Warsaw Insider November 2023 #327

NOVEMBER 2023

The Capital’s Original City Magazine Since 1996

EUROPEAN BEST DESTINATION 2023

What is the best Polish restaurant in town?

SEE PAGE 12 TO FIND OUT

warsawinsider.pl

#327 INDEKS 334901 ISSN:1643-1723

BEST of WA R S AW

NOVEMBER 2023

2023 PLN 10 (VAT 8% INCLUDED)

SCAN TO READ ONLINE

Editor's Letter November 2023

AS HAS NOW BECOME CUSTOMARY, November sees normal service suspended as we instead use the lion’s share of our page count to bring you our annual Best of Warsaw rundown.

Born in the 90s when dining in the city was an at times lethal experience (literally!), today’s capital has morphed, astonishingly almost, into a food and drink haven. This issue reflects that, as proved by the number of cracking venues that failed to make the cut.

Increasingly recognised abroad for the dynamic nature of its F&B scene, the city has rebounded strongly following the double whammy of Covid and war next door – resilience aside, the last few years have demonstrated the visionary creativity of those at the forefront of this remarkable sector. Bleak as the November skies may be, by taking solace in the venues honoured in the pages ahead, visitors and residents stand to discover the vibrant spirit that now defines modern day Warsaw. Enjoy!

COVER PHOTO KEVIN DEMARIA, PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE BY ED WIGHT

Alex Webber

insider@warsawinsider.pl

Editor-in-chief Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com

Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com

Art Director Kevin Demaria kdemaria@valkea.com

Media Assistant Maria Sinkiewicz msinkiewicz@valkea.com

Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com

Subscription

12 editions of the Insider PLN 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland.

Orders can be placed through: insider@warsawinsider.pl

VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Ficowskiego 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl All information ©2023 Warsaw Insider

warsawinsider.pl

1

2

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2023

Intel

Monument

SHUTTERSTOCK

Marie’s Curiosities To coincide with what would have been her 156th birthday on November 7th, we take a look at the Warsaw of one of the greatest scientists to ever live: Maria Skłodowska-Curie (a.k.a Marie Curie)…

Kościelna Unveiled in 2014, this life-sized monument was a gift from the French. It stands next to the church in which the two-time Nobel Prize winner was baptised and overlooks the Wisła. “It’s so enchanting I can’t begin to describe it,” Curie once said of the river. warsawinsider.pl

3

Insider Intel

Murals

Nowolipki 11 & Wawelska 15 The iconic mural on Lipowa that once showed a tattooed Curie has long gone, but two related to the scientist still exist: the first, in Muranów, stands on the site of her childhood home (destroyed in the war) and depicts atoms and a wise owl.

Less visual, the second bears her name on the former Radium Institute.

The Curie Tree

Wawelska 15 Open for viewing on prior arrangement (contact the Oncology Centre), it’s said that Curie planted this 19-metre sycamore on May 29th, 1932, seven years exactly after the Radium Institute was opened in her honour.

Bristol Hotel

Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44 After winning the Nobel Prize Curie was invited to a celebratory banquet held in 1913 in the hotel’s Malinowa room. Asked why she had been furtively taking notes throughout the star-studded proceedings, Curie revealed that she was solving a maths puzzle.

Marie Skłodowska-Curie Museum

Freta 16 Benefiting from a significant re-haul in recent years, this museum’s collection includes lab equipment, Curie’s trademark black dress and even her nail file.

4

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2023

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS PAGE CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: SHUTTERSTOCK, KEVIN DEMARIA (2)

Wawelska 15

Clockwise from below: school in the myhive Mokotów Two office building, the National Library and Browary Warszawskie.

Warsaw Trio Go For Gold Nine Polish projects have been longlisted for the Mies van der Rohe prize – three of them from Warsaw…

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS PAGE TOP LEFT: JAKUB CERTOWICZ

S

elected on a longlist of 362 projects, the Warsaw trio will now face further scrutiny ahead of the final shortlist being announced in February.

Viewed as one of the most prestigious architectural prizes in the world, the winners of the Mies van der Rohe award will then be annouced in April.

Representing the Polish capital is a school built for young Ukrainian refugees, a library and the stunning Browary Warszawskie mixed-use development. Of these three, it is the latter that most will know.

Opened in 2021 on the site of the 19th century Haberbusch & Schiele brewery, the investment has already won a slew of accolades, including being named at last year’s MAPIC awards as

the “best urban regeneration project” in the world.

Once the largest brewery in the Tsarist-ruled Kingdom of Poland, in later years it was here that the country’s first bottles of Coca-Cola were produced under American license. Later falling into dereliction, the rundown plot was spectacularly resuscitated a few years back.

Offering a stunning mix of restored historical architecture alongside new elements such as the capital’s first woonerf and lush urban plazas, today it contains a prize-winning food hall, a flagship brewpub and a sports bar owned by Robert Lewandowski. A thriving, affluent micro-district, it’s given Warsaw’s new CBD an entirely different dimension.

Less high-profile, a school in

the myhive Mokotów Two office building has also been recognised on the longlist. Crated pro bono by 52 companies and 200 volunteers, it occupies 1,200 sq/m of previously unused space. Designed by the xystudio to tout cheerful, therapeutic colour schemes, it’s currently used by 300 Ukrainian children who fled West following the Russian invasion.

Finally, the National Library has also been given the nod following a full modernisation that saw this modernist icon given an industrialised look through the use of materials such as copper, steel, wood and stone.

Included in the redesign were four internal gardens, each of which has now been individually adapted to change with the seasons. warsawinsider.pl

5

Insider Intel

Caught In The Act A Warsaw thief made international news after posing as a mannequin in a shop window before embarking on a thieving spree after the store had locked for the night. CCTV showed the 23-year-old man standing rigid in a display window with a handbag before letting himself out after staff had left.

Robbing a jewellery island, he was later apprehended after security staff noticed him roaming the shopping centre. According to police, the man had previously stolen cash, clothes and even food using a similar ruse. He now faces ten-years in prison.

Unveiled to coincide with what would have been her 87th birthday, a mural dedicated to Agnieszka Osiecka made its debut on Francuska 33, last month. The author of 2,000 songs and an equally prolific playwright and poet, Osiecka’s life was heavily intertwined with her belove district of Saska Kępa – already the district boasts a plaque marking her former home and a statue outside what used to be her favourite café on Francuska. Painted in discreet shades so as to fit with the spirit of the area, the latest tribute to her depicts the cultural icon surrounded by lilacs – a reference to her poem Małgośka which was later immortalised by the singer Maryla Rodowicz.

6

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2023

PHOTOGRAPHS TOP SHUTTERSTOCK, BOTTOM ALEX WEBBER

Local Hero Celebrated

Insider Intel

Warsaw's Divisive Palace Restoration Controversial Warsaw Palaces Reconstruction Sparks National Divide Over PLN 1.5 Billion Project

T

one of the pearls of Warsaw, the Bruhl was flattened by the Germans in 1944. Saski Palace faced a similar fate with only the Tomb of the Uknown Soldier surviving. The project to rebuild both has divided the nation

with many seeing it as a costly political vanity project. Others, though, see it as “the final act in the reconstruction of Warsaw”.

Taken as a whole, estimates suggests the project could cost PLN 1.5 billion.

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF WXCA

he Warsaw-based architectural studio WXCA have won the contract to design the Saski and Bruhl Palaces ahead of their controversial reconstruction. Once considered

8

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2023

f o t s Besaw r a W warsawinsider.pl

11

Best of Warsaw 2023

POLISH Editor’s Pick 2023

Źródło Targowa 81

12

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2023

An unorthodox choice? Perhaps. Just within eyeshot of the onion domes of Praga’s Russian Church, Źródło finds itself housed on the ground floor of a gloomy Commie block. As surroundings go, it’s hardly auspicious. In some ways, however, that’s why we love it – it doesn’t conform, it doesn’t fit the mould.

In tune with the retro, blast-to-the-past address, the interior is a jumble of exposed pipes, flurries of greenery, hardwood floors, recycled furnishings and colourful Boho bits and bobs. It’s full of personality.

Menu-wise, the food lights the soul. But more than just celebrating the power of local produce, there’s a refinement at play that speaks of a kitchen team that aims for magnificence. In October, that meant pumpkin with goat milk feta and ‘golden raisins’, and a star turn from a beef rib with pickled plums and a pair of steamed buns. Making it even better, drinks include interesting craft beers (try the ‘apple pie’ brewed by Nepomucen), regional ciders, and an array of bio wines.

A passionate and unusual representation of Poland, Źródło is a place of heart – in these challenging times, its integrity and character is a pleasure to behold.

Polana Smaków The look blurs the line Emilii Plater 14

between tradition country cottage and modern, slick abode, and the same can be said of Andrzej Polan’s reimagining of traditional cuisine – no-one does greater things to herring. In this time of soaring costs, the price tags remain modest by Warsaw standards.

Pod Gigantami Once seen as a classic

Bez Gwiazdek Regarded as one of WarWiślana 8

Zielony Niedźwiedź Smolna 4

saw’s gastronomic treasures, each month sees Robert Trzópek design a tasting menu inspired by a specific region of Poland. His creative interpretations of the nation’s culinary traditions are delicate, nuanced and beautifully balanced. The chic but casual setting reflects the philosophy.

restaurant for ‘old people’, Aleje Ujazdowskie Pod Gigantami’s reinvention 24 stretches to 3 a.m. finishes come the weekend. Marrying heritage with hip, during more normal hours enjoy thoughtfully cooked Polish classics including an old school schabowy the size of a small planet.

Różana Chocimska 7

An oldie but a goldie! With the house pianist tinkling in the background, just being here feels special. For formal, almost ceremonial occasions, Różana evokes the noble spirit of Old Poland with its upmarket menu and sense of tradition.

Surrounded by darting squirrels and tumbling foliage, the park location feels spiritually aligned with the Green Bear’s devotion to celebrating nature. Paying homage to seasonality and tradition, the flavours are big and the tastes are true inside this sanctuary of elegant fancy.

warsawinsider.pl

13

Best of Warsaw 2023

SHOWTIME Chaton Foksal 19 Warsaw enjoys the finer things in life, it just doesn’t always get them right. Too often the term ‘luxury’ is liberally applied only for a venue to transpire to be little more than gaudy and expensive. Chaton, on the other hand, does not suffer from this. Located inside an elegant Neo-Gothic tenement that sits on Foksal, everything about it whispers of refinement.

This sense of class extends to their emerald green restaurant, but the chief talking point lies beyond: featuring a humidor and celeb-filled VIP room, this operation has also carved a name for its spectacular dinner shows that combine fancy meals with a memorable artistic program performed by international singers, dancers, acrobats and drag queens. For a top dollar night that offers something extraordinary, Chaton is your answer.

Tonka Karmelicka 16 Tonka occupies a ground floor space inside a squat residential block that brings to mind memories of Poland’s commie past – but you forget that passing through the door. Staring onto the glass cube that is the POLIN museum, crystal white minimalism rules in this space with the monotone palette given a punch of life through the subtle zaps of greenery.

Though the communal table is ideal for girl gang Prosecco moments, the main calling here are the pastries. Using fresh seasonal fruits as their main point of inspiration, the undisputed crowd favourite is the raspberry roulade, a light and creamy bite that’s heaven on the tongue. Other stars we’ve enjoyed include fig tartlets with caramel cream, pear melbas, and velvety chocolate slices crowned with plump, juicy blackberries.

14

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2023

PHOTOGRAPHS BOTTOM ROW BY KEVIN DEMARIA, TOP ROW COURTESY OF CHATON

DESSERT SHOP

warsawinsider.pl

15

Best of Warsaw 2023

CAFES

Editor’s Pick

Hałas Vinyl + Coffee Elsterska 10

16

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2023

Half-submerged below street level, this little café is home to a lovingly curated smattering of vinyl albums displayed in the first room – Sonic Youth, John Coltrane, Gorillaz, Bjork, Nirvana, etc. Once you’ve made your purchase, retreat to the retro-fitted lounge-like space in the back to sip what’s known as some of the best specialty coffee in Warsaw or, even, their own craft soft drinks produced under the Fonto Fizz label. In other hands, Hałas could risk being too cool for its own good – here, however, everyone is made to feel like a part of something special.

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS PAGE BY KEVIN DEMARIA

2023

STOR Tamka 33 / Bracka 18

Błysk Słowackiego 22

Typika Kolejowa 47

Served over a PRL era counter, Błysk’s super-tight confines generate a natural air of familiarity. Often standing room only, the buzz and hubbub owes itself not just to the delicious espresso shots, but also the homemade cookies and dog-loving owners that will spoil your pet.

Looking sexy with its Japandi style (think: Japan meet Scandia), Typika’s floor-to-ceiling windows leave this stark, split-level space wallowing in light no matter the season.

A haven for digital nomads and freelancers, the young dynamic is topped by fab coffee.

Relax Na Wilczej Wilcza 17

El Cafatero Marszałkowska 27/35

Several legends have been left off this rundown, but Stor are just impossible to overlook. Their glorious coffee and detail-driven approach is equalled by their devotion to local causes and community actions. The original on Tamka is a flag bearer of Warsaw café culture.

Maximising all available space and light with a cleanlined interior that’s embellished by a scattering of coffee tomes and a statement mural by Mariusz Tarkawian, Relax belies its central location to feel personal and welcoming – visiting, it feels like part of the fabric of Warsaw.

Tucked behind the patinated domes and intricate steeples of Zbawiciela, chilling in this little café has you thinking you’re somewhere cute and quaint like Vilnius or Lublin.

Specialising in roasting their own African coffees, the super-hip vibe is highlighted by the wall of Polaroid snaps.

warsawinsider.pl

17

Best of Warsaw 2023

PIZZA Insider Favorite

Va Bene Tamka 9

18

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2023

Warsaw does like a culinary fad, and in this respect the 2020s have seen the city fall head over heels for Neapolitan-style pizza. But that’s partially the problem – as brilliant as many of these new generation pizzerias are, they’re fundamentally a little samey. For something completely different then, head to this tiny and atmospheric corner unit on Tamka, an informal hangout with fab Italian inspired cocktails, homemade pastas and rectangles of Roman pizza topped with whatever seasonal ingredients Emanuele has at hand.

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS PAGE BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Carbonara

FOOD TOWN

MOXO

HUB Fabryka Norblina

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS PAGE COURTESY OF FABRYKA NORBLIN

Żelazna 51/53 The most glamourous buzz of the summer, the pedestrianised artery running through the post-industrial Norblin development was one of the undisputed stars of the season (we’re still pinching ourselves after bumping into the coolest man on the planet, Kieran Culkin!). But even outside of the heatwave months, it’s impossible not to love this cosmopolitan catwalk. Treading down this illuminated passageway leads you, among other places, to the elite cocktail emporium that is MOXO, the cool but comfy Uwaga craft joint, and the sprawling Food Town with its scores of ethnic vendors.

Top Picks

Uwaga Piwo

MOXO, Uwaga, Food Town

warsawinsider.pl

19

Best of Warsaw 2023

CRAFT BEER BARS Jabeerwocky Nowogrodzka 12

Editor’s Pick 2023

Cuda Na Kiju Nowy Świat 6/12

20

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2023

Count on Jabbers to provide a well-rounded view of what Polish craft is all about.

A Warsaw institution, the adventurous choice of beers gives airtime to international pioneers, domestic trailblazers as well as their own house beers. Pre-war floors and the welcome smell of spillage give it a reassuring pub-like atmosphere and that becomes a boisterous babble of international voices the later it gets. In our eyes, this veteran bar just keeps getting better.

Warsaw’s first legitimate tap bar looks just as edgy as ever slotted inside a glass prism hidden within the megastructure that once housed the Communist HQ. The choice isn’t as renegade as some, but that makes it the perfect get-to-know-you platform for craft novices.

Same Krafty Nowomiejska 10

Hopito Chmielna

ALL PHOTOS THIS SPREAD COURTESY OF EXCEPT RIGHT SHUTTERSTOCK

Chmielna 24

Opened at the start of the year as the younger sister of Hopito’s Żurawia venture, this branch feels a little more mature in its target audience, though every bit as fun in its beer selection - radicalized drinkers will love Hopito’s own crazy brews.

Craft Beer Muranów Andersa 23

Jammed between the Barbican and the Rynek, Same Krafty shines like a beacon amid all the mediocre rip-offs of Old Town. This raucous and rugged tavern-like bar is an unflinchingly jolly refuge from the frostbitten streets. A bad pint is unheard of.

Humble and unpretentious, CBM’s rising stock has been reflected by their growing reputation as one of the finest tap bars with a suburban postcode. Basic as the fauxbrick aesthetic is, this bar deserves credit for serving consistently brilliant beers from their 16 taps.

Kufle i Kapsle Nowogrodzka 25 There are three branches to pick from, but none compete with the original. In colder times, the back room feels wonderfully warming with its vintage armchairs and wonky old lamps. Often packed, the beers are among the most radical found in Warsaw.

warsawinsider.pl

21

Best of Warsaw 2023

BURGER Burger.lab Piękna 28/34 If you thought the burger ‘thing’ had jumped the shark ten years ago, then clearly you haven’t been to Burger.lab. The venue alone is invigorating with things taking a truly wacky turn downstairs – looking like it’s been ambushed by graffiti artists, head here to chow down on non-standard burgers such as the Glam – sprayed gold, it’s packed with unexpected additions like strawberry sauce. Drinkswise, choose from bio wines, craft beers, house lemonades or cocktails that include an electrifying Michelada and a glorious rhubarb gin sour.

Top Dish

Glam Burger

STEAK Another year and another win for Mięsny. It helps that this Insider lives around the corner, but the number of people that cross town to specifically dine here speaks for itself. Fulfilling a dual function as a butchery and a restaurant, the informal surrounds see you taking your dinner amid monochrome tiles and a counter stuffed with slabs of meat. With the lights dimming in the evening, the restaurant angle becomes more pronounced with foodies ordering from a succinct choice that is nothing but a primal pleasure – short and to the point, the simplicity of the menu belies the skill involved in making it all work. For couples, the chateaubriand comes highly recommended. Casual but intimate, find your dinner enhanced further by a highly capable wine list.

22

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2023

PHOTOGRAPHS BOTTOM ROW BY KAMIL ŁUSZCZAK, TOP ROW BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Mięsny Walecznych 64

warsawinsider.pl

23

Best of Warsaw 2023

DESIGN Café Pląs Puławska 113A (Królikarnia)

Occupying a pair of side rooms within the sand-coloured Królikarnia Palace, Pląs introduces itself in a burst of parquet flooring and muted beige shades. There’s two rooms to speak of, and both impress with their tall windows and high ceilings.

Decorated with vintage drawers and retro chairs, these 60s treasures are offset against a statement chandelier and funky neon in the main chamber, and a striking contemporary canvas in the side room. An engaging mix of old and new, its easy on the eye and demands to be Instagrammed.

Perhaps less extroverted than previous winners in this category, it’s this ‘less is more’ approach that has proved so effective. Resisting the urge to go crazy, the design instead enhances what’s already there whilst also naturally following the philosophy of the café. Working hand-in-hand with the artsy-cool vibe, it’s all rounded out nicely by the strategically placed plants, chillout beats and rare-find art books placed reverentially on the shelves. It looks and feels perfect.

24

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2023

The Eatery Koszykowa 49A Swathed in white-on-white colours, The Eatery feels almost holistic in its vibe. With the blinds drawn down – even in daytime – you’re left to bask in an atmosphere that feels blissfully cocooned from the outside world. Decorated with orb-like installations and splashes of dappled granite surfaces, it looks chic and elegant yet also casual and welcoming. What could easily have become a sterile, laboratory-style space feels anything but.

Grace PHOTOGRAPHS THIS SPREAD BY KEVIN DEMARIA EXCEPT RIGHT BY JESSICA NADZIEJKO

Kurcza 16/22 A celebration of 80s era NYC – think Studio 54 or The Deuce season three – Grace celebrates the glam excess of the era in striking style. Designed by Kinga Mostowik, this on-trend cocktail spot divides itself into three – a main room bathed in rich bordello style colours and velvety finishes and a side room that’s high on plush purple, glass and mirrors. Finally, there’s an all-weather conservatory with Italian olive trees and dramatic drapes.

warsawinsider.pl

25

Best of Warsaw 2023

PREMIUM DINING Rozbrat 20 Rozbrat 20

Upmarket but not overly formal, Rozbrat 20 is a Warsaw gastro landmark. Under chef Bartosz Szymczak, the frequently changing tasting menu has a real playful inventiveness to it and is matched by some of the best and most exciting wine choices in the city.

Editor’s Pick 2023

26

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2023

Noriko Mińska 45

With just eight seats and one sitting per day, reservations are mandatory. Priced PLN 750 per head, the cost mirrors what many are calling the most exceptional sushi experience the country has ever seen.

Nuta Pl. Trzech Krzyży 10/14 After being crippled by Covid, Warsaw’s premium sector has bounced back strongly as evidenced by the number of nominees listed in this category. But for all the sterling work others have put in, there could only ever really be one winner: step forward Nuta.

Earning a Michelin star earlier in the year, Andrea Camastra’s visionary approach to cooking has installed Nuta as the most prestigious address in Warsaw. Looking sophisticated but never overly ceremonial, his restaurant is a magical enclave in which time stands still. Mixing his famed scientific techniques with artisanal processes, Camastra’s tasting menu is expressive in its aesthetics and flavour, as if it were an extension of his own firecracker character. Even the cheeseboard is a mind-bender – on our April visit, jaws hit the floor as this arrived in the liquified form of a pear consommé topped with warm gorgonzola foam. A bold, world-class adventure, no restaurant offers such a ride – a second Michelin star seems all but guaranteed.

Hub Praga

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS SPREAD BY KEVIN DEMARIA EXCEPT FAR RIGHT COURTESY OF NOLITA

Jagiellońska 22

Dyletanci Koszykowa 47

The tan, beige and white interior is embellished with moon-shaped mirrors and statement art, and is twinned with tiny a’la carte courses that appear like miniaturised works of art. The ultimate feelgood space, the cool Nordic styling works in step with the sublime cooking of Witek Iwański.

Epoka

Subtle and stylish with its muted, neutral colours and pops of art, amid the light woods and sky-coloured walls, the assembled fine wines have been selected to dance in tandem with the cooking of Rafał Hreczaniuk. His cooking is elegant, eclectic and never short on sensational taste.

Nolita

Ossolińskich 3

Wilcza 46

Nineteenth century cornices and baroque drapes lend an enveloping sense of luxury to this A-Class space. Epoka’s menu is based on Polish cookbooks from different epochs, with the dishes reconstructed in a way that’s innovative, unexpected and a roller coaster of thrills.

Winning our award last year for ‘Outstanding Achievement’, chef Jacek Grochowina’s enclave of class looks dashing with its monochrome colours and muted gunmetal shades. Treasuring detail and finesse, Nolita demonstrates fine dining hasn’t died – superb quality every time.

warsawinsider.pl

27

Best of Warsaw 2023

BAKERY Rdest Puławska 38 This neighbourhood gem could easily go unnoticed were it not for the oversized typography set vertically on the large storefront window – this outsized statement contrasts against the tiny bakery it advertises, a place so small it’s a candidate for the teeniest bakery in the whole of Poland, let alone Warsaw. The idea of graphic artist Karolina Huzarska, this passion project presents a versatile selection of breads (miso, anyone?) but gets just as much love for their cinnamon buns and legendary blueberry crumbles. Be warned though of the curious and ever-changing opening hours.

Będzie Dobrze Piekarnia Puławska 23/25 The top find here is the Japanese milk bread, shokupan, hauled fresh from the oven round about noon. Visit also for wheatrye French baguettes and Poland’s iconic drożdżówka sweet rolls.

28

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2023

Cała w Mące Krasińskiego 18C Regarded as Poland’s most high-profile baker, Monika Walecka’s breads range from white, fluffy loaves to more unique ones using ancient grains such as spelt, emmer and einkorn. The results are magic.

Bułka z Chlebem Walecznych 5 Set down a leafy side street, this is the kind of bakery you dream of living next to: aside from stunning breads served in a charismatic space, check out their addictive pastries.

BRUNCH

Top Dish Copenhagen Plate

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS SPREAD BY KEVIN DEMARIA

(Bread, creamy butter, softboiled free-range eggs, Dutch Gouda and homemade jam)

Baken Żurawia 6/12 & Krochmalna 61 (Browary Warszawskie)

Having already enjoyed great success on Żurawia, the Baken team have made it a year to remember with a second opening on the Browary’s little woonerf. Channelling a hip Scandi vibe, their all-day breakfasts and freshly baked goodies have been embraced by Warsaw. With their original address focused on daytime custom (it closes at 4.30 p.m.), head to their Wola branch to enjoy an evening scene that’s gently guided by a decent offer of bio wines from Poland and abroad.

warsawinsider.pl

29

Best of Warsaw 2023

VEGAN Momencik Poznańska 16

Such is the greatness of Momencik that it outranks many of the ‘legit’ Mexican joints in town. Largely limited to tacos and burritos, this sweaty basement cavern is a true cult address and the salsas practically perfect.

Bracka 20 Bracka 20

Rough-hewn walls, blasts of contemporary art and a forest of plants make B20 lovely to look at, but its plus points go way beyond the visual.

The veganized Asian food is highly recommended and fare well with the rich cultural offer and impressive drinks.

Peaches Gastro Girls Mokotowska 58

Editor’s Pick 2023

30

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2023

There was only ever going to be one winner here. Set with radical orange interiors and featuring a scruffy-cool seasonal courtyard, this operation has done nothing but wow since opening after lockdown. In fact, it was the lockdown that it inspired its creation – cooped up during Covid, flatmates Monika and Klaudia began exploring the web for exotic recipes and veganizing what they found.

Sharing their work with their friends, it wasn’t long till they were swayed into opening a bricks-and-mortar venue. Warsaw is all the richer for it and the wontons continue to be our default star order. And if you really want to show your love, visit their other establishment for something similarly brill (for that, take a trip to Lychees on Bielańska 1).

Boca Boca

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS SPREAD BY KEVIN DEMARIA EXCEPT RIGHT COURTESY OF VEGAN RAMEN SHOP

Kopernika 25

Anchored by a mural that declares ‘Guilty Pleasure’ in glowing pink letters, this pocket-sized locale exudes a sense of fun. The menu casts its net over the biggest comfort foods known to man: the Not Dogs and chimichanga are ace.

Dziki Królik Rzeczypospolitej 2A

The four-table intimacy of this timber-encased room charms immediately but does make reservations mandatory.

Street foods like tacos are veganized with real talent, but it’s the more fine-handed creations that deserve praise: e.g., soy meat bourguignon.

Vegan Ramen Shop Finlandzka 12 Some describe Vegan Ramen Shop as serving “the best noodles in the world!” With locations now around town, for us the best remains the first – a mega cool room divided up by stacks of ‘levitating shelves’ filled with Japanese nick-nacks.

warsawinsider.pl

31

Best of Warsaw 2023

Favorite Dish

Tantamen Ramen

RAMEN Yatta Ramen BBQ Nowolipki 15

32

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2023

There are scores of ramen joints to pick from now, including a fair few operating under the flag of Yatta. Great as those are, the standout is their Nowolipki branch with its cartoon-like illustrative art and slashes of neon giving a busy, youthful vibe. When it comes to their menu, first choice is their restorative Tantamen which comes in vegan or beef versions. And while you’re ordering, pair that with Soboro fries that come heaped with pickles, spring onions and squirts of chili mayo.

SUSHI Japonki

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS SPREAD BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Lwowska 9

There’s a saying that “three’s a crowd”. In Japonki, that’s actually true.

Seating just three people, the dimensions are so tight that diners find themselves practically on top of the staff – literally. Perched next to the window, eating is done looking right down on the sushi masters in the station below. But what sushi this is! Choices are as limited as the space (it works best as a takeaway spot, as highlighted by all the boxes you sit next to), but the quality is faultless.

warsawinsider.pl

33

Best of Warsaw 2023

THE TASTE OF HOME Each year Warsaw’s ethnic scene grows not just in size but quality as well.

Representing the tip of the iceberg, join us as we pick out some of our favourites from the cuisines of the globe…

Argentinean Chimi & Churri Grzybowska 4

Colombian Macondo Kruczkowskiego 15B

34

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2023

This tiny Argentinean alcove rates highly for their speciality: empanadas.

The pasty-like pockets of flaky goodness come with a variety of filling, our fave being the beef with Malbec.

Chinese

Hidden in the pillars that prop up Poniatowski Bridge, Macondo has a cheerful, party vibe helped by Latin party tipples and a menu of crispy empanadas and plantain pancakes.

Ethiopian

China Hot Pot Bakalarska 11

Queen Sheba Jana Pawła II 45A

For PLN 125 all-in, select your ingredients then watch them simmer and sizzle on the table-top grill. The prepping is part of the appeal and the options seemingly endless.

Head to this cramped nook to feast on hot, peppery meats piled onto soft injera bread.

Eaten by hand, enjoy this messy feast in a friendly space filled with Ethiopian trinkets.

Indian Bombaj Masala Wola

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS SPREAD BY KEVIN DEMARIA EXCEPT AHAAN, VIET STREET FOOD, AMAR BEIRUT, CHINESE HOT POTAND HOME BBQ KOREAN FROM FACEBOOK

Krochmalna 61

Lebanese Amar Beirut Fabryka Norblin

Thai Ahaan Plac Unii Lubelskiej

Under a ribbed, wavy wooden ceiling, revel in a plush interior while enjoying posh ‘street food’ and or the off-the-menu vindaloo. Cocktails reflect the slick, dynamic interior and are also excellent.

Korean

Looking upmarket and exotic, missteps do occur (particularly with the service) at Amar but the food often does more than enough to outweigh the pain. Nice cocktails, as well.

Mexican

Found in a historic tollbooth, Ahaan serve mostly authentic ‘street food’ from northern Thailand – that mean more herbs (ginger and lemongrass) and more earthy flavours than you may expect.

Vietnamese

Home BBQ Korean Bakalarska 11

Santa Catrina Radna 14

Viet Street Food Bistro Królowej Aldony 5/2

Smart but family-friendly with its cherry blossoms, lanterns and dangling parasols, cook up your authentic Korean-style bbq under overhead heaters set over the table.

Great fun is had here!

Decorated in Day of the Dead style, the tacos (and salsas!) of Isabel Balderas are legendary.

The number of expat Mexicans that eat here are the ultimate testament to her prowess.

On the back streets of Saska discover this rackety homage to Vietnam.

Steamy bowls of pho aside, order the fried beef with pineapple and oyster sauce from the brief-ish menu.

warsawinsider.pl

35

Best of Warsaw 2023

CHEF Witek Iwański hub.praga Jagiellońska 22

Editor’s Pick 2023

Having won last year’s ‘Top Talent’ award, Witek Iwański has gone a yard further to claim the biggest accolade of all. Beeping loudly on our radar for years, Iwański’s career has refused to flatline, stagnate or otherwise get side-tracked. Leading the hub.praga, this chef has helped affirm Praga’s rising reputation as a foodie destination, all whilst simultaneously thrilling wave-after-wave of visitors with his unique brand of culinary art. His creativity and skill set a benchmark for the rest of Warsaw to follow. Promising no dull moments, his menu is an exercise in adventure.

Andrea Camastra Nuta Pl. Trzech Krzyży 10/14 It’s hard to think of another chef that has done more to lift Warsaw out of the postCovid blues. Turning down lucrative offers from abroad to remain in his adopted country, this outspoken chef restored city pride when, earlier this year, his restaurant saw the capital reclaim a Michelin star. Recognised as one of the top chefs in the world, Camastra’s cooking will rock you to the core. If there’s any justice, he’ll be adding another star to his belt in 2024.

Rafał Hreczaniuk

Dyletanci’s move from their spiritual home has done nothing to dampen the public’s enthusiasm for this Warsaw institution. There is much to love, not least a peerless wine selection amassed by wine importer / vineyard owner Maciej Sondaj. But it is the cooking of Hreczaniuk that elevates this spot from great to event greater. Subtle but often experimentally nuanced, the flavours at Dyletanci never fail to impress. Brilliantly, you can sample Hreczaniuk’s cooking at a snip of the usual price by checking in for our favourite weekday lunch deal that we’ve found in the city.

36

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2023

PHOTOGRAPH HIS PAGE BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Dyletanci Koszykowa 47

NEW GENERATION Trójka Kielichów

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS PAGE COURTESY OF TRÓJKA KIELICHÓW

Stalowa 38 / 2

Trójka Kielichów defies classification – is it a café? A restaurant?

Wine bar? Cocktail den? The truth is, it’s all of these yet none.

A hybrid hangout at the front end of cool, if we were to rely on lazy tropes we’d call it a little taste of hip Berlin – but that in itself would be a falsehood. Thanks to places like this, Warsaw now has its very own sense of artsy identity and benchmarking it against other cities no longer seems to work.

Set on a darkened stretch of Stalowa the location promises little, but inside magic happens.

Under indigo tinted lights, this scuffed room reveals itself in a sea of contradictions: scruffy yet theatrically hip, antique candleholders sit on reflective metal tables that are squeezed inside this tiny, modest space. On cracked pre-war floor tiles, crates of fresh produce rest awaiting their date with the open kitchen.

Drinks are inventive and fun: we follow a girly pink Barbie Spritz with a delicious Praga Libre served in an Arthurian goblet.

Food-wise, the concise choice includes Turkish pochette eggs served in a generous portion with golden chili butter, mint, coriander and spicy bits and pieces. Breads, they’re from the artisanal bakery across the road, and wines from Rascal – Warsaw’s go-to importer of natural libations. Oh, and something sweet: apple crumpets

the size and texture of donuts are delivered with country cream, maple syrup and a dollop of blackcurrant jam.

So what is it? We don’t really know. Imagine, maybe, being invited round to an artist’s

studio for a chat and a drink and some wonderfully curious bites.

Post-lockdown, Warsaw venues have played it safe. Trójka Kielichów doesn’t. Radically creative, it’s an adventurous project that rips up the rule book.

warsawinsider.pl

37

Best of Warsaw 2023

BARS Editor’s Pick

Gemba Chmielna 21

38

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2023

Sprinkled with palms, deckchairs and plastic pelicans and flamingos, Gemba’s courtyard is an exercise in kitschy fun during warmer times. But the hip undercurrent of this bar continues inside – adopting a loose-fitting PRL style, interiors include wood-paneled walls decorated with pics of Pope JPII, sporting pennants and framed artworks from the heyday of the Polish School of Poster. Tricked out with retro wallpaper, the perches by the bar are the most sought, but spillover seating can also be found in a winter garden enclosed by green and scarlet drapes – very David Lynch. Drinks include a broad-minded selection of craft beers, house cocktails and shots while the party spirit is reinforced by DJ sets, jazz jams and, get this, ‘drag bingo’.

PHOTOGRAPH HIS PAGE BY KEVIN DEMARIA

2023

Aura Hoża 27 Tiny as it is, Aura’s Moroccan-style design is mysterious and engaging – promoting the heavy use of swivelly chrome stools and Persian rugs, the heavy hint of retro glam is balanced out by a crowd that strays into the head-turning category. Making them a real one-off is an exhaustive collection of bourbons.

Bar Pacyfik Hoża 61 Based upon the kind of Tijuana dive bar you’d have happened upon during the Miami Vice era, Pacyfik is all candy floss pink and shades of teal: a raw-looking den that looks purposefully imperfect.

Keeping the hip international crowd on the wrong side of drunk are kick-ass cocktails!

Beirut & Kraken Poznańska 12 Somewhere, amid all the junk relating to the Lebanese conflict (sandbags, ammo boxes…), you’ll find the spirit of Poznańska contained within this long, skinny bar. As fashionable now as it was when it opened, finish the evening in their connecting venture, the Pirates of the Caribbean-style Kraken. Evenings are a wild, happy whirl of international languages.

Foton Wilcza 9A You know it’s been an epic weekend when you wake up on Monday knowing that Foton was involved. Conversation with strangers is natural after a few of Foton’s cocktails, and these are enjoyed to a cool backdrop made up of fleet of tumbling plants perched on steel-framed irrigational contraptions.

Klubokawiarnia Towarzyska

Shamrock Sports Bar Kurcza 51

Zwycięzców 49 Set inside a 1950s pavilion and signposted by zippy neon sign, find a cool café-bar on ground level, and a moodier space downstairs that has the atmospheric feel of a David Lynch film. The late hours and artistic clientele can have you thinking you’ve walked into a late 90s music video shot in Williamsburg.

At long last, Warsaw has the sports bar it deserves. Zapping in football, rugby and suchlike from around the world (but mainly Britain), this Irish-run spot is an offshoot of the atmosphere Shamrock Irish Pub on Zgoda. Though a lot smarter than its sister, the raucous sense of fun has carried over – as has the quality Guinness.

Młodsza Siostra Dobra 14/16 Known for its alternative music policy, the crowd is sourced straight from the local Academy of Fine Arts. With temperatures rising, sit on the wooden decking outside. The scrappy backdrop of bike repair garages give a vibe redolent of the shadowy courtyards of Berlin and Budapest.

Ząbkowska 6 Craft beers lurk within the fridge, but for the seminal Absurdu experience order a tray of vodka before bulldozing through the crowds that gather to listen to Balkan rock and Afro-Latin bands. Somewhere, hidden deep beneath the creaking antiques and moth-eaten Persian rugs, you might be lucky to find a woodcarved bar.

Reginabar

Worek Kości

Koszykowa 1 A wacky amalgam of New York’s Little Italy and China Town next door. The menu rocks, but find it augmented by a dynamic cocktail list that reflects the crazy things happening in Warsaw’s world of drinks. Lap these up in an interior that joins the retro with the avant garde: just check out that glittery disco ball.

Republica San Escobar Poznańska 7 Lacking airs and graces, it’s a place where fun rules the roost.

Tiny in size, find an interior filled with corrugated iron sheets, red neons, chunky woods and bike pedals on the footrests. The fun-loving spirits is irresistible, and the tight dimensions mean the party often spills onto the terrace outside.

W Oparach W Absurdu

Bagatela 10 There is nothing ordinary about Worek Kości and that’s underlined by its collection of 400 replica skulls. Known for its burlesque nights, this passionate celebration of the beautiful and bizarre also has a busy roster of lectures dedicated to criminal profiling, forensics and serial killers. Oh, and the cocktails are good.

Wozownia Pl. Trzech Krzyży 16 Set through a pinkish neon lit passageway, find yourself squeezing past the crowds to pass over little alcoves and different steps. Filled with waifish girls knocking back the Prosecco and tanned city boys in tight-fitting trousers, the courtyard is festooned with herby plants and leads to a 200-yearold carriage house that houses a bar selling classic seasonal sips.

warsawinsider.pl

39

KEBAB Chata Wariatta Marcinkowsiego 7 & Gorzykowska 5A Declaring Warsaw’s “best kebab” opens us to death threats – few topics arouse such heated passion. So we won’t. What we will do, though, is name our favourite. Legends on the Praga side of the water, Chata earn big points for their signature ‘gigant’, a monstrous pleasure filled with fries and fresh veg before being lashed with sauces that go beyond the standard. Eating a kebab sober in Warsaw rarely turns out well – in Chata, have no such fear.

40

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2023

PHOTOGRAPH HIS SPREAD BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Best of Warsaw 2023

CASUAL Bibenda Nowogrodzka 10 As Benjamin Franklin once said, “nothing is certain except death and taxes and Bibenda winning the Insider’s recognition.” Since opening nine or so years back, Bibs have grown from a cult eatery to a bona fide giant with a name known nationwide by Poland’s band of foodies. Winning just about every prize going, you’d be well within your rights calling it Warsaw’s favourite restaurant – certainly, that’s what the queue seems to say.

Eschewing reservations in favour of a first come, first served system, in the evening lines stretch out the door as hopeful diners queue for a seat inside.

So, just what is the draw? Augmenting the warm, busy interiors of raw red brick and dim yellow lighting, guests flock here for a menu that celebrates the fields, forests and farmsteads of Poland.

Though not strictly vegetarian, meat has become a rare find here, with the focus now fully shifted on eclectic combinations of freshly plucked goodies – for example, crispy mushrooms and scallions with fermented garlic chili honey and peanut chili crisps.

Paired with craft beers and bio wines, all these elements come together to make a night to remember.

It’s a phenomenon, and rightly so.

warsawinsider.pl

41

Best of Warsaw 2023

WINE BARS Brać Sierakowskiego 4A

Looking dandelion yellow during daytime, come dusk a rich, red neon glow settles over this brilliant locale. Set on a newly-mapped residential street in Praga, it wins our big prize for daring to do something different.

Resistant as traditionalists may be to the very notion of Polish wine, Brać have made it their mission to showcase its unknown quality. Presenting on-edge sips from niche domestic producers, all this is done in a stylish space that feels good to be in.

Editor’s Pick

PHOTOGRAPH HIS SPREAD BY KEVIN DEMARIA

2023

42

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2023

Kontakt Sandomierska 13

Grono_ Mokotowska Mokotowska 54

Contained within a 30 sq/m space, the gorgeous wall fittings on which the wines rest are made to feel an organic part of this pre-war property. A place of subtle and calming class, its location makes it an ideal post-boutique check-in.

Ale Wino Mokotowska 48

Weaknesses do not exist in Kontakt, and if they do, they have yet to be identified.

Glorious in its deep shades of blue, the 400-strong wine list is a deep dive into the extraordinary. Slanted towards natural, bio-dynamic and organic wines, the fivestar experience is aided by wonderful food.

You can’t talk about Warsaw’s best wine bars and fail to mention Ale Wino. Now considered a veteran when bunched against so many young guns, this warming labyrinth feels snug, intimate and even a little rustic.

Around 250 wines have been amassed and they go brilliantly with the food.

Żaba Wine Bar

Riverside views aren’t the only plus, for the design inBulwary Generała side this pavilion is something George’a Smitha else – fetching at night, the Pattona 966 colours and furnishings create the impression of entering a lava lamp. A fave with the insta crowd, wines are as interesting as the maverick menu.

Niewinność Zgoda 5

Though lacking the exhaustive choice of its competitors, Niewinność has a brilliant atmosphere that feels more like entering a hip loft apartment belonging to a friend. It’s this casual-cool, make-yourselfat-home vibe that has made it a legend.

Rascal Moliera 6

Formerly a canteen for ballet dancers, this address now holds is the largest bar in Europe specialising in natural wines – you weren’t expecting that! Entered past a lavish drape, this cool space has a suitably adventurous choice of rebel wines.

warsawinsider.pl

43

Best of Warsaw 2023

COCKTAILS Lane’s Gin Bar Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44 (Bristol Hotel)

Editor’s Pick

PHOTOGRAPH HIS SPREAD BY KEVIN DEMARIA

2023

With so many fantastic choices to now be had, the task of determining the best cocktail bar in Warsaw is as fruitless as deciding on the world’s best colour – put simply, it’s all a matter of preference.

That being the case, our preference has become none other than Lane’s. Set inside the Bristol Hotel, it unmasks itself in a palette of peachy-pink colours that exude a stylish warmth. Featuring no shortage of brass, glass, stone and satin, the perfect proportions and floaty ambience make it intimate enough to feel like a private members club. That sense of personalization peaks when seated at a bar that presents a motherlode of glimmering bottles set against a mosaic that gently riffs on the building’s Art Nouveau and Art Deco heritage.

But it is the cocktails that you visit for, and these include numerous gin-based sips, classics and house specials fixed using best-in-class ingredients.

On occasion, prices can make the nose bleed, but have no doubt that Lane’s is nothing less than spectacular.

44

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2023

El Koktel Wojciecha Górskiego 9

VHS Poznańska 7

Zaremba Nowogrodzka 15

The shoebox sized VHS pays tribute to the 80s and 90s and is a model for good times – boasting a flamingo and pictures of Mr T., the toilet says it all. The drinks are among the wackiest in Warsaw, and they’re as fun to drink as they are to photograph.

Ave Pegaz

Black and white photos referencing the history of this former gentleman’s atelier gaze from the walls onto a compact interior heaving with brass, terrazzo and blue velvet finishes. A café by day, come evening Zaremba moves into cocktail territory with sophisticated drinks crafted from premium components.

Va Bene Cicchetti

Piłsudskiego 9

Waryńskiego 9C

For many no-one does it better. The ‘ring the bell’ entry process lends a speakeasy feel that’s accented by a small interior faintly illuminated by dozens of bare bulbs.

Peer through this midnight discover for a lesson in mixology – the cocktails are international class and often break boundaries with their taste and presentation.

Inside a lively interior that doesn’t take itself too seriously (check the ‘ceiling garden’), swivel about to gawk at a mighty collection of corkscrews and drinking implements. In this alchemist’s workshop find yourself enjoying some of the most creative cocktails in Warsaw.

Rich in golds and operatic reds, the stylish Venetian theme includes table legs painted in gondola stripes and a signature mural made from mirrored shards. Drinks are works of art and tailored around Italian ingredients – the highlights include six interpretations of the negroni.

warsawinsider.pl

45

Best of Warsaw 2023

DATE NIGHT Żelazna 51/53 (Norblin Factory) Winner of last year’s “Night to Remember” category, the Piano Bar remains as relevant now as it did back then. At a time when Warsaw’s nightlife seems obsessed with dumbing itself down for the Tik Tok generation, this spot feels one of the dwindling few that appreciates the finer things in life.

Oozing class, the 12-foot chandelier that hangs over the chessboard coloured floors fosters the feeling of entering Jay Gatsby’s ballroom. That sensation is compounded by a busy program of live entertainment – funk, blues, jazz and soul are the mainstay, and these sounds suit the place well.

Benefiting from an equally strong drinks menu that boasts plenty of fancy cocktails, it’s a venue that feels smart, affluent and more sophisticated than the norm. Enjoyed by a crowd that tends to be late 20s upwards, this project fills its niche with aplomb.

46

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2023

PHOTOGRAPH HIS PAGE COURTESY OF PIANO BAR, OPPOSITE PAGE BY JĘDRZEJ ŁUCZAK

Piano Bar

CLUBBING K-Bar Powiśle Leona Kruczkowskiego

Hidden up a set of steps inside one of the pillars that prop up Poniatowskiego Bridge, K-Bar Powiśle has become the talk of the town since opening earlier in the year. Providing an alternative to the usual Smolna / Luzztro / Jasna 1 scene, the location alone lends an ‘in the know’ frisson of adventure to your evening. Small, sweaty, raw and intimate, the industrial-style vibe is offset against oriental lanterns and the occasional Korean flag. Even with glimpses of light allowed in through the barred slit windows, the feeling is of being in some secretive, underground Berlin club. Music-wise, and evenings promise everything from Italo-rave to techno trance. That this place found itself highlighted by MixMag says a fair deal.

Sen Wioślarska 6

Some would say that Sen enjoys its heyday in the summer when the rooftop terrace opens to afford views of the illuminated bridges that span the river. But even outside these months it’s long enjoyed a reputation as Warsaw’s premier super-lux club. High class cocktails and a stringent door policy have helped maintain their name as the principal destination for glam, catwalk excess.

Editor’s Pick 2023

Niebo Nowy Świat 21

Hidden down a potholed alley running behind Nowy Świat, weekends at Niebo have a habit of attracting foreign DJs and acts. At other times, the generous floorplan sits well with other more experimental live performers.

warsawinsider.pl

47

NEW RESTAURANT IN MOKOTÓW

OUT OF LOVE FOR OUR GUESTS

Visit .LABA restaurant for: • Polish cuisine with a twist • Complex KETO restaurant experience

by KETO City • For cocktails, wine and craft beer • Live music events

4.9 .LABA Mokotów, Warsaw ul. Domaniewska 30 (CBRE building) laba.waw.pl In Novemeber, use the code WARSAW INSIDER and get 20% off

INSIDER'S

GUIDE For a catch-all solution offering a variety of food, drinks and social experiences under one address, check out the following Warsaw legends…

COMMUNIT Y HUBS & FOOD HALLS

warsawinsider.pl

49

NORBLIN FACTORY

In October

ul. Żelazna 51/53, fabrykanorblina.pl

Editor’s Pick 2023

For our top food and drink picks inside Norblin Factory check page 19 and on p. 46 for the now legendary Piano Bar!

Swing into the Art Box Experience an immersive celebration of Monet and other impressionist legends such as Renoir, Cassatt, Cezanne, OVERVIEW Representing 200-years of history, Manet the and onlyBoudin.

Apple Museum in the Every Mon and Opened on the site of a former the two hectare site is riddled country (as their in theacclaimed tech brand, not Tues, find also RetOVERVIEW metal factory, the scale of with over 50 leftovers from the the fruit), ashow, factory museum and ro Warszawa a remarkable Opened on the site of a former metal factory, the scale of Norblin Norblin takes a while to sink Industrial Revolution and these the Smart Kids Planet – visitors a 1,600 experience that transports takes a while to sink in. A beautiful combination of new and old, such in.

A beautiful combination of are set against attractions sq/m project with nine zones that back to the golden inter-war years. it’s aand photogenic of everything new old, it’s aexample photogenic asthat themakes luxury modern Kinogram cinema aimother to promote thinking, As for notablelogical happenings, Warsaw so captivating.

Representing 200-years of history, the two example of everything that makes (champagne vending machines!), enjoy healthy eating, motor functions, a Polish karaoke night in hectareWarsaw site is riddled with over 50 leftovers from the Industrial modern so captivating. the immersive Art Box Experience, Food perception and creative thinking.

Town on October 1st, and Revolution and these are set against attractions such as the expect concerts every Sunday luxury Kinogram cinema (champagne vending machines!), the evening inside MOXO. immersive Art Box Experience, the only Apple Museum in the country (as in the tech brand, not the fruit), a factory museum and HALA KOSZYKI the Smart Kids Planet – a 1,600 sq/m project with nine zones that

ul. Koszykowa 63, koszyki.com aim to promote logical thinking, healthy eating, motor functions, perception and creative thinking.

OVERVIEW Revolutionizing Warsaw’s food and drink scene, the 2016 reopenF&B ing of Koszyki can be considered Warsaw’s largest food hall (23 one of the watershed moments food points and five bars!) has in the city’s gastro timeline. Conbeen intelligently designed so sidered the grande dame of food as to retain intimacy while never halls, the to brick and visitors wrought ceasing remind asiron interiors of this spot of look beautiful to its diverse range choices with F&B offer splitdistrict’ between – thethe so-called ‘Asian standalone restaurants such scores particularly highly.

In as the fancy Warszawski to venstandalone terms, topSen marks dors fist-bumping, burrito go tolike thethe elegant Piano Bar, the boys at Gringo. craft beer eclectic UwagaFor craft beer haven, and then Kiełba the grilled swankysausages MOXO bar-club Bar Koszyki JOIN THE CLUB wcrossover, Gębie don’t footof wrong, theput TexaMex Blue Dominating the social angle is Bar Koszyki, a wraparound Debuting in February, frequent visitors though lines are Cactusthe andbiggest the newly-launched bar that runs length-wise down this hall. The lack of bar-side to join the Norblin usually for Soul Food Middlereserved Eastern emporium that is can now register seating is a minus but other faults are hard to find. As a meeting an app that will give members Burgers.

The open-all-hours ĆMA Factory Club, Amar Beirut.

Finally, check into spot, this remains one of Warsaw’s default choices – the access to exclusive offers, promotions isthe a legend in its lifetime, Bio Bazar, a own farmers’ market atmosphere here reflects the international swagger of the and discounts. Free to download, it’s whilst Upper Deck has won with aThe reputation that extends modern-day capital and is complemented by cocktails that are been designed with guests, tenants and credit for its cocktails. nationwide. fixed quickly and with skill. Beers are decent as well and include suppliers in mind. the super-frothy ‘milk’ Pilsner.

Highlight

50

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2023

ELEKTROWNIA POWIŚLE

ul. Dobra 42, elektrowniapowisle.com OVERVIEW Initially completed in 1904 to serve as Warsaw’s primary source of electricity, Elektrownia relaunched in 2020 with its blended approach ELEKTROWNIA including an exclusive top floor POWIŚLE beauty hall filled with cutting edge ul.

Dobra and 42, beauty therapy cosmetic elektrowniapowisle.com solutions and a retail offer than tends to shirk the mainstream to OVERVIEW instead slant in on contemporary Initially completed in 1904 to Polish design, upscale vintage, serve as Warsaw’s primary local niche brands and established sourceThe of electricity, Elektrownia talent. food and drink though appears with frequency in local has also been a major plus, with history books –going contested during most attention to a food hall the 1944 Warsaw Uprising (shrapthat appears in a sea of neon. nel holes still dent the building

Highlight Dock 19 Standalone F&B options include the fun-fuelled TexMex Blue Cactus and the jazzy cocktail bar Gatsby – the top check-in though is Dock 19, an alluring restobar decorated with industrial hooks, overhead cranes, a swanky ribbed bar and bare bulbs that evoke the feeling of a theatre dressing room.

Drinks and food are cosmopolitan and often perfectly executed.

warsawinsider.pl

51

CENTRUM PRASKIE KONESER Pl. Konesera, koneser.eu

OVERVIEW Reopened in 2018 as a mixed-use project containing cultural sites, F&B outlets, A Class offices and loft-style apartments, no other investment has had a bigger impact on Praga’s overdue regeneration than Koneser. Culturally, it’s also done much thanks to the Polish Vodka Museum, the Museum of Fantastic Art and temporary exhibitions such as Banksy in 2021. For most though, the F&B lineup is the strongest attraction of all and this includes upmarket Indian from Bombaj Malasa, and the casual eatery Spółdzielnia.

Highlight Koneser Grill Belonging to the portfolio of Ferment Group (owners and creators of Rozbrat 20, Butchery & Wine and a string of other essential eateries), enjoy a sophisticated, meat-centric menu amid smooth lighting, blond woods, metal fixtures and outbreaks of rich teal colours. For foodies, Koneser Grill is the lynchpin that holds Koneser together!

52

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2023

Highlight Browar Warszawski Haberbuscha i Schielego 2 Presenting a thousand different faces, this multi-floored venue has a strong post-industrial aesthetic, but this is softened by a proliferation of details such as flourishes of vintage, lavishly upholstered seats and plenty of gleaming beer tanks. Available in 18 or so styles, the house beers are excellent and do a grand job of broadly introducing Poland’s craft direction. But Browar’s real talent lies in its adaptability, and this flexibility isn’t just underscored by the interesting cocktails and top-range spirits, but also a wide-ranging menu.

BROWARY WARSZAWSKIE

Grzybowska 58, browarywarszawskie.com.pl OVERVIEW Utilising elements of a historic brewery and setting them against an upmarket backdrop of freshly mapped streets and immaculate new build that feels contextually suited to the district, Browary Warszawaskie looks beautiful.

Billing itself as a premium food hall, the centrepiece of Browary contrasts well against Warsaw’s other offers. Occupying a beautifully lit vaulted chamber that was once used to store beer, this magnificently formed space presents an offer based around a “quality over quantity” with twelve concepts vying for attention. Pertinently, the wider offer has also cemented itself into Warsaw’s conscience thanks to addresses such as Robert Lewandowski’s Nine’s sports bar, the ever-popular Balkan eatery Munja, and Baila – a stunning live entertainment emporium. But our favourite enclave of all? The flagship brewpub…

Nova Wola

AUTHENTIC POLISH CUISINE Rondo Daszyńskiego 2 , Warsaw +48 22 377 38 01 novawola@ihg.com novawola.com

warsawinsider.pl

53

AS THE WEATHER COOLS, WARM YOURSELF WITH A HOT STONE MASSAGE...

The hot stone ritual is a holistic massage that, in addition to relieving muscle tension and relaxing the spirit, improves the metabolism and reduces stress. This treatment uses smooth, heated basalt stones, which maintain their temperature due to their properties. During the session, they are placed on strategic points responsible for the flow of energy in the body and moved along the meridians to stimulate the chakras. The stones are then used for massage which helps to relax tense muscles and increase blood flow. Hot stones have warming properties which contribute to a deep feeling of relaxation and better nourishment of the skin, which then becomes firmer and more elastic.

Body & Mind massage by HANKA KRASZCZYŃSKA Airport Hotel Okęcie, Tel. +48 22 456 81 21 w 381, +48 573 080 401 E-mail: body.mind.airporthotel@gmail.com Hotel Polonia Palace, Tel. +48 22 318 28 13, +48 798 665 254 E-mail: Mail: body.mind.warszawa@gmail.com www.lomilomi.waw.pl

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

THE REST IS… HISTORY

Opened at the end of September, the Polish History Museum adds to Warsaw’s rollcall of world class institutions…

warsawinsider.pl

55

Polish History Museum Warsaw Citadel, muzhp.pl

B

uilt at a cost of over PLN 1 billion, and jointly opened by the President and Prime Minister, the importance of the Polish History Museum should never be called into question. Though the permanent exhibition remains locked off as final works are completed, visits are still encouraged not least to peruse a temporary exhibition titled Creating the Collection of the Polish History Museum. Gathering 500 objects, these include a 16th century tapestry, an Enigma cipher machine, General Stanislaw Maczek’s WWII uniform, a manhole cover that once led to a secret wartime radio station, and

56

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2023

the will of Ryszard Siwiec – the man who burned himself alive to protest the Soviet Union’s 1968 invasion of Czechoslovakia.

Together, these items serve as a compelling teaser for a museum that will ultimately seek to present the 1,000year history of the nation across 9,000 sq/m of exhibition space. Aiming to attract 500,000 tourists per annum, when eventually complete the country’s largest ever cultural investment will house a staggering 60,000 exhibits.

In the meantime, the interim exhibits serve as a delicious appetiser and allow visitors to explore this stunning new landmark – unmissable is a walk around the rooftop.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

In the meantime, the interim exhibits serve as a delicious appetiser and allow visitors to explore this stunning new landmark – unmissable is a walk around the rooftop.

Warsaw’s First KETO Restaurant!

Visit us in:

Kiełba w Gębie & KETO City Hala Koszyki ul. Koszykowa 63 / Warsaw Order using your favorite delivery app!

KETO Smash Pastrami Burger on a protein bun FOLLOW US

F:79,6g / P:43,6g / C:11,8g / kcal: 987,8

warsawinsider.pl

57

Premiering in October, the National Museum’s latest exhibition presents some of Picasso’s finest works…

W

hen Picasso visited Warsaw in 1948, his days weren’t just spent touring the city’s broken ruins or causing havoc in the Hotel Bristol.

He also visited the National Museum where he expressed his appreciation for the Polish art on display.

Given special dispensation to smoke during his tour, so impressed was he that

58

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2023

he later donated twenty hand-painted ceramic plates to the institution. Now, the love affair has been renewed courtesy of a new exhibition that presents 120 of the artist’s works.

Featuring graphics, ceramics and book illustrations, many are being presented for the first time in Poland and it is perhaps the former that have aroused the greatest interest. Created after WWII during Picasso’s stay

Where: Jerozolimskie 3 (National Museum in Warsaw) When: ongoing till January 14th Web: mnw.art.pl

PHOTOGRAPH BY BARTOSZ BAJERSKI,

CELEBRATING PICASSO

on the French Riviera, it was here that he experimented with various decorative techniques, moulding, shaping, carving and sculpting around 3,500 objects over the following two decades. Many of these ceramic platters, jugs and vases were adorned with images of mythological creatures, animals, plants and food, and some of these have now made their way to Warsaw.

The concept of beauty also plays a major role in this exhibition and those visiting will be able to identify Ancient and Renaissance inspirations in his engravings and portraits – particularly those of his partner, Françoise Gilot. However, neither is his fleeting visit to Poland overlooked. Arriving to attend the World Congress of Intellectuals in Defence of Peace in Wrocław, his schedule also included trips to Warsaw and Kraków. In the latter he bought embroidered sheepskin coats as souvenirs in the city’s Rynek, and those attending the exhibition – held to commemorate the 50th anniversary of his death – will be able to see some Polish accents in the works on display.

BROUGHT TO YOU BY

IT'S SHOW TIME AT CHATON WARSAW

Warsaw’s exclusive dinner show club will deliver a night to remember…

IMAGES THIS PAGE COURTESY OF CHATONW

D

iscover CHATON WARSAW, Restaurant / Live Show & Club - the most exclusive place of its kind in Poland.

New, unique concept that combines art, food, beauty, fun and unforgettable emotions. Get ready for amazing experience provided by best artists, musicians and dancers, accompanied by top class cuisine and cocktails.

In a 100-year-old historical building, which remembers the banquets and raves from the beginning of the last century, passionate people created a venue that has never been seen in this part of Europe before.

Chaton Warsaw quickly became a favorite place of entertainment for business people, celebrities, expats and foreign guests. On four levels of glamorous tenement house, in Foksal St. in the very heart of Warsaw, there is a restaurant, club, dedicated cigar room and Diamond VIP Room.

The "Dinner Show" concept, which is a combination of club, restaurant and theater, became very popular in the entertainment capitals of the world such as Barcelona, Miami, Los Angeles, Dubai

or Shanghai. Now It's time for Warsaw. Chaton's main weekend attraction is the spectacular show - a feast for the senses - during an exquisite dinner guests will be delighted with a unique artistic program performed by singers, dancers, acrobats, drag queens from around the world. This November Chaton will treat its guests with two Dinner Show programs: „Disco Fever", „Super Bowl" and with two Le Show programs: „Dirty Wednesday" and „Sexy Back".

Nights at CHATON are genuine celebrations of life. Talented bartenders will serve unique signature cocktails, while top DJs will encourage you to dance all the night long.

From Tuesday to Saturday from 6:00 PM until midnight, phenomenal Chef Michał Miłoszewski will take you on a culinary journey at CHATON Restaurant, presenting his signature menu that connects Polish and French flavors. Every evening you can expect live music, top cuisine and great vibes. Chaton is an ideal place for romantic date, business meeting or dinner with friends. Unforgettable experience - guaranteed!

If you're looking for more than just an ordinary night of entertainment and wish to explore new emotions while immersing yourself in a magical atmosphere - Chaton Warsaw is the place that will stay in your memoryfor a long time.

For more information visit www.ChatonWarsaw.com warsawinsider.pl

59

Continuing the style of Caravaggio, Mattia Preti is the focus of Łazienki’s latest exhibition…

M

attia Preti (1613–1699), a.k.a. Il Cavaliere Calabrese, is the subject of the latest temporary exhibition at Łazienki Królewskie.

Considered one of the most important Italian painters of the late Baroque period, he combined the luminism of Caravaggio and the rich colouring of Titian and Veronese to create his own original style. Defined by its expressive elegance and simplified details, his oeuvre is a breathtaking affair.

Working in Rome and Na-

60

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2023

ples before settling in Malta in 1661, he later became the official painter of the Order of Malta and found himself often commissioned by families associated with the Maltese knights.

This exhibition pays heed to that and opens with a historical outline of Malta and presents examples of Maltese handicrafts and those related to the history of the island. The next part of the exhibition is arranged chronologically and takes a closer look at the painter’s earlier works, whilst the core of the exhibition is made up of several paintings commis-

sioned by the Order of Malta.

The exhibition also showcases Mattia Preti as a prominent frescoist of the Cathedral of St. John in Valletta. There, he produced a series of wall paintings depicting the life and martyrdom of St. John the Baptist, among others, and this exhibition showcases several reproductions. The exhibition further shows the means of artistic expression and methods of expression that Mattia Preti used. The painting ‘The Martyrdom of St. Catherine of Alexandria’, which was repainted by him, serves as an example. The changes made to the work are shown via a multimedia presentation.

Where: the Officer Cadet School (Łazienki Królewskie) When: ongoing until March 3rd Web: lazienki-krolewskie.pl

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF ŁAZIENKI KRÓLEWSKIE

THE MASTER OF LATE BAROQUE

EXHIBITION: EUROPE’S EARLY ARMS RACE

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF THE ROYAL CASTLE IN WARSAW

Due to debut in November, the Royal Castle’s latest exhibition explores the development European military technology…

C

ommonly known as the Italian Wars, the string of conflicts that tore apart the Italian peninsula between 1494 and 1559 also witnessed unprecedented advancements in military technology. In Dürer’s Germany and Machiavelli’s Italy, designs were born for the most perfect pieces of armour and weapons that could counter them. When this conflict finally simmered down, workshops continued this arms race, producing weapons of the highest

calibre. In fact, right until the end of the 17th century, these workshops in Italy and Germany are credited with manufacturing the best weapons in Europe.

This exhibition seeks to explore this period in full, presenting a series of German and Italian weapons dating from the 16th and 17th centuries. Introducing visitors to the fading world of knightly culture, visitors will learn how this era was phased out to give way to more modern and sophisticated weaponry.

It was in these times that the sword and crossbow were switched out in favour of small arms and artillery.

Of the highlights, the most cherished exhibits include armour once belonging to Mikołaj Radziwiłł the Red Mikołaj Krzysztof Radziwiłł the Orphan. Borrowed from the Kunsthistorisches Museum in Vienna, these objects can be seen alongside a Milanese helmet produced by the Missaglia family.

Other items, meanwhile, have been sourced from the Royal Castle in Warsaw, and the private collections of the Małecki, Downar-Dukowicz and Radziwiłł family.

From Nuremberg to Milan: Following the trail of European military technology Where: Pl. Zamkowy (The Royal Castle in Warsaw) When: November 10th to February 18th Web: zamek-krolewski.pl

warsawinsider.pl

61

The Five Flavours Asian Film Festival Returning for its 17th edition, the cult film festival is back for another deep dive into Asian cinema…

62

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2023

Hail to Hell

B

illed as a unique review of cinema from East and Southeast Asia, the Five Flavours Asian Film Festival kicks off in earnest on November 15th and will run in dual format – online until December 3rd, and in physical form until November 21st.

Also providing an opportunity to discover Asian pop culture, discuss art, politics and the challenges posed by the modern world, the core of the program will of course be anchored around the films themselves.

Screenings, meanwhile, will be accompanied by meetings with filmmakers, in-depth discussions, debates, introductions and other such events aimed at presenting as broadly as possible the contemporary face of Asian culture.

Primarily comprised of titles unknown in Poland, the wide-ranging selection includes auteur cinema, as well as

high-quality genre films, daring works by independent filmmakers and commercial, big-budget productions that have made their mark on Asia's cinematic landscape.

This year, pride of place will be given to two classics of Taiwanese film: Goodbye, Dragon Inn (2003) and Millenium Mambo (2001). The festival will also see two “subversive South Korean comedies” in the form of Hail to Hell and A Wild Roomer as part of the New Asian Cinema category, as well as the Indonesian drama Autobiography.

“These three impressive debuts have already caused quite a stir in the international festival circuit,” say the organisers.

Also lined up will be a roll-call of films celebrating contemporary Indian cinema, Hong Kong heroines, and the movies of Chihiro Ito. These, of course, represent just the tip of the iceberg.

What: the Five Flavours Asian Film Festival Where: Kinoteka & Kino Muranów When: Nov 15th till Nov 21st (until Dec 3rd online) Web: piecsmakow.pl

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF THE FIVE FLAVOURS ASIAN FILM FESTIVAL

Millenium Mambo

learning preschools AMERICAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW

Students aged 3-5 are encouraged to try new things, ask questions, and take risks in a nurturing environment in which they learn life skills alongside academics. Following the Primary Years Programme (PYP), our young students become caring, active participants in a lifelong journey of learning. Contact admissions@

aswarsaw.org

BRITISH PRIMARY SCHOOL OF WILANOW

A values-driven school offering a world-class education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS). Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9. Please email admissions@ bswilanow.org to organise a visit.

THE CANADIAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW PRESCHOOL

Welcoming students from the ages of 2.5 to 6 years old, currently 45% of their admissions are international students. The dedicated, IB-trained teachers deliver an innovative program (PYP) in English designed for modern world needs. The program offers a combination of Literacy, Maths, Social Studies, Science, Physical Education, Art, Music & Rhythmics, French and Polish classes. ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53,

tel. 697 979 100, canadian-school.pl

CASA DEI BAMBINI & TODDLER SCHOOL

(multiple locations) Casa dei Bambini and Toddler School have three green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin.

The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 12 months to 6 years of age.

ul. Badowska 19, ul. Tatrzańska 5a (Mokotów), ul. Szkolna 16, (Izabelin), tel. 692 099 134, wmf.edu.pl

warsaw montessori family

Warsaw Montessori Schools

Accepting applications for our programs and locations: Infant & Toddler Tatrzańska 5a Badowska 19

Casa dei Bambini Badowska 19 Szkolna 16, Hornówek

Elementary Szwoleżerów 4

„Erdkinder” Middle School THE BRITISH SCHOOL WARSAW – EARLY YEARS CENTRE

Our Early Years Foundation Stage provides a play-based learning curriculum full of curiosity, wonder and discovery – the perfect springboard into Primary education. ul. Dąbrowskiego 84, tel. 22

646 77 77, thebritishschool.pl

THE INTERNATIONAL TRILINGUAL SCHOOL OF WARSAW

Tatrzańska 5a

Established in 1994, The Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary, and pre-school education with an international curriculum for children aged from one to 15. The full immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English,

Montessori High School

Pytlasińskiego 13a Contact Office: 692 099 134 office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl

www.wmf.edu.pl

reklama montessori 1/3_46x206.indd 1

warsawinsider.pl

63

18.12.2018 12:32

Polish, Spanish or Chinese, French or Japanese. Teachers are highly-qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain, China and Japan. ul. Nobla 16 (tel. 501 036 637), ul.

Karowa 14/16 (tel. 503 072 119), ul.

Krolowej Aldony (tel. 533 321 084), office@3languages.pl, itsw.edu.pl

THE ENGLISH PLAYHOUSE

The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów.

The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old. For more info or to arrange a tour call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email: jnowak@

theenglishplayhouse.com ul.

Pływiańska 14a, tel. 22 843 9370, tep. edu.pl

MONTESSORI STEPPING STONES

MAPLE TREE MONTESSORI

Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle.

They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from

ADMISSIONS OPEN EARLY YEARS, PRIMARY, SECONDARY & IB admissions@thebritishschool.pl (0048) 22 842 32 81 ext. 125

thebritishschool.pl

64

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2023

Rotmistrzowska/Petyhorska), tel.

531 599 444, mapletreemontessori.pl

An intimate, international, English-speaking preschool located in Powsin that follows the Montessori philosophy which emphasizes the individuality of each child. Children from the ages of 1.5-years-old to 6-years-old are welcome, with the school’s goals aimed at facilitating the individual development of the child, both physical and mental, through a system that is focused on the spontaneous use of the human intellect. ul. Przyczółkowa 140, tel. 728 939 582, montessoristeppingstones.pl

schools

AKADEMEIA HIGH SCHOOL

Akademeia High School is an academically selective international school in Warsaw, offering iGCSEs and A Levels whilst preparing students for the best universities in the world. The staff body consists of alumni of the world’s best universities, whilst facilities at what has become Poland’s most prestigious school include an art studio, auditorium, sports hall and roof garden. ul. Ledóchowskiej 2, akademeia.edu.pl

AMERICAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW

With over 50 nationalities, ASW has been welcoming students from around the world since 1953. As an IB Continuum school, our students follow the PYP, MYP and DP throughout their learner journey.

These programmes develop inquiring, knowledgeable and caring young people who are motivated to succeed. They are inspired by our highly qualified and international teaching staff. Students graduate with either the IB diploma or an American high school diploma. All programs are conducted in English, with integrated EAL support for

non-native speakers. Contact: admissions@aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00, ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), aswarsaw.org

BRITISH PRIMARY SCHOOL OF WILANOW

A values-driven school offering a world-class education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS).

Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9. Please email admissions@ bswilanow.org to organise a visit

Values based Education, Nursery to Year 9 admissions@bswilanow.org ul. Hlonda 12 | Warsaw

bsw.com.pl +48 221 220 062

warsawinsider.pl

65

in her educational philosophy such as: responsibility for one’s own development, care for others, THE BRITISH SCHOOL honesty, empathy, and service. The WARSAW school continues to meet the prinDelivering an inclusive, rigorous ciples of Maria Montessori through and high-quality education implementing theBritish IB Diploma inProgram a diverse and caring principles andenvironpractices. ment, mission of TBSHigh is toSchool balance Warsaw Montessori academic success with character is an authorized IB World School building and well-being.

Students for the Diploma Programme – code at061201.

The British School Warsaw ul. Pytlasińskiego 13A, tel. learn an internationally 787 095 835, wmf.edu.plrespected curriculum, based on the best of British academics. They take pride in their excellent results at both International Baccalaureate Diploma Programme (IBDP) and IGCSE level, which are well above the global average.

shopping experiences

ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, thebritishschool.pl GALERIA PÓŁNOCNA

Białołęka’s first major shopping center includes stores such as Forever 21, Lagerfeld and Guess.

Part of the ‘fourth generation of shopping centers’, add-ons include THE ENGLISH PRIMARY a 5,000 sq/m rooftop garden and The English is designed some of thePrimary best kid’s facilities on specifically for children the primary Poland’s retail map. ul.in Światowida education ages, just as children 17, galeriapolnocna.pl

66

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2023

experience in England but in an KLIF HOUSE OF FASHION

international community.

Pupils Warsaw’s original luxury shopping are taken the center hasthrough a line-up ofkey toplearning boutiques stages so that they can Paul achieve that include Max Mara, & Shark to the best ul. of their ability58/72, through Okopowa klif.pl and Pinko. a fun learning experience. The Core Curriculum PLAC UNII subjects include English, Phonics, latest Science, One of Warsaw’s mallMathecounts matics, French, PE and Armani Jeans, Liu-Jo andSwimming, Pandora Music, Personal, Socialtenants. and Health amongst its upmarket ul.

Education.2,ul.placunii.pl Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 784 Puławska 037 808, tep.edu.pl

MYSIA 3

The line-up in this trendy department store includes Scandinavian fashion in Cos, a Leica camera shop, Asfalt vinyl store, Japanese fashion and accessories from Muji and THE CANADIAN SCHOOL sunglasses from Gloomy Sunday.OF WARSAW INTERNATIONAL After, check into Reginbar for cooling ELEMENTARY AND MIDDLE cocktails in a hip atmosphere. ul.

SCHOOL Mysia 3, mysia3.pl

Located on two campuses in the MokotówSAWA this is the only authorized WARS JUNIOR IB Schoollocated, with PYP programs taught Centrally perks of Wars in English and Polish.

French is Sawa Junior include Poland’s only taught and as a the thirdlargest language.

Offers Uniqlo adidas store in a wide range of extra activities, a the country. summer school, and employs a full time psychologist.

Provision WESTFIELD ARKADIA is made forPolish additional and Not many mallsPolish do it better.

English International staff, Stores insupport. this giant include Mango, cultural events and challenging Lacoste, Guess, Hilfiger and Peek & student initiatives create the perfect Cloppenburg.

Al. Jana Pawła II 82, learning environment. ul.

Bełska westfield.com 7, tel. 692 411 573 / 885 420 044, secretary@canadian-school.pl WESTFIELD MOKOTÓWor secretary.olimpijska@ Stores inc. Calvin Klein, Hollister, canadian-school.pl Hugo Boss, New Balance, Royal

Collection and Timberland. ul.

Wołoska 12, westfield.com

VITKAC THE INTERNATIONAL Poland’s first luxury department store TRILINGUAL SCHOOL OF gathers the world’s top designers WARSAW under one roof, with brands including Established in 1994, The Trilingual Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton, School of Warsaw offers nursery, Gucci, Stella McCartney, Stone primary, andRick pre-school Island and Owens. education Further with an international curriculum features include a rooftop restaurant. for from one to 15. ul. children Bracka 9,aged vitkac.com The full immersion trilingual setting allows forTARASY the choice between ZŁOTE English, Polish, Spanishas oraChinese, Seen from the outside giant French or Japanese.

Teachers are glass bubble, selling points here highly-qualified native speakers include a Multikino cinema, a from the US, France, China of Calypso fitness club,Spain, and a branch and Japan.Rock ul. Nobla (tel. 501 036 the Hard Café.16 Stores include

637), ul. Karowa 503Hugo 072 high-end brands14/16 at Van(tel.

Graaf, 119), Krolowej (tel.

533 Boss,ul.

Guess and Aldony Victoria’s Secret.

321 084), office@3languages.pl, itsw.

Global foods can be found at Kuchnie edu.pl Swiata. ul. Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl

warsawinsider.pl

77

MONNET INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

Located in Mokotów, the Monnett is the only school in Poland that implements the International Baccalaureate Program from kindergarten level all the way through to secondary school. The fully-qualified staff are committed to delivering only the highest standards of education. ul. Stępińska 13, tel. 22 852 06 08, maturamiedzynarodowa.pl

JOY PRIMARY SCHOOL

Treating pupils with mutual respect but not at the expense of being demanding, the methods used are hard on the problem but soft on the person.

Taking into account what students think, feel, learn and want for themselves and their world, Joy Primary teaches important life skills as well as respect, care for others, problem solving and co-operation.

Here, children are challenged to discover their abilities and competences, while encouraged to explore personal strength and autonomy. ul. Syta 131A, tel. 722 305 333, sekretariat@joyprimaryschool.pl

WARSAW MONTESSORI SCHOOL

A leader in the field of Montessori education, well-trained teachers guide students to independent and successful learning with both English and bilingual classroom provided. Located just steps from Łazienki Park the school resides in vibrant surroundings near to museums, embassies and natural settings which provide students with

learning outside the classroom. ul.

Szwoleżerów 4 (grades 0-4), tel. 608 488 420, wmf.edu.pl

a 5,000 sq/m rooftop garden and some of the best kid’s facilities on Poland’s retail map. ul. Światowida

WARSAW MONTESSORI MIDDLE SCHOOL

KLIF HOUSE OF FASHION

Guided by trained specialists, students are responsible for managing their household, operating small businesses, caring for local flora and fauna as well as domesticated animals, taking charge of the younger children and much more.

“Adolescence Program” activities, integrated with academic studies, help students discover their inner strength to meet real life challenges. ul. Tatrzańska 5A (grades 5-8), tel.

604 137 826, wmf.edu.pl

WARSAW MONTESSORI HIGH SCHOOL

Warsaw Montessori High School aims to teach students the values which Maria Montessori outlined in her educational philosophy such as: responsibility for one’s own development, care for others, honesty, empathy, and service. The school continues to meet the principles of Maria Montessori through implementing the IB Diploma Program principles and practices.

Warsaw Montessori High School is an authorized IB World School for the Diploma Programme – code 061201. ul. Pytlasińskiego 13A, tel.

787 095 835, wmf.edu.pl

shopping experiences GALERIA PÓŁNOCNA

Białołęka’s first major shopping center includes stores such as Forever 21, Lagerfeld and Guess.

Part of the ‘fourth generation of shopping centers’, add-ons include

17, galeriapolnocna.pl

Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has a line-up of top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko. ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl

MYSIA 3

The line-up in this trendy department store includes Scandinavian fashion in Cos, a Leica camera shop, Asfalt vinyl store, Japanese fashion and accessories from Muji and sunglasses from Gloomy Sunday. ul. Mysia 3, mysia3.pl

WARS SAWA JUNIOR

Centrally located, perks of Wars Sawa Junior include Poland’s only Uniqlo and the largest adidas store in the country.

WESTFIELD ARKADIA

Not many Polish malls do it better.

Stores in this giant include Mango, Lacoste, Guess, Hilfiger and Peek & Cloppenburg. Al. Jana Pawła II 82, westfield.com

WESTFIELD MOKOTÓW

Stores inc. Calvin Klein, Hollister, Hugo Boss, New Balance, Royal Collection and Timberland. ul.

Wołoska 12, westfield.com

ZŁOTE TARASY

Seen from the outside as a giant glass bubble, selling points here include a Multikino cinema, a Calypso fitness club, and a branch of the Hard Rock Café. Stores include high-end brands at Van Graaf, Hugo Boss, Guess and Victoria’s Secret. Global foods can be found at Kuchnie Swiata. ul. Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl

warsawinsider.pl

67

THE MAGNIFICENT SEVEN!

Warsaw’s rich history and cultural significance has left it with no shortage of museums to visit. Offering a well-rounded view of the city’s past and present, these are the seven you just shouldn’t miss…

FRYDERYK CHOPIN MUSEUM

The 18th century Ostrogski Palace is the perfect foil for the ultra-modern content of this multi-sensory space.

The personal items are captivating (his death mask, gifts from his muse, etc.), but the big victory here is the museum’s ability to suck visitors right back into the times of Chopin through the use of interactive sights and sounds. ul. Okólnik 1, chopin.

museum

MUSEUM OF LIFE UNDER COMMUNISM

A deeply personal insight into the former system by allowing visitors to view what Communism meant to the everyday person. Here, rifle and rummage through a room mockedup to resemble a typical household apartment, watch propaganda films, peer inside a phone box, paw at vintage keep-fit gear or covet the ladies fashions of the time. Detailed in its captions, witty in its presentation and comprehensive in its content, it is a place where normal items such as aftershave bottles, postcards, clothing and crude household appliances are allowed to shine on a totem and tell their own story ul. Piękna 28/34, mzprl.pl

68

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2023

MUSEUM OF WARSAW

Reprised as a maze-like treasure filled trove glimmering with curiosities, thousands of objects have been gathered here to detail the story of Warsaw in a non-linear style that can at times feel overwhelming. Peculiar souvenirs, scale models, old postcards and recovered works of art all combine with a mass of trivia to leave visitors boggled with knowledge. The vertiginous views of the Rynek below are worth the admission alone. Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42, muzeumwarszawy.pl

NATIONAL MUSEUM

Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars.

That’s reason enough for many, but for others the museum’s ace card was revealed at the end of 2017 with the opening of the Gallery of Polish Design. Offering a full 360 view of Polish 20th century applied arts, it’s an aesthetic joy featuring everything from iconic PRL era wall units and tulip chairs to kitschy toys and gizmos. Al. Jerozolimskie 3,

mnw.art.pl

NEON MUSEUM

Playing a key role in the government’s attempts to fuse socialist ideology with consumerism, the campaign to ‘neon-ize’ Poland saw gloomy cities still bearing the scars of war boldly gleam once more under lights designed and produced by many of the leading artisans of the time. ul. Mińska 25

(Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org

POLIN

Composed of eight galleries, this architectural marvel covers different stages of local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day. Highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec synagogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical inter-war Jewish Warsaw street. ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl

THE WARSAW RISING MUSEUM

It’s not the A-list sights that make the biggest impact, rather the smaller, highly personal curios: a pair of wedding bands forged from bullets and a lucky cuddly mascot made from a German overcoat. ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl

4 9 km

Praga Zoo

10

6 ki aw

Powązki Cemetery

Andersa

St

7 Jewish Cemetery

6 Old Town

5

2

ska kow

szał Mar

Nati Stad

ska bow

Grzy

2

4 a zysk tokr Swie

1

Palace of Culture & Science

ta

Pros

9

11

skie

lim rozo

e Al. J

8

3 1

Łazienki Park

70

1

3

19 km

4 km

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2023

7

ional dium

MAP 5

shopping Vitkac experiences ul. Bracka 9, 1

Designer Outlet Warszawa ul. Puławska 42E, designeroutletwarszawa.pl

9

5

likusconceptstore.pl

Neon Museum ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org

10

6

Westfield Arkadia Al. Jana Pawła II 82, pl.westfield.com/arkadia

Museum of Warsaw Rynek Starego Miasta 28/42, muzeumwarszawy.pl

2

11

7

Elektrownia Powiśle ul. Dobra 42, elektrowniapowisle.com

Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl

POLIN ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl

museums

sport

3

Galeria Mokotów ul. Wołoska 12, galeriamokotow.com.pl 4

Galeria Północna ul. Światowida 17, galeriapolnocna.pl 5

Klif House of Fashion ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl 6

Koneser Pl. Konesera, koneser.eu

1

National Museum Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl.pl 2

The Warsaw Rising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl 3

Museum of Life Under Communism ul. Piękna 28/34, mzprl.pl

7

4

Plac Unii ul. Puławska 2, placunii.pl

Fryderyk Chopin Museum ul. Okólnik 1, chopin. museum

8

Mysia 3 ul. Mysia 3, mysia3.pl

1

Legia Stadium Łazienkowska 3, legia.com

live music

1

Chaton Warsaw Foksal 19, chatonwarsaw.com/en

warsawinsider.pl

71

Insta-worthy GO INDEPENDENT!

W

hile other countries use November 11th to commemorate the armistice, for Poland the end of WWI brought an end to the petitions and ushered in a new albeit shortlived golden era. But aside from just a celebration of freedom, Independence Day brings with it ample opportunity to boost your Insta! With the streets drowning under national flags, numerous parades will snake their way around town, with the most controversial being the Marsz Niepodległości.

Often criticised for its right-leaning brand of patri-

72

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2023

otism, the chance to snap the streets of Warsaw under a red fog nonetheless continues to prove irresistible to many – the best vantage points are found from above: for example, from the viewing deck of the Palace of Culture or one of the buildings that line Jerozolimskie. For something less fruity, state ceremonies will be held at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, whilst other events worthy of attention include the annual concert held by the Rising Museum.

Alternatively, the Independence Run that starts at 11.11 a.m. and goes down Jana Pawla II street is also highly photogenic – a point amplified by the sight of thousands of runners wearing red and white.

SHUTTERSTOCK

Although best-known for the occasionally volatile Independence March, November 11th also presents other opportunities to snap a picture to remember…

GREY WOLF

WARSAW 2023 NOWY ŚWIAT 55 | ALEJE JEROZOLIMSKIE 49

Hello Warsaw

Noli Studios is a collection of serviced studios for home-seekers and travellers looking for more.

Book your studio now www.nolistudios.pl

With comforts of home and the amenities of a hotel, we offer more room to live!