Warsaw Insider January 2020 #281

The Capital’s Original City Magazine Since 1996

JANUARY 2020

281 01/2020

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AQUAZZURA ALEXANDRE BIRMAN BALMAIN BURBERRY BUSCEMI CASADEI CANADA GOOSE CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN CULT GAIA FRANCESCO RUSSO GIANVITO ROSSI HERVE LEGER ISABEL MARANT KENZO KIINI MAISON MICHEL MANOLO BLAHNIK MARC JACOBS ONETEASPOON SELF-PORTRAIT TOD’S TORY BURCH VICTORIA BECKHAM YVES SALOMON PARIS ZIMMERMANN

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editorial INFRONT

Editor-in-chief Alex Webber

5 City Rotunda 8 Literature Olga Tokarczuk 10 Music Czesław Niemen

insider@warsawinsider.pl Art Director Kevin Demaria insider@warsawinsider.pl Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com Contributors: Michał Miszkurka Ed Wight

FEATURES

12 Photography Snapper of the year!

16 Architecture Looking ahead 12 Food Vegan Revolution

Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com ey Account Manager K Aleksandra Seweryn aseweryn@valkea.com ey Account Manager K Karolina Zielonka kzielonka@valkea.com

EAT!

33 First Bite:

Mamma Marietta 34 Openings

New in town 35 Review: Charlotte Bouillon 36 Review: Bombaj Masala Praga 37 Review: Koneser Grill

JANUARY 2020

I

DRINK! 61 First Sips:

Koko & Roy 62 Trends

Plants in Bars

t’s been described as the hardest month of all, January, the hard-edged brutality of winter combining with the postholiday reality to sink the city into collective despondency.

But peering through the sad, smoggy skies, there’s much to look forward to, which is why this issue we’ve chosen to gaze into the future and present the bold architectural projects that stand to transform the city in the months and years ahead. Back to the now, we’ve placed the city’s vegan revolution under the microscope, loitered into the new look Rotunda, popped champagne to salute Nobel Prize winner Olga Tokarczuk and hit the depths of Białołęka to reveal the story behind Warsaw’s latest mural. And that’s on top of your traditional serving of bars, restaurants and all things nice – hope you enjoy it, and see ya’ in Feb!

Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com

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DISCOVER

Royal Garden of Light 76 Museums 80 Events 81 Essentials 94 Map 96 Looking Back Goodbye Czarny Kot

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Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl on the cover On the cover: bundled up against the frost, there's few better sights in winter than Wilanów's Garden of Light. See p. 75. (Illustration by Michał Miszkurka)

VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies. All information ©2020 Warsaw Insider.

PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT

75 Review:

BURBERRY CANADA GOOSE CASADEI CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN MEN FAY GIANVITO ROSSI KENZO MONCLER MR & MRS ITALY ONETEASPOON RALPH LAUREN TOD’S TORY BURCH BURBERRY CHILDREN DSQUARED2 KIDS KENZO KIDS MONCLER KIDS

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 tel.: +48 226221416, www.PlacTrzechKrzyzy.com

in the

NEWS

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

CIT Y

Look Who’s Back!

Hailed as one of the finest examples of post-war modernism in the capital, the PKO Rotunda is once again open following a controversial two-year project aimed at granting the landmark a new lease of life… warsawinsider.pl

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IN FRONT 1966

Aware of the dehumanizing proportions of the Palace of Culture, the government rubberstamps plans for the Eastern Wall, a bold architectural project that sees Marszałkowska reconstructed to include tall residential blocks and a string of department stores. Mooring this urban investment is the PKO Rotunda, a circular bank building that soon becomes a favorite meeting point on account of its ground zero location. Whilst work on many of the other elements lags until 1970, the Rotunda is unmasked to great fanfare and applause in 1966. In a city still scarred and limping from the war, the Eastern Wall – and in particular the Rotunda – becomes an emblem of rebirth.

1979 The Rotunda returns to the front pages on February 15th after an explosion rips through the building

leaving 49 dead and 135 injured – at the time, this is the largest disaster to effect post-war Poland. An investigation blames the blast squarely on a gas leak, but rumors soon gather pace that embezzling bank officials planted a bomb to throw the police off their scent. “Although the work and competence of the committee seemed quite genuine,” writes historian Jerzy Majewski, “the people of Warsaw, guided by their long-time experience that the authorities were ‘always lying’, did not quite believe the official report.”

In all, it takes six-days to clear the debris and work to rebuild the Rotunda is conducted at breakneck speed.

Reopening in October, complete with a memorial honoring those that died, the hasty rebuilding job lacks much of the finesse of the original and, among other things, sees the previously translucent windows replaced with tinted surfaces.

2017

Deprived of its original gloss and splendor, and looking increasingly aged and decrepit, the decision is made to give the Rotunda a full revamp. Not everyone is happy with city activists expressing fears that the city stands to swap an iconic pearl of modernism in favor of a cheap imitation. Others, though, argue that with so much of the Rotunda devastated in the 1979 disaster, only an outright rebuilding effort can restore it to its past glory. In all, 214 projects are submitted by 1,000 architects from 79 countries, with Kraków-based studio Gowin-Siuto chosen over the rest of the pack.

2019 Gowin-Siuto’s vision of “a modern urban lounge” receives criticism (from us included!) when

scaffolds are first removed to reveal a structure that looks more like a shower tub than the Rotunda we all know and love. But come the end of November – and the official unveiling – enough has been done to convince the critics of a job well done. Featuring an eco-minded design based around a 500-ton steel skeleton, the revised version of the Rotunda includes 17,000 plants and numerous multifunctional spaces open to the public. With suspicions allayed, it’s quickly judged to be a prime example of revitalization gone right.

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IN FRONT LITERATURE

The Write Stuff

P

olish author Olga Tokarczuk picked up her 2018 Nobel Prize for literature in December, accepting her award in Stockholm at a ceremony conducted by King Carl XVI Gustaf of Sweden. Known for Flights and Drive Your Plow Over the Bones of the Dead, the writer became the fifteenth woman to scoop the literary prize (and second Polish woman) and has already pledged to use her zł.

350,000 cheque to establish a foundation promoting Polish arts and culture, human rights and environmental initiatives.

In their announcement, the adjudication panel cited the 57-year-old essayist “for her narrative imagination that

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with encyclopedic passion represents the crossing of boundaries as a form of life.”

Born in Sulechów, she embarked on a literary career only after graduating in psychology from the University of Warsaw and originally taking work as a therapist. First published in 1989, her international reputation has grown rapidly in the last few years and 2018 also saw her bag the Man Booker Prize for Flights.

Originally postponed due to a scandal affecting the adjudication committee, Tokarczuk’s acceptance of her 2018 Nobel prize took place a year later than planned but proved well worth the wait.

She now joins the ranks of Henryk Sienkiewicz, Władysław

Reymont, Isaac Bashevis Singer, Czesław Miłosz and Wisława Szymborska as the fifth Polish writer to be recognized by the Nobel institution.

Arriving back in Warsaw on Flight No. Nobel 18, her plane was greeted with a spectacular water salute.

Not everyone, however, has seen her triumph as a cause for celebration. Writing on twitter, PiS politician Arkadiusz Mularczyk criticized the Swedes for failing to use the occasion to apologize for the so-called Swedish Deluge, Sweden’s 17th century rampage around the Polish-Lithuanian commonwealth – it appears he was not joking.

PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEXANDER WMAHMOUD

Finally accepting her 2018 Noble Prize for literature, December saw Olga Tokarczuk become the fifth Pole to receive such an honor.

GURU REDEFINES

MODERN INDIAN CUISINE

Our focus from the start has been to create modern Indian dishes and drinks, served in a relaxed space. We combine local seasonal ingredients with the authentic flavors, aromas and spices of India and the orient.

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MUSIC

Time For Heroes

A new mural celebrates the accomplishments of music legend Czesław Niemen…

R

evered as one of Poland’s greatest cultural icons of modern times, musician Czesław Niemen has been honored in his adopted city with a striking new mural celebrating his landmark album, Dziwny jest ten świat (The World Is Strange).

Released in 1966, it shifted an estimated 150,000 copies,

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and in the process became the first Polish record to hit gold.

Now, courtesy of artist Bruno Althamer, Niemen’s contribution to Polish musical history has been remembered via a captivating piece of wall art on ul. Płytowa 14.

Though deep in the suburbs of Białołęka, the location was purposefully selected for two reasons: first, explained the artist, because Płytowa translates to mean ‘disc’. Further, it was this industrial suburb that heavily inspired Niemen to write one of his best-known ballads, Sen o Warszawie (Dream About Warsaw).

“It was there, by the Żerański Canal, that large factories produced huge building panels destined for the new housing

estates of Warsaw,” says Althamer, “so it was there that the image of today’s city – the Warsaw dream – was originally realized.”

Anthemic to this day, since 2004 – the year of Niemen’s death – the song has been sung prior to each Legia Warsaw home match with hair razing passion and, much like Niemen’s other works, continues to enjoy regular airplay on radio channels through the country.

Born in 1939 in Stare Wasiliszki, Niemen first found fame playing in student unions around Poland before reaching the next level with a band named Niebiesko-Czarni. It was during a whistle-stop international tour with this group that he abandoned his natural surname, Wydrzycki, in favour of the more pronounceable Niemen. His star was rising, and in 1964 he was chosen to open for Marlene Dietrich when she performed in the Palace of Culture – so taken was she by the bard, that she later covered one of the songs that he had written.

With the swinging sixties plunging the world into an era of unprecedented social turmoil, Niemen was able to emerge in his own right, and it was his acceptance of Western styles, trends and sounds that made him a figurehead of the Polish avant garde. Poetic in his lyrics, experimental in his music and maverick by his very nature, he captured the zeitgeist in a way no other Polish artist was capable of. Depicting Niemen in his extravagant 60sera finery – and with a pair of gold records taking the place of his eyes – it is this trippy world that Althamer summons in his glorious XL painting.

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

IN FRONT

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PHOTOGRAPHS CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT; ED WIGHT, COURTESY OF (2)

Photographer Of The Year!

Of the hundreds of submissions we receive each year to our Facebook (fb.com/warsawinsider), none have stood out in the same way as the magnificent KG-airview. With the door closed on 2019, we celebrate the work of the Insider’s Photographer of the Year‌

warsawinsider.pl

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GAME OF DRONES Who hasn’t wanted a God’s eye view of the world below. Taking viewers into a different dimension and offering them an

almost mystical perspective from high above, throughout the year the drone images of KG-airview have provided a captivating glimpse of both Warsaw and beyond. Often exhilarating and ethereal, his are photographs that intrigue and compel in boundless measure. For more, give a follow to: fb.com/kgairview

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warsawinsider.pl

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The Excitement‌ BUILDS

New year, new beginnings! With the calendar flipped to 2020, join us in looking forward to the striking developments that stand to transform the city in the coming years ahead‌

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VARSO PLACE No project better demonstrates Warsaw’s towering ambition than Varso Place: comprised of three

buildings in all, star billing has automatically been given to the Varso Tower element, a 53-storey behemoth whose height of 310-meters will install it as the tallest building in the EU. Designed by the architectural firm Foster + Partners, it will boast one of the largest co-working spaces in Europe and utilize the latest energy efficient technology. Beyond the corporate babble, the developer, HB Reavis, have declared that the skyscraper will tout two observation decks and a three-floor restaurant at the top. Some seventy-meters taller than the Palace of Culture, should all go as planned (and why wouldn’t it, this is Warsaw!) HB Reavis hope to cut the ribbon at some stage in 2021.

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ARCHITECTURE

KAMIENICA KRONGOLDA Opened in 1899, the fate of Kamienica Krongolda on Złota 83 has long been the subject of rumor with

many activists openly suspecting that it had been allowed to purposefully degrade so that it could be knocked down and replaced with a money-spinning skyscraper. But not so! Work is underway to revive it as a swanky apartment block, thereby rescuing it from decades of neglect. Having squeezed through the war with just token scratches, the following years saw its hitherto ample spaces divided into 120 smaller dwellings and then packed with out-of-towners – at one stage, such was the overcrowding that residents took to calling it Beijing. Fondly remembered for inspiring a cult soap opera based upon the lives of those inside, the historic tenement – defined by the allegorical stone figures that adorn its exterior – could return by 2022.

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TOWAROWA 22 Though far further off in terms of time – in fact, at least five or six years from being realized – Towarowa 22 has

snapped the public to attention for its bold reimagining of this swathe of Wola. Taking the Dom Słowa Polskiego printing house as its gravitational point – a plant that, at its peak, was printing over 510 million newspapers per annum – the project envisions the full revamp of this faded modernist jewel as well as the construction of a surrounding “archipelago of inter-connected gardens and public spaces.” Designed by Bjarke Engels (credited with New York’s Two World Trade Center as well as Google HQs in LA and London), the 230,000 sq/m scheme will keep culture in mind courtesy of a Museum of Print, theater and a cinema facility capable of hosting major premiers and film festivals.

Naturally, neither will diners be overlooked, with the plan seeing a chunk of Wronia street covered with a glass ceiling before being transformed into a social-minded avenue lined with bars and restaurants.

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ARCHITECTURE

POLISH ARMY MUSEUM Currently housed in a building that’s all doom and gloom,

the Polish Army Museum is another cultural institution that will finally benefit from uprooting to a purpose-built facility in the Citadel complex. And wouldn’t you guess, behind it all is the WXCA studio: “All the elements of the new complex containing the Polish Army Museum have been designed to co-jointly form a captivating narrative detailing Polish military history,” they say. “The spatial design has been specially created for the museum, while the light and shadows that play on the facade will uniquely sculpt and shape the raw walls making every visit to the Citadel an unforgettable aesthetic experience no matter what the time of year.” Its opening has tentatively been penciled for next year.

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MUSEUM OF POLISH HISTORY We won’t be seeing this museum in the flesh till next year at the earliest, but the wait guarantees itself

to be worthwhile. Located within the footprint of the Citadel, an estimated half a million visitors are forecast to visit each year with the architects – Warsaw’s WXCA studio – confident that it will become one of the most modern museums on the continent. Describing it as “a place for multidimensional contact with Polish history,” the building’s architecture will be specifically tailored to foster a sense of freedom – the watchword of the museum.

So say WXCA: “The large windows on the exhibition floor and the glazed openings between the ground floor blocks that extend into a network of interrelated spaces within the interiors will be the materialization of the concept of openness; they speak of discoveries, of multidimensional approaches to history, of the freedom of choice, and of creating personal narrations.”

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ARCHITECTURE

ELEKTROWNIA POWIŚLE If you know your 80s films then, not all that long back, you might have found similarities between

Elektrownia Powiśle and the deathtrap factory that features towards the climax of Robocop. Built in 1904, this giant plant fed Warsaw with power for a largely unbroken stint of 97-years. Explained by the war, the break in service came only during the 1944 Uprising when insurgents battled it out with the Germans for ultimate control of this strategic target.

Deactivated and abandoned in 2001, the vacated warren of buildings subsequently became the home of giant house martens and other mythical urban beasts, though today the complex stands again on the verge of greatness. Luxury loft-style apartments, a boutique hotel and thousands of meters of office space are all in the pipeline, as well as a retail / service area touting a ‘beauty hall’, prestigious stores and top-class restaurants. Already, media megastar Kuba Wojewódzki has opened one such F&B space here, and if rumors are correct his project will find itself complimented by an ambitious 450 sq/m restaurant led by Mateusz Gessler. But what really excites us? That’s the launch of a mega-sized donut emporium. According to the latest timeline, the grand opening of Elektrownia should occur later in Spring.

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BOHEMA Formerly viewed as a nest of villainy

and poverty, the upcoming suburb of Praga is set to take another running jump down the path towards redemption with this year’s opening of Bohema, a 4.3 hectare premises kitted out with approximately 900 apartments, exhibition spaces, an outdoor theater and co-working spaces. Formed around a factory that once kept communist Poland supplied with hairspray, deodorant and antimosquito chemicals, the focal point will undoubtedly be a soaring redbrick chimney around which the management hope to create “a new heart of Praga”. Buoyed by the completion of the nearby Szwedzka metro station, take-up has been high stoking belief that this once-maligned district is ready to emerge from the shadows and fulfill its true potential.

BROWARY WARSZAWSKIE Founded in 1846, Haberbusch &

Schiele were once one of 40 breweries that kept Warsaw merry, their beery operations conducted in the vast works plopped between Grzybowska and Chłodna. Having found a suitor in the shape of Echo Investment, the plot has been subject to rigorous work over the last five years and while much of the area has been given over to new build, the investor has been keen to retain as many of the historic elements as possible: an 1890s malthouse, the villa in which the brewery owners once resided, not to mention the brewery’s 170-year-old cellars.

Introduced with the aim of reintegrating the 4.4 hectare site into Warsaw’s urban fabric, the plot will feature 16,000 sq/m of civic space that will include public gardens and green squares.

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ARCHITECTURE

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VISTULA BOULEVARDS It was no exaggeration when the previous

Mayor, Hanna Gronkiewicz-Waltz, called the Wisła’s left bank one of the greatest riverfront boulevards in Europe. In the long-run, however, it stands to get even better thanks to plans to remodel the section between Most Świętokrzyski Bridge and Port Czerniakowski.

“The design concept will seek to bring the city closer to the riverfront by creating varied-function facilities with easily accessible ground-floor services, creating the perfect backdrop for the riverfront gardens,” say WXCA, the architectural studio charged with the design of the project. “The facilities in this garden belt will incorporate a food pavilion and urban roof that will allow the riverfront recreational season to be extended, and the greenery structure, meanwhile, will emphasize the natural elements of this green urban oasis along its entire length.”

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ARCHITECTURE

FABRYKA NORBLIN For decades the 19th century Norblin Factory produced internationally renowned silverware before

switching its focus to top-quality ammunition. Emptied when the bottom fell out of Poland’s economy in 1981, it was granted a brief lease of life in the decade just gone when the BioBazar – Poland’s bestknown farmers’ market – started operating inside its decrepit collection of buildings. This legendary eco market (now temporarily relocated to Mokotów) will return to its spiritual home next year once work to resuscitate Norblin is finished, making good on the investor’s promise to place ‘slow retail’ on a pedestal. Having pledged to keep the historical integrity of the complex intact, a museum telling the story of the site’s previous life is also in the pipeline.

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FOKSAL 13/15 On the residential front, Foksal 13/15

will become the envy of all when work is finalized in the next couple of months.

Dating from 1898, this extraordinary pair of tenements came under the ownership of Jan Wedel (the Polish Willy Wonka) during the inter-war years, and whilst the chocolate magnate’s guardianship saw the addition of the city’s first glass elevator, it also witnessed widespread modifications that led to the removal of many of the original details.

Under the watchful eye of Ghelamco, these have been painstakingly restored by a team of distinguished artists and sculptors. Lavished with love, anticipate interiors thick with hand-forged balustrades and historic polychromes of dancing cherubs. Leaving no detail overlooked, the internal arrangements of Eric Kuster (whose client list numbers Alicia Keys and Zinedine Zidane) complete the picture of unfathomable indulgence.

If you’re ready to shell out between zł.

25,000 and zł. 40,000 per square meter, then you too can enjoy the luxury within.

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FOOD TRENDS

Make it VEGAN Warsaw rises to sixth in the vegan world rankings, and this could be just the veganinning…

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I

ncreasingly renowned for the depth of its vegan offer, Warsaw’s plant-based scene found itself again making headlines after being named the sixth best in the world following on from the latest findings reported

by HappyCow. Widely lauded as the globe’s leading portal for all things vegan, HappyCow’s rankings saw the Polish capital rise one place from last year to lag only behind London, New York, Berlin, LA and Toronto.

Speaking to the Insider, Ken Spector, a principal of HappyCow, revealed that of the many reasons Warsaw scored so highly, its overall food quality had left a particular impression on the HappyCow team: “among other criteria,” he says, “we base our top ten list on the food quality of each city, and Warsaw is international-class. I speak around the world, and when I am asked where my favorite place to travel as a vegan is, I often recommend Warsaw because of the easy access to so many vegan options; simply put, the city has great variety as well as delicious and affordable food.”

First appearing on HappyCow’s radar in 2014, Spector recalls how a sudden rash of recommendations to the portal prompted the American-based team to extend their European tour to include the Polish capital. Even so, he readily admits that arriving to Poland it was with his expectations set low, not least because of the number of natives that had warned him about the country’s meatslanted culture. Having prepared for the worst, he was dumbfounded by what he encountered.

“Warsaw’s food quality was spectacular from the moment I arrived in the city,” he states, “and I noticed that unlike most other cities I had traveled to, the majority of Warsaw’s vegan restaurants were within about three square kilometers. As a long-time vegan, it was exciting to be able to walk around on foot and check out so many vegan spots – in fact, I’ll never forget my vegan adventures in the city.”

Further fact-finding trips have followed since, with Spector quick to point out not just the continued growth in quality that he has observed, but also the increasing diversity offered by the town’s scene: “it really is a vegan paradise,” he says. As if to affirm this, HappyCow’s report does not shy from heaping praise on the city’s other vegan ventures, among them the vegan shoe store Ananas, the

As a city that has traditionally moved fast to embrace wider global trends, it is natural to anticipate more developments on the domestic vegan front Evergreen and TerraVege vegan grocery shops, the Solvino Bio wine store, and the city’s two vegan nail salons, Salon Wisła and Nailed It. As a city that has traditionally moved fast to embrace wider global trends, it is natural to anticipate more developments on the domestic vegan front and, in fact, many such fashions have already been adopted. “Vegan meat and cheese substitutes are just beginning to take off,” says Spector, “I was in Poland a few months ago, and I saw the Beyond Burger at Krowarzywa and other restaurants there. The world’s biggest food chains have added vegan burgers, chicken nuggets and other menu items, and even McDonald’s are testing vegan burgers in restaurants around the world.”

Questioned on what other developments lie in store, Spector is emphatic that substitutes stand to become more convincing than ever before. “We are about to see a number of companies releasing more believable vegan seafood products,” he says, “further, I’ve recently tried extraordinarily delicious vegan ice cream from a company called Perfect Day, and I believe this firm, and brands like it producing vegan and genetically identical dairy proteins, are going to release items over the up and coming years that are certain to create many more vegans.”

The excitement does not stop there, and across the world more and more eateries are making the switch to go fully vegan. “In Beverly Hills the other day I ate at Ladurée, a French luxury bakery created in 1862,” says Spector, “they recently went completely vegan, and I am seeing more examples of restaurants converting their menus to vegan due to modern food technologies.” Already seen as a dynamically progressive vegan city, it seems just a matter of time till such a situation finds itself replicated in Warsaw. >>> warsawinsider.pl

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FOOD TRENDS

Hugely diverse in choice, the Insider slashes through Warsaw’s fifty plus vegan hangouts to bring you the sixteen eateries you just can’t miss…

Eden ul. Jakubowska 16 This inter-war townhouse feels intriguing and discreet, its crowning glory provided by an all-year greenhouse cluttered with herbs and pot plants.

Inside, step inside a super cool world that looks arty and avant-garde. On the menu: organic wines, new wave coffees, and food that runs from sea buckthorn laksa and Korean-style curry to tacos served with avocado tempura.

Edamame Vegan Sushi ul. Wilcza 11 Sushi without its star ingredient sounds ridiculous, but this vegan sushi joint manages to out-maneuver its traditional competitors by replacing below-par fish with fresh, vegetarian produce: sugar snap peas, radish, carrots, asparagus, etc. In HappyCow’s rankings, it scores the highest of the lot.

Falafelove ul. Senatorska 40 Cramped, sweaty and uncomfortable, Falafelove’s customers choose to overlook the aesthetic shortcomings for one very special reason: this is falafel that sets a new benchmark. Recommended is the spicy wrap, comprising of ‘red falafel’, humus, harissa, sundried tomatoes and tahini. If there’s space, join the others on the terrace outside.

Falla ul. Oboźna 9 Both pricing and location combine to keep this venue blocked solid with a muddled mass of students from the uni nearby. Looking simple, maybe even spartan, crowds flock to this corner unit for recipes inspired by the Middle East and Asia: huge wraps tightly packed with pungent kimchi; generous pans brimming with shakshouka; and an array of hummus in unfamiliar forms – chipotle, coriander, carrot and more.

Krowarzywa ul. Marszałkowska 27/35, ul. Hoża 29/31 and Hala Gwardii, krowarzywa.pl Tatts, hats and plaid shirts aplenty in Krowarzywa: a survivor of the hipster era, for many it’s the epitome of Warsaw’s vegan scene. The burgers set a benchmark that all but a few can surpass.

Kuchnia Konfliktu ul. Wilcza 60 First founded to provide work for refugees fleeing conflict zones, this social project has won acclaim not just for social initiative, but also for its food.

With employees hailing from the likes of Iran, Afghanistan, Chechnya and Iraq, prepare to dive deep into the exotic.

Leonardo Verde ul. Poznańska 13 Geometric patterns, plant arrangements and the large format illustrative artwork of Dominique A. Faryno decorate Leonardo Verde, an upmarket – but inexpensive – Italian joint. Pizza is the forte, and you’ll see why after ordering the ‘hot romantic’.

Lokal Vegan Bistro ul. Krucza 23/31 Aside from a small menu consisting of standard vegan offers, this stalwart keeps Homer Simpson characters in mind with regular guest slots for ‘junk food’ that’s given a full vegan makeover.

Offhand, that’s meant vegan kebabs, cheesesteaks, burgers and zapiekanka, all of which have been pretty darn fabulous.

UKI GREEN

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Momencik ul. Poznańska 16 Steamy, tight and sweaty, this pokey

PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE BY KEVIN DEMARIA, OPPOSITE PAGE FACEBOOK

Sweet Sixteen

subterranean cavern has one key credit to its name: burritos that outrank the majority of ‘proper Mexicans’ in town.

The salsas, too, are magnificent (ooh, pineapple).

Praska ul. Brzeska 23 Marketed as a ‘ruin bar’, the interior has to be seen to be believed: crazy local art, twinkling fairy lights, cuddly toys, bits of corrugated iron and a jungle of plants combine to create an extraordinary atmosphere that’s topped out nicely by fab vegan food, beers from the Brooklyn Brewery and an open-minded staff that love to have a chat.

Tel Aviv ul. Poznanska 11 A major icebreaker in terms of Poland’s vegan revolution, Tel Aviv woo with a super-funky, design that evokes the spirit of the Israeli capital through its raw finishes and street art motif. The food is a bonanza of Middle Eastern tastes and has, in the past, been wolfed down by passing members of Depeche Mode.

Veg Deli ul. Radna 14 An entrance beset with candles, plant pots and seasonal veg charms people in, and they tend to stay on to dine on creative vegetarian options that nearly always hit the spot. The Russian pierogi an absolute highlight and so too the seasonal burgers.

Vegan Ramen Shop ul. Finlandzka 12A & ul. Kazimierzowska 22 Prior to opening the management traveled Asia to track down the best ramen joints before heading back to Poland and trying to ‘veganize’ what they saw. Woah. These complex bowls of restorative goodness have been described as ‘world class’ by HappyCow, and this they are. Enjoy your noodles inside cool interiors filled with cute Japanese props on dozens of ‘levitating shelves’.

Vege Małpa ul. Poznańska 3 & Racławicka 7 A hipster era design (monkey wallpaper, cheerful street art, retro fittings and cheeky, offbeat touches) is set against

V E G E M A Ł PA

a menu that presents X-rated food porn at its filthy best. The meat-free kebabs and kimchi mad-dogs sell well, but it’s the burgers that make the news. The Smurf-colored Big Blue is a towering wonder of gooey ingredients and the final word in junky pleasure.

Uki Green ul. Koszykowa 49A Brought to you by Taira Matsuki, the owner of the outrageously successful Uki Uki, the menu includes alternatives such as kimchi-cheese gyoza dumplings, spiced soy meat and ‘vegan eel’. The real plaudits, however, are reserved for the ramen. Tag yourself up in an interior that’s big on Japanese wood joints and concrete finishes.

Y O U M I KO

K U C H N I A KO N F L I K T U

Youmiko Vegan Sushi ul. Hoża 62 Exceptional in every respect, Youmiko’s tasting menu is one of the undisputed highlights of what’s become known as the vegan square mile. “Our aim,” declares their manifesto, “is to mix traditional Japanese approaches with Polish creativity and surprise you with new textures and flavors.” Mission accomplished. warsawinsider.pl

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FOOD • DRINKS • NIGHTLIFE FRIDAY & SATURDAY RES TAU RA N T 19:00-23:00

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T THE BESFOOD AN AMERICARS AW IN W Brooklyn House is THE destination for best burgers, hot-dogs and steaks in the heart of Warsaw. Being a truly American joint, we’re extremely proud of our meats and selection of cocktails and beers. Brooklyn is a cool, hip and relaxed place where you and your friends can chill. It is especially known for its top atmosphere during all sports events which you can watch on our numerous screens. You think burgers and steaks – head straight to Brooklyn by ONZ roundabout.

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PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

First Bite

THE ITALIAN JOB

An authentic slice of little Italy awaits at Mamma Marietta…

>>

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EAT! News

Mamma Marietta ul. Górnośląska 24, fb.com/MammaMarietta

OPENINGS WÓŁ NA STÓŁ

MEAT YOU THERE?

Warsaw’s vegan boom has been matched step-for-step by the city’s voracious appetite for red meat. Of the more notable openings have been Meatologia (Al. Rzeczpospolitej 18), a deli-restaurant crossover in Miasteczko Wilanów; the urbanelooking Wołowino (Krucza 16/22); and the quite excellent (and excellently priced) Wół na Stół (Piękna 28/34). Already well-established in Łódź, Poznań and Wrocław, Whisky In The Jar – famed for their 800 gram Tomahawk – are further set to expand the city’s steak choices by opening on Pl. Konstytucji anytime soon.

ON THE BALL

Excitement around the Browary Warszawskie development has been ratcheted to max with news that football icon Robert Lewandowski will open a restaurant inside the complex along with two business partners. Slated to debut at the end of 2020, the 1,300 sq/m project will be set across four floors and feature a horde of sporting memorabilia donated by the Bayern Munich striker. Approximately thirty bars and restaurants are forecast to open within the former brewery’s confines including a craft microbrewery from the Ukrainian Kumpel group.

FROM THE STREETS

Marketing themselves as a wellness deli, Sabich (Wyzwolenia 13) have reimagined Middle Eastern street eats through a vegan lens with quite delicious results. A fun, sociable space, touchdown in this eatery to feast your way through a menu involving seitan shawarma boxes, Yemeni soup loaded with lentils and veg, ready-to-go shakshouka boxes, and Israelistyle sabich sandwiches rammed with avocado, eggplant, potatoes and mango mayo – all squished inside a pita or baguette. Whoever invented that combo, come forth to receive your medal.

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PHOTOGRAPHS CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: COURTEST OF WOŁOWINO, KEVIN DEMARIA (3)

S

ome would call it vibrant, others cosmopolitan – both descriptions would do just fine. Stylistically removed from its previous location in the deepest recesses of Mokotów, Mamma Marietta’s new address offers a form that’s bright, engaging and always energetic. Room One: dazzling whites and an open kitchen patrolled with vigor by chef Andrea Scarantino. Room Two: darker, a little more moody and whispery for dates. Both are places in which you’re happy to idle – in a city choked in seasonal gloom, rely on Marietta to offer a radiant chink of light.

This it does in more ways than one. The interior aside, the general ambiance is helped along nicely by, in the Insider’s case, the kind of server for whom you quickly develop feelings of infatuation. And that’s all before the food arrives: beautiful bruschetta hiding under a coat of ricotta cheese and Sicilian cherry tomatoes as red as lipstick; and a Tuscan tomato soup that’s lavishly thick and forceful in taste. There are, as well, diversions such as tagliatelle with wild boar ragout, but you’d be very much mistaken were you not to order pizza. In a city that now touts a handful of options that border something approaching incredible (as opposed to the inedible of not long back), Mamma Marietta sits there with the best. And comfortably so.

Averaging at around zł. 30 (yep, that’s cheaper than the standard high street chain), these are works of wonder on which Scarantino isn’t shy on pressing his Italian identity. Imported ingredients such as Italian flour, San Marzano tomatoes and San Daniele DOP ham figure largely throughout, with highlights emerging in the shape of the quite awesome Beddra (mascarpone cheese, flourishes of ham and generous pinches of tomatoes) to the fiery Etna, a concoction of spicy Soppressata dry salami and chili peppers. Eating here, you know you’re somewhere special.

EAT! Review

WAKING UP WITH CHARLOTTE Charlotte’s latest venture comes under scrutiny in the Insider’s enduring quest to find Warsaw’s top breakfast…

W

hen Charlotte first opened in 2011 it hit Warsaw like a cyclone: connecting ambiance with artisanal quality, it became a sensation in the space of three seconds. With its freshly baked produce, effortless French style and signature communal table, no other place could touch it for hype. Everyone loved it. And love it they still do, so much so that a fleet of sister ventures have blossomed to form a mini chaînette.

The latest? Charlotte Bouillon, a buzzy venue in the former Communist Party HQ.

A Sense of Place

You know you’re in a Charlotte straight from the off: does it have the communal table? Yes sir! And is it busy? Packed.

Charlotte excel at making the least likeliest space feel urbane and dynamic, and though modestly decorated (rouge banquettes plus lots of woods and whiteness), the ambiance feels right: plenty of smart, chattering people inside a place that throbs with the reassuring sound of lively café bustle. Taking a perch by the window, it’s a good mood that washes over you.

And A Sense of Waste?

If you consider breakfast the most important meal of the day, then Charlotte may disappoint. Taking the premium zł.

26 option, we’re awarded a basket of sliced bread with a croissant for company. The latter, soft and flaky, is a high point, yet one sadly lost amid much mediocrity. Those anticipating piping warm bread find anything but. More startling, the fried egg is already cold by the time it’s on the table. It stares glumly from the plate as if asking for love that it shall never receive.

Likewise, the preserves, strawberry jam and lavenderhoney, are also more miss than hit. They look great in those big Winnie the Pooh jars, but not after they’ve been handled by dozens upon dozens of other clumsy paws. Moments in, and the Insider is already covered in sticky slime – it’s just an idea, but couldn’t smaller pots nullify this problem?

And then there’s the issue of the photographer’s croque madame. “Might be wrong here,” he shrugs, “but it tastes like they’ve just reheated yesterday’s unsold offer.”

There’s a possibility we’ve hit them on an off-day, and with its rock solid concept, fabulous atmosphere, reasonable price points and iconic reputation, there are many things that Charlotte should be applauded for. It seems that breakfast, however, is not one of those. Leaving, it’s with an overwhelming sense of… meh.

Charlotte Bouillon ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, bistrocharlotte.pl

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EAT! review

THE HEAT IS ON!

T

here comes a point when even the Insider – curry lovers that we are – says enough is enough. With the number of Indian restaurants reaching almost epidemic proportions, the backlash has begun against crappy side street eateries offering the same boring choices cooked to the same humdrum levels.

Fortunately, exceptions exist: we saw that with the debut of Guru the other year, and now we’ve seen hope anew with Bombaj Masala Praga. Is it good?

No it’s even better.

Wait, Haven’t I Heard Of Them Before?

You sure have. First starting out as a steamy little den off Puławska around ten years back, Bombaj Masala stopped mucking around at the lower end of the spectrum yonks ago with the launch of a city center venue on Jana Pawła II. Upmarket in aesthetics, this mothership has long been a

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standard bearer for higher quality curry. With that in mind, the launch of an outpost in Praga has been eagerly awaited.

Is It Worth Crossing Town?

Damn right it is. If you think you’ve seen it all in their parent restaurant (not to mention their Mokotów venture), then we’re here to say that you most certainly haven’t. Ensconced inside the confines of the postindustrial Koneser factory, it’s a feast for the eyes with 1,760 copper pipes hanging from the ceiling to generate a warming glow that mixes naturally with the brick finishes and spirited works of art.

Enough Of That, What About The Food…

And that’s where it gets really good.

Different from their other restaurants (and every other of Warsaw’s seven zillion Indian restaurants), find glori-

ously presented street food-style tapas such as flat-fried Kachori dumplings and crispy cauliflower pakoras to outstanding tandoori dishes like marinated zander with garlic chili sauce.

And when you want it hot, the Kerala lamb curry comes with the capacity to challenge all the senses as it sends you into sniffles of unbridled joy. With even prosaic dishes like chicken tikka masala cooked to sublime levels of excellence, it’s everything you demand from an Indian restaurant. Though missing some obvious dishes (no vindaloo! And where’s the Madras!?), these omissions simply sway diners down unexpected paths that invariably richly reward. Make no mistake, this is five star brilliance from the very start to the finish.

Bombaj Masala Praga ul. Ząbkowska 29 (Centrum Praskie Koneser), bombajmasala.pl/praga

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA, OPPOSITE PAGE COURTESY OF KONESER GRILL

The competition to find Warsaw’s top Indian heats up with the arrival of Bombaj Masala Praga…

EAT! review

SMOKIN’ HOT Warsaw finds a new lord of the grill…

Where Am I?

The heart of Praga, which, in today’s terms, means the historic Koneser vodka factory. One of the most striking urban renewal projects in recent memory has seen a 19th century industrial complex handed new life with a swank program of redevelopment that’s seen it revived as a mixed-use project featuring flashy flats, funky offices and no shortage of food and drink outlets. Of these, the newly opened Koneser Grill feels like the final part of the jigsaw. In line with its surroundings, the interior opens out to present a space that feels industrial at its core but not short on smart, chic details: smooth lighting, blond woods, metal fixtures and outbreaks of rich teal colors.

What Am I Eating?

As the firewood stacked under the kitchen counter suggests, fire is central to the concept with the menu little more than a full-blooded foray into carnivorous worlds.

Starting with beautifully composed drinks (in our case, Polish whisky sour) and an array of home-baked breads, ours was an experience involving a delicate mushroom broth followed by a glorious heap of roast beef lashed in pepper sauce and assorted veg – balanced and thoughtful yet also brimming with the warming taste of home, it’s easy to think of it as a modernized version of a British roast dinner (a fine thing indeed).

Picking winners, however, is easy when dealing with a menu featuring saddle of lamb aged for 28-days, ribeye dry-aged for 65-days and US Black Angus. Away from the meaty business, finer things are celebrated by way of sophisticated dishes such as quail Scotch eggs, grilled Fine de Claire oysters and grilled octopus served with duck hearts. As for happy endings, this visit – the first of surely many – found itself peaking out with a pineapple tarte tatin with a scoop of cardamom ice cream: not just good, but stonkingly brilliant.

Who Do I Thank?

You’ve probably heard of Daniel Pawełek, and if you haven’t, then give your head a wobble. As the founder of the Ferment F&B group, few people have revolutionized Warsaw’s eating habits in quite the same way. Responsible for de-formalizing the restaurant experience whilst maintaining top-level standards, his other restaurants (Rozbrat 20, Brasserie Warszawska, Butchery & Wine and Kieliszki Na Hożej and Na Próźnej), are shoe-in entries on any Best Of Warsaw list. Expect Koneser Grill to join them through its intuitive matching of A-list wines, staggering food and overall commitment to service and style. Good work geezer!

Koneser Grill ul. Ząbkowska 29 (Centrum Praskie Koneser), konesergrill.pl

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EAT! Listings

By in large, you can expect to pay between zł. 20-35 for starters, and zł.

35-70 for mains. Expect those prices to double in the case of the city’s fine dining venues. Those wishing to cut costs should seek out the weekday business lunch deals now offered by most restaurants. When tipping, 10-20% is considered polite though be aware of automatic service charges in some venues.

onions and a lash of sriracha aioli) are bold, unexpected and utterly delicious.

Fun, innovative and pleasingly casual, it’s a bit like visiting friends who really know how to cook. Take it all in inside a brill interior that’s all Sputnik lights, intriguing artwork and mustard-toned finishes. (D5) ul. Wilcza 43, kokoandroywarsaw.com

bakeries american 38 bakeries 38 balkan 38 chinese 38 comfort food 38 desserts 40 fine dining 41 food halls & happenings 46 french 42 georgian 43 greek & turkish 43 hungarian 43 indian 44 international 45 italian 50 japanese 51 jewish 52 korean 52 latin & spanish 52 mexican 52 middle eastern 53 polish 54 russian & ukrainian 59 scandinavian 60 seafood 60 steak houses 60 thai 60 vietnamese 60

Aromat That many consider this their favorite bakery says it all. French flour and an expert baker ensure brilliant results, while the lemon éclairs deserve their own Facebook page. (C4) ul. Sienna 39, fb.com/ piekarnia.aromat Charlotte While the fancy crowd isn’t to everyone’s liking, the atmosphere feels truly continental: even more so in warm weather when the terrace packs out. Al. Wyzwolenia 18 (enter from pl. Zbawiciela) & Pl. Gryzbowski 2, bistrocharlotte.com Rano The rise of Stalowa street is to be taken seriously, and the existence of Rano is one rather good reason. Looking – and smelling – like you’d imagine an artisanal bakery to be, the standard is such that a number of the city’s top restaurants have begun ordering from here. You will as well. ul. Stalowa 47

sophisticated hand has not, however, been to the detriment of taste. Of the favorites, the swordfish steak, lamb goulash and beef plejskavica sell particularly well. It feels all the more complete with a rakija or three. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 47 (entry from ul. Koszykowa 53), nabalkany.pl

chinese

Pańska 85 Ample in size, the interiors speak of money well spent. This is especially true because despite the luxury trimmings Pańska looks good without ever losing its dignity. With their kitchen staff headhunted from across China, the food sets a standard that has yet to be seen in any Chinese restaurant in Warsaw: there’s delicate salmon rolls wrapped in mango; dim sum that are pouches of pure goodness; and Sichuan-style pork that’s a blaze of sizzle and spice. The Beijing Duck, carved and served table-side, is the highlight. (B4) ul. Pańska 85, panska85.com

SAM Co-owner Małgorzata Kusina-Doran is a fine-bread connoisseur, honing her skills at a bread-making course chaired

by Raymond Blanc. While SAM have expanded to cover numerous locations, this has not been to the cost of the overall quality. Many locations, sam.info.pl

Regina Bar Taking their inspiration from New York’s Little Italy and Chinatown, the menu at Regina is the very definition of ethnic comfort food: won-ton dumplings, ribs in sticky hoisin sauce and the best-selling General Tso chicken – famed for its healing properties, it’s one of the best hangover remedies around. On the Italian front, leopard-spotted pizzas land are presented with wheel-bladed knives in a kooky, retro interior featuring a dangling chandelier and the tallest mirror in Poland (possibly). (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, fb.com/Reginabar

american

balkan

comfort food

Koko & Roy Spotlighting ‘New American Cuisine’, the thrust here is on comfort food, albeit several steps beyond what you’d rustle up at home: the Odds & Ends (deep fried pigs tails and chicken hearts tumbled into a big bowl and served with pickled red

Na Bałkany This newbie modernizes the Balkan experience in a manner Warsaw’s yet to see: raw, industrial aesthetics meet head on with a menu that adds a delicate finesse to a cuisine better known for its heavy, rustic style. The addition of a light,

Kura Pairing fried chicken with double-fried chunky chips, think of this budget stop as an artisanal take on KFC for the posthipster generation. And best of all, check their homemade sauces: from the tart and spicy Challenger No. 3, to the tangy

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EAT! Listings Mango-BBQ option, these are sauces that open the gateway to addiction. The ultimate definition of comfort food, look on Kura as one of the city’s best examples of street food culture gone right. (B2) ul.

Nowolipki 15, restauracjakura.pl Kur & Wino It’s hard to fault a concept when it’s executed this well. In this case, that means chicken from Podlasie and guineafowl from Wielkopolska cooked rotisserie-style and then served with an array of homemade sauces. And then there’s the sandwiches, beautiful things served on focaccia and smeared with honey mustard. Sure, you could call it street food, but doing so underestimates the level of love awarded to the product.

That you’ll be enjoying it in a cool, funky backdrop makes it all the better: outside, sit amid crates filled with palms, inside, among funky-style furnishings that pair well with the PRL look of this highceilinged chamber. (C1) ul. Andersa 21, fb.com/kurwino Pogromcy Meatów Dude food doesn’t get much better.

Specializing in slow-cooked meats, find artisan buns stuffed with ribs, beef tongue, pastrami and the like before being given extra oomph with locally grown greens, homemade kimchi or house pickles. A savage, primal pleasure of dripping sauce and juicy meat, the

homespun quality of Pogromcy Meatów catapults it above the competition. (E6) ul.

Koszykowa 1 Przyjemność It’s a squeeze alright, with all manner of jiggling and jostling needed before taking your position amid a design that feels cool and millennial: plants, wire mesh panels and a bit of funky neon. Food, and Californian pizza is the order of day, with wacky choices including Gringo Chicken, a wondrous creation that features dollops of sour cream and guacamole thwacked onto heaps of achiote chicken, jalapeno, coriander and red onion. It sounds daft, but it’s become our fave pizza of the year – and the spritzers are damn good as well. (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 68/70, fb.com/ pizzawarszawska

desserts Croccante Resistance is futile: surrender to made-on-site cronut creations such as the Philadelphia (strawberry sauce, white chocolate and cheesecake cream) or the Tropicana (mango & passionfruit cream, a shiny mango coating and Malibu with coconut milk), before forever slipping into a pleasing food coma inside a smart interior of glinting gold colors and soft velvet fabrics. (E5) ul. Żurawia 1A

Kukułka A funky two-level space with monochrome floors, spirally stairs and little blasts of color set against the stark, minimalistic concrete finishes. Widely blogged about, the real reason for the general clamor soon becomes apparent: desserts that lift Warsaw into heavenly directions. Cream puffs are the specialty, but other winners include their brioches, raspberry tarts, blueberry crumbles and whipped cream meringue. ul. Mokotowska 52 Lokal Dela Krem That you can now buy vegan, mojito-flavored cupcakes in Warsaw is an indication of the city’s fanatical commitment to healthy living. A roaring success, the first vegan cake shop in the country has become a local staple. (D5) ul. Hoża 27A Miss Mellow Mixing sophisticated desserts with those that fall more on the filthy food porn side of thigs, Miss Mellow have hit the bull’s eye by offering something for everyone that enjoys the sweeter things in life.

Lauded even by Vogue, find a wicked rundown of toasts, brioches, financiers, brownies, cookies and cakes. Eschewing chemical nasties, it’s a place in which the owners’ commitment towards quality resonates throughout. (D5) ul. Wilcza 62 MOD Warsaw has always loved donuts, but it

Hungarian cuisine, modern interiors and a wine cellar in the very heart of Warsaw

ul. Zgoda 1, tel. 22 828 22 44, www.borpince.com, info@borpince.pl

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EAT! Listings took the arrival of MOD to elevate this humble doughy vice to new levels with a glam New York-inspired makeover. The mango topped donut is our favorite by miles. (D7) ul. Oleandrów 8 Muus Warsaw’s taste for luxury desserts has not waned, but Muus steps into new territory by offering something that feels modern yet also strangely homely.

Caramel brownies, blueberry meringue, cheesecake with yuzu jelly – the list goes on and makes more than fine reading.

At Muus, taste is not sacrificed for show.

What you get dances with the best. (E3) ul.

Tamka 22/24, fb.com/muuswarsaw Warszawski Lukier The home of hardcore food porn. Look for their signature freak shakes: towering treats cascading with calories and color.

Their sister op on Żurawia has more of the same… and ice cream! (E5) ul. Hoża 5/7

fine dining Atelier Amaro If Wojciech Amaro’s eponymous restaurant isn’t the most famous in the country, then it’s certainly the most important.

Awarded Poland’s first Michelin star in 2013, it’s a venue that continues to set the pace in terms of innovation. Changing weekly, his ‘calendar of nature’ seeks to present forgotten ingredients such as little-known berries, herbs and flowers against meats and other ingredients reared or grown at the Atelier farm. One for any bucket list, there are occasions when dining here can feel like an out-of-body experience. Abandoning their original home at the start of 2019, the new location feels a world class venue seemingly designed with a second star in mind. (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 10/14, atelieramaro.pl Amber Room at the Sobański Palace Set in the pre-war Pałac Sobańskich, this pristine manor house is everything you expect: hushed, lavish, cultured and classy. The food fits the backdrop with a contemporary menu often drawing spontaneous outbreaks of collective joy.

Maze-like in its layout, there’s enough nooks and secret rooms to make Amber

Room the ideal address for expense account meetings. (E6) Al. Ujazdowskie 13, amberroom.pl Belvedere Łazienki Królewskie Set in an imperial age glass orangery, it’s festooned with intricate latticework and botanical exotica. The updated interiors are the work of acclaimed set designer Boris Kudlicka, and lend a fresh, contemporary tone that goes hand in hand with the menu. But behind the gels and emulsions and pretty little swirls, this is cooking of substantial depth; it’s cooking that takes you to the very soul of Polish nature. (F6) ul. Agrykoli 1, belvedere.com.pl Chłodna 15 by Wilamowski Gone are the Alice in Wonderland decorations of the previous tenant, La Maison, replaced instead by a muted charcoal look that’s reassuringly refined – for the time you’re here, you forget you’re on the ground floor of a 70s tower block.

Aiding the amnesia is the classic French cooking of Arkadiusz Wilamowski: small and mercurial in its content, the dailychanging menu is a work of preposterous detail. (B3) ul. Chłodna 15, choldna15.pl

CLOSED AT TIME OF PRESS Epoka Preserved 19th century cornices and baroque-style drapes lend an enveloping sense of luxury inside this A-Class space.

Scene of the Insider’s most impressive dining moment of 2019, Epoka’s menu is based on Polish cookbooks from different epochs (hence the name, dummy!), with the dishes reconstructed in a way that’s innovative, unexpected and a roller coaster of thrills. Oh gosh moments include jellied apple compote; a sweet and boozy pumpkin pottage; razor thin chestnut with marinated celeriac; and bigos like no other. You want to pause the evening for at least forever: stars await, and anything less would be a miscarriage of justice. (D2) ul. Ossolińskich 3, epoka. restaurant Europejski Grill The flagship restaurant of the Raffles Europejski has cut no corners in their bid to become one of the city’s top restaurants. A seriously swish interior of pearl white colors is teed-up against contemporary flashes (hexagonal lighting, outsized plates hanging from the wall) warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings and gleaming silverware. Enjoying precisely composed dishes such as beetroot tartar or Dover Sole is a welltailored crowd that expects nothing but the best. (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, raffles.com/warsaw N31 Been there, done it all. That’s Robert Sowa, a national treasure widely hailed for modernizing Poland’s gastronomic sector back in the country’s culinary dark days. A common sight on TV, the chef’s public profile has meant there’s no shortage of bums on seats in his flagship restaurant, but this is more than a chef trading on his past. A chic city center bubble beloved by business types, the food is first class with Sowa’s international travels reflected by surprises such as flawless tuna partnered with kabayaki sauce, yuzu, wasabi dressing and turnip salad. The flavor combinations are exceptional. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 31, n31restaurant.pl Nolita For many diners, there is no bigger night out than one that begins and ends in this enclave of class. Dashing in its monochrome colors and muted gunmetal shades, Nolita is where Warsaw heads to live the life of the 1%. Lacking the magic tricks of some, the

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‘show factor’ might be subdued but the tastes definitely aren’t. Who to credit? Two words: Jacek Grochowina. Cooking with poise and focus, his menu is a marriage of the classic and creative, with core ingredients given unexpected lifts with cunning turns and inspired little twists: maybe some yuzu with the tartare or konbu with the eel. (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, nolita.pl PamPam Large spaces, high ceilings, globe-shaped bulbs and plush rouge furnishings lend a sense of refinement to PamPam, a feeling that’s in line with a sophisticated menu that promises much with elegantly presented dishes such as sea bass with herbal curry sauce and oyster mushrooms. (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 9/11, pampam.com.pl Senses Diners are best advised to leave logic outside. Inspired by the idea of ‘note-bynote’ cooking, Italian-born chef Andrea Camastra isolates and extracts molecules from ingredients to obtain the purest flavors before matching them up with unlikely partners. What unfolds is a dazzling show of near illusory brilliance; the technical proficiency of the kitchen is exceptional and makes the steep prices easier to swallow. Wrap-up the evening with a pungent, edible cigar. (C2) ul.

Bielańska 12, sensesrestaurant.pl

Signature Flirting with fine dining – yet at prices a notch below – the menu is a succession of highs that are a tribute to the sophisticated palate of chef Wojciech Kilian. Adding to the sense of being somewhere special is a setting inside the former inter-war Soviet Embassy. Adorned with original, auction-bought photos of Marilyn, pretty pink colors and luxury fittings, Signature washes over you in waves of bliss. (D5) ul.

Poznańska 15, signaturerestaurant.pl Szóstka Head to Floor 6 of the swank Hotel Warszawa. There lies Szóstka, a long, slick space decorated with steel tubing, bursts of greenery and a coved glass ceiling. But it’s outside where everyone heads, to a sparsely furnished terrace with killer views of the city below. As for the food, drums please for Dariusz Barański, tipped by some as the next Pole headed for a Michelin star. (D4) Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9 (Hotel Warszawa), warszawa.hotel.com.pl

french L’Arc Looking elegant with its black/white floors and subtle decorations bills at

EAT! Listings L’Arc canTom become big number affairs Opasły –The especially you–hanker for seafood. ground if floor all swanky lighting and Pick oysterssoorit’s navyfrom blue numerous seating – istypes oftenofpacked, delve into the fish tank for to theanlobster downstairs you may head intimate of yourmore choosing.

The catchment space reminiscent of the original area extends beyond theon borders location formerly found Foksal:ofhere, Mokotów, justcolors because their ‘fresh it’s about not muted andofreassuring from France’ seafood, but of shadow.

Characterized by because its balanced, classic dishes such Mulard duck and nuanced flavors andasthoughtful combinaBurgundy snails.

(E8)to ul.debut Puławska 16, tions, the first menu at this larc.pl relaunched restaurant sees a medley of dishes you demand to eat again: pumpkin Monsieur Leon and curd dumplings served in a cheese Found onprime the corner of a (D2) quietul. sauce resting being the example. residential Monsieur Leon is Wierzbowa street, 9 surely one of Mokotów’s best kept secrets. Here, simplicity PamPamis the name of the game, with aLarge briefspaces, blackboard highmenu that involves cheese boards, salads ceilings, globe-shaped and a hefty croque monsieur.

With wine bulbs and plush rouge tipping down and conversation furnishings lendwafting a sense around this compact, casuala space, of refinement to PamPam, feelingitthat’s doesn’t takeaasophisticated giant leap of imagination in line with menu that to think yourself in France.

Reopened promises much with elegantly presented after a sabbatical, return is cause dishes such as seaLeon’s bass with herbal curry for celebration.

(E8) ul. Sulkiewicza sauce and oyster mushrooms.

(C5)5ul.

Emilii Plater 9/11, pampam.com.pl

georgian Chmeli Suneli The ‘modern-folk’ interior blends clean colors Pera and exposed brickwork with slanted shelving bright Inspiredtimber by their owner’sand travels to New caricatures Georgian gents: it looks York, Dubai,ofBerlin and Paris, Pera looks just fab. Then there’s the food: served to present a mix of Mediterranean andin clay pots andcourtesy on thick, of wooden Asian tastes Nestorboards, Grajewski the nosh is wholehearted and ideal for – he’s cooked for Scorsese, Diaz and early autumn longfor months Di Caprio, nowand he’sthose cooking you! Al. ahead.

The experience peaks with the Krakowska 248 presentation of the grilled, skewered shashliks. ul. Wilcza 26 Pink Lobster The door clatters shut to divulge a narrow Leo’s spaceMarani of tall palm fronds and marble Launched in July, Leo’s Marani mixes finishes underneath soaring ceilings Georgian Armenian flavors Bursts to that seemand to stretch on forever. present a menu feels slightly more of flamingo pinkthat colors lend a dapper novel the others: example, sensethan of dazzle to this for polished-looking refer toFood lambischops marinated coffee, venue. an upscale work in that, in cognac pomegranate juice.

Other spite of and the Lobster’s name, awards equal success stories involve importance to land and the sea.ArmenianBeautifully caught huge shashlik for plated, trout dishesand that the Insider fellsets for inc. two.

Not all reviews beenexhibition glowing, sea bass ceviche, anhave exquisite but there’s much suggest any of of complex tastesto set down inthat a slash inconsistencies to bepass ironed green on a platestand that could forout a work over time. Early days yet, roe but deer mostand whoa of sculpture.

Immaculate visit end promisingdesserts to return. ul. won series ofup extravagant also Marszałkowska 85 praise. (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, pinklobster.pl

Rusiko Plato To the uninitiated, Georgian food is Conceived as a ‘smart casual’ restaurant, representative of compact the heart,space spirit with and pasit’s a reasonably a sion of itsstyle people; a cuisine that values modern andit’s incandescent bulbs the concept of athe feast: wine, hanging from complex cat’s laughter cradle of and song find wires: themselves to interweaving classyelevated but nothing roles of primary importance.

A food of the too flashy or flamboyant.

Then there’s life, spice and whole-hearted tastes, menu, a strange work that sees Spanish consider Rusiko as the best ambassador influences brushing shoulders next to there for Asian. this surprisingly diverse Polishisand It sounds silly and prekitchen, andbut award-winning chefDecember Davit posterous my God it works.

Turkestanishvili thebeef string-pulling master. saw us wowed by tartar cut from There’s nowhere an else in Poland that does Polish Hereford, aromatic oriental Georgian Al. Ujazdowskie 22 broth, andbetter. a refined halibut encircled with sage pesto, redcurrants and fresh almonds. Stunning. ul. Klimczaka 1 (Royal Wilanow), restauracjaplato.pl

As recommended in the Warsaw Insider's 2019 Best of Warsaw issue!

2019

greek & turkish

Restauracja Warszawska Mr. BEST GreekWAWA Souvlaki 2018 “Newcomer” Enticing with in itssize, cute,the pocket-size dimenHumongous vast spaces and sions, of pot plants blue lack ofarray natural light neverand feelnavy an issue. colors, Greek LoadedMr. with slickbubbles finisheswith andhomespun polished warmth.

The menu a simple work but raw materials, find is this subterranean the quality is outstanding: pitas venue unraveling amid thepillowy giant original wrapped around chicken; foundations that freshly supportgrilled this pre-war skewers of pork; piping pots of‘plates’, skyscraper.

Divided intohot ‘snacks’, moussaka; delicious ‘sides’ and and ‘desserts’, big meatball-style shouts go for the dishes are devoured within moments. goldenthat schnitzel as well as the spicy pork Warsaw hasserved enjoyed Greek food of dumplings in good a vibrant essence before, offer something paprika.but It’snow not ita can big menu, but it doesn’t even A place of authentic hospitalneedbetter. to be: exceptional in every respect, ity fabuloushas food, that this is of a labor thisand restaurant become one foodie of love is manifestly obvious fromUpscalethe Warsaw’s biggest talking points. moment onerarely enters.

Londyńska 16Pl. casual has feltul.this good. (D4) Powstańców Warszawy 9 (Hotel Warszawa), Santorini warszawa.hotel.com.pl Santorini looks scuffed and tired but there’s bonhomie present that instantly Rozbrata 20 engages.

The kitchen no value 2018attaches “Neo-Bistro” BEST WAWA to things presentation, This busylike neo-bistro fusespreferring upmarket, instead to simply treat diners towine pileslist, of casual styling with an exciting grilled and skewered food interactive service and thethat kindconsisof atmotently rightget – enjoying easy. ul. spheretastes you can’t enough itof.isUnder Egipska 7, kregliccy.pl/santorini chef Bartosz Szymczak’s leadership, Rozbrat’s grown to become one of the blogospheres favorite write-ups. Never the same, if there’s a consistent thread to visits then it’s the playful inventiveness that has come to define Szymczak’s cooking. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 20, rozbrat20.com.pl

hungarian

Soul Kitchen Bistro Borpince If the previous venue was all slanted Modernized versions of towards low-pitched business conversaMagyar cuisine tion then thetraditional new one is positively festive come served in surrounds in comparison: scuffed brickwork, tall even more familial bar stools, athat longfeel communal table, etc. given theis100-odd wines from The seasonal menu a pick-and-mix

Le Cedre Lounge Grzybowska 5A Tel 22 299 7299

Le Cedre 61

(opposite the zoo) Al. Solidarności 61, Praga Tel 22 670 1166

Le Cedre 84

(opposite the court) Al. Solidarności 84 Tel 22 618 8999

www.lecedre.pl warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings the various regions of Hungary. (D4) ul.

Zgoda 1, borpince.pl

indian Bollywood Lounge Known for their raucous dusk-till-dawn parties, there is another less hedonistic roll filled by Bollywood: that of a restaurant. The menu is an uncomplicated, classic affair that’s an ideal primer for the party ahead. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, bollywoodlounge.pl Bombaj Masala Not just the best looking of Warsaw’s Indian restaurants, Bombaj Masala also has some of the best cooking. With so many restaurants reliant on one ‘master pot’ for their curry, this classy venue feels unique in delivering a variety of rich, intense tastes. The vindaloo is a special standout, with big, punchy flavors that

leave you tingling long after you leave.

Committed fans should keep in mind their Praga outpost in the Koneser complex, reputed to serve the only ‘Indian tapas’ in the country – we’ll visit soon. (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, bombajmasala.pl Curry Leaf The post-industrial style is diluted by the number of Indian trinkets hanging off the vents and pipes. Owned by the same crew behind the lauded Curry House, you’d be completely correct to assume the same consistency and excellence. ul. Conrada 5

Guru Moving into the space vacated by the lamentable BrewDog pub, Guru joins the city’s (very) shortlist of higher end Indians. The menu is a union of local, seasonal ingredients (organic this,

farmyard that) and imported spices, coming together to blast the competition out of the water. From the openers, the chili chicken fry stands out as a dish that’s all snap and crackle, while of the mains the tikka masala is exceptional in taste.

Plus points for Indian-themed cocktails that really hit the mark. (D4) ul. Widok 8, gururestauracja.pl Rasoi A cheerful neighborhood style prevails in Rasoi, a friendly restaurant whose positive vibe is expressed via a design that mixes white wooden furnishings against a positive outbreak of colorful cushions. The North Indian food has a habit of raising spirits with its bold spices and authentic style. (C5) ul. Chmielna 98, rasoi.pl Smak Curry There’s been a nationwide pandemic of average Indian restaurants, but despite the rather slim menu Smak Curry can’t be included in that list of disappoint-

Focaccia Ristorante Experience the magical time with us tel.: +48 22 829 69 69 ul. Senatorska 13/15, Warsaw/Old Town restauracja@focaccia.pl, fb.com/restauracjafocaccia www.focaccia.pl

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EAT! Listings ments. On the contrary, what the menu lacks in size it compensates in taste: from big, walloping whacks of lavishly spiced pork Madras to sweet but subtle mango chicken, here’s a restaurant that feels it genuinely adds something extra to a saturated market. Complimented by bright, modern interiors and sunny, friendly wait staff, it’s a place that makes a blue day feel that extra bit better. (E8) ul. Belwederska 44

international Ale Wino You could eat in Ale Wino a hundred times – and we know some people that have – and still never be bored. That alone says much for the consistency and creativity of a kitchen that has come to be admired as the source of some of the best cooking in the city. Regularly adjusted to utilize the best items the season has to offer, chef

Sebastian Wełpa’s menu is a triumph of expertly balanced tastes. Rounding out the experience is an intimate, labyrinthine design that’s ideal for when it’s cold and grim, and a shaded courtyard terrace that’s perfect for when it’s not. (F5) ul.

Mokotowska 48, alewino.pl Bibenda Preserving the prewar heritage of the building, the warm, busy interiors of Bibenda feel ripe for a pint: and yes, thanks to a rotating roster of craft beers, a good pint is what you can expect. Catching the ambience perfectly, the menu is an interesting work that specializes in spotting unlikely combinations that actually work: for instance, ‘cilantro funky pork sausages’ with pickled carrots, brussels sprouts and fried peanuts.(D5) ul.

Nowogrodzka 10, bibenda.pl Brasserie Warszawska Looking for classic cuisine with no daft flights of fancy? Here you have it. At a

time when everyone wants to be Ferran Adrià, Brasserie has both a menu and interior that you can understand: panfried foie gras; elegant beef Rossini; and sinful apple tarte tatin, all served inside posh interiors of zinc-plated mirrors and chessboard floors. Their Michelin Bib Gourmand is a source of pride, but it’s the number of repeat clients that are the ultimate paean to the skills of the chef. (E5) ul. Górnośląska 24, brasseriewarszawska.pl Bubbles Occupying a small, square room, it’s intimate and relaxed: a place busy with blackboards and bottles, crates and clutter. It radiates warmth and honesty.

The food is exquisite, and includes big, meaty snails farmed in Mazury, and their signature dish: Swiss-style raclette.

Presented on a wooden chopping board, this cheese dish is classic melty goodness, and served alongside a pile of potatoes, onions marinated with caramel

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FOOD HALLS Across Warsaw, everyone is eating together! Join the revolution at the following game changing venues…

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Hala Gwardii Set within a charmingly distressed piece of Tsarist-era brickwork, it’s not just the depth of the offer that has kept crowd figures high, but the quality as well. Standouts in this food hall are too numerous to mention, but hat tips go towards the Gorilla coffee point; the meaty treats of Beef’n’Roll; the delicious dumplings at I Love Pierogi; and the English-style spuds served by Pieczone Ziemniaki.

Last but not least, no-one in Poland scoops better ice cream than the team at Ice Pot. (C3) Pl. Mirowska 2, halagwardii.pl

Postępu 5 Christened Mordor by the despairing employees who head there each working day, the area around Domaniewska doesn’t have the best public image. though, there isn’t just hope, but also a solution to realign the spirit of this quarter. Call it Postępu 5, a collection of street vendors housed in a line of former garages and storage units. Highlights inc. Blin (for Russian-style pancakes), Hotto Doggu (Japanese hot dogs), and Roger That Foods, a close quarters burger stop immediately identifiable by the monster smoker set outside. ul. Postępu 5, postepu5.pl

Hala Koszyki Nirvana for the aspirational classes, careful surgery has preserved the heritage of this early 20th century marketplace and juxtaposed it against the urban tapestry of modern Warsaw. Appealing to everyone from foodies and families to Instagram scenesters, its success has sparked a nationwide wave of doubles and duplicates.

But despite their best efforts, none come close to feeling quite so global. Walking around Koszyki, find all from Korean noodles, Spanish tapas, Mexican burritos, Greek kebabs and so much more. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63, koszyki. com

Fort 8 Warsaw’s penchant for reviving historical addresses and injecting them with bold food concepts shows no sign of abating: for latest proof, refer to Fort 8, a 19th century Tsarist barracks since reimagined as a complex housing workshops, stores and restaurants. Belonging to the latter group find, among others, Dziurka Od Klucza (already famed for their Powiśle venture), Garo Sushi, Fort Whisky and Fort Bistro. With more openings set to follow, and a location bordering Ursynów, Mokotów and Wilanów, this could yet emerge as the area’s F&B anchor. ul. Fort Służew 1B, fort8.pl

Warsaw Insider | JANUARY 2020

EAT! Listings and candied pumpkin. Considering the place doubles as a champagne bar the prices are remarkably moderate. (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, bubbles.com.pl Der Elefant This leviathan restaurant unravels in a maze of wrought iron and monochrome tiles – beautiful to look at (it was created

by Oscar-winning set designer Allan Starski), it’s caused a stir for more than just this alone. Where once the menu looked like it was devised by throwing darts at a cookbook, the focus has now been narrowed. While some of the dishes are strictly middling, the filet mignon (zł. 69) is one of the best meat deals in town in terms of quality / price / consistency. (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, derelefant.com Dyletanci Entered into the Michelin Guide for the first time in 2018, Dyletanci’s inclusion in the foodie’s bible was further evidence of the trajectory its taken in the three years it’s been open. The epitome of the neo-bistro style, find an attractive space that’s been seamlessly designed to feature a wine store, kitchen and dining room(s) that somehow feel organically joined. The atmosphere is lifted by faultless cooking that combines a little bit of Polish with a little bit of eclectic: it’s a combination that works and often magnificently well. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44A, dyletanci.pl

a fully open kitchen visible from practically all angle. Live music is an inseparable element of the First Floor experience, with blues, hazz and Latino performances scheduled every weekend. ul. Kasprzaka 31 (Varsovia Apartamenty), firstfloorrest.pl

visit, that meant suckling pig bathed in mustard home brew, and a walloping dessert of honey cake and plum jam. Our experience was not some one-off: in an area thick with good restaurants, consider Kieliszki as one of the best. (D5) ul. Hoża 41, kieliszkinahozej.pl

GarMasz Combining the functions of a store, butchery and, above all, a restaurant, GarMasz is the creation of Piotr Pielichowski, a cook best-known for his appearances on the Polish edition of Master Chef. A keen promoter of natural ingredients and fancy delicacies, his restaurant is stunning in every respect: three years in the making, even the interiors will blow you away. Designed

by Gdańsk-based architect Krystian Rassmus, details include oak finishes, 18th century tiling and swish chandeliers. (E4) ul. Kopernika 5

Kromki Better known for kebab stores and booze outlets, this section of JPII does at times chuck up the occasional surprise: Kromki, for one. The menu is a Jack-of-all-trades, with pizza and burgers rubbing shoulders against pierogi, steak and sharing plates. Yet despite the randomness of the choices and the curious location, there’s something here that really strikes the right note. Expect tastes that work inside a informal, casual space that’s fast taking off as a local secret. (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 45A

Kieliszki Na Hożej Pristine in its whiteness, the corner tenement housing Kieliszki looks like a big wedge of wedding cake. Justly, the interiors are every bit as delicious with their glimmering glass and geometric patterns. All this though pales into insignificance on account of a menu that’s noted for its rich, strident tastes and loving presentation: on this juror’s

Loft Color, that’s what Loft has. It’s everywhere – from the design, which is all bubble shaped lights and splashy, bright cushions, to the drinks: extravagant cocktails that possibly glow in the dark. The menu is full of playful experimentation, something reflected by a seasonal menu that has, in the past, presented such choices as

Fest Port Czerniakowski There are those that claim Fest’s best months are in summer, and sure, their argument is convincing: hidden down twisting roads flanked by glinting waters and thick, tangled woodland, it’s an unexpected picture of pastoral bliss. But make no mistake, winter ain’t bad either.

A general restyling hasn’t just given this timber cabin a lighter look, but also introduced Agata Wojda as head chef.

Her presence adds a finesse to a place formerly recognized as a primordial celebration of meat and brawn. A hymn to Poland’s rural resources, her cooking bridges fanciful sophistication with homely familiarity. (G6) ul. Zaruskiego 8, fest.rest First Floor Restaurant Chic, elegant touches combine with

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EAT! Listings chicken with strawberries. (D4) ul. Złota 11, restauracjaloft.pl MOD BEST WAWA 2018“Casual Dining” An incubator for the unorthodox, this cool and kooky venture pushes the envelope when it comes to being different. Devised

by Trisno Hamid, a Singaporean chef with a classic French background, glories include ramen noodles in a steamy yuzu broth and Angus beef rump steak served with tahini mashed potatoes and a big

ul. Klimczaka 1, Royal Wilanów 791 027 070 pinsa_warszawa pinsaWarszawa www.pinsa.pl

thump of chili and fig relish. Adding to the sense of being somewhere current, find a seriously cool vibe inside an interior featuring a retro mirrored wall, upside down plants and busy tables filled with the kind of people that you’d mistake for rising fashion photographers and contributors to Vice. (D6) ul. Oleandrów 8 Mokotowska 69 Set inside a rotunda at the tail end of the street, it’s a place that exudes elegance and class. Most of all, however, it’s a

restaurant to be enjoyed. Brought to you by the same team credited for Merliniego 5, Mokotowska’s appreciation of steak has been lifted from their elder sister. Yet the virtues of this restaurant extend beyond steak alone: on our last visit, the Insider enjoyed a volley of greats – creamy breaded calf brains, sophisticated smoked eel, and Mazurian crayfish served in a deep, joyous sauce of rowan berry and brandy. (E5) ul. Mokotowska 69 Momu Dominated by meat that’s cooked using the only smoker of its kind in Poland, the menu is comforting and strangely familiar: these are flavors reminiscent of campfire nights – brawny, smoky tastes with towering Reuben sandwiches, juicy steaks, bone marrow and wooden slabs brimming with meats from MOMU’s smokehouse. Impromptu art, tweeting birds and a neo-industrial design add oomph to the busy ambiance. (C2) ul.

Wierzbowa 11, momu.pl Niewinni Czarodzieje 2.0 Kuba Wojewódzki, a.k.a. Poland’s biggest media celeb, has caused tremors by joining forces with restaurateur Józef Krawczyk (Warszawski Sznyt) to unleash a cool, post-industrial venue that strives to be one third club and two thirds restaurant. Swank and arty but also surprisingly affordable, it’s already made waves for its clever international menu and cool, casual vibe. Full report soon. (E3) ul. Zajęcza 2B, niewinniczarodzieje2.pl Opasły Tom The ground floor – all swanky lighting and navy blue seating – is often packed, so it’s downstairs you may head to an intimate space more reminiscent of the original location formerly found on Foksal: here, it’s about muted colors and reassuring shadow. Characterized by its balanced, nuanced flavors and thoughtful combinations, the first menu to debut at this relaunched restaurant sees a medley of dishes you demand to eat again: pumpkin and curd dumplings served in a cheese sauce being the prime example.

(D2) ul. Wierzbowa 9 Projekt 44 Warsaw’s credentials as a global city look all the stronger for places like Projekt 44, a chic-casual spot rooted at the bottom

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EAT! Listings of Daniel Liebeskind’s landmark Złota 44 tower. Heavy on raw materials and moodily-adjusted lighting, the background goes well with a rounded menu offering a 360 view of international cuisine: vegan poke bowls; rib-eye steaks; and cocktails divided by the way they’re served with ice (that is, with a block of ice, ice cubes, crushed ice or nitro). People are excited, and deservedly so. ul. Złota 44 Restauracja Warszawska BEST WAWA 2019 “Newcomer” Humongous in size, the vast spaces and lack of natural light never feel an issue.

Loaded with slick finishes and polished raw materials, find this subterranean venue unraveling amid the giant original foundations that support this pre-war skyscraper. Divided into ‘snacks’, ‘plates’, ‘sides’ and ‘desserts’, big shouts go to a golden schnitzel the size of a tricycle wheel as well as the spicy pork dumplings served in a vibrant essence

of paprika. It’s not a big menu, but it doesn’t need to be: exceptional in every respect, this restaurant has become one of foodie Warsaw’s biggest talking points. (D4) Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9 (Hotel Warszawa), warszawa.hotel.com.pl Rozbrat 20 BEST WAWA 2019 “Neo-Bistro” This busy neo-bistro fuses upmarket, casual styling with an exciting wine list, interactive service and the kind of atmosphere you can’t get enough of.

Under chef Bartosz Szymczak’s leadership, Rozbrat’s grown to become one of the blogospheres favorite write-ups.

Never the same, if there’s a consistent thread to visits then it’s the playful inventiveness that has come to define Szymczak’s cooking. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 20, rozbrat20.com.pl Sphinx One of Poland’s best-known and most

popular restaurant chains touches down on Krucza to offer their tried and tested formula of steaks and Middle Easterninspired dishes. (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22 Stixx Wola: what was once a sad, dusty wasteland has blossomed to become the business district of tomorrow. Nowhere symbolizes this evolution as much as Europejski square with its glittering towers and fancy water features. Looking onto all that is Stixx, a smart, spacious hangout that’s as slick and international as the guests that visit. A well-oiled operation, its diverse menu, professional staff and consistent quality control mark it out as ideal for sealing the deal. (A4) Pl. Europejski 4A, stixx.pl Supperlardo Run as a side project by Mąka i Woda (quite literally – it’s right next door), it’s a stylish-looking spot that’s fresh,

The Amber Room specializes in fine dining and modern European cuisine whilst also featuring Polish dishes. Famed for using the highest quality seasonal ingredients, producing its own pastries as well offering an exhaustive collection of unique wines, the restaurant was recognized in the 2019 edition of the Michelin Guide with four couverts.

Further, last year saw the restaurant receive Wine Spectator’s exclusive Award of Excellence and included in the La Liste rankings of the world’s best restaurants. Amber Room invites you to taste the latest autumn dishes prepared by chef Kamil Rzechowicz. Dishes include scallop with cauliflower and broccoli purée; cream of charred celery soup; saddle of venison with Jerusalem artichoke or a dark chocolate sphere for a dessert.

Carefully selected wines are guaranteed to enhance your culinary experience.

Al. Ujazdowskie 13 tel. +48 600 800 999 recepcja@amberroom.pl www.amber-room.pl

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EAT! Listings

‘Simplicity, elegance and atmosphere’

Cafe • Wine Bar • Restaurant • Whisky Bar • Wine Cellar ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 515 037 001 www.hoza.warszawa.pl www.facebook.com/hoza25 Open 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-21:00

contemporary and even a little edgy: for evidence, refer to a mural designed by Swansky, a local big gun on the street art scene. As for the menu, that’s a riotously meaty romp that involves wood-fired hams, sandwiches composed of pork belly pastrami and salt-cured meats from Puławska and Mangalica pigs. With orders taken at the counter, it’s a place that lifts the canteen concept to new, unseen heights. (D4) ul. Chmielna 13A, fb.com/Supperlardo White One Looking impressive from the off, it’s a place of stylish fittings, glinting surfaces and big splashes of contemporary art.

Straight away, you feel you’re somewhere that’s serious about itself. So it proves. Hotly tipped for big things in the future, chef Paweł Chomentowski has constructed a menu that’s cogent, compelling and not short on twists: the kind of dish you want to take home on a dark, lonely night, the Insider was knocked bandy by beef cheeks slicked in a chocolate / coffee sauce. It’s the dailychanging tasting menu, however, that really allows Chomentowski to flaunt his talent and fan his feathers. One to watch.

(D6) ul. Koszykowa 47, whiteone.pl Zoni BEST WAWA 2019 “Modern Polish” Located in a former Tsarist era vodka distillery, the interior revels in cast iron kilns, flooring produced from 19th century vodka barrels, long shadows and industrial bits and pieces that have been lovingly restored. Sprawling, historic and not short on statement, it’s an address to impress. Incoming chef Michał Gniadek has already earned a name as a star of tomorrow and his menu is a committed foray into what he terms as “seasonal international cuisine with a Polish twist”.

Think BBQ pork ribs that land with a thwunk, Agnolotti pasta expertly folded over Oscypek cheese and tuna served tataki-style. (G1) Pl. Konesera 1, zoni.today

italian Altro Locale Set in a quiet section of Old Mokotów, it’s little wonder the plaudits haven’t ceased.

Owned by chef Andrea Carillo, authentic,

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Warsaw Insider | JANUARY 2020

homespun tastes vie for attention inside a charming space that’s chic and modern but never spartan. You can tell Carillo has invested his heart and soul in this venture, and the result is an ever-changing menu featuring lamb chops, sirloin, and sea bream done the Italian way – don’t think you’ll be getting any pizza here!

Fittingly, its reputation is now extending beyond the district’s natural border. (E8) ul. Willowa 9 Ave Pizza The argument over who serves Warsaw’s best pizza goes right to the wire, but there’s no doubting that Ave Pizza are up there on the leaderboard. Set across a sparse, metropolitan area, this fashionable L-shaped joint comes endorsed by the capital’s notoriously picky Italian community. Order the pillowy calzone and you’ll soon learn why. (E3) ul. Topiel 12, avepizza.pl Dziurka od Klucza An enchanting locale in which enigmatic, lavender-painted doors sit embedded into the walls, as if waiting to be magically opened by the mysterious keys that hang from the numerous interior details. Set with empty picture frames and cotton ball lights, interiors just don’t get any cuter. As for food, the concise, daily-changing menu is centered around homemade pasta – pride of place is given to the black colored pasta served with seafood. (E3) ul. Radna 13, dziurkaodklucza.com.pl Focaccia The big surprise at Focaccia is that there’s no Italian in the kitchen – it appears they don’t need one. Looking splendid in its crystal white colors, this dining room has plaudits aplenty for its selection of pizzas and more sophisticated mains: order the duck breast with marsala sauce for a failsafe choice. (D2) ul. Senatorska 13/15, focaccia.pl Mąka i Woda Purists applaud an approach that uses a custom-made oven from Naples and imported ingredients such as 00 Caputo flour and DOP certified San Marzano tomatoes. Scrupulously authentic, it’s no wonder that it’s packed to the gunnels every night of the week – even their Facebook page warns of 20-minute

EAT! Listings waiting times for a table alone. (D4) ul.

Chmielna 13A Prosciutteria Powiśle Buzzing with warmth, here an interior composed of pre-war floor tiles, exposed brickwork, and black and white images of Italian icons sets a casually good mood that’s sustained by the owners.

They’re knowledgeable, as well. If Prosciutteria feels good, then it tastes even better. Based around cold cuts, find heavy wooden boards loaded with imported delicacies from small producers that the couple have befriended: Ubriaco cheese bathed in Prosecco; pork belly fat dry-cured for six months; salami from Milan and Naples… There’s more, of course, but it all becomes one in this orgy of pleasure. (F4) ul. Solec 85 Trattoria Rucola The secret at this chain enterprise?

Despite a cut & paste interior (white tables against forest-themed wallpaper) the underlying and consistent quality has you thinking you’re dining somewhere unique. Find a vast selection of pizzas and other Italian standards cooked to a level that never falls below high. ul.

Francuska 6, Krucza 6/14, Miodowa 1, Klimczaka 1 & Inwalidów 10, trattoriarucola.pl

japanese

aspire to. The off-center location adds to the impression of dining somewhere that only those in the loop know about. ul.

Duchnicka 3, mizusushi.pl Sakana Sushi & Sticks It’s not uncommon to hear the preparation of sushi described as a form of art, and in Sakana that’s exactly what it is.

Using premium ingredients and unusual combinations, their creations are a vivid blast of color and freshness. (D2) ul.

Moliera 4/6, sakana.pl Sato Gotuje Signposted by its own splash of Manga-style art adorning the exterior wall, this Commie era pavilion feels small and squashed and assembled on a budget. Who cares? No-one. An exciting departure from the norm – no sushi here – the menu is a selection of bitey Japanese street food such as grilled mackerel fillet with shavings of grated radish. ul. Pawińskiego 24 Shoku Most places that claim to serve fusion do so because of an identity crisis. At Shoku, though, the mix and match approach when it comes to Asia (if it’s tasty, stick it on the menu!) feels rational and put together. Never short of custom, locals gather inside a bright, contemporary space to slurp down bowls of ramen, share shoku bowls or click chopsticks

over small plates of dim sum and wonton.

(A4) ul. Karolkowa 30, shoku.pl Uki Uki How much do the locals appreciate Warsaw’s original udon bar? Enough to queue outside the door? That’s right. Dining is a close quarters experience here, but is done so without complaint: that electric pasta maker turns out noodles of such chewy goodness that everyone leaves beaming. (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, ukiuki.pl Wabu Sushi becomes a heaven’s gate spiritual experience in Wabu with the evening passing in a blur of beautiful compositions, of silky slithers of fish crowned with expert pinches of this, and little brush strokes of that. That’s all elevated even further by deliciously upscale interiors befitting of the Spire location. (A4) Pl. Europejski 2 (Warsaw Spire), wabu.pl Yatta Originally born from a food truck, Yatta’s stationary address is everything you want: scruffy, frayed and busy, and the living embodiment of the street food vibe.

The ideal outlet for their concept, step inside a rackety interior to join other hip creatures Instagramming the only jiro ramen to be found in Warsaw. Once you’re done doing that, kick back to slurp over big, steamy bowl of spicy miso ramen.

(E3) Bartoszewicza 3, fb.com/YattaBowl

Arigator This Japanese-style noodle joint whisks you to the narrow, steamy back alleys of late night Tokyo. Clad in corrugated iron and dark, weathered wooden slats, it’s got that buzzing sense of chaos that feels familiar from the films. And the food, gosh, they get that right as well.

From a tiny menu order up dainty pork dumplings, braised kakuni bacon or deep-fried tofu before hitting up a feisty bowl of ramen emanating life-affirming goodness. A complex tangle of interlacing flavors, it’s the sort of dish you’d happily queue up for: and yes, people do.

(D6) ul. Piękna 54 Mizu Irresistible, immaculate and imaginative, Mizu’s sushi sets a benchmark that Warsaw’s other Japanese joints can only

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EAT! Listings jewish Mazal Tov Operated by the same group behind Momu and Aioli, their experience in pleasing the masses is mirrored by Mazal Tov, a restaurant whose menu is inspired by Ashkenazi cuisine. The tastes have an addictive street food style, while the courtyard garden is a shaded refuge from the Old Town hubbub.

(D1) ul. Podwale 29, mazaltov.pl

korean The Cool Cat Casual and convivial and absent of aloofness, it’s a place in which all life seems to gather for a taste of good times. Refusing to take themselves too seriously, the angle is fun and forwardthinking, something that’s evidenced by way of an occasionally wacky menu of Americanized Asian food: the K-Fries (a big messy mass of kimchi, chips, bulgogi beef) are spot on. (F4) ul. Solec 38 (also on Marszałkowska 8) Koreanka A courtyard cubbyhole that’s scuffed, informal and fashionably ramshackle.

Such has been the stir created by it, diners arrive in the knowledge that they’ll be scavenging a table and eating what little might be left over from another

sell-out day. Yet here’s the point of contention: is it really all that’s cracked up? The kimchi is exemplary, but not everything works so well. Though raved about by Warsaw’s Instagrammers, we were left disenchanted by the shallow, empty tastes of the bulgogi. (D6) ul.

Koszykowa 59 KoreaTown Rest Here, the ubiquitous KFC (Korean fried chicken) is all crunch and crackle and the bulgogi tender, juicy and the right side of sweet; accompanying them, an assortment of bitey dishes heaving with chilli flecked kimchi, daikon radish and pickled bits and bobs. All very good, but nothing compared to the bossam, braised pork belly scooped up by hand inside glistening perilla leaves: it’s a dish that soothes, gratifies and leaves diners looking every bit as pleased as the pipe-smoking tiger that gazes from the wall. (E9) ul. Olesińska 2 Sora Korean food is big news in Warsaw, though increasingly it’s the Americanized K-food style you’ll find. Sora returns to the roots with tabletop BBQs, lively spices and lashings of Makkoli wine. The number of Korean guests is an endorsement in itself. (A4) ul. Wronia 45 Yache Korea Though primarily known as the capital of Warsaw’s craft beer scene, Nowogrodzka

A MODERN BISTRO IN WARSAW'S MURANÓW Jana Pawła II 45a, lok. 38, Tel: 666 043 043 kromkibistro.pl fb.com/kromkibistro

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is beginning to demonstrate that she’s more than just a one-trick pony.

Helping the food angle is this newbie, a steamy little venue that’s all clatter and commotion. Design barely goes beyond a wall of potted plants, but with a place of this size all you need is four people and presto, you’ve got an atmosphere.

On the food front, the crispy chicken embraces the seoul (ha!) like comfort food at its best, and the bulgogi the best we had last year – not bad going seeing there’s not a Korean in the kitchen. (D5) ul.

Nowogrodzka 25

latin & spanish Casa Pablo “We give Spanish food a new twist,” declares chef Gonzalo de Salas, which explains why, in between pungent cheeses and acorn-fed Bellota ham, we find ourselves demolishing a variety of dishes that buck all notions of tradition: as a starter the beetroot-marinated salmon served with wasabi emulsion is a fine example of this. (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5A, casapablo.pl Ceviche Bar BEST WAWA 2019 “Ethnic Dining” With chef Martin Gimenez Castro injecting his passion and personality into the venue, this is an address that punches through the greyness of everyday Warsaw. Ceviche – raw fish marinated in citrus juices and cilantro – is the default order, with the Atun one of the best sellers: chunks of tuna given a rich zing with the addition of chili, lime and roasted coriander. The Japanese influence on South America’s dining habits isn’t forgotten either, with must-haves including the the salmon tiraditos: served with teriyaki and sweet potato mash, it’s a joy of satisfying sensations: sweet, dreamy, spicy, creamy. (C4) ul. Twarda 4, cevichebar.pl

mexican El Popo Age hasn’t wearied El Popo one iota. Old

EAT! Listings it might be, but that hasn’t been to the detriment of the atmosphere. A place of happiness, the full color of the Mexican kitchen is brought to life via the full-fisted flavors of chef Angel Aceves. (C2) ul.

Senatorska 27 Gringo Bar Cooked and folded by fist bumping lads in back-to-front caps and baggy t-shirts, the food at Gringo is fiery, fresh and full of zing. There are detractors who claim this is a Polonized version of this cuisine, but the informal Gringo remains one of the market leaders. (E9) ul. Odolańska 15 La Sirena You don’t even have to think twice when asked to name the best Mexican in the capital. Inspired by the ultra-violent films of Danny Trejo, the hardcore interior heaves with machetes, holy shrines, skulls and wire mesh; but if La Sirena looks fab, it tastes even better. Introducing a new dimension to Warsaw’s parched Mexican landscape, highlights inc. poblano peppers stuffed with pork/ beef, peach, apple and apricots, as well as a ‘near death’ salsa that’s finally living up to its name. (D5) ul. Piękna 54

middle eastern Dar Mounia Moroccan food finds itself lifted to new levels at Dar Mounia, a beautiful space that strikes a careful balance between the refined and the exotic: decorative floor tiles, cascading greenery and gold fixtures deliver a look that feels deliciously alluring and full of subtle promise. The food befits the backdrop, with a menu that presents authentic dishes assembled with a delicate, sophisticated hand. (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, darmounia.pl Kumin One of the big hits of 2018 is back open, this time in new digs on Gagarina. Casual and easy on the eye, features of the new address include a woodsy outdoor terrace and a laidback vibe set to a permanent state of chill. The food? Wow. Few places do a better job of replicating the aromatic taste of Middle Eastern lamb. (F8) ul. Gagarina 33

Le Cedre With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoalgrilled lamb chops. (E1) Al. Solidarności 61, lecedre.pl

Le Cedre 84 Le Cedre just keep on getting it right.

Authenticity is key in this chainlette (well, there’s another two to pick from), as you’ll discover when talking to Tony, the Lebanese owner. To see the diversity of this cuisine, order the balbaak (six cold starters) or the byblos (six hot).

And food aside, it’s the atmosphere that carries them that extra yard: the whole philosophy of this cuisine is to share and share alike, making it a uniquely engaging experience when dining with friends. (B3) Al. Solidarności 84, lecedre.pl

Le Cedre Lounge Furnished in voluptuous Middle Eastern style, the latest subsidiary of the Le Cedre empire bursts with fancy sheesha pipes, extravagant rugs and shimmery satin drapes. It’s a look that’s fun, familiar, intimate and warm. Less encyclopedic than that of its two sister ventures, Le Cedre Lounge has a slimmer menu that introduces several new tastes to fans of Lebanese cuisine. Helplessly more-ish, it’s food that’s in line with the vibey atmosphere and casual air. (C4) ul.

Grzybowska 5A, lecedre.pl Maghreb Maghreb is a place to call home – a warm, familiar restaurant whose bijou interior falls on the good side of casual. The sense

MODERN TAKE ON JAPANESE CUISINE

OPEN EVERY DAY 12:00-23:00 GROUND FLOOR WARSAW SPIRE, PLAC EUROPEJSKI 2 +48 668 925 959 WABU@WABU.PL | WWW.WABU.PL WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/WABUSUSHI

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EAT! Listings of natural goodness is emphasized by the add-ons that start landing on the table: a creamy baba ganoush with a gently smoky taste; zingy tabbouleh salad that screams with perky freshness; and an addictive mechouia dip made with roasted peppers and tomatoes. But these are a precursor for mains such as tajine dishes defined by their big-hearted richness – in this, the beef is the king, with a deep velvet sauce of honey and ginger and knuckle-sized prunes. ul. Burakowska 9, maghreb.pl Tahina There’s so much to love about Tahina that it’s hard to know where to begin: eventually, though, thoughts will inevitably turn to Warsaw’s best wrap. Contained within a featherlight lavash, the 36-hour slowcooked beef all but melts in the mouth.

One bite and you’ve found heaven. In a city where eating Middle Eastern cuisine still has the feeling of a high risk game of roulette, Tahina hits the jackpot. Look out for look out for Iraqi-style scrambled eggs with dates, not to mention generous tahini bowls cascading with juicy chunks of chicken, and traditional coffee heated in a pan of sand. (C5) ul. Wilcza 26, fb.com/ TahinaWilcza

polish Bez Gwiazdek BEST WAWA 2019 “Best Chef” BEST WAWA 2019“Tasting Menu” While Bez Gwiazdek rejects the core principles of fine dining, don’t for one minute expect anything less than food that whispers refined sophistication.

Focusing each month on a different region of the country, Robert Trzópek’s tasting menu takes diners to the very heart of the Polish soul and does so via tastes that betray his fine dining background: delicate and precise, it’s the polar opposite of the standard Polski feast. Just when you thought you had worked out the nation’s cuisine, along comes Robert Trzópek to rewrite the rules. (E3) ul. Wiślana 8 Ćma by Mateusz Gessler Open round-the-clock, Ćma has rescued the city’s night owls from the evil clutches of the center’s grisly kebab dens. Set

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against an edgy, moth-themed interior designed by guerilla artist Tomasz Górnicki, this on-trend nightspot elevates late night dining to new heights with a menu that involves modernized Polish delicacies such as sausage with horseradish emulsion, black pudding with apple and… goose stomachs. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63, mateuszgessler.com.pl Czerwony Wieprz An amusing restaurant that looks back at communism through a rose-tinted lens.

Under the glowering gaze of commie tyrants, staff dressed like obedient members of the party’s Youth League deliver hefty dishes from a cheeky menu that is in itself a collector’s item. (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, czerwonywieprz.pl Delicja Polska Looking stately (pink bows, gilt touches and immaculate linen) but never stuffy, Delicja have a modern Polish menu that includes sous-vide salmon marinated in beetroot leaves, then topped with horseradish foam and dill emulsion. Brilliant.

But then so was everything else we tried, including the exquisite seasoned roast beef. (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 64, delicjapolska.pl Dom Polski Almost like it was designed for the manor born, Dom Polski has the rarefied atmosphere of a country retreat: bow-tied staff who click their heels, decorative antiques and a menu that’s a sumptuous anthology of posh Polish cooking. When you need to give visitors a sense of classic Warsaw, Dom Polski is the first out of the hat. (H4) ul. Francuska 11, restauracjadompolski.pl Dom Polski Belwederska Accessed via curling pathways and bursting shrubs this restaurant conjures images of an aristocrat’s manor. The air of privilege matches a menu that’s rich in fanciful classics such as their signature goose. Elegant and exquisite, consider it your default choice for a taste of true Poland. (F8) ul. Belwederska 18A, restauracjadompolski.pl Elixir by Dom Wódki There are some who call the food here ‘deconstructed Polish’. In actuality, 'reconstructed' would be closer to the mark. The chef has taken local classics

and redrafted the recipes with the swoosh of a contemporary pen. The outcome is a pleasure from start to finish: a life affirming żurek, a tartar that could fulfill ambassadorial duties for Poland, and a handsome beef tenderloin sprinkled with crispy potato shavings.

Thoughtful pairings with lesser-known, boutique vodkas add another dimension that serves to complete this pleasing, patriotic adventure. (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl Folk Gospoda If you missed the last train to Zakopane, then a night in Folk Gospoda is the next best thing. Kitted out like a typical tavern in the Tatras, it’s a good-humored celebration of mountain-slope traditions: heaps of meat and lard with plenty of vodka and song in between. (B3) ul. Waliców 13, folkgospoda.pl Kieliszki na Próżnej You’ll find Kieliszki na Próżnej, the latest restaurant to mark the rehabilitation of Próżna, so named after the 1,116 wineglasses that hang tantalizingly over the bar. As an anchor feature the suspended glassware is arresting and equaled only by a long stretch of wall art doodled by Mariusz Tarkawian. The food matches up to the interiors, with a modern Polish menu that – on our visit – involved a thick, brilliantly spreadable foie gras pate, a thick slab of brawn and a delicate piece of moist Baltic cod. It’s pure seasonal comfort. (C3) ul. Próżna 12, kieliszkinaproznej.pl Kuchnia Czwerwony Rower Identified by the red bike hanging outside, this canteen-style affair is an antidote to the rampant monetization of Praga.

Aiming to get those with social problems back on track, this social project hands the initiative back to those down on their look by providing employment in their kitchen. Simple but effective in its style, it’s one of the cheapest feeds around. (F1) ul. Targowa 82 Le’pię In a restaurant that feels pure and feminine with its pristine tilework, gold cutlery and pastel pink finishes, the dumpling is given a remarkable, artisanal makeover.

Handmade with love, find unlikely fillings such as pear and peach complimented

EAT! Listings

ORZO

FOR THE KONESER… Positioned in a restored vodka factory, Centrum Praskie Koneser has carved itself into wider Warsaw’s conscience not just for its famed vodka museum and niche fashion stores, but also as the city’s largest food and drinks hub…

Bar 3/4 Squirreled up on the third floor of the building housing the Museum of Polish Vodka, this bar utilizes its location to the max to offer grandstand views and immaculate cocktails fixed by gifted bartenders.

Bistro WuWu Old school Polish flavors reprised with modern flair inside funky, cosmopolitan interiors – the vodka pairings are a must. For full details, see p. 58.

Bombaj Masala Praga Without doubt, the biggest Indian hit of 2019! Offering lesser-known curries and street food inspired tapas, the menu is one big thrill of fiery sensations: for our full review, see p. 36.

Ferment Praski Following a chic neo-bistro format, chef Piotr Ziemowski presents global recipes cooked with seasonal Polish produce inside a stylishly casual, modern interior.

Frankie’s A bastion of clean living goodness, this Scandinavian-born concept specialize in protein shakes, elaborate fruit concoctions and superfood cocktails.

MOXY HOTEL BAR

Koneser Grill Placing ‘fire’ at the heart of its concept, the latest project from the cannon of restaurateur Daniel Pawełek has already won blanket praise for its stylish execution of meat-centric dishes. Full review on p. 37.

Moxy Hotel Bar Sure it’s a hotel bar, it’s just unlike any you’ve seen before. Find banging author’s cocktails served 24/7 inside an uber-trendy venue stacked high with mad design elements.

ORZO Brimming with air-purifying plants, ORZO market themselves as a celebration of ‘people, music, nature’.

Food-wise, burgers, pizzas and steaks feature prominently, but vegans aren’t overlooked either.

Syreni Śpiew Koneser Restaurant, bar, club: Syreni Śpiew fills all these roles and many more besides. One of the trendiest party zones in the capital, for further details see p. 70.

Van Dog An ambassador for food porn, hit up Van Dog for lavish hot dawgs dripping with maverick fillings and towering freak shakes overspilling with calorific wickedness.

ZONI Sublime international cuisine inside historic interiors tweaked by the award-winning design maestro, Mirosław Nizio – a firm Insider fave, for full details see p. 50.

Centrum Praskie Koneser Pl. Konesera, koneser.eu Parking from ul. Białostocka and Ząbkowska

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Traditional Polish Cuisine,

Ĺťurek

(traditional sour rye soup)

Golonka

(roast pork knuckle)

Placki Ziemniaczane

(potato pancake with gulash)

We serve Polish dishes on hot pans and sizzling cast iron and are winners of many culinary competitions Hand making our own pierogi since 1913 Pierogi z owocami Fruit dumplings

but don’t miss the pierogi OUR LOCATIONS IN WARSAW U L . K R A KO W S K I E P R Z E D M I E Ś C I E 5 5 | T E L . 2 2 6 9 2 7 2 0 4 U L . N O W Y Ś W I AT 6 4 | T E L . 2 2 6 9 2 4 1 3 5 AL. JEROZOLIMSKIE 28 | TEL. 22 826 7484 U L . F R E TA 1 | T E L . 2 2 8 3 1 6 1 9 0 UL. ŚWIĘTOJAŃSKA 13 | TEL. 22 635 6109 U L . F R E TA 1 8 | T E L . 2 2 6 3 5 7 9 5 9

EAT! Listings by a pour of honey-ginger syrup, or black pudding squashed in with cranberry and crispy shallots. It’s all quite brilliant, in fact, brilliant enough to feature in a BBC travel segment aired over Christmas. (E3) ul. Topiel 12 Lobo Bistro Accessed via a striking glass-ceilinged courtyard, Lobo presents itself in two parts: the first, a dark, fern-colored dining room with a show-stealing tree installation; and the second, a more spacious area high on natural light and soft, blond wood. The approach to contemporary Polish cuisine is intelligent, the thought process clear, and the execution unblemished with dishes like beef loin on pureed parsley proving every bit as good as they should. (D6) ul. Noakowskiego 16 Polana Smaków Few chefs do a better job than Andrzej Polan when it comes to making herring sexy, with his interpretation arriving with a homemade bagel and blobs of orange pumpkin. Desserts are a sin and have, in the past, included a boozy donut soaked in punch and puffed to extreme with a blast of vanilla cream. It’s sophisticated yet reassuringly simple. (C5) ul. E. Plater 14, polanasmakow.pl Restauracja Polska “Różana” The rarified atmosphere of Różana is a pleasure indeed. Close to the frontline

of Mokotów / Śródmieście, you’d never guess the proximity of the center. Seated in their garden, one feels removed from the city – a fountain burbles quietly in the background, starlings hop around the trees. From the inside, one hears the distant tinkle of the house pianist. Just being here is a thrill in itself, and the food is a Polish dining extravaganza served from the top table: farmhouse duck, saddle of venison, etc. (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, restauracjarozana.com.pl Stary Dom A classic restaurant in style and history: back in the day it was a favorite haunt of jockeys and race goers from the horse track nearby. Pre-war recipes form the basis of the menu, with the team using seasonal produce and the latest technology to bring out its best. ul. Puławska 104/106, restauracjastarydom.pl Świętoszek Tartuffe A subterranean venue set with arcing brick walls and polished bits of fancy, it’s elegant enough for something special yet casual enough for walk-ins. A place of hospitality, human warmth and big, heartfelt tastes, the Insider’s December visit involved premium tartare revealed from under a smoking glass dome; pumpkin soup to die for; and deer steak with juniper

sauce. Conclude with the Kajmak cake, a modernized version of the original 1986 recipe. You leave having eaten well and enjoyed every minute. ul. Jezuicka 6/8, swietoszek.pl Talerzyki It sounds a little absurd, but Talerzyki manage the implausible by Polonizing the concept of tapas and coming up trumps. Fiercely Polish in spirit, the menu looks to revive the essence of inter-war Warsaw with its selection of classic recipes presented in scaled-down form: blood pudding with apple and cinnamon; beef tongue and horseradish; and white sausage with fermented flour sauce. (D6) ul. Mokotowska 33/35 The Farm The clue’s in the name. Preaching a message of farm-to-fork, this Mokotowska eatery takes its produce seriously – to the extent they have their own farm in the lake district to the north. Subject to frequent change, menu items include Porcini terrine, apple-fed pork with smoked plum, or Mazurian trout with smoked caviar. You want to order it all. Supporting the strength of the cooking is an interior that feels comfortable, classic and high on natural charm. (D6) ul. Mokotowska 8 Pyzy Flaki Gorące Insulate yourself against the chill with a hearty helping of homemade dumplings that are squished into jars. Budgetminded in both cost and appearance, it’s become one of Praga’s worst kept secrets with several of Poland’s top food writers praising it to the hilt. Filled with a wide cast of characters, nowhere does a better job of expressing the district’s soul than this ramshackle eatery. (G1) Brzeska 29/31 Wuwu Concrete finishes, illuminated tubes of light, glass block walls and graphic illustrations lend a slick smartness to this narrow, bluish space. Busy with start-up entrepreneurs and off-duty business bods, they’re here to enjoy the food of one of Poland’s big gastronomic hopes: self-taught Adriana Marczewska.

Her twin aims are to connect her food to vodka and to reintroduce the public

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EAT! Listings to the forgotten classics of inter-war Warsaw. With items like duck tongues on the menu, and a shared address with the Vodka Museum, these are ambitions that are realized. Pl. Konesera 1 (Centrum Praskie Koneser), wuwu.bar

Zapiecek Seven Warsaw locales, with our favorite found in the vaulted passages of Świętojańska. The menu is highly traditional, with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’. It’s for the pierogi though for which they’re famous; find approx. fifty types delivered by servers dressed like saucy country maids. Locations inc. ul. Nowy Świat 64, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska 13 & ul.

Wańkowicza 1, zapiecek.eu Zielony Niedźwiedź A sanctuary of elegant fancy, it’s a place of

long, dark shadows and discreet decorative touches: From the outset, you’re made to feel that good things will happen, and this they do. Certified by Poland’s fledgling slow food movement, the menu gives star billing to the suppliers that keep the pantry full; but the truth is these aren’t the only heroes. Taking the reins in June, new chef Oliwia Bernady has grown in stature and skill preparing a daily tinkered menu that opens your eyes to the real tastes of Poland. (E4) ul. Smolna 4

russian & ukrainian Kanapa Ukrainian food gets a fine dining makeover inside a plush villa that’s all sweeping staircases and theatrical chandeliers. Rich and raucous in some parts, refined and delicate in others, the food is a credit to the cunning of the

chef. (E8) ul. Narbutta 10, fb.com/kanapa. restauracja Rest.Baczewskich Inspired by the cuisine of Old Poland and pre-war Lviv, dishes include Galician-style herring and beef cooked in pork fat and served with white porridge and fried cabbage – as classic as they sound, presentation is pure 21st century and fitting of the luxurious surroundings of this one-time palace. Full review coming soon.

(E7) Al. Szucha 17/19, baczewskich.rest Skamiejka As a social point, this family-run restaurant works incredibly well. Filled with assorted clutter and Russian bits and pieces (album covers, books, jars of pickles and jumble sale finds), the welcome is second-to-none, while beverages include a wide range of vodka and beer from the former Soviet-bloc nations. The food is hefty, comfort-driven and ideal for long, wintry nights. (G1) ul. Ząbkowska 37

Flavours of Warsaw - traditional Polish cuisine with a distinctive modern touch. Everything is made from fresh seasonal ingredients.

Enjoy, among many others, roasted pumpkin steak with quinoa, oyster mushrooms and beetroot purèe.

Or try our mouth watering pork ribs with Jack Daniell’s sauce, roasted potatoes, cherry tomatoes and rocketoasted daddle of deer with chestnuts, smoked celery purèe and pan fried Brussels sprouts.

Or perhaps you have a taste for duck breast with bean puree with French potatoes and marinated strawberries.

To finish off delight in our home made pastries. tel. 48 22 621 82 68 Żurawia str. 47/49 Warsaw www.smakiwarszawy.com

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EAT! Listings scandinavian Nabo Open-faced Smørrebrød sandwiches are a specialty with toppings including ribbons of herring with curry egg paste and a flurry of greens, but Nabo also extends to cover other aspects of the new Nordic style: the fish goulash is recommended. ul. Zakręt 8, nabocafe.pl

seafood L’Arc Plucked alive and kicking from a burbling fish tank, L’Arc’s lobsters and crabs are among the best in the biz. Known for their obsessive devotion to seafood, other choices in this elegant, monochrome venue include six kinds of oysters and a bouillabaisse to blow your mind. (E8) ul. Puławska 16, larc.pl

steak houses Beef n’ Pepper Beef N’ Pepper presents itself in a buzzy urban flash of violet blue lighting, slick banquette seating and open kitchen action. Straight away, you get the feeling of being in a place that’s alive and active, a feeling that’s affirmed by a busy backlit bar from behind which black-shirted staff fling sunny cocktails for the after-work crowd.

Of course, it’s the food angle that takes precedence, and at Beef N’ Pepper that translates to a decent choice of surf’n’turf.

Highlights include thumping T-bones and a 60-day aged Argentinean top loin. (C5) ul. Nowogrodzka 47A, beefandpepper.pl

meat rules. More than a standard burger bar, shout outs go to glistening marrow served in thwunks of roasted bone; soft, rich black pudding heaped on a squidgy brioches; and a lean, tender hangar steak crusted with the perfect amount of char. (F6) ul. Rozbrat 8

Butchery & Wine When Butchery opened in 2011 it completely transformed the way Poland viewed its steak. The first ‘new wave’ meat joint in the country, it’s launch lit the fuse for a steak revolution. Now an institution in its own right, this cosmopolitan spot remains one of the most sought out bookings in the capital – bookings are advised. (D5) ul. Żurawia 22 Ed Red Warszawa You can tell they’re serious about their meat just by looking at the starters: big, juicy marrow bones, mountain oysters, blood sausage and calf’s brain.

The steaks are the calling card though, and here you’ll find them dry aged and consumed with the aid of hunting knives.

(B3) Pl. Mirowski 1, edred.pl Hoża Wine and steak: it sounds simple, but Hoża have taken two simple pleasures to another level. It’s an ebullient space with service right out of charm school, and a kitchen team with a real knowledge of cows. A red-blooded affair, the menu is a steak sensation and well paired with a handpicked wine list. (D5) ul. Hoża 25A, hoza.warszawa.pl Merliniego The steaks are out-of-this world, with USDA prime beef from New York’s legendary Ottomanelli & Sons and Scottish beef from London’s Smithfield Market.

On our last visit we splurged on the Grade 9+ wagyu ‘kobe’ rib-eye and found ourselves eating the steak of a lifetime.

Simply amazing. (E10) ul. Merliniego 5, merliniego.pl

BykBar BykBar presents itself in a style that typifies the ‘Warsaw casual’ look: behind a glass frontage find subway tiles in abundance, a black and white color code and the requisite neon announcing their name. And if the name and logo weren’t enough, then the menu confirms it:

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Mięsny What’s not to like about a butcher, deli and bistro all rolled into one meaty treat.

Set down a leafy side street in posh Saska Kępa, this Saska Keeper presents a handful of wooden tables inside a monochrome-floored, white-tiled interior adorned with an azure-colored neon and graphic illustrative wall art depicting

tasty farmyard animals – if you’re vegan, shoot yourself now. Typed onto a sheet of paper, the menu is an atavistic joyride that arouses primal, caveman urges: sweetbreads with chestnut puree; bone marrow with parsley salad; duck rillettes; and Red Angus steaks of every description. Nothing disappoints. ul. Walecznych 64, miesny.pl

thai Bangkok Soi Replicating the street tastes of Bangkok, find vigorously spiced red curry, Som Tam salad containing hard-to-find ingredients such as green papaya, and Tom Sap soup loaded with lemongrass, galangal, kaffir lime leaves and tomato. In this whir of full-throated flavors, it’s easy to become hopelessly lost in waves of bliss. (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 50

vietnamese Oh My Pho Steamy and aromatic, this is pho as it should be: full of big herby thwacks, ribboning noodles, and soft strips of meat in a clear, restorative stock. Often cited as being the ‘soul of the nation’, just a few noisy slurps are all that’s needed to corroborate the life-affirming goodness of this beautiful broth... (D5) ul. Wilcza 32 Vietnamka Divey but lively, diners step down into Vietnamka to find a shouty little lair of mint green walls and wobbly wooden tables. Infused with a gentle sense of chaos, there’s a certain charm at work that feels authentic and convincing.

Squiggled onto a crumpled sheet of paper, menu items include giant bowls of warming pho, steamed goat with lemongrass and more-ish spring rolls.

(D5) ul. Poznańska 7 Viet Street Food Bistro Widely looked upon as the source of some of the best Vietnamese chow this city’s ever seen, the small menu contains steaming bowls of pho and banh mi baguettes loaded with meat and greens: both are brill. (H4) ul. Królowej Aldony 5/2

First Sips THE GREEN ROOM

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF KOKO & ROY

Quite when it happened we’ve no idea, but somewhere along the line Koko & Roy have blossomed into one of the Insider’s favorite weekend nights. With its quirky-cool design, multinational crowd and funky sounds, it’s the kind of place you hit pre-club before deciding to drop the club bit altogether. And in the event that things are slow, you can rely on the owners to grab the evening by the horns and lead you down a murky rabbit hole involving off-the-cuff cocktails and offbeat conversation.

Before you know it, by God, is it really nearly three? But there is more; not ones to stand still, recent weeks have seen the unveiling of a back room quite like no other. Presenting itself in an unexpected explosion of Triffid-style plants and assorted greenery, stepping inside is akin to discovering a secret tiny world that’s been weaved using magic – it’s a gem.

Koko & Roy ul. Wilcza 43, kokoandroywarsaw.com

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drink!

LAS

ul. Solec 44 Unrecognizable from its previous life as the grungy Solec 44, this rail-side commie pavilion has been given a striking facelift involving neatened retro furnishings, smart parquet flooring and… a riot of leafy lifeforms. It’s a look that moves in rhythm with the ‘back to nature’ motto of the menu. And we don’t just mean the food, but the drinks as well: order the French Pine to see what we mean.

Orzo

Pl. Konstytucji 5 & Centrum Praskie Koneser A breath of fresh air – literally. It’s almost as if Orzo have engaged in a solo campaign to fight the city’s smog problem. Decked out with air-purifying plants, the assembled greenery is capable of transforming carbon dioxide into oxygen. Not just for show, you’ve simply just got to dig an interior like this.

Roślina

If, according to Kermit, it’s not easy being green, then it’s not just Koko & Roy that have made him look a Muppet – across Warsaw, bars and cafes are reveling under the cooling green glow of zillions of plants…

Cosmo Bar

ul. Twarda 4 There’s a few plants here and there (bits of which will end up in your cocktail), but the big deal about Cosmo is their zero-waste policy. Maximizing sustainability by using foraged ingredients and local berries, their no-plastic / no citrus manifesto adds emphasis to the strategy. Despite all that, never does this cocktail haven come close to losing its sense of untrammeled luxury.

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Foton

ul. Wilcza 9A For the undisputed King of the Jungle, head thee to Foton, a fashionable, late closing bar whose steel framed décor has been designed with plant life in mind. Rigged up to a special system that keeps all the green stuff oxidized, the interiors are as luscious as the cocktails and the hip, slender creatures that lick them all up. We love it here, and you will as well.

Tlen

ul. Rakowiecka 15/17 There’s a clue in the name: translated to mean ‘oxygen’, that commodity is in rich supply thanks to a minimalistic white interior that’s contrasted against shelves of succulents and glass jars brimming with plants. Restrained in presentation and never straying into over-the-top territory, this Mokotów café charms those who enter with its eco-minded approach and amiable welcome.

PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT

FEELIN’ GREEN!

ul. Schroegera 80 Though not quite in the same abundance as some of those on this shortlist, plants constitute a major part of the design, a point underlined by the venue’s very name (you’ve guessed right, it means ‘plant’). The specialty coffees and bountiful vegan options go well with an attractively artsy low-budget look featuring bare concrete and droopy plans hanging from the pipes. A true cult café that feels essential to the function of the district!

TIME FOR TEA!

Chillout with a warm cup of joy from Republika Smaków…

Unique, high quality teas are the signature of Republika Smaków, a pedigree importer specializing in Vahdam teas. Unlike the brews many are accustomed to, these do not spend months traveling in containers before being packaged and sold, but are bought directly from plantations and growers before being packed within 24 to 72 hours of being produced. Then sent directly from India, customers receive originally packed tea complete with the date of purchase and date of packaging – by eliminating all intermediaries, we are able to ensure not only the finest quality but also the guarantee that those that have cultivated the tea have received fair remuneration.

Winter Warmer

This January, look no further than our Himalayan green tea to lend some warmth to the chill. With its special soil type and specific climate, the Himalayan region extracts the very best from tea. Harvested by hand from high altitude plantations, we’ve made every effort to preserve the original flavor of this tea to maximize its flavor and antioxidant properties.

To order, visit us at: republikasmakow.com

Vahdam are proud to dedicate 1% of our revenue to a fund that goes towards the education of our tea workers’ children.

PARTNER

SPOTLIGHT

CLASS IN A GLASS

Does vodka only pair well with herring and cucumbers?

Doesn’t every vodka just taste the same? Or can it replace wine altogether around the dinner table? These questions and more are answered by WuWu…

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BROUGHT TO YOU BY WUWU

C

onsidered by many to be the very lifeblood of Poland, for centuries vodka has been the drink of choice for Poles across the country: whether for drowning sorrows or celebrating joyous occasions, it’s the default tipple for millions of people. Yet despite its long history and rich associations with the country, misconceptions exist to this day – for instance, shouldn’t it just be downed in a shot? Most certainly not, and at WuWu you’ll learn it’s a drink to be savored.

How Far Can You Count?

At WuWu Bistro Bar you’ll be counting to nearly one hundred before you can tick off all our vodkas. Set inside a historic vodka plant, our bar proudly presents a vast array of vodkas including legendary Polish brands such as Wyborowa and Luksusowa, heritage labels like Baczewski and Potocki and boutique producers of the caliber of Vestal Pomorze and Okowity Drake. And beyond Poland’s own borders, we’re delighted to stock international big hitters in our portfolio, for instance, Tito’s and Gray Goose.

Showcasing rye, wheat and potatobased vodkas, our choice is extensive and available both by the bottle or by the glass: the only trait you’ll find they share is that each is unique and utterly special!

Get Cultured!

Sour cream, pepper, honey, buckwheat or cereal: these are just some of the unexpected aromas you’ll find in our vodkas. From creamy potatobased vodka to spicy rye-focused vodka, you’ll learn to balance a little on the tongue before finishing it off – despite popular belief, we’ll demonstrate that vodka can be savored as if it were a wine.

And like wine, we firmly believe that vodka is ideally partnered with food. Offering food and alcohol pairings, we’re always looking for flavors that either compliment or contrast with each other, thereby maximizing the enjoyment of both the food and drink that lies in front: only at WuWu do the nuances of vodka become truly clear.

Bistro Bar WuWu Pl. Konesera 1 (Centrum Praskie Koneser), wuwu.bar

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drink! Listings bars & pubs 2Koła Sat in the abandoned backspaces and brickyards behind Zachodnia station, 2Koła feels like Warsaw’s dirtiest little secret. Still stained and smelling of grease and oil, this former garage is piled high with dented sofas, warehouse palettes and motorcycling detritus. Yet the supremely friendly owners have turned this shadowy lair into a cult bar that’s specifically celebrated for rowdy jam sessions that cover everything from ragtime to rockabilly. ul. Tunelowa 2B The Alchemist A small place with a big bag of tricks: upscale pub grub from the British chef, fancy cocktails, and a self-serve wall of beer from a choice of global brewers.

Poland’s still getting used to the idea of ‘a pint after work’, but in The Alchemist the idea of a post-office drink seems so very right. (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 3, thealchemist.pl

12, beirut.com.pl

Bohemia You have to credit them for trying something different, but by going for a slick, corpo style Bohemia have completely missed ‘the essence of Czechia’. Filled with smooth wood and gleaming glass, it feels more boardroom than beer hall (actually, make that bored room). What goes right? The beer. Poured from a ‘tank’ system designed to maintain your beer’s freshness, it’s every bit as good as drinking straight from the tit of Pilsner’s own brew master. (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, bohemiarestaurant.pl

Bar Pacyfik Seemingly based upon the kind of Tijuana dive bar you’d have happened upon during the Miami Vice era, Pacyfik is all candy floss pink and shades of teal: a raw-looking den that looks purposefully imperfect. Keeping the hip international crowd on the wrong side of drunk are kick-ass drinks such as their Clamado Michelada or Kimchi Bloody Mary – three sips and you think you’re Superman. (C5)

Central Bar

ul. Hoża 61

Centrum Zarządzania Światem Covering a couple of levels (and including a secret room snuck behind a bookcase), this social-cultural space is best described as a composition of molecules that celebrate the suburb: balustrades from Targowa street, street lights from Park Praski and no shortage of murals from local talents. And the toilets? Step inside a cargo container. Something of a multi-use environment, you might walk into a flamenco evening one night and improv comedy performances the next.

Bar Studio The dehumanizing dimensions of the Palace of Culture are softened in warmer weather when Pl. Defilad turns into a quasi-party zone. Should it rain, seek shelter under the covered colonnades: there’s room for everyone. And with no nearby residents to pester, it’s just about one of the only places in Warsaw where noise is never an issue – scream and no-one cares. Inside, the gaudy, echoey interiors are juxtaposed against an arty events program that includes book launches, silent discos, communal breakfasts and gramophone nights. (C4) Pl. Defilad 1, barstudio.pl

Beirut & Kraken Somewhere, amid all the junk relating to the Lebanese conflict (grenades,

sandbags, ammo boxes, a rocket…), you’ll find the spirit of Poznańska contained within this long, skinny bar. As fashionable now as it was when it opened, forget not to finish the evening in their connecting venture, the Pirates of the Caribbean-style Kraken Rum Bar. Everybody else does at some stage or other, with evenings often dissolving into a wild, happy whirl of international voices. (D5) ul. Poznańska

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The natural focal point of Hala Koszyki is the Central Bar, a long, long space serving microbrews and classic cocktails such as Pimm’s under a spectacular wrought iron ceiling. Not many places feel as international, and three years after opening it remains one of Warsaw’s top check-ins. Talent spotting doesn’t get any better. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki)

(F1) ul. Okrzei 26, centrumswiata.com

Chłodna 25 After several closures, noise clampdowns and a change in management you’d imagine C25 to be a mere shadow of what it once was. But after a slow start the new management have rescued this listing

vessel and returned it to it best. On the ground floor it’s a place of creaking floorboards and retro armchairs, while the basement gets opened for experimental music nights and improvised orchestras.

(B3) ul. Chłodna 25, klubchlodna25.pl

Gram Head up the stairs from Warmut (see Cocktails) to uncover Gram, a small room designed to evoke the feeling of stepping inside a circus tent. Set with arcade games (Pac-Man! Space Invaders!!), it’s a super fun space with a fridge of craft beers and quirky little details: look up and you’ll find monkey figures parachuting from the ceiling! You are, in effect, inside a playground for adults. (D6) ul.

Marszałkowska 45/49

Foton It’s good, seriously good. Part of that is down to a design that’s startlingly simple yet beautifully composed: think raw materials, steel frames and a vast, green fleet of tumbling plants. The F&B ain’t bad, either. Pimped up Latin American street food is the order of the day, and it all rhymes well with a drinks menu involving exotica such as chili mango margaritas. The later it gets, the better it is.

(E5) ul. Wilcza 9A, fb.com/foton.bar

Jaś & Małgosia Insouciant one moment, your best friend the next, the staff at Jaś & Małgosia show the two faces of Polish service brilliantly.

Reactivated a couple of years ago, this pavilion bar has a story dating back to the 60s, and a great atmosphere primed for plates of simple food, shots of vodka and bottles of local beer. A cornerstone of Muranów, the diversity of the crowd says much for the warmth of the overall atmosphere. (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 57, klubjasimalgosia.pl

Koko & Roy Already appearing in our Restaurant section, a growing reputation for long, merry nights is enough to earn Koko & Roy a second listing in the mag. Drink carefully composed cocktails and craft beers from the epic Stu Mostow brewery in an American-run resto-bar that’s starting to attract the full gamut of expat nationalities. An upmarket but quirky décor (Princess Leah on the wall, Antony Bourdain in the toilet) is matched by a maverick playlist, spontaneous

Drink! Listings atmosphere and open hours that have a habit of becoming seriously flexible when the weekend arrives. (D5) ul. Wilcza 43 Legends Run by Graham, an ex-embassy bod and devout Everton fan (well, someone has to be), this Brit pub has become the de facto choice when the football is on. Or the rugby. Or the cricket. Or just about any other sport that expats care to watch.

Whether it’s the Champions League or Bristol City on a wet, Tuesday night, there’s just no better space for boozy banter while the match unfolds. (C5) ul.

Świetlica Long and narrow, dark and murky, it’s as raw as they come: toilets of grubby menace, a smoking room clad in spray can art, broken fittings and general gloom.

Basically, it’s everything you demand from the last bar of the night – a place where you can slide into the shadows and watch the world spin around. (E7)

Emilii Plater 25, legendsbar.pl

ul. Marszałkowska 17

Offside Located opposite a mural of a giant goose and a gaudy statue of retro football star Kazimierz Deyna, this wreck announces its intention from the off with a piece of graffiti over the bar declaring that, “this is not a f***ing cocktail bar”.

Despite the somewhat threatening slogan, it’s a place of amiable anarchy and warm camaraderie. The neo Berlin aesthetic sits well with a crowd composed of maverick artists, local radicals and volunteers from Poland’s first ‘democratic’ football club, AKS ZŁY. (G1) ul. Brzeska 16

Targowy God knows what their secret potion is, but it’s probably something to do with a democratized offer that has something for all: craft beers, hardcore vodkas, decent cocktails and a staff that’s friendly, enthusiastic and always ready with a one-liner. The design is basic (plastic crates, blue lights), but they don’t need anything more to make it feel special. (B3)

Plan B Plan B is the very essence of dive Warsaw. Weekends pass by in a raucous blur, with the party spilling out under the colonnades outside – it helps to look like a DJ, but in truth everyone is welcome to this hive of debauchery. (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), planb.pl

Praska For Praga at its craziest and most creative, Praska doesn’t disappoint.

Beers from Brooklyn Brewery keep the open-minded crowd lubricated with other amusements arriving in the form of regular DJs and a quite extraordinary interior: Christmas lights, giant, toy tigers, heaps of plants and other scrapyard finds dominate what rates as our weirdest discovery of 2019. (G1) Brzeska 23

Stixx A slick industrial design and a location in the long shadow of the Warsaw Spire keeps this venue’s huge dimensions occupied with workers fleeing their offices

once the clock strikes five. Even with the terrace roof now rolled back in for winter, there aren’t many better spots in which to enjoy the noble tradition of an after-work pint. (A4) Pl. Europejski 4A, stixx.pl

Pl. Mirowski 1

Ulubiona Set inside the archway, look for a heavy door next to a dented ashtray seemingly unemptied for the last couple of months.

Shadowy and shabby, you’ll usually find barflies strumming guitars or engrossed in a solo game of chess. An intensely personal experience, it’s a bar that compensates for its lack of glitz with a stoner-style ambiance that soon sweeps over all. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 27 W Oparach Absurdu Somewhere, buried beneath the Persian rugs, dusty velvety drapes and wobbling antiques, you may find a bar. On your way, obstacles in this louche dive may include vodka fueled grans, scriptwriting beatniks and the trumpet tooting members of the Bum Bum Orchestra.

Expect the unexpected. (F1) ul. Ząbkowska 6, oparyabsurdu.pl

Warszawa Powiśle The prime months for this former ticket booth arrive each summer when the deckchairs outside provide ample opportunity for the city’s young and fashionable to gather in an almost carnival-like atmosphere. Once seen as the hipster Center of

EPIC PUB CRAWL! An alternative world of swirling smoke and cackling laughter, the pavilion bars are ensconced in local legend. Looking jumbled and sounding chaotic, it takes a second or two to adjust. Or, more pertinently, a shot or two. And you’ll find these in abundance.

Approximately twenty bars occupy a series of low-budget, prefabricated cabins, presenting possibly the highest concentration of bars in the capital.

While seen from a birds eye perspective this collection of scuzzy pavilions form an upside-down T-shape, from the ground they feel almost maze-like. Emanating a warm glow, reddish lights pour from the windows, glinting off the puddles that invariably collect in the shattered paving slabs outside.

Adding to the gentle sense of confusion comes the realization that so many bars look the same – accessed through clattery, barred doors, visitors walk into what can only be described as murk.

From the traditional favorites, PRL-themed Pewex has long been a pre-Luzztro muster point thanks to its firm commitment to electronic sound. At Komix, walls come sheathed in scenes from Marvel while Precedens go for a harder vibe by matching their rock policy with A4 posters of legendary acts. As for the most infamous?

Step inside Klaps, a bar boldly decorated with dildo beer taps and illuminated boobs: with that in mind, is it really a surprise to find drinks called Flogger, Punisher and Gangbang on the menu?

Though it’s easy to write the pavilions off as a student zone, doing so misses the mark. Sure, there’s a heavy presence of Erasmus types, but find these bolstered by representatives from all walks of life – crowd-wise, you won’t find a more democratic audience in the whole of the city. And as such, neither will you find a night that’s quite as wild and unpredictable as an evening spent here.

The Pavilions Nowy Świat 22/28, pawilonynowyswiat.pl

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drink! Listings Power, it still maintains great popularity with whiskered, tattooed sorts. (E4) ul. Kruc-

light, bright spot with a dynamic style and a keen sense of sexy. (D5) ul. Wilcza 42, fb.

lective fixed up by Poland’s AeroPress and Brewers Cup champion. (C3) ul. Elektoralna

zkowskiego 3B, warszawapowisle.pl

com/coffeedeskwilcza

11, forum.coffee

Wozownia

Cophi The phrase three’s a crowd could have been coined with Cophi in mind. Its super-snug dimensions are ideal for an afternoon spent curled up on an armchair watching the leaves tumble down on Hoża outside. A passion project whose small footprint is counterbalanced by the depth of its offer, the living room vibe mounts when the temperatures start dropping and the interiors act as a beacon to the public. (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60

Kawiarnia Fabryczna A place to eavesdrop, catch-up on gmail and daydream the morning away, head to this warm den to sink inside comfy retro chairs and bask in the natural light that pours through the window. Prepared on a Nuova Simonelli machine, the coffee hails from a range of pedigree roasters such as Warsaw’s own Coffee Lab. Creaky wooden floorboards, local artwork and nonobtrusive colors make it a prime perch after an autumn prowl through the parks of Powiśle. (F5) ul. Fabryczna 28/30

Founded by the same people behind the ‘ruin bar’ inside the original Hala Koszyki (back when it was a decrepit pile of wobbly, black stonework), Wozownia brings together the hip and beautiful inside a 200-year-old carriage house. Accessed through a discreet pink-lit passage, and decked out with crates of herbs and flowering plants, the courtyard feels like a cool, private realm. Warsaw’s cheapest Prosecco ensures a high headcount of head-swivelling glamor pusses. (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 16

cafés

Być Może It’s all about artisan bread and breakfast in the industrial looking Być Może. It’s taken the concept of Charlotte (groan, there’s even a communal table), and improved it with excellent breads and a crowd that’s a little less pleased with itself. (E7) ul. Bagatela 14, bycmoze.com.pl Coffeedesk Looking flawless in her pearl white colors, Coffeedesk is a place that does it right.

Brewed by expert coffeeologists, the humble cup of Joe becomes an object of adoration. Populated round-the-clock by head-phoned freelancers and digital nomads tapping into their Macs, it’s a

FatWhite_CoffeeBar Attached to the hippest barber shop in town (tatts, beards and crazy whiskers!), the presence of this pocket-sized café gives Muranów a fresh, bold swagger.

Coffee aside (the cold brew rocks), the disarmingly friendly staff and locals generate one of the best café scenes for miles whilst the collection of toy figures (Bart Simpson, DC action heroes and a gun-toting Pacino) feels brilliantly off-beat. (C1) ul. Andersa 6 Forum Born with Instagram in mind, Forum has it all: super cool Afro-haired staff, a fashionably frayed interior, and a devoted client base that’s all about out-sized headphones and razor-thin laptops.

Changing weekly, the big pull is a menu of specialty coffees from acclaimed roasters such as Five Elephant and The Coffee Col-

Hałas Vinyl + Coffee At 15 sq/m it’s a squeeze but Hałas doesn’t half pack a punch within its small footprint. Doubling as a friendly record store, it’s the kind of place where super hip punters stock up on Winehouse and Bjork while ordering up coffee ordered from roasters such as London’s Dark Arts roastery. Find their younger sister operating in a chilled out basement on Saska Kępa’s Elsterska 10 – it’s impossible to say which we prefer. ul. Jagiellońska 30 Relaks Now in their ninth year of business, any Hall of Fame (suburban or otherwise) just wouldn’t feel complete without the inclusion of this evergreen institution. Jacketed in chipboard panels and retro posters, the buzz about Relaks has lasted so long as to become ingrained in their DNA. (E9) ul.

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NEED A VENUE FOR A FAMILY GATHERING OR BIRTHDAY PARTY? CAFE PRZYGODA IS THE PLACE!

- Loads of fun in the indoor playground!

- Family events & birthday parties - Workshops for children (inc. sensory activities and "Gordon's Musical Learning") - Dance and acting classes

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Relax Na Wilczej An updated upgrade of the original Relax found downtown, this modern day success story maximizes all available space and light with a clean-lined interior that’s embellished by a scattering of coffee tomes and a statement mural by Mariusz Tarkawian. A cracking edition to the capital’s line-up of alt. coffee haunts.

(D5) ul. Wilcza 17, fb.com/RelaxNaWilczej

kontakt@cafeprzygoda.pl tel. 602 410 420 ul. Bobrowiecka 10

Stor A giant presence on the coffee map of Warsaw, Stor is the ultimate feelgood café: a place of slanting shadows and streaming sunlight, the irresistible ambience is matched only by peerless coffee prepared by expert baristas. (E3) ul. Tamka 33

Drink! Listings clubs Enklawa Forget Tinder, Enklawa is the best pick-up joint around – a classic kitschy, glitzy disco, it draws in huge crowds with a simple lineup of pop and dance hits. Still regarded as the best Wednesday night in Warsaw, it’s the place for singletons looking for a one-night confidence boost.

(D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, enklawa.com

Luztro Don’t sit down, you don’t know what you might catch! Dark and generally grubby, Warsaw’s most (in)famous club only gets going around about three. As the hours click towards daybreak, the scenes of depravity are like something from Sodom and Gomorrah. Enjoyed by zombies that quite definitely don’t have to be up for work anytime in the next 48 hrs, it’s not just the full-on techno that will leave the brain rattling – it’s the craziest night in Poland! (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, luztro.pl

Mr. Oh A semi-secret world for those In The Know, find Mr. Oh in one of the Harry Potter towers that prop up Poniatowski Bridge. Dark, decadent and redolent of an after-hours members club, this latest concept from Enio Chłapowski-Myjak (formerly of 6 Cocktails) is firmly on its way to becoming the coolest address in town. Late nights, Asian-themed cocktails and an A-list crowd await: full report soon! (F4) Al. 3 Maja / ul. Kruczkowskiego, mr-oh.com

Ritual Looking dark and sensual, this two-level space unwraps before you like some elaborate adventure. Candles flicker, atmosphere crackles – moving towards the bar, slinky, sultry club creatures of unfathomable beauty prowl past with drinks poised in hand. Heating up gradually as the night progresses, Ritual moves organically from being a voluptuous bar to a spicy club as the night ebbs towards

its heady conclusion. (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, ritualwarsaw.com

Sen Entering this top-floor joint, visitors are hit by a tidal wave of gorgeousness: wallto-wall with George Clooney lookalikes, off-duty celebrities and catwalk glamor pusses, the carefree hedonism is like something from a film – only tonight, you’re one of the stars. Sod the bank account, you think, bring me champagne: enjoy just that on a terrace deck slung with Edison bulbs, or indoors in an area festooned with deluxe sofas and floor-to-ceiling windows that stare out onto the National Stadium opposite. (F4) ul.

Wioślarska 6

Spatif Just a smashing night all round: from jazzy singers to funk and soul via a dose of Britpop, the ever likeable Spatif is what Warsaw needs – a place that’s not up its own arse! A labyrinth of pre-war

A F R E N C H R E V E L AT I O N REDOLENT OF A PARISIEN COURTYARD BAKERY, YOU’LL SMELL THE AROMA OF OUR FRESHLY BAKED BREAD FROM DAWN. OPEN THROUGH THE DAY, WE’RE DELIGHTED TO SERVE OUR FAMOUS BREAKFASTS, TRADITIONAL PASTRIES NOT TO MENTION A SELECTION OF WINES FOR YOUR DINNER. WE LOOK FORWARD TO WELCOMING YOU.

Być Może

ul. Bagatela 14

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drink! Listings chambers add atmosphere, as does the kind of basement smoking room that encourages obscure chat with indiscriminate strangers. Spatif’s main success lies in replicating the spontaneous feel of a house party that’s spiraled out of control.

(E5) al. Ujazdowskie 45, klubspatif.pl

Syreni Śpiew Koneser Almost mad in the scale of its vision, the multi-floor set up is a big, sexy mash of steel stairs, plush sofas and industrial ephemera. Cocktails are flawless and enjoyed by a glam, pussycat crowd that ranges from downright delicious to the kind of club creatures that stop you dead in your tracks. As for the weekend parties, these are an exercise in excess with all kinds of lunacy breaking out all around: trapeze artists, sword swallowers, burlesque dancers and more. (G1) Pl.

name isn’t there for window dressing.

The modern design, DJs and drinks work seamlessly to generate an ambiance that’s buzzy, energetic and something of a scene. Cocktail-wise, order Warsaw’s best Pisco Sour or explore a ‘Nikkei’ card that blends Peruvian and Japanese ingredients to present truly unique tastes.

(C4) ul. Twarda 4, cevichebar.pl

Charlie Crowd: glam & vampy. The venue: equally so. Occupying the first floor of a pre-war tenement, there’s a magic here that summons the age of F. Scott Fitzgerald – Gatsby would love it. The ace in the pack is a ‘subconscious menu’ from which clients order mystery cocktails based on their scent. (E6) ul. Mokotowska 39

Konesera 4, fb.com/syrenispiew

cocktails Aura The mousehole dimensions of Aura are tempered by the tall ceilings and Moroccan-style design: dark, mysterious and intriguing, the overriding sentiment extends to the drinks, many of which incorporate Aura’s exhaustive collection of bourbons. Promoting the heavy use of swivelly chrome stools and Persian rugs, the heavy dose of retro glam is balanced out by a crowd that strays into the head turning category. Setting foot inside this secretive den of iniquity, you understand the fuss. ul. Hoża 27 Back Room Plush fabrics, muted lighting, intuitive service, a well-scrubbed crowd, a flickering fireplace and shelves displaying drinks as if they were trophies: the ambiance is nailed down to such an extent that those who use this speakeasy for pre-club drinks often find themselves skipping the club bit altogether. And why bother with anywhere else when you have masterpiece cocktails that are immaculate, imaginative and mixed with practiced expertise. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 49A Ceviche Bar Though primarily celebrated for their Latin American menu, the ‘bar’ part of the

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The Cuba Libre Rum & Cigar House Envelope yourself in luxury at Cuba Libre, a nothing-spared venture aimed at those who deal with nothing but the best.

Gathering the bright and the beautiful inside stunning tobacco-colored interiors, the warming ambiance is primed for an evening of cigars and conversation over pedigree-style cocktails. Full review next issue. (D5) ul. Poznańska 37, thecubalibre.pl Dom Wódki Those expecting Dom Wódki to be a standard mucky shot bar are in for a surprise.

Sparkling with over 250 artisanal vodkas, find them incorporated into inspirational drinks mixed by Tomasz Małek, a world champion flair bartender. More than just show, the tastes are incredible. (C2) ul.

Kita Koguta The staff aren’t afraid to get imaginative, and that includes serving cocktails in smoking coconut husks. Aimed at a younger crowd largely in their 20s, it’s a good-humored, lively cocktail bar that’s famed around the country for the creativity of its bartenders. Next door, visit their sister bar, Kiti. Dominated by a tall Polynesian totem, this ray of sunshine gets noted for extravagant cocktails served by game staff in zany shirts. (E5) ul. Krucza 6/14

Long Bar Decked out with smooth marble, natural oak, striking art and soft tan leather, it’s a venue that writes a new chapter in the 160-year story of the venerable Europejski Hotel. Luxurious while never being excessive or ostentatious, there’s a calming sense of class that feels elegant yet relaxed: expensive, yes, prohibitive, no.

Intuitive service, sophisticated drinks and an interior that feels timeless yet historic in equal measure – for the full Raffles experience, order from their choice of signature Slings. (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13 (Raffles Europejski), raffles. com/warsaw

Podwale Bar & Books T Occupying the kind of charismatic R C P T M you’d read about in Dickens, gatehouse C W position ≈ yourself in front of the upstairs W C fireplace ≈ for a celebratory cigar and a C C glass of≈ something tall and lovely: the T cocktails ≈ are in a class of their own and P E specifically customized for the season. ≈ L S Spooling, silent Bond films, regular P B B burlesque shows and random decorative monkey figures add an unexpected ‘element of weird’. (D2) ul. Wąski Dunaj HE MOST

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Górskiego 9, elkoktel.pl

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El Koktel The pert and pretty are here, so too the well-groomed modern man, but there’s a balance to the crowd that prevents any whiff of snob. As a bar it feels open-minded, engaging and intelligent, and those are traits that rub off on those present. Drinks – such as the smoking Out Of The Box – are insanely good, and served in a small, high-ceilinged interior busy with framed vintage posters, cyan-colored wallpaper, baffling photos of Lynch-esque scenes and gleaming strainers and shakers. (D4) ul. Wojciecha

HISKY

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Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl

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Wąski Dunaj 20, 00-256 Warsaw Tel.: +48 225.599.199

20, barandbooks.pl

Weles Named after the Slavic god of the underworld, everything about Weles evokes the spirit of indulgence: a zinc 1920s ceiling imported from the States, V O L i n Y a P a crystal chandelier and a wooden bar www.barandbooks.pl carved from a British carousel. A work of refined craftsmanship, the cocktails stand out as the most sophisticated in the city. n

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(D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 11, welesbar.pl

Drink! Listings craft beer Craft Beer Muranów Humble and unpretentious, CBM’s rising stock has been reflected by their recruitment of Marcin Chmielarz, one of the best-known ‘beer managers’ in Poland.

But even before him, this basic-looking joint was already making ripples for its consistency: a dodgy pint is totally unheard of. (B1) ul. Andersa 23, fb.com/ craftbeermuranow

Cuda Na Kiju Opened six years back (gosh, that long!?), Cuda remains a star of the summer. With 15 tap beers to get sloshed on, the mixed crowd does just that on a sprawling, sun-lapped terrace that begins out front and then snakes into the shaded courtyard of the former Commie Party HQ. But even outside the sweaty months Cuda is worth the visit: drink inside a modern, glass cube that’s refreshingly contemporary. (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 6/12

Drugie Dno The natural start (or finish) point of any Nowogrodzka pub crawl, head to The Double D for a space that conjures to mind a disused power station: sporting rugged brickwork and a scuffed style, the neo-industrial look is ramped up with the liberal use of steel girders, vintage voltage meters and toilets disguised as elevator shafts. Sixteen taps to drink through, many of them offering extreme drinking solutions from Europe’s most radical breweries. Looks great, tastes great, a factor that ensure a male-to-female ratio that feels roughly equal. Equally interested, is their Ochota location on leafy Tarczyńska 5/9. (D5) ul.

Nowogrodzka 4

Jabeerwocky Drowned in boisterous babble and general pub racket, the affable Jabbers is home to what most rate as the most adventurous choice of craft beer in the city: pioneering international brewer-

ies are well represented, but don’t overlook the sensational drinks produced by Jabeerwocky’s very own master brewer. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 12, taproom.pl

Kufle i Kapsle Found somewhere round the top of Warsaw’s hierarchy of craft beer bars, Kufle welcomes all, from entry level novices taking their first steps in the beery world to note-taking nerds conducting research for their blogs. Interiors are respectful of the building’s pre-war heritage and are thick with noise, clamor and the reassuring smell of spillage. The edgy beer selection becomes is even more radical when you look down in the fridge. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 25 Maryensztadt Craft Beer You need not go far to escape the baying mob of tourists that stampede through the Rynek. Just round the

HOW DOES IT LOOK LIKE IN THE WORLD OF RUMS AND CIGARS? Convince yourself and visit the new successful bar concept of The Cuba Libre Rum & Cigar House, which also comes to our city. On the map of Warsaw you will find this bar, where you will experience the superb experience associated not only with rums and cigars.

The Cuba Libre Rum & Cigar House is not just about rums and cigars. Experienced bartenders guarantee excellent cocktails according to your taste. Do you like classics like Daiquiri, Mojito or Cuba LIbre or do you prefer to experiment with new �lavors? No problem for our bartenders.

Whether you like rums, cocktails, cigars or other drinks at �e Cuba Libre Rum & Cigar House, you are always welcome.

Cuba Libre, Warszawa

thecubalibre

www.thecubalibre.pl

+48 668 105 452

Poznańska 37, Warszawa 00-689

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drink! Listings corner, Maryensztadt occupies a charming cobbled corner of the city’s Old Town that feels serene and picturesque. It isn’t just beer buffs that it appeals to: sourcing their ingredients from small-scale farmsteads, the kitchen wing of Maryensztadt does a convincing job of representing the tastier side of regional Poland. (D1) ul. Szeroki Dunaj 11

Mikkeller Bar Warsaw A complete geek-gasm of ultra-niche, rare foreign finds, the onus on Scandinavian beers guarantees steep prices that have been known to reach (and even exceed) the zł. 50 mark. Ouch. In return, you’re getting blinding beers that break brewing boundaries – past examples include yuzu Berliner Weisse, triple barrel-aged imperial beetroot stout and watermelon & pomegranate IPA. Not for cheapskates, if nothing else the presence of a Mikkeller pub makes Warsaw feel a well-rounded, 21st century city. (D4) ul. Chmielna 7/9, fb.com/MikkellerBarWarsaw

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for gentlemen Playhouse Housed in a former subterranean bomb shelter, the talk now is of bombshells: namely the 57 stunners they’ve got listed on their books. Inspired by high class joints in London and Vegas, it’s a refined choice with a no-pressure atmosphere and door staff that don’t look like they’re going to kick your head in. (B3) Al. Solidarności 82A, playhouse.pl

live music Hydrozagadka / Chmury Set out in the wildlands of Praga, consider this pair of neighboring venues as the definition of unforced cool. Known for their alternative music scene, the lowceilings and their tight, crowded confines

generate an electrifying atmosphere where the audience and band become one. Walking a fine line between industrial and straight out decrepit, the ambiance is second to none: drinks flow, strangers meet and music smashes out – you can feel something special happening here. ul. 11 Listopada 22 Klub Pogłos Scuzzy and a bit seamy, this alt. performance venue gives Warsaw an interesting, if not utterly random direction with an events schedule that involves spoken word performances, vegan BBQs, old skool rave nights and hardcore gigs from bands with names like Cancer Bats and Moscow Death Brigade. They’ve had bingo nights, as well – hosted by Charlotte Drag Queer. In a city that’s always felt a little lacking in the ‘live’ department, Pogłos punches past sensibility to present evenings that are raw, uncompromising and always high on action. ul. Burakowska 12

Drink! Listings Pardon To Tu Prepare for a heady swirl of innovative sounds, with the foggy atmosphere given a helping hand by an unorthodox audience that gels together into one vibrant mass. Set across two floors, find bordello colors set against a wall of glory namechecking the obscure musical heroes through which this venue channels its spirit. Adding an extra layer of depth to Warsaw’s social scene with its flexi hours, maverick music policy and air of unforced cool, PTT win brownie points for their cool craft beers and cracking focaccia. (D6) Al. Armii Ludowej 14, pardontotu.pl

white sail; but winters aren’t too shabby either – lose yourself within a warren of warmly-lit rooms that feel snug, intimate and even a little rustic. The choice of 250 plus wines is supported by some of the best cooking in the city. (E5) ul. Mokotowska 48, alewino.pl

Bubbles Behold, the city’s most prodigious choice of champagne! Though price points can climb high, more affordable options are prevalent. Excellent cocktails, wonderful slow food choices and a charmingly cluttered interior add to the appeal. (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, bubbles.com.pl

wine bars

Kieliszki Na Hożej Go on, count them: hanging tantalizingly over the bar are 1,116 glasses, a testament to Kieliszki’s promise to serve all the wines they have by the glass. Enjoy them on a cobbled street that’s been magnificently restored to its pre-war prime. (D5)

Ale Wino!

Summers here are magical, with drinkers congregating on a courtyard Warsaw Insider reklama PVM half_page_H_144x102.ai deck shielded from the sun by a slanted ul. Hoża 41

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Mielżyński Wine Bar Tangled in vines and creeping ivy, this brick warehouse comes into its element each summer when drinkers pile outside to drink amid rustling trees and pristine lawns. Set within a former factory compound, the area has been revived with the legendary Mielżyński Wine Bar at its core. A flagbearer when it comes to consistency and quality, this post-industrial space remains a default favorite of the Warsaw public. (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7 (also on Czerska 12), mielzynski.pl

Nowina The striking interior that catches the eye from across the street – restored pre-war tiling, glinting surfaces, a world map rendered from corks and an engaging reddish glow all do their bit to lend Nowina the kind of atmosphere that’s missing in most local wine bars. Add to that an exciting international menu and a selection of over 400 wines and you have an absolute winner. (D4) ul. Nowogrodzka 4, nowina.waw.pl

POLISH VODKA MUSEUM

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Centrum Praskie Koneser Plac Konesera 1 Warszawa

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STEALING THE LIMELIGHT!

Entered via a 75-meter tunnel of light, for the last few years the gardens of Wilanów Palace have been thrilling visitors with their spectacularly hallucinogenic winter illuminations. Not unlike following Alice through the looking glass, those who enter find themselves inside a stunning trail of shimmering oddities that culminate with the Garden of Dreams, a surreal world that takes visitors journeying past vivid and fantastical installations whilst tunes from Vivaldi and Tchaikovsky are piped in the background. It’s a magical, almost mystical experience, and one best enjoyed when flurries of snow gently fall from above.

Royal Garden of Light

SHUTTERSTOCK

ul. Stanislawa Kostki Potockiego 10/16 (Wilanów Palace), wilanow-palac.pl Open: 4:00 p.m. till 9:00 p.m. (last entry at 8:00 p.m.).

Admission: zł. 10 / 5 (free for children under 7)

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THE MAGNIFICENT SEVEN!

Warsaw’s rich history and cultural significance has left it with no shortage of museums to visit. Offering a well-rounded view of the city’s past and present, these are the seven you just shouldn’t miss…

N AT I O N A L M U S E U M Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars. That’s reason enough for many, but for others the museum’s ace card was revealed at the end of 2017 with the opening of the Gallery of Polish Design. Offering a full 360 view of Polish 20th century applied arts, it’s an aesthetic joy featuring everything from iconic PRL era wall units and tulip chairs to kitschy toys and gizmos.

Frankly, it’s stunning. Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl T H E WA R SAW R I S I N G M U S E U M When it comes to the definitive story of the insurgency, the Warsaw Rising Museum leaves no stone unturned. If the throngs and sheer informational overload can often be daunting, it remains the most important museum in the capital, and quite arguably the country. Points of interest are rife and include a life-size replica of a B-24 Liberator plane as well as a claustrophobic ‘sewage tunnel’ through which visitors squeeze to get an idea of the kind of conditions combatants once faced. But it’s not the A-list sights that make the biggest impact, rather the smaller, highly personal curios: a pair of wedding bands forged from bullets; an Omega watch, it’s hands frozen at the same moment a bomb killed its owner; and a lucky cuddly mascot made from a German overcoat. Of course, the aftermath is also covered in heartrending detail and concludes with a 3D film that takes viewers swooping over the smoldering ruins of the capital. ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl MUSEUM OF LIFE UNDER COMMUNISM A deeply personal insight into the former system by allowing visitors to view what Communism meant to the everyday person. Here, rifle and rummage through a room mocked-up to resemble a typical household apartment, watch propaganda films, peer inside a phone box, paw at vintage keep-fit gear or covet the ladies fashions of the time. Detailed in its captions, witty in its presentation and comprehensive in its content, it is a place where normal items such as aftershave bottles, postcards, clothing and crude household appliances are allowed to shine on a totem and tell their own story. A haven of trinkets and collectibles, its small size belies its utter magic. ul. Piękna 28/34, mzprl.pl

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FRYDERYK CHOPIN MUSEUM

M U S E U M O F WA R SAW

The 18th century Ostrogski Palace is the perfect foil for the ultra-modern content of this multi-sensory space.

The personal items are captivating (his death mask, gifts from his muse, etc.), but the big victory here is the museum’s ability to suck visitors right back into the times of Chopin through the use of interactive sights and sounds. ul. Okólnik 1, chopin.museum

Reprised as a maze-like treasure filled trove glimmering with curiosities, thousands of objects have been gathered here to detail the story of Warsaw in a non-linear style that can at times feel overwhelming.

Peculiar souvenirs, scale models, old postcards and recovered works of art all combine with a mass of trivia to leave visitors boggled with knowledge. The vertiginous views of the Rynek below are worth the admission alone. Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42, muzeumwarszawy.pl

NEON MUSEUM

Playing a key role in the government’s attempts to fuse socialist ideology with consumerism, the campaign to ‘neon-ize’ Poland saw gloomy cities still bearing the scars of war boldly gleam once more under lights designed and produced by many of the leading artisans of the time. Salvaged from the scrapheap (in many instances, literally), this museum houses several dozen neons that once lit up the capital and beyond. Beautiful in every respect, these renovated signs make for Warsaw’s coolest attraction: Instagram them now! ul.

Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org

POLIN

Composed of eight galleries, this architectural marvel covers different stages of local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day. Highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec synagogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical inter-war Jewish Warsaw street. That it was named the European Museum of the Year in 2016 such much for its ambitions to focus on more than the Holocaust alone. ul.

Anielewicza 6, polin.pl

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PAW I A K

M A R I E S K ŁO D O W S K A - C U R I E M U S U E M

MUSEUMS Car Museum Home to over 300 vehicles, displays include a 1930s Polish-produced Buick, WWII trucks and tanks, a Ford Thunderbird and Buick Skylark.

From behind the Iron Curtain, car boffins will go bananas over the Russian-made Volgas, John Paul II’s Pope Mobile, and domestic classics such as the Syrena 104. ul. Warszawska 21 (Otrębusy), muzuem-motorzyacji. com.pl

Dulag 121 Though much is now known about the Warsaw Uprising, the fate of the civilians driven from their homes remains rather more murky. Dulag 121, a former prison and transit camp in Pruszków, redresses the balance by documenting this grim exodus in detail. On the NoM night tours of the grounds will be conducted by hisorians. ul. 3 Maja 8A (Pruszków), dulag121.pl

Earth Museum Staring at bits of rock and fossils isn’t everyone’s idea of fun, but a visit here isn’t

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necessarily a snore. The building itself is magnificent, and considered “one of the best achievements of contemporary Polish architecture as far as decorative stone is concerned.” The real curiosity, however, is the patch of blood left by an unknown soldier during the 1944 Warsaw Uprising. The stain has survived to this day. Al. Na Skarpie 20/26, mz.pan.pl

Ethnographic Museum Considerably revamped to meet the demands and attention-spans of the 21st century sightseer, the Ethnographic Museum is a visual pleasure that showcases colorful costumes, fabrics and ceramics from Poland and beyond. ul. Kredytowa 1, ethnomuseum.pl

The Heritage Interpretation Center This small venue tells the complex story of Old Town’s reconstruction: if the first section about Warsaw’s physical elimination is poignant, then the others do a fabulous job of sharing the optimism and alacrity that followed. ul. Brzozowa 11-13,

Warsaw Insider | JANUARY 2020

mhw.pl Jewish Historical InstituteOfficially opened in 1947 the Jewish Historical Institute was created to serve as an archive of Jewish culture in Warsaw. It contains artwork, historical artifacts and important documents from the city’s rich Jewish past. ul. Tłomackie 3/5, jhi.pl

Marie Skłodowska-Curie Museum Reopened after a significant re-haul, this museum celebrates the groundbreaking scientist that discovered polonium. The Curie-osities include lab equipment, her trademark black dress and even her nail file. ul. Freta 16, en.muzeum-msc.pl

Katyń Museum This museum commemorates the murder of 21,000 Polish officers by the Soviets in the spring of 1940. Beyond its quite staggering architectural merit, the museum has done a stunning job of collecting and presenting artifacts relating to the slaughter. ul. Jeziorańskiego 4, muzeumkatynskie.pl

Legia Warszawa Museum Marketed as Poland's biggest football club, this museum seeks to confirm this status with the usual spread of glinting silverware. More interesting are the weird bits and pieces: a chunk of the old floodlights, vintage match posters and a collection of paraphernalia connected to Legia’s favorite son – 80’s super star Kazimierz Deyna. ul. Łazienkowska 3

Miniature Park Magnificently detailed 1:25 scale models of Warsaw’s vanished, pre-war architectural treasures make this a stand-out little secret. Here, landmarks such as Saski Palace, the ‘summer theater’ and Żelazna Brama have been lovingly brought back from the dead in astonishing fashion. ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 66, miniaturymazowieckie.com

Museum of Praga The Praga Museum tells the story of the area with such charm and simplicity that it manages to leave an unlikely impression that’s as punchy as that of the big institutions.

Star billing goes to a restored Jewish prayer room and the Flying Carpet: an exhibit fes-

tooned with various trinkets and treasures once available for purchase from local pavement traders. ul. Targowa 50/52, muzeumwarszawy.pl

Palmiry National Memorial Museum An excellent multimedia exhibition set next to a cemetery holding the graves of 1,700 Poles executed in the first years of Nazi occupation.

The museum tells their forgotten story as well as that of the siege and subsequent occupation of Warsaw.

Palmiry, palmiry.mhw.pl

Pawiak What was once a Tsarist prison assumed a doubly sinister function under the Nazis. Some 100,000 Polish political prisoners were held here, 37,000 of which were executed on-site. Split in two sections, cells are found on one side, while on the other the full story of the invasion and occupation. ul. Dzielna 24/26

The Royal Castle in Warsaw Highlights include the lavishly restored 18th century royal apartments with 22 paintings

by Canaletto, the Senators’ Chamber in which the Constitution of the Third of May was signed, the biggest collection of oriental rugs in Europe and two remarkable Rembrandt paintings. Pl. Zamkowy 4, zamek-krolewski.pl Train Museum Inside, find 200 scale models of locomotives and steam engines, some beautifully detailed model villages and all kinds of train related ephemera: clocks, timetables, uniforms, etc. Outside is where the real anoraks head though, namely to clamber over fifty trains and carriages in various stages of life.

Top billing goes to a 1942 German armored artillery train, and the walnut-clad personal wagon once used by Poland’s first post-war leader, Bolesław Bierut. ul. Towarowa 3, stacjamuzeum.pl

EXPERIENCES Copernicus Science Centre Zillions of interactive exhibits allow visitors to experience an earthquake, walk on the moon, look at the world through the eyes of a snake and discover if your partner’s a good liar – and that’s the tip of the iceberg. ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, kopernik. org.pl

Fotoplastikon Thought to date from 1905, Warsaw’s Fotoplastikon generates 3D perspectives from a set of 2D images: visitors peer through an eyepiece and are taken on a trip around the world while music from days yore parps away in the background. Al. Jerozolimskie 51, fotoplastikonwarszawski.pl

Invisible Exhibition Head to the Invisible Exhibition to learn first-hand the challenges faced by the blind.

This includes everything from crossing the road to ordering a drink in a bar. Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, niewidzialna.pl

Obiekt Alfa If you think we live in scary times then a visit to this Cold War nuclear bunker is a timely reminder that it could all be worse. Built to house a top secret chemical research unit, it’s from here Poland’s medical operation would have been conducted in the event of the red button being pressed. Frozen in time, it’s super creepy. ul. Kozielska 4, CLOSED AT PRESS TIME

Pinball Station An unruly riot of beeps and flashes and jolly jingles, Pinball Station presents fifty plus machines from the pre-digital age. Can you touch them? Yes, yes and yes! For a flat rate of zł. 30, visitors can spend as much time as they have testing their skills on classics such as Dirty Harry, Buck Rogers and Revenge From Mars. ul. Kolejowa 8A,

particular interest for artists and intellectuals. ul. Jazdów 2, csw.art.pl

Dom Spotkań z Historią The History Meeting House wins points for small but frequently excellent exhibitions that cover topics such as ‘rebuilding Warsaw’ and ‘Socialist Realist architecture.’ ul. Karowa 20, dsh.waw.pl

pinballstation.pl

GALLERIES & EXHIBITION S PAC E S Caricature Museum Having recently fought off an attempt to merge it into the Museum of Warsaw, the museum still stands on its own feet fulfilling its mission to bring mirth and a bit of mayhem to Warsaw’s cultural scene. ul. Kozia 11, muzeumkarykatury.pl

CSW Situated in a baroque-style castle the center hosts artists from all over the world.

The on-site bookshop is of

Museum on the Vistula Previously used to temporarily house Berlin’s Kunsthalle, this riverfront pavilion has housed a number of edgy contemporary exhibitions including, most recently, one dedicated to the works of Daniel Rycharski. ul.

Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 22, artmuseum.pl

Zachęta National Art Gallery Regarded as one of Poland’s most prestigious galleries, the Zachęta has a busy program of temporary exhibitions that frequently showcase some of the biggest names in domestic and international contemporary art. Pl. Małachowskiego 3, zacheta.art.pl

w W a r s a www.city-tour.com.pl

Yellow Double-Decker Bus

Invites you to experience a panoramic tour of tourist attractions of the capital of Poland, Warsaw, in a relaxing and comfortable way.

Traveling over the course of approximately 1,5 hour, a double-decker bus will take you past many beautiful and interesting places of Warsaw, such as its interesting districts, palaces and churches, monuments and museums, parks and historical cemeteries, as well as the Jewish historical sites.

A GPS 12 language audio-guide, will give explanations and accompany you to make your ride a more adventurous, exciting and an unforgettable one.

Excellent Hop on Hop off and one trip service operates every day all year round.

5% DISCOUNT with this ad

Line approved by municipal authorities.

www.city-tour.com.pl

+48 500 033 414

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EXHIBITION Spring, Summer, WAR... Warsaw 1939 Till 31 Jan @ DSH, ul. Karowa 20 Opened to coincide with the 80th anniversary of the outbreak of World War II, this photographic exhibition examines life in Warsaw in 1939 – the year everything changed…

JANUARY FOR THE… KONESER Offering more than just a wealth of gastronomic options, Centrum Praskie Koneser has emerged as a thriving hub of arts and culture. The following events are free to attend and will take place in Pasaż Konesera.

Jan 1-30

Contemporary Jewelry Museum: an exhibition by Andrzej Boss.

Jan 1-31

House of Art: an exhibition featuring works by artists who will donate their works to charity. Open from 11 a.m. till 7 p.m.

Jan 21-31

Salon ASP Academy Gallery: “Gdansk-Warsaw”, an exhibition whose underlying narrative is the concept of color. The official launch is set for Jan 18, 6 p.m.

Jan 25-31

Galeria Targów Sztuki Dostępnej presents the works of Kacper Dudek. The opening takes place on the 25th at 5 p.m. All other times, view the exhibition between 11 a.m. and 7 p.m.

Jan 25-26

Contemporary Jewelry Museum: meet the artist behind the exhibition from between 11 a.m. and 7 p.m.

Jan 26

Galeria Belle Arte hosts a charity auction for the benefit of the Cultural Heritage Foundation.

Centrum Praskie Koneser Pl. Konesera, koneser.eu

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Sony, Think Tank Photo, Olympus and many more besides.

For info, see: pressphotoexpo. com

CONCERT Anthony Braxton

15-17 Jan @ Al. Armii Ludowej 14 (Pardon To Tu) Hailed as representing “the frontline of jazz”, For further info, see: dsh.waw.pl Anthony Braxton performs for three nights in Pardon To Tu as part of a quartet MARKET featuring the acclaimed Och! Bazar 12 Jan @ ul. Czarnieckiego pianist Alexander Hawkins.

A must for free jazz enthu51 (Fort Sokolnickiego) siasts.

Promoting upcoming Polish designers, this Tickets from zł. 89 market will see umpteen brands and labels present- ART ing the full gamut of Art Fair lifestyle / design essentials 26 Jan @ Royal Castle at post-Christmas bargain (Kubicki Arcades), Pl. prices.

Zamkowy 4 For info, see: ochbazar.pl Created ten years ago by both students and graduates of the Academy of CHARITY Fine Arts in Warsaw, find WOŚP the work of both groups on 12 Jan @ Various show in the atmospheric Locations arcades beneath the Poland’s biggest annual castle. Featuring works fundraiser celebrates its by established and debut 28th year with the usual round of street collections artists, the works include and one-off events, culmi- paintings, illustrations, photography, drawings, etc. nating in a concert at the foot of the Palace of Culture For further info, see: targowiskoand a giant firework sztuki.waw.pl display.

For info, see: wosp.org.pl

ARTS Warsaw Photo Expo

13 Jan @ venue undecided at press time Promoted as ‘a day of photography for photographers’, the seventh edition of the Warsaw Photo Expo will include numerous lectures and seminars led by several leading Polish photographers. Brands to be present include Canon, Nikon, Sony, Focus Nordic,

CONCERT James Arthur

30 Jan @ Stodoła, ul. Batorego 10 Having first found fame after winning X Factor in 2012, Arthur has gone on to become one of the planet’s biggest selling artists. Coming as part of a wider world tour, his setlist in Warsaw will include past hits and material from his latest album, You. Tickets from livenation.pl

CHOPIN MUSEUM

T H E R O YA L C A S T L E

COMMUNISM

THE ESSENTIALS...

Cut through the chaff and time manage your visit as effectively as possible.

THE OLD…

The Old Town, raised from the rubble after WWII, is symbolic of the ‘phoenix city’ that ‘survived its own death’.

The Royal Castle is a maze of fancy chambers and important paintings by the likes of Rembrandt and Canaletto, while the Museum of Warsaw offers a peerless peek into the complexities of Warsaw’s story: the view of the Old Town Square from the top is worth the admission alone. Close by, check out the city that once was at Park Miniatur, a beautiful exhibition displaying intricate scale models of the city’s pre-war architectural glories. To soak in the extravagances of Poland’s imperial years, take a walk around the immaculate Łazienki Park or, further out, visit Wilanów Palace: frequently nicknamed ‘the Polish Versailles’, the landscaped gardens are glorious at the best of times but even better when illuminated each winter as part of the Garden of Light project. Finally, tap into the very essence of the Polish soul by visiting the Vodka Museum on the right side of town.

WWII

Memories of WWII still cast a long shadow over the town. Learn about the 1944 Warsaw Uprising at The Rising Museum: it’s deservedly

rated as among the most important cultural institutions in the country.

Lesser known, the Old Town’s ‘Heritage Centre’ documents the destruction (and subsequent reconstruction) of the city, while three separate museums, Pawiak, Szucha and Katyń, cover equally somber chapters in Poland’s dark history. To get up close and personal to military hardware, visit the Polish Army Museum. Having marked the 70th anniversary of both the Nazi and Soviet aggression just last year, visiting all feels particularly relevant.

JEWISH WARSAW

Though largely flattened, the former Jewish Ghetto contains numerous memorials, among them the Umschlagplatz monument marking the spot where trains departed for the gas chambers of Treblinka (itself worthy of a day trip, if only to peruse the small museum and wander the forlorn, outdoor memorial). The one synagogue that survived (Twarda 6) is the center of local Jewish life, while the innovative Polin museum covers all aspects of this nation’s Jewish history. More old school in style, the Jewish Historical Institute often hosts thought provoking exhibitions linked to the wartime suffering of the Jewish population.

A full tour of Stalin’s Palace of Culture is essential: the basements (protected from rodents by a team of feline guardians) are intriguing and the top-floor viewing terrace unimpeachable. Explore the more ambient side to Communism in the Neon Museum and then head across town to check the the Czar PRL Museum (czarprl. pl). A warm and eccentric look at daily life under Communism, this fantastic museum is established as one of Warsaw’s quirkiest attractions. Lastly, take a look at what’s on at Dom Spotkań z Historią, a small exhibition space that specializes in interesting photo exhibits that delve into Warsaw’s past – though subject matter varies, the PRL era receives the lion’s share of attention.

MODERN WARSAW

Wonder amid rioting children and whirring machines in the Copernicus Science Centre and after, visit the university library to explore the stunning, cosmic rooftop garden. The Museum of Modern Art is a short walk away whilst across the water, the state-of-the-art National Stadium conducts regular tours and thrills both stadium geeks and football fans alike (in winter, find the pitch transformed into a ginormous ice rink). In the Old Town area, the Museum of Illusions promises a surrealistic dose of fun for all ages.

ART

Serious art lovers flock to the National Museum for its determined presentation of art through the ages – reserve time for their brilliantly retro Gallery of Polish Design. The Zachęta, the Modern Art Museum and CSW are more alternative with captivating exhibitions that excite non-conformists.

And keep your eyes peeled outside: some of the city’s best art is found on its walls – the Praga district is especially celebrated for its large format wall murals while Muranów is filled with smaller wall paintings often linked to the area’s past. warsawinsider.pl

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PARTNER

SPOTLIGHT

A JOURNEY THROUGH TIME

Familiarize yourself with one of Poland’s key cultural attractions…

T

he POLIN Museum’s core exhibition is a journey through a thousand years of history. When did Jews first appear in Poland? How did they grow to become the largest Jewish community in the world?

How was that community destroyed and, today, how is it being revived? Our historical artefacts, models, interactive installations, art works and multimedia presentations will help provide you with the answers to these and other questions. The exhibition shows how Polish Jews are a part of Polish history and that the history of Jews is incomplete without the Polish chapter. Inside, discover a story of cooperation and neighborliness, rivalry and conflict, separation and assimilation...

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BROUGHT TO YOU BY POLIN

Visit Whenever You Want!

You can explore the Museum’s exhibition in several ways – individually or in an organized group, on your own or with a guide. You can view the entire exhibition or focus on a selected topic or period in history. So, it’s worthwhile returning to the exhibition – to explore it again, but in a completely different fashion.

Inside Tips From POLIN!

• A thousand years is a very long time in history, so set

aside at least two hours for your visit. You can take a break at any time – your ticket is valid for the whole day.

During your break, you can visit the museum’s souvenir shop or the Besamim Restaurant where you can sample many Jewish delicacies.

• If you are planning a visit of at least nine people, you can buy a group discount ticket. In this instance, it is worthwhile considering the use of one of our guides. Several times each week, there are also guided tours for individual visitors entitled “A Thousand Year Journey Through the Core Exhibition”. Admission to the core exhibition is free on Thursdays.

• We welcome visitors with children. You can benefit from our discounted family tickets and from our Little POLIN booklets available at the cashier desk. You should also check to see if there is a guided tour for children and their guardians. The exhibition is designed to be viewed by people of all ages. The Holocaust Gallery, however, is recommended only for children twelve years of age or older.

• Many people have enjoyed visiting the exhibition while using audio-guides. These are available in ten different languages. They can be hired near the cashier desk. You can also take advantage of our free Mini Guide (three languages) which will ensure that you will not miss any important topics and exhibits.

• If you would like to broaden your knowledge about the heritage and fate of Polish Jews, or explore the history of your own family, we encourage you to visit our Resource Centre on the ground floor of POLIN Museum. Here, you will find books, computerized databases and specialists who will gladly advise on matters of genealogy and research into your local community.

• If you cannot visit the exhibition or you would like to return to it after your visit, you are welcome to take a virtual tour. The POLIN Museum core exhibition can be viewed on the Google Cultural Institute platform.

More Than The Core

Several times a year, the museum organizes temporary exhibitions and, each month, it holds concerts, theatrical shows, debates, workshops, film screenings and other activities for both adults and children. Our monthly program is available online at polin.pl or in our brochures.

So that you won’t miss anything, you can subscribe to the museum’s newsletter: polin.pl/en/newsletter

“

We present 1,000

years of PolishJewish coexistence, speaking of cooperation, rivalry and conflicts, autonomy, integration and assimilation…

At King Matt’s Family Education Centre

This colorful space is designed especially for children up to ten years of age and their guardians. Here, even the youngest children can discover the world of Jewish culture, tradition and history. Children can draw, play, read books from the rich library and enjoy musical activities.

Workshops and other activities are also held here.

These are prepared by experienced educators and are designed to develop cooperation and conversation skills and to stimulate creativity in both the children and their guardians. All activities here link learning with creative play inside a family atmosphere. For details, ticket information and reservations, go to: polin.pl/ukrolamaciusia

Menora Infopoint

For more than a century, Grzybowski Square has been a meeting place for the Polish and Jewish communities. The popular Menora restaurant has been open there for many years. Nowadays, POLIN Museum runs the Menora InfoPoint there, offering information about Jewish Warsaw, cultural events and tours around our capital city. Our InfoPoint is open from Monday to Friday, from 10:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. For details, see: www.polin. pl/menora

Join the Friends of POLIN Museum Club!

By becoming a Club member, you will receive free entry to the museum’s core and temporary exhibitions and also, depending upon the type of membership selected, invitations to special events, discounts at our restaurant, at the museum store, at selected museum events and at educational workshops. Your membership card is valid for one year. For details, see: polin.pl/ klub-przyjaciol-muzeum POLIN ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl Admission: (core exhibition): zł. 27 (regular), zł. 17 (concessions), free Thurs Hours: Mon, Thurs, Fri: 10:00 a.m. – 6:00 p.m.

Weds, Sat, Sun: 10:00 a.m. – 8:00 p.m.Closed: Tues Note: last admission to the core exhibition is one hour prior to closure. warsawinsider.pl

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LEARNING preschools

warsaw montessori family

Warsaw Montessori Schools

American School of Warsaw Students aged 3-5 are encouraged to try new things, ask questions, and take risks in a nurturing environment in which they learn life skills alongside academics.

Following the Primary Years Programme (PYP), our young students become caring, active participants in a lifelong journey of learning. Contact admissions@ aswarsaw.

Accepting applications for our programs and locations: Infant & Toddler Tatrzańska 5a Badowska 19

The British Primary School of Wilanów The British Primary School of Wilanów A values-driven school offering a world-class education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS).

Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9. Please email admissions@bswilanow.org to organise a visit.

Casa dei Bambini Badowska 19 Szkolna 16, Hornówek

Elementary

The British School Early Years Centre The British School provides EYFS classes from Pre-nursery (age 30 months) to Reception (5 years old).

Children develop quickly and their Early Years practitioners aim to do all they can to help your child have the best possible start in life and become a lifelong learner. ul. Dąbrowskiego 84 (Early Years

Szwoleżerów 4

„Erdkinder” Middle School Tatrzańska 5a

Montessori High School

Centre), tel. 22 646 7777 , thebritishschool.pl

admissions are international students.

The dedicated, IB-trained teachers deliver an innovative program (PYP) in English designed for modern world needs. The program offers a combination of Literacy, Maths, Social Studies, Science, Physical Education, Art, Music & Rhythmics, French and Polish classes. ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, canadian-school.pl

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations) Warsaw Montessori School Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have three green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin.

The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy.

Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel.

22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, warsawmontessori.edu.pl

International Trilingual School of Warsaw Established in 1994, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fill-immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul.

Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/saint-exupery.pl

Pytlasińskiego 13a Contact Office: 692 099 134 office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl

www.wmf.edu.pl

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18.12.2018 12:32

The Canadian School of Warsaw Preschool Welcoming students from the ages of 2.5 to 6 years old, currently 45% of their

The English Playhouse The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of

Mokotów and Wilanów. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old. For more info or to arrange a tour call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email: jnowak@ theenglishplayhouse.com ul. Pływiańska 14a, tel. 22 843 9370, tep.edu.pl

from Rotmistrzowska/Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, mapletreemontessori.pl

4 (Konstancin), Open 8:00-16:45, tel. 502 315 022, montessoriacademy.eu

Międzynarodowa Szkoła Podstawowa Argonaut This elementary school is open for children of all nationalities and backgrounds.

It places a focus on learning English as well as additional languages, and has an attractive list of available extracurricular activities.ul. Radarowa 6, tel. 504 509 504, argonaut.edu.pl

Maple Tree Montessori Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance

Montessori Academy for International Children An English-speaking pre-school (16 months to 6 years of age) with two locations. The school’s policy is to comply with Montessori standards, using the Montessori Method in English.

The school’s philosophy is based on the joy of learning, which comes from discovering and furthering the individual development of each child. ul.

Królewicza Jakuba 36 (Wilanów), ul. Sadowa

Montessori Stepping Stones An intimate, international, English-speaking preschool located in Powsin that follows the Montessori philosophy which emphasizes the individuality of each child. Children from the ages of 1.5-years-old to 6-years-old are welcome, with the school’s goals aimed at facilitating the individual development of the child, both physical and mental, through a system that is focused on the spontaneous use of the human intellect. ul. Przyczółkowa 140, tel.

728 939 582, montessoristeppingstones.pl

Trilingual Pre-school and Nursery “Three Languages” Center The only trilingual pre-school and nurs-

The pursuit

of excellence We promise to support your child to love learning and achieve more than they ever thought possible.

www.thebritishschool.pl

Please email admissions@thebritishschool.pl or call (0048) 22 842 32 81 ext. 125 to arrange a tour

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ery teaching English, Spanish and Polish through total language immersion. All educators are native speaker pre-school teachers. The comprehensive curriculum follows American, Spanish and Polish curriculum standards. The pre-school was awarded European Language Label in 2012. ul. Karowa 14/16 lok 6 (3-6 year olds); ul. Cicha 5 lok 1 (1-2 year olds), tel. 517 872 682, 3languages.pl

schools

The British Primary School of Wilanów A values-driven school offering a world-class education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS). Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9. Please email admissions@bswilanow.org to organise a visit.

American School of Warsaw With over 50 nationalities, ASW has been welcoming students from around the world since 1953. As an IB Continuum school, our students follow the PYP, MYP and DP throughout their learner journey. These programmes develop inquiring, knowledgeable and caring young people who are motivated to succeed. They are inspired by our highly qualified and international teaching staff. Students graduate with either the IB diploma or an American high school diploma. All programs are conducted in English, with integrated EAL support for non-native speakers. Contact: admissions@aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00, ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), aswarsaw.org

The British School Premium international school established in 1992 by Nord Anglia Education. The curriculum is designed to provide the highest academic quality of education. They follow the English National Curriculum, adapted to the needs of their international student community: from Primary through to the Secondary Key Stages to the IGCSE examinations and a well-established International Baccalaureate (IB) Diploma Program. ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, thebritishschool.pl

Accepting applications for Nursery to Year 9 bsw.com.pl +48 221 110 062 ul. Hlonda 12, Warsaw admissions@bswilanow.org

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Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations) Warsaw Montessori School Guided by trained specialists, students will be responsible for managing their household, operating small businesses, caring for local flora and fauna as well as domesticated animals, taking charge of the younger children and much more. “Adolescence Program” activities, integrated with academic studies, help students discover their inner strength to meet life’s real challenges. ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, warsawmontessori.edu.pl

Casa dei Bambini Warsaw Montessori School A leader in the field of Montessori education, well-trained teachers guide students to independent and successful learning with both English and bilingual classrooms provided. Located just steps from Lazienki Park, the school resides in vibrant surroundings near to museums, embassies and natural settings which provide students with learning outside the classroom. ul. Szwoleżerów 4 (grades 0-4), tel. 608 488 420; ul. Tatrzańska 5A (grades 5-8), tel. 604 137 826; ul.

Pytlasińskiego 13 (high school), tel. 787 095 835, wmf.edu.pl

The English Primary The English Primary is designed specifically for children in the primary education ages, just as children experience in England but in an international community. Pupils are taken through the key learning stages so that they can achieve to the best of their ability through a fun learning experience. The Core Curriculum subjects include English, Phonics, Science, Mathematics, French, PE and Swimming, Music, Personal, Social and Health Education. ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 784

English and Polish. French is taught as a third language. Offers a wide range of extra activities, a summer school, and employs a full time psychologist.

Provision is made for additional Polish and English support. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create the perfect learning environment. ul. Bełska 7, tel. 692 411 573 / 885 420 044, secretary@canadian-school. pl or secretary.olimpijska@canadianschool.pl

037 808, tep.edu.pl

The Canadian School of Warsaw International Elementary and Middle School Located on two campuses in the Mokotów this is the only authorized IB School with PYP programs taught in

International Trilingual School of Warsaw Established in 1994, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve.

The fill-immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English,

Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel.

501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/saint-exupery.pl

Monnet International School Located in Mokotów, the Monnett is the only school in Poland that implements the International Baccalaureate Program from kindergarten level all the way through to secondary school. The fully-qualified staff are committed to delivering only the highest standards of education. ul. Stępińska 13, tel. 22 852 06 08, maturamiedzynarodowa.pl

Warsaw Montessori School Focuses on the Montessori curriculum with an education based on the integration of conceptual learning and real-life experiences. ul. Szwoleżerów 4, tel. 22 841 3908, warsawmontessori.edu.pl

The English speaking preschool and primary school.

www.tep.edu.pl

696 904 687

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Willy Brandt Schule Warschau One of the city’s best renowned schools offers a kindergarten as well as primary and secondary education conducted to a German curriculum. Św. Urszuli Ledóchowskiej 3, wbs.pl

adult learning

Szczęśliwego Nowego Roku

Cup of Polish Personalized Polish classes adapted to meet your needs. Also home/company visits and online courses. For a free 60-minute trial email: kontakt@cupofpol-

Polish School for Foreigners

ish.com. cupofpolish.com

kontakt@cupofpolish.com cupofpolish.com tel. +48 508 700 508

Frog Acclaimed language school aimed at all levels of competency. Flexible schedules and a history of working with foreigners make it one of the ‘go to’ choices for new arrivals wanting to polish their Polish. ul.

Mazowiecka 12/24, frog.org.pl

Klub Dialogu Outstanding programs for foreigners living in Poland: a variety of courses aimed at every level. Using over ten years of experience, the leaning process becomes an adventure at Klub Dialogu. ul. Ordynacka 13/5, klubdialogu.pl

monnet international school

PADDINGTON BEAR KINDERGARTEN

IB World School no 001483

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's ton B g n i d LU Pad EN'S C EN LDR CHI OW OP N

Education for a better world

Belwederska 6a, Warsaw

www.maturamiedzynarodowa.pl/przedszkole

Warsaw Insider | JANUARY 2020

FASHION

casual clothing and more dazzly evening wear. ul. Mokotowska 61, justpaul.pl

303 Avenue Using top Italian and French fabrics, this family-owned fashion brand specialize in women’s apparel that crosses boundaries between causal and chic. In their portfolio discover oversized cashmere coats, skirts, sweaters and scarves, all of which fall on the cutting edge of style. ul.

Lolly Pop Boutique Latest fashion from See by Chloe, Calvin Klein, Calvin Klein Jeans, Melissa, UnitedNude, Bronx and many more. For online shopping, check: sklep.lollypop.pl

Mokotowska 40/3, 303avenue.pl

LoveYa This upcoming Polish fashion brand aims itself at ‘women who value originality and like to play with styles and colors’.

Noted for their use of high-quality materials and fabrics, their founding tenets are based upon elegance, creativity and taste. ul. Mokotowska 46A, loveya.pl

Ania Kuczyńska Ania Kuczyńska is becoming well known for her highly fashionable, minimalist clothing designs. The store also carries adorable baby clothes and various accessories. ul. Mokotowska 61

Al. Jerozolimskie 169 lok 45A (C.H. Blue City, level 1), lollypop.pl

Bunny, Burberry, Buscemi, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Cult Gaia, Francesco Russo, Gianvito Rossi, Golden Goose, Herve Leger, Isabel Marant, Kenzo, Maison Michel, Marc Jacobs, Manolo Blahnik, Moncler, OneTeaspoon, Self-Portrait, Tod’s, Tory Burch, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon, Zimmermann. ul. Moliera 2, moliera2.com

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Brands: Beach Bunny, Buscemi, Canada Goose, Casadei, Christian Louboutin Men, Dsquared2, Fay, Gianvito Rossi, Hogan, Kenzo, Moncler, Mr & Mrs Italy, OTS, Ralph Lauren, Tod’s, Tom Ford, Tory Burch, Valentino, Yves Salomon. Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, plactrzechkrzyzy.com

Balthazar An atelier, boutique and private tailor with several unique brands. Book your meeting by calling tel. 535 545 728. Al. Rzeczypospolitej 18/68, balthazar.pl

Cafardini Complete suits start at zł. 2,600 and rise to zł. 4,500, depending on the fabric.

Using the finest natural raw materials, Cafardini even offer a ‘suit spa’ – a special care package that will see you suit regain its fresh look if it has been worn intensively. ul. Grzybowska 5A

Lui Store Elegant female fashion store with brands including Attico, 3.1 Philip Lim, Les Coyottes de Paris, Jonathan Simkhai, as well as lesser-known names making their first in-roads into the world of high fashion. ul. Mokotowska 26, lui-store.com Maare On-trend Polish female fashion label with a flagship boutique on, it almost goes without saying, Mokotowska.

Known for their boho chic look and flowery dresses, the brand has fast gained a name for clothing that’s edgy and upmarket yet also highly affordable. ul. Mokotowska 46, maare.eu

Centrum Praskie Koneser Set in the dynamic Praga district, this restored vodka factory is a shopaholic pleasure with a host of niche shops inside Pasaż Konesera: handmade Polish eyewear from Muscat, beautiful domestically produced jewelry and adornments from MintyDot, Polish fashion brands (from Polish Design and Freeshion) and many more besides. Pl. Konesera 10, koneser.eu

Just Paul Exuding confident femininity, this energetic brand is characterized by its light and unobtrusive elegance and sense of effortless nonchalance. Founded in 2012 by designers Justyna and Paula, Just Paul seeks to address the needs of the modern woman with its line in chic but

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Mandel Valuing traditional craftsmanship and the finest materials, Mandel’s mission is to add ‘a classy touch to every story’.

This they do with clothing suited to all occasions and every personality. ul. Nowogrodzka 18A, mandel-store.com

MMC Founded by Ilona Majer and Rafał Michalak, MMC have earned a name for unconventional designs manufactured using non-standard materials. ul. Żurawia

Reykjavik District Chic, well-cut menswear for all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal. ul. Burakowska 15, reykjavikdistrict.com

Risk. Made In Warsaw Mixing modern shapes with expert tailoring, the idea was to create a look that’s both comfortable yet chic. That they’ve been featured in the likes of Vogue and Elle suggests that this target has been accomplished. ul. Szpitalna 9 Safripsti Buying wholesale – meaning prices are kept in check – this fashion store presents finds like authentic cheerleader outfits and Hawaiian shirts for summer, not to mention a great selection of denim, parkers and so forth. ul. Oleandrów 3

Snobissimo Top labels from design houses like Jimmy Choo, Sonia Rykiel, Les Copains, Sergio Rossi etc., etc. With shoes and accessories all provided for, it’s a one-stop shop to re-boot your wardrobe. ul. Mokotowska 28

2, mmcstudio.pl

Moliera 2 Boutique Brands: Alexnadre Birman, Alexandre Vauthier, Aquazzura, Balmain, Beach

The Odder Side The Odder Side have grown from a cult brand to one of the most influential labels on the domestic fashion market.

Few do a better job when it comes to making simple sexy. ul. Koszykowa 5

HOME & DESIGN

Grzybowski 10/7A, purite.pl

8288 The graphic art of co-owner Robert Kuta; hard-to-find scents by Andrea Maack; stationary by Midori; and beautiful jewelry pieces by the likes of All Blues and Otiumberg await inside this thrilling, fresh-minded concept store. Blending the functions of a gallery and shop, the aesthetic value of 8288 is impossible to fault. ul. Mysia 3, 8288conceptstore.com

Rzeczownik Specializing in stationery, cards, notepads, and calendars, find Rifle Paper Co., Red Cap Cards, UStudio and 1973 among the brands available at this intriguing store.

Ranging from the super cute to the ultra-cool, browse-worthy items include graphic prints, ceramics, books and quirky little things for house and home. ul. Hoża 59/1,

Collage The idea is simple: to present all a woman needs under one roof. Specializing in beauty products and design pieces, Collage’s portfolio ranges from jewelry and fashion to succulents and tableware.

Always stylish, the underlying quality of the products isn’t for dispute. ul. Rozbrat

rzeczownik.com

28/30

Future Antiques These stylish, mid-century pieces have been refreshed using artisanal techniques to return items to their fullest aesthetic potential. Though much of the furniture is sourced from France, Italy and the Czech Republic, it’s the Danish bits and pieces that really stand out. ul. Poznańska 3/14, futureantiques.eu

Plantarium Focusing on low maintenance air plants, owner Kamila Burchardt has accrued a number of big, leafy ferns, towering succulents, hard-to-find plants that are uncommon to Poland and accompanying accessories to lift up your home. Impressive in scope and outlook, your apartment won’t ever feel the same. ul. Mokotowska 71, plantarium.pl

Porcelanowa Award-winning, contemporary Polish porcelain produced by cult, internationally recognized brands such as Aoomi and Fenek. ul. Kredytowa 2, porcelanowa.com Purite Natural, ‘Made in Poland’ cosmetics whose eco credentials extend to beautiful recyclable packaging. Highlights include cinnamon coffee soap, coconut milk

shampoo, mint hand and foot cream, and green clay cream deodorant: you’re talking about items of real and rare beauty. Pl.

Silly Design Space Looking for framed illustrations of bears dancing with sailors?

Maybe a mug with a cheery croc gnashing his teeth? Or perhaps an owl-shaped salt shaker? Then Silly Design are here to help – find great little gifts from a brand with a wicked sense of humor. ul. Piękna 47, sillydesign.pl

Slou Founded from a love of simple, beautiful things, this suburb treasure is an enclave of design-minded items that range from ceramics and plant pots to stationary, clothing, cosmetics and art. Diverse as it is, all objects are linked by their extraordinary aesthetics. Polish designers are prominent, but by no means the only stars at this cult Bielany store. Al. Zjednoczenia 11, slou.pl

Spod Lady This shop’s a beauty, and brims with collectibles that have seen classic PRL keepsakes given a contemporary update. Books, films, bags, toys and general items for the home inside this cult courtyard store. ul.

Chmielna 26, spodlady.com

malls & department stores Arkadia Stores inc. Mango, Lacoste, Guess, Hilfiger and Peek & Cloppenburg. Al. Jana Pawła II 82, arkadia.com.pl

Galeria Mokotów Stores inc. Calvin Klein, Hollister, Hugo Boss, New Balance, Royal Collection and Timberland. ul. Wołoska 12, galeriamokotow.com.pl

Galeria Północna Feature inc. Poland’s first outpost of Hamley’s, as well as stores such as Forever 21, Lagerfeld and Guess. Part of the ‘fourth generation of shopping centers’, add-ons number a rooftop garden and some of the best kid’s facilities on Poland’s retail map. ul. Światowida 17, galeriapolnocna.pl

Klif House of Fashion Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has a line-up of top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko. ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl Plac Unii One of Warsaw’s latest mall counts Armani Jeans, Liu-Jo and Pandora amongst its upmarket tenants. ul.

Puławska 2, placunii.pl

Mysia 3 Set in Poland’s former censorship office, the line-up includes Scandinavian fashion in Cos, shoes from My Paris, unconventional fashion from Nenukko and more. ul. Mysia 3, mysia3.pl Vitkac Poland’s first luxury department store gathers the world’s top designers under one roof, with brands including Alexander McQueen, Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Stella McCartney, Stone Island and Rick Owens. And that’s the tip of the iceberg. Vitkac, ul. Bracka 9, likusconceptstore.pl

Velt Beautiful family-run glassware store whose pieces include the Leda lamp, awarded an honorable mention in the prestigious 2012 Red Dot Awards. ul. Próżna 12, velt.pl

Złote Tarasy Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus a Multikino cinema inside an award-winning piece of architecture. ul.

Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl

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HEALTH & BEAUTY gyms Artis Wellness Club Found in Royal Wilanów, this state-of-the-art gym boasts the latest technological advances in personal fitness, as well as a massive program of courses that range from group cycling and yoga to Zumba and body combat. ul. Klimczaka 1 (Royal Wilanów), artisclub.pl

Gravitan Set in Janki and Targówek, Gravitan features state-of-the-art equipment, group classes and numerous specialists ranging from trainers and physios to beauticians and dieticians.

panorama of the city and is almost worth the membership fee alone. Annual prices begin from around zł. 4,000. ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental), riverview.com.pl

spas & salons

63 (Hilton), Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), holmesplace.pl

2, pedicure-place.pl

hair & beauty Creamy Creamy Creative Cosmetics offering a wide range of cosmetics which are based mainly on the deeply nourishing Haitian Moringa Oil. Created by Zofia Pinchinat-Witucka, a Haitian-Pole whose life goal has been to bring the two countries closer, Creamy’s cosmetics are vegan and cruelty-free and do not contain any synthetic dyes nor fragrances, petroleum components, sulphates or silicones. ul. Chmielna 6 (Warsaw), creamy.pl

Pl. Szwedzki 3 & ul. Malborska 39, gravitan.pl

Holmes Place Swimming, sauna and steam room facilities are available, as are a varied timetable of classes plus personal training. ul. Grzybowska

The Pedicure Place A luxury pedi/manicure clinic with room for 10. All the latest OPI varnishes and over 200 colors guarantee you’ll find the latest in styling and nail care. ul. Pokorna

Fifth Avenue Originating in Dublin, Fifth Avenue specialize in luxurious facials, waxing, massages and treatments for the hands and feet. Using a range of OPI varnishes and creams specially created for them in Germany, they’ve become synonymous with top-class treatments. ul. Mokotowska

Barberian Academy & Barber Shop This standout has a rebel chic layout and barbers who are experts in their field. ul.

E. Plater 25 & ul. Koszykowa 9, barberian.pl

Bartek Janusz Salon The staff here takes a no-nonsense approach to cutting hair – it goes along with the minimalist chic interiors of the place. ul. Mokotowska 19 / ul. Wilcza 72, bartekjanusz.pl

BodyClinic Thorough body care for everyone. From the usual options to a huge variety of massages and some very exotic treatments, BodyClinic covers all the bases. ul. Oboźna 9 lok. 104, bodyclinic.pl

Dotyk SPA Probably the only place in Warsaw where you’ll get a facial yoga session.

Going further east, treat yourself to Japanese, Polynesian or Indian massage.

Biały Kamień 3, dotykspa.pl

49, fifthavenuewarszawa.pl

Little Gym Targeted at children, expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-to-child ratio, original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. ul. Bruzdowa 56, thelittlegym.pl

Quantum Fitness A place of quiet, understated luxury, equipment is state-of-the-art and complemented by expert trainers at the peak of their game. This is the full 24-carat gym experience. ul.

Piękna 15, quantumpiekna.pl

RiverView Wellness Centre Top-class facilities and equipment, private instructors and small classes. The view from the highest pool in Europe offers a glorious

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ouch!

DEPILACJA WOSKIEM

Ouch!

Experts in waxing, Ouch! aim their offer at ‘busy women looking for express treatments with lasting effects who, at the same time, appreciate a sense of intimacy’. ul. Belwederska 32, ouch.pl

PARDON MY FRENCH

manicure pedicure

Pardon My French Manicure and pedicure treatments with high quality lacquers and an awareness of global trends: if you need an endorsement, Paul McCartney visited when he was in Poland! ul. Belwederska 32; Bonifraterska 8; ul. Mokotowska 56, ul.

Wilcza 3 pardonmyfrench.pl

Ferajna Rated by many as the No. 1 barber shop in PL, this is a male grooming experience like no other – there’s even arcade games to wile away waiting time. ul.

Andersa 6, ferajna.pro

Fiuu Fiuu Day Spa A wonderful quick fix salon that makes use of the latest Ericson products and other top brands. Regarded as one of the top ladies day spas in the country. ul.

Mokotowska 48

Rostowski Barber Shop A true celebration of the vintage barber shop, Rostowski have the ambiance nailed to a tee thanks to a crew that’s ready for banter and an interior replete with jack-up chairs, glinting zinc and restored floor tiles. ul. Koszykowa 58, rostowskibarbershop.pl

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Moving?

Also immigration assistance, fine art shipping, pet transport and consulting services. ul. Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 8160, moveonerelo.com

looking back

GAME OVER: BLACK CAT

T

he never-ending saga of the Czarny Kot hotel drew a step closer to finally reaching its conclusion after a demolition crew set to work in mid-December. First built in 1990, the six-story behemoth has consistently been cited as being one of the capital’s ugliest structures, not to mention its best example of Gargamelizm – a flamboyantly gaudy architectural style unique to postcommunist, nouveau riche Poland.

Low on taste but high on jutting turrets and decorative panthers, the hotel – sat opposite Powązki Cemetery – was born from the turbo-capitalist mayhem that followed the collapse of Communism. For all the hideous adornments on the outside, it wasn’t much better from within: waking up, it took a moment to work out if you were in a brothel that looked like a hotel, or a hotel that looked like a brothel.

Although the first stage of construction was

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conducted within the correct legal parameters, much of what followed ignored little things like permits and permission. Authorities, however, found themselves embarking on a wild goose chase through the district courts, and for years had to watch on glumly while the Cat’s owners stacked more embellishments onto their monstrous creation. Having avoided the executioner’s axe for so long, many started to suspect that this was a cat with nine thousand lives.

But while its overdue dismantling has bought cheers from many quarters, others have been left lamenting the loss of a landmark that has become almost symbolic of a wild era in Polish history.

Synonymous with the times when Warsaw was a roller coaster ride of excess, adventure, corruption and debauchery, the demise of the Czarny Kot has been seen by many as another step towards the homogenization of the capital.

KEVIN DEMARIA

Warsaw bids farewell to one of its most legendary eyesores…