Warsaw Insider December 2019 #280

AQUAZZURA ALEXANDRE BIRMAN BALMAIN BURBERRY BUSCEMI CASADEI CANADA GOOSE CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN CULT GAIA FRANCESCO RUSSO GIANVITO ROSSI HERVE LEGER ISABEL MARANT KENZO KIINI MAISON MICHEL MANOLO BLAHNIK MARC JACOBS ONETEASPOON SELF-PORTRAIT TOD’S TORY BURCH VICTORIA BECKHAM YVES SALOMON PARIS ZIMMERMANN

Moliera 2 tel.: 228277099, www.Moliera2.com

editorial FEATURES

Editor-in-chief Alex Webber

6 Christmas Your all-inclusive guide to Xmas in Warsaw (and beyond!)

insider@warsawinsider.pl Art Director Kevin Demaria insider@warsawinsider.pl Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com

EAT!

Contributors: Michał Miszkurka Ed Wight

31 First Bite:

DRINK!

65 First Sips:

Paloma na Pańskiej 66 Seasonal

Grzaniec

DISCOVER 79 Review:

The Dollhouse Museum 82 Museums 86 Events:

Xmas Markets 87 Exhibition Review:

The Deer Incarnation 88 Essentials 102 Map 104 Looking Back Year In Review

Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com ey Account Manager K Aleksandra Seweryn aseweryn@valkea.com ey Account Manager K Karolina Zielonka kzielonka@valkea.com

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o, that’s another year for the Insider wrapped up to be stored in the vault. Not been too bad, and we’ve still got Christmas right ahead – it’s no surprise, therefore, that this issue it’s the festive season that gets the limelight. Further in, find our bulletproof guide to all you need to know, do and see these holidays, not to mention our usual supplement of bar and restaurant reviews. Actually, scratch that – in the form of Epoka, Fest and the Raffles Europejski there’s nothing ordinary about them.

And just to really set the cat amongst the pigeons, we’ve finished up by visiting The Dollhouse Museum, arguably the most curious sight you’ll explore all winter. Enjoy it all and have a great new year!

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Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl on the cover It was never going to be anything else really, was it? Our cover artist has plumped for Pl. Zamkowy’s Xmas tree, a sight you’ll be able to enjoy in the flesh from Dec 7th onwards. (Illustration by Michał Miszkurka)

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Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com

Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2019

VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies. All information ©2019 Warsaw Insider.

PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT

Fest Port Czerniakowski 32 Openings

New in town 34 Review: Epoka 36 Review: Raffles Europejski 38 Review: Swiętoszek Tartuffe

DECEMBER 2019

BURBERRY CANADA GOOSE CASADEI CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN MEN FAY GIANVITO ROSSI KENZO MONCLER MR & MRS ITALY ONETEASPOON RALPH LAUREN TOD’S TORY BURCH BURBERRY CHILDREN DSQUARED2 KIDS KENZO KIDS MONCLER KIDS

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 tel.: +48 226221416, www.PlacTrzechKrzyzy.com

FIND THE HEART OF WINTER AT ATRIUM SHOPPING CENTERS! Soak in a unique atmosphere This December, visit Atrium shopping

centers in Warsaw to enjoy our exceptional Christmas illuminations that will immerse all our guests in the enchanting atmosphere of the season. Allow yourself to be inspired by our broad range of top fashion brands, innovative retail concepts, engaging cultural events and popular global dining destinations!

Discover the latest fashion trends

Atrium Promenada shopping center is a retail pearl in the very heart of Warsaw’s Praga district: offering a blend of shopping, leisure and city-typical entertainment, the smart and spacious interiors create a beguiling atmosphere that acts as the perfect backdrop for spontaneous meetings.

Amid this atmosphere, it’s natural to then seek out the latest trends and original styles. In the Alley of Fountains discover original Xmas gifts in more than 50 shops featuring top global brands such as: MASSIMO DUTTI, GUESS, CK JEANS, IMPERIAL, MARELLA, WEEKEND TO MAX MARA, ELISABETTA FRANCHI, PINKO, LIU JO, ZARA, H&M, TK MAXX, LUISA SPAGNOLI, TRUSSARDI, DENI CLER, MOLTON or LANORO, and the first E-OBUWIE STORE in Warsaw.

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Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2019

Visit the jewelry festival

Don’t miss out on the second edition of the Biżu Mania festival in Atrium Promenada on 13-15 December. On these days, in the elegant setting of the main gallery, the Alley of Fountains, fans of original accessories and the latest jewelry and fashion trends will find a selection of renowned jewelry and watch brands as well as a rich choice of unique handicrafts.

Experience new tastes in the Republic of Flavours

Monika Ślósarczyk malarstwo

As inspirational meeting places go, what can beat the Republic of Flavours in Atrium Promenada. Dine and relax inside artfully arranged interiors and choose from a selection of eateries offering meticulously curated menus from around the world including leading food and beverage brands and chain concepts such as: MCDONALD'S, BURGER KING, PIZZA HUT, THAI WOK, BERLIN DÖNERKEBAP, SALAD STORY, BON APETITO, KLOOSKI BISTRO BAR and NORTH FISH as well as a STARBUCKS cafe.

Enjoy seasonal specials

Our Christmas tree in Ochota’s Atrium Reduta is guaranteed to inject all who see it with a thick does of Christmas merriment – enjoy it from December 13th to 22nd. Meanwhile, those visiting Atrium Targówek between the 10th and 23rd of December will have their gifts packed in special decorative bags just ripe for the season.

Brought to you by

Entertainment for kids wystawę można oglądać w Atrium Reduta na I piętrze w galerii Project ART

Spoil yourself with entertainment and leisure

Finish your day with a film at Atrium Reduta’s Cinema 3D. You won’t just find the latest films, but also the cheapest prices – just PLN 14.90 (including weekends!). When it’s over, don’t forget to check into the food court or Monika Ślósarczyk’s exhibition inside the Project ART gallery.

Further cultural encounters await at Pasaż Wiecha in the center of Warsaw. Here, find photographs, drawings and comic book exhibitions stood alongside magical Christmas decorations. As part of the ‘Winter In The Very Center’ project organized by the Wars Sawa Junior Department Stores, visitors will also be able to purchase gifts, decorations, win prizes or take snaps in our captivating Christmas-themed setting.

In Atrium Promenada on 5-7 December and in Atrium Targówek on 12-15 December, both young and not so young fans of the hugely popular Super Zings series can meet their favorite figurines. The attractioąns will include thematic stands for individual play with Super Zings, a live-action XXL Super Zings Mr. King mascot and a figurine exchange stand. Seasonal atmosphere is guaranteed thanks to our resident Santa Claus and creative workshops for children to be held on 6-7 December and on 20-21 December in Atrium Targówek.

Atrium Promenada

ul. Ostrobramska 75c 04-175 Warszawa Tel.: +48 22 611 39 52

Atrium Reduta

Al. Jerozolimskie 148 02-326 Warszawa Tel.: +48 22 823 94 00/01

Atrium Targówek

ul. Głębocka 15 03-287 Warszawa Tel.: +48 22 675 80 00

Wars Sawa Junior

ul. Marszałkowska 104/122 00-017 Warszawa Tel.: +48 22 551 45 55 warsawinsider.pl

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STEP INTO CHRISTMAS

Three, two, one: let the Christmas countdown begin!

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Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2019

Christmas & The Old Town

Honeycombed with nooks, niches, passages and alleys, never does the capital’s Old Town feel as enticing as under a glaze of frost at the height of winter…

TOTALLY TREE-MENDOUS! Though the exact time has yet to be revealed,

Warsaw’s annual Christmas light show will begin on December 7th with the Mayor pulling the lever that casts the city in a festive glow. Attracting thousands of onlookers, last year’s inauguration ceremony was helped along by a team of elves and crews of volunteers pouring out cups of tea brewed with Warsaw tap water. Set to glimmer into January, no other tree in Poland receives quite as much hype.

SEASONAL SIPS Looking a little frayed and rugged Same Krafty

(Nowomiejska 10), and their sister venture opposite, act as the area’s oasis for all things craft beer. An unfailingly jolly refuge from the frostbitten streets, it’s the place to head for seasonal beers produced by Poland’s rebel brewers. On a cold day, not much beats a chocolate chili stout in a busy, raucous bar. Note: they will, as ever, open on the 25th! For something less alcoholic, Same Fusy Herbaciarnia next door is a warming little tea stop with a cozy aesthetic that’s straight from The Hobbit.

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XMAS SEASON WONDERS FOR DATES ON SKATES There are bigger ice rinks to be

enjoyed elsewhere in the city, but none quite as enchanting as the one shaped around the saber brandishing shape of the Warsaw mermaid in the center of the rynek. Often surprisingly empty, gliding over the ice handin-hand as snowflakes tumble down is a fantastical experience almost designed with rom-coms in mind.

Opening at the start of December, as before the rink will be fringed by cute winter chalets knocking out steaming cups of mulled wine.

PLAY THE MARKET

Following the curve of Podwale street, find several dozen itsy wooden cabins hawking items you’ll only ever buy at Christmas: outsized lollipops, hand-carved mountain creatures, furry slippers and fluffy socks. Among all the seasonal mountain merch, numerous little hidey holes dispense roasted horse chestnuts, cups of hot chocolate and rocket-sized sausages on floppy paper plates.

It’s not the best Christmas market by any means, but it’s for sure the most atmospheric.

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Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2019

SWEETS & TREATS

Remember, your diet begins in January. In December, therefore, take advantage of the street-side hatches doling out calorific servings of gofry (waffles) often generously spuming with cream, fruit and lashings of chocolate. As the warmth spreads through you, the meaning of Christmas in Warsaw becomes truly apparent.

WISHING YOU A WONDERFUL XMAS TIME

ALL PHOTOGRAPHS SHUTTERSTOCK EXCPET RIGHT COURTESY OF PODWALE BAR AND BOOKS

Glued back together Humpty Dumpty-style after crashing from St. John’s Cathedral during the war, the big bell that sits on ul. Kanonia is the source of one of Warsaw’s great abiding legends: circle it three times with your finger placed on the top before pausing to make a wish – follow the ritual correctly, and your dreams will come true.

FIRESIDE LOUNGING Effecting the look of a gentleman’s

club (no, not that kind!), the booklined, wood-paneled features of Podwale Bar & Books (Wąski Dunaj 20) could have been designed with the long Polish winter in mind. Home to one of the few legit fireplaces in the historic center, settle in upstairs while bowtied staff scuttle around delivering cocktails with a seasonal twist.

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XMAS SEASON WONDERS Bazar Olkuska

ul. Olkuska 12 What was once a sad-looking side street of complete insignificance has come to be one of the hottest words in the dictionary of Mokotów. Compact and easily navigable, trips to this suburban eco market invariably end with bags filled with French cheeses, Italian hams, Hungarian sausages and fresh fruit and veg. But as Christmas looms closer, find the onus shifting towards local festive feasting habits. With shopping finished, stop in for drinks and seasonal dishes and desserts at Bistro Olkuska.

BioBazar

Fill The Larder!

Offering a welcome alternative to the spirit crushing supermarket, farmers’ markets have taken the town by storm. And you won’t find anywhere better to stock the pantry over Xmas than this fab four…

Forteca Kregliccy

ul. Zakroczymska 12 Visit this one-time Tsarist fortress each Wednesday to join chefs, restauranteurs, foodies and yoga mums sifting through glorious greens, muddy veg and artisanal gems from Poland’s top vendors; of the many highlights, no visit is complete without stopping to paw the produce of Pan Ziółko, a vegetable farmer commonly regarded as the best in Poland. That’s not all. Each December, Forteca opens on the last Sunday before Crimbo for their biggest market of the year.

Attracting traders from across Poland, the spread laid before you includes eco wines, domestic ciders, freshly caught fish, cured meats and a jumbo choice of Christmas related foods. The carp, provided by Gospododarstwo Rolne Jastrzębie Kąty, is like nothing you’ve eaten before and will change your perspective on this grisly fish.

Hala Gwardii & Hala Mirowska

H A L A G WA R D I I

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Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2019

Pl. Mirowski 1 Noisy and unkempt, chaotic and crammed, it’s in Hala Mirowska’s tight warren of alleyways that the greatness of Poland’s produce becomes obvious. From hardto-find herbs to nose-to-tail meats, it’s the final word in cracking farmers’ produce. For something more genteel and middle class, head next door to Gwardii, a weekend market and food hall whose festive schedule includes a “fair of fancy things” (i.e., vintage goods, locally produced cosmetics, decorations, ceramics, etc.) on the 14th and 15th, and a pet fair the weekend before.

PHOTOGRAPHS CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: COURTESY OF HALA GWARDII, KEVIN DEMARIA, SHUTTERSTOCK

FORTECA

ul. Wołoska 3 First founded in 2010, BioBazar pre-dated Warsaw’s love of food-from-the-source and triggered a city-wide trend that’s shown no sign of slowing. From humble beginnings when 30 traders were talked into setting up stalls within the disintegrating confines of the Norblin Factory, the BioBazar has come to be regarded as a city-wide phenomenon with well in excess of 110 vendors making up the numbers. Shining a light on ecologically certified goods and produce, everything you need to pursue a bright, happy life is here on this spot, and although Christmas plans remained unclear at press time, past years have involved gingerbread workshops and planet conscious trade-ins for unwanted Christmas decorations.

often days in the making with the sour base usually fermented four or five days ahead to ensure super max taste.

And what’s that stuff floating around in it? That’ll be uszki, tiny, ear-shaped dumplings often filled with wild forest mushrooms.

The good old pickled herring represents the more palatable side to the fishy business of Christmas dinner. Though mostly obliterated in vinegar before being served with chopped apples, onions and sour cream, some households are seizing the initiative back and doing the pickling themselves. Can’t be bothered? Then refer either to the markets or to the city’s top fishmonger: Świteź on Wiktorska 6. Best enjoyed with a bottle of vodka, though be warned, more conservative households won’t be touching the booze on this day of days – you might want to check if you’ll be eating with such people beforehand.

Gulp. Whereas in England it’s the lovely turkey that takes center stage, in Poland you get a dead-eyed carp that’s all bones and menace. Traditionally kept (alive!) in the bathtub in the run up to Xmas so as to filter out the mud, avoid common pratfalls by ditching the oil and instead frying it with clarified butter or animal fat. Remarkably, there is such a thing as good carp and you’ll find exactly that at the farmers’ markets in town.

Tuck In For Christmas!

For many foreigners experiencing the traditional wigilia dinner for the first time, the Polish Christmas feast can be more like a fast. Here’s what to watch for…

For foreigners, perhaps the most awkward moment of all arrives right at the beginning with the traditional sharing of good wishes over a consecrated wafer (opłatek).

Certainly, it’s a sober and somber moment that’s completely different to whatever else you might be used to. Grin and bear it.

Beetroot soup (barszcz) is the age old favorite starter, and don’t expect its popularity to recede anytime soon – enjoyed since the 16th century, this complex dish is

No dinner table will dare be without pierogi. Poland’s most recognizable food will be replicated in every household, often to the ancient secret recipe in the sole possession of the matriarch.

Standard fillings on this meatless day include cream cheese and onion (pierogi Ruskie), though don’t be surprised to find more radical fillings such as dried prunes in the Eastern provinces. To look like an old hand yourself, prep your pierogi by replacing the milk used in the dough with sour cream.

It was said in the past that the consumption of poppy seeds would lead to both prosperity and fertility, but the modern day popularity of makowiec (poppy seed cake) owes more to the fact that it’s just so damn tasty. With sweetness largely absent on Christmas Eve, it’s pretty much the most coveted dish on the table – get there first! warsawinsider.pl

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XMAS SEASON WONDERS

w And Then There Was Light!

Poland’s biggest Christmas light show readies for launch…

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Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2019

arsaw’s Christmas countdown will become all the more real on December 7th, the date on which the switch is flicked on the city’s lights. Celebrated as one of Europe’s largest seasonal light shows, approximately 4.5 million energy efficient LED bulbs will sparkle through the city to form a truly sensational sight.

Lining 20 kilometers of roadway, the extravaganza will feature 1,300 decorative elements that will include light curtains, overhangs, icicles and free-standing decorations. Were every single light chain laid end-to-end, it’s estimated that they would stretch out in excess of 680 kilometers – roughly the distance to Vienna.

These have not appeared by magic: costing the city zł. 6.5 million, over 60 trucks were used to transport the lights to the capital with a team of around 50 little helpers working through November to ensure they’d be strung up in time.

As since the dawn of time, the natural focal point of it all will be the Christmas tree on Pl. Zamkowy, though this will be complimented by illuminations running all the way from the Royal Castle to Wilanów Palace. In addition, decorations will adorn the Old and New Town, ul. Mokotowska, ul. Francuska, ul.

Agrykola, Poniatowski and ŚląskoDąbrowski bridges, Pl. Bankowy and swathes of Marszałkowska, Targowa and Solidarności – and those are just the locations that have been confirmed already.

And, as ever, don’t dare miss the socalled Garden of Light outside Wilanów Palace. Lit by 300,000 pulsating diodes, lose yourself in a sea of thematic garden areas whilst tunes by Tchaikovsky and Vivaldi drift in the background. It’s beguiling, bewitching and even slightly trippy. When you leave, it’s with eyes dancing to a kaleidoscope of color.

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XMAS SEASON WONDERS PA Ł AC O S O WA S I E Ń

Have A Royal Weekend!

Live out your monarchical daydreams at these three breaks with a difference…

PHOTOGRAPHS CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT; ED WIGHT, COURTESY OF (2)

CARSKA

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Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2019

Z A M E K KO R Z K I E W

FOR… TSARS & TSARINAS Endorsed once before in our autumn travel round-up, it’d

be a crime to overlook Carska in its best season of all. Set a stone’s throw from the picturesque village of Białowieża (itself, positioned perfectly inside the nature reserve of the same name), the last Tsar’s private train station has been revived as a hotel to stop you in your tracks: maybe stay at the top of the 19th century water tower, sleeping under the stern gaze of the Russian aristocrats that stare from the portraits, but for the full experience book your own train carriage: striding around humming the theme of Dr. Zhivago is natural inside these decadent private wagons.

After, play spot the bison on a sleigh ride around the National Park before wallowing in the elegant confines of the hotel restaurant. Harking to the lost world of Tolstoy and Tchaikovsky, you expect sash-wearing colonels to burst in from the snows.

Carska Białowieża, carska.pl Suites from zł. 380 per night (saloon wagons from zł. 450)

FOR… PRINCES & PRINCESSES Ravishing as Kraków is, doesn’t it make a pleasant change to escape the shouting stags and earnest novelists in-the-making. And this, you can easily do for just fifteen kilometers north stands Zamek Korzkiew. Forming part of the Eagle’s Nest trail of medieval castles, this 14th century fortification caps a small hill rising from the wintry mists, making an instant impression on all those that visit.

Centered around a small courtyard, this compact castle comes with four chambers, three of which tout their own

crackling hearths and paintings of important-looking nobility. Creaky and atmospheric, generous breakfasts make up for the lack of on-site restaurant, while the well-stocked wine cellar could have been born with ideas of fireside chats in the communal living area. If your luck sticks, like in our case, you may even find yourself the sole resident of this gorgeous little jewel. Ensconced in your own tower, you’ll be left feeling like Rapunzel.

Zamek Korzkiew Przybysławice, donimirski.com Suites from zł. 280

FOR… COUNTS & COUNTESSES Built in the 19th century as a homage to the fairytale hunt-

ing castles of Germany’s past, Osowa Sień bursts into sight in a flurry of towers, turrets and pointed steeples. Supposedly built on a source of high concentrated energy, good vibes ring throughout with the daisy white colors casting a holistic glow on the brushed floorboards and antique bits and pieces. A young, ebullient Canadian couple are your hosts, and under their watch this retreat has bloomed into something truly special. Looking onto 300-year-old trees, the living room is the epitome of the good country life with its roaring fireplace and Chesterfield sofas. Exploring further, discover a wine chamber, Finnish sauna and individually designed suites themed on the works of former resident and novelist Leonie Ossowski. Don’t forget to book Atlas and Laggatos for a two-hour trot through the forests or to the town of Wschówa – it’s the cutest town you’ve never heard of!

Pałac Osowa Sień Osowa Sień, palacosowasien.comSuites from zł. 250 per night for solo travelers (zł. 375 for couples) warsawinsider.pl

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XMAS SEASON WONDERS

Assuming it will, at one stage, tip it down with snow, the holiday season makes for the perfect time to crack out the mittens and head outdoors…

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Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2019

GET YER’ SKATES ON For the last few years the National Stadium has become the

default choice for family tribes: one visit, and you understand why. Transformed each winter into an immense, 5,000 sq/m ice rink, the pitch area of this covered stadium features numerous attractions including an Alpine-styled adult-only bar serving mulled wine, cheesy disco nights on ice, curling facilities and the opportunity to slide down a 12-meter ice hill in a rubber dinghy. For deets, check: zimowynarodowy.pl.

Of the best of the rest, open-air rinks will open in the shadow of the Palace of Culture as well as in the Old Town’s Rynek, though for something more intimate then it’s hard to go wrong with Pl. Europejski. Ringed with little wooden cabins, and with the Warsaw Spire twinkling above, it’s a little more private but equally alluring.

SHUTTERSTOCK (3)

Have An Ice Day!

OR SLED INSTEAD… There’s a good chance that clanking sound that woke you

up in the morning was the damned neighbors hauling their heirloom toboggan from out of the basement: the tiniest bit of snow is all that’s needed to spark a sledding frenzy. Every local will have a favorite hill on which to engage in vaguely suicidal capers, though it’s the Old Town’s Podzamce that’s historically the most popular. Elsewhere, Morskie Oko and Królikarnia in Mokotów both have impressive slopes as do Park Sowiński and Park Moczydło in Wola. Worry not if you’re lacking equipment, the breakfast tray will do: your landlord will never know.

HERE TO SLEIGH Slugging it out in the gridlocked traffic, it becomes easy to

forget that we live right next door to glorious Kampinos.

Covering an area approaching 400 sq/km, this pristine nature reserve comes into its element each winter when fully cloaked in snow. You’re welcome to crack out the crosscountry skis, but exploring this Narnia-style scenery is best done on a kulig. Bundled under thick blankets, and often armed with a flask of something warming, these horse-drawn carriages will take you through fairytale landscapes populated by elk, deer and lynx. Numerous firms offer such fleeting escapes (just feed the words ‘Kulig Kampinos’ into Google), with many such trips culminating in an ognisko after – a bonfire involving sausages on sticks and long glugs of vodka. warsawinsider.pl

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Secrets Of St. John’s

Religious or not, those peering into St. John’s Cathedral find themselves richly rewarded…

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o credible tour of Warsaw’s Old Town can finish without taking in the glories of St. John’s Cathedral. Though a sublime sight throughout the year, it’s at Christmas when it fills up with patriotic banners, nativity scenes and glittering Christmas trees: the effect is breathtaking and belies the quite ordinary, dare we say it, bland exterior.

Dating from the 14th century, the capital’s most significant sacral building

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Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2019

found itself routinely embellished over the centuries to the stage that by the beginning of WWII it was a striking example of the English Neo Gothic style. Heavily damaged during the ’44 Warsaw Uprising, what little remained was finished off by German sappers later that November: nowadays, a track from a Borgward IV, a German remote controlled demolition vehicle, adorns the flank of the Cathedral complete with a plaque incorrectly identifying it as belonging to a Goliath.

Rebuilt in its original form between 1947 and 1952, its cultural importance is impossible to dispute: not only was it the location of the coronation of Poland’s last king, but also the site of the signing of the 1791 Constitution – the first such in Europe and the second oldest in the world. And there’s the crypt, resting place to dukes, monarchs and premiers – among them the internationally renowned pianist and Prime Minister Ignacy Jan Paderewski whose remains were returned from America in 1992 by George Bush Sr. Interred in Arlington up until then, Paderewski had explicitly stated prior to his death in 1941 that his coffin should only be returned to Poland when it was once again a free country.

Lesser publicized are the Cathedral’s smaller details: for instance, a 16th century wooden crucifix from Nuremberg and a 17th century baptismal font shattered into dozens of pieces during the war only to be subsequently restored. Even the main doors are notable. The details they offer are incredible with depicted scenes including St. John’s head resting on the executioner’s block (before later, ending in a basket).

It was outside this entrance that, in 1620, a deranged nobleman called Michał Piekarski ambushed King Zygmunt III as he made his way to a sermon and tried to club him to death with a war hammer. Zygmunt survived and Piekarski was tortured before being blasted from a canon. The assassination attempt led to the creation of a covered walkway leading from the castle to the cathedral, and today you can walk that yourself by visiting The Archdiocesan Museum. Of its other curiosities, you view a 15th century sculpture of Christ with moving arms (!) and a replica of Piekarski’s weapon of choice.

PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE SHUTTERSTOCK, OPPOSITE BY KEVIN DEMARIA

XMAS SEASON WONDERS

Back From The Brink

Having survived the Holocaust, Tykocin’s preserved synagogue today flourishes as a major tourist attraction of this quaint little town…

A

s staunchly and overwhelmingly Catholic as Poland is, much press has been awarded to the Jewish renewal that the nation is undergoing.

Evidenced in the larger cities, and most specifically in Kraków and Warsaw, Jewish life is thriving once again following not just the Holocaust, but the mass migration that came with the government’s anti-Zionist policy of 1968. In the words of Poland’s chief rabbi, Michael Schudrich, a situation has now been reached in which a “young-ing” community has developed as young adult Poles uncover and embrace their Jewish heritage.

But while it is Poland’s two largest city’s that best illustrate the rejuvenation of Jewish life – not least via their crazy popular annual cultural festivals – the lesser towns and cities have also given rise to dim flickers of optimism.

Whilst in many former shtetls (small villages and urban areas that had, prior to the war, a predominantly Jewish population) synagogues have been allowed to go to seed, other municipalities have moved to protect them for reasons ranging from simple memory and cultural significance to

factors rooted in tourist income.

The pretty town of Tykocin, approximately 180 kilometers north east of Warsaw, is one such example. Once voted one of the Seven Wonders of Poland by readers of National Geographic, its synagogue dates from 1642 though was remodeled 200-years later after suffering a fire. Pillaged by the Nazis and used as a warehouse during the war, for years after it was used to store fertilizer until reopening on December 17th, 1976 as one of the few Jewish museums in communist Poland.

Now visited by an estimated 60,000 people annually, its numerous highlights include restored polychromes, a Torah Ark and a spectacular Bimah. Prompted by headphone guides, these details are in themselves worth a visit but further complimented by a fine exhibition telling the story of Tykocin’s Jews – murdered in the nearby forests by the Nazis, at a stroke the town lost half its population. An ambitious but worthy daytrip from Warsaw, what’s seen as one of the best preserved synagogues in the country stands as a defiant monument to the fallacy of the war. warsawinsider.pl

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CH H P RI i ar ST gh tn M li er AS g SP hts EC IA L!

Take It Slow!

Dubbed ‘the slowest fair this winter’, find the best of Polish fashion and design presented inside a post-industrial complex in the heart of Praga Południe. Placing an emphasis on creativity, over 350 niche brands will gather to offer original designs, clothing, eco cosmetics and accessories.

Featuring plenty of products for kids as well, additional attractions are set to include a gastronomic market with live cooking and culinary workshops, a book fair, vinyl market, films for kids and manual workshops. “Buy Better Gifts” is this edition’s catchphrase, with the Slow Weekend purposefully held in the first half of December to allow visitors the chance to get their Xmas shopping done without the usual panicked last-minute madness.

Slow Weekend 7-8 December ul. Mińska 65, slowweekend.pl, open 11 a.m. till 7 p.m.

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Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2019

CH H P RI i ar ST gh tn M li er AS g SP hts EC IA L!

Choose Only The Best!

For an unforgettable Christmas, choose the perfect gift from MOKOSH… WITH THE ONLY such gift sets on the market, the Polish brand MOKOSH instantly im-

presses with its minimalist styling: with their signature elegant overprint, our eco-friendly, crimson-colored boxes don’t need additional decorations. Offering ready-made proposals as well as customized sets, our cosmetics are packed in glass and use only natural formulas to care for your body and face – the magical scents have already become a cult hit.

For the home spa sensation then our Spicy Orange or Cranberry sets are ideal for the body whilst Raspberry or Fig are rich in ingredients that will nourish and moisturize the face. For your convenience, each set can be wrapped as a gift and delivered to your address free of charge. Discover our full range at: mokosh.pl / mokosh.eu.

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Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2019

The Perfect Set For Your Brows

Long lashes and beautiful, well highlighted eyebrows are every woman’s dream…

AT EYEBAR our team meets needs through their perfect eyebrow care and makeup products. Specializing in eyebrow styling for several years, Eyebar is the first firm in Poland to focus on the most important element of the face: the eyebrows.

For the perfect gift this year, look at ALL ABOUT eyeBROWS, an eyebrow makeup pencil in seven coffee-colored shades: 01 Iced Coffee, 02 Cafe Au Lait, 03 Dark Espresso, 04 Flat White, 05 Golden Bean, 06 Carmel Macchiato, 07 Hot Chocolate.

Further, don’t forget our BROW OIL, a veritable elixir for the eyebrows and lashes. This product has been created using natural ingredients such as coconut oil, castrol oil, argan oil, black cumin seed oil and Vitamin E, all of which help stimulate and strengthen the roots, thereby making both the eyebrows and eyelashes grow healthier, thicker and longer.

If you dream about having the perfect brows, our sets are available from Eyebar salons or online at our website.

Eyebar www: eyebar.pl fb: @EyebarPolska ig: eyebar_polska

warsawinsider.pl

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CH H P RI i ar ST gh tn M li er AS g SP hts EC IA L!

Picture Perfect!

All year beauty from FOREO’s Picture Perfect portfolio…

THIS CHRISTMAS, up your giving game with long-lasting, luxury beauty sets that will last all year long. The work of FOREO, the Swedish beauty tech brand has launched three sets under its Picture Perfect range that include LUNA facial cleansing products and limited edition UFO items for those that live on the go. So whether they’ve been naughty or nice, love luxury home spa solutions or simply need a convenient beauty regime, these gift sets will leave your loved ones radiant and glowing for the whole of next year!

Water Bottle If you think of skincare as important as body care then this Picture Perfect set comes complete with a cool water bottle as well as a handy 20ml micro-foam cleanser and personal smart coach: the iconic LUNA fofo. The whole set fits snugly inside the bottle making it ideal as a stocking filler and gym bag essential. It’s the gift that keeps on giving as the LUNA fofo’s AI-enabled algorithms learn about its users’ skin habits and adapt to its cleansing routine to suit skin conditions.

Available at branches of Sephora

UFO & LUNA mini 2 If your loved one has a penchant for the finer things in life then the world’s first ever smart masking device is the answer! This award-winning beauty tech device gives spa-level facials all year round and works with a selection of UFO Activated Masks which make the perfect stocking filler. Doubling the surprise, this Picture Perfect Set comes complete with the planet’s favorite cleansing item: the LUNA mini 2. Gadget fans will love it!

Available at Douglas, Sephora and online at: foreo.com

LUNA & Serum Serum Serum For those invested in a daily skincare regime, the LUNA 3 and Serum Serum Serum is a delightful gift touting the latest market innovations such as LUNA 3, the world’s softest facial cleansing product, and Serum’s triple threat formula. Together, these are a match made in beauty heaven and will leave her with filter free skin all year long.

Available at Douglas, Sephora and online at: foreo.com

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Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2019

In The Bag!

Elegant, functional and in tune with ideas of sustainable fashion, the new collection from Mandel has landed with a splash…

SHOT IN ANALOG by the super talented Tatiana and Karol, the photo session to promote the latest Autumn / Winter collection from Mandel was blessed by the last of the summer sun when it was staged in East Berlin – the beating heart of Europe’s vintage fashion scene.

This choice of location was not a coincidence.

Referring to our latest concept, Circular Mandel, we’ve sought a more socially responsible direction by rediscovering the beauty in the ‘old’. Going hand-in-hand with the creation of a Mandel Second Hand boutique, items from our new collection will be available for rental, and we’ve also tweaked our production process to utilize recycled leather as well as vegetable tanned leather. When designing the collection, we chose solutions that would ensure greater longevity of our bags, with changing straps, handles, fringes and wheels meaning that our bags can move with the times and never go out of fashion.

The latest Mandel collection features four new models and we’ve been careful to upgrade their elegance whilst keeping their functionality in mind. To meet this aim, this season we’ve focused in on autumn-colored crocodile skin and ‘amber’ geometric elements.

Mandel Nowogrodzka 18A/106, mandel-store.com

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CH H P RI i ar ST gh tn M li er AS g SP hts EC IA L!

A Creamy Christmas!

Natural products that will maximize your beauty…

CREAMY OFFERS VEGAN face care cosmetics

that visibly improve the condition of the skin and emphasize its beauty at all ages. The recipes are based on natural vegetable oils whose beneficial effects on the skin have been known for centuries. Creamy is the first brand in the country to offer Haitian moringa oil, which significantly strengthens and nourishes the skin.

For Christmas, we’ve prepared a variety of gift sets (from zł. 99 to 299) that have been composed to address the needs of both mature and young skin; dry and mixed. The Creamy offer includes premium sets with comprehensive facial care in mind, including cleansing, hydration and nutrition. In these, find bestselling products such as, for instance, Moringa For You face cleansing and make-up oil, which will effectively remove impurities and makeup (even waterproof). The attractiveness of these sets is enriched by elegant, glass and returnable packaging.

Creamy Atelier & SPA ul. Chmielna 6 (Warsaw), creamy.pl

Female Style

Turn heads with La Mania…

LA MANIA IS A POLISH FASHION HOUSE

created by Joanna Przetakiewicz boasting excellent designs that utilize high quality materials and precision workmanship. Available since 2012, La Mania has retailed in some of the Europe’s best-known stores, including Harrods and Browns in London and Excelsior in Milan – in fact, such is the brand’s standing, Karl Lagerfeld is its Honorary Patron.

The brand’s goal is to create a luxurious line for modern and self-aware women who, through fashion, can build a striking new image. With each creation emphasizing a woman’s natural charm and beauty, La Mania’s look is comfortable and exclusive. From their bestsellers list is La Mania’s embroidered t-shirt (zł.

249) which makes for a surefire hit if given for Christmas present. Find the brand stocked inside the new wing of the Moliera 2 Salon and at: www.moliera2.com

Moliera 2 ul. Moliera 2, www.moliera2.com

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Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2019

NEW

DISCOVER THE POWER OF JAPANESE SKINCARE CHOOSE JAPAN LIFT CREAM APROPRIATE FOR YOUR AGE

40+

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JAPAN LIFT is a unique line of anti-wrinkle lifting cosmetics for mature skin, based on ultra-effective SYN®AKE, Peptide, which is an innovative active ingredient intended to imitate the tightening effect of ADDER VENOM TOXIN. The Peptide blocks cyclic facial muscles micro cramps responsible for formation of wrinkles thus resulting in effective skin lifting. It visibly smooths existing wrinkles and prevents formation of new ones.

CH H P RI i ar ST gh tn M li er AS g SP hts EC IA L!

State Of Zen

When only the best will do, pamper yourself at Fifth Avenue Warszawa…

Yon-Ka Facials Le Grand Classique

Refine and nourish the skin with Yon-Ka Le Grand Classique Facial. Destress as you’re taken through a journey of pore-refining bliss with a face massage designed to leave the skin purified.

Time Resist

The perfect answer to visible signs of ageing. Designed to meet specific needs by combining “youth-activation” agents with an alpha and beta hydroxy peel, the treatment refines the skin texture and boosts overall cell renewal.

Eclat Cocoon Facial

An aromatic compress and essential oil mist begin your journey followed by a vegetable exfoliation and intense hydration mask. Including hot stones and a facial mas-

Pumpkin Spice Package Face winter with a warming pedicure and manicure that revels in the scent of pumpkin and spices – this treatment guarantees your hands and feet look impeccable through December!

Pedicure

With this sumptuous treatment you’ll find your feet immersed in a bath thick with the warming aroma of pumpkin. Prepare to say goodbye to rough skin: perfectly smoothed with a mill or grater, your feet will

sage, a contouring mask completes the treatment leaving the skin soft, smooth and glowing.

Hydralessence

Reinvigorate skin with intensely moisturising Yon-Ka Hydralessence Facial. Softening seaweeds and fruit extracts to refresh skin with hydrating exfoliation.

Restore balance and harmony to leave a soft and supple complexion for a dry skin transformation.

Escale Beaute

Targeted at those with busy schedules, this mini treatment will leave your complexion clearer and calmer with the skin appearing hydrated and moist as well as youthful and rested. All this in just 40-minutes! then be exfoliated with an aromatic scrub. After, enjoy a foot massage based on balms utilizing warming spices before having your nails painted.

Manicure

Continue your journey into this heavenly aromatic state with one of our luxurious manicures. With your fingertips first soaked in water tinged with pumpkin oil and spices, we’ll then apply a nourishing peeling and moisturizing lotion so that your hands are ready for the challenges of winter. They’ll look so good that it becomes tempting to forget the gloves altogether.

Fifth Avenue Warszawa ul. Mokotowska 49, tel. 692 692 632, fifthavenuewarszawa.pl

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Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2019

Bigger & Even Better Than Before!

At Moliera 2 we’ve expanded to cover new grounds and concepts…

KNOWN AS ‘the boutique of the stars’, at

Moliera 2 Salon we delighted to announce our expansion. Opened in October, the new section is more casual in its selection with labels such as One Teaspoon, Kenzo, Canada Goose, Marc Jacobs and the Polish brand La Mania all represented; and in the cosmetics section, covet brands such as Tom Ford, Balmain, 3LAB, Apot Care, Grown Alchemist, Etat Libre D'Orange, St Tropez and Dr Russo. This selection will grow yet further in the future.

Additionally, visitors can now enjoy a new pop-up zone featuring a frequent rotation of brands – find only the hottest and most desirable brands of the season. The entire range is also available in our online store.

Moliera 2 ul. Moliera 2, moliera2.com

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First Bite

PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

THE FEST OF THE BEST

A new look for an old favorite…

>>

warsawinsider.pl

31

EAT! News

Fest Port Czerniakowski ul. Zaruskiego 8, fest.rest

OPENINGS

FOOD FOR FORT

Warsaw’s penchant for reviving historical addresses and injecting them with bold food concepts shows no sign of abating: for latest proof, refer to Fort 8, a 19th century Tsarist barracks since reimagined as a complex housing workshops, stores and restaurants. Belonging to the latter group find, among others, Dziurka Od Klucza (already famed for their Powiśle venture), Garo Sushi, Fort Whisky and Fort Bistro.

With more openings set to follow, and a location bordering Ursynów, Mokotów and Wilanów, this could yet emerge as the area’s F&B anchor.

PIZZA MY HEART

Drumroll please for the return of Andrea Scarantino. Just a month after closing his two eateries, one of Warsaw’s favorite Italians is back with a bang, relaunching Mamma Marrietta on Górnośląska 24, formerly the site of his Amuni pizzeria. As before, pizza plays a big role, and its pretty likely to feature in any future rundowns of the best Warsaw offers. Padded out with a range of other expertly prepped Italian classics, we’re expecting this to blossom into a firm foodie fave.

FEELIN’ CHICKEN

They’ve conquered Muranów, now the same mob behind Kura have the Mordor section of Mokotów in their crosshairs.

Opened on Obrzeżna 3 just as the Insider was toddling off to the printing house, Version 2.0 promises a hip industrial look and, from what we gather, much the same menu that’s seduced the north: crispy chicken fillets, spicy buffalo wings, homemade fries and an array of adventurous sauces such as pineapple with Thai chili – it’s dude food in its most heartwarming form: Mokotów, you’re in for a blast!

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Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2019

PHOTOGRAPHS LEFT; KEVIN DEMARIA, ABOVE AGNIESZKA SZPILOWSKA

T

here are those that claim Fest’s best months are in summer, and sure, their argument is convincing: hidden down twisting roads flanked by glinting waters and thick, tangled woodland, it’s an unexpected picture of pastoral bliss – every bit as satisfying as arriving to a rural refuge. But make no mistake, winter ain’t bad either. The trees may have shed their leaves, but there’s something magical about the approach that brings to mind an out-of-town escape: an odd sensation given the stone’s throw proximity of downtown Warsaw.

This, though, you probably know already, not least because we’ve written about Fest at considerable length before. So what’s changed?

Much! First, what was once a dark-looking timber lodge has had a thorough revamp: extra windows have been bashed in to go hand-inhand with a general restyling that’s lent a lighter, brighter edge whilst losing none of the warm intimacy that everyone loved before.

Sure, that’s all well and good, but it’s the addition of Agata Wojda that has got foodies talking. Best-known for her time at Opasły Tom, her presence has added a finesse to a place that was formerly recognized as a primordial celebration of meat and brawn. Of course, they’ve still kept established crowd favorites like the ribs and sausages (there would be a revolution if they didn’t), only now these are settled next to other highly seasonal choices that demonstrate the depth of Wojda’s talent. A hymn to Poland’s rural resources, her cooking bridges fanciful sophistication with homely familiarity. The goose confit on red cabbage, pea puree and deep, extravagant sauces rams this point home, but so too do her buckwheat pierogi and beetroot starter. Feeling emotive and correct, this is food that compels: honest, natural and not short on taste. If Fest was brilliant before, now it’s just got even better.

SPECIAL TASTING MENU FOR READERS OF WARSAW INSIDER BOTTLE OF CHINESE WINE MOSER XV FOR FREE!

+48 512 671 756 kontakt@panska85.com.pl panska85.com

EAT! Listings

THE DAWN OF A NEW EPOCH

Seizing its inspirations from the past, Epoka boldly takes fine dining in fresh, new directions…

F

our or five years ago it was all about fine dining: it was in these restaurants that the exciting stuff was happening. Shelling out a grand for dinner? No problem, you knew it would be worth it for the adventure ahead. But the food revolution waits for no-one, and it wasn’t long till the spotlight was switched to new themes and concepts: Asian street food, neobistros, upmarket food halls, funky vegan stop-offs and contemporary local eateries with no tablecloth in sight. All of a sudden, the uber posh dining rooms were left looking a little like stale, soulless planets aimlessly circling the real action and invention. Crisis in the top bracket?

Maybe not. The more established big ticket venues have continued to prosper and progress, but you’d definitely call it a challenging environment for a newbie to enter. At Epoka, however, that challenge has been relished.

Design

Sweeping back a curtain, the reception reveals itself in a joy of plush forestcolored fabrics, wavy black and white floor patterns and a gleaming chandelier that hangs miles above. Stepping beyond, the principal dining room is both high impact and theatrical but also low-key and intimate: preserved 19th century cornices, dark baroque-style drapes and an enveloping sense of luxury at its purest. For more raucous gatherings, a separate chamber sits close by and has been designed in a Romany-style whose warm auburn shades pair with exotic glass lighting.

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Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2019

Epoka ul. Ossolińskich 3, epoka.restaurant

“

Of course, there is more. It’s common to see diners taking leave from their table to file out to the kitchen to see the chefs at work, and you’re definitely encouraged to do so yourself – seeing them firsthand is a stupefying sight. For the best perch of all, a chef’s table sits at the head of the glassed-in kitchen offering prime views of the activity in front.

Now ready to

stand at the pass himself, this is a chef with the potential to go massive

Chef

If Marcin Przybysz looks familiar, then so he bloody well should. The winner of the third edition of the Top Chef program, his background involves a stint as sous chef at Atelier Amaro and assorted roles in the fabled kitchens of Osteria Francescana, Noma and Geranium. Put bluntly, he’s studied under the best and in Epoka this shows. Now ready to stand at the pass himself, this is a chef with the potential to go massive.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Concept

Although hardly standard, it’s becoming ever more common to hear of chefs hitting the history books to seek their inspiration. In Epoka, mind you, they’ve gone the whole nine yards by basing the contents of their entire menu upon Polish cookbooks from different epochs (hence the name, dummy!). Now on their second menu since launching, the latest sees recipes from 1682 (Poland’s first such manuscript), 1783, 1871, 1926 and 1931 reconstructed in a way that’s innovative, unexpected and a roller coaster of thrills.

As a case in point, see the bigos (1931). Now usually, you might associate such a dish with big, belchy evenings in a snowed-in mountain cabin. Here, it’s served almost ramenstyle (both dishes, says our server, are thought to have been originally coined round the same time), the focal point being a rich cabbage broth featuring wasabi leaves harvested in Poland.

Alongside, components such as wild boar ham, venison and deer cheeks sit individually ready to be added to the broth at the diner’s discretion. The results are heavenly.

The Glory Bits

So the bigos are brilliant, but that overlooks a menu with more highlights

than you could possibly imagine.

Eating here, you discover tastes and sensations you never thought existed: a sweet and boozy pumpkin pottage with lashings of rum; jellied apple compote; razor thin chestnut with marinated celeriac. Oh gosh moments stack up by the minute. There is smoked wagyu beef that melts on the tongue served with Bavarian dumplings and an onion velouté; wild forest duck in various combinations; and a salvo of desserts that leave you floored – an ice cream utilizing buttermilk, celery and bay leaf oil has you wishing you could pause the moment for at least forever.

The Numbers

There’s no two ways about it. Whoever is footing the bill will spend an arm and a leg. Tasting menus begin at zł. 250 (10 recipes) and rise to zł. 400 (20 recipes), while a la carte options average at zł.

150 for starters and zł. 170 for mains.

Not cheap, is it, so reassure your bank card it’s still an absolute steal compared to restaurants of this level found in London or Paris.

Final Thoughts

Difficult as it is to decipher the scribbles, the words “world class” and variations thereof form the bulk of our notes. A visionary experience from start to finish, in Epoka you’re left thanking your lucky stars that such restaurants exist. And on the subject of stars, it’s surely inevitable that the future will see some Michelin recognition. Anything less would be a miscarriage of justice. warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! REVIEW

BREAKFAST OF CHAMPIONS

The hunt for Warsaw’s top breakfast…

R

oughly ranked round about No. 87 in the series of questions that the Insider team hears each and every day, “where can I have breakfast” is one of those age old queries often thrown down as a challenge. And by God, in the past, finding a good brekkie often really was. Recent years have proved kinder, with quality rising in correlation with the expanding choice, but even so it remains a moot question that doesn’t lend itself to easy answers. At least that was the case until the reopening of the iconic Hotel Europejski.

The Place

Revived and rebadged under the banner of Raffles, its June 2018 inauguration was the culmination of a gorgeous restoration that saw no expense spared. A benchmark in luxury, it follows that its restaurant is a place of merit seemingly designed with the letter ‘s’ in mind: stylish, sumptuous, swish and special. Decked out in cream and tan shades, hexagonal lighting installations and bold, blue ceramics clinging to the walls, it looks the part with a character that bridges the classic with the contemporary to stunning effect. Rarefied in its atmosphere, it’s a place ideally suited to easing into the day ahead.

There is, it goes without saying, a continental buffet station loaded with freshly baked breads and muffins, cured farmhouse meats, artisanal cheeses and organic cereals, but it’s the a la carte options that really ring out: crushed avocado for instance, served with feta, duqqa and a poached egg on sourdough (zł. 34), or what could be a candidate for the best eggs benedict (zł. 36) found this side of New York.

For all that, it’s the Europejski Breakfast (zł. 65) that’s the star of the show. Clearly inspired by the British breakfast, it’s a joy of fried proteins: crispy Złotnicka bacon; farmhouse mushrooms; local sausages made especially for the Europejski; eggs served sunny side up; and a plump tomato roasted overnight. With a side of beans, themselves pimped up with garlic oil, and some unexpectedly delicious pickles, it’s a life affirming way to christen the morning. Say it quietly, but the Insider’s not had a breakfast like this in all its time in Warsaw.

Europejski Grill ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13 (Raffles Europejski Warsaw), raffles.com/warsaw

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Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2019

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

The Breakfast

FOOD • DRINKS • NIGHTLIFE FRIDAY & SATURDAY RES TAU RA N T 19:00-23:00

NIGHTLIFE 23:00-05:00

RESERVATIONS mob. +48 883 025 025 reservations@senwarsaw.pl Wioślarska 6 | 00-411 Warsaw senwarsaw.pl

/ SEN warsaw

/ SEN warsaw

T THE BESFOOD AN AMERICARS AW IN W Brooklyn House is THE destination for best burgers, hot-dogs and steaks in the heart of Warsaw. Being a truly American joint, we’re extremely proud of our meats and selection of cocktails and beers. Brooklyn is a cool, hip and relaxed place where you and your friends can chill. It is especially known for its top atmosphere during all sports events which you can watch on our numerous screens. You think burgers and steaks – head straight to Brooklyn by ONZ roundabout.

Jana Pawła II 18 00-116 Warsaw Reservation: + 48 22 114 34 34

find us:

/Brooklyn Restaurant & Bar /BrooklynRestaurantandBar /@brooklyn_burgersnsteaks

EAT! review

Świętoszek Tartuffe ul. Jezuicka 6/8, swietoszek.pl

LOOK WHOSE BACK

The reopening of Świętoszek Tartuffe presents a compelling reason to linger longer around Old Town…

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Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2019

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

I

t’s late November: as darkness falls in Old Town, crowds disperse to the point that only distant shuffling figures keep the side streets from appearing empty. Cloaked in a thin, frosty mist, the feeling is of being in another world. But rather than acting as a deterrent, it’s conditions like this that make the area so special. Muffled against the cold, who doesn’t enjoy the feeling of finding refuge in an atmospheric cellar.

Renovated by the renowned stage designers Marcin and Mateusz Stajewski, Świętoszek Tartuffe is exactly such a place, a subterranean venue set with arcing brick walls and polished bits of fancy: elegant enough for something special yet casual enough for walkins. Originally founded in 1986 by the Theater Guild to act as a space in which performers could socialize, four years of renovation have seen it reprised as a handsome eatery that celebrates all the reasons to love Poland: hospitality, human warmth and big, heartfelt tastes.

Blending his enthusiasm for Polish cuisine with his own carefully honed sense of flavor and aesthetics, chef Stanisław Nowogródzki is exactly the kind of fellow you need cooking in winter: his baked beetroot with raspberry, blackberry, sheep cheese and caramelized walnuts is a riot of flavors, whilst tartare is revealed from a smoking glass dome to present itself in a joyous mix of premium beef, runny egg yolk and all the chopped add-ons that make it such a classic. Pierogi – both Russian and Polish-style – are the kind some would die for, and the pumpkin soup a deep, delicious dish of almost velvet thickness. This is Poland at its most authentic.

The killer blow, though, is struck by a deer steak served with juniper sauce, a curl of bacon, stuffed cabbage and beetroot. You see dishes like this on many menus in Old Town, but in an area rigged with rip-offs and disappointments, there are none that compete with the serving in here. Immensely satisfying, conclude as we did with the Kajmak cake.

A modernization of the original 1986 recipe, its crunchy chocolate goodness is matched with a quenelle of forest fruit sorbet. There can be no complaints, none whatsoever. In Świętoszek Tartuffe, you leave having eaten well and enjoyed every minute – if that isn’t the hallmark of a good restaurant, then what the hell is?

Sp Par ot tne lig r ht

NEW BEGINNINGS, HAPPY ENDINGS Enjoy metropolitan style at the revamped Metropol Hotel…

Y

ou’d be hard pressed to find a more central location: within whispering distance of Metro Centrum, for years the geographical coordinates of the Metropol Hotel have drawn an endless fleet of both tourists and business travelers. Now, they have reasons beyond just convenience to make this their first port-of-call.

Subject to a top-to-bottom renewal, the fruits of this thorough program of renovation are immediately apparent the moment one enters: presenting itself in cooling shades the color of steel, a turn to the left ushers visitors into the metro jazz bar & bistro, a venue that breathes the spirit of modern Warsaw: vibrant and international, it’s here people gather around a circular bar lit with dangling overhead bulbs. Slick and clean cut, it’s a smooth backdrop for classic cocktails fixed with enthusiastic verve.

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Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER DECEMBER 2019

A turn to the left ushers visitors into the metro jazz bar & bistro, a venue that breathes the spirit of modern Warsaw...

Yet this is but a part of the metro jazz bar and bistro’s simmering allure. Tinkling in the background, live music and jazz each Thursday and Saturday draw visitors over immaculately polished floors and deeper into a long, lounge-like dining room set with soft, discreet lighting, black and white images of PRL period Warsaw and and colorful that seats that lend a lively dynamic.

Honed to fit this laidback, lounge-like backdrop is a menu that’s firmly in line with the metropolitan design.

Broad in its scope, classic Polish elements sit alongside the kind of international mainstays that everyone loves to see: tartare, rendered and presented exactly as it should, is a heady mix of red raw beef, mixed pickles, marinated mushrooms and a glistening egg yolk; for mains, there is a jubilant assembly of duck with cranberry, plum mousse, gnocchi and apple, while fish lovers are rewarded with zander complimented by cherry tomatoes and a series of mushrooms. But are they better than the veal cutlets? That’s a matter for debate back over drinks at the bar. metro jazz bar & bistro ul. Marszałkowska 99A (Metropol Hotel), hotelmetropol.com.pl

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EAT! Listings

By in large, you can expect to pay between zł. 20-35 for starters, and zł.

35-70 for mains. Expect those prices to double in the case of the city’s fine dining venues. Those wishing to cut costs should seek out the weekday business lunch deals now offered by most restaurants. When tipping, 10-20% is considered polite though be aware of automatic service charges in some venues.

onions and a lash of sriracha aioli) are bold, unexpected and utterly delicious.

Fun, innovative and pleasingly casual, it’s a bit like visiting friends who really know how to cook. Take it all in inside a brill interior that’s all Sputnik lights, intriguing artwork and mustard-toned finishes. (D5) ul. Wilcza 43, kokoandroywarsaw.com

bakeries american 42 balkan 42 chinese 2 comfort food 42 desserts 44 fine dining 45 food halls & happenings 50 french 46 georgian 47 greek & turkish 47 hungarian 48 indian 48 international 49 italian 54 japanese 54 jewish 55 korean 55 latin & spanish 56 mexican 56 middle eastern 57 polish 58 scandinavian 58 seafood 58 steak houses 62 thai 62 vegan 63 vietnamese 64

Aromat That many consider this their favorite bakery says it all. French flour and an expert baker ensure brilliant results, while the lemon éclairs deserve their own Facebook page. (C4) ul. Sienna 39, fb.com/ piekarnia.aromat Charlotte While the fancy crowd isn’t to everyone’s liking, the atmosphere feels truly continental: even more so in warm weather when the terrace packs out. Al. Wyzwolenia 18 (enter from pl. Zbawiciela) & Pl. Gryzbowski 2, bistrocharlotte.com Rano The rise of Stalowa street is to be taken seriously, and the existence of Rano is one rather good reason. Looking – and smelling – like you’d imagine an artisanal bakery to be, the standard is such that a number of the city’s top restaurants have begun ordering from here. You will as well. ul. Stalowa 47

sophisticated hand has not, however, been to the detriment of taste. Of the favorites, the swordfish steak, lamb goulash and beef plejskavica sell particularly well. It feels all the more complete with a rakija or three. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 47 (entry from ul. Koszykowa 53), nabalkany.pl

chinese

Pańska 85 Ample in size, the interiors speak of money well spent. This is especially true because despite the luxury trimmings Pańska looks good without ever losing its dignity. With their kitchen staff headhunted from across China, the food sets a standard that has yet to be seen in any Chinese restaurant in Warsaw: there’s delicate salmon rolls wrapped in mango; dim sum that are pouches of pure goodness; and Sichuan-style pork that’s a blaze of sizzle and spice. The Beijing Duck, carved and served table-side, is the highlight. (B4) ul. Pańska 85, panska85.com

SAM Co-owner Małgorzata Kusina-Doran is a fine-bread connoisseur, honing her skills at a bread-making course chaired

by Raymond Blanc. While SAM have expanded to cover numerous locations, this has not been to the cost of the overall quality. Many locations, sam.info.pl

Regina Bar Taking their inspiration from New York’s Little Italy and Chinatown, the menu at Regina is the very definition of ethnic comfort food: won-ton dumplings, ribs in sticky hoisin sauce and the best-selling General Tso chicken – famed for its healing properties, it’s one of the best hangover remedies around. On the Italian front, leopard-spotted pizzas land are presented with wheel-bladed knives in a kooky, retro interior featuring a dangling chandelier and the tallest mirror in Poland (possibly). (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, fb.com/Reginabar

american

balkan

comfort food

Koko & Roy Spotlighting ‘New American Cuisine’, the thrust here is on comfort food, albeit several steps beyond what you’d rustle up at home: the Odds & Ends (deep fried pigs tails and chicken hearts tumbled into a big bowl and served with pickled red

Na Bałkany This newbie modernizes the Balkan experience in a manner Warsaw’s yet to see: raw, industrial aesthetics meet head on with a menu that adds a delicate finesse to a cuisine better known for its heavy, rustic style. The addition of a light,

Kura Pairing fried chicken with double-fried chunky chips, think of this budget stop as an artisanal take on KFC for the posthipster generation. And best of all, check their homemade sauces: from the tart and spicy Challenger No. 3, to the tangy

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GURU REDEFINES

MODERN INDIAN CUISINE

Our focus from the start has been to create modern Indian dishes and drinks, served in a relaxed space. We combine local seasonal ingredients with the authentic flavors, aromas and spices of India and the orient.

Widok 8, Warszawa www.gururestauracja.pl facebook.com/gururestauracja TEL. 22 857 0604

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EAT! Listings Mango-BBQ option, these are sauces that open the gateway to addiction. The ultimate definition of comfort food, look on Kura as one of the city’s best examples of street food culture gone right. (B2) ul.

Nowolipki 15, restauracjakura.pl Kur & Wino It’s hard to fault a concept when it’s executed this well. In this case, that means chicken from Podlasie and guineafowl from Wielkopolska cooked rotisserie-style and then served with an array of homemade sauces. And then there’s the sandwiches, beautiful things served on focaccia and smeared with honey mustard. Sure, you could call it street food, but doing so underestimates the level of love awarded to the product.

That you’ll be enjoying it in a cool, funky backdrop makes it all the better: outside, sit amid crates filled with palms, inside, among funky-style furnishings that pair well with the PRL look of this highceilinged chamber. (C1) ul. Andersa 21, fb.com/kurwino Pogromcy Meatów Dude food doesn’t get much better.

Specializing in slow-cooked meats, find artisan buns stuffed with ribs, beef tongue, pastrami and the like before being given extra oomph with locally grown greens, homemade kimchi or house pickles. A savage, primal pleasure of dripping sauce and juicy meat, the

homespun quality of Pogromcy Meatów catapults it above the competition. (E6) ul.

Koszykowa 1 Przyjemność It’s a squeeze alright, with all manner of jiggling and jostling needed before taking your position amid a design that feels cool and millennial: plants, wire mesh panels and a bit of funky neon. Food, and Californian pizza is the order of day, with wacky choices including Gringo Chicken, a wondrous creation that features dollops of sour cream and guacamole thwacked onto heaps of achiote chicken, jalapeno, coriander and red onion. It sounds daft, but it’s become our fave pizza of the year – and the spritzers are damn good as well. (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 68/70, fb.com/ pizzawarszawska

desserts Croccante Resistance is futile: surrender to made-on-site cronut creations such as the Philadelphia (strawberry sauce, white chocolate and cheesecake cream) or the Tropicana (mango & passionfruit cream, a shiny mango coating and Malibu with coconut milk), before forever slipping into a pleasing food coma inside a smart interior of glinting gold colors and soft velvet fabrics. (E5) ul. Żurawia 1A

Kukułka A funky two-level space with monochrome floors, spirally stairs and little blasts of color set against the stark, minimalistic concrete finishes. Widely blogged about, the real reason for the general clamor soon becomes apparent: desserts that lift Warsaw into heavenly directions. Cream puffs are the specialty, but other winners include their brioches, raspberry tarts, blueberry crumbles and whipped cream meringue. ul. Mokotowska 52 Lokal Dela Krem That you can now buy vegan, mojito-flavored cupcakes in Warsaw is an indication of the city’s fanatical commitment to healthy living. A roaring success, the first vegan cake shop in the country has become a local staple. (D5) ul. Hoża 27A Miss Mellow Mixing sophisticated desserts with those that fall more on the filthy food porn side of thigs, Miss Mellow have hit the bull’s eye by offering something for everyone that enjoys the sweeter things in life.

Lauded even by Vogue, find a wicked rundown of toasts, brioches, financiers, brownies, cookies and cakes. Eschewing chemical nasties, it’s a place in which the owners’ commitment towards quality resonates throughout. (D5) ul. Wilcza 62 MOD Warsaw has always loved donuts, but it

Hungarian cuisine, modern interiors and a wine cellar in the very heart of Warsaw

ul. Zgoda 1, tel. 22 828 22 44, www.borpince.com, info@borpince.pl

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EAT! Listings took the arrival of MOD to elevate this humble doughy vice to new levels with a glam New York-inspired makeover. The mango topped donut is our favorite by miles. (D7) ul. Oleandrów 8 Muus Warsaw’s taste for luxury desserts has not waned, but Muus steps into new territory by offering something that feels modern yet also strangely homely.

Caramel brownies, blueberry meringue, cheesecake with yuzu jelly – the list goes on and makes more than fine reading.

At Muus, taste is not sacrificed for show.

What you get dances with the best. (E3) ul.

Tamka 22/24, fb.com/muuswarsaw Warszawski Lukier The home of hardcore food porn. Look for their signature freak shakes: towering treats cascading with calories and color.

Their sister op on Żurawia has more of the same… and ice cream! (E5) ul. Hoża 5/7

fine dining Atelier Amaro If Wojciech Amaro’s eponymous restaurant isn’t the most famous in the country, then it’s certainly the most important.

Awarded Poland’s first Michelin star in 2013, it’s a venue that continues to set the pace in terms of innovation. Changing weekly, his ‘calendar of nature’ seeks to present forgotten ingredients such as little-known berries, herbs and flowers against meats and other ingredients reared or grown at the Atelier farm. One for any bucket list, there are occasions when dining here can feel like an out-of-body experience. Abandoning their original home at the start of 2019, the new location feels a world class venue seemingly designed with a second star in mind. (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 10/14, atelieramaro.pl Amber Room at the Sobański Palace Set in the pre-war Pałac Sobańskich, this pristine manor house is everything you expect: hushed, lavish, cultured and classy. The food fits the backdrop with a contemporary menu often drawing spontaneous outbreaks of collective joy.

Maze-like in its layout, there’s enough nooks and secret rooms to make Amber

Room the ideal address for expense account meetings. (E6) Al. Ujazdowskie 13, amberroom.pl Belvedere Łazienki Królewskie Set in an imperial age glass orangery, it’s festooned with intricate latticework and botanical exotica. The updated interiors are the work of acclaimed set designer Boris Kudlicka, and lend a fresh, contemporary tone that goes hand in hand with the menu. But behind the gels and emulsions and pretty little swirls, this is cooking of substantial depth; it’s cooking that takes you to the very soul of Polish nature. (F6) ul. Agrykoli 1, belvedere.com.pl Chłodna 15 by Wilamowski Gone are the Alice in Wonderland decorations of the previous tenant, La Maison, replaced instead by a muted charcoal look that’s reassuringly refined – for the time you’re here, you forget you’re on the ground floor of a 70s tower block.

Aiding the amnesia is the classic French cooking of Arkadiusz Wilamowski: small and mercurial in its content, the dailychanging menu is a work of preposterous detail – no sauce takes less than a day to make. (B3) ul. Chłodna 15, choldna15.pl Europejski Grill The flagship restaurant of the Raffles Europejski has cut no corners in their bid to become one of the city’s top restaurants. A seriously swish interior of pearl white colors is teed-up against contemporary flashes (hexagonal lighting, outsized plates hanging from the wall) and gleaming silverware. Enjoying precisely composed dishes such as beetroot tartar or Dover Sole is a welltailored crowd that expects nothing but the best. (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, raffles.com/warsaw N31 Been there, done it all. That’s Robert Sowa, a national treasure widely hailed for modernizing Poland’s gastronomic sector back in the country’s culinary dark days. A common sight on TV, the chef’s public profile has meant there’s no shortage of bums on seats in his flagship restaurant, but this is more than a chef trading on his past. A chic city center bubble beloved by business types, the food is first class with Sowa’s international travels reflected by surprises warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings such as flawless tuna partnered with kabayaki sauce, yuzu, wasabi dressing and turnip salad. The flavor combinations are exceptional. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 31, n31restaurant.pl Nolita For many diners, there is no bigger night out than one that begins and ends in this enclave of class. Dashing in its monochrome colors and muted gunmetal shades, Nolita is where Warsaw heads to live the life of the 1%. Lacking the magic tricks of some, the ‘show factor’ might be subdued but the tastes definitely aren’t. Who to credit? Two words: Jacek Grochowina.

Cooking with poise and focus, his menu is a marriage of the classic and creative, with core ingredients given unexpected lifts with cunning turns and inspired little twists: maybe some yuzu with the tartare or konbu with the eel. (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, nolita.pl PamPam Large spaces, high ceilings, globe-shaped bulbs and plush rouge furnishings lend a sense of refinement to PamPam, a feeling that’s in line with a sophisticated menu that promises much with elegantly presented dishes such as sea bass with herbal curry sauce and

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oyster mushrooms. (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 9/11, pampam.com.pl Senses Diners are best advised to leave logic outside. Inspired by the idea of ‘note-bynote’ cooking, Italian-born chef Andrea Camastra isolates and extracts molecules from ingredients to obtain the purest flavors before matching them up with unlikely partners. What unfolds is a dazzling show of near illusory brilliance; the technical proficiency of the kitchen is exceptional and makes the steep prices easier to swallow. Wrap-up the evening with a pungent, edible cigar. (C2) ul.

Bielańska 12, sensesrestaurant.pl Signature Flirting with fine dining – yet at prices a notch below – the menu is a succession of highs that are a tribute to the sophisticated palate of chef Wojciech Kilian. Adding to the sense of being somewhere special is a setting inside the former inter-war Soviet Embassy. Adorned with original, auction-bought photos of Marilyn, pretty pink colors and luxury fittings, Signature washes over you in waves of bliss. (D5) ul.

Poznańska 15, signaturerestaurant.pl Szóstka Head to Floor 6 of the swank Hotel Warszawa. There lies Szóstka, a long, slick space decorated with steel tubing, bursts of greenery and a coved glass

ceiling. But it’s outside where everyone heads, to a sparsely furnished terrace with killer views of the city below. As for the food, drums please for Dariusz Barański, tipped by some as the next Pole headed for a Michelin star. (D4) Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9 (Hotel Warszawa), warszawa.hotel.com.pl

french L’Arc Looking elegant with its black/white floors and subtle decorations bills at L’Arc can become big number affairs – especially if you hanker for seafood. Pick from numerous types of oysters or delve into the fish tank for the lobster of your choosing. The catchment area extends beyond the borders of Mokotów, not just because of their ‘fresh from France’ seafood, but because of classic dishes such as Mulard duck and Burgundy snails. (E8) ul. Puławska 16, larc.pl Monsieur Leon Found resting on the corner of a quiet residential street, Monsieur Leon is surely one of Mokotów’s best kept secrets. Here, simplicity is the name of the game, with a brief blackboard menu that involves

EAT! Listings cheese boards, salads and a hefty croque monsieur. With wine tipping down and conversation wafting around this compact, casual space, it doesn’t take a giant leap of imagination to think yourself in France. Reopened after a sabbatical, Leon’s return is cause for celebration. (E8) ul. Sulkiewicza 5

georgian Chmeli Suneli The ‘modern-folk’ interior blends clean colors and exposed brickwork with slanted timber shelving and bright caricatures of Georgian gents: it looks just fab. Then there’s the food: served in clay pots and on thick, wooden boards, the nosh is wholehearted and ideal for early autumn and those long months ahead.

The experience peaks with the presentation of the grilled, skewered shashliks. ul.

Wilcza 26

Leo’s Marani Launched in July, Leo’s Marani mixes Georgian and Armenian flavors to present a menu that feels slightly more novel than the others: for example, refer to lamb chops marinated in coffee, cognac and pomegranate juice. Other success stories involve the Armenian-caught trout and huge shashlik sets for two. Not all reviews have been glowing, but there’s much to suggest that any inconsistencies stand to be ironed out over time. Early days yet, but most who visit end up promising to return. ul. Marszałkowska 85 Rusiko To the uninitiated, Georgian food is representative of the heart, spirit and passion of its people; it’s a cuisine that values the concept of the feast: wine, laughter and song find themselves elevated to roles of primary importance. A food of life, spice and whole-hearted tastes, consider Rusiko as the best ambassador there is for this surprisingly diverse

kitchen, and award-winning chef Davit Turkestanishvili the string-pulling master.

There’s nowhere else in Poland that does Georgian better. Al. Ujazdowskie 22

greek & turkish Mr. Greek Souvlaki Enticing with its cute, pocket-size dimensions, array of pot plants and navy blue colors, Mr. Greek bubbles with homespun warmth. The menu is a simple work but the quality is outstanding: pillowy pitas wrapped around freshly grilled chicken; skewers of pork; piping hot pots of moussaka; and delicious meatball-style dishes that are devoured within moments.

Warsaw has enjoyed good Greek food before, but now it can offer something even better. A place of authentic hospitality and fabulous food, that this is a labor of love is manifestly obvious from the moment one enters. ul. Londyńska 16

Le Cedre Lounge Grzybowska 5A Tel 22 299 7299

Le Cedre 84

(opposite the court) Al. Solidarności 84 Tel 22 618 8999

Le Cedre 61

(opposite the zoo, no outdoor patio) Al. Solidarności 61, Praga Tel 22 670 1166

www.lecedre.pl

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EAT! Listings Santorini Santorini looks scuffed and tired but there’s a bonhomie present that instantly engages. The kitchen attaches no value to things like presentation, preferring instead to simply treat diners to piles of grilled and skewered food that consistently tastes right – enjoying it is easy. ul. Egipska 7, kregliccy.pl/santorini

hungarian

Borpince Modernized versions of traditional Magyar cuisine come served in surrounds that feel even more familial given the 100-odd wines from the various regions of Hungary. (D4) ul. Zgoda 1, borpince.pl

indian

the country – we’ll visit soon. (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, bombajmasala.pl

Bollywood Lounge Known for their raucous dusk-till-dawn parties, there is another less hedonistic roll filled by Bollywood: that of a restaurant. The menu is an uncomplicated, classic affair that’s an ideal primer for the party ahead. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, bollywoodlounge.pl

Curry Leaf The post-industrial style is diluted by the number of Indian trinkets hanging off the vents and pipes. Owned by the same crew behind the lauded Curry House, you’d be completely correct to assume the same consistency and excellence. ul. Conrada 5, curryleaf.pl

Bombaj Masala Not just the best looking of Warsaw’s Indian restaurants, Bombaj Masala also has some of the best cooking. With so many restaurants reliant on one ‘master pot’ for their curry, this classy venue feels unique in delivering a variety of rich, intense tastes. The vindaloo is a special standout, with big, punchy flavors that leave you tingling long after you leave.

Committed fans should keep in mind their Praga outpost in the Koneser complex, reputed to serve the only ‘Indian tapas’ in

Guru Moving into the space vacated by the lamentable BrewDog pub, Guru joins the city’s (very) shortlist of higher end Indians.

The menu is a union of local, seasonal ingredients (organic this, farmyard that) and imported spices, coming together to blast the competition out of the water.

From the openers, the chili chicken fry

Jana Moliera 4/6 22 826 5958 moliera@sakana.pl www. sakana.pl

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EAT! Listings stands out as a dish that’s all snap and crackle, while of the mains the tikka masala is exceptional in taste. Plus points for Indian-themed cocktails that really hit the mark – easily one of our favorite openings of 2018. (D4) ul. Widok 8, gururestauracja.pl

Rasoi A cheerful neighborhood style prevails in Rasoi, a friendly restaurant whose positive vibe is expressed via a design that mixes white wooden furnishings against a positive outbreak of colorful cushions. The North Indian food has a habit of raising spirits with its bold spices and authentic style. (C5) ul. Chmielna 98, rasoi.pl Smak Curry There’s been a nationwide pandemic of average Indian restaurants, but despite the rather slim menu Smak Curry can’t

be included in that list of disappointments. On the contrary, what the menu lacks in size it compensates in taste: from big, walloping whacks of lavishly spiced pork Madras to sweet but subtle mango chicken, here’s a restaurant that feels it genuinely adds something extra to a saturated market. Complimented by bright, modern interiors and sunny, friendly wait staff, it’s a place that makes a blue day feel that extra bit better. (E8) ul.

Belwederska 44

international Ale Wino You could eat in Ale Wino a hundred times – and we know some people that have – and still never be bored. That alone says much for the consistency and creativity of a kitchen that has come to be admired as the source of some of the best cooking in the city. Regularly adjusted to utilize the

best items the season has to offer, chef Sebastian Wełpa’s menu is a triumph of expertly balanced tastes. Rounding out the experience is an intimate, labyrinthine design that’s ideal for when it’s cold and grim, and a shaded courtyard terrace that’s perfect for when it’s not. (F5) ul.

Mokotowska 48, alewino.pl Bibenda Preserving the prewar heritage of the building, the warm, busy interiors of Bibenda feel ripe for a pint: and yes, thanks to a rotating roster of craft beers, a good pint is what you can expect. Catching the ambience perfectly, the menu is an interesting work that specializes in spotting unlikely combinations that actually work: for instance, ‘cilantro funky pork sausages’ with pickled carrots, brussels sprouts and fried peanuts.(D5) ul.

Nowogrodzka 10, bibenda.pl Brasserie Warszawska Looking for classic cuisine with no daft

The Amber Room specializes in fine dining and modern European cuisine whilst also featuring Polish dishes. Famed for using the highest quality seasonal ingredients, producing its own pastries as well offering an exhaustive collection of unique wines, the restaurant was recognized in the 2019 edition of the Michelin Guide with four couverts.

Further, last year saw the restaurant receive Wine Spectator’s exclusive Award of Excellence and included in the La Liste rankings of the world’s best restaurants. Amber Room invites you to taste the latest autumn dishes prepared by chef Kamil Rzechowicz. Dishes include scallop with cauliflower and broccoli purée; cream of charred celery soup; saddle of venison with Jerusalem artichoke or a dark chocolate sphere for a dessert.

Carefully selected wines are guaranteed to enhance your culinary experience.

Al. Ujazdowskie 13 tel. +48 600 800 999 recepcja@amberroom.pl www.amber-room.pl

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EAT! Listings

FOOD HALLS Across Warsaw, everyone is eating together! Join the revolution at the following game changing venues…

Hala Gwardii Set within a charmingly distressed piece of Tsarist-era brickwork, it’s not just the depth of the offer that has kept crowd figures high, but the quality as well. Standouts in this food hall are too numerous to mention, but hat tips go towards the Gorilla coffee point; the meaty treats of Beef’n’Roll; the delicious dumplings at I Love Pierogi; and the English-style spuds served by Pieczone Ziemniaki. Last but not least, no-one in Poland scoops better ice cream than the team at Ice Pot. (C3) Pl. Mirowska 2, halagwardii.pl Hala Koszyki Nirvana for the aspirational classes, careful surgery has preserved the heritage of this early 20th century marketplace and juxtaposed it against the urban tapestry of modern Warsaw. Appealing to everyone from foodies and families to Instagram scenesters, its success has sparked a nationwide wave of doubles and duplicates. But despite their best efforts, none come close to feeling quite so global.

Walking around Koszyki, find all from Korean noodles, Spanish tapas, Mexican burritos, Greek kebabs and so much more. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63, koszyki.com Postępu 5 Christened Mordor by the despairing employees who head there each working day, the area around Domaniewska doesn’t have the best public image. though, there isn’t just hope, but also a solution to realign the spirit of this quarter.

Call it Postępu 5, a collection of street vendors housed in a line of former garages and storage units. Highlights inc. Blin (for Russian-style pancakes), Hotto Doggu (Japanese hot dogs), and Roger That Foods, a close quarters burger stop immediately identifiable by the monster smoker set outside. ul. Postępu 5, postepu5.pl

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flights of fancy? Here you have it. At a time when everyone wants to be Ferran Adrià, Brasserie has both a menu and interior that you can understand: panfried foie gras; elegant beef Rossini; and sinful apple tarte tatin, all served inside posh interiors of zinc-plated mirrors and chessboard floors. Their Michelin Bib Gourmand is a source of pride, but it’s the number of repeat clients that are the ultimate paean to the skills of the chef.

(E5) ul. Górnośląska 24, brasseriewarszawska.pl Bubbles Occupying a small, square room, it’s intimate and relaxed: a place busy with blackboards and bottles, crates and clutter. It radiates warmth and honesty.

The food is exquisite, and includes big, meaty snails farmed in Mazury, and their signature dish: Swiss-style raclette.

Presented on a wooden chopping board, this cheese dish is classic melty goodness, and served alongside a pile of potatoes, onions marinated with caramel and candied pumpkin. Considering the place doubles as a champagne bar the prices are remarkably moderate. (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, bubbles.com.pl Der Elefant This leviathan restaurant unravels in a maze of wrought iron and monochrome tiles – beautiful to look at (it was created

by Oscar-winning set designer Allan Starski), it’s caused a stir for more than just this alone. Where once the menu looked like it was devised by throwing darts at a cookbook, the focus has now been narrowed. While some of the dishes are strictly middling, the filet mignon (zł.

69) is one of the best meat deals in town in terms of quality / price / consistency.

(C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, derelefant.com Dyletanci Entered into the Michelin Guide for the first time in 2018, Dyletanci’s inclusion in the foodie’s bible was further evidence of the trajectory its taken in the three years it’s been open. The epitome of the neo-bistro style, find an attractive space that’s been seamlessly designed to feature a wine store, kitchen and dining room(s) that somehow feel organically joined. The atmosphere is lifted by faultless cooking that combines a little bit of Polish with a little bit of eclectic:

EAT! Listings it’s a combination that works and often magnificently well. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44A, dyletanci.pl First Floor Restaurant Chic, elegant touches combine with a fully open kitchen visible from practically all angle. Live music is an inseparable element of the First Floor experience, with blues, hazz and Latino performances scheduled every weekend. ul. Kasprzaka 31 (Varsovia Apartamenty), firstfloorrest.pl GarMasz Combining the functions of a store, butchery and, above all, a restaurant, GarMasz is the creation of Piotr Pielichowski, a cook best-known for his appearances on the Polish edition of Master Chef. A keen promoter of natural ingredients and fancy delicacies, his restaurant is stunning in every respect: three years in the making, even the interiors will blow you away. Designed

by Gdańsk-based architect Krystian Rassmus, details include oak finishes, 18th century tiling and swish chandeliers.

(E4) ul. Kopernika 5 Kieliszki Na Hożej Pristine in its whiteness, the corner tenement housing Kieliszki looks like a big wedge of wedding cake. Justly, the interiors are every bit as delicious with their glimmering glass and geometric patterns. All this though pales into insignificance on account of a menu that’s noted for its rich, strident tastes and loving presentation: on this juror’s visit, that meant suckling pig bathed in mustard home brew, and a walloping dessert of honey cake and plum jam.

Our experience was not some one-off: in an area thick with good restaurants, consider Kieliszki as one of the best. (D5) ul. Hoża 41, kieliszkinahozej.pl

against pierogi, steak and sharing plates. Yet despite the randomness of the choices and the curious location, there’s something here that really strikes the right note. Expect tastes that work inside a informal, casual space that’s fast taking off as a local secret. (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 45A

Loft Color, that’s what Loft has. It’s everywhere – from the design, which is all bubble shaped lights and splashy, bright cushions, to the drinks: extravagant cocktails that possibly glow in the dark. The menu is full of playful experimentation, something reflected by a seasonal menu that has, in the past, presented such choices as chicken with strawberries. (D4) ul. Złota 11, restauracjaloft.pl MOD BEST WAWA 2018“Casual Dining” An incubator for the unorthodox, this cool and kooky venture pushes the envelope when it comes to being different. Devised

by Trisno Hamid, a Singaporean chef with a classic French background, glories include ramen noodles in a steamy yuzu broth and Angus beef rump steak served with tahini mashed potatoes and a big thump of chili and fig relish. Adding to

the sense of being somewhere current, find a seriously cool vibe inside an interior featuring a retro mirrored wall, upside down plants and busy tables filled with the kind of people that you’d mistake for rising fashion photographers and contributors to Vice. (D6) ul. Oleandrów 8, fb.com/MODOleandrow8 Mokotowska 69 Set inside a rotunda at the tail end of the street, it’s a place that exudes elegance and class. Most of all, however, it’s a restaurant to be enjoyed. Brought to you by the same team credited for Merliniego 5, Mokotowska’s appreciation of steak has been lifted from their elder sister.

Yet the virtues of this restaurant extend beyond steak alone: on our last visit, the Insider enjoyed a volley of greats – creamy breaded calf brains, sophisticated smoked eel, and Mazurian crayfish served in a deep, joyous sauce of rowan berry and brandy. (E5) ul. Mokotowska 69, mokotowska69.com Momu Dominated by meat that’s cooked using the only smoker of its kind in Poland, the menu is comforting and strangely familiar: these are flavors reminiscent of campfire nights – brawny, smoky tastes with towering Reuben sandwiches, juicy steaks, bone marrow and wooden slabs brimming with meats from MOMU’s smokehouse. Impromptu art, tweeting

Kromki Better known for kebab stores and booze outlets, this section of JPII does at times chuck up the occasional surprise: Kromki, for one.

The menu is a Jack-of-all-trades, with pizza and burgers rubbing shoulders

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EAT! Listings birds and a neo-industrial design add oomph to the busy ambiance. (C2) ul.

Wierzbowa 11, momu.pl

waves for its clever international menu and cool, casual vibe. Full report soon. (E3) ul. Zajęcza 2B, niewinniczarodzieje2.pl

Niewinni Czarodzieje 2.0 Kuba Wojewódzki, a.k.a. Poland’s biggest media celeb, has caused tremors by joining forces with restaurateur Józef Krawczyk (Warszawski Sznyt) to unleash a cool, post-industrial venue that strives to be one third club and two thirds restaurant. Swank and arty but also surprisingly affordable, it’s already made

Opasły Tom The ground floor – all swanky lighting and navy blue seating – is often packed, so it’s downstairs you may head to an intimate space more reminiscent of the original location formerly found on Foksal: here, it’s about muted colors and reassuring shadow. Characterized by its balanced, nuanced flavors and thoughtful

combinations, the first menu to debut at this relaunched restaurant sees a medley of dishes you demand to eat again: pumpkin and curd dumplings served in a cheese sauce being the prime example.

(D2) ul. Wierzbowa 9 Projekt 44 Warsaw’s credentials as a global city look all the stronger for places like Projekt 44, a chic-casual spot rooted at the bottom of Daniel Liebeskind’s landmark Złota 44 tower. Heavy on raw materials and moodily-adjusted lighting, the background goes well with a rounded menu offering a 360 view of international cuisine: vegan poke bowls; rib-eye steaks; and cocktails divided by the way they’re served with ice (that is, with a block of ice, ice cubes, crushed ice or nitro). People are excited, and deservedly so. ul. Złota 44 Restauracja Warszawska BEST WAWA 2018 “Newcomer” Humongous in size, the vast spaces and lack of natural light never feel an issue.

Loaded with slick finishes and polished raw materials, find this subterranean venue unraveling amid the giant original foundations that support this pre-war skyscraper. Divided into ‘snacks’, ‘plates’, ‘sides’ and ‘desserts’, big shouts go to a golden schnitzel the size of a tricycle wheel as well as the spicy pork dumplings served in a vibrant essence of paprika. It’s not a big menu, but it doesn’t need to be: exceptional in every respect, this restaurant has become one of foodie Warsaw’s biggest talking points.

(D4) Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9 (Hotel Warszawa), warszawa.hotel.com.pl

Plac Inwalidów 10 | tel. 22 322 82 28 | www.trattoriarucola.pl fb.com/TrattoriaRucola | Insta.com/TrattoriaRucolaWarszawa

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Rozbrat 20 BEST WAWA 2018 “Neo-Bistro” This busy neo-bistro fuses upmarket, casual styling with an exciting wine list, interactive service and the kind of atmosphere you can’t get enough of.

Under chef Bartosz Szymczak’s leadership, Rozbrat’s grown to become one of the blogospheres favorite write-ups.

Never the same, if there’s a consistent thread to visits then it’s the playful inventiveness that has come to define Szymczak’s cooking. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 20, rozbrat20.com.pl Sphinx One of Poland’s best-known and most

EAT! Listings popular restaurant chains touches down on Krucza to offer their tried and tested formula of steaks and Middle Easterninspired dishes. (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, sphinx.pl Stixx Wola: what was once a sad, dusty wasteland has blossomed to become the business district of tomorrow. Nowhere symbolizes this evolution as much as Europejski square with its glittering towers and fancy water features. Looking onto all that is Stixx, a smart, spacious hangout that’s as slick and international as the guests that visit. A well-oiled operation, its diverse menu, professional staff and consistent quality control mark it out as ideal for sealing the deal. (A4) Pl. Europejski 4A, stixx.pl Supperlardo Run as a side project by Mąka i Woda (quite literally – it’s right next door), it’s a stylish-looking spot that’s fresh,

contemporary and even a little edgy: for evidence, refer to a mural designed by Swansky, a local big gun on the street art scene. As for the menu, that’s a riotously meaty romp that involves wood-fired hams, sandwiches composed of pork belly pastrami and salt-cured meats from Puławska and Mangalica pigs. With orders taken at the counter, it’s a place that lifts the canteen concept to new, unseen heights. (D4) ul. Chmielna 13A, fb.com/Supperlardo White One Looking impressive from the off, it’s a place of stylish fittings, glinting surfaces and big splashes of contemporary art. Straight away, you feel you’re somewhere that’s serious about itself.

So it proves. Hotly tipped for big things in the future, chef Paweł Chomentowski has constructed a menu that’s cogent, compelling and not short on twists: the kind of dish you want to take home on a dark, lonely night, the Insider was

knocked bandy by beef cheeks slicked in a chocolate / coffee sauce. It’s the dailychanging tasting menu, however, that really allows Chomentowski to flaunt his talent and fan his feathers. One to watch.

(D6) ul. Koszykowa 47, whiteone.pl Zoni BEST WAWA 2018 “Modern Polish” Located in a former Tsarist era vodka distillery, the interior revels in cast iron kilns, flooring produced from 19th century vodka barrels, long shadows and industrial bits and pieces that have been lovingly restored. Sprawling, historic and not short on statement, it’s an address to impress. Incoming chef Michał Gniadek has already earned a name as a star of tomorrow and his menu is a committed foray into what he terms as “seasonal international cuisine with a Polish twist”.

Think BBQ pork ribs that land with a thwunk, Agnolotti pasta expertly folded over Oscypek cheese and tuna served tataki-style. (G1) Pl. Konesera 1, zoni.today

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EAT! Listings italian

‘Simplicity, elegance and atmosphere’

Cafe • Wine Bar • Restaurant • Whisky Bar • Wine Cellar ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 515 037 001 www.hoza.warszawa.pl www.facebook.com/hoza25 Open 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-21:00

Altro Locale Set in a quiet section of Old Mokotów, it’s little wonder the plaudits haven’t ceased. Owned by chef Andrea Carillo, authentic, homespun tastes vie for attention inside a charming space that’s chic and modern but never spartan. You can tell Carillo has invested his heart and soul in this venture, and the result is an ever-changing menu featuring lamb chops, sirloin, and sea bream done the Italian way – don’t think you’ll be getting any pizza here! Fittingly, its reputation is now extending beyond the district’s natural border. (E8) ul. Willowa 9 Ave Pizza The argument over who serves Warsaw’s best pizza goes right to the wire, but there’s no doubting that Ave Pizza are up there on the leaderboard.

Set across a sparse, metropolitan area, this fashionable L-shaped joint comes endorsed by the capital’s notoriously picky Italian community. Order the pillowy calzone and you’ll soon learn why.

(E3) ul. Topiel 12, avepizza.pl Dziurka od Klucza An enchanting locale in which enigmatic, lavender-painted doors sit embedded into the walls, as if waiting to be magically opened by the mysterious keys that hang from the numerous interior details. Set with empty picture frames and cotton ball lights, interiors just don’t get any cuter. As for food, the concise, daily-changing menu is centered around homemade pasta – pride of place is given to the black colored pasta served with seafood. (E3) ul. Radna 13, dziurkaodklucza.com.pl Focaccia The big surprise at Focaccia is that there’s no Italian in the kitchen – it appears they don’t need one. Looking splendid in its crystal white colors, this dining room has plaudits aplenty for its selection of pizzas and more sophisticated mains: order the duck breast with marsala sauce for a failsafe choice. (D2) ul. Senatorska 13/15, focaccia.pl Mąka i Woda Purists applaud an approach that uses

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a custom-made oven from Naples and imported ingredients such as 00 Caputo flour and DOP certified San Marzano tomatoes. Scrupulously authentic, it’s no wonder that it’s packed to the gunnels every night of the week – even their Facebook page warns of 20-minute waiting times for a table alone. (D4) ul.

Chmielna 13A Prosciutteria Powiśle Buzzing with warmth, here an interior composed of pre-war floor tiles, exposed brickwork, and black and white images of Italian icons sets a casually good mood that’s sustained by the owners. They’re knowledgeable, as well. If Prosciutteria feels good, then it tastes even better.

Based around cold cuts, find heavy wooden boards loaded with imported delicacies from small producers that the couple have befriended: Ubriaco cheese bathed in Prosecco; pork belly fat dry-cured for six months; salami from Milan and Naples… There’s more, of course, but it all becomes one in this orgy of pleasure. (F4) ul. Solec 85 Trattoria Rucola The secret at this chain enterprise?

Despite a cut & paste interior (white tables against forest-themed wallpaper) the underlying and consistent quality has you thinking you’re dining somewhere unique. Find a vast selection of pizzas and other Italian standards cooked to a level that never falls below high. ul.

Francuska 6, Krucza 6/14, Miodowa 1, Klimczaka 1 & Inwalidów 10, trattoriarucola.pl

japanese Arigator This Japanese-style noodle joint whisks you to the narrow, steamy back alleys of late night Tokyo. Clad in corrugated iron and dark, weathered wooden slats, it’s got that buzzing sense of chaos that feels familiar from the films. And the food, gosh, they get that right as well.

From a tiny menu order up dainty pork dumplings, braised kakuni bacon or deep-fried tofu before hitting up a feisty bowl of ramen emanating life-affirming goodness. A complex tangle of interlacing flavors, it’s the sort of dish you’d happily

EAT! Listings queue up for: and yes, people do. (D6) ul.

Piękna 54 Mizu Irresistible, immaculate and imaginative, Mizu’s sushi sets a benchmark that Warsaw’s other Japanese joints can only aspire to. The off-center location adds to the impression of dining somewhere that only those in the loop know about. ul.

Duchnicka 3, mizusushi.pl Sakana Sushi & Sticks It’s not uncommon to hear the preparation of sushi described as a form of art, and in Sakana that’s exactly what it is.

Using premium ingredients and unusual combinations, their creations are a vivid blast of color and freshness. (D2) ul.

Moliera 4/6, sakana.pl Sato Gotuje Signposted by its own splash of Manga-style art adorning the exterior wall, this Commie era pavilion feels small and squashed and assembled on a budget. Who cares? No-one. An exciting departure from the norm – no sushi here – the menu is a selection of bitey Japanese street food such as grilled mackerel fillet with shavings of grated radish. ul. Pawińskiego 24 Shoku Most places that claim to serve fusion do so because of an identity crisis. At Shoku, though, the mix and match approach when it comes to Asia (if it’s tasty, stick it on the menu!) feels rational and put together. Never short of custom, locals gather inside a bright, contemporary space to slurp down bowls of ramen, share shoku bowls or click chopsticks over small plates of dim sum and wonton. (A4) ul. Karolkowa 30, shoku.pl

experience in Wabu with the evening passing in a blur of beautiful compositions, of silky slithers of fish crowned with expert pinches of this, and little brush strokes of that. That’s all elevated even further by deliciously upscale interiors befitting of the Spire location. (A4) Pl. Europejski 2 (Warsaw Spire), wabu.pl Yatta Originally born from a food truck, Yatta’s stationary address is everything you want: scruffy, frayed and busy, and the living embodiment of the street food vibe. The ideal outlet for their concept, step inside a rackety interior to join other hip creatures Instagramming the only jiro ramen to be found in Warsaw.

Once you’re done doing that, kick back to slurp over big, steamy bowl of spicy miso ramen. (E3) Bartoszewicza 3, fb.com/ YattaBowl

jewish Mazal Tov Operated by the same group behind Momu and Aioli, their experience in pleasing the masses is mirrored by Mazal Tov, a restaurant whose menu is inspired by Ashkenazi cuisine. The tastes have an addictive street food style, while the courtyard garden is a shaded refuge from the Old Town hubbub.

(D1) ul. Podwale 29, mazaltov.pl

korean The Cool Cat Casual and convivial and absent of aloofness, it’s a place in which all life seems to gather for a taste of good times. Refusing to take themselves too seriously, the angle is fun and forwardthinking, something that’s evidenced by way of an occasionally wacky menu of Americanized Asian food: the K-Fries (a big messy mass of kimchi, chips, bulgogi beef) are spot on. (F4) ul. Solec 38 (also on Marszałkowska 8) Koreanka A courtyard cubbyhole that’s scuffed, informal and fashionably ramshackle.

Such has been the stir created by it, diners arrive in the knowledge that they’ll be scavenging a table and eating what little might be left over from another sell-out day. Yet here’s the point of contention: is it really all that’s cracked up? The kimchi is exemplary, but not everything works so well. Though raved about by Warsaw’s Instagrammers, we were left disenchanted by the shallow, empty tastes of the bulgogi. (D6) ul.

Koszykowa 59 KoreaTown Rest Here, the ubiquitous KFC (Korean fried chicken) is all crunch and crackle and the bulgogi tender, juicy and the right side of

Uki Uki How much do the locals appreciate Warsaw’s original udon bar? Enough to queue outside the door? That’s right.

Dining is a close quarters experience here, but is done so without complaint: that electric pasta maker turns out noodles of such chewy goodness that everyone leaves beaming. (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, ukiuki.pl Wabu Sushi becomes a heaven’s gate spiritual

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EAT! Listings sweet; accompanying them, an assortment of bitey dishes heaving with chilli flecked kimchi, daikon radish and pickled bits and bobs. All very good, but nothing compared to the bossam, braised pork belly scooped up by hand inside glistening perilla leaves: it’s a dish that soothes, gratifies and leaves diners looking every bit as pleased as the pipe-smoking tiger that gazes from the wall. (E9) ul. Olesińska 2 Sora Korean food is big news in Warsaw, though increasingly it’s the Americanized K-food style you’ll find. Sora returns to the roots with tabletop BBQs, lively spices and lashings of Makkoli wine. The number of Korean guests is an endorsement in itself.

(A4) ul. Wronia 45 Yache Korea Though primarily known as the capital of Warsaw’s craft beer scene, Nowogrodzka is beginning to demonstrate that she’s more than just a one-trick pony.

Helping the food angle is this newbie, a steamy little venue that’s all clatter and commotion. Design barely goes beyond a wall of potted plants, but with a place of this size all you need is four people and presto, you’ve got an atmosphere.

On the food front, the crispy chicken embraces the seoul (ha!) like comfort food at its best, and the bulgogi the best we had last year – not bad going seeing there’s not a Korean in the kitchen. (D5) ul.

Nowogrodzka 25

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latin & spanish Casa Pablo “We give Spanish food a new twist,” declares chef Gonzalo de Salas, which explains why, in between pungent cheeses and acorn-fed Bellota ham, we find ourselves demolishing a variety of dishes that buck all notions of tradition: as a starter the beetroot-marinated salmon served with wasabi emulsion is a fine example of this. With de Salas performing balletic tricks in the kitchen, Casa Pablo presents a masterful menu that ripples with adventure. (C3) ul.

Grzybowska 5A, casapablo.pl

Ceviche Bar BEST WAWA 2018 “Ethnic Dining” With chef Martin Gimenez Castro injecting his passion and personality into the venue, this is an address that punches through the greyness of everyday Warsaw. Ceviche – raw fish marinated in citrus juices and cilantro – is the default order, with the Atun one of the best sellers: chunks of tuna given a rich zing with the addition of chili, lime and roasted coriander. The Japanese influence on South America’s dining habits isn’t forgotten either, with must-haves including the the salmon tiraditos: served

with teriyaki and sweet potato mash, it’s a joy of satisfying sensations: sweet, dreamy, spicy, creamy. (C4) ul. Twarda 4, cevichebar.pl

mexican El Popo Age hasn’t wearied El Popo one iota. Old it might be, but that hasn’t been to the detriment of the atmosphere. A place of happiness, the full color of the Mexican kitchen is brought to life via the full-fisted flavors of chef Angel Aceves. (C2) ul.

Senatorska 27 Gringo Bar Cooked and folded by fist bumping lads in back-to-front caps and baggy t-shirts, the food at Gringo is fiery, fresh and full of zing. There are detractors who claim this is a Polonized version of this cuisine, but the informal Gringo remains one of the market leaders. (E9) ul. Odolańska 15 La Sirena You don’t even have to think twice when asked to name the best Mexican in the capital. Inspired by the ultra-violent films of Danny Trejo, the hardcore interior heaves with machetes, holy shrines, skulls and wire mesh; but if La Sirena looks fab, it tastes even better. Introducing a new dimension to Warsaw’s

EAT! Listings parched Mexican landscape, highlights inc. poblano peppers stuffed with pork/ beef, peach, apple and apricots, as well as a ‘near death’ salsa that’s finally living up to its name. (D5) ul. Piękna 54

middle eastern Dar Mounia Moroccan food finds itself lifted to new levels at Dar Mounia, a beautiful space that strikes a careful balance between the refined and the exotic: decorative floor tiles, cascading greenery and gold fixtures deliver a look that feels deliciously alluring and full of subtle promise.

The food befits the backdrop, with a menu that presents authentic dishes assembled with a delicate, sophisticated hand. (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, darmounia.pl Kumin One of the big hits of 2018 is back open, this time in new digs on Gagarina. Casual and easy on the eye, features of the new address include a woodsy outdoor terrace and a laidback vibe set to a permanent state of chill. The food? Wow. Few places do a better job of replicating the aromatic taste of Middle Eastern lamb. (F8) ul.

Gagarina 33

Le Cedre With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoalgrilled lamb chops. (E1) Al. Solidarności 61, lecedre.pl

Le Cedre 84 Le Cedre just keep on getting it right.

Authenticity is key in this chainlette (well, there’s another two to pick from), as you’ll discover when talking to Tony,

the Lebanese owner. To see the diversity of this cuisine, order the balbaak (six cold starters) or the byblos (six hot).

And food aside, it’s the atmosphere that carries them that extra yard: the whole philosophy of this cuisine is to share and share alike, making it a uniquely engaging experience when dining with friends. (B3) Al. Solidarności 84, lecedre.pl

Le Cedre Lounge Furnished in voluptuous Middle Eastern style, the latest subsidiary of the Le Cedre empire bursts with fancy sheesha pipes, extravagant rugs and shimmery satin drapes. It’s a look that’s fun, familiar, intimate and warm. Less encyclopedic than that of its two sister ventures, Le Cedre Lounge has a slimmer menu that introduces several new tastes to fans of Lebanese cuisine. Helplessly more-ish, it’s food that’s in line with the vibey atmosphere and casual air. (C4) ul.

Grzybowska 5A, lecedre.pl

MODERN TAKE ON JAPANESE CUISINE

Maghreb Maghreb is a place to call home – a warm, familiar restaurant whose bijou interior falls on the good side of casual. The sense of natural goodness is emphasized by the add-ons that start landing on the table: a creamy baba ganoush with a gently smoky taste; zingy tabbouleh salad that screams with perky freshness; and an addictive mechouia dip made with roasted peppers and tomatoes. But these are a precursor for mains such as tajine dishes defined by their big-hearted richness – in this, the beef is the king, with a deep velvet sauce of honey and ginger and knuckle-sized prunes. ul. Burakowska 9, maghreb.pl Tahina There’s so much to love about Tahina that it’s hard to know where to begin: eventually, though, thoughts will inevitably turn to Warsaw’s best wrap. Contained within a featherlight lavash, the 36-hour slowcooked beef all but melts in the mouth.

One bite and you’ve found heaven. In a

OPEN EVERY DAY 12:00-23:00 GROUND FLOOR WARSAW SPIRE, PLAC EUROPEJSKI 2 +48 668 925 959 WABU@WABU.PL | WWW.WABU.PL WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/WABUSUSHI

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EAT! Listings city where eating Middle Eastern cuisine still has the feeling of a high risk game of roulette, Tahina hits the jackpot. Look out for look out for Iraqi-style scrambled eggs with dates, not to mention generous tahini bowls cascading with juicy chunks of chicken, and traditional coffee heated in a pan of sand. (C5) ul. Wilcza 26, fb.com/ TahinaWilcza

and immaculate linen) but never stuffy, Delicja have a modern Polish menu that includes sous-vide salmon marinated in beetroot leaves, then topped with horseradish foam and dill emulsion. Brilliant.

But then so was everything else we tried, including the exquisite seasoned roast beef. (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 64, delicjapolska.pl

polish

Dom Polski Almost like it was designed for the manor born, Dom Polski has the rarefied atmosphere of a country retreat: bow-tied staff who click their heels, decorative antiques and a menu that’s a sumptuous anthology of posh Polish cooking. When you need to give visitors a sense of classic Warsaw, Dom Polski is the first out of the hat. (H4) ul. Francuska 11, restauracjadompolski.pl

Bez Gwiazdek BEST WAWA 2018 “Best Chef” BEST WAWA 2018“Tasting Menu” While Bez Gwiazdek rejects the core principles of fine dining, don’t for one minute expect anything less than food that whispers refined sophistication.

Focusing each month on a different region of the country, Robert Trzópek’s tasting menu takes diners to the very heart of the Polish soul and does so via tastes that betray his fine dining background: delicate and precise, it’s the polar opposite of the standard Polski feast. Just when you thought you had worked out the nation’s cuisine, along comes Robert Trzópek to rewrite the rules. (E3) ul. Wiślana 8 Ćma by Mateusz Gessler Open round-the-clock, Ćma has rescued the city’s night owls from the evil clutches of the center’s grisly kebab dens. Set against an edgy, moth-themed interior designed by guerilla artist Tomasz Górnicki, this on-trend nightspot elevates late night dining to new heights with a menu that involves modernized Polish delicacies such as sausage with horseradish emulsion, black pudding with apple and… goose stomachs. (D6) ul.

Koszykowa 63, mateuszgessler.com.pl Czerwony Wieprz An amusing restaurant that looks back at communism through a rose-tinted lens.

Under the glowering gaze of commie tyrants, staff dressed like obedient members of the party’s Youth League deliver hefty dishes from a cheeky menu that is in itself a collector’s item. (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, czerwonywieprz.pl Delicja Polska Looking stately (pink bows, gilt touches

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Dom Polski Belwederska Accessed via curling pathways and bursting shrubs this restaurant conjures images of an aristocrat’s manor. The air of privilege matches a menu that’s rich in fanciful classics such as their signature goose. Elegant and exquisite, consider it your default choice for a taste of true Poland. (F8) ul. Belwederska 18A, restauracjadompolski.pl Elixir by Dom Wódki There are some who call the food here ‘deconstructed Polish’. In actuality, 'reconstructed' would be closer to the mark. The chef has taken local classics and redrafted the recipes with the swoosh of a contemporary pen. The outcome is a pleasure from start to finish: a life affirming żurek, a tartar that could fulfill ambassadorial duties for Poland, and a handsome beef tenderloin sprinkled with crispy potato shavings.

Thoughtful pairings with lesser-known, boutique vodkas add another dimension that serves to complete this pleasing, patriotic adventure. (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl Folk Gospoda If you missed the last train to Zakopane, then a night in Folk Gospoda is the next best thing. Kitted out like a typical tavern in the Tatras, it’s a good-humored celebration of mountain-slope traditions: heaps of meat and lard with plenty of vodka and song in between. (B3) ul. Waliców 13, folkgospoda.pl

Kieliszki na Próżnej You’ll find Kieliszki na Próżnej, the latest restaurant to mark the rehabilitation of Próżna, so named after the 1,116 wineglasses that hang tantalizingly over the bar. As an anchor feature the suspended glassware is arresting and equaled only by a long stretch of wall art doodled by Mariusz Tarkawian. The food matches up to the interiors, with a modern Polish menu that – on our visit – involved a thick, brilliantly spreadable foie gras pate, a thick slab of brawn and a delicate piece of moist Baltic cod. It’s pure seasonal comfort. (C3) ul. Próżna 12, kieliszkinaproznej.pl Le’pię In a restaurant that feels pure and feminine with its pristine tilework, gold cutlery and pastel pink finishes, the dumpling is given a remarkable, artisanal makeover.

Handmade with love, find unlikely fillings such as pear and peach complimented by a pour of honey-ginger syrup, or black pudding squashed in with cranberry and crispy shallots. It’s all quite brilliant, in fact, brilliant enough to feature in a BBC travel segment aired over Christmas. (E3) ul. Topiel 12 Polana Smaków Compact and woodsy, Polana Smaków has lost none of its copious charm since trading a no-man’s land location for city center Warsaw. Few chefs do a better job than Andrzej Polan when it comes to making herring sexy, with his interpretation arriving with a homemade bagel and blobs of orange pumpkin. Desserts are a sin and have, in the past, included a boozy donut soaked in punch and puffed to extreme with a blast of vanilla cream.

It’s sophisticated yet reassuringly simple.

(C5) ul. E. Plater 14, polanasmakow.pl Restauracja Polska “Różana” The rarified atmosphere of Różana is a pleasure indeed. Close to the frontline of Mokotów / Śródmieście, you’d never guess the proximity of the center. Seated in their garden, one feels removed from the city – a fountain burbles quietly in the background, starlings hop around the trees. From the inside, one hears the distant tinkle of the house pianist. Just being here is a thrill in itself, and the food is a Polish dining extravaganza served from the top table: farmhouse duck,

EAT! Listings saddle of venison, etc. (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, restauracjarozana.com.pl Stary Dom A classic restaurant in style and history: back in the day it was a favorite haunt of jockeys and race goers from the horse track nearby. Pre-war recipes form the basis of the menu, with the team using seasonal produce and the latest technology to bring out its best. ul. Puławska 104/106, restauracjastarydom.pl

Świętoszek Tartuffe This vaulted brick cellar has an elegant chic look that’s rare for the area. The menu refines traditional Polish tastes to present good-looking dishes made from regional ingredients. For full review, see p.

38. ul. Jezuicka 6/8, swietoszek.pl Talerzyki It sounds a little absurd, but Talerzyki manage the implausible by Polonizing the concept of tapas and coming up trumps. Fiercely Polish in spirit, the menu looks to revive the essence of inter-war Warsaw with its selection of classic recipes presented in scaled-down form: blood pudding with apple and cinnamon; beef tongue and horseradish; and white sausage with fermented flour sauce. It sounds glum and gory but its anything but – and the style mavens of Mokotowska appear to agree. (D6) ul. Mokotowska 33/35 The Farm The clue’s in the name. Preaching a message of farm-to-fork, this Mokotowska eatery takes its produce seriously – to the extent they have their own farm in the lake district to the north. Subject to frequent change, menu items include Porcini terrine, apple-fed pork with smoked plum, or Mazurian trout with smoked caviar.

You want to order it all. Supporting the strength of the cooking is an interior that feels comfortable, classic and high on natural charm. (D6) ul. Mokotowska 8 Wuwu Concrete finishes, illuminated tubes of light, glass block walls and graphic illustrations lend a slick smartness to this

narrow, bluish space. Busy with start-up entrepreneurs and off-duty business bods, they’re here to enjoy the food of one of Poland’s big gastronomic hopes: self-taught Adriana Marczewska. Her twin aims are to connect her food to vodka and to reintroduce the public to the forgotten classics of inter-war Warsaw. With items like duck tongues on the menu, and a shared address with the Vodka Museum, these are ambitions that are realized. Pl. Konesera 1 (Centrum Praskie Koneser), wuwu.bar

Zapiecek Seven Warsaw locales, with our favorite found in the vaulted passages of Świętojańska. The menu is highly traditional, with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’. It’s for the pierogi though for which they’re famous; find approx. fifty types delivered by servers dressed like saucy country maids. Locations inc. ul. Nowy Świat 64, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska 13 & ul.

Wańkowicza 1, zapiecek.eu Zielony Niedźwiedź A sanctuary of elegant fancy, it’s a place of long, dark shadows and discreet decorative touches: From the outset, you’re made to feel that good things will happen, and this they do. Certified by Poland’s

fledgling slow food movement, the menu gives star billing to the suppliers that keep the pantry full; but the truth is these aren’t the only heroes. Taking the reins in June, new chef Oliwia Bernady has grown in stature and skill preparing a daily tinkered menu that opens your eyes to the real tastes of Poland. (E4) ul. Smolna 4

scandinavian Nabo Open-faced Smørrebrød sandwiches are a specialty with toppings including ribbons of herring with curry egg paste and a flurry of greens, but Nabo also extends to cover other aspects of the new Nordic style: the fish goulash is recommended. ul. Zakręt 8, nabocafe.pl

seafood L’Arc Plucked alive and kicking from a burbling fish tank, L’Arc’s lobsters and crabs are among the best in the biz. Known for their obsessive devotion to seafood, other choices in this elegant, monochrome venue include six kinds of oysters and a bouillabaisse to blow your mind. (E8) ul. Puławska 16, larc.pl

A MODERN BISTRO IN WARSAW'S MURANÓW Jana Pawła II 45a, lok. 38, Tel: 666 043 043 kromkibistro.pl fb.com/kromkibistro warsawinsider.pl

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Traditional Polish Cuisine,

Ĺťurek

(traditional sour rye soup)

Golonka

(roast pork knuckle)

Placki Ziemniaczane

(potato pancake with gulash)

We serve Polish dishes on hot pans and sizzling cast iron and are winners of many culinary competitions Hand making our own pierogi since 1913 Pierogi z owocami Fruit dumplings

but don’t miss the pierogi OUR LOCATIONS IN WARSAW U L . K R A KO W S K I E P R Z E D M I E Ś C I E 5 5 | T E L . 2 2 6 9 2 7 2 0 4 U L . N O W Y Ś W I AT 6 4 | T E L . 2 2 6 9 2 4 1 3 5 AL. JEROZOLIMSKIE 28 | TEL. 22 826 7484 U L . F R E TA 1 | T E L . 2 2 8 3 1 6 1 9 0 UL. ŚWIĘTOJAŃSKA 13 | TEL. 22 635 6109 U L . F R E TA 1 8 | T E L . 2 2 6 3 5 7 9 5 9

EAT! Listings steak houses

soft, rich black pudding heaped on a squidgy brioches; and a lean, tender hangar steak crusted with the perfect amount of char. (F6)

ul. Rozbrat 8 Beef n’ Pepper Beef N’ Pepper presents itself in a buzzy urban flash of violet blue lighting, slick banquette seating and open kitchen action. Straight away, you get the feeling of being in a place that’s alive and active, a feeling that’s affirmed by a busy backlit bar from behind which blackshirted staff fling sunny cocktails for the after-work crowd. Of course, it’s the food angle that takes precedence, and at Beef N’ Pepper that translates to a decent choice of surf’n’turf. Highlights include thumping T-bones and a 60-day aged Argentinean top loin. (C5) ul. Nowogrodzka 47A, beefandpepper.pl BykBar BykBar presents itself in a style that typifies the ‘Warsaw casual’ look: behind a glass frontage find subway tiles in abundance, a black and white color code and the requisite neon announcing their name. And if the name and logo weren’t enough, then the menu confirms it: meat rules. More than a standard burger bar, shout outs go to glistening marrow served in thwunks of roasted bone;

Butchery & Wine When Butchery opened in 2011 it completely transformed the way Poland viewed its steak. The first ‘new wave’ meat joint in the country, it’s launch lit the fuse for a steak revolution. Now an institution in its own right, this cosmopolitan spot remains one of the most sought out bookings in the capital – bookings are advised. (D5) ul. Żurawia 22 Ed Red Warszawa You can tell they’re serious about their meat just by looking at the starters: big, juicy marrow bones, mountain oysters, blood sausage and calf’s brain. The steaks are the calling card though, and here you’ll find them dry aged and consumed with the aid of hunting knives. The desserts seem a lumpy afterthought, but they get enough right elsewhere (even decent craft beer at the bar) to keep that little more than a mild annoyance. (B3) Pl. Mirowski 1, edred.pl Hoża Wine and steak: it sounds simple, but Hoża have taken two simple pleasures to another level. It’s an ebullient space with service right out of charm school, and a kitchen team with a real knowledge of

cows. A red-blooded affair, the menu is a steak sensation and well paired with a handpicked wine list. (D5) ul. Hoża 25A, hoza.warszawa.pl Koneser Grill From the makers of Butchery & Wine (plus Rozbrat 20 and the Kieliszki restaurants) comes a new project inside the historic walls of the one-time Koneser vodka factory. Placing the element of ‘fire’ at the heart of their concept, the menu is a full-blooded foray into carnivorous worlds. Full report soon. (G1) ul.

Ząbkowska 29, konesergrill.pl Merliniego The steaks are out-of-this world, with USDA prime beef from New York’s legendary Ottomanelli & Sons and Scottish beef from London’s Smithfield Market.

On our last visit we splurged on the Grade 9+ wagyu ‘kobe’ rib-eye and found ourselves eating the steak of a lifetime.

Simply amazing. (E10) ul. Merliniego 5, merliniego.pl Mięsny What’s not to like about a butcher, deli and bistro all rolled into one meaty treat.

Set down a leafy side street in posh Saska Kępa, this Saska Keeper presents a handful of wooden tables inside a monochrome-floored, white-tiled interior adorned with an azure-colored neon and graphic illustrative wall art depicting tasty farmyard animals – if you’re vegan, shoot yourself now. Typed onto a sheet of paper, the menu is an atavistic joyride that arouses primal, caveman urges: sweetbreads with chestnut puree; bone marrow with parsley salad; duck rillettes; and Red Angus steaks of every description. Nothing disappoints. ul. Walecznych 64, miesny.pl

thai Bangkok Soi In terms of interior design, find no more than some Chang beer pennants, Muangthong United football scarves, and film posters with unidentifiable titles. Strangely, however, the basic look feels pleasingly honest. Replicating the street tastes of Bangkok, find vigorously spiced red curry, Som Tam salad containing hard-to-find ingredients such

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EAT! Listings

VEGAN Officially ranked the 7th most vegan-friendly city in the world, Warsaw’s plant-based scene continues to expand at a rate that feels close to exponential – during the last roll-call, there were 161 restaurants to pick from! Sensibly, we’ve whittled that choice to a more digestible figure…

Eden Set inside a masterpiece of modernist architectural design this townhouse feels intriguing and discreet, its crowning glory provided by an all-year greenhouse cluttered with herbs and pot plants. Inside, step inside a super cool world that looks arty and avant-garde. On the menu: organic wines, new wave coffees, and food that runs from sea buckthorn laksa and Korean-style curry to tacos served with avocado tempura. (G3) ul. Jakubowska 16 Krowarzywa Tatts, hats and plaid shirts aplenty in Krowarzywa: a survivor of the hipster era, for many it’s the epitome of Warsaw’s vegan scene. The burgers set a benchmark that all but a few can surpass. (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 27/35, ul.

Hoża 29/31 and Hala Gwardii, krowarzywa.pl Kuchnia Konfliktu First came a food truck, then a cargo container. Now, Kuchnia Konfliktu have a legit address they can finally call home. First founded to provide work for refugees fleeing conflict zones, this social project has won acclaim not just for social initiative, but also for its food. With employees hailing from the likes of Iran, Afghanistan, Chechnya and Iraq, prepare to dive deep into the exotic. (D5) ul. Wilcza 60

Momencik Steamy, tight and sweaty, this pokey subterranean cavern has one key thing going for it: burritos that outrank the majority of ‘proper Mexicans’ in town. The salsas, too, are magnificent (ooh, pineapple), arguably the best in the city.

(D5) ul. Poznańska 16, fb.com/momencik Tel Aviv “People shouldn’t be excluded from high standards just because they’ve chosen the vegan path,” says Malka Kafka, the owner of Tel Aviv. As such, find a plant-based menu that gives the tastes of Israel a fancy schmancy style – so fancy that Depeche Mode ate here last summer! (D5) ul. Poznanska 11, restauracjatelaviv.pl Uki Green Brought to you by Taira Matsuki, the owner of the outrageously successful Uki Uki, the menu includes alternatives such as kimchi-cheese gyoza dumplings, spiced soy meat and ‘vegan eel’. The real plaudits, however, are reserved for the ramen. Tag yourself up in an interior that’s big on Japanese wood joints and concrete finishes.

(D6) ul. Koszykowa 49A, fb.com/ukigreenramen Vegan Ramen Shop Vegan Ramen have struck gold on account of their complex bowls of restorative goodness: their fan base extends way beyond the boundaries of Saska Kępa, a fact that’s led to the opening of a new location in Mokotów.

Enjoy your noodles inside cool interiors filled with cute Japanese props on dozens of ‘levitating shelves’. (G3) ul.

Finlandzka 12A

Leonardo Verde Geometric patterns, plant arrangements and the large format illustrative artwork of Dominique A. Faryno decorate Leonardo Verde, an upmarket – but inexpensive – Italian joint.

Pizza is the forte – order the ‘hot romantic’, a combo featuring chili, avocado and tabasco. (D5) ul.

Poznańska 13, fb.com/leonardo.verde.restaurant

Vege Małpa A raw, hipster era design (monkey wallpaper, cheerful street art, retro fittings and cheeky, offbeat touches) is set against a menu that presents X-rated food porn at its filthy best. The meat-free kebabs and kimchi mad-dogs sell well, but it’s the burgers that make the news. The Smurf-colored Big Blue is a towering wonder of gooey ingredients, though the BBQ Blackout is what we’d return for: it’s the final word in junky pleasure. ul. Poznańska 3 & Racławicka 7, fb.com/vegemalpa

Lokal Vegan Bistro Aside from a small menu consisting of more standard vegan offers, this stalwart keeps Homer Simpson characters in mind with regular guest slots for street food that’s given a full vegan makeover. Offhand, that’s meant vegan kebabs, cheesesteaks, burgers and zapiekanka, all of which have been pretty darn fabulous. (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, lokalveganshop.com

Youmiko Vegan Sushi Exceptional in every respect, Youmiko’s tasting menu is one of the undisputed highlights of what’s become known as the vegan square mile. “Our aim,” declares their manifesto, “is to mix traditional Japanese approaches with Polish creativity and surprise you with new textures and flavors.” Mission accomplished. (D5) ul. Hoża 62, youmiko.vg

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EAT! Listings as green papaya, and Tom Sap soup loaded with lemongrass, galangal, kaffir lime leaves and tomato. In this whir of full-throated flavors, it’s easy to become hopelessly lost in waves of bliss. (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 50

ukrainian Kanapa Ukrainian food gets a fine dining makeover inside a plush villa that’s all sweeping staircases and theatrical chandeliers. Rich and raucous in some parts, refined and delicate in others, the food is a credit to the cunning of the chef. (E8) ul. Narbutta 10, fb.com/kanapa. restauracja Rest.Baczewskich A grander opening there has not been this year. Inspired by the cuisine of Old Poland and pre-war Lviv, dishes include

Galician-style herring and beef cooked in pork fat and served with white porridge and fried cabbage – as classic as they sound, presentation is pure 21st century and fitting of the luxurious surroundings of this one-time palace. Full review coming soon. (E7) Al. Szucha 17/19, baczewskich.rest

vietnamese Oh My Pho A busy, family-run joint, OMP’s specific claim to fame is what many are terming the best and most authentic pho in the ward. Steamy and aromatic, this is pho as it should be: full of big herby thwacks, ribboning noodles, and soft strips of meat in a clear, restorative stock. Often cited as being the ‘soul of the nation’, just a few noisy slurps are all that’s needed to corroborate the life-affirming goodness of this beautiful broth... (D5) ul. Wilcza 32

Vietnamka Divey but lively, diners step down into Vietnamka to find a shouty little lair of mint green walls and wobbly wooden tables. Infused with a gentle sense of chaos, there’s a certain charm at work that feels authentic and convincing. As for the food, you suspect that’ll be ’nam good when TV chef Kurt Scheller wonders in for a take-out. And boy, yes it is. Squiggled onto a crumpled sheet of paper, menu items include giant bowls of warming pho, steamed goat with lemongrass and more-ish spring rolls. (D5) ul. Poznańska 7 Viet Street Food Bistro What started out as a roaming food truck has settled down into life as a legitimate restaurant. Widely looked upon as the source of some of the best Vietnamese chow this city’s ever seen, the small menu contains steaming bowls of pho and banh mi baguettes loaded with meat and greens: both are brill. (H4) ul. Królowej Aldony 5/2, fb.com/vietstreetfoodpl

Flavours of Warsaw - traditional Polish cuisine with a distinctive modern touch. Everything is made from fresh seasonal ingredients.

Enjoy, among many others, roasted pumpkin steak with quinoa, oyster mushrooms and beetroot purèe.

Or try our mouth watering pork ribs with Jack Daniell’s sauce, roasted potatoes, cherry tomatoes and rocketoasted daddle of deer with chestnuts, smoked celery purèe and pan fried Brussels sprouts.

Or perhaps you have a taste for duck breast with bean puree with French potatoes and marinated strawberries.

To finish off delight in our home made pastries. tel. 48 22 621 82 68 Żurawia str. 47/49 Warsaw www.smakiwarszawy.com

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First Sips BREW-TIFUL TIMES

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Set in the same building housing the Museum of Modern Art’s administrative base, Paloma Na Pańskiej feels suitably leftfield and intellectual, a vibe that’s enabled and emboldened by towering shelves heaving with heavyweight art titles, photo albums and coffee table tomes – supplied by the cult Bookoff store, they’re yours to thumb through and later buy. Keeping it all a little retro is a design showcasing white wire chairs, leafy succulents and square black floor tiles, whilst strong wifi and a preponderance of plug points make it a staunch favorite with a freelance crowd that’s often eccentrically attired. As for stimulants, find a serious range of coffee beans sourced from Europe’s top specialty roasters as well as kickass kombucha and homemade tepache – we pretty much love all that they do.

Paloma Na Pańskiej ul. Pańska 3, fb.com/paloma.na.panskie

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drink!

SHUTTERSTOCK

SOME LIKE IT HOT

W

hat’s the magic of winter in Warsaw? For many, it’s roving the Old Town’s streets, hands plunged in pockets and frosted cobbles crunching underfoot as the first fluffy snowflakes spill in slow motion from the skies up above. But Christmas wouldn’t be Christmas without finishing off with a mulled wine (grzane wino) ordered from the huts that line the town square. Sweet, sticky and burn-your-tongue-off hot, it’s the definitive taste of winter in Warsaw. For all that, it’s just not very good.

Using wine and ingredients of the lowest common denominator, the servings on the square have more in line with merriment and insulation than anything bordering

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taste, but that’s not to say all your mulled options are a disaster in the waiting. Taking more time and effort, the bars and restaurants of Warsaw pride themselves on their own customized versions of ‘Christmas in a glass’, and on this front Same Fusy and Café Próżna have long held reputations as being leaders in this field.

Beyond mere wine, craft beer legends Jabeerwocky have scandalized the nerds by perverting their offer with gorgeous mulled beer (grzane piwo) that slips down with ease, whilst Saska Kępa’s Francuska 30 have upped the ante considerably by introducing a separate menu dedicated to mulled drinks – their grzaniec marynarski (cinnamon, lemon juice, rum) is a standout.

Sp Par ot tne lig r ht

SYRENI ŚPIEW RETURNS IN A NEW FORMULA

More than just a club, the new Syreni Śpiew Koneser also now touts a fullyfledged Mediterranean restaurant open seven days a week…

O

pened two months back, the long-awaited return of Syreni Śpiew has wooed the capital with an extended formula that includes a kitchen whose heart is represented by a Neapolitan pizza oven. Now open seven days a week, visit us from noon inside our new location inside the 19 th century Koneser Vodka Factory in Praga. Combining post-industrial design with vibrant urban style, it’s a place in which the walls are steeped in stories.

Featuring four levels, four bars, three stars and a magical winter garden, we’re also proud of our original Italian oven – launched on November 7th, it’s the base of our latest acclaimed concept: Cucina di Syreni Śpiew. Using perfect Italian ingredients, our chef, Dorota Mrówka, worked closely with Norbert Redkie to create a menu that has steered Warsaw’s Mediterranean scene in a brave new direction.

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“We’re just getting started,” says Nortbert Redkie, the founder, CEO and non-executive Head Chef of Grupa Warszawa. “We’re still finessing our offer and making sure it matches up to the expectations of our guests.

We’ve kicked-off by drawing on inspirations from my beloved Italy, a country where simplicity is blended effortlessly with quality and taste, but over the following weeks we’re going to introducing other European tastes, not to mention North African and Israeli influences.”

So what will you find right now in the latest installment of Cucina di Syreni Śpiew? How about trying sandwiches inspired by the Emilia-Romagna region, classic Italian antipasti snacks, sweets from the slopes of the Dolomites, Neapolitan pizzas and a large number of vegetarian and vegan choices. Buon appetito!

Syreni Śpiew Koneser Pl. Konesera 4, fb.com/syrenispiew

drink! Listings bars & pubs The Alchemist A small place with a big bag of tricks: upscale pub grub from the British chef, fancy cocktails, and a self-serve wall of beer from a choice of global brewers.

Poland’s still getting used to the idea of ‘a pint after work’, but in The Alchemist the idea of a post-office drink seems so very right. (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 3, thealchemist.pl Bar Pacyfik Seemingly based upon the kind of Tijuana dive bar you’d have happened upon during the Miami Vice era, Pacyfik is all candy floss pink and shades of teal: a raw-looking den that looks purposefully imperfect. Keeping the hip international crowd on the wrong side of drunk are kick-ass drinks such as their Clamado Michelada or Kimchi Bloody Mary – three sips and you think you’re Superman. (C5) ul. Hoża 61

Bar Studio The dehumanizing dimensions of the Palace of Culture are softened in warmer weather when Pl. Defilad turns into a quasi-party zone. Should it rain, seek shelter under the covered colonnades: there’s room for everyone. And with no nearby residents to pester, it’s just about one of the only places in Warsaw where noise is never an issue – scream and no-one cares. Inside, the gaudy,

echoey interiors are juxtaposed against an arty events program that includes book launches, silent discos, communal breakfasts and gramophone nights. (C4) Pl. Defilad 1, barstudio.pl

Beirut & Kraken Somewhere, amid all the junk relating to the Lebanese conflict (grenades, sandbags, ammo boxes, a rocket…), you’ll find the spirit of Poznańska contained within this long, skinny bar. As fashionable now as it was when it opened, forget not to finish the evening in their connecting venture, the Pirates of the Caribbean-style Kraken Rum Bar. Everybody else does at some stage or other, with evenings often dissolving into a wild, happy whirl of international voices. (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, beirut.com.pl

Central Bar The natural focal point of Hala Koszyki is the Central Bar, a long, long space serving microbrews and classic cocktails such as Pimm’s under a spectacular wrought iron ceiling. Not many places feel as international, and three years after opening it remains one of Warsaw’s top check-ins. Talent spotting doesn’t get any better. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki)

Centrum Zarządzania Światem Covering a couple of levels (and including a secret room snuck behind a bookcase), this social-cultural space is best

described as a composition of molecules that celebrate the suburb: balustrades from Targowa street, street lights from Park Praski and no shortage of murals from local talents. And the toilets? Step inside a cargo container. Something of a multi-use environment, you might walk into a flamenco evening one night and improv comedy performances the next.

(F1) ul. Okrzei 26, centrumswiata.com

Gram Head up the stairs from Warmut (see Cocktails) to uncover Gram, a small room designed to evoke the feeling of stepping inside a circus tent. Set with arcade games (Pac-Man! Space Invaders!!), it’s a super fun space with a fridge of craft beers and quirky little details: look up and you’ll find monkey figures parachuting from the ceiling! You are, in effect, inside a playground for adults. (D6) ul.

Marszałkowska 45/49

Foton It’s good, seriously good. Part of that is down to a design that’s startlingly simple yet beautifully composed: think raw materials, steel frames and a vast, green fleet of tumbling plants. The F&B ain’t bad, either. Pimped up Latin American street food is the order of the day, and it all rhymes well with a drinks menu involving exotica such as chili mango margaritas. The later it gets, the better it is.

(E5) ul. Wilcza 9A, fb.com/foton.bar

Klubokawiarnia Towarzyska Saska’s nightlife is limited to the point of being virtually non-existent, so the existence of Towarzyska is welcome indeed. Set inside a 1950s pavilion and signposted by zippy neon sign, find a cool café on ground level, and a moodier space downstairs that has the atmospheric feel of a David Lynch film. Craft beers and a smoking zone earn bonus points. ul.

Zwycięzców 49

A unique atmosphere and a menu based on steak! Visit also for oriental and international dishes, vegetarian choices, burgers and Middle Eastern mezze.

Start the day with breakfast, pop in for a family dinner, catch-up over coffee or book a romantic dinner. And remember we have karaoke on Wednesday, DJs on Friday, and live music on Sat! ul. Krucza 16/22, www.sphinx.pl

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Koko & Roy Already appearing in our Restaurant section, a growing reputation for long, merry nights is enough to earn Koko & Roy a second listing in the mag. Drink carefully composed cocktails and craft beers from the epic Stu Mostow brewery in an American-run resto-bar that’s starting to attract the full gamut of expat nationalities. An upmarket but quirky décor (Princess Leah on the wall,

Drink! Listings Antony Bourdain in the toilet) is matched by a maverick playlist, spontaneous atmosphere and open hours that have a habit of becoming seriously flexible when the weekend arrives. (D5) ul. Wilcza 43 Legends Run by Graham, an ex-embassy bod and devout Everton fan (well, someone has to be), this Brit pub has become the de facto choice when the football is on. Or the rugby. Or the cricket. Or just about any other sport that expats care to watch.

Whether it’s the Champions League or Bristol City on a wet, Tuesday night, there’s just no better space for boozy banter while the match unfolds. (C5) ul.

Emilii Plater 25, legendsbar.pl

Miejsce Chwila Surviving the move from their former digs is the giant mural of a weatherworn babcia, and it’s under her watery gaze that drinkers congregate to make the most of a decent fridge generously stocked with specialty beers from Poland’s more leftfield producers. Also successfully enduring the challenges of their cross-city move is the underlying spirit that made them so famous.

Defiantly arty in its character, the creative mood that prevails manifests itself in a quirky design that involves retro accents, refurbed armchairs, a neon of Lennon and the compelling illustrations of Izabela Wójtowicz. (D5) ul. Żurawia 47 Offside Located opposite a mural of a giant goose and a gaudy statue of retro football star Kazimierz Deyna, this wreck announces its intention from the off with a piece of graffiti over the bar declaring that, “this is not a f***ing cocktail bar”. Despite the somewhat threatening slogan, it’s a place of amiable anarchy and warm camaraderie. The neo Berlin aesthetic sits well with a crowd composed of maverick artists, local radicals and volunteers from Poland’s first ‘democratic’ football club, AKS ZŁY. (G1) ul. Brzeska 16 Plan B For years it seems Plan B has been the very essence of dive Warsaw. Weekends pass by in a raucous blur, with the party spilling out under the colonnades outside – it helps to look like a DJ, but in truth everyone is welcome to this hive

of debauchery. (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), planb.pl

Praska Presented as a ‘ruin bar’, the interior has to be seen to be believed: crazy local art, twinkling fairy lights, cuddly toys, bits of corrugated iron and a jungle of plants combine to create an extraordinary atmosphere that’s topped out nicely by fab vegan food, beers from the Brooklyn Brewery and an open-minded staff that love to have a chat. Daytime is recommended, but it’s the weekend parties that are really something special. (G1) Brzeska 23 Świetlica Long and narrow, dark and murky, it’s as raw as they come: toilets of grubby menace, a smoking room clad in spray can art, broken fittings and general gloom.

Basically, it’s everything you demand from the last bar of the night – a place where you can slide into the shadows and watch the world spin around. (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 17

Targowy God knows what their secret potion is, but it’s probably something to do with a democratized offer that has something for all: craft beers, hardcore vodkas, decent cocktails and a staff that’s friendly, enthusiastic and always ready with a one-liner.

The design is basic (plastic crates, blue lights), but they don’t need anything more to make it feel special. (B3) Pl. Mirowski 1 Ulubiona Set inside the archway, look for a heavy door next to a dented ashtray seemingly unemptied for the last couple of months.

Shadowy and shabby, you’ll usually find barflies strumming guitars or engrossed in a solo game of chess. An intensely personal experience, it’s a bar that compensates for its lack of glitz with a stoner-style ambiance that soon sweeps over all. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 27 W Oparach Absurdu Somewhere, buried beneath the Persian rugs, dusty velvety drapes and wobbling antiques, you may find a bar. On your way, obstacles in this louche dive may include vodka fueled grans, script-writing beatniks and the trumpet tooting members of the Bum Bum Orchestra. Expect the unexpected. (F1) ul. Ząbkowska 6

EPIC PUB CRAWL! An alternative world of swirling smoke and cackling laughter, the pavilion bars are ensconced in local legend. Looking jumbled and sounding chaotic, it takes a second or two to adjust. Or, more pertinently, a shot or two. And you’ll find these in abundance.

Approximately twenty bars occupy a series of low-budget, prefabricated cabins, presenting possibly the highest concentration of bars in the capital.

While seen from a birds eye perspective this collection of scuzzy pavilions form an upside-down T-shape, from the ground they feel almost maze-like.

Emanating a warm glow, reddish lights pour from the windows, glinting off the puddles that invariably collect in the shattered paving slabs outside. Adding to the gentle sense of confusion comes the realization that so many bars look the same – accessed through clattery, barred doors, visitors walk into what can only be described as murk.

From the traditional favorites, PRL-themed Pewex has long been a pre-Luzztro muster point thanks to its firm commitment to electronic sound. At Komix, walls come sheathed in scenes from Marvel while Precedens go for a harder vibe by matching their rock policy with A4 posters of legendary acts. As for the most infamous?

Step inside Klaps, a bar boldly decorated with dildo beer taps and illuminated boobs: with that in mind, is it really a surprise to find drinks called Flogger, Punisher and Gangbang on the menu?

Though it’s easy to write the pavilions off as a student zone, doing so misses the mark. Sure, there’s a heavy presence of Erasmus types, but find these bolstered by representatives from all walks of life – crowd-wise, you won’t find a more democratic audience in the whole of the city. And as such, neither will you find a night that’s quite as wild and unpredictable as an evening spent here.

The Pavilions Nowy Świat 22/28, pawilonynowyswiat.pl

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drink! Listings Worek Kości H.P. Lovecraft would love it. Decorated with replica skulls (400 reckons the owner!), this place is nothing if not a passionate celebration of the beautiful and bizarre. Burlesque shows are their specialty, but at other times don’t be too shocked to stumble in on meetings with private detectives, seminars by criminal profilers or gigs by bands with names such as Bipolar Order. Crazy, brilliant, etc., and ideal for a night with a difference.

Coffeedesk Looking flawless in her pearl white colors, Coffeedesk is a place that does it right. Brewed by expert coffeeologists, the humble cup of Joe becomes an object of adoration. Populated round-theclock by head-phoned freelancers and digital nomads tapping into their Macs, it’s a light, bright spot with a dynamic style and a keen sense of sexy. (D5)

(E7) ul. Bagatela 10

Cophi The phrase three’s a crowd could have been coined with Cophi in mind. Its super-snug dimensions are ideal for an afternoon spent curled up on an armchair watching the leaves tumble down on Hoża outside. A passion project whose small footprint is counterbalanced by the depth of its offer, the living room vibe mounts when the temperatures start dropping and the interiors act as a beacon to the public. (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60

Wozownia Founded by the same people behind the ‘ruin bar’ inside the original Hala Koszyki, Wozownia brings together the hip and beautiful inside a 200-year-old carriage house. Accessed through a discreet pink-lit passage, and decked out with crates of herbs and flowering plants, the courtyard feels like a cool, private realm. Warsaw’s cheapest Prosecco ensures a high headcount of head-swivelling glamor pusses. (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 16

cafés

Być Może It’s all about artisan bread and breakfast in the industrial looking Być Może. It’s taken the concept of Charlotte (groan, there’s even a communal table), and improved it with excellent breads and a crowd that’s a little less pleased with itself. (E7) ul. Bagatela 14, bycmoze.com.pl

ul. Wilcza 42, fb.com/coffeedeskwilcza

FatWhite_CoffeeBar Attached to the hippest barber shop in town (tatts, beards and crazy whiskers!), the presence of this pocket-sized café gives Muranów a fresh, bold swagger.

Coffee aside (the cold brew rocks), the disarmingly friendly staff and locals generate one of the best café scenes for miles whilst the collection of toy figures (Bart Simpson, DC action heroes and a gun-toting Pacino) feels brilliantly off-beat. Back when the Insider lived in this hood, it was our cafe of choice. (C1) ul. Andersa 6

NEED A VENUE FOR A FAMILY GATHERING OR BIRTHDAY PARTY? CAFE PRZYGODA IS THE PLACE!

- Loads of fun in the indoor playground!

- Family events & birthday parties - Workshops for children (inc. sensory activities and "Gordon's Musical Learning") - Dance and acting classes

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Hałas Vinyl + Coffee At 15 sq/m it’s a squeeze but Hałas doesn’t half pack a punch within its small footprint. Doubling as a friendly record store, it’s the kind of place where super hip punters stock up on Winehouse and Bjork while ordering up coffee ordered from roasters such as London’s Dark Arts roastery. Find their younger sister operating in a chilled out basement on Saska Kępa’s Elsterska 10 – it’s impossible to say which we prefer. ul. Jagiellońska 30 Relaks Now in their ninth year of business, any Hall of Fame just wouldn’t feel complete without the inclusion of this evergreen institution. Jacketed in chipboard panels and retro posters, the buzz about Relaks has lasted so long as to become ingrained in their DNA. (E9) ul. Puławska 48 Relax Na Wilczej An updated upgrade of the original Relax found downtown, this modern day success story maximizes all available space and light with a clean-lined interior that’s embellished by a scattering of coffee tomes and a statement mural by Mariusz Tarkawian. A cracking edition to the capital’s line-up of alt. coffee haunts.

(D5) ul. Wilcza 17

Stor A giant presence on the coffee map of Warsaw, Stor is the ultimate feelgood café: a place of slanting shadows and streaming sunlight, the irresistible ambience is matched only by peerless coffee prepared by expert baristas. (E3) ul. Tamka 33

clubs Enklawa Forget Tinder, Enklawa is the best pick-up joint around – a classic kitschy, glitzy disco, it draws in huge crowds with a simple lineup of pop and dance hits. Still regarded as the best Wednesday night in Warsaw, it’s the place for singletons looking for a one-night confidence boost.

(D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, enklawa.com

kontakt@cafeprzygoda.pl tel. 602 410 420 ul. Bobrowiecka 10

Luztro Don’t sit down, you don’t know what you might catch! Dark and generally grubby, Warsaw’s most (in)famous club only gets going around about three. As the hours

Drink! Listings click towards daybreak, the scenes of depravity are like something from Sodom and Gomorrah. Enjoyed by zombies that quite definitely don’t have to be up for work anytime in the next 48 hrs, it’s not just the full-on techno that will leave the brain rattling – it’s the craziest night in Poland! (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, luztro.pl Mr. Oh A semi-secret world for those In The Know, find Mr. Oh in one of the Harry Potter towers that prop up Poniatowski Bridge. Dark, decadent and redolent of an after-hours members club, this latest concept from Enio Chłapowski-Myjak (formerly of 6 Cocktails) is firmly on its way to becoming the coolest address in town. Late nights, Asian-themed cocktails and an A-list crowd await: full report soon! (F4) Al. 3 Maja / ul. Kruczkowskiego, mr-oh.com

Ritual Looking dark and sensual, this two-level

space unwraps before you like some elaborate adventure. Candles flicker, atmosphere crackles – moving towards the bar, slinky, sultry club creatures of unfathomable beauty prowl past with drinks poised in hand. Heating up gradually as the night progresses, Ritual moves organically from being a voluptuous bar to a spicy club as the night ebbs towards its heady conclusion. (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, ritualwarsaw.com

Sen Entering this top-floor joint, visitors are hit by a tidal wave of gorgeousness: wallto-wall with George Clooney lookalikes, off-duty celebrities and catwalk glamor pusses, the carefree hedonism is like something from a film – only tonight, you’re one of the stars. Sod the bank account, you think, bring me champagne: enjoy just that on a terrace deck slung with Edison bulbs, or indoors in an area festooned with deluxe sofas and floor-to-ceiling windows that stare out

onto the National Stadium opposite. (F4) ul. Wioślarska 6

Spatif Just a smashing night all round: from jazzy singers to funk and soul via a dose of Britpop, the ever likeable Spatif is what Warsaw needs – a place that’s not up its own arse! A labyrinth of pre-war chambers add atmosphere, as does the kind of basement smoking room that encourages obscure chat with indiscriminate strangers. Spatif’s main success lies in replicating the spontaneous feel of a house party that’s spiraled out of control.

(E5) al. Ujazdowskie 45, klubspatif.pl

Syreni Śpiew Koneser Almost mad in the scale of its vision, the multi-floor set up is a big, sexy mash of steel stairs, plush sofas and industrial ephemera. Cocktails are flawless and enjoyed by a glam, pussycat crowd that ranges from downright delicious to the kind of club creatures that stop you dead

A F R E N C H R E V E L AT I O N REDOLENT OF A PARISIEN COURTYARD BAKERY, YOU’LL SMELL THE AROMA OF OUR FRESHLY BAKED BREAD FROM DAWN. OPEN THROUGH THE DAY, WE’RE DELIGHTED TO SERVE OUR FAMOUS BREAKFASTS, TRADITIONAL PASTRIES NOT TO MENTION A SELECTION OF WINES FOR YOUR DINNER. WE LOOK FORWARD TO WELCOMING YOU.

Być Może

ul. Bagatela 14

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drink! Listings in your tracks. As for the weekend parties, these are an exercise in excess with all kinds of lunacy breaking out all around: trapeze artists, sword swallowers, burlesque dancers and more. Leaving, it’s with the senses spinning in a swirl of disbelief. (G1) Pl. Konesera 4, fb.com/ syrenispiew

name isn’t there for window dressing.

The modern design, DJs and drinks work seamlessly to generate an ambiance that’s buzzy, energetic and something of a scene. Cocktail-wise, order Warsaw’s best Pisco Sour or explore a ‘Nikkei’ card that blends Peruvian and Japanese ingredients to present truly unique tastes.

(C4) ul. Twarda 4, cevichebar.pl

cocktails Aura The mousehole dimensions of Aura are tempered by the tall ceilings and Moroccan-style design: dark, mysterious and intriguing, the overriding sentiment extends to the drinks, many of which incorporate Aura’s exhaustive collection of bourbons. Promoting the heavy use of swivelly chrome stools and Persian rugs, the heavy dose of retro glam is balanced out by a crowd that strays into the head turning category. Setting foot inside this secretive den of iniquity, you understand the fuss. ul. Hoża 27 Back Room Plush fabrics, muted lighting, intuitive service, a well-scrubbed crowd, a flickering fireplace and shelves displaying drinks as if they were trophies: the ambiance is nailed down to such an extent that those who use this speakeasy for pre-club drinks often find themselves skipping the club bit altogether. And why bother with anywhere else when you have masterpiece cocktails that are immaculate, imaginative and mixed with practiced expertise. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 49A, fb.com/ BackRoomWarsaw

Biała Saska’s premier cocktail spot reaches the peak of its powers each summer thanks to an attractive back garden that sits in the shade of this pearl white modernist villa – it’s worth visiting just to swan down the outdoor spiral staircase with a glass of something bubbly. The rest of the year ain’t bad either, with sophisticated seasonal cocktails attracting a glam crowd looking for pre-city center drinks.

(H4) ul. Francuska 2

Ceviche Bar Though primarily celebrated for their Latin American menu, the ‘bar’ part of the

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of signature Slings. (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13 (Raffles Europejski), raffles. com/warsaw

Podwale Bar & Books Occupying the kind of charismatic gatehouse you’d read about in T Dickens, position yourself in front of R C T M theP upstairs fireplace for a celebratory C and W a glass of something tall and cigar ≈ W C lovely: the cocktails are in a class of ≈ C own Cand specifically customized their ≈ T season. Spooling, silent Bond for the ≈ P regular E films, burlesque shows and ≈ L S random decorative monkey figures add an ‘element of weird’. (D2) P unexpected B B HE MOST

Charlie Crowd: glam & vampy. The venue: equally so. Occupying the first floor of a pre-war tenement, there’s a magic here that summons the age of F. Scott Fitzgerald – Gatsby would love it. The ace in the pack is a ‘subconscious menu’ from which clients order mystery cocktails based on their scent. (E6) ul. Mokotowska 39 Dom Wódki Those expecting Dom Wódki to be a standard mucky shot bar are in for a surprise.

Sparkling with over 250 artisanal vodkas, find them incorporated into inspirational drinks mixed by Tomasz Małek, a world champion flair bartender. More than just show, the tastes are incredible. (C2) ul.

Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl

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Wąski Dunaj 20, 00-256 Warsaw ul. Wąski Dunaj 20, barandbooks.pl Tel.: +48 225.599.199

Warmut Set in the Commie era No Man’s Land between Zbawiciela and Konstytucji, it’s become one of the hottest nights in town. This vermouth-inspired cocktail bar features classic and house creations, and a spectacular design involving street art,Vgreenery and mirrored walls. But O L Y a P thei npiece de resistance? Those are the www.barandbooks.pl scale models of local landmarks that hang from the ceiling. Instagram them now before everyone else does. (D6) ul. n

El Koktel The pert and pretty are here, so too the well-groomed modern man, but there’s a balance to the crowd that prevents any whiff of snob. As a bar it feels open-minded, engaging and intelligent, and those are traits that rub off on those present. Drinks – such as the smoking Out Of The Box – are insanely good, and served in a small, high-ceilinged interior busy with framed vintage posters, cyan-colored wallpaper, baffling photos of Lynch-esque scenes and gleaming strainers and shakers. (D4) ul. Wojciecha

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Weles Named after the Slavic god of the underworld, everything about Weles evokes the spirit of indulgence: a zinc 1920s ceiling imported from the States, a crystal chandelier and a wooden bar carved from a British carousel. A work of refined craftsmanship, the cocktails stand out as the most sophisticated in the city.

(D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 11, welesbar.pl

Górskiego 9, elkoktel.pl

Long Bar Decked out with smooth marble, natural oak, striking art and soft tan leather, it’s a venue that writes a new chapter in the 160-year story of the venerable Europejski Hotel. Luxurious while never being excessive or ostentatious, there’s a calming sense of class that feels elegant yet relaxed: expensive, yes, prohibitive, no.

Intuitive service, sophisticated drinks and an interior that feels timeless yet historic in equal measure – for the full Raffles experience, order from their choice

craft beer Craft Beer Muranów Humble and unpretentious, CBM’s rising stock has been reflected by their recruitment of Marcin Chmielarz, one of the best-known ‘beer managers’ in Poland.

But even before him, this basic-looking joint was already making ripples for its consistency: a dodgy pint is totally unheard of. (B1) ul. Andersa 23, fb.com/ craftbeermuranow

drink! Listings

Drugie Dno The natural start (or finish) point of any Nowogrodzka pub crawl, head to The Double D for a space that conjures to mind a disused power station: sporting rugged brickwork and a scuffed style, the neo-industrial look is ramped up with the liberal use of steel girders, vintage voltage meters and toilets disguised as elevator shafts. Sixteen taps to drink through, many of them offering extreme drinking solutions from Europe’s most radical breweries. Looks great, tastes great, a factor that ensure a male-to-female ratio that feels roughly equal. (D5) ul.

Jabeerwocky’s very own master brewer.

Nowogrodzka 4

Nowogrodzka 25

Jabeerwocky Drowned in boisterous babble and general pub racket, the affable Jabbers is home to what most rate as the most adventurous choice of craft beer in the city: pioneering international breweries are well represented, but don’t overlook the sensational drinks produced by

for gentlemen

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(D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 12, taproom.pl

Kufle i Kapsle Found somewhere round the top of Warsaw’s hierarchy of craft beer bars, Kufle welcomes all, from entry level novices taking their first steps in the beery world to note-taking nerds conducting research for their blogs. Interiors are respectful of the building’s pre-war heritage and are thick with noise, clamor and the reassuring smell of spillage. The edgy beer selection becomes is even more radical when you look down in the fridge. (D5) ul.

Playhouse Housed in a former subterranean bomb shelter, the talk now is of bombshells: namely the 57 stunners they’ve got listed

on their books. Inspired by high class joints in London and Vegas, it’s a refined choice with a no-pressure atmosphere and door staff that don’t look like they’re going to kick your head in. (B3) Al. Solidarności 82A, playhouse.pl

live music Hydrozagadka / Chmury Set out in the wildlands of Praga, consider this pair of neighboring venues as the definition of unforced cool. Known for their alternative music scene, the lowceilings and their tight, crowded confines generate an electrifying atmosphere where the audience and band become one. Walking a fine line between industrial and straight out decrepit, the ambiance is second to none: drinks flow, strangers meet and music smashes out – you can feel something special happening here. ul. 11 Listopada 22

Drink! Listings Pardon To Tu Prepare for a heady swirl of innovative sounds, with the foggy atmosphere given a helping hand by an unorthodox audience that gels together into one vibrant mass. Set across two floors, find bordello colors set against a wall of glory namechecking the obscure musical heroes through which this venue channels its spirit. Adding an extra layer of depth to Warsaw’s social scene with its flexi hours, maverick music policy and air of unforced cool, PTT win brownie points for their cool craft beers and cracking focaccia. (D6) Al. Armii Ludowej 14, pardontotu.pl

had bingo nights, as well – hosted by Charlotte Drag Queer. In a city that’s always felt a little lacking in the ‘live’ department, Pogłos punches past sensibility to present evenings that are raw, uncompromising and always high on action. ul. Burakowska 12

wine bars

Bubbles Behold, the city’s most prodigious choice of champagne! Though price points can climb high, more affordable options are prevalent. Excellent cocktails, wonderful slow food choices and a charmingly cluttered interior add to the appeal. (D2)

Klub Pogłos Scuzzy and a bit seamy, this alt. performance venue gives Warsaw an interesting, if not utterly random direction Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, bubbles.com.pl with an events schedule that involves spoken word performances, vegan BBQs, Kieliszki Na Hożej old skool rave nights and hardcore gigs Go on, count them: hanging tantalizingly from bands with names like Cancer Bats over the bar are 1,116 glasses, a testareklama PVM half_page_H_144x102.ai 1 19.06.2019 14:21:41 and Moscow Warsaw Death Insider Brigade.

They’ve ment to Kieliszki’s promise to serve all the

wines they have by the glass. Enjoy them on a cobbled street that’s been magnificently restored to its pre-war prime. (D5) ul. Hoża 41

Mielżyński Wine Bar Set within a former factory compound, the area has been revived with the legendary Mielżyński Wine Bar at its core. A flagbearer when it comes to consistency and quality, this post-industrial space remains a default favorite of the Warsaw public.

(A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7 (also on Czerska 12)

Nowina The striking interior that catches the eye from across the street – restored pre-war tiling, glinting surfaces, a world map rendered from corks and an engaging reddish glow all do their bit to lend Nowina the kind of atmosphere that’s missing in most local wine bars. Add to that an exciting international menu and a selection of over 400 wines and you have an absolute winner. (D4) ul. Nowogrodzka 4, nowina.waw.pl

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TRAMPOLINE PARK

ROPE PARK

The biggest attraction of Warsaw’s Stacja Grawitacja is our 1,300 sq/m Trampoline Park.

Here, find trampolines, a fitness course, a multi-level platform and a giant 90 sq/m AirBag.

Thirty-nine different challenges await aimed at various levels of competency – as the only covered rope park in Poland, expect the highest-standard Vertical Trek Innovation features to keep you safely anchored while having fun.

NINJA OBSTACLE COURSE

PRO AREA

One of the key elements of our park. Find nearly 20 obstacles of varying difficulty making it ideal for warriors of all ages – from the youngest little ninjas in the family to the oldest! It’s the perfect place to brush up on new skills.

The Pro Area is a large air floor with modern gym equipment from AirGym including gymnastic mattresses of differing thickness, Europtramp Ultimate Olympic trampolines, wall bars and more.

Our professional staff will ensure your mastery of even the trickiest equipment.

BASKETBALL

AIRBAG AREA

The basketball area consists of two adjacent zones: a dunking area and a basketball court (equipped with trampolines) allowing visitors to practice tricks and dunks.

Featuring a 90 sq/m AirBag surrounded by trampolines and our incredible multi-level platform, this zone is the definition of an adrenaline rush. Battle your friends in our Gladiator ring to find out who is the greatest of them all!

VIDEOGAMES WITH TRAMPOLINES

DODGE BALL

Our interactive trampoline platform combines elements of video gaming with trampolining: compete against your friends while tracking your score online.

Play the legendary dodge ball game! Invoke the memories of youth by entering a dodge ball competition that’s been updated for modern times!

Stacja Grawitacja Al. Bohaterów Września 12, stacjagrawitacja.pl

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

ALL THINGS GREAT & SMALL Marvel at the shrink wrapped world of The Dollhouse Museum…

>> warsawinsider.pl

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n one scene, a disheveled writer lies clothed and collapsed on a bed surrounded by empty wine bottles and scrunched up papers. In another, blue-eyed, blond-haired girls exercise in a Nazi era gym facility. There is more. Medics surround a boy on a stretcher in a field hospital whilst bandaged patients implore to be seen; a nun lies stone dead in an open coffin awaiting burial; and a whiskered painter sits in stained overalls amid easels and brushes and artsy ephemera. As if it couldn’t get more surreal, attention switches to a school classroom of uniformed rats. Their diligence, you can tell, is being tested by the unruly behavior of a rodent friend sequestered to a detention room.

No, these are not snapshots from the weird daydreams we have on the bus into work, rather just some of the exhibits to be found in The Dollhouse Museum.

Staggering in their meticulous attention to detail, around 140 find themselves crammed inside a former VIP room used by the likes of Marlene Dietrich and The Rolling Stones prior to their performances in the Palace of Culture’s Congress Hall.

Faithfully restored by a team of artisans, these miniature worlds are the result of one woman’s obsession. Moved to give her daughter a present she would never forget, screenwriter and producer Aneta Popiel-Machnicka decided on a dollhouse. Quickly, though, it dawned that to find one that met her specifications she would either have to build it herself or look beyond Poland’s borders for an antique to renovate.

She chose the latter and in the process uncorked what would become an enduring passion. A website dedicated to dollhouses followed, and then the establishment of a foundation focused on their rejuvenation. With her growing collection reaching critical mass, the launch of a museum was the next logical step.

Intricate, dainty and delicate in their beauty, these are not the tacky Barbie houses one imagines, rather spectacular creations that are a paean to craftsmanship.

Even more so, they serve as a fascinating glimpse into past, distant times: acting as what PopielMachnicka describes as a “historical freezeframe”, the houses and their habitants are a microscopic insight into everything from the culture and customs of yore to the architecture and fashion.

Dating as far back as 200-years, and sourced from countries as afar afield as the USA and Thailand, they come steeped in stories: for instance, the so-called “Miss Hope’s House”, built by a Polish pilot decorated for his wartime heroics with the RAF. Though its creator settled in England after WWII, the structure was returned to its author’s home country after being bought at auction and undergoing six-years of restoration. In a world dominated by CGI and dumbed down tourism, The Dollhouse Museum is something else entirely – to miss it, you miss something unique, eccentric and completely bonkers.

The Dollhouse Museum Pl. Defilad (PKiN), muzeumdomkow.pl

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Sp Par ot tne lig r ht

A VERY VIRTUAL CHRISTMAS For a gift with a twist look no further than the realm of VR!

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ith the arrival of Christmas comes the challenge and headache of finding the ideal gift.

But stress no-more, for at the InGame Salon you’ll find a universal solution that will delight those of all ages – from the youngest kids to the grandparents themselves. And not only that, it’s also perfect for birthdays, company bashes and other events that need to be that extra bit special.

Set down a passage inside the Warsaw Electronic Exchange, visit us to enjoy the latest VR technology, simulators and consoles, not to mention our bar, karaoke facilities and umpteen other attractions!

Experience sensations you never thought possible

through the realm of VR: transported to different worlds, untold thrills await users, from car racing and space exploration to action and adventure. But that’s just the tip of the iceberg: covering every theme you can imagine (and some you can’t!), the wide range of genres include music, movies, horror, education, art and sport.

At InGame Salon, the wildest dreams come true.

Perfect for both groups and individuals, for the perfect Christmas gift quote ‘Warsaw Insider’ and receive a 15% discount on vouchers.

InGame Salon Al. Niepodległości 208B, ingame.waw.pl

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THE MAGNIFICENT SEVEN!

Warsaw’s rich history and cultural significance has left it with no shortage of museums to visit. Offering a well-rounded view of the city’s past and present, these are the seven you just shouldn’t miss…

N AT I O N A L M U S E U M Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars. That’s reason enough for many, but for others the museum’s ace card was revealed at the end of 2017 with the opening of the Gallery of Polish Design. Offering a full 360 view of Polish 20th century applied arts, it’s an aesthetic joy featuring everything from iconic PRL era wall units and tulip chairs to kitschy toys and gizmos.

Frankly, it’s stunning. Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl T H E WA R SAW R I S I N G M U S E U M When it comes to the definitive story of the insurgency, the Warsaw Rising Museum leaves no stone unturned. If the throngs and sheer informational overload can often be daunting, it remains the most important museum in the capital, and quite arguably the country. Points of interest are rife and include a life-size replica of a B-24 Liberator plane as well as a claustrophobic ‘sewage tunnel’ through which visitors squeeze to get an idea of the kind of conditions combatants once faced. But it’s not the A-list sights that make the biggest impact, rather the smaller, highly personal curios: a pair of wedding bands forged from bullets; an Omega watch, it’s hands frozen at the same moment a bomb killed its owner; and a lucky cuddly mascot made from a German overcoat. Of course, the aftermath is also covered in heartrending detail and concludes with a 3D film that takes viewers swooping over the smoldering ruins of the capital. ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl MUSEUM OF LIFE UNDER COMMUNISM A deeply personal insight into the former system by allowing visitors to view what Communism meant to the everyday person. Here, rifle and rummage through a room mocked-up to resemble a typical household apartment, watch propaganda films, peer inside a phone box, paw at vintage keep-fit gear or covet the ladies fashions of the time. Detailed in its captions, witty in its presentation and comprehensive in its content, it is a place where normal items such as aftershave bottles, postcards, clothing and crude household appliances are allowed to shine on a totem and tell their own story. A haven of trinkets and collectibles, its small size belies its utter magic. ul. Piękna 28/34, mzprl.pl

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FRYDERYK CHOPIN MUSEUM

M U S E U M O F WA R SAW

The 18th century Ostrogski Palace is the perfect foil for the ultra-modern content of this multi-sensory space.

The personal items are captivating (his death mask, gifts from his muse, etc.), but the big victory here is the museum’s ability to suck visitors right back into the times of Chopin through the use of interactive sights and sounds. ul. Okólnik 1, chopin.museum

Reprised as a maze-like treasure filled trove glimmering with curiosities, thousands of objects have been gathered here to detail the story of Warsaw in a non-linear style that can at times feel overwhelming.

Peculiar souvenirs, scale models, old postcards and recovered works of art all combine with a mass of trivia to leave visitors boggled with knowledge. The vertiginous views of the Rynek below are worth the admission alone. Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42, muzeumwarszawy.pl

NEON MUSEUM

Playing a key role in the government’s attempts to fuse socialist ideology with consumerism, the campaign to ‘neon-ize’ Poland saw gloomy cities still bearing the scars of war boldly gleam once more under lights designed and produced by many of the leading artisans of the time. Salvaged from the scrapheap (in many instances, literally), this museum houses several dozen neons that once lit up the capital and beyond. Beautiful in every respect, these renovated signs make for Warsaw’s coolest attraction: Instagram them now! ul.

Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org

POLIN

Composed of eight galleries, this architectural marvel covers different stages of local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day. Highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec synagogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical inter-war Jewish Warsaw street. That it was named the European Museum of the Year in 2016 such much for its ambitions to focus on more than the Holocaust alone. ul.

Anielewicza 6, polin.pl

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PAW I A K

M A R I E S K ŁO D O W S K A - C U R I E M U S U E M

MUSEUMS Car Museum Home to over 300 vehicles, displays include a 1930s Polish-produced Buick, WWII trucks and tanks, a Ford Thunderbird and Buick Skylark.

From behind the Iron Curtain, car boffins will go bananas over the Russian-made Volgas, John Paul II’s Pope Mobile, and domestic classics such as the Syrena 104. ul. Warszawska 21 (Otrębusy), muzuem-motorzyacji. com.pl

Dulag 121 Though much is now known about the Warsaw Uprising, the fate of the civilians driven from their homes remains rather more murky. Dulag 121, a former prison and transit camp in Pruszków, redresses the balance by documenting this grim exodus in detail. On the NoM night tours of the grounds will be conducted by hisorians. ul. 3 Maja 8A (Pruszków), dulag121.pl

Earth Museum Staring at bits of rock and fossils isn’t everyone’s idea of fun, but a visit here isn’t

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necessarily a snore. The building itself is magnificent, and considered “one of the best achievements of contemporary Polish architecture as far as decorative stone is concerned.” The real curiosity, however, is the patch of blood left by an unknown soldier during the 1944 Warsaw Uprising. The stain has survived to this day. Al. Na Skarpie 20/26, mz.pan.pl

Ethnographic Museum Considerably revamped to meet the demands and attention-spans of the 21st century sightseer, the Ethnographic Museum is a visual pleasure that showcases colorful costumes, fabrics and ceramics from Poland and beyond. ul. Kredytowa 1, ethnomuseum.pl

The Heritage Interpretation Center This small venue tells the complex story of Old Town’s reconstruction: if the first section about Warsaw’s physical elimination is poignant, then the others do a fabulous job of sharing the optimism and alacrity that followed. ul. Brzozowa 11-13,

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mhw.pl Jewish Historical InstituteOfficially opened in 1947 the Jewish Historical Institute was created to serve as an archive of Jewish culture in Warsaw. It contains artwork, historical artifacts and important documents from the city’s rich Jewish past. ul. Tłomackie 3/5, jhi.pl

Marie Skłodowska-Curie Museum Reopened after a significant re-haul, this museum celebrates the groundbreaking scientist that discovered polonium. The Curie-osities include lab equipment, her trademark black dress and even her nail file. ul. Freta 16, en.muzeum-msc.pl

Katyń Museum This museum commemorates the murder of 21,000 Polish officers by the Soviets in the spring of 1940. Beyond its quite staggering architectural merit, the museum has done a stunning job of collecting and presenting artifacts relating to the slaughter. ul. Jeziorańskiego 4, muzeumkatynskie.pl

Legia Warszawa Museum Marketed as Poland's biggest football club, this museum seeks to confirm this status with the usual spread of glinting silverware. More interesting are the weird bits and pieces: a chunk of the old floodlights, vintage match posters and a collection of paraphernalia connected to Legia’s favorite son – 80’s super star Kazimierz Deyna. ul. Łazienkowska 3

Miniature Park Magnificently detailed 1:25 scale models of Warsaw’s vanished, pre-war architectural treasures make this a stand-out little secret. Here, landmarks such as Saski Palace, the ‘summer theater’ and Żelazna Brama have been lovingly brought back from the dead in astonishing fashion. ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 66, miniaturymazowieckie.com

Museum of Praga The Praga Museum tells the story of the area with such charm and simplicity that it manages to leave an unlikely impression that’s as punchy as that of the big institutions.

Star billing goes to a restored Jewish prayer room and the Flying Carpet: an exhibit fes-

tooned with various trinkets and treasures once available for purchase from local pavement traders. ul. Targowa 50/52, muzeumwarszawy.pl

Palmiry National Memorial Museum An excellent multimedia exhibition set next to a cemetery holding the graves of 1,700 Poles executed in the first years of Nazi occupation.

The museum tells their forgotten story as well as that of the siege and subsequent occupation of Warsaw.

Palmiry, palmiry.mhw.pl

Pawiak What was once a Tsarist prison assumed a doubly sinister function under the Nazis. Some 100,000 Polish political prisoners were held here, 37,000 of which were executed on-site. Split in two sections, cells are found on one side, while on the other the full story of the invasion and occupation. ul. Dzielna 24/26

The Royal Castle in Warsaw Highlights include the lavishly restored 18th century royal apartments with 22 paintings

by Canaletto, the Senators’ Chamber in which the Constitution of the Third of May was signed, the biggest collection of oriental rugs in Europe and two remarkable Rembrandt paintings. Pl. Zamkowy 4, zamek-krolewski.pl Train Museum Inside, find 200 scale models of locomotives and steam engines, some beautifully detailed model villages and all kinds of train related ephemera: clocks, timetables, uniforms, etc. Outside is where the real anoraks head though, namely to clamber over fifty trains and carriages in various stages of life.

Top billing goes to a 1942 German armored artillery train, and the walnut-clad personal wagon once used by Poland’s first post-war leader, Bolesław Bierut. ul. Towarowa 3, stacjamuzeum.pl

EXPERIENCES Copernicus Science Centre Zillions of interactive exhibits allow visitors to experience an earthquake, walk on the moon, look at the world through the eyes of a snake and discover if your partner’s a good liar – and that’s the tip of the iceberg. ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, kopernik. org.pl

Fotoplastikon Thought to date from 1905, Warsaw’s Fotoplastikon generates 3D perspectives from a set of 2D images: visitors peer through an eyepiece and are taken on a trip around the world while music from days yore parps away in the background. Al. Jerozolimskie 51, fotoplastikonwarszawski.pl

Invisible Exhibition Head to the Invisible Exhibition to learn first-hand the challenges faced by the blind.

This includes everything from crossing the road to ordering a drink in a bar. Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, niewidzialna.pl

Obiekt Alfa If you think we live in scary times then a visit to this Cold War nuclear bunker is a timely reminder that it could all be worse. Built to house a top secret chemical research unit, it’s from here Poland’s medical operation would have been conducted in the event of the red button being pressed. Frozen in time, it’s super creepy. ul. Kozielska 4, obiektalfa.pl

Pinball Station An unruly riot of beeps and flashes and jolly jingles, Pinball Station presents fifty plus machines from the pre-digital age. Can you touch them? Yes, yes and yes! For a flat rate of zł. 30, visitors can spend as much time as they have testing their skills on classics such as Dirty Harry, Buck Rogers and Revenge From Mars. ul. Kolejowa 8A,

particular interest for artists and intellectuals. ul. Jazdów 2, csw.art.pl

Dom Spotkań z Historią The History Meeting House wins points for small but frequently excellent exhibitions that cover topics such as ‘rebuilding Warsaw’ and ‘Socialist Realist architecture.’ ul. Karowa 20, dsh.waw.pl

pinballstation.pl

GALLERIES & EXHIBITION S PAC E S Caricature Museum Having recently fought off an attempt to merge it into the Museum of Warsaw, the museum still stands on its own feet fulfilling its mission to bring mirth and a bit of mayhem to Warsaw’s cultural scene. ul. Kozia 11, muzeumkarykatury.pl

CSW Situated in a baroque-style castle the center hosts artists from all over the world.

The on-site bookshop is of

Museum on the Vistula Previously used to temporarily house Berlin’s Kunsthalle, this riverfront pavilion has housed a number of edgy contemporary exhibitions including, most recently, one dedicated to the works of Daniel Rycharski. ul.

Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 22, artmuseum.pl

Zachęta National Art Gallery Regarded as one of Poland’s most prestigious galleries, the Zachęta has a busy program of temporary exhibitions that frequently showcase some of the biggest names in domestic and international contemporary art. Pl. Małachowskiego 3, zacheta.art.pl

w W a r s a www.city-tour.com.pl

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XMAS FAIRS & MARKETS Fair Of Beautiful Things 1 Dec @ Centrum Praskie Koneser, Pl. Konesera 2 You could make an argument for this being Warsaw’s most interesting design fair. On show: ecocosmetics, retro-vintage products, textiles, trendy local ceramics, original furniture, kids gizmos, elaborate plants, thrilling art and so much more.

For further info, see: targirzeczyladnych.pl

Oriental Christmas Bazaar

7 Dec @ Museum of Asia & Pacific, ul. Solec 24 Over 40 exhibitors are expected to present an offer ranging from costumes and cosmetics to accessories and artwork.

This diverse event will see stalls hawking goods from India, Indonesia, Japan, China and umpteen countries ending with ‘stan’.

Świąteczny Stół

7 December @ ul. Mysia 3 Trick out your home to meet all the statutory requirements of hygge: artisanal ceramics, eco candles, bath bombs, flatware, floral decorations, etc. from a range

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of brands such as NAP, Mosko Ceramics, Vaczor and Muji.

29th Ethnographic Christmas Fair

8 December @ Ethnographic Museum, ul. Kredytowa 1 Give your Christmas a folkish spin by visiting the Ethnographic Museum for one of Warsaw’s longestrunning festive fairs. Traditional art and handicrafts from across Poland’s regions await, as well as those from neighboring Ukraine and Belarus.

Handmade from natural materials, gifts include ceramics, toys, jewelry and… colorful spiders!

Slow Weekend

7-8 December @ ul.

Mińska 65 Dubbed ‘the slowest fair this winter’, find the best of Polish fashion and design presented inside a postindustrial complex in the heart of Praga Południe.

Placing an emphasis on creativity, over 300 niche brands will gather to offer original designs, clothing, eco cosmetics and accessories.

For further details, see: slowweekend.pl

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2019

Coffee & Chocolate Festival 7-8 December @ Centrum Praskie Koneser, Pl. Konesera 1 Cupping workshops, culinary shows and tastings will all play their part in this two-day event, and we’re likewise promised a host of stalls retailing specialty coffee, coffee paraphernalia and gourmet chocolate.

Furthermore, this won’t be the only fair at Koneser that weekend – also on-site find a gift promoting domestic, non-mass manufactured goods and design.

Poster Fair

8 December @ Dom Towarowy Bracia Jabłkowscy, ul. Bracka 25 Give the gift of art and browse four floors of illustrations, posters and graphic art. Taking place for the seventh time, it’s one of the more unusual fairs of all and a must for lovers of the so-called Polish school of poster. Admission: zł. 5.

Finnish Market

14 Dec @ ul. Jazdów 10/8 For something completely different check out this small scale Finnish market set to take place in the Finnish Houses wdevelopment. Aside from offering Finnish handicrafts and natural products, you’ll also be treated to Finnish carols.

Upcycling Festival

14-15 Dec @ Centrum Praskie Koneser, Pl. Konesera 1 You’ll be amazed at what you can do with bits of broken cars, battered pianos and long dead teddy bears. Join workshops led

by DIY experts to learn how

to revive the things you were about to chuck out, or browse the stalls for utterly unique upcycled items such as furniture, ceramics, jewelry and toys.

Fair of Fancy Things

14-15 Dec @ Hala Gwardii, Pl. Żelazna Brama 1 Co-organized by the Zoo Market, head to Hala Gwardii to root through the best of vintage vinyl and fashion whilst also browsing domestic lifestyle items and accessories. The motto of the even is “best quality” and that’s precisely what you can expect.

Art Fair

15 Dec @ Royal Castle (Kubicki Arcades), Pl. Zamkowy 4 Created ten years ago by both students and graduates of the Academy of Fine Arts in Warsaw, find the work of both groups on show in the atmospheric arcades beneath the castle.

Featuring works by established and debut artists, the works include paintings, illustrations, photography, drawings, etc.

For further info, see: targowiskosztuki.waw.pl

Wzory Design Fair

21-22 Dec @ Dom Towarowy Bracia Jabłkowscy, ul. Bracka 25 Some say that by visiting Wzory you’ll be saving the best till last. Over 200 exhibitors will present furnishings, lamps, graphics, ceramics and textiles and their offer will be bolstered by a secondfloor gift zone hawking eco cosmetics, jewelry and suchlike.

For details, see: wzorytargi.pl

EXHIBITION REVIEW: DEER WARSAW! A new exhibition celebrates the story of the most magical animal of all: the deer…

F

rom cave paintings to gran’s sideboard via ancient myths and contemporary apartments: you’re going to find depictions of hoofed animals everywhere!

The deer – that magical, mythical, prestigious, kitschy, glittery creature – is the hero of the latest temporary exhibition rolled out by The National Ethnographic Museum in Warsaw.

Arguably, no other animal capture’s the imagination in quite the same way – reappearing in various forms through the ages, The Many Incarnations of Deer exhibition shows how the animal has been depicted throughout the course of history, right from its early appearances in mythology, its near vilification as a symbol of kitsch, up until its present

symbolism as an ironic, almost subversive decoration.

Vernacular art, 19th century petit-bourgeois interior decorations, folksy figurines, paintings, handmade tapestries, contemporary home and garden elements, design and illustration all feature heavily in an exhibition addressed to every type of audience: younger guests will be able to follow the mysterious hoof trails leading into a fairytale forest in the middle of the city, familiarize themselves with classic illustrations, and be captivated by this world of myth and legend. Older visitors, meanwhile, find themselves immersed in an extraordinary journey into the folk imagination with exhibits touching on sentimental and nostalgic elements, as well as the contemporary.

Above: Górnik w lesie, a painting

by Teofil Ociepka in the collection of the Ethnographic Museum.

The Deer Incarnation

11 Dec – 1 March, 2020 The National Ethnographic Museum in Warsaw ul. Kredytowa 1, ethnomuseum.pl

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THE ESSENTIALS...

Cut through the chaff and time manage your visit as effectively as possible.

CHOPIN MUSEUM

T H E R O YA L C A S T L E

able. Explore the more ambient side to Communism in the Neon Museum and then head across town to check the new location of the Czar PRL Museum (czarprl.pl). A warm and eccentric look at daily life under Communism, this fantastic museum is established as one of Warsaw’s quirkiest attractions.

Equally weird, explore a former nuclear bunker by visiting the once top secret Obiekt Alfa (obiektalfa. pl). Lastly, take a look at what’s on at Dom Spotkań z Historią, a small exhibition space that specializes in interesting photo exhibits that delve into Warsaw’s past – though subject matter varies, the PRL era receives the lion’s share of attention.

MODERN WARSAW THE OLD…

The Old Town, raised from the rubble after WWII, is symbolic of the ‘phoenix city’ that ‘survived its own death’.

The Royal Castle is a maze of fancy chambers and important paintings by the likes of Rembrandt and Canaletto, while the Museum of Warsaw offers a peerless peek into the complexities of Warsaw’s story: the view of the Old Town Square from the top is worth the admission alone. Close by, check out the city that once was at Park Miniatur, a beautiful exhibition displaying intricate scale models of the city’s pre-war architectural glories. To soak in the extravagances of Poland’s imperial years, take a walk around the immaculate Łazienki Park or, further out, visit Wilanów Palace: frequently nicknamed ‘the Polish Versailles’, the landscaped gardens are glorious when they shimmer in the winter light. Finally, tap into the very essence of the Polish soul by visiting the Vodka Museum on the right side of town.

WWII

Memories of WWII still cast a long shadow over the town. Learn about the 1944 Warsaw Uprising at The Rising Museum: it’s deservedly rated as among the most important cultural institutions in the country. Lesser known, the Old Town’s ‘Heritage

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Centre’ documents the destruction (and subsequent reconstruction) of the city, while three separate museums, Pawiak, Szucha and Katyń, cover equally somber chapters in Poland’s dark history. To get up close and personal to military hardware, visit the Polish Army Museum. With 2019 marking the 70th anniversary of both the Nazi and Soviet aggression, visiting all feels particularly relevant.

JEWISH WARSAW

Though largely flattened, the former Jewish Ghetto contains numerous memorials, among them the Umschlagplatz monument marking the spot where trains departed for the gas chambers of Treblinka. The one synagogue that survived (Twarda 6) is the center of local Jewish life, while the innovative Polin museum covers all aspects of this nation’s Jewish history. More old school in style, the Jewish Historical Institute often hosts thought provoking exhibitions linked to the wartime suffering of the Jewish population.

COMMUNISM

A full tour of Stalin’s Palace of Culture is essential: the basements (protected from rodents by a team of feline guardians) are intriguing and the top-floor viewing terrace unimpeach-

Wonder amid rioting children and whirring machines in the Copernicus Science Centre and after, visit the university library to explore the stunning, cosmic rooftop garden. The Museum of Modern Art is a short walk away whilst across the water, the state-of-the-art National Stadium conducts regular tours and thrills both stadium geeks and football fans alike.

In the Old Town area, the Museum of Illusions promises a hallucinogenic dose of fun for all ages.

ART

Serious art lovers flock to the National Museum for its determined presentation of art through the ages – reserve time for their brilliantly retro Gallery of Polish Design. The Zachęta and CSW are more alternative with captivating exhibitions that excite non-conformists. And keep your eyes peeled outside: some of the city’s best art is found on its walls – the Praga district is especially celebrated for its large format wall murals.

PEOPLE

The watchful shadow of Chopin looms large across Warsaw: the museum dedicated to his memory amazes by the breadth of its scope. If you’ve got time (and even if you haven’t), a day trip to his birthplace in Żelazowa Wola is always a rewarding experience. Onto other local greats, the Marie Curie Museum in New Town does a sterling job of remembering the world’s most famous female scientist.

LEARNING preschools American School of Warsaw Students aged 3-5 are encouraged to try new things, ask questions, and take risks in a nurturing environment in which they learn life skills alongside academics.

Following the Primary Years Programme (PYP), our young students become caring, active participants in a lifelong journey of learning. Contact admissions@ aswarsaw.

The British Primary School of Wilanów The British Primary School of Wilanów A values-driven school offering a world-class education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS).

Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9. Please email admissions@bswilanow.org to organise a visit.

From our Family to Yours, we wish you a beautiful and peaceful Christmas and a healthy New Year!

Casa dei Bambini, Warsaw Montessori School “Bringing light and education to our community for children 18 months to 18 years.”

www.wmf.edu.pl

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The British School Early Years Centre The British School provides EYFS classes from Pre-nursery (age 30 months) to Reception (5 years old).

Children develop quickly and their Early Years practitioners aim to do all they can to help your child have the best possible start in life and become a lifelong learner. ul. Dąbrowskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646 7777 , thebritishschool.pl

The Canadian School of Warsaw Preschool Welcoming students from the ages of 2.5 to 6 years old, currently 45% of their

admissions are international students.

The dedicated, IB-trained teachers deliver an innovative program (PYP) in English designed for modern world needs. The program offers a combination of Literacy, Maths, Social Studies, Science, Physical Education, Art, Music & Rhythmics, French and Polish classes. ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, canadian-school.pl

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations) Warsaw Montessori School Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have three green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin.

The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy.

Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel.

22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, warsawmontessori.edu.pl

International Trilingual School of Warsaw Established in 1994, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fill-immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul.

Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/saint-exupery.pl

The English Playhouse The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of

Mokotów and Wilanów. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old. For more info or to arrange a tour call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email: jnowak@ theenglishplayhouse.com ul. Pływiańska 14a, tel. 22 843 9370, tep.edu.pl

from Rotmistrzowska/Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, mapletreemontessori.pl

4 (Konstancin), Open 8:00-16:45, tel. 502 315 022, montessoriacademy.eu

Międzynarodowa Szkoła Podstawowa Argonaut This elementary school is open for children of all nationalities and backgrounds.

It places a focus on learning English as well as additional languages, and has an attractive list of available extracurricular activities.ul. Radarowa 6, tel. 504 509 504, argonaut.edu.pl

Maple Tree Montessori Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance

Montessori Academy for International Children An English-speaking pre-school (16 months to 6 years of age) with two locations. The school’s policy is to comply with Montessori standards, using the Montessori Method in English.

The school’s philosophy is based on the joy of learning, which comes from discovering and furthering the individual development of each child. ul.

Królewicza Jakuba 36 (Wilanów), ul. Sadowa

Montessori Stepping Stones An intimate, international, English-speaking preschool located in Powsin that follows the Montessori philosophy which emphasizes the individuality of each child. Children from the ages of 1.5-years-old to 6-years-old are welcome, with the school’s goals aimed at facilitating the individual development of the child, both physical and mental, through a system that is focused on the spontaneous use of the human intellect. ul. Przyczółkowa 140, tel.

728 939 582, montessoristeppingstones.pl

Trilingual Pre-school and Nursery “Three Languages” Center The only trilingual pre-school and nurs-

The pursuit

of excellence We promise to support your child to love learning and achieve more than they ever thought possible.

www.thebritishschool.pl

Please email admissions@thebritishschool.pl or call (0048) 22 842 32 81 ext. 125 to arrange a tour

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ery teaching English, Spanish and Polish through total language immersion. All educators are native speaker pre-school teachers. The comprehensive curriculum follows American, Spanish and Polish curriculum standards. The pre-school was awarded European Language Label in 2012. ul. Karowa 14/16 lok 6 (3-6 year olds); ul. Cicha 5 lok 1 (1-2 year olds), tel. 517 872 682, 3languages.pl

schools

The British Primary School of Wilanów A values-driven school offering a world-class education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS). Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9. Please email admissions@bswilanow.org to organise a visit.

American School of Warsaw With over 50 nationalities, ASW has been welcoming students from around the world since 1953. As an IB Continuum school, our students follow the PYP, MYP and DP throughout their learner journey. These programmes develop inquiring, knowledgeable and caring young people who are motivated to succeed. They are inspired by our highly qualified and international teaching staff. Students graduate with either the IB diploma or an American high school diploma. All programs are conducted in English, with integrated EAL support for non-native speakers. Contact: admissions@aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00, ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), aswarsaw.org

The British School Premium international school established in 1992 by Nord Anglia Education. The curriculum is designed to provide the highest academic quality of education. They follow the English National Curriculum, adapted to the needs of their international student community: from Primary through to the Secondary Key Stages to the IGCSE examinations and a well-established International Baccalaureate (IB) Diploma Program. ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, thebritishschool.pl

Accepting applications for Nursery to Year 9 bsw.com.pl +48 221 110 062 ul. Hlonda 12, Warsaw admissions@bswilanow.org

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Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations) Warsaw Montessori School Guided by trained specialists, students will be responsible for managing their household, operating small businesses, caring for local flora and fauna as well as domesticated animals, taking charge of the younger children and much more. “Adolescence Program” activities, integrated with academic studies, help students discover their inner strength to meet life’s real challenges. ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, warsawmontessori.edu.pl

Casa dei Bambini Warsaw Montessori School A leader in the field of Montessori education, well-trained teachers guide students to independent and successful learning with both English and bilingual classrooms provided. Located just steps from Lazienki Park, the school resides in vibrant surroundings near to museums, embassies and natural settings which provide students with learning outside the classroom. ul. Szwoleżerów 4 (grades 0-4), tel. 608 488 420; ul. Tatrzańska 5A (grades 5-8), tel. 604 137 826; ul.

Pytlasińskiego 13 (high school), tel. 787 095 835, wmf.edu.pl

The English Primary The English Primary is designed specifically for children in the primary education ages, just as children experience in England but in an international community. Pupils are taken through the key learning stages so that they can achieve to the best of their ability through a fun learning experience. The Core Curriculum subjects include English, Phonics, Science, Mathematics, French, PE and Swimming, Music, Personal, Social and Health Education. ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 784 037 808, tep.edu.pl

The Canadian School of Warsaw International Elementary and Middle School Located on two campuses in the Mokotów this is the only authorized IB School with PYP programs taught in English and Polish. French is taught as a third language. Offers a wide range of extra activities, a summer school, and employs a full time psychologist.

Provision is made for additional Polish and English support. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create the perfect learning environment. ul. Bełska 7, tel. 692 411 573 / 885 420 044, secretary@canadian-school.pl or secretary.olimpijska@canadian-school.pl

experiences. ul. Szwoleżerów 4, tel. 22 841 3908, warsawmontessori.edu.pl International Trilingual School of Warsaw Established in 1994, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve.

The fill-immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel.

501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/saint-exupery.pl

Monnet International School Located in Mokotów, the Monnett is the only school in Poland that implements the International Baccalaureate Program from kindergarten level all the way through to secondary school. The fully-qualified staff are committed to delivering only the highest standards of education. ul. Stępińska 13, tel. 22 852 06 08, maturamiedzynarodowa.pl

Warsaw Montessori School Focuses on the Montessori curriculum with an education based on the integration of conceptual learning and real-life

Willy Brandt Schule Warschau One of the city’s best renowned schools offers a kindergarten as well as primary and secondary education conducted to a German curriculum. Św.

Urszuli Ledóchowskiej 3, wbs.pl

adult learning Cup of Polish Personalized Polish classes adapted to meet your needs. Also home/company visits and online courses. For a free 60-minute trial email: kontakt@cupofpolish.com. cupofpolish.com

Frog Acclaimed language school aimed at all levels of competency. Flexible schedules and a history of working with foreigners make it one of the ‘go to’ choices for new arrivals wanting to polish their Polish. ul. Mazowiecka 12/24, frog.org.pl

Klub Dialogu Outstanding programs for foreigners living in Poland: a variety of courses aimed at every level. Using over ten years of experience, the leaning process becomes an adventure at Klub Dialogu. ul. Ordynacka 13/5, klubdialogu.pl

monnet international school

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antiques

amazing insight into the past. ul. Wilcza 29, kwadryga.com

Antykwariat Grochowski For the undisputed heavyweight of printed material, look for Antykwariat Grochowski, a maze-like space with over 130,000 books in its arsenal. Among the haul, find Polish comics such as Kapitan Kloss and Kajko i Kokosz, vinyl records, graphic art and old currency. Truly, it’s one of the wonders of right bank Warsaw. ul. Kickiego 12, agrochowski.pl Kolo What looks like a soggy tent city transforms each Sunday morning into a hopelessly addictive flea market offering wartime militaria, religious icons, chinaware, furniture from unverified periods of history, and even the occasional suit of armor. ul. Obozowa 99, gieldastaroci.waw.pl

Kwadryga Antique books, faded photographs, yellowing maps and dog-eared magazines – the atmosphere is timeless.

The PRL-era lifestyle magazines are an

Lapidarium Cavalry swords, pre-war Judaica, Orthodox icons, books, scrolls, helmets, cameras, chess sets, jewelry… The opportunities for rummaging are endless. ul. Nowomiejska 15/17, lapidarium.pl Prima Porta Antiquities At the top end of the scale the Germanrun Prima Porta specialize in pieces from ancient Rome, Greece, Egypt, Mesopotamia and Asia. ul. Hlonda 8, primaporta-antiquities.com

Fundacja Bęc Zmiana A small curiosity shop selling trendy trinkets and a fair amount of art and architecture books with an accent on modern Warsaw. ul. Mokotowska 65/7 Moda Na Czytanie Some brilliant Warsaw-focused coffee table books, as well a half-decent collection of English-language books that range from classics to contemporary fiction. ul. Bracka 25 Radio Telewizja Tinged with a retro 60s atmosphere, their offer isn’t just based around Polish and English-language reading material and extends further into quirky gifts. ul.

books

Andersa 29

Atticus You can smell the history in this old curiosity shop; this antiquarian bookstore has a rich stock of dusty tomes piled higgledy-piggledy on towering shelves.

English-language texts are also present and procurable in this hoarder’s heaven.

Super Salon Filled with beautiful titles, Super Salon dedicates itself to books, magazines and albums covering weighty subject matter such as photography, design, erotica and architecture. Represented publishers include Phaidon, Gestalten and Steidl. ul.

ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 12, atticus.pl

Chmielna 10, supersalon.org

The English speaking preschool and primary school invite you to:

THE ANNUAL CHRISTMAS FAIR 7 December 2019, 10:00 a.m. – 1:00 p.m.

TEP New Location Syta 78, Wilanow-Zawady

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!

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FASHION 303 Avenue Using top Italian and French fabrics, this family-owned fashion brand specialize in women’s apparel that crosses boundaries between causal and chic. In their portfolio discover oversized cashmere coats, skirts, sweaters and scarves, all of which fall on the cutting edge of style. ul.

Mokotowska 40/3, 303avenue.pl

online shopping, check: sklep.lollypop.pl

Beckham, Yves Salomon, Zimmermann.

Al. Jerozolimskie 169 lok 45A (C.H. Blue City, level 1), lollypop.pl

ul. Moliera 2, moliera2.com

LoveYa This upcoming Polish fashion brand aims itself at ‘women who value originality and like to play with styles and colors’.

Noted for their use of high-quality materials and fabrics, their founding tenets are based upon elegance, creativity and taste. ul. Mokotowska 46A, loveya.pl

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Brands: Beach Bunny, Buscemi, Canada Goose, Casadei, Christian Louboutin Men, Dsquared2, Fay, Gianvito Rossi, Hogan, Kenzo, Moncler, Mr & Mrs Italy, OTS, Ralph Lauren, Tod’s, Tom Ford, Tory Burch, Valentino, Yves Salomon. Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, plactrzechkrzyzy.com

Ania Kuczyńska Ania Kuczyńska is becoming well known for her highly fashionable, minimalist clothing designs. The store also carries adorable baby clothes and various accessories. ul. Mokotowska 61 Balthazar An atelier, boutique and private tailor with several unique brands. Book your meeting by calling tel. 535 545 728. Al. Rzeczypospolitej 18/68, balthazar.pl

Cafardini Complete suits start at zł. 2,600 and rise to zł. 4,500, depending on the fabric.

Using the finest natural raw materials, Cafardini even offer a ‘suit spa’ – a special care package that will see you suit regain its fresh look if it has been worn intensively. ul. Grzybowska 5A, cafardini.com

Chiara A solid assortment of Marc Jacobs and other top international designers such as Michael Kors and Jil Sander.ul.

Mokotowska 49 & Pl. Uni Lubelskiej, tel. 22 647 0394, chiara-online.pl

Just Paul Exuding confident femininity, this energetic brand is characterized by its light and unobtrusive elegance and sense of effortless nonchalance. Founded in 2012 by designers Justyna and Paula, Just Paul seeks to address the needs of the modern woman with its line in chic but casual clothing and more dazzly evening wear. ul. Mokotowska 61, justpaul.pl Lolly Pop Boutique Latest fashion from See by Chloe, Calvin Klein, Calvin Klein Jeans, Melissa, UnitedNude, Bronx and many more. For

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Lui Store Elegant female fashion store with brands including Attico, 3.1 Philip Lim, Les Coyottes de Paris, Jonathan Simkhai, as well as lesser-known names making their first in-roads into the world of high fashion. ul. Mokotowska 26, lui-store.com Maare On-trend Polish female fashion label with a flagship boutique on, it almost goes without saying, Mokotowska.

Known for their boho chic look and flowery dresses, the brand has fast gained a name for clothing that’s edgy and upmarket yet also highly affordable. ul. Mokotowska 46, maare.eu

Mandel Valuing traditional craftsmanship and the finest materials, Mandel’s mission is to add ‘a classy touch to every story’.

This they do with clothing suited to all occasions and every personality. ul. Nowogrodzka 18A, mandel-store.com

MMC Founded by Ilona Majer and Rafał Michalak, MMC have earned a name for unconventional designs manufactured using non-standard materials. ul. Żurawia 2, mmcstudio.pl

Moliera 2 Boutique Brands: Alexnadre Birman, Alexandre Vauthier, Aquazzura, Balmain, Beach Bunny, Burberry, Buscemi, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Cult Gaia, Francesco Russo, Gianvito Rossi, Golden Goose, Herve Leger, Isabel Marant, Kenzo, Maison Michel, Marc Jacobs, Manolo Blahnik, Moncler, OneTeaspoon, Self-Portrait, Tod’s, Tory Burch, Victoria

Reykjavik District Chic, well-cut menswear for all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal. ul. Burakowska 15, reykjavikdistrict.com

Risk. Made In Warsaw Mixing modern shapes with expert tailoring, the idea was to create a look that’s both comfortable yet chic. That they’ve been featured in the likes of Vogue and Elle suggests that this target has been accomplished. ul. Szpitalna 9 Safripsti Buying wholesale – meaning prices are kept in check – this fashion store presents finds like authentic cheerleader outfits and Hawaiian shirts for summer, not to mention a great selection of denim, parkers and so forth. ul. Oleandrów 3 Snobissimo Top labels from design houses like Jimmy Choo, Sonia Rykiel, Les Copains, Sergio Rossi etc., etc. With shoes and accessories all provided for, it’s a one-stop shop to re-boot your wardrobe. ul. Mokotowska 28

The Odder Side The Odder Side have grown from a cult brand to one of the most influential labels on the domestic fashion market.

Few do a better job when it comes to making simple sexy. ul. Koszykowa 5, Vitkac Poland’s first luxury department store gathers the world’s top designers under one roof, with brands including Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton, Stella McCartney, Stone Island and Rick Owens.

Vitkac, ul. Bracka 9, likusconceptstore.pl

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ODWIEDŹ MUZEUM POLIN DISCOVER POLIN MUSEUM polin.pl

ul. Anielewicza 6 00-157 Warszawa

HEALTH & BEAUTY gyms Artis Wellness Club Found in Royal Wilanów, this state-of-the-art gym boasts the latest technological advances in personal fitness, as well as a massive program of courses that range from group cycling and yoga to Zumba and body combat. ul. Klimczaka 1 (Royal Wilanów), artisclub.pl

Gravitan Set in Janki and Targówek, Gravitan features state-of-the-art equipment, group classes and numerous specialists ranging from trainers and physios to beauticians and dieticians.

panorama of the city and is almost worth the membership fee alone. Annual prices begin from around zł. 4,000. ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental), riverview.com.pl

spas & salons

63 (Hilton), Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), holmesplace.pl

2, pedicure-place.pl

hair & beauty Creamy Creamy Creative Cosmetics offering a wide range of cosmetics which are based mainly on the deeply nourishing Haitian Moringa Oil. Created by Zofia Pinchinat-Witucka, a Haitian-Pole whose life goal has been to bring the two countries closer, Creamy’s cosmetics are vegan and cruelty-free and do not contain any synthetic dyes nor fragrances, petroleum components, sulphates or silicones. ul. Chmielna 6 (Warsaw), creamy.pl

Pl. Szwedzki 3 & ul. Malborska 39, gravitan.pl

Holmes Place Swimming, sauna and steam room facilities are available, as are a varied timetable of classes plus personal training. ul. Grzybowska

The Pedicure Place A luxury pedi/manicure clinic with room for 10. All the latest OPI varnishes and over 200 colors guarantee you’ll find the latest in styling and nail care. ul. Pokorna

Fifth Avenue Originating in Dublin, Fifth Avenue specialize in luxurious facials, waxing, massages and treatments for the hands and feet. Using a range of OPI varnishes and creams specially created for them in Germany, they’ve become synonymous with top-class treatments. ul. Mokotowska

Barberian Academy & Barber Shop This standout has a rebel chic layout and barbers who are experts in their field. ul.

E. Plater 25 & ul. Koszykowa 9, barberian.pl

Bartek Janusz Salon The staff here takes a no-nonsense approach to cutting hair – it goes along with the minimalist chic interiors of the place. ul. Mokotowska 19 / ul. Wilcza 72, bartekjanusz.pl

BodyClinic Thorough body care for everyone. From the usual options to a huge variety of massages and some very exotic treatments, BodyClinic covers all the bases. ul. Oboźna 9 lok. 104, bodyclinic.pl

Dotyk SPA Probably the only place in Warsaw where you’ll get a facial yoga session.

Going further east, treat yourself to Japanese, Polynesian or Indian massage.

Biały Kamień 3, dotykspa.pl

49, fifthavenuewarszawa.pl

Little Gym Targeted at children, expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-to-child ratio, original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. ul. Bruzdowa 56, thelittlegym.pl

Quantum Fitness A place of quiet, understated luxury, equipment is state-of-the-art and complemented by expert trainers at the peak of their game. This is the full 24-carat gym experience. ul.

Piękna 15, quantumpiekna.pl

RiverView Wellness Centre Top-class facilities and equipment, private instructors and small classes. The view from the highest pool in Europe offers a glorious

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ouch!

DEPILACJA WOSKIEM

Ouch!

Experts in waxing, Ouch! aim their offer at ‘busy women looking for express treatments with lasting effects who, at the same time, appreciate a sense of intimacy’. ul. Belwederska 32, ouch.pl

PARDON MY FRENCH

manicure pedicure

Pardon My French Manicure and pedicure treatments with high quality lacquers and an awareness of global trends: if you need an endorsement, Paul McCartney visited when he was in Poland! ul. Belwederska 32; Bonifraterska 8; ul. Mokotowska 56, ul.

Wilcza 3 pardonmyfrench.pl

Ferajna Rated by many as the No. 1 barber shop in PL, this is a male grooming experience like no other – there’s even arcade games to wile away waiting time. ul.

Andersa 6, ferajna.pro

Fiuu Fiuu Day Spa A wonderful quick fix salon that makes use of the latest Ericson products and other top brands. Regarded as one of the top ladies day spas in the country. ul.

Mokotowska 48

Rostowski Barber Shop A true celebration of the vintage barber shop, Rostowski have the ambiance nailed to a tee thanks to a crew that’s ready for banter and an interior replete with jack-up chairs, glinting zinc and restored floor tiles. ul. Koszykowa 58, rostowskibarbershop.pl

Say Halo™ to your skin

Warsaw’s Holistic Clinic explores new boundaries with the latest technology…

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owadays, the active lifestyle we lead – whether it be engaging in sport or traveling abroad – often leads to earlier and more severe skin aging.

At the Holistic Clinic we’re active in searching for solutions that allow us to simultaneously enjoy our lifestyle choices whilst also maintaining a young and healthy appearance: life on the go no longer means aged skin. To meet this end, we’re proud to introduce the latest laser therapies, including Europe’s only Europe Joule™ X platform, which includes the Halo™ hybrid fractional laser.

Ablative fractional lasers have been known for their effectiveness for many years,

but whilst older generation lasers required a relatively long recovery time the Halo™ laser combines an ablative and non-ablative laser beam that can simultaneously act on the same therapeutic area to maximize the clinical effect while reducing recovery time. Revolutionary in every respect, for the first time ever users are able to enjoy amazing results within just four days.

Halo™ laser for the beautiful appearance of your skin This treatment primarily removes the symptoms of photoaging, smoothes the skin surface and narrows the enlarged pores.

Thanks to this, the skin regains its youthful glow. After the age of 25 the collagen resources in the skin begin to decrease, so it is worthwhile performing the Halo™ treatment as early as possible to prevent fine wrinkles and flabby skin.

A great way to fight discoloration Halo™ treatment in the fight against discoloration takes two fronts. First, superficial sun spots

from the surface of the skin are evaporated, then, deeper deposits are removed by the deep penetration of the dermis.

How to get even better results? - combined treatments

For the best effects, the Holistic Clinic offers combined treatments to their patients. The Joule™ X platform allows for therapy tailored to the needs of a patient’s skin. The variety of Joule™ X adaptors allows users to combine therapies that complement each other perfectly. We can offer a combination of Halo ™, ClearSilk™ and BBL™ to patients struggling with vascular skin problems and rosacea. If acne scars are a problem, we'll combine the Halo™ treatment with the Profractional™ laser.

If dealing with deep wrinkles, we suggest trying the Halo™ ContourTRL™ procedure. In turn, younger patients who want to act preventively and take care of their skin may opt for the Halo™ + Forever Young BBL™ combination.

Dr Agnieszka Bańka-Wrona: “Halo™ technology offers an innovative approach to skin care.

The treatment is comfortable, recovery times are short and the effects are fantastic. It’s universal enough that I recommend it to patients whose individual Smart Aging plan includes treatments to keep their skin in great condition for many years, as well as those who already have advanced signs of skin aging.”

Brought to you by:

Holistic Clinic ul. Racławicka 98, holisticclinic.pl tel. +22 100 62 26 / +48 603 482 484

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READY PLAYER ONE

Make the impossible possible only at VR project…

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ecome a sharp shooting space pirate, swim amid shipwrecks and whales, battle zombies, drive the world’s fastest cars or simply act the tough guy and save the world from alien hordes: these thrills and more await those who visit VR project, a hyper-modern VR center in the heart of Warsaw.

Touting the latest and best VR hardware known to mankind, we’ll take you to places where anything is possible: depending on your preference, find yourself diving the depths of the oceans, orbiting the earth or inside the human mind. In our center, anyone of any age can experience the impossible by using one of our four carefully designed VR stations equipped with HTC VIVE and OCCULUS RIFT S devices. You can also enjoy the best multiplayer games.

VR project can provide VR demonstrations at conferences, trade shows, company, outdoor and private events. Not only do we guarantee professional service, but also great fun and unique experiences that will leave you buzzing!

Find Us

VR project can be found in the underground passage leading from the M1 Świętokrzyska metro stop inside unit Number 1. For a map and directions, as well as details of our offer, check our website at: vrproject.com.pl

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Also immigration assistance, fine art shipping, pet transport and consulting services. ul. Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 8160, moveonerelo.com

looking back

THOSE WERE THE DAYS Highs and lows from Warsaw’s year…

Fine dining is dead! Or so read the obituaries prematurely penned by flocks of foodies. What they didn’t anticipate was the successful openings of Epoka and Szóstka and the induction of Wojciech Amaro (Atelier Amaro) into the World’s Top 100 Chefs. If you call that death, then the afterlife is great.

The idea sounded fab: take an ugly city center car park and temporarily turn it into a verdant, vibrant summer chillout zone. Instead, what we got was an ‘asphalt desert’ scattered with plant pots and crates – not the best use of zł. 920,000. Even the staunchest fans of City Hall would admit that Pl. Bankowy’s ‘strefa relaksu’ was a PR catastrophe.

On the subject of gaffes, the National Museum’s removal of an artwork featuring a woman suggestively eating a banana was met with international ridicule after the museum’s head declared he was “opposed to showing works that could irritate vulnerable young people”. Not since the Teletubbies were accused of spreading sexual deviancy have Poland watchers sniggered so hard.

A masterstroke of creativity, the summer’s outdoor Lunapark was the most imaginative F&B concept that Poland’s ever seen. Inspired by Coney Island

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aesthetics (and, possibly, a night spent experimenting with acid), it was a mind-boggling demonstration of the new Warsaw spirit.

Not for the first time, it looks like we’ve all been fooled by architectural renderings that have flattered to deceive. In the latest instance, a collective gasp could be heard when workers removed scaffolding to reveal the rebuilt Rotunda in the center of the city. Looking more like a shower tub than the ‘modern, urban lounge’ we’d been promised, it appears we’ve traded a genuine landmark for a clumsy version of the original.

They were meant to be cheap, fun and convenient; instead, the city’s scooter plague has become one of the biggest nuisances the city’s seen this century. Ridden at top speed by hooting morons before being ditched to cause maximum aggravation, they’ve become a Frankenstein’s monster and the curse of the sidewalk.

Gosh, how exciting: Wola just gets better and better, growing upwards at new unforeseen rates. Once a picture of post-war decline, seeing it develop into the thriving new heart of the city is like watching history in the making.

And on the subject of history, how cool has it been to see Warsaw’s abandoned factories, fortresses, power plants and market halls being returned back to life in modern, new guises. Hot on the heels of Koszyki, Koneser, Fort 8 and Elektrownia Powisłe, more are on the way. Just leave Hala Mirowska exactly as it is – she’s good enough already.

SHUTTERSTOCK

Nice work AKS ZŁY: four seasons after being founded in a murky Praga pub, the country’s only ‘democratic football club’ didn’t just earn their first promotion in history, but also found themselves named Europe’s “best grassroots club” by UEFA. Preaching a message of tolerance and social cohesion, the sky’s the limit for this community club.