Warsaw Insider # 185 January 2012

Travel: Poznań

Ursus: Rise & Fall page 14

page 20

Bracka Uncovered page 18

Who’s Who of Polish Arts

page 12

INDEKS 334901 ISSN:1643-1723

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JANUARY 2012

THE HANGOVER

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et’s all agree on one thing – January sucks. Santa’s gone, the lights are off and the party’s truly over; all that’s left is the debris of debauchery – some chicken bones under the sofa and bits of fireworks in the oven. Welcome to the hangover.

But take strength from this: it’s not just you that’s feeling glum, but Warsaw itself. January is a month when the city catches flu and assumes a look close to death. At least that was the case. Strange things are afoot, because what was once a grey, grotty town (in this month, at least) has changed beyond recognition. Even better, it appears at press time that mad weather controller sitting in the sky has saved cranking his big, shiny snow lever for January.

Now four months of the stuff drives me bananas, but let’s face it, who doesn’t delight in seeing the first snowfall of the year? Old Town under a fluffy pile of snow looks magical; the celestial fallout from a pillow fight in heaven. And the anticipated arrival of the cold front doesn’t just add an aesthetic angle to the city, it lends new direction to your free time; while Warsaw isn’t Aspen, it does have some skiing – this issue the peerless Mr. Ingham checks out the options.

Elsewhere, Christian Swindells unravels the absurd story behind the rise and fall of Ursus, while Kit F. Chung takes you on a journey to the heart of Polish art. And speaking of journeys, we’ve got a cracking one for you – Poznań, a great escape in more ways than one.

Personally though, I’m more of a pipe and monster slippers man nowadays. That’s why this January you’ll find me on the sofa, wallowing in the hangover with a pile of books to my side. Check what’s on the reading list on p. 22.

See you next month...

Alex Webber

awebber@valkea.com

PHOTOGRAPH TOP SHUTTERSTOCK. BOTTOM THREE BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Insider’s TOP 3

This issue Kevin Demaria, the Insider’s Art Director, picks his top 3 local spots. A native New Yorker, Kevin has worked for Gourmet, Time Inc., Martha Stewart and Architectural Digest.

Enjoying his second Polish winter, he remains baffled how Poles get through these long, gloomy nights.

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Ho-Lo Nowy Świat 44 While visting Warsaw for the first time in 2005, I met a friend who had a Ho-Lo bag and she made me a believer by how she kept going on about how much she loves her bag and are really affordable. I like the graphic style of the bags which are made from recycled advertising banners.

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La Vanille ul. Krucza 16/22 I love this cafe/bakery’s modern interior which makes me feel like I am stepping into a posh lobby of a small boutique hotel. While the prices are not cheap, this can be an advantage from eating too many. Staying for a delicious coffee is rewarding with their great selection of magazines to read.

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Yummy ul. Krucza 16/22 (entrance on Wilcza 20) Just around the corner from La Vanille is my local place for Thai food. I always share the duck appetizer with plum sauce with my wife when we order in. She loves the Phos while I always go for my usual Kurczak Pad Thai drizzled with sriracha sauce.

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what’s inside:

JANUARY 2012 LISTINGS

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07 Insider’s Pick Aussie Pink Floyd 08 Calendar Music, art and happenings around town 10 Museums Top cultural institutes 10 Insider’s Pick Citadel 11 The Screening Room Film openings

FEATURES

COLUMNS

12 W ho’s Who of Polish Art The big four heavy hitters of Polish painting 14 Travel: Poznań The fun side of Poland’s briefcase capital 18 Take a Street An inside look at the secrets of Bracka 20 Ursus Factory The rise and fall of Poland’s biggest white elephant 22 Winter Reading The essential booklist for this January 26 Sports: Skiing Hit the powder on the hidden slopes of Warsaw

Editor-in-chief

Art Director

Editor

Editorial Intern

Publisher Advertising Manager Distribution Manager

01 T he Editor Writes Words of wisdom from our editor-in-chief, as well as the personal Top 3 from the Insider’s Art Director Kevin Demaria 06 Why Warsaw? Journalist and Musican William Roderick Richardson 23 Mum’s The Word Ice Skating in the shadow of the PKiN 25 Relics of the PRL Dinosaur dining and a look at SuperSam 80 The Mayor On the prowl with Warsaw’s premier nightowl

Alex Webber awebber@valkea.com Kevin Demaria kdemaria@valkea.com Agnieszka Jęksa ajeksa@valkea.com Karolina Kalinowska Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com Jowita Malich jmalich@wbj.com Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com

Contributors: Bartosz Bajerski Gill Boelman-Burrows Kit F. Chung David Ingham Maciej Janicki Michał Miszkurka Anna J. Kutor Paula Rewald Laura Klos Sokol

Eating Out

27 I nsider’s Pick Bagno Food & Wine 38 Hot Find Ministerstwo Kawy 53 Top Shop Samira

Going Out

55 Insider’s Pick Znajomi Znajomych

Till You Drop

61 Insider’s Pick Lewanowicz

Lifestyle

65 Insider’s Pick Astanga Yoga 77 Classifieds 78 Warsaw Map and Street Index

Agnieszka Le Nart Christian Swindells Subscription 12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland. Orders can be placed with amichalik@valkea.com, tel. 22 678 9912

Printed by Zakłady Graficzne TAURUS tel. 022 783-6000

VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies. All information ©2012 Warsaw Insider.

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COVER ILLUSTRATION MICHAŁ MISZKURKA, PHOTOGRAPH SHUTTERSTOCK

Arts and Entertainment

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The Insider team were on impeccable behavior to host the eighth annual Best of Warsaw awards party at the end of November. In an evening that registered as an unqualified success, the great and the good of Warsaw gathered at the Korean Cultural Center to learn this year’s winners and losers in an event that made the Oscar’s look tame. Of course, our thanks go out to all those who made the evening such a hands down hit – see you next year!

Massages courtesy of Vertebralia

Drinks courtesy of Theatro

Sushi courtesy of Maguro Sushi

Food courtesy of Le Cedre

Wine courtesy of Joseph’s

Lucky Lotto hopeful

PARTNERS

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AND THE WINNERS ARE...

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‘Kid Friendly’ - Nowa Kuźnia (handed out by Principal Nigel Archdale of The British School) ‘Business Meeting’ - Belvedere ‘Address to Impress’ - Na Zielnej (handed out by Piotr Prasuła from the Association ‘Złote Klucze Concierge Polska’) ‘Gourmet Grocery’ - Marks and Spencer (handed out by Alex Leyden from the American Friends in Warsaw) ‘First Date’ - Qchnia Artystyczna Honorary Award for Work in the Community - Fundacja im. św.

Patryka (handed out by the Ambasador of the Embassy of Canada to Poland in Warsaw, His Excellency Daniel Costello) ‘Cocktails’ - Sense (handed out by Mark Mulrainey from the Professionals in Warsaw) ‘Cafe Culture’ - Cafe 6/12 (handed out by Alia Radford from the Mums and Tots in Warsaw) ‘People Watching’ and ‘Best Newcomer’ - Charlotte ‘Best Sunday Brunch’ - Sheraton (handed out by Veerle Raskin from the American School of Warsaw) ‘Restaurant Design’ - U Kucharzy (handed out by Zofia Chojnacka from the Centre for Contemporary Art Ujazdowski Castle) www.warsawinsider.pl

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WHY WARSAW? me about the city is its history, something I’m familiar with and sympathetic to. It’s recent history alone epitomizes the best and the worst of the 20th Century – aside from Carthage and Atlanta, how many other cities have been purposefully eradicated?

Your work as a journalist has seen you interview some big names. Spill the beans.

I spent the afternoon cycling with Lech Wałęsa once, along with his two bodyguards. He was a decent guy, intelligent, and he didn’t threaten to punch me in the nose like director Peter Greenaway. But that was nothing compared to Bruce Willis. He was a total prima donna when he visited Poland – I mean hey, if you’re such a good actor, why not act like you’re not famous for a change.

You’ve been in some tight fixes, there must have been a time when you thought, “uh-oh, it’s game over.”

I’ve had a few unusual experiences as a writer, but perhaps the most exciting was being chased by the Albanian mafia in Macedonia while doing a story on trafficked prostitutes. I did also cross Taliban territory in a taxi the day after Osama Bin Laden left Jalalabad. That was fun too.

MAN OF HIS WORD

Journalist, musican and “Guerilla Traveler”, William Roderick Richardson spills the beans on Warsaw, Wałęsa and Willis... BY ALEX WEBBER Your first day in Warsaw – tell us about it.

1989 – the day the Berlin Wall came down. I was out here doing a travel piece for a London magazine, and I remember a deep mist and this pungent, industrial smell; kinda’ like coal mixed with onions and garlic. The whole city seemed surreal. There were no billboards, and no real shops – you’d go to a restaurant and they’d have run out of meat. But I loved it. I’d been living in the west all this time and Warsaw felt like an adventure.

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Which places inspire you in Warsaw?

Warsaw itself doesn’t inspire me. I’ve lived in Paris, London, places like that, so Warsaw doesn’t compare. But what continues to inspire Wa r s a w I n s i d e r : 0 1 - 3 1 J a n u a r y 2 0 1 2

What’s the best gig you’ve played?

I can’t think of a best gig, but I know the type of gig I like: one where the people dig the music and we seem to reach the people who are there. With the new band, VOA, I enjoy every gig because I really like what we do, and the musicians are great: Robert Brylewski, Maciej Dłużniewski and Amadeusz Krebs. We are also friends. We seem to write well together and have fun whether we’re playing, practicing or just hanging out. I met them all in jam sessions in Warsaw, though of course Robert is a music legend in Poland and abroad having been a prime mover in Kryzys, Armia and Izrael.

Fave author?

My favorite author is Hunter S. Thompson, while Jim Morrison is my favorite singer. Why? Because both of them are as contemporary now as they were when they were working. Both changed the world with talent on a scale that hardly seems possible now. They possessed huge talents to back up the personality cults that grew up around them.

They were cool, and they weren’t bullies except when they went for the powers that be.

What’s the future?

The future, even in the short term, is going to be stranger than we can imagine.

William Roderick Richardson can be found online at www.guerillatraveler.com, performing with his band VOA (facebook.com/VOABand), or in most decent bookstores – look for Wish You Were Here, a collection of short stories penned from the world’s trouble spots.

PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE BY BARTOSZ BAJERSKI, OPPOSITE PAGE COURTESY OF METAL MIND

What’s Warsaw’s best secret?

Its parks and live music scene. So it doesn’t compare to New York and New Orleans, but for a city of its size there are some great venues – Chwila is my favorite, and then there’s Czarna Perła in Wola and Hydrozagadka in Praga.

ARTS AND ENTERTAINMENT Concerts, Events, Museums & Galleries

Insider’s Pick

21 SAT Show The Australian Pink Floyd Show

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elieve it or not, but the TAPFS remain the only Pink Floyd ‘tribute band’ endorsed by David Gilmour himself. In fact, so impressed was DG that he booked these Ozzies to play at his 50th. Praise indeed.

And TAPFS have also won over Floyd’s hard-to-please fans, with one Brit paper, the Daily Mail, even going as far to declare, “they play Pink Floyd better than Pink Floyd.” Formed in 1988, they credit their success to professionalism, obsessive preparation and an almost religious devotion to their work.

Above: TAPFS show at HMV Hammersmith Apollo (London, UK) on July 17th, 2011 This time round they’ve prepared a two hour extravaganza, complete with special effects and visual displays. Officially titled “Exposed in the Light”, the show is directly inspired by the classic PF tune Shine on you Crazy Diamond. So far, that’s all the details that have been released, with TAPFS modestly maintaining there’s still fine tuning to be done. Dubbed ‘pinkredible’ by some sections of the media, their worldwide tour includes stops in Warsaw, Poznań, Katowice and Wrocław. (AJ) Standing room from zł 140, seats from zł 150. Tickets from ebilet.pl.

Torwar, ul. Łazienkowska 6

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ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT 1 SUN Concert New Year’s Concert – Chopin (Koncert Noworoczny – Chopin) Teatr Polonia, ul. Marszałkowska 56, www.teatrpolonia.pl For those who consider listening to Chopin as part of an extravagant hangover cure we recommend this performance by piano master Janusz Olejniczak.

Krystyna Janda will accompany him, reading out fragments of Chopin’s letters.

7 SAT Music with No Limits – Waldemar Malicki and the Philharmonic of Humour

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16 MON

PKiN, Sala Kongresowa, Plac Defilad 1, tel. 22 656 7299, www.kongresowa.pl Pianist and satirist Waldemar Malicki performs his acclaimed cabaret show in the Palace of Culture. The author of 38 albums, Malicki’s show will be broadcast live on TV.

Concert Tarja Turunen Stodoła, ul.Stefana Batorego 10, tel. 22 825 6031, www.stodola.pl The former voice of Nightwish will sing pieces from her What Lies Beneath album. What’s next? A few years of holiday claims Tarja.

Check her before she disappears.

8 SUN Charity Event The Great Christmas Charity Orchestra 2012 (Wielka Orkiestra Świątecznej Pomocy 2012) National Stadium, al. Księcia J. Poniatowskiego 1 and various locations across Poland, wosp.org.pl Jurek Owsiak – the restless brainbox behind one of the biggest charity events in the world – is celebrating his Orchestra’s 20th birthday this year. In that time Owsiak has become a Polish pop culture icon, written a book and raised over $110 million for medical institutions in PL. Join the fund raising by purchasing a heart-shaped sticker on the 8th, and check out the ‘grand finale’ concert at the new national stadium.

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14 SAT Opera Le Nozze di Figaro Teatr Wielki, Plac Teatralny 1, www.teatrwielki.pl Keith Warner is one more leading international opera director who’s been invited to Warsaw by the Polish National Opera. Nozze di Figaro, tailor-made for the Warsaw audience, marks his first dealings with Mozart.

23 MON Concert Dropkick Murphys Stodoła, ul.Stefana Batorego 10, tel. 22 825 6031, www.stodola.pl After Metronomy and Junior Boys in December, now it’s time for these punk rooted rockers from Boston to go mad in Stodoła.

Tickets from www.ebilet.pl

ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF ARTISTS

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EVENT CALENDAR 28 SAT

MEDIA PATRONAGE

Festival Oldschool Festival Warszawa 2012 Stodoła, ul.Stefana Batorego 10, tel. 22 825 6031, www.stodola.pl A whole festival dedicated to punk! Booked to perform are nutters like The Analogs, Deadline, Bulbulators, Vienio and the Way Side Crew. Tickets from zł 39

29 SUN Concert Dubioza Kolektiv and Senk Że Stodoła Club, ul. Stefana Batorego 10, tel. 22 825 6031, www.stodola.pl Reggae, ska, funk, punk, dubstep, electronics – check out how this Bosnian collective mixes it up.

LIVE THIS MONTH 2 MON

Granie Na Żywo – Kumka Olik w Warszawie

3 TUE

No Smoki

9 MON

Bajzel w Warszawie

10 TUE

Delhy Seed

16 MON

D4D w Warszawie

17 TUE

Lostbone, AmetriA & Licorea

23 MON

Waglewski & Łęczycki w Warszawie

24 TUE

Moskwa & Rejestracja

30 MON

Projekt Warszawiak w Warszawie

31 TUE Bracia

28 WED Ballet And the Rain Will Pass Teatr Wielki, Plac Teatralny 1, www.teatrwielki.pl Credited with rescuing Polish ballet from the doldrums, choreographer Krzysztof Pastor invites you to a show specifically tailored for the National Opera. Inspired by Krzysztof Baczyński’s poem, this ballet is themed on the war, more specifically the Warsaw Uprising. However, instead of yet another lecture on martyrdom, viewers can expect a disciplined ballet surprisingly devoid of typically Polish self-pity.

Mikołaj Górecki, whose compositions remain some of the most recognizable in the world, enchants here with a clear energy and an intense rhythm, and even if your Polish is limited, this is a must for all ballet fans. Put simply, it’s an excellently danced story, one bursting with historical, social and political insights. Also on January 29th.

MEDIA PATRONAGE

19 THU Performance Cirque du Soleil Gdańsk, Ergo Arena, ul. Gospody 37, www.cirquedusoleil.com You’ll hear Cirque du Soleil’s artists claiming to have risk-taking built into their DNA – and yes, there might be some truth in that: defying gravity and walking the high wire are their bread and butter. Balanced between circus and theatre, their acrobatic performances combine artistic influences from across the globe, and have won them a loyal world following – to date, over 11 million people have seen them perform. It matters not these Canucks will be prancing in Gdańsk, their daredevil antics are well worth the trip. And with six shows penciled in, you’ve got plenty of chances to see them. Tickets from zł. 125

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ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT museums & galleries Car Museum ul. Warszawska 21 (Otrębusy), tel. 22 758 5067, www.muzuem-motorzyacji.com.pl Approx. 300 vehicles all jumbled together like a broken jigsaw.

Highlights include the ‘79 Pope Mobile, Stalin’s limo and cars used to ferry Marilyn and Elvis.

Other bits and pieces inc. vintage motors, a double decker bus and a US tractor from 1895. Mapped out with little rhyme or reason, it’s a hoarders heaven, with extra oddities numbering WWII debris, a 7TP tank, a red English phone box and a plane... Don’t make sense of it, just enjoy.

Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, www.kopernik.org.pl If you thought the Chopin Museum was space age then just wait till you visit this place.

Interactive, witty and surprising, Copernicus allows visitors to experience an earthquake, blast recyclable objects into space

and become a mystery cracking detective. Galeria BZZZ, designed for children aged up to six, is a must for families, and also ‘The Heavens of Copernicus’, a state-of-the-art planetarium.

CSW ul. Jazdów 2, www.csw.art.pl Situated in a baroque-style castle the center hosts artists from all over the world (Flor Garduno, for instance). The on-site bookshop is of particular interest for artists and intellectuals. Ongoing: Enclave (Enklawa) Illustrates how Kaliningrad in Russia has evolved from living proof of Soviet demagogy into a city leaving its past behind and searching for a new identity. Till January 29th.

The Erotic Museum ul. Grzybowska 3, tel. 22 403 8065, www.muzeumerotyki.com Oh my, where to start. This museum has the lot, from ancient Chinese and Roman erotica, to pre-phwoar Polski pornography.

Then there’s US Army brothel passes, fin-de-siecle condom machines and Eastern teapots

with big phallic bits. Clearly realizing sex sells, they’ve also priced admission at a whopping 30 zlots.

The Fryderyk Chopin Museum in Warsaw Ostrogski Palace, ul. Okólnik 1, www.chopin.museum Recognized as one of the most hi-tech museums in Europe, the world even, computer chip tickets allow visitors the chance to personalize the museum experience as never before. Over 5,000 objects are present, among them his pocket watch, last piano, a lock of hair and even his death mask.

Legia Museum ul. Łazienkowska 6, www.legia.com One for the lads. Aside from silverware affirming Legia’s status, find a vast collection of shirts, pennants and paintings (even part of an old floodlight). Pride of place goes to Legia’s favorite son, 80’s super star Kazimierz Deyna. Ongoing: an exhibition titled Legia on the Continent and

Insider’s Pick Warsaw Citadel Museum ul. Skazańców 25 (enter from ul. Czujna or Brama Straceń), tel. 22 839 2383, www.muzeum-niepodleglosci.pl.

Open Weds-Sun 9:00-16:00.

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ózef Piłsudski is probably the only name many foreigners are familiar with when it comes to Polish political figures from the pre-WWI era. He did jail time in the Warsaw Citadel, itself created by the Russian tsarist occupiers after the failed November Uprising (1830-31). Now converted into a museum, you can visit the cells where Piłsudski and other Polish patriots, inc. Apollo Korzeniowski (father of Joseph Conrad), served their time. While Piłsudski lived to lead an independent Poland, many others were executed. The symbolic crosses on the slope by Brama Straceń commemorate them. The exhibits are in Polish and Russian only, so it’s best to dig up some info on your own before dropping in or pre-book a weekday guided tour. A guide is also handy for explaining the paintings of Aleksander Sochaczewski, who survived over 20 years in Siberia and returned to Poland to paint the horrific scenes he witnessed during his exile. Another section, with English info, focuses on Poles banished to various labour camps in the Soviet Union from 1940 to 1956.

Unlike the Warsaw Uprising Museum, there are no multimedia displays here. But the message is nervegratingly clear in its depiction of the pain, grief and hardship the nation and its citizens endured in the name of independence – just perfect for a gloomy January. (KC)

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a display of letters written to Kazimierz Deyna by his fans.

Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw ul. Pańska 3, www.artmuseum.pl Ongoing: Partners. Photographer and artist around 1970 year - an exhibition telling the story of nine meetings between photographers and the artists, often friends and lovers at the same time. Till January 17th.

Palmiry National Memorial Museum Palmiry, www.palmiry.mhw.pl An excellent multimedia exhibition set next to a cemetery holding the graves of 1,700 Poles executed in the first years of WWII. This museum tells their story, with archival video footage complimented by exhumed exhibits and plenty of background info dealing with the siege and occupation of Warsaw.

Pawiak ul. Dzielna 24/26 What was once a Tsarist prison assumed a doubly sinister function under the Nazis. Some 100,000 Polish political prisoners were held here, 37,000 of which were executed on-site.

Split in two sections, cells are found on one side, while on the other the full story of the invasion and occupation. Of interest, a brilliant interactive display of wartime Warsaw. Ongoing: And life would have to go on. Women in Ravensbrück concentration camp Poster Museum in Wilanów ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 10/16 With a collection that touches the 55,000 mark, here’s the biggest poster museum in the world – and also the original.

Art spans the period from 1892 till 2002, and while the majority is Polish orientated works on display also include those by Dali and Warhol. Ongoing: The point of view of Rambow.

Günter Rambow is one the top poster artists in the world;

ALL PHOTOS COURTESY OF VENDORS

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MUSEUMS, GALLERIES & MOVIES politically involved, his subject matter includes the Vietnam war and the revival of fascism in his home country Germany. Till January 31st.

Museum of Technology Palace of Culture, pl. Defilad 1, www.muzeum-techniki.waw.pl The very opposite of the newfangled Copernicus Centre, here’s a place that embraces the old way of doing things. On show an eccentric – occasionally ludicrous – collection of junk that ranges from 8-bit computers to a German ‘Enigma’ machine.

From January 14th: Reduction Model Making Exhibition.

Warsaw Uprising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, www.1944.pl Cope with the crowds to discover the definitive story of the Uprising. Exhibits range from a full size replica of a liberator plane, to a sewer beneath the cinema screen and a slice of bread preserved from 1944. And don’t miss the ‘City of Ruins’, a five minute 3D film which takes you on an aerial journey over devastated Warsaw.

Outside, check the Nazi bunker behind the office, the panoramic view tower and the original statue of Prince Poniatowski – now a ripped metal hulk.

Zachęta National Art Gallery (Zachęta Narodowa Galeria Sztuki) pl. Małachowskiego 3, www.zacheta.art.pl One of the most famed galleries in the country, with a plethora of international and Polish modern art to peruse. Featuring in the collection are works by Toulouse-Lautrec, Cezanne, Ernst and Picasso, as well as luminaries of the Polish art scene such as Tadeusz Kantor, Alina Szapocznikow, Katarzyna Kozyra and Zbigniew Libera.

Ongoing: A sociological project entitled No, no, no, I hardly ever miss a show. Till January 29th Zacheta Ermutigung by Wolfgang Tillmans, and till February 19th Goshka Macuga’s No Title.

NEED TO KNOW Museum hours (and prices) change way too often for our liking, so check individual websites for the latest story.

Note that most will choose Monday to close, and that many hold ‘visitor days’ once a week whereby admission prices are waived.

screening room

20th

13th

Underworld Awakening (Underworld Przebudzenie) Thriller. USA. Dir. Mans Marlind, with Kate Beckinsale, Charles Dance, Michael Ealy

opening this month:

The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo (Dziewczyna z tatuażem) Thriller. USA, Sweden, Great Britain, Germany. Dir. David Fincher, with Daniel Craig, Stellan Skarsgard, Robin Wright

Carnage (Rzeź) Black comedy. Poland, Germany, France, Spain. Dir. Roman Polanski, with Kate Winslet, Jodie Foster, Christoph Waltz We Need to Talk about Kevin (Musimy porozmawiać o Kevinie) Thriller. Great Britain. Dir. Lynne Ramsay, with Tilda Swinton, John C. Reilly, Ezra Miller

War Horse (Czas wojny) War. USA, Great Britain. Dir. Steven Spielberg, with Benedict Cumberbatch, Tom Hiddleston, Emily Watson

MASSAGE & BEAUTY TREATMENTS DAY SPA WE TAKE CARE OF YOUR BODY Take a break in the heart of the city relax in an oriental atmosphere

27th Weekend (Zupełnie inny weekend) Romance. Great Britain. Dir. Andrew Heigh, with Tom Cullen, Chris New, Laura Freeman

The Darkest Hour (Najczarniejsza godzina) Horror. USA. Dir. Chris Gorak, with Emile Hirsch, Olivia Thirlby, Rachael Taylor

Give us a call or email us: tel. +48 (0) 22 435 9336

kontakt@ oasisspa.pl www.oasisspa.pl

Królewska 2 st. (corner of Krakowskie, near Bristol Hotel) Open: Mon-Sat 10:00- 21:00

10% DisCOUnT WiTh This AD

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ART HISTORY

A WHO’S WHO OF POLISH ART

A beginner’s guide to the big four of Polish art from the 19th to the 20th century. BY KIT F. CHUNG

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The Original Surrealist You’ve probably made eye contact with the bald and bearded Jacek Malczewski (1854-1929) without being aware of it; self-portraits constituted a significant portion of this artist’s output. Not being a shy one, his eyes pierce right back at you as you check him out, like those at the Alegloria Restaurant, where a Malczewski in white attire eyeballs the guests. In his scores of self-portraits, he was flanked by other creatures, mostly female, either human or mythical fauns. But don’t go thinking he was a selfobsessed man in lalaland. Like fellow creative forces from the Partition Years (1795-1918) when Poland was chopped up by neighboring land hoggers, he did his bit to put on canvas the anguish felt by citizens living on occupied home turf. While his contemporaries, such as van Gogh and Gauguin, were doodling sunflowers and exotic natives from far flung islands, Malczewski and his lot were rallying for the resurrection of Poland by wielding the brush.

In his works, you might detect what art critics romanticized as the symbolism of ‘Poland’s aspirations for freedom’ and ‘the search for the truth in life’. Melancholia is a compressed narration of his countrymen’s suffering wrought by a string of crushed uprisings. Death was a leitmotiv. All these would make a rather depressing viewing if not for the subtle surrealism which became more prevalent in his works after 1890. An example is the Vicious Circle (Błędne Koło), where a swirl of characters are trapped in an oscillation from brightness to darkness. Had he been born half-a-century later (and possessed a shorter surname), perhaps the world would have known him, and not Dali, as the master of surrealism? Possibly not, for Malczewski credited much of his out-of-this-world imagination to being a Pole without a state.

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The Historic Painter Looking at the straitlaced techniques of Jan Matejko’s (1838-1893), you would have dated him back to the time of the Old Masters. You also wouldn’t have guessed that he tutored Malczewski. Born with Czech, German and Polish blood, Matejko endured the starving artist gig. Recognition Wa r s a w I n s i d e r : 0 1 - 3 1 J a n u a r y 2 0 1 2

ILLUSTRATION BY MARYSIA MASTALERZ

dmittedly, perusing the works of dead Polish painters is not up there on the priority list of visitors arriving to the land of Chopin, Solidarity and vodka.

What’s more, this year there are more pressing matters like how to score tickets for the Euro2012 and where to huddle for post-match kiełbasa and beer. But until the ice thaws, why not retreat indoors for close-up’s on handiwork of Polish talents from the 19th to 20th centuries? You’d be surprised how easy it is to absorb the names of these key artists and recognize their distinctive styles. And you’d impress your hosts (if you’re into that sort of thing) with a stock of titles of seminal Polish art.

came when he cornered the market for chronicles of historical turning points. The larger than life Battle of Grunwald oil on canvas painting was unveiled in 1878. It served as a record of who’s who and a reminder to the occupied nation that Poles had the muscle to kick the behinds of the pesky Teutonic Knights in 1410. Today, it’s still an altar kids pay homage to during school trips to the National Museum of Warsaw. Another Matejko painting etched into the nation’s consciousness is Stańczyk (1862). Depicting a 16th century court jester solemnly mulling life while merrymaking takes place behind, it alluded to how the powers of the day were recklessly letting the country nosedive in the disastrous campaigns against Moscow. Rejtan (1866), another major piece, resides at the Royal Castle in Warsaw and tells the story of Tadeusz Rejtan trying to block, literally, the ratification of the First Partition of Poland in 1772. But don’t go taking your Polish history exam based on Matejko’s accounts. Matejko was criticized for placing people in places where they hadn’t been. He justified such glitches as “historical-philosophical synthesis”, possibly the then phrase for artistic liberty. For all his heavy-duty topics, Matejko was small in build: the self-portrait of the regal-looking patriot is also at the National Museum in Warsaw.

The Brush is Not Enough The multi-talented Stanisław Wyspiański (1869-1907) was a star student of Matejko. Though prophesized by his tutor to become a Matejko-times-two, Wyspiański went on to resemble nothing like his teacher. Patriotic themes were not prevalent in his paintings, most likely because he had exhausted them to yield the plays and poems that earned him the title of the Fourth Polish Bard (after Mickiewicz, et al). For his visual dialogues, the short-lived Wyspiański created stunning stained glasses, including those at Kraków’s Basilica of St. Francis. Using pastel techniques he executed many portraits, including Malczewski’s. Those capturing his family life, such as Sleeping Staś (Śpiący Staś) and Motherhood (Macierzyństwo), are absolutely endearing. Born and bred in Kraków, the prominent and much-loved figure has a museum in his name in the old capital that showcases the full extent of his artistic prowess.

Further south, Zakopane was the home ground of Stanisław Ignacy Witkiewicz (1885-1939). Also known as Witkacy, we foreigners usually get hooked on him after seeing his realism-mixed-with-caricature portraits. Born into an elite family (his father was the brain behind the ‘Zakopane-style’ of architecture), he dabbled in all sorts of creative pastimes, and made a name as a painter, photographer, playwright, novelist, and philosopher. But his quirky and provocative antics plus his penchant for hedonism turned him into an outsider in cultural circles.

Witkacy wasn’t into the Zen state of mind; shock therapy was his mode of delivery. Despite his flighty nature, he level-headedly set up a portrait-painting firm in the 1920’s as a revenue generator. The clients had a choice of portrait types, from plain vanilla to abstract psychological study.

He experimented with stimulants to see how they could twist his perspectives; on the corner of some portraits, he recorded the drugs he had used for inspiration. If you’re escaping Warsaw for a skiing break in the Tatra’s, pop by the Museum of Zakopane Style (in Zakopane) for an example of Witkacy’s wackiness.

“ Had he been born later,

perhaps the world would have known Malczewski, and not Dali, as the master of surrealism”

www.warsawinsider.pl

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TRAVEL POZNAŃ

There’s an enduring myth about Poznań; that it’s a conservative city painted in conventional colors. It appears no-one told the natives... BY ALEX WEBBER

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PHOTOGRAPHS SHUTTERSTOCK

THE ’NAN

www.warsawinsider.pl

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TRAVEL POZNAŃ

Principally known for her trade fairs and work life, for too long outsiders have viewed The ’Nan through grey-tinted glasses.

Slowly, however, opinions have shifted. After all, how can you not love a city with a space-age hotel and two goats as its emblem?

Old Town Visitors are going to naturally gravitate towards the Old Town, a tight grid of streets centered round the Rynek.

Ignoring the peculiar addition of some Soviet concrete, the natural show stealer in the market square is the Town Hall, a wedding cake effort that’s the home of the goats – on the stroke of noon, you’ll find these two mechanical creatures appearing above the clock before knocking heads. It’s a tradition that dates from 1551, apparently in celebration of a pair of goats who escaped the cooking pot and ended up cavorting up the tower.

Museums Start with the big one first: The National Museum (www. mnp.art.pl) doesn’t just tout an impressive collection of Polish paintings, but also foreign art – including Monet’s Beach in Pourville; recovered in 2010, it was thieved at the start of the millennium by a particularly enthusiastic fan.

The Historical Museum is a largely dull affair (coins, maps, royal sealzzz…), especially compared to the Archaeological Museum (www.muzarp.poznan.pl). Head here to view not just local finds dating from Paleolithic times, but also a permanent exhibit dedicated to Ancient Egypt – I bet you weren’t expecting to see the mummy of a lady called Hat when you got off the train. Nor, for that matter, the phallic obelisk of Ramses II. Students!

Poznań is also a student city, and these dossers make up a significant portion of the population out here – but don’t think the local lot are a bunch of degenerate drunks.

It was whilst studying mathematics in the 1930s that three bright sparks came to the attention of the Polish secret service; recruited by the intelligence department, Jerzy Różycki, Marian Rejewski and Henryk Zygalski set to work cracking the German Engima ciphers, and a memorial honoring their contribution can be found outside the Castle.

The Castle Completed in 1910 to serve as a home-from-home for Kaiser Wilhelm II, original features (allegedly) included a network of tunnels allowing the Kaiser to access parts of the city without running across his not-so adoring public.

The Nazification of Poz saw the Castle become one of Albert Speer’s pet projects, and he set about stamping his style on it – the Chapel was earmarked as an office for Hitler, while the lower floors were to be the private quarters of the local governor. These plans were never realized in their entirety, and the Castle was wrecked by heavy Soviet shelling. Post-war plans to tear it down were

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eventually shelved, and today visitors should check the Rose Garden – inspired by the Alhambra. More poignantly, a museum dedicated to the 1956 Uprising (the first protest against Soviet control) recalls the brutal crackdown through a series of moving exhibits; among them, a shirt worn by a 13 year old boy – the youngest casualty.

Citadel Citadel Park has a small military museum, though more interesting are the cemeteries that mark its entrance – aside from a bombastic Red Army graveyard, find a Commonwealth cemetery in neighboring proximity. It’s here the pilots involved in The Great Escape (yes, the one immortalized by McQueen & co.) are buried. And just when you think you’ve seen it all, further exploration of the park leads to the startling discovery of 112 headless figures – they’re the work of artist Magdalena Abakanowicz, and look positively zombie-like approached from a distance.

Eat There

Dark Restaurant www.darkrestaurant.pl As culinary concepts go the whole ‘dining in the dark’ thing has dated hard and fast – it’s just so noughties, isn’t it.

Nevertheless, a good meal is a good meal, and let’s face it, it’s kinda’ fun being served by staff in Silence of the Lambs night vision gear. I, or at least my jumper, enjoyed a cracking guinea fowl, though you can expect the chef to do his best to surprise you.

Ratuszova www.ratuszova.pl What was once a staid and stately affair has had the benefit of a more modern facelift. Even so, the vaulted cellars are an august venue to enjoy important sounding dishes like ‘Huntsman’s Steak’ and ‘the Forest Imp’s Little Cauldron’.

Vine Bridge www.vinebridge.pl A tiny three table restaurant with views that fall on the illuminated cathedral. Book in advance to enjoy ‘new Polish cuisine’ as interpreted by head chef Radek. The dishes are as beautiful as they are mysterious (bear’s paw, fish in parchment…), with exciting tastes that go way beyond the standard Polski meat and cabbage. Steal the limelight and book the window table.

Drinking There

Brovaria www.brovaria.pl A first class microbrewery with a chic, modern design and an international crowd polishing off the three on-site lagers - watch the brewmaster in action in the hall out back. If a

PHOTOGRAPHS SHUTTERSTOCK EXCEPT TOP BY ED WIGHT

Being There

healthy sampling of them has left you with sea legs then worry not: Brovaria also doubles as a rather nice hotel.

Pijalnia Wrocławska 8 Open-all-hours, Pijalnia is the natural finish point for local night owls. Find four zlot beer and vodka shots tanked back by a diverse crowd in varying stages of incapability.

The mischief regularly spills outside, with the piles of sick proof of the carnage inside.

Proletaryat www.proletaryat.pl Card carrying commies are going to want to skip Proletaryat, a jokey bar filled with PRL mementos and paintings of Stalin. At weekends it’s open way into the night, with ace regional beers drained by a fun, friendly audience willing to practice their English on stray foreign faces – now that’s the sort of communist party we appreciate.

Sleeping There

Blow Up Hall 5050 www.blowuphall5050.com Hailed the most hi-tech hotel in the world, this ‘electronic art hotel’ is as clever as a cart full of monkeys. And OMG it really is something: enjoy a glass of champers while being checked in, then access your room courtesy of an iPhone app. With prices starting around a cool zł. 1,000 it’s certainly an indulgence, but one that’s totally unforgettable – imagine staying in a 23rd Century museum of modern art and you get the idea.

IBB Andersia www.andersiahotel.pl A hi-tech glass tower with majestic views and a crisp, futuristic style. One warning though: the transparent bathroom walls have the capacity to cripple the unwary. Rooms from zł. 300 upwards.

From There

Should you find yourself in Tourist Information (www.cim. poznan.pl) at any point, it’s likely out of town diversions are going to be built around a day trip to Korńik. And yes, while this neo-gothic residence is pretty cool, it’s definitely best visited in the spring – when the surrounding gardens and parkland aren’t under frost. Instead, pilgrims should consider the 50min train to Świebodzin – home to the largest Christ in the world. Closer to Poz, the Morasko meteor craters ten clicks north measure as much as 100 meters in length, and 13 meters in depth – you really wouldn’t have wanted to have been standing on that spot when they smacked down to earth 10,000 years back. Finally, for something totally spooky, journey out to Owińska to tour an abandoned lunatic asylum. Emptied by the Nazis, the creepy goings on have been subject to international press.

You’ll need to use guile and trickery to gain access, but once you do, you’re guaranteed an urban exploration like no other: and yes, I did see something that went bump in the night… But that’s for another time.

From top, Pijalnia, 24hr party, Blow Up Hall 5050 lobby, join the techno revolution, Old Town, colorful burgher houses line the Rynek.

www.warsawinsider.pl

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TAKE A STREET BRACKA

BRACKA UNCOVERED

Bracka’s always been fun – in the past it was home to Warsaw’s first circus. Now it’s in the process of rediscovering its touch, with a varied offer of cafés and boutiques.

KRUCZA

BY AGNIESZKA JĘKSA & ALEX WEBBER

ALEJE JEROZOLIMSKIE

09 06 01 13 10 12 07 08 04 05 11 03 02 16

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Bar Nam Saigon Brzozowski Palace Cafe 5.29 Carolina Herrera Labels and Love Likus Między Nami Mydlarnia Nazi Post Oh Lala Smyk Building Tatuum Traffic War Grave

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FASHION Carolina Herrera ul. Mysia 5, www.carolinaherrera.com Carolina Herrera's obsessed with pockets, 'cause she never knows “what to do with her hands.” Don’t know what to do with your hands? Buy a Herrera for the answer…

Likus Concept Store Wolf Center, ul. Bracka 9, www.likusconceptstore.pl Poland’s premier address for designer tags – you won’t find more designer labels per sq/m anywhere else. Money spenders inc.

Jimmy Choo, Paul Smith, Dries van Noten, Stella McCartney etc…

Labels and Love ul. Bracka 18, www.labelsandlove.pl A selective boutique, they say. Greek labels are accompanied by Italian and Spanish items. Prospective Carrie Bradshaw’s will love their bags.

SHOPS Mydlarnia ul. Bracka 20, www.aromabar.pl Organic cosmetics, handmade ceramics and assorted last minute gifts. Apparently, even their music is ‘aromatic’…

Possibly the smallest espresso bar in the world. Stuffed into an area of 5.29 sq/m, find not just espresso, but also a fab oven knocking out foccacias, bagels and French pastries.

LIFESTYLE

Traffic ul. Bracka 25, www.traffic-club.pl Set inside the historic Jabłkowski Bros store (something of a pre-war Harrods), Traffic is a multi-floor mecca for books, film, music and English-lang press. Like EMPiK, just better.

Oh Lala ul. Bracka 22/12, www.ohlala.pl The most chichi dance school in Wa-wa.

Study the secrets of pole dancing, hula, burlesque and endorphin.

FOOD/DRINKS

Brzozowski Palace ul. Bracka 20A Designed by the prolific Henryk Marconi, this mid-19th century palace was originally occupied by the aristocratic Belina Brzozowscy. Built in a French Renaissance style, its labyrinthine interiors can be viewed by popping into the cool Huśtawka bar on the ground floor – or the murky gay club down below.

Bar Nam Sajgon ul. Bracka 18 Formerly found in the now defunct Russian

LOOK OUT FOR

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF STORES EXCEPT HUŚTAWKA BY BARTOSZ BAJERSKI AND CAFE 5.29 BY KEVIN DEMARIA. MAP BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Nazi Post ul. Bracka 20 Grope around the courtyard of Bracka 20 and you’ll find a communications box high up as you enter to your right. Bearing the legend ‘Reichspost’ it’s a rare and unexpected reminder of German occupation.

Our Lady ul. Bracka 23 Courtyard shrines – the majority of which sprung up during the war when it was safer to conduct your prayers anywhere but church – are prevalent in Praga. They’re rarer this side of the water, so head deep into Bracka 23 to see one of the more intricate and well tended examples.

Market, Nam Sajgon is cult Asian dining at its best. The Hanoi Pho has a fan club of its own.

Bar 13 (Likus Concept Store) Wolf Center, ul. Bracka 9, www.likusconceptstore.pl Start your shopping spree with a glass of pink champers, before finishing the day with a cheeky glass of red champagne – both are the product of Rene Geoffroy, whose tipples you won’t find anywhere else in Poland.

Między Nami ul. Bracka 20, www.miedzynamicafe.com The undisputed home of Warsaw café culture. Among the artsy regulars find Maciej Nowak, Gazeta Wyborcza’s famed foodie.

5.29 ul. Krucza 51 (corner of ul. Widok)

Smyk Building Corner of Krucza/Jerozolimskie Poland’s premier toy store is actually a piece of history. Completed in ’51 this classic piece of machinist architecture drew 80,000 people in its first three days alone. A mystery fire in ’75 saw the building lose much of its socialist detail, and the crime remains a classic Warsaw whodunnit – if you believe the locals, the blaze was the murky fallout from a political dispute…

War Grave ul. Bracka 5 Enter the courtyard to find a horizontal glass case covering some thick white lettering.

Painted after the war by his mother, the signage reads, “Antek Rozpylacz is now buried in Powązki Cemetery.” As things go, it’s a stark trace of the ’44 Uprising.

www.warsawinsider.pl

19

GLIMPSING THE PAST

URSUS: THE TRACTOR FACTOR(Y)

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PHOTOGRAPHS THIS PAGE COURTESY OF OPUSZCZONE.NET, OPPOSITE PAGE AGENCJA FORUM

Few events illustrate the madness of communism better than the rise and fall of Ursus – a white elephant extraordinaire. BY CHRISTIAN SWINDELLS

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W

hile everybody has heard of the Gdańsk shipyards and Solidarity, Warsaw once had the Ursus tractor factory, which was every bit as influential in Poland's fight for democracy. It also showed precisely why centrally planned economies were doomed to failure.

The history of the Ursus Factory dates back to 1893, when it was based at ul. Sienna 15 and knocking out pipe fittings and valves. Eventually, they moved on to trucks and then agricultural vehicles, producing the first ever Polish tractor in 1918. Between 1923 and 1927, a brand new factory was built at a village named Czechowice and the village renamed after the factory: Ursus. WWII left the factory devastated and when it was rebuilt, it was to make a Polish version of a Czech design based on a pre-war German tractor. From 1968 onwards a team of Polish engineers led by Jerzy Wyglądała and Henryk Szczygła worked on an entirely Polish design, the U series of tractors: modern designs which showed excellent potential.

But this promising development was shelved in 1971 when some bright spark at Party HQ came up with a cunning plan: Poland would borrow a vast amount of money from the West, build a new factory and make a fortune by exporting tractors! Western bankers were only too happy to extend Polish loans by billions of dollars and a good chunk of that was spent in December of 1974 on license rights to a series of tractors from Massey Fergusson, a noted British tractor producer. A shiny new factory that could produce 75,000 tractors per year was built at the Ursus site, as well as a new steel mill in Lublin and factories in seven other Polish cities to supply the new Warsaw colossus – so far, so good.

Four years after the license agreement had been signed, in November of 1978 the first new Ursus tractor, an MF-235, was assembled from parts shipped in to Poland. And the first problems appeared: Massey Fergusson was British and so used the imperial system, which meant that not a single nut or bolt on their machines fit the metric system tools used in Poland, so all those had to be changed. And the engines were designed for western quality diesel, not the lower quality stuff found in the Communist world, so those needed redesigning. And the workers went on strike, sparking countrywide unrest. And then again. And then Martial Law was declared, which led to western funding being cut off. What with one thing and another, it was an entire decade after the deal was signed that the first tractor actually rolled off the production line. By this time a rather large stock of parts had built up. As only very limited warehousing space had been thought necessary when building the factory, most of it had been left outside, and rusted. Other equipment simply wasn't used at all: as late as the end of the 1990s some machinery bought from MF was still sitting in its packing crates.

But when Ursus finally did manage to produce a range of fairly decent tractors, they found that there was no market for the things: the license agreement kept them out of western markets and the price was far too high for the eastern bloc markets. Approximately $1 billion had been invested for exceedingly little return. However, the factory's workers had played a key role in the events

“ Management stemmed the financial bleeding with a fairly original strategy: not bothering to pay tax” which saw Solidarność founded and led to the fall of the Communist regime. And the 1974 deal hadn't been a complete disaster: while negotiating the licenses with the British government, Polish officials had managed to secure a promissory note from the British for a $60 million credit line for the construction of a five-star hotel in Warsaw. A mere 15 years later, the Warsaw Marriott opened its doors and has been doing very nicely since.

The end of Communism found Ursus still relying on government hand-outs and with a management who showed little understanding of how capitalism worked. Add in a bloated workforce (18,000 doing the work of 12,000) who showed much the same attitude as the Titanic's band when it came to leaving their positions, and you had the recipe for losing vast quantities of cash. The company lost well over a trillion złoty in 1993 and then another half trillion in 1994. Management stemmed the bleeding slightly with a fairly original strategy: simply not bothering to pay tax, which resulted in a debt to the tax man of approximately three trillion złoty building up by 1996. In 1996 the company was split up into a number of different companies, many of which promptly went bankrupt. The main factory faired very little better: by 2009 annual production was down to just 700, less than was made each month in the 1970s, and the workforce had fallen to 220.

Today Ursus tractors are made not in Warsaw but instead

by Pol-Mot in a former Daewoo factory in Lublin (although a company in Pakistan sells a tractor apparently identical to a 1980s' Ursus, right down to the name on the side). The site of the factory should in the future feature ten thousand new apartments and office and retail developments. But for now, it's home to all that remains of what seemed a really good idea 40 years ago. www.warsawinsider.pl

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BOOKS

WINTER READING

BY AGNIESZKA JĘKSA AND ALEX WEBBER

9

by Andrzej Stasiuk 9 is the story of Paweł, a young businessman who wakes up to find his Warsaw apartment smashed by the loan sharks who are on his trail. He seeks help from Bolek, a former miner and a drug dealer, and from Jacek, a junkie. The three men are in constant movement, searching for a solution and salvation with the city of Warsaw forming the principal backdrop in this harrowing book.

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The End of the World in Breslau

by Marek Krajewski This dark odyssey into a lost world of decadence, class and deception is not an easy journey. But Krajewski performs the key function of a good novelist: providing us with a key to a world far from our own. You’ll find yourself in Wrocław of the 1920s, full of dark glam, where the main character – Mock – stumbles upon two bodies… What do these victims have in common? Will Mock discover the answer during one of the drug-fuelled aristocracy orgies at which he’s a regular?? (AJ)

A Country in the Moon: Travels in search of the Heart of Poland

by Michael Moran Moran had no connection with PL at all before his arrival in the country – ostensibly to fulfil a promise to a dying uncle (a Chopin maniac, apparently) to scatter his ashes in Żelazowa Wola. Living here ever since, this travelogue follows the course of the Wisła and is full of baroque eccentricities, shocking extravagancies and impossible anecdotes about a country recently unchained from the shackles of Communism. The result is probably the best contemporary travel book on Poland. (AJ)

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Don’t fancy venturing into the open? Who can blame you. So this winter, why not save spending on mittens and increase your brain power instead with a pile of books about Poland?

The Xenophobe’s Guide to the Poles

The Painted Bird

There’s an Egg in my Soup

Snow White and Russian Red

by Ewa Lipniacka Poles steal, cheat and half of the nation belongs to the mafia – that’s what a Mexican acquaintance was told before moving to PL. This cheeky guide to such stereotypes is a hilarious collection of consistent observations that will help you to understand, among other things, why Poles are too anarchic to play any team game and – as a consequence – suck at football; why there are so few academics left in the country and why the nation managed to avert the global crisis. (AJ)

by Tom Galvin The story of one Irishman’s experiences in small-town 90’s Poland. Hit and miss Galvin’s book is riddled with appalling typos, a smug undertone and minor inaccuracies. Even so, it’s an interesting glimpse into backwater Poland, and a sharp reminder just how fast the country has moved. In large the anecdotes are delivered well, and this comes across as a light, decent read to dive in and out of. If nothing else his description of ‘the Victorian-looking butler’ at Warsaw’s London Steakhouse still rings hilariously true. (AW)

by Jerzy Kosinski Jerzy Kosinski’s groundbreaking bestseller tells of the adventures of a six year old boy on the run from the Nazis. Apparently based on the author's own experiences (a controversial point, considering his history of extravagant lies), the book was deemed so contentious it was banned outright during ommunism. Do not expect an easy read. This classic is packed full of gruesome tales of abuse at the hands of the Polish peasantry, and leaves the reader spinning for hours afterwards. (AW)

by Dorota Masłowska She’s been compared to Irvine Welsh, Franz Kafka even, and there’s no doubting Dorota Masłowska’s talent. Just 21 when this was originally published, her darkly comic work follows the fortunes of ‘Nails’, a tracksuited chap with a fondness for cheap drugs and junk food. Something of an anti-hero, he’s prone to self-destruction with his life plunging from bad to worse as he wages a campaign against the Russian black market. Alas, what could be a blinding read is let down by a clunky translation which loses both pace and style. (AW) www.warsawinsider.pl

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MUM'S THE WORD

“ Gradually fear was replaced with adrenaline as my daughter and I joined hand-in-hand and glided across the ice”

DANCING ON ICE!

With Winter in full swing, there is no better time to get your skates and into a rink near you. BY GILL BOELMAN-BURROWS

I

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t began when a friend rang and asked us to join them at the ice rink. Of course I agreed, put the phone down and felt my face crack into a petrified expression. What on earth was I thinking agreeing to such madness? Ice skating is for those who can glide effortlessly on ice while glittering in Victoria Secret style ensembles.

Immediately, my mind wandered back to the last time I had tempered the idea of ice skating; 1984’s Winter Olympics in Sarajevo, sat in front of the TV whilst Britain’s Torvill and Dean waltzed their way to gold. Obviously age had not made me wiser.

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My daughter though was thrilled at the prospect of a new adventure, and rushed to pull on her full winter uniform (sallopettes, fleece, scarf, gloves, hat, coat and extra socks). According to my friend the weather conditions were perfect for outdoor skating, a chilling -3. Perfect in my book for vodka on ice not a mum on ice! But my daughter’s eagerness to get the skates on meant I could only oblige her enthusiasm, thus ramming her feet into the stiff rental skates. My tip, if you intend to take up ice skating for any length of time invest in your own skates, and give them your own shape... and scent for that matter.

After a short battle involving a flight of stairs in skates and getting from the changing area to the beginners rink, we ventured precariously onto the ice. Whilst the outer rink skaters sped past it was comforting to see I was not alone hugging the fencing. My daughter, on the other hand, took to the ice like a duck to water and skated off into the snowy sunset with Mariah Carey squealing ‘All I Want For Christmas is You…’ through the sound system.

My friend, a Canadian, is a born skater. She can spin and jump like Angelina Ballerina, yet after getting over the initial shock that she has a sparkly sequined beret especially for ice skating, I did manage to find myself edging away from the fence and sliding, albeit in a robotic toe and froe action, over the ice.

Gradually fear was replaced with adrenaline as my daughter and I joined hand-in-hand and glided across the ice, our rosy faces frozen with a grin not even Botox could top. After a short and well-earned break in the ‘indoor’ café, sipping hot chocolate, we leapt back into action for the last 30 minutes of our session before heading back to the comfort of our slipper-like UGGs. Admittedly my body was in agony from such alien movement, but the mere fact I had not fallen led me to believe I should go back the following week for more of the same.

So as we enter a New Year and resolutions need keeping I shall be lunging, flipping, scratch spinning and perfecting landing positions on the ice with the family every Sunday in January through to March. And what kind of girl would I be if I didn’t get me a little bit of sparkle to heat up the ice rink!

Stegny Ice Rin ul. Inspektowa 1 (Outdoor) Złote Tarasy Shopping Mall Złota 59 (Outdoor) Palace of Culture Pl. Defilad 1 (Outdoor) Torwar ul. Łazienkowska 6A (Indoor) Promenada Shopping Mall ul. Ostrobramska 75c (Indoor)

RELICS OF THE PRL (1952-1989)

PHOTOGRAPHS, THIS PAGE FAR RIGHT AGENCJA FORUM, LEFT KEVIN DEMARIA. OPPOSITE PAGE, GILL BOELMAN-BURROWS

DINOSAUR DINING

Krucza's been getting some hot culinary press lately, what with the launch of La Vanille, 12 Stolików and other such designer dens. So let's remember this old timer, Bambino.

You may recall it as a seedy, sorry haunt – not so much a relic of the PRL as an outright fossil. Yet while the milk bars of old are steadily dying out, this one continues to thrive. That's thanks in part to a refurb, one that's seen it brushed and buffed with a slick design that could, and we are not joking here, pass for a modern day caf. Unsurprising, therefore, to learn that boxing champ Andrzej Golota is one of the regulars you'll find queuing at their door.

Bambino, ul. Krucza 21

SUPERSAM Set on the frontline of Mokotów/Śródmieście, the Plac Unii retail/office development is emblematic of New Warsaw: flash, sexy

and completely ‘look at me’. Scheduled for completion in 2013, the Grade A project will be the peacock's feather in the neighborhood hat. But you know what, this patch of turf has always been something special. Originally slated to be home to Warsaw’s version of Radio City, the outbreak of WWII put those plans on ice – permanently. What did go up was Poland’s first self-service supermarket, an iconic building called SuperSam. Opened on June 6, 1962, the design was the work of architects Jerzy Hryniewiecki (also credited with the 10th Anniversary Stadium, a.k.a The Russian Market), and Ewa and Maciej Krasiński. What they came up with was a peerless bow-shaped structure that was deemed so experimental it won an honorary nod at the 1965 Sao Paolo Biennale.

The anchor store, SuperSam, was equally newsworthy. Dubbed Poland’s biggest supermarket, it was mobbed by thousands on opening day; unable to stem the crush building up outside, the lone policeman guarding the store found himself overrun, with the glass doors smashed in the melee that followed.

The crowds were no surprise – communist Poland had never seen anything like it. Enticed by lemons, bananas and Van Houten cocoa, SuperSam offered Varsovians an exotic taste of the Western world. The onsite bakery, Liliput, was regarded as the best in town, while Frykas, a fast food joint, was commonly credited for popularizing Italian eats. Alas, by the 1980s the structure had began to fail; cracks could be found spidering on the walls, and the leaking roof began to show classic signs of deterioration. By the turn of the millennium the whole thing was condemned by safety officers, and in spite of a last minute campaign to save it, SuperSam was smashed down in 2006: Sam, rest in peace boy. (AW) www.warsawinsider.pl

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WINTER SPORTS

ON THE PISTE

O

h winter how I love thee so… those pitch black mornings that make the journey to work so fun, that biting wind that breaks through even the warmest of coats, and those pools of frozen water that lie idly on the street waiting for me to soak my shoes. Yes, so many reasons to love this most fair of seasons.

But alas, if like me you don't look forward to the first drop of snow with the same bated breath as most Poles do, then fear not because winter in Warsaw is not all bad.

For one thing, Poles know how to have a good time in even the worst of climates. This is particularly so when it comes to winter sports, which is why this month you’ll find me getting to grips with a pair of skis.

“ My knowledge of the sport is limited to knowing that Adam Małysz was good and Eddie ‘The Eagle’ Edwards was even better” My first port of call was Warsaw’s only dry ski slope, which is situated in Szczęśliwice Park, right next to Blue City shopping centre. Given that my practical experience of skiing is nonexistent and my knowledge of the sport is limited to knowing that Adam Małysz was good and Eddie “The Eagle” Edwards was even better, this was definitely something of a trip into the unknown for me.

After navigating my way through the arctic gale that was

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Wa r s a w I n s i d e r : 0 1 - 3 1 J a n u a r y 2 0 1 2

passing through Szczęśliwice on the day, I was delighted to get through the main entrance to the warmth of the viewing area. I did so much want to get involved, but as this was just a watching brief (old war wound) I decided to settle down for a hot cup of tea and the best gofry with whipped cream I have ever tasted in my life.

In terms of price the ski slope is more expensive than, for instance, skating, with a one hour adult ticket costing zł. 9 and a helmet, boots, skis and sticks setting you back zł. 25. Even so, it’s still not much to pay. Open seven days a week, and with an Italian restaurant and refreshment hut on-site it’s a good place to while away a few hours without having to go all the way to the Tatra’s to get in a bit of downhill action.

Cross-country skiing, which I’m assured is not only an exhausting workout but also brilliant fun, is another option. Unfortunately, at the time of writing Warsaw is yet to get even its first light sprinkling of snow, and as crosscountry skiing is done on flat ground for the most part, snow is a definite necessity. However, when it does snow one of the best places to go is Kabaty Forest, located near to the end of the metro line. With skis and sticks available for hire and the chance to see both wild boar and deer in their natural habitat, this is the kind of activity I’m certainly planning to try in the New Year.

And finally, if you want some good old-fashioned snow based fun, free of charge, then in terms of sledging Moczydło Park has the best slope I know of in Warsaw.

So if you happen to have a free afternoon when the white stuff does eventually arrive, pop over and you might see me flying down the hill. Either that or I’ll definitely be close by biding my time indoors with a glass of mulled wine and some mince pies.

PHOTOGRAPH BY SYLWIA WOLAK

The coming of the Ice Age doesn't mean the cancellation of all sporting activity – certainly not... with the snow comes the skiing. BY DAVE INGHAM

EATING OUT Restaurants, Cafes & Wine Bars SECTIONS African. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

American & Tex-Mex . . . .

Asian . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Balkan & Russian. . . . . . .

British. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Cafes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

French. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Greek/Middle Eastern. . .

Indian. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

THIS MONTH:

* 10 updates

RATINGS p. 37 p.38 p. 39 p.40 p.40 p. 28 p.41 p. 41 p.43

International & Fusion. . .

Italian. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Japanese & Sushi. . . . . . .

Kosher & Jewish. . . . . . . .

Latin. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Polish. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Seafood. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Wine Bars . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Food Shops. . . . . . . . . . . .

p.44 p. 47 p.50 p. 52 p.52 p.34 p. 52 p.32 p.52

The following symbols (A1) map location are a rough indicator ideal for business as to how much you meetings can expect to pay for take a date a main course.

child friendly $ mains under

vegetarian friendly zł. 30

delivery $$ mains breakfast menu

zł. 30-55

free wifi available $$$ mains zł. 55+ BOW 2011 Best of Warsaw Award Winner

Insider’s Pick HOT FIND

Bagno Food & Wine ul. Bagno 2, www.bagno2.pl. Open Mon-Fri 7:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-22:00.

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF BAGNO

I

“ Our choices of eel linguine and sirloin steak, though interesting, showed up this restaurant’s growing pains”

f you’ve looked up ‘bagno’ in your Polish-English dictionary (you’ll have found ‘swamp’), you shouldn’t let the name of this trendy new spot guide your expectations. Located just a few paces from Pl. Grzybowski, owner Paweł Jaszczuk’s forward-looking project looks set to make the most of the revitalization of what was once the bustling center of Jewish life in the capital.

As befits a new spot trying to make its name, Bagno attempts to be a little bit of everything for everyone. Opening for breakfast at 7am, it offers a breakfast-in-bed service for the condo residents above, has a kids’ corner with games and a bookshelf stacked with great cookbooks, serves a business lunch clientele through mid-day, and offers a loungey-bistro feel for the evening crowd.

The seasonal menu is concise, but the choices were alluring and our young waiter was helpful in answering questions. Among the starters, which included mainstays like gravlax and a Parma ham salad, the baked beetroot with goat’s cheese seemed the most enticing. Served with arugula and a surprising dash of granola crunch, this proved very tasty, if just a touch tangy with vinegar. It went well with our wines, a solid Chianti Classico and an excellent velvety Primitivo chosen from a varied and accessible list.

Our choices of eel linguine and sirloin steak, though interesting, showed up this young restaurant’s growing pains. The steak was very nicely done, with a flavorful mushroom sauce and thick baked potato fries on the side. The promising pasta, however, was disappointing on more than one level: served in a rather small quantity, it turned out to be spaghetti instead of linguine and it was rather too al dente. Its redeeming values were taste and texture, mostly down to the combination of lightly smoked fish and a nicely executed carbonara-type sauce.

Sharing a good, very rich crème brûlée for dessert, we reflected that this young (and young-staffed) restaurant is a bit of a rough diamond at present.

While there is a genuine attention to basics that comes through on the plates, the finish, for now, can be lacking. But given the personable staff and owner and their unaffected efforts to please discerning palates, Bagno may yet well be on its way to become a new gem in the old ghetto. (MJ)

www.warsawinsider.pl

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EATING OUT cafés

Antrakt (D3) pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 22 827 6411.

Open daily 12:00-last guest. Intellectuals and playwrights gather in Antrakt, a quirky cafe that groans with antiques and artwork.

The presence of the theater next door keeps the IQ level high.

Amor (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 17, tel. 22 825 0036, www.czekoladziarniaamor.pl. Open Sun-Mon 12:00-21:00; Tue-Thu 10:00-21:00; Fri 10:0022:00; Sat 11:00-22:00. Chocoholics beware!

One step inside this chocolate parlor is all it takes to become a lifelong fan. Definitely no place for those on a diet, no matter what the light salads and fresh soups may suggest.

Batida (multiple locations) ul. Królewska 2, tel. 22 826 4474, ul. Przy Lasku 2 (Wola), ul. Marszałkowska 53, ul. Przejazd 6, pl. Trzech Krzyży 18, www.batida.com.pl. Open daily 9:00-21:00.

A café, upscale delicatessen and cake shop with traditional Polish elegance. Excellent cakes and nibbles.

Bily Konicek Café (C3) National Ethnographic Museum, ul. Kredytowa 1, tel. 696 490 846. Open daily 9:00-20:00. Stylish décor, brilliant lattes, delicious meringues, fresh pies and home-baked oatmeal cookies, this is a great place for a sweet bite on a rainy day.

Blikle (D3) ul. Nowy Świat 33, tel. 22 826 6619, www.blikle.pl. All-day breakfast: Mon-Sat 9:00-last guest, Sun 10:00-last guest.

Brilliant traditional desserts in a historic location that has a history that spans over a century of fine pastry-making. Also stop by the next-door deli for specialty goods.

Bookhousecafé (D4) ul. Świętokrzyska 14, tel. 22 826 8559.

Open daily 7:30-23:00. Great sandwiches, pastries, custom-brewed coffees and over a dozen varities of tea in a bookish interior that is intellectual in spirit.

Cafe Borgia (H4) ul. Francuska 50, tel. 22 468 8554. Open 9:00-21:00. Instantly loveable, the downtown cafe branch of the eminent Balgera racks up points for a completely brilliant collection of cakes and desserts. Substantials like freshlymade pasta also available inside relaxed, whitewashed interiors.

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Café 6/12 (E5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 622 5333, www.612.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-23:00.

Famous for dispensing complicated fruit and vegetable smoothies, 6/12 have even introduced a full diet plan: pop-by for breakfast, then grab a goodie bag packed with balanced meals and snacks for the day ahead. Being healthy has never tasted better. Or looked better for that matter; still very much the choice haunt for the in-team. BEST WAWA 2011 “Cafe Culture” Winner

*

Cafe Colombia (D5) ul. Krucza 6/14, tel. 22 627 3770, www. colombiabar.pl. Open 8:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-23:00. Filled with bright, primary colors and plenty of armchairs, this two level cafe follows a simple formula.

Downstairs, it’s Colombia’s finest (coffee), upstairs it’s cocktails – and very tasty they are. And just to make sure they’ve got all hours covered, there’s food to enjoy either side of your beverages: barramundi, flame-grilled Argie steak etc.

Café Lemon Bar (D4) ul. Sienkiewicza 6, tel. 22 829 5544, www.cafelemon.pl. Open daily 24hr. Eight years old and counting, Lemon’s greatest glory are their open hours – non-stop.

For an early dawn after-party comedown, this citrus-colored cafe ticks the box, and isn’t so bad during the day when large, airy windows ensure maximum opportunity for people gazing.

Café Melon (Praga) ul. Inżynierska 1. Open daily 9:00-19:00.

This chic little café is an extension of the Melon photo studio located on the property. Here you can have a cup of gourmet tea or coffee and whole-grain cookies while enjoying the art on display.

Mounted photos taken by some of Poland’s young photographers are on sale.

Café Próżna (C3) ul. Próżna 12, tel. 22 620 3257, www.cafeprozna.pl. Open Sun-Thur 10:0023:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00. Ignoring the fact that most of this street looks ready to fall down, the artsy-looking Próżna comes with a chic, ice white look, and a stack of hard-back tomes to compliment the homemade desserts. Even better at night, when soaked in the glow of dozens of candles.

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Café Roskosz ul. Wiolinowa 2a, tel. 22 111 5015, www.caferoskosz.pl. Open 10:00-20:00.

Ursynów is a bit of a dead end when it comes to social life, so a big welcome to Roskosz, a cool café with retro interiors that scream ’80s Eastern Bloc. Decorated with chunky phones and primary colors it’s a cheeky look at the good ole’ days.

Café Rue de Paris (Saska Kępa) (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 617 8773, www.ruedeparis.eu. Open Mon-Fri 8:0021:00, Sat- Sun 7:30-22:00. A favorite rendez-vous spot for all the French- speaking folk dwelling the area. Salads, quiches and pancakes as well as fresh pastries baked on the premises.

Café Vincent (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. 22 828 0115.

Open daily 6:30-24:00. A must-stop, Cafe Vincent is your ultimate French connection: a bakery, pastry shop and bistro. It offers freshly baked treats from almond croissants to delicate brioches.

Caffe Balgera (C6) ul. Koszykowa 1, tel. 22 629 0189. www.balgera.pl. Open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-21:00. The breakfast menu here is simple but sweet and there’s great upscale café fare here all day long.

Caffetino (C4) ul. Świętokrzyska 32, tel. 22 624 0196.

Open Mon-Fri 8:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:0021:00. Located near the Palace of Culture, Caffetino serves mainly Italian cuisine: their pastas are truly excellent. Besides pasta, their specialities include delicious Italian coffees – with some interesting twists, such as the latte with honey and very tasty desserts.

Cava (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 30, tel. 22 826 6427. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-24:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-24:00.

Złote Tarasy (C4), ul. Złota 59, www.cava.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00. A prime spot on Nowy Świat’s red carpet keeps business brisk in this high-end cafe. Premium Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee available, and best enjoyed on a seasonal terrace that can barely be bettered.

Chłodna 25 (B3) ul. Chłodna 25, tel. 22 620 2413, www.chlodna25.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 10:00-last guest. Dreadlocks and piercings are the favored attire in Chłodna,

CAFÉS one of the last bastions of beatnik chic this side of the Wisła. Here it’s all sunken sofas and chipped wood tables inside a soothing environment celebrated for its experimental sounds and anti-establishment vibe.

www.czarnymotyl.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. An intriguing cross between a chilledout bar and a cafe, this is a good spot to grab a light meal, a pre-party drink or post-work sheesha.

Coffee Karma (D6) pl. Zbawiciela 3/5, tel. 22 875 8709, www.coffeekarma.eu. Open Mon-Fri 7:3022:00; Sat 9:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-22:00.

Order a smoothie, switch off the phone, open the book – it’s that sort of place. Concerts and art shows figure in their repertoire, as does rather good coffee. But to see Coffee Karma at her best, wait for the spring terrace.

Czuły Barbarzyńca (E3) ul. Dobra 31, tel. 22 826 3294, www.czulybarbarzynca.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-22:00; Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 12:0022:00. A very charming bookstore and café in one.

Czaji Bar Herbaciarnia (E5) pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7101.

Open daily 9:00-23:00. With a sumptuouslydecorated interior – think elegant, creamcolored and flouncy French queen’s private chambers – and beautifully-trained staff, Czaji Teahouse is a must-visit at any time of day.

Czarny Motyl (F1) ul. Ząbkowska 2, tel. 608 680 964,

Delikatesy Bracia Gessler (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, tel. 22 826 7936, www.gessler.pl.

Open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 9:00-23:00; Sun 10:00-23:00. Great sandwiches, cakes and pastries from the Gessler dynasty.

Columned, imperial interiors add a swish look to this Royal Route stalwart.

Fiku Miku Café (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 32. Open 10:00-19:00.

A kid-friendly café filled with stuffed animals and wooden toys. The menu is a

good, simple affair that involves shakes and smoothies, salads, quiche and slim line cakes.

Filtry Café (A6) ul. Niemcewicza 3, tel. 798 409 356, www.filtrycafe.blog.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00; Sat 10:00-21:00. Filtry Cafe’s got great coffee, fruit shakes, cakes, and light breakfasts combined with a funky atmosphere that attracts art lovers.

Flora Caffe (E7) Al. Ujazdowskie 4, tel. 607 232 642.

Open daily 10:00-20:00. Just outside the Botanical Gardens, this half café and half nursery serves teas, smoothies and sweet treats. Also open in chillier weather.

Francuska 30 (H4) ul. Francuska 30. Open daily 8:00-22:00.

An attractive modern café in the heart of Saska Kępa with an artsy feel. A large selection of coffee drinks as well as teas, complemented by a choice of pastries, muffins and simple Italian dishes at affordable prices. >>

www.warsawinsider.pl

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EATING OUT >> Garaż Café (Wilanów) ul. Pastewna 25, tel. 22 858 2693, www.garaz-cafe.waw.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-21:30; Sat 13:00-21:30; Sun 13:00-17:30.

It’s exactly what it sounds like: a café in a renovated garage. But the fresh, substantial salads and rich pastas win it a real thumbs-up.

Haagen Dazs (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel. 22 826 3052. Open 10:00-20:00. While Starbucks have struggled to replicate their Western form, Haagen Dazs haven’t. The mango sorbet is out of this world, albeit served inside generic, showroom interiors.

Herba Thea (C8) ul. Bruna 20, tel. 22 825 8814, www.herbathea.waw.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-23:00. Just a 5 minute walk from Pole Mokotowskie, off of Al. Niepodległości, this cosy teahouse houses a gallery and hosts live music and workshops on the weekends.

Kafka Café (E3) ul. Oboźna 3, tel.22 826 0822, www.kawiarnia-kafka.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00. Floor-toceiling glass walls, retro checkered floor tiles and rows of pre-loved books lining shelves characterize this café hotspot. They serve salads, pastas and pancakes and tote plenty of “free” factors: free wi-fi, smoke-free interiors and attitude-free waitresses. $ Kalimba (Żoliborz) ul. Mierosławskiego 19, tel. 22 869 9784, mob. 502 669 376, www.kalimba.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat & Sun 10:00-20:00.

Kalimba is a café designed specifically with little ones in mind. A cross between a gummy candy counter café and toy shop, it’s a wonderland for kids.

Kawiarnia Ogrody (D2) ul. Mariensztat 21A, tel. 22 826 2898, www.kawiarniaogrody.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-22:00, 9:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-20:00.

The black and white decor manages to strike a perfect balance between grungy and chic. Kawiarnia Ogrody is located on the beautiful, old-timey Mariensztat, and serves a selection of coffee drinks, shakes, snacks and pastries. Watch out, the ‘large’ coffee is actually huge!

Kawka Bar Kawowy (D6) ul. Koszykowa 30, tel. 22 621 6557, www.kawka.pl. Open Mon-Wed 9:00-22:00; Thur-Fri 9:00-24:00; Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun

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11:00-22:00. With 30 varieties of coffee (and a nice tea selection for you non-coffee types), Kawka brews up great java in a pleasant setting.

displayed almost like jewels, come in a rainbow of fillings, from coconut to cherries, mint to almonds.

Kępa Café (G3) ul. Finlandzka 12a, tel. 22 616 1225, www.kepacafe.blog.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:0022:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-20:00. A beatnik café that attracts the artists, writers and free wi-fi addicted inhabitants. Just the place if you’re craving coffee or tea from exotic corners of the world, or just seeking a peaceful escape from all the city buzz.

Leniviec (D5) ul. Poznańska 7, tel. 22 350 77 77. Finally open, and further evidence that the Wilcza/ Poznańska crossroad might, just might, become the next big thing. Touting themselves as a place for ‘coffee and culture’ we’ll be back next month to see if they walk the walk.

Kolonia (B7) ul. Łęczycka (corner of Ładysława), tel. 605 084 804, www.kolonia-ochota.pl.

Open daily 10:00-20:00. Equipped with a garden/playground, Kolonia is the most kid-friendly (and pet-friendly) place in the area, offering fresh daily specials.

Kredkafe (E6) al. Wyzwolenia 14, tel. 22 622 1561, www.kredkafe.pl. Open daily 10:00-20:00.

The interiors look great, bright and cheerful with cute cartoon sketches and an entire playroom complete with toys, stuffed animals and a playhouse. There is even a mini-theater where the kids can put on puppet shows.

Bathrooms, of course, have baby-change facilities. The brainchild of two women with experience in hospitality and pedagogy, part of the idea of Kredkafe was to create a teaching space.

La Vanille ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 578 2233, www. lavanille.pl. Open 8:00-20:00. In much the same way Charlotte is so much more than a bakery, La Vanille is definitely more than your standard confectioners. Thick with the scent of icing sugar, it looks sharp and sleek with glossy lifestyle mags tossed on battleship grey sofas. But it’s the counter that acts as a magnetic force, and it’s here you’ll find fantastic cupcakes of all color and flavor spread out in precise military formation. The coffee is pretty good and all.

Le Chocolat (D5) ul. Żurawia 26, tel. 22 745 1071, www.lechocolat.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:0019:00; Sat 11:00-16:00. This chic emporium is the realisation of one couples desire to offer top-quality chocolates that challenge the palate of the discerning fan. Inspired by the chocolate boutiques of Paris, over twenty different brands from a dozen countries are available. Handmade pralines and truffles,

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Magiel Café ul. Stępińska 2, tel. 22 841 0016, www.magielcafe.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:0022:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. Situated in a former laundrette, sweet looking Magiel comes crowded with rusting mangles and vintage posters advertising soaps and powders.

Featuring some delicious homemade meals inspired influenced by both the Polish and Mediterranean spirit, this place also gets noted for estoreric Polish beers, as well as a series of French wines sourced from private vineyards.

Mam Ochotę ul. Grójecka 75, tel. 22 667 8280, mamochote. blogspot.com. Open 9:00-24:00. A hip haven in an upcoming area this café gets cool concerts and other such events. And unlike most cafés in its genre, you don’t get the impression you’ll catch fleas from the seats.

Attractive light woods and guest artwork keep this place looking fresh and fun.

Między Nami (D4) ul. Bracka 20, www.miedzynamicafe.com, tel. 22 828 5417. Open Mon-Thur 10:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-23:00. One of Warsaw’s enduring legends, and as popular at night as it is during the day; media types love it, and you’ll find them pecking on quesadilla type snacks inside a hip, white interior.

Ministerstwo Kawy ul. Marszałkowska 27/35, tel. 512 091 840, www.ministerstwokawy.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00. Were it not for the fact MK opened after voting had closed, you’d have bet your bottom zlot this would have romped home with our ‘best café’ award. Decorated sparingly with white wall tiles and wooden floors, this newbie numbers some ace fruit drinks amongst its greater glories. Find a painfully in vogue crowd comparing boutique buys over gourmet coffee.

MiTo ul. Waryńskiego 28, tel. 2 629 0815, www.

CAFÉS mito.art.pl. Open Mon-Fri 7:00-22:00; 9:0023:00. Café, gallery, bookstore. Sure, we’ve seen that concept before, just not done in this style. Stark white backgrounds are offset by modern art, lending the place a Tate Modern feel. See and be seen – preferably, with a silk scarf and iPad. Mood Café (D10) Al. Niepodległości 80 (Ogród building), tel. 22 898 3003. Open daily 10:00-21:00.

Adjacent to a restaurant with a mainly Italian menu, this café has all the necessary caffeine options. Their banana and caramel cake is a must!

Mokotowska 22 ul. Mokotowska 22, tel. 22 622 0689, www.mokotowska-22.pl. Open 7:30-22:00.

Ignoring the rather lame name (come on, get creative eh...), 22 features soft, coffee-colored chairs, zappy, innovative art and an undefeatable selection of lattes. It works on every level, and is a great alternative to braying, boasting Charlotte down the road.

Mucha nie siada (Praga) ul. Ząbkowska 38, tel. 501 620 669.

Open daily 10:00-22:00. This friendly little café is a relatively new arrival, and as one of the only truly kid-friendly locales in the neighborhood, it’s a welcome addition. Has WiFi, a cheerful air and a menu of soups, bruschetta and gourmet coffee.

My Baby Café ul. Nowoursynowska 147, tel. 22 412 5594,

Lunch time

Take-away option

www.mybabycafe.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00, Sun 12:00-20:00. A bright and airy café serving good food and great coffee at reasonable prices. Downstairs is the Holy Grail – shiny new toys, a mini kitchen for the girls, a tool bench for the boys, and a large playhouse (real doorbell and all!). They even provide a nanny at no extra cost! Paradise for kids and heaven for Mums.

Nowy Wspaniały Świat (D3) Nowy Świat 63, tel. 22 505 6696, www.nowywspanialyswiat.pl. Open 11:00last guest. All life is here, from environmental radicals to theater bigwigs, and while it helps to look like a political activist, it’s become increasingly popular with the more standard Nowy Świat crowd. Lectures, DJs, exhibitions and screenings mean no night is the same.

Pędzący Królik (D2) ul. Moliera 8, tel. 22 826 0245. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-24:00, Sat 11:00-24:00, Sun 11:0023:00. Could Pędzący Królik be any more charming? It’s got a gorgeous view of the Theater Square and great desserts. Indulge in a carafe of the reasonably-priced house red and enjoy the great food and service.

Prosta Historia (H4) ul. Francuska 24, tel. 505 277 660. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:30; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:30.

An attractive Saska café decked with pale white colors, and steel lights overhead.

Service can be frustrating, and some call the food overpriced, factors which are offset

Cocktails

by a high street location: perfect for a spot of people watching.

Saint Honore (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 20/22, tel. 508 143 987, ul. Grzybowska 61 (Platinum Towers), www.saint-honore.pl.Open 8:00-21:00. Accept no imitation, here’s the best bakery around.

And aside from fresh baguette sandwiches, find authentically French cakes, croissants and pastries. No piekarnia can come even close.

Same Fusy (D1) ul. Nowomiejska 10, tel. 22 635 9014, www.samefusy.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00.

A must for café junkies. There are over 100 teas (ranging from the tame to the bizarre) to choose from.

Sklep z Kanapkami (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 11. Open Mon- Fri 8:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-22:00. A big selection of hot and cold sandwiches served on tasty, filling ciabatta bread to eat in or take out. Also soups, salads, pierogi, fresh juices, and even muesli. The prices are very reasonable for this neck of the woods.

Słodki… Słony (D6) ul. Mokotowska 45, tel. 22 622 4934. Open Mon 11:00-24:00; Tue.-Sun 10:00-24:00.

Sumptuously designed by Magda Gessler, Poland’s alpha restaurateur, the place has a homely, distinctly feminine feel. Recommended are the intensively creamy pistachio pie and Pavlova, as well as a small selection >> of equally delectable main courses.

Quality

Book parties with us

www.paparazzi.com.pl ul. Mazowiecka 12

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EATING OUT >> Szpilka (E5) pl. Trzech Krzyży 18, tel. 22 628 9132.

Open 24hrs. The days when Szpilka stood on the leaderboard of nightlife are long gone, but that’s not to say it’s not worth dropping in. The food osciallates in quality, but the location alone attracts a healthy stream of cafe hoppers and pub crawlers.

Starbucks (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 62 (check website for other locations), tel. 22 829 4021, www.starbucks.pl. Open Mon-Thur 7:3021:30; Fri-Sat 7:30-23:00; Sun 9:00-21:30.

It had to happen. The Starbucks invasion is well under way. First it was Nowy Świat, now the rest of Warsaw is under attack.

Decent coffee, but it’s yet to entirely imitate the standards they’re known for.

Steff Cafe (F6) ul. Jazdów 1, tel. 507 286 136. Open Sun-Thurs 10:00-21:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-22:00. An intellectual looking cafe in one of the outbuildings

by Zamek Ujazdowski. A limited selection of drinks and snacks is offset by a horizontal atmosphere and an adjoining bookstore filled with arty, coffee table tomes.

Tel Aviv (D5) ul. Poznańska 11, tel. 22 621 1128, www.tel-aviv.pl. Open Mon-Thur 8:30-22:00; Fri 8:30-midnight; Sat 10:00-midnight; Sun 10:00-22:00. One high-profile Jewish visitor described the food as ‘vile’. So maybe leave the humus to others, enjoy instead a cool, indigo-colored, pop-art style space with Israeli music and hard-to-find beers.

To Lubię (C1) ul. Freta 10, tel. 22 635 9023, www.tolubie.pl.

Open daily 10:00-22:00. The perfect place (with loads of charm and wonderful owners) to spend hours with friends while working your way through their delicious menu. The basket of cookies comes highly recommended.

Tok Café (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34, tel. 22 621 7799, www.tokcafe.pl. Open daily 7:00-22:00.

Perfect music for Monday mornings. Great sandwiches, salads, hot meals and a mouthwatering selection of goodies for your sugar fix.

TUTU Music Bar (Ursynów) Al. KEN 95, tel. 22 251 3274, www.tutu.waw.pl.

Open daily 13:00-last guest. TUTU Music Bar is the first smooth jazz bar in Warsaw’s Ursynów district. Its name comes from the album that Miles Davis recorded in the

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80’s with Polish jazzman Michał Urbaniak.

and the prices are very decent.

Vespa Café (D6) ul. Armii Ludowej 14 (PWC building), tel. 22 825 5775. Open Mon-Fri 7:30-19:00.

A chic, comfortable, sexy space inspired by 60’s Italy in the lobby of the PWC office building. Unlimited free internet access and plenty of sockets make this the ideal spot for a mobile office.

Esencja Smaku (D9) ul. Odolańska 10, tel. 22 845 0944, www.esencjasmaku.pl. A small bistro characterized by a casual décor and a laid-back atmosphere. Includes a seasonal menu of light dishes.

Wrzenie Świata (E4) ul. Gałczyńskiego 7, tel. 22 828 4998.

Open daily 9:00-22:00. This café/bookshop doubles as the events room for the Institute of Reportage, so it’s scant surprise to learn the regulars are armed to the teeth with notebooks and macs. Buzzing like a cafe should, it packs out for slideshows and seminars. Żywiciel (Żoliborz) pl. Inwalidów 10, tel. 22 322 8228, www.zywiciel.pl. Open daily 9:00-23:00.

This hipster café has gained a solid following thanks to its broad menu of breakfast choices.

Casual, relaxing atmosphere, enhanced by the art hanging on Żywiciel’s brick walls.

wine bars

C.K. Oboźna Cafe Bar (E3) ul. Oboźna 9, tel. 22 826 8317. Open Mon-Fri 8:30-last guest; Sat 10:00-last guest; Sun 10:00-last guest. This slick wine bar just off Krakowskie Przedmieście has plumped up its offer with all day breakfasts (zł. 9.90, coffee or tea included) happy hours (12:00-16:00, 19:00-22:00) and sports broadcasts. Great, simple food and excellent wines from Austria and beyond.

Charlotte (D6) pl. Zbawiciela, tel. 22 628 4459. Open Mon- Fri 7:00-24:00; Sat 9:00-24:00; Sun 9:0022:00. Further proof of Zbawiciela’s rising star is Charlotte, a trendy boulangerie/wine bar. With seating spilling out underneath the colonnades outside, this was easily the hit of the summer. Pandering to the hipsters and trendies, you’d expect this sort of place in Hoxton, London. BEST WAWA 2011 “Newcomer & People Watching” Winner Enoteka (C2) ul. Długa 23/25, tel. 22 831 3443, www.enotekapolska.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-midnight; Sun 13:00-17:00. Located just outside the Old Town, this minimalist wine bar is a great place for a date. Wines from top European makers are impressive

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Guccio Domagoj (Żoliborz) ul. Suzina 8, tel. 22 392 7438, www.winachorwackie.pl. Open Tues-Sun 12:00-22:00. A sweet and intimate little place run by a charismatic Croatian, who stocks a huge variety of wines from his homeland. Very reasonably priced.

Joseph’s Wine & Food ul. Duchnicka 3, tel. 22 320 2989, www.josephwinebar.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00. This newly- opened restaurant, bar and wine shop features great atmosphere and amiable staff. Don’t come here for a quick dinner. Instead, come here to drink the wine and savor the rich and inventive meals. Service is slow, but rightly so, leaving guests with just enough time to regain their appetite for seconds. Being firmly tucked away from the center in a renovated factory allows you to easily whittle away the hours.

Jung & Lecker (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 14, tel. 22 866 6749, www.prawdziwewina.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-18:00. J&L’s new wine bar on ul. Emilii Plater 14 offers minimalist, café-style chic. The locale offers daily specials that feature two four-course menus. The shops’ wines are sourced directly from 15 wineries in Germany’s famed Pfalz, Rheinhessen, Rheingau and Mosel regions.

La Passion du Vin (C4) ul. Złota 59, tel. 22 222 0495, www.winnica.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. Located in the Złote Tarasy shopping center, this chic wine bar features wines from France, South America, Israel, Italy and Australia. Sample some fine wine or treat yourself to the buy-one-get-one-free-lunch deal accompanied by a perfectly-matched wine.

Magazyn Butelek (D4) ul. Bracka 20, tel. 22 412 3124.

Open noon-last guest. Sample wine from various regions in this laid-back wine joint. Treat yourself to some lunchtime

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EATING OUT >> specials or nibble on some generously portioned pincho and tapas. Great Argentine beef and international specialties.

inside this gourmet fave. Keeping patrons returning are aromatic dishes with a contemporary twist – try the duck in rose sauce. $$$

Merliniego 5 (E10) ul. Merliniego 5, tel. 22 646 0849, www.merliniego.pl. Set up like a New York bistro, Merliniego 5 is a cross between a whisky bar and steakhouse. It’s sophisticated, but not snooty and has some truly excellent steak and salad.

Amber Room at the Sobański Palace (E5)

Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, www.kprb.pl/amber. Open for lunch Mon-Fri 12:00-15:00, Dinner Mon-Fri 18:00-22:00, Sat 19:00-22:30 The Amber Room is situated in a spectacular residence in the Pałac Sobańskich, with the addition of new chef Robert Skubisz raising their stock still further.

The restaurant bagged all the top awards in the 2010 Wine & Food Noble Night, and continues to be something of an address to impress. $$$

Mielżyński Wine Bar (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 636 8709, www.mielzynski.pl. Open daily 9:00-24:00 (kitchen closes at 23:00). Some call it the best wine bar in Warsaw, others the best in Poland. Either way, this place hits the right notes with a wonderfully simple gourmet menu, old and new world wines and a chic warehouse design filled to bursting with crates and boxes.

Vinoteka 13 + Wine Bar (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18, tel. 22 492 7407, www.vinoteka13.pl.

Open Mon-Sun 11:00-last guest. This premium wine shop and bar is tucked away in the beautiful Likus Concept Store. It sports a wide selection of fine wines from Italy, France, Austria and Spain, along with some stronger spirits and Cuban cigars at a varied price range. Also serves a tasting menu of cheeses and deli meats.

Vintage (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 9/11, www.korkociag.pl, tel. 22 625 4197. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-last guest; Sun 14:00-last guest. Korkociąg is now Vintage – the décor is slightly gaudy but the impressive Hungarian wine list has stretched to include great (though pricey) selections from the rest of Europe.

Winiarnia Kotłownia ul. Suzina 8, tel. 22 833 2327, www.winiarnia-kotlownia.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Bricks and girders lend a factory feel, while an Italian influenced menu poses plenty of dilemmas. Sunshine pours in through huge vertical windows, bathing this wine kingdom in plenty of light.

polish

Ale Gloria (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7080, www.alegloria.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00.

Who said romance was dead? Here wedding white colors are fused with a strawberry motif

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Atelier Amaro ul. Agrykola 1, tel. 22 628 5747, www.aterlieramaro.pl. Open 12:00-15:00; 18:00-22:30.

Stop press: fronted by star chef Wojciech Amaro, the recent launch of Atelier Amaro hasn’t just shaken Warsaw, it’s served as the biggest wake-up call the city has ever had.

Using the latest culinary techniques, you’ll find tables at this standout restaurant booked for months in advance – we’ll be there soon with the full lowdown… $$$ Belvedere Restaurant (F8)

ul. Agrykoli 1, (entrance from ul. Parkowa), tel. 22 558 6700, www.belvedere.com.pl.

Open daily 12:00-last guest. Set in an atmospheric greenhouse, known as the ‘New Orangery’ in the Royal Łazienki Park, this landmark fine dining establishment features renditions of Polish, European and Nouvelle Cuisine, within elegant red, gold and black interiors. $$$ BEST WAWA 2011 “Business Venue” Winner Biała Gęś ul. Belwederska 18A, tel. 22 840 5060, www.bialages.pl. Open 12:00-last guest.

All the props and staff of its predecessor (Tradycja Polska) are present, with the conspicuous add-on being flocks of white geese. And indeed, goose is the big draw here – these guys can fix you a whole bird if you book in advance (zł. 460 for four). As can be said of all places bearing Magda Gessler’s initials, the desserts are something else. $$$ Bistro Przekąski Zakąski (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, tel. 22 826 7936. Open daily 24hr. An eat-while-you-stand venue serving up eight złoty bites specifically designed to act as emergency stomach lining for a pre/post-

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party crowd of vodka sinking glamour cats. $ Chłopskie Jadło (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1717; ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, tel. 22 827 0351. A chain enterprise designed to mimic a peasant inn, what with all the clunky pots and rustic supplements. And if it’s farmers fare you’re after then the food isn’t bad either, with thick, lumpy servings of countryside classics. $ Cuda Wianki ul. Przekorna 15 (Powsin), tel. 22 498 1508.

Open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 11:0022:00. Standing at the foot of Kabaty Forest, the interiors here are simply adorable, and heavily influenced by folk art. Co-owned by a tennis pro and his parents, this family have sought to develop their own menu, based on standard Polish fare, but with twists and turns they have gathered through prior experience.

The results are excellent, especially the herring. $ Dekanta (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 55/73, tel. 22 622 4594.

Open Mon-Fri 12:00-last guest; Sat 13:00-last guest. A golden-oldies-themed eatery with a good grill and serious cocktails. Be sure to try their most popular dishes: duck and golonka. $$ Delicja Polska (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 45, tel. 22 826 4770, www.delicjapolska.pl.

Open daily 12:00-last guest. It’s one of those few places where the food is fabulous, service efficient and discreet and the interior reminiscent of a fairytale dining room. $$ Dom Polski (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 2432, www.restauracjadompolski.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. Built for moments when nothing but the best will do. Prices are premium, but this piece of high society features an aristocratic temperament and fine Polish cuisine served with an elegant flourish. $$$ Dyspensa (E5-6) ul. Mokotowska 39, tel. 22 629 9989, www.dyspensa.pl. Open 12:00-23:00.

Back after a refit, Dyspensa now looks altogether sharper, cosmopolitan even.

There’s great people watching to be had from the raised window seating, and a menu of fine Polish fare with international accents. $$ Folk Gospoda (B3) ul. Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605,

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EATING OUT >> www.folkgospoda.pl. Open 12:00-midnight.

If it’s the all-singing, all-dancing village experience you’re after then consider this place. Clad in wood and rural debris the food is what you expect: bulky portions of farmyard kill. $$ Gospoda Kwiaty Polskie (C1) ul. Wąski Dunaj 4/6/8, tel. 22 887 6520.

Open 10:00-23:00. Gospoda Kwiaty Polskie (Polish Flowers) specialises in Polish cuisine and is known for dishing out some very generous portions. The placki ziemniaczane and kopytka come highly recommended. $$ Grand Kredens (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 111, tel. 22 629 8008, www.kredens.com.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 11:00-last guest. Delicious traditional Polish dishes such as golonka, żurek, karkówka and kaszanka, served in hearty portions in very eclectic interiors. $$ Honoratka (C2) ul. Miodowa 14, 022 635 0397, www.honoratka.com.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. This place has been around since 1826 and has played host to many famous guests, including Chopin. Honoratka serves delicious traditional Polish dishes and international courses. Live music every day from 18:00. $$ Inn Under the Red Hog (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 22 850 3144, www.czerwonywieprz.pl. Open daily 12:0024:00. Bathed in banners and propaganda the Red Hog is your one-stop shop for some socialist socializing. Dine on ‘Brezhnev dumplings’ and ‘capitalist soup’ while Cold War bigwigs gaze from the paintings above. $$

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Jadalnia Popularna (C2) Pl. Bankowy 4, tel. 22 828 4454. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-17:00. Like a milk bar, only it isn’t. So the food comes out of canteen containers, but it doesn’t stink and it’s served with a smile. Find low-cost Polish eats served around a fun, retro theme to a crowd who wouldn’t be seen dead in the scummy bar mleczny of old. $ Karczma Słupska (G6) ul. Czerniakowska 127, tel. 22 841 4552.

Open daily 11:00-22:00. A jewel-of-arestaurant. After 26 years of steady operation, the charming Polish tradition and excellent food still pulls people in. $ Karmnik (D1) ul. Piwna 4A, tel. 22 468 0664. Open 11:00-

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last guest. There’s a new reason to go to old town, and that’s Karmnik. What was once a pokey tourist restaurant has been reinvented as a hip haunt for cool cats. The menu is decent, basic Polish, but it’s the art-mosphere that gets people coming back. Expect a variety of events going off inside vaulted interiors that are frequently full. $ Literacka (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 87/89, tel. 22 635 8995. Open 11:00-24:00. The food is decent and prices are very reasonable, but the service leaves something to be desired. With a great view of the Old Town, the location is choice. $ MG Eat Gessler (D4) ul. Chmielna 32. Open 10:00-23:00.

Now MG is not your signature Gessler venture; lacking the OTT interiors and flamboyant prices this is a clear departure from what we’re used to. In fact, you couldn’t even call it a restaurant, more a bio café/deli. The ciabbattas are great, and the FroYo outstanding. $ Na Zielnej (C4) ul. Zielna 37, tel. 22 338 6333, www.nazielnej.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; 12:00-22:00. Earning plaudits from all corners of the press is Na Zielnej, a dining diva which sources only the finest Polish produce. Split into a restaurant and (marginally cheaper) bistro, the menu has had foodies raving, and includes divine dishes such as pheasant’s breast. And the interiors hit the mark as well – making use of the space vacated by KOM, Na Zielnej touts an edgy, engaging design of bare bricks and violet flourishes. $$$ BEST WAWA 2011 “Address to Impress” Winner Nowa La Boheme (D2) pl. Teatralny 1, tel. 22 692 0681, www.laboheme.com.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. The ingredients here may be Polish, but the exquisite presentation and chic interiors are still decidedly continental.

Well-suited for business lunches. $$ Pierogarnia (D2) ul. Bednarska 28/30, tel. 22 828 0392, www.pierogarnianabednarskiej.pl. Open 11:00-21:00. A perfect place to bring a foreigner hungry for a taste of Poland.

Pierogarnia serves a whole range of sweet and savory dumplings, with plenty of vegetarian options. $ Pod Samsonem (C1) ul. Freta 3/5, tel 22 832 1788, www.podsamsonem.pl. Open 10:00-23:00.

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An extensive repertoire of traditional Polish foods that you know, from Jewish-style carp to duck with apples. The place for an ordinary meal in an ordinary space. The service is mixed, and occasionally hostile, but prices are low. $ Podwale Piwna Kompania (D2) ul. Podwale 25, tel. 22 635-6314, www.podwale25.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:0001:00; Sun 12:00-01:00. Towering, bumper portions of animals & veg plus low-cut prices keep this place rammed, while frothing Pilsner mugs and a circulating mountain band add an element of beery, good humor. $ Polka (D2) ul. Świętojańska 2, www.restauracjapolka.pl, tel. 22 635 3535. Open 12:00-23:00. Colorful pastel interiors inspired by Polish folk art set the tone for this place. The servings are small, but the food is top notch. $$ Restauracja Pod Gigantami (E5) Al. Ujadowskie 24, tel. 22 629 2312, www.podgigantami.pl. Open 12:00-last guest.

The turn-of-the-century décor brings with it an indelible mark of years gone by. But even if the food is only satisfactory, the wine list is pretty nice. $$

Restauracja Polska “Różana” (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 22 848 1225, www.restauracjarozana.com.pl. Open 12:00last guest. It isn’t just the impressionable tourists and new-in-town expense account communities that are swept away by Różana’s charms. It features starchy white table linen, floral pieces, flickering candles and live piano solos to a posse of attentive waiters. The prices are fair and the menu is a thoughtful selection of dishes from “Old Poland.”

Restauracja Staromiejska (D1) pl. Zamkowy 15/19 in the Old Town Square, www.restauracjastaromiejska.pl, tel. 22 831 0259. Open 10:00-midnight. This restaurant serves true, traditional Polish delights. The duck stands out especially, crisp and glazed with cranberries, apples and what-not.

To finish, try the wonderful szarlotka with whipped cream and ice cream. $$ Rialto’s Restaurant (D5) ul. Wilcza 73 (Rialto Boutique Hotel),

POLISH/AFRICAN tel. 22 584 8771. Open Mon-Fri 6:30-22:30; Sat-Sun 7:00-22:30. Bathed in toffee and vanilla hues, the restaurant in this Art Deco hotel has a solid claim as one of the top meals around. The pan-seared duck breast with honey pumpkin and figs is every bit as inspired as it sounds. $$$

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Rozpusta Restauracja Polska (B3) ul. Elektoralna 23, tel. 22 499 5178, www.restauracjarozpusta.pl. Open 12:0023:00. Only seven mains to choose from, but the chef appears a master of them all.

Utilizing homemade pates and sauces, the menu involves geese, lamb and a jolly good salmon. They’ve not exactly done anything new, but what they have done, they’ve done it well. $$ Smaki Warszawy (D5) ul. Żurawia 47/49, tel. 22 621 8268, www.smakiwarszawy.pl. Open 9:00-last guest. Well-known on the Warsaw scene as a delightful Polish restaurant (try the lamb, for sure), Smaki Warszawy is also renowned for its cakes. Smiling and welcoming staff pour amazing lattes and serve up slices of fantastic pistachio cream cake. $$

the desserts are divine. What sets this place apart from other Polish restaurants are the prices. $$ U Fukiera (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 27 (Old Town Market Square), tel. 22 831 1013, www.ufukiera.pl.

Open 12:00-last guest. This townhouse has 500 years of history behind it, during which time bills have been settled by princes and presidents, models and musicians.

Reminiscent of a stately home, this maze of enticing alcoves wins for an extravagant menu of locally sourced game. $$$ U Szwejka (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1710, www.uszwejka.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-24:00. The place is named after a tubby fictional Czech soldier, but the grub is hearty Polish, portioned out in size XXXL at bargain prices. At zł. 15 per litre of beer, the mugs are constantly refilled to wash down the feast of sausages, ribs and roast pork knuckles. $$ Villa Nuova (Wilanów) ul. Stanisława Kostki-Potockiego 23 (near the Wilanów Palace), tel. 22 885 1502, www.villanuova.pl. Open 12:00-last guest.

Out of the way, but serving trad Polish cuisine with a gourmet twist, and beautifully presented, gorgeously rich desserts. $$$

Stary Dom (E12) ul. Puławska 104/106, tel. 22 646 4208, www.restauracjastarydom.pl. Open 12:0023:00. This “old house” serves good old traditional Polish food. The atmospheric main hall features high ceilings and eye-catching Winiarnia i Gospoda nad Jeziorem (Józefów) wooden beams; mains include rabbit, duck ul. Nadwiślańska 96B, tel. 667 770 790, :DUVDZ,QVLGHUBUHNODPDB [ PP SGI (the house special) and pork cutlets, while www.nadjeziorem.pl. Open Tues-Fri 14:00-

21:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-20:00. One of our favorite hidden gems for a quaint afternoon or evening away from the city. Just about twenty minutes outside of the center, this lodge-style restaurant specializes in fine wines from Bordeaux and traditional Polish food. $$

african

Café Baobab (H4) ul. Francuska 31, tel. 22 617 4057. Open 10:00-23:00. Café Baobab serves Senagelese classics like thiebu djen, mafe yap and yassa ginar. It’s adapted to Polish tastes, but say the word and authentic spiciness can appear. $ Home Africa Bar (Wola) ul. Górczewska 67. Open 14:00-last guest.

Authenticity doesn’t only stem from the Cameroonian owner. Home Africa Bar is like an African film set in terms of interior, and food-wise, it offers traditional yams and plaintains, as well as ‘I-dare-you’ items like goat’s head. $ La MaMa Africa (C1) ul. Andersa 23, tel. 22 226 3505, www.lamama.eu. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-last guest; Sun 13:00-24:00. The exteriors don’t go beyond some tribal paintings and exotic lamps, while parts of the menu will frighten the life out of you – baked cow back, for example, sounds like a cooked spinal cord.

Our beef/tomato stew was excellent, but the goat meat saw plenty of tactical napkin use. >> And good luck with the gizzard. $$

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Food is our passion. Preparing, serving and enjoying a delicious meal is always inspiring.

The essential elements are: honest cooking, which can be traced back to the freshest ingredients; a great selection of wines, a welcoming atmosphere - we want our guests to feel at home, not to stand on display.

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22 Żurawia str., 00-515 Warsaw, tel. +48 (22) 502 31 18, opening times: Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00 www.butcheryandwine.pl/en, www.facebook.com/butcheryandwine

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EATING OUT >>

american & tex-mex

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Amigos American Steakhouse (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 119, tel. 22 629 3969, www.restauracjaamigos.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-24:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-23:00. Sometimes, all you need is a good steak to make everything okay. This is not the place to find one. Usually disappointing, occasionally catastrophic, this Wild West eatery gets nil points for style, and even fewer for service. $$ Champions Sports Bar (D5) Marriott Hotel, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 5119, www.champions.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. Long-known on the Warsaw scene as a sports bar – ideal for large groups of large guys drinking large amounts of beer and watching a large-screen TV. $$ Hard Rock Cafe (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, www.hardrockcafe.pl. Open 9:00-24:00.

Recognizable by the giant neon guitar outside, the two floor HRC boasts Warsaw’s

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best cheeseburger and a cool staff of skater boys and rock girls. Points of interest include rock’n’roll swag from Hendrix and Madonna, as well as regular live music. $$

on-site, tasty Koreb beer as well as mains that number fantastic burgers and ribs of legend. $

Jeff’s (B8) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 32 (Pole Mokotowskie Park), tel. 22 825 1650, www.jeffs.pl.

Open 10:00-24:00. Warsaw’s best breakfast aside, head to Jeff’s for megasize portions of American classics of the burger-ribs variety. Find their twin branch in Galeria Mokotów, along with an identical roadhouse design of blinking neon. $

Sioux (D4) ul. Chmielna 35, tel. 22 827 8255, www.sioux.com.pl. Open 10:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-23:00. You might want to point the shotgun hanging on the wall at the chef.

Decorated with horseshoes and feather headdresses, the only reason to show up is to humor a nagging infant. Food-wise, it’s little more than a cowboy-themed version of Sphinx: mass market food for those who don’t know better. $$

Mississippi Blues (H4) ul. Meksykańska 3, tel. 605 887 857. Open Sun-Thur 12:00-20:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-22:00.

Set down a side street in Saska, Zippy Blues is tiny, and we fully anticipate that being a problem once word gets out just how good it is. Decorated sparingly, the menu here includes homemade sauces, bread baked

Someplace Else (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6707, www.someplace-else.pl. Open Mon 12:00-24:00; Tue-Thur 12:00-01:00; Fri & Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 12:00-23:00. After a summer sabbatical, SPE are back, touting a new edgy look that makes use of concrete colors and exposed pipes. The spicy, sizzlin’ Tex-Mex

REVIEW

Ministerstwo Kawy ul. Marszałkowska 27/35, ministerstwokawy.com.

Open Mon-Fri 8:30-21:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00.

“ Warm and welcoming, it’s one of those few places that’s not too commercial and not too hipster”

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happen to be among the lucky few who work just around the corner from Plac Trzech Krzyży. I was delighted when they opened Charlotte this past summer, but my enthusiasm soon faded when I realised that the crowds at this Au Bon Pain look-alike would make a quick lunch impossible. But now there’s Ministerstwo Kawy just a few steps away, a sweet little place located right behind the church. I actually walked passed this place when it was still vacant and thought, “This would make a really amazing café!” And here we have it, Ministerstwo Kawy has stepped up to the plate and hit a home run.

This is just the chicest little café I’ve seen in a while: pristine white tiles and Edwardian-style furnishings combined with a pretty funky contemporary lamp and simple tables, chairs and comfy chaises.

Warm and welcoming, it’s one of those few places that’s not too commercial and not too hipster, while the chalkboard menu is a nice way to keep the décor from seeming too stuffy. The big windows and view of the back of the church are an added bonus.

The coffee offer is extensive, with drip specials that change every week (zł. 9-11). I sampled the Panamanian and Ethiopian offers last week, the former quite velvety and fruity, the latter chocolate-y and rich. I’ve been back two more times since, once to try the freshsqueezed juices – the beetroot, carrot, ginger blend was refreshing and yummy – and the next time to warm my belly with some pumpkin soup with wild rice (both zł.10). Oh, and I almost forgot the dreamy orangecarrot cake with cream cheese dressing (zł.10), which totally knocked my previous favorite – the carrot cake at Café Karma – out of first place.

So finally, Warsaw has a proper, grown-up café; I just hope it doesn’t get so crowded that I have to wait for a table. Even so, it’d still be worth it. (AL)

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF PIOTR JAGIELSKI

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AFRICAN/AMERICAN/ASIAN is fab, and added incentive provided by the rousing rock bands. $$ T.G.I. Friday’s (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 29 (Atrium Plaza), tel. 22 653 8360. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-24:00; Sat & Sun 12:00-24:00. The steaks are hit-and-miss, but the burgers always on-point inside this timeless tribute to the American way. $$ Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46 (entrance from ul. Poznańska), tel. 22 621 8622, www.warsawtortillafactory.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. An Insider favourite, principally thanks to brick-thick burritos that are all the better when layered with molten lava-like salsa. The barometer hits fever pitch on weekends when live bands entertain a mixed bag of jiggling ex-pats and lubricated students. $$

asian

Asia Tasty (C3) pl. Żelaznej Bramy 1, tel. 22 654 6120.

Open 9:30-21:00. One of the great secrets of culinary Warsaw – for those In The Know this is the place for cheap, cheerful Asian food. Not that it looks like much, this is as basic as interiors get; leave the hot date outside while you pick-up a takeout. $ Bar Sajgon ul. Bracka 18. Open Mon-Thurs 9:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 9:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-21:00.

A cult budget eatery once found in the defunct Russian Market. Two years after the original went pop they’re back with a neat looking effort on Bracka. Decorated with palms and mint colors, this double decker restaurant gains particular approval for its pho dishes. $ Bliss Restaurant (D2) Rynek Mariensztacki, tel. 22 826 3210. ul. Twarda 42 (off Rondo ONZ), tel. 22 620 3519, www.blissrestaurant.pl. Open daily 12:00-22:00. Longevity aside, Bliss (alive since ’95) boast classically cliche interiors that make dramatic use of dragons and buddhas.

Inconsistent accuse some, though you’ll struggle to find better Chinese-style ribs. $$ Canton (B2) ul. Smocza 1, tel. 22 838 3823, www.canton.warszawa.pl. Open daily 11:00-22:00. Here’s what Chinese restaurants used to look like in the days of Bruce Lee: filled with dragons and lanterns, this place is an outright assault on your sensory system.

Wokking away for over a decade, it’s actually not a bad place if you want an MSG booster.

The Gong Bao chicken gets approval. $$

at affordable prices, cozy interior, and a staff whose friendly attitude makes up for their small mistakes. $$

Cesarski Pałac (D2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 9707, www.cesarskipalac.com. Open Mon-Fri 12:0023:00; Sat 12:30-23:00; Sun 12:30-22:00.

The spring rolls may “taste Polish,” but more authentic are the Cantonese loin in oyster sauce, the Tshingis Chan Mongolian Grill (all-you-can-eat for zł.65) and the succulent Peking Duck. $$

Lemongrass Oriental Restaurant & Bar (E6) Al.Ujazdowskie 8, tel. 22 696 3300, www.lemongrass.waw.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sunday brunch 12:00-16:00.

Instead of the ubiquitous pasta station, you can order your soup starter to taste and watch it be put together. The Peking Duck station offers customized oh-so-thin pancakes rolled around succulent slices of the meat, spring onions, cucumber and palm sugar sauce. Ideal for business meets. $$

Du-Za Mi-Ha (D4) ul. Widok 16, tel. 22 826 1871. Another Vietnamese joint, this one notable for fresh, healthy nem filled with crunchy, perky fibers.

At 2 zlot per pop, there’s no excuse to miss it. $ Dziki Ryż (multiple locations) ul. Puławska 24b, tel. 22 848 0060, pl. Inwalidów 10, tel. 22 839 2540, ul. Wspólna 35, Tel. 22 628 1825, www.dzikiryz.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. Varied Asian cuisine with dishes from India, Thailand, China and Japan in a very charming setting. All locations of Dziki Ryż are popular and you’ll most likely need a reservation. $ Dżonka (D5) ul. Hoża 54, tel. 22 621 5015. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat & Sun 11:00-17:00. You say Thai and he says Chinese. You say somewhere graceful and he says nowhere showy. You say not too pricey and he says not too shoestring. Then sail into Dżonka. $ Galeria Bali & Buddha Bar (D3) ul. Jasna 22, tel. 22 828 6771, www.galeriabali.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Galeria Bali offers an extensive menu based on exotic seafood, vegetables, spices and other specialites imported straight from Indonesia. Boasts an entirely Balinese kitchen staff and genuine artifacts from Bali, Burma and Java. $$ Herezja (A3) ul. Chłodna 35/37, tel. 503 074 175, www.herezja.com. Open Sun-Thurs 12:0023:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-3:00. This exotic locale lies off the beaten track in Warsaw’s central Wola district. A seasonal labyrinth of rooms decked out with elegant furnishings from all over Asia. Great for private parties.

Hong Kong House (A6) ul. Filtrowa 70 (pl. Narutowicza), tel. 22 658 0068. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. Good food

Loving Hut (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 41A, tel. 888 555 568, www.lovinghut.waw.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. At first glance you may dismiss it as another Vietnamese greasy spoon. Big mistake.

It turns out this is the Warsaw branch of a global chain backed by a spiritual master (Chiang Hai). The reading material may look a bit cultish, but the food is delicious. $ Maharaja Thai (D1) ul. Szeroki Dunaj 13, tel. 22 635 2501.

Open daily 12:30-23:00. This Thai restaurant in the Old Town is one of the most authentic and most romantic. Great green curries in a tucked-away, magical location.

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Natara (B3) Al. Solidarności 129/131, tel. 666 101 500.

Open 10:00-22:00. With a few wilting orchids and some symbolic pics of Buddha this bi-level restaurant won’t be in the running for any style prizes. The food is spot-on though, and after a brief panic during which we considered ordering everything – it all sounds so good – the Insider settled for duck in wine and a classic green curry. The results were outstanding: rich, velvety flavors and complex tastes. $$ The Oriental (E5) The Sheraton Hotel, ul. B. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6705. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-15:00, 18:00-23:00; Sat 18:00-23:00; Sun 12:0016:00 (brunch). Dark, intimate and very quiet hotel restaurant serving Thai, Philippine, Singaporean and Japanese dishes. The waiters are well versed in what the menu offers, so trust their recommendations. $$$ BEST WAWA 2011 “Sunday Brunch” Winner >>

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EATING OUT >> Papaya (E4) ul. Foksal 16, tel. 22 826 1199, www.papaya.waw.pl. Open daily 12:0024:00. Papaya’s uncluttered, contemporary club-style space is classy with hints of luxury imparted by the strategically placed, top-notch cognac and sparkling wine. The Pan-Asian menu favors Thai and Japanese, but there’s also Chinese dim sum and Peking Duck. $$ Pekin (C2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 4804, www.restauracjapekin.pl. Open daily 12:0023:00. For a culinary trip to Beijing, you need only go as far as Pekin. The interior is a bit basic, but the food is usually very good. $$ Sayam (Konstancin) ul. Sienkiewicza 5, tel. 22 756 3343, www.sayam.pl. Open daily 12:00-22:00.

A tropical treasure in the heart of Konstancin – Sayam serves up some satisfying pan-Asian cuisine in thoroughly fresh, modern interiors.

The summer garden is the perfect place to while away the weekends for adults and kids alike. Definitely try the sticky ribs and spring rolls. Also offers cooking classes. $$ Sunanta Thai Restaurant (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2216, www.sunanta.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-21:00. Small but perfectly formed interiors and a menu that’s widely hailed by Thai devotees. The green beef curry is outstanding. $$ Suparom Thai (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 45/49, tel. 22 627 1888, www.suparomthaifood.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. Lovely interior with Siamese gold ornaments and gleaming dark wood. The shrimp cakes are always worth a try. $$ Suparom Thaifood II ul. Wałbrzyska 40, tel. 22 853 3087, www. suparomthaifood.pl. Tiny, when compared to its parent on Marszałkowska, and distinctly unassuming. Suparom’s green curry is the ‘best in the world’ according to one reader, and while such a superlative begs for a challenge, none is forthcoming – not from us, anyhow. $$ Tien-Tien (C2) ul. Długa 29, tel./fax 022 635 3888.

Open daily 10:00-22:00. A stained and seedy haunt that will look immediately familiar to readers who’ve strayed before

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inside Warsaw’s Vietnamese joints. Some rate the food - we don’t. $ Toan Pho (D4) ul. Chmielna 5/7, tel. 888 147 307. Mon-Fri 9:30-23:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00. Toan Pho’s bowls of soup with rice noodles come highly recommended; as does the chaos intrinsic to this type of casual Asian eatery. The short menu is in Vietnamese with Polish decoding – although you can ask for an English version.

Tobaya (B3) ul. Ogrodowa 58, tel. 22 520 2222, www.tobaya.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Inside it’s like a trip to the Far East. ToBaYa stands for To – for Tokyo because you’ll find great sushi and claypots here (same proprietor as So-An sushi on Koszykowa St.), Ba – for Bangkok and the flavorful dishes of Thailand, and Ya – for Yakarta, with rare Indonesian culinary treats.

Top choice for two: Pla Prik-Waan a.k.a royal gilthead baked in hot-and-sour sauce.

Yummy (D5) ul. Wilcza 20. Open 10:00-22:00. As the name notes, guests can look forward to tasty Asian fare with a strong Vietnamese accent. Interiors are modern and minimal, and a welcome withdrawal from the sleazy style common in most Asian haunts. The Peking duck is a strong starter, and the Pho soups are fab. $

balkan & russian

Banja Luka (E8) ul. Puławska 101, tel. 22 854 0782, www.banjaluka.pl. Open daily 12:00-24:00.

Summer’s gone, and with it one of the best gardens around. Instead, enjoy a variety of dishes from Croatia and Serbia inside interiors typical of the hunter’s hut style. It’s a bustling place mind, and reservations are advised. $$ Babooshka (E3) ul. Oboźna 9, lok. 102, tel. 22 406 3366; ul.

Krucza 41/43, tel. 22 625 1040, www.babooshka.pl. Open 10:00-22:00.

This is one of those places that you enter knowing straight away that you want more. Try the bacon-and-tomato-scented Solanka soup and the pielmieni “Moskiewskie.” $ Mała Gruzja (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 40, tel. 660 880 724, www.mala-gruzja.pl. Open daily 12:00-23:00.

Indulge in great Gregorian dishes in this quaint restaurant. The saciwi walnut sauce is sure to make a lasting impression, though the wines leave something to be desired. $

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updates

U Madziara ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 620 1423, www.umadziara.pl. Open 11:00-21:00.

Looking at it you wouldn’t expect much, but there’s a reason the homely U Madziara has won the applause of Maciej Nowak – Poland’s toughest food critic. That reason is Gabor, a top chef who’s happy to join customers for a drink… but only after he’s done the biz in the kitchen. The salmon tartar is a great starter, but nothing compared to his signature goulash. Good luck finding a better deal in Warsaw. $

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Varna ul. Lwowska 4, tel. 22 468 8792. Open 12:00-last guest.There’s a few Bulgarian joints in town, but none that look this good; decorated with rich, ruby colors and Balkan embroidery the interiors are primed for an all-singing Balk-fest. The menu is cheap and cheerful, with the full list of hearty, homey classics. The musaka is peerless. $

british

Fish & Chips (D6) ul. Koszykowa 30, www.fishandchips.pl.

Open Mon-Fri 11:30-21:00; Sun 13:0019:00. One of the ex-pat hits of 2011, and now suitably enlarged to cope with the custom. Serving fish’n’chips, battered sausage and all the staples of a dart players diet, the Anglophiles running this joint have it down to a tee – with the menu even including deep fried Mars Bars and Snickers. Even better, they’ve a range of import goodies that run from novelty sauces to West Country cider (see food shops for more details). $ Kogel Mogel ul. Powstańców Śląskich 106/lok5, tel. 22 408 1101, www.restauracjakogelmogel. pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat 11:0023:00; Sun 11:00-21:00. Excellent English breakfasts, but why do they stop serving them so early? Does the specialist breakfast maker go home with the sausages?? Small on the inside, this place has black and white accents and post-modern touches, as well as an international menu with Brit contributions: the rhubarb crumble is excellent.

Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640, www.legendsbar.pl. Open 12:00-last guest.

It’s a British pub first and foremost, but don’t forego the kitchen either. The all-day

BALKAN/BRITISH/FRENCH/GREEK breakfast is a great way to stoke up your drinking powers, while other dishes of note inc. pies, sausages and mash and, of course, fish and chips. $$

french

Bistro de Paris – Michel Moran (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 22 826 0107, www.restaurantbistrodeparis.com. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00. Bistro de Paris has always won the highest accolades from reviewers ranging from the Insider to Michelin. Here the food is exquisite, dynamic and flawless; whilst the service itself shines through all on its own. Perfect for dinner with the boss or wining and dining clients. $$ L’Arc (E8) ul. Puławska 16, tel. 503 171 682, www.larc. pl. Open 10:00-last guest. An elegant white/ black eatery with elaborate plate presentations and crustaceans lurking in the water tank – the house specialty is lobster, and they’ve got it to a tee. $$

La Petite France (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 28, tel. 22 622 9646, www.lapetitefranceneostrada.pl. Has a very respectable selection of cheese – from soft to hard varieties. $$

Willa Borówka Hotel & Restaurant (Milanówek) ul. Królowej Jadwigi 5, tel. 22 425 3881, www.willaborowka.pl. Restaurant opens Mon 17:00-last guest; Tue-Sun 12:00- last guest. A wonderland outside of Warsaw. This Prowansja (E6) beautifully-restored manor offers a wonderul. Koszykowa 1, tel. 22 621 4258, fully rich atmosphere and wonderful Belgian www.prowansja.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; and French cuisine with delicious beers like Sun 13:00-23:00. No need to go to a French cot- the Blanche de Namur. $$ tage, the calming atmosphere and great food is right here. The dishes are very imaginative in their combination of various flavors. $$ Bar Turecki “Efes”(H4) Saint Jacques (D4) ul. Francuska 1, tel. 22 616 2580. Open daily ul. Świętokrzyska 34, tel. 22 620 2531, 10:00-20:00. So it’s a kebab shop, but when www.saintjacques.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. the kebabs are this good they’re well worth Warsaw’s had a long and lingering liaison the listing. Either join the queue outside, or with France, yet the cuisine remains under- head indoors to sample the smattering of represented. This bistro plays the right notes grill food and salads. $ with an intimate interior sprinkled with street signs and life-size black and whites of El Greco (B3) distant day Paris. The lamb shank is a winner, ul. Grzybowska 9, tel. 22 654 0458. Open and the mussels do more than enough to 11:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-23:00. The distract from the construction catastrophe grapevine was right – there’s a new Greek clunking outside. in town and it’s the best of the bunch; the >>

greek & middle eastern

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EATING OUT >>souvlaki are ace and the interiors modern, intimate and a pleasant departure from the Greek caricature. Plate smashing allowed and encouraged. $$

you full and happy and is served fast enough at lunchtime to keep up with your schedule. Now throws Orient-inspired dance parties every weekend for Bangla fans. $$

Fenicja (C4) ul. Świętokrzyska 32, tel. 510 759 795, www. fenicja.pl. Open 10:00-24:00 (kebab window 24hrs). Bathed in a cheap green glow you just don’t expect a restaurant of this caliber in such a low-budget setting. But it’s excellent, with an encyclopedic choice of eastern dishes enjoyed by hunched Lebanese natives whispering over plates of hummus. The locals though, seem to prefer the 24hr kebab window, home of the best post-pub soakage imaginable. $

Maho (Ochota) Al. Krakowska 240/242, tel. 22 609 1548, www.maho.com.pl. Open 10:00-23:00.

Found in that office/residential grey zone of Ochota, Maho looks more like a drive-thru burger joint from the outside. So it’s surprising to find some of the best skewered meats in Warsaw in this Turkish locale. Basic interiors but great food and well-stocked deli. $

Le Cedre (F1) Al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166, www.lecedre.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00.

With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops. $$ Lokanta (C4) ul. Nowogrodzka 47a, tel. 22 585 1004, www.lokanta.home.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00last guest. The restaurant has built up its reputation of serving good-quality, traditional Turkish cuisine. The döner kebab will leave

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Meltemi (Ochota) Corner of ul. Drawska and ul. Szczęśliwicka, tel. 22 823 9868. Open daily 12:00-23:00.

Serving a nouveau take on Greek, expect presentation over size, but it’s a fine escape from routine whenever you can’t get to the real thing. $$ Restauracja Flios (Ursynów) ul. Dereniowa 6, tel. 22 648 4589, www.restauracjaflios.pl. Open daily 12:0023:00. The décor is OTT, but there’s little to complain about when it comes to the food.

Excellent appetizers – zesty pikilia, stuffed grape leaves, meat cutlets and some of the best fried eggplant around. $$$ Samira (C7) Al. Niepodległości 213 (behind the National Library), tel. 22 825 0961, www.samira. pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 12:00-

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18:00. If you make the effort to find it, you’ll spot ambassadors, celebrities and artists scarfing down their excellent Lebanese kofta. Here you will find chickpeas, tahini paste, bulgar wheat, grape leaves, rose and orange flower water. Fresh cheese (Lebanese and Bulgarian) can be bought by weight from the deli counter. $ Santorini (Saska Kępa) ul. Egipska 7, tel. 22 672 0525, www.kregliccy.pl/santorini.php. Open daily 12:00-23:00. Forgetting the rather dubious exterior, Santorini – decorated like a Greek fishermans tavern – remains one of the top restaurants of its ethnic class. The lamb chops are fab, but for a real plate licking experience order the milfei as dessert. $$ Tawerna Patris Miedzeszyński 407, tel. 22 357 11 11, www.tawernapatris. pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00.

Looking dusty and disheveled from the outside, Tawerna surprises everyone who visits. Decorated with white plaster walls and pics of Greek harbor towns, the seafood starters are something else. It’s impossible to judge what’s better: the mussels in tarragon or the marinated octopus.

With prices this moderate, we suggest you order both. A fantastic place for a lively group dinner. $$

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updates

indian

Annapurna (B5) ul. Twarda 56, tel. 22 409 4400. Open 11:3022:00. Bland, sterile interiors have ceded way for typical curryhouse furnishings, lending a real authenticity to one of Warsaw’s best curries. The vindaloo hits a red-hot emergency level that’s unrivaled in town, and the offer extends to Thai, Nepalese and a sprinkling of Chinese.

Arti (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 121/123, tel. 22 626 9002, www.restauracjaarti.pl. Open daily 11:00-22:30. An exhaustive selection of largely excellent Indian dishes inside a low-cost interior in the center of town. Better surroundings but the same quality are found in their ul. Francuska operation across the water. $ Bombaj Masala (B3) ul. Starościńska 10/12, tel. 22 392 6475, www.bombajmasala.pl. A tiny backstreet curry cave in which guests sit shoulder-toshoulder while pots clang in the distance.

The food is top quality, and the prices fair.

And those looking for something a little more high-end should swerve this and instead check their new venue on Jana Pawła (see below). $$ Bombaj Masala Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 606 688 777.

Open 11:00-23:00. A definite applicant for Poland’s best looking Indian, and instantly superior to Warsaw’s more shabby curry houses. The tikka masala is love at first bite, though the spice lever on the Madras needs jacking up.

INDIAN/INTERNATIONAL Ganesh Express ul. Grzybowska 61, www.ganeshexpress. pl. Open 10:30-22:30. While their flagship on Wilcza ranks as one of Warsaw’s best curries, find the polar opposite within a hop of the Hilton. Spooned out of canteen-style containers the food here is catastrophic, so the fact the servings are so small is actually a blessing in disguise. Ganesh Express? More like Total Ga- -sh Express. $

version on Nowogrodzka, and a (very) slightly more upmarket offering in Old Town. $ Saffron Spices (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 3, www.saffronspices.pl. Open 11:00-20:00. With the revamp complete and the builders gone, diners can now concentrate on good Indian standards in a cosmopolitan interior. Some claim it’s emerging as one of the top curries in town, a once optimistic opinion that’s fast gathering pace. $

India Curry (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 438 9350, www.indiacurry.pl.

Open daily 11:00-23:00.

Under new management, Warsaw’s most upmarket Indian restaurant is the corporate choice for when suits want it hot. Never short of excellent, the prawn curries are something else.

Katmandu (C5) ul. Wspólna 50/52, tel. 22 622 0026.

Open Mon-Fri 11:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:0023:00. Nepalese, Thai and Indian dishes inside a no-effort, bare bones interior.

But the curries are good, and occasionally excellent; set fire to your tonsils with a chicken madras. $ Maharaja India (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 34/50, tel. 22 621 1392, www.maharaja.pl. Open daily 12:00-23:00.

A bedraggled looking old-timer set inside some showpiece Soviet concrete. Oily, unstimulating curries are the order of the day, so it’s surprising to learn the butter chicken is amongst the best in the city. $$

Buddha (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 23, tel. 22 826 3501, www.buddha.info.pl. Open daily 11:0023:00. The days of the Raj are recreated in Buddha, a fine-looking curry house with intricate interiors and top-drawer curries. The murgh masala jhodphur is our favorite, a bottom burning curry that appears as ‘ouch’ on the spice scale. $

Mandala (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 9/11, tel. 662 019 666, www.mandalaklub.com or www.indiaexpress.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:0022:00; Sun 13:00-21:00 While it caters to a party crowd in the evening, this place is run

by Nepalese chef Prakash and features a menu of authentic treats throughout the day and evening. Also offers delivery through its India Express catering service. $

Ganesh (D5) ul. Wilcza 50/52, tel. 22 623 0266, www.ganesh.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. When the service isn’t clanking around, dropping things or misplacing orders, they’re weaving between tables delivering what’s a definite candidate for Poland’s top curry. Inconsistencies abound, but the Madras is superb and the interiors chic, dark and moody. $

Namaste India (D1, D5) ul. Piwna 12/14, ul. Nowogrodzka 27, tel. 22 696 3856, www.namasteindia.pl.

Open Mon-Thur 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:0004:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. If waiting times are anything to go by this is quite probably the most popular curry in town, and yes, pretty much everything they make is of gold star standard. Find the original, more modest

international & fusion

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12 Stolików (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 519 151 504. Open 9:0023:00. Affecting a chichi style, the look here is clean, crisp and scattered with lifestyle titles and autumn leaves. And forming the central element is the kitchen – yes, here’s a place that embraces the credos that cooking should be theater. The menu comes chalked up on a board, and while the alio olio was a little overcooked, the big guns were out for the steak – fabulous. Definitely one to watch. $$ Angelo (E5) ul. Wilcza 8, tel. 22 622 4454, www.bacio.pl. Open Sun-Thur 10:00-last guest; Fri & Sat 11:00-last guest. With a charming folklore interior, the candlelight will lead you into a world of sweet romance.

The delicate antipasti and Italian merlot will certainly ease you into good conversation. $$ Babalu (F1) ul. Kłopotowskiego 33, tel. 22 424 6666, www.babalu.pl. Open noon-23:00. Warsaw’s first all-you-can eat locale. You pay zł. 29,99 per person and enjoy a salad and fruit bar, grilled ribs or other meats, a pick-your-owningredients flaming wok, an endless selection of pastas and sauces, dumplings from around the world, reasonable drink prices, and a children’s play area. Catering available too. $ Bistecca ul. Branickiego 11, tel. 22 258 1243, www. bistecca.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. A warm and welcoming meat-themed restaurant, featuring one of the largest pieces of steak we’ve ever seen. But if you don’t fancy being chef for the night, stay away from the mixed grill – after a few moments of confusion we realized we were meant to finish the cooking process ourselves; a novel idea, but not what we had in mind when we went out for the evening. $$ Boathouse (G4) ul. Wał Międzeszyński 389a,

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EATING OUT >> tel. 22 616 3331, www.boathouse.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:0022:00. For the supersize treatment head to Boathouse, a leviathan restaurant set in three acres of riverside parkland – perfect for lazy Sundays with family and friends. Freshly re-opened after a winter break, during which time Chef Luc has traveled the Mediterranean sourcing the best ingredients and snooping out new recipes. $$ Brasserie@ferdy’s (C3) ul. Grzybowska 24 (in the Radisson Hotel), tel.

22 321 8822. Open daily 12:00-23:00. Vegetarians will go hungry here, but carnivores will be in meaty heaven. Get the blackened chicken with thick-cut Gaucho fries – fantastic. $$ Butchery & Wine (D5)

ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 502 3118, www.butcheryandwine.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00. The steaks are beyond reproach inside B&W, a light, bright restaurant which you imagine both celebs and execs using – both mammals were present on our visit. And if the butchery part is spot on, so is the wine angle.

Trust the service, they know what’s best. $$ C.K. Oberża (D4) ul. Chmielna 28, tel. 22 828 4585, www.ckoberza.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-24:00. A wood-looking eatery where towering plates of food present considerable challenge to carnivore appetites – come hungry. All the basic culinary needs are covered, while the Cesarska Deska Mięs features practically every animal to ever come out the wrong end of an abattoir. $$ Deco Kredens (D4) ul. Ordynacka 13, tel. 22 826 0660, www.kredens.com.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 11:00-last guest.

Elegant and ornate, but the menu is a tool of deception - the final results are nowhere near as tasty as they sound. $$ Downtown Restaurant (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental Hotel, level 2), tel. 22 328 888. Open daily for Breakfast 6:30-10:30; Mon-Fri Business Lunch 12:00-15:00, Sat Lunch 12:00-15:00, Sunday Brunch 12:30-16:00. Dinner 17:30-22:00 every Mon-Thurs. There’s now a few candidates for Warsaw’s best steak, and Downtown have certainly upped the erm, stakes, with their new menu. Appealing to the serious spender, the US Longhorn (a cool zł. 185) is utterly unforgettable. Try it with orange whiskey sauce. $$$

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Delikatesy Esencja ul. Marszałkowska 8, tel. 22 480 8018, www.delies.pl. Open 8:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 8:00-2:00; Sun 8:00-23:00. A long, narrow space that’s a mix of bar, restaurant and ‘culture’ cafe – only this looks better than most. No second hand collectibles here, just a cool look accented by concrete colors and overhead pipes. The menu is a creative, light bite affair with dishes like gyutataki served to a hip crowd who’ve outgrown nearby Plan B. Etno ul. Grzybowska 5A, tel. 22 564 5780, www.etnoerestauracja.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. Looking rather sterile and anonymous, it’s no surprise to find Etno’s scattering of customers consisting of the grey-looking number crunchers from the offices upstairs. While it’s not exactly light on the wallet, the lunch deals make it more than worthwhile – a selected starter and main for 20-something zlots. $$ Flaming & Co. (E6) ul. Chopina 5, tel. 22 628 8140, www.flaming-co.com. Open 7:30-24:00.

Soon celebrating their first birthday, Flaming are being touted as one of the best places in town. In fact, some insiders claim it the best. Find a strong international offer inside interiors that could have been styled by Ralph Lauren. $$ Freta 33 (C1) ul. Freta 33/35, tel. 22 635 0931. Open 12:0023:00. Tasty dishes at reasonable prices.

Enjoy the beautiful view over the New Town Square through floor-to-ceiling windows. The pasta and salads are surprisingly tasty. $$ Fusion (B4) Westin Hotel, Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8631. Open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, 12:00-22:30; Sat & Sun 7:00-10:30, 12:00-22:30. A stylish restaurant that’s best recognized for its seriously good brunches.

See for yourself each Sunday, when zł. 165 gets you unlimited access to some top-range F&B. Turn up on Thursday night for a similar offer that’s focused on fish. $$$ Ginger (D4) ul. Zgoda 12, tel. 22 827 3003, www.ginger.com.pl. Open 24hr. The tropical interior would have looked great in the 80’s, nowadays it doesn’t. Who cares – it’s open round-the-clock, and design shortcomings can be overlooked when it’s five in the

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morning. International menu, with a fusion twist. $$ Green Peas ul. Szpitalna 5, tel. 22 826 1985, www.greenpeas.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:0020:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-20:00.With Ye Goode Foode nuked into touch, it’s been left to Green Peas to wave the eco-flag. Featuring vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free meals, it’s a well-rounded, health conscious offer here – probably the healthiest in the city.

Low cal and low cost inside a greenish, cafeteria style space. $ Grill & Co (B9) ul. Żaryna 2B (Milllennium Park, Building C), tel. 22 646 0045, www.grill-co.com. Open 12:00-last guest. Featuring plexiglass seats and clean, dark woods this place could easily be mistaken as one of the trend dens on Mazowiecka. A top (m)eatery, the filet mignon is perfect, and served with generous sides. Prices, too, are pleasingly moderate. $$ H3 Gourmet Burger (C12) Galeria Mokotów, ul. Wołoska, www.h3.com.

Open 10:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-21:00.

Okay, so it’s in a food court, but H3 are a million times superior to the immediate neighbors. Part of a Portuguese chain, bunless burgers come in a variety of choices: including one with an egg on it (eek!). Go for the mushroom one instead. $ Jazz Bistro Gwiazdeczka (D2) ul. Piwna 40, tel. 22 887 8764. Open daily 10:00-last guest ( the kitchen closes at 24:00). With a medieval yet chic décor, this charming restaurant in the Old Town is, among some others, a good choice. $$ Kultura ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 22/23, tel.

784 044 051. Open 11:00-23:00.

An initiative from the connecting artsy cinema. Looking slick and polished, creative effect is added by the use of colorful umbrella-style lights, while away from the frontline find the hard work done by the former chef at Dyspensa. And yes, it’s a dream team in the kitchen, with desserts and cakes fixed by those who made Café Misianka the legend it is. $$ La Rotisserie (C1) ul. Kościelna 12 (Le Régina Hotel), tel. 22 531 6000, www.leregina.com.

Open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, 12:00-23:00;

INTERNATIONAL Sat & Sun 7:00-11:00,12:00-23:00. Cooking becomes art in La Rotisserie, an impeccable restaurant with a sterling rep. Bossing it all is Paweł Oszczyk, a doyenne of the local culinary scene, and his interpretations of French cuisine prove second-to-none. $$$ Likus Concept Store (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18, tel. 22 492 7409, www.likusconceptstore.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00. This former bath house is adorned by columns and hand-painted glazed ceramics. A fine menu of fusion fare with an ‘artsy flair’ is guaranteed, with creative desserts to follow with. Over 300 Italian wine labels (not to mention tipples from Spain, France and Austria), as well a selection of cigars make Concept a number one choice for that all important meal. $$$ Marconi (D3) Le Meridien Bristol Hotel, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1823. Open daily: 6:30-10:30, 12:30-16:30, 18:00-23:00.

Sunday brunch: 12:30-16:30. Sun-kissed and flavorful – the quality at the Bristol’s Mediterranean-style restaurant is just what you’d expect from one of Warsaw’s top hotels – excellent. $$$ Merliniego 5 (E10) Restaurant and Wine Bar, ul. Merliniego 5, tel. 22 646 0849, www.merliniego.pl. Set up like a New York bistro, Merliniego 5 is a cross between a whisky bar and steakhouse. It’s sophisticated, but not snooty and has some truly excellent steak and salad.

Meza Restaurant (A4) ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton Hotel). Open daily 6:30-23:00. The décor is decent and the service is very good but the food is wonderful – try the fettucini with king prawns in Chopin vodka. The Meza chocolate cake, warm and oozing liquid fudge is the most delectable bit. $$

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Moonsfera ul. Wybrzeże Gdyńskie 4, tel. 22 560 3733, www.moonsfera.pl. Open 12:00-23:00.

The roof terrace aside, Moonsfera’s many glories include a creative menu honed by a team who clearly enjoys the odd experiment.

And my, the menu reads like a love letter: grilled sirloin marinated in bison grass, dressed with cream of liver and chestnut crumble... Mmmm. $$ Nowa Kuźnia ul. Stanisława Kostki-Potockiego 24, tel. 794 16 019, www.nowakuznia.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Mere steps from Wilanów’s 18th Century church, this former blacksmiths passes muster with excellent steak and a cocktail list invented by Richard Winkler – former mastermind of Paparazzi and Porto Praga. The fish too is fantastic and fresh, meaning even without their clincher – the summer garden – it’s very much a destination to follow. $$ BEST WAWA 2011 “Kid Friendly” Winner Opasły Tom (E4) ul. Foksal 17, tel. 22 621 1881. Open 10:0023:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-23:00. Are you in a restaurant or inside a book shop? The mind

plays tricks in Opasły, the latest venture from the Kregliccy family (Santorini, Chianti etc).

Filled with hardback volumes and newspaper clippings, this trendy Foksal spot features a concise menu that includes chili shrimp. $$ Papu (D9) Al. Niepodległości 132/136, tel. 22 856 7788, www.restauracjapapu.pl. Open daily 10:00last guest. The elegant décor, complimented by fantastic staff, all combine to make this a relaxing and romantic experience. $$$ Passe Partout (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 21, tel. 22 616 2882, www.passepartout.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22.00. The diverse, international menu has in its number some delicious ribs in BBQ sauce. The interiors are pleasant and non-offensive, though pale in comparison when put head-to-head with the garden; a lush sanctuary, it’s one of the best around. $$ Piony Poziomy (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 21/25 (enter on ul. Oleandrów), tel. 22 406 4496, www.pionypoziomy.pl. Open 12:00-23:00.

Consisting of creative Mediterranean dishes, the menu is packed with what can only be described as culinary revelations. It’s got a welcome atmosphere, something squared off by relaxing background music and a friendly staff. The food is excellent, not a weak point to criticize, and perfectly complimented by a price/quality ratio that’s >> too good for words.

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EATING OUT >> Platter by Karol Okrasa (C4) InterContinental Hotel, ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8734, www.platter.pl. Open 12:00-16:00,17:30-23:00. The hotel has roped in celebrity chef Karol Okrasa to head their revamped dining room. As a temple of nouveau Polish, the new layout isn’t a dramatic change from the previous occupant, Frida Restaurant - but the food is faultless.

In particular, the herb garden salad with prawns comes immaculately groomed. An already excellent experience has been raised to talking point level. $$$ Porto Praga (F1) ul. Stefana Okrzei 23, tel. 22 698 5001, www.portopraga.pl. Open Mon-Thur 12:001:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 12:00-24:00.

Bathed in rich, ruby shades and Art Deco swirls, PP looks classy and elegant yet never too formal. Different species of Warsaw life happily co-exist here, enjoying a revamped menu courtesy of chef Marcin Wojtczak. The cocktails are amazing as well – Bloody Mary is our standard bar-ometer, and here it passes the test with flying colors. $$$ Qchnia Artystyczna (E6) Zamek Ujazdowski, Al. Jazdów 2, tel. 22 625 7627, www.qchnia.pl.

Open 12:00-24:00. Suitably artistic eatery with imaginative dishes, lots for vegetarians, and a lovely park view from the terrace. $$ BEST WAWA 2011 “First Date” Winner

R20 (F5-6) ul. Rozbrat 20, tel. 22 628 0295.

Open 07:30-22:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-22:00.

This top-notch, casually elegant restaurant offers a concise, tantalizing selection of food with signature recipes from the head chef.

Strongly recommended is the mouth-watering baked duck with orange and homemade ravioli. $$-$$$ Restauracja 99 (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 22 620 1999, www.restaurant99.com. Open Mon-Thurs 8:00-23:00; Fri 8:00-24:00; Sat 15:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. The feeding trough of the business class. Back sporting a futuristic look, 99 have been pleasing diners since opening in the 90’s. The good news is they’re better than ever, with a modern international menu that includes one of the finest steaks in town, and the perfect margarita. $$

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Restaurant Strauss (C4) Polonia Palace Hotel, Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. 22 318 2834, www.strauss.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-16:00; 18:00-22:30; Sat-Sun 18:00-22:30. The owners tell us that they’ve totally revamped not only the interior, but also the menu and it now sports European cuisine. $$ Sense (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 19, tel. 22 826 6570, www.sensecafe.com.pl. Open Sun-Thur 12:0024:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-02:00. Fusion food, top cocktails and the restobar concept: it all started here, or at least it did where Warsaw is concerned. Years on and Sense is still a market leader, with a menu that’s perfect bait for the hot lookers who come here – try the flame-grilled lamb chops, or one of several wok choices. $$ Sofa Clubistro (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 28 (entrance from ul. Nowogrodzka 56), tel. 22 626 1415, www.sofa.waw.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-24:00; Sat 13:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. Take jazz, soften the edges and mix it with exotic food.

The result is Sofa. Excellent Panzerotti with artichokes and amazing ice-cream. $$ Solec (F4) ul. Solec 44, tel. 798 363 996, www.solec.waw.pl. Open Tue-Sun 12:00-last guest; Mon 16:00-last guest. The minimalist and laid-back interior comes courtesy of Martin Walli, a Swiss-Polish game freak, and kitchen guru Aleksander Baron. The casual bistro-cum-bar they built is a reflection of their passions, a place serving up a small, daily-changing menu of soul foods made from fresh, seasonally appropriate ingredients, complimented by a massive selection of board games, cards and logic puzzles... $ Spotkanie (Żoliborz) ul. Krasińskiego 2, tel. 22 839 3069, www.spotkanie.com.pl. Open 12:00-23:00.

Stylish, low-key décor, delicious, light salads and decent mains – the Romanov beef steak in mushroom and pepper sauce is simply excellent. $$ St. Antonio (D2) ul. Senatorska 37, tel. 22 826 3008, www.stantonio.pl. Open Tues-Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun-Mon 12:00-24:00. Popular among business negotiators and Polish VIPs, the place gets high marks for offering fresh and tasty Mediterranean dishes as well as seasonal Polish delicacies amidst Laura Ashley décor. $$

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Studio Buffo (E5) ul. M. Konopnickiej 6, tel. 22 339 0775, www.studiobuffo.com.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:3023:00; Sat & Sun 13:00-23:00. Famous for its shows, Studio Buffo should not be forgotten for its food. It’s a popular place with arty types, and the menu offers tasty mains. $$ Tamka 43 (E3) ul. Tamka 43, tel. 22 441 6234, www.tamka.43.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 10:00-23:00. With a location looking at the Chopin Museum you may assume this place is all about boring food at tourist prices. Wrong. Chic and shiny, and with a cool glass frontage, chef Robert – a veteran of the El Bulli kitchen – does the rest with delicate dishes that could pass for art. $$ Theatro Fusion Restaurant ul. Foksal 18, www.theatro1811.com.

Open 12:00-23:00. The menu is a balance of international influences, and includes a selection of ‘Thai pasta’ and a lovely creation called Chicken Barbara. Finally open after what seems like a year of work, the elaborate interiors reflect the Foksal location. $$$ U Kucharzy (D3) ul. Ossolińskich 7, tel. 22 826 7936, www.gessler.pl. Open 12:00-24:00.

Literally translated as ‘with the cooks’, you find yourself in the thick of the action here, with diners planted in the kitchen area of the former Hotel Europejski. There’s a great atmosphere of orchestrated chaos here, with food served straight from the pots. Some are calling this the best meal in Warsaw, and it’s certainly up there…. even if the cocktails aren’t. $$ BEST WAWA 2011 “Restaurant Design” Winner Valadier (C9) ul. Łowicka 16, tel. 22 224 5454, www.valadier.pl. Open daily 12:00-23:00.

Set in an elegant mansion this aristocratic choice comes fronted by Paweł Żółtanski, and he’s mixed French, Italian and Polish styles to come up with an exclusive menu that reads like a royal banquet: guinea fowl, pigeon and quail to name just some examples. $$$ Villa Czersk (Czersk) ul. Warszawska 23, tel. 22 736 2188, www.villaczersk.pl. Open 12:00-last guest.

Found 30 clicks south of Warsaw, VC gets a spoonful of extra points for setting; a mock Tuscan villa in walking distance from the ruined castle in Czersk. Ideal following a

INTERNATIONAL/ITALIAN visit to the aforementioned, this restaurant has a formal air and an important sounding internationa/Mediterranean menu that specializes in fish – make sure to try the mussels, they are fantastic. $$ Villa Foksal (E4) ul. Foksal 3/5, tel. 22 827 8716, www.restauracjavillafoksal.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 13:00-last guest.

The pasta is filling, and probably deserves its reputation as some of the best in Warsaw. It comes as no surprise that they are often fullybooked. Check out one of the best summer gardens in the city. $$ Ye Goode Foode ul. Zamiany 12, tel. 22 254 4025. Open 11:00-last guest. YGF are back, this time in an off-center location in the middle of the ’burbs.

Making use of unrefined oils and organic produce these guys take their cooking seriously – even the soups are made from spring water. The menu might not be as extensive as before, but it’s not a bad shout if you’re in the hood. $$

You and Me (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 379 0379, www.youandmebar.pl. Open Mon-Thur 8:3024:00; Fri 8:30-2:00, Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 12:00-24:00. Serving up a pretty attractive selection of food. The interiors of this café/bar look very modern, and the bold crimson decor makes it a hot spot for a date. $$ Zaułek Smaków – Winiarnia Portius (Żoliborz) ul. Felińskiego 52, tel. 22 839 8681, www.zauleksmakow.com.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. Located in a beautiful area in old Żoliborz, it offers unique mixture of Hungarian, Italian and Polish cuisine and guarantees something for everyone. $ Zen Jazz Bistro (D3) ul. Jasna 24, tel. 22 447 2500, www.jazzbistro.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00- 24:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-24:00. The menu at Zen Jazz Bistro is rather lengthy, but the dishes are up to the expectation the delectable descriptions create. The tuna steak in teriyaki isn’t great, but everything

else is pretty much on the money. $$ Żużu (D9) ul. Kazimierzowska 43, entrance from ul. Różana, tel. 22 646 4585, www.bistro-zuzu. pl. Open Mon-Sat 13:00-21:00. Żużu is hidden away in Mokotów, but well worth tracking down. The Panga/Sole Fillet served with white and wild rice risotto, saffron sauce and Tian vegetables is an excellent main dish. $

italian

Arsenał (C2) ul. Długa 52, tel. 22 635 8377, www.restauracjaarsenal.pl. Open 10:0023:00. It’s been years since we heard great words about Arse, and while the food remains fine there’s a distinct impression that their finest hour has long since passed.

A great play area for kids, it’s still not a bad option if you’re heading from Old Town with accompanying bambinos. $$ Bacio (D5) ul. Wilcza 43, tel. 22 626 8303, www.bacio.pl. >>

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EATING OUT >> Open Mon-Fri 12:00-24:00; Sat & Sun 13:00-last guest. Handwritten menus yield such goodies as spinach gnocchi and pear in mascarpone. Great pastas too and wine selection. The Bacio chain extends to other locations on Wilcza 8 and Ciszewskiego 15. $$ Bellini (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 21, tel. 22 831 0202, www.restauracjabellini.pl. Open 12:00-23:00.

Queen of cuisine Magda Gessler brings her magic to the realm of Italian cooking with this spacious, enigmatic cellar restaurant just a few doors down from U Fukiera. Brilliant pizzas, especially the signature white pizza, with fresh mozzarella, provolone, rucola, pear slices and pine nuts. $ Castello (Wilanów) ul. Wiertnicza 96, tel. 22 885 7505, www.castello.pl Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. Excellent food. Recommendations include the penne alla norcina and frutti di mare pizza. $$$ Chianti (E4) ul. Foksal 17, tel. 22 828 0222, www.kregliccy.pl/chianti.php. Open 12:0023:00. We recommend trying the salmon pasta, and the tiramisu and pannacotta for dessert. During the week, standards stay high as the chef doles out excellent salads and pasta. $$ Da Aldo ul. Mickiewicza 23, tel. 22 869 0937. Open 12:00-23:00. Head chef Stefano has launched a heap of top name restaurants, and while Da Aldo is a more modest affair, there’s something clearly right in the kitchen. Seafood is recommended here, and with mussels season in full swing you’ve no excuse to miss it. $$ Delizia (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 22 622 6665, www.delizia.com.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:0022:00. Scene of this Insider’s meal of the year, circa 2010. Unassuming at first sight, it takes seconds to notice that something is very, clearly wrong – the tables are full and the diners having fun. There’s two reasons for that, and they’re called Luca and Lorenzo.

Luca is the showman and waiter supreme, while Lorenzo the culinary master behind this much talked-about venue. Fish is their forte, with deliveries from Italy arriving Tuesdays. $$$ Dominos Multiple locations, tel. 22 209 0002,

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www.dominospizza.pl. Open 10:00-23:00.

They’re back! Years after shutting shop the Dominos crew return to Warsaw, and this time they’re better than ever. It’s strictly takeaway/delivery only (unless you count the stand-up table outside), but these guys get listed for what amounts to the best delivered pizza in the history of Poland. $

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Doppio ul. Gałczyńskiego 3, tel. 22 622 1330. www.doppio-senso.pl. Open Tues-Sun 13:00-last guest. Some might call the red and white interiors a little lame – they certainly do little to suggest the greatness in store.

While there’s a good scattering of pasta and mains, the real deal is the pizza; top in the town’s pecking order claim their expanding band of fans. $$ Enoteka (C2) ul. Długa 23/25, tel. 22 831 3443, www.enotekapolska.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-20:00. The menu is updated quarterly and beefed up with the harvests of the season. The house specialises chiefly in Italian labels whose price tags range from “what a deal!” to “worth it for a celebrity splurge.” The minimalsitic rustic interior is just the right spot after a stroll in the neighboring Old Town. $$ Gar Restaurant (D4) ul. Jasna 10, tel. 22 828 2605, www.gar.com.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00.

The Polish-French fusion of Gar is gone, replaced with a fun cinematic-themed trattoria.

The pizza pies are excellent with thin-crust and hearty toppings. The hefty prices have slimmed down to an easy zł.12-35 per dish. $ Giancarlo Ristorante Italiano (Służew) ul. Rzymowskiego 34, tel. 22 549 6501, www.giancarlo.pl Open Mon-Sat 12:00- 23:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. Everything you’d expect from an Italian restaurant. Frequented by local restaurant critics and TV cooks, one look at the restaurant’s menu is enough to get you feeling very hungry indeed. Go for the heavenly sole in gorgonzola-spinach sauce. $$$ Giovanni Rubino (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 37, tel. 22 826 2788, www.giovanni.pl. Open daily 11:00-last guest. With satisfying salads and a pretty good thin-crust pizza, Giovanni Rubino is the Insider’s pick for when you’re looking for a quick late-nite bite in the Old Town area. $

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Il Caminetto (Saska Kępa) ul. Zwycięzców 46, tel. 22 672 5596, www.ilcaminetto.pl. Open daily 12:00-23:00.

This unexpected spot houses a fantastic Italian restaurant with authentic pastas and mains. A secret fave among the Italiano set, with the mezzelune dello chef and ravioloni ai quattro formaggi highly recommended. $ La Cantina (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. 22 331 6798, www.lacantina.com.pl. Open 11:00-last guest.

Mediterranean dishes with pastas, seafood and meat dishes and a large variety of pizza from a wood-fired oven. $ La Tomatina (D5) ul. Krucza 47. Open Sun-Thurs 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00. You get the idea not even the A Team can save these guys. They’ve been open for minutes, but have already found themselves universally slammed by bloggers, critics and foodies alike. Surely it can’t be that bad? Watch this space for our verdict next month. $$ Nonsolo Pizza (A6) ul. Grójecka 28/30, tel. 22 824 1273. Open Mon-Sun 12:00-23:00. Design doesn’t figure highly here, instead the onus is on food – the salads are good, but the pizzas even better; maybe even the best in the city. Who says so? Only about a zillion Italians who order from here. $ The Olive (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6706.

Open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, lunch 12:00-16:00; Sat & Sun 7:30-10:30, lunch 12:30-16:30.

Bursting with seasonal fruits and veggies, it’s a fresh, fun place to eat. Business lunch: Mon-Fri 12:00-15:30. Hot and cold buffet for zł.90. $$$ Oregano (Białołęka Dworska) ul. Bohaterów 14, tel. 22 425 5964, www.oregano-restauracja.pl. Open Mon-Thurs & Sun 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00. Just about 25 minutes drive from the center, this lovely villa houses a cozy Italian restaurant with a menu that’s traditional but also very creative, put together by award-winning chef Anna Martynowska. Highly recommended for a weekend brunch/dinner jaunt. $$ Parmizzano’s (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel, Floor 1), tel. 22 630 6306. Open 12:00-23:00.

The prices are highly intimidating, but are offset by cooking that never falls below brilliant. Hotel restaurants get a bad rep, but in

ITALIAN the formal surrounds of Parmiazzano’s diners can expect Italian food at its very best. $$$ Pepperoni (Żoliborz) ul. Krasińskiego 10, tel. 022 839 6961. Open 11:00-23:00. Colourful and stylish pizza parlour with 43 varieties of pizza to choose from, and a selection of pastas, soups and salads. $$ Piccola Italia (Ochota) ul. 1 Sierpnia 46, www.piccolaitalia.pl, tel. 22 846 8737. Open 12:00-23:00. The wood-fired oven brings out some of the best pizza in town, especially for fans of the vegetariana. $ Pizzeria na Barskiej (C6) ul. Barska 37, tel. 22 822 2750. Open daily 12:00-22:00. We’re told that this restaurant serves the best pizza in the city. Check it out and decide for yourself. A wide selection of huge pizzas ensure the return of many patrons. $ Pizzeria na Nowolipkach (B2) ul. Nowolipki 15, tel. 22 498 8877, www.nanowolipkach.pl. Open Mon-Thurs 11:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. A back street haunt that earns its stripes for excellent pizza – but better ring your order, with staff this sour it pays to keep contact minimal. $ Poezja (E5) ul. Książęca 6, tel. 22 622 6762, www.poezja.waw.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:0023:00; Sun 14:00-22:00. The Italian influence is evident in the extravagant menu and a

lovely wine list. Try the garlic cream soup with snails as a starter and get the ink with shrimp as a main. $$ Pomidoro (Konstancin-Jeziorna) Al. Wojska Polskiego 3, tel. 22 702 8777.

Open daily 12:00-last guest. An authentic Italian restaurant located in a renovated paper mill. Chef Ricardo whips up some of the best pizzas, pastas and steaks you’ll find in this city. Try the spaghetti alle vongole or the bistecca alla fiorentina for a real taste of Tuscany. $$

Ristorante Il Sole (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 27, tel. 22 653 6484, www.ilsole.com.pl. Open 11:00-24:00.

Cut-price lunch deals draw in suited crowds from the offices upstairs, while modern, cosmopolitan interiors further stroke the corporate feel. The food won’t win prizes – neither will the servers – but it’s not a bad haunt if you’re working locally. $$

Ristorante San Lorenzo (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 36, tel. 22 652 1616, www.sanlorenzo.pl. Open 12:00-last guest.

Quattro Canti Trattoria (Wilanów) Adorned with crisp, starched linen and Roman ul. Syta 120, tel. 509 644 559, frescos this space is almost magisterial in www.quattrocanti.pl. Open daily 12:00-22:00. design. The Tuscan menu is flawless and well Brave the nondescript entrance to enjoy tasty worth the rather hefty bill. The wine bar on the Italian classics in a simple trattoria setting. ground floor features the same standards at a Try the Mafioso pizza, the vitello tonato main snip of the price, and it’s here you’ll find Italand gorgonzola spinach on the side. $ ian natives cheering the Serie A football. $$$ Rimini Pizza (Ursynów) ul. Roentgena 1 (corner of ul. Pileckiego), tel. 22 641 9544, www.rimini.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. The pizzas are made in full view, and they are near-perfect: Italian-style crust, delightful tomato sauce, fresh toppings and just the right amount of cheese. $ Ristorante Balgera (E8) ul. Rejtana 14, tel 022 849 5674, www.balgera.pl.Open 12:00-last guest.

Enjoy succulent and hearty Italian pastas and steaks, sip rich Cabernet Sauvignon and treat your taste buds to a slice of decadent Tiramisu. $$$

Roma (multiple locations) ul. Grottgera 2 (ul.Belwederska 17), ul. Jasna 24, tel. 22 826 7676, www.restauracjaroma.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 14:0021:00. Good food and charming Italianthemed décor – wine bottles and grapevines strewn about this intimate restaurant. Feast on a meaty Boscaiola or Carbonara. A bit kitsch but the prices are good and the staff are sweet. $$ Roma Bukieteria (E5) ul. Mokotowska 49, tel. 22 621 0311, www.restauracjaroma.pl. Open Mon-Sat

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EATING OUT >> 11:00-23:00; Sun 11:00-21:00. If you’re looking for a spot of Mediterranean romance, this is the place. Warm shades of terracotta, wooden interiors and rose petals are the perfect place for a romantic dinner with a special someone. $$ Rusticoni Restaurant (C4) Złote Tarasy, tel. 22 222 0550, www.rusticoni.pl. Italian specialities, right in the heart of Warsaw. Choose from a wide variety of pizzas and pastas, as well as an assortment of meat and fish dishes, and a range of desserts, including home-made tiramisu. $ Sapori d’Italia (Ursynów) ul. Dembego 10 lok. U5, tel. 888 231 030, www.sapori-ditalia.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:0022:00. Recommended dishes include the tuna salad, a vibrant mix of tuna fish, salad, green olives and tomatoes enlivened by a creamy dill sauce and the deliciously tender Dourade fish. The food is well-worth the trip out to this slightly remote restaurant. $$ Trattoria Rucola (H4) ul. Francuska 6, tel. 22 616 1259, www.trattoriarucola.pl. Open 12:00-22:00.

Serving classic Italian favorites including pizza, pasta and risotto, this restaurant has something for everyone.

The Saska Kępa locals already love this place, so reservations are recommended.

Trattoria Rucola na Miodowej ul. Miodowa 1, tel. 888 574 4357, www.trattoriarucola.pl. Open 12:00-22:00.

Firmly established in Saska, Ruccola have expanded to cover the West side. The M.O is very much the same, with huge wall prints of verdant forest scenes, and a menu that impresses across the board – the pizza in particular gets our seal of approval.

Va Bene Ristorante (A9) ul. Pruszkowska 13, tel. 22 824 5060, www.vabene.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. The restaurants offer a traditional Italian menu and the family atmosphere and menu (pizzas, pastas and ice-cream) make this place suitable for both kids and parents. $$ Vapiano (B12) ul. Taśmowa 7, tel. 22 356 1050, www.vapiano.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-23:00. Here’s one chain brand

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that is worth the hype. Featuring a chic look rounded out with Ferrari red colors, the thin crust pizza earns its spurs, and the pasta combinations are great. $$ Venezia (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16, tel. 22 622 1537, www.venezia.com.pl. Open noon-23:00.

What happens when a restaurant hits the skids? They call Magda Gessler, or more specifically her Polski version of Kitchen Nightmares. Reinvented under her guiding hand, Venezia are back with an exciting menu and an informal design that includes Venetian murals and a stone lion. Can Venezia reclaim their reputation?

The grilled sirloin with chili says yes. $$ Venti Tre (E7) ul. Belwederska 23 (Hyatt Hotel), tel. 22 558 1094. Open 6:30-23:00. With good seafood – such a rarity in Warsaw – Venti Tre serves up lovely meals that would appease the finicky appetite of any fish-lover. $$$ Business lunch: Mon-Fri 12:00-16:00.

Vera Italia (Ochota) ul. Sąchocka 5, tel. 22 823 8380, www.veraitalia.pl. Open 11:30-23:00. Where Warsaw’s Italian and other expats craving the real thing gather for Italian food. Note that its popularity makes booking ahead a must. $$ Włoska Robota (Ochota) ul. Drawska 22 (Ochota), tel. 783 870 463.

Open Sun-Thurs 11:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 11:0023:00. Squirreled away in Park Szczęśliwicki in Ochota, the forte of the establishment is the home-made pasta. The menu is otherwise a cookie-cutter range of pizza with the usual range of toppings. If you’re after baked dough the “panuozzo” sandwiches are real winners just be prepared to wait a while. $

japanese & sushi

Akashia (C4) Al. Jana Pawła II 61, tel. 22 636 6767; Złote Tarasy, ul. Złota 59, tel. 22 222 0333, www.akashia.pl. Compared to competitors it looks a little unassuming, almost faded.

The sushi is spot on though, and unlike some rivals they haven’t gone for the cut-price Polish chef option. $$ Art Sushi (C5) ul. Nowogrodzka 56, tel. 22 621 7720, www.artsushi.pl Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. The restaurant is charming, modern and peaceful. The menu is strictly

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Japanese/Korean, but is a good starting-point for sushi first-timers. $$ Besuto Sushi Bar (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 28 (pavilion 2), tel. 22 828 0020, www.besuto.pl. Open Sun-Thurs 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00. Set in the maze of pavilions behind Nowy Świat, Besuto looks distinctly at odds with the skaggy, shaggy bars in direct proximity. Featuring a jarring black/green design, the sushi is regarded as a bargain deal in a city where raw fish is commonly associated with premium prices. $ Doozo (D4) ul. Bracka 18, tel. 22 828 18 19, www.doozo.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:30; Sun 13:30- 20:00. A tiny, two-floor sushi emporium with a modern look and segregated VIP section. Check their ‘sticks’, tasty meat and fish options spiked onto skewers. $$ Gugo Sushi (Wilanów) ul. Nałęczowska 60, tel. 22 394 5480, www.gugosushi.pl. Open Sun-Thurs 12:0021:00; Fri-Sun 12:00-22:00. Fresh ingredients and wide selection of traditional items and modern creations from the classic and fusion menus make this new sushi spot in Wilanów worth checking out. $$ Hana Sushi Jasna Centre (D3) Jasna Centre, ul. Jasna 14/16A, tel. 22 826 8585, www.hanasushi.pl.

Open 12:00-23:00. This new location of Hana Sushi combines sleek Japanese minimalism with an air of decadence, and serves food as fresh and attractive as the presentation. $$ Inaba (B5) ul. Nowogrodzka 84/86, tel. 22 622 5955.

Open 12:00-23:00 (kitchen closes at 22:00).

Located in an office building, this place is surprisingly quiet. The miso soup will have you licking your bowl and the sashimi and sushi sets are perfect. $$$ Izumi Sushi (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17 (pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 22 825 7950, www.izumisushi.eu. Open 12:00-23:00 or last guest. Izumi’s décor is a mix between modern design and Japanese style, which means it’s easy on the eyes but lean enough for you to concentrate on the yummy food. Plus, it’s a major spot for celeb-spotting in the city. $$ Kaizen ul. Świetlicowa 7/9 (Konstancin), tel.

607 128 840. Open 12:00-22:00. Dark woods

ITALIAN/SUSHI and orchids warm the characteristically minimal Japanese design. The traditional sushi is delicious; however they also step in uncommon directions as they cater to Western tastes, with additional sauces, innovative inclusions and elegant plate ensembles. $$

Oto Sushi (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 44, tel. 22 828 0088, www.oto-sushi.pl. This little sushi spot is both modern and intimate, making it great for casual meals or dates. Excellent sushi and swift service. Great patio in summer. $$

Kiku Japanese Dining Gallery (D2) ul. Senatorska 17/19, tel. 22 892 0901, www.kiku.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. A rather well-designed place with lots of Japanese-inspired furnishings. This restaurant, run by a Korean staff, offers far more than good sushi: tasty glassy noodles and udon soups too. $

The Place (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 27, tel. 22 826 4517, www.theplacesushi.pl. Open daily 12:00- last guest. Great sushi at (surprisingly) great prices and other Japanese specialties in a slick setting. Plus delicious vegetarian options too. $

Maguro (D5) ul. Wilcza 26, tel. 22 621 7460, www.magurosushi. pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:0022:00; Sun 12:00-21:00.

The day’s sushi selection sails past on boats in this Wilcza stalwart, and from what we’ve seen, then yes, it should float your boat as well. $$

ul. Polna 48, ul. Nowogrodzka 38, C.H. Skorosze, ul. Gen. F. Sławoja-Składkowskiego 4, www.sushi77.com. Open 12:00-23:00.

The Sushi 77 chain is surprisingly consistent with the quality of its dishes. The Żelazna location is a favourite, with simple decor, friendly service and great sushi. Check out the Ursynów location for noodle dishes too. $$ Sushi Teatr (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 22 826 4787, www.sushiteatr.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:0023:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. This small yet very comfortable restaurant is relaxing in its Zen-like elegance. Great for sharing a platter with a hot date. $$

Sakana Sushi Bar (D2, A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7 tel. 22 636 0055; ul. Moliera 4/6, tel. 22 826 5958, www.sakana.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. Some call it the best sushi in the city, and they may have a point.

Practice nimble chopstick tricks alongside other aficionados while sushi rolls sail by on tiny, little boats. $$

Sushi Zushi (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 420 3373, www.sushizushi.pl. Open Mon-Thur 12:0023:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-03:00; Sun 13:00-22:00.

The No. 1 ex-pat choice, so it seems, with a front cover crowd who could model for Elle. Survey the slicing skills of the sushi chefs from stools by the moat, and don’t shy away from their more creative inventions – find fish, fruit and >>

Sushi 77 (B4) ul. Żelazna 41, tel. 22 890 1811, Al. KEN 49,

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EATING OUT >> cheese inside their Class A rolls. $$ Tomo (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2344, www.tomo.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Excellent.

While Warsaw’s other sushi stops gather cobwebs Tomo packs out each night – that should say enough. With the maki, sushi and sashimi bobbing past on wooden platters, this place aims for fast, maximum turnover without ever making the diner feel second best. $$ Tsubame (B1) ul. Stawki 3, tel. 22 635 8667, www.tsubame. pl. Open 12:00-23:00. A great place for confidential conversation; frequently empty, the sushi is actually fine, just nowhere near the standard set in their former home on Foksal. $$ Yoko Sushi (Praga) ul. Ostrobramska 75c, (Promenada Mall, 3rd Floor), tel. 22 611 3535, www.yokosushi.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00.

With a hip-Japan vibe and a cool factor that if off-the-meter, this is a perfect place for metrosexuals and hip urban couples. $$

kosher & jewish

U Samuela (B1) ul. Stawki 2, tel. 22 692 6217, www.restauracjausamuela.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 13:00-22:00. If nothing else, it’s worth coming here for views that stretch right across town. Set on Floor 38, the Jewish/European menu is inevitably overshadowed by glittering sights outside.

With plenty of pork dishes on show, the Jewish authenticity is largely suspect. $$

latin

Blue Cactus (E8) ul. Zajączkowska 11, tel. 22 851 2323, www.bluecactus.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:0023:00; Sat 9:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00.

A lasting legend and an ex-pat darling – not least with the brunch bunch on a sweaty, summer Sunday. Appealing to all ages, this place is as good as ever. The fajitas are DIY food at its best, and taste all the better with a jug of margarita. $$ Carmona (B2) ul. K. Chodkiewicza 3, tel. 22 414 1919, www.carmona.pl. Open 8:00-23:00. Set in an increasingly happening section of new money Mokotów, find the daily tapas chalked

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up on a blackboard inside a modern interior featuring midnight colors and top-to-bottom windows. Worth the look if you’re next door. $ Cuatro Caminos ul. Grzybowska 2, tel. 22 493 8748, www.cuatro-caminos.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Winning blanket approval for what’s sometimes regarded as the best Spanish choice in Warsaw, Cuatro Caminos feature a scattering of selected mains and some excellent tapas in a prime location for an after-work meet. $$ El Popo (C2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 2340. Open daily 12:00-24:00. The food is consistently inconsistent. Great guacamole, lovely margaritas and pleasant waitstaff. But that’s about it. $$ El Toro Steakhouse ul. Wiejska 13, tel. 22 625 7698, www. eltororestaurant.com.pl. Open 12:00-23:00.

Decked with stone cladding, wooden supports and a mural of a Mexican desert scene, El Toro is a valuable discovery for meat loves out there. There’s seven steaks to saw through, and they reach a hefty zł.

157 for the Porterhouse. A whole lot cheaper are the delicious Louisiana Hot Wings, though for fans of the Mex part of Tex-Mex the authenticity is open to discussion. $$ Frida Nowy Świat (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 34, tel. 691 343 434. Open Sun-Thur 11:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-02:00.

Both the location and the design have been nailed, and while the salsa lacks teeth, the food is slowly approaching the level set by the more established haunts in the Latin class. Good burgers, as well. $$ Portucale (E10) ul. Merliniego 2, tel. 22 898 0925, www.portucale.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. The rule here is to keep it simple. Stick to the truly amazing seafood and good house wine, both of which promise a terrific Portuguese experience. $$ Tapa y Toro (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Trasy Shopping Mall, level -1). Open 10:00- last guest. Tapas fans rejoice! With the full range of tastes Tapa y Toro is a great place to peck away on authentic Spanish nibbles, even more so if you bag a seat outside; eye candy heaven. The only downside seems to be the toilet, a sickly,

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stinky affair shared with the rest of the mall. $$ Taqueria Mexicana (D4) ul. Zgoda 5, tel. 22 556 4720/22, www.taqueriamexicana.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-21:00; Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 12:0022:00. This little slice of Mexico serves great fajitas and even better Caesar Salad. Stick with the guacamole. $$ The Mexican (E4) ul. Foksal 10a, tel. 22 826 9021, www.mexican.pl. Open Sun-Thur 11:00-24:00; Fri and Sat 11:00-01:00.

Style-wise this place is fab, complete with an adobe courtyard and Corona chandeliers. But the authenticity crashes into calamity with the food, which frequently appears as a mysterious gloop served with mashed cabbage. The locals love it. $$

seafood

Osteria (D5) ul. Koszykowa 54 (at ul. Poznańska), tel. 22 621 1646, www.osteria.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. An intimate restaurant with marine-inspired décor and the best seafood in Warsaw, t’s ideal for an energetic business lunch or romantic late-night supper. You can also pick up your seafood to go from their neighboring shop. $$

specialty food shops

African Shop ul. Wilcza 51, tel. 507 247 292, www.afroeuro.eu. Beans, beverages, flour and soup thickeners. Hair products and cosmetics also available, and they promise to be bringing in Abyssinian coffee in the near future as well. ‘’Excellent,’’ gushes one Zimbabwean connection.

Bio Bazar ul. Żelazna 51/53, tel. 22 318 8855, www.biobazar.org.pl. Open Sat 8:00-17:00.

Fruit and veg in the first warehouse, some of it imported from as far as Argentina. In the second warehouse, find organic cheese varieties from sheep and goats, as well as import brands from Italy, France and the Netherlands. Cash only, with a second branch in Wilanów (ul. Kostki Potockiego, open Sat 10:00-15:00).

Fish & Chips ul. Koszykowa 30, tel. 692 240 804, www.fishandchips.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:3021:00; Sun 13:00-19:00. British food and

KOSHER/LATIN/SEAFOOD/DELIS beverages inc. cider, bacon, sausages, gluten free ready meals, confectionary etc. Internet ordering also available.

Krakowski Kredens Various locations, check: www.krakowskikredens.pl. Jams, syrups, honey and preserves, as well as fantastic hams and kiełbasa from the Galicia region.

Kuchnie Świata Various locations, www.kuchnieswiata.com. pl. The first stop for most ex-pats, with an offer that includes food and drinks from across the globe. The choice is vast. Internet ordering now also available.

La Fromagerie ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 465 2324, www. lafromagerie.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat 9:00-17:00. A bistro/cheese specialist with hard-to-find brands from across Europe.

Also cider, conserves, marmalades and meats imported from Italy and France.

La Petite France ul. Zwycięzców 28, tel. 22 672 9646, www.lapetitefrance.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:3018:00. Wine and cheese as well as canned and tinned foods from France.

store which doesn’t look anything more than a pokey neighborhood store. They’ve got it all mind, from oils, beans, lentils and flour, not to mention ready meals, canned goods and cosmetics. Internet ordering available.

Maho al. Krakowska 240/242, tel. 22 609 1548, www.maho.com.pl. An excellent German-run Turkish restaurant that also doubles as a butcher: halal certified beef, veal, lamb and poultry.

Marks & Spencer Various locations inc. DT Wars & Sawa, ul. Marszałkowska 104/122, tel. 22 551 7553, www.marks-and-spencer.com.pl. Visit the Marszałkowska location to take advantage of the on-site bakery, but visit early as choice diminishes the later it gets. Aside from baked goods, find an excellent frozen food section, as well as an off-license, tinned goods, ready meals, confectionary and preserves.

BEST WAWA 2011 “Gourmet Grocery” Winner

Le Diplomat ul. Meksykańska 6, tel. 22 616 0539.

Open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-15:00.

Long regarded as the best butcher in town, as well as the number one source for lamb.

MeiAsia ul. Kilińskiego 3, tel. 22 402 13 07, www.meiasia.com.pl. Open 10:00-21:00.

A top Asian spot just off the fringes of Old Town. Featured products from China, India, Indonesia, Japan, Thailand and Singapore. Sauces, noodles, snacks and oils, as well as a small stand with fresh fish and seafood.

Little India ul. Domaniewska 22/5, tel. 22 843 6738, www.littleindia.pl. The definitive Indian

Namaste India ul. Nowogrodzka 15, tel. 22 357 0939.

Open Mon-Sat 11:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-22:00.

Not just an excellent take-away, but also a small deli selling herbs and spices, ready meals, drinks and even Indian toiletries.

Ostra Kuchnia www.ostrakuchnia.pl. A superb internet shop retailing quite literally the hottest sauces known to man: brands include Blair’s, Dave’s, El Yucateco, Mad Dog, Melinda’s and many more besides. Also sell jalapenos, chili peppers, salsas and pastes. Polish-only website, but easy to navigate and superb customer service.

Papryka-Hungarian Store ul. Zwycięzców 22, tel. 22 616 0257, www.papryka-salami.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. A Hungarian deli selling wine, meats, preserves and spices.

Piccola Italia & Mediterraneo Locations on ul. Emili Plater 47, ul. Egejska 17, Al. KEN 85. Over 1,700 products, inc. cheeses from Lombardy, Sicilian marzipan, coffee from Florence and Oliver from Puglia.

And not just Italian: find a range of foods from both Spain and France.

Polna Market ul. Polna 13. Open Mon-Fri 7:00-19:00, Sat 7:00-17:00. Known as ‘Warsaw’s Market’ during communism, this was the place to get treasured goods from the West.

And it’s still known as something of a shoppers paradise, with a couple of wine stores, an outstanding butchers (whose happy to accept special orders), and a fab produce stand selling only the freshest vegetables.

TOP SHOP Samira al. Niepodległości 213, tel. 22 825 0961, www.samira.pl

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nuck up a side alley Samira hits the bull’s eye for its encyclopedic offer of Lebanese goodies. So it doesn’t look much from the outside, but from the inside it’s the final word in culinary exoticism. Find chickpeas, grape leaves, flatbreads, pomegranate syrup, hummus, olives, dips etc. On top of that, there’s a top selection of Middle Eastern juices and soft drinks. And should cooking seem like a challenge, then why not trust the staff to do the job for you – attached, find a highly competent sit-down space with all the Lebanese staples. It’s not quite the standard of Le Cedre, but it is certainly a healthy second.

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GOING OUT Bars, Pubs & Clubs

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SECTIONS bars & pubs. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . p. 56

jazz clubs. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . p.59

clubs. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . p. 59

Insider’s Pick “ What with all the steps and side rooms, it really feels like crashing a house party”

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

HOT FIND

Znajomi Znajomych ul. Wilcza 58A, www.znajomiznajomych.waw.pl.

Open Sun-Thurs 16:00-2:00; Fri-Sat 16:00-5:00.

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emember NoBo? Warsaw’s first lounge bar was fantastic, with a dark and dimmed design that could have passed for an Algiers brothel. Inexplicably, it closed, leaving behind a troop of glum faces.

Since its untimely death, a number of people have stepped into the breach and tried to resurrect the address. Till now, their efforts have been unsuccessful. The latest contender is this lot, and from what I’ve seen they’ve got a better chance than most.

The Wilcza/Poznańska area is becoming something of a hipster hotspot recently, yet even so, you sense an element of bravery when you consider its size – not only have they snapped up the ground floor vacated by NoBo, but the upstairs as well. And good job too, because I’m afraid the ground floor looks yuck – I’m not sure what they’ve tried to do with the opening level, but the end result is cheap and nasty: horrid disco lights, cartoonish murals and white, wooden furniture that belongs in a (bad) kitchen.

Move swiftly and without distraction to Level 1 instead. It’s here that Zna Zna comes into its own with a set of chambers decked out in a cool retro style. What with all the steps and side rooms (inc. what can only be described as a Ron Jeremy orgy chamber) it really feels like crashing a house party – a fact not lost on the scenesters splashed on the sofas. Better still, you can smoke! I’ve just about had enough of freezing my goolies off every time I need a nicotine boost, so to learn ZZ has a vast smoking section is welcome news indeed – and no, it’s not some pokey side room with zero ventilation. Here smokers have the whole floor, a lovely treat which means breathing apparatus aren’t required.

Unsurprisingly it’s the smoking floor that sees the most traffic, though a range of regular events mean the lower level is by no means overlooked. And what a varied offer it is: depending on the night you’ll find anything from rockabilly to afrobeat, jazz evenings to film screenings. More likely mind, visitors can anticipate underground sounds from upcoming DJs. Always good fun, even more so having greased your windpipe with a tray of Staropramen – or, for that matter, any one of their full-blooded cocktails. (AW) >>

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bars & pubs

Absurd 228 ul. Puławska 228, tel. 22 252 0401. Open Tue-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun-Mon 12:00-20:00.

Upmarket, but with an industrial twist, Absurd could yet emerge as the number one concert venue for alternative sounds. The Mokotów location makes it a gamble, but the live music is popular with creatives.

Alibi (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 22, tel. 22 629 2523. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-24:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-03:00.

Another newish sports bar, Alibi’s strength lies in plenty of TVs (Sky Sports, yep), a generous floor plan, matey owner and a smoking area that’s seriously flexible. Oh, the location is grand central as well.

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Bar Tektura (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, tel. 604 642 604.

Open 12:00-last guest. Here’s a hyper cool haunt with a look anchored by brick and cardboard as the main decorative element (check the ornamental bison’s head), with additional touches including taps for coat hangers and Banksy-style wall art. And creativity is encouraged among the regulars – find pencils and papers on each table.

The ‘Polski tapas’ are great, yet not nearly as good as the Estonian cider.

Beirut (D5) ul. Poznańska 12. Open 12:00-last guest.

The interiors are hip and happening, with walls layered with cult album covers, documentary film posters and a couple pics of military hardware (pointing at Tel Aviv across the road). Lebanese themed, the beer is nonetheless Lithuanian and Belgian, while the staff have an exotic look and elaborate hair. Brilliant.

Browar de Brasil (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 76/80, tel. 534 600 990, www.browardebrasil.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. As the big, copper vats suggest, they brew their own lager. And well. There’s four to choose from, and they come served by sexy soccerettes dressed in tight Brazil tops. Featuring scarlet colors and deep, dark woods (a glass floor, even!), this double level bar looks a good bet to break the duopoly of local microbreweries.

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Browarmia (C3)  ul. Królewska 1, tel. 22 826 5455, www.browarmia.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. The location alone means it’s never short on footfall. Even so, with Browar de Brasil now open, this microbrewery has slipped further down the local Warsaw beer ladder.

Cafe Kulturalna (C4)  Palace of Culture, pl. Defilad 1, tel. 22 656 6281, www.kulturalna.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00last guest; Sun 15:00-last guest. The location is unbeatable and visiting the Palace late at night is an amazing, almost mystical experience.

Chłodna 25 (B3)  ul. Chłodna 25/Żelazna 75A, tel. 22 620 2413, www.chlodna25.blog.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00last guest; Sat-Sun 10:00-last guest. A cult bar with arty performances and a battered look.

The sense of community is strong here, with thesps, students and musicians gathering on the summer patio to tonk back the Ciechan.

Bierhalle (A1) Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia). Open 11:00last guest. It’s been five years since Bierhalle tapped their first beer, and in those five years they’ve nailed the market. Fantastic Pils served in a boozy, Bavarian atmopshere, and a decent menu to iron out any hunger issues.

Chwila (B3) ul. Ogrodowa 31/35, tel. 22 401 1754.

Open 12:00-last guest; Sun 15:00-last guest. Entered under a red, cabaret-style awning, Chwila is a reject factory space turned good. Furry cushions, patchwork quilts and student art vie for attention alongside iron girders and industrial leftovers inside what is becoming known as one of the top alternative music venues this side of the river. Scaremongers and dodgy websites claim this place as closed – lies!

Bratnia Szatnia (C4) pl. Defilad 1, www.bratniaszatnia.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Bar, cafe, club, concert space – it’s all those and more. Set in the Palace of Culture, this place has everything from DJs and concerts to tango classes and art happenings. No surprise then to find a crowd of hip, urban media sorts staking claim to the seating.

Czysta Ojczysta (G1) ul. Ząbkowska 27/31. Open Mon-Fri 18:00-4:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-4:00.

Here’s a turn up for the books: a Praga bar that doesn’t look infected. Set in a one-time vodka factory, this white-on-white haunt features little more than soothing colors, iron posts (watch them), and a whole wall of vodka. Expect the party to spill out into the

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courtyard, itself utilized for maverick events like bicycle polo.

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Czeska Baszta Most Poniatowskiego (Tower A-22). Open Sun-Thurs 16:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 16:00-24:00.

So what if it looks rough and ready and smells like a tramp – that’s exactly how an authentic Czech pub should be. Drinkers of all ages flock to this tower location, ostensibly to celebrate an amazing selection of imported brews. Insider tip: try the Eggenberg.

Flow (D4) ul. Chmielna 2, tel. 519 300 068. Open Sun-Thur 9:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 9:00-last guest.

Undistinguishable from a British high street chain bar, the principal boon here is the massive smoking section. Otherwise it’s negative points all round: from over-priced cocktails to dismal DJs, this place has disaster written on it in big red letters.

Huśtawka (D4) ul. Bracka 20A. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-last guest; Sat-Sun 16:00-last guest. A raw cultish hangout, popular with a non-conformist crowd who know how to party. Allegedly inspired by 80’s New York City, find this labyrinthine late-nighter in a courtyard palace.

Hydrozagadka ul. 11 Listopada 22, tel. 502 070 916, www.hydrozagadka.waw.pl. Open MonThur 18:00-1:00, Fri-Sat 18:00-5:00.Even in an area known for its dive scene Hydrozagadka stands apart as something a little different. Competition is cutthroat in Praga, but even so this place wins the gong for most dismal interior – congrats. Looking like it’ll fall apart at any given signal, The H earns plaudits for weekends that whizz past in a blur of hedonism.

Irish Pub (C2) ul. Miodowa 3, tel. 22 826 2533, www.irishpubmiodowa.pl. Open daily 11:00-last guest. Affecting a look that only an Irish pub can escape with – strange smells and chipped wood – this boozer is perhaps more noted for its live music and camaraderie than for anything else. There’s events practically every night, ranging from local rock acts to cool blues. If you failed the X Factor audition then do the next best thing and visit for karaoke night.

Jimmy Bradley’s Irish Pub (C4)  Warsaw Towers (ground floor), ul. Sienna 39,

BARS & PUBS tel. 22 654 6656, www.jimmybradley.pl.

Open Mon-Fri 10:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 12:00-last guest. A firm ex-pat bulwark, and certainly the best pint of Guinness in the city. Built on a firm foundation of live sports, free-flowing beer and rapid fire banter this is every inch your trademark Irish pub. Come weekend, few places capture the ex-pat spirit better.

Kafefajka ul. Nowy Świat 22/28. Open 12:00-last guest An atmospheric haunt found in the warren of bars behind Nowy Świat. Water pipes are the specialty here, with thick clouds of scented smoke obscuring the horseplay Karmnik (D1) ul. Piwna 41, tel. 22 468 0664. Open 11:00-last guest. Complimented by soft, lazy grooves, conversation comes fuelled by a fridge filled to bursting with diverse labels from Łomża and Gniewosz. Rounding out the art-mosphere, find a tubby looking dog nosing happily under tables. Decorated with birdhouses and wobbly plastic seats, it’s further proof that Praga cool has penterated mainland Warsaw.

Kwadrat (D5) ul. Poznańska 7, www.kwadrat.waw.pl.

Open 12:00-last guest; Sat 18:00-last guest; closed Sun. Dwarfish in size, Kwadrat offers a magnificent selection of quirky beers from the lesser known breweries of backwater Poland. Arty in spirit, but never pretentious, it’s the neighborhood bar you wished you lived next to.

Klub City (B2) al. Jana Pawła II 43A, tel. 22 636 92 46, www.klubcity.pl. Open 17:00-2:00.

A newish gay venue set under the pavilions on JP2. The highlights here are the beer – Mazowieckie and Dawne – as well as a total absence of the preening fauxmosexuals of Warsaw’s more elite haunts. Find erotic art clinging to the walls, and karaoke and drag shows performed intermittently.

Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640.

Open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00, Fri 11:00-02:00, Sat 12:00-02:00, Sun 12:00-23:00. A place that just keeps growing on us; there’s a segregated smoking chamber, traditional dartboard (no stupid electronics here), Sky Sports and a menu that’s as authentically English as the Downing Street cat. In charge of it all is Graham, a seasoned ex-pat with an embassy background.

Lokal Użytkowy (D1) ul. Brzozowa 27/29, tel. 22 635 6838.

Open Fri-Sat 18:30-23:30. This arty locale features swan white walls, graphic art and red, squeaky chairs from which to enjoy hard-to-find beers from CEE – Svyturys and Noteckie, for instance. It’s almost tempting to stick around for the weird events that unfold. Didgeridoo concert, anyone?

Lorelei (D4) ul. Widok 8, tel. 605 066 775. Open Sun-Thu 12:00-01:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-05:00. A brill place with black and white interiors touched

up with cool lighting and walls layered with comic strip pics. The real plus are the people, an approachable bunch always happy to practice their English.

Meta (E4) ul. Foksal 21, tel. 22 826 4513. Open 11:006:00. Decorated with Brezhnev-era leftovers this commie-themed venue has everything from propaganda posters to a string of toilet rolls hanging from the wall. Blend in with the wobbly legged party monsters by mixing Żołądkowa vodka with their special mix, PRL-style orangeade.

Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’ (D4) Enter from ul. Nowy Świat 26. Enjoy while you can – slated for demolition in the coming years, the pavilions represent underground Warsaw at its raffish best. A low rent maze of dark, budget bars await, including the celebrated Klaps with its vibrator beer taps.

Nowy Wspaniały Świat (D2) ul. Nowy Świat 63, tel. 509 643 639.

Open Sun-Thu 11:00-3:00; Fri-Sat, 11:00-5:00.

A student heavy, socialist leaning hangout, where laptops and portfolios are seen as must-have accessories. Pretty vast, but usually packed with hipsters straining to listen to seminars and screenings.

Panorama Bar and Lounge (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel.22 630 6306, www.panoramabar.pl.

Open Mon-Sun 18:00-02:00. Housed on floor 40 of the Marriott Hotel, the

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GOING OUT Paparazzi (D3)  ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 22 828 4219, www.paparazzi.com.pl. Open Mon-Thu 12:001:00, Fri 12:00-2:00, Sat-Sun 18:00-2:00.

Poland’s first cocktail chain, and a market leader to this day. Find a dressed-to-kill crowd of jet set glamour cats prowling the bar, as well as a smoking section that encompasses everything but the entrance.

Pardon To Tu Pl. Grzybowski 12/16. Open 9:00-last guest.

A fab Insider discovery snuck to the side of the Jewish Theater. Doubling as a record shop, find the crimson interiors dusted with album covers, mismatching seats and tilted lampshades. Giving it an extra lift are a

knockout beer selection and unpredictable schedule of equally unpredictable live performances: ‘the improvised live music’ is occasionally great.

Plan B (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 508 316 976. Open Mon-Sat 13:00-last guest; Sun 16:00-last guest. Plan B is a byword for everything that’s hip and happening in Warsaw. Design doesn’t even come into the equation in this grubby upstairs bar, but the free spirits can’t get enough of it.

Pochwała Niekonsekwencji ul. Grójecka 118, tel. 22 823 1898. Open 10:00-1:00. As avant-garde as they come, you’d expect this sort of place in Praga, not the heart of Ochota. Filled with dog-eared books and contemporary art you’ll find the day’s offers chalked on the blackboard; among them, gourmet beers from obscure, offbeat breweries.

HOT FIND

Bar Warszawa ul. Miodowa 2, tel. 504 320 497, www.barwarszwa.pl. Open 24hrs.

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new bar inspired by old times, Bar Warszawa is a rare animal indeed – a place where polar opposites co-exist in harmony. Don’t believe me? Then allow me to present Exhibit 1: the last time I was here. Bundled under one roof you’d have found some annoying foreign teachers, the office crowd, pre-club schmoozers and movers and a suspicious old dude hunched over a pickle – how’s that for variety?

Intimately spread across two floors, Level 0 looks pretty pokey: little more than photos of Wa-wa, and bar boys dressed in check shirts and caps. Keeping the bar stewards busy, an endless stream

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Porto Praga ul. Okrzei 23, tel. 22 698 5001, www. portopraga.pl. Open Mon-Thurs 12:00-1:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 12:00-24:00.Some of Poland’s best cocktails knocked up by a crew of pros who know their trade inside out.

Looking slinky smooth, PP is a one-stop destination: a top restaurant and bar shaken into one.

Przekąski Zakąski/Bistro (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, tel. 22 826 7936. Open 24 hours. Shots of vodka and plates of Polish stomach liners are dispensed inside a mirrored environment with droopy plants. It’s an after club must, with stern service guaranteed from agitated oldies dressed in tuxedos. Packed to the brim come three, four even five am.

Pub Lolek (B8)  ul. Rokitnicka 20 (Pole Mokotowskie), entrance from Żwirki i Wigury, tel. 22 825 6202, www.lolekpub.pl. Open daily 11:0003:00. The outdoor patio is packed in the

“ It’s a great space, womb-like in warmth and filled out with sofas. It’s also a nostalgic little glimpse of retro year Warsaw”

of orders running from dumplings and herring to vodka and beer (Dawne and Mazowiecka).

So with your beer in your hand, I recommend creaking upstairs.

It’s a great space, womb-like in warmth and filled out with sofas.

It’s also a nostalgic little glimpse of retro year Warsaw: forming the decorations are vintage radios and pics of old stars, as well as a curious little corner filled with black and white images of bare breasted ladies – just guess where I like to sit. But that’s not the only element that wins my approval. Run as a side hobby by a TV producer, Jerzy, the owner, clearly appreciates that some of the public drink at odd hours. But that’s just not a problem here – non-existent closing times mean access all hours. (AW)

PHOTOGRAPH BY ŻANETA WITKIEWICZ

>> Panorama Bar has ditched it’s crass, Dallas style, and gone for a svelte, chic look that wouldn’t be amiss in a VIP club room. A romantic must, and all the better for its dazzling views; you can almost touch the top of the Palace of Culture outside.

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JAZZ CLUBS/CLUBS summer, with the Żywiec flowing and kiełbasa grilling, while in winter a basic timber interior fills out come weekends.

Resort (C2) ul. Bielańska 1, tel. 535 350 997.

Open 12:00-last guest. One of the best designs of 2011, with pretty much all interior features made from reusable materials: seats from shopping trolleys, tables from street signs and a bar from books. Shame about the one dimensional beer choice, therefore.

Saturator (Praga) ul. 11 Listopada 22, 504 353 7772, www.saturator.art.pl. Open 19:00-last guest.

Dirty and daring, nights at Saturator start off quiet before erupting into a full-on party for people of all proclivities. Definitely gives you a taste of Warsaw’s naughty side, with music coming courtesy of figures like DJ Ladyboy and Electrohell.

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Sense (D4)  ul. Nowy Świat 19, tel. 22 826 6570. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-last guest. Design elements include natural stone and cool lighting, though the real draw are the drinks: don’t be swayed by the nay’sayers, Sense is still top of the tree when it comes to Poland’s best cocktails.

BEST WAWA 2011 “Cocktails” Winner Sketch (E4)  ul. Foksal 19, tel. 602 762 764, www.sketch. pl. Open daily 12:00-1:00; upstairs bar open Fri-Sat 20:00-1:00. Cool, sophisticated and fun. The international spread of beers is impressive, practically unbeatable in fact, and served inside edgy minimalist interiors.

Sofa ul. Emilii Plater 28 (enter from Nowogrodzka 56), tel. 22 626 1415, www.sofa.waw.pl. Open 8:30-24:00; Sat 13:00-24:00; Sun 13:0022:00.Long and narrow, here’s a haunt that just goes on and on and on. Decorated with plush, deep sofas, black and white cityscapes and polished wood flooring , it’s position and it’s look make it the perfect after-work joint.

SomePlace Else (E5) ul. B. Prusa 2 (Sheraton), tel. 022 450 6707.

Open Mon 12:00-24:00, Tue-Thur 12:00-2:00, Sat 16:00-2:00, Sun 12:00-23:00. SPE have a new cosmopolitan look that makes use of a glowing bar, Minsk grey colours and exposed piping. Certainly the hippest of the hotel gang, live music and expert cocktails make sure it draws more than the lodgers upstairs.

Spotkanie z Szpiegiem (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 27/35. Open Mon-Fri 8:00last guest; Sat-Sun 10:00-last guest.

You’d usually be right to avoid a place where the main decorative element is a fridge. But when that fridge is home to umpteen beers from Poland’s best, alternative breweries you know you’re on a winner. Little more than a small, rotund room, it’s immediately likeable – it’s got the ‘artistic’ spirit of the nearby Plan B, yet none of the vomit.

Syreni Śpiew ul. Szara 10A. Here’s one to look forward to. Set to open in mid-December, this place is the brainchild of Norbert and Bartek, the chaps behind the cult Warszawa Powiśle.

But don’t expect another venue for cool kids.

This is set to be an over-21 bar, with exclusive world whisky served by bow-tied lackeys. Full review next issue.

jazz clubs

Jazzarium (D5) ul. Wilcza 50/52, tel. 601 327 634. Open Mon-Fri 8:30-last gues; Sat 18:00-last guest.

Owned by Mariusz Adamiak, Jazzarium is certainly the most serious of Warsaw’s jazz venues, with a reportoire that reflects the proprietor’s standing in the music biz. What looks like a pretty ordinary cafe, transforms the moment there’s a concert.

Jazzownia Liberalna (D1)  ul. Jezuicka 1/3 (Old Town Market Square), tel. 22 635 3769. Open Mon-Sun 11:00-last guest. This place seems to have it all –

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Szparka (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 16A, tel. 22 621 0370.

Open 24hrs. It looks like a generic, city center bar, and while no longer a hip, happening haunt it’s as popular as ever with a middleaged crowd. Set on numerous levels, its open hours alone demand Szparka’s inclusion to any Going Out list.

Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 621 8622. Open SunThu 12:00-24:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-03:00.

More than just a Tex Mex joint, this is the working model of the expat stronghold; they’ve got the food, the live music, a strong group of regulars and, better still, a spread of Sky Sports screens zapping in goalmouth action from across the world.

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Warszawa Powiśle (E4) ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B. Open Mon-Fri 7:00last guest, Sat-Sun 10:00-last guest.

Located in a former ticket shack, this place is all PRL concrete and peeling signage. Looking cheap and chipboard, visual diversions are limited to frayed posters promoting upcoming bands. Instead, the eye candy comes in the form of the people – a selection of the weird and the weirder lapping up obscure beers as they tap into Macs.

Wiatraki (D4) ul. Kubusia Puchatka 8, tel. 828 4034.

Open daily 11:00-22:00. A backstreet, Dutch-owned haunt where great snacks and sandwiches are overshadowed only by the beer – find a series of gourmet Benelux beers inside this friendly, two-floor operation.

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GOING OUT >> location, great music, tasty chic fusion cuisine and prices that won’t intimidate.

Tygmont Jazz Club (D3)  ul. Mazowiecka 6/8, tel. 22 828 3409, www.tygmont.com.pl. Open daily 16:00-4:00.

For true jazz lovers, Tygmont is a breath of fresh air in a city up to its ears in terrible acoustics. Soulful rhythms and straightforward décor characterize this laid-back music club.

clubs

1500m2 (E3) ul. Solec 18, tel. 22 628 8412. Open Fri-Sat 22:00-06:00. The most talked about dance space of 2010, and further evidence that Warsaw is catching up with Berlin when it comes to urban cool. Decorated with graffiti squiggles and industrial leftovers this warehouse space has acquired a name for dusk-till-dawn electro events.

18/11 Club by Theatro (E4) ul. Foksal 18, www.theatro1811.com. Open Wed-Sat 18:00-6:00. A neon-lit basement space with smashed-glass surfaces and exotic undertones. Expect a top-dollar crowd slinking to the sounds of a bloke called Nobis.

The Bank (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 14, www.bankclub.pl.

Open Mon-Thur 18:00-24:00; Fri 18:00-06:00; Sat 22:00-6:00. With four bars spread across 1,500 meters of dance space The Bank makes an impression alright. The place is huge, though you won’t need GPS to track down the lookers.

Capitol Theatre and Club (C3) ul. Marszałkowska 115, tel. 22 826 8570, www.clubcapitol.pl. A massive space, sparkly chandelier and Moscow-style, over-the-top décor and regal staircases. Free entry or zł.30 for Hed Kandi events.

DeLite (E5) ul. Marii Konopnickiej 6, www.deliteclub.com.

Open Fri-Sat 21:00-last guest. Exposed brick pipes, raw concrete and an interesting mirror set-up in the bathrooms add to the futuristic, pretty-in-pink, spaceship interiors. Joining the top table of Warsaw’s other ‘uber klubs’ De Lite gets even better once access to the VIP room is scored.

Enklawa (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 22 827 3151, www.enklawa.com. Open Wed-Sat 21:004:00. Enklawa borders its glitz on kitsch but

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every weekend, it manages to draw in big crowds with its lineup of club and pop hits.

The dance floor is always packed, even on weekdays, and it’s a surefire winner as the top Wednesday in town.

The Eve (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9 (corner of ul. Wierzbowa), tel. 22 827 5242, www.theeve.pl. Open WedFri 17:00-last guest; Sat 20:00-last guest.

The crowd is smoking hot, with a cutthroat door policy that sees egos crash and burn at the entrance. Run by the same team behind Platinium, the high jinks and capers are best observed from behind the one way mirror in the VIP room.

Hunters’ (D4) ul. Jasna 1, tel. 606 393 540, www.huntersclub.pl. Open 22:00-6:00.

Rising from the ashes of what was once Utopia is Hunters’, a high-end venue whose entry policy is every bit as daunting as that of the prior occupants. Aimed at a glam, fox-tailed crowd, this basement dance zone features factory grey colours interspersed with murals of tux-clad deer and ornamental mirrors. With nights like Gay Cum Back, it’s very much the VIP gay/straight/confused venue of choice.

Klubokawiarnia (D3) ul. Czackiego 8, www.klubo.pl. Open daily 21:00-last guest. If you ignore the latent fire hazard presented by this basement dive club then a Warsaw stalwart awaits. Writhing like a can of sweating worms, find a mid-20s party crowd enjoying house sounds inside a scabby looking space with flea bitten pics of Lenin & Co. Enter via a side door in the courtyard gateway and let the battle begin.

Luztro (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, www.luztro.pl. Open Tue-Sun 23:00-last guest. Feeling naughty?

Then check Luztro, a grim, grotty den where rules don’t apply. Embedded in folklore, this after-party legend really kicks off at around 5am, when troglodyte club creatures emerge to put the finishing touches to their saucereyed stare. Your No. 1 choice for electro and minimal, it’s the full-tilt clubbing experience.

Your head will hate you.

Obiekt Znaleziony (C3)  ul. Małachowskiego 3 (cellar of the Zachęta National Gallery), tel. 22 828 058, www.obiekt.blog.pl. Open Mon-Thrus & Sun 12:00- 1:00; Fri & Sat 12:00-last guest.

Located in the cellar of the Zachęta gallery,

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this club is a modern and minimalist artsy gathering spot for the alternative crowd.

Opera Club (D2) Underground of Teatr Wielki, Pl. Teatralny 1, tel. 22 828 7075, www.operaclub.pl. Open Fri & Sat 22:00-last guest. A labyrinth of passageways and chambers await in Opera, a subterranean club located underneath the National Theater. Touting an exotic, far eastern look, it’s one of the best designed clubs you could imagine, with a young, slinky crowd lapping up sounds from Warsaw’s upcoming DJs. Ósmy dzień tygodnia (G9) ul. Czerska 12, tel. 508 111 221. Open daily 18:00-last guest. A huge, grungey dive club that’s become the latest hit among the unigeneration. Graffiti-clad walls, warehouse trappings and a mega loud sound system complete the look. Entertainment ranges from hip hop sets and avant-garde film, to performances by esoteric bands.

Platinium (D3)  ul. Fredry 6, tel. 22 596 4666, www.platiniumclub.pl. Open Mon-Thur 12:00-1:00, Fri 12:00-5:00, Sat 16:00-5:00. The place if you’re rich or beautiful – but preferably both.

Large and spectacular you’ll need to be dressed to the nines to reap the rewards that lie inside: featuring the most eye candy per sq/m in Europe, you might not find Mr/Mrs Right, but you will find Mr/Mrs Right for Now. Sen Pszczoły (Praga) ul. Inżynierska 3, tel 22 506 488 481, www.senpszczoly.pl. One of Praga’s newest late-night hot spots. Musical offerings vary depending on the date, but they offer live music or DJs most weekends - check the website for detailed programmes.

Space Club (A5) ul. Kolejowa 37/39, tel. 606 617 228, www.club-space.eu. Open Fri-Sat 23:006:00. A true techno club with crazy lights, a great sound system, big name DJs, and lots of room to waggle about and enjoy Ibiza flashbacks.

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Sqandal Rynek Starego Miasta 1/3, tel. 602 876 776, www.sqandalbar.pl. Open Tues-Thurs 19:002:00; Fri-Sat 19:00-5:00. Head to Sqandal to jiggle under disco lights alongside buffed boys with their chest puffed out. Over the top glittery interiors compliment the pink and proud crowd.

TILL YOU DROP Boutiques, Fashion & Shopping Malls

THIS MONTH:

* 3 updates

SECTIONS fashion. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . p. 62

accessories. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . p. 63

shopping malls. . . . . . . . . . . . p. 64

Insider’s Pick “ It’s really a diverse range, but most of all it’s a great deal of fun trying everything on”

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF LEWANOWICZ

HOT FIND

Lewanowicz Café & Boutique Pl. Grzybowski 10, tel. 22 650 0590, www.lewanowicz.com. .

Open Mon-Sat 9:00-21:00, Sunday 11:00-21:00.

I

don’t wear a whole lot of jewelry, but I love tinkering about with baubles and other shiny things. I’ve got a few really beloved pieces which I rotate from event to event, but I’m constantly in search of that rare new set of earrings or charm necklace. The new Lewanowicz . boutique is just one of the new places springing up around Warsaw where the ladies can get together for an espresso and such like, and . to browse some of the sparkly goods. It’s more than a jewelry shop, and so much more than a café – I discovered it during a book launch party: an album of photographs featuring successful career mummies and their offspring.

Ewa Lewanowicz, the owner of the shop and the eponymous brand, is a pretty successful entrepreneur herself. She started her adult life working as a Pan Am stewardess, traveling all around the world for work and for pleasure. It was during a trip to India when she met a stonemason who introduced her to the world of stones - both precious

and semi-precious. Almost two decades later, she’s still in touch with the stonemason, presenting him with her original designs, which he brings to life in a matter of weeks.

Lewanowicz’s original collection is supplemented with several other designer ranges, including the Ayalabar line from Israel. Every item is different, full of global influences, from the Middle East and Mexico to Poland itself, India and the classic traditions of the West. It’s really a diverse range, but most of all it’s a great deal of fun trying everything on. And the staff is all for it: there’s no pressure to buy, it’s more like getting ready for a dress-up party with friends, trying on this and that.

Prices are within reach, ranging from zł. 100 for earrings to zł. 300 plus for bigger, more ornate pieces.

The place itself is elegant, but comfortable, designed of course

by Lewanowicz herself, who’s got the golden touch for design on all levels. This isn’t her first shop – there’s the Złote Tarasy location in Warsaw, along with a shop each in Zakopane and Kraków. There’s no slowing Lewanowicz down – and it’s truly wonderful to stop by this shop in the budding Grzybowska area to get inspired by the great creative energy of this place. (AL) >>

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...TILL YOU DROP >> Ania Kuczyńska (E5) ul. Mokotowska 61. Open Mon-Fri 12:0019:00; Sat 12:00-16:00. Ania Kuczyńska is becoming well known for her highly fashionable, minimalist clothing designs. .

The store also carries adorable baby clothes and various accessories.

Anna Walker (B6) tel. 22 825 0664, www.annawalker.eu. .

This new atelier comes from Canadian designer Anna Walker. A bright, welcoming showroom houses a collection of stylish gowns for special events and formal occasions.

19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00. Clue stocks items from Moschino, ASOS, DKNY, Marc Jacobs, Valentino, Cavalli, Steve Madden, Armani, as well as up-and-coming designers, and a number of children’s brands.

Designer Secret Al. Witosa 31 (1st floor, outlet 119), .

CH Panorama, tel. 506 051 048, . www.designersecret.pl. High end designer clothing brands at discount prices. The racks brim with women and men’s apparel from the 2008-2010 collections, with price tags that read from one third to 50% off the original price. Labels inc. Prada, Smith, McCartney and more.

Blind Cafe Concept Store (D6) ul. Mokotowska 63/100 (courtyard). .

Open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00; Sun 13:00-18:00.

This eclectic 50’s-style place is well-stocked with unique pieces for women and cool gadgets for men. A perfect place for those who are looking for something more than a mall for a style fix.

Emporio Armani (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 7, tel. 22 626 0650. .

Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-17:00.

The name speaks for itself. If you’re craving . a bit of Milano style, make sure to stop into the Emporio Armani store, just off the Rondo De Gaulle’a in the center of town.

Clue (E3) ul. Solec 101, tel. 22 695 7897, . www.cluefashion.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-

Ermenegildo Zegna (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7000, . www.zegna.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00;

Tiger Shop Al. Jana Pawła II 11, . www.tigershops.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-20:00; Sat 8:00-18:00.

Grrr... The Tiger attacks!

The Scandinavian retail chain has landed in PL, and not coincidentally bang in the middle of the festive season. Retro toys and gizmos like kaleidoscopes and tea sets cause nostalgic pangs, while fake sideburns, DIY reindeers and bow ties that squirt water are essential party equipment. Of course, it’s not just the lighter side of life represented here, and you’ll find numerous funky home and office accessories – the majority of which you’ll find accessibly priced at . zł. 10-15. (AJ)

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Sat 11:00-17:00. Everything for the welldressed man, from suits to belts, sportswear and cologne.

Flaming & Co. (D6) Galeria Mokotów, ul. Wołoska 12, . tel. 22 629 0545, www.flaming-co.com.

Open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-18:00.

This concept store, now re-opened on ul.

Mokotowska after renovation work, brings a fresh seaside breeze to Warsaw. Also checkout the branch of Flaming & Kids on . ul. Mokotowska.

Green Store (D4) ul. Chmielna 30, tel. 606 147 336, . www.gestablishment.com. Open MonFri 10:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. The breakthrough fashion stars from Praga have opened their first boutique in Centrum, featuring their signature funky styles and accessories from Prada, Miu Miu and Gucci in a very cool space.

Joanna Klimas (B2) ul. Nowolipki 2, tel. 22 831 0292, . www.joannaklimas.com. Open Mon-Fri 9:0020:00. One of Poland’s top fashion designers runs this boutique/showroom. Choose from the latest collections or have a dress custom made for a particular occasion.

Justyna Chrabelska (by appt) (E6) tel. 502 437 200, info@justynachrabelska. com, www.justynachrabelska.com. One of Warsaw’s most talented designers runs her own showroom in the center solely by appointment. With stylish, feminine dresses or funky contemporary dresses each season, this is the place to score the perfect dress, whether you’re a celebrity or just want to dress like one.

L’Aura (E6) ul. Mokotowska 26, tel. 22 625 1680. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. Warsaw has its modest share of designer boutiques, but L’Aura is the only place in the city where you can find unique pieces from the likes of Hussein Chalayan, Dries Van Noten and Veronique Branquinho.

Likus Concept Store (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18 (courtyard), tel. 22 492 7409, . www.likusconceptstore.pl. The Likus Concept Store brings ultra-chic designer clothing to Warsaw. The latest collections from Diesel,

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updates

D2, Ferre, Sophia Kokosalaki and J. Lindeberg are all available and presented in this stylish three-floor department store.

Lilla Moda (multiple locations) Galeria Mokotów, Klif www.lilla.com.pl. .

Here you’ll find exclusive Italian clothing brands, including Versace Jeans, Just Cavalli, GF FERRE, D&G, EXTE and Liu Jo. Loding Shoes and Shirts (C12) ul. Wołoska 12, 1st Floor, tel. 22 541 3774, www.loding.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00. The respected French shirtand-shoemaker recently opened its first shop in Warsaw. The place to go for top-of-the-line shirts, cufflinks and made-to-order dress shoes for the well-dressed man.

Luxury & Liberty (Saska Kępa) Promenada Shopping Centre, . ul. Ostrobramska 75C. Open Mon-Sat 10:0021:00; Sun 10:00-19:00. The Luxury bar on . ul. Nowy Świat went bankrupt in about a minute. But its fashion counterpart managed to come back in style with a sprawling new boutique in the Promenada shopping centre.

While the location’s a bit inconvenient, the selection of quality designer gear at L&L and other shops makes it well worth the trip.

Maciej Zień Boutique ul. Mokotowska 57, tel. 22 611 7337, . www.zien.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. A flagship boutique from one of the stars of Polish fashion. Check Zień Home upstairs for the ultra-designer showroom.

FASHION/ACCESSORIES Max Mara ul. Nowy Świat 1. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00. Poland’s first Max Mara mega store, with interior designed by Corso Vittorio Emanuele. Find all the latest from .

Max Mara Runway and the Max Mara Atelier coat collection, as well as Sportmax Runway and a growing range of in-house accessories.

Mokobelle ul. Wilcza 3 (entrance from Mokotowska 54), tel. 508 010 204. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00. An eclectic collection of Polish jewelry, along with pieces from worldclass names like Rodrigo Otazu.

Moliera 2 Boutique (D2) ul. Moliera 2, . tel, 22 827 7099, office@moliera2.com, . www.moliera2.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00, Sat 11:00-16:00. Moliera 2 is the first place in Poland with collections of Valentino, Christian Louboutin, Salvatore Ferragamo, Ralph Lauren Collection, Herve Leger, .

Moncler Gamme Rouge and Balmain.

Muji (A1) Arkadia Mall (lok 23 A), Al. Jana Pawła II 82, tel. 22 356 1039, www.muji.com.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00.

Having first opened its doors in 1983, in Japan, Muji still retains its simple aesthetic and ethos of marrying functionality with sophistication, with products ranging from furniture, kitchenware, stationary and clothing. Check out their online store.

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, tel. 22 622 14 16, store@plactrzechkrzyzy.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-17:00. The first Ralph Lauren store in Poland, features not only the latest RL collections for men and women, but also labels like Tod’s, Moncler and Salvatore Ferragamo. Ready-to-wear clothes and accessories.

Premiere (A2) Klif shopping Centre, ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4710. The boutique continues the Versace connection with a special “Versace Corner” nestled in the company of the last pieces from the Calvin Klein Collection and VJC Versace.

Redford and Grant (D3) Metropolitan Building, Pl. Piłsudskiego 3, tel. 22 313 2400, www.redfordandgrant.pl.

Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat: 11:00-15:00.

This multibrand fashion store is the ultimate destination for designer style in Warsaw for men and women. Offers clothing and accessories from the newest collections from all the major international designers like Dior, YSL, D&G, Gucci, Miu Miu and Prada.

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Reykjavik District ul. Solec 18/20, tel. 501 399 222, . www.reykjavikdistrict.com. Open Tues-Fri 13:00-19:00; Sat-Sun 13:00-17:00. Chic, wellcut menswear for all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal. >>

reykjavík district “The clothes are chic, cut well and there is a bit of everything for everyone...”

Warsaw Insider chose reykjavik district as their shop of the month (12.2011)

Boutique: Solec 18/20 street, +48 505 499 669 Open: Tue-Fri 13:00-19:30; Sat-Sun 13:00-17:00 www.reykjavikdistrict.pl

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...TILL YOU DROP >> Rodrigo de la Garza (Ochota) ul. Bema 65, suite 6; www.delagarza.it.

Opening hours: by appointment. Rodrigo de la Garza is an eponymous menswear label started up by an ambitious young man from Mexico who’s happened to opt for Poland as his home base. The designer’s speciality is custom-made, or bespoke suits, ideally cut and in all the styles and patterns you could possibly conjure up.

Rudolf & Co. (by appointment only) tel. 790 604 634, . www.rudolfco.com. A team of six tailors, the selection of which took some four years to finalise, sews items in-house. A darling of local press, with bespoke suits a specialty.

Simple (Various Locations) Klif, Arkadia, Sadyba, Blue City and Galeria Mokotów (see site for more locations and opening hours), tel. 22 531 4500 (Klif), . www.simple-cp.com. This original Polish brand has risen up the ranks over the past 15 years to become one of the most stylish labels on the market. Just the place to find minimalist pieces for the office or more . daring dresses for the evening for a reasonable price-quality ratio.

accessories

400 Rabbits (E6) ul. Mokotowska 24, tel. 22 629 2636, . www.rs-store.pl. Open Mon-Fri 13:00-20:00; Sat 12:00-17:00. This is more than just a sneaker shop. Art, sport and fashion unite in this funky space.

Bagatt (E6) ul. Mokotowska 28, tel. 22 621 9144. .

Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00.

Bagatt features Italian-made footwear. A savvy alternative to the upmarket brands up the street on Pl. Trzech Krzyży.

Batycki (various locations) ul. Zgoda 9 & ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44 (Bristol Hotel), tel. 22 828 2167, . www.batycki.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-16:00. Bozena Batycka’s sleek, simple handbag designs are made with italian leather. While her products are not inexpensive by Polish standards, their uniqueness combined with substantial durability make them a perenial favourite.

Chiara (Saska Kępa) Promenada Shopping Centre, .

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ul. Ostrobramska 75C, tel. 22 611 3814. You’d never expect it but this chic little shop stocks the best shoes and bags in the city – stock up on the latest collections from Michael Kors, Celine, Stuart Weitzman, Ralph Lauren and Mulberry.

coveted timepieces in all the world.

Church’s (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 10/14, tel. 22 745 0810.

Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-17:00.

A classic Englishman’s establishment stocking the world’s best dress shoes.

shopping malls

Elf Joy by Kasia Kucharska (by appt) tel. 792 793 729, www.elfjoy.com. Kasia Kucharska travels all over the world to find stones that she turns into brilliant hand-made pieces of semi-precious stones, including amethyst, tourmaline and garnett. Available by special order.

Blue City (A6) Al. Jerozolimskie 179, www.bluecity.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00, Sun 10:00-20:00

Frey Wille (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 37, tel. 22 827 5503, . www.frey-wille.com. Open Mon-Fri 10:0019:00; Sat 10:00-17:00. You may not find a diamond ring here, but this is certainly the place to go to if you’re looking for jewellery that will spice up your outfits with a brilliant splash of colour. These Vienna-based jewellers work almost entirely in enamels made by mixing finely-ground glass and minerals.

Furla (E5) Galeria Mokotów, ul. Wołoska 12, tel. 22 541 3896, www.furla.com. Open Mon-Sat 10:0022:00; Sun 10:00-21:00. The highly-coveted handbag label’s flagship store in Warsaw features all the latest styles from Milan.

Hermitage Boutique (D3) Metropolitan Building, Pl. Piłsudskiego 1, . tel. 22 323 7676, www.hermitage.pl. .

Get set to indulge at Warsaw’s most . prestigious fine watch and jewelry boutique.

Offers a world-class selection of pieces from Girard Perregaux, Chopard, Bvlgari, Blancpain, Chaumet, de Grisogono, Omega, Breitling and Scatolo del Tempo, along with limited edition Vertu mobiles.

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HOS&me ul. Mokotowska 63, www.mokotowska63.com Luxury jewelry and the best in the biz. In stock: high end treasures from Nialaya, Lene Bjerre Design, Ti Sento, Christensen and Dryberg/Kern.

Hublot Boutique (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 2, tel. 22 821 0101. .

This luxury boutique features the most

Wa r s a w I n s i d e r : 0 1 - 3 1 J a n u a r y 2 0 1 2

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Lilou ul. Mokotowska 63, www.lilou.pl .

Modular jewelry made simple, and a must for all Warsaw fashionista.

Arkadia (A1) Al. Jana Pawła II 82, www.arkadia.com.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-21:00

Fashion House Outlet Centre (E8) ul. Puławska 42E, www.fashionhouse.pl Galeria KEN Center/ E. Leclerc (Ursynów) ul. Ciszewskiego 15, www.eleclerc.pl. Open Mon-Thurs 9:00-21:30, Fri 9:00-22:00, Sun 9:00-21:00 Galeria Mokotów (C12) ul. Wołoska 12, www.galeriamokotow.com.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-20:00 Likus Concept Store Wolf Center, ul. Bracka 9, . www.likusconceptstore.pl Poland’s premier address for designer tags – you won’t find more designer labels per . sq/m anywhere else. Money spenders inc.

Jimmy Choo, Paul Smith, Dries van Noten, Stella McCartney etc…

Klif (A2) ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4500, . www.klif.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00 Panorama (G10) Al. Witosa 31, tel. 22 640 1400. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-16:00 Promenada (Saska Kępa) ul. Ostrobramska 75c, www.promenada.com.

Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-19:00 Złote Tarasy (C4) ul. Złota 59, www.zlotetarasy.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00 Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Health and Fitness Club.

LIFESTYLE Accommodation, Education and more...

INDEX Accommodation ��������������������������������������������������� p.66 Transportation �������������������������������������������������������p.72 Community Contacts �������������������������������������������� p.68 Education ��������������������������������������������������������������p.73 Health and Beauty �������������������������������������������������p.71

Insider’s Pick “ That’s the whole point of Astanga – to exert oneself in a warm room and to really get sweating”

PHOTOGRAPH BY ARTUR WIŚNIEWSKI

HOT FIND

Astanga Yoga Studio ul. Gałczyńskiego 4, tel. 22 465 8810, www.astanga.pl.

Classes 7:00-13:00; 16:30-21:00.

I’

ve been an on-and-off yoga fiend for much of my adult life – off when my work schedule gets overly hectic and on when things start to cool down. The irony is, the more stressed at work I am, the more I need yoga to get me balanced at the end of the day. So I’ve decided to give up all those excuses about how I don’t have enough time and dedicate myself to at least 3-5 classes per week.

I’ve long been a fan of Yoga na Foksal, but these days it’s just way too crowded. Luckily, there are more yoga studios cropping up – bigger, cleaner and more modern than the ones of the past.

Astanga Yoga, which is a yogic legend in Warsaw, has moved from its tiny quarters on Żurawia to a spanking-new home on Gałczyńskiego – incidentally, just a few feet from Foksal. I’m always wary of starting off at a new place, but it’s friendly and fun, too. You ride up the elevator in a rather drab office building, but when you finally get upstairs,

the place welcomes you with a reception-cum-cafe full of organic and vegan goodies. Equally welcome, Astanga touts roomy dressing rooms and separate bathrooms for men and women with two, not just one, stalls.

The surprising thing about this studio is probably the fact that the temperature is elevated and there’s an impression of stuffiness.

Yet at my first lesson it was explained that this is the whole point of Astanga – to exert oneself in a warm room and to really get sweating.

And sweat I did, this isn’t your grandma’s yoga – all the positions are done in routines that have you horizontal one second and lateral the next, with your heart pumping and your endorphins flowing.

I’m quite happy with the classes here at Astanga, but I’m making the rounds of several other studios in town to find my absolute perfect match. After all, if I’m going to be spending close to ten hours a week here, I’ve got to be happy. Especially at zł. 25 a pop – although an open pass for a month is a more reasonable zł. 235. For those who can’t commit, there are loads of in-between options that make Astanga all the more attractive. (AL)

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LIFESTYLE >>

Accommodation

Some hotel prices might not include VAT

APARTMENTS, HOTELS

­top hotels in Warsaw 5-star hotels

tel. 22 551 1000, www.starwoodhotels.com.

Single room: €129-159, double room: €139-169. Fitness centre, gym, swimming pool, sauna.

Mamaison Le Régina Hotel Warsaw (C1) ul. Kościelna 12, tel.22 531 6000, Hilton Warsaw (B4) www.mamaison.com. Muffle up for an evening ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555, prowl around old town, before spoiling www.hilton.com. Single and double room yourself inside the desginer confines of this €95-125 (weekend), €135 (weekdays). Excelboutique masterpiece. Prices start from lent services and amenities in a world-class approx. €115, but it’s well worth your time hotel and conference centre. Holmes Place browsing their ‘romantic break’ and ‘just Lifestyle Club offers premium fitness facilities. married’ packages.

Hyatt Regency Warsaw (E8) ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, www.warsaw.regency@hyatt.com, www.warsaw.regency.hyatt.com. Venti Tre Italian Restaurant, Q Club Restaurant and Bar, Club Oasis Fitness Centre, indoor swimming pool, spa & massage services. Offical base of Poland’s Euro 2012 football team.

InterContinental (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com. Single & double rooms: €95-155. Riverview Wellness Centre and swimming pool on top floor.

Le Meridien Bristol (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44,

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Sofitel Victoria (D3) ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8011, www.orbis.pl. Single & double rooms: €95200. Swimming pool now open to the public.

Westin (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, www.westin.com/warsaw. Single & double rooms: €77-126. Gym and sauna.

Marriott (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 6306, www.marriott.com/wawpl Single & double rooms: zł. 528 (weekdays), zł. 376 (weekend). 4-star hotels Gym and swimming pool.

Jan III Sobieski (B5) pl. Zawiszy 1, tel. 22 579 1000, The Rialto Boutique Hotel (D6) www.sobieski.com.pl Single & double rooms ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8700, €60-94. Gym, jacuzzi, sauna. www.hotelrialto.com.pl. Top-class boutique hotel in the centre of Warsaw. Single room: Holiday Inn (C4) €140, double room: €170, apartment: €220. ul. Złota 48/54, tel. 22 697 3999, 24-hour fitness centre for guests only. www.holiday-inn.com. Single room: €100 (weekend), €124 (weekdays), double room: Sheraton (E5) €120 (weekend), €144 (weekdays). Gym, ul. Prusa 2, www.sheraton.com/warsaw, jacuzzi, sauna.­ tel. 22 450 6100. Single & double rooms: €77126. Fitness centre, aerobic studio, sauna.

Mercure Grand Warszawa (D4) ul. Krucza 28, tel. 22 583 2100, www.orbis.pl.

Single & double rooms: €78-112.

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Over 1,000 used and new vehicles, all with warranty!

Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel (C3) ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888. Single & double rooms zł. 420-490 (weekend rate from zł.250). First Class Fitness Centre.

We buy FOR cash

Courtyard by Marriott Hotel (Airport) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 0100, www.courtyard.com/wawcy. Single & double rooms: €135 (weekdays), €99 (weekend).

Novotel Warszawa Centrum (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 94/98, tel. 22 596 0000, www.novotel.com, www.accorhotels.com.

Single and double rooms: zł.265-480.

Wellness centre and sauna.

Polonia Palace Hotel (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. 22 318 2800, www.poloniapalace.com. Single & double rooms: €60–235. 24-hour fitness centre for hotel guests only.

“We speak English, French, German and Vietnamese” - autoauto.pl Three locations: al. Krakowska 178, ul. Ostrobramska 73, al. Jana Pawła 69 tel. 22 487 5777 and 22 487 5779

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Airport Hotel Okęcie ul. 17-ego Stycznia 24, tel. 22 456 8000, www.airporthotel.pl. Airport Hotel Okęcie

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ACCOMMODATION is located 800 m from Warsaw Frederic Chopin Airport. Single & double rooms: €155, €123 (weekdays). Single & double rooms: €70-80 (weekends). Jacuzzi, sauna, tennis courts, and gym.

3-star hotels Hotel Belwederski (E8) ul. Sulkiewicza 11, tel. 22 840 4011, www.hotelbelwederski.pl. Single room: zł. 240, double room: zł. 280. On weekends 20% discount (Fri-Mon). Breakfast included.

Castle Inn (D1) Pl. Zamkowy, ul. Świętojańska 2, tel. 22 425 0100, www.castleinn.pl.

Single & double rooms (Standard castle view): zł.190-290. Deluxe apartments: zł.

279-430. Breakfast: zł. 20. Artsy boutique accomodation on the castle square.

Golden Tulip (B5) ul. Towarowa 2, tel. 22 582 7500. Single & double rooms: Mon.-Fri. zł. 369, weekend: zł.

299, breakfast (buffet): zł. 32. Sauna, jacuzzi, fitness room.

Warsaw Gromada Hotel Airport ul. 17-ego Stycznia 32, tel. 22 576 4600, warszawa.airport@gromada.pl. Single & double rooms: zł. 250-420 (weekdays), single & double rooms: zł. 200-330 (weekends). Sauna, gym, free for hotel guests.

Hotel Reytan (E8) ul. T. Rejtana 6, tel. 22 201 6400, www. reytan.pl. Single room: zł. 360 (week), zł. 250

(weekend). Double room: zł. 390-550 (week), zł. 270-390 (weekend). Breakfast included.

Mercure Warszawa Fryderyk Chopin (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 22, tel. 22 528 0300, www.orbis.pl. Single & double rooms: €90100. Swimming pool, fitness room, massages, Finnish sauna, gym, power plate.

Novotel Warszawa (Airport) ul. 1-ego Sierpnia 1, tel. 22 575 6000, nov.airport@orbis.pl. Single & double rooms: €120-135. Swimming pool, jacuzzi, tennis court, Finnish sauna, power plate.

top hotels around Poland

Kraków 5-star hotels

Hotel Stary ul. Szczepańska 5, tel. 12 421 4865. Single & double rooms €245-275. Sauna, fitness centre, Spa & Wellness centre, indoor swimming pool, salt cave, roof top bar.

4-star hotels Hotel Pod Różą ul. Floriańska 14, tel. 12 424 3300. Single & double bedrooms €187-207. Sauna, fitness centre, hiking.

Kazimierz Dolny

Król Kazimierz ul. Puławska 86, tel. 81 880 9999, www.krolkazimierz.pl. Grand four star hotel. Available activities include bowling,

billiard, a full featured spa, a bar and a night club.

Northeast Poland

Hotel Zamek Ryn Plac Wolności 2, Ryn, tel 87 429 7000, www.zamekryn.pl. This impressive hotel, perched on a hill by an idyllic lake, is perfect for group flings like annual company gatherings, and other mass bonding celebrations such as weddings and anniversaries.

Gościniec Jaczno (Jaczno Lodge) (Suwałki Lakes district) Jaczno 3, Jeleniewo, tel. 87 568 3590, www.jaczno.pl, jaczno@jaczno.pl.

Single & double rooms zł. 210-330. Apartments zł. 350-490. Luxurious chalet-style lodge offering biking, fishing, hiking, steam & Finnish sauna, fitness club.

apartments & real estate E-Expert

WARSAW REAL ESTATE & MORTAGE ADVISE

E-Expert Nieruchomości Kredyty Inwestycje ul. Kopernika 28/1, tel. 606 630 300, www.e-expert.org. Real-estate advisory services for rent and purchase of premium properties across Warsaw, as well as investment advisory for developments across Poland and mortgage servicing for locals and expats.

www.warsawinsider.pl

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LIFESTYLE >>

Community Contacts GET CONNECTED

Alcoholics Anonymous for Foreigners Based on the traditional AA format, in Warsaw meetings take place on ul. Radna, buzzer #3.

Group meets Mon, Tues, Thurs 18:00 and Sat 11:00 (except the first Saturday of the month).

American Friends in Warsaw AFW offers a variety of social activities, family events and ‘hands-on’ outreach programs supporting vital needs in our host country.

For more information: info@afw.waw.pl.

Amnesty International ul. Piękna 66a, apartment no. 2, 1st floor; tel/fax: 22 827 6000; e-mail: amnesty@ amnesty.org.pl. Donations can be made to Zachodni WBK S.A. 6 O/Gdańsk 85 1090 1098 0000 0000 0959 0181.

Art Friends’ Society For info, contact Justyna Napiórkowska: e-mail: justyna@napiorkowska.pl, mob.

0603 378 567.

Blanc Lys (Wola) ul. Księcia Janusza 23, tel. 508 162 810,

www.blanc-lys.com. The first self-service laundromat in Warsaw, open daily 08:0020:00. Free wi-fi.

Bread of Life (Chleb Życia) ul. Nowogrodzka 6, www.chlebzycia.org.pl.

Sells items made by both the homeless and women fleeing domestic violence. If you’re interested in the work of the Bread of Life, or would simply like to sponsor a student, email Elizabeth via iwgwarsaw@yahoo.com.

Cumann Warszawa Gaelic Football Team Poland’s first Gaelic football team is up and running. The club offers weekly training, competitive games against other European GAA opposition and regular social events and is open to players and members from all nationalities. For more information contact Eoin 518 425 587 or cumannwarszawa@gmail. com.

Dharma Yoga in English. It’s well worth visiting the English/ Polish website for more information on the specific practices of this type of yoga, the

Hot Pick

T

he ultimate all-in-one. Here your child will develop his/her physical, intellectual, emotional and social skills while having fun stretching and exercising. The project is the brainchild of Robin Wes, an American kinesiologist, concieved as far back as the 70s and now finally here in Poland.

In this program each new challenge stems from the previous one to stimulate the child’s brain. All of it is there to help with concentration, listening skills, and the ability to take risks among other vital skills – and

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Dr Clown Foundation ul. Goszczyńskiego 9, www.drclown.pl.

Provide Patch Adams-style entertainment to kids in 68 hospitals and clinics across Poland.

Further info: tel. 22 854 0501, 02 or 03.

English Speaking Book Club We meet once a month in Ganders Teahouse (ul. Francuska 12). The meetings provide a good opportunity for stimulating discussions and for those new to Warsaw - a chance of meeting people in a very relaxed setting.

There are no membership fees. For more info, contact: marzena.reich@gmail.com.

The English-Speaking Expatriate Business Owners in Poland Association This non-profit association serves a niche group of expatriates within the framework of “expat CEOs helping expat CEOs without

“ In this program each new challenge stems from the previous one to stimulate the child’s brain”

The Little Gym ul. Bruzdowa 56, tel. 22 842 0728, www.thelittlegym.pl

offers at hand for first-time students as well as sneaking a peak at the photo journalism of key practitioner, Sabina Steckiewicz’s travels around India. Find out more at: www.dharmayoga.pl.

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don’t think that your kid will be weighed down by all this stimulation.

For him/her the only thing that will matter is letting out that energy while exercising to music.

Neither is age a limiting factor; The Little Gym offers tailor-made programs for tots as young as four months, to big, bouncing bruisers up to twelve years of age. Furthermore, should you feel unsteady about letting your little one, especially the very little one, roam completely free you too can participate in the activities. Given the wholesome nature of the program, it’s hands down the best alternative to the boring PE lessons that children grow to loathe – and for good reason! (KK)

COMMUNITY business competition getting in-between.”

For further information, please contact Richard Whipple (Founder), tel. 504 346 406.

European Social Democrats in Poland Contact Tim Clapham at tel. 22 624 0470, timclapham@poczta.onet.pl or Jean-Yves Leconte at mob. 0604 960 555, jy.leconte@ assemblee-afe.fr.

The Ex-Animo Foundation An organization that helps care for young cancer patients at the Children’s Memorial Health Institute - the largest children’s oncology center in Poland. www.exanimo.pl.

Expats-in-Poland.com Forum, news, free legal advice, extensive information and services for foreigners including immigration, work permits, driving licences, renting and buying properties, healthcare, education and more. For more information: www.expats-in-poland.com.

Expatriates Services PFF ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 67/11. Offers services for foreigners coming to Poland, including obtaining residence & work permits, visas, setting up business activities as well as legal services and support for foreign investors and business entities. For more information: tel. 22 828 1501, www. pff-warsaw.com.

Food Banks All thirty food banks operating in Poland deliver food aid to those in need – as many

as 5 million people. To donate food or get involved go to www.bankizywnosci.pl.

Foundation for Poland This is a charity organization that reaches out to street children and other youths. They also manage a number of other projects. For more information: www.fdp.org.pl.

Friends Creative Activities ul. 334 Przyczółkowa, tel. 22 642 0843, www.friends-ca.pl.Handicraft workshops for both kids and adults alike. Come and visit our world of creative activities and share your passion with us...

Frogs & Co. Warsaw’s expatriate men’s rugby team, trains Saturdays from 12:00 at Skra Stadium, ul. Wawelska 5. For more information: Christian, mob. 0502 198 782.

Fundacja Dziecięca Fantazja Poland’s own “Make-A-Wish Foundation” focus to “light up the lives” of terminally-ill children in Poland by making their fondest wishes and dreams come true. More info at: email: info@f-df.pl, www.f-df.pl.

Fundacja Świętego Mikołaja ul. Przesmyckiego 40, Piaseczno, tel. 22 825 0390. The St. Nicholas Foundation has been contributing funds to needy children and families for over ten years. To support the foundation, wire funds to Volkswagen Bank Polska S.A. 64 2130 0004 2001 0299 9993 0001 (KRS 0000126602). www.mikolaj.org.pl.

Habitat for Humanity International (F11) This is a non-profit organization that helps the working poor build and afford their own houses. For more information: ul. Idzikowskiego 2/16, tel. 22 642 9520, poland@habitat.pl, www.habitat.pl.

International Rotary Club The only English speaking Rotary Club in Warsaw. Visiting Rotarians are welcome to join the weekly meetings held at the Polonia Palace Hotel, Al. Jerozolimskie 45. For info: tel. 601 897 731.

International Women’s Group of Warsaw Unites expat women in Warsaw and offers cultural, educational and recreational activities. Meetings are generally held on the second and fourth Monday of the month.

For more info email iwgwarsaw@yahoo.com.

Italiani in Polonia ul. Dąbrowskiego 82C, tel. 22 845 0652, www.italianiinpolonia.org. The biggest Italian community group in Warsaw. Hosts regular social gatherings, lectures and special events for members.

The Kurt Scheller Academy (D6) Offers top-standard cooking lessons. For more information: ul. Piękna 68, tel. 22 626 8092, akademia@schelleracademy.com.pl.

Mabor Acculturation Services Expatriates feeling a bit of “culture shock” in Poland can find refuge at Mabor. The organization hosts 2-hour meetings led >>

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LIFESTYLE >> by a trained cultural psychologist that help members with the adaptive acculturation process, providing tools for understanding and accepting a new social environment.

Meetings take place at the end of every month at Mabor headquarters. Cost per session zł.100. For info, contact Anna Osinski at: a.osinska@mabor.com.pl.

New Europe Writers Ink (D5) A fellowship of writers creating poetry and prose fiction in English. For more information: ul. Marszałkowska 80, mailbox 151, editor@ new-ink.org, www.new-europe-writers-ink.com.

Pol-in.pl – Professional Expat Assistance Information and services for foreigners such as: residence permit, visas, work permit, real estate, money transfer (Western Union), car rental and more. Info: www.pol-in.pl.

Professionals in Warsaw Hosts meetings in the city to link up professionals, those new to Warsaw, or those here for the long haul. For more info contact Andy (mob. 691 535 566) or the group page on Facebook.

St. Patrick’s Foundation www.irishball.pl. The Irish Ball, held on the Saturday closest to St. Patrick’s Day, is legendary in Warsaw as the biggest of the balls. It’s the main annual fund-raiser of the foundation, which distributes the funds raised to various charities over the course of the year.

Talizman The Talizman Foundation is a non-profit

registered charity. More info: www.talizman.org. information, contact Randy Gabrielson 606 247 347 or e-mail to: warsawbeavers@gmail.

Taste of the Classics com.

A Taste of the Classics is a classical music, fine art and dinner entertainment, held The Warsaw School of Photography regularly in prime locations. The events A leading private institution in Poland offering alternate between formal and semi-formal photography courses in English for beginners dress and are held in English. Attendance is by and intermediate, theory, practice and field invitation and includes dinner and wine. trips. For more information: www.wsfoto.art.

To request an invitation or for further pl/english. information please contact Richard Berkeley: berkeley@fnok.pl or tel. 502 965 353.

Toastmasters International (E5) Toastmasters Polska club invites all to the weekly meetings, to master the art of Public Speaking and presentation skills. Meetings every Wednesday at 19.00 in the Warsaw Stock Exchange, Catalyst room 1st floor, ul. Książęca 4. Guests are most welcome with no commitment other than a short introduction. More info at toastmasters.org.pl or ring Etan at tel.

696 292 451.

children

Little Chef Cooking classes for children age 4-16. Groups for younger children age 4-10 and Junior Chef courses age 11-16. Kids cook-and-eat healthy meals. Great fun! Classes in English, French and Polish, Mon-Sat. Visit www.littlechef.pl or call 0501 093 691 for more information.

The Little Gym ul. Bruzdowa 56, tel. 22 842 0728, www.thelittlegym. pl. Over 300 locations worldwide, with the Warsaw one set to open this November.

Expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-to-child ratio and a ‘weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun.’

TravelFriends.pl TravelFriends.pl is a community travel portal designed for anyone who’s up for meeting new people, whether it’s searching for travel companions or roommates, finding a partner, spicing up your free time, or just widening your circle of friends. For further information, contact Beata Sieradzka at info@travelfriends. pl, www.travelfriends.pl.

Mums & Tots Brings together expat mothers, toddlers Warsaw Beavers and babies for various activities. For more Warsaw’s first expatriate ice hockey team information: postmaster@mumsandtots.com, trains Thursday and Sunday nights. For more www.mumsandtots.com.

JOIN US NOW !

www.thelittlegym.pl Parent/Child Classes

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Pre-school

Primary School Gymnastics

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Holiday Camps

Birthday parties

HEALTH & BEAUTY

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updates

Health & Beauty BODY AND MIND

spas & salons

AcuMed Asian Therapies ul. Sempołowska 3, tel. 608 355 100, www.tuina.pl. Qigong – Daoyin – Meditation in small groups. Also offers special exercises for improving physical & mental health and increasing energy.

BodyClinic ul. Oboźna 9 lok. 104, tel. 22 826 1160, www.bodyclinic.pl. Thorough body care for everyone. From the usual options to a huge variety of massages and some very exotic treatments, BodyClinic covers all the bases.

The Cutting House – Exclusive Hairdressing (E5) ul. Wiejska 20, www.cuttinghouse.pl, tel. 22 622 6362. The Cutting Salon has an elegant polish on a contemporary design and a wide variety of celebs, diplomats and your run-of-the-mill fashionista dropping in for a trim or a manicure. You will not be disappointed.

Dotyk SPA ul. Biały Kamień 3, 22 898 7272, www. dotykspa.pl Probably the only place in Warsaw where you’ll get a facial yoga session.

Going futher East, treat yourself to Japanese, Polynesian or Indian massage, as well as all the other more typical spa services.

Dior Institute and Dessange Beauty Salon Metropolitan Building, pl. Piłsudskiego 1, tel. 22 331 0808, www.diorinstitut.com.

This sleek boutique offers a state-of-the-art treatment room and professional staff for all your pampering needs.

Hair Club Warsaw ul. Kruczkowskiego 6, tel. 22 828 0288, www.hairclubwarsaw.pl. Hair Club dispense with the farce and make your hair look great.

They also provide manicures and pedicures and even throw in a decent free coffee.

Fabryka Próżnosci ul.Cecylii Śniegockiej 8 lok.101, tel. 22 312 1909, www.fabrykaproznosci.pl.

Has a full suit of facials, massages (all the main schools are represented); competitive prices, and plenty of English-speaking therapists.

Le Spa (E5) ul. Mokotowska 55, tel. 22 622 9428.

This little island of peace and beauty takes you light-years away from the bustle of Warsaw.

You can be assured to spend a few blissful hours here and then walk out looking incredible.

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Fish Spa ul. Wilcza 11, tel. 22 414 3737, www.fishspainstytut.pl. Let 200 Garra Rufa fish do the work on your pedicure and manicure. Alternatively, enjoy more traditional (ie. less fishy) facials and body massages – all at reaonable prices in the heart of the center.

Hair-a-Porter (E8) Hotel Hyatt, ul. Belwederska 23, Level -1, tel. 22 558 1555. The friendly staff provides full-service hair and nail treatments for men and women.

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Hair & Nail Concept ul. Marynarska 50, tel. 22 360 40404, www.hairandnailconcept.pl. Top class hair & nail care, as well as a créche and disabled facilities.

Multico Wellness & Spa ul. Bitwy pod Rokitną 1 (in Old Żoliborz), tel. 22 869 9631, www.multico.pl. A modern fitness center and gorgeous pool make this a chic place to work out and relax. Now offers spa services and great massages.

Pearl Spa at the InterContinental (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49, 43 floor, tel. 22 328 8643, www.pearlspa.pl. This bright and full of windows spa has an eclectic menu of “body rituals” such as the Maghreb ritual and Ayurvedic massages.

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Studio Jej i Jego ul. Wiertnicza 93A, tel. 22 885 0085, www.jejijego.pl. Hair and beauty treatments for men and women – inc. nail care, massage, facial and body treatments. >>

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LIFESTYLE At the start of each year we resolve to find more time to develop our passions, skills and interests. If what you love is cooking, then the perfect place to get to work on those resolutions is Kurt Scheller’s Academy, which has been training amateurs and professionals for over a decade. Whether your ambition is sushi, French cuisine, oriental or Andalusian cooking you will find yourself blossoming under Kurt’s watchful and attentive eye. Every active participant is given the tools and inspiration to discover his or her hidden culinary talents. Classes can last a day or a weekend, and will certainly provide every budding chef with something of interest. www.schelleracademy.pl

Transportation GETTING AROUND

car rental

Avis (C5) tel. 22 572 6565, fax 22 572 6566, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 650 4872/3.

Reservations: tel. 801 120 010, www.avis.pl.

Besto Relocations ul. Kłobucka 8 /127, tel. 22 847 8878, mob. 514 643 286, warsaw@bestorelocations.com, www.bestorelocations.com. High-quality international relocation services to and from Poland for corporate and individual clients.

Interdean International Relocation ul. Geodetów 172, Piaseczno, tel. 22 701 7171, fax 22 701 7177, warsaw@interdean.com, www.interdean.com. Some 47 offices in 35 countries which facilitate easing the transition across borders.

Hertz Rent a Car Okęcie Airport, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 2896; mob. 691 411 130. ul.

Nowogrodzka 27 (D5), tel. 22 621 1360.

Reservations: tel. 22 500 1620, 800 143 789.

CorstJens Worldwide Movers Group ul. Nowa 23, Stara Iwiczna, tel. 22 737 7200, www.corstjens.com.

Move One Relocations tel. 22 630 8160, poland@moveonerelo.com, www.moveonerelo.com.

Crown Relocations ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 894 5929 or 22 578 2093, www.crownrelo.com.

travel agency

Sixt Rent a Car ul. Arabska 9, tel. 22 511 1550, 22 511 1555, fax 22 511 1556, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 2031, fax 022 650 2032, www.sixt.pl.

Trust Rent a Car (C12) ul. Konstruktorska 4, mob. 0602 475 355, www.trustrentacar.pl.

relocation companies AGS Warsaw ul. Julianowska 37, Piaseczno, tel. 22 702-1072, fax 022 702-1077, www.ags-worldwide-movers.com.

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DuX Consulting Agency ul. Panieńska 9/17, tel. 22 670 4280, www.duxconsulting.com.pl.

Express Relocations ul. Szyszkowa 35/37, tel. 22 878 3539, www.expressrelocations.com.

Euro Move International Movers ul. Kineskopowa 1, Piaseczno, tel. 22 716 5566, moving@euromove.pl, www.euromove.pl.

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FCm Travel Express al. Jana Pawła II 19, tel. 22 453 5353, travelexpress.pl.

taxis

Ele Taxi tel. 22 811 11 11 Grosik Taxi tel. 22 6464646 Merc tel. 22 677 7777 MPT tel. 22 1919 Sawa tel. 22 644 4444 Super Taxi tel. 22 19622 Volfra tel. 22 19625 Wawa tel. 22 19644

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

COOKING WITH CLASS

TRANSPORTATION/EDUCATION Education

PRESCHOOLS AND SCHOOLS

polish for foreigners

Academia Polonica (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 55 loc.15, tel. 22 629 9311, www.academia-polonica.com.pl. Offers a choice of special programs such as: Polish in Business, General Polish Language, Polish for Academics and Polish for Professionals.

Akademia PFF (H4) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 67/11, tel. 501 299 338, www.pff-warsaw.com, email: info@ pff-warsaw.com. Akademia PFF offers a wide range of Polish courses for foreigners at low cost in-company or other convenient locations. Professional and friendly tutors with effective teaching styles.

Edu & More ul. Marszałkowska 87 lok. 81, tel. 22 622 1441, www.eduandmore.com. Business & everyday Polish. Full-time courses and innovative courses of Polish online. Experience, good location & price friendly. Students of full-time courses get online course for free.

Lingua Polonica Lingua Polonica offers general Polish language classes, Polish for business and Polish for diplomacy. Individual learning programs are tailored to the needs of individual clients.

Private and small-group classes available on a variety of levels for competitive prices.

Professional, friendly and dedicated instructors. They even offer a free trial lesson.

Info: www.linguapolonica.com.pl. Email: linguapolonica@linguapolonica.com.pl.

English. They received the European Label Certificate for innovative foreign language teaching.

The British School Early Years Centre ul. Dąbrowskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646 7777; ul. Limanowskiego 15 (Primary, Secondary, IB Diploma program), tel. 22 842-3281; www.thebritishschool.pl. The British School provides special classes from the pre-nursery group – including children from preschool through secondary school.

Canadian School of Warsaw – Preschool (C11) ul. Kalatówki 24, tel. 22 898 3139, 697 979 100. The pre-school branch of the Canadian School of Warsaw provides both Polish and International 3-5 year olds with the perfect setting for their first encounters with English and French in an inquiry based classroom. Here, every task relates to real life experience and skills. In addition to a rich, international curriculum, the pre-school offers a wide range of extra-curricular activities such as dance, swimming, capoeira, karate and pottery. For further info, tours and school visits please call or email: preschool@ canadian-school.pl.

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations) Warsaw Montessori School ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www. warsawmontessori.edu.pl. Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have 3 green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin.

The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. Call to make an appointment to tour any of the 3 schools.

Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupéry (H4) ul. Nobla 16, Saska Kępa, tel 22 616 1499, www.saint-exupery.pl. Established in 1994, the Antoine de Saint-Exupery preschool and school provides a French curriculum for children 2 to 7 years old. Highly qualified native French-speaking teachers. Welcoming family atmosphere.

The English Playhouse (F12) ul. Płyćwiańska 14a & ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 22 843 9370, www.theenglishplayhouse.

preschools

ABC Play & Learn (H5) ul. Genewska 27, Saska Kępa, tel. 22 616 2066, www.abc.org.pl. Located in the leafy residential district of Saska Kępa, ABC Play & Learn provides a creative and educational space for small children, with capacious play rooms filled with toys and hands-on materials.

Bilingual French – Polish Preschool “Trampoline” ul. Zakopiańska 12a (Saska Kępa) and ul. Skrzetuskiego 17 (Mokotów),mob.

0502 355 919, www.trampoline.edu.pl.

This preschool has a lingual profile and offers bilingual teaching with French and

>>

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LIFESTYLE >> com. The English Playhouse functions in the quiet, green residential district of Mokotów, next to Królikarnia Park. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months till six years old. Now with an additional location in Wilanów which includes a new, purpose-built pre-school building with a huge garden for children up to six years of age. For info call Agnieszka Weston on 604 464 333 or email: office@theenglishplayhouse.com.

The European Bilingual Preschool ul. Chłapowskiego 1, tel. 22 644 1514, mob.

0605 561 514, info@preschool.waw.pl, www.preschool.waw.pl.

HAPPY HOME Childcare ul. Okrężna 23, Konstancin-Jeziorna, tel. 22 717 5513, fax 22 717 5145, mob. 608 369 269, 501 495 543, preschool@happy-home.pl, www.happyhomechildcare.eu. An international preschool located in Konstancin, close to the American School of Warsaw. Ideal childcare facility for children aged 16 months to 5 years. “Happy Home is Your Home” is their motto, aiming to combine a family atmosphere with education, promote the harmonious development of children through play and getting to know themselves and the world.

Happy Montessori House Warsaw Montessori Pre-school, ul. Rumiana 14, tel. 22 427 3767, mob. 697 060 504, www.hmh.com.pl. The Happy Montessori House offers part-time and full-time places

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for children aged between 2.5 to 6 years, as well as toddler-focused activities (from 18 months to 3 years) centered around movement, sensorial stimulation, storytelling, singing and socialising. Children are given ample time and opportunity to explore and work at their own pace and in their own learning style, with a focus on global education according to the world-famous Montessori philosophy.

International American School ul. Dembego 18, tel. 22 649 1440 or 603 952 955, www.ias.edu.pl, email: secretary@ias.edu.pl. The International American School of Warsaw provides pre-Kindergarten through 12th grade education based on a dual diploma system for IB and Polish curricula. Accredited by the Polish Ministry of Education, Northwest Association of Accredited Schools and IB Organization. 5:1 student/faculty ratio and extensive extracurricular activities.

International Preschool (E11) ul. Zawrat 14, tel. 22 843 0964, preschool@ preschool.pl, www.preschool.pl. Serving the children of American Embassy and non-embassy families for over 50 years, the International Preschool of Warsaw is located in the heart of Mokotów district.

La Fontaine Polish-French Pre-School ul. Rolna 177, Mokotów, tel.22 843 4241 & ul. Pogonowskiego 19, Żoliborz, tel. 0 502 051 360, www.lafontaineprzedszkole.pl.

This preschool has a Polish-French profile

Wa r s a w I n s i d e r : 0 1 - 3 1 J a n u a r y 2 0 1 2

and offers bilingual teaching.

Mama Marta’s Toddlers Centre Mama Marta’s Toddlers Centre is an English-speaking play and learn group in Old Mokotów, dedicated to infants 16 months to 3 years of age. It offers a gentle introduction to nursery education. Contact: marta. cross@neostrada.pl, mob. 607 704 396.

Maple Leaf Preschool ul. Żołny 16, tel. 22 644 2326, office@canadianschool.edu.pl, www.canadianschool.edu.pl. Polish-Canadian Preschool with two locations on the outskirts of Warsaw, ul. Czereśniowa 31a, WarszawaWłochy, tel. 22 863 7756 and ul. Żołny 16, tel. 644 23 26, mob. 501 251 414.

Międzynarodowa Szkoła Podstawowa Argonaut ul. Radarowa 6, tel. 504 509 504, www.argonaut.edu.pl. This elementary school is open for children of all nationalities and backgrounds. It places a focus on learning English as well as additional languages, and has an attractive list of available extracurricular activities.

Montessori Academy for International Children ul. Królewicza Jakuba 36 (Wilanów) ul. Sadowa 4 (Konstancin), tel. 502 315 022, www.montessoriacademy. eu. An English-speaking pre-school (16 months to 6 years of age) with two locations.

EDUCATION The school’s policy is to comply with Montessori standards, using the Montessori Method in English. The school’s philosophy is based on the joy of learning, which comes from discovering and furthering the individual development of each child. Offers extracurricular activities, such as: art, dance, yoga, football and summer art & sport camps.

schools

American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202, Konstancin-Jeziorna, tel. 22 702 8500, fax 022 702 8500, admissions@aswarsaw.org, www.aswarsaw.org. The American School of Warsaw provides comprehensive programs and facilities based on a US system of education for ages 4 to 18.

The British School ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, british@thebritishschool.pl, www.thebritishschool.pl. Top-ranking private school in Warsaw with comprehensive programs and facilities based on the British system of education.

Canadian School of Warsaw – Primary School Unit ul. Bełska 7, tel. 22 646 9289, 697 970 244.

The Canadian School of Warsaw provides a continuum of IB-based education for 6-10 year olds. Highly qualified, international

staff, challenging materials and a friendly atmosphere provides for an optimal setting for the highest standard of education. Extra-curricular activities include pottery, dance, ballet, capoeira, karate, emotional intelligence, art studio and tennis. For further info, tours and school visits please call or email: secretary@canadian-school.pl.

Canadian School of Warsaw – Middle and High School Unit ul. Olimpijska 20, tel. 697 977 600, 697 979 300. The Middle and High unit of the Canadian School of Warsaw provides a continuum of IB-based education for 11-19 year olds. With both Canadian and Polish curricula content students are given the opportunity to choose between Polish Matura or IB Diploma exams. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create a perfect learning and creative thinking environment. For further info, tours and school visits please call or email: mid. high@canadian-school.pl.

Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupéry (H4) ul. Nobla 16. Saska Kępa tel 22 616-14-99 www.saint-exupery.pl First Montessori curriculum in French in Warsaw. The Antoine de Saint-Exupéry preschool is

opening in September 2011 a Montessori classroom for children from 2 years old.

International American School ul. Dembego 18, tel. 22 649 1440, 649 1442 or 0603 952 955, www.ias.edu.pl, email: secretary@ias.edu.pl. The International American School of Warsaw provides pre-Kindergarten through 12th grade education based on a dual diploma system for IB and Polish curricula. Accredited by the Polish Ministry of Education, Northwest Association of Accredited Schools and IB Organization.

International European School ul. Wiertnicza 75, tel. 22 842 4448, ies@ ies-warsaw.pl. In operation since 2002 the International European School teaches the Polish National Curriculum in English language to both primary and mid-school level.

La Fontaine Polish-French Primary Schoolul. Okrężna 95, Mokotów, tel. 22 885 0020, www.lafontaine. edu.pl. The school has a Polish-French profile and offers bilingual teaching for children aged from 6 to 12 years old.

Warsaw Montessori School (G7) ul. Szwoleżerów 4, tel. 22 841 3908, sylvia@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www.warsawmontessori.edu.pl. Focuses on the Montessori curriculum with an education based on the integration of conceptual learning and real-life experiences.

www.warsawinsider.pl

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STREET INDEX 1 Sierpnia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . A11 3 Maja al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 29 Listopada . . . . . . . . . . . . G7 Adampolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . H3 Agrykola . . . . . . . . . . . . E6, F6-7 Akacjowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Angorska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Anielewicza . . . . . . . . . . .A2-B1 Armii Ludowej al. . . . .C-D7, E-F6 Asfaltowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Asnyka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6, B6 Baboszewska . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Bacciarellego . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Bachmacka . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Baczyńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Badowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Bagatela . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Bagno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 Bajońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Baleya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A10 Balladyny . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Balonowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Bałuckiego . . . . . . . . . . . .E9-10 Banacha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A8 Bandoski . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10 Barokowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Barska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Bartoszewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Bartoszka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G-H10 Bartycka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H7 Batorego . . . . . . . . . . . .C8, D7-8 Batumi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Bednarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E2 Beethovena . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Belgijska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Belwederska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Bełska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Berezyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Biała . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B3 Białoskórnicza . . . . . . . . . .D-E2 Białostocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Biały Kamień . . . . . . . . . . . . .B8 Bielawska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Blaszana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Bliska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1-2 Bluszczańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H8 bł.Władysława . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Bobrowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Boczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Boleść . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Bonifraterska . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Boryszewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Boya-Żeleńskiego . . . . . . . . .E7 Braci Pilatich . . . . . . . . . . .E9-10 Bracka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Browarna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Bruna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8 Bryły . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D12 Brzeska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Brzozowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Bugaj . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Bukietowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D11 Bukowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Bukszpanowa . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Buraczana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Burgaska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Bytnara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Canaletta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Chałubińskiego . . . . . . . . . . .C5 Chełmska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Chłodna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B3 Chmielna . . . . . . . . . . .B-C5, D4 Chocimska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Chodkiewicza . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Chopina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Ciasna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Ciepła . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4 Cisowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Corazziego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Cybulskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Czackiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Czarnomorska . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Czeczota . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D10 Czerniakowska . . . . . . . . .G6, F5 Czerska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Czerwijowskiego . . . . . . . . . .E6 Czeska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Czubatki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C7 Daleka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Daniłowiczowska . . . . . . . . . .C2 Dantyszka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Dąbrowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Dąbrowskiego . . . . . . . . . .C9-10 Dąbrówki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Defilad pl. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 Długa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Dmochowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Dobra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Dolańskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1

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Dolna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Domaniewska . . . . . . . . . . .D12 Dożynkowa . . . . . . . . . .D9, E10 Dragonów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G7 Drużynowa . . . . . . . . . . . .D9-10 Dubois . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B1 Dworkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Dynasy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Dzielna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B2 Dzika . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1 Elektoralna . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C3 Emilii Plater . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4-5 Esperanto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A2 Estońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Etiudy Rewolucyjnej . . . .B10-11 Fabryczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Falęcka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Fałata . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Filona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D12 Filtrowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Finlandzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G3 Fińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C7 Floriańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Flory . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Foksal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Franciszkańska . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Francuska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Frascati . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Fredry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Freta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Frycza-Modrzewskiego . . . . .H1 Furmańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Gagarina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G8 Gallijska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Gałczyńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Gamerskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Gandhiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D10 Garażowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Gen. Andersa . . . . . . . .B1, C1-2 Genewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Gierymskiego . . . . . . . . . .F9-10 Gimnastyczna . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Giżyckiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Glogera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Głogowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Głucha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H2 Gołkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H11 Gomulickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Goszczyńskiego . . . . . . . . . .D10 Goworka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Górskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Górnickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Górnośląska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Górska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Graniczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Grażyny . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Grodzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Grottgera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Grójecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Gruzińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Grzesiuka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H10 Grzybowska . . . . . . . . . A-B4, C3 Hańczy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Hipoteczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Hoene-Wrońskiego . . . . . . .F5-6 Hoffmanowej . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Hołówki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Hoża . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D5 Hrubieszowska . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Huculska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Humańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Idzikowskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Iłżecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A11-12 Imielińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Inspektowa . . . . . . . . . .F12, G11 Irlandzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3-4 Iwicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8-9 Jagiellońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Jaktorowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Jakubowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G3 Jałtańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Jana Pawła II al. . . . . . .A1, B2-4 Jana Sobieskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10, G10-11, H12 Jankowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A10 Jaracza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F3 Jasielska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A9 Jasińskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Jasna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Jaszowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H11 Jaworowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10 Jazdów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Jazgarzewska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Jedwabnicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Jerozolimskie al. . . . .B-C5, D-F4 Jezierskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F6 Jezuicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Joliot Curie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D11 Joselewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1

Joteyki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Kacza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Kalatówki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Kaliska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Kamionkowska . . . . . . . . . . .H2 Kapucyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Karłowicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Karmelicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B2 Karolkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Karowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2-3 Karwińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Katowicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Kaukaska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Kawalerii . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G6 Kazimierzowska . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Kępna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Kielecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Kierbedzia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Kijowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Kilińskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Klonowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Kłopotowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Kolberga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D11 Komedy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8 Konduktorska . . . . . . .E9, F9-10 Konopnickiej . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Konstancińska . . . . . . . . .H11-12 Konstruktorska . . . . . . . . .B-C12 Konwiktorska . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Kopernika . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Korczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H11 Korzeniowskiego . . . . . . . . . .A7 Kostrzewskiego . . . . . . . . . .E10 Koszykowa . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-D6 Kościelna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Kotlarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Kozia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Kozłowskiej . . . . . . . . . . .G-H10 Koźla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Koźmińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Krakowskie Przedmieście . . . . . . . .D2-3 Krasickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Krasnołęcka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Kraushara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Kredytowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Kręta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Krochmalna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B3 Kromera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Krowia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Królewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D3 Królowej Aldony . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Króżańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Krucza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4-5 Kruczkowskiego . . . . . . . . .E3-4 Krymska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Kryniczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Krzywickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Krzywopoboczna . . . . . . . . . .D2 Ks. Poniatowskiego al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4, G3 Ksawerów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Książęca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Księcia Trojdena . . . . . . . . . . .A8 Kubańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Kubusia Puchatka . . . . . . . . .D4 Kwiatowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Langego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C12 Lądowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F8 Lekarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Lenartowicza . . . . . . . . . . .D-E11 Lennona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Leszno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Leszowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C7 Lewartowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .B1 Lewicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Ligocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Limanowskiego . . . . . . . . . .H11 Lindleya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Lipska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Lipskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Lisieckiego “Dziadka” al. . . .E1 Litewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Lorenza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Lubelska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G-H1 Lubkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8-9 Ludna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Ludowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Lwowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 Łazienkowska . . . . . . . . . . .F-G6 Łęczycka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Łomnicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8-9 Łotewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Łowicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Łucka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4 Łużycka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Łyżwiarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Mackiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Madalińskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Magazynowa . . . . . . . . . . . .C12 Maklakiewicza . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Malawskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Malczewskiego . . . . . . . . . .D10 Mangalia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G11 Maratońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Marcinkowskiego . . . . .F1-2, G1 Markowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Marszałkowska . . . .C3-4, D4-5 Marzanny . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Maszyńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Matejki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Mazowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3

Wa r s a wInsider: I n s i d e01-31 r : 0 1 January – 3 1 M 2012 a r ch 2 0 1 1 Warsaw

Meksykańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Melsztyńska . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E8 Melomanów . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H8 Merliniego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Miączyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Miechowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Miecznikowa . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Miedziana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Miła . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1-2, B1 Miłobędzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Miodowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D2 Młocińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1 Młynarskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Mochnackiego . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Modzelewskiego . . . . . . . . .D11 Mokotowska . . . . . . . . .D6, E5-6 Moliera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Mołdawska . . . . . . . . . . . .A9-10 Moniuszki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Morskie Oko . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Mostowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D1 Myśliwiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5-6 Na Skarpie . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4-5 Nabielaka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F8-9 Nalewki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B1 Narbutta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Naruszewicza . . . . . . . . . .D-E11 Natolińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E6 Nehru . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Neseberska . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Niecała . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Niekłańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3-4 Niemcewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Niepodległości al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6-8, D9-12, E12 Niska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B1 Noakowskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 Nobla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Nowiniarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Nowińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1 Nowotarska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G9 Nowogrodzka . . . . . . . . . . .B-D5 Nowolipie . . . . . . . . . . .A3, B2-3 Nowolipki . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B2 Nowomiejska . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Nowosielecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Nowowiejska . . . . . . . . . .C6, D6 Nowy Przejazd . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Nowy Świat . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E4 Nullo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Nurska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Oboźna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E3 Obrońców . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Obserwatorów . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Oczki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C5 Odolańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E9 Odyńca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-E10 Ogrodowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B3 Okolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Okopowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1-2 Okólnik . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Okrąg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4-5 Okrzei . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Oleandrów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D7 Olesińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Olimpijska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Olkuska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Olszowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Ondraszka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7 Opoczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Ordynacka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E4 Orężna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Orla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3-4 Orłowicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4-5 Orzechowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Ossolińskich . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Oszczepników . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Padewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Panieńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Pankiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C5 Pańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 Parkingowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Parkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F8 Paryska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Pasteura . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Paszyna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A2 Pawia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B2 Pereca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4 Piaseczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Piekałkiewicza . . . . . . . . .G-H10 Piesza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Piękna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6, E5-6 Pilicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D10-11 Piłkarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9-10 Piwarskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10 Piwna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1-2 pl. Bankowy . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 pl. Defilad . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 pl. Grzybowski . . . . . . . . . .C3-4 pl. Konstytucji . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 pl. Na Rozdrożu . . . . . . . . . . .E6 pl. Narutowicza . . . . . . . . . . .A6 pl. Piłsudskiego . . . . . . . . . . .D3 pl. Teatralny . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 pl. Trzech Krzyży . . . . . . . . . . .E5 pl. Unii Lubelskiej . . . . . . . . .E7 pl. Zawiszy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 pl. Zbawiciela . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 pl. Żelaznej Bramy . . . . . . . . .C3 Platynowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Płatowcowa . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Pługa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7

Płyćwiańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Pod Kopcem . . . . . . . . . . . .H7-8 Pod Skocznią . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Podchorążych . . . . . . . . . . .F-G8 Podwale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1-2 Pogorzelskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Polkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Polna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6-7, E7 Pory . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G11-12 Poselska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Postępu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B12 Potockiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Powsińska . . . . . . . . . . . .H10-11 Poznańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Praski Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Promenada . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Prosta . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4-5, B4 Próżna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Prusa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Pruszkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .A9 Przechodnia . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Przemysłowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F6 Przyokopowa . . . . . . . . . . . .A4-5 Przystaniowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Ptasia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C3 Puławska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8-12 Pułku Baszta . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Pytlasińskiego . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Racjonalizacji . . . . . . . . . .B11-12 Racławicka . . . . . . . .A-B10, D10 Radomska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Rakowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D8 Raperswilska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Raszyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Ratuszowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Reja . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7 Rejtana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Rektorska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 Rokitnicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7-8 rondo Daszyńskiego . . . . .A4-5 rondo De Gaulle’a . . . . . . . . .E4 rondo Dmowskiego . . . . . .D4-5 rondo Jazdy Polskiej . . . . . . .D7 rondo ONZ . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C4 rondo Radosława . . . . . . . . . .A1 rondo Waszyngtona . . . . . . .H3 Rostafińskich . . . . . . . . . . . . .B8 Rozbrat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5-6 Róż al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Różana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E9 Różyckiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Rudawska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Rychlińskiego . . . . . . . . . . .C-D7 Rynek Starego Miasta . . . . . .D1 Rysia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Samochodowa . . . . . . . .C11-12 Sandomierska . . . . . . . . . .D-E8 Sanocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A9 Sapieżyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Saska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3-4 Schillera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Sempołowskiej . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Senatorska . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D2 Sewerynów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Sędziowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Sękocińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Sielecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8-9 Sienkiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Sienna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4-5, C4 Sikorskiego al. . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Sikorskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Skaryszewska . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Skaryszewski Park . . . . . . . . .H3 Skłodowskiej-Curie . . . . . . . .A7 Skorupki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Słoneczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Słupecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Służewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Smocza . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1-2, B2 Smolna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Smulikowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .F3 Sobieszyńska . . . . . . . . . .F9-10 Soczi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Sokola . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F3-G3 Solariego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Solec . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Solidarności al. . . .A3, B2-3, C2 Sozopolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Spacerowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Spartańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Spiska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B6 Sprzeczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1-2 Srebrna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Stanka al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Stara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Starościńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8 Stawki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B1 Stępińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F8-9 Stopowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Styki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Suligowskiego . . . . . . . . . .G7-8 Sulkiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F8 Syryńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Szara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Szarotki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Szczuczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Szczygla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Szkolna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3-4 Szpitalna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Szucha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Śliska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C4 Śniadeckich . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6

Śniegockiej . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Św. A. Boboli . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Św. Barbary . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Św. Bonifacego . . . . . . . . . .H12 Św. Franciszka . . . . . . . . . . .F3-4 Świętojańska . . . . . . . . . . . .D1-2 Świętojerska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Świętokrzyska . . . . . . .C4, D3-4 Tagore’a R. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Tamka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Tarczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B6 Targowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G1 Tatrzańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Teresińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Tłomackie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Tokarzewskiego . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Towarowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4-5 Trasa Łazienkowska . . .E-F6, G5 Trasa W-Z . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Traugutta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Trębacka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Trybunalska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Turecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Turystyczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Tuwima . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Twarda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4-5 Tyniecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Ujazdowskie al. . . . . . . . . . .E5-6 Urle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G11 Ursynowska . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E10 Walecznych . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Waliców . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B3-4 Wał Miedzyszyński . . .G4-5, H5 Wałowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Wandy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Warecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Warneńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Warszewickiego . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Waryńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D7 Waszyngtona . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Wawelska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7 Wąchocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Wersalska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5-6 Węglarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Węgrzyna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Widok . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Wiadukt Markiewicza . . . . . .D3 Wiejska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Wielicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E12 Wierzbickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Wierzbowa . . . . . . . . . .C2, D2-3 Wiktorska . . . . . .C10, D9-10, E9 Wilanowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4-5 Wilcza . . . . . . . . . . .C6, D5-6, E5 Willowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Winnicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Wioślarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Wiśniowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8-9 Witosa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10-11 Włoska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9-10 Wodna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Wolicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H9 Wolnej Wszechnicy . . . . . . A7-8 Wolność . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Wolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Wołoska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C12 Woronicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-E11 Wronia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3-4 Wrotkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Wrzesińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Wspólna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Wybrz. Kościuszkowskie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E2-3, F3 Wybrzeże Szczecińskie . . .E-F2 Wygodna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Wyzwolenia al. . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Zagórna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G5 Zajączkowska . . . . . . . . . . .E-F8 Zakopiańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Zakrzewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Zamenhofa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B2 Zamojskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G2 Zawrat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Ząbkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G1 Zbierska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Zdrojowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Zgoda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Zieleniecka al. . . . . . . . . . . .G2-3 Zielna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Zimorowicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Złota . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C4 Złotych Piasków . . . . . . . . . .G12 Zwierzyniecka . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Zwycięzców . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Żelazna . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3, B3-5 Żuławskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Żupnicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1 Żurawia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Żwirki i Wigury . . . . . . . . . .A8-11 Żytnia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Żywnego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Źródłowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2

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Over 750 students enrolled Over 50 different nationalities Outstanding IB and I/GCSE results Superb facilities in the heart of Warsaw High quality teaching provided by committed British, International and local staff A complete education from 2,5-18 years Following the English National Curriculum Wide range of extracurricular activities

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l. Limanowskiego 15 u 02-943 Warszawa T: +48 22 843 81 31 F: +48 22 842 81 65 E: admissions@thebritishschool.pl W: www.thebritishschool.pl 11-08-24 08:35

Żaryna Żaryna

Kulskiego Kulskiego

ChoCdhkod łyiaKłyam kieicwzaic BiaB iew Kaiem za ńień

THE MAYOR

ON THE PROWL

“If I see you in here again, I will break your cheekbone with a small hammer. And then I will kill you.”

– Cole Williams, 21 (2008)

Fashion Show. The place was packed full of celebrities and VIP’s from Poland’s fashion elite. Rodrigo De La Garza, who has made quite a splash on the fashion and party scene since his arriving in Warsaw, was showcasing his “Winter Warrior” collection, and the big draw tonight was top Canadian model Rick Genest AKA Zombie Boy. Seeing amazing models swarm around this guy (both these guys actually) had me contemplating a tattoo, just not on my face. Mayor Rule #14: Chicks dig tattoos. I lost count after the first 21 chicken dinners Ice awarded.

“W

inner, winner, chicken dinner!” It’s a signature line for blackjack dealers and MIT card counters, but my buddy Iceman declares it every time he sights a girl deemed to be the hottest in a club. He flew into town for a long weekend, and he hadn’t been here for a while, so I decided to show him some of the new hotspots of Warsaw. Winner, winner, chicken dinner!

Pure Sky We kicked off the night at the top of Warsaw in the Pure Sky Club. It has breathtaking views of the city and the staff are an attractive crew. Although technically a private club for members, they have enough sponsored events here, so you can sample the place for free a few times before you decide to join. Tonight was full of suits having business dinners, so we hung at the bar and checked out the city from above. I think Ice only awarded three chicken dinners, all to the staff.

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Soho Factory We then ventured across the river by limo and arrived in-style by hitting up the De La Garza Warsaw Insider: 01-31 January 2012

DeLite Club This is one of the newest clubs in Warsaw, and is gaining in popularity.

We bypassed the long line out front courtesy of my all access VIP card, because that’s how The Mayor rolls. It has a much younger crowd than Paparazzi or Platinium and it has the feel of a cool Kraków club, with a big exposed brick dance floor located deep underground.

The door control does an excellent job keeping the M/F ratio in our favor. Perhaps the best features of DeLite are their VIP and private rooms. We partied with Zombie Boy at the after-party, in the VIP room right behind the DJ booth, while he entertained the masses by cavorting from the booth to the dance floor and posing generously for photos with everyone. We then made our way to the Super-Duper Private VIP room located upstairs. This one is all decked out with TV’s, private bars, showers and stripper poles! In short, it’s like Snoop Dogg’s living room! While no peelers were on hand to entertain us, it remains hands down the best VIP room I have seen in Warsaw!

SOUL FOOD BUS After all this talk of Chicken Dinners, we were getting hungry. The Soul Food Bus is a game-changer for the late night eating community in Warsaw, with great burgers and quesadillas to eat on the spot or take-away. You can’t miss it: it’s a big red truck/bus with their Soul Food Logo painted on the side! We found them on the corner of Swiętokrzyska and Mazowiecka, not far from Paparazzi, but they do change locations – look for them on Facebook to see where they’ll be serving (search for the Soul Food Bus).