Exploring Upcountry in BMW X4 | Leslie Wimbush

Discovered

Exploring Upcountry in BMW X4

Story and Photography: Lesley Wimbush

Nestled in the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains, Greenville reveals its charms slowly, a surprising gem discovered within the vast Coastal Forest region of South Carolina. Little wonder it’s also known as the “Emerald City”.

We arrive at Greenville-Spartanburg Airport, where instead of the usual labyrinth of dirty concrete and car exhaust, we’re welcomed by a leafy green canopy encircling a small lake with cascading fountain.

From GSP it’s a quick shuttle to The Westin Poinsett, a 12-storey landmark hotel located in the heart of downtown Greenville.

It’s named after Joel Roberts Poinsett, the first U.S. Ambassador to Mexico, who brought back to South Carolina the beautiful “La Flor de Noche Buena” or Christmas Eve Flower – which we now know as the poinsettia.

Built in 1924 for $1.5 million, a fortune at the time, to attract business travellers to Greenville’s thriving textile industry, the hotel became known as “Carolina’s Finest” and its roster of illustrious guests included Cornelius Vanderbilt, Amelia Earhart, Liberace, and Bobby Kennedy.

But the 1950s ushered in a new era of road-trippers; and while the motel industry flourished, the luxury hotel fell out of vogue.

The once prosperous Poinsett fell upon hard times and eventually closed in 1987. After being repeatedly vandalized, and surviving two fires, the hotel was considered one of South Carolina’s most endangered historical sites until its grand re-opening in 2000.

Situated on Main Street in the heart of Greenville, the Poinsett’s courtyard opens into the downtown square – making it the perfect home base for exploration. And what better way to do so than in an all-new luxury crossover?

Sandblasted brick and ornate mouldings create a nice backdrop for the 2019 BMW X4 xDrive30i parked on the inlaid-brick courtyard. Tomorrow, we’ll explore South Carolina’s Upcountry in luxurious comfort – while the twisty Appalachian roads should prove an exhilarating challenge for BMW’s famed performance and handling.

But first, we’re in need of sustenance after our long flights. Once an unremarkable mill town, Greenville boasts a thriving arts community, 32 acres of gardens, cafés, miles of bicycle trails (17-time Tour de France rider George Hincapie trained here), and a passionate food scene.

It’s a warm summer evening’s stroll to “Larkin’s on the River”, one of South Carolina’s “12 most unique restaurants” and a haunt favoured by the likes of George Clooney, Martha Stewart, Kevin Costner and Aretha Franklin.

Known for its “Secret Wine Society” which offers guests the opportunity to sample rare and interesting wines, Larkin’s open-air ambience and breathtaking riverside view make it the place to enjoy premium aged steak and seafood.

Fully sated by a menu that included jumbo lump crab cakes, short rib poutine, and fried green tomatoes with horseradish and crispy pork belly, we make our way back to the hotel for some much-needed rest.

“the Poinsett’s courtyard opens into the downtown square – making it the perfect home base for exploration.”

Although it’s barely 7:00 a.m., the humid subtropical climate feels overly warm and sticky to our tender Canadian sensibilities. We board the shuttle for Spartanburg; home of BMW’s largest manufacturing plant, and the country’s largest vehicle exporter.

In 26 years, the plant has grown from producing only 60,000 vehicles annually, to 411,171 in 2016. Last year that number dropped to 371,284 – which BMW was expecting as a result of factory shut-down to prepare and re-tool for the upcoming X7 crossover.

Nearly ten thousand people are employed here, building the crossover lineup from X3 to X6 - and the soon to arrive X7. It’s fascinating to watch the empty shells move from station to station, gradually gaining components and trim until the body is finally “married” to its chassis, and ready to roll off the line.

BMW plays a crucial role in South Carolina’s economic development, which had lost some 60,000 jobs during the decline of the textile industry.

A recent University of South Carolina survey claims the automaker’s annual economic impact on the state is around $16.6 billion – thanks to the many suppliers and supporting industries which followed it here; creating thousands of jobs and attracting other big manufacturers such as Volvo, Mercedes-Benz and Boeing.

Grabbing the keys to a X4 xDrive30i, we hit the blacktop to explore South Carolina “Upcountry” –the northwestern part of the state notable for its rugged Appalachian Mountains and rolling foothills, and not to be confused with the “low country’s” languid subtropical coast.

The 2019 X4, now in its second generation, makes a fine road trip vehicle. Aside from its optional adaptive suspension and generous slathering of rich “Vernasca” leather, the X4 features a wealth of safety and convenience technology – not to mention standard all-wheel-drive.

It also boasts one all-important road-trip feature that many premium German cars lack: plenty of interior storage, from large door pockets, extra cupholders, and console stowage to a handy cubby in front of the shifter that’s great for keys, phones, or road trip snacks.

Germans, who consider driving sacred, look down on our North American proclivity for incar consumption and traditionally accommodated our uncouthness with flimsy, ill-placed single cupholders.

“Spartanburg; home of BMW’s largest manufacturing plant, and the country’s largest vehicle exporter.”

“...the X4 M40i’s selectable drive modes create an engaging experience behind the wheel.”

Though we’re given a guidebook with a prescribed route, we decide to venture off-track – a serendipitous turn that leads us down a leafy forest road and eventually to the charming Campbell’s covered bridge. Built in 1909, it is the last remaining authentic covered bridge in the state.

An enormous red barn catches our attention, just outside the town of Greer. In a front sand ring, a man is schooling a young horse harnessed to a wagon. This is the home of the Carolina Carriage Store - the largest purveyor of horse-drawn carriages in the nation.

They also breed and raise Friesians, the spectacular high-stepping black horses known for their voluminous manes and tails.

After trading our luxurious cruiser for the 355 horsepower, sportier X4 M40i, we enjoy some brisk cavorting on winding switchbacks below Mount Pisgah.

More powerful and tightly composed than the regular variant, the X4 M40i’s selectable drive modes create an engaging experience behind the wheel. It’s a fine way to experience the South Carolina Upcountry.

Next stop is an outstanding dinner at Soby’s “New South Cuisine”, whose golden, crunchy fried chicken lives up to its southern legacy, and the crab cakes are divine. A four-inch slab of banana cream pie, topped with shaved white chocolate is nearly impossible to resist - so I don’t.

We wrap up our day with a walk to work off those ohso-worth-it calories. Greenville’s “Falls Park on the Reedy” boasts 32-acres of beautiful waterfront trails – the highlight of which is a spectacular suspended bridge that curves around the waterfalls below.

Twinkling fairy lights add an air of enchantment and though busy, the vibe is friendly and low key. The magic intensifies as we wander through the empty hull of the Wyche Pavilion, light spilling from its enormous archways reflected in the river below. Once a carriage paint shop, the pavilion harkens back to Greenville’s mill town past.

Historic character, vibrant arts scene, and a culinary culture to please the most ardent foodie, Greenville delightfully blends contemporary living with southern charm.

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