Travel & Leisure

Beautiful Dubrovnik — without the crowds

It can have it all all. Dubrovnik, that is, as a recent ve-day trip to the southern Croatia city showed... boating, beaches, amazing food and wine, and historic villas to call home. anks to some fantastic hotels, the patience of Croatians (who, to a person, were so good with children), and a detour to the place where locals go to escape the crowds, it was a trip to Croatia’s coast that stood out. Here are four ways to make the most of a visit to Dubrovnik, high to low season.

1. Don’t be afraid to splurge on a hotel near Old Town

ere isn’t a better hotel to make your home base than the Hotel Excelsior Dubrovnik — an iconic landmark hotel (c. 1913) that’s just a veminute walk from Old Town. You can take advantage of its location— and peacefulness, and incredible service — for rates that are relatively a ordable. ( ink €300- €400 a night compared to €1,000 for comparable European stays.) ere are oor-to-ceiling windows when you walk in, overlooking the Adriatic. e hotel has two parts —one is more modern, the other a more classic, traditional wing — and sea-view rooms come with beautiful decks where you can sit and watch the day go by (perhaps with a bottle of Croatian wine).

It’s child-friendly, which was cool to see. Kids can run around; Croatians are just like, this is the way it is.

About a mile from the western edge of Old Town, the Hotel Bellevue Dubrovnik is set atop a 90-foot cli , right on the Adriatic. e ve-star boutique hotel was completely redone in 2019 and now serves up chic style and vibes for a young, hip crowd.

But the thing that really caught the eye? e pebbly public beach where locals and hotel guests swim together, but has a private section with lounge chairs, umbrellas, and one of the hotel’s bars. It’s beneath the cli s, so this is one of the places local boys coming of age hang out to prove their mettle. ey’re jumping o these 20-, 30-, 40-foot cli s into the water. Fun to watch.

Even into September it can get hot during the day (high 70s), so plan to do Old Town in the early morning or evening.

2. Island hop around the Elaphites

Croatia is all about the sea — all about being near the water. In the lazy days of summer, everyone seemed to be hanging out at a pool, a beach club, or boating around between islands.

With help from Adriatic Luxury Hotels (the properties at which to stay), a boat can be chartered for a full day to visit some of the Elaphiti islands, a small archipelago northwest of Dubrovnik. You can also take a ferry to the islands of Kolo ep, Lopud, and Su ura . is was a highlight of the trip: Some islands have beach clubs, which you can visit for a day or even just a meal; other islands are more about the restaurants, where you hop o at the dock and eat at a great restaurant right there. e sh is so fresh —just simply prepared, grilled — it is memorable.

3. Make time to visit the Peljesac peninsula

Drive 60 minutes from Dubrovnik’s city centre to the Peljesac peninsula, where the new bridge is, along with lots of beaches, wineries, and oyster farming. It’s where folks who live in Dubrovnik go to escape the summers. It’s not as touristy. It’s probably where you could rent a house on a subsequent trip: start in Dubrovnik, and then spend another week on the Peljesac.

4. So, hang out near the airport — seriously!

e village of Cavtat, 15 minutes from the international airport. You can get to Cavtat from Old Town easily, by bus or water taxis, in 20 minutes for about €18 (give or take). Beautiful yachts and ships are anchored in Cavtat’s bay. e waterfront promenade is lined with palm trees, churches, monuments, outdoor restaurants and cafes. It’s all very relaxed yet sophisticated. It has been described as ‘St Tropez without the crowds’ but Cavtat is just its own special place.

Tour the newly renovated Hotel Supetar Cavtat in the town’s historic centre. It’s housed in a villa from the 1920s — just 16 rooms, all of them individually designed. e restaurant is called Restaurant, with an outdoor terrace overlooking the water and a nearby church. And the food is paired with local, world-class Croatian wines! We had one of the best meals of our entire trip here: amazing sword sh carpaccio, a 24-day aged beef let, homemade breads and butters. Everything is very locally sourced. Daydream about buying out the whole hotel for a big celebration.

e landscape of the Paris wine bar scene has changed a lot in the east decade; gone are the wine lists heavy with Burgundy and not much else, as well as the ‘rule’ that you can drink wine only with dinner.

Freddy’s

With its stone walls and wood oors, Freddy’s has a rustic, lived-in vibe. e bottle list takes you on an impressive tour de France, plus you’ll always nd something special you won’t see outside the country, like a Vermentino from Corsica. Another standout is the food. Freddy’s tapas menu changes seasonally, but if you see the savoury beignets, order them with a glass of Bordeaux blanc.

Adonis Wine

Tucked away down a quiet street in between clothing shops, you’ll recognise Adonis Wine thanks to the name written in cursive neon lights in the front window. Settle into one of their plush hightop chairs and order from the extensive by-the-glass list, heavy on Bordeaux (where the owners are from). eir Friday jazz is a good night out with friends.

Frenchie Bar à Vins

is is the smaller o shoot of the famed restaurant of the same name across the street. With a substantial menu of elevated small plates and wines by the glass, its o erings feel just as generous as its big sister’s. Whether you’re alone at the counter, grabbing a table with friends for a quick glass of Vin de Savoie, or it’s your main destination of the night, everything about Frenchie just works.

Au Tour du Vin

A neighbourhood spot where you always feel welcome. e newly opened wine bar and store Au Tour du Vin is that place . Owner Edward Fuzat has selected wines from all over France to line one entire wall; high tables line the other. eir planche mixte is one of my new favourites in the city.