Tempus Magazine | Issue 84 | Autumn 2023

TIMELESS INSPIRATION

LUXURY LEADERS The changemakers and innovators who are leading by example

GUY RITCHIE | THE SPORT OF KINGS | BEYOND FRIEZE I SSUE

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A season of change

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utumn always strikes me as the season of luxury.

From cornerstone events like the global Fashion Weeks and Monaco Yacht Show, to smaller changes like seasonal menus and glamorous grands prix, this time of year is awash with opportunities to experience the finer things in new and exciting style.

It seemed appropriate, then, that we should choose our Autumn Edition to introduce Tempus’s inaugural Leaders List, celebrating just some of the changemakers and innovators transforming the luxury world.

This year’s list profiles 12 individuals who are making a seismic impact across four key pillars of modern luxury – influence, sustainability, community and innovation.

Among this year’s cohort, we applaud Lewis Hamilton’s philanthropy and activism on behalf of underrepresented people, Chanel CEO Leena Nair’s human-focused leadership, Raymond Blanc’s lasting impact on sustainable and seasonal cuisine, and HSH Prince Albert II of Monaco’s efforts in marine conservation. Read the full list on page 38.

It’s an inspiring group of individuals, whose positive effect is more than evidenced in the commitments of the organisations and companies they lead, as well as in the revolutionary thinking they provide.

And as if this stellar power list wasn’t enough, we’re bringing you an issue packed with innovation. Filmmaker Guy Ritchie invited Tempus to experience his outdoor dining concept WildKitchens – which he created as a clever way to keep warm and dry while still indulging in his passion for year-round al fresco dining (14) – and we sit down with Van Cleef & Arpels’ Rainer Bernard to find out the secrets of the creative jewellery and watchmaking brand (84). For the petrolheads among us, we join Goodwood’s GRRC for an enviable classic car experience (20), while powderchasers will no doubt be left in awe by the quality of skiing to be found in Niseko, Japan (48).

Elsewhere, we look into the rise and rise of branded residences (54), chat to the superstars of world polo (74), and go beyond Frieze for this most sumptuously luxurious season’s most exciting art exhibitions (32).

Enjoy the issue.

Michelle Johnson Editor-in-chief

THESE INDIVIDUALS ARE MAKING A SEISMIC IMPACT ACROSS FOUR PILLARS OF MODERN LUXURY

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update from the world of luxury lifestyle

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Contributors

Editorial team Editor-in-chief Michelle Johnson michelle@tempusmagazine.co.uk

Rikesh Chauhan Tempus’ columnist puts his best foot forward for his pick of the season’s most fashionable footwear (112)

Creative Director Ross Forbes ross@tempusmagazine.co.uk Digital Content Editor Tessa Crowley tessa@tempusmagazine.co.uk Wealth Editor Lysanne Currie

Judy Cogan Take a trip through time as Judy visits the home of the Bloomsbury Group (82) and looks closer at the Sport of Kings (74)

Motoring Editor Rory FH Smith Chief Sub-Editor Dominique Dinse COMMERCIAL Head of Partnerships Dan Scudder dan@tempusmagazine.co.uk +44 (0) 203 519 1005

Rory FH Smith We head for the horizon with Rory's guide to this seasons best yachts shows (26) before going back in time to celebrate 75 years of Porsche (70)

VANTAGE MEDIA Chairman Floyd Woodrow Managing Director Peter Malmstrom COVER IMAGE

Charlotte Vowden Automotive journalist Charlotte visits London’s best kept secret – a supercar concierge with a difference (66)

Formula 1 star Lewis Hamilton.

Image courtesy ©Mercedes-AMG PETRONAS F1 Team Article on page: 38

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CONTENTS

10 The luxe list Our essential guide to the finest gifts and most exciting new launches of the season 14 Playing with fire Tempus enjoys an al fresco lunch with filmmaker and entrepreneur Guy Ritchie 20 Fully revived We take a road trip to Goodwood to discover the latest from the classic car estate 24 Time after time Bucherer’s Pierre Hardouin shares the market power of pre-owned watches 26 Hit the deck Your essential guide to the biggest yacht shows of the season 32 Exhibitionists Venture beyond Frieze during London’s most artistic months 38 Leading by example Meet the changemakers and innovators transforming the luxury world 48 Heights of harmony Experience the philosophy lifting Hokkaido’s hospitality to new heights 54 Brand loyalty Are luxury branded residences the future of affluent city living?

60 Desert jewel Middle Eastern opulence meets Mediterranean style at the Bulgari Resort Dubai 64 Circle of trust Knightsbridge Circle’s Stuart McNeill on how to create the ultimate unique experience 66 Under the radar We go deep underground to visit London’s top secret supercar concierge 70 Bigger, better, faster Take a grand tour through history as we celebrate 75 years of Porsche 74 Inside the Sport of Kings Go behind the scenes of the world’s most luxurious sport 78 Stealth wealth Our pick of the designer brands embodying the quiet luxury trend 82 Radical thinking How the artistic and social legacy of the Bloomsbury Group lives on at Charleston 84 The secret keepers Van Cleef & Arpels’ Rainer Bernard shares the secrets of the renowned jewellery watchmakers 90 Talking scents Discover the science behind synthetic fragrances 94 On the nose Our pick of the best perfumes for the Autumn season 96 Power & possibility Stemettes founder Dr Anne-Marie Imafidon MBE on how we bridge the STEM gender gap 100 New order Could the neo-collectivism movement reshape how we work, live and shop?

103 RE:VIEW Food writer Andreas Viestad takes us to Dinner in Rome, plus our pick of the best events and exhibitions 108 Save the date The finest events of the season 112 Best foot forward Style columnist Rikesh Chauhan teaches us how to stay a step ahead

ISSUE 84

38 Leading by example

©Mercedes-AMG PETRONAS F1 Team

The LUXE LIST Our essential guide to the most exciting new launches and finest seasonal gifts

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XOR X2 Matte Collection This super-secure mobile handset is a feat of British design and technology.

The new XOR X2 Matte Collection features a distinguished design with 18-carat rose gold, mat black grade 5 titanium and the finest Mississippi alligator leather (available in alluring black or deep scarlet). Beneath the elegant design, the XOR X2 is full of impressive security features including the XOR-Shield, XORPeer, remote control and three-layer password functionality. Users can also make secure voice calls over traditional telecommunication networks, and safely receive calls from apps such as Viber, WhatsApp and Messenger on their devices through an innovative new Smart Bluetooth feature. All smart features worth staying on the line for. xor.inc

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The Macallan Colour Collection Speyside distillery The Macallan has released its Colour Collection, a new range designed for whisky-lovers with a taste for adventure. The collection is marked by rich flavours and natural colour through maturation in sherry seasoned oak casks from Jerez de la Frontera, Spain. With a new-look bottle shape and designed in collaboration with graphic artist David Carson, these unique expressions are available via global travel retails. A whisky worth the journey.

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Panerai Luminor Due Luna TuttOro Panerai’s inaugural moon phase model is a masterclass in elegant dress watch design.

At 38mm, the mother-of-pearl dial encases a poetic moon phase complication at 3 o’clock. White Super-Luminova illuminates numerals and indexes to ensure readability, while a transparent cashback reveals the beauty of the automatic movement. The watch is finished with a Goldtech bracelet (Panerai’s unique gold alloy with platinum and copper), with alternating polished and brushed links to bring out the metal’s attractive red-gold hue. Quiet luxury worth shouting about. panerai.com

themacallan.com

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Le Jardin de Chaumet This new collection from high jewellery masters Maison Chaumet is bringing the wild woods into our wardrobes this season.

Exceptional stones are sculpted into realistic petals, roots, intricate leaves and more within the collection’s range of extraordinary rings, necklaces, earrings and tiaras.

With parures (sets) including Fougére ( ferns), Ecorce (bark), Blé (wheat), as well as bouquets include Tulipe and Agapanthe (pictured), this collection has a style for every season. » chaumet.com

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AquaDart Nano This powerful new range of dual-jet sea scooters by watercraft manufacturers iAqua are the perfect accessories for your next superyacht excursion. The Nano 620 Max offers top speed and performance, while the 520 Explorer focuses on range and endurance and the 450 Sport is designed for activities like scuba diving. The compact and lightweight scooters are just 22kg, yet capable of speeds over 12.5mph, include a display screen with battery level, speed, depth and digital compass for ease of navigation, and a run time of up to 130 minutes. The ideal toy for ocean explorers at every level. iaquawatercraft.com

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The Argentum Luna by Thomas James The first limited-edition timepiece by independent clockmakers Thomas James has been five years in the making. The English clock company produces bespoke statement wall clocks created by its team of craftspeople, specialising in British tradition from the Lake District and Yorkshire to the Midlands. With just 12 made per year, the Argentum Luna is an imposing 680mm in diameter, with an aluminium face finished in pearlescent white, with silver diamond-shaped hour markers.

Time to make a statement… thomasjamesclocks.com

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Berluti Toile Marbeuf An elegant new travel line by luxury maison Berluti is the epitome of understated style for those on go. The six bags in the autumn-winter collection are inspired by the interior of Berluti’s Paris flagship store on Rue Marbeuf. The collection includes the Cabas tote, the Cartable backpack, the Musette messenger, the small cross-body Bourse, and the Bagage weekender as well as a rolling luggage Formula 1005, all featuring hardwearing craftsmanship and the unique motif of the Rue Marbeuf. These bags are sure to make any trip high fashion. berluti.com

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Ruinart x Serpentine Ruinart has partnered with London’s Serpentine gallery on a new sustainability series titled, Art to Spark Sustainable Change. The series of events begins this Autumn with a live audience recording of the Talk Art Podcast, featuring the maison’s 2023 Carte Blanche artist Eva Jospin, on 10 October. Eva’s Ruinart Carte Blanche project, Promenades, has resulted in a series of drawings, sculptures and embroideries – as well as a limited-edition collection for the Blanc de Blancs Jeroboam – that will be on display at the Ruinart Art Bar during Frieze London. ruinart.com

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Purling Midnight Match chess set Designed by Purling’s creative director Gosia Łapsa-Malawska, the limited edition Midnight Match is a statement chess board to add instant drama to your game play or interior decor. Inspired by artist Anish Kapoor’s ‘Vantablack – the blackest of blacks’ pigment and Junichiro Tanizaki’s In Praise of Shadows, the 55cm x 55cm chess board combines a handpainted blend of specialised mat and gloss black to create the interplay of light and shadows. Purling’s bold boxwood chess pieces are hand-carved and triple-weighted, each finished with a dual-layer paint treatment, and embossed Napa leather base felts. Checkmate. purling.com

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Mauro Colagreco, Raffles London at the OWO Renowned Argentinian chef Mauro Colagreco will launch his eponymous fine dining concept at the hotly anticipated opening of Raffles London at the OWO. His elevated dining restaurant showcases his vision of the culinary experience as “a journey strewn with travel, discovery, ambition, commitment, and focus”. With hyper-local and hyperseasonal ingredients, sourced from UK producers, at the heart of the menu, the Unesco Goodwill Ambassador for Biodiversity is certain to shake up London’s dining scene.

Opens 29 September raffles.com

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PLAYING WITH FIRE Filmmaker Guy Ritchie invites Tempus to experience his new outdoor dining concept, WildKitchens

Words: Tessa Crowley

G

uy Ritchie needs very little introduction.

The English director, screenwriter and producer has become a household name since he was catapulted into the limelight in 2000 with the critical and commercial success of his second directorial film Snatch, starring Brad Pitt. The London-based gangster caper followed his debut, Lock, Stock and Two Smoking Barrels (1998) and quickly cemented his reputation as an auteur director.

Other successes followed, including an action-packed Sherlock Holmes franchise starring Robert Downey Jr and Jude Law (2009), and the live-action remake of Disney’s Aladdin (2019). The same year, Guy returned to the British gangster genre for The Gentlemen, which has now been adapted into an eight-part Netflix series expected to be released early next year.

Yet behind the scenes is a man more drawn to

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the grounding elements of a life in the country than the bright lights of the capital. This ethos is clearly seen in his latest venture, WildKitchens, a new luxury outdoor kitchen concept that allows owners to eat al fresco all year round, in any weather.

To launch the concept, Guy has invited us to dine in his own WildKitchen, located in the grounds of Ashcombe House, his beloved family estate in Wiltshire.

“I want to be immersed in nature, that’s really what I’m after,” he says, revealing that he has cooked and eaten most of his meals outside for the past six years. “I love the city, but I just use it for work – I don’t know why people live there. Look what the country can provide in terms of living.”

Sitting in the estate’s tranquil grounds in the comfort of a 12-seater WildKitchen on a sunny afternoon, it’s easy to see why he feels that »

way. Dragonflies skim across the unnaturally cobalt New Lake (coloured, it transpires, with environmentally safe food dye), backdropped by a lodge-cum-cabin project on the far shore and – a work in progress – a sauna project nearby; this is clearly both a sanctuary and a playground for the prolific filmmaker.

As we settle in for our meal, Guy reveals that the idea was initially sparked by his need for an outdoor heating solution to keep his wife Jacqui comfortable while indulging his own love of eating outside.

“I became obsessed with it eight years ago, spending, I would say, 30 hours a week tinkering on it,” he says. An early prototype was first glimpsed in The Gentlemen. “It was a very early prototype, more of a cobbled tent,” he admits, adding that the kitchen has evolved greatly since then to become his dream personal restaurant.

After 38 prototypes – rigorously tested and refined with the help of famous friends

including David Beckham – that first idea has evolved into today’s WildKitchens. Consisting of the WildTent – a fully retractable canvas and hardwood tent that protects diners from capricious weather – and the artisanal WildTable, that combines barbecue grill, wood-fired oven, dining table, cast iron cooking plate, countertop and prep station, WildHalo, natural heat source and a smokefree controllable fire pit. The result is a stylish al fresco cooking concept that is entirely practical, yet comfortable and elegant.

“You want the benefit of the indoors and the outdoors, so we made the WildTent completely retractable. If you want to furl everything up you are completely outdoors within minutes, but if the wind or rain starts to hit, you just drop the roof and you are completely protected from the elements. And when the evenings get cooler, the table keeps you warm.”

COOKING WITH FIRE Listening to Guy as he deftly serves up perfectly cooked steaks, talking us through WildKitchen’s many charms, it’s clear that our amiable host delights in the challenge that an open fire brings. The temperamental nature of an open flame seems to ignite a combative spark in him.

“Cooking on fire or embers, you think you’ve cracked it – only to then find out you haven’t,” he laughs. “It’s a little bit unpredictable. Enough to keep you guessing and refining, but not so much that it’s a bore.”

His enthusiasm for this kind of challenge may be the fuel of his invention – part of a »

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Into the wild: WildKitchens was inspired by Guy Ritchie’s passion for outdoor dining

FINE DINING

COOKING ON FIRE OR EMBERS, YOU THINK YOU’VE CRACKED IT – ONLY TO THEN FIND OUT YOU HAVEN’T. IT’S A LITTLE BIT UNPREDICTABLE. ENOUGH TO KEEP YOU GUESSING – Guy Ritchie

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A gentleman's kitchen: A prototype of the WildKitchen was featured in Ritchie’s The Gentlemen, starring Matthew McConaughey

wider world he’s creating through his lifestyle brand, The Cashmere Caveman Company.

“Guy is a really charismatic person,” says Rich Millbank, Cashmere Caveman’s general manager. “He captivates and holds the room really easily and therefore – even if you’re pulled from pillar to post – it’s always good fun working for him. Guy’s most at ease when he’s cooking, so we’ve had team meetings, and team debriefs while we cook. I think that’s really illustrative of how Guy likes to lead the charge. He’s a practitioner in this as well – this has all come together from him doing it.”

As Guy explains the myriad features and minute design choices that make WildKitchens so unique, you get an insight into the aesthetic vision – and attention to detail – that has gained him such admiration and acclaim as a director.

Entering the world as he sees it, every item is beautiful, yet ruthlessly selected and refined to be as functional as it is easy on the eye.

Gazing across the lake, we can see another part of the emerging Cashmere Caveman world in the form of hunting-lodge style cabins, which will eventually become overnight destinations for guests and clients who come to enjoy the estate’s game shoots, fishing or hospitality – Ashcombe already houses Guy’s microbrewery, the Gritchie Brewing Company, with a bar and dining facilities.

Ten years in the making, the cabins are made from natural materials and minimal foundations, with a fully retractable roof. Guy plans for the entire structure to be assembled in less than 24 hours, intended as a more comfortable solution to film set trailers – and an aesthetically pleasing, one to boot. “You don’t make an impact, and you immerse yourself into a natural environment as quickly as possible,” Guy explains.

Rich adds that storytelling is a natural element of the filmmaker’s extra-curricular work.

“When Guy’s not film directing or scripting, the

businesses provide a brilliant conduit for his creativity and energy. He really invests his care and attention into each of [his brands].

“That’s weaving together tighter in terms of brand identity. Storytelling is clearly a huge part of his personality and character – all the [Gritchie] beers are named after lores.

He employs about 160 people which is quite significant. He’s created those businesses as a conduit for his creativity.”

Guy’s time spent on film sets is clearly a major inspiration for his creations, in both a practical and aesthetic sense – and with the WildKitchen complete he is already reaping the benefits.

“Now on set we take a small [WildKitchen] and cook on it every day,” he says. “On The Covenant was the first [time], but it was only us using it because nobody else really knew what it did.”

Of the creation process, he says: “first you come up with the idea and then you moodboard the idea. You want it to have a certain aesthetic, so you want the wood, the real canvas; I didn’t want anything plastic. It’s a bit safari.”

When asked about the wider goals for Cashmere Caveman, Guy is unfazed. “I’m just the creative, I’m not really interested in the business of it,” he says.

This is where Rich comes in. “I think the big thing for me is that you’re working with a Hollywood-level creative director whose brain and mind are wired for creativity. He’s always moving at a real tempo and trying to keep pace with him is part of the challenge,” says Rich. “[Guy’s] hand is over the whole aesthetic 19

creative vision of what the Cashmere Caveman Company will become. The aspiration is to have a really strong presence in the outdoor living space, cabins, saunas, hot tubs, the whole panoply of outdoor spaces.

“We’re at the start of the journey [growing] something that’s distinctive and really British – you can tell from Guy’s films that that’s the cloth from which he’s cut,” he adds. “Winning the battle against the British Summer, hosting, having great company and enjoying whatever setting that’s in.”

It looks like this new concept is only the beginning for Guy’s dreams of getting back to nature, but for those yet to discover a taste of WildKitchen’s abilities, the director says fans may catch a glimpse in the upcoming series of The Gentlemen: “It gets quite enough credit…

You’ll see.” ccwildkitchens.com

Goodwood is known for its globally acclaimed events, including Goodwood Revival and Festival of Speed, but what other delights does this classic venue offer? Tempus explores the new facilities, culture and opportunities that define the spirit of Goodwood all year round

Words: Peter Malmstrom

I

t has been some years since I last visited Goodwood to enjoy both the horseracing at Glorious Goodwood and Goodwood Revival – the renowned classic car meeting – so I was thrilled when the opportunity arose to take a closer look at the estate to discover what new delights have been developed by The Duke of Richmond and his team.

Today, The Duke is the purveyor of some of Britain’s best-loved and most imaginative gatherings to inspire every stratum of mechanical enthusiasm. Set in 12,000 acres of countryside in the South Downs, the estate is best known for three of the biggest events in the calendar – the Festival of Speed, the Qatar Goodwood Festival (known as ‘Glorious Goodwood’) and Goodwood Revival – but also comprises an impressive annual Members' Meeting, and the new Goodwoof (a celebration of man’s best friend). All this, along with an organic farm and restaurants, two 18-hole golf courses, health club and aerodrome, means this is the place to be to see everything from a Sinclair C5 to a working Spitfire.

Since his father’s days with the Goodwood Estate’s full focus on equine speed, power and beauty, The Duke has successfully expanded the estate’s reach and interest to mechanical horsepower, with pedigree beasts no less beautiful and desirable than the champion race horses of his father’s era.

The road to greatness is seldom linear and The Duke has faced his fair shares of challenges over the years in pursuit of his dream of expanding Goodwood’s events. “As we embrace the future and Goodwood continues to grow and evolve, we have bold ambitions to continue to take our estate beyond its historic roots in the English countryside where our sporting heritage began,” The Duke said. “Already recognised around the world for our flagship events… we want to be known as the home of exceptional luxury experiences.” » 20

MOTORING

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MOTORING

A DESTINATION FOR ALL SEASONS Goodwood stands in a beautiful part of the world, dominating the rolling hills between Chichester and Midhurst. The drive is pleasant and within easy reach of London, far enough away to be an adventure and close enough to make a day of it – or a short break away if you have time to enjoy the excellent facilities dotted across this picturesque part of West Sussex. Indeed, Goodwood boasts a newly refurbished hotel of its own, which is the perfect base for learning more about the variety of year-round events, enjoyed by an evergrowing base of enthusiasts of everything from motorsport and aeronautics to horse riding and hiking in the picturesque South Downs.

It is this spirit of common interest that, for me, sets Goodwood apart –and the Goodwood Hotel is a perfect example of this. Somehow, even passing people in the corridors is a more personal and cordial experience than many destinations, as you know that you are all there with a common interest and single purpose, even if as diverse as Goodwood itself.

The hotel boasts some well-appointed rooms and Farmer, Butcher, Chef – a lovely, intimate restaurant serving local, seasonal food – much of it sourced from the estate’s farm. The spa complex offers everything from tranquil relaxation to more energetic workout sessions, and beyond that the golf courses and conference facilities make this a versatile and enjoyable location from which to explore whatever your interest may be – from two wheels to two wings, or four wheels to four legs, Goodwood has it covered.

PHOTOS: NIGEL HARNIMAN, TOM BAIGENT, PETE SUMMERS, PA

RACING DREAMS Of particular interest to me was the Goodwood Road Racing Club (GRRC), which I thought would be a small, happy band of hard-core enthusiasts, burnt-faced from year-round open-topped motoring. I was delighted to be proved wrong, as I arrived at Goodwood

Motor Circuit to begin my experience. It was a stunning day and I, too, had opted for the roof-down experience in an aging but wellperforming Aston Martin Volante.

Upon arrival at the historic circuit, I was immediately struck by the stunning restoration of the control tower, pits, stands and ancillary buildings straddling the race track itself. From the last time I had seen it, racing this circuit some 20 years ago, it was a massive and very pleasurable shock with every detail recreated or restored to bring Goodwood’s vibrant racing history back to life. Equally impressive was the organisation. An army of stewards – dressed in white or orange period overalls to add to the historic feel – managing traffic and answering questions to an ever-increasing presence of enthusiasts.

I joined my fellow motoring enthusiasts at the new Aerodrome Café for some sustenance, and a brief on the day’s GRRC Regional Drive. Our journey would take us through the West Sussex countryside on preselected roads, delivering spectacular scenery, challenging driving – and many waypoints where participants could undertake a pitstop for a refreshing beverage or two before rejoining or remapping the circuit – to exactly meet our needs for a great day out.

The plan seemed a good one and the route well thought out.

It was a marvellously sunny day, and the Aerodrome Café was a great point to start to begin building excitement, thanks to views over the aerodrome where historic Spitfires regularly rotate from the grass airstrip.

The road trip was great as my fellow drivers and I took it easy with a wide spread of about 100 cars, from modern Ferrari’s to racemodified 1929 Ford Model Speedster and everything in between – far from the handful of bobble-hatted enthusiasts I had first imagined, this was an interesting group of people with diverse backgrounds and interests, all brought

On the road: The 80th Goodwood Members’ Meeting brought classic cars together in touring style (previous and right) before celebrations continued at Goodwood (below)

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together by a common love of motoring, and enjoyment of the strong social network and friendships that develop to cement the palpable feeling of inclusion and camaraderie.

BEST IN CLASS Even more impressive was the attendance at the Goodwood Road Racing Club’s Breakfast Club the following morning – a show and tell of all things motoring. Goodwood opens the circuit for this event, and the cars are lined up along the racetrack, creating a communal museum of every type of car and genre, from hot hatches to old classics and everything in between – the sight of Morris Minors and Sinclair C5s took me back to my youth.

With more than a thousand cars at the event, and a waiting list for available spaces, I was blown away by the support and reach of this organisation, which holds similar events up and down the country (and even abroad). Highly organised local “hubs” for the club offer regional events in addition to those based at its spiritual home at Goodwood. GRRC membership already sits at 7,000 (with an astonishing 10,000 Fellows) and is climbing fast – and I can see why.

Offering several membership tiers and exclusive event access that caters for every motorist’s taste, with the backdrop of Goodwood’s new facilities, combined with meticulous planning and accoutrement, this is a well-established and prestigious members’ club that supports and enjoys Goodwood all year round.

Far from a venue that thrives on flagship events alone, Goodwood and its many devotees can enjoy unbridled mechanical voyeurism combined with a strong social element at its core that showed me why, from facilities to events, Goodwood is definitely fully revived. goodwood.com

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Time After Time Bucherer’s Pierre Hardouin tells Tempus about the market power of certified pre-owned watches – and why our love affair with vintage timepieces remains an enduring trend

W

atches have forever been paragons of style and expressions of our identity. The allure of owning an exclusive luxury product without extensive waiting times is all-too appealing for prospective buyers.

Over the past five years, the demand for the watch industry’s most iconic timepieces has increased exponentially, gaining admiration for their meticulous craftsmanship and iconic style. Laterally, watches have become an investment, commanding high premiums with the expectation that the value of certain models will continue to rise with time. Yet, timepieces are subject to a rigorous and lengthy manufacture process – a process further impacted by the Covid-19 pandemic – which is unable to meet current global demand.

Since this surge in interest, we have seen preowned watches evolve into an affordable entry into luxury watch ownership evolve into an opportunity for customers to bypass demand and obtain the watches they desire. Coupled with a strong investment performance, the appetite for pre-owned watches has also inspired buyers to actively seek vintage models within a brand’s past catalogue.

As trends and style preferences continue to fluctuate, we’re seeing a pivotal shift toward smaller dress watches among young collectors. Inspired by art deco watches of the 1920s-1950s, dress watches have become an expression of quiet luxury. And these are no longer tied to the tuxedo – their subtle aesthetic and slim profile offers an unmatched versatility in today’s world.

Every vintage watch encapsulates an era of styles and attitudes – a relic of generational designs paving the way for watchmaking standards and innovations today. From quietly discontinued, unconventional creations from the 1970s, to brand-defining icons still in production today, vintage watch collecting opens up an expansive catalogue spanning decades. The sheer number of options inspires a

deep-dive into rare variations in dial architecture or collectible case designs – details of which a whole collection can be built around.

Furthermore, every vintage watch carries a story of its own beyond its mere manufacture.

From military deployment, motor racing and weddings, watches accompany their owners throughout life’s most poignant moments.

Every knock, ding and even dial discolouration represent a life well-lived and has become preferential to collectors as a sign of authenticity.

One memorable interaction came from a gentleman looking to upgrade his timepiece originally purchased while [he was] working in the motor racing industry in the late 1970s.

The watch had accompanied him throughout the majority of his life, and was memorably worn when retrieving a racing driver from his crashed vehicle – the watch undergoing a few scrapes in the process.

As the time came to upgrade to a newer model, the customer was staggered to learn how the value of his old watch had appreciated from

the day he paid for it. The customer left with a considerable smile and a brand-new watch, having traded in his faithful companion.

AUTHENTICITY AND CONFIDENCE Traditionally, the avenues for pre-owned watch purchasing include an element of risk. Without inspection from accredited watchmakers (a resource that not many retailers have to-hand), the end customer accepts the possibility that one of more components of their watch is not genuine.

We identified a demand among savvy consumers looking to expand their collections with rare collector’s watches from bygone eras – an infectious appetite too difficult to ignore.

Collectors were looking to the past for historical designs to enhance their collections, a passion that we were eager to channel through a luxury retail experience and trusted buying process.

And so, 2019 marked Bucherer’s bold pursuit of redefining the pre-owned watch market – a decision inspired by our customers’ growing interest in historical timepieces proportionate to the unprecedented growth of the world of preloved timepieces. We offer a dynamic, trusted space to buy and trade iconic timepieces.

Through our Certified Pre-Owned (CPO) initiative, all risk of unauthenticity is eliminated through our meticulous certification process, which is conducted by one of our in-house brandaccredited watchmaker. We provide a full service to every CPO watch to ensure optimum function per the watch’s original tolerance and offer a two-year guarantee. The process of certification is meticulous and multi-layered to ensure an entirely risk-free process for our customers and includes a full assessment and authenticity check, ultrasonic cleaning, diagnostic test of all functions, servicing of movement, and time regulation and water-resistance tests.

Pierre Hardouin, Rolex – Certified Pre-Owned category manager at Bucherer UK bucherer.com

Second hand: Pierre Hardouin (inset); Certified Pre-Owned Audemars Piguet (right) 25

HIT THE

DECK With superyacht season in full swing, we bring you our guide to three of the most important boat shows in the calendar Words: Rory FH Smith

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hen it comes to showing off top-end transportation, there’s everything from hugely prestigious concours car shows to aircraft extravaganzas, but nothing comes close to a yacht show. Attracting some of the greatest floating fortresses ever created, the glitz and glamour of seeing hundreds of superyachts moored up in a sparkling bay is unparalleled.

Like a parking lot for the world’s wealthiest individuals, Monaco is the jewel in the crown of the yacht show calendar, which takes place 2730 September. Following that, attention turns across the Atlantic to the Fort Lauderdale

International Boat Show between 25-29 October, before the year is all but rounded off with the Abu Dhabi International Boat Show from 16-19 November.

With more than 200 boats heading to Monaco’s majestic Port Hercule, 1,300 expected to be floating in the bay in Fort Lauderdale and a further 50 lining up in Abu Dhabi, the yacht industry clearly remains in rude health.

But it’s not just about the boats. Parties, plush restaurants and super high-end shopping experiences await yacht show attendees. Here’s our guide on how to navigate the biggest and best yacht shows of the season. » 26

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Show-stopper: The 90m Lurssen Phoenix 2 is stealing the show at this year’s Monaco Yacht Show (this page and previous)

WHAT TO SEE While there’s no shortage of yachts, tenders and all the toys that go with a life well-lived at sea, not all craft are created equal. Sailing in to steal the show in Monaco is the 90m Lurssen Phoenix 2 on sale with yacht broker Cecil Wright for the handsome sum of €124.9m (EU VAT paid). With her interior and exterior based on the theme of Manhattan art deco opulence, she featues a beauty salon, movie theatre, spa, a hot tub on the roof, a beach club and a gym. Built for the late Polish billionaire Jan Kulczyk in 2010, Phoenix 2 has room for 12 guests and 28 crew. For those looking for something a little more sustainablyminded, the 39m sailing yacht State of Grace is for sale for a snip under €12m.

Making their debut at Fort Lauderdale – the world’s largest boat show – are two UK-built yachts: the 29m Princess Y95 and 27m Sunseeker Ocean 182, flying the flag for home-made luxury and craftsmanship on the high seas. While a smaller selection of yachts are on offer in Abu Dhabi, there’s still plenty to see from yacht builders Cranchi, Feadship, and Gulf Craft, as they showcase their greatest offerings in the Middle East.

Off the water, all three shows have an extensive list of events, covering everything from sustainability summits to adventure areas selling all the weird and wonderful yacht accessories you could dream of and even supercar shows. If you’re in the market for a multi-million-pound superyacht, you might as well buy a suitable motor or a submarine to match, right? »

Courtesy Cecil Wright

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THOSE IN THE MARKET FOR THEIR OWN SUPERYACHT WILL EASILY SLIP UNDER THE VELVET ROPES, OTHERWISE IT’S A GAME OF KNOWING THE MOVERS AND SHAKERS IN THE SUPERYACHT PARTY SCENE 30

YACHTS

WHERE TO STAY From Monaco to Miami, all three cities are awash with some of the finest hotels. Monaco’s decadent Hôtel de Paris in Casino Square is the place to be, with its three-Michelin-starred restaurant and appearance in two Bond blockbusters ensuring it’s full to bursting by the time the yacht show comes about. Failing that, check out the Monte-Carlo Bay, Hôtel Metropole, Hermitage or Columbus – all within walking distance of the show.

Across the Atlantic, Miami’s Fort Lauderdale is home to all the biggest names in the hotel business – from the Ritz-Carlton to the W. With most backing onto the beach and a stone’s throw from the show, the tried and tested hotel chains are hard to overlook when it comes to finding a place to kip on America’s East Coast.

As a city home to some of the most extreme urban architecture, it’s worth staying high in Abu Dhabi and soaking up the sights. From the imposing Emirates Palace Mandarin Oriental to the relatively low-rise Abu Dhabi Edition. The city is well-equipped and welcoming of visitors, so accommodation in one of its super hotels is plentiful and easy to access.

HOW TO PARTY Playing it right is the key to any yacht show, especially when surrounded by the rich and famous. No one wants to be escorted down the passerelle after spilling a tray of Pol Roger, so it’s wise to go armed with as much self-control as you can muster. Unsurprisingly, exclusivity is the key to the best events so bagging an invite is an art in itself.

Those in the market for their own superyacht will easily slip under the velvet ropes, otherwise it’s a game of knowing the movers and shakers in the superyacht party scene. For those failing to find an invite, Monaco’s well-established party scene will be in full swing with Jimmy’z, Quai des Artistes and Buddha Bar all firm favourites.

In Miami, the beach beckons for most yacht shoppers in need of some rest and relaxation, while Miami’s Art Deco Historic District along Ocean Drive is the perfect architectural escape.

Sit and soak up the sun, sea and palms and sample Miami’s laidback lifestyle.

In Abu Dhabi, the yacht show backs onto Formula One’s grand finale just a few days later between the 24-26 November. Held at the YAS Marina circuit, less than 30 minutes away by car, the race always attracts some of the biggest superyachts in the world, making it the perfect place to combine yachts with some high-octane racing and celebrity spotting.

Clockwise from left: Fort Lauderdale International Boat Show in Miami; Hotel de Paris, Monte-Carlo; The Abu Dhabi International Boat Show

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ART

EXHIBITIONISTS As the capital prepares for a month of artistic celebration, we preview the most exciting fairs and exhibitions putting London in the frame

Words: Stephanie Gavan

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hen it comes to art, London is a global player with a spoiled-forchoice selection of year-round exhibitions and galleries galore. Though the highlight of the city’s cultural calendar is undoubtedly Frieze, when the cream of curators, collectors and critics descend upon Regent’s Park to witness the wares of the world’s most influential dealers.

And this year is set to be particularly special, as the fair celebrates 20 years with its most international edition to date. Visitors can expect a dynamic programme of special projects, popups and brand collaborations that reaffirms London as a thriving cultural destination.

But even outside of Frieze’s orbit, you’ll find creative movers, shakers and art-spinning tastemakers revolutionising the city’s creative landscape with a flock of outward-looking satellite shows that share this year’s global perspective. We’ve rounded up some of the best events in town – so you know where to be and what to see this October. »

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FRIEZE LONDON One of the world’s most prestigious art fairs, Frieze London reflects the city’s status as an international art hub. Focusing exclusively on contemporary art created by living artists, this year’s fair has teamed up with some of the world’s most celebrated art stars to mark its 20th anniversary. Eight artists – including names like Tracy Emin and Wolfgang Tillmans – have each proposed one of their peers for a solo exhibition in a one-off Artist-to-Artist section.

Among the 160 galleries due to take part, notable newcomers include Ginny on Frederick, a shape-shifting gallery that made its name out of a sandwich shop.

Across London. 11-15 Oct frieze.com/fairs/frieze-london

Clockwise from above: Frieze London's 20th anniversary; Ashley Holmes at Frieze Masters; Gavin Turk's L’Âge d’Or; Jemima Wyman with Plume 20

STORY, PLACE Sydney-based gallery Sullivan+Strumpf take over 9 Cork Street, Frieze’s permanent exhibition space in Mayfair, with Story, Place, a group exhibition amplifying indigenous and diasporic voices from across the globe. Conceived by Australian artist Tony Albert and curator Jen Hall, the exhibition will explore ideas of land, ancestry, materiality, possession, and ultimately, hope. Bringing together an international group of contemporary artists with distinct yet shared experiences, Story, Place is an opportunity to reflect on inherited, invented or imposed narratives of home.

No. 9 Cork St. 5-29 Oct frieze.com/no9-cork-street

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FRIEZE MASTERS Back in its 11th edition, Frieze Masters is the art-historical arm of the fair, specialising in works made before 1980. Way before, in some cases – with some rare antiquities spanning six millennia. This year, however, there’s a special focus on the women of modernism, with a new section dedicated to female artists of the 19th and 20th centuries that have been largely overlooked by the canon. Another new section on our masters hit-list is Studio, curated by former Met chairman Sheena Wagstaff, which will explore the role of the workspace in the careers of five internationally renowned artists.

Across London. 11-15 Oct frieze.com/fairs/frieze-masters

FRIEZE SCULPTURE Since 2012, Frieze Sculpture has been braving the English weather to temporarily transform Regents Park into an open-air gallery. This year’s al-fresco addition to the Frieze trio probes how sculpture can be at once monumental and ephemeral with new work by leading artists in the medium such as Ghada Amer and Hank Willis Thomas. And with Turkish curator Fatos Üstek helming the show for the first time, you can expect a diverse range of approaches from conceptual and political to the downright funny. » Regent’s Park. 20 Sept-29 Oct frieze.com/fairs/friezesculpture

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WOMEN IN ART FAIR Here come the girls; Women in Art Fair is a new initiative dedicated to redressing the gender imbalance in the art industry. Their inaugural exhibit will be held at the Mall Galleries, and spread across all three spaces. In the West Gallery, you’ll find a 21-booth art fair, while the East Gallery will host Unnatural Women, an exhibition interrogating the complex relationship between women and nature, featuring work by the likes of Paula Rego and Marcelle Hanselaar. Additionally, the North Gallery will showcase pieces by lesser-known women artists responding to this year’s opencall theme, The World is a Family.

The Mall Galleries. 11-14 Oct mallgalleries.org.uk

Clockwise from above: Elangwe Sesse’s The Way I See It; stArt Fair at Saatchi Gallery; Pamela Singh’s Chipko Tree Huggers of the Himalayas #74; Geraldine Swayne’s Big Lips

RE/SISTERS At the Barbican, RE/SISTERS casts a critical lens upon issues of gender and ecology. Featuring over 50 women and gender non-conforming artists working across photography and film, the exhibition posits sexism and climate change as indivisible parts of a larger global struggle, and seeks to encourage a more reciprocal relationship to the planet. With a display of roughly 250 works, grouped across six thematic sections, the show is expansive to say the least.

But if you’re left wanting more, the accompanying programme of public events includes everything from movement and embodiment workshops to curator-led tours and topical book clubs.

Barbican. 5 Oct 2023-14 Jan 2024 barbican.org.uk/ReSisters

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1-54 CONTEMPORARY AFRICAN ART FAIR In-keeping with Frieze’s international focus, the 1-54 Contemporary African Art Fair is the first and only fair dedicated to contemporary African Art. Back for its 10th edition, the fair will be held in Somerset House and feature 50 galleries from 21 different countries, alongside a programme of talks, screenings, performances and workshops.

“We’re delighted to welcome more galleries than ever before with a significant number based on the continent,” says founding director Touria El Glaoui. Highlights include collaborative, music-inspired works from Nigerian singer Mr Eazi and an ambitious new courtyard installation, Illuminate the Light from Moroccan multidisciplinary artist Amine El Gotaibi.

Somerset House. 12-15 October 1-54.com

START FAIR Another fair marking its decennary in 2023 is stArt, an independent fair which, in its championing of emerging artists from across the globe, has been the catalyst for many creative careers. This year, the Prince’s Foundation School of Traditional Arts will present over 50 MA students’ work from the past decade, and, in the spirit of creative Britannia, Ben Mosely, the Official Team GB artist, will be live painting throughout the event. Be sure to keep an eye out for the intricate 3D paper works of artist Lisa Lloyd and the totem-like ceramics of sculptor Katya Emelyanova.

Saatchi Gallery. 11-15 Oct startartfair.com

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Leading by...

Meet the changemakers and innovators transforming the luxury world for the better

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PHOTOS: PA IMAGES/ALAMY.COM; MERCEDES-AMG

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uxury has always been a space for innovation but, in recent times, there is a growing sense that, with great wealth, there is an equally great opportunity to inspire true and lasting change. Whether that is pushing the boundaries of technology to put our health decisions in our own hands, by going back to grass roots to make a sustainable impact, or by demonstrating top-down leadership that inspires success and protects heritage craftsmanship while investing in new ideas.

These changemakers make an impact that reaches beyond their immediate interests, and help lead the way in bringing the most exciting ideas and solutions to wider audiences.

Here, we celebrate some of the most inspiring leaders working across different areas, through influence, sustainability, community and technology. Read on to discover 12 of the world’s most exciting changemakers on Tempus’s inaugural Leaders List… »

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01 Influence

In an era where actions speak louder than words, true visionaries can shape narratives and foster a culture of progress. Through their endeavours, they not only spearhead transformation but invigorate others to become architects of meaningful change, building a landscape that is ripe for innovation 40

BERNARD ARNAULT The founder and CEO of the world’s largest luxury goods company, LVMH, Bernard Arnault’s empire includes 75 high-end brands including Dior, Sephora and Tiffany & Co (acquired in 2021 for a record-breaking $15.8bn). With a personal net worth of $195.1bn (£157.7bn), Bernard is no stranger to the finer things. Alongside his private island, superyacht and jets, his art collection includes masterpieces by Andy Warhol, JeanMichel Basquiat and Pablo Picasso. But it’s Bernard’s leadership style that marks his enduring influence. At LVMH, he emphasises creativity and artistry – investing in the heritage and personality of each individual brand. “I see myself as an ambassador of French heritage and French culture. What we create is emblematic,” he said.

He also believes that a family business approach allows for a more impactful culture and the freedom to think long-term. Bernard’s five children – Delphine, Antoine, Alexandre, Frédéric and Jean – are all involved with LVMH. “I’m not that interested in the numbers of the next six months,” he said. “What I am interested in is that the desire for the brand will be the same in 10 years as it is today.” lvmh.com

LEENA NAIR Leena Nair has been Global CEO of Chanel since 2021 and is known as one of the world’s most purpose-driven leaders. The pioneering businesswoman was considered an outsider in the fashion world but, for Chanel – which employs 32,000 people globally – her people-focused leadership style was worth betting on. “Nair has built a global reputation for progressive and human-centred leadership, delivering significant business impact,” Chanel wrote about her appointment. In 2022 the brand reported revenues of $17bn (£13.4bn); a 17% increase year on year.

Before joining Chanel, Leena was Unilever’s first female, first Asian and youngest-ever CHRO, cementing Unilever’s socially conscious reputation by championing robust inclusive and diverse recruitment as well as ground-breaking pledges to pay living wage across the supply chain and provide training for 10million young people by 2030. “Being the first woman in every single job I have done means I get to see just what it means to be in a job that feels built for someone else,” she told Harper’s Bazaar in 2021. “My experiences have made me incredibly conscious of wanting the workplace to work for everyone.” chanel.com

ROBIN BIRLEY When club impresario Robin Birley founded the ultra-exclusive 5 Hertford Street in London’s Mayfair in 2012, it was as visionary as the launch of his late father Mark’s iconic Annabel’s. 5H opened to immediate accolade – Mick Jagger, Kate Moss and Daphne Guinness were all spotted in the first week – thanks to its ultraexclusivity and opulent bonhomie. The ‘king of clubs’ followed his success with Oswald’s, a club dedicated to the glory of wine, in 2018. With a strict no photos policy, restaurant and excellent cellar, it’s no wonder this is where Princess Anne, Lady Margarita Armstrong-Jones and Princess Marie-Chantal of Greece chose to spend the evening before King Charles’s coronation. A true example of following one’s passions, the entrepreneur launched a homeware collection, ‘Birley’ last year, followed in April 2023 by the Birley Bakery – an upscale café in Chelsea.

“Comfort is king,” Robin told How to Spend It of his winning aesthetic, adding that he’s not happy “until things are right. I think people yearn for that. They want something personal”. » birleybakery.com 41

HSH PRINCE ALBERT II OF MONACO Monaco has long held a reputation as the playground of the rich and famous but, in recent years, it has also become the home of ocean conservation thanks to the efforts and interest of its ruling royal, Prince Albert II. It’s little wonder the Prince would focus his work on the ocean – as he told Tempus in 2019: “Monaco’s destiny has always been linked to the sea.”

Prince Albert founded his eponymous Foundation in 2006 to tackle climate change and combat loss of biodiversity. To date, the foundation has awarded €101m to more than 720 projects globally, including the MedFund and the Global Fund for Coral Reefs. At this year’s Monaco Ocean Week, Albert launched a new private investment fund, ReOcean, designed to protect the seas. “The ocean needs us, the ocean needs you,” he said. “We must learn to make better use of the seas, relying on solid scientific expertise, demonstrating creativity and audacity, and of course involving economic players.” fpa2.org

CAROLINE SCHEUFELE It was 26 years ago that Chopard’s co-president and artistic director, Caroline Scheufele, first contacted Cannes International Film Festival to redesign its Palme d’Or trophy and become the festival’s official partner. In 2013, Caroline chose the festival to debut the first ever Green Carpet of ethical jewels – certified by the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) – in collaboration with Livia Firth’s Eco-Age sustainability consultancy.

It was a major step in Caroline’s sustainability commitment and, in 2018, Chopard announced it would be the first watch and jewellery maison to use 100% ethical gold in its haute jewellery. Their gold is Fairmined certified throughout the supply chain, with diamonds and coloured gems are RJCcertified. Today, that commitment permeates every part of the company: Chopard watches will use 80% recycled steel in its Lucent Steel alloy, while perfumes ingredients are ethically sourced.

“It is a bold commitment, but one that we must pursue if we are to make a difference to the lives of people who make our business possible,” she told Elite Traveler last year. chopard.com

RAYMOND BLANC OBE While farm to plate cuisine has become ever more popular in today’s environmentallyconscious world, few are so synonymous with sustainable cooking as Raymond Blanc OBE. For 20 years, his world-renowned, two-Michelinstarred gourmet experience at Belmond Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons in Oxfordshire has stood as the perfect example of the chef ’s ethos: locally sourced ingredients – many of which are produced on site thanks to his two-acres of organic vegetable gardens – exceptional seasonal menus, and hands-on learning via his cooking and gardening schools. “My parents taught me from a young age about the importance of growing your own produce,” he told Tempus last year. “The importance of seasonality has always been my philosophy.”

While Le Manoir is led by Raymond’s philosophy, his impact and passion casts a much wider net: he is the president of the Sustainable Restaurant Association, and his decade-long partnership with Eurostar has seen the brand adopt a seasonable, sustainable menu. Bon appetit! » raymondblanc.com 42

02 Sustainability The need for sustainability in all our ventures has never been more important. By weaving a green ethos into the very fabric of their ventures, these trailblazers are not only preserving the Earth's finite resources but are sculpting a legacy of mindful opulence for generations to come 43

03 Community At the heart of enduring change lies a strong

sense of community, a space where ideas flourish through collective action. The luminaries in this sphere extend their hands to nurture a vibrant ecosystem, bridging gaps and fostering a milieu of solidarity and shared growth

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HENRY COOKSON Henry Cookson is one of the most important names in adventure travel, thanks to his extraordinary expeditions combining unique destinations with singular hospitality. Take, for example, Cookson Adventures’ Antarctic expeditions – which offer ice-climbing near historic research stations, ski touring and meeting with leading climate change scientists – or eco-conscious luxury camps allow access to off-limits locations from frozen lakes to Socotra’s dragon-blood tree forests.

The trips are more impressive when considering their impact on scientific research and community funding. Not only are Henry’s trips all carbon neutral, but each conscientiously supports and involves local communities and cultures throughout. Henry’s work has supported tribal communities, rehoming giant tortoises by helicopter – and even discovering a new species of killer whale. “Partnering with the likes of anthropologists and marine biologists grants our clients unique access to areas that are otherwise off-limits, getting them directly involved with the causes closest to their hearts,” says Henry. cooksonadventures.com CAROLINE RUSH CBE As CEO of the British Fashion Council, Caroline Rush CBE is a giant in the world of fashion – and the mastermind behind London Fashion Week’s (LFW) emergence as one of the “big four” global fashion events. Her work has long been focused on emerging talent – supporting Christopher Kane and Erdem before they were household names – and she spearheaded the NEWGEN talent scheme. Caroline was among the first to champion a gender neutral fashion week – the digital-only LFW 2020 merged womenswear and menswear, while LFW 2023 will host more gender neutral fashion brand than ever before.

She told the Evening Standard that LFW has “this brilliant halo effect for the whole of the British fashion industry, from textiles to streetwear brands and retailers. There’s a lot on the shoulders of the designers that are showing but the halo effect on all of the young businesses is massive.” britishfashioncouncil.co.uk SIR LEWIS HAMILTON As a world record-holding Formula 1 champion, Sir Lewis Hamilton’s impact in the sporting world cannot be overstated, but it is his philanthropy and advocacy that truly inspires a generation. He is known for taking a stand on and off the track, whether taking the knee for Black Lives Matter and speaking out against racism – he set up The Hamilton Commission to improve representation of Black people in UK motorsport – or being a staunch ally for LGTBQ* communities around the world.

If that wasn’t enough, Sir Lewis launched his charitable foundation, Mission 44, in 2021 to empower young people from underserved and disadvantaged communities. He donated £20m – 6.7% of his wealth – to social and charitable causes the following year. » mission44.org

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ADRIAN HALLMARK In 2018, Adrian Hallmark joined heritage luxury car marque Bentley Motors for a second time in his career, when he became Chairman and CEO. He previously held a board role in sales and marketing, redefining the brand with a growth strategy for a new generation of cars.

Now, he is putting Bentley at the forefront of technological growth with its first EV with selfdriving capability, due to launch in 2025.

While Adrian has already mastered the hybrid space, the fully-electric Bentleys will offer top performance – the first will have up to 1,400bhp and 0-60 miles per hour in 1.5 seconds – combined with cutting edge technology, with fully automated driving to follow. “Somebody once said to me, “Imagining the future is easy, but managing the transition is tough.’,” he told Entrepreneur Magazine. “We really want to create a positive impact, not only in terms of carbon emission, but in terms of values and making the world a little bit better as well.” bentleymotors.com SIR IVAN MENEZES When Sir Ivan Menezes chose to step down as chief executive of Diageo this year, he left a legacy of technological innovation and future-thinking for his successor, Debra Crew. Sadly, Sir Ivan died on 7 June, just weeks before he was due to retire.

His impact during his 10 years at the helm of the spirits brand was phenomenal, building it to an empire of 200 beverages.

Crucially, Sir Ivan welcomed new technologies in the quest for carbon-neutrality – the brand’s innovation and trials of cutting edge tech has seen them launch ground-breaking carbon neutral whisky distilleries, whether rebuilding ghost distilleries Brora and Port Ellen, or new distilleries in the US and China. diageo.com ANNE WOJCICKI Since founding 23andMe in 2006, co-founder and CEO Anne Wojcicki has put health into users’ hands with her pioneering take on home DNA kits. 23andMe has helped more than 13 million people learn more about their genetic heritage and amassed the second-largest genetic database of any company. Today, a handy app features genetic family history, health reports (including genetic indicators of ailments like Parkinson’s Disease and Type 2 Diabetes), and more quirky reveals (such as whether you’re likely to enjoy coriander, fear public speaking or hold in tune).

And with a range of scientific and research partnerships planned, Anne’s hope is that 23andMe will help the medical community.

She wrote for fortune.com of her hopes that by understanding genetic variants, we can “use that knowledge to guide healthcare and lifestyle decisions to help prevent the disease or find it earlier.”

23andme.com

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04 Technology In the modern world, technology is a potent

catalyst, driving the boundaries of what’s possible.

The vanguards of this domain harness the power

of digital realms and new industries to usher in an epoch of solutions, seamlessly melding tradition and innovation

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HEIGHTS of

HARMONY Japan’s Niseko Village is not just elusive powder and terrific skiing, it is also a luxurious sanctuary deeply connected to the mountain landscape and cultural roots Words: Ross Forbes

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estled in Hokkaido, Japan, Niseko Village is a legendary winter destination.

Known for its champagne-powder snow – of which it boasts 49 to 62ft annually over 2,191 acres of mountain land – it’s a haven for skiers and snowboarders alike. Enthusiasts chase this elusive ‘Japow’ (a term used to describe the region’s exceptional snow) with the same eagerness that locals show for a bowl of the region’s famous Sapporo ramen. The area has long captivated winter sports aficionados – and I was on a quest to find out why.

I was guided to two of Niseko Village’s crown jewels: The Green Leaf and Higashiyama, a RitzCarlton Reserve, which is the first of its kind in Japan. These aren’t just hotels; they’re integral to the Niseko experience, harmonising luxury with a genuine respect for the natural environment.

As I drove deeper into this snow-clad Eden, it became clear: Niseko Village is more than a winter playground; it’s a place where the land, culture, and luxury accommodations conspire to offer a profoundly enriching, exhilarating experience rarely found elsewhere in Japan. »

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TRAVEL

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A NEW LEAF The moment I walked into The Green Leaf Niseko Village, I could sense the seamless blend of traditional Japanese culture and modern sophistication. Created by the New York-based Champalimaud Design, The Green Leaf made an immediate impression. But this wasn’t just about aesthetics; it was a prelude to an extraordinary stay that promised both relaxation and real adventure.

Welcomed by the citrussy scent of yuzu wafting through the air and a steaming cup of green tea from the courteous hospitality team, my eyes wandered over the woodwork, furnishings, and an array of stunning artwork by local artist Emi Shiratori. It felt like the entire environment was crafted to slow down time, inviting guests to drink in the details.

After a long journey, we were in need of refreshments, so we ventured to Yang Shu Ten, a short stroll from the hotel. This culinary gem is renowned for its multi-course meals featuring Hokkaido’s finest produce and seafood, including Wagyu shabu shabu and sashimi. Paired with the exquisite Kamotsuru Gold sake, our evening became an atmospheric prelude to the rest of the trip.

The next day, morning light revealed a winter wonderland that beckoned us outdoors and, after a quick fill up on plenty of carbs at the Goshiki dining room, we were ready to hit the slopes. The snow here is akin to skiing on clouds. Imagine Siberian winds playing matchmaker with moisture from the Sea of Japan and voilà: you get this unreal, fluffy champagne powder – some of the lightest and driest in the world. Gliding through Niseko’s custom trails and naturally formed halfpipes, or weaving through its powder-filled glades, I couldn’t shake the feeling that I was tapping into some of the skiing world’s best-kept secrets.

Our guide, Samuel Watson, was more than just someone to help us shake off the cobwebs; he was a great teacher and local connoisseur. Beyond skiing, he led us to plenty of hidden gems — including Milk Kobo, a dairy farm renowned for its scrumptious milk buns. It’s these small, local experiences that transform a trip from a standard itinerary into something truly special.

Hot springs: The Green Leaf onsen (main) is just one of the hotel’s standout features for skiiers (above) 50

The day was so jam-packed with action, it felt like it flew by in the blink of an eye. Reluctantly, we stowed away our gear, already missing the slopes. But every cloud has a silver lining — in this case, a traditional Shiatsu massage at the incredible Juhyo Spa and then a trip to our hotel’s onsen — a natural hot spring considered one of the best in the area. Trust me, if you’ve been on the slopes, this is a non-negotiable experience.

Our dinner at Sisam in the Hilton Hotel just moments away, personally overseen by hotel manager Anthony Marrinan, encapsulated the trip. The Wagyu beef stole the show. It was in that moment, savouring the last sips of sake, that it clicked: The Green Leaf had delivered on its unspoken promise. It wasn’t just about luxury; it was a well-rounded, memorable journey, rich in culture and packed with adventure.

The next day, we were back on the slopes, eyes set on the highest peak of Mount Annupuri. The view from the top of the 1,308m peak was a jawdropper; unforgettable in every way. Skiing back down? Also unforgettable, but mostly because I was gripping my poles for dear life. Advanced skiers should have no trouble finding their next thrill here. »

IT FELT LIKE THE ENTIRE ENVIRONMENT WAS CRAFTED TO SLOW DOWN TIME, INVITING GUESTS TO DRINK IN THE DETAILS. 51

MOUNTAIN SANCTUARY Soon it was time to make our way toward Higashiyama Niseko Village, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve. You could feel the excitement building as the very landscape seemed to prepare us for an experience deeply imbued with the Japanese philosophy used by Higashiyama: kachou fuugetsu.

This wasn’t some tagline printed on brochures but an integral part of the stay. It means ‘discovering oneself through the beauty of nature’, and that principle was palpable in the smallest of details.

Upon our arrival, the architecture emerged as a harmonious blend of contemporary design and warm touches, instantly dissipating any remaining tension from our previous exploits. I entered my Yotei Suite and was immediately enveloped by a sense of harmonious luxury. Polished marble, fragrant cedar wood, and flame-brushed granite furnished the room, while the palette spoke softly in hues of beige, browns and subtle greens. The room felt like an extension of the surrounding landscape, especially with the commanding view of Mount Yotei just outside my window.

However, before fully soaking in this serene atmosphere, it was time to explore a different part of Hokkaido.

To contrast the serenity of the Ritz-Carlton Reserve, we made a brief foray into the vibrant enclave of Hirafu, specifically the bustling Musu bar and bistro. Though geographically close, Hirafu was an entirely different world — a concoction of lively energy and sophistication.

At Musu, the staff guided us through a tapas-style menu that was as cosmopolitan as it was grounded in Hokkaido’s bountiful produce.

The dishes not only married international flavours with local freshness but also encapsulated the unique character of Hirafu — a harmonious fusion of local charm and global flair. I recommend the kefta meatballs using locally sourced beef, a real winner.

Back at the hotel, I was happy to get some time alone to truly soak in the suite, and what better way than a nightcap – in my suite’s stunning bathroom. Named among the 20 most beautiful hotel bathrooms in the world by Travel + Leisure, the guest bathrooms are inspired by the local onsen tradition (similar to a natural spa). Paired with the breath-taking mountain views, it turned the simple act of bathing into something transformative.

The next morning began with an extraordinary mountain breakfast at Yukibana – how I wish every day could start, with unbeatable views of Mount Yotei shaping the very atmosphere. Niseko eggs benedict is the star of this in-house restaurant, and was better than any I’d had, thanks to its medley of Hokkaido king crab and onsen egg with a hit of red chilli pepper ito togarashi.

I later got a chance to visit Spa Chasi La Sothys in the hotel: ‘chasi’ meaning sanctuary in Hokkaido’s indigenous Ainu language. With treatments such as the Enrich Five and Secret de Sothys Luxury Body Ritual, it felt like each layer of stress was peeling away, grounding me in the present.

Soon, it was time to finish with a bang. Enter Sushi Nagi. Chef Taira Tsuneyoshi, a man of few words, was entirely focused on his craft, letting the flavours do the talking. Each piece of sushi, especially the sea urchin, or uni, felt like a culmination of our time here — a grand experience that captured the essence of Niseko’s unique blend of luxury and nature.

As I sat in the Ume Lounge later, a glass of Nikka Yoichi single malt whisky in hand, I began to reflect. Compared with bustling Tokyo – a place I often think of as synonymous with Japan – Hokkaido, and specifically Niseko Village, offer something distinctly different: a laidback pace, profound friendliness, and a connection to nature that I hadn’t expected before but deeply appreciated. From the hotels to the cuisine, everything here seemed carefully curated, yet utterly genuine.

Finally, as I sat on the plane home, ready for take-off, I couldn’t shake a nagging feeling of nostalgia. It’s as if Mount Yotei and the beautiful Niseko Village had etched itself onto my very being. The emotional weight wasn’t hyperbole or dramatic flair; it was genuine.

I wasn’t just leaving a location; I was parting ways with a series of remarkable experiences that had woven themselves into memories I’ll hold on to for life. thegreenleafhotel.com; ritzcarlton.com; ytlhotels.com 52

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KACHOU FUUGETSU - IT MEANS ‘DISCOVERING ONESELF THROUGH THE BEAUTY OF NATURE’, AND THAT PRINCIPLE WAS PALPABLE IN THE SMALLEST OF DETAILS. 53

Mountain living: Higashiyama Niseko Village exemplifies the philosophy of kachou fuugetsu

BRAND LOYALTY When the first branded residences began making waves on the property scene, many predicted this would be a short-lived fad. But, ten years later, are residences proving the future of affluent city living?

Words: Michelle Johnson

W

hen the Sherry-Netherland launched in New York’s Midtown Manhattan in 1927, it became the world’s first cooperate residential hotel, combining suites and apartments for hotel guests and owner-residents who desired hotel service from the comfort of their own homes. The Sherry, as it has long been known by guests, remained the blueprint for such luxurious residential hotels for decades to come.

Yet, in the last decade, branded residences have seen a boom in popularity the world over. Today, there are 640 luxury residential developments attached to brand worldwide according to Savills – whose 2021 report noted a growth of 230% – and the sector is expected to exceed 900 projects by 2026.

In a thriving market, this new generation of branded residences is setting a high bar in both exquisite home design and exciting locations.

Ultra-luxury hotel brands utilise hotel amenities such as butler service, 24-hour concierge, spas and wellness programmes, and restaurants

and bars to deliver a beyond five-star service to residents as well.

According to Knight Frank’s Global Branded Residences report 2023, North America accounts for almost 40% of projects, with Asia-Pacific (20%) and Europe (13%) closely following. Of the 52 countries where schemes are most popular, the US, Mexico the UAE, Thailand, UK and China all boast developments in the double-digits.

Leading the sector are hospitality groups such as Aman, Bulgari, The Dorchester Collection, Four Seasons, Mandarin Oriental, Raffles, Rosewood and The Ritz-Carlton, while recent launches such as Waldorf Astoria Residences New York are also shaking up the status quo.

“Over the past several years, we’ve seen a much greater demand for branded residential, with new schemes, competitors and concepts entering the space,” says James Price, Four Seasons’ vice president residential development, marketing and sales. “Within this however, we know that there are essential elements to attract HNW »

Lakeside real estate: Four Seasons Private Residences Lake Austin

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buyers: a prime location, inspiring design and exceptional amenities that foster a strong sense of community and belonging. Beyond these physical elements there is an expectation and demand for management and services, delivered to the very highest hotel standards.”

A NEW STANDARD As the boom continues, UHNW buyers are noting other benefits to owning branded residence properties. In a 2021 report, Savills identified key points of difference including the quality of the property build and its readiness occupy, professional management and security, rental potential of self-contained units with hotel offering, the assurance of high-quality services and amenities, and the prestige of owning a trophy property that benefits from strong – and authentic – brand association.

Charlie Walsh, head of sales for London’s The OWO Residences by Raffles, tells Tempus: “I think branded residences have to have a genuine service offering which justifies the branding.

Having branding for branding’s sake, in my mind, is merely a marketing gimmick.” For example, he adds, “The OWO will be the first Raffles-branded residences in Europe, but the key attraction over a standalone home will be the five-star turn-key service which will be available 24/7 to residents and, moreover, is right on their doorstep”.

As travel returns to pre-Covid-19 pandemic levels, there is a growing appetite for a hardworking second home, according to Knight Frank. “We noted in the 2021 Knight Frank Global Buyers Survey that 33% of respondents confirmed that the pandemic had made them

more likely to buy a second home,” writes Liam Bailey, global head of research at Knight Frank, in this year’s report.

“As evidence of this trend in March this year The Wealth Report revealed that around 17% of global UHNWIs purchased a new primary or second home in 2022. This percentage was ahead of the long-term trend and reflected the post-Covid boom in residential markets which supported housing investment through 2021 and 2022 – leading to very strong price growth in many prime international markets.”

Loretta Shanahan, senior director of sales at the Waldorf Astoria Residences New York, agrees: “We are very excited about bringing [Waldorf Astoria Residences] to the market after receiving thousands of inquiries from as close as Park Avenue to the far corners of the world. Rising mobility since the pandemic has coincided with the demand for second homes, however, buyers are seeking to buy for both primary and pied-à-terre.

“Buyers are drawn to the central and convenient location that The Waldorf Astoria offers, situated in close proximity to all resources whether that be for work, entertainment, dining, shopping and ease of transportation to all points in the city,” Loretta says. “The Waldorf Astoria’s reputation has been a deciding factor for buyers as they see it as a true destination hotel and have a deep respect for its history and legacy.”

According to the prime property experts, investment is also a key driver for affluent young buyers. “Often – but not always – branded residences will sell for a premium above their non-branded counterparts,” writes Lizzie 56

Lethbridge, residential research analyst. “This premium pricing is justified by the additional features that come with these properties: security; facilities; services; quality assurance provided by the brand; the ease of placing the property into a rental pool; and finally, the ‘lock up and leave’ nature of a well-managed property.”

LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION The most impressive branded residences in the world fall into two general categories: urban and resort. Almost 63% of properties are city residences, with 32% being resorts in warm climes, and ski resorts making up the remaining 6%.

In London alone, there will be 20 schemes open by 2030, with current residences including One Hyde Park at Mandarin Oriental – which launched 10 years ago – Mayfair Park residences »

Urban retreat: Four Seasons Residences Dubai at Jumeirah (above); Four Seasons Private Residences Bahrain Bay (opposite)

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New York, New York: The Waldorf Astoria Residences New York has evolved a Manhattan landmark

by the Dorchester Collection, No 1 Palace Street by the St Regis Residences, the Whiteley by Six Senses, and the Four Seasons Residences – Twenty Grosvenor Square.

“With each project we create, we are focused on the very best locations, designers and amenities, but what truly sets us apart are the people who bring the Four Seasons experience to life, and the trust, care and confidence buyers have that we will take care of both our residents and their most important asset – their home,” James tells Tempus. Twenty Grosvenor Square is just one of 57 residences within the brand’s global portfolio, which spans Europe, the Americas, Asia and Pacific, and Middle East and Africa.

“We have a 60+-year legacy of delivering exceptional hospitality experiences. We deliver the same service and care to our residents, and their homes, as we do our guests,” says James.

“We are also deeply involved in the entire process, from early stages of the development, onwards to acting as the ongoing property managers of the residence. We take care to understand the markets in which we operate, what amenities buyers are looking for, and adapt each scheme accordingly. For example, our upcoming project in Lake Austin [Texas] will appeal to those looking to be close to Austin’s downtown, while being more immersed in the natural surroundings with indoor-outdoor design, equipped with state-ofthe-art wellness offerings, and more.”

price of £8m for a two-bedroom apartment.

The Whitehall property exudes British heritage: Sir Winston Churchill, Lord Kitchener and Lord Haldane all had offices there, while Bond creator Ian Fleming was also a regular visitor. The expansive residences are accessible through the Spies Entrance, and blend grand Edwardian architecture with contemporary design, as well as offering private amenities such as resident lounges, private dining room, gym and fitness studios, wellness suite, 16-seat cinema, games room, and secure parking – all in addition to 24/7 hotel services.

“Branded residences are still relatively new in London in comparison to other global cities such as New York and Dubai, but the quality of lifestyle, amenity provision, exceptional levels of service offered and prestige associated with bestin-class hotel brands – like Raffles – is driving the growth in demand,” says Charlie. “We’re proud to say that the residences at The OWO are some of the most prized in the capital, on a par with the very best branded residences globally.”

As the trend continues to grow, offering ever better services and benefits in unique locations around the world, it’s clear that branded residences here to stay… and comfortably at home in the property market.

PART OF HISTORY Another benefit to city buyers is the unique chance to own a piece of architectural history – as in the case of Waldorf Astoria Residences New York and London’s latest launch, the OWO Residences by Raffles.

Waldorf Astoria Residences launched in March 2023 to offer luxury Park Avenue condominiums, which start from $1.8 million (£1.4m) and range from studio to four-bedroom penthouses. The condos offer interior décor by Jean-Louis Deniot and 50,000 sq ft of private amenities – including pool, fitness centre and spas, four private bars, function rooms, a theatre and library, executive lounge and more.

“Legacy brands such as the Waldorf Astoria offer a rare gem in the property market, we are offering the opportunity to buy into a legacy that can never again be duplicated,” says Loretta. “The Waldorf Astoria New York has been home to Hollywood’s elite, host to countless world leaders, and the site of famed cultural events and galas.”

Similarly, in London, the newly completed Raffles residences have transformed the historic Old War Office to great excitement – 60% of the 85 residences have already sold ahead of the official opening on 29 September, with a starting

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LEGACY BRANDS SUCH AS THE WALDORF ASTORIA OFFER A RARE GEM... [AN] OPPORTUNITY TO BUY INTO A LEGACY THAT CAN NEVER AGAIN BE DUPLICATED – Loretta Shanahan

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DESERT JEWEL Six years since the Bulgari Resort Dubai brought Mediterranean style to the Middle East, we explore how it is still redefining the cuisine and culture of Jumeirah Bay Words: Stephanie Gavan

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owhere does decadence quite like Dubai. It’s hard to believe that only a century ago, this post-modern playground of man-made islands and cloudscraping towers was but a desert town of Bedouin traders. Frankly, as I’m whisked from the airport along Sheikh Zayed Road (lined by an intoxicating stretch of soaring silver buildings) it’s hard to believe Dubai is a city at all. The pearl divers that mined this coast for centuries offer one explanation for its high-bling ambition; an enduring penchant for all things dazzling reflected in its reputation as the jewel of the Middle East. So, when Bulgari, Italian purveyor of precious stones, opened its Dubai resort back in 2017, you could say it was fated.

Sculpted and set on Jumeirah Bay, a private man-made island that curves like a seahorse, Bulgari Resort Dubai is the fifth property in the maison’s portfolio. It may also be among the most exceptional, spanning 1.4million square feet of dolce vita distinction with a private white sand beach, two pools and extensive spa and fitness centre. It’s a welcome tonic from downtown’s superlative sweep; while the Burj Khalifa’s sky-piercing needle looms in the background, here opulence gets a low-key – and comparatively low-rise – makeover, a sand-hued fortress against gilt and glitz that feels more akin to a Mediterranean village than an urban resort. That said, it does have its moments: at the main swimming pool, for example, which is inlaid with gold Bisazza tiles; or at the 46-berth marina, where you’ll find an encyclopaedic index of luxury yachts bobbing on the water.

My home for the next few days is one of the 20 stand-alone villas, each tastefully dressed in subtle shades of champagne and caramel with a hearty sprinkling of all-Italian accents; Enzo degli Angiuoni cashmere throws, bathrooms clad in travertine marble and bespoke furnishings by the likes of Maxalto and Flexform. The spacious sundeck and its private pool are a godsend for seclusion-seekers and social skylarkers alike, with al fresco apparatus designed for both revelling and retreating. But the devil really is in the details: brimming bowls of fresh fruit, bell jars replenished daily with sugar-dusted Italian pastries like sfogliatelle or amaretti di mombaruzzo, blooming bouquets, and – my particular favourite – a monogrammed, leather-trim beach bag. After an hour perusing the pillow menu, testing out the soaking tub and scoping out the bar, I reluctantly vacate to honour my dinner reservation at the Bulgari Yacht Club.

Here, wood panelled walls are lined with vintage black and white snaps of Sophia Loren lapping up the sun from the deck of a Riva boat, or a beach-bound Bardot catching rays in Capri, while staff dressed in naval-inspired uniforms serve elevated Mediterranean fare – John Dory with artichokes and pistachio, or cardinali pastas filled with lobster, tomatoes and ginger – on bespoke Richard Ginori china, no less.

A FINE (DINING) SURPRISE While Dubai isn’t typically known as a foodie destination, its gastro-scene is finally coming to a boil, in no small part thanks to the resort’s

Precious gem: Seven years since it first launched, Bulgari Resort Dubai is still a vanguard of food and style two Michelin-starred restaurants, Niko Romito and Hoseki. The former, helmed by Abruzzoborn Niko encapsulates everything that is great about Italian cuisine – quality, authenticity, simplicity. Despite the white-linen setting, bread is always the humble protagonist at the centre of Romito’s table, around which revolve a delectable cast of favourites from butter-bathed plates of handmade tortelli to cocoa-dusted tiramisu.

Meanwhile Hoseki is an intimate and more experimental affair, with just nine seats wrapped round an open kitchen and framed by views of the twinkling city lights below. In keeping with the Japanese tradition of omakase, courses are selected by Chef Sugiyama, a sixthgeneration sushi-master, who lets the reactions of his diners guide the experience. In my case that meant exquisitely prepared slivers of fresh, Japanese fish (horse mackerel, sea eel, tuna cheek) paired with heaps of wasabi grated straight from the root.

The resort’s signature Il Bar is equally esteemed, having snapped up a place on the World’s 50 Best Bars list in 2022. Hotel connoisseurs may recognise the design of the black ellipse arch bar, which has been plucked straight from the group’s Milanese outpost – though this time it’s moustachioed Dario Schiavoni (previously of Rome’s La Pergola) you’ll find behind it, stirring and shaking his way through the evening like a modern-day alchemist; and I don’t use that word lightly – his crystal-clear espresso martini is nothing short of magic.

After a weekend of wining and dining, my final day on the island begins on a more salubrious note. A stint in the sauna negates the lingering effects of last night’s third sidecar and an Augustinus Bader facial leaves me almost as glowing as the gold mosaic statement wall of the indoor spa pool. I stroll through the resort’s wide boulevards and admire slabs of arabescarto marble set against coral-like brisesoleils that extend from each building – a nod to the reefs that surround the coast as well as protection from the unrelenting Arabian sun.

A blown-up portrait of Monica Vitti grabs my attention as I stop for a cup of ginger tea in the lobby. Set against a wall of Breccia Medicea marble, the ethereal, tousle-haired beauty stares down the lens dressed in some seriously sizable jewels. And of course, these are not just any jewels. These are the diamond-fringed Colombian emeralds of Bulgari’s iconic 1961 Seven Wonders necklace.

Elizabeth Taylor, one of the jeweller’s most prominent patrons said, “I’ve never thought of my jewellery as trophies… for we are only temporary custodians of beauty.” Likewise, a great hotel inspires similar pleasures, not those anchored in permanence but in fleeting, ephemeral moments where the world seems to spin with a renewed sense of grace. bulgarihotels.com

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THIS IS A SAND-HUED FORTRESS AGAINST GILT AND GLITZ THAT FEELS MORE AKIN TO A MEDITERRANEAN VILLAGE THAN AN URBAN RESORT

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Knightsbridge Circle’s Stuart McNeill

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on today’s luxury travel trends and what goes into creating the ultimate unique experiences

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e like to call ourselves an extension of the clients’ personal office,” says Stuart McNeil, founder and CEO of Knightsbridge Circle. This luxury concierge, travel and lifestyle agent describes itself as ‘the most exclusive concierge club in the world’ and, with a highly curated approach and limited members, one can see why. “[Our members] trust us to open seemingly closed doors and deliver amazing value, in the form of upgrades and negotiated prices,” says Stuart, emphasising that key to the company’s approach is a personal touch backed by genuine connections with people around the globe. “Other concierges seem to be hiding behind apps these days, whereas we at Knightsbridge Circle pride ourselves on face-to-face quality service.”

Knightsbridge Circle manages both day-to-day and extraordinary requests, with travel, hospitality and lifestyle being among the concierge’s areas of expertise. “Travel is our forte,” says Stuart. “I sit on the advisory panels for both Four Seasons Hotels & Resorts and Corinthia Hotels; we know everyone in luxury travel and our members benefit from our relationships. After two decades of experience, we have a very impressive concierge network – we know the best private chefs and maître d’s in the top restaurants and private members’ clubs.

“We are also arranging more and more personal shoppers.

Department stores and boutiques can have all of your items ready to try, with a glass of champagne,” he says. “We just did an amazing experience with the fabulous new products at Saks Fifth Avenue in New York.”

Stuart founded the company in 2012, after leaving American Express Centurion. “I felt there was an opportunity to take luxury travel and concierge to the next level,” he says. Core to Knightsbridge Circle’s unique approach is the limited number of HNW global clients invited to become members. “Our personal managers look after just five members each, which is the highest staff-to-member ratio in the world. We also cap our members to 50 in each city, which allows us to deliver unparalleled access and exceptional proactive service,” he says.

“In return, we negotiate exceptional value for our members.

It’s beautiful to watch relationships evolve between our members and their personal managers. We build transparent, trusting relationships and make ourselves irreplaceable. Our team-members have been invited to members’ birthday parties, weddings, bar mitzvahs, and to spend time on their yachts.”

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Million dollar itineraries: Stuart McNeill (left); The Four Seasons, Kyoto (above) 64

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UNIQUE EXPERIENCES The company’s global membership and expansive network of offices worldwide means they can offer a unique perspective on current trends and behaviours, but what becomes most clear is that individuality and authenticity are the most enduring movements.

“We are fortunate to have members from all around the world – different nationalities, religions and ages,” says Stuart. “Some of our members like wellpolished service whereas other prefer the ‘bare foot luxury’ approach.”

In terms of travel, Stuart says: “It’s been a busy summer in Europe, with private yachts being popular. As always, we’ve had lots of clients in the South of France and

Italy, and we have already arranged many trips to the Caribbean and the Maldives, and skiing in North America and Europe for the upcoming winter and festive season.

We are also working on some Africa trips for 2024,” he adds, pointing to next year’s potential ‘It’-location.

“Our clients want unique experiences,” he says. “For example, this summer we arranged a private concert at Andrea Bocelli’s villa in Forte dei Marmi, and next month a fabulous event in Paris, the Golden Vines Awards, [will see] Alain Ducasse keeping all guests well fed. We also arranged a private island in the Maldives for a multi-generational experience – the key factors were everyone being in the same place and security.”

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Another interesting insight is in how we travel. Stuart points to some clients who are taking the saying ‘it’s not the destination but the journey’ to a new level, by opting for slow travel in the form of transatlantic cruises where they can work from the comfort of a luxury liner, undisturbed by the rush of the world. However, this leisurely voyage is not for everyone.

“This is a new trend for a few of our members,” he says, “but, as no two members are alike, we’re finding that others are still very much living life in the fast lane and asking us when the new supersonic jet will fly from New York to London in 90 minutes.” knightsbridgecircle.com

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U N D E R T H E R A DA R Deep underground in a climatecontrolled, undisclosed location lies London’s secret supercar vault. Windrush car storage and concierge service takes car care up a gear for the ultra-rich and world famous – including rock and pop stars and members of foreign royal families Words: Charlotte Vowden

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rust is hard-earned and easily lost in the clandestine world of stealth car storage; discretion is an obsession and secrecy is a must. “There is nothing complacent about what we do,” attests Tim Earnshaw, the founder of Windrush, London’s most exclusive, secure and state-of-the-art automotive hiding place.

“You can ask me anything you want,” Tim offers, amiably, but he is tight-lipped about the specifics. Most notably, the who and the what; he refuses to name names or discuss what anyone drives. “It’s all kept very anonymous.”

With a 230-car capacity, the combined worth of the vehicles under Windrush’s watch, which include some of the rarest and most valuable vehicles on the planet from Bugattis to Bentleys, is also a no-comment topic. This comes as no surprise; Windrush operates on a strictly need-to-know-basis.

Its location, “to the west of the capital,” is closely guarded. It has become part of the legend that shrouds the lives of London’s elite, and it lies deep beneath the city streets. “The address is only disclosed to those who have been vetted,” says Tim, “and the facility is protected by the same security system that’s installed at Fort Knox.” With no signage, there are no visible clues to its whereabouts and thousands of Londoners walk past its entrance every day. “From a personal security point of view it’s very safe, Windrush is hiding in plain sight.” To gain access, clients are given a time-specific entry code. “If someone doesn’t have an appointment, the door isn’t going to open. It’s as simple as that.” Whether you’re an A-lister, an aristocrat, entrepreneur or royalty, there are no exceptions. » 67

GOING UNDERGROUND Brightly lit, climate-controlled and immaculate in presentation, conditions in the subterranean facility are hushed and ambient. It’s curiously soothing. The air, not too dry and not too damp, is dehumidified to a constant 55% relative humidity; the rust-preventing ideal. It’s kind to tyres, electronics, leather trim and upholstery too.

Upon arrival, each vehicle is treated to a valet from nose to tail. Cleaning and preening products are tailored to the needs of each car, and if you like a snack when you’re in the driving seat (a habit considered a sin by some) any evidence will be discreetly removed. With blushes saved, the cars wear a breathable blue uniform, but their super swish covering doesn’t conceal their silhouettes. Open days and coffee meets are entirely out of the question. A nophoto policy is also in place.

“I have to pinch myself when I think about what’s here,” teases Tim. “It was a humble beginning 20 years ago that started with a genuine passion to look after other people’s cars like I look after my own.” His concept, to establish a ISO9001-certified car storage and concierge service, was a world first. “[ISO] is an internationally recognised standard of excellence,” and to maintain it necessitates an exhaustive attention to detail. “I’ve always been quite particular,” he says, by way of explanation, but a five-year stint working in Formula 1 hospitality for Ferrari helped tailor the modus operandi at Windrush. “It doesn’t matter whether you’ve got a Mini or a McLaren, we offer one standardised, five-star, personalised package.”

The fee affords a 24/7/365 service, with commitment beginning at a minimum of one month. “We welcome classic cars, supercars, hybrid cars and electric cars,” says Tim, “and we’re often the first to receive brand-new cars. In those instances, the manufacturer will send their technician to show us the dos and don’ts.”

Owing to a programme of “active maintenance” which includes battery health checks and trickle charging as well as cars being given a bi-monthly run up to temperature, Windrush guarantees your ride will be ready to drive at a moment’s notice. Its clock will be set to the right time for when you pick it up. It’s the little things. And the big.

“We don’t do ‘no’,” insists Tim. “Whatever the question, whatever you want, the answer is always ‘yes’.” The only caveat being that requests comply within the law. Need your car to meet your private car jet on the tarmac in six hours? No problem.

Stuck in France with a broken-down Ferrari? Your Porsche will be there to replace it by sunrise. “We are pro-active and we never panic.”

CONFIDENTIAL CONCIERGE Known fondly as Windrush’s head butler, Alastair Main, the bunker’s General Manager, is the man that can and will make things happen.

His job is unpredictable, but it does have its perks. Delivering a one-off classic Aston Martin to one of London’s most prestigious five-star hotels in the middle of the night so that its owner could show it to friends is an anecdote he’s permitted to share. There are many that he is not – “I’ve completed some fairly unusual tasks,” he says – but requests can also be a matter of routine.

A service, repair or MOT can be arranged on behalf of “time poor,” owners, says Tim. “I almost become a PA,” adds Alastair. “Owners

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Behind the wheel: Tim Earnshaw (above) founded exclusive car concierge Windrush

ask my advice on everything from restoration to transportation of their vehicle overseas.”

Transparency is paramount; Windrush will only recommend a specialist or suppliers that have been personally tried and tested. “We don’t receive commission or back-handers,” says Tim, firmly, “it is always the customer’s choice.”

Windrush is a place, indeed a refuge, for owners as well as their cars. Staff are recruited by referral and in-house rules on confidentiality are extensive. It is forbidden to post anything on social media. “We get to know our clients, and they get to know us,” says Alastair. “You put what they do for a living out of your mind because we are there to care for something that is important to them, not to talk about their day job – however cool it might be. They are often self-made, and with that comes modesty,” adds Tim. There is, unfortunately, a malevolence that fuels the need for Windrush: the rise in highvalue car thefts. In 2022, the overall number of vehicles stolen in the capital topped 30,000 and just 1.6% of cases led to a charge. The daily average of unsolved car thefts totalled 74.

In 2023, between January and April, a spike in activity saw 19 Ferraris reported stolen.

According to the Metropolitan Police, nine of them went missing from Westminster, seven 69

from Kensington & Chelsea and one each from the boroughs of Hackney, Barnet and Croydon.

“Sadly there are a lot of jealous individuals out there,” says Tim, “I wouldn’t even park my Golf on the side of the road in London without expecting it to be keyed.”

Social media’s unprecedented ability to do both good and bad has played a significant part. During one weekend at the end of May, Windrush took receipt of 20 luxury vehicles.

“Owners were alerting followers to get their cars off the street, sharpish,” says Tim, but admits that “others like to show off what they’ve got”, which helps gangs locate their next target.

One alleged thief even filmed himself driving through central London in a stolen Ferrari. He was unashamedly boastful.

“Those kinds of individuals don’t stop to think that someone might have worked their socks off to buy that car. They are an indulgence, but they represent hard-earned escapism.” Closer to home, in the rare event that a Windrush client is acting under duress (it has happened) the appropriate authorities are always involved.

“We are in the business of making people happy and I’m proud Windrush is the name people think of in their time of distress, as well as in the longer-term. As collectible items, cars are exempt from capital gains tax and more often than not, their value often outweighs the cost of safe storage with us. It makes sense.” windrushcarstorage.co.uk

WE WELCOME CLASSIC CARS, SUPERCARS, HYBRID CARS AND ELECTRIC CARS, AND WE’RE OFTEN THE FIRST TO RECEIVE BRANDNEW CARS – Tim Earnshaw

BIGGER, BETTER,

FASTER We look back through the ages as Porsche celebrates 75 years in pursuit of sportscar perfection Words: Rory FH Smith

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or a very select group of people, the best just isn’t good enough. In 1933 Ernest Hives, head of Rolls-Royce Aero Engine division, saw the importance of a game-changing jet engine with the production of the Merlin; as far as tech pioneer Steve Jobs was concerned, the most powerful computers of the 1970s were too big and too hard to use. Similarly, Ferry Porsche didn’t think much of the sportscar offering back in the late 1940s. It was that conviction that drove him to develop his dream 75 years ago, giving birth to a marque that would become synonymous with the finest sportscars in the world: Porsche.

“In the beginning, I looked around and could not find quite the car I dreamed of, so I decided to build it myself,” said Ferry, commenting on a decision that would eventually see his name attached to some of the most successful sportscars in history. Then aged 37, Ferry was no

stranger to the motoring world. Having worked in the engineering department of his father – Ferdinand Porsche’s – company since 1931, Ferry had focused on creating the Type 360 Grand Prix race car for Italian marque Cisitalia but the dream of building his own take on a sportscar was inescapable.

While most people were thinking of producing practical cars in line with the post-war mentality, Ferry thought differently.

Together with his team, he shaped a small, sleek aluminium roadster body with rounded headlights and a split windscreen – a car that would be certified for road use in 1948 as the Porsche 356/1 Roadster and produced in Gmünd, Austria. Powered by a plucky 1.1-litre air-cooled flat-four engine from Volkswagen, the 356/1 had 35hp and weighed just 585 kilograms. Finished in silver with a red interior, the car could reach speeds of up to 83 mph. » 70

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While most would have been satisfied with the end result, Ferry Porsche wasn’t. Still restless, he continued to improve and enhance his creation, gradually improving the design rather than reinventing it – a philosophy that would go on to define the brand for the next 75 years.

Just three years on from the 356’s creation, Ferry’s father and founder of Porsche died at the age of 75, the same year that the company achieved a class victory at the gruelling 24 Hours of Le Mans with a modified version of the 356.

Despite the mixed emotions, Porsche’s first motorsport victory cemented Ferry’s creation as a thoroughbred sports car and kickstarted Porsche’s hugely successful string of motorsport victories over the following decades.

By the early 1960s, Porsche had proven itself as a leader in sports and performance cars with the 356 but a successor was needed. In September 1963, Porsche pulled the covers off its latest offering– the 901, designed by Ferry’s son, Ferdinand. As the car that would replace his father’s initial dream car, the 901 had a similar rounded silhouette but with more pronounced headlamps and an extra pair of seats. Just 84 901s were produced before Porsche was forced to change its name after Peugeot claimed it owned the rights to a three-digit number where the middle number was zero. A petty move from the French carmaker, perhaps but gave way to one of the most legendary three-digit designations in the world of sportscars: the 911.

DRIVING FORCE In the long and accomplished history of car design, few cars – if any – can match up to the 911’s instantly recognisable shape. The design has remained largely the same for six decades, with the rounded silhouette, rear-mounted flatsix engine, pronounced headlamps and fourseat set-up still present and correct. With the 911 seeing out the 1960s, the following decades would see Porsche go on to dominate the racing scene. Cars like the legendary 917 claimed the marque’s first overall win at Le Mans in 1970, while the engine Porsche developed in Formula One powered Niki Lauda to victory as World Champion in 1984. That same year, Porsche scooped the Paris-Dakar Rally win in an allwheel drive version of the 911. The sportscar maker was seemed unstoppable.

Alongside the many motorsport victories and podiums came a string of new sportscars to complement the 911, such as the front-engined 924, the V8-engined 928 that was ushered in to (unsuccessfully) replace the 911 and the boxy yet beautiful 944 in the early 1980s. Continuing to experiment in the 1990s, Porsche showcased the more affordable Boxster in 1993 ahead of Ferry Porsche’s passing in 1998 at the age of 88. Despite the death of its visionary father, the marque continued to test the water and came out with the controversial Cayenne SUV in 2002.

While SUVs are a staple of the automotive landscape today, Porsche took a risk in the early 2000s and in doing so, established its efforts in the performance SUV market well ahead of its competitors. Dialling up its sportscar credentials at the same time, the halo product

Porsche: Clockwise from above: Ferry Porsche, 911 Carrera 4 GTS, The Porsche 356/1 Roadster Carrera GT arrived in 2003 following in the 959’s tyre tracks and sparking a succession of highpowered hypercars that would sit above the 911. In 2013, the hybrid-powered 918 followed in the Carrera GT’s footsteps and just two years later, Porsche announced it was going electric with what would become the Taycan sports saloon in 2019. Carving out a path for Porsche to eventually electrify more of its range alongside the classic combustion-engined cars, the Taycan proved an all-electric future was something to get excited about.

Despite fielding a wide range of different shapes, sized and powered cars, Porsche remains steadfast in its mission to produce sportscars.

Still flying the flag for the marque is its definitive sportscar, the 911. Despite the formula for it dating back to the early 1960s, the 911 is still as practical and performance-orientated as ever.

Driving the latest 911 Carrera 4 GTS over 500 miles, laden with as much luggage as the front trunk will allow is effortless, even with a couple of children occupying the rear seats for the duration. From lugging loads and cruising on the motorway to blasting along a twisty b-road by yourself, Porsche’s tried and tested formula for a sportscar remains unrivalled.

What started as one man’s dream – his desire to create something better – sparked a sportscar company like no other. One capable of producing everything from performance SUVs to thoroughbred racers and all-electric hypercars.

Had Ferry Porsche not acted on his dream 75 years ago, the world of sportscars would be a very different place. Vocal in its plans to keep building its combustion-powered 911s for “as long as possible” alongside a largely electrified model range, Porsche looks set to keep the dream of practical sportscars with a penchant for performance alive for a while yet. porsche.com 72

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INSIDE THE SPORT OF KINGS From royal players to wild variations, Tempus takes a fresh look at the exciting world of polo Words: Judy Cogan

P

olo is the oldest team sport in the world. The first recorded tournament was held in 600 BC (Turkey versus Persia), but it’s thought the game dates to before recorded history itself. The now worldfamous professional equestrian sport, played everywhere from the UK to Argentina and Nigeria, was first played in the country that is now Iran as a training game for elite cavalry units, before being adopted and developed by the Persian royal family.

From there it spread to Tibet, China and Japan with the name ‘polo’ originating from the Tibetan word ‘pholo’ meaning ‘ball’. It wasn’t until 1869 that the first game took place in Britain (initially

called ‘hockey on horseback’) on Hounslow Heath, by officers stationed at Aldershot.

Today, it is a sport closely associated with high society and the British royal family – with King Charles and his sons the Prince of Wales and the Duke of Sussex all avid polo players.

In the 1930s and 40s polo was at its most popular in Hollywood. Famous personalities who played at the time included Bing Crosby, Clark Gable, Will Rogers, and Walt Disney.

Today, model Jodie Kidd is an avid player and Argentinian superstar player Nacho Figueras has modelled for designer Ralph Lauren – who introduced the now-iconic Polo shirt with pony insignia in 1972.

It's not just men’s fashion that has been inspired by the sport. Lady Diana Spencer wore a red “black sheep” novelty jumper during a polo match in 1981, before her marriage to the then Prince Charles – in September 2023 the same jumper fetched a staggering $1.14m (£920,000) in a Sotheby’s auction in New York.

In May this year, the Duchess of Sussex turned out to support her husband Prince Harry at the Santa Barbara Polo & Racquet Club, wearing polka-dots – a nod to the chocolate and white spotty dress worn by Vivian (Julia Roberts) to stomp the divots in a famous scene from the big-screen film classic Pretty Woman. »

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FAST & FURIOUS The international polo circuit spans 11 months of the year. Among the best-known traditional tournaments are the Argentine Open in Buenos Aires each November; the Dubai Polo Gold Cup Series from January-April, at the Al Habtoor Polo Resort; the US Open at Palm Beach, Florida, in April; the Polo de Paris, which takes over the French capital’s Bois de Boulogne from April-September; and the British Open Polo Championship for the Cowdray Gold Cup in July in the UK.

While polo is usually played on grass – aided by spectators who tread the divots between chukkas – variations on the sport include the spectacular annual Snow Polo World Cup in St Moritz, and the Richard Mille AlUla Desert Polo in Saudi Arabia, which will hold its third edition in January 2024.

Each team consists of four players – usually three professionals and their patron – each given a handicap rating based on their skill level. The world’s top ranked male players are all Argentinian – with Facundo Pieres, Bartolome

Castagnola Jr and Adolfo Cambiaso Jr leading the charge – while the UK’s Hazel Jackson and Nina Clarkin are the top-ranked women.

The match itself is divided by 7.5 minute chukkas, of which there are between four and six in a game. With such demanding gameplay, each player might use up to 10 ponies during a single match. Polo ponies are specially bred for quick bursts of speed, stamina, manoeuvrability and calm temperament – and can cost £100,000 each to buy, with an additional £36,000 per year to maintain and transport.

THE BRITISH OPEN Matt Sim, assistant polo manager at Cowdray Park Polo Club takes us behind the scenes:

You always have four players on a team with defined positions. The No.1 attacks, No.2 is midfielder, No.3 is the playmaker on the team and no.4 defends. One passionate player owns the team and then employs three professional players to play with them.

Often people don’t realise that there is no prize money. And Cowdray doesn’t keep any ponies – we are solely a tournament host and play over 35 tournaments throughout the season. Our 10 grounds are kept to the best standards by our superb ground staff and seasonal workers.

The two scorers and 2-4 goal judges

(depending on the level) have to be present at every match along with paramedics, a vet, two umpires and a third man. When we play 10 games in one day this becomes a beautifully precise balancing act.

We played 550 and 600 matches in 2021 and 2022, respectively – phenomenal so soon after the Covid-19 pandemic. The highlight of this year has to be the British Open Polo Championship for the Cowdray Gold Cup [in July, 2023]. The two semi-finals were a true display of the highest level of our sport and the final was a masterclass of the game.” cowdraypolo.co.uk

“Cowdray Park Polo Club is known globally as ‘The Home of British Polo’ and John Cowdray, 3rd Viscount Cowdray was instrumental in kickstarting polo after the Second World War. Thanks to his legacy Cowdray is one of, if not the, most aspirational polo club in the UK. The most successful teams are the ones that work well together and play to each other’s strengths and as a general rule the better a team is mounted the more success they will have.

Horse power: Cowdray Park Polo Club plays host to the annual British Open Gold Cup (this page and previous); Polo legend and Royal Salute ambassador Malcolm Borwick (right)

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SPORT

“The passion lies deep within” Renowned international polo player and global polo ambassador for Royal Salute, Malcolm Borwick (left) tells us why he is devoted to sharing his love of polo for future generations What’s the best thing about playing polo at professional level?

The amazing thing about polo is that it tests every aspect of your physical and mental prowess. The complexity of the game, both technically and tactically, means it’s like playing chess at Mach 5.

What attributes do you need to be a successful polo player?

It’s easy to get more and more frustrated as the game progresses so patience really is a virtue as well as, integrity. In the same way a master blender makes whisky, you need to create harmony within the team. You can then bring your own spin to the game; be a brilliant communicator and offer ideas garnished from years of competing experience, but from a team perspective, that bond of shared respect and friendship is the true essence of a great team.

Polo is steeped in heritage, what role do you play in continuing its legacy?

Polo’s legacy has continued out of respect for the complexity of the sport; you’ve got multiple horses, your teammates – often a mix of ages and gender in one team, you’ve got intricate yet physical tactics and adrenaline pumping and there is always something you could have done better. That’s what keeps you coming back. From a personal perspective, I feel the weight of responsibility of the history of the sport in the UK as my grandmother played in the first ever Ladies Polo Test Match in 1924, and her father was a nine-goal player who played for England. The passion lies deep within.

How do you keep new generations interested in polo?

My generation was the first to truly achieve a recognised professional level in the sport, so we’ve opened a very appealing pathway for new generations coming through. Across the international circuit – from China to the States – sophisticated new polo facilities are being built and are attracting fantastically talented new players bringing their own skill sets to a very modern version of the game. Also, not only is it a thrilling sport to play but it’s equally thrilling to watch. Those moments on the side-lines have become real cult social events.

What is the biggest misconception of polo?

In my experience most people think polo is a British sport, and if not British, then Indian or Argentinian, but actually, its very early origins are from what is now Iran, the very words we use in the sports, such as chukka are of Persian origin. Another is that we do not hit the ball with the small round end of the polo stick, like in croquet. We use the larger surface area. We are not so talented that we can hit a ball at 45 mph with a mallet the size of a golf ball.

Tell us your schedule as a professional polo player?

We’re on the circuit for 11.5 months of the year, playing an average of three matches a week during peak season so there is little respite and a huge requirement to maintain fitness. For players that means daily workouts (lots of pilates and yoga as we get older) as well as riding. We’ll also work with our horses for at least a couple of hours every morning and afternoon.

We need to respect the physical demands of polo in our diet, so during tournaments we will consume foods that are great energy sources. Postmatch I always turn to Jaffa Cakes – not just a lovely little biscuit, but a fantastic single source to replenish the nutrients we will have lost during the match. The very best way to toast a great game is always a Royal Salute whisky served as one finger of whisky to one of water.

Tell us about your role as World Polo Ambassador for Royal Salute?

It has been ongoing for 16 years as a truly collaborative relationship. Together we have been opening up the world of polo to new audiences. Playing on the beaches of Hainan Island in China is an experience that really sticks in my mind. A big part of my ambassadorial role is hosting polo clinics. These work at breaking down the perceived barriers around polo and increase understanding and engagement in the sport. royalsalute.com 77

STEALTH WEALTH Flaunt impeccable under-the-radar style with our pick of the designer brands embodying the ‘quiet luxury’ trend

Words: Polly Jean Harrison

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s the saying goes, ‘money talks, wealth whispers’. This is the ethos behind the rising trend of quiet luxury, reflective of a desire for a more subtle and sophisticated style that flies under the radar while still exuding elegance. Long gone are the bold logos and flashy labels, demonstrating you paid top dollar for a piece. Instead, proponents of this trend prefer unbranded, unfussy and – to some – uninspired style that doesn’t necessarily broadcast the price tag attached, instead opting for quality, well-fitting evergreen pieces that will last a lifetime.

At the heart of this stealth wealth movement is and character of understated elegance with a touch of suave swagger. Hitting the runway – and made even more popular through shows like Succession and effortless icons a la Gwyneth Paltrow – quiet luxury is more than just fashion, but rather a lifestyle movement from those who wish to say less about their wealth through their clothes and accessories and, instead, speak for themselves.

Brioni Light brown double splittable blouson in wool and cashmere (right)

BRIONI Though the Brioni tailored suit is considered the brand’s signature, their elegant sportswear is ideal for living more under the radar. A true gentleman’s staple, their modern jackets are a necessity, especially their customisable leather jackets. Everything in the Brioni collection can be made to measure, ensuring a perfect fit and making them entirely unique to you, while still maintaining that classic Italian tailored style however low-key your look.

FERRAGAMO White sneakers are having their moment, and are a classic staple for an evergreen wardrobe. Why not turn to the masters in footwear and leather goods for a modern touch to your look? With unique and understated designs that are wellmatched rivals of other labels, these shoes will last a lifetime if cared for correctly. For a subtle pop of colour, Ferragamo’s latest collection offers a range of almost space-age footwear ready to quietly turn heads. »

brioni.com

ferragamo.com

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STYLE

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CONNOLLY Beginning life as a family business of saddlers and shoe-smiths 140 years ago, Connolly soon became inseparable from the automotive world thanks to its high-quality leather interiors. It launched a new phase in 1995, which brought the same practical style and sumptuous fabrics to a range of car shoes and clothing that has only grown since 2000. Ralph Lauren once declared Connolly’s his “favourite store in the world”, and we can see why with its latest range of dresseddown cashmere hoodies, Shetland crew neck jumpers and class cricket vests. Perfect for looking great in cooler weather. connollyengland.com

PURDEY For effortless town and country elegance, look no further than Purdey. The sophisticated British brand, established in 1814, combines world-class gunmaking, leathergoods and clothing to perfect any shooting wardrobe. But the brand’s innate quality and style, neutral colours and hard-wearing fabrics, ensures that everything from barn jackets to country coats look just as cool in the city as they do in their more natural habitats.

Connolly Donegal Wool SB Oversized Martingale Coat (right); Connolly Cashmere Car Vest Navy Cardigan (below)

purdey.com

Purdey Cashmere Cable And Rib V Neck Cardigan In Drab

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STYLE LORO PIANA Loro Piana’s plain black baseball cap was the talk of the town after appearing on the head of Jeremy Strong’s character on Succession. This cashmere blend hat has a $625 dollar price tag and comes with the promise of enhanced refinement over your standard activewear.

Complete the look with a refined piece from the maison’s Re-Cashmere capsule collection, made from finest reclaimed and environmentally conscious cashmere wool. uk.loropiana.com

Ferragamo Running Sneaker in Brass

BRUNELLO CUCINELLI For shirts and jackets that exude modern, but refined, elegance, look no further than the pinnacle of Italian luxury. Inspired by Italy’s innately suave way of dressing, their buttondowns model ultimate simplicity while offering sophisticated fit and luxe fabrics. Throw one on with a well-fitting pair of jeans for something cool and casual, or wear with tailored pieces for understated professionalism. Tie the look together with a sportsjacket. brunellocucinelli.com

Bruno Cucinelli Autumn/Winter 2023 collection

THE QUIET LUXURY TREND REFLECTS A DESIRE FOR A MORE SUBTLE, SOPHISTICATED STYLE THAT FLIES UNDER THE RADAR WHILE STILL EXUDING ELEGANCE 81

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ART

RadiCal tHinKing How the artistic and social legacy of the Bloomsbury Group lives on at Charleston

Words: Judy Cogan

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f the walls of Charleston, the modernist home of artists Vanessa Bell and Duncan Grant, could talk they’d tell a thousand tales of the creatives who lived there for over 60 years — the discussions, the art, the parties and love affairs at the very heart of the Bloomsbury Group.

In 1916, on Virginia Woolf ’s recommendation, Bell and Grant moved into the 16th-century house with Bell’s sons, Julian and Quentin, and Grant’s lover, the writer David Garnett.

Walking around the house in East Sussex, you’ll see swirls of dusty pink paint, jet-black brushstrokes and gold chevrons, wardrobes decorated with honey-yellow swirls and framed self-portraits alongside colourful freehand murals.

“It very much feels like they have just left a room,” says Darren Clarke, head of collections at The Charleston Trust, set up in 1980 to restore the house to its 1950s heyday. “The worst thing would be if it felt like a shrine to Vanessa Bell and Duncan Grant. It’s not a history lesson. The conversations they were having still have a lot of relevance today.”

The chalk hills and open flats of land outside offered peace and privacy for the intellectual and artistic group, which included author TS Eliot, art critic Roger Fry and economist John Maynard Keynes, among others. It was their sanctuary from the impact of two world wars and the confines of society.

This privacy extended to the walled garden, redesigned in 1918 by Fry, with a rectangular lawn, gravel paths and flowerbeds, filled with flowers the group loved to paint. According to Darren, it was a “really special” place for creativity and quiet contemplation.

“It all started with a generation of young people, all from privileged backgrounds, out to find the freedom to live their own lives and to love who they wanted to love,” he says. And it wasn’t without trouble. “There was lots of jealousy and lots of arguments, but they gave it a go on their own terms,” he adds. “It’s such an important part of our history: for women’s rights and feminism and queer rights and art.

The whole ethos of the Bloomsbury Set was that friendship was the defining thing that brought them together. There was no agenda, no dogma, no manifesto. But they did believe that truth and honesty are really important and there was also a lot of fun and laughter, too.”

Today the trust invites artists from myriad interdisciplinary backgrounds to showcase their work. In 2018 the farm buildings onsite were converted into five new gallery spaces. An airy restaurant serves Italian street food, freshly made pasties and locally brewed coffee.

British fashion designer Kim Jones recently showcased his first Fendi couture collection at Charleston. A new exhibition: Bring No Clothes: Bloomsbury and Fashion, running until January 2024, explores the dynamic

relationship between the Bloomsbury Group and its impact on 21st century fashion.

The exhibition unfolds through a mix of contemporary fashion, historic artwork, objects and ephemera – many never seen before, such as portraits by Grant and Bell as well as catwalk fashion from Dior, Fendi, Burberry and Erdem.

The exhibition was curated by British fashion journalist Charlie Porter, and is accompanied by a coffee table book of the same title.

“The Bloomsbury Group engaged with fashion in dynamic ways, from philosophical thinking to radical dressing,” says Charlie. “Bring No Clothes uses garments to shed new light on their lives, as well as bring insight into how we dress today. By mixing together the past with the present, I hope the show encourages visitors to reconsider their future relationship with fashion.”

The exhibition is housed in a new venue in Lewes, seven miles down the road from Charleston. For Darren, the juxtaposition between old and new artists is “very exciting”.

“It’s not about what artist is making work that looks most like Vanessa Bell’s or who’s writing just like Virginia Woolf. We look at who’s doing really interesting work and I think that love and the passion the group can still generate is a potent and exciting thing.”

Bring No Clothes: Bloomsbury and Fashion, until 7 January 2024; charleston.org.uk

Bloomsbury Group: Charleston hosts the exhibition Bring No Clothes (left), inspired by a Virginia Woolf quote

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The secret keepers Haute jewellery mavericks Van Cleef & Arpels have blended the highest levels of gemmology with intricate watchmaking for over 100 years. Rainer Bernard exclusively tells Tempus what excites the craftspeople behind the world’s most glittering jewellery watches

Words: Michelle Johnson

“W

e don’t make watches,” says Rainer Bernard (pictured, left), as we meet in a private viewing room in Geneva to view Van Cleef & Arpels’ most artfully bejewelled novelties. “We fashion high jewellery that tells the time.”

It’s a telling distinction at the heart of Rainer’s work. He has been with the French jewellery maison for 12 years, heading up the brand’s research and development team, and is the creative force behind some of their most intricate fusions of jewellery and watchmaking.

It was under Rainer’s direction that the brand’s technical team successfully recreated the defining smooth reveal mechanism of the 1949 Ludo Secret Watch; a feat that allowed Van Cleef & Arpels to bring a range of playful secret watches centre stage at this year’s Watches & Wonders Geneva.

These novelties were led by jewel-encrusted Ludo Secret Watches, presented in 18k rose gold with a choice of sparkling diamonds or pink sapphires, and the unique single piece Ludo Secret Emerald Mystery Set. Similarly, new releases in the Perlée collection saw pendant watches framed with diamonds and hidden

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away by gold lids set with blue sapphires, emeralds or rubies.

In addition to these collections, the brand launched its only complication of the year – the Lady Féerie, which debuted unique enamel colours created in house – and two new automata, Floraison du Nénuphar and Eveil du Cyclamen. While not secret watches, both pieces continue the themes of transformation and revelation. While the Floraison du Nénuphar opens to reveal a butterfly in flight, both feature hidden fairies painstakingly set with tiny jewels and painted gold beads.

Crucially, none of the timepieces show or even make note of the impressive movements and mechanisms that power them. “At the centre of everything we do is the story we’re telling with the piece,” says Rainer. “We don’t want to show any part of the beautiful movements in the pieces, because the technique distracts from the story. Of course, if you’re interested as a client, we’ll show you. But the most important part of the story, for us, is the jewellery.”

Here, Rainer shares more about the sense of joy and spectacular gems powering the world of high jewellery watches… »

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WATCHES

Savoir faire: Van Cleef & Arpels blends haute jewellery and watchmaking

WHEN I GO TO THE OPERA, I WANT TO SEE THE SINGERS, THE STORY. I DON’T WANT TO SEE HOW IT’S DONE. IT’S THE SAME FOR OUR WATCHES – Rainer Bernard

Rainer, what’s the most exciting aspect of developing a new high jewellery watch?

I think it’s the shared search for a new story.

We have a very playful team; we laugh a lot.

When we find something new to explore, that’s very exciting; that moment of, ‘this could be something cool – let’s do it!’ For instance, in 2022, we launched the Lady Arpels Heures Florales, with flowers that open on the watch dial. We started with the story – what we wanted to say with this design – and only then did we start to explore how we were going to achieve it. It took several trials to find a new solution – we went back to the drawing board many times until a solution became more concrete.

One of this year’s most exciting novelties is the Ludo Secret Watch. What inspired this reimagining of the original design?

Secret watches are part of our DNA; we’ve been making them for a long time. In the early 1900s it was seen as un-chic for a woman to be wearing a wristwatch, and so the trend was to hide the watch in a piece of jewellery. Our Ludo Secret Watch is based on our founder Louis Arpels’ original bracelet idea and a Ludo watch from 1949. The 1949 watch is a masterpiece – it took us 73 years to learn how to remake it and then decide how we should go about modernising it, without breaking the aesthetic power of the piece.

We’ve updated the dial and mechanism, so that the spring and tubes are integrated into the watch. We also looked at the stone settings – you can see there is no visible metal between the diamonds – so it’s a very dense setting with a lot of reflection in the stones following the outer form. It is the perfect blending of high jewellery and watchmaking.

Why is it important to hide these technical elements?

Think of it like an opera. When I go to the opera, I want to see the singers, the decor, the story. I don’t want to see how it’s done – the cables or set changes. It’s the same for our watches. We don’t want to see the technical parts or the movement.

If you have rose gold hands, you don’t want to see the white head of the steel axle poking through.

If you look at the Ludo Secret Emerald Mystery Set, you can see the smoothness of the jewelled bracelet – we have ensured that the stone settings are the perfect shape, so the bracelet goes through the watch seamlessly. The technique serves the story; we are proud that we can hide all those details, because it’s actually more complicated than to showcase them.

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This year has also seen a revival in pendant watches, led by the Perlée. Could you tell us more?

We made our first pendant watch in 1912. It was simply a watch worn on a chain; there was no lid. This year’s modern Perlée Collection has six versions of the pendant watch, including three stone-set versions – sapphire, ruby and emerald – each with a bejewelled lid. The key to the beauty of the pieces is the quality of the stones and the evenness of the colour. Each gem is chosen by our stone department, so there is actually a lot of work that goes into the choice of the rough stone, and then the emeralds or other gems that are cut and chosen to match perfectly. It’s incredibly rare to achieve that subtle blend of colour.

Speaking of colour, the Lady Féerie is your only complication for 2023. What is special about this colour transition?

For this new interpretation of our Lady Féerie we developed our own enamelling colours. What you see on the dial is the Lady Féerie herself, a symbol of chance and luck, sitting on the clouds just before sundown. Behind her, the sky is becoming slightly rose-coloured, while around the sun it is still bright. It’s the perfect transition of colour on the guilloché. These colour transitions are extremely difficult to do – it took us two years to create the dial.

Could you tell us more about the Lady Féerie figure?

The Lady Féerie figure, at the centre of the dial, is created in exquisite detail. Her dress and tiara are decorated with diamonds, sapphires and golden beads, which are hand-painted to enhance the beauty of the dress. Her face is a rose-cut diamond and her gold wings are pliqueà-jour enamel and set with tiny brilliant-cut diamonds. But – another hidden secret – there are actually three fairies in the watch. Joining Lady Féerie is a second fairy, who sits on the instantaneous jumping hour hand, and we have engraved a third fairy on the movement itself. »

Many of the timepieces in the collection have an element of transformation.

Would you say that’s a major theme of the brand?

We love to play around with that theme, and there are many ways to interpret what makes a secret watch. For example, our Lady Arpels Ballerine Enchantée watch [launched 2022] was inspired by dancer Anna Pavlova. It features a white gold ballerina – set with sapphires and diamonds and finished with plique-à-jour enamel on the dial – which transforms into a butterfly when you ask to read the time. That’s a totally different take on a secret watch.

How do your automata add to this sense of storytelling?

Our first object – the Varuna boat – was released in 1906, at the very beginning of the company’s history. Over time, this objets d’art and table clocks have always been present in what we do, often as private commissions for clients. The automata we have released to the public – like the Floraison du Nénuphar, with the flower opening to reveal a butterfly taking flight – are obviously a much larger scale but are made with the same techniques that go into our jewellery watches: you have the diamond settings, the marquetry, guilloché.

While a gorgeous movement like this might be very key to the marketing for another watchmaker, we’ll never bring it up, because the story we’re telling is the most important thing. The mechanical movement is not what’s important to us – that’s what stays behind the scenes to make our story come to life. vancleefarpels.com

Secrets revealed: The Ludo Secret Emerald Mystery Set took 73 years to perfect 88

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Talking scents Is it time to get real about synthetic fragrances?

Words: Becki Murray

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hat comes to mind when you hear the word ‘synthetic’? Within beauty, it’s often placed in direct opposition with ‘natural’, suggesting something ‘less pure’ and ‘inferior’. Nowhere is that truer than in perfumery, where synthetics (meaning laboratory-created fragrance notes) are traditionally portrayed as more cost-effective alternatives to natural ingredients.

After all, “Jasmine Absolute can cost up to £5,000 per kilo, while synthetic alternatives such as cis-jasmone may cost only £500,” reveals the education manager for Shiseido’s designer fragrance brands, Callum Ross. “Similarly, a kilo of vanilla absolute costs thousands, while vanillin (the popular synthetic alternative) can cost less than £100.”

That’s good news for high-street brands offering affordable spritzes to the masses, but such framing has caused synthetic ingredients to lose much of their luxury allure. Yet, something is changing. In fact, with the latest pioneering techniques behind them, synthetics are on course to transform the future of luxury perfume.

Firstly, the very fact that synthetics are engineered in a lab and don’t require vast expanses of land or resources is perfectly aligned with conscious consumerism. Leading fashion and beauty tastemakers now increasingly promote the ideology that the most significant symbol of luxury is not limitless excess but making better choices for yourself and the planet.

In contrast, consider how natural ingredients within luxury fragrances are popularly portrayed: thousands upon thousands of rose petals harvested for just one pound of essential oil, or the use of rare flowers that only bloom once a year.

While exclusivity is still the darling of luxury fragrance marketing campaigns and continue to tantalise and encourage that integral first spritz of a new perfume, in order to keep pace with their increasingly informed customers, fragrance brands must also address the accelerating conflict between society’s developing environmental awareness and the traditional art of making perfume.

“Using massive amounts of land to get a natural [ingredient] can be dangerous: look at what happened to the over-harvesting of Indian sandalwood, [the ingredient was pushed to the brink of extinction],” says David Seth Moltz the founder and nose behind DS & Durga. “It is also easier to make vanillin from sustainable sources than by extracting vanilla from pods in Madagascar where theft is a real problem.”

Christina Kamester, head of fragrance for So…? Fragrance, agrees: “The raw materials required to make natural scents can put increasing pressures on resources, like the large volumes of water needed to grow plants. This impacts communities, especially where water is scarcer, and natural ingredients can also vary in quantity and quality each harvest. In contrast, synthetics are always consistent in scent profile… and continuing advances mean there are more solutions for perfumers to the challenges we face in the modern world.”

Luckily, there’s a growing number of natural ingredient suppliers committed to suitable and transparent agriculture, including Firmenich and LMR Naturals in Grasse. But what’s really helping perfumers and brands step up to the sustainability challenge – with all the luxurious touches we crave – is synthetics. »

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THE RAW MATERIALS REQUIRED TO MAKE NATURAL SCENTS CAN PUT INCREASING PRESSURES ON RESOURCES, LIKE THE LARGE VOLUMES OF WATER NEEDED TO GROW PLANTS...

[SYNTHETICS OFFER] MORE SOLUTIONS FOR PERFUMERS TO THE CHALLENGES WE FACE IN THE MODERN WORLD – Christina Kamester

The science of scent: Fragonard perfume factory in France (top); blending ingredients (below)

SCENTS OF HISTORY Significantly, synthetic notes have helped advance perfumery for generations. “Many people believe that synthetic perfume ingredients are a bad thing and don’t offer any true benefit,” says Callum. “This is a myth and without the discovery of synthetic materials, we wouldn’t have the industry that we have today.

The first perfume to use a synthetic was Fougere Royale by Houbigant in 1882… and it gave birth to the modern perfume industry.”

Key fragrance notes that make your favourite fragrances so moreish and enjoyable would be impossible – or unethical – today without synthetics. “The animalic facet in perfume is one loved by many people, adding a warm and seductive quality. However, traditional methods for extracting these materials were extremely cruel,” he explains. “Thanks to the advent of synthetic alternatives, it’s no longer necessary to obtain ingredients in this way.”

Civetone, a synthetic material, is a good example, as it means civet cats are no longer harmed for their signature musk.

Likewise, while ‘naturals’ are often seen as the ‘clean’ option, synthetics are increasingly relied upon to overcome the allergen profiles of natural ingredients, including essential oils and absolutes.

“Oakmoss absolute was a fundamental part of perfumery for centuries but, in 2009, it was discovered it caused allergic reactions, and the creation of synthetic alternatives, such as veramoss, helped keep many of our favourite scents alive,” Callum says.

At the same time, some natural aromas are incredibly difficult to source in the yields necessary for fragrances – such as Honeysuckle – while others, like Lily of the Valley, cannot be obtained naturally. Synthetics fill that void, and if you consider that it’s a luxury to smell exactly as you wish, then synthetics are your window to a wealth of fragrant opportunities.

Most exciting of all is the technology powering synthetic innovations, with luxury fragrance houses now able to replicate the scents of our favourite (and rare) plants and flowers, without the need to pick a single petal.

Broadly known as ‘headspace analysis’,

techniques like Living Flower Technology employ specialised equipment that can capture and analyse the aroma-filled air around a flower.

Then, once the aroma’s chemical composition is analysed, perfumers meticulously recreate a synthetic version.

This offers a groundbreaking approach for perfume sustainability, by helping conserve rare plants, while lessening the need for extensive cultivation. It also means synthetics are no longer mere shadowy replicators of their natural counterparts – their aroma profile is identical.

Examples of the technique include the encapsulation of a blooming lily’s aroma in Cloon Keen’s Aesthetic Lily Candle, while for Penhaligon’s punchy floral fragrance, Highgrove Bouquet, the perfumer Julie Pluchet looked to “the latest AromaSpace technology”, in combination with her expertise and creativity, to capture the unique scent of the weeping silver lime tree at Highgrove Gardens.

TRUE INNOVATION But synthetic fragrances aren’t just about recreating natural aromas. In fact, out of the four main synthetic note categories summarised by the esteemed perfumer Roja Dove, that approach only covers two: natural isolates, which involve isolating the characteristic aroma elements of a natural oil; and reconstructions, which replicate a natural odour in the lab.

The other two focus on bringing something unique to perfumery. ‘True’ synthetics are a category defined by entirely new notes, while aldehydes, derived by refracting petrol or benzene, are most famous for first providing their iconic sparkling elements in Chanel No.5.

Perfumers are pushing boundaries within these categories, as they chase ever-newer synthetic ingredients. “The quest for new aroma chemicals usually comes from the perfumers themselves,” says the co-founder of United Perfumes and Ostens Fragrances, Christopher Yu. “They ask their labs for different ingredients that can help convey certain feelings and I love that they are asking for ingredients that make us feel things not just smell good.”

Examples include Iso E Super, which elevates 92

woody accords with its sensual undertones, and cashmeran velvet, as in Ostens’ namesake fragrance, which is akin to wrapping yourself in an expensive cashmere scarf.

Cutting-edge technology has also aided the development of “hybrid molecules that are half natural and half scientifically modified,” highlights the brand and artistic director at Thameen, Christopher Chong. That’s allowed the creation of “some synthetic fragrances that are more natural smelling than nature.”

That means synthetics are only limited by our imagination. “You can make the real scent of anything - a flower, a book, or a potato,” David summarises. And, with evermore notes inspired by emotions or even abstract concepts, they are specifically designed to induce a unique reaction from each wearer too. So, in a world where even niche fragrances are now quickly recognised, new synthetics offer an opportunity to wear a truly unique aroma as your signature.

“Almost more than any other type of material, synthetics have sent fragrance creation spiralling off in new directions,” agrees Roja, an opinion shared by the founder of Jusbox, Andrea Valdo.

“The best innovation is that we finally have new smells, something unique we aren’t used to finding in our ‘normal life’,” says Andrea, “so fragrances become unexpected and different.”

It’s certainly working too: one of Jusbox’s bestselling fragrances worldwide, Cheeky Smile, was the result of a challenge to create a 100% synthetic fragrance.

Still on the olfactory fence? The good news is you don’t have to choose a side of the natural/ synthetic dichromate. Indeed, the best luxury perfumers know that a combination can produce the very best aromas.

“Imagine a beautiful sunset and you snap a picture of it. That would be a natural fragrance, but synthetics are like the perfect photo filter that will make your sunset pic pop even more,” concludes Christopher.

Consequently, it’s simply time to consider that your next truly luxurious fragrance is one where the scope for aromas is unlimited, powered by technology and innovation, rather than how many petals are required.

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O N TH E NO SE THE CLASSIC | ISSEY MIYAKE L’EAU D’ISSEY POUR FEMME One of the world’s first aquatic fragrances (right), the watery element in the fresh and clean scent was made possible by using the innovative synthetic material calone (also known as watermelon ketone). £88 for 100ml isseymiyakeparfums.com

THE 100% EXPERIMENT | JUSBOX CHEEKY SMILE For its music-inspired scents, Jusbox (left) often looks to its incredible array of sustainably sourced naturals. So, it’s testament to the excitement surrounding modern synthetics that this 100% synthetic ambery aroma is a sell-out success. £190 for 78ml jusboxperfumes.com

THE CAPTIVATING AROMATIC | THAMEEN BOHEMIAN INFUSION Thameen’s new citrus aromatic fragrance (right) has a captivating ambery base, emboldened by proprietary notes developed by Symrise – the cosmetic ingredient provider responsible for developing, the first synthetic molecule. £250 for 100ml thameenfragrance.com

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THE NEW BRAND SIGNATURE | LOEWE AIRE ANTHESIS The first appearance of a new olfactory note called Loewe Accord, crafted by in-house note, Nuria Cruelles. The aroma, which replicates scents of Spanish wildflowers, is paired with juicy floral notes including pear, peony, and rhubarb (left). £118 for 50ml perfumesloewe.com

THE TECHY FLORAL | PENHALIGON’S HIGHGROVE BOUQUET This collaboration (right) with King Charles III – when he was the Prince of Wales – uses AromaSpace technology to capture the scent of the weeping silver lime tree in Highgrove Garden, all without picking a single flower. £160 for 100ml penhaligons.com

THE FRAGRANT HUG | OSTENS IMPRESSION CASHMERAN VELVET Like a soft cashmere jumper on your skin, this scent (above) wraps you up with its warming accords of cashmeran velvet, sandalwood, and creamy vanilla bean extract CO2 LMR. £95 for 50ml

THE UPDATED ICON | ROJA DOVE ELYSIUM EAU INTENSE With its animalic synthetic notes providing a real sexiness on the skin, this reimagining of a brand classic (above) is a unisex delight for anyone who loves an aromatic aroma. £265 for 100ml

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POWER AND POSSIBILITY From child prodigy to tech trailblazer and passionate advocate for change, Tempus meets Stemettes founder Dr Anne-Marie Imafidon MBE

Words: Lysanne Currie

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r Anne-Marie Imafidon’s journey began with innate curiosity. While her young classmates were still playing with toys, she was rewiring her parents’ washing machine, dismantling their VCR, and “messing about” on her father’s computer – eager to find out not just how they worked but what problems she could solve.

Luckily, she had very supportive parents – dad Chris, an ophthalmologist, and mum, Ann, a linguist. By age 10, Anne-Marie was speaking six languages. Two GCSEs in maths and computing followed. By 11, she was the youngest girl in the UK to pass A-level computing.

Aged 15, she was offered a place to study Maths and Computer Science at the University of Oxford, which she began at 17. By 20, she’d become one of the university’s youngest-ever graduates with a Master’s degree in her field and – just as significantly – she was one of just three women in a graduating class of 70 students.

It was while working at Deutsche Bank that Anne-Marie became more acutely aware

of the gender disparities within the world of STEM (Science, Technology, Engineering and Mathematics). Her lightbulb moment occurred during a technical conference.

“There were 3,500 technical women in one space and I thought, my goodness, this is my people,” she says. “[But] I saw that women’s experiences, perspectives and problems weren’t reflected in technology, which is seriously dangerous.”

This realisation led to Anne-Marie cofounding Stemettes in 2013. The dynamic social enterprise is aimed at encouraging more girls, young women and non-binary people from five to 25 to enter the STEM field by challenging stereotypes, fostering diversity and ultimately bridging the gender gap.

It also makes good business sense: in 2020, a McKinsey report revealed that companies with a more balanced gender profile were 25% more likely to outperform their less diverse competition.

However, despite women making up half of the UK workforce, and an increasing number

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of young women opting for STEM A-levels, still only 14% of all those in STEM careers are female. Meanwhile, despite companies placing a greater emphasis on addressing the gender gap, women remain largely underrepresented in IT positions. A 2019 survey on STEM careers found that more than half of young women are interested in these fields, but 78% are discouraged by the gender inequality.

The Covid-19 pandemic only exacerbated the situation, with 60% of female STEM students believing their career prospects have been negatively affected. As Imafidon told The Times, “There has definitely been progress – but there’s a pushback from a few people in science. It’s not overt, but there’s a feeling that ‘What you’ve had is enough – we’ve helped enough’.”

It’s a disparity, she tells Tempus, that’s “driving our economies, healthcare, the way we work, play and live… for the sake of the world’s future – not just that of the tech industry – we must ensure we serve women’s unique needs and experiences.” »

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TAKING CTRL Today, Anne-Marie is considered one of the most powerful women in tech. She is a member of Research England, president of the British Science Association, and in 2017 was awarded an MBE for her work as a champion and inspiration for women looking to find a role in the world of STEM. She has a podcast – Women Tech Charge, in which she meets women from across the tech industry – and covered mathematician Rachel Riley’s maternity leave on TV quiz Countdown, a stint that raised some eyebrows: “There was a backlash because people had never seen a black woman do maths before,” she says. “They thought I was a diversity hire.”

Anne-Marie is also the author of three books.

The first two are academic books about maths; but her latest, She’s In Ctrl, was borne from a desire to show women how they can ‘take back tech.’ It is also a reminder how often our female pioneers are written out of our schools’ education – amazing women such the 1930s and 1940s Hollywood actor Hedy Lamarr, who developed groundbreaking technology initially used for radio-controlled underwater missiles, which today forms the basis of wifi and Bluetooth.

“We want people to talk about women innovators, women in STEM in those classrooms,” she says. “Those should be household names in the same way that everybody can recite Newton and talk about the bathtub.”

In her book and work with the Stemettes, Anne-Marie passionately advocates for changes in textbooks and curricula to making these female STEM innovators as instantly recognisable as male figures such as Einstein and Darwin. The difficulty, she says, is in part down to a decline in education initiatives.

“There needs to be substantial investment in education,” she says. “We need to get more people to want to be teachers and want to stay as teachers. I’d do everything possible to ensure teachers want to stay in the UK.” Other kinds of education are necessary too: as chair of the UD Music Foundation, an

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WE WANT PEOPLE TO TALK ABOUT WOMEN INNOVATORS, WOMEN IN STEM IN THE CLASSROOM Women in STEM: Anne-Marie Imafidon (left) is taking back tech with her book, She’s in Ctrl (inset)

initiative that gives young people opportunities across the music industry, Anne-Marie says she was “shocked at how much I end up teaching freelancers and creatives about their own finances and their own accounting”.

“I ended up calling it ‘the creative back office’,” she says. “I’ll probably ruffle a lot of feathers, but as every day passes I still can’t believe I’ve seen one accountant that specialises in creatives.”

At the start of 2023, Stemettes celebrated its 10th birthday. More than 60,000 young people have enjoyed and benefited from its programmes and workshops (including the Duke and Duchess of Sussex, who took part in a Stemettes workshop for 2018’s International Women’s Day).

It’s a remarkable success story but, says AnneMarie, there is still much work to be done – particularly in terms of lobbying for systemic changes in education. She is passionate about the need to focus on educating all children, from an early age, to understand that STEM careers are wide open to them.

“Stemettes shouldn’t have to exist,” she insists. “If the education system was doing what it needed to do, I wouldn’t need 24 people in my team running around the country trying to at tell girls that they’re not the first girl that’s ever been interested in physics.”

This is why, says Anne-Marie, that her greatest hope is that Stemettes, one day, becomes obsolete. aimafidon.com; stemettes.org

NEW ORDER In a world driven by shared responsibility, does the neocollectivism movement have the potential to reshape Words: Lysanne Currie

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ccording to trends forecaster The Future Laboratory, our society is facing a mass reorganisation, putting community back at the heart of society and decentralising traditional industry structures.

The Lab first revealed this latest paradigm shift in a Spring 2022 report. “Neo-collectivism isn’t just a better brand image for socialism in a Web3 age,” they announced. “It’s the future of business and organisational change as we know it.”

According to the Lab, the political, social and economic upheavals of recent years have resulted in an increased sense of community, collaboration and shared responsibility, manifesting in everything from climate activism to social justice movements and the sharing economy.

Naturally, the Covid-19 pandemic played a hand in this, expediting a sense of civic responsibility that was, the report suggests, already well on the rise. During 2020-2021, millions of people – from teachers, carers, postal workers, delivery drivers and retailers – helped provide vital services or pivoted to keep their communities going; while thousands of volunteers trained themselves up to help with vaccination drives.

Today, that same kind of altruism has the potential to both redefine social structures and transform the markets. At root, NeoCollectivism promotes inclusivity, diversity, and equity. It paves the way for greater social cohesion and solidarity – and it’s the under 35s who are leading the way.

CHANGING CAPITALISM Similarly, in 2021, a study commissioned by right-wing think-tank the Institute of Economic Affairs (IEA) revealed that of 2,000 people aged between 16-34 polled, 67% said they’d like to live in a more socialist economic system.

They associated capitalism with terms such as

business, brand engagement... and society itself?

‘exploitative’, ‘unfair’ and ‘corporations’; while associating ‘socialism’ – not to be confused with communism – with positive terms, such as ‘public’, ‘equal’ and ‘fair’.

Meanwhile, 75% agreed with the assertion that climate change is a specifically capitalist problem, 78% blamed capitalism for Britain’s housing crisis, and 72% supported the (re) nationalisation of various industries such as energy, water and the railways. Said the IEA’s head of political economy Dr Kristian Niemietz, “These results show that ‘millennial socialism’ is not just a social media hype… this is a long-term shift in attitudes, which is not going to go away on its own.”

Technology has been a key enabler in the propagation of neo-collectivism. Online activism has witnessed a substantial increase (the food-sharing app Olio, for example, has more than five million users, and more than 34 million portions of food shared), with social media campaigns catalysing social and political change. “[These] attitudinal and technological advances are paving the way for B-Corps of a different kind – the B in this case standing for boss-less,” wrote The Future Lab’s Martin Raymond, who imagined a scenario in which “all employees are stakeholders – regardless of seniority, rank, or specialism”, united in purpose, product, mission, and profit goals.

In this vision, everyone has an equal say, no matter their skills or job title, ensuring no one has too much power. Decisions are made together and written down on a blockchain for everyone to see and check.

As the Lab’s Holly Friend adds, it’s also a scenario that flies in the face of the broad categorisations “sketched by mid-level marketing associates”, who routinely lump individuals together by job title or using demographic labels (such as Baby Boomers,

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millennials and gen Z) when targeting consumers. This is a conversation that’s getting louder – generation categorising is becoming seen as pernicious and reductive, especially in an age where personal identity and idiosyncrasies are prized more than ever.

RESILIENT, DRIVEN AND MOTIVATED In the face of this, many brands are undergoing a transformation in the way they engage and communicate with their customers, especially younger generations, who comprise a significant portion of the global population.

As the IEA’s Dr Niemietz says, “Supporters of the market economy need to accept that challenge, and rise to it, rather than dismiss it, or pretend it is not happening.”

Junior planner Molly Taylor-Prevett, writing for creative brand agency Tracy Locke, concurs.

“Neo-collectivism is breaking through into marketing. Brands must learn this and how to harness their communities. It is no longer about being a seller; the direction is now focused on being a coordinator of people. The future hook for brands is to place collectivism at the heart of products and campaigns.”

According to Taylor-Prevett, with the decline of the traditional notion of individualism, businesses will be obliged to project an “image of sincerity that mirrors that of the consumer group… they’ll need to tap into the zeitgeist to create authentic integral ideas that ring true to the collective masses”. Meanwhile, she says, superficial self-promotion will eventually fade away, leading brands to transform into advocates and champions of societal movements.

As Olio’s CEO Tessa Clarke says about her own business: “We are extremely stubborn, resilient, driven and motivated. We are here and we are committed. Failure is not an option”. Given the global challenges facing us, this could well be the rallying call of the neo-collectivists.

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RE:VIEW The history of the world in a single meal

PLUS + •

New voices dominate the 2023 Booker Prize selection

•

The Only Watch tour builds to a landmark auction

•

Maria Abramović’s retrospective puts performance art in the frame

•

Save the date: your luxury events calendar

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CUISINE | DINNER IN ROME

A taste of history Food writer Andreas Viestad on the powerful link between history and food Words: Judy Cogan

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ndreas Viestad describes his curiosity for food as like a hunger that can’t be satisfied.

It’s no wonder he’s shaped a career as an acclaimed food columnist for the Washington Post and national newspapers in his native Norway, as well as a TV chef, home cook, food activist, restaurateur and author of cookbooks.

Driven by his fascination with the origins of food his new book Dinner in Rome: A History of the World in One Meal leans into his flavour of food writing as ‘culinary archaeology’ and takes readers on a fascinating historical exploration of the Eternal City from the table of a classic Roman restaurant. Viestad finds deeper meanings in every bite: from the bread, he traces the origins of wheat and its role in Rome’s rise and downfall; he dives into his “obsession” with spaghetti carbonara and how the lemons in his sorbet dessert featured in the history of the Mafia in the 19th century. A complex story about humanity unfurls.

Andreas, in Dinner in Rome you write: ‘There is more history in a bowl of pasta than the Colosseum.’ When did you embrace history as a driver in your food writing?

I made that claim originally as a provocation, but I strongly believe it to be true. A bowl of pasta can connect us with the past [and] tell a bigger story about what we are as humans today. I call this ‘culinary archaeology,’ which annoys my wife [an archaeologist].

With Roman food culture there are elements that are almost continuous since Roman times, and so many new innovations as well. You can go to the little bakery next to the restaurant where my book is set, and they make bread that looks exactly the same as traditional Roman breads found in excavations in Pompeii.

What made you write an entire book centred around one meal?

I wanted to tell a story that weaved us back in time by having the frame of that story as concentrated as possible — in one meal. On the outer level, there is very little happening. The meal is very good, but it’s not spectacular. I didn’t want to build it around the greatest chef in the world or around multiple meals or experiences. I wanted to show that culinary archaeology is something you can do anywhere with just a thin slice of bread or a bowl of pasta. In Italy,

and specifically Rome, the food culture is so rich.

Gathering around a table with friends and family on a Saturday, in Italian culture, is seen as an integral part of life and that is a fantastic starting point. One meal can tell so many different stories.

What’s your favourite Italian dish?

I’ve got this obsession with pasta carbonara and there is this legend that it is an eternal Roman dish.

But there’s a big collection of Roman recipes from the 1930s, where pasta carbonara is not mentioned; it pops up in the late 1940s. One hypothesis is that American soldiers brought their rations to Rome after the liberation in 1944 – so maybe the original was actually made with cream and not guanciale and pecorino, you know?

Can you tell us about your work as a food activist?

The Norwegian, American and British culture are more or less in the same sort of family. We’ve become incredibly interested in food in the last couple of decades, but it’s that foodie thing. The foundation of a food culture is what we do every day and what we teach our kids, and that is something that is truly lacking. I set up a nonprofit called Geitmyra Culinary Center for Children and we run educational programmes in four Norwegian cities where kids learn how to cook. We've got an organic garden and teach them where the food comes from and how to embrace food culture. What we see is that many kids come from a background with very little culinary literacy at home.

What’s next for you?

I want to write about the diversity of what we, as an omnivorous species, have been eating and what we’re in danger of losing. Because originally, if you go back like 15,000 years, humans were in every part of the planet. And the reason we could spread like that was that we are omnivorous. We ate thousands of different things. And now we get 90% of our calories from just 10 plants and five animals. That’s really scary. I want to investigate some of the diversity that still exists in the world.

Dinner in Rome: A History of the World in One Meal by Andreas Viestad (Reaktion Books) is available now

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READER OFFER Get 20% off your purchase of Dinner in Rome Visit reaktionbooks.co.uk and apply code DINNER23 at checkout

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CULTURE | THE BOOKER PRIZE

Fresh voices lead the pack in this year’s Booker Prize

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ith a longlist that consisted of 13 books, 10 firsttime nominees, four debut novels and seven countries vying for literary glory, this year’s Booker Prize shortlist could only have been a showcase of fresh literary voices when it announced in September.

The leading literary award in the English-speaking world, The Booker Prize is awarded to the best work of fiction published in the UK and Ireland.

This year's shortlisted titles are Sarah Bernstein’s Study for Obedience, Jonathan Escoffery's If I Survive You, Paul Harding's This Other Eden, Paul Lynch's Prophet Song, Chetna Maroo's Western Lane and Paul Murray's The Bee Sting.

Each of the authors celebrates their first time being shortlisted; Jonathan and Chetna are both nominated for their debut novels, while Sarah celebrates her sophomore novel. The accomplished writers represent England, Ireland, Canada and America, with novels that the judges say address many of 2023's most pressing concerns – including climate change, persecution, and financial hardship – while being full of 'hope, humour and humanity'.

“The best novels invoke a sense of timelessness even while saying something about how we live now,” says Esi Edugyan (pictured), chair of judges. “Together these works showcase the breadth of what world literature can do, while gesturing at the unease of our moment. From Bernstein and Harding’s outsiders attempting to establish lives in societies that reject them, to the often-funny struggles of Escoffery and Murray’s adolescents as they carve out identities for themselves beyond their parents’ mistakes, to Maroo and Lynch’s elegant evocations of family grief – each speaks distinctly about our shared journeys while refusing to be defined as any one thing.”

The winner of the 2023 Booker Prize will be announced on 26 November. thebookerprizes.com

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RE:VIEW

AUCTION | ONLY WATCH

Celebrating 10 years of Only Watch

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he Only Watch collection of unique timepieces is celebrating 10 years with a world tour before a starstudded auction at Christies in Geneva on 5 November.

Beginning in Los Angeles on 6 September, the collection of 32 watches – by 73 of the world’s most exciting brands, including Jacob & Co (Astro Only Watch, pictured) – will tour the US and Europe before the auction, which raises money for research into Duchenne muscular dystrophy and other genetic diseases. The event’s patron, Prince Albert II of Monaco, will host an event at the Prince’s Palace of Monaco in Monte-Carlo during Monaco Yacht Show in September.

“This landmark edition is also a moment for us to look back on what has been achieved to date and take collective pride in the progress Only Watch has brought to research into Duchenne muscular dystrophy and genetic diseases,” says founder Luc Pettavino. “We created our charity 22 years ago and held the first edition of Only Watch 18 years ago. Since, we have raised CHF 100 million for research. Today, we have reached clinical trials on a proprietary molecule that could change the lives of many.”

5 November. PALEXPO, Geneva. onlywatch.com

EXHIBITION | ROYAL ACADEMY OF ARTS

Marina Abramović puts performance art in the frame

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conic artist Marina Abramavić has continuously pushed the boundaries of performance art throughout her 50 year career. The Royal Academy’s celebratory retrospective is a triumphant look at key moments of her career, featuring sculpture, video, installation and performance. Not only that, but rising performance artists – trained in the master’s method – will pay tribute through re-performances of her most striking works throughout the exhibition, including Imponderabilia, Nude with Skeleton, Luminosity and The House with the Ocean View.

The exhibition not only strikingly restages her best works, but provides audiences with the chance to take in the impact of a career that has seen Marina subject herself to pain, exhaustion and risk of genuine harm – in her early work Rhythm O, she invited audiences to interact with however they chose, famously leading to a loaded gun being held to her head. The exhibition is a superlative framing of a remarkable artist.

23 September 2023-1 January 2024. Royal Academy of Arts, Burlington House, London. royalacademy.org.uk

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the

SAVE DATE Your luxury events calendar for this season

5 - 14 Oct

5 Oct - 19 Nov

GENEVA INTERNATIONAL MOTOR SHOW, QATAR The inaugural GIMS Qatar takes place in Doha, combining a glittering showcase of luxury, sport, exotic and classic cars. Prepare for extended test-drives, desert activities and high-speed circuits. genevamotorshow.com

CRICKET WORLD CUP England opens against New Zealand in a cricket world championship battle that is set to tour India’s most spectacular venues. The world’s largest cricket venue, the Narendra Modi Stadium, will host a showstopping final. cricketworldcup.com

25 - 29 Oct

FORT LAUDERDALE INTERNATIONAL BOAT SHOW The world’s largest in-water boat returns to the Florida coast this October. 1,300 boats, 1,000 exhibitors and more than 100,000 attendees will experience the fiveday extravaganza. flibs.com

7 - 12 Nov

24 - 26 Nov

25 Nov

DUBAI DESIGN WEEK ‘Downtown Design’ is the watchword for the emirate’s ninth annual culture and design festival, bringing together internationally renowned designers, rising talent, pop-up concepts and immersive experiences to delight the eye. dubaidesignweek.ae

F1 ABU DHABI GRAND PRIX The Yas Marina in Abu Dhabi will once again host one of the most luxurious Grand Prix events in the F1 championship calendar, where this year Red Bull Racing’s Max Verstappen is expected to dominate the 55 laps of the UAE circuit. f1.com

LE BAL PARIS Inspired by the English debutantes’ ball, Le Bal is a showcase of haute couture, media premieres and charitable causes – this year’s beneficiaries are the Necker-Enfants Malades children’s hospital and World Central Kitchen. lebal.paris

While every effort has been made to ensure accuracy, changes to event calendars may occur. Please check with individual event organisers for more information.

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BEST FOOT FORWARD Tempus columnist Rikesh Chauhan is stepping up our autumn shoe style

W

e spend so much of our time on our feet, so investing in proper footwear should be an absolute must. Yet for many years, in my early twenties, I paid little attention to footwear, content to pick up any random boots from high-street brands and wear them until they fell apart around a year later.

One incredibly wet and windy morning on the way to work, the sole of the latest of these boots physically snapped. I’d had enough. Having spent a good few hundred quid over the years on shoes that were ill-made, I knew I couldn’t continue on this path – literally and metaphorically. Around that time, I had joined bespoke shirtmaker Turnbull & Asser, whose Jermyn Street flagship happened to be next door to shoemakers Crockett & Jones. I came to realise that their staff often wore Turnbull attire, and the Turnbull staff primarily wore Crockett & Jones footwear.

I decided to follow suit, and the rest was history.

As we head into autumn and prepare for the winter months, there are a few shoemakers I’d recommend.

Chelsea 11 by Crockett & Jones A well-made pair of classic boots are an investment that will truly last – and these black Scotch grain Chelsea boots by London shoemakers Crocket & Jones are arguably the best purchase I’ve ever made. crockettandjones.com

As you’d probably guess, Crockett & Jones is high on my list. This is a heritage brand that makes shoes to last: since my first purchase in 2018, I’m yet to need another pair of boots. Not only are they incredibly hardwearing (Vibram rubber sole, storm welted and water resistant) but the Japanese-inspired design makes them a significantly versatile choice. I’ve worn these with a suit as well as with jeans and a T-shirt. What’s more, should you find your pair in need of some TLC, you can pop into any store and they’ll restore them. I’m confident I will get another ten years of wear out of my boots without needing any fixing. Coincidentally, my most-worn pair of shoes are their dark brown pebble grain Hardwick split toe derbies.

When you’re talking about quality shoes that are made in England and are as beautiful to look at as they are comfortable to wear, the name George Cleverley should be top of the list. The fact that their bespoke shoes are heralded by everyone from Fred Astaire and Sylvester Stallone to King Charles III should tell you everything you need to know. Their

Merlin in Antique Bordeaux Calf by George Cleverley From a tried-and-tested British shoemaker with royal appeal – they hold a royal warrant from King Charles – these oxfords in antique Bordeaux calf leather are wholecut from another cloth. georgecleverley.com

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ready-to-wear offerings are equally immaculate in quality; a stand-out for me is their antique bordeaux Calf Merlin Oxford. A whole-cut (meaning that the upper is made from one single piece of leather) these shoes are beautiful and elegant – note the signature ‘suspiciously’ square toe – and will certainly make heads turn. And yes; you can absolutely wear them with a navy suit.

Heading to the countryside? Look no further than Tricker’s, whose extensive range of country boots will have you spoilt for choice. In fact, the most difficult part of writing this piece was deciding which pair to feature; I have settled for showcasing the caramel Kudu Stow Country Boots. These are proper boots, the like of which you’d find nestled in the corner of a country home’s stables; absolutely battered, encrusted with dirt, having been worn for 30-odd years and, yet, you know they’d still do the job. Durable and tough, made to tackle all manners of terrain while looking quintessentially at home, no matter where you may find yourself.

Stow Country Boot in Caramel Kudu by Tricker’s Made for the nitty-gritty of the countryside, Tricker’s stylish Stow Boots are just as at home in the City.

We love these Kudu Leather boots in classy caramel. trickers.com

GREAT BRITISH LUXURY CLOTHING | WWW.PRIVATEWHITEVC.COM

Erling Haaland Pro footballer, member of the all-star squad