I S S U E N O. 3
Australia’s Champagne Magazine
Chalked Up! The Greatness of
Champagne’s Chardonnay
WINE CRISTAL 2012 THIÉNOT X PENFOLDS APOLLONIS THE PHILOSOPHY OF LEES WHEN BURGUNDY COMES TO CHAMPAGNE VINE THE CÔTE DES BLANCS YIELDING CHAMPAGNE HARVEST 2019 REPORT PEOPLE JEAN-JACQUES PEYRE FROM PALMER & CO. PLACE WHERE TO DRINK CHAMPAGNE: PENFOLDS MAGILL ESTATE, LA GARE RESTAURANT, LE RECOMMANDÉ, LE GARDE CHAMPETRE
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King of White The Greatness of Champagne's Chardonnay
Champagne may be celebrated as a blend of three great varietals, but in the case of chardonnay, it has the ability to stand alone like no other. Blanc de blancs can be the freshest and most elegant of all champagnes, wonderfully transparent of the soil on which it’s grown and providing drinkers with a real taste of Champagne. Award-winning author, Kaaren Palmer, takes a closer look at Champagne’s king of white grapes. WORDS BY
Kaaren Palmer, adapted from her book: ‘Champagne: A Tasting Journey’ P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y Victor Pugatschew
Chardonnay wines from Champagne present a great cache of attributes. From the crystalline purity of chalk and citrus associated with the Côte des Blancs, to the richer and rounder profile of the Montagne de Reims, and more characterful chardonnays of the Aube, it is an adaptable grape with an almost chameleonlike ability to express itself through its terroir rather than as itself. Therefore, when grown in different areas of Champagne, and blended, it appears more than one-dimensional. Blended with wine made from pinot noir or meunier, it adds lift and elegance. Alone, it can be sharp or thin when young, but becomes rich and buttery with age. It can hold a red wine drinker’s interest like no other white grape because of its weighty feel in the mouth so that its acidity is less noticeable, except as palate length. With age, chardonnay’s palate length becomes longer and the aromas and flavours rich and nutty.
In Champagne, plantings of chardonnay occur in areas where the subsoil suits its requirement for good drainage. That subsoil is usually chalky, but other well-drained slopes where the microclimate is suitable include eastfacing slopes that catch the morning sun, and the calcareous slopes of southern Champagne. As there is no significant topographical barrier between Champagne and the sea, moderating oceanic influences help ameliorate what is usually a harsh climate for grapes.
cru vineyards of the Côte – south of the Congy area to the Sézannais, the Vitryat area south-east of Châlonsen-Champagne, and at Montgueux north-west of Troyes, albeit with a subsoil of a different type of chalk, from an older geological era. Chardonnay tolerates cold and buds early when compared to other vines in Champagne’s relatively short growing season. The vines mature quickly and early, when there is a risk of spring frost damage to tender young shoots. The young yellowygreen leaves of chardonnay vines are as if traversed by cobwebs, with small tan bumps on the underside. Two thick veins radiate from each leaf’s stem, either side of the centre. The white buds have fluffy, rosy edges. The grapes themselves are small and spherical, loosely packed
“It can hold a red wine drinker’s interest like no other white grape…”
The Côte des Blancs, its topsoil visibly chalky white, is south of Epernay and perpendicular to the Marne. It is a famous Champagne viticultural area for good reason, but outcrops of chalky subsoils are scattered further than the continuous grand and premier
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Take a Walk on the
White Side
Stave off the heat this summer with our recommendations for some of the best blanc de blancs available now. From light and bright to mouth-filling creaminess and salivating minerality, these champagnes will quench your summer thirst. Sara Underdown P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y Jack Turner WORDS BY
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Returning to Craftsmanship
Cristal 2012
Louis Roederer’s chef de cave, Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon, in Adelaide earlier this year.
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On the year of his 20th Anniversary as chef de cave of Champagne Louis Roederer, Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon has reached another epic milestone in his environmental quest with the release of Cristal 2012. During his recent trip to Australia, he spoke openly about how climate change challenges are pushing the industry to return to the era of craftsmanship. Sara Underdown P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y Wade Whitington WORDS BY
2019 marks 20 years since JeanBaptiste Lécaillon became chef de cave of Louis Roederer. It’s a long time, but longevity is not uncommon for talented chefs de cave of Champagne’s finest houses. It would be easy to grow stale, bored, and disengaged along the way, but not if you’re Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon, a man whose passion grows steadily with each passing year. It’s easy to see why. Lécaillon is much, much more than a winemaker. He’s a
grand philosopher – and maestro – of the industry’s trajectory for environmental change. In his 20 years as chef de cave, Lécaillon has achieved a meaningful legacy, earning Louis Roederer a unique status as the region’s largest organically certified producer. A meagre two percent of all vineyards across the 34,000 hectares belonging to the Champagne appellation are certified organic. Louis Roederer owns almost 20 percent of these,
“And as Chair of the Technical Committee for Champagne’s powerful trade association, he has presided over a series of radical shake-ups of the industry…”
accounting for 122 out of 240 estate owned hectares. Ten hectares are certified biodynamic. And as Chair of the Technical Committee for Champagne’s powerful trade association, the Comité Champagne, he has presided over a series of radical shake-ups of the industry, pushing toward an uncompromising commitment to the environment. In 2018, recommendations put forward by the committee saw houses and growers stand together on uncommon ground; agreeing to eradicate herbicides by 2025 and reach 100% environmental certification by 2030. Professionally, these are significant achievements. But for someone like Lécaillon, they are also deeply personal. The release of Cristal 2012, in early 2020, will be the first to
Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon, in Adelaide, speaking about Cristal 2012.
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Tour de Force
WINE
Thiénot X Penfolds When two great wine brands come together, anything can happen. The unlikely collaboration between Thiénot X Penfolds has the potential to change the future for champagne across more challenging markets. With their eye on China, this could be the one thing that penetrates the impenetrable. Sara Underdown P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y Leif Carlsson WORDS BY
It’s the eve of Penfolds’ anniversary extravaganza in Adelaide to commemorate 175 years of winemaking by one of Australia’s oldest wine brands. Unusually, champagne will take some prominence on the night, a nod to a new era of partnership with one of Champagne’s most respected and youngest houses, Thiénot. Stanislas Thiénot, Managing Director of the house, and Peter Gago, Penfolds’ Chief Winemaker, have set aside the afternoon to meet with me and talk about their collaboration. In 2019, they took the wine world by surprise with the release of a brandnew champagne, a 2012 vintage, under the auspices of Thiénot X Penfolds. The gold and red label cast against a jet-black bottle is as audacious as the idea of one of Australia’s biggest and oldest wine brands making their own champagne. Champagne, by virtue of its UNESCO heritage listed status, is the most protected wine-producing region in the world. It was ambitious, to say the least, to seek industry approval for the
partnership. On that, both men agree that it has always been their intention to protect the integrity of Champagne above any business proposition. “The CIVC [Comité Interprofessionnel du vin de Champagne] says we did it properly from the start,” says Thiénot about the industry’s staunchly protective trade and regulatory body. "It was important for us to do it transparently with the CIVC and it was important to Peter and Penfolds to do it right. It’s a project that has never existed in Champagne before.” Gago adds that whilst it was a longshot, the proposal presented some convincing win-win opportunities for the greater good of champagne wine, in addition to their business objectives.
“The CIVC says we did it properly from the start…”
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“It could be that the CIVC thinks that by using Penfolds, Champagne can enter into new markets,” he says.
By this, Gago refers to China, which has proven difficult for champagne to crack into despite growing
affluence. Champagne is considered by many producers as a cause not yet worth fighting for in China, at least for now, with sales held back almost indefinitely by consumers’ drinking habits. In 2018, a paltry 4.7 million bottles were shipped to the Chinese triangle comprising mainland China, Hong Kong and Taiwan. Penfolds, on the other hand, couldn’t be more popular, with China accounting for half of its total earnings across Asia. Even at this early stage in the relationship, there are signs that the collaboration could be getting through to China. “People [in China] are buying it, including a lot of millennial Chinese,” says Gago. “In terms of a win for champagne, you’re getting Chinese and you’re getting millennials…it’s tick, tick.” Gago gives the example of a Penfolds dinner he attended in China with wealthy business people. Guests were stunned, to say the least, at being handed a glass of champagne on arrival. When they heard it was a Penfolds champagne, they were willing to give it a go.
Top: Penfolds' Chief Winemaker, Peter Gago, with Managing Director of Thiénot, Stanislas Thienot. Bottom: Thiénot X Penfolds Chardonnay Pinot Noir Cuvée 2012.
“People went to a Penfolds dinner to drink red wine, but also drank champagne. By the end of the night it was ‘can I have another glass please’.”
has the Penfolds touch, according to Gago. It employs French oak barriques used to mature Penfolds’ premium Yattarna chardonnay, to house the liqueur d’expédition. And whilst the use of Yattarna barriques may represent the smallest of touches, Gago says it’s the first toe in the water.
“The potential of champagne’s reach into China via the Thiénot X Penfolds brand has been realised by many in the industry…”
The potential of champagne’s reach into China via the Thiénot X Penfolds brand has been realised by many in the industry, attracting support from the corporates behind Champagne’s most important houses who see it as a good thing. Beyond China, the acceptance of the partnership has been amazing, according to Gago and Thiénot, who say that in America, and even around France, people have embraced the project. Producing a top quality vintage champagne has been essential in winning over the hearts and palates of would-be critics.
The inaugural release from Thiénot X Penfolds comes from the generous 2012 vintage. It is a 50/50 blend of pinot noir and chardonnay and
“Originally, I thought it would be lovely for Penfolds to buy a little vineyard over there [in Champagne],” says Gago about plans to strengthen their connection to the project. “I am now totally aware of the dynamics. Stanislas’ father was a broker of vineyards, and a very successful one, but it’s not easy, there’s a queue.” Whilst land ownership may not be an option for Penfolds, they have found other ways of getting Australia’s fingerprint on the champagne. Gago came together with the team at Thiénot recently, for harvest, but also when composing the blend(s)
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Arrivals Summer 2019
Summer’s good-time vibes and lazy days make champagne a necessary accompaniment to the holiday season. This year, champagne producers offer us a mixture of limited releases, special formats and some lovely fresh stock to get the party going. G.H. Mumm Good news for those lucky enough to have tried Mumm’s superb and exclusive RSRV range. Historically, reserved only for ‘friends of the house’, Mumm will release its Blanc be Blancs for the first time to selected retailers. The delicate and elegant 2013 vintage, which is the latest incarnation from the range, will be the first available. Mumm’s RSRV Blanc de Noirs 2009 will remain reserved for friends only…at least for now.
Perrier-Jouët The ethereal Belle Epoque from Perrier-Jouët will delight us again with the release of the 2012 vintage soon, moving on from 2011. In other news, all non-vintage cuvées will switch to a new bottle shape which was launched last year, for the Blason Rosé NV.
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Charles Heidsieck and Piper-Heidsieck It has taken some time, but the wait is worth it. Charles Heidsieck’s beautifully fresh 2006 vintage will finally be released in January 2020 whilst PiperHeidsieck’s Rare will move on from the current 2002 vintage to the 2006 vintage a month later, in February.
Bollinger The fanfare surrounding Bollinger’s La Grande Année 2008 may be far from over, but there is another release likely to cause just as much interest. Bollinger’s 007 Limited Edition Millésimé 2011, which has just hit our shores, celebrates their 40-year partnership with the James Bond series. Unusually, it is made entirely from pinot noir, taken from Aÿ.
Pierre Paillard
Bibendum Portfolio
Bouzy grower-producer, Pierre Paillard, has shipped a new allocation of their racy and rich cuvées to Australia just in time for summer. New stock includes: Les Parcelles (Base 2014), Les Maillerettes Blanc de Noirs 2014, Les Mottelettes Blanc de Blancs 2014 and La Grande Récolte 2008.
A new instalment from some of Champagne’s finest growers has arrived: Egly-Ouriet, Jacques Selosse, Agrapart, Larmandier-Bernier and Laherte Frères. But be quick!
Laurent-Perrier Some exciting developments are afoot at Laurent-Perrier, and it’s not just the appointment of new star chef de cave, Dominique Demarville, who vacated his role at Veuve Clicquot earlier this year. Following the roll-out of Millésimé 2008, the house has also released a brut nature, although it won’t be available in Australia just yet. And for the first time, the house has made available its esteemed Cuvée Rosé in a jéroboam format (3L) in the same iconic shape. Only 10 bottles have been allocated to Australia this year with some still available through online retailer, Emperor Champagne. According to Brand Ambassador, Caroline Desaulle, there’s something extra special about Cuvée Rosé in jéroboam; it’s fresher, finer and more complex.
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Harvest
2019
After the bumper 2018 harvest, 2019 had a lot to live up to. Champagne journalist and author, Caroline Henry, reports back from this year’s difficult harvest, with early results indicating it could be one of the best this decade.
Caroline Henry P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y Tyson Stelzer WORDS BY
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Left: Pickers at Chigney-les-Roses during harvest, 2019. Right Top: Antoine Roland-Billecart inspects chardonnay grapes at Billecart-Salmon’s press house. Right Bottom: Pressing at Champagne Fleury.
After the rotten 2017 vintage, and the diluted 2018, 2019 has been hailed by many as the harvest of the decade. It may be a little early to make these statements yet, but after a complicated growing season the harvest delivered beyond expectations both in terms of quality and quantity. Climate change dominated the 2019 growing season, testing winegrowers’ patience and resilience. The last week of February was unusually balmy, with temperatures up to 20°C. Winter returned at the beginning of March, but the early heat boosted the powdery mildew virus, especially among chardonnay vines in the Côte des Blancs. Spring frosts added to the woes of the Côte des Blancs growers in April and May, while summer saw grapes withering on
the vines all over the region when temperatures soared to 42.9°C. Nevertheless, the weather settled as harvest approached, and the cool nights and more moderate temperatures provided ideal conditions for grapes to ripen. Sugar levels rose rapidly at the end
According to Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon, cellar master at Louis Roederer, “The 2019 harvest surpassed all expectations both in terms of quality and quantity but, once again this year, the key was to pick at the right time.” This comment may have been inspired by growers precipitating to open press centres in early September, after sugar levels rose dramatically at the end of August. However, grapes did not reach phenolic ripeness at 10 or even 10.5% potential alcohol. Dominique Leboeuf, Director of the Station Oenotechnique de la Champagne, confirmed that the sensation of ripeness only occurred above 10.6% alcohol, adding that for him, the ideal picking window was between
“Climate change dominated the 2019 growing season, testing winegrowers’ patience and resilience.” of August, but at the same time a good level of acidity remained. Gentle rain in late August, and heavy morning dew during harvest, further increased the bunch weight without diluting the flavours.
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