Warsaw Insider July 2020 #287

The Capital’s Original City Magazine Since 1996

JULY 2020

Walk This Way A Neighborhood Guide To Powiśle

287

#

07/2020

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AQUAZZURA ALEXANDRE BIRMAN BALMAIN BURBERRY BUSCEMI CASADEI CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN CULT GAIA FRANCESCO RUSSO GIANVITO ROSSI HERVE LEGER ISABEL MARANT KENZO LOVE SHACK FANCY MAISON MICHEL MANOLO BLAHNIK NANUSHKA ONETEASPOON SELF-PORTRAIT SOPHIA WEBSTER THE MARC JACOBS TOD’S TORY BURCH ZIMMERMANN

tel.: 228277099, www.Moliera2.com

editorial FEATURES

10 Gateways To Powiśle The ins and outs 12 Essential Powiśle The bits and pieces you simply can’t miss 16 Elektrownia Powiśle

A giant reborn!

17 Mariensztat

Socialist Realist throwback 18 Powiśle Cafes 20 Powiśle Restaurants 22 Powiśle Stores 24 Powiśle By Night

EAT!

29 First Bite

Drożdż

30 Foodie News

Michelin stars retained!

31 Producer Spotlight

Mariusz Jaroszek 32 Ice Cream

Warsaw’s top scoops 34 Review

Restauracja Forty 36 Review

Nocny Market

DRINK! 47 First Sips

JULY 2020

Editor-in-chief Alex Webber

insider@warsawinsider.pl Art Director Kevin Demaria kdemaria@valkea.com Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com Contributors: Michał Miszkurka Ed Wight Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com

A

fter all the talk preparing us for ‘the new normal’, it appears, in many instances, that ‘the new normal’ is actually exactly like the old. Pandemic? You certainly wouldn’t guess if, like us, you visited the riverfront sometime in June. Famed for its party scene, not even fears of a second lockdown have dampened the mood of the bars by the water. Overlooking (but not forgiving) the blithe stupidity of those ignoring even the most basic of guidelines, it is at least encouraging to see the city returning to some semblance of life. And nowhere has this been more pronounced than the area of Powiśle – for this reason, we bring you our most detailed Powiśle guide to date (riverfront included!). Put simply, if it’s happening this summer then it’s happening there. Beyond, of course, things are a little less defined. Mounting closures, empty offices and a city utterly devoid of international tourists have made it a unique time to live and experience the capital. Warsaw, however, battles on and continues to prove itself to be every inch as resolute and stubborn as we’ve come to expect. Enjoy it – but wash your hands after.

No Problem

ey Account Manager K Adam Fogler afogler@valkea.com Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com

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48 After Work Drinks

Six Of The Best!

DISCOVER 57 Television

The Woods 60 Culture

Museums 70 Map 72 Looking Back Trasa W-Z

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Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

on the cover Celebrating our most comprehensive exploration of Powiśle to date, follow the Insider and discover the charms and secrets of this upcoming suburb. See p. 9.

(Illustration by Michał Miszkurka)

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2020

VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies. All information ©2020 Warsaw Insider.

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

BURBERRY CANADA GOOSE CASADEI CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN MEN FAY GIANVITO ROSSI KENZO ONETEASPOON RALPH LAUREN TOD`S TORY BURCH BURBERRY CHILDREN DSQUARED2 KIDS KENZO KIDS MONCLER KIDS

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THE INSIDER’S FOOD & DRINK HEROES! #lovewarsawfood&drinks

As the food and drink sector rebounds from the toughest months it has ever faced, the Insider invites you to join us in backing some of our favorite spots in town! We’ve organized the discounts, now all you need to do is turn up and use them!

Remember, the restaurant scene needs you!

Buy a Burrito and Get One Free! with one coupon MariCruz ul. Zgoda 3 / tel. 730 285 544 (Śródmieście) maricruz.pl

(Offer valid with this coupon till the end of July. Deal valid for eat-in or takeaway) 4

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2020

Steamed, Frisco-style burritos composed with slow-cooked ingredients and a range of homemade salsas - packed to the max with deliciously sloppy ingredients, it's the authentic taste of San Francisco!

10% discount

with the discount code: Warsaw Insider Kur & Wino ul. Andersa 21 tel. 570 580 180 fb.com/kurwino

(offer valid per transaction until the end of July)

A fiercely on-trend neighborhood restaurant, specialties of Kur & Wino include rotisserie chicken from Podlasie, guinea fowl from Wielkopolska as well as standalone vegan dishes and wines of the world.

ul. Rydygiera 8/lok. 20 B (Zoliborz) tel. 722 221 172 kuchniazoliborz.com

(Offer valid with this coupon till the end of July)

Stylish and elegant, Kuchnia Żoliborz are proud to present a menu that sees international favorites reinterpreted with a bright, ambitious eye.

#lovewarsawfood&drinks

A glass of prosecco with any ordered meal Kuchnia Żoliborz

A free drink with any ordered meal Koko & Roy ul. Wilcza 43 tel. 22 699 8564 (Śródmieście) kokoandroywarsaw.com

(Offer valid with this coupon till the end of July)

Capturing the essence of modern New York, Koko & Roy’s contemporary American menu reflects the dynamic and often eclectic tastes of Manhattan and Brooklyn.

warsawinsider.pl

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A free humus to any ordered meal Maghreb ul. Burakowska 9 (Żoliborz) tel. 888 785 848 maghreb.pl

#lovewarsawfood&drinks

(Offer valid with this coupon till the end of July)

Journey deep into the soul of Morocco at Maghreb, a lively restaurant showcasing intriguing Arab tastes and exotic fragrant flavors.

10% discount

with the discount code: Warsaw Insider Mokotowska 69 ul. Mokotowska 69 tel. 664 023 225 mokotowska69.com

(offer valid per transaction until the end of July)

Award-winning seafood and steaks as well as several classis Polish dishes served with a creative spin – no-one leave Mokotowska 69 disappointed!

10% discount

with the discount code: warsawinsider

(only valid for online orders at gringobar.pl/zamow)

Gringo Bar ul. Odolańska 15 / tel. 22 848 95 23 (Mokotów) ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki) / tel. 786 266 336 (Środmiescie) ul. Dobra 53 / tel. 790 266 336 (Powiśle) gringobar.pl

(offer valid per transaction until the end of July) 6

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2020

Created by hip hop star Bilon, find fresh ingredients utilized to produce Tex Mex burritos, quesadillas and nachos that always hit the spot!

10% discount

with the discount code: Insider's Secret Mr. Oh Al. 3 Maja & Leona Kruczkowskiego (enter from under Poniatowski Bridge) tel. 571 264 262 mr-oh.com

(offer valid per transaction until the end of July)

Asian street food with a funky, modern twist as well as swoon-worthy cocktails that reflect the dynamic energy of this celebrated newcomer.

Bibenda ul. Nowogrodzka 10 tel. 502 770 303 bibenda.pl

(offer valid for one coupon per meal until the end of July)

Consistently cited as one of Poland’s leading casual restaurants, Bibenda’s inventive international menu is built with love around the most seasonal of ingredients.

#lovewarsawfood&drinks

One glass of wine or beer with one coupon

Join The Revolution!

Running a restaurant, bar or café? Then sign-up to the Insider’s discount scheme and get the customers through the door!

Available online and in print, our voucher initiative seeks to get business buzzing after those long months of lockdown.

To join, contact Adam Fogler at afogler@valkea.com

warsawinsider.pl

7

Neighborhood Guide

POWIĹšLE

Squashed between the city center on one side and the river on the other, for years Powiśle had something of a reputation as an area to be skipped – not because of any deadly dangers it presented, but rather its lack of any reason to linger. But if once this was a sleepy dormitory of faceless flats and failing factories today it has become the embodiment of modern Warsaw. Raw around the edges yet beating with creativity and dynamically developing by the minute, today it has come to reflect the very essence of the city.

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9 Gateways To Powiśle

It’s not just the district that’s a thrill, but getting into it as well…

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If you’re coming from Old Town, take the escalator from Pl. Zamkowy before emerging at the mouth of Mariensztat. Opened in 1949, ‘the moving stairs’ were such an attraction when they were unveiled that notices (that survive to this day) were hung warning children and those with heart defect against repeated use. Also preserved

Finished in 1933 after a decade of stop-start building work, the shadowy viaduct that runs across Solec street marks the border between Powiśle and the Solec district. As stinky as it is gloomy, there’s something engagingly atmospheric about this entrance, not least at night when steam rises from the manholes and halos of light form around the street lights. As trains rattle and rumble overhead, it’s a scene reminiscent of Jack the Ripper films in London’s East End.

Trasa W-Z

from behind plexiglass find Socialist Realist reliefs depicting the make-believe brotherly nature of Soviet-Polish friendship.

1

Tamka Street

Regarded as Powiśle’s principal artery, the 18th century Ostrogski Palace is the last building you pass before stepping into Powiśle. Now housing the ultra-modern Chopin Museum, this looming hulk of a building has seen

Solec Street

it all over the years: rebuilt after the war, its previous functions have included that of a police HQ, a Napoleonic hospital and a homeless shelter.

Veteran expats, meanwhile, will remember its basement as the home of Morgan’s, a dungeon-like space well-suited to the riotous shenanigans that often took place (ah, the memories!).

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PKP Powiśle

Completed in 1962 to a design by Arseniusz Romanowicz and Piotr Szymaniak, Powiśle train station is a marvel of the post-modernist style. The architects were, apparently, inspired by Soviet forays into space, which explains the cosmic-looking angles. Swiss architecture critic Werner Huber called it “a pearl on rails”, a point not lost on the city’s conservator who inducted the stop into Warsaw’s list of protected buildings in 2018.

10

Neighborhood Guide

6

Świętokrzyski Bridge

Suspended via 48 ropes from a pair of 90-meter pylons, Świętokrzyski became the capital’s first suspension bridge when it was completed in 2000.

Reputedly ‘the most filmed bridge in Poland’, the slender silhouette of this 479-meter project has become iconic of modern Warsaw, and as such it’s not uncommon to find it starring in commercials, pop videos and, above all else, cheesy romantic comedies.

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Copernicus Metro

Or, to give it its full title, Metro Centrum Nauki Kopernik. Inaugurated in 2015, features include what is reputedly Poland’s longest escalator (40.4 meters) and decorative graphics by the near legendary Polish artists Wojciech Fangor.

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Karowa Street

Beginning with the historic neo renaissance Bristol Hotel (past guests: Picasso, John & Jackie Kennedy, Tina Turner, you get the drift), Karowa street is a gem. Check the latest exhibitions at Dom Spotkań Historią (which in July means a photographic look at the capital’s post-war reconstruction) before then passing Karowa 18A, a post-modernist building whose balconies look like a giant game of Tetris.

Bednarska Street

If you’re seeking the scenic route, then Bednarska wins hands down. Largely rebuilt after the war as part of the Mariensztat housing estate, this steep, cobbled street is adorned with street lamps that hang from the pastel colored tenements that line this narrow route.

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The Hammerhead

You’ve two choices if coming from Jerozolimskie: head down via Powiśle station, or cut down the zig-zagging path that leads into Park Beyera. The latter option takes you under the shadow of Smolna 8, a hammer-headed building designed in ’64 but only completed in 1976. Originally slated to serve as a hotel the 19-storey edifice included a groovy top-floor café called Akropol and was generally revered as being ground-breaking at the time.

Powiśle

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Essential Powiśle!

Aimless wondering is the best way to discover Powiśle, but it helps to have a guiding hand…

Instagram…

A Mural

Hunt…

A Mermaid

Go… For A Spin

Learn…

Your Legends

Like the rest of Warsaw’s upcoming areas Powiśle is sprinkled with murals, the most famous of which is Captain America on Zajęcza 8. Painted in 2012

by Krzysztof Borkowski – a graduate from the nearby Fine Arts Academy – it purports to ask weighty questions relating to consumerism and mass culture. More commercial, but no less striking, check the ever-changing wall on Tamka 37 for awesome Netflix related murals as painted by the radical ad company Good Looking Studio.

Of Warsaw’s three major mermaid statues, two are in Powiśle (the other being in the Old Town’s Rynek).

Looking somewhat like a Manga character, the first of these is found on the Stanisława Markiewicz Viaduct, while the other stands at the beginning of the Świętokrzyski Bridge.

Cast in bronze, the latter was the last monument to be unveiled before the Nazi occupation and was modeled on a 23-year old poetess named Krystyna Krahelska. Krahelska was fatally wounded on the first day of the ’44 Warsaw Uprising and while the statue fared better, 34 bullet dents can still be counted.

About as straight as a pile of spaghetti, ul. Karowa breaks out into a helter skelter thrill of hairpin bends and bumpy cobbles: it’s just brilliant by car. At its climax, the Stanislawa Markiewicz Viaduct is the iconic mouth of Powiśle with its ornate architecture making it a favorite landmark among serious photographers. Opened in 1904 (though the date under one of its statues declares 1905), the crowning glory of this intricate thoroughfare is a statue of Warsaw’s official mascot: a sword wielding mermaid.

Paying homage to one of Warsaw’s enduring legends, the (waterless) fountain that stands by Tamka 37 honors a princess that was turned into a… duck! Waaay too long and convoluted to relate to readers in this short space, Google around to get the full story of the Golden Duck. Spoiler: it involves bag of gold ducats, a young cobbler and a feelgood ending!

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Neighborhood Guide

Absolutely quackers!

Tamka's duck monument looking golden

Walk…

The Wisła

Head…

For The Heights

Channel…

Your Inner Boffin

Follow…

Some Students

Once seen as an overgrown mess, the reinvention of the Wisła boulevards has been one of modern Warsaw’s biggest triumphs. Though more widely celebrated for its nightlife, it’s during daytime that the full scope of its greatness becomes apparent: mined with sculptures, fountains, hammocks and arty bits and pieces, its become the city’s summer playground no matter what the hour.

A number of places offer bird’s eye views, among these the dizzying top floor from the crane tower at Elektrownia Powiśle and the labyrinthine outdoor pathways set on the roof of the Copernicus Center. But for the best, look no further than the BUW Garden on Dobra 56/66. “Distinguished by its colors, scents and moods,” the one hectare garden that sits on top of the University Library is breathtaking. Featuring sloping, metal walkways and leafy alcoves, hang around till scarlet sunsets settle over the Wisła right ahead.

Survive an earthquake, fly on a magic carpet, stand on the moon or learn to tell if your partner is lying (best avoid that one, possibly) – approaching its tenth anniversary, the Copernicus Science Center (Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20) keeps to its promise of making science fun by presenting a staggering amount of interactive displays and exhibitions.

Okay, so that sounds vaguely creepy, but the educational facilities that are sprinkled about Powiśle are simply a feast for the eyes if your architecturally inclined. The Academy of Fine Arts (Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 37/39) is a cracking example and a beautiful marriage of neoclassicist and contemporary aesthetics.

Powiśle

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Keep…

Your Eyes Peeled

Soak Up… Some Culture

Go… Typespotting

Respect…

Your History

It’s the under-the-radar peculiarities that keep Powiśle interesting, whether they be random bits of sticker art, back passage murals of pizza eating space men (Solec 50 should you ask), gnomes stenciled onto the pavements or the random posters and paintings that appear on the walls.

Known by some as the Museum of Modern Art, the Museum On The Vistula (Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 22) has become embedded in the city’s cultural psyche since opening in 2017.

Appearing from the outside as a white cube splashed with the artwork Sławomir Pawszak, exhibitions are as challenging as they are often witty, provocative and utterly baffling.

Warsaw’s mania for retro-style neon (which best manifests itself at Elektrownia Powiśle where EVERY unit has been signposted with glimmering signs) has blessed the area with beautiful signage often complimented by stunning lettering. Our fave sign of all though isn’t neon at all: at Teatr Ateneum (Jaracza 2) behold the juxtaposition of wondrous, classic typography and ghastly clashing colors!

“It happened here” plaques abound, but it’s the posh-looking Krzyża 6 that’s perhaps the most beguiling. Revealed in 2016, the tablet on the wall commemorates the joint efforts of Jan Karski (credited with revealing the extent of the Holocaust to the Western Allies) and Jerzy Choróbski, who together used this house during the war to broadcast illegal news bulletins.

It’s the under-the-radar peculiarities that keep Powiśle interesting...

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Neighborhood Guide

See… The Contrasts

Discover…

A Discovery Park

Blast…

To The Past

Take…

A Seat

The clash between old and young is never far from the mind while walking Powiśle, though from an architectural view nothing illustrates this better than the Grey Villa at Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 47 – built in 1905 but ravaged during the war, its modernization in the 90s saw the addition of glass ceilings and a transparent tower.

That’s the name awarded to the park outside the Copernicus Science Center, a green little refuge whose distractions include strange decorative sheep and outdoor exhibits such as The Whisperer – a series of metal tubes that encourage experimentation with sound.

Traces of communism are by no means as prevalent as they are in other parts, but there’s still some bungling glories that we can all admire: who can’t but shudder at the sight of the Logos Hotel (Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 31/33)?

Relive the times when teachers ruled the classroom with a cane at Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 35. Made from bronze to honor the work of the Polish Teachers’ Union, the old-fashioned school bench that sits outside the entrance is – apparently – the only such sculpture in the country. A replica of a bench from 1905, it’s various features number an abacus, notebook and a hole for an inkwell.

Whisper sweet nothings at The Whisperer

Powiśle

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Turn It On

After years in the making, Elektrownia Powiśle finally touches down for business… reinstalled as the plant’s manager by the Germans and he juggled these duties while also covertly working for Poland’s resistance movement. Having successfully hidden numerous weapons around the complex, when the Warsaw Uprising broke out on August 1st, 1944, Skibniewski’s unit was able to seize control of Elektrownia with only five casualties. A key strategic target, it continued operating despite dogged German attempts to attack it, and while it sustained numerous heavy hits, it continued to power the city until the very last few days of battle.

By April of 1945 it was back up-and-running, and if anything, grew in relevance – when the Palace of Culture was completed in 1955, a super-sized power unit was installed in Elektrownia to specifically serve Poland’s tallest building.

It remains to this day, alongside around 5,000 other original elements that have been preserved – for instance, cranes, ladders, service boards and pulley systems. That it spent nearly two decades rotting and abandoned one would simply never guess.

Elektrownia Powiśle ul. Dobra 42, elektrowniapowisle.com

PHOTOGRAPH NAC, OPPOSTE PAGE BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Though missing the big champagne-style opening usually reserved for such projects – natural, given the prevailing circumstances – the unveiling of Elektrownia Powiśle has nonetheless transformed the local landscape.

Epitomizing the new live-work-play urban model, the long-awaited launch of this stunning mixed use space has given the district a spectacular calling card. But beyond the impressive retail offer, sceney bars and swanky offices, it is the retention of its historic character that stands out the most to make it so visually enticing.

Designed by William H. Lindley (yep, the same geezer behind the city’s waterworks), and completed in 1904, the coal-fired power plant superseded all that had come before, and at a stroke replaced all the pokey enterprises that had, till that point, supplied the city’s electricity. It’s importance was such that, in the inter-war years, the city was moved to take control to ensure its smooth operation. To meet this end, the reigns were handed to an upstanding, former military officer named Stanisław Skibniewski – when Poland was invaded by the Germans in 1939, he was one of the first to defend Warsaw.

Astonishingly, he passed a background check and was

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Neighborhood Guide

Discovering Mariensztat

Over-looked and under-visited, Mariensztat, just south of the Old Town, should be remembered as one of Powiśle’s best kept secrets…

Originally established by an 18th century noble-

man who named it after his wife, Maria, it didn’t take long for the Mariensztat district to veer from its intended genteel look. By the outbreak of WWII the area had become an unnavigable confusion of tangled streets and tumbledown tenements: pimps, prostitutes and punch-ups were its calling card. However, its near total destruction during the war gave town planners the chance to reboot from scratch, and this they did with gusto, creating a prototype settlement based on a Socialist Realist template yet simultaneously inspired by small town architecture of the 17th and 18th century.

Warsaw’s first post-war housing project opened amid much fanfare in 1948, with architect Zygmunt Stepiński’s design incorporating playgrounds, schools and other community-minded infrastructure. Seen as a major propaganda coup, its breakneck completion was largely due to truly Herculean construction work – it’s said some buildings took three days to finish.

With that in mind, it was unsurprising that this slice of Workers’ Paradise was exploited frequently in films such as Poland’s first color movie: a romantic comedy titled Adventure in Mariensztat.

Naturally, the area’s primary pull was a square, and though it feels largely windswept today, during the 50s it regularly played host to fetes, dances and community events. Since that heyday, the area’s pink pastel colors have faded, but many of the original details remain as they were: among them, quirky murals and mosaics (check the chirpy cat on ul. Sowia), a fountain fringed by three stone children, and a statue of a hen-clasping woman – a reference to the area’s famed pre-war food market, it was only after the monument was unveiled that a local guidebook noted that the animal was positioned the wrong way round. “Stall holders would have always shown potential buyers the hen from the back end,” wrote Lech Chmielewski in his post-war booklet Przewodnik Warszawski.

Powiśle

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SIP

To judge a district’s personality it’s to its cafés you must head…

Asfalt

Tamka 37 The combination of vinyl and coffee ain’t nothing new, but at Asfalt you feel that the very heart of the concept has been completely remastered.

Take stock of your purchases over alt. coffees served inside mugs crafted by the nearby Fenek ceramic studio.

Corners

Leszczyńska 4, fb.com/cornerscerealsgamers It’s as if fun lovin’ Corners was created with big kids in mind – pick from a mammoth array of zany world cereals and assorted sugar highs before settling back and getting lost in a world of video games.

Crepe Cafe

Dobra 19, crepecafe.pl Pancakes arrive in over 20 variations, including some you’d never dare to dream of: a pancake burger? Once the initial surprise subsides you realize these are more than shock factor stunts – the quality is spot on.

Inside a pretty pink interior adorned with gold trim and big, bold succulents, this bijou space could have been designed with Instagram in mind – and as perfect as it is to look at, it’s even more perfect to nibble on. Caramel brownies, blueberry meringue, pistachio cheesecake, mango & passionfruit tart – the list goes on and makes more than fine reading.

Palermo

Browarna 4, fb.com/lodziarniapalermo Declaring its presence with an unmissable neon set over a shaded terrace awning, Palermo have been pleasing punters for donkey’s years with their convincing Italian-style gelato. The chocolate-cherry always earns a smile.

Rakieta

Solec 111, fb.com/rakietacafe This golden nugget will charm the pants off you if, like us, you like your cafés to be small, friendly and offbeat in design. Greeted by a load of waving

Japanese cats in the window display, guests sip through hip-minded beverages (craft beer, kombucha, coconut water, weird coffees) while cool tunes play in the background.

SAM

ul. Lipowa 7, sam.info.pl Part of Powiśle since 2012, there’s many who would nominate SAM as their favorite Warsaw bakery. But with its cool crowd, buzzy bistro vibe and organic eats it’s also so much more than that – it’s a scene you want to be part of.

Stor

ul. Tamka 33, fb.com/storcafe Heaven for freelancers and people watchers, visitors bask in natural light amid outbreaks of greenery and quirky design touches: over some of the best specialty coffee in the city, time runs away here and before you know it hours have passed. Though it feels like a neighborhood warrior, it comes as no surprise that Stor’s patrons hail from all over Warsaw.

Fabryka Lodów Tradycyjnych

Tamka 31 With an interior design that can be diplomatically described as non-existent, attention instead falls on the ice cream – wow. Of the recent hit sorbets, we’ve loved the Prosecco; cherry; pineapple; and rhubarb. Faultless really.

Kafka Café

Oboźna 3, kawiarnia-kafka.pl An oldie but a goldie, Kafka have long been seen as an integral part of local life. Characterized by its glorious bookshelf, books are priced by weight (zł. 10 per kilo), and are subsequently best enjoyed with a cold brew on one of the deckchairs planted in the park outside.

Muus

Tamka 22/24, fb.com/muuswarsaw

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Neighborhood Guide

STOR

Ask The Local

Maciej Marks, co-owner of Kafka, talks about the changing face of Powiśle…

WI: You started here in 2007 – looking at the area, it’s changed quite a bit!

MM: When we began Powiśle underwent a metamorphosis, going from being the ‘worst’ part on this side of the river to being the artsy bit. The proximity of both the University and its library helped that, and you had places like Diuna, Tarabuk, Czuły Barbarzyńcy and Jadłodajnia Filozoficzną opening.

That artsy image was strengthened further when real estate developers started using this creative atmosphere as a selling point.

Which has led to gentrification…

We’ve seen a lot of expensive flats go up and an influx of gated communities, but we’ve also seen a burst of gastronomic and cultural venues both big and small.

How has Kafka changed?

From the beginning we wanted a strong literary angle, though reality obviously forced us over time to look more carefully at things like food.

What’s the magic of Powiśle?

That’s impossible to define in just a few words!

A S FA LT

Powiśle

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EAT Ave Pizza

Topiel 12, avepizza.pl Modern in its look, this restaurant is the real deal when it comes to Neopolitan-style pizza. Made using imported ingredients and dough fermented for 72-hours, their devoted fan base say you won’t find anything better throughout the rest of Poland!

Bez Gwiazdek

Wiślana 8, bezgwiazdek.com.pl Focusing each month on a different region of the country, Robert Trzópek’s tasting menu takes diners to the very heart of the Polish soul and does so via tastes that betray his fine dining background: delicate and precise, it’s the polar opposite of the standard Polski feast. Just when you thought you had worked out the nation’s cuisine, along comes Robert Trzópek to rewrite the rules.

Cytryny na Powiślu

Topiel 15, fb.com/cytrynynapowislu Powiśle loves pizza and you can see why when you look at the choices. That the public have taken Cytryny to their heart owes itself to their commitment to authenticity.

Founded by hip hop star Bilon, the Gringo Bar is exactly what you want from a street-side burrito point: glowing with positive vibes, chat with the fist-bumping staff while they fix up killer burritos that skip artificial ingredients. For extra snap, order the habanero salsa.

LAS

Solec 44, fb.com/las.warszawa This rail-side communist pavilion has been transformed courtesy of a thorough makeover featuring a jungle of plants, low, muted lighting and the addition of smart charcoal colors and revamped retro fittings. Food-wise, expect natural Polish flavors galore: the potato pancakes with goulash are a winner.

Marzenie na Dobrej

Dobra 15, fb.com/MarzenienaDobrej You feel the love vested in this enterprise the moment you enter.

Thick with the aroma of freshly baked goods, the natural, homely quality of the cakes is almost too good to be true.

Elektrownia Powiśle

Dobra 42, elektrowniapowisle.com Such is the choice you could eat here for a year and still never get bored.

The food hall is a beauty with highlights involving cheesesteaks from Philly’s Finest and hot wings from Kura Złota, but there’s no shortage of legitimate sit-down restaurants either.

Created by Poland’s biggest media celebrity, Kuba Wojewódzki, Niewinni Czarodzieje 2.0 offers an edgy menu (bao burgers, kimchi hot dogs, ceviche, batata fries) complimented by funky cocktails and a post-industrial interior.

Gringo Bar

LAS

Dobra 53, gringobar.pl

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VA B E N E

Neighborhood Guide

MARZENIA NA DOBREJ

BEZ GWIAZDEK

Okienko

Dobra 53 Because who can resist a cone of Belgian fries served from a window hatch? We can’t, and it’s not just the fries that do it – the sauces (e.g. red curry, BBQ vegan, lemon mayo, etc.) are the clincher.

PA S T R A M I B I S T R O

Paloma Nad Wisłą

Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 47 Attached to the modern art museum, people flood here to enjoy an atmospheric wooden-decked terrace, an exciting choice of spritzers and food that captures the zeitgeist: artisanal cheeseboards; stuffed rotis; fish tacos; vegan ice cream and so much more.

Parowóz Powiśle

Solec 109, fb.com/parowozpowisle Answering Warsaw’s call for Asian street food, Parowóz feels exactly as it should: steamy, congested and full of big, tasty smells. Expertly cooked, the Chinese-style dumplings are epic pouches of greatness.

Pastrami Bistro

Solec 50 This place was practically designed for the new millennial: craft beers, hanging succulents, neon signage and a communal table. Using pastrami as their hero ingredient (you’d never have guessed, right?), find it inside sandwiches, burgers, bowls of shakshuka and even on pizza. Love it!

Va Bene

Tamka 9, fb.com/vabenepoland Founded by Ula and Emanuele, this snug corner eatery has shot up Warsaw’s pizza rankings since opening last year. The informal, neighborly atmosphere is bettered only by the generous slices of pizza served from behind the counter.

Veg Deli

Radna 14, vegdeli.pl An entrance beset with candles, plant pots and seasonal veg charms people in, and they tend to stay on to dine on creative vegetarian options that absolutely always hit the spot. Set on leafy Radna street, the summer terrace is a joy.

Zielony Niedźwiedź

Smolna 4, zielony.rest A sanctuary of elegant fancy, it’s a place of long, dark shadows and discreet decorative touches: From the outset, you’re made to feel that good things will happen, and this they do.

Powiśle

Once a gastronomic desert, the Powiśle district now competes with the center when it comes to not just diversity but quality as well…

Certified by Poland’s fledgling slow food movement, the menu gives star billing to the suppliers that keep the pantry full; but the truth is these aren’t the only heroes. Chef Wojciech Deres will open your eyes to the real tastes of Poland.

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BUY

Hip, happening and occasionally eccentric, the Powiśle vibe is amply reflected by the nature of its stores…

Bold, original jewelry harnessing often experimental forms and materials such as screws, tubes and satin cords.

You’ll look unique.

Elektrownia Powiśle

ul. Dobra 42, elektrowniapowisle.com Amid the post-industrial interiors of a former power plant discover a non-standard retail offer that makes a mockery of existing shopping centers.

Though international brands are present, for instance Urban Outfitters, Cos and Hugo Boss, the spotlight is directed onto Polish brands, fashion designers and concept stores.

Femi Pleasure

ul. Browarna 6 Aimed at the young, active woman of today, Femi Pleasure’s dynamic range of clothing is both urban and outdoorsy. ‘Unique design, quality and comfort’ are the sacred three pillars upon which their philosophy is built.

MARRO

Asfalt

Le Pukka

ul. Tamka 37, asfaltshop.pl More than a cool café, visit Asfalt to flip through stacks of vinyl that lean towards reggae, dub, hip hop, funk, soul and a little bit of jazz. Actually, there’s a whole lot more: visit, and who knows, you might exit with the soundtrack to The Good, The Bad And The Ugly under your arm.

BawiMisie

ul. Leszczyńska 6, bawimisie.pl Toys are a specialty with many having that handmade, traditional feel to them. These aside, find also a

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variety of children’s accessories and bedroom decorations.

Book Off

Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 22, bookoff.pl Architecture, design, art history and graphic design are all topics that are well represented, but there’s no shortage of other books as well: where else will you find AA Milne and Irvine Welsh sharing shelf space with Where’s Wookie?

Detox Design

ul. Dobra 13, detoxdesign.pl

ul. Solec 58/60, lepukka.pl For interior inspirations look no further than Le Pukka: highly original furniture and decorative pieces for the home come from the likes of Urban Nature Culture, Nobonobo, HK Living and White Label Living.

Marro

Leszczyńska 4 / Browarna 4 / Lipowa 7A, marro.com.pl Not just one, but three showrooms in Powiśle! Creating solutions for offices, shopping centers and public spaces, it’s to Marro you should head to explore the world of upmarket flooring, lighting, acoustics and landscape architecture. Your home office will never look the same!

Neighborhood Guide

Mood Scent Bar

ul. Tamka 33, moodscentbar.com A perfumery whose manifesto involves matching the right scent to the appropriate person: doing so means a proper natter with their expert staff. Catering to both men and women, bestselling brands include Helmut Lang, Ella K and Comme des Garcons. Luxury candles, balms and soaps also sold.

MOMA Studio

ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 4, momastudio.pl All those swanky nearby apartments aren’t going to furnish themselves.

Dealing exclusively with high-quality, upmarket brands, this furniture outlet

will leave your living space looking magnificent.

Polish Poster Gallery

ul. Dobra 56/66, poster.pl Original, vintage and contemporary posters designed by leading artists from the acclaimed Polish School of Posters. Run by Darek and Włodek, both are delighted to share their knowledge and passion with passing punters. Find them in the main atrium of the library building.

T-Shirt Shop

ul. Solec 109, t-shirtshop.pl Three guesses what’ll you’ll find here.

Majoring in Made in Poland tees and

BOOK OFF

sweats, the apparel feels hip and modern-minded with no shortage of quirky, amusing designs.

Thoht

ul. Solec 56, thoht.pl “Life is too short to wear boring jewelry,” announces Thoht’s website.

More than hollow words, their dedication to this mantra becomes apparent the second you enter their small atelier no Solec. Not short on masculine motifs (skulls, daggers!) this men’s jewelry store doesn’t compromise on quality.

Uashmama

ul. Leszczyńska 12, uashmama.com.pl Originally founded in Italy, Uashmama combine ‘modern technology with Tuscan tradition’ to produce durable, water resistant bags, accessories and household items from... paper.

Vintage Store

ul. Dobra 56/66, en.vintagestore.eu Hermes scarves, Barbour jackets and mad, pimp-style outfits like leopardprint coats with big, furry trims. The clincher is the collection of vintage Adidas.

WND Toys

ul. Tamka 37, zabawki.wnd.pl The façade leaves no doubt: it’s all about Lego at WND. In particular, minifigures are a specialty with those offered including none other than Waylon Smithers and Ned Flanders!

B AW I M I S I E

ELEKTROWNIA POWIŚLE

Powiśle

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NIGHT LIFE

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Neighborhood Guide

If once Powiśle was best known for its scattering of

Bohemian dive bars that smacked of 90s Berlin, today it has evolved once more to cast off this more maverick aspect of its history and embrace a new approach to appeal to an audience far beyond student dropouts and wannabe’ DJs – and if evidence of such was needed, then it would be the riverfront that would be wheeled out in testament.

You’ll hear it before you reach it. Beginning from a distance as an amorphous din, it’s a noise that thereafter splinters into every possible identifiable direction: Ibiza-style dance tracks compete with buskers banging bongos and the general racket of thousands getting drunk. Yep, thousands.

Fears that the pandemic would kill off Warsaw’s summer nightlife have proved unfounded; or at least, they have where the Wisła is concerned. While the bars in the center have struggled to keep their heads above the water, the riverfront has continued to act as the city’s unofficial summer HQ drawing vast crowds to its revamped boulevards.

Once a slimy, muddy mess lined with rickety sheds selling plastics pints of watery lager to grunting goons, the revival of the Warsaw’s left bank has been cited as one of City Hall’s greatest triumphs in recent years. When, in 2016, The Guardian namechecked it as one of Europe’s hottest riverside scenes, it was seen as official confirmation of the project’s emphatic success.

Powiśle

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KANDELA

Originally overseen by the former mayor Hanna Gronkiewicz Waltz, the step-by-step redevelopment of the Wisła was by no means plain sailing. Delivered considerably behind schedule, numerous problems were encountered along the way, not least the flooding of Metro Centrum Nauki Kopernik whilst it was under construction. The hurdles and challenges, however, have all been worthwhile: reconnecting the Wisła to the rest of the city in both a physical and psychological way, the undertaking has been a triumph of governance and design, and though throbbing with activity during daytime, it is once the sun sets that the area truly moves up a gear.

With the ban on outdoor drinking rescinded last year, it is come dusk that the terraced steps of the riverfront boulevards are press-ganged into service by zillions of youngsters enthusiastically swigging from cans and passing around bottles; as they do, the music from dozens of competing sound systems merge into one to form a solid mass of thumping beats. Social distancing? Good luck enforcing that.

Alarming as that is, safer alternatives await on the boats that are moored to the embankments; across gangplanks visitors bounce their way to vessels such as Barka Wynurzenie, a craft beer barge specializing in brews from Raduga, or Przystań Nowa Fala, a slick-looking craft that outclasses all of the competition – life tastes good sitting

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on the deck with a cold glass of something and just the stars glinting above.

Powiśle, though, has become about more than just the river. Moving inland, this becomes apparent at the Elektrownia. Moving past the people coiled out on the deckchairs outside, the food hall indoors opens out into a sea of neon signs and a sleek, manicured crowd posing for selfies over cocktails. And yes, drinks are every bit as important here as the food. Having first filed past security that are there to enforce pandemic hygiene rules, guests then choose between a craft beer vending station or the two principle bars that bookend the complex: Centrala Bar at one end or the more cocktail-driven, slinky Kandela at the other.

Yet while this has become Warsaw’s top check-in of the summer, more nocturnal candidates await beyond Elektrownia’s borders, with perhaps the Insider’s biggest nod going to Kufle i Kapsle at Solec 64. A throwback to the time when Powiśle was indy and upcoming and on the frontline of hip, KiK do it in a way that feels shabby, gritty but yet totally cool. Riffing on themes of industrial and retro to maximum effect, as nice as it looks the reason for its custom is a little more liquid: on tap, find a fluctuating choice of 12 crazy beers sourced from the kind of breweries that make Poland seem progressive. On the craft front, no-one does it better than this legend in the making.

Neighborhood Guide

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

KUFLE & KAPSLE

ELEKTROWNIA POWIŚLE

Powiśle

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Delivering Warsaw's Best To You To make an order call tel.+48 22 651 9003 or order online at: www.roomservice.pl

First Bite

A SLICE OF THE ACTION

The seeming simplicity of the design belies its striking beauty: like strange, alien planets, spherical lights dangle from the tall ceilings casting the concrete colored interiors in a pinkish-amber glow that feels tastefully restrained. As a place it vibes well, and even more so given its location on Andersa, a street that’s starting to feel more than just upcoming in terms of its food and drink. And speaking of food, that you’ll likely enjoy. Several steps beyond what you’d expect from a neighborhood pizzeria, find gorgeous leopard-spotted pizzas that are by far the best in this segment of Warsaw.

Actually, they’re not that far off being our favorite in town. Relying on D.O.P certified tomatoes and other such artisanal ingredients, the impression is of a restaurant that truly cares about sending guests home happy.

PHOTOGRAPH BY TOMASZ CZUBAN

Drożdż ul. Andersa 22

warsawinsider.pl

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EAT!

FOODIE NEWS CLOSED FOR BUSINESS

STAR POWER

The city’s beleaguered fine dining sector has finally found some cause to celebrate with news that Warsaw has successfully retained its two Michelin stars. Despite being closed for business since March, both Atelier Amaro and Senses were deemed to have done enough to keep hold of their coveted stars, whilst down south Kraków’s Bottiglieria 1881 found itself admitted to Michelin’s elite club, thereby earning city’s first ever star. Bib gourmands, meanwhile, were issued to Alewino, Brasserie Warszawska, Butchery & Wine, Kieliszki na Hożej and Szóstka in Warsaw, as well as Fiorentina and Zazie in Kraków.

Having been knocked for six by the coronavirus, Warsaw’s restaurant scene has continued to look jittery following the lockdown with several restaurants choosing to give up altogether. Of the more high-profile casualties, those that will be lamented include perennial Insider favorite Fest Port Czerniakowski, Talerzyki and the Ed Red steakhouse.

From the higher end, Dom Polski have shut following twenty-two years in the business, whilst the Ukrainian fine dining restaurant Kanapa have also folded following a high-profile opening at the end of 2017.

DOOR-TO-DOOR

Ed Red might have ceased operations in Hala Mirowska, but their sister restaurant in Kraków continues to plug away.

More than that, they’ve come up with a range of canned artisanal meats that they’ll deliver across Poland: to order tinned butcher’s steak, beef bourguignon, stroganoff and suchlike, check out their offer at sklep.edred.pl. Closer to home, the Insider’s reigning Chef of the Year, Aleksander Baron, has likewise launched a cracking service delivering a range of products running from curry kimchi and Antonius caviar to upmarket cheeses and gingerbread sausages. For more, see: baronthefamily.pl.

RETURN OF RAFFLES

PRESS MATIRAL

Having already resumed their day-today operations the Europejski Grill in the Raffles Hotel have announced their return to ‘business as usual’ with the launch of their seasonal terrace as well as their ‘Taste of Summer’ menu. Involving such classics as chłodnik, buffalo tomato carpaccio, Scottish salmon and Atlantic lobster tail salad, the fine dining restaurant has also pioneered the use of contactless menus in the wake of the ongoing global epidemic.

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Warsaw Insider | JULY 2020

Producer Spotlight

Since debuting at the Fortecca farmers’ market earlier in the year, the father & son team at Jaroszek i synowie have wooed the Warsaw public with their artisanal meats. Mariusz Jaroszek, the younger half of the operation, talks to the Insider about his work as a producer…

WI: Jaroszek i synowie – what’s the back story?

Mariusz Jaroszek: All my family from my father’s side were farmers to the bone. With limited access to the shops, they started producing their own meats with knowledge handed down the generations.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

So your secrets go yonks back?

Yes! The oldest written recipe I’ve got dates to 1920, but the stories I remember that my great grandfather used to tell were the real cherry on top!

How’s working with your dad!

It’s both a great achievement and a challenge. It’s an achievement because it’s granted me access to a huge amount of knowledge but a challenge because, well… he’s my dad!

Despite your family’s farming history, you yourself were a latecomer to the game?

Right. I was working in the restaurant industry in the UK. In 2016 I earned a sommelier’s diploma while the restaurant I was managing was awarded the title of Britain’s Best Hotel Restaurant. After that I decided to return to Poland, manage the family farm and turn it into a business. It was the bull’s eye.

My only regret is that I didn’t do this earlier.

Best part of the job?

Return customers! You know you’ve done something right when they come back to you with a smile on their faces.

That said, in all honesty, there’s nothing I don’t enjoy about my work.

My only regret is that I didn’t do this earlier

What makes your meat special?

The quality, the production process and the natural ingredients we use. We’re living in times when huge manufacturers are taking over the market, so it’s good to offer a counter-balance: something made with passion and commitment. I wanted to be the first in my family to share the goods from our smokehouses with an audience that went beyond just our circle of friends.

Prince Charles pops into Fortecca! What’s the one item you’d insist that he takes?

Nothing tastes better than our duck breast carpaccio when it’s marinated in fresh truffle, garlic and herbs. And it’s even better with a glass of fine Chateauneuf du Pape 1985 whilst next to a fireplace! warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! roundup

GOT IT LICKED

PHOTOGRAPHS FACEBOOK

Warsaw's hyper-competitive ice cream sector comes into its element each sweaty summer - for the best of the bunch, we bring you the Insider's faves...

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Warsaw Insider | JULY 2020

Budka z Lodami

ul. Francuska 30 On sunny weekends you’ll find Saska’s longest queues building up outside this simple, street-side cabin. With social distancing now ‘a thing’, those queues are likely to get even bigger! Everyone (including the Insider’s dog) agrees they’re worth the time, not least for their lashings of frozen yogurt drizzled with freshly chopped fruits. And when it comes to ice cream, watch out for choices such as guava or melon.

Frank Warszawa

ul. Zwycięzców 11 Frozen with liquid nitrogen, just watching the process is enough to make customers feel like they’re watching some NASA sponsored experiment. Smoother than midnight velvet, the result sees super creamy classic tastes jazzed up with sprinkles of Lion bar, Gummi Bears and other such wickedness.

Pallone

ul. Polna 18/20 Mixing, so they say, French philosophy with New York creativity and Polish heart, a visit to Frank is like happening upon a little, local secret. The pastries are a standout, but you know what, so too is the ice cream. Pastry or ice cream?

Spoil yourself: have both.

ul. Brzeska 29/31 Made to Italian recipes reputed to be 160-years old (with some personal magic thrown in to boot), Pallone pride themselves on quality ingredients: chocolate from Belgian and Colombia, citrus fruits from Sicily, and the finest cream and milk you’ll find in Poland. There’s nothing too wacky about the flavor choice but the tastes will punch you out. Wow!!!

Ice Pot

Roszki

Hala Gwardii & ul. Soczi 6B Ice Pot finished last year (really, we were still visiting them in the middle of December!) as the Insider’s favorite scoop – this year, they’ve only gotten better. Produced by a true enthusiast, the seasonal flavors and occasionally wacky experiments (mulled wine, apple pie, etc.) never score less than a perfect ten. And if the tastes are a different level, then the service is as well.

ul. Andersa 37 Although it looks rather budget-minded, Roszki have won hearts for an offer that’s especially strong on chocolatebased ice creams. The chocolate habanero comes with a fiery twist and a fan club that extends beyond Muranów’s geographic borders.

Stara Lodziarnia

ul. Narbutta 38 What is it with Mokotów and ice cream? Amid a hugely competitive field, the wide flavor choice, quality ingredients and loving hand of Jednorożec mark them a notch above their immediate competitors.

ul. Francuska 48 This hidden little treasure has emerged as our early contender as our favorite ice cream of 2020! Interesting variations such as coconut & blackberry are well received, but it’s the basics that are truly exceptional: no-one does strawberry better! Made outside of Warsaw by the owner’s parents, the scoops here speak of a true labor of love.

Limoni Canteri 1952

Tłusty Kotek

Jednorożec

Various locations Founded by Giacomo Canteri – who was inspired by the discovery of his grandmother’s gelato recipes in the attic – Limoni have grown to become perhaps the most high profile of Warsaw’s gelato vendors. Highly seasonal tastes are complimented by the appearance of oddities that, in the past, have included, carrot, beer and tomato. Further, they sell special dog-friendly ice cream!

Lody Prawdziwe

ul. Hoża 51 Set within an old dairy plant, you’re pretty much guaranteed to find The Fat Cat appearing on every rundown of local ice cream faves. Functioning doubly as a cool café dealing in specialty coffee, the scoops never disappoint with choices including dollops of ice cream sandwiched between cookies.

If rumors are correct, they’ll be opening a new venture some time soon in the vicinity of Krasiński Gardens.

Vegestacja

ul. Świętokrzyska 30 Hailed a few years ago by Gazeta Wyborcza as Warsaw’s top ice cream, Prawdziwe’s attitude to perfection cannot be faulted. Natural, artisanal ice creams and sorbet are produced using only high-quality, proven ingredients. In terms of excellence, they’ve nailed it.

ul. Poznańska 26 Known as the vegan square mile on account of its proliferation of vegan restaurants and cafes, it’s no surprise to find a vegan gelato stop (‘vegelato’) opening in the area. Top marks to sugar-free creations such as the mango lass or raspberry & cardamom.

Na Końcu Tęczy

Ulica Baśniowa

Al. Wyzwolenia 15 Named in honor of the rainbow that once stood in the center of Pl. Zbawiciela, this vibrant spot occasionally likes to push the envelope when it comes to flavors, but it’s the fruity flavors that seem to work the best: the kiwi mascarpone is another level, as is the apple sorbet.

Nitro Lody

Al. Wojska Polskiego 41 The choice isn’t just vast, it’s sugar-free thanks to their commitment to using natural stevia instead. Few leave with anything but rave reviews, and their cause is furthered by an equally impressive choice of cakes and tarts. It’s a Żoliborz legend – and rightfully so. warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Review

N

ot often, but it happens, that along comes a restaurant that fills your world with dazzling new colors – and God knows, don’t we need a bit of that following the lockdown in Spring. Of course, that Forty would be good was kind of expected. Fired out from the same canon as Ale Wino and Kukułka, the latest project from this celebrated team was well on its way to conquering Warsaw when along came that virus whose name we shan’t speak – and dammit, just as we were preparing for our inaugural visit. The best things, though, are well worth the wait…

A SENSE OF PLACE

If you’ve not visited Fort Mokotów before, shame on you.

Like entering a secret world, a potholed lane flanked by scraggly bushes opens up to reveal a Tsarist era complex whose battered brick fortifications have since been turned over to house ad agencies, art studios and assorted creative think tanks. There’s restaurants, as well, in fact it’s a thriving little hub of hangouts and suchlike. And among them there’s Forty.

LOOKING OUT

It’s not so much a garden that Forty have, but a whole bloody park. But while it’s the size that impresses it’s the quality that makes the impact – so perfect that it registers as unreal, on quieter days, say a weekday afternoon, the silence is broken only by the rustling leaves. Exquisite in its greenery and immaculate on the eye, it’s impossible to believe that all this awaits just minutes from the center.

TABLE FOR...

FORTY?

Quite literally everything has gone wrong this year, so it’s safe to assume that the weather will as well. That being the case, shift indoors when the inevitable summer tornado strikes to find yourself enjoying a gorgeous interior designed

by Studio Rygalik. Effortlessly soothing, what could have

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Fort meets thought at Restauracja Forty…

LOOKING IN

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Warsaw Insider | JULY 2020

Restauracja Forty ul. Racławicka 99, restauracjaforty.pl

ended up as just another post-industrial cavern instead comes across as something original and fresh. Sure, you’ve got the peeling plaster ceilings and great big iron girders, but these work in tandem with personalized signature features such as an elaborate glass installation hovering over the chef’s table and tables crafted from demolished old barns.

Despite the enormity of the place (and yes, it is BIG), there’s a harmony at work that’s unusual for Warsaw.

THE IMPORTANT STUFF

Food! On first look, you wonder what the hell the chef, Daniel Uliczny, has done with the menu – of the mains, there are just two. This though is not a plunge into madness, but a clever trick to divert guests towards exploring the portfolio of starters. Moderately priced on our visit between zł. 12 and zł. 34, these are a beautiful adventure that marry seasonal produce with unexpected forays down uncharted paths: oyster mushrooms, for example, served inside pillowy bao with rice mayonnaise; a sorrel soup so vivid and refreshing as to defy expectations; and a strip of barbecued trout glistening with a teriyaki sauce and accompanied by an artsy pinch of greens.

Neither is this a chef too clever for his own good. When it comes to asparagus, the product is left to sing for itself – cooked perfectly, it’s sensitively elevated with the addition of a chimichurri sauce and a discreet dab of labneh: simple and effective. The same sentiment applies to dessert: lime sorbet on a bed of granola – easy peasy on the face of it, but executed to such a high level as to elicit squeaks of pleasure.

DRINK ME

The typical Warsaw restaurant feeds you, then can’t wait to chuck you out: “we’ve got your money, now see ya’ next time, sucker.” Forty is one of the very few where customers are likely – and encouraged – to hang around for more. And you certainly will want to. The wine, as expected for a place with familial ties to Ale Wino, is a key component of their offer, and here you’ll find around 150 and thirty by the glass. But really, forget them: instead, saddle up to the circular bar and get personal with a cocktail list that stands chin-to-chin with the best in town. At zł. 39 a pop they’re also among the most expensive, but created to this standard you’re unlikely to give a hoot. Our faves: Brother Scoby (homemade kombucha, bergamot and lemongrass and ginger gin) and the Hazelnut Fashion (bourbon, cedar nuts, Capuchin balm): whichever you choose, it’s quite a finish to an extraordinary experience.

FINAL WORD

Schooled under the brilliant Sebastian Wełpa at Ale Wino, head chef Daniel Uliczny has already proven himself as one of the finest upcoming talents in the country and for that reason alone you really must visit. Yet for all of that, Forty is about more than just the food. And it’s about more than the drinks and the beautiful design. That the waiters appear so emotively connected to the project in itself says much. And it’s through these unsung foot soldiers one senses the mood, vibe and passion on which Forty thrives.

A sanctuary from the complete s**t we’ve all been through over the last few months, it’s a place to escape and feel good about the world.

warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Review

NOCNY MARKET: PART V

Against the odds, the Nocny Market returns for one last hurrah…

“

... months after Warsaw bade a tearful final farewell to this nocturnal institution, along came the news that, well, they hadn’t died yet

F

or the best surprise of what’s been a bit of a rotten summer, see the reopening of Nocny Market: months after Warsaw bade a tearful final farewell to this nocturnal institution, along came the news that, well, they hadn’t died yet.

For newbies, then the story is thus: debuting in 2016, Nocny Market brought together dozens of street food vendors to form a patchwork of uber cool traders and hip little stands. But more than just an ultra-edgy collection of ethnic cook spots, the Nocny Market became the place to get tattooed in front of baying strangers, stock up on artisan donuts, swag some Indigo-

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Warsaw Insider | JULY 2020

colored Palace of Culture socks, get the whiskers waxed or simply boogie on down to side-burned DJs rescued from the Lost Years of Hipster. To many, it represented the essence of Warsaw.

But doom lay around the corner.

Set on the disheveled, disused platforms of Warszawa Główna station, word that PKP were finally going ahead with returning this lost piece of real estate to its original function spelled the end for this seasonal sensation. Warsaw wept.

Not so fast! Having been granted a miraculous last minute stay of execution in 2019, the same situation has played out again this year with PKP granting the Nocny Market another bonus season.

Reopening for the first time at the tail end of June, tenants will include Mr. Oh, Nordic-themed Makrell, El Puertito, the fabulous Brasil On The Plate, Melted (purveyors of Swiss-style raclette and other grilled, cheesy goodness) and the cult Pyzy Flaki Gorące. Unique, special and intrinsically crazy, it’s a place of good vibes, big beats and beery, blurry nights. Get there pronto to join the spirit of now.

Nocny Market ul. Towarowa 3 (Warszawa Główna) fb.com/ nocnymarket; Fri & Sat 5 p.m. till 1 a.m.; Sun 4 p.m. till 11 p.m.

GURU REDEFINES

MODERN INDIAN CUISINE

Our focus from the start has been to create modern Indian dishes and drinks, served in a relaxed space. We combine local seasonal ingredients with the authentic flavors, aromas and spices of India and the orient.

Widok 8, Warszawa www.gururestauracja.pl facebook.com/gururestauracja TEL. 22 857 0604

EAT! Listings

By in large, you can expect to pay between zł. 20-35 for starters, and zł. 35-70 for mains. Expect those prices to double in the case of the city’s fine dining venues.

Those wishing to cut costs should seek out the weekday business lunch deals now offered by most restaurants. When tipping, 10-20% is considered polite though be aware of automatic service charges in some venues. american 38 chinese 38 fine dining 38 french 40 georgian 40 greek 40 indian 40 international 40 italian 42 japanese 42 latin & spanish 43 mexican 43 middle eastern 44 polish 44 seafood 45 steak houses 45 thai 46 vegan 46 vietnamese 46

american Champions Sports Bar The heavy décor brings to mind the trans-Atlantic sports bars of the 90s, with glinting trophies, whirring machines, clacking pool tables and a cacophony of commentaries. Hell, there’s even a boxing ring. But you can’t criticize their consistency: the food is always on-point while the generous floor plan makes it

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suitable for unwieldy groups of large and loud lads. (D5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), champions.pl Koko & Roy Spotlighting ‘New American Cuisine’, the thrust here is on comfort food, albeit several steps beyond what you’d rustle up at home: the Odds & Ends (deep fried pigs tails and chicken hearts tumbled into a big bowl and served with pickled red onions and a lash of sriracha aioli) are bold, unexpected and utterly delicious.

Fun, innovative and pleasingly casual, it’s a bit like visiting friends who really know how to cook. Take it all in inside a brill interior that’s all Sputnik lights, intriguing artwork and mustard-toned finishes. (D5) ul. Wilcza 43, kokoandroywarsaw.com

chinese

Pańska 85 Ample in size, the interiors speak of money well spent. This is especially true because despite the luxury trimmings Pańska looks good without ever losing its dignity. With their kitchen staff headhunted from across China, the food sets a standard that has yet to be seen in any Chinese restaurant in Warsaw: there’s delicate salmon rolls wrapped in mango; dim sum that are pouches of pure goodness; and Sichuan-style pork that’s a blaze of sizzle and spice. The Beijing Duck, carved and served table-side, is the highlight. (B4) ul. Pańska 85, panska85.com Regina Bar Taking their inspiration from New York’s Little Italy and Chinatown, the menu at Regina is the very definition of ethnic comfort food: won-ton dumplings, ribs in sticky hoisin sauce and the best-selling General Tso chicken – famed for its healing properties, it’s one of the best hangover remedies around. On the Italian front, leopard-spotted pizzas land are presented with wheel-bladed knives in a kooky, retro interior featuring a dangling chandelier and the tallest mirror in Poland (possibly). (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, fb.com/Reginabar

fine dining Belvedere Łazienki Królewskie Set in an imperial age glass orangery, it’s festooned with intricate latticework and botanical exotica. The updated interiors are the work of acclaimed set designer Boris Kudlicka, and lend a fresh, contemporary tone that goes hand in hand with the menu. But behind the gels and emulsions and pretty little swirls, this is cooking of substantial depth; it’s cooking that takes you to the very soul of Polish nature. (F6) ul. Agrykoli 1, belvedere.com.pl Epoka Preserved 19th century cornices and baroque-style drapes lend an enveloping sense of luxury inside this A-Class space.

Scene of the Insider’s most impressive dining moment of 2019, Epoka’s menu is based on Polish cookbooks from different epochs (hence the name, dummy!), with the dishes reconstructed in a way that’s innovative, unexpected and a roller coaster of thrills. Oh gosh moments include jellied apple compote; a sweet and boozy pumpkin pottage; razor thin chestnut with marinated celeriac; and bigos like no other. You want to pause the evening for at least forever: stars await, and anything less would be a miscarriage of justice. (D2) ul. Ossolińskich 3 Europejski Grill The flagship restaurant of the Raffles Europejski has cut no corners in their bid to become one of the city’s top restaurants. A seriously swish interior of pearl white colors is teed-up against contemporary flashes (hexagonal lighting, outsized plates hanging from the wall) and gleaming silverware. Enjoying precisely composed dishes such as beetroot tartar or Dover Sole is a welltailored crowd that expects nothing but the best. (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, raffles.com/warsaw N31 Been there, done it all. That’s Robert Sowa, a national treasure widely hailed for modernizing Poland’s gastronomic sector back in the country’s culinary dark days. A common sight on TV, the chef’s public profile has meant there’s no shortage of bums on seats in his flagship restaurant, but this is more than a chef

EAT! Listings trading on his past. A chic city center bubble beloved by business types, the food is first class with Sowa’s international travels reflected by surprises such as flawless tuna partnered with kabayaki sauce, yuzu, wasabi dressing and turnip salad. The flavor combinations are exceptional. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 31, n31restaurant.pl Nolita For many diners, there is no bigger night out than one that begins and ends in this enclave of class. Dashing in its monochrome colors and muted gunmetal shades, Nolita is where Warsaw heads to live the life of the 1%. Lacking the magic tricks of some, the ‘show factor’ might be subdued but the tastes definitely aren’t. Who to credit? Two words: Jacek Grochowina. Cooking with poise and focus, his menu is a marriage of the classic and creative, with core ingredients given unexpected lifts with cunning turns and inspired little twists: maybe some

yuzu with the tartare or konbu with the eel. (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, nolita.pl PamPam Large spaces, high ceilings, globeshaped bulbs and plush rouge furnishings lend a sense of refinement to PamPam, a feeling that’s in line with a sophisticated menu that promises much with elegantly presented dishes such as sea bass with herbal curry sauce and oyster mushrooms. (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 9/11, pampam.com.pl Platter by Karol Okrasa It’s a fact that Okrasa’s appearances in the kitchen are fleeting and rare, but that’s done nothing to hurt this restaurant’s prestige. Head chef Łukasz Pielak has proved to be a lethal assassin, executing the ideas of his mentor with accuracy and passion. The cooking is detailed, balanced and elegant, with the highlight of our visit being deer in plum sauce. A thing of imperial, velvety rich-

ness it’s a dish that turns up the volume on a memorable experience. (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (Hotel InterContinental Warsaw), warsaw.intercontinental.com Signature Flirting with fine dining – yet at prices a notch below – the menu is a succession of highs that are a tribute to the sophisticated palate of chef Wojciech Kilian. Adding to the sense of being somewhere special is a setting inside the former inter-war Soviet Embassy.

Adorned with original, auction-bought photos of Marilyn, pretty pink colors and luxury fittings, Signature washes over you in waves of bliss. (D5) ul. Poznańska 15, signaturerestaurant.pl Szóstka Head to Floor 6 of the swank Hotel Warszawa. There lies Szóstka, a long, slick space decorated with steel tubing, bursts of greenery and a coved glass ceiling. But it’s outside where everyone

Flavours of Warsaw - traditional Polish cuisine with a distinctive modern touch. Everything is made from fresh seasonal ingredients.

Enjoy, among many others, roasted pumpkin steak with quinoa, oyster mushrooms and beetroot purèe.

Or try our mouth watering pork ribs with Jack Daniell’s sauce, roasted potatoes, cherry tomatoes and rocketoasted daddle of deer with chestnuts, smoked celery purèe and pan fried Brussels sprouts.

Or perhaps you have a taste for duck breast with bean puree with French potatoes and marinated strawberries.

To finish off delight in our home made pastries. tel. 48 22 621 82 68 Żurawia str. 47/49 Warsaw www.smakiwarszawy.com

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EAT! Listings heads, to a sparsely furnished terrace with killer views of the city below. As for the food, drums please for Dariusz Barański, tipped by some as the next Pole headed for a Michelin star. (D4) Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9 (Hotel Warszawa), warszawa.hotel.com.pl

french

fluffy pitas wrapped around freshly grilled chicken; skewers of pork; piping hot pots of moussaka; and delicious meatball-style dishes that are devoured within moments. Warsaw has enjoyed good Greek food before, but now it can offer something even better. A place of authentic hospitality and fabulous food, that this is a labor of love is manifestly obvious from the moment one enters. ul.

Londyńska 16

indian L’Arc Looking elegant with its black/white floors and subtle decorations bills at L’Arc can become big number affairs – especially if you hanker for seafood. Pick from numerous types of oysters or delve into the fish tank for the lobster of your choosing. The catchment area extends beyond the borders of Mokotów, not just because of their ‘fresh from France’ seafood, but because of classic dishes such as Mulard duck and Burgundy snails.

(E8) ul. Puławska 16, larc.pl

georgian Rusiko To the uninitiated, Georgian food is representative of the heart, spirit and passion of its people; it’s a cuisine that values the concept of the feast: wine, laughter and song find themselves elevated to roles of primary importance. A food of life, spice and whole-hearted tastes, consider Rusiko as the best ambassador there is for this surprisingly diverse kitchen, and award-winning chef Davit Turkestanishvili the string-pulling master.

There’s nowhere else in Poland that does Georgian better. Al. Ujazdowskie 22

greek Mr. Greek Souvlaki Enticing with its cute, pocket-size dimensions, array of pot plants and navy blue colors, Mr. Greek bubbles with homespun warmth. The menu is a simple work but the quality is outstanding:

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Bollywood Lounge Known for their raucous dusk-till-dawn parties, there is another less hedonistic roll filled by Bollywood: that of a restaurant. The menu is an uncomplicated, classic affair that’s an ideal primer for the party ahead. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, bollywoodlounge.pl Bombaj Masala Not just the best looking of Warsaw’s Indian restaurants, Bombaj Masala also has some of the best cooking. With so many restaurants reliant on one ‘master pot’ for their curry, this classy venue feels unique in delivering a variety of rich, intense tastes. The vindaloo is a special standout, with big, punchy flavors that leave you tingling long after you leave. Committed fans should keep in mind their Praga outpost in the Koneser complex, reputed to serve the only ‘Indian tapas’ in the country – we’ll visit soon.

(B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, bombajmasala.pl Bombaj Masala Praga Looks-wise it’s a feast for the eyes with 1,760 copper pipes hanging from the ceiling to generate a warming glow that mixes naturally with the brick finishes and spirited works of art. Differing from their mothership on JPII, the menu here involves street food-style tapas such as flat-fried Kachori dumplings and crispy cauliflower pakoras to outstanding tandoori dishes like marinated zander with garlic chili sauce. And when you want it hot, the Kerala lamb curry comes with the capacity to challenge all the senses as it sends you into sniffles of unbridled joy. (G1) ul. Ząbkowska 29 (Centrum Praskie Koneser), bombajmasala. pl/praga

Guru Moving into the space vacated by the lamentable BrewDog pub, Guru joins the city’s (very) shortlist of higher end Indians.

The menu is a union of local, seasonal ingredients (organic this, farmyard that) and imported spices, coming together to blast the competition out of the water.

From the openers, the chili chicken fry stands out as a dish that’s all snap and crackle, while of the mains the tikka masala is exceptional in taste. Plus points for Indian-themed cocktails that really hit the mark – easily one of our favorite openings of 2018. (D4) ul. Widok 8, gururestauracja.pl

international Ale Wino You could eat in Ale Wino a hundred times – and we know some people that have – and still never be bored. That alone says much for the consistency and creativity of a kitchen that has come to be admired as the source of some of the best cooking in the city. Regularly adjusted to utilize the best items the season has to offer, chef Sebastian Wełpa’s menu is a triumph of expertly balanced tastes. Rounding out the experience is an intimate, labyrinthine design that’s ideal for when it’s cold and grim, and a shaded courtyard terrace that’s perfect for when it’s not. (F5) ul.

Mokotowska 48, alewino.pl Brasserie Warszawska Looking for classic cuisine with no daft flights of fancy? Here you have it. At a time when everyone wants to be Ferran Adrià, Brasserie has both a menu and interior that you can understand: panfried foie gras; elegant beef Rossini; and sinful apple tarte tatin, all served inside posh interiors of zinc-plated mirrors and chessboard floors. Their Michelin Bib Gourmand is a source of pride, but it’s the number of repeat clients that are the ultimate paean to the skills of the chef.

(E5) ul. Górnośląska 24 Bułkę przez Bibułkę Like their other ventures, there’s an

EAT! Listings enduring feeling of warmth and that’s despite the outsized dimensions: set in one of the hulking PRL leftovers that line Żurawia, the ceilings seemingly reach for miles but so too do the windows, leaving Bułkę basking in the comforting glow of the morning sun. Bristling with palm fronds and pot plants, the place buzzes through the day with clamor, clatter and lively conversation – come here for all-day breakfasts that include the hefty Lumberjack, and check back in March to see if their bakery’s up-and-running. (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12

a seriously cool vibe inside an interior featuring a retro mirrored wall, upside down plants and busy tables filled with the kind of people that you’d mistake for rising fashion photographers and contributors to Vice. (D6) ul. Oleandrów 8 Mokotowska 69 Set inside a rotunda at the tail end of the street, it’s a place that exudes elegance and class. Most of all, however, it’s a restaurant to be enjoyed. Brought to you by the same team credited for Merliniego

5, Mokotowska’s appreciation of steak has been lifted from their elder sister.

Yet the virtues of this restaurant extend beyond steak alone: on our last visit, the Insider enjoyed a volley of greats – creamy breaded calf brains, sophisticated smoked eel, and Mazurian crayfish served in a deep, joyous sauce of rowan berry and brandy. (E5) ul. Mokotowska 69 Restauracja Warszawska BEST WAWA 2019 “Newcomer” Humongous in size, the vast spaces and

Kieliszki Na Hożej Pristine in its whiteness, the corner tenement housing Kieliszki looks like a big wedge of wedding cake. Justly, the interiors are every bit as delicious with their glimmering glass and geometric patterns.

All this though pales into insignificance on account of a menu that’s noted for its rich, strident tastes and loving presentation: on this juror’s visit, that meant suckling pig bathed in mustard home brew, and a walloping dessert of honey cake and plum jam. Our experience was not some one-off: in an area thick with good restaurants, consider Kieliszki as one of the best. (D5) ul. Hoża 41 Loft Color, that’s what Loft has. It’s everywhere – from the design, which is all bubble shaped lights and splashy, bright cushions, to the drinks: extravagant cocktails that possibly glow in the dark. The menu is full of playful experimentation, something reflected by a seasonal menu that has, in the past, presented such choices as chicken with strawberries. (D4) ul. Złota 11, restauracjaloft.pl MOD BEST WAWA 2019“Casual Dining” An incubator for the unorthodox, this cool and kooky venture pushes the envelope when it comes to being different. Devised

by Trisno Hamid, a Singaporean chef with a classic French background, glories include ramen noodles in a steamy yuzu broth and Angus beef rump steak served with tahini mashed potatoes and a big thump of chili and fig relish. Adding to the sense of being somewhere current, find

Plac Inwalidów 10 | tel. 22 322 82 28 | www.trattoriarucola.pl fb.com/TrattoriaRucola | Insta.com/TrattoriaRucolaWarszawa warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings lack of natural light never feel an issue.

Loaded with slick finishes and polished raw materials, find this subterranean venue unraveling amid the giant original foundations that support this pre-war skyscraper. Divided into ‘snacks’, ‘plates’, ‘sides’ and ‘desserts’, big shouts go to a golden schnitzel the size of a tricycle wheel as well as the spicy pork dumplings served in a vibrant essence of paprika.

It’s not a big menu, but it doesn’t need to be: exceptional in every respect, this restaurant has become one of foodie Warsaw’s biggest talking points. (D4) Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9 (Hotel Warszawa), warszawa.hotel.com.pl Rozbrat 20 BEST WAWA 2019“Neo-Bistro” This busy neo-bistro fuses upmarket, casual styling with an exciting wine list, interactive service and the kind of atmosphere you can’t get enough of. Under chef Bartosz Szymczak’s leadership, Rozbrat’s grown to become one of the blogospheres favorite write-ups. Never the same, if there’s a consistent thread to visits then it’s the playful inventiveness that has come to define Szymczak’s cooking. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 20, rozbrat20.com.pl Zoni BEST WAWA 2019 “Modern Polish” Located in a former Tsarist era vodka distillery, the interior revels in cast iron kilns, flooring produced from 19th

century vodka barrels, long shadows and industrial bits and pieces that have been lovingly restored. Sprawling, historic and not short on statement, it’s an address to impress. Incoming chef Michał Gniadek has already earned a name as a star of tomorrow and his menu is a committed foray into what he terms as “seasonal international cuisine with a Polish twist”.

Think BBQ pork ribs that land with a thwunk, Agnolotti pasta expertly folded over Oscypek cheese and tuna served tataki-style. (G1) Pl. Konesera 1, zoni.today

every night of the week – even their Facebook page warns of 20-minute waiting times for a table alone. (D4) ul.

Chmielna 13A

italian

Prosciutteria Powiśle If Prosciutteria feels good, then it tastes even better. Based around cold cuts, find heavy wooden boards loaded with imported delicacies from small producers that the couple have befriended: Ubriaco cheese bathed in Prosecco; pork belly fat dry-cured for six months; salami from Milan and Naples… There’s more, of course, but it all becomes one in this orgy of pleasure. (F4) ul. Solec 85

Focaccia The big surprise at Focaccia is that there’s no Italian in the kitchen – it appears they don’t need one. Looking splendid in its crystal white colors, this dining room has plaudits aplenty for its selection of pizzas and more sophisticated mains: order the duck breast with marsala sauce for a failsafe choice. (D2) ul. Senatorska 13/15, focaccia.pl

Trattoria Rucola The secret at this chain enterprise?

Despite a cut & paste interior (white tables against forest-themed wallpaper) the underlying and consistent quality has you thinking you’re dining somewhere unique. Find a vast selection of pizzas and other Italian standards cooked to a level that never falls below high. ul. Francuska 6, Krucza 6/14, Miodowa 1, Klimczaka 1 & Inwalidów 10, trattoriarucola.pl

Mąka i Woda Purists applaud an approach that uses a custom-made oven from Naples and imported ingredients such as 00 Caputo flour and DOP certified San Marzano tomatoes. Scrupulously authentic, it’s no wonder that it’s packed to the gunnels

japanese Arigator This Japanese-style noodle joint whisks you to the narrow, steamy back alleys of late night Tokyo. Clad in corrugated iron and dark, weathered wooden slats, it’s got that buzzing sense of chaos that feels familiar from the films. And the food, gosh, they get that right as well.

From a tiny menu order up dainty pork dumplings, braised kakuni bacon or deep-fried tofu before hitting up a feisty bowl of ramen emanating life-affirming goodness. A complex tangle of interlacing flavors, it’s the sort of dish you’d happily queue up for: and yes, people do. (D6) ul.

Piękna 54 Uki Uki How much do the locals appreciate Warsaw’s original udon bar? Enough to queue outside the door? That’s right. Dining is a close quarters experience here, but is done so without complaint: that electric pasta maker turns out noodles of such chewy goodness that everyone leaves beaming. (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, ukiuki.pl

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EAT! Listings latin & spanish Ceviche Bar BEST WAWA 2019 “Ethnic Dining” With chef Martin Gimenez Castro injecting his passion and personality into the venue, this is an address that punches through the greyness of everyday Warsaw. Ceviche – raw fish marinated in citrus juices and cilantro – is the default order, with the Atun one of the best sellers: chunks of tuna given a rich zing with the addition of chili, lime and roasted coriander. The Japanese influence on South America’s dining habits isn’t forgotten either, with must-haves including the the salmon tiraditos: served with teriyaki and sweet potato mash, it’s a joy of satisfying sensations: sweet, dreamy, spicy, creamy.

(C4) ul. Twarda 4, cevichebar.pl Tapas Gastrobar The popular practice is to order so many plates and bottles that the table becomes

a Magic Eye of kaleidoscope patterns.

A great place for sharing and general interaction, the ambiance and quality belies the corporate anonymity of the location. Though the gazapcho is first class it’s bettered by the patatas bravos: fried potatoes in a ballsy tomato sauce.

(A4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tapasbar.pl

mexican Gringo Bar A Mexican wave is upon us, and high time too. After years of suffering frozen ingredients, timid flavors and daft Mariachi music to persuade us it’s all authentic, a raft of new cut-price eateries are showing the rest how it’s done.

Cooked and folded by fist bumping lads in back-to-front caps and baggy t-shirts, the food at Gringo is fiery, fresh and full of zing. There are detractors who claim this is a Polonized version of this cuisine,

but the informal Gringo remains one of the market leaders. (E9) ul. Odolańska 15, gringobar.pl La Sirena You don’t even have to think twice when asked to name the best Mexican in the capital. Inspired by the ultra-violent films of Danny Trejo, the hardcore interior heaves with machetes, holy shrines, skulls and wire mesh; but if La Sirena looks fab, it tastes even better.

Introducing a new dimension to Warsaw’s parched Mexican landscape, highlights inc. poblano peppers stuffed with pork/ beef, peach, apple and apricots, as well as a ‘near death’ salsa that’s finally living up to its name. (D5) ul. Piękna 54 MariCruz Mission Burrito Exuding the rackety, rickety feeling of a food shack, it’s an environment that’s ideal for such a simple street food staple as the “Mission burrito”. Lively and engaging, it’s exactly the required kind of

• Breakfasts daily from 7.00 to 10.30

• Modern take on Italian cuisine

• A unique atmosphere in the heart of the city Focaccia Ristorante Senatorska 13/15, Warsaw/Old Town +48 22 829 69 69, restauracja@focaccia.pl www.focaccia.pl

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EAT! Listings backdrop when dealing with hand-held food. And what’s with the “Mission” part?

That sees the burrito given a treatment first devised in Frisco’s Mission district, with the tightly-rolled tortilla steamed rather than grilled to give it a more elastic texture that’s suited to packing it to the max with slow-cooked ingredients and boisterous homemade salsas. ul.

Zgoda 3, maricruz.pl

middle eastern

Le Cedre With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer.

Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops. (E1) Al. Solidarności 61, lecedre.pl

Le Cedre 84 Le Cedre just keep on getting it right.

Authenticity is key in this chainlette

(well, there’s another two to pick from), as you’ll discover when talking to Tony, the Lebanese owner. To see the diversity of this cuisine, order the balbaak (six cold starters) or the byblos (six hot).

And food aside, it’s the atmosphere that carries them that extra yard: the whole philosophy of this cuisine is to share and share alike, making it a uniquely engaging experience when dining with friends. (B3) Al. Solidarności 84, lecedre.pl

a creamy baba ganoush with a gently smoky taste; zingy tabbouleh salad that screams with perky freshness; and an addictive mechouia dip made with roasted peppers and tomatoes. But these are a precursor for mains such as tajine dishes defined by their big-hearted richness – in this, the beef is the king, with a deep velvet sauce of honey and ginger and knuckle-sized prunes. ul. Burakowska 9, maghreb.pl

polish Le Cedre Lounge Furnished in voluptuous Middle Eastern style, the latest subsidiary of the Le Cedre empire bursts with fancy sheesha pipes, extravagant rugs and shimmery satin drapes. It’s a look that’s fun, familiar, intimate and warm. Less encyclopedic than that of its two sister ventures, Le Cedre Lounge has a slimmer menu that introduces several new tastes to fans of Lebanese cuisine. Helplessly more-ish, it’s food that’s in line with the vibey atmosphere and casual air. (C4) ul.

Grzybowska 5A, lecedre.pl Maghreb Maghreb is a place to call home – a warm, familiar restaurant whose bijou interior falls on the good side of casual. The sense of natural goodness is emphasized by the add-ons that start landing on the table:

Bez Gwiazdek BEST WAWA 2019 “Best Chef” BEST WAWA 2019“Tasting Menu” For full review, see our Powiśle section on p. 20.. (E3) ul. Wiślana 8, bezgwiazdek. com.pl Dawne Smaki The atmospheric interiors hark to bygone years, while in sunnier times the back garden promises an oasis-like experience: if you’re new to Warsaw, it’s actually worth hanging around a few months just to see it. Specializing in traditional cuisine, the deer steak is recommended by all who try it. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 49 Delicja Polska Looking stately (pink bows, gilt touches and immaculate linen) but never stuffy, Delicja have a modern Polish menu that includes sous-vide salmon marinated in beetroot leaves, then topped with horseradish foam and dill emulsion. Brilliant.

But then so was everything else we tried, including the exquisite seasoned roast beef. (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 64, delicjapolska.pl Polana Smaków Compact and woodsy, Polana Smaków has lost none of its copious charm since trading a no-man’s land location for city center Warsaw. Few chefs do a better job than Andrzej Polan when it comes to making herring sexy, with his interpretation arriving with a homemade bagel and blobs of orange pumpkin. Desserts are a sin and have, in the past, included a boozy donut soaked in punch and puffed to extreme with a blast of vanilla cream. It’s sophisticated yet reassuringly simple. (C5) ul. E. Plater 14, polanasmakow.pl

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EAT! Listings The Farm Preaching a message of farm-to-fork, this ambitious eatery takes its produce seriously – to the extent they have their own farm in the lake district to the north.

Adjusted with the seasons, the menu on our visited included a roe deer stewed in Ukiel beer and served in a pan under a light puff pastry: simply but beautiful.

Using chunky woods, copper light fittings and black and white floor tiles, the interior finishing leaves no doubt you’re somewhere upmarket, but the overriding sensation is of being somewhere welcoming and warm. Boosting the homespun charm are wall paintings depicting pastoral scenes from pre-war Prussia.

(D7) ul. Mokotowska 8, the-farm.pl Wuwu Concrete finishes, illuminated tubes of light, glass block walls and graphic illustrations lend a slick smartness to this narrow, bluish space. Busy with start-up entrepreneurs and off-duty business bods, they’re here to enjoy the food that connects vodka with the forgotten classics of inter-war Warsaw. With items like duck tongues on the menu, and a shared address with the Vodka Museum, these are ambitions that are realized. Pl. Konesera 1 (Centrum Praskie Koneser), wuwu.bar

seafood L’Arc Plucked alive and kicking from a burbling fish tank, L’Arc’s lobsters and crabs are among the best in the biz.

Known for their obsessive devotion to seafood, other choices in this elegant, monochrome venue include six kinds of oysters and a bouillabaisse to blow your mind. (E8) ul. Puławska 16, larc.pl

steak houses Beef n’ Pepper Beef N’ Pepper presents itself in a buzzy urban flash of violet blue lighting, slick banquette seating and open

kitchen action. Straight away, you get the feeling of being in a place that’s alive and active, a feeling that’s affirmed by a busy backlit bar from behind which blackshirted staff fling sunny cocktails for the after-work crowd. Of course, it’s the food angle that takes precedence, and at Beef N’ Pepper that translates to a decent choice of surf’n’turf. Highlights include thumping T-bones and a 60-day aged Argentinean top loin. (C5) ul. Nowogrodzka 47A, beefandpepper.pl BykBar Casual and affordable, Byk unassuming interior flatters to deceive: you’re talking about a top quality meat-centric menu that out guns many of the bigger and more high-profile players. (F6) ul. Rozbrat 8 Butchery & Wine When Butchery opened in 2011 it completely transformed the way Poland viewed its steak. The first ‘new wave’ meat joint in the country, it’s launch lit the fuse for a steak revolution. Now an institution in its own right, this cosmopolitan spot remains one of the most sought out bookings in the capital – bookings are advised. (D5) ul. Żurawia 22 Hoża Wine and steak: it sounds simple, but Hoża have taken two simple pleasures to another level. It’s an ebullient space with service right out of charm school, and a kitchen team with a real knowledge of cows. A red-blooded affair, the menu is a steak sensation and well paired with a handpicked wine list. (D5) ul. Hoża 25A, hoza.warszawa.pl Koneser Grill In line with the rebooted factory surroundings, the interior opens out to present a space that feels industrial at its core but not short on smart, chic details: smooth lighting, blond woods, metal fixtures and outbreaks of rich teal colors.

As the firewood stacked under the kitchen counter suggests, fire is central to the plot with the menu little more than a fullblooded foray into carnivorous worlds. But away from the meaty grill dishes there’s also plenty of sophistication: delicate quail Scotch eggs, grilled Fine de Claire oysters and grilled octopus served with duck hearts. (G1) ul. Ząbkowska 29 (Centrum Praskie Koneser), konesergrill.pl warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings thai Bangkok Soi In terms of interior design, find no more than some Chang beer pennants, Muangthong United football scarves, and film posters with unidentifiable titles.

Strangely, however, the basic look feels pleasingly honest. Replicating the street tastes of Bangkok, find vigorously spiced red curry, Som Tam salad containing hard-to-find ingredients such as green papaya, and Tom Sap soup loaded with lemongrass, galangal, kaffir lime leaves and tomato. In this whir of full-throated flavors, it’s easy to become hopelessly lost in waves of bliss. (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 50 Thaisty The most successful business model pioneered in recent years? That’s the work of Thaisty, a bright, cheerful spot with a ‘street style’ and moderate prices – queues, at times, stretch out the door.

Vivid colors and a busy open kitchen lend the place a happy buzz that lasts through the day, yet despite this many have voiced concerns that Thaisty’s runaway success has come at a cost to the overall quality.

Even so, the BBQ skewers remain a good order. (C2) Pl. Bankowy 4, thaisty.pl Why Thai A calming, almost holistic interior sets the tone for a meal dominated by the rich

and aromatic tastes of Thailand. For a lively, spicy start begin with a mango and cashew salad, before moving forward and onto their celebrated curries. Imported chefs keep the flavors authentic, with the pad Thai being something of a house favorite. (E5) ul. Wiejska 13, whythai.pl

vegan

Edamame Vegan Sushi Sushi without its star ingredient sounds ridiculous, but this vegan sushi joint manages to out-maneuver its traditional competitors by replacing below-par fish with fresh, vegetarian produce: pak choy, shiso, avocado, eggplant, oyster mushrooms, asparagus, etc. In HappyCow’s rankings, it scores the highest of the lot.

(E5) ul. Wilcza 11 Leonardo Verde Geometric patterns, plant arrangements and the large format illustrative artwork of Dominique A. Faryno decorate Leonardo Verde, an upmarket – but inexpensive – Italian joint. Pizza is the forte, and you’ll see why after ordering

the ‘hot romantic’. (D5) ul. Poznańska 13, fb.com/leonardo.verde.restaurant Lokal Vegan Bistro Aside from a small menu consisting of standard vegan offers, this stalwart keeps Homer Simpson characters in mind with regular guest slots for ‘junk food’ that’s given a full vegan makeover.

Offhand, that’s meant vegan kebabs, cheesesteaks, burgers and zapiekanka, all of which have been pretty darn fabulous. (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31 Tel Aviv A major icebreaker in terms of Poland’s vegan revolution, Tel Aviv woo with a super-funky, design that evokes the spirit of the Israeli capital through its raw finishes and street art motif. The food is a bonanza of Middle Eastern tastes and has, in the past, been wolfed down by passing members of Depeche Mode. (D5) ul. Poznanska 11, restauracjatelaviv.pl Vegan Ramen Shop Prior to opening the management traveled Asia to track down the best ramen joints before heading back to Poland and trying to ‘veganize’ what they saw. Woah.

These complex bowls of restorative goodness have been described as ‘world class’ by HappyCow, and this they are.

Enjoy your noodles inside cool interiors filled with cute Japanese props on dozens of ‘levitating shelves’. (G3) ul.

Finlandzka 12A

vietnamese Vietnamka Divey but lively, diners step down into Vietnamka to find a shouty little lair of mint green walls and wobbly wooden tables. Infused with a gentle sense of chaos, there’s a certain charm at work that feels authentic and convincing.

As for the food, you suspect that’ll be ’nam good when TV chef Kurt Scheller wonders in for a take-out. And boy, yes it is. Squiggled onto a crumpled sheet of paper, menu items include giant bowls of warming pho, steamed goat with lemongrass and more-ish spring rolls. The cooking here sails Warsaw’s Asian scene into uncharted waters. (D5) ul. Poznańska 7, fb.com/VietnamkaPoznanska

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First Sips WHAT’S THE PROBLEM?

PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEKSANDRA BURSKA

To answer that, there isn’t one. Sitting in the thick of Bracka’s more sociable side, you’ll find No Problem better recognized for its vegan food thanks to a menu that involves such luminaries as a well-spiced Korean Fried Tofu and a brilliantly British-style bangers & mash accompanied by a thick onion gravy. But there’s a bar scene here as well, one that combines beers snacks like oyster mushroom strips with a range of craft beers on tap and seasonal cocktails just perfect for summer. Find these served inside a buzzy space that’s almost Berlin in its spirit: rough-hewn walls, flashes of neon, a plant adoption point, wobbly wooden furniture and posters advertising upcoming gigs and Disco Polo exhibitions. There’s no longer a shortage of places that have nailed the whole resto-bar concept, but this is arguably the first vegan joint to try the same and actually pull it off.

No Problem ul. Bracka 20

warsawinsider.pl

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After-work drinks

T H E A LC H E M I S T

SIX OF THE BEST: AFTERWORK DRINKS !

Returning to work has had its pluses: namely, being able to hit the bar right after you finish. With no further ado, we bring you the places you’ll find us in the weeks right ahead…

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C U DA N A K I J U

The Alchemist

Pl. Piłsudskiego 3, thealchemist.pl A small place with a big bag of tricks: upscale gastro-pub grub from Brit chef Ed Shellard, fancy cocktails, and a self-serve wall of beer from a choice of global brewers. Poland’s still getting used to the idea of ‘a pint after work’, but in The Alchemist the idea of a post-office drink just seems so right: even if you choose to disregard all of the above, head here for a gorgeous summer terrace filled out with leafy succulents and wooden decking. From the off, it’s a place that screams, “off with the tie, there’s drinks to be had!”

Cuda Na Kiju

ul. Nowy Świat 6/12 Set in the former Communist Party HQ, find Warsaw’s first legitimate multitap bar slotted inside a glass prism hidden amid the solid, socialist era arcades.

Drenched in sunlight that comes slanting through the glass walls, queue inside to order from the 15 taps firing out beers from various European craft breweries, before heading out to enjoy a humungous terrace dotted with deckchairs and tables. Watching the sunset while looking out towards

KO KO & R O Y

the city’s iconic palm tree installations is a pure Warsaw moment. For those averse to the sun, find outdoor seating extending well beyond and into the echoing, shaded courtyard of this immense, impressive building.

Koko & Roy

ul. Wilcza 43 Quite when it happened it’s impossible to say, but somewhere along the line Koko & Roy have blossomed into one of the Insider’s favorite evenings. With its quirky-cool design (Princess Leah on the wall, Antony Bourdain in the toilet), no-bullsh*t multinational crowd and maverick playlist, at weekends it’s the kind of place you hit pre-club before deciding to drop the club bit altogether.

And in the event that things are slow, you can rely on the owners to grab the evening by the horns and lead you down a murky rabbit hole involving off-the-cuff cocktails and offbeat conversation. Before you know it, by God, is it really nearly four?

But there is more; significantly calmer during the week, drop in for carefully composed drinks and craft beers from the epic Stu Mostow brewery and a menu that show-

LO R E TA

cases a more sophisticated side to the American palette. Offering a stretch of street-side terracing and a warm, familiar welcome, few places are more conducive when it comes to that sacred after-work chillout pint.

Loreta

ul. Widok 9 (Puro Hotel) With the city’s rooftops spread below, and its towers glinting in the sunset, there aren’t many places the Insider prefers to be this summer than on the roof of the Puro cradling a cocktail in its paws. This is the setting of Loreta, a bar that channels the spirit of this design-led hotel brand through its funky décor and eclectic art.

The terrace, though, is the clincher. As night falls, retreat to a deck signposted by a neon the color of bubblegum pink; here, amid bristling greenery and low-slung seating, join other cocktail hounds enjoying house sips such as the Loreta Cup – a sophisticated mix of whisky, agave, chili and lemon. Good as these signature drinks are, the best bet is to challenge the gunslingers at the bar to make something a little more personal: their ad-libbed cocktails are a highlight.

PA R D O N T O T U

Pardon To Tu

Al. Armii Ludowej 14 If the old PTT looked rebel and renegade and a little scruffy around the seams, then the new version (opened last year) is definitely more sanitized: squelchy, scuzzy toilets? No chance. Set inside a corner unit of the PWC office building, it’s a place that feels well-armed for the requirements of modern Warsaw. And there’s the size: woah! In terms of footprint, it’s not all that much larger, but the sense of scale is distorted by a ceiling that reaches to the heavens – for prime viewing, use the spiral stairs to gain a bird’s eye perspective from the mezzanine level.

Famed for its mega weird music policy (check the wall of glory namechecking their favorite bands and musicians) and home-baked focaccia, other features to celebrate include edgy Polish beers in the fridge, generous outdoor seating as well as the underlying air of unforced cool.

There’s no airs or graces here, what you get is a mixed crowd that covers all backgrounds and nationalities – that everyone gets along is a tribute to the atmosphere created by Daniel and

STIXX

Magda at the helm of operations.

Stixx

Pl. Europejska 4A, stixx.pl Nowhere symbolizes Wola’s seismic changes more than Pl. Europejski: but while the temptation is to gawk up towards the sparkling Spire, doing so ignores the changes on ground level.

Filled with curving walkways, pinches of greenery and fancy water features, the city's first post-war public access square is really quite something. But while it’s integrated seamlessly into the very fabric of the city, it’d feel incomplete without the addition of Stixx.

Opened a few years back amid much hype and fanfare, it’s a place that captures the essence of New Warsaw: smart, sophisticated but also sassy and fun. Certainly, that applies once the day reaches cocktail o’clock. With the roof rolled back on the all-weather terrace, the feeling is of being somewhere truly international; that sensation is amplified by the cosmopolitan crowd, a diverse global menu and a style that effortlessly slips between restaurant, hangout and bar. Such are the aesthetics, you’re reminded of a yacht party in Cannes. warsawinsider.pl

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drink! Listings! bars & pubs 2Koła Sat in the backspaces and brickyards behind Zachodnia station, 2Koła feels like Warsaw’s dirtiest little secret. Still stained and smelling of grease and oil, this former garage is piled high with dented sofas, warehouse palettes and motorcycling detritus. Yet the supremely friendly owners have turned this shadowy lair into a cult bar that’s specifically celebrated for rowdy jam sessions that cover everything from ragtime to rockabilly. ul.Tunelowa 2B Bar Pacyfik Seemingly based upon the kind of Tijuana dive bar you’d have happened upon during the Miami Vice era, Pacyfik is all candy floss pink and shades of teal: a raw-looking den that looks purposefully imperfect. Keeping the hip international crowd on the wrong side of drunk are kick-ass drinks such as their Clamado Michelada or Kimchi Bloody Mary – three sips and you think you’re Superman. (C5) ul. Hoża 61

Bar Studio The dehumanizing dimensions of the Palace of Culture are softened in warmer weather when Pl. Defilad turns into a quasi-party zone. Should it rain, seek shelter under the covered colonnades: there’s room for everyone. And with no nearby residents to pester, it’s just about one of the only places in Warsaw where noise is never an issue – scream and no-one cares.

Inside, the gaudy, echoey interiors are juxtaposed against an arty events program that includes book launches, silent discos, communal breakfasts and gramophone nights. (C4) Pl. Defilad 1 Beirut & Kraken Somewhere, amid all the junk relating to the Lebanese conflict (grenades, sandbags, ammo boxes, a rocket…), you’ll find the spirit of Poznańska contained within this long, skinny bar. As fashionable now as it was when it opened, forget not to finish the evening in their connecting venture, the Pirates of the Caribbean-style Kraken Rum Bar. Everybody else does at some stage or other, with evenings often dissolving into a wild, happy whirl of international voices. (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, beirut.com.pl

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Central Bar The natural focal point of Hala Koszyki is the Central Bar, a long, long space serving microbrews and classic cocktails such as Pimm’s under a spectacular wrought iron ceiling. Not many places feel as international, and three years after opening it remains one of Warsaw’s top check-ins. Talent spotting doesn’t get any better. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki)

Chłodna 25 After several closures, noise clampdowns and a change in management you’d imagine C25 to be a mere shadow of what it once was. But after a slow start the new management have rescued this listing vessel and returned it to it best. On the ground floor it’s a place of creaking floorboards and retro armchairs, while the basement gets opened for experimental music nights and improvised orchestras.

(B3) ul. Chłodna 25, klubchlodna25.pl

Foton It’s good, seriously good. Part of that is down to a design that’s startlingly simple yet beautifully composed: think raw materials, steel frames and a vast, green fleet of tumbling plants. The F&B ain’t bad, either. Pimped up Latin American street food is the order of the day, and it all rhymes well with a drinks menu involving exotica such as chili mango margaritas.

The later it gets, the better it is. (E5) ul.

Wilcza 9A, fb.com/foton.bar Gram Up the stairs you go to enter Gram, a small room that invokes feelings of stepping inside a circus Big Top. Order up a craft beer from the fridge before making your way around the arcade games and pinball machines squeezed inside – come on, there’s not much to beat the feeling of outscoring your date on Space Invaders and Pac-Man. Between turns, count the number of monkey figures parachuting from the ceiling... (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 45/49 Jaś & Małgosia Insouciant one moment, your best friend the next, the staff at Jaś & Małgosia show the two faces of Polish service brilliantly.

Reactivated a couple of years ago, this pavilion bar has a story dating back to the 60s, and a great atmosphere primed for plates of simple food, shots of vodka

and bottles of local beer. A cornerstone of Muranów, the diversity of the crowd says much for the warmth of the overall atmosphere. (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 57, klubjasimalgosia.pl

Klubokawiarnia Towarzyska Saska’s nightlife is limited to the point of being virtually non-existent, so the existence of Towarzyska is welcome indeed. Set inside a 1950s pavilion and signposted by zippy neon sign, find a cool café on ground level, and a moodier space downstairs that has the atmospheric feel of a David Lynch film. Craft beers and a smoking zone earn bonus points. ul.

Zwycięzców 49

Legends Run by Graham, an ex-embassy bod and devout Everton fan (well, someone has to be), this Brit pub has become the de facto choice when the football is on. Or the rugby. Or the cricket. Or just about any other sport that expats care to watch.

Whether it’s the Champions League or Bristol City on a wet, Tuesday night, there’s just no better space for boozy banter while the match unfolds. (C5) ul.

Emilii Plater 25, legendsbar.pl

Plan B Plan B is the very essence of dive Warsaw.

Weekends pass by in a raucous blur, with the party spilling out under the colonnades outside – it helps to look like a DJ, but in truth everyone is welcome to this hive of debauchery. (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), planb.pl

W Oparach Absurdu Somewhere, buried beneath the Persian rugs, dusty velvety drapes and wobbling antiques, you may find a bar. On your way, obstacles in this louche dive may include vodka fueled grans, scriptwriting beatniks and the trumpet tooting members of the Bum Bum Orchestra.

Expect the unexpected. (F1) ul. Ząbkowska 6, oparyabsurdu.pl

Worek Kości H.P. Lovecraft would love it. Decorated with replica skulls (400 reckons the owner!), this place is nothing if not a passionate celebration of the beautiful and bizarre. Burlesque shows are their specialty, but at other times don’t be too shocked to stumble in on meetings with

drink! Listings! private detectives, seminars by criminal profilers or gigs by bands with names such as Bipolar Order. Crazy, brilliant, etc., and ideal for a night with a difference. (E7) ul. Bagatela 10

Wozownia Set in a 200-year-old carriage house within a secretive courtyard, Wozownia started life looking raw and ramshackle – in parts, it still does, but that’s not to say improvements haven’t been made, not least to a Lynch-esque winter garden that feels brilliantly dream-like. Drinks-wise, kick-ass cocktails sell just as well as the Prosecco, which remains arguably the cheapest glass of sparkly you’ll find in the city. Pair that with a sceney crowd of off-duty DJs, camp dudes with manbags and slender nightlife creatures and you have a place that feels on the front end of hip. Being here, so are you. (E4) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 16

cafés Być Może It’s all about artisan bread and breakfast in the industrial looking Być Może. It’s taken the concept of Charlotte (groan, there’s even a communal table), and improved it with excellent breads and a crowd that’s a little less pleased with itself. (E7) ul. Bagatela 14, bycmoze.com.pl Coffeedesk Looking flawless in her pearl white colors, Coffeedesk is a place that does it right.

Brewed by expert coffeeologists, the humble cup of Joe becomes an object of adoration. Populated round-the-clock by head-phoned freelancers and digital nomads tapping into their Macs, it’s a light, bright spot with a dynamic style and a keen sense of sexy. (D5) ul. Wilcza 42, fb. com/coffeedeskwilcza

Cophi The phrase three’s a crowd could have been coined with Cophi in mind. Its super-snug dimensions are ideal for an afternoon spent curled up on an armchair watching the leaves tumble down on Hoża outside. A passion project whose small footprint is counterbalanced by the depth of its offer, the living room vibe mounts when the temperatures start dropping

and the interiors act as a beacon to the public. (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60 Dobro & Dobro Cafe Measuring just six square meters (record attendance: 12 customers!), the tiniest cafe in Poland has grown into a cult stopoff for people looking to do something wacky. If you’re into karma, then buy a suspended coffee – order a coffee in advance for a stranger, write a personal message and then hang the cup from a string. (E8) ul. Puławska 11, fb.com/dobrocafe FatWhite_CoffeeBar Attached to the hippest barber shop in town (tatts, beards and crazy whiskers!), the presence of this pocket-sized café gives Muranów a fresh, bold swagger.

Coffee aside (the cold brew rocks), the disarmingly friendly staff and locals generate one of the best café scenes for miles whilst the collection of toy figures (Bart Simpson, DC action heroes and a gun-toting Pacino) feels brilliantly off-beat. (C1) ul. Andersa 6 Forum Born with Instagram in mind, Forum has it all: super cool Afro-haired staff, a fashionably frayed interior, and a devoted client base that’s all about out-sized headphones and razor-thin laptops.

Changing weekly, the big pull is a menu of specialty coffees from acclaimed roasters such as Five Elephant and The Coffee Collective fixed up by Poland’s AeroPress and Brewers Cup champion. (C3) ul.

Elektoralna 11, forum.coffee

Nuova Simonelli machine, the coffee hails from a range of pedigree roasters such as Warsaw’s own Coffee Lab. Creaky wooden floorboards, local artwork and nonobtrusive colors make it a prime perch after a wintry prowl through the parks of Powiśle. (F5) ul. Fabryczna 28/30 Kawiarnia Kawałek This neighborhood café offers a human touch in an area filling itself with gleaming glass blocks and gated compounds. Acting as a magnetic force, the homemade nitro machine (“I just like making things,” says the owner), is a thing of legend. (B4) ul. Łucka 18, fb.com/ KawiarniaKawalek

Krem A chic city center hangout with all the swanky, urban elegance of the 8th arrondisement. Opened by the same team behind Monsieur Leon, find their latest little baby decorated with monochrome tiles, marble-topped tables, and retro-styled mirrors. A place of hip sophistication and laid-back vibe, the menu is built around French cheeseboards, raclette and super sexy baguettes. (D6) ul. Śniadeckich 18

Relaks Now in their ninth year of business, any Hall of Fame (suburban or otherwise) just wouldn’t feel complete without the inclusion of this evergreen institution. Jacketed in chipboard panels and retro posters, the buzz about Relaks has lasted so long as to become ingrained in their DNA. (E9) ul.

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Hałas Vinyl + Coffee At 15 sq/m it’s a squeeze but Hałas doesn’t half pack a punch within its small footprint. Doubling as a friendly record store, it’s the kind of place where super hip punters stock up on Winehouse and Bjork while ordering up coffee ordered from roasters such as London’s Dark Arts roastery. Find their younger sister operating in a chilled out basement on Saska Kępa’s Elsterska 10 – it’s impossible to say which we prefer. ul. Jagiellońska 30 Kawiarnia Fabryczna A place to eavesdrop, catch-up on gmail and daydream the morning away, head to this warm den to sink inside comfy retro chairs and bask in the natural light that pours through the window. Prepared on a

Relax Na Wilczej An updated upgrade of the original Relax found downtown, this modern day success story maximizes all available space and light with a clean-lined interior that’s embellished by a scattering of coffee tomes and a statement mural by Mariusz Tarkawian. A cracking edition to the capital’s line-up of alt. coffee haunts.

(D5) ul. Wilcza 17, fb.com/RelaxNaWilczej

Roślina Though not quite in the same abundance as some of those on this shortlist, plants constitute a major part of the design, a point underlined by the venue’s very name (you’ve guessed right, it means ‘plant’). The specialty coffees and warsawinsider.pl

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drink! Listings bountiful vegan options go well with an attractively artsy low-budget look featuring bare concrete and droopy plans hanging from the pipes. A true cult café that feels essential to the function of Bielany! ul. Schroegera 80 Same Fusy Suffused in a soft candle-lit glow, this 15th century cellar unwinds to reveal a charming, vaulted brick room suspended in another time. Filled with gnarled wooden oddities and tree stump tables, the sweet aroma of fragrant teas helps amplify the fairy tale mood and Hobbit-esque atmosphere. With the first chill winds of autumn blowing through the cobbled streets of Old Town, Same Fusy acts as a warm refuge in which to shelter. ul. Nowomiejska 10

U Krawca Blue-collar Grochów isn’t everyone’s cup of tea, but this café has done much to swing the area’s rep into credit. Creaky floorboards and references to the address’s former function as a tailor’s shop lend a warmth that’s particularly pronounced once the overhead draftsman’s lamps are switched on. Homemade cakes, hipster colas and coffee sourced from the likes of Gesha keep it packed with a friendly crowd of local aficionados.

(D1) ul. Siennicka 3

Yestersen Not content with ruling the domestic scene where online vintage furnishings are concerned, Yestersen have gone one better and opened a bricks-and-mortar venture – complete with coffee while you browse! More in line with wading into an aesthetic wave of bliss, on stepping inside visitors are confronted by a sea of beautiful objects: from iconic wall units by Volák to retro tables by Halabali. On the coffee front, find specialty brews supplied

by Cophi and no shortage of pretty little cakes and tarts courtesy of Muus. (C6) ul.

Lekarska 5, fb.com/yestersen.warsaw

cocktails Aura The mousehole dimensions of Aura are tempered by the tall ceilings and Moroccan-style design: dark, mysterious

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and intriguing, the overriding sentiment extends to the drinks, many of which incorporate Aura’s exhaustive collection of bourbons. Promoting the heavy use of swivelly chrome stools and Persian rugs, the heavy dose of retro glam is balanced out by a crowd that strays into the head turning category. Setting foot inside this secretive den of iniquity, you understand the fuss. ul. Hoża 27 Back Room Plush fabrics, muted lighting, intuitive service, a well-scrubbed crowd, a flickering fireplace and shelves displaying drinks as if they were trophies: the ambiance is nailed down to such an extent that those who use this speakeasy for pre-club drinks often find themselves skipping the club bit altogether. And why bother with anywhere else when you have masterpiece cocktails that are immaculate, imaginative and mixed with practiced expertise. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 49A, fb.com/ BackRoomWarsaw

Ceviche Bar Though primarily celebrated for their Latin American menu, the ‘bar’ part of the name isn’t there for window dressing.

The modern design, DJs and drinks work seamlessly to generate an ambiance that’s buzzy, energetic and something of a scene. Cocktail-wise, order Warsaw’s best Pisco Sour or explore a ‘Nikkei’ card that blends Peruvian and Japanese ingredients to present truly unique tastes.

(C4) ul. Twarda 4, cevichebar.pl

Coctail Bar Max Can you trust a cocktail bar that can’t even spell the word? In this case, yes! Max looks bright, cheerful and fully loaded for the sun, and also comes with a smoking alcove in the back stuffed with whisky and cigars. The cocktails are the main affair though, and here they’re extravagant efforts that resemble a tropical jungle in miniature form. Very popular with types that aspire to become footballers’ wives, etc. (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, barmax.pl The Cuba Libre Rum & Cigar House Envelope yourself in luxury at Cuba Libre, a no expense spared venture aimed at those who deal with nothing but the best.

Gathering the bright and the beautiful inside sophisticated tobacco-colored interiors, the warming ambiance is

primed for an evening of cigars and conversation over pedigree-style cocktails and limited edition rums. (D5) ul.

Poznańska 37, thecubalibre.pl

El Koktel The pert and pretty are here, so too the well-groomed modern man, but there’s a balance to the crowd that prevents any whiff of snob. As a bar it feels open-minded, engaging and intelligent, and those are traits that rub off on those present. Drinks – such as the smoking Out Of The Box – are insanely good, and served in a small, high-ceilinged interior busy with framed vintage posters, cyancolored wallpaper, baffling photos of Lynch-esque scenes and gleaming strainers and shakers. (D4) ul. Wojciecha Górskiego 9, elkoktel.pl

Kita Koguta The staff aren’t afraid to get imaginative, and that includes serving cocktails in smoking coconut husks. Aimed at a younger crowd largely in their 20s, it’s a good-humored, lively cocktail bar that’s famed around the country for the creativity of its bartenders. Next door, visit their sister bar, Kiti. Dominated by a tall Polynesian totem, this ray of sunshine gets noted for extravagant cocktails served by game staff in zany shirts. (E5) ul. Krucza 6/14

La Sirena Though primarily known as the best Mexican restaurant in the country, the cocktails are of such a standard that it’s become impossible to ignore La Sirena’s credentials as an exceptional bar as well. Fixed using a range of premium tequilas, the innovative tastes feel all the better for the intriguing surrounds: walls of corrugated iron and peeling plaster are coordinated with crossed machetes, shrill neon and decorative tiles. The final effect brings to mind a deadly cool recreation of a drug baron’s jailhouse cell. (D5) ul. Piękna 54 Long Bar Posh doesn’t begin to cover it. Clad in smooth marble, natural oak, eye-catching art and soft tan leather, Long Bar imparts a sense of luxury that feels elegantly timeless yet never excessive nor ostentatious. This being part of the venerable Raffles chain, you’d be missing the mark

drink! Listings if you ordered anything but their signature Slings – make a night of it by roaring through their ten different versions of this trademark drink. (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13 (Raffles Europejski Hotel) Loreta It’s quite possible that the design stage of Loreta didn’t envision a great big tower block being built next door, but while the view from this top-floor bar isn’t quite as sweeping as it might have been, it does more than enough to feel a little special. Back indoors, find a cool décor that channels the spirit of this design-led hotel brand through its funky décor and eclectic art: think soft pinkish colors, leafy succulents and loungey extras. For drinks, then turn to house sips such as the Loreta Cup – a sophisticated mix of whisky, agave, chili and lemon. ul. Widok 9 (Puro Hotel)

Mr. Oh A semi-secret world for those In The

Know, find Mr. Oh in one of the Harry Potter towers that prop up Poniatowski Bridge. Dark, decadent and redolent of an after-hours members club, this latest concept from Enio ChłapowskiMyjak (formerly of 6 Cocktails) is firmly on its way to becoming the coolest address in town. Late nights, Asianthemed cocktails and an A-list crowd await: full report soon! (F4) Al. 3 Maja / ul. Kruczkowskiego, mr-oh.com

T Podwale Bar & Books R C P T M the kind of charismatic Occupying C W you’d read about in Dickens, gatehouse ≈ W C yourself in front of the upstairs position ≈ C C fireplace for a celebratory cigar and a ≈ glassTof something tall and lovely: the ≈ P E are in a class of their own and cocktails ≈ L S specifically customized for the season.

Spooling, silent Bond films, regular P B B burlesque shows and random decorative monkey figures add an unexpected ‘element of weird’. (D2) ul. Wąski Dunaj HE MOST

EFRESHINGLY LACES

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Panorama Sky Bar The Marriott’s 40th floor Panorama has had a couple of incarnations: first, as a glitzy Dynasty throwback, and then, more recently, as something that could have passed for a business class airport lounge. Now it’s been reinvented once again, only this time successfully: find slick, vibrant interiors redolent of London matched up with modern cocktails and twinkling views. (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, panoramabar.pl

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Wąski Dunaj 20, 00-256 Warsaw Tel.: +48 225.599.199

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Reginabar Hip and happening, the concept at Reginabar is a wacky amalgam that mixes elements of New York’s Little Italy with China Town next door. The menu rocks, but find V O L i n Y a P it augmented by a dynamic cocktail list n

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drink! Listings that reflects the crazy things happening in Warsaw’s world of drinks: that means, the regular sips aside, ‘magic cocktails’ with names such as Power Spells and Star Dust. Dazzly and mysterious, lap these up in an interior that joins the retro with the avant garde. (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, fb.com/ Reginakoszykowa1

The Roots Having recruited some of the top bartenders in Poland, The Roots have a serious artillery on which to rely. So committed is this haunt, its walls are graced by a vast collection of cocktail memorabilia: antique jiggers, shakers, coolers, not to mention an original signed copy of the world’s first cocktail handbook (published: 1862!). (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 11

Warmut Set in the Commie era No Man’s Land between Zbawiciela and Konstytucji, it’s become one of the hottest nights in town. This vermouth-inspired cocktail bar features classic and house creations, and a spectacular design involving street art, greenery and mirrored walls. But the piece de resistance? Those are the scale models of local landmarks that hang from the ceiling. Instagram them now before everyone else does. (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 45/49 Weles Named after the Slavic god of the underworld, everything about Weles evokes the spirit of indulgence: a zinc 1920s ceiling imported from the States, a crystal chandelier and a wooden bar carved from a British carousel. A work of refined craftsmanship, the cocktails stand out as the most sophisticated in the city.

(D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 11, welesbar.pl

Woda Ognista Woda Ognista evokes the jazzy air of a Chicago, Prohibition era speakeasy with a seriously stylish interior that includes a colossal collection of vintage cocktail shakers glinting behind glass. The drinks themselves, rattled up by dapper gents in braces and flat caps, are split between house creations and reprised classics from a bygone era. Some are more successful than others, and it’s a credit to the staff that they’re willing to take comments on board and adapt their precious recipes to suit fussy tastes. (E5) ul. Wilcza 8, wodaognista.com

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craft beer Artezan Pub The country has crazier breweries for sure, but does it have anyone more consistent than the lads at Artezan. Famed for their Pacific – the quintessential domestic IPA – Artezan’s flagship bar is a standard bearer not just for quality, but for Poland as a whole. (D4) ul. Moniuszki 1A Chmielarnia Marszałkowska A breath of fresh air when compared to the original – literally. Points are earned by whoever thought to add an Indian menu, while other pluses are awarded for a fridge housing exciting brews trending around the globe: from super cool Bermondsey breweries to Scandinavian legends, it’s a place you feel actually broadens your horizons. (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16

Craft Beer Muranów Humble and unpretentious, CBM’s rising stock has been reflected by their recruitment of Marcin Chmielarz, one of the best-known ‘beer managers’ in Poland.

But even before him, this basic-looking joint was already making ripples for its consistency: a pint is totally unheard of. (B1) ul. Andersa 23, fb.com/ craftbeermuranow

Cześć It started as a café, but now Cześć is better known as being at the forefront of the new generation of ‘quali-tap’ bars – small little places with six or so beers on the go. The two owners, Piotrek and Kuba, take their beer seriously, so do expect plenty of new finds as well as traditional favorites from stalwarts like Artezan and Pinta. The laidback, neighborhood atmosphere makes it ideal for an after-work chillout pint. (C3) ul. Grzybowska 2 (through the side passage), czesc.waw.pl

Drugie Dno The natural start (or finish) point of any Nowogrodzka pub crawl, head to The Double D for a space that conjures to mind a disused power station: sporting rugged brickwork and a scuffed style, the neo-industrial look is ramped up with the liberal use of steel girders, vintage voltage meters and toilets disguised as elevator shafts. Sixteen taps to drink through,

many of them offering extreme drinking solutions from Europe’s most radical breweries. Looks great, tastes great, a factor that ensure a male-to-female ratio that feels roughly equal. Equally interested, is their Ochota location on leafy Tarczyńska 5/9. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 4

Goraczka Zlota Get down with the locals at Gorączka Złota, a steamy pub with a rowdy atmosphere. Touting the dimensions of a cabin boy’s quarters, this pungent, pokey den is one of the oldest bars in town. Despite carrying many epic beers from Poland’s rebel brewers, there’s nothing faddish about GZ and it’s this sense of normalcy that lends it its enduring appeal. (D5) ul.

Wilcza 29, goraczka-zlota.com.pl

Jabeerwocky Drowned in boisterous babble and general pub racket, the affable Jabbers is home to what most rate as the most adventurous choice of craft beer in the city: pioneering international breweries are well represented, but don’t overlook the sensational drinks produced by Jabeerwocky’s very own master brewer.

(D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 12, taproom.pl

Kufle i Kapsle Found somewhere round the top of Warsaw’s hierarchy of craft beer bars, Kufle welcomes all, from entry level novices taking their first steps in the beery world to note-taking nerds conducting research for their blogs. Interiors are respectful of the building’s pre-war heritage and are thick with noise, clamor and the reassuring smell of spillage. The edgy beer selection becomes is even more radical when you look down in the fridge.

(D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 25

Maryensztadt Craft Beer You need not go far to escape the baying mob of tourists that stampede through the Rynek. Just round the corner, Maryensztadt occupies a charming cobbled corner of the city’s Old Town that feels serene and picturesque. It isn’t just beer buffs that it appeals to: sourcing their ingredients from smallscale farmsteads, the kitchen wing of Maryensztadt does a convincing job of representing the tastier side of regional Poland. (D1) ul. Szeroki Dunaj 11

Drink! Listings Same Krafty Squashed into two narrow, rugged rooms decorated with benches and rough plaster walls, Same Krafty have rescued Old Town from big beer brands peddling piss. Offering artisan alternatives, this intimate bar lures daring tourists looking to explore the more subversive side of Polish brewing. Too busy? Head five meters opposite to Same Krafty Vis-à-vis.

You will find tourists, but locals are often the majority, a telling indicator that says much for their approval rating. (D1) ul.

Nowomiejska 10

for gentlemen Playhouse Housed in a former subterranean bomb shelter, the talk now is of bombshells: namely the 57 stunners they’ve got listed on their books. Inspired by high class joints in London and Vegas, it’s a refined choice with a no-pressure atmosphere and door staff that don’t look like they’re going to kick your head in. (B3) Al. Solidarności 82A, playhouse.pl

live music

12 on 14 For a country with such a noble jazz tradition the paucity of dedicated clubs in the capital feels like an aberration.

Doing a sterling job of filling that void are 12 on 14, a venue whose courtyard location lends a feeling of stepping into the unknown. Decorated with the requisite portraits of trumpet tooting legends, the debonair, moody confines match well with the sounds at hand. (D6) ul. Noakowskiego 16

you can feel something special happening here. ul. 11 Listopada 22 Klub Pogłos Scuzzy and a bit seamy, this alt. performance venue gives Warsaw an interesting, if not utterly random direction with an events schedule that involves spoken word performances, vegan BBQs, old skool rave nights and hardcore gigs from bands with names like Cancer Bats and Moscow Death Brigade. They’ve had bingo nights, as well – hosted by Charlotte Drag Queer. In a city that’s always felt a little lacking in the ‘live’ department, Pogłos punches past sensibility to present evenings that are raw, uncompromising and always high on action. ul. Burakowska 12, fb.com/klubpoglos Pardon To Tu Set across two floors, find bordello colors set against a wall of glory namechecking the obscure musical heroes through which this venue channels its spirit.

Adding an extra layer of depth to Warsaw’s social scene with its flexi hours, maverick music policy and air of unforced cool, PTT win brownie points for their cool craft beers and cracking focaccia. (D6) Al. Armii Ludowej 14, pardontotu.pl

wine bars

Ale Wino!

Summers here are magical, with drinkers congregating on a courtyard deck shielded from the sun by a slanted white sail; but winters aren’t too shabby either – lose yourself within a warren of warmly-lit rooms that feel snug, intimate and even a little rustic. The choice of 250 plus wines is supported by some of the best cooking in the city. (E5) ul. Mokotowska 48, alewino.pl

Hydrozagadka / Chmury Set out in the wildlands of Praga, consider this pair of neighboring venues as the definition of unforced cool. Known for their alternative music scene, the lowceilings and their tight, crowded confines generate an electrifying atmosphere where the audience and band become one. Walking a fine line between industrial and straight out decrepit, the ambiance is second to none: drinks flow, strangers meet and music smashes out –

Piłsudskiego 9

Dyletanci The archetypal all-rounder, Dyletanci has it all: an approachable bistro style; adventurous cooking; and a wine list with no discernible Achilles Heel. Burgundy is a particular strength, as too are Polish wines (including those from the proprietor’s own vineyard, the upcoming Dom Bliskowice). (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44,dyletanci.pl Kieliszki Na Hożej Go on, count them: hanging tantalizingly over the bar are 1,116 glasses, a testament to Kieliszki’s promise to serve all the wines they have (and there’s a motherlode to pick from) by the glass.

Enjoy them on a cobbled street that’s been magnificently restored to its pre-war prime. (D5) ul. Hoża 41, kieliszkinahozej.pl Mielżyński Wine Bar Tangled in vines and creeping ivy, this brick warehouse comes into its element each summer when drinkers pile outside to drink amid rustling trees and pristine lawns. Set within a former factory compound, the area has been revived with the legendary Mielżyński Wine Bar at its core. A flagbearer when it comes to consistency and quality, this post-industrial space remains a default favorite of the Warsaw public. (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7 (also on Czerska 12), mielzynski.pl

Nowina The striking interior that catches the eye from across the street – restored pre-war tiling, glinting surfaces, a world map rendered from corks and an engaging reddish glow all do their bit to lend Nowina the kind of atmosphere that’s missing in most local wine bars. Add to that an exciting international menu and a selection of over 400 wines and you have an absolute winner. (D4) ul. Nowogrodzka 4, nowina.waw.pl

Bubbles Despite sounding like a 1980s Essex nightclub, find this bistro locked inside an eternal state of romance. A charismatic assembly of rickety crates, Tolix chairs and deep forest greens, this compact space is ripe for dating. Order a glass of bubbles before plunging into a menu inspired by the slow food philosophy.

Damn right there’s a lot to like at Bubbles, but there’s even more to love. Pl.

Rusiko Wine Bar The perfect foil for the Rusiko restaurant next door, this high-ceilinged, sapphirecolored haunt showcases Warsaw’s biggest selection of Georgian wine inside an interior decked out with elaborate rugs horded by the owner. Having first enjoyed the food opposite, finish the night in this genial, cozy bar. (E5) Al. Ujazdowskie 22, fb.com/winebarrusiko warsawinsider.pl

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GET LOST IN… THE WOODS PRESS MATERIAL

Based on the best-selling Harlan Coben book, The Woods dominated the Netflix rankings after first dropping in June, and in the process earned itself a hardcore fanbase who found themselves hopelessly bingeing on this gripping adaptation. Filmed in and around Warsaw, Poland’s second ever Netflix original series tells the story of Paweł Kopinski, a criminal prosecutor whose sister vanished during a summer camp twenty-five years back. Switching between two timespans – the present day and 1994 – this dark psychological thriller follows Kopinski as he fights to get to the bottom of the mystery that has haunted him into adulthood. Beautifully shot and high on 90s nostalgia, this slow-burning feast brims with improbable twists and has become the must-watch of the summer: do so!

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THE ESSENTIALS...

CHOPIN MUSEUM

T H E R O YA L C A S T L E

Cut through the chaff and time manage your visit as effectively as possible.

THE OLD…

The Old Town, raised from the rubble after WWII, is symbolic of the ‘phoenix city’ that ‘survived its own death’.

The Royal Castle is a maze of fancy chambers and important paintings by the likes of Rembrandt and Canaletto, while the Museum of Warsaw offers a peerless peek into the complexities of Warsaw’s story: the view of the Old Town Square from the top is worth the admission alone. Close by, check out the city that once was at Park Miniatur, a beautiful exhibition displaying intricate scale models of the city’s pre-war architectural glories. To soak in the extravagances of Poland’s imperial years, take a walk around the immaculate Łazienki Park or, further out, visit Wilanów Palace: frequently nicknamed ‘the Polish Versailles’, the landscaped gardens are simply glorious. Finally, tap into the very essence of the Polish soul by visiting the Vodka Museum on the right side of town.

WWII

Memories of WWII still cast a long shadow over the town. Learn about the 1944 Warsaw Uprising at The Rising Museum: it’s deservedly rated as among the most important cultural institutions in the country. Lesser known, the Old Town’s ‘Heritage Centre’ documents the destruction (and subsequent reconstruction) of the city, while three separate museums, Pawiak, Szucha and Katyń, cover equally somber chapters in Poland’s dark history – in an added boon, the latter is an architectural

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gem. To get up close and personal to military hardware, visit the Polish Army Museum. Having marked the 70th anniversary of both the Nazi and Soviet aggression just last year, visiting all feels particularly relevant.

JEWISH WARSAW

Though largely flattened, the former Jewish Ghetto contains numerous memorials, among them the Umschlagplatz monument marking the spot where trains departed for the gas chambers of Treblinka (itself worthy of a day trip, if only to peruse the small museum and wander the forlorn outdoor memorial). The one synagogue that survived (Twarda 6) is the center of local Jewish life, while the innovative Polin museum covers all aspects of this nation’s Jewish history. More old school in style, the Jewish Historical Institute often hosts thought provoking exhibitions linked to the wartime suffering of the Jewish population.

COMMUNISM

A full tour of Stalin’s Palace of Culture is essential: the basements (protected from rodents by a team of feline guardians) are intriguing and the top-floor viewing terrace unimpeachable. Explore the more ambient side to Communism in the Neon Museum and then head across town to check the the Czar PRL Museum (czarprl.pl). A warm and eccentric look at daily life under Communism, this fantastic museum is firmly enshrined as one of Warsaw’s quirkiest attractions.

MODERN WARSAW

Wonder amid romping children and whirring machines inside the Copernicus Science Centre and after, visit the university library to explore the stunning, cosmic rooftop garden.

The Museum of Modern Art is a short walk away whilst across the water, the state-of-the-art National Stadium conducts regular tours and thrills both stadium geeks and football fans alike.

In the Old Town area, the Museum of Illusions promises a surrealistic dose of fun for all ages.

ART

Serious art lovers flock to the National Museum for its determined presentation of art through the ages – reserve time for their brilliantly retro Gallery of Polish Design. The Zachęta, the Modern Art Museum and CSW are more alternative with captivating exhibitions that excite non-conformists. And keep your eyes peeled outside: some of the city’s best art is found on its walls – the Praga district is especially celebrated for its large format wall murals.

PEOPLE

The shadow of Chopin, the city’s favorite son, looms large across Warsaw: the museum dedicated to his memory amazes by the breadth of its scope and the nearby Royal Route often tinkles to the sound of Chopin-inspired interactive, musical benches. Onto other local greats and the Marie Curie Museum in New Town does a sterling job of remembering the world’s most famous female scientist.

Every Mon at 19:30, Pl. Konesera

We wtorki o 17:00, Plac Konesera

Open Air Cinema On Art

DIY workshops for children and adults in the Przerób–My Creative Zone

“Koneser”

06.07.2020

“The Great Beauty”

13.07.2020

“Dalida."

20.07.2020

“A Serious Man”

27.07.2020

“Loving Vincent”

03.08.2020

“Rio, I love you”

10.08.2020

“Before Midnight”

17.08.2020

“Broken Embraces”

24.08.2020

“Pavarotti”

31.08.2020

Eco-bottle workshops*

07.07.2020

Beach bags & banners

14.07.2020

Colorful pots & bottles*

21 .07.2020

Wooden candlesticks

28.07.2020

Holiday lanterns *

04.08.2020

Forests in a jar

11.08.2020

Balloons *

18.08.2020

Wreathes from old jeans

25.08.2020 * dla dzieci

Ever Weds at 19:00, Pl. Konesera

Every Sat at 11:00, Pl. Konesera

Open Air Cinema Films On A Plate

Garage Sales Every Sat between 11 and 6 you have the chance

“The Lunch Box”

08.07.2020

“Noma: My Perfect Storm”

15.07.2020

“In Defense of Food”

22.07.2020

“Chef Flynn”

29.07.2020

“Knife Skills”

05.08.2020

Every Thurs at 17:30, Pl. Konesera

Open Air Theater From Och-Teatr & Teatr Polonia

to uncover something extraordinary at our weekly garage sale: head to the stalls and breathe new life into forgotten objects!

“All Natural: Women Who Make Organic Wine”

12.08.2020

“The Turkish Way”

19.08.2020

“Chef's Diaries: Scotland”

26.08.2020

Every weekend at Pl. Konesera

Theater & Triki Tashka Creative Zone 04.07.2020

Triki Tashka 14:00-16:00

Workshops and games: “Tales About Patryk’s Hair” 05.07.2020

Triki Tashka 14:00-16:00 Triki Tashka 11:00-12:30 Theater Stage 16:00

Performance of Misha & Grisha Save The World Daily

„Związek otwarty”

16.07.2020

„Czerwony Kapturek” *

23.07.2020

„Jaś i Małgosia” *

30.07.2020

„Lament”

13.08.2020

„2 000 000 kroków”

20.08.2020

patronat cyklu

27.08.2020 * for children

Performance of Dago and LO at the Kamishibai Theater 26.07.2020

09.07.2020

„Flamenco namiętnie”

Interactive performance of Bal z Akim 12.07.2020

02.07.2020

„2 000 000 kroków”

Theater Stage 17:00

Performance from Teatr Guliwer 11.07.2020

„Starość jest piękna”

Pl. Konesera 12:00–17:00

Every Tues at 18:00, Pl. Konesera

W soboty o 12:00, Plac Konesera

Special Guests At Dom ze Sztuką

Meetings At The Grill

Guests inc. singer Czesław Mozil,

Head to the Koneser Grill for

wrestler Andrzej Supron and the

free grilling tips, cooking demos,

founder of the OTTO Cabaret,

workshops and wine pairings. For

Wiesław Tupaczewski.

more info, see: koneser.eu

Creative Zone

Every Sun at 10:00, Butelkownia

Daily from noon, Pl. Konesera

Zoo Zone

Adventure Warsaw Zone

Swing by each Sunday for animal photographs, dog training classes, educational

Adventure Warsaw invite you to partake in courtyard games, weekend tournaments and city-related games. Visit also for sightseeing

workshops and games based on natural science!

trips and a mini-exhibition from the Museum of Life Under Communism.

/Centrum Praskie Koneser

Sat July 4, Plac Konesera

Every Fri at 19:00, Pl. Konesera

The Golden Age of Motoring

Chopin Recitals

/CentrumPraskieKoneser

W każdy piątek począwszy od 10 lipca, From July 10, find hourly Chopin recitals from 7 p.m. onwards. Peformers inc. Joanna Ławrynowicz, Marek Bracha and Maciej Wota.

/centrum_praskie_koneser

For the second time visitors to Koneser will be able to view a series of vehicles produced in Warsaw before the war.

/koneser.eu

PRAGA / PARKING FROM UL. BIAŁASTOCKA / ENTRY FROM UL. ZĄBKOWSKA & BIAŁOSTOCKA 24/7, FIRST HOUR FREE Program is subject to change. *coming soon.

THE MAGNIFICENT SEVEN!

Warsaw’s rich history and cultural significance has left it with no shortage of museums to visit. Offering a well-rounded view of the city’s past and present, these are the seven you just shouldn’t miss…

N AT I O N A L M U S E U M Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars. That’s reason enough for many, but for others the museum’s ace card was revealed at the end of 2017 with the opening of the Gallery of Polish Design. Offering a full 360 view of Polish 20th century applied arts, it’s an aesthetic joy featuring everything from iconic PRL era wall units and tulip chairs to kitschy toys and gizmos.

Frankly, it’s stunning. Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl T H E WA R SAW R I S I N G M U S E U M When it comes to the definitive story of the insurgency, the Warsaw Rising Museum leaves no stone unturned. If the throngs and sheer informational overload can often be daunting, it remains the most important museum in the capital, and quite arguably the country. Points of interest are rife and include a life-size replica of a B-24 Liberator plane as well as a claustrophobic ‘sewage tunnel’ through which visitors squeeze to get an idea of the kind of conditions combatants once faced. But it’s not the A-list sights that make the biggest impact, rather the smaller, highly personal curios: a pair of wedding bands forged from bullets; an Omega watch, it’s hands frozen at the same moment a bomb killed its owner; and a lucky cuddly mascot made from a German overcoat. Of course, the aftermath is also covered in heartrending detail and concludes with a 3D film that takes viewers swooping over the smoldering ruins of the capital. ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl MUSEUM OF LIFE UNDER COMMUNISM A deeply personal insight into the former system by allowing visitors to view what Communism meant to the everyday person. Here, rifle and rummage through a room mocked-up to resemble a typical household apartment, watch propaganda films, peer inside a phone box, paw at vintage keep-fit gear or covet the ladies fashions of the time. Detailed in its captions, witty in its presentation and comprehensive in its content, it is a place where normal items such as aftershave bottles, postcards, clothing and crude household appliances are allowed to shine on a totem and tell their own story. A haven of trinkets and collectibles, its small size belies its utter magic. ul. Piękna 28/34, mzprl.pl

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FRYDERYK CHOPIN MUSEUM

M U S E U M O F WA R SAW

The 18th century Ostrogski Palace is the perfect foil for the ultra-modern content of this multi-sensory space.

The personal items are captivating (his death mask, gifts from his muse, etc.), but the big victory here is the museum’s ability to suck visitors right back into the times of Chopin through the use of interactive sights and sounds. ul. Okólnik 1, chopin.museum

Reprised as a maze-like treasure filled trove glimmering with curiosities, thousands of objects have been gathered here to detail the story of Warsaw in a non-linear style that can at times feel overwhelming.

Peculiar souvenirs, scale models, old postcards and recovered works of art all combine with a mass of trivia to leave visitors boggled with knowledge. The vertiginous views of the Rynek below are worth the admission alone. Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42, muzeumwarszawy.pl

NEON MUSEUM

Playing a key role in the government’s attempts to fuse socialist ideology with consumerism, the campaign to ‘neon-ize’ Poland saw gloomy cities still bearing the scars of war boldly gleam once more under lights designed and produced by many of the leading artisans of the time. Salvaged from the scrapheap (in many instances, literally), this museum houses several dozen neons that once lit up the capital and beyond. Beautiful in every respect, these renovated signs make for Warsaw’s coolest attraction: Instagram them now! ul.

Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org

POLIN

Composed of eight galleries, this architectural marvel covers different stages of local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day. Highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec synagogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical inter-war Jewish Warsaw street. That it was named the European Museum of the Year in 2016 such much for its ambitions to focus on more than the Holocaust alone. ul.

Anielewicza 6, polin.pl

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MUSEUMS Dollhouse Museum Intricate, dainty and delicate in their beauty, these are not the tacky Barbie houses one imagines, rather spectacular creations that are a paean to craftsmanship. Pl. Defilad 1 (PKiN), muzeumdomkow.pl

Ethnographic Museum A visual pleasure that showcases colorful costumes, fabrics and ceramics from Poland and beyond. And those assuming an ethnographic museums lack punch are in for a surprise: exhibitions are brilliant in their scope, wit and quirkiness and have included explorations of the Disco Polo genre, Hungarian erotica, iconic streetwear, etc.ul.

Kredytowa 1, ethnomuseum.pl

The Heritage Interpretation Center This small venue tells the complex story of Old Town’s reconstruction: if the first section about Warsaw’s physical elimination is poignant, then the others do a fabulous job of sharing the optimism and alacrity that followed. ul.

Brzozowa 11-13, mhw.pl

Jewish Historical Institute Officially opened in 1947 the Jewish Historical Institute was created to serve as an archive of Jewish culture in Warsaw. It contains artwork, historical artifacts and important documents from the city’s rich Jewish past. ul.

Tłomackie 3/5, jhi.pl

Katyń Museum This museum commemorates the murder of 21,000 Polish officers by the Soviets in the spring of 1940.

Beyond its quite staggering architectural merit, the museum has done a stunning job of collecting and presenting artifacts relating to the

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slaughter. ul. Jeziorańskiego 4, muzeumkatynskie.pl

pavement traders. ul. Targowa

Marie Skłodowska-Curie Museum Reopened after a significant re-haul, this museum celebrates the groundbreaking scientist that discovered polonium. The Curie-osities include lab equipment, her trademark black dress and even her nail file. ul. Freta 16,

Palmiry National Memorial Museum An excellent multimedia exhibition set next to a cemetery holding the graves of 1,700 Poles executed in the first years of Nazi occupation.

The museum tells their forgotten story as well as that of the siege and subsequent occupation of Warsaw. Palmiry,

en.muzeum-msc.pl

50/52, muzeumwarszawy.pl

palmiry.mhw.pl

Miniature Park Magnificently detailed 1:25 scale models of Warsaw’s vanished, pre-war architectural treasures make this a stand-out little secret. Here, landmarks such as Saski Palace, the ‘summer theater’ and Żelazna Brama have been lovingly brought back from the dead in astonishing fashion. ul.

Krakowskie Przedmieście 66

Pawiak What was once a Tsarist prison assumed a doubly sinister function under the Nazis.

Some 100,000 Polish political prisoners were held here, 37,000 of which were executed on-site. Split in two sections, cells are found on one side, while on the other the full story of the invasion and occupation. ul. Dzielna 24/26

Polish Vodka Museum The Polish Vodka Museum features five thematic rooms that do a slick and entertaining job of documenting the national tipple. Highpoints number a smart collection of salvaged bottles and an interactive room in which visitors learn can test their knowledge on a quiz machine and strap on some trippy goggles to experience the effects of being completely sloshed. Pl. Konesera 1, muzeumpolskiejwodki.pl

Museum of Praga The Praga Museum tells the story of the area with such charm and simplicity that it manages to leave an unlikely impression that’s as punchy as that of the big institutions.

Star billing goes to a restored Jewish prayer room and the Flying Carpet: an exhibit festooned with various trinkets and treasures once available for purchase from local

The Royal Castle in Warsaw Highlights include the lavishly restored 18th century royal apartments with 22 paintings

by Canaletto, the Senators’ Chamber in which the Consti-

tution of the Third of May was signed, the biggest collection of oriental rugs in Europe and two remarkable Rembrandt paintings. Pl. Zamkowy 4, zamek-krolewski.pl

Train Museum Inside, find 200 scale models of locomotives and steam engines, some beautifully detailed model villages and all kinds of train related ephemera: clocks, timetables, uniforms, etc. Outside is where the real anoraks head though, namely to clamber over fifty trains and carriages in various stages of life.. ul. Towarowa 3, stacjamuzeum.pl

EXPERIENCES Copernicus Science Centre Zillions of interactive exhibits allow visitors to experience an earthquake, walk on the moon, look at the world through the eyes of a snake and discover if your partner’s a good liar – and that’s the tip of the iceberg. ul.

Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20

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AGS WARSAW SP. Z O.O. T. +48 22 702 10 72 E. manager-warsaw@agsmovers.com

www.ags-globalsolutions.com

Warsaw’s Fotoplastikon generates 3D perspectives from a set of 2D images: visitors peer through an eyepiece and are taken on a trip around the world while music from days yore parps away in the background. Al. Jerozolimskie 51, fotoplastikonwarszawski.pl

World Of Illusion Become a giant, enter a vortex, count infinite reflections or color your shadow. These treats and more await inside the World Of Illusion, a mad experience that isn’t unlike climbing into a Salvador Dali painting. Contradicting the very laws of physics, expect a trippy hour of extreme optical illusions and mind-bending fun. Rynek Starego Miasto 17/21, museumworldofillusion.com

Pinball Station An unruly riot of beeps and flashes and jolly jingles, Pinball Station presents fifty plus machines from the pre-digital age. Can you touch them? Yes, yes and yes! For a flat rate of zł. 30, visitors can spend as much time as they have testing their skills on classics such as Dirty Harry, Buck Rogers and Revenge From Mars. ul. Kolejowa 8A,

in Poland – and even if not, just creeping around the corridors of this baroque castle is a thrill in itself. ul.

the works of Miriam Cahn. ul.

Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 22, artmuseum.pl

Jazdów 2, u-jazdowski.pl

Salon Akademii This gallery presents and promotes contemporary art and artists associated with the Academy of Fine Arts in Warsaw. Individual and group exhibitions feature both Polish and foreign artists. Pl. Konesera

Dom Spotkań z Historią The History Meeting House wins points for small but frequently excellent exhibitions that cover topics such as ‘rebuilding Warsaw’ and ‘Socialist Realist architecture.’ ul. Karowa 20,

GALLERIES

dsh.waw.pl

Center of Contemporary Art (CSW) Though their message stands to get a little more conservative with the recent appointment of a new director, its likely this will remain one of the leading gallery spaces

Museum on the Vistula Previously used to temporarily house Berlin’s Kunsthalle, this riverfront pavilion has seen a number of edgy contemporary exhibitions including, most recently, one dedicated to

10, salonakademii.asp.waw.pl

Zachęta National Art Gallery Regarded as one of Poland’s most prestigious galleries, the Zachęta has a busy program of temporary exhibitions that frequently showcase some of the biggest names in domestic and international contemporary art. Pl. Małachowskiego 3, zacheta.art.pl

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LEARNING warsaw montessori family

Casa dei Bambini

SUMMER SCHOOL

preschools American School of Warsaw Students aged 3-5 are encouraged to try new things, ask questions, and take risks in a nurturing environment in which they learn life skills alongside academics. Following the Primary Years Programme (PYP), our young students become caring, active participants in a lifelong journey of learning. Contact

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British Primary School of Wilanow A values-driven school EN offering a world-class education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS). Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9.

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admissions@aswarsaw.

Please email admissions@bswilanow.org to organise a visit.

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Age: 1-6 years old

When: June 29 – August 14 seven weeks

Where: Casa dei Bambini

The British School Early Years Centre The British School provides EYFS classes from Pre-nursery (age 30 months) to Reception (5 years old).

Children develop quickly and their Early Years practitioners aim to do all they can to help your child have the best possible start in life and become a lifelong learner. ul. Dąbrowskiego 84 (Early Years

admissions are international students.

The dedicated, IB-trained teachers deliver an innovative program (PYP) in English designed for modern world needs. The program offers a combination of Literacy, Maths, Social Studies, Science, Physical Education, Art, Music & Rhythmics, French and Polish classes. ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, canadian-school.pl

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations) Casa dei Bambini and Toddler School have three green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 12 months to 6 years of age. ul. Badowska 19, ul. Tatrzańska 5a (Mokotów), ul. Szkolna 16, (Izabelin), tel. 692 099 134, wmf.edu.pl

International Trilingual School of Warsaw Established in 1994, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fill-immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul.

Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/saint-exupery.pl

Centre), tel. 22 646 7777 , thebritishschool.pl

Badowska 19

behind Sielecka 52

Information & registration: Kinga Chmiel

+ 48 692 099 134

office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl

www.wmf.edu.pl

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The Canadian School of Warsaw Preschool Welcoming students from the ages of 2.5 to 6 years old, currently 45% of their

The English Playhouse The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów. The pre-school

follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old. For more info or to arrange a tour call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email: jnowak@ theenglishplayhouse.com ul. Pływiańska 14a, tel. 22 843 9370, tep.edu.pl

Maple Tree Montessori Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, mapletreemontessori.pl

Montessori Stepping Stones An intimate, international, English-speaking preschool located in Powsin that follows the Montessori philosophy which emphasizes the individuality of each child. Children from the ages of 1.5-years-old to 6-years-old are welcome, with the school’s goals aimed at facilitating the individual development of the child, both physical and mental, through a system that is focused on the spontaneous use of the human intellect. ul. Przyczółkowa 140, tel. 728 939 582, montessoristeppingstones.pl

Trilingual Pre-school and Nursery “Three Languages” Center The only trilingual pre-school and nursery teaching English, Spanish and Polish through total language immersion. All educators are native speaker

pre-school teachers. The comprehensive curriculum follows American, Spanish and Polish curriculum standards. The pre-school was awarded European Language Label in 2012. ul. Karowa 14/16 lok 6 (3-6 year olds); ul. Cicha 5 lok 1 (1-2 year olds), tel. 517 872 682, 3languages.pl

schools American School of Warsaw With over 50 nationalities, ASW has been welcoming students from around the world since 1953. As an IB Continuum school, our students follow the PYP, MYP and DP throughout their learner journey. These programmes develop inquiring, knowledgeable and caring young people who are motivated to succeed.

They are inspired by our highly qualified and international teaching staff. Students graduate with either the IB diploma or

The pursuit

of excellence We promise to support your child to love learning and achieve more than they ever thought possible.

www.thebritishschool.pl

Please email admissions@thebritishschool.pl or call (0048) 22 842 32 81 ext. 125 to arrange a tour

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an American high school diploma. All programs are conducted in English, with integrated EAL support for non-native speakers. Contact: admissions@aswarsaw. org or 22 702 85 00, ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), aswarsaw.org

British Primary School of Wilanow A values-driven school offering a world-class education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS). Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9.

and a well-established International Baccalaureate (IB) Diploma Program. ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, thebritishschool.pl

The English Primary The English Primary is designed specifically for children in the primary education ages, just as children experience in England but in an international community. Pupils are taken through the key learning stages so that they can achieve to the best of their ability through a fun learning experience. The Core Curriculum subjects include English, Phonics, Science, Mathematics, French, PE and Swimming, Music, Personal, Social and Health Education. ul.

Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 784 037 808, tep.edu.pl

Please email admissions@bswilanow.org to organise a visit.

The British School Premium international school established in 1992 by Nord Anglia Education.

The curriculum is designed to provide the highest academic quality of education. They follow the English National Curriculum, adapted to the needs of their international student community: from Primary through to the Secondary Key Stages to the IGCSE examinations

The Canadian School of Warsaw International Elementary and Middle School Located on two campuses in the Mokotów this is the only authorized IB School with PYP programs taught in English and Polish.

French is taught as a third language.

Offers a wide range of extra activities, a summer school, and employs a full time psychologist. Provision is made for additional Polish and English support. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives

Accepting applications for Nursery to Year 9 bsw.com.pl +48 221 110 062 ul. Hlonda 12, Warsaw admissions@bswilanow.org

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create the perfect learning environment. ul. Bełska 7, tel. 692 411 573 / 885 420 044, secretary@canadian-school.pl or secretary. olimpijska@canadian-school.pl

International Trilingual School of Warsaw Established in 1994, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fill-immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French.

Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul.

Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/ saint-exupery.pl

Monnet International School Located in Mokotów, the Monnett is the only school in Poland that implements the International Baccalaureate Program from kindergarten level all the way through to secondary school. The fully-qualified staff are committed to delivering only the highest standards of education. ul. Stępińska 13, tel. 22 852 06 08, maturamiedzynarodowa.pl

Warsaw Montessori School A leader in the field of Montessori education, well-trained teachers guide students to independent and successful learning with both English and bilingual classroom provided.

Located just steps from Łazienki Park the school resides in vibrant surroundings near to museums, embassies and natural settings which provide students with learning outside the classroom. ul.

Szwoleżerów 4 (grades 0-4), tel. 608 488 420, wmf.edu.pl

school continues to meet the principles of Maria Montessori through implementing the IB Diploma Program principles and practices. Warsaw Montessori High School is an authorized IB World School for the Diploma Programme – code 061201. ul. Pytlasińskiego 13A, tel. 787 095

Klub Dialogu Outstanding programs for foreigners living in Poland: a variety of courses aimed at every level. Using over ten years of experience, the leaning process becomes an adventure at Klub Dialogu. ul. Ordynacka 13/5,

835, wmf.edu.pl

klubdialogu.pl

Willy Brandt Schule Warschau One of the city’s best renowned schools offers a kindergarten as well as primary and secondary education conducted to a German curriculum. Św. Urszuli

books

Ledóchowskiej 3, wbs.pl

Fundacja Bęc Zmiana A small curiosity shop selling trendy trinkets and a fair amount of art and architecture books with an accent on modern Warsaw. ul. Mokotowska 65/7,

Warsaw Montessori Middle School Guided by trained specialists, students are responsible for managing their household, operating small businesses, caring for local flora and fauna as well as domesticated animals, taking charge of the younger children and much more. “Adolescence Program” activities, integrated with academic studies, help students discover their inner strength to meet real life challenges. ul. Tatrzańska 5A

adult learning

beczmiana.pl

Cup of Polish Personalized Polish classes adapted to meet your needs. Also home/company visits and online courses. For a free 60-minute trial email: kontakt@cupofpolish.com.

Księgarnia Bullerbyn A supremely cheerful bookstore peddling everything from pop-up books and fairytales to history and legends. The ace up their sleeve is a sizeable selection of English-language literature: and that includes The Gruffalo! ul. Chmielna 10,

(grades 5-8), tel. 604 137 826, wmf.edu.pl

cupofpolish.com

bullerbyn.com.pl

Warsaw Montessori High School Warsaw Montessori High School aims to teach students the values which Maria Montessori outlined in her educational philosophy such as: responsibility for one’s own development, care for others, honesty, empathy, and service. The

Frog Acclaimed language school aimed at all levels of competency. Flexible schedules and a history of working with foreigners make it one of the ‘go to’ choices for new arrivals wanting to polish their Polish. ul.

Moda Na Czytanie Some brilliant Warsaw-focused coffee table books, as well a half-decent collection of Englishlanguage books that range from classics to contemporary fiction. ul.

Mazowiecka 12/24, frog.org.pl

Bracka 25

monnet international school

PADDINGTON BEAR KINDERGARTEN

IB World School no 001483

's ton B g n i d LU Pad EN'S C EN LDR CHI OW OP N

Education for a better world

Belwederska 6a, Warsaw

www.maturamiedzynarodowa.pl/przedszkole warsawinsider.pl

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spas & salons

names making their first in-roads into the world of high fashion. ul. Mokotowska 26, lui-store.com

Creamy Creamy Creative Cosmetics offering a wide range of cosmetics which are based mainly on the deeply nourishing Haitian Moringa Oil. Created by Zofia Pinchinat-Witucka, a Haitian-Pole whose life goal has been to bring the two countries closer, Creamy’s cosmetics are vegan and cruelty-free and do not contain any synthetic dyes nor fragrances, petroleum components, sulphates or silicones. ul. Chmielna 6 (Warsaw), creamy.pl

Fifth Avenue Originating in Dublin, Fifth Avenue specialize in luxurious facials, waxing, massages and treatments for the hands and feet. Using a range of OPI varnishes and creams specially created for them in Germany, they’ve become synonymous with top-class treatments. ul. Mokotowska 49, fifthavenuewarszawa.pl

fashion Balthazar An atelier, boutique and private tailor with several unique brands. Book your meeting by calling tel. 535 545 728. Al. Rzeczypospolitej 18/68, balthazar.pl

Just Paul Exuding confident femininity, this energetic brand is characterized by its light and unobtrusive elegance and sense of effortless nonchalance. Founded in 2012 by designers Justyna and Paula, Just Paul seeks to address the needs of the modern woman with its line in chic but casual clothing and more dazzly evening wear. ul. Mokotowska 61, justpaul.pl Lui Store Elegant female fashion store with brands including Attico, Rixo London, 3.1 Philip Lim, Les Coyottes de Paris, Jonathan Simkhai, as well as lesser-known

Moliera 2 Boutique Brands: Alexnadre Birman, Alexandre Vauthier, Aquazzura, Balmain, Beach Bunny, Burberry, Buscemi, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Cult Gaia, Francesco Russo, Gianvito Rossi, Golden Goose, Herve Leger, Isabel Marant, Kenzo, Maison Michel, Marc Jacobs, Manolo Blahnik, Moncler, OneTeaspoon, Self-Portrait, Tod’s, Tory Burch, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon, Zimmermann. ul. Moliera 2, moliera2.com

Pan Tu Nie Stal Polish design at its peak: fashion is prominent, but there’s also interesting bitsy things such as aprons, jam jars, notebooks and mugs – all with a defiantly Polish twist. Eccentric, unusual and emphatically on-trend, it’s a must-visit.

Koszykowa 35/40, pantuniestal.com

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Brands: Beach Bunny, Buscemi, Canada Goose, Casadei, Christian Louboutin Men, Dsquared2, Fay, Gianvito Rossi, Hogan, Kenzo, Moncler, Mr & Mrs Italy, OTS, Ralph Lauren, Tod’s, Tom Ford, Tory Burch, Valentino, Yves Salomon. Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, plactrzechkrzyzy.com

Reykjavik District Chic, well-cut menswear for all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal. ul. Burakowska 15, reykjavikdistrict.com

Risk. Made In Warsaw Mixing modern shapes with expert tailoring, the idea was to create a look that’s both comfortable yet chic. That they’ve been featured in the likes of Vogue and Elle suggests that this target has been accomplished. ul. Szpitalna 9, riskmadeinwarsaw.com

Sabotage Those in-the-know know Sabotage as one of the places to buy funky

deconstructed denim and sportswear pieces. Here you’ll find a wide array of unique clothes, hats, belts and handbags in a variety of fabrics and styles that hail straight from New York, London and Tokyo. ul. Burakowska 5/7 Safripsti Formerly a make-up artist in London and Paris, owner Magdalena returned to Poland to open a vintage boutique.

Buying wholesale – meaning prices are kept in check – her fashion store presents finds like authentic cheerleader outfits and Hawaiian shirts for summer. ul. Oleandrów 3

Snobissimo Top labels from design houses like Jimmy Choo, Sonia Rykiel, Les Copains, Sergio Rossi etc., etc. With shoes and accessories all provided for, it’s a one-stop shop to re-boot your wardrobe. ul. Mokotowska 28

The Odder Side From small beginnings The Odder Side have grown from a cult brand to one of the most influential labels on the domestic fashion market. Few do a better job when it comes to making simple sexy. ul. Koszykowa 5, theodderside.pl

Wake Up The Bear Stylish ‘travel practical’ clothes as designed by the acclaimed Viola Spiechowicz. Featuring natural fabrics and multipurpose add-ons, this is the ultimate in comfort clothes. ul.

Mokotowska 41, wakeupthebear.com

Wearso.organic If you love extravagant forms and monochromes this is the place is for you.

Designers use only natural materials.

Aside from clothes and fashion accessories you’ll also find several items for home. ul. Boya- Żeleńskiego 2, wearso.com Zaremba Originally inspired by the Savile Row style, Zaremba have been fitting out gentlemen of Warsaw since 1898. Under Maciej Zaremba, the brand has moved forward to take into account global trends while also respecting its past. ul.

Nowogrodzka 15, zaremba-krawiec.pl

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Stadion Narodowy

1

3

2

1

2

Chodk iewicza

Biały K amień

Ĺťaryna

Kulskiego

3

Moving?

Also immigration assistance, fine art shipping, pet transport and consulting services. ul. Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 8160, moveonerelo.com

MANY HAPPY RETURNS! Seventy-one this July, raise a

glass for Warsaw’s Trasa W-Z…

T

he wholesale destruction of Warsaw afforded architects the unique opportunity to rebuild what had hitherto been a dense, dark city and remodel it in their own futuristic (albeit party-approved) vision. Rising to the challenge with gusto, of all the early schemes the W-Z highway was among the more high profile of the post-war ‘corrections’ that followed. Linking Wola with Praga, the 6.7

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kilometer highway ingeniously took road traffic away from the previously congested Old Town by sending it through a tunnel carved under Pl. Zamkowy, before carrying it onwards over the new Śląsko-Dąbrowski bridge (so named to commemorate the miners and steelworkers from Silesia and the Dąbrowa region that contributed to the capital’s revival).

Considered pioneering in its modernity, the implementation of the entire engineering project saw 8,000 workers remove over a million cubic meters of earth, and while Zygmunt’s Column was shifted six meters north, the entire construction saw the permanent loss of only one historic object – the Tepper Palace. This, however, was nearly joined by St. Anne’s Church. Having made it through the war with just token flesh wounds, the structure came within a whisker of tumbling down after work on the tunnel rendered the surrounding ground unstable – only round-the-clock work by a team of 400 engineers saved the whole thing from collapsing.

With disaster narrowly averted, Trasa W-Z was officially christened on July 22nd, 1949, just two years after work first began. Attracting thousands of cheering onlookers, the ceremonial ribboncutting was conducted by President Bolesław Bierut who used the moment to wax lyrical about Warsaw’s heroic rebirth. In fact, such was the occasion that it was soon immortalized by the invention of the Wuzetka cake: a chocolate sponge layered with lashings of whipped cream. Still eagerly devoured to this day, it has since become a staple in every domestic sweet shop.

NAC

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