Warsaw Insider May 2013 #201

Eco Bazaar in Warsaw

Urban Markets page 20

Warsaw

Chatting Up The Chefs page 18

Moving?

page 24

May 05 price zł.10 INDEKS 334901 ISSN:1643-1723

(201)

2013

(VAT 8% included)

to our readers

MAY 2013

TOP 3 We’ve got food on the brain this month.

But which venues have caught the attention of our staff?

THE FOOD REVOLUTION

T

here are many ways one is able to judge the evolution of Warsaw: from the height of her skyline to the wealth of her shops. But the best benchmark of all can be found in her restaurants. When the Insider first started out it’s fair to say the local situation was dire – scary, even. At times, staring at a plate of congealed, canteen-style goo, you sometimes asked yourself if the chef had been blindfolded. But miracles happen. While a fair few places still pride themselves on waffling menus, big prices, silver service formality and rubbish food, a new crop of restaurants have emerged, lending the scene a fresh, new vigor.

2013 has already been a banner year for Warsaw, not least on account of its first Michelin star (step forward Atelier by Amaro). For this reason, we’ve dedicated this issue to food – and, more importantly, the people behind it. We’ve strayed across battle lines and into the kitchens of Warsaw’s top restaurants to see for ourselves the changes that have happened. But it’s not just the restaurants that have changed, but also the public. The way we eat has advanced beyond measure: scant in choice before, Warsaw now touts a spate of trendy urban markers to cater for its growing community of fooderati. With winter finally gone, we’ve visited the cream of the crop for the inside story on this emerging trend. Bon appetit.

And, as always, check out the latest hot city news on our Facebook (facebook. com/warsawinsider), and don’t forget to sign up for our end-of-week newsletter for news and views and little snips of gossip (newsletter@warsawinsider.pl).

Alex Webber awebber@valkea.com

on the cover Winter is dead! And the proof, if any was needed, can be found in the food markets that have sprung around town. We’ve visited the lot this issue, which is why you’ve got this lively little number on the cover.

(Illustration by Michał Miszkurka)

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WARSAW INSIDER | MAY 2013

Alex Webber Best meal in April? No question – the currywurst in Berlin’s sausage museum (yeah, there really is one) can’t be beaten. But going back to Feb, then the best meal of 2013 – no, my life – was down in Atelier by Amaro. Too many highlights to mention, but food aside, the personalized celebrity treatment from Amaro himself will not be forgotten.

Next trip, already booked!

Kevin DeMaria I recently went to Solec 44 for lunch and had a totally hunger bashing dish: a beautifully prepared fulllength eggplant sliced over homemade bread with a sunnyside-up egg. The combination of light, tasty and hearty all came together for me, and topped with a Pinta English Breakfast Ale, it gave me enough of a bounce for a walk by the Wisła.

David Ingham It’s got to be Brasserie Warszawska. The people behind Butchery & Wine have done it again with this addition to the capital’s culinary map: great tasting dishes and superb interiors. The fried oysters on a bed of fennel come particularly recommended, as do dishes of the day like roast pork belly – not to mention their modern interpretation of classic fish and chips.

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MONCLER RALPH LAUREN TOD’S SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

tel. +48 226221416, www.plactrzechkrzyzy.com

what’s inside

MAY 2013

18

LISTINGS

Culture

Restaurants

Cafes & Wine Bars

Nightlife

Shopping

07 Opener Planet + Doc Festival 07 Calendar Music, art and events around town 10 Museums

Listings and

Insider’s Pick 29 Insider’s Pick Rozbrat 20 48 Insider’s Pick

Superiore

Le Targ at Bufet Centralny

INfront

13 News in Brief

Local legends face closure: Sezam and

Chłodna 25; a mural makes headlines

and Warsaw stops to remember the

Ghetto. Plus the news...

16 Warsaw Foodie

The latest from the blog frontline

FEATURES

18 Urban Markets

Changing the way Warsaw eats 20 Bio Bazar

The organic trend takes off 22 Cooking School

Chef Joseph Seeletso opens his

kitchen doors

Editor-in-chief

Art Director

Editor

Publisher Advertising Manager Key Account Manager Key Account Manager Distribution Manager

24 Interview

Jacek Grochowina of Nolita

55 Insider’s Pick

La LUSH 59 Insider’s Pick

PaństwoMiasto

25 Interview

Agata Wojda of Opasły Tom PIW 26 Interview

Jakub Adamczyk of Winosfera

65 Insider’s Pick

Mostrami.pl

Children

24 Interview

Aleksander Baron of Solec 44

67 Insider’s Pick

Peek-a-boo

24 Butcher

Warsaw’s most famous butcher shop

Lifestyle

24 Chef Special

Robert Sowa serves it up!

80 Why Warsaw?

Phil Goss

Alex Webber awebber@valkea.com Kevin Demaria kdemaria@valkea.com David Ingham dingham@valkea.com Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com Agata Torańska atoranska@valkea.com Justyna Gagacka jgagacka@valkea.com Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com

Contributors: Gill Boelman-Burrows Paweł Bruczkowski Kit F. Chung Karolina Kalinowska Agnieszka Le Nart Michał Miszkurka Paula Rewald Ed Wight

73 Insider’s Pick

Pardon My French 76 Street Index 77 Classifieds 78 Warsaw Map

Subscription 12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland.

Orders can be placed through insider@ warsawinsider.pl

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VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies. All information ©2013 Warsaw Insider.

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WARSAW INSIDER | MAY 2013

Reviews: Planet + Doc Film Festival 7 / Night of the Museums 10

CULTURE EVENTS 7 / MUSEUMS 10

EVENTS THIS MONTH

Insider’s Pick

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RACE XXIII Constitution Run Central Warsaw This five kilometer run aims to celebrate the anniversary of the Polish constitution which was signed on May 3 1791. Beginning outside the Polish parliament it ends at the Chopin monument in one of the capitals most picturesque areas. The entry cost is zł. 60, but with only 5,000 starters places are limited.

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GRIDIRON From the top: The Act of Killing and The End of Time

10-19

ALL PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF ORGANIZERS OR ARTISTS

FESTIVAL

10th Planet + Doc Film Festival Kinoteka and various other locations

T

he “Doc review” festival is renowned for offering audiences the very best in documentary cinema from around the world. Celebrating their tenth year, the latest installment of this festival brings together the cream of the entrants from the Berlina, Locarno and Sundance film festivals, and as is customary, will also offer numerous retrospectives, discussion panels and meetings.

This year’s entrants, who will have the opportunity to win prizes set across eleven categories, include: The Act of Killing a film which details, through the accounts of the perpetrators, how more than one million alleged communists and ethnic Chinese were killed in 1960s Indonesia; The End of Time, a film from visionary film-maker Peter Mettler, which explores our perception of time; Pussy Riot: A Punk Prayer, which takes a no-holds barred look into the case of the Pussy Riot protests in Russia, and A Liar’s Autobiography: The Untrue Story of Monty Python’s Graham Chapman, an animated film about the life of the late comedy hero Graham Chapman.

Screenings take place at Kinoteka and Kino Luna. For more information including schedule visit: planetedocff.pl

Warsaw Eagles vs Kozły Pozńan Stadion Polonia The capital’s top gridiron team are hoping for better luck with the weather this month after a raft of cancellations in April. But if the games do go ahead expect big guys doing big tackles with half-time shows and cheerleaders included. Tickets from zł. 60, available from eventim.pl

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FESTIVAL Free Form Festival 2013 Soho Factory, ul. Mińska 25 Now in its ninth year the Free Form Festival is Warsaw’s premier weekend event for all things electronic. This year’s lineup includes Bristol’s trip hop pioneer Tricky, The Toxic Avenger, a.k.a.

Simon Delacroix, an electro

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CULTURE 9

CONCERT Chris de Burgh Sala Kongresowa, Pl. Defilad 1 Housewives favorite and legendary crooner Chris De Burgh returns to the capital! Born in Argentina to a British diplomat father and Irish mother, De Burgh grew up in a 12th Century castle in County Wexford. He embarked on a music career in 1974 and has since gone on to rack up millions of album sales on the back of hits like Lady in Red and Don’t Pay the Ferryman.

Tickets from zł. 143, available from eventim.pl

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CONCERT Michael Bolton Sala Kongresowa, Pl. Defilad 1 Surprising as it may seem, Michael Bolton started his music career in the rock band Blackjack alongside long-time Kiss guitarist Bruce Kulick. But after ditching his rock roots Bolton’s solo career went in to overdrive with millions of album sales in the 1980s and 1990s thanks to hits like How Am I Supposed to Live Without You and Time, Love and Tenderness.

Tickets from zł. 110, available from eventim.pl

creation shows no sign of slowing down as it continues to thrill audiences across the globe.

Based around traditional Irish dancing, the show inspired a whole new generation to take up the art. Flatley himself is a world record holder after entering the Guinness Book of Records for having “the fastest feet in the world”. Tickets from zł. 120, available from ticketpro.pl

released his first single My Old School in 2009. Known for his electronic mixes he is also a renowned producer, reinterpreting tracks from the likes of The XX, Ewan Pearson and Al Usher.

In 2012, he released his debut album titled Fin. Tickets from zł.

30, available from ticketpro.pl

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CONCERT

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CONCERT The XX Torwar, ul. Łazienkowska 6 The XX burst onto the music scene with their widely acclaimed debut album XX, released in 2009. The record, which contained the hits Crystalised and Islands, claimed the coveted Mercury Music Prize, as well as being voted number one in The Guardian’s list of the year’s best albums. The group’s second studio release Coexist came out in November last year and helped cement their place as one of the most original and talented groups on today’s music scene. Tickets from zł. 120, available from ticketpro.pl

Sóley Basen, ul.Konopnickiej 6.

Hailing from Iceland, Sóley is a singer and pianist who was formerly the lead singer of indie band Seabear. Her debut solo album We Sink launched her into the mainstream, and the single Pretty Face has been viewed more than 11 million times on YouTube so far. Tickets from zł. 49, available from ticketpro.pl

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Feast of the Wisła (Swieto Wisły) Saska Kępa Organized by the city’s Office of Sports and Recreation this two-day event aims to promote all forms of water-based activity on the capital’s main water way: the Wisła. As well as the opportunity to try out various forms of water transport, there will also be concerts, food, exhibitions and beach volleyball. For more information: swietowisly.pl

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CONCERT John Talabot 1500 M2, ul. Solec 15 A native of Spain, John Talabot

WARSAW INSIDER | MAY 2013

CONCERT Mudhoney Klub Stodola, ul. Batorego 10 Grunge godfather’s Mudhoney were label mates of fellow Seattle rockers Nirvana during the heyday of the genres most famous label Sub Pop. The band’s 1988 single Touch Me I’m Sick is regarded as a classic of the grunge scene and was voted number 99 in the NME’s greatest singles of all time. The band are currently promoting their ninth studio album, Vanishing Point, which was released earlier this year.

Tickets from zł. 90, available from ticketpro.pl

YARD SALE

CONCERT

Lord of the Dance Torwar, ul. Łazienkowska 6 Michael Flatley’s world famous

FESTIVAL

25

19 onwards

SHOW

19-20

Chopin in Łazienki Łazienki Park Nothing signals the start of the sunny weather better than these free open air concerts that take place every Sunday. Featuring some of the most talented pianists around, each gives their own unique interpretation of Chopin’s best known works.

For more information: lazienki-krolewskie.pl

9th Mustache Yard Sale Palace of Culture, Pl. Defilad 1 This bi-annual event is famous for unearthing the most talented young designers in Warsaw. With a variety of stalls including the latest fashions and design products this is a must for those who like to keep their finger on the next big trends.

ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF ARTISTS OR ORGANIZERS

thrash producer hailing from Paris, and American rapper Azealia Banks, among many others. If an all-night party is your kind of thing then this is not to be missed. Tickets from zł.

100, available from eventim.pl

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CONCERT I Love Italia Torwar, ul. Łazienkowska 6 Warsaw’s Italian community should be out in force for this concert which brings together talented musicians from the country for the second year running. With performances from Toto Cutugno, who is best known for his worldwide hit song L’Italiano, and multi-million selling group Ricchi e Poveri, this show presents some of the best known Italian performers in the world. Tickets from zł. 70, available from ticketpro.pl

the early 1960s and songs like With a Little Help From My Friends and Up Where We Belong have helped make his distinctive rasping voice well known throughout the world. Tickets from zł. 280, available from eventim.pl

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CONCERT King Diamond Hala Koło Danish heavy metal singer King Diamond, who is known as the “King of Horror Music”, was one of the pioneers of 80s satanic metal. Known for his controversial on stage performances, if you’ve never heard of him, then the chances are this won’t be your thing. For the converted, however, his first Polish show in six years is not-to-be-missed. Tickets from zł.

120, available from ticketpro.pl

28

CONCERT Joe Cocker Sala Kongresowa, Pl. Defilad 1 Sheffield’s finest blues and soul singer returns to Warsaw once more. The 68 year old has been a fixture on the music scene since

MOVIES OPENING THIS MONTH 9

The Great Gatsby 3D Drama. Dir. Baz Luhrmann, with Leonardo DiCaprio and Toby Maguire

Iron Man 3 Action/Sci-fi. Dir. Shane Black, with Robert Downey, Jr., and Gwyneth Paltrow

24 Epic (Tajemnica zielonego królestwa) Animation/Fantasy. Dir. Chris Wedge, with Colin Farrell and Amanda Seyfried

10 I’m so excited (Przelotni kochankowie) Comedy. Dir. Pedro Almodóvar, with Javier Camara and Cecilia Roth

The Fast and the Furious 6 Action/Thriller. Dir. Justin Lin, with Vin Diesel and Paul Walker

Stoker Drama/Thriller. Dir. Chan-Wook Park, with Mia Wasikowska and Nicole Kidman

The Other Side of Sleep (Po drugiej stronie snu) Drama/Thriller. Dir. Rebecca Daly, with Antonia Campbell-Hughes and Sam Keeley

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28 Hotel Rooms (28 Pokoi Hotelowych) Drama. Dir. Matt Ross, with Chris Massina and Marin Ireland

Star Trek Into Darkness Sci-fi. Dir. J. J. Abrams, with Benedict Cumberbatch and Simon Pegg

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CULTURE MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. 22 596 4100, www. kopernik.org.pl. If you thought the Chopin Museum was space age then just wait till you visit this place. Interactive, witty and surprising, Copernicus allows visitors to experience an earthquake, blast recyclable objects into space and become a mystery cracking detective.

CSW ul. Jazdów 2, www.csw.art.pl.

Situated in a baroque-style castle the center hosts artists from all over the world (Annie Leibovitz, Yoko Ono, Wilhelm Sasnal, Andy Warhol). The on-site bookshop is of particular interest for artists and intellectuals. Ongoing until June 9: Mikołaj Smoczyński.

What Outsiders Can Tell Us About Reality. A retrospective on the late artist who died back in 2009. It explores his work from the 1980s and 1990s and highlights his multifaceted creativity.

Dom Spotkań z Historią ul. Karowa 20, www.dsh.waw. pl. The History Meeting House wins points for frequently excellent exhibitions that cover topics such as ‘rebuilding Warsaw’ and ‘Socialist Realist architecture.’ It won’t take longer than twenty minutes to peruse whatever exhibition is on, but it’s still a very worthwhile diversion. Ongoing until May 5: Henry N. Cobb’s photographs of Poland in postwar ruin. Ongoing until May 16: ‘How the Jewish Warsaw Ghetto was Created’ features photos from 1940.

Insider’s Pick

Night of Museums at the Zachęta Night of Museums May 18-19, 19:00-9:00

M

ay sees the tenth edition of the Night of the Museums: over 200 institutions, including 47 galleries and museums, will open throughout the night enabling anyone in Warsaw to venture inside free of charge. While most events had yet to be announced at press time, a couple of the more quirky can be found at Fotoplastikon (where unusual 3D photographs – including some racy nudes – of “Warsaw 100 years ago” will be on show), and Dom Kultury (who have prepared a remarkable artistic journey into the world of symbols and myths, as well as a live performance from the group Babadag). Although the exhibits on show are the main draw, do also expect street parties and a great atmosphere of togetherness forged from standing in line – with over 200,000 people set to turn out for the event, do except the odd queue. For more information: noc-muzeow.pl

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WARSAW INSIDER | MAY 2013

Jewish Historical Institute ul. Tłomackie 3. Officially opened in1947 the Jewish Historical Institute was created as an archive of Jewish culture in Warsaw. It contains art work, historical artifacts and important documents from the city’s rich Jewish past. Ongoing until November 30: Polish Art and the Holocaust. This exhibition presents the work of artists who in different ways have managed to evoke the painful memories of the Holocaust.

Historical Museum of Warsaw Rynek Starego Miasta 28/42, www.mhw.pl. The granddaddy of Warsaw museums is over the worst of a lengthy refit and gradually reopening bit by bit. The ground floor cinema is a must – playing a 20 minute film titled We Will Remember, it details the powerful story behind the destruction of Warsaw.

The Fryderyk Chopin Museum in Warsaw Ostrogski Palace, ul. Okólnik 1, www.chopin.museum.pl.

Recognized as one of the most hi-tech museums in Europe, the world even, computer chip tickets allow visitors the chance to personalize the museum experience as never before. Over 5,000 objects are present, among them Chopin’s pocket watch, last piano, a lock of hair and even his death mask.

Królikarnia ul. Puławska 113A, www. krolikarnia.mnw.art.pl. Fine art galore inside an elegant suburban palace. The young curator has decided to show some forgotten treasures from the rich archives of the National Museum. The gallery also hosts more contemporary works, such as those by Nicolas Grospierre and Agnieszka Polska.

Legia Museum ul. Łazienkowska 6, www.legia. com. Aside from silverware

affirming Legia’s status, find a vast collection of shirts, pennants and paintings (even part of an old floodlight). Pride of place goes to Legia’s favorite son, 80’s super star Kazimierz Deyna.

Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw ul. Pańska 3, www.artmuseum. pl. The very first museum of modern art in Warsaw, still fighting for a proper location, bravely manages to provide visitors with a display of contemporary art, including works of Alina Sapocznikow, Zbigniew Libera, Paweł Althamer, Magdalena Abakanowicz, Miroslaw Bałka, Katarzyna Kozyra and Artur Żmijewski. From May 14: In the Heart of the Country. The first comprehensive presentation of the museum’s international collection of art.

National Museum Al. Jerozolimskie 3, www.mnw. art.pl. Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars. Ongoing until May 12: Cztery Razy ŚWIAT. A photo exhibition detailing selected work from the Polish weekly magazine Świat between the years 1951-1969.

The Neon Museum ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), www.neonmuzeum.org. A complete departure from the stuff museums in Poland are famed for, this long awaited project brings together the neon lights that once illuminated the city. Among the collection are 35 landmark signs, many of which date from the 60s and 70s.

Palmiry National Memorial Museum Palmiry, www.palmiry.mhw. pl. An excellent multimedia exhibition set next to a cemetery holding the graves of 1,700 Poles executed in the first years of Nazi occupation. The museum tells

their forgotten story, with archival video footage complimented by exhumed exhibits and plenty of background info dealing with the siege and subsequent occupation of Warsaw.

Pawiak ul. Dzielna 24/26. What was once a Tsarist prison assumed a doubly sinister function under the Nazis. Some 100,000 Polish political prisoners were held here, 37,000 of which were executed on-site. Split in two sections, cells are found on one side, while on the other the full story of the invasion and occupation.

Poster Museum in Wilanów ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 10/16, www.postermuseum.pl.

With a collection that touches the 55,000 mark, here’s the biggest poster museum in the world –

and also the original. Art spans the period from 1892 till 2002, and while the majority is Polish orientated works on display also include those by Dali and Warhol.

Ongoing until May 12: Great Theatre of the World. Spanning the period from 1945-2012 the posters on display give an insight in to the changing face of theatre promotion in the year’s after WWII. Ongoing until May 12: From Aida to the Bat. The first ever exhibition of opera posters from home and abroad! The exhibition spans the years from 1945 to 2012.

Museum of Technology Palace of Culture, pl. Defilad 1, www.muzeum-techniki.waw.pl.

The very opposite of the newfangled Copernicus Centre, here’s a place that embraces the old way of doing things. On show an eccentric – occasionally ludicrous – collection of junk that ranges

from 8-bit computers to a German ‘Enigma’ machine.

Warsaw Uprising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, www.1944.pl.

Exhibits range from a full size replica of a Liberator plane, to a sewer beneath the cinema screen and a slice of bread preserved from 1944. And don’t miss the ‘City of Ruins’, a five minute 3D film which takes you on an aerial journey over devastated Warsaw.

Outside, check the Nazi bunker behind the office, the panoramic view tower and the original statue of Prince Poniatowski – now a ripped metal hulk.

Tadeusz Kantor, Alina Szapocznikow, Katarzyna Kozyra and Zbigniew Libera. Ongoing until May 19: The Splendor of Textiles.

This exhibition presents artistic textiles in the wider context of contemporary art. Ongoing until June 2: Death and the Maiden.

A retrospective of artist Aneta Grzeszykowska’s work including films, photographs and paintings.

Zachęta National Art Gallery Pl. Małachowskiego 3, www. zacheta.art.pl. Featuring in the collection are works by Toulouse-Lautrec, Cezanne, Ernst and Picasso, as well as luminaries of the Polish art scene such as

NEED TO KNOW Museum hours (and prices) change way too frequently for our liking, so check indiviudal websites for the latest story.

Note that many of these addresses close one day per week (usually Monday or Tuesday), and that an equal amount hold ‘visitor’ days once a week when admission prices are waived.

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INFRONT CITY 13 / FOOD 16 / INTERNATIONAL 14 / LOCAL INTEREST 14 / NEWS 14 / URBAN ART 14

CITY

All Shopped Out

PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

Progress waits for no man, and that’s certainly the case for one of Warsaw’s more iconic PRL relics: the legendary Sezam shopping center on Marszałkowska. Opened in 1969, it formed one of the main components of the Eastern Wall (Ściana Wschodnia) architectural project which saw the “modernization” of the land opposite the Palace of Culture: all the way from ul. Świętokrzyska down to the Rotunda. Designed by famed architects Zbigniew Karpiński and Andrzej Sierakowski, Sezam was at the time seen as the benchmark for top quality shopping in communist era Poland – its first day of trade drew 100,000 curiosity seekers. In 1992, Poland’s first McDonald’s opened in an ugly glass extension, setting a world record for transactions (13,304) that’s yet to be topped.

But Sezam’s once gleaming facade has definitely seen better days, and while other parts of the street have moved with the times the once great department store is now more a window to the past than a must-go-to shop. Sitting as it does on some of the most lucrative land in the capital time has run out for this three floor behemoth, with local authorities granting permission for the destruction of this dinosaur. Its replacement will be Nowy Sezam, a mix-use retail and office project whose lower floors will provide direct access to the Świętokrzyska Metro station: the point at which Warsaw’s two underground lines will meet. (DI)

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INFRONT

BRIEFING ED WIGHT’S NEWS BITES IN THE MOO-D FOR LOVE

Ghetto Remembered

A series of high profile events took place last month to commemorate the 70th anniversary of the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising.

Polish President Bronisław Komorowski spoke at a ceremony attended by a host of world figures, among them Israeli representatives and a number of Holocaust survivors. The rebellion was quelled after a month, prompting Jurgen Stroop to report to Hitler: “The Warsaw Ghetto has ceased to exist”.

GEORGE WHO-NEY? A George Clooney lookalike hired for a series of TV ads in Małapolska was so bad viewers hadn’t a clue who he was supposed to be. Brit Parviz Ghodsi played the Hollywood star for the three short ads aimed at increasing foreign investment in the region.

But locals who saw the spots were left unimpressed. “I didn’t get them because I had no idea he was supposed to be George Clooney,” said one viewer, “he looks like some bloke they pulled in off the street.”

A-CHOO-DUNNIT URBAN ART

LOCAL INTEREST

A gray patch of Muranów has been transformed courtesy of a wacky art collective operating under the name Etam Cru. Commissioned by real estate firm Volumetric, the Łódź based group have enlivened the wall on Dzielna 72 with a bold mural featuring a monkey perched on the back of a beardy dude.

It’s not the first time this lot have dazzled Warsaw, with an earlier example of their surreal work found at the Och Teatr on Grójecka 65.

Another Warsaw bar looks condemned to the great brewery in the sky after it was announced that Chłodna 25 is due to close. Owner Grzegorz Lewandowski told TVN Warszawa that the bar was ‘doomed’, after ongoing talks with moaning local residents broke down.

Regarded as Warsaw’s original cult, hipster bar, Chłodna have faced an uphill battle in recent years to keep residents and authorities onside. Enjoy it while you can, June looks their last month alive.

Off The Wall

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WARSAW INSIDER | MAY 2013

End of an Era

A fugitive blew it when he tried hiding in a secret passage in his home – and then sneezed, leading cops right to him. The 49-year-old on the run for dodging child maintenance payments had dug a six feet deep hole under a table in his hall in Pruszkow. He then covered it with a panel he’d crafted to match the rest of the wooden floor and hid inside whenever police came looking for him. But he was caught when officers searching the apparently empty home heard a stifled sneeze.

“Perhaps if he’d dusted more often he’d still be on the run,” said one.

BOTTOM PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA, TOP PHOTOGRAPH COURTEST OF MHPJ

INTERNATIONAL

A pair of love struck students who stole a life-sized model cow to impress a girl were arrested after she udderly rejected their gesture and reported them to the police. The would-be rustlers pinched the six-foot model used to advertise chocolate from outside a local shop in Leszno after hearing the girl tell classmates she liked cows. They then left it outside her home with a note declaring their love. But when the object of their desires found it in the morning she was furious. “They must be crazy if they think a plastic cow would win me over,” she said after calling the cops.

INFRONT

FOODIE NEWS A collaboration between two of Warsaw’s best known restaurant blogs (restaurantica.pl and froblog.pl), Warsaw Foodie has emerged as the No. 1 site for local food related stories. Featuring all the latest from the foodie frontline, the bilingual Warsaw Foodie promises the hottest news on what’s trending on the restaurant radar. For more info, check: www.warsawfoodie.pl/en Cheese plate at Alewino.pl

TALK OF THE TOWN

New & Notable

Five of the Best: Cheese La Fromagerie Chronologically the No. 1 place in Warsaw for cheese. Located near to Mielżyński Wine Bar, La Fromagerie is both a shop and a small bistro at the same time.

Opasły Tom PIW Agata Wojda’s ul. Foksal bistro has a tasting and a la carte menu which almost always contains Polish farm chesses produced by small manufacturers.

The House of Cheese Another place fully dedicated to cheese, find House of Cheese in Stara Papiernia and also in Ursynów – in both you can choose from several options and eat on-site.

Brasserie Warszawska Daniel Pawelek’s second Warsaw restaurant has a cheese selection including Comte and Camembert and rennet ‘Colonel’ Livarot and a knowledgeable staff to guide you through them.

Musician Czesław Mozil launched his own restaurant, Pausa Włoska (facebook.com/pausatrattoria), at the start of April. Located on ul. Ząbkowska, the venue offers simple Italian cuisine, with the heart provided by a wood-burning pizza oven. Decorated with raw brick and giant bulbs, it’s already proving a hit – reservations are recommended.

CLOSED!

Iranian eatery Kuchnia Perska i Naleśnikarnia closed their ul. Sienna operation in March, though not all the news is bad. Plans to open a new location have been raised, and for the time being find them making guest appearances in eateries across town. For more, check their Facebook.

Alewino.pl This small Mokotowska wine bar offers cheese plates with several interesting additions, that have, over time, included marinated peaches in syrup, birch, and walnut cookies with sprinkles.

New Arrival: Stółdzielnia Housed in a pavilion, find Mokotów-based Stółdzielnia at the intersection of Kazimierzowska and Wiktorska. Influenced by Italian cuisine, the menu is based around a foundation of fresh produce imported from solid sources in Italy and beyond. Dishes include a number of pizzas, as well as, among others, octopus carpaccio, shrimp with mango sauce and vongole. Plans for a garden and an outdoor play area for children should materialize, in the meantime enjoy the concept of communal dining on a large table that seats more than twenty people. ul. Kazimierzowska 22, tel. 22 845 00 67. Open Mon-Sun 13:00-22:00.

Cuisine: Mediterranean. Av price: zł. 20-40. Atmosphere: Casual

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BURGER NEWS

After months leading a mobile, transient existence, Bobby Burger have laid anchor with a permanent home on ul. Żurawia 32/34. But their burger truck’s not gone yet either, with recent sightings including ul. Domaniewska.

URBAN MARKETS

EMERGING MARKETS Nothing says Warsaw Spring more than the city’s

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

food markets. And with several new ones to visit, this year promises to be the most fruitful of them all. BY KAROLINA KALINOWSKA & AGNIESZKA LENART

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WARSAW INSIDER | MAY 2013

O

ne of Warsaw’s most charming urban traditions is the bazarek: the open-air market. Stalls upon stalls of fresh fruits and vegetables in all colors of the rainbow make them a feast for the eyes with all those kilos of strange-looking Gargamel tomatoes, crunchy green peppers, string beans, jewel-toned beetroots, clementines and delicate pears. In the days of generic, not to say genetically modified produce, they’re a ray of hope in a modern time.

Hala Koszyki

ul. Koszykowa 63. Open Tue-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat 9:0020:00; Sun 9:00-17:00.

For those who long – as I do – for the charm of London’s Borough Market, there’s a new health market installed in what’s left of the landmark Hala Koszyki marketplace.

While the rest of the site is undergoing construction, this charming Gothic pile of bricks hosts one of the quaintest little bazaars I’ve ever seen. With a quality meat shop on the lower floor, an old-school espresso bar to the right, fish stall and fruit/vegetable stand in the back garden (where you can also sit in the sunshine enjoying a pot of coffee and croissant courtesy of those who made Pl. Zbawiciela’s Charlotte famous). Upstairs there’s a selection of cold cuts, kielbasas, cakes, Mediterranean treats, wines straight from Sicily and a funky little juice bar in the middle that concocts energizing blends like orange, mint and spinach (with a shot of green tea). Five minutes in this place was enough to turn a terrible day at the office upside down. It’s absolutely amazing how swiftly Warsaw is changing: and, best of all, using tradition to make the most of its fine produce and architectural treasures.

Nowy Targ in Nowy Teatr

ul. Madalińskiego 10/16. Open Sat 9:00-15:00.

This new initiative set up by Nowy Teatr, a theatre based in Warsaw, is definitely a response to Warsaw’s growing demand for healthy food and traditional flavors. “Do you not miss those lost childhood flavors of apples, so different from those found at the supermarket?” teases their website. Every Saturday since the beginning of April Nowy Targ has been gathering local, small-scale producers, some organically certified, in a huge industrial building in the middle of Mokotów (lending the market a bit of an emptied appearance). However, this market is much more than just a place to buy fresh produce directly from the person who made it. The idea behind it was to integrate the community of Mokotów by providing a space for sharing the love for food, participating in workshops, cooking demonstrations and listening to live music – even the children have entertainment planned. Nowy Targ offers a plethora of things: from regional products such as oscypek and smoked meats to ready-to-eat fare (coffee, cakes, roasted sausages, green smoothie concoctions) to candles made from organic soy wax. What draws my attention instantly is the smell emanating from the large stand of fresh bread. Some are baked “the traditional way, on a leaf of horseradish”, I am told, others made on sourdough. I instantly buy a huge loaf of the former and a thick slice of it too, with a generous amount of smalec (a Polish variation on lard, but better) and pickle, and fall in love with traditional Polish food all over again.

Le Targ

ul. Królowej Aldony 5 and various locations. Open Thu 11:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-18:00 (but check for updates).

“Le Targ” can be read two ways – as le targ, a language mashing meaning “the market” or letarg, the Polish word for “lethargy”, undoubtedly alluding to the majority of people’s state when it comes to food and its quality. This is what Le Targ aims to change by providing its clients with slow food provided by local producers. Find here a rather random array of products: stands display traditional meats, goat’s cheeses, unconventional preserves (also found at Nowy Targ), Greek products, vegan ingredients… it all still seems a bit like a work in progress. The initiative is noble, however, and the fact they remember about Warsaw’s different neighborhoods is a plus (apart from Saska Kępa they sometimes open in Solec 44 or Bufet Centralny). I hope with time it will seem more like one market than a few random separate stands and that, spring being here, Le Targ will explode with fresh organic fruits and vegetables and not just processed products. Beware of two things: first, don’t let the appeal of delicious, wild fish from Poland’s lakes distract you. Indeed, some are but others are just pretending to be wild-caught – upon further enquiry it turned out some of the fish are from farms. Second, wherever Le Targ happens to be located, it always draws mostly the hipster crowd, the “early adopters” – a fact which shamefully demonstrates how unfamiliar the general public still is about the goodness of slow food eating.

Targ Śniadaniowy

al. Wojska Polskiego. Open Sat 8:00-14:00.

Set to start on April 27th, and still only hotly talked about as the Insider went to press, this most recent addition to Warsaw’s map of produce markets caters to the Żoliborz crowd, so as not to make that part of Warsaw feel left out.

The idea is a bit different as it is out in the open air, on the grass, so good weather is a must, and it is based around the first meal of the day. Part healthy food market, part breakfast picnic, part chance to get your two wheeler fixed but above all, an idyllic way to spend a Saturday morning in a beautiful part of town. It will most definitely be drawing not only those native to Żoliborz.

Opposite from top, carnival of color at Koszyki; something for the sausage lover at Nowy Targ. Above, a young fan of smoked meats at Le Targ, Bufet Centralny. facebook.com/warsawinsider

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MARKETS BIO BAZAR

IN LOVE WITH ORGANIC

Once a bastion of unhealthy eating, Warsaw has found an appetite for natural food.

Leading the trend is BioBazar, Warsaw’s first truly organic market.

BY KAROLINA KALINOWSKA

Joanka

Sells apples and apple products, is a member of Greenpeace and an activist for the Green Party of Poland.

WI: Tell us a little about your stand and how it all began.

J: It started in November of 2012 when my uncle, who has an organic apple orchard near Warsaw, suddenly came to our house and announced that he had seven tons of Golden Delicious apples! He went on, saying he had nowhere to sell them and they’d freeze if he didn’t get rid of them.

To which I said, “Oh dear… we must save these apples!”

So my friend then suggested buying the first ton and

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doing something, processing them somehow. And that’s what we did: we experimented, and within a few months we had seven different products on offer – non-alcoholic apple punch, pickled apples, apple preserves with no added sugar, apple jams and apple cream, apple juice and caramelized apples with onions. In the meantime, the idea to sell them at BioBazar cropped up and so here we are, every Saturday since December. We have loyal customers, who come and talk to us about their childhood tastes, comment and rate our products, which is great. Contact with people and the knowledge that we are offering people healthy food – organic, not sprayed with pesticides and with incredible flavors – gives us an enormous satisfaction. It’s an incredible adventure.

You also sell fresh apples…

Yes we do, from befriended orchard owners. We also try to buy and promote old varieties. In Poland there are about 500 different kinds of apples! This is an astonishing bounty.

Unfortunately, the market selects apples, usually the ones that can be grown the easiest. But old varieties can still be found, at places like BioBazar, and I always tell my clients to search for them because of their incredible flavors.

How do you see the future of organic produce in Warsaw?

I think people’s consciousness is growing. People can see that the food sold in supermarkets is of a worse quality than what they ate when they were children. I see a future, definitely, because organic produce is food that benefits our health. If someone wants to be healthy, he/she must eat healthily.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

T

he BioBazar is many things at once – a huge market selling organic products (most being certified as such), a place to learn more about organic eating, a chance to talk to the sellers about their products and how they are made and a place to discover regional foods and traditional recipes. It prides itself in being the first such initiative in Poland on such a scale and, as such, draws heavy crowds of food-lovers looking for “real” food. In this market, which takes over the former Norblin factory every Saturday morning, you’ll find everything from fresh fruits and vegetables to organic meats, hams, fish and dairy produce, not to mention eggs, coffee, tea, juices and even cosmetic products and ecofriendly toys – put simply, anything one might require to lead an ecofriendly and healthy lifestyle. The Insider stopped by on the first sunny Saturday of Spring to talk to a few of the sellers about their products, and why they do what they do.

Marek

Sells fresh vegetables and fruit, untouched by chemicals, and passes on his knowledge to students WI: How long have you been doing what you do?

M: I have been involved and interested in the organic movement for quite sometime, since the 80s. Once I started my own farm, there were ups and downs over the years, as always. Once we planted tomatoes, they were there one day and gone the next because the pests ate them – the potatoes hadn’t grown enough yet.

With all these pests, how is the farming kept organic?

We use products that are approved and we also make our own solutions from plants. I keep up-to-date with what’s new in organic farming too. Of course, experience plays an important role as well, as each year is different. One year we had turkeys collecting all the caterpillars off the cabbage: it worked so well that it looked like we had trained them! If I used pesticides, might I add, I would be spending an extra zł. 30,000 on the chemicals alone.

What will you be selling in May and June?

In May we usually have strawberries but I’m not so sure about this year… it depends if nature catches up with the season. Of course, there will be staples like radishes and salad – all of the vegetables first harvested from the field since we don’t grow under foil or in greenhouses.

Does such farming have a future?

Yes, Warsaw is a good place to sell organic food because

it is populous. We get quite a lot of foreigners coming here to buy it. It will definitely be a growing market because people do want this healthier food. We also get many clients with special dietary needs. People are starting to search for these healthier alternatives.

Zygmunt

Is part of the “great-grandfather’s” “Jasiołka” smokehouse, selling organic Galician hams, sausages and other smoked meat products, produced in southern Poland.

WI: Why organic produce?

Z: Our boss is a fan of healthy, organic produce – it’s as simple as that! He wants it to be as healthy as possible.

How do you ensure your meat products are organic?

“Jasiołka” has agreements signed with farmers who provide it with meat that we then smoke. Their farms constantly have quality controls. The methods of production are traditional: we smoke on alder, beech or fruit tree wood. It’s a small-scale production – we only employ about 20 people.

How do you see the growth of the organic produce market?

Well it is expensive, and people do buy it, but in smaller amounts. But so far, so good.

BioBazar ul. Żelazna 51/56 (old Norblin factory). Open Sat 8:00-16:00.

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21

COOKING SCHOOL

BEHIND KITCHEN DOORS

T

he cult of the chef has long been celebrated out west; in Poland, however, it’s a phenomena that remains in its infancy. That’s for good reason – decades of communism left the country with a legacy of poor food served by bad chefs. It’s no surprise, therefore, that most chefs preferred to keep themselves hidden in their kitchen: no chance of revenge attacks from dissatisfied customers.

But times have changed. A new crop of chefs have emerged, every bit as flamboyant as their counterparts in the west. Warsaw, all of a sudden, has been reborn as Foodie City. Yet for all these new wave chefs, few will be more familiar than the beaming face of Joseph Seeletso.

Born in Botswana, and with royal connections to boot, he fills regular slots on channels like TVN and TVP2. For ex-pats though, he’s better known as the man who reinvented the courtyard of Duchnicka 3. Over the space of three years, his restaurant / wine bar assumed a prominence reserved for the cream-of-the-crop. But, since the start of the year, Joseph has spread his wings and flown – granted, not very

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far. Now operating a culinary studio round the corner from his old venture, I toddled by to act as a fly-on-the-wall.

From the outside, his new domain looks dowdy and drab. But up the stairs, a new world opens. I’ve arrived slightly late (the fault of a last sneaky smoke), to find Chef Seeletso conducting introductions. Today’s group is a gaggle of Norwegians, their number I’d estimate to be 15 (like a herd of cats they refuse to stand still making a headcount impossible). “I want you to feel at home here,” he booms in a thick, engaging accent, “Joseph’s home.”

And that in itself is the first feather in the cap. In spite of its outside appearance, this isn’t some anonymous cookery institute. The colors are warm; cookbooks are piled below the counters; there’s a chess set, and a large photo of the wilds of Botswana spanning one wall. State-of-the-art equipment glints and glimmers, almost outdoing Joseph’s own gleaming smile.

Joseph, I learn, oversees numerous events – culinary shows, outdoor events, and even trips to his native country.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY PAWEŁ BRUCZKOWSKI

Chef Joseph Seeletso has been at the forefront of Warsaw’s culinary rise. Now, you too can learn the tricks of the trade from the master himself. BY ALEX WEBBER

Today though is a culinary workshop, and he talks us through the menu in store: “I cooked this dessert for King Gustav of Sweden – he loved it!” It’s a comment that draws coos of admiration from the gathered Scandinavians.

Then, without further ado, it’s a case of on with the aprons and let battle commence. “I’m not doing Hell’s Kitchen today, but I do need some help,” announces Joseph, before splitting people off and assigning them tasks. The atmosphere is casual with the Chef constantly engaging in banter and talk. The Norwegians, on their first visit to Poland, are eager to learn about the culinary stock of their new European neighbor. “The ingredients are here in Poland,” Joseph tells them, “it’s a very organic country, the only problems are if you want something exotic – then you’re reliant on Germany.”

The evening is not just about food, either. Wine pairings play an important part, and it’s while teaching the throng about his signature tartar that Joseph recommends a nice Chardonnay. “For this, I like something fruitier,” he says breaking out a Californian wine. “This one’s got a tropical nose, a bit of coconut.” The Norwegians nod studiously, snapping and tapping on their iPhone contraptions.

Preparation of the starters goes seamlessly, and next it’s the turn of the Chateaubriand. Beef, clearly, is close to Joseph’s heart. “What do I eat in Botswana? Beef! We’ve got some of the best in the world. One day, we’ll all go together!”

I note a couple of shirkers have sloped off into a corner with a bottle of wine (as a non-cook myself I feel an instant connection). But shirking isn’t an option. “I need ABS,” declares Joseph, “Able bodied seamen.” In spite of his jovial style and laidback persona, there’s a presence about the Chef that demands respect – soon, everyone is involved, whether it’s smashing garlic to smithereens or on more dainty duties. There’s praise in the right places, and prompts in others: “This needs to be chopped more finely, be a star, go for it!” It’s not just a cookery course, it’s a motivational lecture! “Is this better Chef,” asks one of the Norwegians. Joseph grins backs, “luvvly jubbly.”

It’s become pure kitchen porn: over the chopping and the clatter, one of the group breaks into song, a result I suspect is linked to the wine. “Use your hands more,” Joseph instructs over the cacophony, “be in touch with your food.” There’s practical tips as well, fundamental lessons that remain long after you leave. Then, with the legwork done, Joseph gathers round his flock to finesse and fine tune: “This needs one more minute, that’s where the flavor is.” And with that, it’s time to taste the results. The Norwegians retreat to their dining area to kick-off with cappuccino soup scented with chili, allowing me the chance of a chinwag with Chef. “My cooking is classic, because I’m classically trained. But it is with a twist – let’s say a cultural twist. I’m brave enough to play around with flavors but the recipes remain simple.”

“I’ll usually teach my signature dishes,” he adds, “I’ll send the group a choice beforehand and then they’ll come back with feedback or requests. It’s important to do this in advance as everything we use is fresh – the produce we cook is bought the same day.”

And what do people get from it all? “Look around, we have an intimacy here. No one disturbs you. It’s not a rowdy restaurant, we offer a real sense of privacy. Of course, there’s also undivided attention from me – nothing is done by a sous chef, it’s all me. Most of all, I hope they leave with a sense of both my cooking philosophy and my personality.”

“ What do I eat in Botswana?

Beef! We’ve got some of the best in the world. One day, we’ll all go together!”

On cue, one of the Norwegians rises for a toast: “Tonight, we have been laughing, we have appreciated the African spirit and the African nature. It’s been a lively evening for us, and in particular, it’s been amazing to be active rather than sitting around being served everything.” His countrymen are united in a reverential silence as he continues.

“When we return home, we’ll look into our iPhones and cry a little… and then ring you for a recipe.”

Over four hours it’s proved an intensely personal experience, and I can tell Joseph is touched by this ad hoc speech. “Tonight,” he says, “I’m very proud to have been part of your family.” His reply is warm and sincere, with plenty of hugs and handshakes as they file outside.

At which point, I note the rather large pile of cutlery that’s accrued. “Cooking without the washing up,” smiles Joseph, “that’s another thing you get when you visit this place.”

Joseph’s Culinary Studio ul. Duchnicka 3, tel. 663 572 574, www.josephseeletso.pl

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INTERVIEW CHEFS their own private restaurants on the top floor, so I’d get an hour’s rest in the park, have a Red Bull, then do a shift in those. I was working 20 hours a day at times. But I packed all this experience and knowledge into my head – London didn’t squeeze me, I squeezed London.

You’ve cooked for celebrities…

I’ve cooked for presidents, prime ministers – I did the Queen’s 80th birthday. Yes, you have to concentrate three times as hard, but if you’re professional you don’t have the radio on anyway, you don’t think about rubbish. Of course you feel excitement and happiness that these people are in your restaurant, but I’m more mature now, more experienced – it’s a bit more stress, but in the end it’s just another table.

What makes a top chef?

Very hard work and a little bit of luck.

You need to be well organized, to be able to think clearly. And you need toughness: first as an employee, and then as the chef.

Taking Warsaw dining in a new direction, Nolita restaurant is already a by-word for excellence. The man behind it, Jacek Grochowina, has already been touted as one of the brightest gastronomic talents the country’s ever seen.

What’s the story behind Nolita…

I don’t want people to feel like they’re in another Warsaw restaurant: you know, flowery wallpaper and all that.

It’s a world place, not typical Warsaw, and the same goes for the food. We wanted fine dining, but also more relaxed, a little more casual.

Your menu gets a lot praise…

We’re careful to select our suppliers.

We bake our own bread, produce our own chocolates. I want food that people can understand, but of course, with a few surprises. I don’t look

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at fashions, and I don’t care about things like burned leek powder. The food has to be true.

You've worked in The Ritz…

Working in The Ritz you’d get ingredients arriving twice a day, for the first time I saw the beef ageing process, tropical fish, etc. That gives you a lot of pleasure if you’re passionate about being a chef. I worked everywhere, and under some big names, not to mention for a top agency dealing with executive dining. All those big finance houses in Canary Wharf have

Tell me about home cooking?

I keep it simple: you’ll find eggs, butter, tomatoes, water, Coke, a bottle of white wine in the fridge. If I’m being romantic for my fiancée then it’s champagne and caviar. Maybe champagne with a prawn salad… either way, always champagne!

How about eating out?

I won’t forget a family-run trattorie in Milan: Aurora. My fiancée and I wanted soup, but by mistake the waiter served Zuppa di Cozze - spaghetti with tomato sauce and mussels, covered in a pizza dough. It was so good, in four days we visited it three times.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

The Future

Warsaw doesn’t have the finest gastronomic reputation…

A lot of people don’t care what they eat, and restaurants don’t care what they serve. But more and more people are growing to consider eating out as entertainment, and that’s the future.

Like Nolita, there’s one or two other places that are thinking two or three years ahead. But you need people to appreciate it and suppliers to understand. Unfortunately, there’s still a lot of venues that are more concerned about having beautiful paintings than beautiful food. It’s a slow process.

The Feminine Touch In a male dominated industry Agata Wojda has conquered stereotypes to establish herself as one of the premier chefs on the national circuit. The Insider drops in on her Opasły Tom PIW restaurant.

Was being a chef all part of a master plan?

I studied music at university, violin – but I found it boring, I didn’t know where I could go with it. For a time I worked with school children, and then decided to head to Spain to work on a catamaran. I saw a job as a chef on the boat, and headed out there. But by the time we finished building the catamaran, it was too late to sail it.

So I came back to Poland and figured I’d work a bit and then head back to Spain the following year.

Let me guess, that never happened!

Right. I saw a job advertised for a restaurant called Absynt and that’s where it all started. Soon enough, I forgot about the sailing.

Restaurant kitchens are still seen as something of a male preserve, are they not?

At Absynt the head chef was a woman, so it was easy for me. I like working with women – they’re better at multi-tasking in the kitchen. Take a look, at home most mothers make ten different things at the same time!

Being a woman you do need a special strength, and take on certain male characteristics, but over the years I’ve earned the respect of Warsaw’s male chefs.

What makes a perfect restaurant?

It can’t be too big. It’s vital to see the guests, to see what they’re saying about your food. And keep a small menu. My favorite guests are those who know me and my food, and exactly what I make. Sometimes I get people asking for something off the menu. Well, it’s my kitchen. I say to

them, “You’re welcome to stay and try my food, but if you want schabowy, well, please try somewhere else.” A good restaurant also needs a special atmosphere and understanding between its staff. If you’re working 12 hour days, that becomes very important. I’ve worked with some of the people here for six, ten years, and I trust them totally if I can’t come into work.

Define a good chef…

It’s not just about making funny little dishes. You need authority, and you need to be ready for hard work. We’ve got a small kitchen, so don’t think my job is just about PR or decorating food. I clean the floor sometimes, I wash the plates – hard work wins respect.

Warsaw dining feels a bit stop-start in

its progress…

Money is a problem. Three, four years back, we were seeing people who would never dine out suddenly doing so once a week… but they’ve disappeared again. Then there’s people, like my father, who never go out to restaurants unless it’s a wedding or something. There’s a lot of people like that in Poland.

Outside of work, where do you stand on food…

I hated spinach and hot milk as a child, and that still applies today! If I go to a restaurant I like then I leave myself in the chef’s hands, but I’ll never experiment if I don’t know the chef. At home I’ll usually have a good cheddar, quality Polish ham, different oils and white cheese. But my secret vice? Vifon soup that I upgrade with a few extra ingredients! facebook.com/warsawinsider

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INTERVIEW CHEFS surprises, and then you have a great product. It’s about produce, method, technique. Freshness is a word that comes to mind. People, equipment and ingredients are key. You need the best quality ingredients, and to then cook them in the way that’s best for them. A lot of the times that means keeping it simple, not over elaborating. Like the interiors here, I want the food to be clean, clear, fresh and accessible, not tired and overwhelming.

What characteristics does a chef need…

Sensibility, maybe sensitivity.

I think both. Taste is crucial, obviously. You need a logical mind as well, and the ability to put things together in the right way at the right time. I’ve learnt a lot from many chefs, but especially Phil Howard both in terms of leadership and my approach to cooking.

The biggest opening of 2013, Winosfera is so much more than just a wine bar. Under Jakub Adamczyk the kitchen has flourished into one of the most talked about spaces found around town. Mild in manner and cool of hand, the Insider catches up with Adamczyk to watch him in action.

You were 22 when you decided to become a chef, that’s quite late?

Remember Phil Howard started late as well. I worked under him at The Square, which has maintained a two star Michelin standard for 15 years.

These were the best possible surroundings for me – things stay in your mind: your bearing in the kitchen, the way you move, the way you approach products…

Even so, you must have had previous experiences with food…

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Where is Polish dining?

I didn’t work in restaurants before I went to England, so I can’t comI grew up in the countryside, near pare. Of course, we lost fifty years Radom. My grandparents had a farm of development and it left Poland with apples, pears, cherries. So yes, I with a poor, simple, unhealthy diet. know where food comes from, how it But remember, the UK wasn’t that should be delivered, and what’s unac- great either –gastronomy only really ceptable. Sure, as a teen I had other started developing to the next level things on my mind, but before that I in the 80s and 90s. The future of Warwas making butter, smoking meats: saw dining rests with the customer. that was normal for me.

If people want fresh honest food, I think some restaurants may struggle What’s your philosophy at Winosfera? – it’s a dynamic business. And In my view, the dining experience trends show that this is the direction: is a product. You need the right people are now thinking about what people and the right place, add a few they put in their mouths.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

The Household Name

It’s a nerve racking occupation surely?

You need to think one step ahead – in winter, you’re thinking about spring ingredients, etc. It adds blood to the veins… Sometimes you do need to give, let’s say, a spanking in the head to someone, but it must be done in a way that motivates them and makes them better as both a chef and as a person. Even if I had a closed kitchen, and the opportunity to kick ankles arose, that’s not my style. There’s a normal intelligent way of giving chefs motivation. At times you do need to raise the volume, but you shouldn’t do it to show-off. If you want people to listen to you, you need to be worth listening to.

The Maverick Straight-talking, easygoing and supremely sociable, Aleksander Baron has become a foodie favorite with his off-the-cuff style and commitment to quality.

Fashionably distressed, familiar and fresh, his Solec 44 restaurant is the definition of grassroots gastronomic greatness… and goodness.

You were a bad boy in your youth!

Ha, well, I was a graffiti artist for nine years – all over Warsaw: walls, trains, you name it. And then I got kicked out of Warsaw’s Academy of Fine Arts. At that point I moved to Scotland. It was a difficult time at first: no work, no money. Things changed for me when I met a chef, a German lad, called Ralph Peck. Up until then I’d been working as a waiter, bar tender, catering manager, the whole lot. Then, one day, I said to Ralph, ‘make me your bitch’. He became my mentor. After working for three months with him in the kitchen without a day off, he came up to me and said, “I shouldn’t say it because you’re Polish, but I like you!”

He gave me the skills I have today, and the confidence. I have an inner feeling I can do anything, and what’s more, I never get stressed – not after working for that son of a bitch!

So from Scotland to Poland, right?

Scotland was where I became a chef – it’s where I learnt to eat meat, and saw the difference quality suppliers make. That became my biggest challenge in Poland, finding these small farms, these little butchers, etc. Good food needs good ingredients – you can’t make something good out of something bad. But before all that, I was going to open a restaurant in the Virgin Islands, but the project never got off the ground. Instead I did nothing for a while – playing on the stock market: winning money, losing money. One day someone mentioned a new place that was looking for a chef. That was Nowy Wspaniały Świat.

It was a great adventure – the oven

arrived on launch day, the pots about two hours before doors opened. In the first eight days I slept for 11 hours! It was a real jihad, but I did it.

But now you are your own man, with your own place…

A lot of friends and family were involved from the start of Solec 44, which is why there’s such a good energy. It’s not your typical place, and we don’t have a typical menu. We’re definitely not mainstream. But it’s a place where you can eat, have fun, a proper bevvy. We’re an open space.

People approach me asking if they can hold an exhibition or a comedy night and the answer is yes – this place is alive.

And the secret to the success?

We go for seasonal produce, proper suppliers and have a small menu that

changes every few days – sometimes, every few hours. If we run out of something, it’s not a problem, we figure out something new. That means we don’t get bored, and our clients don’t get bored. Of course I could go into fine dining, but I don’t feel the calling.

I mean, what the f*ck is molecular cuisine! I do what I enjoy doing, and I’m pretty sure I’m doing it well.

More places should follow your lead…

There’s too many bad places. A lot of places cheat customers – they sell shit but charge good money. But the public is also part of the problem. If someone tells them something is brilliant, most are happy to believe it. But things are changing; a lot of places are pushing good produce. Sure, their suppliers are more expensive, but it’s a positive sign that more people are appreciating them. facebook.com/warsawinsider

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Brought to you by: BEFSZTYK

Rib eye, New York, filet mignon, sirloin, T-bone, porter house steaks from Angus beef, all seasoned for three weeks.

Gluten free smoked meats containing no preservatives

Fresh, upscale French poultry and Polish: organic duck, turkey and chicken.

A RARE FIND

It’s not easy to find a reliable butcher in Warsaw, least not one offering high-quality beef, lamb and venison, prepared on request. But… there is an exception!

ul. Puławska 176/178 tel. 22 843 6110, www.befsztyk.pl

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Fresh Merino lamb

Barbecue kits featuring marinades without preservatives and flavor enhancers.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

W

arsaw’s increasingly fussy foodies have carved a niche on the culinary landscape, and you’ll find their demands met at BEFSZTYK. Operating on Puławska for 19 years, their philosophy is uncompromising when it comes to high quality and top customer service. Over the years the Prokopowicz family has developed a reputation as a proven supplier whose outstanding produce is often impossible to find elsewhere.

For several years they’ve been the only Polish butcher to offer home delivery and internet ordering via www.befsztyk.pl. They also custom prepare products to meet the wishes of the client. And, aware of their growing international client base, they also speak English.

Reviews: Rozbrat 20 29 / Superiore 48 / Plus:

* 20 updates

RESTAURANTS

AFRICAN 29 / AMERICAN & TEX-MEX 29 / ASIAN 32 / BALKAN & RUSSIAN 35 / BRITISH 36 / BURGERS 34 / CHEAP EATS 46 / COOKING SCHOOLS 54 /FOOD SHOPS 53 / FRENCH 36 / GERMAN 37 /GREEK 37 / HOME DELIVERY 50 / INDIAN 37 / INTERNATIONAL & FUSION 38 / ITALIAN 44 / JAPANESE & SUSHI 47 / JEWISH 48 / LATIN 48 / MIDDLE EASTERN 50 / POLISH 50 / SCANDINAVIAN 52 / WHOLE FOODS 54 KEY

Insider’s Pick

$ zł. 30 (per main)

BOW 2012 Winner...........

Breakfast menu .............

Business meetings.......... $$$ over zł. 55 Child friendly...................

Insider writers do Delivery............................. not accept any Free wifi.............................. form of payment in Map location pg. 78 ...... (A1) return for favorable Romantic.......................... reviews.

Vegetarian friendly........... $$ zł. 30-55

AFRICAN Café Baobab (H4) ul. Francuska 31, tel. 22 617 4057. Open 10:00-23:00. Café Baobab serves Senagelese classics like thiebu djen, mafe yap and yassa ginar. It’s adapted to Polish tastes, but say the word and authentic spiciness can appear. $

* Rozbrat 20 ul. Rozbrat 20, tel. 22 628 0295, www.rozbrat20.pl. Open Mon-Thu 7:30-23:00; Fri 7:30-last guest; Sat 9:00-last guest; Sun 9:00-22:00.

I

PHOTOGRAPH BY KAROLINA KALINOWSKA

t’s difficult to describe something when words simply can’t do it justice. While Rozbrat 20 has been around sometime already, I’ve only just recently discovered it. It soon became my favourite place to dine, for all the meals of the day. That is because R20 fills the niche most artfully of a restaurant that also serves breakfast and brunch, all on a separate menu. It is everything a restaurant should be – modern, but not too excessive, as well as traditional at the same time. Elegance emanates from everything and class glints off the silver champagne bowl, the immaculately starched napkins, the silver breadbasket, and tasteful crockery. Yet it somehow avoids feeling overbearing.

Upon entering, my companion and I were greeted by the waiter, who then took our coats to hang, this impeccable service continuing throughout the morning. The breakfast menu was so abundant I could scarcely decide what to choose. There were eggs in almost all forms (but unfortunately no eggs Benedict) with the possibility of adding extras such as roast vegetables or ham, smoked salmon, rösti with different toppings, yoghurts and fruits, brioches, croissants… My companion and I finally settled on homemade pesto fromage frais to go with the bread basket, rösti with smoked salmon, and omelette with roasted vegetables, and we shared an omelette with figs and caramelized pears to finish off. It wasn’t just a feast for the eyes, but for the senses as well.

We sat languidly, with the early spring sun pouring in through the large windows: the restaurant was quiet and peaceful, I couldn’t understand how there were only three tables filled on a Sunday morning. This establishment deserves infinite praise and crowds, but the lack of the latter makes the experience even more special. I couldn’t wait to come back and have dinner there. Let me tell you, when I did, it was even better. (KK)

La MaMa Africa (C1) ul. Andersa 23, tel. 22 226 3505, www.lamama.eu. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-last guest; Sun 13:00-24:00. With dishes like baked cow back and gizzard on the menu the authenticity can’t be questioned, though the tastes certainly can. Maybe our tastes aren’t adventurous enough, but the goat stew felt like one big mistake. But judging by the regular custom, not everyone shares our view. $$

AMERICAN & TEX-MEX Amigos American Steakhouse (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 119, tel. 22 629 3969, www.restauracjaamigos.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-24:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-23:00.

Sometimes, all you need is a good steak to make everything okay. This is not the place to find one. Usually disappointing, occasionally catastrophic, this Wild West eatery gets nil points for style, and even fewer for service. $$ Champions Sports Bar (D5) Marriott Hotel, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 5119, www.champions.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. Long-known on the Warsaw scene as a sports bar – ideal for large groups

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RESTAURANTS of large guys drinking large amounts of beer and watching a large-screen TV. $$ Hard Rock Cafe (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, www.hardrockcafe.pl. Open 9:00-24:00.

Instantly recognizable by the giant neon guitar outside, Hard Rock has the pierced staff of skater boys and rock girls and a menu that is, if nothing else, completely reliable. Peruse rock’n’roll swag that includes Joplin’s blouse, Prince’s guitar and Shakira’s pants. $$ Jeff’s (B8) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 32 (Pole Mokotowskie Park), tel. 22 825 1650, www.jeffs.pl.

Open 10:00-24:00. Warsaw’s best breakfast aside, head to Jeff’s for megasize portions of American classics of the burger-ribs variety. Find their twin branch in Galeria Mokotów, along with an identical roadhouse design of blinking neon. $ Sioux (D4) ul. Chmielna 35, tel. 22 827 8255, www.sioux.com.pl. Open 10:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-23:00. You might want to point the shotgun hanging on the wall at the chef.

Decorated with horseshoes and feather headdresses, the only reason to show up is to humor a nagging infant. Food-wise, it’s little more than a cowboy-themed version of Sphinx: mass market food for those who don’t know better. $$ Someplace Else (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450

6707, www.someplace-else.pl. Open Mon 12:00-24:00; Tue-Thur 12:00-01:00; Fri & Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 12:00-23:00. Now favoring a concrete, industrial look, SPE have lost the Sky Sports and rousing rock acts that once made them such a legend of 90s/00s Warsaw. Nonetheless the Tex Mex renditions remain both reliable and good, though now they’re enjoyed more by hotel guests than repeat visit ex-pats. $$

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Spoco Loco ul. Sarmacka 10, tel. 887 447 447, www.spocoloco.pl. Open 12:00-22:00.

The food won’t amaze, but the salsas surely will. Graded from 1-7, the No. 7 comes with a health warning! Hotheads should check their facebook for news on chili-eating events. $

T.G.I. Friday’s (B3) al. Jana Pawła II 29 (Atrium Plaza), tel. 22 653 8360. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-24:00; Sat & Sun 12:00-24:00. The steaks are a miss-and-miss affair, but the burgers are always on-point inside this classic piece of stars & stripes vulgarity. $$ Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46 (entrance from ul. Poznańska), tel. 22 621 8622, www.warsawtortillafactory.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Hefty portions, freshly made tortillas and salsas that will rattle your brain are the core principles here. But don’t think of WTF as a mere restaurant. This ex-pat haven has it all, from live sports, bands and a party atmosphere that drags long into the night. $$

ASIAN Asia Tasty (C3) pl. Żelaznej Bramy 1, tel. 22 654 6120.

Open 9:30-21:00. One of the great secrets of culinary Warsaw – for those In The Know this is the place for cheap, cheerful Asian food. Not that it looks like much, this is as basic as interiors get; leave the hot date outside while you pick-up a takeout. $ Bar Sajgon (D4) ul. Bracka 18. Open Mon-Thurs 9:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 9:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-21:00.

A cult budget eatery once found in the defunct Russian Market. Two years after the original went pop they’re back with a neat looking effort on Bracka. Decorated with palms and mint colors, this double decker restaurant gains particular approval for its pho dishes. $ Bliss Restaurant (D2) Rynek Mariensztacki, tel. 22 826 3210. ul. Twarda 42 (off Rondo ONZ), tel. 22 620 3519, www.blissrestaurant.pl. Open daily 12:00-22:00. Longevity aside, Bliss (alive since ’95) boast classically cliche interiors that make dramatic use of dragons and buddhas.

Inconsistent accuse some, though you’ll struggle to find better Chinese-style ribs. $$ Canton (B2) ul. Smocza 1, tel. 22 838 3823, www.canton.warszawa.pl. Open daily 11:0022:00. Here’s what Chinese restaurants used to look like in the days of Bruce Lee:

ul. Senatorska 27 tel. 22 827 97 07 www.cesarski-palac.com.pl

ORIGINAL CHINESE CUISINE

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filled with dragons and lanterns, this place is an outright assault on your sensory system. Wokking away for over a decade, it’s actually not a bad place if you want an MSG booster. The Gong Bao chicken gets approval. $$

Cesarski Pałac (D2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 9707, www.cesarskipalac.com.

Open Mon-Fri 12:0023:00; Sat 12:30-23:00; Sun 12:30-22:00. A rouge tinted Chinese restaurant whose design even incorporates a footbridge. Widely acclaimed, the exhaustive menu combines Sichuan and Cantonese cuisine to serve a variety of dishes to an elegant backdrop. The Dim Sum are something else. $$ China Garden ul. Kazachska 1, tel. 22 241 1010, www.chinagarden.pl. Open daily 12:00-22:00.

Allegedly the first Jiangsu cuisine restaurant

in Warsaw, the tastes at the China Garden are indeed unique. On show here is everything from bull’s testicles boiled with soy sprouts, goose jaws and stewed bull’s penis with radish – I dare you. $$ Co To To Je ul. Nugat 7, tel. 882 188 302, www.cototoje. pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Signaling the latest twist in Warsaw’s diversification is this place – a restaurant specializing in bugs! Not for the squeamish, dishes here include silkworm skewers, mealworm larvae camembert, and crickets with duck and raspberry sauce. What could possibly go wrong? $$ Du-Za Mi-Ha (D4) ul. Widok 16, tel. 22 826 1871. A compact Vietnamese joint noted for fresh, healthy nem filled with crunchy, perky fibers. The pho, on the other hand, is disappointing – according to one reader, “awful”. Prices begin at around zł. 10 and don’t go far north of zł. 20. You get what you pay for. $ Dziki Ryż (multiple locations)

ul. Puławska 24b, tel. 22 848 0060, pl. Inwalidów 10, tel. 22 839 2540, ul. Wspólna 35, Tel. 22 628 1825, www.dzikiryz.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. Varied Asian cuisine with dishes from India, Thailand, China and Japan in a very charming setting. All locations of Dziki Ryż are popular and you’ll most likely need a reservation. $ Dżonka (D5) ul. Hoża 54, tel. 22 621 5015. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat & Sun 11:00-17:00. You say Thai and he says Chinese. You say somewhere graceful and he says nowhere showy. You say not too pricey and he says not too shoestring. Then sail into Dżonka. $ Fusion Perfect (D5) ul. Wspólna 35, tel. 22 628 1825. Open 12:0024:00. If rumor is to be believed, the owner is the guy who once created the Dziki Ryż empire. The choice covers all the bases, the tastes are convincing and the restaurant looks like a typical mid-market Asian: subdued lighting and dark woods. All it needs now is a few more customers to fill out the tables. $$

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RESTAURANTS InAzia ul. B. Prusa 2 (Sheraton Hotel), tel. 22 450 6705. Open Mon-Sat 17:00-23:00. The Sheraton has a rich history of serving some of Warsaw’s best Asian food, with chef Marcin Sasin creating a menu that draws on influences as diverse as Indonesian, Vietnamese, Thai and Chinese. Popular with Thai diplomats and hushed hotel guests, the experience is worth the quite considerable splurge. $$$ Loving Hut (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 41A, tel. 888 555 568, www.lovinghut.waw.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. What looks

like just another Vietnamese greasy spoon is, in fact, part of a global chain backed by a spiritual master. The reading material is creepy and cultish, but the vegan food is good if you’re that way inclined. $ Natara (B3) Al. Solidarności 129/131, tel. 666 101 500.

Open 10:00-22:00. With a few wilting orchids and some symbolic pics of Buddha this bi-level restaurant won’t be in the running for any style prizes. The food is spot-on though, and after a brief panic during which we considered ordering everything – it all sounds so good – the Insider settled for duck in wine and a classic green curry. The results were outstanding: rich,

Burgers Barn Burger (D4) ul. Złota 9. Now settled in newer, bigger digs, what had finished summer as Warsaw’s favorite burger has taken the foot off the gas. The offer has been increased but, so it seems, at the cost of the quality. Nonetheless, try the Muppet – served on wooden trays, it’s a messy affair loaded with salsa, jalapenos and BBQ sauce. $ Brooklyn Burgers & Wings ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel. 22 270 2144. Open 12:00-23:00; Sat 12:00-24:00. Warsaw’s love affair with burgers gets stronger with the opening of Brooklyn. With the best location of the lot, and a young American chef doing the biz in the kitchen, this is not just another copycat. Homemade sauces, wings, ribs, strips and beer (inc.

Sam Adams!), make this so much more than just another burger joint. $ Burgerator (B9) ul. Żaryna 2B, tel. 533 626 242. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-20:00. Penetrate the office/residential complex that’s sprung up around Żaryna to find Burgerator, a cheerful burger bar with a pop art touch and burgers that reflect the slavish perfectionism of the owner. A great place, and if we’re to believe the rumors, the first of many Burgerator’s that will appear around town – good news for all. $ Burger Bar (E10) ul. Puławska 74/80 (enter from Olkuska).

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Open Tue-Sun 12:00-20:00. Hands down the sort of burger Thurman and Travolta would chow in Pulp Fiction. Decorative elements don’t go beyond tables and chairs (of which there aren’t many), and waiting times can drive you nuts – as can the tramps who stagger past to the nearby bottle bank. The burgers though are a different class. $ Lokal Bistro ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 64.

Open 10:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-1:00.

Dentist colors and voluminous ceilings lend an austere but pleasant look to this Polish-style burger bar. Sit outside at the woodchip tables (oww! watch for splinters…) to enjoy burgers that incorporate Polish Red Angus, Baltic cod and mountain cheese. Our tip: order a towering double burger with red onion marmalade and homemade ketchup.

Delivered on a thick wooden board it’s completely delightful – if not a little messy. By the end of the meal the table will look like you’ve just given birth. $ Warburger (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-19:00. Forget Year of the Dragon, 2012 was Year of the Burger – or more specifically, Year of the WarBurger. Edging the competition, this diminutive little cabin wins eulogies across the board for base-level prices, super friendly service and pimped up burgers that use gourmet ingredients. $

velvety flavors and complex tastes. $$ Natara Old Town ul. Szeroki Dunaj 13. Open 11:00-23:00. Set inside the Old Town walls, the setting is magical – from the outside. Inside, it’s all dowdy brown and plastic plants. Service, if you can call it that, teases patience to the max, but the food is fantastic. Everything we’ve tried on the menu goes right, not least the fiery red curry duck. Highly recommended. $$ Papaya ul. Foksal 16, tel. 22 826 1199, www.papaya.waw.pl. Open 12:00-24:00.

A place of precise lines and slick finishes, Papaya have softened the interiors a little, giving the aesthetics a less rigid look. The menu is a considerable success and includes sushi, kobe beef and a much talked about Peking duck. Our advice, however, is to check out Poland’s only teppanyaki grill – thank us after. $$ Pekin Duck ul. Drawska 29A, tel. 22 412 8988, www.pekinduck.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. Looks like a typical Chinese – i.e., like a 1980s New Year’s Eve ball – and the service is carnage; expect lots of miscommunication and truculent attitude. The food isn’t bad, though it’d be interesting to know how many pigs feet they actually ever sell. $$ Shabu Shabu Hot Pot ul. Mokotowska 27, tel. 535 685 750.

Open 12:00-23:00. Each table has its own set of hot pots installed and once you choose your broth and extras, you are the master of your own culinary destiny. We chose some seafood and some greens and were served a dish that was not quite a pad thai, but incredibly tasty all the same. A simple meal, but satisfying nonetheless. $ Silk & Spicy (D5) ul. Żurawia 16/20, tel. 22 629 7012. Open 12:00-last guest. If you don’t benchmark Silk & Spicy against what you’d eat in Asia (and you really shouldn’t), then you might enjoy it.

“The curry was on taste-wise,” said our disappointed graphic, “but the cream cheese didn’t work in the sushi and the kmichi-style salad served at the beginning was very pedestrian for such a place.” $ Spring Roll (D4) ul. Szpitalna 3, tel. 519 828 788. Open 11:00-23:00. Baleful ballads and twangy cover versions of Bryan Bloody Adams set the

mood in this depressing eatery. The signature dish – spring rolls – don’t go beyond six out of ten, so what hope the rest of the menu? The teriyaki chicken should be renamed teriyaki chicken giblets, and comes with the addition of the worst ingredient ever devised: steamed cauliflower. Suddenly, all those empty seats make sense. $ Sunanta Thai Restaurant (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2216, www.sunanta.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-21:00. Small but perfectly formed interiors and a menu that’s widely hailed by Thai devotees. The green beef curry is outstanding. $$

suparomthaifood.pl. Tiny, when compared to its parent on Marszałkowska, and distinctly unassuming. Suparom’s green curry is the ‘best in the world’ according to one reader, and while such a superlative begs for a challenge, none is forthcoming – not from us, anyhow. $$

pl. Open Sun-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:001:00. A fresh attractive look, an authentic chef and a menu that doesn’t waffle on for pages and pages. But there’s something missing here, with the flavors not quite hitting the levels one expects. $$

Tien-Tien (C2) ul. Długa 29, tel./fax 22 635 3888. Open daily 10:00-22:00. A stained and seedy haunt that will look immediately familiar to readers who’ve strayed before inside Warsaw’s Vietnamese joints. Some rate the food - we don’t. $

Yummy (D5) ul. Wilcza 20. Open 10:00-22:00. The Insider’s favorite budget Asian eatery, even if the empty tables suggest dark forces at work in the kitchen. Modern and minimal, the lemon chicken is delicious and the pad thai is a sure bet. $

Suparom Thai (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 45/49, tel. 22 627 1888, www.suparomthaifood.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. Lovely interior with Siamese gold ornaments and gleaming dark wood.

The shrimp cakes are always worth a try. $$

Toan Pho (D4) ul. Chmielna 5/7, tel. 888 147 307.

Mon-Fri 9:30-23:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00.

Toan Pho’s bowls of soup with rice noodles come highly recommended; as does the chaos intrinsic to this type of casual Asian eatery. The short menu is in Vietnamese with Polish decoding – although you can ask for an English version. $

Suparom Thaifood II ul. Wałbrzyska 40, tel. 22 853 3087, www.

Why Thai ul. Wiejska 13, tel. 22 625 7698, www.whythai.

BALKAN & RUSSIAN Banja Luka (E8) ul. Szkolna 2/4, tel. 22 828 1060, www.banjaluka.pl. Open 12:00-24:00.

Numerous meaty dishes from Serbia and Croatia are served inside a Banja Luka, a Warsaw stalart who’ve moved with the time and... moved. The new, central location is as pleasing as the last, with lots of clunky timber

Panton 1

Panton 1

Our tapas bar in Mokotów is famed across the city, and operates in conjunction with our delicatessen.

We directly import Spanish ham, especially jamon serrano, jamon iberico as well as many different varieties of chorizo. Also, you’ll find a comprehensive choice of Spanish olives, sherry, ingredients for paella, preserves, guindilla pepper, piquillo, fish and other seafood. We specialize in original and elegant catering as well, with tapas being the forte.

All this is also available for order on our website: http://delikatesy.carmona.pl ul. K. Chodkiewicza 3, tel. 22 414 19 19, www.carmona.pl

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RESTAURANTS and imported ceramics. $$

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Babooshka (E3) ul. Oboźna 9, lok. 102, tel. 22 406 3366; ul. Krucza 41/43, tel. 22 625 1040, www.babooshka.pl. Open 10:00-22:00.

Looking intimate and woodsy Babooshka serves up dollops of simple Russian food to a budget conscious crowd. The bacon and tomato scented solyanka soup is a thick broth best suited for Warsaw’s long, windy nights. $ Gemo ul. Minska 25 (Soho Factory), tel. 22 468 1876, www.gemorestaurant.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. At last, a Georgian restaurant without gnarled furniture and peasant fabrics. Located inside Soho Factory, Gemo has severe, industrial style accented further by steel lights and exposed pipework.

The menu is modestly priced, yet includes several dishes to return for: the szaszlyk, for one. $ Montenegro ul. Natolińska 3, tel. 885 787 887. Open 11:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-23:00. The two levels are covered in soothing whites, and the interiors suggest a makeover conducted with little budget but plenty of taste. Servings are immense, leaving diners no room to explore other courses, and while the cevapcici (handrolled mince) are decent, they’re no superior to anything you might get in a reputable kebab store – but the reaction from Warsaw’s food blogs suggests we may have visited on

a bad day. Beware: clanking construction work bar, lots of food that’s way over-fried. $$ next door make earplugs a must. $ Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640, U Madziara (B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 620 1423, www.legendsbar.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. www.umadziara.pl. Open 11:00-21:00.

It’s a British pub first and foremost, but Looking at it you wouldn’t expect much, don’t forego the kitchen either. The all-day but there’s a reason the homely U Madziara has breakfast is a great way to stoke up your won the applause of Maciej Nowak – Poland’s drinking powers, while other dishes of note toughest food critic. That reason is Gabor, a top inc. pies, sausages and mash and, of course, chef who’s happy to join customers for a drink… fish and chips. $$ but only after he’s done the biz in the kitchen.

The salmon tartar is a great starter, but nothing FRENCH compared to his signature goulash. Good luck finding a better deal in Warsaw. $ Bistro de Paris – Michel Moran (D3) Varna (D6) ul. Lwowska 4, tel. 22 468 8792. Open 12:00- Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 22 826 0107, last guest.There’s a few Bulgarian joints in www.restaurantbistrodeparis.com. town, but none that look this good; decorated Open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00. Closed till May with rich, ruby colors and Balkan embroidery 6th for a refit, we’ve got no clue what the the interiors are primed for an all-singing Balk- revamp will bring. But the star of the show, fest. The menu is cheap and cheerful, with the chef Michel Moran, is going nowhere. With this full list of hearty, homey classics. $ flamboyant Frenchman at the helm, expect premium quality. $$

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BRITISH

Chez Belier

ul. Mickiewicza 9, tel. 22 400 22 11. Open

The British Bulldog (D4) ul. Krucza 51, tel. 22 827 0020, www.bbpub.pl.

Open 8:00-1:00. The pub design is wonderful, and straight out of Midsummer Murders with its Chesterfield sofas and Cutty Sark mirrors. But it’s been a downhill disaster since they lost the original management team. What could have become Poland’s original gastro pub now serves greasy burgers and, judging by the stench at the

12:00-24:00. Designed by Maciej Zień – Poland’s undisputed King of Fashion – Chez Belier looks five star with its immaculate blend of black and white colors, crystal lights and orchids. The menu is a compact affair, and is perfect in every respect: from presentation to taste. Modern and international, the offer numbers a fabulous tuna steak served on a bed of mango salsa. $$$

AUTHENTIC GERMAN & BAVARIAN CUISINE ul. Mokotowska 69 00-530 Warszawa tel. 022 628 73 84 www.adlerrestauracja.pl

We also offer catering and organize special events From Mon-Fri: lunch 19PLN

Be our guest!

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WARSAW INSIDER | MAY 2013

L’Arc (E8) ul. Puławska 16, tel. 503 171 682, www.larc.pl. Open 10:00-last guest. An elegant white/black eatery with elaborate plate presentations and crustaceans lurking in the water tank – the house specialty is lobster, and they’ve got it to a tee. $$ Saint Jacques (D4) ul. Świętokrzyska 34, tel. 22 620 2531, www.saintjacques.pl. Open 12:00-23:00.

Warsaw’s had a long liaison with France, yet the cuisine remains under-represented.

This bistro plays the right notes with an intimate interior sprinkled with street signs and life-size black and whites of distant day Paris. $$

GERMAN

Adler ul. Mokotowska 69, tel. 22 628 73 84, www.adlerrestauracja. pl. Open 10:00-23:30; Sat-Sun 13:00-23:30.

Set in a rustic rotunda, this veteran favorite packs in reassuringly caloric portions of pork knuckles, schnitzel and dumplings – all of a sudden, you understand why Helmut Kohl looks so large. Foaming beers served

by Bavarian country maids complete the authenticity. $$

GREEK Paros (D4) ul. Jasna 14/16, tel. 22 828 1067. Open 12:00-23:00. Out of all of the Warsaw’s Greek contributions Paros dazzles most, with a glitzy look that’s a complete u-turn from the typical tawerna look. Owned by the same team behind El Greco, the menu is identical, as is the quality – good to excellent. $$

*

Santorini (Saska Kępa) ul. Egipska 7, tel. 22 672 0525, www.kregliccy. pl/santorini.php. Open daily 12:00-23:00.

Looking dubious from the outside, Santorini has several surprises inside. Styled like a fisherman’s tavern, the lamb chops are in a class of their own, though leave room for the milfei dessert. $$ Sofra (C6) ul. Wilcza 71, tel. 22 628 0782. Open 8:00-last guest. The design looks great, even if it plagiarizes Charlotte a touch (white brickwork, blackboard, communal table), and it even has the same chattery buzz. So the surprise here is the food is Turkish, and not just any Turkish, but excellent Turkish! The lamb and beef in tomato sauce is already part of the Insider diet, and the moussaka not far behind. But forget the word diet when it comes to dessert – the cherry chocolate cake is outstanding, but a menace to the beltline. $ Tawerna Patris Miedzeszyński 407, tel. 22 357 11 11, www.tawernapatris.pl. Open Mon-Sat

12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00.Looking dusty and disheveled from the outside, Tawerna surprises everyone who visits. Decorated with white plaster walls and pics of Greek harbor towns, the seafood starters are something else. It’s impossible to judge what’s better: the mussels in tarragon or the marinated octopus. With prices this moderate, we suggest you order both. $$

INDIAN

*

Bombaj Masala (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 606 688 777.

Open 11:00-23:00. With wide space and slick finishes Bombaj Masala takes its inspiration from the gleaming district, not (like most its competitors) from Santa’s Grotto. The food polarizes opinion, though most agree the prices don’t reflect the quality, and spices won’t scorch. $$ Buddha (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 23, tel. 22 826 3501, www.buddha.info.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00.

The days of the Raj are recreated in Buddha, a fine-looking curry house with intricate interiors and top-drawer curries. The murgh masala jhodphur is our favorite, a bottom burning curry that appears as ‘ouch’ on the spice scale. $ Curry House ul. Żeromskiego 81, tel. 508 870 774.

It’s through happy little tears the Insider declares Curry House as the overall victor in the local curry wars. The eye-watering

Authentic Mexican food, great margaritas, tequila and a hot atmosphere!

Made using the best ingredients, nobody does Mexican food better!

Bienvenidos Amigos!!!

Al. Jerozolimskie 123A (Millennium Plaza), tel. 22 243 4618, www.dostacos.pl www.facebook.com/DosTacos.MexicanGrill

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RESTAURANTS vindaloo stands apart as Warsaw’s most macho curry, and the others don’t disappoint either. With this quality on show, it’s easy to ignore the primary design, drawn out waiting times and lunar location. $ Ganesh (D5) ul. Wilcza 50/52, tel. 22 623 0266, www.ganesh.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. Wildly inconsistent in terms of food and service. At a recent convention of the New Warsaw Curry Club the jalfrezi went untouched and murgh hara masala didn’t fare better.

Nonetheless, the madras was declared Warsaw’s best and the murgh makhanawala destroyed in minutes. Design-wise, the chic dark décor places it a cut above most of the competition. $$ Himalaya Momo (F1) ul. Ząbkowska 36. Open Mon-Thur 11:00-21:00; Fri-Sun 10:00-22:00. There’s only four tables here, so don’t linger. The size means several staples have been cut from the menu, among them naan bread – there’s no space for a tandoor over, you see. What kind of Indian restaurant forgets a tandoor oven? In this case, a very good one. What does appear on the Tibetan / Indian menu is usually delicious. $

*

India Curry (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 438 9350, www.indiacurry.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00.

In recent times inconsistencies have plagued what was a premier experience: but that stands to change! Closed for renovation, we’re

promised a new look venue that will marry top food with a loungey vibe. Watch this space. $$ Maharaja India (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 34/50, tel. 22 621 1392, www.maharaja.pl. Open daily 12:00-23:00.

A bedraggled looking old-timer set inside some showpiece Soviet concrete. Oily, unstimulating curries are the order of the day, so it’s surprising to learn the butter chicken is amongst the best in the city. $$

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Mandala (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 9/11, tel. 662 019 666, www.mandalaklub.com or www.indiaexpress. pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 13:00-21:00. Keen, supersize portions and an efficient home delivery service (indiaexperss. pl) have made this lot something of a bookmark. Not dissimilar from the curries you may have survived on as a student, Mandala are cheap, efficient and much more besides. $

11:00-22:00. The squid sizzler has the taste and texture of chewing gum, and the vindaloo is cunningly disguised as a bowl of red water with some chicken floating in it. “I get better curry on the oil rigs,” opined the Insider’s balti expert. For all of that, the biggest disappointment is Parivar’s apparent success. $ Saffron Spices (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 3, www.saffronspices.pl.

Open 11:00-23:00. Set on two floors Saffron has a menu more limited than most, though they have at least finally introduced alcohol.

The murgh makhani is fiercely inconsistent, and the chicken, in the words of one reader, ‘strange’. Nonetheless, we like it – when the chef does get it right, this place scores well. $$

INTERNATIONAL & FUSION

Namaste India (D1, D5) ul. Piwna 12/14, ul. Nowogrodzka 27, tel. 22 696 3856, www.namasteindia.pl.

Open Mon-Thur 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:0004:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. If waiting times are anything to go by this is quite probably the most popular curry in town, and yes, pretty much everything they make is of gold star standard. Find the original, more modest version on Nowogrodzka, and a (very) slightly more upmarket offering in Old Town. $

12 Stolików (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 519 151 504. Open 9:00-23:00. Affecting a boutique style, the look here is clean, crisp and scattered with lifestyle titles. And forming the central element is the kitchen – yes, here’s a place that promotes cooking as a form of theater.

The menu is chalked on a board, and while alio olio was overcooked, the big guns came out for the steak: a very decent piece of meat. Enjoyable enough, though nothing particularly memorable. $$

Parivar al. Waszyngtona 75, tel. 22 393 4104. Open

Akademia ul. Różana 2, tel. 22 828 99 11. Open 12:00-

“Casual fine dining in the heart of Warsaw” ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 292 0424, www.nolita.pl. For reservations: rezerwacja@nolita.pl Open Mon-Fri 12:00-15:30, 18:00-22:30; Sat 13:00-23:00

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WARSAW INSIDER | MAY 2013

24:00. Actor Borys Szyc enters the restaurant trade with the launch of this restaurant, a beautiful space composed of white brickwork and an intimate mezzanine with banquettes and some hammock style seats. The cooking has been left to Grzegorz Nowakowski (formerly of Amber Room), and his menu is as artful as one expects – for instance, pumpkin soup with ginger and coconut foam. Already a haunt of the rich and famous, we’ll be going undercover there next issue. $$ A Nóż ul. Różana 30, tel. 608 386 388. Open 9:0023:00. A truly global offering, with elements of Asia, Europe and America all incorporated into the menu. ‘A Jack of all trades, master of none,’ you might think. You’d be wrong.

Burgers, pastas, Asian-inspired salads, and pizzas are represented, and while some need fine-tuning, the overall impression is positive and optimistic. Paired with a cool, typically Warsaw interior (unfinished ceilings, a communal table, bare light bulbs), it appears the owners have a success story in the making. $ Bistecca ul. Branickiego 11, tel. 22 258 1243, www.bistecca.pl. Open 12:00-23:00.

A warm and welcoming meat-themed restaurant, featuring one of the largest pieces of steak we’ve ever seen. But if you don’t fancy being chef for the night, stay away from the mixed grill – after a few moments of confusion we realized we were meant to finish the cooking process ourselves; a novel idea, but not what we had in mind when we went out for the evening. $$ Bistro Warszawa (B1) ul. Jezuicka 1, tel. 22 635 3769, www.bistrowarszawa.pl. Open 12:00-24:00.

The menu cites pre-war recipe books as its influence, and on it you’ll find such dishes as goose in thyme sauce with pear and zucchini.

The interiors are strictly contemporary though, with vanilla colored furnishings, wine racks and walls papered with hundreds of theater scripts and book pages. Regular jazz performances draw crowds from across the city. $$ Boathouse (G4) ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 389a, tel. 22 616 3331, www.boathouse.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:0022:00. For the supersize treatment head to Boathouse, a leviathan restaurant set in three acres of riverside parkland – perfect for lazy Sundays with family and friends. Freshly re-opened after a winter break, during which

time Chef Luc has traveled the Mediterranean sourcing the best ingredients and snooping out new recipes. $$ Bufet Centralny (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34, tel 523 749 160. Open 12:00-2:00; Sat 12:00-6:00; Sun 14:00-24:00.

With white tiles, an artsy carpentered bar and draftsman desk lamps hanging from the walls, Bufet certainly gets points for design. The Hungarian fish soup is delicious, while the chocolate soufflé is airy, gooey and all things nice. But choice diminishes quickly – get there early to order the ribs. $$ Butchery & Wine (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 502 3118, www.butcheryandwine.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00. The most talked about restaurant of 2011 shows no sign of waning.

Served on wooden boards by staff in butchers aprons, the steaks are beyond reproach, and commonly considered the best in the city. In the evening, reservations remain recommended. $$ Brasserie Warszawska ul. Górnośląska 24, www.brasseriewarszawska.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00.A posh looking bistro whose credentials are supported by crisp shirted staff, gleaming surfaces and zinc mirrors. The menu changes daily, and on the Insider’s visit included outstanding Fine de Claire oysters on a bed of fennel. The English influence of an owner who once managed The Grill at London’s Dorchester Hotel, shines through on Friday when dishes like fish & chips are served. $$$ C.K. Oberża (D4) ul. Chmielna 28, tel. 22 828 4585, www.ckoberza.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-24:00. A woodlooking eatery where towering plates of food present considerable challenge to carnivore appetites – come hungry. All the basic culinary needs are covered, while the Cesarska Deska Mięs features practically every animal to ever come out the wrong end of an abattoir. $$ Concept 13 (D4) ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7373. Open 12:0023:00. Perched on the fifth floor of the Vitkac luxury department store, Concept 13 has a look that’d be approved of by any lifestyle mag: hardwood floors, glass and plenty of open spaces. The menu is contemporary and cleverly direct, five course set lunch

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RESTAURANTS menus from zł. 50. Modern designer dining BEST WAWA 2012 rarely gets better. $$$ “Restaurant for a Business Meeting” Winner, “Restaurant Design” Winner

stakes, with their new menu. Appealing to the serious spender, the US Longhorn (a cool zł.

185) is utterly unforgettable. Try it with orange whiskey sauce. $$$

Delikatesy Esencja (F7) ul. Marszałkowska 8, tel. 22 480 8018, www.delies.pl. Open 8:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 8:002:00; Sun 8:00-23:00. A long, narrow space that’s a mix of bar, restaurant and ‘culture’ cafe – only this looks better than most. No second hand collectibles here, just a cool look accented by concrete colors and overhead pipes. The menu is a creative, light bite affair with dishes like gyutataki served to a hip crowd who’ve outgrown nearby Plan B. $$

Duchnicka Wine & Food ul. Duchnicka 3, tel. 22 320 2989, duchnickawinebar.com. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00. Filling the boots of outgoing chef Joseph Seeletso is Michał Budnik, a rising star with a bright future ahead. The thrilling menu includes cappuccino soup, and a totally triumphant T-Bone. $$

Downtown Restaurant (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental Hotel, level 2), tel. 22 328 888. Open daily for Breakfast 6:30-10:30; Mon-Fri Business Lunch 12:00-15:00, Sat Lunch 12:00-15:00, Sunday Brunch 12:30-16:00. Dinner 17:30-22:00 every Mon-Thurs. There’s now a few candidates for Warsaw’s best steak, and Downtown have certainly upped the erm,

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WARSAW INSIDER | MAY 2013

Flaming & Co. (E6) ul. Chopina 5, tel. 22 628 8140, www.flaming-co.com. Open 7:30-24:00.

A superb eatery seemingly styled by Ralph Lauren. Winning rave reviews across the board, find a strong international offering and even a small playground in the park that it views. $$ Grill & Co (B9) ul. Żaryna 2B (Milllennium Park, Building C), tel. 22 646 0045, www.grill-co.com. Open

12:00-last guest. Featuring plexiglass seats and clean, dark woods this place could easily be mistaken as one of the trend dens on Mazowiecka. A top (m)eatery, the filet mignon is perfect, and served with generous sides.

Prices, too, are pleasingly moderate. $$ La Rotisserie (C1) ul. Kościelna 12 (Le Régina Hotel), tel. 22 531 6000, www.leregina.com.

Open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, 12:00-23:00; Sat & Sun 7:00-11:00,12:00-23:00. That the head chef, Paweł Oszczyk, came within a whisker of pipping Wojciech Amaro in the Best Chef category of our 2012 awards says a lot. And he’s not the only star on the pay roll: there’s also Andrzej Strzelczyk, Poland’s top ranked sommelier. Mixing ‘French techniques, Polish products and Italian influences’, Oszczyk’s menu is built for superlatives. The venison is magnificent, and on our visit came served by Poland’s most theatrical waiter – BEST someone, give him a TV show. $$$ WAWA 2012 “Hotel Restaurant” Winner Likus Concept Store (D3)

ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18, tel. 22 492 7409, www.likusconceptstore.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00. This former bath house is adorned by columns and hand-painted glazed ceramics. A fine menu of fusion fare with an ‘artsy flair’ is guaranteed, with creative desserts to follow with. Over 300 Italian wine labels (not to mention tipples from Spain, France and Austria), as well a selection of cigars make Concept a number one choice for that all important meal. $$$ Masz Gulasz ul. Piękna 15, tel. 22 370 2550. Open MonSat 11:00-22:00. Magda Gessler continues her campaign to takeover Warsaw with the opening of Masz Gulasz, a warm looking midmarket eatery whose menu comprises chiefly of thick stews and goulash.

Nolita ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 292 0424, www.nolita. pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-15:30, 18:00-22:30; Sat 13:00-23:00. A swank center restaurant anchored on the skills of Jacek Grochowina – a young talent who honed his skills at the

London Ritz. Looking chic and high end, we enjoyed Tournedos Rossini: a victorious dish comprised of dainty pink meat, black truffles, foie gras and pureed potatoes served in a cast iron pot. Heaven. And order the sorbet.

Dusted with a secret cosmic ingredient, first taste gives an intense fizzy sensation that’s utterly unexpected. One of the top dining rooms in Poland. $$$ Nowa Kuźnia ul. Stanisława Kostki-Potockiego 24, tel. 794 16 019, www.nowakuznia.pl.

Open 12:00-last guest. Mere steps from Wilanów’s 18th Century church, this former blacksmiths passes muster with excellent steak and a cocktail list invented by Richard Winkler – former mastermind of Paparazzi and Porto Praga. The fish too is fantastic and fresh, meaning even without their clincher – the summer garden – it’s very much a destination to follow. $$

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Opasły Tom (E4) ul. Foksal 17, tel. 22 621 1881. Open 10:0023:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-23:00. Are you inside

a bookshop or a restaurant? The mind plays tricks in Opasły. But chef Agata Wojda puts any questions to rest, with outstanding dishes that use fresh, local ingredients – the tasting menu is a must, and proof of Wojda’s increasing rank amongst Warsaw’s best chefs. $$ Passe Partout (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 21, tel. 22 616 2882, www.passepartout.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22.00. Looking like a business class waiting lounge, it’s easy to overlook Passe Partout – more so now the beautiful back garden is closed off for winter.

But you’d be a fool to do so. Unassuming it might be, but there’s something clearly very right with the kitchen. The diverse international menu has too many positives to count, though the Insider recommends the pork tenderloin: served with a blue cheese and balsamic sauce, it’s a plate licking meal. $$ Platter by Karol Okrasa (C4) InterContinental Hotel, ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8734, www.platter.pl. Open 12:00-16:00,17:30-23:00. The hotel has

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Brought to you by: Sowa & Przyjaciele

CHEF'S SPECIAL ROBERT SOWA With interests that include TV shows, books, and numerous public appearances, Robert

You’ve been around for a while Robert, where did it all begin?

I was working at the time as a chef in Austria, when Warsaw’s Sobieski Hotel approached me in 1992. Within three years I was executive chef and worked there for a total of 17 years – yes, that’s quite a while, but the owners of the hotel were always open to everything I did, which is why I stayed there so long. Eventually though, I just said enough, I have to do something different than working in a hotel – it was time to open my own culinary ‘house’.

scrambled eggs. It was fine, fine apart from the fact they had been cooked with sesame oil. That was the last Korean breakfast they had.

But you weren’t just working for Sobieski though, right…

I worked as chef to the Polish national football team, traveling the world with them. For the 2002 World Cup we took 700 kilos of products from Poland over to Korea. One day one of the Korean chefs said to me, “don’t worry Robert, I’ll handle the scrambled eggs today.” Well, next thing I heard was a commotion from the players in the restaurant: “What the f**k is this!” I went in to check what was going on and the whole team gathered round me to watch me try these

Is there any one meal that stands out in your life?

Hmmm, well, I remember a gastronomic conference in Lyon in ’95. In the evening, they drove all of us chefs to an old farmhouse 40km out of town. The only thing being served was potato puree with cheese, and baked beef in its original sauce. It was amazing, and brought the point home that it’s not where you eat, but what you eat that is important.

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WARSAW INSIDER | MAY 2013

Anecdotes aside, you’re in a high stress occupation…

If you work in a restaurant it does twist your head eventually. Our busiest time is when other people have their holidays – we have a saying: “if people are dancing, we’re working.” But that’s life. If cooking is your passion, then you’ll feel happy, not tired.

You’re quite specific about ingredients…

TRANSLATION SERVICES PROVIDED BY AKADEMIA PFF

Sowa is more than just a chef – when it comes to food he’s a national ambassador. A familiar face to all, the Insider drops in to his vastly acclaimed Sowa & Przyjaciele restaurant.

Roasted marinated venison loin on cabbage stuffed with truffle potatoes and bacon served with mushroom sauce and roasted oscypek Serves 4 people

1 4x160g

150ml

4

12

If I can’t get something that’s fresh, I won’t serve it. We’re committed to quality, and we’re not lying when we say that. We source beef from Spain, lamb from New Zealand, cheese from France, etc. People ask me all the time, “Robert, why aren’t you promoting Polish food?” Well, I live in the EU. If something French or German is better then I’ll serve that. I want to give diners the best there is.

How do you define a good restaurant?

If you’re happy going there on your own, you know it’s a good place. I compare going to a restaurant to going to the cinema. You don’t go to the cinema for something you can get at home, you go there for something interesting. It’s the same with a restaurant.

Tell us about being a chef in PL… Until the 90s being a chef was considered one of the worst jobs you could have here – it was a job for stupid people. Honesty is important – I pay people punctually, I don’t involve myself in ‘black’ business. There’s so much to consider that goes beyond cooking. But where the food is concerned, I say, “cook for your guests like you’d cook for yourself.” And while new ideas are important, I’m not about trends. Of course, there’ll be some molecular decoration, but it all comes down to the quality of the products, nothing else.

100g

2

½

1

1 50ml 150ml

Ingredients

fennel bulb venison loin cooked using the sous vide method reduced meat stock savoy cabbage rolls stuffed with potatoes (baked, mashed with truffle oil and crunchy bacon) balls scooped from oscypek

for sauce

morel mushrooms tablespoons of canola oil diced onion smashed garlic clove thyme branch cognac 36% heavy cream Salt & white pepper to taste

Preparation: Prepare sauce: Sautee onion, garlic and

thyme in hot oil. Add cognac and then cream.

Cook until the sauce thickens. Add salt and pepper to taste.

• Put cabbage rolls into a 160°C oven for 10 minutes. For the last 3 minutes add the oscypek balls.

• Brown venison in the pan, add meat stock and heat (turning constantly in the sauce), for about 15 minutes.

•The meat should be served with half of the savoy cabbage roll, aromatic oscypek and morel mushroom sauce.

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RESTAURANTS roped in celebrity chef Karol Okrasa to head their revamped dining room. As a temple of nouveau Polish, the new layout isn’t a dramatic change from the previous occupant, Frida Restaurant - but the food is faultless. In particular, the herb garden salad with prawns comes immaculately groomed. An already excellent experience has been raised to talking point level. $$$

Zachęta, and despite the grand vaulted ceiling offers substantial privacy with tables nestled beside major columns. The set lunch menu emphasizes Polish, while offering a main menu that’s definitely trendy European: the dishes will be licked clean.

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Po Prostu Zachęta (D3) pl. Małachowskiego 3, tel. 22 556 96 77. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-20:00.

Sophisticated yet cozy, Darek Ryniec’s restaurant is set on the lower level of the

*

Porto Praga (F1)

ul. Stefana Okrzei 23, tel. 22 698 5001, www.portopraga.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:0023:00. Maturing from the murky concept of restobar, Porto Praga have entered a new stage of life: that of a fine dining establishment. The chef’s philosophy is to maintain the natural flavor of ingredients, and the slow food angle is emphasized by magnificent lamb from Połoniny region. PP are equally proud of their seafood, so visit on Thursday / Friday when their ‘fish market’ menu introduces the likes of monkfish, John Dory and strawberry grouper. $$ Qchnia Artystyczna (E6) Zamek Ujazdowski, Al. Jazdów 2, tel. 22 625 7627, www.qchnia.pl.

Open 12:00-24:00. Suitably artistic eatery with imaginative dishes, lots for vegetarians, and a lovely park view from the terrace. $$

Welcome to our little corner of Italy! delizia is the place where we express our passion...

-Luca & Lorenzo delizia Ristorante Italiano ul. Hoza 58/60 (entry from ul. Poznańska), Warsaw RESERVATION: info@delizia.com.pl, tel. 22 622 66 65 Mon-Sat noon to 10 p.m. (or last guest)

Restauracja 99 (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 22 620 1999, www.restaurant99.com. Open Mon-Thurs 8:00-23:00; Fri 8:00-24:00; Sat 15:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. Sporting a futuristic look, 99 is an enduring veteran of the CBD circuit.

No longer the top dog for business wining / dining, it nonetheless remains a very safe choice for perfect steaks and loaded margaritas. $$ SAM (E3) ul. Lipowa 7, tel. 600 806 084. Bistro, bakery, hangout. However you choose to label SAM, it’s the talk of the town. Noisy Charlotte won all the press last summer, this time round its SAM. The cooling concrete interiors buzz throughout the day, with touches like communal tables well suited to the ascetic style.

Owned by the same lot in charge of 6/12, there’s a similar commitment to good, healthy eating employed here. $$

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Signature ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 55 38755, www. signaturerestaurant.pl. Open 12:00-23:00.

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WARSAW INSIDER | MAY 2013

With cutlery from Eternum, original Marilyn photos shot by Milton Greene, columns and reliefs from the days this was the Soviet Embassy and 1950s Oswald chairs, it sure looks the part. The menu is contemporary but never flamboyant, with our meal including tuna tataki for starter and a pink duck breast for main. Both were excellent, and exactly what one expects from Poland’s top hotel. $$ Solec 44 (F4) ul. Solec 44, tel. 798 363 996, www.solec. waw.pl. Open Tue-Sun 12:00-last guest; Mon 16:00-last guest. The minimalist and laid-back interior comes courtesy of Martin Walli, a SwissPolish game freak, and kitchen guru Aleksander Baron. The casual bistro-cum-bar they built is a reflection of their passions, a place serving up a small, daily-changing menu of soul foods made from fresh, seasonally appropriate ingredients, complimented by a massive selection of board games, cards and logic puzzles... $

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Soul Kitchen ul. Noakowsiego 16, tel. 519 020 888, www.soulkitchen.pl. Open Mon-Thur 12:0022:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00.

While intended to look chic and high-design, the interiors come across as a little IKEA in the flesh. But who cares? Chef Andrzej Polań has masterminded a beautiful, modern menu whose highlights include baked goose with gooseberry sauce. The back garden really is a garden, complete with grass and tooting musical neighbors – check it out. $$

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Tamka 43 (E3) ul. Tamka 43, tel. 22 441 6234, www.tamka.43. pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-23:00. There is an inspiration here which causes guests to linger over their meal, explore it and wonder at it. Food isn’t the background; it is the centerpiece. Chef Robert Trzópek learnt his trade under Ferran Adria, and his menu pitches modern techniques against traditional – primarily root – ingredients. Amazing. $$

ITALIAN Arsenał (C2) ul. Długa 52, tel. 22 635 8377, www.restauracjaarsenal.pl. Open 10:0023:00. It’s been years since we heard great words about Arse, and while the food remains fine there’s a distinct impression that their finest hour has long since passed.

A great play area for kids, it’s still not a bad option if you’re heading from Old Town with accompanying bambinos. $$

Bacio ul. Wilcza 43, tel. 22 626 83 03, www.bacio.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00.

Under new management the new look Bacio has been decluttered and simplified and now features a stripped down look and a menu that peaks with the duck in red wine risotto. Portions are huge, and are matched by a quality that’s seen this once ailing giant reinstalled as one of the top eats in town. $$ Bacio Angelo (E5) ul. Wilcza 8, tel. 22 622 4454, www.bacio. pl. Open Sun-Thur 10:00-last guest; Fri & Sat 11:00-last guest. With a charming folklore interior, the candlelight will lead you into a world of sweet romance. The delicate antipasti and Italian merlot will certainly ease you into good conversation. $$

Kotłownia ul. Suzina 8, tel. 22 833 23 27. Open 13:00last guest. You’d never guess from the grey surrounds but Kotłownia is one of the emerging stars of Warsaw dining. Set in a historic disused boiler house (the Warsaw Uprising started right outside!) a generous helping of wooden touches warm the split level industrial interiors, but it’s the food that steals the show.

The modern Italian menu reflects the owner’s passion for Italy, as does the handpicked wine list. The convivial atmosphere makes it perfect for a long, lazy lunch. $$ La Bufala (B4)

ul. Sienna 86. Open 10:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-22:00. On the right day you’ll find the ex-pat proprietors of Warsaw’s more refined Italian eateries using this for their pizza fix. It might not look like much, but its reputation speaks for itself. $ La Tomatina (D4) ul. Krucza 47. Open Sun-Thurs 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00. Calamitous, slapstick service and accusations pointing to the overuse of readymade ingredients shouldn’t detract from splendid pizzas served in a modern interiors of stark white walls and concrete floors. The spicy tiger prawn spaghetti is also

Bellini (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 21, tel. 22 831 0202, www.restauracjabellini.pl. Open 12:0023:00. Queen of cuisine Magda Gessler brings her magic to the realm of Italian cooking with this spacious, enigmatic cellar restaurant just a few doors down from U Fukiera. Brilliant pizzas, especially the signature white pizza, with fresh mozzarella, provolone, rucola, pear slices and pine nuts. $$ Delizia (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 22 622 6665, www.delizia.com.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:0022:00. The reasons for Delizia’s success are twofold: Luca and Lorenzo. Luca’s the front man, a charismatic chap and natural showman. In his hands, you’ll feel like a star. Then there’s Lorenzo, the chef out the back. Between the pair of them they’ve turned this tiny little venue into Warsaw’s most convincing Italian enterprise. Top quality imported products, a dimly-lit romantic atmosphere, tasteful interiors and brilliant food: what more do you need? $$ Enoteka (C2) ul. Długa 23/25, tel. 22 635 5510, www.enotekapolska.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 14:00-22:00. The menu is updated quarterly and beefed up with the harvests of the season. The house specialises chiefly in Italian labels whose price tags range from “what a deal!” to “worth it for a celebrity splurge.” The minimalsitic rustic interior is just the right spot after a stroll in the neighboring Old Town. $$

RISTORANTE SAN LORENZO AL. JANA PAWŁA II 36 TEL. 22 652 1616 WWW.SANLORENZO.PL facebook.com/warsawinsider

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RESTAURANTS great, even if the presentation looks like a student cooked it. $ L’Olivo (B4) ul. Żelazna 59A, tel. 784 442 240. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:30; Sun 13:00-22:00. The menu is cheaper and less extravagant, but the level of passion is equal – from the makers of Delizia comes L’Olivo, an informal looking

spot with fantastic pizzas using the same quality, import products and a range of other authentic choices. The affogato is not to be missed. $ Mąka i Woda ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 91 87. Open 17:00-22:00. Stop press! Here’s one more candidate for Warsaw’s best pizza. Made

Cheap Eats Fabryka Frytek ul. Złota 3, www.fabrykafrytek.pl.

Open Mon-Thu 10:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 10:002:00; Sun 11:00-22:00. Giant portions of Belgian fries (up to 600g!), waffles, wedges and whatever else you can make out of a potato served come served with an equally comprehensive range of dips and sauces. $

Okienko ul. Polna 22, tel. 603 771 483.

Open 9:00-22:00; Fri 9:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00. Food through a hatch with pride of place going to fantastic Belgianstyle fries served with a comprehensive choice of sauces (top marks to the jalapeno). Large portions are zł. 10, and do just the job on post-pub munchies. $

Friterie (D5) ul. Hoża 42, tel. 794 158 813. Open SunThu 9:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 9:00-2:00.

Served in paper cones, the Belgian-style chips come with that inimitable doublefried crunch and a range of sauces that merit experimentation: try the ‘Andaluse’. $

Pan Ziemniak Al. Jana Pawła II 41A. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00. With a custom-made cast iron potato oven and a menu that changes daily it’s not hard to see the draw. There’s usually about 16 toppings chalked up on the board, and these range from norm (tuna mayo) to the unexpected (chicken curry). $

Groole (D6) ul. Śniadeckich 8, tel. 795 633 626, www.groole.pl. Open 12:00-20:00. You’ll find potatoes served everywhere in Poland, just not in the way we like them: i.e., with a crunchy, crispy skin and lots of hot, melted goo. Groole fill that gap with jacket spuds loaded with toppings such as spicy cherry tomatoes or chicken curry. A revelation! $

Mr Pancake (E3) ul. Solec 50, tel. 888 021 888. Lurking amid the side streets of Powiśle, the pancakes here are brilliant and come with a heap of toppings and funny faces traced into them with icing sugar. Who cares if the staff wander around like they’ve just smoked a bong – it’s great. $

Meat Love ul. Hoża 62, tel. 500 149 210, www.meatlove.pl. Open Mon-Thu 10:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. An eco-minded sandwich stop, this intimate basement has a smart wooden look and friendly staff notable for their daring body art. The home-baked baguettes are the star, and come with a range of organic ingredients complimented with thick cuts of top quality animal.

Roast beef, pulled pork and porchetta are just a few of your options. $

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To Tu Dumpling Bar ul. Niekłańska 33, www.chinskapierogarnia.pl. Open 10:00-21:00. Set in a ropey looking pavilion To Tu excels when it comes to dim sum. The kim chi soup is pretty special as well. $ Wurst Kiosk (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 17, tel. 606 133 134.

Open 11:00-22:00; Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-19:00. Authentic German sausages served through a hole-in-a-wall with big dabs of mustard and fresh bread.

The currywurst is fabulous, and there’s also Belgian-style fries. $

using Stefano Ferrara Napoli ovens, and top quality ingredients (Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, Caputo flour, etc.), expect to be hearing a lot about MiW in the coming months.

Great stuff, with a good line in homemade pastas and sides also featuring. $ Mamma Marietta (C10) ul. Wołoska 74A, tel. 22 880 0071. Open 12:00-22:00. Famed in ex-pat circles, head chef Andrea (formerly of Da Aldo) has created a bright bijou eatery that’s openly regarded as one of the finest and most authentic Italian experiences in Poland. The seafood has a particularly stellar reputation, as does the smattering of Sicilian dishes. $$ Mezzo Italian Steakhouse ul. Sienkiewicza 5 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel.

22 756 3343. Open Sun-Thu 12:00-21:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-22:00. Tucked at the tip of Konstancin’s park, Mezzo’s wood-burning brick pizza oven constructed in the garden gets all the thumbs up. Also novel to the community is a chance to enjoy top-notch beef – using filet from Poland and T-bones from Irish Hereford cattle, Mezzo’s newly designed kitchen uses a lava grill to ensure excellence each time. $$ Nonsolo Pizza (A6) ul. Grójecka 28/30, tel. 22 824 1273. Open Mon-Sun 12:00-23:00. Design doesn’t figure highly here, instead the onus is on food – the salads are good, but the pizzas even better; maybe even the best in the city. Who says so? Only about a zillion Italians who order from here. $ Parmizzano’s (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel, Floor 1), tel. 22 630 6306. Open 12:00-23:00.

The prices are highly intimidating, but are offset by cooking that never falls below brilliant. Hotel restaurants get a bad rep, but in the formal surrounds of Parmiazzano’s diners can expect Italian food at its very best. $$$ Pomidoro (Konstancin-Jeziorna) Al. Wojska Polskiego 3, tel. 22 702 8777. Open daily 12:00-last guest. An authentic Italian restaurant located in a renovated paper mill.

Chef Ricardo whips up some of the best pizzas, pastas and steaks you’ll find in this city. Try the spaghetti alle vongole or the bistecca alla fiorentina for a real taste of Tuscany. $$ Punta Prima ul. Obrzeżna 1B, tel. 22 406 0886, www.puntaprima.com.pl. Open 11:00-last

guest. A formal looking space with wood walls and important chests and cabinets. Start with a glass of prosecco before being blown over by mains like guinea fowl with truffle puree and caramelized beetroot – even better than it sounds. $$

Ristorante San Lorenzo (B3)

Al. Jana Pawła II 36, tel. 22 652 1616, www.sanlorenzo.pl.

Open 12:00-last guest. Adorned with crisp, starched linen and Roman frescos this space is almost magisterial in design. The Tuscan menu is flawless and well worth the rather hefty bill. The wine bar on the ground floor features the same standards at a snip of the price, and it’s here you’ll find Italian natives cheering the Serie A football. $$$ Trattoria Rucola na Miodowej ul. Miodowa 1, tel. 888 574 4357, www.trattoriarucola.pl. Open 12:00-22:00.

Firmly established in Saska, Ruccola have expanded to cover the West side. The M.O is very much the same, with huge wall prints of verdant forest scenes, and a menu that impresses across the board – the pizza in particular gets our seal of approval. $ Venezia (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16, tel. 22 622 1537, www.venezia.com.pl. Open noon-23:00. What happens when a restaurant hits the skids?

They call Magda Gessler, or more specifically her Polski version of Kitchen Nightmares.

Reinvented under her guiding hand, Venezia are back with an exciting menu and an informal design that includes Venetian murals and a stone lion. Can Venezia reclaim their reputation? The grilled sirloin with chili says yes. $$ Venti-tre (E7) ul. Belwederska 23 (Hyatt Hotel), tel. 22 558 1094. Open 6:30-23:00. The high class confines of the Hyatt are the home of Venti Tre, a contemporary restaurant with an open kitchen, and a Mediterranean inspired menu constructed using carefully sourced

ingredients from local suppliers. The results are outstanding. $$$

JAPANESE & SUSHI Hana Sushi (A1) al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), www.hanasushi. pl. Dated decor of bamboo shoots and bonsai trees is made to look good by dreadful service and irritating elevator music. But it’s hard to dislike Hana – the ‘gunkan special’ is out of this world. $$ Inaba (B5) ul. Nowogrodzka 84/86, tel. 22 622 5955.

Open 12:00-23:00 (kitchen closes at 22:00).

Located in an office building, this place is surprisingly quiet. The miso soup will have you licking your bowl and the sashimi and sushi sets are perfect. It's an old-timer, but it's still up there as a real contender. $$ Izumi Sushi (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17 (pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 22 825 7950, www.izumisushi.eu.

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RESTAURANTS Sakana Sushi Bar (D2, A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7 tel. 22 636 0055; ul. Moliera 4/6, tel. 22 826 5958, www.sakana.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. If there was one winner in the sushi wars of the noughties, it was Sakana. Many claim it’s the best in the city, a stand that’s hard to dispute. Practice nimble chopstick moves among other aficionados while sushi rolls sail by on tiny, little boats. $$ Sushi Club ul. Stawki 3, tel. 22 114 1414. Open 12:0023:00. A couple of dining rooms to choose from, including one found in a restorative salt cave. The lack of English on the menu may leave you bamboo-zled, but the overall quality is rewarding. We keep coming back for the

salmon nigri and tuna hosomaki. $$ Sushi Zushi (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 420 3373, www.sushizushi.pl. Open Mon-Thur 12:0023:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-03:00; Sun 13:00-22:00.

The No. 1 ex-pat choice, so it seems, with a front cover crowd who could model for Elle. Survey the slicing skills of the sushi chefs from stools by the moat, and don’t shy away from their more creative inventions – find fish, fruit and cheese inside their Class A rolls. $$ Tomo (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2344, www.tomo.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Excellent.

While Warsaw’s other sushi stops gather cobwebs Tomo packs out each night – that should say enough. With the maki, sushi and sashimi bobbing past on wooden platters, this place aims for fast, maximum turnover without ever making the diner feel second best. $$

JEWISH

Insider Pick Superiore ul. Piękna 28/34, tel. 506 404 059, www.superiorewinebar.pl.

Mon-Sun 12:00-10:00.

M

y wife and I passed this restaurant when it was a set for Przepis Na Życie, a television show on TVN. After it opened as Superiore, we observed a constant stream of people inside and decided to give it a try. We went on an early Saturday evening to avoid any crowds and once in noticed right away that this is not your usual restaurant or bistro, rather a hybrid wine shop, deli and restaurant.

After we chose our table the waitress pointed out the big black-

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Pod Samsonem (C1) ul. Freta 3/5, tel 22 832 1788, www.podsamsonem.pl. Open 10:00-23:00.

Operating since the 1950s – crazy when you think about it. This is the place for an ordinary meal in an ordinary space. The menu mixes aspects of Polish and Jewish cooking, and fails to do a good job of either. Entertainment is provided by the staff: find them frequently at war with the people they serve. $ Rambam ul. Grzybowska 4, tel. 22 243 2693, www.rambamrestaurant.pl. Open Sun-Fri 11:30-23:00. Kosher-certified, though by no means the exclusive domain of the Israeli coachloads who tour the district. A chic look with Middle Eastern accents is paired off with exotic dishes that include a lamb burger with red onion chutney and mint sauce. $$

LATIN Aioli (D3) ul. Świętokrzyska 18, tel. 22 290 1020,

board next to the door with the choices scribbled on. When I asked for the wine menu, I was told to stand for a second time and invited to hunt around for our own bottle. At first I felt awkward leaving the table – the feeling you get when you make a speech in front of a crowd – but soon began to enjoy walking about, checking out the wine labels. The price range was very fair, but since I wanted to get back to my ‘date’ promptly I asked the owner, who seemed to be helping other diners, what he would recommend for our meal. He picked out a Sardinian white wine, Aragosta for zł. 30, a nice choice, and one which made me feel like he was thinking more about our dining experience than his cash till.

The wine was cold and crisp, and the standard was perfectly matched by the food. We started with a lamb carpaccio and a spinach salad with walnuts, blue cheese, pears and balsamic dressing. For mains, my wife went for the linguine with mussels, while I opted for pasta carbonara.

All of it was delicious. When the owner returned to check in with us our praise was genuine and sincere. “Try the veal pasta next time,” he urged, telling us it’s become something of his best-selling dish.

And we most certainly shall return, again keeping to early bird times – true to our plan, the restaurant started filling up on our last bite, with a lovers quarrel breaking out in true dramarama: not unlike the TV shows once filmed on this site. (KD)

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Open 12:00-23:00 or last guest. Izumi’s décor is a mix between modern design and Japanese style, which means it’s easy on the eyes but lean enough for you to concentrate on the yummy food. Plus, it’s a major spot for celeb-spotting in the city. $$

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Blue Cactus (E8) ul. Zajączkowska 11, tel. 22 851 2323, www.bluecactus.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:0023:00; Sat 9:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00.

A real veteran, the Blue Cactus has taken some knocks recently: our last visit was a calamity. But aware of the decline top brass have moved fast to put out the fire. Word on the street reckons a new Californian chef has put it back firmly on track – we’ll be back anytime soon. $$

Casa Pablo (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5A, tel. 22 324 5782. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-last guest; Sun 12:00-18:00. Set to the flank of a glinting office building, Casa Pablo touts an interesting design composed

of tartan colors, upturned wine crates and a mirror that we’re told is over a century old.

But if you think that’s interesting, then take a look at the menu. Modeled round the ‘creative Spanish’ movement, dishes include scallop carpaccio with foie gras, and a duck breast burger with Mahon cheese, raspberry ketchup and truffle sauce. Servings are small and precise, but even so, we like what we see. $$

www.aioli-cantine.com. Open 9:00-last guest.

A jaunty Mediterranean space with hanging meats and long communal tables, Aioli has a decent offer of sandwiches, breakfasts, pastas and burgers. The mango-turkey burger is worth your consideration. $$

Carmona ul. K. Chodkiewicza 3, tel. 22 414 19 19, www. carmona.pl. Open 11:00-22:00. Set in an increasingly happening section of new money Mokotów, find the daily tapas chalked up on a blackboard inside a modern interior featuring top-to-bottom windows and industrial touches hanging overhead. They’ve got the tapas down to a tee. $$

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Dos Tacos (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, tel. 22 243 4618,

www.dostacos.pl. Open 11:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-24:00. Adorned with Aztec murals and cartoonish finishes, cheerful Dos Tacos belies its office block location. With an increasing amount of American custom, some have even gone as far as to call it Warsaw’s best Mexican.

Either way, the burritos are grand and the sauces peerless: beginners should order the salsa set, a great mix that ranges from tasty to volcanic. $ El Popo (C2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 2340.

Open daily 12:00-24:00. The food is consistently inconsistent. Great guacamole, lovely margaritas and pleasant waitstaff. But that’s about it. $$

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The Mexican (D1) ul. Podwale 29, tel. 22 635 3232, www.mexican.pl. With its babbling fountain and courtyard location The Mexican looks great. It’s a shame the same enthusiasm can’t be applied to the food. No matter what your order, anticipate mysterious gloop and lots of mashed cabbage. $$

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RESTAURANTS Home Delivery Delivero www.delivero.pl Here’s the score: enter your postcode, then wait for the computer to kick into action and spit out the restaurants covered in your delivery zone. In general, the restaurants now err to the side of pizza and sushi choices. Internet ordering only, with no English language option.

Dominos Multiple locations, tel. 22 209 0000, www.dominospizza.pl. Open 10:00-23:00. They’re back! Years after shutting shop the Dominos crew return to Warsaw, and this time they’re better than ever. It’s strictly takeaway/delivery only (unless you count the stand-up table outside), but these guys get listed for what amounts to the best delivered pizza in the history of Poland.

Pizza Portal www.pizzaportal.pl Nationwide service and similar to Delivero: tap in your postcode then wait for a list of choices to crunk out of the machine. As the name suggests, pizza is the forte, though there are also a heavy selection of randoms – kebabs, sushi, pierogi. 24hr pizza delivery options also available.

Room Service tel. 22 651 9003, www.roomservice.pl.

Deliver to over fifty restaurants under their umbrella, and can also turn their hand to delivering wine, beverages and flowers.

Web and phone orders taken in English and Polish, with delivery charges tagged between zł. 13 to zł. 25. Find venues like Blue Cactus, Le Cedre, Namaste, Sense, Sushi Zushi, Tomo and The Warsaw Tortilla Factory.

Royal Menu tel. 22 244 2121, www.royalmenu.pl.

Phone and internet delivery options, plus English language website and English speaking telpehone operators. Min. order of 50zł, with delivery charges ranging from 10zł to 24zł (Warsaw outskirts). Credit cards accepted for orders of 80zł plus.

Restaurants covered by this mob inc. players such as India Curry, Na Zielnej, Osteria, Papaya and Sakana.

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Ole Tapas ul. Bracka 2, tel. 519 875 767, www.ole-restaurant.pl. Open 12:00-23:00.

A dual level wine bar and restaurant with a modern spirit and a Flamenco vibe. Don’t let the name fool you: while the tapas are good, it’s the steak most people come for.

Choice here includes aged Spanish beef and Kobe cow. $$ Pico Cuadro (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 81, tel. 22 826 1524, www.picocuadro.pl. Open 10:00-23:00.

When it comes to their excellent beef manager Francisco gives credit to both the Argentinean origin of his selections and the knowledgeable hand of his chef who spent twelve years cooking in Spain. But best is dessert – a divine chocolate mousse torte on a delicate cookie crust made in house. Not too sweet, not too thick, just right! Although not as free with foreign flavors or combinations as it could be, it remains one to watch. $$

MIDDLE EASTERN Le Cedre (F1) Al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166, www.lecedre.pl.

Open daily 11:00-23:00. With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops. $$ Le Cedre 84 (B3) Al. Solidarności 84, tel. 22 618 8999, www.lecedre.pl. Open 11:00-23:00.

Legendary Le Cedre have a new venture, and this one looks even better than the original over the river. Deep plum colors work well inside, and we recommend turning up with a group of friends and splitting the Baalbak (six cold starters) or Byblos (six hot starters) menu. Aside from a candid A-Z of this cuisine, it’s a great opportunity to cover the tables with fancy little plates before causing a right mess amongst you as you share and share alike. $$ Sokotra (D5) ul. Wilcza 27, tel. 22 270 2766. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Sat 11:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-21:00.

Just what you didn’t expect – a restaurant specializing in the food of Yemen. Featuring lots of spicy meat dishes, and a few Indian-style offerings as well, here’s a fantastic spot that arouses curiosity and taste buds alike. The interiors are snug and pleasant, and not short on surprises – e.g. a concrete telephone pole adorned with potted plants. $$

POLISH Ale Gloria (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7080, www.alegloria.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. Who said romance was dead? Here wedding white colors are fused with a strawberry motif inside this gourmet fave. Keeping patrons returning are aromatic dishes with a contemporary twist – try the duck in rose sauce. $$$ Amber Room at the Sobański Palace (E5)

Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, www.kprb.pl/amber. Open Mon-Fri 12:0022:00; Sat 12:00-22:30; Sun 12:00-20:00.

The Amber Room is, indeed, a bit of a treasure.

Chef Robert Skubisz has excelled himself in creating a menu that injects upmarket Polish dishes with contemporary flair. Set inside a majestic mansion, the recommendation they’ve received from Michelin is justly deserved. $$$ Atelier Amaro (E6) ul. Agrykola 1, tel. 22 628 5747, www.aterlieramaro.pl. Open 12:00-15:00; 18:00-22:30. The recipient of Poland’s first Michelin star, Atelier has no rival – this is the best restaurant in the country, bar none. Find a tasting menu of slow food enhanced by modern techniques (e.g. blasts of nitrogen), with courses interspersed by occasionally bizarre molecular interludes (aloe leaves, twigs, etc.). Don’t miss the bespoke vodka menu, either. It’s an extraordinary dining experience, and one which confirms the growing cult of chef Wojciech Amaro.

BEST Reservations mandatory. $$$ WAWA 2012 “Contemporary Polish” Winner, New Restaurant” Winner, “Best Chef” Winner Bazyliszek (D1) Rynek Starego Miasto 1/3, tel. 22 831 1841, www.bazyliszek.waw.pl. Open 11:00-24:00.

Some parts of Bazyliszek hark to its years as a stately, stuffy restaurant. Now though it’s more earthy, with Jurassic portions of meaty, lardy food best consumed with one liter beers. The Rynek location and festive atmosphere account for its popularity more

than anything that comes from the kitchen. $ Belvedere Restaurant (F8) ul. Agrykoli 1, (entrance from ul. Parkowa), tel. 22 558 6700, www.belvedere.com.pl.

Open daily 12:00-last guest. Set in an atmospheric greenhouse, known as the ‘New Orangery’ in the Royal Łazienki Park, this landmark fine dining establishment features renditions of Polish, European and Nouvelle Cuisine, within elegant red, gold and black interiors. $$$ Biała Gęś (F8) ul. Belwederska 18A, tel. 22 840 5060, www.bialages.pl. Open 12:00-last guest.

All the props and staff of its predecessor (Tradycja Polska) are present, with the conspicuous add-on being flocks of white geese. And indeed, goose is the big draw here – these guys can fix you a whole bird if you book in advance (zł. 460 for four). As can be said of all places bearing Magda Gessler’s initials, the desserts are something else. $$$ Bistro Warszawa (B1) ul. Jezuicka 1, tel. 22 635 3769, www.bistrowarszawa.pl. Open 12:00-24:00.

The menu cites pre-war recipe books as its influence, and on it you’ll find such dishes as goose in thyme sauce with pear and zucchini.

The interiors are strictly contemporary though, with vanilla colored furnishings, wine racks and walls papered with hundreds of theater scripts and book pages. Regular jazz performances draw crowds from across the city. $$ Chłopskie Jadło (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1717; ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, tel. 22 827 0351.

A chain enterprise designed to mimic a peasant inn, what with all the clunky pots and rustic supplements. And if it’s farmers fare you’re after then the food isn’t bad either, with thick, lumpy servings of countryside classics. $ Delicja Polska (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 45, tel. 22 826 4770, www.delicjapolska.pl.

Open daily 12:00-last guest. It’s one of those few places where the food is fabulous, service efficient and discreet and the interior reminiscent of a fairytale dining room. $$ Dom Polski (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 2432, www.restauracjadompolski.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. Built for moments when nothing but the best will do. Prices are pre-

mium, but this piece of high society features an aristocratic temperament and fine Polish cuisine served with an elegant flourish. $$$ Folk Gospoda (B3) ul. Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605, www.folkgospoda.pl. Open 12:00-midnight.

The seminal Polish village experience is recreated in Folk Gospoda, a simple, rustic restaurant who put a stress on using locally sourced produce and homemade condiments like bread and preserves. Clad in wood and farmyard debris, the menu is a hefty collection of pierogi, game and macho meaty fare. Look no further if you want authentic, big hearted food the way it’s served up in the mountains and down in the villages. $$ Inn Under the Red Hog (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 22 850 3144, www.czerwonywieprz.pl. Open daily 12:0024:00. Recently voted as one of the 25 most interesting restaurants in the world! And we’re not surprised – bathed in red banners and propaganda paintings, the Red Hog is your one stop shop for some socialist socializing: while Marx and Co. never actually ate here (as their menu claims), lads like Bruce Willis and Lennox Lewis have. The menu is comically split between dishes for the proletariat and for dignitaries, and is an experience in itself. $$

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Kameralna ul. Foksal 11, tel. 887 878 731. Open 12:00-24:00. Tiles, pillars and posts define Kameralna, a new venture settled on the site of a historic restaurant once frequented by the greats of the Polish arts. Featuring its own brewery, this informal behemoth has a standard menu that harks to the PRL years: herrings, dumplings, schnitzel. We’ll be there soon for a full report.

REDISCOVER PIĘKNA BISTRO ON PIĘKNA 20!

Pristine interiors juxtapose steel and concrete against dark, warm woods and a burning fireplace lending our venue an amazing character.

Blending modernity and style, the interiors are reflected by an international menu, a carefully selected wine list and beautiful music.

Come by in the morning for hot baguettes and fresh coffee, a laid back lunch, or in the evening, when lights dim and the mood slows down.

For years Piękna Bistro has been a popular jazz spot, and at our concerts you’ll find young talents and celebrities, guaranteeing unforgettable memories.

Bistro Piękna ul. Piękna 20 Tel. 22 627 4151 piekna@jazzone.pl, www.jazzone.pl

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Karpielówka ul. Indiry Gandhi 11, tel. 22 644 85 10. Open 12:00-last guest. Reminiscent of a mountain karczma this restaurant prides itself on a thorough offer of simple, traditional food inside lively cabin-style interiors. The hefty portions are best twinned with lashings of icy vodka.$$

Kuchnia Funkcjonalna ul. Jakubowska 16 (enter from ul. Estońska), tel. 512 893 898. Open 11:00-23:00. Snuck inside one of Saska’s definitive modernist

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RESTAURANTS buildings, the opening of Kuchnia has made slow food accessible to all wallets. Venison from the Bieszczady Mountains, dairy products from Jersey cattle milk, and the use of goose fat instead of butter are just a few noteworthy characteristics; the frequently changing menu reflects the commitment to nature. The ascetic design is softened by a cast-iron stove and moody lighting, giving the restaurant a warm, spring glow. $$

12:00-last guest. Touting a refined, baronial setting, Rożana has starchy white linen, floral pieces and flickering candles, giving off plenty of classic charm in the best possible taste. With indulgent mains such as farmhouse duck with apple and cranberry, or saddle of venison with homemade pickle, this is a Polish dining extravaganza BEST served from the top table. $$ WAWA 2012 “Polish with Style” Winner

Podwale Piwna Kompania (D2) ul. Podwale 25, tel. 22 635-6314, www.podwale25.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-01:00; Sun 12:00-01:00. Set through a courtyard that replicates a Mitteleuropa square, Podwale has a beer hall atmosphere that’s further exaggerated when mountain bands circulate. Food is of average standard and served in portions that are obscene – finishing the wooden platters can be seriously traumatic. Go there for the experience, if nothing else. $

Rialto’s Restaurant (D5) ul. Wilcza 73 (Rialto Boutique Hotel), tel. 22 584 8771. Open Mon-Fri 6:30-22:30; Sat-Sun 7:00-22:30. Bathed in toffee and vanilla hues, the restaurant in this Art Deco hotel has a solid claim as one of the top meals around. The pan-seared duck breast with honey pumpkin and figs is every bit as inspired as it sounds. $$$

Restauracja Pod Gigantami (E5) Al. Ujadowskie 24, tel. 22 629 2312, www.podgigantami.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Despite being judged worthy of a recommendation by the scouts at Michelin, Pod Gigantami divides local opinion; it’s not just the Insider that’s found the food only satisfactory. But the wine list impresses, as do the painfully ornate turn-of-the-century interiors. $$$

U Fukiera (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 27 (Old Town Market Square), tel. 22 831 1013, www.ufukiera.pl. Open 12:00-last guest.

This townhouse has 500 years of history behind it, during which time bills have been settled by princes and presidents, models and musicians. Reminiscent of a stately home, this maze of enticing alcoves wins for an extravagant menu of locally sourced game. $$$

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U Kucharzy (D3) ul. Ossolińskich 7, tel. 22 826 7936, www.gessler.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. You’re in the thick of the action here, with dining

Restauracja Polska “Różana” (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 22 848 1225, www.restauracjarozana.com.pl. Open

An Exceptional Butcher shop!!!

100% fresh Polish Angus, Hereford and Limousine beef Quality lamb and veal Seasoned steak: New York, rib-eye, T-bone, filet mignon...

We look forward to seeing you!

Oś. Marina Mokotów ul. Przejazd 4 (next to the bank) Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00; Sat 9:00-14:00 For telephone orders: 797 866 131

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WARSAW INSIDER | MAY 2013

conducted in the former kitchen of the historic Hotel Europejski – once the most luxurious hotel in the Tsarist Empire. The atmosphere is one of orchestrated chaos, and the chefs love a bit of showmanship: expect Ramsay-style tantrums sometimes inches from your face. The steak tartar is rated across town, though standards have slipped considerably in recent times. $$ BEST WAWA 2012 “Welcome to Poland” Winner

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U Szwejka (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1710, www.uszwejka.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-24:00. Named after fictional Czech soldier Szwejk, the food here would certainly appear to the tubby man himself. Bestowed with Prague street signs, the food is a hardy, meaty affair, and arrives in XXXL portions. The price to quantity (Note: not quality) ratio guarantees queues (yes, queues) that stretch out on the street every weekend. $$

Zapiecek Locations inc. ul. Nowy Świat 64, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, ul. Podwale 1, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska 13, ul. Wańkowicza 1, www.zapiecek.eu. Open 11:00-22:00. Seven Warsaw locales, with our favorite found in the vaulted passages of Świętojańska. The menu is highly traditional, with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’. It’s for the pierogi though for which they’re famous; find approx. fifty types delivered by servers dressed like saucy country maids. $

SCANDINAVIAN Nabo ul. Zakręt 8, tel. 22 842 0256.

Open Mon-Fri: 8:00-21:30; Sat-Sun 9:00-21:30. The décor is, we’re told, typical Danish cafe – bold open windows, simple lines, high shelves filled with books and games on the table. But what is Danish food? There’s Old Danish on the menu: meatballs and open face sandwiches with meat and fish in various textural configurations and then there’s New Danish: an emerging trend towards fresh, seasonal food (no microwave oven at Nabo), with locally sourced and innovatively concocted BEST WAWA ingredients. Fantastic. $$ 2012 “Most Kid Friendly Restaurant” Winner

SPECIALTY FOOD SHOPS Bio Bazar ul. Żelazna 51/53, tel. 22 318 8855, www.biobazar.org.pl. Open Sat 8:00-17:00.

Fruit and veg in the first warehouse, some of it imported from as far as Argentina. In the second warehouse, find organic cheese varieties from sheep and goats, as well as import brands from Italy, France and the Netherlands.

British Shop ul. Emilii Plater 8, tel. 692 240 804.

British food and beverages inc. cider, bacon, sausages, gluten free ready meals, confectionary etc. Run by the same team who once operated Fish & Chips on Koszykowa, the offer has now expanded to cover non-food items inc. Royal Wedding souvenirs, England football paraphernalia etc.

Food & Joy ul. Nowy Świat 7, www.foodandjoy.eu. Open Mon-Sat 9:00-20:00; Sun 10:00-17:00. A new, upmarket deli chain from the same team behind Krakowski Kredens and Alma.

Kuchnie Świata Various locations, www.kuchnieswiata.com. pl. The first stop for most ex-pats, with an offer that includes food and drinks from across the globe. The choice is vast. Internet ordering now also available.

La Fromagerie ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 465 2324, www.lafromagerie.pl. Open Mon-Thur 9:0020:00; Fri 9:00-21:00; Sat 10:00-19:00; Sun 11:30-16:00. Top quality cheeses produced by small, artisan producers from England, the major regions of France as well as several other countries. Also, grourmet specialities like Italian parma ham, Spanish chorizo, French sausages, and hard-to-find luxury brands from France, Italy, Greece and more.

Marks & Spencer Various locations inc. DT Wars & Sawa, ul. Marszałkowska 104/122, tel. 22 551 7553, www.marks-and-spencer.com.pl.

Visit the Marszałkowska location to take advantage of the on-site bakery, but visit early as choice diminishes the later it gets.

Aside from baked goods, find an excellent frozen food section, as well as an off-license, tinned goods, ready meals, confectionary and preserves.

Namaste India ul. Nowogrodzka 15, tel. 22 357 0939.

Open Mon-Sat 11:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-22:00.

Not just an excellent take-away, but also a small deli selling herbs and spices, ready meals, drinks and even Indian toiletries.

Ostra Kuchnia www.ostrakuchnia.pl. A superb internet shop retailing quite literally the hottest sauces known to man: brands include Blair’s, Dave’s, El Yucateco, Mad Dog, Melinda’s and many more besides. Also sell jalapenos, chili peppers, salsas and pastes. Polish-only website, but easy to navigate and superb customer service.

Piccola Italia & Mediterraneo Locations on ul. Emili Plater 47, ul. Egejska 17, Al. KEN 85. Over 1,700 products, inc. cheeses from Lombardy, coffee from Florence and Olives from Puglia. And not just Italian: find a

POLISH DELICACIES: - Home-made bread - Polish style duck from the oven - Polish fish - Polish seasoned beef steaks ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 45 00-071 Warszawa tel. 22 826 47 70 info@delicjapolska.pl www.delicjapolska.pl

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RESTAURANTS range of foods from both Spain and France.

BEST WAWA 2012 “Gourmet Grocery” Winner

The raw pizza is better than anything you get at Domino’s, and the zucchini lasagna a brilliant surprise. Great list of smoothies, as well. $

Polna Market ul. Polna 13, Open Mon-Fri 7:00-19:00, Sat 7:00-17:00. Known as ‘Warsaw’s Market’ during communism, this was the place to get treasured goods from the West. Find a couple of wine stores, an outstanding butcher, and a fab produce stand selling only the freshest vegetables, but at a cost.

Veg Deli ul. Radna 14, tel. 516 188 136. Open 12:0022:00. Rarely has rabbit food been so enticing.

Delicious soups, bagels, dals, salads and Joseph’s Culinary Studio suchlike are made with only the freshest local ul. Duchnicka 3, www.jospehseeletso.pl. ingredients. $ A familiar face from the TV, Botswanan born chef Joseph Seeletso marks a new VegeMiasto chapter of his career with the launch of ul. Chmielna 9A, tel . 607 031 114. his own culinary academy. Tailor-made Open 12:00-21:00; Sun 12:00-18:00. A giant courses for individuals and groups are held red mural flags VegeMiasto, making it imposin a custom-designed kitchen, and include sible to miss. Acting as flypaper cookery classes, wine tasting, dinner and for student types, the menu is a vegan, largely the chance to learn a stack of secrets from gluten-free affair. Even staunch meat eaters the man himself. should visit for the smoothies and shakes. $ Scheller Academy ul. Międzynarodowa 68, tel. 22 626 80 92, COOKING SCHOOLS www.schelleracademy.pl. Instantly recognizable by his beret and whiskers, Swiss-born Cook Up Studio Kurt Scheller invites guests to his Saska Kępa ul. Racławicka 99 (Fort Mokotów), kitchen for lessons aimed at all levels of tel. 22 212 89 76, www.cookup.pl. Workshops competency.

WHOLE FOODS Surya (C1) ul. Wałowa 3, tel. 22 635 81 39, www.restauracja-surya.pl. Open Tue-Sat 12:00-22:00. Found down in a former nuclear shelter this basement restaurant looks like a hobbit’s hideout, with lots of clunky timber doors leading down mysterious passages.

Everything served is raw, and on the occasions they do use an oven it’s maintained under 42°C to keep all nutrients and enzymes alive.

in a gorgeous cooking studio located in a redbrick fortress. Themes from March included Swedish cooking (led by the Swedish Embassy chef), knife skills and soup, with lessons culminating in eating all that hard work.

Karpielówka Restaurant

Our name comes from an area in Zakopane, and in our restaurant you can feel the air and the atmosphere of the Tatra Mountains.

With our original highlander décor and the climate of an outlaw’s cottage, it’s the perfect place to dine on traditional dishes including our specials: dumplings, knuckle baked with onion, dishes with oscypek cheese and much more.

We can organize wedding dinners, conferences and banquets, as well as picnics with BBQ and bonfire. Check our lunch menu, our delivery service and catering options. ul. Indiry Gandhi 11, tel. 22 644 85 10 | Imielin Metro Station, close to Multikino; City Hall Ursynów; 5 minute walk towards St. Thomas the Apostle Church | Open 12:00-last guest. | Reservations: +48 22-644-85-10 or karpielowka@home.pl www.karpielowka.com.pl | Check our Facebook page

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Reviews: la LUSH 55 / Plus:

* 3 updates

CAFÉS & WINE BARS CAFES 55 / WINE BARS 57

KEY

Insider’s Pick

Insider writers do not accept any form of payment in return for favorable reviews.

BOW 2012 Winner...........

Breakfast menu .............

Business meetings..........

Child friendly...................

Delivery.............................

Free wifi..............................

Map location pg. 78 ...... (A1) Romantic..........................

Vegetarian friendly...........

CAFÉS Antrakt (D3) pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 22 827 6411.

Open daily 12:00-last guest. Intellectuals and playwrights gather in Antrakt, a quirky cafe that groans with antiques and artwork.

The presence of the theater next door keeps the IQ level high.

La LUSH ul. Senatorska 24. Open Mon-Fri 6:00-18:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-18:00.

T

PHOTOGRAPH BY KAROLINA KALINOWSKA

he moment I entered, I knew I would love it: a hasty opinion steadily reinforced by my lush experience. The idea for La LUSH is said to have been born in a certain park in Warsaw, the Dolina Szwajcarska. And it appears that the founders used the many qualities of this charming park as guidance – delightful, but inconspicuous and sure to become a favorite once found. La LUSH, with its bright interiors and scrumptious (nb: Thesaurus. com tells me it’s even a synonym for ‘lush’) smells of coffee and fresh bread, and is tucked away between pl. Teatralny and pl. Bankowy – so an ideal stop during a May walk around Warsaw’s loveliest area.

Here, emphasis is placed on the best products – something which may give La LUSH an edge over your typical café. They may not bake their bread themselves but it is sourced very locally, from Vincent. Yes, that tiny space on Nowy Świat where you probably were never able to grab a seat and had to savor their bread standing. Needless to say, their bread-based fare is lovely; I personally loved the 4-cheese grilled sandwich. Marmalades are hand-made, and for sale too, and coffee beans roasted just for them. This café is not only hungry-adult-friendly but also welcomes (small) pets and children, providing the latter with smoothies either in yellow (banana) or pink (strawberry). Not many cafés tend to think of their non-coffee-drinking guests.

Open from 8 a.m until 6 p.m., it closes early by Warsaw’s standards, but the times prove quite sufficient considering the menu, which is more appropriate for a French-style breakfast or lunch. And this can be had either at the communal table or a solitary one, with a views of young artists’ paintings on the walls or the National Opera outside. If you happen to live in the area or are in a hurry, grab a pastry and a coffee to go. But you might as well savor the bread from Vincent sitting down. (KK)

Aroma ul. Krucza 6, tel. 22 376 5475, www.aromaespressobar.pl. Open 7:0022:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-20:00. An attractive Israeli owned spot with white painted walls and a busy café atmosphere – hissing coffee contraptions and lively sounds. The sandwiches are nice enough, but we like this place for their other offerings: cinnamon twisters, Belgian waffles and chocolate croissants.

Blikle (D3) ul. Nowy Świat 33, tel. 22 826 6619, www.blikle.pl. All-day breakfast: Mon-Sat 9:00-last guest, Sun 10:00-last guest.

There’s a cultured, pre-war look to Blikle, a proud cafe with a 100 year history. Famous former clients include Charles de Gaulle who had a fondness for their donuts.

Bubbleology ul. Chmielna 26, www.bubbleology.pl.

Open 11:00-23:00. Looking like a 26th century version of Willy Wonka’s factory (psychedelic colors, Japanese lettering, and doors marked Top Secret), this place is no ordinary café. But that’s down to the drinks, rather than the décor. ‘Bubble Tea’ is the beverage here, with an arsenal of fruit flavors made by zany lab coated staff.

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CAFÉS & WINE BARS Café 6/12 (E5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 622 5333, www.612.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-23:00.

Famous for dispensing complicated fruit and vegetable smoothies, 6/12 have even introduced a full diet plan: pop-by for breakfast, then grab a goodie bag packed with balanced meals and snacks for the day ahead. Being healthy has never tasted better.

Or looked better for that matter; still very much the choice haunt for the in-team.

Café Lorentz Al. Jerozolimskie 3. Open Mon 10:00-20:00; Tue-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00. Set at the front of the National Museum this place has a nice indoor area with high ceilings and minimalist decorations and a green outdoor area populated by wickers chairs and hammocks. As is the rage in Warsaw, the menu is light, natural and healthy.

Café Próżna (C3) ul. Próżna 12, tel. 22 620 3257, www.cafeprozna.pl. Open Sun-Thur 10:0023:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00. Ignoring the fact that most of this street looks ready to fall down, the artsy-looking Próżna comes with a chic, ice white look, and a stack of hard-back tomes to compliment the homemade desserts. Even better at night, when soaked in the glow of dozens of candles.

Café Vincent (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. 22 828 0115.

Open daily 6:30-24:00. A must-stop, Cafe Vincent is your ultimate French connection: a bakery, pastry shop and bistro. It offers freshly baked treats from almond croissants to delicate brioches.

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Chłodna 25 (B3) ul. Chłodna 25, tel. 22 620 2413, www.chlodna25.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 10:00-last guest. Known for its anti-establishment attitude, Warsaw’s original cult café bar has battleship colors and the welcome hustle all good cafes have: clattery board games, creaking floorboards, whistling kettles and dogs going woof. But after years of locking horns with the residents upstairs, the writing is on the wall. According to the owner, you’ll be lucky to see C25 long after June.

Christian’s Bakerhouse ul. Książęca 6, tel. 22 628 6345. Open Mon-Fri 7:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-23:00. A top quality bakery/café/restaurant owned by celebrity

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chef Krystian Zalejski. Fixed up in rustic style, the ever changing menu round at Christian’s is mostly filled with Italian staples – but with a twist. Think pappardelle with roasted duck slices and rosemary.

Coffee Karma (D6) pl. Zbawiciela 3/5, tel. 22 875 8709, www.coffeekarma.eu. Open Mon-Fri 7:3022:00; Sat 9:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-22:00.

Order a smoothie, switch off the phone, open the book – it’s that sort of place. Concerts and art shows figure in their repertoire, as does rather good coffee. But to see Coffee Karma at her best, wait for the spring terrace.

Croque Madame (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 41, tel. 793 794 318. Open 8:00-22:00. A French-themed charmer with rough, white painted brickwork, distressed wooden furniture and lots of eccentric bric-a-brac to keep an eye out for. Dealing out fresh baguettes and pastries, the whole boulangerie/café concept is excellently executed.

Dziurka od Klucza (E3) ul. Radna 22 881 8677. Open Mon-Sun 12:0021:00. Dziurka serves an ambiguous role as a bar, restaurant and cafe. Curious doors sit embedded on the wall, as if waiting to be opened by the keys that hang on the tree outside.

Flowers, plant pots and violet splashes give it a cheerful spin, while the Italian inspired menu isn’t short on creative flair.

Fawory ul. Mickiewicza 21. Open 10:00-22:00. An intimate neighborhood cafe that comes complete with mugs that announce: “Fresh Coffee Tastes Betters”. You bet it does. The smoothies and regional beers are even better though, and come served inside a white interior splashed with an awesome mural.

Green Caffe Nero Many locations inc. Pl. Konstytucji 1, www. greencaffenero.pl. The British Nero chain have hooked up with the Green Coffee phenomena, with Green Caffe Nero the result of the unlikely fusion. Expect quality Italian blends, and fresh made-on-the-day food across the city.

Kafka Café (E3) ul. Oboźna 3, tel.22 826 0822, www.kawiarnia-kafka.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00. Floor-toceiling glass walls, retro checkered floor tiles and rows of pre-loved books lining shelves characterize this café hotspot. They serve

salads, pastas and pancakes and tote plenty of “free” factors: free wi-fi, smoke-free interiors and attitude-free waitresses.

KluboKawiarnia Towarzyska ul. Zwycięzców 49, www.klubokawiarnia.net.

Open 9:00-last guest. Urban cool penetrates Saska. With an interior modeled by John Strumiłło, this 50s pavilion has an ascetic design defined by polar white interiors.

Contrast is provided downstairs, with deep magenta walls and retro armchairs. Concerts, screenings and art happenings have launched it into local conscience.

La Vanille (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 578 2233, www.lavanille.pl. Open 8:00-20:00. In much the same way Charlotte is so much more than a bakery, La Vanille is definitely more than your standard confectioners.

Thick with the scent of icing sugar, it looks sharp and sleek with glossy lifestyle mags tossed on battleship grey sofas. But it’s the counter that acts as a magnetic force, and it’s here you’ll find fantastic cupcakes of all color and flavor spread out in precise military formation.

Loft Café (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 608 608 488, www.cafeloft. pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-22:00. Brickwork and aquariums dominate Loft, while lighting is courtesy of strings of bubbles that dangle from the ceiling. The loud and lairy design befits the neon-lit exteriors. Clearly, plenty of people like it, we’re more ambivalent.

Magiel Café ul. Stępińska 2, tel. 22 841 0016, www.magielcafe.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:0022:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. Situated in a former laundrette, sweet looking Magiel comes crowded with rusting mangles and vintage posters advertising soaps and powders.

Featuring some delicious homemade meals inspired by both the Polish and Mediterranean spirit, this place also gets noted for estoreric Polish beers, as well as a series of French wines sourced from private vineyards.

Mały Wojtek (D4) ul. Bracka 20, tel. 791 520 503. Open Mon-Fri 11:30-4:00; Sat-Sun 14:00-4:00. A charming courtyard number with hand painted floor tiles, white brickwork and imaginative black and white lights that dangle overhead. In the afternoon it effects the busy air of a European café; at night, more of a raucous local shot bar.

Mam Ochotę ul. Grójecka 75, tel. 22 667 8280, mamochote.blogspot.com. Open 9:00-24:00. A hip haven in an upcoming area this café gets cool concerts and other such events. And unlike most cafés in its genre, you don’t get the impression you’ll catch fleas from the seats.

Attractive light woods and guest artwork keep this place looking fresh and fun.

Ministerstwo Kawy ul. Marszałkowska 27/35, tel. 512 091 840, www.ministerstwokawy.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00. Were it not for the fact MK opened after voting had closed, you’d have bet your bottom zlot this would have romped home with our ‘best café’ award.

Decorated sparingly with white wall tiles and wooden floors, this newbie numbers some ace fruit drinks amongst its greater glories.

MiTo (D6) ul. Waryńskiego 28, tel. 2 629 0815, www.mito.art.pl. Open Mon-Fri 7:00-22:00; 9:00-23:00. Café, gallery, bookstore. Sure, we’ve seen that concept before, just not done in this style. Stark white backgrounds are offset by modern art, lending the place a Tate Modern feel.

Moments ul. Nowy Swiat 6/12, www.tastylife.pl.

Open Mon-Thu 7:30-22:00; Fri 7:30-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-22:00. A prime location in the ingenious construction of a two-storey glass prism under the Financial Center’s arcades. So forget the gloomy, dusty corners of Warsaw’s cafes and immerse yourself inside a sleek space bathed in light that comes streaming through all four walls.

Moments knows many incarnations and slides with ease between cosmopolitan cafe, modern eatery and communal wine bar. my’o’my (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8 (enter from Górskiego), www.myomy.pl. Open Mon 11:00-22:00; Tue-Thu 10:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-21:00. Slightly rustic in design, with flower-patterned pillows, wooden panels painted white and winding stairs that lead to a charming second floor.

The baked goods are courtesy of baker extraordinaire Zofia Różycka, and the rest of the food offer is pretty grand as well. Its popularity with Warsaw’s mid-20s set makes it occasionally claustrophobic.

*

Om Nom Nom ul. Lipowa 7A. Open 10:00-23:00. Looking

clean, clinical but strangely warming, Om Nom Nom specialize in their own ice cream lollies: all in cutesy designs and dipped in crunchy colorful toppings. The beer is just as good, with independent Polish brewers well represented.

A bright looking breakfast bar with pale woods and pot plants to offset any early morning trauma. The day’s breakfast sets are scrawled up on a blackboard, and usually involve a number of healthy living options to kicks start the day.

Petit Appetit (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 27, www.petitappetit.pl.

Open 6:30-23:30. Cartoon murals, brickwork and that must for the season – a communal table – all contribute to marking Petit Appetit as something of a winner. Their real success though is as a bakery: loaves, baguettes, pastries are produced to expert standard.

Socjal (E4) ul. Foksal 18, tel. 601 318 966. Open 9:00-4:00.

Looking raw, industrial and refreshingly ascetic, the principal feature of Socjal is the long communal table – who you end up talking to is down to the dice. There’s few better places to order the Prosecco and act oh so continental.

Piaskownica (E3) ul. Lipowa 7A. Open 9:00-last guest; Fri-Sat 11:00-last guest. During daylight it’s a coffee bar; come nightfall beer becomes the choice of the people. Popular with college kids, find announcements like ‘Tofu Attack’ chalked on the blackboards.

Sto900 (E3) ul. Solec 18/20, tel. 787 696 241.

Open 9:00-22:00; Fri 9:00-24:00; Sat 10:0024:00; Sun 10:00-22:00. A fabulous café/ restaurant with a spontaneous design that jumbles bricks and wood with mismatched furniture. From the outside, this place looks like the entrance to a squat, so be surprised to learn it’s not just the atmosphere that’s ace.

The menu changes daily, but usually involves commendable burgers (with a daring but successful addition of beetroot) alongside more unexpected dishes: e.g. eko-falafel.

Prosta Historia (H4) ul. Francuska 24, tel. 505 277 660. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:30; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:30. An attractive café decked with pale white colors, and steel lights overhead. Service can be frustrating, and some call the food overpriced, factors which are offset by a high street location: perfect for a spot of people watching.

Relaks ul. Puławska 48. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00; Sat 10:00-19:00; Sun 10:00-18:00. Delete Starbucks from memory: if you take your coffee seriously, then no-one does it better than this lot. Using a number of brewing methods, the baristas here are top of their trade, doing their stuff in a cool interior with a heavy retro accent.

Secret Life ul. Słowackiego 15/19. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-21:00. You might already be familiar with Secret Life of Things, a fab design store on the other end of town.

Now the same minds have expanded their offer to include this café, a delightful spot that opened in summer. The deckchairs outside may have gone but the hype lingers on: an eclectic design marries a Scandinavian look to an eccentric spirit, while unpasteurized beers, organic teas and a locally sourced menu do the rest. It’s a winner! Śniadaniownia ul. Dąbrowskiego 38, tel. 507 513 502.

Open 8:00-15:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-17:00.

Usiądź Sobie ul. Gen. Zajączka 8, tel. 502 555 128. Open 10:00-22:00. A crisp looking café with vintage antiques set against pristine white furnishings and shiny surfaces. The menu is health conscious, and even includes a calorie count next to the breakfast options.

Wars i Sawa (E3) ul. Dobra 14/16. Open Mon-Thu 10:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-1:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. Creaking floorboards, unfinished plastering and piles of books set the tone to this ‘culture café’.

It’s exactly what you’d expect of Powiśle, and the sort of stop best enjoyed on your own with a pot of tea, a dog-eared novel and your tightest skinny jeans.

Wiatraki Dwa ul. Kubusia Puchatka 8, tel. 502 686 121.

Open 10:00-21:00. A two floor café that looks and feels perfectly formed. Snuck away on Winnie the Pooh Street, Wiatraki has a sparing, modern design and a fresh, natural menu.

WINE BARS Ale Wino! (E5) ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 628 3830.

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CAFÉS & WINE BARS Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00. Covertly stashed inside a courtyard, that Ale Wino’s! neighbors include fashion Tsar Robert Kupisz announce this place as the frontline of cool – as if to qualify this, find furnishing by the celebrated design brains at Studio Rygalik. Stocked with wines from 16 countries, place your trust in sommelier Adrian Litkowicz for a taste of something special.

Cabernet ul. Woronicza 31, tel. 22 115 13 04, www. cabernet.net.pl. Open Mon-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-18:00.

Warsaw’s appetite for the grape shows no

sign of abating. The latest wine bar to hit the market has a warehouse look, a strong menu – with surprisingly modest prices – and a drinks selection that includes approximately 150 wines: most of which are available by the glass.

Charlotte (D6) pl. Zbawiciela, tel. 22 628 4459. Open MonFri 7:00-24:00; Sat 9:00-24:00; Sun 9:00-22:00. It matters not if you’re easily traumatized by the catwalk parade that is Charlotte. Open from seven on weekdays, it’s the place for a morning croissant. And if you’re armed with the latest Mac technology, all the better – join the other posers at the communal table. Located on Warsaw’s most happening roundabout, there’s no better place to indulge a hangover with a spot of eavesdropping than inside this boulangerie/wine bar.

Duchnicka Wine & Food Tucked away off center in a renovated factory, Duchnicka functions as a wine store, restaurant and an emphatically good wine bar – so good, in fact, it was the runaway winner in our annual awards. There’s over 700 wines to pick from, and you won’t go wrong placing faith in the sommelier, Rafał Kiś. BEST WAWA 2012 “Wine Bar” Winner Enoteka (C2) ul. Długa 23/25, tel. 22 635 5510, www.enotekapolska. pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-midnight; Sun 14:0022:00. Located just outside the Old Town, this minimalist wine bar is a great place for a date.

Wines from top European wine makers are impressive and the prices are very decent.

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Hoża by Mondovino ul. Hoża 25, tel. 603 778 275. Open a matter of hours before we hit the printers, so we’ve no report yet other than we’ve been told to expect big, big things from this café-resto-bar hybrid. So we hear, there’s an expert Argentinean chef at the helm – we can’t wait to see what he does with the grill.

Jung & Lecker (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 14, tel. 22 866 6749, www.prawdziwewina.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-18:00. J&L’s new wine bar on ul. Emilii Plater 14 offers minimalist, café-style chic. The shops’ wines are sourced directly from 15 wineries in Germany’s famed

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Pfalz, Rheinhessen, Rheingau and Mosel regions. The summer courtyard garden is a particular standout feature.

Mielżyński Wine Bar (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 636 8709, www.mielzynski.pl. Open daily 9:00-24:00 (kitchen closes at 23:00). Some call it the best wine bar in Warsaw, others the best in Poland.

Either way, this place hits the right notes with a wonderfully simple gourmet menu, old and new world wines and a chic warehouse design filled to bursting with crates and boxes.

WinKolekcja (E10) ul. Olkuska 8, tel. 22 646 8742, www.winkolekcja.pl. Open 11:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. You can’t pick your neighbors...

In WinKolekcja’s case, that means a kebab shop opposite and a bottle bank with a constant stream of street bums. But in spite of the curious location, this new wine bar/ store looks set to thrive; the wine choice is comprehensive, and the food excellent. The design has the routine look of a club class lounge area; even so, it’s a timely addition to an area not rich in options.

Winosfera (B3) ul. Chłodna 29/31. Lending a lift to a sad stretch of Chłodna is Winosfera, a huge wine bar with all the requisite crates and industrial fittings – there’s even a cinema. The upside is true fine dining, and a flawless wine selection.

Opened in Feb, it’s already become a much used Insider hangout.

Vinoteka 13 + Wine Bar (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18, tel. 22 492 7407, www.vinoteka13.pl. Open Mon-Sun 11:00-last guest. This premium wine shop and bar is tucked away in the beautiful Likus Concept Store. It sports a wide selection of fine wines from Italy, France, and Spain, along with some stronger spirits and Cuban cigars at a varied price range. Also serves a tasting menu of cheeses and deli meats. Żurawina (D5) ul. Żurawia 32, tel. 696 561 652. Open 12:0024:00. Lacking in intimacy, this large white room gets criticized for its jarring artwork and staffing blips – in the world of wine it’s important the customer can connect to the staff: here, we felt like we were joining the SS. But both food and wine score highly, and they’ve already won a staunchly loyal following. Get your week off to a galloping start and visit on ‘Jazz Monday’s’. You’ll be joining the most beautiful people in the city.

Reviews: PaństwoMiasto 59 / Plus:

* 3 updates

NIGHTLIFE

BARS & PUBS 59 / CLUBS 63 / GENTLEMAN’S CLUBS 64 / JAZZ CLUBS 64

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Insider’s Pick

Insider writers do not accept any form of payment in return for favorable reviews

BOW 2012 Winner...........

Food Served....................

Free wifi..............................

Live Music..........................

Map location pg. 78 ...... (A1) Romantic..........................

BARS & PUBS Bazar (F1) ul. Okrzei 22, tel. 508 321 264. Open 12:00-last guest. There’s Krusovice, Bernard and Staropramen on tap, and the Czech slant is lent added meat by a series of evenings held in cahoots with the Czech Cultural Centre – it’s during boozy disco nights the party spills into a shadowy cellar with light retro hints. On ground level its raw and industrial with asphalt colors and overhead pipes. You wouldn’t expect it, but the margaritas are smashing.

PaństwoMiasto ul. Andersa 29, tel. 22 400 9446, panstwomiasto.pl. Open 9:00-24:00.

PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEX WEBBER

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raditionally speaking, Muranów has offered little in the social stakes. Those of an older vintage will recall fondly the days of Jaś i Małgosia, but aside from that nocturnal outings in the area were limited to the scraggy bars propping up the peep shows of JPII. In short, there hasn’t been much of note in an area seemingly cut off from progress. With that considered, it’s no surprise PaństwoMiasto has landed on a cloud of local hype. But does it live up to it?

First impressions are not kind. Found in one of those colossal communist blocks emblematic of the district, you’ll know you’ve reached Państwo by the fairy lights cobwebbed around the skeletal trees. Summer can’t come soon enough, because right now this pot-holed street looks like Minsk under curfew. Neither do attitudes soften on entry: the overall design appears cold and cavernous, with stone floors, echoing acoustics and blank, boring color schemes. You might want to turn back and leave.

But to do so would be a mistake. That’s because for all of its latent failings, the people at Państwo have stumbled on a secret ingredient that makes it all work. Maybe it’s the beer selection, a mixed bag of approximately ten beers from Poland’s lesser known regions.

There’s decent food as well, a selection of sandwiches and cold cuts that are far better than they sound. And then there’s the chef’s corgi, a friendly little chap often found snuffling for hand-outs under the raised communal tables.

Mostly though, it’s the people that make the place. Scholastic in spirit, events here are seriously highbrow, and include political discussions, art sales and book readings. Now that’s not my usual cup of tea, least not on a Friday night, but there is a plus to all that – the fact that there’s a genuine academic spirit keeps it free of the faux intellectuals in hipster battlegrounds like Powiśle and pl. Zbawiciela – that lot of pretenders wouldn’t last a minute in here, which is just one more point that falls in Państwo’s favour. (AW)

Beirut (D5) ul. Poznańska 12. Open 12:00-last guest.

One of the hits of 2012, Beirut has walls dusted with cult album covers, documentary film posters and some token pics of military hardware (pointing at Tel Aviv Cafe across the road). Androgynous staff deal out Lithuanian beer and Lebanese starters from behind a sandbag bar in this standout café-bar.

The British Bulldog (D4) ul. Krucza 51, tel. 22 827 0020, www.bbpub.pl. How fickle this city can be.

The big fail of 2012. Forget that it’s the most accurate replica of a traditional British pub around, and consider instead the heinous service, fried aromas and a deserved ex-pat boycott traced to the dismissal of the original British manager.

Browarmia (C3) ul. Królewska 1, tel. 22 826 5455, www.browarmia.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. An industrial looking microbrewery filled with mysterious pipes, valves and gauges. The summer terrace is great, making it one of the best places around for a brew with a view.

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NIGHTLIFE Bufet Centralny (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34, tel. 523 749 160. Open 12:00-5:00. An artsy carpentered bar, white wall tiles and trendy draftsman desk lamps lend the severe looking Bufet Centralny no shortage of style, and instinct suggests it’ll continue to serve as one of Warsaw’s more happening bars for some time to come. But the service and customers do think highly of themselves, points outsiders might find obnoxious.

Café Colombia (D5) ul. Krucza 6/14, tel. 22 627 3770, www. colombiabar.pl. Open 8:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-23:00. Vast windows, vibrant colors and wide open spaces make it the polar opposite of the covert cocktail dens we usually like. But my God, the drinks here are special.

The Chili Manhattan Dream is outstanding, and the Espressotini to die for – and after ordering eight we nearly did. Also on the roster, a range of impressive international beers.

Chwila (B3) ul. Ogrodowa 31/35, tel. 22 401 1754.

Open 12:00-last guest; Sun 15:00-last guest.

Entered under a red, cabaret-style awning, Chwila is a reject factory space turned good.

Furry cushions, patchwork quilts and student art vie for attention alongside iron girders and industrial leftovers inside what is becoming known as one of the top alternative music venues this side of the river.

Czarna.Bar ul. Sienkiewicza 4, tel. 22 416 2467. Open 12:00-23:00; Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 10:0021:00. The look doesn’t say ‘just finished’, it says ‘haven’t even started’. Cables hang from walls, and specks of paint cover the grey / white surfaces – whether this is actually part of the final design one can only guess. It’s upstairs you’ll find most people moving to, and we like it very much. Looking fashionably spartan, the area includes an L-shaped mattress thing, and a glass wall which allows you to peer in on the chef downstairs.

Czeska Baszta Tower 22A, Most Poniatowskiego. Open TuesThurs, Sun 16:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 16:00-24:00.

Set in one of those towers that props up Most Poniatowskiego, its surroundings look grim – at night even scary. Bathed in a yellowish glow, it’s actually warm and welcoming, and the reason for that soon becomes apparent: everyone is drunk! There’s 80 Czech beers to pick from, and they do more than enough

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to distract from the rattle and rumble of overhead trams and a swamp monster toilet.

enough to justify calling it a rum bar. The house beer rocks though.

Czysta Ojczysta (G1) ul. Ząbkowska 27/31. Open Mon-Fri 18:00-4:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-4:00.

Here’s a turn up for the books: a Praga bar that doesn’t look infected. Set in a one-time vodka factory, this white-on-white haunt features little more than soothing colors, iron posts (watch them), and a whole wall of vodka. Expect the party to spill out into the courtyard, itself utilized for maverick events like bicycle polo.

Kwadrat (D5) ul. Poznańska 7, www.kwadrat.waw.pl.

Open 12:00-last guest; Sat 18:00-last guest; closed Sun. Chilled out and downtempo, owners Zosia and Michał have created a legend out of this dinky two room affair.

There’s too many beers to recommend, though the Rowing Jack diminishes quickly for a reason.

Flaming & Co. Champagne Bar (E6) ul. Mokotowska 43. Open 12:00-23:00.

Checkered floor tiles, pristine whites and classic pictures of the rich and famous announce Flaming. The guys look like Bond villains and the gals just like Bond girls, but don’t think it’s a closed shop. With glasses of Moet starting below zł. 50 it’s accessible to all. But forget the champagne, it’s their cocktails we love. Order oysters and let the night take its course.

BEST WAWA 2012 “Cocktails” Winner

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Jimmy Bradley’s (C4) Warsaw Towers (ground floor), ul. Sienna 39, tel. 22 654 6656, www.jimmybradleys.pl.

Open Mon-Fri 10:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 12:00-last guest. Rudderless since the departure of the original landlord, Kevin, this former ex-pat bastion is looking increasingly haggard and past its sell-by date. Tales of walkouts, staff sackings and customer boycotts have swirled thick and fast. There are Guinness taps, and there is a Sky dish, but the people who know how to operate either have long left the building.

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Kameralna ul. Foksal 11, tel. 887 878 731. Open 12:00-24:00. With a militia truck outside, and interiors that feature cutlery by Społem and 70s newspapers on the walls, you’d be right to think we’ve got another venue that celebrates the past. Looking vast and comfortingly cluttered, Kameralna is both a restaurant and a nightspot – brewing their own beer, the house lagers elevate it above the competition.

Kraken Rum Bar ul. Poznańska 12. Open 12:00-4:00. Named after one of the ocean’s most feared mythical creatures (the scary squid from Pirates of the Caribbean), the woodsy Kraken features a wall of cymbals, heavy furniture and some interesting photography. While there’s some decent bottles of rum, there’s perhaps not

Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640.

Open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00, Fri 11:00-02:00, Sat 12:00-02:00, Sun 12:00-23:00. A place that just keeps growing on us; there’s a segregated smoking chamber, traditional dartboard (no stupid electronics here), Sky Sports and a menu that’s as authentically English as the Downing Street cat. In charge of it all is Graham, a seasoned ex-pat with an embassy background.

Małe Piwo (D7) ul. Oleandrów 4. Open 17:00-last guest.

Tight trousers and flamboyant scarves are recommended in this hipster mecca, as is a triumphant drinks choice that numbers short of sixty regional beers. Design doesn’t go beyond jam jars for lights and a messy blackboard, but that’s all this place needs to work. Similar backstreet New York dive it’s got an effortless cool and our beer of the year: the minty flavor/raspberry hint M3.

Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’ (D4) Enter from ul. Nowy Świat 26. Enjoy while you can – slated for demolition in the coming years, the pavilions represent underground Warsaw at its raffish best. A low rent maze of dark, budget bars await, including the celebrated Klaps with its vibrator beer taps.

Panorama Bar and Lounge (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel.22 630 6306, www.panoramabar.pl.

Open Mon-Sun 18:00-02:00. An elegant bar that would easily pass for the VIP room of a well-to-do club. A floor 40 location makes it great for a date: the sunset views are dazzling.

Paparazzi (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 22 828 4219, www.paparazzi.com.pl. Open 9:00-last guest. Engage in suicidal cocktail consumption alongside high rollers and genetic

NIGHTLIFE miracles. Slick and smooth, Poland’s original cocktail chain continues to set the bar high with formidable cocktails (Pimm’s included!) and a smoking section that encompasses everything but the front door.

Pardon To Tu (C4) Pl. Grzybowski 12/16. Open 9:00-last guest.

Decorated in voluptuous brothel colors, the design involves mismatched seats, tilted lampshades and a relaxed arthouse look popular with creatives and other fringe dwellers. The live talent ranges from moody quartets to jazzy chanteuses, while a perfect marriage of late hours and great bottled beers helps along the enthusiastic crowd of latter day beatniks.

Pies Czy Suka (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8A. Open 11:00-last guest.

Monochrome gun metal grey colors are offset by a fashionable crowd attired in red shoes, pink trousers and blue headphones.

This clean, concrete space is speckled with plaster moldings of reindeer heads, and excels on the cocktail front. Order from an iPad menu, before settling back for cocktails made using mad scientist, molecular techniques that involve foam, vapor, beakers and other things you’d usually find in Professor Yaffle’s lab.

Plan B (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 508 316 976. Open Mon-Sat 13:00-last guest; Sun 16:00-last guest. Plan B is a byword for everything that’s hip and happening in Warsaw. Design doesn’t even come into the equation in this grubby

Shot Bars Bar Warszawa ul. Miodowa 2, Tel. 504 320 497. Open 24hrs. Creak upstairs to find a womb-like space filled out with sofas and nostalgic decorations like vintage radios, pics of old stars and black and white images of bare-breasted ladies. Run as a side hobby by a TV producer, the opening hours meet with full approval.

Bistro Relaks (D4) ul. Złota 6, tel. 508 566 824.

Open Sun-Thu 14:00-1:00; Fri-Sat 14:004:00. Retro style murals, some commie neon and staff in bow ties lend a distinct PRL edge to this shot bar, something enjoyed by a predominantly early 20s crowd.

Głębokie Gardło (D2) ul. Bednarska 28. Open 16:00-5:00.

Deep Throat reinvents the shot bar experience, thanks largely to a design that looks like it may have involved a professional. Using crisp blue and white colors, this vaulted chamber looks even better once the club crowd start emerging for post-party shots.

Meta ul. Mazowiecka 11 & ul. Foksal 21. Open 11:00-6:00. Affecting the style of a PRL era bar, these twin venues feature a raft of keepsakes leftover from the old days – right down to chains of bog paper that commonly retailed.

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Między Wódką z Zakąską ul. Chmielna 13. Open 10:00-24:00. Like most of its ilk, design never gets involved here. But that doesn’t stop one of the most diverse crowds in Warsaw gathering: on our visit, that meant Hilfiger clad preppies arm-wrestling (and winning) against the local hoods. Go Tommy! The five zlot plastic glasses of Brackie get the job done, and fast.

Pijalnia ul. Nowy Świat 19. Open 24hrs. Bow-tied staff serve vodka and pickles from behind a tiled bar to a crowd that gets younger as the day gets older. In quieter times, check the newspaperd walls to read up on 1980s sports reports.

Przekąski Zakąski/Bistro ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, tel. 22 826 7936. Open 24 hours. Shots of vodka and plates of Polish stomach liners are dispensed inside a mirrored environment with droopy plants. It’s an after club must, with stern service guaranteed from agitated oldies dressed in tuxedos. Packed to the brim come three, four even five am.

Warszawska Pl. Zbawiciela 5, tel. 600 121 240. Open 24hrs. When Plan B closes the hardcore head here. Little more than a grey concrete room, this newbie is winning the war as the city’s favorite shot bar.

upstairs bar, but the free spirits can’t get enough of it.

Po Drugiej Stronie Lustra (F1) ul. Jagiellońska 22, tel. 501 048 471. Open 12:00-last guest. A collective groan was issued when their premises on Ząbkowska closed, so it’s three cheers to learn they’re back at a new address. Looking more sanitized than the shabby original, the standout feature of this dark-looking, brick-ceilinged haunt is what ranks as Warsaw’s best collection of craft beers.

Sketch (E4) ul. Foksal 19, tel. 602 762 764, www.sketch.pl. Open daily 12:00-1:00; upstairs bar open Fri-Sat 20:00-1:00. The most global choice of beer in Warsaw, with international prices to match. The white minimalist interiors get busy with a cool crowd of urban sophisticates.

Spiskowcy Rozkoszy (D5) ul. Żurawia 47/49. Open Mon-Thur 16:0024:00; Fri-Sat 16:00-1:00; Sun 16:00-23:00.

The intimate layout makes use of wobbly antiques, sofas covered in velvety fabrics and weird extras like a mannequin donning a Russian hat with furry, flappy ears. Nights typically involve lots of yet-to-be-famous beers, while the lamp-lit toilet, seemingly built into a pre-war fireplace, is like stepping through the looking glass.

Spotkanie ze Szpiegiem (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 27/35. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-last guest; Sat-Sun 10:00-last guest.

You’d usually be right to avoid a place where the main decorative element is a fridge. But when that fridge is home to umpteen beers from Poland’s best, alternative breweries you know you’re on a winner. Little more than a small, rotund room, it’s immediately likeable – it’s got the ‘artistic’ spirit of the nearby Plan B, yet none of the vomit.

Syreni Śpiew ul. Szara 10A, tel. 602 773 293, www.syrenispiew.pl. Open Sun-Thurs 17:00-1:00; Fri-Sat 17:00-4:00. Housed in a 70s monster this two floor bar maintains its element of retro chic while at the same time providing a genuinely unique drinking experience. Aimed at a more mature, affluent crowd than their sister bar (Warszawa PKP Powiśle), the standout factor is a whisky menu divided up into regions of BEST WAWA Scotland, Ireland and Japan.

2012 “New Bar” Winner

Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 621 8622. Open Sun-Thu 12:00-24:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-03:00. This is the working model of the expat stronghold; they’ve got the food, the live music, a strong group of regulars and, better still, a spread of Sky Sports screens zapping in goalmouth action from across the world.

Warszawa Powiśle (E4) ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B. Open Mon-Fri 7:00last guest, Sat-Sun 10:00-last guest.

The prime months for this former ticket-booth are in summer when the deck chairs outside provide ample opportunity for the city’s young to gather in an almost carnival-like atmosphere. Seen as the hipster Center of Power, a collective bout of outrage saved them from council threatened closure earlier in the year.

Not just a bar, they’re now filling a dual role as Warsaw’s one billionth burger joint.

Warszawska Pijalnia Whisky (D4) ul. Zgoda 6, tel. 22 553 61 00, www.pijalniawhisky.pl. Open Mon -Sun 12:0022:00. With no old oak cabinets or portraits of Cambridge scholars it’s not the charismatic whisky bar one expects. Come to terms with this and you’ll be pleased to find excellent whisky – mostly from the Speyside Spey Distillery – inside dimly-lit pragmatic interiors.

Znajomi Znajomych (D5) ul. Wilcza 58A. Open Sun-Thurs 16:00-2:00; Fri-Sat 16:00-5:00. We’re not sure what kind of design they’ve opted for on the ground level, but either way it doesn’t work. Head upstairs instead to join the hipsters spread across a host of (smoking) rooms. It’s here Zna Zna comes into its own, with a set of chambers decorated in eclectic retro style – including one room which some would describe as a Ron Jeremy orgy room. Things get hot and sticky on their weekend club nights.

CLUBS 1500m2 (F4) ul. Solec 18, tel. 22 628 8412. Open Fri-Sat 22:00-06:00. Set in a former printing factory, 1500m2 has been central to the rise of Powiśle. The industrial space has a real Berlin edge to it, and events range from weekend flea markets to teeth shattering, dusk-tilldawn electro events.

Basen ul. Konopnickiej 6, tel. 696 058 944, www.artbasen.pl. Open Fri-Sat 21:00-6:00.

Get this, you’ll be doing your dance steps in what was formerly Warsaw’s first public swimming pool. Featuring a line-up of live bands and some of the top electronic acts around, this is definitely one to add to the watch list.

Capitol Theatre and Club (C3) ul. Marszałkowska 115, tel. 22 826 8570, www.clubcapitol.pl. An extravagant dance space with sparkly chandeliers, regal staircases and a modern Moscow, over-the-top style. Mark the Hed Kandi events in your diary for a night to remember.

DeLite (E5) ul. Marii Konopnickiej 6, www.deliteclub. com. Open Fri-Sat 21:00-last guest. Exposed brick pipes, raw concrete and an interesting mirror set-up in the bathrooms add to the futuristic, pretty-in-pink, spaceship interiors.

Joining the top table of Warsaw’s other ‘uber klubs’ De Lite gets even better once access to the VIP room is scored.

Enklawa (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 22 827 3151, www.enklawa.com. Open Wed-Sat 21:00-4:00. Forget internet dating, Enklawa is the best pick-up joint around – a classic kitschy, glitzy disco, it draws in huge crowds with a simple lineup of pop and dance hits.

Still regarded as the best Wednesday night in Warsaw, it’s the place for singletons looking for a one night confidence boost.

The Eve (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9 (corner of ul. Wierzbowa), tel. 22 827 5242, www.theeve.pl. Open WedFri 17:00-last guest; Sat 20:00-last guest.

Beauty and booty come first in The Eve, a blinged up offshoot of Platinium nearby.

A cutthroat door policy ensures plenty of egos crash and die at the door, and it’s got a Bacchanalian reputation for champagne popping high jinks. Observe them through the one way mirror in the VIP room.

Foksal XVIII ul. Foksal 18. Open Fri-Sat 10:00-4:00.

Composed using chandeliers, bricks and velvet this classy space has gone head to head with The Eve as Warsaw’s flashest venue: breathe deep and smell the money.

Cardboard animal shapes hang from the bar, adding some surreal humor to the seriously competitive air.

Jerozolima Al. Jerozolimskie 57. Set in a Gotham City

tenement this former children’s hospital fills a daytime role as a ‘creative space’ for artists and architects. As evening counts down find numerous club events and music nights taking shape amid the atmospherically lit, half-derelict looking confines. Keep up to speed with what’s on through Facebook.

Lemon (D4) ul. Sienkiewicza 6, tel. 22 829 5544, www. cafelemon.pl. A commercial dance basement that’s more beer than Belvedere. Hardly hedonistic, but usually a good mix of people – some who’ve made the effort, others who haven’t. While the club isn’t round-the-clock, the upstairs bar is, and as such find plenty of early morning casualties looking utterly zonked inside a chilled out, lemon yellow interior.

Luzztro (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, www.luztro.pl.

Open Tue-Sun 23:00-last guest. Feeling naughty? Luztro enjoys a nefarious reputation as something of a dodgy den of illicit pharmaceuticals and libertine behavior. Looking grim and grotty, this after party legend gets going at about 4 a.m. when troglodyte club creatures emerge to put the final touches to their zonked out stare. For the full tilt, teeth rattling electro experience it’s pretty hard to beat.

Opera Club (D2) Underground of Teatr Wielki, Pl. Teatralny 1, tel. 22 828 7075, www.operaclub.pl. Open Fri & Sat 22:00-last guest. A labyrinth of passageways and chambers await in Opera, a subterranean club located underneath the National Theater. Touting an exotic, far eastern look, it’s one of the best designed clubs you could imagine.

Platinium (D3) ul. Fredry 6, tel. 22 596 4666, www.platiniumclub.pl. Open Wed-Sat 20:006:00. The place if you’re rich or beautiful – but preferably both. Large and spectacular you’ll need to be dressed to the nines to reap the rewards that lie inside: featuring the most eye candy per sq/m in Europe, you might not find Mr/Mrs Right, but you will find Mr/Mrs Right BEST WAWA 2012 “Rich & Pretty for Now. Club” Winner

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Sztuki & Sztuczki ul. Szpitalna 8A, tel. 22 468 00 00, www.sztukisztucki.pl. Open Mon-Tue 13:00-22:00; Wed-Thu 13:00-2:00; Fri-Sat

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NIGHTLIFE 13:00-4:00. Ducking into a basement, the look is pure Kraków cool: covert corners and vaulted brick ceilings. Already established as one the top spots for alternative live music, find a high voltage atmosphere and a drinks list that’s lauded and applauded: Baczewski vodka to Svyturys beer.

Utopia (D3) ul. Kredytowa 9. Formerly of Jasna, Warsaw’s first club to bring in serious door selection is back, and this time within a throw of the main party drag. Flying under a pseudo pink banner, it’s a love or loathe venue full of A-Z list stars and their hangers on.

GENTLEMAN’S CLUBS

New Orleans ul. Zgoda 11, tel. 22 826 4831, www.neworleans. pl. Open 21:00-4:00.

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High rollers looking to clinch a deal in unusual surrounds should consider doing so in New Orleans: a gentleman’s club with a seriously VIP dining area. Cheaper snack and sandwich options available should you prefer to spend your money on the real reason you’re here…

JAZZ

Bistro na Pięknej ul. Piękna 20, tel. 22 627 4151, www.jazzone.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-24:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-24:00. A slick looking jazz spot that’s seen the benefit of a recent overhaul.

Playhouse Valued additions include a less austere style Al. Solidarności 82A, www.playhouse.com. and what at times might feel like Warsaw’s pl. Housed in a former bomb shelter, would only fireplace – and just in time for winter, and you believe it. Now though the talk is of all. Popular with a smart city crowd, keep an bombshells, namely the 57 they’ve got on their eye out for their live acts. books. Like most clubs, this place features a distinctly Slavic lineup of Poles, Russians and Nu ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 621 8989. Open Ukrainians.

10:00-24:00. For something a little educated take a date to Nu, a high-ceilinged effort with Sin Club slick urban dashes and regular piano. The ul. Marszałkowska Żurawia location marks it out as a popular 99/101, www.sinclub. spot for a high-end crowd. com.pl. One of the Tygmont Jazz Club (D3) biggest and best ul. Mazowiecka 6/8, tel. 22 828 3409, dance stables in town offers a pleasingly international line-up that demonstrates a seri- www.tygmont.com.pl. Open daily 16:00-4:00.

For true jazz lovers, Tygmont is a breath of fresh ous recruitment drive. You won’t find a more air in a city up to its ears in terrible acoustics. central strip club in town.

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SHOPPING ACCESSORIES 66 / FASHION 65 / SHOPPING MALLS 66

FASHION

Mostrami.pl www.mostrami.pl

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here’s a whole breed of Polish talent out there working its magic on the style front – but you wouldn’t really know it since few of them can manage to lease a snazzy boutique on Mokotowska and there’s not much room for true personal style at the mall.

Designers like Gregor Gonsior, Blessus, Mozcau, MMC, She’s a Riot and Zuo Corp have created some of the most stylish silhouettes of the season, along with some quality basics that never go out of fashion. Mostrami.pl brings them all together on one easily navigable website. And the rock stars of the scene are represented too, with Robert Kupisz, Ania Kuczyńska, Zień and Plich leading the pack. There are just about 100 designers to choose from, with prices straddling the wide spectrum of purchasing power.

Known to insiders as the ‘Polish Net-a-porter’, Mostrami.pl celebrates its one-year anniversary this spring, with its English-language version just a few months shy of that milestone. The quality of the English here is top-rate and the visual-based set-up makes shopping just as fun as rifling through the racks of a hot boutique. Best of all, as a rule, the designers on the site are all home-grown. Some of them, like Plich, Paulina Plizga or Maldoror have made their mark abroad, but they dote on their market at home, hoping to give local fashionistas an alternative to banal Zara basics or the sky-high prices of Gucci.

With this many choices, it’s easy to get lost or overwhelmed, but the site has several navigation options, where shoppers can browse by designer, seasonal trends or prices.

There are hundreds of pieces available, from up-to-the-minute Oscar-worthy gowns, shimmering cocktail dresses, chic tea dresses, romantic peasant skirts, royal jacquards, nude chiffon shifts and casual loungewear. Not to mention Kupisz’s iconic distressed leather jackets: absolutely sinful. My personal favorites are the ladylike skirts and dresses by Est by eS., Justyna Chrabelska’s modernist chic in pure silk, Natasha Pavluchenko’s vampy gowns and Zuo Corp’s space age extravaganza. There’s really something for everyone on the site and it’s about time the Polish fashion industry began to blossom and people took notice: it is finally spring, after all. (AL)

American Eagle Outfitters Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), tel. 665 625 639. Open Mon-Sat 10:0022:00; Sun 10:00-21:00. In their words, “where American prep meets current fashion”. Poland’s first American Eagle Outfitters has the full line of male and female fashion, including denims, t’s, footwear and much more besides.

Ania Kuczyńska (E5) ul. Mokotowska 61. Open Mon-Fri 12:0019:00; Sat 12:00-16:00. Ania Kuczyńska is becoming well known for her highly fashionable, minimalist clothing designs.

The store also carries adorable baby clothes and various accessories.

Boudoir 26 ul. Wilcza 11, tel. 22 400 9330, www.boudoir26.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. A unique luxury lingerie boutique selling top brands like Chantal Thomass, Lou Paris, ID Sarrieri and Chantelle. The boutique offers a high quality shopping experience inside a comfortable space. Shopping by appointment also available, where you can enjoy the shopping experience with a glass of bubbly.

Frenchy Store ul. Wspólna 27A, tel. 500 541 473, www.frenchystore.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-17:00. A hip and urban fashion store with sneakers from Vans, Onistuka Tiger and Nike, clothing by Risk. Made in Warsaw, and accessories by the likes of Mighty Wallet, Komono, Candy Crystal and SiS. Joanna Klimas (B2) ul. Nowolipki 2, tel. 22 831 0292,

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SHOPPING www.joannaklimas.com. Open Mon-Fri 9:0020:00. One of Poland’s top fashion designers runs this boutique/showroom. Choose from the latest collections or have a dress custom made for a particular occasion.

Likus Concept Store (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18 (courtyard), tel. 22 492 7409, www.likusconceptstore.pl. The Likus Concept Store brings ultra-chic designer clothing to Warsaw. The latest collections from Diesel, D2, Ferre, Sophia Kokosalaki and J. Lindeberg are all available and presented in this stylish three-floor department store.

Maciej Zień Boutique ul. Mokotowska 57, tel. 22 611 7337, www.zien.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. A flagship boutique from one of the stars of Polish fashion. Check Zień Home upstairs for the ultra-designer showroom.

Moliera 2 Boutique (D2) ul. Moliera 2, tel, 22 827 7099, office@moliera2.com, www.moliera2.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, Sat 11:00-16:00. Moliera 2 is the first place in Poland with collections of Valentino, Christian Louboutin, Salvatore Ferragamo, Ralph Lauren Collection, Herve Leger, Moncler Gamme Rouge and Balmain.

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, tel. 22 622 14 16, store@plactrzechkrzyzy.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-17:00. The first Ralph Lauren store in Poland, features not only the latest RL collections for men and women, but also labels like Tod’s, Moncler and Salvatore Ferragamo. Ready-to-wear clothes and accessories.

QπШ - Robert Kupisz ul. Mokotowska 48 (courtyard), tel. 690 021 787, www.robertkupisz.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-14:00.

One of Warsaw’s hottest fashion icons, and a trip here soon explains why. The exclusive, handmade garments are a guaranteed head turner, and Kupisz’s latest collection is a tribute to Americana: think disheveled cowgirls flouncing on the prairie.

Reykjavik District (F4) ul. Solec 18/20, tel. 501 399 222, www.reykjavikdistrict.com. Open Tues-Fri 13:00-19:00; Sat-Sun 13:00-17:00. Chic, wellcut menswear for all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal.

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Snobissimo ul. Mokotowska 28, tel. 22 629 8759, www.snobissimo.pl. Top labels from design houses like Jimmy Choo, Sonia Rykiel, Les Copains, Sergio Rossi etc., etc. With shoes and accessories all provided for, it’s a onestop shop to re-boot your wardrobe.

ACCESSORIES Bagatt (E6) ul. Mokotowska 28, tel. 22 621 9144.

Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00.

Bagatt features Italian-made footwear. A savvy alternative to the upmarket brands up the street on Pl. Trzech Krzyży.

Bath & Body Works ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów). The famed American brand signals its arrival to Europe with the launch of their Warsaw branch. Now fans of the brand can experience first-hand luxurious fragrant body care, hand and home collections. Customers can discover sophisticated fragrances, test shower gels and soaps at the sink area, and try everything from body lotions to home fragrances.

Batycki (various locations) Bozena Batycka’s sleek, simple handbag designs are made with italian leather. While her products are not inexpensive by Polish standards, their uniqueness combined with substantial durability make them a perenial favorite.

HOS&me ul. Mokotowska 63, www.mokotowska63.com.

Luxury jewelry and the best in the biz.

In stock: high end treasures from Nialaya, Lene Bjerre Design, Ti Sento, Christensen and Dryberg/Kern.

Secret Life (of Things) ul. Polna 18/20, tel. 22 412 4811, www.secretlife.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. An ‘eco lifestyle concept store’ full of bio-friendly scents, cosmetics, hand-made trinkets and housewares, rustic furnishings and detox teas. And it’s the multi-colored tins that greet you at the door, all of them crying out ‘drink me’. Check the prestigious porcelain by Kristoff, stock up on Madara cosmetics, or snap up a pair of handmade shoes.

Victoria’s Secret Beauty & Accessories ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów). An assortment of Victoria’s Secret Beauty products including fun and flirty fragrances, such as Bombshell, as well as the scented VS Fantasies body care range. For that glam girl-on-the go, expect to find a wide range of Victoria’s Secret branded bags, luggage, passport covers and small leather goods to cosmetic bags, bangles and key fobs.

SHOPPING MALLS Arkadia (A1) Al. Jana Pawła II 82, www.arkadia.com.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 Galeria Mokotów (C12) ul. Wołoska 12, www.galeriamokotow.com.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-20:00 Klif (A2) ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4500, www.klif.pl. Open Mon-Sat 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has everything from the excellent Bomi supermarket to top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko.

Mysia 3 ul. Mysia 3. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00; Sun 12:00-18:00. Hip and high-end department store with units such as NYCity (DKNY, Donna Karan), Berries & Co. (Ice Watch, Triwa, Ike Milano), UEG, My Paris and Take a Nap selling great pieces from both established and upcoming designers.

Vitkac Wolf Bracka Wolf Center, ul. Bracka 9, www.likusconceptstore.pl Poland’s premier address for designer tags – you won’t find more designer labels per sq/m anywhere else. Money spenders inc. Jimmy Choo, Paul Smith, Stella McCartney, Jil Sander, Gucci, Bottega, Yves Saint Laurent, etc…

Złote Tarasy (C4) ul. Złota 59, www.zlotetarasy.pl. Open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00. Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Health and Fitness Club.

Reviews: Peek-a-boo 67 / Plus:

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Insider’s Pick

ACTIVITIES Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, www.kopernik.org.pl. A brilliant array of science-inspired attractions that prove as stimulating for parents as they are for the kids. Check out Galeria BZZZ, an area designated for children up to six. In order to keep numbers manageable, expect entry times to be staggered.

Colourstrings Music School (Barwy Muzyki) ul. Niecała 14, tel. 22 188 1827, www.barwymuzyki.pl. The philosophy is simple: add fun to learning and create an environment where music, singing and instruments are accepted as part of the daily lifestyle. Following music sheets transformed into colorful characters, children are encouraged to experiment with instruments and song as they would with their toys.

Peek-a-boo ul. Karola Chodkiewicza 7, tel. 22 370 21 71. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-19:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-20:00.

PHOTOGRAPH BY GILL BOELMAN-BURROWS

P

ark Pole Mokotowskie has long been the perfect place for family strolling; it’s also home to several child friendly restaurants, but unless you live in the adjacent EcoPark complex you might have overlooked the latest newcomer to Warsaw’s kiddie café scene. The Peek-a-boo café is tucked in between tidy apartment blocks and is still a wellguarded neighborhood secret. But as the name suggests, its owner Katarzyna is out to grab your attention and keen to entice new custom.

Unlike most child friendly zones, Peek-a-boo has taken a more sophisticated, elegant approach to its interior. The pale palette and plush velvet upholstered furniture might not be the first choice of fabrics around sticky, chocolaty paws but every mummy needs a bit of luxury from time-to-time and Peek-a-boo taps into that need.

The café divides its limited square meters evenly between parent and child expectations, creating space to relax, eat and play in: however, the gigantic doll’s house does suggest Barbie got the best deal. The play area has an array of beautiful wooden toys to tease children’s imagination, plus there’s an adjoining room for activities such as cooking lessons, art, crafts and birthday parties (check the FB page as the café closes for birthdays).

This area is also perfect for the independent toddler who wishes to test mummy or daddy’s letting go skills! But, thanks to Katarzyna (who really thinks of everything), parents can keep one eye on their coffee and the other on a cleverly placed camera/screen just to make sure World War III hasn’t broken out just round the corner!The menu echoes the apartment complex’s ethos by focusing on healthy, organic dishes, all of which are freshly made with local produce when available. The Peek-a-boo motto (‘do what you love, love what you do’) is true; there really is nothing our little tots like more than playing with new toys whilst we sip tea, nibble cake, glance at glossy magazines or enjoy a quick gossip. So before the traffic jam of bugaboos builds up, I recommend taking a peek at Peek-a-boo. (GBB)

Little Chef Cooking classes for children age 4-16. Groups for younger children age 4-10 and Junior Chef courses age 11-16. Kids cook-and-eat healthy meals. Great fun! Classes in English, French and Polish, Mon-Sat. Visit www.littlechef.pl or call 0501 093 691 for more information.

Little Gym ul. Bruzdowa 56, tel. 22 842 0728, www.thelittlegym.Over 300 locations worldwide, with the first one in Poland opened last November. Expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-to-child ratio, original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. Not only a great place for children, but tailored to a comfortable and relaxing stay for parents as well.

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Teatr Lalka Pl. Defilad 1 (Palace of Culture), www.teatrlalka. waw.pl. This puppet theatre stages a variation of productions suitable for children aged 3 +. Scenery, props and costume design are impressive but Polish dialogue is challenging!

Losing the plot to Hansel and Gretel can happen - prepare to improvise! Tip: organize a backstage birthday party.

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Zachęta Gallery Pl. Małachowskiego 3, www.zacheta.art.pl.

Recently undergone extensive modernization but still awaiting a café, this gallery and bookshop offer a perfect introduction to modern art. Also available are weekend workshops for children and original cultural birthday parties guided by experienced animators in a contemporary environment.

CAFES Fiku Miku ul. Zwycięzców 32, www.fikumikucafe.pl.

This small, jolly cafe is dedicated to children.

The focus is on films and creative workshops.

Designer Polish toys are on sale alongside a healthy menu, and fresh cake selection.

Check FB for updates as this café closes for private birthday parties.

Kolonia (B7) ul. Łęczycka (corner of Ładysława), tel. 605 084 804, www.kolonia-ochota.pl.

Open daily 10:00-20:00. Equipped with a garden/playground, Kolonia is the most kid-friendly (and pet-friendly) place in the area, offering fresh daily specials.

Kredkafe al. Wyzwolenia 14, tel. 22 622 1561, www.kredkafe.pl. Open daily 10:00-20:00.

The interiors look great, bright and cheerful with cute cartoon sketches and an entire playroom complete with toys, stuffed animals and a playhouse. There is even a mini-theater

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where the kids can put on puppet shows.

Bathrooms, of course, have baby-change facilities. The brainchild of two women with experience in hospitality and pedagogy, part of the idea of Kredkafe was to create a teaching space.

Pompon (Wola) ul. Młynarska 13, www.pompmart.pl.

There’s more than an organic menu to recommend about Pompom. Explore forest-to-city play environments equipped with slides, rope bridges and a selection of Wendy houses, or join the dad’s and lads in the Nintendo / Wii room. How long, you may ask, will it be till parents start turning up here without the kids just to wallow in the color?

Umpa Lumpa ul.Mickiewicza 24, tel. 22 245 1909, www.umpa-lumpa.pl. Open Mon-Fri 7:0019:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-19:00. Bit part café, most part candy store. Colorfully designed, shelves here feature an array of rainbow colored lollipops, sweets and chocolate. Spoil your toddler, and yourself while you’re there.

EDUCATION PRESCHOOLS

Bilingual French – Polish Preschool “Trampoline” ul. Zakopiańska 12a (Saska Kępa) and ul. Skrzetuskiego 17 (Mokotów),mob.

502 355 919, www.trampoline.edu.pl.

This preschool has a lingual profile and offers

bilingual teaching with French and English.

They received the European Label Certificate for innovative foreign language teaching.

The British School Early Years Centre ul. Dabrowskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646 7777, british@thebritishschool. pl, www.thebritishschool.pl. The British School provides special classes from pre-nursery aged 2 ½ (30 months) to 6 years old. Children at the Early Years Centre move on to our Primary and Secondary schools at Limanowskiego 15.

Canadian School of Warsaw – Preschool (C11) ul. Kalatówki 24, tel. 22 898 3139, 697 979 100. The pre-school branch of the Canadian School of Warsaw provides both Polish and International 3-5 year olds with the perfect setting for their first encounters with English and French in an inquiry based classroom. Here, every task relates to real life experience and skills. For further info, tours and school visits please call or email: preschool@canadian-school.pl.

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations)

Warsaw Montessori School ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134,

office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www.warsawmontessori.edu.pl.

Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have 3 green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in earlychildhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. Call to make an appointment to tour any of the 3 schools.

Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupéry (H4) ul. Nobla 16, tel./fax: 22 616 1499, www.saintexupery.pl. Montessori curriculum in French for children aged from 2½ years old.

The English Playhouse (F12) ul. Płyćwiańska 14a & ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 22 843 9370, www.theenglishplayhouse.com. The English Playhouse functions in the quiet, green residential district of Mokotów, next to Królikarnia Park. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months till six years old. Now with an additional location in Wilanów which includes a new, purpose-built pre-school building with a huge garden for children up to six years of age.

For info call Agnieszka Weston on 604 464 333 or email: office@theenglishplayhouse.com.

Happy Montessori House Warsaw Montessori Pre-school, ul. Rumiana 14, tel. 22 427 3767, mob. 697 060 504, www.hmh.com.pl.

The Happy Montessori House offers part-time and full-time places for children aged between 2.5 to 6 years, as well as toddler-focused activities (from 18 months to 3 years) centered around movement, sensorial stimulation, storytelling, singing and socialising.

Maple Tree Montessori ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46a (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, www.mapletreemontessori.pl. Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international

preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a music and art program. Find them located in the Wilanów district of Warsaw, in a house safely nestled into the end of a quiet street. The program, which is designed for 1½ to 6 year-olds, is devoted to the intellectual, emotional, social and physical development of children.

Montessori Academy for International Children ul. Królewicza Jakuba 36 (Wilanów) ul. Sadowa 4 (Konstancin), tel. 502 315 022, www.monte ssoriacademy.eu. An English-speaking preschool (16 months to 6 years of age) with two locations. The school’s policy is to comply with Montessori standards, using the Montessori Method in English. The school’s philosophy is based on the joy of learning, which comes from discovering and furthering the individual development of each child.

Tequesta ul. Przejazd 2, tel. 603 919 096/535 400 033, info@tequesta.pl, www.tequesta.pl. Polish and English language groups for children aged from six months to six years, as well as a wide range of extra-curricular activities.

Trilingual Pre-school and Nursery “Three Languages” Center ul.Karowa 14/16 lok 6 (3-5 year olds); ul. Cicha 5 lok 1 (1-2 year olds),

www.3languages.pl. Open 7:30-18:30.

The only trilingual pre-school and nursery teaching English, Spanish and Polish through total language immersion. All educators are native speaker pre-school teachers. The comprehensive curriculum follows American, Spanish and Polish curriculum standards. The pre-school was awarded European Language Label in 2012.

SCHOOLS

American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202, Konstancin-Jeziorna, tel. 22 702 8500, fax 022 702 8500, admissions@aswarsaw.org, www.aswarsaw. org. The American School of Warsaw provides comprehensive programs and facilities based on a US system of education for ages 4 to 18.

The British School ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, british@thebritishschool.pl, www.thebritishschool.pl. Top-ranking private school in Warsaw providing outstanding education based on the British system.

The Canadian School of Warsaw – Primary School Unit ul. Bełska 7, tel. 22 646 9289, 697 970 244.

The Canadian School of Warsaw provides a continuum of IB-based education for 6-10

The English-speaking preschool for children from the international community

22 843 9370 784 037 808

Now receiving applications for Autumn 2013

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CHILDREN year olds. Highly qualified, international staff, challenging materials and a friendly atmosphere provides for an optimal setting for the highest standard of education.

Extra-curricular activities include pottery, dance, ballet, capoeira, karate, emotional intelligence, art studio and tennis. For further info, tours and school visits please call or email: secretary@canadian-school.pl.

The Canadian School of Warsaw – Middle and High School Unit ul. Olimpijska 20, tel. 697 977 600, 697 979 300.

The Middle and High unit of the Canadian School of Warsaw provides a continuum of IB-based education for 11-19 year olds. With both Canadian and Polish curricula content students are given the opportunity to choose between Polish Matura or IB Diploma exams.

International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create a perfect learning and creative thinking environment.

For further info, tours and school visits please call or email: mid.high@canadian-school.pl.

Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupéry (H4) Established in 1994, the Antoine de SaintExupery preschool and school provides a French curriculum for children two to eight years old

(3rd year of primary school) in a welcoming family atmosphere. Highly qualified native French-speaking teachers.

on the Montessori curriculum with an education based on the integration of conceptual learning and real-life experiences.

SHOPS Kid’s Academy Primary & Pre-School ul. Arbuzowa 33D (Wilanów), ul. Łąkowa 38 (Konstancin), tel. 501 205 080, www.kidsacademy.com.pl. A Private English - Polish School which provides an excellent early educational program for children from ages 2.5 - 5 years old and at the Primary School, from Grade 0. Combining elements of both the Polish and British curriculum, the focus is on creating a positive and vibrant learning environment. They’re also proud of their large playground and variety of healthy foods.

Lycée Français de Varsovie ul. Walecznych 4/6, tel. 22 616 5400, www.lfv.pl. French school admitting students from the age of two years old. All instruction is in French. Languages offered : Polish, English, German, Spanish, Latin. Also, a wide variety of after school activities (sport, arts, extra-curricular instruction).

Warsaw Montessori School (G7) ul. Szwoleżerów 4, tel. 22 841 3908, sylvia@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www.warsawmontessori.edu.pl. Focuses

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Bimbus ul. Wilcza 69, www.bimbus.com.pl. Accessories, clothes, furniture and toys for parents who pamper their child with nothing but the best. Brands include Tartine et Chocolat, Quax, Woodwork and Theophile & Patachou. The products are adorable.

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Endo Multiple locations, www.endo.pl. Endo is the original home of quality children’s wear that embraced great design by Polish artists and accompanied it with Polish slogans. Much of the materials used are organic, hardwearing and wash well. A good address for baby basics and all closet essentials.

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Lullaby Multiple locations, www.lullaby.pl. Jam packed with funky design and quirky gifts for your little ones. However, the exquisite clothing and designer labels do come with a hefty price tag.

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Mimbla ul.Mokotowska 51/53, www.cudanakiju.pl.

Exclusively for kids on Warsaw’s most exclusive shopping street it’s an Aladdin’s cave of quality toys and Polish/English books. Get your gift wrapped here and both mum and child will be happy even before opening it.

Alumni Event at The British School, Warsaw celebrates 20 years of British Education in Poland On 29 June 2013, The British School, Warsaw will host its first ever Alumni Event, to provide the opportunity for anyone that has ever been a student, teacher/employee or parent here to come, share memories and celebrate our first 20 years providing British Education in Poland.

The one-day event will include a nostalgic walk down memory lane, a presentation from the current Principal Dr Terry Creissen OBE and the Founder of the School, Mrs Iwona Thomas MBE. There will be plenty of opportunities to catch up with familiar faces from your past. We will continue to celebrate into the night with food and entertainment to share memories and create new ones.

For more information contact us now alumni@thebritishschool.pl

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WARSAW INSIDER | MAY 2013

Brought to you by: International American School of Warsaw

THE LEARNING CURVE

The Insider sits down with Christopher Uden, Vice Principal of the International American school of Warsaw, to tackle the meaty topic of learning. BY DAVID INGHAM Can you tell us about the history of the International American School of Warsaw (IAS)?

IAS boasts an interesting history. We were founded in 1989 and were the first private international school in post-communist Poland. With almost 25 years of experience, we have developed a unique atmosphere that caters to both the Polish and international communities of Warsaw. In that time, we have also developed a balanced curriculum that offers three different diplomas so that students may continue their studies in Poland, Europe, America, or anywhere else they set their sights.

How does the education of children at the American school differ to that in Polish schools?

IAS is recognized by three major accrediting bodies: the International Baccalaureate Organization (IBO), Northwest Associated – Advanced (American Diploma) and the Polish Ministry of Education (MEN). The IBO and Northwest diplomas give Polish students an advantage in choosing universities abroad while also exposing all our students to university level proficiency in all core subject areas. If students show the determination to grow and get results at this level, they will find the gateway to higher education in an international environment much easier than if arriving from a Polish School.

fosters the language learning process. We are very proud of that.

As well as academic excellence and high quality teaching what other benefits does the American school offer those who attend?

I would say one of our biggest benefits would be “School Pride” and all the experiences that come with that. We made it a priority that the school brings something new each day and that our students enjoy their time here, educationally as well as socially. Some manifestations of this ideal is the beautifully designed and written student magazine, “The IAS Times" (a must read!), the IAS Radio morning show and our school mascot, "IAS Tiger", who leads cheers at student debates as well as football matches. Our student government is very proactive and due to their work, we maintain a balance of pride, achievement and a sense of belonging within the school. The parent community is very supportive of these developments.

What events does the school have for the rest of 2013?

This spring we will have a charity fundraiser in coordination with the Providence Home of Uganda, we will have green school trips to the Czech Republic, Austria and Hungary, and we will close the year with a student organized senior prom. But the biggest surprise is still under a tent and will Is the school comprised mainly of American and Polish chil- be revealed to the general public very soon! dren, or do you have many other nationalities as well?

This is the beauty about IAS. We are extremely multicultural.

This year we have over 25 different nationalities walking International American School of Warsaw through our halls. The common language is English and ul. Stefana Dembego 18 (Kabaty), therefore the language acquisition process, even for those tel. 22 649 1440, www.ias.edu.pl less proficient, is very rapid. Student to student interaction

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REVOLUTIONARY SUNDAYS 70/7 On the 7th Day of the week you will pay only 70% of your total bill, every Sunday in any of our 3 dining venues: Parmizzano’s, Champions or Panorama.

Reservations: +48 22 630 6306 or mail@marriott.com.pl

WARSAW MARRIOTT HOTEL Jerozolimskie 65/79 00-697 Warsaw WarsawMarriott.pl or WarsawMarriott.com

Reviews: Pardon My French 73 / Plus:

* 1 update

LIFESTYLE

ACCOMODATION 73 / COMMUNITY 75 / HEALTH & BEAUTY 74 / MEDICAL 75 / POLISH FOR FOREIGNERS 75

ACCOMODATION

Insider’s Pick

HOTELS IN WARSAW 5-star hotels H15 Boutique Apartments (D5) ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 553 8700, www.h15boutiqueapartments.com. Luxury short and long-term stay accommodation inside stunning Italian furnished apartments in the city center.

Hilton Warsaw (B4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555, www.hilton.com. Single and double room €95-125 (weekend), €135 (weekdays).

Excellent services and amenities in a world-class hotel and conference centre.

Holmes Place Lifestyle Club offers premium fitness facilities.

Pardon My French ul. Belwederska 32, www.pardonmyfrench.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat 9:00-17:00.

Y

ou gotta’ love the name of the place. As I was whizzing down Belwederska on one of those last frigid mornings of winter that sweet sign was the only thing to put a smile on my face. Now that it’s spring and the toes are finally getting ready to see the light of day, I thought it wise to check out what’s behind the whimsical exterior of this snazzy nail salon and get freshened up for the season. The location is super convenient, right near Łazienki Park and across from the Hyatt. Perfect for an afternoon walk and a quick visit to Pardon for their luxurious mani-pedia ‘komplet’. Better still, there’s the aptly named Ouch wax salon right next door - pure convenience for the modern lady.

This place is by far the brightest, roomiest nail salon I’ve ever seen. It’s got a kind of Indonesian-Cuban vibe with its lily-white walls, gauze curtains and splashes of tropical print. I absolutely love their flower-sprigged Kartel chairs – the ambiance here immediately makes you feel like you’re on vacation, even if the sands of Tenerife are still weeks away. And if the interior design doesn’t move you, the treatments will. I just handed myself over and sat back as my poor feet were soaked, rubbed, pumiced and buffed. I leaned into the soft cushions with a trashy novel and awaited my feet’s spring awakening. The mani was a swifter job: quick, but efficient. And I was glad to hear about the salon’s new faster-drying polish as I despise waiting for my nails to dry. I was antsy to get back out into the sunshine!

I left feeling fresh, clean and prim with my petal-pink nails – I’m not as adventurous as the gals who opt for vampish talons in blood-red or electric blue. The next step was to plan a shopping excursion to my favorite new shoe shop (My Paris at Mysia 3), because a pair of hot new sandals are the ultimate accessory for the perfect pedi. As for the wax at Ouch, I’m still debating the matter of pain over gain. (AL)

Hyatt Regency Warsaw (E8) ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, www.warsaw.regency@hyatt.com, www.warsaw.regency.hyatt.com.

InterContinental (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com. Single & double rooms: €95-155. Riverview Wellness Centre and swimming pool on top floor.

Le Meridien Bristol (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1000, www.starwoodhotels.com. Single room: €129-159, double room: €139-169.

Fitness centre, gym, swimming pool, sauna.

Mamaison Le Régina Hotel Warsaw (C1) ul. Kościelna 12, tel.22 531 6000, www. mamaison.com. Muffle up for an evening prowl around old town, before spoiling yourself inside the desginer confines of this boutique masterpiece. Prices start from approx. €115, but it’s well worth your time browsing their ‘romantic break’ and ‘just married’ packages.

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LIFESTYLE Marriott (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 6306, www.warsawmarriott.com. Prices from: zł.

231 (weekends), zł. 528 (weekdays). Gym and swimming pool. Central location only 20 minutes from the airport. All rooms with panoramic view.

The Rialto Boutique Hotel (D6) ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8700, www.hotelrialto.com.pl. Top-class boutique hotel in the centre of Warsaw. Single room: €140, double room: €170, apartment: €220.

24-hour fitness centre for guests only.

Sheraton (E5) ul. Prusa 2, www.sheraton.com/warsaw, tel. 22 450 6100. Single & double rooms: €77126. Fitness centre, aerobic studio, sauna.

Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel (C3) ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888. Single & double rooms zł. 420-490 (weekend rate from

zł.250). First Class Fitness Centre.

Sofitel Victoria (D3) ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8011, www.orbis.pl. Single & double rooms: €95200. Swimming pool now open to the public.

Westin (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, www.westin.com/warsaw. Single & double rooms: €77-126. Gym and sauna.

HEALTH & BEAUTY FITNESS

Holmes Place Premier ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), www.holmesplace.pl.

Those who use it claim the Hilton branch is

the best gym in Poland. Set on two floors, highlights include a 25 meter pool, sauna and steam room and a spacious gym packed with the most modern equipment.

Also on-site, a varied timetable of classes, excellent personal trainers and a Green Coffee relaxation area. Their latest outpost in the Marriott also has a pool and has been updated accordingly to fit the HP quality check. For prices enquire direct.

Pure Platinum (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), level 3, www. purepoland.com. The Pure gym offers treadmills, cross trainers, bikes and rowing machines equipped with screens, as well as sauna and personal training. Updated prices were yet to be released at press time, though shouldn’t go much beyond zł. 200 per month.

RiverView Wellness Centre (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental), www.

Brought to you by Warsaw Pack standing, let us give you an example of one of our products:”101 hours around Poland”. We get our clients closer to nature, but with an adrenaline buzz. We use all their senses and tap all their potential. We take our clients around Poland by train, plane, boat, balloon, 4x4, racing car etc. They get to see and experience the seaside, the mountains, the lakes and three of Poland’s biggest cities.

We break all stereotypes about Poland and let them experience the real Poland. They return home with new horizons and more understanding...

To Poland with Love by Warsaw Pack For more information: www.warsawpack.pl

T

rack down a bear, discover a 300 year old shipwreck, learn to make bread, experience nature not touched by man, climb mountains, shop till you drop, sail through 2,000 lakes…

Q: Are we talking Poland?

A: Most definitely so. It’s an amazing country where there is so much to be seen and discovered. Too many people aren’t aware of the wonders of Poland and that’s what makes it even more special.

You offer a “great time” in Poland.

“Your great time is our job” is our motto. To give you a better under-

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WARSAW INSIDER | MAY 2013

Why Poland?

We’ve been discovering the world, living, working and travelling abroad. Being amazed by the Americas, Asia, Africa, other parts of Europe but not knowing our homeland. When we got older and came back “home” we fell in love with Poland. We don’t look at Poland through the history of socialism, communism and World wars. That is a part of Poland’s history but it belongs to history.

We love to invite our guests to a beautiful, modern country in the centre of Europe – one with amazing nature, metropolitan cities, high standards, utterly great food, and hospitality that is part of our culture.

What makes you good at what you do?

Always going the extra mile!

PHOTOGRAPH BY BENKOWSKI.PL

What makes Warsaw an alternative to other big cities in Europe?

We believe Warsaw is comparable to other great capitals such as London or Paris, the only difference is the lower prices. Our Boutique Journeys have a wide offer of activities according to interests.

From “art lovers” to “crazy foodie”, which includes a Teppanyaki show to creative Spanish cuisine.

riverview.com.pl. Top-class facilities and equipment, private instructors and small classes. The view from the highest pool in Europe offers a glorious panorama of the city.

Annual prices from zł. 4,200 (access from Mon-Fri 6 a.m. to 5 p.m.), zł. 5,760 (all times), and zł. 8,350 for Diamond Membership (includes two personal training sessions per month, a complimentary weekend at the InterContinental, restaurant discounts, etc.).

SPAS & SALONS

The Cutting House – Exclusive Hairdressing (E5) ul. Wiejska 20, www.cuttinghouse.pl, tel. 22 622 6362. The Cutting Salon has an elegant polish on a contemporary design and a wide variety of celebs, diplomats and your run-ofthe-mill fashionista dropping in for a trim or a manicure. You will not be disappointed.

Sungate Beauty & Spa Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 2, tel. 22 582 9474, 517 012 880, www.spasungate.pl.

Open 10:00-24:00. A feast for all five senses, Sungate offers a wide range of massages, face and body treatments as well as a VIP room for couples.

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Yonelle - Zwolińska Beauty Institute ul. Gen. Zajączka 9A, tel. 22 331 39 05 (Salon), 22 330 90 35 (Medispa), www.yonelle.pl.

Yonelle offers absolutely everything I can imagine a woman would need to stay fit at all stages of life: there’s a spa here, a salon, a medical spa that offers some of those more techno-savvy “rejuvenating” treatments, fitness classes and even baby bonding classes.

polska. This world class dental clinic incorporates five dental offices, an operating room, two recovery rooms and a state-of-theart diagnostic center.

14, biuro@ modern.edu.pl, www.modern. edu.pl. A wide range of Polish classes and customized courses at attractive prices either in small groups or private classes.

Medicover Center Atrium, Al. Jana Pawła II 27, ul. Inflancka 5, ul. Bitwy Warszawskiej 1920 r. 18, ul. Domaniewska 37, ul. Puławska 278, ul. Poligonowa 3. Hotline: 19 677 or 500 900 500, Medicover Hospital on Al. Rzeczypospolitej 5 in Wilanów tel. 500 900 900,

Schola Polonica ul. Jaracza 3, tel. 22 625 2652, www.schola.pl.

Master Polish in a friendly atmosphere. All levels catered for, with groups never going beyond a maximum of five people.

Therapy Warsaw ul. Filtrowa 69/13, tel. 601 532 319, www.therapywarsaw.com. English-speaking therapy for couples and individuals dealing with relationships, eating disorders, trauma, stress and much more besides.

POLISH FOR FOREIGNERS Akademia PFF (H4) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 67/11, tel. 792 887 350, www.pff-warsaw.com, email: academy@pff-warsaw.com. Akademia PFF offers a wide range of Polish courses for foreigners - individuals and groups.

Professional and friendly tutors with effective teaching styles.

Modern.edu School of Language Al. Jerozolimskie 11/19 lok.21, tel. 22 881 85

COMMUNITY Expatriates PFF (H4) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 67/11. tel. + 48 792 887 350www.pff-warsaw.com e-mail: legal@pff-warsaw.comOffers services for foreigners coming to Poland, including obtaining residence and work permits, visas, setting up business activities as well as legal services and support for foreign investors and business entities. For more information call or write: +48 22 828 15 01; + 48 792 887 350, legal@pff-warsaw.co International Christian Fellowship & International Community Center Interdenominational services in English (10:30am, Sunday). Facilities, programs and community activities for all ages: children, students and adults. Contact tel. 607 309 490, roy.taylor@icfwarsaw. org, www.icfwarsaw.org

MEDICAL MEDICAL PRIVATE CLINICS

Lux Med Medical Clinics ul. Racławicka 132b, ul. Chmielna 85/87; ul. Puławska 15; ul. Kopernika 30 (E4); ul. Szernera 3; Al. Jerozolimskie 162; 24hr hotline: 801 800 808, for mobile users: tel. 22 332 2888, www.luxmed.pl.

WARSAW

Malo Clinic (C4) Rondo ONZ 1, tel. 22 335 7755, www.maloclinics.com/

MALO CLINIC Warsaw is Central Europe's first clinic of the world’s leader in Implantology and Dental Aesthetics, offering full dental care, and above all advanced dental implant surgery.

Located in a modern office complex Rondo 1 at Rondo ONZ, in the city center of Warsaw, the Clinic can be easily accessed as it is located in only 10 minutes from Central Railway Station, 30 minutes from the F. Chopin International Airport, near bus, tram stops and subway station (Świętokrzyska Station).

Entry into a secured car park in the Rondo 1 building – off Pańska street.

Services Available MALO CLINIC Warsaw provides the best specialists and the latest diagnostic equipment (including computer

Meridian International Schools provide a comprehensive and outstanding education based on the Polish-British system, and IB in high school.

Meridian International Schools

Elementary, middle and high school in Warsaw, and kindergarten and elementary level in Łódź. ul. Wawelska, 66/74, Ochota tel: 22 822 1575, infoprimary@meridian.edu.pl, www.meridian.edu.pl

World Leader in Implantology and Dental Aesthetics

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STREET INDEX 1 Sierpnia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . A11 3 Maja al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 29 Listopada . . . . . . . . . . . . G7 Adampolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . H3 Agrykola . . . . . . . . . . . . E6, F6-7 Akacjowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Angorska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Anielewicza . . . . . . . . . . .A2-B1 Armii Ludowej al. . . . .C-D7, E-F6 Asfaltowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Asnyka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6, B6 Baboszewska . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Bacciarellego . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Bachmacka . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Baczyńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Badowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Bagatela . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Bagno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 Bajońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Baleya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A10 Balladyny . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Balonowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Bałuckiego . . . . . . . . . . . .E9-10 Banacha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A8 Bandoski . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10 Barokowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Barska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Bartoszewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Bartoszka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G-H10 Bartycka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H7 Batorego . . . . . . . . . . . .C8, D7-8 Batumi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Bednarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E2 Beethovena . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Belgijska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Belwederska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Bełska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Berezyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Biała . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B3 Białoskórnicza . . . . . . . . . .D-E2 Białostocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Biały Kamień . . . . . . . . . . . . .B8 Bielawska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Blaszana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Bliska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1-2 Bluszczańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H8 bł.Władysława . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Bobrowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Boczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Boleść . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Bonifraterska . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Boryszewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Boya-Żeleńskiego . . . . . . . . .E7 Braci Pilatich . . . . . . . . . . .E9-10 Bracka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Browarna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Bruna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8 Bryły . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D12 Brzeska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Brzozowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Bugaj . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Bukietowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D11 Bukowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Bukszpanowa . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Buraczana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Burgaska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Bytnara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Canaletta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Chałubińskiego . . . . . . . . . . .C5 Chełmska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Chłodna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B3 Chmielna . . . . . . . . . . .B-C5, D4 Chocimska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Chodkiewicza . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Chopina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Ciasna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Ciepła . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4 Cisowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Corazziego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Cybulskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Czackiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Czarnomorska . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Czeczota . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D10 Czerniakowska . . . . . . . . .G6, F5 Czerska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Czerwijowskiego . . . . . . . . . .E6 Czeska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Czubatki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C7 Daleka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Daniłowiczowska . . . . . . . . . .C2 Dantyszka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Dąbrowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Dąbrowskiego . . . . . . . . . .C9-10 Dąbrówki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Defilad pl. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 Długa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Dmochowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Dobra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Dolańskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1

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Dolna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Domaniewska . . . . . . . . . . .D12 Dożynkowa . . . . . . . . . .D9, E10 Dragonów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G7 Drużynowa . . . . . . . . . . . .D9-10 Dubois . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B1 Dworkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Dynasy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Dzielna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B2 Dzika . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1 Elektoralna . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C3 Emilii Plater . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4-5 Esperanto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A2 Estońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Etiudy Rewolucyjnej . . . .B10-11 Fabryczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Falęcka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Fałata . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Filona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D12 Filtrowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Finlandzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G3 Fińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C7 Floriańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Flory . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Foksal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Franciszkańska . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Francuska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Frascati . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Fredry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Freta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Frycza-Modrzewskiego . . . . .H1 Furmańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Gagarina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G8 Gallijska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Gałczyńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Gamerskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Gandhiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D10 Garażowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Gen. Andersa . . . . . . . .B1, C1-2 Genewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Gierymskiego . . . . . . . . . .F9-10 Gimnastyczna . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Giżyckiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Glogera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Głogowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Głucha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H2 Gołkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H11 Gomulickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Goszczyńskiego . . . . . . . . . .D10 Goworka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Górskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Górnickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Górnośląska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Górska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Graniczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Grażyny . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Grodzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Grottgera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Grójecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Gruzińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Grzesiuka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H10 Grzybowska . . . . . . . . . A-B4, C3 Hańczy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Hipoteczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Hoene-Wrońskiego . . . . . . .F5-6 Hoffmanowej . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Hołówki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Hoża . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D5 Hrubieszowska . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Huculska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Humańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Idzikowskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Iłżecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A11-12 Imielińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Inspektowa . . . . . . . . . .F12, G11 Irlandzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3-4 Iwicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8-9 Jagiellońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Jaktorowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Jakubowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G3 Jałtańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Jana Pawła II al. . . . . . .A1, B2-4 Jana Sobieskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10, G10-11, H12 Jankowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A10 Jaracza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F3 Jasielska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A9 Jasińskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Jasna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Jaszowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H11 Jaworowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10 Jazdów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Jazgarzewska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Jedwabnicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Jerozolimskie al. . . . .B-C5, D-F4 Jezierskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F6 Jezuicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Joliot Curie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D11 Joselewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1

Joteyki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Kacza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Kalatówki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Kaliska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Kamionkowska . . . . . . . . . . .H2 Kapucyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Karłowicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Karmelicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B2 Karolkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Karowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2-3 Karwińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Katowicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Kaukaska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Kawalerii . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G6 Kazimierzowska . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Kępna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Kielecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Kierbedzia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Kijowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Kilińskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Klonowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Kłopotowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Kolberga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D11 Komedy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8 Konduktorska . . . . . . .E9, F9-10 Konopnickiej . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Konstancińska . . . . . . . . .H11-12 Konstruktorska . . . . . . . . .B-C12 Konwiktorska . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Kopernika . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Korczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H11 Korzeniowskiego . . . . . . . . . .A7 Kostrzewskiego . . . . . . . . . .E10 Koszykowa . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-D6 Kościelna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Kotlarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Kozia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Kozłowskiej . . . . . . . . . . .G-H10 Koźla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Koźmińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Krakowskie Przedmieście . . . . . . . .D2-3 Krasickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Krasnołęcka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Kraushara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Kredytowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Kręta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Krochmalna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B3 Kromera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Krowia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Królewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D3 Królowej Aldony . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Króżańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Krucza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4-5 Kruczkowskiego . . . . . . . . .E3-4 Krymska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Kryniczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Krzywickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Krzywopoboczna . . . . . . . . . .D2 Ks. Poniatowskiego al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4, G3 Ksawerów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Książęca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Księcia Trojdena . . . . . . . . . . .A8 Kubańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Kubusia Puchatka . . . . . . . . .D4 Kwiatowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Langego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C12 Lądowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F8 Lekarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Lenartowicza . . . . . . . . . . .D-E11 Lennona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Leszno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Leszowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C7 Lewartowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .B1 Lewicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Ligocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Limanowskiego . . . . . . . . . .H11 Lindleya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Lipska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Lipskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Lisieckiego “Dziadka” al. . . .E1 Litewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Lorenza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Lubelska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G-H1 Lubkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8-9 Ludna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Ludowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Lwowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 Łazienkowska . . . . . . . . . . .F-G6 Łęczycka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Łomnicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8-9 Łotewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Łowicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Łucka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4 Łużycka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Łyżwiarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Mackiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Madalińskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Magazynowa . . . . . . . . . . . .C12 Maklakiewicza . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Malawskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Malczewskiego . . . . . . . . . .D10 Mangalia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G11 Maratońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Marcinkowskiego . . . . .F1-2, G1 Markowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Marszałkowska . . . .C3-4, D4-5 Marzanny . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Maszyńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Matejki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Mazowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3

Wa r sINSIDER a w I n s|i MAY d e r : 2013 0 1 – 3 1 M a r ch 2 0 1 1 WARSAW

Meksykańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Melsztyńska . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E8 Melomanów . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H8 Merliniego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Miączyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Miechowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Miecznikowa . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Miedziana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Miła . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1-2, B1 Miłobędzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Miodowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D2 Młocińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1 Młynarskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Mochnackiego . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Modzelewskiego . . . . . . . . .D11 Mokotowska . . . . . . . . .D6, E5-6 Moliera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Mołdawska . . . . . . . . . . . .A9-10 Moniuszki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Morskie Oko . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Mostowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D1 Myśliwiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5-6 Na Skarpie . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4-5 Nabielaka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F8-9 Nalewki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B1 Narbutta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Naruszewicza . . . . . . . . . .D-E11 Natolińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E6 Nehru . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Neseberska . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Niecała . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Niekłańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3-4 Niemcewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Niepodległości al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6-8, D9-12, E12 Niska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B1 Noakowskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 Nobla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Nowiniarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Nowińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1 Nowotarska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G9 Nowogrodzka . . . . . . . . . . .B-D5 Nowolipie . . . . . . . . . . .A3, B2-3 Nowolipki . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B2 Nowomiejska . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Nowosielecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Nowowiejska . . . . . . . . . .C6, D6 Nowy Przejazd . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Nowy Świat . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E4 Nullo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Nurska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Oboźna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E3 Obrońców . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Obserwatorów . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Oczki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C5 Odolańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E9 Odyńca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-E10 Ogrodowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B3 Okolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Okopowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1-2 Okólnik . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Okrąg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4-5 Okrzei . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Oleandrów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D7 Olesińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Olimpijska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Olkuska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Olszowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Ondraszka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7 Opoczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Ordynacka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E4 Orężna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Orla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3-4 Orłowicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4-5 Orzechowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Ossolińskich . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Oszczepników . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Padewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Panieńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Pankiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C5 Pańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 Parkingowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Parkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F8 Paryska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Pasteura . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Paszyna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A2 Pawia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B2 Pereca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4 Piaseczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Piekałkiewicza . . . . . . . . .G-H10 Piesza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Piękna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6, E5-6 Pilicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D10-11 Piłkarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9-10 Piwarskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10 Piwna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1-2 pl. Bankowy . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 pl. Defilad . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 pl. Grzybowski . . . . . . . . . .C3-4 pl. Konstytucji . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 pl. Na Rozdrożu . . . . . . . . . . .E6 pl. Narutowicza . . . . . . . . . . .A6 pl. Piłsudskiego . . . . . . . . . . .D3 pl. Teatralny . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 pl. Trzech Krzyży . . . . . . . . . . .E5 pl. Unii Lubelskiej . . . . . . . . .E7 pl. Zawiszy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 pl. Zbawiciela . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 pl. Żelaznej Bramy . . . . . . . . .C3 Platynowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Płatowcowa . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Pługa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7

Płyćwiańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Pod Kopcem . . . . . . . . . . . .H7-8 Pod Skocznią . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Podchorążych . . . . . . . . . . .F-G8 Podwale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1-2 Pogorzelskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Polkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Polna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6-7, E7 Pory . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G11-12 Poselska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Postępu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B12 Potockiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Powsińska . . . . . . . . . . . .H10-11 Poznańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Praski Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Promenada . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Prosta . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4-5, B4 Próżna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Prusa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Pruszkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .A9 Przechodnia . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Przemysłowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F6 Przyokopowa . . . . . . . . . . . .A4-5 Przystaniowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Ptasia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C3 Puławska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8-12 Pułku Baszta . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Pytlasińskiego . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Racjonalizacji . . . . . . . . . .B11-12 Racławicka . . . . . . . .A-B10, D10 Radomska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Rakowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D8 Raperswilska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Raszyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Ratuszowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Reja . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7 Rejtana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Rektorska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 Rokitnicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7-8 rondo Daszyńskiego . . . . .A4-5 rondo De Gaulle’a . . . . . . . . .E4 rondo Dmowskiego . . . . . .D4-5 rondo Jazdy Polskiej . . . . . . .D7 rondo ONZ . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C4 rondo Radosława . . . . . . . . . .A1 rondo Waszyngtona . . . . . . .H3 Rostafińskich . . . . . . . . . . . . .B8 Rozbrat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5-6 Róż al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Różana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E9 Różyckiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Rudawska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Rychlińskiego . . . . . . . . . . .C-D7 Rynek Starego Miasta . . . . . .D1 Rysia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Samochodowa . . . . . . . .C11-12 Sandomierska . . . . . . . . . .D-E8 Sanocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A9 Sapieżyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Saska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3-4 Schillera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Sempołowskiej . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Senatorska . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D2 Sewerynów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Sędziowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Sękocińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Sielecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8-9 Sienkiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Sienna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4-5, C4 Sikorskiego al. . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Sikorskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Skaryszewska . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Skaryszewski Park . . . . . . . . .H3 Skłodowskiej-Curie . . . . . . . .A7 Skorupki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Słoneczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Słupecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Służewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Smocza . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1-2, B2 Smolna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Smulikowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .F3 Sobieszyńska . . . . . . . . . .F9-10 Soczi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Sokola . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F3-G3 Solariego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Solec . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Solidarności al. . . .A3, B2-3, C2 Sozopolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Spacerowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Spartańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Spiska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B6 Sprzeczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1-2 Srebrna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Stanka al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Stara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Starościńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8 Stawki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B1 Stępińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F8-9 Stopowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Styki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Suligowskiego . . . . . . . . . .G7-8 Sulkiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F8 Syryńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Szara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Szarotki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Szczuczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Szczygla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Szkolna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3-4 Szpitalna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Szucha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Śliska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C4 Śniadeckich . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6

Śniegockiej . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Św. A. Boboli . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Św. Barbary . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Św. Bonifacego . . . . . . . . . .H12 Św. Franciszka . . . . . . . . . . .F3-4 Świętojańska . . . . . . . . . . . .D1-2 Świętojerska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Świętokrzyska . . . . . . .C4, D3-4 Tagore’a R. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Tamka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Tarczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B6 Targowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G1 Tatrzańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Teresińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Tłomackie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Tokarzewskiego . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Towarowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4-5 Trasa Łazienkowska . . .E-F6, G5 Trasa W-Z . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Traugutta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Trębacka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Trybunalska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Turecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Turystyczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Tuwima . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Twarda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4-5 Tyniecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Ujazdowskie al. . . . . . . . . . .E5-6 Urle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G11 Ursynowska . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E10 Walecznych . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Waliców . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B3-4 Wał Miedzyszyński . . .G4-5, H5 Wałowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Wandy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Warecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Warneńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Warszewickiego . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Waryńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D7 Waszyngtona . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Wawelska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7 Wąchocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Wersalska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5-6 Węglarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Węgrzyna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Widok . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Wiadukt Markiewicza . . . . . .D3 Wiejska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Wielicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E12 Wierzbickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Wierzbowa . . . . . . . . . .C2, D2-3 Wiktorska . . . . . .C10, D9-10, E9 Wilanowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4-5 Wilcza . . . . . . . . . . .C6, D5-6, E5 Willowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Winnicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Wioślarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Wiśniowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8-9 Witosa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10-11 Włoska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9-10 Wodna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Wolicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H9 Wolnej Wszechnicy . . . . . . A7-8 Wolność . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Wolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Wołoska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C12 Woronicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-E11 Wronia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3-4 Wrotkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Wrzesińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Wspólna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Wybrz. Kościuszkowskie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E2-3, F3 Wybrzeże Szczecińskie . . .E-F2 Wygodna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Wyzwolenia al. . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Zagórna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G5 Zajączkowska . . . . . . . . . . .E-F8 Zakopiańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Zakrzewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Zamenhofa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B2 Zamojskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G2 Zawrat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Ząbkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G1 Zbierska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Zdrojowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Zgoda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Zieleniecka al. . . . . . . . . . . .G2-3 Zielna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Zimorowicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Złota . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C4 Złotych Piasków . . . . . . . . . .G12 Zwierzyniecka . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Zwycięzców . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Żelazna . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3, B3-5 Żuławskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Żupnicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1 Żurawia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Żwirki i Wigury . . . . . . . . . .A8-11 Żytnia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Żywnego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Źródłowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2

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WARSAW INTERNATIONS Drawing professionals from home and abroad the mission of InterNations is to bring together ‘global minds’ and connect ex-pats from all walks of life. Covering 300 cities since first forming five years back, the InterNations group has become one of the most successful networking events of the ex-pat calendar.

• Monthly Mixers • Online Forums • Guides & City Info For news on the Warsaw chapter, how to join and what events are coming up, find out more about us at: www.internations.org

LOOKING FOR MR. RIGHT?

Slim, fit, good-looking black English gentleman (financier), 40’s, who lives and works in Warsawand London, would like to meet attractive female for sun, fun, laughter and adventure.

Please call or text Harry on: 0044 7598 550 771 or email: hm45@hotmail.co.uk

Tel: +48 22 702 10 72

facebook.com/warsawinsider

77

Stadion Narodowy

Żaryna Żaryna

Kulskiego Kulskiego

ChoCdhkod łyiaKłyam kieicwzaic BiaB iew Kaiem za ńień

WHY WARSAW?

You started off in Malbork, of all places…

I was seen as the most solid bet – the first guy on the program just rode off one day on his bike, even leaving his money on the table. Poland was a different world back then – one time I received a telegram! You’d get Russian traders with gold teeth coming down from Kaliningrad to sell junk out of car boots, you couldn’t get pasteurized milk, and I learned to wash my jeans with soap while wearing them in the shower. But I thought of it all as a great adventure.

You must have been a strange exotic fruit…

For about 4,000 people, I was the first American they had ever met, and I took that seriously. I didn’t have the cavalier attitude others on the teaching program had, and saw myself almost as a grassroots diplomat. While I don’t think others failed their country as such, I think they missed a great opportunity. The kids came to see me as a person, not a passport, and I count that as a real success. In those times, you could go months on end without seeing a native speaker. I had to learn Polish quickly or otherwise depend on the half dozen people who could speak English.

Indiana native Phil Goss arrived in ’91 on a Harvard teaching program, before moving into a fulltime media career. If you haven’t heard of him, you’ve certainly heard him…

Friends and family must have thought you were bonkers, moving out here…

In ’91 this was still a Soviet occupied nation.

You’d see Russian soldiers at the station, and while they didn’t bother anyone, they were still here. When the coup in Moscow broke out we were nervous – we didn’t know how it was going to end, or if we’d be on the next plane back.

Remember, Martial Law in Poland only ceased eight years before. But my parents were excited: I was fulfilling what they had dreamed of doing themselves.

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WARSAW INSIDER | MAY 2013

What are the perils of the industry…

For the voice work, you really have to check the texts. Of course, the in house expert speaks English, but they can’t always write in a rhetorically appropriate way that conveys the message in an effective and efficient manner. English language keeps things simple – not simple as in stupid, but simple as in direct. Poles have verbal diarrhea – they give too much info that detracts from the core.

What do you get up to when visitors show up?

Warsaw’s a great jumping off point to explore the rest of Poland – just drive safely, your results may vary! In Warsaw, I like to drive people around, show them Umschlagplatz, drive them to Arkadia and point to the Palace of Culture so they understand the sheer vastness of territory covered by the Jewish Ghetto. During the day, coffee in Old Town or on Nowy Świat or pl. Zbawiciela is great while at night, I love the area round Poznańska – bars like Kraken and Spiskowcy Rozkoszy: Warsaw’s great for these mom and pop small enterprises.

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

THE MAN BEHIND THE VOICE

Along the way you left teaching to pursue a fulltime media career…

I’ve done countless ads here: phones, banks, juice, etc., even voicing the latest Old Spice ad. I had a scene with a dog the other day: I had to make friends with the Labrador before; I’ve worked with firearms, golf equipment and had to smoke cheap cigars at 9 a.m. There’s been film roles, television work, you name it – bilingual improvisation is not for the faint of heart. With the voice work, there’s about three of us, to my knowledge, who consistently get the American work. Sometimes I get the job, sometimes I don’t, but it’s a friendly rivalry – no one keeps score.

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