VINE & BUBBLE Magazine Issue No. 2

M

is for Meunier

WINE THE BEAUTY OF SELF-DESTRUCTION  LABEL LEADERS  CHAMPAGNE ARRIVALS  CHALLENGING THE RULES VINE CHANGING SEASONS: A YEAR IN CHAMPAGNE  PROFILING AMBONNAY  CLIMATE CHANGE PEOPLE A HISTORY OF THE VIN DE CHAMPAGNE AWARDS  TRADE RELATIONS: SALLY MCGILL & MATTHEW WALLACE PLACE HOW TO EXPERIENCE CHAMPAGNE LIKE A LOCAL  WHERE TO DRINK CHAMPAGNE: MONTRACHET & LE WINE BAR

I S S U E N O. 2

Australia’s Champagne Magazine

@V INE A NDB UBBL E

@V INE A NDB UBBL E

@V INE A NDB UBBL E

SA R A @V INE A NDB UBBL E .C OM

W

W W W.V INE A NDB UBBL E .C OM

Australia’s Champagne Magazine

Inside this

Issue Cover photo: Wade Whitington

2

|

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

WIN E 07.

The Beauty of Self-Destruction The Life of Yeasts

10.

M is for Meunier

13.

Bite the Cherry

24.

Label Leaders The Etiquette of Champagne Labels

26.

Arrivals

31.

Challenging the Rules Champagne and Food

39.

The Tasting Room

W IN E 4 2.

4 4.

Flawless: Understanding Faults in Wine Perfectly Imperfect

PEOPLE 57.

Trade Relations

64.

Vin de Champagne Awards A Short History

1869: The Birth of an Icon Moët Impérial

PL ACE V INE 46.

Profiling Ambonnay

49.

Changing Seasons A Year in Champagne

53.

Climate Change

69.

Sniff, Sip, Savour

75.

How to Experience Champagne Like a Local

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

|

3

OUR CONTRIBUTORS

Our

Contributors

We thank our contributors who are boundlessly knowledgeable and unwaveringly passionate about champagne. Above all, they are genuinely connected to the wine of Champagne, and its people.

Kate Laurie @deviationrdwine W www.deviationroad.com

Many would know Kate as the multi award-winning sparkling winemaker and co-owner of Adelaide Hills winery, Deviation Road Winery. Most, however, would be unaware of her extensive background living and studying in Champagne. In 1997, Kate completed an Advanced Diploma in Viticulture and Oenology at Lycée Viticole d’Avize. Her studies and work experience included writing a thesis in French and gaining experience at Champagne Doyard Mahé (Vertus), Domaine Oury-Schreiber (Vitry) and Champagne Sanger (Avize).

In Australia, Kate is celebrated for her premium méthode traditionnelle sparkling wines.

Kaaren Palmer @Kaarenpalmerchampagne @KaarenPalmer Kaaren is an award-winning author and educator on the subject of her passion – champagne. After many years working in the corporate world, Kaaren turned her focus to explore the science and art of champagne, living in and visiting the region for extended periods of time.

In 2016 Kaaren published the acclaimed Champagne – A Tasting Journey and won the Gourmand International Food and Wine Book Award for Best French Wine Book 2016. She is a Dame Chevalier of the Ordre des Coteaux de Champagne and contributes to numerous food and wine publications.

4

|

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

Yoko Ota-Sawyer @yokobubble Some may know Yoko as the tirelessly dedicated illustrator of all things champagne under the auspices of @yokobubble on Instagram. Others may know her for her educated palate and unwavering passion for Champagne’s finest growers.

Paris educated, Boston based, Yoko, has more than 10 years’ experience in the wine industry working across retail sales in the United States, wine judging in the United Kingdom, Japan and France, as well as working numerous harvests and other cellar jobs in Champagne and Mosel.

Amanda Reboul @thebubblediva @thebubblediva W www.tastingthestars.com

An independent champagne presenter and consultant, Amanda’s passion is to bring champagne to life through the power of education. Since returning to Australia after many years living in France, Amanda has become known for her bespoke events, masterclasses, lunches and dinners, as well as speaking engagements with corporate and public audiences.

In 2014, she was a finalist in the professional category of the Vin de Champagne Awards and has since coordinated annual tours to the Champagne region, introducing Australians to its history and the diversity of champagne wines. In 2016, Amanda founded ‘Effervescence’ a highly acclaimed and unique festival in Queensland dedicated exclusively to champagne.

Megan Barber @meganb_xo Megan is as passionate about champagne as an industry as she is about the wine.

Beginning her professional career as a Brand Development Manager in Sydney for one of Champagne’s oldest Grandes Marques, her enthusiasm for the wine inspired a year in France where she was mentored by one of Champagne’s youngest and most dynamic producers. At the end of 2018, Megan returned to Australia to assume a role as Brand Development Manager with Noble Spirits in New South Wales.

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

|

5

EDITORS NEWS

Welcome!

Since the inaugural issue of VINE & BUBBLE Magazine, from November last year, I’ve felt flattered by the reception from readers and industry representatives who have found value in its publication.

Slow and steady has set the pace as I’ve navigated the many unknowns, and risks, when traversing an uncommon path, such as this. The first issue was launched exclusively as a digital copy for this reason.

Back then, I would never have thought I’d be releasing a second issue as a printed copy as well. It demonstrates the massive leap we’ve made in a very short space of time, thanks to the support of champagne lovers in Australia and further afield. Thank you!

It also signals that there are sophisticated wine lovers out there with a curiosity for champagne - you are one of them. It gives me endless pleasure to engage the very best contributors, and source news and information, that is fresh, current, and authentic for our eager readers. It allows them to delve deeper into their passion and connect even further with champagne - the wine and Champagne - the region.

6

|

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

This issue, I’m proud to say that all feature stories have been written exclusively by leading women of wine, but it hasn’t been by design. Rather, I believe it’s indicative of more women becoming interested in champagne in a serious way, beyond its glitz and fizz.

So sit back, pour yourself a glass, and enjoy Issue No. 2.

As always, I’m interested in knowing what you think, so please feel free to email me at sara@vineandbubble.com.

Santé!

Sara Underdown Founder and Editor, VINE & BUBBLE Magazine

WINE

The Beauty of Self-Destruction

The Life of Yeasts

Award-winning Adelaide Hills sparkling winemaker, Kate Laurie, takes a closer look at the silent work of yeasts in creating the magical combination of aromas and textures in champagne wines.

Kate Laurie Victor Pugatschew and Stephane Gautier

WORDS BY PHOTOGRAPHY BY

Champagne’s ‘something special’ is unparalleled, in my mind, by any other drink; so much so that the bottle is often finished before you have a chance to truly get your head around what has passed your lips.

The elements that make champagne so dazzling are often misunderstood, or barely given a moment of thought, but with a little more insight, they may make you pause a moment the next time you’re handed a glass.

Much of the evolution in a wine's character is due to the yeast that carries out primary and secondary fermentations. Along with the grape variety used, how ripe the grapes are (or aren’t), and the amount of

secondary fermentation is complete.

The yeast autolysis characters, to which we commonly refer, are derived from these lees. I’ll return to this point later.

Yeast lees are also produced during primary fermentation, when freshly pressed grape juice is converted to base wine. This occurs either in stainless steel tanks or oak barrels (as in the manner of Pol Roger versus Krug). Yeasts are incredible organisms, not only because they produce alcohol, but also because they scavenge oxygen and impart a textural component to the palate of the wine.

“Along with the grape variety used, how ripe the grapes are (or aren’t), and the amount of dosage liquor added before it is corked, the time spent on lees has a significant olfactory impact on the wine.”

Méthode Champenoise is one of the most involved processes in winemaking … and it takes a long time. For sparkling winemakers, a crystal ball would be helpful at times, as the wine placed inside a bottle often doesn’t smell or taste in the way anticipated upon release some two, seven or even 20 years later.

dosage liquor added before it is corked, the time spent on lees has a significant olfactory impact on the wine. ‘Lees’ is the fancy way of describing yeast sediment that falls to the bottom of the bottle once

Champagne and sparkling base wines are actually rather subtle in aroma, but highly architectural in structure. They build more body,

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

|

7

Above: Measuring chardonnay sugar levels at Jacques Lassaigne in Montgueux.

Left: Lees sediment after second fermentation.

Re-suspending lees has other benefits, too; they keep the wine fresh and help prevent oxidation.

flavour and aroma once secondary fermentation takes place and the wine becomes sparkling.

Primary fermentation can be spontaneous, using airborne or grape skin derived yeast that is present in the atmosphere.

Alternatively, fermentation can be induced by adding one of the selected yeast strains that are commercially available. Different yeast strains contribute to the release of various aromatic compounds depending on the variety being fermented. Most champagnes are made using a neutral yeast strain, aspiring to citrus, soft red fruits,

8

|

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

and minerality, rather than to big fruity or tropical aromas in the base wine, which can become heavy after the second ferment.

To add texture and complexity on the palate of the base wine, the primary ferment lees can be re-suspended into the base wine during ageing and before blending and bottling. If the ferment was undertaken in barrel, this occurs by bâtonnage, where each barrel is stirred weekly or monthly to keep the lees in suspension. If the base wine is in tank, lees can be mixed back in via pumping (this is known as a 'pump over').

“Most champagnes are made using a neutral yeast strain, aspiring to citrus, soft red fruits, and minerality, rather than to big fruity or tropical aromas in the base wine, which can become heavy after the second ferment.”

What many people don’t know is that champagne is very low in added sulphur, which is often used in wineries to prevent oxidation and microbial spoilage. With sparkling wine/champagne, sulphur can prevent the second fermentation from happening. Or if it does, it can be a stressed fermented, creating ‘off’ odours.

WINE Yeast deposits left on the bottom of the bottle following second fermentation at G.H. Mumm.

Let’s now return to the yeast autolysis discussion. The term autolysis refers to the breakdown of the yeast cytoplasmic constituents into sizes small enough to escape the cell wall as they die and release into the wine.

These constituents include peptides, which are good for bubble formation, and amino acids which can be aromatic precursors. With time, aromatic molecules may form with other wine components. The increase in amino acids, attributed to the autolysis process, begins after around nine months and continues for about two years. It is believed that the toasty, nutty, and biscuit-like aromas in aged champagne results from this process.

However, I have not yet found a document that relates a specific aroma to its autolytic precursor.

For producers wanting to develop these later characters in their champagnes, time spent on lees in the bottle can take a minimum of seven years. For purists, wanting to

“The increase in amino acids, attributed to the autolysis process, begins after around nine months and continues for about two years.” show varietal or vineyard aspects, disgorging the wine sooner will minimise autolytic characters.

I personally think autolytic aromas can be elusive, as some champagnes I have tried with eight years on

lees (or more) don’t show any of these typically toasty characters (Agrapart), while others are brimming with them (Charles Heidsieck). Naturally, this leads to an entirely different discussion around how varietals develop aromatically, independently of yeasts. In my opinion, pinot noir develops more of those toasty/ nutty characters than chardonnay so it’s possible there are more aromatic precursors available in this varietal. Time will tell following some trials I am running on this very topic.

So, for now, it’s best to simply enjoy those beautiful bubbles and, next time, take a moment to consider the work of yeasts in creating that delicious drop.

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

|

9

M

WINE

is for Meunier Meunier has long been the underappreciated varietal of the Champagne appellation; misunderstood as the poor ageing, fun and fruity ‘lesser’ component of classically blended champagnes. But a new wave of dedicated and open-minded producers is beginning to change the way the region – and world – sees meunier. Champagne expert and meunier enthusiast, Yoko Ota-Sawyer, delves deeper into the mystery of meunier, dispels the myths and uncovers some little known truths.

Yoko Ota-Sawyer P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y Victor Pugatschew WORDS BY

“Meunier gives fruitiness to the blend in champagne, and it does not age well,” was what I learned in wine classes and books. But I started to question this as I experienced many quality champagnes made exclusively from meunier. I wanted to learn more, but information available was limited. During my regular trips to Champagne, I asked producers, known for growing and making champagne from this varietal, about its peculiarities, strengths and weaknesses. What started out as a curiosity has fast become a passion of mine, culminating in a research project that I have affectionately titled ‘M for Meunier’, to honour and bring greater recognition to it. This article is a small homage to what I have discovered.

Formerly known as pinot meunier, since it was long considered to be a relative of pinot noir, meunier (as it’s now commonly referred to) has come into its own in recent years. New DNA testing has

10

|

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

been unsuccessful at establishing a connection between the two, therefore meunier has become independent of its ‘pinot’ precursor.

The name ‘meunier’ derives from the French word ‘miller’ - as in flourmill - because the leaves are covered in tiny white hairs, as though they’ve been dusted with white flour.

meunier remarkably tough. It is often located on cool hillsides, constituting some 70 percent of total plantings along the river in the Vallée de la Marne. Another place where you can find a good portion of quality meunier is around the north-western area of the Montagne de Reims, in a place referred to as La Petite Montagne de Reims.

Unlike the other traditional regional varieties, chardonnay and pinot noir, which are planted all over the world,

Producers tell me their greatest challenges with this varietal includes inconsistent yields, the risk of botrytis, and increased work in vineyards, as vine shoots grow heavy. But if raised with care, meunier is capable of becoming an instrumental part in a nonvintage blend, a vintage blanc de noirs, a rosé by blending or maceration, or a still wine of Coteaux Champenois - in the color of red or white - and even a fortified sweet wine known as ratafia.

“New DNA testing has been unsuccessful at establishing a connection between meunier and pinot noir.” the majority of meunier plantings can be found in Champagne.

Having greater tolerance of frost, and a tendency to bud later, makes

One of the unique things about meunier is its ability to make

Meunier grapes in the Vallée de la Marne

champagnes of different styles; from light and refreshing aperitifs, to full and rich styles with ‘muscles’ that can handle bold and flavourful meat dishes.

Aromatics found in a glass are equally fascinating from fresh citrus fruits of orange, pink grapefruit, and lemon, as well as stone fruits like peach, nectarine, apricot, and Mirabelle plum. When blessed with sunshine and warm weather, meunier can also show ripe and exotic notes of William pear, mango, pineapple, and gooseberry.

Sometimes I find floral scents of orange blossom, honeysuckle, and jasmine together with warmer notes of almonds, aniseed and ginger.

Earthy aromas, such as mushroom and truffles, are often found in more mature bottlings.

Winegrower, Emmanuel Brochet, organically farms 2.5 hectares of vines at Villers-aux-Noeuds, south of Reims.

But where do all of these aromatic components come from? Besides its origin in terms of soil and microclimate, as well as a vintage and time of harvest, producers frequently emphasise the importance of lower yields from older and selection massale vines, which they say contributes to greater consistency and higher quality fruit.

Last, but not least, the influence of winemaking is ever important in the ultimate expression of wine. Some producers prefer to block malolactic fermentation to retain freshness while others enable its course so that wines become softer and rounder. Similarly, types of vessels used for vinification have a big impact on style, ranging from stainless

“Having greater tolerance of frost, and a tendency to bud later, makes meunier remarkably tough.”

steel, enamel tanks, oak barrels of different age/size/toast/origin, as well as concrete eggs and amphora.

“How do you describe meunier?” I am often asked, before sealing my lips to look for answers with frustration.

But I am always reminded of a particularly useful description given to me by meunier specialist, Christophe Mignon. “Meunier has a special ability to express the freshness of chardonnay and the structure and volume of pinot noir.”

For me, what makes this grape interesting is its versatility and surprising quality; you never know what you will get until you take the first sip.

“Meunier has a special ability to express the freshness of chardonnay and the structure and volume of pinot noir.”

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

|

11

Benoît Déhu represents the eighth generation of vignerons at his estate in Fossoy, on the far western edge of the Vallée de la Marne.

The history of meunier’s challenges, its generosity, and resilience to difficult circumstances, makes it the Cinderella of Champagne. There is something captivating about its story as a long underappreciated varietal finally finding its place in the hands of committed producers.

My heart, and respect, is with producers who are changing the future of meunier and that of Champagne.

“The history of meunier’s challenges, its generosity, and resilience to difficult circumstances, makes it the Cinderella of Champagne.”

12

|

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

Harvest 2018 at the estate of meunier producer, Benoît Déhu.

Christophe Mignon, passionate winegrower of biodynamically farmed meunier, in Festigny, along the Vallée de la Marne.

Leading Meunier Producers Laherte Frères – Located not too far from Epernay, in the village of Chavot, young and talented winemaker, Aurélien Laherte, wields his magic to transform meunier from lively and cheerful, Rosé de Meunier, to elegant and beautiful, Les Beaudiers Rosé, and complex and powerful Les Vignes d’Autrefois.

Benoît Déhu – From a single site of 1.7ha, Benoît crafts meunier into quality champagnes that drink with the elegance of fine white Burgundy, as well as rosés, and Coteaux Champenois in red and white. ‘Mr. Meunier Power’ also experiments with different rootstocks to maximise meunier’s potential.

Christophe Mignon – Using organic and biodynamic methods in raising meunier, Christophe Mignon produces a wide range of meunier bottlings that express purity and quality of fruit.

Emmanuel Brochet – Hailing from the northeastern side of the Montagne de Reims is Emmanuel Brochet, whose Les Hautes Meuniers presents warmth and generosity together with exotic spice and mouthwatering salinity that runs along the palate like a beautiful horse.

Bite the

WINE

Cherry New to meunier?

BITE THE CHERRY WITH THESE SUGGESTIONS R E C E N T LY R O A D T E S T E D B Y O U R E X P E RT TA S T I N G GROUP IN ADELAIDE. WORDS BY

Sara Underdown Wade Whitington

PHOTOGRAPHY BY

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

|

13

Classic, Non-Vintage

Meunier

These fine examples are a good starting place to experience meunier’s classic profile. Vinification techniques and levels of dosage make for varying degrees of richness, or minerality, that is both delicious and intriguing.

Sara Underdown, VINE & BUBBLE Magazine

14

|

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

WINE

Apollonis Authentic Meunier

Christophe Mignon Pur Meunier Brut Nature

José Michel & Fils Pinot Meunier

100% meunier taken from a RRP small estate in Festigny in the Marne Valley.

Vinified in enamelled vats with malolactic fermentation. 50% reserve wine. 24 months on lees.

Dosage 9 g/L.

100% meunier from Festigny, RRP taken from south to southwest facing old vines. Farmed biodynamically.

Vinification in stainless steel and enamelled vats. No malolactic fermentation. Compilation of two vintages. Reserves spend 12 additional months on fine lees prior to bottling. No dosage.

100% meunier taken from old RRP vines in a single vineyard in Moussy, south of Epernay.

Vinification in stainless steel. Full malolactic fermentation. Dosage is 10 g/L.

$75

Gold in the glass, the nose presents a classic meunier profile with its ample reserves revealing peaty/ smokey and dark rye aromas. On the palate, it appears quite rich and ‘fat’ with fruit mince flavours, broad execution, and discernible silky texture. A flavourful - if not slightly cloying - medium-length finish.

$95

Straight away, things appear clean and classy in this no dosage offering from biodynamic producer, Christophe Mignon. To the eye, it is gold with hints of green. To the nose, there are early signs of oxidative development, elegant florals, peach, and dried fruit. The palate is ripe and flavoursome, notably blackcurrant, but not at the expense of structure. This is a clean and focused wine thanks to its lime-citrus edge and conspicuous salinity. Medium length finish.

$75

Highly perfumed to the nose, this is a solid example of 100% meunier done well with loads of spice, florals, citrus, ginger, as well as exotic fruits. On the palate, this is a delectable and vinous wine with its juicy-quincy notes, spice and comforting roundness from ample reserves. A light silky texture is offset by medium levels of crisp acidity, making for a well-structured and nicely balanced example of non-vintage meunier. Good length.

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

|

15

Meunier

WINE

Made Two Ways It would be hard to find two producers more divergent in their approach than Egly-Ouriet and Gosset. Egly-Ouriet, one of the finest growers in the Montagne de Reims, known for its natural, characterful and robust style, and Gosset, one of the finest houses, celebrated for its pure and precise champagnes of finesse and elegance.

Egly-Ouriet Les Vignes de Vrigny

Gosset Blanc de Meunier

100% meunier taken from a single, 40 year old, south-facing vineyard in Vrigny, a commune located on the Petite Montagne de Reims. Full malolactic fermentation and bottled without filtration. Around 36 - 38 months on lees. Dosage is 5 g/L.

100% meunier from the villages around Epernay on full southfacing slopes. Vinified in stainless steel on chardonnay lees (from Avize and Cramant). No malolactic fermentation. Aged for nine years in the cellar. Dosage is 3 g/L.

RRP

$157

Intensely golden in colour, this small wonder from EglyOuriet offers a subtly developed nose with melted butter and honey, refreshed by flinty minerality. Medium bodied with perky acidity and bright flavours of apricot kernel, bitter mandarin and the faintest hint of spice.

True to Egly’s style, it remains tightly controlled from beginning to end, delivering excellent finesse and flavour all the way to a long, dry finish.

RRP

$225

The sheer elegance and virtue of this unusual offering from Gosset starts at first sight. Ultra-tiny, slow release bubbles against a golden backdrop offer a glimpse into its nine years cellar ageing. Youthful pear, white and yellow stone fruits, raspberry leaf and the floral beauty of lilac aromas promise something special. The palate follows through with a freshness that complements a tempered acid structure and elevates its light, creamy finesse. Harmony and elegance defines the ethereal beauty of this noteworthy champagne all the way to a long finish.

Amanda Reboul from The Truffle Man & The Bubble Diva, with Dona Attard

16

|

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

Meunier Made Two Ways VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

|

17

Left: Apollonis Vieilles Vignes 2008.

Below: Our expert tasting group.

Bottom Left: Steve Dundon, Champagne XS. Bottom Right: Kaaren Palmer, Kaaren Palmer Champagne.

18

|

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

Vintage

WINE

Meunier Experience a seasonal contrast with these two very different wine growers; the crisp freshness of the 2008 vintage, lauded as the best of the decade, compared with the cooler vintage conditions of 2007. Here, Hugues Godme uses oak to elaborate a more difficult vintage, where Apollonis employs enamelled vats to keep things more precise.

Hugues Godme Les Romaines 2007 100% meunier taken from vintage 2007. Grapes come from old vines RRP in Villedommange, on the Petite Montagne de Reims, middle to bottom of slope. The first 200L of pressings are added to the taille and removed, leaving the coeur de cuvĂŠe (best juice). Use of natural yeast, low sulphur. Vinified and aged on lees in oak. No fining or filtration. Six years ageing on lees in bottle. No dosage.

$130

A developing, creamy and slightly oxidative nose with some pine needle and stoney minerality thrown in for freshness. This is a full bodied wine with good acid structure. Flavours of berry compote/tart and mocha teeter with fresh strawberry and blackcurrant making for a delicious, intensely salivating food wine all the way to its long finish.

Apollonis Vieilles Vignes 2008 100% meunier made from vintage 2008. Taken from old vines planted in 1942. Vinified in enamelled vats with malolactic fermentation. Seven years ageing on lees. Dosage is extra brut.

RRP

$139

2008’s crispness and focus plays a key role in this fine expression from Apollonis.

Medium gold to the eye, the nose is youthful and fresh, presenting yellow stone fruits, lightly baked bread notes and an almost minty leaf-like quality. Light and creamy on the palate with well-integrated salinity. Finishes long and dry.

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

|

19

Rosé from

WINE

Meunier These flirtatiously fruity champagnes are good examples of meunier’s fun and more lighthearted side.

Laherte Frères Rosé de Meunier

André Heucq Heritage Rosé de Meunier – Phase 1

100% meunier made three ways: 60% made as a whole (including 40% reserve wine aged in barrel); 30% blended as a saignée; and 10% made as a still red wine. The white comprises 40% reserves aged in barrel.

Partial malolactic fermentation.

Dosage is 2.5g/L.

100% 2014 meunier from a single vineyard parcel in Cuisles - Le Bout de la Ville - located on limestone and clay (illite) in the Vallée de la Marne.

This is a 24 hour maceration saignée, vinified in tank, with no malolactic fermentation. 36 months aged on lees.

Dosage is extra brut.

RRP

$109

This off-beat rosé from Aurélien Laherte’s portfolio of ‘special and original cuvées’ offers boldness of character heightened by low dosage and elegant minerality. Rosé de Meunier is flamboyantly characterful, revealing meunier in a way uncommonly seen. Think summer in Sardinia or on the Amalfi Coast and you’re almost there.

With its bright orangey salmon hue, Aurelien’s complex assemblage speaks of Campari aperitifs on the terrace with its prominent rhubarb and vermouth infused aromatics. There’s plenty of fresh fruit too; strawberry, orange and crisp red apple. The ripeness of fruit makes things appear fuller on the palate but its low dosage, bright acidity and fine minerality keeps things fresh and structured.

Right: Ali Kerr, Wine Direct

20

|

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

RRP

$90

Perhaps it’s not surprising that the bedazzling deep pink of this saignée rosé is equally as bright on the nose. With its unashamedly primary cherry-raspberry aromas, there is no room for anything yeasty here. The palate is just as cheerful with a kind of fullness from fruit intensity and sweetness reminiscent of raspberry jam. Yet a contrasting cleanliness and minerality keeps it nice and crisp.

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

|

21

Meunier WINE

Blends

Classically blended champagnes typically include some portion of meunier, imparting fresh fruit flavours, roundness and approachability to sometimes youthful and nervy non-vintages. Historically, champagne houses include a small amount of meunier, but in the case of Billecart-Salmon and Perrier-Jouët, meunier is used generously to define their non-vintage style.

Billecart-Salmon Brut Reserve 40% meunier, 30% pinot noir and 30% chardonnay. Vinification in stainless steel tanks with malolactic fermentation. Includes 50% to 60% reserve wine with 30 months ageing on lees. Dosage is 8g/L

RRP

$75

One of the most reliable non-vintages on the market, Billecart-Salmon’s entry level cuvée is also one of the most harmonious. Light gold in the glass, the nose is youthful with lemon freshness, Morello cherries and blackcurrants, and offers some light toasty development care of ample reserves. On the palate, it appears a little more vinous, but it’s not without a lively kick of youth. It’s fresh and vibrant with a tingling sensation of chardonnay’s grapefruit acidity. Brut Reserve’s meunier bias is obvious through the breadth and plushness of the palate, whilst pinot noir lends some focus; the trilogy of varietals showing how well they can perform their balancing act.

Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut 40% meunier, 40% pinot noir and 20% chardonnay. Vinification in stainless steel tanks with malolactic fermentation. Includes 15% reserve wine with 30 months ageing on lees.

Dosage is 9g/L.

RRP

$70

There’s a lovely harmony to this champagne that makes it particularly beautiful to drink. On the nose, it presents deliciously true to its feminine style of melted butter, flowers, pears and toast with just a touch of spice. On the palate, it’s rich and creamy, yet energetic and fresh, with tingling lemon acidity. It finishes with the length of pinot noir, leaving a subtle hint of green stems phenolics.

22

|

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

Top (Left to Right): Kaaren Palmer, Steve Dundon and Ali Kerr.

Above: Meunier champagne on ice.

Right: Sally McGill from Joval Wine Group.

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

|

23

WINE

Label Leaders The Etiquette of

Champagne Labels For the serious champagne drinker, the enjoyment received from opening a bottle can be added to, or detracted from, when referring to the back label.

Award-winning champagne author, Kaaren Palmer, decodes champagne labels and shares her views on understanding more about the wine within.

WORDS BY

Champagne labels disclose some information – the front label states the brand, the type (rosé, blanc de blancs, blanc de noirs), the year of vintage or the designation (non-vintage) for blends of years, the level of sweetness (brut, extra brut, etc.), the volume held in the bottle, the name and type of producer (NM meaning a producer who buys grapes, RM a producer who owns grapes, etc.), and the name of the village or town in which the wine was bottled.

Reversing the bottle and finding further label information to discuss over dinner, or using that information as an aid to speedy food and wine matching, adds to our enjoyment considerably.

When buying champagne, it's much quicker and more convenient to check a label than to scan and find a document on a mobile phone. As for having the disgorgement date stamped on the cork, that's useless in a buying or cellaring situation. When we are storing champagne, in the

Kaaren Palmer

absence of further detail, the disgorgement date provides a rough guide to the age of the champagne, its youth or development, and how much longer the champagne might need to rest for the dosage to marry with the blend.

Bruno Paillard was first to disclose disgorgement dates, and his influence can be seen today throughout the Lanson BCC group, which includes Philipponnat.

Charles Heidsieck's labels display the disgorgement date, as well as the year of the principal component.

Other producers, such as Bollinger and Ayala, have followed suit, but only with their top champagnes.

It's the growers and small domains that can be credited with the emergence of back labels revealing more; the types of grapes and their percentages in the blend, the exact dosage, the year of the base wine and composition of reserve wines if it's NV, the village or vineyard/s, the disgorgement date and method of production, as well as if it includes

“One can well imagine that if such care is taken with a label, it's a demonstration of the producer's general standard of care in the viticultural and, subsequently, the production process.”

24

|

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

Champagne et Villages selects from among the finest small growers for our delectation. The labels from this stable are a shining example.

Why be coy about such a great bottle of champagne? There's not even a teaser on detail, such as the year of the largest component. The consumer must type the number into the Krug website in order to find out more.

Another fine example of information readily available about this super fine champagne.

May we know the year, please JĂŠrĂ´me, or the time on lees?

malolactic fermentation or not, and, on occasion, the best time to drink the contents of the bottle.

Moreover, one can well imagine that if such care is taken with a label, it's a demonstration of the producer's general standard of care in the viticultural and, subsequently, the production process. Bottles displaying scannable codes are adding one step too many for a dinner party or for a quick retail purchase, useful as

it is for the serious researcher and collector to know about the weather, the ageing potential, and the chef de cave's interpretation of the olfactory and other qualities apparent when they and their team tasted the wine at the source. Here, florid language may be indulged. But some scannable codes lead to no information at all, or to general information about the winery or the cuvĂŠe.

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

|

25

WINE

Arrivals

This year, the 2008 vintage will continue to thrill and beguile us all as some of the most anticipated releases of the decade reach Australia.LA GRANDE ANNÉE Prestige and vintage offerings, on tight allocations, will be snapped up in DEPTH AND REFINEM no time by savvy collectors; so be quick.

PRODUCTION Blend of the 2008 vintage: 71% Pinot Aÿ and Verzenay for the Pinot Noir, L Chardonnay.

Exclusive use of the cuvée.

Fermented entirely in aged oak barrels.

At Bollinger, only very high quality ha remarkable maturity of the grapes com produced a wine of infinite depth and all Maturation: Sealed with a natural cork time required by the Appellation.

Dosage: Moderate, 8 grams per litre.

Vinified exclus Riddled and dis

SENSATIONS To the eye: The delicate colour and gold and reflective of Bollinger’s wine-makin To the nose: A wonderful aromatic dept intertwine to reveal a highly complex n precede saffron and tonka bean, comp On the palate: Dense and harmonious and fresh structure, with a gentle salin

PAIRINGS Cured ham.

Seared scallops or scallops tartare. Gri Chicken in a light creamy sauce.

OUR ADVICE La Grande Année 2008 is the perfec appreciate its unique style and aroma between 8 and 10°C. You can enjoy L age it in your cellar.

HISTORY La Grande Année is the embodimen expertise of the Bollinger Champagne vinified in small aged oak barrels. Cha this traditional craft method, which he a prolonged ageing on its lees, even t riddled and disgorged by hand.

Bollinger Serve cool and open gently. Contains sulphites.

E N J O Y R E S P O N S I B LY

Pol Roger The release of two stellar vintages across three new cuvées will make 2019 a very good year Pol Roger in Australia. Whilst the 2012 Brut Vintage and 2012 Blanc de Blancs are currently making their way onto our shelves, loyalists will get their chance to own a bottle, or magnum, of the lauded 2008 Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill from July. Described by Paul Graham, Director of Business Development at Pol Roger, as the ‘most investible Sir Winston Churchill ever made’, strict allocations are in place for the release which is expected to sell out almost immediately.

26

|

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

Perhaps the most anticipated release of 2019 is La Grande Année 2008 from the revered house of Bollinger.

It has taken more than ten years to reveal the full quality of the vintage with this intense, complex and harmonious wine promising huge ageing potential. Vinification has taken place exclusively in small oak barrels (each 20 years old) followed by ageing on lees in bottle using natural cork. La Grande Année 2008 is Bollinger’s first prestige cuvée to have been aged in the shapely 1846 Bollinger bottle and will be available from August.

Veuve Clicquot Staying with the 2008 theme, Veuve Clicquot’s chef de cave, Dominque Demarville, will travel to Australia in July for the official launch of La Grande Dame 2008. In a noticeable overhaul of its brand and style, pinot noir constitutes some 92 percent of the 2008 vintage which normally has a higher proportion of chardonnay. One other difference is the new eyecatching label. 2008 was Demarville’s first vintage with the house. It is a blend of six grand crus and receives a low dosage of just 6g/L. Stocks won’t arrive until late August or early September.

Charles Heidsieck Flagged for release last year, Charles Heidsieck’s anticipated launch of their Blanc de Blancs Non-Vintage will finally hit Australian shores from July this year. Executive Director of the house, Stephen Leroux, was recently in Australia with a sneak preview of the 100 percent chardonnay beauty featuring a 2012 base (75%) with the balance coming from reserves with an average age of five years. Chardonnay was taken from Oger and Vertus in the Côte des Blancs, as well as Villers-Marmery, Trépail, Vaudemange and Montgueux. Each bottle has been aged for more than four years on lees and sees a dosage of 10g/L. The new cuvée will take a seat alongside Charles’ Brut Reserve and Rosé Reserve. Expect to pay RRP $180 per bottle, available at selected in retailers and restaurants.

Laurent-Perrier In the coming months, Laurent-Perrier will launch two new champagnes in Australia. From July 31, lovers of Laurent-Perrier’s elegant chardonnaydriven style will get their chance to own a bottle of Millésimé 2008, following 10 years on lees. September will bring something a little unusual by way of Laurent-Perrier Cuvée Rosé, in Jeroboam (3L), in the same iconic shape. It will be the first time Cuvée Rosé has been made available in the larger-than-life format.

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

|

27

Pierre Paillard From the beginning of July, we will get our first taste of the 2013 and 2014 vintages from Pierre Paillard’s sustainably farmed, pinot noir dominated cuvées. Les Parcelles NV and Les Terres Roses NV will both switch to the 2014 base whilst the glorious blanc de blancs, Les Mottelettes, will move to 2013. Paillard’s blanc de noirs, Les Maillerettes 2014, will arrive at the end of the year.

Louis Roederer Over the last few months we have seen less of Louis Roederer’s deliciously ripe Vintage Rosé 2012 and the emergence of Vintage Rosé 2013, which has taken on the more delicate, cooler climate notes of the vintage. Later in the year, we will move to Blanc de Blancs 2011, Vintage Brut 2013 and - very late in 2019 - to another anticipated release of Cristal, the 2012 vintage.

Devotees of Roederer’s excellent Brut Nature will be thrilled to finally get their hands on the 2012 vintage, which succeeds 2009, as well as a new release from the line; Brut Nature Rosé 2012.

Frerejean Frères Frerejean Frères’ old vines special blend, VV26, is being canvassed for interest in Australia before we are granted an allocation. Aged for eight years and sealed with a traditional agrafe, chardonnay is sourced from 90 year old vines, aged in oak for seven months and incorporates blends from the 2008 and 2009 vintages. It was recently awarded a 17.5/20 score by the shrewd, Jancis Robinson, who remarked that it was ‘really very good indeed’. Importers, Noble Spirits, would like to hear from interested trade and public readers.

In other news, a limited edition champagne, Cuvée de l’Empereur, will be released shortly to celebrate 250 years since the birth of Napoléon Bonaparte in homage to the family’s heritage as master forgers/cannon makers to France’s first Emperor.

28

|

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

Lovers of Gimonnet’s exacting and energetic style will get an opportunity to own something extra special from the producer following release of their 2008 Special Club Cuvée 'Millésime de Collection' Blanc de Blancs, available in magnum from Negociants Australia.

Gimonnet’s 2013 version of Paradoxe, a fruity, pinot noir dominant wine, will also be released. Both will be available by the end of June.

Boll & Cie Boll & Cie has issued some limited details about a special release, single vineyard blanc de blancs known as Grande Reserve.

Not even the vintage is known at this point in time, but we are reliably informed that it will be old enough to order its own drink (that is, at least 18 years old).

The champagne will become Boll & Cie’s ultimate prestige cuvée.

Dehours et Fils At the end of July, a new shipment will arrive from the estate of passionate organic winegrower, Jérome Dehours, located in the Marne Valley.

The most exciting arrivals includes a Brut Nature NV, which uses their own natural yeasts, as well as a Vieilles Vignes Vintage 2011 comprising a third each of meunier, pinot noir and chardonnay. The Brut Nature is an experimental cuvée, aged for a long period of time on lees, and plays to Dehours’ meunier bias. A high proportion of reserve wine is included from a perpetual reserve starting from 1998 and malolactic fermentation is allowed.

WINE

Pierre Gimonnet & Fils

Moët & Chandon This year marks the birth of a champagne icon, Moët & Chandon’s Brut Impérial. Over the past 150 years, Moët’s flagship has been accompanied by some unforgettable moments of celebration and glamour. A limited edition bottle to commemorate the occasion will be made available in Australia by July (RRP $70). In other news, Moët’s Grand Vintage will transition from the currently available 2009 vintage to 2012 in September or October.

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

|

29

Organic Champagne

Nesh Semic, bubbly ambassador for organic champagne, has not long arrived back from another extensive trip to Champagne. This time, he has brought with him a new shipment of fine growers, among them: Adrien Dhondt (Flavigny), Pierre Gerbais (Celles-sur-Ource), Alexandre Filaine (Damery), Ruppert-Leroy (Essoyes), Benoit Déhu (Fossoy), Nicolas Maillart (Ecueil), Charles Dufour (Landreville), Hubert Soreau (Cramant), Jacques Lassaigne (Montgueux), Emmanuel Brochet (Villersaux-Noeuds), Georges Laval (Cumières), Timothy Stroebel (Villers Allerand), Goutorbe-Bouillot (Damery), and Champagne Most (Avize).

Palmer & Co. Australia’s latest shipment of Palmer’s elegant and creamy cuvées comes with a transition to some new base wines; Brut Reserve, Blanc de Blancs, and Blanc de Noirs Non-Vintages have moved onto the 2013 base whilst the Rosé NonVintage rolls over to 2014. October will bring some large format delights by way of Vintage 2008, Brut Reserve and Blanc de Blancs NonVintage en magnum. We will also get our first taste of the 2012 Vintage.

David Donald Champagnes Marc Hébrart has long been a winegrower David Donald has championed from Mareuil-sur-Aÿ. The latest shipment includes two new releases from Hébrart; a Coteaux Champenois Blanc and a new cuvée known as Mes Favorites Vieilles Vignes, which is a blend of Hébrart's favourite and oldest vines. The wine is a blend of 75 percent pinot noir and 25 percent chardonnay from three vintages (2014, 2013 and 2012). ‘A sensational wine’, according to David.

30

|

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

Challenging the Rules WINE

Champagne and Food

Understanding how primary tastes interact is necessary when pairing champagne with food. But fine-tuning the rules of thumb, especially with some consideration for texture and luxury, can really improve our overall enjoyment of the two together and make less likely combinations possible.

Sara Underdown Judit Losh (Brisbane) and Charmaine Fulton (Adelaide) WORDS BY

PHOTOGRAPHY BY

Champagne is much more of a food wine than is commonly thought. In fact, there are few foods that do not pair with champagne, albeit through carefully considered cooking methods and recipes.

Like all wines, there are general rules of thumb that apply based on primary taste interactions (sweetness, umami, acidity, saltiness, bitterness and heat). Champagne’s salinity and acidity, for example, make it possible for it to dance effortlessly with everything from oysters to French fries. Its autolysis (yeasty) characters align nicely to almost anything with a fried or toasty crunch, and its fruity and savoury notes compliment a host of umami dishes from raw seafood to truffles.

is there is an art in balancing the flavours we apply to general rules of thumb. A little fine-tuning, here are there, not only preserves the integrity of food flavour, but also elaborates the promise of a great champagne wine.

menu, Green says it started with a basic reference to France before taking it a step further. He says that successful champagne and food pairing needs to evoke a sense of luxury, celebration, and the anticipation of what comes next.

Increasingly, chefs and sommeliers are experimenting with how a

“Textures that contrast and complement each other are important, particularly when it comes to the luxury component of champagne,” he says.

“Silky textures such as parsnip mousse, chicken liver parfait, blackberry gel, tomato rouille; these all tick that box nicely.

And what could be more celebratory than a surprise burst from some salmon roe?”

“The key is to choose vegetables as the unsung hero in dishes, using their texture, as opposed to flavour, to play to champagne’s luxuriousness.”

Rules can guide us, but in the case of champagne, they can also lead us astray. A little something that I learned in my WSET study days was that wine has less of an impact on our perception of food flavour yet food can heighten or lessen our perception of wine. The truth

little artful balancing can push our general understanding of champagne and food pairing rules.

For evidence, look no further than our capital cities where restaurants and event organisers are lining-up to host champagne dinners with thought-provoking menus.

In Adelaide, Stewart Green, Head Chef of Sprout Cooking School, curated a magnum-only champagne dinner with Tyson Stelzer earlier this year. When asked about his approach to some of the more unlikely food compliments on the

Whilst vegetables can be difficult to pair with champagne, Green says that the key is to choose them as the unsung hero in dishes, using their texture, as opposed to flavour, to play to champagne’s luxuriousness.

When applying this principle, more challenging ingredients, such as tomato, onion and ginger, can be the critical link for a dish in finding its champagne mate.

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

|

31

Left: Pol Roger 2009 with chicken liver parfait cigars, blackberry gel and fig toast.

Right: Champagne magnum-only dinner at Sprout Cooking School, Adelaide.

WINE

Tomato

Onion

Ginger

Confit salmon, tomato rouille, tapioca wafer and salmon roe with Pierre Gimonnet & Fils Blanc de Blancs 2009

A croque monsieur (and caramelised onion) with Louis Roederer Brut Premier NV

Glazed duck breast with shiitake broth, shallots and ginger with Bollinger Special Cuvée NV

The moreishness of a crunchy and buttery croque monsieur laden with sweetened and silky caramelised onion marries joyfully with the richness, creaminess and lemon citrus freshness of Louis Roederer’s refined Brut Premier NV.

A Japanese twist on a French style dish of duck breast and braised leg complements the bright lemon acidity of Bollinger’s Special Cuvée NV. Using an element of ginger acts like a bridge between the unctuous duck leg and deep soy notes as well as the earthy shiitake mushroom broth. Not only does it balance the dish, it also brings it closer to the Bollinger.

Blended into a rouille, tomato can be used for its silky texture and rich flavour rather than its off-putting acidic tomato taste.

It finds its match in confit salmon, with its lovely soft texture, and a tapioca wafer providing the crunch. Paired with Pierre Gimonnet’s Blanc de Blancs 2009, the richness of the rouille elevates the wine’s light autolyic notes and silky texture, allowing it to shine.

32

|

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

Someone else who is similarly adept at the art of balancing food with champagne is Shannon Kellam, owner and Chef of one-hatted Montrachet in Brisbane. Kellam hosts a series of monthly wine dinners and boasts one of best champagne lists in the city. On advice from his Head Sommelier, he suggests an unusual pairing for his Hervey Bay scallop signature dish using an oak-aged, pinot noir dominant champagne instead of a lighter style. Scallops are poached and prepared with tomato and fennel, Rathdowney finger lime, and curry emulsion.

Shellfish, tomato, and curry are a classical combination from the spice trade and French cuisine, albeit with a modern twist. At first thought, it would be easy to

dismiss its potential as a partner for champagne, but Kellam says that its suitability is largely in the subtlety of flavours but also texture.

Scallops, momentarily poached, reveal a fleshy sweetness. Tomatoes, with acid removed from the skin, have a lovely succulence. And the frothy sauce, made simply from the bubbles of a beurre blanc, adds another touch of luxury through texture. Curry, oh-so delicately blended, adds fragrance and a slight kick at the back of the palate.

With the sweetness from the scallops, plus complexity from the curry emulsion, Egly-Ouriet’s full-bodied, fresh and complex Brut Grand Cru Millésime 2007 (70% pinot noir / 30% chardonnay) works well as a stronger champagne complement.

In March this year, Bethany Finn, Executive Chef of Adelaide’s five star Mayfair Hotel, orchestrated a five-course menu to accompany G.H. Mumm’s RSRV collection.

When designing the menu, Finn says she gave consideration to texture and balance. Produce, she says, should be subtle and not overpowering as champagne is a delicate style of wine.

Finn’s main course was ocean trout coulibiac, champagne beurre blanc and smoked pearls served with Mumm’s outstanding RSRV Blanc de Noirs 2009, consisting of Verzenay pinot noir. Coulibiac (pastry) added a lovely toasty crunch, smoked salmon pearls complemented the wine’s smokey pinot noir notes, and the sauce added a silky richness.

Below: Hervey Bay scallops with tomato and fennel, Rathdowney finger lime, and curry emulsion at Montrachet, Brisbane, paired with Egly-Ouriet Brut Grand Cru Millésime 2007.

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

|

33

Below Left: Champagne’s salinity and acidity makes it pair effortlessly with oysters.

Bottom: Head Chef, Stewart Green, from Sprout Cooking School, Adelaide.

WINE 34

|

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

Below Left: Ocean trout coulibiac, beurre blanc and smoked pearls served with Mumm’s RSRV Blanc de Noirs 2009 at the Mayfair Hotel, Adelaide.

Below Top: Frappe of berry sorbet, macerated strawberries with dark chocolate sablé.

Below Bottom: Executive Chef from the Mayfair Hotel, Bethany Finn, plating up.

“The sauce tied everything together,” says Finn. “Beurre blanc, butter, cream and smoked salmon pearls were the heroes. The smokiness enhanced but also tied in the flavours.”

When it comes to ending a meal, there is a common misunderstanding that rosé champagne and dessert go together, because champagne is most often a dry (brut) style. But in the case of Finn’s experience with Mumm’s RSRV Rosé Foujita, the key was to pair a dark chocolate, which is less sweet, with the acidity in a berry sorbet and the delicate, and crumbly

texture of a traditional Normandy sablé cookie. The balance worked extremely well with the champagne.

“We brainstormed a few ideas with our pastry chef on what was achievable,” she says. “Our goal was to create a complimentary dish to enhance the Foujita and not overpower the flavours. I am quite a textural eater and wanted something crunchy with the sorbet. To finish on a clean palate is also important and satisfying.”

of any kind of food and wine pairing right. But when it comes to champagne, fine-tuning the rules of thumb, especially with some consideration for texture and luxury, can really improve our overall enjoyment of the two together. At a more aspirational level, it also encourages us to move away from dull and sometimes inaccurate associations and toward ones with more imagination, complexity and excitement.

Having a good understanding of primary taste interactions is necessary to get the foundation

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

|

35

RECIPE

Confit salmon, rouille, tapioca wafer and salmon roe Pair with Pierre Gimonnet & Fils 2009 Pair the soft texture of confit salmon, tapioca wafer crunch and the silky richness of tomato rouille with Pierre Gimonnet’s medium bodied 2009 vintage blanc de blancs.

Recipe by Stewart Green, Head Chef at Sprout Cooking School, Adelaide @sproutadl @sproutadl W sprout.edu.au

Rouille

36

|

•

2 x white potatoes

•

600mL of cream

•

3 x cloves of garlic

•

350mL of passata

•

Pinch of saffron (optional)

•

2 x red capsicums, roasted and peeled

•

¼ cup extra virgin olive oil

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

1.

Place the potatoes in a medium saucepan with cold water to cover.

Bring to boil then reduce the heat and simmer for 15 to 20 minutes, until the potatoes are very tender, then drain the liquid.

2. While the potatoes are cooking, bring the cream, passata, garlic and saffron (if using) to a boil. Reduce this mix, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking. Once the mixture has reduced by half, add the roasted capsicum and blend until very smooth.

3. Peel the potatoes then pass through a mouli or a ricer into a large mixing bowl. Stir the warm cream and tomato mixture until the cream is absorbed and the mixture is smooth and then combine with ¼ cup of extra virgin olive oil. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Salmon •

4 x 100g salmon fillets, skin off

1.

Place salmon, frozen olive oil, thyme, garlic and salt into a cryovac bag.

•

¼ cup extra virgin olive oil, frozen over night

2. Seal the bag with a cryovac machine (to a tight seal). This is why we freeze the oil, to prevent it from ruining the seal when the air is sucked out.

•

4 x sprigs thyme

3. Carefully place the fish into a sous vide bath on 45°C for 60 minutes.

•

2 x cloves garlic

•

½ teaspoon salt

•

30g salmon roe

4. When ready to serve, use scissors to carefully cut all the way around the fish. Lift the fish gently out of the bag. It will be quite fragile so take care not to break it.

Tapioca wafer •

1 x cup sago

1.

Bring a medium pot of water to the boil.

•

½ teaspoon paprika

•

¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper

•

¼ teaspoon garlic powder

2. Whisk in the sago and cook for 10-15 minutes. The best way to check if it’s cooked, is to spoon a little bit out, the sago should look plump and translucent.

•

Pinch salt

•

Vegetable oil for deep frying

3. Strain through a fine strainer, then run under a slow stream of cool water to stop the cooking process.

4. In a bowl, mix together the cooled sago with paprika, cayenne, garlic powder and salt.

5. Spread the sago in a thin layer over a baking tray lined with baking paper. Dry the mixture gently in a 55°C fan oven overnight until crisp.

6. Prior to serving, heat fresh oil to 180°C. Break off a chunk of the cracker and place in the hot oil. It should puff up like prawn crackers.

7. Carefully remove the crackers using a small sieve or tongs and place on paper towel.

Beurre Noisette •

Beurre noisette

•

50g butter

•

½ lemon, juiced

•

Pinch of salt

1.

Place butter into a pan, over medium heat, whisking gently until it melts.

2. The butter will foam and then the foam will disappear. You need to keep a close eye on it to prevent burning. Watch for light brown specks to form on the pan and a nutty aroma. Take the pan off the heat at this point then add the lemon juice to prevent further cooking.

Plating 1.

Smear the rouille on the bottom of your plate.

2. Gently place salmon on top of rouille.

3. Pour over beurre noisette.

4. Top with tapioca wafer and salmon roe.

5. Serve immediately with a bright and creamy style blanc de blancs, such as Pierre Gimonnet’s 2009 vintage.

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

|

37

The Champagne Guide 2020-2021 Pre-order Tyson Stelzer’s, The Champagne Guide 2020-2021, for shipment in September 2019.

Tyson Stelzer

I N T E R N AT I O N A L W I N E & S P I R I T C O M M U N I C AT O R OF THE YEAR 2015 ( I N T E R N AT I O N A L W I N E & SPIRIT COMPETITION)

AUSTRALIAN WINE C O M M U N I C AT O R O F T H E YEAR 2015 AND 2013 ( W I N E C O M M U N I C AT O R S AUSTRALIA)

I N T E R N AT I O N A L C H A M PA G N E W R I T E R OF THE YEAR 2011 ( LO U I S R O E D E R E R I N T E R N AT I O N A L W I N E W R I T E R S ’ AW A R D S )

Regarded as one of Australia’s most respected palates and wine authors, Tyson Stelzer’s latest release boasts a new format, double the size of previous editions at 560 pages.

New in the 2020-2021 edition: •

Assessments - Over 800 cuvées recently tasted

•

Insights – An overview of 120 champagne houses, growers and cooperatives

•

Highlights - The best champagnes of the year at every price level and style

•

Analysis – Commentary on the past 24 Champagne vintages

•

Maps – Representations of Champagne villages and vineyards

$A59.95 + postage

Available via www.tysonstelzer.com

WINE

The Tasting Room Take a closer look at some of the more intriguing tastings we’ve experienced this year.

WORDS BY

Sara Underdown

Duval-Leroy Femme de Champagne Brut Grand Cru

RRP

$199

80% chardonnay and 20% pinot noir taken from four grand crus; Avize, Chouilly, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger and Ambonnay. 13% of the base wine is vinified in oak. Based on the 2004 vintage. Disgorged in 2016. Dosage is 5g/L. Tasted in Adelaide.

Femme de Champagne is Duval-Leroy’s most iconic wine and one that truly reflects the house and its history.

It offers a fresh, clean nose redolent of apple blossom, sea spray and the lightest touch of brioche. On the palate, Femme de Champagne drinks with the purity of rainwater on account of its long on-lees preservation – an incredible 12 years – quality fruit and meticulous handling. It’s fine and elegant, characterised by a light, silky texture and long, saline finish.

Agrapart Minéral Blanc de Blancs 2011 100% chardonnay taken from two old vine plots between Avize and Cramant. Vinified in stainless steel tank and oak casks. Aged for 60 months on lees. Dosage is 5g/L. Disgorged March 2018.Tasted in Adelaide.

Agrapart’s Minéral is renowned for its incredible purity without sacrificing complexity. Its youthful nose is defined by a slatey mineral tone, sea spray, bush pepper and raw cashews that reveal marzipan as aromas develop further in the glass. On the palate, it appears clean, precise and fresh yet with a delicate creaminess that tempers its racy acidity. An enjoyable lemon wedge come saline mouth-watering experience. Lovely long and dry finish too.

RRP

$250

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

|

39

RRP

$135

Louis Roederer 2013 Rosé

WINE

67% pinot noir taken from Cumières, and 33% chardonnay from Chouilly. 33% vinified in oak, 22% malolactic fermentation. Aged on lees for 4 years. Dosage is 8g/L. Tasted in Adelaide.

2013 was an unusually cool vintage for Champagne and it shows here. There is a pleasant lightness and delicacy to this wine that is gainfully youthful in appeal.

On the nose, subtle notes of raspberry and watermelon freshness accompany a dusting of Roederer’s trademark white pepper notes. The palate reflects the delicacy of the vintage with its softer, elegant structure, crisp minerality and flavours of strawberry/leaf and blueberry. Execution is smooth and without interruption from tannins. Nice length.

RRP

$85 Piper-Heidsieck Essentiel Blanc de Blancs 100% chardonnay. Vinified in stainless steel. 35% reserve wine added. Aged for 3 years on lees.

Dosage is 4g/L. Tasted in Sydney and Adelaide.

This is an intriguing offering from Piper-Heidsieck. On the nose, it’s fresh with deep notes of oyster shell, even seaweed, but with a nice warmth from Piper’s trademark toastiness. The palate takes things further, offering a darker shade of chardonnay that is more reminiscent of warm raisin toast and marmalade than primary fruits and chalk. Whilst the execution is vibrant and clean, a lovely silkiness adds elegance. The finish is long and dry.

40

|

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

Dom Pérignon 2008

RRP

$300

50% chardonnay and 50% pinot noir. Vinified in stainless steel. Aged for 8 years on lees plus 12 months on cork postdisgorgement. Tasted in Adelaide.

Dom Pérignon’s 2008 release is one of the most anticipated from this year and with little wonder, it is already drinking beautifully. The excitement, however, is only just beginning for this champagne which will go down in house history as one of the very best.

Expect something bright and pure but with some lovely complexity beginning to build. On the nose, there is lemon zest, pepper, white flowers, light autolysis and subtle smokey aromas. The palate is medium bodied and unashamedly youthful with lots of energy, clarity and focus. The finish is long and dry.

Charles Heidsieck Brut Millésimé 2006 59% pinot noir and 41% chardonnay. Vinification in stainless steel.

Aged for 9 years on lees. Dosage is 10g/L. Tasted in Reims.

RRP

$199

This is a noticeably fresher cuvée than its 2005 predecessor, characterised by the freshness of florals and grapefruit, the ripeness of stone fruits, and development of marzipan. On the palate, it’s saline and mineral but with Charles’ trademark richness and creamy texture that lends itself to a generous style of wine. A gorgeous champagne with lovely length.

RRP

$120

André Clouet V6 100% pinot noir sourced primarily from Bouzy. Aged for 6 years on lees. Dosage is 4g/L. Tasted in Sydney.

This is a big style of champagne that is not unlike its larger than life owner, Jean-Francois Clouet. The nose is developed and pronounced revealing oxidative complexity, smoke and mushrooms with some bruised fruit. On the palate, it draws its full-bodied profile from barrel ageing. It appears round and generous with notes of cooked fruit and spice box. Medium length with a slight phenolic grip on the finish.

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

|

41

WINE

Flawless: Understanding Faults in Wine

Perfectly Imperfect

Kaaren Palmer reviews Jamie Goode’s new book uncovering the beauty and disappointment we experience when wine is perfectly imperfect.

WORDS BY

Jamie Goode (www.wineanorak.com/wineblog) is a British author with a Ph.D. in plant biology. He contributes to numerous wine publications, and is the author of a number of wine books. His work, Flawless: Understanding Faults in Wine, concerning the beauty and otherwise of wine flaws, is not for the scientifically faint-hearted.

42

|

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

Kaaren Palmer

Directed mainly at oenologist winemakers, sommeliers, and the highly interested public, there is much in there that aids our understanding of the flaws that we find when concentrating on our favourite wine – champagne. Thus, for the benefit of our specialist readers, my comments are focused in that direction.

Goode's introduction and concluding comments outlining how some minor flaws can enhance beauty and make a wine interesting, find the reader nodding in agreement. Conversely, wine faults can leave us puzzling why we don't quite like a wine (champagne) that we're drinking, or why our pleasure has been diminished in some way. While lack of ripeness is now a fading problem in Champagne as the climate warms, faults in the winemaking process can occur in an atmosphere of disregard for the rules and lack of care during one of the myriad processes.

Problems such as lack of cleanliness in the winery, poorly prepared and stored barrels, insufficient oxygen during fermentation or excess oxygen during bottling, cork taint, heat and light during transportation or storage....there is plenty of room for things to go awry. I am sure that those of us who drink a lot of champagne have occasionally experienced a less-than-perfect bottle.

So here's my slightly expanded Goode-derived list of flaws applying to champagne:

B R E T TA N O MYC E S (UNCOMMON IN C H A M PA G N E S W H I C H H AV E N OT U N D E R G O N E B A R R E L F E R M E NTAT I O N O R S TO R A G E ) Aromas of animal, spice, phenols (sweet, tarry, medicinal, pharmaceutical, bandaids), lack of fruit, cheese, rancidity; a drying, metallic sensation on the back palate.

L I G HT S T R I K E ( PA RT I C U L A R LY C O M M O N W IT H U N PA C K A G E D C L E A R G L A S S B OT T L E S ) Aromas of cooked cabbage, garlic, wet wool, or oxidised aromas.

H E AT DA M A G E A prematurely aged appearance, oxidised aromas, jamminess.

OX I DAT I O N

UNRIPE GRAPES

Aromas of bruised apple, earth and spice, as well as a lack of fresh fruit aromas; a dull, over-developed appearance.

Aromas of cut grass, green capsicum.

V O L AT I L E A C I D IT Y Aromas of vinegar, balsamic vinegar, and/or nail polish remover.

R E D U CT I O N Aromas of garlic, rubber, bad drains, rotten eggs, soiled diapers, cooked cabbage / onion / asparagus, struck match. The palate can be hard, strongly mineral, and bitter, with an abruptly astringent back palate, reducing fineness and freshness of the length.

C O R K TA I NT Musty, wet dog aromas, very diminished fruit aromas; a palate with a hessian texture.

G E O S M I N ( U S UA L LY C A U S E D

BY A R A I N - A F F E CT E D HARVEST OR FROM U N F I LT E R E D W I N E ) Aromas of fresh earth, mustiness, beetroot.

MOUSINESS 'Natural' wines seem more susceptible. Expect a hint of the floor of a mouse's cage in the aftertaste.

M A LO L A CT I C F E R M E NTAT I O N ERROR Aromas of cheesy, dairy off-flavours, buttery popcorn aroma, volatile acidity (see above); bitter flavour.

I'd definitely own this book if I was a winemaker or sommelier, and I'm neither. I found it useful and interesting.

Jamie Goode Hard cover, Š 2018 The Regents of the University of California, California University Press, LCCN 2018000772, 226pp.

RRP

$A43.95

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

|

43

1869: The Birth of an Icon WINE

Moët Impérial

A chilled bottle of champagne. A celebrity raising a glass. A wide angle at an awards ceremony. A close-up at a Hollywood after-party. Flashing cameras at the Venice Film Festival. A film set on the French Riviera. And with that, the stage is set.

This year marks the birth of a champagne icon, Moët Impérial.

Over the past 150 years, Moët’s flagship has been accompanied by some unforgettable moments of celebration and glamour. Its remarkable history across time, notably moments in culture and fashion, has solidified its place as the world’s most recognised champagne.

the unique trajectory that Moët Impérial has traced on its way to becoming an icon. Founded in 1743, Moët & Chandon, was a successful champagne House for its time; its

Impérial, as it was called then, it came at a critical time in changing consumer preferences, the likes of which continues to this day.

champagnes were widely enjoyed in France and beyond. Still, sweeter champagne styles were popular. But the house sensed the beginning of a shifting preference for lower dosage, and consequently increased its production of brut champagnes.

To mark the 150th anniversary of its signature champagne, Moët & Chandon has unveiled a limited edition bottle of Moët Impérial inscribed with a redesigned logo: the “I” of “Impérial” has become a new symbol for the House’s most emblematic champagne.

Moët Impérial will be available in Australia at the end of June for RRP $70.

Where celebrities and A-listers gather, and paparazzi are on the lookout, chances are, Moët Impérial is there.

In 1869 the very first bottle of Moët & Chandon Brut Impérial, now known as Moët Impérial, was shipped from its historic headquarters in Epernay, France.

It was the starting point of an unprecedented journey, for the time, across oceans and continents, to become the Maison’s signature champagne. Along the way, Moët Impérial became a star in its own right, photographed as an icon of savoir-fête and captured by the lens of paparazzi as it was toasted by the glitterati.

It is only fitting today, on the occasion of its 150th birthday, that a spotlight be shined on its remarkable history and on

From 1869, brut styles became the overwhelming majority of Moët & Chandon’s production. When the house shipped its first order of Brut

Above: Moët Impérial champagne pyramid.

44

|

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

Left: Moët Impérial Limited Edition 150 years anniversary bottle. RRP $70 AUD. Right: Moët & Chandon has been at the centre of Hollywood glamour for many years.

Bottom: Moët & Chandon, Epernay.

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

|

45

Profiling

Ambonnay

The best pinot noir in Champagne is often described as powerful and rich. But in the case of Ambonnay, pinot noir reveals an extra element of elegance that makes champagne from this part of the Montagne de Reims some of the very best.

Sara Underdown Victor Pugatschew and Geordie Torr

WORDS BY PHOTOGRAPHY BY

Like most champagne enthusiasts, I hold some heartfelt sentiment for certain villages in Champagne which coax out qualities in chardonnay, pinot noir or meunier that I particularly like.

Aӱ or Bouzy, for example, are often cited for their rich and structurally significant pinot noir. But for me, the grand cru village of Ambonnay offers something particularly fine when it comes to the same varietal.

Flanking the south-eastern edge of the Montagne de Reims, heading south of Reims, Ambonnay is nestled between neighbouring Bouzy (to the west), Vaudemange (to the east), and Trepail (to the north). The latter two, facing more clearly to the east, is where pinot noir territory gives way to chardonnay.

By contrast, Ambonnay’s mostly southerly exposure makes it a prime location for pinot noir, although

chardonnay is grown there too, constituting a little under 20 percent of plantings out of a total 387 hectares. However, unlike Bouzy which also faces south, parts of Ambonnay slope to the southeast and the lay of the land is more undulating. It’s this difference that makes Ambonnay good for pinot noir as the slight easterly exposure moderates the ripening process, resulting in particularly elegant wines with a distinct freshness.

Top: The village of Ambonnay, taken from Atlas de la France Viticole L.Larmat, Paris

46

|

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

VINE Above: Krug’s Clos d’Ambonnay located within a 0.68 hectare walled plot in the heart of the village.

Left: Pinot noir taken from the estate of Benoît Marguet.

The soils of Ambonnay are similar to those of Bouzy; chalk constitutes around 93 percent of the structure, with the balance made up of clay and limestone.

There is more topsoil, as one heads down the slope, but chalk is almost immediately discoverable from the mid-slope upwards.

Biodynamic viticulture, and some pretty outstanding winemaking from local vignerons, has spurred on consumer interest in Ambonnay in recent years. Take, for example, the astonishingly good champagnes of Francis Egly, from Egly-Ouriet, whose wines of purity, richness and elegance have become a reference for quality grower champagne in the region. Minimal intervention in the winemaking process allows Ambonnay terroir to shine in a deeply hedonistic way with a richness and lively minerality that leaves you salivating for more.

Egly-Ouriet’s Grand Cru Blanc de Noirs Vieilles Vignes Non-Vintage is the most emblematic of Francis’ style and represents the very best of the village.

Eric Rodez is another who has risen to the top as one of Ambonnay’s leading vignerons.

His single parcel focus produces wines true to Ambonnay’s terroir, possessing a lively sense of chalk or flint minerality combined with a deliciously ripe, vinous character.

Rodez’ Dosage Zéro is a testament to its terroir, drawing on 30 percent chardonnay and 70 percent pinot noir. It’s a lesson in how good Ambonnay can be for low or no dosage champagne; approachable, bright and pure, silky and sensual.

There is also a lovely richness to the fruit and elegance uncommon in a brut nature style.

The wines of Marie-Noëlle Ledru are another good example. Her pinot noir charged cuvées have a silky elegance and are juicy, rich and lively. Wines are classically vinified in tank and see no oak. There’s no filtration, no cold stabilisation, and dosage is small. Marie-Noëlle’s Grand Cru Cuvée du Goulté is her top of the line bottling from Ambonnay which showcases the power and vinosity potential of the village, but with a strong saline finish and lingering elegance.

There are others doing magnificent things in Ambonnay as well; Benoît Marguet is one, Paul Déthune is another. Both are passionate natural wine producers.

Reaching for the stars is Krug’s Clos d’Ambonnay which heralds from a 0.68 hectare walled plot in the heart of the village. It’s a rare and decadent style of vintage blanc de noirs that comes with an equally decadent price tag. The palate reveals an elegant structure, fullness and intensity along with a prevailing finish.

Whilst Ambonnay may be known for the power and intensity of its fruit, like Bouzy, it is in fact defined by an undeniable freshness and purity from crisp acidity and noticeable minerality. What all of this translates to is an undeniable elegance that underscores wines from this part of Champagne, and makes them some of the very best.

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

|

47

Champagne...

A tasting journey Kaaren Palmer Dame-Chevalier, Ordre des Coteaux de Champagne A comprehensive introduction to the world of champagne, but importantly, a step-by-step guide to tasting and appraising champagne – the first of its kind.

Whether you’re advanced, professional or beginning on your champagne journey, Kaaren Palmer’s book allows you to select your level of interest at the moment and grow your knowledge over many tastings.

Available via Amazon

Winner of the Gourmand International Food and Wine Book Awards, Best French Wine Book 2016

$A140 + postage

Changing Seasons VINE

A Year in Champagne

Megan Barber lived the beguiling life romantics often dream about – that of a young woman moving from the far side of the world to Paris. Two years ago, she traded in her day job as a champagne house ambassador in Australia, and followed her heart all the way to France. She was in love, of course, not with a person, but with champagne.

Megan Barber Frerejean Frères and Megan Barber

WORDS BY PHOTOGRAPHY BY

“I haven’t yet tried kangaroo, is it good? I cannot believe you eat your national emblem here!” was the question posed by a curious Rodolphe Frerejean-Taittinger as we entered a restaurant by a lapis blue ocean in Bondi Beach.

It was his first visit to Sydney, representing Frerejean Frères, a small artisan champagne house that he established with brothers, Richard and Guillaume, in Avize on the Côte des Blancs. We had met, by chance, the day before at the Gault et Millau awards. At the time, I was brand manager for another champagne house. We bonded immediately over our shared vocation – champagne.

Winter I relocated to Paris at the end of 2017, trading champagne in Australia for Australian wine in France - yes, I see the irony. I had sacrificed my dream job for an opportunity to live in a culture that fascinated me and to advance my career. Rodolphe quickly became a trusted and welcomed ally.

Bitter sleet fell on the glass ceiling of Ristorante National, Hôtel des Arts et Métiers as we shared ideas regarding champagne and our individual strategies for ProWein, Düsseldorf. Paris had an unusually generous dusting of snow for that time of year.

“You must come and visit the maison in Avize. It is magnificent,” he said.

Naturally, I accepted the invitation, and Avize soon became a favourite escape from Paris. A left hand turn from Jacques Selosse and a stone’s throw from L’Église SaintNicolas, led to Frerejean Frères in the centre of the town. The facade looked golden in colour, and appeared as warm and inviting as the people inside.

Didier Pierson, chef de cave, greeted me like an old friend. Step-by-step we descended into the cellar with its white chalk pebbles embedded in the walls, gleaming as warm lights guided our way.

Didier explained the history of the family: The Frerejean-Taittinger brothers were born to two old families from the region. Their mother was a Taittinger, related to one of Champagne's best known and largest champagne houses. The original Frerejean brothers, Georges and Louis, were master blacksmiths, operating their forge to manufacture cannons for Emperor Napoleon Bonaparte during the Napoleonic Wars.

“A left hand turn from Jacques Selosse and a stone’s throw from L’Église Saint-Nicolas, led to Frerejean Frères in the centre of the town.”

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

|

49

VINE The Frerejean-Taittinger brothers

Richard, Guillaume and Rodolphe were raised between Paris and Avize.

Rolling vineyards had been their childhood playground, a precursor to what would become; the founding of their small maison in 2005. As adults, the Frerejeans produced and collated a secret collection of cuvées guided by a vision of what a great champagne should be – mature, elegant and complex. Didier is himself a fifth generation grape grower from Avize and has known the Frerejean-Taittinger brothers for many years. The fondness that Didier holds for the brothers was palpable as we continued the tour through the winery. Between them, there is absolute trust where the brothers’ vision for terroir-driven cuvées, true to the Côte des Blancs, comes together with Didier’s skilful execution.

pinot noir sourced from grand and premier cru plots acquired in Avize, Le Mesnil sur Oger, Chouilly and Cramant. On the land, a heightened approach to sustainable viticulture is employed.

In the cellar, Didier prefers enamel lined tanks, sometimes with a small passage of time in barrels as well as long ageing to enhance the vivacity of wines. Impressively, cuvées are aged for at least four to five years and a maximum of twelve; time is allowed to take its course.

“Rolling vineyards had been their childhood playground, a precursor to what would become; the founding of their small maison in 2005.”

An almost Burgundian approach underscores the estate, working exclusively with chardonnay and

50

|

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

Speaking of time, the hours flew with Didier…I was very late for a boat party on the Marne.

Spring “We are going to Champagne; shall we all go together?” was the text message I received from Rodolphe and his business partner, Florestan.

Everyone was in fine form, jovial and full of banter, as we piled into

a car in the centre of Paris and headed for our beloved Champagne.

Winding our way through the streets of Epernay, the vote was unanimous; take the off-road route.

“Around that time, Frerejean Frères was starting to gain some international recognition, and demand for their cuvées was increasing.”

And so we bumped and bounced across the dusty roads, skirting the vineyards as Florestan listed facts about the region, and Rodolphe pointed out places of interest and reminisced about his childhood.

We arrived, much to the delight of Didier, who was waiting to greet us. Around that time, Frerejean Frères was starting to gain some international recognition, and demand for their cuvées was increasing. The neighbouring property and caves had been

acquired to accommodate increased production.

The walls of the cellar were lined with crates and the riddling racks of resting cuvées, noticeable for their signature clear bottles, displayed the magnificent gold of blanc de blancs contained within, or a flash of blush from the rosé. Alongside, there were racks of vintage-green bottles housing the superb VV26 and Cuvée des Hussards.

But we were there to inspect the grapes. It was late springtime and warmer than usual. 2018 was shaping up to be an exceptional, even remarkable, year. The quality of the grapes was near perfect and yield potential was looking high.

As we said our farewells, it was agreed that I would return for harvest.

Summer At Frerejean Frères, as they waited for optimal ripeness and flavour, harvest came a little later than for others across the Côte des Blancs.

I awoke early to a regular day of grey skies interspersed with patches of blue. We were at the turn of the season, but it was still warm – a perfect day for picking. We jumped into the van and drove across to Le Mesnil-sur-Oger. Stumbling across the chalky terrain, I climbed my way to the top of a hill and examined the view. Vineyards fell away toward the village adorned with terracotta and granite roofs, while the steeple of L’Église Saint-Nicolas, to the right, and Réserve Naturelle des Pâtis d'Oger, stood tall. We inspected the grapes. They were perfect: round and luscious.

Once harvested, we raced our precious cargo around the corner of the cellars to the basket press.

Didier had prepared everything with precision. Pressing began and I watched as the juice ran free. It would be at least another four years until the 2018 vintage would be seen again.

“At Frerejean Frères, as they waited for optimal ripeness and flavour, harvest came a little later than for others across the Côte des Blancs.”

Left: Megan Barber harvesting, in 2018.

Right: Frerejean Frères' vineyards in Avize.

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

|

51

Above: Maison Frerejean Frères, Avize.

Top Right: Didier Pierson, chef de cave.

Right: Winter in Avize.

Autumn I returned to a land so very different to the one I had left behind.

Champagne was awash with shades of gold, burnt orange and brown as the deciduous vines began shedding

“Champagne was awash with shades of gold, burnt orange and brown as the deciduous vines began shedding their foliage prior to winter.”

52

|

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

their foliage prior to winter. I was running late for my appointment at Frerejean Frères. Didier was there - as always - to greet me, only this time as a friend and mentor.

“Didier, this is the last time I will see you before I depart for Australia at Christmas,” I said with some sadness.

“Then we shall share a drink!” was his reply as he revealed a bottle of Rosé 2012, seemingly from nowhere.

Winter A French paradox: we sat at Canard and Champagne in Passage des Panoramas in Paris, drinking Frerejean Frères Blanc de Blancs.

It was just a few days until my

departure, and, like old friends, Rodolphe and I discussed the past and the future.

“In just a short year, you have very much become a part of our Frerejean Frères family,” were Rodolphe’s kind words. I felt blessed beyond words for being invited into the inner circle of this unusual and wonderful champagne producer.

The quality and beauty of their cuvées mirrored the team's warmth and generosity to me.

A change in season, back to winter, marked the passage of my time in France. My romantic dream had been reality for just four short seasons.

VINE

Climate

Change

In 2003, Champagne was the first wine growing region in the world to conduct a carbon footprint assessment. 16 years on, the region has achieved significant environmental progress under a collective approach to preserve its heritage and meet the expectations of consumers worldwide.

Sara Underdown P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y Victor Pugatschew and Sara Underdown WORDS BY

Vineyards along the Marne Valley

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

|

53

Champagne’s famous terroir has its genesis in the unique attributes of its environment. A chalk subsoil and the challenges of an extreme northerly climate made blending a necessary but unintentional part of Champagne’s winemaking from the middle ages. Grapes of different varieties from different sites were grown by vignerons, given to the church, pressed, fermented and blended to improve quality and balance of final wines.

may have been fortuitous in early days, their formalisation under the Comité Champagne has ensured ongoing benefits via a consenting approach for the protection and promotion of champagne.

Although, it hasn’t been without challenges.

“In the last 30 years, Champagne’s average temperature has increased by 1.2 ºC with a corresponding change in blossoming and harvest dates, moving forward by a fortnight.”

Interdependence between growers and the producers became inextricably linked from this point on; establishing a large but informally organised system of growers to supply grapes from geographically diverse sites to producers who would ultimately blend and bottle.

The advent of World War II and subsequent formation of the Comité Interprofessionnel du vin de Champagne (now Comité Champagne) in 1941 was a bellwether for change in more ways than one. Whilst interdependencies

54

|

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

As the dust settled on World War II, and the global economy got back on track, demand for champagne skyrocketed but supply fell short. At the time, the region was struggling to overcome the devastating economic and farming effects of two world wars, phylloxera and poor weather. Champagne responded by doubling its appellation size between 1950 and 1970 to increase

production. From the 1970s, yields were maximised using newly available chemical farming applications, more mechanized farming methods were engaged, higher-yielding clones were adapted in the 1980s and the business of making champagne became big.

Environmentally, things were also beginning to change; temperatures were heating up. In the last 30 years, Champagne’s average temperature has increased by 1.2ºC with a corresponding change in blossoming and harvest dates, moving forward by a fortnight.

The Comité Champagne has stated that a small increase in temperature is in fact desirable if the increase is limited to around 2ºC, but what happens if things are less than optimistic?

Over the past two decades, the industry has reckoned with its post-war approach in the context of climate change challenges. A sustainable winegrowing strategy is now widely accepted by growers

Above: Vineyards along the Marne Valley Right: Aÿ Pinot Noir

and producers as the region’s future, designed to preserve and enhance its unique terroir for the sake of the environment, heritage and quality of wine.

It’s a topic that headlines the industry’s collective environmental agenda, spearheaded by the Comité Champagne, as part of the ‘Champagne Climate Change Plan’ launched in 2003 to reduce carbon emissions 75 percent by 2050.

Under the plan, stakeholders are encouraged to make leaps in their journey toward environmental sustainability. Collective progress is being made through completion of 15,000 individual progress plans of growers or producers involved in either minimum levels of sustainable viticulture or organic winegrowing. But the process itself has been entirely voluntary, administered through self-assessment or via certification.

Environmentale) certification.

Launched in 2014 by the Comité Champagne, the VDC is the most customised of the two, targeted specifically at the Champagne appellation. Fronting the agenda is: vines and wine (encouraging people to implement sustainable winegrowing methods); transport and travel (putting forward cleaner transport solutions); buildings

low carbon footprint); and active involvement (contributing to a collective commitment).

Introduced a few years earlier in 2009, the HVE corresponds to the highest level of environmental certification for farms, administered

by France’s Ministry of Agriculture, and covers four areas similar to the VDC. However, it differs from the VDC by offering higher ‘levels’ of certification. For example, HVE2 (similar to the VDC), and HVE3, which places greater restrictions on use of chemicals.

“Since inception of the Champagne Climate Change Plan 16 years ago, environmental performance has progressed substantially.”

Certification may be attained in two ways; via the VDC (Viticulture Durable en Champagne) or France’s HVE (Haute Valeur

(improving building energy efficiency); responsible procurement of goods and services (opting for a

Since inception of the Champagne Climate Change Plan 16 years ago, environmental performance has progressed substantially. After almost completely eradicating

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

|

55

VINE

insecticides across the region through sexual confusion techniques, the industry body has set its sights on herbicides which are still blanket-sprayed across 65 percent of vines.

progress isn’t fast enough. For others, it’s too demanding. What is clear is that these initial actions are a necessary first step for the region to collectively improve their commitment to the environment.

In late 2018, the Presidents of the Union of Champagne Houses and Champagne Growers Union set two key objectives for the Champagne region: zero herbicide by 2025 and 100 percent of vineyards certified by 2030. It signals a massive step forward, and solid commitment, by the region as a collective.

Organic and biodynamic certification is the next logical step forward to be truly ecological, but

“In late 2018, the Presidents of the Union of Champagne Houses and Champagne Growers Union set two key objectives for the Champagne region: zero herbicide by 2025 and 100 percent of vineyards certified by 2030.”

Biodiversity and ecosystems have also improved.

New approaches to environmentally friendly soil management based on increased cover cropping has greatly improved groundwater management and over 95 percent of the edges of growing plots have grass coverage. There has also been a five-fold increase in organic plantings which has boosted biodiversity inventories such as bird species, worms and plant varieties.

There are now 356 different varieties of flora of which nine are included on the ‘red list’ of endangered species within Champagne-Ardenne.

Early results have also been seen in the area of champagne packaging.

Producers now procure lighter bottles, reducing bottle weight by seven percent overall. This has cut emissions by 15 percent in 10 years (2003-2013) which equates to taking 4,000 cars off the road. In addition, 100 percent of sub-products and 90 percent of waste is sorted and recycled to recover energy.

None of this would be possible without panoptic participation from growers and producers.

However, for some, the speed of

56

|

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

it comes with some serious risks to winegrowers on account of the climate’s wet weather and the vines’ predisposition to mildew and rot. On the other hand, there is a growing belief that vintage challenges such as the difficult 2017 vintage - are mitigated by sustainable vineyard management.

size. Clicquot also incentivises their growers and provides technical support for those farming grapes herbicide-free.

Champagne’s collective quest to prepare for climate change and preserve the environment has made interdependency stronger than ever; especially as houses are increasingly scrutinised for their environmental credentials. A ‘carrot and stick’ mechanism is gradually being put in place to secure the region’s future whereby industry leaders are showing more direction and making firm commitments toward environmental progress, major houses are incentivising growers to convert from unsustainable practices, and VDC certification is made less complicated and more affordable to attain.

Notwithstanding these excellent developments, the region could also institute a tiered VDC certification (such as VDC2 and VDC3) modelled on the HVE program to encourage even more progress, especially by growers.

“Champagne’s collective quest to prepare for climate change and preserve the environment has made interdependency stronger than ever.”

Another dimension in all of this is the role of major houses in moving stakeholders forward.

By way of example, Veuve Clicquot – Champagne’s second largest producer at more than 18 million bottles annually – began a zero herbicide policy in 2016 which is unprecedented for a house of this

Irrespective of the speed with which these initiatives are being undertaken, what is clear is that the region is moving forward together as a result of collective action.

By keeping the focus on terroir, which initially brought growers and producers together due to the strong need for interdependency, Champagne will keep its global repute and preserve its heritage for future generations.

PEOPLE

Trade

Relations

Get to know the faces behind the brands in this Q&A with two of Australia’s importers for champagne.

Sally McGill, National Marketing Manager – Imports, Joval Wine Group

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

|

57

PEOPLE

Sally McGill National Marketing Manager – Imports Joval Wine Group @louisroederer_ @redandwhiteau W www.louisroederer.com

W H AT D O YO U D O ?

In July this year I will celebrate 25 years as National Imports Manager at Joval Wine Group, trading as red+white, Mezzanine, and The Fine Wine Specialist.

W H AT I S YO U R B A C KG R O U N D ?

My life has turned out completely different to how I imagined. I grew up on a farm in South-East Queensland with parents who encouraged my sisters and I to pursue a career. I earned a Diploma of Primary Teaching and a Certificate in Commercial Cookery, but decided neither was for me.

Instead, I headed to Europe with nothing but a backpack for six months, which turned into six years. I entered the wine trade in London, with a WSET Diploma, working for a company focused on French wines. But I had a taste for Italian food, wines and culture and decided to try life there when my UK visa expired. After a lot of hard work and perseverance, I learnt the language and gained a work permit. Missing family, however, was the impetus to finally come home, but I vowed to find a job which would allow me to maintain close ties with Europe.

D E S C R I B E T H E LO U I S R O E D E R E R S T Y L E – W H AT M A K E S IT A P P E A L I N G TO AUSTRALIANS? Louis Roederer’s style is pinot noir dominant with plenty of richness and body, elegance, vibrancy and drinkability. The true test for any wine, and perhaps even moreso for non-vintage champagne, is the enjoyment and satisfaction of the first glass, leaving you wanting a second. Louis Roederer’s balanced, 58

|

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

fine and fresh style ticks all these boxes. Their vintage champagnes show place of origin plus complexity.

Most are sourced from particular villages year in, year out: Blanc de Blancs from Avize; Vintage Rosé using pinot noir from Cumières combined with north facing Chouilly for chardonnay; Cristal Rosé using pinot noir from Aӱ, Cristal Brut sourced from Verzenay, Verzy, Beaumont-sur-Vesle, Aӱ, Cramant, Avize and Le Mesnilsur-Oger.

W H O A R E YO U R C U S TO M E R S ?

Louis Roederer appeals to drinkers who appreciate attention to detail, quality and consistency, while also seeking a premium champagne. Australia is a top champagne market, especially when you consider we have only 26 million inhabitants. As a result, a large portion of champagne consumed is price competitive.

Jean-Claude Rouzaud, who was company Chairman for over 30 years, spent a great deal of time and resources improving the quality of their Brut Premier, the first port of call for most Louis Roederer drinkers. Frederic Rouzaud and Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon carry on following his maxim ‘quality without compromise‘ and have, more recently, focused on vintage cuvées, especially vineyards. Louis Roederer’s domaine spans 240 hectares and averages 98 percent on the old échelle des crus classification system.

W H AT I S YO U R B R A N D S T R AT E G Y F O R LO U I S R O E D E R E R ?

Louis Roederer is all about premium quality and prestige. As a result, we seek to partner with similarly positioned restaurants as well as a diverse range of luxury

Louis Roederer Vintage. Pinot noir grapes are sourced from north-east facing slopes on the Montagne de Reims to create its signature style.

brands such as a Hermès, Chanel and SailGP, as well as luxury resorts including the Baillie Group, Four Seasons and Lizard Island. At the same time, we want Louis Roederer to be accessible to consumers of fine wines, and is therefore available in fine wine retail outlets across the country.

W H AT G E N E R A L T R E N D S / C U S TO M E R I NT E R E S T D O YO U S E E E M E R G I N G I N A U S T R A L I A W H E N IT C O M E S TO C H A M PA G N E ?

There has been a burgeoning interest in grower champagne in recent years. What people are coming to realise is that Louis Roederer is effectively a grower, owning a minimum of 70 percent of vineyards required for total production, purchasing around 40 percent of their requirements for their Brut Premier only. Whilst they are considered a Grandes Marques, Louis Roederer is unique in having such control over the quality of their fruit source. The advantage they have over most growers is that they own vineyards across the three most important growing regions (Côte des Blancs, Vallée de la Marne, and Montagne de Reims). In this way they can produce a more consistent and complex set of cuvées in most vintages, and reserve the right to not produce vintage cuvées, especially Cristal, if the conditions have not produced optimal quality.

Consumers are also looking for environmental sustainability and authenticity. Louis Roederer is, today, still family owned by seventh generation, Frederic Rouzaud, as President. With Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon as chef de cave since 1999, they have been working on a biodynamic path since 2000. Today, some 122 hectares are organically certified including 10 hectares which are certified biodynamic. However, all 122 hectares

are treated biodynamically. The balance of vineyards are sustainably farmed. Jean-Baptiste says he “quickly saw that vineyards farmed biodynamically brought more freshness, more chalkiness, more intensity and more complexity”. Cristal Rosé is today 100 percent biodynamic and Cristal Brut 2012 will be 100 percent biodynamic when released this year. In 2012 Louis Roederer became the largest biodynamic producer in Champagne.

Louis Roederer’s sustainably farmed vineyards.

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

|

59

W H AT A R E S O M E O F T H E B E S T PA I R I N G S YO U ’ V E E X P E R I E N C E D W IT H LO U I S R O E D E R E R C H A M PA G N E S ?

Cristal 2002 with salmon and asparagus cooked Japanese hibachi style, 2002 Vintage Brut with Chilli Crab, Cristal 1996 with veal in a sauce of morelle mushrooms, 2010 Blanc de Blancs with coffin bay oysters au naturel and 2008 Vintage Brut with raw ocean trout, spring vegetables and quinoa salad.

A R E W E E X P E CT I N G A NY T H I N G N E W F R O M T H E H O U S E I N T H E N E X T 1 2 M O NT H S ?

There are always new vintages coming, such as Louis Roederer Vintage Rosé 2013 which has just been released and, later in the year, we will move to Blanc de Blancs 2011, Vintage Brut 2013 and - possibly very late in 2019 - to Cristal 2012 (neither 2010 nor 2011 were produced for Cristal). Perhaps the most anticipated release for

60

|

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

2019, however, will be the Brut Nature 2012, just the third release from Louis Roederer’s zero dosage range, produced only in warm years where dosage is not required. For the very first time a small amount of Brut Nature Rosé 2012 will also be released!

W H AT I S T H E B E S T PA RT A B O U T YO U R J O B ?

Working with some of the best, most authentic wines and wineries in the world. Being with the one company and owner over so many years means I have been able to forge strong relationships with local colleagues as well as our European winemakers and winery representatives.

After a roundabout journey I found my place.

Louis Roederer Cristal 2008. Declared by cellar master, JeanBaptiste Lécaillon, as his best Cristal to date

PEOPLE

Matthew Wallace Buyer and Sales Manager Wine Direct @winedirect.com.au W www.winedirect.com.au

W H AT D O YO U D O ?

I am the Buyer and Sales Manager for Wine Direct, a South Australian, independently owned online wine retailer. Wine Direct has been around for 28 years, but only in the last five years have we started importing.

Other than champagne, we bring in some Italian reds.

Our point of difference is that we source directly from producers and then sell directly to customers through our online store. Therefore, we can offer value for money.

As Buyer and Sales Manager, the most important part of my job is sourcing products from here and overseas that will appeal to customers, but also be profitable.

Our champagne producers have a story around their wines. For us, it’s about telling a story and not just selling things in bulk.

W H AT I S YO U R B A C KG R O U N D ?

I completed a Bachelor of Arts (with honours in English) at Flinders University. I then started working at a bottle shop because I thought they’d pay me in wine! It worked out well because it led me to Neville Rowe from Domaine Chandon and my first vintage job. For a few years after I worked in retail, during which time I met Dan Pannell from Picardy Wines, Western Australia, and asked him for a vintage job. To my surprise he rang me a few months later with a full-time job offer working at the cellar door and in the winery. It was great because I learned a lot about growing grapes and making wine.

Then I thought, I’d better make some money. An opportunity came up to move back to South Australia, so I took it. I’ve been here now for 14 years selling wine, then as a buyer, and now as a shareholder. It’s lovely to have an opportunity to do something different.

Whilst commercial pragmatism said to go and find champagne products for our business, I have always enjoyed champagne. A few years before we started importing, a mate shared a 1985 Salon and 1985 Krug Clos du Mesnil with me. I thought, wow they’re amazing. And on my first visit to ProWein I sat down with Alice Paillard, from Bruno Paillard, and tried their wines. I remember thinking, I could actually drink that for the rest of my life.

D E S C R I B E T H E D I F F E R E NT S T Y L E S O F YO U R PRODUCERS Most of our range focuses on chardonnay, which has been by accident. We started importing champagne around four years ago after I visited the region and met with the Le Mesnil cooperative. We decided to bring them in after their Australian importers closed down, along with Bernard Remy. We got lucky with Le Mesnil, they make beautiful champagnes. The next cab off the rank was Bouché Père & Fils, which produces blends with a chardonnay focus. More recently, we started importing Roger Brun.

Bernard Remy is located in Allemant, in the Sézannais.

They have vineyards mostly planted to chardonnay, including in the Côte des Blancs. Their style is fruit focused, and offers some lovely Christmassy notes. It’s also easy drinking but there’s complexity too. Most of

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

|

61

Portfolio of champagne from Wine Direct which includes Bernard Remy, Roger Brun, Bouché, and Le Mesnil.

PEOPLE their champagnes spend three or four years on lees and tend to be a little richer than the Le Mesnil range. Of the three cuvées we bring in, two are entirely chardonnay.

Their entry level products compete well in terms of price.

Le Mesnil is a growers’ cooperative bringing together 553 different growers, all of whom have their vineyards in the grand cru village of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger. The village has chalk rich soils, planted to chardonnay. Their style is profoundly mineral with piercing clarity of fruit, yet there is a lovely creamy texture across the range.

Bouché Père & Fils is based in Pierry, a premier cru village in the Vallée de la Marne, one of nine villages they source fruit from. Their style is quite fine and delicate and each of their cuvées has long ageing, spending between four and ten years on lees. Their style reminds me of Ruinart.

Our newest producer is Roger Brun, owned and managed by Philippe Brun, a person who is as characterful in real life as his wines. Based in the grand cru village of Aӱ, Roger Brun’s style is breathtakingly flavourful and complex. These are great wines showcasing the glory of pinot noir, fermented in oak, with chardonnay playing second fiddle. Expect lots of strength, yet finesse and freshness from lemony citrus ceding to butter and toast.

W I L L W E S E E A NY T H I N G N E W F R O M YO U I N T H E N E X T 1 2 M O NT H S ?

I hope so. Bouché has a vineyard planted to meunier, so a 100 percent meunier champagne will be released 62

|

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

later this year. I’ve also had a number of meetings with producers from my annual trip to Champagne and ProWein, so there will most likely be another producer added to our portfolio by the end of 2019.

Over the years, we’ve met with a hundred or more different producers in Champagne and at ProWein.

Our strategy has been to establish the first few brands before looking to diversify. We have extended our range with Roger Brun, which makes pinot noir dominant champagnes. But, ultimately, we want to offer producers who can provide a value proposition for our customers.

W H AT G E N E R A L T R E N D S / C U S TO M E R I NT E R E S T D O YO U S E E E M E R G I N G I N A U S T R A L I A W H E N IT C O M E S TO C H A M PA G N E ?

We haven’t really noticed an obvious trend in consumer preference toward one style or another. Our philosophy is; so long as we’re confident in the quality of the product and can offer it in a way that is sincere, then why bother following trends?

People, in general, have been showing more interest in champagne, particularly in the last year or so. With that, an increased interest in grower champagne has emerged.

W H AT C H A M PA G N E I S YO U R B I G G E S T SELLER? Bernard Remy’s Carte Blanche sells for $49. It’s our best seller, but I’m surprised by how much we sell of the more expensive cuvées.

Left: Vineyards, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger.

Right: One of the hero champagnes from Wine Direct’s portfolio; the refined and textural non-vintage blanc de blancs from the Le Mesnil Cooperative.

W H O A R E YO U R C U S TO M E R S ?

Our customers are a very good mix of people, although represented above the age of 30. We get a combination of wine fanatics who will cellar their wine, but most are buying to drink now.

At least a few times a year, we send out an email to customers with details of our producers and what their point of difference is, without being disrespectful to larger champagne houses.

From a trade perspective, we’d like to develop more relationships in each state, particularly with venues, but we’re not in a hurry. Getting champagne into venues can be challenging because the sommeliers and other staff need in-depth information to help customers make educated decisions.

70 percent of our business is on the eastern seaboard with tastings and education sessions. We use these opportunities to sell the romance of the history of the grower.

W H AT I S T H E B E S T PA RT A B O U T YO U R J O B ?

Drinking champagne! Honestly, I think the best part is being exposed to so many different types of wines and the opportunity to travel, not just overseas but across Australia.

Also, seeing how interested consumers have become in wine over recent years has been an enjoyable part of my job. Australians are more sophisticated than ever.

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

|

63

Vin de Champagne Awards PEOPLE

A Short History

Australia’s Vin de Champagne Awards celebrated its 43rd Anniversary last year. Over the course of its history, it has become prestigious and fiercely contested by professionals and non-professionals alike. But despite its long heritage, relatively little is known about its origins. Jim Smith and Sara Underdown investigate some of the events, and personalities, that have inspired the creation and continuation of the Awards.

WORDS BY

Jim Smith and Sara Underdown Belinda Rolland

PHOTOGRAPHY BY

2018 marked the 43rd year of the Vin de Champagne Awards in Australia, a unique accolade that forms part of the Comité Champagne's worldwide promotional activities on behalf of houses, wine growers and cooperatives.

The award was first held in 1974, originally sponsored by the Comité Interprofessionnel du Vin de Champagne (CIVC), before changing its name to Comité Champagne, and promoted through the Champagne Information Centre (CIC) in Sydney. The Director of the CIC for the first years of the award was Helen Birch, followed by Clara Chapman. But it wasn’t until the appointment of Holly Kerr (Forsyth) as Director in 1979 that the award gained some traction with wine savvy audiences across Australia. The ensuing 22 years involved Kerr organising and promoting the award, during which time it became

prestigious and fiercely contested with entries received from all over Australia. Interest was largely driven by increasingly discerning consumers after Kerr opened the award to include members of the general public. The prize for each category winner was an all expenses paid study trip to Champagne to experience and learn about the land, its people, and the fine wines of Champagne.

took over the role. Her replacement was Elisabeth Drysdale, a young public relations professional. A few years later, it was decided that the Awards - which were held annually - should continue every second year after 2004. Nonetheless, the Awards continued to grow in popularity and prestige, becoming one of Australia’s most sought-after accolades for wine professionals.

Past winners of the Award have been kept engaged with various informal gatherings, from time-totime, and opportunities to keep their passion for champagne alive. In 2003 and 2014, Drysdale arranged for winners to return to Champagne as guests of the CIVC / Comité Champagne, representing the 30th and 40th anniversaries of the award. The intention was for winners to refamiliarise themselves with the region and to, once again, enjoy the famous Champenois hospitality.

“The award was first held in 1974, originally sponsored by the Comité Interprofessionnel du Vin de Champagne (CIVC), before changing its name to Comité Champagne, and promoted through the Champagne Information Centre (CIC) in Sydney.”

64

|

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

Kerr left her post on a high in 2001, with champagne exports to Australia reaching almost 1.5 million bottles in 2000, up from over half a million when she first

Below Left: An excerpt from Le Courrier Australien.

Below: Winners’ trophys from the 2018 Vin de Champagne Awards

At the end of 2016, Drysdale resigned, and in November 2017, her long-standing assistant, John Noble, was appointed Director of the Champagne Bureau (the CIC had by then been renamed the Champagne Bureau). The most recent Awards, in 2018, were Noble’s first in his own right as Director.

When the Award was introduced in 1974, Evans was on the board of the Catering Institute of Australia and it was through the Catering Institute magazine, The Australian Catering Journal, that the first Vin de Champagne Award competition, in association with the CIC, was

or not she was the original Director of the CIC, Helen Birch was certainly involved in the running of the Award up until 1975 or 1976 when Clara Chapman took over the role. The first reference to the CIC’s existence in Australia is reported in the Sydney French language newspaper Le Courrier Australien.

“Len Evans’ association with Charles Heidsieck and Champagne historian, François Bonal, may have inspired the original award and how it was established with cooperation from the CIVC.”

Unusually, and despite its long history in Australia, the origin of the Awards remains unclear. What is known, however, is that it grew out of an association between the CIVC and the Catering Institute of Australia.

The likely catalyst was the Welsh-Australian wine judge and wine merchant, Len Evans. Evans had been a pioneering advocate of wine and food education since his arrival in Australia in 1955. His association with Charles Heidsieck and Champagne historian, François Bonal, may have inspired the original award and how it was established with cooperation from the CIVC.

announced. Entry forms were available through the state offices of the Catering Institute of Australia.

In 1971, the CIVC established the CIC as an outlet for information about the champagne industry and as a liaison point for champagne distributors in Australia. Whether

For its first six years, the Award had been the exclusive domain of those employed in the catering or hospitality industries. What Holly Kerr did was to open it up to nonprofessionals (or people who simply loved champagne) for the very first time in 1980.

An entirely new category was thus created for amateurs and, in 1996, a third category for students. The latter permitted those under the age of 25, employed or studying in the hospitality industry, to enter and potentially win a trip to study the wine of Champagne.

The student award was later discontinued in 2010.

Champagne Information Centre Established in Australia (Sydney) August 27, 1971 (Translation) Champagne is doing well, it's a fact. But it will be better in Australia now thanks to an information organisation that has just been established in Sydney by the Interprofessional Champagne Wine Committee.

Simply titled "Champagne Information Center" this office will from time-to-time distribute an informative leaflet called “Long live the difference" and institute a library, a photo library and cinematography relating to the knowledge of this elixir. In Sydney, this organisation responds by telephone to number 26 3710, whereas in Melbourne its number is 61 3671.

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

|

65

Left: Douglas Lamb’s winner’s trip itinerary to Champagne, 1976.

Bottom: Champagne as guests arrive at the 2018 Vin de Champagne Awards.

amazed by the knowledge and expertise of many non-professionals who, in many cases, outshine those in the professional category.

When reflecting on her time as Director, Kerr says the Awards were important for spreading the message of champagne with a capital ‘C’, to distinguish it from other sparkling wines.

“Including non-professionals in the Award was very effective at extending interest in ‘real’ champagne to many more people than just the professionals. It did that, and it also created a great group of educators who went forth and did the work of the CIC,” she says.

Kerr’s stroke of genius, in making the Awards more accessible, was arguably the single most important factor in putting Australia on the map, and in the minds, of champagne producers in those early years. Interest in the awards soared

“Kerr’s stroke of genius, in making the Awards more accessible, was arguably the single most important factor in putting Australia on the map, and in the minds, of champagne producers in those early years.”

66

|

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

from this point on, attracting a diversity of entries from journalists, florists, accountants, pharmacists, school teachers, librarians, and academics – to name a few. To this day, judges of the Awards are

An allocation of champagne stock was organised by Kerr at the beginning of each year and given to winners for dinners and other events held on behalf of the CIC. It was a great success. Increased support from champagne producers and their importers naturally ensued.

“They [champagne producers] could see I was doing a committed job and so securing support, and stock, from the houses was never an issue.”

Bottom: All the finalists from the 2018 Vin de Champagne Awards.

And when it came to the judging panel, Kerr rotated panelists (with the exception of industry stalwart, James Halliday), to attract support from a diverse cross-section of wine industry representatives.

slight upward trend as consumers diversify their interest into other areas of champagne such as varying styles of rosé and prestige cuvées.

There is no doubt that the Awards, and overall operations, of the CIC/

“Since inception of the Awards, champagne sales have grown exponentially from around half a million bottles in 1970 to 8.4 million bottles today.”

An adjunct to the Awards was a dedicated champagne importers’ club, Kerr had pioneered, to flesh out issues and make plans for the future of champagne in Australia. The initiative came at the right time for importers who were beginning to experience challenges from the rise of other sparkling wines.

Since inception of the Awards, champagne sales have grown exponentially from around half a million bottles in 1970 to 8.4 million bottles today. Champagne sales, by value, have also demonstrated a

Champagne Bureau has contributed enormously to Australia’s insatiable appetite for champagne over the last 45 years, despite a dramatic increase in the quality of locally produced sparkling wines and new bubbly entrants from Spain, Italy and Germany.

Communications Director of the Comité Champagne, Thibaut Le Mailloux, says that the Awards have been instrumental in their Australian agenda.

“The Vin de Champagne Awards allows us to expand the impact of our activities and to reach thousands of wine drinkers who are interested in knowing more about champagne on a national scale. It is necessary as champagne education allows us to communicate why this wine is unique and to give [consumers] keys to champagne appreciation.”

PEOPLE

The launch of the Awards each year was another critical factor in raising champagne’s profile. Launches were a big media affair around an extensive tasting event, usually held at the French Trade Commissioner’s House in Sydney.

As champagne continues to climb in popularity and profile, a small army of highly motivated and knowledgeable champagne aficionados has emerged, prepared to spend a lifetime as ambassadors promoting the region and wines of Champagne.

Le Mailloux says that these devotees are ‘influencers’ important for the future of communicating the message of champagne as recipients of the Vin de Champagne Award.

“Sommeliers and all wine professionals are of course a key target group for Comité Champagne because they are the gatekeepers to wine and champagne consumers.

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

|

67

Left: Guests at Quay Restaurant, Sydney, for the 2018 Vin de Champagne Awards.

Right: Holly Kerr Forsyth, Director of the Champagne Information Centre from 1979 to 2001.

However, the Comité Champagne has always targeted other wine professionals (bloggers and writers, distributors, bottle shop owners, wine educators, etc.) as they also are key influencers, being either in direct contact with the consumers or impacting the image of champagne – they are crucial to keeping champagne both relevant and fashionable everyday!” he affirms.

No less than 80 people have been consecrated ambassadors for Champagne as recipients of the Vin de Champagne Award.

The extent to which each has gone on to further the cause is variable, but what is for sure is the greater impact the Awards has had on educating Australians that champagne only comes from Champagne - the plight of which is to protect the appellation and, in doing so, the wines of its producers.

This, above all, is the greatest legacy of Australia’s Vin de Champagne Awards.

68

|

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

Winners of the Vin de Champagne Award from inception to the present day 1974 1975 1976 1977 1978 1979 1980 1981 1982 1983 1984 1985 1986 1987 1988 1989 1990 1991 1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2006 2008 2010 2012 2014 2014 2016 2018

Professional Non-professional Jack Monti Anders Ousback Douglas Lamb Remio Galea George Truby Ed Jouault Colin Voerman Noel Leyshon Christopher Shanahan Paul Hudson Nick Bulleid Martin Gillam Susan Allen Stephen Leslie Huon Hooke Bernadette O’Shea Peter Scudamore-Smith Bill Pannell Adrian Marsden-Smedley James Smith Patrick Iland Louis Papaelias Stuart Ziegler Edward Johnson Geoffrey Goodworth Anne Sharp Peter Bourne Philip Paterson John Elliott Greg Luke Colin Gaetjens Lexie Thompson Paul Foster Ken Gargett Paul Boothby Adam Hutchinson Jan Douglas Simon Moss Wendy Wade Tracy Mann Steve Charters Craig Drummond Henk van den Bergen Helen Banks John Cooke Michael Wheatley Cameron Hills John Keenan Katherine McIntyre Bernard Setford Christian Maier Jane Bromley 30th Anniversary Trip to Champagne Pamela Lincoln Debra Hartmann David Donald Martin McAdam Martin Williams John Leydon Greg Plowes Tim Sullivan Dan Buckle Matthew Stutsel 40th Anniversary Trip to Champagne Annette Lacey Tom Worrell Cameron O'Keefe Nicole Goodyer Leanne Altmann Nicole Smith

Student

Rebecca Hopkins Astrid Lewis Sophie Swart Simon Cole Timothy Vance Sarah Noll Toby Stephens Lindy Mills Sarah Martin Wiremu Andrews Yuri Burns

Sniff, Sip

Savour

The best places to drink champagne in Australia and France.

Alexis Rojat, Head Sommelier at Montrachet.

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

|

69

PLACE Some of the prestige cuvées offered by Montrachet. They plan on expanding their list of back vintages in coming months.

Montrachet, Brisbane | Australia Location

Open

Shop 1/30 King Street, Bowen Hills, Brisbane, Australia

Lunch Tuesday to Friday, 12pm – 3pm

@montrachet_restaurant W www.montrachet.com.au

Dinner Tuesday to Friday, 6pm until late

Sara Underdown P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y Judit Losh WORDS BY

Step inside Montrachet, located on Brisbane’s trendy King Street, Bowen Hills, and you will feel immediately transported to another time, another place. Its Parisienne brasserie chic has a refined air and sharp order but don’t let that intimidate you. There is a lovely warmth and charm within; from the intimate layout of the bar and detailed table settings, to the expansive windows and mellow glow from cascading brass lights.

Lunch or dine in the restaurant, bar or private dining room and you’re sure to be taken care of by

70

|

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

a team of polished wait staff and knowledgeable sommeliers. Venue Manager, Romain Maunier, and Head Sommelier, Alexis Rojat, set the bar high, elevating the calibre of food and wine expertise offered to patrons; and they’re particularly passionate about champagne.

Maunier and Rojat are relative newcomers to the Montrachet family, recruited by owners, Shannon and Clare Kellam, to complement the restaurant’s expansion. Maunier started in July 2018 with Rojat following in March 2019. Both worked together,

previously, for the Merivale group in Sydney which boasts more than 50 leading dining and drinking venues across the city. Maunier held various management roles whilst Rojat was, most notably, Head Sommelier at the famed Mr. Wong restaurant.

Marseilles born, Maunier, spent five years with the group in Sydney. A move to Brisbane seemed a natural choice, for family reasons, but the opportunity to work at the onehatted, Montrachet, made the transition even easier, for Maunier, who says that his first year has been ‘amazing’.

Owner, Clare Kellam, says that the appointments of Maunier and Rojat came at a critical time for the business, following two big years in which they relocated to a new, larger premises to cater for increased patronage.

“Things were happening so quickly so I needed to bring Romain on to help out. He’s taken it up and run with it beautifully,” she says. “We said to Romain, pick things for the wine list that people cannot find anywhere else; something that will create an experience.

We are an experiential restaurant and you get that with all of our wines.”

Bruno Paillard Millésimé Blanc de Blancs 2006. Diversity, however, is greatest in Montrachet’s non-vintage collection which ranges from wellknown grower-producers (EglyOuriet, Vouette et Sorbee, DhondtGrellet and Larmandier-Bernier) to cooperatives (Collet and Palmer & Co.) and house champagnes (such as Ayala, Philipponnat, Brimoncourt, Billecart-Salmon, Gosset, and Krug).

Some premium champagnes are currently reserved for the private dining room although Maunier acknowledges that restaurant patrons often want what’s on that list.

In the coming months, both lists will be combined to offer greater diversity and access to exclusive champagnes.

“We said to Romain, pick things for the wine list that people cannot find anywhere else; something that will create an experience.”

One of the first things Maunier did was to revise the wine list. “We had a decent list when I first started but my first aim was to add some smaller champagne growers because everyone knows about Veuve Clicquot, Pol Roger, Dom Pérignon – for example.

I really wanted to add something different and have a good mix,” he says.

“There is a demand for prestige cuvées,” says Maunier. “People want to see how champagnes evolve over time, plus it’s hard to get the older vintages. But we need to make sure that people have the right understanding of what they want. Take, for example, Louis Roederer Cristal 2002 and Cristal 2008. They’re so different to each other. People may ask for 2008, but we’ve run out. If they order 2002 instead, they won’t be getting the same experience. If they’re expecting something very fresh, they won’t get that with 2002 because it has more texture.”

Maunier stresses the importance of catering to customers who want something new but also to those who want what they know. He says it’s important people don’t feel lost.

To this end, they offer something different by the glass for only $26 – like Larmandier-Bernier.

The extensive, and growing, champagne list at Montrachet

Maunier says that Montrachet attracts the right clientele to support a champagne list that incorporates both houses and growers. Aspirational diners can order rare treats such as Pommery’s Cuvée Louise 1998, Dom Ruinart Rosé 2004 or Moët and Chandon’s Grand Vintage 1998. Or perhaps a more current vintage such as Le Brun de Neuville Grand Vintage 2008, Bollinger Rosé 2006 or

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

|

71

The intimate setting at Montrachet located on King Street, Bowen Hills, Brisbane

“We offer wine by the glass because it’s more affordable and less of a risk for those wanting to experiment,” he says. “Sometimes, we take a risk to promote something different - but that’s the idea. When people leave the restaurant, we want them to feel like they’ve had an experience.”

With the business going from strideto-stride, installing a higher level of professionalism has been met by a more refined wine service.

“I was looking for someone who could be my number two and once again, bring the wine list to another level. Alexis is the best person for it. During my time, I added some very nice wines but Alexis has more knowledge and the right contacts,” says Maunier fondly of his colleague.

|

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

Over the next six months, it will be Rojat’s job to double the size of Montrachet’s champagne list, taking it from around 60 bottles to more than 120, including some back vintages.

“Over the next six months, it will be Rojat’s job to double the size of Montrachet’s champagne list, taking it from around 60 bottles to more than 120, including some back vintages.”

Born in Grenoble, in south-eastern France, Rojat trained in hospitality for six years. His final year was dedicated exclusively to studying wine as part of the Mention Complémentaire Sommellerie program. There, his passion for wine was realised and a career in gastronomy and fine wine was born. His early path led to

72

Michelin starred restaurants in the United Kingdom before heading to Australia.

In addition to expanding its current wine list, the restaurant will focus on monthly food and wine masterclasses, in which champagne will feature. Masterclasses are broken down so that people can experience food and wine on a smaller level and understand how everything works together.

French inspired modern dishes paired with complimenting wines plays to the joy, and art, of Montrachet’s philosophy captured by the execution of its passionate chef, Shannon Kellam. From cows milk cheese ravioli in lettuce soup to double baked soufflé with crab, and Brisbane Valley pan roasted quail with preserved lemon, rhubarb and parsnip to snails baked in pots, there is a respect for tradition whilst employing modern techniques; fusing together new and old.

“In March, we did a premium Bordeaux masterclass with 1982 first growths. In April, we had Tyson Stelzer with Dom Pérignon.” says Maunier. “A lot of people go to France and they say ‘we’re going to Burgundy this year and we want to know a bit more before we get there.’ So, they come along to our dinners and learn.”

Whether you lunch, dine, or simply sip a drink at Montrachet, you’ll find it is all about quality in the overall experience; from the food and wine to the service.

Details matter in the intimacy of its surrounds.

The sun-soaked exterior of Le Wine Bar, Reims, during Champagne Week

Le Wine Bar, Reims | France Location

Open

16 Place du Forum, 51100 Reims, France

Tuesday to Thursday 6pm – 12.30am Friday and Saturday 6pm – 1.30am Closed Sunday

WORDS BY

@LeWineBarReims W www.winebar-reims.com/

Kaaren Palmer Milton Wordley

PHOTOGRAPHY BY

At the end of the street in which we lived for a year, there is a great little wine bar, Le Wine Bar by Le Vintage, which feels so comfortable.

It's run by two brothers (both cute), Nicolas and Pierre–Louis Papavero.

They, and other bar staff, are the friendliest people imaginable. Apart from learning each customer's name and greeting them accordingly at future visits, the charming French handshake and kisses on each cheek are always there for hello and goodbye.

Bad French is amiably tolerated, adorable English spoken to my husband, who is treated as a

seigneur, and our opening order is accompanied by a complimentary plate of charcuterie, cheese and olives. Regularly changing champagnes are offered by the wellpriced glass, plus reds and whites - Italian too!

Everybody who visits Reims should go to Le Wine Bar more than once.

It’s a great way to learn about French wines because the brothers know their stuff; their family owns an amazing wine shop behind the cathedral, Le Vintage, very useful for stocking up the cellar, or just drinking at home. Apart from the range of champagnes and still wines,

“Everybody who visits Reims should go to Le Wine Bar more than once.

It’s a great way to learn about French wines because the brothers know their stuff.” there's a marvellously extensive wine list. Love it, love it, love it!

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

|

73

One Friday night, we enjoyed a gorgeous glass of Françoise Bedel’s Origin’elle (€8.50) and a glass of Charles Heidsieck Rosé (€12).

Bargains! What a lovely place to chill out after a hard week’s writing.

It does get crowded by lovely young things, but we, winemakers, sommeliers, chefs de cave, wine industry luminaries – we all feel welcome.

'Le OFF de la Champagne' is an annual event hosted by Le Wine Bar. It occurs on the first Monday of Champagne Week (aka Le Printemps des Champagnes), in April each year. Many growers and small domaines come together to show their still wines and their newly released champagnes in a casual setting. Le OFF is totally crowded with fun, joy, and the clink of glasses, as growers ply their friends in the crowd with their foaming champagne brews.

Visitors and locals alike spread onto nearby footpaths and into the parking lot in the Place du

Forum. And here we are, amongst international friends we see at this time every year, famous wine journalists from every country, Masters of Wine in abundance, champagne importers, collectors and connoisseurs – in the middle of the history of the ancient forum of Reims. We ponder the Roman cryptoportique and the handsome face of the Hôtel Musée Le Vergeur (note its unique collections) visible across the Place du Forum. Around the corner is the famous cathedral, where French kings were crowned, and the Palais de Tau. The whole of Belle Époque Reims, the ancient crayères carved from chalk by the Romans, wonderful champagne houses, surround us. We delight and pleasure in the magic of champagne that is both outside and inside of us, frothing as we sip!

On tasting, just now as I write, by the glass, one can enjoy the delights of Hugues Godmé NV Blanc de Noirs, Francis Boulard & Filles NV Blanc de Blancs Vieilles Vignes,

Billecart-Salmon Brut Réserve, Eric Rodez 2009 Les Fournettes, Laherte Frères NV Ultradition Blancs and Fabien Bergeronneau Côteaux Champenois. What treats!

But there is so much more; a generous number of still wines on tasting by the glass, not to mention a delectable wine list of 500 or so bottles and magnums. Note to self… when in Champagne, don’t miss a week without a session at Le Wine Bar, at least.

“We delight and pleasure in the magic of champagne that is both outside and inside of us, frothing as we sip!”

Nicolas and Pierre–Louis Papavero, the friendly faces of Le Wine Bar in Reims

74

|

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

PLACE

How to

Experience Champagne Like a Local Champagne educator and consultant, Amanda Reboul, shares her tips on getting the most out of a visit to Champagne.

WORDS BY

Amanda Reboul

?????

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

|

75

Amanda ReboulRight:

"The world’s most recognised and "

loved wine.

Ever since my first visit to Champagne, some 25 years ago, I have wanted to learn and experience more. The beauty of the region, its people who are custodians of centuries' old tradition, and know-how all come together to create the world’s most recognised and loved wine.

The rolling hills of vineyards and damp, chalky cellars deep beneath the ground, seemed far removed from the reality of sub-tropical Queensland that I had left behind.

Being married to a Frenchman proved fortuitous to my new found interest in champagne. Early on in our

76

|

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

marriage we moved to France and travelled regularly to visit my husband's family in Chavot-Courtcourt, a village just outside of Epernay. I got to know the locals, their customs, food, and way of life. It was a beautiful experience and one that I have remained connected with since returning to Australia.

Nothing pleases me more than sharing my knowledge of the region and returning each year, often with others about to commence their own journey with champagne.

PLACE

Left: Bourgeois-Diaz pinot noir.

Right: Reserves at Billecart-Salmon.

CHAMPAGNE AT A GLANCE The region of Champagne extends some 34,000 hectares of land, 90 miles north-east of Paris. It is divided into four main areas, running north to south; the Montagne de Reims, Vallée de la Marne, Côte des Blancs, and Côte des Bar. Most of Champagne's large houses are conveniently located in either Reims or Epernay, however, you'll need a car to experience most growers, who are spread out far and wide across the countryside.

Hire a driver for a few days to avoid drinking and driving and allow yourself to be totally immersed in the experience.

WHEN TO VISIT

TASTING CHAMPAGNE

Visit Champagne anytime and you're sure to discover a different side of its personality. But if you're looking to see it in all of its glory, my advice is to book for May or June as the seasons teeter between spring and summer. The weather is most often good, the vineyards are gaining foliage and you may even get a glimpse of budburst.

It is impossible to see the best of Champagne in a day or two. Aim for at least three days to get the most out of your stay.

Travel a few months later in September for a glimpse of harvest in action, although a word of caution; visiting producers or even getting accommodation during this time can be difficult, if not impossible. So book early and plan well.

By late October, in the aftermath of harvest, walk the cobblestone streets through the villages and be overwhelmed by the aroma of fermenting musts. It's delicious!

“Most of Champagne's large houses are conveniently located in either Reims or Epernay.”

Fortunately, for tourists, many of the large champagne houses have now made guided tours available with online bookings. Better yet, most offer tours at certain times in English.

If you're more inclined to get off the beaten track, consider visiting some of the region's growers. You will need a car to get around the villages and countryside. Make sure you stop when you see a sign that says ‘dégustation vente’ (open for wine tasting); it’s not always guaranteed that English will be spoken, but it adds to the fun of the experience.

Some of the more well-known growers have websites with contact details and can be approached in advance to confirm visits.

Allow time for three visits a day, but don't overdo it. Palate fatigue is almost guaranteed to kick-in and the pressure of scheduling time between commitments can make for a stressful experience.

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

|

77

PLACE

The Best of Champagne Off the

beaten track Enjoy some of these more unusual places away from the tourist circuit.

78

|

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

Faux de Verzy | If you're visiting the Perchingbar, take time to discover the Verzy forest with its hauntingly beautiful dwarf beech trees from which it takes its name.

The peculiar characteristics of these trees is thought to be from a genetic mutation which results in them being able to fuse branches and propagate from aerial limbs, giving them a very wide canopy. It's an easy walk through a fenced reserve, so visitors can admire the trees without damaging the delicate root system.

Some impressive specimens have been given special names. Look out for the Maiden’s Fau; legend has it that Joan of Arc once napped at the foot of the tree.

The Perchingbar | High up in the Verzy forest sits a treetop bar with stunning views over the Montagne de Reims. Enjoy the small adventure of walking through the forest then a series of suspended bridges and swinging stairs to reach your destination. Sip your champagne on one of the swings, relax and take in the view.

Le Phare de Verzenay | A lighthouse in the middle of vineyards without a drop of ocean to be seen! It was built about 100 years ago as a marketing ploy, and now houses an interesting champagne museum. Take the stairs to the top for unparalleled views of the vineyards.

Local

foodie Champagne isn't the only reason gourmands should visit the region. Try these rare local treats while you're there.

Chaource | A soft cows’ milk cheese with a creamy, slightly crumbly texture encased in a white rind.

They are often matured for two to three months but some like to eat young Chaource, when the rind is hardly formed. Helpfully, Chaource pairs beautifully with champagne.

Available at any deli or even in the cheese aisle at the supermarket.

Les biscuits roses de Reims | It's impossible to resist these pretty pink biscuits that locals like to dip into a glass of champagne as they don’t break when wet. They are light, crunchy and vanilla-flavoured, and date back to the 17th Century, making them one of the oldest biscuits in France. Available at Maison Fossier in Reims.

Reims ham | A must try local speciality, found on menus everywhere. Ham and pork shoulder are cooked in stock, seasoned with nutmeg, parsley and shallots.

Once cooked it is coated in yellow breadcrumbs.

Truffles (shhhh!) | It's a little known fact that the forest floors of the Marne produce the same variety of black truffle (tuber melanosporum) as those found in the more famous Périgord. They ripen earlier than those from Périgord, and yield varies from yearto-year. Keep an eye out for them on local menus from late October to December.

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

|

79

PLACE

Dining out Dine with the locals, and those in the know, with these suggestions.

Reims and Montagne de Reims Brasserie Le Jardin les Crayères | The little sister of the more famous restaurant at the five-star hotel, Les Crayères, the brasserie offers a more relaxed and affordable way to enjoy the beautiful surroundings of the hotel, originally built in 1904, as the Pommery family home.

Le Café du Palais | A fun and relaxed bistro in the centre of Reims with an interior still dripping in the Belle Époque style from which it draws its inspiration, built 85 years ago. Best enjoyed at the busy lunch period to get a fully French experience.

Vallée de la Marne Le Bois Joli | Conveniently situated on the Route Nationale 51 between Reims and Epernay, the focus of its wine list is sustainably

produced champagnes. The restaurant also features a large selection of red and white Côteaux Champenois; still wines from the region which are hard to find outside of Champagne.

L’Auberge de la Touraine Champenoise | A fine dining restaurant unexpectedly situated in the village of Reuilly, deep in the Marne Valley. It is reasonably priced considering it’s one Michelin star and exudes country chic.

Epernay and Côte des Blancs Bistro le 7 | The more casual bistro attached to the Michelin starred, Les Berceaux. A tasty and affordable menu for both lunch and dinner, with an exceptional champagne list.

Restaurant les Avises | Nestled in the village of Avize in the Côte des Blancs, the restaurant is attached to

the fabled Domaine Selosse and a must for serious gastronome. The menu is set each evening depending on seasonal availability of ingredients and the wine list offers a vast selection of not only famed grower champagnes but interesting wines from the rest of France.

Côte des Bar Brasserie Illustre | Ideally located along a pedestrian street in the centre of town, a modern and simple brasserie that attracts both locals and tourists.

La Toque Baralbine | If traditional French cuisine is what you're after, then look no further.

The menu focuses on ingredients that pair well with champagne such as scallops, lobster and foie gras.

Left: Le Café du Palais Right: Restaurant les Avises

80

|

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

Santé Experience something new with these local favourites.

Le Wine Bar by Le Vintage | The bar offers an extensive list of grower champagnes available by the glass. A must if you want to be seen where all the cool kids go.

When it's

time to slumber Reims and Montagne de Reims Chateau les Crayères | A five-star luxury option in the former home of the Pommery family located in Reims. A once in a lifetime experience.

Le Palais Champenois | A quaint 19th Century B&B in the centrally placed village of Rilly-la-Montagne.

Enjoy the famous hospitality and home cooking of Florence Manceaux, wife of champagne maker Patrick.

Au 36 | Located in the historic village of Hautvillers, take the time to sample tasting packages and learn about different champagnes matched with a plate of local tapas.

Nothing is better on a fine day than to sit out on the terrace.

Reims, Epernay and the villages are awash with options for accommodation, from high-end to intimate B&B arrangements.

There's something to suit every budget.

Vallée de la Marne Royal Champagne | A brand new, luxurious five-star hotel and spa with sweeping views over the vineyards of Champillon, toward Epernay.

Le Manoir des Charmes | Located In the heart of Aÿ, a beautifully restored B&B for those wanting a more homely experience.

Epernay and Côte des Blancs Les Suites 33, De Venoge | Located In the recently restored stables of the De Venoge Chateau, these lush rooms are perfectly situated on the Avenue de Champagne and full of old world charm.

Les Avises | Escape amongst the vineyards, in the village of Avize, to this sumptuous guesthouse run by the enigmatic Anselme Selosse and his wife Corinne. You may be lucky enough to visit the cellars with M Selosse himself, but best to brushup on your French beforehand.

Côte des Bar Hotel le Champ des OIseaux, La Maison de Rhodes | Two boutique hotels ‘de charme’ are among the best in Troyes. Close to Troyes Cathedral, they are perfectly located for visiting the region.

Left: Chateau les Crayères.

Middle: Royal Champagne Hotel and Spa. Right: Les Avises.

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

|

81

A taste

PLACE

of history Reims and Montagne de Reims

Epernay and Côte des Blancs

Cathédral Notre-Dame de Reims | The original cathedral where the kings of France were crowned for more than 600 years.

Steeped in history, this is where Joan of Arc led Charles VII to his coronation at the end of the hundred years’ war, not to be missed when visiting Reims.

Avenue de Champagne | Take your time to stroll along the avenue and see the grand homes of some of Champagne's finest houses.

Palais du Tau | Originally the palace of the Archbishops of Reims and is now a museum exhibiting the original treasures of the cathedral.

Vallée de la Marne The Village of Hautvillers and Abbey of St Peter of Hautvillers | Historically significant as the village that played home to Dom Pérignon.

This picturesque village is also notable for its antique shop signs, hanging above doors, indicating the professions of those inside. A pilgrimage to Dom Pérignon’s tomb in the Abbey is a must.

Marne River Cruise | Operating between May and September, a cruise along the river Marne with lunch and champagne is a relaxing way to see the region from a different perspective.

82

|

Take the time to discover Champagne’s history, long before it was known for its bubbles, with these significant sites from the earliest days of Christianity.

VINEANDBUBBLE.COM

Champagne de Castellane | Climb the magnificent landmark tower for stunning views over Epernay and the Marne River.

Winery visits are not possible, but champagnes are available for tasting and purchase.

Côte des Bar Troyes Cathedrale | An impressive example of gothic architecture - well worth a visit.

Musée d’Art Moderne | For art lovers, this museum is located in an old Episcopalian palace and has some wonderful collections of African and Oceanian tribal art.

Top: Cathédral Notre-Dame de Reims.

Bottom: Avenue de Champagne.

Amanda Reboul is a champagne consultant, educator and presenter based in Brisbane. She runs private tours to the Champagne region each year in October. Through her large network of contacts, Amanda is able to arrange bespoke and exclusive opportunities for travelers to visit champagne houses and growers, luxury accommodation, and unique dining experiences. For enquiries, contact Amanda directly via email: contact@effervescence.com.au

S U B S C R I B E AT W W W.V I N E A N D B U B B L E . C O M

Available in print or digital

SINGLE ISSUE

$ 1 9 . 9 5 AUD

ANNUAL SUBSCRIPTION

$ 3 5 . 0 0 AUD

PUBLISHER

VINE & BUBBLE Magazine EDITOR

Sara Underdown sara@vineandbubble.com CONTRIBUTORS

Kate Laurie Kaaren Palmer Yoko Ota-Sawyer Amanda Reboul Megan Barber

PHOTOGRAPHERS

Victor Pugatschew Wade Whitington Sara Underdown Milton Wordley Judit Losh Belinda Rolland Megan Barber Geordie Torr Charmaine Fulton Stephane Gautier

ART DIRECTORS AND DESIGNERS

David White

ADVERTISING

Sara Underdown sara@vineandbubble.com PHONE

(+61) 417 898 594 NEXT ISSUE ON SALE FROM November 2019 © 2019 Vine & Bubble Magazine. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, transmitted, or distributed in any form without permission from of the publisher.

Vine & Bubble Magazine is a bi-annual publication. The articles published reflect the opinions of the respective authors and do not necessarily represent the views of the publishers, the magazine or it's staff.

@V INE A NDB UBBL E

@V INE A NDB UBBL E

@V INE A NDB UBBL E

SA R A @V INE A NDB UBBL E .C OM

W W W.V INE A NDB UBBL E .C OM

W

S U B S C R I B E AT W W W.V I N E A N D B U B B L E . C O M