Warsaw Insider April 2014 # 212

Six Senses Of Warsaw Explored page 18

Warsaw

Warsaw’s Top Restrooms page 24

Take A Trip To Toruń

Moving? page 26

April 04 price zł.10 INDEKS 334901 ISSN:1643-1723

(212)

2014

(VAT 8% included)

BALMAIN CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN HERVE LEGER ISABEL MARANT MONCLER GAMME ROUGE RALPH LAUREN SALVATORE FERRAGAMO SIMONETTA RAVIZZA TOD’S TORY BURCH VALENTINO

Moliera 2 tel.: 228277099, www.Moliera2.com

to our readers

APRIL 2014

SENSE & THE CITY

F

or the last few months people have been going around telling me it’s 2014. In fact, I even remember being invited to some sort of pub gala on December 31st to celebrate its coming. But for all the hooting and hollering and toasting of new beginnings, January felt the same. And so did February and March. Yippee Doo. April, however, truly is different. A color palette that for the last few months hasn’t deviated from one shade of grey – let alone fifty – has been replaced by a new box of paints: living here doesn’t feel like stepping into a black and white film anymore, on the contrary, it’s like walking into that annoying Sony advert with all those colored balls. Maybe I’m exaggerating a little (or a lot, same difference), but the truth is the punctual arrival of spring has brought with it a raft of positive changes: for starters, I don’t want to drink bleach whenever I open the curtains.

Neither have the changes just been visual. Spring brings with it a reawakening of all five senses, which is why we’ve chosen to dedicate this issue to just that (plus the all-important sixth sense for all you paranormal fruitcakes). We’ve also chatted to a ragbag collection of expats for their weirdest Warsaw recollections, and taken a detour to the home of crime dining: Toruń. Tying all that up, we’ve gone incognito to photograph the best toilets in Warsaw – and trust me, you’ll need to know them if you’re heading back from Toruń. As always, enjoy the issue and see you all next time. Oh, and happy new year!

(Illustration by Michał Miszkurka)

Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.com

THE ONLINE INSIDER www.warsawinsider.pl

Officially recognized as Poland’s premier Englishlanguage magazine, the Insider is delighted to announce the launch of its new look website. Designed to reflect the nature of a dynamic and energizing capital, the Online Insider sails you through one of Europe’s most exciting cities. In a fast evolving city, the Online Insider opens the door to Warsaw’s secrets, stories and latest scoops. Don’t let Warsaw leave you behind: • Full restaurant, nightlife, café and shopping listings • In-depth picks, past and present • Features

2

This issue we’ve got the riot of color that is Hala Mirowska, the logical opener to our ‘senses’ issue. See page 18

WARSAW INSIDER | APRIL 2014

• Calendar • City Search • Blog • Newsletter blasts

PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT

on the cover

MONCLER RALPH LAUREN SALVATORE FERRAGAMO TOD’S TORY BURCH VALENTINO

what’s inside 18

APRIL 2014

LISTINGS

Culture

Restaurants

Cafes & Wine Bars

Nightlife

Shopping

Children

Lifestyle

07 Opener Aleksander Gierymski 1850-1901 08 Calendar Music, art and events around town 12 Museums

Listings

On a high: the senses of Warsaw celebrated

31 Insider’s Pick Kafe Zielony Niedzwiedź 46 Insider’s Pick Wilczy Głod

65 Insider’s Pick

Duchnicka

Food & Wine 71 Insider’s Pick

Delirium

Warszawa 79 Insider’s Pick

Super Salon

INfront

15 News in Brief

Go-go a no no, bye bye Koszyki, hello

Lamborghini, plus new Michelin ratings

released

FEATURES

18 Sense and the City

Warsaw explored through the six senses

Editor-in-chief

Art Director

Publisher Advertising Manager Key Account Manager Key Account Manager Key Account Manager Distribution Manager

24 Kingdom of Thrones

Warsaw’s top restrooms laid bare 26 Travel: Toruń

Spotlight on Toruń: the gingerbread

captial of Poland 96 Why Warsaw?

Amazing true (in)sights!

Alex Webber awebber@valkea.com Kevin Demaria kdemaria@valkea.com Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com Agata Torańska atoranska@valkea.com Agnieszka Kuczyńska akuczynska@valkea.com A. Julita Pryzmont jpryzmont@valkea.com Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com

Contributors: Gill Boelman-Burrows Bobby Isaacs Karolina Kalinowska Michał Miszkurka Agnes Monod-Gayraud Christian Swindells Ed Wight

85 Insider’s Pick

Ethnographic

Museum 89 Insider’s Secret

Blow Up Hall

50 50 93 Classifieds 94 Warsaw Map

Subscription 12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland.

Orders can be placed through: insider@ warsawinsider.pl

Printed by Zakład Poligraficzny TECHGRAF Tel. (17) 225-28-69

VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies. All information ©2014 Warsaw Insider.

4

WARSAW INSIDER | APRIL 2014

Interview: Aleksander Gierymski 1850-1901 7 / 18th Beethoven Easter Festival 10

CULTURE

for more events visit: www.warsawinsider.pl

EVENTS 7 / MUSEUMS 10

Insider’s Pick EXHIBITION Aleksander Gierymski 1850-1901 National Museum in Warsaw, al. Jerozolimskie 3, www.mnw.art.pl

ALL PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF ORGANIZERS OR ARTISTS

F

ind the works of one of the most accomplished Polish painters of the 19th century in an exhibition that marks the completion of a certain cycle: it was with a Gierymski exhibition that the National Museum launched its operation at its new seat on Jerozolimskie.

The works brought together for this event comprise almost the entirety of Aleksander Gierymski’s surviving oeuvre – approximately 120 paintings and oil sketches, 66 drawings, and one sketchbook, complemented by almost 150 woodcuts based on Gierymski’s drawings and several photographs of the models who posed for him.

While most of these works have been culled from the museum’s own collection, others have been loaned by other museums, foreign institutions and private collections.

This rich body of works is arranged so as to trace the successive stages of Gierymski’s creative growth. The main narrative strand focuses on the artist’s experiments with analysing light phenomena and the possibilities for recreating them on canvas, and on his astuteness in matching his stylistics and technique to the nature of

the artistic issue which he had to address for purposes of the given painting. Key works include Italian Siesta, In the Arbour, Jewish Woman with Oranges and Feast of Trumpets, and they come paired with the artist’s preparatory sketches Particularly noteworthy is the comprehensive collection of woodcuts based on Gierymski’s drawings; generally underappreciated by art historians, book illustrations were a major pursuit of Gierymski and, at certain times in his life, his only source of livelihood. Recognised as one of the finest Polish painters, Gierymski’s art was subordinated to a single-minded study of the technical questions posed by light and colour. He belonged to the generation of artists who deliberately departed from the canon of historical painting established by Jan Matejko and from the very outset, his art was one of uncompromising experimentation.

Throughout the inevitable moments of doubt as to his own skills and as to the wisdom of his quest, Aleksander Gierymski persevered in his search for original solutions and remained receptive to the changes running their course in European art. From the perspective of time, he is deemed as one of the most conscious precursors of realism in Polish art. For lovers of art, this exhibition is a must. Catch it showing in the National Museum until August 10th.

facebook.com/warsawinsider

7

CULTURE 2

CONCERT Peruquois 19:30, Palladium, ul. Złota 9 Appearing in Poland for the first time, the Russian-born vocalist has integrated native American, classical Indian and electronic influences to create what some have termed as ‘the voice of Mother Earth’.

Tickets from zł. 95, available at eventim.pl

4

CONCERT Ela Dębska 19:30, Karuzela, ul. Konarskiego 85 Polish songstress Ela Dębska performs the ballads of Leonard Cohen and Janis Joplin in what promises to be a night to remember.

DANCE Electronic Beats Festival 23:30, Basen, ul. Konopmickiej 6 Hudson Mohawke, celebrated for his collaborations with Kanye West, plays Basen alongside Bristol-born house lad Julio Bashmore and electro whizz Mooryc as part of the Electronic Beats Festival.

Tickets from zł. 30, available at ebilet.pl

6-18

FESTIVAL 18th Beethoven Festival Various locations Organized since 1997, and held in Warsaw since 2004, the latest installment of this headline festival kicks off at the Philharmonic with a performance of pieces by Strauss and Beethoven, before concluding two weeks later with a performance of Haydn’s The Seven Last Words of our Saviour on the Cross. Organized by Elżbieta Penderecka, wife of composer Krzysztof Penderecki, the festival will cram in symphonies, quartets, oratorios, concertos, sonatas and opera during its two week run. For ticket info see: www.beethoven.org.pl

7

CONCERT

CONCERT The Adicts 19:30, Proxima, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 99A The Ipswich punk rockers have become known for their Clockwork Orange look, not to mention a string of hits that have included Viva La Revolution – later used as the soundtrack in the game Tony Hawk’s Underground.

Tickets from zł. 65-75, available at eventim.pl

Gaelforce 17:30 & 20:00, PKiN, Sala Kongresowa, Pl. Defilad 1

WARSAW INSIDER | APRIL 2014

CONCERT Dirty Loops 20:00, Palladium, ul. Złota 9 Born in 2009, this Swedish ‘power trio’ have been an internet sensation. Their sound has been described as: ‘where modern hits get a new soundscape of bouncy beats and interesting re-harmonizations, while keeping the melody in focus’. Judge for yourself, why not. Tickets from zł.

110, available at eventim.pl

CONCERT God is an Astronaut 20:00, Proxima, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 99A Combining ‘epic melodies of post rock and elements of space

Media Patronage April 13

CONCERT Bruno Pelletier 19:00, PKiN, Sala Kongresowa, Pl. Defilad 1 This Quebec-born Francophone singer has eleven gold and platinum albums to his name, and has come to be regarded as one of the most celebrated French singers of all time. Active for 25 years, he’ll be performing a collection of his greatest hits for the first time in Poland. Tickets from zł. 105-245, available at eventim.pl

12

15

10

CONCERT

8

12

Paul Di’Anno 18:00, Proxima, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 99A Iron Maiden’s original vocalist has had a bumpy ride since leaving the band in 1981, but has retained a cult following that’s bound to make this concert a bit of a banger. The supporting line-up consists of Scream Maker, Steelfire, Nonamen and Black Horsemen. Tickets from zł.

30-40, available at eventim.pl

11

Dubbed ‘the Ferrari of Irish dance’, Gaelforce have thrilled audiences globally through innovative choreography and Celtic rhythms. Expect another barnstorming show from these giants of the genre. Tickets from zł. 99-250, available at eventim.pl

Peter Brotzmann & Steve Noble Pardon, To Tu, Pl. Grzybowski 12/16, www. pardontotu.pl

H

aving already thrilled a sell-out crowd back in August, German-born Peter Brotzmann returns to Warsaw – and this time he’s bringing Steve Noble with him! Recognized as one of the biggest names on the European free jazz scene, Brotzmann’s rough timbre and fast paced style have cemented his name in legend.

Prolific in output, he’s collaborated on over 100 albums since hitting the big time with his 1968 debut album Machine Gun. Appearing alongside him will be drummer Steve Noble, described by All About Jazz as an ‘accelerant’ to Brotzmann’s saxophone. “The pair feed off each other’s energy,” writes the magazine, “flexing and reflexing, note-by-note.” Well said. For ticket details check Pardon, To Tu’s website closer to the event.

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF ORGANIZERS OR ARTISTS

EVENTS THIS MONTH

NIGHT SHOPPING APRIL 5TH FROM 8PM TO 11PM ATTRACTIVE DISCOUNTS UP TO 50% AND SPECIAL GIFTS ZLOTETARASY. PL

CULTURE 2001, breakthrough success was achieved with their second album In Ghost Colours.

Purveyors of synthpop, dance punk, new wave and indietronica, this double act will be promoting their latest album, Free Your Mind. Tickets from zł.

99, available at eventim.pl

17

CONCERT Kenny G 19:00, PKiN, Sala Kongresowa, Pl. Defilad 1 With a staggering 75 million album sales to his credit, Kenny G is amongst the best-selling artists of all time. Known for his ‘adult contemporary’ sound and his smooth saxophone skills, tickets are already going fast.

Tickets from zł. 60, available at ebilet.pl

22

DANCE Cut Copy 20:30, Basen, ul. Konopmickiej 6 Established in Australia in

films focused on reaching out towards a younger audience. For info: www.jewishmotifs.org.pl

23-27 FILM

Afrykamera Film Festival Kino Luna, ul. Marszałkowska 28 This well established festival divides African films into four categories, and include many feature and documentary films fresh from other major international festivals. Audience interaction plays a major part of the festival, with discussions and workshops also planned. For details see: www.afrykamera.pl

26

22-27

CONCERT

FILM

Jewish Motifs Festival Kino Muranów, ul. Andersa 5 In its tenth year, the Jewish Motifs Festival aims to ‘propagate awareness of centuries of Jewish tradition through the medium of film.’ Films made in central and eastern Europe are awarded preference, with many of the

The Fratellis 20:00, Basen, ul. Konopmickiej 6 This Glasgow indie-rock act scored major hits with singles such as Chelsea Dagger and Whistle for the Choir, and will appear in Poland to promote their latest studio album We Need Medicine. No ticket details at press time.

RUN Warsaw Zoo Run An annual 10k run (shorter route for kids) that goes in and around the grounds of Warsaw Zoo! For registration and other details see: www.biegzoo.pl

27

EVENT Earth Day 10:00, Pole Mokotowskie Lasting through the day, this annual eco-minded event features workshops, food stalls, recycling stations and all manner of displays and exhibits across the grounds of Pole Mokotowskie. For further info, good luck deciphering: www. dzienziemi.org.pl

Insider Pick April 6-18 18th Beethoven Festival Various locations

O

rganized since 1997, and held in Warsaw since 2004, the latest installment of this headline festival kicks off at the Philharmonic with a performance of pieces by Strauss and Beethoven, before concluding two weeks later with a performance of Haydn’s The Seven Last Words of our Saviour on the Cross. Organized by Elżbieta Penderecka, the wife of composer Krzysztof Penderecki, the festival will cram in symphonies, quartets, oratorios, concertos, sonatas and opera during its two week run. Further afield, this well-established festival will be accompanied by a series of musical events across Poland that will, like the Warsaw chapter, celebrate not just the life and works of Beethoven, but of classical music in general. Ticket sales are already well under way, with some marked down to as little as zł. 10.

For ticket info see: www.beethoven.org.pl

10

WARSAW INSIDER | APRIL 2014

ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF ARTISTS OR ORGANIZERS

rock’ God is an Astronaut offer a uniquely hypnotic sound and live performances that are known as being nothing less than a complete audio visual show.

Factoid: There is a City, the You Tube / Warsaw Uprising tribute uses one of their tunes in the background. Tickets from zł.

50-60, available at eventim.pl

online supermarket

facebook.com/warsawinsider

11

CULTURE sented, including those of Cyprien Gaillard, Dani Gal, Annette Kelm and Armin Linke. Ongoing till May Car Museum 16: Martha Rosler: Guidance for ul. Warszawska 21 (Otrębusy), the Lost – How to Succeed in New tel. 22 758 5067, Poland. The American artist takes www.muzuem-motorzyacji.com.pl a look at the realities of everyday What looks like a cemetery of life in modern Poland. rust and a tangle of exhaust Dom Spotkań z Historią pipes unravels into Warsaw’s ul. Karowa 20, most underrated museum. Find vehicles of every description: Lech www.dsh.waw.pl The History Meeting House wins points for freWałesa’s Volvo (with 7cm bulletquently excellent exhibitions that proof windows), Gomułka’s ZIS cover topics such as ‘rebuilding limo, German wartime armor and a pretty-in-pink Buick Skylark – the Warsaw’ and ‘Socialist Realist architecture.’ It won’t take longer type favored by Elvis and Marilyn. than twenty minutes to peruse It’s incredible in its peculiarity, with the random layout, oily smells whatever exhibition is on, but it’s and dark, cobwebbed corners only still a very worthwhile diversion.

Ongoing until April 6: The Ordiadding to the sense of treading nary Year of 1934. Photographer somewhere special.

Willem Van De Poll’s pictures Bodies Revealed Exhibition of Warsaw, Vilnius, Łowicz and Chemistry Research Institute, the Polish borderlands offer a ul. Anny German 12, poignant look at a world that will www.bodiesrevealed.pl soon brutally disappear.

Macabre maybe, but there’s no hiding the popularity of this much- Jewish Historical Institute ul. Tłomackie 3/5, traveled exhibit. The complex inner workings of the human body www.jhi.pl are laid bare at this intriguing and Officially opened in 1947 the Jewish Historical Institute was controversial exhibition. created to serve as an archive Copernicus Science Centre of Jewish culture in Warsaw. ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, It contains art work, historical tel. 22 596 4100, artifacts and important docuwww.kopernik.org.pl ments from the city’s rich Jewish Interactive, witty and surprising, past. Ongoing until April: The Photographs of Yoram Gross.

Copernicus allows visitors to An intriguing collection of photoexperience an earthquake, blast graphs taken by filmmaker Yoram recyclable objects into space Gross in 2012 when he toured and become a mystery cracking Poland to show his grandchildren detective. the country of his birth.

CSW ul. Jazdów 2, Historical Museum of Warsaw Rynek Starego Miasta 28/42, www.csw.art.pl www.mhw.pl Situated in a baroque-style castle The granddaddy of Warsaw musethe center hosts artists from all ums is over the worst of a lengthy over the world (Edward Dwurnik, refit and gradually reopening bit Jenny Holzer, Annie Leibovitz, by bit. The ground floor cinema Wilhelm Sasnal, Andy Warhol). is a must. A twenty minute film The on-site bookshop is of details the powerful story behind particular interest for artists and the destruction of Warsaw. intellectuals. Ongoing till April 21: Future Perfect, Contemporary Art from Germany. The works of Invisible Exhibition Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, 16 artists from the ‘middle and www.niewidzialna.pl younger generations’ are pre-

12

WARSAW INSIDER | APRIL 2014

An astonishing exhibition that leads people through the challenges faced by the blind: type in braille and decipher maps before being plunged into complete darkness to face up to the everyday obstacles encountered by the blind. This involves everything from crossing the road to ordering a drink in a bar. You’ll talk about it for hours after. Advanced bookings recommended.

Preludes of the Museum of the History of Polish Jews ul. Anielewicza 6, www.jewishmuseum.org.pl Slated to open in full in the second half of 2014, this hugely impressive museum is already luring streams of onlookers eager to preview the temporary exhibits housed in the opening halls.

The Fryderyk Chopin Museum in Warsaw Ostrogski Palace, ul. Okólnik 1, chopin.museum Recognized as one of the most hi-tech museums in Europe, the world even, computer chip tickets allow visitors the chance to personalize the museum experience as never before.

Over 5,000 objects are present, among them Chopin’s pocket watch, last piano, a lock of hair and even his death mask.

Królikarnia ul. Puławska 113A, www.krolikarnia.mnw.art.pl Fine art galore inside an elegant suburban palace. The young curator has decided to show some forgotten treasures from the rich archives of the National Museum. The gallery also hosts more contemporary works, such as those by Nicolas Grospierre and Agnieszka Polska. Łazienki Królewskie ul. Agrykoli 1, www.lazienki-krolewskie.pl Situated in the picturesque park which once housed the residence of King Stanisław August this

museum includes paintings and furniture from one of the most glorious periods in Poland’s history as well as temporary exhibitions of more modern work.

Legia Museum ul. Łazienkowska 6, www.legia.com Aside from silverware affirming Legia’s status, find a vast collection of shirts, pennants and paintings (even part of an old floodlight). Pride of place goes to Legia’s favorite son, 80’s super star Kazimierz Deyna.

Museum of the Blessed Father Jerzy Popiełuszko ul. Hozjusza 2, www.popieluszko.net.pl A museum in the basement of the church relates the story of Jerzy Popiełuszko, the Solidarity priest murdered by the communist security forces. Even his family cradle is here. But things take a darker twist, and having crept past a militia baton and a pair of handcuffs visitors suddenly find themselves in a shadowy room beaming shots of his brutally beaten corpse. In lieu of anything else, it’s the closest Warsaw has to a museum of communism.

Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw ul. Pańska 3, www.artmuseum.pl The very first museum of modern art in Warsaw, still fighting for a proper location, bravely manages to provide visitors with a display of contemporary art, including works of Alina Sapocznikow, Zbigniew Libera, Paweł Althamer, Magdalena Abakanowicz, Miroslaw Bałka, Katarzyna Kozyra and Artur Żmijewski. Ongoing till June 1: As You Can See – Polish Art Today. The most ‘up-to-date’ collection of Polish modern art to date, will apparently be, “critical, liberating, psychedelic, often brutal and perverse, dense and ambiguous.” Ongoing till Sept 14: In the Near Future. Works from 47 artists demonstrating the social changes that occurred after 1989.

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF ORGANIZERS OR ARTISTS

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

Museum of Technology Palace of Culture, pl. Defilad 1, muzeumtechniki.warszawa.pl The very opposite of the new-fangled Copernicus Centre, here’s a place that embraces the old way of doing things. On show an eccentric – occasionally ludicrous – collection of junk that ranges from 8-bit computers to a German ‘Enigma’ machine.

Poster Museum in Wilanów ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 10/16, www.postermuseum.pl With a collection that touches the 55,000 mark, here’s the biggest poster museum in the world – and also the original. Art spans the period from 1892 till 2002, and while the majority is Polish orientated works on display also include those by Dali and Warhol.

National Museum Al. Jerozolimskie 3, www.mnw.art.pl Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars.

Railway Museum ul. Towarowa 1, www.muzkol.pl Inside the museum contains an unimaginative formula of train models (including one charmingly outdated model depicting a rail crash!), uniforms and paintings depicting Polish rail travel through the passage of time. Outside it’s a different story – find an amazing collection of locomotives, armored vehicles and Comrade Bierut’s luxury saloon car.

The Neon Museum ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), www.neonmuzeum.org A complete departure from the stuff museums in Poland are famed for, this long awaited project brings together the neon lights that once illuminated the city. Among the collection are 35 landmark signs, many of which date from the 60s and 70s.

Palmiry National Memorial Museum Palmiry, www.palmiry.mhw.pl An excellent multimedia exhibition set next to a cemetery holding the graves of 1,700 Poles executed in the first years of Nazi occupation. The museum tells their forgotten story, with archival video footage complimented by exhumed exhibits and plenty of background info dealing with the siege and subsequent occupation of Warsaw.

Pawiak ul. Dzielna 24/26, What was once a Tsarist prison assumed a doubly sinister function under the Nazis. Some 100,000 Polish political prisoners were held here, 37,000 of which were executed on-site. Split in two sections, cells are found on one side, while on the other the full story of the invasion and occupation.

The Royal Castle in Warsaw Pl. Zamkowy 4, zamek-krolewski.pl Meticulously restored after WWII, highlights inside include the lavishly decorated 18th century royal apartments with 22 paintings by Bernardo Bellotto (known as Canaletto), the

Senators’ Chamber in which the Constitution of the Third of May was signed in 1791, the biggest collection of Oriental rugs in Europe in the Tin-Roofed Palace and two remarkable Rembrandt paintings.

industrial heyday, not to mention the magnates who made it happen. There’s space given over to the war, though for something lighter check the retro kitchenware: most outstanding is the vintage espresso maker.

Warsaw Uprising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, www.1944.pl Cope with the crowds to discover the definitive story of the Uprising.

Exhibits range from a full size replica of a Liberator plane, to a sewer beneath the cinema screen and a slice of bread preserved from 1944. And don’t miss the ‘City of Ruins’, a five minute 3D film which takes you on an aerial journey over devastated Warsaw. Outside, check the Nazi bunker behind the office and the panoramic view tower.

Zachęta National Art Gallery Pl. Małachowskiego 3, www.zacheta.art.pl Featuring in the collection are works by Toulouse-Lautrec, Cezanne, Ernst and Picasso, as well as luminaries of the Polish art scene such as Tadeusz Kantor, Alina Szapocznikow, Katarzyna Kozyra and Zbigniew Libera.

Ongoing until Aug 31: Anemona Crisan: Installation for the Interior

Wola Museum ul. Srebrna 12, www.muzeumwoli.mhw.pl As the name says, this one traces Wola from its birth as farmland to its current ensemble of modern towers, housing blocks, restored factories and abandoned buildings. The museum dedicates a section to signage, posters, tools and products from Wola’s

NEED TO KNOW Museum hours (and prices) change way too frequently for our liking, so check indiviudal websites for the latest story.

Note that many of these addresses close one day per week (usually Monday or Tuesday), and that an equal amount hold ‘visitor’ days once a week when admission prices are waived.

THE ROYAL CASTLE in Warsaw

Plac Zamkowy 4 tel. (+48 22) 35 55 170 www.zamek-krolewski.pl informacja@zamek-krolewski.pl

facebook.com/warsawinsider

13

INFRONT DINING 16 / LOCAL 16 / MOTORING 16 / NATIONAL 15 / TOURISM 16

NATIONAL

Go-Go, Going?

PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT

The Cocomo strip club can’t keep out the news. Having already enraged both authorities and the public earlier in the year after coating a historic Warsaw premises with Amsterdam-style red lights – later changed to blue following a flood of complaints – the go-go chain found itself in the headlines again after a raft of disgruntled customers claimed to have been ripped-off.

Original investigations had centered around Cocomo’s Poznań enterprise, where cops are examining twelve cases in which clients are said to have woken the next day to find large sums of money removed from their accounts. Since the news was made public, Cocomo’s other clubs have come under scrutiny, with more punters stepping forward with accusations. In Kraków, toxicology tests on one customer revealed small traces of a ‘date rape’ drug. In Warsaw, meanwhile, another vexed patron has claimed he was unwittingly charged zł. 90,000 during his night to forget.

And the bad news keeps stacking up for the Warsaw venture – following an inspection at the start of the year, the city conservator announced in March that repairs to the building had been carried out without a license and that the advertising on the façade was illegal. As such, the management of Cocomo have been instructed to return the building to its original state.

facebook.com/warsawinsider

15

INFRONT

IN THE CITY DINING

Shooting Stars

Poland retained its only Michelin star last month with the 2014 Main Cities of Europe guide praising Atelier Amaro for its ‘modern, highly original cooking’ and its use of ‘carefully sourced and forgotten ingredients in unusual combinations.’ New recommendations also added to the esteemed guide numbered Biała Gęś, Brasserie Warszawska, Delizia, Nolita and Winosfera.

LOCAL

Market Crashes

The end of March brought with it the end of Hala Koszyki, a cult indoor market that achieved legendary status in its sole year of trading. Occupying one wing of a historic pre-war market hall, developers have now moved in and set about converting what remains of the Art Nouveau structure into a mixed use project housing retail units and office space. Completion is penciled in for the end of 2015.

TOURISM

Honey, I Shrunk the City

Plans to build a 3.5 hectare miniature park have been announced, with the finished project showcasing over 50 historic Mazovian landmarks that have been lost to time. Created to a scale of 1:25, it’s been revealed the first such model has already been finished: that of the pre-war Saski Palace.

The initial stage of the privately funded zł. 2 million project is slated for completion next year, though organizers remain locked in talks with the city regarding a suitable location.

End of the Road

Petrolheads faced up to heartbreak last month with the sudden closure of Warsaw’s Ferrari dealership. Opened to much fanfare in 2009, in a building that once housed the communist HQ, the failure of the showroom has been blamed on the lack of local racetracks and the number of speed cameras on the roads – nothing to do with the million złoty prices then.

The blow, however, has been softened by news that Lamborghini are planning the imminent launch of a Warsaw salon.

16

WARSAW INSIDER | APRIL 2014

FROM BOTTOM: SHUTTERSTOCK, PRESS MATERIAL, BY KEVIN DEMARIA

MOTORING

Fonepad 7 TM

Fonepad Note 6 TM

FONEPAD ŁĄCZY Tablet, który pozwala na więcej

Więcej czasu poświęcamy dziś na patrzenie na ekrany smartfonów, niż na wykonywanie połączeń - dlaczego więc ekrany smartfonów są wciąż tak małe? Fonepad jest doskonałym wyborem dla osób ceniących funkcje komunikacji głosowej smartfona oraz możliwości rozrywkowe tabletu z większym ekranem. Jednocześnie Fonepad daje wygodę noszenia przy sobie tylko jednego urządzenia. Więcej na www.fonepad.pl

Intel, Logo Intel, Intel Atom, Intel Atom Inside, Intel Inside, Intel Core i Core Inside są znakami towarowymi firmy Intel Corporation w U.S.A. i w innych krajach.

SENSE AND THE CITY

Spring has SPRUNG Having spent the last few months viewing

Warsaw in monochrome colors, the city has reawakened; swapping grey for green, this chameleon capital has stirred from its sleep. We bring you Warsaw in five senses…

“ At times, Warsaw smells like a rock star: sweaty, weathered and maybe a bit toxic.

But turn the corner and you find freshly mown grass, blooming roses and fresh coffee. The contrasts of the city are summed up by its scents” - Dave • Walking down Nowogrodzka and Hoża one discovers numerous niche enterprises: milliners, tailors, cobblers and book dealers.

Many have passed through generations and the cobwebbed studios give heed to a time of meticulous craftsmanship. Murky and musty, a perfumer could bottle the aroma and name it Nostalgia.

• The city’s first chocolate café appeared in 1851: located on Szpitalna 8, E. Wedel is still going strong. Imperial and cavernous in design, the ornate Viennese interiors are deep with the rich, luxurious waft of chocolate. You’ll be overcome.

• What scent best represents Warsaw’s moneyed class? Is it the latest pongs from Paris? Or maybe the squeaking leather in their Porsche SUV? Neither. Try instead the welcoming bouquet of roasted coffee and fresh French baguettes. It is a smell that says, “Good morning, you’re beautiful.”

Find it dominating the air of Charlotte.

• Oil, rust and history: all hallmark smells found in the Car Museum in Otrębusy. It’s a grease monkey musk that is at once both masculine and hard. You feel a man just breathing it in.

18

WARSAW INSIDER | APRIL 2014

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

• Put the fruity, punchy odors of the lingering vagrants behind you at Hala Mirowska, Warsaw’s premier flower market. Presenting a riot of color, walking amid the stalls is an olfactory adventure that prickles the nose.

• While most of Warsaw’s public institutions do their utmost to keep your paws off their exhibits, this philosophy is reversed at the Copernicus Center. The whole thing is built around interaction: jump on the surface of the moon, go for a spin on Sinbad’s flying carpet or steer an exploratory robot to carry out futuristic excavations.

• The shadow of the war is not confined to dank and dusty museums. Physical evidence of the Nazi occupation prolifer ates Warsaw: a stretch of Ghetto Wall on Sienna 55, countless shrapnel scarred buildings from the Uprising, and even a few surviving bunkers like the one on ul.

Panieńska in Praga. Physically touching such remnants is a powerful way to tune into the tragedy of the past.

•Roll the dice and visit Paradox (paradox cafe.pl) to fondle figures of elves and orcs. A self-confessed ‘fantasy asylum’, this geeky café dedicates itself to board games, role-play and other fiendish pursuits.

• Head to the cute square on ul. Kanonia and you’ll find a 17th century church bell that’s never been used. Shattered during the war, it’s since been glued together Humpty Dumpty-style. A lucky wish is granted to those who touch its top and then circle it three times.

• Show you’re the sugar daddy by making your own outsized lollipops at Manu faktura Cukierków (www.manufaktura cukierkow.pl), a colorful workshop that could have been devised by Willy Wonka.

“ I associate touching in Warsaw with getting jostled and queue jumped wherever I go.

The old women, ‘the beret mafia’, are the worst culprits. They survived communism and know every trick in the book” - Nigel

facebook.com/warsawinsider

19

SENSE AND THE CITY

• We all know about Polish vodka, but what about nalewki: matured fruit liquors dismissed by many ex-pats as rocket fuel moonshine. The results are often more pleasing than you’d expect. See for yourself by going through the generous collection at Polonez.

• Food trucks rolled onto the streets en masse last summer, and we can expect the fleet to grow as the mercury rises. Burgers and Tex Mex were the hit last year, though this time anticipate a more varied offer as a number of restaurants consider going mobile.

• “I really believe that contemporary Polish cuisine can obtain the same worldwide success as the New Nordic Kitchen.” Or so reckons Rene Redzepi, head chef of the globally acclaimed Noma. His hunch appears validated by the tasting menus at a growing number of restaurants: Senses, Atelier Amaro and Nolita. Expect more plaudits as modern fine dining gains momentum.

20

WARSAW INSIDER | APRIL 2014

• More restaurants are switching to locavore philosophies, bringing to the table the real taste of nature. Solec 44 pioneered the charge, and have amply demonstrated the exciting things that can be done with the basic root and meat ingredients of the Polish diet.

• 2013 marked a ‘brew age’ for Poland with artisan breweries flourishing. The country’s brewing industry has recovered from its post-communist coma, and the result has been dozens of exciting new beers. For us, kings of the pile are Browar Artezan.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

“ Poland to me means donuts – I couldn’t believe when I found there was even a national donut day. I reckon I’ve got a donut shaped heart. The cukiernia at Żelazna 64 doesn’t muck about when it comes to making the best” - Roy

• Could the next Warsaw trend be insects?

Lauded as a sustainable food source that could ‘save the planet’, the little nasties have become increasingly in vogue in the Western world. While Warsaw’s first creepy crawly restaurant went bust after about six minutes, find insects to try and to buy at the weekend food market on Bracka 25.

facebook.com/warsawinsider

21

SENSE AND THE CITY • It’s with nightfall that one truly grasps the spirit of a city, when it becomes a whir of illuminated blurs and neon strips. Even during the Cold War Warsaw was not the dreary canvas that’s often presented.

This is proved in the Neon Muzeum (neonmuzeum.org), a boneyard of over 50 PRL-era signs rescued from the scrapyard.

And even amongst today’s giant, generic illuminations, the city center glows with more creative offerings: the National Stadium and Śląsko-Dąbrowski bridge are good examples.

“ This is a schizophrenic city that constantly contradicts itself – that gives it a complex character not just spiritually but visually as well. You feel excited just looking at the skyline” - Miguel

• Built post-war on the ruins of the Ghetto, the Muranów housing estate is often perceived as a drab and decomposing tribute to the follies of the Socialist vision.

Steps have been taken to breathe youth and color into the area, and are evidenced by the huge murals that have sprung up on the sides of buildings and their interconnect ing arches. Muranów? More like Mural-ów.

• The pomp of Warsaw’s past isn’t always obvious, but Łazienki Park leaves visitors in no doubt as to its imperial ancestry.

Peacocks roam this pristine green space, strutting and showboating amid a feast of verdant colors. And don’t miss an evening walk on ul. Agrykola: as dusk sets the 19th century gas lamps shroud Warsaw’s most romantic street in an ageless glow.

• Say you’ve seen all the city by heading to one of the many viewpoints. The Stalinist Palace of Culture is the most well-known, but don’t overlook the rooftop garden on the University Library, the Uprising Mound nor the views of Old Town from the tower of St Anne’s. And why not be cheeky – pretend to be seriously cash rich and book a viewing at Złota 44, the Liebeskind designed sail-shaped residential tower.

• Having seen Warsaw from the top, see it from the bottom. Scores of historic cellars in the Old Town have been restored and renovated for cultural use. Pick of the bunch is Brzozowa 11/13 which tells the story of Warsaw’s reconstruction.

• Pl. Grzybowski is Warsaw in a nutshell: spinning 360 degrees reveals Catholic, Jewish, Tsarist, communist and capitalist elements of the past and present. Nowhere better illustrates the complexities of the city’s layered history.

• Nothing challenges the sense of sight more than a total lack of it. Confused? Head to the Invisible Exhibition (niewidzialna.pl) to learn first-hand the challenges faced by the blind.

22

WARSAW INSIDER | APRIL 2014

“ I’ll always remember W-Hour, when the city stops on August 1st to remember the Warsaw Uprising: no one moving or saying a word, just the wail of thousands of sirens and horns in the air. It’s spine tingling” - Adam

• The thriving bar scene offers bountiful chances to eavesdrop on gossip. For outrageous true tales then it’s got to be ex-pat joints like the Warsaw Tortilla Factory: sit in awe as cads, rakes and bounders regale tales of military bravery and bed-hopping heroics. Hilarious.

• Warsaw is not the musically bankrupt city it appears.

From Chopin recitals each summer Sunday in Łazienki, to avant garde weirdness in Pardon To Tu, there’s a rich choice of sounds to pamper the ears. And in the shape of DJ Wika, a granny on the dance decks, Warsaw has the oldest DJ in Europe. But it’s the buskers we love: from the Chmielna street band to the bloke banging the chair outside Metro Centrum.

• Clad in logos and winking signs, it’s not the sights of Old Town that make it magical but its sounds. Close your

eyes and listen to clip-clopping horse-drawn carriages while wondering gypsy minstrels circle the square. It’s a timeless sensation.

• Nothing defines the sound of Warsaw more than the clank of construction. But there is no reprieve. Returning home for the day, silence is shattered by the neighbor next door. Remont – the art of loud home improvements – is the city’s biggest menace. The only known therapy is murder.

• Forget the chunky backpacker bibles or the burbling local tourist comics: instead, see the city through the eyes of a local. Warsaw Behind the Scenes (warsawscenes.com) offer eccentric tours conducted in wheezing old car wrecks. Listening to Marcin, a guide extraordinaire, you’ll learn the secrets of the city on his ‘tours with a twist’.

SIXTH SENSE Remember The Sixth Sense, that film about a little weirdo who can see dead people? Well, so can you! Warsaw’s got its compliment of ghosts and ghouls, including a Blair Witch-style abandoned house on Tulipanowa 12, site of a 90s mass axe killing. In Konstancin, an NKVD officer haunts a former police station,

while on Jerozolimskie 57 – home of a former children’s hospital – visitors have reported objects flying through the air and seeing kids walk through walls. Yikes.

But the most well-known spook is Hanka, a lovelorn girl shot by a stray bullet during the Uprising. Spot her on the balcony of Morskie Oko 5.

facebook.com/warsawinsider

23

PUBLIC SPACE

KINGDOM OF THRONES Rage against the latrine? Not anymore.

While Warsaw’s toilets used to be bog standard, and in some cases downright crap, the city has come a long way when it comes to its ‘facilities’. PHOTOGRAPHS BY ED WIGHT

24

WARSAW INSIDER | APRIL 2014

Top, from left: Spiskowcy Rozkoszy, a.k.a The Blue Loo; thinking of a pooh-dle? Dworzec Centralna; room with a view, Pure Sky Club.

Bottom, from left: Ladies, use your own toilet, Secado; it came from space, Cześć; the writings on the wall, Chwila; guerilla design, Centralna

facebook.com/warsawinsider

25

TRAVEL TORUŃ

Insider on Tour... un

A dreamy city of cobbles and cloisters, Toruń has long been regarded as one of Poland’s tourist trump cards. Time then for the Insider to sniff it out…

BY ALEX WEBBER | PHOTOGRAPHS BY ED WIGHT

26

WARSAW INSIDER | APRIL 2014

facebook.com/warsawinsider

27

TRAVEL TORUŃ

Above and left: a master class from the Spice Girl and Gingerbread King; below, locked out of church; opposite, spotlight on Toruń.

o fine is Toruń,” wrote Jan Długosz, “that perhaps nothing can rival it in terms of beauty, location and luminous buildings.”

But I bet this esteemed medieval chronicler wasn’t staying at the Retman. That’s where I find myself, lugging my bag up some rickety stairs. The room is dark and brooding and would only be considered spacious by a visiting ant. As I move across the floor, the hotel’s foundations creak with every step. My heart sinks as I realize that for the next 24 hours this will be home.

In all fairness, while the Retman is neither luminous nor beautiful it is well located – just inside the old town walls. And make no mistake, this is an old town to rival anywhere in Poland. Founded in 1233, Toruń has traditionally been passed like a Frisbee between Poland and next door. Yet despite complex ownership issues, its historic core has escaped devastation, avoiding the fate of many of its neighbors. You appreciate this quickly: as

S

28

WARSAW INSIDER | APRIL 2014

the taxi crawls across the iron-truss, interwar Piłsudski Bridge, I marvel at the vista that appears up in front. It is a skyline of steeples and spires, a view that’s justly been named as one of the ‘seven wonders of Poland’.

Having made it across the bridge, the old banger of a cab clunks into the old town. We chunter past a crooked tower that tilts to the tune of a full five degrees – but while it looks like it’ll go tumbling any minute, this leaning fortification has been defending the city for 700 years.

There is no time to linger on this sight. Plunging down narrow streets, my head is soon swiveling like a submarine periscope: to my right there is an majestic rotunda that functions as a prison, and straight ahead there’s a dallying pedestrian that the driver hasn’t seen. Crash.

After a quick flurry of curses we’re off once again, before finally coming to a standstill at the doors of the Retman.

The photographer has already arrived, and he’s not happy: “When you asked me to do a travel piece I thought you meant Turin.” His complaints fall on deaf ears and we shuffle away to the first point of call: Tourist Information. While stocking up on the customary bumph, I am nudged by the cameraman. “I know,” he whispers, “let’s get a picture of you baffling the staff by asking where you can view The Toruń Shroud.” The English don’t enjoy the best reputation as travelers, and this is one reason why. There’s bewilderment and head shakes as we finally exit.

Yet the trip is looking up. We discover the Olbracht brewery and claim a seat inside a giant empty barrel as we order beers and pore over guidebooks. This was the city of astronomer Nicholas Copernicus, the brainbox who deduced the earth revolved round the sun, and his name features prominently in all tourist material. Around the corner, we learn, the house of his birth can be visited in the Rynek. But the only stargazer I have time for is Mystic Meg, so this is a suggestion we swiftly overlook.

Instead we find ourselves exploring the square and the streets that shoot off it. Quirky curiosities abound:

“ T he view is described as there’s a donkey statue which is a replica of an ‘iron ass’ on which criminals were once forced to sit on while their feet were weighed down; from a rooftop, we spot a brass cat which celebrates a moggy that once chased away a horde of Swedish soldiers; and by St. John’s Church, there’s a statue of a fiddle-tooting boatman surrounded by frogs – so the story goes, Toruń once endured a plagues of frogs which only ended once a boatman led them away in Pied Piper style. And like all medieval cities Toruń once had its own resident dragon: find this scary beast depicted in murals about town. Further examination of one of my pamphlets determines he was last sighted flying over a stream in 1746.

It is in such aimless meanderings Toruń comes alive.

Soaked in a spring half-light, the Gothic architecture glows warm red and casts long, deep shadows onto the cobbles. The effect is mesmerizing, and this is never truer than as we walk down ul. Podmurna. Away from the hustle of the square all is silent and still. We are alone, bar a couple walking hand-in-hand far in the distance.

It’s a timeless scene and only disrupted by our rumbling stomachs.

It’s no use pretending Torun is a place for foodies, for it is not. I’ve eaten better in hospitals. Originally, the plan had been to visit Masala, a place opened in 1489 and recognized as one of the oldest restaurants in Europe.

In the past both King Jan III Sobieski and Napoleon ate there, and more recently so had I. Back in 2010. By that time it had become something of a beleaguered venue serving ersatz Indian food and – I promise this is true – Indiana Jones pizza. That alone marked it out a must-visit this trip. Alas, we find ourselves thwarted by a hand

one of the seven wonders of Poland”

written note on its door announcing ‘remont’ in progress.

Growing increasingly desperate we settle for dinner in Prowansja, which as it transpires is a diabolical choice.

As we plug our way through a sloppy heap of muck I stare in envy at the kebab shop opposite. It’s with groaning guts we finish the night in Krajina Piva, an atmospheric cellar stocking a couple hundred beers. We sample a bit of everything to erase the horror of what we’ve just eaten.

The next day, roused by a herd of wildebeest stamping up and down the corridor, we are up early and in remarkably good spirits. After all, I’m safe in the knowledge that in a few hours I’ll be back home in Warsaw and dining like a pig. But first, a visit to the Gingerbread Museum.

In actuality, it’s more of a gingerbread workshop and I really wouldn’t have guessed but it is hilarious fun.

Toruń’s association with gingerbread goes back to the middle ages, and I’m told Chopin and Pope JP II were big fans. Using the techniques of yesteryear, and under the guidance of an attractive ‘spice witch’ and Łukasz, the ‘gingerbread master’, we are put through our paces and bake our own biscuits. It’s a brilliant experience and one made all the better when, at the end, I’m approached by one of the group and asked if I’m famous. Before I can answer in the negative there’s a whole line of people asking for autographs and pictures. An hour earlier I’d wanted to run away (get it – ‘to-run’, ha!), now I feel like I’m the King of the World. But that’s Toruń for you: a city of barking mad twists. facebook.com/warsawinsider

29

FOODIE NEWS A collaboration between two of Warsaw’s best known restaurant blogs (restaurantica.pl and froblog.pl), Warsaw Foodie has emerged as the No. 1 site for local food related stories. Featuring all the latest from the foodie frontline, the bilingual Warsaw Foodie promises the hottest news on what’s trending on the restaurant radar. For more info, check: www.warsawfoodie.pl/en

Meat-ing Place

Opened in mid-March the menu in Senses (Bielańska 12) is the work of Andrea Camastra, formally of Atelier Amaro and Sowa i Przyjaciele. The cooking is supposed to combine classic techniques with daring experiments that blur the line between physics, chemistry and the kitchen. Much like Atelier, there is no fixed menu, with dishes dependent on available produce and whatever’s been invented in the ‘lab’ on the day. Not that the menu gives away much: sample dishes available when it opened included pork/blood sausage/potato/ mustard. Three, six and nine course tasting menus also available.

New Arrival: Sueno Opened in February on the site of what was formerly Takie Smaczki, the owners of this venue are avid surfers and travelers – and that’s something reflected in the design of Sueno. The chef is Adam Lademann (previously Café Szparka), and his menu is set to change every couple of weeks. Open from breakfast, this venue serves tapas throughout the day such as crostini with pear, blue cheese and walnuts, and salmon and sirloin skewers. A seasonal garden terrace is set to open imminently.

30

WARSAW INSIDER | APRIL 2014

Fairytale Fanfare

It seems this part of Ursynów is becoming a bit trendy. First we had the new To Tu bar opening on this street, now we have Eat Me Drink Me (Wąwozowa 32). Distinguishing itself on account of a fairytale design that include a tree, there’s a range of light meals, not to mention a list of ‘Guilty Pleasure Shakes’.

Welcome to Warsaw

Cud Miód (Nowogrodzka 56) assumes position in the unit that once housed Sofa. While new to Warsaw, the owners aren’t new to the restaurant game – for years they’ve successfully operated two restaurants of the same name in Łódź. Expect plenty of Polish dishes, fish and seafood, not to mention steaks and burgers in varying forms.

PHOTOGRAPHS FACEBOOK AND WARSAW FOODIE

New Arrival: Senses

Specializing in fresh meat and cold cuts Kura czy Krowa (ul. Szulborska 3/5) is becoming a ‘go to’ place for farmyard animals and homemade pates. Gluten-free produce is also available, as well as organic and regional-specific products such as Koryciński cheese, smoked fish and preservative free meats.

Reviews: Kafe Zielony Niedzwiedź 31 / Wilczy Głod 46 Plus:

* 21 updates

RESTAURANTS

for past picks visit: www.warsawinsider.pl

AFRICAN 32 / AMERICAN 32 / ASIAN 32 / BALKAN & RUSSIAN 34 / BRITISH 35 / BURGERS 35 / CHEAP EATS 36 / COOKING SCHOOLS 64 / CUBAN 39 / FOOD SHOPS 62 / FRENCH 38 / GERMAN 39 /GREEK & TURKISH 39 / HOME DELIVERY 34 / INDIAN 40 / INTERNATIONAL 42 / ITALIAN 50 /JAPANESE & SUSHI 54 / LATIN 54 / MIDDLE EASTERN 57 / POLISH 58 / SCANDINAVIAN 62 / WHOLE FOODS 64

Insider’s Pick

D

on’t be fooled by the city center postcode, Zielony Niedzwiedź is a destination restaurant that feels isolated from the world – no rolling up to the door via taxi here, instead diners sneak down a park pathway before arriving outside a modern block of brick and glass. Set amid the greenery, the appearance of this slick, shining structure is quite startling: strollers stop in their tracks and people wonder just what it is.

The Green Bear Café is not, however, some walk-in stop-gap aimed at afternoon ramblers. Quite the opposite, in fact. In its short life it’s already become regarded as the hottest address in town. Proof? It’s here Wojciech Amaro – Poland’s Michelin darling – enjoyed a star studded birthday dinner. But while he is absent on the Insider’s visit, not all the local ’slebs are in hiding – lurking by the entrance are two talk show hosts I’m assured are high profile ("she’s great," whispers my girlfriend, "but

the bloke is a complete dick").

To a degree, such clientele are reflective of the venue: there’s an unmistakable sense of smug satisfaction, and that sense of vanity and ego hangs heavy in the air. But unless you are particularly insecure that is no reason at all to dislike a restaurant. And yes, the doubts that we have are dispelled in a flash: first, thanks to a waitress who is all candy sweet charm, and second by an interior that’s a sensory pleasure. It looks sensual and seductive,

all clean lines and soft lights.

Then there’s the starters. I could say we enjoyed them but that wouldn’t convey the real reaction that they wrought. Hers, a fish soup thick with sealife immersed in a clear, distinct broth. Exceptional. Me, a beetroot soup with a thick, creamy texture and a gingery snap that lingers on the palette. I come close to swooning. It isn’t good, it’s magic.

With the mains, I allow the price tag to sway my decision – my eye is on the bison (zł. 120), but instead I pick the less exorbitant roast beef (zł. 83). I breathe a sigh of relief when my date orders the lamb (zł. 35). The dishes are simple, almost primitive in style: robust hunks of animal served alongside caramelized root veg. But meat this good does not need any further complications, and we finish the main act with the plates spotless and gleaming.

As we ponder the next move, a surprise lands on the table: complimentary slices of bison meat and a dab of house mustard. This is, I confess, my first experience of eating this distinguished beast, and I can’t get enough. It’s lean and delicate yet unmistakably meaty. I love it, and immediately regret not ordering it for main. Next time, it’s the bison steak and bugger the expense ceiling.

So far, brilliant, but we give them one final chance to get it wrong: dessert. Of course, they finish with a flourish and leave us all smiles. There is a cheesecake so soft and creamy it’s like eating a cloud.

Then there’s the sea buckthorn meringue, a faultless piece of culinary engineering.

As we leave, I regale the GF about an eighties British advert whose tagline went something along the lines of ‘Follow the Bear’. I feel I have now, and you should as well. (AW) Kafe Zielony Niedzwiedź ul. Smolna 4, tel. 731 996 006, open Mon 8:00-15:30; Tue-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-23:00.

facebook.com/warsawinsider

31

RESTAURANTS KEY $ zł. 30 (per main) $$ zł. 30-55 $$$ over zł. 55

Insider writers do not accept any form of payment in return for favorable reviews.

Best of Warsaw Award Winner 2013

AFRICAN Café Baobab (H4) ul. Francuska 31, tel. 22 617 4057, open 10:00-23:00, www.cafebaobab.pl Café

Baobab serves Senagelese classics like thiebu djen, mafe yap and yassa ginar. It’s adapted to Polish tastes, but say the word and authentic spiciness can appear. $

*

La MaMa Africa (C1) ul. Andersa 23, tel. 22 226 3505, open Mon 13:00-24:00; Tue-Thu 11:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-last guest; Sun 12:00-23:00, www. lamama.eu Things we like: African Star beer and the traditional stews. Things we don’t like: the goat meat. But that’s not a criticism of the cooking, rather an admission we don’t like goats in general – dead or alive. Those who don’t fancy experimenting with gizzards and heads make do with dishes like yam porridge or sweet and spicy coconut rice. It’s the very definition of casual, and something of a focal point for Warsaw’s African community. $$

AMERICAN

*

Because Warsaw Just Got Hotter Classic Indian Cuisine With A Funky Twist ul. Zurawia 22, tel. 501 400 386, www.rain.pl

Champions Sports Bar (D5) Marriott Hotel, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel.

22 630 5119, open 12:00-24:00, www. champions.pl While the concept and style look dated, there’s no faulting the attention to detail – wherever you look (aside from under the table), there’s a TV. The heavy décor brings to mind the trans-Atlantic sports bars of the 90s, with glinting trophies, whirring machines, clacking pool tables and a cacophony of commentaries. Hell, there’s even a boxing ring. But you can’t fault their consistency: the food is always on-point, the staff are pro, while the generous floor plan makes it suitable for unwieldy groups of large and loud lads. $$ Hard Rock Café (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, open daily 9:00-24:00, www.hardrockcafe. pl Instantly recognizable by the giant neon guitar outside, Hard Rock has a pierced staff of skater boys and rock girls and a menu that is, if nothing else, completely reliable. Peruse rock’n’roll swag that includes Joplin’s blouse, Prince’s guitar and Shakira’s pants. $$ Sioux (D4) ul. Chmielna 35, tel. 22 827 8255, open Mon-Thu 11:00-22:00; Fri & Sat 11:0023:00; Sun 11:00-22:00, www.sioux.com. pl You might want to point the shotgun hanging on the wall at the chef. Decorated with horseshoes and feather headdresses, the only reason to show up is to humor a nagging infant. Food-wise, it’s little more

32

WARSAW INSIDER | APRIL 2014

than a cowboy-themed version of Sphinx: mass market food for those who don’t know better. $$ Someplace Else (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6710, open Mon-Thu 12:00-01:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 12:00-24:00, www. someplace-else.pl Favoring a stark concrete look, SPE were once a legend of 90s/00s Warsaw. Things have tamed down since that ex-pat heyday, but this remains a noteworthy choice for live MOR rock and zippy Tex Mex food. $$ T.G.I. Friday’s (B3) al. Jana Pawła II 29, tel. 22 653 8360, open Mon & Tue 11:00-23:00; Wed-Sat 11:0024:00; Sun 12:00-23:00, www.tgifridays.pl/ warszawa The steaks are a miss-and-miss affair, and even the burgers can’t compare to Warsaw’s armada of burgeries. And the interiors are just as you’d remember: crass, vulgar and stuck in the 90s. Why do people bother? $$

ASIAN Asia Tasty (C3) pl. Żelaznej Bramy 1, tel. 22 654 6120, open 9:00-21:00 One of the great secrets of culinary Warsaw – for those In The Know this is the place for cheap, cheerful Asian food.

Not that it looks like much, this is as basic as interiors get; leave the hot date outside while you pick-up a takeout. $ Canton (B2) ul. Smocza 1, tel. 22 838 3823, open daily 12:00-22:00, www.canton.warszawa.pl Here’s what Chinese restaurants used to look like in the days of Bruce Lee: filled with dragons and lanterns, this place is an outright assault on your sensory system. Wokking away for over a decade, it’s actually not a bad place if you want an MSG booster. The Gong Bao chicken gets approval. $$

Cesarski Pałac (D2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 9707, open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 12:3023:00; Sun 12:30-22:00, www.cesarskipalac.com A rouge tinted Chinese restaurant whose design even incorporates a footbridge. Widely acclaimed, this 18-year-old restaurant combines Sichuan

and Cantonese cuisine to serve a variety of dishes to an elegant backdrop. The Dim Sum are something else. $$ China Garden ul. Kazachska 1, tel. 22 241 1010, open daily 12:00-22:00, www.chinagarden.pl Bull’s testicles boiled with soy sprouts. Goose jaws.

Stewed bull’s penis with radish. Ah, these are meals for the brave. Allegedly the first Jiangsu restaurant in Warsaw, the tastes here are indeed unique. The China Garden isn’t the Imperial Palace, but the décor of straightbacked chairs and densely constructed wood tables casts an aura of formality. No lounging about here; serious eating is afoot! On the whole the dishes are delicate and delicious, and there are more cautious choices.

Du-Za Mi-Ha (D4) ul. Widok 16, tel. 22 447 2424, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-22:00 A compact Vietnamese joint noted for fresh, healthy nem filled with crunchy, perky fibers. The pho, on the other hand, is disappointing – according to one reader, “awful”. Prices begin at around

zł. 10 and don’t go far north of zł. 20. You get what you pay for. $ InAzia (E5) ul. B. Prusa 2 (Sheraton Hotel), tel. 22 450 6705, open Mon-Sat 17:00-23:00; Sun 12:30-16:30, www.restauracja-inazia.pl The Sheraton has a rich history of serving some of Warsaw’s best Asian food, with chef Marcin Sasin creating a menu that draws on influences as diverse as Indonesian, Vietnamese, Thai and Chinese. Popular with Thai diplomats and hushed hotel guests, the experience is worth the quite considerable splurge. $$$ Natara Old Town (D1) ul. Szeroki Dunaj 13, tel. 22 635 2501, open 11:00-23:00, www.natara.pl Set inside the Old Town walls, the setting is magical – from the outside. Inside, it’s all dowdy brown and plastic plants. Service, if you can call it that, teases patience to the max, but the food is fantastic. Everything we’ve tried on the menu goes right, not least the fiery red curry duck.

Highly recommended. $$

Papaya (E4) ul. Foksal 16, tel. 22 826 1199, open 12:00-24:00, www.papaya.waw.pl A place of precise lines and slick finishes, Papaya has a varied menu that uses influences from all over Asia, though particularly Thailand. But the star attraction is Preecha Wongsomboon, a Thai chef who fuses cookery with cabaret from behind a teppanyaki grill – his skills draw gasps. But between the honking horns and nifty knife work it becomes clear this is no novelty show: the food is top rate. $$ Pekin Duck ul. Drawska 29A, tel. 22 412 8988, open 12:00-22:00, www.pekinduck.pl Looks like a typical Chinese – i.e., like a 1980s New Year’s Eve ball – and the service is carnage; expect lots of miscommunication and truculent attitude. The food isn’t bad, though it’d be interesting to know how many pigs feet they actually ever sell. $$ Shabu Shabu Hot Pot (D6) ul. Mokotowska 27, tel. 535 685 750, open 12:00-22:30. shabu-shabu.pl Each table has

CARPACCIO ul. Nowy Świat 36, 22 692 47 26

Classic Italian cuisine: the delicious, honest tastes of a true trattoria

facebook.com/warsawinsider

33

RESTAURANTS Home Delivery Delivero www.delivero.pl Here’s the score: enter your postcode, then wait for the computer to kick into action and spit out the restaurants covered in your delivery zone. In general, the restaurants now err to the side of pizza and sushi choices. Internet ordering only, with no English language option.

Dominos Multiple locations, tel. 22 209 0000, open 10:00-23:00, www.dominospizza.pl They’re back! Years after shutting shop the Dominos crew return to Warsaw, and this time they’re better than ever.

It’s strictly takeaway/delivery only (unless you count the stand-up table outside), but these guys get listed for what amounts to the best delivered pizza in the history of Poland.

Pizza Portal www.pizzaportal.pl Nationwide service and similar to Delivero: tap in your postcode then wait for a list of choices to crunk out of the machine. As the name suggests, pizza is the forte, though there are also a heavy selection of randoms – kebabs, sushi, pierogi. 24hr pizza delivery options also available.

Room Service tel. 22 651 9003, www.roomservice.pl Deliver to over fifty restaurants under their umbrella, and can also turn their hand to delivering wine, beverages and flowers.

Web and phone orders taken in English and Polish, with delivery charges tagged between zł. 13 to zł. 25. Find venues like Blue Cactus, Le Cedre, Namaste, Sushi Zushi, Tomo and The Warsaw Tortilla Factory.

Royal Menu tel. 22 244 2121, www.royalmenu.pl Phone and internet delivery options, plus English language website and English speaking telpehone operators. Min. order of 50zł, with delivery charges ranging from 10zł to 24zł (Warsaw outskirts).

Credit cards accepted for orders of 80zł plus. Restaurants covered by this mob Home of as theRain Thursday inc. players such

by India Curry, Curry Club Osteria, Warsaw Papaya and Sakana.

34

WARSAW INSIDER | APRIL 2014

its own set of hot pots installed and once you choose your broth and extras, you are the master of your own culinary destiny. We chose some seafood and some greens and were served a dish that was not quite a pad thai, but incredibly tasty all the same. A simple meal, but satisfying nonetheless. $$ Silk & Spicy (D5) ul. Żurawia 16/20, tel. 22 629 7012, open Mon-Fri 11:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-2:00, www.silkandspicy.pl If you don’t benchmark Silk & Spicy against what you’d eat in Asia (and you really shouldn’t), then you might enjoy it. “The curry was on taste-wise,” said our disappointed graphic, “but the cream cheese didn’t work in the sushi and the kmichi-style salad served at the beginning was very pedestrian for such a place.” $ Spring Roll (D4) ul. Szpitalna 3, tel. 519 828 788, open MonFri 11:00-22:00; Sat 12:00-23:00 Baleful ballads and twangy cover versions of Bryan Bloody Adams set the mood in this eatery.

The signature dish – spring rolls – doesn’t go beyond six out of ten, so what hope the rest of the menu? The teriyaki chicken should be renamed teriyaki chicken giblets, and comes with the addition of the worst ingredient ever devised: steamed cauliflower. Ergh. Suddenly, all those empty seats make sense. $ Suparom Thai (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 45/49, tel. 22 627 1888, open daily 11:00-23:00, www.suparomthaifood.pl Lovely interior with Siamese gold ornaments and gleaming dark wood. The shrimp cakes are always worth a try. $$ Suparom Thaifood II al. Wilanowska 309, tel. 22 853 3087, open 10:00-21:00, www.suparomthaifood. pl Tiny, when compared to its parent on Marszałkowska, and distinctly unassuming.

Suparom’s green curry is the ‘best in the world’ according to one reader, and while such a superlative begs for a challenge, none is forthcoming – not from us, anyhow. $$ Thai Thai (C2) Pl. Teatralny 3, tel. 601 818 283, open 12:0023:00, www.thaithai.pl Sanad Changpuen, a man widely credited with popularizing Thai food in Poland, returns to Warsaw with predictable results: the food is a hit. And what a space this acclaimed chef has been blessed with: gold vaulted ceilings lend a muted glow to a largely black-on-black space; from the walls, serene looking Buddha’s peer

on diners down below. At once, the soothing interiors ease guests into a state of inner peace while Sanad does the rest. $$ Toan Pho (D4) ul. Chmielna 5/7, tel. 888 147 307, open Mon-Fri 9:30-21:30, Sat-Sun 10:00-21:30 Toan Pho’s bowls of soup with rice noodles come highly recommended; as does the chaos intrinsic to this type of casual Asian eatery. The short menu is in Vietnamese with Polish decoding – although you can ask for an English version. $ Why Thai (E5) ul. Wiejska 13, tel. 22 625 7698, open Sun-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00, www.whythai.pl A fresh attractive look, an authentic chef and a menu that doesn’t waffle on for pages and pages. But there’s something missing here, with the flavors not quite hitting the levels one expects. $$

*

Yummy (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 797 830 639, open 10:00-21:00, www.restauracjayummy.pl A naff name and empty interiors are enough to deter some people – don’t join their ranks.

Dishes here are uncomplicated but never cease to impress in that classic comfort food way. We swear by the orange chicken.

Looking modern, minimal and a cut above the other budget Asian eateries, it’s a decent choice for an informal meal. $

BALKAN & RUSSIAN Banja Luka (E8) ul. Szkolna 2/4, tel. 22 828 1060, open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.banjaluka.pl Numerous meaty dishes from Serbia and Croatia are served inside Banja Luka, a Warsaw stalwart who’ve moved with the times and... moved. The new, central location is as pleasing as the last, with lots of clunky timber and imported ceramics. $$ Babooshka (E3) ul. Oboźna 9, lok. 102, tel. 22 406 3366, open 12:00-22:00, www.babooshka.pl Looking intimate and woodsy Babooshka serves up dollops of simple Russian food to a budget conscious crowd. The bacon and tomato scented solyanka soup is a thick broth best suited for Warsaw’s long, windy nights. $ Gemo ul. Minska 25 (Soho Factory), tel. 22 468

1876, open 12:00-22:00 At last, a Georgian restaurant without gnarled furniture and peasant fabrics. Located inside Soho Factory, Gemo has a severe, industrial style accented further by steel lights and exposed pipework. The menu is modestly priced, yet includes several dishes to return for: the szaszlyk, for one. $ Montenegro (E6) ul. Natolińska 3, tel. 885 787 887, open 11:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-23:00, www. montenegro.happytables.com The two levels are covered in soothing whites, and the interiors suggest a makeover conducted with little budget but plenty of taste. Servings are immense, leaving diners no room to explore other courses, and while the cevapcici (hand-rolled mince) are decent, they’re no superior to anything you might get in a reputable kebab store – but the reaction from Warsaw’s food blogs suggests we may have visited on a bad day. $ U Madziara (B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 620 1423, open

Mon 11:30-20:00; Tue & Wed 11:3021:00; Thu & Fri 11:30-22:00; Sat 12:0022:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, www.umadziara.pl U Madziara looks like it took two days to decorate. No-one goes here to marvel at the interiors though, they go in the knowledge that they’ll find great food at prices that all bank accounts can support. On a grim sleety day, chef Gabor’s signature goulash makes winter not just manageable, but welcome! $

BRITISH British Bulldog (D4) ul. Krucza 51, tel. 22 827 0020, open 11:00-1:00, www.bbpub.pl The pub design is wonderful, and straight out of Midsummer Murders with its Chesterfield sofas and Cutty Sark mirrors. But it’s been a downhill disaster since they lost the original management team.

What could have become Poland’s original gastro pub now serves greasy burgers and, judging by the stench at the bar, lots of food that’s way over-fried. $$

Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640, open Mon-Fri 11:00-last guest; Sat-Sun 10:00-last guest, www.legendsbar.pl It’s a British pub first and foremost, but don’t forego the kitchen either. The all-day breakfast is a great way to stoke up your drinking powers, while other dishes of note inc. pies, sausages and mash and, of course, fish and chips. $$

BURGERS Barn Burger (D4) ul. Złota 9. tel. 512 157 567, open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat 13:00-22:00; 13:00-21:00, www.barnburger.pl What finished summer 2012 as Warsaw’s most talked about burger has seen its stock nosedive somewhat.

Even so, you’ll still find several people out there who remain fiercely loyal to their quite considerable offer. On our part, the Insider remains partial to the occasional Muppet Burger: a messy affair loaded with salsa, jalapenos and BBQ sauce. By the time you’ve finished with it, the wooden board it’s served

facebook.com/warsawinsider

35

RESTAURANTS on will look like Jack the Ripper has just passed through town. $ Bobby Burger (C4) ul. E. Plater 47, tel. 785 833 603, pen 12:00-22:00, bobbyburger.pl Perplexingly popular with hipsters who wouldn’t know a good burger if their skinny jeans depended on it. Now sporting a new location (the old one on Żurawia also continues, alas), this bottom feeder continues to prove popularity isn’t always a measure of quality. $

*

Brooklyn Burgers & Wings (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel. 22 270 2144, open Sun-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-4:00; Sun 12:00-23:00 There are some people out there who call this Warsaw’s best burger – and we’re not talking about hipsters on longboards but American ex-pats who know the score. They come here in droves to sample a menu finessed by American/ Polish chef Alan Bohinski whose know-how extends to delicious homemade sauces, ribs, strips and wings. Certainly, any Top 3 list of Warsaw’s burger joints would be invalid without the inclusion of this lot. Now also on Jana Pawła 18. $

Burger Kitchen (D4) ul. Widok 8, tel. 22 464 8284, open Mon-Wed 7:30-23:00; Thu-Fri 7:30-1:00; Sat 9:001:00; Sun 9:00-20:00, www.burgerkitchen. pl Opened at a time when most burgeristas

had already sworn allegiance to their favorite, the opening of Burger Kitchen surprised everyone. Celebrity chef Tomek Woźniak clocked 64,000 kilometers checking out global street food trends, and his painstaking research is evidenced in Warsaw’s best burgers. Indestructible in architecture, these blighters come in brioche-style buns and with own-brand ketchup that utilizes 24 different Italian tomatoes. It’s the undisputed No. 1 in town, and also notable for steaks, shakes and brilliant breakfasts. $ Bydło i Powidło (A5) ul. Kolejowa 47, tel. 22 400 48 44, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-21:00 Set in a modern glass prism, here’s a place that’s realized you can’t get away with just serving burgers anymore (though here, they’re very good indeed). Unfortunately, the steak part of the menu just isn’t there yet. Ćwierćfunciak (C1) ul. Andersa 30, tel. 799 328 822, open Mon-Thu 12:00-21:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 13:00-21:00 Hidden in the gastronomic wasteland of Muranów, the impossibly named Ćwierćfunciak impresses with slathers of gloriously fresh ingredients, not to mention complimentary sides of hand-cut chips.

Ranked in the Insider’s Top 5 best burger joints, that the resident beers are sourced from Pinta earns this friendly local a few extra points. $ Między Bułkami (D4) Al. Jerozolimskie 23, tel. 22 126 0159, open

Moonsfera presents author’s cuisine, a private room and the best rooftop terrace from which to enjoy superb wine and excellent tastes. We promise a fusion of flavors that will leave you inspired.

ul.Wybrzeże Gdyńskie 4 (Centrum Olimpijskie) tel. 22 560 3733 ask@moonsfera.pl www.moonsfera.pl Open 12:00-23:00

36

WARSAW INSIDER | APRIL 2014

11:00-23:00 You want to yell, “stop opening burger joints!” But ‘Between the Buns’ is one of those additions we really don’t mind: there’s nothing original about the menu, nor the presentation, but the quality is a solid 8/10. $ Warburger (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1. Open Mon-Sat 12:0020:00; Sun 12:00-19:00, www.warburger.pl Forget Year of the Dragon, 2012 was Year of the Burger – or more specifically, Year of the WarBurger. Edging the competition (at least till Burger Kitchen came along), this diminutive little cabin wins eulogies across the board for base-level prices, super friendly service and pimped up burgers that use gourmet ingredients. $ Queen Burger (E5) ul. Hoża 1a, tel. 733 142 492, open SunThu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-3:00 The look screams US roadside diner, but inside it’s all young city style mavens. The choice extends to house specialties such as gringo, teriyaki and femiburger, though our advice to meatheads is to simply stick to the classic cheeseburger: it’s a towering stack of ultra-satisfaction. We’ve experienced nightmarish waiting times, but like WarBurger, that’s just added proof they’re doing something very right. $

CHEAP EATS Bar Turecki “Efes” (H4) ul. Francuska 1, tel. 22 616 2580, open daily 11:00-21:00. ul. Aleje Niepodleglości 80, tel.

22 898 3001, open daily 11:00-22:00 So it’s a kebab shop, but when the kebabs are this good they’re well worth the listing. Either join the queue outside, or head indoors to sample the smattering of grill food and salads. $ Diner 55 (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34 Set in a dark, industrial basement, they’ve clearly got the younger 20s crowd in mind – from the speakers hip hop thugs brag about putting caps in your “mother f@ck!ng n!gga’ ass.” But the menu, an alliance between Pan Burger, Rico’s Tacos and Mr. Pancake is fabulous, with the tacos our major highlight. $ Fabryka Frytek (D4) ul. Złota 3, tel. 505 671 334, open Mon-Thu 11:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. ul. Waryńskiego 9, tel. 505 671 334, open Mon-Thu 11:00-24:00;

SPONSORED ARTICLE

In essence, what are your rules running a restaurant…

One of the most important factors for me is that people who work in Butchery and Brasserie share a passion for the job: that every day they arrive hungry for new challenges, ready to learn and are serious about the job. All aspects and details are important: clean floors, reservation confirmations, a correctly written menu, the stock of wines and spirits, new specials, deliveries, etc. A well-motivated team that wants to exceed expectations is key. Finding, building and motivating a team like that is the biggest challenge to us restaurateurs.

ON THE TOP TABLE

With both his restaurants recommended in the Michelin Main Cities of Europe guide, owner Daniel Pawełek talks about his success…

What is your philosophy regarding food and drink…

My philosophy is quiet simple: to create positive experiences in my restaurants, and to make people feel good by providing genuine service and serving good quality food. It sounds simple but it’s very hard to achieve!

In the relatively short time both restaurants have been open they’ve been huge hits. What’s the secret to your success?

Like Butchery & Wine, I think Brasserie Warszawska’s name tells people what they can expect: dishes such as snails bourguignon, foie gras or fish dishes and steaks not to mention basic things like bearnaise sauce or red wine sauce made to the best classical recipes. And of course there are timeless Warsaw dishes like veal tongue in aspic or tripe soup, which are also associated with French cuisine. This aside, we strive to create both a bond and a narrative strand between the name and the menu, right down to the décor and clothing of the personnel. It was a great that Brasserie won a Bib Gourmand after just one year, especially now Warsaw has so many Frenchorientated restaurants - and the inspectors appreciated the Warsaw touch!

Both restaurants are fairly simple concepts. With Butchery & Wine the concept is based on great steaks and my favourite dishes such as bone marrow, scallops with budin noir, foie gras parfait, and a great selection of handpicked wines that complement the menu. Before opening the restaurant I spent a lot of time searching for beef in Poland. I visited several slaughterhouses and I believe that I have since shown that both Polish and foreign meat have the right to exist in such a pure, grilled form.

Warsaw has undergone a food revolution – what’s happened in the last few years, what’s gone right?

In our case, both in Butchery and Brasserie, it feels like most of the time we are exceeding the expectations of our guests – whether they’re visitors to Warsaw or live here, whether they’re Polish or foreign. That’s because we take a pride in what we do. We always try to be one step ahead of the guest when it comes to understanding their needs while at the same time providing great food and wine at reasonable prices.

Butchery & Wine ul. Żurawia 22, www.butcheryandwine.pl Brasserie Warszawska ul. Górnośląska 24 www.brasseriewarszawska.pl

facebook.com/warsawinsider

37

RESTAURANTS Fri-Sat 11:00-01:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www. fabrykafrytek.pl Giant portions of Belgian fries (up to 600g!), waffles, wedges and whatever else you can make out of a potato come served with an equally comprehensive range of dips and sauces. $ Friterie (D5) ul. Hoża 42, tel. 794 158 813, open Sun-Thu 10:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-2:00 Served in paper cones, the Belgian-style chips come with that inimitable double-fried crunch and a range of sauces that merit experimentation: try the ‘Andaluse’. $ Groole (D6) ul. Śniadeckich 8, tel. 795 633 626, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-20:00, www.groole.pl You’ll find potatoes served everywhere in Poland, just not in the way we like them: i.e., with a crunchy, crispy skin and lots of hot, melted goo. Groole fill that gap with jacket spuds loaded with toppings such as spicy cherry tomatoes or chicken curry. A revelation! $

*

Hummus Bar (B4) ul. Żelazna 64, tel. 723 058 223, open 11:00-19:00, www.hummsubar.pl Much like the lime green interior, the concept is simple and straightforward: hummus, falafel and fresh pitta breads served to a busy lunchtime crowd. There’s nothing more to say other than its utterly delicious. $ Justyna’s Secret Recipes (C4) ul. Marszałkowska 138, open Mon-Fri

7:00-21:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-21:00. www. jsecretrecipes.com We’re told Justyna was inspired by the Pret-a-Manger chain. Whatever the case, you just can’t fault her sandwiches which are fixed using proper imported bacon, organic sundries, and the freshest of bread.

The delivery service is highly recommended for desk-bound officebots. $

*

La Farine Al. Jana Pawła II 41A, tel. 793 929 210, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-20:00, lafarine.pl Traditional-style Lebanese flat breads cooked to perfection inside a narrow little space which many passers-by confuse with a kebab shop – whatever you do, don’t do that yourself. Instead, think of it as Lebanese style pizza, only better. $ Manekin (C3) ul. Marszalkowska 140, tel. 22 826 0753, open Sun-Thu 10:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:0023:00, www.manekin.pl Originally founded in Toruń, this pancake house chain is a national phenomenon – at times, queues for a table snake outside. The menu touts dozens of pancake options served in sweet and savory form (there’s even a spaghetti version…), and most agree they’re worth the ridiculous waiting times - waits in excess of 20 minutes (and considerably more) are the norm. $ Meat Love (D5) ul. Hoża 62, tel. 500 149 210, open Mon-Thu 10:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-last guest; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.meatlove.pl An artisan

sandwich stop that’s entered via a clattering door and a plunging set of steps. In the past you could have described Meat Love as almost Middle Earth in spirit – all wooden crates and tight little spaces. Now though, they’ve knocked a wall through, opening the space up considerably. No changes on the menu though, just premium, long-cooked meat stuck between fresh, fragrant baguettes.

The blush colored roast beef will make your knees tremble. $ Mr Pancake (E3) ul. Solec 50, tel. 501 237 461, open MonSat 11:00-10:00; Sun 12:00-8:00, www.mrpancake.pl You’re just going to love their pancakes, with their fun, wacky look and creative toppings (M&Ms, funny faces traced with icing sugar, and lots of chocolatey stuff).

They’re the sort of pancakes you’d get if Bart Simpson got stoned and decided to make some food – brilliant. $ Soul Food Bus ul. Marynarska 11, tel. 513 609 480, open Mon-Fri 12:00-15:00. ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 407, tel. 501 201 975, open Mon-Sun 12:30-20:30 You can’t miss this place: it’s a big red truck/bus. Their m.o is simple enough. Eleven types of burgers, and seven quesadillas, served from late until even later.

Note they do move around and the open hrs are subject to change – Facebook them for their latest GPS. $ To Tu Dumpling Bar ul. Niekłańska 33, open 11:00-20:00,

ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 97 07 www.cesarski-palac.com.pl Cesarski Palace has thrived in Warsaw for 18 years – from the outset we were the first to offer authentic Chinese dishes, including our signature Peking Duck which comes baked in a custom-made oven and served with pancakes, cucumbers, por and a special sauce.

Expect personalized service and special attention from the chef inside a restaurant sensitive to Feng Shui requirements. There’s nothing comparable to our perfect tastes!

38

WARSAW INSIDER | APRIL 2014

www.chinskapierogarnia.pl A shabby looking shack cabin, To Tu offer what are seriously considered some of the best – if not the best – dim sum in town. Magic-ked up by a Manchurian exile, the experience isn’t unlike being in a sweaty back street haunt in Asia.

And that’s a good thing! $ Wheel Meal www.facebook.com/wheelmealpl A Mexican food truck whose location varies with the day – check their Facebook. They’re worth tracing as the burritos are certainly a candidate for Warsaw’s best: and the sauces tingle as well. $ Wurst Kiosk (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 17, tel. 606 133 134, open Mon-Fri 11:00-21:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-19:00 Imported German sausages served through a hole-in-a-wall with big dabs of mustard and fresh buns to go with them.

The currywurst is just like the one you had at Berlin Hauptbahnhof. $

CUBAN El Caribe ul. Mickiewicza 9, tel. 22 400 0994. Open Mon-Thu 12:30-24:00; Fri-Sat 12:30-1:00; Sun 12:30-22:30 Start with a round of daiquiris before ordering frijoles negroes (black beans). But everyone agrees, it’s the flan that gets you doing the cha cha. With the cooking left to a Cuban exile, this perky spot is worth the trip north to Żoliborz. $$

FRENCH

*

Bistro La Cocette ul. Mokotowska 12, tel. 664 906 000, open 10:00-23:00. A riot of red gingham awaits in this courtyard hideaway, a quaint dining space that gushes with intimacy.

Serving classic French home cooking, it’s a wonderful place to sample the plat du jour scribbled up on the blackboard. On our visit that meant near perfect moules mariniere – oh la la.

Bistro Pigalle (D5) ul. Hoża 41 (enter from Poznańska), tel.

881 000 182. There’s a lot to like: the warm beckoning light that glows from the windows. But there’s even more to dislike: scratched, smudged fittings, the one song on continuous loop, and a zł. 76 steak that’s way undercooked. Listen carefully and you might hear it moo. Early days yet for this newbie, but not the most encouraging of starts. $$ L’Arc (E8) ul. Puławska 16, tel. 519 000 050, open 10:00-last guest, www.larc.pl French food just hasn’t broken through in Warsaw in the way other European cuisines have. So Francophiles are indebted, somewhat, to the existence of L’Arc, a place of considered elegance, subtle decorations and monochrome colors. They’re especially noted for their obsessive attitude to seafood (pick from five types of oysters, or delve into the fish

tank for the lobster of your choosing), inventive mains and desserts that are heaven. $$ Le Bistro Rozbrat ul. Rozbrat 44, tel. 22 881 7808, open 12:0024:00. The signs suggest that Powiśle is set to mature in 2014, making the transition from hipster haunt to restaurant breeding ground – and here is Exhibit A. Owned by Frenchman Alain Budzyk, the interiors are contemporary casual, with talking points saved for the food.

The concise menu has token nods to Spanish cuisine, as well as a steak bavette that’s being raved about on the blogs. $$

GERMAN Adler (E5) ul. Mokotowska 69, tel. 22 628 73 84, open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-24:00, www.adlerrestauracja.pl Set in a rustic rotunda, this veteran favorite packs in reassuringly caloric portions of pork knuckles, schnitzel and dumplings – all of a sudden, you understand why Helmut Kohl looks so large. Foaming beers served by Bavarian country maids complete the authenticity. $

GREEK & TURKISH Paros (D4) ul. Jasna 14/16, tel. 22 828 1067, open 12:00-last guest, www.paros-restauracja.pl Out of all of the Warsaw’s Greek contributions Paros dazzles most, with a glitzy look that’s

Le Cedre 84

Le Cedre 61

opposite the court Al. Solidarności 84 Tel 22 618 89 99 lecedre84@lecedre.pl

opposite the zoo Al. Solidarności 61, Praga Tel 22 670 11 66 lecedre@lecedre.pl

Taste the Exotic

www.lecedre.pl

facebook.com/warsawinsider

39

RESTAURANTS a complete u-turn from the typical tawerna look. Owned by the same team behind El Greco, the menu is identical, as is the quality – good to excellent. $$ Santorini ul. Egipska 7, tel. 22 672 0525, open daily 12:00-23:00, www.kregliccy.pl/santorini. php Santorini looks scuffed and tired but there’s a bonhomie present that instantly engages. The kitchen attaches no value to things like presentation, preferring instead to simply treat diners to piles of grilled and skewered food that consistently tastes right – and the milefi dessert is magic. $$ Sofra (C6) ul. Wilcza 71, tel. 731 847 731, open MonThu 10:00-23:00; Fri & Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-22:00 On the design front it’s almost a straight plagiary of Charlotte: white brickwork, blackboard, communal table. So the surprise here is the food – Turkish. And not just any Turkish, but brilliant Turkish!

It’s nothing fancy, but there’s a real honest quality to the moussaka and lamb and beef

in tomato sauce. And the desserts are a real spoiler as well. $

INDIAN Bombaj Masala (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 606 688 777, open 11:00-23:00, www.bombajmasala.pl Ringed by offices and five star hotels, Bombaj Masala thrives in its role as an upmarket Indian restaurant – and yes, it’s nice to see Indian restaurants moving away from the Santa’s Grotto look. For all that, most agree Bombaj is over-priced and over-rated. $$ Chmielarnia (B4) ul. Twarda 42 (basement level), tel. 725 010 271, open Mon-Thu 11:00-24:00; Fri 11:00-2:00; Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 11:0024:00, www.chmielarnia.waw.pl Not only does Chmielarnia house some of the world’s best beers (see Nightlife), but also – as the shrine by the door may suggest – a very good restaurant. Sure, you’re eating in a dark and loud beer cellar (to us that’s a bonus), but the

Savor the sweet flavors of the holidays…

Nepalese chef Ram knows what he’s doing.

And aside from Indian and Nepalese staples, there’s a menu tailor-made for the beer swiggers. $ Curry House ul. Żeromskiego 81, tel. 508 870 774 & al.

Ken 47, tel. 22 213 0689, open daily 11:0022:00, curryhouse.com.pl A primitive design (port-a-loo toilet, barred windows) and far-flung location have not hindered Curry House one bit. It’s a legend, not least for their vindaloo – a macho dish that provokes spontaneous combustion. Be warned: no beer. $

*

Ganesh (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16, tel. 22 416 4162, open 12:00-24:00, www.ganesh.pl Vast and usually empty the new Ganesh lacks the intimacy of the previous outpost on Wilcza and already looks a little scuffed and tired.

While other Indian giants such as Rain and Tandoor have reinvented and rebooted themselves Ganesh plug away with an old menu of standard (and occasionally sub-standard)

Thoughtful moments and unique flavors, Celebrate Easter in true festive fashion, At Smaki Warszawy restaurant and confectionery.

Taste our festive flavors on your table.

We look forward to welcoming you!

Warsaw, Żurawia 47/49 reservations: tel. +48 (22) 621 82 68 www.smakiwarszawy.pl

40

WARSAW INSIDER | APRIL 2014

dishes. With excellence assured in Tandoor round the corner, you wouldn’t bet on Ganesh filling their million vacant tables. $$

fire. As the burning euphoria subsides, you’re left basking in that blissful, euphoric glow all hotheads will know. $

Himalaya Momo ul. Ząbkowska 36, tel. 22 297 2100, open Mon-Fri 11:00-21:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-21:30, www.himalayamomo.com There’s only four tables here, so don’t linger. The size means several staples have been cut from the menu, among them naan bread – there’s no space for a tandoor oven, you see. What kind of Indian restaurant forgets a tandoor oven? In this case, a very good one. What does appear on the Tibetan / Indian menu is usually delicious. $

Mandala (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 9/11, tel. 22 428 44 54, open Mon-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-21:00, www.mandalaklub.com or www.indiaexpress.pl Keen, supersize portions and an efficient home delivery service (indiaexpress.pl) have made this lot something of a bookmark. Not dissimilar from the curries you may have survived on as a student, Mandala are cheap and decent, though several rungs below the top curries in town – it’s an ok means to an end. $

Madras Al. Solidarnosci 129/131, tel. 536 335 333, open 11:00-22:00. While it looks cheap, cramped and rather claustrophobic Madras has been installed as our No. 1 source of curry since opening late last year. There are softer options available, but for a proper winter tickler then look no further than the vindaloo: even your hair will feel like it’s on

Mr India Al. KEN 47, tel. 22 213 0689, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www. mrindia.pl Opened by the creators of Curry House, Mr India touts the same menu but an interior that’s a substantial upgrade to its older sibling. As with the original, the spicy dishes could floor an elephant. It’s become a lifeline for Brits shipwrecked in Ursynów. $$

Namaste India (D1 & D5) ul. Piwna 12/14, tel. 22 635 7766, open 10:30-23:00, ul. Nowogrodzka 27, tel. 22 357 0939, open Mon-Thu 11:00-22:30; Fri-Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.namasteindia.pl A ferociously loyal customer base proclaim this as their favorite curry in town. Highly recommended, find the original, more modest version on Nowogrodzka, and a (very) slightly more upmarket offering in Old Town. $ Rain by India Curry (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 438 9350, open Mon-Sun 12:00-23:00, www.rain.pl Ray Bridgeford, the former owner of the legendary Sense, is the man behind the miraculous resuscitation of India Curry. Fresh contemporary interiors impart a chic, classy aesthetic, but it’s the menu that’s become the talk of the expats. Our curry expert rates the starters as the best he’s had in ANY Indian restaurant, but that’s not all… lending this place serious credentials as Warsaw’s best Indian are a feisty vindaloo and initiatives such as the Thursday night Rain Curry Club (zł. 69 for

Spanish cuisine restaurant

TOP QUALITY PRODUCTS

* Uniquely delicious steaks * WAGUY beef Kobe Style * Spanish aged beef

* Bluefin tuna steak and toro * Iberico Bellota ham * Fresh foie gras

2 bracka street (next to Plac Trzech Krzyży Square) Warszawa

+48 519 875 767 ole@ole-restaurant.pl facebook.com/warsawinsider

41

RESTAURANTS curry, breads and starters), and their zł. 25 Tiffins lunch deals. $$

a couple of years in the doldrums, Tandoor is back with a bang. $$

*

INTERNATIONAL & FUSION

Rasoi (C5) ul. Chmielna 98, tel. 729 392 172, open 11:00-22:00. Throttled by roads and underpasses, while you may be able to see it from Złote Tarasy, good luck getting there in under ten minutes. But the location aside, there’s something very promising here. Good, well-priced curries inside a charmingly tacky interior of colorful cushions and a collection of trinkets. $$ Saffron Spices (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 3, tel. 22 622 9410, open 12:00-23:00, www.saffronspices.pl Set on two floors Saffron has a menu more limited than most, though they have at least finally introduced alcohol. The murgh makhani is inconsistent, and the chicken, in the words of one reader, ‘strange’. $$

*

Tandoor (D7) ul. Marszałkowska 21/25, tel. 22 825 2375, open 12:00-22:30, www.tandoor.com.pl After nearly 20 years at the helm, owner Charanjit Walia has sold up and moved on, leaving a spiritual hole in his life-defining work. His parting shot has been a re-haul which has seen not just the interior modernized, but the menu – start with the pea and basil soup before moving onto the chicken tamarind or the chicken sholay kebab. Coated in absinth, it’s set aflame at the table. Traditionalists will also approve: the ‘classic’ menu features a formidable chicken tikka butter masala. After

42

WARSAW INSIDER | APRIL 2014

4/Czwarte ul. Piaseczynska 71, tel. 22 100 3139, open daily 9:00-21:00, www.4czwarte. pl 4/Czwarte sits smack in the middle of Warszawianka’s 29 tennis courts. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, it can be rather motivating to eat and drink to the plop of the tennis balls. Chef Kinga Araucz brings a fresh eye to food in Warsaw, and her modern menu combines well with the pleasantly congenial atmosphere and sharp interior. $$ 12 Stolików ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 795 373 815, open 9:00-23:00 Affecting a boutique style, the look here is clean, crisp and scattered with lifestyle titles. And forming the central element is the kitchen – yes, here’s a place that promotes cooking as a form of theater.

The menu is chalked on a board, and while the aglio e olio was overcooked, the big guns came out for the steak: a very decent piece of meat. Enjoyable enough, though nothing particularly memorable. $$ Akademia (E9) ul. Różana 2, tel. 22 828 99 11, open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-18:00, www.restauracjaakademia.pl The most high profile launch of 2013, with whole sections of the street blocked off to keep the beautiful

people from being molested by the public.

But while the prevailing attitude is snooty, chef Grzegorz Nowakowski has done an excellent job on an artfully simple menu that fits seamlessly with the white-on-white interiors. $$ A Nóż (D9) ul. Różana 30, tel. 608 386 388, open daily 9:00-23:00, www.anoz.pl ‘A Jack of all trades, master of none,’ you might think. You’d be wrong. Burgers, pastas, Asian-inspired salads, and pizzas are represented, and while some dishes require fine-tuning, the overall impression is positive. Paired with a cool, typically Warsaw interior (white, white, white), the owners have a real success story on their hands. $ Bistecca Bistro ul. Branickiego 11, tel. 22 258 1243, open Sun-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00, www.bistecca.pl It happened so suddenly.

Warsaw went from meat loser to meat lover in the space of a year. Bistecca, opened over 2 years ago, was one of the early pioneers, and to date remains one of the best. That people travel from well outside Wilanów to sample its delights speaks volumes. Pride of place goes to their signature Bistecca steak: a one kilo T-Bone shaped joint with strip steak on one side and tenderloin on the other. For the thrill of DIY tableside cooking, order one of their ‘various kinds of meat grilled over volcanic stone’.

Boathouse ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 389a, tel. 22 616

BROUGHT TO YOU BY BLUE CACTUS

PLEASED TO MEAT YOU

Since joining the Blue Cactus last year executive chef Patrick Hanna has breathed new life – and fire – into this capital city legend…

W PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT

hen it opened, back in 1996, the Blue Cactus offered a lifeline to Warsaw’s ex-pats: not just those deprived of Tex-Mex food, but those who appreciated small matters like Western standards and customer service. It is no lie to say the opening of the Cactus revolutionized the city. Eighteen years on and the Blue Cactus isn’t just as good as before, it’s better, and credit for that is directly attributed to the resuscitative powers of Patrick Hanna – a Californian chef who once worked under such luminaries as Thomas Keller and Wolfgang Puck.

Recruited last April, Hanna’s re-haul of the menu has seen a shift towards locavore philosophies, with the kitchen utilizing fresh, local ingredients wherever possible: no processed nasties here, instead find a true celebration of natural flavors. But, in his mission to return Blue Cactus to the top of its pile, Hanna has unleashed another secret weapon: a wood-fired Champion Tuff grill imported from Nashville.

The only such grill in Poland, it’s no surprise to find this baby assuming prominence in the restaurant’s principal dining room. And boy, does Hanna know how to use it.

Our mixed plate includes skewered shrimps that pack a spicy bite, and two steaks cooked both medium and rare.

The smoky aftertaste compliments the meat perfectly, and

brings to mind childhood barbecues under the stars – a magical sensation. With much of Warsaw’s steaks ending in crushing disappointment, you don’t have to be obsessive about your meat to note that the Cactus elevates the simple but tricky art of the grill to a whole new level. Ladies and gents, your search for steak is over.

Blue Cactus ul. Zajączkowska 11, www.bluecactus.pl

facebook.com/warsawinsider

43

RESTAURANTS 3223, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00- 18:00, www.boathouse.pl For the supersize treatment head to Boathouse, a leviathan restaurant set in three acres of parkland. The menu is Mediterranean in style with strong hints of Italian, though how they fare having lost their French chef Luc remains to be seen. $$ Brasserie Warszawska (E5) ul. Górnośląska 24, tel. 22 628 9423, open Mon 12:00-22:00; Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-20:00, www.brasseriewarszawska.pl A posh looking bistro whose credentials are supported by crisp shirted staff, gleaming surfaces and zinc mirrors. The Fine de Claire oysters on a bed of fennel are outstanding, but what catches the attention of the ex-pats is the English influence of an owner who once managed The Grill at London’s Dorchester Hotel. The Friday fish & chips win emphatic approval. The Sunday roast lacks gravy and consistency, and you may find yourself asking for extra red wine sauce to moisten the Yorkshire Pudding – but it’s worth the chance; when everything goes right it’s utterly victorious. $$$ Bufet Centralny (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34, tel 532 749 160, open Mon-Thu 11:30-2:00; Sat 15:00-5:00, www. bufetcentralny.pl With white tiles, an artsy carpentered bar and draftsman desk lamps hanging from the walls, Bufet certainly gets points for design. The Hungarian fish soup is delicious, while the chocolate soufflé is airy, gooey and all things nice. But choice

diminishes quickly – get there early to order the ribs. $$ Butchery & Wine (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 502 3118, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00, www. butcheryandwine.pl Has it really been that long? Opened to wide acclaim in 2011, Butchery & Wine stirred Warsaw’s appetite for quality red meat. Served on wooden boards by staff in butchers aprons, the steaks are beyond reproach and the wine list suited to the meat fest in front. Many hail this as Poland’s best steak, and you can definitely see where they’re coming from. $$

By The Way Bottega Kulinarna (E3) ul. Lipowa 7a, tel. 22 692 7239, open 12:00-22:00, www.bytheway.com.pl Everything here looks fantastic – the pared down interiors with their concrete greys and houndstooth touches, and the food. Oh yes, the food. There’s about five mains to hover on, the highlight being the duck breast. The meringue dessert is heaven, as well. $$ Bydło i Poidło (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2216, open Mon-Thu 12:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-21:00 Filled with rawhide and industrial undertones, this grown-up version of Bydło i Powidło (see Burgers), has its accent on more high-end meats: and by

that we mean steaks. Hopefully, they’re an improvement on the ones served by their sister – we’ll be visiting soon to see. $$ Central Park ul. Belwederska 13, tel. 22 400 8048, open Mon-Fri 8:00-22:00, Sat-Sun 9:00-22:00, www.centralparkwarsaw.pl This is what happens when you faff about for months – much hyped, Central Park just hasn’t met expectations. Fine as a neighborhood hangout, this is an eatery that buys into the trend of natural, quality produce. But we’ve seen it all before, and it does little to stand apart from the crowd. $$ Concept 13 (D4) ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7373, open Mon-Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 11:00-16:00 Perched on the fifth floor of the Vitkac luxury department store, Concept 13 has a look that’d be approved of by any lifestyle mag: hardwood floors, glass and plenty of open spaces. The menu is contemporary and cleverly direct: five course set lunch menus from zł. 50, served between 11:00 and 16:00. Modern designer dining rarely gets better. $$$ Der Elefant (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, tel. 22 890 0010, open 12:0024:00, www.derelefant.com A Titanic-sized restaurant with a disorganized menu that appears to have been devised by throwing darts at a cookbook: Mediterranean mezze, Tom Yum soup, burgers, pierogi, etc. But if the menu is blurry, the cooking isn’t: it’s average/ acceptable to very good. The interiors are a

A fresh taste of Italy in the heart of Poland

WWW.VAPIANO.PL

1 | APRIL 2014 44Insider_VP.indd WARSAW INSIDER

UL. Taśmowa 7 TeL: +48 22 356 10 50 warszawa@vapiano.pl

aL. jerozoLimskie 63 (róg z e.PLaTer) TeL: +48 22 852 49 65 warszawa2@vapiano.pl

gaLeria mokoTów UL. wołoska 12 TeL: +48 600 325 883 warszawa3@vapiano.pl

24/10/13 12:26 PM

maze of wrought iron and monochrome tiles, and frequently pack out to the rafters with families and other unwieldy groups. $$ Downtown Restaurant (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental Hotel, level 2), tel. 22 328 8745, open Mon-Fri for Breakfast 6:30-10:00; Sat 6:30-11:00, 12:00-15:00, 18:00-23:00; Sat 12:0016:00, Sunday Brunch 12:30-16:00, dinner 18:00-23:00 There’s now a few candidates for Warsaw’s best steak, and Downtown have certainly upped the erm, stakes, with their new menu. Yes, the doors of Downtown are a gateway to heaven – particularly true if, like us, your vision of heaven is a rich green field filled with fat, juicy cows. But don't for one moment assume the offer ends with cows.

Now added to their menu are other animalitos like kangaroo. $$$ Duchnicka Wine & Food ul. Duchnicka 3, tel. 22 320 2989, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00, duchnickawinebar. com Michał Budnik, a rising star with a bright future ahead, excels in this loft-style warehouse. His menu includes cappuccino soup, and a totally triumphant rack of lamb. $$ Grill & Co (B9) ul. Żaryna 2B (Milllennium Park, Building C), tel. 22 646 0045, open Mon-Fri 7:30-23:00; Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www. grill-co.com Featuring plexiglass seats and clean, dark woods this place could easily be mistaken as one of the trend dens on Mazowiecka. A top (m)eatery, the filet mignon

is perfect, and served with generous sides.

Prices, too, are pleasingly moderate. $$ Haka (D4) ul. Bracka 20, open 12:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-last guest. Yes it’s a bar, but there is a talent in the kitchen that elevates it beyond just normal bar standard. That’s Shane, a New Zealander whose put a London past to good use by coming up with an evolving menu that’s seen such items as kangaroo steak, five spiced pork belly and modern interpretations of British classics: shepherd’s pie, for instance. $$ The Harvest (L12) Domaniewska 34A (Ambassador Office Building), tel. 660 750 600, open Mon-Thu 12:00-24:00, Fri Sat 12:00-last guest, www. theharvest.pl A muted design of charcoal colors and concrete surfaces sets the scene for an upmarket experience exclusively enjoyed by the suit and tie brigade. Despite the corporate circle jerk, some of the food is bewilderingly good – the filet Rossini is pure luxury. True, you get the idea that chef Robert Trzópek (formerly El Bulli, Noma), has been told, “look bud, no crazy stuff out there,” but the lack of innovation is a minor quibble.

We’ve been told once this newbie settles a bit to expect a more creative tasting menu. $$$ Hoża by Mondovino (D5) ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 603 778 275, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00

Wine and steak: it sounds so simple, but Hoża have taken two simple pleasures to another level. It’s a vibrant space with service right out of charm school, and a kitchen team with a real knowledge of cows. A red blooded affair, the menu is a steak sensation and well paired with a handpicked wine list. $$ Jasna 24 (D4) ul. Jasna 24, tel. 22 447 24 41, open Mon-Fri 11:00-23:00; Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:0020:00, www.jasna24.pl Slick, modern and loungey in look, Jasna 24 has a creative menu that include the use of deliciously unexpected combinations. Roll up on Wednesday’s if you prefer your dinner served with a slice of live music. $$ Jolibord 33 ul. Potocka 33, tel. 690 306 005, open Mon 12:00-22:00; Tue-Sun 10:00-22:00, www. jolibord33.pl There’s a continental climate to Jolibord 33, a place whose name refers to district’s French connection (Żoliborz comes from the French, Joli Bord – or green bank).

The menu is more democratic in choice though, with international offerings that stretch from thick Hungarian meat stew to beautiful ricotta pancakes. The causal bistro style has been a hit with the locals. $$ Kaskrut (D6) ul. Poznańska 5, tel. 22 622 5438, open Mon-Sun 12:00-15:00, 17:00-23:00, www. facebook.com/dwichlab Referred to by some as the “poor man’s Atelier Amaro”, this haunt has a high communal seating plan and a hip,

facebook.com/warsawinsider

45

RESTAURANTS

La Rotisserie (C1) ul. Kościelna 12 (Le Régina Hotel), tel.

22 531 6070, open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, 12:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 7:00-11:00,12:0023:00, www.leregina.com Truly, one of the standout dining rooms of Poland. Many have commented on the Michelin quality of chef Paweł Oszczyk’s restaurant, and you may

consider the lack of a star one of the puzzles of the modern world. The cooking is ‘classic with a twist’, and is built for superlatives: the slow-roasted rack of Welsh lamb was one of our highlights of 2013. Find Oszczyk ably supported by Andrzej Strzelczyk, Poland’s top ranked sommelier, and wonderfully BEST WAWA 2013 charismatic staff. $$$ "Chef" Magiel Café ul. Stępińska 2, tel. 22 841 0016, open Mon-Sat 12:00-last guest; Sun 10:00-18:00, www.magielcafe.pl Set with gingham tablecloths, antiques and launderette detritus, Magiel is as charming as they come.

But don’t let the café part of the name fool you – the cooking here demands attention.

Specializing in eco-minded slow food produce, the ever-rotating menu is fresh,

Insider's Pick Wilczy Głod ul. Wilcza 29A, tel. 22 891 0285, open Mon 9:30-20:00; Tue-Thu 9:30-22:00; Fri 9:30-23:00; Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 10:00-21:00.

S

ay what you like about the passage of time, but it’s done some good things to Warsaw. Take Wilcza street, for instance. In the old days – by that I mean, like, seven years ago – it was best known for its dog ‘deposits’ and brothels: I know some unfortunates who couldn’t walk five meters without stepping into either. Now though, the street has blossomed into a thriving little strip whose pre-war tenements house a number of quirky bars and snug restaurants. It’s to this backdrop Wilczy Głód has stepped into the fray.

Peering in from the outside the impression is of a café, rather than a restaurant, perhaps the result of a jaunty, impish design that makes use of cartoonish wolves on the walls and tree-like installations cobwebbed with bare light bulbs. And looking around the black and white interiors, further surprises await. Is that a fat, little mouse

46

WARSAW INSIDER | APRIL 2014

natural and packed with taste. $$ Muu Muu (D2) ul. Moliera 8, tel. 22 465 1553, open daily 12:00-last guest, www.muumuu.pl The place is sparky, fun and engaging: small in size, décor comprises of soft colors and light woods, not to mention a bar adorned with blackboard slogans such as ‘Eat Meat’ and ‘Love Bacon’. The heart of their act is meat, and steak appears in a variety of its forms: there’s T-Bone, bison, wagyu, etc. If you’re a vegetarian (or for that matter, a cow), run.

New it might be, but there’s a quiet assurance about Muu Muu: the proprietor knows he’s on a good thing, and he very well is. $$ Momu.Gastrobar (D2) ul. Wierzbowa 11, tel. 506 100 001, open Sun-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00,

behind a cushion? It most certainly is. And look, there’s a furry, grinning wolf resting on a chair. To fail to see the humor in Wilczy Głód takes a dark, joyless heart.

But if the place is playful and perky, then the cooking is both serious and sincere. While the Polish-scrawled blackboard looks like a scrabble conundrum, the typed English language menu presents a clearer picture to monoglots like me. Pairing international ideas with organic local produce from small family farmsteads, you immediately sense this is a place created out of a love and respect for food. And the suspicion is confirmed by the appearance of the starters.

For me, this means beetroot and herring soup with grapes the size of eyeballs. The herring isn’t much to my liking, but the soup itself is everthing I want: cool, crisp and vibrant. I tuck in, also, to my partners menasza – a soup which the menu assures is a dish created by the Sephardic Jews. Utilizing red lentils, curry and coriander, it’s a thick brew that produces an inner glow. We’ve been inside for 15 minutes and we’re already wearing happy pants.

Mains bring a hiccup – the turkey salad is too dry, a problem swiftly rectified by our server who arranges for more pineapple and cardamom dressing. The solution works, so much so there’s a bitter battle over the direction of the last bite. I win. Usually one to avoid greenery, I’m pleased this dish is a salad in name alone – true, there’s a generous bed of rocket, but the emphasis is clearly on the turkey.

Getting back to what’s actually in front of me, there’s crispy chicken drumsticks stuffed with buckwheat and spinach. A joy. If there’s a complaint, I’d say the ‘mild mustard sauce’ isn’t so much mild as it is completely lifeless. More zap necessary. To conclude, we share a mascarpone mousse dusted with Belgian cocoa. It’s a light, creamy finish, and a decent end to a meal that’s left us charmed. True, there have been ups and downs, but the ups have been thrilling and the downs soon forgotten. And with a bill of zł. 120 there’s a genuine agreement that this is an absolute diamond. (AW)

PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEX WEBBER

buzzy foodie crowd: fit in by taking pics of the food. The exciting menu is a temporary work that changes every two weeks – sometimes faster. The chef is known for his trial-and-error attitude: combinations that don’t work get binned before making a public debut. Those that make it through the qualifiers end up on the board. Servings are artistic, excellent and heavily influenced by French and North African cuisine. Go there. $$ BEST WAWA 2013 "Casual Design"

www.momu.pl Tapas-style portions of experimental-looking food arrives in little glass jars (meat and fish skewers, Eton mess), or else on paper plates a la the jalapeno hot dog. Pay zł. 40 for a choice of six itsy pots served in a wire-framed basket. A new concept for Warsaw, it’s been a case of so far so good for Momu. $

*

Nolita (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 292 0424, open Mon-Fri 12:00-15:30, 18:00-22:30; Sat 13:00-23:00, www.nolita.pl A swank center restaurant anchored on the skills of Jacek Grochowina – a young talent who honed his skills at the London Ritz. Looking chic and high end, advance bookings are recommended if you wish to enjoy this top-class experience.

Some of the taste and sensations are utterly unexpected, with the Insider left speechless after enjoying the tuna tartar (zł.49) and aged beef fillet (zł. 97). Privately, many have been left bewildered by the lack of Michelin star. $$$ BEST WAWA 2013 "Fine Dining"

something clearly very right with the kitchen.

The diverse international menu has too many positives to count, though the Insider recommends the pork tenderloin: served with a blue cheese and balsamic sauce, it’s a plate licking meal. The back garden is a secret summer treat, so hard luck that it’s gone for now. $$ Piękna 56 (D6) ul. Piękna 56, tel. 22 412 0656, open Mon-Thu 10:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 11:00-23:00, www.piekna56 The line between restaurants and wine bars is increasingly blurred, and here’s another

opening that greys those boundaries further.

Well considered interiors feature a tree (!), nude art and stacks of wine bottles strategically planted around this warm womb-like space. The menu is light and creative, with the biggest spend being a five star roast beef. $$ Platter by Karol Okrasa (C4) InterContinental Hotel, ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8734 or 22 328 8730, open Mon-Fri 12:00-16:00, Sat-Sun 17:30-23:00, www.platter.pl The hotel has roped in celebrity chef Karol Okrasa to head their revamped dining room. As a temple of nouveau Polish,

Norma ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, tel. 22 828 0130, open 12:00-23:00, www.restauracjanorma.pl Diners step in to find neutral, natural colors offset by Walton Ford paintings depicting wild, tethered animals, and warm lighting provided by way of bare bulbs wrapped around the rafters. But what of the menu. That’s been conceived by chef Kuba Korczak, a familiar name to slow food enthusiasts. His food is an inventive presentation of natural, local produce, and includes subtle influences from both Italy and Asia. The kaszanka is deep and rich but the biggest success is the cod with apple puree: rolling in strong, unique flavors it’s completely astonishing. $$ Nowa Kuźnia ul. Kostki Potockiego 24, tel. 794 126 019, open 12:00-last guest, www.nowakuznia. pl A mere step from Wilanów’s 18th century church, this onetime blacksmith passes muster for excellent steaks and fresh salads practically plucked from a garden. In season, the summer terrace is magical, and the place even touts a faux beach complete with diggers and slides for the kids. $$ Passe Partout (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 21, tel. 22 616 2882, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22.00, www.passepartout.pl Looking like a business class waiting lounge, it’s easy to overlook Passe Partout. But you’d be a fool to do so. Unassuming it might be, but there’s

facebook.com/warsawinsider

47

RESTAURANTS the new layout isn’t a dramatic change from the previous occupant, but the food is faultless. In particular, the herb garden salad with prawns comes immaculately groomed.

An already excellent experience has been raised to talking point level. $$$ Po Prostu Zachęta (D3) pl. Małachowskiego 3, tel. 22 556 96 77, open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-20:00, www.poprostuzacheta. pl Sophisticated yet cozy, Darek Ryniec’s restaurant is set on the lower level of the Zachęta, and despite the grand vaulted ceiling offers substantial privacy with tables nestled beside major columns. The set lunch menu emphasizes Polish, while offering a main menu that’s definitely trendy European: the dishes will be licked clean.

Qchnia Artystyczna (E6) Zamek Ujazdowski, Al. Jazdów 2, tel. 22 625 7627, open daily 12:00-22:00, www. qchnia.pl Even on a cold, ashen day, can you question a view that spills down onto a canal and park way down below? And how about when that view comes from a candle-lit reconstructed castle… Endlessly romantic, this artistic eatery comes with a light look and a creative menu honed by Marta Gessler. $$ Rozbrat 20 (F5) ul. Rozbrat 20, tel. 22 628 0295, open Mon-Fri 7:30-last guest; Sat-Sun 9:00-last guest, www.rozbrat20.pl Everything a restaurant should be – modern, but not too excessive, as well as traditional at the same

48

WARSAW INSIDER | APRIL 2014

time. Elegance emanates from everything and class glints off the silver champagne bowl and tasteful crockery. The menu is a contemporary, international affair, much like the crowd who appreciate it. $$

*

Salto (C6) ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8771, www.saltorestauracja.pl When Martin Gimenez Castro scooped top prize in the Top Chef program it simply confirmed what foodies had known for years: that this is a man of some talent. Now leading the kitchen in Salto, the highlight of Castro’s menu is undoubtedly the ‘steak weekends’. We challenge you to find better. During the week opt instead for his South American inspired dishes. Salto has the hallmarks of a success story, and under Castro’s captaincy that’s a certainty to happen. $$$ SAM (E3) ul. Lipowa 7a, tel. 600 806 084, open Mon-Fri 8:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-22:00 Bistro, bakery, hangout. The cooling concrete interiors buzz throughout the day, with touches like communal tables well suited to the ascetic style. Owned by the same lot in charge of 6/12, there’s a similar commitment to good, healthy eating employed here. $$

*

Senses (C2) ul. Bielańska 12, tel. 22 331 9697, open Mon-Fri 12:00-14:30, 17:30-22:00; Sat 17:30-22:00, sensesrestaurant.pl Chef Andrea Camastra has worked in some of

Europe’s top kitchens, not least Le Chateaubriand and Poland’s own Atelier Amaro.

Drawing on these experiences, he’s created what some are recognizing as the most exciting launch of the year. Sourcing much of their produce from their own eco-farm, this beautifully designed space has a fluid, changing menu that features such grandness as feral hog and fallow deer. We’re there next issue to bring you the full scoop… and we can’t wait. $$$ Signature (D5) ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 55 38755, open 12:00-23:00, www.signaturerestaurant.pl ‘Kilian who?’ people asked when Wojciech Kilian was installed as head chef. But this young talent has had the last laugh: set to be Poland’s next big chef, his cooking is extraordinary and presents true fine dining at bargain prices. Kilian’s cause is complimented by a beautiful design described by one reader as a ‘Monegasque state of mind’.

Think: friezes and reliefs dated from the time this was the Soviet Embassy, lavish 1950s Oswald chairs, lighting by Serge Mouille and original Marilyn photos shot by the acclaimed Milton Greene. You feel a millionaire just being here. $$ BEST WAWA 2013 "Restaurant Design"

*

Skandal (D4) ul. Sienkiewicza 4, tel. 22 350 0444, open Mon-Fri 7:30-24:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-24:00, www.skandalbistrobar.pl Skandal’s look is light and clear headed with the ground floor statement piece being a collection of cool

hanging lights all bunched together. Beautiful. There’s only six or so mains to choose from, but they’re a triumph: the sous-vide duck was a dish of real merit and worth well in excess of the zł. 39 price. So just what is the ‘Skandal’? That’ll be the service. No matter how clever the design or how good the food, we refuse to return to a place where staff make you feel so second rate and invisible – it’s the worst service we’ve seen in years. $$ Solec 44 (F4) ul. Solec 44, tel. 798 363 996, open Tue-Sun 12:00-last guest; Mon 16:00-last guest. www.solec.waw.pl With all the hipsters mincing about it sure doesn’t look like a restaurant: diners line-up at the counter to order, before sitting down in a spontaneous looking interior that clacks and clatters to the sound of grown-ups playing board games.

Chef Aleksander Baron is an absolute star, and his daily changing menu (hourly changing, even), presents soul foods made from fresh, seasonally appropriate ingredients. His eye for good meat is undisputed, making it the best alternate dining experience you’ll see for a while. $$ Sowa & Przyjaciele (G8) ul. Gagarina 2, tel. 795 505 152, open MonSat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-20:00, www. sowaiprzyjaciele.pl It really looks the part, with warm lighting, soft colors and bare bulbs hanging from overhead cables. The positive impressions are further underlined by a sommelier with a sixth sense and a barnstorming menu that catches the attention. Sowa is one

of the biggest names in Polish cooking, and you may fear he spends more time on TV than in his kitchen: with that in mind, we’re happy to report the main man emerging from the kitchen to share backslaps and bear hugs with the regulars who return. $$$ Stółdzielnia (D9) ul. Kazimierzowska 22, tel. 22 845 00 67, open daily 13:00-22:00 www.stoldzielnia.pl A complete anomaly Stółdzielnia looks more like one of those one-day pop-up restaurants: unfinished looking, with odd-shaped tables and stark colors. But keep an open mind because the food scores big points. The pizza, pasta and seafood dishes incorporate imported Italian ingredients, and come close to blowing your mind. $$ Strefa (C3) ul. Próżna 9, tel. 22 255 0850, open Mon-Fri 8:00-24:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-24:00, www. restauracjastrefa.pl Just what were they thinking ignoring the form book like that? No communal tables, no pipes and no rough-hewn bricks. Instead, there’s a swan white elegance here, with lots of pristine colors and smart, smooth-talking service. What a refreshing change. The chef favors sous-vide techniques, and his is a magic, masterful hand – his duck is flawless, and the homemade ice cream with seasonal fruits is quite a follow-up. Even the cocktails are a thing of brilliance. $$ Tamka 43 (E3) ul. Tamka 43, tel. 22 441 6234, open Mon-Sun 10:00-23:00, www.tamka.43.pl

There is an inspiration here which causes guests to linger over their meal, explore it and wonder at it. Food isn’t the background; it is the centerpiece. While Robert Trzópek has left the kitchen, he’s been ably replaced by Rafał Hreczaniuk – his menu pitches modern techniques against traditional, primarily root ingredients. It’s pretty wonderful, though the prices are ambitious. $$$ Taste Wilanów ul. Kazachska 1, tel. 22 400 1122, open daily 11:30-22:30, www.taste.pl To leave a restaurant fortified is to be expected; to leave delighted is the mark of quality. With a clever L-shaped interior, a natural terrace and a gleaming white ceramic kitchen it looks good, but it’s the food that earns the plaudits.

Dominik Moskalenko, the executive chef who cut his teeth on Amber Room has been a central part of this creation from the beginning and the fruits of his labor are mouth-watering.

Fish sit prominently on his menu and account for an astonishing 60% of sales. And rightly so: they’re phenomenal. $$ U Chłopaków (B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 115 9710, open 8:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00 Chłodna’s renaissance continues. Formerly a decrepit grocery store of the same name, Chłopaków is all exposed brick, sprigs of greenery and overhanging lamps. It’s a casual stop, but the cooking is not a throwaway – the menu is heavily slanted towards Eastern European, and has winning pierogi and wonderfully thick goulash.

Domaniewska 34A, Warszawa, +48 22 223 64 34 www.theharvest.pl

facebook.com/warsawinsider

49

RESTAURANTS Villa Foksal (E4) ul. Foksal 3/5, tel. 22 827 8716, open Mon-Fri 12:00 -22:00; Sat-Sun 13:00-23:00, www.restauracjavillafoksal.pl There’s a real elegance to Villa Foksal, an upscale restaurant whose floor plan and garden have made them a favorite for corporate bashes and brand launches. The Vichyssoise with truffles is a prelude to mains like filet mignon in red wine sauce. $$$ Winosfera (B3) ul. Chłodna 31, tel. 22 526 2500, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00, www.winosfera.pl You may think wine is the main talking point here, but actually, it’s the chef: Jakub Adamczyk, an upcoming star who studied his trade in Michelin mainstay The Square.

His menu is scintillating: ordering the beef tenderloin is a must, as is the rhubarb parfait.

You’ll be happy to pay the heavy handed prices. $$$ Wootwórnia ul. Królowej Aldony 5, tel. 603 696 259, open 10:00-22:00, www.wootwornia.pl. Accessed round a back garden, Wootwórnia feels like a private little secret – you get the sensation not of visiting a restaurant, but of visiting a friend. The dominant element is the counter, from which co-owner Agnes Woo showcases her homemade preserves and own-baked cakes. Sourcing ingredients from small-scale local farms, here is a menu designed to nourish the soul. And it does just that. The tomato soup, enriched with hint of orange, aniseed and cinnamon isn’t soup of the day,

it’s our soup of the year. Genuine ‘food from the heart’. $$

ITALIAN Ave Pizza (E3) ul. Topiel 12, tel. 22 828 8507, open 12:0022:00 A dark and dimmed space – fashionably sparse – with white wall tiles and eclectic wallpaper climbing to the exposed pipes above. The menu is a simple laminated affair with eleven ‘pizza rosse’ and eight ‘pizza biance’, as well as a scattering of other Italian dishes. Cooked up by Lino and Fabio, the result is Warsaw’s most extraordinary pizzas: yep, the place is even endorsed by the city’s notoriously picky Italian community. $ Bacio (D5) ul. Wilcza 43, tel. 22 626 83 03, open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00, www.bacio.pl New look Bacio has been de-cluttered and simplified and now features a stripped down look and a menu that peaks with the duck in red wine risotto. Portions are huge, and are matched by a quality that’s seen this once ailing giant reinstalled as one of the top Italian eats in town. $$ Carpaccio (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel. 22 692 4726, open daily 12:00-last guest The Italian influence looms heavy here: the Italian owner patrols the restaurant floor, while Carmelo, a Sicilian,

ensures nothing but excellence exits the wood-fired pizza oven. The quality of the hams is undisputed, as a try of the Parma ham bruschetta immediately proves. $$

*

Delizia (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 22 622 6665, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00, www.delizia.com.pl The reasons for Delizia’s success are twofold: Luca and Lorenzo. Luca’s the front man, a charismatic chap and natural showman. In his hands, you’ll feel like a star. Then there’s Lorenzo, the chef out the back. Between the pair of them they’ve turned this tiny little venue into Warsaw’s most convincing Italian enterprise. Top quality imported products, a dimly-lit romantic atmosphere, tasteful interiors and brilliant food: what more do you need? How about a recommendation from Michelin… $$ Enoteka ul. Długa 23/25, tel. 22 635 5510, open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-21:00, www.enotekapolska.pl The menu is updated quarterly and beefed up with the harvests of the season. The house specialises chiefly in Italian labels whose price tags range from “what a deal!” to “worth it for a celebrity splurge.” The minimalsitic rustic interior is just the right spot after a stroll in the neighboring Old Town. $$ Kotłownia ul. Suzina 8, tel. 22 833 23 27, open daily 13:00-last guest (kitchen to 23:00), www. winiarnia-kotlownia.pl You’d never guess

Only in Poland!

Fresh fruit bouquets are truly a great gift for all occasions in Warsaw!

Give a fruit bouquet to everybody!

Give health and a smile!

Order now: tel. (48) 22 100 4799 www.fruitlife.pl Our store: Warsaw, al. KEN 90 (metro Stokłosy)

50

WARSAW INSIDER | APRIL 2014

from the grey surrounds but Kotłownia is one of the emerging stars of Warsaw dining.

Set in a historic disused boiler house (the Warsaw Uprising started right outside!) a generous helping of wooden touches warm the split level industrial interiors, but it’s the food that steals the show. The modern Italian menu reflects the owner’s passion for Italy, as does the handpicked wine list. The convivial atmosphere makes it perfect for a long, lazy lunch. $$

Nonsolo Pizza ul. Grójecka 28/30, tel. 22 824 1273, open Mon-Sun 12:00-23:00, www.nonsolo.pl Basic but modern looking: can be described as ‘cutprice cosmopolitan’. The kitchen takes Stage Center, and a stage it is – amateur theatrics are sometimes part of the bill. A staggering choice of pizzas await (we counted 48, but might have got it wrong), and while they’re pretty decent it’s a while since Nonsolo was talked about as being Warsaw’s best pie. $

La Bufala (B4) ul. Sienna 86, tel. 22 654 3277, open daily 11:00-23:00 On the right day you’ll find the ex-pat proprietors of Warsaw’s more refined Italian eateries using this for their pizza fix. It might not look like much, but its reputation speaks for itself. $

Parmizzano’s (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel, Floor 1), tel. 22 630 6306, open 12:00-23:00 The prices are highly intimidating, but are offset by cooking that never falls below brilliant.

Hotel restaurants get a bad rep, but in the formal surrounds of Parmiazzano’s diners can expect Italian food at its very best. $$$

La Tomatina (D5) ul. Krucza 47A, tel. 22 625 1047, open Sun-Thu 10:30-23:00; Fri-Sat 10:30-24:00; Sun 11:00-23:00, www.latomatina.pl Calamitous, slapstick service and accusations pointing to the overuse of readymade ingredients shouldn’t detract from good pizzas served in modern interiors of stark white walls and concrete floors. Our spicy tiger prawn spaghetti was also okay, even if the presentation looked like a student had cooked it. $ Mąka i Woda (D4) ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 91 87, open Mon-Thu 12:00-22:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-20:00 When Michelin starred chef Wojciech Amaro pops in with his family you know something is going right.

Here the statement piece is a Stefano Ferrara Napoli oven, used to maximum effect to create pizzas which have come to be considered amongst Warsaw’s best. Import ingredients like Parmigiano Reggiano cheese and Caputo flour add to the authenticity, and there’s a medley of other ‘staples from Naples’. $ Mamma Marietta (C9) ul. Wołoska 74A, tel. 22 880 0071, open 12:00-22:00, www.mammamarietta.com A scattering of tables make reservations recommended in Mamma Marietta, an informal looking restaurant with lugubrious interiors and solemn service. But the food, created by head chef Andrea, has an authenticity that’s rare in a city whose enthusiasm for Italian food isn’t always reflected by quality. The tomato soup starter, is deliciously thick and almost worth the trip itself. $$

Ristorante San Lorenzo (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 36, tel. 22 652 1616, open 12:00-last guest, www.sanlorenzo.pl Adorned with crisp, starched linen and Roman frescos this space is almost magisterial in design.

The Tuscan menu is flawless and well worth the rather hefty bill. The wine bar on the ground floor features the same standards at a snip of the price. It’s in here you’ll find Italian natives cheering the Serie A football. $$$

‘Simplicity, elegance and atmosphere’

Cafe • Wine Bar • Restaurant • Whisky Bar • Wine Cellar ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 515 037 001 hoza@mondovino.pl Open 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-21:00

Superiore (D6) ul. Piękna 28/34, tel. 506 404 059, open Mon-Fri 8:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-24:00, www.superiorewinebar.pl A hybrid wine shop, deli and restaurant, with an owner who prefers to think about the enjoyment of your dining experience rather than his cash till. The veal pasta is the bestselling dish here for very good reason. $$ The Olive (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6706, open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, Sat & Sun 6:30-11:00 Bursting with seasonal fruits and veggies, it’s a fresh, fun place to eat. Hot and cold buffet for zł. 90. $$$

*

Trattoria da Antonio (D5) ul. Żurawia 16/20, tel. 22 625 5417, open 11:00-1:00, www.trattoriadaantonio.pl At times you suspect you’ve walked into the 90s, what with the tacky embellishments that appear at each turn – a Vespa, some stone lions, a water well. But this is no bad thing: at a time when restaurants are doing their best to look stripped down and functional, cheerful Antonio feels jaunty and fun. And the food,

facebook.com/warsawinsider

51

RESTAURANTS created by Sicilian-born Antonio Centurrino, has several redeeming qualities: the penne arrabiata is delicious in its simplicity, though for a piece of heaven try the gnocchi tartufati.

No less than a warm trattoria whose specialty is good, simple food. $$

Ou Sushi ul. Domaniewska 17/19, tel. 22 847 16 63, open 12:00-21:00, www.ousushi.pl There can never be enough sushi in Warsaw, not least when it’s this good. The temaki rolls are outstanding. $$

Trattoria Rucola na Miodowej ul. Miodowa 1, tel. 888 575 457 & ul.

Francuska 6, tel. 22 616 1259, open daily 12:00-22:00 & ul. Krucza 6/14, tel. 22 465 1836, open Mon-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00, www.trattoriarucola.pl Firmly established in Saska, Ruccola have expanded to cover the West side to cover Old Town and the center. The M.O is replicated in all venues, with huge wall prints of verdant forest scenes, and a menu that impresses across the board – the pizza in particular gets our seal of approval. $

Ryż i Ryba (D6) ul. Piękna 20, tel. 22 627 4150, open Mon-Fri 11:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-22:00, www. ryziryba.pl The art of sushi is given a new lease of life in this Piękna newbie. The flavors are a revelation, making it more than just a stop-off for passing office workers. $$

Vapiano Al. Jerozolimskie 63 (Lipinski Passage), tel.

22 356 10 50, open Mon-Thu 9:00-23:00, Fri 9:00-1:00; Sat 11:00-1:00, Sun 11:00-22:00 & ul. Taśmowa 7 (Marynarska Business Park) & ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów) www. vapiano.de/pl Here’s one chain brand that is worth the hype. Featuring a chic look rounded out with Ferrari red colors, the thin crust pizza earns its spurs, and the pasta combinations are great. $$ Venti-tre (E8) ul. Belwederska 23 (Hyatt Hotel), tel. 22 558 1094, open 6:30-23:00 The high class confines of the Hyatt are the home of Venti Tre, a contemporary restaurant with an open kitchen, and a Mediterranean inspired menu constructed using carefully sourced ingredients from local suppliers. The results are befitting of one of Warsaw’s top hotels. $$$

JAPANESE & SUSHI Izumi Sushi ul. Mokotowska 17 (pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 22 825 7950, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00 & ul.

Biały Kamień 4, tel. 22 424 0055, open MonThu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.izumisushi.eu The original location never ceases to amaze with its sushi, though it’s the addition on Biały Kamień that really gets people talking. Here it’s not just the food that wows, but the interiors: a huge venue whose open plan doubles as an indoor forest – you need to see it to believe it. $$

54

WARSAW INSIDER | APRIL 2014

Sakana Sushi Bar ul. Burakowska 5/7 tel. 22 636 0505, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00, Sun 13:00-22:00 & ul. Moliera 4/6, tel. 22 826 5958, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-1:00; Sun 13:00-22:00 & ul. Wąwozowa 6, lok.10B, tel. 22 498 8899, Mon-Sat 12:00-22:30, Sun 13:00-22:00, www.sakana.pl If there was one winner in the sushi wars of the noughties, it was Sakana. Many claim it’s the best in the city, a stand that’s hard to dispute.

Practice nimble chopstick moves among other aficionados while sushi rolls sail by on tiny, little boats. $$ Sushi Club (B1) ul. Stawki 3, tel. 22 114 1414, open Mon-Thu 11:00-22:00; Fri 11:00-23:00; Sat 12:0023:00, Sun 12:00-22:00, www.sushi-club. pl A couple of dining rooms to choose from, including one found in a restorative salt cave.

The lack of English on the menu may leave you bamboo-zled, but the overall quality is rewarding. We return for the salmon nigri and tuna hosomaki. $$ Sushi Marina-Mokotów ul. Warowna 1, tel. 22 493 0302, open daily 12:00-22:00, www.sushimarina.pl Since its heyday in the 00s sushi has been in decline in Warsaw – well, no-one told Marina-Mokotów, and it’s a good job as well.

Completely creative in its offer, this isn’t just another Wa-wa sushi joint. Elaborate rolls are built with forensic precision using the freshest of ingredients. In a place like this, it’s easy to fall in love with sushi all over again. $$ Sushi Zushi (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 420 3373, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-03:00; Sun 13:00-22:00, www.sushizushi.pl The mania for sushi is in recess, and that’s a good thing – the rogue operators are dead or dying off, and are survived by the best. And

make no mistake, Sushi Zushi continue to be the No. 1 ex-pat choice. Appreciated by a stunning crowd, the rolls are often bold and creative and always astonishingly fresh. $$ Tekeda Sushi & Wok (D1) ul. Freta 18, tel. 600 351 818 & ul.

Meissnera 1/3, tel. 606 236 050, open daily 12:00-22:00, www.sushitekeda.pl In an area plagued by tourist rip-offs, Tekeda get it right with a good balance of sushi and wok dishes.

The grilled maki is particularly pleasing. $$ Tomo (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2344, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.tomo.pl Excellent.

While Warsaw’s other sushi stops gather cobwebs Tomo packs out each night – that should say enough. With the maki, sushi and sashimi bobbing past on wooden platters, this place aims for fast, maximum turnover without ever making the diner feel second best. $$

JEWISH

*

Galil (C3) ul. Zielna 36, tel. 731 492 634, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Sun 14:00-23:00, www.galil-restaurant.pl There’s been a few Jewish restaurants opened in the last couple of years, and they’ve all quickly folded.

Already though, there’s the impression Galil might last the distance, a point underlined by the rather good food. We started with a zesty tabouleh before moving on to grilled chicken breast with dates and a syrup glaze. Set inside a rambling, tiled interior, this labyrinthine space already looks like its snaring big-spending groups. Kosher certified, as well. $$ Pod Samsonem (C1) ul. Freta 3/5, tel. 22 831 1788, open 10:0023:00, www.podsamsonem.pl Operating since the 1950s – crazy when you think about it. This is the place for an ordinary meal in an ordinary space. The menu mixes aspects of Polish and Jewish cooking, and fails to do a good job of either. Entertainment is provided by the staff: find them engaged in something akin to war with the people they serve. $

LATIN & MEXICAN

*

Aioli (D3) ul. Świętokrzyska 18, tel. 22 290 102, open

RESTAURANTS Sun-Thu 9:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 9:00-24:00, www.aioli-cantine.com This runaway hit has taken Warsaw by storm. It’s a jaunty space with hams hanging from hooks and long communal tables that thrive with life.

Aioli’s breakfasts, sandwiches, pastas and pizzas are a lesson in clean, simple pleasure: nothing out of the world, just consistently good. This and the liberal prices mean there’s no shortage of people passing in and out the doors. $$

*

Blue Cactus (E8) ul. Zajączkowska 11, tel. 22 851 2323, open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 9:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, www.bluecactus.pl It’s been around for so long that people had started referring to the Cactus in the past tense. Enter executive chef Patrick Hanna, a man who has revitalized and revived the place in a way no-one could have imagined.

Combining the barbecuing techniques of the southern states with the humble but potent

56

WARSAW INSIDER | APRIL 2014

tastes of Mexico, Hanna has reawakened this sleeping giant. Committed to local produce and fresh flavors, his finest moment has been hoiking over a wood-fired grill all the way from Nashville – the steaks will stop you in your tracks. Say it loudly: the Blue Cactus is back! $$

Casa Pablo (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5A, tel. 22 324 5781, open Mon-Sat 12:00-last guest, www.casapablo. pl While increasingly well represented in the capital, Spanish food has been pointed in a new direction by Casa Pablo. Breaking away from hackneyed clichés, the eclectic interior (tartan colors, crates, a century old mirror) is reflective of a menu that places equal importance on flair, quality and elements of fine dining. Based on the ‘creative Spanish’ movement, find the likes of pork ribs in hoi sin and honey sauce introduced, not to mention cod cooked at 45 C and served with pigs trotters. You’ll be amazed. $$

Dos Tacos (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, tel. 22 243 4618, open 11:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00, www.dostacos.pl Found high up in the increasingly naff-looking Millennium Plaza, Dos Tacos is adorned with Aztec murals and cartoonish finishes. A growing number of Americans can be found making their way to Floor 5 of the Millennium, and that’s to sample an exciting range of salsas and a solid menu of Mexican staples. $ La Fiesta Tequila Bar (E4) ul. Foksal 21, tel. 22 829 8560, open 12:00-3:00, www.lafiesta.pl What was once a pretty diabolical Mexican joint has, apparently, experienced a dramatic volte face. The sombreros and crap have been replaced by a psychedelic, Day of the Dead-style featuring skeletal Mariachi men, not to mention no shortage of tequila bottles. But the real gossip is reserved for the kitchen: gone are the fraudsters who used to work here, and in their place is Jorge Martinez – no guessing where he’s from. Is his menu up to scratch?

Absolutely no idea. We left after having a

run-in with the worst service experienced since the Cold War ended. $ Ole Tapas (E5) ul. Bracka 2, tel. 519 875 767, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www. ole-restaurant.pl A dual level wine bar and restaurant with a modern spirit and a Flamenco vibe. Don’t let the name fool you: while the tapas are good, it’s the steak most people come for. Choice here includes aged Spanish beef and Kobe cow. $$ Secado (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 66, tel. 608 707 799, open Mon-Fri 10:00-23:00; Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-23:00 Dogged by failed ventures, this prime location has been gagging for a success story – and it’s got one. The food is good, which has to count for something: from light bites like tortillas, to pots of fresh mussels, everything we’ve tried in this Hispanic-themed spot has been culinary gold.

Hanging hocks of ham come scattered around casual, intimate interiors, and further brownie points are gained for a smoking room that doesn’t choke you as well as hilarious toilets (lads, see if you measure up…). $$ Spoco Loco ul. Sarmacka 10, tel. 887 447 447, open 11:00-21:00, www.spocoloco.pl It begins with a bead of sweat. Then a couple of tears. Then the real pain begins and doesn’t retreat until you’ve rolled on the floor and died for twenty minutes. Spoco Loco’s No. 7 sauce is no laughing matter, and should be treated with respect. But this causal eatery is not founded on gimmicks. The burritos and quesadillas are the real deal, and ably supported by a choice of milder sauces that don’t require Red Cross treatment.

The Mexican ul. Podwale 29, tel. 22 635 3232, open Sun-Thu 11:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00 & Zgoda 6, tel. 22 826 0009, open Sun-Thu 11:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-2:00, www. mexican.pl Everything Mexican food shouldn’t be. There’s zero zing, and no matter what you order anticipate mysterious gloop with lots of mashed cabbage. It’s all such a shame, because with its burbling fountain and courtyard location The Mexican looks like it could be the real deal. Find their latest imposter hawking for custom on Zgoda 6 $$ Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46 (entrance from ul. Poznańska), tel. 22 621 8622, open 12:00-last guest,

www.warsawtortillafactory.pl Howling hot salsas and freshly made tortillas give WTF a head start on other restaurants, but there are other strings to their poncho: the menu has been slimmed and continues to be tinkered with, while the introduction of zł. 19 lunches – served on Alcatraz trays – present one of the best deals in town. We’ve enjoyed the burritos here for years, and score them as the best in town. $$

The new place on the map of Warsaw The new place on the map of Warsaw

MIDDLE EASTERN Le Cedre (E1) Al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166, open daily 11:00-23:00, www.lecedre.pl With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops. A recent update has developed the interiors a little further, with the back bit indulgently retouched to appear as a deep, dark alcove full of eastern mystique. $$ Le Cedre 84 (B3) Al. Solidarności 84, tel. 22 618 8999, open 11:00-23:00, www.lecedre.pl Le Cedre just keep on getting it right. Authenticity is key in this chainlette (well, there’s another across the river), as you’ll discover when talking to Tony, the Lebanese owner. To see the diversity of this cuisine, order the balbaak (six cold starters) or the byblos (six hot). And food aside, it’s the atmosphere that carries them that extra yard: the whole philosophy of this cuisine is to share and share alike, making it a uniquely engaging experience when dining with friends. $$ Sokotra (D5) ul. Wilcza 27, tel. 22 270 2766, open Mon-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.sokotra.pl A Yemeni restaurant with a brief menu full of recognizable Eastern dishes like hummus and grilled halloumi. And one of the big boons is the discovery that Indian influences also fall under the compass of Yemeni cuisine – the madras leaves you puffing smoke rings.

Find all that in a casual interior composed of chattery locals and mysterious concrete additions – e.g. a telegraph pole squeezed amid the tables. $$

Bistro Piękna ul. Piękna 20 00-549 Warszawa Tel. +48 22 627 41 51 piekna@jazzone.pl www.jazzone.pl

Bistro Piękna ul. Piękna 20 00-549 Warszawa Tel. +48 22 627 41 51 piekna@jazzone.pl, www.jazzone.pl

facebook.com/warsawinsider

57

RESTAURANTS POLISH Akademia Smaku ul. Oboźna 9, tel. 22 828 9901, open 12:00-24:00, www.akademia-smaku.com.pl Something of a side street surprise, Akademia connect contemporary, neutral interiors with a menu that’s best described as modern/ international. That might sound vague and anonymous, but the results are anything but.

Beautiful presentation and simple, seasonal ingredients combine to make Akademia a high-scoring venue. $$ Ale Gloria (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7080, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.alegloria.pl Who said romance was dead? Here wedding white colors are fused with a strawberry motif inside this gourmet fave. Keeping patrons returning are aromatic dishes with a contemporary twist – try the duck in rose sauce. $$$ Amber Room at the Sobański Palace (E6) Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat 12:00-22:30; Sun 12:00-20:00, www.amberroom.pl The Amber Room is, indeed, a bit of a treasure.

Chef Robert Skubisz has excelled himself in creating a menu that injects upmarket Polish dishes with contemporary flair. Set inside a majestic mansion, the recommendation they’ve received from Michelin is justly deserved. $$$ Atelier Amaro (E6) ul. Agrykola 1, tel. 22 628 5747, open Mon-Sat 12:00-14:30; 18:00-22:30, www. aterlieramaro.pl The recipient of Poland’s first Michelin star, Atelier has no rival – this is the best restaurant in the country, bar none. Find a tasting menu of slow food enhanced by modern techniques, with courses interspersed by occasionally bizarre interludes (leaves, flowers, twigs, etc.). Don’t miss the bespoke vodka menu, either. It’s an extraordinary dining experience, and one which confirms the growing cult of chef Wojciech Amaro. In the hours you’re here, the world stops and you leave feeling like James Bond. Reservations are mandatory, with a waiting list that is approximately two to three months long. $$$ BEST WAWA 2013 "Outstanding Achievement" Bazyliszek (D1) Rynek Starego Miasto 1/3, tel. 22 831 1841, open daily 12:00-24:00, www.bazyliszek. waw.pl Some parts of Bazyliszek hark to

58

WARSAW INSIDER | APRIL 2014

its years as a stately, stuffy restaurant.

Now though it’s more earthy, with Jurassic portions of meaty, lardy food best consumed with one liter beers. The Rynek location and festive atmosphere account for its popularity more than anything that comes from the kitchen. $ Biała Gęś (F8) ul. Belwederska 18A, tel. 22 840 5060, open 12:00-last guest (kitchen to 23:00); Sun 12:00-22:00, www.bialages.pl For that elegant touch of Zhivago-era class, it’s got to be Biała Gęś. Interiors conjure images of a countryside manor; you imagine rolling up here after a day shooting foxes. Yet it’s not those blighters on the menu, but geese.

That’s the house specialty, and you’d do well to find better. A whole bird for four is yours for zł. 490. $$$ Bistro Warszawa (D1) ul. Jezuicka 1/3, tel. 22 635 3769, open daily 12:00-24:00, www. bistrowarszawa.pl The menu cites pre-war recipe books as its influence, and on it you’ll find such dishes as goose in thyme sauce with pear and zucchini. The interiors are strictly contemporary though, with vanilla colored furnishings, wine racks and walls papered with hundreds of theater scripts and book pages. Regular jazz performances draw people city-wide. $$ Chłopskie Jadło (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1717, open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00 A nationwide chain enterprise designed to mimic a peasant inn, what with all the clunky pots and rustic supplements. And if it’s farmers fare you’re after then the food isn’t bad either, with thick, lumpy servings of countryside classics and soup presented in bread. Twenty-something Poles cringe at such a representation of their country, but there’s no denying it: it’s an accurate caricature of a mountain-slope karczma. $ Dawne Smaki (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 49, tel. 22 465 83 20, open Sun-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-1:00, www.dawnesmaki.pl At last, a proper restaurant on Nowy Świat! The interiors hark to the past, while the back garden promises an oasis-like experience: if you’re new to Warsaw, it’s actually worth hanging around till summer just to see it. Chef Michał Bajerski, formerly of Regina Hotel, wraps it up nicely with a fantastic menu that modernizes

traditional Polish recipes. Recommended: deer steak. $$ Delicja Polska (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 45, tel. 22 826 4770, open daily 12:00-last guest, www. delicjapolska.pl It’s one of those few places where the food is fabulous, service efficient and discreet and the interior reminiscent of a fairytale dining room. $$ Dom Polski (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 2432, open daily 12:00-last guest, www.restauracjadompolski.pl Built for moments when nothing but the best will do. Prices are premium, but this piece of high society features an aristocratic temperament and fine Polish cuisine served with an elegant flourish. $$$ Folk Gospoda (B3) ul. Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605, open daily 12:00-midnight, www.folkgospoda.pl To quote an unknown source, traditional Polish food is a celebration of ‘heritage, culture, singing and vodka.’ But snooty Warsaw doesn’t do traditional, at least not in the same way tourist havens like Kraków do. So it’s a joy to find Folk Gospoda. Good humored and filled with gnarled furniture and mountain songs, it’s a place where warm memories are made. Mains are a manly affair (solid, meaty and generous in size) and arrive courtesy of waiters dressed as Zakopane tinkers. $$

*

Inn Under the Red Hog (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 22 850 3144, open daily 12:00-24:00 (kitchen to 23:00), www.czerwonywieprz.pl Now everyone is rich and happy, it’s easy to forget communism was a pretty dire experiment. Which explains the playful nature of this commie themed restaurant. Dining is done under red banners and paintings of nasty political activists, while the menu is a humorous affair divided between dishes for the dignitary and proletariat – all details that saw it names as one of the Top 25 Unique Restaurants in the World. Another vodka, comrade, and the First Secretary’s pork loins while you’re there! $$ Kafe Zielony Niedwiedz (E4) ul. Smolna 4, tel. 731 996 006, open 8:00-23:00. The Smolna address is a bit misleading – in reality, you’ll be traipsing down into the park under the ‘hammer head’ tower before reaching Zbyszek Kmieć’s restaurant. But you’ll be glad you did. The menu has hints of Atelier Amaro in its fiendish attention to natural Polish produce: the cream

BROUGHT TO YOU BY PIERROGERIA

OH, OH, PIEROGI

Considered as something of a national dish, the humble dumpling gets a modern makeover in Pierrogeria.

B

usy throughout the day, Pierrogeria has a warm bustle and a comforting clatter: a babble of tongues and accents infuse the air, all to the reassuring sound of kitchen commotion. There’s an honesty and hospitality that’s immediately apparent and it’s an atmosphere that lingers long into the night.

But beyond the good humor that hangs in the ambiance, Pierrogeria is noted for its pierogi. Hand-cut in an open kitchen, there’s an emphasis on nature: everything is homemade using natural ingredients and the freshest produce. The dumplings come in a number of varieties, both boiled or baked or even roasted with cheese sauce. The fillings are equally diverse – of course, traditional pierogi are well represented, with fillings such as cabbage and mushroom, or cottage cheese and onion.

Pierrogeria’s greatest achievement is in elevating such standard, staple menu items to a class of their own. Good luck finding better elsewhere. And with Easter just around the corner, look out for their special festive pierogi and dishes made especially for reservations and organized parties. As central Warsaw grinds past, it’s hard not to congratulate yourself on this very fine find – that it’s all so affordable adds to the sensation of a very good deal.

Pierrogeria Pl. Konstytucji 2/ Aleja KEN 60, open Mon-Fri 11:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-23:00, www.pierrogeria.eu

REDEEM THIS VOUCHER FOR PORTION OF FREE PIEROGI

facebook.com/warsawinsider

59

RESTAURANTS of beetroot soup is peerless, and the boar ragout gains similar approval. This is a happy marriage where traditions are turned on their head using creative techniques and precise presentation. At the same time, be warned the scene here might not appeal: it’s very stars in your eyes as Polish celebs – both major and minor – swan about while their acolytes simper. $$ Kluska Polska (D4) ul. Szpitalna 4, tel. 602 550 786, open MonThu 12:00-21:00; Fri-Sun 12:00-22:00, www. kluskapolska.pl The crazy black and white design has you thinking you’ve stepped into a cartoon cutout, so don’t take any funny little pills before you enter. The menu is simple and traditional, with hefty dumplings the dominant entity. Cheap and cheerful, all the signs suggest a success story in the making. $ Kuchnia Funkcjonalna (G3) ul. Jakubowska 16 (enter from ul. Estońska), tel. 512 893 898, open Mon-Thu 11:0023:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-23:00 Snuck inside one of Saska’s definitive modernist buildings,

the opening of Kuchnia has made slow food accessible to all wallets. Venison from the Bieszczady Mountains, dairy products from Jersey cattle milk, and the use of goose fat instead of butter are just a few noteworthy characteristics; the frequently changing menu reflects the commitment to nature. The ascetic design is softened by a cast-iron stove and moody lighting, giving the restaurant a warm, seasonal glow. $$ Pierrogeria (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 2, tel. 22 743 7644, open 11:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-23:00, www.pierrogeria.eu Pierogi: the pride of the Polish pantry… Pervasive in their presence, no other dish features so heavily on local menus. Even so, the search for perfect pierogi can lead only to one door: and you’ll find that particular portal on pl. Konstytucji.

Through their use of unconventional fillings and natural ingredients, Pierrogeria elevate a standard, staple food into a class of its own. $ Podwale Piwna Kompania (D2) ul. Podwale 25, tel. 22 635 6314, open

Mon-Sat 11:00-01:00; Sun 12:00-24:00, www.podwale25.pl Podwale has a beer hall atmosphere that’s further exaggerated when mountain bands circulate. Food is of average standard and served in portions that are obscene – finishing the wooden platters can be seriously traumatic. Go there for the experience, if nothing else. $ Prasowy (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16, open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-19:00 Delicate diners turn their back on milk bars, yet this canteen-style phenomenon, with its history rooted in communism, has enjoyed a remarkable renaissance and a freshly found popularity with a new generation. Sure, the food is an acquired taste and best described using words like ‘basic’ and ‘honest’, but Prasowy gets our vote for a cool design that’s seen the 1954 interiors sensitively updated. $ Restauracja Polska “Różana” (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 22 848 1225, open 12:00-last guest, www.restauracjarozana. com.pl Touting a refined, baronial setting,

TRADITIONAL POLISH CUISINE AND FOOD Souvenirs from Poland: Delicious cold meats, cheeses and preserves and the best Polish mead, traditional Polish aged fruit liquor and vodkas well as jewelry made of striped flint and amber joined with bog oak.

44 Nowy Swiat Street, Warsaw +48 662 254 215 restauracja@specjalyregionalne.pl, www.specjalyregionalne.pl

60

WARSAW INSIDER | APRIL 2014

facebook.com/warsawinsider

61

RESTAURANTS Rożana has starchy white linen, floral pieces and flickering candles, giving off plenty of classic charm in the best possible taste. With indulgent mains such as farmhouse duck with apple and cranberry, or saddle of venison with homemade pickle, this is a Polish dining extravaganza served from the top table.

U Fukiera (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 27 (Old Town Market Square), tel. 22 831 1013, open 12:00-last guest, www.ufukiera.pl New arrivals looking to get a grasp of local cuisine have many options in varying price brackets. U Fukiera is definitely in the big spend category, but visitors come away with a common sense of wonderment. That’s largely due to enchanting interiors that have guests exploring twinkling chambers that unravel like a fairytale. Set in a 500 year old townhouse, the beautiful backdrop is paired by a grand menu of duck, venison, veal and lamb. $$$ U Szwejka (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1710, open Mon-Fri 8:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun

62

WARSAW INSIDER | APRIL 2014

12:00-24:00, www.uszwejka.pl Named after fictional Czech soldier Szwejk, the food here would certainly appeal to the tubby man himself. Bestowed with Prague street signs, the food is a hardy, meaty affair, and arrives in XXXL portions. The price to quantity (Note: not quality) ratio guarantees queues (yes, queues) that stretch out on the street every weekend. $$

Zapiecek Locations inc. ul. Nowy Świat 64, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska 13, tel. 22 635 61 09, open 11:00-23:00 & ul. Wańkowicza 1, open 11:00-22:00, CH Arkadia, open 10:00-22:00, www.zapiecek.eu Seven Warsaw locales, with our favorite found in the vaulted passages of Świętojańska. The menu is highly traditional, with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’.

It’s for the pierogi though for which they’re

famous; find approx. fifty types delivered by servers dressed like saucy country maids. $

SCANDINAVIAN Nabo ul. Zakręt 8, tel. 22 842 0256, open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:30; Sat-Sun 9:00-21:30, www. nabocafe.pl The décor is, we’re told, typical Danish cafe – bold open windows, simple lines, high shelves filled with books and games on the table. But what is Danish food?

There’s Old Danish on the menu: meatballs and open face sandwiches with meat and fish in various textural configurations and then there’s New Danish: an emerging trend towards fresh, seasonal food (no microwave oven at Nabo), with locally sourced and innovatively concocted ingredients. $$

SPECIALTY FOOD SHOPS African Shop ul. Andersa 27, tel. 507 247 292, open

Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00, www.afroeuro.eu Beans, beverages, flour and soup thickeners.

Hair products and cosmetics also available, and they promise to be bringing in Abyssinian coffee in the near future as well. ‘’Excellent,’’ gushes one Zimbabwean connection.

Befsztyk ul. Puławska 176/178, tel. 22 843 6110, www.befsztyk.pl The Prokopowicz family has come a long way since launching Befsztyk in 1994. Top restaurants, celebs and ex-pats are listed as clients, and all agree that this operation is indisputably ‘top of the chops’.

Find steaks seasoned for three weeks, glutenfree smoked meats, Merino lamb, BBQ kits and so much more. Home delivery, internet ordering and English-speaking staff round out this legend.

Bio Bazar ul. Żelazna 51/53, tel. 22 318 8855, open Sat 8:00-16:00, www.biobazar.org.pl Fruit and veg in the first warehouse, some of it imported from as far as Argentina. In the second warehouse, find organic cheese

varieties from sheep and goats, as well as import brands from Italy, France and the Netherlands.

Peruse the Italian hams and cheeses in their fridge, olive oils, sauces and of course wine.

Lots and lots of wine.

British Shop ul. Emilii Plater 8, tel. 692 240 804, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00 British food and beverages inc. cider, bacon, sausages, gluten free ready meals, confectionary etc.

Run by the same team who once operated Fish & Chips on Koszykowa, the offer has now expanded to cover non-food items like Royal Wedding souvenirs, England football paraphernalia etc.

Krakowski Kredens Various locations across town, check their website for details: www.krakowskikredens. pl Jams, syrups, honey and preserves, as well as hams and kiełbasa from the Galicia region.

Food & Joy ul. Nowy Świat 7, open Mon-Sat 9:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-17:00, www.foodandjoy.eu An upmarket deli chain from the same team behind Krakowski Kredens and Alma.

Heritage ul. Mokotowska 17, tel. 22 857 0912, open Mon-Sat 8:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-20:00 Some people use Heritage as a wine bar, while others see it as more than that. And so it is.

Kuchnie Świata Various locations, www.kuchnieswiata.com. pl The first stop for most ex-pats, with an offer that includes food and drinks from across the globe. The choice is vast. Internet ordering now also available.

La Fromagerie ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 465 2324, open Mon-Wed 9:00-20:00; Thu-Fri 9:00-21:00; Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 11:30-17:00, www. lafromagerie.pl Top quality cheeses produced by small, artisan producers from England, the major regions of France as well as several other countries. Also, gourmet specialities like Italian parma ham, Spanish chorizo,

facebook.com/warsawinsider

63

RESTAURANTS French sausages, and hard-to-find luxury brands from France, Italy, Greece and more.

La Petite France ul. Zwycięzców 28, tel. 22 672 9646, open Mon-Sat 10:30-18:30, www.lapetitefrance. pl Wine and cheese as well as canned and tinned foods from France.

Le Targ ul. Mińska 25 (SOHO Factory), tel. 603 051 116, open Sat 10:00-15:00 Find here a rather random array of products: stands display traditional meats, goat’s cheeses, unconventional preserves, Greek products, vegan ingredients… it all still seems a bit like a work in progress. The initiative is noble, however.

Maho al. Krakowska 240/242, tel. 22 609 1548, open daily 11:00-23:00, www.maho.com.pl An excellent German-run Turkish restaurant that also doubles as a butcher: halal certified beef, veal, lamb and poultry.

Marks & Spencer Various locations inc. DT Wars & Sawa, ul.

Marszałkowska 104/122, tel. 22 551 7553, open Mon-Sat 9:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00, www.marks-and-spencer.com.pl Visit the Marszałkowska location to take advantage of the on-site bakery, but visit early as choice diminishes the later it gets. Aside from baked goods, find an excellent frozen food section, as well as an off-license, tinned goods, ready meals, confectionary and preserves.

Martin’s Good Meat ul. Przejazd 4/7, tel. 797 866 131, open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00 Angus, Hereford and Limousine beef, not to mention lamb, veal and seasoned steaks. A candidate for Warsaw’s best butchery, no less!

Namaste India ul. Nowogrodzka 15, tel. 22 357 0939, open Mon-Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-23:00, www.namasteindia.pl Not just an excellent take-away, but also a small deli selling herbs and spices, ready meals, drinks and even Indian toiletries.

Ostra Kuchnia www.ostrakuchnia.pl A superb internet shop retailing quite literally the hottest sauces known to man: brands include Blair’s, Dave’s, El Yucateco, Mad Dog, Melinda’s and many more besides. Also sell jalapenos, chili peppers, salsas and pastes. Polish-only website, but easy to navigate and superb

64

WARSAW INSIDER | APRIL 2014

customer service.

open Mon-Fri 9:00-17:00 (Office) www. schelleracademy.pl Instantly recognizable by his beret and whiskers, Swiss-born Kurt Scheller invites guests to his Saska Kępa kitchen for lessons aimed at all skill levels.

Targ Śniadaniowy al. Wojska Polskiego, tel. 508 121 891, open Sat 8:00-16:00, www.targsniadaniowy. pl The idea is a bit different as it is out in the open air, on the grass, so good weather is a must. Part healthy food market, part breakfast WHOLE FOODS picnic, part educational space, part chance to Krowarzywa (D5) get your two wheeler fixed but above all, an ul. Hoża 42, tel. 516 894 767, open Sun-Thu idyllic way to spend a Saturday morning in a 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00 Even beautiful part of town. committed meat eaters concede there’s Targ Spożywczy Poziom -1 something special here. This is a burger bar ul. Bracka 25, open Fri 12:00-20:00; Sat with a difference: the stuff between the bun 10:00-20:00; Sun 10:00-18:00. Find this is vegan – and way superior to the majority food market occupying the basement floor of ‘proper’ burger bars. Very popular with of the historic Dom Bracia Jabłkowscy. Local the local hipsters, so anticipate bewildering producers peddle artisan produce that ranges fashion statements and eccentric hair. $ from chocolate and cakes to hams, wine, Loving Hut (B2) preserves and bread. There’s even a stall Al. Jana Pawła II 41A, tel. 888 555 568, open retailing edible creepy crawlies.

Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00; Sun 12:00-20:00, W Gruncie Rzeczy (D5) www.lovinghut.waw.pl What looks like just ul. Hoża 62, tel. 692 464 489, open another Vietnamese greasy spoon is, in fact, 10:00-23:00 A vegan haven whose menu is part of a global chain backed by a spiritual heavily slanted towards local produce. The master. The reading material is creepy and offer includes a number of vegan pastes, cultish, but the vegan food is good if you’re sandwiches, beetroot burgers and soups (e.g. that way inclined. Now also found downtown cream of pumpkin with coconut milk). The on Waryńskiego 3 $ presence of equally hip Meat Love next door is something of a foil, with the two neighbors naturally complimenting each other. $

*

Pestka

COOKING SCHOOLS Cook Up Studio ul. Racławicka 99 (Fort Mokotów), tel. 22 212 89 76, www.cookup.pl Workshops in a gorgeous cooking studio located in a redbrick fortress. Past themes have included Swedish cooking (led by the Swedish Embassy chef), knife skills and soup, with lessons culminating in eating all that hard work.

Joseph’s Culinary Studio ul. Duchnicka 3, tel. 663 040 800, www. jospehseeletso.pl A familiar face from the TV, Botswanan born chef Joseph Seeletso marks a new chapter of his career with the launch of his own culinary academy. Tailor-made courses for individuals and groups are held in a custom-designed kitchen, and include cookery classes, wine tasting, dinner and the chance to learn a stack of secrets from the man himself.

Scheller Academy ul. Międzynarodowa 68, tel. 22 626 80 92,

Organic Bistro

Pestka (D4) ul. Bracka 6/8, tel. 691 706 900, open Mon-Fri 8:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-19:00; Sun 12:00-19:00, www. organicbistro-pestka.pl A simple, soothing space of sparing decorations, light modern finishes and plenty of natural light that gushes through the windows. Eschewing the fat and lard that used to feature so prominently in local living, Pestka is all about organic: consider it a gateway to sensible living and a balanced diet. Even the fish is tested for high metal content. Recommended are the bio-baguettes, corn tortilla wraps and wholemeal pancakes. $ W Gruncie Rzeczy (D5) ul. Hoża 62, tel. 692 464 489, open 10:00-23:00 A vegan haven whose menu is heavily slanted towards local produce. The offer includes a number of vegan pastes, sandwiches, beetroot burgers and soups (e.g. cream of pumpkin with coconut milk). The presence of equally hip Meat Love next door is something of a foil, with the two neighbors naturally complimenting each other. $

Reviews: Duchnicka Food & Wine 65 / Plus:

* 4 updates

CAFÉS & WINE BARS CAFES 65 / WINE BARS 69

for past picks visit: www.warsawinsider.pl

Insider’s Pick

CAFÉS Bar Studio (C4) Pl. Defilad 1, tel. 603 300 835, open Sun-Thu 10:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-2:45 The ascetic, modern décor is intentional – both not to compete with the fine adornment of the original walls and to break through the building’s grandiose airs. It’s hard not to be overawed by the sheer gigantism of the Palace that looms above. It seamlessly slips from café during the day into its more culturally active persona in the evenings, with concerts, film screenings, plays and political discussions.

Blikle (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 35 (check website for other locations), tel. 22 826 6619, open Mon-Sat 9:00-last guest; Sun 10:00-last guest, www. blikle.pl There’s a cultured, pre-war look to Blikle, a proud cafe with a 100 year history.

Famous former clients include Charles de Gaulle who swore by their donuts.

Duchnicka Food & Wine ul. Duchnicka 3, tel. 22320 2989, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00, www.duchnickawinebar.pl

Y

ou’ve got to ask, was there a strategy involved when picking this location, or was it decided by throwing a dart at a map? Honestly, I’d bet on the latter. But I like this seemingly indiscriminate positioning on the distant borderlands of Żoliborz. It shows a confidence to say, “we won’t come to them, let them come to us.” Importantly, this confidence is not misplaced. Found in one of those trendy refurbished post-industrial spots, this former factory is now clad in the logos of the resident media and design studios.

Walking around you can feel an almost brassy swagger and assurance in the air, making Duchnicka Food & Wine an organic addition to this reinvented complex.

As someone with quaint and English views regarding courtesy and etiquette, I don’t like being kept waiting or made to feel like the invisible man, so it’s a blessing to find guests are afforded the full red carpet treatment the moment they enter. But it’s apparent that attitude is not the only international aspect to this place. The wine store that presents itself on crossing the threshold is extraordinary in options, with a choice of 700 world wines personally selected by the revered sommelier Rafał Kiś.

Careful not to send the bottles crashing we move into the attached restaurant – there’ll be time for browsing the wine later. With its dark woods and crimson flourishes the place could feel heavy and overwhelming were it not for one key detail: the open kitchen. It’s an element that’s integral to completing the space and lending it an anchor. It’s also the key to fostering a sense of connection between guests and personnel – at one stage a diner walks over to quiz the chefs on ingredients and technique before congratulating them all on a job well done. With our food yet to arrive, this is good news to hear.

And you’ll certainly want to eat when faced with the succinct choice of meaty mains: rack of lamb, New Zealand veal shank and Argentine rib-eye. And that’s when it all makes sense: ticking the boxes marked atmosphere, food and wine, it becomes easy to see why Duchnicka’s map coordinates don’t really matter. (BI)

Bubbleology (D4) ul. Chmielna 26, tel. 693 002 218 or 22 110 02 21, open Mon-Thu 11:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:30-23:00; Sun 10:30-22:00, www. bubbleology.pl Looking like a 26th century version of Willy Wonka’s factory (psychedelic colors, Japanese lettering, and doors marked Top Secret), this place is no ordinary café.

But that’s down to the drinks, rather than the décor. Warsaw’s original bubble tea stop offers an arsenal of fruit flavors concocted by zany-looking lab-coated staff.

Bułkę przez Bibułkę (E8) ul. Puławska 24, tel. 794 000 634, open Mon-Fri 8:00-22:00; Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-16:00, www.bulkeprzezbibulke.pl There’s a feminine style to this cafe, what with its cute, girly pastels, petite plant pots and woodsy finishes. But no matter what your gender or age, there’s something immediately sunny and positive about this place. Slow food sandwiches arrive on wooden boards, there’s pretty homemade desserts and a careful choice of wine: falling in love with it is easy.

Być Może (E7) ul. Bagatela 14, tel. 519 000 014, open 7:00-

facebook.com/warsawinsider

65

CAFÉS & WINE BARS 23:00, www.bycmoze.com.pl The stars of the show are the various breads, their motto being “everything with bread and bread with everything”. Dishes are characterized by seasonal fare and a departure from a cookie-cutter attitude towards food. You can grab an artisan breakfast, a daily-changing two-course lunch deal or even casual dinner with wine.

Cava (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 30, tel. 22 826 6427, open Mon-Fri 9:00-24:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-24:00, www.cava.pl A prime spot on Nowy Świat’s red carpet keeps business brisk in this highend cafe. Premium Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee available, and best enjoyed on a seasonal terrace that can barely be bettered for its people spotting opportunities.

Café 6/12 (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 622 5333, open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-23:00, www.612.pl Famous for dispensing complex fruit and vegetable super smoothies, 6/12 have even introduced a full diet plan: pop-by for breakfast, then grab a goodie bag packed with balanced meals and snacks for the day ahead. Being healthy has never tasted better. Or looked better for that matter; the cavernous interiors are still very much the choice haunt for on trend 30 something’s.

Chłodna 25 ul. Chłodna 25, tel. 604 614 287, open MonFri 9:00-22:00; Sat 11:00-22:00; Sun 12:0022:00 It’s back! Under new management, this Warsaw legend has been reclaimed from the hipsters and given over to the creative classes. A place of creaking floorboards, retro armchairs and bookshelves in the process of being filled, that this neighborhood hangout draws more than just neighbors is evidence of its greatness. And the really good bit? They’ve now got beer (Bojan, Lwówek and Goralskie) – let joy be unconfined!

Café Iluzja (C9) ul. Narbutta 50A, tel. 698 423 738, open daily 11:00-22:00, www.cafeiluzja.pl Bathed in white and black and shades of grey, it’s an allusion to the black and white films of bygone days. The interiors as a whole were designed in a 1950s vibe and the massive armchairs are by far the best part. What more do you expect from a café inside a cult socialist era cinema.

Café Lorentz (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 3, tel. 606 699 199, open Mon-Wed 10:00-20:00; Thu 10:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-20:00; Sun 10:00-19:00, www.cafelorentz.pl Set at the front of the National Museum this place has a nice indoor area with high ceilings and minimalist decorations and a green outdoor area populated by wickers chairs and hammocks (obviously, depending on the season). As is the rage in Warsaw, the menu is light, natural and healthy.

Café Vincent (D3) ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. 22 828 0115, open Sun-Thu 6:30-24:00; Fri-Sat 6:30-1:00 Expats from France, a nation of master bakers if ever there were, profess Vincent to be their favorite Warsaw bakery. And they’re not alone. Queues build quickly as locals line up to buy baguettes, cinnamon rolls, lemon croissants and beautiful pains au chocolat.

But people don’t just head in then out, a small wine list and brilliant people spying opportunities cause most to linger.

66

WARSAW INSIDER | APRIL 2014

*

*

Christian’s Bakerhouse (E5) ul. Książęca 6, tel. 22 628 6345, open daily 9:00-21:00, www.bakerhouse.pl “Our chef places great emphasis on quality,” confided our waitress, and that’s no word of a lie. Numerous national breakfasts are represented, from nutritious kick-starters to a full British fry-up – which we’ve yet to see bettered by anywhere in Warsaw. The pet project of celebrity chef Krystian Zalejski – and not some nutty religious order as the name might suggest – the offer extends beyond breakfast to good Italian staples cooked with a twist.

Coffee Karma (D6) pl. Zbawiciela 3/5, tel. 22 875 8709, open Mon-Fri 7:30-22:00; Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-22:00, www.coffeekarma.eu Order a smoothie, switch off the phone, open the book – it’s that sort of place. Concerts and art shows figure in their repertoire, as does rather good coffee. But to see Coffee Karma at her best, wait for the spring terrace.

Croque Madame (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 41, tel. 530 757 200, open 8:00-23:00 A French-themed charmer with rough, white painted brickwork, distressed wooden furniture and lots of eccentric bric-a-brac to keep an eye out for. Dealing out fresh baguettes and pastries, the whole boulangerie/café concept is excellently executed.

Cześć (C3) ul. Grzybowska 2 (through the side passage),

tel. 505 695 512, open Mon-Sat 11:00-last guest; Sun 10:00-22:00, www.czesc.waw.pl Located down a gusty tunnel underneath a modern residential/office compound, you might not expect much. But this small room is a treasure: one with Artezan Pacific and British cider on tap, Rwandan drip coffee, mountain vodka and boutique cakes made with love. Changing art adorns the walls, and there’s no shortage of eccentricities – upcycled crates as shelving, and a toilet with a Space Invaders theme. A versatile place, it’s the café everyone needs next door.

Dr. Kava (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 601 615 327, open MonFri 7:30-20:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-20:00, www. drkava.pl Looking dynamite red, Dr. Kava was one of the success stories of 2013 – some go as far as to say it’s their favorite coffee in the city. Coffee from Chicco d’Oro and chocolates and confectionary from pedigree producer Leone signal this doctor’s dedication to his clientele.

Dziurka od Klucza (E3) ul. Radna 13, tel. 500 150 494, open Mon-Sat 12:00-21:00; 12:00-21:00 Dziurka serves an ambiguous role as a bar, restaurant and cafe. Curious doors sit embedded on the wall, as if waiting to be opened by the keys that hang on the tree outside. Flowers, plant pots and violet splashes give it a cheerful spin, while the Italian inspired menu isn’t short on creative flair.

Fawory ul. Mickiewicza 21, tel. 791 096 725, open Mon-Thur 8:00-22:00; Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 10:00-22:00 An intimate neighborhood cafe that comes complete with mugs that announce: “Fresh Coffee Tastes Better”. You bet it does. The smoothies and regional beers are just as good though, and come served inside a white interior splashed with an awesome mural.

Filtry Café (A6) ul. Niemcewicza 3, tel. 507 815 204, open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00; Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00, www.filtrycafe.pl Filtry Cafe’s got great coffee, fruit shakes, cakes, and light breakfasts combined with a funky fleapit atmosphere that attracts hipster art lovers.

Francuska 30 (H4) ul. Francuska 30, tel. 504 975 370, open Mon-Thur 8:00-23:00; Fri 8:00-24:00; Sat 9:00-24:00; Sun 9:00-22:00 An attractive

modern cafe whose primary talking point is the terrace: a colorful affair shaded by dozens of umbrellas dangling from above.

Kafka Café (E3) ul. Oboźna 3, tel. 22 826 0822, open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00, www. kawiarnia-kafka.pl Floor-to-ceiling glass walls, retro checkered floor tiles and rows of pre-loved books lining shelves characterize this café hotspot. They serve salads, pastas and pancakes and tote plenty of “free” factors: free wi-fi, smoke-free interiors and attitude-free waitresses.

Kava i Vino (D4) Al. Jerozolimskie 42, tel. 22 692 7314, www.kavaivino.pl The standout feature is an unconventional interior designed by renowned architects Dobek, Wojcickiego, Białobrzeska, Boczko. Over 1,200 pieces of wood hang from the ceiling, creating a beautiful visual effect. The short menu features wine, cold meat platters, cheese

bruschetta, wraps, salads and sandwiches, as La Vanille (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 578 2233, open well as a few daily specials – the results are 10:00-20:00, www.lavanille.pl Thick with fair to good. the scent of icing sugar, it looks sharp and KluboKawiarnia Towarzyska sleek with glossy lifestyle mags tossed on ul. Zwycięzców 49, tel. 22 270 2179, open battleship grey sofas. But it’s the counter that 11:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00, www. is the magnetic force: here you’ll find fantastic klubokawiarnia.net Urban cool penetrates cupcakes of all color and flavor spread out in Saska. With an interior modeled by John precise military formation – try the Red Velvet.

Strumiłło, this 50s pavilion has an ascetic Don’t forget the cakes in stand alone fridge. design defined by polar white interiors.

Le Chocolat (D5) Contrast is provided downstairs, with deep magenta walls and retro armchairs. Concerts, ul. Żurawia 26, tel. 22 114 26 42, open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-16:00, screenings and art happenings have made it www.lechocolat.pl This chic emporium is into something of local cultural mainstay. the realization of one couples desire to offer La Scarpetta (D5) top-quality chocolates that challenge the ul. Marszałkowska 68/70 (enter from palate of the discerning fan. Inspired by the Skorupki), tel. 602 309 391, open chocolate boutiques of Paris, over twenty 10:00-21:00 An inviting Italian-style café different brands from a dozen countries are with warming woods, autumnal colors and a available. Handmade pralines and truffles, blackboard menu that diverts away from the displayed almost like jewels, come in a cliché. Standard pasta dishes are ignored in rainbow of fillings, from coconut to cherries, favor of bruchetta and pidine sandwiches. mint to almonds.

facebook.com/warsawinsider

67

CAFÉS & WINE BARS Limoni Canteri 1952 (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1, tel. 789 176 730, open daily 8:00-22:00. Also at ul. Zwycięzców 49, tel. 518 652 436, open daily 10:00-22:00 Appearing as a wooden cabin in an overgrown park (someone, clear it up please), Limoni get noted for Italian gelato that’s too good for words – join the line for tastes like cherry, plum and redcurrant, or go edgy and experimental with flavors such as salmon, tomato or basil.

Magiel Café (F8) ul. Stępińska 2, tel. 22 841 0016, open Tue-Thu 12:00-22:30; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 10:30-17:00, www.magielcafe.pl Situated in a former laundrette, sweet looking Magiel comes crowded with rusting mangles and vintage posters advertising soaps and powders. Featuring some delicious homemade meals inspired by both the Polish and Mediterranean spirit, this place also gets noted for esoteric Polish beers, as well as a series of French wines sourced from private vineyards.

Między Nami (D4) ul. Bracka 20, tel. 22 828 5417, open Mon-Wed 10:00-23:00; Thu 10:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun14:00-23:00, www. miedzynamicafe.com With 18 years of service under their belt you may think of Między Nami as being an antiquated has-been. Not so. Haunted by a mix of media types and local characters, this hip white piece of postcommie Warsaw has an enduring, almost timeless appeal.

*

Ministerstwo Kawy (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 27/35, tel. 503 080 906, open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00, www.ministerstwokawy.pl Ranked 16th in the WORLD, you can put your faith in the house barista. Using Arabica from Colombia, Kenya and Guatemala, rave reviews are both standard and appropriate.

The backdrop muddles pristine wall tiles with comfy chaises and uber-cool lighting, with the ambience never too commercial, nor too hipster – rather, just right.

MiTo (D6) ul. Waryńskiego 28, tel. 22 629 0815, open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-23:00, www.mito.art.pl Café, gallery, bookstore.

Of course, we’ve seen that concept before, just not done in this style. Stark white backgrounds are offset by edgy art, lending the place a Tate Modern feel, something accentuated by the earnest fashion students

68

WARSAW INSIDER | APRIL 2014

who gather through the day. And there’s the toilet, a futuristic affair with piped music and a mirrored wall. my’o’my (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8 (enter from Górskiego), open Mon 11:00-22:00; Tue-Thu 10:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-21:00, www. myomy.pl Slightly rustic in design, with wooden panels painted white and winding stairs that lead to a charming second floor.

The baked goods are courtesy of baker extraordinaire Zofia Różycka, and the rest of the food offer is pretty grand as well. Its popularity with Warsaw’s mid-20s set makes it occasionally claustrophobic.

Niezłe Ziółko Café & Deli (D5) ul. Krucza 17, tel. 664 844 439, open Mon-Fri 8:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-19:00 A shrine to pure and healthy eating, this friendly café doesn’t just brew a great coffee, but bakes its own bread and produces its own yogurt. Sit in the loft to look down on shoppers scurrying to Mokotowska, and on the way out, check out ‘Grandma’s Cupboard’ in the corner: jams, spread and olive oils are there to buy for home.

Państwo Miasto (B1) ul. Andersa 29, tel. 22 400 9446, open 9:00-24:00, panstwomiasto.pl Is there anything better than sitting in a café, book in hand, while spring sunshine pours through the windows? We go to Państwo to do just that, an echoy, cavernous café with a young, lively crowd that’s keen on scholastic events and political causes. Never does it feel too trendy, or too hipster – it’s a place that’s all about atmosphere and friendship.

Prosta Historia (H4) ul. Francuska 24, tel. 22 870 13 25, open Mon-Wed 12:00-22:30; Thu-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00 Informal looking with its clean white finishes and stripped wood floors, it’s an ideal spot for a lazy weekend – few places in Warsaw feel so naturally continental.

The food, it needs to be said, is very good indeed, with hefty steaks, multiple burgers and some fine desserts.

Relaks (E9) ul. Puławska 48, open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00; Sat 9:00-19:00; Sun 9:00-18:00 Generally travelling by tram for a cup of Joe sounds excessive, but that’s exactly what you’ll be doing on discovering Relaks. Expertly prepared, right down to the foam art, the baristas here use the finest imported machines and

work only with fair trade, ‘specialty’ coffee. If you have time, the drip coffees are more than worth the wait. The interiors supply a retro accent, and are lapped up by a very fashion aware crowd.

Secret Life ul. Słowackiego 15/19, tel. 507 226 552, open Mon-Thu 8:00-21:00; Fri 8:00-22:00; Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 You might already be familiar with Secret Life of Things, a fab design store on the other end of town.

Now the same minds have expanded their offer to include this café, a delightful spot that opened in summer. The deckchairs outside may have gone but the hype lingers on: an eclectic design marries a Scandinavian look to an eccentric spirit, while unpasteurized beers, organic teas and a locally sourced menu do the rest.

Socjal (E4) ul. Foksal 18, tel. 787 181 051, open Mon-Thu 12:00-2:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-4:00; Sun 12:00-2:00. Looking raw, industrial and fashionably spartan, the principal feature of Socjal is the long communal table – who you end up talking to is down to the dice. A faded concept, maybe, but in Socjal it feels as fresh as tomorrow. Pizza and Prosecco are the best sellers.

Square 5 Pl. Bankowy 3/5, tel. 504 914 773, open Mon-Fri: 7:00-22:00, Sat 8:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-22:00. Square 5 comes as a pleasant surprise amidst the desert that is Pl. Bankowy. Combine their extensive blackboard menu with a countertop heavy with freshlybaked goods from their own oven and you newcomers may be positively overwhelmed.

As for their coffee, that’s premium Ionia il Caffe, and it comes in all forms: from the traditional cappuccino to more daring coconut macchiato.

Starbucks ul. Nowy Świat 62 (check website for other locations), tel. 713 861 953, open Mon-Thu 7:30-21:30; Fri-Sat 7:30-23:00; Sun 9:0021:30, www.starbucks.pl No introduction needed: top coffee with several seasonal specials and free wifi throughout.

*

Sueno ul. Oboźna 9, tel. 604 614 204, open Tue-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. There are unique designs in Warsaw, and then there is Sueno, a place that incorporates jam jar lights, chunks of wood

and swingy hammocks into its look. But aside from looking easy-on-the-eye, this café has made a splash on account of an affordable menu of cool little bites: for instance, won-ton ravioli with ginger chicken.

Waff-Love ul. Senatorska 28, tel. 502 635 222, open Mon-Fri 8:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-20:00, wafflove.pl Upon entering the petit premises the homey waft of sweet crispy batter hits your senses, and while the waffles are less sweet than your traditional Belgian product, after a mountain of toppings you’d be hard pushed to notice. Kiss dietary resolutions goodbye...

Wars i Sawa (E3) ul. Dobra 14/16, tel. 796 880 822 or 793 567 125. open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-21:00 Creaking floorboards, unfinished plastering and piles of books set the tone to this ‘culture café’. It’s exactly what you’d expect of Powiśle, and the sort of stop best enjoyed on your own with a pot of tea, a dog-eared novel and your tightest skinny jeans.

WINE BARS Ale Wino! (E5) ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 628 3830, open Mon-Tue 10:00-22:00; Wed-Sat 10:00-24:00, www.alewino.pl Warsaw is increasingly devoted to megalith wine worlds. In comparison, Ale Wino is small fry, Lilliputian even. Yet there’s a real charm that wins over all. Covertly stashed inside a courtyard, that Ale Wino’s! neighbors include fashion Tsar Robert Kupisz announce this place as the frontline of cool – as if to qualify this, find furnishings by the celebrated design brains at Studio Rygalik. Stocked with wines from 16 countries, place your trust in sommelier Adrian Litkowicz for a taste of something special.

Bristol Wine Bar (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmiescie 42/44. open 12:00-23:00 Effortlessly evoking a real sense of history, the design is a triumph with lots of polished brass and nickel, rich wood finishes and marble floors. You feel like you’ve stepped into a film. But talking points aren’t limited to the interiors alone.

The wine selection was personally overseen

by Robert Mielżyński, possibly the most esteemed wine importer in the country. And the choice is prodigious. Offering a complete

cruise through the wines of the Old Continent and the New World, the collection is precisely presented from behind glass cases that line the walls. BEST WAWA 2013 “Wine Bar” Charlotte (D6) ul. Aleja Wyzwolenia 18 (enter from pl.

Zbawiciela), tel. 22 628 4459, open Mon-Thur 7:00-24:00; Fri 7:00-1:00; Sat 9:00-1:00; Sun 9:00-22:00, www.bistrocharlotte.com It matters not if you’re easily traumatized by the catwalk parade that is Charlotte. Open from seven on weekdays, it’s the place for a morning croissant. And if you’re armed with the latest Mac technology, all the better – join the other posers at the communal table. Located on Warsaw’s most happening roundabout, there’s no better place to indulge a hangover with a spot of eavesdropping than inside this boulangerie/wine bar.

Duchnicka Wine & Food ul. Duchnicka 3, tel. 22 320 2989, duchnickawinebar.com Tucked away off center in a renovated factory, Duchnicka functions as a wine store, restaurant and an emphatically good wine bar – so good, in fact, it was the runaway winner of our annual awards a couple of years back. There’s over 700 wines to pick from, and you won’t go wrong placing faith in the sommelier, Rafał Kiś.

Hoża by Mondovino (D5) ul. Hoża 25a, tel. 515 037 001, open MonSat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, www.hoza.warszawa.pl Successfully establishing themselves over summer, you’ll probably know Hoża as the home of steak.

But what is meat without wine? Complimenting the Argentine-inspired cooking is a wine list particularly dense with reds. They’re the personal selection of actor / owner Tomasz Budyta, a successful wine importer for the last 23 years.

Jung & Lecker (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 14, tel. 22 866 6749, open Mon-Thur 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00, www.prawdziwewina.pl Some think of this as a neighborhood wine bar – they’re clearly privileged, because if everyone had a Jung & Lecker next door it’d be a kind world indeed.

While the courtyard garden is a highlight, even in the sub-zero season there’s reason to swing by. Offering an intimate atmosphere and a strong menu, the finishing touch is provided by way of wines sourced directly from 15 wineries in Germany’s famed Pfalz, Rheinhessen, Rheingau and Mosel regions.

Heritage (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17, tel. 22 857 0912, open Mon-Sat 8:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-20:00 The gentrification of Zbawiciela continues with the appearance of Heritage, a place of tap wines, cobbled floors, and simple, well-thought interiors. With its crates, boxes, cans and tins, Heritage fill a binary role as a deli/wine store for an ascendant new money crowd.

Mielżyński Wine Bar (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 636 8709, open Mon-Fri 9:00-23:00; Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 11:30-17:00, www.mielzynski.pl Robert Mielżyński, a Canadian-born oenologist, awakened Warsaw’s love affair with the grape when he launched Mielżyński in 2004, and it continues to serve as the accepted benchmark to which all wine bars aspire.

Their cause is amply boosted by a fine selection of bites to accompany the superlative wine offer. Find it in a pared down warehouse that emanates with city casual cool.

WinKolekcja (E10) ul. Olkuska 7, tel. 22 542 8031, open Mon-Sat 12.00-23.00; Sun 12.00-20.00, www.winkolekcja.pl You can’t pick your neighbors... In WinKolekcja’s case, that means a kebab shop opposite and a bottle bank with a constant stream of street bums. But in spite of the curious location, this new wine bar/ store looks set to thrive; the wine choice is comprehensive, and the food excellent. The design has the routine look of a club class lounge area; even so, it’s a timely addition to an area not rich in options.

Winosfera (B3) ul. Chłodna 31, tel. 22 526 25 00, open MonSat 12:00-23:00, www.winosfera.pl Lending a lift to a sad stretch of Chłodna is Winosfera, a huge wine bar with all the requisite crates and industrial fittings – there’s even a cinema. The upside is true fine dining, and a flawless wine selection. Żurawina (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34, tel. 22 521 06 66, open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-18:00 Lacking in intimacy, this large white room gets criticized for its jarring artwork and staffing blips – in the world of wine it’s important the customer can connect to the staff: here, we felt like we were joining the SS. But both food and wine score highly, and they’ve already won a staunchly loyal following. Get your week off to a galloping start and visit on ‘Jazz Monday’s’. You’ll be joining the most beautiful people in the city.

facebook.com/warsawinsider

69

Faced with the hardest job in the world, askmen.com have singled out the finest lap dance club in the world. Wouldn’t you know it, it’s right on our doorstep…

I t’s not often Warsaw finds itself topping an international Top 10 list, least not when it comes to important things like entertainment. But one club in town has found itself declared not just the best in Poland – or Europe even – but the best on the planet. That place, and wives and girlfriends should best look away, is Playhouse – welcome to the world’s best strip club, as decreed by askmen.com.

Clearly, to win such an accolade, there is something very special about Playhouse. “The main strength of our club,” beams the manager, “is the quality of the dancers. We don’t just limit ourselves to Slavic talent, but also fiery Latin girls from Colombia, Asian girls from the Philippines, and Arab girls from Morocco. Our dancers come in all shapes and sizes, but because our club is so popular we can be very selective in which girls work here.” As he finishes his sentence, an angel glides down the runway and assumes position on a pole (as in a metal shiny thing, not some geezer called Darek). I allow myself a smile. Yep, there’s no doubt about it, I’m being paid to watch Poland’s most beautiful women.

However, unless someone pays me to travel the world visiting lap dancing clubs (and I’m happy to accept contributions), I am not in a position to qualify the sentiments of askmen.com. But put it this way, after ten minutes inside I don’t think they’re lying. By the end of the night, I’m convinced that they’re not. Yet it is not just the quality of the, erm, entertainment that sets Playhouse apart, it’s the atmosphere as well. Not here aggressive, pushy tactics (“buy me drinky drinky”), and not here swaggering drunks or gorilla gangsters at the door. It feels comfortable and easygoing, a world removed from the steaming meat markets found downtown. On one table a group of corporate clients are celebrating a deal over vintage champagne, while on another, a young group of gents are doing their best to keep their eyes from falling out – here, that’s the main source of trouble. This is a world in which reality is suspended; where dreams come alive and fantasy reigns. It comes at a cost – your eyes will never be the same.

Playhouse Al. Solidarności 82A, www.playhouse.pl

Reviews: Delirium Warszawa 71 / Plus:

* 4 updates

NIGHTLIFE

for past picks visit: www.warsawinsider.pl

BARS & PUBS 72 / CLUBS 78 / GENTLEMAN’S CLUBS 78 / JAZZ CLUBS 78 / SHOT BARS 76

Insider’s Pick

U PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT

ntil Cuda Na Kiju opened last year the denizens of Warsaw lived in serious deprivation. Sure, there were bars that sold good beer, but they weren’t for you and me: they were for hipsters and halfwits. Cuda changed that, presenting a range of craft beers for the general population. Other multi-taps opened soon after, and I spent a pleasant summer in a state of intoxication. Warsaw’s nightlife had taken a fresh, bold direction.

Launched this March, Delirium have taken the multi-tap trend and tinkered and tuned it. As exciting and experimental as the new wave of Polish brewing has been, everybody knows that no one does it better than the Belgian’s themselves. So to find a Belgian-themed tap bar is good news indeed. Signposted by a dancing pink elephant, Delirium presents its cause the moment you enter – on the bar in front there’s about twenty or so taps. Then, to the

left, a huge walk-in fridge with a staggering selection: speaking to one of the co-owners she tells me, at this point, there’s about 120. She forecasts that it’s a number that will grow to cover 200. Peering through the glass, I feel like a small boy staring through a shark tank: hypnotized, spellbound and a little scared for my liver.

The design is bare bones and spartan – lots of brickwork, some seats made from beer kegs, and varying ephemera of the

Belgian brewing trade: posters and coasters and other detritus. It doesn’t need more: it’s all about the beer. We try lambics and tripels, dubbels and blond ales, each poured in their distinct, official way: there is fruity Mongozo, served in halved coconut husks, and Kwak in its cult wooden holder.

And, of course, there is the signature pink elephant beer, the Delirium Tremens itself.

It’s a knockout. The photographer, already showing early signs of wobbles, quips to me, “we arrived in peace, we’ll leave in pieces.” As he predicts, the evening descends into a gentle, drunken muddle, a process encouraged by the extraordinary beers and their eccentric labels: chuckling monks and sniggering Satan’s.

In terms of quality, there is a forensic attention to detail. The mussels are from Belgium, as too are the potatoes used for the frites. Both are declared a triumph.

This is especially true of the mussels, priced zł. 35 and cooked in beer. The chips themselves are as good as I remember from my last trip to Brussels (granted, my memories are misty – I was there for Euro 2000, a boozy military exercise following the England football team). The green pepper sauce I pair with the frites comes highly recommended.

The location, some would say, is daring in the least. Of all the under-visited districts in Warsaw, the New Town figures highly. Sure it gets on the tourist trail, but be honest, when was the last time you heard a rallying cry of “let’s drink on Freta!” But be prepared to be hearing that a few times over spring. What we have with Delirium is the creation of a bar serving the world’s best beer. That’s got to count for something.

Yes, the prices for Poland are relatively weighty, but remember this: Żywiec downtown costs around ten. Here, you’ll pay zł.

20 for a pint of Blanche de Namur. Is it twice as good? No. It’s two hundred times better.

That it’s served in a laidback environment that feels welcome to all is the cherry on the cake. (AW) Delirium Warszawa ul. Freta 19, tel. 532 742 400, open 11:0022:00, delirium-warszawa.pl

facebook.com/warsawinsider

71

NIGHTLIFE BARS & PUBS Bastylia (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17, tel. 22 825 0157, open 8:00-23:00 Before Zbawiciela became The Center of the World, Bastylia was an unassuming pancake shop with a militant lesbian following. Smelling money it’s done a 180 turn and been reinvented as a champagne bar with whitewashed brickwork and mandarin sofas. For all the effort it just doesn’t feel right – and the staff get plenty of big red crosses.

Bazar (F1) ul. Okrzei 22, tel. 508 321 264, open 12:00last guest There’s Krusovice, Bernard and Staropramen on tap, and the Czech slant is lent added meat by a series of evenings held in cahoots with the Czech Cultural Centre – it’s during boozy disco nights the party spills into a shadowy cellar with light retro hints. On ground level its raw and industrial with asphalt colors and overhead pipes. You wouldn’t expect it, but the margaritas are smashing.

Beirut (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, open daily 12:00-4:00, www.beirut.com.pl As hip as ever, Beirut has walls dusted with cult album covers, documentary posters and witty graffiti inspired by Banksy. Busy in the day, and absolutely packed at night, order unconventional beers (Noteckie, English ale, Erdinger) from androgynous staff standing behind a sandbag bar decorated with silver hand grenades and a model tank.

Bierhalle (A1) Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), open 11:00last guest It’s been five years since Bierhalle tapped their first beer, and in those five years they’ve nailed the market. Fantastic Pils served in a boozy, Bavarian atmopshere, and a decent menu to iron out any hunger issues.

*

Bollywood Lounge (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, tel. 22 827 0283, open Sun-Thu 12:00-3:00; Fri 12:00-6:00; Sat 14:00-6:00, www.bollywoodlounge.pl Now on Nowy Świat, the team have used the opportunity to upgrade their offer: gone is that low-rent feel of old, replaced in favor of a more classy look and a slicker crowd.

What has remained constant is the energy.

Ace cocktails (recommended: Jim Ban Chili), tottering talent and a range of sheesha pipes make it a weekend must, though the big news is the completion of their downstairs

72

WARSAW INSIDER | APRIL 2014

club: check it out for the bright, banging beats of the Bollywood sound.

British Bulldog (D4) ul. Aleje Jerozolimskie 42, tel. 22 827 0020, open 11:00-1:00, www.bbpub.pl The big fail of 2012. Forget that it’s the most accurate replica of a traditional British pub around, and consider instead the heinous service, fried aromas and a deserved ex-pat boycott traced to the dismissal of the original British manager.

Browarmia (D3) ul. Królewska 1, tel. 22 826 5455, open daily 12:00-last guest, www.browarmia.pl An industrial looking microbrewery filled with mysterious pipes, valves and gauges. The summer terrace is great, making it one of the best places around for a brew with a view.

Cafe Kulturalna (C4) Palace of Culture, pl. Defilad 1, tel. 22 656 6281, open Mon-Sat 12:00-last guest; Sun 15:00-last guest, www.kulturalna.pl The location is unbeatable and visiting the Palace late at night is an amazing, almost mystical experience.

Chwila (B3) ul. Ogrodowa 31/35, tel. 22 401 1754, open 12:00-last guest; Sun 15:00-last guest Entered under a red, cabaret-style awning, Chwila is a reject factory space turned good.

Furry cushions, patchwork quilts and student art vie for attention alongside iron girders and industrial leftovers inside what is becoming known as one of the top alternative music venues this side of the river. The toilet alone, papered with trillions of cool posters and magazine covers, is a reason to linger.

open daily 11:00-15:00, www.barmax.pl Can you trust a cocktail bar that can’t even spell the word? In this case, it’s a resounding yes. With its light wood touches and fruity montages Max looks bright, cheerful and fully loaded for the sun, and also comes with an alcove in the back stuffed with whisky and cigars. The cocktails are the main affair though, and here they’re extravagant efforts that resemble a tropical jungle in a miniature form. The only problem? By their very nature, cocktails aren’t concocted in two minutes flat – if it’s busy, waiting around is like Death by a Thousand Cuts.

Cuda Na Kiju (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, tel. 662 006 106, open 10:00-2:00, www.cudanakiju. pl Warsaw’s multi-tap revolution started here! Marketed at normal people – not just hipsters, for a change – this sleek space comes drenched in sunlight that comes slanting through the four glass walls. Could it be too basic? No – anything else would detract from the main attraction: the beer.

About 15 taps dispense regional brews, cult indy productions as well as quirky imports from Czech, Belgium and beyond.

Cześć (C3) ul. Grzybowska 2 (through the side passage), tel. 505 695 512, open Mon-Sat 11:00-last guest; Sun 10:00-22:00, www.czesc.waw.pl Some say it’s more of a café – we say, check the fridge. Despite its diminutive size Cześć have one of the most adventurous alcohol offers in the city, with a steady stream of British cider (Sheppy’s, Weston’s, Old Rosie), Polish lagers (Artezan, Pinta) and other international names (Grimbergen, Crabbies). If there was an award for best neighborhood hangout, they’d breeze it.

Chmielarnia (B5) ul. Twarda 42 (basement level), tel. 22 890 77 05, open Mon-Thu 11:00-24:00; Fri 11:00-2:00; Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 12:0024:00, www.chmielarnia.waw.pl A subterranean space that can get loud and rackety, sweaty and sticky. Featuring a ‘tomb’ of mainstream beers, Chmielarnia may look a little basic, but it’s definitely the real deal.

A peerless selection of craft beer sees 40 lagers rotated on 15 taps, and even more rare finds in the fridge: among them BrewDog, Lindemanns, and of course a comprehensive choice of experimental Polish brews. Look out for stocks of Thistly Cross.

Czeska Baszta (E4) Tower 22A, Most Poniatowskiego, open Tue-Thu, Sun 16:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 16:00-24:00; Sun 16:00-23:00, www. czeskabaszta.pl Set in one of those towers that props up Most Poniatowskiego, its surroundings look grim – at night even scary.

Bathed in a yellowish murk, it’s actually warm and welcoming, and the reason for that soon becomes apparent: everyone is drunk!

There’s 80 Czech beers to pick from, and they do more than enough to distract from the rattle and rumble of overhead trams and a swamp monster toilet.

Coctail Bar Max (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 691 710 000,

Czeska Piviarnia ul. Ks. J. Popiełuszki 19/21, tel. 730 855

NIGHTLIFE 566, open Sun-Thu 16:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 16:00-2:00 Warsaw’s realization that there is beer beyond Żywiec is in evidence with the creation of this haunt. Seven Czech beers are rotated on the taps, and several dozen more sit in bottles in the fridge. While the design doesn’t go far beyond tables and chairs, it’s a sign city center trends are penetrating the suburbs. If you’re Żoliborz-based, then it’s a must.

Czysta Ojczysta ul. Ząbkowska 27/31, open Mon-Fri 18:004:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-4:00 Here’s a turn up for the books: a Praga bar that doesn’t look

infected. Set in a one-time vodka factory, this white-on-white haunt features little more than soothing colors, iron posts (watch them), and a whole wall of vodka. Expect the party to spill out into the courtyard, itself utilized for maverick events like bicycle polo.

Dubrovnik (D4) ul. Nowogrodzka 22, tel. 885 835 885, open 11:00-last guest, www.dubrovnik.waw.pl Yes, Dubrovnik is a restaurant. And yes, it’s a restaurant that doesn’t promise much – set with woodsy features and mock-rustic details, it looks cheap and tacky and one to avoid. But guess what, it’s one of the first tankovy pubs in Poland! A Czech innovation, the storing system preserves the beers freshness, and even takes away the usual gassy, belchy taste of Tyskie.

Gorączka Złota (D5) ul. Wilcza 29, tel. 22 625 6855, open MonFri 13:00-24:00; Sat 17:00-24:00, www.goraczka-zlota.com.pl Founded in 1996, Złota’s longevity is to be admired, even if the interiors aren’t. Small, dark and a little pungent, the interiors are rendered out of little more than varnished wood and hundreds of beer coasters. But that’s the clue! The secret of their success is down to the beer. Stocking a range of regional and craft beer (Ale Browar, Pinta, Kormoran, AltenMunster, Olbracht, etc.), this unfashionable bar has an underlying honesty that makes it a success.

THERE’S ONLY ONE LEGENDARY BURGER IN WARSAW!

Haka (D4) ul. Bracka 20, tel. 515 967 123, open MonWed 10:00-24:00; Thu-Sat 10:00-2:00; Sun 12:00-24:00 Big things are happening in this small little room. Under the stewardship of Kevin Bradley this ex-pat hit has now added Guinness and live sports (it’s the rugger bugger favorite) to their offer to go alongside a fab menu by Kiwi chef Shane. An intimate space clad in brickwork and metal, Haka gets further applause for adding Arnie – Warsaw’s favorite cocktail king – to their staff lineup.

Huśtawka (D4) ul. Bracka 20A, open Mon-Fri 12:00-last guest; Sat-Sun 16:00-last guest A raw cultish hangout, popular with a non-conformist crowd who know how to party. Allegedly inspired by 80’s New York City, find this labyrinthine late-nighter in a courtyard palace.

WARSAW

Irish Pub (C2) ul. Miodowa 3, tel. 22 826 2533, open daily

74

WARSAW INSIDER | APRIL 2014

011-112-Wasaw-Insider-46x137.indd 1

2013-11-12 14:39:54

11:00-last guest, www.irishpubmiodowa.pl Affecting a look that only an Irish pub can escape with – strange smells and chipped wood – this boozer is perhaps more noted for its live music and camaraderie than for anything else. There’s events practically every night, ranging from local rock acts to cool blues. If you failed the X Factor audition then do the next best thing and visit for karaoke night.

Jimmy Bradley’s (C4) Warsaw Towers (ground floor), ul. Sienna 39, tel. 22 654 6656, open Mon-Fri 10:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 12:00-last guest, www. jimmybradleys.pl Rudderless since the departure of the original landlord, Kevin, this former ex-pat bastion is looking increasingly haggard and past its sell-by date. Tales of walkouts, staff sackings and customer boycotts have swirled thick and fast. There are Guinness taps, and there is a Sky dish, but the people who know how to operate either have long left the building.

Kameralna (E4) ul. Foksal 11, tel. 887 878 731, open 12:00-24:00 With a militia truck outside, and interiors that feature cutlery by Społem and 70s newspapers on the walls, you’d be right to think we’ve got another venue that celebrates the past. Looking vast and comfortingly cluttered, Kameralna is both a restaurant and a nightspot – brewing their own beer, the house lagers elevate it above the competition.

*

Kita Koguta (E5) ul. Kurcza 6/14. Due to open as we went to press, Kita Koguta promise high-end cocktails from the same duo who used to knock the drinks up in this venue’s predecessor: Colombia. That being the case, expect quality.

Full review next issue.

Kosmos Kosmos (D6) ul. Koszykowa 55, tel. 602 108 366, open 11:00-last guest A large cellar complex decorated with outlandish space murals, orange seats and lego bricks. And in the front, find a kids room complete with a slide. Warsaw’s hipster faction have already attached themselves to it, with the opening drawing a crowd of hundreds milling outside.

Kraken Rum Bar (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, tel. 791 334 606, open daily 12:00-4:00 Named after one of the ocean’s most feared mythical creatures (the scary squid from Pirates of the Caribbean),

the wood-clad Kraken features a wall of cymbals, heavy furniture and some interesting photography. While there’s some decent bottles of rum, there’s perhaps not enough to justify calling it a rum bar. The house beer rocks though.

Kufle i Kapsle (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 25, tel. 22 127 7218, open Mon-Thu 14:00-2:00; Fri 14:00-4:00; Sat 12:00-4:00; Sun 12:00-2:00, www. kufleikapsle.pl Ten tap and two pump beers offer a magnificent spread of daily changing beers, and the good news continues with the choice in the fridge: there’s 120 beers down there, so gamble on a rather jolly night. Interiors are balanced with the pre-war heritage of the building, and are already thick with noise, clamor and the welcome scent of beer and spillage. BEST WAWA 2013 “Beer Bar” Kwadrat (D5) ul. Poznańska 7, tel. 790 010 088, open Mon-Fri 16:00-last guest; Sat 18:00-last guest, www.kwadrat.waw.pl Chilled out and

downtempo, owners Zosia and Michał have created a legend out of this dinky two room affair. There’s too many beers to recommend, though the Rowing Jack diminishes quickly for a reason.

Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri 11:0002:00; Sat 12:00-02:00, Sun 12:00-23:00, www.legendsbar.pl A place that just keeps growing on us; there’s a segregated smoking chamber, traditional dartboard (no stupid electronics here), Sky Sports and a menu that’s as authentically English as the Downing Street cat. In charge of it all is Graham, a seasoned ex-pat with an embassy background.

Leniviec (D5) ul. Poznańska 7, open Mon-Thu 7:3024:00; Fri 7:30-2:00; Sat 9:00-2:00; Sun 9:00-24:00, www.leniviec.pl Once known as a café, Leniviec still fulfill that role during daylight. However, it’s their reinvention as a cocktail bar that’s got Warsaw talking, with

very superb mixology skills completing a laidback look.

Lolek (A8) ul. Rokitnicka 20 (Pole Mokotowskie), tel.

22 825 6202, open daily 11:00-03:00, www.lolekpub.pl A boisterous pub with a Bavarian, bacchanal spirit and a parkcentered location. Strangers squish together on shaky benches while sausages grill over an open fire inside this classic rough-andready drinkery. Catch it at its best in summer when the outdoor seating is thronged.

Małe Piwo (D7) ul. Oleandrów 4. tel. 510 905 592, open Mon-Thu 16:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 16:00-24:00; Sun 16:00-23:00 Tight trousers and flamboyant scarves are recommended in this hipster mecca, as is a triumphant drinks choice that numbers short of sixty regional beers. Design doesn’t go beyond jam jars for lights and a messy blackboard, but that’s all this place needs to work. Similar to a backstreet New York dive it’s got an effortless cool and our beer of the year: the

facebook.com/warsawinsider

75

NIGHTLIFE minty flavor/raspberry hint M3.

Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’ (D4) Enter from ul. Nowy Świat 26 Enjoy while you can – slated for demolition in the coming years, the pavilions represent underground Warsaw at its raffish best. A low rent maze of dark, budget bars await, including the celebrated Klaps with its vibrator beer taps.

OSP Saka Kępa ul. Walecznych 74, tel. 603 103 888, open Mon-Thu 15:00-24:00; Sat 13:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-22:00, www.ospsaskakepa.pl A little on the small side, the interior features several bits of Fireman Sam detritus: helmets, goggles, a uniform and some toy fire trucks (it’s in a fully functioning fire station!). A decent beer selection cools down neighborhood drinkers, not to mention decent bites which include a refreshing melon chłodnik.

Panorama Bar and Lounge (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 630 6306, open Mon-Sun 18:00-2:00, www.panoramabar.pl An elegant bar that would easily pass for the VIP room of a wellto-do club. A floor 40 location makes it great for a date: the sunset views are dazzling.

Paradox (B1) ul. Anielewicza 2, tel. 691 472 969, open Sun-Thu 10:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-2:00; Sun 10:00-23:00, www.paradox-cafe.pl Billing themselves as a ‘sci-fi / gamers / role play asylum’ this is a cradle of geeks, nerds and people who collect serial killer memorabilia. Decorated with plastic black crows, a map of Mordor and figurines of goblins, watch as oddly attired suspects engross themselves in ‘for hire’ games with names like Hobbit and Bewoulf.

Parking Bar (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 27, tel. 501 623 456 or 537 606 897, open Sun-Thu 16:00-2:00; Fri-Sat 17:00-6:00, www.parkingbar.eu It looks raw and ready, but then what did you expect from a place on the ground floor of a car park. Plentiful concrete, mesh fences and swinging car tire seats lend it unique characteristics, as do the drinks: the creative cocktails are served in small little jars. At times it feels a bit slow, but that changes on their weekend club nights.

Paparazzi (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 22 828 4219, open daily 18:00-last guest, www.paparazzi.

Shot Bars Afera na Szpitalnej (D4) ul. Szpitalna 3, tel. 509 777 797, open 10:00-2:00; Fri-Sat 24hrs Looking light and bright this place appeals to more than just hardened alcoholics – a point proved by spot-on food home cooked by the owner’s mum. It’s young, fun and lively in swagger.

Bar Warszawa (D2) ul. Miodowa 2, tel. 504 320 497, open 24hrs Creak upstairs to find a womb-like space filled out with sofas and nostalgic decorations like vintage radios, pics of old stars and black and white images of bare-breasted ladies. Run as a side hobby by a TV producer, the opening hours meet with full approval.

Meta (D3/E4) ul. Mazowiecka 11 & ul. Foksal 21, open 11:00-6:00 Affecting the style of a PRL era bar, these twin venues feature a raft

76

WARSAW INSIDER | APRIL 2014

of keepsakes leftover from the old days – right down to the chains of bog paper.

Pijalnia (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 19, open 24hrs Bow-tied staff serve vodka and pickles from behind a tiled bar to a crowd that gets younger as the day gets older. In quieter times, check the newspapered walls to read up on 1980s sports reports.

Przekąski u Romana (F4) ul. Ludna 2, tel. 660 525 777, open 24hrs. When Warsaw’s original shot bar, Przekąski Zakąski, closed last year the gasps were audible. But fear not, the cult hero you’d have found serving the shots, the bow-tied, debonair Roman Modzelewski, has gone and opened his own venue. Expect the same formula (cheap beer and vodka, traditional Polish boozy bites) inside a background dominated by a giant picture of the Palace of Culture.

com.pl Engage in suicidal cocktail consumption alongside high rollers and genetic miracles. Slick and smooth, Poland’s original cocktail chain continues to set the bar high with formidable cocktails (Pimm’s included!) and a smoking section that encompasses everything but the front door.

Pardon To Tu (C4) Pl. Grzybowski 12/16, tel. 513 191 641, open 10:00-4:00, www.pardontotu.pl Decorated in voluptuous brothel colors, the design involves mismatched seats, tilted lampshades and a relaxed arthouse look popular with creatives and other fringe dwellers. The live talent ranges from moody quartets to jazzy chanteuses, while a perfect marriage of late hours and great bottled beers helps along the enthusiastic crowd of latter day beatniks.

Pies Czy Suka (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8A, tel. 22 881 83 73, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00; Sun 16:00-23:00, www.piesczysuka.com Monochrome gun metal grey colors are offset by a fashionable crowd attired in red shoes, pink trousers and blue headphones. This clean, concrete space is speckled with plaster moldings of reindeer heads, and excels on the cocktail front. Order from an iPad menu, before settling back for cocktails made using mad scientist, molecular techniques that involve foam, vapor, beakers and other things you’d usually find in Professor Yaffle’s lab.

Piw Paw (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34 (enter from ul.

Parkingowa), tel. 534 734 500, open 11:00-1:00 Dubbing themselves to be Warsaw’s first ‘hyper tap bar’, Piw Paw have an armory of 57 tap beers, about ten tables and two toilets – do you see the problem?

Designed more for carry-out custom, it’s an ambitious project though one that doesn’t feel entirely thought out. And in spite of the offer, it’s nothing more exciting than the other multi-tap choices. A good start point, nonetheless.

Plan B (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 508 316 976, open Mon-Sun 11:00-last guest. www.planb.pl Plan B is the very essence of dive Warsaw. Weekends pass by in a raucous blur, with the party spilling out under the colonnades outside – it helps to look like a DJ, but in truth everyone is welcome. The hangover from this shabby, grubby bar is traumatic.

Polonez (D5) ul. Poznańska 24, tel. 604 942 169, open Sun-Wed 10:00-1:00; Thu 10:00-2:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-3:00. Sparse milk bar chic is set against plenty of oddities (black and white Cybulski films, a set of antlers, hordes of junk), but the cool aesthetics only tell a part of the story. This is a celebration of Poland, both old and new, with drinks that include obscure nalewki, craft local beers, bio drinks and regional tipples. The masterstroke comes in making this all feel international, contemporary and creative.

Przychodnia (D3) ul. Jasna 22, tel. 22 827 8356, open 12:00-24:00 Erm, so, here’s a bar themed around communist hospitals. Are you sure that’s a good idea? Order test tube shots from staff dressed like docs, before settling into an interior equipped with operating room lights, surgical utensils and a smoking room designed like a toilet. What were they thinking with this one? No idea, but it’s certainly a novelty.

Secado (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 66, tel. 608 707 799, open Mon-Fri 10:00-23:00; Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-23:00 Most part restaurant, bit part bar, there’s a flexibility here that has turned it into one of those places where people meet, eat and generally hangout – not always in that order. And as for the drinks, they’re really very good. Using their own mixes, Secado present a succinct list of musttry cocktails. Try their best seller: the Bloody

Hell. Using Chopin vodka infused with horse radish, pirri pirri and basil, this pimped out version of the Bloody Mary incorporates chili syrup and wasabi in a high octane drink that BEST WAWA 2013 kicks like a mule.

“Cocktails” Spiskowcy Rozkoszy (D5) ul. Żurawia 47/49, tel. 796 671 950, open Mon-Thu 16:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 16:00-1:00; Sun 16:00-23:00, www.spiskowcy.pl The ground floor is an intimate space with lots of yet-to-be-famous beers and junky, antique furniture that reminds of the Boho hangouts in Kraków. But what was a packed, little bar is now a packed, big bar with the opening of the basement: find a labyrinth of rooms and psychedelic toilets with pulsating lights – you soon wonder who spiked your drink.

And oh, the drinks. Expect IPA and APA beers served from the six taps.

Sztuka i Sztucki (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8A, tel. 22 468 00 00, open Sun-Thu 12:00-last guest; Fri-Sat 18:00-last guest, www.sztukisztuczki.pl Visitors negotiate a maze of narrow corridors, nooks and corners, with meanderings to the leviathan, boat-shaped bar taking in concrete floors, naked brickwork and vaulted ceilings. The beer list offers a jumble of exemplary brews, among them the outstanding Grimbergen, while cocktails are novel and largely ravishing. And of course, it helps that enjoyment of them is done on ultra-cool seats designed

by Pierre Favresse. Rather than attracting gurning wannabe’ Latino dudes and plastic

models the music attracts a diverse range of peeps: that’s thanks to a schedule that encompasses everything from jazz tributes to club nights. BEST WAWA 2013 “Late Night”

*

Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 621 8622, open Mon-Sun 12:00-last guest, www.warsawtortillafactory.pl Warsaw’s premier sports pub: and it’s not just the extent of their sporting offer that elevates WTF, but the atmosphere. Whether it’s international rugby, or Bristol City on a Tuesday night, the tension, camaraderie and horseplay are unmatched. On the occasions when there is no sport, swing by for live bands and a lively atmosphere fueled by a heady mix of ex-pats, international students, and locals bewildered by it all. The recent addition of boutique beverages such as Brew Dog and Thistly Cross has gone down a treat.

Warszawa Powiśle (E4) ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B, tel. 22 474 40 84, open Mon-Fri 11:00-last guest; Sat-Sun 9:00-last guest, www.warszawapowisle. pl The prime months for this former ticketbooth are in summer when the deck chairs outside provide ample opportunity for the city’s young to gather in an almost carnivallike atmosphere. Seen as the hipster Center of Power, a collective bout of outrage saved them from council threatened closure last year. Not just a bar, they’re now filling a dual role as Warsaw’s one billionth burger joint.

Restauracja / Bar / Klub

ul. Nowy Świat 58, Warszawa | Al. Jana Pawła 9-11 (Aleja Topolowa), Gdynia www.bollywoodlounge.pl / Polub nas na Facebooku

facebook.com/warsawinsider

77

NIGHTLIFE CLUBS 1500m2 (E3) ul. Solec 18, tel. 22 628 8412, open Fri-Sat 22:00-06:00, www.1500m2.com Set in a former printing factory, 1500m2 has been central to the rise of Powiśle. The industrial space has a real Berlin edge to it, and events range from weekend flea markets to teeth shattering, dusk-till-dawn electro events.

Basen (E5) ul. Konopnickiej 6, tel. 696 058 944, open Fri-Sat 21:00-6:00, www.artbasen.pl Get this, you’ll be doing your dance steps in what was formerly Warsaw’s first public swimming pool. Featuring a line-up of live bands and some of the top electronic acts around, this is definitely one to add to the watch list.

Capitol Theatre and Club (C3) ul. Marszałkowska 115, tel. 22 826 8570, www.clubcapitol.pl An extravagant dance space with sparkly chandeliers, regal staircases and a modern Moscow, over-thetop style. Mark the Hed Kandi events in your diary for a night to remember.

*

De Lite (E5) ul. Marii Konopnickiej 6, tel. 792 014 166, www.deliteclub.pl This place definitely figures highly in the ‘bubbles and beauties’ stakes. Scantily clad dates bop along sipping on martinis, flirting and dancing, while exposed brick and pipes, raw concrete and an interesting mirror setup in the bathrooms add to the futuristic, spaceship interior.

Element (D4) ul. Jasna 1, tel. 22 667 435 363 or 22 692 42 42, open Thu-Sat 22:00-7:00, www. elementclub.pl With door control negotiated, clubbers slip downstairs into a blue-lit labyrinth heaving with slick, polished finishes and a thumping sound system. Marketed at the higher end of the clubbing world, there’s no shortage of temptresses gyrating around in a dense cloud of perfume.

Enklawa (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 22 827 3151, open Wed-Sat 22:00-4:00, www.enklawa.com Forget internet dating, Enklawa is the best pick-up joint around – a classic kitschy, glitzy disco, it draws in huge crowds with a simple lineup of pop and dance hits. Still regarded as the best Wednesday night in Warsaw, it’s the place for singletons looking for a one night confidence boost.

78

WARSAW INSIDER | APRIL 2014

The Eve (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9 (corner of ul. Wierzbowa), tel. 604 145 462 or 22 827 5242, open ThuFri 21:00-last guest, www.theeve.pl Beauty and booty come first in The Eve, a blinged up offshoot of Platinium nearby. A cutthroat door policy ensures plenty of egos crash and die at the door, and it’s got a Bacchanalian reputation for champagne popping high jinks.

Observe them through the one way mirror in the VIP room.

Foksal XVIII (E4) ul. Foksal 18, open Fri-Sat 10:00-4:00 Composed using chandeliers, bricks and velvet this classy space has gone head to head with The Eve as Warsaw’s flashest venue: breathe deep and smell the money.

Cardboard animal shapes hang from the bar, adding some surreal humor to the seriously competitive air.

Luzztro (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, open Wed-Thu 22:00-10:00; Fri-Sat 24:00-14:00, www. luztro.pl Feeling naughty? Luztro enjoys a nefarious reputation as something of a dodgy den of illicit pharmaceuticals and libertine behavior. Looking grim and grotty, this after party legend gets going at about 4 a.m. when troglodyte club creatures emerge to put the final touches to their zonked out stare. For the full tilt, rib rattling electro experience it’s pretty hard to beat.

Platinium (D3) ul. Fredry 6, tel. 694 413 439, open Thu-Sat 21:00-6:00. www.platiniumclub.pl The place if you’re rich or beautiful – but preferably both. Large and spectacular you’ll need to be dressed to the nines to reap the rewards that lie inside: featuring the most eye candy per sq/m in Europe, you might not find Mr/Mrs Right, but you will find Mr/Mrs Right for Now. Sen Pszczoły ul. Ząbkowska 27/31, tel. 530 360 060, open Tue-Wed 18:00-2:00; Thu-Sat 18:005:00; Sun 18:00-2:00, www.senpszczoly.pl A dive club of legend. With the original turned to ashes (literally, it burnt down last year), the owners could have been forgiven for calling it a day. They haven’t. Instead they’ve reopened in Koneser, and unleashed Warsaw’s most surreal interior in the process: amid the heavy industrial background expect bunk bed frames, a dentist’s chair and neon painted weirdness. Concerts are a mixed bag, and range from didgeridoo performances to inter-war songs to full-on techno.

GENTLEMAN’S CLUBS New Orleans (D4) ul. Zgoda 11, tel. 22 826 4831 or 600 063 667, open Mon-Sun 16:00-4:00, www. neworleans.pl High rollers looking to clinch a deal in unusual surrounds should consider doing so in New Orleans: a gentleman’s club with a seriously VIP dining area. Cheaper snack and sandwich options available should you prefer to spend your money on the real reason you’re here…

Playhouse (B3) Al. Solidarności 82A, tel. 794 007 000, open 21:00-4:00, www.playhouse.pl Housed in a former bomb shelter, would you believe it.

Now though the talk is of bombshells, namely the 57 they’ve got on their books. The largely Slavic lineup is bolstered by dancers from Colombia and Morocco.

Sogo (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, www.sogoclub.pl The neon lit exterior would dazzle from space.

Inside, find a vast strip club that opens up over a couple of floors. Dancers are in plentiful supply, with several resembling fallen angels.

The bouncers are less approachable and don’t tolerate monkey business – tread carefully.

JAZZ Bistro na Pięknej (D6) ul. Piękna 20, tel. 22 627 4151, open Mon-Fri 11:00-24:00; Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-23:00, www.jazzone.pl A slick looking jazz spot that’s seen the benefit of a recent overhaul. Valued additions include a less austere style and what at times might feel like Warsaw’s only fireplace. Popular with a smart city crowd, keep an eye out for their live acts.

Nu Nu Nu (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 621 8989, open Mon-Fri 11:00-24:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-24:00.

For something a little educated take a date to Nu, a high-ceilinged effort with slick urban dashes and regular piano. The Żurawia location marks it out as a popular spot for a high-end crowd.

Tygmont Jazz Club (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 6/8, tel. 22 828 3409, www.tygmont.com.pl, open daily 16:00-4:00 For true jazz lovers, Tygmont is a breath of fresh air in a city up to its ears in terrible acoustics.

Reviews: Super Salon 79 / Plus:

* 1 update

SHOPPING

for past picks visit: www.warsawinsider.pl

ACCESSORIES 79/ ANTIQUES 80 / BOOKS 80 / FASHION 80 / HOME DECOR 82 / SHOPPING MALLS 84

Insider’s Pick

Supar Salon ul. Chmielna 10, tel. 22 468 1619, open Mon-Sat 11:00-19:00, www.supersalon.org

A

person I met here once accused Warsaw of not being a “real city” because it lacked a Prada store. Not being able to relate to the statement I laughed, replying only that I thought Warsaw wasn’t a real city because of the absence of a reputable magazine store.

I am, after all, a magazine person, and there’s no hiding from the fact that for many years Warsaw was missing the kind of media stores you’d find in Berlin, London, Paris and New York. Now though, with the opening of Super Salon, I fully retract my statement.

I was walking down Chmielna looking over to the little nook where Mela Verde is to see what business transformations were occurring when I first spotted it. I immediately investigated, walking in with something of a sense of surprise. Forgetting where I was I didn’t even think of speaking in Polish: “When the hell did this open?” I asked. The person working laughed, and in shared enthusiasm and appreciation of the stock revealed it was just a few months old. Without having to look I instantly saw all the titles I pick up when going back to New York: Apartmento, Elephant, The Gourmand, Kinfolk, Cereal, Aperture, and Gather.

I picked up a few of the usual suspects but fled before I could spend more money on the amazing art books published by the likes of Steidl, Mack, Gestalten and Powerhouse.

From a recent visit, I can recommend checking out the new Wes Anderson Collection (a brilliant compilation of all that is Wes Anderson) and A Work in Progress / René Redzepi from the genius behind Noma. To brush up on your Polish (artists), they have this totally unique book of hand-painted film negatives called Negative Book by Aneta Grzeszykowska (famous for remaking Cindy Sherman’s iconic photos from the seventies). Also in store, check the collection of city cycling books by Thames & Hudson in case you’re heading to any of the cities previously mentioned. If you love printed matter, you’ll love this story – and as the t-shirt says, “support your local bookstore”, because here’s one I don’t want to see vanish. (KD)

ACCESSORIES Agent Provocateur ul. Mokotowska 59, tel. 22 273 6162, www.agentprovocateur.com The boutique is stocked full of the latest collection – gorgeous lacy bras with scrumptious attention to detail, matching panties, teddies and a bunch of strappy get-ups you can only get away with if you’re very fit or very confident, but preferably both. And if that’s not enough, they’ve got sexy stockings, silk robes, perfume, satin gloves, a blindfold and nipple tassels…

Bath & Body Works ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00, ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 The famed American brand signals its arrival to Europe with the launch of their Warsaw branch. Now fans of the brand can experience first-hand luxurious fragrant body care, hand and home collections.

Customers can discover sophisticated fragrances, test shower gels and soaps at the sink area, and try everything from body lotions to home fragrances.

Batycki (various locations) Bozena Batycka’s sleek, simple handbag designs are made with italian leather. While her products are not inexpensive by Polish standards, their uniqueness combined with substantial durability make them a perenial favorite.

Glamstore ul. Narbutta 83 (entry from ul. Łowicka), tel. 794 689 090, open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-15:00 Widely hailed by Poland’s fashion glossies, this store sells modern furnishings with all the trimmings and colours you could ask for. They also stock kitchen and bathroom accessories, as well as touting their own jewelery line.

HOS&me ul. Mokotowska 63, tel. 22 625 0881, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 12:00-15:00, www. mokotowska63.com Luxury jewelry and the

facebook.com/warsawinsider

79

SHOPPING best in the biz. In stock: high end treasures from Nialaya, Lene Bjerre Design, Ti Sento, Christensen and Dryberg/Kern.

Impossible Project ul. Mysia 3, tel. 884 867 518, open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-18:00. The Polaroid comes back to life in Impossible Project, a place with refurbished original cameras as well as new film formula.

Lilou ul. Mokotowska 63, tel. 22 403 19 19, open Mon-Fri 11:19:00; Sat 11:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-16:00, www.lilou.pl Modular jewelry made simple, and a must for all Warsaw fashionista.

Victoria’s Secret Beauty & Accessories ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 665 625 618, open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00, ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), tel.

22 541 4141, Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 An assortment of Victoria’s Secret Beauty products including fun and flirty fragrances, such as Bombshell, as well as the scented VS Fantasies body care range. For that glam girl-on-the go, expect to find a wide range of Victoria’s Secret branded bags, luggage, passport covers and small leather goods to cosmetic bags, bangles and key fobs.

ANTIQUES Kolo ul. Obozowa 99, www.gieldastaroci.waw.pl What looks like a soggy tent city transforms each Sunday morning into a hopelessly addictive flea market offering wartime militaria, religious icons, chinaware, furniture from unverified periods of history, and even the occasional suit of armor. Half-junkyard, half treasure trove, it’s an experience in itself.

Kwadryga ul. Wilcza 29, www.kwadryga.com Entered through a courtyard, it’s a magnet for bibliophiles, and groans with antique books, faded photographs, yellowing maps and dog-eared magazines – the atmosphere is timeless. The PRL-era lifestyle magazines are an amazing insight into the past.

Lamus ul. Nowomiejska 7, tel. 22 831 63 21, www.

80

WARSAW INSIDER | APRIL 2014

lamus.pl Another antique bookstore that comes filled with leather-bound tomes, regal looking scrolls and elaborate maps. Also known for their pre-war prints and paintings of Warsaw before it was knocked down.

Lapidarium ul. Nowomiejska 15/17, tel. 509 601 894, www.lapidarium.pl Cavalry swords, pre-war Judaica, Orthodox icons, books, scrolls, helmets, cameras, chess sets, jewelry…

Lapidarium is possibly one of the most famed antique stores in the capital, and presents the opportunity for endless rummaging.

Prima Porta Antiquities ul. Moktowska 71, www.primaportaantiquities.com At the top end of the scale the German-run Prima Porta specialize in pieces from ancient Rome, Greece, Egypt, Mesopotamia and Asia. Formidable pieces from tiny little Egyptian clay hippos from the 12th Dynasty, all the way to one and half meter statues of Buddha from the Third Myanmar Kingdom.

*

Victoria Galeria ul. Żytnia 15 lok. 4, open daily 10:00-18:00, www.antykivictoria.pl Sourced from the auction houses of London, with deliveries arriving each month, the offer is overwhelmingly English, though not exclusively so – there are oriental pieces, French, and more.

Refreshing in its bright, clean style, Victoria is a magnificent environment to shop for that statement piece every living room requires.

BOOKS American Bookstore Various locations, www.americanbookstore. pl Now a nationwide chain with seven outlets alone in Warsaw. The offer is overwhelmingly commercial with a strong emphasis placed on international bestsellers. There is, however, a very decent section dedicated to Polish history and tourism.

Bookoff Ogrodowa 7, tel. 22 253 6286, www.bookoff.pl A cult bookstore filled with trendy fashion and design bibles, photography albums, on-trend cookbooks and grown-up comics.

You could potentially end up spending really rather heavily.

Centrum Komiksu al. Niepodległości 148 Enter the realm of sci-fi, superheroes and Manga inside Centrum

Komiksu, an unabashed geek-fest that draws not-at-all-creepy enthusiasts sifting through a classic collection of comics and collectibles.

Dom Spotkań z Historią ul. Karowa 20, www.dsh.waw.pl Look no further for books on modern Polish / Warsaw history. Of particular note are the picture heavy coffee table tomes that focus on Poland’s immediate pre-war, occupation and socialist years. Boffins are happy to spend hours browsing.

Fundacja Bęc Zmiana ul. Mokotowska 65/7, www.beczmiana.pl A tiny curiosity shop retailing hipster t-shirts, trendy trinkets and a fair amount of arty books with a strong slant towards contemporary Warsaw.

FASHION American Eagle Outfitters Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (C. H. Arkadia), tel. 665 625 639, ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), tel. 605645289, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 American Eagle brings you high-quality, on-trend clothing and accessories inspired by a denim heritage that truly expresses individual style.

Ania Kuczyńska ul. Mokotowska 61, tel. 22 622 02 76, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00 Ania Kuczyńska is becoming well known for her highly fashionable, minimalist clothing designs. The store also carries adorable baby clothes and various accessories.

Chiara ul. Mokotowska 49, tel. 22 376 5489, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00, tel.

22 611 3814, pl. Uni Lubelskiej, tel. 22 647 0394, open Mon-Fri 10:00-21:00; Sat Sun 10:00-20:00, www.chiara-online.pl A solid assortment of Marc Jacobs and other top international designers such as Michael Kors and Jil Sander.

Designer Secret ul. Mokotowska 39 (courtyard), tel. 506 051 048 or 511 649 493, open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-17:00; Sun 11:00-15:00, www.designersecret.pl High end designer clothing brands at discount prices. The racks brim with ladies and mens apparel from the previous years’ collections, with price tags that read from one third to 50% off the original price.

BROUGHT TO YOU BY MOLIERA 2 & PL. TRZECH KRZYŻY 3/4

Spring Fashion Forward

Insider Shopper

Add a spring to your step this month with the season’s latest fashion and accessories from Ralph Lauren and Valentino.

For Him at Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4

All men’s fashion by Ralph Lauren, from left: top zł. 1,070, trousers zł. 1,735, sneakers zł. 435, espadrilles zł. 935.

For Her at Moliera 2

All women’s fashion by Valentino, from left: ballet flats zł. 2,095, platforms zł. 1,675, high heels zł. 1,985, clutch bag zł. 6,785, bag zł. 8,300.

pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 tel. 22 622 1416, www.plactrzechkrzyzy.com Moliera 2 ul. Moliera 2,tel. 22 827 7099, www.moliera2.com

facebook.com/warsawinsider

81

SHOPPING Frank A ul. Natolińska 3, tel. 22 424 79 79, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00, www.franka.pl The interior is painfully chic and the clothing effortlessly elegant with a minimalist edge. Stocks major brands that you can’t find anywhere else in Warsaw, from handbags from Pauric Sweeney, perfectly fashioned tees from American Vintage and ballet flats from Bloch.

Gosia Baczyńska ul. Floriańska 6/11, tel. 516 133 507, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; 12:00-15:00. www.gosiabaczynska.com.pl This elegant boutique on the other side of the river features gorgeous, unique designer pieces.

Likus Concept Store ul. Bracka 9 (Vitkac), tel. 22 310 73 13, open Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00; Sun 11:00-18:00, www.likusconceptstore.pl The latest collections from Diesel, D2, Ferre, Sophia Kokosalaki and J. Lindeberg are all available and presented in this stylish three-floor department store.

Maciej Zień Boutique ul. Mokotowska 57, tel. 519 000 049, open Mon-Sat 11:00-19:00, www.zien.pl A flagship boutique from one of the stars of Polish fashion. Check Zień Home upstairs for the ultimate designer showroom.

Moliera 2 Boutique ul. Moliera 2, tel, 22 827 7099, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, Sat 11:00-16:00, www. moliera2.com Moliera 2 is the first place in Poland with collections of Valentino, Christian Louboutin, Salvatore Ferragamo, Ralph Lauren Collection, Herve Leger, Moncler Gamme Rouge, Isabel Marant, Simonetta Ravizza, Tod’s, Tory Burch and Balmain.

Muji ul Mysia 3, tel. 502 264 091, open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00; Sun 12:00-18:00, www.muji. com.pl Having first opened its doors in 1983, in Japan, Muji still retains its simple aesthetic and ethos of marrying functionality with sophistication, with products ranging from furniture, kitchenware, stationary and clothing. Check out their online store.

Pinko Klif shopping Centre, ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4616, open Mon-Sat 9:00-21:00, Nowy Świat 1, tel. 22 629 1773, open

82

WARSAW INSIDER | APRIL 2014

Mon-Sat 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-19:00; Sun 11:00-16:00, Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), tel. 22 541 3862, Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-22:00, www. pinko.it Straight from Italy, this exclusive shop offers an array of chic day wear and eye-catching casual and evening clothes.

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, tel. 22 622 14 16, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:0017:00, www.plactrzechkrzyzy.com The first Ralph Lauren store in Poland features not only the latest RL collections for men and women, but also labels like Tod’s, Tom Ford, Valentino, Tory Burch, Moncler and Salvatore Ferragamo. Ready-to-wear clothes and accessories.

Premiere Klif shopping Centre, ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4710, open Mon-Sat 9:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00 The boutique continues the Versace connection with a special “Versace Corner” nestled in the company of the last pieces from the Calvin Klein Collection and VJC Versace.

QπШ - Robert Kupisz ul. Mokotowska 48/204, tel. 506 170 801, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-14:00, www.robertkupisz.com One of Warsaw’s hottest fashion icons, and a trip here soon explains why. The exclusive, handmade garments are a guaranteed head turner.

Redford and Grant Metropolitan Building, Pl. Piłsudskiego 3, tel. 22 313 2400, open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat: 11:00-15:00, www.redfordandgrant.pl This multibrand fashion store is the ultimate destination for designer style in Warsaw for men and women. Offers clothing and accessories from the newest collections from designers like Dior, YSL, D&G, Gucci, Miu Miu and Prada.

Reykjavik District ul. Solec 18/20, tel. 501 399 222, open Tue-Fri 13:00-19:00; Sat-Sun 13:00-17:00, www.reykjavikdistrict.com Chic, well-cut menswear for all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal.

Sabotage ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 887 1056, open Mon-Sat 10:00-19:30 Those in-the-know know Sabotage as one of the places to buy

funky deconstructed denim and sportswear pieces. Here you’ll find a wide array of unique clothes, hats, belts and handbags in a variety of fabrics and styles that hail straight from New York, London and Tokyo.

Snobissimo ul. Mokotowska 28, tel. 22 629 8759, open Mon & Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00 Top labels from design houses like Jimmy Choo, Sonia Rykiel, Les Copains, Sergio Rossi.

With shoes and accessories all provided for, it’s a one-stop shop to re-boot your wardrobe.

Teresa Rosati Al. Witosa 31, tel. 609 433 343, open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-18:00, www.teresarosati.com.pl Elegant cocktail dresses, gowns for special occasions and beautiful fabrics from one of Poland’s best-known designers.

Ready-to-wear and custom-made services at discreet location in Sadyba by appointment.

Vintage Store ul. Dobra 56/66 (Level 1, University of Warsaw library), tel. 501 301 742, www. vintagestore.pl Since its inception the store has grown in many ways – now, used brands like Burberry, Barbour, dresses from the ’70s, Hermes scarves, snakeskin handbags, or original Adidas sweaters from the ’60s and ’70s (the owner is an avid collector) are not an uncommon find in the shop.

HOME DECOR 3F Studio ul. Nowolipki 28b, tel. 22 651 5644, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00, www.3fstudio.com.pl Offers furnishings and lighting from top contemporary Italian brands like BB Italia, Moroso, Living Divani, Desalto and Artemide. The in-house design team creates custom interiors for clients.

A&A Bath ul. Chmielna 12, tel. 883 310 201, open Mon-Fri 12:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-14:00 Inspired by their travels, and appalled at the lack of bath stores in Warsaw, two best friends decided to put their design and business skills to the test and launch A&A Bath. Featuring a New England summer cabin aesthetic, many of the products are designed by the owners, even so you’ll find imports from Denmark and Sweden as well.

Apteka Sztuki Al. Wyzwolenia 3/5, tel. 22 622 0421, open

SHOPPING Tue-Sat 11:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-17:00 Apteka Sztuki is an art gallery that features collections by up-and-coming contemporary artists, preferring promising unknowns to big names. The exhibits, which rotate on a monthly basis, include a variety of media created by artists from all over Europe (although the focus is on Poland).

Bo Concept ul. Młocińska 5/7, tel. 22 636 7770, open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-16:00 Lovely, clean lines make this one of the best places to invest in good furniture and statement accessories for the home.

Coqlila ul. Lentza 20 (Wilanów), tel. 22 651 6884, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-16:00, www.coqlila.pl Home products with a marked provincial French style. Among the offer are fabrics, fragrances, furniture and kitchenware. ego&eco ul. Nowy Świat 35, tel. 22 826 2512, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 12:00-17:00, www.egoeco.eu Stocks everything from unique handmade jewellery to pure linen hand towels, traditional honey and organic soaps. Combines style with an eco-philosophy.

Galeria 2 Deco ul. Wilcza 71, tel. 22 621 2420, www.2deco. pl A small yet concise collection of brilliant home furnishings that combine the classic with contemporary at fair prices. Special orders and consulting also available.

Mokotowska 71 ul. Mokotowska 71, tel. 22 629 0511, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00, www.mokotowska71.pl Offering creations by Belgian and French designers, this shop just screams elegance, beauty and style.

MOOMO ul. Marynarska 15, tel. 22 360 4389, open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-15:00, www.moomo.pl Fun furniture styles and innovative products. There are products from designers Joseph Joseph as well as a range of prestigious Scandinavian nd European brands, among whose number are Marimeko, Muuto, Kähler, Normann Copenhagen and Design House Stockholm.

Numero Uno ul. Grzybowska 4, tel. 22 620 0049, www.

84

WARSAW INSIDER | APRIL 2014

numerouno.pl Exclusive furniture and fittings with brands including Poggenpohl, Presotto Italia, Calia Italia, EGO zeroventiquattro, Masiero, Bang & Olufsen and Porsche.

Red Onion ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 817 1339, open Mon-Sat 9:00-20:00; Sun 9:00-18:00, www.redonion.pl Their new internet shopping site makes it even easier to indulge, whatever your budget.

Red Poppy ul. Lekarska 9, tel. 516 894 4306, www. redpoppy.pl. (open by appointment only) Being the first hand-printing design studio in Poland, they focus primarily on making one-of-a-kind wallpapers as well curtains, lampshades, and cushions. And a good product it is: a series of Justyna Medoń’s patterns won the 2012 Must Have Prize at the Łódź Design Festival.

Secret Life (of Things) ul. Dąbrowskiego 15A, tel. 600 486 582 or 509 852 617, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00, www.secretlife.pl An ‘eco lifestyle concept store’ full of bio-friendly scents, cosmetics, hand-made trinkets and housewares, rustic furnishings and detox teas. And it’s the multi-colored tins that greet you at the door, all of them crying out ‘drink me’. Check the prestigious porcelain

by Kristoff, stock up on Madara cosmetics, or snap up a pair of handmade shoes.

Take a Nap ul. Mysia 3 This two floor shop is full of bedtime accessories like comfy sheets, pillows, comforters and blankets, plus fun bits of furniture that merge the modern with a country living twist. Downstairs there’s a broader selection of bed frames, couches and mattresses.

Velt ul. Próżna 12, www.velt.pl Beautiful familyrun glassware store whose pieces include the Leda lamp, awarded an honorable mention in the prestigious 2012 Red Dot Awards.

SHOPPING MALLS Arkadia Al. Jana Pawła II 82, tel. 22 323 6767, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00, www.arkadia.com.pl Galeria KEN Center/E. Leclerc (Ursynów)

ul. Ciszewskiego 15, tel. 22 389 8600, open Mon-Thur 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. www.kencenter.pl Galeria Mokotów ul. Wołoska 12, tel. 22 541 4141, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00, www.galeriamokotow.com.pl Klif ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4500, open Mon-Sat 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:0020:00. www.klif.pl Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has everything from the excellent Bomi supermarket to top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko.

Plac Unii ul. Puławska 2, tel. 22 204 0499, open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00, www.placunii.pl Warsaw’s latest mall counts Armani Jeans, Liu-Jo and Pandora amongst its upmarket tenants.

Mysia 3 ul. Mysia 3, tel. 603 767 574, open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00; Sun 12:00-18:00, www. mysia3.pl Hip and high-end department store with units such as NYCity (DKNY, Donna Karan), Berries & Co. (Ice Watch, Triwa, Ike Milano), UEG, My Paris and Take a Nap selling great pieces from both established and upcoming designers.

Targówek (Praga) ul. Głębocka 15, open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00, www.atrium-targowek.pl Vitkac Wolf Bracka Vitkac, ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7313, open Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00; Sun 11:00-18:00, www.likusconceptstore.pl Poland’s premier address for designer tags – you won’t find more designer labels per sq/m anywhere else. Money spenders inc. Jimmy Choo, Paul Smith, Stella McCartney, Jil Sander, Gucci, Bottega, Yves Saint Laurent, etc…

Wola Park (Wola) ul. Górczewska 124, tel. 22 533-4000, open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:0020:00, www.wolapark.com Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59, tel. 22 222 2200, open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00, www. zlotetarasy.pl Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Jatomi Health and Fitness Club.

Reviews: Ethnographic Museum 85

CHILDREN

for past picks visit: www.warsawinsider.pl

ACTIVITIES 85 / CAFES 88 /EDUCATION 86 /SHOPS 88

Insider’s Pick

ACTIVITIES Barwy Muzyki ul. Niecała 14, tel. 22 188 18 27, www. barwymuzyki.pl This informal music school, with highly qualified teachers experienced in the Colour Strings program, acknowledges not every child will be a professional musician but that playing, listening and singing to music is an asset to their development. Group or individual lessons on piano, violin, guitar, cello and flute for 6-12yrs.

Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. 22 596 41 00, open Tue-Fri 9:00-6:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-7:00, www.kopernik.org.pl A brilliant array of science-inspired attractions that prove as stimulating for parents as they are for the kids. Check out Galeria BZZZ, an area designated for children up to six. In order to keep numbers manageable, expect entry times to be staggered.

Ethnographic Museum ul. Kredytowa 1, www.ethnomuseum.pl

PHOTOGRAPH BY GILL BOELMAN-BURROWS

P

oland is a country that still holds strong to its traditions. In March they burn and free the marzenna to embrace spring time and then focus on one of the most important celebrations of all, Easter. When I first witnessed the masses of people queuing outside the church, waiting for their basket of eggs, bread, kiełbasa and wine to be blessed, I think I gasped in shock. To this day I still marvel at this level of commitment to tradition being passed on through the generations. My daughter recently turned eight and she has many questions about these traditions and celebrations. So I took her to the Ethnographic Museum for all the answers…

The renovations are complete and I must say that for the small entrance fee this might just be the best value for money in Warsaw – not to mention my favorite family day out.

Connected to the super eco café is now a bright and light space that is called the Children’s Museum. Here kids can try on traditional clothes, play with wooden toys and instruments, draw and read thoughtfully selected books. It is also the area where children’s birthday parties are held. I highly recommend this if your child wishes to invite the whole class!

The museum itself has been cleverly reorganized over four rooms. All texts are translated into English and despite the museums dedication to historic tradition the abundance of modern day interactive installations is right on the ball for today’s high-tech kids. Forget the chocolate egg, this place is pure eye candy! Rows of traditional costumes line the walls, there are shelves full of decorated eggs and drawer after drawer can be opened to admire intricate lacework. Then there’s a bright yellow corridor incased by wooden musical instruments and covered in ear phones, which poke out like wriggly worms from the walls, giving the listener an opportunity to hear traditional folk music. Personally, I recommend visiting the proper museum first, as it will intrigue your child’s imagination. Then, when they enter the children’s museum, the thrill of trying on clothes they have just seen in glass cases and playing with instruments they just heard becomes all the more rewarding. (GBB)

Cukier Lukier ul. Emilii Plater 10, tel. 605 660 005, open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00; Sat-Sun 10:0018:00, www.cukierlukier.pl Confectionary making courses and displays that attract kids of ALL ages.

Fundacja Atelier ul. Foksal 11, 22 826 8813 or 22 826 9589, open Mon-Fri 10:00- 20:00, Sat 9:30-20:30, www.atelier.org.pl Situated in an atmospheric 19th century building this foundation organizes affordable/flexible workshops to develop and inspire art education and creative skills (painting/drawing/sculpture/art history) for children, young people and adults.

HulaKula ul. Dobra 56/66, tel. 22 552 74 00, open Mon-Tue 12:00-24:00; Wed 12:00-1:00; Fri 12:00-3:00; Sat 10:00-4:00; Sun 10:0024:00, www.hulakula.com.pl Bowling alley and soft indoor playground: heaven for kids and hell for grown-ups! Children love to climb, explore and slide into large ball pools. Parents hate the lack of daylight and fast food menu.

Little Chef ul. Bałuckiego 30/1, tel. 501 093 691,

facebook.com/warsawinsider

85

CHILDREN www.littlechef.pl (visit for more information) Cooking classes for children age 3-16. Groups for younger children age 4-10 and Junior Chef courses age 11-16. Kids cook-and-eat healthy meals. Great fun! Classes in English and Polish, Mon-Sat. Little Gym ul. Bruzdowa 56, tel. 22 842 0728, www. thelittlegym.pl Expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-to-child ratio, and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. Not only a great place for children, but tailored to a comfortable and relaxing stay for parents as well.

Manufatura Cukierów ul. Tamka 49 (enter from Ordynacka), open Mon-Fri 11:00-18:00; Sat 11:00-17:30; Sun 13:00-17:30, tel. 692 888 751, www. manufaktura-cukierkow.pl Sweet making courses in a confectionary factory! Lessons are conducted in Polish, though enthusiasm is more important than a mastery of the language.

Mums & Tots www.mumsandtots.pl A volunteer group for mums (and dads) of all nationalities – coffee mornings, play groups, art and music classes and nights out for parents; the list is endless.

For more details, as well as their newsletter and schedule check their web.

Warsaw Zoo ul. Ratuszowa 1/3, tel. 22 619 4041, open Mon-Sun 9:00-18:00, www.zoo.waw.pl The hippopotami now have an indoor and outdoor pool, the gorillas a new pavilion, and the arrival of a shark means it now has an ‘aquarium’.

EDUCATION PRESCHOOLS

American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel.

22 702 85 00, www.aswarsaw.org ASW provides an American-styled educational program to students aged 4 and 5. The curriculum offers a rich, meaningful and balanced educational experience through age-appropriate activities. For further information and/ or to visit our school, contact: admissions@ aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00.

The British School Early Years Centre ul. Dąbrowskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel.

22 646 7777, british@thebritishschool.pl, www.thebritishschool.pl The British School provides special classes from pre-nursery aged 30 months to 6 years old. Children at the Early Years Centre move on to our Primary and Secondary schools at Limanowskiego 15.

The Canadian School of Warsaw – Preschool School Unit ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, preschool@canadianschool.pl The preschool branch of The Canadian School of Warsaw offers a bilingual environment based on the International Baccalaureate Program PYP for 3-6 year olds enriched with foreign languages and extra activities. Serving the Warsaw community since 2000, they’re now found on new premises 100m from Mokotów’s Dreszera Park and 300m away from Ogródek Jordanowski. All children are welcome, though available space is limited. For further info, tours and school visits call or email.

86

ntitled-5 1

WARSAW INSIDER | APRIL 2014 2/14/14 6:26:53 PM

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations)

Warsaw Montessori School ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www.warsawmontessori. edu.pl Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have 3 green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy.

Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. Call to make an appointment to tour any of the 3 schools.

Ecole Antoine de SaintExupery ul. Nobla 16, tel. 22 616 14 99, www.ecole-montessori.pl The preschool is located in the Saska Kępa district and provides a Montessori curriculum in French for children aged from 18 months to 6 years old.

The English Playhouse ul. Pływiańska 14a & ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 22 843 9370, office open 8:00-16.00, www.theenglishplayhouse.com The English Playhouse functions in the quiet, green residential district of Mokotów, next to Królikarnia Park. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts

children from 12 months till six years old. Now with an additional location in Wilanów which includes a new, purpose-built pre-school building with a huge garden for children up to six years of age. For info call Agnieszka Weston on 604 464 333 or email: office@ theenglishplayhouse.com.

Maple Tree Montessori ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/ Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, www. mapletreemontessori.pl Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). Find them located in the Wilanów district of Warsaw, in a house safely nestled into the end of a quiet street.

Trilingual Pre-school and Nursery “Three Languages” Center ul. Karowa 14/16 lok 6 (3-6 year olds); ul. Cicha 5 lok 1 (1-2 year olds), open Mon-Fri 7:30-18:30, tel. 517 872 682, www.3languages.pl The only trilingual pre-school and nursery teaching English, Spanish and Polish through total language immersion. All educators are native speaker

pre-school teachers. The comprehensive curriculum follows American, Spanish and Polish curriculum standards. The pre-school was awarded European Language Label in 2012.

SCHOOLS American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, www. aswarsaw.org ASW is a premier collegepreparatory international school that offers a PK-12 curriculum, including the IB Diploma Program in Grades 11 and 12. Students are inspired and challenged every day by experienced and dedicated teachers, who provide enriching learning opportunities in a world class facility. For further information and/ or to visit our school contact: admissions@ aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00.

The British School ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, open 8:00-16:00, british@thebritishschool. pl, www.thebritishschool.pl Top-ranking private school in Warsaw providing outstanding education based on the British system.

The Canadian School of Warsaw – Middle and High School Unit ul. Olimpijska 11, tel. 600 247 655, www. canadian-school.pl Provides a continuation of

facebook.com/warsawinsider

87

CHILDREN IB education for 11-15 year olds. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create a perfect learning and creative thinking environment. For further info, tours and school visits call or email.

The Canadian School of Warsaw – Primary School ul. Bełska 7, tel. 692 411 573, admission@canadianschool.pl, www.canadian-school.pl The Canadian School of Warsaw provides a continuation of IB(International Baccalaureate)based education for 6-11 year olds. Highly qualified, international staff, challenging materials and a friendly atmosphere provide an optimal setting for the highest standard of education. Extra-curricular activities include visual arts (Bob the Builder, ceramics/pottery, art studio), music lessons(piano, guitar, choir, sports (capoeira, karate, judo, soccer club, swimming, therapeutic gymnastics), foreign languages (Spanish, Italian, German) and more.

Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupery ul. Nobla 16, tel. 22 616 14 99, www.saintexupery.pl Established in 1994, the Antoine de Saint-Exupery preschool and school provides a French curriculum for children aged from 3 to eleven years old in a welcoming family atmosphere. Highly

qualified native French-speaking teachers.

International American School ul. Dembego 18, tel. 22 649 1440, 649 1442, Open Mon-Fri 8:00-16:00, www.ias.edu.pl, email: secretary@ias.edu.pl The International American School of Warsaw provides pre-Kindergarten through 12th grade education based on a dual diploma system for IB and Polish curricula. Accredited by the Polish Ministry of Education, Northwest Association of Accredited Schools and IB Organization.

Kid’s Academy Primary & Pre-School ul. Arbuzowa 33D (Wilanów), tel. 510 077 979 or 603 798 297, open 7:30-18.00, ul. Łąkowa 38 (Konstancin), tel. 506 021 038 or 501 205 080, Open 7:30-17:30, www.kidsacademy. com.pl A Private English - Polish School which provides an excellent early educational program for children from ages 2.5 - 5 years old and at the Primary School, from Grade 0.

Combining elements of both the Polish and British curriculum, the focus is on creating a positive and vibrant learning environment.

They’re also proud of their large playground and variety of healthy foods.

Warsaw Montessori School ul. Szwoleżerów 4, tel. 22 841 3908, sylvia@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www. warsawmontessori.edu.pl Focuses on the Montessori curriculum with an education based on the integration of conceptual learning and real-life experiences.

CAFES Fiku Miku ul. Zwycięzców 32, tel. 692 448 112, open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-20:00, www.fikumikucafe.pl This small, jolly cafe is dedicated to children. The focus is on films and creative workshops. Designer Polish toys are on sale alongside a healthy menu, and fresh cake selection. Check FB for updates as this café closes for private birthday parties. .

Kredkafe al. Wyzwolenia 14, tel. 22 622 1561 or 502 683 246, open 10:00-20:00. www.kredkafe. pl The interiors look great, bright and cheerful with cute cartoon sketches and an entire playroom complete with toys, stuffed animals and a playhouse. There is even a mini-theater where the kids can put on puppet shows.

Bathrooms, of course, have baby-change facilities. The brainchild of two women with experience in hospitality and pedagogy, part of the idea of Kredkafe was to create a teaching space.

SHOPS Bimbus ul. Wilcza 69, tel. 22 628 5140, open 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-14:00. www.bimbus. com.pl Accessories, clothes, furniture and toys for parents who pamper their child with nothing but the best. Brands include Tartine et Chocolat, Quax, Woodwork and Theophile & Patachou.

Endo www.endo.pl Endo is the original home of quality children’s wear that embraced great design by Polish artists and accompanied it with Polish slogans. Much of the materials used are organic, hardwearing and wash well. .

Lullaby Multiple locations, www.lullaby.pl Jam packed with funky design and quirky gifts for your little ones. However, the exquisite clothing and designer labels do come with a hefty price tag.

Mimbla ul.Mokotowska 51/53, tel. 22 629 3065, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-14:00.

Exclusively for kids on Warsaw’s most exclusive shopping street it’s an Aladdin’s cave of quality toys and Polish/English books. Get your gift wrapped here and both mum and child will be happy even before opening it.

88

WARSAW INSIDER | APRIL 2014

Reviews: Blow Up Hall 5050 89 / Plus:

* 2 updates

LIFESTYLE

for past picks visit: www.warsawinsider.pl

ACCOMMODATION 90 / HEALTH & BEAUTY 90 / MEDICAL 92 / POLISH FOR FOREIGNERS 92 / RELOCATION COMPANIES 90

“ I’ve never taken bad LSD but the effects must be like being in that corridor ”

Insider’s Pick

I

t’s nice to look nice but beauty should be more than skin deep. Blow Up Hall 5050 bills itself as “an interactive art piece, comprising a restaurant and bar along with a hotel” and certainly looks amazing, but does have drawbacks. The first of those is the room key: there isn’t one. Instead the receptionist, who doesn’t have anything as ugly as a desk, hands you an iPhone which guides you to your door (mere numbers on doors having been rejected in favour of TV screens) and unlocks it. Great, until the battery dies; then you need to go back to the receptionist to get a charger (you can’t call them: there’s no phone in the room). Then you need to go back again to ask where a socket might be hidden.

BUH5050 is designed to look superb but very little thought has gone into making it good to stay in. The first “Petite Boutique” room the Mrs & I were offered featured

a toilet within touching distance of the beautiful pillows on the bed; that isn’t necessarily a problem, but is when there’s a 2cm gap between the toilet door and the door-frame and you’re dining at the Taj India (home to Poznan’s worst vindaloo).

The replacement room looked divine apart from the bathroom: instead of one bathroom the lavatory and the shower were housed separately in what would have made ideal wardrobes for dwarves

who don’t have many clothes. But at least those doors appeared to close (pity about the shower door letting water flood past) and the window offered a lovely view of a plant pot and a brick wall. That said, a brick wall is far nicer to look at than the corridor outside the room: I’ve never taken really bad LSD but the effects must be much like being stuck in that corridor.

The good news is that the staff in the gorgeous hotel bar have been highly trained by cocktail legend Mr Daniel Undhammer (formerly of Porto Praga and Essence) and are thus capable of making drinks so good you’re actually pleased to be at Blow Up Hall; we spent more on cocktails than the room. The problem comes when you need to make space for more drinks: your WC options are either down the three flights of slippery (but magnificent) stairs to the lobby or nipping into the Stary Browar shopping/leisure complex the hotel is attached to. Choosing the latter, I got lost and stumbled into a night-club which had time-warped back from hell during the mid90s: lots of UV lights and people wearing white tops and stone-washed jeans.

There are surely worse hotels in Poland than this, but it’s hard to think of one that’s more bizarre. Part hotel, part avant-garde experiment, staying here is certainly an experience, although perhaps not one you’ll want to repeat in a hurry. (CS) Blow Up Hall 5050 ul. Kościuszki 42, Poznań, tel.

500 161 671, www.blowuphall5050.com

facebook.com/warsawinsider

89

LIFESTYLE ACCOMMODATION HOTELS IN WARSAW 5-Star Hotels

Bristol Hotel ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1000, www.hotelbristolwarsaw.pl

Sheraton ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6100, www.sheraton.pl

H15 Boutique Apartments ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 553 8700, www.h15boutiqueapartments.com

Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888. www.radissonblu.com/hotel-warsaw

Hilton Warsaw ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555 or 800 44 11 482, www.hilton.com Hyatt Regency Warsaw ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, warsaw.regency@hyatt.com, www.warsaw.regency.hyatt.com InterContinental ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com Mamaison Le Régina Hotel Warsaw ul. Kościelna 12, tel. 22 531 6000, www.mamaison.com Marriott Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 6306, www.warsawmarriott.com

The Rialto Boutique Hotel ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8700, www.rialto.pl

90

WARSAW INSIDER | APRIL 2014

Sofitel Victoria ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8011, www.orbis.pl Westin Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, www.westin.pl

apartments

InterContinental ul. Emili Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com Long and short stay apartments provided by the hotel of the same name. Perks included are the same as those received by hotel guests: i.e. access to the top floor pool, room service, maid service etc.

Vision Apartments Al. Jerozolimskie 81/22, tel. 22 292 8888, www.visionapartments.eu Founded in Switzerland, Vision specialize in the rental

of high-quality furnished apartments and are known for their commitment to service and style. Having evolved into Switzerland’s market leader in furnished living, the company is now in the process of establishing footholds throughout Europe with a presence in Berlin, Geneva, Munich, Warsaw and Vienna. Find their Warsaw apartments in Platinum Towers on Grzybowska.

RELOCATION COMPANIES Express Relocations ul. Szyszkowa 35/37, tel. 22 878 3539, fax 22 878 35 42, www.expressrelocations.com Euro Move International Movers ul. Kineskopowa 1, Piaseczno, tel. 22 716 5566, www.euromove.pl AGS Warsaw ul. Julianowska 37, Piaseczno, tel. 22 702 1072, www.agsmovers.com Move One Relocations ul. Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 8160, fax. 22 630 8166, www.moveonerelo.com Also immigration assistance, fine art shipping, pet transport and consulting services.

HEALTH & BEAUTY FITNESS

*

Pure Jatomi Fitness Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59 (level 3, opposite McDonald’s),

BROUGHT TO YOU BY VILLA NOVA DENTAL CLINIC

THE HOLLYWOOD SMILE

Located in a peaceful, elegant and safe neighbourhood, the Villa Nova Dental Clinic is one of Europe’s most modern dental clinics.

W

e see patients from all over the world. In fact, you may even find yourself identifying some of our high-profile celebrity clients in the waiting room. Patients are taken care of by the best specialists, who boast outstanding scientific and medical qualifications, experience and a warm, caring attitude. The clinic offers a full range of services, including aesthetic dentistry treatment and orthodontic procedures that utilize state-of-the-art technologies and world-class medical diagnostic equipment.

Aesthetic dentistry – an area of dentistry aimed at improving the appearance of the teeth and face – was created in response to the growing demand for a beautiful and snowwhite smile. The clinic offers as many as eight methods of teeth whitening.

Modern orthodontics is not only about monitoring the development of teeth and face and correcting misalignments in the teeth and facial bones. Effective orthodontic treatment delays facial ageing, ensures correct and improved pronunciation, easier cleaning of the teeth, as well as better chewing (which leads to a better functioning of the digestive system). Additionally, the treatment can eliminate acute headaches related to the temporomandibular joint dysfunction.

Sometimes well placed teeth demand the correction of their shape. Ceramic veneers are the best solution. This procedure allows for getting ideal teeth in ten days, giving

the effect of a ‘Hollywood smile’. Another important department at our clinic concerns children’s dentistry: if we take care of our children’s teeth effectively, we will spare them complex and costly treatment in adult life.

We are capable of changing your life, because when you improve your smile, you will feel completely different: better, more beautiful and more confident.

VILLA NOVA Dental Clinic ul. Marconich 3 02-954 Warszawa www.villanova.pl

facebook.com/warsawinsider

91

LIFESTYLE tel. 22 379 7777, www.jatomifitness.pl The largest fitness chain in Poland, Pure Jatomi’s clubs follow the latest trends and are fitted with new generation machines. Try training classes that utilize TRX cages, or swing by for innovative Jukari or Bokwa classes. Also at Blue City, Galeria Renova, Sadyba Best Mall, Promenada, Zodiak and Targówek.

the highest pool in Europe offers a glorious panorama of the city. Annual prices from zł. 4,200 (access from Mon-Fri 6 a.m. to 5 p.m.), zł. 5,760 (all times), and zł. 8,350 for Diamond Membership (includes two personal training sessions per month, a complimentary weekend at the InterContinental, restaurant discounts, etc.).

RiverView Wellness Centre ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental), tel. 22 328 86 40, www.riverview.com.pl Top-class facilities and equipment, private instructors and small classes. The view from

SPAS & SALONS

Hair a Porter ul. Belwederska 23 (Hyatt Hotel, level -1), tel.

22 558 1555, open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat 9:00-17:00, www.hair-a-porter.pl A staunch

favorite of the ex-pat crowd, Hair a Porter offer the ultimate hair experience utilizing expert staff and top-quality products.

Sungate Beauty & Spa Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 2, tel. 517 012 880, open daily 10:00-24:00, www. spasungate.pl A feast for all five senses, Sungate offers a wide range of massages, face and body treatments, manicure and pedicure, as well as a VIP room for couples.

MEDICAL MEDICAL PRIVATE CLINICS

Lux Med Medical Clinics Various locations, see website for details: www.luxmed.pl Melitus ul. Słowackiego 12, tel. 22 833 7438, mob.

603 060 621, www.melitus.pl Specializing in dermatology, surgery, phlebology, endocrinology, gynecology and internal medicine. The clinic is equipped with the latest and most innovative medical equipment and employs several renowned clinicians.

*

Warszawskie Centrum Zdrowia ul. Nowogrodzka 76, tel. 22 857 3014, www. wcz.waw.pl Specializes in the prevention, early detection and treatment of cardiovascular disease.

POLISH FOR FOREIGNERS

Edu & More ul. Nowogrodzka 44 / 7, tel. 22 622 14 41, www.polishonlinenow.com Polish Language School incorporating modern teaching methods and reasonable prices. Intensive & regular Polish courses for beginners. Business & everyday Polish. Preparatory courses for the state exam as well as for the international ECL certificate in Polish. Morning, afternoon & evening classes.

Klub Dialogu Gałczyńskiego 4, lok 903, tel. 664 788 004, www.klubdialogu.pl Individual and group courses held either on-site or at the venue of your choice. Tailor-made packages inc. both intensive and weekend courses.

92

WARSAW INSIDER | APRIL 2014

CLASSIFIEDS

w W a r s a www.city-tour.com.pl

(A)pollonia Direction: Krzysztof Warlikowski Cast: M. Cielecka, E. Dałkowska, M. Hajewska-Krzysztofik, R. Jett, M. Ostaszewska, M. Popławska, A. Radwan-Gancarczyk, A. Chyra, W. Kalarus, M. Kalita, Z. Malanowicz, A. Nawojczyk, J. Poniedziałek, M. Stuhr, T. Tyndyk/P. Polak

11th – 14th of April 2014 Subtitled in English

Kabaret warszawski Direction: Krzysztof Warlikowski Cast: S. Celińska, M. Cielecka, E. Dałkowska, M. HajewskaKrzysztofik, M. Ostaszewska, M. Popławska, C. Bardouil, A. Chyra, B. Gelner, W. Kalarus, R. Klijnstra, Z. Malanowicz, P. Polak, J. Poniedziałek, M. Stuhr

Yellow Double-Decker Bus

Invites you to experience a panoramic tour of tourist attractions of the capital of Poland, Warsaw, in a relaxing and comfortable way.

Traveling over the course of approximately 1,5 hour, a double-decker bus will take you past many beautiful and interesting places of Warsaw, such as its interesting districts, palaces and churches, monuments and museums, parks and historical cemeteries, as well as the Jewish historical sites.

A GPS 12 language audio-guide, will give explanations and accompany you to make your ride a more adventurous, exciting and an unforgettable one.

Excellent Hop on Hop off and one trip service operates every day all year round.

5% DISCOUNT with this ad

Line approved by municipal authorities.

www.city-tour.com.pl

+48 500 033 414

25th – 27th of April 2014 Subtitled in English

Nowa Warszawa Best songs about Warsaw performed by Stanisława Celińska, Bartek Wąsik & Royal String Quartet

30th of April 2014 Nowy Teatr Madalińskiego 10/16 22 379 33 33

www.nowyteatr.org Media partners

Media partners

Co-financed by

bow@nowyteatr.org ebilet.pl bilety24.pl Nowy Teatr is financed by

Tel: +48 22 702 10 72

Stadion Narodowy

Żaryna Żaryna

Kulskiego Kulskiego

ChoCdhkod łyiaKłyam kieicwzaic BiaB iew Kaiem za ńień

WHY WARSAW?

Paul, teacher Nothing beats rolling into a taxi only to realize, about half-way through the journey, the taxi driver is more drunk than you. I was already half asleep when I realized he was swigging from a can of lager. And that he had a gun! Hey, it was 1993 – all sorts happened then!

Joe, recruitment consultant Best thing I’ve seen AND heard was the Fan Zone during Euro 2012. And it didn’t get any better than when Poland equalized against Russia. I was there when England beat Germany 5-1 away, but that didn’t even come close in terms of atmosphere. It felt like an earthquake when Poland scored. A minute longer with those celebrations and the sky would have caved in. You can tell Putin to stick that in his effing pipe!

Dave, retired Remember Bar Below? Best pub Warsaw ever had. I saw all sorts go on during its existence, but nothing beats the time I walked in there on Boxing Day and saw one of the regulars with a bottle of tabasco banged up his bare backside – I later learned it was for a 10 złoty bet. An Australian looked round at me and said, “I’ve worked on oil rigs for 30 years, but nothing prepared me for that.”

This issue the Insider confronts six ex-pats and asks them about the weird and wonderful things they’ve seen around town…

Sarah, web designer I returned from my Christmas holidays early one year – it’d been a horrible trip: an undercooked turkey, a fist fight over Monopoly, you name it.

So I returned to -20 Warsaw with real relief. I walked into my flat, shagged out from a delayed flight, only to find my landlord splayed and snoozing on the sofa in nothing but these big, baggy Y-fronts. There was man debris all around him: half-eaten sandwiches, cans of beer, God knows. What do you do in a situation like that? I roused him gently and he shrugged, calm as you like, explaining he just fancied getting away from his wife for a few days while I was away.

96

WARSAW INSIDER | APRIL 2014

Ian, finance Does seeing the look on my downstairs neighbors count?

I got home one Sunday at noon, and staggered to my door only to find I’d left the damn thing open the whole time I was out clubbing. Bugger. Oh well, so I blunder in ready to jump into bed when I think, bloody hell, I don’t remember buying that sofa. And that TV has definitely got smaller.

Before I could fathom what had happened I turned to see a family sat around the dinner table staring open-mouthed at me. It wasn’t the best time to introduce myself as the new English bloke from upstairs. Nowadays I make sure I’m opening the right door.

PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

I CAN’T BELIEVE MY EYES!

Ed, translator This is the strangest thing I’ve heard, not seen. My wife had been going on about how our flat in Muranów was haunted, and to be fair, there’d been some weird occurrences – stuff like pictures falling down, TV turning on, etc.

Anyway, one day we were looking for that plastic thing you stick in the washing machine and couldn’t find it anywhere, even though it’s absolutely always where it should be: by the washing machine. I wisecracked the ghost had stolen it and we laughed – three minutes later, just as we’ve sat down, there’s a huge big clatter from the bedroom, like something dropping from a great height. I go in to check what it is and it’s only this washing machine thing. It’s sat there in the middle of the floor still wobbling from landing.

Freaked me out…