Warsaw Insider January 2019 #269

Warsaw The Capital’s Original City Magazine Since 1996

JANUARY 2019

269 01/2019

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Vintage Warsaw Travel: Winter Chill Out Smog Wars Interview: Ryszard Kaja

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editorial INFRONT

Editor-in-chief Alex Webber

4 News 8 Documentary:

insider@warsawinsider.pl Art Director Kevin Demaria insider@warsawinsider.pl

Smog Wars 14 Poster Art: Interview: Ryszard Kaja

Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com Contributors: Stuart Dowell Maria Mileńko Michał Miszkurka Ed Wight

FEATURES

8 Vintage 1 Warsaw 2 6 Travel: Feel-good Escapes

Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com

EAT!

33 Review:

Udon Noodle Bar 34 Review: Prosciutteria 36 Review: Kura

DRINK!

65 Review:

Kawiarnia Kawałek 66 Review:

BackRoom Warsaw

JANUARY 2019

ey Account Manager K Agata Sicińska asicinska@valkea.com

S

o, here we go again. Seen in the brutal, blue light of a January morning, the Warsaw of Christmas feels a long way away. The hardest month of all, it’s not easy to feel inspired under these sad, smoggy skies. But that’s not stopped Jonathan L. Ramsey. Moved into action by these long months of murk, we’ve used this issue to speak to the filmmaker about his acclaimed documentary, Smog Wars. Beyond the gloom, we’ve sat down with Ryszard Kaja, the artist that’s pushed Polish poster art into dynamic new directions, explored the vintage side of Warsaw and happened upon a photography institute that’s quite like no other. Dovetailing all that, we bring you the most impartial rundown of bars and restaurants that you’ll find in the city. Hope you enjoy it, and see ya’ next month.

ey Account Manager K Joanna Chmielewska jchmielewska@valkea.com ey Account Manager K Karolina Zielonka kzielonka@valkea.com Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com Subscription 12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland.

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Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

on the cover Christmas never died – at least, not in Old Town. Running through January, relive the magic of Christmas and check into the square’s ice rink. (Illustration by Michał Miszkurka)

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VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies. All information ©2019 Warsaw Insider.

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Instytut Fotografii Fort 84 InList 86 Museums 101 Essentials 102 Map 104 Looking Back

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NEWS

Forming one of the original cornerstones of the Ściana Wschodnia (the communist era concrete complex stretching from Świętokrzyska to Jerozolimskie), the Zodiak pavilion reopened in December following years of neglect. Restored to its full glory, what was the city’s first ‘fast food’-style bar has been rebooted to serve as a place of ‘architectural dialogue’ with the ground floor given over to inter-changing exhibitions focused on the Warsaw of tomorrow. Promoted as an ‘incubator for ideas relating to the future of the capital’, a café is due to be added in the coming months to further encourage everyday members of the public to take an interest in the city that they live in. Originally dating back to 1968, the careful revamp of Zodiak includes a remake of the neon that once crowned the building, a snazzy mosaic called Kosmos (inspired by the original crafted by Maria Leszczyńska), and a ‘suspended staircase’ connecting all three floors.

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KEVIN DEMARIA

SIGNS OF THE… ZODIAK

News Out With A Bang The organizer of Poland’s biggest public fundraiser, WOŚP, has won purr-raise from animal lovers across the country after announcing that the event’s closing concert – to be held on January 13th outside the Palace of Culture – will for the first time ever be free from fireworks. Writing on his Facebook profile, Jurek Owsiak declared that the traditional finale would be replaced in favor of an equally fiery but more pet-friendly spectacle.

The news has left traditionalists aghast, especially so soon after Warsaw’s mayor broke conservative hearts by declaring that the city’s official New Year’s Eve celebrations would also see fireworks replaced by lasers.

Squaring Up Rafał Traszkowski, the new mayor of Warsaw, has kicked-off his tenure by fanning rumors that a controversial monument commemorating the 2010 Smolensk air crash could yet be removed should a judicial review allow for a public referendum. Unveiled last year, the memorial was installed against the wishes of City Hall after the ruling populist government, PiS, claimed control of Pl. Piłsudskiego. Since then, they’ve further infuriated the more liberal city authorities by adding a monument to their deceased former leader, himself killed in the Smolensk disaster. Dubbed ‘the stairway to heaven’ by its many critics, the storm surrounding the monument – and the square itself – has served to further spotlight the bitter division between the government and the capital.

Floods, fires, unexploded WWII bombs and a ‘runaway ghost train’ are all experiences that workers on Warsaw’s second metro line have had to deal with, and now added to that list are prehistoric beasts. The start of December saw work on Płocka station temporarily suspended after engineers uncovered a seventon pelvic bone measuring four-and-a-half meters sitting in what had been earmarked to serve as part of the future ventilation system.

While analysts are still working to establish exactly to which specie the bones once belonged to, the odds have shortened on them being a 120,000-year-old mammoth.

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SHUTTERSTOCK (3)

Mammoth Find

Killing Me Softly

Warsaw-based filmmaker Jonathan L. Ramsey discusses Smog Wars, his acclaimed documentary about Poland’s silent killer…

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T

he backdrop is ideal. Early Friday morning, and Powiśle is bathed in murk and muck; what better conditions for the conversation in hand?

“Don’t think of me as some kind of environmentalist,” says Jonathan, “two years ago I didn’t know anything about smog. I’m not one of those people you would label an ‘Activist’.”

Yet despite these protestations, that’s precisely what some would say he has become. Whether by accident or design, the 32-year-old Chicagoan is now regarded as one of the louder voices in the capital’s fight against air pollution. The filmmaker’s third project, Smog Wars, aired to 395,000 people on TVN24 in December, and it has already screened theatrically across many of Poland’s major cities. It has been hailed as essential viewing by those seeking a better understanding of the environmental crisis that has the nation in its chokehold.

“I wanted the film to be understandable to anyone over the age of 13,” says Jonathan, “and while there’s a need to relay facts and figures, the goal was to avoid getting overly scientific. If you want people to care about a problem, they have to understand it first. So the film had to be something people could relate to.”

The facts Jonathan speaks of are startling. According to respected scientists, 15 million working days are lost every year in Poland due to issues related to air pollution; further, analysts attributed 50,000 premature deaths per annum to causes linked to the very same problem. Alarmingly, the bad news doesn’t end there. A respected pulmonologist appears in the film stating that 54% of school-age children in Kraków – a smog hotspot – are suffering from either asthma or allergies. It’s a staggering number which professionals believe is correlated with higher exposure to air pollution.

“This isn’t a cheerful film,” admits Jonathan with a hint of wry understatement, “but I hope that it moves people to action. This isn’t an occasional problem we’re talking about, and this year it’s been even worse than last year. In 2018 smog levels in Warsaw exceeded the standard set by the European Union on 35% of days. Just think about that – a third of the time you’re sending your kids out to school they’re breathing air that’s harmful! It’s not my intention to scare people, but I want them to concede that we really have an urgent issue.”

A beast of many heads, educating viewers about the root causes of smog is at the core of the documentary’s purpose. “We’re dealing with an incredibly complex problem,” says Jonathan, “It’s not the result of one thing, but rather the result of many factors that all interconnect.” The illegal removal of particulate filters on diesel cars is a case in point: individual citizens and car mechanics make the choice to commit this criminal act, but it’s the job of the police and govern-

PRODUCTION STILL

Film Documentary

Film Documentary A beast of many heads, educating viewers about the root causes of smog is at the core of the documentary’s purpose ment to enforce the regulations which prohibit people from doing it. “Since the problem is so widespread, it seems to me that everyone shares some guilt except our children, of course.”

Watching the film, the multi-faceted nature of the situation soon becomes apparent. “On an individual level, we can blame people who burn garbage or drive high-emitting vehicles ,” continues Jonathan, “but there are many others who simply can’t afford more efficient heating solutions. They need government help in order to make the changes required to clean the air.

We’ve got about 20,000 old-standard coal furnaces currently operating in Warsaw, and the city is only replacing around 400 of these per year – that’s a drop in the bucket. Higher up, there’s the national government: for things to change significantly, there needs to be a massive overhaul of energy infrastructure, which is impossible when you have a ruling party so tied to the coal industry. We really need a big, collective government action – why can’t they apply the same enthusiasm to solving the smog problem as they do to building a new mega-airport?

You have to ask, where do the priorities lie?”

Tangling matters yet more is the world of big business. “Much of the conversation,” says Jonathan, “has been hijacked by large corporations who refuse to stand up to the government and are directly profiting from

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pollution whilst simultaneously cultivating a caring public image. There’s a lot of hypocrisy out there, and I think many Poles are right to be cynical about whether the problem will be solved. But at the end of the day, if you ask who the buck stops with, it’s with everyone.”

Combined with apathy, greed, poverty, economic reality and self-serving interests is another key factor that muddies the waters: weather. On windy days, harmful particles are dispersed faster preventing smog from building up. “It’s crucially important to remember,” says Jonathan, “a city’s smog figures are highly dependent on the weather. So if we have strong winds, people won’t experience the problem as much, and on less windy days the politicians can blame the smog on the weather. But since we can’t control the weather, what needs to change is our level of emissions.”

Sensitive in delivery, beautiful in imagery and hard-hitting in impact, the documentary leaves no doubt as to the Herculean efforts required if Poland’s smog monster is to be defeated. Even so, the filmmaker is at pains to point out that his seminal work to date isn’t perceived as a sly stab at Warsaw. “I love this city,” he adds, “I’ve lived here for eight years and this isn’t a hit job.

Sometimes though, you need to look at yourself in the mirror and be critical of your faults. We’re always being told to ‘fall in love with Warsaw’, but that

shouldn’t mean we can’t talk about the ugly bits as well.”

Conceived in conjunction with producer and protagonist Michał Konopa, the idea for a film about smog came to fruit following a casual conversation regarding Jonathan’s next project.

With Michał’s son an asthmatic who has endured breathing difficulties in recent winters, and Jonathan himself a new father, air pollution soon became a subject that was close to their hearts.

Donating hundreds of hours of their own free time and personal funds, what followed next became a personal crusade.

“We’re not experts,” states Jonathan, “and we’re not offering answers.

No one paid us to make this movie, and we’re not associated with any corporations or the government or any environmental groups. Our mission was to present the full scope of issues as told by real people – as such, I’d like to think we’ve come up with an urgent documentary that provokes discussion. For too long, the subject has been sugarcoated, and while I think the overwhelming majority couldn’t care less about air pollution, we’ve noticed that when people change their minds about it they then go completely in the other direction and become crazy about it! If our film flips that switch inside people, then I think it’s been worthwhile.”

WATCH IT!

Smog Wars premiered at the New Earth International Film Festival in Kraków where it was awarded Third Prize in the feature-length documentary category. Available in both English and Polish versions, viewers can rent (zł. 10) or buy (zł. 50) the film online: vimeo.com/ondemand/ smogwarsdocumentary

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EXUMAGYM

Poster Art

The Art Of Poster

A former stage designer of great prestige, Ryszard Kaja has since found a second life as one of the country’s best-selling poster artists. Here, he talks about his ‘Poland’ series, a critically acclaimed collection of over 120 tourist-style posters that have taken the nation by storm...

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The series has been incredibly successful – can you explain why people fell in love with these posters?

I don’t know, I really don’t. Success like that really helps build your selfesteem, but I’m aware that exaggerated popularity is not flattery at all. A painter is a person who paints what he sells. An artists is a person who sells what he paints. Being too popular should make you feel uneasy because it becomes vulgar. This success, however, is nice because posters, unlike paintings, are made to order, and are aimed at a specific audience. That’s why a poster for a light operetta is different than for a Shakespeare play... well, it should be different anyway. But you have to make sure that you don’t get carried away. Rather, you should treat it as an opportunity to take on a new challenge. The tourist poster had died and I resuscitated it a bit unknowingly. I probably also met a need as it turned out that it was not just me who had missed it. The series is simple, sincere and has no pretensions to > > >

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF THE ARTIST

WI: From where did the idea for your ‘Poland’ poster series arise?

RK: Sometimes, something pops up in my head, knocks a couple of times and slowly crystallizes and it’s hard to say why. Let me think about it... it definitely comes from some of my interests. I’ve always liked traveling and discovering new places. When I was a child, I traveled around the country a lot with my parents; we had a beige Syrenka and we would drive along side roads throughout the country, stopping at the most beautiful places, sometimes completely unknown. I’ve always been fascinated by surprisingly different places. I’ve never understood tourist resorts where you travel hundreds and thousands of miles to land in a place that’s a luxurious copy of the one that you just left behind. The idea behind this series was probably also influenced by the fact that I had just left the theatre behind and a fascination with posters had grown inside me. It’s good to try something new to avoiding falling into a rut. If I had gotten into woodcutting I would probably have created a series of woodcuts; as it was I created a series of posters.

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Poster Art being great art. Now, a lot of people are copying me and there are loads of posters about Poland, but they are often just nice, rustic pictures without content. I like it when a poster contains an idea. A tourism poster should encourage people to visit a specific place, but I didn’t want to embellish reality; I choose topics carefully and meticulously. Today, patriotism is visible in very loud and aggressive slogans: eagles on black T-shirts and fluttering flags. I paint oilcloths, pickled cucumbers, meadows, farms, fountains, blocks in Ursynów and little appreciated scenes of modernity. It’s a world seemingly not very impressive and certainly not flashy, but it quickly turned out that my fascination with the usual struck a chord.

Your passion for Poland shines through in this series – from a personal point of view, what do you madly love about Poland?

Our normalness. I don’t try to paint this country as being more beautiful than it is. I know what our vices are, and they can be very irritating at

These are posters that talk about our culture, our traditions and our truly inspiring nature, and about our pluses and minuses times. I will answer using the example of beach windbreaks. All sorts of celebrities, especially those from the television with grotesquely stretched skin over their faces, curse these windbreaks, laugh at them and vilify them, virtue signaling how worldly they are. However, I thought that the Baltic Sea is not the Caribbean, it can be cold and windy and a windbreak makes sense, and I’m not at all sure that our windbreaks look worse than Caribbean umbrellas. I like this fluttering chaos of patterns, it is peculiar to us so why be ashamed of it? I have a weakness for this kitsch. So, I look

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For more on Ryszard and his work, see: ryszardkaja.pl

at all these disdained stereotypical Poles known colloquially as ‘Janusz’ and ‘Grażynka’, marveling only that they have been baptized with these ridiculing names by the richest Poles. It’s puzzling, isn’t it? The older I get, I feel that I’m aging faster than others, and the fatter I get, the more understanding I am, maybe because I have traveled the world over and over.

In this poster series, I try to talk about ordinary places and demonstrate their unusual and little-known highlights.

The choice of place is also very important in this series, which is why I chose Szczebrzeszyn: essentially, to be able to mention the swishing sounds of the Polish language. These are posters that talk about our culture, our traditions and our truly inspiring nature, and about our pluses and minuses, about what is successful and what is less successful but still ours.

What are your early memories of Polish posters? Was it a magical world for you?

Finally, a question that’s easy to answer! I grew up among posters, so the poster was something ordinary, it was part of my childhood home as my father created them. Not so long ago, the National Museum in Poznań held a great retrospective exhibition of his work on the 30th anniversary of his death. Do I have favorite artists?

I’ve got loads. Among those who don’t create posters, I love Hrabal’s work, I read Kapuściński avidly, I love Hockney, Persian miniatures, Schultz, Klee, Chagall and Russian constructivists, and almost all paintings from the late Middle Ages. I could go on for hours.

As for poster artists, I’d first mention Jan Lenica. He was one of the few who managed to break free from the claws of the poster and through posters became a great artist. Also, I admire Tadanori Yokoo – he best reflects the chaos of today. I’ll also admit that in my longing for the integrity of dreams, I also like hand-painted large Bollywood movie posters and monstrous works from Ghana.

As an artist, what inspires you?

Hmm... everything inspires me. I wander around the world and I look, > > >

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Poster Art I like to look closely at the details, but I like places that smell of honesty, hence my fascination with kitsch.

There is a lot of heart in kitsch. I’m not talking about cheap, trashy flashiness, rather about what is created with great commitment, even if talent is missing. I’m also fascinated by everyday life, the trivial, the things that don’t shine, and I like other worlds. The ‘other’ fascinates and intrigues me.

What makes a good poster?

I don’t know, I really don’t. Even if I knew the secret recipe, I’m not sure I could be tempted to create work that was only considered good? But because I don’t know, I can stay in my own world. Sometimes I sit on the jury of some competition. I look at the hundreds of posters and there is indeed something that is definitely better than others, but I don’t know why. There are no rules, or at least if there are I don’t know them.

I’m also fascinated by everyday life, the trivial, the things that don’t shine, and I like other worlds. The ‘other’ fascinates and intrigues me How would you describe your style?

[Laughs] Maybe KAIZM? I don’t follow fashion, I swim against the tide.

That’s how it was with stage design.

When I was designing sets, minimalist architectural decorations began to be fashionable, but I stuck stubbornly to painted decoration. So now, when the fashion is for abstract posters with text so deformed that it is almost illegible, where the letter becomes an intriguing ornament, I still stick to my painted or graphic works, because that’s who I am, that’s where I come from and I won’t change just because something else is fashionable. Minimalism is fashionable but so what. I am a eulogist of the baroque world, a eulogist of unusual normality.

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For more on Ryszard and his work, see: ryszardkaja.pl

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VINTAGE WARSAW

A VINTAGE YEAR Unleash your inner treasure hunter this January to seek out the pre-loved gems that give the capital a vintage swagger...

P L A Y… T H E G A M E ‘Great bars of Poland’, Case File No. 254: Gram (see Nightlife for contact deets). Tricked out to look like a circus Big Top (read: parachuting chimps hanging from red and yellow stripey ceilings!), this minute bar taps into the post-hipster ideals of fun by handing precious space to zany arcade machines such as Pac-Man and Space Invaders, an Atari console and a pinball machine. There might be more, but we struggle to remember – you will as well after digging into their fridge of craft beer.

BE… THE PINBALL WIZARD

R E S E T… Y O U R L I F E Though you wouldn’t count Reset (sklep. resetpoint.pl) as vintage in the traditional sense, the influence of the golden years of Polish design is never far away. Pluck through everything from retro screen prints to the kind of handle-less cups made famous by Poland’s milk bars.

Stashed amid these, find gems such as pre-war German SABA radios repurposed as bedside tables, classic circus posters and 50s tea sets.

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ALL PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA EXCEPT TOP LEFT COURTESY OF GRAM

An unruly riot of beeps and flashes and jolly jingles, Pinball Station (pinballstation.pl) presents fifty plus machines from the pre-digital age.

Can you touch them? Yes, yes and yes!

For a flat rate of zł. 30, visitors can spend as much time as they have testing their skills on classics such as Dirty Harry, Buck Rogers and Revenge From Mars.

K E E P Y O U R S E L F… POSTERED Originally a mathematician by profession, Włodek Orzeł supplemented his income during the Cold War era through the private sale of posters that he had snapped up abroad. Come 1989, and the budding collector jacked in the day job to pursue his passion. Regarded as one of the country’s foremost poster authorities, visit his stand inside the BUW library (polskiplakat.link2.pl) to browse and buy selected nuggets from his vast collection (latest estimate: 300,000 and counting!). Of course, there are other choices, and the Polish Poster Gallery (poster.com.pl) in Old Town nails every angle possible with a choice of Warsaw-related art from prewar till current day, Solidarity posters, and magic 90s efforts advertising the Satyrykon competition. Being there is a pleasure.

POP INTO… A POP-UP Cool points are easy to come by when you have a Vodka Museum and Google Campus onsite, but other initiatives have also given the Koneser development a special air of magic. For instance, the TRŁ Pop-Up Store (targirzeczyladnych.pl) run by Targi Rzeczy Ładnych (The Fair of Nice Things): showcasing the best of Polish design, find graphics, furnishings, fabrics, ceramics, fixtures and fittings – many clearly inspired by the aesthetics of 50s, 60s and 70s Poland.

G O O F F… T H E W A L L How’s this then for a weird design fetish: throughout the sixties and seventies the people of Warsaw went utterly bonkers and went through a phase of cladding buildings with porcelain waste retrieved from factories. Examples of this odd phenomenon are rife around town: Belgisjka 9, for instance, finds its walls rendered from crockery. Not to be outdone, residents of Etiudy Rewolucyjnej 9 went one better and chose toilet seats instead.

>>>

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VINTAGE WARSAW F O R G E T… T H E R E M A K E Don’t settle for second best. At a time when Hollywood is busying itself butchering the classics with shoddy, dismal remakes, hit up Kino Iluzjon (iluzjon.fn.org.pl) to watch the golden oldies. January’s schedule had yet to be revealed at press time, but for a flavor of what you can expect then bear in mind that the month just gone saw screenings of Singing In The Rain, Belle De Jour and Whatever Happened To Baby Jane? Opened in 1956, and since beautifully restored in 2012, this remarkable cinema backs up its repertoire with a brilliant atmosphere that takes you through the mists of time. First designed in Socialist Realist form, the building’s incorporation into the Register of Monuments says much for its importance on the cultural landscape. In keeping with their earnest ambitions, don’t expect popcorn or any multiplex frills.

S K AT E … O R D I E Get groovy at Wrotkarnia (wrotkarnia. com), a ‘roller disco’ inspired by the seventies and eighties. Usually held on Saturday evenings – though check ahead to avoid disappointment – discos feature cheesy evenings with themes such as ‘Summer Hits’, ‘Back To The 80s’ or ‘Disco Polo’. Skate rental available on-site, as are instructors should your skills be a little rusty.

No sane vintage feature would be complete without mentioning cars.

Immerse yourself in a different age by visiting the greasy, oily Motoring Museum (muzeum-motoryzacji.com.pl) in Otrębusy. Home to over 300 vehicles, displays include a 1930s Polish-produced Buick, WWII trucks and tanks, a Ford Thunderbird and Buick Skylark. From behind the Iron Curtain, car boffins will go bananas over the Russian-made Volgas, John Paul II’s Pope Mobile, and domestic classics such as the Syrena 104 – you can positively smell the history. Back in town, why not rent a vintage PRL era banger from Adventure Warsaw (adventurewarsaw.com). From Ikarus buses to Syrenas, they’ve got it covered.

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PHOTOGRAPHS FROM TOP: COURTESY OF ILUZJON, SHUTTERSTOCK (2)

KICK… THE WHEELS

GOODBYE… LENIN Or, is it hello? Closed in December, those at the Czar PRL Muzeum (czarprl.pl) are working round the clock to reopen in mid-January in time for the anniversary of Warsaw’s liberation by the Red Army. An extraordinary collection of memorabilia from Cold War Poland awaits: everyday items rescued from the owner’s family’s basement (“including a potato peeler my dad stole when he was a teenage rascal,” laughs Rafał, the founder), a Saturator soda machine, propaganda materials, a telephone box left discarded in a field, as well as new attractions such as a 50s-style café. A remarkable paean to the time, mark this down as being totally unmissable!

CLICK… AND BUY

PHOTOGRAPHS FROM TOP: COURTESY OF ŁADNE VINTAGE, ED WIGHT, COURTESY OF VINTAGE STORE

Sourcing her items from bazars and other ‘mysterious places’, the owner of Ładne (ladnevintage.pl), Agnieszka Konopczyńska, invites curiosity seekers to arrange a meeting in her storage space in Grochów or to click and buy online.

Retailing domestic and international items for house and home, find a comprehensive choice of glass, ceramics and porcelain to lend your life some vintage flourish. “First impressions are important to me,” says Agnieszka, “I only stock things that are interesting, have a purpose and that I actually like myself. As for vintage, for me its appeal lies in the fact that we harness existing resources without harming the environment – I don’t respect waste or consumerism. And, on a personal level, the treasure hunting aspect is really quite addictive – you never know what you might find!”

STRIKE… A POSE Hailed by many as the best vintage clothing store in Warsaw (nay, Poland!), the aptly-titled Vintage Store (vintagestore.pl) concentrates on quality, original finds from the likes of Barbour, Moschino and Aquascutum. But the specialty, that’s the clothing of Thierry Mugler, with the star discovery of 2018 being a gold jacquard jacket dating from the 90s. “Vintage clothing is very personal,” says co-owner Kasia, “it reflects a person’s soul.” Looking around Vintage Store, you’re liable to agree.

>>>

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VINTAGE WARSAW S N A P… T O I T Prowl Hala Mirowska to discover the intriguing world of Foto-Larson.

Warsaw’s No. 1 home for all things analogue, this labor of love is run by a bona fide obsessive with an intimate knowledge of all the cameras and contraptions that he has on offer.

Beautiful in every respect, it’s the kind of store that’ll inspire you to kick digital into touch and return to the darkroom.

D R I N K … I N T H E PA S T

H E Y… J O E Operating since 1991, the phrase “three’s a crowd” takes on a new meaning entering the Hey Joe record store (fb.com/sklepHeyJoe): we haven’t measured, but there can’t be much beyond 70 centimeters between the barred windows and the shelves. The confined, claustrophobic space makes for a uniquely personal experience, with the owner always on hand to offer his quite encyclopedic advice. There’s not a genre he doesn’t seem to cover, though rare Polish vinyl is a particular specialty. This place is legendary!

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PHOTOGRAPHS FROM TOP: COURTESY OF FOTO-LARSON, KEVIN DEMARIA, COURTESY OF CERAMICZNA

Unless you already live out there, you’re probably going to need a very good reason to visit Tarchomin.

Ceramiczna is it (fb.com/ceramicznacafebar). A strong candidate for our favorite interior in town, the design references the halcyon times of vintage design in a way that feels fresh and thrilling. It helps, too, that the coffee is outstanding. It’s a long way from the center, but you’ll want to stay here for hours.

ADMIRE… AESTHETICS Vintage fans, you’ve hit the motherlode at the Gallery of Polish Design. Opened at the end of 2017, the most recent permanent gallery at the National Museum in Warsaw (mnw.art.pl) showcases a bamboozling array of objects to give the full 360 view of Polish 20th century applied arts. Logically organized following a chronological timeline, star pieces range from the Kowalski Wall Unit (as seen in practically every Polish apartment from the 60s onwards) to Teresa Kruszewska’s iconic 1973 ‘tulip armchair’. The smaller items are equally compelling: a 1960s Bambino phonograph, a wood-wire Dachshund toy rolled out just after the war, and a hilariously flimsy travel iron from 1975. Pre-dating communism, striking examples of the country’s design pedigree are numerous, the highlight arguably being a stunning tubular lounge chair by Bohdan Lachert (who would later achieve cult status for designing the Brave New World that was the Muranów housing estate).

B U Y… T H E B O O K

PHOTOGRAPHS FROM TOP: KEVIN DEMARIA, BARTOSZ BAJERSKI /DESIGN GALLERY IN THE POLISH NATIONAL MUSEUM IN WARSAW, ED WIGHT

There’s a few zillion places in which you’ll find vintage printed material, but some out-punch the others. For the undisputed heavyweight, look for Antykwariat Grochowski (agrochowski. pl), a maze-like space with over 130,000 books in its arsenal. Among the haul, find Polish comics such as Kapitan Kloss and Kajko i Kokosz, vinyl records, graphic art and old currency. Truly, it’s one of the wonders of right bank Warsaw. Back on the left side, the Insider just loves Naukowy Kosmos (wankosmos.pl). Proudly patriotic, the collection is filled with dog-eared Polish magazines, bygone TV guides from PRL times, heavy pre-war tomes, enigmatic postcards, stamps, sports albums, city maps, etc. You name it.

CHOO… CHOOSE ME Pleasingly antiquated and old school in both design and execution, the Stacja Muzeum (stacjamuzeum.pl) is a joyous romp through the days of vintage train travel. Inside, find 200 scale models of locomotives and steam engines, some beautifully detailed model villages and all kinds of train related ephemera: clocks, timetables, uniforms, etc.

Outside is where the real anoraks head though, namely to clamber over fifty trains and carriages in various stages of life. Top billing goes to a 1942 German armored artillery train, and the walnutclad personal wagon once used by Poland’s first post-war leader, Bolesław Bierut.

>>>

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VINTAGE WARSAW GO… WITH THE GLOW Despite the disappointingly mainstream direction taken by the Soho Factory, one address continues to shine above all others – and in this case, literally.

Opened in 2012, the Neon Muzeum (neonmuzeum.org) can count itself as Warsaw’s hippest attraction with dozens of signs that were created during Poland’s neon boom of the 60s and 70s personally salvaged from the scrapheap by photographer Ilona Karwinska. Part of a crafty communist ambition to align socialist beliefs with consumerism, the government’s decision to ‘neon-ize’ the country offered a ray of light to ordinary Poles living in deprivation. Now, these old signs – restored to their twinkly best – are pure Instagram porn.

Collaborating with a core group of expert craftsmen, the stylish pieces at Future Antiques (futureantiques.eu) utilize artisanal techniques to return items to their fullest aesthetic potential. Though much of their furniture is sourced from Stockholm, Bordeaux and cities known for their midcentury design, it’s Copenhagen that holds the biggest fascination.

C H E C K O U T… THE NEW LADY Make an impact by revising your look at New Lady In Town (fb.com/newladyintown). Inspired by the 8os Polish punk scene and a mélange of other subcultures, this is where, in there words, “Dynasty is mixed with Salt-N-Pepa and Madonna is besties with Biggie Smalls.”

They really mean it, as well.

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PHOTOGRAPHS FROM TOP, SOBIESŁAW SZUMSKI, ED WIGHT, COURTEST OF NEW LADY IN TOWN

TOUCH… THE FUTURE

TRAVEL FEEL-GOOD ESCAPES

Warm Up, Chill Out

Realign the soul this January with a winter break to soothe the senses…

PAŁAC OSOWA SIEŃ

Inspired by the great hunting castles of Germany’s past, this 19th century palace presents itself in a fairy tale flurry of turrets, towers and pointy little features. Inside, scrubbed wooden flooring and a dove white color scheme lend a celestial glow to the corridors and chambers, with each nook and doorway divulging new surprises: a wine chamber, a recently revived ballroom, suites themed around the works of novelist Leonie Ossowski (herself a former resident), and a beautiful living room that’s the very epitome of the good country life. Subject to a loving renovation courtesy of its vivacious Canadian owners, Osowa Sień is remarkable for the mood it engenders. Serene and holistic yet a little eccentric, few boutique stays out-magic this palace. To appreciate it at its January best, think: books, wine, fireplace.

Osowa Sień, 420 km east of Warsaw Suites from zł. 250 per night, palacosowasien.com

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DOM NAD ŹRÓDŁAMI

You could use Dom nad Źródłami for a Bond film, a Vogue shoot or simply to enjoy the escape of your life. Perched on a wooded hill on the fringes of the Krzczonowski Landscape Park, find a house of solid stone rising grandly from the blue, winter fog. A triumph of minimalist, contemporary architecture, all has been seemingly designed to unclutter the mind.

What do visitors get up to? Typically, toast themselves in the sauna, take icy plunges in the river outside, liberate their spirit by practicing yoga or stare out the windows thinking brilliant ideas. Here, great things can happen.

Wygnanowice, 215 km south-east of Warsaw Whole house from zł. 800 per night (min. two nights), domnadzrodlami.pl

TATRA GLAMP

Consider a stay at Tatra Glamp as a personal gift to yourself.

Ensconced within the womblike warmth of your luxury yurt, the temptation is to huddle on an armchair watching the stars come to life, or to bury yourself under a duvet and block out the world. In a nutshell, it’s the living embodiment of the concept of hygge. Then, come daylight, watch the forested peaks of the Tatra mountains emerge from the morning mist whilst the distant calls of nature break the sound of silence. Too reclusive? Head 500-meters to find the nearest ski lift.

Bukowina Tatrzańska, 415 km south of Warsaw Lodgings from zł. 425 per night (min. three nights), fb.com/ tatraglamp

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Sp Par ot tne lig r ht

Krem Of The Crop

Whether for breakfast, coffee or wine, at Krem we fill all the roles you wish for. Serving comfort food with a delectable French accent, feel invited to start your day with a generous Croque Madame. As the day gets darker, reserve your evening to share melted cheeses or to take long, languid sips of our natural wine.

Krem ul. Śniadeckich 18

NEWSFLASH! Farewell Salto! Regarded as one of the leading fine dining restaurants in the country, Salto finally closed their doors at the end of December as a result of the ongoing expansion of the Rialto Hotel. Fans of Martin Gimenez Castro need not fret, however, with the Argentinean chef still leading the line at his second restaurant, the highly decorated Ceviche Bar.

Color Your Polish With Culture And Music

Learn Polish through the mediums of art, color and music only at Cup of Polish! Using our new concept, you’ll learn to sustain basic conversation, retain basic vocabulary and maintain simple grammar.

Covering topics such as Warsaw survival, wining & dining, and what to see and hear around the capital city, sign up now for six meetings in February (Mon & Thu 11:30-13:00) Cup of Polish Żurawia 6/12, cupofpolish.com

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Color (Kolor)

Music (Muyzka)

Art (Sztuka)

a unique shopping experience 3.1 Philip Lim — Rodarte — Paul Andrew — Justine Clenquet Nina Kastens — ­ Jonathan Simkhai — D’ESTREE — ­ RIXO London

www.lui-store.com Mokotowska 26 Warsaw

Sp Par ot tne lig r CA ht FE

GET SQUARE!

Welcome to Lapidarium, the café making a difference to Warsaw’s Old Town Square…

N

ot just for sightseers, our café inside the Museum of Warsaw has struck favor with locals and tourists alike for both its intimacy and breadth of choice. Visit us and you’ll soon understand why! Whether you cozy up on a couch up front, or in the warm privacy of the back, we guarantee an atmosphere suited to your mood.

Featuring exquisite breakfasts, restaurant standard main meals, and a wealth of desserts, we’ve also kept an eye open for those who want something smaller – in addition to the above, enjoy sandwiches, salads and soups freshly prepared in our kitchen. And to go with those, how about perusing our broad selection of specialty coffees, our homemade lemonades and cocktails or a warming cup of tea from Harney & Sons.

In the mood for something stronger? You’ve picked the right place. Our menu includes several alcoholic beverages, among them local liqueurs and craft beer.

Whether you’re in the area for a business meeting, a walk around Old Town, or to visit the Museum of Warsaw, our doors are always wide open for you. Our spacious, comfortable venue is nothing short of ideal – the only problem, is saying goodbye to us will be harder than you think!

Café Lapidarium Rynek Starego Miasta 40, lapidariumcafe.com

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MATCHA OF THE DAY Go green with Moya Matcha!

O

ur quality is confirmed by our rigorous standards and organic certification. This means that Moya Matcha is grown on lands free of pesticides and that every batch is carefully checked for potential chemical residue.

Moya Matcha is a brand of authentic Japanese organic matcha grown in the Uji region of the Kyoto Prefecture – for over 800 years, it’s been known for the cultivation of the highest quality green tea. The Uji region is famous for its fertile soils and clean water and the green tea plants enjoy ideal growing conditions thanks to hills that direct the sunlight, frequent mists that protect the delicate leaves from frost, as well as the high amount of rainfall.

Moya Matcha is meticulously cultivated and harvested on small family-owned organic tea fields. It’s then processed locally in Japan, hermetically packaged and dispatched in small batches to assure the peak freshness of all of our grades. This helps preserve all the qualities of the tea leaf and maintain high levels of minerals and antioxidants.

MATCHA BENEFITS

Matcha offers the highest known value of cell-protecting antioxidants of any natural product, many times greater than goji berries, pomegranates or regular green tea. These antioxidants, called catechins, are believed to have powerful anti-cancerous properties.

Matcha’s catechins have been found to increase thermogenesis, the body’s rate of burning calories, by over 20% of daily energy expenditure. Also, the caffeine contained within matcha provides a gentle energy boost that is balanced by L’theanine, an amino acid with calming properties. The combination of both these elements allows drinkers to reach a state of acute alertness and invigoration without the caffeine slump associated with coffee consumption.

MOYA MATCHA TRADITIONAL

High-quality organic matcha from the first and second harvest features a well-balanced rich bitter-sweet taste, a creamy texture and a malachite green colour. Its full-bodied flavor makes it ideal to drink on its own but also in lattes, smoothies and lemonades.

MOYA MATCHA PREMIUM

Organic matcha from the youngest and finest leaves of the first harvest. Used for traditional tea ceremonies, it possesses a rich mellow sweet taste and creamy texture and is distinguished by its vibrant jade green color. It’s perfect for preparing koicha, a thickened matcha espresso with a little amount of water.

MOYA MATCHA DAILY

High-quality organic matcha from the second and third harvest. It has a strong green tea taste and lingering astringency. Moya Matcha Daily has a stronger and more bitter taste compared to higher grades of matcha. It’s a perfect choice for green tea enthusiasts and an ideal ingredient for smoothies, ice-cream and baking.

MOYA MATCHA TO GO!

Moya Matcha Traditional from the first and second harvest is packed in the form of handy sticks that are easy to carry for everyday use. With Moya Matcha To Go! you can prepare your matcha quickly in a bottle of mineral water: just tear, shake and drink!

Moya Europe moyamatcha.com, fb.com/moyamatcha, contact@moyamatcha.com warsawinsider.pl

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Enjoy the hospitality and tastes of the Bosphorus in Poland’s most authentic Turkish restaurant Pl. Konstytucji 2, tel. 883 444 441, anatolia.pl

EAT! STEAMIN’ HOT

You won’t find many foodies extolling the virtues of Marszałkowska, but that stands to change with the opening of Udon Noodle Bar. Hidden behind fogged-up windows, the simplistic interiors belie a brief menu that has struck a chord with the local Chinese community for the authenticity of its hand-stretched Lamian noodles and freshly-steamed dim sum. Reminiscent of the kind of clattery venue found in China Towns the world over, what the Udon Noodle bar lacks in choice and aesthetics is counter-balanced courtesy of plump little dumplings you can’t get enough of.

PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

Udon Noodle Bar ul. Marszałkowska 85

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LITTLE ITALY

Small is beautiful down in Powiśle…

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t

hese are interesting times to be

in Powiśle. If there was an unspoken fear that the closure of Solec 44 was the signal for all life to end, then that fear has proved illfounded. Powiśle, you see, just can’t stop from being fab. In a year that saw LAS and Kufle i Kapsle land locally, 2018 will be remembered even more fondly for the entry of Prosciutteria.

It’s small, in fact, some richer readers probably have shoe cupboards that are

bigger. But there lies the charm. Buzzing with warmth, here an interior composed of pre-war floor tiles, exposed brickwork, and black and white images of Italian icons sets a casually good mood that’s sustained by the owners. At which point, meet Barbara and Marcin. Engaging and conversational, they’re everything you could wish for from a pair of hosts – cliché as it sounds, you enter as strangers but leave as friends.

They’re knowledgeable, as well. If Prosciutteria feels good, then it tastes even bet-

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

Eat! Review

Prosciutteria ul. Solec 85, fb.com/ProsciutteriaPowisle

ter. The first such concept in Warsaw (and Poland, you’d guess), here the menu is so simple you could easily memorize it after a few bottles of wine. Based around cold cuts, find heavy wooden boards (“Made in Crete from a tree cut down 90-years ago!” says Marcin with a grin), loaded with imported delicacies from small producers that the couple have befriended: Ubriaco cheese bathed in Prosecco; pork belly fat dry-cured for six months; salami from Milan and Naples; five-year-old Veneto cheese washed

in beer; and the kind of sundried tomatoes you feared you’d never find in Poland.

There’s more, of course, but it all becomes one in this orgy of pleasure.

Coming in three sizes (small for two, medium for four, large for six people respectively), these boards of charcuterie are Prosciutteria’s signature, but they are not the only feather to this venue’s cap. The Panini is in a class of its own, with this simple sandwich elevated several levels above its station thanks to the extraordinary Italian

ingredients that Barbara and Marcin have sourced: you’ll only stop eating once the belt pops a buckle. Obsessed by the quality of their products, everything that’s present comes with a complex, background story that the couple are happy to share. And sharing, you get the impression, is one of the fundamental principles on which Prosciutteria has been founded. It’s not a place in which to keep yourself squirreled in the shadows, it’s a place of wine and contentment and infectious enjoyment. (AW) warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Review

WINNER, WINNER, CHICKEN DINNER

Looking to revise and rehabilitate the reputation of fried chicken, this cult spot has been a sensation since opening in Muranów at the end of 2017 – and why not, after all, who doesn’t love a sexy, crispy chicken.

Paired with double-fried chunky chips, think of it as an artisanal take on KFC for the post-hipster generation.

And best of all, check their homemade sauces: from the tart and spicy Challenger No. 3, to the tangy MangoBBQ option, these are sauces that open the gateway to addiction. The ultimate definition of comfort food, look on Kura as one of the city’s best examples of street food culture gone right.

Kura ul. Nowolipki 15, fb.com/restauracjakura

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PERA RESTAURANT CORDIALLY INVITES YOU TO A CULINARY FEAST OF FLAVORS. Having cooked for the likes of Martin Scorsese, Leonardo Di Caprio, Cameron Diaz and Matt Damon, chef Nestor Grojewski is recognized as a true master of Italian cooking. Combining modernity with perfection whilst also preserving the traditional character of Italian cuisine, no other chef does it quite like Nestor!

Al. Krakowsa 248, tel. 575 468 685 instagram.com/perarestauracja facebook.com/perarestauracja

EAT! Listings By in large, you can expect to pay between zł. 20-35 for starters, and zł.

35-70 for mains. Expect those prices to double in the case of the city’s fine dining venues. Those wishing to cut costs should seek out the weekday business lunch deals now offered by most restaurants. When tipping, 10-20% is considered polite though be aware of automatic service charges in some venues.

american 38 bakeries 38 balkan 38 chinese 38 comfort food 40 desserts 40 fine dining 40 french 42 georgian 42 greek & turkish 42 indian 43 indonesian 44 international 44 italian 48 japanese & sushi 49 korean 50 latin & spanish 51 mexican 51 middle eastern 52 polish 54 scandinavian 60 seafood 60 specialty food shops 60 steak houses 61 street food 62 thai 62 ukrainian 63 vegan & wholefood 63 vietnamese 64

american Hard Rock Café Instantly recognizable by the giant neon guitar outside, Hard Rock has a pierced staff of skater boys and rock girls and a menu that is, if nothing else, completely reliable. Peruse rock’n’roll swag that includes Joplin’s blouse, Prince’s guitar and Shakira’s pants. (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, hardrockcafe.pl Koko & Roy Spotlighting ‘New American Cuisine’, the thrust here is on comfort food, albeit several steps beyond what you’d rustle up at home: the Odds & Ends (deep fried pigs tails and chicken hearts tumbled into a big bowl and served with pickled red onions and a lash of sriracha aioli) are bold, unexpected and utterly delicious.

Fun, innovative and pleasingly casual, it’s a bit like visiting friends who really know how to cook. Take it all in inside a brill interior that’s all Sputnik lights, intriguing artwork and mustard-toned finishes. (D5) ul. Wilcza 43

bakeries Aromat That many consider this their favorite bakery says it all. French flour and an expert baker ensure brilliant results, while the lemon éclairs deserve their own Facebook page. (C4) ul. Sienna 39, fb.com/ piekarnia.aromat Café Vincent Queues build quickly as locals line up to buy baguettes, cinnamon rolls, lemon croissants and beautiful pains au chocolat. But people don’t just head in then out, a small wine list and brilliant people spying opportunities cause many to hang around. (D3) ul. Nowy Świat 64 Paul Specializing in pastries, baguettes and other baked goods, this French chain have rapidly entrenched themselves in the capital following their debut last year.

Various locations, boulangeries-paul.com SAM Co-owner Małgorzata Kusina-Doran is

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a fine-bread connoisseur, honing her skills at a bread-making course chaired

by Raymond Blanc. While SAM have expanded to cover numerous locations, this has not been to the cost of the overall quality. many locations, sam.info.pl

balkan Banja Luka Lots of clunky timber and imported ceramics set the scene at this eatery, a Balkan stalwart that’s known for its economical pricing structure and bulky portions. Grilled meats are prominent and the food largely reliable. (E8) ul. Szkolna 2/4, tel. 22 828 1060, banjaluka.pl Na Bałkany This newbie modernizes the Balkan experience in a manner Warsaw’s yet to see: raw, industrial aesthetics meet head on with a menu that adds a delicate finesse to a cuisine better known for its heavy, rustic style. The addition of a light, sophisticated hand has not, however, been to the detriment of taste. Of the favorites, the swordfish steak, lamb goulash and beef plejskavica sell particularly well.

It feels all the more complete with a rakija or three. Full review soon. (D6) ul.

Koszykowa 47 (entry from ul. Koszykowa 53), tel. 22 118 38 38, nabalkany.pl

chinese

Pańska 85 Ample in size, the interiors speak of money well spent. This is especially true because despite the luxury trimmings Pańska looks good without ever losing its dignity. With their kitchen staff headhunted from across China, the food sets a standard that has yet to be seen in any Chinese restaurant in Warsaw: there’s delicate salmon rolls wrapped in mango; dim sum that are pouches of pure goodness; and Sichuan-style pork that’s a blaze of sizzle and spice. The Beijing Duck, carved and served table-side, is the highlight. (B4) ul. Pańska 85, panska85.com

EAT! Listings Regina Bar Taking their inspiration from New York’s Little Italy and Chinatown, the menu at Regina is the very definition of ethnic comfort food: won-ton dumplings, ribs in sticky hoisin sauce and the best-selling General Tso chicken – famed for its healing properties, it’s one of the best hangover remedies around. On the Italian front, leopard-spotted pizzas land are presented with wheel-bladed knives in a kooky, retro interior featuring a dangling chandelier and the tallest mirror in Poland (possibly). (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, fb.com/Reginabar To Tu Dumpling Bar A shabby looking shack cabin, To Tu offer what are seriously considered some of the best – if not the best – dim sum in town. Magic-ked up by a Manchurian exile, the experience isn’t unlike being in a sweaty back street haunt in Asia. And that’s a good thing! ul. Niekłańska 33, chinskapierogarnia.pl

comfort food Okienko When the chips are down and you’re looking for emergency nourishment, then join the queue outside Okienko: serving Belgian-style frites in paper cones, this street-side hatch is a true window of life.

The roster of sauces, written up in marker pen on the wall tiles, are often superb.

(D7) ul. Polna 22 Pogromcy Meatów Yearn no more for the elusive flavor of the backyard BBQ. Specializing in grilled meat, find exactly just that loaded into artisan buns alongside locally grown greens. The sense of homespun quality makes this the kind of comfort food that Warsaw has been missing for years. (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, tel. 505 703 508 Warburger While Warsaw has lost its appetite for burgers, you wouldn’t necessarily tell by popping in WarBurger. Set inside a diminutive cabin, join the scrum for jazzed-up burgers that use slow-food ingredients. If not the best, they’re most certainly up there. (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1, warburger.pl

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desserts Croccante Resistance is futile: surrender to made-on-site cronut creations such as the Philadelphia (strawberry sauce, white chocolate and cheesecake cream) or the Tropicana (mango & passionfruit cream, a shiny mango coating and Malibu with coconut milk), before forever slipping into a pleasing food coma inside a smart interior of glinting gold colors and soft velvet fabrics. (E5) ul. Żurawia 1A Deseo Burakowska Luxury desserts, pralines and tarts served inside an ivy clad building in a leafy post-industrial complex off Burakowska. The contemporary style is reflected by an interior that’s modern, pared down and richly bathed in sloping sunlight. ul. Burakowska 5/7, deseopatisserie.com El Krepel The rather tantalizing donuts include dulce de leche with cinnamon sugar or rich, creamy donuts topped with marshmallows. The work of Łukasz Kawaller (he of Hell’s Kitchen fame) and blogger / photographer / model Justyna Pankowska, it’s a charming, bijou space of fun, frilly style – think pretty pink seats and a wall overlaid with hundreds of rosebuds. (D6) ul. Śniadeckich 12/16 La Vanille Remember when everyone in the world began wolfing down cupcakes? La Vanille was born of that time. Though the general appetite for these dinky treats has waned, the popularity of La Vanille hasn’t. (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, lavanille.pl Lokal Dela Krem That you can now buy vegan, mojito-flavored cupcakes in Warsaw is an indication of the city’s fanatical commitment to healthy living. A roaring success, the first vegan cake shop in the country has become a local staple. (D5) ul. Hoża 27A Lukullus Founded in 1946, Lukullus have evolved into a funky boutique cafe chain noted for quirky interiors and buzzy atmosphere.

Oh, and desserts. Renouncing short cuts

and low-cost ingredients, this family enterprise has earned a name for top quality desserts that see traditional favorites updated for the modern times.

Various locations, lukullus.pl Miss Mellow Mixing sophisticated desserts with those that fall more on the filthy food porn side of thigs, Miss Mellow have hit the bull’s eye by offering something for everyone that enjoys the sweeter things in life.

Lauded even by Vogue, find a wicked rundown of toasts, brioches, financiers, brownies, cookies and cakes. Eschewing chemical nasties, it’s a place in which the owners’ commitment towards quality resonates throughout. (D5) ul. Wilcza 62 MOD Warsaw has always loved donuts, but it took the arrival of MOD to elevate this humble doughy vice to new levels with a glam New York-inspired makeover. The mango topped donut is our favorite by miles. (D7) ul. Oleandrów 8 Odette The original spot for ‘fine dining desserts’, Odette’s cool interior causes attention to naturally fall on the long, sleek counter that occupies one end.

It’s here that sweet creations glint like boutique little jewels. (D4) ul. Górskiego 6/07, odette.pl Warszawski Lukier The home of hardcore food porn.

Look for their signature freak shakes: towering treats cascading with calories and color. Their sister op on Żurawia has more of the same… and ice cream! (E5) ul. Hoża 5/7

fine dining Amber Room at the Sobański Palace Set in the pre-war Pałac Sobańskich, this pristine manor house is everything you expect: hushed, lavish, cultured and classy. The food fits the backdrop: devised by Robert Skubisz, the contemporary menu draws spontaneous outbreaks of collective joy. Maze-like in its layout, there’s enough nooks and secret rooms to make Amber Room the ideal address for expense account

EAT! Listings meetings.(E6) Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, amberroom.pl Atelier Amaro If Wojciech Amaro’s eponymous restaurant isn’t the most famous in the country, then it’s certainly the most important. Awarded Poland’s first Michelin star in 2013, it’s a venue that continues to set the pace in terms of innovation. Changing weekly, his ‘calendar of nature’ seeks to present forgotten ingredients such as little-known berries, herbs and flowers against meats and other ingredients reared or grown at the Atelier farm. One for any bucket list (gastronomic or not), there are occasions when dining here can feel like an out-of-body experience.

(E6) NEWSFLASH: relocating in Jan, see website for details, atelieramaro.pl Belvedere Łazienki Królewskie Set in an imperial age glass orangery, it’s festooned with intricate latticework and botanical exotica. The updated interiors are the work of acclaimed set designer Boris Kudlicka, and lend a fresh, contemporary tone that goes hand in hand with the menu. But behind the gels and emulsions and pretty little swirls, this is cooking of substantial depth; it’s cooking that takes you to the very soul of Polish nature. (F6) ul.

Agrykoli 1, tel. 22 558 6701, belvedere. com.pl

Chłodna 15 by Wilamowski Gone are the Alice in Wonderland decorations of the previous tenant, La Maison, replaced instead by a muted charcoal look that’s reassuringly refined – for the time you’re here, you forget you’re on the ground floor of a 70s tower block. Aiding the amnesia is the classic French cooking of Arkadiusz Wilamowski: small and mercurial in its content, the daily-changing menu is a work of preposterous detail – no sauce takes less than a day to make. So the rumors go, Michelin are watching closely.

(B3) ul. Chłodna 15, choldna15.pl Europejski Grill The flagship restaurant of the Raffles Europejski has cut no corners in their bid to become one of the city’s top restaurants.

A seriously swish interior of pearl white colors is teed-up against contemporary flashes (hexagonal lighting, outsized plates hanging from the wall) and gleaming silverware. Enjoying precisely composed dishes such as beetroot tartar or Dover Sole is a well-tailored crowd that expects nothing but the best. (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, raffles.com/warsaw N31 Been there, done it all. That’s Robert Sowa, a national treasure widely hailed for modernizing Poland’s gastronomic sector back in the country’s culinary dark days.

A common sight on TV, the chef’s public profile has meant there’s no shortage of

bums on seats in his flagship restaurant, but this is more than a chef trading on his past. A chic city center bubble beloved by business types, the food is first class with Sowa’s international travels reflected by surprises such as flawless tuna partnered with kabayaki sauce, yuzu, wasabi dressing and turnip salad. The flavor combinations are exceptional. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 31, n31restaurant.pl

Nolita BEST WAWA 2017 “Fine Dining” For many diners, there is no bigger night out than one that begins and ends in this enclave of class. Dashing in its monochrome colors and muted gunmetal shades, Nolita is where Warsaw heads to live the life of the 1%.

Lacking the magic tricks of some, the ‘show factor’ might be subdued but the tastes definitely aren’t. Who to credit?

Two words: Jacek Grochowina. Cooking with poise and focus, his menu is a marriage of the classic and creative, with core ingredients given unexpected lifts with cunning turns and inspired little twists: maybe some yuzu with the tartare or konbu with the eel. (D5) ul.

Wilcza 46, tel. 22 292 0424, nolita.pl

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EAT! Listings Platter by Karol Okrasa It’s a fact that Okrasa’s appearances in the kitchen are fleeting and rare, but that’s done nothing to hurt this restaurant’s prestige. Head chef Łukasz Pielak has proved to be a lethal assassin, executing the ideas of his mentor with accuracy and passion. The cooking is detailed, balanced and elegant, with the highlight of our visit being deer in plum sauce. A thing of imperial, velvety richness it’s a dish that turns up the volume on a memorable experience. (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (Hotel InterContinental Warsaw), warsaw.intercontinental.com Senses Diners are best advised to leave logic outside. Inspired by the idea of ‘note-bynote’ cooking, Italian-born chef Andrea Camastra isolates and extracts molecules from ingredients to obtain the purest flavors before matching them up with unlikely partners. What unfolds is a dazzling show of near illusory brilliance; the technical proficiency of the kitchen is exceptional and makes the WTF prices easier to swallow. Wrap-up the evening with a pungent, edible cigar. (C2) ul.

Bielańska 12, tel. 22 331 9697 Signature If you thought hotel restaurants were the mundane realm of business travelers then you haven’t visited Signature.

The design incorporates architectural elements from the times this functioned as the Soviet Embassy, Oswald chairs and photos of Marilyn shot by Milton Greene. Then, along comes the food, a sophisticated pan-European event with occasional Polish accents. Dessert, especially the mille-feuille, should not be missed. (D5) ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 55 38755, signaturerestaurant.pl

french Bistro la Cocotte Cocotte feels warm and intimate, a factor aided by a small open kitchen and the atmosphere of home. The menu, chalked up on the blackboard, is a flexible affair that makes use of the ingredients at hand, and is divided into a smattering of light bites, desserts and plat du jour. (D6) ul.

Mokotowska 12, tel. 664 906 000

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L’Arc Looking elegant with its black/white floors and subtle decorations bills at L’Arc can become big number affairs – especially if you hanker for seafood. Pick from numerous types of oysters or delve into the fish tank for the lobster of your choosing. The catchment area extends beyond the borders of Mokotów, not just because of their ‘fresh from France’ seafood, but because of classic dishes such as Mulard duck and Burgundy snails.

(E8) ul. Puławska 16, larc.pl

georgian Chinkali Signposted by a Georgian-language shingle, there’s a real sense of pleasure about this place. More modern than your typical folksy ethnic outpost, Chinkali’s draw is indeed its chinkali: dough purses packed with meaty broth. There’s a genuine homemade quality to these slurpy bundles of joy, meaning that while they’re authentic, consistency can vary. And don’t miss out on the red bean chachapuri washed down with a mouthwash-colored tarragon lemonade. (D4) ul. Zgoda 3 Klukovka Jana Pawła’s pavilions are the unlikely location of this culinary beacon: amid the aggressive waft of its kebab shop neighbors, Klukova presents itself as a warming mouse hole filled with banter, babble and rich aromas. Specializing in the foods of ‘the east’, this means a menu inspired by the tastes of Georgia, Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan, and more. The mutton manty dumplings are great, and best appreciated with a bottle of unfiltered Lithuanian beer. (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 45A, klukovka.pl Rioni Warsaw’s foodies like talking of ‘cursed locations’, and they don’t get more hexed than Mokotowska 17. But despite its history of failed ventures, Rioni feel better placed than most to break the jinx. Set in a curving brick room lit by dangling overhead bulbs, join a young-ish crowd

for juicy Georgian dumplings oozing with meat and herbs, hearty soups and big, doughy wheels of cheese-filled chaczapuri. (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17 (enter from Pl. Zbawiciela), rioni.pl Rusiko To the uninitiated, Georgian food is representative of the heart, spirit and passion of its people; it’s a cuisine that values the concept of the feast: wine, laughter and song find themselves elevated to roles of primary importance. A food of life, spice and whole-hearted tastes, consider Rusiko as the best ambassador there is for this surprisingly diverse kitchen. Note: closed Monday. (E5) Al. Ujazdowskie 22, tel.

22 629 0628, rusiko.pl

greek & turkish Anatolia Looking dark and moody, Anatolia adds a veneer of sophistication to the traditional Turkish dining experience; presentation, you can tell, is important, but so too is the general sense of replicating the standards of home. Meat finds itself treated with reverence, and that holds especially true when it comes to steak and lamb. (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 2, anatolia-waw.pl Maho Maho feels like it’s located at the end of the earth – but its distance deters no-one, least of all its army of hardcore followers. Why are they there? The answer is a Turkish grill that takes you right to the heart of this glorious cuisine.

Highly recommended is the Iskender kebab: layers of juicy doner meat served with scoops of fresh tomato sauce and fresh, thin pide bread straight from the wood-fired oven. While you’re there, you may as well stock up on imported goodies from their adjoining store. Al. Krakowska 240/242, maho.com.pl Paros Out of all of Warsaw’s Greek contributions Paros dazzles most with a glitzy look that’s a complete U-turn from the typical taverna look. Owned by the same team behind El Greco, the menu is identical,

EAT! Listings though a recent visit suggests a kitchen resting on its laurels – not one plate on our table was finished. (D4) ul. Jasna 14/16, tel. 22 828 1067, paros-restauracja.pl Santorini Santorini looks scuffed and tired but there’s a bonhomie present that instantly engages. The kitchen attaches no value to things like presentation, preferring instead to simply treat diners to piles of grilled and skewered food that consistently tastes right. ul. Egipska 7, tel. 22 672 0525, kregliccy.pl/santorini/ Sofra A highly respected Turkish eatery with a wondrous beef mussaka and a wholly admirable lineup of other ethnic dishes: the lamb shashlik has never failed us.

Pleasingly informal, this neighborhood redoubt feels cheerfully unforced, and it becomes an easy place to hang around in.

(C6) ul. Wilcza 71, tel. 731 847 731

indian Bollywood Lounge Known for their raucous dusk-till-dawn parties, there is another less hedonistic roll filled by Bollywood: that of a restaurant. The menu is an uncomplicated, classic affair that’s an ideal primer for the party ahead. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, tel. 22 827 0283, bollywoodlounge.pl

Curry House Ask for something extra hot in Curry House and by Suresh that’s what you’ll get. Yet at Curry House there is more to sing about than just Poland’s highest voltage vindaloo. The curries are rich and sumptuous and consistently cited as among the best in the city. If in doubt, the chicken tikka masala is a fail-safe request. ul. Żeromskiego 81 & ul. Hoża 54, curry-house.pl

Bombaj Masala Not just the best looking of Warsaw’s Indian restaurants, Bombaj Masala also has some of the best cooking. With so many restaurants reliant on one ‘master pot’ for their curry, this classy venue feels unique in delivering a variety of rich, intense tastes. The vindaloo is a special standout, with big, punchy flavors that leave you tingling long after you leave.

(B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 606 688 777, bombajmasala.pl

Curry Leaf The post-industrial style is diluted by the number of Indian trinkets hanging off the vents and pipes. Owned by the same crew behind the lauded Curry House, you’d be completely correct to assume consistency and excellence. ul. Conrada 5, curryleaf.pl

Finest Authentic Indian Cuisine in Locations Around Warsaw WWW.CURRY-HOUSE.PL

ŻEROMSKIEGO 81 508 870 774

HOŻA 54

536 443 771

KONDRATOWICZA 59 789 444 921

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EAT! Listings that’s deep and immensely satisfying.

Then there’s the vindaloo, an experience that leaves some close to spontaneous combustion. Al. KEN 47, tel. 22 213 0689, mrindia.pl Guru Moving into the space vacated by the lamentable BrewDog pub, Guru joins the city’s (very) shortlist of higher end Indians.

The menu is a union of local, seasonal ingredients (organic this, farmyard that) and imported spices, coming together to blast the competition out of the water.

From the openers, the chili chicken fry stands out as a dish that’s all snap and crackle, while of the mains the tikka masala is exceptional in taste. Plus points for Indian-themed cocktails that really hit the mark – easily one of our favorite openings of 2018. (D4) ul. Widok 8, gururestauracja.pl House of Curry Heat seekers can ‘enjoy’ a genuine deathby-fire experience at House of Curry, though far milder curries are available for more sensitive palettes – either way, the experience is fantastic, and good news for those stuck out in the depths of Józefów. ul. Patriotów 11 A, house-of-curry.pl Indian Taste Set within a new residential complex on the border of Żoliborz, this smart-looking labor of love presents traditional favorites alongside lesser-known choices such as mango chicken and lamb amritsari. If you’re in luck, find meals complimented with additional chili concoctions made by the chef. Pl. Niemena 1, indiantaste.pl Mandala This long-standing legend is known for its ample portions and online delivery service. Sitting down, the creamy mutton methi is a masterpiece, and the Madras recognized for its blitzing big spices. Their latest operation, set out on Sienna, is open for Indian-style breakfast. ul. Emilii Plater 9/11 / ul. Etiudy Rewolucyjnej 9 & ul. Sienna 87, mandalaklub.com or indiaexpress.pl Mr. India Split on two levels the design is contemporary if a little characterless: leather banquettes that leave a sweaty bum print and wood paneling. No problem though: if it looks bland then the food isn’t.

That means an incredible butter chicken

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Smak Curry There’s been a pandemic of average Indian restaurants, but despite the rather slim menu Smak Curry deserves praise for some of the best eastern cooking we’ve seen this year. Looking good on all fronts, the lavishly spiced dishes are complimented by bright, modern interiors and sunny, friendly wait-staff. (E8) ul.

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indonesian Warung Jakarta The menu has a street food edge and is divided into steps wherein diners first pick out their choice of protein, then their rice, before concluding with any vegetables add-ons (e.g. pak choy, green beans or water spinach). While most Warsaw restaurants have a special lunch scheme going on, Warung’s is one that actually warrants a further look: find truly great off-menu dishes that are highly accessible to all levels of income. (D6) ul.

Piękna 28/34

international Ale Wino Blurring the lines between wine bar and restaurant, the style is easy, breezy and powerfully magnetic – occupying a spread of atmospheric rooms to the back of a Mokotowska courtyard, seats are sometimes hard to come by. The reason: chef Sebastian Wełpa. Of the recent highlights, the rump of lamb with horseradish puree, marinated carrot and bison grass sauce stands out as one of the Insider’s top meals of 2018. (F5) ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 628 3830, alewino.pl Bazar Kocha Designed to evoke the spirit of a farmers’ market, the woodsy interior is filled with stall-style units neatly stacked with jars and pots. Yet these are not decorative decoys, but part of a thoughtful grocery

offer aimed at showcasing Kocha’s own-made produce. Above all though, this is a restaurant whose menu is strongly influenced by concepts of ‘terroir’. The giant leg of lamb falls off the bone and is a dish to recommend and remember for several months to come. (D6) ul.

Mokotowska 33, bazarkocha.pl Bez Tytułu Gosh. Co-owned by the Kasia Michalski Gallery to the flank, the restaurant feels like a natural extension: find contemporary art and photography set against raw brickwork while pendant bulbs cast a soft light down. Onto the important stuff, and Erwan Debono’s menu makes much of his native French background as well as Poland’s own rich access to produce.

The results come together in a way that’s nuanced and subtle. (D5) ul. Poznańska 16, beztytulu.com Bibenda The menu declares Bibenda to be ‘a celebration of food, drink and togetherness’, and that’s precisely what it is.

Augmenting the warm, busy interiors are a thoughtful selection of craft beers and a concise menu that varies from month-tomonth. The apparent simplicity of the food is illusory and belies the kitchen’s knack for spotting interesting combinations such as goose with pumpkin puree, cranberry / red wine jam and chili caramelized beetroot. Not everything goes to plan, and consistency is an issue, but Bibenda’s general approval ratings show no signs of waning. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 10, tel. 502 770 303, bibenda.pl Brasserie Warszawska Looking for classic cuisine with no daft flights of fancy? Here you have it. At a time when everyone wants to be Ferran Adrià, Brasserie has both a menu and interior that you can understand: panfried foie gras; elegant beef Rossini; and sinful apple tarte tatin, all served inside posh interiors of zinc-plated mirrors and chessboard floors. Their Michelin Bib Gourmand is a source of pride, but it’s the number of repeat clients that are the ultimate paean to the skills of the chef.

(E5) ul. Górnośląska 24, tel. 22 628 9423, brasseriewarszawska.pl Bubbles Occupying a small, square room, it’s

EAT! Listings intimate and relaxed: a place busy with blackboards and bottles, crates and clutter. It radiates warmth and honesty.

The food is exquisite, and includes big, meaty snails farmed in Mazury, and their signature dish: Swiss-style raclette.

Presented on a wooden chopping board, this cheese dish is classic melty goodness, and served alongside a pile of potatoes, onions marinated with caramel and candied pumpkin. Considering the place doubles as a champagne bar the prices are remarkably moderate. (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 512 540 913, bubbles. com.pl Der Elefant This leviathan restaurant unravels in a maze of wrought iron and monochrome tiles – beautiful to look at (it was created

by Oscar-winning set designer Allan Starski), it’s caused a stir for more than just this alone. Where once the menu looked like it was devised by throwing

darts at a cookbook, the focus has now been narrowed. While some of the dishes are strictly middling, the filet mignon (zł. 69) is one of the best meat deals in town in terms of quality / price / consistency. (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, tel. 22 890 0010, derelefant.com Dom Here’s the very epitome of casual dining: set on the ground floor of a suburban house, the warm corners and garden views give Dom a real sense of homey charm. In line with all that is a menu that celebrates simple, honest cooking.

Everyone who visits ends up loving the place. ul. Mierosławskiego 12, tel. 509 165 712 Drukarnia Wrapped inside an ugly 1950s facade, this former printing house unravels to expose a sensational interior high on retro pieces: jagged-shaped stone

floor tiles, a red neon and stern Socialist era statuettes lend a heavy PRL accent, though the big statement at Drukarnia is supplied courtesy of the architecture itself. Tall windows, high ceilings and a peculiar spiral staircase that disappears into nowhere collude to lend Drukarnia a sense of light, space and depth. The food: limited choice of European standards cooked with competence. If you’re in the area, worth a look ul. Mińska 65, drukarnianapradze.pl Dyletanci Filled with crisp, modern citizens that radiate confidence, Dyletanci introduces itself as a bistro set with green banquettes and Tom Dixon lamps. The wine selection is among the best in the nation, while the cooking has been left to Rafał Hreczaniuk, a workaholic chef with outrageous talent. His zander fillet thrills with every bite. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44A, dyletanci.pl

Focaccia Ristorante Modern take on Italian cuisine

by Samuele Mariani

tel.: +48 22 829 69 69 ul. Senatorska 13/15, Warsaw/Old Town restauracja@focaccia.pl, fb.com/restauracjafocaccia www.focaccia.pl

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EAT! Listings Fest Port Czerniakowski Bring out the clichés: at Fest quality rules over quantity. Food-wise, there’s not much to choose from, but it’s doubtful you’ll find better ribs for a few hundred miles.

Cooked outdoors on a beast of a smoker, these are glorious things of atavistic joy.

Improving the mood yet further is the backdrop, a timber cabin in a wooded part of Warsaw. There’s nowhere else like it.

(G6) ul. Zaruskiego 8 GarMasz Combining the functions of a store, butchery and, above all, a restaurant, GarMasz is the creation of Piotr Pielichowski, a cook best-known for his appearances on the Polish edition of Master Chef. A keen promoter of natural ingredients and fancy delicacies, his restaurant is stunning in every respect: three years in the making, even the interiors will blow you away.

Designed by Gdańsk-based arcthiect Krystian Rassmus, details include oak finishes, 18th century tiling and swish chandeliers. Full report soon. (E4) ul.

Kopernika 5 Genesis What the hell is it? Seen as an amorphous blob composed of triangular white plates and large glass panels, Genesis restaurant is an instant head turner. the feeling is of stepping into your own futuristic space adventure. As for the menu, that’s been revamped by the new chef, former

Top Chef contestant Paweł Kibart, and makes use of a Mibrasa charcoal oven – apparently the first in Poland. (A4) Pl. Europejski 5, fb.com/genesiswarsaw Kieliszki Na Hożej Set on the corner of an ornate pre-war building, Kieliszki casts a warm, beckoning glow on the street outside – resisting its charms is entirely impossible. The cooking is just as seductive and sees Polish mainstays such as dumplings, tartare and herring given a 21st century update. Superb wines, all of which are available by the glass, round out the experience. (D5) ul. Hoża 41, kieliszkinahozej.pl

Kromki Better known for kebab stores and booze outlets, this section of JPII does at times chuck up the occasional surprise: Kromki, for one. The menu is a Jack-of-all-trades, with pizza and burgers rubbing shoulders against pierogi, steak and sharing plates.

Yet despite the randomness of the choices and the curious location, there’s something here that really strikes the right note. Expect tastes that work inside a informal, casual space that’s fast taking off as a local secret. Al. Jana Pawła II 45A

A MODERN BISTRO IN WARSAW'S MURANÓW Jana Pawła II 45a, lok. 38, Tel: 666 043 043 kromkibistro.pl fb.com/kromkibistro

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La Brasserie Modern The interior of Didier Gomez whispers intimacy, yet it also embraces notions of space and light. The casual elegance that emanates from the design is accented by warm colors, low banquettes and glinting mirrors. The menu fits seamlessly with the surrounds: a fresh, modern look at French cuisine, but one that values clarity and simplicity. (D3) ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8332, sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com

Lente There’s a valid reason for the optimism swirling around Hoża, not least the launch of venues such as Lente. Revamping Mediterranean cuisine for the 21st century diner, this casual spot feels suitably bright and sunny. Featuring Gregory Bell in the kitchen, food here shines a spotlight on tapas and sharing plates and has thus far met with widespread approval. Full report soon! (D5) ul. Hoża 43/49

Loft Color, that’s what Loft has. It’s everywhere – from the design, which is all bubble shaped lights and splashy, bright cushions, to the drinks: extravagant cocktails that possibly glow in the dark.

The menu is full of playful experimentation, something reflected by a seasonal menu that has, in the past, presented such choices as chicken with strawberries.

(D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 668 016 964, restauracjaloft.pl MOD Where odd couplings are concerned, MOD takes the biscuit: hip donut store by day, at night it morphs into a cool restaurant whose card veers between steaming bowls of ramen and inventive

EAT! Listings modern dishes that harness the chef’s classic French training (think: beef cheeks with gremolata, tahini mash, veal jus and caramelized sprouts). It’s crazy popular with creative types touting man buns and t-shirts that threaten: “I Shoot Hipsters”. (D6) ul. Oleandrów 8, fb.com/ MODOleandrow8 Mokolove A clear U-turn from the chef’s recent fine dining background (formerly the sous at Nolita, should you ask), there’s something welcoming and warm about this Mokotów venture. Already, you feel a familiarity in the air, not to mention a care and attention towards both produce and punters. The menu, meanwhile, speaks for the need of comfort with its offer of pizza, pastas and seasonal dishes such as pumpkin soup. Already, a favorite with local families looking for something comfortable and casual. (E9) ul. Różana 14, fb.com/RestauracjaMokolove Mokotowska 69 Set inside a rotunda at the tail end of the street, it’s a place that exudes elegance and class. Most of all, however, it’s a restaurant to be enjoyed. Brought to you by the same team credited for Merliniego 5, Mokotowska’s appreciation of steak has been lifted from their elder sister. Yet the virtues of this restaurant extend beyond steak alone: the Insider enjoyed a volley of greats – creamy breaded calf brains, sophisticated smoked eel, and Mazurian crayfish served in a deep, joyous sauce of rowan berry and brandy. (E5) ul.

Mokotowska 69, mokotowska69.com Momu Dominated by meat that’s cooked using the only smoker of its kind in Poland, the menu is comforting and strangely familiar: these are flavors reminiscent of campfire nights – brawny, smoky tastes with towering Reuben sandwiches, juicy steaks, bone marrow and wooden slabs brimming with meats from MOMU’s smokehouse. Impromptu art, tweeting birds and a neo-industrial design add oomph to the busy ambiance. (C2) ul.

Wierzbowa 11, tel. 506 100 001, momu.pl Opasły Tom The ground floor – all swanky lighting and navy blue seating – is often packed, so it’s downstairs you may head to an

intimate space more reminiscent of the original location formerly found on Foksal: here, it’s about muted colors and reassuring shadow. Characterized by its balanced, nuanced flavors and thoughtful combinations, the first menu to debut at this relaunched restaurant sees a medley of dishes you demand to eat again: pumpkin and curd dumplings served in a cheese sauce being the prime example.

(D2) ul. Wierzbowa 9 Pink Lobster The door clatters shut to divulge a narrow space of tall palm fronds and marble finishes underneath soaring ceilings that seem to stretch on forever. Bursts of flamingo pink colors lend a dapper sense of dazzle to this polished-looking venue. Food is an upscale work that, in spite of the Lobster’s name, awards equal importance to land and sea. Beautifully plated, dishes that the Insider fell for inc. sea bass ceviche, an exquisite exhibition of complex tastes set down in a slash of green on a plate that could pass for a work of sculpture. Immaculate roe deer and a series of extravagant desserts also won praise. (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, pinklobster.pl

‘Simplicity, elegance and atmosphere’

Cafe • Wine Bar • Restaurant • Whisky Bar • Wine Cellar ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 515 037 001 www.hoza.warszawa.pl www.facebook.com/hoza25 Open 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-21:00

Plato BEST WAWA 2017 “Neo Bistro” Conceived as a ‘smart casual’ restaurant, it’s a reasonably compact space with a modern style and incandescent bulbs hanging from a complex cat’s cradle of interweaving wires: classy but nothing too flashy or flamboyant. Then there’s the menu, a strange work that sees Spanish influences brushing shoulders next to Polish and Asian. It sounds silly and preposterous but my God it works. December saw us wowed by beef tartar cut from Polish Hereford, an aromatic oriental broth, and a refined halibut encircled with sage pesto, redcurrants and fresh almonds. Stunning. ul. Klimczaka 1 (Royal Wilanow), restauracjaplato.pl Restauracja Warszawska Humongous in size, the vast spaces and lack of natural light never feel an issue.

Loaded with slick finishes and polished raw materials, find this subterranean venue unraveling amid the giant original foundations that support this pre-war skyscraper. Divided into ‘snacks’, ‘plates’, ‘sides’ and ‘desserts’, big shouts go for the warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings golden schnitzel as well as the spicy pork dumplings served in a vibrant essence of paprika. It’s not a big menu, but it doesn’t need to be: exceptional in every respect, this restaurant has become one of foodie Warsaw’s biggest talking points. Upscalecasual has rarely felt this good. (D4) Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9 (Hotel Warszawa), warszawa.hotel.com.pl Rozbrat 20 This busy neo-bistro fuses upmarket, casual styling with an exciting wine list, interactive service and the kind of atmosphere you can’t get enough of. Under chef Bartosz Szymczak’s leadership, Rozbrat’s grown to become one of the blogospheres favorite write-ups. Never the same, if there’s a consistent thread to visits then it’s the playful inventiveness that has come to define Szymczak’s cooking. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 20, rozbrat20.com.pl Soul Kitchen Bistro If the previous venue was all slanted towards low-pitched business conversation then the new one is positively festive in comparison: scuffed brickwork, tall bar stools, a long communal table, etc.

The seasonal menu is a pick-and-mix of small-to-medium plates, including a halibut gravlax, whose delicate taste juxtaposes well against the rougher, earthier kick of the radish, and crayfish presented in a bird’s nest of green beans, fennel and leek. For mains, look for the braised beef. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 18A, soulkitchen.pl Stixx It’s easy to distrust a menu with such international diversity, but the kitchen crew really make it come together: the Indian section is particularly outstanding. Then there’s the design, a balance between slick corporate and sexy cosmopolitan: with the Warsaw Spire towering above it outside, it’s the kind of address to take any new arrival who still thinks of Poland as being backward. (A4) Pl. Europejski 4A, tel. 22 340 4040, stixx.pl Strefa If there’s a dining room in heaven, then it probably looks like Strefa – only marginally less white. Pure and pristine, the swan-like elegance of the interior whispers dignity and decorum.

Immaculate and refined, it’s a soothing

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atelier with a rarefied air. Mostly though, it’s the food that people talk about. Citing Nordic cuisine as his primary influence, the chef has honed a menu of note which, on our November visit, included a deep and soothing mushroom soup that brought to mind Poland’s dark autumn forest. The tastes are clear and true and say much for a chef that has his brain switched on. (C3) ul. Próżna 9, tel. 22 255 0850, restauracjastrefa.pl Supperlardo Run as a side project by Mąka i Woda (quite literally – it’s right next door), it’s a stylish-looking spot that’s fresh, contemporary and even a little edgy: for evidence, refer to a mural designed by Swansky, a local big gun on the street art scene. As for the menu, that’s a riotously meaty romp that involves wood-fired hams, sandwiches composed of pork belly pastrami and salt-cured meats from Puławska and Mangalica pigs. With orders taken at the counter, it’s a place that lifts the canteen concept to new, unseen heights. (D4) ul. Chmielna 13A, fb.com/Supperlardo Warszawski Sznyt Warsaw’s historic center is rightly glorified for many reasons – its restaurants, however, are not one of them. In fact, there’s probably nowhere in the city with a higher concentration of sub-par efforts. Aiming to redress the balance are Sznyt, an ambitious venue with swank interiors overlooking the Royal Castle, and a kitchen staff headhunted from blue ribbon venues such as Salto and Amaro. Set over two floors (one focused on Polish cuisine, the other on ‘international’), the pride of the house is afforded to the wood-fired grill. (D2) ul.

Senatorska 2, warszawskisznyt.pl White One The changing face of Koszykowa street is almost embodied by White One – where once stood a disintegrating tenement stands a revamped building with a super swanky ground floor restaurant. Ideal for those nights you want to make an impression, interiors are well-spaced, smart and modern but never too intimidating. The pared-down menu is fully reflective of contemporary dining trends: innovations include a 5-course vegan tasting menu, as well as a 7-course

menu entirely dependent on the whims of the chef – you won’t know what’s in store till it lands on the table! Full review soon. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 47, whiteone.pl Winsky Opened in November, Winsky have made a blistering start to life with early points scored for their selection of edgy ‘tap wines’ and menu of small plates – though mainly Polish in spirit, there’s enough international twists and turns to keep things varied. The design, with its deep sofas and riverside views, feels refined and considered – the kind of place you’d impress a first date. (F4) ul. Wioślarska 10

italian Altro Locale Set in a quiet section of Old Mokotów, it’s little wonder the plaudits haven’t ceased.

Owned by chef Andrea Carillo, authentic, homespun tastes vie for attention inside a charming space that’s chic and modern but never spartan. You can tell Carillo has invested his heart and soul in this venture, and the result is an ever-changing menu featuring lamb chops, sirloin, and sea bream done the Italian way – don’t think you’ll be getting any pizza here!

Fittingly, its reputation is now extending beyond the district’s natural border. (E8) ul. Willowa 9 Ave Pizza The argument over who serves Warsaw’s best pizza goes right to the wire, but there’s no doubting that Ave Pizza are up there on the leaderboard. Set across a sparse, metropolitan area, this fashionable L-shaped joint comes endorsed by the capital’s notoriously picky Italian community. Order the pillowy calzone and you’ll soon learn why. (E3) ul. Topiel 12, tel. 22 828 8507, avepizza.pl Dziurka od Klucza An enchanting locale in which enigmatic, lavender-painted doors sit embedded into the walls, as if waiting to be magically opened by the mysterious keys that hang from the numerous interior details. Set with empty picture frames and cotton ball lights, interiors just don’t get any cuter. As for food, the concise, daily-changing menu is centered around

EAT! Listings homemade pasta – pride of place is given to the black colored pasta served with seafood. (E3) ul. Radna 13, tel. 500 150 494, dziurkaodklucza.com.pl Focaccia The Insider’s visit went something like this: wrist-thick octopus with an arc of yellow mousse, conversation stopping beef tenderloin alongside a glistening pool of madeira sauce and then an orange ice cream with caramel and ginger that soon merged into a big gooey brew of chocolatey mess. The only surprise is there’s no Italian in the kitchen – it appears they don’t need one. This is seriously talented cooking inside an interior that fresh and light and reflective of the food. (D2) ul. Senatorska 13/15, tel.

22 829 6969, focaccia.pl Mąka i Woda Purists applaud an approach that uses a custom-made oven from Naples and imported ingredients such as 00 Caputo flour and DOP certified San Marzano tomatoes. Scrupulously authentic, it’s no wonder that it’s packed to the gunnels every night of the week – even their Facebook page warns of 20-minute waiting times for a table alone. (D4) ul.

Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 91 87 Otto Pompieri If you judge pizzerias on choice then Otto Pompieri’s modest count of eleven pizzas doesn’t promise much – but then it arrives. At zł. 21 for 42 centimeters, the margherita offers the best value per sq/cm than anything out here, while the artichoke pizza reveals itself in an orgy of melty virtue. The retro Little Italy look is rounded out by a cooking brigade that engage in banter and bravado while spinning dough in the air: it feels and tastes ideal. (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, fb.com/ otto.pompieri Posypane A casual restaurant with handmade pasta made fresh on the day and a choice that includes ravioli with chorizo and shrimp, bucatini Bolognese with seasoned beef and rosemary, and a creamy mushroom pappardelle. Then, adding to the sense of being somewhere young, fun and a little bit hip, is an edgy design featuring a wall of kitchen implements, hanging ropes and exposed concrete. In an area already rife

with niche eateries aimed at the modern day Varsovian, Posypane feels like a satisfying addition. (D5) ul. Hoża 43/49 Prosciutteria Powiśle Allegedly the shortest menu in the city, and with just three items to choose from, we’ve no reason to dispute that. Offering a trio of cold cut boards of differing size, find piles of the best Italian hams and cheese served alongside an offer of thirty plus Italian wines. Quality is outstanding, and the pre-war interiors warm, intimate and ideal for winter. Bring friends or someone special: they won’t be disappointed. (F4) ul. Solec 85

japanese Arigator This Japanese-style noodle joint whisks you to the narrow, steamy back alleys of late night Tokyo. Clad in corrugated iron and dark, weathered wooden slats, it’s got that buzzing sense of chaos that feels familiar from the films. And the food, gosh, they get that right as well.

From a tiny menu order up dainty pork dumplings, braised kakuni bacon or deep-fried tofu before hitting up a feisty bowl of ramen emanating life-affirming goodness. A complex tangle of interlacing flavors, it’s the sort of dish you’d happily queue up for: and yes, people do. (D6) ul.

Piękna 54 Benihana Fire, flash, show and sizzle: the Benihana experience merges cooking with cabaret with diners sat ringside around teppanyaki grills. These cooking stations are the stage for the Benihana crew to demonstrate their riveting range of nifty knifework and daredevil antics. Outside of the realm of the grill, the sushi also strikes the right note. (C4) ul. Twarda 2/4, benihanapoland.com Fat Buddha Immense in size, there’s a confident feeling of decadent ostentation: with light kept at bay by vast mulberry-colored drapes, what would otherwise appear as an over-sized hall feels intimate and sensual, dark and delicious. Japanese in spirit, the menu pitches a refined selection of exceptional dishes – elaborate dragon warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings rolls; delicate gyoza; and beef tataki that’s lightly seared and thinly sliced. It’s all perfect. (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 2/4 Mizu Rarely does a restaurant meet with such unanimous approval, and while the name of Mizu remains unknown among the majority, those In The Know have been crowing about it for a good couple of years. Irresistible, immaculate and imaginative, this is sushi the likes of which the capital has never seen before – there’s a magic here that makes the knees go wobbly. Touting a modern-minimal look, the off-center location in a former factory since requisitioned by ad agencies adds to the sensation of dining somewhere a little under-the-radar: to eat here is to visit one of Warsaw’s great whispered secrets. ul.

Duchnicka 3, mizusushi.pl Mugi More and more Japanese ventures are proving there is life beyond sushi, and Mugi is one such place. Specializing in ramen noodles and kushiage skewers (battered meat and veg served on a stixk), further bonuses include Choya liqueurs and a fun design that’s not short on Manga graphics. (D5) ul. Wspólna 37/39 Sakana Sushi & Sticks It’s not uncommon to hear the preparation of sushi described as a form of art, and in Sakana that’s exactly what it is.

Using premium ingredients and unusual combinations, their creations are a vivid blast of color and freshness. (D2) ul.

Moliera 4/6, tel. 22 826 59 58, sakana.pl Sato Gotuje Signposted by its own splash of Mangastyle art adorning the exterior wall, this Commie era pavilion feels small and squashed and assembled on a budget.

Who cares? No-one. An exciting departure from the norm – no sushi here – the menu is a selection of bitey Japanese street food such as grilled mackerel fillet with shavings of grated radish. Prices and quality ensure you don’t stop until you’ve gobbled your way through much of the menu. ul. Pawińskiego 24 Shoku Most places that claim to serve fusion do so because of an identity crisis. At Shoku, though, the mix and match approach

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when it comes to Asia (if it’s tasty, stick it on the menu!) feels rational and put together. Never short of custom, locals gather inside a bright, contemporary space to slurp down bowls of ramen, share shoku bowls or click chopsticks over small plates of dim sum and wonton. Come summer, the scene ramps up a notch with diners flocking to a prim garden area that’s billiard green in color.

(A4) ul. Karolkowa 30, shoku.pl Uki Uki How much do the locals appreciate Warsaw’s original udon bar? Enough to queue outside the door? That’s right.

Dining is a close quarters experience here, but is done so without complaint: that electric pasta maker turns out noodles of such chewy goodness that everyone leaves beaming. (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, tel. 728 827 705, ukiuki.pl Wabu Sushi becomes a heaven’s gate spiritual experience in Wabu with the evening passing in a blur of beautiful compositions, of silky slithers of fish crowned with expert pinches of this, and little brush strokes of that. That’s all elevated even further by deliciously upscale interiors befitting of the Spire location. (A4) Pl. Europejski 2 (Warsaw Spire), wabu.pl Yatta Ramen Scruffy, frayed and busy, Yatta is the living embodiment of the street food vibe. The ideal outlet for such an outlet, step inside a rackety interior to join other hip creatures Instagramming the only jiro ramen to be found in Warsaw. Once you’re done doing that, kick back to slurp over big, steamy bowl of spicy miso ramen. Already crazy popular, the onset of Warsaw’s annual winter chill looks set to give their takings another extra boost.

(E3) ul. Bartoszewicza 3, fb.com/YattaBowl

korean The Cool Cat Proving something other than just a faddish flash in the fire, The Cool Cat has caught the zeitgeist by the horns and come to represent the hip Powiśle style; casual and convivial and absent of aloofness, it’s a place in which all

life seems to gather for a taste of good times. Refusing to take themselves too seriously, the angle is fun and forwardthinking, something that’s evidenced by way of an occasionally wacky menu of Americanized Asian food: the K-Fries (a big messy mass of kimchi, chips, bulgogi beef) are spot on. (F4) ul. Solec 38, tel. 787 698 700 The Cool Cat TR A hip venue that offsets all the concrete colors with flashes of contemporary art and waterfalls of greenery that tumble over the windows. The overt hipness is reflected by a crowd that’s heavy on tattoos, piercings and odd urban style: you know you’re somewhere cool. Food, that’s a playful spin on Korean cuisine and includes chicken wings in hot gochochung sauce or more-ish soft-shell tacos with bulgogi sauce and water greens. Blips aren’t unknown, but the missteps tend to be forgiven: you can’t help but love what they’re trying to do.

(D6) ul. Marszałkowska 8 Koreanka A courtyard cubbyhole that’s scuffed, informal and fashionably ramshackle.

Such has been the stir created by it, diners arrive in the knowledge that they’ll be scavenging a table and eating what little might be leftover from another sell-out day. Yet here’s the point of contention: is it really all that’s cracked up? The kimchi is exemplary, but not everything works so well. Though raved about by Warsaw’s Instagrammers, we were left disenchanted by the shallow, empty tastes of the bulgogi. (D6) ul.

Koszykowa 59 KoreaTown Rest Here, the ubiquitous KFC (Korean fried chicken) is all crunch and crackle and the bulgogi tender, juicy and the right side of sweet; accompanying them, an assortment of bitey dishes heaving with chilli flecked kimchi, daikon radish and pickled bits and bobs. All very good, but nothing compared to the bossam, braised pork belly scooped up by hand inside glistening perilla leaves: it’s a dish that soothes, gratifies and leaves diners looking every bit as pleased as the pipe-smoking tiger that gazes from the wall. (E9) ul. Olesińska 2, fb.com/ KoreaTownRest

EAT! Listings Powidoki Set in the cool white cube that is the Museum of Modern Art, you’d think that Powidoki’s riverfront location would make it a highly seasonal destination. Not so. Though the menu’s brief and the background highly casual, the Korean choices feel more sophisticated and complex than anywhere else, a point that serves to keep business brisk. Served in a turmeric tomato sauce, the pork dumplings are an almost compulsory order. (E2) ul.

Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 22 Sora Maybe it’s not the best, but it’s certainly the best-known Korean restaurant in town. The tabletop BBQ sets are an essential order and ideal for the shared bonding experience. It all tastes even better with copious quantities of Makkoli wine. (A4) ul. Wronia 45 Yache Korea Though primarily known as the capital of Warsaw’s craft beer scene, Nowogrodzka is beginning to demonstrate that she’s more than just a one-trick pony.

Helping the food angle is this newbie, a steamy little venue that’s all clatter and commotion. Design barely goes beyond a wall of potted plants, but with a place of this size all you need is four people and presto, you’ve got an atmosphere. On the food front, the crispy chicken embraces the seoul (ha!) like comfort food at its best, and the bulgogi the best we’ve had this year – not bad going seeing there’s not a Korean in the kitchen. (D5) ul.

Nowogrodzka 25

latin & spanish Casa Pablo “We give Spanish food a new twist,” declares chef Gonzalo de Salas, which explains why, in between pungent cheeses and acorn-fed Bellota ham, we find ourselves demolishing a variety of dishes that buck all notions of tradition: as a starter the beetroot-marinated salmon served with wasabi emulsion is a fine example of this. With de Salas performing balletic tricks in the kitchen, Casa Pablo presents a masterful menu that ripples with adventure. (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5A, tel. 22 324 5781, casapablo.pl

Ceviche Bar With chef Martin Gimenez Castro injecting his passion and personality into the venue, this is an address that punches through the greyness of everyday Warsaw.

Ceviche – raw fish marinated in citrus juices and cilantro – is the default order, with the Atun one of the best sellers: chunks of tuna given a rich zing with the addition of chili, lime and roasted coriander. The Japanese influence on South America’s dining habits isn’t forgotten either, with must-haves including the the salmon tiraditos: served with teriyaki and sweet potato mash, it’s a joy of satisfying sensations: sweet, dreamy, spicy, creamy.

(C4) ul. Twarda 4, cevichebar.pl Tapas Gastrobar The popular practice is to order so many plates and bottles that the table becomes a Magic Eye of kaleidoscope patterns.

A great place for sharing and general interaction, the ambiance and quality belies the corporate anonymity of the location. Though the gazapcho is first class it’s bettered by the patatas bravos: fried potatoes in a ballsy tomato sauce. (A4) ul.

Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 251 1310, tapasbar.pl

mexican Dos Tacos Who doesn’t like asking for something that’s ‘under the counter’. In the case of Dos Tacos, doing so means inquiring about their range of ‘salsa clandestinas’: extra hot sauces designed for reckless thrill-seekers. But the true secret weapon at Dos Tacos is Isabel Balderas, a Mexican chef that has mastered the bright, bold tastes of her native country. This cuisine has enjoyed a breakout year in Warsaw, but while the millennials clamor over new food trucks and funky little start-ups, Dos Tacos is a timely reminder that the old guard sometimes know best. (D4) ul. Jasna 22, tel. 22 243 4618, dostacos.pl Gringo Bar A Mexican wave is upon us, and high time too. After years of suffering frozen ingredients, timid flavors and daft Mariachi

UL. PRÓŻNA 10 TEL: 577 607 775 restauracjasanthai.pl warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings music to persuade us it’s all authentic, a raft of new cut-price eateries are showing the rest how it’s done. Cooked and folded by fist bumping lads in back-to-front caps and baggy t-shirts, the food at Gringo is fiery, fresh and full of zing. There are detractors who claim this is a Polonized version of this cuisine, but the informal Gringo remains one of the market leaders.

(E9) ul. Odolańska 15, tel. 22 848 9523, gringobar.pl La Sirena You don’t even have to think twice when asked to name the best Mexican in the capital. Inspired by the ultra-violent films of Danny Trejo, the hardcore interior heaves with machetes, holy shrines, skulls and wire mesh; but if La Sirena looks fab, it tastes even better. Introducing a new dimension to Warsaw’s parched Mexican landscape, highlights inc. poblano peppers stuffed with pork/beef, peach, apple and apricots, as well as a ‘near death’ salsa that’s finally living up to

middle eastern

its name. (D5) ul. Piękna 54 Rico Muranów needs all the restaurants it can get, so the opening of Rico is long overdue. Spread on two floors, it’s got a design you’d describe as ‘jolly’ with plenty of bright sunny colors and cartoonish murals of chilis and vihuelas: basic, bright but also confident and fun.

The menu feels like a 90’s-style, ABC choice of standard Tex-Mex, but the burritos are delicious, the cocktails strong and the staff super-friendly. We like it!

(B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 61 Urban Burritos Super casual in style, this crowded little haunt fills with embassy workers from the US Embassy, a ringing endorsement if ever there were. Offering fillings of pork, beef, chicken and Portobello mushrooms, well-constructed wraps come served with salsas that sing with gusto. (D6) ul. Piękna 22, urbanburritos.pl

Le Cedre With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoalgrilled lamb chops. (E1) Al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166, lecedre.pl

Le Cedre 84 Le Cedre just keep on getting it right.

Authenticity is key in this chainlette

La Brasserie Moderne is a modern interpretation of traditional brasserie designed to bring the taste of the French art de vivre right to your table.

Discover a seasonal menu skillfully crafted by our Chef Maciej Majewski, who combined the finest culinary traditions of France with local flavors and a modern twist. Our open kitchen will complement your dining experience by making you feel you’re participating in a live culinary show. During the summer time, we also invite you to enjoy our signature dishes on an outdoor terrace.

E-mail: brasserie.moderne@sofi tel.com Tel.: +48 22 657 83 82 www.facebook.com/brasserie.moderne

Visit us Mon – Sun: 12 p.m. – 11 p.m. | 11 Królewska St | 00-065 Warsaw

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EAT! Listings (well, there’s another across the river), as you’ll discover when talking to Tony, the Lebanese owner. To see the diversity of this cuisine, order the balbaak (six cold starters) or the byblos (six hot).

And food aside, it’s the atmosphere that carries them that extra yard: the whole philosophy of this cuisine is to share and share alike, making it a uniquely engaging experience when dining with friends.

(B3) Al. Solidarności 84, tel. 22 618 8999, lecedre.pl

Cedre Lounge has a slimmer menu that introduces several new tastes to fans of Lebanese cuisine. Helplessly more-ish, it’s food that’s in line with the vibey atmosphere and casual air. (C4) ul.

Grzybowska 5A, lecedre.pl

by a skillet of fried oyster mushrooms cooked with onions and served alongside harissa topped with rose petals. You’re looking at quite a special place that realigns your mojo on an ashen Warsaw day. ul. Grójecka 127

Maghreb Featuring the casual air of good times, head to Maghreb for vibrant Moroccan classics such as merguez sausages and tajine dishes served in traditional earthenware vessels. With the first chills of winter lapping at the door, it’s a restaurant that provides solace and reassurance. ul. Burakowska 9, maghreb.pl

Sokotra Casting a warm, steamy glow over this corner of Wilcza, Sokotra is a welldesigned nook with a rough, urban edge: telegraph poles, bare bulbs and exposed lumps of concrete. Yemeni dishes are available though it’s the Indian food that shines – the Madras is intense, pungent and suitably fiery. (D5) ul. Wilcza 27, tel. 22 270 2766, sokotra.pl

Le Cedre Lounge Furnished in voluptuous Middle Eastern style, the latest subsidiary of the Le Cedre empire bursts with fancy sheesha pipes, extravagant rugs and shimmery satin drapes. It’s a look that’s fun, familiar, intimate and warm. Less encyclopedic than that of its two sister ventures, Le

Shuk Located behind Hala Banacha in this gradually blooming district of Warsaw, SHUK’s certainly worth the tram ride if you’re not a native Ochotian. An offshoot of the acclaimed Mezze, highlights on our visit included a well-seasoned Arabic soup with lentils and spinach followed

Tagine Having already scored considerable successes with Miss Kimchi and KoreaTown Rest, the same owners have spread their wings to cover a new cuisine that, so far, has been under-represented in the Polish capital: Moroccan! Specializing in

Flavours of Warsaw - traditional Polish cuisine with a distinctive modern touch. Everything is made from fresh seasonal ingredients.

Enjoy, among many others, zander sausage served with blanched broad bean and peas.

Or try our mouth watering veal dumplings in broth of dried mashrooms and truffle oil.

Or perhaps you have a taste for duck breast with bean puree with French potatoes and marinated strawberries.

To finish off delight in our home made pastries.

Restaurant and Pastry +48 22 621 82 68 Żurawia str. 47/48, Warsaw Pastry and Cafe +48 608 046 406 Felińskiego str. 52, Warsaw www.smakiwarszawy.com

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EAT! Listings traditional recipes served in tagine clay pots inside a casual interior dolled up with jam jar lights and bright, light colors.

(E3) ul. Oboźna 9 Tahina Small and lively, it’s a spot that brings together authentic Middle Eastern tastes with no quarter given: beef, for instance, is marinated for two days before being slow-cooked for 36-hours. Served in a featherlight lavash, there are those that would call this a kebab, but doing so would severely undersell the goodness in your hand. Demonstrating a fiendish attention to detail, Tahina is nothing if not characterized by its scrupulous specifics: look out for Iraqi-style scrambled eggs with dates, not to mention generous tahini bowls cascading with juicy chunks of chicken, and traditional coffee heated in a pan of sand. (C5) ul. Wilcza 26, fb.com/ TahinaWilcza

polish

Start the New Year by rediscovering Lebanese Cuisine Le Cedre Lounge Grzybowska 5A Tel 22 299 7299

Le Cedre 61

(opposite the zoo) Al. Solidarności 61, Praga Tel 22 670 1166

Le Cedre 84

(opposite the court) Al. Solidarności 84 Tel 22 618 8999

www.lecedre.pl

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Bazyliszek Some parts of Bazyliszek hark to its years as a stately, stuffy restaurant.

Now though it’s more earthy, with Jurassic portions of meaty, lardy food best consumed with one-liter beers. The Rynek location and festive atmosphere account for its popularity more than anything that comes from the kitchen.

(D1) Rynek Starego Miasto 1/3, tel. 22 831 1841, bazyliszek.waw.pl

contemporary tone that goes hand in hand with the menu. But behind the gels and emulsions and pretty little swirls, this is cooking of substantial depth; it’s cooking that takes you to the very soul of Polish nature. (F8) ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. 22 558 6701, belvedere.com.pl Bez Gwiazdek BEST WAWA 2017 “Modern Polish” BEST WAWA 2017 “Chef” While Bez Gwiazdek rejects the core principles of fine dining, don’t for one minute expect anything less than food that whispers refined sophistication. Focusing each month on a different region of the country, Robert Trzópek’s tasting menu takes diners to the very heart of the Polish soul and does so via tastes that betray his fine dining background: delicate and precise, it’s the polar opposite of the standard Polski feast.

Just when you thought you had worked out the nation’s cuisine, along comes Robert Trzópek to rewrite the rules. (E3) ul. Wiślana 8, bezgwiazdek.com.pl Bistro Pod Sowami Talk of Praga’s revival feels a bit more serious now that Bistro Pod Sowami has opened. From the outside, this corner tenement is a study in neo-gothic indulgence. On the inside, the muted elegance is perfectly partnered by the cooking of Damian Wajda. His cooking presents pre-war dishes as seen through a colorful, modern lens. (F1) ul. Okrzei 26, fb.com/bistropodsowami

Bar Gdański A refit has seen the plastic plants, putrid smells and that slow feeling of death replaced by a fresher look in keeping with the times. Despite this, the historic core of this milk bar has been retained including the daffodil colors and original floor tiles. How’s the food? Cheap. That’s probably the kindest thing you can say about it. Despite that, Gdański feels like an essential part of the community. (B1) ul. Andersa 33, fb.com/bargdanskimuranow

Ćma by Mateusz Gessler Open round-the-clock, Ćma has rescued the city’s night owls from the evil clutches of the center’s grisly kebab dens. Set against an edgy, moth-themed interior designed by guerilla artist Tomasz Górnicki, this on-trend nightspot elevates late night dining to new heights with a menu that involves modernized Polish delicacies such as sausage with horseradish emulsion, black pudding with apple and… goose stomachs. (D6) ul.

Koszykowa 63, mateuszgessler.com.pl

Belvedere Łazienki Królewskie Set in an imperial age glass orangery, it’s festooned with intricate latticework and botanical exotica. The updated interiors are the work of acclaimed set designer Boris Kudlicka, and lend a fresh,

Czerwony Wieprz An amusing restaurant that looks back at communism through a rose-tinted lens.

Under the glowering gaze of commie tyrants, staff dressed like obedient members of the party’s Youth League deliver

EAT! Listings hefty dishes from a cheeky menu that is in itself a collector’s item. (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 22 850 3144, czerwonywieprz.pl Delicja Polska Looking stately (pink bows, gilt touches and immaculate linen) but never stuffy, Delicja have a modern Polish menu that includes sous-vide salmon marinated in beetroot leaves, then topped with horseradish foam and dill emulsion. Brilliant.

But then so was everything else we tried, including the exquisite seasoned roast beef. (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 64, tel. 22 826 4770, delicjapolska.pl Dom Polski Almost like it was designed for the manor born, Dom Polski has the rarefied atmosphere of a country retreat: bow-tied staff who click their heels, decorative antiques and a menu that’s a sumptuous anthology of posh Polish cooking. When you need to give visitors a sense of classic Warsaw, Dom Polski is the first out of the hat. (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 2432, restauracjadompolski.pl Dom Polski Belwederska Accessed via curling pathways and bursting shrubs this restaurant conjures images of an aristocrat’s manor. The air of privilege matches a menu that’s rich in fanciful classics such as their signature goose. Elegant and exquisite, consider it your default choice for a taste of true Poland. (F8) ul. Belwederska 18A, tel. 22 840 5060, restauracjadompolski.pl

then a night in Folk Gospoda is the next best thing. Kitted out like a typical tavern in the Tatras, it’s a good-humored celebration of mountain-slope traditions: heaps of meat and lard with plenty of vodka and song in between. (B3) ul. Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605, folkgospoda.pl

Gospoda Kwiaty Polskie Bursting with flowers and rural touches, entering Gospoda isn’t unlike clambering inside an old granny’s attic. Cheerful in look and style, the rustic energy extends to enthusiastic portions of Polish classics.

(D1) ul. Wąski Dunaj 4/6/8, gospodakwiatypolskie.pl Kieliszki na Próżnej You’ll find Kieliszki na Próżnej, the latest restaurant to mark the rehabilitation of Próżna, so named after the 1,116 wineglasses that hang tantalizingly over the bar. As an anchor feature the suspended glassware is arresting and equaled only by a long stretch of wall art doodled by Mariusz Tarkawian. The food matches

up to the interiors, with a modern Polish menu that – on our visit – involved a thick, brilliantly spreadable foie gras pate, a thick slab of brawn and a delicate piece of moist Baltic cod. It’s pure seasonal comfort. (C3) ul. Próżna 12, tel. 501 764 674, kieliszkinaproznej.pl Klub Spatif Tip tap through the dark chambers into a bright dining room decorated with eggshell lights and vibrant greenery; from the photos on the walls, famous past guests smile down in approval. Though better known as a bar-club crossover, in daylight hours find a surprisingly brilliant menu featuring modern Polish tastes: tender piglet cheeks with curried sauerkraut, coconut milk and cilantro; marinated salmon with beetroot; and a vegan tartar made with tomatoes and black olives. It is, quite simply, a glorious hymn to natural tastes. (E5) Al. Ujazdowskie 45, klubspatif.pl LAS This rail-side communist pavilion has been transformed courtesy of a thorough makeover featuring a jungle of plants, low, muted lighting and the addition of smart charcoal colors and revamped retro fittings. As for food, then familiarize

Elixir by Dom Wódki There are some who call the food here 'deconstructed Polish'. In actuality, 'reconstructed' would be closer to the mark. The chef has taken local classics and redrafted the recipes with the swoosh of a contemporary pen. The outcome is a pleasure from start to finish: a life affirming żurek, a tartar that could fulfill ambassadorial duties for Poland, and a handsome beef tenderloin sprinkled with crispy potato shavings.

Thoughtful pairings with lesser-known, boutique vodkas add another dimension that serves to complete this pleasing, patriotic adventure. (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl Folk Gospoda If you missed the last train to Zakopane,

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Traditional Polish Cuisine,

Ĺťurek

(traditional sour rye soup)

Golonka

(roast pork knuckle)

Placki Ziemniaczane

(potato pancake with gulash)

We serve Polish dishes on hot pans and sizzling cast iron and are winners of many culinary competitions Hand making our own pierogi since 1913 Pierogi Truskawkowe Strawberry dumplings

but don’t miss the pierogi OUR LOCATIONS IN WARSAW U L . K R A KO W S K I E P R Z E D M I E Ś C I E 5 5 | T E L . 2 2 6 9 2 7 2 0 4 U L . N O W Y Ś W I AT 6 4 | T E L . 2 2 6 9 2 4 1 3 5 AL. JEROZOLIMSKIE 28 | TEL. 22 826 7484 U L . F R E TA 1 | T E L . 2 2 8 3 1 6 1 9 0 UL. ŚWIĘTOJAŃSKA 13 | TEL. 22 635 6109 U L . F R E TA 1 8 | T E L . 2 2 6 3 5 7 9 5 9

EAT! Listings yourself with Anna Klajmon. Having made her bones at Grunt i Woda, her farm-to-fork philosophy has followed her here. Cooking with an air of freedom, there’s a natural goodness to her menu that belies the modest pricing.

Highly seasonal, on our visit that meant gorgeous oxtail pierogi with peanut butter and hazelnut sauce. Don’t miss the ‘local cocktails’, either. (F4) ul. Solec 44, fb.com/ las.warszawa Mała Polana Smaków Looking warm and woodsy, this super small restaurant has emerged to become a major figure on the national restaurant scene thanks to their skilled interpretation of seasonal tastes and regional produce. Consistent in their delivery, expect full satisfaction from a menu that presents rejigged versions of Polish heroes such as herring or dumplings.

Newsflash: watch out for the imminent opening of a sister restaurant on Emili Plater. (F9) ul. Belwederska 13/44, tel. 22 400 8048, polanasmakow.pl Podwale Piwna Kompania Prowling mountain bands generate a beer hall atmosphere, while the courtyard garden – designed to replicate a Mitteleuropa square – is one of the best you’ll find. But the obscene portions can’t mask what is pretty poor food. Go there for the experience, if nothing else. (D2) ul.

Podwale 25, tel. 22 635 6314, podwale25.pl

Prasowy Delicate diners turn their back on milk bars, yet this canteen-style phenomenon, with its history rooted in communism, has enjoyed a remarkable renaissance and a freshly found popularity with a new generation. Sure, the food is an acquired taste and best described using words like ‘basic’, ‘bland’ and ‘honest’, but Prasowy gets our vote for a cool design that’s seen the 1954 interiors sensitively updated.

(E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16 Restauracja Polska “Różana” The rarified atmosphere of Różana is a pleasure indeed. Close to the frontline of Mokotów / Śródmieście, you’d never guess the proximity of the center. Seated in their garden, one feels removed from the city – a fountain burbles quietly in the background, starlings hop around the trees. From the inside, one hears the distant tinkle of the house pianist. Just being here is a thrill in itself, and the food is a Polish dining extravaganza served from the top table: farmhouse duck, saddle of venison, etc. (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 22 848 1225, restauracjarozana.com.pl Schabowy Red gingham tablecloths are just about the only decorative element in this plain Jane restaurant; aesthetics don’t figure highly, and that much is clear through an approach to plating presentation that’s best described as basic. But boy, they can

Living legend in the Warsaw’s center Bar / Restaurant / Scene

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Stary Dom A classic restaurant in style and history: back in the day it was a favorite haunt of jockeys and race goers from the horse track nearby. Pre-war recipes form the basis of the menu, with the team using seasonal produce and the latest technology to bring out its best. ul. Puławska 104/106, tel. 22 646 4208, restauracjastarydom.pl

Stolica Set in one of Old Town’s smaller, lesser-known squares, Stolica charms with its pre-war, slightly formal ambiance: pristine white tablecloths and spotless mirrors combine with classic Warsaw tunes to generate a storybook atmosphere straight from the pages of Tuwim and Gombrowicz. Food-wise, you’re looking at typically local dishes such as venison marinated in bison grass vodka.

(D1) ul. Szeroki Dunaj 1/3, restauracjastolica.com Talerzyki It sounds a little absurd, but Talerzyki manage the implausible by Polonizing the concept of tapas and coming up trumps. Fiercely Polish in spirit, the menu looks to revive the essence of inter-war Warsaw with its selection of classic recipes presented in scaled-down form: blood pudding with apple and cinnamon; beef tongue and horseradish; and white sausage with fermented flour sauce. It sounds glum and gory but its anything but – and the style mavens of Mokotowska appear to agree. (D6) ul. Mokotowska 33/35

Al. Ujazdowskie 45

cook – simple but delicious, the food here is Polish home cooking at its best: great ingredients used to even greater effect.

As the name suggests, schabowy is the star, and here you’ll find it served in three different forms. ul. Obrzeżna 1, fb.com/ schabowy.warszawa

U Fukiera New arrivals looking to get a grasp of local cuisine have many options in varying price brackets. U Fukiera is definitely in the big spend category, but visitors come away with a common sense of wonder-

EAT! Listings ment. That’s largely due to enchanting interiors that have guests exploring twinkling chambers that unravel like a fairytale. Set in a 500-year-old townhouse, the beautiful backdrop is accompanied by a grand menu of duck, venison, veal and lamb. (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 27 (Old Town Market Square), tel. 22 831 1013, ufukiera.pl U Szwejka Named after the fictional Czech soldier Szwejk, the food here would certainly appeal to the tubby man himself. Served in an interior bestowed with Prague street signs, the food is a hardy, meaty affair, and arrives in XXXL portions. The price to quantity ratio guarantees queues (yes, queues) that stretch out on the street every weekend – but you have to wonder why. (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1710, uszwejka.pl Warszawski Sen By Mateusz Gessler A quite stunning restaurant dominated

by dark geometric patterns and the installations and ideas of guerilla artist Tomasz Górnicki. Once you’ve caught your breath and snapped off a few pics for your Instagram, settle in for a menu that gives Polish ingredients a highly contemporary treatment. If you thought Hala Koszyki was buzzing, then this edgy space is perhaps its biggest buzz of all. ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki), mateuszgessler.com.pl

Zapiecek Seven Warsaw locales, with our favorite found in the vaulted passages of Świętojańska. The menu is highly traditional, with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’. It’s for the pierogi though for which they’re famous; find approx. fifty types delivered by servers dressed like saucy country maids.

Locations inc. ul. Nowy Świat 64, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska 13, tel. 22 635 61 09, & ul.

Wańkowicza 1, zapiecek.eu Zielony Niedźwiedź A sanctuary of elegant fancy, it’s a place of long, dark shadows and discreet decorative touches: From the outset, you’re made to feel that good things will happen, and this they do. Certified by Poland’s fledgling slow food movement, the menu gives star billing to the suppliers that keep the pantry full; but the truth is these aren’t the only heroes.

Taking the reins in June, new chef Oliwia Bernady has grown in stature and skill preparing a daily tinkered menu that opens your eyes to the real tastes of Poland. (E4) ul. Smolna 4, tel.

795 794 784, kafezn.pl Zoni Housed in a former vodka distillery, the immense interior reveals cast iron kilns,

Jana Moliera 4/6 22 826 5958 moliera@sakana.pl www. sakana.pl

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EAT! Listings flooring made from recovered vodka barrels and numerous post-industrial pieces that have been lovingly restored.

But the real talking point in Aleksander Baron, a chef nationally known for his devotion to local ingredients and little-known techniques. We loved the tomato assiette, not to mention a T-bone heavier than an artillery round. Aged in such a way as to allow aspergillus mushrooms to grow into the meat, it’s a glorious piece of cooking that makes the heart roar. And dessert? A chilled sphere of calf brain mousse the incorporates vanilla, brown butter and caramel. So far, there’s been no better launch this year. (G1) Pl. Konesera 1, muzeumpolskiejwodki.pl

scandinavian Nabo The décor is, we’re told, typical Danish cafe – bold open windows, simple lines, high shelves filled with books and games on the table. But what is Danish food? There’s Old Danish on the menu: meatballs and open face sandwiches with meat and fish in various textural configurations and then there’s New Danish: an emerging trend towards fresh, seasonal food with locally sourced and innovatively concocted ingredients. ul. Zakręt 8, tel. 22 842 0256, nabocafe.pl

seafood

L’Arc French in style, seafood dominates the menu of L’Arc with the lobster and oysters a particular standout. Enjoy it inside a classic interior that feels assuredly upscale. (E8) ul. Puławska 16, larc.pl Lokal na Rybę Open just three days a week, the limited hours have created a supply / demand situation which sees this basic-looking venue often packed out. The menu is revised on a weekly basis though never really goes beyond three starters and a couple of mains – but that’s all they need to captivate the public. In recent times, octopus goulash and smoked herring pierogi have played distinctive roles. (D9) ul. Kwiatowa 1/3/4, fb.com/lokalnarybe U Rysia Devoid of frills bar a glowing neon sign and a brooding mural of Jesus, it looks like a Polish fish restaurant should – basic but with an undercurrent of bustle that keeps the mood bright. It tastes like the real thing as well. Sourcing their catch

from the freshwater lakes of northern Poland, the offer is divided into fish that have been smoked, steamed, fried or baked. Check out the perch ‘chips’ fried in batter. (C4) ul. Marszałkowska 140 (enter from ul. Rysia), urysia.com.pl

specialty food shops Bazar Olkuska Once a sad little side street, Olkuska has evolved to become just about the worst kept secret in Warsaw. Home to the city’s top eco-market, trips here end with shopping bags filled with French cheeses, Italian hams, Hungarian sausages and fresh fruit and veg. (E10) ul. Olkuska 12 Befsztyk The Prokopowicz family has come a long way since launching Befsztyk in 1994. Top restaurants, celebs and ex-pats are listed as clients, and all agree that this operation is indisputably ‘top of the chops’. Find steaks seasoned for three weeks, glutenfree smoked meats, Merino lamb, BBQ kits and so much more. Home delivery, internet ordering and English-speaking staff round out this legend. many locations, befsztyk.pl BioBazar With its previous home in Wola undergoing a substantial redevelopment, the BioBazar has moved to Mokotów. At the forefront of Poland’s food revolution, it’s a place that shines a light on ecologically certified goods and produce. Fresh fish, cheese, eggs, bread, cured sausages, honey... on it goes. Comprehensive in its pitch, everything you need to pursue a bright, happy life is here on this spot. ul.

Wołoska 3, biobazar.com.pl (B4) ul. Żelazna 51/53, biobazar.org.pl Dobrze Co-op The Dobrze Food Co-op aims to ‘widen access to healthy, seasonal food’ while also supporting sustainable agriculture.

Founded in summer, 2014, the project collaborates with over 20 farms and local businesses and sells fresh vegetables and fruit alongside cereals, dried goods and other bits and pieces. ul. Wilcza 29A & ul. Andersa 27, dobrze.waw.pl

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EAT! Listings Forteca Kregliccy Spot the stars of Warsaw’s restaurant scene perusing the stalls at this weekly farmers’ market. Held each Wednesday, look for Pan Ziółko, Poland’s first celebrity farmer (!), Portobello’s from the country’s only organic mushroom farm and the magical yogurts from Mleczna Droga Manufaktura Serów. ul. Zakroczymska 12, kregliccy.eu/forteca Hala Gwardii Taking its cue from the market places of Lisbon and Marseilles, Hala Gwardii aims to reprise its former pre-war role as the city’s best-known food market. Designed to complement rather than compete with Hala Mirowska outside, the market is a sensory big bang with dozens of stalls specializing in everything from cheese and sausages, to rolled Thai ice cream and posh pet supplies. (C3) Pl. Mirowska 2, fb.com/halagwardii Kosher Shop Snuck to the side of the synagogue, stock up on Kosher produce from the friendly store, before hitting up the falafel tent outside for, aside from the obvious, kosher ice cream. (C4) ul. Twarda 6 Kram A supermarket worth your time. Putting small scale producers to the fore, find veggies courtesy of the Majlert farm and grocer Pan Ziołko, daily deliveries from the Mąka i Woda bakery, dairy courtesy of Mleczna Droga, and several cult Polish brands such as Concept Stu Mostów. Craft beers, bio wines, and softs from the likes of Fentimans and Galvanina complete the quite extraordinary lineup. ul. Duchnicka 3, facebook.com/kram.nativeingredients

steak houses Beef n’ Pepper Beef N’ Pepper presents itself in a buzzy urban flash of violet blue lighting, slick banquette seating and open kitchen action. Straight away, you get the feeling of being in a place that’s alive and active, a feeling that’s affirmed by a busy backlit bar from behind which black-shirted staff fling sunny cocktails for the after-work

crowd. Of course, it’s the food angle that takes precedence, and at Beef N’ Pepper that translates to a decent choice of surf’n’turf. Highlights include thumping T-bones and a 60-day aged Argentinean top loin. (C5) ul. Nowogrodzka 47A, tel. 785 025 025, beefandpepper.pl Butchery & Wine The Sarf London-born Bertha oven has revolutionized the way steak is cooked, retaining moisture in a way no-one thought possible. Expect robust pieces of animal full of big, brawny tastes, but there’s so much more than just meat: starters involve a sea bass ceviche that pings with citrusy flavor not to mention more-ish pork crackling that pop like fire bangers in the mouth. A place of energy and ambition, it’s a great mix of both new and classic. Bookings advised. (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 502 3118, butcheryandwine.pl Ed Red Warszawa You can tell they’re serious about their meat just by looking at the starters: big, juicy marrow bones, mountain oysters, blood sausage and calf’s brain. The steaks are the calling card though, and here you’ll find them dry aged and consumed with the aid of hunting knives. The desserts seem a lumpy afterthought, but they get enough right elsewhere (even decent craft beer at the bar) to keep that little more than a mild annoyance. (B3) Pl. Mirowski 1, edred.pl Evil Steakhouse Already successfully established in Poznań and Szceczin, Evil look to break the recent capital city trend towards higher class steakhouses by introducing a more casual approach to the dining process. In this case, though, casual does not mean inferior: expect dinosaur portions of steak and ribs delivered straight from the grill inside a laidback, straightforward space that’s gone for a rough-industrial look. (D4) ul. Świętokrzyska 3 Hoża Wine and steak: it sounds simple, but Hoża have taken two simple pleasures to another level. It’s an ebullient space with service right out of charm school, and a kitchen team with a real knowledge of cows. A red-blooded affair, the menu is a steak sensation and well paired with a warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings handpicked wine list. (D5) ul. Hoża 25A, tel.

603 778 275, hoza.warszawa.pl Merliniego A classic looking steakhouse that swirls in shadow, brickwork and elegant touches, it’s a place to immerse yourself in an atmosphere that’s all surreptitious conversation and distant clinking glasses.

The steaks are out-of-this world, with USDA prime beef from New York’s legendary Ottomanelli & Sons and Scottish beef from London’s Smithfield Market.

On our last visit we splurged on the Grade 9+ wagyu ‘kobe’ rib-eye and found ourselves eating the steak of a lifetime.

Simply amazing. (E10) ul. Merlineiego 5, merliniego.pl

street food Hala Gwardii Housed in a red brick hall dating from the Tsarist era, Gwardii opens up as a sensory big bang of smell, taste, sight and sound. Framed by a market on one side, and food units on the other, it’s a catch-all social solution that shines the spotlight on independent vendors offering various cuisines Warsaw ain’t seen before. In terms of tenants, big changes have happened – and continue to happen.

Bye to Keboom, Melt, and countless other editorial faves, hello to the superb Gorilla

Coffee. Of the new additions, we’ve been told Ye Ye Mex will be entering anytime soon. (C3) Pl. Mirowska 2, halagwardii.pl Hala Koszyki Nirvana for the aspirational classes, careful surgery has preserved the heritage of this early 20th century marketplace and juxtaposed it against the urban tapestry of modern Warsaw. Appealing to everyone from foodies and families to Instagram scenesters, its success has sparked a nationwide wave of doubles and duplicates. But despite their best efforts, none come close to feeling quite so global. Not ones to stand still, May saw the addition of a narrow indoor avenue towards the back flanked on each side by busy street food stalls. Walking around Koszyki, find all from Korean noodles, Spanish tapas, Mexican burritos, Greek kebabs and so much more. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63, koszyki. com Postępu 5 How to describe it? Think Hala Koszyki for the Vice generation. Dubbed Mordor by those working there, the office-heavy district around Domaniewska has no shortage of detractors, but they’ve thinned in number since the launch of Postępu 5.

Gathering cult street food outlets under one industrial roof, you’ll be choosing from Japanese hot dogs, Georgian chinkali, Russian blini and God knows what else as more make the migration

to this trending address. ul. Postępu 5, postepu5.pl Targ Śniadaniowy You could well argue that it was Targ Śniadaniowy that originally kicked-off Warsaw’s street food revolution. Despite the name (which, if you don’t know, translates to mean The Breakfast Market), it’s more than just a morning feed. Running through the afternoon, this weekend legend is a little bit of everything: park picnic, food market, music space – you might even find someone to fix your two-wheeler. Various locations, targsniadaniowy.pl

thai

San Thai Informal, airy surrounds; fair price points; and a menu that covers enough bases while never becoming overwhelming.

Surprisingly great cocktails add to the impression that this street is taking off as something of a scene. (C3) ul. Próżna 10, restauracjasanthai.pl Thai Thai A visual feast of ink black colors and shimmering deities this is by far the most formal of Warsaw’s Thai options – and also the best. Peaks include a grilled beef salad full of citrusy twists, lively flavors and vibrant colors, and sundried pork neck that’s all manly crunch and nose-clearing sauce. And then there’s the tuna tartar, a dish zinging with fresh hits of coriander, mint, lime and chili. There’s no point in complimenting the chef, he’s heard it all before. (C2) Pl. Teatralny 3, tel.

601 818 283, thaithai.pl Thaisty The most successful business model pioneered in recent years? That’s the work of Thaisty, a bright, cheerful spot with a ‘street style’ and moderate prices – queues, at times, stretch out the door.

Vivid colors and a busy open kitchen lend the place a happy buzz that lasts through the day, yet despite this many have voiced concerns that Thaisty’s runaway success

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EAT! Listings has come at a cost to the overall quality.

Even so, the BBQ skewers remain a good order. (C2) Pl. Bankowy 4, tel. 730 000 024, thaisty.pl Why Thai A calming, almost holistic interior sets the tone for a meal dominated by the rich and aromatic tastes of Thailand. For a lively, spicy start begin with a mango and cashew salad, before moving forward and onto their celebrated curries. Imported chefs keep the flavors authentic, with the pad Thai being something of a house favorite. (E5) ul. Wiejska 13, tel. 22 625 7698, whythai.pl

ukrainian Kanapa This swish villa is a thoughtful essay in understated elegance: antique and classy, yet with enough eclectic touches to that add that little sense of home. The food fits the backdrop with cooking that feels adventurous in style yet traditional in its taste. The borscht, presented in a huge, hollowed out cabbage, incorporates cooked beetroot, stewed pears and plums, chunks of meat and a wallop of sour cream – these rich and raucous flavors are offset by highly sophisticated alternatives such as blobs of pike caviar and oyster cream on a delicate, crispy fish skin. (E8) ul. Narbutta 10, fb.com/kanapa. restauracja

vegan & wholefood Edamame Vegan Sushi Sushi without its star ingredient sounds ridiculous, but this vegan sushi joint manages to out-manoeuver its traditional competitors by replacing below-par fish with fresh, vegetarian produce: sugar snap peas, radish, carrots, asparagus, etc. The results are both magical and addictive, and leave you wondering if vegan sushi stands to be Warsaw’s next trend. (D5) ul. Wilcza 11, edamame.pl Eden Housed inside (and outside!) a modernist

villa, Eden is by far the most exciting vegan launch for some time. Eat in a secluded courtyard garden complete with its own greenhouse, or indoors in a super cool space that feels arty and avant garde but also laidback and homey. Handled by Michał Gniłka (he’s cooked for Keanu Reeves!), the food front involves grilled corn and avocado ceviche, ‘DIY’ grilled oyster mushroom tacos, and Malaysian-style laksa with sea buckthorn. As for drinks, choose from third wave coffees, organic wines and a whole host of inventive house drinks. So far, everyone agrees that it’s a place to treasure. (G3) ul. Jakubowska 16, edenbistro.pl Falafelove Cramped, sweaty and uncomfortable, Falafelove’s customers choose to overlook the aesthetic shortcomings for one very special reason: this is falafel that sets a new benchmark. Recommended is the spicy wrap, comprising of ‘red falafel’, humus, harissa, sundried tomatoes and tahini. If there’s space, join the others on the terrace outside. (C2) ul.

Senatorska 40 Falla Both pricing and location combine to keep this venue blocked solid with a muddled mass of students from the uni nearby. Looking simple, maybe even spartan, crowds flock to this corner unit for recipes inspired by the Middle East and Asia: huge wraps tightly packed with pungent kimchi; generous pans brimming with shakshouka; and an array of hummus in unfamiliar forms – chipotle, coriander, carrot and more. (E3) ul. Oboźna 9, fb.com/falla.wawa Krowarzywa Tatts, hats and plaid shirts aplenty in Krowarzywa: a survivor of the hipster era, for many it’s the epitome of Warsaw’s vegan scene. The burgers set a benchmark that all but a few fail to surpass. (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 27/35, tel.

881 777 894 ul. Hoża 29/31, krowarzywa. pl ul. Hoża 29/31, krowarzywa.pl Kuchnia Konfliktu First came a food truck, then a cargo container. Now, Kuchnia Konfliktu have a legit address they can finally call home. First founded to provide work

for refugees fleeing conflict zones, this social project has won acclaim not just for social initiative, but more importantly its food. With employees hailing from the likes of Iran, Afghanistan, Chechnya and Iraq, prepare to dive deep into the exotic.

Full review next issue. (D5) ul. Wilcza 60

Leonardo Verde Geometric patterns, plant arrangements and the large format illustrative artwork of Dominique A. Faryno decorate Leonardo Verde, an upmarket – but inexpensive – Italian joint. Pizza is the forte – order the ‘hot romantic’, a combo featuring chili, avocado and tabasco. (D5) ul. Poznańska 13, fb.com/leonardo.verde.restaurant Lokal Vegan Bistro Aside from a small menu consisting of more standard vegan offers, Lokal keep Homer Simpson characters in mind with regular guest slots for street food that’s given a full vegan makeover.

Offhand, that’s meant vegan kebabs, cheesesteaks, burgers and zapiekanka, all of which have been pretty damn good.

(D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, 517 615 122 Momencik Steamy, tight and sweaty, this pokey subterranean cavern has one key thing going for it: burritos that outrank the majority of ‘proper Mexicans’ in town.

The salsas, too, are magnificent (ooh, pineapple), arguably the best in the city.

(D5) ul. Poznańska 16 Tel Aviv “People shouldn’t be excluded from high standards just because they’ve chosen the vegan path,” says Malka Kafka, the owner of Tel Aviv. As such, find a plant-based menu that gives the tastes of Israel a fancy schmancy style – so fancy that Depeche Mode ate here last summer! (D5) ul. Poznanska 11, restauracjatelaviv.pl Vegan Ramen Shop Co-joining two fads is always a risky business – just ask Loco Mexicana. All warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings of a sudden, the focus doesn’t fall on just getting one thing right, but two. But despite this double-headed challenge Vegan Ramen have struck gold on account of their complex bowls of restorative goodness: their fan base extends way beyond the boundaries of Saska Kępa. Enjoy in a cool interior filled with cute Japanese props on dozens of ‘levitating shelves’. (G3) ul.

Finlandzka 12A Veg Deli An entrance beset with candles, plant pots and seasonal veg charms people in, and they tend to stay on to dine on creative vegetarian options that nearly always hit the spot. The tacos are a bit of a disappointment, but the quinoa burger is fabulous, and the homemade Russian pierogi an absolute highlight.

Even committed meat eaters recognize there’s something special going on here. (E3) ul. Radna 14 Youmiko Vegan Sushi Exceptional in every respect, Youmiko’s tasting menu is one of the undisputed highlights of what’s become known as the vegan square mile. “Our aim,” declares their manifesto, “is to mix traditional Japanese approaches with Polish creativity and surprise you with new textures and flavors.” Mission accomplished. (D5) ul. Hoża 62, youmiko.vg

vietnamese Oh My Pho A busy, family-run joint, OMP’s specific claim to fame is what many are terming the best and most authentic pho in the ward. Steamy and aromatic, this is pho as it should be: full of big herby thwacks, ribboning noodles, and soft strips of meat in a clear, restorative stock. Often cited as being the ‘soul of the nation’, just a few noisy slurps are all that’s needed to corroborate the life-affirming goodness of this beautiful broth... (D5) ul. Wilcza 32, fb.com/ohmyphowilcza

feels enjoyable and authentic in equal measure: start with duck and mango spring rolls before moving onto mains such as crispy, sticky chicken in tamarind sauce. (B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, ukim.pl

Toan Pho Toan Pho’s bowls of soup with rice noodles come highly recommended; as does the chaos intrinsic to this type of casual Asian eatery. The short menu is in Vietnamese with Polish decoding – although you can ask for an English version. (D4) ul. Chmielna 5/7

Vietnamka BEST WAWA 2017 “Casual Dining” Divey but lively, diners step down into Vietnamka to find a shouty little lair of mint green walls and wobbly wooden tables. Infused with a gentle sense of chaos (drinks after mains, mains before starters), there’s a certain charm at work that feels authentic and convincing. As for the food, you suspect that’ll be ’nam good when TV chef Kurt Scheller wonders in for a take-out. And boy, yes it is. Squiggled onto a crumpled sheet of paper, menu items include giant bowls of warming pho, steamed goat with lemongrass and more-ish spring rolls. Exceptional in every respect, the cooking here sails Warsaw’s Asian scene into uncharted waters. (D5) ul.

Poznańska 7, fb.com/VietnamkaPoznanska

Ukim Though not as high profile as Warsaw’s other gastro streets, Chłodna’s emergence has been no less spectacular. But fine dining and fancy wine bars aside, it’s actually the more standard venues that make the area feel so vibrant. Take Ukim, a cheerful joint decorated with steel Tolix chairs and blooming palms. Covering vast tracts of Asia, the menu, for the most part,

Viet Street Food Bistro What started out as a roaming food truck has settled down into life as a legitimate restaurant. Widely looked upon as the source of some of the best Vietnamese chow this city’s ever seen, the small menu contains steaming bowls of pho and banh mi baguettes loaded with meat and greens: both are brill. (H4) ul. Królowej Aldony 5/2, fb.com/vietstreetfoodpl

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Warsaw Insider | JANUARY 2019

DRINK!

PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

HOME FROM HOME

It’s the size you first notice – tiny is Kawałek. More like entering a friend’s living room, think of it as living proof that it’s not just the big things in life that get noticed in Wola. In a district that’s in the process of supersizing itself as Warsaw’s new business district, this neighborhood café offers a human touch in an area rapidly filling itself with glinting glass towers and gated compounds. The warmth of welcome aside, features of this charming bolt hole include coffee sourced from cult roasters as Rocket Bean, and a homemade machine knocking out nitro coffee that’s smoother than velvet. Seated around a small communal table, type your own ode to Wola on a typewriter first bought by the owner’s grandfather.

Kawiarnia Kawałek ul. Łucka 18, fb.com/KawiarniaKawalek warsawinsider.pl

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DRINK! Review

THE SECRET IS OUT

Themed on prohibition America, Warsaw’s latest covert bar has made quite a splash…

BY ALEX WEBBER | PHOTOS BY ED WIGHT

I’M LOST!

It’s a speakeasy, hun. Unmarked from the outside, it’s a place that buys into the global trend for hidden bars: after all, who doesn’t love entering via an unidentified door. Truth be told though, it doesn’t take much persistence to gather your bearings. With the address widely published, just walk around the building till you find a likely door (clue: use your brain, maybe BackRoom could mean it’s to the back of the building?).

WHAT AM I GETTING INTO?

A real place of beauty. Designed by the celebrated Beata Michalak, you’re stepping inside a bar that from the off feels really rather special. Plush fabrics,

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muted lighting, a flickering fireplace and shelves displaying drinks as if they were trophies: the ambiance is nailed down to such an extent that those who use it for pre-club drinks often find themselves skipping the club bit altogether. Why bother with anywhere else when you can linger in BackRoom?

DO I FIT IN?

The crowd scrubs up well, so you should too: upscale casual will work. In general terms, you’re looking at a crowd in their late-20s upwards, and the kind of people who understand that a good cocktail is a bargain at zł. 30. Don’t dare think of it as a pick-up joint, but the close quarters of the venue and playful

BackRoom Warsaw ul. Koszykowa 49A, fb.com/BackRoomWarsaw

nature of the guests make accidental conversation something of an occurrence. It’s a social place – be sociable!

WHOSE SERVING?

Cocktail hounds will have seen them all before; plucked from Warsaw’s, and indeed Poland’s, top cocktail venues, these gunslingers are at the top of their craft. All braces, cufflinks and card dealing sleeve garters, these are pros that have earned their stripes. Leading them is Urszula Trochimiak (formerly of Weles), apparently the first woman in Poland to manage such a venture. The drinks are polished and accomplished, likewise the intuitive hospitality. Nothing falls short of ten out of ten.

STICK AROUND…

Why? Well, there’s a few dozen reasons but the drinks top the bill. These are masterpieces. Immaculate, imaginative and mixed with practiced expertise, find pedigree ingredients used to maximum effect. From the Insider’s hazy recollection, five stars go to the Ellington (gin, vodka, mead with mushroom essence and truffle oil – weird, but tasty weird), and the Clover Club (gin, raspberry, lemon and egg white). Leaving, expect to be clattering into things on the way out while telling the staff that you love them. Embarrassing, but that’s the human cost of a superb night out. There are some great cocktail bars in Poland, consider this one of the greatest.

There are

some great cocktail bars in Poland, consider this one of the greatest

warsawinsider.pl

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DRINK! Listings bars & pubs The Alchemist A small place with a big bag of tricks: upscale pub grub from Brit chef Ed Shellard, fancy cocktails, and a self-serve wall of beer from a choice of global brewers.

Poland’s still getting used to the idea of ‘a pint after work’, but in The Alchemist the idea of a post-office drink just seems so right. (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 3, thealchemist.pl Bar Pacyfik From Day 1 there was something that felt special about this place, and that feeling has only swelled with the progress of time. With a retro-kitsch interior delivered straight from the age of Scarface (candy floss pink, ocean blue), it’s a bar that’s dark and divey, raw and real. More than just a spot for the cool kids, there’s an inclusive atmosphere that feels positively international. As for drinks, the habanero / salsa infused Bloody Maria is a lifeaffirming gargle that sweeps through the body like an electric current – three sips and you feel like Superman. (C5) ul. Hoża 61 Beirut They’ve smashed a wall through though that’s still not enough to accommodate the crowd. Adorned with detritus inspired by the Lebanese conflict (ammox boxes, sandbags and… a bomb), by day find media types posturing by their Macs. At night, the air of cool dissolves into a wild, happy whirl of international voices. (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, beirut.com.pl

Bierhalle Having tapped their first beer eight years back, this microbrewery has morphed into a national phenomenon with outposts across the country. All Warsaw locations have a cut/paste Bavarian atmosphere, hefty wooden fittings and waitresses dressed like mountain frauleins. The drinks themselves are formulaic and nothing special. various locations, bierhalle.pl Bohemia You have to credit them for trying something different, but by going for a slick, corpo style Bohemia have completely missed ‘the essence of Czechia’. Filled with smooth wood and gleaming glass, it feels more boardroom than beer hall (actually, make that bored room). What

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goes right? The beer. Poured from a ‘tank’ system designed to maintain your beer’s freshness, it’s every bit as good as drinking straight from the tit of Pilsner’s own brew master. (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, bohemiarestaurant.pl

Central Bar The beer (supplied by Bierhalle) is fine, the cocktails are getting better, and the atmosphere is cranked to max: you get the buzzy sense that you’re in the middle of something that’s captured Warsaw’s imagination – the natural focal point of Hala Koszyki, the ever-stretching Central Bar was one of the biggest hits of 2017.

(D6) ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki)

Chłodna 25 After several closures, noise clampdowns and a change in management you’d imagine C25 to be a mere shadow of what it once was. But after a slow start the new management have rescued this listing vessel and returned it to it best. On the ground floor it’s a place of creaking floorboards and retro armchairs, while the basement gets opened for experimental music nights and improvised orchestras.

(B3) ul. Chłodna 25, klubchlodna25.pl

Elephant Belgian Pub Signposted by a jolly, dancing elephant, this Belgian pub presents its cause the moment you enter – there’s twenty or so taps laid right out in front, and to the left a fridge that’s expected to top out to cover 200 beers. The design is basic – brickwork, beer kegs and varying ephemera of the brewing trade – but it doesn’t need that much more: it’s about the beer, after all. (C1) ul. Freta 19

hit Warsaw comes as no real bombshell.

The style in Grizzly is dark and hip with the design largely limited to moody lighting, some witty murals and a bank of outdated TV sets given an artistic twist; the smoking room is great for accidental meetings with curious characters while the occasional gigs really pack a punch – it’s fast becoming the latest and loudest night in the area. (D5) ul. Wilcza 46 Hard Rock Cafe Full throttle cocktails, lively staff and a classic rock soundtrack: the energy of HRC is hard to find fault with. And on the rare occasion there is a lull in the night, use the opportunity to sniff around memorabilia that includes a black leather number once worn

by Madonna. (C5) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), hardrockcafe.pl

Jaś & Małgosia Insouciant one moment, your best friend the next, the staff at Jaś & Małgosia show the two faces of Polish service brilliantly. Reactivated a couple of years ago, this pavilion bar has a story dating back to the 60s, and a great atmosphere primed for plates of simple food, shots of vodka and bottles of local beer. A cornerstone of Muranów, the diversity of the crowd such much for the warmth of the overall atmosphere. (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 57, klubjasimalgosia.pl

Kosmos – Inne Beczki Craft beer, pizza, late nights and DJs! In a nutshell, that’s Kosmos. Attracting the kind of crowd you’d anticipate (trend aware 20/30-somethings), it’s the kind of place where a dull time is rare. (D5) ul. Poznanska 24

Gram Head up the stairs from Warmut (see Cocktails) to uncover Gram, a small room designed to evoke the feeling of stepping inside a circus tent. Set with arcade games (Pac-Man! Space Invaders!!), it’s a super fun space with a fridge of craft beers and quirky little details: look up and you’ll find monkey figures parachuting from the ceiling! You are, in effect, inside a playground for adults. (D6) ul.

Kraken Rum Bar Named after one of the ocean’s most feared mythical creatures (the scary squid from Pirates of the Caribbean), the wood-clad Kraken features a wall of cymbals, heavy furniture and some interesting photography. While there’s some decent bottles of rum, there’s perhaps not enough to justify calling it a rum bar. The place rocks though. (D5)

Marszałkowska 45/49

ul. Poznańska 12, fb.com/KrakenRumBar

Grizzly Gin Bar More prone than ever to global trends, news that the international gin revival has

Legends Over the years Legends has earned a legendary status amongst the expats

DRINK! Listings and Anglophiles. Their cause is helped by touches such as a proper darts board, Sky Sports and a traditional menu that’s as authentically English as the Downing Street cat. Presiding over it all is Graham, a seasoned expat and Everton nut. (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, legendsbar.pl

Między Nami With 18 years of service under their belt you may think of Między Nami as being an antiquated has-been. Not so. Haunted by a mix of media types and local characters, this hip white piece of post-commie Warsaw has an enduring, almost timeless appeal. (D4) ul. Bracka 20, miedzynamicafe. com

Miejsce Chwila Surviving the move from their former digs is the giant mural of a weatherworn babcia, and it’s under her watery gaze that drinkers congregate to make the most of a decent fridge generously stocked with specialty beers from Poland’s more leftfield producers. Also successfully enduring the challenges of their cross-city move is the underlying spirit that made them so famous.

Defiantly arty in its character, the creative mood that prevails manifests itself in a quirky design that involves retro accents, refurbed armchairs, a neon of Lennon and the compelling illustrations of Izabela Wójtowicz. (D5) ul. Żurawia 47 Plan B Plan B is the very essence of dive Warsaw.

Weekends pass by in a raucous blur, with the party spilling out under the colonnades outside – it helps to look like a DJ, but in truth everyone is welcome.

The hangover from this shabby, grubby bar is traumatic. (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), planb.pl

Przystań Nowa Fala If nothing else, 2018 will be remembered as the year the Wisła finally kicked-on to go more upmarket. Playing more than a bit part in all that is Przystań, a gorgeous, moored vessel with ample seating both inside and out. On the first level, order from a bar well-stocked with craft beers, world wines and funky cocktails, before heading to the open upstairs deck to join a fun, cosmopolitan crowd stretched out under the stars. (E2) Bulwar Gen. George’a Smitha Pattona

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Sheesha Lounge Providing you don’t mind sharing the weekend with some of the most gloriously gorgeous people in the city, then a trip to Sheesha ticks all the boxes.

Presenting itself in a whirl of action, the exotic, clubby atmosphere hits fever pitch come the midnight hour. Earlier, soak up the atmosphere with a scented hookah while lounging under eastern lights.

(D5) Al. Jerozolimskie 33, sheesha.pl

Stixx It takes a moment to allow the sheer magnitude of Stixx sink in. Having adjusted to the wow factor of the interior – which can best be described as cosmopolitan-industrial – most retreat to the long, all weather deck which in itself is quite something: the aesthetics are such that a cocktail party on an oligarch’s yacht comes to mind. There aren’t many better places for a drink when the roof is rolled back and the stars twinkle above.

(A4) Pl. Europejski 4A, tel. 22 340 4040, stixx.pl

Świetlica Long and narrow, dark and murky, it’s as raw as they come: toilets of grubby menace, a smoking room clad in spray art, broken fittings and general gloom.

Basically, it’s everything you demand from the last bar of the night – a place where you can slide into the shadows and watch the world spin around. (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 17 W Oparach Absurdu Hidden under Persian rugs, velvety drapes and reclaimed antiques, some still refer to it as The Spider Bar in reference to the giant tarantula that once hung from the wall. There’s an air of louche 60s living here, and it gets weirder when bands with names like the Bum Bum Orchestra enter to play trumpets amongst vodka-tipping guests. (F1) ul. Ząbkowska 6, oparyabsurdu.pl

Worek Kości A celebration of both the burlesque and bizarre, Worek Kości is the bar Edgar Allan Poe would create were he raised from the dead. A lively evening hangout with ad-libbed cocktails and an unconventional program of events, you’re as likely to visit during an open-mic night as you are a discussion on Silesian serial killers. This fascination with the morbid

DRINK! Listings and macabre manifests itself by way of a quirky design featuring hundreds of skulls and book shelves lined with the complete works of Stephen King. (E7) ul. Bagatela 10 Wozownia Founded by the same people behind the ‘ruin bar’ inside the original Hala Koszyki (back when it was a decrepit pile of wobbly, black stonework), Wozownia brings together the hip and beautiful inside a 200-year-old carriage house. The beer front is pretty dull, but the cocktails can be outstanding whilst the Prosecco is pretty much the cheapest glass of bubbles you’ll uncover in the city. A sensation over summer, it’s one of the top pre-club spots in the center. Pl. Trzech Krzyży 16

cafés Być Może It’s all about artisan bread and breakfast in the industrial looking Być Może. It’s taken the concept of Charlotte (groan, there’s even a communal table), and improved it with excellent breads and a crowd that’s a little less pleased with itself. (E7) ul. Bagatela 14, bycmoze.com.pl Charlotte Menora If the air is smug and self-satisfied, there’s a good reason for that: Charlotte have come to embody modern urban Poland: energetic, ambitious and ferociously trend conscious. And to think, some look at it as a mere bakery. Occupying a long space, the latest outpost of this café chain doesn’t overlook the area’s Jewish heritage, with the menu featuring several Jewish delicacies: the bagels are ok. (C4) Pl. Grzybowski 2, bistrocharlotte.pl Coffeedesk Looking flawless in her pearl white colors, Coffeedesk is a place that does it right.

Brewed by expert coffeeologists, the humble cup of Joe becomes an object of adoration. Populated round-the-clock by head-phoned freelancers and digital nomads tapping into their Macs, it’s a light, bright spot with a dynamic style and a keen sense of sexy. (D5 ul. Wilcza 42, fb. com/coffeedeskwilcza

Cophi So small you get the idea you could fit

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Cophi into the palm of your hand, yet no other place in Warsaw is more devoted to sourcing the best coffees in the world. (D5)

in a soothingly calm courtyard garden stacked with gargoyles and other historic elements. (D1) Rynek Starego Miasto

ul. Hoża 58/60

40, lapidariumcafe.com

Dobro & Dobro Cafe Measuring just six square meters (record attendance: 12 customers!), the tiniest cafe in Poland has grown into a cult stopoff for people looking to do something wacky. If you’re into karma, then buy a suspended coffee – order a coffee in advance for a stranger, write a personal message and then hang the cup from a string. (E8) ul. Puławska 11, fb.com/dobrocafe FatWhite_CoffeeBar Attached to a super cool barber shop (tatts, beards, crazy whiskers!), this tiny café has a beauty of an interior: swan white with surfaces graced by contemporary artwork that references the Muranów district and dozens of collectible superhero figures (plus a gun-toting Pacino). There’s a real scene going on here, with daylight hours usually packing out with social media types and urban fashionistas. Disarmingly friendly, it’s somewhere near the top of the Insider’s ‘must visit’ cafes. (C1) ul. Andersa 6

Krem A chic city center hangout with all the swanky, urban elegance of the 8th arrondisement. Opened by the same team behind Monsieur Leon, find their latest little baby decorated with monochrome tiles, marble-topped tables, and retro-styled mirrors. A place of hip sophistication and laid-back vibe, the menu is built around French cheeseboards, raclette and super sexy baguettes.

(D6) ul. Śniadeckich 18

Ministerstwo Kawy Sourcing their coffee from Koppi, an internationally acclaimed Swedish roasting house, the ministry takes no short cuts in their pursuit of excellence.

Utilizing Ethiopian, Costa Rican and Brazilian arabicas – some exclusive to Poland – barista Wojciech Rzytki has earned a reputation across Poland for his expert hand. Rave reviews are standard and appropriate. (D6) ul. Marszałkowska

Forum Born with Instagram in mind, Forum has it all: super cool Afro-haired staff, a fashionably frayed interior, and a devoted client base that’s all about out-sized headphones and razor-thin laptops.

Changing weekly, the big pull is a menu of specialty coffees from acclaimed roasters such as Five Elephant and The Coffee Collective fixed up by Poland’s AeroPress and Brewers Cup champion. (C3) ul. Elektoralna

27, ministerstwokawy.pl

11, forum.coffee

(E9) ul. Puławska 48

Lapidarium It’s high time that the Old Town Square had a café worth visiting, but would have thought that it would be a museum providing such? Run under the aegis of the Museum of Warsaw, visitors choose from rustic meals prepped locally by Gospoda Kwiaty Polskie, regional beers, Polish wine from Mierzęcin Palace and tea courtesy of Harney & Sons. Enjoy these in minimalistic vaulted interiors or

Relaks Expertly prepared, right down to the foam art, the baristas here use the finest imported machines and work only with fair trade, ‘specialty’ coffee. If you have time, the drip coffees are more than worth the wait. The crowded interiors supply a retro accent, and are enjoyed by a fashion aware, laptop-touting crowd.

Relax Na Wilczej Characterized by structured simplicity, it’s a venue that maximizes space and light. Never overly complex, clean lines of vision are interrupted only by a scattering of coffee tomes and a statement mural

by Mariusz Tarkawian. Calm and intuitive, it’s an interior that feels both effective and efficient. And as for the coffee: one sip and you’re hooked. Order the silky smooth nitro. (D5) ul. Wilcza 17, fb.com/ RelaxNaWilczej

Stor Buying their coffee from revered roasters

DRINK! Listings such as Berlin’s Bonanza and Stockholm’s Drop Coffee, Stor have grown to become a giant presence on Warsaw’s café map. Visitors bask in natural light amid outbreaks of greenery and quirky design touches: time runs away here and before you know it hours have passed. ul. Tamka 33, fb.com/storcafe

atmosphere crackles – moving towards the bar, slinky, sultry club creatures of unfathomable beauty prowl past with drinks poised in hand. Heating up gradually as the night progresses, Ritual moves organically from being a voluptuous bar to a spicy club as the night ebbs towards its heady conclusion. (D3) ul. Mazowiecka

12, ritualwarsaw.com

clubs Enklawa Forget Tinder, Enklawa is the best pick-up joint around – a classic kitschy, glitzy disco, it draws in huge crowds with a simple lineup of pop and dance hits. Still regarded as the best Wednesday night in Warsaw, it’s the place for singletons looking for a one-night confidence boost.

(D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, enklawa.com

Luztro Don’t sit down, you won’t know what you might catch. Dark and generally filthy, Warsaw’s most (in)famous club only gets going around about three. As the hours click towards daybreak, the scenes of depravity are like something from Sodom and Gomorrah. Enjoyed by zombies that quite definitely don’t have to be up for work anytime in the next 48 hrs, it’s not just the full-on techno that will leave the brain rattling – it’s the craziest night in Poland! (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, luztro.pl N58 The latest entry on Warsaw’s club circuit have issued a manifesto promising deep vocal house, r’n’b, mash-ups and theme nights centered around Afro Beats / trap / twerk and hip hop. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58 No Comment A secret world for those In The Know, find No Comment in a seedy-looking tower under Poniatowski Bridge. Clad in decadent, blue velvety surfaces, this tiny bi-level club feels redolent of an afterhours Parisian members club: everyone seems to know each other, and after a bottle of bubbles you will as well. (F4) Al. 3 Maja 16/18A, Most Poniatowskiego

Ritual Looking dark and sensual, this two-level space unwraps before you like some elaborate adventure. Candles flicker,

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Sen Entering this top-floor joint, visitors are hit by a tidal wave of gorgeousness: wallto-wall with George Clooney lookalikes, off-duty celebrities and catwalk glamor pusses, the carefree hedonism is like something from a film – only tonight, you’re one of the stars. Sod the bank account, you think, bring me champagne: enjoy just that on a terrace deck slung with Edison bulbs, or indoors in an area festooned with deluxe sofas and floor-toceiling windows that stare out onto the National Stadium opposite. The good life doesn’t get any better. (F4) ul. Wioślarska 6 Smolna 38 Hated by the selfie mob (guests have to cover their phones with a sticker), rated by everyone else, Smolna’s nights have grown to become legend. Pete Tong, Simian Mobile Disco and Hercules & Love Affair have all played in the past, which says much for the management’s ambition. (E4) ul. Smolna 38, smolna38.com Spatif The varied music policy shines a light on a revolving schedule of sounds, pinning its attention on everything from jazz and soul to Britpop and electro.

Spread across a series of chambers decorated with vintage fittings, parquet floors and wood-paneled walls, Spatif’s main success lies in replicating that fun, spontaneous feel of a house party that’s spiraled out of control: no matter their individual back story, everyone gets on (and occasionally gets off). Just about the most unpretentious club night you’ll find, this labyrinthine pre-war tenement feels fun, diverse and never up its own arse.

The View Occupying the upper levels of a skyscraper, The View is a place of bubbles and beauties and all things glam. A world class venue, past crowd pullers include Bob Sinclair and David Morales.

In summer, the glam and the gorgeous won’t be seen anywhere but the open air rooftop deck: it’s pure NYC. (C4) ul. Twarda 18, theview.pl

cocktails 6 Cocktails If 6 Cocktails has the feeling of hanging around someone’s flat that’s because, actually, you are. This posh Mokotowska apartment has been re-adapted as an exclusive bar frequented by leggy models and society figures: the parties are nuts!

Unmarked from street level, to enjoy the inventive cocktails message them on FB and await your invite. (E5) ul. Mokotowska 57 Ceviche Bar The ‘bar’ bit in the name isn’t a deceit, it’s there for a reason: here, the design, DJs and drinks work seamlessly to generate an ambiance that’s buzzy, energetic and something of a scene. Yet though the cocktails have long been celebrated, the ante’s been upped by a new ‘Nikkei’ card that combines Peruvian and Japanese techniques and ingredients. Of the standouts, none earn higher praise than the Matero, a mix of Japanese yuzu citruses and Pisco infused with Yerba Mate. You won’t stop at one. (C4) ul. Twarda 4, cevichebar.pl

Charlie Crowd: glam & vampy. The venue: equally so. Occupying the first floor of a pre-war tenement, there’s a magic here that summons the age of F. Scott Fitzgerald – Gatsby would love it. The ace in the pack is a ‘subconscious menu’ from which clients order mystery cocktails based on their scent. (E6) ul. Mokotowska 39 El Koktel It’s bars like this that lend Warsaw’s cocktail scene weight and substance. Set within the historic stamping ground of the pre-war Wedel dynasty, rely on this place to pour out scintillating cocktails to a dolled-up crowd of local players. Adjusted for the season, the menu features global modern classics and local creations such as God Save The Quince. With the weather getting parky, pay heed to warm concoctions such as Hot Marzipan Rum served with spiced syrups and marzipan

DRINK! Listings butter. (D4) ul. Górskiego 9 Long Bar Decked out with smooth marble, natural oak, striking art and soft tan leather, it’s a venue that writes a new chapter in the 160-year story of the venerable Europejski Hotel. Luxurious while never being excessive or ostentatious, there’s a calming sense of class that feels elegant yet relaxed: expensive, yes, prohibitive, no.

Intuitive service, sophisticated drinks and an interior that feels timeless yet historic in equal measure – for the full Raffles experience, order from their choice of signature Slings. (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13 (Raffles Europejski), raffles. com/warsaw

models of local landmarks that hang from the ceiling. Instagram them now before everyone else does. And don’t forget to head up the stairs to their cool little sister, Gram (see Bars). (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 45/49

Weles Named after the Slavic god of the underworld, everything about Weles evokes the spirit of indulgence: a zinc 1920s ceiling imported from the States, a crystal chandelier and a wooden bar carved from a British carousel. A work of refined craftsmanship, the cocktails stand out as the most sophisticated in the city.

side passage), czesc.waw.pl

Czeska Baszta Contained within a grotty bridge support, divey Czeska is permanently immersed in a foggy, yellow glow. Boisterous but extremely friendly, there’s a reason for all the man hugs and back slaps: everyone’s smashed! The frothy pints of lager are sourced from the owner’s favorite small town breweries, and the fridge kept stocked courtesy of his own cross-border forays. (E4) Tower 22A, Most Poniatowskiego, czeskabaszta.pl

(D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 11, welesbar.pl

craft beer T Podwale Bar & Books R C P T itMdoesn’t have to be winter to Though C Podwale W enjoy Bar & Books, it definitely ≈ W C helps.

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ul. Wąski Dunaj 20, barandbooks.pl

The Roots Having recruited some of the top bartenders in Poland, The Roots have a serious artillery on which to rely. So committed is V O L a P i n Y this haunt, its walls are graced by a vast www.barandbooks.pl collection of cocktail memorabilia: antique jiggers, shakers, coolers, not to mention an original signed copy of the world’s first cocktail handbook (published: 1862!). (C2) isit

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Warmut Set in the Commie era No Man’s Land between Zbawiciela and Konstytucji, it’s become one of the hottest nights in town. This vermouth-inspired cocktail bar features classic and house creations, and a spectacular design involving street art, greenery and mirrored walls. But the piece de resistance? Those are the scale

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Wąski Dunaj 20, 00-256 Warsaw

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Craft Beer Muranów Though still an area thick with beretwearing, dachshund-walking oldies, Muranów is fast catching up with the rest of Warsaw. Taking care of the craft beer angle is this newbie, a bi-level bar with warm tones and 16 taps of beery goodness. ul. Andersa 23, fb.com/craftbeerCuda Na Kiju Where it all began. Summer catches Warsaw’s original tap bar at its best, with the courtyard of the former Communist Party HQ now home to an entirely different kind of party: on occasions find food trucks and film screenings, and all other times just a massive crowd getting sloshed on 15 types of tap beer. But even outside the sweaty months Cuda is worth the visit: drink inside a modern, glass cube that’s refreshingly contemporary. (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, cudanakiju.pl

Cześć It started as a café, but now Cześć is better known as being at the forefront of the new generation of ‘quali-tap’ bars – small little places with six or so beers on tap. The two owners, Piotrek and Kuba, take their beer seriously, so do expect plenty of new finds as well as traditional favorites from stalwarts like Artezan and Pinta. The laidback, neighborhood atmosphere is making it increasingly popular with a tight-knit circle of ex-pat drinkers. (C3) ul. Grzybowska 2 (through the

10% warsawinsider.pl

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DRINK! Listings Drugie Dno The natural start (or finish) point of any Nowogrodzka pub crawl, head to The Double D for a space that conjures to mind a disused power station: sporting rugged brickwork and a scuffed style, the neo-industrial look is ramped up with the liberal use of steel girders, vintage voltage meters and toilets disguised as elevator shafts. Sixteen taps to drink through, many of them offering extreme drinking solutions from Europe’s most radical breweries. Looks great, tastes great, a factor that ensure a male-to-female ratio that feels roughly equal. (D5) ul.

Nowogrodzka 4

Drugie Dno Ochota Choice is thinner than the original (just eight taps), but there’s something here that really seems to work. Set over two floors, there’s a warmth and atmosphere that radiates throughout. An interesting design inspired by the original is matched with decent pizzas and a location down a

leafy side street that’s gradually getting noticed for its neighborhood scene. (A6) ul. Tarczyńska 5/9

Jabeerwocky Steeped in multinational drunken babble, the super sociable Jabbers is famed for its innovative beer selection and convivial atmosphere. Mark it down as an absolute must-visit, especially if you’re a fan of stout and cider. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 12

Kufle i Kapsle Found somewhere round the top of Warsaw’s hierarchy of craft beer bars, Kufle welcomes all, from entry level novices taking their first steps in the beery world to note-taking nerds conducting research for their blogs. Interiors are respectful of the building’s pre-war heritage and are thick with noise, clamor and the reassuring smell of spillage. The edgy beer selection becomes is even more radical when you look down in the fridge.

(D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 25

Mikkeller Bar Warsaw Light and bright the sparsity of the interior is a surprise: a classic case of less is more, here the punchline is given to the beer. That means twenty taps firing out a revolving roster of kickass beers that, thus far, have included lambic-style ‘SpontanPear’ and yuzu flavored Berliner weisse. It’s an utter geek-gasm for beer nerds. Prices for the Danish stuff start in the early 20s and soar upwards to reach eye-watering levels – in return, you’re getting brilliant beer that breaks brewing boundaries. For cheapskates, Polish options kick-off at approx. 13 PLN. (D4) ul.

Chmielna 7/9,

Same Krafty Squashed into two narrow, rugged rooms decorated with benches and rough plaster walls, Same Krafty have rescued Old Town from big beer brands peddling piss.

Offering artisan alternatives, this intimate bar lures daring tourists looking to explore the more subversive side of Polish

A F R E N C H R E V E L AT I O N REDOLENT OF A PARISIEN COURTYARD BAKERY, YOU’LL SMELL THE AROMA OF OUR FRESHLY BAKED BREAD FROM DAWN. OPEN THROUGH THE DAY, WE’RE DELIGHTED TO SERVE OUR FAMOUS BREAKFASTS, TRADITIONAL PASTRIES NOT TO MENTION A SELECTION OF WINES FOR YOUR DINNER. WE LOOK FORWARD TO WELCOMING YOU.

Być Może

ul. Bagatela 14

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DRINK! Listings brewing. Sustenance comes by way of big wheels of pizza that are surprisingly good. (D1) ul. Nowomiejska 10 Same Krafty Vis-à-vis When it comes to pubs, Same Krafty tops any Old Town hit list, but try getting served at peak drinking time. No problem, head five meters opposite to Bar No. 2. Pass under a dragon’s head before stepping into a supremely friendly room with ten taps, a strong bottle lineup and an atmospheric side chamber.

You will find tourists, but locals are often the majority, a telling indicator that says much for their approval rating. (D1) ul.

Nowomiejska 11/13

for gentlemen Playhouse Housed in a former subterranean bomb shelter, the talk now is of bombshells:

namely the 57 stunners they’ve got listed on their books. Inspired by high class joints in London and Vegas, it’s a refined choice with a no-pressure atmosphere and door staff that don’t look like they’re going to kick your head in. (B3) Al. Solidarności 82A, playhouse.pl

live music

Hydrozagadka Set out in the wildlands of Praga, consider Hydrozagadka as the heart of unforced cool. Known for its alternative music scene, the low-ceiling and tight, crowded nature of it generate an electrifying atmosphere where the audience and band become one. Walking a fine line between industrial and straight out decrepit, the atmosphere is second to none: drinks flow, strangers meet and music smashes out: you can feel something special happening here. ul. 11

Listopada 22, hydrozagadka.waw.pl

Klub Pogłos Arguably Warsaw’s No. 1 venue for alternative music, Pogłos checks all the requisite boxes: a divey, gritty look, a liberal atmosphere and an army of fans willing and eager to embrace the seamier side of night. The packed program of events runs from spoken word performances and vegan BBQs, to sweaty tribute concerts celebrating The Smiths. At other times, you’ll be listening to touring Berlin-based bands, hardcore DJs or psychedelic soul from the likes of King Khan And The Shrines. If it’s weird, it’s on. ul. Burakowska 12, fb.com/klubpoglos

vodka Dom Wódki Those expecting Dom Wódki to be a standard mucky shot bar are in for a surprise.

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DRINK! Listings Sparkling with over 250 artisanal vodkas, find them incorporated into inspirational drinks mixed by Tomasz Małek, a world champion flair bartender. More than just show, the tastes are incredible. (C2) ul.

Wierzbowa 9/11,bdomwodki.pl

Meta Chains of old bog paper, album covers and other Communist keepsakes litter this shot bar. But for a real blast to the past, visit their Parkingowa venue for a full-on, Polski-style retro disco. It’s hilarious. ul.

Mazowiecka 11 / Foksal 21 / Parkingowa 5

Pijalnia Havoc reigns in Pijalnia, and watching all the tears and tiffs on a Friday night is something of a spectator sport. Pickles and vodka are the essential order, while reading matter is supplied via commieera sports reports that are plastered to the wall. Many locations WuWu Open round-the-clock, this 24-hour bar is the place in which to enjoy a prodigious choice of vodka inside a chic, dimly-lit environment that resounds to the singalong hits of communist Poland.

Serving classic drinking bites (sour cream and herring, beef tartar, etc.) and an array of expertly fixed cocktails, it’s a spot that promises to become the place to be for a higher class of night owl. If this is gentrification, we’re all for it. (G1) Pl. Konesera 1

wine bars

Ale Wino!

Without doubt, peak time is the summer when drinkers congregate on a courtyard deck shielded by a sail. But winter ain’t so bad either with this covert wine bar unraveling to reveal a series of little chambers. The wine choice is comprehensive and it’s ably supported by some of the best cooking in the city: chef Sebastian Wełpa is one of Warsaw’s great, golden talents.

(E5) ul. Mokotowska 48, alewino.pl

Bubbles Such is the style of Bubbles it feels like Valentine’s all year round: high on intimacy, it’s a charming ensemble of

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rickety crates and deep, dark colors.

But the clincher, that’s the prodigious selection of champagne. Now while you’d usually expect a champagne bar to be filled with footballers wives and berks with fake tans, Bubbles feels inclusive, convivial and anything but vain. (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, bubbles.com.pl

Dekant Wine Bar Set inside an attractive open space, the opening of Dekant is a further indication of Powiśle’s shift from hipster epicenter to upscale playground (Robert Lewandowski has been spotted here!). The list comprises over 400 wines from the most prestigious producers in the world, right the way down to tiny, little vineyards you’ve probably never heard of. If the sun is out, aim for a place on their back terrace. (E3) ul. Zajęcza 15, dekant.com.pl Dyletanci Filled with immaculate, modern citizens that drive beamers and jeeps, everyone here looks pretty pleased with themselves – and after a drink, so will you.

Aside from the sensational cooking of Rafał Hreczaniuk, join the good lookers for an exceptional wine list that includes a hefty offer from Poland. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44, dyletanci.pl

Kieliszki Na Hożej Pointing attention towards small and medium-sized European producers (Italian, in particular), sommelier Paweł Demianiuk has composed a wine list that’s interesting, smart but also comprehensible. Named in a nod to the 1,116 glasses that hang above the bar (we didn’t count, so don’t shoot the messenger), all wines are available by the glass. ul. Hoża 41, kieliszkinahozej.pl

from across the street – restored pre-war tiling, glinting surfaces, a world map rendered from corks and an engaging reddish glow all do their bit to lend Nowina the kind of atmosphere that’s missing in most local wine bars. Add to that an exciting international menu and a selection of over 400 wines and you have an absolute winner. ul. Nowogrodzka 4, nowina.waw.pl

Rusiko Wine Bar Designed to act as a casual extension of the neighboring Rusiko restaurant, this wine bar showcases Warsaw’s biggest selection of Georgian wine inside an interior that feels intimate, jazzy and highly atmospheric. Elaborate rugs, deep rouge in color, hang from tall sapphire walls, while impossibly high ceilings do much to generate a swirl of soft, muffled sound. A place of good mood and organic hospitality, it’s no surprise to learn that the bitey menu is an ample reflection of Rusiko’s award-winning reputation. (E5) Al. Ujazdowskie 22, fb.com/winebarrusiko

WinKolekcja The selection of New World wines is exceptional, though classicists are also catered for via an extensive choice of Spanish, French and Italian wines. Their highly recommended restaurant provides further reason to linger inside a design that has the routine look of a club class lounge. (E10) ul. Olkuska 7, winkolekcja.pl Winosfera Once a pre-war cinema, now a stunning wine bar / store with one of the most impressive collections in Poland: an expense account comes in handy. Equally notable is the ambitious fine dining menu of Jakub Adamczyk. (B3) ul. Chłodna 31, winosfera.pl

Mielżyński Wine Bar Founded in 2004, this ivy-clad warehouse-style enterprise lit the touch paper for Poland’s wine revolution. Emanating casual city cool, it’s still the yardstick against which all others are measured.

It’s a default choice for first dates, and if things go well then walk amid the shelves and pick something for later.

(A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7 (also on Czerska 12), mielzynski.pl

Nowina The striking interior that catches the eye

Winsky One of the strongest openings in recent months (on second thoughts, make that the strongest opening in recent months) presents a menu of itsty, teeny plates, a maverick selection of tap wines, top notch whisky, and an interior that’s all restrained velvety opulence. And then there’s the backdrop – nestled on the ground floor of The Tides development, windows face out onto the inky black waters of the river and the sparkling stadium just beyond. (F4) ul. Wioślarska 10

LUXURY APARTMENTS Are you looking for sophisticated luxury? Would you like to live in the heart of Cracow next to Wawel Castle but enjoy peace and quiet? Would you like to taste traditional Polish cuisine in an elegant, modern rendition?

Well, Kanonicza 22 is the ideal place for you!

Let us spoil you and make your visit in Cracow truly unforgettable.

Ranked third on „World’s most romantic hotel” list.

Among our guests were: Jim Carrey, James Caviezel, Benedict Cumberbatch, Roman Polanski, Andrzej Wajda, Hans Zimmer... and many more.

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Attractive rates for direct reservation guests!

DO!

IN FOCUS: FORT INSTITUTE OF PHOTOGRAPHY

Out in deepest Mokotów, a former fortress has been developed into one of Warsaw’s primary cultural attractions…

BY STUART DOWELL

warsawinsider.pl

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A

wide-angle look over Warsaw’s landscape of photo galleries offers rather slim pickings for a city of its size and importance.

However, zoom in on Mokotów’s post-Tsarist fort on the corner of Wołoska and Racławicka streets and a photographic treasure comes into sharp focus.

If the Fort Institute of Photography, which opened two years ago, were a camera it would be no simple point-and-shoot, but rather a fully-fledged, full-frame camera system with lots of interchangeable lenses. Spread over two separate

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buildings in the Fort Mokotów creative hub, it features one of Poland’s largest dedicated photographic gallery spaces in one of the nineteenth-century fort buildings, and the largest private collection of photobooks and albums in the country, which is housed in an elongated post-war add-on.

Holding the fort is gallery director Karolina Miszczak, who explained to the Warsaw Insider: “The institute was set up to promote photography and offer support to photographers both in Poland and abroad. It organises photography

exhibitions and organises art and photography education for children and adults.”

The books in the well-stocked reading room cover a huge range of photographic styles and periods, and there are many unique volumes that are often loaned out to other institutions. “The reading room,” encourages Karolina, “is probably the largest private collection of photobooks and albums in Poland. It is also free to use, so anyone can come here and look through our collections.

The collection is so extensive and

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF IFF

Do! Review

Instytut Fotografii Fort ul. Racławicka 99, instytutfotografiifort.org.pl

impressive that it prompts the obvious question of who is behind the enterprise. The founder wishes to remain anonymous, but suffice to say it is a person with a huge interest in art and photography.”

A closer look at the board, mind you, reveals the institute has some serious names from the photography community behind it, including the prolific and creative Jacek Poremba and National Geographic legend Tomasz Tomaszewski. A few gravel-crunching steps across the former fort marching ground is a low red-brick barrack that now houses the institute’s gallery. One of Poland’s largest gallery spaces dedicated exclusively to photography, it is currently hosting the fascinating Iconication exhibition

by German portraitist Anatol Kotte.

Featuring four decades of the photographer’s work, it examines the original meaning of ‘icon’ in the Eastern orthodox church and how that contrasts with today’s sense of the word. For less arty types, though, it is a great opportunity to see portraits of Star Wars favourites Mark Hamill and Ewan McGregor, and Jurassic Park fans will enjoy the black and white portrait of Jeff Goldblum.

The gallery has in its short existence become an important venue in Poland for photography exhibitions. Earlier this year, it hosted Michał Iwanowski’s meditation on the concept of home prompted by seeing ‘Go Home, Polish’ graffitied on a wall in Wales. Another highlight was the Hidden Photo exhibition that featured photos rejected or forgotten by their authors but saved and brought back to life.

One of the institute’s goals is to provide education for budding and current artists. One series of workshops showed kids the basics of analogue photography and optics, what film, lightsensitive material and the camera obscure are, and they made their own pinhole cameras out of match boxes.

Early in 2019, the institute will be running the School of Seeing

series of weekend workshops that will examine how ‘seeing’ can be a tool to interpret the world around us. Seeing what the institute has to offer is worth the trip to Fort Mokotów by itself, but there are other attractions too.

After enjoying the photo gallery, fill up at Żywa Kuchnia, which offers gluten-free, non-dairy dishes that are all cooked below a maximum temperature of 85oC, thereby preserving as much of the goodness as possible. Meanwhile, honey fans can get their hands on urban honey as well as all the kit for home hives at Pszczelarium.

One of Poland’s largest gallery spaces dedicated exclusively to photography, it is currently hosting the fascinating Iconication exhibition by German portraitist Anatol Kotte warsawinsider.pl

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DO! Events idea has since spread to several cities across the world. To join (or watch…) all you have to do is head to Metro Wilanowska – then, on the stroke of 4, remove your trousers and board the metro…

CHARITY WOŚP

EDITOR’S PICK Body Worlds Ongoing through January @ PKiN, Pl. Defilad 1

A unique, and often bizarre, anatomical exhibition devoted to the human structure, Body Worlds reveals the inner secrets as to what lies beneath the human skin…

For details, see: bodyworlds.pl

TOURS Łazienki With Adrenaline

4 Jan @ Łazienki Park Join this Polish language evening tour to learn where vampires once gathered and the meaning of Łazienki’s Egyptian temple. These and other secrets of the park will be laid bare in this tour with a twist.

For info, see: lazienkizadrenalina8. evenea.pl

COMEDY Bill Burr

10 Jan @ ul. Tobruku 40 Cited by Rolling Stone as being “the undisputed heavyweight champ of rage-fueled humor,” this stand-up legend has come a long way since his days of operating forklifts in Boston warehouses. A regular on Breaking Bad, the co-founder of the All Things Comedy network has, in the past, been called “one of the funniest, most distinc-

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tive voices in the country for years,” by The New York Times. Performing in English, expect this event to sell-out fast.

Tickets from zł. 105 @ fource.pl

MARKET Grand Bazar

12 Jan @ Elektrownia Powiśle, ul. Elektryczna 2 A real gift for browsers, the wide-reaching offer will run from books and art to clothing and design pieces. Find 120 leading Polish brands presenting their wares at rock bottom prices.

EVENT No Pants Subway Ride

13 Jan @ Metro Wilanowska Going strong for the last few years, the No Pants Subway Ride aims to “bring a smile” to the public on a joyless January. Originating in New York in 2002, and organized

by Improv Everywhere, the

Warsaw Insider | JANUARY 2019

13 Jan @ Various Locations Poland’s biggest annual fundraiser celebrates its 27th year with the usual round of street collections and one-off events, culminating in a concert at the foot of the Palace of Culture and a giant laser display.

For info, see: wosp.org.pl

MARKET Och! Bazar

13 Jan @ 5/7 Młocińska Street Promoting upcoming Polish designers, this market will see umpteen brands and labels presenting the full gamut of lifestyle / design essentials at post-Christmas bargain prices.

For info, see: ochbazar.pl

ARTS Press Photo Expo

14 Jan @ ul. Nowy Świat 1/11 Promoted as ‘a day of photography for photographers’, the sixth edition of the Press Photo Expo will include an appearance

by Czarek Sokolowski – the only Pole to win a photographic Pulitzer – and numerous lectures led by leading photographers.

Brands to be present include Canon, Nikon, Sony, Focus Nordic, Sony, Think Tank Photo, Olympus and many more besides.

For info, see: pressphotoexpo. com

CONCERT Kortez

25 Jan @ Palladium, ul. Złota 9 Dubbed “a retrospective version of the sold out HEY WY Tour,” this concert will feature material from this performer’s previous releases as well as two new songs: Hey You and Old Trees. Accompanying Kortez on stage will be Krzysztof Domański, Lesław Matecki, Robert Kretzschmar and Jacek Lachowicz.

Tickets from zł. 90 @ goout.net

CONCERT Tom Odell

26 Jan @ COS Torwar, ul. Łazienkowska 6A Of his early performances Odell recalls they were “full of humiliation: dragging a keyboard round, turning up to find out I’d been taken off the bill, gangs of lads grabbing the mic off me and laughing.” Guess who has had the last laugh? The winner of the 2013 Brits Critics’ Choice, Odell’s mix of indie pop brought him to the attention of the Rolling Stones who booked the artist to support them.

Tickets from zł. 135, available at: ticketmaster.pl

CONCERT Flogging Molly

31 Jan @ Stodoła, ul. Batorego 10 Often compared to The Pogues and Dropkick Murphys, ‘the masters of Celtic punk’ return to Warsaw to play hits from their seven albums to date.

Founded in Los Angeles, this Irish-American seven-piece band have seen much of their work acclaimed by the music press, with Alternative Press citing their 2008 album, Float, as “one of the most important CDs of the year, if not the decade.”

Tickets from zł. 105 @ ticketmaster.pl

DO! Museum Listings

POSTER MUSEUM

Copernicus Science Centre Featuring hundreds of interactive exhibitions, it’s a place that allows young and old alike to blast objects into space, experience an earthquake or steer exploratory robots. ul.

Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, kopernik.org.pl

CSW Situated in a baroque-style castle the center hosts artists from all over the world.

The on-site bookshop is of particular interest for artists and intellectuals. ul. Jazdów 2, csw.art.pl

Dom Spotkań z Historią The History Meeting House wins points for small but frequently excellent exhibitions that cover topics such as ‘rebuilding Warsaw’ and ‘Socialist Realist architecture.’

ethnomuseum.pl

Fotoplastikon Thought to date from 1905, Warsaw’s Fotoplastikon generates 3D perspectives from a set of 2D images: visitors peer through an eyepiece and are taken on a trip around the world while music from days yore parps away in the background. Al. Jerozolimskie 51, fotoplastikonwarszawski.pl

Fryderyk Chopin Museum The 18th century Ostrogski Palace is the perfect foil for the ultra-modern content of this multi-sensory space. The personal items are enchanting, but the big victory here is the museum’s ability to suck visitors right back into the times of Chopin through the use of interactive sights and sounds. ul. Okólnik 1, chopin.museum

ul. Karowa 20, dsh.waw.pl

Ethnographic Museum Considerably revamped to meet the demands and attention-spans of the 21st century sightseer, the Ethnographic Museum is a visual pleasure that showcases colorful costumes, fabrics and ceramics from Poland and beyond. ul. Kredytowa 1,

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The Heritage Interpretation Center This small venue tells the complex story of Old Town’s reconstruction: if the first section about Warsaw’s physical elimination is poignant, then the others do a fabulous job of sharing the optimism and alacrity that followed. ul.

Brzozowa 11-13, mhw.pl

Warsaw Insider | JANUARY 2019

Z AC H Ę TA

Jewish Historical Institute Officially opened in 1947 the Jewish Historical Institute was created to serve as an archive of Jewish culture in Warsaw. It contains artwork, historical artifacts and important documents from the city’s rich Jewish past. ul.

Tłomackie 3/5, jhi.pl

Katyń Museum This museum commemorates the murder of 21,000 Polish officers by the Soviets in the spring of 1940. Beyond its quite staggering architectural merit, the museum has done a stunning job of collecting and presenting artifacts relating to the slaughter. ul. Jeziorańskiego 4, muzeumkatynskie.pl

Marie Skłodowska-Curie Musuem Reopened after a significant re-haul, this museum celebrates the groundbreaking scientist that discovered polonium. The Curie-osities include lab equipment, her trademark black dress and even her nail file. ul. Freta 16, en.muzeum-msc.pl

Museum of Communist Life Lovingly assembled by its young owner, the museum is

split into a few different sections: one devoted to state and subversive literature, and another that recreates an empty store typical of the times. Our highlight, though, is the recreation of a commie-era apartment.

NEWSFLASH: Relocating in Jan, see website for details), adventurewarsaw.com

Museum of Praga The Praga Museum tells the story of the area with such charm and simplicity that it manages to leave an unlikely impression that’s as punchy as that of the big institutions. Star billing goes to a restored Jewish prayer room and the Flying Carpet: an exhibit festooned with various trinkets and treasures once available for purchase from local pavement traders. ul. Targowa 50/52, muzeumwarszawy.pl

Museum of Warsaw Over 8,000 objects detail the story of Warsaw, and these include peculiar souvenirs, scale models, old postcards and recovered works of art.

Cohesive and comprehensive yet never too overwhelming, the trail climaxes with

DO! Museum Listings

POLIN

vertiginous views of the Rynek below. Unmissable.

Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42, muzeumwarszawy.pl

National Museum Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars. Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.

Pawiak What was once a Tsarist prison assumed a doubly sinister function under the Nazis. Some 100,000 Polish political prisoners were held here, 37,000 of which were executed on-site. Split in two sections, cells are found on one side, while on the other the full story of the invasion and occupation. ul. Dzielna

Factory), neonmuzeum.org

Palmiry National Memorial Museum An excellent multimedia exhibition set next to a cemetery holding the graves of 1,700 Poles executed in the first years of Nazi occupation.

The museum tells their forgotten story as well as that of the siege and subsequent occupation of Warsaw.

Palmiry, palmiry.mhw.pl

supplement, and its gradual acceptance into mainstream society. Highlights include a motherlode of vintage bottles and an interactive chamber in which visitors can test their alcohol knowledge, learn about salutation customs and strap-on goggles to see the disorienting effects of overconsumption. Pl. Konesera 1,

Polin Composed of eight galleries, each covers a different stage of local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day. Highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec synagogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical inter-war Jewish Warsaw street. Named the European Museum of the Year in 2016. ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl

Polish Vodka Museum Documenting the nation’s 600-year-old love affair with the tipple, visits kick-off in earnest with displays that trace the origins of the drink, its early beginnings as a medicinal

Exhibits range from a full-size replica of a Liberator plane, to a sewer beneath the cinema screen and a slice of bread preserved from 1944.

And don’t miss the ‘City of Ruins’, a five minute 3D film which takes you on an aerial journey over devastated Warsaw. ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl

muzeumpolskiejwodki.pl

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art.pl

The Neon Museum Filled with salvaged signage, this museum houses several dozen neons that once lit up the capital. The emphasis is firmly on the PRL era, a time when the nation’s best graphic designers were nutty for neon. ul. Mińska 25 (Soho

NEON MUSEUM

The Royal Castle in Warsaw Highlights include the lavishly restored 18th century royal apartments with 22 paintings

by Canaletto, the Senators’ Chamber in which the Constitution of the Third of May was signed, the biggest collection of oriental rugs in Europe and two remarkable Rembrandt paintings. Pl. Zamkowy 4, zamek-krolewski.pl

Wola Museum What was once a dreary old place has been rebooted as a smart communityminded museum and one of the most forward-thinking institutions in the capital.

Bringing the wider area of Wola alive, find engaging content that’s creatively presented: posters, family memorabilia and various media relating to the area. ul.

Srebrna 12, mhw.pl

The Warsaw Amber Museum Part of Bursztynek, a dedicated amber shop, has been turned into a curious museum detailing the history of amber. Rynek Starego Miasta 4/6, bursztynek.co

Warsaw Rising Museum Cope with the crowds to discover the definitive story of the 1944 Uprising in town.

Zachęta National Art Gallery Regarded as one of Poland’s most prestigious galleries, the Zachęta has a busy program of temporary exhibitions that frequently showcase some of the biggest names in domestic and international contemporary art. Pl. Małachowskiego 3, zacheta.art.pl warsawinsider.pl

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For those unfamiliar with the school, how would you introduce it to the outsider. What’s its back story, and what makes it special?

Our School Founder, Mrs. Iwona Thomas MBE, established The British School in 1992. Over 25 years we have grown from 38 students to 1,200. We offer an international education with a British ethos catering to English-speaking families who value the high academic standards and a truly international learning experience. We are non-selective, with over 70 nationalities most with English as a second language, yet we manage to achieve GCSE and IB results far above UK and international standards.

A British way of LEARNING

Principal Alun Yorath talks to the Insider about the underlying philosophies of The British School Warsaw

You mention the British standard – what do you mean by this and how can you replicate it here in Warsaw?

British education overseas is a huge growth market with demand amongst expat and local communities. However, research has shown that the demand is not simply for a British curriculum or exam but for something less tangible.

When parents are seeking a British Education they want a school which places value on the extra-curricular offer; where uniform, behaviour and timekeeping are pillars of a well-functioning community; and where high expectations are evident in all that the school does.

There is no shortage of international schools in Warsaw – in your view, what unique aspects elevate The

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B R O U G H T T O Y O U BY

“

ur students make our school: They are diverse, O internationally-minded, hardworking, diligent, courageous, kind and a delight to teach

British School Warsaw above others.

We are unique in Warsaw in that we are part of a family of 56 schools with Nord Anglia Education (NAE) which allows us to leverage international collaborations. Our students have the opportunity to travel to our expedition-based snow-sports centre in Switzerland; renovate schools & build goat sheds in Tanzania; perform at a European music camp with Juilliard School alumni and tutors present.; attend Space Camp and the STEAM festival at MIT and take over UNICEF Headquarters in NY. Also, recruiting outstanding internationally experienced teachers is at the heart of any successful international school, and our global presence allows us to attract the very best.

You have briefly mentioned your exam results and the quality of your teachers. Tell us more about your teachers, your results and, just as importantly, about your students?

Yes, our teachers are a diverse bunch!

The vast majority are UK trained with many having spent time overseas and we have Polish and other native language teachers. Our teachers are attracted by the professional opportunities afforded by being part of our very own Nord Anglia University.

Last summer our students excelled with 52% of all our GCSE exams graded at A*-A, compared with an average of 20% in the UK. Our IB results scored an average of 35 points against a world average of 29.8. One of our students scored 45/45 which is truly remarkable

with only 240 students worldwide scoring this mark. Additionally, almost 25% of our students achieved a score of 40+.

Our students make our school: they are diverse, internationally-minded, hardworking, diligent, courageous, kind and a delight to teach.

What are the benefits of sending your child to The British School here in Warsaw than, say, a British school in… Britain! Does being in Warsaw not hamper a student's chance of entering a British university once they finish their studies here?

As an international school we can choose to select the very best components of any curriculum. In the Primary school, we use the academic rigour and framework of the English National Curriculum as our foundation and extend this through the International Primary Curriculum. For our older students we offer the International GCSE programme which is benchmarked against UK and international students, so important for University applications but also in preparation for their ‘post-16’ studies.

Our ‘Post-16’ curriculum is based on the world leading International Baccalaureate Diploma Programme and we have offered this for 15 years with huge success.

Most students in the UK will sit A Level examinations at ‘Post-16’. It is widely acknowledged that whilst A Levels are the de-facto UK exam system, they significantly disadvantage applications even to UK Universities! Recent research by HESA (Higher Education

Statistics Agency), showed that 24% of A Level students secured places at a Top 20 UK university compared with 40% of IB students. Also an IB student is 20% more likely to secure a 1st class honours degree in the UK than an A Level student.

Further HESA research shows a gap between IB and A Level students on their readiness to study at university. This study found that IB students were better prepared to study independently than A Level students (94% compared with 49%) and their time and self-management skills were significantly more developed (91% compared with 47%). IB students are 25% more likely to achieve a Master’s or PhD degree than an A Level student due to their preparedness to succeed at University.

Your school has children aged 2½ to 18. What are the advantages of being able to cover the whole age range?

For children: student role models, opportunities for student leadership and a sense of community. For Parents: convenience, security and a sense of community. For teachers: collaborations, resources and a sense of community!

The British School Warsaw will hold an Open Day, Thursday 14th February open to parents and children age 6-18.

To register email openday@thebritishchool.pl or call our admissions team at + 48 22 842 32 91 ext.125. warsawinsider.pl

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DO! Education Listings adult learning Cup of Polish Personalized Polish classes adapted to meet your needs. Also home/company visits and online courses. For a free 60-minute trial email: kontakt@cupofpolish.com. cupofpolish.com

warsaw montessori family

Warsaw Montessori Schools

Accepting applications for our programs and locations: Infant & Toddler Tatrzańska 5a Badowska 19

Casa dei Bambini Badowska 19 Szkolna 16, Hornówek

Elementary Szwoleżerów 4

„Erdkinder” Middle School Tatrzańska 5a

Montessori High School

Pytlasińskiego 13a Contact Office: 692 099 134 office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl

www.wmf.edu.pl

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Edu & More Polish Language School incorporating modern teaching methods and reasonable prices. Intensive & regular Polish courses for beginners. Business & everyday Polish. ul. Nowogrodzka 44 / 7, polishonlinenow.com

Together School With locations in both Kraków and Warsaw, Together have seven years of experience teaching Polish and English for everyday life, business and general communication. Mariensztat 8

from Pre-nursery (age 30 months) to Reception (5 years old). Children develop quickly and their Early Years practitioners aim to do all they can to help your child have the best possible start in life and become a lifelong learner. ul. Dąbrowskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646 7777 , thebritishschool.pl

The Canadian School of Warsaw Preschool Welcoming students from the ages of 2.5 to 6 years old, currently 45% of their admissions are international students.

The dedicated, IB-trained teachers deliver an innovative program (PYP) in English designed for modern world needs. The program offers a combination of Literacy, Maths, Social Studies, Science, Physical Education, Art, Music & Rhythmics, French and Polish classes. ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, canadian-school.pl

preschools American School of Warsaw American School of Warsaw provides a rich, meaningful and balanced educational experience through age-appropriate activities to students aged 3 to 5. For further information and/or to visit our school, contact:admissions@aswarsaw.org or 22 ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel.

22 702 85 00, aswarsaw.org 702 85 00.

The British Primary School of Wilanów Following the National Curriculum of England and Wales, this is the first School in Poland subject to the inspection of the UK Independent School Inspectorate. Pupils receive British and, upon request, Polish reports/diplomas. The school follows a closed admissions policy and limits enrollment of one nationality to below 50% of each class starting from Year 1. ul. Hlonda 12, bsww.pl

The British School Early Years Centre The British School provides EYFS classes

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations) Warsaw Montessori School Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have three green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin.

The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in earlychildhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob.

692 099 134, warsawmontessori.edu.pl

International Trilingual School of Warsaw Established in 1994, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fill-immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers

OPEN DAY INVITATION Sunday 20th january 2019, 12pm - 2pm, ul. Hlonda 12, Wilanów, Warsaw, www.bsw.com.pl

T

hese are exciting times in Wilanów at BSW. The school has now reached almost 200 pupils and extends from Nursery to Year 7, with Year 8 opening in September 2019.

In May 2018 the school obtained Compliance Status from The Council of British International Schools following a detailed accreditation visit; BSW is the first international school in Poland to achieve this status. Another feather in its cap is the very successful Forest School programme.

Developed on a model in use in Norway, all pupils from Nursery upwards experience the wonder of the forest and develop skills and teamwork that translates very successfully to the classroom and real life situations.

The school facilities continue to grow and develop. The new extension is in its final stage of completion and set to open in early 2019. This will provide 6 additional class-

rooms, an ICT suite, new locker areas and will ensure that the school has the resources for the expected growth. A new playground will be finalised in December 2018 and the school has exciting plans for sports facilities, both indoor and outdoor, on additional lands adjacent to the school.

What makes BSW so special is the values system that has developed around the school’s symbol, The Lion.

The Walk of the Lion permeates all activities; pupils show courtesy, respect, cooperation and courage in their interactions and in their approach to learning. Our dedicated team of highly qualified teachers put this into action in the classroom.

BSW invites you to join its Walk of the Lion .

- Tom McGrath, Principal

DO! Education Listings are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/saint-exupery.pl

The English Playhouse The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-yearsold. For more info or to arrange a tour call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email: jnowak@theenglishplayhouse.com ul. Pływiańska 14a, tel. 22 843 9370, tep.edu.pl

Maple Tree Montessori Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international pre-

school that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, mapletreemontessori.pl

Montessori Academy for International Children An English-speaking pre-school (16 months to 6 years of age) with two locations. The school’s policy is to comply with Montessori standards, using the Montessori Method in English. The school’s philosophy is based on the joy of learning, which comes from discovering and furthering the individual development of each child. ul. Królewicza Jakuba 36 (Wilanów), ul. Sadowa 4 (Konstancin), Open 8:00-16:45, tel. 502 315 022, montessoriacademy.eu

Montessori Stepping Stones An intimate, international, English-speaking preschool located in Powsin that follows the Montessori philosophy which emphasizes the individuality of each child.

Children from the ages of 1.5-years-old to 6-years-old are welcome, with the school’s goals aimed at facilitating the individual development of the child, both physical and mental, through a system that is focused on the spontaneous use of the human intellect. ul. Przyczółkowa 140, tel. 728 939 582, montessoristeppingstones.pl

Trilingual Pre-school and Nursery “Three Languages” Center The only trilingual pre-school and nursery teaching English, Spanish and Polish through total language immersion. All educators are native speaker pre-school

Primary, Secondary & IB

Open Day

Thursday 14 February 2019 th

9:00-11:00am | 1:00-3:00pm

To register visit our website or email: openday@thebritishschool.pl

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www.thebritishschool.pl

DO! Listings

S U N DAY 2 0 th JA N UA RY AT 2:00 P M

Open Day

at Akademeia High School Akademeia High School is a new international high school in Warsaw, offering A Levels and iGCSEs. Our school focuses on developing both students’ academic abilities and their artistic, athletic and leadership potential.

Join us for the unique opportunity to meet the school management and representatives of all departments on Sunday 20th January at 2:00pm.

The Open Day at Akademeia High School is an excellent opportunity to become acquainted with the philosophy of education at our high school; get to know the curriculum for 2019/2020 school year with the opportunity to talk to the teachers and the admissions team, and explore the new building.

We’ll explain:

Why choose A levels Why diagnosing student potential is so important for us and what it consists of Why we promote the personal development of each student Why so-called “21st century skills” are crucial for a young person’s intellectual development Why school is not only about classes How the new school building reflects our philosophy of education

Prior registration applies.

Learn more: www.akademeia.edu.pl / office@akademeia.edu.pl

Akademeia High School Ledóchowskiej 2 02-972 Warsaw

DO! Education Listings teachers. The comprehensive curriculum follows American, Spanish and Polish curriculum standards. The pre-school was awarded European Language Label in 2012. ul. Karowa 14/16 lok 6 (3-6 year olds); ul. Cicha 5 lok 1 (1-2 year olds), tel. 517 872 682, 3languages.pl

schools

American School of Warsaw ASW is a premier college-preparatory international school that offers a PK-12 curriculum, including the IB Diploma Program in Grades 11 and 12. Students are inspired and challenged every day by experienced and dedicated teachers, who provide enriching learning opportunities in a world class facility. For further information contact: admissions@ aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00. ul.

Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, aswarsaw.org

Akademeia High School Akademeia High School is an international high school in Warsaw, offering the chance to study for A Levels and iGCSEs. The school focuses on developing both students’ academic abilities and their artistic, athletic and leadership potential. ul. Ledóchowskiej 2, akademeia.edu.pl

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The British Primary School of Wilanów Following the National Curriculum of England and Wales, this is the first School in Poland subject to the inspection of the UK Independent School Inspector-

ate. Pupils receive British and, upon request, Polish reports/diplomas. The school follows a closed admissions policy and limits enrollment of one nationality to below 50% of each class starting from Year 1. ul. Hlonda 12, bsww.pl

The British School Premium international school established in 1992 by Nord Anglia Education. The curriculum is designed to provide the highest academic quality of education. They follow the English National Curriculum, adapted to the needs of their international student community: from Primary through to the Secondary Key Stages to the IGCSE examinations and a well-established International Baccalaureate (IB) Diploma Program. ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, thebritishschool.pl

DO! Education Listings Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations) Warsaw Montessori School Guided by trained specialists, students will be responsible for managing their household, operating small businesses, caring for local flora and fauna as well as domesticated animals, taking charge of the younger children and much more. “Adolescence Program” activities, integrated with academic studies, help students discover their inner strength to meet life’s real challenges. ul. Badowska

The Canadian School of Warsaw International Elementary and Middle School Located on two campuses in the Mokotów this is the only authorized IB School with PYP programs taught in English and Polish. French is taught as a third language. Offers a wide range of extra activities, a summer school, and employs a full time psychologist.

Provision is made for additional Polish and English support. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create the perfect learning environment. ul. Bełska 7, tel. 692 411 573 /

19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, warsawmontessori.edu.pl

885 420 044, secretary@canadian-school.pl or secretary.olimpijska@canadian-school.pl

International Trilingual School of Warsaw Established in 1994, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fill-immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/saint-exupery.pl

The English Primary The English Primary is designed specifically for children in the primary education ages, just as children experience in England but in an international community. Pupils are taken through the key learning stages so that they can achieve to the best of their ability through a fun learning experience.

The Core Curriculum subjects include English, Phonics, Science, Mathematics, French, PE and Swimming, Music, Personal, Social and Health Education. ul.

International School of Warsaw The International School of Warsaw offers education for children from 3 to 18-years old. ISW provides a holistic education that combines a high quality international curriculum based on the International Baccalaureate with extra scholarly activities such as outdoor classes, robotics or STEAM. Lessons are conducted in English or French as main a language. Additionally, students can choose foreign language classes in Polish, Spanish, German, Chinese, Russian, or French. ISW is the only school in Poland accredited by the European Union. ul.

Monnet International School Located in Mokotów, the Monnett is the only school in Poland that implements the International Baccalaureate Program from kindergarten level all the way through to secondary school. The fully-qualified staff are committed to delivering only the highest standards of education. ul. Stępińska 13, tel. 22 852 06 08,

Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 784 037 808, tep.edu.pl

Mazowiecka 43, isw.edu.pl

3908, warsawmontessori.edu.pl

maturamiedzynarodowa.pl

Warsaw Montessori School Focuses on the Montessori curriculum with an education based on the integration of conceptual learning and real-life experiences. ul. Szwoleżerów 4, tel. 22 841

monnet international school

PADDINGTON BEAR KINDERGARTEN

IB World School no 001483

on's ngt LUB i d Pad EN'S C EN LDR CHI OW OP N

Education for a better world

Belwederska 6a, Warsaw

www.maturamiedzynarodowa.pl/przedszkole warsawinsider.pl

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DO! Health Listings gyms

It's Time to Learn Polish

Exuma Gym Warsaw’s latest luxury gym features equipment by Life Fitness and Hammer Strength, a wellness zone, private parking and stunning views of the National Stadium across the river. ul. Wioślarska

with the Hilton and Regent branches housing a 25-meter pool. Sauna and steam room facilities are available in all all three, as are a varied timetable of classes plus personal training. ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel), ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), holmesplace.pl

spas & salons

10, exumagym.com

Gravitan Gravitan features state-of-theart equipment, group classes and numerous specialists ranging from trainers and physios to beauticians and dieticians. Pl. Szwedzki 3 & ul.

Malborska 39, gravitan.pl

Polish for Foreigners kontakt@cupofpolish.com cupofpolish.com tel. +48 508 700 508

Holmes Place Energy High standard equipment, personal training and group classes. Six month membership available for approx. zł.

200 per month, though prices are subject to change. ul.

Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), holmesplace.pl

Holmes Place Premium Three ‘premium locations’,

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Clochee Natural, organic cosmetic brand that’s been dubbed a ‘pro-health project for your body and soul’. Using only certified ingredients, Clochee’s beauty products bring you closer to nature. Newlylaunched, their flagship store also houses a top-notch spa facilities. ul. Nowolipki 13, spa. clochee.com/spa

Creamy Atelier & SPA Founded on pillars of environmental awareness, a commitment to quality raw materials, expert knowledge and customized skincare formulas, Creamy offer a wide range of vegan oils and creams which are based on a

DO! Health Listings deeply nourishing Haitian elixir known as Moringa Oil. Beyond cosmetics, visit their atelier to indulge in their spa and enjoy diverse Haitian treatments that will rejuvenate the skin. ul.

The Pedicure Place A luxury pedi/manicure clinic with room for 10. All the latest OPI varnishes and over 200 colors guarantee you’ll find the latest in styling and nail care.

Chmielna 6 (Warsaw), creamy.pl

ul. Pokorna 2, pedicure-place.pl

ouch!

DEPILACJA WOSKIEM

Ouch!

Experts in waxing, Ouch! aim their offer at ‘busy women looking for express treatments with lasting effects who, at the same time, appreciate a sense of intimacy’. ul. Belwederska 32, ouch.pl

PARDON MY FRENCH

manicure pedicure

Pardon My French Manicure and pedicure treatments with high quality lacquers and an awareness of global trends: if you need an endorsement, Paul McCartney visited when he was in Poland! ul. Belwederska 32; Bonifraterska 8; ul. Mokotowska 56, ul. Wilcza 3 pardonmyfrench.pl

Retro Day Spa Royally indulgent interiors hark back to a different century, though the treatments are all hi-tech and include packages for pregnant women among the variety of beauty offers. Al. Ujazdowskie 18/11,

visitors hurtle down a ramp before splashing down on an inflatable mattress. ul. Wał

and also offers physiotherapy, Hawaiian massage, reflexology and kalari chikitsa. ul.

Miedzeszyński 646, hangar646.pl

Gałczyńskiego 4, astanga.pl

Hash House Harriers Billing themselves as ‘the drinking club with a running problem’, the Warsaw chapter of the Hash House Harriers meets every couple of weeks and welcomes runners and walkers of every level. Search for them on Facebook.

Bikram Yoga A new, modern studio equipped with lockers, showers and the requisite hot room. Practitioners of all levels – from newbie to old hand – are welcome. Al. Jana

retrodayspa.pl

sport Fly Spot Ever wanted to know what it’s like to fly? As in really fly??

Find out inside a vertical wind tunnel where fans whirring at a speed of up to 310 km/hr will send you shooting up in the air. Wspólna Droga 1 (Mory),

Stacja Grawitacja Set over 3,200 sq/m of space, this indoor trampoline extravaganza sends visitors bouncing down ‘ninja obstacle courses’, sky slamming basketball hoops and jumping around engaged in dodgeball shenanigans. ul. Bohaterów Września 12, stacjagrawitacja.pl

flyspot.com

Hangar 646 Hangar 646 touts 50 interlinked trampolines, a ping pong zone, ball pools and even a snowboard slide where

yoga & pilates Astanga Yoga Studio Established in 2005, this studio specializes in ashtanga

Pawła II 61, bikram.pl

Yoga Medica Using hatha yoga as the basis, the individualized approach to exercise comes from the founder’s background as a physiotherapist. Tailor-made programs ideal for those recovering from injury or health issues. ul. Racławicka 28, yogamedica.pl

Yoga Republic This studio combines the old school with the new, plus a nice dash of prewar charm with a touch of the east. Yoga Republic offers classes for pregnant women in addition to a full schedule of four other types of yoga to suit experience and expectations. ul. Śniadeckich 18, yogarepublic.pl

Hello Learn Polish with the best teachers in the biggest school i n Wa r s a w.

warsawinsider.pl

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DO! Shopping Listings accessories

Jeju Already a favorite of Poland’s style bibles, this Kraków-born operation enters the Warsaw market to present a wide range of top notch natural Polish cosmetics in a beautiful pink store that screams ‘girl gang’. ul. Mokotowska 71

EM Cashmere Boutique Available brands include Allude Cashmere, Annette Görtz, Studiorundholz and Sarah Pacini with 30-40% discounts on last year’s collections, and up to 70% on those of previous years. ul. Szczygla 8,

BeautyLab Polska Rated as one of the biggest names in global cosmetics, the range of treatments run from anti-ageing to daily body care and essential skin care.

Minty Dot Top quality Polish jewelry composed using gold, silver and natural stone. Contemporary in style, these are accessories that radiate class and craftsmanship while at the same time exuding a subtle sense of timeless romance. ul.

beautylablondon.pro

Bracka 5, mintydot.pl

di Trevi Boutique Aimed at both him and her, di Trevi present the freshest Italian footwear releases from prestigious brands such as Ballin and Loriblu. Piękna 11A,

Mo61 Billed as a ‘perfume laboratory’, Mo61 allows customers to create their own scents under the expert guidance of staff trained by Zygmunt Marczewski (“the best nose in Poland”!). ul. Mokotowska 61,

Just Paul Exuding confident femininity, this energetic brand is characterized by its light and unobtrusive elegance and sense of effortless nonchalance. Founded in 2012 by designers Justyna and Paula, Just Paul seeks to address the needs of the modern woman with its line in chic but casual clothing and more dazzly evening wear. ul. Mokotowska

Alba 1913 Founded in 1913 by Mieczysław Rychlicki, Alba’s high performance, self-care essentials harness three generations of herbal wisdom to create a range of cosmetics inspired by ideals of healthpowered holistic beauty. ul.

Mysia 3 (second floor)

ditrevi.pl

Glamstore Widely hailed by Poland’s fashion glossies, this store sells modern furnishings with all the trimmings and colors you could ask for. They also stock kitchen and bathroom accessories, as well as touting their own jewelry line.

mo61.pl

ul. Narbutta 83 (entry from ul. Łowicka)

Schubert Rings, bracelets, necklaces and watches produced using the finest Baltic amber. Or for a unique gift, how about an amber chess set or an amber cigarette lighter? ul.

Hard Rock Cafe No wardrobe is complete without the iconic Hard Rock t-shirt! Find the Warsawstamped version available here, along with other extras for the all American look.

Pingle Optyk A collection of hand-selected designer eyewear that is serious in terms of quality control, but entirely whimsical when it comes to design. ul. Hoża 40

Piwna 12/14, ul. Piwna 26, ul. Świętojańska 11, worldofamber.pl

ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), hardrockcafe.pl

fashion

HOS&me Luxury jewelry and the best in the biz. In stock: high end treasures from Nialaya, Lene Bjerre Design, Ti Sento, Christensen and Dryberg/ Kern. ul. Mokotowska 63,

Ania Kuczyńska Ania Kuczyńska is becoming well known for her highly fashionable, minimalist clothing designs. The store also carries adorable baby clothes and various accessories. ul.

mokotowska63.com

Mokotowska 61

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emcashmere.pl

61, justpaul.pl

Lui Store Elegant female fashion store with brands including Attico, Rixo London, 3.1 Philip Lim, Les Coyottes de Paris, Jonathan Simkhai, as well as lesser-known names making their first in-roads into the world of high fashion. ul.

Balmain, Beach Bunny, Burberry, Buscemi, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Cult Gaia, Francesco Russo, Gianvito Rossi, Golden Goose, Herve Leger, Isabel Marant, Kenzo, Maison Michel, Marc Jacobs, Manolo Blahnik, Moncler, OneTeaspoon, Self-Portrait, Tod’s, Tory Burch, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon, Zimmermann. ul. Moliera 2, moliera2.com

Pan Tu Nie Stal Polish design at its peak: fashion is prominent, but there’s also interesting bitsy things such as aprons, jam jars, notebooks and mugs – all with a defiantly Polish twist.

Eccentric, unusual and emphatically on-trend, it’s a must-visit. Koszykowa 35/40, pantuniestal.com

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Brands: Beach Bunny, Buscemi, Canada Goose, Casadei, Christian Louboutin Men, Dsquared2, Fay, Gianvito Rossi, Hogan, Kenzo, Moncler, Mr & Mrs Italy, OTS, Ralph Lauren, Tod’s, Tom Ford, Tory Burch, Valentino, Yves Salomon. Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, plactrzechkrzyzy.com

Mokotowska 26, lui-store.com

Maare On-trend Polish female fashion label with a flagship boutique on, it almost goes without saying, Mokotowska.

Known for their boho chic look and flowery dresses, the brand has fast gained a name for clothing that’s edgy and upmarket yet also highly affordable. ul. Mokotowska 46, maare.eu

Ptasia 6 A unique ladies concept store showcasing the works of both emerging and established independent Polish fashion labels such as Eva Grygo, Confashion, Horror! Horror!, Kasia Miciak and Polanka. ul.

Ptasia 6, ptasia6.pl

Reykjavik District Chic, well-cut menswear for all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal. ul. Burakowska 15, reykjavikdistrict.com

Moliera 2 Boutique Brands: Alexnadre Birman, Alexandre Vauthier, Aquazzura,

Risk. Made In Warsaw Mixing modern shapes with expert tailoring, the idea was

DO! Listings to create a look that’s both comfortable yet chic. That they’ve been featured in the likes of Vogue and Elle suggests that this target has been accomplished. ul. Szpitalna 9,

Collage’s portfolio ranges from jewelry and fashion to succulents and tableware.

Always stylish, the underlying quality of the products isn’t for dispute. ul. Rozbrat 28/30

riskmadeinwarsaw.com

Sabotage Those in-the-know know Sabotage as one of the places to buy funky deconstructed denim and sportswear pieces. Here you’ll find a wide array of unique clothes, hats, belts and handbags in a variety of fabrics and styles that hail straight from New York, London and Tokyo. ul.

Burakowska 5/7

Safripsti Formerly a make-up artist in London and Paris, owner Magdalena returned to Poland to open a vintage boutique.

Buying wholesale – meaning prices are kept in check – her fashion store presents finds like authentic cheerleader outfits and Hawaiian shirts for summer, not to mention a great selection of denim, parkers and so forth. ul.

Oleandrów 3

See Me Boutique Regarded as one of the stalwart boutiques of Mokotowska, See Me’s collection includes the latest lines from Joseph, Diane Von Furstenberg, Daniela De Marchi and many others besides. Scented interiors and expert service (who know how to brew a coffee) make it the ideal place in which to browse the afternoon the away. ul.

Mokotowska 51/53, seeme.com.pl

ferns, towering succulents and hard-to-find plants that are uncommon to Poland.

Impressive in scope and outlook, your home won’t ever feel the same. ul. Mokotowska

Galeria Mokotów Stores inc. Calvin Klein, Hollister, Hugo Boss, New Balance, Royal Collection and Timberland. ul. Wołoska 12, galeriamokotow.com.pl

71, plantarium.pl

DecoDialogue Working with both large manufacturers and smaller European design studios, DecoDialogue present a carefully sourced collection of furniture, textiles glassware and ceramics inside a beautifully outfitted space brimming with both statement pieces and more discreet little luxuries by the likes of Louis Poulsen, Lumio, Łyko, Klippan and Ton. ul. Kopernika 8/18, decodialogue.pl

Le Pukka For interior inspirations take a look at Le Pukka: highly original furniture and decorative pieces for the home come from the likes of Smeg, AreaDeclic, HK Living and Zuiver. ul. Solec 58/60, lepukka.pl

Makutra To know and not to cook, is not to know. This store has everything a master chef seeks: from tagines to mezzalunas, it’s got the lot covered. Huge stock of cook books and kitchenware. ul.

Oleandrów 5, makutra.com

Nap Bedtime accessories are the bread and butter here, but there’s also several bits for the kitchen as well: coffee makers by Tom Dixon, posh pans from Baumalu, arty saltshakers from Menu and tableware from Muubs. ul.

home & design

Mysia 3

Collage The idea is simple: to present all a woman needs under one roof. Specializing in beauty products and design pieces,

Plantarium Concentrating on low maintenance air plants, owner Kamila Ciszek has accrued a number of big, leafy

Porcelanowa Award-winning, contemporary Polish porcelain produced by cult, internationally recognized brands such as Aoomi and Fenek. ul. Kredytowa 2, porcelanowa.com

Rzeczownik Specializing in stationery, cards, notepads, and calendars, find Rifle Paper Co., Red Cap Cards, UStudio and 1973 among the brands available at this intriguing store. Ranging from the super cute to the ultra-cool, browseworthy items include graphic prints, ceramics, books and quirky little things for house and home. ul. Hoża St 59/1, rzeczownik.com SH Studio Art, interior design and furniture are married together inside a tiny store stacked with beautiful antique and retro pieces that have been refurbished and redesigned to lend them a contemporary edge. ul. Wilcza 44, s-h-studio.pl

Galeria Północna Białołęka’s first major shopping center includes Poland’s first outpost of Hamley’s, as well as stores such as Forever 21, Lagerfeld and Guess. Part of the ‘fourth generation of shopping centers’, includes some of the best kid’s facilities on Poland’s retail map. ul. Światowida 17, galeriapolnocna.pl

Klif House of Fashion Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has a line-up of top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko. ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl Plac Unii One of Warsaw’s latest mall counts Armani Jeans, Liu-Jo and Pandora amongst its upmarket tenants. ul. Puławska 2, placunii.pl

Mysia 3 Set in Poland’s former censorship office, the line-up includes Scandinavian fashion in Cos, shoes from My Paris, unconventional fashion from Nenukko and more. ul. Mysia 3, mysia3.pl

Velt Beautiful family-run glassware store whose pieces include the Leda lamp, awarded an honorable mention in the prestigious 2012 Red Dot Awards. ul. Próżna 12, velt.pl

shopping malls

Vitkac Poland’s first luxury department store gathers the world’s top designers under one roof, with brands including Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton, Stella McCartney and Rick Owens. And that’s the tip of the iceberg. Vitkac, ul. Bracka 9, likusconceptstore.pl

Arkadia Not many Polish malls do it better. Stores inc. Mango, Lacoste, Guess, Hilfiger and Peek & Cloppenburg. Al. Jana

Złote Tarasy Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Jatomi Health and Fitness Club. ul.

Pawła II 82, arkadia.com.pl

Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl warsawinsider.pl

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General Listings 5-Star Hotels

tel. 22 255 9590, raffles.com/ warsaw

Bellotto ul. Senatorska 13/15, tel. 22 829 6444, hotelbellotto.pl

Hampton by Hilton ul. Wspólna 72, tel. 22 317 2700, hamptoninn3.hilton.com

Regent Warsaw Hotel ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, regent-warsaw.com

Bristol Hotel

The Rialto Boutique Hotel

ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1000, hotelbristolwarsaw.pl

ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8700, rialto.pl

Avis Radisson Blu Sobieski pl. Zawiszy 1, tel. 22 579 1000, sobieski.com.pl

ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 553 8700, info@h15ab.com, h15ab.com

ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6100, sheraton.pl

ul. Złota 48/54, tel. 22 697 3999, mercure.com

Hilton Warsaw

InterContinental

Sofitel Warsaw Victoria

ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, warsaw.intercontinental.com

ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8011, sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com

Mamaison Le Régina Hotel

Westin

ul. Kościelna 12, tel. 22 531 6000, mamaison.com

Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, westin.pl

Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 6306, warsawmarriott.com

Raffles Europejski Warsaw ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13,

ul. Krucza 28, tel. 22 583 2100, mercure.com

Courtyard by Marriott Hotel (Airport) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 0100, warszawacourtyard.pl

ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555 / 800 44 11 482, hilton.com

Marriott

Mercure Grand Warszawa

Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888, radissonblu.com

Novotel Warszawa Centrum ul. Marszałkowska 94/98, tel.

22 596 0000, novotel.com, accorhotels.com

Polonia Palace Hotel Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. 22 318 2800, poloniapalace.com

4-Star Hotels

Warsaw Plaza Hotel

Airport Hotel Okęcie

ul. Łączyny 5, tel. 885 886 100, warsawplazahotel.pl

ul. 17-ego Stycznia 24, tel. 22 456 8000, airporthotel.com.pl

ul. Emili Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, warsaw.intercontinental. com

www.city-tour.com.pl

MaMaison Residence Diana

Yellow Double-Decker Bus

Invites you to experience a panoramic tour of tourist attractions of the capital of Poland, Warsaw, in a relaxing and comfortable way.

ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 9100, mamaison.com/diana

Traveling over the course of approximately 1,5 hour, a double-decker bus will take you past many beautiful and interesting places of Warsaw, such as its interesting districts, palaces and churches, monuments and museums, parks and historical cemeteries, as well as the Jewish historical sites.

B&B

A GPS 12 language audio-guide, will give explanations and accompany you to make your ride a more adventurous, exciting and an unforgettable one.

Excellent Hop on Hop off and one trip service operates every day all year round.

Between Us Bed & Breakfast 5% DISCOUNT with this ad

100 Warsaw Insider | JANUARY 2019

ul. Bracka 20, tel. 22 8285417 (from 10 a.m. to 11p.m.), betweenus.eu

Boutique B&B

Line approved by municipal authorities.

www.city-tour.com.pl

+48 500 033 414

Hertz Rent a Car Okęcie Airport, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 2896; mob. 691 411 130. ul. Nowogrodzka 27, tel. 22 621 1360.

relocation companies AGS Warsaw ul. Julianowska 37, Piaseczno, agsmovers.com

CorstJens Worldwide Movers ul. Nowa 23, Stara Iwiczna, corstjens.com

Euro Move International Movers ul. Kineskopowa 1, euromove.pl

apartments InterContinental

w W a r s a

Fredrick Chopin Airport, tel. 22 650 4872, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 575 6583, avis.pl

Mecure Warszawa Centrum

Sheraton H15 Boutique

car rental

ul. Smolna 14/6, tel. 22 829 4800, bedandbreakfast.pl

Move One Relocations Also immigration assistance, fine art shipping, pet transport and consulting services. Check their website for more details. ul. Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 8160, moveonerelo.com

Relo Planet International, domestic and office removals, corporate and individual relocations, fine art shipping, storage, insurance, as well as a full range of assistance services (immigration, etc.). ul. Batalinou Platerówek 3, reloplanet.com

Warsaw Guide COPERNICUS SCIENCE CENTRE

check out a former nuclear bunker by visiting the once top secret Obiekt Alfa (obiektalfa.pl). Lastly, take a look at what’s on at Dom Spotkań z Historią, a small exhibition space that specializes in quirky photo exhibits that explore Warsaw’s past – though subject matter varies to cover differing chapters of the city’s history, the PRL era receives the lion’s share of attention.

MODERN WARSAW

THE ESSENTIALS...

Cut through the chaff and time manage your visit as effectively as possible.

THE OLD…

The Old Town, raised from the rubble after WWII, is symbolic of this ‘phoenix city’, and fully deserving of its UNESCO listed status. The Royal Castle is a maze of fancy chambers and important paintings by the likes of Rembrandt and Canaletto, while the Museum of Warsaw offers a peerless peek into the complexities of Warsaw’s story. To soak in the extravagances of Poland’s imperial years, take a walk around the immaculate Łazienki Park or, further out, visit Wilanów Palace: frequently nicknamed ‘the Polish Versailles’, the landscaped gardens are as unmissable as the former royal chambers and that’s especially true come winter when they’re turned into a dazzling labyrinth of pulsating lights. Finally, tap into the very essence of the Polish soul by visiting the new Vodka Museum on the right side of town.

JEWISH WARSAW

Though largely flattened, the former Jewish Ghetto contains numerous memorials, among them the Umschlagplatz monument marking

the spot where trains departed for the gas chambers of Treblinka. The one synagogue that survived (Twarda 6) is the center of local Jewish life, while the innovative Polin museum covers all aspects of this nation’s complex and often fraught Jewish history. Learn more in exchange for zilch by hooking up with: freewalkingtour.com

COMMUNISM

A full tour of Stalin’s Palace of Culture is a must: the basements (protected from rodents by a team of feline guardians) are wild and the viewing terrace unimpeachable. Check the more ambient side to Communism in the Neon Museum and then check to see if Czar PRL (czarprl.pl) has reopened in their new location on Pl. Konstytucji. A charmingly eccentric look at everyday life under Communism, this fantastic museum is scheduled to reopen at some time in January. If it’s not, then do the next best thing and contact their sister company, Adventure Warsaw (adventurewarsaw.com) for a commie-themed tour around town in a knackered militia van. Equally weird,

Wonder amid romping kids and whirring machines in the Copernicus Science Centre and after, visit the university library to explore the stunning rooftop garden – it’s like something from another cosmos. The Museum of Modern Art is a short walk away while across the water, the stateof-the-art National Stadium conducts regular tours and thrills both stadium nerds and football fans alike.

ART

Art lovers flock to the National Museum for its determined presentation of art through the ages. The Zachęta, the Modern Art Museum and CSW are more alternative with captivating exhibitions that excite non-conformists. That said, some of the city’s best art is found on its walls: Praga and Muranów are particularly known for their large format wall murals.

PEOPLE

The watchful shadow of Chopin, the city’s favorite son, looms large across Warsaw: the museum dedicated to his memory amazes by the breadth of its scope. If you’ve got time, a trip to his birthplace in Żelazowa Wola is a rewarding experience, not least in autumn months when the gardens are a riot of carrot and caramel colors.

Onto other local greats, the Marie Curie Museum in New Town does a splendid job of remembering the world’s most famous female science boffin. warsawinsider.pl

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Last Impressions

THREE MINUTES WITH… Julia Wollner

My favorite Warsaw secret is…

Its hidden Mediterranean side. I love southern-inspired buildings such as Antonio Corazzi’s Artichoke Villa and Władysław Marconi’s the House Under The Giants on Ujazdowskie. In the 1920’s critics would ask why the gate of the building was held up by naked giants if the Polish climate was so cold... They had a point!

How does Hoża make the world a better place?

It reminds visitors and habitants of the beauty of the great Mediterranean concept: the small homeland. It’s like a miniature center of the universe, a place that we draw power from, create together and look after. It’s a community within a community.

Psycho-analyze Warsaw…

Fun, fearless, female. Isn’t that from Cosmopolitan magazine? And yes, cosmopolitan also. Last, but not least, Warsaw, as our coat of arms reminds us, is a mermaid – a hybrid and a sacred, immortal creature.

If you were a time traveler, which period in Warsaw’s history (or future) would you visit…

I’d die to meet Giacomo Casanova and party with him! He visited our capital in 1765, had a few fights over women, got wounded and hid-out in a monastery on Senatorska. In his diaries, he emphasized many times that Polish women were not particularly pretty. In my bag, I’d have photos of some of my beautiful girlfriends to prove him wrong!

A weird, arthouse film about your life in Warsaw would begin how…

City center, a female driver is becoming increasingly agitated and aggressive while looking for parking... From a calm Slavic girl she turns into a Mediterranean femme fatale ready to kill for her cause.

From my window at home I see…

Julia is an Italianist, writer, exponent of Mediterranean culture and the owner of Lente - Modern Mediterranean Restaurant on Hoża 43/49. Check her blog, at: lentemagazyn.com

104 Warsaw Insider | JANUARY 2019

KEVIN DEMARIA

A huge, beautiful horse chestnut tree. They’re not native to Poland and were probably brought here from the Balkan Peninsula. It’s a known story that when King Stefan Batory was elected, first thing he did was ask his Italian architect to plant as many horse chestnuts as possible around his mansion. In previous centuries they were believed to protect from evil powers. Mine does! It also makes me feel like a Queen and is a little piece of the South in my Northern-European courtyard.

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