Warsaw Insider November 2017 #255

Warsaw The Capital’s Original City Magazine Since 1996

NOVEMBER 2017

255 11/2017

INDEKS 334901 ISSN:1643-1723

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(VAT 8% included)

• Pl. Defilad & Grzybowski • Interview: Comic Guy! • Food: BioBazar • Drink: Autumn Wine • Travel: Poznań

ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER ALEXANDRE BIRMAN ANYA HINDMARCH AQUAZZURA BALMAIN BUSCEMI CASADEI CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN ELIE SAAB FRANCESCO RUSSO GIANVITO ROSSI HERVE LEGER ISABEL MARANT KENZO KOTUR LORO PIANA MAISON MICHEL MANOLO BLAHNIK ONETEASPOON SELF – PORTRAIT TOD’S TORY BURCH VICTORIA BECKHAM YVES SALOMON

tel.: 228277099, www.Moliera2.com

editorial INFRONT

Editor-in-chief Alex Webber

8 Take a Number 10 News 12 Interview:

insider@warsawinsider.pl Art Director Kevin Demaria insider@warsawinsider.pl

Jan Godwod

Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com

FEATURES

Contributors: Stuart Dowell Maria Mileńko Michał Miszkurka Ed Wight

16 Tale of Two

Squares 26 Travel: Poznań

PARTNER SPOTLIGHT

EAT!

37 Koreanka 38 N31 40 Koko & Roy 42 Mokotowska 69 44 BioBazar 48 Strefa

DRINK!

Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com Business Development Manager A. Julita Pryzmont jpryzmont@valkea.com

W

ithout wishing to sound like a suicide note, November in Warsaw is all about death – it begins with the locals swarming the cemeteries to mark All Saints’ Day, and finishes with everyone sick and looking depressed.

And somewhere in between all that, the trees lose their leaves and a squalid, smoggy pall settles over Poland. But through the murk and misery comes a rare shaft of light: it’s the new Insider! This issue, we ask an expert about the odd-but-cool world of comics, bid au revoir (but not good bye) to the BioBazar, and send an expeditionary task force to Poznań. Further to that all, we take an in-depth look at Defilad and Grzybowski – two squares that stand on the edge of immense modification. As always, hope you enjoy it, blah, blah. Till next time!

85 Ul 86 Wine Class

DO!

101 Loft37 102 Calendar 114 Guide: Flash

Points 116 Guide: Essentials 118 Map 120 Insider Finds

ey Account Manager K Joanna Łysik jlysik@valkea.com Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com Subscription 12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland.

Orders can be placed through: insider@warsawinsider.pl Printed by Zakład Poligraficzny TECHGRAF Tel. (17) 225-28-69

Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

on the cover A Tale of Two Squares: we look at the stories behind Defilad and Grzybowski – see p. 16.

(Illustration by Michał Miszkurka)

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ey Account Manager K Agata Sicińska asicinska@valkea.com

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2017

VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies.

All information ©2017 Warsaw Insider.

PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT

31 The latest marketplace news from the Warsaw Insider’s friends and advertisers

NOVEMBER 2017

CASADEI CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN MEN FAY GIANVITO ROSSI MEN KENZO MONCLER ONE TEASPOON RALPH LAUREN TOD’S TORY BURCH VALENTINO VICTORIA BECKHAM BURBERRY CHILDREN DSQUARED2 KIDS KENZO KIDS MONCLER KIDS

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 tel.: +48 226221416, www.PlacTrzechKrzyzy.com

by Wilamowski W W W. C H L O D N A 1 5 . P L R E Z E R WA C J E @ C H L O D N A 1 5 . P L TEL. 730 737 677

C H Ł O D N A 1 5 B Y W I L A M OW S K I T H E A U T H E N T I C TA S T E O F F R A N C E I N T H E C E N T E R O F WA R S AW

BANJALUKA 2/4 Szkolna, Warsaw +48228281060 banjaluka.pl Facebook.com/BANJALUKA.WWA Instagram: @banjaluka_warszawa

MOMU 9/11 Wierzbowa, Warsaw +48506100001 momu.pl Facebook.com/MOMU Instagram: @momu_pieczemy_dymem

If you haven’t heard about us yet, you should know that we have been on the Warsaw gastronomy map for over 13 years. In the meantime, we moved from Mokotow to the Centre of Warsaw. We are inspired by colourful, diversified but still undiscovered Balkans. Gourmet kitchen open late into the evening, live music every day, Sunday animations are the reasons for which our guests appreciate us the most.

If, however, you already know us, then you probably tried the lamb chops by our chef Olaf Michalczyk who says with a smell on his face: “I put my lamb chops, against all other cutlets in this city”. It is also hard not to know Mrs. Kate’s apple pie and Mrs. Anna’s cheesecake which are smashing the system. Regional rakija, Croatian and Slovenian wines and beer from Bosnia probably also sound familiar to you. If that’s the case, we are sure we will see each other again very soon.

MOMU specializes in roasted food, utilizing traditional cooking techniques to create a top-quality menu. The kitchen’s wood fire oven enhances the flavour of MOMU’s meat, fish, vegetables, fruit and cheese, with no preservatives or enhancers.

The restaurant takes pride in its regional menu, using only the best ingredients from Polish suppliers.

Alongside the kitchen you’ll also find a fully stocked bar, with a variety of wine, beer and whisky specially designed to accompany your meal. MOMU is also home to a unique atmosphere, with daily performances from local musicians.

AïOLI inspired by Gdańsk 6 Partyzantów, Gdańsk aioliinspiredbygdansk.pl Facebook.com/AIOLIxGDANSK Instagram: @aiolixgdansk

AIOLI Cantine Bar Cafe Deli 18 Świętokrzyska, Warsaw +48226572126 aioli-cantine.com Facebook.com/ AIOLICantineSwietokrzyska Instagram: @aioli_swietokrzyska

Not a restaurant, but a city cantine that o ers an adventure with a Mediterranean twist in fast food gourmet. AïOLI inspired by Gdańsk is the only gastronomic concept combining a cantina, tattoo studio and barber shop - all in one place at 6 Partyzant street.

AïOLI is a modern urban canteen bustling from the early hours to the last guest. The menu features breakfast, snacks, salads, sandwiches, pastas, burgers and pizzas. The chefs regularly surprise with seasonal, spontaneous cuisine. Every night DJs play for guests, making the place vibrant with life like all popular European city canteens. This is the place where the Mediterranean kitchen merges with lifestyle.

Thank you for being with us - you come to a place which you yourself create!

AïOLI is a bar, café and deli, and was created with three factors in mind: a passion for good-quality food, the joy of a Southern style of living and a love of beautiful interiors. The owners decided to combine these ideas, concentrating on achieving great quality through simple ingredients. Now one of the stars of the Warsaw gastronomic scene, it is known for its creative Italian cuisine with American influences, its industrial interior, and music from Warsaw’s best DJs – not to mention its signature AïOLI, a staple of southern European cooking. Our tip: try the Taleggio pizza.

number take a

Five Million Złotys Two silver fish knives produced

by Faberge have been rediscovered in Poland. Valued at just under five million złoty, the knives date from 1900 and are believed to have been part of a wider set of cutlery that was melted down during the Russian Revolution; according to researchers, they were given to a Bolshevik soldier who in turn sold them to a Polish doctor in 1921. Unheard of for nearly a century, it was announced last month that the knives had resurfaced and had been sold to a private collector.

Visitors and Counting!

A Polish couple from Szczecin are celebrating after being named the one millionth visitors to Polin, a.k.a The Museum of the History of Polish Jews. Aside from receiving lifetime passes to the museum, the pair have also earned themselves an all-expenses-paid trip to Tel Aviv. First opened to the public on October 28th, 2014, the museum has come to be regarded as one of the country’s true world class attractions. According to statistics released by the management, the museum has been visited by sightseers from 113 countries, with foreign tourists accounting for over 30% of its total footfall.

Presenting 80,000 objects across an area of 12,800 sq/m, the institution has scooped just about every accolade going, most notably the top prize in last year’s edition of the European Museum of the Year awards.

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Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2017

Over The Limit...

It’s baaaack! Following a brief break over summer, Warsaw’s smog problem made a theatrical return in October – at one stage, analysts determined that the number of harmful particles in the air had exceeded EU limits by over 300%. The news is a blow to City Hall who have repeatedly struggled to persuade local residents to curb harmful emissions from antiquated coal-fired heaters and cars. A study earlier this year revealed that such is the standard of air, the average Varsovian inhales the equivalent of 1,000 cigarettes per year.

COURTESY OF POLIN

1,000,000

300%

News Briefs

Going, going and probably gone by the time you read this will be the block on the corner of Rondo ONZ and Świętokrzyska. Originally built in the 1960s to house foreigners, the building will be swapped for a 160-meter skyscraper that’s due to be completed in 2021. In the meantime, locals have enjoyed one of the weirder demolition jobs carried out in recent years: “It’s like a meteorite has struck,” commented one hack writing for Gazeta Wyborcza.

WRECK TO BE WRECKED? Efforts are underway to rescue one of Warsaw’s great sur-

viving war ruins from outright destruction. Substantially damaged towards the end of WWII, the building at Waliców 14 has become one of the city’s quirkier landmarks on account of its crowning feature: a shattered exterior wall adorned with a 1,400 sq/m mural. However, with the area now experiencing an economic revival, real estate developers are circling the plot with increased vigor and interest, a point that has infuriated local and international activists who have been quick to point out the structure’s historic merit: one of a handful of buildings to survive the methodical destruction of the Warsaw Ghetto, it was also the home of the celebrated Jewish-Polish poet Władysław Szlengel.

MUSHROOM HOOLIGANS Full marks for ingenuity – having noticed a group of young meatheads behaving suspiciously in the forests of Łopuszno, locals called in police who swooped on fans of Śląsk Wrocław limbering up for a punch-up with followers of Legia Warszawa. Despite being caught redhanded with combat mitts and protective clothing, the Śląsk fans insisted they were enjoying a day out picking mushrooms and that the machetes they were carrying were essential mushrooming aids.

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Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2017

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT, SHUTTERSTOCK, KEVIN DEMARIA, ALEX WEBBER

UNDER THE HAMMER

Interview spend but none of the same liabilities and costs that the older generation have.

Where did your journey with comics begin?

My ‘desk mate’ at school was this Japanese-Polish guy – he introduced me to Manga. Of course, I was already familiar with Polish comics but these blew my mind! Everything grew from there: I started a comic club, organized some conventions, founded a magazine...

It was all quite natural.

When I first went properly ‘professional’ eleven years ago my family thought I was crazy, but the company has grown from a 20-meter store on Chmielna to being the largest comic store chain in Poland and the country’s second biggest publisher of Manga.

Creator of Yatta, Poland’s biggest chain of comic book stores, Jan Godwod talks about his life in comics...

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Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2017

Where does Poland fit within the comic world?

It’s impossible really to make comparisons because every market is different, however, I’d say our Manga sector is as big as Germany’s, while overall we’ve probably got the fourth biggest comic market in Europe. I’d definitely add that it’s the younger generation that are really driving this – the kids now have money to

What’s the magic of comics?

I was born in 1983, so while I’m young I’m still old enough to remember communism. I’m old enough to remember how gray and bleak life could be. Comics offered an escape from that. They offered a world of color; a world that was dynamic and vibrant. >>>

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

The Comic Book Guy

How fierce is the competition between Polish vendors?

We actually get together for games nights once a week at a secret location in Ursynów. We’re all good friends; well, at least most of us are! When the market is so small, there’s no other way but to get along. We all know each others specialties and are pretty careful not to infringe on them – that way, we all get a small piece of the cake.

Interview Which countries inspire you?

Obviously I’m hugely interested in Japan but I also really love America – or, more to the point, I love the American people. Everyone I’ve met there is kind, cheerful, helpful. It’s so much easier to do business when there’s that kind of good vibe.

What makes a good collector?

A good collector needs to know what to collect. We don’t collect any old junk, an item has to have a value attached or otherwise there’s no sport in collecting it. It’s a bit like a rabbit hunt: the buzz is all about searching, seeking, browsing. Neither is there any room for jealousy or selfishness. A good collection doesn’t collect dust: it’s shared. This hobby isn’t about hoarding and keeping things to yourself.

How do you avoid gathering junk?

Most of us collectors have a certain range of interest. For instance, when it comes to Lego some people collect the bricks, others the sealed sets, others the instruction manuals, etc. I’m a trained computer specialist so I’ve created a bot that searches eBay and gives me a shout once it finds something that fits the criteria I’ve set.

Quite often collectors will buy items in pairs: for example, one comic to read, and another copy to add to their collection. It can be a strange pastime so it’s kind of hard to explain: you either get it or you don’t.

What kind of items do you avoid?

There’s something of a bubble in some areas of

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Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2017

the market – we’re seeing figures produced of completely irrelevant characters: do we really need an action figure of a bit-part character that appeared in episode 6, season 7 of Game of Thrones? Yet several people are speculating and buying twenty such figures at a time in the hope that they’ll gather value in years to come. But that’s not collecting, that’s being stupid!

Even without being a hoarder, your home must still be an Aladdin’s Cave?

I’ve got a small flat but I love collecting Lego – when visitors come round they react like they’ve entered a toy store for the first time! My wife and I have just had a child and I can definitely see problems ahead teaching my child the distinction between his toys and mine!

If you could recruit any three characters to man your shop, who would you pick?

Batman – he’s obviously a great detective, but I’ve also got the sneaking feeling he’d make a really great salesman: he’s smooth, intelligent and even a little bit intimidating when the time is right! Then there’s Usagi Yojimbo, a rabbit / samurai.

He’d provide security and, because he’s such a fair-minded character, he’d be good team member.

Finally, Goku from the Dragon Ball Manga series.

He’s funny and charming and would give out plenty of positive energy.

Yatta Various locations, inc. ul. Hoża 9 & Chmielna 10, yatta.pl

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Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2017

A Tale of TWO SQUARES

Though not much more than 500 paces apart, Pl. Grzybowski and Pl. Defilad couldn’t be more different: on the one hand, Grzybowski, a square whose textured history takes visitors through all the key stages of the city’s modern history. On the other, Defilad, a barren tundra largely employed as a car park. But despite the disparities, both present multi-layered narratives and complex timelines...

PLACS SQUARES OF WARSAW

PLAC OF PROTEST

As Europe’s second largest square (only Berlin’s Alexanderplatz beats it), Defilad’s size has made it the ideal rallying point for large scale marches and public protests.

Poland’s ‘patriotic youth’ have frequently used it as an assembly area for their annual Independence Day riot, while the last two years have also seen it utilized by Czarny Protest – the women’s movement originally formed to battle ludicrous plans to outlaw abortion. Though subject to political and occasional physical hostility, Warsaw’s gay parade has grown to such a size that organizers estimate around 50,000 people turned up this summer – a perfect fit for this wide, open space.

PLAC DEFILAD PLAC OF PLEASURE

What do you do when a party grows too big? Move it to Defilad. Having been held across various parts of town, the city’s official New Year’s Eve celebrations found themselves shunted to Defilad in 2016. The square’s got good form: for years it’s hosted the grand finale of WOŚP, the country’s biggest annual fundraiser, while five years back it became home to a 120,000 sq/m fan zone during Euro 2012. Essentially functioning as a giant open-air pub, those who were there will never forget the scenes of delirium as over 100,000 Poles exploded into ecstasy after leveling against Russia.

PLAC OF MEMORY

Technically, pedants have every right to argue that Park Świętokrzyski to the north of the Palace of Culture isn’t part of Defilad.

They’d be correct, but that’s beside the point. Sat in the long shadow of PKiN, this under-visited park was founded post-war on the ashes of ul. Śliska and contains an impressive statue of the Jewish pedagogue Janusz Korczak. It was from this spot that he marched with the orphans in his care to Umschlagplatz in 1942. Several poignant accounts tell of how he led his charges in song as they made their way to the cattle wagons bound for the gas chambers of Treblinka.

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Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2017

PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE PAP

90S FLASHBACK Freshly unchained from the shackles of communism, 90s Warsaw was a bonkers place to be: to a murky background of sleaze and shootings, the city and its citizens gorged themselves on capitalist pleasures. Plac Defilad became symbolic of the general mayhem and unbridled free-for-all.

A labyrinth of tin stalls shot up, with the outdoor bazaar becoming the definitive source of counterfeit swag. Eventually, the 2,000 traders, many of whom simply camped out in their cars, were forced out, but it would take longer to shift MarcPol. Erected in 1991, this leaky, 3,000 sq/m market hall was finally dismantled in 2009.

Though Defilad was rife with petty crime and low-level gang violence, it also became a place of color and entertainment – for a fee of zl. 10,000, visitors could enter Cricoland, a vulgar wonderland of fairground rides and gaudy amusements. The star attraction? A female diver that would swim with a shark. Yet although most aspects of the 90s have been completely erased, one still survives: created in 1998 as a temporary solution, the Patelnia (Frying Pan), has become one of the city’s most important pedestrian thoroughfares. Found at the mouth of Metro Centrum, it’s more than a transport hub – it’s also the home of Paweł Zieńkiewicz, a local legend that you’ll hear daily drumming on a chair. warsawinsider.pl

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PLACS SQUARES OF WARSAW PRESENT

Legal disputes have persistently paralyzed plans to transform the square. In the words of one critic, “it’s as if Pl. Defilad wields changepreventing powers.” Though much of it festers as a car park, actions to humanize it have also been undertaken: outbreaks of public art (many of them the work of the nearby Bar Studio) are now increasingly common. But the lack of clarity surrounding who can do what has been typified by the appearance of a passenger plane that’s set to be turned into a restaurant.

PLAC DEFILAD

FUTURE

Past ideas have included planting a forest of skyscrapers around PKiN, others of turning Defilad into a forested urban oasis. One architectural student has even gone so far as to suggest re-branding it as Pl. Delfin and coiling a water slide around the Palace of Culture (the design, and this is the brilliant bit, includes a giant dolphin statue and a tropical man-made beach). Back in the real world, and the problem of what do with this wasted space remains moot – but not for much longer. On November 6th, the city’s Urban Planning Office will reveal five finalists in their competition to find a future solution to the mess left by Stalin.

PAST

First named Pl. Stalina, the square utterly ignored the prewar street plan and ‘imposed upon the city a scale that was completely alien to Warsaw’.

Created to psychologically overwhelm, its primary function was as a military parade ground and it was capped by a saluting platform that today glumly overlooks the bus stop.

It was passed here obedient communists would march by party dignitaries on the 1st of May. A brief chink of light was offered when the Rolling Stones turned up in 1967, a seismic event that saw Defilad transformed into a battleground of rioting youths.

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Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2017

What pitfalls does any redevelopment of Pl. Defilad need to avoid?

Right now the squares we have are too heavily commercialized.

Metaphorically, it feels like you have to ‘buy a ticket’ to enjoy the space.

What I don’t want to see is Pl. Defilad ‘McDonalized’ and plastered with the same global brands and logos. It needs to feel unique.

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS PAGE KEVIN DEMARIA, OPPOSITE FROM TOP, PRESS MATERIAL, KEVIN DEMARIA, PAP

With so much money set to be poured into Pl. Defilad, isn’t gentrification and commercialization an inevitable side-effect?

It’s something we’re focused on avoiding and we hope to do so by remaining accessible to all. Look at the Museum right now: we charge just a token fee for admission and provide free guided tours. We’re not targeting one particular group, we want our audience to be as wide as possible.

When planning a successful square, what are the most important considerations to take into account?

The management. The coalition that’s necessary between the community, NGOs and the city council is something our exhibition explores. When designing or re-designing a square, it’s no longer about surface details like wood and stone, it’s about people and how to organize them. That’s the modern way of thinking about public space.

Squaring Up Tomasz Fudala, the curator of the Modern Art Museum in Warsaw, talks about the future home of the museum and the subject of the museum’s current exhibition: Plac Defilad...

What’s your own relationship with Pl. Defilad?

I’m from Starachowice so it wasn’t until the 90s that I visited the square.

In those days it was a temporary market filled with traders and I remember feeling disappointed that such a central part of the capital could look so squalid. I joined the Modern Art Museum when it first began in 2005 so I’ve seen all the chaos relating to the Museum moving here. The first competition to find a design for a museum on Pl. Defilad was canceled due to legal reasons and at times the square has felt like a paralyzing force.

We’re desperate to see it ‘living’ in a useful way rather than being dedicated to cars and fast food kiosks.

What’s gone wrong with Warsaw’s public squares and spaces?

This isn’t a vast city but it’s various functions are way too scattered: they’re spread out like little islands, and though our public transport system is very good people still have to travel too much. I feel this city is too dedicated to cars and that the relationship between cars and pedestrians needs to renegotiated. Many cities have already solved this problem, so change is possible. I also think the city hasn’t worked hard enough to fight gentrification though I hope that might change. The city has a new chief architect whose already shown a willingness to open a dialogue with residents.

The ‘Warsaw Under Construction’ festival is now in its ninth year – how has it progressed over the years?

As a rule we always invite foreign experts to speak at the festival, >>> warsawinsider.pl

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PLACS SQUARES OF WARSAW

and it’s encouraging that so many want to be involved. This is a city in transition, and that, I guess, makes it very interesting to all creatives. There are negatives that can be felt as a result of this transition – for example, gentrification – but there’s also a lot of potential that stands to be realized.

How important was it to you that the new Museum of Modern Art rises on Pl. Defilad?

The museum will represent the city on an international stage so the location was always important. Warsaw has loads of cinemas and suchlike, but on a rainy day there aren’t many cultural attractions that you’d visit and that’s especially true when it comes to contemporary art. The new museum will be a calling card.

Secondly, I think its influence goes beyond culture alone. Right now I think the parks that fringe Pl. Defilad look a little gloomy – the museum will add greenery and open these spaces up more.

Plac Defilad: A Step Forward

The ninth edition of the Warsaw Under Construction festival examines the past, present and future of Pl. Defilad, as well as the social processes that have shaped thirty squares in Warsaw and abroad.

Galeria Studio Pl. Defilad 1, open Tue-Sun 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Admission zł. 5.

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Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2017

Above: Exhibition view, the history of Pl. Defilad, Galeria Studio Below: Surface Marking Section, 2017, by Józef Gałązka

PHOTOGRAPHS OPPOSITE PAGE BY ED WIGHT

What did you learn about both Defilad and the city over the course of creating the exhibition?

A common criticism of the square is that it’s too big. However, this is exactly how it was intended – its size made it perfect for military parades during communism. It was also interesting to learn that Patelnia (ed note: the space in front of Metro Centrum) is one of the most useful squares in the city. The funny thing is that, from a legal point of view, it can’t even be classed as a square. But that alone seems typical of post-communist Poland: that something somehow works even though it was never designed to fill that certain role.

A PLAC OF ART

Contemporary art has played an important role in reviving Grzybowski. It began in 2007 when the Plac was an overgrown park filled with dog poo. Sensing an opportunity, artist Joanna Rajkowska created a temporary 140 sq/m pond that breathed new life into the area. A year later came Faces, a project that superimposed sepia portraits of Jewish victims of the Holocaust onto the crumbling facades of a pair of pre-war tenements. And who can forget the fleeting appearance of a kneeling Hitler in one of the courtyards of Próżna? Onto the present, head to the Cosmo Tower to view Ering Shakine’s You & Me: it’s said to symbolize the see-saw relationship between men and women.

A CENTER OF JEWISH CULTURE

Culminating at the start of September, the annual Singer Jewish Festival has become one of Warsaw’s best loved street parties; held on and around Grzybowski, it’s worked wonders in building awareness of the area’s heritage. This growing consciousness manifested itself last year in a remarkable show of community support after the local Jewish Theater found itself evicted from their home. Taking their performances outdoors and onto Grzybowski, the actors were backed by a crowd in its thousands.

PLAC GRZYBOWSKI

BEG YOUR PARDON?

Gone but not forgotten, Pardon To Tu will be remembered as one of the most influential bars of recent times. Knocked down earlier this year to make way for another glass spire, it served as one of Warsaw’s brightest beacons for alternative culture. My first memory: an Ethiopian jazz star playing an analogue synthesizer with vocal accompaniment provided by a vampish chanteuse the wrong side of 70.

I might be wrong though, for the mists of time have left muddled recollections. A place of decadent spirit and artistic soul, PTT captured the zeitgeist like few others could. And oblivious to the gentle sense of circling chaos: Ykos, the bar’s guardian canine. Pardon To Tu: Warsaw’s worse without you.

warsawinsider.pl

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PLACS SQUARES OF WARSAW

PLAC GRZYBOW Offering a fascinating journey through the modern history of Warsaw, Pl. Grzybowski now finds itself facing a new enemy at the gates: gentrification...

BY STUART DOWELL

L

IKE A SLICE OF PIZZA wedged into

North Śródmieście, encircled by an ever-growing forest of skyscrapers, Plac Grzybowski is bravely fighting off the corporate mono-culture template and wears its badge of shabby independence proudly. Architecturally eclectic, socially diverse and with a Jewish micro-community, the square can justifiably be called unique. But how long can this last and will the specter of gentrification become a reality?

The beginnings of the square reach back to the 17th century, when it was part of the Grzybów jurydyka, or private town, established

by Jan Grzybowski. In the 18th century, the square gained a town hall, and after Grzybów was incorporated into Warsaw in 1794 the building became a prison. In time, the prison

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Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2017

was torn down and classicist town houses sprung up around the edges, two of which survive today on the western side with the same address: Plac Grzybowski 10.

A big change came in 1861 when work started on the impressive All Saints Church designed by the prolific Warsaw architect Henryk Marconi. It still stands today on the square’s southern edge. During the war, the church, along with the rest of the square, was part of the ghetto and served as a place of worship for Christians of Jewish descent until the deportations to Treblinka in 1942. In June of this year, the church became the first place in Poland to receive the title House of Life by the Wallenberg Foundation for its role in saving Jews during the war.

The square started to take on its current form in the post-war years. The remaining town houses on ul. Bagno were replaced in the 1960s by today’s small estate of three tower blocks, which has virtually blocked convenient access to the square from Marszałkowska, adding to its

PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE SHUTTERSTOCK, OPPOSITE PAGE PAP

2017

WSKI sense of separation.

Luckily, the fate of Bagno didn’t befall ul.

Próżna, famously the only residential street from the Warsaw Ghetto whose buildings on both sides survived and remained unrestored into the modern era. This status has changed slightly with the beautiful restoration of Próżna 7 and 9 and work is underway on the opposite side at No. 4. Interestingly, the height difference in the buildings across the two sides of the street comes from the development of longer fire ladders that allowed permission to be granted for another storey at No. 4.

Próżna has been central in reconnecting the area to its Jewish past, particularly as the venue, along with Plac Grzybowski, of the hugely popular Singer Festival, a celebration of Warsaw’s former Yiddish culture – its literature, heritage, music, theatre and cuisine, named after the Nobel literature prize winning author Isaac Bashevis Singer, who lived for part of his life not far away at ulica Krochmalna 10.

For a long time, the square has been a kind of shabby backdrop to the modern business and residential towers shooting up around it. It has been lauded as a good example of how gentrification doesn’t have to lead to a corporate homogeneity and the chasing out of erstwhile residents creating an oasis for the financially privileged. But time never stands still.

The avuncular and aging proprietors of the small hardware stores in the classicist townhouse at Plac Grzybowski 10 on the western side must look at the unbroken ranks of trendy eateries on the opposite flank with a sense of trepidation. Mr Felsz, who runs a plumbing goods business that goes back to 1918 understands that great customer service is the only way to survive. When this customer crossed his threshold in search of a plunger, he carefully analyzed the cloggy problem, located the right tool, trained me in its use and even upsold me some nasty looking fluid as a Plan B. As he waved me on my way from under his arched lintel, I wondered whether his reassuring personal approach would be enough to fight off the invading ranks of lactose-free lattes and cinnamon buns.

The stunning Cosmopolitan apartment building around the corner with its offering

CIRCA 1975

The square has been a shabby backdrop to the modern business and residential towers shooting up around it of upscale restaurants maybe a window into the square’s future. Designed by German architect Helmut Jahn and situated on the site of the former Serdyna synagogue, its offer of luxury in the heart of the city brings new consumers to the area with different needs and expectations; consumers who will inevitably see the hardware stores as curious anachronisms.

The closure this year of the Jewish Theater next door was a blow to the neighbourhood’s post-war Jewish micro-community. Whether the developer’s promise of a new Jewish theater in the office tower to be built on the site will be a fair replacement is hard to say. Meanwhile, on the eastern side, the uber-trendy bakery Charlotte’s nod on its awnings to the previous Jewish tenant is either lip service to win over critics or a genuine respect for the culture and history of the space they occupy. The future is hard to predict.

Balancing the march of progress are the PRL blocks of Bagno and Twarda and the Za Żelazną Bramą monoliths to the north and west, which could act as bastions against the wave of gentrification. In fact, the sight of white-collar workers sharing the square on sunny afternoons with the less affluent residents of the nearby blocks might suggest an inclusivity. What is certain, though, is that Plac Grzybowski is changing, so buckle up and enjoy the ride. warsawinsider.pl

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TRAVEL POZNAŃ

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MISSION IM-POZ-IBLE

Commonly understood as being conventional and conformist, the city of Poznań has discovered a new lust for life...

BY ALEX WEBBER | PHOTOS BY ED WIGHT

HOME & AWAY Poznań sits 310 km directly west of Warsaw making it an easy three hour drive from the capital. Several trains run approximately every 90 minutes with journey time currently extended to about 3hrs 30 mins. Getting to town: having traversed the spanking new station, the positive vibes vanish once you get ripped off by one of the taxi goons outside – use Uber instead. Getting back: don’t do as the photographer did and end up in Berlin.

40 WINKS Poznań is a city that likes to do business, and as such there’s no shortage of bland chain hotels serving up characterless comfort for the nomadic salesman. For something a bit nutty, then the Blow-Up Hall 5050 was once described by The Guardian as being ‘the most futuristic hotel in the world’. As much of a contemporary art installation as it is a hotel, the downer is that not all rooms warrant the rather steep price points. Myself, I’m a Puro convert: with much emphasis placed on tech (room functions are all iPad this, iPad that), it’s a little too clever for its own good, but nonetheless the location is central, the bar is open 24hrs and the living space in the lobby looks straight out of Wallpaper*. >

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SITES & SIGHTS Many are content to just wander the tight grid of streets that comprise the Old Town, and there’s certainly nothing wrong in stopping at just that. Doing so, though, forgets the city’s richer glories: start at the Zamek – commissioned

by Wilhelm II, it’s Europe’s youngest castle. Remodeled at Hitler’s behest, it’s now a fully functioning cultural center whose highlights include a sober museum chronicling the 1956 Poznań Uprising – the Eastern Bloc’s first armed rebellion against the communist regime. Further on, the Commonwealth Cemetery in Citadel Park contains a memorial to Allied pilots shot during The Great Escape, as well as the grave of Roger Bushell, the leader of the breakout. Porta Posnania, meanwhile, dubs itself an ‘interactive heritage center’ and tells the story of the glorious Cathedral Island through the heavy use of multimedia technology. Back to the Old Town, and the Croissant Museum is essential – built around a cooking demonstration that involves medieval swords and audience participation, it’s hands-on, wholesome and quite often hilarious.

MUST KNOW As if the town hall in the center of the Rynek wasn’t picturesque enough, an added attraction are a pair of mechanical goats that appear each day at noon from the clock tower before knocking their heads together. The back story: in

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1511 a pair of goats destined for the dinner table escaped from the town hall kitchen and romped up the tower. The public were so amused that a pair of mechanized animals were added a century later to honor the episode.

INSIDE TIP Having visited Cathedral Island, continue over the arcing shape of Most Jordana to hit the district of Śródka. Lined with dilapidated pre-war tenements, the main street and its offshoots have seen an outbreak of quirky hangouts that have injected the area with the kind of shabby-chic atmosphere that comes as a prelude to gentrification – get here while you can. Of the dozen or so bars and cafes, Cafe La Ruina is credited with jump-starting the area and comes with a cluttered, rundown charm that’s impossible to resist.

The pick of the bunch though is Dom Na Śródce – white and minimal but with plenty of little retro designer-ish quirks, it’s the kind of place where graphic illustrators convene for Flat White and carrot cake or a rhubarb IPA. After, don’t miss the weird 3D mural on ul. Filipińska. Previously nominated by National Geographic as one of the 7 Wonders of Poland, it depicts a fairy tale Old Town and is riddled with cool details (spot the trumpeter on the roof).

WAITER! The food scene is maturing, though the Old Town appears

specifically mined to maim unwitting foreigners. For the best results, head yonder: dubbed ‘a concept by Robert Mielyżyński’ (does the name ring a bell?), The Time features sophisticated cuisine, a peerless wine list and a chic cigar room and whisky bar. Equally refined, MUGA is Poznań’s fine dining choice, while A Nóż Widelec reinterprets Polish food in a swank, modern way. For something more familiar, then Whiskey In The Jar is an American rock bar / steak restaurant concept that’s casual, fun, and the kind of place where the staff have been trained to use words like ‘awesome’ all the time. It’s in Old Town, but you’ll live.

REFUELING If you’re the ‘safety first’ type then the Brovaria microbrewery on the Old Town square impresses with its consistency, modern design and international feel. Specializing in the beer of Belgium, Kriek could just as well be called Creak for all its wobbly wooden fittings: compact and atmospheric, it’s made all the better by the presence of the owner – bear-like in stature, consider Sławek to be the epitome of hospitality. For craft beer aficionados, the scene thrives in and around Żydowska street, though the best pub of all is around the corner on Wroniecka.

Featuring an all-year courtyard, Ministerstwo Browaru is a well-established legend.

It’s the kind of place where graphic illustrators convene for Flat White and carrot cake

AT A GLANCE 1956 Uprising Museum wmn.poznan.pl A Nóż Widelec anozwidelec.com Blow-Up Hall 5050 blowuphall5050.com Brovaria brovaria.pl Cafe La Ruina laruina.pl Croissant Museum rogalowemuzeum.pl Dom Na Śródce fb.com/domnasrodce

Kriek fb.com/kriek.poznan Ministerstwo Browaru ministerstwo-browaru.ontap.pl MUGA restauracjamuga.pl Porta Posnania bramapoznania.pl Puro purohotel.pl Whiskey In The Jar whiskeyinthejar.pl/poznan The Time mlynska12.pl

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Mariusz Palarczykowi’s mission has been to showcase the traditional flavor of Polish pastries to an audience of both foreigners and locals. This he has done using homemade recipes with each item kneaded, molded and decorated by hand. Our confectionery is also made in house, using only fresh cheese and homemade preserves.

Treated as works of art, our cakes and pastries are one-of-a-kind.

O P E N I N G T I M E S : M o n d a y - S u n d a y 1 0 : 0 0 - 2 0 : 0 0 P u Ĺ‚ a w s k a 1 0 4 , Wa r s a w ( + 4 8 ) 2 2 8 4 4 4 4 4 3 i n f o @ c u k i e r n i a s t a r y d o m . p l w w w. c u k i e r n i a s t a r y d o m . p l

Sp Par ot tne lig r ht

Local Tastes

Bar Przesady is... a downtown bar offering traditional Polish cuisine inside a fun, modern interior. What do we mean by traditional cuisine? Nothing but the best dumplings, borsch, chicken soup and potato pancakes. Join us for traditional local breakfasts, or turn up later for podpłomyk – a unique, pizza-styled flatbread. Of course, we’ve also got plenty of interesting beers: why not check them out during our weekday happy hours (4 p.m. to 8 p.m.)? You’ve got no excuse, our prices are accessible to all pockets!

Bez Przesady ul. Piękna 56

Newsflash! Targ Śniadaniowy are happy to announce new, warmer digs in time for autumn: moving into the glass-roofed Fort Sokolnicki inside Żoliborz’s Park Żeromskiego, the ‘breakfast market’ will continue to operate as a source of top quality groceries not to mention as an assembly point for some of the top street food stalls in the capital! Open on selected weekends only, find them on Facebook for further details.

Up & Running!

Held over the course of the first weekend in October, the opening party of N58 saw the beautiful people of Warsaw dancing till dawn to deep vocal house, mash-ups and, even, a star turn by Marcin from Voice of Poland. Accompanied by a laser and LED show, this weekend to remember was a fitting preview of what is set to become one of Warsaw’s top ‘prestige clubs’. We look forward to seeing you!

N58 ul. Nowy Świat 58

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The Big Smoke

Unique to Poland, at MOMU a one-of-its-kind smoker has won the hearts of a city!

t

here aren’t many more satisfying ways to conclude a meal than by slugging back a cocktail and then setting the empty down next to a board piled high with bits and bones and meaty debris – it is, if nothing else, the evidence of a successful feast. Clear in its concept and execution, at MOMU the onus is placed on food, people and good times – a combination that’s helped make it a beacon of quality on a crowded field.

So the food first: that’s a menu dominated by meat that’s cooked using the only smoker of its kind in Poland. Comforting and strangely familiar, these are tastes reminiscent of campfire nights: big, brawny, smoky tastes – towering Reuben sandwiches, juicy steaks, flawless bone marrow and wooden slabs brimming with meats from MOMU’s smokehouse. And then there’s the duck: considered a signature of the house, find yours served on a bed of cherry blossom, orange and grapefruit. With their ingredients sourced locally, it’s a place that embraces simplicity and nature. Nonetheless, there are some complications: take, for example, dessert – noone should leave without first loosening their belts and ordering the extravagant chocolate souffle. It’s the very definition of indulgence.

With so much going right in the kitchen, it makes sense that the atmosphere follows.

Always lively, find the sprawling, industrial interior festooned with artwork presenting the works of Poland’s upcoming painters, illustrators, sculptors and designers. And if any added impetus was needed, find that provided by a daily program of musical performances. You won’t regret visiting us!

MOMU ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, momu.pl

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Redefining Elegant Dining

Created by the same team behind Stixx Bar & Grill, the newly opened Inspire Lounge offers contemporary European cuisine made using the highest quality, seasonal ingredients. Prepared by an international team of chefs, the stylish cuisine is matched by a range of exhilarating cocktails and refined wines. A roster of DJs and live performances ensures the perfect ambiance is delivered inside this chic, sophisticated space.

Inspire Lounge Pl. Europejski 4A, tel. 22 340 4049, info@inspirelounge.pl / events@inspirelounge.pl, inspirelounge.pl

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S H E E S H A , AU T H E N T I C C U I S I N E , D R I N KS , M E E T I N G P L AC E

d o m - f a r a o n a . c o m , O r d y n a c k a 13

EAT!

PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

KOREAN TIME?

One of the biggest buzzes of the month has been created by Koreanka, a tight cubbyhole that’s scuffed, informal and fashionably ramshackle. Such has been the stir, diners arrive in the knowledge that they’ll be scavenging a table and eating what little might be leftover from another sell-out day. Yet here’s the point of contention: is it really all that it’s cracked up to be? The kimchi is exemplary, but not everything works so well. Though raved about by Warsaw’s Instagrammers and bloggers, we were left ultimately disenchanted by the bulgogi – empty, shallow tastes featuring zero zip and blast.

Koreanka ul. Koszykowa 59

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Eat! Tasting Menu

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N31 by Robert Sowa ul. Nowogrodzka 31, n31restaurant.pl

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een there, done it all. That’s Robert Sowa, a national treasure widely hailed for modernizing Poland’s gastronomic sector back in the country’s culinary dark days. A common sight on TV, the chef ’s public profile has meant there’s no shortage of bums on seats in his flagship restaurant, but does his chic city center bubble live up to the hype? There’s nothing like a tasting menu to find out...

Course 1 BEEF TARTAR The yardstick of any restaurant in Poland is its tartar. Served with a shot of Ostoya vodka, here it comes with a curl of lard and a subtle peppery kick.

First test passed with flying colors!

Course 2 TUNA (opposite: left) Formerly the chef for the Polish national football side, Sowa’s international travels are reflected by surprises such as this: flawless tuna comes partnered with kabayaki sauce, yuzu, wasabi dressing and turnip salad. Brilliant flavor combinations.

Course 3 SWEETBREAD The scary bit proves anything but: a double act of creamy veal sweetbread and black pudding works well against an apple puree and oyster mushroom.

Course 4 OCTOPUS (opposite: top right) Seafood heaven: a coil of octopus shows up alongside shrimp, calamari, truffle puree and an aioli dressing. Things are getting seriously good here...

Course 5 WELSH LAMB (opposite: bottom right) Following a palate cleansing gooseberry sorbet, next up is the kind of lamb that makes you weep: perfect in every respect, find it given admirable backing by an accompaniment of foie gras and and beetroot.

Course 6 CHOCOLATE GATEAU A storming finish comes courtesy of an elaborate cone of chocolate served up with coconut ice cream, Oreo dust and a swirl of orange & grapefruit mousse. If my doctor approved I’d eat this every day. If only...

Overall Complex but understandable, the menu at N31 reflects well on a chef scaling new peaks. If you thought this might be a case of a man trading on his past then think again: in an increasingly competitive sector, consider N31 one of the more impressive fine dining experiences in Warsaw. (AW)

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PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

Eat! Review

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Koko & Roy ul. Wilcza 43, kokoandroywarsaw.com

UNITED TASTES OF AMERICA

Koko & Roy break new ground in Warsaw with a modern menu that speaks of now...

H

ere’s your challenge for the day: seek out as many Poles as you can and then ask them to define American food. Chances are the answers will range from burgers and stretch all the way to more burgers – in a nutshell, it’s a long shot that you’ll hear much else. But that’s exactly why the menu at Koko & Roy reads like such a pleasure: if you’re expecting Warsaw’s latest American joint to be a mundane repeat of what’s gone before then you’re in for a jolt.

Of course, there is a burger concealed amid the choices, but it’s strikingly overshadowed by alternative options that immediately catch the eye. Take the Odds & Ends, item No. 1 on what’s a moderately sized menu. As an opening gambit, its bold, unexpected and utterly delicious: a heap of deep fried pigs ears and chicken hearts tumbled into a big bowl and served with pickled red onions and a lash of garlic / sriracha aioli. All crunch and crackle, its a dish best enjoyed with a pint of craft ale.

Opposite: Sputnik lights, intriguing artwork and mustard-toned finishes – an interior that gets it right.

Top left: beetroot salad, pork chop and a pint of something lovely.

Top right: Odds & Ends, a celebration of the fifth quarter.

Spotlighting ‘New American Cuisine’, the thrust here is on comfort food, albeit several steps beyond what you’d rustle up at home: salad means roasted beetroot, burnt orange slices, pickled cherries and walnuts served among glistening fresh greens. Much like the colors, the tastes are as vivid and vibrant as a crisp autumn day. To go alongside, there’s a pork chop drizzled with an anchovy vinaigrette – such is the flavor you finish gnawing on the bone and clearing the plate. And then there’s dessert, a final grand salvo that sees the entry of a lump of chocolate pudding the size of a baseball: screw the calorie count and eat to enjoy.

And enjoy it you will. The work of an American / Polish husband and wife, Koko & Roy feels fun, innovative and pleasingly casual – a bit like visiting friends who really know how to cook. Much like visiting friends, alcohol too also plays its part: in this case, generous cocktails made to New York specifications. The bottom line? Here’s an America you want to get to know. (AW) warsawinsider.pl

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Eat! Review

A SECOND LOOK

A

s has come to be the norm, the thing I most enjoy isn’t mine to eat: fish soup, as ordered by my dining sidekick, proves to be divine. How would I have guessed? Modestly described as a mere ‘fish soup with zander and catfish’, it sounds like the sort of thing I’d normally avoid. The first inkling that I’ve got it wrong comes on its delivery: below a halved breadstick sprinkled with red caviar sits a deep, rust-colored soup complete with a decorative oyster. Warm and inviting, just that fiery complexion has a hypnotic effect: dispensing entirely of etiquette, I plunge my spoon in without waiting for permission. The reward for my impudence and daring is immediate: rich, thick

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Above Left: Fillet mignon & bone marrow Above Right: Fish soup with zander and catfish

and ringing with flavor, I’m hooked after one taste.

Of course, first appearances are often deceptive, so to ensure my initial judgement is correct I devour it all in the interests of research. “Sorry,” I shrug to my companion, “but all’s fair in love and Warsaw.”

The result of a laborious 48-hour cooking process involving fish heads and tails, this bouillabaisse-style broth is something to remember. Forget soup of the day, this is the soup of the year: really, it’s that good.

Yet despite the seemingly insurmountable height of this benchmark, there is much else that also comes together: Mazurian crayfish served in a creamy sauce of rowan berry and brandy cause a similar outbreak of unconfined joy. Then, octopus, firm but

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

After impressing last year, have Mokotowska 69 maintained their early form?

Mokotowska 69 ul. Mokotowska 69, mokotowska69.com

Seafood is not the sole strength.

As the separate steak menu suggests, meat is serious business here

tender and set on a scattering of cherry tomatoes and small spring potatoes: simple, delicious.

Seafood is not the sole strength. As the separate steak menu suggests, meat is serious business here. A filet mignon, kindly chaperoned by a bone marrow, enters the fray to a hero’s reception. By the time we’ve finished doing the whole Instagram food porn thing, a small pool of blood has leaked from this meaty piece of greatness: it is our cue to tear into this animal and rebel against the city’s growing vegan culture – sure, cows look good in a field, but when they taste this good they’re even better on a plate.

And yes, you heard that right – here it’s about plates (praise the lord!), not wooden boards or rescued

Clockwise from top left: Crayfish with rowan berry and brandy sauce Octopus and cherry tomatoes Caramelized plums, crumble and ice cream

planks of wood. Food is served the way it actually should be. At least most of it is. Dessert, found lurking within a miniature saucepan, is a velvety sensation of caramelized plums, ice cream and crumble.

Given the infantile joy this sweet, sinful goo provides, the saucepan feels apt and correct.

But then, so does everything about Mokotowska 69. Found inside a rotund pavilion (you may, unfortunately, remember it as the downcast Adler restaurant), it’s a place that’s fully reflective of the food: upmarket and classic, with a menu from the straight and narrow school of cooking – no detours down silly paths, it’s sensible, it’s mature, it’s what Warsaw doesn’t have enough of. (AW) warsawinsider.pl

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Eat! Market Review

As the legendary BioBazar prepares to temporarily move to pastures new, we take a parting look at this local hero...

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PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

MARKET MOVEMENTS

BioBazar ul. Ĺťelazna 51/53, biobazar.com.pl

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Eat! Market Review

“... the chief inducement is a market, that, as the name might suggest, shines a light on ecologically certified goods and produce”

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wouldn’t normally drink under a tarpaulin, but there’s something magical about seeing in dusk at Alterwina.

Redolent of one of Budapest’s ‘ruin bars’, there’s an ad hoc, accidental charm to it all; with the evening sky streaked with crimson slashes, and the last sunlight sloping weakly down, there’s no better time to enjoy a crisp Chardonnay. But where to find this diamond in the rough? BioBazar, of course.

Created in 2010, the BioBazar preempted Warsaw’s love of farmers’ markets and sparked a citywide trend that shows no sign of slowing. Though the copycats that have followed have been copious in number, none match the original in either size or scope. From humble beginnings when 30 traders were persuaded to set up stalls within its confines, BB has grown to house over 110 vendors and a number of assorted distractions: a shipping container converted into a cult photo gallery, culinary workshops, a vegan bistro and a pungent pop-up coffee store that crowds with yummy mummys. “Good coffee,” asserts the sign on the door, “is a human right.” Quite. All dust and wobbles and easy conversation, you could linger for hours, and indeed, many choose to do that.

But let’s not muck about here: as welcome as all the

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extras are, the chief inducement is a market, that, as the name might suggest, shines a light on ecologically certified goods and produce. Fresh fish, cheese, eggs, bread, cured sausages, honey... on it goes. Comprehensive in its pitch, everything you need to pursue a bright, happy life is here on this spot. Adding a pinch of fairy dust to the experience is a location in the skeletal carcass of the 19th century Norblin factory. Left abandoned in the 80s, the drafty halls and potholed surfaces add to the raw, gritty atmosphere: muddy crates of farm fresh veg and brightly colored jams and preserves rub shoulders next to random bits of leftover machinery. Eccentric and highly personal, it’s a lively tangle of sights and sounds and olfactory sensations. Rightly hailed as a local institution, it’s a place that celebrates the right way to live.

Now though, you’re in the last chance saloon to enjoy it in its current format. With Norblin earmarked for a substantial redevelopment, the BioBazar will function at its current address till mid-November, after which it’ll temporarily move to ul. Wołoska 3 (official launch: Nov 25th). While it’ll return to its spiritual home in approximately three years time, the chance to catch it in its existing framework should not to be missed. (AW)

Open Weds 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.; Fri 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.; Sat 8 a.m. to 4 p.m.

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Eat! Review

AN AUTUMN ACE

Strefa’s seasonal menu hits the bullseye...

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I

f there’s a dining room in heaven, then it probably looks like Strefa – only marginally less white. Pure and pristine, the swan-like elegance of the interior whispers dignity and decorum. From the first point of entry, it’s a place that achieves every restaurants goal of offering diners that floaty feeling of total escape – for a moment, life pauses.

As a venue, there’s much to like about Strefa. The location alone places it in the heart of an area that’s reaping the results of a patient revival: on the one side, Pl. Grzybowski, a tree-fringed square shadowed by the cut glass forms of two modern towers; on the other, Próżna street, a pre-war survivor delivered from decay by one of Warsaw’s few truly

Clockwise from above: Crème brulee with saffron, meringue, chocolate soil and pumpkin / bacon ice cream

Strefa ul. Próżna 9, restauracjastrefa.pl

successful attempts at regeneration. Then there’s the ambience: immaculate and refined, it’s a soothing atelier with a rarefied air. Mostly though, it’s the food that people talk about.

Citing Nordic cuisine as his primary influence, chef Łukasz Andruszkiewicz has honed a menu of note: carefully diced and expertly arranged, the gravlax tartar is nuanced and delicate, the kind of introductory act that earns instant respect. A deep and soothing mushroom soup is next, its flavors, earthy and distinct, bringing to mind Poland’s dark autumn forests. What impresses, though, is the balance. Never overwhelming, it does enough to stimulate the palate whilst feeling subtle and light.

In this vein it continues: tuna steak, on a bed

Mushroom soup with smoked plum and smoked cream cheese Lamb chops, millet, kale, black salsify, rosemary, mint

of bulgur, is presented with a flourish of greens and dabs of pumpkin mousse; for the other main course, lamb chops are pretty and pink and plated with roasted rosemary and black salsify. The tastes are clear and true and say much for a chef that has his brain switched on. And then there’s the finish: this is no ordinary crème brulee, it’s a stairway to heaven laddered with chocolate soil, seasonal fruit and meringue – next to it all, a quenelle of pumpkin / bacon ice cream provides a touch of whimsy.

Of course, Strefa is not cheap (for starters, the mid-point is zł. 45, whilst mains top out in the high 90s), but then good things rarely are – and have no doubt, Strefa isn’t just good, it’s a couple of notches north. (AW) warsawinsider.pl

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Excellent Mediterranean cuisine, a n i n t i m a t e V I P r o o m a n d a k i d ’s c o r n e r. . .

And also a cocktail bar!

O u r b a r t e n d e r s A r t u r & Ku b a a r e e x p e r t s a t making masterpieces tailor-made to our customers specifications! ul. Rydygiera 13 tel. 508 13 13 19 eatandmeet.com.pl w w w. f a c e b o o k . c o m / E a t A n d M e e t R e s t a u r a n t Wa r s a w

EAT! Listings By in large, you can expect to pay between zł. 20-35 for starters, and zł.

35-70 for mains. Expect those prices to double in the case of the city’s fine dining venues. Those wishing to cut costs should seek out the weekday business lunch deals now offered by most restaurants. When tipping, 10-20% is considered polite though be aware of automatic service charges in some venues.

2016 Best of Warsaw Award Winner BEST OF WARSAW 2016 KEY WINNERS Fine Dining - Nolita Casual Dining - MOD Upscale Casual - Dyletanci & Rozbrat20 Modern Polish - Mała Polana Smaków

american 51 bakeries 51 balkan 52 british 52 burgers & street food 53 chinese 53 fine dining 53 french 55 georgian 55 greek & turkish 55 hawaiian 56 hungarian 56 indian 56 indonesian 56 international 59 italian 65 japanese & sushi 66 jewish 68 korean 68 latin & spanish 69 mexican 69 middle eastern 74 polish 75 russian 80 scandinavian 80 seafood 80 specialty food shops 80 steak houses 82 thai 82 vegan 83 vietnamese 84

american Brooklyn Restaurant & Bar Gone are the fancy pants culinary creations once found in the basement, ousted in favor of a menu of pimped-up soul and street food, salads and steaks.

This means fresh tacos not to mention the best-selling ‘Mito’s Beef Ribs’. The ground floor burger bar is more prosaic, offering a standard line-up of burgers and wings.

(C4) Al. Jana Pawła II 18 (Rondo ONZ), tel. 22 114 3434, brooklynbw.eu

STEAKHOUSE /BAR

Hard Rock Café Instantly recognizable by the giant neon guitar outside, Hard Rock has a pierced staff of skater boys and rock girls and a menu that is, if nothing else, completely reliable. Peruse rock’n’roll swag that includes Joplin’s blouse, Prince’s guitar and Shakira’s pants. (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, hardrockcafe.pl

Koko & Roy How’s this for a makeover – what was formerly Bacio, a grotto-style den festooned with fairground trinkets, has reemerged as a smart eatery with a warm, pared-down design that’s ripe for modern times. American-owned, it’s a place that seeks to present a different side to US-cuisine: not the run-of-the-mill fare found in two-bob burger joints, rather homespun dishes cooked with elan. Thus far, the ‘odds & ends’ (fried pig ear, chicken hearts and sriracha aioli) have been the big hit. Equally suited for after-work drinks, the cocktails are first class. (D5) ul. Wilcza 43

bakeries Aromat That many consider this their favorite bakery says it all. French flour and an expert baker ensure brilliant results, while the lemon éclairs deserve their own Facebook page. (C4) ul. Sienna 39, fb.com/ piekarnia.aromat Café Vincent Queues build quickly as locals line

Nowogrodzka 47a www.beefandpepper.pl reservation: (+48) 785 025 025 Open 7 days a week Monday-Saturday: 12.00-24.00 Sunday: 12.00-23.00

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EAT! Listings up to buy baguettes, cinnamon rolls, lemon croissants and beautiful pains au chocolat. But people don’t just head in then out, a small wine list and brilliant people spying opportunities cause many to hang around. (D3) ul. Nowy Świat 64

Paul Specializing in pastries, baguettes and other baked goods, this French chain have rapidly entrenched themselves in the capital following their debut last year.

Various locations, boulangeries-paul.com

Charlotte While the fancy crowd isn’t to everyone’s liking, the atmosphere feels truly continental: even more so in warm weather when the terrace packs out. (D6) Al. Wyzwolenia 18 (enter from pl. Zbawiciela), bistrocharlotte.com

Qki QKI is the work of two sisters (in-law!) with a passion for the sweeter things in life. Shunning shortcuts and artificial nasties, cookies, cakes and pastries comprise the bulk of the offer here. ul. Topiel 19 & ul.

Belgradzka 14, qki.waw.pl

Rozbrat 20 Bakery & Wine Corner Best known for fathering Butchery & Wine, Daniel Pawełek makes his mark on Powiśle with the launch of Rozbrat 20, a high-end bakery that’s worthy of the rave reviews. Breakfast here is among the best you’ll find in Warsaw. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 20, rozbrat20.com.pl SAM Co-owner Małgorzata Kusina-Doran is a fine-bread connoisseur, honing her skills at a bread-making course chaired

by Raymond Blanc. While SAM have expanded to cover numerous locations, this has not been to the cost of the overall quality. many locations, sam.info.pl Zdrowa Konkurencja Aside from piping hot, fresh wheels of bread, visitors are popping in to collect readymade bagels and sandwiches loaded with pulled pork, pastrami and other quick bites. (C2) Pl. Bankowy 4 (Note: closed at Press Time)

balkan Ba Adriatico As a starter, then the grilled peppers stuffed with creamy, regional cheese are irresistible. But then so too the octopus salad. Mains are a victory of simplicity, with dishes like skewered minced beef served with a bitey sauce and a soft, pillowy Lepinja bread. Yet ignore Thursday seafood night at your peril. Croatian-run, this neighborhood spot has an unassuming air that belies the general quality. (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 50/52, ba-adriatico.pl Banja Luka Lots of clunky timber and imported ceramics set the scene at this eatery, a Balkan stalwart that’s known for its economical pricing structure and bulky portions. Grilled meats are prominent and the food largely reliable. (E8) ul. Szkolna 2/4, tel. 22 828 1060, banjaluka.pl

british Ę Rybę A couple of places have tried to emulate the taste of the British seaside, but this

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EAT! Listings is the de facto codfather. Here’s a spot where the chips are golden, the fish fresh and the batter crisp and light. Now also serving British breakfast, albeit at a time when most normal people will have already eaten. (E4) Al. Jana Pawła II 18, erybe.pl

burgers & street food Barn Burger Retaining a loyal crowd ever since their 2012 entry on the burger circuit, Barn Burger offer a loud and lively atmosphere and much celebrated burgers with goofy names like Heart Attack and Muppet.

The list by the door notes the results of their American-style eating competitions / greed-fests. (D4) ul. Złota 9. tel. 512 157 567, barnburger.pl Beef’N’Roll If the wheels have fallen off the burger craze then no-one told Beef’N’Roll.

Originating as a food truck, their success has been such that a fixed venue was required. Everything about the food and drink suggests quality is the main consideration. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel.

531 707 070, beefnroll.pl Burger Bar Warsaw has come full-circle: years after burgers briefly starred as the national food, it’s the original burger joint that still bosses the field. ul. Puławska 974/80 (enter from Olkuska) & ul. Krucza 41/43, burgerbar.waw.pl Meat Warsaw This project sees a cosmic 1960s rotunda revived as a compact eatery whose brief menu is butch and brawny and comfortably familiar: Philly cheese steak served inside fresh pitta bread; Polish white sausage in a thick corn sauce; and boczek that’s soft in parts and crackly in others – lathered in a thick gloss of plum glaze, it’s a dish that sets off fireworks.

(C4) Corner of ul. E. Plater / Świętokrzyska, fb.com/meatwarsaw Okienko When the chips are down and you’re looking for emergency nourishment, then

join the queue outside Okienko: serving Belgian-style frites in paper cones, this street-side hatch is a true window of life. The roster of sauces, written up in marker pen on the wall tiles, are often supberb. With the financial transaction sealed, enjoy your winnings on their small outdoor terrace. (D7) ul. Polna 22 Pogromcy Meatów Yearn no more for the elusive flavor of the backyard BBQ. Specializing in grilled meat, find exactly just that loaded into artisan buns alongside locally grown greens. The sense of homespun quality makes this the kind of comfort food that Warsaw has been missing for years. (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, tel. 505 703 508 Warburger While Warsaw has lost its appetite for burgers, you wouldn’t necessarily tell by popping in WarBurger. Set inside a diminutive cabin, join the scrum for jazzed-up burgers that use slow-food ingredients. If not the best, they’re most certainly up there. (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1, warburger.pl

chinese Pańska 85 Ample in size, the interiors speak of money well spent. This is especially true because despite the luxury trimmings Pańska looks good without ever losing its dignity.

With their kitchen staff headhunted from across China, the food sets a standard that has yet to be seen in any Chinese restaurant in Warsaw: there’s delicate salmon rolls wrapped in mango; dim sum that are pouches of pure goodness; and Sichuan-style pork that’s a blaze of sizzle and spice. The Beijing Duck, carved and served table-side, is the highlight. (B4) ul.

Pańska 85, panska85.com Regina Bar Stepping past a pair of flowing red drapes at the entrance, guests are ushered in to discover an eclectic world that marries the tastes of New York’s Little Italy to Chinatown next door. This is done excellently with the menu presenting the very essence of ethnic comfort food: General

Tso’s chicken, Cantonese roast duck and light, leopard-spotted pizzas. Brought to you by the makers of MOD, it’s therefore natural that the original style extends to kooky interiors tinged with a trace of retro: a tall mirrored wall and the kind of sparkling chandelier last seen in Boogie Nights. (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, fb.com/ Reginabar Rico’s Concept Never let a name fool you. While Rico’s might sound more like a Mexican food truck, the reality presents a former bathhouse luxuriously decorated with hand-painted Majolica, swanky fittings and even a shimmery pool. The menu has won plaudits around town for its stunning authenticity. ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście16/18 To Tu Dumpling Bar A shabby looking shack cabin, To Tu offer what are seriously considered some of the best – if not the best – dim sum in town. Magic-ked up by a Manchurian exile, the experience isn’t unlike being in a sweaty back street haunt in Asia. And that’s a good thing! ul. Niekłańska 33, chinskapierogarnia.pl

fine dining Amber Room at the Sobański Palace Set in the pre-war Pałac Sobańskich, this wedding white manor house is the epitome of luxury: plush, discreet, elegant and serene, it unwraps like the most beautiful of presents – a network of corridors and stairwells take guests through a series of rooms and side-chambers.

Impossibly almost, the food measures up to the surrounds. For mains, the sea trout is spectacular, arriving alongside creamy root parsley and fried cubed cucumbers.

(E6) Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, amberroom.pl Atelier Amaro The recipient of Poland’s first Michelin star, Atelier promotes pedigree Polish produce enhanced by modern techniques, with courses interspersed by occasionally bizarre interludes (leaves, flowers, twigs, etc.). It’s an extraordinary dining experience, and one which confirms the growing cult of Wojciech Amaro. In warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings the hours you’re here the world stops and you leave feeling like James Bond.

Reservations are mandatory, but this is a restaurant that tops the foodie bucket list. (E6) ul. Agrykola 1, tel. 22 628 5747, atelieramaro.pl

Belvedere Łazienki Królewskie Set in an imperial age glass orangery, it’s festooned with intricate latticework and botanical exotica. The updated interiors are the work of acclaimed set designer Boris Kudlicka, and lend a fresh, contemporary tone that goes hand in hand with the menu. But behind the gels and emulsions and pretty little swirls, this is cooking of substantial depth; it’s cooking that takes you to the very soul of Polish nature. ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. 22 558 6701, belvedere.com.pl Chłodna 15 Unrecognizable from its previous incarnation, the restaurant wing of what was, until recently, La Maison, has undergone a considerable refurbishment to lend it more gravitas. The big change, however, is the food: the daily changing menu has been purposefully kept limited, allowing chef Arek Wilamowski’s crew to keep standards high. On our visit, that meant a sophisticated French duck pate in

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croute cake with raspberry jam and long pepper; and cod fillet a la Grenobloise.

It’s already being talked about as a Michelin candidate. (B3) ul. Chłodna 15 L’enfant Terrible Looking like he’s just swaggered in from a rock concert, the unconventional style of Michał Bryś goes beyond surface detail alone. Promising maximum excitement, his imaginative menu isn’t short on daring twists and rollercoaster highs.

Maverick in every sense of the word, this is a chef that pushes boundaries in a way few others would dare. Though the menu changes often, keep an eye on recurring classics such as ‘tomatoes, tomatoes, tomatoes’, a kickass course that presents the humble tomato in about ten different forms! More informal than the other top bracket restaurants, the brainwashed loyalty of Enfant’s fans says much for it. (D8) ul. Sandomierska 13 (enter from Rejtana), tel. 22 119 5705, eterrible.pl N31 One of the original pioneers of modern Polish cooking returns with renewed vigor. That’s Robert Sowa, and his N31 restaurant has already made a massive splash with an upmarket, showbizzy crowd enjoying complex cooking amid a luxurious interior of pristine linen and glinting tableware. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 31, n31restaurant.pl

Nolita BEST WAWA 2016 “Fine Dining” The deluxe dining scene is filling out in Warsaw, and there’s now a few restaurants that can present an equitable claim for the No. 1 spot. However, it’s Nolita that perch at the top, with a menu that sees largely classical recipes through a sharp, modern prism – chef Jacek Grochowina has created a place that’s coherent and understandable without sacrificing values of innovation. Looking chic and high end, the tastes and sensations in this restaurant are thrilling: diners are left speechless by the tuna tartar, while the aged beef fillet is an Insider mainstay.

(D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 292 0424, nolita.pl Platter by Karol Okrasa It’s a fact that Okrasa’s appearances in the kitchen are fleeting and rare, but that’s done nothing to hurt this restaurant’s prestige. Head chef Łukasz Pielak has proved to be a lethal assassin, executing the ideas of his mentor with accuracy and passion. The cooking is detailed, balanced and elegant, with the highlight of our visit being deer in plum sauce. A thing of imperial, velvety richness it’s a dish that turns up the volume on a memorable experience. (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (Hotel InterContinental Warsaw), warsaw.intercontinental.com

EAT! Listings Salto Fine dining gets a South American makeover thanks to Martin Gimenez Castro, an Argentinean who has emerged as one of the most influential chefs in Poland. While some critics grumble that Warsaw’s top end scene has flat-lined, Salto push the envelope in terms of breaking boundaries and probing new ground. Light, fresh and full of zing, the ceviche is a must, as is a delve around the Sunday steak menu. Desserts, meanwhile, are among the most inventive in town: a brilliant demonstration of Castro’s passion and personality, order the ‘Childhood / Irresponsible / Fantasy / Fun’ and you’ll understand what we mean. (D5) ul. Wilcza 73 (enter from Emilii Plater), tel. 22 584 8771, saltorestauracja.pl Senses Andrea Camastra’s Michelin-starred tasting menu is a succession of impossible highs and makes a big deal of scientific methods and culinary advances. Full of theater and unpredictable flourishes (billowing mists, imaginative presentation, edible cigars...), this restaurant is never short on dare and dazzle. (C2) ul. Bielańska 12, tel. 22 331 9697, sensesrestaurant.pl Signature You feel a millionaire just being here: we’ve heard the interiors described as a ‘Monegasque state of mind’, and that’s not a bad way to surmise a décor that’s all about friezes and reliefs dated from the time this was the Soviet Embassy, lavish 1950s Oswald chairs, lighting by Serge Mouille and original Marilyn photos shot by the acclaimed Milton Greene.

Food-wise the restaurant makes a massive splash with a menu that’s clever, creative and pretty. Count on Signature’s seasonally changing desserts providing a happy ending. (D5) ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 55 38755, signaturerestaurant.pl

french Bistro la Cocotte With access through a shadowy courtyard, the sensation you’re stepping inside a little secret is a pleasure in itself.

Presenting itself in a riot of red and white gingham Cocotte feels warm and intimate, a factor aided by a small open kitchen

and the atmosphere of home. The menu, chalked up on the blackboard, is a flexible affair that makes use of the ingredients at hand, and is divided into a smattering of light bites, desserts and plat du jour. (D6) ul. Mokotowska 12, tel. 664 906 000 L’Arc Looking elegant with its black/white floors and subtle decorations bills at L’Arc can become big number affairs – especially if you hanker for seafood. Pick from numerous types of oysters, or delve into the fish tank for the lobster of your choosing. The catchment area extends beyond the borders of Mokotów, not just because of their ‘fresh from France’ seafood, but because of classic dishes such as Mulard duck and Burgundy snails.

(E8) ul. Puławska 16, larc.pl

washed down with a mouthwash-colored tarragon lemonade. (D4) ul. Zgoda 3 Rusiko Explaining Georgian cuisine isn’t all that hard. To the uninitiated, it’s representative of the heart, spirit and passion of its people, a cuisine the values the concept of the feast: wine, laughter and song find themselves elevated to roles of primary importance. A food of life, spice and whole-hearted tastes, consider Rusiko as the best ambassador there is for this surprisingly diverse kitchen. Live music lends the weekends a good-humored twist.

Note: closed Monday. (E5) Al. Ujazdowskie 22, tel. 22 629 0628, rusiko.pl

greek & turkish

georgian Chinkali Signposted by a Georgian-language shingle, there’s a real sense of pleasure about this place. More modern than your typical folksy ethnic outpost, Chinkali’s draw is indeed its chinkali: dough purses packed with meaty broth. There’s a genuine homemade quality to these slurpy bundles of joy, meaning that while they’re authentic, consistency can vary. And don’t miss out on the red bean chachapuri

Maho Maho feels like it’s located at the end of the earth – but its distance deters no-one, least of all its army of hardcore followers.

Why are they there? The answer is a Turkish grill that takes you right to the heart of this glorious cuisine. Highly recommended is the Iskender kebab: layers of juicy doner meat served with scoops of fresh tomato sauce and fresh, thin pide bread straight from the wood-fired oven.

Unique selection of Georgian wines and spirits

tue.-wed. from 1500 to 2300 thu.-fri. from 1500 to 2400 sat. from 1200 to 2400 sun. from 1200 to 2300 address: al. Ujazdowskie 22 00-478 Warszawa email: winebar@rusiko.pl + 48 22 628 45 76

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Finest Authentic Indian Cuisine in Locations Around Warsaw

WWW.CURRY-HOUSE.PL

HOŻA 54

536 443 771

ŻEROMSKIEGO 81 508 870 774

WWW.HOUSE-OF-CURRY.PL

EAT! Listings While you’re there, you may as well stock up on imported goodies from their adjoining store. Al. Krakowska 240/242, maho.com.pl Paros Out of all of Warsaw’s Greek contributions Paros dazzles most with a glitzy look that’s a complete U-turn from the typical taverna look. Owned by the same team behind El Greco, the menu is identical, though a recent visit revealed a kitchen resting on its laurels – not one plate on our table was finished. (D4) ul.

Jasna 14/16, tel. 22 828 1067, parosrestauracja.pl Santorini Santorini looks scuffed and tired but there’s a bonhomie present that instantly engages. The kitchen attaches no value to things like presentation, preferring instead to simply treat diners to piles of grilled and skewered food that consistently tastes right. ul. Egipska 7, tel. 22 672 0525, kregliccy.pl/santorini/ Sofra A highly respected Turkish eatery with a wondrous beef mussaka and a wholly admirable lineup of other ethnic dishes: the lamb shashlik has never failed us.

Pleasingly informal, this neighborhood redoubt feels cheerfully unforced, and it becomes an easy place to hang around in. (C6) ul. Wilcza 71, tel. 731 847 731 Taverna Patris This Greek restaurant is not about sophistication and finesse, it’s about truth and taste. Likewise, the interiors have no airs and graces: there’s a rough and ready style that’s apt for noisy celebrations and familial occasions.

Tawerna Patris is not about shallow details or surface appearances. Instead, it’s a place of depth, a place of integrity, a place of joy. (G4) ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 407, tel 22 357 11 11, tawernapatris.pl

hawaiian PATRIOTÓW 11A, FALENICA 512 533 415

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Poke Declared this year’s ‘must-have snack’ by the Guardian, poke’s popularity has fanned across the map to become one of the most exciting food fads of recent

times. Polynesian by birth, this raw fish salad comes served on a bed of rice and then topped with the sauce of your choice: lemon, teriyaki, and ginger among others.

While Warsaw has experienced the pleasures of poke before, here’s the first restaurant that’s dedicated to it: find it at the bottom of one of the Hogwarts-style turrets that support Most Poniatowskiego.

(F4) ul. Kruczkowskiego 15B, fb.com/ WarsawPoke

hungarian U Madziara U Madziara looks like it took two days to decorate. No-one goes here to marvel at the interiors though, they go in the knowledge that they’ll find great food at prices all bank cards can support. Chef Gabor’s signature goulash is one of life’s simple pleasures, though the service can come across as distracted and inattentive.

(B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 620 1423, umadziara.pl

indian Bollywood Lounge Known for their raucous dusk-till-dawn parties, there is another less hedonistic roll filled by Bollywood: that of a restaurant. The menu is an uncomplicated, classic affair that’s an ideal primer for the party ahead. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, tel. 22 827 0283, bollywoodlounge.pl Bombaj Masala Probably the best looking Indian restaurant in Warsaw. After a disappointing couple of years Bombaj have upped their game and made a sparkling return to form. Bland, oily dishes have been replaced with all the rich, intense tastes you’ve come to hope for. (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 606 688 777, bombajmasala.pl

Curry House Ask for something extra hot in Curry House and by Vishnu that’s what you’ll get. Yet at Curry House there is more to sing about than just

EAT! Listings Poland’s highest voltage vindaloo.

The curries are rich and sumptuous and consistently cited as among the best in the city. If in doubt, the chicken tikka masala is a fail-safe request. ul. Żeromskiego 81 & ul. Hoża 54 & ul.

Towarowa 35, curry-house.pl Curry Leaf The post-industrial style is diluted by the number of Indian trinkets hanging off the vents and pipes. Owned by the same crew behind the lauded Curry House, you’d be completely correct to assume consistency and excellence. ul. Conrada 5, curryleaf.pl House of Curry Heat seekers can ‘enjoy’ a genuine deathby-fire experience at House of Curry, though far milder curries are available for more sensitive palettes – either way, the experience is fantastic, and good news for those stuck out in the depths of Józefów. ul. Patriotów 11 A, house-of-curry.pl

India Express Wola Some notable exceptions / calamities aside, the standard of Indian food in Warsaw is surprisingly high – the problem lies in its ‘sameness’: same recipes, same menus and not enough being done to distinguish one restaurant from the next.

So it’s on this point that the latest branch of India Express really excel – open from 8 on weekdays, the draw here is a breakfast menu that gives a new spin to Indian food.

(B4) ul. Sienna 87, indiaexpress.pl Indian Taste Bad luck or bad cooking? The opposite of thick and fiery, both our Madras and Kadai were watery, weak and wimpy.

Much needed rescue came via an additional batch of the chef’s secret chilli paste – clearly, there’s someone who knows what they’re doing and someone who doesn’t. Fingers crossed we visited on an off-day for there’s certainly lots to like, not least the super-friendly servers and warm,

modern design. Second look needed. ul.

Dygata 2, fb.com/indiantasterestauracja The Indian Hut An appalling flashback to dismal times, The Indian Hut is a timely reminder that not all is well in Warsaw’s Indian sector. Forget the cheap, empty interior, the real problem here is the food: for the Insider that meant a vindaloo that looked and tasted like it had been scooped out from a train station toilet – our worst curry experience for years, possibly ever. (C6) ul. Piękna 68A Karma Fresh, contemporary interiors impart a chic, classy look that’s leagues ahead of Warsaw’s other Indian restaurants.

The food is impressive, with fresh ingredients and an expansive menu: the vindaloo is a special standout, with big, punchy flavors that leave you tingling long after you leave. (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 501 400 386, restauracjakarma.pl

The recently opened restaurant and bar Mokotowska 69 is a perfect place for those who enjoy refined food and excellent wine. The restaurant offers classic Polish dishes with a modern twist, delicious steaks and a wide range of wine from all over the world. Mokotowska 69 was designed for those who enjoy Polish cuisine and those who would like to try classic Polish dishes with a modern twist, such as Mazurian crayfish in rowan brandy cream sauce, roasted catfish with pearl barley and beets or roasted duck with pears and blackcurrant. The restaurant also specialises in steaks made from American Black Angus (certified prime grade by the USDA), Scottish Aberdeen Angus and the highest quality Japanese Tajima-gyu cattle, “Kobe-style”: class 5, marbling 9+.

ul. Mokotowska 69, tel. (+48 22) 628 73 84 / (+48 22) 627 20 33, www.mokotowska69.pl

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EAT! Listings Mandala Mandala is characterized by its big spices and a vindaloo capable of giving the sweat glands a work out. For something calmer, the creamy mutton methi malai is a masterpiece. ul. Emilii Plater 9/11 / ul. Etiudy Rewolucyjnej 9 / ul. Sienna 87, mandalaklub.com or indiaexpress.pl

though, if it looks bland then the food isn’t.

That means an incredible butter chicken that’s deep and immensely satisfying.

Then there’s the vindaloo, an experience that leaves some close to spontaneous combustion. Undoubtedly one of the best regarded Indian restaurants in this town.

Al. KEN 47, tel. 22 213 0689, mrindia.pl

Mr. India Split on two levels the design is contemporary if a little characterless: leather banquettes that leave a sweaty bum print and wood paneling. No problem

Namaste India Responsible for first bringing quality, budget Indian food to Warsaw, Namaste have grown from humble beginnings (three tables and cooking done in a

cupboard-sized space behind a curtain) to evolve into a bona fide two-floored restaurant. But expansion has come at the cost of quality – our last trip (March 2017) promises to be the last for some time.

(D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 15, tel. 22 357 0939, namasteindia.pl Om Indian restaurants are popping up like toast, which isn’t a problem for most ex-pats. Catering to the more budget end of the market, Om’s Nepalese chefs know their way around the kitchen. The chicken tikka masala is satisfying if nothing memorable, but the madras is something else: filled with sharp, punchy tastes that leave a lasting impression. While you get the idea it’ll never challenge the more established Indian restaurants in Warsaw, it’s the kind of place you’d be very happy to live next door to. (B4) ul. Sienna 86, omrestauracja.pl Rani Mere steps from Metro Natolin, this restaurant’s catchment area goes beyond just Ursynów. Owner Samir is a selfconfessed foodie, and his vision includes a contemporary Indian menu that features pan-seared cod with turmeric, tomato salsa and mint chutney – wonderful.

Rani will also please the traditionalists, with everything from creamy kormas to vindaloo’s that leave your ears blowing smoke rings. Al. KEN 48/10, tel. 729 247 400, rani.com.pl

A PLACE IN WHICH WINE PLAYS THE FIRST CHORD IN HARMONY WITH WHAT APPEARS ON THE PLATE…

Tandoor After nearly 20 years at the helm, owner Charanjit Walia has sold up and moved on, leaving a spiritual hole in his life-defining work. His parting shot has been a re-haul which has seen the interior modernized and brightened. Has the food suffered?

Not a jot. The chicken tikka butter masala is as formidable as ever. It’s no longer the self-styled, ‘the best Indian restaurant in Poland’, but it’s deservedly retained a loyal core of customers. (D7) ul. Marszałkowska 21/25, tel. 22825 2375, tandoor.com.pl

indonesian WE WELCOME YOU

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Warung Jakarta The menu has a street foodie edge and is divided into steps wherein diners first

EAT! Listings pick out their choice of protein, then their rice, before concluding with any vegetables add-ons (e.g. pak choy, green beans or water spinach). While most Warsaw restaurants have a special lunch scheme going on, Warung’s is one that actually warrants a further look: find truly great off-menu dishes that are highly accessible to all levels of income. (D6) ul.

Piękna 28/34

international Aioli This runaway hit has taken Warsaw by storm. It’s a jaunty space with hams hanging from hooks and long communal tables that thrive with life. Aioli’s breakfasts, sandwiches, pastas and pizzas are a lesson in clean, simple pleasure: nothing out of the world, just consistently good. This and the liberal prices mean there’s no shortage of people passing in and out the doors. (D3) ul. Świętokrzyska 18, tel. 22 290 102, aioli-cantine.com Ale Wino Dip through an archway to discover Ale Wino, a beautiful wine bar whose menu has been well tailored to the season.

Tweaked for the season is the pork belly, a Złotnicka pig adorned with apple sugar snap peas and celery mousse – gorgeous.

As for the wine, put your faith in the sommelier, Oliver. (F5) ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 628 3830, alewino.pl Bazar Kocha Designed to evoke the spirit of a farmers’ market, the woodsy interior is filled with stall-style units neatly stacked with jars and pots. Yet these are not decorative decoys, but part of a thoughtful grocery offer aimed at showcasing Kocha’s own-made produce. Above all though, this is a restaurant whose menu is strongly influenced by concepts of ‘terroir’. The giant leg of lamb falls off the bone and is a dish to recommend and remember for several months to come. (D6) ul.

Mokotowska 33, bazarkocha.pl The Bell Original in concept and flawless in its execution, The Bell is what Saska Kępa has been crying out for: somewhere stylish but not overtly fancy. Led by the

brilliant Jan Piecuch, the kitchen turns out plenty of natural flavors with unexpected twists. The halibut in miso is a fish that flaps with the best: enjoy it in a back garden that cascades with greenery and plant life. (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 21, thebell.pl Bez Tytułu A beautifully decorated restaurant on trendy Poznanska. The menu has French and Polish accents and reflects the chef’s creative streak well. (D5) ul. Poznańska 16, beztytulu.com Bibenda The menu declares Bibenda to be ‘a celebration of food, drink and togetherness’, and that’s precisely what it is.

Augmenting the warm, busy interiors are a thoughtful selection of craft beers and a concise menu that varies from month-tomonth. The apparent simplicity of the food is illusory and belies the kitchen’s knack for spotting interesting combinations such as goose with pumpkin puree, cranberry / red wine jam and chili caramelized beetroot. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 10, tel. 502 770 303, bibenda.pl Brasserie Warszawska Looking for classic cuisine with no daft flights of fancy? Here you have it. At a time when everyone wants to be Ferran Adrià, Brasserie has both a menu and interior that you can understand: pan-fried foie gras; elegant beef Rossini; and sinful apple tarte tatin, all served inside posh interiors of zinc-plated mirrors and chessboard floors. Their Michelin Bib Gourmand is a source of pride, but it’s the number of repeat clients that are the ultimate paean to the skills of the chef.

(E5) ul. Górnośląska 24, tel. 22 628 9423, brasseriewarszawska.pl Bubbles Occupying a small, square room, it’s intimate and relaxed: a place busy with blackboards and bottles, crates and clutter. It radiates warmth and honesty.

The food is exquisite, and includes big, meaty snails farmed in Mazury, and their signature dish: Swiss-style raclette.

Presented on a wooden chopping board, this cheese dish is classic melty goodness, and served alongside a pile of potatoes, onions marinated with caramel and candied pumpkin. Considering the place doubles as a champagne bar the warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings prices are remarkably moderate. (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 512 540 913, bubbles. com.pl Bułkę przez Bibułkę When Bułkę przez Bibułkę was opened the idea was simple – to create a boutique version of Subway: a high quality sandwich shop people would value.

But after they started serving breakfast, the whole thing snowballed into a more bistro-style offer. Now there’s a second venue on Zgoda, it’s not just the quality that’s contributed to the success, but the atmosphere as well. ul. Zgoda 3 & ul.

Puławska 24, bulkeprzezbibulke.pl Casablanca Biały Kamień From the same team behind Na Lato comes Casablanca, a versatile venue that muddies the lines between café, restaurant, wine bar and hangout. Equally comfortable in each of these roles, it’s a place that feels fresh and cosmopolitan, not to mention completely in tune with the swank, glass surrounds. More to the point, it’s given wings to a part of Mokotów that before felt quite sterile. ul. Żaryna 2B, casablancawaw.com.pl Concept 13 You’d expect a rooftop meal at Poland’s ultimate luxury department store to cost the earth, but that’s not the case. The zł. 50 lunch deal allows Joe Public to enjoy the considerable skills of Dariusz Barański. That he manages to create different pieces of art each and every afternoon is a testament to his talent – fellow chefs and foodies privately talk of him as a Michelin star in the making. (D4) ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7373, likusrestauracje.pl

local chef Adam Leszczyński. Seen as one of the great talents of his generation, Leszczyński has reopened his previous premises to serve a menu heavy on the use of activated charcoal. Primed for Instagram addicts, it’s a menu that’s become a huge talking point between millennial foodies: the kimchi burger, served in a black bun, is a thing of inspiration.

Paired with black-colored drinks, join the buzz inside an interior that looks scuffed and distressed. (E3) ul. Bartoszewicza 3, fb.com/czarnawodabar Dekant Wine Bar Not just a contender for Warsaw’s best new wine bar, but also Warsaw’s best new restaurant! The tuna tartar comes with the added ka-boom of a nose clearing wasabi, while the filet mignon (a snip at zł.

79) is simply astonishing. The surprise are the ash-cooked potatoes, beautiful things with a char that wows. The desserts are few in number but equally outstanding: we fell in love with a passion fruit semifreddo with strawberries marinated in Grand Marnier. (F5) ul. Zajęcza 15, dekant. com.pl Der Elefant This leviathan restaurant unravels in a maze of wrought iron and monochrome tiles – beautiful to look at (it was created

by Oscar winning set designer Allan Starski), it’s caused a stir for more than just this alone. Where once the menu looked like it was devised by throwing darts at a cookbook, the focus has now been narrowed. While some of the dishes are strictly middling, the filet mignon (zł.

69) is one of the best meat deals in town in terms of quality / price / consistency. (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, tel. 22 890 0010, derelefant.com

The Cool Cat Our visit featured a musical standoff between two waiters arguing over possession of the laptop, and a genuine piece of plate art that was as delicious as it looked: beautiful deer surrounded by creative ingredients. Small menu and a fashionable crowd, but an immensely enjoyable place that adds further oomph to Powiśle. (F4) ul. Solec 38, tel. 787 698 700

Dom Here’s the very epitome of casual dining: set on the ground floor of a suburban house, the warm corners and garden views give Dom a real sense of homey charm. In line with all that is a menu that celebrates simple, honest cooking.

Everyone who visits ends up loving the place. ul. Mierosławskiego 12, tel. 509 165 712

Czarna Woda From the blackened, smoking ashes of Kotakota rises a new venture from cult

Drukarnia Wrapped inside an ugly 1950s facade, this former printing house unravels to

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expose a sensational interior high on retro pieces: jagged-shaped stone floor tiles, a red neon and stern Socialist era statuettes lend a heavy PRL accent, though the big statement at Drukarnia is supplied courtesy of the architecture itself. Tall windows, high ceilings and a peculiar spiral staircase that disappears into nowhere collude to lend Drukarnia a sense of light, space and depth. The food: limited choice of European standards cooked with competence. If you’re in the area, worth a look ul. Mińska 65, drukarnianapradze.pl Dyletanci BEST WAWA 2016 “Upscale Casual” Filled with crisp, modern citizens that radiate confidence, Dyletanci introduces itself as a bistro set with green banquettes and Tom Dixon lamps. The wine selection is among the best in the nation, while the cooking has been left to Rafał Hreczaniuk, a workaholic chef with outrageous talent. His zander fillet thrills with every bite. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44A, dyletanci.pl Genesis What the hell is it? Seen as an amorphous blob composed of triangular white plates and large glass panels, Genesis restaurant is an instant head turner. the feeling is of stepping into your own futuristic space adventure. As for the menu, that’s perhaps not as revolutionary as the design demands, offering instead a decent gamut of safe, globally-known choices. (A4) Pl. Europejski 5, fb.com/ genesiswarsaw

Grand Kredens This mighty veteran continues to draw a steady custom on account of a wide-reaching menu that aims to keep everyone happy – and it usually does.

The design is surreal to say the least, and is laid out in such a way as to always guarantee a lively atmosphere. (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 111, tel. 22 629 8008, kredens.com.pl Hala Gwardii Housed in a Tsarist era brick hall,

EAT! Listings Warsaw’s latest food market / hangout has caused a storm since opening in October. A great tenant mix has seen 25 vendors signed-up, with highlights include raclette from the cool couple at Melt, vegan goodness at Tel Aviv, burgers from the legendary WarBurger and artisan pizza from Lunga. Keeping it social are craft beer points, a bio wine stall, and a late night bar that overlooks it all. If Koszyki was the story of 2016, then Gwardii is this year’s hero – open Friday morning through to Sunday night, a visit is essential. (C3) Pl. Mirowska 2, fb.com/ halagwardii Hala Koszyki Integrating old with new, this huge project brings together some 18 food outlets inside a busy interior that’s all iron girders and industrial lighting. While there’s a feeling that there should have been a bigger focus on artisan, independent traders, that’s done nothing to dent Koszyki’s astonishing popularity. Units

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of note include the Gringo Salsownia, Port Royal Fish & Oyster Bar, and the Sobramesa Tapas Bar. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63, koszyki.com Kieliszki Na Hożej The only Polish graduate of the Alain Ducasse academy in Paris, Dawid Balana has combined everything he’s learned along the way to fashion a menu that’s high on local produce but cooked with a classic French twist. The tastes are precise and well-balanced, but also varied enough to give a seemingly simple dishes several interesting sub-plots. From the outside, it looks like something straight from the 6th arrondissement. Through the door, and diners are met head-on by a seductive space that’s dark, intimate and full of gleaming glass: beautiful. (D5) ul.

Hoża 41, kieliszkinahozej.pl La Brasserie Modern The interior of Didier Gomez whispers intimacy, yet it also embraces notions of

space and light. The casual elegance that emanates from the design is accented by warm colors, low banquettes and glinting mirrors. The menu fits seamlessly with the surrounds: a fresh, modern look at French cuisine, but one that values clarity and simplicity. (D3) ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8332, sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com

Loft Color, that’s what Loft has. It’s everywhere – from the design, which is all bubble shaped lights and splashy, bright cushions, to the drinks: extravagant cocktails that possibly glow in the dark. The menu is full of playful experimentation, something reflected by a seasonal menu that has, in the past, presented such choices as chicken with strawberries. (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 668 016 964, restauracjaloft.pl

EAT! Listings Maui Bistro Tiki-style interiors pitch palm fronds against aquamarine and electric pink furnishings: yet despite the overt Polynesian theme, the menu is broad in its brushstrokes – giant cocobowls, hummus, tapas, tagliatelle and the area’s top burger. ul. Kazachzka 3, fb.com/ mauibistro MOD BEST WAWA 2016 “Casual Dining” Chef Trisno’s menu sets his French culinary training against his Singaporean upbringing. The outcome is a card (actually, a printed sheet of paper) that makes for dangerously enjoyable reading: duck hearts with beetroot / soy emulsion and braised red cabbage; duck confit with pok choy, soy / red wine sauce and spicy cranberry chutney. Moderate prices and funky décor (a retro mirrored wall, upside down plants hanging from the ceiling) give it an ad hoc edge and plenty of character. Note: by day its Warsaw’s

top donut store, so visit at night for their proper menu. (D6) ul. Oleandrów 8, fb.com/ MODOleandrow8 Mokotowska 69 Set inside a rotunda at the tail end of the street, it’s a place that exudes elegance and class. Most of all, however, it’s a restaurant to be enjoyed. Brought to you by the same team credited for Merliniego 5, Mokotowska’s appreciation of steak has been lifted from their elder sister. Yet the virtues of this restaurant extend beyond steak alone: the Insider enjoyed a volley of greats – creamy breaded calf brains, sophisticated smoked eel, and Mazurian crayfish served in a deep, joyous sauce of rowan berry and brandy. (E5) ul.

Mokotowska 69, mokotowska69.com Momu.Gastrobar Back open after a revamp and a rethink, the biggest talking point has been the star addition of a wood smoker imported from the States. Allegedly the only one

of its kind in Poland, the menu has been adjusted accordingly to play to this strength – with this in mind, the ribs are a must-have. (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 11, tel. 506 100 001, momu.pl Orzo Functioning until recently as Aioli by Mini, the subsequent re-brand has seen the industrial interiors enhanced by a mother lode of plant life and greenery.

Other changes include the addition of orzo-based dishes as well as a new motto that asserts their connection to ‘people, music, nature’. A cynical attempt to attach themselves to Warsaw’s fad for healthy living, or something more special? We’ll check back soon to check just which it is.

(D6) Pl. Konstytucji 5 Plato Conceived as a ‘smart casual’ restaurant, it’s a reasonably compact space with a modern style and incandescent bulbs hanging from a complex cat’s cradle of

Traditional Polish cuisine • Live music • The best wine, regional beer and spirits • Grand Kredens • 20 years full of tradition

Share your opinion!

Al. Jerozolimskie 111, tel. +48 22 629 80 08. mob: +48 697 900 000, kredens@kredens@kredens.com.pl, www.kredens.com.pl

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EAT! Listings interweaving wires: classy but nothing too flashy or flamboyant. Then there’s the menu, a strange work that sees Spanish influences brushing shoulders next to Polish and Asian. It sounds silly and preposterous but my God it works. December saw us wowed by beef tartar cut from Polish Hereford, an aromatic oriental broth, and a refined halibut encircled with sage pesto, redcurrants and fresh almonds. Stunning. ul. Klimczaka 1 (Royal Wilanow), restauracjaplato.pl Rozbrat 20 BEST WAWA 2016 “Upscale Casual” Much noise has been made about Rozbrat 20’s bread and wine selection, but their food is also something of a standout. Our trip in December meant twirls of herring pickled in vinegar and herbs and surrounded by a whorl of pond green colors; expertly assembled and boisterously flavored Hungarian foie gras; and a roll of gelatinous pork with ribbons of crispy salsify and a reassuring, fleshy taste. (F5)

ul. Rozbrat 20, rozbrat20.com.pl Secado Casual, intimate interiors complement a menu that’s expanded from its original Latin leanings. Everything we’ve tried here has been close to culinary gold, and that includes the surf & turf, tortillas and the roast beef. (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 66, tel.

608 707 799, secado.com.pl Soul Kitchen Bistro If the previous venue was all slanted towards low-pitched business conversation then the new one is positively festive in comparison: scuffed brickwork, tall bar stools, a long communal table, etc. The seasonal menu is a pick-and-mix of smallto-medium plates, including a halibut gravlax, whose delicate taste juxtaposes well against the rougher, earthier kick of the radish, and crayfish presented in a bird’s nest of green beans, fennel and leek. For mains, look for the braised beef.

(D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 18A, soulkitchen.pl

Stixx It’s easy to distrust a menu with such international diversity, but the kitchen crew really make it come together: the Indian section is particularly outstanding. Then there’s the design, a balance between slick corporate and sexy cosmopolitan: with the Warsaw Spire towering above it outside, it’s the kind of address to take any new arrival who still thinks of Poland as being backward. (A4) Pl. Europejski 4A, tel. 22 340 4040, stixx.pl

Strefa There’s a swan white elegance here, with lots of pristine colors and smart, smoothtalking service. What a refreshing change.

Chef Jarosław Walczyk favors sous-vide techniques, and his is a magic, masterful hand – his duck is flawless, and the homemade ice cream with seasonal fruits is quite a follow-up. (C3) ul. Próżna 9,

A F R E N C H R E V E L AT I O N

REDOLENT OF A PARISIEN COURTYARD BAKERY, YOU’LL SMELL THE AROMA OF OUR FRESHLY BAKED BREAD FROM DAWN. OPEN THROUGH THE DAY, WE’RE DELIGHTED TO SERVE OUR FAMOUS BREAKFASTS, TRADITIONAL PASTRIES NOT TO MENTION A SELECTION OF WINES FOR YOUR DINNER. WE LOOK FORWARD TO WELCOMING YOU.

Być Może

ul. Bagatela 14

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EAT! Listings tel. 22 255 0850, restauracjastrefa.pl Talerzyki From the makers of Bazar Kocha comes a new concept that casts the spotlight on small plates composed of arty looking snacks to peck at. Enjoyed inside swank, retro-tinged interiors, the lively nature of Talerzyki is given an added boost by cocktails inspired by the inter-war age.

(E6) ul. Mokotowska 33/35

Tusz Tusz Bistro Hidden round the back of Pl. Bankowy’s epic blue tower, Tusz Tusz is the kind of place Warsaw needs more of: a catch-all solution with a local menu that keeps office workers in mind – it’s fast, available from dawn but doesn’t cut corners when it comes to basic standards. Full review coming soon. (C2) Pl. Bankowy 2

Warszawski Sznyt Warsaw’s historic center is rightly glorified for many reasons – its restaurants, however, are not one of them. In fact, there’s probably nowhere in the city with a higher concentration of sub-par efforts. Aiming to redress the balance are Sznyt, an ambitious venue with swank interiors overlooking the Royal Castle, and a kitchen staff headhunted from blue ribbon venues such as Salto and Amaro. Set over two floors (one focused on Polish cuisine, the other on ‘international’), the pride of the house is afforded to the wood-fired grill. (D2) ul. Senatorska 2, warszawskisznyt.pl Wilczy Głód The jaunty, impish design makes use of cartoonish wolves on the walls and treelike installations strung with bare light bulbs. And look, there’s a furry, mouse resting on a cushion. But if the place is playful and perky, then the cooking is both serious and sincere. Matching international ideas with organic local produce from small family farmsteads, you immediately sense this is a place created out of a love and respect for food. (D5) ul. Wilcza 29A, tel. 22 891 0285

LEVEL 1 POLISH AND BUSINESS CUISINE

italian Ave Pizza The argument over who serves Warsaw’s best pizza goes right to the wire, but there’s no doubting that Ave Pizza are up there on the leaderboard. Set across a sparse, metropolitan area, this fashionable L-shaped joint comes endorsed by the capital’s notoriously picky Italian community. Order the pillowy calzone and you’ll soon learn why. (E3) ul. Topiel 12, tel.

22 828 8507, avepizza.pl Delizia The sheer proliferation of Italian restaurants lends an element of chance to dining out: cut through the noise by visiting Delizia, a place that’s consistently topped polls ever since it launched in 2010. Lorenzo’s cooking is upscale Italian with a contemporary twist, and comes presented by Luca, an ebullient ball of energy who patrols the floor with sparkling good humor. In the hands of these two an unforgettable night comes guaranteed. Top quality imported products, a dimly-lit romantic atmosphere, a tasteful design and faultless food: no wonder so many rate this as their favorite Italian. (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 22 622 6665, delizia.com.pl Dziurka od Klucza An inviting Italian restaurant in which curious doors sit embedded into the walls, as if waiting to be opened by the keys that hang on the tree outside. Striking a lavender look, the magic of this restaurant is affirmed by its wonderful pasta and intimate style. (E3) ul. Radna 13, tel. 500 150 494, dziurkaodklucza.com.pl

Enoteka This L-shaped space feels completely correct: tall ceilings, big windows, marble floors and an overwhelming sense of light and sun. The mood is good. Food matches the serious wine list and includes a rich topinmabur soup, creamy Agnolloti pasta and a hearty steak. These are not attempts at a kitchen revolution, rather a concentrated focus on a menu that makes sense. (C1) Rynek Nowego Miasta 13/15, enotekapolska.pl

2 SENATORSKA STREET, WARSAW + 48 22 829 20 50 or + 48 609 608 010 WWW.WARSZAWSKISZNYT.PL FACEBOOK.COM/ WARSZAWSKISZNYTRESTAURANT INSTAGRAM.COM/ WARSZAWSKI_SZNYT

LEVEL 0 MODERN STEAKHOUSE

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EAT! Listings Focaccia The Insider’s visit went something like this: wrist-thick octopus with an arc of yellow mousse, conversation stopping beef tenderloin alongside a glistening pool of madeira sauce and then an orange ice cream with caramel and ginger that soon merged into a big gooey brew of chocolatey mess. The only surprise is there’s no Italian in the kitchen – it appears they don’t need one. This is seriously talented cooking inside an interior that fresh and light and reflective of the food. (D2) ul. Senatorska 13/15, tel. 22 829 6969, focaccia.pl Mąka i Woda Purists applaud an approach that uses a custom-made oven from Naples and imported ingredients such as 00 Caputo flour and DOP certified San Marzano tomatoes. Scrupulously authentic, it’s no wonder that it’s packed to the gunnels every night of the week – even their Facebook page warns of 20-minute

waiting times for a table alone. Learning this, some storm off in a huff – they need their heads checked, for this is Warsaw’s best pizza. (D4) ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 91 87

japanese & sushi

Sexy Duck Marketing themselves as a ‘craft Italian kitchen’, Sexy Duck make a song and dance about artisan this and that while never justifying their own hyperbole. Were they not so keen to tell you otherwise, you’d mistake the food as being something from a mid-market high street chain enterprise. Pl. Konstytucji 3, tel. 22 400 3737

Benihana Fire, flash, show and sizzle: the Benihana experience merges cooking with cabaret with diners sat ringside around teppanyaki grills. These cooking stations are the stage for the Benihana crew to demonstrate their riveting range of nifty knifework and daredevil antics. Outside of the realm of the grill, the sushi is also strikes the right spot. (C4) ul. Twarda 2/4, benihanapoland.com

Si From the makers of Secado comes a new downtown venture: Si, a fun Italian stop with homemade pasta, an array of pizza and a hefty choice of cocktails. Geared towards good times, a list of rotating daily offers has done a fair job of drumming up trade. (C3) ul. Marszałkowska 115

Fat Buddha Immense in size, there’s a confident feeling of decadent ostentation: with light kept at bay by vast mulberry-colored drapes, what would otherwise appear as an over-sized hall feels intimate and sensual, dark and delicious. Japanese in spirit, the menu pitches a refined

AUTHENTIC POLISH CUISINE

Krakowskie Przedmieście 64 tel. +48 22 826 4770 email. info@delicjapolska.pl www.delicjapolska.pl

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EAT! Listings selection of exceptional dishes – elaborate dragon rolls; delicate gyoza; and beef tataki that’s lightly seared and thinly sliced. It’s all perfect.

(D3) ul. Mazowiecka 2/4 Kago Sushi A place of such merit that it’s worth bludgeoning your way through the surging crowds of off-duty lawyers and second rate ‘slebs. A side project from the team behind Izumi, portioning here is strict and skimpy, but the precision, attention to detail and flavors are second to none.

Bills creep up fast as you opt for ‘just one more nigiri’, but such is the brilliance that complaints are rare. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki), kagosushi.pl Sakana Sushi Bar Sushi as a fashion statement? That’s what you find in Sakana, a place where the glam and the great of Warsaw peacock around with feathers on display. Ignoring the general vanity and unpleasantness,

one can’t help but applaud the sushi – if there was one winner in the sushi wars of the noughties, then Sakana was it. ul. Burakowska 5/7 tel. 22 636 0505, ul. Moliera 4/6, tel. 22 826 5958, & ul.

Wąwozowa 6, lok.10B, tel. 22 498 8899, sakana.pl Sato Gotuje Ochota’s culinary drought is over, and in some style as well. While the plain interiors look bald and boring, the cooking of Satoru Yaegashi is all art and precision: braised duck breast with mustard; fried sardines with roasted sesame seeds; and heaps of homemade udon in warming fish broth. Often outstanding, it’s little wonder that people are arriving in droves from all across town: bookings aren’t mandatory, but they’re definitely advised. ul. Pawińskiego 24 Shoku In local terms, this has to be amongst the most blogged about restaurants of the

year thus far. While it actually opened several months back, it’s only now that the place is gathering steam and getting recognized thanks to word-of-mouth.

In truth, it’s not hard to see what the fuss is about: occupying a cool, almost industrial-looking spot not far from the Rising Museum, Shoku offers an excellent menu of Asian-style tapas and small plates inside a buzzy background that’s never short of custom. The tuna steak is recommended. (A4) ul. Karolkowa 30, shoku.pl Sushi Zushi The mania for sushi is in recess, and that’s a good thing – the rogue operators are dead or dying off, and are survived by the best. And make no mistake, Sushi Zushi continue to be one of the No. 1 ex-pat choices. Appreciated by a stunning crowd, the rolls are often bold, creative and always astonishingly fresh. (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 420 3373, sushizushi.pl

NEW MENU

Modern take on Italian cuisine

tel.: +48 22 829 69 69 ul. Senatorska 13/15, Warsaw/Old Town restauracja@focaccia.pl, fb.com/restauracjafocaccia www.focaccia.pl

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EAT! Listings Tomo While Warsaw’s other sushi stops gather cobwebs Tomo packs out each night – that should say enough. With the maki, sushi and sashimi bobbing past on wooden platters, this place aims for fast, maximum turnover without ever making the diner feel second best. (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2344, tomo.pl Uki Uki How much do the locals appreciate Warsaw’s original udon bar? Enough to queue outside the door? That’s right. Dining is a close quarters experience here, but is done so without complaint: that electric pasta maker turns out noodles of such chewy goodness that everyone leaves beaming. (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, tel. 728 827 705, ukiuki.pl Wabu Sushi becomes a heaven’s gate spiritual experience in Wabu with the evening passing in a blur of beautiful composi-

tions, of silky slithers of fish crowned with expert pinches of this, and little brush strokes of that. That’s all elevated even further by deliciously upscale interiors befitting of the Spire location. (A4) Pl. Europejski 2 (Warsaw Spire), wabu.pl YakoTako Naked bar the tables and chairs you eat on, YakoTako takes the concept of Japanese minimalism to extremes. The stripped down approach is also applied to the menu, a simple affair that presents two types of dishes: takoyaki (deep-fried octopus) and okonomiyaki (a cabbagebased pancake). Basic, cheap, but also pretty tasty. (B2) ul. Nowolipki 15

korean

Florentin A quite beautiful, pale-colored dining room that boldly presents the cuisine of

Ban Bao Bottom line: hugely addictive. Specializing in Bao – soft and pillowy steamed

Pastry Shop Warsaw, Pl. Grzybowski 2, open: 9.00 - 20.00 Warsaw, Felińskiego 52, open: 9.00 - 20.00

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Tel Aviv Although this multicultural melting pot is best-known for its Israeli street food, it’s the shift towards ‘vegan fine dining’ that has really caught the attention. (D5) ul.

Poznanska 11, restauracjatelaviv.pl

jewish

Restaurant & Pastry Shop Warsaw, Żurawia 47/49, open: 7.00 - 22.00 reservations: tel. +48 (22) 621 82 68

modern day Israel. High on North African twists and turns, there’s a creativity at work here that marks Florentin out as one of the most exciting openings in recent times: if in doubt, the veal with harissa, grilled pepper and pear puree is a winning order that deserves full attention. Onto dessert, and make space for the basil panna cotta served with ‘tomato jam’. (E4) ul. Smolna 40, fb.com/FlorentinWarszawa

EAT! Listings buns cascading with Asian-style meat & extras – this budget spot is gaining a serious sense of buzz. Kimchi fries and KFC (Korean fried chicken) round out the experience – enjoy them in a hip, postindustrial interior that’s high on heavy wood benches and exposed concrete finishes. We love it. (B4) ul. Żelazna 58/62, fb.com/BanBaoo Miss Kimchi Cheap and cheerful Korean street food served in a small, steamy space that’s frequently packed to the rafters. Box sets come piled high with meat, rice and veg.

The spotlight falls on the bibimbap, a satisfying mess of shredded veg, lively spices, a fried egg and beef bulgogi. This is replenishment in its truest form. (B4) ul. Żelazna 58/62, tel. 570 186 066 Onggi Positive transformations aren’t confined to Ramsay’s Kitchen Nightmares: after a dreadful start characterized by bland, claggy dishes, this Korean restaurant has spun a U-turn that’s left the competition reeling. The menu is daunting in size, but contains wildly interesting finds such as a streaky bacon stir fry, spicy pickled Daikon radish and lotus root simmered in soy sauce. (D2) ul. Moliera 2 Sora Buoyed by a surge in Korean expat numbers, Korena cuisine found itself cresting in 2016. Yet despite the increasingly competitive market, Sora is commonly accepted as the ruler of the roost. The tabletop BBQ sets are an essential order and ideal for the shared bonding experience. It’s even better with copious quantities of Makkoli wine. (A4) ul.

Wronia 45

latin & spanish Casa Pablo “We give Spanish food a new twist,” declares chef Gonzalo de Salas, which explains why, in between pungent cheeses and acorn-fed Bellota ham, we find ourselves demolishing a variety of dishes that buck all notions of tradition: as a starter the beetroot-marinated salmon served with wasabi emulsion is a fine example of this. With de Salas performing

balletic tricks in the kitchen, Casa Pablo presents a masterful menu that ripples with adventure. (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5A, tel.

22 324 5781, casapablo.pl Mojo Picon Smart and atmospheric yet still pleasingly casual, the early feedback has been healthy. Specializing in Hispanic cuisine, especially that of the Canary Islands, specific strengths include a broad selection of Spanish wines, artfully composed tapas and a paella for the purists. A smaller operation the size of a mouse hole operates on Poznanska. ul. Prosta 53, mojopicon.pl Tapas Gastrobar The popular practice is to order so many plates and bottles that the table becomes a Magic Eye of kaleidoscope patterns.

A great place for sharing and general interaction, the ambiance and quality belies the corporate anonymity of the location. Though the gazapcho is first class it’s bettered by the patatas bravos: fried potatoes in a ballsy tomato sauce.

(A4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 251 1310, tapasbar.pl Restaurante Bunuel Spanish-owned Bunuel has left many in raptures. Simple interiors focus attention on the food, which in this case involves a crisp gazpacho that gets you missing summer, and grilled meats that leave many in a swoon. (H4) ul. Walecznych 61, tel. 798 659 554, bunuel-restauracja.com

mexican Blue Cactus Combining the barbecuing techniques of the southern states with the humble but potent tastes of Mexico, this veteran landmark is committed to local produce and fresh flavors, the previous chef’s finest moment was hoiking over a woodfired grill all the way from Nashville – the steaks will stop you in your tracks. Note: not all recent reports have been positive, with service issues cited as a particular complaint. (E8) ul. Zajączkowska 11, tel. 22 851 2323, bluecactus.pl Dos Tacos Who doesn’t like asking for something

Book your Christmas party now!

Le Cedre Lounge Grzybowska 5A Tel 22 299 7299

Le Cedre 61

(opposite the zoo) Al. Solidarności 61, Praga Tel 22 670 1166

Le Cedre 84

(opposite the court) Al. Solidarności 84 Tel 22 618 8999

www.lecedre.pl warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings that’s ‘under the counter’. In the case of Dos Tacos, doing so means inquiring about their range of ‘salsa clandestinas’: extra hot sauces designed for reckless thrill-seekers. But the true secret weapon at Dos Tacos is Isabel Balderas, a Mexican chef that has mastered the bright, bold tastes of her native country. This cuisine has enjoyed a breakout year in Warsaw, but while the millennials clamor over new food trucks and funky little start-ups, Dos Tacos is a timely reminder that the old guard sometimes know best. (D4) ul.

Jasna 22, tel. 22 243 4618, dostacos.pl

El Barrio Famed for his long association with El Popo, chef Angel Aceves Vivanco has teamed up with Lourdes Estrada to create a cheerful-looking spot on the fringe of New Town. Ringing with colorful patterns and mosaics, the effect – like the food itself – is simple but reassuringly lively. On the Insider’s visit, that meant a hefty chicken burrito given a viper’s bite thanks to a chili habanero salsa – but inconsistencies are plentiful and need to be resolved – fast! (C1) ul.

Długa 6, elbarrio.pl

Gringo Bar A Mexican wave is upon us, and high time too. After years of suffering frozen ingredients, timid flavors and daft Mariachi music to persuade us it’s all authentic, a raft of new cut-price eateries are showing the rest how it’s done.

Cooked and folded by fist bumping lads in back-to-front caps and baggy t-shirts, the food at Gringo is fiery, fresh and full of zing. There are detractors who claim this is a Polonized version of this cuisine, but the informal Gringo remains one of the market leaders. (E9) ul. Odolańska 15, tel.

22 848 9523, gringobar.pl La Sirena Creamy guacamole the color of Kermit; cocktails that are both vicious and delicious; and drunken beans full of heart and vim. But La Sirena gets even better, particularly with the short ribs burrito and a readjusted ‘almost death salsa’ that’s learned to say POW. Add to this a machete-laden interior that draws inspiration from the ultra-violent films of Danny Trejo, and you understand why this tiny, backstreet cantina has become the talk of the town. At no point in its history has Warsaw enjoyed better Mexican food.

(D5) ul. Piękna 54 Loco Mexicana Some ideas just never make it past the concept stage: take Loco Mexicana, a place that seeks to exploit New Warsaw’s double pronged mania for craft beer and Mexican food. From the former, they’ve gone for a mundane line-up that falls way short of the boundary-pushing selections of Warsaw’s other tap bars. On the food front, you’re better off picking up some frozen ingredients and packet tortillas from your local store – the results are likely to be better. Enjoy that in a cheap-looking, slapdash interior that feels about twenty five years out-of-date. (D7) ul. Marszałkowska 17 Maria Kolendra The most likable trend of the past year?

That’ll be Warsaw’s growing mania for Mexican food. Set in a small ‘pavilion’ building out in the Służew boonies, such is the authenticity that its loyal band of devotees see nothing wrong in traipsing across the city for a taste of Luis and Armando’s tacos and burritos. ul.

Puławska 246

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EAT! Listings Urban Burritos It’s here, in this unassuming subterranean world, that people gather for what is being hyped as Warsaw’s top burrito.

Offering fillings of pork, beef, chicken and Portobello mushroom, wraps come expertly constructed and served with salsas that sing with gusto. (D6) ul. Piękna 22, urbanburritos.pl

middle eastern

Dom Faraona Sitting just off Nowy Świat, this Egyptian restaurant comes soaked in the soothing scent of the sheesha. The comprehensive menu has plenty of zingy Middle Eastern small plates for starters, though really earns its stripes on account of its grill dishes: the lamb ribs are a house specialty. If you like what you see, visit their cafe in CH Panorama. (E4) ul. Ordynacka 13, dom-faraona.com Le Cedre With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night

belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops.

(E1) Al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166, lecedre.pl Le Cedre 84 Le Cedre just keep on getting it right.

Authenticity is key in this chainlette (well, there’s another across the river), as you’ll discover when talking to Tony, the Lebanese owner. To see the diversity of this cuisine, order the balbaak (six cold starters) or the byblos (six hot).

And food aside, it’s the atmosphere that carries them that extra yard: the whole philosophy of this cuisine is to share and share alike, making it a uniquely engaging experience when dining with friends.

(B3) Al. Solidarności 84, tel. 22 618 8999, lecedre.pl Le Cedre Lounge Furnished in voluptuous Middle Eastern style, the latest subsidiary of the Le Cedre empire bursts with fancy sheesha pipes, extravagant rugs and shimmery satin drapes. It’s a look that’s fun, familiar, intimate and warm. Less encyclopedic than that of its two sister ventures, Le Cedre Lounge has a slimmer menu that introduces several new tastes to fans of Lebanese cuisine. Helplessly

Loft is the perfect place to pause for a moment for a coffee, to meet with friends for lunch or a late dinner – most of all, it’s a chance to escape the city bustle while remaining in the heart of Warsaw. ul. Złota 11 tel. 668 016 964 restauracjaloft.pl

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more-ish, it’s food that’s in line with the vibey atmosphere and casual air. (C4) ul.

Grzybowska 5A, lecedre.pl Samira There was something a little seedy about Samira’s old location, but that’s all forgotten in their new digs on Powsińska. Find this great Lebanese supermarket filling a dual role as an authentic restaurant serving authentic dishes such as kafta and shawarma. ul. Powsińska 64a, tel. 22 825 3363, samira.pl Shuk Located behind Hala Banacha in this gradually blooming district of Warsaw, SHUK’s certainly worth the tram ride if you’re not a native Ochotian. An offshoot of the acclaimed Mezze, highlights on our visit included a well-seasoned Arabic soup with lentils and spinach followed by a skillet of fried oyster mushrooms cooked with onions and served alongside harissa topped with rose petals. You’re looking at quite a special place that realigns your mojo on an ashen Warsaw day. ul. Grójecka 127 Sokotra Casting a warm, steamy glow over this corner of Wilcza, Sokotra reveals itself as a well-designed nook with a rough, urban edge: telegraph poles, bare bulbs and exposed lumps of concrete. Yemeni dishes are available though it’s the Indian

EAT! Listings food that shines – the Madras is intense, pungent and suitably fiery. (D5) ul. Wilcza 27, tel. 22 270 2766, sokotra.pl

polish

Ale Gloria Who said romance was dead? Here wedding white colors are fused with a strawberry motif inside this gourmet fave.

Keeping patrons returning are aromatic dishes with a contemporary twist – try the duck in rose sauce. (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7080, alegloria.pl Bazyliszek Some parts of Bazyliszek hark to its years as a stately, stuffy restaurant. Now though it’s more earthy, with Jurassic portions of meaty, lardy food best consumed with one-liter beers. The Rynek location and festive atmosphere account for its popularity more than anything that comes from the kitchen. (D1) Rynek Starego Miasto 1/3, tel. 22 831 1841, bazyliszek. waw.pl Bar Gdański Closed in spring, a brief but thorough refit conducted by the new owner has given this milk bar a late lease of life.

Gone are the plastic plants, putrid smells and that slow feeling of death, replaced instead by a fresher look in keeping with the times. Despite this, the historic core has been retained including the daffodil colors and original floor tiles. How’s the food? Cheap. That’s probably the kindest thing you can say about it. Despite that, Gdański feels like an essential part of the community. (B1) ul. Andersa 33, fb.com/ bargdanskimuranow Belvedere Łazienki Królewskie Set in an imperial age glass orangery, it’s festooned with intricate latticework and botanical exotica. The updated interiors are the work of acclaimed set designer Boris Kudlicka, and lend a fresh, contemporary tone that goes hand in hand with the menu. But behind the gels and emulsions and pretty little swirls,

this is cooking of substantial depth; it’s cooking that takes you to the very soul of Polish nature. ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. 22 558 6701, belvedere.com.pl Bez Gwiazdek Hide the white tablecloth! One of the more discernible trends of 2016 saw chefs attempt to replicate fine dining standards but in casual surrounds. Few are more qualified to do so than Robert Trzópek, a man whose résumé includes experience gained in Noma and El Bulli. Seeking to ‘reinterpret forgotten Polish cuisine’, his tasting menu at Bez Gwiazdek leaves no doubt why local food fans repeat his name with reverence and awe. For this restaurant, 2017 promises to get even bigger. (E3) ul. Wiślana 8, bezgwiazdek. com.pl Bistro Pod Sowami Gloriously restored to its full Art Nouveau pomp, this corner tenement could prove a game changer for this gritty part of shabby, old Praga. Due to open any minute now, interiors have been fitted in a smart, pseudo-industrial style, while the cooking duties have been tasked to Damien Wajda (formerly Nowa Próżna). Previews of the menu promise classy interpretations of classic Polish, though prices have been kept pleasingly right bank and don’t hit the 50s. Full review coming soon. (F1) ul.

Okrzei 26, fb.com/bistropodsowami Czerwony Wieprz (Red Hog) An amusing restaurant that looks back at communism through a rose-tinted lens.

Under the glowering gaze of commie tyrants, staff dressed like obedient members of the party’s Youth League deliver hefty dishes from a cheeky menu that is in itself a collector’s item. (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 22 850 3144, czerwonywieprz.pl

Delicja Polska Looking stately (pink bows, gilt touches and immaculate linen) but never stuffy, Delicja have a modern Polish menu that includes sous-vide salmon marinated in beetroot leaves, then topped with horseradish foam and dill emulsion. Brilliant.

But then so was everything else we tried, including the exquisite seasoned roast

beef. (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 64, tel. 22 826 4770, delicjapolska.pl Dom Polski Almost like it was designed for the manor born, Dom Polski has the rarefied atmosphere of a country retreat: bow-tied staff who click their heels, decorative antiques and a menu that’s a sumptuous anthology of posh Polish cooking. When you need to give visitors a sense of classic Warsaw, Dom Polski is the first out of the hat. (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 2432, restauracjadompolski.pl Dom Polski Belwederska Accessed via curling pathways and bursting shrubs this restaurant conjures images of an aristocrat’s manor. The air of privilege matches a menu that’s rich in fanciful classics such as their signature goose. Elegant and exquisite, consider it your default choice for a taste of true Poland. (F8) ul. Belwederska 18A, tel. 22 840 5060, restauracjadompolski.pl Elixir by Dom Wódki There are some who call the food here ‘deconstructed Polish’. In actuality, ‘reconstructed’ would be closer to the mark. Chef Michał Tkaczyk has taken local classics and redrafted the recipes with the swoosh of a contemporary pen.

The outcome is a pleasure from start to finish: a life affirming żurek, a tartar that could fulfill ambassadorial duties for Poland, and a handsome beef tenderloin sprinkled with crispy potato shavings.

Thoughtful pairings with lesser-known, boutique vodkas add another dimension that serves to complete this pleasing, patriotic adventure. (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl Folk Gospoda If you missed the last train to Zakopane, then a night in Folk Gospoda is the next best thing. Kitted out like a typical tavern in the Tatras, it’s a good-humored celebration of mountain-slope traditions: heaps of meat and lard with plenty of vodka and song in between. (B3) ul. Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605, folkgospoda.pl Jaś & Małgosia Insouciant one moment, your best friend the next, the staff at Jaś & Małgosia show the two faces of Polish service brilliantly.

Reactivated a couple of years ago, this warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings gem has a story dating back to the 60s, and a great atmosphere primed for simple food and local drinks. (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 57, tel. 502 033 711, klubjasimalgosia.pl

GANESH URSYNÓW

Kafe Zielony Niedzwiedź The Green Bear has turned into the mothership for all things relating to slow food: if in doubt, check the menu, an ode to provenance that comes complete with detailed biographies of their suppliers. Using creative techniques, this restaurant modernizes Polish food and rolls it out inside a stylish building popular with people who look like they might well be famous. (E4) ul. Smolna 4, tel. 731 996 006, kafezn.pl Kieliszki na Próżnej You’ll find Kieliszki na Próżnej, the latest restaurant to mark the rehabilitation of Próżna, so named after the 1,116 wineglasses that hang tantalizingly over the bar. As an anchor feature the suspended glassware is arresting, and equaled only by a long stretch of wall art doodled by Mariusz Tarkawian. The food matches up to the interiors, with a modern Polish menu that – on our visit – involved a thick, brilliantly spreadable foie gras pate, a thick slab of brawn and a delicate piece of moist Baltic cod. It’s pure seasonal comfort. (C3) ul. Próżna 12, tel. 501 764 674, kieliszkinaproznej.pl

RESTAURACJA GANESH AL. KEN 21, WARSZAWA

Mała Polana Smaków BEST WAWA 2016 “Modern Polish” Put simply, it works on every level: from the service to the space – outside, a terrace featuring upcycled crates overlooking Morskie Oko, and on the inside, a cute little room with woodsy bits and big glass jars of mystery ingredients.

It’s casual, but still fit for more serious roles: e.g. girlfriend night. And the food: exceptional. Lots of seasonally changing choices that on our visit meant salmon sausage matched with beetroot and horseradish sauce along with pinches of lavender and fennel. (F9) ul. Belwederska 13/44, tel. 22 400 8048, polanasmakow.pl Opasły Tom Sneaked off a lively side street, guests duck down into a chain of two narrow-ish chambers that, whilst not exactly casual, feel comfortable and familiar. Reliant on the freshest local ingredients around,

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this restaurant’s strategy places an onus on seasonality whilst remaining fiercely creative. (E4) ul. Foksal 17, kregliccy.pl Papu Evoking the spirit of a gentleman’s manor, Papu looks every inch the classic Polish restaurant. Reliant on regional produce from mom & pop farmsteads, chef Bartek Kędra’s menu does a gold carat job of enhancing old-fashioned recipes through the use of modern techniques. (D9) al.

Niepodległości 132/136, tel. 22 856 7788, restauracjapapu.pl Podwale Piwna Kompania Prowling mountain bands generate a beer hall atmosphere, while the courtyard garden – designed to replicate a Mitteleuropa square – is one of the best you’ll find. But the obscene portions can’t mask what is pretty poor food. Go there for the experience, if nothing else. (D2) ul.

Podwale 25, tel. 22 635 6314, podwale25.pl Prasowy Delicate diners turn their back on milk bars, yet this canteen-style phenomenon, with its history rooted in communism, has enjoyed a remarkable renaissance and a freshly found popularity with a new generation. Sure, the food is an acquired taste and best described using words like ‘basic’, ‘bland’ and ‘honest’, but Prasowy gets our vote for a cool design that’s seen the 1954 interiors sensitively updated.

(E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16 Restauracja Pod Gigantami All pomp and splendor, huge portraits of monarchs in ermine stare down from the walls; pristine parquet floors gently creak underfoot; from another chamber, the sound of clinking glasses whispers through the air. Yet as much as the interior makes an impact it fails to steal the show. That belongs to Paweł Zieliński, a chef whose biography includes a stint at the Michelin starred L’Ecrivain in Dublin. Now back in Poland, his menu is a patriotic proclamation of all that is good.

It’s here the Insider enjoyed its favorite żurek of 2016. (E5) Al. Ujadowskie 24, tel.

22 629 2312, podgigantami.pl Restauracja Polska “Różana” The rarified atmosphere of Różana is a pleasure indeed. Close to the frontline of Mokotów / Śródmieście, you’d never

NEW SEASONAL MENU

Ul. Pańska 85 tel. 512 671 756, 22 253 30 30 panska85.com.pl

EAT! Listings

‘Simplicity, elegance and atmosphere’

Cafe • Wine Bar • Restaurant • Whisky Bar • Wine Cellar ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 515 037 001 www.hoza.warszawa.pl www.facebook.com/hoza25 Open 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-21:00

guess the proximity of the center. Seated in their garden, one feels removed from the city – a fountain burbles quietly in the background, starlings hop around the trees. From the inside, one hears the distant tinkle of the house pianist. Just being here is a thrill in itself, and the food is a Polish dining extravaganza served from the top table: farmhouse duck, saddle of venison, etc. (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 22 848 1225, restauracjarozana.com.pl

the big spend category, but visitors come away with a common sense of wonderment. That’s largely due to enchanting interiors that have guests exploring twinkling chambers that unravel like a fairytale. Set in a 500 year old townhouse, the beautiful backdrop is accompanied by a grand menu of duck, venison, veal and lamb. (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 27 (Old Town Market Square), tel. 22 831 1013, ufukiera.pl

Słoik Jarheads will love Słoik, a place lined with glass jars brimming with colorful ingredients and bright preserves. Find natural Polish produce and traditionalsounding dishes treated with a careful and contemporary hand. The approach pits modernist against classic, and the winner is, well, you. This is traditional Polish food updated for the discerning, latter day palate – and it’s really quite something. (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 600 396 688, restauracjasloik.pl

U Szwejka Named after the fictional Czech soldier Szwejk, the food here would certainly appeal to the tubby man himself.

Bestowed with Prague street signs, the food is a hardy, meaty affair, and arrives in XXXL portions. The price to quantity (Note: not quality) ratio guarantees queues (yes, queues) that stretch out on the street every weekend. (D6) pl.

Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1710, uszwejka.pl eekend.

Solec 44 Solec 44 does nothing if not challenge gastronomic norms. Found on the upper floor of a shabby Communist pavilion, the versatility of this place makes it great to hang out with friends over beer and board games: it’s not often you find faces from the TV in the same room as student types, but that’s the kind of inclusive atmosphere here. The biggest draw though is the chef, Aleksander Baron.

Combing the farms and forests of Poland for ingredients, his obsession with old baroque recipes, nose-to-tail cooking and forgotten fermentation processes is inspiring to all who adore cooking. (F4) ul.

Solec 44, tel. 798 363 996, solec.waw.pl Stary Dom A classic restaurant in style and history: back in the day it was a favorite haunt of jockeys and race goers from the horse track nearby. Pre-war recipes form the basis of the menu, with the team using seasonal produce and the latest technology to bring out its best. ul. Puławska 104/106, tel. 22 646 4208, restauracjastarydom.pl U Fukiera New arrivals looking to get a grasp of local cuisine have many options in varying price brackets. U Fukiera is definitely in

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Zapiecek Seven Warsaw locales, with our favorite found in the vaulted passages of Świętojańska. The menu is highly traditional, with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’. It’s for the pierogi though for which they’re famous; find approx. fifty types delivered by servers dressed like saucy country maids. Locations inc. ul.

Nowy Świat 64, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska 13, tel. 22 635 61 09, & ul. Wańkowicza 1, zapiecek.eu Warszawski Sen By Mateusz Gessler A quite stunning restaurant dominated by dark geometric patterns and the installations and ideas of guerilla artist Tomasz Górnicki. Once you’ve caught your breath and snapped off a few pics for your Instagram, settle in for a menu that gives Polish ingredients a highly contemporary treatment. If you thought Hala Koszyki was buzzing, then this edgy space is perhaps its biggest buzz of all. ul.

Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki), mateuszgessler.com.pl Zielnik A quiet Mokotów side street is the setting for this little secret. In it, flowers, lots of

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EAT! Listings them, and a warming wood interior just right for winter. In summer, head instead to their glorious garden across the street in the park: adding a sophisticated twist to the holy grill, the skewered lamb is to die for. (D10) ul. Odyńca 15, tel. 22 844 3500, restauracjazielnik.pl

russian Skamiejka As a social point, this family-run restaurant works incredibly well. Located at the far end of Ząbkowska, it’s a place filled with assorted clutter and Russian bits and pieces: album covers, books, jars of pickles and jumble sale finds. The welcome is second-to-none, while beverages include a wide range of vodka and beer from the former Soviet-bloc nations.

The food though is a bit of a massacre.

Take the zharkoe: what should be a thick and hefty pot roast is limp and placid and empty of taste. ul. Ząbkowska 37, tel. 512 123 967, fb.com/skamiejka

scandinavian Nabo The décor is, we’re told, typical Danish cafe – bold open windows, simple lines, high shelves filled with books and games on the table. But what is Danish food? There’s Old Danish on the menu: meatballs and open face sandwiches with meat and fish in various textural configurations and then there’s New Danish: an emerging trend towards fresh, seasonal food (no microwave oven at Nabo), with locally sourced and innovatively concocted ingredients. ul.

Zakręt 8, tel. 22 842 0256, nabocafe.pl

seafood Lokal na Rybę Seafood doesn’t play a particularly distinguished role in Warsaw’s culinary history, so the opening of a good fish restaurant tends to get the locals talking. But Lokal isn’t just good, it goes several steps beyond. Open just three days a week (Thu-Sat, evenings only), the rotating

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menu presents a handful of daily choices against a simple, no pretense interior that’s often packed solid – reservations come recommended, as do the mussel dishes. (D9) ul. Kwiatowa 1/3/4, fb.com/ lokalnarybe U Rysia Devoid of frills bar a glowing neon sign and a brooding mural of Jesus, it looks like a Polish fish restaurant should – basic but with an undercurrent of bustle that keeps the mood bright. It tastes like the real thing as well. Sourcing their catch from the freshwater lakes of northern Poland, the offer is divided into fish that have been smoked, steamed, fried or baked. Check out the perch ‘chips’ fried in batter. (C4) ul. Marszałkowska 140 (enter from ul. Rysia), urysia.com.pl

specialty food shops Bazar Olkuska Once a sad little side street, Olkuska has evolved to become just about the worst kept secret in Warsaw. Home to the city’s top eco-market, trips here end with shopping bags filled with French cheeses, Italian hams, Hungarian sausages and fresh fruit and veg. (E10) ul. Olkuska 12 Befsztyk The Prokopowicz family has come a long way since launching Befsztyk in 1994. Top restaurants, celebs and ex-pats are listed as clients, and all agree that this operation is indisputably ‘top of the chops’. Find steaks seasoned for three weeks, glutenfree smoked meats, Merino lamb, BBQ kits and so much more. Home delivery, internet ordering and English-speaking staff round out this legend. many locations, befsztyk.pl

BioBazar Open on Wednesday, Friday and Saturday, the BioBazar was the first farmers’ market in Warsaw, and remains its biggest and most famous. Currently occu-

pying a set of derelict factory warehouses, they’ll be moving at the end of November to Mokotów. For details, see p. TK. (B4) ul. Żelazna 51/53, biobazar.org.pl British Shop British food and beverages inc. cider, bacon, sausages, gluten free ready meals, confectionary etc. Run by the same team who once operated Fish & Chips on Koszykowa, the offer has now expanded to cover non-food items like Royal Wedding souvenirs, England football paraphernalia etc. (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 8, tel. 692 240 804 The Crazy Butcher Grzegorz Kwapniewski, better known as ‘Warsaw’s celebrity butcher’, has a new store in town, that being a corner unit in Hala Koszyki. Named by chefs across town as their principal source of meat, Kwapniewski’s offer includes Polish Red Angus, long-seasoned, marbled beef, not to mention veal, lamb, poultry and cured meats from small scale producers. ul.

Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki) Dobrze Co-op The Dobrze Food Co-op aims to ‘widen access to healthy, seasonal food’ while also supporting sustainable agriculture.

Founded in summer, 2014, the project collaborates with over 20 farms and local businesses and sells fresh vegetables and fruit alongside cereals, dried goods and other bits and pieces. ul. Wilcza 29A & ul. Andersa 27, dobrze.waw.pl Forteca Kregliccy Spot the stars of Warsaw’s restaurant scene perusing the stalls at this weekly farmers’ market. Held each Wednesday, look for Pan Ziółko, Poland’s first celebrity farmer (!), Portobello’s from the country’s only organic mushroom farm and the magical yogurts from Mleczna Droga Manufaktura Serów. ul. Zakroczymska 12, kregliccy.eu/forteca Hala Gwardii Taking its cue from the market places of Lisbon and Marseilles, Hala Gwardii aims to reprise its former pre-war role as the city’s best-known food market. Designed to complement rather than compete with Hala Mirowska outside, the market is a sensory big bang with dozens of stalls specializing in everything from cheese

EAT! Listings and sausages, to rolled Thai ice cream and posh pet supplies. (C3) Pl. Mirowska 2, fb.com/halagwardii Kosher Shop Snuck to the side of the synagogue, stock up on Kosher produce from the friendly store, before hitting up the falafel tent outside for, aside from the obvious, kosher ice cream. (C4) ul. Twarda 6 Kuchnie Świata The first stop for most ex-pats, with an offer that includes food and drinks from across the globe. The choice is vast but mainly involves tinned and packaged products. Internet ordering now also available. Various locations, kuchnieswiata. com.pl Samira Now in bigger and better premises, this Lebanese supermarket offers a comprehensive rundown of imported goods that ranges from spices, preserves and rubs to nuts, olives, teas and soft drinks. ul. Powsińska 64A, tel. 22 825 3363, samira.pl Targ Śniadaniowy The idea is a bit different as it is out in the open air, on the grass, so good weather is a must. Part healthy food market, part breakfast picnic, part educational space, part chance to get your two wheeler fixed but above all, an idyllic way to spend a Saturday morning in a beautiful part of town. Now also present in three other locations: check their web for details.

Al. Wojska Polskiego, tel. 508 121 891, targsniadaniowy.pl

steak houses Beef n’ Pepper A social space that encourages friends to gather and make merry over big meaty courses. Served on heavy tree stump plates, steaks here use Polish Angus aged for a 28-day period. If you’re into the concept of sharing with your fellow man, then the Beef n’Pepper plate offers a pile of everything: wings, ribs, steak. (C5) ul. Nowogrodzka 47A, tel. 785 025 025, beefandpepper.pl

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Butchery & Wine The Sarf London-born Bertha oven has revolutionized the way steak is cooked, retaining moisture in a way no-one thought possible. Expect robust pieces of animal full of big, brawny tastes, but there’s so much more than just meat: starters involve a sea bass ceviche that pings with citrusy flavor not to mention more-ish pork crackling that pop like fire bangers in the mouth. A place of energy and ambition, it’s a great mix of both new and classic. Bookings advised.

(D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 502 3118, butcheryandwine.pl

in an atmosphere that’s all surreptitious conversation and distant clinking glasses. The steaks are out-of-this world, with USDA prime beef from New York’s legendary Ottomanelli & Sons and Scottish beef from London’s Smithfield Market. On our last visit we splurged on the Grade 9+ wagyu ‘kobe’ rib-eye and found ourselves eating the steak of a lifetime. (E10) ul. Merliniego 5, tel. 22 646 0810, merliniego5.pl

Downtown Restaurant There’s now a few candidates for Warsaw’s best steak, and Downtown have certainly upped the erm, stakes, with their new menu. Yes, the doors of Downtown are a gateway to heaven – particularly true if, like us, your vision of heaven is a rich green field filled with fat, juicy cows. But don’t for one moment assume the offer ends with cows. (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental Hotel, level 2), tel. 22 328 8745

San Thai The most successful business model pioneered in recent years? That’s the work of Thaisty, a bright, cheerful spot with a ‘street style’ and moderate prices – queues, at times, stretch out the door.

In many ways, San Thai can be accused of emulating that blueprint: informal, airy surrounds; fair price points; and a menu that covers enough bases while never becoming overwhelming. But this is more than a mere copycat, and so far San Thai have found themselves commended for their fiery recipes and diverse range of dishes. A half-decent wine selection adds to the impression that this street is taking off as something of a scene. (C3) ul.

Próżna 10, restauracjasanthai.pl

Ed Red Warszawa can tell they’re serious about their meat just by looking at the starters: big, juicy marrow bones, mountain oysters, blood sausage and calf’s brain. The steaks are the calling card though, and here you’ll find them dry aged and consumed with the aid of hunting knives. The desserts seem a lumpy afterthought, but they get enough right elsewhere (even decent craft beer at the bar) to keep that little more than a mild annoyance. Pl. Mirowski 1, edred.pl You Hoża Wine and steak: it sounds so simple, but Hoża have taken two simple pleasures to another level. It’s an ebullient space with service right out of charm school, and a kitchen team with a real knowledge of cows. A red-blooded affair, the menu is a steak sensation and well paired with a handpicked wine list.

(D5) ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 603 778 275, hoza. warszawa.pl Merliniego 5 A classic looking steakhouse that swirls in shadow, brickwork and elegant touches, it’s a place to immerse yourself

thai

Silk & Spicy If you don’t benchmark Silk & Spicy against what you’d eat in Asia (and you really shouldn’t), then you might enjoy it. “The curry was on taste-wise,” said our disappointed graphic, “but the cream cheese didn’t work in the sushi and the kmichi-style salad served at the beginning was very pedestrian for such a place.” (D5) ul. Żurawia 16/20, tel. 22 629 7012, silkandspicy.pl Thai Thai In terms of design it’s little short of perfect: gold vaulted interiors lend a muted glow to a largely black on black space while serene looking Buddha’s peer on the diners below. As for the food, that’s one big success story with plenty of lively flavors and dynamic colors. The Tom Yang Kung, a deeply nourishing fish broth that awakens the senses with a sharp, spicy jolt, is a must! (C2) Pl. Teatralny 3, tel. 601 818 283, thaithai.pl

EAT! Listings Thaisty The coup here has been the recruitment of Chanunkan Duangkumma, Warsaw’s favorite Thai chef. The menu has street food inspirations and also includes several recipes passed down Duangkumma’s family line: consider the BBQ beef skewers essential. Vivid colors and a busy open kitchen lend the place a happy buzz that lasts through the day. (C2) Pl. Bankowy 4, tel. 730 000 024, thaisty.pl Why Thai A calming, almost holistic interior sets the tone for a meal dominated by the rich and aromatic tastes of Thailand. For a lively, spicy start begin with a mango and cashew salad, before moving forward and onto their celebrated curries.

Imported chefs keep the flavors authentic, with the pad Thai being something of a house favorite. (E5) ul. Wiejska 13, tel. 22 625 7698, whythai.pl Wi-Taj Despite the name, it’s actually the cuisine of Vietnam that is the dominant entity in this restaurant. There is the odd moment of madness (glazed cherries appearing at random), but in general Wi-Taj does a grand job of representing a kitchen that hasn’t always enjoyed the greatest publicity in Warsaw. The crunchy, perky nem are a fine way to start, but it’s the steaming bowls of pho that have this Insider promising to return. As for prices, these rarely climb north of zł. 30. (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 4

vegan & wholefood Bar Stołeczny So far we’ve seen Warsaw’s vegan scene embrace Mexican cuisine, Italian, Japanese, Thai and lord knows what else. Stołeczny’s kitchen chooses to keep things closer to home, instead sourcing inspiration from the milk bars of yore.

It’s a simple selection of pancakes and pierogi here, but one that’s also simply done well. Tuck in inside a basic interior with a green gingham motif – sometimes, you don’t need much else. (D5) ul.

Poznańska 7, fb.com/barstoleczny

Dżungla Dżungla presents two Warsaw trends and unites them under one roof: craft beer and vegan food. They might sound like they make for odd bedfellows, but there’s nothing wrong with the results.

Despite the panda motif and Asian-style wood-clad interior, the menu’s focus is wider than imagined and includes some rather interesting meat-free skewers to enjoy. ul. Dereniowa 2 Edamame Vegan Sushi Sushi without its star ingredient sounds ridiculous, but this vegan sushi joint manages to out-manoeuver its traditional competitors by replacing below-par fish with fresh, vegetarian produce: sugar snap peas, radish, carrots, asparagus, etc. The results are both magical and addictive, and leave you wondering if vegan sushi stands to be Warsaw’s next trend. (D5) ul. Wilcza 11, edamame.pl Falafel Bejrut Light, bright and buzzing with custom, this cheerful venture has a small scattering of seating and an expanded menu whose talking point is award-winning falafel. The hummus, too, is pretty amazing. (B2) ul.

Nowolipki 15 Krowazywa Packed with girls wearing skating clothes and moon boots, this burgery makes a big boast that their whole menu is 100% plant-based and their food compiled using ‘the best, freshest, unprocessed and full-balanced ingredients.’ The Warzywex, a burger composed of marinated and grilled slices of local veg, is an absolute winner. (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 27/35, tel.

881 777 894 ul. Hoża 29/31, krowarzywa.pl ul. Hoża 29/31, krowarzywa.pl

Ecological menad certified

From 25 of November ecological shopping on Wołoska 3 stree t Wednesday 10-18, Friday 10-18 and Saturday 8-16

more than

10 0 ve n d or s

Lokal Vegan Bistro Aside from a small menu consisting of more standard vegan offers, Lokal keep Homer Simpson characters in mind with regular guest slots for street food that’s given a full vegan makeover. Offhand, that’s meant vegan kebabs, cheesesteaks, burgers and zapiekanka, all of which have been pretty damn good. (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, 517 615 122 Momencik Vegan burritos may sound wrong, but at Momencik they’re every bit as good warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings as anything you’ll be used to. The only difference is that you won’t leave feeling like you’ve eaten a sack of socks: on the contrary, it’s got all the perky flavor that Mexican food should have, but none of the unpleasant post-meal bloaty bubbles. And it’s cheap! Diners fork out less than zł. 22 for a lunch deal that includes homemade lemonade, a burrito and soup of the day: it’s your lucky day if that happens to be their tomato soup. (D5) ul. Poznańska 16 Vegan Ramen Shop Co-joining two fads is always a risky business – just ask Loco Mexicana. All of a sudden, the focus doesn’t fall on just getting one thing right, but two. But despite this double-headed challenge Vegan Ramen have struck gold on account of their complex bowls of restorative goodness: their fan base extends way beyond the boundaries of Saska Kępa. Enjoy in a cool interior filled with cute Japanese props on dozens of ‘levitating shelves’.

(G3) ul. Finlandzka 12A Veg Deli An entrance beset with candles, plant pots and seasonal veg charms people in, and they tend to stay on to dine on creative vegetarian options that nearly always hit the spot. The tacos are a bit of a disappointment, but the quinoa burger is fabulous, and the homemade Russian pierogi an absolute highlight. Even committed meat eaters recognize there’s

something special going on here. (E3) ul.

Radna 14 Wars i Sawa w Nowym With its wide spaces, high ceilings and echoing sense of clatter, there’s something of a canteen spirit to Wars i Sawa. Occupying a chunk of the Nowy Teatr, it gets particularly busy after performances – and rightly so. Fresh, seasonal and well-presented, the food here is vegan, healthy and unerringly popular. The vege-burger sounds prosaic but is actually something of a star turn.

(E9) ul. Madalińskiego 10/16 Weranda Bistro Warmly decorated with shrubbery and dangling paper decoys, Weranda’s design is thoughtful enough to be in equilibrium with the wider Koszyki setting, yet sufficiently distinct to stand apart from the crowd. Kudos, as well, to the food.

Celebrated for their salads, don’t expect to be pecking on morsels of rabbit food – instead, pepare for huge, leafy affairs assembled to look complex and intriguing.

Recommended is the Croatian salad which rrives ensconced inside jumbo leaves of lettuce and cascading with mango, shrimps, goat cheese and much more besides. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki), weranda.pl Youmiko Vegan Sushi Already well-established in Kraków,

Youmiko enter Warsaw’s vegan sushi market hot on the heels of Edamame on Wilcza nearby. There’s definitely more of a hipster, ‘urban guerrilla’ feel to Youmiko, but the sushi is every bit a success. Often better than ‘the real thing’.

(D5) ul. Hoża 62, youmiko.vg

vietnamese Oh My Pho A busy, family-run joint, OMP’s specific claim to fame is what many are terming the best and most authentic pho in the ward. Steamy and aromatic, this is pho as it should be: full of big herby thwacks, ribboning noodles, and soft strips of meat in a clear, restorative stock. Often cited as being the ‘soul of the nation’, just a few noisy slurps are all that’s needed to corroborate the life-affirming goodness of this beautiful broth... (D5) ul.

Wilcza 32, fb.com/ohmyphowilcza Viet Street Food Bistro What started out as a roaming food truck has settled down into life as a legitimate restaurant. Widely looked upon as the source of the best Vietnamese chow this city’s ever seen, the small menu reveals steaming bowls of pho and banh mi baguettes loaded with meat and greens.

(H4) ul. Królowej Aldony 5/2, fb.com/ vietstreetfoodpl

w

The award-winning Enoteka Polska welcomes guests to the heart of Warsaw’s historic New Town. A perfect combo of restaurant, wine bar and wine store, aside from offering excellent Italian cuisine, we are a renowned importer with a portfolio of prestigious wine labels from across Europe. Our direct import policy allows guests to enjoy outstanding value for money.

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Rynek Nowego Miasta 13/15, enotekapolska.pl tel. 882 048 012

DRINK!

PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

STREET TALK

Though originally scheduled to launch two years back, it wasn’t until earlier this year that Cyderia finally made their debut and opened for business... but the business didn’t come. Closed within six months of operations, the failings of Cyderia have been a lesson learned. Not to be discouraged, the same owners have re-branded and reopened: Ul is the result. Cool and current, the menu has been globalized to feature several exotic twists, while the drinks list expanded to feel more inclusive. Set against a rough-chic design of painted brickwork and dangling lights, it’s the atmosphere that’s made the biggest progress: come night it feels dark and divey, the kind of place you head to party.

And party you will – closing at two during the week and four (and beyond) at the weekend, the vibe is hard and energetic and befitting of Poznańska.

Ul ul. Poznańska 16 warsawinsider.pl

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TIME FOR WINE

With the Autumn chill upon us, the time is right to seek solace in Warsaw’s wine bars.

This month, sommelier Ewelina Brdak of Rozbrat20 talks about both her and the city’s relationship with the grape...

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PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

Drink!

Interview Where does the wine industry stand in Poland...

Poles are traveling more than ever and as a result they’ve become open to new tastes and, of course, new wines. That’s helped the market develop. We’re seeing places and people focus more on the quality of the product.

I love pairing wine with fish – there’s so many different structures and colors to consider, it’s interesting to sometimes go for a light red wine or maybe an orange wine.

Likewise, cheese is also great fun to experiment with and maybe opt for a sweet Tokaj.

How should I order: by the glass or by the bottle?

People are more interested in wine than ever before, and serving by the glass allows them to learn more and experience new tastes. If there’s a group then we’d recommend ordering by the bottle, though for smaller numbers then ordering by the glass is always more interesting: all of sudden you can try so many more new things – an organic wine, maybe an orange, a bio-dynamic wine or something from Poland.

What’s the best advice a sommelier can have?

Know when to back off – if a customer knows what he wants then don’t be pushy with your suggestions. There needs to be a chemistry between a guest and the sommelier, so if someone doesn’t want your advice then don’t be insistent.

What’s been your biggest test?

Pop Up Ferment (an event last year that saw a guest chef preparing a daily changing tasting menu) was a huge challenge – I’d try a dish and then have about thirty minutes to decide which wine to serve with it. That was a real learning curve.

How would you recommend a wine?

It’s what the guest likes that matters, not what I like. If someone is specific about which wine they like then I’ll maybe suggest a new wine in the same style – something that’s similar but just a little different.

Usually you’re able to get a good idea of what to offer: if a guest asks for a full-bodied Chardonnay then you can often work out what kind of tastes they prefer.

Do traditional wine rules still apply?

There are some rules I’d never break, for instance, a red wine with oysters, but many rules are changing and it’s fun to experiment every now and again.

What does a person’s choice say about them?

You shouldn’t judge a person on what wine they like. Neither is it important if someone is at the beginning of their journey with wine, or if their knowledge is intermediate – the key point is that they have fun with wine.

As a sommelier do you have a favorite food to pair with?

It’s still a male-oriented industry – is that a challenge?

A lot has changed, even in just the last five years – look at this year’s Junior Sommelier’s Championship that took place recently: four of the finalists were women.

You’ve visited vineyards across the world – does one particular one standout?

The first place I visited as a wine tourist will always be the most memorable: the Meroni vineyard not far from Verona. It’s a small, family-run vineyard and a great place to learn about the production of wine. I stayed a week, picking grapes and eating pasta prepared by an Italian mama! The bigger vineyards have beautiful machinery and are great to visit, but the atmosphere here was something else.

Actually, the family visited us here in Poland – it was a stressful experience serving their wine, but they enjoyed it!

AUTUMN PICKS COS, ‘Rami’, Sicily, Italy 2014 “A blend of two grapes, this wine is almost orange and has notes of apricot, exotic citrusy twists, nut and honey – it’s great with quince, pork belly, salsify and beef tartar.”

Santa Roc, Gigondas, 2011 “Not hugely well-known in Poland, which is why I chose this – it’s a dark, deep rid with an almost peppery kick. Game, lamb, and goulash with onions and mushrooms are perfect for this wine.”

Tenuta di Trinoro, ‘Le Cupole’, Tuscany, Italy 2013 “When I smell this wine I see beef! It’s a little smokey in taste and feel, so it works well with beef, venison and red fruits like chokeberry and blackberry.

I’d also recommend it alongside beef short rib and pumpkin.”

warsawinsider.pl

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Drink! Review bars & pubs The Alchemist The great British tradition of ‘a pint after work’ is gathering steam in PL, thanks in part to places like this. Lively and cosmopolitan, The Alchemist’s broad ranging appeal – not to mention ‘self-service beer wall’ – makes it a winning gathering point for 5 p.m. drinks. (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 3, thealchemist.pl

Bar Studio The ascetic, modern décor is intentional – both not to compete with the fine adornment of the original walls and to break through the building’s grandiose airs. It’s hard not to be overawed by the sheer gigantism of the Palace of Culture that looms above. It seamlessly slips from café during the day into its more culturally active persona in the evenings, with concerts, film screenings, plays and political discussions. (C4) Pl. Defilad 1, barstudio.pl

Bar Gemba Despite occupying the bottom corner of an office development Gemba isn’t short of character: that is, at least, if you measure character by the number of thrift store armchairs and vintage extras.

Furbished with lampshades, luggage and varying odds and ends, it’s the kind of dark, debauched bar that trended amongst artsy Poles in the early 00s. (D5) ul. Wilcza 50/52

Bar Pacyfik Candy floss pink and ocean blue? Remarkably, these colors work thanks to lighting that’s kept dimmed and dark: inspired by 80s Mexico City, Pacyfik looks and feels raw and gritty, hip and happening. Catering to more than just the overspill from Hala Koszyki, this hangout has assumed immediate cult status and the kind of street terrace buzz that shouts summer in the city. Tip: Bloody Maria is Poland’s best hangover cure. (C5) ul. Hoża 61

Bazar There’s Krusovice, Bernard and Staropramen on tap, and the Czech slant is lent added meat by a series of evenings held in cahoots with the Czech Cultural Centre – it’s during boozy disco nights the party spills into a shadowy cellar with light retro hints. On ground level its raw and industrial with asphalt colors and overhead pipes. You wouldn’t expect it, but the margaritas are smashing. (F1) ul.

Jagiellońska 13

Beirut As hip as ever, Beirut has walls dusted with cult album covers, documentary posters and witty graffiti inspired by Banksy. Busy in the day, and absolutely packed at night, order unconventional beers from androgynous staff standing behind a sandbag bar decorated with silver hand grenades and a model tank.

(D5) ul. Poznańska 12, beirut.com.pl

e B E Z przy sad Bez Przesady Bar Though largely getting noticed for their tasty, low-budget Polish menu, the bar part of the deal is kept up by a beer selection that covers everything brewed by Żywiec’s regional beer wing: Browar Zamkowy Cieszyn. The white, bright interiors are given a funky twist by a Space Invaders-style mosaic. (D6) ul.

Piękna 56, fb.com/bezprzesadybar

British Bulldog In terms of aesthetic it’s the most accurate replica of an English pub you’ll find. And they get a further nod for a brilliant covered terrace that’s great in all weather. Not that you’ll find many British expats in here, they’ve been boycotting the place ever since the dismissal of the original British manager. Judging by the poor standards of beer and food, you might want to follow their example. What could have become an expat legend is, in essence, a big wet plop of disappointment.

(D4) ul. Aleje Jerozolimskie 42, bbpub.pl

Central Bar The beer (supplied by Bierhalle) is fine, the cocktails getting better, and the atmosphere cranked to max: you get the buzzy sense that you’re in the middle of something that’s captured Warsaw’s imagination – the outdoor terrace is one of the places to be seen this summer. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki)

ENTER THE WORLD OF ROOM 13

ROOM13 is the heart of the club basin at the legendary Mazowiecka Street.

Perfect location in the center of Warsaw, modern interiors combined with historic architecture and top-class music - all these qualities make Room13 the best choice on the Warsaw’s club map.

The club is located in the 19th century tenement house in the heart of Warsaw.

The unconventional club has been adapted to represent the interiors of the pre-war company’s premises.

Opening hours: Thursday - Sunday 22nd - last guest Mazowiecka 13 • www.room13.pl • fb.com/room13club

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Ceska With its fake brickwork and shameless proliferation of Pilsner paraphernalia, the general feeling is that Ceska feels forced and phony – looking like it was fitted out to a rigid company blueprint, it’s more like the kind of theme pub you’d find off Leicester Square. Service, meanwhile, can be surly, forgetful and occasionally plain hostile. The ‘tank’ pouring system is a considerable plus: try the ‘mliko’, a full pint of creamy foam that can be sunk in a swig. (D4) ul. Chmielna 35, ceska.pl Chłodna 25 After several closures, noise clampdowns and a change in management you’d imagine C25 to be a mere shadow of what it once was. But after a slow start the new

DRINK! Listings owners appear to have rescued this listing vessel and returned it to it best. On the ground floor it’s a place of creaking floorboards and retro armchairs, while the basement gets opened for experimental music nights and improvised orchestras.

(B3) ul. Chłodna 25, klubchlodna25.pl

Czeska Baszta There’s a growing number of Czech pubs in Warsaw, but none do it better than the original. Tucked inside one of the weird turrets that support Poniatowski Bridge,

discover divey Czeska immersed in a foggy, yellow-ish glow. Boisterous but extremely friendly, there’s a reason for all the man hugs and back slaps: everyone’s drunk! The cupboard-sized smoking room is where most of the fun happens, and while there’s a good choice of Czech craft beers in the fridge, the real reason to visit are the frothy pints of lager sourced from the owner’s favorite small town breweries.

(E4) Tower 22A, Most Poniatowskiego, czeskabaszta.pl

enough to justify calling it a rum bar. The place rocks though. (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, fb.com/KrakenRumBar

Legends Over the years Legends has earned a legendary status amongst the expats and Anglophiles. Their cause is helped by touches such as a proper darts board, Sky Sports and a traditional menu that’s as authentically English as the Downing Street cat. Presiding over it all is Graham, a seasoned expat and Everton nut. (C5) ul.

Emilii Plater 25, legendsbar.pl

Elephant Belgian Pub Signposted by a jolly, dancing elephant, this Belgian pub presents its cause the moment you enter – there’s twenty or so taps laid right out in front, and to the left a fridge that’s expected to top out to cover 200 beers. The design is basic – brickwork, beer kegs and varying ephemera of the brewing trade – but it doesn’t need that much more: it’s about the beer, after all. (C1) ul. Freta 19 Grizzly Gin Bar More prone than ever to global trends, news that the international gin revival has hit Warsaw comes as no real bombshell.

The style in Grizzly is dark and hip with the design largely limited to moody lighting, some witty murals and a bank of outdated TV sets, while the smoking room is great for accidental meetings with curious characters. Serving their own ‘Grizzly lager’ as well as numerous cocktails based on different craft gins, it’s fast becoming the latest night in the area.

Między Nami With 18 years of service under their belt you may think of Między Nami as being an antiquated has-been. Not so.

Haunted by a mix of media types and local characters, this hip white piece of post-commie Warsaw has an enduring, almost timeless appeal. (D4) ul. Bracka 20, miedzynamicafe.com

Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’ Approximately twenty bars occupy a series of low-budget prefabricated cabins, presenting possibly the highest density of bars in the capital: in summer, it feels like one big street party. Adding to the gentle sense of confusion comes the realization that so many bars look the same – accessed through clattery, barred doors, visitors walk into what can only be described as murk. Klaps, with its dildo beer taps and phallic walls, is probably the most well-known of the lot. (D4) Enter from ul. Nowy Świat 26

(D5) ul. Wilcza 46

Hard Rock Cafe Full Throttle cocktails, lively staff and a classic rock soundtrack: the energy of HRC is hard to find fault with. And on the rare occasion there is a lull in the night, use the opportunity to sniff around memorabilia that includes a black leather number once worn by Madonna. (C5) ul.

Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), hardrockcafe.pl

Państwo Miasto Is there anything better than sitting in a café, book in hand, while summer sunshine pours through the windows? We go to Państwo to do just that, an echoey, cavernous café with a young, lively crowd that’s keen on scholastic events and political causes. Never does it feel too trendy, or too hipster – it’s a place that’s all about atmosphere and friendship. (B1) ul. Andersa 29, panstwomiasto.pl

Kraken Rum Bar Named after one of the ocean’s most feared mythical creatures (the scary squid from Pirates of the Caribbean), the woodclad Kraken features a wall of cymbals, heavy furniture and some interesting photography. While there’s some decent bottles of rum, there’s perhaps not

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Paradox Billing themselves as a ‘sci-fi / gamers / role play asylum’ this is a cradle of geeks, nerds and people who collect serial killer memorabilia. Decorated with plastic black crows, a map of Mordor and figurines of goblins, watch as oddly attired suspects

DRINK! Listings engross themselves in ‘for hire’ games with names like Hobbit and Bewoulf. (B1) ul. Anielewicza 2, paradox-cafe.pl

Plan B Plan B is the very essence of dive Warsaw.

Weekends pass by in a raucous blur, with the party spilling out under the colonnades outside – it helps to look like a DJ, but in truth everyone is welcome.

The hangover from this shabby, grubby bar is traumatic. (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), planb.pl

Rozrywki After a couple of years during which it had started to feel a little like yesterday’s man, ul. Mazowiecka has had a resurgence and its sense of self restored. Playing a part in this comeback is Rozrywki, a svelte bar with a clientele that values the importance of looking its best. Beyond the immediate appeal of the beauties and wannabes, the cocktails are the chief enticement and given star treatment by a competent staff who’ve been handed a quality set of tools with which to work with. ul. Mazowiecka 6/8 Sheesha Lounge Providing you don’t mind sharing the weekend with some of the most gloriously gorgeous people in the city, then a trip to Sheesha ticks all the boxes. Presenting itself in a whirl of action, the exotic, clubby atmosphere hits fever pitch come the midnight hour. Earlier, soak up the atmosphere with a scented hookah while lounging under eastern lights. (D5) Al. Jerozolimskie 33, sheesha.pl

Stixx It takes a moment to allow the sheer magnitude of Stixx sink in. Having adjusted to the wow factor of the interior – which can best be described as cosmopolitan-industrial – most retreat to the long, all weather deck which in itself is quite something: the aesthetics are such that a cocktail party on an oligarch’s yacht comes to mind. There aren’t many better places for a drink when the roof is rolled back and the stars twinkle above. (A4) Pl. Europejski 4A, tel. 22 340 4040, stixx.pl

Świetlica Long and narrow, dark and murky, it’s as raw as they come: toilets of grubby menace, a smoking room clad in spray

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art, broken fittings and general gloom.

Basically, it’s everything you demand from the last bar of the night – a place where you can slide into the shadows and watch the world spin around. (E7) ul.

Marszałkowska 17

Ulubiona Set inside the archway, look for a heavy door next to a dented ashtray seemingly unemptied for the last couple of months.

Shadowy and shabby, you’ll usually find barflies strumming guitars or engrossed in a solo game of chess. An intensely personal experience, it’s a bar that compensates for its lack of glitz with a stoner-style ambiance that soon sweeps over all. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 27 W Oparach Absurdu Hidden under Persian rugs, velvety drapes and reclaimed antiques, some still refer to it as The Spider Bar in reference to the giant tarantula that once hung from the wall. There’s an air of louche 60s living here, and it gets weirder when bands with names like the Bum Bum Orchestra enter to play trumpets amongst vodka-tipping guests. (F1) ul. Ząbkowska 6, oparyabsurdu.pl

Warszawa Powiśle The prime months for this former ticket booth arrive each summer when the deckchairs outside provide ample opportunity for the city’s young and fashionable to gather in an almost carnival-like atmosphere. Once seen as the hipster Center of Power, it still maintains great popularity with whiskered, tattooed sorts. (E4) ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B, warszawapowisle.pl

cafés Bistro Spatif Beautiful people need beautiful places.

Therefore, it’s a surprise that Mokotowska is so wanting when it comes to daytime venues to break from boutique bingeing.

Bistro Spatif redresses the balance presenting a narrow room that announces itself in a blast of tropical turquoise, bare brickwork and pristine parquet.

Immediately engaging, this compact cafe is everything you need during daylight hours – and once they’ve closed for the

evening, head across the courtyard to the larger, livelier Klub Spatif. (E5) ul.

Mokotowska 58, fb.com/bistrospatif

Blikle There’s a cultured, pre-war look to Blikle, a proud cafe with a 100-year history.

Famous former clients include Charles de Gaulle who swore by their donuts. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 35 (check website for other locations), blikle.pl

Bułkę przez Bibułkę There’s a feminine style to this cafe, what with its cute, girly pastels, petite plant pots and woodsy finishes. But no matter what your gender or age, there’s something immediately sunny and positive about this place. Slow food sandwiches arrive on wooden boards, there’s pretty homemade desserts and a careful choice of wine: falling in love with it is easy. ul. Puławska 24 & ul. Zgoda 3, bulkeprzezbibulke.pl

Być Może It’s all about artisan bread and breakfast in the industrial looking Być Może. It’s taken the concept of Charlotte (groan, there’s even a communal table), and improved it with excellent breads and a crowd that’s a little less pleased with itself. (E7) ul. Bagatela 14, bycmoze.com.pl Cafe & Lounge Bar But Good Music First Looking back, it’s been a pretty static year where the cafe scene is concerned.

But away from the depressingly familiar sight of a new Starbucks or Costa, there have been some glimmers of hope: the impossibly long name aside, noteworthy features of this suburban star number a stunning David Bowie mural by the street artist Skuha, and an interior composed of raw concrete finishes and beautiful lighting. ul. Rydygiera 13 Charlotte Menora If the air is smug and self-satisfied, there’s a good reason for that: Charlotte have come to embody modern urban Poland: energetic, ambitious and ferociously trend conscious. And to think, some look at it as a mere bakery. Occupying a long space, the latest outpost of this café chain doesn’t overlook the area’s Jewish heritage, with the menu featuring several Jewish delicacies: the bagels are ok. (C4) Pl. Grzybowski 2, bistrocharlotte.pl

DRINK! Listings Coffee Desk With Poznanska having reached critical mass, Wilcza now finds itself acting as a collection vessel catching the overspill.

Actually, that’s a disservice. An attraction on it’s own merits, it’s a street that’s gathering steam in terms of ‘see and be seen’. Aiding that overall vibe is Coffee Desk, a light and bright stop with a buzzy atmosphere, dynamic design and comprehensive choice. (D5) ul. Wilcza 42, fb.com/coffeedeskwilcza

Coffee Karma Order a smoothie, switch off the phone, open a book – it’s that sort of place.

Concerts and art shows figure in their repertoire, as does rather good coffee.

(D6) pl. Zbawiciela 3/5, coffeekarma.eu

Cophi So small you get the idea you could fit Cophi into the palm of your hand, yet no other place in Warsaw is more devoted to sourcing the best coffees in the world.

(D5) ul. Hoża 58/60

Czuły Barbarzyńca na Piwnej A Parisian-style bookstore full of steps and wobbles, nooks and alcoves. All agree there’s something special here: maybe it’s the book selection – varied, esoteric and at once compelling. Or maybe it’s the atmosphere, such that browsers anchor themselves on the sofas to lose an afternoon with their nose in a novel while sipping drip coffee.

(E3) ul. Piwna 20/26, czuly.pl

FatWhite_CoffeeBar Super small but perfectly packaged, features number coffee sourced from the acclaimed Kofi Brand and a pristine interior decorated with intriguing art that celebrates Muranów’s past. A personal chef by trade (that’s his Scooby Doo van parked outside), the sandwiches made by Filip are a thousand times superior to the standard coffee shop options. Though diminutive in its size, there’s something special going on here, something that’s good for you and positive for Andersa.

(C1) ul. Andersa 6

Kafka Café A chessboard floor and a collection of antlers on the wall characterize Kafka, a bookstore / café whose literary

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collection is composed of paperbacks rescued from recycling plants. Books are purchased by their weight (zł. 10 per kilo) while the menu includes pancakes, pastas and even doggy treats for your mutt. (E3) ul. Oboźna 3, kawiarnia-kafka.pl Kawiarnia Fabryczna Looking for a place in which to shut the world out and stick your nose in a book?

Head to this warm den to sink inside comfy retro chairs and soak up the natural light that pours through the window.

It’s a place to eavesdrop, catch-up on gmail and daydream the morning away.

The flat white is spot-on as well. (E3) ul.

Fabryczna 28/30, kawiarniafabryczna.pl

KluboKawiarnia Towarzyska With an interior modeled by John Strumiłło, this 50s pavilion has an ascetic design defined by polar white interiors.

Contrast is provided downstairs, with deep magenta walls and retro armchairs.

Concerts, screenings and art happenings have made it into something of local cultural mainstay. ul. Zwycięzców 49, klubokawiarnia.net

Kos Kos is a place intent on stitching the neighborhood together. That much is made clear by a diverse events calendar that features a panoply of activities: yoga courses to weekend brunches via the occasional kid’s improvisation class. As commendable as these social actions are, it’s the basics that Kos do so well.

Drenched in natural sunlight, perch on the windowsill and enjoy swift wifi, awardwinning coffee and a menu of homemade snacks and bits. (D4) ul. Chmielna 9A Krem A chic city center hangout with all the swanky, urban elegance of the 8th arrondisement. Opened by the same team behind Monsieur Leon, find their latest little baby decorated with monochrome tiles, marble-topped tables, and retro-styled mirrors. A place of hip sophistication and laid-back vibe, the menu is built around French cheeseboards, raclette and super sexy baguettes. (D6) ul. Śniadeckich 18 Mała Ziemiańska Sat as it is on a street that’s become the Center of Now, Mała Ziemiańska is

a pleasing throwback to slower times.

Designed to evoke the artistic spirit of the mid-19th century, this warming café is steeped in shadow and curiosities.

A celebration of pre-war Warsaw, the literary pretensions of this bolthole find the walls clad with archaic books and sepia photos of the city that once was. (D7) ul. Oleandrów 2/4, malaziemianska.pl

Matcha Tea House Renting the space once occupied by the legendary Bastylia, Matcha certainly have a big pair of boots to fill – but fill them they might. Beyond a comprehensive choice of matcha, find also an array desserts that use this green Japanese tea as their cornerstone ingredient. (D6) ul.

Mokotowska 17

Ministerstwo Kawy Sourcing their coffee from Koppi, an internationally acclaimed Swedish roasting house, the ministry takes no short cuts in their pursuit of excellence.

Utilizing Ethiopian, Costa Rican and Brazilian arabicas – some exclusive to Poland – barista Wojciech Rzytki has earned a reputation across Poland for his expert hand. Rave reviews are standard and appropriate. (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 27, ministerstwokawy.pl

MiTo Café, gallery, bookstore. Of course, we’ve seen that concept before, just not done in this style. Stark white backgrounds are offset by edgy art, lending the place a Tate Modern feel, something accentuated by the earnest fashion students who gather through the day. And there’s the toilet, a futuristic affair with piped music and a mirrored wall. (D6) ul. Waryńskiego 28, mito. art.pl

Monsieur Leon Found resting on the corner of a quiet residential street, Monsieur Leon is surely one of Mokotów’s best kept secrets. Here, simplicity is the name of the game, with a brief blackboard menu that involves cheese boards, salads and a hefty croque monsieur. (E8) ul. Sulkiewicza 5 Niezłe Ziółko Café & Deli A shrine to pure and healthy eating, this friendly café doesn’t just brew a great coffee, but bakes its own bread and produces its own yogurt. Sit in the loft

DRINK! Listings to look down on shoppers scurrying to Mokotowska, and on the way out, check out ‘Grandma’s Cupboard’ in the corner: jams, spreads and olive oils are there to buy for home. (D5) ul. Krucza 17 Relaks Generally travelling by tram for a cup of Joe sounds excessive, but that’s exactly what you’ll be doing on discovering Relaks. Expertly prepared, right down to the foam art, the baristas here use the finest imported machines and work only with fair trade, ‘specialty’ coffee. If you have time, the drip coffees are more than worth the wait. The interiors supply a retro accent, and are lapped up by a very fashion aware crowd. (E9) ul. Puławska 48 Resort Originally known for their OTT recycling motif (shopping trolleys re-purposed as seats, street signs as tables...), Resort have pared the design down replacing the old junk with a cool, caramel-colored look high on wood, plants and discreet retro accents. Craft beer, eco-friendly bites, clever cocktails and quality coffee contribute to their popularity, as does a busy events program that’s big on comedy and open mic nights. (C2) ul.

Bielańska 1

Bal If you thought Nowogrodzka was just about grungy craft beer dens then think again. Proving you wrong is Bal, a club that draws a pleasure-seeking party crew of waifish, wasted model-types and assorted hangers-on. Find them twerking away under one of the most interesting lighting arrangements in the city. (F5) ul.

Nowogrodzka 31, niechzyjebal.pl

Enklawa Forget Tinder, Enklawa is the best pick-up joint around – a classic kitschy, glitzy disco, it draws in huge crowds with a simple lineup of pop and dance hits. Still regarded as the best Wednesday night in Warsaw, it’s the place for singletons looking for a one-night confidence boost.

(D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, enklawa.com

Luztro Feeling naughty? Luztro enjoys a reputation for libertine behavior and illicit pharmaceuticals. Dark, grim and grotty, this after party stalwart gets going at about 4 a.m. on weekends when troglodyte club creatures emerge zombie-like to dance way past sunrise. Jaw grinding, rib rattling electro has never felt better. (E4)

Same Fusy Suffused in a candle-lit glow, this 15th century cellar unwinds to reveal a charming brick room suspended in time.

Filled with gnarled wooden oddities and tree stump tables, the sweet aroma of fragrant teas helps amplify the fairy tale mood. ul. Nowomiejska 10

Al. Jerozolimskie 6, luztro.pl

Stor Small but perfectly formed, Stor has all the clack and clatter of a busy local café.

Regional beers, Chemex and Aeropress coffee and gluten-free snacks and sandwiches provide plenty of reason to pop in and idle about. (E3) ul. Tamka 33

No Comment Found in one of the towers that prop up Most Poniatowskiego, a ‘sense of unknown’ manifests itself inside this weekend’s only club, a bi-level area whose small size adds to the air of mystery and exclusivity. Away from the prying eyes of Joe Public, find glittery, local celebs getting down and naughty.

Wrzenie Świata Those with journalistic leanings love Wrzenie Świata. It’s definitely more Macbook than Moleskine, but this bookstore/café attracts plenty of readers (and writers) to its book-lined interior.

Buzzing like a cafe should, it packs out for slideshows and seminars. (E4) ul.

Gałczyńskiego 7

clubs

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N58 The latest entry on Warsaw’s club circuit have issued a manifesto promising deep vocal house, r’n’b, mash-ups and theme nights centered around Afro Beats / trap / twerk and hip hop. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58

(F4) Al. 3 Maja 16/18A, Most Poniatowskiego

Ritual Looking dark and sensual, this two-level space unwraps before you like some elaborate adventure. Candles flicker, atmosphere crackles – moving towards the bar, slinky, sultry club creatures of

unfathomable beauty prowl past with drinks poised in hand. Heating up gradually as the night progresses, Ritual moves organically from being a voluptuous bar to a spicy club as the night ebbs towards its heady conclusion. (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, ritualwarsaw.com

Room 13 Connected by a series of inter-linking archways, rooms inside this dressy club throb at the weekends with a super sexy crowd letting loose under the vaulted ceilings. Now in their fifth year, it’s become a stalwart of the Mazowiecka scene. (D3) ul.

Mazowiecka 13, room13.pl

Sen Pszczoły Famous, infamous or a bit of both? Moving from their temporary digs in the Koneser Factory, the new-look Sen Pszczoły is every bit as murky as the previous: amid a heavy industrial background, find partygoers enjoying a mixed bag of events that range from didgeridoo performances to full-on techno that makes fillings pop out. ul. Grochowska 301/305, senpszczoly.pl

Smolna 38 One of the most secretive clubs there is: operating a strict no-pictures policy, being caught taking a selfie is a crime punished by expulsion – and how good is that!

Attracting a hardcore crowd, its a place of real sounds: forget the joke DJs most clubs settle for, Smolna’s agenda has thus far included the likes of Simian Mobile Disco and Ellen Allien. (E4) ul. Smolna 38 The View Sat on top of the Spektrum Tower this bar/club has reinvented the whole concept of going out in Warsaw. A truly world-class venture, the open-air deck on the 32nd floor offers striking views of the cityscape, first rate cocktails and an international rotation of DJs. No other club nails the champagne lifestyle with quite the same panache. (C4) ul. Twarda 18, theview.pl

cocktails 6 Cocktails If 6 Cocktails has the feeling of hanging around someone’s flat that’s because, actually, you are. This posh Mokotowska

DRINK! Listings apartment has been re-adapted as an exclusive bar frequented by leggy models and society figures: the parties are nuts!

Unmarked from street level, to enjoy the inventive cocktails message them on FB and await your invite. (E5) ul. Mokotowska 57

Bar & Books Wood-paneled and T lined withCleather-bound tomes, there’s a R P T M sense of dignity that’s unique to Warsaw’s C W cocktail scene.

There’s humor, as well, ≈ W C of portraits of chimps togged courtesy ≈ C outC like ≈18th century gentry. Similar to a T members’ only Mayfair bar, find ‘classic ≈ E withP a twist’ cocktails mixed and muddled ≈ L S of charming bartenders by the sort you’d trust serving Bond. While bills can P B B become weighty affairs, no one regrets the spend – plus, you can smoke here as well! (D2) ul. Wąski Dunaj 20, barandbooks.pl HE MOST

EFRESHINGLY LACES

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HAMPAGNE

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Tel.: +48 225.599.199

Bar Wieczorny The cocktails are serious here, with top quality spirits (Vestal, Baczewski, Woodford Reserve) used with equally big name mixes (Fentimans, Big Tom, etc.). Further, you’ll find it’s the right products in the V O L i n Y a P right hands – the staff really know their www.barandbooks.pl game.

(D8) ul. Wiśniowa 46, barwieczorny.pl isit

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Bardziej It’s thanks to places like Bardziej that Oleandrów is becoming one of the most talked about streets around. This splitlevel bar does a good job of capturing the essence of the area, with inventive ‘author’s cocktails’ matched against a warm, dimly lit interior that’s heaving with cogs, metal hooks and enigmatic dials.

The later it gets, the better it is. (E5) ul.

BaB_inzerce_Warsaw.indd 1

12.08.15 20:49

Marszałkowska 21/25 (enter from Oleandrów)

Biała Expect highly individualized cocktails, a thoughtful menu and a glam, vamped up crowd every bit as beautiful as the place itself: set in a gloriously white inter-war villa, this is a place that oozes with sex appeal. In season, there aren’t many finer outdoor gardens. ul. Francuska 2, fb.com/ bialazjedziwypij

Charlie Arguably the best and boldest opening of the year, Charlie presents thrilling

Coctail Bar Max Can you trust a cocktail bar that can’t even spell the word? In this case, yes! Max looks bright, cheerful and fully loaded for the sun, and also comes with a smoking alcove in the back stuffed with whisky and cigars. The cocktails are the main affair though, and here they’re extravagant efforts that resemble a tropical jungle in miniature form. Very popular with types that aspire to become footballers’ wives, etc. (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, barmax.pl

VENTS

Wąski Dunaj 20, 00-256 Warsaw

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cocktails inside an interior that wouldn’t be amiss in Manhattan: there’s even a fountain! Being rich and pretty is almost a compulsory criteria. (E6) ul. Mokotowska 39

Column Bar Just the look of Column Bar sweeps you off your feet; there’s something breathlessly classy about it, like you’ve just entered Gatsby’s ballroom. You want to order a pyramid of champagne and dance on their piano. Behave, and order a cocktail instead. For a taste of the classics, the Column Bar is pretty peerless.

(D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44 (Hotel Bristol)

Kita Koguta The staff aren’t afraid to get imaginative, and that includes serving cocktails in smoking coconut husks. Not all the experiments go as planned: on our last visit, a basic Bloody Mary was turned into an alcoholic carrot flavored fizz. (E5) ul.

Krucza 6/14

Kiti Bar A raucous bar drawn up by the owners of the nearby Kita Koguta. Dominated by a tall Polynesian totem, this ray of sunshine gets noted for extravagant cocktails served by game staff in zany shirts. (D5) ul. Krucza 6/14

Lazy Dog While Lazy Dog isn’t exactly new, it does feel like it’s turned over a new leaf – what was a good cocktail bar, it seems, has grown to become a very good one.

Seeking inspiration from some of the world’s wackiest artworks, the cocktails aren’t just beautiful to look at, but damn good to drink... If there’s a highlight, that’s the ‘Fight Between A Tiger & A Buffalo’, a spicy, tropical creation complete warsawinsider.pl

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DRINK! Listings enveloped in a thick billowing mist. (D5) ul.

Krucza 16/22, lazy-dog.pl

Na Lato Once derided as a hipster haunt, the twits have moved on, replaced instead by an increasingly on-trend crowd of rich young things. The cocktails are without doubt up there with the best in Wa-wa and the basement club area has the added boon of a glassed-in smoking room – though with summer here, the outdoor garden is the place to head. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44, na-lato.com

Palmier Escapist in every respect, there’s a star quality here, a real sense of swank. The interiors are the stuff of Gatsby – tall palm fronds and marble finishes underneath ceilings that stretch forever – while the long, strip terrace is pure seasonal bliss: a place to chill, chat and pretend to be one of Warsaw’s top 1%. Well-balanced and impeccable on every level, cocktails here are a liquid journey into the heart of pleasure. (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12 Panorama Sky Bar The Marriott’s 40th floor Panorama has had a couple of incarnations: first, as a glitzy Dynasty throwback, and then, more recently, as something that could have passed for a business class airport lounge. Now it’s been reinvented once again, only this time successfully: find slick, vibrant interiors redolent of London matched up with modern cocktails and twinkling views. (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, panoramabar.pl

The Roots Cluttered with shiny props and pieces rescued from the early days of cocktail making, The Roots could pass for a Victorian era curiosity shop. Looking past the eccentricities that comprise the interior, it’s become famous on account of irresistible drinks mixed and muddled by dapper experts that aren’t so much barmen as they are craftsmen. (C2) ul.

Wierzbowa 11

Weles A swing of the door takes visitors plunging down a blacked-out stairwell and into a basement that emerges from the darkness like a decadent Tsarist relic: glinting chandeliers glimmer over deep

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leather sofas, their subtle light casting a glow over an immaculate clientele. Befitting the venue, the artisanal cocktails are a work of elaborate craftsmanship, and incorporate everything from elite liquors to strips of bacon and flower petals. (D5)

with the industry. But you want to know what the girls are like, yeah? Let the fact askmen.com voted it their favorite strip in the world speak for itself. (B3) Al.

ul. Nowogrodzka 11, welesbar.pl

craft beer

Woda Ognista Woda Ognista evokes the jazzy air of a Chicago, Prohibition era speakeasy with a seriously stylish interior that includes a colossal collection of vintage cocktail shakers that glint behind glass. The drinks themselves, rattled up by dapper gents in braces and flat caps, are split between house creations and reprised classics from a bygone era. Some are more successful than others, and it’s a credit to the staff that they’re willing to take comments on board and adapt their precious recipes to suit fussy tastes. (E5) ul. Wilcza 8, wodaognista.com

Zamieszanie Cuda Na Kiju have built on their continuing success by adding this spot in the glass block next to their tap pub. Here though it’s cocktails that are the draw.

Pre-bottled in a secret room downstairs, meaning none of the ad-libbed artistry of other cocktail bars, and tastes that are closer in line to 90s alcopop drinks than anything else. That doesn’t stop a young crowd from swamping the place come the weekend. (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 6/12 Zorza Slotted inside what was once Café 6/12, Zorza embellishes the venue’s ascetic PRL style with licks of art deco: it’s an unlikely marriage that manages to work.

Do your pecking, picking, sipping and supping on an outdoor terrace set-up that encourages mingling and interaction. (D4) ul. Żurawia 6/12, zorzabistro.pl

for gentlemen Playhouse Not here gorilla gangsters on the door or pushy girls doing the rounds (“buy me drinky drinky”). Instead, Playhouse models itself on the top class mega clubs such as Spearmint Rhino, and the result is a subterranean space removed from the sleaze and murk usually associated

Solidarności 82A, playhouse.pl

Artezan Pub Browar Artezan’s flagship pub is a compulsory visit for all beer aficionados.

The beer is the magnetic force with eight taps blasting out pacesetter tipples from this brewery’s portfolio. The Pacific is the Insider’s all-time favorite. (D4) ul. Moniuszki 1A

Chmielarnia A subterranean multi-tap found in the depths of the fishing institute. Artisan beers rule the roost here (there’s 15 taps and stacks more beer in the fridge), a point underlined by a glass coffin of mainstream macro lager. While the bar gets loud and rackety, sweaty and sticky, that’s balanced out by a rotating beer offer that’s moderately priced plus a friendly, earnest audience that’s all beer geeks and know-it-alls. (B5) ul. Twarda 42 (basement level), chmielarnia.waw.pl

Craft Beer Muranów Though still an area thick with beretwearing, dachshund-walking oldies, Muranów is fast catching up with the rest of Warsaw. Taking care of the craft beer angle is this newbie, a bi-level bar with warm tones and 16 taps of beery goodness. ul. Andersa 23, fb.com/craftbeermuranow

Cuda Na Kiju Where it all began. Summer catches Warsaw’s original tap bar at its best, with the courtyard of the former Communist Party HQ now home to an entirely different kind of party: on occasions find food trucks and film screenings, and all other times just a massive crowd getting sloshed on 15 types of tap beer. But even outside the sweaty months Cuda is worth the visit: drink inside a modern, glass cube that’s refreshing contemporary. (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, cudanakiju.pl

Drugie Dno To plug into the pounding heart of

DRINK! Listings Warsaw’s craft beer scene, look no further than Nowogrodzka. Joining the ranks of the street’s multi-tap bars is Drugie Dno, a three-level space that’s been themed to evoke the look of a disused power station.

Sporting rugged brickwork and a scuffed style, the industrialized look has been amped up to the max through the use of steel girders, vintage voltage meters and toilets disguised as elevator shafts. (D5) ul.

Nowogrodzka 4

Gorączka Złota Founded in 1996, Złota’s longevity is to be admired, even if the interiors aren’t.

Small, dark and a little pungent, the interiors are rendered out of little more than varnished wood and hundreds of beer coasters. But that’s the clue! The secret of their success is down to the beer. Stocking a range of regional and craft beer, this bar has an underlying honesty that makes it a success. (D5) ul.

Wilcza 29, goraczka-zlota.com.pl

Jabeerwocky Steeped in multinational drunken babble, the super sociable Jabbers is famed for its innovative beer selection and convivial atmosphere. Mark it down as an absolute must-visit, especially if you’re a fan of stout and cider. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 12, taproom.pl

Kufle i Kapsle All levels of drinkers are catered for in this raw-looking space, from those ready to pay nosebleed prices for beers with spaceships on the label, right the way down to novices taking their first baby steps in the world of craft booze. Interiors are balanced with the pre-war heritage of the place, and are thick with noise, clamor and the spell of spillage. Unisex toilets, meaning there’s usually one idiotka putting a spanner in the queue code. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 25, kufleikapsle.pl

Kufle i Kapsle Żoliborz While Nowogrodzka is the beating heart of the tap bar trend, not even the suburbs are safe from this flourishing movement. By expanding out to Żoliborz, Kufle i Kapsle have cornered a captive market. There’s just seven taps here, but they’re a magnificent seven – find a great representation of Polish craft draught, not to mention a satisfying selection of international bottles. The moderate

size works it in its favor, lending it a neighborly atmosphere which sees first-timers quickly converted into returning regulars. ul Popiełuszki 19/21, kufleikapsle.pl Maryensztadt Craft Beer It’s a mixed crowd of locals and tourists that gather in Maryensztadt, a large bar whose 12 taps showcase the highs (and occasional lows) produced by the brewery that gives this pub its name. Set across a series of cavernous chambers inside an attractive Old Town property, its not just beer buffs that it appeals to: sourcing their ingredients from smallscale farmsteads, the kitchen wing of Maryensztadt does a convincing job of representing the tastier side of regional Poland. (D1) ul. Szeroki Dunaj 11 Piw Paw We don’t like: the sweaty toilet, strange smells nor the scrum at the bar. We do like: the 24hr opening hours, humongous fridge and 50+ taps. Seen in the light it’s a little depressing, so visit at night when Parkingowa takes on the look of an endof-term street party. (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34 (enter from ul. Parkingowa), piwpaw.pl

Same Krafty Occupying two narrow, rugged rooms, Same Krafty have rescued Old Town from big beer brands peddling piss.

Offering artisan alternatives, this intimate bar has become a magnet for those looking to explore the more subversive side of Polish brewing. (D1) ul.

Nowomiejska 10, samekrafty.pl

live music 12on14 Jazz Club Warsaw has a rich tradition of jazz, so you have to sometimes wonder, just where the hell are all the jazz bars? In 12on14’s case, down a courtyard and through a side entrance. Dark, smart and sophisticated, here’s a place that’s fitted out with framed portraits of sax tooting masters as a well-stocked bar area decorated with quotes from jazz legends. Open from Tuesday till Saturday, evenings see local and international musicians take to the stage. (D6) ul.

Noakowskiego 16, 12on14club.com

Chwila Entered under a red, cabaret-style awning, Chwila is a reject factory space turned good. Furry cushions, patchwork quilts and student art vie for attention alongside iron girders and industrial leftovers inside what is becoming known as one of the top alternative music venues this side of the river. The toilet alone, papered with trillions of cool posters and magazine covers, is a reason to linger. (B3) ul. Ogrodowa 31/35

Hydrozagadka Set out in the wildlands of Praga, consider Hydrozagadka as the heart of unforced cool. Known for its alternative music scene, the low-ceiling and tight, crowded nature of it generate an electrifying atmosphere where the audience and band become one. Walking a fine line between industrial and straight out decrepit, the atmosphere is second to none: drinks flow, strangers meet and music smashes out: you can feel something special happening here. ul. 11 Listopada 22, hydrozagadka.waw.pl

vodka Bar Warszawa Thick with alcoholic fumes and the sound of drunken tantrums, Bar Warszawa excels in its role as a late night dive bar.

Split on two levels, upstairs is where most head to flop around a retro lounge interior filled with nostalgic decorations that tempt kleptomaniacs. The cut price shots and pints do their bit in facilitating slurred conversations with a variety of strangers.

Not surprisingly, evenings often extend beyond the advertised closing time of 4 a.m. (D2) ul. Miodowa 2, barwarszawa.pl Dom Wódki Those expecting Dom Wódki to be a standard mucky shot bar are in for a surprise. Sparkling with over 250 artisanal vodkas, find them incorporated into inspirational drinks mixed by Tomasz Małek, a world champion flair bartender.

(C2) ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl

Pijalnia Havoc reigns in Pijalnia, and watching all the tears and tiffs on a Friday night is something of a spectator sport. Pickles warsawinsider.pl

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DRINK! Listings and vodka are the essential order. many locations, fb.com/pijalnia.warszawa

wine bars Ale Wino!

At first you think you’re walking into a car park. And then, it hits you – a beautiful inner-city sanctum with wooden decking, a slanted sail shielding the sun, and bespoke, funky chairs from the esteemed Studio Rygalik. You want to dwell here for a bit longer than planned: and there’s no harm in doing so. (E5) ul. Mokotowska 48, alewino.pl

Bubbles Despite sounding like a 90s small town nightclub, Bubbles is in fact a worthy place of note: a small, warm venue with a slow food menu and a design that incorporates lots of upturned crates and dusty bottles. Champagne is the main draw here, with many labels that are exclusive to Poland. Some come with terrifying prices, but on the whole the price points are widely accessible: wine from zł. 10 and a flute of champers from zł. 29.

(D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, bubbles.com.pl

Dekant Wine Bar Set inside an attractive open space, the opening of Dekant is a further indication of Powiśle’s shift from hipster epicenter to upscale playground (Robert Lewandowski has been spotted here!). The list comprises over 400 wines from the most prestigious producers in the world, right the way down to tiny, little vineyards you’ve probably never heard of. If the sun is out, aim for a place on their back terrace. (E3) ul. Zajęcza 15, dekant.com.pl Dyletanci The wine list is fitting of the A-list, and aside from exceptional international choices, also includes interesting wines from the proprietor’s own label – a frankly superb Polish brand called Dom Bliskowice. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44, dyletanci.pl Enoteka It’s the wine bar New Town has been waiting for ever since… the old Enoteka closed. The eagerly awaited return brings with it a new location – right

100 Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2017

on the corner of New Town Square and a wine list from curated by importer Maciej Bombol. (D1) Rynek Nowego Miasta 13/15,

over 400 wines and you have an absolute winner. ul. Nowogrodzka 4, nowina.waw.pl

enotekapolska.pl

Pani Wina Tucked down an upcoming stretch of Wilcza, the interiors play-up to the pre-war heritage of the building with the elegantly demure decorations anchored around mustard-colored banquettes, olive green walls and immaculate parquet flooring: smart, soothing and even pretty sexy. In rhythm with the times, it’s the first wine bar in Warsaw where bushy beards, tatts and hip, casual fashion are the dominant sight. (E5) ul. Wilcza 11, fb.com/PaniWina

Hoża You’ll probably know Hoża as the home of steak. But what is meat without wine? complementing the Argentine-inspired cooking is a wine list particularly dense with reds. (D5) ul. Hoża 25a, hoza.warszawa.pl Kieliszki Na Hożej Already celebrated for their operation on Próżna, this latest branch continues in much the same vein: classy interiors, a prime location on one of Warsaw’s few surviving pre-war streets and a casual bistro vibe matched up against a glorious Italian influenced wine list. The concise food menu connects local Polish to classic French and adds an interesting modern twist. ul. Hoża 41, kieliszkinahozej.pl Mielżyński Wine Bar Robert Mielżyński, a Canadian-born oenologist, awakened Warsaw’s love affair with the grape when he launched Mielżyński in 2004, and it continues to serve as the accepted benchmark to which all wine bars aspire. Their cause is amply boosted by a fine selection of bites to accompany the superlative wine offer. Find it in a pared down warehouse that emanates casual city cool. (A1) ul.

Burakowska 5/7, mielzynski.pl

Mielzynski Wine Bar After three years in the pipeline Warsaw’s second outpost of Mielżyński is everything you’d expect: the concise menu is never too complex while the exciting wine choice presents over 500 labels. This vibrant warehouse-style space promises much. (G9) ul. Czerska 12, mielzynski.pl Nowina Though only opened towards in January, Nowina have thus far chalked up a bundle of five star reviews. Helping in the achievement of that has been a striking interior that catches the eye from across the street – restored pre-war tiling, glinting surfaces, a world map rendered from corks and an engaging reddish glow all do their bit to lend Nowina the kind of atmosphere that’s missing in most local wine bars. Add to that an exciting international menu and a selection of

Rusiko Wine Bar Designed to act as a casual extension of the neighboring Rusiko restaurant, this wine bar showcases Warsaw’s biggest selection of Georgian wine inside an interior that feels intimate, jazzy and highly atmospheric. Elaborate rugs, deep rouge in color, hang from tall sapphire walls, while impossibly high ceilings do much to generate a swirl of soft, muffled sound. A place of good mood and organic hospitality, it’s no surprise to learn that the bitey menu is an ample reflection of Rusiko’s award-winning reputation. (E5) Al. Ujazdowskie 22, fb.com/winebarrusiko

WinKolekcja The selection of New World wines is exceptional, though classicists are also catered for via an extensive choice of Spanish, French and Italian wines. Their highly recommended restaurant provides further reason to linger inside a design that has the routine look of a club class lounge. (E10) ul. Olkuska 7, winkolekcja.pl Winosfera Once a pre-war cinema, now a stunning wine bar / store with one of the most impressive collections in Poland: an expense account comes in handy. Equally notable is the ambitious fine dining menu of Jakub Adamczyk. (B3) ul. Chłodna 31 Żurawina In the world of wine it’s important the customer can connect to the staff: here, we felt like we were joining the SS. But both food and wine score highly, and they’ve earned a staunchly loyal following that includes high flying types and Paris Hilton wannabes that carry yappy dogs in their bag. (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34, zurawina.eu

DO! Loft37’s national expansion continues with a new boutique in Wrocław’s latest mall: Wroclavia!

SHOE WIN

Founded in 2011 by Joanna Trepka, a lawyer from a family long associated with the shoe industry, and Paulina Kalińska, a designer by trade, Loft37 is the first Polish brand to offer customized footwear. “The brand’s mission is to connect the tradition of Polish craftsmanship to current design and footwear trends,” say the owners. As such, each product is handmade using natural leather and materials, with the short production cycle ensuring clients are bang on-trend. It’s this approach that’s earned Loft37 a loyal core of fans as well as recognition from namemakers such as Twój Styl.

Loft37 ul. Mokotowska 52A & ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), loft37.eu

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DO! Calendar RUN

Independence Run 11 Nov, 11:11 @ Al. Jana Pawła II

Starting at 11:11, the 29th Independence Day Run follows a 10-kilometer route around north and central Warsaw.

EDITOR’S PICK Comic Con 24-26 Nov @ Ptak Warsaw Expo, Al. Katowicka 62

Warsaw’s second ever comic festival goes beyond merely comics. Attractions include a game zone, gaming alley, and a Lego world. Stars booked to appear include the original Baywatch babe Pamela Anderson, Holland Rodman from Teen Wolf, Devon Murray from Harry Potter and a host of stars from Game of Thrones!

Tickets from zł. 20-150 @ warsawcomiccon.pl

F E S T I VA L

Jazz Jamboree 2-5 Nov @ various locations

This year’s edition of the annual Jazz Jamboree has a number of jazz legends booked to appear, among them Bill Laswell, James Carter, David Murray and the Artur Majewski Band.

For further info, see: adamiakjazz.pl SOCIAL

Pub Quiz 3 Nov @ Legends, ul. E. Plater 25

Poland’s only true British pub attracts a varied bunch of expats and locals for their monthly English-language quiz – highly competitive and highly boozy!

For further info, see: fb.com/ Legends-BarRestaurant FILM

Sputnik Nad Wisłą 2-12 Nov @ Kino Luna / Elektronik & Iluzjon

Promoting Russian culture in Poland, the 11th Sputnik Film Festival aims to ‘overcome differ-

ences and debunk stereotypes dividing Poles and Russians’.

To meet this end, the festival will see over 60 films screened.

For further info, see: sputnikfestiwal.pl

5 Nov @ ul. Obozowa 60

Regarded as a ‘downtempo pioneer’ and famed for his complex basslines, British-born Bonobo – real name Simon Green – plays this cult hangout as part of a promotional tour for his 2017 album Migration.

Ticket details unavailable at press time

Ticket details unavailable at press time CONCERT

To register see: aktywnawarszawa. waw.pl

Hurts

FOOD

English synth-pop duo hit Poland as part of a wider tour to promote their September album Desire. “Overall we just wanted to make a big, powerful pop record,” says frontman Theo Huthcraft, “and that’s definitely the track we’re on.”

Wege Bazar 12 Nov @ Medyk, ul. Oczki 1A

With Warsaw recently declared by Happy Cow as the fastest growing vegan city in the world (really!), expect a packed crowd for the third edition of this vegan food festival.

For further info, see: fb.com/wegebazar269/ FOOD

Dumpling Festival 18 Nov @ PKiN, Pl. Defilad 1

From noon onwards visit the Palace of Culture to explore the thrilling world of dumplings.

Italian, Tibetan, Indian, Polish and Chinese versions will all be available to try, not to mention a comprehensive choice of other global foods.

21 Nov @ Torwar, ul. Łazienkowska 6

Tickets from zł. 120 @ ebilet.pl FILM

Jewish Film Festival 24-30 Nov @ Polin Museum & JCC Warsaw

Founded in 2003, the Warsaw Jewish Film Festival was created to reawaken Warsaw’s Jewish past.

The festival will culminate with the Camera of David awards.

For further info, see: wjff.pl CONCERT

Admission zł. 5

Hercules & Love Affair

CONCERT

25 Nov @ Smolna 38, ul. Smolna 38

CONCERT

Bonobo

and U2. Their latest album, Score, is comprised of lead scores from films such as Moon River, Chariots of Fire and Schindler’s List.

Tricky

Knowle West bad boy Tricky is celebrated for his dark sound and rasping lyrics. Formerly of Massive Attack, Tricky’s debut solo album, Maxinquaye, achieved global acclaim and a Mercury prize nomination.

Created by American DJ Andy Butler in 2004, Hercules & Love Affair have enjoyed global success with a string of hits that include the seminal track Blind.

Working within genres of house, techno, nu-disco and disco, the latest album, Omnion, ‘sparkles with faith and tolerance for our troubled times.’

CONCERT

MARKET

20 Nov @ Torwar, ul. Łazienkowska 6

27 Nov @ Babka, ul. Młocińska 5/7

20 Nov @ Niebo, ul. Nowy Świat 21

Tickets from zł. 89 @ eventim.pl

Tickets from zł. 40 @ biletomat.pl

FA M I LY

Disney on Ice 8-13 Nov @ Torwar, ul. Łazienkowska 6

Mickey Mouse is the Master of Ceremonies, and he’ll be introducing 50 Disney characters in a performance featuring ‘awardwinning skaters, energetic choreography and beautiful scenery’.

Tickets from zł. 75 @ ebilet.pl

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2Cellos

This best-selling Croatian cello duo have been widely hailed for their high energy interpretations of popular rock and pop songs, including covers of tracks by Nirvana, Guns’n’Roses, Coldplay

Och Bazar!

With over 100 exhibitors anticipated to appear, Och Bazar!

Allows visitors the chance to explore the burgeoning world of Polish fashion and interior design.

For further info, see: ochbazar.pl

DO! Calendar

Time for Chopin

Keyon Harrold

For info, see: timeforchopin.com

12 November, 8 p.m. @ Teatr Studio, Pl. Defilad 1

CLOCKWISE FROM RIGHT; MAGDA STAROWIEYSKA / MUZEUM POLIN; PRESS MATERIAL (2); PHOTOGRAPH BY BETSY NEWMAN

Running now for over a year, the Time for Chopin initiative presents daily concerts at 6 p.m. inside the Old Gallery of the Association of Polish Art Photographers (Pl. Zamkowy 8). The 50-minute recitals include the composer’s greatest mazurkas, polonaises, waltzes, preludes, etc.

Blood: Uniting and Dividing

This exhibition is the multi-threaded story of this unusual substance. What is blood? What is its role in culture, religion, social life and medicine? All these issues will be raised by the exhibition Blood. Uniting and Dividing at the POLIN Museum of the History of Polish Jews.

Ongoing till 29 January @ POLIN Museum, ul. Anielewicza 6 Shown above: Anish Kapoor, Blood Cinema, 2000, private collection, © Anish Kapoor, DACS 2017

Combining cutting, insightful lyrics and spoken word passages with evocative, often-heartbreaking musical arrangements to paint a portrait of a deeply divided nation, trumpeter Keyon Harrald draws on elements of jazz, classical, rock, blues, and hip hop to create something uniquely modern and unmistakably American.

Jacob Collier

This year’s edition of the BMW Jazz Club will present the talents of double Grammy winner Jacob Collier this December. The multi-instrumentalist, considered by many as a successor to Prince, has been developing under the guidance of Quincy Jones and will perform three concerts during his stay in Poland.

For info, see: eventim.pl

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DO! Education listings preschools American School of Warsaw American School of Warsaw provides a rich, meaningful and balanced educational experience through age-appropriate activities to students aged 3 to 5. For further information and/or to visit our school, contact:admissions@aswarsaw.org or 22 ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel.

22 702 85 00, aswarsaw.org 702

85 00.

The British Primary School of Wilanów Following the National Curriculum of England and Wales, this is the first School in Poland subject to the inspection of the UK Independent School Inspectorate. Pupils receive British and, upon request, Polish reports/ diplomas. The school follows a closed admissions policy and limits enrollment of one nationality to below 50% of

each class starting from Year 1. ul. Hlonda 12, bsww.pl

Science, Physical Education, Art, Music & Rhythmics, French and Polish classes. ul.

Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, canadian-school.pl

The British School Early Years Centre The British School provides EYFS classes from Pre-nursery (age 30 months) to Reception (5 years old). Children develop quickly and their Early Years practitioners aim to do all they can to help your child have the best possible start in life and become a lifelong learner. ul. Dąbrowskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646 7777 , thebritishschool.pl

The Canadian School of Warsaw Preschool Welcoming students from the ages of 2.5 to 6 years old, currently 45% of their admissions are international students. The dedicated, IB-trained teachers deliver an innovative program (PYP) in English designed for modern world needs. The program offers a combination of Literacy, Maths, Social Studies,

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Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations) Warsaw Montessori School Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have three green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in earlychildhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob.

692 099 134, warsawmontessori. edu.pl

International Trilingual School of Warsaw Established in 1994, the Trilingual School of Warsaw

offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fillimmersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/ saint-exupery.pl

The English Playhouse The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old. For more info or to arrange a tour call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email: jnowak@ theenglishplayhouse.com ul.

Pływiańska 14a, tel. 22 843 9370, tep.edu.pl

DO! Education listings Happy Montessori House The Happy Montessori House offers part-time and full-time places for children aged between 2 to 6 years, as well as toddler-focused activities (from 18 months to 3 years) centered around movement, sensorial stimulation, storytelling, singing and socializing.

Warsaw Montessori Pre-school, ul. Rumiana 14, tel. 22 423 50 75, mob. 697 060 504, hmh.com.pl

Maple Tree Montessori Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological

& healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). ul.

Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, mapletreemontessori.pl

Międzynarodowa Szkoła Podstawowa Argonaut This elementary school is open for children of all nationalities and backgrounds. It places a focus on learning English as well as additional languages, and has an attractive list of available extracurricular activities.ul. Radarowa 6, tel. 504 509 504, argonaut.edu.pl

Montessori Academy for International Children An English-speaking preschool (16 months to 6 years

of age) with two locations. The school’s policy is to comply with Montessori standards, using the Montessori Method in English. The school’s philosophy is based on the joy of learning, which comes from discovering and furthering the individual development of each child. ul. Królewicza Jakuba 36 (Wilanów), ul. Sadowa 4 (Konstancin), Open 8:00-16:45, tel. 502 315 022, montessoriacademy.eu

schools American School of Warsaw ASW is a premier collegepreparatory international school that offers a PK-12

curriculum, including the IB Diploma Program in Grades 11 and 12. Students are inspired and challenged every day by experienced and dedicated teachers, who provide enriching learning opportunities in a world class facility. For further information contact: admissions@ aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00. ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, aswarsaw.org

The British Primary School of Wilanów Following the National Curriculum of England and Wales, this is the first School in Poland subject to the inspection of the UK Independent School Inspector-

Celebrating

25 years of

British Education in Warsaw

www.thebritishschool.pl

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DO! Education listings ate. Pupils receive British and, upon request, Polish reports/ diplomas. The school follows a closed admissions policy and limits enrollment of one nationality to below 50% of each class starting from Year 1. ul. Hlonda 12, bsww.pl

The British School Premium international school established in 1992 by Nord Anglia Education. The curriculum is designed to provide the highest academic quality of education. They follow the English National Curriculum, adapted to the needs of their international student community: from Primary through to the Secondary Key Stages to the IGCSE examinations and a

well-established International Baccalaureate (IB) Diploma Program. ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, thebritishschool.pl

ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, warsawmontessori.edu.pl

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations) Warsaw Montessori School Guided by trained specialists, students will be responsible for managing their household, operating small businesses, caring for local flora and fauna as well as domesticated animals, taking charge of the younger children and much more. “Adolescence Program” activities, integrated with academic studies, help students discover their inner strength to meet life’s real challenges.

The English Primary The English Primary is designed specifically for children in the primary education ages, just as children experience in England but in an international community.

Pupils are taken through the key learning stages so that they can achieve to the best of their ability through a fun learning experience. The Core Curriculum subjects include English, Phonics, Science, Mathematics, French, PE and Swimming, Music, Personal,

106 Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2017

Social and Health Education. ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 784 037 808, tep.edu.pl

The Canadian School of Warsaw International Elementary and Middle School Located on two campuses in the Mokotów this is the only authorized IB School with PYP programs taught in English and Polish. French is taught as a third language. Offers a wide range of extra activities, a summer school, and employs a full time psychologist. Provision is made for additional Polish and English support.

International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create the

DO! Education listings perfect learning environment. ul. Bełska 7, tel. 692 411 573 / 885 420 044, secretary@canadianschool.pl or secretary.olimpijska@ canadian-school.pl

International Trilingual School of Warsaw Established in 1994, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and

pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fillimmersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel.

501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16,

tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/saint-exupery.pl

Monnett International School Located in Mokotów, the Monnett is the only school in Poland that implements the International Baccalaureate Program from kindergarten level all the way through to secondary school. The fullyqualified staff are committed

to delivering only the highest standards of education. ul.

Stępińska 13, tel. 22 852 06 08, maturamiedzynarodowa.pl

Warsaw Montessori School Focuses on the Montessori curriculum with an education based on the integration of conceptual learning and real-life experiences. ul.

Szwoleżerów 4, tel. 22 841 3908, warsawmontessori.edu.pl

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DO! Health & Beauty listings gyms Artis Wellness Club Found in Royal Wilanów, this state-of-the-art gym boasts the latest technological advances in personal fitness, as well as a massive program of courses that range from group cycling and yoga to Zumba and body combat. ul.

Klimczaka 1 (Royal Wilanów), artisclub.pl

Holmes Place Energy High standard equipment, personal training and group classes. Six month membership available for approx. zł.

200 per month, though prices are subject to change. Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (C.H. Arkadia), ul.

Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), holmesplace.pl

Holmes Place Premium Three ‘premium locations’, with the Hilton and Regent branches housing a 25-meter pool. Sauna and steam room facilities are available in all all three, as are a varied timetable of classes plus personal training. ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel), ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), holmesplace.pl

Little Gym Targeted at children, expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-tochild ratio, original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. ul. Bruzdowa 56, thelittlegym.pl

McFit A 2,000 sq/m studio that utilizes the latest technology as well as ‘cyber training’ programs. Open 24/7, with membership from zł. 89 per month. ul. Świętokrzyska 3 (corner of Nowy Świat), mcfit.com

Quantum Fitness A place of quiet, understated

luxury, equipment is state-ofthe-art and complemented by expert trainers at the peak of their game. This is the full 24-carat gym experience. ul. Piękna 15, quantumpiekna.pl

Ride Warsaw Group cycling classes overseen by a team of English-speaking instructors.

This is not a leisurely Sunday pedal, but a high energy workout with a banging soundtrack and constant interaction. ul. Karolkowa 30, ridewarsaw.com

RiverView Wellness Centre Top-class facilities and equipment, private instructors and small classes. The view from the highest pool in Europe offers a glorious panorama of the city and is almost worth the membership fee alone.

Annual prices begin from around zł. 4,000. ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental), riverview.com.pl

hair & beauty Hair a Porter A staunch favorite among the ex-pat crowd, Hair a Porter offer the ultimate hair experience utilizing talented staff and topquality products. ul.

Belwederska 23 (Regent, level -1), hair-a-porter.pl

Le Spa This little island of peace and beauty takes you light-years away from the bustle of Warsaw. ul. Mokotowska 55

spas & salons

ouch!

DEPILACJA WOSKIEM

Ouch!

Experts in waxing, Ouch! aim their offer at ‘busy women looking for express treatments with lasting effects who, at the same time, appreciate a sense of intimacy’. ul. Belwederska 32; ul.

Bonifraterska 8, ouch.pl

PARDON MY FRENCH

manicure pedicure

Pardon My French Manicure and pedicure treatments with high quality lacquers and an awareness of the lastest global trends: if you need an endorsement, Paul McCartney visited when he was in Poland! ul.

Belwederska 32; Bonifraterska 8; ul. Mokotowska 56, ul. Wilcza 3. pardonmyfrench.pl

The Pedicure Place A luxury pedi/manicure clinic with room for 10. All the latest OPI varnishes and over 200 colors guarantee you’ll find the latest in styling and nail care. ul. Pokorna 2, pedicureplace.pl

Quantum Clinic Using first class, pioneering methods and technology, the Quantum Clinic surpasses the norms that Warsaw has become used to. ul. Piękna 15, quantumpiekna.pl

sport

Sinnet Club An exclusive members sport club featuring full-size indoor tennis courts, two external courts, three squash courts, a 25 meter swimming pool plus spa and gym facilities. ul.

Gołkowska 2, sinnet.pl

Warsaw International Triathlon Club Serving the needs of the athletic community, the WITC is open to all interested in the disciplines of swimming, cycling and running. warsawtriclub.com

W Pionie An 11 meter climbing wall founded by two mountaineers.

Considered one of the most advanced facilities of its kind in the country, English-speaking instructors can be rustled up on request. ul. Nowowiejska 37B, wpionie.pl

swimming Holmes Place Premium All the ‘premier’ outposts of Holmes Place tout swimming pools, though most agree it is the one in the Hilton branch that’s the best. ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel), ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), holmesplace.pl

RiverView Wellness Centre Another members only pool, and this one is really worth the membership cost – it’s the highest pool in Europe. Stunning views of Warsaw make this a swim to remember. ul.

Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental), riverview.com.pl

Nail & Beauty Bar A top spot for a classic manicure or pedicure – they also do lots of complicated things with gels and other hi-tech nail discoveries. ul.

BGZ Arena / Velodrome Bring a cycling helmet and you too can take a spin around the velodrome in Pruszków.

Priced at approximately at zł. 40 per hour. ul. Andrzeja 1

Wodny Park When looking for a pool, most look no further: on-site find an Olympic swimming pool, recreational pool complete with artificial river, slides and tubes, a Russian ‘banya’ zone.

Mokotowska 26

(Pruszków), bgzarena.com

ul. Merliniego 4, wodnypark.com.pl

108 Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2017

DO! Shopping Listings accessories Bursztynek The largest amber jewelry store in Warsaw, though in addition to that visitors can also purchase unique amberrelated souvenirs as well as more classic gifts associated with Poland. Rynek Starego

and watches produced using the finest Baltic amber. Or for a unique gift, how about an amber chess set or an amber cigarette lighter? ul.

Piwna 12/14, ul. Piwna 26, ul. Świętojańska 11, worldofamber.pl

fashion

Miasta 4/6, bursztynek.co

Hard Rock Cafe No wardrobe is complete without the iconic Hard Rock t-shirt! Find the Warsawstamped version available here, along with other extras for the all American look. Złote Tarasy, hardrockcafe.pl

Schubert Rings, bracelets, necklaces

Moliera 2 Boutique Brands include: Alexandre Birman, Alexandre Vauthier, Anya Hindmarch, Aquazzura, Balmain, Beach Bunny, Buscemi, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Francesco Russo, Gianvito Rossi, Herve Leger, Isabel Marant, Jimmy Choo, Kenzo, Kotur, Maison Michel, Moncler, One Teaspoon, Simonetta Ravizza, Tod’s, Tory

Burch, Valentino, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon. ul.

Moliera 2, moliera2.com

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Brands include: Beach Bunny, Buscemi, Canada Goose, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Dsquared 2, Christian Louboutin, Fay, Gianvito Rossi, Hogan, Kenzo, Kotur, Moncler, Mr& Mrs Italy, One Teaspoon, Ralph Lauren, Simonetta Ravizza, Tom Ford, Tory Burch, Valentino, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon.

Childrenswear: Burberry Children, Dsquared2 Kids, Kenzo Kids, Moncler Kids, Ralph Lauren Kids, Tod’s Kids. Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, plactrzechkrzyzy.com

Viola Śpiechowicz Inspiring, unpretentious and highly creative, Viola Śpiechowicz reinvisions what it means to be feminine by giving classic styles a progressive edge – choose from limited pret a porter collection and exclusive haute couture creations. ul. Chopina 5B, violaspiechowicz.com

home

Porcelanowa Award-winning, contemporary Polish porcelain produced by cult, internationally recognized brands such as Aoomi and Fenek. ul. Kredytowa 2, porcelanowa.com

The Amber Heart of Warsaw

warsawinsider.pl

109

DO! Accomodation Listings 5-Star Hotels

mamaison.com

Mecure Warszawa Centrum

Novotel Warszawa Centrum

Marriott

ul. Złota 48/54, tel. 22 697 3999, mercure.com

ul. Marszałkowska 94/98, tel.

22 596 0000, novotel.com, accorhotels.com

Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 6306, warsawmarriott.com

Bellotto ul. Senatorska 13/15, tel. 22 829 6444, hotelbellotto.pl

Mercure Grand Warszawa Regent Warsaw Hotel ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, reservations@regentwarsaw.com, regent-warsaw.com

Bristol Hotel ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1000, hotelbristolwarsaw.pl

Sheraton ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6100, sheraton.pl

H15 Boutique

Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel

ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 553 8700, info@h15ab.com, h15ab.com

ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888, radissonblu.com/hotelwarsaw

ul. Krucza 28, tel. 22 583 2100, mercure.com

Polonia Palace Hotel Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. 22 318 2800, poloniapalace.com

Courtyard by Marriott Hotel (Airport)

Warsaw Plaza Hotel

ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 0100, warszawacourtyard.pl

ul. Łączyny 5, tel. 885 886 100, warsawplazahotel.pl

Hilton Warsaw ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555 / 800 44 11 482, hilton.com

Sofitel Warsaw Victoria

Indigo

ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8011, sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com

ul. Smolna 40, tel. 22 418 89 00, indigowarsaw.com

Westin

InterContinental

Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, westin.pl

ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, warsaw.intercontinental. com

4-star hotels

Mamaison Le Régina Hotel Warsaw ul. Kościelna 12, tel. 22 531 6000,

Radisson Blu Sobieski pl. Zawiszy 1, tel. 22 579 1000, sobieski.com.pl

w W a r s a www.city-tour.com.pl

Yellow Double-Decker Bus

Invites you to experience a panoramic tour of tourist attractions of the capital of Poland, Warsaw, in a relaxing and comfortable way.

Traveling over the course of approximately 1,5 hour, a double-decker bus will take you past many beautiful and interesting places of Warsaw, such as its interesting districts, palaces and churches, monuments and museums, parks and historical cemeteries, as well as the Jewish historical sites.

A GPS 12 language audio-guide, will give explanations and accompany you to make your ride a more adventurous, exciting and an unforgettable one.

Excellent Hop on Hop off and one trip service operates every day all year round.

5% DISCOUNT with this ad

Line approved by municipal authorities.

www.city-tour.com.pl

110 Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2017

+48 500 033 414

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Or maybe just refreshing the look of your flat?

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DO! Services Listings relocation companies Move One Relocations Also immigration assistance, fine art shipping, pet transport and consulting services. ul. Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 8160, moveonerelo.com

services

networking

Domestina Four-hour maid solutions ranging from zł. 129-142.

Offering full service, they’ll make your bed to match the standard of a five-star hotel, and clean every corner till your flat is spotless! Order and pay online via their Englishlanguage website. domestina.pl

InterNations Drawing professionals from home and abroad the mission of InterNations is to bring together ‘global minds’.

Check their web for news on their monthly meetings.

storage

Relo Planet International, domestic and office removals, corporate and individual relocations, fine art shipping, storage, insurance, as well as a full range of assistance services (immigration, etc.). ul. Batalinou

Więcej Miejsca Offers innovative, convenient, door-to-door storage & moving services. Order via their website or phone and the company’s driver will deliver sturdy plastic, tamper-proof bins for storing items such as clothes, books, documents, etc.

Platerówek 3, reloplanet.com

Tel. 733 002 014, wiecejmiejsca.pl

internations.org

International Women’s Group of Warsaw Unites expat women in Warsaw and offers cultural, educational and recreational activities. Meetings are held on the second and fourth Monday of the month. iwgwarsaw.com Professionals in Warsaw New to town? Got no friends?

There’s few better ways to give your social life a jump start than popping along to

one of the informal drinks mixers conducted by Professionals in Warsaw – all you have to do is buy your own drinks and don’t be a moron. fb.com/ProfessionalsInWarsaw

Toastmasters International Toastmasters is the international organization for improving public speaking and presentation skills. The local club meets every Wednesday at 19.00. toastmasters.org.pl

Warsaw Social Helping expats integrate with the locals, Warsaw Social has grown to become the biggest and most active events group in Warsaw: not just drinks, but also games nights, defense classes, quizzes, etc. warsawsocial.com

warsawinsider.pl

111

DO! Museums CHOPIN MUSEUM

Car Museum From Lech Wałesa’s Volvo to Gomułka’s ZIS limo, from German wartime armor to a pretty-in-pink Buick Skylark: incredible in its peculiarity, the random layout, oily smells and cobwebbed corners only add to the sense of treading somewhere special. ul. Warszawska 21 (Otrębusy), muzuem-motorzyacji.com.pl

Copernicus Science Centre Featuring hundreds of interactive exhibitions, it’s a place that allows young and old alike to blast objects into space, experience an earthquake or steer exploratory robots. ul.

Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, kopernik.org.pl

CSW Situated in a baroque-style castle the center hosts artists from all over the world.

The on-site bookshop is of particular interest for artists and intellectuals. ul. Jazdów 2, csw.art.pl

Dom Spotkań z Historią The History Meeting House wins points for small but frequently excellent exhibitions that cover topics such as ‘rebuilding Warsaw’ and

M U S E U M O F WA R S AW

‘Socialist Realist architecture.’

ul. Okólnik 1, chopin.museum

ul. Karowa 20, dsh.waw.pl

Ethnographic Museum Considerably revamped to meet the demands and attention-spans of the 21st century sightseer, the Ethnographic Museum is a visual pleasure that showcases colorful costumes, fabrics and ceramics from Poland and beyond. ul. Kredytowa 1,

The Heritage Interpretation Center This small venue tells the complex story of Old Town’s reconstruction: if the first section about Warsaw’s physical elimination is poignant, then the others do a fabulous job of sharing the optimism and alacrity that followed. ul.

Brzozowa 11-13, mhw.pl

ethnomuseum.pl

Fotoplastikon Thought to date from 1905, Warsaw’s Fotoplastikon generates 3D perspectives from a set of 2D images: visitors peer through an eyepiece and are taken on a trip around the world while music from days yore parps away in the background. Al. Jerozolimskie 51, fotoplastikonwarszawski.pl

Fryderyk Chopin Museum The 18th century Ostrogski Palace is the perfect foil for the ultra-modern content of this multi-sensory space. The personal items are enchanting, but the big victory here is the museum’s ability to suck visitors right back into the times of Chopin through the use of interactive sights and sounds.

112 Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2017

Invisible Exhibition Head to the Invisible Exhibition to learn first-hand the challenges faced by the blind.

This includes everything from crossing the road to ordering a drink in a bar. Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, niewidzialna.pl

Jewish Historical Institute Officially opened in 1947 the Jewish Historical Institute was created to serve as an archive of Jewish culture in Warsaw. It contains artwork, historical artifacts and important documents from the city’s rich Jewish past. ul.

spring of 1940. Beyond its quite staggering architectural merit, the museum has done a stunning job of collecting and presenting artifacts relating to the slaughter. ul. Jeziorańskiego 4, muzeumkatynskie.pl

Marie Skłodowska-Curie Musuem Reopened after a significant re-haul, this museum celebrates the groundbreaking scientist that discovered polonium. The Curie-osities include lab equipment, her trademark black dress and even her nail file. ul. Freta 16, en.muzeum-msc.pl

Museum of Communist Life Lovingly assembled by its young owner, the museum is split into a few different sections: one devoted to state and subversive literature, and another that recreates an empty store typical of the times. Our highlight, though, is the recreation of a commie-era apartment. ul.

Tłomackie 3/5, jhi.pl

Glucha (opposite Soho Factory), adventurewarsaw.com

Katyń Museum This museum commemorates the murder of 21,000 Polish officers by the Soviets in the

Museum of Praga The Praga Museum tells the story of the area with such charm and simplicity that it

DO! Museums WA R S AW R I S I N G M U S E U M

manages to leave an unlikely impression that’s as punchy as that of the big institutions.

Star billing goes to a restored Jewish prayer room and the Flying Carpet: an exhibit festooned with various trinkets and treasures once available for purchase from local pavement traders. ul. Targowa 50/52, muzeumwarszawy.pl

Museum of Warsaw Over 8,000 objects detail the story of Warsaw, and these include peculiar souvenirs, scale models, old postcards and recovered works of art.

Cohesive and comprehensive yet never too overwhelming, the trail climaxes with vertiginous views of the Rynek below. Unmissable.

ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org

Palmiry National Memorial Museum An excellent multimedia exhibition set next to a cemetery holding the graves of 1,700 Poles executed in the first years of Nazi occupation.

The museum tells their forgotten story as well as that of the siege and subsequent occupation of Warsaw. Palmiry, palmiry.mhw.pl

each covers a different stage of local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day. Highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec synagogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical inter-war Jewish Warsaw street. Named the European Museum of the Year in 2016. ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl

The Royal Castle in Warsaw Highlights include the lavishly restored 18th century royal apartments with 22 paintings

by Canaletto, the Senators’ Chamber in which the Constitution of the Third of May was signed, the biggest collection of oriental rugs in Europe and two remarkable Rembrandt paintings. Pl. Zamkowy 4,

National Museum Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars. Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.

Pawiak What was once a Tsarist prison assumed a doubly sinister function under the Nazis. Some 100,000 Polish political prisoners were held here, 37,000 of which were executed on-site. Split in two sections, cells are found on one side, while on the other the full story of the invasion and occupation. ul. Dzielna

art.pl

24/26

4/6, bursztynek.co

The Neon Museum Filled with salvaged signage,

Polin Composed of eight galleries,

Warsaw Rising Museum Cope with the crowds to

Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42, muzeumwarszawy.pl

this museum houses several dozen neons that once lit up the capital. The emphasis is firmly on the PRL era, a time when the nation’s best graphic designers were nutty for neon.

K AT Y Ń M U S E U M

zamek-krolewski.pl

discover the definitive story of the 1944 Uprising. Exhibits range from a full-size replica of a Liberator plane, to a sewer beneath the cinema screen and a slice of bread preserved from 1944. And don’t miss the ‘City of Ruins’, a five minute 3D film which takes you on an aerial journey over devastated Warsaw. ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl Wola Museum What was once a dreary old place has been rebooted as a smart community-minded museum and one of the most forward-thinking institutions in the capital. Bringing the wider area of Wola alive, find engaging content that’s creatively presented: posters, family memorabilia and various media relating to the area. ul.

Srebrna 12, mhw.pl

The Warsaw Amber Museum Part of Bursztynek, a dedicated amber shop, has been turned into a curious museum detailing the history of amber. Rynek Starego Miasta

Zachęta National Art Gallery Regarded as one of Poland’s most prestigious galleries, the Zachęta has a busy program of temporary exhibitions that frequently showcase some of the biggest names in domestic and international contemporary art. Pl. Małachowskiego 3, zacheta.art.pl warsawinsider.pl

113

Warsaw Guide

NOVEMBERFLASH POINTS! As far as buzzes go, they don’t get much bigger than a rubber bullet pinging past your ear.

Granted, the last couple of Independence Day parades have passed without any major rioting, but let’s not kid anyone: the annual November 11th marches have a habit of attracting excited, young ‘patriots’ and baton happy coppers – if ugly mob mentalities float your boat, then this is the day for you.

Fancy a day out with Pamela Anderson?

Or perhaps an afternoon with grown men dressed like elves and Stormtroopers? After a successful debut over summer, Comic Con returns this November for its second edition.

Featuring a costume competition, Europe’s largest collection of Warhammer figures and a medley of celebrity names, it’s already well on its way to becoming one of Warsaw’s more impressive events.

I N D E P E N D E N C E DAY PA R A D E

PL. DEFILAD: MSN RENDERING OF FUTURE SITE

Ranked Europe’s second largest urban square, rather than being a source of local pride Pl. Defilad has been allowed to become a national embarasment. Little more than a concrete expanse covered in cars, it’s just about the biggest waste of space in this chunk of Europe.

But that stands to change, and at the start of November the city will reveal five finalists in its competition to find a fitting design for the future. The plans will be on show from the 6th onwards in the Kruczkowski Hall on the 4th floor of the Palace of Culture.

Cheap Asian food doesn’t mean bad Asian food – after years of being taken for a ride, budget diners have been treated to an explosion of low-cost eateries that tick the right boxes.

Inspired by the trend for exotic street food tastes, the last few months have seen numerous successes: Vegan Ramen Shop in Saska, Ban Bao in Wola, Bao Bao in Bielany... The list goes on and it will get longer.

In the shape of Locale and La Fromagerie, the Cosmopolitan Tower has already chewed up and spat out two decent venues. Now, we have a new volunteer ready to give this address a go.

Run by Tomek Roehr – the creative force behind the acclaimed cocktail den Bar Wieczorny – Cosmo Bar is set to be the talk of the town come November. Intriguingly, the management promise ‘zero waste, sustainability and bartenders for the planet...’

114 Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2017

Warsaw Guide

THE ESSENTIALS...

Cut through the chaff and time manage your visit as effectively as possible.

COMMUNISM

A full tour of Stalin’s Palace of Culture is a must: the basements are wild and the viewing terrace unimpeachable. Check the more ambient side to Communism in the Neon Museum and then visit The Museum of Life Under Communism: it’s tiny, but humorous, eccentric and highly informative. While you’re there, squeeze into a knackered militia wagon and take one of their commie-themed tours. Equally weird, check out a former nuclear bunker by visiting the once top secret Obiekt Alfa (obiektalfa.pl).

MODERN WARSAW

MARIE CURIE MUSEUM

THE OLD…

The Old Town, raised from the rubble after WWII, is symbolic of this ‘phoenix city’, and fully deserving of its UNESCO listed status. In the square, the Museum of Warsaw is a great primer to the city, while the Royal Castle is a maze of fancy chambers and important paintings by the likes of Rembrandt and Canaletto. To soak in the extravagances of Poland’s imperial years, then Łazienki Park is essential, as is a visit to the Wilanów Palace: frequently termed as being ‘the Polish Versailles’, the gardens have a forlorn beauty about them come November.

WWII

Memories of WWII still hang heavy.

Learn about the 1944 Warsaw Uprising at The Rising Museum: it’s deservedly

116 Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2017

rated as among the most important cultural institutions in the country.

The Old Town’s ‘Heritage Centre’ documents the destruction of the city, while three separate museums, Pawiak, Szucha and Katyń, cover equally somber moments in Poland’s dark history.

JEWISH WARSAW

Though largely flattened, the former Jewish Ghetto contains numerous memorials, among them the Umschlagplatz installation that commemorates the deportations to Treblinka. The one synagogue that survived (Twarda 6) is the center of local Jewish life, while the innovative Polin covers all aspects of this nation’s complex and often fraught Jewish history.

Wonder amid romping kids and whirring machines in the Copernicus Science Centre, and after take in the glorious dusk views on the rooftop garden of the University Library.

Across the river, the state-of-the-art National Stadium conducts regular tours, while Dom Kereta – dubbed the world’s narrowest house – occasionally hold open days (fb.com/domkereta).

ART

Serious art lovers flock to the National Museum for its determined presentation of art through the ages. The Zachęta, the Modern Art Museum and CSW are more alternative with captivating exhibitions that thrill non-conformists. That said, some of the city’s best art is found on its walls: Praga and Muranów are particularly known for their giant wall murals.

PEOPLE

Chopin, the city’s favorite son, looms large across Warsaw: the museum dedicated to his memory amazes by the breadth of its scope. Now reopened following a thorough refit, the Marie Curie Museum in New Town does a splendid job of remembering the world’s most famous female science boffin.

6

1 4 7

3 8 5

2

Stadion Narodowy

Żaryna

Kulskiego

Chodk iewicza

Biały K amień

8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Insider Finds

TOMB RAIDER

Ancient treasures and spooky finds wind their way to Warsaw...

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM IN WARSAW

Imagine it: shining a torch around a dark, undisturbed chamber to discover row after row of bodies wrapped in decaying textiles and posed in a seated position. Sounds horrifying, doesn’t it, like Indiana Jones crossed with a scene from Se7en. Thrilling, eerie and macabre, this was precisely the sight that met a team of Polish and Peruvian archeologists in June, 2013. Ploughing onwards, they discovered more: a total of 63 bodies – most of them women – as well as over a thousand artifacts. Gold, jewelry, ceramics, ritual axes and... evidence of human sacrifices. What they had found was a 1,200 royal mausoleum belonging to Peru’s ancient Wari civilization. Now, or at least from November 30th, the fruits of their labor will be on show at the National Ethnographic Museum in Warsaw.

National Ethnographic Museum in Warsaw ul. Kredytowa 1

120 Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2017