Fall Winter 2015 Issue

volta

The sole responsibility for the content of this publication lies with the authors. Its contents do not reflect the opinion of the University Students’ Council of the University of Western Ontario (“USC”). The USC assumes no responsibility or liability for any error, inaccuracy, omission or comment contained in this publication or for any use that may be made of such information by the reader.

table of content 04 CONTRIBUTORS..... The Volta Team 05 LETTER FROM THE EDITORS..... Faustina Setiawan & Marcel Sokalski 06 MAJOR CONTRIBUTORS..... Notable Team Members 07 BEHIND THE SCENES..... An Inside Look Into Volta 08 SPOTLIGHT..... Jules by Juliana Cullen and Mazon Vintage by Alessandra Savoia 10 DOMESTIC ARGENT..... The Kitchen Concept

44 MAXIMO The Rise of Maximalism

16 OCCUPIED..... The Bathroom Editorial 22 TORONTO FASHION WEEK..... An Inside Look Into The Collections 24 TOM* FASHION WEEK..... Toronto Men's Fashion Week: A Week In Review 25 TORONTO FASHION WEEK EXCLUSIVE.....An Interview with Hilary Macmillan 26 MILK MADE..... Horses Boarding 34 RUSSELL SIMMONS: HIP HOP AS A SOCIAL MOVEMENT..... By Savanna Lee

35 MALE MUSICIANS BREAKING STYLE BINARIES..... By Diyana Noory 36 LIQUID METAL... The Beauty Editorial 43 A CAST OF SHADOWS..... By Mackenzie Morison 44 MAXIMO..... The Rise of Maximalism 54 ADVERTISEMENTS..... At The Barre, Fanshawe Driving School 56 THANK YOU..... Social Science Student Donation Fund

volta Editors In Chief Creative Director FASHION DEPARTMENT Fashion Director Head Stylist Stylists CREATIVE DEPARTMENT Creative Advisors Layout Editor Graphic Editor PHOTOGRAPHY & VIDEOGRAPHY DEPARTMENT Head of Photography Editorial Photographers Behind-the-Scenes Photographers Videographers LITERARY DEPARTMENT Literary Editors Writers

EDITORIAL DEPARTMENT Make-Up & Hair Shoot Contributors Models

Social Media Corresponder

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Faustina Setiawan, Marcel Sokalski Claire Henderson Nancy Xu Richard Truong Chelsea Clifford, Laura Robinson, Natalie Tang Pyeong Ha Ryu, Liam McLean, Daniel Yang Krithika Nathan, Rebecca Sneath, Alex Tchornopiski, Richard Truong Faustina Setiawan Olivia Mossuto Tara Magloire Nicole De Khors, Julian Ross Romano, Lenore Li Tara Magloire, Will Burakoff Tara Magloire, Natalie Tang, Adam Ibrahim, Diyana Noory Matt Anderson, Liam McLean Laura Robinson, Mithila Somasundaram Mackenzie Morison, Savanna Lee, Richard Truong, Faustina Setiawan, Marcel Sokalski, Amber Warus, Diyana Noory Adeline Jordon, Natalie Mitchell, Rachael Gibson Caylen Walker, Aesha Nananso, Angie Kovacs, Ashley Wang, Sarah Rifai Caylen Walker, Qiu Tong Guo, Nicholas Fournie, Amelia Ter Brugge, Kalika Postlethwait, Aaliah Frazer, Tomachi Onyewuchi, Pyeong Ha Ryu, Ariana Iuele, Mikahla Iuele Adriana Monachino

VOLTA MAGAZINE

LETTER FROM THE EDITORS

Embodying the definition of 'volta' as a point of dramatic change, Volta's Fall/ Winter'15 issue sees a major change in our brand, with a newly re-vamped logo and a greater focus on critical and sustainable fashion. This issue, we are happy to feature some of Western University's newest fashion entrepreneurs - Juliana Cullen of Jules and Alessandra Savoia of Mazon Vintage - who focus their efforts on up-cycled, ethically-made clothing.

This season, we aimed to produce editorials that push the boundaries of ready-to-wear fashion - from juxtaposing semi-formal wear with a suburban agricultural scene, as seen in our editorial Milk Made, to androgynous men's wear set in a grungy bathroom, as showcased in our men's editorial Occupied. We are continually grateful to our local clothing sponsors - Filthy Rebena, Leslie's on Richmond, and Jordan Stewart - who have helped our publication grow in the past years, as well as our monetary sponsor - the Social Science Student Donation Fund - for the generous contribution and for believing in our publication.

Additionally, we are pleased to announce Claire Henderson as our newest Creative Director. We would also like to thank our wonderfully dedicated team, from stylists to photographers, for all the time and effort they have put into this issue. This year, we have the biggest publication team to date.

Volta strives to continue seeking inspirations from new outlets and we pride ourselves in the amount of talent and team dedication put into each magazine.

We hope you enjoy our Fall/Winter'15 issue.

Your Co-Editors in Chief, Faustina Setiawan & Marcel Sokalski

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MAJOR CONTRIBUTORS

Natalie Lauren Tang: Stylist I’m in my 5th year pursuing a Double Major in Medical Science and Physiology (Honors). I joined Volta because of my interests in styling and photography. I’ve met many creative minds and I love blending our ideas to create something new. I have learned to match pieces that I may not have thought of through other people’s concepts and styles. On the regular, you can catch me exploring and listening to new and upcoming artists of various genres, and also finding new places to visit and photograph.

Krithika Nathan: Creative Advisor I am currently in my third year of Medical Sciences and Psychology. Along with fashion, other passions of mine include music, dance, cooking, and painting. I am basically a cornball. I love to travel and I am such a foodie. This is my first year being part of Volta, and I became part of it so that I can share my creative ideas in the fashion industry. I can’t wait for the day I land my picture on the Time magazine.

Matt Anderson: Videographer I’m a 4th year student in the MOS Finance program. I joined Volta to meet other creative students and as an excuse to spend more time behind the lens. In my spare time, I enjoy travelling (usually with a camera in hand), skiing, and cooking. My interest in cinematography began as a way to showcase my friends and I skiing, and continued to grow from there. You can see more of my videos at: https://vimeo.com/matthewa

Liam McLean: Videographer/Stylist I am currently in my 4th Year of H. Spec. Consumer Behavior (BMOS). I joined Volta to share my passion for graphic design, videography, fashion and streetwear with a broader audience. In my spare time, one might find me dressed in all black. You can see my behind-the-scenes video for this issue's "Occupied" editorial along with my other videos at: https://vimeo.com/user4968997

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BEHIND THE SCENES

COVER Photographer: Julian Ross Romano Model: Tomachi Onyewuchi, Ariana Iuele, Mikahla Iuele, Julian Ross Romano Stylist: Laura Robinson, Natalie Lauren, Chelsea Clifford Make-Up Artist: Natalie Mitchell Shoot Contributor: Angie Kovacs, Caylen Walker Behind-the-Scenes Photographer: Diyana Nooory Videographer: Matt Anderson Clothing Sponsor: Jules by Juliana Cullen

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SPOTLIGHT

D: How did you get started with Jules?

D: Where do you draw inspiration for your designs?

J: I’ve always been sewing. My nanny taught me how to sew. I did a lot of school fashion shows in high school, and did my own clothing sale just taking old vintage clothing and up-cycling it. I do one big sale every summer after stocking up stuff over the school year. This year came along and I don’t have a lot of class, so in September I started putting my clothing in flea markets and it just took off.

J: Morocco is my biggest inspiration right now; two summers ago I went with my mother and my sister, and this summer I got to go again.

The markets out there are the most inspirational things, holy cow.

They’re so colourful. Every pattern is cooler than the next – lots of tapestry, embroidery and coins. I’m really digging the coins right now; I think every one of my jackets has coins on it.

D: Describe your pieces in three words:

D: Why do you feel vintage band shirts in particular are timeless? What makes us nostalgic for old fashion?

J: Hippie, boho, grunge. A lot of doilies, so I wanna say doilies.

J: That was the beginning for me; vintage t-shirts. There’s something with band tees, the grunge aesthetic to them. A lot of the time I wanna say I know all the bands on my t-shirts, but I have a couple in my drawer that I’m like “Ehh.. I don’t actually listen to their music!” They just have the coolest old look to them, and album cover t-shirts I find are just so cool on their own as an art.

D: How do you feel about places like Urban Outfitters capitalizing on the DIY aesthetic?

J: I do shop at Urban – I like their stuff, I find it very overpriced, but they are a big corporation with a big following so it’s no wonder they’re going to jack their prices up. It’s just so ridiculous because that stuff is supposed to be DIY, but they’re selling it for like a hundred dollars.

It defeats the purpose.

D: What do you ultimately want to accomplish with your brand?

J: My ultimate goal is to open my ow store one day. I’m obsessed with markets around the world, so whenever I travel that’s my number one priority – go to every market possible because they’re all so different.

I want to be able to take a year off or so, travel throughout Southeast Asia and go to as many markets as I can to stock up on fabric that I can work with and ship it back home so I can up-cycle it, make it my own, and sell it.

Juliana Cullen

Interviewed by Diyana Noory Jules' hand-sewn, upcycled denim jackets are showcased in this issue's cover.

Founder and Designer of Jules

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INTERVIEWS

D: How did you get started with Mazon Vintage?

A: I’ve always loved thrifting; I love the treasure hunt. Going to school in London, I got a lot more into it because the vintage stores are a lot more affordable here. I realized, hey, I could start an online platform and provide vintage for people at a lower price as well. The name “Mazon” comes from amazonite. The amazonite stone is supposed to represent self-expression, creativity, and self-confidence. I make amazonite bracelets and donate all the proceeds to Labour Behind the Label, which works to promote ethical work conditions in the global garment industry. I really want to get the message out about ethical fashion; I find the conditions of the global garment industry heartbreaking.

D: What does ethical fashion mean to you?

A: When you make a purchase, when you put together an outfit: thinking about all the stakeholders in the situation – who produced this, and what about the environmental impact? I feel like we’re in a state of over-consumption, so just picking valuable pieces that you know are good quality and don’t harm another being or the planet. Another really cool thing to do other than buying clothing is swapping clothing! I don’t know if you’ve heard of Voguabond*?

D: Yes! I was at the London swap on Sunday. What sparked your interest in ethical fashion?

A: Someone sent me a link to a TV series documentary called Sweatshop where they sent fashion bloggers to Cambodia to see what it’s like there, and it was so eye-opening to me. It was just heartbreaking; I always cared about sustainability, but I never realized how much of a negative impact my clothing purchases were making. I encourage everyone to watch that documentary.

The John Oliver segment on fast fashion is amazing too.

D: Tell me about your support for 'Labour Behind the Label'.

A: I mentioned Voguabond earlier. Marlie [co-founder of Voguabond] and I, we did so much research on ethical, sustainable fashion when we were starting it up. I came across Labour Behind the Label then. You can register with them as a business - I donate all the proceeds of the bracelets to them. They support clothing swaps too; they have a huge list of things you can do to get involved with spreading

Alessandra Savoia

Founder of Mazon Vintage the message about ethical fashion, and clothing swaps are one of them.

D: Ultimately, what are your goals for this brand?

A: As of right now, it’s just a side project but who knows where it will go! I know this is a space that I need to be in, and I feel really passionate about spreading the word about ethical fashion. I’m graduating soon, so we’ll see! *Voguabond is an ethical clothing swap event found by Alessandra Savoia and Marlie Goddard

Interviewed by Diyana Noory Visit Mazon Vintage at www.mazonvintage.com

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domestic argent

Creative Advisors: Rebecca Sneath, Alex Tchornopiski Models: Caylen Walker, Qiu Tong Guo Photographer: Lenore Li Behind-the-scenes Photographer: Tara Magloire Stylists: Natalie Tang, Laura Robinson, Claire Henderson Shoot Contributors: Aesha Nananso, Ashley Wang Videographer: Marcel Sokalski

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OCCUPIED Photographer: Tara Magloire Head Stylist: Richard Truong Stylist: Liam McLean, Daniel Yang Videographer: Liam McLean Shoot Contributor: Sarah Rifai Behind-the-Scenes Photographer: Adam Ibrahim

TORONTO FASHION WEEK EXCLUSIVE

THE

COLLECTIONS MATTHEW GALLAGHER Graced by Matthew Gallagher’s spectacular collection, opening night of World MasterCard Toronto Fashion Week's Spring Summer 2016 edition started off with a bang. As one of the most notable Canadian designers in the yearly line-up, Gallagher stays true to his signature style of juxtaposing soft, light colours with stronger silhouettes. This dichotomy creates a refreshing collection that includes intricate weave textures and wonderful pieces that infuse chiffon with structured pastel suits. The collection is an embodiment of the modern individualistic woman – an empowering statement.

MALORIE URBANOVITCH Malorie Urbanovitch’s collection consists of raw edges, beautiful silks and pastel knits. Urbanovitch’s collection is orderly but simultaneously chaotic, creating a feeling of contradiction that sets it apart. The tone of the collection moves from fun and light to professional and sleek.

Starting with knit pieces and later introducing wide leg trousers and button down blouses, and closing with the stunning floor length orange dress, the collection is a journey that represents the diversity of the modern woman’s wardrobe.

TATSUAKI A show that brings you on an adventure, a fast forward to Summer 2016, its easy to get lost in the bright colours filling the show.

Tatsuaki showed us a different take on fashion than what is seen in North America. Starting the show off on a rather dark note, Tatsuaki quickly spun the tone around with quick upbeat tunes and anything but dull coloured looks. From lace, to box cuts, the collection was not short of variety. The international spunk reminds us to include a pop of couleur when we’re done our hibernation this winter.

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HONG KIYOUNG Hong Kiyong’s World Master Toronto Fashion Week debut was particularly impressive. Kiyong's collection has a punk vibe with sporty undertones. The collection includes everything from androgynous shaped rompers and suits to knee length turtleneck dresses accessorized with harnesses. Detailed with graphic patches, edgy chokers and safety pins, this collection has an interesting balance and leaves the audience wondering what look Kiyong will put on the runway next. Hong Kiyong’s collection focuses on gender neutrality, beautifully reflecting the changing nature of fashion in today’s society. Needless to say we will be keeping an eye out for what comes next from this emerging designer.

3.PARADIS 3.PARADIS was not only a fashion show, but also a unique experience for the audience. The majority of the collection includes black and white tones, with single horizontal red lines across certain pieces as the only pops of colour. The collection is minimalistic, complementing the dystopian ambience of the show. Monochromatic looks accented with medical style oxygen masks broke convention and resonated with the audience. 3.PARADIS embodies the values of today's youth, ignoring traditional ideas and informing a generation that will change the fashion industry. Yet again, this designer duo of long-time friends, has created an extremely impressive collection.

NARCES Nikki Wirthensohn Yassemi, NARCES' Designer and Creative Director, swoons the audience with a romantic collection of wispy dresses with delicate pastel and metallic detailing. The Spring Summer 2016 bridal collection is the epitome of the classic white gown with a twist. The show firstly featured their more day-to-day gowns before transitioning seamlessly to their bridal wear. The most striking element of the collection was perhaps the intricate floral petals beautifully sewn or embroidered on to each dress, giving them a more individualistic ruffled silhouette.

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KOLLAR CLOTHING In what can only be described as one of the most fascinating shows this season, KOLLAR Clothing's SS'16 collection was nothing short of spectacular. Its presentation started with six male models sitting frozen in a make-shift open-concept 'room'. As the lights slowly turn on, each of them rose to walk the runway one by one in perfect synchronization to the music. Their collection consisted of ready-to-wear androgynous pieces that were effortlessly layered. The unique dramatization of the show, along with the complementary neutral color scheme, made for a successful collection.

Reviewed by Amber Warus, Faustina Setiawan and Marcel Sokalski (Photo Credits: George Pimmentel / Getty Images)

A Week In Review L to R: Kenneth Barlis, Atelier Guarin, Hip & Bone

The summer preceding World MasterCard Toronto Fashion Week, Toronto Men’s* Fashion Week (TOM*) celebrated Canadian and international designers based in Toronto. The event spanned for three days covering well established designers from Christopher Bates to new up-and-coming designers.

VOLTA was pleased to be invited to see the Spring/Summer 2016 collection of Atelier Guarin, Hip & Bone, and Kenneth Barlis.

Atelier Guarin was a strong start to the TOM* Fashion Week.

Their collection featured minimalistic and monochromatic tones with a classic color scheme of solid white, blue, and black. The shapes were boxy, playing with the sports-luxury trend with an incorporation of mesh. In addition, structured garments were interestingly juxtaposed with capes and long, oversized coats draped around the shoulders. This juxtaposition creates movement, which ultimately illustrates a strong yet elegant and luxurious line.

powerfully edgy collection. The line featured a timeless theme of oversized items – from t-shirts and long sleeves to hoodies.

Hip & Bone perfectly elevated the showcased outfits with their bomber jackets by utilizing textured materials, such as leather, and challenging the conventional hip-cut bombers with the introduction of their long-lined jackets. Finally, the grand finale featured a futuristic-matrix long coat with silver hardware.

Ultimately, Hip & Bone successfully infused high fashion details into their ready-to-wear pieces.

Finally, Kenneth Barlis had an interesting take on the classic floral design for spring and summer, introducing a collection that featured monochromatic, vivid floral suits. In addition, Barlis continued the trend of color blocking by incorporating bright solid colors in all of his pieces. The Kenneth Barlis SS’16 line accurately captured the essence of spring, the age of rebirth.

Continuing with the sportswear trend, Hip & Bone cleverly merged luxurious material with relaxed silhouettes for a

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As reviewed by Richard Truong (Photo Credits: TOM* website, www.tomfw.com)

An interview with

TORONTO FASHION WEEK FEATURED

HILARY MACMILLAN

As one of the most prominent returning designers to World MasterCard Toronto Fashion Week, Hilary Macmillan presented a kaleidoscopic Spring Summer collection featuring peacock-inspired pieces with unique silhouettes. Volta's Co-Editors in Chief had the pleasure of meeting with the designer after the collection's runway debut.

How did this season's collection change and progress from the previous one?

HM: Well, last collection I used a lot of dark colours and in this collection I used a lot of bright colours, so I guess that’s a huge change for me. Last season I also used a lot of black and whites, while there are no black and whites this season which I’ve never done before… so that was kind of a big change.

Any major tailoring cuts that you've incorporated this year, which you hadn’t tried previously?

HM: Well, I’ve never done anything with a lot of cleavage, so that was kind of new for me, I’m usually more conservative in that sense, this time around it’s a little more “sexier” I guess?

There was a lot of peacock inspired patterns throughout the collection, what was the motivation behind that?

HM: Yeah, I’m obsessed. The pattern I actually bought when I was in Africa while volunteering at a children’s home. We went to a bunch of the markets during our free time, and that’s when I saw the fabric and kind of just fell in love with it, I bought all that I could…then the 70’s theme just kind of blended in later on.

Finally, what is a pivotal moment in your career and how did it change you as a designer?

HM: You guys ask some hard questions! (laughs) So I guess it was when I tried out for the first year of TFI’s Final Label, which is a designer competition in Toronto, and I thought I was like the greatest thing since sliced bread. I got dismissed after the first round. I basically got feedback that I needed to improve on “this and this and this” and that really shifted my thought process. Getting constructive criticism from fashion industry insiders is definitely important so then I kind of just changed my strategy a bit more.

(Photo Credits: George Pimmentel / Getty Images)

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Voyage Long Blouse, Leslie's, $98 Zipper Skirt (worn underneath), Leslie's, $75 Velvet Thigh High Boots, Stylist's Own

MILK MADE Fashion Director: Nancy Xu Model: Amelia Ter Brugge Photographer: Nicole De Khors Behind-the-Scenes Photographer: Tara Magloire

Turtleneck Sweater, Stylist's Own Green Lace Romper, Jordan Stewart, $115 Cannon Coat in Black, Jordan Stewart, $238

Lyla Crop Top, Jordan Stewart, $228

Lyla Crop Top, Jordan Stewart, $228 Scarf, Stylist's Own

Suede Dress, Jordan Stewart, $99 Fringe Vest, Jordan Stewart. $85

Red Beanie, Stylist's Own Kirin Wrap Scarf, Leslie's, $60, For Love&Lemons Lace Top, Jordan Stewart, $160 Love&Lemons Lace Skirt, Jordan Stewart, $240

Russell Simmons: Hip Hop As a Social Movement and What It All Might Have To Do With Me

by Savanna Lee

I’m definitely happy to be able to merge my academics with my passion. I love hip-hop and I love ideas that make a difference. In receiving the outline for a paper due for my class, Social Movements and Media, I examined how I could make it into something that matters to me.

Hip-hop, as a social movement, can be seen as a reinforcement of ideas belonging to the pre-existing communication network that began in the ‘60s and ‘70s – the “Black Power Movement”. The movement began to establish equality, unity and signify the struggle that black people faced under white supremacy.

The Black Power Movement encouraged black citizens to embrace their race and colour, and examine the impact of institutionalized racism. Ultimately, the goal of the Black Power Movement was to end racism entirely.

Russell Simmons, a prominent figure associated with the movement, experienced discrimination while living in New York with his family. In his book Life & Def: Sex, Drugs, Money and God, he writes, “When we moved onto our block there was one white family left.

They were directly across the street from us, and I guess my family was the last straw… It was a phenomenon typical of the 60’s and 70’s when whites pursued a policy of self-segregation. The idea that blacks could afford to live next to them

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sent them running like roaches with the lights on” (Simmons 15).

He also mentions how his father played a key role in shaping his current political views: “my father was very vocal about discrimination in New York and was involved with many civil rights organizations. His views about black empowerment and social activism played a big part in shaping how I view the world to this day” (12).

Through creating Def Jam Records, Public Enemy was able to make waves in society through the use of politically charged lyrics that challenged the principles held my mainstream America. In 1988, they released Party For Your Right to Fight, a single in which their political connotations are evident. The lyrics are as follows: “Power, equality/And we’re out to get it/This party started back in 66/ With a pro-black radical mix” (0:18-0:27).

Simmons introduced a rap group that remains a voice for Black America: fighting for political and nationalist change, and spreading the ideas of hip-hop.

In addition to shaping political views, hip-hop has demonstrated a powerful influence on the fashion world. Simmons expresses this when he says: “Hip-hop never had dress-up clothes until right about when Tommy Hilfiger started to get real visible, about 1990… Tommy’s

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designers then began changing some of the patterns and made the logos bigger to cater to the urban market…

Then Grand Puba of Brand, Nubian, a New York group influenced by the Fiver Percent Nation, rhymed on record about ‘Tommy Hil’ and wearing a pink gold sweater and oxford shirts. Urban sportswear began to evolve from Lee jeans and Adidas sweat suits into Polo by Ralph Lauren and Tommy jeans” (154).

[Upon realizing the popularity and rapid growth of the movement, popular clothing brands began to market the fashion trends promoted by the hip-hop world.]

Hip-hop can be seen as many things: a genre of music, a culture, an attitude or lifestyle; I choose to examine it as a movement that has changed the way that I live today.

Russell Simmons and Public Enemy, in particular, played a key role in the hip-hop movement, and their synonymous contributions will always be at the heart of the hip-hop movement—a modern movement promoting social change. p

To read the complete version of this article, visit Savanna’s blog: https://savnotsavage.wordpress.com/ (Image: WordPress)

MUSICIANS AND

BREAKING BINARIES

by Diyana Noory

Art is a platform for innovation and inclusiveness.

“Art” encompasses many different mediums, with two of its most popular forms being music and fashion. When these two collide, the changes they bring about can be absolutely ground breaking. Over the past century, musicians such as Mick Jagger, Prince, David Bowie, and Madonna have chipped away at gender norms that are typically enforced by the media through their art, clothing, and personas. Today, some of the most popular names in the entertainment industry carry on their legacy. Among the most influential of today’s gender-bending artists are Kanye West, Young Thug, Jaden Smith, and Harry Styles. Until recently, the idea of men in skirts has been uncommon in the world of mainstream men’s fashion. The aforementioned artists, however, ignore these archaic gender norms.

Kanye famously wore a pleated leather Givenchy skirt at a Watch the Throne tour show in 2011, and at the 12/12/12 Hurricane Sandy concert. During his 2014 Coachella performance, he rocked a women's Céline blouse. He was also one of the first to introduce skinny jeans to streetwear dressing. Hip-hop has been known to be a notoriously patriarchal and homophobic space, but Kanye is part of a new wave of rappers who express liberal views through his clothing.

Young Thug's style is even more eccentric; this year he was featured in Dazed magazine in a floral lace Gucci top and a Molly Goddard sheer tulle dress. Kanye and Young Thug’s fashion choices have sparked all sorts of criticism from both fans and peers. Lord Jamar, a fellow rapper, complained in a 2013 interview that Kanye’s skirt had “no place in hip-hop” and dropped a diss track titled “Lift Up Your Skirt,” while being known to attack Young Thug’s masculinity on more than one occasion. However, Lord Jamar could not be more wrong: hip-hop is about breaking boundaries, rebellion, and expression.

As such, it is the perfect platform for artists like Kanye and Young Thug to bring about social change with fashion.

Like Kanye and Young Thug, Jaden Smith actively breaks gender norms through his clothing and is arguably more up front about it.

Jaden has worn a dress on the streets, to prom, and to Coachella, accessorizing freely in complement. He cheekily posted a selfie in a Topshop dress captioned “Went To TopShop To Buy Some Girl Clothes, I Mean "Clothes" [sic]”. Jaden sets himself apart from the majority of teen males by being completely secure in his sartorial choices in relation to his gender identity, and does not fear people speculating about his sexuality due to stereotypes.

In the world of pop music, Harry Styles encourages gender neutrality through his androgynous fashion choices and usage of gender-neutral pronouns, as noted when he discusses his dating preferences and explains song lyrics. He rocks women’s collection skinny jeans with sheer or silk tops; loud patterns and floral prints; and fabulous Saint Laurent boots in textures like metallic pink leather and silver glitter, to name a few. He even adorns his painted fingers with rings, and crowns his long locks with flowers on stage. While rock stars before him have expressed their frustration with societal norms through anger, Harry’s trademark expression is “all the love” as opposed to “screw everything.” He encourages self-love, love for each other, and equality in love.

Through his fashion choices, he spreads the message that there are no rules as to what you “should” wear depending on your gender (or lack thereof).

One will find that while high fashion has the tendency to be fluid and adventurous, mainstream brand advertising tends to encourage binary thinking and enforces rigid ideas of what constitutes masculinity and femininity. Gender norms are a social construct; people are taught that they are either a man or a woman, and that they must conform to the roles assigned them.

It's easy for some to dismiss the above artists’ gender bending tendencies through fashion as insignificant, but the fact that they can comfortably express themselves in a world where hyper masculinity is so heavily encouraged through the media ought to be celebrated. p (Image: Dazed Magazine, SplashNews.com, WireImage - Daily Mail)

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D I U Q I L L A T E M Fashion Director: Nancy Xu Creative Advisor: Krithika Nathan Models: Kalika Postlethwait, Aaliah Frazer Photographer: Will Burakoff Make-up Artist: Adeline Jordon Behind-the-Scenes Photographer: Natalie Tang Videographer: Liam McLean, Matt Anderson

A Cast of

Shadows

: An Exhibition Critique A Cast of Shadows, a collection of works by John Koyounian displayed at the Art Gallery of Lambeth, uses art to take a deeper look into the human psyche. Koyounian’s paintings depict moments of the everyday, but with a twist. Over the images exist white, contour lines that reveal more to the scene, such as a social anxiety or intense emotion. The second image is of one that alludes to a deeper insight into the first one that cannot be identified in the physical world.

Koyounian’s work incorporates the premise of Plato’s Cave, which is a philosophical metaphor and story presented by Socrates. In the story, a group of people face a wall where shadows are being projected from things passing a fire. The people begin to give names to these shadows, and the shadows are as close as the people get to viewing reality.

Similarly, the inclusion of contour lines plays with the idea that the projections are shadows of our inner psyche. Their existence represents subconscious symbols, and when projected upon reality tell a different story. The Mason’s Apprentice, for example, shows two people sitting on a couch, but with a concrete wall being built between them. The Wedge is another painting that shows two girls walking alongside one another while a white, contour wedge is being hammered between them. However, not all of Koyounian’s paintings are easy to interpret. His paintings leave room for the viewer to construct his or her own narrative. An acrylic painting of a woman holding an alarm clock has a projected image of feet stomping on her.

Another painting zooms in on one individual whispering in another’s ear, and the contour lines are merely swirls drawn around the scene. Further, the compositions of the paintings are done in a way that intentionally hides faces. According to Koyounian in his artist statement, this is done to develop a more universal experience. Since viewers are not able to identify

individual faces they can instead identify themselves, and construct a narrative through personal experiences.

Koyounian further explains in his artist statement “we are all creatures of our experience and observations,” and that it is these experiences that shape our perception of events. “It is in the moment of mediation that I find myself exploring those experiences in a visual manner. However, there is a grey line between events and our perception of them. In the interior of our psyche we can at times infer events that conflict with our rational experiences, and it is those projected thoughts that I am exploring.”

Cast of Shadows challenges his viewers by encouraging them to reinterpret scenes. Through his strong use of narrative and poetic device Koyounian’s work reflects upon social conventions and thought: “My work focuses on the notion that we have thoughts that come forward in our mind and recede, not unlike a song which we cannot shake, whose chorus may haunt and demand your attention at the strangest of times.”

by Mackenzie Morison

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VOLTA: [vohl-tuh, vol-; It. vawl-tah] In

literature, the volta, also referred to as the turn, is the shift or point of dramatic change.

FASHION AND LIFESTYLE SOCIETY