Warsaw Insider October 2017#254

Warsaw The Capital’s Original City Magazine Since 1996

• Inside Hala Gwardii • Autumn Essentials • Poland’s Most Haunted • Cemetery Secrets • Travel: Wrocław

OCTOBER 2017

254 10/2017

INDEKS 334901 ISSN:1643-1723

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ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER ALEXANDRE BIRMAN ANYA HINDMARCH AQUAZZURA BALMAIN BUSCEMI CASADEI CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN ELIE SAAB FRANCESCO RUSSO GIANVITO ROSSI HERVE LEGER ISABEL MARANT KENZO KOTUR LORO PIANA MAISON MICHEL MANOLO BLAHNIK ONETEASPOON SELF – PORTRAIT TOD’S TORY BURCH VICTORIA BECKHAM YVES SALOMON

tel.: 228277099, www.Moliera2.com

editorial INFRONT

Editor-in-chief Alex Webber

6 Take a Number 8 News 10 Architecture

insider@warsawinsider.pl Art Director Kevin Demaria insider@warsawinsider.pl

News 15 Interview: Daniel Ciesielski

Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com Contributors: Stuart Dowell Maria Mileńko Michał Miszkurka Ed Wight

FEATURES

20 Haunted Poland 22 Cemeteries 24 Travel: Wrocław

Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com

PARTNER SPOTLIGHT

EAT!

33 Czarna Woda 34 India Express 36 Bazar Kocha 38 Restaurant

Interior Design 40 Hala Gwardii

Business Development Manager A. Julita Pryzmont jpryzmont@valkea.com

T

here is no such thing as an ordinary Autumn – at least not in Warsaw. The product of an extraordinary color palette, its a time of cascading caramel colors and delicious pink sunsets.

Even the glum days, the days of soupy mists and damp, soggy streets, have a monochrome beauty that feels just right. Melancholic in both spirit and nature it’s apt, therefore, that this month we focus our attention on the cemeteries of Warsaw and the ghosts of Poland. Away from the creepy stuff, we’ve czech-ed what’s brewing on the city’s growing Czech pub scene, fitted in a fleeting trip to Wrocław and taken a snoop around Hala Gwardii – Warsaw will not see a bigger food story this year! As ever, hope you enjoy it and see ya’ next month...

DRINK!

73 Rusiko Wine Bar 74 Czech Beer Scene 76 Bistro Spatif

DO!

91 Viola Śpiechowicz 92 Autumn Roundup 94 Calendar 106 Guide: Flash

Points 108 Guide: Essentials 110 Map 112 Insider Finds

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ey Account Manager K Agata Sicińska asicinska@valkea.com ey Account Manager K Joanna Łysik jlysik@valkea.com Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com Subscription 12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland.

Orders can be placed through: insider@warsawinsider.pl Printed by Zakład Poligraficzny TECHGRAF Tel. (17) 225-28-69

Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

on the cover Fitting with the Halloween theme, our artist has gone for a spooky King Zygmunt III under a blood red moon...

(Illustration by Michał Miszkurka)

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2017

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All information ©2017 Warsaw Insider.

PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT

29 The latest marketplace news from the Warsaw Insider’s friends and advertisers

OCTOBER 2017

CASADEI CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN MEN FAY GIANVITO ROSSI MEN KENZO MONCLER ONE TEASPOON RALPH LAUREN TOD’S TORY BURCH VALENTINO VICTORIA BECKHAM BURBERRY CHILDREN DSQUARED2 KIDS KENZO KIDS MONCLER KIDS

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 tel.: +48 226221416, www.PlacTrzechKrzyzy.com

by Wilamowski W W W. C H L O D N A 1 5 . P L R E Z E R WA C J E @ C H L O D N A 1 5 . P L TEL. 730 737 677

C H Ł O D N A 1 5 B Y W I L A M OW S K I T H E A U T H E N T I C TA S T E O F F R A N C E I N T H E C E N T E R O F WA R S AW

number take a

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Cities

Two Polish cities have been named on the Telegraph’s shortlist of ῾22 European cities you’d never thought to visit (but really should).’ Wrocław, ῾packed with handsome buildings and cultural treats’, was listed alongside Gdańsk, which was credited for its ῾astounding mix of medieval, Renaissance and Gothic architecture.’ Other cities to make the cut included Bergamo in Italy, Sion in Switzerland and Braga in Portugal.

4th A survey of 28 European capital cities has ranked Warsaw 4th in terms of the availability of shared transport. Conducted by ShopAlike, the study examined data such as the number of bikes, cars and scooters available for rent, as well the cost of renting such vehicles. Paris topped the poll, with Brussels and Berlin also finishing above the Polish capital. The findings, however, included numerous surprises: for instance, it was revealed that more people rent bikes in Warsaw than they do in Copenhagen or Amsterdam.

The city also fared well on cost, with statistics showing that bike rental here is four times cheaper than Paris, and ten times less than Berlin. Furthermore, the accrued figures show that Warsaw has approximately 900 cars registered under various car share schemes, and that the city is one of only nine EU capitals currently offering a scooter sharing service.

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Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2017

2.5 Meters

A green-fingered gardener had the shock of his life in September when he discovered a two and a half meter tiger python lurking in the undergrowth of his garden in Włochy. “All I wanted to do,” exclaimed the bewildered horticulturist, “was mow the grass.” The snake – thought to have escaped from a nearby terrarium – was eventually caught by a specially trained eco-patrol and is currently recovering from his ordeal at Warsaw Zoo.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: KEVIN DEMARIA, SHUTTERSTOCK (2)

In Europe!

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News Briefs BARKING MAD With this year’s edition themed

around royalty, Kraków’s 23rd sausage dog parade took on a more regal air than usual. Fighting off competition from hundreds of other hopefuls, it was Bobi – a 17-month-old, locallyraised dachshund – that eventually won the coveted crown after demonstrating a range of stately qualities such as a dignified walk and a noble temperament. Once banned by the communists (who suspected the march was a dig at the party’s own Mayday parades), the Marsz Jamników has been an annual occurrence on the city’s calendar since 1994.

KATE EXPECTATIONS

Warsaw found itself inadvertently thrust into the limelight following speculation that Prince William and Kate Middleton’s forthcoming baby was conceived during a recent royal visit to the Polish capital.

The Sun, Britain’s best-selling tabloid, celebrated the news with a leering headline announcing ‘The Warsaw Act’. The article continued by noting that Kate had avoided all but token sips of alcohol throughout the trip, a move that was “in line with medical advice for women hoping to conceive.”

Polish brand Reserved have signaled their intent to conquer the world with the opening of a mega store on London’s Oxford Street. According to initial reports, the high street fashion giant has sunk GBP 50 million into their UK project, even going so far as to recruit Kate Moss to front their campaign. Founded in the Tri-City, the label already boasts over 450 stores spread across 18 countries.

Their latest gambit appears the most ambitious to date and stands to make or break Reserved as a global brand.

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Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2017

SHUTTERSTOCK

In Vogue?

CROSSING A GREAT DIVIDE

Following months of deliberation, City Hall have decided on a winning design for a new bicycle and pedestrian bridge. Set to stretch from ul. Karowa to ul. Okrzei in Praga, the 400-meter crossing will fall within a budget of zł. 30 million and is slated for completion in 2019.

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THE WINNER The work of Schuessler-Plan Inżynierzy, the winning design was credited by City Hall’s adjudication panel for blending in with nearby surroundings whilst also offering a reserved but elegant form. “While maintaining an original and unique look,” read the statement, “the designers have decided against competing with the other structures in the vicinity. Their work has been characterized by high quality architecture and attention to detail. Further, when compared to the other entries in the competition, this design also provides the greatest hope when it comes to the effective and speedy construction of a bridge.” >>>

PRESS MATERIAL

Architecture News

A partnership inside the kitchen and out, Anna Klajmon and Mateusz Czekierda have created Bistro Z out of a shared love and passion for cooking and the kitchen.

Our hospitality is sincere and you can see that in our dishes: through their aroma, design and taste. Always presented in an unconventional yet simple manner, we aim to combine the flavors of old and new cuisines.

The menu often refers to our Silesian roots, though we’ll also seduce you with French and Italian tastes – occasionally, we’ll even go further afield.

We’re also proud of our selection of our wine pairings, craft beers and inventive cocktails. We also serve natural wine and local beer in a cool, intimate atmosphere.

U L . Z Ą B KO W S K A 1 2 , T E L . 7 9 4 2 7 4 5 7 6

Architecture News

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For more on this story, visit warsawinsider.pl

Built using cortenium steel and wood, the winning entry looks aesthetically sleek yet also stylishly modest. “With the panorama of the Old Town behind it,” explained one of the designers, “we didn’t want to dominate the landscape with this project.” In all, 40 designs were submitted, including six from abroad, with the proposals judged on the attractiveness of their form and function, the quality and originality of the necessary technical solutions, and the ultimate financial cost. During a press conference held in September, City Hall also announced the second and third placed bids as well as awarding a further four projects with honorary mentions and distinctions.

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Interview

importance when photographing buildings?

Yes, I’m an Architecture & Urban Planning graduate.

Photographing architecture came about partly through my education and partly through my long-standing fascination with landscape photography. My perception of architecture, and in fact the whole city, changed a lot on the completion of my studies, and this new outlook has definitely had a great impact on my photography. However, I don’t think that having expertise in this field is crucial when photographing architecture.

Photography is more about form, light, and composition: it’s often abstract and not all that related to the structure of a building.

Warsaw In View

For much of his professional life architectural photographer Daniel Ciesielski has dedicated his days and nights to recording the changes to Warsaw’s urban landscape...

What skills are essential when photographing architecture?

First of all, you’ve got to be physically fit! More seriously, I think that, like all visual arts, you have to really be able to feel the harmony and balance of the composition.

Do you have any background in architecture, and is having a background in architecture of

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Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2017

From an architectural perspective, what are your thoughts on Warsaw?

Each city is a living organism that changes with its inhabitants – that process of change is best reflected by a city’s architecture. Right now we have a situation where the city is evolving in front of our eyes, and at such a rapid pace that – in my opinion – things haven’t always gone to plan. Of course, there is no such thing as the perfect city because there’s no such thing as perfect people: city’s are always going to be inherently imperfect, though it’s these defects that fascinate and inspire me. >>>

Interview rush hour – aside from the warm light you get at that time of day, I love the contrast you get between the rush of the city and the steadiness and peace that’s offered by a building.

What do you look for when trying to capture a building?

You have to think about its context and how it fits into the landscape. For me, it’s important that people looking at my images feel the building’s wider connection to the city. Sometimes a structure’s connection to the urban tissue of the city is harmonious and perfectly balanced. Other times there are either deliberate or accidental contrasts.

As a photographer, it then becomes my decision whether to highlight or hide such characteristics.

Do you have any favorite styles that you enjoy photographing?

I like glass facades or buildings that feature lots of glass detail. Fortunately, Warsaw has many such buildings and more are on the way. From a photographic point of

Top: CEDET, a work in progress; a personal project inspired by Warsaw’s developing skyline, Daniel is currently working on a 2018 calendar that documents the changing face of the city.

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What’s your favorite piece of equipment?

My tripod. I often photograph for periods of long exposure so a tripod is vital. I enjoy this style: I like my photographs to feature sharp, stationary objects juxtaposed against a busy, urban backdrop.

What are you working on right now?

The photographic documentation of the reconstruction and extension of the CEDET Department Store (formerly SMYK).

As an icon of post-war, modernist Warsaw, it’s an interesting object from both a historical and architectural perspective.

Shooting it I’ve tried to catch not just the changes that have occurred to the urban tissue, but also the complex process of the work itself.

When photographing buildings, what’s ‘the perfect moment’?

I love taking pictures at dawn and dusk. I think most photographers appreciate the warm colors of the so-called ‘golden hour’. In addition, I like taking photos during the

How would you define your work?

Frank Lloyd Wright once said that ‘space is the breath of art’. I use that as my professional motto: my dream is for people to notice the element of art in the urban spaces that I present. >>>

view, glass is extremely photogenic and opens up a whole range of creative possibilities.

Interview

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Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2017

For more on the photographer and his work, visit: danielciesielski.com

Clockwise from above: Q22 prior to its opening; panorama of Al. Jerozolimskie; Rondo 1; CBF Nowy Ĺšwiat 2.0; Cosmopolitan Tower; entrance to Polin, Museum of the History of Polish Jews.

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HALLOWEEN HAUNTED POLAND

PARANORMAL Activity

With the Halloween season creeping upon us, the Insider calls on its resident ghost hunter to deliver his definitive verdict on Poland’s most haunted... illustration by maria mileńko

KRAKÓW’S AMITYVILLE Deciphering fact from legend is impossible: some say the half-finished house at the start of ul. Kosocicka is built on a cemetery (yep, heard that one before); others, that a family were once axed to death here. Found on the edge of the city’s limits, this empty shell has a sinister energy that attracts practitioners of the black arts, teenage thrill seekers, and, on the Insider’s visit, a skeletal junkie moving wraith-like through the corridors.

OWIŃSKA ASYLUM The Insider’s ghost expert reported this from a recent visit: “a pale face peering from a window on an inaccessible floor; weird, unsettling noises; and sensations of deep sadness – the most terrifying experience of my life!” Locals go one further, claiming that this former asylum hits peak horror on November 11th – that’s the date the Nazis packed the last patients into vans and took them screaming to their deaths. Located close to Poznań, this red brick complex of derelict Neo-Gothic buildings is without fail Poland’s biggest scare.

KSIĄŻ CASTLE To some, it’s ‘the Pearl of Silesia’. To others, it’s a paranormal hot spot. Perched above the dense, dark forests of Lower Silesia, this castle comes steeped in legend: a possessed jester, executed thieves and wailing aristocrats are said to stalk the corridors, as is the ghost of Daisy, an English princess doomed to spend the rest eternity searching for her pearl necklace. As if that weren’t enough, mysterious Nazi tunnels are found running underground. Viewed under a crescent moon, few places feel so mysterious and menacing – their nighttime ghost tours come highly recommended!

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ZOFIÓWKA HOSPITAL Bad things happen at Zofiówka. Buried in the woodland around Otwock, the story of this one-time Jewish psychiatric hospital involves things such as experimental electroshock therapy, Nazi executions, hanging nuns and moving pictures. Abandoned since the 90s, its creepy life took a further twist in 2015 when internet sleuths worked out that a video that some had dubbed to be ‘the scariest to ever be published on YouTube’ was filmed here. Don’t believe us? Google 11B-X-1371 and say you’re not disturbed (Ed Note: an anonymous individual has since come forward claiming the vid to be part of an arts project – some, though, remain unconvinced).

CZOCHA CASTLE Nestled close to the Czech border, this 14th century castle doubles as a College of Wizardry! It’s also (in)famous on account of its numerous hauntings: hidden treasure, trapdoors, distant footsteps and screams from the dungeon – Czocha has the lot. Most of all though, it’s noted for its‘Well of Unfaithful Wives’: you figure it out. Seen looming from an autumn fog, you understand why National Geographic once named it as one of the seven wonders of Poland.

MORSKIE OKO Wouldn’t you know it, the tamest fright of all is the one that’s the closest. Despite it’s reputation as Warsaw’s most haunted house, the villa at Morskie Oko 5 has had a full refurbishment that rather negates its notoriety. Where once this mansion was derelict, empty and open to explore, today it’s been revamped and placed on the market for a cool zł. 2.5 mill. Aside from a quite enviable address that was once home to pre-war Warsaw’s ‘King of Furs’, the price includes a balcony supposedly haunted by Hanka, a teenage girl shot by a German sniper in 1944. She’s said to fleetingly appear pining for her insurgent lover.

RESZEL CASTLE Now thriving as a rugged hotel and experimental gallery space, 14th century Reszel Castle’s ghoulish past has featured on none other than Ghost Hunters International. Their freaky encounters weren’t just limited to Barbara Zdunk – the last European to be grilled for witchcraft – but also a recently deceased barfly who likes to keep an eye on his favorite stool. Neither are you far away from Hitler’s Wolf’s Lair hideout: check into room No. 7 of the onsite hotel (itself a former guard barracks) for a possible rendezvous with a ghostly female spy...

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HALLOWEEN CEMETERIES

UNTIL DEATH Do Us Part

As All Saints’ Day nears, Warsaw’s cemeteries take on a special prominence in the collective local conscience BY STUART DOWELL

Though culminating on November 1st, just outside this magazine’s lifespan, the days preceding All Saints’ Day see local graveyards blanketed in an eerie reddish glow as tens of thousands of locals descend to leave small votive lanterns at the tombs of their loved ones. Deeply spiritual, even outsiders recognize this solemn celebration as something rather special. This year, don’t let it pass you by – instead, see up close the haunting magic of the cemeteries of Warsaw...

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The Eye Catcher

Graveside Nibbles

Powązki Military Cemetery

Most Curious

Inside tip! The two protestant cemeteries accessed from ul. Młynarska offer visitors breath-taking neo-Gothic mausoleums and graves. The Evangelist-Augsburg and Evangelist-Reformed cemeteries are the resting places for many wealthy industrialists and financiers, as well as rich assimilated Jews. Highlights include the Kronenberg family mausoleum and the grave of chocolate entrepreneur Emil Wedel.

Originally an Orthodox cemetery for Tsarist soldiers, it is now the resting place for a whole pantheon of Polish military heroes. The cemetery features a special area for those murdered by the security services in 1945-56, a memorial for the victims of the Katyń massacre of 1940 and a section devoted to the Smolensk plane crash tragedy of 2010. Kazimierz Górksi, the manager of Poland’s worldbeating national football team in the 1970s, rests here in his family’s plot.

Warsaw Insurgents’ Cemetery

Situated in Wola, the largest war cemetery in Poland features 177 mass graves containing the remains of 40,000 soldiers and civilians who died during the fighting in Warsaw in 1944. The total number of souls is based on careful calculations made after the war of the weight in ashes of a dead body as many of the victims were gathered and burned in huge piles by special squads organized by the Germans.

Change of Scene

To see where ordinary folk carry out their grave-side duties, visit the communal cemetery in Służew on ul.

Wałbrzyska. Surrounded by high rises and devoid of the pomp of its more important cousins, the burial site has a down-to-earth, business-like atmosphere.

In Numbers

697 Additional buses will ferry people to grave sites throughout

Warsaw between Oct 31st and Nov 1st.

114 hectares 40 13th century

Warsaw’s largest cemetery in Bródno (1.2 million bodies)

The number of cemeteries in Warsaw

Warsaw’s oldest cemetery: found behind St. John’s

Cathedral (currently ul. Kanonia)

Pańska Skórka (the Lord’s Skin) is a Warsaw classic and can be found outside every cemetery during All Saints’ Day. Allegedly made from egg whites, sugar and assorted flavorings, it’s been a kids’ favorite in the capital for more than a century, although it is said that no-one knows who actually makes it! Another popular morsel are sweet puffed-rice balls. Don’t expect to see many food trucks though; it’s not that kind of day.

The tiny Karaite cemetery at the north-eastern tip of the Orthodox cemetery in Wola is the resting place used by the small Karaite community, a Turkic group originally from Crimea invited to Warsaw by the Tsarist authorities mainly to trade tobacco. Their name comes from their religion, Karaism, a form of Judaism, and the graves are marked in Karaite, a Turkic language with elements of Hebrew.

Warsaw’s Oldest

The triangular square behind St. John’s Cathedral in Old Town, now ul. Kanonia, served as a burial ground probably from the 13th century. It closed in 1780 in a bid to improve hygiene: that drive saw the opening of out-oftown cemeteries such as Powązki and Bródno. The figure of Mary at the back of the church is said to come from a late gravestone.

Don’t Forget the Crypt!

The tombs underneath St. John’s are impressive and hold the remains of many notable Poles, including King Stanisław August Poniatowski, the writer Henryk Sienkiewicz and prime minister and pianist Ignacy Paderewski. Look out for an avuncular priest with a green sash and a heavy chain of keys. For a small fee, he’ll unlock the gate and send you in the right direction.

FIND A GRAVE Krzysztof Kieślowski (1941-1996) Perhaps the greatest of all Polish film directors, Kieślowski is buried in Powązki. Instead of the usual cross, his grave is marked by a bronze cast sculpture of the director’s hands making a frame; a symbol that each can interpret their own way. In 2013, the hand sculpture was stolen by a methadone addict, who sold it to a scrap metal dealer for zł. 300. “I had nothing to live on!”, he pleaded in court.

Bolesław Prus (1847-1912) The Powązki grave of Bolesław Prus, a giant of Polish literature, stands out from the typical neo-Gothic creations of that age. Simple in form, devoid of ornamentation or symbols, it consists of a stone monolith with a boy standing on his toes trying to embrace it. Above the child is the inscription “Heart of Hearts”.

Marcin Pawłowski (1971-2004) The popular TVN news reader died aged of 33. Seriously ill with cancer, he continued to appear on TV and moved millions. His modern-art grave in Powązki features a symbolic door dividing the world of the living and the dead. The door is slightly ajar suggesting that the dead never completely leave us. warsawinsider.pl

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TRAVEL WROCŁAW

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WROCK AROUND THE CLOCK No longer an inside secret, Wrocław’s reputation as one of the jewels of Central Eastern Europe is thoroughly merited.

Easier to reach than ever before, we pick through the city’s highs and even highers to present the essential weekend...

BY ALEX WEBBER | PHOTOS BY ED WIGHT

THERE & BACK Both LOT and Ryan Nightmare operate daily connections to Wrocław with flight time taking approximately one hour. The availability of early bird deals mean it’s not uncommon to find cut price flights costing little more than zł.

25 (!) for a one-way ticket. That said, accounting for general dilly dallying (and the inevitable Wrocław airport taxi scam), many favor the overall convenience of the train. Bought on the day of travel, first class on a Pendolino will cost zł. 229 and zł. 150 in second; buy a couple of weeks in advance and those prices dip to zł. 149 and zł. 59 respectively. Journey time is pegged at approximately 3 hrs 40 mins. For those driving, Wrocław lies 350 kilometers south west of Warsaw – according to Google maps, that’s a drive time of about three and a half hours. >>>

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TRAVEL WROCŁAW

There’s not much Wrocław doesn’t do right, and that includes sightseeing

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AT A GLANCE Awangarda bwa.wroc.pl Bar Max barmax.pl Baszta baszta.wroclaw.pl Gnome Info Point krasnale.pl Granary Hotel thegranaryhotel.com Hydropolis hydropolis.pl Jadka jadka.pl

Konspira konspira.org Monopol monopolwroclaw.hotel.com.pl Puro purohotel.pl Racławice Panorama panoramaraclawicka.pl Stu Mostów 100mostow.pl Szynkarnia szynkarnia.com.pl White Stork Synagogue wroclaw.jewish.org.pl

SLEEPING BEAUTIES For minimalist luxury with art deco hints, book into the Monopol. A gratifying blend of marble, walnut and chic modern trappings, this historic hotel has entertained such luminaries as Marlene Dietrich and Pablo Picasso. What they’re less keen to tell you is that Hitler once goose stepped onto the balcony above the entrance.

Other noteworthy stays include the Granary, a converted medieval brewery with deluxe split-level suites, and the Puro, a place that boldly describes itself as ‘a functional work of art’. Recognized as one of the most innovative hotel brands around, expect hi-tech touches set against an ultra chic design.

ON THE MENU It’s improved. Though sub-standard rip-offs aimed at never-to-return tourists dominate, Wrocław’s dining scene is enjoying an overdue burst of form. Showing the way is Jadka, an ambitious project that reinterprets Old Polish cuisine by utilizing contemporary methods and handpicked regional produce. The vaulted brick ceilings add to the sense of dining somewhere truly special. Far less formal, Konspira offers a traditional menu amid a crowded interior bursting with Cold War mementos, while other locally-driven options include Stu Mostów and Szynkarnia – but more on those later. For ethnic bang and vegan goodness then look no further than Baszta, a superb Thai restaurant found inside a medieval tower with a resident ghost.

BUY BUY WROCŁAW If, by some quirk of fate, you find yourself in Wrocław looking for either meatballs or a bed, then the good news is that the local branch of IKEA was voted the best in the world earlier this year. For more of a ‘local’ experience then head to Hala Targowa, a busy covered market with an arched concrete ceiling reminiscent of a cathedral: offering a snapshot of Wrocław life, it’s an essential ethnographic diversion. Keep any aesthetic cravings satisfied by browsing Stare Jatki, a skinny, cobbled alley flanked by a dozen or so art and design stores run by upcoming Polish talent.

THE ART PART Looking raw and raggedy, the Nadodrze district to the north of Old Town is the city’s muster point for indy galleries, NGOs, design studios and assorted creative practices.

It’s also become known for its vibrant street art scene, the best examples of which can be admired in the potholed courtyards running behind ul. Roosvelta. Beyond Nadodrze, Awangarda is considered the edgiest gallery in the city, while the Wrocław Contemporary Museum – housed in and around a lumbering WWII air raid shelter – is a photogenic stunner: consider the Train to Heaven installation (a 30-meter steam train positioned to point skywards) its signature piece. Those more appreciative of the classics won’t want to miss the Racławice Panorama, a 140-meter wraparound canvas depicting Tadeusz Kościuszko’s military triumph over Russia in 1794. Apparently it’s the only remaining panoramic painting in the world, so anticipate mobs of baying school groups.

PRAISE THE LORD! Lit by antique gas lamps, and festooned with thousands of padlocks left behind by lovey dovey couples, Tumski Bridge is one of the city’s most photographed features. Across it, a gently bending street opens up to face what was allegedly the first brick building in town: the Cathedral of St. John the Baptist. The magnificence of the interior is only out-dazzled by the view from the steeple. Mind you, this isn’t the only church offering visitors the chance to get within touching distance of God. Not for the faint of heart, the twin towers of St. Mary Magdalene’s Church are connected by the overhead ‘Witches Bridge’ below which swirl the spirits of sinful women. Sticking to the Old Town, the spire of St. Elizabeth’s offers striking views onto the Rynek below.

GNOME MAN’S LAND Emerging during the anti Communist protests of the 80s, the Wrocław-born Orange Alternative found itself steered by the self-styled Major Waldemar Fydrych. Opting to baffle the system by staging surreal Monty Python-type stunts, the group’s absurd antics included a 2,000-strong march calling for the release of Santa Claus.

Mostly though, their escapades involved gnomes.

Mindful of this history, in 2001 City Hall unveiled a commemorative gnome by the corner of Świdnicka and Kazimierza Wielkiego, close to where the movement orchestrated many of their capers. Inadvertently, this kick-started a craze for gnomes that continues to this day: at present, it’s believed as many as 400 of the little buggers can be found around town. >>> warsawinsider.pl

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TRAVEL WROCŁAW

SITES & SIGHTS There’s not much Wrocław doesn’t do right, and that includes sightseeing. Families should check Hydropolis, an interactive exhibition that aims to ‘show water from various fascinating perspectives’. Romantics, meanwhile, will want to clamber aboard one of the various boats that sail around the rivers and canals that cut through the city.

The town hall, smack dab in the main square, houses the Museum of Burgher Art, and the interiors alone are worth the entry fee, while war nerds will be looking to find traces of the Red Army’s three-month siege of Festung Breslau – most will conclude with a visit to one of two Soviet cemeteries in the city. Following the cemetery theme, the Old Jewish Cemetery on the southern fringe of the city is an eerie, overgrown tangle of sunken tombstones and twisting vines. Yet although it was effectively wiped-out during WWII, Jewish life is gradually recovering: learn more by visiting the carefully renovated 19th century White Stork Synagogue.

LIQUID FINISH Nightlife is something that Wrocław could teach the rest of Poland a thing or two about. That’s especially true if you’re a beer lover. Though cut away from the rest of the action, the Stu Mostów brewery is positively groundbreaking, serving sublime craft beers to a neo-industrial backdrop of pipes, dials and glinting fermentation tanks. That the food is regarded as among the best in the city is the icing on the cake: it’s totally unmissable. Back in town, tap bars such as Szynkarnia and Kontynuacja present the latest trends in Polish brewing, while Bar Max does a great job of replicating its Warsaw sibling by serving rain forest cocktails

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to the prettiest people in the parish. Invariably, nightlife monsters will end their night / start the morning by falling out of one of the thumping venues found in the courtyards of ul. Ruska. Not unlike landing in Ayia Napa, it’s a bonkers zone filled with predatory, yelping women and shouty blokes wearing button down shirts and too much cologne.

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American Idol

Recently opened, Koko & Roy invite you to enjoy a New York-style brunch menu alongside seasonal ‘New American’ dinner and lunch offerings. Featuring quintessential brunch items such as eggs benedict, challah French toast and classic Harlem fried chicken and waffles, the menu also includes more rustic, Southern-influenced items as well as the kind of vegetable-focused choices currently big on the Brooklyn dining scene.

And of course, no brunch is complete without the perfect Bloody Mary!

Koko & Roy ul. Wilcza 43

Coming Soon! In the shape of Locale and La Fromagerie, the Cosmopolitan Tower

has already chewed up and spat out two decent venues. Now, we have a new volunteer ready to give this address a go. Run by Tomek Roehr – the creative force behind the acclaimed cocktail den Bar Wieczorny – work is under way on Cosmo Bar, a place that pledges ‘zero waste, sustainability and bartenders for the planet.’ Keep your eyes peeled for more!

The Perfect Pizza!

Now in our sixth year of business, Da Gusto has become a staple of Powiśle: a restaurant that’s celebrated across the district for its intimate atmosphere and authentic tastes. Most of all though, it’s our pizza that we’re famed for. Traditional in every respect, we offer a comprehensive range of pizzas cooked just how you’d expect in Italy itself. Connecting cooking with passion, Da Gusto is where pizza dreams are made!

Da Gusto ul. Przemysłowa 31/33, dagusto.com.pl

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Eyes on Sowa

Updated for autumn, N31 by Robert Sowa are delighted to announce their new seasonal menu. Of the highlights, guests can look forward to ostrich tenderloin served with Cheddar mushrooms and Cheddar cheese, as well as warming soups such as pumpkin with coconut milk and mango. For mains, Welsh lamb and slow-boiled wild boar with gherkins shall also make their debut. Finish with such desserts as fondant with wasabi foam and coconut ice cream.

N31 by Robert Sowa ul. Nowogrodzka 31, n31restaurant.pl

NEWSFLASH! Widely celebrated for triumphing on the Top Chef TV program, it’s been announced that Sebastian Olma will take up the reins as ‘creative chef’ at the Belevdere restaurant in Łazienki Park. Regarded as one of Poland’s brightest culinary talents, Olma’s international experience includes stints under Gordon Ramsay and Tom Aikens.

Timeless Style

Co-existing in perfect harmony, Brasserie Warszawska is where Polish cuisine finds itself opened up to French influences. Pairing classic French cooking techniques with the best local produce, we’re proud to welcome guests to enjoy flawless service and our exemplary menu. It is our fundamental mission to provide the very best in both atmosphere and cooking, a point that’s reflected by our Michelin Bib Gourmand.

Brasserie Warszawska Górnośląska 24, brasseriewarszawska.pl

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Celebration Time!

Book a table at some of the best restaurants in town for Warsaw Restaurant Week…

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s the 10th autumn edition of Warsaw Restaurant Week approaches, over 80 of the city’s top restaurants have already confirmed their participation. Offering guests the unique opportunity to try a three-course extravaganza for a cut-price of PLN 49, we’ve ensured that the experience is convenient and hassle-free: just select a restaurant, make your reservation, then make room in your diary for a night to remember!

With over 100,000 diners expected to enjoy Warsaw Restaurant Week, we’re expecting to break all previous records during our landmark tenth installation. Dedicated to ‘the culture of celebration’, October’s Restaurant Week aims to honor the whole concept of sharing and enjoying dinner with friends, relatives, colleagues and co-workers. Certainly, this is something that has taken off in recent years – industry studies show that the Polish catering industry has doubled in size over the last decade, as has the number of restaurants touting table service. Meanwhile, recently released data shows that the percentage of Polish

people who never go out to eat has plunged from 50% down to 38%. Cutting to the chase, there has never been a better time to enjoy the city’s restaurant sector!

ABOUT THE FESTIVAL The Festival will take place between October 20th and October 31st. Tables can be booked via our website (www.restaurantweek.pl) from September 26th. Many restaurants will prepare two set menus that guests can choose from, with a number now choosing to propose a vegetarian alternative. Each guest will be given the opportunity to comment on their experience.

We would also like to warmly invite interested parties to check out the accompanying events that we will be running simultaneously; these include workshops, seminars, concerts and exhibitions.

For further information, check: www.restaurantweek.pl.

20TH - 31ST OCT.

THE BEST RESTAURANTS FESTIVAL

3-Course Festival Experiences STARTER

MAIN COURSE

DESSERT

Book Now

49 PLN

WWW.RESTAURANTWEEK.PL

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A French Revolution

A visit to Pardon My French is the sophisticates choice to unwind, relax and recharge. From the moment you enter, the stresses of city life seep away. Drawing on the latest global trends, our interiors have been specifically designed to emphasize the ambiance and atmosphere of our addresses – with your convenience and comfort in mind, Pardon My French has undergone a complete metamorphosis.

Our city center branch has made the short move to Wilcza 3 just thirty meters from our previous premises. Set on the intersection of Wilcza and Mokotowska, the stunning, spacious interior promotes relaxation with the pink and gold accents imparting an air of intimacy that soothes the soul – much like our coffee, which we’re proud to say is ranked alongside the top coffee houses in Warsaw.

We’re now delighted to be able to welcome visitors on Sunday.

The changes have also swept across our address on Belwederska 32. Forget the outside world inside a luxurious, marble floored interior. Redesigned by Antonina Papiewska, the owner of Pardon My French, both studios feature the same color themes and design motifs: open partition walls in the pedicure zone, powder pink chairs and gold trimmings...

Visit us for the ultimate in relaxation: the hardest thing you’ll have to do, is choose the color for your nails...

Pardon My French ul. Wilcza 3 (corner of Mokotowska) & ul. Belwederska 32 pardonmyfrench.pl

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PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

EAT!

BACK TO BLACK

From the blackened, smoking ashes of Kotakota rises a new venture from cult local chef Adam Leszczyński. Seen as one of the great talents of his generation, Leszczyński has reopened his previous premises to serve a menu heavy on the use of activated charcoal. Primed for Instagram addicts, it’s a menu that’s resonated with millennial bloggers: the kimchi burger, served in a black bun, is a thing of inspiration. Paired with black-colored drinks, join the buzz inside an interior that’s scuffed and fashionably distressed. Czarna Woda ul. Bartoszewicza 3

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Eat! Review

THE BREAKFAST CLUB India Express turn the tables with a breakfast to remember...

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PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

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nce bruised and isolated, Wola’s rapid transformation into an upcoming business hub has had several consequences: patches of wasteland have been reborn as sparkly corporate compounds, while derelict factories are in the process of being redeveloped as gated residences and upmarket condos. A natural side effect of the ensuing construction and gentrification has been the number of restaurants and bars that have blossomed correspondingly. Perhaps not so expected, however, has been the amount of Indian eateries that have been unleashed as a result – nowhere else in Warsaw will you find a higher headcount of Indian restaurants.

Put simply, there is no room for more. Correction: there is no room for more of the same. See, while the standard is generally acceptable, the problem lies in the῾sameness’ of all these competing venues: same menus, same recipes, same interiors, same everything. Largely indistinguishable, if you’ve been to one you’ve been to them all. Then, along come India Express to shake up the sheets: open from 8 a.m. on weekdays, the USP here is a breakfast menu that opens doors you didn’t think existed: a portal that leads down unexpected paths lined with addictive big flavors...

Now I’ll have to be honest here, breakfast is not something I usually eat – at least, not out here. Try as they might, it’s just something the locals can’t seem to master: cottage cheese and a soggy Frankfurter? I’d really rather not. Fortunately though, where the Poles have failed the Indians haven’t. To them, breakfast is more than just a one dimensional procedure through which they must solemnly file past. On the contrary, it’s a carnival of color and taste. Over sips of milky masala chai, I watch in awe as the table swells and heaves as dishes are delivered: there is masala dosa that’s crisp and fragrant; cherry tomatoes that are gently spiced; and fresh cucumber sprinkled with chili and cumin. Complementing those come omelets with seasoned veg and vegetable parathas. There’s a messy street food-style to it all that’s a pleasure to the sight – within moments the table has become a canvas of unforeseen tastes and aromas. The only improvement you could wish for? That’s the arrival of gooey Sri Lankan chili fried eggs and a chicken parantha served with a cooling raita – but guess what, say the word and that’s what emerges. Offering considerbaly more than their rivals, India Express have landed at precisely the right time – just when you thought Warsaw’s Indian fad had curved out, along come this mob to remind you, actually, no it hasn’t... (AW)

India Express Wola ul. Sienna 87, indiaexpress.pl

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PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

Eat! Review

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Bazar Kocha ul. Mokotowska 33/35, bazarkocha.pl

THE BIG FALL

Fall in love this autumn with a seasonal menu to remember...

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s rain tips down and leaves lose their luster, thoughts turn to what lies ahead: autumn.

Will it be damp and soggy? You bet. But the coming weeks also promise a pallet of exquisite colors and vivid sensations. Meticulously in tune with the shifts in the weather, few places manage to channel the nuances of the season in quite the same manner as Bazar Kocha. Connected to mother nature as if by an invisible, magic bond, it’s a restaurant that excels through its attention to detail.

That’s something you come to understand before you’re even seated. Effecting the look of a farmers’ market, the interiors flood with natural light bringing the most out of the woodsy elements and bright colored jars that fill all the shelf space. It feels carefully considered yet simultaneously familiar and warm: walking inside Bazar Kocha is like entering into a hug with a longstanding friend.

Closely bound to the season, the climate and the earth itself, the menu is an evolving work that compels all those who study it: beef tartar soon becomes a more-ish mash of seasoned tender

Opposite page: Beef tartar, shallots, mushroom aioli, gherkins Top Left: Sturgeon fillet, smoked lard, boletus mushrooms, kohlrabi confit Top Right: Cauliflower steak, salsify, topinambur

loin, marinated shallots, mushroom aioli and home-pickled cucumbers. Each bite brings with it new pleasures; mains, and a sturgeon fillet, it’s skin baked to a satisfying crisp, enters the scene accompanied by smoked lard, firmly fleshed boletus mushrooms and a kohlrabi confit. Masterfully arranged, the ingredients happily pose together in an aromatic splash of mushroom consomme; and then, a cauliflower steak with sous-vide cooked grapes, salsify and baked topinambur – comforting but complex, it’s a dish that’s built to battle the growing chill in the air outside.

Now a firmly established part of the Mokotowska scene, chef Tomasz and owner Marcin are looking increasingly confident in their output and ideas. Evidence of this is more than anecdotal: since the start of summer, tasting nights in which a particular ingredient or technique is given the spotlight have become a recurring monthly theme.

With autumn looking especially abundant, make a note to yourself to come check it out – after all, an autumn hug is tough to beat... (AW) warsawinsider.pl

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Eat! Interior Design

BEAUTIFUL ON THE INSIDE

Following a stale period in which restaurants were seemingly content to copy each others style, 2017 has seen a burst of fresh ideas...

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What the hell is it? Seen as an amorphous blob composed of triangular white plates and large glass panels, Genesis restaurant is an instant head turner. Designed by Mac Stop (clients: Google, Carlsberg, Pfizer and just about any other major firm you can think of), it’s not just his interior that makes an impact: entering, guests can’t resist looking high and low; the feeling is of stepping into your own futuristic space adventure. Pl. Europejski 5, fb.com/genesiswarsaw Gone are the times that vegan restaurants looked like some student’s living room. At Vegan Ramen, Warsaw-based studio MFRMGR have been drafted in to create a bright, contemporary space that, apparently, references the “anarchic layered

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF RESTAURANTS

DRUKARNIA

For more on this story, visit warsawinsider.pl

V E GA N R A M E N

LEONARDO VERDE

G E N E S I S R E S TAU R A N T

aesthetic of Japanese cities.” Sprinkled with cute Japanese props, dozens of ‘levitating shelves’ are supported by white, floor-to-ceiling tubular poles whose density and number brings to mind a thick bamboo forest. ul. Finlandzka 12A, fb.com/veganramenshop Wrapped inside an ugly 1950s facade, this former printing house unravels to expose a sensational interior high on retro pieces: jagged-shaped stone floor tiles, a red neon and stern Socialist era statuettes lend a heavy PRL accent, though the big statement at Drukarnia is supplied courtesy of the architecture itself. Tall windows, high ceilings and a peculiar spiral staircase that disappears into nowhere collude to lend

Drukarnia a sense of light, space and depth. ul. Mińska 65, drukarnianapradze.pl Though not as loud as other interiors to have recently made their debut, it’s perhaps the modesty of Leonardo Verde that makes it so successful. What would otherwise be in danger of looking typically Warsaw (concrete, brickwork, exposed wiring), is rescued by cool geometric patterns, warm lighting, thoughtful plant arrangements and the beautiful, large format illustrative artwork of Dominique A. Faryno: it’s a quietly confident environment that’s exactly right for the overall concept. ul. Poznańska 13, fb.com/leonardo.verde. restaurant warsawinsider.pl

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MARKET LEADER?

Opened just at the end of September, Hala Gwardii is more than just a market place: it’s the biggest gastronomic story of Warsaw’s year...

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PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE KEVIN DEMARIA, OPPOSITE PAGE PROVIDED BY THE FELIKS STAMM FOUNDATION, PART OF HALA GWARDII’S ‘HISTORY OF POLISH BOXING’ EXHIBITION

Eat! Market

Hala Gwardii Pl. Mirowska 2 (open Fri-Sat 8:00-1:00; Sun 9:00-23:00)

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ritten into Warsaw’s DNA, Hala Mirowska has withstood the vicissitudes of time to become an ingrained part of the city’s folklore: the town’s biggest chefs use it; old women dressed in woolly berets use it; even drunks have come to rely upon it for desperate floral gifts on the way back from the pub. Hala Gwardii, on the other hand, hasn’t enjoyed the same exposure. “Where’s that,” some will ask. “Is that the bit behind Mirowska,” will venture the more enlightened. The answer to that would be yes. But now after years of playing second fiddle, Gwardii has been swooshed back under the spotlight and in staggering style.

Taking its cue from the market places of Lisbon and Marseilles, Hala Gwardii aims to reprise its former pre-war role as the city’s best-known food market. To do so, CBR Events – the building’s operator – have recruited the great (and even greater) of Warsaw’s gastro scene: set around a communal dining area, 25 vendors have been signed up to feed the hip, happy and hungry that the project has attracted. Of these, there’s raclette from the cool couple at Melt Cheeeese & Wine, vegan goodness from Tel Aviv, the unimpeachable Warburger, boutique desserts at Deseo and a butcher to salute at Salon Beefshop.pl.

But Gwardii is not just about the finished article: occupying a whole flank of this cavernous hall is a farmers’ market set to rival anything Warsaw has seen before. Designed to complement, rather than compete, with the market found outside, early indicators suggest a natural gravity effect that will be of benefit to both. Yet as pleasing as all this is, this represents more than just the (re)birth of a busy food bazaar.

An urban concept the like of which the city has yet to see, Hala Gwardii is a sensory big bang: a place for workshops, concerts, art and socializing. A catch-all solution aimed at more than just the ‘creative classes’ and ‘post-hipster generation’, there’s a direction here that feels focused on creating a space that makes Warsaw better.

School of Hard Knocks

More than just a marketplace, Hala Gwardii played a key role in the development of Polish boxing: now, it’s remembering the man that made it happen…

Pictured: Feliks Stamm, center, celebrates success with 1964 Olympic gold winners Marian Kasprzyk (right) and Jerzy Kulej (left).

Look around and above and one theme emerges: boxing. Having survived WWII with all but token scarring, Hala Gwardii briefly functioned as a bus depot before being handed over to a sports club named Gwardia Warszawa. Under the inspirational guidance of trainer Feliks ‘Papa’ Stamm, the boxing team based here scored success after success on the domestic and international stage.

Considered ‘the father of Polish boxing’, it was under Stamm’s tutelage that Marian Kasprzyk won a gold medal at the 1964 Tokyo Olympics. Fighting with a broken thumb, Stamm’s motivational words lifted the injured Kasprzyk enough for the boxer to record an epic win in the final against Soviet rival Ricardas Tamulis.

Yet it is Stamm’s connection to Hala Gwardii that echoes particularly strongly. In 1953 the European Boxing Championships were held right under this roof, with Stamm’s young charges ensuring their place in folklore by racking up a haul of nine medals (five of which were gold). “This was about more than just boxing,” says Paula Stamm, President of the Feliks Stamm Foundation and the great granddaughter of the legend. “Given the historical context, by triumphing over German and Soviet boxers, Poland’s success felt both politically and spiritually important.” With the Polish anthem ringing out, and many fans reduced to tears of joy, Feliks ‘Papa’ Stamm left Hala Gwardii a national hero. “At the time,” says Paula Stamm, “it was as if a miracle had happened!”

Festooned with images recalling the trainer’s glory years, and featuring a ‘boxing museum’ run by the Stamm Foundation, history has come full circle with Hala Gwardii’s sporting past now fittingly remembered. However, this is not the end. In September a final design was selected for a statue of the trainer, with the monument due to be unveiled the following May – the 65th anniversary of the Stamm’s European miracle…

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EAT! Listings By in large, you can expect to pay between zł. 20-35 for starters, and zł.

35-70 for mains. Expect those prices to double in the case of the city’s fine dining venues. Those wishing to cut costs should seek out the weekday business lunch deals now offered by most restaurants. When tipping, 10-20% is considered polite though be aware of automatic service charges in some venues.

2016 Best of Warsaw Award Winner BEST OF WARSAW 2016 KEY WINNERS Fine Dining - Nolita Casual Dining - MOD Upscale Casual - Dyletanci & Rozbrat20 Modern Polish - Mała Polana Smaków

american 43 bakeries 44 balkan & russian 44 british 44 burgers & street food 44 chinese 45 fine dining 45 french 46 georgian 47 greek & turkish 47 hawaiian 48 hungarian 48 indian 48 indonesian 50 international 50 italian 56 japanese & sushi 56 jewish 58 korean 58 latin & spanish 58 mexican 59 middle eastern 61 polish 61 scandinavian 67 seafood 67 specialty food shops 68 steak houses 68 thai 70 vegan 70 vietnamese 71

american Brooklyn Restaurant & Bar Gone are the fancy pants culinary creations once found in the basement, ousted in favor of a menu of pimped-up soul and street food, salads and steaks.

This means fresh tacos not to mention the best-selling ‘Mito’s Beef Ribs’. The ground floor burger bar is more prosaic, offering a standard line-up of burgers and wings.

STEAKHOUSE /BAR

(C4) Al. Jana Pawła II 18 (Rondo ONZ), tel. 22 114 3434, brooklynbw.eu

Champions Sports Bar While the concept and style look dated, there’s no faulting the attention to detail – with TVs positioned all over the place you won’t miss a kick. The heavy décor brings to mind the trans-Atlantic sports bars of the 90s, with glinting trophies, whirring machines, clacking pool tables and a cacophony of commentaries. Hell, there’s even a boxing ring. But you can’t criticize their consistency: the food is always onpoint, the staff are pro, while the generous floor plan makes it suitable for unwieldy groups of large and loud lads. (D5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 630 5119, champions.pl Hard Rock Café Instantly recognizable by the giant neon guitar outside, Hard Rock has a pierced staff of skater boys and rock girls and a menu that is, if nothing else, completely reliable. Peruse rock’n’roll swag that includes Joplin’s blouse, Prince’s guitar and Shakira’s pants. (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, hardrockcafe.pl

Koko & Roy How’s this for a makeover – what was formerly Bacio, a grotto-style den festooned with fairground trinkets, has reemerged as a smart eatery with a warm, pared-down design that’s ripe for modern times. American-owned, it’s a place that seeks to present a different side to US-cuisine: not the run-of-the-mill fare found in two-bob burger joints, rather homespun dishes cooked with elan. Thus far, the ‘odds & ends’ (fried pig ear, chicken hearts and sriracha aioli)

Nowogrodzka 47a www.beefandpepper.pl reservation: (+48) 785 025 025 Open 7 days a week Monday-Saturday: 12.00-24.00 Sunday: 12.00-23.00

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EAT! Listings have been the big hit. Equally suited for after-work drinks, the cocktails are first class. (D5) ul. Wilcza 43

bakeries Aromat That many consider this their favorite bakery says it all. French flour and an expert baker ensure brilliant results, while the lemon éclairs deserve their own Facebook page. (C4) ul. Sienna 39, fb.com/ piekarnia.aromat Charlotte While the fancy crowd isn’t to everyone’s liking, the atmosphere feels truly continental: even more so in warm weather when the terrace packs out. (D6) Al. Wyzwolenia 18 (enter from pl. Zbawiciela), bistrocharlotte.com Paul Specializing in pastries, baguettes and other baked goods, this French chain have rapidly entrenched themselves in the capital following their debut last year.

Various locations, boulangeries-paul.com Qki QKI is the work of two sisters (in-law!) with a passion for the sweeter things in life. Shunning shortcuts and artificial nasties, cookies, cakes and pastries comprise the bulk of the offer here. ul. Topiel 19 & ul.

Belgradzka 14, qki.waw.pl Rozbrat 20 Bakery & Wine Corner Best known for fathering Butchery & Wine, Daniel Pawełek makes his mark on Powiśle with the launch of Rozbrat 20, a high-end bakery that’s worthy of the rave reviews. Breakfast here is among the best you’ll find in Warsaw. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 20, rozbrat20.com.pl SAM Co-owner Małgorzata Kusina-Doran is a fine-bread connoisseur, honing her skills at a bread-making course chaired

by Raymond Blanc. While SAM have expanded to cover numerous locations, this has not been to the cost of the overall quality. many locations, sam.info.pl Zdrowa Konkurencja Aside from piping hot, fresh wheels of

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bread, visitors are popping in to collect readymade bagels and sandwiches loaded with pulled pork, pastrami and other quick bites. (C2) Pl. Bankowy 4, zdrowakonkurencja.pl

balkan Ba Adriatico As a starter, then the grilled peppers stuffed with creamy, regional cheese are irresistible. But then so too the octopus salad. Mains are a victory of simplicity, with dishes like skewered minced beef served with a bitey sauce and a soft, pillowy Lepinja bread. Yet ignore Thursday seafood night at your peril. Croatian-run, this neighborhood spot has an unassuming air that belies the general quality. (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 50/52, ba-adriatico.pl Banja Luka Lots of clunky timber and imported ceramics set the scene at this eatery, a Balkan stalwart that’s known for its economical pricing structure and bulky portions. Grilled meats are prominent and the food largely reliable. (E8) ul. Szkolna 2/4, tel. 22 828 1060, banjaluka.pl

british Ę Rybę A couple of places have tried to emulate the taste of the British seaside, but this is the de facto codfather. Here’s a spot where the chips are golden, the fish fresh and the batter crisp and light. Now also serving British breakfast, albeit at a time when most normal people will have already eaten. (E4) Al. Jana Pawła II 18, erybe.pl

burgers & street food Barn Burger Retaining a loyal crowd ever since their 2012 entry on the burger circuit, Barn Burger offer a loud and lively atmosphere and much celebrated burgers with goofy names like Heart Attack and Muppet. The

list by the door notes the results of their American-style eating competitions / greed-fests. (D4) ul. Złota 9. tel. 512 157 567 Beef’N’Roll If the wheels have fallen off the burger craze then no-one told Beef’N’Roll.

Originating as a food truck, their success has been such that a fixed venue was required. Everything about the food and drink suggests quality is the main consideration. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel.

531 707 070, beefnroll.pl Burger Bar Warsaw has come full-circle: years after burgers briefly starred as the national food, it’s the original burger joint that still bosses the field. ul. Puławska 974/80 (enter from Olkuska) & ul. Krucza 41/43 Meat Warsaw This project sees a cosmic 1960s rotunda revived as a compact eatery whose brief menu is butch and brawny and comfortably familiar: Philly cheese steak served inside fresh pitta bread; Polish white sausage in a thick corn sauce; and boczek that’s soft in parts and crackly in others – lathered in a thick gloss of plum glaze, it’s a dish that sets off fireworks.

(C4) Corner of ul. E. Plater / Świętokrzyska, fb.com/meatwarsaw

Okienko When the chips are down and you’re looking for emergency nourishment, then join the queue outside Okienko: serving Belgian-style frites in paper cones, this street-side hatch is a true window of life. The roster of sauces, written up in marker pen on the wall tiles, are often supberb. With the financial transaction sealed, enjoy your winnings on their small outdoor terrace. (D7) ul. Polna 22 Pogromcy Meatów Yearn no more for the elusive flavor of the backyard BBQ. Specializing in grilled meat, find exactly just that loaded into artisan buns alongside locally grown greens. The sense of homespun quality makes this the kind of comfort food that Warsaw has been missing for years. (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, tel. 505 703 508 SAS Duck & Chicken Although SAS Duck & Chicken feels reminiscent of the ‘hipster pop-up’ we

EAT! Listings first saw three or four years back, they’ve taken a tried and tested format and hit refresh. A small and simple space it might be, but this kitchen crew have won hearts and minds with an understandable menu that presents comfort food at its glorious best: BBQ hot wings, duck confit burgers, chicken skewers and turkey in a big, buttery brioche. These are simple pleasures refined for a picky palette. (D5) ul. Piękna 54, fb.com/ sasduckandchicken Warburger While Warsaw has lost its appetite for burgers, you wouldn’t necessarily tell by popping in WarBurger. Set inside a diminutive cabin, join the scrum for jazzed-up burgers that use slow-food ingredients. If not the best, they’re most certainly up there. (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1

chinese

the kind of sparkling chandelier last seen in Boogie Nights. (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, fb.com/Reginabar Rico’s Concept Never let a name fool you. While Rico’s might sound more like a Mexican food truck, the reality presents a former bathhouse luxuriously decorated with hand-painted Majolica, swanky fittings and even a shimmery pool. The menu has won plaudits around town for its stunning authenticity. Full review next issue. ul.

Krakowskie Przedmieście16/18 To Tu Dumpling Bar A shabby looking shack cabin, To Tu offer what are seriously considered some of the best – if not the best – dim sum in town. Magic-ked up by a Manchurian exile, the experience isn’t unlike being in a sweaty back street haunt in Asia. And that’s a good thing! ul. Niekłańska 33, chinskapierogarnia.pl

fine dining Pańska 85 Ample in size, the interiors speak of money well spent. This is especially true because despite the luxury trimmings Pańska looks good without ever losing its dignity. With their kitchen staff headhunted from across China, the food sets a standard that has yet to be seen in any Chinese restaurant in Warsaw: there’s delicate salmon rolls wrapped in mango; dim sum that are pouches of pure goodness; and Sichuan-style pork that’s a blaze of sizzle and spice.

The Beijing Duck, carved and served table-side, is the highlight. (B4) ul. Pańska 85, panska85.com Regina Bar Stepping past a pair of flowing red drapes at the entrance, guests are ushered in to discover an eclectic world that marries the tastes of New York’s Little Italy to Chinatown next door. This is done excellently with the menu presenting the very essence of ethnic comfort food: General Tso’s chicken, Cantonese roast duck and light, leopard-spotted pizzas.

Brought to you by the makers of MOD, it’s therefore natural that the original style extends to kooky interiors tinged with a trace of retro: a tall mirrored wall and

Amber Room at the Sobański Palace Set in the pre-war Pałac Sobańskich, this wedding white manor house is the epitome of luxury: plush, discreet, elegant and serene, it unwraps like the most beautiful of presents – a network of corridors and stairwells take guests through a series of rooms and side-chambers.

Impossibly almost, the food measures up to the surrounds. For mains, the sea trout is spectacular, arriving alongside creamy root parsley and fried cubed cucumbers.

(E6) Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, amberroom.pl Atelier Amaro The recipient of Poland’s first Michelin star, Atelier promotes pedigree Polish produce enhanced by modern techniques, with courses interspersed by occasionally bizarre interludes (leaves, flowers, twigs, etc.). It’s an extraordinary dining experience, and one which confirms the growing cult of Wojciech Amaro. In the hours you’re here the world stops and you leave feeling like James Bond.

Reservations are mandatory, but this is a restaurant that tops the foodie bucket list. (E6) ul. Agrykola 1, tel. 22 628 5747, atelieramaro.pl

Belvedere Łazienki Królewskie Set in an imperial age glass orangery, it’s festooned with intricate latticework and botanical exotica. The updated interiors are the work of acclaimed set designer Boris Kudlicka, and lend a fresh, contemporary tone that goes hand in hand with the menu. But behind the gels and emulsions and pretty little swirls, this is cooking of substantial depth; it’s cooking that takes you to the very soul of Polish nature. ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. 22 558 6701, belvedere.com.pl Chłodna 15 by Wilamowski Unrecognizable from its previous incarnation, the restaurant wing of what was, until recently, La Maison, has undergone a considerable refurbishment to lend it more gravitas. The big change, however, is the food: the daily changing menu has been purposefully kept limited, allowing chef Arek Wilamowski’s crew to keep standards high. On our visit, that meant a sophisticated French duck pate in croute cake with raspberry jam and long pepper; and cod fillet a la Grenobloise. It’s already being talked about as a Michelin candidate. (B3) ul.

Chłodna 15 L’enfant Terrible Looking like he’s just swaggered in from a rock concert, the unconventional style of Michał Bryś goes beyond surface detail alone. Promising maximum excitement, his imaginative menu isn’t short on daring twists and rollercoaster highs.

Maverick in every sense of the word, this is a chef that pushes boundaries in a way few others would dare. Though the menu changes often, keep an eye on recurring classics such as ‘tomatoes, tomatoes, tomatoes’, a kickass course that presents the humble tomato in about ten different forms! More informal than the other top bracket restaurants, the brainwashed loyalty of Enfant’s fans says much for it. (D8) ul. Sandomierska 13 (enter from Rejtana), tel. 22 119 5705, eterrible.pl N31 One of the original pioneers of modern Polish cooking returns with renewed warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings vigor. That’s Robert Sowa, and his N31 restaurant has already made a massive splash with an upmarket, showbizzy crowd enjoying complex cooking amid a luxurious interior of pristine linen and glinting tableware. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 31, n31restaurant.pl

sin, executing the ideas of his mentor with accuracy and passion. The cooking is detailed, balanced and elegant, with the highlight of our visit being deer in plum sauce. A thing of imperial, velvety richness it’s a dish that turns up the volume on a memorable experience. (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (Hotel InterContinental Warsaw), warsaw.intercontinental.com

Nolita BEST WAWA 2016 “Fine Dining” The deluxe dining scene is filling out in Warsaw, and there’s now a few restaurants that can present an equitable claim for the No. 1 spot. However, it’s Nolita that perch at the top, with a menu that sees largely classical recipes through a sharp, modern prism – chef Jacek Grochowina has created a place that’s coherent and understandable without sacrificing values of innovation. Looking chic and high end, the tastes and sensations in this restaurant are thrilling: diners are left speechless by the tuna tartar, while the aged beef fillet is an Insider mainstay. (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 292 0424, nolita.pl

Salto Fine dining gets a South American makeover thanks to Martin Gimenez Castro, an Argentinean who has emerged as one of the most influential chefs in Poland. While some critics grumble that Warsaw’s top end scene has flat-lined, Salto push the envelope in terms of breaking boundaries and probing new ground. Light, fresh and full of zing, the ceviche is a must, as is a delve around the Sunday steak menu. Desserts, meanwhile, are among the most inventive in town: a brilliant demonstration of Castro’s passion and personality, order the ‘Childhood / Irresponsible / Fantasy / Fun’ and you’ll understand what we mean. (D5) ul. Wilcza 73 (enter from Emilii Plater), tel. 22 584 8771, saltorestauracja.pl

Platter by Karol Okrasa It’s a fact that Okrasa’s appearances in the kitchen are fleeting and rare, but that’s done nothing to hurt this restaurant’s prestige. Head chef Łukasz Pielak has proved to be a lethal assas-

Senses Andrea Camastra’s Michelin-starred tasting menu is a succession of impossible highs and makes a big deal of scientific methods and culinary advances. Full of theater and unpredictable flourishes

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(billowing mists, imaginative presentation, edible cigars...), this restaurant is never short on dare and dazzle. (C2) ul. Bielańska 12, tel. 22 331 9697, sensesrestaurant.pl Signature You feel a millionaire just being here: we’ve heard the interiors described as a ‘Monegasque state of mind’, and that’s not a bad way to surmise a décor that’s all about friezes and reliefs dated from the time this was the Soviet Embassy, lavish 1950s Oswald chairs, lighting by Serge Mouille and original Marilyn photos shot by the acclaimed Milton Greene.

Food-wise the restaurant makes a massive splash with a menu that’s clever, creative and pretty. Count on Signature’s seasonally changing desserts providing a happy ending. (D5) ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 55 38755, signaturerestaurant.pl

french Bistro la Cocotte With access through a shadowy courtyard, the sensation you’re stepping inside a little secret is a pleasure in itself.

Presenting itself in a riot of red and white gingham Cocotte feels warm and intimate, a factor aided by a small open kitchen and the atmosphere of home. The menu, chalked up on the blackboard, is a flexible affair that makes use of the ingredients at

EAT! Listings hand, and is divided into a smattering of light bites, desserts and plat du jour. (D6) ul. Mokotowska 12, tel. 664 906 000 La Cocotte Saska Already well regarded on account of a highly successful venture just off Pl. Zbawiciela, La Cocotte have spread their wings to set up shop in scenic Saska.

A typical French-style bistro / wine bar, the offer includes a brief but largely brilliant menu whose main strength is its mussels. The wine list is substantial and French-focused and enjoyed by a smart, upmarket audience. (H4) ul.

Walecznych 68A No Comment Set inside one of those momentous towers that support Most Poniatowskiego, you don’t feel like you’re in a restaurant, you’ll feel like you’re in a film – something weird by Aronofsky or Lynch. Seating is small and tight, set around glass-topped tables that favor form over function. But there’s a reasoning behind this which soon becomes apparent. No Comment is all about intimacy, about bending over platters for surreptitious slurps of New Zealand oysters. It’s about decadence, about clinking glasses and toasting the moment. Most of all, it’s about authentic French style. (F4) Al. 3 Maja 16/18A, fb.com/nocommentwarszawa

georgian Chinkali Signposted by a Georgian-language shingle, there’s a real sense of pleasure about this place. More modern than your typical folksy ethnic outpost, Chinkali’s draw is indeed its chinkali: dough purses packed with meaty broth.

There’s a genuine homemade quality to these slurpy bundles of joy, meaning that while they’re authentic, consistency can vary. And don’t miss out on the red bean chachapuri washed down with a mouthwash-colored tarragon lemonade.

(D4) ul. Zgoda 3 Klukovka Jana Pawła’s pavilions are the unlikely location of this culinary beacon: amid the aggressive waft of its kebab shop neighbors, Klukova presents itself as a

warming mouse hole filled with banter, babble and rich aromas. Specializing in the foods of ‘the east’, this means a menu inspired by the tastes of Georgia, Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan, and more. The mutton manty dumplings are great, and best appreciated with a bottle of unfiltered Lithuanian beer. (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 45A, klukovka.pl Rusiko Explaining Georgian cuisine isn’t all that hard. To the uninitiated, it’s representative of the heart, spirit and passion of its people, a cuisine the values the concept of the feast: wine, laughter and song find themselves elevated to roles of primary importance. A food of life, spice and whole-hearted tastes, consider Rusiko as the best ambassador there is for this surprisingly diverse kitchen. Live music lends the weekends a good-humored twist.

Note: closed Monday. (E5) Al. Ujazdowskie 22, tel. 22 629 0628, rusiko.pl

greek & turkish Paros Out of all of Warsaw’s Greek contributions Paros dazzles most with a glitzy look that’s a complete U-turn from the typical taverna look. Owned by the same team behind El Greco, the menu is identical, though a recent visit revealed a kitchen

resting on its laurels – not one plate on our table was finished. (D4) ul. Jasna 14/16, tel. 22 828 1067, paros-restauracja.pl Santorini Santorini looks scuffed and tired but there’s a bonhomie present that instantly engages. The kitchen attaches no value to things like presentation, preferring instead to simply treat diners to piles of grilled and skewered food that consistently tastes right. ul. Egipska 7, tel. 22 672 0525, kregliccy.pl/santorini/ Sofra A highly respected Turkish eatery with a wondrous beef mussaka and a wholly admirable lineup of other ethnic dishes: the lamb shashlik has never failed us.

Pleasingly informal, this neighborhood redoubt feels cheerfully unforced, and it becomes an easy place to hang around in.

(C6) ul. Wilcza 71, tel. 731 847 731 Taverna Patris This Greek restaurant is not about sophistication and finesse, it’s about truth and taste. Likewise, the interiors have no airs and graces: there’s a rough and ready style that’s apt for noisy celebrations and familial occasions. Tawerna Patris is not about shallow details or surface appearances. Instead, it’s a place of depth, a place of integrity, a place of joy. (G4) ul.

Wał Miedzeszyński 407, tel 22 357 11 11, tawernapatris.pl

Unique selection of Georgian wines and spirits

tue.-wed. from 1500 to 2300 thu.-fri. from 1500 to 2400 sat. from 1200 to 2400 sun. from 1200 to 2300 address: al. Ujazdowskie 22 00-478 Warszawa email: winebar@rusiko.pl + 48 22 628 45 76

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EAT! Listings Finest Authentic Indian Cuisine in Locations hawaiian Around Warsaw

WWW.CURRY-HOUSE.PL

Poke Declared this year’s ‘must-have snack’ by the Guardian, poke’s popularity has fanned across the map to become one of the most exciting food fads of recent times. Polynesian by birth, this raw fish salad comes served on a bed of rice and then topped with the sauce of your choice: lemon, teriyaki, and ginger among others.

While Warsaw has experienced the pleasures of poke before, here’s the first restaurant that’s dedicated to it: find it at the bottom of one of the Hogwarts-style turrets that support Most Poniatowskiego. (F4) ul. Kruczkowskiego 15B,

fb.com/WarsawPoke

HOŻA 54

536 443 771

ŻEROMSKIEGO 81 508 870 774

hungarian U Madziara U Madziara looks like it took two days to decorate. No-one goes here to marvel at the interiors though, they go in the knowledge that they’ll find great food at prices all bank cards can support. Chef Gabor’s signature goulash is one of life’s simple pleasures, though the service can come across as distracted and inattentive. (B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 620 1423, umadziara.pl

indian

WWW.HOUSE-OF-CURRY.PL

PATRIOTÓW 11A, FALENICA 512 533 415

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Bollywood Lounge Known for their raucous dusk-till-dawn parties, there is another less hedonistic roll filled by Bollywood: that of a restaurant. The menu is an uncomplicated, classic affair that’s an ideal primer for the party ahead. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, tel. 22 827 0283, bollywoodlounge.pl Bombaj Masala Probably the best looking Indian restaurant in Warsaw. After a disappointing couple of years Bombaj have upped their game and made a sparkling return to form. Bland, oily dishes have been replaced with all the rich, intense tastes you’ve come to hope for. (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 606 688 777

Curry House Ask for something extra hot in Curry House and by Vishnu that’s what you’ll get. Yet at Curry House there is more to sing about than just Poland’s highest voltage vindaloo. The curries are rich and sumptuous and consistently cited as among the best in the city. If in doubt, the chicken tikka masala is a fail-safe request. ul. Żeromskiego 81 & ul. Hoża 54 & ul. Towarowa 35, curry-house.pl Curry Leaf The post-industrial style is diluted by the number of Indian trinkets hanging off the vents and pipes. Owned by the same crew behind the lauded Curry House, you’d be completely correct to assume consistency and excellence. ul. Conrada 5, curryleaf.pl House of Curry Heat seekers can ‘enjoy’ a genuine deathby-fire experience at House of Curry, though far milder curries are available for more sensitive palettes – either way, the experience is fantastic, and good news for those stuck out in the depths of Józefów. ul. Patriotów 11 A, house-of-curry.pl India Express Wola Some notable exceptions / calamities aside, the standard of Indian food in Warsaw is surprisingly high – the problem lies in its ‘sameness’: same recipes, same menus and not enough being done to distinguish one restaurant from the next.

So it’s on this point that the latest branch of India Express really excel – open from 8 on weekdays, the draw here is a breakfast menu that gives a new spin to Indian food.

For full review, see p. 34. (B4) ul. Sienna 87, indiaexpress.pl

The Indian Hut An appalling flashback to dismal times, The Indian Hut is a timely reminder that not all is well in Warsaw’s Indian sector.

Forget the cheap, empty interior, the real problem here is the food: for the Insider that meant a vindaloo that looked and tasted like it had been scooped out from a train station toilet – our worst curry experience for years, possibly ever. (C6) ul. Piękna 68A

EAT! Listings Karma Fresh, contemporary interiors impart a chic, classy look that’s leagues ahead of Warsaw’s other Indian restaurants. The food is impressive, with fresh ingredients and an expansive menu: the vindaloo is a special standout, with big, punchy flavors that leave you tingling long after you leave. (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 501 400 386, restauracjakarma.pl Mandala Mandala is characterized by its blitzing big spices and a vindaloo capable of giving the sweat glands a work out.

For something calmer, the creamy mutton methi malai is a masterpiece. ul.

Emilii Plater 9/11 / ul. Etiudy Rewolucyjnej 9 / ul. Sienna 87, mandalaklub.com or indiaexpress.pl

Mr. India Split on two levels the design is contemporary if a little characterless: leather banquettes that leave a sweaty

bum print and wood paneling. No problem though, if it looks bland then the food isn’t.

That means an incredible butter chicken that’s deep and immensely satisfying.

Then there’s the vindaloo, an experience that leaves some close to spontaneous combustion. Undoubtedly one of the best regarded Indian restaurants in this town.

Al. KEN 47, tel. 22 213 0689, mrindia.pl Namaste India Responsible for first bringing quality, budget Indian food to Warsaw, Namaste have grown from humble beginnings (three tables and cooking done in a cupboard-sized space behind a curtain) to evolve into a bona fide two-floored restaurant. But expansion has come at the cost of quality – our last trip (March 2017) promises to be the last for some time.

(D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 15, tel. 22 357 0939, namasteindia.pl Om Indian restaurants are popping up like

toast, which isn’t a problem for most ex-pats. Catering to the more budget end of the market, Om’s Nepalese chefs know their way around the kitchen.

The chicken tikka masala is satisfying if nothing memorable, but the madras is something else: filled with sharp, punchy tastes that leave a lasting impression. While you get the idea it’ll never challenge the more established Indian restaurants in Warsaw, it’s the kind of place you’d be very happy to live next door to. (B4) ul. Sienna 86, omrestauracja.pl Rani Mere steps from Metro Natolin, this restaurant’s catchment area goes beyond just Ursynów. Owner Samir is a self-confessed foodie, and his vision includes a contemporary Indian menu that features pan-seared cod with turmeric, tomato salsa and mint chutney – wonderful. Rani will also please the traditionalists, with everything from

The recently opened restaurant and bar Mokotowska 69 is a perfect place for those who enjoy refined food and excellent wine. The restaurant offers classic Polish dishes with a modern twist, delicious steaks and a wide range of wine from all over the world. Mokotowska 69 was designed for those who enjoy Polish cuisine and those who would like to try classic Polish dishes with a modern twist, such as Mazurian crayfish in rowan brandy cream sauce, roasted catfish with pearl barley and beets or roasted duck with pears and blackcurrant. The restaurant also specialises in steaks made from American Black Angus (certified prime grade by the USDA), Scottish Aberdeen Angus and the highest quality Japanese Tajima-gyu cattle, “Kobe-style”: class 5, marbling 9+.

ul. Mokotowska 69, tel. (+48 22) 628 73 84 / (+48 22) 627 20 33, www.mokotowska69.pl

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EAT! Listings creamy kormas to vindaloo’s that leave your ears blowing smoke rings. Al. KEN 48/10, tel. 729 247 400, rani.com.pl

Poland’, but it’s deservedly retained a loyal core of customers. (D7) ul. Marszałkowska 21/25, tel. 22825 2375, tandoor.com.pl

Tandoor After nearly 20 years at the helm, owner Charanjit Walia has sold up and moved on, leaving a spiritual hole in his life-defining work. His parting shot has been a re-haul which has seen the interior modernized and brightened. Has the food suffered?

Not a jot. The chicken tikka butter masala is as formidable as ever. It’s no longer the self-styled, ‘the best Indian restaurant in

indonesian Warung Jakarta The menu has a street foodie edge and is divided into steps wherein diners first pick out their choice of protein, then their rice, before concluding with any vegetables add-ons (e.g. pak choy, green

beans or water spinach). While most Warsaw restaurants have a special lunch scheme going on, Warung’s is one that actually warrants a further look: find truly great off-menu dishes that are highly accessible to all levels of income. (D6) ul.

Piękna 28/34

international Aioli Once a gritty Stalinist leftover, Konstytucji has come a long way fast. A recent rush of bars and restaurants have aided the reintroduction of life to this concrete tundra, the most prominent of which being Aioli. Some might accuse it of being formulaic, but it’s clearly a formula that works: young and energetic, there’s a buzz here lasts long into the night.

Food-wise, it’s a steady choice based around burgers, pizzas and other things that their age bracket appreciates. (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 5, aioliinspiredbymini.pl Aioli This runaway hit has taken Warsaw by storm. It’s a jaunty space with hams hanging from hooks and long communal tables that thrive with life. Aioli’s breakfasts, sandwiches, pastas and pizzas are a lesson in clean, simple pleasure: nothing out of the world, just consistently good. This and the liberal prices mean there’s no shortage of people passing in and out the doors. (D3) ul. Świętokrzyska 18, tel. 22 290 102, aioli-cantine.com

A PLACE IN WHICH WINE PLAYS THE FIRST CHORD IN HARMONY WITH WHAT APPEARS ON THE PLATE…

WE WELCOME YOU

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Ale Wino Dip through an archway to discover Ale Wino, a beautiful wine bar whose menu has been well tailored to the season.

Tweaked for the season is the pork belly, a Złotnicka pig adorned with apple sugar snap peas and celery mousse – gorgeous.

As for the wine, put your faith in the sommelier, Oliver. (F5) ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 628 3830, alewino.pl Bazar Kocha Designed to evoke the spirit of a farmers’ market, the woodsy interior is filled with stall-style units neatly stacked with jars and pots. Yet these are not decorative decoys, but part of a thoughtful grocery offer aimed at showcasing Kocha’s own-made produce. Above all though, this

EAT! Listings is a restaurant whose menu is strongly influenced by concepts of ‘terroir’. The giant leg of lamb falls off the bone and is a dish to recommend and remember for several months to come. (D6) ul.

Mokotowska 33, bazarkocha.pl The Bell Original in concept and flawless in its execution, The Bell is what Saska Kępa has been crying out for: somewhere stylish but not overtly fancy. Led by the brilliant Jan Piecuch, the kitchen turns out plenty of natural flavors with unexpected twists. The halibut in miso is a fish that flaps with the best: enjoy it in a back garden that cascades with greenery and plant life. (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 21, thebell.pl Bez Tytułu A beautifully decorated restaurant on trendy Poznanska. The menu has French and Polish accents and reflects the chef’s creative streak well. (D5) ul. Poznańska 16, beztytulu.com Bibenda The menu declares Bibenda to be ‘a celebration of food, drink and togetherness’, and that’s precisely what it is.

Augmenting the warm, busy interiors are a thoughtful selection of craft beers and a concise menu that varies from month-tomonth. The apparent simplicity of the food is illusory and belies the kitchen’s knack for spotting interesting combinations such as goose with pumpkin puree, cranberry / red wine jam and chili caramelized beetroot. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 10, tel. 502 770 303, bibenda.pl Brasserie Warszawska Looking for classic cuisine with no daft flights of fancy? Here you have it. At a time when everyone wants to be Ferran Adrià, Brasserie has both a menu and interior that you can understand: panfried foie gras; elegant beef Rossini; and sinful apple tarte tatin, all served inside posh interiors of zinc-plated mirrors and chessboard floors. Their Michelin Bib Gourmand is a source of pride, but it’s the number of repeat clients that are the ultimate paean to the skills of the chef.

(E5) ul. Górnośląska 24, tel. 22 628 9423, brasseriewarszawska.pl Bubbles Occupying a small, square room, it’s

intimate and relaxed: a place busy with blackboards and bottles, crates and clutter. It radiates warmth and honesty.

The food is exquisite, and includes big, meaty snails farmed in Mazury, and their signature dish: Swiss-style raclette.

Presented on a wooden chopping board, this cheese dish is classic melty goodness, and served alongside a pile of potatoes, onions marinated with caramel and candied pumpkin. Considering the place doubles as a champagne bar the prices are remarkably moderate. (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 512 540 913, bubbles. com.pl Bułkę przez Bibułkę When Bułkę przez Bibułkę was opened the idea was simple – to create a boutique version of Subway: a high quality sandwich shop people would value. But after they started serving breakfast, the whole thing snowballed into a more bistro-style offer. Now there’s a second venue on Zgoda, it’s not just the quality that’s contributed to the success, but the atmosphere as well. ul. Zgoda 3 & ul.

Puławska 24, bulkeprzezbibulke.pl Casablanca Biały Kamień From the same team behind Na Lato comes Casablanca, a versatile venue that muddies the lines between café, restaurant, wine bar and hangout. Equally comfortable in each of these roles, it’s a place that feels fresh and cosmopolitan, not to mention completely in tune with the swank, glass surrounds. More to the point, it’s given wings to a part of Mokotów that before felt quite sterile. ul. Żaryna 2B, casablancawaw.com.pl Concept 13 You’d expect a rooftop meal at Poland’s ultimate luxury department store to cost the earth, but that’s not the case. The zł. 50 lunch deal allows Joe Public to enjoy the considerable skills of Dariusz Barański.

That he manages to create different pieces of art each and every afternoon is a testament to his talent – fellow chefs and foodies privately talk of him as a Michelin star in the making. (D4) ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7373, likusrestauracje.pl The Cool Cat Our visit featured a musical standoff between two waiters arguing over possession of the laptop, and a genuine piece of warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings plate art that was as delicious as it looked: beautiful deer surrounded by creative ingredients. Small menu and a fashionable crowd, but an immensely enjoyable place that adds further oomph to Powiśle. (F4) ul. Solec 38, tel. 787 698 700

with outrageous talent. His zander fillet thrills with every bite. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44A, dyletanci.pl

Dekant Wine Bar Not just a contender for Warsaw’s best new wine bar, but also Warsaw’s best new restaurant! The tuna tartar comes with the added ka-boom of a nose clearing wasabi, while the filet mignon (a snip at zł. 79) is simply astonishing. The surprise are the ash-cooked potatoes, beautiful things with a char that wows.

The desserts are few in number but equally outstanding: we fell in love with a passion fruit semi-freddo with strawberries marinated in Grand Marnier. (F5) ul.

Zajęcza 15, dekant.com.pl

Grand Kredens This mighty veteran continues to draw a steady custom on account of a wide-reaching menu that aims to keep everyone happy – and it usually does.

The design is surreal to say the least, and is laid out in such a way as to always guarantee a lively atmosphere. (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 111, tel. 22 629 8008, kredens.com.pl

Der Elefant This leviathan restaurant unravels in a maze of wrought iron and monochrome tiles – beautiful to look at (it was created

by Oscar winning set designer Allan Starski), it’s caused a stir for more than just this alone. Where once the menu looked like it was devised by throwing darts at a cookbook, the focus has now been narrowed. While some of the dishes are strictly middling, the filet mignon (zł. 69) is one of the best meat deals in town in terms of quality / price / consistency. (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, tel. 22 890 0010, derelefant.com Dom Here’s the very epitome of casual dining: set on the ground floor of a suburban house, the warm corners and garden views give Dom a real sense of homey charm. In line with all that is a menu that celebrates simple, honest cooking. Everyone who visits ends up loving the place. ul. Mierosławskiego 12, tel. 509 165 712 Dyletanci BEST WAWA 2016 “Upscale Casual” Filled with crisp, modern citizens that radiate confidence, Dyletanci introduces itself as a bistro set with green banquettes and Tom Dixon lamps. The wine selection is among the best in the nation, while the cooking has been left to Rafał Hreczaniuk, a workaholic chef

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Grunt i Woda An appealing wood-framed construction with hard hitting cocktails and a thoughtful menu that utilizes ingredients grown in their own garden. Watch out for their ‘jazz brunches’ each Sunday. Bulwar Flotylli Wiślanej Hala Koszyki Integrating old with new, this huge project brings together some 18 food outlets inside a busy interior that’s all iron girders and industrial lighting. While there’s a feeling that there should have been a bigger focus on artisan, independent traders, that’s done nothing to dent Koszyki’s astonishing popularity. Units of note include the Gringo Salsownia, Port Royal Fish & Oyster Bar, and the Sobramesa Tapas Bar. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63, koszyki.com InFormal Kitchen There’s plenty of fireworks over the course of a vibrant menu that sources its produce from regional eco farms: meat from within a 26-kilometer radius of Warsaw, dairy produce from Mazury and fish from Pomerania. The rump of lamb is a class act, and bettered only by the pear and thyme tart for dessert. (D3) Pl. Małachowskiego 2 (enter from Traugutta), tel. 531 918 534, informalkitchen.pl Kieliszki Na Hożej The only Polish graduate of the Alain Ducasse academy in Paris, Dawid Balana has combined everything he’s learned along the way to fashion a menu that’s high on local produce but cooked with a

classic French twist. The tastes are precise and well-balanced, but also varied enough to give a seemingly simple dishes several interesting sub-plots. From the outside, it looks like something straight from the 6th arrondissement. Through the door, and diners are met head-on by a seductive space that’s dark, intimate and full of gleaming glass: beautiful. (D5) ul.

Hoża 41, kieliszkinahozej.pl Kuchnia Otwarta Kuchnia Otwarta have created a swell of excitement that’s rippled way beyond Wilanów. Why? Plotted out by Michał Molenda, the menu is a sincere work based around regional, seasonal produce: nothing contrived, nothing forced, it’s a card that roots out the very best that Poland has to offer. ul. Klimczaka 1 (Royal Wilanów), kuchniaotwarta.pl La Brasserie Modern The interior of Didier Gomez whispers intimacy, yet it also embraces notions of space and light. The casual elegance that emanates from the design is accented by warm colors, low banquettes and glinting mirrors. The menu fits seamlessly with the surrounds: a fresh, modern look at French cuisine, but one that values clarity and simplicity. (D3) ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8332, sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com

Loft Color, that’s what Loft has. It’s everywhere – from the design, which is all bubble shaped lights and splashy, bright cushions, to the drinks: extravagant cocktails that possibly glow in the dark. The menu is full of playful experimentation, something reflected by a seasonal menu that has, in the past, presented such choices as chicken with strawberries. (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 668 016 964, restauracjaloft.pl Maui Bistro Tiki-style interiors pitch palm fronds against aquamarine and electric pink furnishings: yet despite the overt Polynesian theme, the menu is broad in its brushstrokes – giant cocobowls, hummus, tapas, tagliatelle and the area’s top burger. ul. Kazachzka 3, fb.com/ mauibistro

EAT! Listings MOD BEST WAWA 2016 “Casual Dining” Chef Trisno’s menu sets his French culinary training against his Singaporean upbringing. The outcome is a card (actually, a printed sheet of paper) that makes for dangerously enjoyable reading: duck hearts with beetroot / soy emulsion and braised red cabbage; duck confit with pok choy, soy / red wine sauce and spicy cranberry chutney. Moderate prices and funky décor (a retro mirrored wall, upside down plants hanging from the ceiling) give it an ad hoc edge and plenty of character. Note: by day its Warsaw’s top donut store, so visit at night for their proper menu. (D6) ul. Oleandrów 8, fb.com/ MODOleandrow8 Mokotowska 69 Set inside a rotunda at the tail end of the street, it’s a place that exudes elegance and class. Most of all, however, it’s a restaurant to be enjoyed. Brought to you by the same team credited for Merliniego

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5, Mokotowska’s appreciation of steak has been lifted from their elder sister.

Yet the virtues of this restaurant extend beyond steak alone: the Insider enjoyed a volley of greats – creamy breaded calf brains, sophisticated smoked eel, and Mazurian crayfish served in a deep, joyous sauce of rowan berry and brandy.

(E5) ul. Mokotowska 69, mokotowska69. com Momu.Gastrobar Back open after a revamp and a rethink, the biggest talking point has been the star addition of a wood smoker imported from the States. Allegedly the only one of its kind in Poland, the menu has been adjusted accordingly to play to this strength – with this in mind, the ribs are a must-have. (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 11, tel. 506 100 001, momu.pl Plato Conceived as a ‘smart casual’ restaurant, it’s a reasonably compact space with a

modern style and incandescent bulbs hanging from a complex cat’s cradle of interweaving wires: classy but nothing too flashy or flamboyant. Then there’s the menu, a strange work that sees Spanish influences brushing shoulders next to Polish and Asian. It sounds silly and preposterous but my God it works. December saw us wowed by beef tartar cut from Polish Hereford, an aromatic oriental broth, and a refined halibut encircled with sage pesto, redcurrants and fresh almonds. Stunning. ul. Klimczaka 1 (Royal Wilanow), restauracjaplato.pl Prosta Historia Informal-looking with its simple white finishes and stripped wooden floors, Prosta fills a ‘catch-all’ role of cafe/ restaurant/bar/meeting point. And it does all the aforementioned very well indeed, thanks to a skilled chef, a good drinks offer and a continental atmosphere that’s all life and good humor. (H4) ul. Francuska 24, prostahistoria.com

EAT! Listings Rozbrat 20 BEST WAWA 2016 “Upscale Casual” Much noise has been made about Rozbrat 20’s bread and wine selection, but their food is also something of a standout. Our trip in December meant twirls of herring pickled in vinegar and herbs and surrounded by a whorl of pond green colors; expertly assembled and boisterously flavored Hungarian foie gras; and a roll of gelatinous pork with ribbons of crispy salsify and a reassuring, fleshy taste.

(F5) ul. Rozbrat 20, rozbrat20.com.pl Secado Casual, intimate interiors complement a menu that’s expanded from its original Latin leanings. Everything we’ve tried here has been close to culinary gold, and that includes the surf & turf, tortillas and the roast beef. (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 66, tel. 608 707 799, secado.com.pl Soul Kitchen Bistro If the previous venue was all slanted

towards low-pitched business conversation then the new one is positively festive in comparison: scuffed brickwork, tall bar stools, a long communal table, etc.

The seasonal menu is a pick-and-mix of small-to-medium plates, including a halibut gravlax, whose delicate taste juxtaposes well against the rougher, earthier kick of the radish, and crayfish presented in a bird’s nest of green beans, fennel and leek. For mains, look for the braised beef. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 18A Stixx It’s easy to distrust a menu with such international diversity, but the kitchen crew really make it come together: the Indian section is particularly outstanding. Then there’s the design, a balance between slick corporate and sexy cosmopolitan: with the Warsaw Spire towering above it outside, it’s the kind of address to take any new arrival who still thinks of Poland as being backward. (A4) Pl. Europejski 4A, tel. 22 340 4040, stixx.pl

Strefa There’s a swan white elegance here, with lots of pristine colors and smart, smooth-talking service. What a refreshing change. Chef Jarosław Walczyk favors sous-vide techniques, and his is a magic, masterful hand – his duck is flawless, and the homemade ice cream with seasonal fruits is quite a follow-up. (C3) ul. Próżna 9, tel. 22 255 0850, restauracjastrefa.pl Tusz Tusz Bistro Hidden round the back of Pl. Bankowy’s epic blue tower, Tusz Tusz is the kind of place Warsaw needs more of: a catch-all solution with a local menu that keeps office workers in mind – it’s fast, available from dawn but doesn’t cut corners when it comes to

Traditional Polish cuisine • Live music • The best wine, regional beer and spirits • Grand Kredens • 20 years full of tradition

Share your opinion!

Al. Jerozolimskie 111, tel. +48 22 629 80 08. mob: +48 697 900 000, kredens@kredens@kredens.com.pl, www.kredens.com.pl

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EAT! Listings basic standards. Full review coming soon.

(C2) Pl. Bankowy 2

Warszawski Sznyt Warsaw’s historic center is rightly glorified for many reasons – its restaurants, however, are not one of them. In fact, there’s probably nowhere in the city with a higher concentration of sub-par efforts. Aiming to redress the balance are Sznyt, an ambitious venue with swank interiors overlooking the Royal Castle, and a kitchen staff headhunted from blue ribbon venues such as Salto and Amaro.

Set over two floors (one focused on Polish cuisine, the other on ‘international’), the pride of the house is afforded to the wood-fired grill. (D2) ul. Senatorska 2, warszawskisznyt.pl Wilczy Głód The jaunty, impish design makes use of cartoonish wolves on the walls and treelike installations strung with bare light bulbs. And look, there’s a furry, mouse resting on a cushion. But if the place is playful and perky, then the cooking is both serious and sincere. Matching international ideas with organic local produce from small family farmsteads, you immediately sense this is a place created out of a love and respect for food. (D5) ul. Wilcza 29A, tel. 22 891 0285

italian Ave Pizza The argument over who serves Warsaw’s best pizza goes right to the wire, but there’s no doubting that Ave Pizza are up there on the leaderboard. Set across a sparse, metropolitan area, this fashionable L-shaped joint comes endorsed by the capital’s notoriously picky Italian community. Order the pillowy calzone and you’ll soon learn why. (E3) ul. Topiel 12, tel.

22 828 8507, avepizza.pl DaCurio Although it looks small and humble DaCurio have made quick work of amassing an enthusiastic following. Credit for

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that rests with the Roman-style pizza that comes sold by the slice. Made using Italian oils and flour, the pizzas here deserve the adulation they’ve received. (E3) ul. Tamka 45A Delizia The sheer proliferation of Italian restaurants lends an element of chance to dining out: cut through the noise by visiting Delizia, a place that’s consistently topped polls ever since it launched in 2010.

Lorenzo’s cooking is upscale Italian with a contemporary twist, and comes presented

by Luca, an ebullient ball of energy who patrols the floor with sparkling good humor. In the hands of these two an unforgettable night comes guaranteed.

Top quality imported products, a dimly-lit romantic atmosphere, a tasteful design and faultless food: no wonder so many rate this as their favorite Italian. (D5) ul.

Hoża 58/60, tel. 22 622 6665, delizia.com.pl Dziurka od Klucza An inviting Italian restaurant in which curious doors sit embedded into the walls, as if waiting to be opened by the keys that hang on the tree outside. Striking a lavender look, the magic of this restaurant is affirmed by its wonderful pasta and intimate style. (E3) ul. Radna 13, tel. 500 150 494, dziurkaodklucza.com.pl

Enoteka This L-shaped space feels completely correct: tall ceilings, big windows, marble floors and an overwhelming sense of light and sun. The mood is good. Food matches the serious wine list and includes a rich topinmabur soup, creamy Agnolloti pasta and a hearty steak. These are not attempts at a kitchen revolution, rather a concentrated focus on a menu that makes sense. (C1) Rynek Nowego Miasta 13/15, enotekapolska.pl Focaccia The Insider’s visit went something like this: wrist-thick octopus with an arc of yellow mousse, conversation stopping beef tenderloin alongside a glistening pool of madeira sauce and then an orange ice cream with caramel and ginger that

soon merged into a big gooey brew of chocolatey mess. The only surprise is there’s no Italian in the kitchen – it appears they don’t need one. This is seriously talented cooking inside an interior that fresh and light and reflective of the food. (D2) ul. Senatorska 13/15, tel. 22 829 6969, focaccia.pl Mąka i Woda Purists applaud an approach that uses a custom-made oven from Naples and imported ingredients such as 00 Caputo flour and DOP certified San Marzano tomatoes. Scrupulously authentic, it’s no wonder that it’s packed to the gunnels every night of the week – even their Facebook page warns of 20-minute waiting times for a table alone. Learning this, some storm off in a huff – they need their heads checked, for this is Warsaw’s best pizza. (D4) ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 91 87 Sexy Duck Marketing themselves as a ‘craft Italian kitchen’, Sexy Duck make a song and dance about artisan this and that while never justifying their own hyperbole. Were they not so keen to tell you otherwise, you’d mistake the food as being something from a mid-market high street chain enterprise. Pl. Konstytucji 3, tel. 22 400 3737 Si From the makers of Secado comes a new downtown venture: Si, a fun Italian stop with homemade pasta, an array of pizza and a hefty choice of cocktails. Geared towards good times, a list of rotating daily offers has done a fair job of drumming up trade. (C3) ul. Marszałkowska 115

japanese & sushi Benihana Fire, flash, show and sizzle: the Benihana experience merges cooking with cabaret with diners sat ringside around teppanyaki grills. These cooking stations are the stage for the Benihana crew to demonstrate their riveting range of nifty knifework and daredevil antics. Outside of the realm of the grill, the sushi is also

EAT! Listings strikes the right spot. (C4) ul. Twarda 2/4, benihanapoland.com Fat Buddha Immense in size, there’s a confident feeling of decadent ostentation: with light kept at bay by vast mulberry-colored drapes, what would otherwise appear as an over-sized hall feels intimate and sensual, dark and delicious. Japanese in spirit, the menu pitches a refined selection of exceptional dishes – elaborate dragon rolls; delicate gyoza; and beef tataki that’s lightly seared and thinly sliced. It’s all perfect.

(D3) ul. Mazowiecka 2/4 Izumi Sushi The original location never ceases to amaze with its sushi, though it’s the addition on Biały Kamień that really gets people talking. Here it’s not just the food that wows, but the interiors: a huge venue whose open plan doubles as an indoor forest – you need to see it to believe it.

(D6) ul. Mokotowska 17 (pl. Zbawiciela), tel.

22 825 7950, izumisushi.eu Kago Sushi A place of such merit that it’s worth bludgeoning your way through the surging crowds of off-duty lawyers and second rate ‘slebs. A side project from the team behind Izumi, portioning here is strict and skimpy, but the precision, attention to detail and flavors are second to none.

Bills creep up fast as you opt for ‘just one more nigiri’, but such is the brilliance that complaints are rare. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki), kagosushi.pl Sakana Sushi Bar Sushi as a fashion statement? That’s what you find in Sakana, a place where the glam and the great of Warsaw peacock around with feathers on display. Ignoring the general vanity and unpleasantness, one can’t help but applaud the sushi – if there was one winner in the sushi wars of the noughties, then Sakana was it. ul. Burakowska 5/7 tel. 22 636 0505, ul. Moliera 4/6, tel. 22 826 5958, & ul.

Wąwozowa 6, lok.10B, tel. 22 498 8899, sakana.pl Sato Gotuje Ochota’s culinary drought is over, and in some style as well. While the plain interiors look bald and boring, the cooking

LEVEL 1 POLISH AND BUSINESS CUISINE

of Satoru Yaegashi is all art and precision: braised duck breast with mustard; fried sardines with roasted sesame seeds; and heaps of homemade udon in warming fish broth. Often outstanding, it’s little wonder that people are arriving in droves from all across town: bookings aren’t mandatory, but they’re definitely advised. ul. Pawińskiego 24 Shoku In local terms, this has to be amongst the most blogged about restaurants of the year thus far. While it actually opened several months back, it’s only now that the place is gathering steam and getting recognized thanks to word-of-mouth.

In truth, it’s not hard to see what the fuss is about: occupying a cool, almost industrial-looking spot not far from the Rising Museum, Shoku offers an excellent menu of Asian-style tapas and small plates inside a buzzy background that’s never short of custom. The tuna steak is recommended. (A4) ul. Karolkowa 30, shoku.pl Sushi Zushi The mania for sushi is in recess, and that’s a good thing – the rogue operators are dead or dying off, and are survived by the best. And make no mistake, Sushi Zushi continue to be one of the No. 1 ex-pat choices. Appreciated by a stunning crowd, the rolls are often bold, creative and always astonishingly fresh.

(D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 420 3373, sushizushi.pl

2 SENATORSKA STREET, WARSAW + 48 22 829 20 50 or + 48 609 608 010 WWW.WARSZAWSKISZNYT.PL FACEBOOK.COM/ WARSZAWSKISZNYTRESTAURANT INSTAGRAM.COM/ WARSZAWSKI_SZNYT

Tomo While Warsaw’s other sushi stops gather cobwebs Tomo packs out each night – that should say enough. With the maki, sushi and sashimi bobbing past on wooden platters, this place aims for fast, maximum turnover without ever making the diner feel second best. (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2344, tomo.pl Uki Uki How much do the locals appreciate Warsaw’s original udon bar? Enough to queue outside the door? That’s right. Dining is a close quarters experience here, but is done so without complaint: that electric pasta maker turns out noodles of such chewy goodness that everyone leaves beaming. (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, tel. 728 827 705, ukiuki.pl

LEVEL 0 MODERN STEAKHOUSE

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EAT! Listings Wabu Sushi becomes a heaven’s gate spiritual experience in Wabu with the evening passing in a blur of beautiful compositions, of silky slithers of fish crowned with expert pinches of this, and little brush strokes of that. That’s all elevated even further by deliciously upscale interiors befitting of the Spire location. (A4) Pl. Europejski 2 (Warsaw Spire), wabu.pl

for the basil panna cotta served with ‘tomato jam’. (E4) ul. Smolna 40, fb.com/ FlorentinWarszawa

jewish

korean

Florentin A quite beautiful, pale-colored dining room that boldly presents the cuisine of modern day Israel. High on North African twists and turns, there’s a creativity at work here that marks Florentin out as one of the most exciting openings in recent times: if in doubt, the veal with harissa, grilled pepper and pear puree is a winning order that deserves full attention. Onto dessert, and make space

Onggi Positive transformations aren’t confined to Ramsay’s Kitchen Nightmares: after a dreadful start characterized by bland, claggy dishes, this Korean restaurant has spun a U-turn that’s left the competition reeling. The menu is daunting in size, but contains wildly interesting finds such as a streaky bacon stir fry, spicy pickled Daikon radish and lotus root simmered in

Tel Aviv Although this multicultural melting pot is best-known for its Israeli street food, it’s the shift towards ‘vegan fine dining’ that has really caught the attention. (D5) ul.

Poznanska 11, restauracjatelaviv.pl

soy sauce. (D2) ul. Moliera 2 Sora Buoyed by a surge in Korean expat numbers, Korena cuisine found itself cresting in 2016. Yet despite the increasingly competitive market, Sora is commonly accepted as the ruler of the roost. The tabletop BBQ sets are an essential order and ideal for the shared bonding experience. It’s even better with copious quantities of Makkoli wine. (A4) ul. Wronia 45

latin & spanish Casa Pablo “We give Spanish food a new twist,” declares chef Gonzalo de Salas, which explains why, in between pungent cheeses and acorn-fed Bellota ham, we find ourselves demolishing a variety of dishes that buck all notions of tradition:

AUTHENTIC POLISH CUISINE

Krakowskie Przedmieście 64 tel. +48 22 826 4770 email. info@delicjapolska.pl www.delicjapolska.pl

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EAT! Listings as a starter the beetroot-marinated salmon served with wasabi emulsion is a fine example of this. With de Salas performing balletic tricks in the kitchen, Casa Pablo presents a masterful menu that ripples with adventure. (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5A, tel. 22 324 5781, casapablo.pl

interaction, the ambiance and quality belies the corporate anonymity of the location. Though the gazapcho is first class it’s bettered by the patatas bravos: fried potatoes in a ballsy tomato sauce.

(A4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 251 1310, tapasbar.pl

Mojo Picon Smart and atmospheric yet still pleasingly casual, the early feedback has been healthy. Specializing in Hispanic cuisine, especially that of the Canary Islands, specific strengths include a broad selection of Spanish wines, artfully composed tapas and a paella for the purists. A smaller operation the size of a mouse hole operates on Poznanska. ul. Prosta 53, mojopicon.pl

Restaurante Bunuel Spanish-owned Bunuel has left many in raptures. Simple interiors focus attention on the food, which in this case involves a crisp gazpacho that gets you missing summer, and grilled meats that leave many in a swoon. (H4) ul. Walecznych 61, tel. 798 659 554, bunuel-restauracja.com

Tapas Gastrobar The popular practice is to order so many plates and bottles that the table becomes a Magic Eye of kaleidoscope patterns.

A great place for sharing and general

mexican Dos Tacos Who doesn’t like asking for something that’s ‘under the counter’. In the case of Dos Tacos, doing so means inquiring

about their range of ‘salsa clandestinas’: extra hot sauces designed for reckless thrill-seekers. But the true secret weapon at Dos Tacos is Isabel Balderas, a Mexican chef that has mastered the bright, bold tastes of her native country. This cuisine has enjoyed a breakout year in Warsaw, but while the millennials clamor over new food trucks and funky little start-ups, Dos Tacos is a timely reminder that the old guard sometimes know best. (D4) ul.

Jasna 22, tel. 22 243 4618, dostacos.pl El Barrio Famed for his long association with El Popo, chef Angel Aceves Vivanco has teamed up with Lourdes Estrada to create a cheerful-looking spot on the fringe of New Town. Ringing with colorful patterns and mosaics, the effect – like the food itself – is simple but reassuringly lively.

On the Insider’s visit, that meant a hefty chicken burrito given a viper’s bite thanks to a chili habanero salsa – but inconsistencies are plentiful and need to be

NEW MENU

Modern take on Italian cuisine

tel.: +48 22 829 69 69 ul. Senatorska 13/15, Warsaw/Old Town restauracja@focaccia.pl, fb.com/restauracjafocaccia www.focaccia.pl

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EAT! Listings resolved – fast! (C1) ul. Długa 6, elbarrio.pl Gringo Bar A Mexican wave is upon us, and high time too. After years of suffering frozen ingredients, timid flavors and daft Mariachi music to persuade us it’s all authentic, a raft of new cut-price eateries are showing the rest how it’s done.

Cooked and folded by fist bumping lads in back-to-front caps and baggy t-shirts, the food at Gringo is fiery, fresh and full of zing. There are detractors who claim this is a Polonized version of this cuisine, but the informal Gringo remains one of the market leaders. (E9) ul. Odolańska 15, tel.

22 848 9523, gringobar.pl La Sirena Creamy guacamole the color of Kermit; cocktails that are both vicious and delicious; and drunken beans full of heart and vim. But La Sirena gets even better, particularly with the short ribs burrito and a readjusted ‘almost death

salsa’ that’s learned to say POW. Add to this a machete-laden interior that draws inspiration from the ultra-violent films of Danny Trejo, and you understand why this tiny, backstreet cantina has become the talk of the town. At no point in its history has Warsaw enjoyed better Mexican food.

(D5) ul. Piękna 54 Loco Mexicana Some ideas just never make it past the concept stage: take Loco Mexicana, a place that seeks to exploit New Warsaw’s double pronged mania for craft beer and Mexican food. From the former, they’ve gone for a mundane line-up that falls way short of the boundary-pushing selections of Warsaw’s other tap bars. On the food front, you’re better off picking up some frozen ingredients and packet tortillas from your local store – the results are likely to be better. Enjoy that in a cheap-looking, slapdash interior that feels about twenty five years out-of-date. (D7) ul.

Marszałkowska 17

Restaurant & Pastry Shop Warsaw, Żurawia 47/49, open: 7.00 - 22.00 reservations: tel. +48 (22) 621 82 68 Pastry Shop Warsaw, Pl. Grzybowski 2, open: 9.00 - 20.00 Warsaw, Felińskiego 52, open: 9.00 - 20.00

smakiwarszawy.pl

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Maria Kolendra The most likable trend of the past year?

That’ll be Warsaw’s growing mania for Mexican food. Set in a small ‘pavilion’ building out in the Służew boonies, such is the authenticity that its loyal band of devotees see nothing wrong in traipsing across the city for a taste of Luis and Armando’s tacos and burritos. ul.

Puławska 246 Spoco Loco It begins with a bead of sweat. Then a couple of tears. Then the real pain starts and doesn’t retract until you’ve rolled on the floor and died for twenty minutes. Spoco Loco’s No. 7 sauce is no laughing matter, and should be treated with respect. But this tiny eatery (it’s essentially one bench) is not founded on gimmicks. The burritos and quesadillas are decent in the comfort food kind of way, and ably supported by a choice of milder sauces that don’t require Red Cross treatment. (H4) ul. Francuska 8

EAT! Listings Urban Burritos It’s here, in this unassuming subterranean world, that people gather for what is being hyped as Warsaw’s top burrito.

Offering fillings of pork, beef, chicken and Portobello mushroom, wraps come expertly constructed and served with salsas that sing with gusto. Set within shouting distance of the US Embassy, peak times see Urban Burritos fill to the seams with America’s finest. (D6) ul.

Piękna 22, urbanburritos.pl

middle eastern Le Cedre With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoalgrilled lamb chops. (E1) Al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166, lecedre.pl

Le Cedre 84 Le Cedre just keep on getting it right.

Authenticity is key in this chainlette (well, there’s another across the river), as you’ll discover when talking to Tony, the Lebanese owner. To see the diversity of this cuisine, order the balbaak (six cold starters) or the byblos (six hot).

And food aside, it’s the atmosphere that carries them that extra yard: the whole philosophy of this cuisine is to share and share alike, making it a uniquely engaging experience when dining with friends.

(B3) Al. Solidarności 84, tel. 22 618 8999, lecedre.pl Le Cedre Lounge Furnished in voluptuous Middle Eastern style, the latest subsidiary of the Le Cedre empire bursts with fancy sheesha pipes, extravagant rugs and shimmery satin drapes. It’s a look that’s fun, familiar, intimate and warm. Less encyclopedic than that of its two sister ventures, Le Cedre Lounge has a slimmer menu

that introduces several new tastes to fans of Lebanese cuisine. Helplessly more-ish, it’s food that’s in line with the vibey atmosphere and casual air. (C4) ul.

Grzybowska 5A, lecedre.pl Samira There was something a little seedy about Samira’s old location, but that’s all forgotten in their new digs on Powsińska. Find this great Lebanese supermarket filling a dual role as an authentic restaurant serving authentic dishes such as kafta and shawarma. ul. Powsińska 64a, tel. 22 825 3363, samira.pl Shuk Located behind Hala Banacha in this gradually blooming district of Warsaw, SHUK’s certainly worth the tram ride if you’re not a native Ochotian. An offshoot of the acclaimed Mezze, highlights on our visit included a well-seasoned Arabic soup with lentils and spinach followed by a skillet of fried oyster mushrooms cooked with onions and served alongside harissa topped with rose petals. You’re looking at quite a special place that realigns your mojo on an ashen Warsaw day. ul. Grójecka 127 Sokotra Casting a warm, steamy glow over this corner of Wilcza, Sokotra reveals itself as a well-designed nook with a rough, urban edge: telegraph poles, bare bulbs and exposed lumps of concrete. Yemeni dishes are available though it’s the Indian food that shines – the Madras is intense, pungent and suitably fiery. (D5) ul. Wilcza 27, tel. 22 270 2766, sokotra.pl

YOU’VE TRIED ALL THE REST, NOW TRY THE BEST!

Newly Opened!

Le Cedre Lounge Grzybowska 5A Tel 22 299 7299

Le Cedre 61

(opposite the zoo) Al. Solidarności 61, Praga Tel 22 670 1166

polish

Ale Gloria Who said romance was dead? Here wedding white colors are fused with a strawberry motif inside this gourmet fave.

Keeping patrons returning are aromatic dishes with a contemporary twist – try the duck in rose sauce. (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7080, alegloria.pl

Le Cedre 84

(opposite the court) Al. Solidarności 84 Tel 22 618 8999

www.lecedre.pl warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings Bar Gdański Closed in spring, a brief but thorough refit conducted by the new owner has given this milk bar a late lease of life.

Gone are the plastic plants, putrid smells and that slow feeling of death, replaced instead by a fresher look in keeping with the times. Despite this, the historic core has been retained including the daffodil colors and original floor tiles. How’s the food? Cheap. That’s probably the kindest thing you can say about it. Despite that, Gdański feels like an essential part of the community. (B1) ul. Andersa 33, fb.com/

bargdanskimuranow

tel. 22 558 6701, belvedere.com.pl

Belvedere Łazienki Królewskie Set in an imperial age glass orangery, it’s festooned with intricate latticework and botanical exotica. The updated interiors are the work of acclaimed set designer Boris Kudlicka, and lend a fresh, contemporary tone that goes hand in hand with the menu. But behind the gels and emulsions and pretty little swirls, this is cooking of substantial depth; it’s cooking that takes you to the very soul of Polish nature. ul. Agrykoli 1,

Bez Gwiazdek Hide the white tablecloth! One of the more discernible trends of 2016 saw chefs attempt to replicate fine dining standards but in casual surrounds. Few are more qualified to do so than Robert Trzópek, a man whose résumé includes experience gained in Noma and El Bulli. Seeking to ‘reinterpret forgotten Polish cuisine’, his tasting menu at Bez Gwiazdek leaves no doubt why local food fans repeat his name with reverence and awe. For this restaurant, 2017 promises to get even bigger. (E3) ul. Wiślana 8, bezgwiazdek. com.pl Czerwony Wieprz (Red Hog) An amusing restaurant that looks back at communism through a rose-tinted lens.

Under the glowering gaze of commie tyrants, staff dressed like obedient members of the party’s Youth League deliver hefty dishes from a cheeky menu that is in itself a collector’s item. Check the celebrity wall to see who else has visited. (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 22 850 3144, czerwonywieprz.pl

Delicja Polska Looking stately (pink bows, gilt touches and immaculate linen) but never stuffy, Delicja have a modern Polish menu that includes sous-vide salmon marinated in beetroot leaves, then topped with horseradish foam and dill emulsion. Brilliant.

But then so was everything else we tried, including the exquisite seasoned roast beef. (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 64, tel. 22 826 4770, delicjapolska.pl Dom Polski Almost like it was designed for the manor born, Dom Polski has the rarefied atmosphere of a country retreat: bow-tied staff who click their heels, decorative antiques and a menu that’s a sumptuous anthology of posh Polish cooking. When you need to give visitors a sense of classic Warsaw, Dom Polski is the first out of the hat. (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 2432, restauracjadompolski.pl Dom Polski Belwederska Accessed via curling pathways and

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EAT! Listings bursting shrubs this restaurant conjures images of an aristocrat’s manor. The air of privilege matches a menu that’s rich in fanciful classics such as their signature goose. Elegant and exquisite, consider it your default choice for a taste of true Poland. (F8) ul. Belwederska 18A, tel. 22 840 5060, restauracjadompolski.pl Elixir by Dom Wódki There are some who call the food here ‘deconstructed Polish’. In actuality, ‘reconstructed’ would be closer to the mark. The chef has taken local classics and redrafted the recipes with the swoosh of a contemporary pen. The outcome is a pleasure from start to finish: a life affirming żurek, a tartar that could fulfill ambassadorial duties for Poland, and a handsome beef tenderloin sprinkled with crispy potato shavings.

Thoughtful pairings with lesser-known, boutique vodkas add another dimension that serves to complete this pleasing, patriotic adventure. (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl Folk Gospoda If you missed the last train to Zakopane, then a night in Folk Gospoda is the next best thing. Kitted out like a typical tavern in the Tatras, it’s a good-humored celebration of mountain-slope traditions: heaps of meat and lard with plenty of vodka and song in between. (B3) ul. Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605, folkgospoda.pl

Jaś & Małgosia Insouciant one moment, your best friend the next, the staff at Jaś & Małgosia show the two faces of Polish service brilliantly.

Reactivated a couple of years ago, this gem has a story dating back to the 60s, and a great atmosphere primed for simple food and local drinks. (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 57, tel. 502 033 711 Kafe Zielony Niedzwiedź The Green Bear has turned into the mothership for all things relating to slow food: if in doubt, check the menu, an ode to provenance that comes complete with detailed biographies of their suppliers.

Using creative techniques, this restaurant modernizes Polish food and rolls it out inside a stylish building popular with people who look like they might well be famous. (E4) ul. Smolna 4, tel. 731 996 006, kafezn.pl Kieliszki na Próżnej You’ll find Kieliszki na Próżnej, the latest restaurant to mark the rehabilitation of Próżna, so named after the 1,116 wineglasses that hang tantalizingly over the bar. As an anchor feature the suspended glassware is arresting, and equaled only by a long stretch of wall art doodled by Mariusz Tarkawian. The food matches up to the interiors, with a modern Polish menu that – on our visit – involved a thick, brilliantly spreadable foie gras pate, a thick slab of brawn and a delicate piece

of moist Baltic cod. It’s pure seasonal comfort. (C3) ul. Próżna 12, tel. 501 764 674, kieliszkinaproznej.pl Mała Polana Smaków BEST WAWA 2016 “Modern Polish” Put simply, it works on every level: from the service to the space – outside, a terrace featuring upcycled crates overlooking Morskie Oko, and on the inside, a cute little room with woodsy bits and big glass jars of mystery ingredients. It’s casual, but still fit for more serious roles: e.g. girlfriend night. And the food: exceptional.

Lots of seasonally changing choices that on our visit meant salmon sausage matched with beetroot and horseradish sauce along with pinches of lavender and fennel. (F9) ul. Belwederska 13/44, tel. 22 400 8048, polanasmakow.pl Opasły Tom Sneaked off a lively side street, guests duck down into a chain of two narrow-ish chambers that, whilst not exactly casual, feel comfortable and familiar. Reliant on the freshest local ingredients around, this restaurant’s strategy places an onus on seasonality whilst remaining fiercely creative. (E4) ul. Foksal 17, kregliccy.pl Papu Evoking the spirit of a gentleman’s manor, Papu looks every inch the classic Polish restaurant. Reliant on regional produce from mom & pop farmsteads, chef Bartek

PRESENTING THE MOST BEAUTIFUL RESTAURANT IN POLAND

Al. Ujazdowskie 24, tel. 22 629 2312, www.podgigantami.pl

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EAT! Listings Kędra’s menu does a gold carat job of enhancing old-fashioned recipes through the use of modern techniques. (D9) al.

Niepodległości 132/136, tel. 22 856 7788, restauracjapapu.pl Podwale Piwna Kompania Prowling mountain bands generate a beer hall atmosphere, while the courtyard garden – designed to replicate a Mitteleuropa square – is one of the best you’ll find. But the obscene portions can’t mask what is pretty poor food. Go there for the experience, if nothing else. (D2) ul.

Podwale 25, tel. 22 635 6314, podwale25.pl Prasowy Delicate diners turn their back on milk bars, yet this canteen-style phenomenon, with its history rooted in communism, has enjoyed a remarkable renaissance and a freshly found popularity with a new generation. Sure, the food is an acquired taste and best described using words like ‘basic’, ‘bland’ and ‘honest’, but Prasowy gets our vote for a cool design that’s seen the 1954 interiors sensitively updated.

(E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16

Restauracja Pod Gigantami All pomp and splendor, huge portraits of

monarchs in ermine stare down from the walls; pristine parquet floors gently creak underfoot; from another chamber, the sound of clinking glasses whispers through the air. Yet as much as the interior makes an impact it fails to steal the show. That belongs to Paweł Zieliński, a chef whose biography includes a stint at the Michelin starred L’Ecrivain in Dublin. Now back in Poland, his menu is a patriotic proclamation of all that is good.

It’s here the Insider enjoyed its favorite żurek of 2016. (E5) Al. Ujadowskie 24, tel.

22 629 2312, podgigantami.pl Restauracja Polska “Różana” The rarified atmosphere of Różana is a pleasure indeed. Close to the frontline of Mokotów / Śródmieście, you’d never guess the proximity of the center. Seated in their garden, one feels removed from the city – a fountain burbles quietly in the background, starlings hop around the trees. From the inside, one hears the distant tinkle of the house pianist. Just being here is a thrill in itself, and the food is a Polish dining extravaganza served from the top table: farmhouse duck, saddle of venison, etc. (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 22 848 1225, restauracjarozana.com.pl Słoik Jarheads will love Słoik, a place lined with glass jars brimming with colorful ingredients and bright preserves. Find natural Polish produce and traditional-

Loft is the perfect place to pause for a moment for a coffee, to meet with friends for lunch or a late dinner – most of all, it’s a chance to escape the city bustle while remaining in the heart of Warsaw. ul. Złota 11 tel. 668 016 964 restauracjaloft.pl

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sounding dishes treated with a careful and contemporary hand. The approach pits modernist against classic, and the winner is, well, you. This is traditional Polish food updated for the discerning, latter day palate – and it’s really quite something. (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 600 396 688, restauracjasloik.pl Solec 44 Solec 44 does nothing if not challenge gastronomic norms. Found on the upper floor of a shabby Communist pavilion, the versatility of this place makes it great to hang out with friends over beer and board games: it’s not often you find faces from the TV in the same room as student types, but that’s the kind of inclusive atmosphere here. The biggest draw though is the chef, Aleksander Baron. Combing the farms and forests of Poland for ingredients, his obsession with old baroque recipes, nose-to-tail cooking and forgotten fermentation processes is inspiring to all who adore cooking. (F4) ul. Solec 44, tel. 798 363 996, solec.waw.pl Stary Dom A classic restaurant in style and history: back in the day it was a favorite haunt of jockeys and race goers from the horse track nearby. Pre-war recipes form the basis of the menu, with the team using seasonal produce and the latest technology to bring out its best.

EAT! Listings ul. Puławska 104/106, tel. 22 646 4208, restauracjastarydom.pl U Fukiera New arrivals looking to get a grasp of local cuisine have many options in varying price brackets. U Fukiera is definitely in the big spend category, but visitors come away with a common sense of wonderment. That’s largely due to enchanting interiors that have guests exploring twinkling chambers that unravel like a fairytale. Set in a 500 year old townhouse, the beautiful backdrop is accompanied by a grand menu of duck, venison, veal and lamb. (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 27 (Old Town Market Square), tel. 22 831 1013, ufukiera.pl

Zapiecek Seven Warsaw locales, with our favorite found in the vaulted passages of Świętojańska. The menu is highly traditional, with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’. It’s for the pierogi though for which they’re famous; find approx. fifty types delivered by servers dressed like saucy country maids. Locations inc. ul.

Nowy Świat 64, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska 13, tel. 22 635 61 09, & ul. Wańkowicza 1, open 11:00-22:00, CH Arkadia, zapiecek.eu

Warszawski Sen By Mateusz Gessler A quite stunning restaurant dominated by dark geometric patterns and the installations and ideas of guerilla artist Tomasz Górnicki. Once you’ve caught your breath and snapped off a few pics for your Instagram, settle in for a menu that gives Polish ingredients a highly contemporary treatment. If you thought Hala Koszyki was buzzing, then this edgy space is perhaps its biggest buzz of all. ul.

Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki), mateuszgessler.com.pl Zielnik A quiet Mokotów side street is the setting for this little secret. In it, flowers, lots of them, and a warming wood interior just right for winter. In summer, head instead to their glorious garden across the street in the park: adding a sophisticated twist to the holy grill, the skewered lamb is to die for. (D10) ul. Odyńca 15, tel. 22 844 3500, restauracjazielnik.pl

scandinavian Nabo The décor is, we’re told, typical Danish cafe – bold open windows, simple lines, high shelves filled with books and games on the table. But what is Danish food? There’s Old Danish on the menu: meatballs and open face sandwiches

with meat and fish in various textural configurations and then there’s New Danish: an emerging trend towards fresh, seasonal food (no microwave oven at Nabo), with locally sourced and innovatively concocted ingredients. ul.

Zakręt 8, tel. 22 842 0256, nabocafe.pl

seafood Funky Fish Bar Though better known as one of Warsaw’s top pub crawls, there’s more to Nowogrodzka street than just raw-looking tap bars. The latest addition to its budding gastro offer is Funky, a bright and casual spot where fish is the forte. Despite this, find them open from early serving their unique interpretation of the Great British breakfast. (D5) ul.

Nowogrodzka 25, restbarfunkyfish.com Lokal na Rybę Seafood doesn’t play a particularly distinguished role in Warsaw’s culinary history, so the opening of a good fish restaurant tends to get the locals talking. But Lokal isn’t just good, it goes several steps beyond. Open just three days a week (Thu-Sat, evenings only), the rotating menu presents a handful of daily choices against a simple, no pretense interior that’s often packed solid – reservations

w

The award-winning Enoteka Polska welcomes guests to the heart of Warsaw’s historic New Town. A perfect combo of restaurant, wine bar and wine store, aside from offering excellent Italian cuisine, we are a renowned importer with a portfolio of prestigious wine labels from across Europe. Our direct import policy allows guests to enjoy outstanding value for money.

Rynek Nowego Miasta 13/15, enotekapolska.pl tel. 882 048 012 warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings come recommended, as do the mussel dishes. (D9) ul. Kwiatowa 1/3/4, fb.com/ lokalnarybe U Rysia Devoid of frills bar a glowing neon sign and a brooding mural of Jesus, it looks like a Polish fish restaurant should – basic but with an undercurrent of bustle that keeps the mood bright. It tastes like the real thing as well. Sourcing their catch from the freshwater lakes of northern Poland, the offer is divided into fish that have been smoked, steamed, fried or baked. Check out the perch ‘chips’ fried in batter. (C4) ul. Marszałkowska 140 (enter from ul. Rysia), urysia.com.pl

specialty food shops Bazar Olkuska Once a sad little side street, Olkuska has evolved to become just about the worst kept secret in Warsaw. Home to the city’s top eco-market, trips here end with shopping bags filled with French cheeses, Italian hams, Hungarian sausages and fresh fruit and veg. (E10) ul. Olkuska 12 Befsztyk The Prokopowicz family has come a long way since launching Befsztyk in 1994.

Top restaurants, celebs and ex-pats are listed as clients, and all agree that this operation is indisputably ‘top of the chops’.

Find steaks seasoned for three weeks, gluten-free smoked meats, Merino lamb, BBQ kits and so much more. Home delivery, internet ordering and Englishspeaking staff round out this legend. many locations, befsztyk.pl British Shop British food and beverages inc. cider, bacon, sausages, gluten free ready meals, confectionary etc. Run by the same team who once operated Fish & Chips on Koszykowa, the offer has now expanded to cover non-food items like Royal Wedding souvenirs, England football paraphernalia etc. (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 8, tel. 692 240 804 The Crazy Butcher Grzegorz Kwapniewski, better known as

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‘Warsaw’s celebrity butcher’, has a new store in town, that being a corner unit in Hala Koszyki. Named by chefs across town as their principal source of meat, Kwapniewski’s offer includes Polish Red Angus, long-seasoned, marbled beef, not to mention veal, lamb, poultry and cured meats from small scale producers. ul.

Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki) Dobrze Co-op The Dobrze Food Co-op aims to ‘widen access to healthy, seasonal food’ while also supporting sustainable agriculture.

Founded in summer, 2014, the project collaborates with over 20 farms and local businesses and sells fresh vegetables and fruit alongside cereals, dried goods and other bits and pieces. ul. Wilcza 29A & ul. Andersa 27, dobrze. waw.pl Forteca Kregliccy Spot the stars of Warsaw’s restaurant scene perusing the stalls at this weekly farmers’ market. Held each Wednesday, look for Pan Ziółko, Poland’s first celebrity farmer (!), Portobello’s from the country’s only organic mushroom farm and the magical yogurts from Mleczna Droga Manufaktura Serów. ul. Zakroczymska 12, kregliccy.eu/forteca Kosher Shop Snuck to the side of the synagogue, stock up on Kosher produce from the friendly store, before hitting up the falafel tent outside for, aside from the obvious, kosher ice cream. (C4) ul. Twarda 6 Kuchnie Świata The first stop for most ex-pats, with an offer that includes food and drinks from across the globe. The choice is vast but mainly involves tinned and packaged products. Internet ordering now also available. Various locations, kuchnieswiata.com.pl Mojo Picon Mojo Picon specializes in vending Spanish groceries, expressly the produce of the Canary Islands. A creditable charcuterie section is enhanced by an array of cheese, wine and jarred exotica.

(D5) ul. Poznańska 3, mojopicon.pl Ostra Kuchnia A superb internet shop retailing quite

literally the hottest sauces known to man: brands include Blair’s, Dave’s, El Yucateco, Mad Dog, Melinda’s and many more besides. Also sell jalapenos, chili peppers, salsas and pastes. Polish-only website, but easy to navigate and superb customer service. ostrakuchnia.pl Samira Now in bigger and better premises, this Lebanese supermarket offers a comprehensive rundown of imported goods that ranges from spices, preserves and rubs to nuts, olives, teas and soft drinks. ul. Powsińska 64A, tel. 22 825 3363, samira.pl Targ Śniadaniowy The idea is a bit different as it is out in the open air, on the grass, so good weather is a must. Part healthy food market, part breakfast picnic, part educational space, part chance to get your two wheeler fixed but above all, an idyllic way to spend a Saturday morning in a beautiful part of town. Now also present in three other locations: check their web for details. Al. Wojska Polskiego, tel. 508 121 891 Trawa A tight little store whose surprisingly copious food offer (which includes fresh fruit and veg from local markets) is complemented by all kinds of natural unguents, balms, oils and suchlike including those from the celebrated Lavera brand. Highly recommended. Pl. Grzybowski 10

steak houses

Beef n’ Pepper A social space that encourages friends to gather and make merry over big meaty courses. Served on heavy tree stump plates, steaks here use Polish Angus aged for a 28-day period. If you’re into the concept of sharing with your fellow man, then the Beef n’Pepper plate offers a pile of everything: wings, ribs, steak.

(C5) ul. Nowogrodzka 47A, tel. 785 025 025, beefandpepper.pl

NEW SEASONAL MENU

Ul. Pańska 85 tel. 512 671 756, 22 253 30 30 panska85.com.pl

EAT! Listings Butchery & Wine The Sarf London-born Bertha oven has revolutionized the way steak is cooked, retaining moisture in a way no-one thought possible. Expect robust pieces of animal full of big, brawny tastes, but there’s so much more than just meat: starters involve a sea bass ceviche that pings with citrusy flavor not to mention more-ish pork crackling that pop like fire bangers in the mouth. A place of energy and ambition, it’s a great mix of both new and classic. Bookings advised. (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 502 3118, butcheryandwine.pl Downtown Restaurant There’s now a few candidates for Warsaw’s best steak, and Downtown have certainly upped the erm, stakes, with their new menu. Yes, the doors of Downtown are a gateway to heaven – particularly true if, like us, your vision of heaven is a rich green field filled with fat, juicy cows.

But don’t for one moment assume the offer ends with cows. (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental Hotel, level 2), tel. 22 328 8745 Ed Red Warszawa can tell they’re serious about their meat just by looking at the starters: big, juicy marrow bones, mountain oysters, blood sausage and calf’s brain. The steaks are the calling card though, and here you’ll find them dry aged and consumed with the aid of hunting knives. The desserts seem a lumpy afterthought, but they get enough right elsewhere (even decent craft beer at the bar) to keep that little more than a mild annoyance. Pl. Mirowski 1 Hoża Wine and steak: it sounds so simple, but Hoża have taken two simple pleasures to another level. It’s an ebullient space with service right out of charm school, and a kitchen team with a real knowledge of cows. A red-blooded affair, the menu is a steak sensation and well paired with a handpicked wine list. (D5) ul. Hoża 25A, tel.

603 778 275, hoza.warszawa.pl Merliniego 5 A classic looking steakhouse that swirls in shadow, brickwork and elegant touches, it’s a place to immerse yourself in an atmosphere that’s all surreptitious conversation and distant clinking glasses.

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The steaks are out-of-this world, with USDA prime beef from New York’s legendary Ottomanelli & Sons and Scottish beef from London’s Smithfield Market. On our last visit we splurged on the Grade 9+ wagyu ‘kobe’ rib-eye and found ourselves eating the steak of a lifetime. (E10) ul. Merliniego 5, tel. 22 646 0810, merliniego5.pl

thai San Thai The most successful business model pioneered in recent years? That’s the work of Thaisty, a bright, cheerful spot with a ‘street style’ and moderate prices – queues, at times, stretch out the door.

In many ways, San Thai can be accused of emulating that blueprint: informal, airy surrounds; fair price points; and a menu that covers enough bases while never becoming overwhelming. But this is more than a mere copycat, and so far San Thai have found themselves commended for their fiery recipes and diverse range of dishes. A half-decent wine selection adds to the impression that this street is taking off as something of a scene. (C3) ul. Próżna 10, restauracjasanthai.pl

Bankowy 4, tel. 730 000 024, thaisty.pl Why Thai A calming, almost holistic interior sets the tone for a meal dominated by the rich and aromatic tastes of Thailand. For a lively, spicy start begin with a mango and cashew salad, before moving forward and onto their celebrated curries. Imported chefs keep the flavors authentic, with the pad Thai being something of a house favorite. (E5) ul. Wiejska 13, tel. 22 625 7698, whythai.pl

vegan & wholefood Bar Stołeczny So far we’ve seen Warsaw’s vegan scene embrace Mexican cuisine, Italian, Japanese, Thai and lord knows what else. Stołeczny’s kitchen chooses to keep things closer to home, instead sourcing inspiration from the milk bars of yore.

It’s a simple selection of pancakes and pierogi here, but one that’s also simply done well. Tuck in inside a basic interior with a green gingham motif – sometimes, you don’t need much else. (D5) ul.

Poznańska 7, fb.com/barstoleczny

Thai Thai In terms of design it’s little short of perfect: gold vaulted interiors lend a muted glow to a largely black on black space while serene looking Buddha’s peer on the diners below. As for the food, that’s one big success story with plenty of lively flavors and dynamic colors. The Tom Yang Kung, a deeply nourishing fish broth that awakens the senses with a sharp, spicy jolt, is a must! (C2) Pl. Teatralny 3, tel. 601 818 283, thaithai.pl Thaisty The coup here has been the recruitment of Chanunkan Duangkumma, Warsaw’s favorite Thai chef. The menu has street food inspirations and also includes several recipes passed down Duangkumma’s family line: consider the BBQ beef skewers essential. Vivid colors and a busy open kitchen lend the place a happy buzz that lasts through the day. (C2) Pl.

Edamame Vegan Sushi Sushi without its star ingredient sounds ridiculous, but this vegan sushi joint manages to out-manoeuver its traditional competitors by replacing below-par fish with fresh, vegetarian produce: sugar snap peas, radish, carrots, asparagus, etc. The results are both magical and addictive, and leave you wondering if vegan sushi stands to be Warsaw’s next trend. (D5) ul. Wilcza 11, edamame.pl Falafel Bejrut Light, bright and buzzing with custom, this cheerful venture has a small scattering of seating and an expanded menu whose talking point is award-winning falafel. The hummus, too, is pretty amazing. (B2) ul. Nowolipki 15 Falafelove Cramped, sweaty and uncomfortable, Falafelove’s customers choose to overlook the aesthetic shortcomings for one very special reason: this is falafel that

EAT! Listings sets a new benchmark. Recommended is the spicy wrap, comprising of ‘red falafel’, humus, harissa, sundried tomatoes and tahini. If there’s space, join the others on the terrace outside. (C2) ul. Senatorska 40 Krowazywa Packed with girls wearing skating clothes and moon boots, this burgery makes a big boast that their whole menu is 100% plant-based and their food compiled using ‘the best, freshest, unprocessed and full-balanced ingredients.’ The Warzywex, a burger composed of marinated and grilled slices of local veg, is an absolute winner. (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 27/35, tel.

881 777 894 ul. Hoża 29/31, krowarzywa.pl ul. Hoża 29/31, krowarzywa.pl Lokal Vegan Bistro Aside from a small menu consisting of more standard vegan offers, Lokal keep Homer Simpson characters in mind with regular guest slots for street food that’s given a full vegan makeover. Offhand, that’s meant vegan kebabs, cheesesteaks, burgers and zapiekanka, all of which have been pretty damn good. (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, 517 615 122 Momencik Vegan burritos may sound wrong, but at Momencik they’re every bit as good as anything you’ll be used to. The only difference is that you won’t leave feeling like you’ve eaten a sack of socks: on the contrary, it’s got all the perky flavor that Mexican food should have, but none of the unpleasant post-meal bloaty bubbles.

And it’s cheap! Diners fork out less than zł. 22 for a lunch deal that includes homemade lemonade, a burrito and soup of the day: it’s your lucky day if that happens to be their tomato soup. (D5) ul.

Poznańska 16 Organitheka Seasonal, fresh, organic: Organitheka is all these and more. Raw, plant-based meals are their principal claim to fame, though these are accompanied by a selection of cold pressed juices, raw chia desserts, coconut yogurts and other surprises: the tiny dining room belies the depth of choice and flavor. (C4) ul. Twarda 1 Wars i Sawa w Nowym With its wide spaces, high ceilings and echoing sense of clatter, there’s

something of a canteen spirit to Wars i Sawa. Occupying a chunk of the Nowy Teatr, it gets particularly busy after performances – and rightly so. Fresh, seasonal and well-presented, the food here is vegan, healthy and unerringly popular. The vege-burger sounds prosaic but is actually something of a star turn.

(E9) ul. Madalińskiego 10/16 Wegemama Inspired by the tastes of Asia, Wegemama gives vegan cooking a zippy twist with their spin on such classics as laksa soup and pad Thai. Overseen by Piotr and Grzegorz, two chefs with a proven history in vegan cooking, the kitchen has so far operated at full capacity to deal with the demand. The desserts – made using natural extracts and superfoods – have made a particular impact on Wegemama’s expanding fanbase. (D6) ul.

Marszałkowska 28, wegemama.com Weranda Bistro Warmly decorated with shrubbery and dangling paper decoys, Weranda’s design is thoughtful enough to be in equilibrium with the wider Koszyki setting, yet sufficiently distinct to stand apart from the crowd. Kudos, as well, to the food.

Celebrated for their salads, don’t expect to be pecking on morsels of rabbit food – instead, pepare for huge, leafy affairs assembled to look complex and intriguing. Recommended is the Croatian salad which rrives ensconced inside jumbo leaves of lettuce and cascading with mango, shrimps, goat cheese and much more besides. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki), weranda.pl

‘Simplicity, elegance and atmosphere’

Cafe • Wine Bar • Restaurant • Whisky Bar • Wine Cellar ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 515 037 001 www.hoza.warszawa.pl www.facebook.com/hoza25 Open 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-21:00

vietnamese Oh My Pho A busy, family-run joint, OMP’s specific claim to fame is what many are terming the best and most authentic pho in the ward. Steamy and aromatic, this is pho as it should be: full of big herby thwacks, ribboning noodles, and soft strips of meat in a clear, restorative stock. Often cited as being the ‘soul of the nation’, just a few noisy slurps are all that’s needed to corroborate the life-affirming goodness of this beautiful broth... (D5) ul. Wilcza 32, fb.com/ohmyphowilcza warsawinsider.pl

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DRINK!

PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

GEORGIA ON MY MIND

Designed to act as a casual extension of the neighboring Rusiko restaurant, this wine bar showcases Warsaw’s biggest selection of Georgian wine inside an interior that feels intimate, jazzy and highly atmospheric. Elaborate rugs, deep rouge in color, hang from tall sapphire walls, while impossibly high ceilings do much to generate a swirl of soft, muffled sound. A place of good mood and organic hospitality, it’s no surprise to learn that the bitey menu is an ample reflection of Rusiko’s awardwinning reputation. Leaving, it’s with that sense of having uncovered a special little secret.

Rusiko Wine Bar Al. Ujazdowskie 22

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CZECH MATE

Fancy a pint of maple bacon coffee porter? Err, no. As welcome as Poland’s beer revolution has been, there are times you just want an honest, clean, normal lager. Good job, in that case, that a growing number of Czech pubs are serving precisely that...

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PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

Drink! Czech Beer Scene

BOHEMIA Al. Jana Pawła II 23, bohemiarestaurant.pl You have to credit them for trying something different, but by going for a slick, corpo style Bohemia have completely missed ‘the essence of Czechia’.

Filled with smooth wood and gleaming glass, it feels more boardroom than beer hall (actually, make that bored room).

What goes right? The beer. Poured from a ‘tank’ system designed to maintain your beer’s freshness, it’s every bit as good as drinking straight from the tit of Pilsner’s own brew master. Further points get scored for a strong menu and likable service.

CESKA ul. Chmielna 35, ceska.pl With its fake brickwork and shameless proliferation of Pilsner paraphernalia, the general feeling is that Ceska feels forced and phony – looking like it was fitted out to a rigid company blueprint, it’s more like the kind of theme pub you’d find off Leicester Square. Service, meanwhile, can be surly, forgetful and occasionally plain hostile. The ‘tank’ pouring system is a considerable plus: try the ‘mliko’, a full pint of creamy foam that can be sunk in a swig.

CZESKA BASZTA Most Poniatowskiego (Tower 22A), czeskabaszta.pl There’s a growing number of Czech pubs in Warsaw, but none do it better than the original. Tucked inside one of the weird turrets that support Poniatowski Bridge, discover divey Czeska immersed in a foggy, yellow-ish glow.

Boisterous but extremely friendly, there’s a reason for all the man hugs and back slaps: everyone’s drunk! The cupboardsized smoking room is where most of the fun happens, and while there’s a good choice of Czech craft beers in the fridge, the real reason to visit are the seven taps serving the frothy pints of lager sourced from the owner’s favorite small breweries.

CZESKA PIVIARNIA ul. Ks. J. Popiełuszki 19/21, fb.com/czeskapiviarnia Though it looks basic and pretty primitive, just the mere existence of Piviarnia makes Żoliborz feel more complete. Positioned inside a grotty old pavilion, the bubbly atmosphere is helped along by six taps and a fridge stuffed with bottles from both Czechia and Poland. Genuine in its sense of warmth, it’s become an established neighborhood hero.

VYCESKA ul. Polinezyjska 10, fb.com/vyceska Once regarded as ‘the land that pubs forgot’, Ursynów is getting its act together.

Found as it is inside a warehouse-style building amid lots of commie concrete, Vyceska’s smart interiors are something of a surprise: heavy black finishes interspersed with streaks of daffodil yellow and natural wood. Overcoming the challenges of their location, this is a bar that works well on every level. At the forefront though is a creative beer choice that includes several craft beers from south of the border on top of expected classics from Holba, Bernard and Primator.

INSIDE WISDOM

“If you sell beer for a living,” says Karol Wawrzyniecki, “then make sure you sell good beer.”

Trading in a career in insurance to pursue his passion for Czech beer, Karol’s Czeska Baszta pub has become the benchmark that others aspire to follow. “Some beer geeks call lager boring,” he says, “but they haven’t tried the amazing stuff like the beers you get from Moravia.” A self-confessed ‘beer tourist’, his monthly trips south keep the pub stocked with a Czech selection that’s unrivaled in Poland. But forget the beer factor, it’s atmosphere that truly marks out a pub to be authentically Czech.

“It doesn’t matter if you’re in the middle of Prague or the middle of nowhere,” says Karol, “the first thing you notice about a Czech pub is just how alive it is – people are having fun. It’s a pub culture that’s based around singing, eating, drinking; and, it’s open to all: young, old, men, women.” Defined by its raucous bonhomie, Czeska Baszta doesn’t just get the liquid details right, but something altogether more important...

Drink! Review

MAGIC OF MOKOTOWSKA

Beautiful people need beautiful places. Therefore, it’s a surprise that Mokotowska is so wanting when it comes to daytime venues to break from boutique binging. Bistro Spatif redresses the balance presenting a narrow room that announces itself in a blast of tropical turquoise, bare brickwork and pristine parquet. Immediately engaging, this compact cafe is everything you need during daylight hours – and once they’ve closed for the evening, head across the courtyard to the larger, livelier Klub Spatif: already earning a name for artsy events and long weekend nights, it’s a place that could stand to enter local folklore.

Bistro Spatif ul. Mokotowska 58

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DRINK! Listings bars & pubs 2Koła Sat, as it is, in the abandoned backspaces and brickyards behind Zachodnia station, 2Koła feels like Warsaw’s dirtiest little secret. Still stained and smelling of grease and oil, this former garage is piled high with dented sofas, warehouse palettes and motorcycling detritus. Yet the supremely friendly owners have turned this shadowy lair into a cult bar that’s specifically celebrated for rowdy jam sessions that cover everything from ragtime to rockabilly. ul. Tunelowa 2B 8 Dzień Tygodnia Though the owners remain the same, the unit that once housed Kwadrat couldn’t be more different: no longer a grungey, shadowy space, it’s been rebooted with lots of brash, bursts of color, strings of fairy lights and pops of modern art. What’s not been lost is the amiable sense of gentle chaos: buoyed by a quirky beer selection and fun music policy, this remains one of the friendliest venues in the parish. (D5) ul.

Poznańska 7

The Alchemist The great British tradition of ‘a pint after work’ is gathering steam in PL, thanks in part to places like this. Lively and cosmopolitan, The Alchemist’s broad ranging appeal – not to mention ‘self-service beer wall’ – makes it a winning gathering point for 5 p.m. drinks. (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 3,

the kind of street terrace buzz that shouts summer in the city. Tip: the hot, hot, hot Bloody Maria is Poland’s best hangover cure. (C5) ul. Hoża 61 Bar Studio The ascetic, modern décor is intentional – both not to compete with the fine adornment of the original walls and to break through the building’s grandiose airs. It’s hard not to be overawed by the sheer gigantism of the Palace of Culture that looms above. It seamlessly slips from café during the day into its more culturally active persona in the evenings, with concerts, film screenings, plays and political discussions. (C4) Pl. Defilad 1, barstudio.pl

Bar Warszawa De Luxe Leave your visit to the weekend when De Luxe unfurls into something resembling a Polish wedding disco. All the requisite characters appear in this spinning vortex of Boney M: vodka-fuelled Incredible Hulks, groping granddads, svelte students and everyone else in between. Somehow, the formula works without a hitch. There are Poles who’d be mortified by this representation of their country, but the truth is, it’s a rip-roaring time that’s enjoyed by most. (D2) Krakowskie Przedmieście 79 Bazar There’s Krusovice, Bernard and Staropramen on tap, and the Czech slant

is lent added meat by a series of evenings held in cahoots with the Czech Cultural Centre – it’s during boozy disco nights the party spills into a shadowy cellar with light retro hints. On ground level its raw and industrial with asphalt colors and overhead pipes. You wouldn’t expect it, but the margaritas are smashing. (F1) ul.

Jagiellońska 13

Beirut As hip as ever, Beirut has walls dusted with cult album covers, documentary posters and witty graffiti inspired by Banksy. Busy in the day, and absolutely packed at night, order unconventional beers from androgynous staff standing behind a sandbag bar decorated with silver hand grenades and a model tank.

(D5) ul. Poznańska 12, beirut.com.pl

Bierhalle Having tapped their first beer eight years back, this microbrewery has morphed into a national phenomenon with outposts across the country. All Warsaw locations have a cut/paste Bavarian atmosphere, hefty wooden fittings and waitresses dressed like mountain frauleins. The drinks themselves are formulaic and nothing special. various locations, bierhalle.pl British Bulldog In terms of aesthetic it’s the most accurate replica of an English pub you’ll find. And they get a further nod for a

thealchemist.pl

Bar Gemba Despite occupying the bottom corner of an office development Gemba isn’t short of character: that is, at least, if you measure character by the number of thrift store armchairs and vintage extras.

Furbished with lampshades, luggage and varying odds and ends, it’s the kind of dark, debauched bar that trended amongst artsy Poles in the early 00s. (D5) ul. Wilcza 50/52

Bar Pacyfik Candy floss pink and ocean blue?

Remarkably, these colors work thanks to lighting that’s kept dimmed and dark: inspired by 80s Mexico City, Pacyfik looks and feels raw and gritty, hip and happening. Catering to more than just the overspill from Hala Koszyki, this hangout has assumed immediate cult status and

ENTER THE WORLD OF ROOM 13

ROOM13 is the heart of the club basin at the legendary Mazowiecka Street.

Perfect location in the center of Warsaw, modern interiors combined with historic architecture and top-class music - all these qualities make Room13 the best choice on the Warsaw’s club map.

The club is located in the 19th century tenement house in the heart of Warsaw.

The unconventional club has been adapted to represent the interiors of the pre-war company’s premises.

Opening hours: Thursday - Sunday 22nd - last guest Mazowiecka 13 • www.room13.pl • fb.com/room13club

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DRINK! Listings brilliant covered terrace that’s great in all weather. Not that you’ll find many British expats in here, they’ve been boycotting the place ever since the dismissal of the original British manager. Judging by the poor standards of beer and food, you might want to follow their example. What could have become an expat legend is, in essence, a big wet plop of disappointment.

(D4) ul. Aleje Jerozolimskie 42, bbpub.pl

(D5) ul. Wilcza 46

Hard Rock Cafe Full Throttle cocktails, lively staff and a classic rock soundtrack: the energy of HRC is hard to find fault with. And on the rare occasion there is a lull in the night, use the opportunity to sniff around memorabilia that includes a black leather number once worn by Madonna. (C5) ul.

Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), hardrockcafe.pl

Central Bar The beer (supplied by Bierhalle) is fine, the cocktails getting better, and the atmosphere cranked to max: you get the buzzy sense that you’re in the middle of something that’s captured Warsaw’s imagination – the outdoor terrace is one of the places to be seen this summer. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki)

Chłodna 25 After several closures, noise clampdowns and a change in management you’d imagine C25 to be a mere shadow of what it once was. But after a slow start the new owners appear to have rescued this listing vessel and returned it to it best. On the ground floor it’s a place of creaking floorboards and retro armchairs, while the basement gets opened for experimental music nights and improvised orchestras.

(B3) ul. Chłodna 25, klubchlodna25.pl

Elephant Belgian Pub Signposted by a jolly, dancing elephant, this Belgian pub presents its cause the moment you enter – there’s twenty or so taps laid right out in front, and to the left a fridge that’s expected to top out to cover 200 beers. The design is basic – brickwork, beer kegs and varying ephemera of the brewing trade – but it doesn’t need that much more: it’s about the beer, after all. (C1) ul. Freta 19 Grizzly Gin Bar More prone than ever to global trends, news that the international gin revival has hit Warsaw comes as no real bombshell.

The style in Grizzly is dark and hip with the design largely limited to moody lighting, some witty murals and a bank of outdated TV sets, while the smoking room is great for accidental meetings with curious characters. Serving their own ‘Grizzly lager’ as well as numerous cocktails based on different craft gins, it’s fast becoming the latest night in the area.

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Irish Pub Opened in 1991, it’s doubtful that the place has seen a cleaning lady since, but the general sense of murk and muck does add to the authenticity: it looks and feels like a pub should. Served by a stern, expressionless barman, the Guinness arrives in a mug that’s seen better days but is actually surprisingly decent.

Nothing memorable, but not the calamity you may anticipate from a Polish-run Irish pub on the fringes of Old Town. (C2) ul.

Miodowa 3, irishpubmiodowa.pl

Kraken Rum Bar Named after one of the ocean’s most feared mythical creatures (the scary squid from Pirates of the Caribbean), the woodclad Kraken features a wall of cymbals, heavy furniture and some interesting photography. While there’s some decent bottles of rum, there’s perhaps not enough to justify calling it a rum bar. The place rocks though. (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, fb.com/KrakenRumBar

Legends Over the years Legends has earned a legendary status amongst the expats and Anglophiles. Their cause is helped by touches such as a proper darts board, Sky Sports and a traditional menu that’s as authentically English as the Downing Street cat. Presiding over it all is Graham, a seasoned expat and Everton nut. (C5) ul.

Emilii Plater 25, legendsbar.pl

Lolek A boisterous pub with a Bavarian, bacchanalian spirit and a legendary reputation. Though this park-centered bar is best-known for its long summer nights, once the cool weather sets in find strangers squishing together indoors on shaky benches in a rough-and-ready interior. With sausages grilling over an open fire, and the constant din of sloshed

merriment in the background, you understand why many have a soft spot for this atmospheric institution. (A8) ul. Rokitnicka 20 (Pole Mokotowskie), lolekpub.pl

Między Nami With 18 years of service under their belt you may think of Między Nami as being an antiquated has-been. Not so. Haunted by a mix of media types and local characters, this hip white piece of post-commie Warsaw has an enduring, almost timeless appeal. (D4) ul. Bracka 20, miedzynamicafe. com

Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’ Approximately twenty bars occupy a series of low-budget prefabricated cabins, presenting possibly the highest density of bars in the capital: in summer, it feels like one big street party. Adding to the gentle sense of confusion comes the realization that so many bars look the same – accessed through clattery, barred doors, visitors walk into what can only be described as murk. Klaps, with its dildo beer taps and phallic walls, is probably the most well-known of the lot. (D4) Enter from ul. Nowy Świat 26

Państwo Miasto Is there anything better than sitting in a café, book in hand, while summer sunshine pours through the windows? We go to Państwo to do just that, an echoey, cavernous café with a young, lively crowd that’s keen on scholastic events and political causes. Never does it feel too trendy, or too hipster – it’s a place that’s all about atmosphere and friendship. (B1) ul. Andersa 29, panstwomiasto.pl

Paradox Billing themselves as a ‘sci-fi / gamers / role play asylum’ this is a cradle of geeks, nerds and people who collect serial killer memorabilia. Decorated with plastic black crows, a map of Mordor and figurines of goblins, watch as oddly attired suspects engross themselves in ‘for hire’ games with names like Hobbit and Bewoulf. (B1) ul. Anielewicza 2, paradox-cafe.pl

Plan B Plan B is the very essence of dive Warsaw.

Weekends pass by in a raucous blur, with the party spilling out under the colonnades outside – it helps to look like a DJ, but in truth everyone is welcome.

DRINK! Listings The hangover from this shabby, grubby bar is traumatic. (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), planb.pl

Rozrywki After a couple of years during which it had started to feel a little like yesterday’s man, ul. Mazowiecka has had a resurgence and its sense of self restored. Playing a part in this comeback is Rozrywki, a svelte bar with a clientele that values the importance of looking its best. Beyond the immediate appeal of the beauties

and wannabes, the cocktails are the chief enticement and given star treatment by a competent staff who’ve been handed a quality set of tools with which to work with. ul. Mazowiecka 6/8

to the giant tarantula that once hung from the wall. There’s an air of louche 60s living here, and it gets weirder when bands with names like the Bum Bum Orchestra enter to play trumpets amongst vodka-tipping guests. (F1) ul. Ząbkowska 6,

Sheesha Lounge Providing you don’t mind sharing the weekend with some of the most gloriously gorgeous people in the city, then a trip to Sheesha ticks all the boxes. Presenting itself in a whirl of action, the exotic, clubby atmosphere hits fever pitch come the midnight hour. Earlier, soak up the atmosphere with a scented hookah while lounging under eastern lights. (D5) Al.

oparyabsurdu.pl

Jerozolimskie 33, sheesha.pl

Stixx It takes a moment to allow the sheer magnitude of Stixx sink in. Having adjusted to the wow factor of the interior – which can best be described as cosmopolitan-industrial – most retreat to the long, all weather deck which in itself is quite something: the aesthetics are such that a cocktail party on an oligarch’s yacht comes to mind. There aren’t many better places for a drink when the roof is rolled back and the stars twinkle above. (A4) Pl. Europejski 4A, tel. 22 340 4040, stixx.pl

Świetlica Long and narrow, dark and murky, it’s as raw as they come: toilets of grubby menace, a smoking room clad in spray art, broken fittings and general gloom.

Basically, it’s everything you demand from the last bar of the night – a place where you can slide into the shadows and watch the world spin around. (E7) ul.

Warszawa Powiśle The prime months for this former ticket booth arrive each summer when the deckchairs outside provide ample opportunity for the city’s young and fashionable to gather in an almost carnival-like atmosphere. Once seen as the hipster Center of Power, it still maintains great popularity with whiskered, tattooed sorts. (E4) ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B, warszawapowisle.pl

Żyrafa Sucked inside it’s green/blue glow, visitors all but collide against the bar with a swing of the door. It’s just 15 sq/m, but that doesn’t stop drinkers rolling in.

“There’s some nights we’ve had 30 people in here,” says the barman, a thought that both terrifies and exhilarates in equal measure. (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 22

cafés Blikle There’s a cultured, pre-war look to Blikle, a proud cafe with a 100-year history.

Famous former clients include Charles de Gaulle who swore by their donuts. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 35 (check website for other locations), blikle.pl

Marszałkowska 17

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Bułkę przez Bibułkę There’s a feminine style to this cafe, what with its cute, girly pastels, petite plant pots and woodsy finishes. But no matter what your gender or age, there’s something immediately sunny and positive about this place. Slow food sandwiches arrive on wooden boards, there’s pretty homemade desserts and a careful choice of wine: falling in love with it is easy. ul. Puławska 24 & ul. Zgoda 3,

Ulubiona Set inside the archway, look for a heavy door next to a dented ashtray seemingly unemptied for the last couple of months.

Shadowy and shabby, you’ll usually find barflies strumming guitars or engrossed in a solo game of chess. An intensely personal experience, it’s a bar that compensates for its lack of glitz with a stoner-style ambiance that soon sweeps over all. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 27

bulkeprzezbibulke.pl

W Oparach Absurdu Hidden under Persian rugs, velvety drapes and reclaimed antiques, some still refer to it as The Spider Bar in reference

Być Może It’s all about artisan bread and breakfast in the industrial looking Być Może. It’s taken the concept of Charlotte (groan,

DRINK! Listings there’s even a communal table), and improved it with excellent breads and a crowd that’s a little less pleased with itself. (E7) ul. Bagatela 14, bycmoze.com.pl Cafe & Lounge Bar But Good Music First Looking back, it’s been a pretty static year where the cafe scene is concerned.

But away from the depressingly familiar sight of a new Starbucks or Costa, there have been some glimmers of hope: the impossibly long name aside, noteworthy features of this suburban star number a stunning David Bowie mural by the street artist Skuha, and an interior composed of raw concrete finishes and beautiful lighting. ul. Rydygiera 13 Café Iluzja Bathed in white, black and shades of grey, it’s an allusion to the black-and-white films of bygone days. The interiors as a whole were designed in a 1950s vibe and the massive armchairs are by far the best part. What more do you expect from a café inside a cult socialist era cinema. (C9) ul. Narbutta 50A, afeiluzja.pl

Charlotte Menora If the air is smug and self-satisfied, there’s a good reason for that: Charlotte have come to embody modern urban Poland: energetic, ambitious and ferociously trend conscious. And to think, some look at it as a mere bakery. Occupying a long space, the latest outpost of this café chain doesn’t overlook the area’s Jewish heritage, with the menu featuring several Jewish delicacies: the bagels are ok. (C4) Pl. Grzybowski 2, bistrocharlotte.pl Coffee Karma Order a smoothie, switch off the phone, open a book – it’s that sort of place.

Concerts and art shows figure in their repertoire, as does rather good coffee.

(D6) pl. Zbawiciela 3/5, coffeekarma.eu

Cophi So small you get the idea you could fit Cophi into the palm of your hand, yet no other place in Warsaw is more devoted to sourcing the best coffees in the world.

(D5) ul. Hoża 58/60

it’s the book selection – varied, esoteric and at once compelling. Or maybe it’s the atmosphere, such that browsers anchor themselves on the sofas to lose an afternoon with their nose in a novel while sipping drip coffee. (E3) ul. Piwna 20/26, czuly.pl

FatWhite_CoffeeBar Super small but perfectly packaged, features number coffee sourced from the acclaimed Kofi Brand and a pristine interior decorated with intriguing art that celebrates Muranów’s past. A personal chef by trade (that’s his Scooby Doo van parked outside), the sandwiches made

by Filip are a thousand times superior to the standard coffee shop options. Though diminutive in its size, there’s something special going on here, something that’s good for you and positive for Andersa.

(C1) ul. Andersa 6

Kafka Café A chessboard floor and a collection of antlers on the wall characterize Kafka, a bookstore / café whose literary collection is composed of paperbacks rescued from recycling plants. Books are purchased by their weight (zł. 10 per kilo) while the menu includes pancakes, pastas and even doggy treats for your mutt. (E3) ul.

Oboźna 3, kawiarnia-kafka.pl

Kawiarnia Fabryczna Looking for a place in which to shut the world out and stick your nose in a book?

Head to this warm den to sink inside comfy retro chairs and soak up the natural light that pours through the window.

It’s a place to eavesdrop, catch-up on gmail and daydream the morning away.

The flat white is spot-on as well. (E3) ul.

Fabryczna 28/30, kawiarniafabryczna.pl

KluboKawiarnia Towarzyska With an interior modeled by John Strumiłło, this 50s pavilion has an ascetic design defined by polar white interiors.

Contrast is provided downstairs, with deep magenta walls and retro armchairs.

Concerts, screenings and art happenings have made it into something of local cultural mainstay. ul. Zwycięzców 49, klubokawiarnia.net

Czuły Barbarzyńca na Piwnej A Parisian-style bookstore full of steps and wobbles, nooks and alcoves. All agree there’s something special here: maybe

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Kos Kos is a place intent on stitching the neighborhood together. That much is

made clear by a diverse events calendar that features a panoply of activities: yoga courses to weekend brunches via the occasional kid’s improvisation class. As commendable as these social actions are, it’s the basics that Kos do so well.

Drenched in natural sunlight, perch on the windowsill and enjoy swift wifi, awardwinning coffee and a menu of homemade snacks and bits. (D4) ul. Chmielna 9A Krem A chic city center hangout with all the swanky, urban elegance of the 8th arrondisement. Opened by the same team behind Monsieur Leon, find their latest little baby decorated with monochrome tiles, marble-topped tables, and retro-styled mirrors. A place of hip sophistication and laid-back vibe, the menu is built around French cheeseboards, raclette and super sexy baguettes. (D6) ul. Śniadeckich 18 Mała Ziemiańska Sat as it is on a street that’s become the Center of Now, Mała Ziemiańska is a pleasing throwback to slower times.

Designed to evoke the artistic spirit of the mid-19th century, this warming café is steeped in shadow and curiosities.

A celebration of pre-war Warsaw, the literary pretensions of this bolthole find the walls clad with archaic books and sepia photos of the city that once was. (D7) ul. Oleandrów 2/4, malaziemianska.pl

Matcha Tea House Renting the space once occupied by the legendary Bastylia, Matcha certainly have a big pair of boots to fill – but fill them they might. Beyond a comprehensive choice of matcha, find also an array desserts that use this green Japanese tea as their cornerstone ingredient. (D6) ul.

Mokotowska 17

Ministerstwo Kawy Sourcing their coffee from Koppi, an internationally acclaimed Swedish roasting house, the ministry takes no short cuts in their pursuit of excellence.

Utilizing Ethiopian, Costa Rican and Brazilian arabicas – some exclusive to Poland – barista Wojciech Rzytki has earned a reputation across Poland for his expert hand. Rave reviews are standard and appropriate. (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 27, ministerstwokawy.pl

DRINK! Listings MiTo Café, gallery, bookstore. Of course, we’ve seen that concept before, just not done in this style. Stark white backgrounds are offset by edgy art, lending the place a Tate Modern feel, something accentuated by the earnest fashion students who gather through the day. And there’s the toilet, a futuristic affair with piped music and a mirrored wall. (D6) ul. Waryńskiego 28, mito.

BROUGHT TO YOU BY BARDZIEJ

art.pl

Monsieur Leon Found resting on the corner of a quiet residential street, Monsieur Leon is surely one of Mokotów’s best kept secrets. Here, simplicity is the name of the game, with a brief blackboard menu that involves cheese boards, salads and a hefty croque monsieur. (E8) ul. Sulkiewicza 5 Niezłe Ziółko Café & Deli A shrine to pure and healthy eating, this friendly café doesn’t just brew a great coffee, but bakes its own bread and produces its own yogurt. Sit in the loft to look down on shoppers scurrying to Mokotowska, and on the way out, check out ‘Grandma’s Cupboard’ in the corner: jams, spreads and olive oils are there to buy for home. (D5) ul. Krucza 17 Odette Tearoom Taking its lead from their original dessert stop on ul. Górskiego, the sister venue peddles glorious cakes and pralines as well as a hand-picked selection of boutique teas served in a fragrant and elegant atmosphere. (C4) ul. Twarda 4, odette.pl

Relaks Generally travelling by tram for a cup of Joe sounds excessive, but that’s exactly what you’ll be doing on discovering Relaks. Expertly prepared, right down to the foam art, the baristas here use the finest imported machines and work only with fair trade, ‘specialty’ coffee. If you have time, the drip coffees are more than worth the wait. The interiors supply a retro accent, and are lapped up by a very fashion aware crowd. (E9) ul. Puławska 48 Resort The main talking point here is a design that utilizes shopping trollies and street signs to serve as chairs and tables, and a pile of second-hand books to form the bar

MAKING TRENDS WORK

Over the last ten years Polish bar culture has undergone a unique, powerful transition. Not content with relying on the ‘usual’, bartenders are now using the same techniques found in the world’s top restaurants – by reaching for unknown ingredients, they’re now thrilling new audiences with their talent and creativity.

We’ve adapted these new trends whilst also balancing them against our intimate, retro interior – the warmth of our venue is channeled directly through the welcome of our bar crew. By visiting us you too will experience the unique atmosphere of a place that combines old and new. As friends, we created this venue to reflect our love of good music and passion for original flavors in both - cocktails and food. We created Bardziej for You!

See you at BARDZIEJ!

ul. Marszałkowska 21/25 (enter from ul. Oleandrów), tel. 22 118 2743, www.bardziejbar.pl warsawinsider.pl

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DRINK! Listings – there’s even a sofa constructed from a bathtub! Themes of recycling are taken to the limit in Resort, yet for all that it never looks junky or cheap. (C2) ul. Bielańska 1 Same Fusy Suffused in a candle-lit glow, this 15th century cellar unwinds to reveal a charming brick room suspended in time. Filled with gnarled wooden oddities and tree stump tables, the sweet aroma of fragrant teas helps amplify the fairy tale mood. ul.

Nowomiejska 10

Stor Small but perfectly formed, Stor has all the clack and clatter of a busy local café.

Regional beers, Chemex and Aeropress coffee and gluten-free snacks and sandwiches provide plenty of reason to pop in and idle about. (E3) ul. Tamka 33

Nowogrodzka 31, niechzyjebal.pl

Klub Dekada This Warsaw classic has been going strong since, it seems, the city was born.

If you’re down in the dumps, it’s the kind of goofy night out everybody needs once in a while. Find DJs with names like Finger and Spooky Kid entertaining a jiggy crowd that knows how to have fun. (A6) ul.

Grójecka 19/25, dekada.pl

Luztro Feeling naughty? Luztro enjoys a reputation for libertine behavior and illicit pharmaceuticals. Dark, grim and grotty, this after party stalwart gets going at about 4 a.m. on weekends when troglodyte club creatures emerge zombie-like to dance way past sunrise. Jaw grinding, rib rattling electro has never felt better. (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, luztro.pl

Wrzenie Świata Those with journalistic leanings love Wrzenie Świata. It’s definitely more Macbook than Moleskine, but this bookstore/café attracts plenty of readers (and writers) to its book-lined interior.

Buzzing like a cafe should, it packs out for slideshows and seminars. (E4) ul.

Gałczyńskiego 7

clubs Backstage Studio Snuggled into a row of shabby cabins mostly rented to sex shops and gambling dens, Backstage feels secretive and clandestine. In spite of that, it’s earned a name among the younger generation as one of the best spaces in Warsaw for electro, minimal and techno nights (check their Facebook for upcoming events). Rather bigger than it looks, step downstairs to find chaos unfurling in a labyrinthine basement. (A3) ul. Chłodna 35/37, backstagestudio.club

Bal If you thought Nowogrodzka was just about grungy craft beer dens then think again. Proving you wrong is Bal, a club that draws a pleasure-seeking party crew of waifish, wasted model-types and assorted hangers-on. Find them twerking away under one of the most interesting lighting arrangements in the city. (F5) ul.

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No Comment Found in one of the towers that prop up Most Poniatowskiego, a ‘sense of unknown’ manifests itself inside this weekend’s only club, a bi-level area whose small size adds to the air of mystery and exclusivity. Away from the prying eyes of Joe Public, find glittery, local celebs getting down and naughty.

from their temporary digs in the Koneser Factory, the new-look Sen Pszczoły is every bit as murky as the previous: amid a heavy industrial background, find partygoers enjoying a mixed bag of events that range from didgeridoo performances to full-on techno that makes fillings pop out. ul.

Grochowska 301/305, senpszczoly.pl

Smolna 38 One of the most secretive clubs there is: operating a strict no-pictures policy, being caught taking a selfie is a crime punished by expulsion – and how good is that!

Attracting a hardcore crowd, its a place of real sounds: forget the joke DJs most clubs settle for, Smolna’s agenda has thus far included the likes of Simian Mobile Disco and Ellen Allien. (E4) ul. Smolna 38 The View Sat on top of the Spektrum Tower this bar/ club has reinvented the whole concept of going out in Warsaw. A truly world-class venture, the open-air deck on the 32nd floor offers striking views of the cityscape, first rate cocktails and an international rotation of DJs. No other club nails the champagne lifestyle with quite the same panache. (C4) ul. Twarda 18, theview.pl

(F4) Al. 3 Maja 16/18A, Most Poniatowskiego

cocktails

Ritual Looking dark and sensual, this two-level space unwraps before you like some elaborate adventure. Candles flicker, atmosphere crackles – moving towards the bar, slinky, sultry club creatures of unfathomable beauty prowl past with drinks poised in hand. Heating up gradually as the night progresses, Ritual moves organically from being a voluptuous bar to a spicy club as the night ebbs towards its heady conclusion. (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12,

6 Cocktails If 6 Cocktails has the feeling of hanging around someone’s flat that’s because, actually, you are. This posh Mokotowska apartment has been re-adapted as an exclusive bar frequented by leggy models and society figures: the parties are nuts!

Unmarked from street level, to enjoy the inventive cocktails message them on FB and await your invite. (E5) ul. Mokotowska 57

ritualwarsaw.com

Room 13 Connected by a series of inter-linking archways, rooms inside this dressy club throb at the weekends with a super sexy crowd letting loose under the vaulted ceilings. Now in their fifth year, it’s become a stalwart of the Mazowiecka scene. (D3) ul.

Mazowiecka 13, room13.pl

THE MOST

Bar & Books R C P T M Wood-paneled and lined with leatherC W bound tomes, there’s a sense of dignity ≈ W C that’s unique to Warsaw’s cocktail scene. ≈ C C There’s ≈humor, as well, courtesy of T portraits ≈ of chimps togged out like 18th P E century ≈gentry. Similar to a members’ only EFRESHINGLY LACES

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LOCATION SHOOTS

PODWALE BAR AND BOOKS Wąski Dunaj 20, 00-256 Warsaw Tel.: +48 225.599.199

DRINK! Listings Mayfair bar, find ‘classic with a twist’ cocktails mixed and muddled by the sort of charming bartenders you’d trust serving Bond. While bills can become weighty affairs, no one regrets the spend – plus, you can smoke here as well! (D2) ul. Wąski

want to order a pyramid of champagne and dance on their piano. Behave, and order a cocktail instead. For a taste of the classics, the Column Bar is pretty peerless. (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście

slick, vibrant interiors redolent of London matched up with modern cocktails and twinkling views. (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79,

42/44 (Hotel Bristol)

Pies Czy Suka Monochrome gun metal grey colors are offset by a young crowd attired in red shoes, pink trousers and blue headphones. This clean, concrete space is speckled with plaster moldings of reindeer heads, and excels on the cocktail front. Order from an iPad menu, before settling back for cocktails made using mad scientist, molecular techniques that involve foam, vapor, beakers and other things you’d usually find in Professor Yaffle’s lab. Certainly not as ‘mature’ as the new breed of cocktail bars, but definitely more fun. (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8A,

Dunaj 20, barandbooks.pl

Bar Wieczorny The cocktails are serious here, with top quality spirits (Vestal, Baczewski, Woodford Reserve) used with equally big name mixes (Fentimans, Big Tom, etc.). Further, you’ll find it’s the right products in the right hands – the staff really know their game. (D8) ul. Wiśniowa 46, barwieczorny.pl

Kita Koguta The staff aren’t afraid to get imaginative, and that includes serving cocktails in smoking coconut husks. Not all the experiments go as planned: on our last visit, a basic Bloody Mary was turned into an alcoholic carrot flavored fizz. (E5) ul.

Krucza 6/14

Kiti Bar A raucous bar drawn up by the owners of the nearby Kita Koguta. Dominated by a tall Polynesian totem, this ray of sunshine gets noted for extravagant cocktails served by game staff in zany shirts. (D5) Bardziej It’s thanks to places like Bardziej that Oleandrów is becoming one of the most talked about streets around. This splitlevel bar does a good job of capturing the essence of the area, with inventive ‘author’s cocktails’ matched against a warm, dimly lit interior that’s heaving with cogs, metal hooks and enigmatic dials. The later it gets, the better it is.

(E5) ul. Marszałkowska 21/25 (enter from Oleandrów)

Biała Expect highly individualized cocktails, a thoughtful menu and a glam, vamped up crowd every bit as beautiful as the place itself: set in a gloriously white inter-war villa, this is a place that oozes with sex appeal. There aren’t many finer outdoor gardens. ul. Francuska 2, fb.com/ bialazjedziwypij

Charlie Arguably the best and boldest opening of the last year, Charlie presents thrilling, upmarket cocktails inside an interior that wouldn’t be amiss in Manhattan: there’s even a fountain! Being rich and pretty is almost a compulsory criteria. (E6) ul. Mokotowska 39

Column Bar Just the look of Column Bar sweeps you off your feet; there’s something breathlessly classy about it, like you’ve just entered Gatsby’s ballroom. You

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ul. Krucza 6/14

Lazy Dog While Lazy Dog isn’t exactly new, it does feel like it’s turned over a new leaf – what was a good cocktail bar, it seems, has grown to become a very good one.

Seeking inspiration from some of the world’s wackiest artworks, the cocktails aren’t just beautiful to look at, but damn good to drink... If there’s a highlight, that’s the ‘Fight Between A Tiger & A Buffalo’, a spicy, tropical creation complete enveloped in a thick billowing mist. (D5) ul.

Krucza 16/22, lazy-dog.pl

Palmier Escapist in every respect, there’s a star quality here, a real sense of swank. The interiors are the stuff of Gatsby – tall palm fronds and marble finishes underneath ceilings that stretch forever – while the long, strip terrace is pure seasonal bliss: a place to chill, chat and pretend to be one of Warsaw’s top 1%. Well-balanced and impeccable on every level, cocktails here are a liquid journey into the heart of pleasure. (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12 Panorama Sky Bar The Marriott’s 40th floor Panorama has had a couple of incarnations: first, as a glitzy Dynasty throwback, and then, more recently, as something that could have passed for a business class airport lounge. Now it’s been reinvented once again, only this time successfully: find

panoramabar.pl

piesczysuka.com

The Roots Cluttered with shiny props and pieces rescued from the early days of cocktail making, The Roots could pass for a Victorian era curiosity shop. Looking past the eccentricities that comprise the interior, it’s become famous on account of irresistible drinks mixed and muddled by dapper experts that aren’t so much barmen as they are craftsmen. (C2) ul.

Wierzbowa 11

Steam Bar Tapping into the fashion for steampunk design, this wholehearted effort ensures all of the basic elements are ticked off and present: metallic, industrial leftovers, sprockets and chains, and exposed, weathered walls. The cocktails are the key detail though, and here they’re inventive offerings often presented in ingenious vessels. Best known for its craft beer scene, the arrival of an excellent cocktail bar represents big news for Nowogrodzka. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 23 Weles A swing of the door takes visitors plunging down a blacked-out stairwell and into a basement that emerges from the darkness like a decadent Tsarist relic: glinting chandeliers glimmer over deep leather sofas, their subtle light casting a glow over an immaculate clientele. Befitting the venue, the artisanal cocktails are a work of elaborate craftsmanship, and incorporate everything from elite liquors

DRINK! Listings to strips of bacon and flower petals. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 11, welesbar.pl

Woda Ognista Woda Ognista evokes the jazzy air of a Chicago, Prohibition era speakeasy with a seriously stylish interior that includes a colossal collection of vintage cocktail shakers that glint behind glass. The drinks themselves, rattled up by dapper gents in braces and flat caps, are split between house creations and reprised classics from a bygone era. Some are more successful than others, and it’s a credit to the staff that they’re willing to take comments on board and adapt their precious recipes to suit fussy tastes. (E5) ul. Wilcza 8, wodaognista.com

Zamieszanie Cuda Na Kiju have built on their continuing success by adding this spot in the glass block next to their tap pub. Here though it’s cocktails that are the draw.

Pre-bottled in a secret room downstairs, meaning none of the ad-libbed artistry of other cocktail bars, and tastes that are closer in line to 90s alcopop drinks than anything else. That doesn’t stop a young crowd from swamping the place come the weekend. (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 6/12 Zorza Slotted inside what was once Café 6/12, Zorza embellishes the venue’s ascetic PRL style with licks of art deco: it’s an unlikely marriage that manages to work.

Do your pecking, picking, sipping and supping on an outdoor terrace set-up that encourages mingling and interaction. (D4) ul. Żurawia 6/12, zorzabistro.pl

for gentlemen Playhouse Not here gorilla gangsters on the door or pushy girls doing the rounds (“buy me drinky drinky”). Instead, Playhouse models itself on the top class mega clubs such as Spearmint Rhino, and the result is a subterranean space removed from the sleaze and murk usually associated with the industry. But you want to know what the girls are like, yeah? Let the fact askmen.com voted it their favorite strip in the world speak for itself. (B3) Al. Solidarności 82A, playhouse.pl

craft beer Artezan Pub Browar Artezan’s flagship pub is a compulsory visit for all beer aficionados.

The beer is the magnetic force with eight taps blasting out pacesetter tipples from this brewery’s portfolio. The Pacific is the Insider’s all-time favorite. (D4) ul. Moniuszki 1A

Chmielarnia A subterranean multi-tap found in the depths of the fishing institute. Artisan beers rule the roost here (there’s 15 taps and stacks more beer in the fridge), a point underlined by a glass coffin of mainstream macro lager. While the bar gets loud and rackety, sweaty and sticky, that’s balanced out by a rotating beer offer that’s moderately priced plus a friendly, earnest audience that’s all beer geeks and know-it-alls. (B5) ul. Twarda 42 (basement level), chmielarnia.waw.pl

Chmielarnia Marszałkowska With Warsaw’s tap bars all falling over each other to stock the latest tap beers, your options are frequently similar from bar to bar – which is when a good fridge becomes important. Not only can you actually see into Chmielarnia’s, you’ll find it housing the most exciting brews trending around the globe: from the edgy Bermondsey breweries to the Scandinavian giants. Broaden your horizons! (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16, chmielarnia.waw.pl

Craft Beer Muranów Though still an area thick with beret-wearing, dachshund-walking oldies, Muranów is fast catching up with the rest of Warsaw.

Taking care of the craft beer angle is this newbie, a bi-level bar with warm tones and 16 taps of beery goodness. ul. Andersa 23, fb.com/craftbeermuranow

Cuda Na Kiju Where it all began. Summer catches Warsaw’s original tap bar at its best, with the courtyard of the former Communist Party HQ now home to an entirely different kind of party: on occasions find food trucks and film screenings, and all other times just a massive crowd getting sloshed on 15 types of tap beer. But even outside the sweaty months Cuda is worth the visit: drink inside a modern, glass cube that’s warsawinsider.pl

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DRINK! Listings refreshing contemporary. (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, cudanakiju.pl

Cześć It started as a café, but now Cześć is better known as being at the forefront of the new generation of ‘quali-tap’ bars – small little places with six or so beers on tap. The two owners, Piotrek and Kuba, take their beer seriously, so do expect plenty of new finds as well as traditional favorites from stalwarts like the Artezan and Pinta breweries. The laidback, neighborhood atmosphere is making it increasingly popular with a tight-knit circle of ex-pat drinkers. (C3) ul. Grzybowska 2 (through the side passage), czesc.waw.pl

Drugie Dno To plug into the pounding heart of Warsaw’s craft beer scene, look no further than Nowogrodzka. Joining the ranks of the street’s multi-tap bars is Drugie Dno, a three-level space that’s been themed to evoke the look of a disused power station.

Sporting rugged brickwork and a scuffed style, the industrialized look has been amped up to the max through the use of steel girders, vintage voltage meters and toilets disguised as elevator shafts. (D5) ul.

Nowogrodzka 4

Hoppiness You’re in good hands here – opened under the patronage of the Pracownia brewery, this small-scale operation goes beyond merely offering the beers of its sponsor.

There’s 12 taps in all, a decent fridge to geek over, an ace burger and beer-based ice cream – hooray! (D4) ul. Chmielna 27/31, Jabeerwocky Steeped in multinational drunken babble, the super sociable Jabbers is famed for its innovative beer selection and convivial atmosphere. Mark it down as an absolute must-visit, especially if you’re a fan of stout and cider. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 12,

Małe Piwo Oleandrów’s reawakening began on this very spot! Opened six years back, MP preempted the craft beer trend to become one of Warsaw’s first places for something better than a pint of Piss-kie.

Looking wholly unfinished and fashionably distressed, it’s got that New York dive vibe down to a tee – you imagine The Strokes rolling in right after band practice.

taproom.pl

(D7) ul. Oleandrów 4

Kufle i Kapsle All levels of drinkers are catered for in this raw-looking space, from those ready to pay nosebleed prices for beers with spaceships on the label, right the way down to novices taking their first baby steps in the world of craft booze. Interiors are balanced with the pre-war heritage of the place, and are thick with noise, clamor and the spell of spillage. Unisex toilets, meaning there’s usually one idiotka putting a spanner in the queue code. (D5)

Maryensztadt Craft Beer It’s a mixed crowd of locals and tourists that gather in Maryensztadt, a large bar whose 12 taps showcase the highs (and occasional lows) produced by the brewery that gives this pub its name. Set across a series of cavernous chambers inside an attractive Old Town property, its not just beer buffs that it appeals to: sourcing their ingredients from small-scale farmsteads, the kitchen wing of Maryensztadt does a convincing job of representing the tastier side of regional Poland. (D1)

hoppiness.ontap.pl

ul. Nowogrodzka 25, kufleikapsle.pl

Gorączka Złota Founded in 1996, Złota’s longevity is to be admired, even if the interiors aren’t.

Small, dark and a little pungent, the interiors are rendered out of little more than varnished wood and hundreds of beer coasters. But that’s the clue! The secret of their success is down to the beer. Stocking a range of regional and craft beer, this bar has an underlying honesty that makes it a success. (D5) ul.

Wilcza 29, goraczka-zlota.com.pl

Heritage Birreria Artigianale A new twist on the multi-tap concept, Heritage’s hook is their obsession with Italian and British gypsy breweries. Eyes naturally fall on ten taps dispensing beers from Thornbridge, San Gabriel, Birrificio Milano, etc., and while the drawn-out pouring time can frustrate, most agree that the drinks are worth the wait. Find a well-presented middle-aged crowd squashed inside a tiny little unit that’s often full to capacity. Stop Press: closed.

(E3) ul. Tamka 9, fb.com/HeritageBirreria Artigianale

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painted space whose minimal design is punctuated with the occasional lantern, clock and reject store sofa. The four beer taps see frequent rotation and the fridge is kept busy with new wave beer. Stop Press: closed. (E4) ul. Smolna 36

ul. Szeroki Dunaj 11

Kufle i Kapsle Żoliborz While Nowogrodzka is the beating heart of the tap bar trend, not even the suburbs are safe from this flourishing movement. By expanding out to Żoliborz, Kufle i Kapsle have cornered a captive market. There’s just seven taps here, but they’re a magnificent seven – find a great representation of Polish craft draught, not to mention a satisfying selection of international bottles. The moderate size works it in its favor, lending it a neighborly atmosphere which sees first-timers quickly converted into returning regulars. ul. Popiełuszki 19/21, kufleikapsle.pl

Machinarium Unfurling in a metallic greenish haze the ground floor isn’t too dissimilar from a ship’s hull: the bar is all bolts and rivets, and the whole ‘age of travel’ theme is further explored through illustrative paintings of steam engines, zeppelins and other flying contraptions – Jules Verne would love it. The basement offers something else entirely: a rambling white

Piw Paw We don’t like: the sweaty toilet, strange smells nor the scrum at the bar. We do like: the 24hr opening hours, humongous fridge and 50+ taps. Seen in the light it’s a little depressing, so visit at night when Parkingowa takes on the look of an endof-term street party. (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34 (enter from ul. Parkingowa), piwpaw.pl

Same Krafty Occupying two narrow, rugged rooms, Same Krafty have rescued Old Town from big beer brands peddling piss. Offering artisan alternatives, this intimate bar has become a magnet for those looking to explore the more subversive side of Polish brewing. (D1) ul. Nowomiejska 10, samekrafty.pl

Same Krafty Vis-à-vis You wouldn’t have thought it a year back, but reasons keep emerging to drink in the Old Town. When it comes to pubs, Same Krafty top the list, but try getting served at

DRINK! Listings peak drinking time. So here’s some brilliant news: they’ve now opened another bar opposite. Pass under a dragon’s head before stepping into a supremely friendly room with ten taps, a strong bottle line-up and an atmospheric side chamber. (D1) ul.

masters as a well-stocked bar area decorated with quotes from jazz legends.

Open from Tuesday till Saturday, evenings see local and international musicians take to the stage. (D6) ul. Noakowskiego 16, 12on14club.com

Nowomiejska 11/13, samekrafty.pl

Spiskowcy Rozkoszy The ground floor is an intimate space with lots of yet-to-be-famous beers and junky, antique furniture that reminds of the Boho hangouts in Kraków. But what was a packed, little bar is now a packed, big bar with the opening of the basement: find a labyrinth of rooms and psychedelic toilets with pulsating lights – you soon wonder who spiked your drink. And oh, the drinks.

Expect IPA and APA beers served from the six taps. (D5) ul. Żurawia 47/49, spiskowcy.pl The Taps No longer a niche movement, the opening of The Taps is another sign of craft beers mainstream market penetration. Set on the once super trendy Sienkiewicza, hopes are high that the opening of this three-floor drinking den could yet revive the fortunes of this street. Appealing to a young, pre-club crowd, the industrial / loft-style décor feels rather contrived and a little too polished. ul. Sienkiewicza 4 Warzą się Losy “Nowhere in Warsaw,” boasts the barman, “has more beer taps per square meter.”

Despite its diminutive footprint, WsL punches above its weight with eight taps turning out new generation Polish beer.

Decked out like an anechoic chamber, the combination of good beer and mouse hole dimensions mean that it doesn’t take long for conversations to crossover with the scattering of strangers at the bar. Soon enough everyone’s drinking together and toasting the night. (D7) ul. Oleandrów 3

live music 12on14 Jazz Club Warsaw has a rich tradition of jazz, so you have to sometimes wonder, just where the hell are all the jazz bars? In 12on14’s case, down a courtyard and through a side entrance. Dark, smart and sophisticated, here’s a place that’s fitted out with framed portraits of sax tooting

Chwila Entered under a red, cabaret-style awning, Chwila is a reject factory space turned good. Furry cushions, patchwork quilts and student art vie for attention alongside iron girders and industrial leftovers inside what is becoming known as one of the top alternative music venues this side of the river. The toilet alone, papered with trillions of cool posters and magazine covers, is a reason to linger. (B3)

champion flair bartender. More than just show, the tastes are incredible. (C2) ul.

Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl

Pyk i Łyk Thundering through a flimsy door, customers are met by a tiny, divey area that’s devoid of furnishings aside from shelves of vodka and a bar that’s been painted to depict dripping blood. Yikes!

Decorated with bizarre montages of hard drinking rockers, once visitors settle into their vodka rhythm, it reveals itself as a bar of greatness. “No wi-fi,” shouts one sign, “talk to each other and get drunk.”

It’s that kind of place. (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 26

ul. Ogrodowa 31/35

wine bars

Hydrozagadka Set out in the wildlands of Praga, consider Hydrozagadka as the heart of unforced cool. Known for its alternative music scene, the low-ceiling and tight, crowded nature of it generate an electrifying atmosphere where the audience and band become one. Walking a fine line between industrial and straight out decrepit, the atmosphere is second to none: drinks flow, strangers meet and music smashes out: you can feel something special happening here. ul. 11 Listopada 22,

Ale Wino!

At first you think you’re walking into a car park. And then, it hits you – a beautiful inner-city sanctum with wooden decking, a slanted sail shielding the sun, and bespoke, funky chairs from the esteemed Studio Rygalik. You want to dwell here for a bit longer than planned: and there’s no harm in doing so. One of the Insider’s favorite wine bars, Ale Wino’s food is also top-notch (E5) ul. Mokotowska 48, alewino.pl

hydrozagadka.waw.pl

vodka Bar Warszawa Thick with alcoholic fumes and the sound of drunken tantrums, Bar Warszawa excels in its role as a late night dive bar.

Split on two levels, upstairs is where most head to flop around a retro lounge interior filled with nostalgic decorations that tempt kleptomaniacs. The cut price shots and pints do their bit in facilitating slurred conversations with a variety of strangers.

Not surprisingly, evenings often extend beyond the advertised closing time of 4 a.m. (D2) ul. Miodowa 2, barwarszawa.pl Dom Wódki Those expecting Dom Wódki to be a standard mucky shot bar are in for a surprise.

Sparkling with over 250 artisanal vodkas, find them incorporated into inspirational drinks mixed by Tomasz Małek, a world

Bubbles Despite sounding like a 90s small town nightclub, Bubbles is in fact a worthy place of note: a small, warm venue with a slow food menu and a design that incorporates lots of upturned crates and dusty bottles. Champagne is the main draw here, with many labels that are exclusive to Poland. Some come with terrifying prices, but on the whole the price points are widely accessible: wine from zł. 10 and a flute of champers from zł. 29.

(D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, bubbles.com.pl

Dekant Wine Bar Set inside an attractive open space, the opening of Dekant is a further indication of Powiśle’s shift from hipster epicenter to upscale playground (Robert Lewandowski has been spotted here!). The list comprises over 400 wines from the most prestigious producers in the world, right the way down to tiny, little vineyards you’ve probably never heard of. If the sun is out, aim for a place on their back terrace. (E3) ul. Zajęcza 15, dekant.com.pl warsawinsider.pl

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DRINK! Listings

JUICE BARS Corona Sok i Mus Inconspicuous by its size, this pit stop consists of nothing more than a counter and display fridge, yet already it’s carved a 24-carat reputation for cold-pressed juices and small, jarred mousses. Made using local seasonal fruit and veg, then topped with superfoods and spices, the quality of Corona’s products have made it a standout.

(D6) ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki), fb.com/coronasokimus

Juice Press People Sick and tired of being sick and tired? This two-level cubbyhole offers an easy way to cleanse and detox the body: cold-pressed from organic, locally sourced fruit and veg, find an array of juices lined up on parade in the fridge, as well as a variety of coffees that make use of chemix, aeropress and drip techniques.

(D4) ul. Bracka 18

Think Love Juices Nutrition nut and supermodel Anna Jagodzińska reveals the secrets of her diet in this whiteclad, summery-looking Saska café. As the name indicates, juice plays a massive part in that, with the rotating choice presenting a range of drinks that run from watermelon water all the way up to complex concoctions that ignore any shortcuts. The daily changing lunch deals are superb, but leave you in no doubt just why models are so skinny. (H4) ul.

Francuska 14, thinklove.pl

Dyletanci Often filled to capacity with crisp, modern citizens that radiate confidence, join them on green banquettes illuminated with Tom Dixon lamps. The wine list is fitting of the A-list, and aside from exceptional international choices, also includes interesting wines from the proprietor’s own label – a frankly superb Polish brand called Dom Bliskowice. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44, dyletanci.pl

Enoteka It’s the wine bar New Town has been waiting for ever since… the old Enoteka closed. The eagerly awaited return brings with it a new location – right on the corner of New Town Square and a wine list from curated by importer Maciej Bombol. (D1) Rynek Nowego Miasta 13/15, enotekapolska.pl

4, nowina.waw.pl

Hoża You’ll probably know Hoża as the home of steak. But what is meat without wine? complementing the Argentine-inspired cooking is a wine list particularly dense with reds. (D5) ul. Hoża 25a, hoza.warszawa.pl

Pani Wina Tucked down an upcoming stretch of Wilcza, the interiors play-up to the pre-war heritage of the building with the elegantly demure decorations anchored around mustard-colored banquettes, olive green walls and immaculate parquet flooring: smart, soothing and even pretty sexy. In rhythm with the times, it’s the first wine bar in Warsaw where bushy beards, tatts and hip, casual fashion are the dominant sight.

Kieliszki Na Hożej Already celebrated for their operation on Próżna, this latest branch continues in much the same vein: classy interiors, a prime location on one of Warsaw’s few surviving pre-war streets and a casual bistro vibe matched up against a glorious Italian influenced wine list. The concise food menu connects local Polish to classic French and adds an interesting modern twist. ul. Hoża 41, kieliszkinahozej.pl Mielżyński Wine Bar Robert Mielżyński, a Canadian-born oenologist, awakened Warsaw’s love affair with the grape when he launched Mielżyński in 2004, and it continues to serve as the accepted benchmark to which all wine bars aspire. Their cause is amply boosted by a fine selection of bites to accompany the superlative wine offer. Find it in a pared down warehouse that emanates casual city cool. (A1) ul.

Mielzynski Wine Bar After three years in the pipeline Warsaw’s second outpost of Mielżyński is everything

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Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2017

mielzynski.pl

Nowina Though only opened towards in January, Nowina have thus far chalked up a bundle of five star reviews. Helping in the achievement of that has been a striking interior that catches the eye from across the street – restored pre-war tiling, glinting surfaces, a world map rendered from corks and an engaging reddish glow all do their bit to lend Nowina the kind of atmosphere that’s missing in most local wine bars. Add to that an exciting international menu and a selection of over 400 wines and you have an absolute winner. ul. Nowogrodzka

Burakowska 5/7, mielzynski.pl

you’d expect: the concise menu is never too complex while the exciting wine choice presents over 500 labels.

This vibrant warehouse-style space promises much. (G9) ul. Czerska 12,

(E5) ul. Wilcza 11, fb.com/PaniWina

Winosfera Once a pre-war cinema, now a stunning wine bar / store with one of the most impressive collections in Poland: an expense account comes in handy.

Equally notable is the ambitious fine dining menu of Jakub Adamczyk. (B3) ul.

Chłodna 31, winosfera.pl

Żurawina Lacking in intimacy, this large white room gets criticized for its jarring artwork and staffing blips – in the world of wine it’s important the customer can connect to the staff: here, we felt like we were joining the SS. But both food and wine score highly, and they’ve earned a staunchly loyal following that includes high flying types and Paris Hilton wannabes that carry yappy dogs in their bag.

(D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34, zurawina.eu

DO! NEWLY OPENED

FALL FASHION

Inspiring, unpretentious and highly creative, Viola Śpiechowicz reinvisions what it means to be feminine by giving classic styles a progressive edge. “It is misleading to believe that clothes are only about outward appearance,” says the Łódź-born designer, “those who choose this clothing are individualists and artistically expressive women.” Two years after being named the Best Look at New York Fashion Week, the summer opening of her new city center boutique is confirmation of her ongoing relevance to Polish fashion.

Viola Śpiechowicz ul. Chopina 5B, violaspiechowicz.com

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DO! Seasonal Roundup For the true taste of autumn there’s not much that beats a soul-warming cider. Famed for producing Poland’s best pint of apples, Kwaśne Jabłko is the final word when it comes to lazy weekends. Rustic yet contemporary, this upmarket Warmian farmhouse offers the full-on agro-touristic experience, right down to the squawking wildlife that occasionally ambles past. kwasnejablko.pl Unleash your inner seven-year-old by spending a night in a tree house. W Drezwach in Nałęczów and Siedlisko Sobibór each offer snug, Scandistyle accommodation in small cabins mounted on stilts. In the latter, accommodation overlooks a quiet, misty meadow; in the former, a densely wooded ravine. Both leave visitors feeling utterly off-grid: bring a hamper full of wine and don’t ask about wifi. wdrzewach.pl / siedliskosobibor.pl For smashing pumpkins, not to mention ‘a musical maze’ built from bales of hay, a sausage grill and a petting zoo filled with cute, cuddly animals that only sometimes chomp your fingers, head to Farma Dyń. Open until October 31st, find this pumpkin farm on ul. Przyczółkowa 2k down in the furthest depths of Wilanów. farmadyn.pl

AMBER GOLD

Though brief, no other season captures the full beauty of Poland better than autumn. Here’s how to enjoy it to the max...

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Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2017

Forget the posing peacocks of Łazienki, the star of the autumn is the cheeky red squirrel. Still abundant in number, find the puff-cheeked creatures darting around Warsaw’s parks with no fear of man. To stage your own David Attenborough vid all you need is a bag of nuts and a half decent camera – Facebook fame awaits.

SHUTTERSTOCK

Set thirty-five clicks south of Warsaw, Czersk Castle positively glows in the golden warmth of the autumn sun.

Built at the turn of the 14th century, the ruins of this red brick castle make for a pleasant day trip from town: perched above rolling riverside terrain, the tower offers sweeping views over the billiard green fields. Though small in size, the castle has just enough historical significance to keep you interested. zamekczersk.pl

Built as Poland’s first ‘garden city’, Podkowa Leśna is just a 30 minute drive south-west of Warsaw. Visitors are rewarded by a lush, affluent town whose tree-lined avenues are studded with the grand gated mansions of Poland’s top 1%. It’s an atmospheric walk that’s best appreciated with a wispy mist in front and glistening foliage on the floor.

Muffle up against the crisp, chill winds and take to the lakes for some autumn sailing. More ambitious seadogs will head the short distance north to Zegrze Reservoir, though most will be content to stick to the calm, gentle waters by Wilanów Palace. The carrot and cinnamon colors of the trees feel all the more vivid when offset against the dark, shimmering waters.

Despite being one of the world’s great ancient forests, Białowieża finds itself at the center of a government-sanctioned logging scandal that threatens its existence. Looking like something

from Lord of the Rings, this dense, dark woodland dates from the Ice Age and is home to lynx, wolves and wondering herds of wild, grunting bison.

There is never a bad time to visit, but there is definitely a best time: that’s autumn, when the forest expresses itself in a big bang of color. Accommodation options are numerous, and include a luxurious Tsarist railway carriage (Carska), to more rough and rustic lodgings at the charming Sioło Budy. carska.pl / siolobudy.pl Go for a hike or take a bike: Warsaw itself scrubs up pretty nicely in Autumn, and that specifically applies to the wild side of the Wisła. Untouched by the aggressive development that the left bank has undergone, the eastern rump offers a cat’s cradle of pathways that ribbon through the undergrowth. Further yonder, head to Kampinos National Park to the North West of the city. Added to UNESCO’s list of biosphere reserves in 2000, it’s a ravishing kaleidoscope of autumnal sensations.

Forget the posing peacocks of Łazienki, the star of the autumn is the cheeky red squirrel

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DO! Calendar For further info, see: biegnijwarszawo.pl

EDITOR’S PICK Warsaw Tattoo Convention 6-8 Oct @ Legia Stadium, ul. Łazienkowska 3

Those with a love for ink and piercings need look no further this month than the 5th Warsaw International Tattoo Convention – it’ll inspire and alarm in equal measure. For details, see: tattooconvention.waw.pl Tickets from zł. 25 @ ebilet.pl

ART

Escape Rooms Ongoing till 31 Oct @ Nowogrodzka 46

Launched at the tail end of September, the appearance of this pop up gallery could possibly be the most significant artistic happening in Warsaw’s recent years. Aiming to bridge the gap between street art and mainstream contemporary art, this two floor space shall present the latest works of Cekas, Lump, Monstfur, Nawer, Simpson and Wybuch Wielki.

F E S T I VA L

Avant Art Festival 2-10 Oct @ various venues

This film / music / performative festival will feature jazz improv sessions, ‘brutal disco explorations’, a ‘wall of techno sounds’ and ‘a wave of grime’. Among the international acts appearing will be Black Dice, JK Flesh, Actress and Babyfather.

For further info, see: avantart.pl

The largest ‘fun run’ in Poland follows a ten kilometer route and is held in conjunction with the Maszeruję – Kibicuję walk.

Established as one of Warsaw’s favorite public sporting events, the run is expected attract over 13,000 participants.

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21 Oct @ ul. Mińska 65

Legends 7th Birthday 6 Oct @ ul. E. Plater 25, Legends

The only surviving and truly authentic British pub in Poland celebrates its seventh birthday the only way it knows how: by getting everyone drunk! A long, epic night comes all but guaranteed.

F E S T I VA L

4-6 Oct @ ul. Dzielna 24/26, Museum of Pawiak Prison

13-22 Oct @ various locations

For details, see: muzeum-niepodleglosci.pl C U LT U R E

Films For Food 5-7 Oct @ ul. Andersa 5, Kino Muranów

Held either side of screenings of Brandon Loper’s A Film About Coffee will be coffee-related workshops, tastings and discussions. Present will be players from Warsaw’s coffee world, among them representatives from Java, Kofi Brand and Stor Cafe.

For further info, see: kinomuranow.pl

Migawki z Warszaway 1 Oct, 12:00 @ city center

SOCIAL

Days of Remembrance

EXHIBITION

Biegnij Warsaw

HOME & DESIGN

Free admission

A series of tours, exhibitions, seminars and discussions are planned as part of a series of events that commemorate ‘the memory of the martyrdom and heroism’ of the people who passed through this notorious prison.

5-26 Oct @ ul. Karowa 20, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście

Organized by Dom Spoktań z Historią, Snapshots From Warsaw presents ninety previously unpublished photos by West German journalist Hans Joachim Ortha.

Taken between 1959 and 1970, they’re a fascinating glimpse into a Brave New Poland still recovering from the war and adapting to

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2017

For further info, see: restaurantweek.pl

For further info, see: dsh.waw.pl

C U LT U R E

Free admission

RUN

communism. Find the exhibition in the public space outside the Church of Visitation.

Warsaw Film Festival The WFF has evolved into one of the most prestigious festivals that Warsaw has on offer. The festival showcases the best of Polish, European and international cinema, with a mission statement to increase international awareness of Polish film and culture. Audience interaction is encouraged by way of meetings and seminars with those involved in the industry.

Przerób Volume 3 This festival of handicrafts, sewing, craftwork and upcycling will gather together scores of exhibitors at the forefront of Poland’s design revolution. This is your chance to meet them and familiarize yourself with their work. Special guests include Jimi Ogden of HGTV. For further info, see: fb.com/ PimpitPL CONCERT

Nick Cave & The Bad Seeds 24 Oct @ Torwar, ul. Łazienkowska 6

Lauded as “one of the most original and celebrated bands of the post-punk and alternative rock eras from the 80s onwards,” Nick Cave and his accompanying Bad Seeds return to Warsaw on the back of the highly successful 2016 album, Skeleton Tree.

Tickets from zł. 179 @ livenation.pl

For further info, see: wff.pl

F E S T I VA L F E S T I VA L

Ochota Blues Festival

14-25 Oct @ various locations

26-28 Oct @ ul. Grójecka 75, OKO

For further details, see: korczak-festival.pl

For further info, see: fb.com/ osrodekkulturyochoty

Korczak Festival Held in selected theaters around town, the Korczak festival is a celebration of dramatic art aimed at children and adolescents. To meet this end, a series of performances, workshops and exhibitions have all been lined up for the 21st edition of this popular event.

Organized on an annual basis since 2010, the Ochota Blues Festival is the only one of its kind in the capital. Past acts have included international performers such as Noel Coutts, Ryan McGarvey, Joe Colombo and Eddie Angel.

FOOD

CONCERT

20-31 Oct @ various locations

28 Oct @ Stodoła, ul. Batorego 10

Warsaw Restaurant Week Over 80 restaurants have signed up for the latest edition of Restaurant Week: the concept is simple – choose a restaurant and a date, pay the princely sum of zł.

49, and then enjoy a three-course set menu meal.

Nelly

Ranked the fourth best-selling rapper in American history, Grammy winning Nelly arrives in Poland with a stellar reputation as one of the most successful hip hop artists the world has seen.

Tickets from zł. 129 @ livenation.pl

DO! Calendar

JCC 4th Anniversary

Time for Chopin

Running now for over a year, the Time for Chopin initiative presents daily concerts at 6 p.m. inside the Old Gallery of the Association of Polish Art Photographers.

The 50-minute recitals include the composer’s greatest mazurkas, polonaises, waltzes, preludes, etc.

21 Oct @ ul. Chmielna 9A, JCC

Warsaw’s Jewish Cultural Center will be marking its fourth anniversary with a Havdalah ceremony to signal the end of Shabbat, stand-up performances, and a dance party led by DJ Varjat.

For tickets, schedule and further information, see: timeforchopin.com

Free admission

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KINOTEKA • MULTIKINO TICKETS online at www.wff.pl since 5 October

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all screenings with English subtitles

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Projekt współfinansuje m.st.Warszawa

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DO! Education listings preschools American School of Warsaw American School of Warsaw provides a rich, meaningful and balanced educational experience through age-appropriate activities to students aged 3 to 5. For further information and/or to visit our school, contact:admissions@aswarsaw.org or 22 ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel.

22 702 85 00, aswarsaw.org 702

85 00.

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Science, Physical Education, Art, Music & Rhythmics, French and Polish classes. ul.

Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, canadian-school.pl

The British School Early Years Centre The British School provides EYFS classes from Pre-nursery (age 30 months) to Reception (5 years old). Children develop quickly and their Early Years practitioners aim to do all they can to help your child have the best possible start in life and become a lifelong learner. ul. Dąbrowskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646 7777 , thebritishschool.pl

The British Primary School of Wilanów Following the National Curriculum of England and Wales, this is the first School in Poland subject to the inspection of the UK Independent School Inspectorate. Pupils receive British and, upon request, Polish reports/ diplomas. The school follows a closed admissions policy and limits enrollment of one nationality to below 50% of

each class starting from Year 1. ul. Hlonda 12, bsww.pl

The Canadian School of Warsaw Preschool Welcoming students from the ages of 2.5 to 6 years old, currently 45% of their admissions are international students. The dedicated, IB-trained teachers deliver an innovative program (PYP) in English designed for modern world needs. The program offers a combination of Literacy, Maths, Social Studies,

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2017

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations) Warsaw Montessori School Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have three green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in earlychildhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob.

692 099 134, warsawmontessori. edu.pl

International Trilingual School of Warsaw Established in 1994, the Trilingual School of Warsaw

offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fillimmersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/ saint-exupery.pl

The English Playhouse The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old. For more info or to arrange a tour call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email: jnowak@ theenglishplayhouse.com ul.

Pływiańska 14a, tel. 22 843 9370, tep.edu.pl

DO! Education listings Happy Montessori House The Happy Montessori House offers part-time and full-time places for children aged between 2 to 6 years, as well as toddler-focused activities (from 18 months to 3 years) centered around movement, sensorial stimulation, storytelling, singing and socializing.

Warsaw Montessori Pre-school, ul. Rumiana 14, tel. 22 423 50 75, mob. 697 060 504, hmh.com.pl

Maple Tree Montessori Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological

& healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). ul.

Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, mapletreemontessori.pl

Międzynarodowa Szkoła Podstawowa Argonaut This elementary school is open for children of all nationalities and backgrounds. It places a focus on learning English as well as additional languages, and has an attractive list of available extracurricular activities.ul. Radarowa 6, tel. 504 509 504, argonaut.edu.pl

Montessori Academy for International Children An English-speaking preschool (16 months to 6 years

of age) with two locations. The school’s policy is to comply with Montessori standards, using the Montessori Method in English. The school’s philosophy is based on the joy of learning, which comes from discovering and furthering the individual development of each child. ul. Królewicza Jakuba 36 (Wilanów), ul. Sadowa 4 (Konstancin), Open 8:00-16:45, tel. 502 315 022, montessoriacademy.eu

schools American School of Warsaw ASW is a premier collegepreparatory international school that offers a PK-12

curriculum, including the IB Diploma Program in Grades 11 and 12. Students are inspired and challenged every day by experienced and dedicated teachers, who provide enriching learning opportunities in a world class facility. For further information contact: admissions@ aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00. ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, aswarsaw.org

The British Primary School of Wilanów Following the National Curriculum of England and Wales, this is the first School in Poland subject to the inspection of the UK Independent School Inspector-

Celebrating

25 years of

British Education in Warsaw

www.thebritishschool.pl

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DO! Education listings ate. Pupils receive British and, upon request, Polish reports/ diplomas. The school follows a closed admissions policy and limits enrollment of one nationality to below 50% of each class starting from Year 1. ul. Hlonda 12, bsww.pl

The British School Premium international school established in 1992 by Nord Anglia Education. The curriculum is designed to provide the highest academic quality of education. They follow the English National Curriculum, adapted to the needs of their international student community: from Primary through to the Secondary Key Stages to the IGCSE examinations and a

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well-established International Baccalaureate (IB) Diploma Program. ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, thebritishschool.pl

ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, warsawmontessori.edu.pl

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations) Warsaw Montessori School Guided by trained specialists, students will be responsible for managing their household, operating small businesses, caring for local flora and fauna as well as domesticated animals, taking charge of the younger children and much more. “Adolescence Program” activities, integrated with academic studies, help students discover their inner strength to meet life’s real challenges.

The English Primary The English Primary is designed specifically for children in the primary education ages, just as children experience in England but in an international community.

Pupils are taken through the key learning stages so that they can achieve to the best of their ability through a fun learning experience. The Core Curriculum subjects include English, Phonics, Science, Mathematics, French, PE and Swimming, Music, Personal,

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2017

Social and Health Education. ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 784 037 808, tep.edu.pl

The Canadian School of Warsaw International Elementary and Middle School Located on two campuses in the Mokotów this is the only authorized IB School with PYP programs taught in English and Polish. French is taught as a third language. Offers a wide range of extra activities, a summer school, and employs a full time psychologist. Provision is made for additional Polish and English support.

International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create the

DO! Education listings perfect learning environment. ul. Bełska 7, tel. 692 411 573 / 885 420 044, secretary@canadianschool.pl or secretary.olimpijska@ canadian-school.pl

International Trilingual School of Warsaw Established in 1994, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and

pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fillimmersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel.

501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16,

tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/saint-exupery.pl

Monnett International School Located in Mokotów, the Monnett is the only school in Poland that implements the International Baccalaureate Program from kindergarten level all the way through to secondary school. The fullyqualified staff are committed

to delivering only the highest standards of education. ul.

Stępińska 13, tel. 22 852 06 08, maturamiedzynarodowa.pl

Warsaw Montessori School Focuses on the Montessori curriculum with an education based on the integration of conceptual learning and real-life experiences. ul.

Szwoleżerów 4, tel. 22 841 3908, warsawmontessori.edu.pl

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DO! Health & Beauty listings gyms Artis Wellness Club Found in Royal Wilanów, this state-of-the-art gym boasts the latest technological advances in personal fitness, as well as a massive program of courses that range from group cycling and yoga to Zumba and body combat. ul.

Klimczaka 1 (Royal Wilanów), artisclub.pl

Holmes Place Energy High standard equipment, personal training and group classes. Six month membership available for approx. zł.

200 per month, though prices are subject to change. Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (C.H. Arkadia), ul.

Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), holmesplace.pl

Holmes Place Premium Three ‘premium locations’, with the Hilton and Regent branches housing a 25-meter pool. Sauna and steam room facilities are available in all all three, as are a varied timetable of classes plus personal training. ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel), ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), holmesplace.pl

Little Gym Targeted at children, expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-tochild ratio, original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. ul. Bruzdowa 56, thelittlegym.pl

McFit A 2,000 sq/m studio that utilizes the latest technology as well as ‘cyber training’ programs. Open 24/7, with membership from zł. 89 per month. ul. Świętokrzyska 3 (corner of Nowy Świat), mcfit.com

Quantum Fitness A place of quiet, understated

luxury, equipment is state-ofthe-art and complemented by expert trainers at the peak of their game. This is the full 24-carat gym experience. ul. Piękna 15, quantumpiekna.pl

Ride Warsaw Group cycling classes overseen by a team of English-speaking instructors.

This is not a leisurely Sunday pedal, but a high energy workout with a banging soundtrack and constant interaction. ul. Karolkowa 30, ridewarsaw.com

RiverView Wellness Centre Top-class facilities and equipment, private instructors and small classes. The view from the highest pool in Europe offers a glorious panorama of the city and is almost worth the membership fee alone.

Annual prices begin from around zł. 4,000. ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental), riverview.com.pl

hair & beauty Hair a Porter A staunch favorite among the ex-pat crowd, Hair a Porter offer the ultimate hair experience utilizing talented staff and topquality products. ul.

Belwederska 23 (Regent, level -1), hair-a-porter.pl

Le Spa This little island of peace and beauty takes you light-years away from the bustle of Warsaw. ul. Mokotowska 55

spas & salons

ouch!

DEPILACJA WOSKIEM

Ouch!

Experts in waxing, Ouch! aim their offer at ‘busy women looking for express treatments with lasting effects who, at the same time, appreciate a sense of intimacy’. ul. Belwederska 32; ul.

Bonifraterska 8, ouch.pl

PARDON MY FRENCH

manicure pedicure

Pardon My French Manicure and pedicure treatments with high quality lacquers and an awareness of the lastest global trends: if you need an endorsement, Paul McCartney visited when he was in Poland! ul.

Belwederska 32; Bonifraterska 8; ul. Mokotowska 56, ul. Wilcza 3. pardonmyfrench.pl

The Pedicure Place A luxury pedi/manicure clinic with room for 10. All the latest OPI varnishes and over 200 colors guarantee you’ll find the latest in styling and nail care. ul. Pokorna 2, pedicureplace.pl

Quantum Clinic Using first class, pioneering methods and technology, the Quantum Clinic surpasses the norms that Warsaw has become used to. ul. Piękna 15, quantumpiekna.pl

sport

Sinnet Club An exclusive members sport club featuring full-size indoor tennis courts, two external courts, three squash courts, a 25 meter swimming pool plus spa and gym facilities. ul.

Gołkowska 2, sinnet.pl

Warsaw International Triathlon Club Serving the needs of the athletic community, the WITC is open to all interested in the disciplines of swimming, cycling and running. warsawtriclub.com

W Pionie An 11 meter climbing wall founded by two mountaineers.

Considered one of the most advanced facilities of its kind in the country, English-speaking instructors can be rustled up on request. ul. Nowowiejska 37B, wpionie.pl

swimming Holmes Place Premium All the ‘premier’ outposts of Holmes Place tout swimming pools, though most agree it is the one in the Hilton branch that’s the best. ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel), ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), holmesplace.pl

RiverView Wellness Centre Another members only pool, and this one is really worth the membership cost – it’s the highest pool in Europe. Stunning views of Warsaw make this a swim to remember. ul.

Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental), riverview.com.pl

Nail & Beauty Bar A top spot for a classic manicure or pedicure – they also do lots of complicated things with gels and other hi-tech nail discoveries. ul.

BGZ Arena / Velodrome Bring a cycling helmet and you too can take a spin around the velodrome in Pruszków.

Priced at approximately at zł. 40 per hour. ul. Andrzeja 1

Wodny Park When looking for a pool, most look no further: on-site find an Olympic swimming pool, recreational pool complete with artificial river, slides and tubes, a Russian ‘banya’ zone.

Mokotowska 26

(Pruszków), bgzarena.com

ul. Merliniego 4, wodnypark.com.pl

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DO! Shopping Listings accessories

Bursztynek The largest amber jewelry store in Warsaw, though in addition to that visitors can also purchase unique amberrelated souvenirs as well as more classic gifts associated with Poland. Rynek Starego Miasta 4/6, bursztynek.co

Hard Rock Cafe No wardrobe is complete without the iconic Hard Rock t-shirt! Find the Warsawstamped version available here, along with other extras for the all American look. Złote

tory’, Mo61 allows customers to create their own scents under the expert guidance of staff trained by Zygmunt Marczewski (“the best nose in Poland”!). ul. Mokotowska 61, mo61.pl

Schubert Rings, bracelets, necklaces and watches produced using the finest Baltic amber. Or for a unique gift, how about an amber chess set or an amber cigarette lighter? ul.

Piwna 12/14, ul. Piwna 26, ul. Świętojańska 11, worldofamber.pl

fashion

Tarasy, hardrockcafe.pl

Mo61 Billed as a ‘perfume labora-

Moliera 2 Boutique Brands include: Alexandre

Birman, Alexandre Vauthier, Anya Hindmarch, Aquazzura, Balmain, Beach Bunny, Buscemi, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Francesco Russo, Gianvito Rossi, Herve Leger, Isabel Marant, Jimmy Choo, Kenzo, Kotur, Maison Michel, Moncler, One Teaspoon, Simonetta Ravizza, Tod’s, Tory Burch, Valentino, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon. ul.

Ravizza, Tom Ford, Tory Burch, Valentino, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon. Childrenswear: Burberry Children, Dsquared2 Kids, Kenzo Kids, Moncler Kids, Ralph Lauren Kids, Tod’s Kids. Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, plactrzechkrzyzy.com

home

Moliera 2, moliera2.com

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Brands include: Beach Bunny, Buscemi, Canada Goose, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Dsquared 2, Christian Louboutin, Fay, Gianvito Rossi, Hogan, Kenzo, Kotur, Moncler, Mr& Mrs Italy, One Teaspoon, Ralph Lauren, Simonetta

Porcelanowa Award-winning, contemporary Polish porcelain produced by cult, internationally recognized brands such as Aoomi and Fenek. ul. Kredytowa 2, porcelanowa.com

The Amber Heart of Warsaw

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DO! Accomodation Listings 5-Star Hotels

Bellotto ul. Senatorska 13/15, tel. 22 829 6444, hotelbellotto.pl

Marriott

Radisson Blu Sobieski

Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 6306, warsawmarriott.com

pl. Zawiszy 1, tel. 22 579 1000, sobieski.com.pl

Regent Warsaw Hotel

Mecure Warszawa Centrum

ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, reservations@regentwarsaw.com, regent-warsaw.com

ul. Złota 48/54, tel. 22 697 3999, mercure.com

ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1000, hotelbristolwarsaw.pl

ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6100, sheraton.pl

Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888, radissonblu.com/hotelwarsaw

H15 Boutique ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 553 8700, info@h15ab.com, h15ab.com

Hilton Warsaw ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555 / 800 44 11 482, hilton.com

InterContinental ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, warsaw.intercontinental. com

Novotel Warszawa (Airport) ul. 1-ego Sierpnia 1, tel. 22 575 6000

ul. Krucza 28, tel. 22 583 2100, mercure.com

apartments

Courtyard by Marriott Hotel (Airport)

InterContinental

ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 0100, warszawacourtyard.pl

ul. Emili Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, warsaw.intercontinental. com

Novotel Warszawa Centrum

MaMaison Residence Diana

ul. Marszałkowska 94/98, tel.

22 596 0000, novotel.com, accorhotels.com

ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 9100, mamaison.com/diana

Sofitel Warsaw Victoria

Polonia Palace Hotel

b&b

ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8011, sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com

Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. 22 318 2800, poloniapalace.com

Between Us Bed & Breakfast

Westin

Warsaw Plaza Hotel

Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, westin.pl

ul. Łączyny 5, tel. 885 886 100, warsawplazahotel.pl

ul. Bracka 20, tel. 22 8285417 (from 10 a.m. to 11p.m.), betweenus.eu

Boutique B&B

4-star hotels

3-star hotels

ul. Smolna 14/6, tel. 22 829 4800, bedandbreakfast.pl

Mamaison Le Régina Hotel Warsaw

Hampton by Hilton

Castle Inn

Chmielna Guesthouse

ul. Kościelna 12, tel. 22 531 6000, mamaison.com

ul. Wspólna 72, tel. 22 317 2700, hamptoninn3.hilton.com

Pl. Zamkowy, ul. Świętojańska 2, tel. 22 425 0100, castleinn.pl

ul. Chmielna 13, tel. 22 828 1282, chmielnabb.pl

w W a r s a www.city-tour.com.pl

Yellow Double-Decker Bus

Invites you to experience a panoramic tour of tourist attractions of the capital of Poland, Warsaw, in a relaxing and comfortable way.

Traveling over the course of approximately 1,5 hour, a double-decker bus will take you past many beautiful and interesting places of Warsaw, such as its interesting districts, palaces and churches, monuments and museums, parks and historical cemeteries, as well as the Jewish historical sites.

A GPS 12 language audio-guide, will give explanations and accompany you to make your ride a more adventurous, exciting and an unforgettable one.

Excellent Hop on Hop off and one trip service operates every day all year round.

5% DISCOUNT with this ad

Line approved by municipal authorities.

www.city-tour.com.pl

ul. Poleczki 35, tel. 22 373 37 00, hiexpress.com

Mercure Grand Warszawa Sheraton

Bristol Hotel

Holiday Inn Express Warsaw Airport

102 Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2017

+48 500 033 414

DO! Services Listings car rental

storage

Avis Fredrick Chopin Airport, tel. 22 650 4872, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 575 6583, Reservations: tel. 801 120 010, avis.pl

Move One Relocations Also immigration assistance, fine art shipping, pet transport and consulting services. ul. Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 8160, moveonerelo.com

Sixt Rent a Car ul. Arabska 9, tel. 22 511 1550, 22 511 1555, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 2031, sixt.pl

relocation companies Arkpol Specialists in international ‘door-to-door’ movals, with packaging, storage and customs clearance. ul. Słowikowskiego 27, arkpol.com

CorstJens Worldwide Movers Group ul. Nowa 23, Stara Iwiczna, corstjens.com

Euro Move International Movers ul. Kineskopowa 1, Piaseczno, euromove.pl

Więcej Miejsca Offers innovative, convenient, door-to-door storage & moving services. Order via their website or phone and the company’s driver will deliver sturdy plastic, tamper-proof bins for storing items such as clothes, books, documents, etc.

Tel. 733 002 014, wiecejmiejsca.pl

Relo Planet International, domestic and office removals, corporate and individual relocations, fine art shipping, storage, insurance, as well as a full range of assistance services (immigration, etc.). ul. Batalinou Platerówek 3, reloplanet.com

services Domestina Four-hour maid solutions ranging from zł. 129-142.

Offering full service, they’ll make your bed to match the standard of a five-star hotel, and clean every corner till your flat is spotless! Order and pay online via their Englishlanguage website. domestina.pl

networking InterNations Drawing professionals from home and abroad the mission of InterNations is to bring together ‘global minds’.

Check their web for news on their monthly meetings. internations.org

International Women’s Group of Warsaw Unites expat women in Warsaw and offers cultural, educational and recreational activities. Meetings are held on the second and fourth Monday of the month. iwgwarsaw.com Mums & Tots A volunteer group for mums

(and dads) of all nationalities – coffee mornings, play groups, art and music classes and nights out for parents; the list is endless. mumsandtots.pl

Professionals in Warsaw New to town? There’s few better ways to give your social life a jump start than popping along to one of the informal drinks mixers conducted by Professionals in Warsaw – all you have to do is buy your own drinks. fb.com/ProfessionalsInWarsaw

Toastmasters International Toastmasters is the international organization for improving public speaking and presentation skills. The local club meets every Wednesday at 19.00. toastmasters.org.pl

Warsaw Social Helping expats integrate with the locals, Warsaw Social has grown to become the biggest and most active events group in Warsaw: not just drinks, but also games nights, defense classes, quizzes, etc. warsawsocial.com

WARSAW at your fingertips...

Check Out The Insider Online Designed to reflect the nature of a dynamic and energizing capital, the Online Insider brings you unique digital features such as our weekly blog, the latest news and views from the streets, as well as all the regular features and reviews found in Poland’s premier English-language magazine.

See for yourself at: www.warsawinsider.pl

warsawinsider.pl

103

DO! Museums NEON MUSEUM

Car Museum From Lech Wałesa’s Volvo to Gomułka’s ZIS limo, from German wartime armor to a pretty-in-pink Buick Skylark: incredible in its peculiarity, the random layout, oily smells and cobwebbed corners only add to the sense of treading somewhere special. ul. Warszawska 21 (Otrębusy), muzuem-motorzyacji.com.pl

Copernicus Science Centre Featuring hundreds of interactive exhibitions, it’s a place that allows young and old alike to blast objects into space, experience an earthquake or steer exploratory robots. ul.

Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, kopernik.org.pl

CSW Situated in a baroque-style castle the center hosts artists from all over the world.

The on-site bookshop is of particular interest for artists and intellectuals. ul. Jazdów 2, csw.art.pl

Dom Spotkań z Historią The History Meeting House wins points for small but frequently excellent exhibitions that cover topics such as ‘rebuilding Warsaw’ and

‘Socialist Realist architecture.’

Z AC H Ę TA

ul. Okólnik 1, chopin.museum

ul. Karowa 20, dsh.waw.pl

Ethnographic Museum Considerably revamped to meet the demands and attention-spans of the 21st century sightseer, the Ethnographic Museum is a visual pleasure that showcases colorful costumes, fabrics and ceramics from Poland and beyond. ul. Kredytowa 1,

The Heritage Interpretation Center This small venue tells the complex story of Old Town’s reconstruction: if the first section about Warsaw’s physical elimination is poignant, then the others do a fabulous job of sharing the optimism and alacrity that followed. ul.

Brzozowa 11-13, mhw.pl

ethnomuseum.pl

Fotoplastikon Thought to date from 1905, Warsaw’s Fotoplastikon generates 3D perspectives from a set of 2D images: visitors peer through an eyepiece and are taken on a trip around the world while music from days yore parps away in the background. Al. Jerozolimskie 51, fotoplastikonwarszawski.pl

Fryderyk Chopin Museum The 18th century Ostrogski Palace is the perfect foil for the ultra-modern content of this multi-sensory space. The personal items are enchanting, but the big victory here is the museum’s ability to suck visitors right back into the times of Chopin through the use of interactive sights and sounds.

104 Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2017

Invisible Exhibition Head to the Invisible Exhibition to learn first-hand the challenges faced by the blind.

This includes everything from crossing the road to ordering a drink in a bar. Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, niewidzialna.pl

Jewish Historical Institute Officially opened in 1947 the Jewish Historical Institute was created to serve as an archive of Jewish culture in Warsaw. It contains artwork, historical artifacts and important documents from the city’s rich Jewish past. ul.

spring of 1940. Beyond its quite staggering architectural merit, the museum has done a stunning job of collecting and presenting artifacts relating to the slaughter. ul. Jeziorańskiego 4, muzeumkatynskie.pl

Marie Skłodowska-Curie Musuem Reopened after a significant re-haul, this museum celebrates the groundbreaking scientist that discovered polonium. The Curie-osities include lab equipment, her trademark black dress and even her nail file. ul. Freta 16, en.muzeum-msc.pl

Museum of Communist Life Lovingly assembled by its young owner, the museum is split into a few different sections: one devoted to state and subversive literature, and another that recreates an empty store typical of the times. Our highlight, though, is the recreation of a commie-era apartment. ul.

Tłomackie 3/5, jhi.pl

Glucha (opposite Soho Factory), adventurewarsaw.com

Katyń Museum This museum commemorates the murder of 21,000 Polish officers by the Soviets in the

Museum of Praga The Praga Museum tells the story of the area with such charm and simplicity that it

DO! Museums M U S E U M O F WA R S AW

manages to leave an unlikely impression that’s as punchy as that of the big institutions.

Star billing goes to a restored Jewish prayer room and the Flying Carpet: an exhibit festooned with various trinkets and treasures once available for purchase from local pavement traders. ul. Targowa 50/52, muzeumwarszawy.pl

Museum of Warsaw Over 8,000 objects detail the story of Warsaw, and these include peculiar souvenirs, scale models, old postcards and recovered works of art.

Cohesive and comprehensive yet never too overwhelming, the trail climaxes with vertiginous views of the Rynek below. Unmissable.

ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org

Palmiry National Memorial Museum An excellent multimedia exhibition set next to a cemetery holding the graves of 1,700 Poles executed in the first years of Nazi occupation.

The museum tells their forgotten story as well as that of the siege and subsequent occupation of Warsaw. Palmiry, palmiry.mhw.pl

each covers a different stage of local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day. Highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec synagogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical inter-war Jewish Warsaw street. Named the European Museum of the Year in 2016. ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl

The Royal Castle in Warsaw Highlights include the lavishly restored 18th century royal apartments with 22 paintings

by Canaletto, the Senators’ Chamber in which the Constitution of the Third of May was signed, the biggest collection of oriental rugs in Europe and two remarkable Rembrandt paintings. Pl. Zamkowy 4,

National Museum Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars. Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.

Pawiak What was once a Tsarist prison assumed a doubly sinister function under the Nazis. Some 100,000 Polish political prisoners were held here, 37,000 of which were executed on-site. Split in two sections, cells are found on one side, while on the other the full story of the invasion and occupation. ul. Dzielna

art.pl

24/26

4/6, bursztynek.co

The Neon Museum Filled with salvaged signage,

Polin Composed of eight galleries,

Warsaw Rising Museum Cope with the crowds to

Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42, muzeumwarszawy.pl

this museum houses several dozen neons that once lit up the capital. The emphasis is firmly on the PRL era, a time when the nation’s best graphic designers were nutty for neon.

COPERNICUS

zamek-krolewski.pl

The Warsaw Amber Museum Part of Bursztynek, a dedicated amber shop, has been turned into a curious museum detailing the history of amber. Rynek Starego Miasta

discover the definitive story of the 1944 Uprising. Exhibits range from a full-size replica of a Liberator plane, to a sewer beneath the cinema screen and a slice of bread preserved from 1944. And don’t miss the ‘City of Ruins’, a five minute 3D film which takes you on an aerial journey over devastated Warsaw. ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl Wola Museum What was once a dreary old place has been rebooted as a smart community-minded museum and one of the most forward-thinking institutions in the capital. Bringing the wider area of Wola alive, find engaging content that’s creatively presented: posters, family memorabilia and various media relating to the area. ul. Srebrna 12, mhw.pl Zachęta National Art Gallery Regarded as one of Poland’s most prestigious galleries, the Zachęta has a busy program of temporary exhibitions that frequently showcase some of the biggest names in domestic and international contemporary art. Pl. Małachowskiego 3, zacheta.art.pl warsawinsider.pl

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Warsaw Guide

OCTOBERFLASH POINTS! Blast! Erroneous information meant we published news of Nocny Market’s annual obituary a month too early. Actually due its last outing of the year on October 8th, this outdoor urban food market has become an essential diary date for young foodies in the making. For full details, see: fb.com/ nocnymarket As one food market closes another one opens. Launched at the tail end of September, Hala Gwardii has the potential to become the coolest buzz in Warsaw.

Comparisons between Gwardii and Koszyki seem inevitable, and while both have been keen to downplay any rumor of a rivalry, Koszyki’s reaction to the new Hala in town should provide plenty of talking points in the months ahead. Let battle begin!

H A L A G WA R D I I

CZARNY PROTEST 2016

Though short-term footfall is assured, it remains to be seen if Poland’s first ‘cannabistro’ will prove to be a fleeting fad or something more substantial. Serving hemp burgers, cookies, cakes and tortillas (called spliffs), the management of Filipa z Konopi (ul. Wilcza 26/3) stress that everything for sale will be fully legal and won’t prompt you to ‘dance with any aliens on the table’. Opening at noon on October 18th, you might want to get there early if you fancy a seat – already over 8,000 people have expressed a similar interest in attending.

Czarny Protest returns! A year after over a quarter of a million people hit the streets of Poland to protest about proposed changes to the abortion law, another large scale demonstration has been planned to remind the government of the importance of women. This time around the march will begin at 5 p.m. on October 3rd – the area around Metro Centrum has been declared the muster point.

For the duration of October expect the local art crowd to be discussing little else other than the Escape Rooms exhibition. Spread across two levels, this pop-up gallery will feature the works of seven street artists inside six rooms, as well as a separate floor given over to sculpture. To check it out yourself visit Nowogrodzka 46.

106 Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2017

Warsaw Guide

THE ESSENTIALS...

Cut through the chaff and time manage your visit as effectively as possible. complex and often fraught Jewish history.

COMMUNISM

A full tour of Stalin’s Palace of Culture is a must: the basements are wild and the viewing terrace unimpeachable. Check the more ambient side to Communism in the Neon Museum and then visit The Museum of Life Under Communism: it’s tiny, but humorous, eccentric and highly informative. While you’re there, squeeze into a knackered militia wagon and take one of their commie-themed tours. Equally weird, check out a former nuclear bunker by visiting the once top secret Obieky Alfa (obiektalfa.pl).

MODERN WARSAW

PA R K M I N I AT U R

THE OLD…

The Old Town, raised from the rubble after WWII, is symbolic of this ‘phoenix city’, and fully deserving of its UNESCO listed status. In the square, the Museum of Warsaw is a great primer to the city. To soak in the extravagances of Poland’s imperial years, then Łazienki Park is essential, as is a visit to the Wilanów Palace: frequently termed as being ‘the Polish Versailles’, the gardens become a riot of autumn color in October. Elsewhere, kids and adults alike enjoy the Park Miniatur, a magical assembly of scale models of former landmarks – due to close at the end of the month, this is your last chance to visit one of Warsaw’s top attractions.

WWII

Memories of WWII still hang heavy.

108 Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2017

Learn about the 1944 Warsaw Uprising at The Rising Museum: it’s deservedly rated as among the most important cultural institutions in the country.

The Old Town’s ‘Heritage Centre’ documents the destruction of the city, while three separate museums, Pawiak, Szucha and Katyń, cover equally somber moments in Poland’s dark history.

JEWISH WARSAW

Though largely flattened, the former Jewish Ghetto contains numerous memorials, among them the Umschlagplatz installation that commemorates the deportations to Treblinka. The one synagogue that survived (Twarda 6) is the center of local Jewish life, while the innovative Polin covers all aspects of this nation’s

Wonder amid romping kids and whirring machines in the Copernicus Science Centre, and after take in the glorious dusk views on the rooftop garden of the University Library.

Across the river, the state-of-the-art National Stadium conducts regular tours, while Dom Kereta – dubbed the world’s narrowest house – holds monthly open days (fb.com/ domkereta).

ART

Serious art lovers flock to the National Museum for its determined presentation of art through the ages. The Zachęta, the Modern Art Museum and CSW are more alternative with captivating exhibitions that thrill non-conformists. That said, some of the city’s best art is found on its walls: Praga and Muranów are particularly known for their giant wall murals.

PEOPLE

Chopin, the city’s favorite son, looms large across Warsaw: the museum dedicated to his memory amazes by the breadth of its scope. Now reopened following a thorough refit, the Marie Curie Museum in New Town does a splendid job of remembering the world’s most famous female science boffin.

6

5

1

3 7 2 4

8

Stadion Narodowy

Żaryna

Kulskiego

Chodk iewicza

Biały K amień

8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Insider Finds

DINO-BUDDY

Found on Marszałkowska 41, for the last couple of years artist Mirella Von Chrupek has rented a display box once used by a cobbler to advertise his wares and utilized it to present seasonally changing ‘magical little worlds’. Of the recurring characters to have appeared in this tiny exhibition space, none have captured the imagination as much as Dino Bambino, a happy pink dinosaur with wide, trusting eyes and beautiful long lashes.

“She first appeared in the Gablotka gallery in autumn 2015,” continues Mirella, “and though it was the end of summer she enjoyed her time inside resting on the sand and staring at the sunset.” To mark the occasion of her second birthday, the original Dino has now returned in pocket-sized form and available for purchase.

Handmade using molds and resin casting, mini Dino’s have so far been shipped out to South Korea, Mexico, Canada and Australia. “She loves traveling and making new friends,” adds Mirella, “so I always encourage new owners to take photos of little Dino in various locations.” For your own Warsaw-born Dino (complete with travel bag, postcard and birth certificate!), order from: amomirella.com

112 Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2017

PHOTOGRAPH BY MAURYCY GOMULICKI

Warsaw’s wackiest memento? Step forward Dino Bambino...