Style spotlight

from Vision Now November 2021

by Vision Now

Product profile

STYLE SPOTLIGHT Spirited showcase at Silmo

Minamoto by Charmant

JF Rey ladies’ eyewear Silent Noise collection by Fleye Copenhagen

By Joan Grady

Spirits soared and the sun shone for the opening days of Silmo Paris 2021. After an interlude without eyewear shows due to the pandemic, exhibitors and visitors were delighted to gather again to meet and greet friends and business associates. Fewer exhibitors and visitors did not supress the buoyant atmosphere that prevailed. Designers and companies utilised the hiatus to regroup and rethink how they would proceed for the future, given the many changes endured during the pandemic.

Creativity and innovation were seemingly not affected during lockdowns and confinements, as new launches brought a multitude of dynamic eyewear designs in elegant materials, ravishing colours and superb quality. A minimalistic mood prevailed in optical designs – while in sunglasses, more elaborate, voluminous creations were embraced. Tortoiseshell continues to be much loved in eyewear design, and its beauty, timelessness and elegance reigned with new vibrant, uplifting colourful interpretations on display.

Two colours not usually associated in eyewear – red and green – were featured in many collections. With a reputation for being ‘difficult’ shades to wear on the face, doubts about wearability were set aside and colour modifications included luminous intonations, harmonious finishes and two-tone hues.

MINIMAL TO MAXI SHAPES Thomas Lafont at Lafont Paris was on an effervescent creative roll during lockdowns, and he has created ‘new out of the old’ with superb frames crafted from upcycled acetate in vivid colours. Lafont has also launched a range of eco-friendly frames for children in upcycled acetate. In addition, Lafont’s beautiful optical frames combine sleek shaping, streamlined curves and superb colours – as seen in Jula. A true French product, the frames are crafted in France.

Nowadays, many people express an interest to ‘return to their roots’, particularly with the emergence from the pandemic. In Japan, the word for ‘origin’ is Minamoto. Charmant, whose birthplace is the Japanese city of Sabae, was inspired

by this history to create the Minamoto eyewear collection, which made its debut at Silmo. Pure titanium is moulded into timeless, minimalistic frames with amazing precision and meticulous engraving. Even the glass cases reflect Japanese traditions being individually made with handcrafted washi paper.

Japanese acetate and expertise united in Salt Optics’ flattering, classically round shape with Lewis in Antique Leaves. Contemporary styling is a trademark of the Californian brand that captures spectacle traditions with modern embellishments.

Fleye Copenhagen celebrated the Danish silent movie actress Asta Nielsen, a leading lady of the cinema circa 1910, with its collection named Silent Noise. Frames for men and women are slim and trim, with powerful shapes that acknowledge the strong, expressive character of the Danish movie diva.

JF Rey played with oversize shapes in colourful acetate, with its JF Rey Women Concept collection. The Marseille-based French label features delicious combinations in crystalline and opaque colours, a delightful ode to graphics and pop art.

SUNGLASS SYMPHONIES Creating sun specs appears to bring out deeply rooted passions and ideas for designers. With sunglasses there is playfulness, a bit of fantasy, originality and frequently avant-garde composition. Eva Gaume, who inherited the mantle at Emmanuelle Khanh (EK), totally understands the charisma of the designer.

EK believed that spectacle frames, particularly for women, should be bold, expressive and sophisticated. Eva’s newest interpretations on show included the essence of the EK spirit of adventure, quality, comfort and innovative style. Audrey, with its unconventional, colourful pattern on glossy acetate is revitalising and eye-catching.

Luca Gnecchi Ruscone’s latest collection for LGR in Italy draws on his love of Africa, and the atmospheres and nuances of the African deserts that he knows so well. Frames in the Palmerie Collection are sculpted from superb quality 10mm thick Italian acetates, with lenses characterised by a light-coloured gradient. Inside the frame temples, precise laser engraved symbols feature running giraffes and LGR’s signature tag: ‘Inspired by Africa, handmade in Italy’.

For edgy, super cool looks with Big Apple flair, Woow eyewear traversed the Atlantic and captured the vitality, optimism and vibrancy of New York City with its showcase of sunglasses in buoyant colours. Super Rock seizes the eclectic vibes of the city with a voluminous shape in glossy red with tortoise accents.

FREE SPIRITS French eyewear designer Jeremy Tarian has always taken an individualistic approach to frames. Designed in Paris and handcrafted in the Jura region, Tarian Eyewear embodies timeless traditions. His latest collection is based on the beauty and variety of flowers. Joy is the theme with distinctive shapes and complementary colours. The Flower collection includes both optical and sunglass designs for men and women.

Expressive, fun, stylish and with bold shapes, Struktur Eyewear is crafted in Normandy with superior quality. The Dreamcatcher frame in eye-catching Turtle Beach tortoiseshell is among the charismatic designs available for men and women. Also in Paris was Krom Eyewear, an independent brand from the Alsace region of France, where the frames are crafted. The unique designs are light and airy, with inspiration from filigree jewellery concepts that are a pleasure to wear.

Beautiful frames deserve fine care and protection, and why not a bit of merriment as well? Any Di from Germany creates unique eyeglass case covers with animals, fruits and even tennis balls. Her latest collection includes a sleek case with a pair of specs on the front. The cases not only protect the frames, but are accessories in themselves.

For independent opticians, Silmo 2021 was the ideal opportunity to rediscover the buzz and bustle of exploring collections. The event was decisive and upbeat for creative eyewear platforms, and a positive endorsement for the future of imaginative spectacle designs and their artistic innovators.