Warsaw Insider December 2012 - The best of Warsaw 2012 issue

BEST OF WARSAW 2012

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december 12 (196)

2012

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DECEMBER 2012 Charlotte celebrate scooping an award at last year’s Best of Warsaw event

A YEAR TO REMEMBER

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oodbye 2012. It’s been exciting, hasn’t it? This was, after all, the year the world stopped (or bits of it, anyway) and finally gave Poland its undivided attention. EURO 2012 saw the global spotlight fall on PL, and while the glamor ties largely evaded the capital, that did little to prevent a festive air from settling over the city. Has Warsaw ever been so happy?

The football, however, wasn’t the only talking point this year – neither was it the only success. As improbable as it sounds, the local food scene started making ripples internationally, with an increasing number of magazines and papers reporting on the rise and rise of Warsaw’s restaurants. Not surprisingly, much of the publicity generated is down to Atelier by Amaro, and the news that the place is likely to soon claim the nation’s first Michelin star.

Three cheers for them, but let’s not forget the others.

Once upon-a-time dining in Warsaw was a nightmare sequence from which there was neither no end nor rescue – a stomach sloshing carousel of reject meat and skanky, mashed cabbage. Now though, the growing band of fooderati have cause to celebrate, and that’s thanks to the number of top restaurants that have hatched about town. This month, we’ve put the best of the best under scrutiny, and given away a few of Warsaw’s secrets along the way: yep, it’s that time of year, that time when the Insider gets all self-important and dishes out its Best of Warsaw awards. It’s been great fun sticking it all together, and we hope that’s reflected by a barnstorming issue.

So, that’s it, enjoy the mag, Christmas and whatever else you might get up to in December. See you next month.

Alex Webber

awebber@valkea.com

on the cover Warsaw went seriously foodie this year, and as a result we’ve got the best Best of Warsaw issue to date. Our cover reflects this new found taste for all things good, with Warsaw’s stunning skyline complimented by the very tools that have made eating out fun – at long last (see page 11).

(Illustration by Michał Miszkurka)

Insider’s Pick CHRISTMAS MARKET The best thing about Christmas is the opportunity it provides to drink, eat, and be rather merry, and there’s nowhere in Warsaw better suited to the pursuit of these pastimes than the Old Town’s annual Christmas market. With over 70 wooden stalls, food outlets and bars to choose from, and produce provided by sellers from Austria, Croatia, Germany, Lithuania, Slovakia, as well as Poland, a yuletide visit here is certainly recommended. Hot bowls of smelly bigos, Bratwurst, smalec and various cured meats and sausages are among the hefty treats available to stock up on for the long winter ahead. Hot mulled wine, regional beers, and warm winter beer are also on offer, with an indoor bar with long wooden tables protecting patrons from the cold weather outside. And if you’re scrabbling for last minute gifts, find a selection of gaudy trinkets and mountain handicrafts. facebook.com/warsawinsider

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what’s inside

DECEMBER 2012

11

LISTINGS

Culture

Restaurants

07 O pener Jarosław Betlej 08 Calendar Music, art and events around town 31 I nsider’s Pick Brasserie Warszawska 52 Hot Find

Shabu Shabu

Cafes & Wine Bars

63 Insider’s Pick

Ale Wino!

Nightlife

67

70

Insider’s Pick Pijalnia Whisky Hot Find Basen

Shopping

75 Insider’s Pick

Boudoir 26

11 Best of Warsaw

The Warsaw

Insider’s Annual

Food & Drink

Awards 20 Rest of the Best

Restaurants and bars that have

made a difference in 2012

Editor-in-chief

Art Director

Editor

Editorial Intern

Publisher Advertising Manager Key Account Manager Distribution Manager

26 Hotels

Celebrate New Year’s in style

whether in Warsaw or out 96 Why Warsaw?

Triathlete Ken Globerman

Alex Webber awebber@valkea.com Kevin Demaria kdemaria@valkea.com David Ingham dingham@valkea.com Karolina Kalinowska Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com Maria Pięta mpieta@valkea.com Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com

Contributors: Bartosz Bajerski Gill Boelman-Burrows Kit F. Chung Michał Miszkurka Paula Rewald Agnieszka Le Nart Ed Wight

Children

79 Insider’s Pick

Little Chef

Lifestyle

83 Insider’s Pick

Retro Spa 84 Street Index 85 Classifieds 86 Warsaw Map

Subscription 12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland. Orders can be placed with amichalik@valkea.com, tel. 22 678 9912

Printed by Zakłady Graficzne TAURUS tel. 022 783-6000

VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies. All information ©2012 Warsaw Insider.

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WARSAW INSIDER | DECEMBER 2012

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

FEATURES

24 Architecture

The Insider fits into the world’s

narrowest house for a talk with it’s

architect

Reviews: Jarosław Betlej 7

CULTURE EVENTS 7

Interview: Jarosław Betlej

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

He’s held exhibitions in New York and Switzerland, and his work has been snapped up by the likes of footballer Łukaz Podolski.

The Insider catches up with local based artist Jarosław Betlej.

Jarosław, you describe your style as ‘polaroid-izm’. Spill the beans…

JB: That’s what I call it, it’s not something you’ll find defined on Wikipedia. Anyway, it’s connected to two key issues close to my art. Firstly, I want people to think about my work – some of my paintings are easier in terms of understanding than others, some are more ambitious in their message. Secondly, the art itself – the format – reflects the times we live in. For instance, in the city, you might see a beautiful woman, let’s say. But then you turn around because a taxi is honking his horn. Next to it you notice a big billboard ad.

As a human being you have so many images to consider and process at the same time, so my work is about capturing everything you experience in one split moment.

So give us an example…

Ok, when I was in Greece I saw a beautiful monument. Next to it was a Citroen CV from the 60s, close by a small terrace, two men’s hats from the 70s on a couple of beach chairs.

That’s what made the whole impression. So I like having these multi-facets in my art, to get

people thinking about the message.

turn in our Polish passports.

Travel is clearly important to you…

Of course, I need unusual places to inspire me. Recently that’s meant traveling to Marrakech in Morocco. I can’t imagine going up to Mazury and setting a piece around a lake, a cow and a patch of a grass. For me I need a place that’s innovative. My travels make it easier for me to realize the same things, but from a different point of view.

You’re back now though…

Warsaw is extremely important to me. And where Poland is concerned, you can almost call it a small island – it’s the most international place in Poland and therefore extremely interesting. I don’t consider my art Polish, so to have this international influence here is great.

I hear your travels started early – you escaped communist Poland…

That’s right. Under communism there wasn’t any hope for anyone, so when I was 19 myself and the wife booked a ‘special recreation trip’ abroad – when the boat reached Germany I said to our tour guide, “cross my name off your clipboard, we’re not coming back.”

He was stunned: “so whose going to build socialism in Poland,” he demanded. “You are,” I answered. Before we knew it 14 other people on the cruise, people so unprepared they didn’t have toothbrushes, had joined us.

We all went to the nearest police station to

Do you have a favorite exhibition space?

Any place can be good, so long as it’s unusual – a place where people don’t expect to find art.

Which artists inspire you?

Picasso, Neo Rauch, Salvador Dali and Damien Hirst. In Italy he’d probably be called crazy, but over in Britain they’re more open to artistic innovation than probably any other country. And I love the way no one can imitate him – to do so they’d need the same moodiness, arrogance and bravery.

For more on Jarosław and to keep touch with his work and upcoming exhibitions, check his website at: www.jbetlej.com

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CULTURE CONCERT Imany Klub Stodoła, ul. Batorego 10 Former model Nadia Mladjao, now known as Imany, came to mainstream attention with her debut 2011 release The Shape of a Broken Heart. With a distinctive transatlantic voice she’s sure to win more fans at her first ever Polish concert. Tickets from zł. 90, available from eventim.pl

One of the oldest festivals of its kind in Europe this movie event aims to highlight human rights issues from across the globe. As well as providing the opportunity for viewers to see real life events on film this event also involves discussions with film-makers, NGO activists, experts, journalists and politicians.

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CONCERT

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THEATRE Peter Pan Teatr Capitol, ul. Marszałkowska 115 J. M. Barrie’s famous creation gets a Polish makeover this December courtesy of Arkadiusz Klucznik’s new adaptation.

This colorful fantasy musical contains all the old characters from the original including Tinker Bell, Wendy and Captain Hook, ensuring there’s plenty to enjoy for both kids and young at heart adults. Tickets from zł. 39, available from eventim.pl

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CONCERT WhoMadeWho 1500m2, ul. Solec 18 This electro-punk trio have performed alongside the likes of Daft Punk, Soulwax, Hot Chip and LCD Soundsystem since forming in Copenhagen back in 2003. This gig is their only performance outside Denmark this side of 2013.

CONCERT VAVAMUFFIN Klub Stodoła, ul. Batorego 10 As the name suggests these boys are one of Warsaw’s premier purveyors of reggae and dance hall. If Jamaican sounds with a Polish slant are what you’re looking this energetic live act is certain to provide it.

Tickets from zł. 42, availble from eventim.pl

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FILM FESTIVAL WATCH DOCS Human Rights in Film CSW, ul. Jazdów 2

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Moscow City Ballet Sala Kongresowa, PKiN, Pl. Defilad 1 Now an annual tradition this year’s visit of the Moscow City Ballet will see a performance of Tchaikovsky’s classic folktale of a princess cursed by an evil sorcerer. Tickets from zł. 90 available from ticketpro.pl

CONCERT Ania Dąbrowska Palladium, ul. Złota 9 Polish singer songwriter Ania Dąbrowska found fame on Polish TV show Idol and is now four albums into a stellar career, with her latest record Bawię się świetnie out now. As well as her own hits expect the soulful songstress to play covers from artists including Badly Drawn Boy. Tickets from zł. 55, available from eventim.pl

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BALLET

WARSAW INSIDER | DECEMBER 2012

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Christmas carols Zamek Królewski, pl. Zamkowy 1 Christmas wouldn’t be Christmas without the obligatory singing of out-of-tune carols. But if you’re looking for some top quality festive renditions look no further than the Chamber Choir from Warsaw University who will be providing a special concert conducted by famed band leader Andrzej Borzym.

CONCERT

CONCERT

ORCHESTRA

Glen Miller Orchestra Sala Kongresowa, PKiN, Pl. Defilad 1 Named after former big band leader Glen Miller, who went missing over the English Channel in 1944, this current incarnation is led by singer Nick Hilscher who, along with his orchestra, performs up to 300 shows a year.

Tickets from zł. 95, available from ticketpro.pl

CONCERT

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Formed in Bradford almost 50 years ago the band first found major stardom in the 1970s with hits including If You Think You Know How to Love Me and Living Next Door to Alice. This one’s not for the musical purists but if you like your guitar ballads with a slice of cheese you can’t go wrong. Tickets from zł. 80, available from ticketpro.pl

Warsaw Sounds Hard IV Klub Proxima, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 99 As the name suggests this one day festival is for fans of hard rock music with bands characterized by lots of hair and plenty of shredding. Among the groups at this year’s fourth edition are Hate, Lostbone, Hellectricity, Thesis and Magnificent Muttley.

Tickets from zł. 25, available from eventim.pl

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CONCERT Smokie Sala Kongresowa, PKiN, Pl. Defilad 1

Selah Sue Klub Stodoła, ul. Batorego 10 Acoustic guitar-playing singer, Selah Sue, was one of the most distinctive voices to emerge in 2011. The soulful Belgian comes to Warsaw on the back of a recent performance at a royal wedding in Luxembourg. Tickets from zł.

90, available from ticketpro.pl

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Disney “Fantasia 2000” Sala Kongresowa, PKiN, Pl. Defilad 1 Footage from animated Disney feature films will be accompanied by 120 singers and musicians from the Warsaw Symphony Orchestra and the Warsaw Technology University academic choir in this rip-roaring extravaganza of family-friendly entertainment. As the name suggests images and music from Walt Disney’s updated visual masterpiece Fantasia 2000 play a starring role. Tickets from zł.49, available from ticketpro.pl

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CONCERT Harlem Gospel Choir Sala Kongresowa, PKiN, Pl. Defilad 1 America’s premier gospel choir have traveled the world during their 26 years on stage performing for and with the likes of Elton John, Nelson Mandela, and Pope John Paul II. With big voices and renditions of religious tunes this should be an uplifting night. Tickets from zł. 80, availble from ticketpro.pl

ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF ARTISTS OR ORGANIZERS

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Media Patronage

MOVIES OPENING THIS MONTH 7 Frankenweenie Animation/Horror/Comedy. Dir. Tim Burton, with Charlie Tahan, Winona Ryder

Gerard Butler.

End of Watch (Bogowie ulicy) Drama/Crime/Thriller. Dir. David Ayer, with Jake Gyllenhall, Michael Peńa.

26 360 Drama. Dir. Fernando Meirelles, with Anthony Hopkins, Jude Law.

28 The Hobbit: An Unexpected Journey (Hobbit: Niezwykła podróż) Fantasy/adventure. Dir. Peter Jackson, with Ian McKellen, Martin Freedman.

Ongoing until December 13 EXHIBITION

Magda Cybulska “Sacred Images” at Fibak Gallery ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 5 This new exhibition of oil and acrylic paintings by Polish artist Magda Cybulska attempts to define the world around us, free of schedules and restrictions. The work on show has a distinctly primate feel and provides those in attendance an opportunity to get an up close look at one of Poland’s most talented up and coming artists. Since being founded in 2001 the Wojciech Fibak Gallery has garnered a reputation for supporting emerging artists and giving them the opportunity to present their work to a wider audience.

Killing Them Softly (Zabić, jak to łatwo powiedzieć) Criminal/Thriller. Dir. Andrew Dominik, with Brad Pitt, James Gandolfini, Ray Liotta.

Lay the Favorite Drama/Comedy. Dir. Stephen Frears, with Bruce Willis, Catherine Zeta-Jones.

14 Chasing Mavericks (Wysoka fala) Drama/Sport. Dir. Curtis Hanson, with Jonny Weston,

Trouble with the Curve (Dopóki piłka w grze) Drama/Sport. Dir. Robert Lorenz, with Clint Eastwood, Justin Timberlake.

ESCAPE THE CITY TRAFFIC, GET ON THE OPEN ROAD AND EXPLORE POLAND WITH GREAT CAR RENTAL OFFER. Contact: +48 22 572 65 65 www.avis.pl

reklama W_INSAIDER_05_2012_v2.indd 1

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2012-05-18 11:19:37 facebook.com/warsawinsider

PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

2012

It’s time, once again, for the Insider to climb off the fence, squeeze into its suit, adopt a businesslike tone and summon the best of Warsaw to come gather around. This year, in our mission to sort Warsaw’s wheat from the chaff, we’ve recruited the city’s top food blogs to join our jury – to that end, we’re endlessly grateful to Restaurantica.pl, Froblog and Warsawfoodie. Also joining our round table of panelists, we’d like to thank celebrity chef Kurt Scheller and TV cooking maestro Monika Mrozowska for taking time to sift through their favorites. But let there be no more faffing about: ladies and gents, we’re proud to bring you the latest installment of the Warsaw’s Insider’s annual food and drinks awards. The Best of Warsaw, reveal yourself! facebook.com/warsawinsider

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BEST OF WARSAW

BEST RESTAURANT DESIGN CONCEPT 13 (ul. Bracka 9)

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ituated on the top two floors of the city’s most exclusive department store this eatery unquestionably represents a high watermark in terms of restaurant design in Warsaw. Downstairs tree stump tables and modern, minimalist furnishings are arranged close to the large floor-to-ceiling windows which run along one wall, while a black well-stocked bar sits opposite a unique spiral staircase leading to the centerpiece restaurant above.

It’s here that Concept 13 really come in to its own, with everything down to the light fittings and wooden floors working seamlessly to create the stylish venue you’d expect of a Likus Bros initiative. As for the space age metallic bathrooms, they’re worth the visit alone.

WARSAW INSIDER | DECEMBER 2012

BEST NEW BAR SYRENI SPIEW (ul. Szara 10)

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PHOTOGRAPH OPPOSITE PAGE AND THIS PAGE BOTTOM BY KEVIN DEMARIA, ALL OTHERS COURTESY OF

ew venues divided opinion in 2012 as much as the whisky lover’s paradise that is Syreni Śpiew. Housed in a mural covered relic of the PRL regime, this two floor bar has managed to maintain its element of 70s chic while at the same time providing a genuinely unique drinking experience.

Upon entering you’ll be greeted by a neon pink mermaid before a left turn takes you to a long bar that in terms of quality spirits is as well stocked as any in the city. Evidence of this is the

MONIKA MROZOWSKA separate whisky menu which is divided up into regions of Scotland, Ireland and Japan, with the Insider’s personal fave being the single malt from Scotland’s oldest distillery: Glenturret.

On the top floor there’s another bar with a seating area and a full length balcony outside which comes into its own in the summer. The only debate surrounds the prices, which are by no means cheap. Then and again, good things rarely are.

BEST GOURMET GROCERY PICCOLA ITALIA (many locations, inc. ul. Francuska 11)

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taly finds itself a step closer to Poland with the expansion of the Piccola Italia brand, and Warsaw’s all the better for it. And in spite of a growing number of locations, you’ll find the best of the bunch on Francuska. With over 2,000 products on sale, browsing here can become a dangerous sport, not least if you have a predilection for cheese – once you’re in conversation with the sales assistant you’ll need thirty minutes to extract yourself from her kingdom: but this chatterbox is an expert, and it’s on her prompting you’ll

end up snacking on little taster portions before saying yes to pretty much everything.

But there’s also so much more: fresh pasta, gorgeous desserts, sauces and bases, in fact, everything you need to turn your kitchen into a fully-fledged corner of the Roman Empire. And should you be looking to swell your cellar, then the choice of wines is bang-on as well – have a glass in their sit-down section while pondering the selection.

TAMIKA (ul. Wolska 44)

Monika Mrozowska is a familiar face both on TV and in print, with several cookbooks in circulation and a regular cookery slot on Dzien Dobry TVN. Passionate both about nutrition and children, the Insider asked her to name her pick of Warsaw’s growing band of child-friendly, healthy eating restaurants.“Definitely Tamika,” says Mrozowska.

“Why? The children’s area is large and bright and kids can play safely for hours, use the slide, drive toy cars or take part in one of the many activities organized by Tamika: English lessons, for instance, Capoeira, workshops and art classes. And after all that, families can eat healthy, carefully prepared lunches that include both vegetarian and gluten-free dishes.” Perfect for kids and adults alike, special praise is reserved for the staff that make it all happen. “They’re always ready to help,” says Mrozowska, “and they create an atmosphere that fits perfectly with the tastes of the guests – both young and old.”

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BEST OF WARSAW BEST COMTEMPORARY POLISH ATELIER BY AMARO (ul. Agrykola 1)

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U KUCHARZY (ul. Ossolinskich 7)

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t’s not the first time this restaurant has snagged a Best of Warsaw award (last year: Best Restaurant Design), and there’s good reason for that: U Kucharzy is more than a meal, it’s an experience. Set in the former kitchen of the Hotel Europejski, where secret political meetings took place during Communist times, this venue is stuffed with history.

The food itself is text book Polish, with starters including herring and the piece de resistance: steak tartare, prepared at your table. The hefty mains which include deer, goose and lamb, are cooked in the open kitchen right in the face of diners – the chefs love a bit of showmanship, so expect Ramsay-style tantrums and fireworks when the orders start coming thick and fast. Welcome to Poland indeed.

BEST POLISH WITH STYLE ROŻANA (ul. Chocimska 7)

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olish cuisine doesn’t come served in a more refined, baronial setting than in Rożana.

Situated in a pre-war villa this two floor eatery is the ideal location to impress your dining

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WARSAW INSIDER | DECEMBER 2012

partners. In summer the beautiful garden out back acts as an impressive dining area, while indoors wooden floors, fresh flowers and beautiful candle-lit tables give off a classic charm in the best possible taste.

Yet it is the food that maketh the restaurant, and that is where Rożana excels. With indulgent mains such as farmhouse duck with apple and cranberry, or saddle of venison with homemade pickle, this is a Polish dining extravaganza served from the top table.

PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE TOP BY AN GOBÁN SAOR ALL OTHERS COURTESY OF

BEST WELCOME TO POLAND

owhere has put the modern Polish movement on the map in quite the same way as Atelier. “Everything important here is Polish,” says Chef Wojciech Amaro, and by that he includes the interiors, the cutlery and a bespoke vodka menu designed exclusively for the restaurant. Then there’s the ingredients Amaro scoured the nation for. “99% of menus here are based around 10 to 15 products,” says the chef, “but there’s much more – Poland is famous for edible flowers, herbs, wild game and mushrooms, but most people don’t realize.” Having researched recipes from the 16th and 17th century, he’s married forgotten ideas to the latest food technology.

BEST NEW RESTAURANT ATELIER BY AMARO (ul. Agrykola 1)

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ever before has a restaurant dominated the Insider’s Best of Warsaw awards in such the same way. Then again, never before has such dominance been justified.

“Poland has chefs that can cook at international level,” says the man behind it all, Wojciech Amaro, “but the challenge is to maintain that standard every day of the year – not just for one-off occasions.” World class is what Atelier strive for, and world class is what they deliver.

Not that you’ll catch anyone here referring to it as a restaurant. “I prefer to think of this as a culinary workshop,” says Amaro, “a place where things are created; where nature meets science.” But whether it’s a workshop, a laboratory or just a plain old restaurant, the bottom line is food will never taste the same again. This will not be the last award Atelier ever wins. facebook.com/warsawinsider

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BEST OF WARSAW

Immediately recognizable by his beret and whiskers, Swiss-born Kurt Scheller arrived in Warsaw in 1991, and masterminded the success of the kitchens in the Bristol, Sheraton and Rialto, before opening his own culinary academy in 2002.

In that time he’s become one of Poland’s best known chefs, and ideally placed to hand out an award for achievement. “Michael Goerdt brought me to Poland,” says Scheller, “and in my opinion has done more to carry Polish cooking forward than anyone else.” Working for Starwood Hotels, German native Goerdt managed the Bristol Hotel from 1992 to 1997, overseeing its re-launch and its development as one of the most famed hotels in the country. “In those days the local cooks weren’t bad,” says Scheller, “but they just didn’t have the chances to develop – Michael though gave these chefs that chance.”

Now back for a second stint at the Bristol, under Goerdt’s management the hotel’s restaurants continue to be a breeding ground for emerging talent. Congratulations sir!

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BEST RESTAURANT FOR BUSINESS MEETING

WARSAW INSIDER | DECEMBER 2012

CONCEPT 13 (ul. Bracka 9)

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usiness lunches don’t come any better than this: the restaurant’s five course set menu is a tasting sensation which changes weekly, and considering the quality of food on offer the zł. 50 price tag seems extremely reasonable. During the Insider’s most recent visit an exquisitely presented dish of truffle with Tome cheese was followed by seaweed and leek soup, then octopus risotto in white wine. A main of thinly-sliced rib-eye steak with fried mushrooms, tomatoes and potatoes was perfectly finished off with cinnamon ice cream and hot plums. Yes please!

With exemplary service, fantastic presentation, an array of fine wines, and a location on top of Warsaw’s most prestigious department store, no client can fail to be impressed by the opportunity to dine here.

PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE KEVIN DEMARIA. OPPOSITE NABO BY GILL BOELMAN-BURROWS. ALL OTHERS COURTESY OF

KURT SCHELLER

BEST WINE BAR JOSEPH'S (ul. Duchnicka 3)

MOST KID FRIENDLY NABO (ul. Zakręt 8)

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ocated in one of those trendy post-industrial spots, this wine bar and restaurant has worked extra hard to make a name for itself. And it’s no wonder, with the Mielżynski stronghold mere meters away. In spite of the competition Joseph Seeletso has established an entirely different set-up. Calling himself “the only boy from Botswana in town,” he has a wide selection of great wines – and flexible price points – in the affiliated shop, which guests can then take to the table to accompany a fine dinner of truly gourmet choices. After two years on the map, it’s broken the monopoly Mielżynski has traditionally held over Warsaw, and in the process become the best wine bar in town.

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he latest hot-spot on the family map, Nabo is run by a Danish couple, and its light and minimalist interior – designed by those who created R20 – lends itself to every occasion. But aside from its tasty and seasonal dishes, it’s the children’s corner that is causing the biggest commotion.

Whilst mum nibbles on homemade cakes and dad tucks into a perfectly cooked Uruguay steak, children enjoy freestyle drawing on the blackboard wall and expanding their vocabulary playing scrabble, whilst babies can be amused identifying colors and building blocks. Add to this its quiet location and small outdoor park across the road and Nabo truly is the perfect neighbor.

BEST CHEF WOJCIECH MODESTO AMARO Atelier by Amaro, ul. Agrykola 1

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oting in this category went to the wire, even so, that Wojciech Amaro emerged as victor came as no real surprise: here is a man with the keys to the universe. Acclaim for his restaurant has been widespread, global even. The recipient of a Michelin Rising Star after little more than three months of operation, Atelier is odds on to win Poland’s first ever Michelin Star in 2013. Of

course, it’s not been as easy as it sounds. “Before opening,” says Amaro, “I traveled 60,000 kilometers over 18 months to find the best Polish products.” The result is a changing menu designed to explore and challenge tastes, and a restaurant that is second to none. Hail the cult of Amaro. facebook.com/warsawinsider

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BEST OF WARSAW

CHAMPAGNE BAR

BY FLAMING & CO. (ul. Mokotowska 43

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ou’re right to expect champagne by, quite literally, the bucket load, but there’s also another reason to visit – cocktails the like of which you don’t expect in Warsaw. True, not everything they touch turns to gold, so it’s only right to start with a disclaimer – on our first visit, the Insider asked for a Dirty Martini only to catch the barman topping it up with olive oil. Oops.

So how come they’ve not just been exonerated, but crowned King of Cocktails? That’s largely down to the boys behind the bar, cool handed mixologists who’re not afraid to experiment – if that means they get it wrong sometimes, then so be it. True, testing their off-menu creations is an expensive occupation, but at least it’s compensated by magnificent creations that speak of talent and invention. Let there be no doubt: these chaps have taken the local cocktail experience to a level the city hasn’t seen before.

BEST RICH & PRETTY CLUB PLATINIUM (ul. Fredry 6)

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WARSAW INSIDER | DECEMBER 2012

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ituated in a historic old building behind Saski Park the interiors of this famed night club are all you’d expect from one of the city’s growing clutch of super clubs: garish neon chandeliers, dramatic pillars and high ceilings.

The music, depending on the night, flirts between old school funk, as well as house, breakbeat and other electronic flavors, though it’s the eye candy that elevates it above the competition. Game and gamine, this hedonists pleasure palace is the venue if you have a penchant for skinny models in pencil skirts, or a taste for sugar daddies marinating themselves in champers. For the ultimate experience, the glam VIP room is one big thrill.

PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE TOP BY KEVIN DEMARIA. ALL OTHERS COURTESY OF

BEST COCKTAILS

a painstaking perfectionism, as well as a confident creative streak that’s there to be applauded. Working in tandem with Andrzej Strzelczyk, Poland’s sommelier champion, he’s created the benchmark for Poland’s hotels.

BEST NEW HOTEL RESTAURNT LA ROTISSERIE ul. Kościelna 12

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ining in a hotel restaurant sounds like the sad, lonely pastime of the traveling salesman. In Warsaw, it’s not.

Unlikely as it seems, some of the best restaurants in the city are hotel-based, with La Rotisserie doing just enough to nose ahead of the rest. What sets it apart? Of course, it helps having a fairytale setting down a narrow New Town twitten, as well as a dining room that evokes the luxurious intimacy of a private residence. But such face value aspects do a disservice to the real star: step forward Executive Chef Paweł Oszczyk. Fronting La Rotisserie since 2004, Oszczyk’s ever changing menu reflects

OTHER NOMINEES BEST NEW BAR Champagne Bar by Flaming & Co. (ul. Mokotowska 43) Czarna. bar (ul. Sienkiewicza 4) Klubokawiarnia Towarzyska (ul. Zwycięzców 49) Znajomi Znajomych (ul. Wilcza 58A)

MOST KID FRIENDLY RESTAURANT Ciepło Zimno (al. KEN 49) Flaming & Co. (ul. Chopina 5) Kura Domowa (ul. Zwoleńska 3) Nowa Kuźnia (ul. Kostki Potockiego 24)

BEST WINE BAR Ale Wino (ul. Mokotowska 48) Enoteka (ul. Długa 23/25) Jung & Lecker (ul. Emilii Plater 14) WinKolekcja (ul. Olkuska 7)

BEST POLISH WITH STYLE Biała Gęś (ul. Belwederska 18A) Delicja Polska (ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 45) Dom Polski (ul.

Francuska 11) U Fukiera (Rynek Starego Miasta 27)

BEST WELCOME TO POLAND EXPERIENCE Folk Gospoda (ul. Waliców 13) Kompania Piwna (ul. Podwale 25) Pod Czerwonym Wieprzem (ul. Żelazna 68) Zapiecek (many locations)

BEST RICH & PRETTY CLUB Basen (ul. Konopnickiej 6) DeLite (ul. Konopnickiej 6) The Eve (pl. Piłsudskiego 9) Foksal XVIII (ul. Foksal 18)

BEST RESTAURANT DESIGN Bistro Warszawa (ul. Jezuicka 1/3) Bufet Centralny (ul. Żurawia 32/34) SAM (ul. Lipowa 7A) Socjal (ul. Foksal 18)

BEST RESTAURANT FOR A

BUSINESS MEETING Belvedere (ul. Agrykoli 1) Butchery & Wine (ul. Żurawia 22) Mielżyński (ul. Burakowska 5/7) San Lorenzo (al. Jana Pawła II 36)

BEST GOURMET GROCERY British Shop (ul. Emilii Plater 8) Kuchnie Świata (many locations) Marks & Spencer (many locations) Le Petit France (ul.

Zwycięzców 28)

BEST COCKTAILS

ul. Emilii Plater 49) Venti Tre (Hyatt, ul. Belwederska 23)

BEST CHEF Michel Moran (Bistro de Paris) Karol Okrasa (Platter by Okrasa) Paweł Osczyk (La Rotisserie) Robert Sowa (Sowa i Przyjaciele) Robert Skubisz (Amber Room) Robert Trzópek (Tamka 43) Agata Wojda (Opasły Tom)

BEST CONTEMPORARY POLISH

Colombia Bar (ul. Krucza 6/14) Paparazzi (ul. Mazowiecka 12) Panorama (Marriott Hotel, al.

Jerozolimskie 65/79) Pies czy Suka (ul. Szpitalna 8A)

Amber Room (Al. Ujazdowskie 13) Belvedere (ul. Agrykoli 1) Sowa i Przyjaciele (ul. Gagarina 2) Tamka 43 (ul. Tamka 43)

BEST HOTEL RESTAURANT

Brasserie Warszawska (ul.

Górnośląska 24) Concept 13 (ul.

Bracka 9) Soul Kitchen (ul. Noakowskiego 16) Sowa i Przyjaciele (ul. Gagarina 2)

The Oriental (Sheraton, ul. B. Prusa 2) Parmizzano’s (Marriott, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79) Platter

by Okrasa (InterContinental,

BEST NEW RESTAURANT

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REST OF THE BEST

Best burger: WarBurger

Everyone's a Winner!

Has there been a better time to live in Warsaw? Where once the capital was a one dimensional affair, recent times have seen the city emerge as an increasingly international city with food and drinks to match. Without further ado, the Insider staff bring you The Rest of the Best…

CHARLOTTE

It matters not if you’re easily

traumatized by the catwalk parade that is Charlotte. Open from seven on weekdays, it’s the place for a morning croissant. And if you’re armed with the latest Mac technology, all the better – join the other posers at the communal table. Located on Warsaw’s most happening roundabout, there’s no better place to indulge a hangover with a spot of eavesdropping.

Best Bakery SAM

After Charlotte showed the

city how to do it last year, bou-

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tique bakeries have sprung up across Warsaw like a rash of little toadstools. Best of the bunch is SAM, a cult project from the minds behind Café 6/12. Inspired by a baking course run by Raymond Blanc, the owners have taken baking to an art form. (ul. Lipowa 7)

Best Breakfast A. BLIKLE

It may not be the famed liter-

ary hangout it once was but in terms of a morning meal it still has no equal. It’s expensive, but with full English, American and continental style breakfasts like the ones on offer here it’s well worth the spend. (ul. Nowy Świat 35)

WARSAW INSIDER | DECEMBER 2012

Best Burger WARBURGER

Forget Year of the Dragon,

Warsaw’s been celebrating Year of the Burger – or more specifically, Year of the WarBurger. Edging the competition, this diminutive little cabin wins eulogies across the board for base-level prices, super friendly service and pimped up burgers that use gourmet ingredients. (ul. Dąbrowskiego 1)

Best Coffee RELAKS CAFÉ

Generally travelling by tram for a cup of Joe sounds excessive, but that’s exactly what you’ll be doing on discovering

Relaks. Expertly prepared, right down to the foam art, the baristas here use the finest imported machines and work only with fair trade, ‘specialty’ coffee. If you have time, the drip coffee is more than worth the wait. (ul. Puławska 48)

Best Curry CURRY HOUSE

It’s through happy little tears

the Insider declares Curry House as the overall victor in the local curry wars. The eye-watering vindaloo stands apart as Warsaw’s most macho curry, and the others don’t disappoint either. With this quality on show, it’s easy

ALL PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

BEST 9 AM SCENE

Best coffee: Cafe Relaks

to ignore the primary design and lunar location. (ul. Żeromskiego 81)

Best Dive Bar

Best Hipster Spotting

Grim, stinky and stuck under

The prime months for this

CZESKA BASZTA

a bridge, here’s a bar made for real drinkers. A Czech flavored collection of the best bottled beers and a rotating line of draughts mark it out as the perfect dive, as does the matey crowd of predominantly male beer geeks. (Wieżyca A-22, Most Ponietowskiego)

Best Dive Club SEN PSZCZOLY

A courtyard with an empty

bath tub leads on to a two floor affair catering to a wide range of tastes – so long as they’re alternative. Upstairs there’s a dance floor, vintage seating and toilets in old lifts; downstairs, the cavernous brick cellar is where the real

party happens. (ul. Inżynierska 3)

WARSZAWA POWIŚLE

former ticket-booth venue are in summer when the deck chairs outside provide ample opportunity for the city’s young to gather in an almost carnival-like atmosphere. Seen as the hipster Center of Power, a collective bout of outrage saved them from council threatened closure earlier in the year. (ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B)

Best Italian SAN LORENZO

We’d have faced serious re-

percussions had San Lorenzo finished with anything but the gold medal. Downstairs find the local Italian community lapping up beers and banter

while Serie A football plays in the background. The plush upstairs, meanwhile, is reserved for true epicureans: magnificent Tuscan dishes are delivered by the swooning waiters who, err, rome around. (al. Jana Pawła II 36)

Best Kebab EFES

Varsovians have gone kebab

crazy in recent years leading to numerous charlatan outfits offering substandard fare that doesn’t pass muster. Here though, the long lunchtime line proves what kebab connoisseurs have known all along: it’s still the best in the trade. (ul. Francuska 1)

Best Kid Café POMPOM

There’s more than an organic menu to recommend about Pompom. Explore forestto-city play environments

equipped with slides, rope bridges and a selection of Wendy houses, or join the dad’s and lads in the Nintendo / Wii room. How long, you may ask, will it be till parents start turning up here without the kids just to wallow in the color? (ul. Młynarska 13)

Best Live Venue PARDON TO TU

You’d expect a bar that sells

eccentric vinyl to provide it’s punters with top quality live music and Pardon To Tu doesn’t disappoint. The eclectic talent ranges from moody quartets to jazzy chanteuses; a perfect marriage of late hours and great bottled beers helps along the enthusiastic crowd of latter day beatniks.

(Pl. Grzybowski 12/16)

Best Middle Eastern LE CEDRE 84

Considering most of the

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REST OF THE BEST

Best pho: Pho Toan

competition excel at serving total dreck you’d guess this would be an easy decision – wrong again. Perennial favorite Le Cedre have made the judging process tricky with the launch of a new sibling on Solidarności – well, for no reason than it’s closer to our editorial team, it’s the newbie that pips the veteran. (al. Solidarności 84)

Best Pick-up Joint ENKLAWA

Forget internet dating and for-

get stalking the ex. Singletons should look no further than a trip down Enklawa, a classic cheesy disco that’s a guaranteed confidence shot for one night at least. Whether you’re male or female, there’s no better place to load up the rifle and go on the hunt. Lonely ones, the world is yours! (ul. Mazowiecka 82)

Best Pizza LA BUFALA

When you think about pizza in Warsaw an expression might come to mind: “pizza is like

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Best Shot Bar: Pijalnia

sex, even when it’s bad, it’s still pretty good.” Only sex and pizza should have standards. La Bufala makes you believe good sex can be found in Warsaw. Sorry, pizza. Even the simplest of pizzas – the margherita – proves this point with a perfectly baked thin crust, sweet sauce and golden mozzarella. (ul. Sienna 86)

Best Pho TOAN PHO

With piping hot bowls of pho,

alongside traditional salads, noodles, and the obligatory sajgonki, this is the go-to venue for steaming soups piled with meat. Run by a Vietnamese family who cut their teeth at the defunct Russian Market, it’s the real deal in more ways than one – with prices that rarely climb beyond zł. 15, it’s a bargain to boot. (ul. Chmielna 5/7)

selection, but it’s still the hangout of choice for students, creatives and even the English Language Press Club. Chilled out and downtempo, owners Zosia and Michał have created a legend out of this dinky two room affair. There’s too many beers to recommend, though the Rowing Jack diminishes quickly for a reason. (ul. Poznańska 7)

Best Shot Bar PIJALNIA

Opened this year Pijalnia tops

the list among the city’s growing band of shot bars. With four zlot shots, plenty of herring, and walls clad in commie sports reports it’s a home from home for Warsaw's hard-drinking night owls.

Whether six at night or six in the morning, you’ll usually find its standing room only in this most Polish of Polish experiences. (ul. Nowy Świat 19)

Best for Regional Beers

Best Smoothies

So it doesn’t have the biggest

Just how far Warsaw has

KWADRAT

WARSAW INSIDER | DECEMBER 2012

CAFÉ 6/12

evolved can be measured by Żurawia. Once a dark, skanky side street, it’s now a millionaires row of restaurants and offices. Functioning long before the media agencies moved in, Café 6/12 still serve Warsaw’s most exciting smoothies. (ul. Żurawia 6/12)

Best Sports Bar

WARSAW TORTILLA FACTORY

Spain didn’t win EURO 2012,

the Tortilla Factory did. Expats voted with their feet this year, transforming the place into a steaming, seething cauldron that captured the spirit of summer. Of course, it helped that landlord Niall put on a program of surreal entertainment that numbered tribal drummers and a flamboyant MC with a feathery boa – WTF indeed. And you know what, it’s blinding in season as well. (ul. Wilcza 46)

Best Steak

BUTCHERY & WINE

The hottest address of 2011

has maintained its form with an unrivalled selection of

Best Middle Eastern: Le Cedre 84

meat dishes from a chef who really knows his game. With steaks such as New York, Rib Eye, Wagyu, T-bone and Chateaubriand this bloodfest just keeps getting it right. (ul. Żurawia 22)

Best Sushi SUSHI ZUSHI

Newcomers be damned, the local sushi sector continues to be spearheaded by the same triumvirate of Tomo, Sakana and Sushi Zushi.

It’s a fine line between the three, but Zushi just make it over the finish line on account of their creativity. (ul. Żurawia 6/12)

Best Tapas CASA PABLO

So it doesn’t fit the mold of a

tapas bar, but it’s no surprise to learn Warsaw’s best tapas is found in the capital’s foremost Spanish restaurant.

The choice may be small, but there’s no faulting the quality of the ingredients nor the imagination of the chef.

If anything, the one surprise

is not enough people know about it – no excuses now. (ul. Grzybowska 5A)

Best Thai SUPAROM

When Warsaw’s Thai popula-

tion chooses this as their top performer you know they must be doing something right. All your favorites are included here, with plenty of hot, spicy exotica served inside warming, cocoon-like interiors. (ul. Marszałkowska 45/49)

Best Wholefood SURYA

Warsaw’s shifted towards

a healthier diet this year, and no-one does eco dining better than this lot. What food does make it into the oven (and that’s not much at all), is cooked at 42°C to ensure the healthy stuff doesn’t vanish. Making use of organic produce from local farms, the WOMAD credentials are furthered by pleasant scents and posters that urge people to ‘Get Vegucated’. (ul. Wałowa 3)

HONORABLE MENTIONS Best 9 am scene SAM

Best Italian Parmizzano’s

Best Bakery Petit Appetit.

Best Kebab Amrit

Best Breakfast Café 6/12.

Best Kid Café Kolonia

Best Burger Burger Bar

Best Live Venue Chwiła

Best Coffee Ministerstwo

Best Middle Eastern Sofra

Best Curry Namaste Old Town Best Dive Bar Plan B Best Dive Club 1500m2 Best Hipster Spotting Bufet Centralny

Best Pick-up Joint Plan B Best Pizza Socjal Best Pho Yummy Best for Regional Beers Małe Piwo.

Best Shot Bar Meta na Mazowiecka Best Smoothies Coffee Karma Best Sports Bar Legends Best Steak Downtown Best Sushi Tomo Best Tapas Ole Tapas Best Thai The Oriental Best Wholefood Café 6/12

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ARCHITECTURE

SIZE DOESN’T MATTER The tail end of October saw the unveiling of one of Warsaw’s most eagerly awaited projects – but blink, and you might well miss it.

Spanning an area of just 14 sq/m, what’s been dubbed as the world’s skinniest house has seen the international spotlight plunged on Warsaw. Measuring just 71 centimeters at its narrowest, the steel frame construction was opened

by Israeli author Etgar Keret, and will – if the correct permits are acquired – serve as a homefrom-home for visiting artists and academics. Blocking him inside his own creation, the Insider catches up with the brains behind the project, architect Jakub Szczęsny of the Centrala design studio.

BY ALEX WEBBER

You’ve heard the stories, now check it yourself!

The house will be open to the public on December 1st and 8th. Find it in the courtyard of Chłodna 22.

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WARSAW INSIDER | DECEMBER 2012

Great project Jakub, but what the hell were you thinking?

JS: It started with spotting a void on my way to Chłodna 25. I used to live around here, and saw the gap between this prewar Jewish tenement and a 70s co-op block. It was a fantastic representation of the Frankenstein nature of Warsaw. Well, I wanted to fill that space, to make those two buildings communicate and relate to each other. How? By adding life to that gap.

And the Etgar Keret link?

With this project I inverted the architect’s problem by designing the project then inventing the client – I decided the place was perfect for a loner, a hermit – a writer, and clearly one with a good sense of humor. The size of the place meant it had to be a short story writer, because obviously, you’re not going to be able to write big books in here. Then, of course, there was the Jewish aspect of the location in the former Ghetto. Etgar Keret seemed the perfect patron. He loved the idea, but even so I remember him saying: “Look me in the eye Jakub, it’s impossible.” I answered, “Well, why not try...”

It couldn’t have been easy…

Every stage had problems. The city of Warsaw was actually very generous, and were the first people to give us funding – they put up 30% of the cost. But finding the rest was hard.

Then there were the technical difficulties associated with building the place, and the battle for permits. To bypass aspects of the building code it was the idea of the city council to register the house as an art installation: that means though, you can’t stay inside it for more than four hours.

You’ve ended up splashed across international newspapers.

Were you surprised the story went viral?

It was a coincidence to be honest. This was never meant as a PR stunt or anything like that. It was an intimate project that suddenly took off when an American blogger mentioned it in one of his posts. I guess people are obsessed with things that are the largest, or the smallest, so the story went global.

I never imagined we’d have 2,000 people at the opening, or I’d be getting freaky emails about it – you know today an Indian couple messaged me asking how much it’d cost to stay here for a few nights.

What do you reckon to Warsaw’s modern day architecture?

Well, I’m quite critical – I studied in Paris, which is the cradle of criticism. The problem is, after communism there was a lack of residential planning, a lack of orientation and vision.

But in the last five or six years the modern architecture has improved. You’ve got to remember that it’s only been twenty years since Poland was forced to swim: we went from communism to some wild South American style of capitalism during which architects were designing whatever the private sector wanted. Now we’re emerging as a country that isn’t shaped by giant multinationals, so yes, things are improving.

What’s next for you?

Right now I’m working on designing a house that’s overgrown with trees! It’s in a natural heritage zone so we have a labyrinth-like design that passes through the trees and a series of micro patios that allow the vegetation to actually grow inside the house. There’s a lot of other stuff, as well – for instance, in New York I want to build a tower on a plot of 8 sq/m.

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HOTELS

Festive Breaks Here and There

With the New Year knocking on the door, beckon it in by booking a night somewhere special. The Insider checks out the options. BY ALEX WEBBER LOCAL LUXURY

H15 ul. Poznańska 15, Warsaw, www.h15boutiqueapartments.com. As you walk down Poznańska, there’s something about H15 that stops you dead in your tracks: a sense of history, a sense of style. But it’s not the 19th century I’m reminded of, which is when this building was originally finished, rather the interbellum. You imagine Jeeves & Wooster pulling up in a vintage Rolls Royce; even from the outside, it looks like the kind of place you’d arrive at by chauffeur. Sturdy whitewashed columns support a grandlooking balcony above which, engraved in the stonework, is a wreath wrapped globe. It’s that detail which reminds me that back in the 20s it would have been the polar opposite of the bumbling Wooster walking through the entrance. This served as the Soviet Embassy from 1924 to 1941, and that bas relief is a lingering reminder. Occupied by the Wehrmacht after the reds were evicted, it was this German presence that, ironically, saved the place from ruin in the wake of the Uprising.

But by the time the millennium dawned, the building

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WARSAW INSIDER | DECEMBER 2012

had fallen into disrepair, appearing like some sort of dark monster house you’d find on Murder Mile. Its fortunes, however, have now been gloriously revived, and since June of this year you’d have found it operating as H15: Poland’s most enviable residence.

Having booked in at a discreet reception, visitors walk through a glass-covered atrium, a chess colored room sprinkled with orange trees (real!) and pod-like seats. In winter, with snow tumbling from above, it promises to be magical. Sensitively restored, interior design was left to Mariola Tomczak and her talented eye is evidenced by the accommodation. Furnished with pieces by premium brands such as Pianka, Meridiani, Hayon and Serge, the apartments look original and well executed: clean lines, open spaces, and bold artwork from the hand of Rita Zimmermann.

“Our vision,” says General Manager Marcin Mazur, “is to make this a home from home.” To that extent H15 – so named after the CEO’s lucky number – has failed: this isn’t home, it’s heaven. Carefully thought out, even rooms facing the inner courtyard are bathed in light, while guests have

“ In winter, with snow tumbling from above, it promises to be magical” (H15)

the option of browsing the net using wireless keyboards connected to wall-mounted TV’s: who said chic and functional can’t work together?

The best though, that’s yet to come. Adding to the 35-75 sq/m lodgings, will be a 240 sq/m residence (inc. staff quarters), and a stunning rooftop penthouse with a 130 sq/m wraparound terrace. Yet as impressive as all this is, it’s the details that count: elements like a 110 year old French fussball table; five original Marilyn portraits shot by Milton Greene (they’re earmarked for the restaurant when it opens in December); and restored Soviet friezes in what was once dubbed ‘The White Ballroom’. It’s beautiful, it’s magnificent, and it’s become Poland’s top ranked hotel on booking.com.

Whether it’s short stay or long stay, it doesn’t matter. If you live down the road, pretend that you don’t. If you’re broke, save up. The bottom line: check in and check it out.

CASTLE RETREAT

Hotel Krasicki Pl. Zamkowy 1/7, Lidzabark Warmiński, www.hotelkrasicki.pl.

Lidzbark Warmiński isn’t the most magnetic destination.

Shelled heavily by the incoming Red Army, what survives of the Old Town doesn’t cover much more than a street. But there is a reason to visit, and that’s one of the best hotels in the country. Voted as having the ‘Best Design’ during the 2011 chapter of the European Hotel Awards, find the boutique Krasicki ensconced inside a red brick castle once used by the Bishops of Warmia.

Today the luxurious suites have been named after former guests, among them Napoleon and King Zygmunt III. Ringed by a swan-filled moat, the castle complex has it all, including a cellar space holding a hi-tech spa, a top class restaurant and a nightclub particularly popular with visiting Russians.

Escape the sight of their cement-footed dance moves by heading to the tower-top library: a dimmed and creaky space filled with historical scrolls and antique maps.

KRAKÓW HIGH LIFE

Hotel Stary ul. Szczepańska 5, Kraków, www.stary.hotel.com.pl.

Entered via a discreet doorway, the hotel doesn’t so much announce its presence, as whisper it. But don’t be tricked by the low-key façade. It’s right outside that the paparazzi found themselves camped during Euro 2012, primarily to spy on England’s traveling circus of footballers and playboys.

Quartered here for their ill-fated campaign, consolation for Rooney & Co. came courtesy of an elegant rooftop bar, and chic rooms that fuse history with now. That’s particularly

WARSAW PARTIES THIS NYE Basen (ul. Konopnickiej 6) R&B singer Monika Brodka and a host of DJs are providing the entertainment at Basen’s first ever New Year’s Eve party. Tickets from zł. 100 Le Regina (ul. Kościelna 12) A gourmet four course meal paired with wines picked by the Poland’s 2012 Sommelier Champion, Andrzej Strzelczyk.

Tickets, zł. 590.

Marriott Hotel (Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79) Three choices here: a four course dinner in Parmizzano’s with bubbly at midnight (zł. 290), an open bar at their Disco Fever event (zł. 690), or drinks and buffet in the sky high Panorama Bar (zł. 690).

Opera Club (Pl. Teatralny 1) This attractive basement club is offering all inclusive food and drink at their all- night event. Tickets from zł. 250.

Pl. Konstytucji City Hall is once again throwing a free outdoor party to help revelers bring in the New Year. Expect firework displays, and plenty of fading pop stars from home and abroad.

Platinium (ul. Fredry 6) This year Warsaw’s top rich and pretty club is inviting revelers to party like a superstar at their Hollywood themed event that includes an open bar and buffet. Tickets priced from zł. 300 standing, zł. 500 seated Sheraton Hotel (ul. B. Prusa 2) The famous New Year’s Eve gala returns with food provided at the hotel’s Olive restaurant by executive chef Arthur Grajbera and cocktails from SomePlace Else. Tickets from zł. 720.

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HOTELS

“ But if you don’t want to splash out, then do at least splash down: the top-level pool is a masterpiece” (Andel's) true of Room 100: the best in the house. Decorated with frescoes and friezes from the 15th century, highlights include a standalone tub right next to the bed.

Once a popular haunt of necromancers and alchemists, the vaulted cellars now house the spa, whose glories include a Bond villain pool and a chillout cave constructed from Dead Sea salt. Retain the sense of inner peace by swerving the lads and stags on the streets outside, and head to the ground floor bar instead – but bring a bag of diamonds to tip at the end: hiding on the drinks trolley, find 160 year old Louis XIII whisky, a snip at zł. 700 per measure.

CITY BOUTIQUE

Granary Hotel ul. Mennicza 24, Wrocłąw, www.thegranaryhotel.com.

Built in 1565 to serve as a brewery, the bad news is it no longer fills that function. The good news is, instead, it’s been turned into a stunning hotel. History has not treated the Granary kindly, and having just about survived WWII, albeit in a raggedy, ruined state, a fire finished it off in 1970. Left for decades as a ruptured ruin, recent restoration by Star Group Poland has handed it a new lease of life.

From the moment you cross the lobby, with its arced bricked ceilings and deep leather seats, one can’t help but feel dazzled. Rubbed and scrubbed after a session in their spa, retire to the restaurant where Chef Łukasz Dudziński impresses with his innovation. Of course, that’s provided you make it that far. The temptation at the Granary is to stay holed up, Howard Hughes-style, in one of the suites. Opt for deluxe and find yourself with the swipe key to a split level space with an angled glass roof and ample living area.

URBAN DESIGN

Andel’s ul. Ogrodowa 17, Łódź, www.andelslodz.com. Łódź isn’t the first name out of the hat when choosing a weekend break, and that’s never truer than in winter. Seen through a December haze its battered back alleys and gnarled, crumbling tenements hint that civil war has only just ceased. So remember, if you’re booking the Andel’s you’re not visiting Łódź, you’re visiting Manufaktura – a stunning self-contained city in a restored factory complex.

Flanking this gargantuan development is the red brick Andel’s, a one-time textile mill owned by the original oligarch, Izrael Poznański. A leftover from the Industrial Revolution, not long back this hulk was a derelict migraine. Restored to coincide with the opening of the Manufaktura shopping/ leisure compound, the interior design was overseen by Jestico & Whiles. Guests wander through infinite corridors

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WARSAW INSIDER | DECEMBER 2012

that pulsate with softly changing lights, before eventually arriving to pristine rooms splashed with bright vibrant colors and patches of brickwork. Upgrade to the maisonette to find yourself enjoying the same level of luxury as Shakira, Rihanna and other eminent guests. But if you don’t want to splash out, then do at least splash down: the top-level pool is a masterpiece, and specially constructed with a section peering off the roof. Check their web for more on their ‘Classic Cinema New Year’s Eve Ball’.

A GREAT ESCAPE

Pensjonat Kazimierski ul. Tyszkiewicza 38, Kazimierz Dolny, www.pensjonatkazimierski.eu.

There’s a right time to visit Kazimierz Dolny and a wrong time.

The wrong time is in the height of the summer. While the official population hovers around the 4,000 mark, when the sun comes out tourist numbers swell to harrowing proportions.

Come winter though, and the visitors go from a thick treacle to a gentle trickle. That, people, is the right time to visit.

A bewitching, riverside town, Kazimierz looks magnificent under a dusting of snow. And with the out-of-towners, well, out-of-town, you’ll find its many accommodation options at your mercy. Among these is Pensjonat Kazimierski, a woodtrimmed lodge with views of the Wisła. Harmonized to slot in with the architecture of the area, this relatively new addition to the landscape features modern trappings, attractive vanilla rooms and a wine bar / restaurant of growing repute.

For a one night quickie it’s hard to beat, a point certified by the number of Warsaw number plates parked just outside.

Info box

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New Year’s Eve by the Sea: From 1,1170 zł. per person!

The package includes: 3 days in a comfortable room with buffet breakfast, lunch and dinner Plus, the New Year’s Eve Ball: Dirty Dancing & Kings of the 70s & 80s!

Hotel Lidia

ul. Dorszowa 3, Darłowo tel. +48 94 314 30 38 www.hotel-lidia.pl

Take a risk, close the door and look inside – the Hotel Senator is an unforgettable experience!

Awake your sense and emotions while the band and DJ play… And roll the wheel of fortune, so that luck doesn’t dessert you in 2013 The New Year’s Eve Viva Las Vegas package includes: Three days in a comfortable room, two magnificent dinners, a New Year’s Eve ceremonial ball featuring fireworks, live music, lottery and much, much more!

HOTEL SENATOR

ul. Wyzwolenia 35 Dźwirzyno k.Kołobrzegu +48 (94) 35 49 444, www.hotelsenator.pl

New Year’s Eve in Hotel**** Pensjonat Kazimierski We offer:

• An open bar and delicious food • An unforgettable night in Kazimierz with an intimate atmosphere • Champagne fun until the morning!

And fantastic music!! ul. Tyszkiewicza 38 24-120 Kazimierz Dolny, Poland Tel.: 667 667 101 Email: rezerwacja@pensjonatkazimierski.eu

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BROUGHT TO YOU BY: ENOTEKA

Quinta de la Rosa – one of the biggest Douro stars

WARSAW INSIDER READERS CAN CHOOSE FROM A SELECTION OF THESE THREE OUTSTANDING WINES:

The Douro valley is famous not only for the fortified wine Port, but also for outstanding dry red wines, made from indigenous grapes like Touriga Nacional. by maciej bombol, owner of enoteka

T

he first legal vineyard delimitation (classification) in the world was that introduced to the Douro valley of northern Portugal in 1756. Classifications for Bordeaux and Burgundy emerged 31 years later. For over 200 years the demarcation in Douro applied only to the fortified wine Port, but in 1979 it was extended to cover unfortified wine as well.

Quinta de la Rosa is a beautiful estate in the heart of the Port winegrowing region in Douro, a short distance along the river Douro from Pinhão. The winery is run by Sophia Bergqvist with the help of talented winemaker Jorge Moreira. The Bergqvist family have been making Port since 1815. The modern story of Quinta de la Rosa as a producer of dry red wines begins in 1988.

Quinta de la Rosa remains one of the few Single Quintas where the vineyards start at the bank of the Douro river and rise to nearly 450m above sea level. From the river’s edge to the top, one passes through 11 different microclimates. It gives Quinta de la Rosa great flexibility to add variety and complexity to its Port and dry red wines. Quinta de la Rosa represents what the Douro is all about... pride, courage, tradition, and the determination to produce the finest wines in one of the most difficult climate conditions.

Quinta de la Rosa wines receive prestigious awards every year. For example, Quinta de la Rosa Reserva 2009 received the Decanter Award (“5 star wines”) and was ranked in 1st position amid 226 red dry wines from Douro tasted by Decanter critics. “Concentrated, uplifting and intense nose of mocha, dark cherry, herb, raspberry, blackberry and violet.

Powerful, mouthfilling fruit which is well defined and juicy. It shows real finesse underpinned by a sophisticated structure... 19.17pts/20” (Decanter, The world’s best wine magazine, May 2012). The same wine won a Gold Medal at the International Wine Challenge 2012 and 93 points from The Wine Advocate (Robert Parker). Kudos to Jorge Moreira!

The importer of these wines is Enoteka Polska, ul. Długa 23/25, Warsaw tel. 22 635 55 10, www.enotekapolska.pl Enoteka is one of the best restaurants in Warsaw, ranked in 8th position amid 700 venues in Warsaw

by TripAdvisor

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WARSAW INSIDER | DECEMBER 2012

Quinta de la Rosa Douro Tinto 2008 (a classic Douro red wine at zł 63)

Quinta de la Rosa Douro Tinto Reserva 2007 (a top Douro red wine priced at only zł 126.75)

Quinta de la Rosa Vintage Port 2007 (a great Vintage Port for the bargain price of zł 168 in our restaurant)

Reviews: Brasserie Warszawska 31 / Shabu Shabu 52 / Plus:

* 14 updates

RESTAURANTS

AFRICAN 31 / AMERICAN & TEX-MEX 31 / ASIAN 36 / BALKAN & RUSSIAN 40 / BRITISH 40 / BURGERS 48 / CHEAP EATS 40 / FOOD SHOPS 60 / FRENCH 41 / GREEK & MIDDLE EASTERN 42 / HOME DELIVERY 36 / INDIAN 43 / INTERNATIONAL & FUSION 44 / ITALIAN 48 / JAPANESE & SUSHI 54 / JEWISH 55 / LATIN 55 / POLISH 56 / SCANDINAVIAN 60 /WHOLE FOODS 62

KEY

Insider’s Pick

$ zł. 30 (per main)

BOW 2011 Winner.............

Breakfast menu .............

Business meetings.......... $$$ over zł. 55 Child friendly...................

Insider writers do Delivery............................. not accept any Free wifi.............................. form of payment in Map location pg. 94 ...... (A1) return for favorable Romantic.......................... reviews.

Vegetarian friendly........... $$ zł. 30-55

AFRICAN Café Baobab (H4) ul. Francuska 31, tel. 22 617 4057. Open 10:00-23:00. Café Baobab serves Senagelese classics like thiebu djen, mafe yap and yassa ginar. It’s adapted to Polish tastes, but say the word and authentic spiciness can appear. $

Brasserie Warszawska ul. Górnośląska 24, tel. 22 628 923, brasseriewarszawska.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 8:00-last guest.

utchery & Wine marked a new type of dining experience in the capital when it opened back in 2011 and now Daniel Pawełek and his sister Marta Jakubowska have come up with another innovative venue set to compete on the city's culinary map.

Situated in the heart of Warsaw's diplomatic district this location once housed the builders of the Palace of Culture, before becoming a Communist-era eatery, evidence of which is found in the original framed menu from 1979. More historical influences can be found in a black and white print of workers at the Warszawa car plant, with the automobile theme carried on at the restaurant's top-drawer bar which features high chairs with miniature 50's style leather car seats, an impressive array of original cocktails such as the Warsaw Martini and spirits including a single cask whisky from Japanese distillers Nikka. But while the bar acts as a place to eat and drink it is at the tables and booths that the political deals and networking were being done during Insider's visit. The interior, which includes a black and white tiled floor, zinc mirrors and an extra room through original antique doors, gives Brasserie a French feel but without any of the stuffiness.

However, as with all good eating establishment it is the food that proves to be the major selling point on a menu that changes daily depending on what's fresh. Starters include Ham hock terrine with quail’s eggs and Gribiche sauce, or Irish mussels with chips, but the pick of the bunch are the outstandingly tasty fried Fine de Claire oysters on a bed of fennel. Mains are fish and meat based with pan fried Barbarie duck breast with chicory and plum a definite standout. Yet the English influence of an owner who once worked at London's Dorchester Hotel shines through on Friday's dish of the day – fish and chips, as well as the apple crumble and custard desert with ice cream which comes with a sharp but rewardingly tangy taste.

With a varied breakfast menu, Belgian beers chilling in the fridge and an exemplary wine selection, expect Pawełek’s latest venture to scoop more awards. (DI)

PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE KEVIN DEMARIA, OPPOSITE PAGE COURTESY OF ENOTEKA

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La MaMa Africa (C1) ul. Andersa 23, tel. 22 226 3505, www.lamama.eu. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-last guest; Sun 13:00-24:00. The exteriors don’t go beyond some tribal paintings and exotic lamps, while parts of the menu will frighten the life out of you – baked cow back, for example, sounds like a cooked spinal cord.

Our beef/tomato stew was excellent, but the goat meat saw plenty of tactical napkin use.

And good luck with the gizzard. $$

AMERICAN & TEX-MEX Amigos American Steakhouse (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 119, tel. 22 629 3969, www.restauracjaamigos.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-24:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-23:00.

Sometimes, all you need is a good steak to make everything okay. This is not the place to find one. Usually disappointing, occasionally catastrophic, this Wild West eatery gets nil points for style, and even fewer for service. $$ Champions Sports Bar (D5) Marriott Hotel, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 5119, www.champions.pl. Open 11:00-23:00. Long-known on the Warsaw scene as a sports bar – ideal for large groups

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RESTAURANTS of large guys drinking large amounts of beer and watching a large-screen TV. $$ Dos Tacos (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, tel. 22 243 4618, www. dostacos.pl. Open 11:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 11:0024:00. Warsaw’s newest Tex Mex outing has been earning perfect 10s from the Insider’s who’ve visited. $ Hard Rock Cafe (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, www.hardrockcafe.pl. Open 9:00-24:00.

Instantly recognizable by the giant neon guitar outside, this leviathan touts excellent burgers and a pierced staff of skater boys and rock girls. Rock’n’roll swag numbers Joplin’s blouse, Prince's guitar and Shakira’s pants. $$ Jeff’s (B8) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 32 (Pole Mokotowskie Park), tel. 22 825 1650, www.jeffs.pl.

Open 10:00-24:00. Warsaw’s best breakfast aside, head to Jeff’s for megasize portions of American classics of the

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burger-ribs variety. Find their twin branch in Galeria Mokotów, along with an identical roadhouse design of blinking neon. $ Sioux (D4) ul. Chmielna 35, tel. 22 827 8255, www.sioux.com.pl. Open 10:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-23:00. You might want to point the shotgun hanging on the wall at the chef.

Decorated with horseshoes and feather headdresses, the only reason to show up is to humor a nagging infant. Food-wise, it’s little more than a cowboy-themed version of Sphinx: mass market food for those who don’t know better. $$ Someplace Else (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6707, www.someplace-else.pl. Open Mon 12:00-24:00; Tue-Thur 12:00-01:00; Fri & Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 12:00-23:00. After a summer sabbatical, SPE are back, touting a new edgy look that makes use of concrete colors and exposed pipes. The spicy, sizzlin’ Tex-Mex is fab, and added incentive provided by the rousing rock bands. $$

WARSAW INSIDER | DECEMBER 2012

Tex Mex ul. Zwycieczów 11. Open Mon-Sat 10:0022:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. Featuring a street level take out window and a glum looking basement area, Tex Mex is an underwhelming experience where everything from the tortillas to the salsa taste like something you’d pick up in a supermarket. And, of course, there’s the obligatory dollop of Polski-style salad loaded with gherkins. $ T.G.I. Friday’s (B3) al. Jana Pawła II 29 (Atrium Plaza), tel. 22 653 8360. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-24:00; Sat & Sun 12:00-24:00. The steaks are a miss-and-miss affair, but the burgers are always on-point inside this classic piece of stars & stripes vulgarity. $$ Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46 (entrance from ul.

Poznańska), tel. 22 621 8622, www.warsawtortillafactory.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. The habanero salsa looks and tastes like molten lava, and is just right when paired with their hefty burritos. But it’s

RESTAURANTS Home Delivery Delivero www.delivero.pl Here’s the score: enter your postcode, then wait for the computer to kick into action and spit out the restaurants covered in your delivery zone. In general, the restaurants now err to the side of pizza and sushi choices. Internet ordering only, with no English language option.

Dominos Multiple locations, tel. 22 209 0000, www.dominospizza.pl. Open 10:00-23:00. They’re back! Years after shutting shop the Dominos crew return to Warsaw, and this time they’re better than ever. It’s strictly takeaway/delivery only (unless you count the stand-up table outside), but these guys get listed for what amounts to the best delivered pizza in the history of Poland.

Pizza Portal www.pizzaportal.pl Nationwide service and similar to Delivero: tap in your postcode then wait for a list of choices to crunk out of the machine. As the name suggests, pizza is the forte, though there are also a heavy selection of randoms – kebabs, sushi, pierogi. 24hr pizza delivery options also available.

Room Service tel. 22 651 9003, www.roomservice.pl.

Deliver to over fifty restaurants under their umbrella, and can also turn their hand to delivering wine, beverages and flowers.

Web and phone orders taken in English and Polish, with delivery charges tagged between zł. 13 to zł. 25. Find venues like Blue Cactus, Le Cedre, Namaste, Sense, Sushi Zushi, Tomo and The Warsaw Tortilla Factory.

Royal Menu tel. 22 244 2121, www.royalmenu.pl.

Phone and internet delivery options, plus English language website and English speaking telpehone operators. Min. order of 50zł, with delivery charges ranging from 10zł to 24zł (Warsaw outskirts). Credit cards accepted for orders of 80zł plus.

Restaurants covered by this mob inc. players such as India Curry, Na Zielnej, Osteria, Papaya and Sakana.

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more than Warsaw’s premier Tex Mex joint; a firm ex-pat bastion, the barometer goes off the scale at weekends when live bands entertain a mixed bag of jiggling foreigners and hot locals. $$

ASIAN Asia Tasty (C3) pl. Żelaznej Bramy 1, tel. 22 654 6120.

Open 9:30-21:00. One of the great secrets of culinary Warsaw – for those In The Know this is the place for cheap, cheerful Asian food. Not that it looks like much, this is as basic as interiors get; leave the hot date outside while you pick-up a takeout. $ Bar Sajgon (D4) ul. Bracka 18. Open Mon-Thurs 9:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 9:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-21:00.

A cult budget eatery once found in the defunct Russian Market. Two years after the original went pop they’re back with a neat looking effort on Bracka. Decorated with palms and mint colors, this double decker restaurant gains particular approval for its pho dishes. $ Bliss Restaurant (D2) Rynek Mariensztacki, tel. 22 826 3210. ul. Twarda 42 (off Rondo ONZ), tel. 22 620 3519, www.blissrestaurant.pl. Open daily 12:00-22:00. Longevity aside, Bliss (alive since ’95) boast classically cliche interiors that make dramatic use of dragons and buddhas.

Inconsistent accuse some, though you’ll struggle to find better Chinese-style ribs. $$ Canton (B2) ul. Smocza 1, tel. 22 838 3823, www.canton.warszawa.pl. Open daily 11:0022:00. Here’s what Chinese restaurants used to look like in the days of Bruce Lee: filled with dragons and lanterns, this place is an outright assault on your sensory system. Wokking away for over a decade, it’s actually not a bad place if you want an MSG booster. The Gong Bao chicken gets approval. $$ Cesarski Pałac (D2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 9707, www.cesarskipalac.com.

Open Mon-Fri 12:0023:00; Sat 12:30-23:00; Sun 12:30-22:00. A rouge looking Chinese eatery whose design even incorporates a foot bridge. The menu is exhaustive, and the whole Peking Duck is

WARSAW INSIDER | DECEMBER 2012

money well spent if you’re in a group. Head downstairs to snoop around Tshingis Chan, an all-you-can-eat Mongolian grill. $$ China Garden ul. Kazachska 1, tel. 22 241 1010, www.chinagarden.pl. Open daily 12:0022:00. Allegedly the first Jiangsu cuisine restaurant in Warsaw, the tastes at the China Garden are indeed unique. On show here is everything from bull’s testicles boiled with soy sprouts, goose jaws and stewed bull’s penis with radish – I dare you. $$ Du-Za Mi-Ha (D4) ul. Widok 16, tel. 22 826 1871. A compact Vietnamese joint noted for fresh, healthy nem filled with crunchy, perky fibers. The pho, on the other hand, is disappointing – according to one reader, “awful”. Prices begin at around zł. 10 and don’t go far north of zł. 20. You get what you pay for. $ Dziki Ryż (multiple locations) ul. Puławska 24b, tel. 22 848 0060, pl. Inwalidów 10, tel. 22 839 2540, ul. Wspólna 35, Tel. 22 628 1825, www.dzikiryz.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. Varied Asian cuisine with dishes from India, Thailand, China and Japan in a very charming setting. All locations of Dziki Ryż are popular and you’ll most likely need a reservation. $ Dżonka (D5) ul. Hoża 54, tel. 22 621 5015. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat & Sun 11:00-17:00. You say Thai and he says Chinese. You say somewhere graceful and he says nowhere showy. You say not too pricey and he says not too shoestring. Then sail into Dżonka. $ Fusion Perfect (D5) ul. Wspólna 35, tel. 22 628 1825. Open 12:00-24:00. If rumor is to be believed, the owner is the guy who once created the Dziki Ryż empire. The choice covers all the bases, the tastes are convincing and the restaurant looks like a typical mid-market Asian: subdued lighting and dark woods. All it needs now is a few more customers to fill out the tables. $$ Little Thai Gallery (D3) Pl. Dąbrowskiego 2/4, tel. 22 827 4410, www.littlethaigallery.pl . Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 13:00-21:00. High gloss violet interiors and cute elephant candle holders lend this place no shortage of style.

The food can be a hit and miss affair, though the curry dishes are usually every bit as good

as they sound. So too the green tea ice cream. $$ Loving Hut (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 41A, tel. 888 555 568, www.lovinghut.waw.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. What looks like just another Vietnamese greasy spoon is, in fact, part of a global chain backed by a spiritual master. The reading material is creepy and cultish, but the vegan food is good if you’re that way inclined. $ Natara (B3) Al. Solidarności 129/131, tel. 666 101 500.

Open 10:00-22:00. With a few wilting orchids and some symbolic pics of Buddha this bi-level restaurant won’t be in the running for any style prizes. The food is spot-on though, and after a brief panic during which we considered ordering everything – it all sounds so good – the Insider settled for duck in wine and a classic green curry. The results were outstanding: rich, velvety flavors and complex tastes. $$ The Oriental (E5) The Sheraton Hotel, ul. B. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6705. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-15:00, 18:00-23:00; Sat 18:00-23:00; Sun 12:0016:00 (brunch). Dark and elegant the wild pricing does a lot to keep The Oriental quiet.

It is, however, well worth the hefty fee with fantastic pan-Asian food that’s up there with the best – maybe even the best. Popular with Thai diplomats and hushed hotel guests, it’s an experience that’s worth the BEST quite considerable splurge. $$$ WAWA 2011 “Sunday Brunch” Winner Papaya (E4) ul. Foksal 16, tel. 22 826 1199, www.papaya.waw.pl. Open daily 12:0024:00. Papaya’s uncluttered, contemporary club-style space is classy with hints of luxury imparted by the strategically placed, top-notch cognac and sparkling wine. The Pan-Asian menu favors Thai and Japanese, but there’s also Chinese dim sum and Peking Duck. $$ Pekin Duck ul. Drawska 29A, tel. 22 412 8988, www. pekinduck.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. Looks like a typical Chinese – i.e., like a 1980s New Year’s Eve ball – and the service is carnage; expect lots of miscommunication and truculent attitude. The food isn’t bad, though it’d be interesting to know how many pigs feet they actually ever sell. $$

Shabu Shabu Hot Pot ul. Mokotowska 27, tel. 535 685 750.

Open 12:00-23:00. Each table has its own set of hot pots installed and once you choose your broth and extras, you are the master of your own culinary destiny. We chose some seafood and some greens and were served a dish that was not quite a pad thai, but incredibly tasty all the same. A simple meal, but satisfying nonetheless. $

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Silk & Spicy ul. Żurawia 16/20, tel. 22 629 7012. Open 12:00-last guest. A beautiful looking Asian eatery that’ll be getting the full Insider treatment next month. In the meantime, according to the graphic, “the curry was on taste-wise, but the cream cheese didn’t work in the sushi and the kmichi-style salad served at the beginning was very pedestrian for such a place.” See how our secret luncheonette fares in Jan. $$ Sunanta Thai Restaurant (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2216, www.sunanta.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-21:00. Small but perfectly formed interiors and a menu that’s widely hailed by Thai devotees. The green beef curry is outstanding. $$ Suparom Thai (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 45/49, tel. 22 627 1888, www.suparomthaifood.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. Lovely interior with Siamese gold ornaments and gleaming dark wood.

The shrimp cakes are always worth a try. $$ Suparom Thaifood II ul. Wałbrzyska 40, tel. 22 853 3087, www.suparomthaifood.pl. Tiny, when compared to its parent on Marszałkowska, and distinctly unassuming. Suparom’s green curry is the ‘best in the world’ according to one reader, and while such a superlative begs for a challenge, none is forthcoming – not from us, anyhow. $$ Tien-Tien (C2) ul. Długa 29, tel./fax 22 635 3888. Open daily 10:00-22:00. A stained and seedy haunt that will look immediately familiar to readers who’ve strayed before inside Warsaw’s Vietnamese joints. Some rate the food - we don’t. $ Toan Pho (D4) ul. Chmielna 5/7, tel. 888 147 307. Mon-Fri 9:30-23:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00. Toan Pho’s bowls of soup with rice noodles come highly recommended; as does the chaos intrinsic

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RESTAURANTS to this type of casual Asian eatery. The short menu is in Vietnamese with Polish decoding – although you can ask for an English version. $ Yummy (D5) ul. Wilcza 20. Open 10:00-22:00. The Insider’s favorite budget Asian eatery, even if the empty tables suggest dark forces at work in the kitchen. Modern and minimal, the lemon chicken is delicious and the pad thai is a sure bet. $

BALKAN & RUSSIAN Banja Luka (E8) ul. Szkolna 2/4, tel. 22 828 1060, www.banjaluka.pl. Open 12:00-24:00.

Numerous meaty dishes from Serbia and Croatia are served inside a Banja Luka, a Warsaw stalart who’ve moved with the time and... moved. The new, central location is as pleasing as the last, with lots of clunky timber and imported ceramics. $$

Cheap Eats Bar Turecki “Efes” (H4) ul. Francuska 1, tel. 22 616 2580. Open daily 10:00-20:00. So it’s a kebab shop, but when the kebabs are this good they’re well worth the listing. Either join the queue outside, or head indoors to sample the smattering of grill food and salads. $ Cheng Way (D4) ul. Chmielna 10, tel. 22 899 1626. Open 11:00-20:00. Imagine a Franco/Vietnamese translation of Subway and you have Cheng Way. Loaded with generous Asian fillings and sauces, the baguettes here are spot on. $

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Fabryka Frytek ul. Złota 3, www.fabrykafrytek.pl. Open Mon-Thu 10:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 10:002:00; Sun 11:00-22:00. Giant portions of Belgian fries (up to 600g!), waffles, wedges and whatever else you can make out of a potato served come served with an equally comprehensive range of dips and sauces. $

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Meat Love ul. Hoża 62, tel. 500 149 210. Open SunThu 10:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-23:00. A small menu of magnificent baguettes, filled with fresh greens and a choice of tasty meats – roast beef, pulled pork and porchetta to name but a few. Served on wooden boards by young friendly staff, it’s the lunch stop Warsaw has been missing. Subway? Never again. $ Okienko ul. Polna 22, tel. 603 771 483.

Open 9:00-22:00; Fri 9:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00. Food through a hatch with

pride of place going to fantastic Belgianstyle fries served with a comprehensive choice of sauces (top marks to the jalapeno). Large portions are zł. 10, and do just the job on post-pub munchies. $ Soul Food Bus Corner of Mazowiecka & Świętokrzyska.

Open Fri & Sat 22:00-4:00. You can’t miss this place: it’s a big red truck/bus. Their m.o is simple enough. Eleven types of burgers, and seven quesadillas, served from late until even later. Note they do move around and the open hrs are subject to change – Facebook them for their latest GPS. $ Mr Pancake (E3) ul. Solec 50, tel. 888 021 888. Lurking amid the side streets of Powiśle, the pancakes here are brilliant and come with a heap of toppings and funny faces traced into them with icing sugar. Who cares if the staff wander around like they’ve just smoked a bong – it’s great. $ To Tu Dumpling Bar ul. Niekłańska 33, www.chinskapierogarnia.pl. Open 10:00-21:00. Set in a ropey looking pavilion To Tu excels when it comes to dim sum. The kim chi soup is pretty special as well. $ Wurst Kiosk (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 17, tel. 606 133 134.

Open 11:00-22:00; Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-19:00. Authentic German sausages served through a hole-in-a-wall with big dabs of mustard and fresh bread. The currywurst is fabulous, and there’s also Belgian-style fries. $

Babooshka (E3) ul. Oboźna 9, lok. 102, tel. 22 406 3366; ul. Krucza 41/43, tel. 22 625 1040, www.babooshka.pl. Open 10:00-22:00.

This is one of those places that you enter knowing straight away that you want more.

Try the bacon-and-tomato-scented Solanka soup and the pielmieni “Moskiewskie.”

The no-frills interiors buzz with vodka tinged high jinks. $ Czojhona (B5) ul. Twarda 56, tel. 22 401 1303, www.czojhona.pl. Open 10:00-22:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. Specializing in Uzbek cuisine Czojhona offer an interesting menu that starts with meatball soup before leading to unfamiliar dishes such as lamb piled on top of rice, dried apricots, raisins and carrots.

Verging on the bland side, one feels they may struggle in this graveyard location. $ Gemo ul. Minska 25 (Soho Factory), tel. 22 468 1876, www.gemorestaurant.pl. Open 12:00last guest. At last, a Georgian restaurant without gnarled furniture and peasant fabrics. Located inside Soho Factory, Gemo has severe, industrial style accented further by steel lights and exposed pipework. The menu is modestly priced, yet includes several dishes to return for: the szaszlyk, for one. $ U Madziara (B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 620 1423, www.umadziara.pl. Open 11:00-21:00.

Looking at it you wouldn’t expect much, but there’s a reason the homely U Madziara has won the applause of Maciej Nowak – Poland’s toughest food critic. That reason is Gabor, a top chef who’s happy to join customers for a drink… but only after he’s done the biz in the kitchen. The salmon tartar is a great starter, but nothing compared to his signature goulash.

Good luck finding a better deal in Warsaw. $ Varna (D6) ul. Lwowska 4, tel. 22 468 8792. Open 12:00last guest.There’s a few Bulgarian joints in town, but none that look this good; decorated with rich, ruby colors and Balkan embroidery the interiors are primed for an all-singing Balk-fest. The menu is cheap and cheerful, with the full list of hearty, homey classics.

The musaka is peerless. $

BRITISH The British Bulldog (D4)

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WARSAW INSIDER | DECEMBER 2012

ul. Krucza 51, tel. 22 827 0020, www.bbpub. pl. Open 8:00-1:00. The pub design is wonderful, and straight out of Midsummer Murders with its Chesterfield sofas and Cutty Sark mirrors. But it’s been a downhill disaster since they lost the original management team. What could have become Poland’s original gastro pub now serves greasy burgers and, judging by the stench at the bar, lots of food that’s way over-fried. $$ Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640, www.legendsbar.pl. Open 12:00-last guest.

It’s a British pub first and foremost, but don’t forego the kitchen either. The all-day breakfast is a great way to stoke up your drinking powers, while other dishes of note inc. pies, sausages and mash and, of course, fish and chips. $$

FRENCH Bistro de Paris – Michel Moran (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 22 826 0107,

www.restaurantbistrodeparis.com.

Open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00. Bistro de Paris has always won the highest accolades from reviewers ranging from the Insider to Michelin. Here the food is exquisite, dynamic and flawless; whilst the service itself shines through all on its own. Perfect for dinner with the boss or wining and dining clients. $$

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Chez Belier ul. Mickiewicza 9, tel. 22 400 22 11.

Open 12:00-24:00. Designed by Maciej Zień – Poland’s undisputed King of Fashion – Chez Belier looks five star with its immaculate blend of black and white colors, crystal lights and orchids. The menu is a compact affair, and is perfect in every respect: from presentation to taste. Modern and international, the offer numbers a fabulous tuna steak served on a bed of mango salsa. $$$ L’Arc (E8) ul. Puławska 16, tel. 503 171 682, www.larc.pl. Open 10:00-last guest. An

elegant white/black eatery with elaborate plate presentations and crustaceans lurking in the water tank – the house specialty is lobster, and they’ve got it to a tee. $$ Prowansja (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, tel. 22 621 4258, www. prowansja.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-23:00. No need to go to a French cottage, the calming atmosphere and great food is right here. The dishes are imaginative, and combine the best of Mediterranean and French cuisine to create beautiful combinations and tastes. The chefs have been known to get experimental in their cooking techniques, though the renovated interiors remain pleasingly traditional. $$ Saint Jacques (D4) ul. Świętokrzyska 34, tel. 22 620 2531, www.saintjacques.pl. Open 12:00-23:00.

Warsaw’s had a long liaison with France, yet the cuisine remains under-represented. This bistro plays the right notes with an intimate interior sprinkled with street signs and life-size black and whites of distant day Paris. $$

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RESTAURANTS Willa Borówka Hotel & Restaurant

grilled lamb chops. $$

deli counter. $

Le Cedre 84 (B3) Al. Solidarności 84, tel. 22 618 8999, www.lecedre.pl. Open 11:00-23:00.

Legendary Le Cedre have a new venture, and this one looks even better than the original over the river. Deep plum colors work well inside, and we recommend turning up with a group of friends and splitting the Baalbak (six cold starters) or Byblos (six hot starters) menu. Aside from a candid A-Z of this cuisine, it’s a great opportunity to cover the tables with fancy little plates before causing a right mess amongst you as you share and share alike. $$

Santorini (Saska Kępa) ul. Egipska 7, tel. 22 672 0525, www.kregliccy.pl/santorini.php. Open daily 12:00-23:00. Forgetting the rather dubious exterior, Santorini – decorated like a Greek fishermans tavern – remains one of the top restaurants of its ethnic class. The lamb chops are fab, but for a real plate licking experience order the milfei as dessert. $$

(Milanówek)

ul. Królowej Jadwigi 5, tel. 22 425 3881, www.willaborowka.pl. Restaurant opens Mon 17:00-last guest; Tue-Sun 12:00- last guest. A wonderland outside of Warsaw. This beautifully-restored manor offers a wonderfully rich atmosphere and wonderful Belgian and French cuisine with delicious beers like the Blanche de Namur. $$

GREEK & MIDDLE EASTERN El Greco (B3) ul. Grzybowska 9, tel. 22 654 0458. Open 11:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-23:00. The grapevine was right – there’s a new Greek in town and it’s the best of the bunch; the souvlaki are ace and the interiors modern, intimate and a pleasant departure from the Greek caricature.

Plate smashing allowed and encouraged. $$

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Paros (D4) ul. Jasna 14/16, tel. 22 828 1067. Open 12:00-23:00. Out of all of the Warsaw’s Greek contributions Paros dazzles most, with a glitzy look that’s a complete u-turn from the typical tawerna look. Owned by the same team behind El Greco, the menu is identical, as is the quality – good to excellent. $$

Sofra (C6) ul. Wilcza 71, tel. 22 628 0782. Open 8:00-last guest. The design looks great, even if it plagiarizes Charlotte a touch (white brickwork, blackboard, communal table), and it even has the same chattery buzz. So the surprise here is the food is Turkish, and not just any Turkish, but excellent Turkish! The lamb and beef in tomato sauce is already part of the Insider diet, and the moussaka not far behind. But forget the word diet when it comes to dessert – the cherry chocolate cake is outstanding, but a menace to the beltline. $

Samira (C7) Al. Niepodległości 213 (behind the National Library), tel. 22 825 0961, www.samira.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 12:00-18:00.

If you make the effort to find it, you’ll spot ambassadors, celebrities and artists scarfing down their excellent Lebanese kofta. Here you will find chickpeas, tahini paste, bulgar wheat, grape leaves, rose and orange flower water. Fresh cheese (Lebanese and Bulgarian) can be bought by weight from the

Tawerna Patris Miedzeszyński 407, tel. 22 357 11 11, www.tawernapatris. pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00.Looking dusty and disheveled from the outside, Tawerna surprises everyone who visits.

Decorated with white plaster walls and pics of Greek harbor towns, the seafood starters

Le Cedre (F1) Al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166, www.lecedre. pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00. With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer.

Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-

ul. Senatorska 27 tel. 22 827 97 07 www.cesarski-palac.com.pl

ORIGINAL CHINESE CUISINE

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WARSAW INSIDER | DECEMBER 2012

are something else. It’s impossible to judge what’s better: the mussels in tarragon or the marinated octopus. With prices this moderate, we suggest you order both. $$

INDIAN Bombaj Masala (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 606 688 777.

Open 11:00-23:00. A definite applicant for Poland’s best looking Indian, and instantly superior to Warsaw’s more shabby curry houses. The tikka masala is love at first bite, though the spice lever on the Madras needs jacking up. $$ Buddha (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 23, tel. 22 826 3501, www.buddha.info.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00.

The days of the Raj are recreated in Buddha, a fine-looking curry house with intricate interiors and top-drawer curries. The murgh masala jhodphur is our favorite, a bottom burning curry that appears as ‘ouch’ on the spice scale. $ Curry House ul. Żeromskiego 81, tel. 508 870 774. We like restaurants to have a bar, not bars – but despite the Alcatraz atmosphere of this glorified cage, the lack of toilet, the absence of beer and the ludicrous waiting times, this has become the Insider’s favorite curry house! If you want to blowtorch your face order the vindaloo, far and away the hottest curry in Poland. For softies the butter chicken is highly recommended. $

Ganesh (D5) ul. Wilcza 50/52, tel. 22 623 0266, www.ganesh.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. Wildly inconsistent in terms of food and service. At a recent convention of the New Warsaw Curry Club the jalfrezi went untouched and murgh hara masala didn’t fare better.

Nonetheless, the madras was declared Warsaw’s best and the murgh makhanawala destroyed in minutes. Design-wise, the chic dark décor places it a cut above most of the competition. $$ Ganesh Express (A4) ul. Grzybowska 61, www.ganeshexpress. pl. Open 10:30-22:30. Dinky, readymade portions aimed for a lunch-on-the-run crowd. Yes, the meals are pre-cooked, but the standard has been raised, alcohol introduced and the prices moderated. $ Himalaya Momo (F1) ul. Ząbkowska 36. Open Mon-Thur 11:0021:00; Fri-Sun 10:00-22:00. There’s only four tables here, so don’t linger. The size means several staples have been cut from the menu, among them naan bread – there’s no space for a tandoor over, you see. What kind of Indian restaurant forgets a tandoor oven? In this case, a very good one. What does appear on the Tibetan / Indian menu is usually delicious. $ India Curry (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 438 9350, www.indiacurry.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00.

They’ve changed management once

again, and that’s to the detriment of the restaurant. Once the corporate choice for when suits wanted it hot, the gradual decline has extended to the décor – looking dark and tired it’s a shadow (literally) of its former self. $$ Maharaja India (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 34/50, tel. 22 621 1392, www.maharaja.pl. Open daily 12:00-23:00.

A bedraggled looking old-timer set inside some showpiece Soviet concrete. Oily, unstimulating curries are the order of the day, so it’s surprising to learn the butter chicken is amongst the best in the city. $$ Mandala (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 9/11, tel. 662 019 666, www.mandalaklub.com or www.indiaexpress.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 13:00-21:00. Whether the Madras is Poland’s hottest curry is a moot point (we say not).

What isn’t up for debate is its popularity.

Keen portions ensure you’ll be leaving with a doggy bag, and while we’ve yet to have anything outstanding, neither have we experienced anything under par. Internet ordering and delivery through their India Express catering service. $ Namaste India (D1, D5) ul. Piwna 12/14, ul. Nowogrodzka 27, tel. 22 696 3856, www.namasteindia.pl.

Open Mon-Thur 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:0004:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. If waiting times are anything to go by this is quite probably the most popular curry in town, and yes, pretty

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RESTAURANTS much everything they make is of gold star standard. Find the original, more modest version on Nowogrodzka, and a (very) slightly more upmarket offering in Old Town. $ Parivar al. Waszyngtona 75, tel. 22 393 4104. Open 11:00-22:00. The squid sizzler has the taste and texture of chewing gum, and the vindaloo is cunningly disguised as a bowl of red water with some chicken floating in it. “I get better curry on the oil rigs,” opined the Insider’s balti expert. For all of that, the biggest disappointment is Parivar’s apparent success. $ Saffron Spices (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 3, www.saffronspices.pl.

Open 11:00-23:00. Set on two floors Saffron has a menu more limited than most, though they have at least finally introduced alcohol.

The murgh makhani is fiercely inconsistent, and the chicken, in the words of one reader, ‘strange’. Nonetheless, we like it – when the chef does get it right, this place scores well. $$

INTERNATIONAL & FUSION 12 Stolików (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 519 151 504. Open 9:00-23:00. Affecting a chichi style, the look here is clean, crisp and scattered with lifestyle titles and autumn leaves. And forming the central element is the kitchen – yes, here’s a place that embraces the credos

that cooking should be theater. The menu comes chalked up on a board, and while the alio olio was a little overcooked, the big guns were out for the steak – fabulous. Definitely one to watch. $$ Bagno Food & Wine ul. Bagno 2, www.bagno2.pl. Open Mon-Fri 7:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-22:00. With its huge windows and stark style you can’t help but think Bagno would work best in summer; all it takes is a grey Warsaw day to cloak this place in gloom. Which is a shame, as the food (and wine) really work here.

Our steak was nicely done, with a flavorful mushroom sauce and thick baked potatoes on the side. $$ Bistecca ul. Branickiego 11, tel. 22 258 1243, www.bistecca.pl. Open 12:00-23:00.

A warm and welcoming meat-themed restaurant, featuring one of the largest pieces of steak we’ve ever seen. But if you don’t fancy being chef for the night, stay away from the mixed grill – after a few moments of confusion we realized we were meant to finish the cooking process ourselves; a novel idea, but not what we had in mind when we went out for the evening. $$ Bistro Warszawa (B1) ul. Jezuicka 1, tel. 22 635 3769, www.bistrowarszawa.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. The menu cites pre-war recipe books as its influence, and on it you’ll find such dishes as goose in thyme

sauce with pear and zucchini. The interiors are strictly contemporary though, with vanilla colored furnishings, wine racks and walls papered with hundreds of theater scripts and book pages. Regular jazz performances draw crowds from across the city. $$ Boathouse (G4) ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 389a, tel. 22 616 3331, www.boathouse.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:0022:00. For the supersize treatment head to Boathouse, a leviathan restaurant set in three acres of riverside parkland – perfect for lazy Sundays with family and friends.

Freshly re-opened after a winter break, during which time Chef Luc has traveled the Mediterranean sourcing the best ingredients and snooping out new recipes. $$ Bufet Centralny (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34, tel 523 749 160. Open 12:00-2:00; Sat 12:00-6:00; Sun 14:00-24:00.

With white tiles, an artsy carpentered bar and draftsman desk lamps hanging from the walls, Bufet certainly gets points for design.

The Hungarian fish soup is delicious, while the chocolate soufflé is airy, gooey and all things nice. But choice diminishes quickly – get there early to order the ribs. $$ Butchery & Wine (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 502 3118, www.butcheryandwine.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00. A year on and this is still the restaurant everyone is talking about.

Having scooped the award for Gazeta Wyborcza’s restaurant of the year, reservations are essential. Served on wooden boards by staff in butcher’s aprons, the steaks are beyond reproach. $$ Brasserie Warszawska ul. Górnośląska 24, www.brasseriewarszawska.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00.A posh looking bistro whose classic credentials are supported by crisp shirted staff, gleaming surfaces and chessboard colors. Kick off with a crab cocktail before getting stuck into the grill dishes. At zł. 110 the New York Steak is pricey but worth every cent. Not that that’s a surprise – Warszawska is the latest project of Daniel Pawełek, the face behind the award winning Butchery & Wine. $$ C.K. Oberża (D4) ul. Chmielna 28, tel. 22 828 4585, www.ckoberza.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:0024:00; Sun 12:00-24:00. A wood-looking eatery where towering plates of food

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WARSAW INSIDER | DECEMBER 2012

present considerable challenge to carnivore appetites – come hungry. All the basic culinary needs are covered, while the Cesarska Deska Mięs features practically every animal to ever come out the wrong end of an abattoir. $$

pipes. The menu is a creative, light bite affair with dishes like gyutataki served to a hip crowd who’ve outgrown nearby Plan B. $$

Concept 13 (D4) ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7373. Open 12:0023:00. Perched on the fifth floor of the Vitkac luxury department store, Concept 13 has a look that’d be approved of by any lifestyle mag: hardwood floors, glass and plenty of open spaces. The menu is contemporary and cleverly direct, five course set lunch menus from zł. 50. Modern designer dining rarely gets better. $$$

Downtown Restaurant (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental Hotel, level 2), tel. 22 328 888. Open daily for Breakfast 6:30-10:30; Mon-Fri Business Lunch 12:00-15:00, Sat Lunch 12:00-15:00, Sunday Brunch 12:30-16:00. Dinner 17:30-22:00 every Mon-Thurs. There’s now a few candidates for Warsaw’s best steak, and Downtown have certainly upped the erm, stakes, with their new menu. Appealing to the serious spender, the US Longhorn (a cool zł.

185) is utterly unforgettable. Try it with orange whiskey sauce. $$$

Delikatesy Esencja (F7) ul. Marszałkowska 8, tel. 22 480 8018, www.delies.pl. Open 8:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 8:002:00; Sun 8:00-23:00. A long, narrow space that’s a mix of bar, restaurant and ‘culture’ cafe – only this looks better than most. No second hand collectibles here, just a cool look accented by concrete colors and overhead

Flaming & Co. (E6) ul. Chopina 5, tel. 22 628 8140, www.flaming-co.com. Open 7:30-24:00.

A superb eatery seemingly styled by Ralph Lauren. Winning rave reviews across the board, find a strong international offering and even a small playground in the park that it views. $$

GR Bistro & Restaurant (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8 (enter from Górskiego), tel. 22 828 4285, www.grbistro.pl.

Open Mon-Fri 10:00-24:00; Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun 11:00-23:00. Tucked next to the Wedel chocolate palace, GR isn’t short on charm and intimacy. Step upstairs where the restaurant unfolds into an attractive area set out with leather chairs and vintage photography. With little more than four mains ever appearing on the card the menu can’t be accused of showboating; the dishes that do make it on though win universal praise – the chicken medallions come served with lime sauce and fresh figs, and the combination works excellently. $$ Grill & Co (B9) ul. Żaryna 2B (Milllennium Park, Building C), tel. 22 646 0045, www.grill-co.com.

Open 12:00-last guest. Featuring plexiglass seats and clean, dark woods this place could easily be mistaken as one of the trend

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RESTAURANTS dens on Mazowiecka. A top (m)eatery, the filet mignon is perfect, and served with generous sides. Prices, too, are pleasingly moderate. $$ Groole (D6) ul. Śniadeckich 8, tel. 795 633 626, www. groole.pl. Open 12:00-20:00. You’ll find potatoes served everywhere in Poland, just not in the way we like them: i.e., with a crunchy, crispy skin and lots of hot, melted goo. Groole fill that gap with jacket spuds loaded with toppings such as spicy cherry tomatoes or chicken curry. A revelation! $

BROUGHT TO YOU BY:

La Fromagerie Bistro & Deli ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 465 23 24 Open Mon-Thurs: 9:00-20:00; Fri: 9:00-21:00; Sat: 10:00-21:00; Sun: 11.30 - 16.30

A Savoie cheese, Raclette derives its name from the word racler (meaning to scrape), which describes the way mountain people cut this cheese. The rind is dark-beige, while the pate is firm, uncooked, unpressed and comes with a seductive light yellow color. Once melted the taste is creamy, fruity... a sheer delight. To enjoy it to its fullest gather around a table, cut the cheese in half and then melt it over a heating apparatus. Serve the melted cheese with baked potatoes or cooked and cured meats, for it to demonstrate all its famed gustative qualities.

Find it now available at: La Fromagerie.

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Kaprys (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 578 2232, www.restauracjakaprys.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Like their service, Kaprys have had a slow start. We had a five minute wait for the menu, in spite of being the only customers.

The design looks formal and unimaginative, and the menu includes a bit of everything – it’s hard to define the cuisine. Our beef carpaccio was tasty, but sea bass – served with head, eyes et al. – was off-putting, and the potato wedges almost certainly from a bag. $$ Kultura (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 22/23, tel. 784 044 051. Open 11:00-23:00.

An initiative from the connecting artsy cinema. Looking slick and polished, creative effect is added by the use of colorful umbrella-style lights, while away from the frontline find the hard work done by the former chef at Dyspensa. And yes, it’s a dream team in the kitchen, with desserts and cakes fixed by those who made Café Misianka the legend it is. $$ La Rotisserie (C1) ul. Kościelna 12 (Le Régina Hotel), tel. 22 531 6000, www.leregina.com.

Open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, 12:00-23:00; Sat & Sun 7:00-11:00,12:00-23:00. Incorporating ‘French techniques, Polish products and Italian influences,’ chef Pawel Oszczyk has created one of the top dining rooms in Warsaw, a comfortable space that’s both intimate and plush without ever appearing over-indulgent. The the tuna tartar is a magnificent starter, and the venison faultless. Enhancing the chef’s talents is Andrzej Strzelczyk, one of Poland’s top ranked sommeliers. $$$ Likus Concept Store (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18, tel. 22 492 7409, www.likusconceptstore.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00. This former bath house is adorned by columns and hand-painted glazed ceramics. A fine menu of fusion fare with an ‘artsy flair’ is guaranteed, with creative desserts to follow with. Over 300 Italian wine labels (not to mention tipples from Spain, France and Austria), as well a selection of cigars make Concept a number one choice for that all important meal. $$$ Masz Gulasz ul. Piękna 15, tel. 22 370 2550. Open MonSat 11:00-22:00. Magda Gessler continues

WARSAW INSIDER | DECEMBER 2012

her campaign to takeover Warsaw with the opening of Masz Gulasz, a warm looking midmarket eatery whose menu comprises chiefly of thick stews and goulash.

Merliniego 5 (E10) Restaurant and Wine Bar, ul. Merliniego 5, tel. 22 646 0849, www.merliniego.pl. Set up like a New York bistro, Merliniego 5 is a cross between a whisky bar and steakhouse. It’s sophisticated, but not snooty and has some truly excellent steak and salad. $$

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Moonsfera ul. Wybrzeże Gdyńskie 4, tel. 22 560 3733, www.moonsfera.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. You’ll find fancy-looking Moonsfera at the top of the Olympic Center, and the panoramic views figure high on the draw. The international menu is an explosion of creativity, with dishes including duck breast served with ginger and carrot puree, caramelized pear and fig and cherry/thyme sauce.

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Nolita ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 292 0424, www.nolita. pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-15:30, 18:00-22:30; Sat 13:00-23:00. Fine dining takes another turn with Nolita, a place we’ve heard hopes to ultimately emulate Atelier by Amaro and follow the Michelin trail. With Chef Jacek Grochowina (formerly of The Ritz, London) at the helm, maybe that’s not so unlikely.

Opened at press time, we’re giving it a star billing in next month’s issue. $$$ Nowa Kuźnia ul. Stanisława Kostki-Potockiego 24, tel. 794 16 019, www.nowakuznia.pl. Open 12:00last guest. Mere steps from Wilanów’s 18th Century church, this former blacksmiths passes muster with excellent steak and a cocktail list invented by Richard Winkler – former mastermind of Paparazzi and Porto Praga. The fish too is fantastic and fresh, meaning even without their clincher – the summer garden – it’s very much a destinaBEST WAWA 2011 “Kid tion to follow. $$ Friendly” Winner Opasły Tom (E4) ul. Foksal 17, tel. 22 621 1881. Open 10:0023:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-23:00. Are you in a restaurant or inside a book shop? The mind plays tricks in Opasły, the latest venture from the Kregliccy family (Santorini, Chianti etc). Filled with hardback volumes and newspaper clippings, this trendy Foksal spot features a concise menu that includes

chili shrimp. $$ Pan Ziemniak Al. Jana Pawła II 41A. Open Mon-Sat 11:0021:00. With a custom-made cast iron potato oven and a menu that changes daily it’s not hard to see the draw. There’s usually about 16 toppings chalked up on the board, and these range from norm (tuna mayo) to the unexpected (chicken curry). $ Passe Partout (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 21, tel. 22 616 2882, www.passepartout.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22.00. Looking like a business class waiting lounge, it’s easy to overlook Passe Partout – more so now the beautiful back garden is closed off for winter.

But you’d be a fool to do so. Unassuming it might be, but there’s something clearly very right with the kitchen. The diverse international menu has too many positives to count, though the Insider recommends the pork tenderloin: served with a blue cheese and balsamic sauce, it’s a plate licking meal. $$

Platter by Karol Okrasa (C4) InterContinental Hotel, ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8734, www.platter.pl. Open 12:00-16:00,17:30-23:00. The hotel has roped in celebrity chef Karol Okrasa to head their revamped dining room. As a temple of nouveau Polish, the new layout isn’t a dramatic change from the previous occupant, Frida Restaurant - but the food is faultless. In particular, the herb garden salad with prawns comes immaculately groomed. An already excellent experience has been raised to talking point level. $$$ Porto Praga (F1) ul. Stefana Okrzei 23, tel. 22 698 5001, www.portopraga.pl. Open Mon-Thur 12:001:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 12:00-24:00.

Bathed in rich, ruby shades and Art Deco swirls, PP looks classy and elegant yet never too formal. Different species of Warsaw life happily co-exist here, enjoying a revamped menu courtesy of chef Marcin Wojtczak.

The cocktails are amazing as well – Bloody Mary is our standard bar-ometer, and here it passes the test with flying colors. $$$

Qchnia Artystyczna (E6) Zamek Ujazdowski, Al. Jazdów 2, tel. 22 625 7627, www.qchnia.pl.

Open 12:00-24:00. Suitably artistic eatery with imaginative dishes, lots for vegetarians, and a lovely park view from the terrace. $$ BEST WAWA 2011 “First Date” Winner R20 (F5-6) ul. Rozbrat 20, tel. 22 628 0295. Open 7:3022:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-22:00. This top-notch, casually elegant restaurant offers a concise, tantalizing selection of food with signature recipes from the head chef. Strongly recommended is the mouth-watering baked duck with orange and homemade ravioli. $$ Restauracja 99 (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 22 620 1999, www.restaurant99.com. Open Mon-Thurs 8:00-23:00; Fri 8:00-24:00; Sat 15:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. The feeding trough of the business class. Back sporting a futuristic look, 99 have been pleasing diners since opening in the 90’s. The good news is they’re better than ever, with a modern international menu

Now accepting bookings for our New Year's Eve Gala

RISTORANTE SAN LORENZO AL. JANA PAWŁA II 36 TEL. 22 652 1616 WWW.SANLORENZO.PL

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RESTAURANTS Burgers Barn Burger (D4) ul. Złota 9. Now settled in newer, bigger digs, what had finished summer as Warsaw’s favorite burger has taken the foot off the gas. The offer has been increased but, so it seems, at the cost of the quality. Nonetheless, try the Muppet – served on wooden trays, it’s a messy affair loaded with salsa, jalapenos and BBQ sauce. $

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Burger Bar (E10) ul. Puławska 74/80 (enter from Olkuska). Open Tue-Sun 12:0020:00. Hands down the sort of burger Thurman and Travolta would chow in Pulp Fiction. Decorative elements don’t go beyond tables and chairs (of which there aren’t many), and waiting times can drive you nuts – as can the tramps who stagger past to the nearby bottle bank. The burgers though are a different class. $ Lokal Bistro ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 64.

Open 10:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 10:001:00. Dentist colors and voluminous ceilings lend an austere but pleasant look to this Polish-style burger bar.

Sit outside at the woodchip tables (oww! watch for splinters…) to enjoy burgers that incorporate Polish Red Angus, Baltic cod and mountain cheese. Our tip: order a towering double burger with red onion marmalade and homemade ketchup.

Delivered on a thick wooden board it’s completely delightful – if not a little messy. By the end of the meal the table will look like you’ve just given birth. $

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Warburger (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-19:00.

Squeezed inside a former kiosk WarBurger have ended 2012 as the overall winner in Warsaw’s Battle of the Burger. Great ingredients, prices and service, so don’t be surprised to find the line snaking outside. $

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that includes one of the finest steaks in town, and the perfect margarita. $$ SAM (E3) ul. Lipowa 7, tel. 600 806 084. Bistro, bakery, hangout. However you choose to label SAM, it’s the talk of the town. Noisy Charlotte won all the press last summer, this time round its SAM. The cooling concrete interiors buzz throughout the day, with touches like communal tables well suited to the ascetic style.

Owned by the same lot in charge of 6/12, there’s a similar commitment to good, healthy eating employed here. $$ Solec 44 (F4) ul. Solec 44, tel. 798 363 996, www.solec.waw.pl. Open Tue-Sun 12:00-last guest; Mon 16:00-last guest. The minimalist and laid-back interior comes courtesy of Martin Walli, a Swiss-Polish game freak, and kitchen guru Aleksander Baron. The casual bistro-cum-bar they built is a reflection of their passions, a place serving up a small, daily-changing menu of soul foods made from fresh, seasonally appropriate ingredients, complimented by a massive selection of board games, cards and logic puzzles... $ Soul Kitchen ul. Noakowsiego 16, tel. 519 020 888, www. soulkitchen.pl. Open Mon-Thur 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. Set over two dining rooms the design is elegantly uncluttered: raw brick and vanilla colors. The menu is concise, but involves lots of ingredients picked from the finest local producers - some of it custom-grown especially for them.

This is contemporary Polish / international cuisine whose presentation is magnificent. A foodie draw. $$

atmosphere of orchestrated chaos here, with food served straight from the pots. Some are calling this the best meal in Warsaw, and it’s certainly up there…. even if the cocktails BEST WAWA 2011 “Restaurant aren’t. $$ Design” Winner Villa Foksal (E4) ul. Foksal 3/5, tel. 22 827 8716, www.restauracjavillafoksal.pl. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 13:00-last guest.

The pasta is filling, and probably deserves its reputation as some of the best in Warsaw. It comes as no surprise that they are often fullybooked. Check out one of the best summer gardens in the city. $$

ITALIAN Arsenał (C2) ul. Długa 52, tel. 22 635 8377, www.restauracjaarsenal.pl. Open 10:0023:00. It’s been years since we heard great words about Arse, and while the food remains fine there’s a distinct impression that their finest hour has long since passed.

A great play area for kids, it’s still not a bad option if you’re heading from Old Town with accompanying bambinos. $$

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Atmosfera ul. Czaki 2. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-22:00. It’s official: Żoliborz has woken from her culinary slumber. While the name lacks creativity overall impressions are positive: from the contemporary red-lit interiors to the Italian influenced menu, everything combines for a recommended evening. The mussels are delicious. $$

Tamka 43 (E3) ul. Tamka 43, tel. 22 441 6234, www.tamka.43.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 10:00-23:00. With a location looking at the Chopin Museum you may assume this place is all about boring food at tourist prices. Wrong. Chic and shiny, and with a cool glass frontage, chef Robert – a veteran of the El Bulli kitchen – does the rest with delicate dishes that could pass for art. $$

Bacio ul. Wilcza 43, tel. 22 626 83 03, www.bacio.pl.

Open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. Under new management the new look Bacio has been decluttered and simplified and now features a tripped down look and a menu that peaks with the duck in red wine risotto. Portions are huge, and are matched by a quality that’s seen this once ailing giant reinstalled as one of the top eats in town. $$

U Kucharzy (D3) ul. Ossolińskich 7, tel. 22 826 7936, www.gessler.pl. Open 12:00-24:00.

Literally translated as ‘with the cooks’, you find yourself in the thick of the action here, with diners planted in the kitchen area of the former Hotel Europejski. There’s a great

Bacio Angelo (E5) ul. Wilcza 8, tel. 22 622 4454, www.bacio. pl. Open Sun-Thur 10:00-last guest; Fri & Sat 11:00-last guest. With a charming folklore interior, the candlelight will lead you into a world of sweet romance. The delicate antipasti

WARSAW INSIDER | DECEMBER 2012

Bacio di Angelo is not only a place for delicious food but also a place to escape the noise of the big city.

We have four rooms and each one has a different atmosphere and interior.

Bacio di Angelo serves Italian food and our guests especially love frutti di mare and the duck baked in honey.

Our chefs are always looking for new combinations and tastes.

We’re aware that a good restaurant isn’t just based on food,but also the people – here nearly all of our employees have been with us since the restaurant launched ten years ago. ul. Wilcza 8, Tel. (22) 622 44 54, rezerwacja@bacio.pl

RESTAURANTS and Italian merlot will certainly ease you into good conversation. $$

with fresh mozzarella, provolone, rucola, pear slices and pine nuts. $$

Bellini (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 21, tel. 22 831 0202, www.restauracjabellini.pl. Open 12:00-23:00.

Queen of cuisine Magda Gessler brings her magic to the realm of Italian cooking with this spacious, enigmatic cellar restaurant just a few doors down from U Fukiera. Brilliant pizzas, especially the signature white pizza,

Bravo Roberto (F9) ul. Sułkowicka 2/4, tel. 22 841 4010, www.bravoroberto.pl.

Open 11:00-last guest. The eye-catching (and eye-wateringly expensive) Belvedere apartment block is the base for Bravo Roberto, a beautiful restaurant whose interiors mix traditional with contemporary. The lamb tartar is the recommended starter, while for mains the seafood is notable. $$

BROUGHT TO YOU BY:

Masz Gulasz Bistro invites you to taste over 30 kinds of stews, all unique dishes from one pot. Made only from natural ingredients.

Served with groats.

Quick lunches and delightful dinners.

Flavours from different parts of the world: Seafood stew, Pork stew with sauerkraut, Mix of beans with Viennese sausages, Pork stew with chorizo sausage, Green vegetables stew, Pork meat balls in hot tomato sauce, Hungarian goulash, White beef strogonoff with vodka, Pesto, Turkey curry…

Masz Gulasz, 15 Piękna St. Phone: 22 370 25 50 www.maszgulasz.com

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Delizia (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 22 622 6665, www. delizia.com.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00.

Scene of this Insider’s meal of the year, circa 2010. Unassuming at first sight, it takes seconds to notice that something is very, clearly wrong – the tables are full and the diners having fun. There’s two reasons for that, and they’re called Luca and Lorenzo. Luca is the showman and waiter supreme, while Lorenzo the culinary master behind this much talked-about venue. Fish is their forte, with deliveries from Italy arriving Tuesdays. $$$ Enoteka (C2) ul. Długa 23/25, tel. 22 635 5510, www.enotekapolska.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 14:00-22:00. The menu is updated quarterly and beefed up with the harvests of the season. The house specialises chiefly in Italian labels whose price tags range from “what a deal!” to “worth it for a celebrity splurge.” The minimalsitic rustic interior is just the right spot after a stroll in the neighboring Old Town. $$

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Kotłownia ul. Suzina 8, tel. 22 833 23 27. Open 13:00-last guest. You’d never guess from the grey surrounds but Kotłownia is one of the emerging stars of Warsaw dining. Set in a historic disused boiler house (the Warsaw Uprising started right outside!) a generous helping of wooden touches warm the split level industrial interiors, but it’s the food that steals the show. The modern Italian menu reflects the owner’s passion for Italy, as does the handpicked wine list. The convivial atmosphere makes it perfect for a long, lazy lunch. $$

La Bufala (B4) ul. Sienna 86. Open 10:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-22:00. On the right day you’ll find the ex-pat proprietors of Warsaw’s more refined

WARSAW INSIDER | DECEMBER 2012

Italian eateries using this for their pizza fix. It might not look like much, but its reputation speaks for itself. $ La Tomatina (D4) ul. Krucza 47. Open Sun-Thurs 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00. Calamitous, slapstick service and accusations pointing to the overuse of readymade ingredients shouldn’t detract from splendid pizzas served in a modern interiors of stark white walls and concrete floors. The spicy tiger prawn spaghetti is also great, even if the presentation looks like a student cooked it. $ Mezzo Italian Steakhouse ul. Sienkiewicza 5 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel.

22 756 3343. Open Sun-Thu 12:00-21:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-22:00. Tucked at the tip of Konstancin’s park, Mezzo’s wood-burning brick pizza oven constructed in the garden gets all the thumbs up. Also novel to the community is a chance to enjoy top-notch beef – using filet from Poland and T-bones from Irish Hereford cattle, Mezzo’s newly designed kitchen uses a lava grill to ensure excellence each time. $$ Nonsolo Pizza (A6) ul. Grójecka 28/30, tel. 22 824 1273. Open Mon-Sun 12:00-23:00. Design doesn’t figure highly here, instead the onus is on food – the salads are good, but the pizzas even better; maybe even the best in the city. Who says so? Only about a zillion Italians who order from here. $ Parmizzano’s (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel, Floor 1), tel. 22 630 6306. Open 12:00-23:00.

The prices are highly intimidating, but are offset by cooking that never falls below brilliant. Hotel restaurants get a bad rep, but in the formal surrounds of Parmiazzano’s diners can expect Italian food at its very best. $$$ Pomidoro (Konstancin-Jeziorna) Al. Wojska Polskiego 3, tel. 22 702 8777. Open daily 12:00-last guest. An authentic Italian restaurant located in a renovated paper mill.

Chef Ricardo whips up some of the best pizzas, pastas and steaks you’ll find in this city. Try the spaghetti alle vongole or the bistecca alla fiorentina for a real taste of Tuscany. $$ Punta Prima ul. Obrzeżna 1B, tel. 22 406 0886, www.puntaprima.com.pl. Open 11:00-last guest. A formal looking space with wood walls

A graduate of the prestigous Westminster College London, Botswanan born Joseph Seeletso needs little introduction.

A frequent fixture on Good Morning TVN, the celebrity chef opened Joseph’s last year, thereby achieving his ambition of having his own private space to create “heavenly combinations” of meals and wine. Set in a former warehouse, the cosmopolitan Joseph’s is the effortless epitome of ‘loft cool’, and has taken Warsaw by storm with a non-standard menu that reflects Chef Seeletso’s creativity. And it’s not just the level of Polish gastronomy that has been raised with the success of Joseph’s. Wine plays an equally key role, with sommelier Rafał Kiś on hand to aid with your wine choice.

• SUNDAY THEMED FAMILY DINNERS – UNIQUE MENU FROM DIFFERENT CUISINES OF THE WORLD CREATED BY OUR CHEF JOSEPH SEELETSO. • COOKERY CLASSES WITH JOSEPH SEELETSO • 700 WINE LABELS • WINE TASTING CLASSES WITH A QUALIFIED SOMMELIER • ON-SITE SHOP • LOYALTY PROGRAM Duchnicka 3 Street 01-796, Warszawa mob. 48 501 491 396, tel. 48 22 320 2988 duchnicka@josephwinebar.pl www.joseph.seeletso.com www.josephwinebar.pl

RESTAURANTS and important chests and cabinets. Start with a glass of prosecco before being blown over by mains like guinea fowl with truffle puree and caramelized beetroot – even better than it sounds. $$

Ristorante San Lorenzo (B3)

Al. Jana Pawła II 36, tel.

22 652 1616, www.sanlorenzo.pl. Open 12:00-last guest.

Adorned with crisp, starched linen and Roman frescos this space is almost magisterial in design. The Tuscan menu is flawless and well worth the rather hefty bill. The wine bar on the ground floor features the same standards at a snip of the price, and it’s here you’ll find Italian natives cheering the Serie A football. $$$ Rossopomodoro (C4) Złote Tarasy, tel. 22 222 0550, www.rusticoni. pl. Italian specialities, right in the heart of

Warsaw. Choose from a wide variety of pizzas and pastas, as well as an assortment of meat and fish dishes, and a range of desserts, including home-made tiramisu. $

Spokojna 15 ul. Spokojna 15, tel.

507 782 652, www.spokojna15.com.

Open Sun-Thu 12:0022:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00. A 19th century red brick building is the home of Spokojna, a hipster style hangout that serves two ends – that of a café and that of a restaurant.

On the food front the menu includes an exhaustive selection of pizza, as well as other Mediterranean bites. $ Trattoria Rucola na Miodowej ul. Miodowa 1, tel. 888 574 4357, www.trattoriarucola.pl. Open 12:00-22:00.

Firmly established in Saska, Ruccola have expanded to cover the West side.

The M.O is very much the same, with huge

Hot Find Shabu Shabu Hot Pot ul. Mokotowska 27, tel. 535 685 750. Open 12:00-23:00.

T

he only type of cuisine I can never seem to tire of is Asian. Asian across the board, whether it’s Thai, Japanese, Vietnamese or Korean. On a recent trip to Berlin I roamed the streets with one main goal in mind: to find the best bibimbap in the Mitte district. So it’s no wonder that within minutes of this new hot pot spot opening up just next door to my office, I was in a corner booth poring over the menu with delight.

The hot spot concept is a new one on the Warsaw soup route. As

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wall prints of verdant forest scenes, and a menu that impresses across the board – the pizza in particular gets our seal of approval. $ Venezia (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16, tel. 22 622 1537, www.venezia.com.pl. Open noon-23:00.

What happens when a restaurant hits the skids? They call Magda Gessler, or more specifically her Polski version of Kitchen Nightmares. Reinvented under her guiding hand, Venezia are back with an exciting menu and an informal design that includes Venetian murals and a stone lion. Can Venezia reclaim their reputation? The grilled sirloin with chili says yes. $$ Venti Tre (E7) ul. Belwederska 23 (Hyatt Hotel), tel. 22 558 1094. Open 6:30-23:00. With good seafood – such a rarity in Warsaw – Venti Tre serves up lovely meals that would appease the finicky appetite of any fish-lover. For cooking classes with the head chef contact the hotel. $$$

irony would have it, pho is actually more popular among the locals than any bigos or pierogis so the fascination with concocting the perfect pho or stir fry is understandable. The point of this place is to do just that: select your favorite ingredients from a menu of almost 70 different options and get to simmering. Each table has its own set of hot pots installed and once you choose your broth and extras, you are the master of your own culinary destiny.

I had my sister join me as I usually do for most of my dining exploits. We spent quite a bit of time bickering about which ingredients to choose, but finally settled on a Thai broth with Pho noodles, plus beef, water spinach, shitake mushrooms, broccoli and bean sprouts. Each ingredient is between zł. 1-6 so you can opt for as many ingredients as your budget allows. Our server also recommended the stir-fry plate as well, where you can also choose any number of ingredients and have the chef whip it all up for you in his wok. We chose some seafood and some greens and were served a dish that was not quite a pad thai, but incredibly tasty all the same. Our broth was rich and aromatic, the beef cooked to just the right point thanks to my sister’s watchful eye.

We wrapped up our tasty dinner with dessert. Now my sister is always the more daring of the two of us and she absolutely insisted we try the avocado pudding. I was against it, fearing the worst and craving instead the much more conventional mango pudding. In the end we had both and I was delighted to find that the avocado pudding was just as scrumptious as the mango. It was overall quite a simple meal, but satisfying and the reasonable price (zł. 60 total for two) will make this a regular lunch spot for those cold months ahead. (AL)

RESTAURANTS Vera Italia (Ochota) ul. Sąchocka 5, tel. 22 823 8380, www.veraitalia.pl. Open 11:30-23:00.

Where Warsaw’s Italian and other expats craving the real thing gather for Italian food.

Note that its popularity makes booking ahead a must. $$ Włoska Robota (Ochota) ul. Drawska 22 (Ochota), tel. 783 870 463.

Open Sun-Thurs 11:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 11:0023:00. Squirreled away in Park Szczęśliwicki in Ochota, the forte of the establishment is the home-made pasta. The menu is otherwise a cookie-cutter range of pizza with the usual range of toppings. If you’re after baked dough the “panuozzo” sandwiches are real winners - just be prepared to wait a while. $

JAPANESE & SUSHI Art Sushi (C5) ul. Nowogrodzka 56, tel. 22 621 7720, www.artsushi.pl Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00;

Sun 13:00-22:00. The restaurant is charming, modern and peaceful. The menu is strictly Japanese/Korean, but is a good starting-point for sushi first-timers. $$

Hana Sushi (A1) al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), www.hanasushi. pl. Dated decor of bamboo shoots and bonsai trees is made to look good by dreadful service and irritating elevator music. But it’s hard to dislike Hana – the ‘gunkan special’ is out of this world. $$

Akashia (C4) Al. Jana Pawła II 61, tel. 22 636 6767; Złote Tarasy, ul. Złota 59, tel. 22 222 0333, www.akashia.pl. The glory years are over, especially if a visit to the Złote Tarasy outpost is anything to go by. We like our duck to be crispy, but this could have been blowtorched – we didn’t need chopsticks, we needed a chisel. The W.C could benefit from a lick of paint and all. $$

Inaba (B5) ul. Nowogrodzka 84/86, tel. 22 622 5955.

Open 12:00-23:00 (kitchen closes at 22:00).

Located in an office building, this place is surprisingly quiet. The miso soup will have you licking your bowl and the sashimi and sushi sets are perfect. It's an old-timer, but it's still up there as a real contender. $$

Besuto (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 27, tel. 22 828 0020, www.besuto.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Sat 12:0024:00; Sun 13:00-23:00. After years trading in one of the grubby pavilions behind Nowy Świat, Besuto have upped chopsticks and moved onto Nowy Świat itself. The sushi is as good as ever, only now so are the views. You’d have expected the prices to climb north to reflect the change in address: they haven’t. $$

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Izumi Sushi (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17 (pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 22 825 7950, www.izumisushi.eu.

Open 12:00-23:00 or last guest. Izumi’s décor is a mix between modern design and Japanese style, which means it’s easy on the eyes but lean enough for you to concentrate on the yummy food. Plus, it’s a major spot for celeb-spotting in the city. $$

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Kaizen ul. Świetlicowa 7/9 (Konstancin), tel. 607 128 840. Open 12:00-22:00. Dark woods and orchids warm the characteristically minimal Japanese design. The traditional sushi is delicious; however they also step in uncommon directions as they cater to Western tastes, with additional sauces, innovative inclusions and elegant plate ensembles. $$ Sakana Sushi Bar (D2, A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7 tel. 22 636 0055; ul. Moliera 4/6, tel. 22 826 5958, www.sakana.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00. If there was one winner in the sushi wars of the noughties, it was Sakana. Many claim it’s the best in the city, a stand that’s hard to dispute. Practice nimble chopstick moves among other aficionados while sushi rolls sail by on tiny, little boats. $$ Sushi 77 (B4) ul. Żelazna 41, tel. 22 890 1811, Al. KEN 49, ul. Polna 48, ul. Nowogrodzka 38, C.H. Skorosze, ul. Gen. F. Sławoja-Składkowskiego 4, www.sushi77.com. Open 12:00-23:00.

Not the best in town, but definitely the best deal in town. Prices have been slashed 40%, meaning you’ll get a highly acceptable sushi fix for an economy class bill. $ Sushi Club ul. Stawki 3, tel. 22 114 1414. Open 12:0023:00. A couple of dining rooms to choose from, including one found in a restorative salt cave. The lack of English on the menu may

leave you bamboo-zled, but the overall quality is rewarding. We keep coming back for the salmon nigri and tuna hosomaki. $$ Sushi Zushi (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 420 3373, www.sushizushi.pl. Open Mon-Thur 12:0023:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-03:00; Sun 13:00-22:00.

The No. 1 ex-pat choice, so it seems, with a front cover crowd who could model for Elle. Survey the slicing skills of the sushi chefs from stools by the moat, and don’t shy away from their more creative inventions – find fish, fruit and cheese inside their Class A rolls. $$ Tomo (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2344, www.tomo.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. Excellent.

While Warsaw’s other sushi stops gather cobwebs Tomo packs out each night – that should say enough. With the maki, sushi and sashimi bobbing past on wooden platters, this place aims for fast, maximum turnover without ever making the diner feel second best. $$

JEWISH Pod Samsonem (C1) ul. Freta 3/5, tel 22 832 1788, www.podsamsonem.pl. Open 10:00-23:00.

Operating since the 1950s – crazy when you think about it. This is the place for an ordinary meal in an ordinary space. The menu mixes aspects of Polish and Jewish cooking, and fails to do a good job of either. Entertainment is provided by the staff: find them frequently

at war with the people they serve. $ Rambam ul. Grzybowska 4, tel. 22 243 2693, www.rambamrestaurant.pl. Open Sun-Fri 11:30-23:00. Kosher-certified, though by no means the exclusive domain of the Israeli coachloads who tour the district. A chic look with Middle Eastern accents is paired off with exotic dishes that include a lamb burger with red onion chutney and mint sauce. $$

LATIN Blue Cactus (E8) ul. Zajączkowska 11, tel. 22 851 2323, www.bluecactus.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:0023:00; Sat 9:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00.

A lasting legend and something of a favorite for after-work informal drinks, though recent reconnaissance has revealed plenty of deficiencies – our burrito was tiny, and not so much over-cooked as blowtorched: if it’d been human, you’d have needed dental records to identify it. Service can be calamitous, making the 10% added to the bill the subject of hot debate. $$

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Casa Pablo (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5A, tel.

22 324 5782. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-last guest; Sun 12:00-18:00.

Set to the flank of a glinting office building, Casa Pablo touts an interesting design composed of tartan colors, upturned wine crates and a mirror that we’re told is over a century

Merry Christmas!

Le Cedre 61

Al. Solidarności 61, Praga Vis a vis Bears Tel 22 670 11 66 Le Cedre 84 NEW Al. Solidarności 84, Centrum Vis a vis Court Tel 22 618 89 99

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RESTAURANTS old. But if you think that’s interesting, then take a look at the menu. Modeled round the ‘creative Spanish’ movement, dishes include scallops in wasabi sauce, and a duck breast burger with Mahon cheese, raspberry ketchup and truffle sauce. Prices are audacious and the servings small and precise; even so, we like what we see. $$$

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DaliMi ul. Zwycięzców 57, tel. 22 616 1838. Open 10:00-21:00. A new tapas bar from Dariusz Opasek, the former chef at Mirador. The

range of tapas can’t be faulted, and neither can the overall taste. Even those with an aversion to Spain are catered for, with a range of bottled beers from Poland’s lesser known breweries. $$ El Popo (C2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 2340. Open daily 12:00-24:00. The food is consistently inconsistent. Great guacamole, lovely margaritas and pleasant waitstaff. But that’s about it. $$ El Toro Steakhouse

BROUGHT TO YOU BY TAWERNA PATRIS

GREEK UNIQUE

The Insider meets up with Witold Patris, the man behind the famously hospitable Tawerna Patris.

What do you love about Greece and Greek cuisine?

Firstly, and most importantly, my partner is half Greek and we find that, to us, it’s just the most beautiful country. Add to that the taste of Greek cuisine – fresh seafood and delicious lamb – and it’s hard to find anything more fascinating. And thanks to our friends we now import products straight from Greece, things like olive oil shipped straight from Crete – it’s well known to all foodies, and details like that make a difference.

What makes Tawerna the best restaurant in Warsaw?

Whether you’re the best or not, that’s not something the owner should say – that’s down to the guests to judge. What I will say is that a lot of people tried to discourage me from opening a restaurant before I did it – but you know, when you believe in something from the heart, you start believing you can achieve your dreams. And besides, in this restaurant we don’t take shortcuts; we also try and create that unique atmosphere that comes from a one-of-a-kind combination of Polish-Greek hospitality. People notice things like that.

What do you recommend as a perfect meal?

Everything! Seriously, if I was to pick myself I’d have grilled octopus, dumplings stuffed with Greek cheese, lamb stewed with olive oil and herbs and then to finish, one of our famous mousses.

What can we expect from Tawerna in December?

We like to keep our menu fresh and exciting, so we change it every few weeks. October for instance was octopus month, while right now we have a lot of mussel-based dishes. Of course, with the festive period coming up, you’ll also find our special Christmas/New Year cake on the menu complete with a lucky coin inside! But no matter what the month is, Tawerna is our home, and we want visitors to feel that and leave with a sense of that intimacy.

Certainly, since opening three years back, we feel we’ve been successful in that respect.

ul. Wiejska 13, tel. 22 625 7698, www.eltororestaurant.com.pl. Open 12:0023:00. Decked with stone cladding, wooden supports and a mural of a Mexican desert scene, El Toro is a valuable discovery for meat loves out there. There’s seven steaks to saw through, and they reach a hefty zł. 157 for the Porterhouse. A whole lot cheaper are the delicious Louisiana Hot Wings, though for fans of the Mex part of Tex-Mex the authenticity is open to discussion. $$ Frida Nowy Świat (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 34, tel. 691 343 434. Open SunThur 11:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-02:00. They’ve sussed the design and the location, but the food is more Pol-Mex than Tex-Mex. Bland flavors and tame salsas don’t encourage return visits. $$ Ole Tapas ul. Bracka 2, tel. 519 875 767, www.ole-restaurant.pl. Open 12:00-23:00.

A dual level wine bar and restaurant with a modern spirit and a Flamenco vibe. Don’t let the name fool you: while the tapas are good, it’s the steak most people come for.

Choice here includes aged Spanish beef and Kobe cow. $$ Pico Cuadro (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 81, tel. 22 826 1524, www.picocuadro.pl. Open 10:00-23:00.

When it comes to their excellent beef manager Francisco Lopez gives credit to both the Argentinean origin of his selections and the knowledgeable hand of his chef who spent twelve years cooking in Spain. But best is dessert – a divine chocolate mousse torte on a delicate cookie crust made in house.

Not too sweet, not too thick, just right!

Although not as free with foreign flavors or combinations as it could be, it remains one to watch. $$ The Mexican (E4) ul. Foksal 10a, tel. 22 826 9021, www.mexican.pl. Open Sun-Thur 11:0024:00; Fri and Sat 11:00-01:00. Style-wise this place is fab, complete with an adobe courtyard and Corona chandeliers. But the authenticity crashes into calamity with the food, which frequently appears as a mysterious gloop served with mashed cabbage.

The locals love it. $$

POLISH Ale Gloria (E5)

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(E5)

lier, “the most extraordinary meal of the trip,” and The Guardian’s gastro guru has hit the nail on the head. Find a menu of slow food enhanced by modern techniques (e.g. blasts of nitrogen), with each course interspersed with occasionally bizarre molecular interludes – you bet we didn’t expect to be served a fizzy aloe leaf. This is Poland’s finest restaurant, and a real contender for the nation’s first Michelin star. Bookings essential. $$$

Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, www.kprb.pl/amber. Open for lunch MonFri 12:00-15:00, dinner Mon-Fri 18:00-22:00, Sat 19:00-22:30. The Amber Room is, indeed, a bit of a treasure. Chef Robert Skubisz has excelled himself in creating a menu that injects upmarket Polish dishes with contemporary flair. Set inside a majestic mansion, the recommendation they’ve received from Michelin is justly deserved. $$$

Bazyliszek (D1) Rynek Starego Miasto 1/3, tel. 22 831 1841, www.bazyliszek.waw.pl. Open 11:00-24:00.

Some parts of Bazyliszek hark to its years as a stately, stuffy restaurant. Now though it’s more earthy, with Jurassic portions of meaty, lardy food best consumed with one liter beers. The Rynek location and festive atmosphere account for its popularity more than anything that comes from the kitchen. $

Atelier Amaro (E6) ul. Agrykola 1, tel. 22 628 5747, www.aterlieramaro.pl. Open 12:00-15:00; 18:00-22:30. Nigel Slater recently called Ate-

Belvedere Restaurant (F8) ul. Agrykoli 1, (entrance from ul. Parkowa), tel. 22 558 6700, www.belvedere.com.pl.

Open daily 12:00-last guest. Set in an

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7080, www.alegloria.pl. Open daily 11:00-23:00.

Who said romance was dead? Here wedding white colors are fused with a strawberry motif inside this gourmet fave. Keeping patrons returning are aromatic dishes with a contemporary twist – try the duck in rose sauce. $$$ Amber Room at the Sobański Palace

atmospheric greenhouse, known as the ‘New Orangery’ in the Royal Łazienki Park, this landmark fine dining establishment features renditions of Polish, European and Nouvelle Cuisine, within elegant red, gold BEST WAWA and black interiors. $$$ 2011 “Business Venue” Winner Biała Gęś (F8) ul. Belwederska 18A, tel. 22 840 5060, www.bialages.pl. Open 12:00-last guest.

All the props and staff of its predecessor (Tradycja Polska) are present, with the conspicuous add-on being flocks of white geese.

And indeed, goose is the big draw here – t hese guys can fix you a whole bird if you book in advance (zł. 460 for four). As can be said of all places bearing Magda Gessler’s initials, the desserts are something else. $$$ Bistro Przekąski Zakąski (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, tel. 22 826 7936. Open daily 24hr. An eat-while-you-stand venue serving up eight złoty bites specifically designed to act as emergency stomach lining for a pre/post-

ul. grzybowska 5a tel. + 48 22 232 324 5781 www.casapablo.pl secured parking: mon to fri - from 6pm sat and sun: all day

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RESTAURANTS party crowd of vodka sinking glamour cats. $ Bistro Warszawa (B1) ul. Jezuicka 1, tel. 22 635 3769, www.bistrowarszawa.pl. Open 12:00-24:00.

The menu cites pre-war recipe books as its influence, and on it you’ll find such dishes as goose in thyme sauce with pear and zucchini.

The interiors are strictly contemporary though, with vanilla colored furnishings, wine racks and walls papered with hundreds of theater scripts and book pages. Regular jazz performances draw crowds from across the city. $$ Chłopskie Jadło (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1717; ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, tel. 22 827 0351. A chain enterprise designed to mimic a peasant inn, what with all the clunky pots and rustic supplements. And if it’s farmers fare you’re after then the food isn’t bad either, with thick, lumpy servings of countryside classics. $ Delicja Polska (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 45, tel. 22 826 4770, www.delicjapolska.pl.

Open daily 12:00-last guest. It’s one of those few places where the food is fabulous, service efficient and discreet and the interior reminiscent of a fairytale dining room. $$ Dom Polski (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 2432, www.restauracjadompolski.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. Built for moments when nothing but the best will do. Prices are premium, but this piece of high society features

an aristocratic temperament and fine Polish cuisine served with an elegant flourish. $$$ Dyspensa (E5-6) ul. Mokotowska 39, tel. 22 629 9989, www.dyspensa.pl. Open 12:00-23:00.

Back after a refit, Dyspensa now looks altogether sharper, cosmopolitan even.

There’s great people watching to be had from the raised window seating, and a menu of fine Polish fare with international accents. $$ Folk Gospoda (B3) ul. Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605, www.folkgospoda.pl. Open 12:00-midnight.

If it’s the all-singing, all-dancing village experience you’re after then consider this place. Clad in wood and rural debris the food is what you expect: bulky portions of farmyard kill. $$

delicious traditional Polish dishes and international courses. Live music every day from 18:00. $$ Inn Under the Red Hog (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 22 850 3144, www.czerwonywieprz.pl. Open daily 12:00-24:00. Bathed in red banners and propaganda paintings the Red Hog is your one stop shop for some socialist socializing. The menu is comically split between dishes for the proletariat and those for the dignitaries: the final result though is middle-of-the-road stodge. People – us included – return for the atmosphere rather than the food. $$

MG Eat Gessler (D4) ul. Chmielna 32. Open 10:00-23:00.

Now MG is not your signature Gessler venture; lacking the OTT interiors and flamboyant prices this is a clear departure Grand Kredens (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 111, tel. 22 629 8008, from what we’re used to. In fact, you couldn’t www.kredens.com.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-last even call it a restaurant, more a bio café/ guest; Sat & Sun 11:00-last guest. A relic of late deli. The ciabbattas are great, and the FroYo 90s Warsaw, consider Kredens a fallen giant. outstanding. $ Everything here is stuck in the past – once Na Zielnej (C4) edgy, the awkward interiors now resemble a ul. Zielna 37, tel. 22 338 6333, tacky mistake. The menu is a dud as well: a jack of all trades, but master of none. Ramsay’s www.nazielnej.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; Kitchen Nightmares would have a field day. $$ 12:00-22:00. Earning plaudits from all corners of the press is Na Zielnej, a dining diva which sources only the finest Polish produce.

Honoratka (C2) ul. Miodowa 14, tel. 22 635 0397, Split into a restaurant and (marginally www.honoratka.com.pl. Open daily 12:00cheaper) bistro, the menu has had foodies last guest. This place has been around since raving, and includes divine dishes such 1826 and has played host to many famous as pheasant’s breast. And the interiors hit guests, including Chopin. Honoratka serves the mark as well – making use of the space

" Expert taste in Jarek Uściński's Restaurant and catering" ul. Wybrzeże 4, open 12.00-23.00 email: ask@moonsfera.pl tel: (22) 560 37 33 www.moonsfera.pl

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vacated by KOM, Na Zielnej touts an edgy, engaging design of bare bricks and violet BEST WAWA 2011 flourishes. $$$ “Address to Impress” Winner Pierogarnia (D2) ul. Bednarska 28/30, tel. 22 828 0392, www.pierogarnianabednarskiej.pl. Open 11:00-21:00. A perfect place to bring a foreigner hungry for a taste of Poland.

Pierogarnia serves a whole range of sweet and savory dumplings, with plenty of vegetarian options. $ Podwale Piwna Kompania (D2) ul. Podwale 25, tel. 22 635-6314, www.podwale25.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:00-01:00; Sun 12:00-01:00. Set through a courtyard that replicates a Mitteleuropa square, Podwale has a beer hall atmosphere that’s further exaggerated when mountain bands circulate. Food is of average standard and served in portions that are obscene – finishing the wooden platters can be seriously traumatic. Go there for the experience, if nothing else. $ Restauracja Pod Gigantami (E5) Al. Ujadowskie 24, tel. 22 629 2312, www.podgigantami.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Despite being judged worthy of a recommendation by the scouts at Michelin, Pod Gigantami divides local opinion; it’s not just the Insider that’s found the food only satisfactory. But the wine list impresses, as do the painfully ornate turn-of-the-century interiors. $$$

Restauracja Polska “Różana” (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 22 848 1225, www.restauracjarozana.com.pl. Open 12:00last guest. It isn’t just the impressionable tourists and new-in-town expense account communities that are swept away by Różana’s charms. It features starchy white table linen, floral pieces, flickering candles and live piano solos to a posse of attentive waiters. The prices are fair and the menu is a thoughtful selection of dishes from “Old Poland.” $$ Rialto’s Restaurant (D5) ul. Wilcza 73 (Rialto Boutique Hotel), tel. 22 584 8771. Open Mon-Fri 6:30-22:30; Sat-Sun 7:00-22:30. Bathed in toffee and vanilla hues, the restaurant in this Art Deco hotel has a solid claim as one of the top meals around. The pan-seared duck breast with honey pumpkin and figs is every bit as inspired as it sounds. $$$ Słony (D5) ul. Piękna 11, tel. 22 629 0364. Open Mon-Wed 8:00-23:00; Thu-Fri 8:00-1:00; Sat 9:00-1:00; Sun 9:00-23:00. The design is kitsch but classy, with mirrored touches and striped wallpaper set against upside down lamps and nudes of Josephine Baker. Polish canapés costing zł. 8 are stored behind glass counters here, and make for great bargain snacking – the eggplant is delicious. $ U Fukiera (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 27 (Old Town Market Square), tel. 22 831 1013, www.ufukiera.pl.

Open 12:00-last guest. This townhouse has 500 years of history behind it, during which time bills have been settled by princes and presidents, models and musicians.

Reminiscent of a stately home, this maze of enticing alcoves wins for an extravagant menu of locally sourced game. $$$ U Szwejka (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1710, www. uszwejka.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-24:00. The place is named after a tubby fictional Czech soldier, but the grub is hearty Polish, XXXL portions at bargain prices. At zł. 15 per litre of beer, the mugs are constantly refilled to wash down the feast of sausages, ribs and pork knuckles. $$

Zapiecek Locations inc. ul. Nowy Świat 64, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, ul. Podwale 1, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska 13, ul. Wańkowicza 1, www.zapiecek.eu.

Open 11:00-22:00. Seven Warsaw locales, with our favorite found in the vaulted passages of Świętojańska. The menu is highly traditional, with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’.

It’s for the pierogi though for which they’re famous; find approx. fifty types delivered by servers dressed like saucy country maids. $ Zwyczjana ul. Wspólna 54, tel. 507 652 596, www.zwyczjana.pl. Open 8:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-20:00.

A modern Polish eatery with a blond wood aesthetic accented with dabs of art and bowls

THE VERY BEST

of ITALY! ITALIAN RESTAURANT

FROM 1 1 .00 AM to 1 1 .00 PM ZŁOTE TARASY, PIAZZA, LEVEL - 1 , ENTRY FROM Emilii Plater STREET tel.: 22 222 05 50 email: restauracja@rossopomodoro.com.pl

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RESTAURANTS of fruit. The food is cheap, cheerful Polish fare, with daily specials posted on their website. It fills the gap if nothing else. $

SCANDINAVIAN

*

REDISCOVER PIĘKNA BISTRO ON PIĘKNA 20!

Pristine interiors juxtapose steel and concrete against dark, warm woods and a burning fireplace lending our venue an amazing character.

Blending modernity and style, the interiors are reflected by an international menu, a carefully selected wine list and beautiful music.

Come by in the morning for hot baguettes and fresh coffee, a laid back lunch, or in the evening, when lights dim and the mood slows down.

For years Piękna Bistro has been a popular jazz spot, and at our concerts you’ll find young talents and celebrities, guaranteeing unforgettable memories.

Bistro Piękna ul. Piękna 20 Tel. 22 627 4151 piekna@jazzone.pl, www.jazzone.pl

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Nabo ul. Zakręt 8, tel. 22 842 0256. Open Mon-Fri: 8:00-21:30; Sat-Sun 9:00-21:30. The décor is, we’re told, typical Danish cafe – bold open windows, simple lines, high shelves filled with books and games on the table. But what is Danish food? There’s Old Danish on the menu: meatballs and open face sandwiches with meat and fish in various textural configurations and then there’s New Danish: an emerging trend towards fresh, seasonal food (no microwave oven at Nabo), with locally sourced and innovatively concocted ingredients. Fantastic. $$

SPECIALTY FOOD SHOPS Bio Bazar ul. Żelazna 51/53, tel. 22 318 8855, www.biobazar.org.pl. Open Sat 8:00-17:00.

Fruit and veg in the first warehouse, some of it imported from as far as Argentina. In the second warehouse, find organic cheese varieties from sheep and goats, as well as import brands from Italy, France and the Netherlands.

British Shop ul. Emilii Plater 8, tel. 692 240 804.

British food and beverages inc. cider, bacon, sausages, gluten free ready meals, confectionary etc. Run by the same team who once operated Fish & Chips on Koszykowa, the offer has now expanded to cover non-food items inc. Royal Wedding souvenirs, England football paraphernalia etc.

La Petite France ul. Zwycięzców 28, tel. 22 672 9646, www.lapetitefrance.pl. Open Mon-Sat 10:3018:00. Wine and cheese as well as canned and tinned foods from France.

Le Diplomat ul. Meksykańska 6, tel. 22 616 0539.

Open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-15:00.

Long regarded as the best butcher in town, as well as the number one source for lamb.

Kuchnie Świata Various locations, www.kuchnieswiata.com. pl. The first stop for most ex-pats, with an offer that includes food and drinks from

WARSAW INSIDER | DECEMBER 2012

across the globe. The choice is vast. Internet ordering now also available.

La Fromagerie ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 465 2324, www.lafromagerie.pl. Open Mon-Thur 9:0020:00; Fri 9:00-21:00; Sat 10:00-19:00; Sun 11:30-16:00. Top quality cheeses produced by small, artisan producers from England, the major regions of France as well as several other countries. Also, grourmet specialities like Italian parma ham, Spanish chorizo, French sausages, and hard-to-find luxury brands from France, Italy, Greece and more.

Little India ul. Domaniewska 22/5, tel. 22 843 6738, www.littleindia.pl. The definitive Indian store which doesn’t look anything more than a pokey neighborhood store. They’ve got it all mind, from oils, beans, lentils and flour, not to mention ready meals, canned goods and cosmetics. Internet ordering available.

Maho al. Krakowska 240/242, tel. 22 609 1548, www. maho.com.pl. An excellent German-run Turkish restaurant that also doubles as a butcher: halal certified beef, veal, lamb and poultry.

Marks & Spencer Various locations inc. DT Wars & Sawa, ul. Marszałkowska 104/122, tel. 22 551 7553, www.marks-and-spencer.com.pl. Visit the Marszałkowska location to take advantage of the on-site bakery, but visit early as choice diminishes the later it gets. Aside from baked goods, find an excellent frozen food section, as well as an off-license, tinned goods, ready BEST meals, confectionary and preserves.

WAWA 2011 “Gourmet Grocery” Winner Namaste India ul. Nowogrodzka 15, tel. 22 357 0939.

Open Mon-Sat 11:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-22:00.

Not just an excellent take-away, but also a small deli selling herbs and spices, ready meals, drinks and even Indian toiletries.

Ostra Kuchnia www.ostrakuchnia.pl. A superb internet shop retailing quite literally the hottest sauces known to man: brands include Blair’s, Dave’s, El Yucateco, Mad Dog, Melinda’s and many more besides. Also sell jalapenos, chili peppers, salsas and pastes. Polish-only website, but easy to navigate and superb customer service.

RESTAURANTS Papryka-Hungarian Store ul. Zwycięzców 22, tel. 22 616 0257, www.papryka-salami.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. A Hungarian deli selling wine, meats, preserves and spices.

Piccola Italia & Mediterraneo Locations on ul. Emili Plater 47, ul. Egejska 17, Al. KEN 85. Over 1,700 products, inc. cheeses from Lombardy, coffee from Florence and Olives from Puglia. And not just Italian: find a range of foods from both Spain and France.

Polna Market ul. Polna 13, Open Mon-Fri 7:00-19:00, Sat 7:00-17:00. Known as ‘Warsaw’s Market’ during communism, this was the place to get treasured goods from the West. Find a couple of wine stores, an outstanding butcher, and a fab produce stand selling only the freshest vegetables, but at a cost.

WHOLE FOODS

Bio 33 ul. Grzybowska 61, tel. 22 409 9605, www.bio33.pl. A space age looking restaurant in the Platinum Towers complex next to the Hilton. Making use of organic products, the premise is simple: three salads, three soups, three fish dishes, three meat etc. The results are marvelous, but the prices are daft. Zł. 26 for tomato soup!? $$

*

Green Peas (D4) ul. Szpitalna 5, tel. 22 826 1985, www.greenpeas.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:0020:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-20:00. Offering vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free meals, it’s a well-rounded, health conscious offer here.

Low cal and low cost inside a greenish, cafeteria style space. $

*

Surya (C1) ul. Wałowa 3, tel. 22 635 81 39, www. restauracja-surya.pl. Open Tue-Sat 12:0022:00. Found down in a former nuclear shelter this basement restaurant looks like a hobbit’s hideout, with lots of clunky timber doors leading down mysterious passages. Everything served is raw, and

on the occasions they do use an oven it’s maintained under 42°C to keep all nutrients and enzymes alive. The raw pizza is better than anything you get at Domino’s, and the zucchini lasagna a brilliant surprise. Great list of smoothies, as well. $ VegeMiasto ul. Chmielna 9A, tel . 607 031 114.

Open 12:00-21:00; Sun 12:00-18:00. A giant red mural flags VegeMiasto, making it impossible to miss. Acting as flypaper for student types, the menu is a vegan, largely gluten-free affair. Even staunch meat eaters should visit for the smoothies and shakes. $ Ye Goode Foode ul. Zamiany 12, tel. 22 254 4025. Open 11:00-last guest. YGF are back, this time in an off-center location in the middle of the ’burbs. Making use of unrefined oils and organic produce these guys take their cooking seriously – even the soups are made from spring water. The menu might not be as extensive as before, but it’s not a bad shout if you’re in the hood. $$

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WARSAW INSIDER | DECEMBER 2012

Reviews: Ale Wino! 65 / Plus:

* 5 updates

CAFÉS & WINE BARS CAFES 63 / WINE BARS 66

KEY

Insider’s Pick

Insider writers do not accept any form of payment in return for favorable reviews.

BOW 2011 Winner.............

Breakfast menu .............

Business meetings..........

Child friendly...................

Delivery.............................

Free wifi..............................

Map location pg. 94 ...... (A1) Romantic..........................

Vegetarian friendly...........

CAFÉS Antrakt (D3) pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 22 827 6411.

Open daily 12:00-last guest. Intellectuals and playwrights gather in Antrakt, a quirky cafe that groans with antiques and artwork.

The presence of the theater next door keeps the IQ level high.

Ale Wino! ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 628 3830. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00.

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

W

arsaw’s seen a growing number of wine bars, all of which have faced a grim, uphill battle. Since opening in 2004 Mielżyński have had the market cornered, with genuine competitors few and far between. Indeed, cracking their monopoly has been tough – for years, when locals spoke of wine bars, they spoke of nothing else.

Lately though, a new name has entered the dictionary, that of Ale Wino. Granted, they’ve been around a while, but it’s only recently they’ve been seen making splashes.

In part, that’s thanks to a successful summer that saw a remodeling that included an al fresco deck shielded from the elements by a pristine white sail. Covertly stashed inside a courtyard, that Ale Wino’s neighbors include Man of the Moment, fashion tsar Robert Kupisz, announces this place as the frontline of cool. As if to qualify this, find furnishings courtesy of the celebrated design brains at Studio Rygalik.

With all this in mind, you might expect something conceited and pretentious. But not in the least; on our visit seating in the comfortable brick room was largely divided among young, professional families rocking three-wheel buggies back and forth. A family-friendly wine bar? And on Mokotowska? Who’d have thought. But Ale Wino succeeds on a number of levels, not least in allowing those unschooled in the world of wine to enjoy it to its max.

For that, credit must be issued to sommelier Adrian Litkowicz. On his advice our table was soon making fast work of a bottle of a magnificent Luddite Shiraz 2006.

Stocked with wines from 16 countries, the offer isn’t just impressive but affordably priced.

And the glories extend further still, namely to a menu that competes in quality with some of the best around town. Chalked up on a blackboard, find a number of fine delicacies: dainty pastries, beautiful crostini and cheese so fine the synapses fold: served on a bed of greens, the Saint Loup goat cheese is a natural born winner. I’m not usually found in wine bars, but since discovering Warsaw’s best gazpacho here over summer, Ale Wino is now a regular name on my afternoon schedule. I won’t be surprised if you follow my lead. (AW)

Aroma ul. Krucza 6, tel. 22 376 5475, www.aromaespressobar.pl. Open 7:0022:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-20:00. An attractive Israeli owned spot with white painted walls and a busy café atmosphere – hissing coffee contraptions and lively sounds. The sandwiches are nice enough, but we like this place for their other offerings: cinnamon twisters, Belgian waffles and chocolate croissants.

Blikle (D3) ul. Nowy Świat 33, tel. 22 826 6619, www.blikle.pl. All-day breakfast: Mon-Sat 9:00-last guest, Sun 10:00-last guest.

There’s a cultured, pre-war look to Blikle, a proud cafe with a 100 year history. Famous former clients include Charles de Gaulle who had a fondness for their donuts.

Bubbleology ul. Chmielna 26, www.bubbleology.pl.

Open 11:00-23:00. Looking like a 26th century version of Willy Wonka’s factory (psychedelic colors, Japanese lettering, and doors marked Top Secret), this place is no ordinary café. But that’s down to the drinks, rather than the décor. ‘Bubble Tea’ is the beverage here, with an arsenal of fruit flavors made by zany lab coated staff.

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CAFÉS & WINE BARS Café 6/12 (E5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 622 5333, www.612.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-23:00.

Famous for dispensing complicated fruit and vegetable smoothies, 6/12 have even introduced a full diet plan: pop-by for breakfast, then grab a goodie bag packed with balanced meals and snacks for the day ahead. Being healthy has never tasted better.

Or looked better for that matter; still very much the choice haunt for the in-team.

BEST WAWA 2011 “Cafe Culture” Winner Café Lorentz Al. Jerozolimskie 3. Open Mon 10:00-20:00; Tue-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00. Set at the front of the National Museum this place has a nice indoor area with high ceilings and minimalist decorations and a green outdoor area populated by wickers chairs and hammocks. As is the rage in Warsaw, the menu is light, natural and healthy.

Café Próżna (C3) ul. Próżna 12, tel. 22 620 3257, www.cafeprozna.pl. Open Sun-Thur 10:0023:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00. Ignoring the fact that most of this street looks ready to fall down, the artsy-looking Próżna comes with a chic, ice white look, and a stack of hard-back tomes to compliment the homemade desserts. Even better at night, when soaked in the glow of dozens of candles.

Café Vincent (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. 22 828 0115.

Open daily 6:30-24:00. A must-stop, Cafe Vincent is your ultimate French connection: a bakery, pastry shop and bistro. It offers freshly baked treats from almond croissants to delicate brioches.

Chłodna 25 (B3) ul. Chłodna 25, tel. 22 620 2413, www.chlodna25.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 10:00-last guest. Once known for its battered look and antiestablishment attitude, C25 has undergone gentrification. Now, all the dreadlocks and second hand furniture are a distant memory, replaced instead by a middle class crowd and a cleaned up look. But it’s not all bad news – having lost their license at the start of the year, the beer has returned! The next question is, will the customers? With initiatives like international comedy nights and strange, cult concerts our money says yes.

Coffee Karma (D6) pl. Zbawiciela 3/5, tel. 22 875 8709, www.coffeekarma.eu. Open Mon-Fri 7:3022:00; Sat 9:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-22:00.

Order a smoothie, switch off the phone, open the book – it’s that sort of place. Concerts and art shows figure in their repertoire, as does rather good coffee. But to see Coffee Karma at her best, wait for the spring terrace.

Czuły Barbarzyńca (E3) ul. Dobra 31, tel. 22 826 3294, www.czulybarbarzynca.pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-22:00; Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 12:0022:00. A very charming bookstore and

café in one.

Dziurka od Klucza (E3) ul. Radna 22 881 8677. Open Mon-Sun 12:0021:00. Dziurka serves an ambiguous role as a bar, restaurant and cafe. Curious doors sit embedded on the wall, as if waiting to be opened by the keys that hang on the tree outside.

Flowers, plant pots and violet splashes give it a cheerful spin, while the Italian inspired menu isn’t short on creative flair.

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Fawory ul. Mickiewicza 21. Open 10:00-22:00. An intimate neighborhood cafe that comes complete with mugs that announce: “Fresh Coffee Tastes Betters”. You bet it does. The smoothies and regional beers are even better though, and come served inside a white interior splashed with an awesome mural.

Francuska 30 (H4) ul. Francuska 30. Open daily 8:00-22:00.

An attractive modern café in the heart of Saska Kępa with an artsy feel. A large selection of coffee drinks as well as teas, complemented by a choice of pastries, muffins and simple Italian dishes at affordable prices.

Haagen Dazs (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel. 22 826 3052.

Open 10:00-20:00. The mango sorbet is out of this world, albeit served inside generic, showroom interiors.

Kafka Café (E3) ul. Oboźna 3, tel.22 826 0822,

We serve breakfasts, lunches and desserts, which are made with natural ingredients and without preservatives. We also have a shop with 60 types of wines. We are proud of our breakfast buffet which costs 20 zł. and which is served every weekend from 10 to 2 p.m.

O Obrotach Ciał Niebieskich ul. Leszczyńska 4 lok. 129, tel. 22 212 87 27, www.o-obrotach.pl

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www.kawiarnia-kafka.pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00. Floor-toceiling glass walls, retro checkered floor tiles and rows of pre-loved books lining shelves characterize this café hotspot. They serve salads, pastas and pancakes and tote plenty of “free” factors: free wi-fi, smoke-free interiors and attitude-free waitresses.

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Kalinowe Serce ul. Krasińskiego 25. Owned by actors Maciej Zakościelny and Zbigniew Dzięgiel this cafe pays homage to PRL songstress Kalina Jędrusik. But don’t think of KS as some dusty museum stuck in the past. This smart café is adorned with stunning black and white photography, and hosts regular concerts and arty events.

KluboKawiarnia Towarzyska ul. Zwycięzców 49, www.klubokawiarnia.net.

Open 9:00-last guest. Urban cool penetrates Saska. With an interior modeled by John Strumiłło, this 50s pavilion has an ascetic design defined by polar white interiors.

Contrast is provided downstairs, with deep magenta walls and retro armchairs. Concerts, screenings and art happenings have launched it into local conscience.

La Vanille (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 578 2233, www.lavanille.pl. Open 8:00-20:00. In much the same way Charlotte is so much more than a bakery, La Vanille is definitely more than your standard confectioners. Thick with the scent of icing sugar, it looks sharp and sleek with glossy lifestyle mags tossed on battleship grey sofas. But it’s the counter that acts as a magnetic force, and it’s here you’ll find fantastic cupcakes of all color and flavor spread out in precise military formation.

Lody na Patyku (E3) ul. Lipowa 7A. Open 10:00-23:00. One of our favorite openings of the summer; selling ice lollies of every shape, size, flavor and color, this unexpected project is an initiative of the guys who run Warszawa Powiśle and Syreni Śpiew. Looking clinical and white, it’s a star of the summer.

Loft Café (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 608 608 488, www.cafeloft. pl. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-22:00. Brickwork and aquariums dominate Loft, while lighting is courtesy of strings of bubbles that dangle from the ceiling. The loud and lairy design befits the neon-lit exteriors. Clearly, plenty of people

like it, we’re more ambivalent.

Magiel Café ul. Stępińska 2, tel. 22 841 0016, www.magielcafe.pl. Open Mon-Sat 11:0022:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. Situated in a former laundrette, sweet looking Magiel comes crowded with rusting mangles and vintage posters advertising soaps and powders.

Featuring some delicious homemade meals inspired influenced by both the Polish and Mediterranean spirit, this place also gets noted for estoreric Polish beers, as well as a series of French wines sourced from private vineyards.

Między Nami (D4) ul. Bracka 20, www.miedzynamicafe.com, tel. 22 828 5417. Open Mon-Thur 10:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-23:00. One of Warsaw’s enduring legends, and as popular at night as it is during the day; media types love it, and you’ll find them pecking on quesadilla type snacks inside a hip, white interior.

Ministerstwo Kawy ul. Marszałkowska 27/35, tel. 512 091 840, www.ministerstwokawy.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00. Were it not for the fact MK opened after voting had closed, you’d have bet your bottom zlot this would have romped home with our ‘best café’ award.

Decorated sparingly with white wall tiles and wooden floors, this newbie numbers some ace fruit drinks amongst its greater glories.

MiTo (D6) ul. Waryńskiego 28, tel. 2 629 0815, www.mito.art.pl. Open Mon-Fri 7:00-22:00; 9:00-23:00. Café, gallery, bookstore. Sure, we’ve seen that concept before, just not done in this style. Stark white backgrounds are offset by modern art, lending the place a Tate Modern feel.

Moments ul. Nowy Swiat 6/12, www.tastylife.pl. Open Mon-Thu 7:30-22:00; Fri 7:30-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-22:00. A prime location in the ingenious construction of a two-storey glass prism under the Financial Center’s arcades. So forget the gloomy, dusty corners of Warsaw’s cafes and immerse yourself inside a sleek space bathed in light that comes streaming through all four walls.

Moments knows many incarnations and slides with ease between cosmopolitan cafe, modern eatery and communal wine bar. my’o’my (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8 (enter from Górskiego), www.

myomy.pl. Open Mon 11:00-22:00; Tue-Thu 10:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-21:00. Slightly rustic in design, with flower-patterned pillows, wooden panels painted white and winding stairs that lead to a charming second floor. The baked goods are courtesy of baker extraordinaire Zofia Różycka, and the rest of the food offer is pretty grand as well. Its popularity with Warsaw’s mid-20s set makes it occasionally claustrophobic.

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O Obrotach Ciał Niebieskich ul. Leszczyńska 4 lok.

129, tel. 22 212 87 27, http://o-obrotach.pl.

Open Mon 11:00-21:00; Tue-Fri 8:00-21:00; Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. A bright, airy place that does a good job of capturing the eccentricities of Powiśle – just check out the beady light. Coppion coffee is on hand to rouse early birds, as well as a selection of homemade muffins, waffles and other baked goodies.

Petit Appetit (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 27, www.petitappetit.pl. Open 6:30-23:30. Cartoon murals, brickwork and that must for the season – a communal table – all contribute to marking Petit Appetit as something of a winner. Their real success though is as a bakery: loaves, baguettes, pastries are produced to expert standard.

Piaskownica (E3) ul. Lipowa 7A. Open 9:00-last guest; Fri-Sat 11:00-last guest. During daylight it’s a coffee bar; come nightfall beer becomes the choice of the people. Popular with college kids, find announcements like ‘Tofu Attack’ chalked on the blackboards.

Prosta Historia (H4) ul. Francuska 24, tel. 505 277 660. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:30; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:30.

An attractive Saska café decked with pale white colors, and steel lights overhead.

Service can be frustrating, and some call the food overpriced, factors which are offset by a high street location: perfect for a spot of people watching.

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Relaks ul. Puławska 48. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00; Sat 10:00-19:00; Sun 10:00-18:00. Delete Starbucks from memory: if you take your coffee seriously, then no-one does it better than this lot. Using a number of brewing

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CAFÉS & WINE BARS methods, the baristas here are top of their trade, doing their stuff in a cool interior with a heavy retro accent.

Saint Honore (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 20/22, tel. 508 143 987, ul. Grzybowska 61 (Platinum Towers), www.saint-honore. pl.Open 8:00-21:00. Accept no imitation, here’s the best bakery around. And aside from fresh baguette sandwiches, find authentically French cakes, croissants and pastries.

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Secret Life ul. Słowackiego 15/19. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-21:00. You might already be familiar with Secret Life of Things, a fab design store on the other end of town.

Now the same minds have expanded their offer to include this café, a delightful spot that opened in summer. The deckchairs outside may have gone but the hype lingers on: an eclectic design marries a Scandinavian look to an eccentric spirit, while unpasteurized beers, organic teas and a locally sourced menu do the rest. It’s a winner!

Śniadaniownia ul. Dąbrowskiego 38, tel. 507 513 502.

Open 8:00-15:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-17:00.

A bright looking breakfast bar with pale woods and pot plants to offset any early morning trauma. The day’s breakfast sets are scrawled up on a blackboard, and usually involve a number of healthy living options to kicks start the day.

Socjal (E4) ul. Foksal 18, tel. 601 318 966. Open 9:00-4:00.

Looking raw, industrial and refreshingly ascetic, the principal feature of Socjal is the long communal table – who you end up talking to is down to the dice. There’s few better places to order the Prosecco and act oh so continental.

Sto900 (E3) ul. Solec 18/20, tel. 787 696 241.

Open 9:00-22:00; Fri 9:00-24:00; Sat 10:0024:00; Sun 10:00-22:00. A fabulous café/ restaurant with a spontaneous design that jumbles bricks and wood with mismatched furniture. From the outside, this place looks like the entrance to a squat, so be surprised to learn it’s not just the atmosphere that’s ace.

The menu changes daily, but usually involves commendable burgers (with a daring but successful addition of beetroot) alongside more unexpected dishes: e.g. eko-falafel.

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Wars i Sawa (E3) ul. Dobra 14/16. Open Mon-Thu 10:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-1:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. Creaking floorboards, unfinished plastering and piles of books set the tone to this ‘culture café’.

It’s exactly what you’d expect of Powiśle, and the sort of stop best enjoyed on your own with a pot of tea, a dog-eared novel and your tightest skinny jeans.

WINE BARS Charlotte (D6) pl. Zbawiciela, tel. 22 628 4459. Open MonFri 7:00-24:00; Sat 9:00-24:00; Sun 9:0022:00. Further proof of Zbawiciela’s rising star is Charlotte, a trendy boulangerie/wine bar. With seating spilling out underneath the colonnades outside, this was easily the hit of the summer. Pandering to the hipsters and trendies, you’d expect this sort of place BEST WAWA 2011 in Hoxton, London.

“Newcomer & People Watching” Winner Enoteka (C2) ul. Długa 23/25, tel. 22 635 5510, www.enotekapolska. pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-midnight; Sun 14:0022:00. Located just outside the Old Town, this minimalist wine bar is a great place for a date.

Wines from top European wine makers are impressive and the prices are very decent.

Joseph’s Wine & Food ul. Duchnicka 3, tel. 22 320 2989, www.josephwinebar.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00. This newlyopened restaurant, bar and wine shop features great atmosphere and amiable staff. Don’t come here for a quick dinner. Instead, come here to drink the wine and savor the rich and inventive meals. Service is slow, but rightly so, leaving guests with just enough time to regain their appetite for seconds. Being firmly tucked away from the center in a renovated factory allows you to easily whittle away the hours.

Jung & Lecker (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 14, tel. 22 866 6749, www.prawdziwewina.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-18:00. J&L’s new wine bar on ul. Emilii Plater 14 offers minimalist, café-style chic. The locale offers daily specials that feature two four-course menus. The shops’ wines are sourced directly

WARSAW INSIDER | DECEMBER 2012

from 15 wineries in Germany’s famed Pfalz, Rheinhessen, Rheingau and Mosel regions.

The summer courtyard garden is a particular standout feature.

Merliniego 5 (E10) ul. Merliniego 5, tel. 22 646 0849, www.merliniego.pl. Set up like a New York bistro, Merliniego 5 is a cross between a whisky bar and steakhouse. It’s sophisticated, but not snooty and has some truly excellent steak and salad.

Mielżyński Wine Bar (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 636 8709, www.mielzynski.pl. Open daily 9:00-24:00 (kitchen closes at 23:00). Some call it the best wine bar in Warsaw, others the best in Poland.

Either way, this place hits the right notes with a wonderfully simple gourmet menu, old and new world wines and a chic warehouse design filled to bursting with crates and boxes.

WinKolekcja (E10) ul. Olkuska 8, tel. 22 646 8742, www.winkolekcja.pl. Open 11:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. You can’t pick your neighbors...

In WinKolekcja’s case, that means a kebab shop opposite and a bottle bank with a constant stream of street bums. But in spite of the curious location, this new wine bar/ store looks set to thrive; the wine choice is comprehensive, and the food excellent. The design has the routine look of a club class lounge area; even so, it’s a timely addition to an area not rich in options.

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Winny Przystanek ul. Mickiewicza 20, tel. 789 321 333. Open Tue-Fri 11:00-22:00; Sat-Mon 15:00-22:00.

Found on the frontline of Żoliborz here’s the perfect wine bar – no jumped up city traders, just a chilled out crowd of locals enjoying a tipple from the impressive wall of wine. You’ll warm immediately to the condensed interiors which resound to the busy scrape of wood fittings on tiled, checkered floors. A great initiative that shows a good wine bar doesn’t have to take itself too seriously. Żurawina (D5) ul. Żurawia 32, tel. 696 561 652. Open 12:0024:00. Lacking in intimacy this large white room has an interior supplemented by jarring artwork and a set of swings. In the world of wine it’s vital the customer can connect with the sommelier – here it felt like we were joining the SS. The wine list is as serious as the service, and with only two wines available by the glass it’s not for the occasional wine fan.

Reviews: Warszawska Pijalnia Whisky 67 / Plus:

* 9 updates

NIGHTLIFE

BARS & PUBS 67 / CLUBS 72 / GENTLEMAN’S CLUBS 74 / JAZZ CLUBS 74

KEY

Insider’s Pick

Insider writers do not accept any form of payment in return for favorable reviews

BOW 2011 Winner.............

Food Served....................

Free wifi..............................

Live Music..........................

Map location pg. 94 ...... (A1) Romantic..........................

BARS & PUBS Bastylia (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17, tel. 22 825 0157. Open 8:00-23:00. Before Zbawiciela became The Center of the World, Bastylia was an unassuming pancake shop with a militant lesbian following. Smelling money it’s done a 180 turn and been reinvented as a champagne bar with whitewashed brickwork and mandarin sofas. For all the effort it just doesn’t feel right – and the staff get plenty of big red crosses.

Warszawska Pijalnia Whisky ul. Zgoda 6, tel. 22 553 61 00, www.pijalniawhisky.pl. Open Mon -Sun 12:00-22:00.

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y first impression of this place, when driving by in a taxi late one night was that it was quite a spiffy-looking place. The sort of whisky bar one might find in most of the major cities of the world. A dimly-lit place with bottles of aged whisky lining the shelves, poured out in dashes by a sage bartender. But the truth is, it’s not as much a charismatic whisky bar as it is the sort of bar you’d find in a hotel. There are no old oak cabinets or portraits of Cambridge scholars. It’s all very pragmatic and sharp-cornered beneath the dimly-lit exterior.

Once we’d come to terms with this fact, it was time to let loose and indulge in a tipple of some of the house’s finest – or almost finest, depending on the price list. It’s a small spot, but only one of the six or so tables was occupied that night. So my date and I grabbed the corner table and got to work on deciding what we would be having. Or, rather, how old we’d like it.

They’ve got an interesting system here whereby they color-code the prices: starting at zł. 13 for green, red, blue and up to zł. 24-28 for silver and gold. Which is quite manageable if you figure a glass of wine runs about the same in most of bars. The menu here arranges everything by aromas and essences, so you can opt for something light and summery or rich and chocolatey, mostly from the Speyside Spey distillery. And they even tell you the cask number for good measure. I opted for the ten year green dram described as ‘long, hot sweet delights,’ and a second glass, too. In terms of flavor, it’s as sexy as the name would suggest.

My date went all out with the 16-year Speyside Spey meant to ‘lift the spirits’. He seemed satisfied with his choice and no doubt his spirits were lifted by the end of the night – whether that was the whisky or my own doing remains unanswered. What I can tell you is that this isn’t the most romantic spot in the world, but when you’re in love and having some of the finest whisky to come out of Scotland, it doesn’t really matter where you are. (AL)

Bazar (F1) ul. Okrzei 22, tel. 508 321 264. Open 12:00-last guest. There’s Krusovice, Bernard and Staropramen on tap, and the Czech slant is lent added meat by a series of evenings held in cahoots with the Czech Cultural Centre – it’s during boozy disco nights the party spills into a shadowy cellar with light retro hints. On ground level its raw and industrial with asphalt colors and overhead pipes. You wouldn’t expect it, but the margaritas are smashing.

Beirut (D5) ul. Poznańska 12. Open 12:00-last guest.

One of the hits of 2012, Beirut has walls dusted with cult album covers, documentary film posters and some token pics of military hardware (pointing at Tel Aviv Cafe across the road). Androgynous staff deal out Lithuanian beer and Lebanese starters from behind a sandbag bar in this standout café-bar.

Bierhalle (A1) Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia). Open 11:00last guest. It’s been five years since Bierhalle tapped their first beer, and in those five years they’ve nailed the market. Fantastic Pils served in a boozy, Bavarian atmopshere, and a decent menu to iron out any hunger issues.

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NIGHTLIFE Black Sheep (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 45A (enter from Nowolipki), tel. 883 688 722. Open Mon-Thu 10:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-2:00; Sun 11:00-23:00. Tilted caps and hoodie tops are popular in Black Sheep, a strange haunt that has a dual role: a snowboarding shop by day and a bar at night.

The combination is strangely successful, even if the clashing primary colors aren’t. Find plenty of dreadlocked skater dudes nodding at DJs, as well as Warsaw’s most bizarre choice of interior lighting.

The British Bulldog (D4) ul. Krucza 51, tel. 22 827 0020, www.bbpub.

Eat And Drink All You Want Night Wings & Beer &...

pl. How fickle this city can be. Two months ago we were proclaiming the launch of the Bulldog as one of Warsaw’s finest moments – then, inexplicably, the ownership got shot of the manager who’d made it the success that it was. Cue outrageous service, an ex-pat boycott, and a future that looks grim.

Browar de Brasil (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 76/80, tel. 534 600 990, www.browardebrasil.pl. Open 12:00-last guest. Four house lagers served by sexy soccerettes dressed in tight Brazil tops. Featuring blood rose colors and deep, dark woods (a glass floor, even!), the interiors combine well with the copper brewing vats. The food though is amateurish, and at times inedible.

Browarmia (C3) ul. Królewska 1, tel. 22 826 5455, www.browarmia.pl. Open daily 12:00-last guest. An industrial looking microbrewery filled with mysterious pipes, valves and gauges. The summer terrace is great, making it one of the best places around for a brew with a view.

Bufet Centralny (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34, tel. 523 749 160. Open 12:00-5:00 With its harsh lights, white tiles and collapsible tables this could pass for a school canteen – at least it would if the customers weren’t too cool for school.

There’s serious posing going on in between drinks, and you’re clearly a no-mark if you weren’t at the launch. Still in their infancy, prepare for teething problems: e.g., running out of lager.

Pay once – drink and eat all you want* Live music – DJ Cost 49 PLN Every Monday (launch date: 29.10.12)

WARSAW

*Promotion details and rules are available upon request in the restaurant.

No alcohol will be served to persons under 18 years of age.

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Butelki Zwrotne ul. Potocka 14. Open 16:00-last guest. The prefab concrete building doesn’t give away much, but inside Żoliborz has a star in the making. Cloaked in half-light, a diverse crowd (lads watching football, people tapping into laptops and some girls celebrating Madzia’s birthday) gather to enjoy Europe’s lesser known beers (e.g. Biała Nic) inside an interior featuring an illuminated reindeer head and bottles hanging from the rafters.

Café Colombia (D5) ul. Krucza 6/14, tel. 22 627 3770, www. colombiabar.pl. Open 8:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-23:00. Vast windows, vibrant colors and wide open spaces make it the polar opposite of the covert cocktail dens we usually like. But my God, the drinks here are special.

The Chili Manhattan Dream is outstanding, and the Espressotini to die for – and after

WARSAW INSIDER | DECEMBER 2012

ordering eight we nearly did. Also on the roster, a range of impressive international beers.

Cafe Kulturalna (C4) Palace of Culture, pl. Defilad 1, tel. 22 656 6281, www.kulturalna.pl. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-last guest; Sun 15:00-last guest. The location is unbeatable and visiting the Palace late at night is an amazing, almost mystical experience.

Chwila (B3) ul. Ogrodowa 31/35, tel. 22 401 1754.

Open 12:00-last guest; Sun 15:00-last guest.

Entered under a red, cabaret-style awning, Chwila is a reject factory space turned good.

Furry cushions, patchwork quilts and student art vie for attention alongside iron girders and industrial leftovers inside what is becoming known as one of the top alternative music venues this side of the river.

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Czarna.Bar ul. Sienkiewicza 4, tel. 22 416 2467. Open 12:00-23:00; Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 10:0021:00. The look doesn’t say ‘just finished’, it says ‘haven’t even started’. Cables hang from walls, and specks of paint cover the grey / white surfaces – whether this is actually part of the final design one can only guess. It’s upstairs you’ll find most people moving to, and we like it very much. Looking fashionably spartan, the area includes an L-shaped mattress thing, and a glass wall which allows you to peer in on the chef downstairs.

Czeska Baszta Tower 22A, Most Poniatowskiego. Open TuesThurs, Sun 16:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 16:00-24:00.

Set in one of those towers that props up Most Poniatowskiego, its surroundings look grim – at night even scary. Bathed in a yellowish glow, it’s actually warm and welcoming, and the reason for that soon becomes apparent: everyone is drunk! There’s 80 Czech beers to pick from, and they do more than enough to distract from the rattle and rumble of overhead trams and a swamp monster toilet.

Czysta Ojczysta (G1) ul. Ząbkowska 27/31. Open Mon-Fri 18:00-4:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-4:00.

Here’s a turn up for the books: a Praga bar that doesn’t look infected. Set in a one-time vodka factory, this white-on-white haunt features little more than soothing colors, iron posts (watch them), and a whole wall of vodka. Expect the party to spill out into the courtyard, itself utilized for maverick events like bicycle polo.

NIGHTLIFE Flaming & Co. Champagne Bar (E6) ul. Mokotowska 43. Open 12:00-23:00.

Checkered floor tiles, pristine whites and classic pictures of the rich and famous announce Flaming. The guys look like Bond villains and the gals just like Bond girls, but don’t think it’s a closed shop. With glasses of Moet starting below zł. 50 it’s accessible to all.

But forget the champagne, it’s their cocktails we love. Order oysters and let the night take its course.

Hydrozagadka ul. 11 Listopada 22, tel. 502 070 916, www.hydrozagadka.waw.pl. Open MonThur 18:00-1:00, Fri-Sat 18:00-5:00.Even in an area known for its dive scene Hydrozagadka stands apart as something a little different.

Competition is cutthroat in Praga, but even so this place wins the gong for most dismal interior – congrats. Looking like it’ll fall apart at any given signal, The H earns plaudits for weekends that whizz past in a blur of hedonism.

Jimmy Bradley’s (C4) Warsaw Towers (ground floor), ul. Sienna 39, tel. 22 654 6656, www.jimmybradleys.pl.

Open Mon-Fri 10:00-last guest; Sat & Sun 12:00-last guest. Ex-pat Warsaw went into meltdown at the start of the year when it was announced landlord Kevin Bradley had left the pub bearing his name. With foreign custom dwindling this dark-looking pub now cuts a sorry shadow with rumors swirling about its imminent future.

Karmnik (D1) ul. Piwna 41, tel. 22 468 0664. Open 11:00-last

guest. Complimented by soft, lazy grooves, conversation comes fuelled by a fridge filled to bursting with diverse labels from Łomża and Gniewosz. Rounding out the art-mosphere, find a tubby looking dog nosing happily under tables. Decorated with birdhouses and wobbly plastic seats, it’s further proof that Praga cool has penterated mainland Warsaw.

Kosmos Kosmos (D6) ul. Koszykowa 55, tel. 602 108 366. Open 11:00-last guest. A large cellar complex decorated with outlandish space murals, orange seats and lego bricks. And in the front, find a kids room complete with a slide. Warsaw’s hipster faction have already attached themselves to it, with the opening drawing a crowd of hundreds milling outside.

Kwadrat (D5) ul. Poznańska 7, www.kwadrat.waw.pl.

Open 12:00-last guest; Sat 18:00-last guest; closed Sun. Dwarfish in size, Kwadrat offers a magnificent selection of quirky beers from the lesser known breweries of backwater Poland. Arty in spirit, but never pretentious, it’s the neighborhood bar you wished you lived next to.

Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640.

Open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00, Fri 11:00-02:00, Sat 12:00-02:00, Sun 12:00-23:00. A place that just keeps growing on us; there’s a segregated smoking chamber, traditional dartboard (no stupid electronics here), Sky Sports and a menu that’s as authentically English as the Downing Street cat. In charge of

Hot Find

it all is Graham, a seasoned ex-pat with an embassy background.

Lorelei (D4) ul. Widok 8, tel. 605 066 775. Open Sun-Thu 12:00-01:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-05:00. A brill place with black and white interiors touched up with cool lighting and walls layered with comic strip pics. The real plus are the people, an approachable bunch always happy to practice their English.

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Małe Piwo (D7) ul. Oleandrów 4. Open 17:00-last guest.

Tight trousers and flamboyant scarves are recommended in this hipster mecca, as is a triumphant drinks choice that numbers short of sixty regional beers. Design doesn’t go beyond jam jars for lights and a messy blackboard, but that’s all this place needs to work. Similar backstreet New York dive it’s got an effortless cool and our beer of the year: the minty flavor/raspberry hint M3.

Meta na Mazowieckiej (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 16/22. Open 11:00-6:00.

Filled with Breznev-era leftovers the latest venue from the Meta brand is a larger version of the Foksal original. Posters and vinyl (even a motorbike) from the PRL years decorate the walls, with the bulk of the action taking place in the smoking room in the back.

Molly Malone’s (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 41, tel. 693 333 954, www.mollymalone.pl.

Open 12:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-2:00.

You’re not going to miss it: standing on

Basen ul. Konopnickiej 6, tel. 696 058 944, www.artbasen.pl.

Open Fri-Sat 21:00-6:00.

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arsaw’s latest super club manages to do the impossible by out-trumping every other location in town – maybe in Poland, even. Why? Get this, you’ll be doing your dance steps in what was Warsaw’s first public swimming pool.

Dating from the 1930s, the building has now been transformed into a club, with the primary dance pit set in the area you’d have once found inter-war dudes splashing about in their tight-hugging briefs. View more modern men strutting their stuff from the overhead balconies, and prepare to take a deep breath once you catch some of the lookers at the bar. Featuring a line-up of live bands and some of the top electronic acts around, this is definitely one to add to the watch list.

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street level, an elderly gent in top hat and tails waves customers in. Resist. Set over two floors, ground level features a narrow wood carved bar, while upstairs find music paraphernalia, benches and, in our case, a band called Gangbang rehearsing for later.

Forget the name, it’s a Polish pub for local students.

Na Lato ul. Rozbrat 44, tel. 692 280 094.

A popular summer haunt, thanks primarily to stretch of parkland that takes on the look of a giant, beery picnic once all the deckchairs are out. But even with winter, a tight schedule of cool events keep the former HQ of the SLD political party heaving with custom.

Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’ (D4) Enter from ul. Nowy Świat 26. Enjoy while you can – slated for demolition in the coming years, the pavilions represent underground Warsaw at its raffish best. A low rent maze of dark, budget bars await, including the celebrated Klaps with its vibrator beer taps.

Panorama Bar and Lounge (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel.22 630 6306, www.panoramabar.pl.

Open Mon-Sun 18:00-02:00. An elegant bar that would easily pass for the VIP room of a well-to-do club. A floor 40 location makes it great for a date: the sunset views are dazzling.

Paparazzi (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 22 828 4219, www.paparazzi.com.pl. Open 9:00-last guest.

Engage in suicidal cocktail consumption alongside high rollers and genetic miracles.

Slick and smooth, Poland’s original cocktail chain continues to set the bar high with formidable cocktails (Pimm’s included!) and a smoking section that encompasses everything but the front door.

Pardon To Tu (C4) Pl. Grzybowski 12/16. Open 9:00-last guest.

Decorated in voluptuous Bordeaux colors, the design involves mismatching seats and tiled lampshades, and a relaxed arthouse look popular with creatives, musicians and other fringe dwellers. A big friendly dog loafing around and improvised music nights round out this Insider legend. And when they say they’re open to last guest, they really do mean it.

Pies Czy Suka (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8A. Open 11:00-last guest.

Monochrome gun metal grey colors are offset by a fashionable crowd attired in red shoes, pink trousers and blue headphones.

This clean, concrete space is speckled with plaster moldings of reindeer heads, and excels on the cocktail front. Order from an iPad menu, before settling back for cocktails made using mad scientist, molecular techniques that involve foam, vapor, beakers and other things you’d usually find in Professor Yaffle’s lab.

Plan B (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 508 316 976. Open Mon-Sat 13:00-last guest; Sun 16:00-last guest. Plan B is a byword for everything that’s hip and happening in Warsaw. Design doesn’t even come into the equation in this grubby upstairs bar, but the free spirits can’t get enough of it.

Po Drugiej Stronie Lustra (F1) ul. Jagiellońska 22, tel. 501 048 471. Open 12:00-last guest. A collective groan was issued when their premises on Ząbkowska closed, so it’s three cheers to learn they’re back at a new address. Looking more sanitized than the shabby original, the standout feature of this dark-looking, brick-ceilinged haunt is what ranks as Warsaw’s best collection of craft beers.

Porto Praga (F1) ul. Okrzei 23, tel. 22 698 5001, www.portopraga.pl. Open Mon-Thurs 12:001:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 12:00-24:00.

Some of Poland’s finest cocktails knocked up by a crew who learned their trade in some of the world’s top bars. Looking ruby red and vaguely art deco, Porto is a one stop destination: a top restaurant and bar shaken into one.

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Podroznik ul. Felińskiego 37. Open 10:00-last guest.

Featuring that great Warsaw rarity that is a fireplace Podroznik has an international air that’s announced by Tibetan flags, world beers, maps, masks and big hefty travel guides. And yes, you’re likely to get in conversation with backpackers here – upstairs lies the Wilson Hostel, an eco-friendly place equipped with solar panels and those weird pod beds you find at Japanese train stations – handy if your booze intake goes over the edge.

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Pracovnia ul. Popiełuszko 17. Open Sun-Thur 16:0024:00; Fri-Sat 16:00-3:00. Looking ramshackle and jumbled Pracovnia is one of the enduring

legends of Żoliborz. People flock from the other side of the city to party here, and the busy event calendar is as peculiar as they come – AstroLatin Rock Night and the Jah Love Sound System Evening being recent examples.

Sketch (E4) ul. Foksal 19, tel. 602 762 764, www.sketch. pl. Open daily 12:00-1:00; upstairs bar open Fri-Sat 20:00-1:00. Cool, sophisticated and fun. The international spread of beers is impressive, practically unbeatable in fact, and served inside edgy minimalist interiors.

SomePlace Else (E5) ul. B. Prusa 2 (Sheraton), tel. 22 450 6707.

Open Mon 12:00-24:00, Tue-Thur 12:002:00, Sat 16:00-2:00, Sun 12:00-23:00. SPE have a new cosmopolitan look that makes use of a glowing bar, Minsk grey colours and exposed piping. Certainly the hippest of the hotel gang, live music and expert cocktails make sure it draws more than the lodgers upstairs.

Spiskowcy Rozkoszy (D5) ul. Żurawia 47/49. Open Sun-Thur 15:0023:00; Fri-Sat 15:00-1:00. The intimate layout makes use of wobbly antiques, sofas covered in velvety fabrics and weird extras like a mannequin donning a Russian hat with furry, flappy ears. Nights typically involve lots of yet-to-be-famous beers (e.g. Stare Misto from Ukraine), while the lamp-lit toilet, seemingly built into a pre-war fireplace, is like stepping through the looking glass.

Spotkanie ze Szpiegiem (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 27/35. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-last guest; Sat-Sun 10:00-last guest.

You’d usually be right to avoid a place where the main decorative element is a fridge. But when that fridge is home to umpteen beers from Poland’s best, alternative breweries you know you’re on a winner. Little more than a small, rotund room, it’s immediately likeable – it’s got the ‘artistic’ spirit of the nearby Plan B, yet none of the vomit.

Syreni Śpiew ul. Szara 10A, tel. 602 773 293, www. syrenispiew.pl. Open Sun-Thurs 17:00-1:00; Fri-Sat 17:00-4:00. Brought to you by the creators of Warszawa Powiśle you’ll find this place housed in a hideous concrete monster born in the 70s. An over 21 door policy and over 80 types of whisky lend it a mature, affluent look. The interiors are cool and retro, much like the people. The prices, though,

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NIGHTLIFE aren’t so much modern as they are totally futuristic – bring plastic.

Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 621 8622. Open SunThu 12:00-24:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-03:00.

More than just a Tex Mex joint, this is the working model of the expat stronghold; they’ve got the food, the live music, a strong group of regulars and, better still, a spread of Sky Sports screens zapping in goalmouth action from across the world.

Warszawa Powiśle (E4) ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B. Open Mon-Fri 7:00last guest, Sat-Sun 10:00-last guest.Located in a former ticket shack, this place is all PRL concrete and peeling signage. Looking cheap and chipboard, visual diversions are limited to frayed posters promoting upcoming bands.

Instead, the eye candy comes in the form of the people.

Znajomi Znajomych (D5) ul. Wilcza 58A. Open Sun-Thurs 16:00-2:00; Fri-Sat 16:00-5:00. We’re not sure what kind of design they’ve opted for on the ground level, but either way it doesn’t work. Head upstairs instead to join the hipsters spread across a host of (smoking) rooms. It’s here Zna Zna comes into its own, with a set of chambers decorated in eclectic retro style – including one room which some would describe as a Ron Jeremy orgy room. Things get hot and sticky on their weekend club nights.

CLUBS 1500m2 (F4) ul. Solec 18, tel. 22 628 8412. Open Fri-Sat 22:00-06:00. Set in a former printing factory, 1500m2 has been central to the rise of Powiśle. The industrial space has a real Berlin edge to it, and events range from weekend flea markets to teeth shattering, dusk-tilldawn electro events.

The Bank (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 14, www.bankclub.pl.

Open Mon-Thur 18:00-24:00; Fri 18:00-06:00; Sat 22:00-6:00. With four bars spread across 1,500 meters of dance space The Bank makes an impression alright. The place is huge, though you won’t need GPS to track down the lookers.

Capitol Theatre and Club (C3) ul. Marszałkowska 115, tel. 22 826 8570, www. clubcapitol.pl. An extravagant dance space

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with sparkly chandeliers, regal staircases and a modern Moscow, over-the-top style. Mark the Hed Kandi events in your diary.

DeLite (E5) ul. Marii Konopnickiej 6, www.deliteclub.com.

Open Fri-Sat 21:00-last guest. Exposed brick pipes, raw concrete and an interesting mirror set-up in the bathrooms add to the futuristic, pretty-in-pink, spaceship interiors. Joining the top table of Warsaw’s other ‘uber klubs’ De Lite gets even better once access to the VIP room is scored.

Enklawa (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 22 827 3151, www.enklawa.com. Open Wed-Sat 21:004:00. Enklawa borders its glitz on kitsch but every weekend, it manages to draw in big crowds with its lineup of club and pop hits.

The dance floor is always packed, even on weekdays, and it’s a surefire winner as the top Wednesday in town.

then a Warsaw stalwart awaits. Writhing like a can of sweating worms, find a mid-20s party crowd enjoying house sounds inside a scabby looking space with flea bitten pics of Lenin & Co. Enter via a side door in the courtyard gateway and let the battle begin.

Luzztro (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, www.luzztro.pl. Open Tue-Sun 23:00-last guest. Feeling naughty?

Then check Luzztro, a grim, grotty den where rules don’t apply. Embedded in folklore, this after-party legend really kicks off at around 5am, when troglodyte club creatures emerge to put the finishing touches to their saucereyed stare. Your No. 1 choice for electro and minimal, it’s the full-tilt clubbing experience.

Your head will hate you.

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Minus ul. Chmielna 9. Open Fri-Sat 22:00-6:00. The design mimics everything you expect from a modern Warsaw club (flashing zips of light, glossy surfaces), but the music sets it apart with The Eve (D3) a bold dedication to house, deep house and Pl. Piłsudskiego 9 (corner of ul. Wierzbowa), progressive sounds. With numerous internatel. 22 827 5242, www.theeve.pl. Open tional acts lined up to play, as well as a powerful Wed-Fri 17:00-last guest; Sat 20:00-last sound system that leaves the teeth rattling, this guest. Beauty and booty come first in The Eve, could yet become a serious party choice. a blinged up offshoot of Platinium nearby.

Opera Club (D2) A cutthroat door policy ensures plenty of Underground of Teatr Wielki, Pl. Teatralny 1, egos crash and die at the door, and it’s got tel. 22 828 7075, www.operaclub.pl. Open a Bacchanalian reputation for champagne Fri & Sat 22:00-last guest. A labyrinth of popping high jinks. Observe them through passageways and chambers await in Opera, the one way mirror in the VIP room. a subterranean club located underneath the Foksal XVIII National Theater. Touting an exotic, far eastern ul. Foksal 18. Open Fri-Sat 10:00-4:00. look, it’s one of the best designed clubs you Composed using chandeliers, bricks and could imagine. velvet this classy space has gone head to head with The Eve as Warsaw’s flashest Organza venue: breathe deep and smell the money. ul. Mazowiecka 12, www.kluborganza.pl. Open Cardboard animal shapes hang from the bar, Wed-Sat 19:00-4:00. The layout is basic: set over adding some surreal humor to the seriously two floors lit in Organza’s signature orange/ competitive air. black colors, there’s not much to comment in terms of design – it’s shiny and new and all Jerozolima things Warsaw. The crowd though likes to party Al. Jerozolimskie 57. Set in a Gotham City and lacks the airs and arrogance of neighboring tenement this former children’s hospital fills establishments. a daytime role as a ‘creative space’ for artists Platinium (D3) and architects. As evening counts down find ul. Fredry 6, tel. 22 596 4666, numerous club events and music nights www.platiniumclub.pl. Open Wed-Sat 20:00taking shape amid the atmospherically lit, 6:00. The place if you’re rich or beautiful – but half-derelict looking confines. Keep up to preferably both. Large and spectacular you’ll speed with what’s on through Facebook. need to be dressed to the nines to reap the rewards that lie inside: featuring the most eye Klubokawiarnia (D3) ul. Czackiego 8, www.klubo.pl. Open daily candy per sq/m in Europe, you might not find 21:00-last guest. If you ignore the latent fire Mr/Mrs Right, but you will find Mr/Mrs Right hazard presented by this basement dive club for Now.

WARSAW INSIDER | DECEMBER 2012

NEW ORLEANS GENTLEMEN’S CLUB & RESTAURANT

THE ART OF ELEGANT SEDUCTION

BAR, RESTUARANT, NIGHT CLUB 11 ZGODA STREET, WARSAW WWW.NEWORLEANS.PL INFOONEWORLEANS.PL TEL. +48 22 826 48 31

NIGHTLIFE Shot Bars Bar Warszawa ul. Miodowa 2, Tel. 504 320 497.

Open 24hrs. Creak upstairs to find a womb-like space filled out with sofas and nostalgic decorations like vintage radios, pics of old stars and black and white images of bare-breasted ladies.

Run as a side hobby by a TV producer, the opening hours meet with full approval.

Meta ul. Mazowiecka 11 & ul. Foksal 21.

Open 11:00-6:00. Affecting the style of a PRL era bar, these twin venues feature a raft of keepsakes leftover from the old days – right down to chains of bog paper that commonly retailed.

Między Wódką z Zakąską ul. Chmielna 13. Open 10:00-24:00.

Like most of its ilk, design never gets involved here. But that doesn’t stop one of the most diverse crowds in Warsaw gathering: on our visit, that meant Hilfiger clad preppies arm-wrestling (and winning) against the local hoods Go Tommy! The five zlot plastic glasses of Brackie get the job done, and fast.

Pijalnia ul. Nowy Świat 19. Open 24hrs. Bowtied staff serve vodka and pickles from behind a tiled bar to a crowd that gets younger as the day gets older. In quieter times, check the newspaperd walls to read up on 1980s sports reports.

Przekąski Zakąski/Bistro ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, tel. 22 826 7936. Open 24 hours. Shots of vodka and plates of Polish stomach liners are dispensed inside a mirrored environment with droopy plants. It’s an after club must, with stern service guaranteed from agitated oldies dressed in tuxedos. Packed to the brim come three, four even five am.

Warszawska Pl. Zbawiciela 5, tel. 600 121 240. Open 24hrs. When Plan B closes the hardcore head here. Little more than a grey concrete room, this newbie is winning the war as the city’s favorite shot bar.

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Room 13 ul. Mazowiecka 13. Open Weds-Sat 22:13-7:00. Archways lead from one room to the next inside a design den defined by the fluffy clouds painted on the vaulted ceilings.

At times, the dance floor looks like a giant audition for X Factor, with the fallen angels on the wall looking on with feigned interest.

Watch Me ul. Mazowiecka 6/8, www.watchmeclub.pl.

Open 19:00-4:00. Watch the lack of customers, more like. Seen as a glass block from the outside, Watch Me unravels into a multi-level club space, one with a sunken dance pit and a neon stripped stairwell. When the Insider visited, staff outnumbered the guests.

GENTLEMAN’S CLUBS

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Coyote (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 6/8, www.coyotebar.eu.

Coyote Bar marks the start of the Mazowiecka, err, strip, and features a small bar in front and then a larger room with more intimate acts of friendship taking place behind the curtain.

Libido ul. Kredytowa 9, www.libidoklub.pl. It’s practically round the corner from the Zachęta Gallery, though you’ll probably enjoy the masterpieces here more. Run by the same team behind Sofia, this three floor mega club makes use of a location just up from Warsaw’s favorite upmarket party street: Mazowiecka.

New Orleans ul. Zgoda 11, tel.

22 826 4831, www. neworleans.pl. Open 21:00-4:00. High rollers looking to clinch a deal in unusual surrounds should consider doing so in New Orleans: a gentleman’s club with a seriously VIP dining area. Cheaper snack and sandwich options available should you prefer to spend your money on the real reason you’re here…

Playhouse Al. Solidarności 82A, www.playhouse.com. pl. Housed in a former bomb shelter, would you believe it. Now though the talk is of

WARSAW INSIDER | DECEMBER 2012

bombshells, namely the 57 they’ve got on their books. Like most clubs, this place features a distinctly Slavic lineup of Poles, Russians and Ukrainians.

Sin Club ul. Marszałkowska 99/101, www.sinclub. com.pl. One of the biggest and best dance stables in town offers a pleasingly international line-up that demonstrates a serious recruitment drive. You won’t find a more central strip club in town.

Utopia (D3) ul. Kredytowa 9. Formerly of Jasna, Warsaw’s first club to bring in serious door selection is back, and this time within a throw of the main party drag. Flying under a pseudo pink banner, it’s a love or loathe venue full of A-Z list stars and their hangers on.

JAZZ

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Bistro na Pięknej ul. Piękna 20, tel. 22 627 4151, www.jazzone. pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-24:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-24:00. A slick looking jazz spot that’s seen the benefit of a recent overhaul. Valued additions include a less austere style and what at times might feel like Warsaw’s only fireplace – and just in time for winter, and all.

Popular with a smart city crowd, keep an eye out for their live acts.

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Nu ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 621 8989. Open 10:00-24:00. For something a little educated take a date to Nu, a high-ceilinged effort with slick urban dashes and regular piano. The Żurawia location marks it out as a popular spot for a high-end crowd.

Tygmont Jazz Club (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 6/8, tel. 22 828 3409, www.tygmont.com.pl. Open daily 16:00-4:00.

For true jazz lovers, Tygmont is a breath of fresh air in a city up to its ears in terrible acoustics.

Jazzarium (D5) ul. Wilcza 50/52, tel. 601 327 634. Open Mon-Fri 8:30-last gues; Sat 18:00-last guest.

Owned by Mariusz Adamiak, Jazzarium is certainly the most serious of Warsaw’s jazz venues, with a reportoire that reflects the proprietor’s standing in the music biz. What looks like a pretty ordinary cafe, transforms the moment there’s a concert.

Reviews: Boudoir 26 75 / Plus:

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SHOPPING ACCESSORIES 78 / FASHION 75 / SHOPPING MALLS 78

Insider’s Pick

FASHION Bizuu ul. Koszykowa 1, tel. 609 888 363, www. bizuu.pl. A gorgeous, feminine collection from two talented Polish designers – including, the must need pastels of the coming season.

Boudoir 26 ul. Wilcza 11, tel. 22 400 9330, www.boudoir26.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. A unique luxury lingerie boutique selling top brands like Chantal Thomass, Lou Paris, ID Sarrieri and Chantelle. The boutique offers a high quality shopping experience inside a comfortable space. Shopping by appointment also available, where you can enjoy the shopping experience with a glass of bubbly.

Boudoir 26 ul. Wilcza 11, tel. 22 400 93 30, www.boudoir26.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00

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nevitably, as the temperatures dip in a wintery city like Warsaw, our skimpy dresses and culottes go into hiding and we hide our collarbones, midriffs and knees under bulky sweaters and wool trousers. No wonder the populations spirits dip sharply in the latter part of the year: suddenly, it seems like the parade of femininity that was on show through all spring and summer has vanished. But some women have a way to keep the festivities going no matter how frigid the weather – they turn up the heat with lovely, lacy, sensual underthings.

There are a few lingerie shops in the city, but most of them are filled with racks and racks of fussy pieces and horrendous fluorescent lighting that serves no purpose but to accentuate every flaw. But a stroll around my neighborhood led me to a special new spot perfect for women who are passionate about finding just the right undergarment in an elegant and comfortable setting. The window display is sophisticated and flirty, while inside the shop is warm and welcoming. The selection is fairly concise, with key pieces from Chantelle and Lou Paris up front, peppered with sexy thigh-high stockings by Parisian lingerie guru Chantal Thomass. In the back there’s more from Thomass: spanning seamless and functional to intricate and lacy. There’s a lounge area in the back and two spacious, well-designed fitting rooms. I’m an old-fashioned girl so I really love those vintage-inspired pieces that bring back the feel of Moulin Rouge at the turn of 19th century. But, of course, the hi-tech modern fit is an absolute must for comfort. The color scheme is minimal – blacks, whites, nudes, with a splash of red or violet mixed in.

The staff is extremely helpful, on par with the high quality of the inventory. This is miles above any of the other brands one might find at the mall: whether that’s Calvin Klein or Victoria’s secret. This is the absolute premium in lingerie and ideal for acquiring that perfect set to complete a sultry outfit for ushering in the New Year. Investing in frilly essentials is one way to endure the chilly wrath of Polish winter by adding a dash of passion to the everyday… and especially in the boudoir. (AL)

Chiara ul. Mokotowska 49, tel. 22 376 5489.

Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00.

A solid assortment of Marc Jacobs and other top international designers such as Michael Kors and Jil Sander. The current collection is a true tribute to S/S 2012 - bright colours, florals, platform heels and wedges.

Designer Secret Al. Witosa 31 (1st floor, outlet 119), CH Panorama, tel. 506 051 048, www.designersecret.pl. High end designer clothing brands at discount prices. The racks brim with women and men’s apparel from the 2008-2010 collections, with price tags that read from one third to 50% off the original price.

Eleven* ul. Wilcza 11, tel. 794 347 928, www. be-eleven.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11.00-19.00; Sat 11.00-16.00 (shopping by appointment also available). Find clothing, accessories and jewelry from a carefully selected portfolio that combines up-and-coming international brands such as Sandwich and Joseph Ribkoff with the best of Poland’s flourishing fashion scene. And what better way to contemplate this eclectic mix than with a glass of wine or an energizing espres-

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SHOPPING so in hand?

Frenchy Store ul. Wspólna 27A, tel. 500 541 473, www.frenchystore.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-17:00. A hip and urban fashion store with sneakers from Vans, Onistuka Tiger and Nike, clothing by Risk.

Made in Warsaw, and accessories by the likes of Mighty Wallet, Komono, Candy Crystal and SiS. L’Aura (E6) ul. Mokotowska 26, tel. 22 625 1680.

Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00.

Warsaw has its modest share of designer boutiques, but L’Aura is the only place in the city where you can find unique pieces from the likes of Hussein Chalayan, Dries Van Noten and Veronique Branquinho.

Likus Concept Store (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18 (courtyard), tel. 22 492 7409, www.likusconceptstore.pl. The Likus Concept Store brings ultra-chic designer clothing to Warsaw. The latest collections from Diesel, D2, Ferre, Sophia Kokosalaki and J. Lindeberg are all available and presented in this stylish three-floor department store.

Snobissimo ul. Mokotowska 28, tel. 22 629 8759 ul. Żurawia 2, tel. 22 628 2217 snob@snobissimo.pl, www.snobissimo.pl

Deha, Gianvito Rossi, Sona Rykiel, Les Copains, Paule Ka, Jimmy Choo, Giuseppe Zanotti, Wolford, Sergio Rossi

Loft Fashion ul. Burakowska 5/7 (2nd floor), tel. 22 636 0255, www.loft-fashion.pl. Open Mon-Fri 13:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-18:00. Everything the businessman requires: suits, shirts, shoes and cigars. Impeccable tri-lingual service in a top location. In July you can enjoy a summer clearance with 70% off.

Maciej Zień Boutique ul. Mokotowska 57, tel. 22 611 7337, www.zien.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. A flagship boutique from one of the stars of Polish fashion. Check Zień Home upstairs for the ultra-designer showroom.

Moliera 2 Boutique (D2) ul. Moliera 2, tel, 22 827 7099, office@moliera2.com, www.moliera2.com. Open MonFri 11:00-19:00, Sat 11:00-16:00. Moliera 2 is the first place in Poland with collections of Valentino, Christian Louboutin, Salvatore Ferragamo, Ralph Lauren Collection, Herve Leger, Moncler Gamme Rouge and Balmain.

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, tel. 22 622 14 16, store@plactrzechkrzyzy.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-17:00. The first Ralph Lauren store in Poland, features not only the latest RL collections for men and women, but also labels like Tod’s, Moncler and Salvatore Ferragamo. Ready-to-wear clothes and accessories.

QπШ - Robert Kupisz ul. Mokotowska 48 (courtyard), tel. 690 021 787, www.robertkupisz.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-14:00. One of Warsaw’s hottest fashion icons, and a trip here soon explains why. The exclusive, handmade garments are a guaranteed head turner, and Kupisz’s latest collection is a tribute to Americana: think disheveled cowgirls flouncing on the prairie.

Redford and Grant (D3) Metropolitan Building, Pl. Piłsudskiego 3, tel. 22 313 2400, www.redfordandgrant.pl.

Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat: 11:00-15:00.

This multibrand fashion store is the ultimate destination for designer style in Warsaw

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WARSAW INSIDER | DECEMBER 2012

Boutique: ul. Solec 18/20 Tue- Fri 13:00-19:00 Sat-Sun 13:00-17:00 +48 505 499 669 www.reykjavikdistrict.pl

SHOPPING for men and women. Offers clothing and accessories from the newest collections from all the major international designers like Dior, YSL, D&G, Gucci, Miu Miu and Prada.

Reykjavik District (F4) ul. Solec 18/20, tel. 501 399 222, www.reykjavikdistrict.com. Open Tues-Fri 13:00-19:00; Sat-Sun 13:00-17:00. Chic, wellcut menswear for all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal.

Rodrigo de la Garza (Ochota) ul. Bema 65, suite 6; www.delagarza.it.

Opening hours: by appointment. Rodrigo de la Garza is an eponymous menswear label started up by an ambitious young man from Mexico who’s happened to opt for Poland as his home base. The designer’s speciality is custom-made, or bespoke suits, ideally cut and in all the styles and patterns you could possibly conjure up.

See Me Boutique ul. Mokotowska 51/53, tel. 22 629 0404. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-17:00. Major pieces from American and European designers, including Paul & Joe, as well as the Elizabeth and James line from the Olsen twins.

Snobissimo ul. Mokotowska 28, tel. 22 629 8759, www.snobissimo.pl. Top labels from design houses like Jimmy Choo, Sonia Rykiel, Les Copains, Sergio Rossi etc., etc. With shoes and accessories all provided for, it’s a onestop shop to re-boot your wardrobe.

ACCESSORIES Batycki (various locations) ul. Zgoda 9 & ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44 (Bristol Hotel), tel. 22 828 2167, www.batycki.pl. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-16:00. Bozena Batycka’s sleek, simple handbag designs are made with italian leather. While her products are not inexpensive by Polish standards, their uniqueness combined with substantial durability make them a perenial favorite.

Church’s (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 10/14, tel. 22 745 0810.

Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-17:00.

A classic Englishman’s establishment stocking the world’s best dress shoes.

HOS&me ul. Mokotowska 63, www.mokotowska63.com.

Luxury jewelry and the best in the biz. In stock: high end treasures from Nialaya, Lene Bjerre Design, Ti Sento, Christensen and Dryberg/Kern.

Kate & Kate (D5) ul. Wspólna 50A/20, tel. 501 021 841, www.kateandkate.pl Open Mon-Fri 13:0019:00; Sat 10:00-14:00 This shop is so tucked away, you’d never find it without heads up from a friend. But once you do, be prepared to enter a world of brilliant accessories.

Pracownia Czasu ul. Wiejska 14, tel. 622 12 12,

Boudoir 26

ul. Wilcza 11 00-538 Warszawa Tel: 22 400 93 30 info@boudoir26.pl www.boudoir26.pl We are open monday-friday: 11-19 saturday: 11-15

www.pracowniaczasu.pl. Luxury watches from brands like Corum, Vulcain, Ulysee Nardin, Magellan and Fortis.

SHOPPING MALLS Arkadia (A1) Al. Jana Pawła II 82, www.arkadia.com.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 Galeria KEN Center/E. Leclerc (Ursynów) ul. Ciszewskiego 15. Open Mon-Thurs 9:0021:30; Fri 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00 Galeria Mokotów (C12) ul. Wołoska 12, www.galeriamokotow.com.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-20:00 Klif (A2) ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4500, www.klif.pl. Open Mon-Sat 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has everything from the excellent Bomi supermarket to top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko. To celebrate the centers revamped look, join them on December 1st and 2nd for fashion shows, concerts and food by Magda Gessler.

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Mysia 3 ul. Mysia 3. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00; Sun 12:00-18:00. Hip and high-end department store with units such as NYCity (DKNY, Elle MacPherson, Donna Karan), Berries & Co. (Ice Watch, Triwa, Ike Milano), UEG, My Paris and Take a Nap selling great pieces from both established and upcoming designers.

Promenada (Saska Kępa) ul. Ostrobramska 75c, www.promenada.com.

Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-19:00 Vitkac Wolf Bracka Wolf Center, ul. Bracka 9, www.likusconceptstore.pl Poland’s premier address for designer tags – you won’t find more designer labels per sq/m anywhere else. Money spenders inc. Jimmy Choo, Paul Smith, Stella McCartney, Jil Sander, Gucci, Bottega, Yves Saint Laurent, etc…

Złote Tarasy (C4) ul. Złota 59, www.zlotetarasy.pl.

Open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00 Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Health and Fitness Club.

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Reviews: Little Chef Cookery School 79

CHILDREN ACTIVITIES 79 / CAFES 80 / EDUCATION 80 / SHOPS 82

Insider’s Pick

ACTIVITIES Barwy Muzyki ul. Niecała 14, www.barwymuzyki.pl.

This informal music school, with highly qualified teachers experienced in the Colour Strings program, acknowledges not every child will be a professional musician but that playing, listening and singing to music is an asset to their development. Group or individual lessons on piano, violin, guitar, cello and flute for 6-12yrs.

Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, www.kopernik.org.pl. A brilliant array of science-inspired attractions that prove as stimulating for parents as they are for the kids. Check out Galeria BZZZ, an area designated for children up to six. In order to keep numbers manageable, expect entry times to be staggered.

Little Chef Cookery School ul. Kierbiedza 4, tel. 501 093 691, www.littlechef.pl.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY GILL BOELMAN-BURROWS

T

he use of ginger during the festive season has long been a tradition around the world.

Britain has the ginger snap, Holland speculaas, Scandinavians have pepparkakor and here in Poland, good old fashioned gingerbread is known as pierniki. In fact, it’s so popular here that the city of Toruń has a museum dedicated solely to gingerbread. In 2001 they even attempted to make the largest gingerbread house in the world, and while they lost to the Americans it didn’t deter the nation from its love for edible decorations.

Anyhow, to get the Christmas spirit going with seasonal family fun we decided to make our very own gingerbread house. One problem – mummy is terrified of baking let alone tackling royal icing! But I’m not afraid to ask for help and who better to call in a culinary emergency than Little Chef…

Without hesitation Katia accepted the challenge to teach us some of the tricks hidden under the hats of many a Polish babcia. And thank the Lord she did, because little did I know that after ginger even honey, cloves, cinnamon and aniseed can go into traditional dough! Apparently these spices will linger, not only on our palette but also on our minds, thus making childhood memories to stand the test of time.

With correct measurements the dough is straightforward. After cutting and baking shapes that resemble six sides of a house it’s best to wait a day for the gingerbread to harden. Next challenge, royal icing! Mixing egg whites and confectioners’ sugar sounds simple and with Little Chef’s high tech gadgetry it is.

The final task is the fun part; decorating. According to Katia and Little Chef’s organic ethos, traditional gingerbread should be adorned with natural products such as cinnamon sticks, nuts, cloves and raisins. Unfortunately, my daughter had other plans and covered our house in licorice allsorts, sprinkles and fruit gums – I blame the Brothers Grimm! On completion, we sat satisfied with steaming cups of ginger tea admiring our masterpiece, until my daughter asked: “Can we make a whole village?” Try yourself: Polish and Englishlanguage trial classes are priced at zł. 65, with groups split into age groups. (GBB)

Fryzjerkowo ul. Foksal 12/14, www.fryzjerkowo.pl. This 100% child friendly hair salon with jungle theme interior will guarantee no tears! Whilst having their locks chopped children sit in a toy car and watch a favorite DVD. Mum can peruse the retro toys and classic books on sale. Owner speaks excellent English.

Advance booking recommended.

Fundacja Atelier ul. Foksal 11, www.atelier.org.pl. Situated in an atmospheric 19th century building this foundation organizes affordable/flexible workshops to develop and inspire art education and creative skills (painting/drawing/ sculpture/art history) for children, young people and adults.

HulaKula ul. Dobra 56/66, www.hulakula.com.pl. Bowling alley and soft indoor playground: heaven for kids and hell for grown-ups! Children love to climb, explore and slide into large ball pools. Parents hate the lack of daylight and fast food menu.

Little Chef Cooking classes for children age 4-16.

Groups for younger children age 4-10 and

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CHILDREN Junior Chef courses age 11-16. Kids cookand-eat healthy meals. Great fun! Classes in English, French and Polish, Mon-Sat. Visit www.littlechef.pl or call 0501 093 691 for more information.

Little Gym ul. Bruzdowa 56, tel. 22 842 0728, www.thelittlegym.

Over 300 locations worldwide, with the first one in Poland opened last November. Expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-to-child ratio, original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. Not only a great place for children, but tailored to a comfortable and relaxing stay for parents as well.

Teatr Lalka Pl. Defilad 1 (Palace of Culture), www.teatrlalka.waw.pl. This puppet theatre stages a variation of productions suitable for children aged 3 +. Scenery, props and costume design are impressive but Polish dialogue is challenging! Losing the plot to Hansel and Gretel can happen - prepare to improvise! Tip: organize a backstage birthday party.

Zachęta Gallery Pl. Małachowskiego 3, www.zacheta.art.pl.

Recently undergone extensive modernization but still awaiting a café, this gallery and bookshop offer a perfect introduction to modern art. Also available are weekend workshops for children and original cultural birthday

parties guided by experienced animators in a contemporary environment.

CAFES Figa z Makiem (Saska Kępa) ul. Walecznych 64, figazmakiem.edu.pl. One of the latest and greatest addition to the growing roster of Warsaw kid cafes. Do some well selected designer kids shopping while waiting, or simply browse the books and toys section while your little ones romp in the kids room.

Kolonia (B7) ul. Łęczycka (corner of Ładysława), tel. 605 084 804, www.kolonia-ochota.pl.

Open daily 10:00-20:00. Equipped with a garden/playground, Kolonia is the most kid-friendly (and pet-friendly) place in the area, offering fresh daily specials.

Kosmos Kosmos ul. Koszykowa 55. Open 11:00-last guest; Sun 12:00-last guest. The design fuses retro with rock, while the children’s area comes with a handmade puppet theater, cardboard castle and enticing kids menu. ‘Fun workshops’ take place at noon each Saturday.

Kredkafe al. Wyzwolenia 14, tel. 22 622 1561, www.kredkafe.pl. Open daily 10:00-20:00.

The interiors look great, bright and cheerful with cute cartoon sketches and an entire playroom complete with toys, stuffed animals

and a playhouse. There is even a mini-theater where the kids can put on puppet shows.

Bathrooms, of course, have baby-change facilities. The brainchild of two women with experience in hospitality and pedagogy, part of the idea of Kredkafe was to create a teaching space.

My Baby Café ul. Nowoursynowska 147, www.mybabycafe.pl.

A bright and airy café serving good food and great coffee at reasonable prices. Downstairs is the Holy Grail – shiny new toys, a mini kitchen for the girls, a tool bench for the boys, and a large playhouse (real doorbell and all!).

They even provide a nanny at no extra cost!

Paradise for kids and heaven for Mums.

Pompon (Wola) ul. Młynarska 13, www.pompmart.pl.

An organic menu and a gated play area equipped with slides, rope bridges and a selection of Wendy houses mark out Pompon, while the Nintendo Wii room is as popular with dads as it is with their lads.

Nowa Kuźnia (Wilanów) ul. Stanisława Kostki-Potockiego 24, www.nowakuznia.pl. Hugely child friendly, Nowa Kuźnia comes into its element each summer when the garden is turned into a giant faux beach – complete with diggers, slides and a see-saw.

Sto900 (E3) ul. Solec 18/20, tel. 787 696 241. Open 9:00-22:00; Fri 9:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-22:00. Popular with trendy families wheeling retro prams, Sto900 has a separate children’s zone with a playschool feel.

Umpa Lumpa ul.Mickiewicza 24, tel. 22 245 1909, umpalumpa.pl. Open Mon-Fri 7:00-19:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-19:00. Bit part café, most part candy store. Colorfully designed, shelves here feature an array of rainbow colored lollipops, sweets and chocolate. Spoil your toddler, and yourself while you’re there.

EDUCATION PRESCHOOLS

Bilingual French – Polish Preschool “Trampoline” ul. Zakopiańska 12a (Saska Kępa) and ul. Skrzetuskiego 17 (Mokotów),mob.

502 355 919, www.trampoline.edu.pl.

This preschool has a lingual profile and offers

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bilingual teaching with French and English.

They received the European Label Certificate for innovative foreign language teaching.

The British School Early Years Centre ul. Dąbrowskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel.

22 646 7777; ul. Limanowskiego 15 (Primary, Secondary, IB Diploma program), tel. 22 842-3281; www.thebritishschool.pl. The British School provides special classes from the pre-nursery group – including children from preschool through secondary school.

Canadian School of Warsaw – Preschool (C11) ul. Kalatówki 24, tel. 22 898 3139, 697 979 100. The pre-school branch of the Canadian School of Warsaw provides both Polish and International 3-5 year olds with the perfect setting for their first encounters with English and French in an inquiry based classroom. Here, every task relates to real life experience and skills. For further info, English-run preschool tours and school visitsul. please callŁanowej or email: Piechoty 46a Authentic Montessori (entrance from ul. Rotmistrzowska) preschool@canadian-school.pl. curriculum Unique music program Natural playground Healthy nutrition

tel. +48 531 599 444 www.mapletreemontessori.pl

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations)

Warsaw Montessori School ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www.warsawmontessori.edu.pl.

Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have 3 green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in earlychildhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. Call to make an appointment to tour any of the 3 schools.

Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupéry (H4) ul. Nobla 16, tel./fax: 22 616 1499, www.saintexupery.pl. Montessori curriculum in French for children aged from 2½ years old.

The English Playhouse (F12)

ul. Płyćwiańska 14a & ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 22 843 9370, www.theenglishplayhouse.com. The English Playhouse functions in the quiet, green residential district of Mokotów, next to Królikarnia Park. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months till six years old. Now with an additional location in Wilanów which includes a new, purpose-built pre-school building with a huge garden for children up to six years of age.

For info call Agnieszka Weston on 604 464 333 or email: office@theenglishplayhouse.com.

Happy Montessori House Warsaw Montessori Pre-school, ul. Rumiana 14, tel. 22 427 3767, mob. 697 060 504, www.hmh.com.pl.

The Happy Montessori House offers part-time and full-time places for children aged between 2.5 to 6 years, as well as toddler-focused activities (from 18 months to 3 years) centered around movement, sensorial stimulation, storytelling, singing and socialising.

Maple Tree Montessori ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46a (entrance from ul.

Rotmistrzowska), tel.

531 599 444, www.mapletreemontessori.pl.

Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by an Orff/ Kodály-based music syllabus. Find them located in the Wilanów district of Warsaw, in a house safely nestled into the end of a quiet street. Their program, which is designed for three to six year-olds, is devoted to the intellectual, emotional, social and physical development of children.

International Schoolhouse Warsaw

Montessori Academy for International Children ul. Królewicza Jakuba 36 (Wilanów) ul. Sadowa 4 (Konstancin), tel. 502 315 022, www.monte ssoriacademy.eu. An English-speaking pre-school (16 months to 6 years of age) with two locations. The school’s policy is to comply with Montessori standards, using the Montessori Method in English. The school’s philosophy is based on the joy of learning, which comes from discovering and furthering the individual development of each child.

Tequesta ul. Przejazd 24,

tel. 603 919 096/535 400 033, info@tequesta.pl, www.tequesta.pl. Polish and English language groups for children aged from six months to six years, as well as a wide range of extra-curricular activities.

SCHOOLS American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202, Konstancin-Jeziorna, tel. 22 702 8500, fax 022 702 8500, admissions@aswarsaw.org, www.aswarsaw. org. The American School of Warsaw provides comprehensive programs and facilities based on a US system of education for ages 4 to 18.

The British School ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, british@thebritishschool.pl, www.thebritishschool.pl. Top-ranking private school in Warsaw with comprehensive programs and facilities based on the British system of education.

The Canadian School of Warsaw – Primary School Unit ul. Bełska 7, tel. 22 646 9289, 697 970 244.

The Canadian School of Warsaw provides a continuum of IB-based education for 6-10 year olds. Highly qualified, international staff, challenging materials and a friendly atmosphere provides for an optimal setting for the highest standard of education.

Extra-curricular activities include pottery, dance, ballet, capoeira, karate, emotional intelligence, art studio and tennis. For further info, tours and school visits please call or email: secretary@canadian-school.pl.

The Canadian School of Warsaw – Middle and High School Unit ul. Olimpijska 20, tel. 697 977 600, 697 979 300.

The Middle and High unit of the Canadian School of Warsaw provides a continuum of IB-based education for 11-19 year olds. With both Canadian and Polish curricula content students are given the opportunity to choose between Polish Matura or IB Diploma exams.

International staff, cultural events and

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CHILDREN challenging student initiatives create a perfect learning and creative thinking environment.

For further info, tours and school visits please call or email: mid.high@canadian-school.pl.

Ecole Antoine de SaintExupéry (H4) Established in 1994, the Antoine de SaintExupery preschool and school provides a French curriculum for children two to eight years old (3rd year of primary school) in a welcoming family atmosphere. Highly qualified native

French-speaking teachers.

Kid’s Academy Primary & Pre-School ul. Arbuzowa 33D (Wilanów), ul. Łąkowa 38 (Konstancin), tel. 501 205 080, www.kidsacademy.com.pl. A Private English Polish School which provides an excellent early educational program for children from ages 2.5 - 5 years old and at the Primary School, from Grade 0. Combining elements of both the Polish and British curriculum, the focus is on creating a positive and vibrant learning environment. They’re also proud of their large playground and variety of healthy foods.

Lycée Français de Varsovie ul. Walecznych 4/6, tel. 22 616 5400, www.lfv.pl. French school admitting students from the age of two years old. All instruction is in French. Languages offered : Polish, English, German, Spanish, Latin. Also, a wide variety of after school activities (sport, arts, extra-curricular instruction).

Warsaw Montessori School (G7) ul. Szwoleżerów 4, tel. 22 841 3908, sylvia@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www.warsawmontessori.edu.pl. Focuses on the Montessori curriculum with an education based on the integration of conceptual learning and real-life experiences.

SHOPS The English-speaking preschool for children from the international community

22 843 9370 784 037 808

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year Casa dei Bambini Warsaw Montessori School accepting applications for all our locations and programs:

Toddler: age 1.5-2,5 Casa: age 2.5-6 Elementary: age 6-9,9-12

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Szwolezerów 4, Warszawa Badowska 19, Warszawa Szkolna 16, Izabelin

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Endo Multiple locations, www.endo.pl. Endo is the original home of quality children’s wear that embraced great design by Polish artists and accompanied it with Polish slogans. Much of the materials used are organic, hardwearing and wash well. A good address for baby basics and all closet essentials.

Mimbla ul.Mokotowska 51/53, www.cudanakiju. pl. Exclusively for kids on Warsaw’s most exclusive shopping street it’s an Aladdin’s cave of quality toys and Polish/English books. Get your gift wrapped here and both mum and child will be happy even before opening it.

Pieluszkarnia Multiple locations, www.pieluszkarnia.pl.

This small chain specializes in eco-friendly toys and clothing designed and produced in Poland. Products include the Lalanka dolly clothing collection, luxuriously soft reversible winter balaclavas and Martello blankets personalized for births etc.

www.warsawmontessori.edu.pl office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl

Contact Ela: tel. 692 099 134

WARSAW INSIDER | DECEMBER 2012

Smyk Multiple stores, www.smyk.pl. Smyk is Poland’s answer to Mothercare; from bottle sterilizing kits to pencil cases, early learning toys to Disney classics and a wide range of seasonal clothing, this store will take you from childbirth to high school!

Reviews: Retro Day Spa 83 / Plus:

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LIFESTYLE

ACCOMODATION 83 / COMMUNITY 90 / HEALTH & BEAUTY 86 / MEDICAL 88 / TRANSPORTATION 85

ACCOMODATION

Insider’s Pick

HOTELS IN WARSAW 5-star hotels

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H15 Boutique Apartments (D5) ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 553 8700, www.h15boutiqueapartments.com. Luxury short and long-term stay accommodation inside stunning Italian furnished apartments in the city center.

Retro Day Spa Al. Ujazdowskie 18/11, no. 311, tel. 22 622 03 69, www.retrodayspa.pl. Open Mon - Fri 10:00-22:00; Sat 10:00-21:00.

E

very time December rolls around I encounter the same problem: what to get my best friend for Christmas. What makes it all the more impossible is that her birthday is right around the corner, too. So whatever I get her really has to be a double whammy. Triple whammy, in fact, as she just told me she’s pregnant. She’s already stocked up on all the lotions and oils to keep her toned as her belly begins to stretch. For this very same reason, clothes aren’t really an option either and she really has quite enough scarves. So after about an hour of racking my brain, I had it – a spa treatment just for a lady who’s preggers.

A couple of spas around Warsaw offer spa treatments for pregnant women, but in the end, location won out. We both live in the center, so it made sense for us to make our way over to Al. Ujazdowskie and check out the old-fashioned promise of the Retro Day Spa. It certainly didn’t disappoint. The interiors are royally indulgent, as if you’d walked into the private quarters of a 19th century Duchess. The staff is very polite and the atmosphere is generally laid back. It’s got a private sort of vibe, with just two main treatment rooms filled with old-school paintings and furniture.

The ultimate test came when my friend decided she preferred to opt for just a leg and foot massage, instead of the whole shebang because she didn’t really feel like getting undressed. There was no trouble at all, the staff catered to her requests as I sat beside her and chattered away as I caught her up on the enigmatic faces gracing the pages of all those trashy gossip mags. We had an incredibly pleasant evening having some muchneeded girl time as Kasia prepares for introducing a new little person into this world. As for her feedback: “It was great to just sit back and get pampered for an hour.” And kudos to me for putting it all together! (AL)

Hilton Warsaw (B4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555, www.hilton.com. Single and double room €95-125 (weekend), €135 (weekdays).

Excellent services and amenities in a world-class hotel and conference centre.

Holmes Place Lifestyle Club offers premium fitness facilities.

Hyatt Regency Warsaw (E8) ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, www.warsaw.regency@hyatt.com, www.warsaw.regency.hyatt.com.

InterContinental (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com. Single & double rooms: €95-155. Riverview Wellness Centre and swimming pool on top floor.

Le Meridien Bristol (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1000, www.starwoodhotels.com. Single room: €129-159, double room: €139-169.

Fitness centre, gym, swimming pool, sauna.

Mamaison Le Régina Hotel Warsaw (C1) ul. Kościelna 12, tel.22 531 6000, www. mamaison.com. Muffle up for an evening prowl around old town, before spoiling yourself inside the desginer confines of this boutique masterpiece. Prices start from

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LIFESTYLE approx. €115, but it’s well worth your time browsing their ‘romantic break’ and ‘just married’ packages.

hotel guests only.

Westin (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, www.westin.com/warsaw. Single & double rooms: €77-126. Gym and sauna.

Marriott (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 6306, www.warsawmarriott.com. Prices from: zł.

231 (weekends), zł. 528 (weekdays). Gym and swimming pool. Central location only 20 minutes from the airport. All rooms with panoramic view.

4-star hotels

Radisson Blu (B5) pl. Zawiszy 1, tel. 22 579 1000, www.sobieski.com.pl. Single & double rooms €60-94. Gym, jacuzzi, sauna.

The Rialto Boutique Hotel (D6) ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8700, www.hotelrialto.com.pl. Top-class boutique hotel in the centre of Warsaw. Single room: €140, double room: €170, apartment: €220.

24-hour fitness centre for guests only.

Sheraton (E5) ul. Prusa 2, www.sheraton.com/warsaw, tel. 22 450 6100. Single & double rooms: €77126. Fitness centre, aerobic studio, sauna.

Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel (C3) ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888. Single & double rooms zł. 420-490 (weekend rate from zł.250). First Class Fitness Centre.

Sofitel Victoria (D3) ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8011, www.orbis.pl. Single & double rooms: €95200. Swimming pool now open to the public.

Airport Hotel Okęcie ul. 17-ego Stycznia 24, tel. 22 456 8000, www.airporthotel.pl. Airport Hotel Okęcie is located 800 m from Warsaw Frederic Chopin Airport. Single & double rooms: €155, €123 (weekdays). Single & double rooms: €70-80 (weekends). Jacuzzi, sauna, tennis courts, and gym.

Holiday Inn (C4) ul. Złota 48/54, tel. 22 697 3999, www.holiday-inn.com. Single room: €100 (weekend), €124 (weekdays), double room: €120 (weekend), €144 (weekdays). Gym, jacuzzi, sauna.­

3-star hotels

Mercure Grand Warszawa (D4) ul. Krucza 28, tel. 22 583 2100, www.orbis.pl.

Single & double rooms: €78-112.

Castle Inn (D1) Pl. Zamkowy, ul. Świętojańska 2, tel. 22 425 0100, www.castleinn.pl.

Single & double rooms (Standard castle view): zł.190-290. Deluxe apartments: zł. 279-430. Breakfast: zł. 20. Artsy boutique accomodation on the castle square. For cheaper alternative, check their downtown hostel branch, the Oki Doki

Hotel Belwederski (E8) ul. Sulkiewicza 11, tel. 22 840 4011, www.hotelbelwederski.pl. Single room: zł. 240, double room: zł. 280. On weekends 20% discount (Fri-Mon). Breakfast included.

Courtyard by Marriott Hotel (Airport) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 0100, www.courtyard.com/wawcy. Single & double rooms: €135 (weekdays), €99 (weekend).

Novotel Warszawa Centrum (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 94/98, tel. 22 596 0000, www.novotel.com, www.accorhotels.com.

Single and double rooms: zł.265-480.

Wellness centre and sauna.

Golden Tulip (B5) ul. Towarowa 2, tel. 22 582 7500. Single & double rooms: Mon.-Fri. zł. 369, weekend: zł. 299, breakfast (buffet): zł. 32. Sauna, jacuzzi, fitness room.

Polonia Palace Hotel (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. 22 318 2800, www.poloniapalace.com. Single & double rooms: €60-235. 24-hour fitness centre for

Warsaw Gromada Hotel Airport ul. 17-ego Stycznia 32, tel. 22 576 4600, warszawa.airport@gromada.pl. Single &

VISIONAPARTMENTS EXCLUSIVE APARTMENTS IN WARSAW’S CENTER Could we wake your interest?

Call us on (+48) 22 292 88 88 or visit www.visionapartments.eu.

Vision Warsaw Sp. z o.o.

Al. Jerozolimskie 81/ 22 – 02-001 Warsaw Tel: (+48) 22 292 88 88 www.visionapartments.eu

Zurich

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Lausanne

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Geneva

WARSAW INSIDER | DECEMBER 2012

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Vienna

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Berlin

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Munich

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Warsaw

double rooms: zł. 250-420 (weekdays), single & double rooms: zł. 200-330 (weekends). Sauna, gym, free for hotel guests.

Holiday Inn Express Warsaw Airport ul. Poleczki, www.hiexpress.com. Three minutes from the airport, the Express chapter of Holiday Inn is opening on 30 November and already accepting bookings. Check web for further details.

Novotel Warszawa (Airport) ul. 1-ego Sierpnia 1, tel. 22 575 6000, nov.airport@orbis.pl. Single & double rooms: €120-135. Swimming pool, jacuzzi, tennis court, Finnish sauna, power plate.

Reservations: tel. 22 500 1620, 800 143 789.

Sixt Rent a Car ul. Arabska 9, tel. 22 511 1550, 22 511 1555, fax 22 511 1556, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 2031, fax 022 650 2032, www.sixt.pl.

RELOCATION COMPANIES AGS Warsaw ul. Julianowska 37, Piaseczno, tel. 22 702-1072, fax 022 702-1077.

Besto Relocations

ul. Kłobucka 8 /127, tel. 22 847 8878, mob. 514 643 286, warsaw@bestorelocations.com, www.bestorelocations.com. High-quality international relocation services to and from Poland for corporate and individual clients.

CorstJens Worldwide Movers Group ul. Nowa 23, Stara Iwiczna, tel. 22 737 7200, www.corstjens.com.

Express Relocations ul. Szyszkowa 35/37, tel. 22 878 3539,

APARTMENTS

InterContinental ul. Emili Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com.

Long and short stay apartments provided by the hotel of the same name. Perks included are the same as those received by hotel guests: i.e. access to the top floor pool, room service, maid service etc.

MaMaison Residence Diana ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 9100, www.mamaison.com/diana. A beautiful city center location from the same team behind Le Regina. Short and long term stays.

P & O Apartments ul. Kasprowicza 91, tel. 22 636 8699, www.pandoapartments.com.pl.

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Vision Apartments Al. Jerozolimskie 81 (22nd floor), tel. 22 292 88 88, www.visionapartments.eu.

Luxury long-stay apartments courtesy of this German-born company. ‘Design is our main aim’, they say, and that’s reflected by expertly designed lodgings with a high element of modern style.

TRANSPORTATION CAR RENTAL

Avis (C5) tel. 22 572 6565, fax 22 572 6566, Fredrick Chopin Airport, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 650 4872/3.

Reservations: tel. 801 120 010, www.avis.pl.

Hertz Rent a Car Okęcie Airport, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 2896; mob. 691 411 130. ul. Nowogrodzka 27 (D5), tel. 22 621 1360.

Opened in 1997, over the last 15 years we have cooperated with L’Oréal Proffesionel, Schwarzkopf Professional and Kerastase – not only did such cooperation teach us the secrets of caring for hair, their willingness to work with us confirmed that we are admired not just by our clients but other professionals in our field. We follow the latest trends and guarantee the highest level of customer care.

For January we recommend 50 zł gift vouchers for hair dyeing valid in all Hair Max salons.

Al. KEN 14 / ul. Wańkowicza 4 / Al. Tysiąclecia 7,www.hairmax.pl,

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LIFESTYLE www.expressrelocations.com.

Euro Move International Movers ul. Kineskopowa 1, Piaseczno, tel. 22 716 5566, moving@euromove.pl, www.euromove.pl.

Interdean International Relocation ul. Geodetów 172, Piaseczno, tel. 22 701 7171, fax 22 701 7177, warsaw@interdean.com, www.interdean.com. With 120 relocation service centres and employs 3,150 international relocation services staff across Europe and EMEA, and over 600 alliances worldwide.

Move One Relocations tel. 22 630 8160, poland@moveoneinc.com, www.moveoneinc.com. Also immigration assistance, fine art shipping, pet transport and consulting services. Award-winning service from a company that’s been active in the field since 1992.

HEALTH & BEAUTY SPAS & SALONS

Beauty Secret/Spa/Retreat ul. Nowowiejska 38, Józefów, tel. 22 789 2016, www.beautysecret.pl.

Located about 20 km outside of Warsaw, Beauty Secret is the place to go and recharge your batteries, relax and get pampered.

B&B Clinic ul. Grzybowska 3, tel. 22 403 65 72, www.bbclinic.pl. An array of body and beaity treatments inside pristine five star facilities.

Whether you want to slim down using the latest technologies, rejuvenate the skin or relax during a massage, there’s few better qualified. 10% for Insider readers.

Bio.Sis Nail Spa ul. Koszykowa 31, tel. 22 621 1404, www.nailspabiosis.pl. A top spot for a classic manicure or pedicure – they also do lots of complicated things with gels and other hi-tech nail discoveries.

BodyClinic ul. Oboźna 9 lok. 104, tel. 22 826 1160, www.bodyclinic.pl. Thorough body care for everyone. From the usual options to a huge variety of massages and some very exotic treatments, BodyClinic covers all the bases.

Club Oasis Spa Hotel Hyatt, ul. Belwederska 23, Level -3, tel.

22 851 0563, www.cluboasis.pl. Not just for hotel guests, Oasis is one of the top fitness clubs and spas in Warsaw. Amazing Clarins body firming and rejuvenating treatments, facials, reflexology and wide range of massages at the beauty center round out a healthy lifestyle.

The Cutting House – Exclusive Hairdressing (E5) ul. Wiejska 20, www.cuttinghouse.pl, tel. 22 622 6362. The Cutting Salon has an elegant polish on a contemporary design and a wide variety of celebs, diplomats and your run-ofthe-mill fashionista dropping in for a trim or a manicure. You will not be disappointed.

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Dotyk SPA ul. Biały Kamień 3, tel. 22 898 7272, www.dotykspa.pl Probably the only place in Warsaw where you’ll get a facial yoga session.

Going futher East, treat yourself to Japanese, Polynesian or Indian massage.

Dior Institute and Dessange Beauty Salon Metropolitan Building, pl. Piłsudskiego 1, tel. 22 331 0808, www.diorinstitut.com.

This sleek boutique offers a state-of-the-art treatment room and professional staff for all your pampering needs.

DS Instytut Al. Ujazdowskie 24, tel. 22 622 13 81, www. dsinstytut.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:00-20:00; Sat 8:00-16:00. Different treatments: some relaxing, some energizing, some both! The latest player on the block has set its cards on technology, packing a pretty penny into state-of-the-art machines that deliver Hollywood results.

Fabryka Próżnosci ul. Cecylii Śniegockiej 8 lok.101, tel. 22 312 1909, www.fabrykaproznosci.pl. Has a full suit of facials, massages (all the main schools are represented); competitive prices, and plenty of English-speaking therapists.

Fish Spa ul. Wilcza 11, tel. 22 414 3737, www.fishspainstytut.pl. Let 200 Garra Rufa fish do the work on your pedicure and manicure. Alternatively, enjoy more traditional (ie. less fishy) facials and body massages – all at reaonable prices in the heart of the center.

Fiuu Fiuu Day Spa ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 629 2414, www. fiuufiuu.pl. A wonderful quick fix salon that makes use of the latest Ericson products.

Hair Club Warsaw ul. Kruczkowskiego 6, tel. 22 828 0288, www.hairclubwarsaw.pl. Hair Club dispense with the farce and make your hair look great.

They also provide manicures and pedicures and even throw in a decent free coffee.

Izar Repechage ul. Moliera 1, tel. 22 827 7195, www.repechage.net.pl. A gorgeous city spa which a range of treatment for the whole body.

Le Spa (E5) ul. Mokotowska 55, tel. 22 622 9428.

This little island of peace and beauty takes you light-years away from the bustle of Warsaw.

Multico Wellness & Spa ul. Bitwy pod Rokitną 1 (in Old Żoliborz), tel. 22 869 9631, www.multico.pl. A modern fitness center and gorgeous pool make this a chic place to work out and relax.

Now offers spa services and great massages.

Pearl Spa at the InterContinental (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49, 43 floor, tel. 22 328 8643, www.pearlspa.pl. This bright and full of windows spa has an eclectic menu of “body rituals” such as the Maghreb ritual and Ayurvedic massages.

The Pedicure Place ul. Pokorna 2, tel. 22 241 3000, www.pedicure-place. pl. Open Mon-Fri 9:00-21:00; Fri-Sat 9:00-18:00. A luxury pedi/manicure clinic with room for 10. All the latest OPI varnishes and over 200 colors guarantee you’ll find the latest in styling and nail care.

Similan ul. Wiertnicza 120, tel. 22 858 16 48, www. similan.pl. Open Tue-Sun 11:00-22:00. Allow the stresses of everyday city life to evaporate at Similan; the Thai massages are relaxing, detoxifying and stimulating.

Studio Jej i Jego ul. Wiertnicza 93A, tel. 22 885 0085, www.jejijego.pl. Hair and beauty treatments for men and women – inc. nail care, massage, facial and body treatments.

Sungate Beauty & Spa Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 2, tel. 22 582 9474, 517 012 880, www.spasungate.pl.

Open 10:00-24:00. A feast for all five senses, Sungate offers a wide range of massages, face and body treatments as well as a VIP room for couples.

FITNESS CLUBS

Club Oasis Fitness Centre & Spa (E8) Hotel Hyatt, ul. Belwederska 23, Level -3, tel. 22 851 0563, www.cluboasis.pl. Not just for hotel guests, Oasis is one of the top fitness clubs and spas in Warsaw, with state-of-the-art machines, great pool and Zen-like ambiance.

Fitness Centre at the Radisson (E8) SAS Centrum Hotel, ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888. Fitness club, swimming pool, sauna, gym, group classes in one of Warsaw’s best five stars. zł.100 per day.

Fitness Centre at the Sheraton Hotel (E5) ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6100, www.sheraton. com/warsaw. Fitness center, aerobic studio, sauna. Price: zł. 3,420/year.

Holmes Place Lifestyle Club at the Hilton Hotel (B4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 630 6306, www.holmesplace.pl. Premium fitness and

Brought to you by:

Fiuu Fiuu Day Spa invites you to experience Warsaw’s best spa and beauty treatments in an elegant and quiet setting, as endorsed by brand ambassadors designer Robert Kupisz and actress Małgorzata Kożuchowska.

On offer: • Facial and body treatments • Eyelash extensions • Endermology • Manicures and pedicures • Make up application • Massages • Hair styling •Reservations for private parties Fiuu Fiuu Day Spa ul. Mokotowska 48, Tel. 22 629 24 14; 22 625 24 14, www.fiuufiuu.pl

SCHOLA POLONICA

SCHOLA POLONICA offers a complete language service: Polish language tuition, translation and interpretation services.

CONVENIENCE • First lesson free • Flexible hours • Individually tailored program • Lessons in your classroom or office • Individual or group courses • All levels

CORPORATE GROUP TRAINING MANUALS, AND E- LEARNING & AUDIO-VIDEO program created by our school

POLISH FOR FOREIGNERS ul. Jaracza 3 lok. 19; 00–378, Warszawa tel. (48) 22 625 26 52 www.schola.pl office@schola.pl

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LIFESTYLE leisure centre that offers a wide and diverse range of activities, top quality training equipment and expert staff. Holmes Place also operates two more Energy Clubs in Galeria Mokotów and Arkadia.

RiverView Wellness Centre at the InterContinental Hotel (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8640, www.riverview.com.pl. Top-class facilities and equipment, private instructors and small classes. The view from the pool offers a glorious panoramic view of the city.

MEDICAL MEDICAL PRIVATE CLINICS

AcuMed Asian Therapies – Traditional Medicine Clinic ul. Sempołowska 3, tel. 608 355 100. www.tuina.pl. Holistic treatment of spinal, headaches, stress, pains, allergies.

Austria-Dent-Center (B4) ul. Żelazna 54, tel. 22 654 2116,

PRIVATE CLINICS

www.austriadent.pl.

Centrum Pomocy Profesjonalnej (A1) Al. Jana Pawła II 80, floor 21, room 129, Babka Tower, tel. 22 637 4080; ul. Puławska 257 (floor 1, suite 71), Melody Park, tel. 22 241 2444, www.cpp.eu.

Margaret Rybak, Psy.D. ul. Lipska 27/24. US-trained doctoral level psychologist. APA member. Specialises in individual psychotherapy for adults and children. For more information: www.mrybak.waw.pl, mob. 606 518 151.

ARUMED Arumed Oriental Medical Center, ul. Noakowskiego 8, tel. 22 825 93 96.

The OMC doctors offer acupuncture, acupressure, herbal medicines, and medical massage for complete health.

Aster Med ul. Św. Bonifacego 92, tel. 22 858 0354, www.astermed.pl. Aster Med, while billing itself as a center of orthodontics and implantology, is really the full service with 14 dentists and 4 orthodontists and implant surgeons.

Ren Clinic Al. Gen. Władysława Sikorskiego 9A lok. 12A, tel. 22 414 2222, www.renclinic.pl. Surgical care, cosmetics, medical dermatology, aesthetic medicine and more.

Centrum Damiana ul. Wałbrzyska 46, ul. Foksal 3/5, al. K.E.N 103, tel. 22 566 2222, www.damian.com.pl.

Well Now Dental Clinic (Wilanów) ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 2A, tel. 22 403 8800, www.wellnow.pl. Open Mon-Fri 8:30-20:30, Sat 9:30-14:30.

Enel-Med Medical Centre Atrium Plaza, Al. Jana Pawła II 29; Arkadia (A1), Al. Jana Pawła II 82; Blue City, Al. Jerozolimskie 179; www.enel.pl For an appointment: tel. 22 311 7777.

Le Spa is a unique place in the center of Warsaw that’s operated since 1997, during which time we’ve built a reputation for caring about the beauty of our clients. We aim to provide maximum satisfaction to people who wish to regenerate and refresh their skin quickly, as well as those who have more time to take care about their appearance.

We use the best cosmetic brands and all the treatments are individually chosen. Our salon also has masseurs and dietary experts. We also hold make-up courses.

In December we recommend exclusive packages for just zł. 485, and endermologie plus body wrapping for zł. 220.

Le Spa Mokotowska 55, 00-001 Warszawa 22 622 94 28 www.lespa.pl

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World Leader in Implantology and Dental Aesthetics

WARSAW

MALO CLINIC Warsaw is Central Europe's first clinic of the world’s leader in Implantology and Dental Aesthetics, offering full dental care, and above all advanced dental implant surgery.

Applying the MALO CLINIC medical protocols with the same quality and consistency pat terns defined to every clinic in the world, MALO CLINIC Warsaw offers comprehensive treatments.

Services Available MALO CLINIC Warsaw provides the best specialists and the latest diagnostic equipment (including computer tomogra­ phy), in the field of: •Dental Surgery •Implantology •Aesthetic Prosthetics •Conservative Dentistry •Endodontics •Orthodontics

Come meet us and book your appointment +48 (0) 516 039 713 warsaw@maloclinics.com

MALO CLINIC HEALTH & WELLNESS Established in 1995 by Paulo Malo, is a world’s leader in Implantology and Dental Aesthetics, based on a number of treated patients, complexity of care delivered as well as the magnitude and international spread of its existing clinics. Along the years, Paulo Malo, together with his clinical team, developed several innovative techniques, protocols and products, namely the concept known as the All-on-4™– which allows the placement of fixed teeth in a single day, without the need of bone grafting. These techniques were distinguished with several awards.

MALO CLINIC Warsaw

Temporary Location ulica Pod Strzechą 7 lok. 12.

+48 (0) 516 039 713 warsaw@maloclinics.com

www.maloclinics.com/polska www.maloclinics.com

LIFESTYLE Eurodental ul. Nowowiejska 37, tel. 22 857 0088, www.eurodental.pl.

Lim Medical Center Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (C5), ul. Domaniewska 41, ul. 17-ego Stycznia 49, Al. Jana Pawła II 78, tel. 22 458 7000, www.cmlim.pl.

Lux Med Medical Clinics ul. Racławicka 132b, ul. Chmielna 85/87; ul. Puławska 15; ul. Kopernika 30 (E4); ul. Szernera 3; Al. Jerozolimskie 162; 24hr hotline: 801 800 808, for mobile users: tel. 22 332 2888, www.luxmed.pl.

ul. Wilcza 31, tel. 22 834 5804. ul. Puławska 39

POLISH FOR FOREIGNERS Academia Polonica (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 55 loc.15, tel. 22 629 9311, www.academia-polonica.com.pl. Offering a choice of special programs such as: Polish in Business, General Polish Language, Polish for Academics and Polish for Professionals.

Akademia PFF (H4) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 67/11, Malo Clinic (C4) tel. 792 887 350, World Leader in Implantology and Rondo ONZ 1, www.pff-warsaw.com, email: academy@ Dental Aesthetics tel. 22 335 7755, pff-warsaw.com. Akademia PFF offers a wide MALO CLINIC Warsaw is Central Europe's first clinicThis world class www.maloclinics.com/polska. range of Polish courses for foreigners - indiof the world’s leader in Implantology and Dental Aesthetics, offering full dental care, and above all dental incorporates five dental offices, viduals and groups. Professional and friendly advancedclinic dental implant surgery.

Located in a modern office complex Rondo 1 at anRondo operating room, two recovery rooms and a tutors with effective teaching styles.

ONZ, in the city center of Warsaw, the Clinic can be easily accessed as it is located in only 10 minutes from Central Railway Station, 30 minutes from state-of-the-art diagnostic center. the F. Chopin International Airport, near bus, tram stops and subway station (Świętokrzyska Station).

Edu & More Entry into a secured car park in the Rondo 1 building – off Pańska street.

Medicover Center ul. Marszałkowska 87 lok. 81, tel. 22 622 Services Available Atrium, Al. Jana Pawła 27, ul.

1441, www.eduandmore.com. Business & MALO CLINIC Warsaw provides the bestII specialists andInflancka 5, the latest diagnostic equipment (including computer the field of: ul.tomography), Bitwy inWarszawskiej 1920 r. 18, everyday Polish. Full-time courses and innovaConservative Dentistry Surgery ul.Dental Domaniewska 37, ul. Puławska 278, tive courses of Polish online. Experience, Endodontics Implantology Prosthetics Orthodontics ul.Aesthetic Poligonowa 3. Hotline: 19 677 or 500 900 500, good location & price friendly. Students of Medicover Hospital on Al. Rzeczypospolitej 5 full-time courses get online course for free. in Wilanów tel. 500 900 900, Klub Dialogu www.medicover.com. ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13/156, tel. 664 788 994, www.klubdialogu.pl. Individual and group courses held either on-site or at the venue of your choice. Tailor-made packages inc. both intensive and weekend courses.

Wilanow Family Practice ul. Kosiarzy 37/90, tel. 22 642 7404 / Lingua Polonica 602 268 826, www.wilanowfamilypractice.

Lingua Polonica offers general Polish pl. Open Mon-Weds & Fri 12:30-19:00; Sat language classes, Polish for business and 9:00-12:00. Well-known in ex-pat circles, Polish for diplomacy. Individual learning and highly recommended by all, book a visit programs are tailored to the needs of to English-speaking Dr. Andrzej Gajer for individual clients. Private and small-group consultations, medical evaluations and minor classes available on a variety of levels for surgical procedures. Appointments outside competitive prices. Professional, friendly of the above-mentioned times are available and dedicated instructors. They even offer on request. a free trial lesson for beginners.

Info: www.linguapolonica.com.pl. Email: Vertebralia linguapolonica@linguapolonica.com.pl. ul. Postępu 6, tel. 22 449 2828, Modern.edu School of Language www.vertebralia.pl. A clinic specializing in Al. Jerozolimskie 11/19 lok.21, tel. 22 881 85 the integrated treatment of all kinds of spinal 14, biuro@ modern.edu.pl, www.modern. illness. With 20 years of experience, they edu.pl. A wide range of Polish classes and perform innovative treatments with state-ofcustomized courses at attractive prices - either the-art equipment. in small groups or private classes.

WARSAW

MALO CLINIC Office complex Rondo 1 (+48) 22 335 77 55 Warsaw 1st floor in Building A warsaw@maloclinics.com Rondo ONZ 1 www.maloclinics.com/polska | www.maloclinics.com

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24-HOUR PHARMACIES

Al. Jana Pawła II 52/54 Al. Solidarności 149, tel. 22 620 0818.

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Schola Polonica ul. Jaracza 3, tel. 22 625 2652, www.schola.

WARSAW INSIDER | DECEMBER 2012

pl. Master Polish in a friendly atmosphere.

All levels catered for, with groups never going beyond a maximum of five people.

COMMUNITY Expatriates PFF (H4) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 67/11. tel. + 48 792 887 350 www.pff-warsaw.com e-mail: legal@pff-warsaw.comOffers services for foreigners coming to Poland, including obtaining residence and work permits, visas, setting up business activities as well as legal services and support for foreign investors and business entities. For more information call or write: +48 22 828 15 01; + 48 792 887 350, legal@pff-warsaw.co International Christian Fellowship & International Community Center Interdenominational services in English (10:30am, Sunday). Facilities, programs and community activities for all ages: children, students and adults. Contact tel. 607 309 490, roy.taylor@icfwarsaw. org, www.icfwarsaw.org The Kurt Scheller Academy (D6) Offers top-standard cooking lessons.

For more information: ul. Piękna 68, tel. 22 626 8092, akademia@schelleracademy.com.pl.

The New Warsaw Curry Club The New Warsaw Curry Club describe themselves as ‘a non-profit organization whose sole mission is to celebrate the pungent world of Warsaw curry’. Join them once a month for beers, curry and ex-pat gossip – for further details search out Facebook.

Professionals in Warsaw Hosts meetings in the city to link up professionals, those new to Warsaw, or those here for the long haul. For more info contact Andy (mob. 691 535 566) or the group page on Facebook.

Taste of the Classics A Taste of the Classics is a classical music, fine art and dinner entertainment, held regularly in prime locations. The events alternate between formal and semi-formal dress and are held in English. Attendance is by invitation and includes dinner and wine.

For further info: please contact Richard Berkeley: berkeley@fnok.pl or tel. 502 965 353.

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STREET INDEX 1 Sierpnia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . A11 3 Maja al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 29 Listopada . . . . . . . . . . . . G7 Adampolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . H3 Agrykola . . . . . . . . . . . . E6, F6-7 Akacjowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Angorska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Anielewicza . . . . . . . . . . .A2-B1 Armii Ludowej al. . . . .C-D7, E-F6 Asfaltowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Asnyka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6, B6 Baboszewska . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Bacciarellego . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Bachmacka . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Baczyńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Badowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Bagatela . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Bagno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 Bajońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Baleya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A10 Balladyny . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Balonowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Bałuckiego . . . . . . . . . . . .E9-10 Banacha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A8 Bandoski . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10 Barokowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Barska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Bartoszewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Bartoszka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G-H10 Bartycka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H7 Batorego . . . . . . . . . . . .C8, D7-8 Batumi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Bednarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E2 Beethovena . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Belgijska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Belwederska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Bełska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Berezyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Biała . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B3 Białoskórnicza . . . . . . . . . .D-E2 Białostocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Biały Kamień . . . . . . . . . . . . .B8 Bielawska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Blaszana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Bliska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1-2 Bluszczańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H8 bł.Władysława . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Bobrowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Boczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Boleść . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Bonifraterska . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Boryszewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Boya-Żeleńskiego . . . . . . . . .E7 Braci Pilatich . . . . . . . . . . .E9-10 Bracka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Browarna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Bruna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8 Bryły . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D12 Brzeska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Brzozowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Bugaj . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Bukietowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D11 Bukowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Bukszpanowa . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Buraczana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Burgaska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Bytnara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Canaletta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Chałubińskiego . . . . . . . . . . .C5 Chełmska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Chłodna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B3 Chmielna . . . . . . . . . . .B-C5, D4 Chocimska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Chodkiewicza . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Chopina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Ciasna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Ciepła . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4 Cisowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Corazziego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Cybulskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Czackiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Czarnomorska . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Czeczota . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D10 Czerniakowska . . . . . . . . .G6, F5 Czerska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Czerwijowskiego . . . . . . . . . .E6 Czeska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Czubatki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C7 Daleka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Daniłowiczowska . . . . . . . . . .C2 Dantyszka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Dąbrowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Dąbrowskiego . . . . . . . . . .C9-10 Dąbrówki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Defilad pl. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 Długa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Dmochowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Dobra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Dolańskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1

Dolna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Domaniewska . . . . . . . . . . .D12 Dożynkowa . . . . . . . . . .D9, E10 Dragonów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G7 Drużynowa . . . . . . . . . . . .D9-10 Dubois . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B1 Dworkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Dynasy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Dzielna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B2 Dzika . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1 Elektoralna . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C3 Emilii Plater . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4-5 Esperanto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A2 Estońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Etiudy Rewolucyjnej . . . .B10-11 Fabryczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Falęcka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Fałata . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Filona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D12 Filtrowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Finlandzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G3 Fińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C7 Floriańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Flory . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Foksal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Franciszkańska . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Francuska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Frascati . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Fredry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Freta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Frycza-Modrzewskiego . . . . .H1 Furmańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Gagarina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G8 Gallijska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Gałczyńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Gamerskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Gandhiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D10 Garażowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Gen. Andersa . . . . . . . .B1, C1-2 Genewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Gierymskiego . . . . . . . . . .F9-10 Gimnastyczna . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Giżyckiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Glogera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Głogowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Głucha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H2 Gołkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H11 Gomulickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Goszczyńskiego . . . . . . . . . .D10 Goworka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Górskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Górnickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Górnośląska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Górska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Graniczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Grażyny . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Grodzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Grottgera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Grójecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Gruzińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Grzesiuka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H10 Grzybowska . . . . . . . . . A-B4, C3 Hańczy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Hipoteczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Hoene-Wrońskiego . . . . . . .F5-6 Hoffmanowej . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Hołówki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Hoża . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D5 Hrubieszowska . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Huculska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Humańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Idzikowskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Iłżecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A11-12 Imielińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Inspektowa . . . . . . . . . .F12, G11 Irlandzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3-4 Iwicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8-9 Jagiellońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Jaktorowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Jakubowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G3 Jałtańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Jana Pawła II al. . . . . . .A1, B2-4 Jana Sobieskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10, G10-11, H12 Jankowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A10 Jaracza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F3 Jasielska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A9 Jasińskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Jasna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Jaszowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H11 Jaworowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10 Jazdów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Jazgarzewska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Jedwabnicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Jerozolimskie al. . . . .B-C5, D-F4 Jezierskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F6 Jezuicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Joliot Curie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D11 Joselewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1

Joteyki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Kacza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Kalatówki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Kaliska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Kamionkowska . . . . . . . . . . .H2 Kapucyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Karłowicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Karmelicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B2 Karolkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Karowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2-3 Karwińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Katowicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Kaukaska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Kawalerii . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G6 Kazimierzowska . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Kępna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Kielecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Kierbedzia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Kijowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Kilińskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Klonowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Kłopotowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Kolberga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D11 Komedy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8 Konduktorska . . . . . . .E9, F9-10 Konopnickiej . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Konstancińska . . . . . . . . .H11-12 Konstruktorska . . . . . . . . .B-C12 Konwiktorska . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Kopernika . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Korczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H11 Korzeniowskiego . . . . . . . . . .A7 Kostrzewskiego . . . . . . . . . .E10 Koszykowa . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-D6 Kościelna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Kotlarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Kozia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Kozłowskiej . . . . . . . . . . .G-H10 Koźla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Koźmińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Krakowskie Przedmieście . . . . . . . .D2-3 Krasickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Krasnołęcka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Kraushara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Kredytowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Kręta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Krochmalna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B3 Kromera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Krowia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Królewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D3 Królowej Aldony . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Króżańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Krucza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4-5 Kruczkowskiego . . . . . . . . .E3-4 Krymska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Kryniczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Krzywickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Krzywopoboczna . . . . . . . . . .D2 Ks. Poniatowskiego al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4, G3 Ksawerów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Książęca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Księcia Trojdena . . . . . . . . . . .A8 Kubańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Kubusia Puchatka . . . . . . . . .D4 Kwiatowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Langego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C12 Lądowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F8 Lekarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Lenartowicza . . . . . . . . . . .D-E11 Lennona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Leszno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Leszowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C7 Lewartowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .B1 Lewicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Ligocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9 Limanowskiego . . . . . . . . . .H11 Lindleya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Lipska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Lipskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Lisieckiego “Dziadka” al. . . .E1 Litewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Lorenza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Lubelska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G-H1 Lubkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8-9 Ludna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Ludowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Lwowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 Łazienkowska . . . . . . . . . . .F-G6 Łęczycka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Łomnicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8-9 Łotewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G4 Łowicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Łucka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4 Łużycka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Łyżwiarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Mackiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Madalińskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Magazynowa . . . . . . . . . . . .C12 Maklakiewicza . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Malawskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Malczewskiego . . . . . . . . . .D10 Mangalia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G11 Maratońska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Marcinkowskiego . . . . .F1-2, G1 Markowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Marszałkowska . . . .C3-4, D4-5 Marzanny . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Maszyńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Matejki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Mazowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3

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Meksykańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Melsztyńska . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E8 Melomanów . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H8 Merliniego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Miączyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Miechowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Miecznikowa . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Miedziana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Miła . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1-2, B1 Miłobędzka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Miodowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D2 Młocińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1 Młynarskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Mochnackiego . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Modzelewskiego . . . . . . . . .D11 Mokotowska . . . . . . . . .D6, E5-6 Moliera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Mołdawska . . . . . . . . . . . .A9-10 Moniuszki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Morskie Oko . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Mostowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D1 Myśliwiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5-6 Na Skarpie . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4-5 Nabielaka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F8-9 Nalewki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B1 Narbutta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Naruszewicza . . . . . . . . . .D-E11 Natolińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E6 Nehru . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Neseberska . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Niecała . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Niekłańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3-4 Niemcewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Niepodległości al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6-8, D9-12, E12 Niska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B1 Noakowskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 Nobla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Nowiniarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Nowińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1 Nowotarska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G9 Nowogrodzka . . . . . . . . . . .B-D5 Nowolipie . . . . . . . . . . .A3, B2-3 Nowolipki . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B2 Nowomiejska . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Nowosielecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Nowowiejska . . . . . . . . . .C6, D6 Nowy Przejazd . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Nowy Świat . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E4 Nullo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Nurska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Oboźna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E3 Obrońców . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Obserwatorów . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Oczki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C5 Odolańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E9 Odyńca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-E10 Ogrodowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B3 Okolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Okopowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1-2 Okólnik . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Okrąg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4-5 Okrzei . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Oleandrów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D7 Olesińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Olimpijska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Olkuska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Olszowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Ondraszka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7 Opoczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . .C8-9 Ordynacka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E4 Orężna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Orla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3-4 Orłowicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4-5 Orzechowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Ossolińskich . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Oszczepników . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Padewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Panieńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Pankiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C5 Pańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 Parkingowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Parkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F8 Paryska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Pasteura . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Paszyna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A2 Pawia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B2 Pereca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4 Piaseczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F11 Piekałkiewicza . . . . . . . . .G-H10 Piesza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Piękna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6, E5-6 Pilicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D10-11 Piłkarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D9-10 Piwarskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F10 Piwna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1-2 pl. Bankowy . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 pl. Defilad . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C4 pl. Grzybowski . . . . . . . . . .C3-4 pl. Konstytucji . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 pl. Na Rozdrożu . . . . . . . . . . .E6 pl. Narutowicza . . . . . . . . . . .A6 pl. Piłsudskiego . . . . . . . . . . .D3 pl. Teatralny . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 pl. Trzech Krzyży . . . . . . . . . . .E5 pl. Unii Lubelskiej . . . . . . . . .E7 pl. Zawiszy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 pl. Zbawiciela . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 pl. Żelaznej Bramy . . . . . . . . .C3 Platynowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Płatowcowa . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Pługa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7

Płyćwiańska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Pod Kopcem . . . . . . . . . . . .H7-8 Pod Skocznią . . . . . . . . . . . .F12 Podchorążych . . . . . . . . . . .F-G8 Podwale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1-2 Pogorzelskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Polkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Polna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6-7, E7 Pory . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G11-12 Poselska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Postępu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B12 Potockiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Powsińska . . . . . . . . . . . .H10-11 Poznańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Praski Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Promenada . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Prosta . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4-5, B4 Próżna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Prusa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Pruszkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .A9 Przechodnia . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Przemysłowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F6 Przyokopowa . . . . . . . . . . . .A4-5 Przystaniowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Ptasia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C3 Puławska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8-12 Pułku Baszta . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Pytlasińskiego . . . . . . . . . . .E-F9 Racjonalizacji . . . . . . . . . .B11-12 Racławicka . . . . . . . .A-B10, D10 Radomska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Rakowiecka . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D8 Raperswilska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Raszyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Ratuszowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E1 Reja . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7 Rejtana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Rektorska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6 Rokitnicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7-8 rondo Daszyńskiego . . . . .A4-5 rondo De Gaulle’a . . . . . . . . .E4 rondo Dmowskiego . . . . . .D4-5 rondo Jazdy Polskiej . . . . . . .D7 rondo ONZ . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C4 rondo Radosława . . . . . . . . . .A1 rondo Waszyngtona . . . . . . .H3 Rostafińskich . . . . . . . . . . . . .B8 Rozbrat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5-6 Róż al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Różana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E9 Różyckiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Rudawska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Rychlińskiego . . . . . . . . . . .C-D7 Rynek Starego Miasta . . . . . .D1 Rysia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Samochodowa . . . . . . . .C11-12 Sandomierska . . . . . . . . . .D-E8 Sanocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A9 Sapieżyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Saska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3-4 Schillera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Sempołowskiej . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Senatorska . . . . . . . . . . . . .C-D2 Sewerynów . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Sędziowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Sękocińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Sielecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8-9 Sienkiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Sienna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4-5, C4 Sikorskiego al. . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Sikorskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Skaryszewska . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1 Skaryszewski Park . . . . . . . . .H3 Skłodowskiej-Curie . . . . . . . .A7 Skorupki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Słoneczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Słupecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Służewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Smocza . . . . . . . . . . . . .A1-2, B2 Smolna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Smulikowskiego . . . . . . . . . . .F3 Sobieszyńska . . . . . . . . . .F9-10 Soczi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Sokola . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F3-G3 Solariego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Solec . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Solidarności al. . . .A3, B2-3, C2 Sozopolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Spacerowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Spartańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Spiska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B6 Sprzeczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G1-2 Srebrna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B5 Stanka al. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Stara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Starościńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8 Stawki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B1 Stępińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F8-9 Stopowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Styki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Suligowskiego . . . . . . . . . .G7-8 Sulkiewicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-F8 Syryńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C11 Szara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Szarotki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Szczuczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Szczygla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E4 Szkolna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3-4 Szpitalna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Szucha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E7 Śliska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C4 Śniadeckich . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D6

Śniegockiej . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F5 Św. A. Boboli . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Św. Barbary . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Św. Bonifacego . . . . . . . . . .H12 Św. Franciszka . . . . . . . . . . .F3-4 Świętojańska . . . . . . . . . . . .D1-2 Świętojerska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Świętokrzyska . . . . . . .C4, D3-4 Tagore’a R. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C10 Tamka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E3 Tarczyńska . . . . . . . . . . . . .A-B6 Targowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G1 Tatrzańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Teresińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Tłomackie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Tokarzewskiego . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Towarowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4-5 Trasa Łazienkowska . . .E-F6, G5 Trasa W-Z . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C2 Traugutta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D3 Trębacka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2 Trybunalska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Turecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Turystyczna . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B10 Tuwima . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Twarda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B4-5 Tyniecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E10 Ujazdowskie al. . . . . . . . . . .E5-6 Urle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G11 Ursynowska . . . . . . . . . . . .D-E10 Walecznych . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Waliców . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B3-4 Wał Miedzyszyński . . .G4-5, H5 Wałowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C1 Wandy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Warecka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Warneńska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G12 Warszewickiego . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Waryńskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D7 Waszyngtona . . . . . . . . . . . . .H3 Wawelska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B7 Wąchocka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Wersalska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5-6 Węglarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A6 Węgrzyna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10 Widok . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Wiadukt Markiewicza . . . . . .D3 Wiejska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E5 Wielicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E12 Wierzbickiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .C6 Wierzbowa . . . . . . . . . .C2, D2-3 Wiktorska . . . . . .C10, D9-10, E9 Wilanowska . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4-5 Wilcza . . . . . . . . . . .C6, D5-6, E5 Willowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E8 Winnicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A7 Wioślarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F4 Wiśniowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D8-9 Witosa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G10-11 Włoska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9-10 Wodna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D1 Wolicka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H9 Wolnej Wszechnicy . . . . . . A7-8 Wolność . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Wolska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A4 Wołoska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C12 Woronicza . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-E11 Wronia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3-4 Wrotkowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C9 Wrzesińska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F1 Wspólna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Wybrz. Kościuszkowskie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E2-3, F3 Wybrzeże Szczecińskie . . .E-F2 Wygodna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E9 Wyzwolenia al. . . . . . . . . . . . .E6 Zagórna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G5 Zajączkowska . . . . . . . . . . .E-F8 Zakopiańska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H5 Zakrzewska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G9 Zamenhofa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B2 Zamojskiego . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G2 Zawrat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Ząbkowska . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F-G1 Zbierska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F9 Zdrojowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H12 Zgoda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D4 Zieleniecka al. . . . . . . . . . . .G2-3 Zielna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .C3 Zimorowicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B6 Złota . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .B-C4 Złotych Piasków . . . . . . . . . .G12 Zwierzyniecka . . . . . . . . . . . .G8 Zwycięzców . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H4 Żelazna . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3, B3-5 Żuławskiego . . . . . . . . . . . . .B11 Żupnicza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H1 Żurawia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D5 Żwirki i Wigury . . . . . . . . . .A8-11 Żytnia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .A3 Żywnego . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E11 Źródłowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .D2

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WARSAW INTERNATIONS Drawing professionals from home and abroad the mission of InterNations is to bring together ‘global minds’ and connect ex-pats from all walks of life. Covering 300 cities since first forming five years back, the InterNations group has become one of the most successful networking events of the ex-pat calendar.

• Monthly Mixers • Online Forums • Guides & City Info For news on the Warsaw chapter, how to join and what events are coming up, find out more about us at: www.internations.org

Tel: +48 22 702 10 72

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Over 750 students enrolled Over 50 different nationalities Outstanding IB and I/GCSE results Superb facilities in the heart of Warsaw High quality teaching provided by committed British, International and local staff A complete education from 2,5-18 years Following the English National Curriculum Wide range of extracurricular activities

l. Limanowskiego 15 u 02-943 Warszawa T: +48 22 843 81 31 F: +48 22 842 81 65 E: admissions@thebritishschool.pl W: www.thebritishschool.pl

facebook.com/warsawinsider

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Stadion Narodowy

Żaryna Żaryna

Kulskiego Kulskiego

ChoCdhkod łyiaKłyam kieicwzaic BiaB iew Kaiem za ńień

WHY WARSAW?

fascinated by the old architecture: you just don’t have that in the States. In New York you’re lucky to find something that’s even a 100 years old. But my main memory is running – we went for a run on Nowy Świat and Łazienki and people were looking at us like we were aliens. I realized then that no one was running in this city.

From New York to Warsaw – that’s a heck of a difference…

Well, there are similarities between Polish people who are not from Warsaw, and people who live in New York but weren’t born there. Getting to Warsaw is like joining the elite of Poland. If you’re from a small village and end up here a lot of people end up acting the same as if they came to New York from a different state.

You’re involved in the Warsaw International Triathlon Club, how did that come about?

At first I just wanted people to go running with but when I started a Facebook page people were contacting me and asking me, “can I do it, I’ve never run before?” I realized that something more was needed and found myself becoming someone who could convince people that they could do it. From there I decided to create a community to enable people to do multi-sport activities. Now we have 300 people in our facebook group and 75 active members.

Brooklyn-born Ken Globerman takes a seat to trade tips about triathlon with the Insider. BY DAVID INGHAM What brings a Brooklyn native to Warsaw?

Well, I first visited Poland about 10 years ago.

All of my grandparents are from Eastern Europe, from Hungary, Turkey, Ukraine and Belarus, so I wanted to explore the region. Then a few years ago I hit a point where I wanted to try something different with my company Global Group Ventures and apply my equity, finance and consulting skills somewhere else.

Your first impressions?

My friend still says that was his favorite ever trip… apart from the beautiful women, we were

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Where are the best places for a run or a bike ride?

One of the reasons I moved to Powiśle is because I thought it would be a great place to run. Although it’s pretty flat you have Agrykola and Belwederska close by for hills.

With cycling, for off-road riding I enjoy Kabaty Forest and Bielański. On road I think the best direction is Wilanów and Konstancin.

If you had to pick a favorite part of town what would it be?

Definitely Francuska in Saska. It reminds me of Brooklyn in terms of having a different feel from the rest of the city; it’s the same when you cross the river to get to Brooklyn from New York. And my favorite restaurant on Francuska is Rucola: the pizza, salads and pastas are all great.

For those interested in getting involved in Warsaw International Triathlon Club check out the website www.warsawtriclub.com

PHOTOGRAPH BY ANNA KAMINSKA

THE RUNNING MAN

It sounds strictly hardcore, or can anyone get involved?

It’s the latter actually. I gave a toast at a party we had after some of us had done the Susz Triathlon, and I said I may not be the fastest runner, the best cyclist or the greatest swimmer, but the one thing I know I’m damn good at is getting people to try new things. Anybody can join us.

Of course, you need to be able to physically run, ride a bike and at least tread water, but all we are trying to do is improve people.