Warsaw Insider February 2018 #258

Warsaw The Capital’s Original City Magazine Since 1996

FEBRUARY 2018

258 02/2018

INDEKS 334901 ISSN:1643-1723

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Valentine’s Hot List Interview: Patrick Ney Romancing Powiśle Dreamy Drinks For Two Travel: Podgórze

ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER AQUAZZURA ALEXANDRE BIRMAN ALEXANDRE BIRMAN ANYA HINDMARCH BALMAIN AQUAZZURA BURBERRY BALMAIN BUSCEMI BUSCEMI CASADEI CASADEI CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN CHRISTIANELIE LOUBOUTIN SAAB SAAB FRANCESCO ELIE RUSSO FRANCESCO RUSSO GIANVITO ROSSI GIANVITO ROSSI HERVE LEGER HERVE LEGER ISABEL MARANT ISABELKENZO MARANT KENZO MAISON MICHEL KOTUR MARC JACOBS LORO PIANA MANOLO BLAHNIK MAISON MICHEL MR & MRS ITALY MANOLO BLAHNIK ONETEASPOON ONETEASPOON SELF – PORTRAIT SELF – PORTRAIT TOD’S TOD’S TORY BURCH BURCH VICTORIA TORY BECKHAM VICTORIA BECKHAM ZIMMERMANN YVES SALOMON

tel.: 228277099, www.Moliera2.com

editorial INFRONT

Editor-in-chief Alex Webber

4 Take a Number 8 News 10 Architecture 14 Interview:

insider@warsawinsider.pl Art Director Kevin Demaria insider@warsawinsider.pl Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com

Patrick Ney

FEATURES

Contributors: Stuart Dowell Maria Mileńko Michał Miszkurka Ed Wight

16 Powiśle

Stroll 8 Valentine’s 1 Hot List 22 Travel: Kraków

Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com

PARTNER SPOTLIGHT

27 The latest marketplacenews from the Warsaw Insider’s friends and advertisers

EAT!

31 Review:

KoreaTown Rest 3 2 Review: Pink Lobster 34 Review: Fest Port Czerniakowski 36 Roundup: Sweet Eats

DRINK!

FEBRUARY 2018

ey Account Manager K Agata Sicińska asicinska@valkea.com

H

ands-up who thought we’d skipped winter entirely and moved straight to spring? Well, silly you. As if life in Poland is ever that easy, in the blink of an eye the weather turned from crisp and mild to utterly wild – by morning, it was a total white-out with cars encased in blocks of ice. Okay, maybe not that bad, but you get the idea. So whatever February holds, surely it can’t get any worse? Of course it can. Feb means Valentine’s Day, the deadliest minefield you’ll ever come to cross. In light of this, this month we’ve sent in the special forces to clear the path and make things simple: inside, we’ve got the ultimate rundown of what to do and where to do it. Elsewhere, we take five minutes with British blogging sensation Patrick Ney, flipout over a pinball museum and head out of town for a quick trip to Kraków – just not the Kraków you may be used to. As always, enjoy the read and see ya’ next month.

ey Account Manager K Joanna Łysik jlysik@valkea.com ey Account Manager K Aleksandra Dzięcielewska adziecielewska@valkea.com Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com Subscription 12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland.

Orders can be placed through: insider@warsawinsider.pl Printed by Zakład Poligraficzny TECHGRAF Tel. (17) 225-28-69

65 Review:

DO!

79 Review: Pinball

Station 80 Museums 92 Guide: Essentials 94 Map 96 Insider Finds

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Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

on the cover Świętokrzyski Bridge gets a record number of mentions this month, so why not go the whole hog and whack it on the cover?

(Illustration by Michał Miszkurka)

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2018

VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies. All information ©2018 Warsaw Insider.

PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT

CoffeeDesk 36 Roundup: Drinks For Two

BURBERRY CANADA GOOSE CASADEI CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN FAY GIANVITO ROSSI KENZO MONCLER MR & MRS ITALY ONETEASPOON RALPH LAUREN TOD’S TORY BURCH VALENTINO BURBERRY CHILDREN DSQUARED2 KIDS KENZO KIDS MONCLER KIDS

Pl. Trzech Krzyzy 3/4 tel.: +48 226221416, www.PlacTrzechKrzyzy.com

number

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Meters tall

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A set of sick trees have been saved from the executioner’s axe after being granted a last minute reprieve by a group of local councilors. Severely damaged in last summer’s storms, they had originally been slated for the grinder before a campaign led by Barbara Laszczkowska persuaded decision makers to grant the trees a new lease of life. Enter Andrzej Zawadzki, a self-taught chainsaw artist whose works have featured in the films of Agnieszka Holland. Hired to transform the trees into something magical, Zawadzki’s opening salvo saw the January creation of a two-meter bear modeled on Miś Uszatek – the floppy-eared hero of a cult TV series. But that’s not all. An owl sitting on a pile of books has also now been added, and we’ve been told to anticipate the imminent arrival of a leprechaun and an ‘enchanted toadstool’. To see for yourself, head to Pl. Baśniowy in the wilds of Ochota.

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2018

KEVIN DEMARIA

take a

BANJALUKA 2/4 Szkolna, Warsaw +48228281060 banjaluka.pl Facebook.com/BANJALUKA.WWA Instagram: @banjaluka_warszawa

MOMU 9/11 Wierzbowa, Warsaw +48506100001 momu.pl Facebook.com/MOMU Instagram: @momu_pieczemy_dymem

If you haven’t heard about us yet, you should know that we have been on the Warsaw gastronomy map for over 13 years. In the meantime, we moved from Mokotow to the Centre of Warsaw. We are inspired by colourful, diversified but still undiscovered Balkans. Gourmet kitchen open late into the evening, live music every day, Sunday animations are the reasons for which our guests appreciate us the most.

If, however, you already know us, then you probably tried the lamb chops by our chef Olaf Michalczyk who says with a smile on his face: “I put my lamb chops, against all other cutlets in this city”. It is also hard not to know Mrs. Kate’s apple pie and Mrs. Anna’s cheesecake which are smashing the system. Regional rakija, Croatian and Slovenian wines and beer from Bosnia probably also sound familiar to you. If that’s the case, we are sure we will see each other again very soon.

MOMU specializes in roasted food, utilizing traditional cooking techniques to create a top-quality menu. The kitchen’s wood fire oven enhances the flavour of MOMU’s meat, fish, vegetables, fruit and cheese, with no preservatives or enhancers.

The restaurant takes pride in its regional menu, using only the best ingredients from Polish suppliers.

Alongside the kitchen you’ll also find a fully stocked bar, with a variety of wine, beer and whisky specially designed to accompany your meal. MOMU is also home to a unique atmosphere, with daily performances from local musicians.

AïOLI inspired by Gdańsk 6 Partyzantów, Gdańsk aioliinspiredbygdansk.pl Facebook.com/AIOLIxGDANSK Instagram: @aiolixgdansk

AIOLI Cantine Bar Cafe Deli 18 Świętokrzyska, Warsaw +48226572126 aioli-cantine.com Facebook.com/ AIOLICantineSwietokrzyska Instagram: @aioli_swietokrzyska

Not a restaurant, but a city cantine that offers an adventure with a Mediterranean twist in fast food gourmet. AïOLI inspired by Gdańsk is the only gastronomic concept combining a cantina, tattoo studio and barber shop - all in one place at 6 Partyzant street.

AïOLI is a modern urban canteen bustling from the early hours to the last guest. The menu features breakfast, snacks, salads, sandwiches, pastas, burgers and pizzas. The chefs regularly surprise with seasonal, spontaneous cuisine. Every night DJs play for guests, making the place vibrant with life like all popular European city canteens. This is the place where the Mediterranean kitchen merges with lifestyle.

Thank you for being with us - you come to a place which you yourself create!

AïOLI is a bar, café and deli, and was created with three factors in mind: a passion for good-quality food, the joy of a Southern style of living and a love of beautiful interiors. The owners decided to combine these ideas, concentrating on achieving great quality through simple ingredients. Now one of the stars of the Warsaw gastronomic scene, it is known for its creative Italian cuisine with American influences, its industrial interior, and music from Warsaw’s best DJs – not to mention its signature AïOLI, a staple of southern European cooking. Our tip: try the Taleggio pizza.

News Briefs

WALL OF MEMORY

A new mural has been unveiled honoring the role Żegota played during the Nazi occupation.

Otherwise known as the Polish Council to Aid Jews, the underground organization has been credited with saving as many as 12,000 people from extermination and was recognized for its work by Yad Vashem in 1963. The artwork, which covers the wall running outside the entrance to Metro Centrum, was unveiled on December 4th to coincide with the 75th anniversary of the movement’s official foundation.

LIGHT FANTASTIC

Over 40 years since the original was engulfed in flames, a copy of the neon that once spanned the CEDET building has been restored to the facade. Completed in 1951, the department store was regarded as a post-war modernist marvel and specifically designed by architects to ‘cast light onto Warsaw’.

This much it did, though perhaps not in the way the planners intended. In 1975 a suspicious blaze broke out that left the building gutted and its signature neon little more than a pool of melted muck. In the immediate aftermath it was reconstructed on the cheap, and it wasn’t until a recent program of redevelopment was undertaken that the neon found itself returned. The building is due to re-open sometime in Q2.

The local public transport authority, ZTM, have got tongues wagging following the introduction of a new logo. The design features a ‘t’ (denoting transport), with a mermaid-style tail enclosed inside a circle (meant to symbolize the public). Not everyone, however, is happy with the results, least of all the graphics team who claim they weren’t consulted on the implementation of the logo and that ZTM have lost out on the chance of creating a clear visual identity for the city’s transport network.

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Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2018

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: PRESS MATERIAL, KEVIN DEMARIA, WIKICOMMONS

LOGO NO GO?

NEW SEASONAL MENU

www.panska85.com.pl

Architecture

What A Comeback!

Mere months after it was flattened, Warsaw’s landmark Emilia building looks set for a dramatic return..

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PRESS MATERIAL

O

pened in 1970, Dom Meblowy Emilia was hailed as one of the outstanding examples of post-war modernism in Poland, largely thanks to a visionary aesthetic reliant on wide open spaces and a glass facade designed to ‘blur the lines between outside and in’. When it was announced that the plot it stood on had been sold to make way for a skyscraper, the news was met first with anger and then disbelief. Disbelief because rather than just demolishing the structure, the decision was taken to dismantle it and then reassemble it across the road.

“This project has no precedent,” says Deputy Mayor, Michał Olszewski, “this is the first time the city has concluded an agreement with a private contractor to relocate a historic building.” Costing approximately 25 million, the ambitious project is set to get underway in the coming months and will see Emilia 2.0 rise next to Świętokrzyski Park.

Earmarked to serve as a cultural center and meeting space, the plans include the introduction of heavy bursts of greenery and a grass-covered roof. “We hope to integrate the building with the park space outside,” says Wojciech Kotecki of BBGK Architecki, “with Emilia functioning as an urban conservatory and meeting place, not to mention as an object resistant to frost and smog.”

Interview

Say Ney More

Racking up millions of views on his YouTube channel, British blogger Patrick Ney has become an internet sensation with a string of videos that place his adopted country under the microscope...

WI: Poland – how did it happen for you then...

PN: I had just come back to England following a trip to Sierra Leone in 2007. I had fallen quite ill but rather than visiting the tropical diseases unit I went to the pub to see my mates – I met a Polish girl there and that’s where the adventure began. Pretty soon we were traveling back and forth and, eventually, crunch time came and I moved out here.

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How did the blogging begin?

I don’t regard myself as a writer or an artist, but all my life I’ve been ‘creating content’ - singing, writing for the school paper, working as a drum’n’bass MC (which I still do!), etc. When I came to Poland it felt natural to blog about my time here. It was standard stuff about life in Warsaw, but then I decided to take it to the next level and started

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2018

blogging in Polish. Even though my written Polish was rubbish I figured I’d try and push through that barrier.

And the videos naturally followed?

Around 2014 I sat down and wrote a poem about Independence Day – actually, I hadn’t intended for it to be a poem, more a piece of text, but it was one of those rare moments when the words come almost sub-consciously spilling out. After I posted it, the reaction it received was visceral; people were telling me it had made them both laugh and cry. I realized it was a special piece of text and, seeing we had been doing some videos at work, I asked a friend to record me reciting it and see what

happened. The video was bad but the core content was strong and it got about a million views in a short space of time. That was the first time I’d gone viral and that was the light bulb moment when I realized that recording film was easier than writing blogs.

What do you hope your vlogs achieve?

I’ve got three aims: to promote the country I love, Poland; to help Polish people see their country in a new light; and to make people laugh. I want to ask difficult questions about the society I live in without being too political – after all, I’m British.

Us Brits express political opinion, but we don’t march around shouting at the top of our voices whilst waving placards in the air.

>>>

Interview

What’s coming in 2018?

No more stupid vlogs that discuss topics like ‘are Polish women better!’ - things like that just don’t add any value to society at all. Instead I have plans for five videos, things that I hope might make a little difference and push the country forward.

Obviously, Warsaw features highly in your work...

The story of Warsaw is the story of Poland and what could be more Polish than the Warsaw Uprising? The way it still brings people together on August 1st genuinely moves me to tears. One pipeline video will be about the Uprising, and I’m treating this almost as if it were my gift to Poland. It won’t get millions of views, but I hope that in years to come it’ll become the one documentary that people refer to: I don’t want it to be a typical history video, rather something that tells you the facts in that fast-paced, full on way young people demand.

What spurred you to immerse yourself in the language?

I had that lack of certainty

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and that feeling of not understanding what was going on around me – that hurt me bitterly so from the outset I had this very strong urge to learn. I actually went through a whole phase whilst working at the British Embassy during which people were only allowed to speak to me in Polish: I’d memorized fifty phrases, mainly for comedy purposes, and threw myself in.

How important is it to speak Polish?

I think you can’t understand the culture without first understanding the language – it gives you access to the way people think. For instance, one time I was standing in line in Lidl and, for whatever reason, remarked to the woman in front that she had bought a hell of a lot chocolate.

“When I was young,” she replied, “I couldn’t buy what I wanted. Now I can, so I do.” It was a pedestrian comment, maybe, but it opened my eyes and made me realize that the things she had gone through in her childhood had given her a different outlook to mine. Being able to speak to

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2018

people, listen to the radio or read the papers allows me to uncurl the layers of the onion in the search of what it means to be Polish.

Let’s keep it light! What’s Poland’s super power...

In 1990 this was a country making things that no-one else wanted using skills that no-one else needed. It took less than a quarter of a century for it to become the 23rd largest economy in the world. Exports tripled in the space of a decade.

That’s an incredible story right there. It’s the story of the little entrepreneur in Białystok that started his business in a garage and then went on to build a factory; it’s the story of those workers who went abroad and sent their money back to their families. Most of all, it’s the story of tens of millions of people who didn’t wait for others to make their lives better, but went out themselves and seized their chance. So that’s Poland’s super power: her people.

Have you ever had a moment when you’ve thought, crikey, I’ve gone native?

I went to watch England v Poland at Wembley... as a Poland fan. I’ve been to loads of England matches before, I even followed them to the World Cup in South Africa, so this felt so wrong – like sleeping with your brother’s wife! Before the game we went to get some beers from the shop but the queues were stretching right down to the fridges.

Anyhow, I picked up a few cans and then saw, near the head of the queue, that one guy had turned away from the counter to talk to his mate. That was it – I inserted myself into the line. That felt even more anti-British than supporting the other team! That’s definitely the most purely Polish thing I’ve ever done. Of course, I don’t want to over-state it – if you cut me then I’d bleed red and white, but at the core there’ll always be the Union Jack. Even so, that was the moment when I realized that the English caterpillar had become a Polish butterfly.

If Warsaw was a Big Brother contestant, what would she be like?

Lovable. Most foreigners you meet really love this city but can’t explain why: it’s a place that elicits strong feelings of loyalty.

If it was a person, then it’d be the same. People would adore her, even if she occasionally annoyed them!

She wouldn’t be glam or glitzy like other contestants, and though I wouldn’t say she needed plastic surgery, you’d certainly advise Warsaw to look after herself a little bit more. For sure though, she’d be a viewers favorite!

For more on Patrick and his work, see: fb.com/ PaddislawWedrowniczek

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VALENTINE’S WALK POWIŚLE

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1. MOST ŚWIĘTOKRZYSKI 2. MERMAID 3. COPERNICUS SCIENCE CENTER 4. MUSEUM ON TH VISTULA 5. DZIURKA OD KLUCZA 6. BEZ GWIAZDEK 7. KAFKA 8. UL. KAROWA 9. BRISTOL HOTEL

POWIŚLE HAND IN HAND

The charms of Old Town are obvious, and while there’s nothing stopping you from conducting a Valentine’s walk around there (again...), it’s Powiśle that’s emerged as the new place to head...

Reputedly‘the most filmed bridge in Poland’, the slender silhouette of the 479-meter Świętokrzyski Bridge has become iconic of modern Warsaw. Completed in 2000, the city’s first suspension bridge has appeared in everything from bank adverts to car commercials.

However, its associations with Polish ‘rom coms’ are especially pronounced with the crossing playing a prominent role in box office hits such as Tylko Mnie Kochaj and Nigdy w Życiu. As a consequence, Świętokrzyski has found its railings festooned with love locks.

Ś W I Ę T O K R Z YS K I B R I D G E

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There aren’t many things more romantic than a mermaid except, maybe, a mermaid found in front of the most romantic bridge in town. In this case, though, there’s a bitter poignancy to the Syrena that stands within eye shot of Świętokrzyski. Unveiled in Warsaw on the eve of WWII, the sculpture was modeled on a 23-year-old poetess that later died from injuries sustained on the first day of the 1944 Warsaw Uprising.

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There’s nothing sexier than science: the Copernicus Science Center is filled with interactive exhibitions that encourage competitive fun, and none more so than Re: Generation. In this section, visitors ‘enter a world of emotions’ and are challenged to examine their relationships with others.

“What happens inside your head when you’re scared, in love, sad or telling lies?” Find the answers here...

There’s something about the intellectually charged atmosphere of a gallery that sends a frisson of excitement coursing through 2. the veins. Priding itself on edgy works that stimulate the mind, the Museum on the Vistula (a department of Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw) could have been built with intense encounters in mind.

Walking around this cubed white building, who doesn’t feel like a French academic embarking on an affair? No word yet on what exhibition (if any) will be on display come Valentine’s Day, but even if there’s nothing then content yourself by visiting the cafe and talking in whispers whilst sharing a coffee.

Providing you haven’t just been exposed as a lying, cheating hound, then head next for dinner. There’s no shortage of romantic venues in Powiśle, though two stand out in particular: striking a lavender look, Dziurka Od Klucza is an inviting Italian restaurant filled with curious doors that sit embedded into the walls, as if waiting to be opened by the keys that hang from the tree outside. Close by, Bez Gwiazdek instantly seduces with its innovative regional-focused menu and warm, amiable style. After, consider coffee in Kafka, a bookish bolthole with an arty ambiance.

MUSEUM ON THE VISTULA

BEZ GWIAZDEK

So it’s an uphill climb, but there aren’t many routes that are more visually delicious than the trek up ul.

Karowa. Pass the fin de siècle viaduct before hitting the curly twists and turns of this scenic-looking street. On a foggy February night, it feels almost Dickensian in atmosphere.

Subject to a sensitive facelift, the grand old lady that is the Bristol Hotel has the powerful ability to strike awe into visitors – and that’s just from the outside. Inside, step into the Column Bar to be swept off your feet. A splendid relic of a bygone age, sip classic cocktails while the tinkles of the pianist swirl under the cavernous, ornamented ceilings.

D Z I U R K A O D K LU C Z A

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HOT LIST VALENTINE’S DAY

ROMANCING

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WARSAW

With Valentine’s Day upon us, the Insider finds 14 ideas for both that special day and beyond...

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HOT LIST VALENTINE’S DAY FOR... SOMETHING CLASSIC Under a crisp powdering of snow, elegant Łazienki Park is the seminal winter stroll. But it is a fool that forgets ul. Agrykola that cuts down her side: fringed by 19th century gas lamps, walk down in the evening when halos of light form like beacons around these streetlights.

FOR... ALTERNATIVE ENTERTAINMENT It’s hard to remember the last venue that was able to offer such a diverse program of events as Worek Kości (fb. com/worekkosci). Under the hollow gaze of hundreds of skulls (“About 400,” speculates the owner), guests kick back inside a dark, shadowy bar that seems to summon the spirit of H.P Lovecraft. Blurring the line between the theatrical and macabre, it’s fitting that this venue has become the premier spot for a taste of the burlesque: visit on the 15th to watch Master B. Boylesque and his troupe of alternative artistes. On Valentine’s night itself, join Zuzanna Federowicz as she entertains on the harp and cello. Admission for both events is free, though you’re advised to book a table way in advance.

FOR... BACK ROW ROMEOS Cinemas have long been regarded as refuges for the romantic, so it’s heartbreaking to learn that, by in large, Warsaw prefers to watch Transformers and Star Wars down the local mall.

Both Kino Luna and Ilujzon are likely to offer something a bit more cerebral though neither had announced their plans at press time. Kino Muranów, a slightly, creepy Lynch-esque-looking leftover from PRL times will be showing The Big Sick, a rom-com that premiered at Sundance last year to widespread acclaim. A little more leftfield, U-Jazdowski Kino will be playing The Disaster Artist and The Room.

FOR... THRILL SEEKERS Act out that ‘Knight In Shining Armor’ fantasy of yours by saving your partner from lunatics and zombies: marketed as an ‘interactive museum of fear’, the Horror House (fb.com/ horrorhouse.warszawa) is a terrifying trip inside your biggest fears – visit, for there’s nothing more romantic than sharing a bloody good scare!

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FOR... SOMETHING FURTHER AFIELD Whether you class it as a stream, drainage ditch or a canal, it’s hard to think of a more romantic one in the whole of, well, Wilanów. While Potok Służewiecki doesn’t look like much, it gets Cupid’s endorsement on account of Most Zakochanych, a Lilliputian bridge that finds itself enveloped by a series of giant hearts that light up at night. Having made the 12-meter crossing, take an evening stroll around the Royal Garden of Light outside the nearby Wilanów Palace – it’s an experience that’s both surrealistic and enchanting.

love locks clinging like limpets to the railings. Go on... be wreckless!

FOR... SOME HUFF & PUFF There are some who associate Valentine’s with physical activity (no, not that kind). Join hundreds of other couples for the fourth edition of Bieg Dla Par in Park Skaryszewski on Feb 11th. For registration info and further details, check their Polish-language website at: biegdlapar.pl

FOR... SWINGERS! The Valentine’s Blues never felt better – running from Feb 9th to 11th, join other blues dancers for a series of workshops lasting from four to twelve hours. Organized by the largest swing dancing studio in the city, coordinators have promised “workshops during the day, followed by concerts and parties at night.” For further info, see: valentinesblues.pl

FOR... THE SENSES Him and her are advised to join forces before stepping inside Mo61 (mo61. com), a fancypants ‘perfume laboratory’ in which couples are guided by staff trained by Zygmunt Marczewski (a.k.a ‘Poland’s top nose’!) as they concoct their own bespoke perfume inside a timeless pre-war space.

FOR... KITCHEN MAESTROS Forget stuffy, old restaurants packed with once-a-year diners, instead book yourself onto one of the gazillion cooking classes that have kept couples in mind. Cook-Up Studio (fb. com/CookUpStudio) will be offering a week of ‘Valentine’s classes’ with the focus shifting daily on different cuisines, while the Whirlpool Academy (fb.com/AkademiaKulinarnaWhirlpool) will be opening on the 14th for a super special ‘Valentine’s For Two’. Though the official language of instruction stands to be Polish, both should have English-speakers on hand should you require.

FOR... VANDALS So we’ve already covered this elsewhere in the mag, but if you want to go native this Valentine’s then head thee to Most Świętokrzyski: it’s here that you’ll find hundreds of dopey

FOR... A PHOTO TO TREASURE It’s probably a sign of the times that Warsaw’s best-known heart isn’t Chopin’s pickled ticker (encased inside a jar of cognac set within a column in the Church of the Holy Cross), but rather the glowing neon found on Pl. Europejski. Since making its debut the Kocham Warszawę sign has become as much of a landmark as the Warsaw Spire that towers above it.

A selfie stood in front of the heartshaped ‘O’ is on its way to becoming a local Valentine’s custom.

FOR... SKATERS For a date on ice there’s nothing that beats the Old Town Square. Gliding around the ice as snow tumbles down feels like one of those rare moments of magic that forges memories forever. Retreat afterwards to the pseudo shelter offered by the wooden cabins vending mulled wine.

FOR... THE IMPASSIONED Whip yourself into a sexy South American sizzle by joining a tango class. There’s oodles to pick from, though Caminito (caminito.pl) and Złota Milonga (milonga.pl) are often regarded as ‘the best of the best’.

Both are likely to organize something memorable for the big night in question.

FOR... SWEETHEARTS Substantially shorter, and cheaper, than any of the cookery classes on offer, enlist for one of the chocolatemaking workshops at Manufaktura Czekolady (manufakturaczekolady. pl). There’s two classes to note: one aimed at singletons on Feb 13th, and one for couples the following day.

Both last 90 minutes and are priced at zł. 50 per head.

ALL PHOTOS COURTESY OF EXCEPT BOTTOM LEFT: ANETA MIKULSKA, TOP RIGHT KEVIN DEMARIA

M A N U FA K T U R A C Z E KO L A DY

PL. EUROPEJSKI

B I E G D L A PA R

VA L E N T I N E ’ S B LU E S

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TILL A victim of its own success, Kraków’s Old Town reached saturation point years ago. But not all of the city finds itself fighting the invasion of the tourist hordes...

BY ALEX WEBBER PHOTOS BY ED WIGHT

LAST... warsawinsider.pl

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Podgórze: Kraków’s left rump hasn’t

always reveled in the healthiest of reputations. A friend of mine lived there for a while around about the start of the millennium and had a habit of calling it ‘the land of flying knives’. “It’s not so bad,” he’d add mischievously, “so long as you don’t go out after dark.” He was joking, I think, but the point was clear: this wasn’t the Old Town. Yet while that once served as a deterrent, today it’s the district’s principle draw. With Kraków’s historic core fighting a losing battle against the effects of mass tourism, her Old Town has become not an area to enjoy but endure. But as with all fine metropolises, there’s more to the place than solely her heart. Rapidly gentrifying, blue collar Podgórze has become the city’s little secret: rich in history and curiosities, it’s evolved into the ideal antidote to the brigades of Easy Jetters plundering the center.

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FOOD FOR THOUGHT In Kraków it’s often best to distrust any restaurant with anything Mexican on its menu – to Manzana’s eternal credit, they blow suspicions to smithereens with stonking burritos that would be welcome in Warsaw. Go green at Zielonym Do Góry, a contemporary dining space on the ground floor of Lwowska 1: here, the menu makes a song and dance about regional produce and their commitment to nature. And visit Bal, a factory-style space with light snacky food and an arty crowd carrying unwieldy portfolios. Finally, Nad & Greg feels like it was born with sweethearts in mind. Run by a French / Polish couple, there are those who cross town to sample the waffles and macarons from this teasingly tempting neighborhood patisserie.

THIRTY SECONDS TO MARS Bristling with pointy, slender features, the Church of St. Joseph looks like it’ll blast into space at any given moment.

Completed in 1909, it’s an act of pure Neo Gothic overindulgence: generously embellished with hideous, gurning gargoyles, it’s practically unassailable in terms of madcap decoration. Your challenge: hunt down as many saints as you can (images and reliefs of 67 can be spotted inside and out).

GETTING THERE Warsaw to Kraków is just about the simplest journey in PKP’s canon. Trains run regularly with the new school Pendolino taking just over 2 hrs 15 mins. Older trains are substantially cheaper (approx. zł. 80 first class), with some completing the trip in less than three hours. From Kraków Główny, taxis grind their way across to Podgórze for about zł. 20.

BED & BOARD In Podgórze you’ll find two places of note: the four-star Qubus is admirable – pristine and modern and crowned with a top-floor pool with views of the river. For a less homogeneous experience, then Lwowska 1 answers the call. Shaped like a cheese wedge, the rooms in this ultramodern ‘apart-hotel’ are defined by their copious size and sleek-looking style. Shop around for the best deal: the Insider snatched a suite for zł. 175.

ART OF THE MATTER Uncomfortable Fact No. 1: art and gentrification like to skip hand-in-hand. But with Podgórze still years away from full-on commercialization, it’s possible to enjoy the former without the suffocating presence of the latter. The streets are a good place to begin with a number of walls surrendered to the mercy of the paintbrush: particularly prominent is Ding Dong Dumb (Piwna 3A), a controversial work by the Italian artist Blu. Featuring a mass of minions staring up at what many construe to be a church bell, the work is signed with the message ‘Never Follow’. Onwards, and Cricoteka is a multi-functional cultural space featuring a theater and gallery. Primarily though, it’s the architecture that’s the standout: find a former power plant all but swallowed by a modern, glass-bellied structure that’s been built overhead.

A visit to Cricoteka can be condensed (specifically to the top floor cafe), but a trip to MOCAK can’t. Fun, witty, engaging and interactive, this modern art gallery is an accomplishment and a half. Temporary exhibitions such as Nonsensical Technologies amuse by fusing common old junk with scientific theory; designed by self-styled ‘technological hooligans’, the works are fantastical creations that leave the imagination running riot. Then again, so do the other exhibits: step right inside a white cube covered in the black letters of the alphabet, or find yourself groping around another empty space simply bathed in a pulsating, reddish glow. Such is its disorienting, psychotropic effect, you don’t know where the room ends, where you are or why you’re even there. “This,” explains the blurb at the exit, “is an attempt to show the chaos the reigns in the minds of nationalists.”

JEWISH PODGÓRZE For centuries, Kraków’s Jewish population existed in relative harmony in the Kazimierz district across the river.

This connection was ruptured in 1941 when the city’s Jews were forcibly shunted by the Nazis to the newly-formed warsawinsider.pl

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AT A GLANCE Bal fb.com/balnazablociu Cricoteka cricoteka.pl Drukarnia drukarniaclub.pl Krako Slow Wines krakoslowwines.pl Lwowska 1 lwowska1.pl Manzana manzanarestaurant.com Miejscówka miejscowka.eu

Ghetto in Podgórze. Liquidated in 1943, whilst its denizens found themselves deported to Bełżec and Auschwitz, the Ghetto itself survived largely in tact. That’s left the area with an array of sights, not least surviving stretches of Ghetto Wall (found at Limanowskiego 42 and Lwowska 25 to 29), as well as the Pharmacy Under The Eagle. Overseen by Tadeusz Pankiewicz – one of a handful of gentiles allowed to remain in the Ghetto – his pharmacy served as a covert lifeline to the outside world. Now, his former place of work runs as a small museum documenting everyday life in the Ghetto. Outside, Pl. Bohaterów Getta is dotted with dozens of out-sized, empty chairs designed to signify the sense of emptiness left behind by Kraków’s vanished Jewish community.

OSKAR SCHINDLER Immortalized in print by Thomas Keneally, and in film by Steven Spielberg, the German industrialist Oskar Schindler was seen as an angel of mercy during the Holocaust years.

Credited with saving the lives of 1,200 Jews, his former factory has since been re-purposed as one of Kraków’s major attractions. Tourism returns with a vengeance here, and such is the weight of numbers (tip: buy tickets online to jump the queue) it’s hard to fully appreciate the breadth of its scope. While the actual Schindler story is only awarded token lip service, the museum offers an in-depth examination of the city’s wartime occupation.

A significant number of Kraków’s Jews perished in the nearby Płaszów concentration camp, an area that now has more in common with a forgotten, windswept meadow.

While filming Schindler’s List, Spielberg was refused permission to film on this site due to its historical associations, however, he circumvented that problem by rebuilding a replica of the camp in the Liban Quarry. Found next to the

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MOCAK mocak.pl Nad & Greg cukiernia-nadgreg.pl Pharmacy Under The Eagle mhk.pl Qubus qubushotel.com Schindler’s Factory mhk.pl Zielonym Do Góry lwowska1.pl/restaurant

ancient Krakus Mound, leftover bits of film set remain to this day: among them, fences, furnaces (which are actually thought to be genuine relics from the war), and an avenue built using mock Jewish tombstones. To the delight of urban explorers, all this is accessible to the public: just take a deep breath and plunge down a hazardous muddy path leading down from the foot of the Krakus Mound.

ON TAP Miejscówka plays an almost ambassadorial role for Trzech Kumpli with its beer nozzles almost exclusively, but not entirely, given over to the service of this award-winning brewery. Ditching the industrial trimmings favored by its Warsaw counterparts, this tap bar succeeds in feeling cool and hip but pleasingly local – its dual function as a board shop keeps ‘dude factor’ high. Across the street, Drukarnia is the elder statesman where nightlife is concerned. They do jazz, but you might not hear any if you opt for the foggy, battered side-room: on our visit, there’s a loony dancing on the bar urging us to join him and spraying beer on the unfortunates down below. This, we learn soon after, is the barman. Less feral, Krakó Slow Wines specializes in natural wines and cider from Central Eastern Europe: find it down the road from the Schindler museum.

BRIDGING THE GAP Despite the pickings to be had in Podgórze, there are those who remain unable to resist the allure of the city’s right hand side. Cross from ‘Kraków B’ back into ‘Kraków A’ by traipsing across the Bernatek Footbridge. Opened in 2010, this gently curving walkway leads you straight into Kazimerz. Illuminated to showstopping effect come the evening, its become one of the defining features of modern day Krak – and yep, you’ll find it clad in love locks.

Sp Par ot tne lig r ht

In Nature’s Hands

An antidote to the choking gridlock of city life, to enter the Clochee SPA is to step into a fragrant oasis of peace and serenity. Using our own brand, ecologically-minded organic ingredients and vegetable extracts, Clochee’s range of products allow for the full replenishment of body and mind: let your skin enjoy the delicate richness of nature’s soft hand. In the care of our specialists guests gently lose themselves in a soothing environment that seeks to realign the soul...

Clochee SPA ul. Nowolipki 13, spa.clochee.com

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Sp Par ot tne lig r ht

Raising The Steaks

Beef and Pepper is a small, cozy restaurant in the heart of Warsaw. We’re proud to serve delicious cuisine centered around specially seasoned Polish beef steaks. Noted for its delicate tenderness, the quality of our meat is now known around the city. Staffed by young professionals, our well-stocked bar serves a wide range of classic cocktails and spirits and also features an extensive range of red and white wine. Consider yourself invited to enjoy our relaxed and cosmopolitan atmosphere.

Beef and Pepper ul. Nowogrodzka 47A, beefandpepper.pl

JUST OPENED! At Anatolia Restaurant & Lounge (Pl. Konstytucji 2,

anatolia-waw.pl) we will take you on a gastronomic journey around the Far East.

With our guests in mind we’ve recruited the best chefs to ensure only the highest quality: watch the cooking unfold before your eyes in our open kitchen. Comfortable sofas, delicious cocktails and the best sheesha pipes ensure you won’t leave us disappointed!

Cornering The Market

Madrilenos have the Mercado de San Migues and New Yorkers the Chelsea Market. As for Varsovians… they have Hala Koszyki. The first project of its kind in Poland, this historic marketplace – over a century old – has been returned to Warsaw’s gastronomic map to enjoy unprecedented popularity. Join us in Hala Koszyki for dozens of commercial, service and culinary outlets offering delicacies from around the world. We’re also delighted to heavily promote culture, art and entertainment via a busy program of exhibitions, concerts and assorted events.

Hala Koszyki ul. Koszykowa 63, koszyki.com

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WHOLE LOBSTER

from 29,90 zł /100 gram

The Deep End of Love

There are many ways to say I love her (or him!), but few compete with the sophisticated luxury of lobster and bubbles: standing the test of time, it’s a classic combination that whispers elegant seduction. Plucked fresh from their tank, at L’Arc the oceans greatest treasure is given center stage, with the overriding feeling being that no-one does it better. Priding themselves on presenting Warsaw’s best seafood, this French-inspired restaurant hits the very highest notes that Valentine’s has to offer...

L’Arc Varsovie ul. Puławska 16, larc.pl

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EAT!

FOOD WITH... SEOUL

Korean restaurants enjoyed a breakout year in 2017, though few of the newbies managed to quite hit the peaks scaled by KoreaTown Rest. Hidden just off Pulawska, it’s a casual space that still retains the feel of a neighborhood secret. Here, the ubiquitous KFC (Korean fried chicken) is all crunch and crackle and the bulgogi tender, juicy and the right side of sweet; accompanying them, an assortment of bitey dishes heaving with chilli flecked kimchi, daikon radish and pickled bits and bobs. All very good (very good indeed, actually), but nothing compared to the bossam, braised pork belly scooped up by hand inside glistening perilla leaves: it’s a dish that soothes, gratifies and leaves diners looking every bit as pleased as the pipe-smoking tiger that gazes from the wall.

PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

KoreaTown Rest ul. Olesińska 2, fb.com/KoreaTownRest

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Eat! Reviews THE PLACE

Swank and stylish. The door clatters shut to divulge a long, narrow space of tall palm fronds and marble finishes underneath soaring ceilings that seem to stretch on forever. Bursts of flamingo pink color lend a dapper sense of dazzle to this polished-looking venue.

THE CHEF

If chef / co-owner Jarek Walczyk looks familiar, then yes, he ruddy well should. Highly decorated, some of his more recent accolades have included scooping the title of Culinary Personality in 2016 and Chef of the Year in 2015 (both courtesy of Poland’s 100 Best Restaurants).

Now, for the first time, this well-regarded chef finds himself fronting his own restaurant, a place whose concept, menu and ambiance aims to ‘de-formalize’ fine dining.

THE MENU

An upscale work that, in spite of the Lobster’s name, awards equal importance to land and sea. Beautifully plated, the flawless presentation is reflective of a kitchen that values both clarity and creativity. The sea bass ceviche is an example of this, an exquisite exhibition of complex tastes set down in a slash of green on a plate that could pass for a contemporary work of sculpture. And then there’s the octopus, a sexy coil of sea monster given a glorious vibrancy thanks to a preceding beetroot bath.

Orange sauce, blobs of mango and a flush of greens complete the combination.

Żurawia’s latest opening leaves guests tickled pink...

Modestly named ‘Cream’, this soup comes ceremoniously poured table-side by a serious, white-gloved waiter. Featuring tomatoes, red curry, shrimp and coconut milk, it’s a gentle whirl of delicate, nuanced tastes – there’s even a light snap of spice to keep the attention.

WE LOVED...

Pass our apologies to Bambi’s nearest and, erm, dearest, but the roe deer is immaculate: served with herb moss, black salsify, morel and demi-glace, the meat is lean and tender and comes the right hint of pink.

AND DON’T MISS

The plan had been to share one between two.

But then we ordered another and another after that. Whoever is doing desserts deserves a big hand for these are stunning pieces of work that warrant recognition. Creme Anglaise disap-

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PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

IN THE PINK

WE’D RETURN FOR...

Pink Lobster ul. Żurawia 6/12, pinklobster.pl

pears into a thick, sweet swirl of chocolatey goo, while the ‘apple’ cracks open to disgorge a variety of contents you never expected: salty caramel, cool cream and a baked apple inside.

Even the basil sorbet is a brilliant arrangement of multi-layered tastes.

GOOD TO KNOW

Of course they do already do lobster, but they’re about to get a whole lot more serious with the forthcoming addition of a show-stealing tank. Keep your eyes on their Facebook for the upcoming reveal.

FINAL WORD

Recent times have seen the Grim Reaper treat Żurawia without mercy. Can the Pink Lobster dodge the swipe of his scythe? On this showing, he might as well pack up the cape and find new territories to stalk – Żurawia has a keeper.

Clockwise from above: roe deer with herb moss and black salsify; ‘cream’ soup with tomatoes, red curry and shrimp; sea bass ceviche; octopus with orange, olives and rosemary.

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PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

Eat! Review

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Fest Port Czerniakowski ul. Zaruskiego 8

THE BIG FE(A)ST

With its focus permanently switched to BBQ season, choose fire over finesse at fabulous Fest...

T

here are those who argue that Fest’s best months come in summer, and yes, the case they present is certainly strong: concealed down a curling road flanked by water and woodland, it’s a picture of unexpected bliss in the center of the city. Wedged into that narrow strip of land between the river and Port Czerniakowski, Fest feels unique for Warsaw – a place thoroughly isolated from the concrete badlands. With that in mind, then point taken, it’s a special feeling to find yourself drinking in the atmosphere whilst draped on their terrace.

But those thinking of this wooden cabin as a one season wonder would be overlooking its wider qualities. Of these, the cooking is at the forefront. Simple and straight-forward yet more-ishly addictive, the menu is an atavistic celebration of fire and brawn. With Mr. Frost rattling on the windows, it’s food to tickle your inner caveman and warm the bottom of his heart.

DON’T MISS

The choice is small – so small that those with big hands would be able to write the options on their palm. But my, what sausages! Find them served on a wooden board with a dab of basil dip and a thick apple ketchup.

BE WARNED...

The ribs, cooked in a wood-fired smoker that stands outdoors, have earned this venue a place in local legend. But pay heed: outside of the peak summer months ring ahead to make sure they’re on.

WE LOVE...

Watching the evanescent winter sun fade into blackness whilst listening to the roar and crackle of the fireplace up top – it’s a feeling that conjures images of being holed up in a mountain chalet. Perfect! warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings DESEO

ul. Angorska 27

WA R S Z AW S K I LU K I E R

Much like Odette, Deseo aim their guns at producing showstopping desserts that glint like jewels. Vivid in color, they’re a sensual pleasure fully in tune with the picky palettes of modern times.

Valentine’s is a biggy and promises serious outbreaks of nom nom nom.

E. WEDEL

ul. Szpitalna 8

The city’s first chocolate café appeared in 1851: located on Szpitalna 8, E. Wedel is still going strong. Imperial and cavernous in design, the ornate Viennese interiors are deep with the rich, luxurious waft of chocolate. Beyond the immediate olfactory adventure offered

by Wedel, their hot chocolate is raved about around town.

LA VANILLE

ul. Krucza 16/22

Remember when everyone in the world began wolfing down cupcakes? La Vanille was born of that time. Though the general appetite for these dinky treats has waned, the popularity of La Vanille hasn’t. Super cute in style, expect several Valentine’s themed cupcakes to be rolled out for parade.

LUKULLUS

Founded in 1946, Lukullus have evolved into a funky boutique cafe chain noted for quirky interiors and buzzy atmosphere. Oh, and desserts.

Renouncing short cuts and low-cost ingredients, this family enterprise has earned a name for top quality desserts that see traditional favorites updated for the millenial age.

HITTING THE SWEET SPOT

Forget the heart this Valentine’s Day: instead, aim Cupid’s arrow straight at the stomach...

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MOD

ul. Oleandrów 8

CAFE CRYSTAL

ul. Nowogrodzka 22

Despite the rather generic look (white brickwork: yawn), Cafe Crystal transpires to be anything but a bore.

Specializing in Korean desserts, the ace in the pack here is their choice of bingsu: a light but elaborate concoction of shaved ice and fruity toppings.

Warsaw has always loved donuts, but it took the arrival of MOD to elevate this humble doughy vice to new levels with a glam New York-inspired makeover. Inside hip, retro interiors find a steady line of cool kids queuing at the counter for Warsaw’s top donut. Again, anticipate a couple of surprises in time for Valentine’s.

ODETTE

ul. Górskiego 6/07

ALL PHOTOS COURTESY OF (EXCEPT LA VANILLE BY KEVIN DEMARIA)

various locations inc. ul. Mokotowska 48

EAT! Listings Almost holistic in its ambience, the obstacle-free interior utilizes aspects of space and light, causing attention to naturally fall on the long, sleek counter that occupies the flank. It’s here that sweet creations glimmer behind glass like precious little gems. A paen to craftsmanship and modern philosophy.

LU K U L LU S

PRALINERIA NEUHAUS ul. Żurawia 26

Never heard of Neuhaus? Well, it was them that invented the praline!

Founded in Belgium in 1857, regard them as your Valentine’s fail-safe: a chocolatier that can provide both options and solutions when it comes to last minute scares. But this isn’t just a lazy choice for those who’ve just remembered that their partner might expect a gift: the overall quality falls close to divine.

L A VA N I L L E

E. WEDEL

SŁODKI SŁONY

ul. Mokotowska 45

In a city obsessed with ‘now’ (and in some cases ‘tomorrow’), Słodki Słony is a charming throwback to days of old. The flowery interiors could have been designed with dates in mind, while the cakes and pastries are a confident reminder that sometimes the old-fashioned way of doing things is sometimes the best.

SUCRE

various locations inc. ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 7

You better believe the hype: dainty and delicious, Sucre’s macarons are in a league of their own. Utilizing Iranian pistachios, Valencian almonds and fresh fruit, Sucre’s gluten-free creations range from the expected to the absurd: Bloody Mary, curry, and caviar are a few of the flavors they’ve nailed in the past.

DESEO

WARSZAWSKI LUKIER ul. Hoża 5/7

Looking pretty in pink, there’s a fun and feminine vibe that goes beyond just a quirky design that features rose colored swings. The desserts are hardcore food porn, and include Lukier’s signature freak shakes: towering treats cascading with calories and color. For similarly maximalist desserts, check their little sis out on ul. Żurawia 18.

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EAT! Listings By in large, you can expect to pay between zł. 20-35 for starters, and zł.

35-70 for mains. Expect those prices to double in the case of the city’s fine dining venues. Those wishing to cut costs should seek out the weekday business lunch deals now offered by most restaurants. When tipping, 10-20% is considered polite though be aware of automatic service charges in some venues.

Home delivery by daily.pl

american 38 bakeries 38 balkan 38 british 39 burgers & street food 39 chinese 39 fine dining 40 french 41 georgian 42 greek & turkish 42 hawaiian 43 hungarian 43 indian 43 indonesian 44 international 44 italian 50 japanese & sushi 51 jewish 53 korean 53 latin & spanish 54 mexican 54 middle eastern 56 polish 57 scandinavian 63 seafood 63 specialty food shops 63 steak houses 63 thai 64 ukrainian 64 vegan 64 vietnamese 64

american Brooklyn Restaurant & Bar Gone are the fancy pants culinary creations once found in the basement,

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ousted in favor of a menu of pimped-up soul and street food, salads and steaks.

This means fresh tacos not to mention the best-selling ‘Mito’s Beef Ribs’. The ground floor burger bar is more prosaic, offering a standard line-up of burgers and wings. (C4) Al. Jana Pawła II 18 (Rondo

Charlotte While the fancy crowd isn’t to everyone’s liking, the atmosphere feels truly continental: even more so in warm weather when the terrace packs out. (D6) Al. Wyzwolenia 18, bistrocharlotte.com

ONZ), tel. 22 114 3434, brooklynbw.eu

Paul Specializing in pastries, baguettes and other baked goods, this French chain have rapidly entrenched themselves in the capital following their debut last year.

Various locations, boulangeries-paul.com

Hard Rock Café Instantly recognizable by the giant neon guitar outside, Hard Rock has a pierced staff of skater boys and rock girls and a menu that is, if nothing else, completely reliable. Peruse rock’n’roll swag that includes Joplin’s blouse, Prince’s guitar and Shakira’s pants. (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, hardrockcafe.pl Koko & Roy Spotlighting ‘New American Cuisine’, the thrust here is on comfort food, albeit several steps beyond what you’d rustle up at home: the Odds & Ends (deep fried pigs tails and chicken hearts tumbled into a big bowl and served with pickled red onions and a lash of sriracha aioli) are bold, unexpected and utterly delicious. The work of an American / Polish husband and wife, Koko & Roy feels fun, innovative and pleasingly casual – a bit like visiting friends who really know how to cook. Much like visiting friends, alcohol too also plays its part: in this case, generous cocktails made to NYC specifications.

Take it all in inside a brill interior that’s all Sputnik lights, intriguing artwork and mustard-toned finishes. (D5) ul. Wilcza 43

bakeries Aromat That many consider this their favorite bakery says it all. French flour and an expert baker ensure brilliant results, while the lemon éclairs deserve their own Facebook page. (C4) ul. Sienna 39, fb.com/piekarnia.aromat Café Vincent Queues build quickly as locals line up to buy baguettes, cinnamon rolls, lemon croissants and beautiful pains au chocolat. But people don’t just head in then out, a small wine list and brilliant people spying opportunities cause many to hang around. (D3) ul. Nowy Świat 64

Qki QKI is the work of two sisters (in-law!) with a passion for the sweeter things in life. Shunning shortcuts and artificial nasties, cookies, cakes and pastries comprise the bulk of the offer here. ul. Topiel 19 & ul.

Belgradzka 14, qki.waw.pl Rozbrat 20 Bakery & Wine Corner Best known for fathering Butchery & Wine, Daniel Pawełek makes his mark on Powiśle with the launch of Rozbrat 20, a high-end bakery that’s worthy of the rave reviews. Breakfast here is among the best you’ll find in Warsaw. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 20, rozbrat20.com.pl SAM Co-owner Małgorzata Kusina-Doran is a fine-bread connoisseur, honing her skills at a bread-making course chaired

by Raymond Blanc. While SAM have expanded to cover numerous locations, this has not been to the cost of the overall quality. many locations, sam.info.pl

balkan Ba Adriatico As a starter, then the grilled peppers stuffed with creamy, regional cheese are irresistible. But then so too the octopus salad. Mains are a victory of simplicity, with dishes like skewered minced beef served with a bitey sauce and a soft, pillowy Lepinja bread. Yet ignore Thursday seafood night at your peril. Croatian-run, this neighborhood spot has an unassuming air that belies the general quality. (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 50/52, ba-adriatico.pl Banja Luka Lots of clunky timber and imported

EAT! Listings ceramics set the scene at this eatery, a Balkan stalwart that’s known for its economical pricing structure and bulky portions. Grilled meats are prominent and the food largely reliable. (E8) ul. Szkolna 2/4, tel. 22 828 1060, banjaluka.pl

british Ę Rybę A couple of places have tried to emulate the taste of the British seaside, but this is the de facto codfather. Here’s a spot where the chips are golden, the fish fresh and the batter crisp and light. Now also serving British breakfast, albeit at a time when most normal people will have already eaten. (E4) Al. Jana Pawła II 18, erybe.pl Legends It’s a British pub first and foremost, but massive steps have been taken to ensure that the food angle isn’t overlooked.

The all-day breakfast is a great way to stoke up your drinking powers, while other dishes of note inc. pies, sausages and mash and, of course, fish and chips.

(C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640, legendsbar.pl

burgers & street food Barn Burger Retaining a loyal crowd ever since their 2012 entry on the burger circuit, Barn Burger offer a loud and lively atmosphere and much celebrated burgers with goofy names like Heart Attack and Muppet.

The list by the door notes the results of their American-style eating competitions / greed-fests. (D4) ul. Złota 9. tel. 512 157 567, barnburger.pl Beef’N’Roll If the wheels have fallen off the burger craze then no-one told Beef’N’Roll.

Originating as a food truck, their success has been such that a fixed venue was required. Everything about the food and drink suggests quality is the main consideration. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel.

531 707 070, beefnroll.pl

Burger Bar Warsaw has come full-circle: years after burgers briefly starred as the national food, it’s the original burger joint that still bosses the field. ul. Puławska 974/80 (enter from Olkuska) & ul. Krucza 41/43, burgerbar.waw.pl

certainly up there. (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1, warburger.pl

Kura Buffalo Wings Looking to revise and rehabilitate the reputation of fried chicken, this cult spot has cool staff, a busy buzz and a tasty selection of strips, wings and homemade sauces: look on it as KFC for the millenial generation. (B2) ul. Nowolipki 15, fb.com/ restauracjakura

Pańska 85 Ample in size, the interiors speak of money well spent. This is especially true because despite the luxury trimmings Pańska looks good without ever losing its dignity. With their kitchen staff headhunted from across China, the food sets a standard that has yet to be seen in any Chinese restaurant in Warsaw: there’s delicate salmon rolls wrapped in mango; dim sum that are pouches of pure goodness; and Sichuan-style pork that’s a blaze of sizzle and spice. The Beijing Duck, carved and served table-side, is the highlight. (B4) ul. Pańska 85, panska85. com

Meat Warsaw This project sees a cosmic 1960s rotunda revived as a compact eatery whose brief menu is butch and brawny and comfortably familiar: Philly cheese steak served inside fresh pitta bread; Polish white sausage in a thick corn sauce; and boczek that’s soft in parts and crackly in others – lathered in a thick gloss of plum glaze, it’s a dish that sets off fireworks.

(C4) Corner of ul. E. Plater / Świętokrzyska, fb.com/meatwarsaw

Okienko When the chips are down and you’re looking for emergency nourishment, then join the queue outside Okienko: serving Belgian-style frites in paper cones, this street-side hatch is a true window of life. The roster of sauces, written up in marker pen on the wall tiles, are often supberb. With the financial transaction sealed, enjoy your winnings on their small outdoor terrace. (D7) ul. Polna 22 Pogromcy Meatów Yearn no more for the elusive flavor of the backyard BBQ. Specializing in grilled meat, find exactly just that loaded into artisan buns alongside locally grown greens. The sense of homespun quality makes this the kind of comfort food that Warsaw has been missing for years. (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, tel. 505 703 508 Warburger While Warsaw has lost its appetite for burgers, you wouldn’t necessarily tell by popping in WarBurger. Set inside a diminutive cabin, join the scrum for jazzed-up burgers that use slow-food ingredients. If not the best, they’re most

chinese

Regina Bar Stepping past a pair of flowing red drapes at the entrance, guests are ushered in to discover an eclectic world that marries the tastes of New York’s Little Italy to Chinatown next door. This is done excellently with the menu presenting the very essence of ethnic comfort food: General Tso’s chicken, Cantonese roast duck and light, leopard-spotted pizzas.

Brought to you by the makers of MOD, it’s therefore natural that the original style extends to kooky interiors tinged with a trace of retro: a tall mirrored wall and the kind of sparkling chandelier last seen in Boogie Nights. (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, fb.com/ Reginabar Rico’s Concept Never let a name fool you. While Rico’s might sound more like a Mexican food truck, the reality presents a former bathhouse luxuriously decorated with hand-painted Majolica, swanky fittings and even a shimmery pool. The menu has won plaudits around town for its stunning authenticity. Full review next issue. ul.

Krakowskie Przedmieście16/18 To Tu Dumpling Bar A shabby looking shack cabin, To Tu offer what are seriously considered some of the best – if not the best – dim sum in warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings town. Magic-ked up by a Manchurian exile, the experience isn’t unlike being in a sweaty back street haunt in Asia. And that’s a good thing! ul. Niekłańska 33, chinskapierogarnia.pl

fine dining

SHEESHA , AU T H E N T I C C U I S I N E , M E E T I N G P L AC E , D R I N KS

Amber Room at the Sobański Palace Set in the pre-war Pałac Sobańskich, this wedding white manor house is the epitome of luxury: plush, discreet, elegant and serene, it unwraps like the most beautiful of presents – a network of corridors and stairwells take guests through a series of rooms and side-chambers.

Impossibly almost, the food measures up to the surrounds. For mains, the sea trout is spectacular, arriving alongside creamy root parsley and fried cubed cucumbers.

(E6) Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, amberroom.pl Atelier Amaro A point of pilgrimage to which diners flock to worship at the table of Wojciech Amaro. This is not an exaggeration.

Awarded what was then Poland’s first Michelin star in 2013, Atelier has grown to become more than a mere restaurant, but the spiritual home of ‘new Polish cuisine’ – a place of precision and perfection, this much-storied venue has lost none of its extraordinary ability to surprise and woo. Changing weekly, the menu promotes Polish ingredients – often weird and unexpected – enhanced by futuristic techniques. An extraordinary experience, it’s a place to put at the top of your foodie bucket list: for the hours you’re here the world stops and you feel like Bond. (E6) ul. Agrykola 1, tel. 22 628 5747, atelieramaro.pl

dom-faraona.com, O r d y n a c k a 13

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Belvedere Łazienki Królewskie Set in an imperial age glass orangery, it’s festooned with intricate latticework and botanical exotica. The updated interiors are the work of acclaimed set designer Boris Kudlicka, and lend a fresh, contemporary tone that goes hand in hand with the menu. But behind the gels and emulsions and pretty little swirls,

this is cooking of substantial depth; it’s cooking that takes you to the very soul of Polish nature. ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. 22 558 6701, belvedere.com.pl Chłodna 15 Unrecognizable from its previous incarnation, the restaurant wing of what was, until recently, La Maison, has undergone a considerable refurbishment to lend it more gravitas. The big change, however, is the food: the daily changing menu has been purposefully kept limited, allowing chef Arek Wilamowski’s crew to keep standards high. On our visit, that meant a sophisticated French duck pate in croute cake with raspberry jam and long pepper; and cod fillet a la Grenobloise. It’s already being talked about as a Michelin candidate. (B3) ul. Chłodna 15 L’enfant Terrible Looking like he’s just swaggered in from a rock concert, the unconventional style of Michał Bryś goes beyond surface detail alone. Promising maximum excitement, his imaginative menu isn’t short on daring twists and rollercoaster highs. Maverick in every sense of the word, this is a chef that pushes boundaries in a way few others would dare. Though the menu changes often, keep an eye on recurring classics such as ‘tomatoes, tomatoes, tomatoes’, a kickass course that presents the humble tomato in about ten different forms!

More informal than the other top bracket restaurants, the brainwashed loyalty of Enfant’s fans says much for it. (D8) ul.

Sandomierska 13 (enter from Rejtana), tel.

22 119 5705, eterrible.pl N31 Been there, done it all. That’s Robert Sowa, a national treasure widely hailed for modernizing Poland’s gastronomic sector back in the country’s culinary dark days. A common sight on TV, the chef’s public profile has meant there’s no shortage of bums on seats in his flagship restaurant, but this is more than a chef trading on his past. A chic city center bubble beloved by business types, the food is first class with Sowa’s international travels reflected by surprises such as flawless tuna partnered with kabayaki sauce, yuzu, wasabi dressing and turnip salad. The flavor combinations are exceptional. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 31, n31restaurant.pl

EAT! Listings

Nolita The deluxe dining scene is filling out in Warsaw, and there’s now a few restaurants that can present an equitable claim for the No. 1 spot.

However, it’s Nolita that perch at the top, with a menu that sees largely classical recipes through a sharp, modern prism – chef Jacek Grochowina has created a place that’s coherent and understandable without sacrificing values of innovation.

Looking chic and high end, the tastes and sensations in this restaurant are thrilling: diners are left speechless by the tuna tartar, while the aged beef fillet is an Insider mainstay. (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 292 0424, nolita.pl Platter by Karol Okrasa It’s a fact that Okrasa’s appearances in the kitchen are fleeting and rare, but that’s done nothing to hurt this restaurant’s prestige. Head chef Łukasz Pielak has proved to be a lethal assassin, executing the ideas of his mentor with accuracy and passion. The cooking is detailed, balanced and elegant, with the highlight of our visit being deer in plum sauce. A thing of imperial, velvety richness it’s a dish that turns up the volume on a memorable experience. (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (Hotel InterContinental Warsaw), warsaw.intercontinental.com

Salto Fine dining gets a South American makeover thanks to Martin Gimenez Castro, a native Argentinean who has emerged as one of the most influential chefs in latter day Poland. While some critics grumble that the top end of Warsaw’s gastronomic scene has flatlined a little, Salto continues to push the envelope in terms of breaking boundaries and probing new ground. Light, fresh and full of zing, the ceviche is a must, as is a delve around the Sunday steak menu.

Desserts, meanwhile, are among the most inventive in town. (D5) ul. Wilcza 73 (enter from Emilii Plater), tel. 22 584 8771, saltorestauracja.pl Senses Andrea Camastra’s Michelin-starred tasting menu is a succession of impossible highs and makes a big deal of scientific methods and culinary advances. Full of theater and unpredictable flourishes (billowing mists, imaginative presentation, edible cigars...), this restaurant is never short on dare and dazzle. (C2) ul.

Bielańska 12, tel. 22 331 9697, sensesrestaurant.pl Signature You feel a millionaire just being here: we’ve heard the interiors described as a ‘Monegasque state of mind’, and that’s not a bad way to surmise a décor that’s all about friezes and reliefs dated from

the time this was the Soviet Embassy, lavish 1950s Oswald chairs, lighting by Serge Mouille and original Marilyn photos shot by the acclaimed Milton Greene.

Food-wise the restaurant makes a massive splash with a menu that’s clever, creative and pretty. Count on Signature’s seasonally changing desserts providing a happy ending. (D5) ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 55 38755, signaturerestaurant.pl

french Bistro la Cocotte With access through a shadowy courtyard, the sensation you’re stepping inside a little secret is a pleasure in itself.

Presenting itself in a riot of red and white gingham Cocotte feels warm and intimate, a factor aided by a small open kitchen and the atmosphere of home. The menu, chalked up on the blackboard, is a flexible affair that makes use of the ingredients at hand, and is divided into a smattering of light bites, desserts and plat du jour. (D6) ul. Mokotowska 12, tel. 664 906 000 L’Arc Looking elegant with its black/white floors and subtle decorations bills at L’Arc can become big number affairs – especially if you hanker for seafood. Pick from numerous types of oysters, or delve into the fish tank for the lobster of your

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EAT! Listings choosing. The catchment area extends beyond the borders of Mokotów, not just because of their ‘fresh from France’ seafood, but because of classic dishes such as Mulard duck and Burgundy snails. (E8) ul. Puławska 16, larc.pl La Cocotte Saska Already well regarded on account of a highly successful venture just off Pl. Zbawiciela, La Cocotte have spread their wings to set up shop in scenic Saska. A typical French-style bistro / wine bar, the offer includes a brief but largely brilliant menu whose main strength is its mussels. The wine list is substantial and French-focused and enjoyed by a smart, upmarket audience.

(H4) ul. Walecznych 68A

tarragon lemonade. (D4) ul. Zgoda 3 Rusiko Explaining Georgian cuisine isn’t all that hard. To the uninitiated, it’s representative of the heart, spirit and passion of its people, a cuisine the values the concept of the feast: wine, laughter and song find themselves elevated to roles of primary importance. A food of life, spice and whole-hearted tastes, consider Rusiko as the best ambassador there is for this surprisingly diverse kitchen. Live music lends the weekends a good-humored twist.

Note: closed Monday. (E5) Al. Ujazdowskie 22, tel. 22 629 0628, rusiko.pl

greek & turkish

georgian Chinkali Signposted by a Georgian-language shingle, there’s a real sense of pleasure about this place. More modern than your typical folksy ethnic outpost, Chinkali’s draw is indeed its chinkali: dough purses packed with meaty broth. There’s a genuine homemade quality to these slurpy bundles of joy, meaning that while they’re authentic, consistency can vary. And don’t miss out on the red bean chachapuri washed down with a mouthwash-colored

Anatolia Looking dark and moody, Anatolia adds a veneer of sophistication to the traditional Turkish dining experience; presentation, you can tell, is important, but so too is the general sense of replicating the standards of home. Meat finds itself treated with reverence, and that holds especially true when it comes to steak and lamb. Full review coming soon. Pl. Konstytucji 2, anatolia-waw.pl

Unique selection of Georgian wines and spirits

tue.-wed. from 1500 to 2300 thu.-fri. from 1500 to 2400 sat. from 1200 to 2400 sun. from 1200 to 2300 address: al. Ujazdowskie 22 00-478 Warszawa email: winebar@rusiko.pl + 48 22 628 45 76

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Maho Maho feels like it’s located at the end of the earth – but its distance deters no-one, least of all its army of hardcore followers. Why are they there? The answer is a Turkish grill that takes you right to the heart of this glorious cuisine.

Highly recommended is the Iskender kebab: layers of juicy doner meat served with scoops of fresh tomato sauce and fresh, thin pide bread straight from the wood-fired oven. While you’re there, you may as well stock up on imported goodies from their adjoining store. Al. Krakowska 240/242, maho.com.pl Paros Out of all of Warsaw’s Greek contributions Paros dazzles most with a glitzy look that’s a complete U-turn from the typical taverna look. Owned by the same team behind El Greco, the menu is identical, though a recent visit revealed a kitchen resting on its laurels – not one plate on our table was finished. (D4) ul. Jasna 14/16, tel. 22 828 1067, paros-restauracja.pl Santorini Santorini looks scuffed and tired but there’s a bonhomie present that instantly engages. The kitchen attaches no value to things like presentation, preferring instead to simply treat diners to piles of grilled and skewered food that consistently tastes right. ul. Egipska 7, tel. 22 672 0525, kregliccy.pl/santorini/ Sofra A highly respected Turkish eatery with a wondrous beef mussaka and a wholly admirable lineup of other ethnic dishes: the lamb shashlik has never failed us.

Pleasingly informal, this neighborhood redoubt feels cheerfully unforced, and it becomes an easy place to hang around in.

(C6) ul. Wilcza 71, tel. 731 847 731 Taverna Patris This Greek restaurant is not about sophistication and finesse, it’s about truth and taste. Likewise, the interiors have no airs and graces: there’s a rough and ready style that’s apt for noisy celebrations and familial occasions. Tawerna Patris is not about shallow details or surface

EAT! Listings appearances. Instead, it’s a place of depth, a place of integrity, a place of joy. (G4) ul.

Wał Miedzeszyński 407, tel 22 357 11 11, tawernapatris.pl

hawaiian Poke Declared last year’s ‘must-have snack’ by the Guardian, poke’s popularity has fanned across the map to become one of the most exciting food fads of recent times. Polynesian by birth, this raw fish salad comes served on a bed of rice and then topped with the sauce of your choice: lemon, teriyaki, and ginger among others.

While Warsaw has experienced the pleasures of poke before, here’s the first restaurant that’s dedicated to it: find it at the bottom of one of the Hogwarts-style turrets that support Most Poniatowskiego.

(F4) ul. Kruczkowskiego 15B, fb.com/ WarsawPoke

hungarian U Madziara U Madziara looks like it took two days to decorate. No-one goes here to marvel at the interiors though, they go in the knowledge that they’ll find great food at prices all bank cards can support. Chef Gabor’s signature goulash is one of life’s simple pleasures, though the service can come across as distracted and inattentive.

(B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 620 1423, umadziara.pl

indian Bollywood Lounge Known for their raucous dusk-till-dawn parties, there is another less hedonistic roll filled by Bollywood: that of a restaurant. The menu is an uncomplicated, classic affair that’s an ideal primer for the party ahead. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, tel. 22 827 0283, bollywoodlounge.pl

restaurants reliant on one ‘master pot’ for their curry, this classy venue feels unique in delivering a plethora of rich, intense tastes. The madras is a special standout, with big, punchy flavors that leave you tingling pleasantly long after you leave.

(B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 606 688 777, bombajmasala.pl

Curry House Ask for something extra hot in Curry House and by Vishnu that’s what you’ll get. Yet at Curry House there is more to sing about than just Poland’s highest voltage vindaloo. The curries are rich and sumptuous and consistently cited as among the best in the city. If in doubt, the chicken tikka masala is a fail-safe request. ul. Żeromskiego 81 & ul. Hoża 54 &ul. Towarowa 35, curry-house.pl Curry Leaf The post-industrial style is diluted by the number of Indian trinkets hanging off the vents and pipes. Owned by the same crew behind the lauded Curry House, you’d be completely correct to assume consistency and excellence on every level. ul. Conrada 5, curryleaf.pl

‘Simplicity, elegance and atmosphere’

Cafe • Wine Bar • Restaurant • Whisky Bar • Wine Cellar ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 515 037 001 www.hoza.warszawa.pl www.facebook.com/hoza25 Open 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-21:00

House of Curry Heat seekers can ‘enjoy’ a genuine deathby-fire experience at House of Curry, though far milder curries are available for more sensitive palettes – either way, the experience is fantastic, and good news for those stuck out in the depths of Józefów. ul. Patriotów 11 A, house-of-curry.pl India Express Wola Some notable exceptions / calamities aside, the standard of Indian food in Warsaw is surprisingly high – the problem lies in its ‘sameness’: same recipes, same menus and not enough being done to distinguish one restaurant from the next.

So it’s on this point that the latest branch of India Express really excel – open from 8 on weekdays, the draw here is a breakfast menu that gives a new spin to Indian food.

B4) ul. Sienna 87, indiaexpress.pl

Bombaj Masala Not just the best looking of Warsaw’s Indian restaurants, Bombaj Masala also has the best cooking. With so many

The Indian Hut Here’s a timely reminder that not all is well in Warsaw’s Indian sector. Forget the warsawinsider.pl

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Finest Authentic Indian Cuisine in Locations Around Warsaw

WWW.CURRY-HOUSE.PL

HOŻA 54

536 443 771

ŻEROMSKIEGO 81 508 870 774

WWW.HOUSE-OF-CURRY.PL

PATRIOTÓW 11A, FALENICA 512 533 415

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Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2018

EAT! Listings cheap, empty interior, the real problem here is the food. Frankly, you find yourself hoping that The Indian Hut becomes The Indian Shut. (C6) ul. Piękna 68A Mandala Mandala is characterized by its blitzing big spices and a vindaloo capable of giving the sweat glands a work out.

For something calmer, the creamy mutton methi malai is a masterpiece.

Online delivery service available through indiaexpress.pl. ul. Emilii Plater 9/11 / ul. Etiudy Rewolucyjnej 9 / ul. Sienna 87, mandalaklub.com Mr. India Split on two levels the design is contemporary if a little characterless: leather banquettes that leave a sweaty bum print and wood paneling. No problem though, if it looks bland then the food isn’t. That means an incredible butter chicken that’s deep and immensely satisfying.

Then there’s the vindaloo, an experience that leaves some close to spontaneous combustion. Undoubtedly one of the best regarded Indian restaurants in this town.

Al. KEN 47, tel. 22 213 0689, mrindia.pl Namaste India Responsible for first bringing quality, budget Indian food to Warsaw, Namaste have grown from humble beginnings (three tables and cooking done in a cupboard-sized space behind a curtain) to evolve into a bona fide two-floored restaurant. But expansion has come at the cost of quality – our last trip (March 2017) promises to be the last for some time. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 15, tel. 22 357 0939, namasteindia.pl Om Indian restaurants are popping up like toast, which isn’t a problem for most ex-pats. Catering to the more budget end of the market, Om’s Nepalese chefs know their way around the kitchen.

The chicken tikka masala is satisfying if nothing memorable, but the madras is something else: filled with sharp, punchy tastes that leave a lasting impression. While you get the idea it’ll never challenge the more established Indian restaurants in Warsaw, it’s the kind of place you’d be very happy to live next door to. (B4) ul. Sienna 86, omrestauracja.pl

Rani Mere steps from Metro Natolin, this restaurant’s catchment area goes beyond just Ursynów. Owner Samir is a self-confessed foodie, and his vision includes a contemporary Indian menu that features pan-seared cod with turmeric, tomato salsa and mint chutney – wonderful. Rani will also please the traditionalists, with everything from creamy kormas to vindaloo’s that leave your ears blowing smoke rings. Al. KEN 48/10, tel. 729 247 400, rani.com.pl Tandoor After nearly 20 years at the helm, owner Charanjit Walia has sold up and moved on, leaving a spiritual hole in his life-defining work. His parting shot has been a re-haul which has seen the interior modernized and brightened. Has the food suffered? Not a jot. The chicken tikka butter masala is as formidable as ever. It’s no longer the self-styled, ‘the best Indian restaurant in Poland’, but it’s deservedly retained a loyal core of customers. (D7) ul. Marszałkowska 21/25, tel. 22825 2375, tandoor.com.pl

indonesian Warung Jakarta The menu has a street foodie edge and is divided into steps wherein diners first pick out their choice of protein, then their rice, before concluding with any vegetables add-ons (e.g. pak choy, green beans or water spinach). While most Warsaw restaurants have a special lunch scheme going on, Warung’s is one that actually warrants a further look: find truly great off-menu dishes that are highly accessible to all levels of income.

(D6) ul. Piękna 28/34

international Aioli This runaway hit has taken Warsaw by storm. It’s a jaunty space with hams hanging from hooks and long communal tables that thrive with life. Aioli’s breakfasts, sandwiches, pastas and pizzas are a lesson in clean, simple pleasure: nothing out of the world, just consistently

EAT! Listings good. This and the liberal prices mean there’s no shortage of people passing in and out the doors. (D3) ul. Świętokrzyska 18, tel. 22 290 102, aioli-cantine.com Ale Wino Dip through an archway to discover Ale Wino, a beautiful wine bar whose menu has been well tailored to the season. Tweaked for the season is the pork belly, a Złotnicka pig adorned with apple sugar snap peas and celery mousse – gorgeous. As for the wine, put your faith in the sommelier, Oliver.

(F5) ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 628 3830, alewino.pl Bazar Kocha Designed to evoke the spirit of a farmers’ market, the woodsy interior is filled with stall-style units neatly stacked with jars and pots. Yet these are not decorative decoys, but part of a thoughtful grocery offer aimed at showcasing Kocha’s own-made produce. Above all

though, this is a restaurant whose menu is strongly influenced by concepts of ‘terroir’. The giant leg of lamb falls off the bone and is a dish to recommend and remember for several months to come.

(D6) ul. Mokotowska 33, bazarkocha.pl The Bell The sense of casual chic extends to an intelligent menu that’s been designed by the gifted Jan Piecuch. On the Insider’s visit (summer 2017) highlights were numerous and frequent and included a sorrel soup with chickpeas and pomegranate; an exquisite halibut and miso; and aged entrecote served with the kind of chips you’ve waited all your life for. (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 21, thebell.pl Bez Tytułu A beautifully decorated restaurant on trendy Poznanska. The menu has French and Polish accents and reflects the chef’s creative streak well. (D5) ul. Poznańska 16, beztytulu.com

Bibenda The menu declares Bibenda to be ‘a celebration of food, drink and togetherness’, and that’s precisely what it is.

Augmenting the warm, busy interiors are a thoughtful selection of craft beers and a concise menu that varies from month-tomonth. The apparent simplicity of the food is illusory and belies the kitchen’s knack for spotting interesting combinations such as goose with pumpkin puree, cranberry / red wine jam and chili caramelized beetroot. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 10, tel. 502 770 303, bibenda.pl Brasserie Warszawska Looking for classic cuisine with no daft flights of fancy? Here you have it. At a time when everyone wants to be Ferran Adrià, Brasserie has both a menu and interior that you can understand: panfried foie gras; elegant beef Rossini; and sinful apple tarte tatin, all served inside posh interiors of zinc-plated mirrors and chessboard floors. Their Michelin Bib

The recently opened restaurant and bar Mokotowska 69 is a perfect place for those who enjoy refined food and excellent wine. The restaurant offers classic Polish dishes with a modern twist, delicious steaks and a wide range of wine from all over the world. Mokotowska 69 was designed for those who enjoy Polish cuisine and those who would like to try classic Polish dishes with a modern twist, such as Mazurian crayfish in rowan brandy cream sauce, roasted catfish with pearl barley and beets or roasted duck with pears and blackcurrant. The restaurant also specialises in steaks made from American Black Angus (certified prime grade by the USDA), Scottish Aberdeen Angus and the highest quality Japanese Tajima-gyu cattle, “Kobe-style”: class 5, marbling 9+.

ul. Mokotowska 69, tel. (+48 22) 628 73 84 / (+48 22) 627 20 33, www.mokotowska69.pl

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EAT! Listings Gourmand is a source of pride, but it’s the number of repeat clients that are the ultimate paean to the skills of the chef.

(E5) ul. Górnośląska 24, tel. 22 628 9423, brasseriewarszawska.pl Bubbles Occupying a small, square room, it’s intimate and relaxed: a place busy with blackboards and bottles, crates and clutter. It radiates warmth and honesty.

The food is exquisite, and includes big, meaty snails farmed in Mazury, and their signature dish: Swiss-style raclette.

Presented on a wooden chopping board, this cheese dish is classic melty goodness, and served alongside a pile of potatoes, onions marinated with caramel and candied pumpkin. Considering the place doubles as a champagne bar the prices are remarkably moderate. (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 512 540 913, bubbles. com.pl Casablanca Biały Kamień From the same team behind Na Lato comes Casablanca, a versatile venue that muddies the lines between café,

restaurant, wine bar and hangout. Equally comfortable in each of these roles, it’s a place that feels fresh and cosmopolitan, not to mention completely in tune with the swank, glass surrounds. More to the point, it’s given wings to a part of Mokotów that before felt quite sterile. ul. Żaryna 2B, casablancawaw.com.pl Concept 13 You’d expect a rooftop meal at Poland’s ultimate luxury department store to cost the earth, but that’s not the case.

The zł. 50 lunch deal allows Joe Public to enjoy the considerable skills of Dariusz Barański. That he manages to create different pieces of art each and every afternoon is a testament to his talent – fellow chefs and foodies privately talk of him as a Michelin star in the making. (D4) ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7373, likusrestauracje.pl Czarna Woda From the blackened, smoking ashes of Kotakota rises a new venture from cult local chef Adam Leszczyński. Seen as one of the great talents of his generation, Leszczyński has reopened his previous premises to serve a menu heavy on the use of activated charcoal. Primed for Instagram addicts, it’s a menu that’s become a huge talking point between millennial foodies: the kimchi burger, served in a black bun, is a thing of inspiration.

Paired with black-colored drinks, join the buzz inside an interior that looks scuffed and distressed. (E3) ul. Bartoszewicza 3, fb.com/czarnawodabar

A PLACE IN WHICH WINE PLAYS THE FIRST CHORD IN HARMONY WITH WHAT APPEARS ON THE PLATE…

WE WELCOME YOU

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Dekant Wine Bar Not just a contender for Warsaw’s best new wine bar, but also Warsaw’s best new restaurant! The tuna tartar comes with the added ka-boom of a nose clearing wasabi, while the filet mignon (a snip at zł.

79) is simply astonishing. The surprise are the ash-cooked potatoes, beautiful things with a char that wows. The desserts are few in number but equally outstanding: we fell in love with a passion fruit semifreddo with strawberries marinated in Grand Marnier. (F5) ul. Zajęcza 15, dekant. com.pl Der Elefant This leviathan restaurant unravels in a maze of wrought iron and monochrome tiles – beautiful to look at (it was created

EAT! Listings

by Oscar winning set designer Allan Starski), it’s caused a stir for more than just this alone. Where once the menu looked like it was devised by throwing darts at a cookbook, the focus has now been narrowed. While some of the dishes are strictly middling, the filet mignon (zł.

69) is one of the best meat deals in town in terms of quality / price / consistency. (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, tel. 22 890 0010, derelefant.com Dom Here’s the very epitome of casual dining: set on the ground floor of a suburban house, the warm corners and garden views give Dom a real sense of homey charm. In line with all that is a menu that celebrates simple, honest cooking.

Everyone who visits ends up loving the place. ul. Mierosławskiego 12, tel. 509 165 712 Drukarnia Wrapped inside an ugly 1950s facade, this former printing house unravels to expose a sensational interior high on retro pieces: jagged-shaped stone floor tiles, a red neon and stern Socialist era statuettes lend a heavy PRL accent, though the big statement at Drukarnia is supplied courtesy of the architecture itself. Tall windows, high ceilings and a peculiar spiral staircase that disappears into nowhere collude to lend Drukarnia a sense of light, space and depth. The food: limited choice of European standards cooked with competence. If you’re in the area, worth a look ul. Mińska 65, drukarnianapradze.pl Dyletanci Filled with crisp, modern citizens that radiate confidence, Dyletanci introduces itself as a bistro set with green banquettes and Tom Dixon lamps. The wine selection is among the best in the nation, while the cooking has been left to Rafał Hreczaniuk, a workaholic chef with outrageous talent. His zander fillet thrills with every bite. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44A, dyletanci.pl Genesis What the hell is it? Seen as an amorphous blob composed of triangular white plates and large glass panels, Genesis restaurant is an instant head turner: the feeling is of approaching a futuristic

space station. As for the menu, that’s perhaps not as revolutionary as the design demands, offering instead a gamut of play-it-safe, international choices. (A4) Pl. Europejski 5, fb.com/genesiswarsaw

Grand Kredens This mighty veteran continues to draw a steady custom on account of a widereaching menu that aims to keep everyone happy – and it usually does. The design is surreal to say the least, and is laid out in such a way as to always guarantee a lively atmosphere. (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 111, tel.

22 629 8008, kredens.com.pl Hala Gwardii Housed in a Tsarist era brick hall, Warsaw’s latest food market / hangout has caused a storm since opening in October. A great tenant mix has seen 25 vendors signed-up, with highlights include raclette from the cool couple at Melt, vegan goodness at Tel Aviv, burgers from the legendary WarBurger and heaps of meat from Brasil On The Plate. Keeping it social are craft beer points, a bio wine stall, and a late night bar that overlooks it all. Open Friday morning through to Sunday night, a visit is essential. (C3) Pl. Mirowska 2, fb.com/halagwardii Hala Koszyki Integrating old with new, this huge project brings together some 18 food outlets inside a busy interior that’s all iron girders and industrial lighting. While there’s a feeling that there should have been a bigger focus on artisan, independent traders, that’s done nothing to dent Koszyki’s astonishing popularity. Units of note include the Gringo Salsownia, Port Royal Fish & Oyster Bar, and the Sobramesa Tapas Bar. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63, koszyki.com InFormal Kitchen There’s plenty of fireworks over the course of a vibrant menu that sources its produce from regional eco farms: meat from within a 26-kilometer radius of Warsaw, dairy produce from Mazury and fish from Pomerania. The rump of lamb is a class act, and bettered only by the

Great food

Seasoned polish steaks

Wonderful service

Beef n’ Pepper ul. Nowogrodzka 47a tel. +48 785 025 025 mon-sat: 12.00 - 24.00 sun: 12.00 - 23.00

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EAT! Listings pear and thyme tart for dessert. (D3) Pl. Małachowskiego 2 (enter from Traugutta), tel. 531 918 534, informalkitchen.pl Kieliszki Na Hożej The only Polish graduate of the Alain Ducasse academy in Paris, Dawid Balana has combined everything he’s learned along the way to fashion a menu that’s high on local produce but cooked with a classic French twist. The tastes are precise and well-balanced, but also varied enough to give a seemingly simple dishes several interesting sub-plots. From the outside, it looks like something straight from the 6th arrondissement. Through the door, and diners are met head-on by a seductive space that’s dark, intimate and full of gleaming glass: beautiful. (D5) ul.

Hoża 41, kieliszkinahozej.pl Kuchnia Otwarta Kuchnia Otwarta have created a swell of excitement that’s rippled way beyond Wilanów. Why? Plotted out by Michał Molenda, the menu is a sincere work based around regional, seasonal produce: nothing contrived, nothing forced, it’s a card that roots out the very best that Poland has to offer. ul. Klimczaka 1 (Royal Wilanów), kuchniaotwarta.pl La Brasserie Modern The interior of Didier Gomez whispers intimacy, yet it also embraces notions of space and light. The casual elegance that emanates from the design is accented by warm colors, low banquettes and glinting mirrors. The menu fits seamlessly with the surrounds: a fresh, modern look at French cuisine, but one that values clarity and simplicity. (D3) ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8332, sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com

Loft Color, that’s what Loft has. It’s everywhere – from the design, which is all bubble shaped lights and splashy, bright cushions, to the drinks: extravagant cocktails that possibly glow in the dark. The menu is full of playful experimentation, something reflected by a seasonal menu that has, in the past, presented such choices as chicken with strawberries. (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 668 016 964, restauracjaloft.pl

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MOD Chef Trisno’s menu sets his French culinary training against his Singaporean upbringing. The outcome is a card (actually, a printed sheet of paper) that makes for dangerously enjoyable reading: duck hearts with beetroot / soy emulsion and braised red cabbage; duck confit with pok choy, soy / red wine sauce and spicy cranberry chutney. Moderate prices and funky décor (a retro mirrored wall, upside down plants hanging from the ceiling) give it an ad hoc edge and plenty of character. Note: by day its Warsaw’s top donut store, so visit at night for their proper menu. (D6) ul. Oleandrów 8, fb.com/ MODOleandrow8 Mokotowska 69 Set inside a rotunda at the tail end of the street, it’s a place that exudes elegance and class. Most of all, however, it’s a restaurant to be enjoyed. Brought to you by the same team credited for Merliniego 5, Mokotowska’s appreciation of steak has been lifted from their elder sister. Yet the virtues of this restaurant extend beyond steak alone: the Insider enjoyed a volley of greats – creamy breaded calf brains, sophisticated smoked eel, and Mazurian crayfish served in a deep, joyous sauce of rowan berry and brandy. (E5) ul.

Mokotowska 69, mokotowska69.com Momu.Gastrobar Dominated by meat that’s cooked using the only smoker of its kind in Poland, the menu is comforting and strangely familiar: these are falvors reminiscent of campfire nights – brawny, smoky tastes with towering Reuben sandwiches, juicy steaks, bone marrow and wooden slabs brimming with meats from MOMU’s smokehouse. Impromptu art, tweeting birds and a neo-industrial design add oomph to the busy ambiance. (C2) ul.

Wierzbowa 11, tel. 506 100 001, momu.pl Orzo Functioning until recently as Aioli by Mini, the subsequent re-brand has seen the industrial interiors enhanced by a mother lode of plant life and greenery.

Other changes include the addition of orzo-based dishes as well as a new motto that asserts their connection to ‘people, music, nature’. A cynical attempt to attach themselves to Warsaw’s fad for healthy living, or something more special? We’ll

check back soon to check just which it is.

(D6) Pl. Konstytucji 5 Plato Conceived as a ‘smart casual’ restaurant, it’s a reasonably compact space with a modern style and incandescent bulbs hanging from a complex cat’s cradle of interweaving wires: classy but nothing too flashy or flamboyant. Then there’s the menu, a strange work that sees Spanish influences brushing shoulders next to Polish and Asian. It sounds silly and preposterous but my God it works. December saw us wowed by beef tartar cut from Polish Hereford, an aromatic oriental broth, and a refined halibut encircled with sage pesto, redcurrants and fresh almonds. Stunning. ul. Klimczaka 1 (Royal Wilanow), restauracjaplato.pl Prosta Historia Informal-looking with its simple white finishes and stripped wooden floors, Prosta fills a ‘catch-all’ role of cafe/ restaurant/bar/meeting point. And it does all the aforementioned very well indeed, thanks to a skilled chef, a good drinks offer and a continental atmosphere that’s all life and good humor. (H4) ul. Francuska 24, prostahistoria.com Rozbrat 20 Much noise has been made about Rozbrat 20’s bread and wine selection, but their food is also something of a standout. Our trip in December meant twirls of herring pickled in vinegar and herbs and surrounded by a whorl of pond green colors; expertly assembled and boisterously flavored Hungarian foie gras; and a roll of gelatinous pork with ribbons of crispy salsify and a reassuring, fleshy taste. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 20, rozbrat20.com.pl Secado Casual, intimate interiors complement a menu that’s expanded from its original Latin leanings. Everything we’ve tried here has been close to culinary gold, and that includes the surf & turf, tortillas and the roast beef. (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 66, tel. 608 707 799, secado.com.pl Soul Kitchen Bistro If the previous venue was all slanted towards low-pitched business conversation then the new one is positively festive

EAT! Listings in comparison: scuffed brickwork, tall bar stools, a long communal table, etc.

The seasonal menu is a pick-and-mix of small-to-medium plates, including a halibut gravlax, whose delicate taste juxtaposes well against the rougher, earthier kick of the radish, and crayfish presented in a bird’s nest of green beans, fennel and leek. For mains, look for the braised beef. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 18A, soulkitchen.pl Stixx It’s easy to distrust a menu with such international diversity, but the kitchen crew really make it come together: the Indian section is particularly outstanding. Then there’s the design, a balance between slick corporate and sexy cosmopolitan: with the Warsaw Spire towering above it outside, it’s the kind of address to take any new arrival who still thinks of Poland as being backward. (A4) Pl. Europejski 4A, tel. 22 340 4040, stixx.pl Strefa If there’s a dining room in heaven, then it probably looks like Strefa – only marginally less white. Pure and pristine, the swan-like elegance of the interior whispers dignity and decorum.

Immaculate and refined, it’s a soothing atelier with a rarefied air. Mostly though, it’s the food that people talk about. Citing Nordic cuisine as his primary influence, chef Łukasz Andruszkiewicz has honed a menu of note which, on our November visit, included a deep and soothing mushroom soup the brought to mind Poland’s dark autumn forest. The tastes are clear and true and say much for a chef that has his brain switched on. (C3) ul. Próżna 9, tel.

22 255 0850, restauracjastrefa.pl Warszawski Sznyt Warsaw’s historic center is rightly glorified for many reasons – its restaurants, however, are not one of them. In fact, there’s probably nowhere in the city with a higher concentration of sub-par efforts. Aiming to redress the balance are Sznyt, an ambitious venue with swank interiors overlooking the Royal Castle, and a kitchen staff headhunted from blue ribbon venues such as Salto and Amaro. Set over two floors (one focused on Polish cuisine, the other on

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‘international’), the pride of the house is afforded to the wood-fired grill. (D2) ul.

Senatorska 2, warszawskisznyt.pl Weranda Bistro Warmly decorated with shrubbery and dangling paper decoys, Weranda’s design is thoughtful enough to be in equilibrium with the wider Koszyki setting, yet sufficiently distinct to stand apart from the crowd. Kudos, as well, to the food.

Celebrated for their salads, don’t expect to be pecking on morsels of rabbit food – instead, pepare for huge, leafy affairs assembled to look complex and intriguing. Recommended is the Croatian salad which rrives ensconced inside jumbo leaves of lettuce and cascading with mango, shrimps, goat cheese and much more besides. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki), weranda.pl Wilczy Głód The jaunty, impish design makes use of cartoonish wolves on the walls and treelike installations strung with bare light bulbs. And look, there’s a furry, mouse resting on a cushion. But if the place is playful and perky, then the cooking is both serious and sincere. Matching international ideas with organic local produce from small family farmsteads, you immediately sense this is a place created out of a love and respect for food.

(D5) ul. Wilcza 29A, tel. 22 891 0285 Winsky Opened in November, Winsky have made a blistering start to life with early points scored for their selection of edgy ‘tap wines’ and menu of small plates – though mainly Polish in spirit, there’s enough international twists and turns to keep things varied. The design, with its deep sofas and riverside views, feels refined and considered – the kind of place you’d impress a first date. (F4) ul. Wioślarska 10

italian Ave Pizza The argument over who serves Warsaw’s best pizza goes right to the wire, but there’s no doubting that Ave Pizza are up there on the leaderboard. Set across a sparse, metropolitan area, this fashionable L-shaped joint comes endorsed

by the capital’s notoriously picky Italian community. Order the pillowy calzone and you’ll soon learn why. (E3) ul. Topiel 12, tel.

22 828 8507, avepizza.pl DaCurio Although it looks small and humble DaCurio have made quick work of amassing an enthusiastic following.

Credit for that rests with the Roman-style pizza that comes sold by the slice. Made using Italian oils and flour, the pizzas here deserve the adulation they’ve received.

(E3) ul. Tamka 45A Delizia The sheer proliferation of Italian restaurants lends an element of chance to dining out: cut through the noise by visiting Delizia, a place that’s consistently topped polls ever since it launched in 2010. Lorenzo’s cooking is upscale Italian with a contemporary twist, and comes presented by Luca, an ebullient ball of energy who patrols the floor with sparkling good humor. In the hands of these two an unforgettable night comes guaranteed. Top quality imported products, a dimly-lit romantic atmosphere, a tasteful design and faultless food: no wonder so many rate this as their favorite Italian. (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 22 622 6665, delizia.com.pl Dziurka od Klucza An inviting Italian restaurant in which curious doors sit embedded into the walls, as if waiting to be opened by the keys that hang on the tree outside.

Striking a lavender look, the magic of this restaurant is affirmed by its wonderful pasta and intimate style. (E3) ul. Radna 13, tel. 500 150 494, dziurkaodklucza.com.pl Focaccia The Insider’s visit went something like this: wrist-thick octopus with an arc of yellow mousse, conversation stopping beef tenderloin alongside a glistening pool of madeira sauce and then an orange ice cream with caramel and ginger that soon merged into a big gooey brew of chocolatey mess. The only surprise is there’s no Italian in the kitchen – it appears they don’t need one. This is seriously talented cooking inside an interior that fresh and light and reflective of the food. (D2) ul. Senatorska 13/15, tel. 22 829 6969, focaccia.pl

EAT! Listings Mąka i Woda Purists applaud an approach that uses a custom-made oven from Naples and imported ingredients such as 00 Caputo flour and DOP certified San Marzano tomatoes. Scrupulously authentic, it’s no wonder that it’s packed to the gunnels every night of the week – even their Facebook page warns of 20-minute waiting times for a table alone. (D4) ul.

Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 91 87 Otto Pompieri Off-hand there’s about three or four pizzerias in Warsaw that really get it right, but Otto, this place gets it righter. If that’s not a word then apologies, the thing is that’s exactly what it is. The artichoke pizza is an orgy of melty greatness, but it’s the margherita that’s the king: larger than the plate it’s served on, it’s a celestial experience from start to finish.

What about the place itself? It looks every bit as delicious as it tastes. Set within the former, pre-war Hotel Saski, from

the outside it shines amid the grind of Pl. Bankowy like a diamond in the rough.

Inside, it’s retro Little Italy – only new, polished, slick. (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, fb.com/ otto.pompieri

japanese & sushi

Sexy Duck Marketing themselves as a ‘craft Italian kitchen’, Sexy Duck make a song and dance about artisan this and that while never justifying their own hyperbole. Were they not so keen to tell you otherwise, you’d mistake the food as being something from a mid-market high street chain enterprise. Pl. Konstytucji 3, tel. 22 400 3737

Benihana Fire, flash, show and sizzle: the Benihana experience merges cooking with cabaret with diners sat ringside around teppanyaki grills. These cooking stations are the stage for the Benihana crew to demonstrate their riveting range of nifty knifework and daredevil antics. Outside of the realm of the grill, the sushi is also strikes the right spot. (C4) ul. Twarda 2/4, benihanapoland.com

Si From the makers of Secado comes a new downtown venture: Si, a fun Italian stop with homemade pasta, an array of pizza and a hefty choice of cocktails. Geared towards good times, a list of rotating daily offers has done a fair job of drumming up trade. (C3) ul. Marszałkowska 115

Fat Buddha Immense in size, there’s a confident feeling of decadent ostentation: with light kept at bay by vast mulberry-colored drapes, what would otherwise appear as an over-sized hall feels intimate and sensual, dark and delicious. Japanese in spirit,

La Brasserie Moderne is a modern interpretation of traditional brasserie designed to bring the taste of the French art de vivre right to your table. Discover a seasonal menu skillfully composed by chef Maciej Majewski by combining the finest culinary traditions of France with local flavors and a modern twist.

Our open kitchen will complement your dining experience by creating a sense of participation in a live culinary show.

La Brasserie Moderne, visit us Mon.-Sat. noon-midnight | Królewska St 11 | 00-065 Warsaw | Tel. +48 22 657 83 82 | Email: brasserie.moderne@sofitel.com | www.facebook.com/brasserie.moderne

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EAT! Listings the menu pitches a refined selection of exceptional dishes – elaborate dragon rolls; delicate gyoza; and beef tataki that’s lightly seared and thinly sliced. It’s all perfect. (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 2/4 Gabriel de Garcia & Sakana Just when sushi in Warsaw was becoming boring, along comes Gabriel de Garcia with a head full of ideas. Having worked under some of the planet’s top chefs (Juan Maria Arzak, Quiqe Dacosta), de Garcia has sought to bring his experiences together to hone a menu that fuses Spanish tastes with Japanese influences.

The denouement is bold, creative, almost visionary in fact. (D2) ul. Moliera 4/6 Izumi Sushi The original location never ceases to amaze with its sushi, though it’s the addition on Biały Kamień that really gets people talking. Here it’s not just the food that wows, but the interiors: a huge venue whose open plan doubles as an indoor

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forest – you need to see it to believe it.

(D6) ul. Mokotowska 17 (pl. Zbawiciela), tel.

22 825 7950, izumisushi.eu Kago Sushi A place of such merit that it’s worth bludgeoning your way through the surging crowds of off-duty lawyers and second rate ‘slebs. A side project from the team behind Izumi, portioning here is strict and skimpy, but the precision, attention to detail and flavors are second to none.

Bills creep up fast as you opt for ‘just one more nigiri’, but such is the brilliance that complaints are rare. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki), kagosushi.pl Sato Gotuje The tastes of Asia and the Orient are growing increasingly prominent, and not just the posh stuff, but the kind of food you’d look to search out in a back alley market on a backpacking jaunt. Representing Japan in all this is Sato Gotuje, a place that’s reinvented a boring pavilion in

the depths of Ochota. Inside, it’s like you’d expect: squashed and steamy with tables crammed in at every angle. The menu, meanwhile, is an exciting departure from the norm – no sushi here, instead, find a medley of bitey Japanese dishes such as pork tenderloin in breadcrumbs served with tonkatsu sauce. With the prices so low the temptation is to order your way through the menu, and many do just that. ul. Pawińskiego 24 Shoku In local terms, this has to be amongst the most blogged about restaurants of the year thus far. While it actually opened several months back, it’s only now that the place is gathering steam and getting recognized thanks to word-of-mouth.

In truth, it’s not hard to see what the fuss is about: occupying a cool, almost industrial-looking spot not far from the Rising Museum, Shoku offers an excellent menu of Asian-style tapas and small plates inside a buzzy background

EAT! Listings that’s never short of custom. The tuna steak is recommended. (A4) ul. Karolkowa 30, shoku.pl Sushi Zushi The mania for sushi is in recess, and that’s a good thing – the rogue operators are dead or dying off, and are survived by the best. And make no mistake, Sushi Zushi continue to be one of the No. 1 ex-pat choices. Appreciated by a stunning crowd, the rolls are often bold, creative and always astonishingly fresh.

(D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 420 3373, sushizushi.pl Tomo While Warsaw’s other sushi stops gather cobwebs Tomo packs out each night – that should say enough. With the maki, sushi and sashimi bobbing past on wooden platters, this place aims for fast, maximum turnover without ever making the diner feel second best. (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2344, tomo.pl Uki Uki How much do the locals appreciate Warsaw’s original udon bar? Enough to queue outside the door? That’s right.

Dining is a close quarters experience here, but is done so without complaint: that electric pasta maker turns out noodles of such chewy goodness that everyone leaves beaming. (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, tel. 728 827 705, ukiuki.pl Wabu Sushi becomes a heaven’s gate spiritual experience in Wabu with the evening passing in a blur of beautiful compositions, of silky slithers of fish crowned with expert pinches of this, and little brush strokes of that. That’s all elevated even further by deliciously upscale interiors befitting of the Spire location. (A4) Pl. Europejski 2 (Warsaw Spire), wabu.pl

jewish Tel Aviv Although this multicultural melting pot is best-known for its Israeli street food, it’s the shift towards ‘vegan fine dining’ that has really caught the attention. (D5) ul.

Poznanska 11, restauracjatelaviv.pl

korean Ban Bao Specializing in bao – soft and pillowy steamed buns cascading with slowcooked meats and crunchy veg – this spot has attained a serious sense of buzz.

Kimchi fries, KFC (Korean Fried Chicken) and fragrant Thai soups round out the menu, with the experience topped off by a hip, post-industrial interior that’s high on chunky wooden benches and exposed concrete touches. Bottom line: addictive!

(B4) ul. Żelazna 58/62 The Cool Cat Reinventing itself to serve pimped-up plates of ‘Americanized Korean’, this fun spot has come on in leaps and bounds since opening two years back. Autumn highlights: K-fries (kimchi, bulgogi beef, chips – messy, delicious), a dessert that saw a heap of matcha tea ice cream stuffed inside a donut (no words for how clever that is), and a Kimchi Mary cocktail that was topped with strips of crunchy bacon. (F4) ul. Solec 38, tel. 787 698 700 Koreanka A courtyard cubbyhole that’s scuffed, informal and fashionably ramshackle.

Such has been the stir created by it, diners arrive in the knowledge that they’ll be scavenging a table and eating what little might be leftover from another sell-out day. Yet here’s the point of contention: is it really all that’s cracked up? The kimchi is exemplary, but not everything works so well. Though raved about by Warsaw’s Instagrammers, we were left disenchanted by the shallow, empty tastes of the bulgogi. (D6) ul.

Koszykowa 59 Miss Kimchi Cheap and cheerful Korean street food served in a small, steamy space that’s frequently packed to the rafters. Box sets come piled high with meat, rice and veg.

The spotlight falls on the bibimbap, a satisfying mess of shredded veg, lively spices, a fried egg and beef bulgogi. This is replenishment in its truest form. (B4) ul. Żelazna 58/62, tel. 570 186 066 Onggi Positive transformations aren’t confined warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings to Ramsay’s Kitchen Nightmares: after a dreadful start characterized by bland, claggy dishes, this Korean restaurant has spun a U-turn that’s left the competition reeling. The menu is daunting in size, but contains wildly interesting finds such as a streaky bacon stir fry, spicy pickled Daikon radish and lotus root simmered in soy sauce. (D2) ul. Moliera 2 Sora Maybe it’s not the best, but it’s certainly the best-known Korean restaurant in town. The tabletop BBQ sets are an essential order and ideal for the shared bonding experience. It all tastes even better with copious quantities of Makkoli wine. (A4) ul. Wronia 45

latin & spanish Casa Pablo “We give Spanish food a new twist,”

declares chef Gonzalo de Salas, which explains why, in between pungent cheeses and acorn-fed Bellota ham, we find ourselves demolishing a variety of dishes that buck all notions of tradition: as a starter the beetroot-marinated salmon served with wasabi emulsion is a fine example of this. With de Salas performing balletic tricks in the kitchen, Casa Pablo presents a masterful menu that ripples with adventure. (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5A, tel.

22 324 5781, casapablo.pl

Restaurante Bunuel Spanish-owned Bunuel has left many in raptures. Simple interiors focus attention on the food, which in this case involves a crisp gazpacho that gets you missing summer, and grilled meats that leave many in a swoon. (H4) ul. Walecznych 61, tel. 798 659 554, bunuel-restauracja.com

Tapas Gastrobar The popular practice is to order so many plates and bottles that the table becomes a Magic Eye of kaleidoscope patterns.

A great place for sharing and general interaction, the ambiance and quality belies the corporate anonymity of the location. Though the gazapcho is first class it’s bettered by the patatas bravos: fried potatoes in a ballsy tomato sauce.

(A4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 251 1310, tapasbar.pl

Blue Cactus Combining the barbecuing techniques of the southern states with the humble but potent tastes of Mexico, this veteran landmark is committed to local produce and fresh flavors, the previous chef’s finest moment was hoiking over a woodfired grill all the way from Nashville – the steaks will stop you in your tracks. Note: not all recent reports have been positive, with service issues cited as a particular complaint. (E8) ul. Zajączkowska 11

mexican

Restaurant & Pastry Shop Warsaw, Żurawia 47/49, open: 7.00 - 22.00 reservations: tel. +48 (22) 621 82 68 Pastry Shop Warsaw, Felińskiego 52, open: 9.00 - 20.00

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EAT! Listings Dos Tacos Who doesn’t like asking for something that’s ‘under the counter’. In the case of Dos Tacos, doing so means inquiring about their range of ‘salsa clandestinas’: extra hot sauces designed for reckless thrill-seekers. But the true secret weapon at Dos Tacos is Isabel Balderas, a Mexican chef that has mastered the bright, bold tastes of her native country. This cuisine has enjoyed a breakout year in Warsaw, but while the millennials clamor over new food trucks and funky little start-ups, Dos Tacos is a timely reminder that the old guard sometimes know best. (D4) ul.

Jasna 22, tel. 22 243 4618, dostacos.pl Gringo Bar After years of suffering frozen ingredients, timid flavors and daft Mariachi music to persuade us it’s all authentic, a raft of new cut-price eateries are showing the rest how it’s done. Cooked and folded by fist bumping lads in back-to-front caps and baggy t-shirts, the food at Gringo

is fiery, fresh and full of zing. There are detractors who claim this is a Polonized version of this cuisine, but the informal Gringo remains one of the market leaders.

(E9) ul. Odolańska 15, tel. 22 848 9523, gringobar.pl La Sirena Creamy guacamole the color of Kermit; cocktails that are both vicious and delicious; and drunken beans full of heart and vim. But La Sirena gets even better, particularly with the short ribs burrito and a readjusted ‘almost death salsa’ that’s learned to say POW. Add to this a machete-laden interior that draws inspiration from the ultra-violent films of Danny Trejo, and you understand why this tiny, backstreet cantina has become the talk of the town. At no point in its history has Warsaw enjoyed better Mexican food.

(D5) ul. Piękna 54 Margarita Kolendra First impressions reveal a venue that

looks like it wasn’t so much put together on the cheap as it was put together overnight. In essence, you’re left eyeing a sparse white room emboldened by a vulgar assortment of garish, peasant fabrics. The menu, though limited and restrictive, is one of those magic works of passion so rarely seen on Warsaw’s Mexican map. These are dishes delivered with real dash and spirit: if in doubt, order the Al Pastor tacos. (F1) ul. Okrzei 35, fb.com/MargaritaKolendra Urban Burritos It’s here, in this unassuming subterranean world, that people gather for what is being hyped as Warsaw’s top burrito.

Offering fillings of pork, beef, chicken and Portobello mushroom, wraps come expertly constructed and served with salsas that sing with gusto. Set within shouting distance of the US Embassy, peak times see Urban Burritos fill to the seams with America’s finest. (D6) ul.

Piękna 22, urbanburritos.pl

NEW MENU

Modern take on Italian cuisine

tel.: +48 22 829 69 69 ul. Senatorska 13/15, Warsaw/Old Town restauracja@focaccia.pl, fb.com/restauracjafocaccia www.focaccia.pl

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EAT! Listings middle eastern

Dom Faraona Sitting just off Nowy Świat, this Egyptian restaurant comes soaked in the soothing scent of the sheesha. The comprehensive menu has plenty of zingy Middle Eastern small plates for starters, though really earns its stripes on account of its grill dishes: the lamb ribs are a house specialty. If you like what you see, visit their cafe in CH Panorama. (E4) ul. Ordynacka 13, dom-faraona.com Florentin A quite beautiful, pale-colored dining room that boldly presents the cuisine of modern day Israel. High on North African twists and turns, there’s a creativity at work here that marks Florentin out as

one of the most exciting openings in recent times: if in doubt, the veal with harissa, grilled pepper and pear puree is a winning order that deserves full attention. Onto dessert, and make space for the basil panna cotta served with ‘tomato jam’. (E4) ul. Smolna 40, fb.com/ FlorentinWarszawa Le Cedre With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoalgrilled lamb chops. (E1) Al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166, lecedre.pl Le Cedre 84 Le Cedre just keep on getting it

right. Authenticity is key in this chainlette (well, there’s another across the river), as you’ll discover when talking to Tony, the Lebanese owner. To see the diversity of this cuisine, order the balbaak (six cold starters) or the byblos (six hot).

And food aside, it’s the atmosphere that carries them that extra yard: the whole philosophy of this cuisine is to share and share alike, making it a uniquely engaging experience when dining with friends.

(B3) Al. Solidarności 84, tel. 22 618 8999, lecedre.pl Le Cedre Lounge Furnished in voluptuous Middle Eastern style, the latest subsidiary of the Le Cedre empire bursts with fancy sheesha pipes, extravagant rugs and shimmery satin drapes. It’s a look that’s fun, familiar, intimate and warm. Less encyclopedic than that of its two sister ventures, Le Cedre Lounge has a slimmer menu that introduces several new tastes to fans of Lebanese cuisine. Helplessly

The Pink Lobster is enthusiastically visited by connoisseurs of the good things in life: find top range produce given the fine dining treatment courtesy of chef and co-owner Jarek Walczyk (President of the Chef’s Club Foundation, Head Chef Bocuse d’Or Poland, and the brand ambassador for 92, ZT Kruszwica, and Bursztyn cheese).

UL. ŻURAWIA 6/12, PINKLOBSTER.PL MOB: +48 572 672 772 RESERVATIONS: KONTAKT@PINKLOBSTER.PL

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EAT! Listings more-ish, it’s food that’s in line with the vibey atmosphere and casual air. (C4) ul.

Grzybowska 5A, lecedre.pl Samira There was something a little seedy about Samira’s old location, but that’s all forgotten in their new digs on Powsińska. Find this great Lebanese supermarket filling a dual role as an authentic restaurant serving authentic dishes such as kafta and shawarma. ul. Powsińska 64a, tel. 22 825 3363, samira.pl Shuk Located behind Hala Banacha in this gradually blooming district of Warsaw, SHUK’s certainly worth the tram ride if you’re not a native Ochotian. An offshoot of the acclaimed Mezze, highlights on our visit included a well-seasoned Arabic soup with lentils and spinach followed by a skillet of fried oyster mushrooms cooked with onions and served alongside harissa topped with rose petals. You’re looking at quite a special place that realigns your mojo on an ashen Warsaw day. ul. Grójecka 127 Sokotra Casting a warm, steamy glow over this corner of Wilcza, Sokotra reveals itself as a well-designed nook with a rough, urban edge: telegraph poles, bare bulbs and exposed lumps of concrete. Yemeni dishes are available though it’s the Indian food that shines – the Madras is intense, pungent and suitably fiery. (D5) ul. Wilcza 27, tel. 22 270 2766, sokotra.pl

polish Bazyliszek Some parts of Bazyliszek hark to its years as a stately, stuffy restaurant. Now though it’s more earthy, with Jurassic portions of meaty, lardy food best consumed with one-liter beers. The Rynek location and festive atmosphere account for its popularity more than anything that comes from the kitchen. (D1) Rynek Starego Miasto 1/3, tel. 22 831 1841, bazyliszek. waw.pl Bar Gdański Closed in spring, a brief but thorough refit conducted by the new owner has

given this milk bar a late lease of life.

Gone are the plastic plants, putrid smells and that slow feeling of death, replaced instead by a fresher look in keeping with the times. Despite this, the historic core has been retained including the daffodil colors and original floor tiles. How’s the food? Cheap. That’s probably the kindest thing you can say about it. Despite that, Gdański feels like an essential part of the community. (B1) ul. Andersa 33, fb.com/ bargdanskimuranow Belvedere Łazienki Królewskie Set in an imperial age glass orangery, it’s festooned with intricate latticework and botanical exotica. The updated interiors are the work of acclaimed set designer Boris Kudlicka, and lend a fresh, contemporary tone that goes hand in hand with the menu. But behind the gels and emulsions and pretty little swirls, this is cooking of substantial depth; it’s cooking that takes you to the very soul of Polish nature. ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. 22 558 6701, belvedere.com.pl Bez Gwiazdek Hide the white tablecloth! One of the more discernible trends of late has seen chefs attempt to replicate fine dining standards but in casual surrounds. Few are more qualified to do so than Robert Trzópek, a man whose résumé includes experience gained in Noma and El Bulli.

Seeking to ‘reinterpret forgotten Polish cuisine’, his tasting menu at Bez Gwiazdek focuses on a different region each month – November was a goosey exploration of Kujawa-Pomerania and included such flights of fancy as a goose-stuffed donut for starter. Intimate, forward-thinking, thrilling, it’s no wonder foodies talk about this place with reverence and awe. (E3) ul.

Wiślana 8, bezgwiazdek.com.pl Bistro Pod Sowami Inside, the ground floor restaurant looks chic and elegant: tall windows and long polished tables, a granite bar and sleek looking lines. The menu backtracks through the passages of history to present ‘old Warsaw’ dishes as seen through a distinctly modern lens, with the high point being a 15-course tasting menu for zł. 60. That translates to a barrage of artfully adorned, telescopic-sized plates.

Some work are great, but others are even greater. All in, it’s an excellent ambas-

Book your table for Valentine’s now

Le Cedre Lounge Grzybowska 5A Tel 22 299 7299

Le Cedre 61

(opposite the zoo) Al. Solidarności 61, Praga Tel 22 670 1166

Le Cedre 84

(opposite the court) Al. Solidarności 84 Tel 22 618 8999

www.lecedre.pl warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings sador for the new face of Old Praga. (F1) ul. Okrzei 26, fb.com/bistropodsowami Bistro Z There’s no shortage of places in Warsaw claiming to serve ‘food from the heart’, but not many do so with the same integrity and passion as Bistro Z. Regarded as a pearl of Praga, the look is well-balanced – chic but homely – while the cooking is firmly oriented around local recipes and ingredients. At 20 zeds, the lunch deal is a lesson in charity. (F1) ul. Ząbkowska 12 Czerwony Wieprz (Red Hog) An amusing restaurant that looks back at communism through a rose-tinted lens.

Under the glowering gaze of commie tyrants, staff dressed like obedient members of the party’s Youth League deliver hefty dishes from a cheeky menu that is in itself a collector’s item. (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 22 850 3144, czerwonywieprz.pl

Delicja Polska Looking stately (pink bows, gilt touches and immaculate linen) but never stuffy, Delicja have a modern Polish menu that includes sous-vide salmon marinated in beetroot leaves, then topped with horseradish foam and dill emulsion. Brilliant.

But then so was everything else we tried,

including the exquisite seasoned roast beef. (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 64, tel. 22 826 4770, delicjapolska.pl Dom Polski Almost like it was designed for the manor born, Dom Polski has the rarefied atmosphere of a country retreat: bow-tied staff who click their heels, decorative antiques and a menu that’s a sumptuous anthology of posh Polish cooking. When you need to give visitors a sense of classic Warsaw, Dom Polski is the first out of the hat. (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 2432, restauracjadompolski.pl Dom Polski Belwederska Accessed via curling pathways and bursting shrubs this restaurant conjures images of an aristocrat’s manor. The air of privilege matches a menu that’s rich in fanciful classics such as their signature goose. Elegant and exquisite, consider it your default choice for a taste of true Poland. (F8) ul. Belwederska 18A, tel. 22 840 5060, restauracjadompolski.pl Elixir by Dom Wódki There are some who call the food here ‘deconstructed Polish’. In actuality, ‘reconstructed’ would be closer to the mark. The chef has taken local classics and redrafted the recipes with the swoosh of a contemporary pen. The outcome is a pleasure from start to finish: a life affirming żurek, a tartar that

could fulfill ambassadorial duties for Poland, and a handsome beef tenderloin sprinkled with crispy potato shavings.

Thoughtful pairings with lesser-known, boutique vodkas add another dimension that serves to complete this pleasing, patriotic adventure. (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl Folk Gospoda If you missed the last train to Zakopane, then a night in Folk Gospoda is the next best thing. Kitted out like a typical tavern in the Tatras, it’s a good-humored celebration of mountain-slope traditions: heaps of meat and lard with plenty of vodka and song in between. (B3) ul.

Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605, folkgospoda.pl Jaś & Małgosia Insouciant one moment, your best friend the next, the staff at Jaś & Małgosia show the two faces of Polish service brilliantly.

Reactivated a couple of years ago, this gem has a story dating back to the 60s, and a great atmosphere primed for simple food and local drinks. (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 57, tel. 502 033 711, klubjasimalgosia.pl Kafe Zielony Niedźwiedź A refuge of swish fancy, think of the Green Bear as a place of sanctuary and seclusion and of chic, high living. From the outset, you’re made to feel that good things will happen, and this they do – certified by Poland’s nascent Slow Food movement, the menu gives big billing to the suppliers that keep the pantry stocked. But the truth is, these aren’t the only stars of the show. Led by Wojciech Deres, the kitchen team are an accomplished bunch. The Insider’s November visit included a rousing goose terrine and finely balanced veal sweetbreads.

When skies are cold and granite, it’s food like this that helps you carry on. (E4) ul.

Smolna 4, tel. 731 996 006, kafezn.pl Kieliszki na Próżnej You’ll find Kieliszki na Próżnej, the latest restaurant to mark the rehabilitation of Próżna, so named after the 1,116 wineglasses that hang tantalizingly over the bar. As an anchor feature the suspended glassware is arresting, and equaled only by a long stretch of wall art doodled by Mariusz Tarkawian. The food matches up to the interiors, with a modern Polish

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EAT! Listings menu that – on our visit – involved a thick, brilliantly spreadable foie gras pate, a thick slab of brawn and a delicate piece of moist Baltic cod. It’s pure seasonal comfort. (C3) ul. Próżna 12, tel. 501 764 674, kieliszkinaproznej.pl Mała Polana Smaków Put simply, it works on every level: from the service to the space – outside, a terrace featuring upcycled crates overlooking Morskie Oko, and on the inside, a cute little room with woodsy bits and big glass jars of mystery ingredients. It’s casual, but still fit for more serious roles: e.g. girlfriend night. And the food: exceptional.

Lots of seasonally changing choices that on our visit meant salmon sausage matched with beetroot and horseradish sauce along with pinches of lavender and fennel. (F9) ul. Belwederska 13/44, tel. 22 400 8048, polanasmakow.pl

of monarchs in ermine stare down from the walls; pristine parquet floors gently creak underfoot; from another chamber, the sound of clinking glasses whispers through the air. Yet as much as the interior makes an impact it fails to steal the show. That belongs to Paweł Zieliński, a chef whose biography includes a stint at the Michelin starred L’Ecrivain in Dublin. Now back in Poland, his menu is a patriotic proclamation of all that is good.

It’s here the Insider enjoyed its favorite żurek of 2016. (E5) Al. Ujadowskie 24, tel.

22 629 2312, podgigantami.pl

Restauracja Polska “Różana” The rarified atmosphere of Różana is a pleasure indeed. Close to the frontline of Mokotów / Śródmieście, you’d never guess the proximity of the center. Seated in their garden, one feels removed from the city – a fountain burbles quietly in the background, starlings hop around the trees. From the inside, one hears the distant tinkle of the house pianist. Just being here is a thrill in itself, and the food is a Polish dining extravaganza served from the top table: farmhouse duck, saddle of venison, etc. (E8) ul. Chocimska

Papu Evoking the spirit of a gentleman’s manor, Papu looks every inch the classic Polish restaurant. Reliant on regional produce from mom & pop farmsteads, chef Bartek Kędra’s menu does a gold carat job of enhancing old-fashioned recipes through the use of modern techniques. (D9) al.

Niepodległości 132/136, tel. 22 856 7788, restauracjapapu.pl Podwale Piwna Kompania Prowling mountain bands generate a beer hall atmosphere, while the courtyard garden – designed to replicate a Mitteleuropa square – is one of the best you’ll find. But the obscene portions can’t mask what is pretty poor food. Go there for the experience, if nothing else. (D2) ul.

Podwale 25, tel. 22 635 6314, podwale25.pl Prasowy Delicate diners turn their back on milk bars, yet this canteen-style phenomenon, with its history rooted in communism, has enjoyed a remarkable renaissance and a freshly found popularity with a new generation. Sure, the food is an acquired taste and best described using words like ‘basic’, ‘bland’ and ‘honest’, but Prasowy gets our vote for a cool design that’s seen the 1954 interiors sensitively updated.

(E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16 Restauracja Pod Gigantami All pomp and splendor, huge portraits

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EAT! Listings 7, tel. 22 848 1225, restauracjarozana. com.pl Schabowy Red gingham tablecloths are just about the only decorative element in this plain Jane restaurant; aesthetics don’t figure highly, and that much is clear through an approach to plating presentation that’s best described as basic. But boy, they can cook – simple but delicious, the food here is Polish home cooking at its best: great ingredients used to even greater effect.

As the name suggests, schabowy is the star, and here you’ll find it served in three different forms. ul. Obrzeżna 1, fb.com/ schabowy.warszawa Słoik Jarheads will love Słoik, a place lined with glass jars brimming with colorful ingredients and bright preserves. Find natural Polish produce and traditionalsounding dishes treated with a careful and contemporary hand. The approach pits modernist against classic, and the winner is, well, you. This is traditional Polish food updated for the discerning, latter day palate – and it’s really quite something. (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 600 396 688, restauracjasloik.pl Stary Dom A classic restaurant in style and history: back in the day it was a favorite haunt of jockeys and race goers from the horse track nearby. Pre-war recipes form the basis of the menu, with the team using seasonal produce and the latest technology to bring out its best. ul. Puławska 104/106, tel. 22 646 4208, restauracjastarydom.pl Talerzyki Presenting big flavors on small plates, here’s a place that miniaturizes the more glorious aspects of the nation’s cuisine and does so in style. The usual suspects are here – silvery slithers of herring; glistening pickles; and beef tartare that flushes raw redness – and if any extra oomph was needed then that’s supplied by classic, old school cocktails served by smooth-talking gents in crisp shirts and braces. Smart and stellar but never silly or over-played, Talerzyki manages the improbable by Polonizing the concept of tapas and coming out trumps. (D6) ul.

Mokotowska 33/35

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U Fukiera New arrivals looking to get a grasp of local cuisine have many options in varying price brackets. U Fukiera is definitely in the big spend category, but visitors come away with a common sense of wonderment. That’s largely due to enchanting interiors that have guests exploring twinkling chambers that unravel like a fairytale. Set in a 500 year old townhouse, the beautiful backdrop is accompanied by a grand menu of duck, venison, veal and lamb. (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 27 (Old Town Market Square), tel. 22 831 1013, ufukiera.pl U Szwejka Named after the fictional Czech soldier Szwejk, the food here would certainly appeal to the tubby man himself.

Bestowed with Prague street signs, the food is a hardy, meaty affair, and arrives in XXXL portions. The price to quantity (Note: not quality) ratio guarantees queues (yes, queues) that stretch out on the street every weekend. (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1710, uszwejka.pl Warszawski Sen By Mateusz Gessler A quite stunning restaurant dominated by dark geometric patterns and the installations and ideas of guerilla artist Tomasz Górnicki. Once you’ve caught your breath and snapped off a few pics for your Instagram, settle in for a menu that gives Polish ingredients a highly contemporary treatment. If you thought Hala Koszyki was buzzing, then this edgy space is perhaps its biggest buzz of all. ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki), mateuszgessler.com.pl

Zapiecek Seven Warsaw locales, with our favorite found in the vaulted passages of Świętojańska. The menu is highly traditional, with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’. It’s for the pierogi though for which they’re famous; find approx. fifty types delivered by servers dressed like saucy country maids. Locations inc. ul.

Nowy Świat 64, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska 13, tel. 22 635 61 09, & ul. Wańkowicza 1, zapiecek.eu Zielnik A quiet Mokotów side street is the setting

EAT! Listings for this little secret. In it, flowers, lots of them, and a warming wood interior just right for winter. In summer, head instead to their glorious garden across the street in the park: adding a sophisticated twist to the holy grill, the skewered lamb is to die for. (D10) ul. Odyńca 15, tel. 22 844 3500, restauracjazielnik.pl

scandinavian Nabo The décor is, we’re told, typical Danish cafe – bold open windows, simple lines, high shelves filled with books and games on the table. But what is Danish food? There’s Old Danish on the menu: meatballs and open face sandwiches with meat and fish in various textural configurations and then there’s New Danish: an emerging trend towards fresh, seasonal food (no microwave oven at Nabo), with locally sourced and innovatively concocted ingredients. ul.

Zakręt 8, tel. 22 842 0256, nabocafe.pl

seafood L’Arc French in style, seafood dominates the menu of L’Arc with the lobster and oysters a particular standout. Full review coming soon. (E8) ul. Puławska 16, larc.pl Lokal na Rybę Seafood doesn’t play a particularly distinguished role in Warsaw’s culinary history, so the opening of a good fish restaurant tends to get the locals talking. But Lokal isn’t just good, it goes several steps beyond. Open just three days a week (Thu-Sat, evenings only), the rotating menu presents a handful of daily choices against a simple, no pretense interior that’s often packed solid – reservations come recommended, as do the mussel dishes. (D9) ul. Kwiatowa 1/3/4, fb.com/ lokalnarybe U Rysia Devoid of frills bar a glowing neon sign and a brooding mural of Jesus, it looks like a Polish fish restaurant should – basic but with an undercurrent of bustle that keeps the mood bright. It tastes like the

real thing as well. Sourcing their catch from the freshwater lakes of northern Poland, the offer is divided into fish that have been smoked, steamed, fried or baked. Check out the perch ‘chips’ fried in batter. (C4) ul. Marszałkowska 140 (enter from ul. Rysia), urysia.com.pl

specialty food shops Bazar Olkuska Once a sad little side street, Olkuska has evolved to become just about the worst kept secret in Warsaw. Home to the city’s top eco-market, trips here end with shopping bags filled with French cheeses, Italian hams, Hungarian sausages and fresh fruit and veg. (E10) ul. Olkuska 12 Befsztyk The Prokopowicz family has come a long way since launching Befsztyk in 1994.

Top restaurants, celebs and ex-pats are listed as clients, and all agree that this operation is indisputably ‘top of the chops’.

Find steaks seasoned for three weeks, gluten-free smoked meats, Merino lamb, BBQ kits and so much more. Home delivery, internet ordering and Englishspeaking staff round out this legend. many locations, befsztyk.pl

BioBazar With its previous home in Wola undergoing a substantial redevelopment, the BioBazar has moved to Mokotów. At the forefront of Poland’s food revolution, it’s a place that shines a light on ecologically certified goods and produce. Fresh fish, cheese, eggs, bread, cured sausages, honey... on it goes. Comprehensive in its pitch, everything you need to pursue a bright, happy life is here on this spot. ul.

Wołoska 3, biobazar.com.pl (B4) ul. Żelazna 51/53, biobazar.org.pl The Crazy Butcher Grzegorz Kwapniewski, better known as ‘Warsaw’s celebrity butcher’, has a new store in town, that being a corner unit in Hala Koszyki. Named by chefs across

town as their principal source of meat, Kwapniewski’s offer includes Polish Red Angus, long-seasoned, marbled beef, not to mention veal, lamb, poultry and cured meats from small scale producers. ul.

Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki) Dobrze Co-op The Dobrze Food Co-op aims to ‘widen access to healthy, seasonal food’ while also supporting sustainable agriculture.

Founded in summer, 2014, the project collaborates with over 20 farms and local businesses and sells fresh vegetables and fruit alongside cereals, dried goods and other bits and pieces. ul. Wilcza 29A & ul. Andersa 27, dobrze.waw.pl Forteca Kregliccy Spot the stars of Warsaw’s restaurant scene perusing the stalls at this weekly farmers’ market. Held each Wednesday, look for Pan Ziółko, Poland’s first celebrity farmer (!), Portobello’s from the country’s only organic mushroom farm and the magical yogurts from Mleczna Droga Manufaktura Serów. ul. Zakroczymska 12, kregliccy.eu/forteca Hala Gwardii Taking its cue from the market places of Lisbon and Marseilles, Hala Gwardii aims to reprise its former pre-war role as the city’s best-known food market. Designed to complement rather than compete with Hala Mirowska outside, the market is a sensory big bang with dozens of stalls specializing in everything from cheese and sausages, to rolled Thai ice cream and posh pet supplies. (C3) Pl. Mirowska 2, fb.com/halagwardii

steak houses Beef n’ Pepper A social space that encourages friends to gather and make merry over big meaty courses. Served on heavy tree stump plates, steaks here use Polish Angus aged for a 28-day period. If you’re into the concept of sharing with your fellow man, then the Beef n’Pepper plate offers a pile of everything: wings, ribs, steak.

(C5) ul. Nowogrodzka 47A, tel. 785 025 025, beefandpepper.pl warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings Butchery & Wine The Sarf London-born Bertha oven has revolutionized the way steak is cooked, retaining moisture in a way no-one thought possible. Expect robust pieces of animal full of big, brawny tastes, but there’s so much more than just meat: starters involve a sea bass ceviche that pings with citrusy flavor not to mention more-ish pork crackling that pop like fire bangers in the mouth. A place of energy and ambition, it’s a great mix of both new and classic. Bookings advised. (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 502 3118, butcheryandwine.pl Hoża Wine and steak: it sounds so simple, but Hoża have taken two simple pleasures to another level. It’s an ebullient space with service right out of charm school, and a kitchen team with a real knowledge of cows. A red-blooded affair, the menu is a steak sensation and well paired with a handpicked wine list. (D5) ul. Hoża 25A, tel.

603 778 275, hoza.warszawa.pl Merliniego 5 A classic looking steakhouse that swirls in shadow, brickwork and elegant touches, it’s a place to immerse yourself in an atmosphere that’s all surreptitious conversation and distant clinking glasses. The steaks are out-of-this world, with USDA prime beef from New York’s legendary Ottomanelli & Sons and Scottish beef from London’s Smithfield Market. On our last visit we splurged on the Grade 9+ wagyu ‘kobe’ rib-eye and found ourselves eating the steak of a lifetime. (E10) ul. Merliniego 5, tel. 22 646 0810, merliniego5.pl

thai Thai Thai In terms of design it’s little short of perfect: gold vaulted interiors lend a muted glow to a largely black on black space while serene looking Buddha’s peer on the diners below. As for the food, that’s one big success story with plenty of lively flavors and dynamic colors. The Tom Yang Kung, a deeply nourishing fish broth that awakens the senses with a sharp, spicy jolt, is a must! (C2) Pl. Teatralny 3, tel. 601 818 283, thaithai.pl

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Thaisty The most successful business model pioneered in recent years? That’s the work of Thaisty, a bright, cheerful spot with a ‘street style’ and moderate prices – queues, at times, stretch out the door.

Vivid colors and a busy open kitchen lend the place a happy buzz that lasts through the day, yet despite this many have voiced concerns that Thaisty’s runaway success has come at a cost to the overall quality.

Even so, the BBQ skewers remain a good order. (C2) Pl. Bankowy 4, tel. 730 000 024, thaisty.pl

ukrainian Kanapa Ukrainian cuisine gets a modern makeover courtesy of upcoming chef Jarosław Artiuch. Occupying a swish-looking villa, the overall look is upmarket with touches of eclectic whimsy while the menu is a careful work that transforms this famously heavy cuisine into something delicate and refined. The tasting menu (PLN 149 for ten courses) offers a 360 view of Artiuch’s skill set. ul. Narbutta 10

vegan & wholefood Lokal Vegan Bistro Aside from a small menu consisting of more standard vegan offers, Lokal keep Homer Simpson characters in mind with regular guest slots for street food that’s given a full vegan makeover. Offhand, that’s meant vegan kebabs, cheesesteaks, burgers and zapiekanka, all of which have been pretty damn good. (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, 517 615 122 Momencik Vegan burritos may sound wrong, but at Momencik they’re every bit as good as anything you’ll be used to. The only difference is that you won’t leave feeling like you’ve eaten a sack of socks: on the contrary, it’s got all the perky flavor that Mexican food should have, but none of the unpleasant post-meal bloaty bubbles. And it’s cheap! Diners fork out less than zł. 22 for a lunch deal that includes homemade

lemonade, a burrito and soup of the day: it’s your lucky day if that happens to be their tomato soup. (D5) ul. Poznańska 16 Vegan Ramen Shop Vegan Ramen have struck gold on account of their complex bowls of restorative goodness: their fan base extends way beyond the boundaries of Saska Kępa. Enjoy in a cool interior filled with cute Japanese props on dozens of ‘levitating shelves’. (G3) ul. Finlandzka 12A Youmiko Vegan Sushi Already well-established in Kraków, Youmiko enter Warsaw’s vegan sushi market hot on the heels of Edamame on Wilcza nearby. There’s definitely more of a hipster, ‘urban guerrilla’ feel to Youmiko, but the sushi is every bit a success. Often better than ‘the real thing’. (D5) ul. Hoża 62, youmiko.vg

vietnamese Oh My Pho A busy, family-run joint, OMP’s specific claim to fame is what many are terming the best and most authentic pho in the ward. Steamy and aromatic, this is pho as it should be: full of big herby thwacks, ribboning noodles, and soft strips of meat in a clear, restorative stock. Often cited as being the ‘soul of the nation’, just a few noisy slurps are all that’s needed to corroborate the life-affirming goodness of this beautiful broth... (D5) ul. Wilcza 32, fb.com/ohmyphowilcza Vietnamka Divey but lively, diners step down into Vietnamka to find a shouty little lair of mint green walls and wobbly wooden tables. Infused with a gentle sense of chaos (drinks after mains, mains before starters), there’s a certain charm at work that feels authentic and convincing. As for the food, you suspect that’ll be ’nam good when TV chef Kurt Scheller wonders in for a take-out. And boy, yes it is. Squiggled onto a crumpled sheet of paper, menu items include giant bowls of warming pho, steamed goat with lemongrass and more-ish spring rolls. Exceptional in every respect, the cooking here sails Warsaw’s Asian scene into uncharted waters. (D5) ul.

Poznańska 7, fb.com/VietnamkaPoznanska

DRINK!

PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

FULL OF BEANS

Increasingly splotched by bland, faceless chains, the coffee map of Warsaw has come under sustained assault from boring brands with destructive ideas of conquering the world. They’ll never get there mind, not while you have places such as this to lead the resistance. Looking pristine in her pearl white colors, Coffeedesk is a place that does it right. Brewed by expert coffeeologists, the humble cup of Joe becomes an object of adoration that sends spirits soaring. Populated round-theclock by freelancers tapping diligently into Macs, it’s a light, bright spot with a dynamic style and a keen sense of sexy. Just being here feels good and that’s good enough.

Coffeedesk ul. Wilcza 42, fb.com/coffeedeskwilcza

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DRINKS FOR TWO

The flowers have been delivered and the restaurant’s been booked... but where to go for that Valentine’s drink?

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Drink! Valentine’s Options

PA N I W I N A

FOR... WINE

Ale Wino ul. Mokotowska 48 Without doubt, the top time is the summer when drinkers congregate on a courtyard deck shielded by a sail.

But winter ain’t so bad either with this covert wine bar unraveling to reveal a series of little chambers.

The wine choice is comprehensive and it’s ably supported by some of the best cooking in the city: chef Sebastian Wełpa is one of Warsaw’s great talents.

FOR... CLEVER COCKTAILS

Charlie ul. Mokotowska 39 Crowd: glam & vampy.

The venue: equally so.

Occupying the first floor of a pre-war tenement, there’s a magic here that summons the age of F. Scott Fitzgerald – Gatsby would love it.

The ace in the pack is a ‘subconscious menu’ from which clients order mystery cocktails based on their scent.

FOR... SOME CHAMPERS

Bubbles Pl. Piłsudskiego 9 Sorry, what was that – a table for two on Valentine’s Day? Ha ha ha. But if scoring a place on Feb 14th is tricky, then there is one crumb of comfort. Such is the style of Bubbles it feels like Valentine’s all year round: high on intimacy, it’s a charming ensemble of rickety crates and deep, dark colors. But the clincher, that’s the prodigious selection of champagne. Now while you’d usually expect a champagne bar to be filled with footballers wives and berks with fake tans, Bubbles feels inclusive, convivial and anything but vain.

FOR... SOMETHING PRIVATE

Pani Wina ul. Wilcza 11 The underlying problem with Warsaw’s wine bars is that too many feel like places of business: anonymous

BUBBLES

venues filled with suits striking deals. Then, on the other hand, there’s Pani Wina, a place whose design (olive walls, parquet floors, mustard-tinted seating) maximizes the ambiance of this narrow, little nook.

That the concise range of tap wines is supplemented by an equally welcome choice of renegade cocktails makes it all the better.

FOR... THE VIEW

Panorama Bar Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel) Warsaw’s undergone a growth spurt, yet despite her soaring height and expanding measurements most bars remain anchored firmly to the ground. But who needs a choice of sky high drinking dens when you’ve got the Panorama.

Crowning the top floor of the Marriott, views are such you can practically reach out and shake the Palace of Culture. Decent cocktails, a modern

and moody aesthetic and champion views of the toy town below: what’s not to like?

FOR... THE RIVERSIDE

Winsky ul. Wioślarska 10 One of the strongest openings in recent months (on second thoughts, make that the strongest opening in recent months) presents a menu of itsty, teeny plates, a maverick selection of tap wines, and an interior that’s all restrained velvety opulence. And then there’s the backdrop – nestled on the ground floor of The Tides development, windows face out onto the inky black waters of the river and the sparkling stadium just beyond.

FOR... THE UNEXPECTED

Worek Kości ul. Bagatela 10 It would be a challenge to find a more off-the-wall opening in recent times: lined with skulls of all shape

PA N O R A M A B A R

and size, Worek’s spirit is indeed unique.

When the lights are low and the candles lit, few venues can compete in terms of atmosphere. And then, boom, just as your eyes have adjusted to the darkness find a glam chanteuse entering the scene... or, a half-naked guy in a feathery top hat.

Live entertainment of the more unusual kind is their specialty, and there’s a host of events that cover just that during Valentine’s week.

FOR... A DATE AT THE BAR Bibenda ul. Nowogrodzka 10 Screw the wine, let’s have a pint! For something a little less flouncy, Bibenda ticks boxes on every known front: good, honest food, check; a line-up of crafty beers, yep. More to the point, these come served in a warm ambiance that comes across as casual, inviting and just simply good fun. warsawinsider.pl

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DRINK! Listings bars & pubs 2Koła Sat, as it is, in the abandoned backspaces and brickyards behind Zachodnia station, 2Koła feels like Warsaw’s dirtiest little secret. Still stained and smelling of grease and oil, this former garage is piled high with dented sofas, warehouse palettes and motorcycling detritus. Yet the supremely friendly owners have turned this shadowy lair into a cult bar that’s specifically celebrated for rowdy jam sessions that cover everything from ragtime to rockabilly. ul. Tunelowa 2B 8 Dzień Tygodnia Though the owners remain the same, the unit that once housed Kwadrat couldn’t be more different: no longer a grungey, shadowy space, it’s been rebooted with lots of brash, bursts of color, strings of fairy lights and pops of modern art. What’s not been lost is the amiable sense of gentle chaos: buoyed by a quirky beer selection and fun music policy, this remains one of the friendliest venues in the parish. (D5) ul.

Poznańska 7

The Alchemist The great British tradition of ‘a pint after work’ is gathering steam in PL, thanks in part to places like this. Lively and cosmopolitan, The Alchemist’s broad ranging appeal – not to mention ‘self-service beer wall’ – makes it a winning gathering point for 5 p.m. drinks. (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 3, thealchemist.pl

Bar Gemba Despite occupying the bottom corner of an office development Gemba isn’t short of character: that is, at least, if you measure character by the number of thrift store armchairs and vintage extras.

Furbished with lampshades, luggage and varying odds and ends, it’s the kind of dark, debauched bar that trended amongst artsy Poles in the early 00s. (D5) ul. Wilcza 50/52

Bar Pacyfik From Day 1 there was something that felt special about this place, and that feeling has only swelled with the progress of time. With a retro-kitsch interior delivered straight from the age of Scarface (candy floss pink, ocean blue), it’s a bar that’s

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dark and divey, raw and real. More than just a spot for the cool kids, there’s an inclusive atmosphere that feels positively international. As for drinks, the habanero / salsa infused Bloody Maria is a lifeaffirming gargle that sweeps through the body like an electric current – three sips and you feel like Superman. (C5) ul. Hoża 61 Bar Studio The ascetic, modern décor is intentional – both not to compete with the fine adornment of the original walls and to break through the building’s grandiose airs. It’s hard not to be overawed by the sheer gigantism of the Palace of Culture that looms above. It seamlessly slips from café during the day into its more culturally active persona in the evenings, with concerts, film screenings, plays and political discussions. (C4) Pl. Defilad 1, barstudio.pl

Bar Warszawa De Luxe Leave your visit to the weekend when De Luxe unfurls into something resembling a Polish wedding disco. All the requisite characters appear in this spinning vortex of Boney M: vodka-fuelled Incredible Hulks, groping granddads, svelte students and everyone else in between. Somehow, the formula works without a hitch. There are Poles who’d be mortified by this representation of their country, but the truth is, it’s a rip-roaring time that’s enjoyed by most. (D2) Krakowskie Przedmieście 79 Bazar There’s Krusovice, Bernard and Staropramen on tap, and the Czech slant is lent added meat by a series of evenings held in cahoots with the Czech Cultural Centre – it’s during boozy disco nights the party spills into a shadowy cellar with light retro hints. On ground level its raw and industrial with asphalt colors and overhead pipes. You wouldn’t expect it, but the margaritas are smashing. (F1) ul.

a model tank. During the day there’s a lot of competitive posturing as media types pose by their Macs. But come night, this veneer of cool dissolves into one happy blur. (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, beirut.com.pl Bierhalle Having tapped their first beer eight years back, this microbrewery has morphed into a national phenomenon with outposts across the country. All Warsaw locations have a cut/paste Bavarian atmosphere, hefty wooden fittings and waitresses dressed like mountain frauleins. The drinks themselves are formulaic and nothing special. various locations, bierhalle.pl

Bohemia You have to credit them for trying something different, but by going for a slick, corpo style Bohemia have completely missed ‘the essence of Czechia’. Filled with smooth wood and gleaming glass, it feels more boardroom than beer hall (actually, make that bored room). What goes right? The beer. Poured from a ‘tank’ system designed to maintain your beer’s freshness, it’s every bit as good as drinking straight from the tit of Pilsner’s own brew master. (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, bohemiarestaurant.pl

British Bulldog In terms of aesthetic it’s the most accurate replica of an English pub you’ll find. And they get a further nod for a brilliant covered terrace that’s great in all weather. Not that you’ll find many British expats in here, they’ve been boycotting the place ever since the dismissal of the original British manager.

Judging by the poor standards of beer and food, you might want to follow their example. What could have become an expat legend is, in essence, a big wet plop of disappointment. (D4) ul. Aleje Jerozolimskie 42, bbpub.pl

Jagiellońska 13

Beirut Newly expanded, Beirut has walls dusted with cult album covers, documentary posters and witty graffiti inspired by Banksy. Busy in the day, and absolutely packed at night, order unconventional beers from androgynous, well-inked staff standing behind a sandbag bar decorated with silver hand grenades and

Central Bar The beer (supplied by Bierhalle) is fine, the cocktails are getting better, and the atmosphere is cranked to max: you get the buzzy sense that you’re in the middle of something that’s captured Warsaw’s imagination – the natural focal point of Hala Koszyki, the ever-stretching Central Bar has been one of the biggest hits of 2017. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki)

DRINK! Listings Chłodna 25 After several closures, noise clampdowns and a change in management you’d imagine C25 to be a mere shadow of what it once was. But after a slow start the new owners appear to have rescued this listing vessel and returned it to it best. On the ground floor it’s a place of creaking floorboards and retro armchairs, while the basement gets opened for experimental music nights and improvised orchestras.

(B3) ul. Chłodna 25, klubchlodna25.pl

Czeska Baszta There’s a growing number of Czech pubs in Warsaw, but none do it better than the original. Tucked inside one of the weird turrets that support Poniatowski Bridge, discover divey Czeska immersed in a foggy, yellow-ish glow. Boisterous but extremely friendly, there’s a reason for all the man hugs and back slaps: everyone’s drunk! The cupboard-sized smoking room is where most of the fun happens, and while there’s a good choice of Czech craft beers in the fridge, the real reason to visit are the frothy pints of lager sourced from the owner’s favorite small town breweries. (E4) Tower 22A, Most Poniatowskiego,

you may think of Między Nami as being an antiquated has-been. Not so. Haunted by a mix of media types and local characters, this hip white piece of post-commie Warsaw has an enduring, almost timeless appeal. (D4) ul. Bracka 20, miedzynamicafe.

Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), hardrockcafe.pl

com

Kosmos – Inne Beczki Craft beer, pizza, late nights and DJs! In a nutshell, that’s Kosmos. Attracting the kind of crowd you’d anticipate (trend aware 20/30-somethings), it’s the kind of place where a dull time is rare. (D5) ul.

Poznanska 24

Kraken Rum Bar Named after one of the ocean’s most feared mythical creatures (the scary squid from Pirates of the Caribbean), the woodclad Kraken features a wall of cymbals, heavy furniture and some interesting photography. While there’s some decent bottles of rum, there’s perhaps not enough to justify calling it a rum bar. The place rocks though. (D5) ul. Poznańska 12,

czeskabaszta.pl

fb.com/KrakenRumBar

Elephant Belgian Pub Signposted by a jolly, dancing elephant, this Belgian pub presents its cause the moment you enter – there’s twenty or so taps laid right out in front, and to the left a fridge that’s expected to top out to cover 200 beers. The design is basic – brickwork, beer kegs and varying ephemera of the brewing trade – but it doesn’t need that much more: it’s about the beer, after all. (C1) ul. Freta 19

Legends Over the years Legends has earned a legendary status amongst the expats and Anglophiles. Their cause is helped by touches such as a proper darts board, Sky Sports and a traditional menu that’s as authentically English as the Downing Street cat. Presiding over it all is Graham, a seasoned expat and Everton nut. (C5) ul.

Grizzly Gin Bar More prone than ever to global trends, news that the international gin revival has hit Warsaw comes as no real bombshell.

The style in Grizzly is dark and hip with the design largely limited to moody lighting, some witty murals and a bank of outdated TV sets given an artistic twist; the smoking room is great for accidental meetings with curious characters while the occasional gigs really pack a punch – it’s fast becoming the latest and loudest night in the area. (D5) ul. Wilcza 46 Hard Rock Cafe Full Throttle cocktails, lively staff and a

classic rock soundtrack: the energy of HRC is hard to find fault with. And on the rare occasion there is a lull in the night, use the opportunity to sniff around memorabilia that includes a black leather number once worn by Madonna. (C5) ul.

Emilii Plater 25, legendsbar.pl

Lolek A boisterous pub with a Bavarian, bacchanalian spirit and a legendary reputation. Though this park-centered bar is best-known for its long summer nights, once the cool weather sets in find strangers squishing together indoors on shaky benches in a rough-and-ready interior. With sausages grilling over an open fire, and the constant din of sloshed merriment in the background, you understand why many have a soft spot for this atmospheric institution. (A8) ul. Rokitnicka

Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’ Approximately twenty bars occupy a series of low-budget prefabricated cabins, presenting possibly the highest density of bars in the capital: in summer, it feels like one big street party. Adding to the gentle sense of confusion comes the realization that so many bars look the same – accessed through clattery, barred doors, visitors walk into what can only be described as murk. Klaps, with its dildo beer taps and phallic walls, is probably the most well-known of the lot. (D4) Enter from ul. Nowy Świat 26

Państwo Miasto Is there anything better than sitting in a café, book in hand, while watery winter sunshine pours through the windows? We go to Państwo to do just that, an echoey, cavernous café-bar with a young, lively crowd that’s keen on scholastic events and political causes. Never does it feel too trendy, or too hipster – it’s a place that’s all about atmosphere and friendship. (B1) ul. Andersa 29, panstwomiasto.pl

Paradox Billing themselves as a ‘sci-fi / gamers / role play asylum’ this is a cradle of geeks, nerds and people who collect serial killer memorabilia. Decorated with plastic black crows, a map of Mordor and figurines of goblins, watch as oddly attired suspects engross themselves in ‘for hire’ games with names like Hobbit and Bewoulf. (B1) ul. Anielewicza 2, paradox-cafe.pl

Plan B Plan B is the very essence of dive Warsaw.

Weekends pass by in a raucous blur, with the party spilling out under the colonnades outside – it helps to look like a DJ, but in truth everyone is welcome.

The hangover from this shabby, grubby bar is traumatic. (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), planb.pl

20 (Pole Mokotowskie), lolekpub.pl

Między Nami With 18 years of service under their belt

Rozrywki After a couple of years during which it had started to feel a little like yesterday’s man, warsawinsider.pl

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DRINK! Listings ul. Mazowiecka has had a resurgence and its sense of self restored. Playing a part in this comeback is Rozrywki, a svelte bar with a clientele that values the importance of looking its best. Beyond the immediate appeal of the beauties and wannabes, the cocktails are the chief enticement and given star treatment by a competent staff who’ve been handed a quality set of tools with which to work with. ul. Mazowiecka 6/8 Sheesha Lounge Providing you don’t mind sharing the weekend with some of the most gloriously gorgeous people in the city, then a trip to Sheesha ticks all the boxes. Presenting itself in a whirl of action, the exotic, clubby atmosphere hits fever pitch come the midnight hour. Earlier, soak up the atmosphere with a scented hookah while lounging under eastern lights. (D5) Al. Jerozolimskie 33, sheesha.pl

Stixx It takes a moment to allow the sheer magnitude of Stixx sink in. Having adjusted to the wow factor of the interior – which can best be described as cosmopolitan-industrial – most retreat to the long, all weather deck which in itself is quite something: the aesthetics are such that a cocktail party on an oligarch’s yacht comes to mind. There aren’t many better places for a drink when the roof is rolled back and the stars twinkle above. (A4) Pl. Europejski 4A, tel. 22 340 4040, stixx.pl

Świetlica Long and narrow, dark and murky, it’s as raw as they come: toilets of grubby menace, a smoking room clad in spray art, broken fittings and general gloom.

Basically, it’s everything you demand from the last bar of the night – a place where you can slide into the shadows and watch the world spin around. (E7) ul.

Marszałkowska 17

Ul Cool and current, the globalized menu has distinct Asian accents and is enjoyed in a rough-chic interior of painted brickwork and dangling lights. Come night it feels dark and divey, the kind of place you head to party. And party you will – closing

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at two during the week and four (and beyond) at the weekend, the vibe is hard and energetic and befitting of Poznańska.

(D5) ul. Poznańska 16

Ulubiona Set inside the archway, look for a heavy door next to a dented ashtray seemingly unemptied for the last couple of months.

Shadowy and shabby, you’ll usually find barflies strumming guitars or engrossed in a solo game of chess. An intensely personal experience, it’s a bar that compensates for its lack of glitz with a stoner-style ambiance that soon sweeps over all. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 27

with a swing of the door. It’s just 15 sq/m, but that doesn’t stop drinkers rolling in. “There’s some nights we’ve had 30 people in here,” says the barman, a thought that both terrifies and exhilarates in equal measure. (E4) ul.

Nowy Świat 22

cafés

W Oparach Absurdu Hidden under Persian rugs, velvety drapes and reclaimed antiques, some still refer to it as The Spider Bar in reference to the giant tarantula that once hung from the wall. There’s an air of louche 60s living here, and it gets weirder when bands with names like the Bum Bum Orchestra enter to play trumpets amongst vodka-tipping guests. (F1) ul. Ząbkowska 6,

Bistro Spatif Beautiful people need beautiful places.

Therefore, it’s a surprise that Mokotowska is so wanting when it comes to daytime venues to break from boutique bingeing. Bistro Spatif redresses the balance presenting a narrow room that announces itself in a blast of tropical turquoise, bare brickwork and pristine parquet. Immediately engaging, this compact cafe is everything you need during daylight hours – and once they’ve closed for the evening, head across the courtyard to the larger, livelier Klub Spatif. (E5) ul. Mokotowska 58, fb.com/

oparyabsurdu.pl

bistrospatif

Warszawa Powiśle The prime months for this former ticket booth arrive each summer when the deckchairs outside provide ample opportunity for the city’s young and fashionable to gather in an almost carnival-like atmosphere. Once seen as the hipster Center of Power, it still maintains great popularity with whiskered, tattooed sorts.

Bułkę przez Bibułkę There’s a feminine style to this cafe, what with its cute, girly pastels, petite plant pots and woodsy finishes. But no matter what your gender or age, there’s something immediately sunny and positive about this place. Slow food sandwiches arrive on wooden boards, there’s pretty homemade desserts and a careful choice of wine: falling in love with it is easy. ul. Puławska 24 & ul. Zgoda 3,

(E4) ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B, warszawapowisle. pl

bulkeprzezbibulke.pl

Worek Kości A celebration of both the burlesque and bizarre, Worek Kości is the bar Edgar Allan Poe would create were he raised from the dead. A lively evening hangout with ad-libbed cocktails and an unconventional program of events, you’re as likely to visit during an open-mic night as you are a discussion on Silesian serial killers. This fascination with the morbid and macabre manifests itself by way of a quirky design featuring hundreds of skulls and book shelves lined with the complete works of Stephen King. (E7) ul. Bagatela 10 Żyrafa Sucked inside it’s green/blue glow, visitors all but collide against the bar

Być Może It’s all about artisan bread and breakfast in the industrial looking Być Może. It’s taken the concept of Charlotte (groan, there’s even a communal table), and improved it with excellent breads and a crowd that’s a little less pleased with itself. (E7) ul. Bagatela 14, bycmoze.com.pl Cafe Crystal Despite its somewhat generic look, Cafe Crystal transpires to be anything but.

Specializing in Korean desserts, the ace in the pack here is their choice of bingsu: a light but elaborate concoction of shaved ice and fruity toppings. (D5) ul.

Nowogrodzka 22

DRINK! Listings Café Iluzja Bathed in white, black and shades of grey, it’s an allusion to the black-and-white films of bygone days. The interiors as a whole were designed in a 1950s vibe and the massive armchairs are by far the best part. What more do you expect from a café inside a cult socialist era cinema. (C9) ul. Narbutta 50A, afeiluzja.pl

Charlotte Menora If the air is smug and self-satisfied, there’s a good reason for that: Charlotte have come to embody modern urban Poland: energetic, ambitious and ferociously trend conscious. And to think, some look at it as a mere bakery. Occupying a long space, the latest outpost of this café chain doesn’t overlook the area’s Jewish heritage, with the menu featuring several Jewish delicacies: the bagels are ok. (C4) Pl. Grzybowski 2, bistrocharlotte.pl Coffee Karma Order a smoothie, switch off the phone, open a book – it’s that sort of place.

Concerts and art shows figure in their repertoire, as does rather good coffee. (D6) pl. Zbawiciela 3/5, coffeekarma.eu

Cophi So small you get the idea you could fit Cophi into the palm of your hand, yet no other place in Warsaw is more devoted to sourcing the best coffees in the world. (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60

Czuły Barbarzyńca na Piwnej A Parisian-style bookstore full of steps and wobbles, nooks and alcoves. All agree there’s something special here: maybe it’s the book selection – varied, esoteric and at once compelling. Or maybe it’s the atmosphere, such that browsers anchor themselves on the sofas to lose an afternoon with their nose in a novel while sipping drip coffee. (E3) ul. Piwna 20/26, czuly.pl

FatWhite_CoffeeBar Super small but perfectly packaged, features number coffee sourced from the acclaimed Kofi Brand and a pristine interior decorated with intriguing art that celebrates Muranów’s past. A personal chef by trade (that’s his Scooby Doo van parked outside), the sandwiches made

by Filip are a thousand times superior to the standard coffee shop options. Though

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diminutive in its size, there’s something special going on here, something that’s good for you and positive for Andersa.

(C1) ul. Andersa 6

Kawiarnia Fabryczna Looking for a place in which to shut the world out and stick your nose in a book?

Head to this warm den to sink inside comfy retro chairs and soak up the natural light that pours through the window.

It’s a place to eavesdrop, catch-up on gmail and daydream the morning away.

The flat white is spot-on as well. (E3) ul.

Fabryczna 28/30, kawiarniafabryczna.pl

KluboKawiarnia Towarzyska With an interior modeled by John Strumiłło, this 50s pavilion has an ascetic design defined by polar white interiors.

Contrast is provided downstairs, with deep magenta walls and retro armchairs.

Concerts, screenings and art happenings have made it into something of local cultural mainstay. ul. Zwycięzców 49, klubokawiarnia.net

Kos Kos is a place intent on stitching the neighborhood together. That much is made clear by a diverse events calendar that features a panoply of activities: yoga courses to weekend brunches via the occasional kid’s improvisation class. As commendable as these social actions are, it’s the basics that Kos do so well.

Drenched in natural sunlight, perch on the windowsill and enjoy swift wifi, awardwinning coffee and a menu of homemade snacks and bits. (D4) ul. Chmielna 9A Krem A chic city center hangout with all the swanky, urban elegance of the 8th arrondisement. Opened by the same team behind Monsieur Leon, find their latest little baby decorated with monochrome tiles, marble-topped tables, and retro-styled mirrors. A place of hip sophistication and laid-back vibe, the menu is built around French cheeseboards, raclette and super sexy baguettes.

(D6) ul. Śniadeckich 18

Matcha Tea House Renting the space once occupied by the legendary Bastylia, Matcha certainly have

a big pair of boots to fill – but fill them they might. Beyond a comprehensive choice of matcha, find also an array desserts that use this green Japanese tea as their cornerstone ingredient. (D6) ul.

Mokotowska 17

Ministerstwo Kawy Sourcing their coffee from Koppi, an internationally acclaimed Swedish roasting house, the ministry takes no short cuts in their pursuit of excellence.

Utilizing Ethiopian, Costa Rican and Brazilian arabicas – some exclusive to Poland – barista Wojciech Rzytki has earned a reputation across Poland for his expert hand. Rave reviews are standard and appropriate. (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 27, ministerstwokawy.pl

MiTo Café, gallery, bookstore. Of course, we’ve seen that concept before, just not done in this style. Stark white backgrounds are offset by edgy art, lending the place a Tate Modern feel, something accentuated by the earnest fashion students who gather through the day. And there’s the toilet, a futuristic affair with piped music and a mirrored wall. (D6) ul. Waryńskiego 28, mito. art.pl

Monsieur Leon Found resting on the corner of a quiet residential street, Monsieur Leon is surely one of Mokotów’s best kept secrets. Here, simplicity is the name of the game, with a brief blackboard menu that involves cheese boards, salads and a hefty croque monsieur. (E8) ul. Sulkiewicza 5 Niezłe Ziółko Café & Deli A shrine to pure and healthy eating, this friendly café doesn’t just brew a great coffee, but bakes its own bread and produces its own yogurt. Sit in the loft to look down on shoppers scurrying to Mokotowska, and on the way out, check out ‘Grandma’s Cupboard’ in the corner: jams, spreads and olive oils are there to buy for home. (D5) ul. Krucza 17 Odette Tearoom Taking its lead from their original dessert stop on ul. Górskiego, the sister venue peddles glorious cakes and pralines as well as a hand-picked selection of boutique teas served in a fragrant and elegant atmosphere. (C4) ul. Twarda 4, odette.pl

DRINK! Listings Relaks Expertly prepared, right down to the foam art, the baristas here use the finest imported machines and work only with fair trade, ‘specialty’ coffee. If you have time, the drip coffees are more than worth the wait. The crowded interiors supply a retro accent, and are enjoyed by a fashion aware, laptop-touting crowd.

(E9) ul. Puławska 48

Resort Originally known for their OTT recycling motif (shopping trolleys re-purposed as seats, street signs as tables...), Resort have pared the design down replacing the old junk with a cool, caramel-colored look high on wood, plants and discreet retro accents. Craft beer, eco-friendly bites, clever cocktails and quality coffee contribute to their popularity, as does a busy events program that’s big on comedy and open mic nights. (C2) ul. Bielańska 1 Same Fusy Suffused in a candle-lit glow, this 15th century cellar unwinds to reveal a charming brick room suspended in time. Filled with gnarled wooden oddities and tree stump tables, the sweet aroma of fragrant teas helps amplify the fairy tale mood. ul.

Nowomiejska 10

Stor Cut into a ground floor corner Stor has climbed the rankings to become known as one of the best coffees within the city limits. All plants and clatter, it’s come to be considered almost an ambassador of cool Powiśle style. (E3) ul. Tamka 33

clubs Klub Spatif A maze-like pre-war tenement has been given a new shot at life courtesy of Spatif, a late night bar / club a few steps removed from a giant house party. Music is varied, with different nights offering Britpop, soul, jazz, etc., with the diverse crowd spread across a series of chambers decorated with vintage fittings. Hidden down in the basement, the smoking room feels like crashing into someone’s living room.

Cool but never too far up its own arse, it’s become one of the best late nights you’ll find. Al. Ujazdowskie 45

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Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2018

Luztro Dark and generally filthy, Warsaw’s most (in)famous club only gets going around about three. As the hours click towards daybreak, the scenes of depravity are like something from Sodom and Gomorrah.

Enjoyed by zombies that quite definitely don’t have to be up for work anytime in the next 48 hrs, it’s not just the full-on techno that will leave the brain rattling – you’ll know if it’s your scene. (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, luztro.pl

N58 The latest entry on Warsaw’s club circuit have issued a manifesto promising deep vocal house, r’n’b, mash-ups and theme nights centered around Afro Beats / trap / twerk and hip hop. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58 No Comment Found in one of the towers that prop up Most Poniatowskiego, a ‘sense of unknown’ manifests itself inside this weekend’s only club, a bi-level area whose small size adds to the air of mystery and exclusivity. Away from the prying eyes of Joe Public, find glittery, local celebs getting down and naughty.

bar/club has reinvented the whole concept of going out in Warsaw. A truly world-class venture, the open-air deck on the 32nd floor offers striking views of the cityscape, first rate cocktails and an international rotation of DJs. No other club nails the champagne lifestyle with quite the same panache. (C4) ul. Twarda 18, theview.pl

cocktails 6 Cocktails If 6 Cocktails has the feeling of hanging around someone’s flat that’s because, actually, you are. This posh Mokotowska apartment has been re-adapted as an exclusive bar frequented by leggy models and society figures: the parties are nuts!

Unmarked from street level, to enjoy the inventive cocktails message them on FB and await your invite. (E5) ul. Mokotowska 57, fb.com/6cocktails/

(F4) Al. 3 Maja 16/18A, Most Poniatowskiego

Ritual Looking dark and sensual, this two-level space unwraps before you like some elaborate adventure. Candles flicker, atmosphere crackles – moving towards the bar, slinky, sultry club creatures of unfathomable beauty prowl past with drinks poised in hand. Heating up gradually as the night progresses, Ritual moves organically from being a voluptuous bar to a spicy club as the night ebbs towards its heady conclusion. (D3) ul. Mazowiecka

Podwale Bar & Books Though it doesn’t have toR be Twinter C to enjoy Podwale Bar & Books, P T M helps. Seen through frosted, it definitely C W foggy windows it’s a venue that reveals ≈ W itself asC≈a place of dark, delicious colors C rarefied C air. Occupying the kind of and ≈ T charismatic gatehouse you’d read about ≈ P E position yourself in front of the in Dickens, ≈ L S upstairs fireplace for a celebratory cigar and a glass P B Bof something tall and lovely: the cocktails are in a class of their own and specifically customized for the season. (D2)

12, ritualwarsaw.com

ul. Wąski Dunaj 20, barandbooks.pl

Smolna 38 One of the most secretive clubs there is: operating a strict no-pictures policy, being caught taking a selfie is a crime punished by expulsion – and how good is that! Attracting a hardcore crowd, its a place of real sounds: forget the joke DJs most clubs settle for, Smolna’s agenda has thus far included the likes of Simian Mobile Disco and Ellen Allien. (E4) ul.

Bar Wieczorny The cocktails are serious here, with top quality spirits (Vestal, Baczewski, Woodford Reserve) used with equally big name mixes (Fentimans, Big Tom, etc.).

Further, you’ll find it’s the right products V O L n Y a P in ithe right hands – the staff really www.barandbooks.pl know their game. (D8) ul. Wiśniowa 46,

Smolna 38

Bardziej It’s thanks to places like Bardziej that Oleandrów is becoming one of the most talked about streets around. This split-

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DRINK! Listings level bar does a good job of capturing the essence of the area, with inventive ‘author’s cocktails’ matched against a warm, dimly lit interior that’s heaving with cogs, metal hooks and enigmatic dials.

The later it gets, the better it is. (E5) ul.

Kiti Bar A raucous bar drawn up by the owners of the nearby Kita Koguta. Dominated by a tall Polynesian totem, this ray of sunshine gets noted for extravagant cocktails served by game staff in zany shirts. (D5)

Marszałkowska 21/25 (enter from Oleandrów)

ul. Krucza 6/14

Biała Expect highly individualized cocktails, a thoughtful menu and a glam, vamped up crowd every bit as beautiful as the place itself: set in a gloriously white inter-war villa, this is a place that oozes with sex appeal. There aren’t many finer outdoor gardens. ul. Francuska 2

Lazy Dog While Lazy Dog isn’t exactly new, it does feel like it’s turned over a new leaf – what was a good cocktail bar, it seems, has grown to become a very good one.

Seeking inspiration from some of the world’s wackiest artworks, the cocktails aren’t just beautiful to look at, but damn good to drink... If there’s a highlight, that’s the ‘Fight Between A Tiger & A Buffalo’, a spicy, tropical creation complete enveloped in a thick billowing mist. (D5) ul.

Charlie Arguably the best and boldest opening of the year, Charlie presents thrilling cocktails inside an interior that wouldn’t be amiss in Manhattan: there’s even a fountain! Being rich and pretty is almost a compulsory criteria. (E6) ul. Mokotowska 39 Column Bar Just the look of Column Bar sweeps you off your feet; there’s something breathlessly classy about it, like you’ve just entered Gatsby’s ballroom. You want to order a pyramid of champagne and dance on their piano. Behave, and order a cocktail instead. For a taste of the classics, the Column Bar is pretty peerless.

(D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44 (Hotel Bristol)

Cosmo Bar Though they’ve made a big noise about embracing a variety of initiatives aimed at maximizing sustainability, Tomek Roehr’s Cosmo Bar project, is more than a one-trick pony. Beyond the novelty factor is a scrupulous attention to detail that manifests itself in impeccable cocktails based around Polish produce – rowanberry, sea buckthorn and suchlike. Occupying a plush, little corner of the Cosmopolitan Tower, this is luxury with a conscience. ul.

Twarda 4, cosmobar.pl

Kita Koguta The staff aren’t afraid to get imaginative, and that includes serving cocktails in smoking coconut husks. Not all the experiments go as planned: on our last visit, a basic Bloody Mary was turned into an alcoholic carrot flavored fizz. (E5) ul.

Krucza 6/14

Krucza 16/22, lazy-dog.pl

The Roots Cluttered with shiny props and pieces rescued from the early days of cocktail making, The Roots could pass for a Victorian era curiosity shop. Looking past the eccentricities that comprise the interior, it’s become famous on account of irresistible drinks mixed and muddled by dapper experts that aren’t so much barmen as they are craftsmen. (C2) ul.

Wierzbowa 11

Weles A swing of the door takes visitors plunging down a blacked-out stairwell and into a basement that emerges from the darkness like a decadent Tsarist relic: glinting chandeliers glimmer over deep leather sofas, their subtle light casting a glow over an immaculate clientele. Befitting the venue, the artisanal cocktails are a work of elaborate craftsmanship, and incorporate everything from elite liquors to strips of bacon and flower petals. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 11, welesbar.pl

Woda Ognista Woda Ognista evokes the jazzy air of a Chicago, Prohibition era speakeasy with a seriously stylish interior that includes a colossal collection of vintage cocktail shakers that glint behind glass. The drinks themselves, rattled up by dapper gents in braces and flat caps, are split between house creations and reprised classics from a bygone era. Some are more successful than others, and it’s a warsawinsider.pl

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DRINK! Listings credit to the staff that they’re willing to take comments on board and adapt their precious recipes to suit fussy tastes. (E5) ul. Wilcza 8, wodaognista.com

rest of Warsaw. Taking care of the craft beer angle is this newbie, a bi-level bar with warm tones and 16 taps of beery goodness. ul. Andersa 23, fb.com/craftbeermuranow

Zorza Slotted inside what was once Café 6/12, Zorza embellishes the venue’s ascetic PRL style with licks of art deco: it’s an unlikely marriage that manages to work.

Do your pecking, picking, sipping and supping on an outdoor terrace set-up that encourages mingling and interaction.

(D4) ul. Żurawia 6/12, zorzabistro.pl

craft beer

Cuda Na Kiju Where it all began. Summer catches Warsaw’s original tap bar at its best, with the courtyard of the former Communist Party HQ now home to an entirely different kind of party: on occasions find food trucks and film screenings, and all other times just a massive crowd getting sloshed on 15 types of tap beer. But even outside the sweaty months Cuda is worth the visit: drink inside a modern, glass cube that’s refreshing contemporary. (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, cudanakiju.pl

Artezan Pub Browar Artezan’s flagship pub is a compulsory visit for all beer aficionados.

The beer is the magnetic force with eight taps blasting out pacesetter tipples from this brewery’s portfolio. The Pacific is the Insider’s all-time favorite. (D4) ul. Moniuszki 1A, fb.com/artezan.pub

Chmielarnia A subterranean multi-tap found in the depths of the fishing institute. Artisan beers rule the roost here (there’s 15 taps and stacks more beer in the fridge), a point underlined by a glass coffin of mainstream macro lager. While the bar gets loud and rackety, sweaty and sticky, that’s balanced out by a rotating beer offer that’s moderately priced plus a friendly, earnest audience that’s all beer geeks and know-it-alls. (B5) ul. Twarda 42 (basement level), chmielarnia.waw.pl

Chmielarnia Marszałkowska With Warsaw’s tap bars all falling over each other to stock the latest tap beers, your options are frequently similar from bar to bar – which is when a good fridge becomes important. Not only can you actually see into Chmielarnia’s, you’ll find it housing the most exciting brews trending around the globe: from the edgy Bermondsey breweries to the Scandinavian giants. Broaden your horizons! (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16, chmielarnia.waw.pl

Craft Beer Muranów Though still an area thick with beretwearing, dachshund-walking oldies, Muranów is fast catching up with the

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Cześć It started as a café, but now Cześć is better known as being at the forefront of the new generation of ‘quali-tap’ bars – small little places with six or so beers on tap. The two owners, Piotrek and Kuba, take their beer seriously, so do expect plenty of new finds as well as traditional favorites from stalwarts like the Artezan and Pinta breweries. The laidback, neighborhood atmosphere is making it increasingly popular with a tight-knit circle of ex-pat drinkers. (C3) ul. Grzybowska 2 (through the side passage), czesc.waw.pl

Drugie Dno To plug into the pounding heart of Warsaw’s craft beer scene, look no further than Nowogrodzka. Joining the ranks of the street’s multi-tap bars is Drugie Dno, a three-level space that’s been themed to evoke the look of a disused power station.

Sporting rugged brickwork and a scuffed style, the industrialized look has been amped up to the max through the use of steel girders, vintage voltage meters and toilets disguised as elevator shafts. (D5) ul.

Nowogrodzka 4

Goraczka Zlota Get down with the locals at Gorączka Złota, a steamy pub with a rowdy atmosphere. Touting the dimensions of a cabin boy’s quarters, this pungent, pokey den is one of the oldest bars in town.

Despite carrying many epic beers from Poland’s rebel brewers, there’s nothing faddish about GZ and it’s this sense of normalcy that lends it its enduring appeal.

(D5) ul. Wilcza 29, goraczka-zlota.com.pl

Jabeerwocky Steeped in multinational drunken babble, the super sociable Jabbers is famed for its innovative beer selection and convivial atmosphere. Mark it down as an absolute must-visit, especially if you’re a fan of stout and cider. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 12, taproom.pl

Kufle i Kapsle All levels of drinkers are catered for in this raw-looking space, from those ready to pay nosebleed prices for beers with spaceships on the label, right the way down to novices taking their first baby steps in the world of craft booze. Interiors are balanced with the pre-war heritage of the place, and are thick with noise, clamor and the spell of spillage. Unisex toilets, meaning there’s usually one idiotka putting a spanner in the queue code. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 25, kufleikapsle.pl

Małe Piwo Oleandrów’s reawakening began on this very spot! Opened six years back, MP preempted the craft beer trend to become one of Warsaw’s first places for something better than a pint of Piss-kie.

Looking wholly unfinished and fashionably distressed, it’s got that New York dive vibe down to a tee – you imagine The Strokes rolling in right after band practice.

(D7) ul. Oleandrów 4

Maryensztadt Craft Beer It’s a mixed crowd of locals and tourists that gather in Maryensztadt, a large bar whose 12 taps showcase the highs (and occasional lows) produced by the brewery that gives this pub its name. Set across a series of cavernous chambers inside an attractive Old Town property, its not just beer buffs that it appeals to: sourcing their ingredients from small-scale farmsteads, the kitchen wing of Maryensztadt does a convincing job of representing the tastier side of regional Poland. (D1) ul.

Szeroki Dunaj 11

Piw Paw We don’t like: the sweaty toilet, strange smells nor the scrum at the bar. We do like: the 24hr opening hours, humongous fridge and 50+ taps. Seen in the light it’s a little depressing, so visit at night when Parkingowa takes on the look of an end-

DRINK! Listings

Same Krafty Occupying two narrow, rugged rooms, Same Krafty have rescued Old Town from big beer brands peddling piss. Offering artisan alternatives, this intimate bar has become a magnet for those looking to explore the more subversive side of Polish brewing. (D1) ul. Nowomiejska 10,

Chwila Entered under a red, cabaret-style awning, Chwila is a reject factory space turned good. Furry cushions, patchwork quilts and student art vie for attention alongside iron girders and industrial leftovers inside what is becoming known as one of the top alternative music venues this side of the river. The toilet alone, papered with trillions of cool posters and magazine covers, is a reason to linger. (B3)

samekrafty.pl

ul. Ogrodowa 31/35

Spiskowcy Rozkoszy The ground floor is an intimate space with lots of yet-to-be-famous beers and junky, antique furniture that reminds of the Boho hangouts in Kraków. But what was a packed, little bar is now a packed, big bar with the opening of the basement: find a labyrinth of rooms and psychedelic toilets with pulsating lights – you soon wonder who spiked your drink. And oh, the drinks.

Expect IPA and APA beers served from the six taps. (D5) ul. Żurawia 47/49, spiskowcy.pl

Hydrozagadka Set out in the wildlands of Praga, consider Hydrozagadka as the heart of unforced cool. Known for its alternative music scene, the low-ceiling and tight, crowded nature of it generate an electrifying atmosphere where the audience and band become one. Walking a fine line between industrial and straight out decrepit, the atmosphere is second to none: drinks flow, strangers meet and music smashes out: you can feel something special happening here. ul. 11 Listopada 22,

for gentlemen

hydrozagadka.waw.pl

of-term street party. (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34 (enter from ul. Parkingowa), piwpaw.pl

Playhouse Housed in a former subterranean bomb shelter, the talk now is of bombshells: namely the 57 stunners they’ve got listed on their books. Inspired by high class joints in London and Vegas, it’s a refined choice with a no-pressure atmosphere and door staff that don’t look like they’re going to kick your head in. (B3) Al. Solidarności 82A, playhouse.pl

Pyk i Łyk Thundering through a flimsy door, customers are met by a tiny, divey area that’s devoid of furnishings aside from shelves of vodka and a bar that’s been painted to depict dripping blood. Yikes!

Decorated with bizarre montages of hard drinking rockers, once visitors settle into their vodka rhythm, it reveals itself as a bar of greatness. “No wi-fi,” shouts one sign, “talk to each other and get drunk.”

It’s that kind of place. (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 26

vodka Dom Wódki Those expecting Dom Wódki to be a standard mucky shot bar are in for a surprise.

Sparkling with over 250 artisanal vodkas, find them incorporated into inspirational drinks mixed by Tomasz Małek, a world champion flair bartender. More than just show, the tastes are incredible. (C2) ul.

Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl

live music 12on14 Jazz Club Warsaw has a rich tradition of jazz, so you have to sometimes wonder, just where the hell are all the jazz bars? In 12on14’s case, down a courtyard and through a side entrance. Dark, smart and sophisticated, here’s a place that’s fitted out with framed portraits of sax tooting masters as a well-stocked bar area decorated with quotes from jazz legends.

Open from Tuesday till Saturday, evenings see local and international musicians take to the stage. (D6) ul. Noakowskiego 16, 12on14club.com

Meta Chains of old bog paper, Karol Gott album covers and other Communist keepsakes litter this shot bar. But for a real blast to the past, visit their Parkingowa venue for a full-on, Polski-style retro disco. It’s hilarious. ul. Mazowiecka 11 / Foksal 21 /

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Parkingowa 5

Pijalnia Havoc reigns in Pijalnia, and watching all the tears and tiffs on a Friday night is something of a spectator sport. Pickles and vodka are the essential order, while reading matter is supplied via commieera sports reports that are plastered to the wall. many locations warsawinsider.pl

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DRINK! Listings wine bars Ale Wino!

At first you think you’re walking into a car park. And then, it hits you – a beautiful inner-city sanctum with wooden decking, a slanted sail shielding the sun, and bespoke, funky chairs from the esteemed Studio Rygalik. You want to dwell here for a bit longer than planned: and there’s no harm in doing so. One of the Insider’s favorite wine bars, Ale Wino’s food is also top-notch (E5) ul. Mokotowska 48, alewino.pl Bubbles Despite sounding like a 90s small town nightclub, Bubbles is in fact a worthy place of note: a small, warm venue with a slow food menu and a design that incorporates lots of upturned crates and dusty bottles. Champagne is the main draw here, with many labels that are exclusive to Poland. Some come with terrifying prices, but on the whole the price points are widely accessible: wine from zł. 10 and a flute of champers from zł. 29.

(D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, bubbles.com.pl

Dekant Wine Bar Set inside an attractive open space, the opening of Dekant is a further indication of Powiśle’s shift from hipster epicenter to upscale playground (Robert Lewandowski has been spotted here!). The list comprises over 400 wines from the most prestigious producers in the world, right the way down to tiny, little vineyards you’ve probably never heard of. If the sun is out, aim for a place on their back terrace. (E3) ul. Zajęcza 15, dekant.com.pl Dyletanci Often filled to capacity with crisp, modern citizens that radiate confidence, join them on green banquettes illuminated with Tom Dixon lamps. The wine list is fitting of the A-list, and aside from exceptional international choices, also includes interesting wines from the proprietor’s own label – a frankly superb Polish brand called Dom Bliskowice. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44, dyletanci.pl Hoża You’ll probably know Hoża as the home of steak. But what is meat without wine? complementing the Argentine-inspired cooking is a wine list particularly dense with reds. (D5) ul. Hoża 25a, hoza.warszawa.pl

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Kieliszki Na Hożej Already celebrated for their operation on Próżna, this latest branch continues in much the same vein: classy interiors, a prime location on one of Warsaw’s few surviving pre-war streets and a casual bistro vibe matched up against a glorious Italian influenced wine list. The concise food menu connects local Polish to classic French and adds an interesting modern twist. ul. Hoża 41, kieliszkinahozej.pl Mielżyński Wine Bar Robert Mielżyński, a Canadian-born oenologist, awakened Warsaw’s love affair with the grape when he launched Mielżyński in 2004, and it continues to serve as the accepted benchmark to which all wine bars aspire. Their cause is amply boosted by a fine selection of bites to accompany the superlative wine offer. Find it in a pared down warehouse that emanates casual city cool. (A1) ul.

Burakowska 5/7, mielzynski.pl

Mielzynski Wine Bar After three years in the pipeline Warsaw’s second outpost of Mielżyński is everything you’d expect: the concise menu is never too complex while the exciting wine choice presents over 500 labels. This vibrant warehouse-style space promises much. (G9) ul. Czerska 12, mielzynski.pl Nowina The striking interior that catches the eye from across the street – restored pre-war tiling, glinting surfaces, a world map rendered from corks and an engaging reddish glow all do their bit to lend Nowina the kind of atmosphere that’s missing in most local wine bars. Add to that an exciting international menu and a selection of over 400 wines and you have an absolute winner. ul. Nowogrodzka 4

Rusiko Wine Bar Designed to act as a casual extension of the neighboring Rusiko restaurant, this wine bar showcases Warsaw’s biggest selection of Georgian wine inside an interior that feels intimate, jazzy and highly atmospheric. Elaborate rugs, deep rouge in color, hang from tall sapphire walls, while impossibly high ceilings do much to generate a swirl of soft, muffled sound. A place of good mood and organic hospitality, it’s no surprise to learn that the bitey menu is an ample reflection of Rusiko’s award-winning reputation. (E5) Al. Ujazdowskie 22, fb.com/winebarrusiko

WinKolekcja The selection of New World wines is exceptional, though classicists are also catered for via an extensive choice of Spanish, French and Italian wines. Their highly recommended restaurant provides further reason to linger inside a design that has the routine look of a club class lounge. (E10) ul. Olkuska 7, winkolekcja.pl Winosfera Once a pre-war cinema, now a stunning wine bar / store with one of the most impressive collections in Poland: an expense account comes in handy. Equally notable is the ambitious fine dining menu of Jakub Adamczyk. (B3) ul. Chłodna 31 Winsky Perched on the left bank of the Wisla, find Winsky on the ground floor of one of the new super-lux blocks that sprung up over summer. Looking deep and plush with its wood / velvet finishes, perks include 30 or so wines available on tap and by the glass, an array of tapas-style plates with a Polish twist and grandstand views of the glimmering national stadium opposite. Already, you sense this is a place born for big things. (F4) ul. Wioślarska 10

Pani Wina Tucked down an upcoming stretch of Wilcza, the interiors play-up to the pre-war heritage of the building with the elegantly demure decorations anchored around mustard-colored banquettes, olive green walls and immaculate parquet flooring: smart, soothing and even pretty sexy. In rhythm with the times, it’s the first wine bar in Warsaw where bushy beards, tatts and hip, casual fashion are the dominant sight. (E5) ul. Wilcza 11, fb.com/

Żurawina Lacking in intimacy, this large white room gets criticized for its jarring artwork and staffing blips – in the world of wine it’s important the customer can connect to the staff: here, we felt like we were joining the SS. But both food and wine score highly, and they’ve earned a staunchly loyal following that includes high flying types and Paris Hilton wannabes that carry yappy dogs in their bag. (D5) ul.

PaniWina

Żurawia 32/34, zurawina.eu

DO!

PINBALL WIZARD Go for glory at Warsaw’s Pinball Museum...

PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

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sk me to think of pinball and I think of Happy Days; of Ralph and Richie wearing tight bowling shirts and cheering The Fonz as he wows them with his skills. What I don’t think of is a half-derelict back street behind a disintegrating train station... in Warsaw. And that’s not even a fraction of the story. Set inside a line of postindustrial lock-ups and warehouses, the Pinball Museum’s >>

warsawinsider.pl

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Do! Review Our annual Polish Pinball Open attracts competitors from Hungary, Romania and even Sweden

immediate neighbors include the local chapter house of the Steel Roses Motorcycle Club and various operations trading in car parts.

Not that any of this matters, for such is the pull of this little jewel that people travel from far and wide: “Our annual Polish Pinball Open,” says co-owner Bartek Radomyski, “attracts competitors from Hungary, Romania and even Sweden.” Stepping through a clanking metal door, what greets them is a kaleidoscope of retro noise and color: thirty plus machines blinking and

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bleeping in riotous discord. It’s dazzling.

A collector first and foremost (“I’m really not that brilliant as a player,” shrugs Bartek a trifle modestly), the Pinball Museum originated after his hobby became a hopeless addiction. “I always warn people,” he laughs, “that if they buy one machine then it won’t be their last.” Having accrued his first contraption five years back, he soon found his apartment stacking up with more (“The bedroom, the kitchen, everywhere but the bathroom!”). Additional space was needed, so together with Paweł

Nowak, his friend and fellow pinball enthusiast, a warehouse was found to store the objects of their obsession.

From there, the idea of a museum was born.

Not that this is your typical museum: while it’s filled with relics in the truest sense of the word (the eldest being Brillant Torero produced in Germany in 1938), the overwhelming majority are there to be enjoyed to the max – for an admission fee of zł. 30, visitors can spend as much time as they have testing their talents on machines such as Dirty Harry, Buck Rogers and Dr. Dude & His Excellent X-Ray (“If you’re ready to get hip,” reads the display, “turn on, power up and drop into my kinetic clinic!”).

Dating from the pre-digital age, mostly from the 80s and 90s, these are beautiful-looking things that glow like treasure. “The new machines don’t interest me,” says Bartek, “for me it’s the detail on these older ones that I really fell in love with.” Looking closer at the minutiae you can appreciate what he means. And supplementing their number are a feast of arcade games such as Pac-Man and Mortal Kombat. “These were my first passion,” admits Bartek, “growing up in 90s Warsaw you could either sit at home playing on your Commodore 64 or head to the arcades in Dworzec Centralna – there wasn’t a comparison. Even the atmosphere was amazing. There were always older guys hanging around trying to steal coins from the machines, it all felt like such an adventure!” If that sense of lurking danger hasn’t been replicated in this remarkable museum, then the excitement certainly has.

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

Pinball Station ul. Kolejowa 8A, pinballstation.pl

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DO! Museums

M U S E U M O F WA R S AW

Car Museum From Lech Wałesa’s Volvo to Gomułka’s ZIS limo, from German wartime armor to a pretty-in-pink Buick Skylark: incredible in its peculiarity, the random layout, oily smells and cobwebbed corners only add to the sense of treading somewhere special. ul. Warszawska 21 (Otrębusy), muzuem-motorzyacji.com.pl

Copernicus Science Centre Featuring hundreds of interactive exhibitions, it’s a place that allows young and old alike to blast objects into space, experience an earthquake or steer exploratory robots. ul.

Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, kopernik.org.pl

CSW Situated in a baroque-style castle the center hosts artists from all over the world.

The on-site bookshop is of particular interest for artists and intellectuals. ul. Jazdów 2, csw.art.pl

Dom Spotkań z Historią The History Meeting House wins points for small but frequently excellent exhibitions that cover topics such as ‘rebuilding Warsaw’ and

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‘Socialist Realist architecture.’

Z AC H Ę TA

ul. Okólnik 1, chopin.museum

ul. Karowa 20, dsh.waw.pl

Ethnographic Museum Considerably revamped to meet the demands and attention-spans of the 21st century sightseer, the Ethnographic Museum is a visual pleasure that showcases colorful costumes, fabrics and ceramics from Poland and beyond. ul. Kredytowa 1,

The Heritage Interpretation Center This small venue tells the complex story of Old Town’s reconstruction: if the first section about Warsaw’s physical elimination is poignant, then the others do a fabulous job of sharing the optimism and alacrity that followed. ul.

Brzozowa 11-13, mhw.pl

ethnomuseum.pl

Fotoplastikon Thought to date from 1905, Warsaw’s Fotoplastikon generates 3D perspectives from a set of 2D images: visitors peer through an eyepiece and are taken on a trip around the world while music from days yore parps away in the background. Al. Jerozolimskie 51, fotoplastikonwarszawski.pl

Fryderyk Chopin Museum The 18th century Ostrogski Palace is the perfect foil for the ultra-modern content of this multi-sensory space. The personal items are enchanting, but the big victory here is the museum’s ability to suck visitors right back into the times of Chopin through the use of interactive sights and sounds.

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2018

Invisible Exhibition Head to the Invisible Exhibition to learn first-hand the challenges faced by the blind.

This includes everything from crossing the road to ordering a drink in a bar. Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, niewidzialna.pl

Jewish Historical Institute Officially opened in 1947 the Jewish Historical Institute was created to serve as an archive of Jewish culture in Warsaw. It contains artwork, historical artifacts and important documents from the city’s rich Jewish past. ul.

spring of 1940. Beyond its quite staggering architectural merit, the museum has done a stunning job of collecting and presenting artifacts relating to the slaughter. ul. Jeziorańskiego 4, muzeumkatynskie.pl

Marie Skłodowska-Curie Musuem Reopened after a significant re-haul, this museum celebrates the groundbreaking scientist that discovered polonium. The Curie-osities include lab equipment, her trademark black dress and even her nail file. ul. Freta 16, en.muzeum-msc.pl

Museum of Communist Life Lovingly assembled by its young owner, the museum is split into a few different sections: one devoted to state and subversive literature, and another that recreates an empty store typical of the times. Our highlight, though, is the recreation of a commie-era apartment. ul.

Tłomackie 3/5, jhi.pl

Glucha (opposite Soho Factory), adventurewarsaw.com

Katyń Museum This museum commemorates the murder of 21,000 Polish officers by the Soviets in the

Museum of Praga The Praga Museum tells the story of the area with such charm and simplicity that it

DO! Museums

WA R S AW R I S I N G M U S E U M

manages to leave an unlikely impression that’s as punchy as that of the big institutions.

Star billing goes to a restored Jewish prayer room and the Flying Carpet: an exhibit festooned with various trinkets and treasures once available for purchase from local pavement traders. ul. Targowa 50/52, muzeumwarszawy.pl

Museum of Warsaw Over 8,000 objects detail the story of Warsaw, and these include peculiar souvenirs, scale models, old postcards and recovered works of art.

Cohesive and comprehensive yet never too overwhelming, the trail climaxes with vertiginous views of the Rynek below. Unmissable.

ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org

Palmiry National Memorial Museum An excellent multimedia exhibition set next to a cemetery holding the graves of 1,700 Poles executed in the first years of Nazi occupation.

The museum tells their forgotten story as well as that of the siege and subsequent occupation of Warsaw. Palmiry, palmiry.mhw.pl

each covers a different stage of local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day. Highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec synagogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical inter-war Jewish Warsaw street. Named the European Museum of the Year in 2016. ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl

The Royal Castle in Warsaw Highlights include the lavishly restored 18th century royal apartments with 22 paintings

by Canaletto, the Senators’ Chamber in which the Constitution of the Third of May was signed, the biggest collection of oriental rugs in Europe and two remarkable Rembrandt paintings. Pl. Zamkowy 4, zamek-krolewski.pl

National Museum Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars. Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.

Pawiak What was once a Tsarist prison assumed a doubly sinister function under the Nazis. Some 100,000 Polish political prisoners were held here, 37,000 of which were executed on-site. Split in two sections, cells are found on one side, while on the other the full story of the invasion and occupation. ul. Dzielna

art.pl

24/26

4/6, bursztynek.co

The Neon Museum Filled with salvaged signage,

Polin Composed of eight galleries,

Warsaw Rising Museum Cope with the crowds to

Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42, muzeumwarszawy.pl

this museum houses several dozen neons that once lit up the capital. The emphasis is firmly on the PRL era, a time when the nation’s best graphic designers were nutty for neon.

POLIN

The Warsaw Amber Museum Part of Bursztynek, a dedicated amber shop, has been turned into a curious museum detailing the history of amber. Rynek Starego Miasta

discover the definitive story of the 1944 Uprising. Exhibits range from a full-size replica of a Liberator plane, to a sewer beneath the cinema screen and a slice of bread preserved from 1944. And don’t miss the ‘City of Ruins’, a five minute 3D film which takes you on an aerial journey over devastated Warsaw. ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl Wola Museum What was once a dreary old place has been rebooted as a smart community-minded museum and one of the most forward-thinking institutions in the capital. Bringing the wider area of Wola alive, find engaging content that’s creatively presented: posters, family memorabilia and various media relating to the area. ul. Srebrna 12, mhw.pl Zachęta National Art Gallery Regarded as one of Poland’s most prestigious galleries, the Zachęta has a busy program of temporary exhibitions that frequently showcase some of the biggest names in domestic and international contemporary art. Pl. Małachowskiego 3, zacheta.art.pl warsawinsider.pl

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DO! Education listings preschools American School of Warsaw American School of Warsaw provides a rich, meaningful and balanced educational experience through age-appropriate activities to students aged 3 to 5. For further information and/or to visit our school, contact:admissions@aswarsaw.org or 22 ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel.

22 702 85 00, aswarsaw.org 702

85 00.

each class starting from Year 1. ul. Hlonda 12, bsww.pl

Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, canadian-school.pl

The British School Early Years Centre The British School provides EYFS classes from Pre-nursery (age 30 months) to Reception (5 years old). Children develop quickly and their Early Years practitioners aim to do all they can to help your child have the best possible start in life and become a lifelong learner. ul. Dąbrowskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646 7777 , thebritishschool.pl

The British Primary School of Wilanów Following the National Curriculum of England and Wales, this is the first School in Poland subject to the inspection of the UK Independent School Inspectorate. Pupils receive British and, upon request, Polish reports/ diplomas. The school follows a closed admissions policy and limits enrollment of one nationality to below 50% of

Science, Physical Education, Art, Music & Rhythmics, French and Polish classes. ul.

The Canadian School of Warsaw Preschool Welcoming students from the ages of 2.5 to 6 years old, currently 45% of their admissions are international students. The dedicated, IB-trained teachers deliver an innovative program (PYP) in English designed for modern world needs. The program offers a combination of Literacy, Maths, Social Studies,

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations) Warsaw Montessori School Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have three green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in earlychildhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob.

692 099 134, warsawmontessori. edu.pl

International Trilingual School of Warsaw Established in 1994, the Trilingual School of Warsaw

offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fillimmersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/ saint-exupery.pl

The English Playhouse The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old. For more info or to arrange a tour call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email: jnowak@ theenglishplayhouse.com ul.

Pływiańska 14a, tel. 22 843 9370, tep.edu.pl

Casa dei Bambini Warsaw Montessori School accepting

applications for all our locations and programs: Infant & Toddler: age 1-2.5, Casa: age 2.5-6 Contact Ela: tel. 692 099 134 office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl Elementary: age 6-9, 9-12 Contact Sylvia: tel. 606 276 112 sylvia@warsawmontessori.edu.pl "Erdkinder" Middle School: age 12-15 Contact Małgosia: tel. 604 137 826 malgosia@warsawmontessori.edu.pl

warsaw montessori school

Warszawa: Szwoleżerów 4, Badowska 19, Tatrzańska 5a, Izabelin-Hornówek: Szkolna 16

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Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2018

www.warsawmontessori.edu.pl

DO! Education listings Happy Montessori House The Happy Montessori House offers part-time and full-time places for children aged between 2 to 6 years, as well as toddler-focused activities (from 18 months to 3 years) centered around movement, sensorial stimulation, storytelling, singing and socializing.

Warsaw Montessori Pre-school, ul. Rumiana 14, tel. 22 423 50 75, mob. 697 060 504, hmh.com.pl

Maple Tree Montessori Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological

& healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). ul.

Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, mapletreemontessori.pl

Międzynarodowa Szkoła Podstawowa Argonaut This elementary school is open for children of all nationalities and backgrounds. It places a focus on learning English as well as additional languages, and has an attractive list of available extracurricular activities.ul. Radarowa 6, tel. 504 509 504, argonaut.edu.pl

Montessori Academy for International Children An English-speaking preschool (16 months to 6 years

of age) with two locations.

The school’s policy is to comply with Montessori standards, using the Montessori Method in English. The school’s philosophy is based on the joy of learning, which comes from discovering and furthering the individual development of each child. ul.

Królewicza Jakuba 36 (Wilanów), ul. Sadowa 4 (Konstancin), Open 8:00-16:45, tel. 502 315 022, montessoriacademy.eu

schools American School of Warsaw ASW is a premier collegepreparatory international school that offers a PK-12

curriculum, including the IB Diploma Program in Grades 11 and 12. Students are inspired and challenged every day by experienced and dedicated teachers, who provide enriching learning opportunities in a world class facility. For further information contact: admissions@ aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00. ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, aswarsaw.org

The British Primary School of Wilanów Following the National Curriculum of England and Wales, this is the first School in Poland subject to the inspection of the UK Independent School Inspector-

Celebrating

25 years of

British Education in Warsaw

www.thebritishschool.pl

warsawinsider.pl

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DO! Education listings ate. Pupils receive British and, upon request, Polish reports/ diplomas. The school follows a closed admissions policy and limits enrollment of one nationality to below 50% of each class starting from Year 1. ul. Hlonda 12, bsww.pl

The British School Premium international school established in 1992 by Nord Anglia Education. The curriculum is designed to provide the highest academic quality of education. They follow the English National Curriculum, adapted to the needs of their international student community: from Primary through to the Secondary Key Stages to the IGCSE examinations and a

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well-established International Baccalaureate (IB) Diploma Program. ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, thebritishschool.pl

ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, warsawmontessori.edu.pl

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations) Warsaw Montessori School Guided by trained specialists, students will be responsible for managing their household, operating small businesses, caring for local flora and fauna as well as domesticated animals, taking charge of the younger children and much more. “Adolescence Program” activities, integrated with academic studies, help students discover their inner strength to meet life’s real challenges.

The English Primary The English Primary is designed specifically for children in the primary education ages, just as children experience in England but in an international community.

Pupils are taken through the key learning stages so that they can achieve to the best of their ability through a fun learning experience. The Core Curriculum subjects include English, Phonics, Science, Mathematics, French, PE and Swimming, Music, Personal,

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2018

Social and Health Education. ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 784 037 808, tep.edu.pl

The Canadian School of Warsaw International Elementary and Middle School Located on two campuses in the Mokotów this is the only authorized IB School with PYP programs taught in English and Polish. French is taught as a third language. Offers a wide range of extra activities, a summer school, and employs a full time psychologist. Provision is made for additional Polish and English support.

International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create the

DO! Education listings perfect learning environment. ul. Bełska 7, tel. 692 411 573 / 885 420 044, secretary@canadianschool.pl or secretary.olimpijska@ canadian-school.pl

International Trilingual School of Warsaw Established in 1994, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and

pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fillimmersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel.

501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16,

tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/saint-exupery.pl

Monnet International School Located in Mokotów, the Monnet is the only school in Poland that implements the International Baccalaureate Program from kindergarten level all the way through to secondary school. The fullyqualified staff are committed

to delivering only the highest standards of education. ul.

Stępińska 13, tel. 22 852 06 08, maturamiedzynarodowa.pl

Warsaw Montessori School Focuses on the Montessori curriculum with an education based on the integration of conceptual learning and real-life experiences. ul.

Szwoleżerów 4, tel. 22 841 3908, warsawmontessori.edu.pl

warsawinsider.pl

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DO! Health & Beauty listings spas & salons Clochee Natural, organic cosmetic brand that’s been dubbed a ‘pro-health project for your body and soul’. Using only certified ingredients, Clochee’s beauty products bring you closer to nature. Newlylaunched, their flagship store also houses a top-notch spa facilities. ul. Nowolipki 13, spa.

quantumpiekna.pl

Rostowski Barber Shop A true celebration of the vintage barber shop, Rostowski have the ambiance nailed to a tee thanks to a crew that’s ready for banter and an interior replete with jack-up chairs, glinting zinc and restored floor tiles. ul.

Koszykowa 58, rostowskibarbershop.pl

clochee.com/spa

ouch!

DEPILACJA WOSKIEM

Ouch!

Experts in waxing, Ouch! aim their offer at ‘busy women looking for express treatments with lasting effects who, at the same time, appreciate a sense of intimacy’. ul. Belwederska 32; ul.

Bonifraterska 8, ouch.pl

PARDON MY FRENCH

manicure pedicure

Pardon My French Manicure and pedicure treatments with high quality lacquers and an awareness of global trends: if you need an endorsement, Paul McCartney visited when he was in Poland! ul.

Belwederska 32; Bonifraterska 8; ul. Mokotowska 56, ul. Wilcza 3 pardonmyfrench.pl

The Pedicure Place A luxury pedi/manicure clinic with room for 10. All the latest OPI varnishes and over 200 colors guarantee you’ll find the latest in styling and nail care. ul. Pokorna 2, pedicureplace.pl

Quantum Clinic Using first class, pioneering methods and technology, the Quantum Clinic surpasses the norms that Warsaw has become used to. ul. Piękna 15,

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Retro Day Spa Royally indulgent interiors hark back to a different century, though the treatments are all hi-tech and include packages for pregnant women among the variety of beauty offers. Al. Ujazdowskie 18/11, retrodayspa.pl

the velodrome in Pruszków.

Bike hire possible, with spins priced at approximately at zł. 40 per hour. ul. Andrzeja 1 (Pruszków), bgzarena.com

Fly Spot Ever wanted to know what it’s like to fly? As in really fly??

Find out inside a vertical wind tunnel where fans whirring at a speed of up to 310 km/hr will send you shooting up in the air. Wspólna Droga 1 (Mory), flyspot.com

Frogs & Co. Warsaw’s only social rugby club welcomes all: supporters, players, young, old, men and women. The rugby is taken seriously, and so too is the social side. warsawfrogs. com

Sante The dry and wet steam room left the Insider impressed, but not as much as the ‘mood rooms’ – imagine a lunar landscape chamber with a salt-covered floor. The other, meanwhile, comes clad in minerals with recliners hewn from heated tiles. ul.

Jagiellońska 55A, studiosante.pl

Studio Jej i Jego Hair and beauty treatments for men and women – inc. nail care, massage, facial and body treatments. ul. Wiertnicza 93A, jejijego.pl

You & You Maciej Wróblewski Poland’s premier hair stylist is Maciej Wróblewski, and his flagship salon fuses a personal approach with professional styling. Disappointments are unheard of. ul.

Grzybowska 61 (Galeria Platinum Towers), youandyou.eu

sport BGZ Arena / Velodrome Bring a cycling helmet and you too can take a spin around

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2018

Hangar 646 Hangar 646 touts 50 interlinked trampolines, a ping pong zone, ball pools and even a snowboard slide where visitors hurtle down a ramp before splashing down on an inflatable mattress. ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 646, hangar646.pl

Hash House Harriers Billing themselves as ‘the drinking club with a running problem’, the Warsaw chapter of the Hash House Harriers meets every couple of weeks and welcomes runners and walkers of every level. Search for them on Facebook for further details and await further instruction from their overlord, ‘The Witch Doctor’.

Sinnet Club An exclusive members sport club featuring full-size indoor tennis courts, two external courts, three squash courts, a 25 meter swimming pool plus spa and gym facilities. ul.

Gołkowska 2, sinnet.pl

Stacja Grawitacja Set over 3,200 sq/m of space, this indoor trampoline extravaganza sends visitors bouncing down ‘ninja obstacle courses’, sky slamming basketball hoops and jumping around engaged in dodgeball shenanigans. ul. Bohaterów Września 12, stacjagrawitacja.pl

Squash City Considered one of the top squash clubs in the country, Squash City covers an area of 1,000 sq/m, with six air-conditioned courts, shop, bar, etc. Al. Jerozolimskie 179 (Blue City), squashcity.pl

Warsaw Cricket Club The oldest cricket club in the country is mainly comprised of Brits, Poles and South Asians. New members and supporters are welcomed – for details check their website. ul. Romatyczna 3 (Panorama Country Club), warsawcricketclub.pl

Warsaw International Triathlon Club Serving the needs of the athletic community, the WITC is open to all interested in the disciplines of swimming, cycling and running. warsawtriclub.com

Hobby Kicker Join the expat football team that meets each week (and sometimes more) on the 3G pitches at Centrum Futbolu Warszawianka (ul. Merliniego 2). All nationalities and levels of skills welcome. Search for Hobby Kicker – Warsaw on Facebook for details.

W Pionie An 11 meter climbing wall founded by two mountaineers. Considered one of the most advanced facilities of its kind in the country, English-speaking instructors can be rustled up on request. ul. Nowowiejska 37B, wpionie.pl

DO! Shopping Listings accessories Anacomito Luxurious-looking waist bags make for fashion that’s both modern and logical. More so, it makes the outsized bags of yesteryear increasingly redundant. anacomito.com BeautyLab Polska Rated as one of the biggest names in global cosmetics, the range of treatments run from anti-ageing to daily body care and essential skin care. beautylablondon.pro

Calvin Klein Poland’s first Calvin Klein concept store is dedicated to watches, jewelry and assorted beautiful shiny things that everyone covets. ul. Mysia 3

brilliant splash of color. ul.

Nowy Świat 37, frey-wille.com Glamstore Widely hailed by Poland’s fashion glossies, this store sells modern furnishings with all the trimmings and colors you could ask for. They also stock kitchen and bathroom accessories, as well as touting their own jewelry line. ul. Narbutta 83 (entry from ul. Łowicka)

Hard Rock Cafe No wardrobe is complete without the iconic Hard Rock t-shirt! Find the Warsawstamped version available here, along with other extras for the all American look. ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), hardrockcafe.pl

Chiara (Saska Kępa) You’d never expect it but this chic little shop stocks the best shoes and bags in the city – stock up on the latest collections from Michael Kors, Celine, Stuart Weitzman, Ralph Lauren and Mulberry. Promenada

HOS&me Luxury jewelry and the best in the biz. In stock: high end treasures from Nialaya, Lene Bjerre Design, Ti Sento, Christensen and Dryberg/ Kern. ul. Mokotowska 63,

Shopping Centre, ul. Ostrobramska 75C, chiara-online.pl

Horn&More On-trend concept store specializing in hard-to-find, deluxe brands: scents from Comme Des Garcons, jewlery from Le Petit Trou, cosmetics from DrLipp, candles from Fornasetti, etc. ul. Chopina 5B,

di Trevi Boutique Aimed at both him and her, di Trevi present the freshest Italian footwear releases from prestigious brands such as Ballin and Loriblu. Piękna 11A,

mokotowska63.com

hornandmore.com

ditrevi.pl

Duo Optyk Glasses and shades from brands such as Brenda, RayBan, Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Chanel, Chloe and Hugo Boss.

Online ordering available. ul.

Kate Roxs Beyond the slightly creepy / fetishistic window display (leather Roman body armor), this store has earned a reputation for high quality, natural leather bags. “Our inspiration,” says Kate, “comes from women, not trends.” ul. Radna

Krucza 57, eokulary.pl

10, kateroxs.eu

Frey Wille The place to go to if you’re looking for jewelry that will spice up your outfits with a

Lilou Modular jewelry made simple, and a must for all Warsaw fashionista. ul. Mokotowska 6

Malton & Kielman This leather workshop and store has a history dating from the 19th century and prides itself on luxury bespoke bags, shoes and accessories whose style is influenced by the classical British and Italian look. ul.

of my tango lessons!” ul. Poznańska 26, khaja.pl

Pracownia Czasu A true market leader with brands including Paul Picot, Graham London, Vulcain, Cuervo y Sobrinos, Ulysse Nardin and so many more.

Chmielna 6, maltonkielman.com

ul. Wiejska 14, pracowniaczasu.pl

Minty Dot Top quality Polish jewelry composed using gold, silver and natural stone. Contemporary in style, these are accessories that radiate class and craftsmanship while at the same time exuding a subtle sense of timeless romance. ul.

Puppy Star You know those glam girls who carry yappy dogs in their handbag? This is premiumpriced salon and boutique is where they shop for their pooch. ul. Niecała 7, puppystar.pl

Bracka 5, mintydot.pl

Mo61 Billed as a ‘perfume laboratory’, Mo61 allows customers to create their own scents under the expert guidance of staff trained by Zygmunt Marczewski (“the best nose in Poland”!). ul. Mokotowska 61, mo61.pl

Old Silos Relive the glory years of the 80s British ‘football casual’ in Old Silos, a sneaker store specializing in retro classics and Adidas originals. ul. Hoża

Schubert Rings, bracelets, necklaces and watches produced using the finest Baltic amber.

Or for a unique gift for him, how about an amber chess set or an amber cigarette lighter instead? ul. Piwna 12/14, ul. Piwna 26, ul. Świętojańska 11, worldofamber.pl

Stara Mydlarnia Handmade cosmetics such as fragrant soaps, bath gels and salts, body butters, massage oils and aromatic candles.

Ideal for home pampering.

Various locations inc. ul. Chmielna 4, mydla.pl

35, oldsilos.pl

Pingle Optyk A collection of hand-selected designer eyewear that is serious in terms of quality control, but entirely whimsical when it comes to design. ul.

Stetson Head to the second floor to find this purveyor of quality Americana. Hats and caps in abundance, not to mention rereleased classics to coincide with the firm’s 150th birthday. ul. Mysia 3, stetson.pl

Hoża 40

Pracownia Szczotek Opened in 1952, this bespoke brush store has been passed down the family line. On offer: everything from paintbrushes to moustache combs to hairbrushes. And the owner is a character as well: “I don’t have time for Facebook,” he says, “it would get in the way

Time To... Design Shop Discoveries include quirky, spiky bags from MadPax, Haribo jewelry adorned with Gummy Bears and animal print mugs from Pikczersy.

Above all though, the place is about timepieces, namely highly individualistic works from the S.T.A.M.P.S brand. ul. Poznańska 7, timeto.com.pl warsawinsider.pl

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DO! Shopping Listings fashion Ania Kuczyńska Ania Kuczyńska is becoming well known for her highly fashionable, minimalist clothing designs. The store also carries adorable baby clothes and various accessories. ul.

Mokotowska 61

Balthazar An atelier, boutique and private tailor with several unique brands. Book your meeting by calling tel. 535 545 728. ul. Mokotowska 64 (Plac Trzech Krzyży), balthazar.pl

di Trevi Boutique Aimed at both him and her, di Trevi present the freshest Italian footwear releases from prestige brands such as Ballin and Loriblu. Handbags are also available inside a chic interior that exudes luxury. ul.

Piękna 11A, ditrevi.pl

Łukasz Jemioł Known for his sophisticated yet nonchalant designs, discover Łukasz Jemioł’s flagship store in the heart of Warsaw’s boutique quarter. Utilizing the highest quality fabrics, his contemporary apparel comes in two lines, Premium and Basic. ul. Mokotowska 26,

Pan Tu Nie Stal Polish design at its peak: fashion is prominent, but there’s also interesting bitsy things such as aprons, jam jars, notebooks and mugs – all with a defiantly Polish twist.

Eccentric, unusual and emphatically on-trend, it’s a must-visit. Koszykowa 35/40,

Viola Śpiechowicz Inspiring, unpretentious and highly creative, Viola Śpiechowicz reinvisions what it means to be feminine by giving classic styles a progressive edge – choose from limited pret a porter collection and exclusive haute couture creations. ul. Chopina

jemiol.com

pantuniestal.com

5B, violaspiechowicz.com

Małgorzata Marszałek Out with the old and in with the new. If you’re looking to change your image then look no further than Małgorzata Marszałek, a style expert that will revamp your look in a way that’s guaranteed to boost self-confidence. “You’ll save time,” promises Małgorzata, “because I know how and where to shop – I make life easier.” malgorzata.marszalek@ lookoflaw.com, tel. 602 388 300

Joanna Klimas One of Poland’s top fashion designers runs this boutique/ showroom. Choose from the latest collections or have a dress custom made for a particular occasion. ul.

Nowolipki 2, joannaklimas.com

Likus Concept Store The Likus Concept Store brings ultra-chic designer clothing to Warsaw. The latest collections from Diesel, D2, Ferre, Stone Island, Sophia Kokosalaki and J. Lindeberg are all available and presented in this stylish three-floor department store. ul. Bracka 9 (Vitkac), likusconceptstore.pl

Lolly Pop Boutique Latest fashion from See by Chloe, Calvin Klein, Calvin Klein Jeans, Melissa, UnitedNude, Bronx and many more. For online shopping, check: sklep. lollypop.pl Al. Jerozolimskie 169 lok 45A (C.H. Blue City, level 1), lollypop.pl

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home Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Brands include: Beach Bunny, Buscemi, Canada Goose, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Dsquared 2, Christian Louboutin, Fay, Gianvito Rossi, Hogan, Kenzo, Kotur, Moncler, Mr& Mrs Italy, One Teaspoon, Ralph Lauren, Simonetta Ravizza, Tom Ford, Tory Burch, Valentino, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon. Childrenswear: Burberry Children, Dsquared2 Kids, Kenzo Kids, Moncler Kids, Ralph Lauren Kids, Tod’s Kids.

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, plactrzechkrzyzy.com

Moliera 2 Boutique Brands include: Alexandre Birman, Alexandre Vauthier, Anya Hindmarch, Aquazzura, Balmain, Beach Bunny, Buscemi, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Francesco Russo, Gianvito Rossi, Herve Leger, Isabel Marant, Jimmy Choo, Kenzo, Kotur, Maison Michel, Moncler, One Teaspoon, Simonetta Ravizza, Tod’s, Tory Burch, Valentino, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon. ul.

Moliera 2, moliera2.com

Ptasia 6 A unique ladies concept store showcasing the works of both emerging and established independent Polish fashion labels such as Eva Grygo, Confashion, Horror! Horror!, Kasia Miciak and Polanka. ul.

Ptasia 6, ptasia6.pl

Reykjavik District Chic, well-cut menswear for all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal. ul. Burakowska 15, reykjavikdistrict.com

Mostrami.pl Known to insiders as the ‘Polish Net-a-porter’, the online Mostrami portal showcases a whole breed of Polish fashion talent: Blessus, Justyna Chrabelska, Łukasz Jemioł, and Zuo Corp, as well as the rock stars of the local scene such as Kupisz, Zień and Plich.

Risk. Made In Warsaw Mixing modern shapes with expert tailoring, the idea was to create a look that’s both comfortable yet chic. That they’ve been featured in the likes of Vogue and Elle suggests that this target has been accomplished. ul. Szpitalna 9,

mostrami.pl

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Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2018

Magazyn Praga A visit to this home design store is guaranteed to transform your apartment.

Showcasing emerging Polish talent, the items here are not without humor: ceramic French bulldogs are particularly popular. ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory)

Makutra To know and not to cook, is not to know. This store has everything a master chef seeks: from tagines to mezzalunas, it’s got the lot covered. Huge stock of cook books and kitchenware. ul.

Oleandrów 5, makutra.com

Porcelanowa Award-winning, contemporary Polish porcelain produced by cult, internationally recognized brands such as Aoomi and Fenek. ul. Kredytowa 2, porcelanowa.com

Spod Lady This shop’s a beauty, and brims with collectibles that have seen classic PRL keepsakes given a contemporary update. ul. Chmielna 26, spodlady.com

Velt Beautiful family-run glassware store whose pieces include the Leda lamp, awarded an honorable mention in the prestigious 2012 Red Dot Awards. ul. Próżna 12, velt.pl

DO! General Listings 5-Star Hotels Bellotto ul. Senatorska 13/15, tel. 22 829 6444, hotelbellotto.pl

between-us.eu

Express Relocations

ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, reservations@regentwarsaw.com, regent-warsaw.com

Boutique B&B

ul. Szyszkowa 35/37, expressrelocations.com

The Rialto Boutique Hotel

car rental

630 6306, warsawmarriott.com

Regent Warsaw Hotel

ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8700, rialto.pl

Bristol Hotel ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1000, hotelbristolwarsaw.pl

Avis

ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6100, sheraton.pl

Fredrick Chopin Airport, tel. 22 650 4872, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 575 6583, Reservations: tel. 801 120 010, avis.pl

Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888, radissonblu.com

Hertz Rent a Car

Hilton Warsaw ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555 / 800 44 11 482, hilton.com

Sofitel Warsaw Victoria

Indigo

ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8011, sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com

ul. Smolna 40, tel. 22 418 89 00, indigowarsaw.com

Westin

InterContinental

Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, westin.pl

ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, warsaw.intercontinental.com

Mamaison Le Régina Hotel ul. Kościelna 12, tel. 22 531 6000, mamaison.com

Marriott Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22

Euro Move International Movers ul. Kineskopowa 1, euromove.pl

Interdean International ul. Geodetów 172, Piaseczno, tel.

22 701 7171, interdean.com

Sheraton

H15 Boutique ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 553 8700, info@h15ab.com, h15ab.com

ul. Smolna 14/6, tel. 22 829 4800, bedandbreakfast.pl

Okęcie Airport, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 2896; mob. 691 411 130. ul. Nowogrodzka 27, tel. 22 621 1360.

relocation companies

B&B

AGS Warsaw

Between Us Bed & Breakfast

CorstJens Worldwide Movers

ul. Bracka 20, tel. 22 8285417 (from 10 a.m. to 11p.m.),

ul. Nowa 23, Stara Iwiczna, corstjens.com

ul. Julianowska 37, Piaseczno, agsmovers.com

Move One Relocations Also immigration assistance, fine art shipping, pet transport and consulting services. Check their website for more details. ul. Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 8160, moveonerelo.com

Relo Planet International, domestic and office removals, corporate and individual relocations, fine art shipping, storage, insurance, as well as a full range of assistance services (immigration, etc.). ul. Batalinou Platerówek 3, reloplanet.com

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Warsaw Guide

THE ESSENTIALS...

Cut through the chaff and time manage your visit as effectively as possible.

COPERNICUS SCIENCE CENTRE

COMMUNISM

A full tour of Stalin’s Palace of Culture is a must: the basements are wild and the viewing terrace unimpeachable. Check the more ambient side to Communism in the Neon Museum and then visit The Museum of Life Under Communism: it’s tiny, but humorous, eccentric and highly informative. While you’re there, squeeze into a knackered militia wagon and take one of their commie-themed tours. Equally weird, check out a former nuclear bunker by visiting the once top secret Obiekt Alfa (obiektalfa.pl).

MODERN WARSAW

THE OLD…

The Old Town, raised from the rubble after WWII, is symbolic of this ‘phoenix city’, and fully deserving of its UNESCO listed status. In the square, the Museum of Warsaw is a great primer to the city, while the Royal Castle is a maze of fancy chambers and important paintings by the likes of Rembrandt and Canaletto. After, enjoy a mulled wine in the festive market in the Old Town Square. To soak in the extravagances of Poland’s imperial years, then Łazienki Park is essential, as is a visit to the Wilanów Palace: frequently termed as being ‘the Polish Versailles’, the gardens are illuminated each winter and are a surreal, entrancing experience.

WWII

Memories of WWII still hang heavy.

Learn about the 1944 Warsaw Uprising at The Rising Museum: it’s deservedly rated as among the most

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important cultural institutions in the country. The Old Town’s ‘Heritage Centre’ documents the destruction of the city, while three separate museums, Pawiak, Szucha and Katyń, cover equally somber chapters in Poland’s dark history.

JEWISH WARSAW

Though largely flattened, the former Jewish Ghetto contains numerous memorials, among them the Umschlagplatz installation that commemorates the deportations to Treblinka. The one synagogue that survived (Twarda 6) is the center of local Jewish life, while the innovative Polin covers all aspects of this nation’s complex and often fraught Jewish history. Finally, visit the often unsung Jewish Historical Institute to view their new permanent exhibition: titled ‘What We Were Unable To Shout Out To The World’, it presents rediscovered documents relating to life in the Ghetto.

Wonder amid romping kids and whirring machines in the Copernicus Science Centre, and after take a walk down the riverfront to the Museum of Modern Art. Across the water, the state-of-the-art National Stadium conducts regular tours – until mid-March find the playing surface converted into a vast rink complete with ‘ice hills’ and bumper cars.

ART

Serious art lovers flock to the National Museum for its determined presentation of art through the ages. The Zachęta, the Modern Art Museum and CSW are more alternative with captivating exhibitions that thrill non-conformists. That said, some of the city’s best art is found on its walls: Praga and Muranów are particularly known for their giant wall murals.

PEOPLE

The watchful shadow of Chopin, the city’s favorite son, looms large across Warsaw: the museum dedicated to his memory amazes by the breadth of its scope. Now reopened following a thorough refit, the Marie Curie Museum in New Town does a splendid job of remembering the world’s most famous female science boffin.

THE SKY’S THE LIMIT!

• Class A office space: ideal for corporations, individual entrepreneurs and start-ups • Owned by Poland’s largest developer, Echo Investment S.A. • Innovative, open-minded solutions that are tailor-made to fit your needs • We offer an ‘all-in’ concept that has revolutionized the market • The most advanced business and office services (from meetings rooms to virtual offices and conventional office space) City Space | Rondo ONZ 1 | cityspace.pl | sales@cityspace.pl | tel. 48 22 418 77 77

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Insider Finds

a love lock to a bridge actually dates back to... well, no-one really knows.

Some claim it all began in Serbia, when a pair of star-crossed lovers affixed a padlock to Most Ljubavi before being separated forever by the events of World War I. Still others suggest the practice stems from Ancient China.

Not all, however, have embraced this love dovey custom. Jonathan Jones, the Guardian’s resident art guru, likens the act to “climbing a mountain and leaving a crisp packet at the top,” while in Paris local councilors blame the locks for “long-term heritage degradation.” Yet while cities across the world have moved to remove the locks so as to protect historic bridges from both structural risk and aesthetic damage, Warsaw, of course, doesn’t give a damn. Considered the capital’s most romantic bridge, Most Świętokrzyski has become the local Ground Zero for this global phenomenon...

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PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

THE HEART OF THE MATTER Mistakenly thought to have originated in Paris, the soppy ritual of attaching