Warsaw Insider May 2019 #273

Poland’s Top Auction House The Finnish Houses Night Of Museums The Capital’s Original City Magazine Since 1996

MAY 2019

273 05/2019

INDEKS 334901 ISSN:1643-1723

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Jazdów

Exploring central Warsaw’s little rural corner

AQUAZZURA ALEXANDRE BIRMAN BALMAIN BEACH BUNNY BURBERRY BUSCEMI CASADEI CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN CULT GAIA FRANCESCO RUSSO GIANVITO ROSSI HERVE LEGER ISABEL MARANT KENZO KIINI MAISON MICHEL MANOLO BLAHNIK MARC JACOBS MARYSIA SWIM ONETEASPOON SFELF-PORTRAIT TOD’S TORY BURCH VICTORIA BECKHAM ZIMMERMANN

Moliera 2

tel.: 228277099, www.Moliera2.com

editorial INFRONT

Editor-in-chief Alex Webber

9 News

insider@warsawinsider.pl Art Director Kevin Demaria insider@warsawinsider.pl

FEATURES

Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com

0 Strolling 2 The Neighborhood: Jazdów 8 Behind The 2 Scenes: DESA Unicum

Contributors: Stuart Dowell Maria Mileńko Michał Miszkurka Ed Wight

EAT!

Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com

43 Review:

Ben Bagel 44 Review: Bangkok Soi 45 Review: Tran Tran

ey Account Manager K Agata Sicińska asicinska@valkea.com ey Account Manager K Joanna Chmielewska jchmielewska@valkea.com

DRINK!

Pogłos 62 Round Up:

Suburban Cafes

DO!

85 Review:

Living Dinosaurs at the Museum of Earth 88 Guide:

Night of the Museums 101 Essentials 102 Map 104 In Memoriam

A

nd so, here it is, the best month of all – aside from the mouthwatering promise of the upcoming summer, it’s hard to beat a month that kicks-off with a holiday. In Poland’s case, public holidays on May 1st and May 3rd merge together to become one extended break that sees the majority of the population vanish to other places. For those of us that remain, the capital stops dead to become a surreal, silent city living in suspended animation: it’s brilliant. But this is merely the town’s version of a power nap – waking up again, the rest of the month is a blast of activity that reaches its zenith with the Night of Museums. As always, we present the dos and don’ts at the tail end of the issue. Elsewhere, we explore the story behind the Finnish Houses, peek behind the scenes at the country’s top auction house, and prowl around the park that connects both the aforementioned.

Enjoy!

Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl on the cover What else but the Finnish Houses! See p. 20. (Illustration by

Michał Miszkurka)

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Warsaw Insider | MAY 2019

ey Account Manager K Karolina Zielonka kzielonka@valkea.com Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com Subscription 12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland.

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PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT

61 Review:

MAY 2019

BURBERRY CANADA GOOSE CASADEI CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN MEN FAY GIANVITO ROSSI KENZO MONCLER ONETEASPOON RALPH LAUREN TOD’S TORY BURCH VALENTINO BURBERRY CHILDREN DSQUARED2 KIDS KENZO KIDS MONCLER KIDS

A NIGHT TO REMEMBER...

2019

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Warsaw Insider | MAY 2019

The city’s top restaurateurs, chefs and F&B professionals converged on Syreni Śpiew on April 4th for the latest edition of the Insider’s prestigious Best of Warsaw food and drinks awards. Key winners on the night included Robert Trzópek’s Bez Gwiazdek who scooped gongs for Best Chef and Best Tasting menu, MOD (Best Casual), Ceviche Bar (Best Ethnic), Rozbrat 20

(Neo-Bistro), Restauracja Warszawska (Best Newcomer), and Zoni (Best Modern Polish). Despite since leaving Warsaw, Damian Wajda of Na Pole in Kraków was singled out by our jury as the Rising Star on account of his previous work at Bistro Pod Sowami.

Outside of the jury categories, other noteworthy winners included Senses, Raffles Europejski Warsaw, Atelier Amaro and Nolita. Ferment were named as the top F&B Group, whilst Agnieszka and Stanisław Szpilowscy (La Sirena, Dziurka Od Klucza and Arigator) were named

as Best Restaurateurs. For their outstanding contribution to the nation’s heritage, the Polish Vodka Museum were also called to stage. Among others, Signature were cited for Epicurean Excellence, Reginabar for Innovation and Sen for Club Concept. Now in its fifteenth year, the Insider’s Best of Warsaw awards have become firmly established as an unmissable event on the food and beverage calendar. The evening was also accompanied by the official unveiling of the Insider’s Best of Warsaw annual edition. warsawinsider.pl

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in the

NEWS EXPECTATION VS REALITY

KEVIN DEMARIA

Not for the first time, the Warsaw public has been left aggrieved after falling hook, line and sinker for architectural renderings that have flattered to deceive. In the latest instance, a collective gasp could be heard when workers removed scaffolding to reveal the first early glimpses of the rebuilt Rotunda in the center of the city.

Originally completed in 1966, the Rotunda hit headlines in 1979 when an explosion ripped through the structure leaving 49 people dead. While police blamed the blast on a gas leak, suspicious locals have often speculated that a bomb had been set off by embezzling bank officials looking to cover their tracks. Others theorized that the incident had been the doing of anticommunist saboteurs. The building was reopened later the same year, this time with the addition of tinted windows and a memorial to those that killed.

But despite growing to become one of the capital’s best-known landmarks, officials ignored a wave calls to protect this modernist showpiece, opting instead to knock it down in 2017 and replace it with a replica that envisioned a transparent, airy style far-removed from the lair-like darkness of the Rotunda’s former self.

However, rather than the ‘modern, urban lounge’ that had been promised, residents have been disappointed to discover a replacement that’s little more than a cut-price, clumsy version of the original.

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News NIGHTLIFE

Party On!

Weeks after details came to light over draconian plans to clamp down on the riverfront’s bars and clubs, a compromise appears to have been reached with City Hall. Originally, officials had stated only two clubs would be granted music licenses, and only then on the condition that sound would be limited to 70 decibels. A fierce backlash, however, has forced both sides to find a more reasonable middle ground with final negotiations agreeing on a 3 a.m. curfew on weekend parties, higher fines for noise pollution and increased police patrols. Recent years have seen the Wisła named as having one of Europe’s most dynamic summer riverfront scenes, a reputation it will now likely keep.

CIT Y

Market Forces The bottom is set to fall out of a famous market after City Hall appeared to confirm that Hala Banacha in Warsaw’s Ochota district will be levelled to make way for an upmarket residential development.

A petition protesting the real estate deal has garnered 7,000 signatures, with locals pointing out the vital community role played by Hala Banacha, not to mention it’s historic relevance: founded over one hundred years ago, it survived two world wars and has long been seen as a valuable source of budget goods by neighboring residents. Dividing public opinion, others have been quick to point out that Banacha has become little more than a grimy rat run of worthless tat.

Goblet Of Fire SMS From Heaven, a Catholic foundation that communicates biblical quotes to its 23,000 followers via text message, faced widespread condemnation on social media after news broke of a book-burning organized by three of its priests. Based in Northern Poland, members of the organization were pictured posed in prayer in front of blazing items such as Harry Potter books and a Hello Kitty umbrella; the objects, claimed the priests, promoted sorcery. While many were amused by the episode, others likened the scenes as reminiscent of Nazi Germany. The priests involved have since issued a public apology for any offence caused.

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FROM TOP: WIKICOMMONS, ED WIGHT, SHUTTERSTOCK

RELIGION

News

TR ANSPORT

Full Steam Ahead Kuryłowicz & Associates and Torprojekt have together released the first visualizations of their joint project to breathe new life in the rail line cutting through Warsaw. The project, set to be realized in coming years, foresees the introduction of a public square at Ochota station, a new roof over Wschodnia, the modernization of most stations and a rail connection between Śródmieście and Śródmieście WKD.

CIT Y

War Games

A boardgame co-created by the Warsaw Rising Museum has hit the shelves with the aim of helping younger generations connect to the past. Making its debut in April, Kurierzy challenges players to take the roles of Home Army couriers to smuggle top secret documents past ever-present Nazis.

Following in the footsteps of historical legends such as Jan Karski, players earn points by delivering reports from Warsaw to cities outside the German occupation zone. “The idea came about when we were working on the screenplay of the film Kurier,” said the museum’s director, Jan Ołdakowski, “and it felt important for us to tell young people about the history of WWII in a way that they could understand.”

CIT Y

Having surrendered their coveted Michelin star by moving premises at the start of the year, the latest edition of Michelin’s Main Cities of Europe guide saw Atelier Amaro make quick work of reclaiming it on account of the restaurant’s “ambitious and innovative dishes”. Elsewhere, Senses retained their one-star rating, whilst all five of Ferment Group’s restaurants (Kieliszki Na Hożej, Kieliszki Na Próżnej, Butchery & Wine, Brasserie Warszawska and Rozbrat 20) were recognized with Bib Gourmands. In all, 27 Warsaw restaurants were deemed worthy of inclusion in the tome, as were 25 eateries in Kraków.

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PRESS MATERIAL

Seeing Stars

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News ARCHITECTURE

For Hall It’s Worth

Work on a state-of-the-art concert hall in Praga gets the nod…

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PRESS MATERIAL

T

he mayor of Warsaw, Rafał Traszkowski, has given the go ahead for work to finally begin on Poland’s biggest concert hall – nearly ten years after its design was first finalized. Set in the Praga district, the Sinfonia Varsovia Centrum will house the city’s symphony orchestra, a recording studio, gardens, conference halls, educational facilities and residences for artists.

Designed by the Austrian studio Atelier Thomas Pucher, the complex will see the full refurbishment of five 19th century buildings once belonging to the Veterinary Institute, as well as the development of a stunning 1,850-seater concert hall with acoustics fitted by the Berlin office of Müller-BBM GmbH. “The idea of the hall,” said Pucher, “is to create the excellent acoustic conditions of a traditional concert hall whilst including the dense atmosphere and experience of a ring-shaped sports stadium.”

Spanning a total area of 37,800 sq/m, the world-class venue has faced repeated setbacks ever since Pucher’s design was first chosen in 2010 ahead of designs submitted by starchitects such as Zaha Hadid (who finished second in the competitive process). Originally suspended due to the economic slowdown, and then postponed after amendments were made to the spatial plan, the estimated cost – to be covered by City Hall – has since spiraled to zł. 632 million. Better late than never, Traszkowski’s green light has now opened the way for the launch of the tender process with the completion of Stage I of the project slated for April 2021.

Should all go to plan (stop laughing at the back), Stage II will be completed for November 2024.

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News CIT Y

The End Is Nigh!

It’s really going to happen – months after it was announced that McDonald’s would take over one of Warsaw’s most iconic examples of post-modernist architecture, May 4th will see Cepelia – the structure’s tenant for the previous 53 years – close their doors one final time. Opened in 1966, the so-called Cepelia Pavilion on the corner of Marszałkowska and Jerozolimskie was the flagship store of a folk art brand founded under Communism to ‘solidify the rural identity of this socialist nation’. Resembling an ‘urban lantern’, the glass-clad building represented the futuristic face of Warsaw, but in more recent years found itself bastardized by sheaths of tacky billboards.

Both McDonald’s and the city’s conservator have vowed to preserve the architectural values of the structure, but given the Rotunda debacle city activists remain wholly unconvinced.

ART

A giant bronze sculpture by Alina Szapocznikow, Poland’s most valuable female artist, sold at auction for zł. 1.7 million but found itself ‘placed under arrest’ following a dubious ownership claim issued by the Palace of Culture & Science – the same institution that had originally ordered the item, titled Friendship, be taken away to be scrapped. Installed in the main hall of PKiN in the 50s, it remained there until Poland’s political shift prompted the Palace’s director of the time to get rid of the Socialist Realist artwork. But rather than scrapping it, the boss in charge of the removal firm stored the piece in his garden for close on thirty years. During that time, Szapocznikow’s value as an artist soared to unforeseen levels. Auctioned at the end of March by DESA Unicum, the sale will now only officially be completed if the Prosecutor’s Office confirms that the sculpture left the Palace legally.

LOCAL

A Mammoth Ask? An online petition has been launched to mark the discovery of mammoth remains at the site of the Płocka metro station. Workers uncovered the bones – thought to be up to 150,000-years-old – in December, and though the remains will be placed on public display in the State Archaeological Museum, calls for another memorial to the prehistoric mammal have grown with the WAWstep Facebook page leading the campaign for a multimedia installation or basrelief to be unveiled once the underground stop is completed.

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PHOTOGRAPHS FROM TOP: PRESS MATERIAL, NAC, SHUTTERSTOCK

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News

IN MEMORIAM :

Ryszard Kaja

The Insider remembers one of Poland’s best-loved artists…

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PRESS MATERIAL

A

cknowledged as one of the most influential Polish artists of recent times, news in April of the premature death of Ryszard Kaja was met with widespread shock around the country. Born in Poznań in 1962 to parents Stefania, a painter, and Zbigniew, one of the founding fathers of Poland’s ‘school of poster’, Kaja worked as an award-winning theater set designer for much of his life before opting to transfer his talents to poster art in 2000.

His subsequent series of ‘tourist posters’ dedicated to showcasing the lesser-known and often prosaic wonders of Poland won him critical acclaim, and in the process resuscitated an artform that had started to lack direction. Simply titled ‘Polska’, the 120-strong series struck a chord for its depiction of the banal and mundane. “I like places that small of honesty,” Kaja told the Insider earlier this year, “hence my fascination with kitsch. I’m fascinated by everyday life, the ordinary, the trivial, and the things that don’t shine. I like ‘other’ worlds, and it’s this ‘other’ Poland that really fascinates and intrigues me.”

Warm, sentimental and deliciously accented by their retro aspects, the posters were defined by what Kaja called ‘unusual normality’, and came to capture the very essence of the nation. Just fifty-seven years of age at the time of his passing, his death is an immeasurable loss to the domestic art scene.

M AT E U S Z _ P O T E M P S K I

JAZDÓW THE FINNISH HOUSES

THROUGH THICK AND FINN

The incredible story of Warsaw’s ‘Finnish Houses’…

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Photograph by Mateusz Potempski

warsawinsider.pl

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JAZDÓW THE FINNISH HOUSES

i

t is a scene of pastoral bliss in its purest form: birds chirrup and squirrels dart from thick vegetation. Set amid tight, tree-lined tracks, small wooden cabins appear from the green, and from round the corner comes the donk, donk, donk of someone chopping wood. Being here, one feels at one with the world and the nature in it.

Here, however, is not some isolated village in the wooded depths of Poland, here is Osiedle Jazdów, a remarkable micro-community in the center of the city, with the only clue to the location being the distant, low rumble of Trasa Łazienkowska.

Tangled in the story of the post-war rebirth of Warsaw, this enchanting enclave began life with the decision to rebuild the town that the Nazis had left as a smoking sea of rubble. It was a brave move. With total destruction approaching 84%, there were many that argued that the capital should simply be shunted elsewhere. Warsaw, they said, could be left as it is as the ultimate memorial to the tragedy of war. Given the scale of the task, there was a logic to this thinking, but it didn’t account for the indomitable desire to rebuild from scratch. The city would live again!

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PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Of the immediate problems was finding the architects and engineers involved in this process somewhere to live: the answer was Osiedle Jazdów. Making full use of easy-to-assemble cabins confiscated from Finland by Stalin as reparations, 95 of these were built in the area of Jazdów. In July, 1945, the first 30 tenants moved in, and on August 1st, the development was officially opened – simultaneously coinciding with the only time the Communist authorities formally allowed anniversary commemorations for the Warsaw Uprising to be held, the launch of Osiedle Jazdów was seen as an optimistic sign of good times ahead.

Defined by their quaint wooden style and black tar roofs, these 54 sq/m units quickly became home to a thriving self-contained world. There was an artesian well, a shrine, kindergarten, grocery outlet and kiosk. In winter, an ice rink and toboggan run added to the sense of a tranquil idyll of utopian joy. All the time, though, these ‘Finnish Houses’ were meant just as a stop-gap solution for a city on the mend.

Surviving their initial 1955 expiry date, many nonetheless found themselves dismantled as the years rolled forward: the construction of Trasa Łazienkowska and, later, the French Embassy, saw dozens torn down. Yet despite the encroachment of the modern world, the community continued to boom. Whilst several of the original architects moved on to pastures new, they were replaced in the 60s by a wave of artists, actors, writers and creatives. In a city shackled by concrete and Communism, this extraordinary area became a hub of free-thought and Bohemian living.

As such, it seemed natural that it was to here that fans of the Beatles headed to mark the first anniversary of John Lennon’s death. Smoking weed and singing Giving Peace A Chance (in hindsight, ironic with the knowledge that the introduction of Martial Law lay just days away), they finished off by hanging an impromptu sign on a street that had been hitherto untitled. It read: ul. Lennona.

Ten years on, and with Poland now in the throes of its post-Communist transformation, the name was given permanence by officials and > > > warsawinsider.pl

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JAZDÓW THE FINNISH HOUSES

added to the map. Could this be taken as a sign that local government had understood the value of the area? Of course not. More houses were felled in the new millennium to make way for the German Embassy, and by 2011 a nadir had been reached. Osiedle Jazdów, it was announced, would soon go forever.

Uproar followed, with disaster only averted when the intervention of the Finnish Ambassador helped lend a voice to those protesting the decision. With outright demolition avoided, cultural life bloomed once more with the Otwarty Jazdów project finding homes for a variety of NGOs inside vacated properties. But this hasn’t made for an entirely happy ending.

“When the new Mayor was standing for election he pledged that the future of this area was one of his priorities,” says Wojciech Matejko, one of the volunteers working at Otwarty Jazdów. “But since he was elected, we’ve heard nothing – not a single phone call. There were meant to be monthly meetings with the municipality, an agenda, a road map outlining what needed to happen. Instead, we’ve just been met with silence.”

This, says, Wojciech, is not a welcome development.

“People assume that just because Osiedle Jazdów was saved from destruction that everything is fine,” he states, “but

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that’s not the case. To function, we need help – these houses desperately need renovation. We’re not asking for a lot, and we’re not even asking for a block investment. After all, the area is unique because of its gradual and organic evolution, so we don’t want a big project or anything like that, just a step-by-step program to help it succeed.”

Prosaic needs such as central heating figure highly on the wish list, but so too does a desire to open the buildings that stand empty. “It’s a special area,” says Wojciech, “and it needs special treatment.”

How truthful this appraisal is becomes clear wandering amid the little alleys that cut between the chalets. Unperturbed by the rustic challenges and high-running costs associated with living here, eight families remain resident, with another 13 cabins turned over for the use of NGOs and other such ventures. These include an Embassy for Traditional Music, a food sharing point, a co-working space and a Solatorium specializing in light therapy. Perhaps most high profile of all is an urban beekeeping foundation housing 20,000 bees in four hives. Illegal when it first opened, its subsequent success played a leading role in changing laws connected to this pursuit.

In this regard, Jazdów has become more than just a pretty face and evolved into a pioneering venture at the forefront of various social, eco and cultural initiatives. Last year alone saw 1,500 events attended by 35,000 visitors. “Right now I feel tired and frustrated,” says Wojciech.

“Back when the storm surrounding the fate of Jazdów first erupted we could have closed this area off and declared it to be the Polish version of Christiana in Copenhagen – but that’s not how we are here. We’d be more than happy to shake hands with politicians if it helped, but I don’t think that they even understand the political capital an area like this could have. It’s not about young, trendy creatives, it’s a place that is genuinely for everyone – young infants, people with learning difficulties, urban gardeners, etc.

Personally-speaking, I just want to see it reach its full potential: that’s the goal.”

warsawinsider.pl

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PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

JAZDÓW PARK UJAZDOWSKI

Park Life

Forming a unique trident of attractions, consider elegant Park Ujazdowski as the perfect compliment to the Finnish Houses and the DESA auction house.

Formerly home to a small

village, it later served as a military parade ground (the Field of Mars) towards the end of the last King of Poland’s reign. Once Warsaw fell under Tsarist rule, it switched to a more playful role and became home to an annual summer fair.

What you see now, however, is the product of a late 19th century landscape project conducted by Franciszek Szanior, the Chief Municipal Gardener of the era.

His efforts remain as spellbinding now as they must have been back then. Enter from Piękna and you so seen why. Having been greeted by a monument of a saluting gladiator, lose yourself amid gently curving paths that take you past nooks and alcoves filled with oddities: a statue called Ewa (designed by Edward Witting, a former student of Rodin), a rock pool, and a teeny, weeny bridge embellished with lovelocks – a humpbacked charmer, it was constructed by the same Brit that built the town’s sewer system.

Perfectly clipped and landscaped, this jewel of a park swarms with decorative elements and quaint little nooks: a nude Perseus standing triumphantly on the head of a Medusa; a scenic pergola; and a stout, green cabin containing one of only two such weighing scales remaining in the world.

Displayed at the 1900 Paris World Fair, famous users include Charles De Gaulle.

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JAZDÓW DESA UNICUM

Hammer Time!

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

The Insider steps behind the scenes of Poland’s premier auction house…

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F

ast-paced and laced with a heavy hint of special, the heady thrills of an auction have long been celebrated on screen in films such as The First Wives Club and North By Northwest. But beyond the glam and the glitter, the twists and the turns, auction houses by their very nature are hives of intrigue and eccentric curiosities.

A case in point? DESA Unicum, an auction house that has come far since humble beginnings. Hosting 70 auctions last year, and raising over zł. 115 million through the sale of 6,190 objects, it has steamrollered the competition to become the bona fide No. 1 when it comes to domestic auctions, accounting for 45.8% of the Polish art market in 2018. Further, it’s caused ripples abroad, with ArtNet, the world’s most prestigious art market website, positioning it eleventh in their rankings of European auction houses.

“Given the history of established leaders such as Sotheby’s and Christie’s that’s a remarkable achievement,” says DESA’s Tomasz Dziewicki, “and one that makes us the top auction house in the Central Eastern European region.”

But this meteoric ascent aside, DESA is notable for other factors, not least the initial ‘ooh’ factor that strikes all who pass. Yeah, it doesn’t look bad at all. Completed in 2017 on the fringes of ‘The Finnish Houses’, its design is such as to seamlessly slot into the abundance of greenery all around: half submerged into the ground, visitors pass over a footbridge to enter an elongated steel and glass structure capped with grass. Custombuilt with auctions in mind, it’s a place that feels like its landed from the future.

And here be the clincher. If top auction houses are generally looked upon as out-ofbounds to all of us of non-Rolls Royce status, then DESA is positively inviting. More than for prospective bidders, it draws passers by with its bookshop and, beyond that, a gallery space featuring the items and objects that will soon go under the hammer. In essence, it’s an experience that’s open to all artistically-minded curiosity seekers.

But what lies ahead? That’s a dynamically changing line-up reflective of DESA’s three core specialties: applied arts, contemporary art, and ‘old masters’. In recent times, that’s included The Killing of Wapowski by Jan Matejko (sold for a Polish record of zł. 3,683,000), and Alina Szapocznikow’s controversial Socialist Realist Przyjaźń sculpture, sold for zł. 1.7 million but currently subject to a shaky ownership bid from the institution that initially got rid of it for scrap. As for ‘the now’,

“

I f Poland’s top contemporary artists designed a Bond villain’s lair this would be the result

visit before May 9th to view, among others, works from the École de Paris. The star of this? Apart from oil paintings by the likes of Tadeusz Makowski and Tamara Lempicka, the biggie is Khera – Kiki de Montmartre by Mojżesz Kisling (all yours for a guide price between zł. 800,000 – 1.2 million).

“The main challenge,” says Tomasz Dziewicki, “is finding the object that makes everyone go ‘wow’. Maybe it’s been hidden away for years and only just been recently rediscovered, or maybe it’s an object that was previously thought lost and has never been on display before…”

As the Head of the 19th Century and Modern Art Department, Dziewicki, it transpires, is well-qualified to lead the Insider behind the scenes and to the levels usually off-limits to members of the public. “You need to know >>> what you want to put up for auction,” he warsawinsider.pl

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JAZDÓW DESA UNICUM

“

says of his profession, “and doing so means thorough research using books and online material before you can compile a list of objects.” Some will naturally fall into the hands of DESA, but others are sought out. “Usually,” he continues, “it’s necessary to talk to collectors to convince them that a piece owned by them should be placed on auction which, in itself, can be a challenge – often, some works belonging to these collectors have been the result of a lifelong hunt, so persuading them to part with something of such personal value requires a fair amount of psychology: you need to demonstrate just how you can promote the object or the artist.”

As we talk, we enter a room in which a mute, white-gloved handler presents individual items to a panel of valuation experts with notepads in hand. In this unseen, underground world, we explore further, arriving to a hall stacked heavily with enigmatic works, bulging boxes and carefully positioned art.

“How many objects do we have in here,” asks Dziewicki rhetorically, “probably approaching 15,000.” Aladdin’s Cave, it turns out, isn’t fictitious.

Careful not to clatter into the art that pokes out from each and every corner, we retreat to the office level, a sleek place

ustom-built with auctions in C mind, it’s a place that feels like its landed from the future festooned with giant headless figures by sculptress Magdalena Abakanowicz. They are everywhere we look, including the conference room. Described by Dziewicki as ‘the heart of the company’, it’s inside here that the big decisions are made, in a super-lux, windowless chamber that you suspect would survive a nuclear blast. If Poland’s top contemporary artists designed a Bond villain’s lair this would be the result. It’s captivating.

Taking a seat, Dziewicki continues: “We’ve come a long way in a short time. Our art market was only born in 1989, and right now we’re seeing 15% year-on-year growth when it comes to prices. Definitely, it’s a market being driven by wealthy collectors looking to decorate their living spaces or offices with high-quality, precious object, and whilst we’re still a relatively small market compared to places like France or Germany, the prospects for Poland are very good indeed.”

Sat deep within the confines of this extraordinary place, it’s hard to disagree.

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DESA Unicum ul. Piękna 1A, desa.pl

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BUSINESS PROFILE

Friends in HIGH PLACES Monika Nosek of Citigold reveals all behind the bank’s private banking strategy…

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B R O U G H T T O Y O U BY C I T I H A N D LO W Y

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What’s the thinking behind having three Citigold branches in Warsaw?

Warsaw isn’t just Poland’s business center but also where the highest amount of private property is concentrated. GDP per capita in the Mazovia region is weighted by purchasing power and, for several years, has exceeded 100% of the EU average.

According to KPMG’s 2018 report, over 50,000 ‘rich’ people live in the capital and the surrounding area earning a gross income in excess of zł. 20,000 per month. Furthermore, there are over 12,000 ‘very wealthy’ people with a gross income above zł. 50,000 per month. Citi’s strategy is based on a few pillars, with importance awarded to the development of the banking offer for affluent clients and the digitization of banking. As such, the effects of this strategy have been visible in our branch structure for several years. In Warsaw, we have two main branches dedicated to such clients: Citigold and Citigold Private Client. Our headquarters are found in Pałac Jabłonowskich on ul. Senatorska and the Q22 tower.

when it comes to education. We are one of the first banks in Poland to offer a ‘property succession’ service to help clients transfer their assets smoothly.

In addition, we have the widest range of investment instruments on the market whereby customers have access to every asset class in several global currencies, an individual client supervisor and a group of dedicated experts as well. We are also distinguished for the customer support we provide when it comes to setting up accounts outside the country – whether it be in the US or London – something that is beneficial for customers looking to diversify their assets. There are also lifestyle benefits.

With a World Elite Debit Mastercard those that use Citigold Private Client have unlimited access to more than 1,300 executive lounges across the world. There’s also a dedicated concierge service, the chance to buy concert tickets and attractive discounts from several hundred Citi partners. We also regularly host golf tournaments, conferences and other such interesting events.

What is the bank’s strategy when it comes to attracting wealthy clients?

The main distinguishing feature of Citigold Private Client lies in offering global financial solutions, such as personal investment consulting and brokerage services. Citi Handlowy, a bank operating in Citi’s global network, provides the opportunity to take advantage of the comprehensive investment offer in various currencies and markets. We are more than an ATM – we play a part in a client's business and everyday life. A relationship with a bank often turns out to be a multi-generational relationship, so we take care of every aspect of the most demanding customers lives – and their families as well. We make sure that they have systematized finances, arrange long-term financial plans based on individual guidelines from clients, and try to ensure that they have retirement security and that their children have secured finance

In 2019, Citi Handlowy plans to introduce services for UHNW clients (Ultra High-Net-Worth - 25 million dollars) – is there really a place in Poland for such an offer?

There are still relatively few people in the UHNW category in Poland. At the moment the research shows there are 60,000 people in Poland whose net wealth exceeds $1 million. Nevertheless, this number is growing rapidly by about 7 percent per year.

What types of advisory do you offer across the board?

We have a rather wide range of consultancy services, both in terms of investment services and in our non-banking services package. Citigold clients can expect professional support and advice regarding the purchase of open and closed investment funds, structured bonds, treasury bonds and individual recommendations when it comes to

espite the D 25-year history of this sector, private banking remains an enigmatic concept and it should be remembered that at this level we cease being just a bank for the client.

companies on foreign markets such as the European and US stock exchanges.

Soon we will also introduce a consultancy service strictly tailored for the bond market.

It’s worth emphasizing that we view each client’s situation through a long-term lens. For example, in terms of property succession, we assess the state of their assets, look into legal and liquidity risks, conduct life insurance audits, and create a smooth plan for transferring the assets or company.

When people think of private banking they tend to think of clients with a suitcase of money being invited to step into a private room…

Private banking is still a young branch of banking and we’re proud that Citi Handlowy were the first banking institution in Poland to offer private banking services. Despite the 25-year history of this sector, private banking remains an enigmatic concept and it should be remembered that at this level we cease being just a bank for the client. We’re more of a business partner and an individual carer.

Ultimately, we take care of all financial matters, secure the future of a client's children, create a long-term financial plan for the whole family and look after life savings. When working with a warsawinsider.pl

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BUSINESS PROFILE

private banking client, we focus on providing an individual approach. Private banking customers are very demanding, both in terms of products and the level of service they expect, which is why our advisors are specialists with many years of experience working in this field.

How important is technology to these clients?

Prosperous clients often expect greater freedom and liquidity when it comes to their relations with the bank. As a result, they expect technology that allows the bank to meet their high quality requirements. Citi provides innovative technological solutions and are the only bank in Poland to offer asset planning,

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client portfolio reviews, purchase processes, financial instrument sales and investment recommendations via iPad. Our advisers carry out these various action using our dedicated CitiPlanner application. Through that, we make ourselves available to clients virtually anywhere on Earth. Currently, about 90% of our investment transactions are carried out using this application, and advisors can meet with the client in his office, home or wherever else they wish to convene. Customers can also use our intuitive and convenient mobile and internet banking service, which allows, for example, to change identity documents without leaving home as well as reviewing their investment portfolio at any given time.

What does the bank get out of this all?

Servicing such wealthy clients is obviously a privilege for a bank and we are pleased that our Citigold and Citigold Private Client clients have a longterm relationship with us. We should remember that Citi Handlowy in Poland also services large companies and international corporations. As such, for years we've had the best credit cards in Poland, something that’s affirmed by the numerous awards we’ve received – this year, our black credit card, Citibank World Elite Mastercard Ultime, was recognized as one of the most prestigious credit cards in Poland, whilst the private banking offer received the maximum number of stars in the Forbes ranking – for the fourth year in a row!

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FEELING GREEN! T

horoughly unique to Żoliborz – and Warsaw – at Ogród nr 8 we specialize in beautiful flowers, plants and artisanal objects. Going beyond the boundaries of the norm, we work ‘close to nature’, mixing traditional floristry with modern techniques with extraordinary results and surprising solutions.

Providing a quality service is our priority, and our plants represent the very best of the best. Whether its readymade bouquets, plants for the home or office, a unique gift or a memorable arrangement for a wedding, party or work event, count on us to realize your dreams and enchant you with our stunning compositions.

Ogród nr 8 ul. Rydygiera 8, tel. 881 404 480, kwiaciarnia@ogrodnr8.pl

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Dining With A View

The Amber Room Restaurant is located inside the historic Sobański Palace on the Royal Route running down Warsaw’s elegant Aleje Ujaz­dowskie. The restaurant specializes in fine dining and modern European cuisine whilst also featuring Polish dishes. Famed for using the high­ est quality seasonal ingredients, producing its own pastries as well offering an exhaustive collection of unique wines, the restaurant was recognized in the 2018 edition of the Michelin Guide with four couverts. Further, last year saw the restaurant receive Wine Spectator’s exclusive Award of Excellence and included in the La Liste rankings of the world’s best restaurants - see why while basking under the sunshine on the elegant terrace.

Amber Room Restaurant Aleje Ujazdowskie 13, tel. +48 600 800 999 recepcja@amberroom.pl, www.amber-room.pl

NEWSFLASH! Coinciding with Night of the Museums (for deets on that, see our Do

section), the square in front of PKiN’s main entrance will be transformed through the day (and night!) of May 18th to resemble a sea of food trucks. Operating till 3 a.m., they’ll stick around for the Sunday as well, albeit working towards a more sensible finish time of 8 p.m.

For news on participating vans, search for Żarcie Na Kółkach on Facebook.

In The Soup!

Soup Culture promotes healthy and ethical fast-food in a city that often provides low-rate solutions to the high velocity lifestyle led by many.

Designed as an antidote to these sub-par alternatives, Soup Culture serve vegan and vegetarian soups inside edible mugs. Prepped in a maximum of six minutes, dishes on our short, ever-changing menu are tailor-made for on-site and take-out consumption. We believe that quick mealtime fixe can be healthy, at harmony with the environment and, of course, completely delicious.

Soup Culture Al. Jana Pawła II 38 & ul. Pańska 67 www.soupculture.pl hello@soupculture.pl

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WHAM, BAM, SUPER KRAM

Warsaw’s favorite artisanal grocery stop has a spring in its step…

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ocated on the grounds of the Institute of Precision Mechanics in the heart of post-industrial Żoliborz, KRAM is the realization of owner Sandra Eliasz’s long-term vision. Dedicated to the culture of food, her idea for KRAM was to build awareness of where our food is produced, what we cook and how we eat. Opened last year inside the Defabryka complex, the launch of KRAM marks the first step on this journey.

More than a store, KRAM is a place of discovery, a place in which to find inspiration, explore new flavors and meet other food fanatics. Offering so much more than the regular grocery store experience, visit us at KRAM to enjoy life as it’s meant to be: full of fine tastes, real food and lively conversation.

Having spent the last year connecting with local producers and manufacturers, Sandra and her team have amassed a unique selection of items to please the fussiest of foodies. But this year, we’ve sought to reach a higher level and to truly inspire all those who visit. Starting in mid-May, in line with the Films For Food initiative, KRAM will organize culinary film screenings, with each attended by a special guest. And, it goes without saying, each will also have a host of KRAM-made snacks to look forward to. Beyond these screenings, find a number of meetings and workshops also lined up for the forthcoming months.

KRAM Native Ingredients ul. Duchnicka 3, fb.com/kram.nativeingredients

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SCOOP OF THE MONTH!

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or the best ice cream in Warsaw, look no further than the 100% natural tastes of Smaki Warszawy. Rivaling the top Italian ice cream parlors, our first rate offer includes Sicilian pistachio, and creamy, vegan Belgian chocolate with raspberries.

And don’t dare miss our latest batch of mango, passionfruit, rhubarb and salted caramel – all made without chemicals or additives.

Smaki Warszawy ul. Felińskiego 52

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A

TOP TIPS FOR CRAFT SIPS & ASIAN TASTES! Just how do you pair Asian cuisine with beer? The answers lie below!

s statistics show, beer is the third most popular beverage in the world, right after water and tea. Among all the beer-drinking countries, Poland proudly ranks fifth. That being said, many Poles have little to no idea about pairing beer with food.

Is it really that hard? Absolutely not – and girls from the Hoplala craft brewery are proving it!

There are not many flavors that clash with beer. Similarly, there are not so many guidelines when it comes to pairing your food of choice with a proper style of beer.

In fact, there are only two simple rules – choose a beer that either compliments or contrasts with your meal.

In the case of the latter, pick a dish that has a strong, dominant character. All delicious, spicy Asian flavors stand up to the mild and delicate taste of wheat beer such as, for instance, Przyjaźń czy Kochanie (Friend or Darling) – a neat composition of wheat, hops and strawberry puree with the aromatic touch of guinea pepper.

The refreshing flavor of light lagers, such as Perfekcyjna Pani Domu (Perfect Housewife), goes perfectly with richlyflavored dishes, for example, ramen or curry.

Elsewhere, subtly bitter pale ales like, for instance, Piękna Mądra Zdolna (Pretty Smart Talented), create an appetizing composition with beef without ever overpowering it.

Then there’s the tropical aroma of Pożyczony Narzeczony (Perfect Match - New England IPA), which creates an interesting contrast to sweet and sour Asian sauces. To give this combination even more spin, pair your food with exotic fruit IPAs such as PoraNaNas (Pineapple IPA) or Wolna czy Zajęta (Single or Taken - Grapefruit IPA).

Complementing flavors is also a simple way to make a great food and beer pairing.

Match light-tasting fish or seafood with delicate nature of a wheat beer like PSZEkulturalna (Citra Weizen) or PSZEcudnej Urody (Orange Witbier). Similarly, pair richlyflavored food with more complex styles of beer. Niezła Sztuka (American Saison) enhances the taste of intensely seasoned poultry, while the full-flavored Czarny Protest (Raspberry Chocolate Oatmeal Stout) impeccably pairs with mouth-watering Asian desserts, such as mochi or fried sesame balls.

To create the best beer and food pairings possible, you need to first understand the flavor profiles in beer. Once you achieve that, you will be able to make jaw-dropping compositions that will undoubtedly surprise your friends – cheers!

For more on the acclaimed Hoplala brewery, check: hoplala.pl

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This month’s dishes include: Trout with baby cabbage Lamb kebab Leg of lamb with thyme Grilled asparagus, marinated in herbs Chicken with rhubarb Roast beef in herbs

SMOKIN’ HOT!

Zielony Niedźwiedź reveal their secret summer weapon for the season ahead!

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tilizing the kind of Mangal grill so popular in the Middle East and Caucuses, our staff learned the secrets of the grill from Armenian chef Pavel Portoyan, a well-regarded expert in this ancient art. Though specializing in lamb, we also prepare beef, pork and vegetables over the fire.

Zielony Niedźwiedź ul. Smolna 4, kafezn.pl

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UKRAINIAN PLEASURES

Housed in the upmarket Villa Felix, visit Kanapa for an elegant taste of Ukraine…

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aunched in Kiev in 2013 by Dmytro Borisov, Kanapa was the first restaurant in Ukraine focused on presenting ‘new Ukrainian cuisine’. Collaborating with local farmers and harnessing modern and molecular techniques, it quickly became one of the most important restaurants in the city, a position it’s held ever since. Awarded the title of best Ukrainian restaurant by numerous titles and organizations (e.g. the National SALT Restaurant Awards and the Kyiv Tourism Awards), our standing in the gastronomic order is reflected by head chef Yaroslav Artyukh’s numerous appearances in the regional finals of the San Pellegrino Young Chef competition.

Attracting over 500 guests daily, Kanapa has become one a phenomenon in Ukraine, strengthening Dmytro Borisov’s reputation as one of the most innovative and socially responsible businessmen in the country.

With over 30 restaurants now operating under his patronage and guidance, one of the latest is the Warsaw branch of Kanapa. Two years in the making, the Polish outpost features an enviable location inside a plush mansion and a verdant garden that comes into its element once temperatures rise.

With chef Dmitry Babak leading the kitchen, expect a menu high on seasonal, local produce and recipes that combine culinary traditions with contemporary know-how. For starters, guests shouldn’t miss the chicken liver pate with carrot mousse (zł. 19), rabbit in aspic with horseradish and mustard (zł. 19), or the foie gras in white wine (zł. 29). For something a little more classic, oysters are priced at zł. 9 each whilst various strains of caviar are served alongside out signature homemade bread and butter: these include sturgeon (zł. 149) and pike (zł. 25).

Of our bestsellers, no-one regrets ordering red borscht with pork ravioli, smoked pear and prunes (zł. 29), while among the fish dishes prepare to be impressed by grilled sturgeon served with green peas puree and cheese sauce (zł. 52), and fried octopus with sautéed potatoes and smoked pepper sauce (zł. 56). We would also highly recommend the duck breast with cherry-wine sauce and carrot puree (zł. 44) or the famous Chicken Kyiv with mashed potatoes and truffle oil (zł. 42).

Dumplings in Ukraine are called warenyki and are thought to have arrived to both Poland and Ukraine via the Ottoman Empire – hundreds of versions have been created since, but few are more special than the ones we serve at Kanapa.

Check, for instance, fillings such as rabbit and hazelnut or potatoes and foie gras. Pride of place, however, goes to the black dumplings with zander and smoked bacon (zł. 29). With the sun shining, enjoy such delicacies in the lush confines of our spectacular garden: it’s ideal for meetings with friends and family, business dinners or celebratory parties.

Kanapa ul. Narbutta 10, tel. 22 400 88 33 borysov.com.ua/pl/kanapa-warszawa fb.com/kanapa.restauracja

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ENJOY THE SLOW LIFE

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ay brings with it the latest edition of Slow Weekend, the largest gathering of Polish creatives working under the hashtag of #slow. A showcase of 350 carefully selected brands focused on fashion and accessories, jewelry and design, the event will – for the first time in Poland – also be backed-up by street food stalls and music. Taking place on May 18th, Pl. Konesera will fill with the best local food trucks, with their tastes compliment by upcoming ‘street’ bands from all across the country. More than just music and food, this event is a unique phenomenon that combines art with the philosophy of slowing the pace of life to promote a familial, tight-knit atmosphere where all become one.

Slow Weekend Pl. Konesera 2, slowweekend.pl

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eat!

PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

WHOLE-HEARTED

For reasons that can only be attributed to a collective bout of madness, Warsaw has traditionally turned its back on the sacred bagel – the city’s excuse, however, can’t really be faulted: let’s face it, what we’ve had so far just hasn’t been that good. But excuses aren’t going to cut it anymore, not with the arrival of Ben Bagel. Harking to the area’s not-too-distant hipster past, discover a Williamsburg-style hole-in-the-wall that’s all parquet, brickwork and flashes of groovy neon. It looks cool, and you’re going to linger longer for all-natural, non-dairy piping hot bagels stuffed with unlikely exotica such as kimchi, bacon, cheddar, roasted onions and aioli sauce. It’s sticky, messy and flawlessly brilliant. NYC has never felt closer.

Ben Bagel ul. Mokotowska 8

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EAT! review

Bangkok Soi Al. Jana Pawła II 50

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In this whir of

THAI-RIFFIC A new Thai in town strikes the right spot…

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ad times we live in: if once the opening of a Thai restaurant caused Warsaw to pause and celebrate, today the city’s become inured to the neverending rush of eateries offering unconvincing fare that’s over-priced and under-spiced. The trick to getting away with it? Stick some Thai chefs in the kitchen and, presto, the public will keep coming.

In this, Bangkok Soi is different. For starters, it’s a distinct departure from the contrived and polished atmosphere of many of the city’s newer Thais. If anything, it’s as back-to-basics as you

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could wish for: in terms of interior design, find no more than some Chang beer pennants, Muangthong United football scarves, and film posters with unidentifiable titles.

Dispensing of formality entirely, diners order at the counter from a menu that’s little more than a crumpled sheet of paper before retiring to sit on flimsy furniture in temperatures that approach greenhouse. Strangely, however, it feels pleasingly honest, especially compared to the sceney fakery of the competition.

Then, there’s the kitchen. There’s not a single Thai chef in there, a point that goes a long way to proving that authenticity rests not on the nationalities out the back but rather the fundamental philosophy of the place in question.

Here, that’s meant a full-on effort to replicate the street tastes of Bangkok with no quarter given – and in this, they’ve succeeded. Vigorous spicing is evidenced in the snappy red curry, whilst the commitment to sourcing hard-to-find ingredients is affirmed by the green papaya in the Som Tam salad.

Though limited in size, the menu dances with tastes that take diners though previously uncharted waters: silky yellow curry; fiery bacon with Thai basil; and refreshing Tom Sap soup loaded with lemongrass, galangal, kaffir lime leaves and tomato. In this whir of full-throated flavors, it’s easy to become hopelessly lost in waves of bliss.

Rarely, if ever, has Thai food tasted quite like this in Poland. Sophisticated?

No way. Authentic? Most definitely.

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

full-throated flavors, it’s easy to become hopelessly lost in waves of bliss

Tran Tran ul. Wilcza 20, fb.com/restauracjatrantran

VIET-NOM Vietnamese cuisine continues to crest…

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o longer something treated with suspicion and disdain (Warsaw veterans still wince at the memory of the budget food cabins that were once so endemic around town), few cuisines have been rehabilitated in quite the same way as Vietnamese. And along with the raised and recovered profile has come a raft of restaurants that are doing it right. Tran Tran, for instance.

It looks promising enough, with dark woods and images of paddy fields mixing with the reassuring clatter of an open kitchen, and so it proves with the arrival of the food: light but lively spring rolls; steaming bowls of pho; and thinly sliced strips of pretty pink beef. Then, just to really grab you by the nuts and prod you into reaction, beef served in a velvety ooze of mango. As for dessert, deep-fried banana glazed in honey and served with mango chutney is all that’s expected: sweet and sinful.

These are dishes of simple clarity and vibrant freshness: you want more and, well, why the hell not. There’s a comforting goodness to it all, one that leaves most who visit pledging to return. Faithful in its presentation of Vietnam, it’s a very solid addition to this maturing ethnic category.

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These are dishes of simple clarity and vibrant freshness:

you want more and, well, why the hell not

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EAT! Listings By in large, you can expect to pay between zł. 20-35 for starters, and zł.

35-70 for mains. Expect those prices to double in the case of the city’s fine dining venues. Those wishing to cut costs should seek out the weekday business lunch deals now offered by most restaurants. When tipping, 10-20% is considered polite though be aware of automatic service charges in some venues.

american 46 bakeries 46 balkan 46 chinese 46 comfort & street food 48 desserts 50 fine dining 50 french 52 georgian 52 greek & turkish 52 hungarian 53 indian 53 indonesian 54 international 54 italian 58 japanese 59 korean 60 latin & spanish 60 mexican 61 middle eastern 61 polish 62 scandinavian 68 seafood 68 specialty food shops 68 steak houses 69 thai 69 ukrainian 69 vegan & wholefood 70 vietnamese 70

american Champions Sports Bar The heavy décor brings to mind the trans-Atlantic sports bars of the 90s, with glinting trophies, whirring machines, clacking pool tables and a cacophony of commentaries. Hell, there’s even a boxing ring. But you can’t criticize their consis-

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tency: the food is always on-point while the generous floor plan makes it suitable for unwieldy groups of large and loud lads. (D5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 630 5119, champions.pl Koko & Roy Spotlighting ‘New American Cuisine’, the thrust here is on comfort food, albeit several steps beyond what you’d rustle up at home: the Odds & Ends (deep fried pigs tails and chicken hearts tumbled into a big bowl and served with pickled red onions and a lash of sriracha aioli) are bold, unexpected and utterly delicious.

Fun, innovative and pleasingly casual, it’s a bit like visiting friends who really know how to cook. Take it all in inside a brill interior that’s all Sputnik lights, intriguing artwork and mustard-toned finishes. (D5) ul. Wilcza 43

bakeries Aromat That many consider this their favorite bakery says it all. French flour and an expert baker ensure brilliant results, while the lemon éclairs deserve their own Facebook page. (C4) ul. Sienna 39 Café Vincent Queues build quickly as locals line up to buy baguettes, cinnamon rolls, lemon croissants and beautiful pains au chocolat. But people don’t just head in then out, a small wine list and brilliant people spying opportunities cause many to hang around. (D3) ul. Nowy Świat 64 Charlotte While the fancy crowd isn’t to everyone’s liking, the atmosphere feels truly continental: even more so in warm weather when the terrace packs out. (D6) Al. Wyzwolenia 18 (enter from pl. Zbawiciela), bistrocharlotte.com Paul Specializing in pastries, baguettes and other baked goods, this French chain have rapidly entrenched themselves in the capital following their debut last year.

Various locations, boulangeries-paul.com SAM Co-owner Małgorzata Kusina-Doran is

a fine-bread connoisseur, honing her skills at a bread-making course chaired

by Raymond Blanc. While SAM have expanded to cover numerous locations, this has not been to the cost of the overall quality. many locations, sam.info.pl

balkan Banja Luka Lots of clunky timber and imported ceramics set the scene at this eatery, a Balkan stalwart that’s known for its economical pricing structure and bulky portions. Grilled meats are prominent and the food largely reliable. (E8) ul.

Szkolna 2/4, tel. 22 828 1060, banjaluka.pl Na Bałkany This newbie modernizes the Balkan experience in a manner Warsaw’s yet to see: raw, industrial aesthetics meet head on with a menu that adds a delicate finesse to a cuisine better known for its heavy, rustic style. The addition of a light, sophisticated hand has not, however, been to the detriment of taste. Of the favorites, the swordfish steak, lamb goulash and beef plejskavica sell particularly well. It feels all the more complete with a rakija or three. Full review soon. (D6) ul.

Koszykowa 47 (entry from ul. Koszykowa 53), tel. 22 118 38 38, nabalkany.pl

chinese

Pańska 85 Ample in size, the interiors speak of money well spent. This is especially true because despite the luxury trimmings Pańska looks good without ever losing its dignity. With their kitchen staff headhunted from across China, the food sets a standard that has yet to be seen in any Chinese restaurant in Warsaw: there’s delicate salmon rolls wrapped in mango; dim sum that are pouches of pure goodness; and Sichuan-style pork that’s a blaze of sizzle and spice.

The Beijing Duck, carved and served

The Best Of Warsaw!

Despite our regular monthly mag first hitting kiosks in 1996, it

was another two years before the decision was taken to round up the best Warsaw offered. This wasn’t due to an editorial oversight, rather because back in those days there just wasn’t much to honor: a case in point? Thumbing through that first Best of Warsaw edition, shout-outs went to “someone’s grandmother” (for Best Pierogi), and a club called Planeta on account of having a rottweiler called Tyson guarding the door.

Skip forward a few years, and by 2004 the city had developed to the stage where our winners were winning because they offered something good. Well, why not throw a party to celebrate reasoned our publisher. That tradition has carried to this day, with our fifteenth gala evening proving the most successful yet. Yep, three day hangovers really can happen. To our sponsors, patrons, guests and winners, we can but say thank you.

KEY JURIED CATEGORIES The Nominees...

Casual Dining Kromki Mięsny MOD Mokolove Supperlardo Ethnic Dining Cumin Ceviche Bar La Sirena Kanapa Tahina Neo-Bistro Ale Wino Bez Gwiazdek Dyletanci Rozbrat 20 Kieliszki na Hożej

2019

THE NEW CUTTING EDGE

Newcomer Europejski Grill Restauracja Warszawska Supperlardo White One Zoni

The people and places that have carved their place in the city of tomorrow

Modern Polish Bazar Kocha Bez Gwiazdek Polana Smaków Zielony Niedźwiedź Zoni

REVEALED INSIDE

Warsaw’s top chefs, restaurants, bars, clubs and buzzes as chosen by the Insider and its jury!

Bow_2018_Cover-FINAL.indd 1

PLUS:

Price: zł. 30 ANNUAL EDITION 2019

Vegan food, ethnic restaurants, timeless local classics and all the nightlife you can shake a stick at!

Best Chef Robert Trzópek (Bez Gwiazdek) Bartosz Szymczak (Rozbrat 20) Aleksander Baron (Zoni) Sebastian Welpa (Ale Wino) Rafał Hreczaniuk (Dyletanci) Rising Star Damian Wajda

15/04/2019 3:09 pm

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EAT! Listings table-side, is the highlight. (B4) ul. Pańska 85, panska85.com Regina Bar Taking their inspiration from New York’s Little Italy and Chinatown, the menu at Regina is the very definition of ethnic comfort food: won-ton dumplings, ribs in sticky hoisin sauce and the best-selling General Tso chicken – famed for its healing properties, it’s one of the best hangover remedies around. On the Italian front, leopard-spotted pizzas land are presented with wheel-bladed knives in a kooky, retro interior featuring a dangling chandelier and the tallest mirror in Poland (possibly). (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, fb.com/Reginabar To Tu Dumpling Bar A shabby looking shack cabin, To Tu offer what are seriously considered some of the best – if not the best – dim sum in town. Magic-ked up by a Manchurian exile, the experience isn’t unlike being in a sweaty back street haunt in Asia. And that’s a good thing! ul. Niekłańska 33 Udon Noodle Bar Hidden behind fogged-up windows, the simplistic interiors belie a brief menu that has struck a chord with the local Chinese community for the authenticity of its hand-stretched Lamian noodles and freshly-steamed dim sum – they look good, and they eat even better.

Reminiscent of the kind of clattery venue found in China Towns the world over, what the Udon Noodle bar lacks in choice and aesthetics is counter-balanced courtesy of plump little dumplings you can’t get enough of. (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 85

comfort & street food Barn Burger Considered one of the founding fathers of Warsaw’s burger culture, Barn Burger have withstood the test of time and emerged as the yardstick all others are judged against. Prepped using freshly ground Charolais beef, choices include the jalapeno-laid Muppet and the outrageous Bypass (400g of beef with quadruple cheese and bacon). If you want to go down in legend, enter one of their Americanstyle speed eating comps. (D4) ul. Złota 9. tel. 512 157 567, barnburger.pl Beef’N’Roll If the wheels have fallen off the burger craze then no-one told Beef’N’Roll.

Originating as a food truck, their success has been such that a fixed venue was required. Everything about the food and drink suggests quality is the main consideration. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel.

531 707 070, beefnroll.pl

A MODERN BISTRO IN WARSAW'S MURANÓW Jana Pawła II 45a, lok. 38, Tel: 666 043 043 kromkibistro.pl fb.com/kromkibistro

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Burger Bar Warsaw has come full-circle: years after burgers briefly starred as the national food, it’s the original burger joint that still bosses the field. ul. Puławska 974/80 (enter from Olkuska) & ul. Krucza 41/43, burgerbar.waw.pl Efes Forget the restaurant bit, it’s the window hatch you’ll want. Here, muddy manual laborers and polo-shirted locals tolerate each other to stand in chaotic queues that often snake onto the street. The reason? Warsaw’s finest kebab. (H4) ul.

Francuska 1, tel. 22 616 2580, restauracjaefes.pl Hala Gwardii Set within a charmingly distressed piece of Tsarist-era brickwork, it’s not just the depth of the offer that has kept crowd figures high, but the quality as well. Standouts in this food hall are too numerous to mention, but hat tips go towards the Gorilla coffee point; the meaty treats of Beef’n’Roll; the delicious dumplings at I Love Pierogi; and the English-style spuds served by Pieczone Ziemniaki. Last but not least, no-one in Poland scoops better ice cream than the team at Ice Pot. (C3) Pl. Mirowska 2, halagwardii.pl Hala Koszyki Nirvana for the aspirational classes, careful surgery has preserved the heritage of this early 20th century marketplace and juxtaposed it against the urban tapestry of modern Warsaw.

Appealing to everyone from foodies and families to Instagram scenesters, its success has sparked a nationwide wave of doubles and duplicates. But despite their best efforts, none come close to feeling quite so global. Not ones to stand still, May saw the addition of a narrow indoor avenue towards the back flanked on each side by busy street food stalls. Walking around Koszyki, find all from Korean noodles, Spanish tapas, Mexican burritos, Greek kebabs and so much more. (D6) ul.

Koszykowa 63, koszyki.com Kur & Wino It’s hard to fault a simple concept when it’s executed this well. In this case, that means rotisserie chickens and guinea fowl served on wooden trays with an

EAT! Listings Okienko When the chips are down and you’re looking for emergency nourishment, then join the queue outside Okienko: serving Belgian-style frites in paper cones, this street-side hatch is a true window of life.

The roster of sauces, written up in marker pen on the wall tiles, are often superb.

(D7) ul. Polna 22

array of homemade sauces that include sweet plum, spicy mango and Sriracha.

Amiable service, a funky / retro design (old LPs, PRL-era flooring and a bank of step-seats sprinkled with cushions) and a decent selection of craft beers and wines complete the picture. Young and fun, it’s exactly what Muranów has been missing for several years. (C1) ul. Andersa 21, fb.com/kurwino Kura Pairing fried chicken with double-fried chunky chips, think of this budget stop as an artisanal take on KFC for the posthipster generation. And best of all, check their homemade sauces: from the tart and spicy Challenger No. 3, to the tangy Mango-BBQ option, these are sauces that open the gateway to addiction. The ultimate definition of comfort food, look on Kura as one of the city’s best examples of street food culture gone right. (B2) ul.

Nowolipki 15, restauracjakura.pl

Pogromcy Meatów Dude food doesn’t get much better.

Specializing in slow-cooked meats, find artisan buns stuffed with ribs, beef tongue, pastrami and the like before being given extra oomph with locally grown greens, homemade kimchi or house pickles. A savage, primal pleasure of dripping sauce and juicy meat, the homespun quality of Pogromcy Meatów catapults it above the competition. (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1 Postępu 5 Christened Mordor by the despairing

employees who head there each working day, the area around Domaniewska doesn’t have the best public image. though, there isn’t just hope, but also a solution to realign the spirit of this quarter. Call it Postępu 5, a collection of street vendors housed in a line of former garages and storage units. Highlights inc.

Blin (for Russian-style pancakes), Hotto Doggu (Japanese hot dogs), and Roger That Foods, a close quarters burger stop immediately identifiable by the monster smoker set outside. ul. Postępu 5, postepu5.pl Warburger While Warsaw has lost its appetite for burgers, you wouldn’t necessarily tell by popping in WarBurger. Set inside a diminutive cabin, join the scrum for jazzed-up burgers that use slow-food ingredients. If not the best, they’re most certainly up there. (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1, warburger.pl

Discover the True Taste of India in Several Locations around Warsaw WWW.CURRY-HOUSE.PL

HOŻA 54

ŻEROMSKIEGO 81

KONDRATOWICZA 59

536 443 771

508 870 774

789 444 921

(Śródmieście)

(Stare Bielany)

(Targówek)

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EAT! Listings desserts Deseo Burakowska Luxury desserts, pralines and tarts served inside an ivy clad building in a leafy post-industrial complex off Burakowska. The contemporary style is reflected by an interior that’s modern, pared down and richly bathed in sloping sunlight. ul. Burakowska 5/7 El Krepel The rather tantalizing donuts include dulce de leche with cinnamon sugar or rich, creamy donuts topped with marshmallows. The work of Łukasz Kawaller (he of Hell’s Kitchen fame) and blogger / photographer / model Justyna Pankowska, it’s a charming, bijou space of fun, frilly style – think pretty pink seats and a wall overlaid with hundreds of rosebuds. (D6) ul. Śniadeckich 12/16 Lokal Dela Krem That you can now buy vegan, mojito-flavored cupcakes in Warsaw is an indication of the city’s fanatical commitment to healthy living. A roaring success, the first vegan cake shop in the country has become a local staple. (D5) ul. Hoża 27A Lukullus Founded in 1946, Lukullus have evolved into a funky boutique cafe chain noted for

quirky interiors and buzzy atmosphere.

Oh, and desserts. Renouncing short cuts and low-cost ingredients, this family enterprise has earned a name for top quality desserts that see traditional favorites updated for the modern times.

Various locations, lukullus.pl Miss Mellow Mixing sophisticated desserts with those that fall more on the filthy food porn side of thigs, Miss Mellow have hit the bull’s eye by offering something for everyone that enjoys the sweeter things in life.

Lauded even by Vogue, find a wicked rundown of toasts, brioches, financiers, brownies, cookies and cakes. Eschewing chemical nasties, it’s a place in which the owners’ commitment towards quality resonates throughout. (D5) ul.

Wilcza 62 MOD Warsaw has always loved donuts, but it took the arrival of MOD to elevate this humble doughy vice to new levels with a glam New York-inspired makeover. The mango topped donut is our favorite by miles. (D7) ul. Oleandrów 8 Warszawski Lukier The home of hardcore food porn. Look for their signature freak shakes: towering treats cascading with calories and color.

Their sister op on Żurawia has more of the same… and ice cream! (E5) ul. Hoża 5/7

fine dining Atelier Amaro If Wojciech Amaro’s eponymous restaurant isn’t the most famous in the country, then it’s certainly the most important. Awarded Poland’s first Michelin star in 2013, it’s a venue that continues to set the pace in terms of innovation. Changing weekly, his ‘calendar of nature’ seeks to present forgotten ingredients such as little-known berries, herbs and flowers against meats and other ingredients reared or grown at the Atelier farm. One for any bucket list, there are occasions when dining here can feel like an out-of-body experience.

Abandoning their original home at the start of 2019, we’re visiting soon to see if anything’s changed in their new city center venue. (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 10/14, atelieramaro.pl Amber Room at the Sobański Palace Set in the pre-war Pałac Sobańskich, this pristine manor house is everything you expect: hushed, lavish, cultured and classy. The food fits the backdrop with a contemporary menu often drawing spontaneous outbreaks of collective joy.

Maze-like in its layout, there’s enough nooks and secret rooms to make Amber Room the ideal address for expense account meetings.(E6) Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, amberroom.pl

Hungarian cuisine, modern interiors and a wine cellar in the very heart of Warsaw

ul. Zgoda 1, tel. 22 828 22 44, www.borpince.com, info@borpince.pl

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EAT! Listings Belvedere Łazienki Królewskie Set in an imperial age glass orangery, it’s festooned with intricate latticework and botanical exotica. The updated interiors are the work of acclaimed set designer Boris Kudlicka, and lend a fresh, contemporary tone that goes hand in hand with the menu. But behind the gels and emulsions and pretty little swirls, this is cooking of substantial depth; it’s cooking that takes you to the very soul of Polish nature. (F6) ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. 22 558 6701, belvedere.com.pl Chłodna 15 by Wilamowski Gone are the Alice in Wonderland decorations of the previous tenant, La Maison, replaced instead by a muted charcoal look that’s reassuringly refined – for the time you’re here, you forget you’re on the ground floor of a 70s tower block.

Aiding the amnesia is the classic French cooking of Arkadiusz Wilamowski: small and mercurial in its content, the dailychanging menu is a work of preposterous detail – no sauce takes less than a day to make. So the rumors go, Michelin are watching closely. (B3) ul. Chłodna 15, choldna15.pl Europejski Grill The flagship restaurant of the Raffles Europejski has cut no corners in their bid to become one of the city’s top restaurants. A seriously swish interior of pearl white colors is teed-up against

contemporary flashes (hexagonal lighting, outsized plates hanging from the wall) and gleaming silverware. Enjoying precisely composed dishes such as beetroot tartar or Dover Sole is a welltailored crowd that expects nothing but the best. (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, raffles.com/warsaw N31 Been there, done it all. That’s Robert Sowa, a national treasure widely hailed for modernizing Poland’s gastronomic sector back in the country’s culinary dark days. A chic city center bubble beloved by business types, the food is first class with Sowa’s international travels reflected by surprises such as flawless tuna partnered with kabayaki sauce, yuzu, wasabi dressing and turnip salad. The flavor combinations are exceptional. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 31, n31restaurant.pl

Nolita BEST WAWA 2017 “Fine Dining” For many diners, there is no bigger night out than one that begins and ends in this enclave of class. Dashing in its monochrome colors and muted gunmetal shades, Nolita is where Warsaw heads to

live the life of the 1%. Lacking the magic tricks of some, the ‘show factor’ might be subdued but the tastes definitely aren’t.

Who to credit? Two words: Jacek Grochowina. Cooking with poise and focus, his menu is a marriage of the classic and creative, with core ingredients given unexpected lifts with cunning turns and inspired little twists: maybe some yuzu with the tartare or konbu with the eel. (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 292 0424, nolita.pl Platter by Karol Okrasa It’s a fact that Okrasa’s appearances in the kitchen are fleeting and rare, but that’s done nothing to hurt this restaurant’s prestige. Head chef Łukasz Pielak has proved to be a lethal assassin, executing the ideas of his mentor with accuracy and passion. The cooking is detailed, balanced and elegant, with the highlight of our visit being deer in plum sauce. A thing of imperial, velvety richness it’s a dish that turns up the volume on a memorable experience. (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (Hotel InterContinental Warsaw), warsaw.intercontinental.com Senses Diners are best advised to leave logic outside. Inspired by the idea of ‘note-bynote’ cooking, Italian-born chef Andrea Camastra isolates and extracts molecules from ingredients to obtain the purest flavors before matching them up with unlikely partners. What unfolds is a

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EAT! Listings dazzling show of near illusory brilliance; the technical proficiency of the kitchen is exceptional and makes the WTF prices easier to swallow. Wrap-up the evening with a pungent, edible cigar.

(C2) ul. Bielańska 12, tel. 22 331 9697, sensesrestaurant.pl

‘Simplicity, elegance and atmosphere’

Cafe • Wine Bar • Restaurant • Whisky Bar • Wine Cellar ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 515 037 001 www.hoza.warszawa.pl www.facebook.com/hoza25 Open 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-21:00

Signature Flirting with fine dining – yet at prices a notch below – the menu is a succession of highs that are a tribute to the sophisticated palate of chef Wojciech Kilian. Adorned with original, auctionbought photos of Marilyn, pretty pink colors and luxury fittings, Signature washes over you in waves of bliss.

(D5) ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 55 38755, signaturerestaurant.pl

french

L’Arc Looking elegant with its black/white floors and subtle decorations bills at L’Arc can become big number affairs – especially if you hanker for seafood. Pick from numerous types of oysters or delve into the fish tank for the lobster of your choosing. The catchment area extends beyond the borders of Mokotów, not just because of their ‘fresh from France’ seafood, but because of classic dishes such as Mulard duck and Burgundy snails. (E8) ul. Puławska 16, larc.pl

georgian Chinkali Signposted by a Georgian-language shingle, there’s a real sense of pleasure about this place. More modern than your typical folksy ethnic outpost, Chinkali’s draw is indeed its chinkali: dough purses packed with meaty broth.

There’s a genuine homemade quality to these slurpy bundles of joy, meaning that while they’re authentic. And don’t miss out on the red bean chachapuri washed down with a mouthwash-colored tarragon lemonade. (D4) ul. Zgoda 3

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Rusiko To the uninitiated, Georgian food is representative of the heart, spirit and passion of its people; it’s a cuisine that values the concept of the feast: wine, laughter and song find themselves elevated to roles of primary importance.

A food of life, spice and whole-hearted tastes, consider Rusiko as the best ambassador there is for this surprisingly diverse kitchen. Note: closed Monday.

(E5) Al. Ujazdowskie 22, tel. 22 629 0628, rusiko.pl

greek & turkish Maho Maho feels like it’s located at the end of the earth – but its distance deters no-one, least of all its army of hardcore followers. Why are they there? The answer is a Turkish grill that takes you right to the heart of this glorious cuisine.

Highly recommended is the Iskender kebab: layers of juicy doner meat served with scoops of fresh tomato sauce and fresh, thin pide bread straight from the wood-fired oven. While you’re there, you may as well stock up on imported goodies from their adjoining store. Al. Krakowska 240/242, maho.com.pl Paros Out of all of Warsaw’s Greek contributions Paros dazzles most with a glitzy look that’s a complete U-turn from the typical taverna look. Owned by the same team behind El Greco, the menu is identical, though a recent visit suggests a kitchen resting on its laurels – not one plate on our table was finished. (D4) ul.

Jasna 14/16, tel. 22 828 1067, parosrestauracja.pl Santorini Santorini looks scuffed and tired but there’s a bonhomie present that instantly engages. The kitchen attaches no value to things like presentation, preferring instead to simply treat diners to piles of grilled and skewered food that consistently tastes right. ul. Egipska 7, tel.

22 672 0525, kregliccy.pl/santorini/ Sofra A highly respected Turkish eatery with a wondrous beef mussaka and a wholly

EAT! Listings admirable lineup of other ethnic dishes: the lamb shashlik has never failed us.

Pleasingly informal, this neighborhood redoubt feels cheerfully unforced, and it becomes an easy place to hang around in. (C6) ul. Wilcza 71, tel. 731 847 731

hungarian

Borpince Modernized versions of traditional Magyar cuisine come served in surrounds that feel even more familial given the 100-odd wines from the various regions of Hungary. (D4) ul.

Zgoda 1, borpince.pl

indian Bollywood Lounge Known for their raucous dusk-till-dawn parties, there is another less hedonistic roll filled by Bollywood: that of a restaurant. The menu is an uncomplicated, classic affair that’s an ideal primer for the party ahead. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, tel. 22 827 0283, bollywoodlounge.pl

Curry House Ask for something extra hot in Curry House and by Suresh that’s what you’ll get. Yet at Curry House there is more to sing about than just Poland’s highest voltage vindaloo. The curries are rich and sumptuous and consistently cited as among the best in the city. If in doubt, the chicken tikka masala is a fail-safe request. ul. Żeromskiego 81 & ul. Hoża 54, curry-house.pl

Bombaj Masala Not just the best looking of Warsaw’s Indian restaurants, Bombaj Masala also has some of the best cooking. With so many restaurants reliant on one ‘master pot’ for their curry, this classy venue feels unique in delivering a variety of rich, intense tastes. The vindaloo is a special standout, with big, punchy flavors that leave you tingling long after you leave.

(B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 606 688 777, bombajmasala.pl

Curry Leaf The post-industrial style is diluted by the number of Indian trinkets hanging off the vents and pipes. Owned by the same crew behind the lauded Curry House, you’d be completely correct to assume consistency and excellence. ul.

Conrada 5, curryleaf.pl

Modern take on Italian cuisine Focaccia Ristorante Senatorska 13/15, Warsaw/Old Town +48 22 829 69 69, restauracja@focaccia.pl www.focaccia.pl

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EAT! Listings

Guru Moving into the space vacated by the lamentable BrewDog pub, Guru joins the city’s (very) shortlist of higher end Indians. The menu is a union of local, seasonal ingredients (organic this, farmyard that) and imported spices, coming together to blast the competition out of the water. From the openers, the chili chicken fry stands out as a dish that’s all snap and crackle, while of the mains the tikka masala is exceptional in taste. Plus points for Indian-themed cocktails that really hit the mark – easily one of our favorite openings of 2018. (D4) ul. Widok 8, gururestauracja.pl House of Curry Heat seekers can ‘enjoy’ a genuine deathby-fire experience at House of Curry, though far milder curries are available for more sensitive palettes – either way, the experience is fantastic, and good news for those stuck out in the depths of Józefów. ul. Patriotów 11 A, house-of-curry.pl

Indian Taste Set within a new residential complex on the border of Żoliborz, this smart-looking labor of love presents traditional favorites alongside lesser-known choices such as mango chicken and lamb amritsari. If you’re in luck, find meals complimented with additional chili concoctions made by the chef. Pl. Niemena 1, indiantaste.pl Mandala This long-standing legend is known for its ample portions and online delivery service. Sitting down, the creamy mutton methi is a masterpiece, and the Madras recognized for its blitzing big spices. Their latest operation, set out on Sienna, is open for Indian-style breakfast. ul. Emilii Plater 9/11 / ul. Etiudy Rewolucyjnej 9 & ul. Sienna 87, mandalaklub.com or indiaexpress.pl

that mixes white wooden furnishings against a positive outbreak of colorful cushions. The North Indian food has a habit of raising spirits with its bold spices and authentic style. (C5) ul. Chmielna 98, rasoi.pl Smak Curry There’s been a nationwide pandemic of average Indian restaurants, but despite the rather slim menu Smak Curry can’t be included in that list of disappointments. On the contrary, what the menu lacks in size it compensates in taste: from big, walloping whacks of lavishly spiced pork Madras to sweet but subtle mango chicken, here’s a restaurant that feels it genuinely adds something extra to a saturated market. Complimented by bright, modern interiors and sunny, friendly wait staff, it’s a place that makes a blue day feel that extra bit better. (E8) ul.

Belwederska 44

indonesian Rasoi A cheerful neighborhood style prevails in Rasoi, a friendly restaurant whose positive vibe is expressed via a design

Warung Jakarta The menu has a street food edge and is divided into steps wherein diners first pick out their choice of protein, then their rice, before concluding with any vegetables add-ons (e.g. pak choy, green beans or water spinach). While most Warsaw restaurants have a special lunch scheme going on, Warung’s is one that actually warrants a further look: find truly great off-menu dishes that are highly accessible to all levels of income. (D6) ul.

Piękna 28/34

international

Italian Wine Bar

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Ale Wino Blurring the lines between wine bar and restaurant, the style is easy, breezy and powerfully magnetic – occupying a spread of atmospheric rooms to the back of a Mokotowska courtyard, seats are sometimes hard to come by. The reason: chef Sebastian Wełpa. Of the recent highlights, the rump of lamb with horseradish puree, marinated carrot and bison grass sauce stands out as one of the Insider’s top meals of 2018. (F5) ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 628 3830, alewino.pl

EAT! Listings Aurelio Run by a ‘neuro-gastronomist’, Aurelio aims to connect art and emotions with health and wellbeing via the medium of food. Psychobabble aside, what you’ll find is a beautifully laid-out restaurant with some mesmerizing art, a busy cultural program and a globally-inspired menu based on toxin free produce. For instance, order up a Thai-style duck breast served with orange-ginger puree, elderflower foam and smoked plum sauce – it’s likely you’ll be impressed.

(D4) ul. Świętokrzyska 14, aurelio.pl Bazar Kocha Designed to evoke the spirit of a farmers’ market, the woodsy interior is filled with stall-style units neatly stacked with jars and pots. Yet these are not decorative decoys, but part of a thoughtful grocery offer aimed at showcasing Kocha’s own-made produce.

Above all though, this is a restaurant whose menu is strongly influenced by concepts of ‘terroir’. The giant leg of lamb falls off the bone and is a dish to recommend and remember for several months to come. (D6) ul. Mokotowska 33, bazarkocha.pl Bibenda Preserving the prewar heritage of the building, the warm, busy interiors of Bibenda feel ripe for a pint: and yes, thanks to a rotating roster of craft beers, a good pint is what you can expect. Catching the ambience perfectly, the menu is an interesting work that specializes in spotting unlikely combinations that actually work: for instance, ‘cilantro funky pork sausages’ with pickled carrots, brussels sprouts and fried peanuts.(D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 10, tel. 502 770 303, bibenda.pl Brasserie Warszawska Looking for classic cuisine with no daft flights of fancy? Here you have it. At a time when everyone wants to be Ferran Adrià, Brasserie has both a menu and interior that you can understand: panfried foie gras; elegant beef Rossini; and sinful apple tarte tatin, all served inside posh interiors of zinc-plated mirrors and chessboard floors. Their Michelin Bib Gourmand is a source of pride, but it’s the number of repeat clients that are the ultimate paean to the skills of the chef.

(E5) ul. Górnośląska 24, tel. 22 628 9423, brasseriewarszawska.pl Bubbles Occupying a small, square room, it’s intimate and relaxed: a place busy with blackboards and bottles, crates and clutter. It radiates warmth and honesty.

The food is exquisite, and includes big, meaty snails farmed in Mazury, and their signature dish: Swiss-style raclette.

Presented on a wooden chopping board, this cheese dish is classic melty goodness, and served alongside a pile of potatoes, onions marinated with caramel and candied pumpkin. Considering the place doubles as a champagne bar the prices are remarkably moderate.

(D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 512 540 913, bubbles.com.pl Der Elefant This leviathan restaurant unravels in a maze of wrought iron and monochrome tiles – beautiful to look at (it was created

by Oscar-winning set designer Allan Starski), it’s caused a stir for more than just this alone. Where once the menu looked like it was devised by throwing darts at a cookbook, the focus has now been narrowed. While some of the dishes are strictly middling, the filet mignon (zł. 69) is one of the best meat deals in town in terms of quality / price / consistency. (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, tel. 22 890 0010, derelefant.com Dom Here’s the very epitome of casual dining: set on the ground floor of a suburban house, the warm corners and garden views give Dom a real sense of homey charm. In line with all that is a menu that celebrates simple, honest cooking. Everyone who visits ends up loving the place. ul. Mierosławskiego 12, tel. 509 165 712 Drukarnia Wrapped inside an ugly 1950s facade, this former printing house unravels to expose a sensational interior high on retro pieces: jagged-shaped stone floor tiles, a red neon and stern Socialist era statuettes lend a heavy PRL accent, though the big statement at Drukarnia is supplied courtesy of the architecture itself. Tall windows, high ceilings and a peculiar spiral staircase that disappears warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings into nowhere collude to lend Drukarnia a sense of light, space and depth. The food: limited choice of European standards cooked with competence. If you’re in the area, worth a look ul. Mińska 65, drukarnianapradze.pl Dyletanci Filled with crisp, modern citizens that radiate confidence, Dyletanci introduces itself as a bistro set with green banquettes and Tom Dixon lamps. The wine selection is among the best in the nation, while the cooking has been left to Rafał Hreczaniuk, a workaholic chef with outrageous talent. His zander fillet thrills with every bite. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44A, dyletanci.pl Fest Port Czerniakowski Bring out the clichés: at Fest quality rules over quantity. Food-wise, there’s not much to choose from, but it’s doubtful you’ll find better ribs for a few hundred miles.

Cooked outdoors on a beast of a smoker, these are glorious things of atavistic joy.

Improving the mood yet further is the backdrop, a timber cabin in a wooded part of Warsaw. There’s nowhere else like it.

(G6) ul. Zaruskiego 8 First Floor Restaurant Chic, elegant touches combine with a fully open kitchen visible from practically all angle. Live music is an inseparable element of the First Floor experience, with blues, hazz and Latino performances scheduled every weekend. ul. Kasprzaka 31 (Varsovia Apartamenty), firstfloorrest.pl GarMasz Combining the functions of a store, butchery and, above all, a restaurant, GarMasz is the creation of Piotr Pielichowski, a cook best-known for his appearances on the Polish edition of Master Chef. A keen promoter of natural ingredients and fancy delicacies, his restaurant is stunning in every respect: three years in the making, even the interiors will blow you away.

Designed by Gdańsk-based architect Krystian Rassmus, details include oak finishes, 18th century tiling and swish chandeliers. Full report soon. (E4) ul.

Kopernika 5 Kieliszki Na Hożej Set on the corner of an ornate pre-war building, Kieliszki casts a warm, beckon-

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ing glow on the street outside – resisting its charms is entirely impossible. The cooking is just as seductive and sees Polish mainstays such as dumplings, tartare and herring given a 21st century update. Superb wines, all of which are available by the glass, round out the experience. (D5) ul. Hoża 41, kieliszkinahozej.pl Kromki Better known for kebab stores and booze outlets, this section of JPII does at times chuck up the occasional surprise: Kromki, for one.

The menu is a Jack-of-all-trades, with pizza and burgers rubbing shoulders against pierogi, steak and sharing plates.

Yet despite the randomness of the choices and the curious location, there’s something here that really strikes the right note. Expect tastes that work inside a informal, casual space that’s fast taking off as a local secret. Al. Jana Pawła II 45A Lente There’s a valid reason for the optimism swirling around Hoża, not least the launch of venues such as Lente.

Revamping Mediterranean cuisine for the 21st century diner, this casual spot feels suitably bright and sunny. Featuring the talented Terry Price in the kitchen, food here shines a spotlight on tapas and sharing plates and has thus far met with widespread approval. Full report soon!

(D5) ul. Hoża 43/49 Loft Color, that’s what Loft has. It’s everywhere – from the design, which is all bubble shaped lights and splashy, bright cushions, to the drinks: extravagant cocktails that possibly glow in the dark. The menu is full of playful experimentation, something reflected by a seasonal menu that has, in the past, presented such choices as chicken with strawberries. (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 668 016 964, restauracjaloft.pl MOD BEST WAWA 2018 “Casual Dining” Where odd couplings are concerned, MOD takes the biscuit: hip donut store

by day, at night it morphs into a cool restaurant whose card veers between steaming bowls of ramen and inventive modern dishes that harness the chef’s classic French training (think: beef cheeks with gremolata, tahini mash, veal jus and caramelized sprouts). It’s crazy popular with creative types touting man buns and t-shirts that threaten: “I Shoot Hipsters”. (D6) ul. Oleandrów 8, fb.com/ MODOleandrow8 Mokolove A clear U-turn from the chef’s recent fine dining background (formerly the sous at Nolita, should you ask), there’s something welcoming and warm about this Mokotów venture. Already, you feel a familiarity in the air, not to mention a care and attention towards both produce and punters. The menu, meanwhile, speaks for the need of comfort with its offer of pizza, pastas and seasonal dishes such as pumpkin soup. But wait! The Insider was left disappointed on its latest visit in Jan. So say our notes: “mediocre service, empty restaurant and wrong order delivered!” (E9) ul. Różana 14, fb.com/ RestauracjaMokolove Mokotowska 69 Set inside a rotunda at the tail end of the street, it’s a place that exudes elegance and class. Most of all, however, it’s a restaurant to be enjoyed. Brought to you by the same team credited for Merliniego 5, Mokotowska’s appreciation of steak has been lifted from their elder sister. Yet the virtues of this restaurant extend beyond steak alone: the Insider enjoyed a volley of greats – creamy breaded calf brains, sophisticated smoked eel, and Mazurian crayfish served in a deep, joyous sauce of rowan berry and brandy. (E5) ul.

Mokotowska 69, mokotowska69.com Momu Dominated by meat that’s cooked using the only smoker of its kind in Poland, the menu is comforting and strangely familiar: these are flavors reminiscent of campfire nights – brawny, smoky tastes with towering Reuben sandwiches, juicy steaks, bone marrow and wooden slabs brimming with meats from MOMU’s smokehouse. Impromptu art, tweeting birds and a neo-industrial design add oomph to the busy ambiance. (C2) ul.

Wierzbowa 11, tel. 506 100 001, momu.pl

EAT! Listings Opasły Tom The ground floor – all swanky lighting and navy blue seating – is often packed, so it’s downstairs you may head to an intimate space more reminiscent of the original location formerly found on Foksal: here, it’s about muted colors and reassuring shadow. Characterized by its balanced, nuanced flavors and thoughtful combinations, the first menu to debut at this relaunched restaurant sees a medley of dishes you demand to eat again: pumpkin and curd dumplings served in a cheese sauce being the prime example. (D2) ul.

Wierzbowa 9 PamPam Large spaces, high ceilings, globe-shaped bulbs and plush rouge furnishings lend a sense of refinement to PamPam, a feeling that’s in line with a sophisticated menu that promises much with elegantly presented dishes such as sea bass with herbal curry sauce and oyster mushrooms. (C5) ul.

Emilii Plater 9/11, pampam.com.pl

Pera Inspired by their owner’s travels to New York, Dubai, Berlin and Paris, Pera looks to present a mix of Mediterranean and Asian tastes courtesy of Nestor Grajewski – he’s cooked for Scorsese, Diaz and Di Caprio, now he’s cooking for you! Al. Krakowska 248 Pink Lobster The door clatters shut to divulge a narrow space of tall palm fronds and marble finishes underneath soaring ceilings that seem to stretch on forever. Bursts of flamingo pink colors lend a dapper sense of dazzle to this polished-looking venue. Food is an upscale work that, in spite of the Lobster’s name, awards equal importance to land and sea. Beautifully plated, dishes that the Insider fell for inc. sea bass ceviche, an exquisite exhibition of complex tastes set down in a slash of green on a plate that could pass for a work of sculpture. Immaculate roe deer and a series of extravagant desserts also won praise. (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, pinklobster.pl

Plato Conceived as a ‘smart casual’ restaurant, it’s a reasonably compact space with a modern style and incandescent bulbs hanging from a complex cat’s cradle of interweaving wires: classy but nothing too flashy or flamboyant. Then there’s the menu, a strange work that sees Spanish influences brushing shoulders next to Polish and Asian. It sounds silly and preposterous but my God it works. December saw us wowed by beef tartar cut from Polish Hereford, an aromatic oriental broth, and a refined halibut encircled with sage pesto, redcurrants and fresh almonds. Stunning. ul. Klimczaka 1 (Royal Wilanow), restauracjaplato.pl

As recommended in the Warsaw Insider's 2019 Best of Warsaw issue!

2019

Restauracja Warszawska BEST WAWA 2018 “Newcomer” Humongous in size, the vast spaces and lack of natural light never feel an issue.

Loaded with slick finishes and polished raw materials, find this subterranean venue unraveling amid the giant original foundations that support this pre-war skyscraper. Divided into ‘snacks’, ‘plates’, ‘sides’ and ‘desserts’, big shouts go for the golden schnitzel as well as the spicy pork dumplings served in a vibrant essence of paprika. It’s not a big menu, but it doesn’t need to be: exceptional in every respect, this restaurant has become one of foodie Warsaw’s biggest talking points. Upscalecasual has rarely felt this good. (D4) Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9 (Hotel Warszawa), warszawa.hotel.com.pl Rozbrat 20 BEST WAWA 2018 “Neo-Bistro” This busy neo-bistro fuses upmarket, casual styling with an exciting wine list, interactive service and the kind of atmosphere you can’t get enough of. Under chef Bartosz Szymczak’s leadership, Rozbrat’s grown to become one of the blogospheres favorite write-ups. Never the same, if there’s a consistent thread to visits then it’s the playful inventiveness that has come to define Szymczak’s cooking. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 20, rozbrat20.com.pl Soul Kitchen Bistro If the previous venue was all slanted towards low-pitched business conversation then the new one is positively festive in comparison: scuffed brickwork, tall bar stools, a long communal table, etc.

The seasonal menu is a pick-and-mix

Le Cedre Lounge Grzybowska 5A Tel 22 299 7299

Le Cedre 61

(opposite the zoo) Al. Solidarności 61, Praga Tel 22 670 1166

Le Cedre 84

(opposite the court) Al. Solidarności 84 Tel 22 618 8999

www.lecedre.pl warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings of small-to-medium plates, including a halibut gravlax, whose delicate taste juxtaposes well against the rougher, earthier kick of the radish, and crayfish presented in a bird’s nest of green beans, fennel and leek. For mains, look for the braised beef. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 18A, soulkitchen.pl

Sphinx One of Poland’s best-known and most popular restaurant chains touches down on Krucza to offer their tried and tested formula of steaks and Middle Easterninspired dishes. (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, sphinx.pl Stixx It’s easy to distrust a menu with such international diversity, but the kitchen crew really make it come together: the Indian section is particularly outstanding. Then there’s the design, a balance between slick corporate and sexy cosmopolitan: with the Warsaw Spire towering above it outside, it’s the kind of address to take any new arrival who still thinks of Poland as being backward. (A4) Pl. Europejski 4A, tel. 22 340 4040, stixx.pl Strefa If there’s a dining room in heaven, then it probably looks like Strefa – only marginally less white. Pure and pristine, the swan-like elegance of the interior whispers dignity and decorum.

Immaculate and refined, it’s a soothing atelier with a rarefied air. Mostly though, it’s the food that people talk about. Citing Nordic cuisine as his primary influence, the chef has honed a menu of note which, on our November visit, included a deep and soothing mushroom soup that brought to mind Poland’s dark autumn forest. The tastes are clear and true and say much for a chef that has his brain switched on. (C3) ul. Próżna 9, tel. 22 255 0850, restauracjastrefa.pl Supperlardo Run as a side project by Mąka i Woda (quite literally – it’s right next door), it’s a stylish-looking spot that’s fresh, contemporary and even a little edgy: for evidence, refer to a mural designed by Swansky, a local big gun on the street art scene. As for the menu, that’s a riotously

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meaty romp that involves wood-fired hams, sandwiches composed of pork belly pastrami and salt-cured meats from Puławska and Mangalica pigs. With orders taken at the counter, it’s a place that lifts the canteen concept to new, unseen heights. (D4) ul. Chmielna 13A, fb.com/ Supperlardo Warszawski Sznyt Sure the Old Town looks cute, but that doesn’t mean it can cook. Behind the frilly front rooms of the district’s restaurants lie kitchens of catastrophic reputation – they don’t exist to make you feel good, they’re there to rob you of your money. But rules have exceptions and in Old Town’s case that means Warszawski Sznyt. Outstanding Nowy Polski cuisine presented in prettified form, as well as a pan European menu bristling with regional specialties inside an interior that’s sleek, stylish and contemporary. (D2) ul. Senatorska 2, warszawskisznyt.pl White One The changing face of Koszykowa street is almost embodied by White One – where once stood a disintegrating tenement stands a revamped building with a super swanky ground floor restaurant. Ideal for those nights you want to make an impression, interiors are well-spaced, smart and modern but never too intimidating. The pared-down menu is fully reflective of contemporary dining trends: innovations include a 5-course vegan tasting menu, as well as a 7-course menu entirely dependent on the whims of the chef – you won’t know what’s in store till it lands on the table! Full review soon. (D6) ul.

Koszykowa 47, whiteone.pl Winsky Points are earned for an edgy selection of ‘tap wines’ and a menu of small plates that are Polish in spirit but not short on international twists and turns. The design, with its deep sofas and plush, dark fabrics, is refined and considered while the riverside views pure sunset bliss.

Ideal for dating. (F4) ul. Wioślarska 10

italian Altro Locale Set in a quiet section of Old Mokotów, it’s

little wonder the plaudits haven’t ceased.

Owned by chef Andrea Carillo, authentic, homespun tastes vie for attention inside a charming space that’s chic and modern but never spartan. You can tell Carillo has invested his heart and soul in this venture, and the result is an ever-changing menu featuring lamb chops, sirloin, and sea bream done the Italian way – don’t think you’ll be getting any pizza here!

Fittingly, its reputation is now extending beyond the district’s natural border. (E8) ul. Willowa 9 Ave Pizza The argument over who serves Warsaw’s best pizza goes right to the wire, but there’s no doubting that Ave Pizza are up there on the leaderboard. Set across a sparse, metropolitan area, this fashionable L-shaped joint comes endorsed by the capital’s notoriously picky Italian community. Order the pillowy calzone and you’ll soon learn why. (E3) ul. Topiel 12, tel. 22 828 8507, avepizza.pl Dziurka od Klucza An enchanting locale in which enigmatic, lavender-painted doors sit embedded into the walls, as if waiting to be magically opened by the mysterious keys that hang from the numerous interior details. Set with empty picture frames and cotton ball lights, interiors just don’t get any cuter. As for food, the concise, daily-changing menu is centered around homemade pasta – pride of place is given to the black colored pasta served with seafood. (E3) ul. Radna 13, tel. 500 150 494, dziurkaodklucza.com.pl Focaccia The big surprise at Focaccia is that there’s no Italian in the kitchen – it appears they don’t need one. Looking splendid in its crystal white colors, this dining room has plaudits aplenty for its selection of pizzas and more sophisticated mains: order the duck breast with marsala sauce for a failsafe choice. (D2) ul. Senatorska 13/15, tel. 22 829 6969, focaccia.pl Mąka i Woda Purists applaud an approach that uses a custom-made oven from Naples and imported ingredients such as 00 Caputo flour and DOP certified San Marzano tomatoes. Scrupulously authentic, it’s no

EAT! Listings wonder that it’s packed to the gunnels every night of the week – even their Facebook page warns of 20-minute waiting times for a table alone. (D4) ul.

Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 91 87 Posypane A casual restaurant with handmade pasta made fresh on the day and a choice that includes ravioli with chorizo and shrimp, bucatini Bolognese with seasoned beef and rosemary, and a creamy mushroom pappardelle. Then, adding to the sense of being somewhere young, fun and a little bit hip, is an edgy design featuring a wall of kitchen implements, hanging ropes and exposed concrete. In an area already rife with niche eateries aimed at the modern day Varsovian, Posypane feels like a satisfying addition. (D5) ul. Hoża 43/49 Prosciutteria Powiśle Buzzing with warmth, here an interior composed of pre-war floor tiles, exposed brickwork, and black and white images of Italian icons sets a casually good mood that’s sustained by the owners. They’re knowledgeable, as well. If Prosciutteria feels good, then it tastes even better.

Based around cold cuts, find heavy wooden boards loaded with imported delicacies from small producers that the couple have befriended: Ubriaco cheese bathed in Prosecco; pork belly fat dry-cured for six months; salami from Milan and Naples… There’s more, of course, but it all becomes one in this orgy of pleasure.(F4) ul. Solec 85

japanese Arigator This Japanese-style noodle joint whisks you to the narrow, steamy back alleys of late night Tokyo. Clad in corrugated iron and dark, weathered wooden slats, it’s got that buzzing sense of chaos that feels familiar from the films. And the food, gosh, they get that right as well.

From a tiny menu order up dainty pork dumplings, braised kakuni bacon or deep-fried tofu before hitting up a feisty bowl of ramen emanating life-affirming goodness. A complex tangle of interlacing flavors, it’s the sort of dish you’d happily queue up for: and yes, people do. (D6) ul.

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Benihana Fire, flash, show and sizzle: the Benihana experience merges cooking with cabaret with diners sat ringside around teppanyaki grills. These cooking stations are the stage for the Benihana crew to demonstrate their riveting range of nifty knifework and daredevil antics. Outside of the realm of the grill, the sushi also strikes the right note. (C4) ul. Twarda 2/4, benihanapoland.com Fat Buddha Immense in size, there’s a confident feeling of decadent ostentation: with light kept at bay by vast mulberry-colored drapes, what would otherwise appear as an over-sized hall feels intimate and sensual, dark and delicious. Japanese in spirit, the menu pitches a refined selection of exceptional dishes – elaborate dragon rolls; delicate gyoza; and beef tataki that’s lightly seared and thinly sliced. It’s all perfect. (D3) ul.

Mazowiecka 2/4 Mizu Rarely does a restaurant meet with such unanimous approval, and while the name of Mizu remains unknown among the majority, those In The Know have been crowing about it for a good couple of years. Irresistible, immaculate and imaginative, this is sushi the likes of which the capital has never seen before – there’s a magic here that makes the knees go wobbly. Touting a modern-minimal look, the off-center location in a former factory since requisitioned by ad agencies adds to the sensation of dining somewhere a little under-the-radar: to eat here is to visit one of Warsaw’s great whispered secrets. ul. Duchnicka 3, mizusushi.pl Sakana Sushi & Sticks It’s not uncommon to hear the preparation of sushi described as a form of art, and in Sakana that’s exactly what it is.

Using premium ingredients and unusual combinations, their creations are a vivid blast of color and freshness. (D2) ul.

Moliera 4/6, tel. 22 826 59 58, sakana.pl Sato Gotuje Signposted by its own splash of Mangastyle art adorning the exterior wall, this Commie era pavilion feels small and squashed and assembled on a budget.

Who cares? No-one. An exciting departure

UL. PRÓŻNA 10 TEL: 577 607 775 restauracjasanthai.pl warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings from the norm – no sushi here – the menu is a selection of bitey Japanese street food such as grilled mackerel fillet with shavings of grated radish. Prices and quality ensure you don’t stop until you’ve gobbled your way through much of the menu. ul. Pawińskiego 24 Shoku Most places that claim to serve fusion do so because of an identity crisis. At Shoku, though, the mix and match approach when it comes to Asia (if it’s tasty, stick it on the menu!) feels rational and put together. Never short of custom, locals gather inside a bright, contemporary space to slurp down bowls of ramen, share shoku bowls or click chopsticks over small plates of dim sum and wonton. Come summer, the scene ramps up a notch with diners flocking to a prim garden area that’s billiard green in color.

(A4) ul. Karolkowa 30, shoku.pl

korean The Cool Cat Proving something other than just a faddish flash in the fire, The Cool Cat has caught the zeitgeist by the horns and come to represent the hip Powiśle style; casual and convivial and absent of aloofness, it’s a place in which all life seems to gather for a taste of good times.

Refusing to take themselves too seriously, the angle is fun and forward-thinking, something that’s evidenced by way of an occasionally wacky menu of Americanized Asian food: the K-Fries (a big messy mass of kimchi, chips, bulgogi beef) are spot on. (F4) ul. Solec 38, tel. 787 698 700

Uki Uki How much do the locals appreciate Warsaw’s original udon bar? Enough to queue outside the door? That’s right.

Dining is a close quarters experience here, but is done so without complaint: that electric pasta maker turns out noodles of such chewy goodness that everyone leaves beaming. (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, tel. 728 827 705, ukiuki.pl

KoreaTown Rest Here, the ubiquitous KFC (Korean fried chicken) is all crunch and crackle and the bulgogi tender, juicy and the right side of sweet; accompanying them, an assortment of bitey dishes heaving with chilli flecked kimchi, daikon radish and pickled bits and bobs. All very good, but nothing compared to the bossam, braised pork belly scooped up by hand inside glistening perilla leaves: it’s a dish that soothes, gratifies and leaves diners looking every bit as pleased as the pipe-smoking tiger that gazes from the wall. (E9) ul. Olesińska 2, fb.com/KoreaTownRest

Wabu Sushi becomes a heaven’s gate spiritual experience in Wabu with the evening passing in a blur of beautiful compositions, of silky slithers of fish crowned with expert pinches of this, and little brush strokes of that. That’s all elevated even further by deliciously upscale interiors befitting of the Spire location. (A4) Pl. Europejski 2 (Warsaw Spire), wabu.pl

Miss Kimchi Cheap and cheerful Korean street food served in a small, steamy space that’s frequently packed to the rafters. Box sets come piled high with meat, rice and veg.

The spotlight falls on the bibimbap, a satisfying mess of shredded veg, lively spices, a fried egg and beef bulgogi. This is replenishment in its truest form. (B4) ul. Żelazna 58/62, tel. 570 186 066

Yatta Originally born from a food truck, Yatta’s stationary address is everything you want: scruffy, frayed and busy, and the living embodiment of the street food vibe. The ideal outlet for their concept, step inside a rackety interior to join other hip creatures Instagramming the only jiro ramen to be found in Warsaw.

Once you’re done doing that, kick back to slurp over big, steamy bowl of spicy miso ramen. (E3) Bartoszewicza 3, fb.com/ YattaBowl

Sora Korean food is big news in Warsaw, though increasingly it’s the Americanized K-food style you’ll find. Sora returns to the roots with tabletop BBQs, lively spices and lashings of Makkoli wine. The number of Korean guests is an endorsement in itself. (A4) ul. Wronia 45

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Yache Korea Though primarily known as the capital of Warsaw’s craft beer scene, Nowogrodzka is beginning to demonstrate that

she’s more than just a one-trick pony.

Helping the food angle is this newbie, a steamy little venue that’s all clatter and commotion. Design barely goes beyond a wall of potted plants, but with a place of this size all you need is four people and presto, you’ve got an atmosphere. On the food front, the crispy chicken embraces the seoul (ha!) like comfort food at its best, and the bulgogi the best we’ve had this year – not bad going seeing there’s not a Korean in the kitchen. (D5) ul.

Nowogrodzka 25

latin & spanish Casa Pablo “We give Spanish food a new twist,” declares chef Gonzalo de Salas, which explains why, in between pungent cheeses and acorn-fed Bellota ham, we find ourselves demolishing a variety of dishes that buck all notions of tradition: as a starter the beetroot-marinated salmon served with wasabi emulsion is a fine example of this. With de Salas performing balletic tricks in the kitchen, Casa Pablo presents a masterful menu that ripples with adventure. (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5A, tel.

22 324 5781, casapablo.pl

Ceviche Bar BEST WAWA 2018 “Ethnic Dining” With chef Martin Gimenez Castro injecting his passion and personality into the venue, this is an address that punches through the greyness of everyday Warsaw. Ceviche – raw fish marinated in citrus juices and cilantro – is the default order, with the Atun one of the best sellers: chunks of tuna given a rich zing with the addition of chili, lime and roasted coriander. The Japanese influence on South America’s dining habits isn’t forgotten either, with must-haves including the the salmon tiraditos: served with teriyaki and sweet potato mash, it’s a joy of satisfying sensations: sweet, dreamy, spicy, creamy.

(C4) ul. Twarda 4, cevichebar.pl Tapas Gastrobar The popular practice is to order so many plates and bottles that the table becomes

EAT! Listings a Magic Eye of kaleidoscope patterns.

A great place for sharing and general interaction, the ambiance and quality belies the corporate anonymity of the location. Though the gazapcho is first class it’s bettered by the patatas bravos: fried potatoes in a ballsy tomato sauce.

(A4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 251 1310, tapasbar.pl

mexican Dos Tacos Who doesn’t like asking for something that’s ‘under the counter’. In the case of Dos Tacos, doing so means inquiring about their range of ‘salsa clandestinas’: extra hot sauces designed for reckless thrill-seekers. But the true secret weapon at Dos Tacos is Isabel Balderas, a Mexican chef that has mastered the bright, bold tastes of her native country. This cuisine has enjoyed a breakout year in Warsaw, but while the millennials clamor over new food trucks and funky little start-ups, Dos Tacos is a timely reminder that the old guard sometimes know best. (D4) ul.

Jasna 22, tel. 22 243 4618, dostacos.pl El Popo Age hasn’t wearied El Popo one iota. Old it might be, but that hasn’t been to the detriment of the atmosphere. A place of happiness, the full color of the Mexican kitchen is brought to life via the full-fisted flavors of chef Angel Aceves. (C2) ul.

Senatorska 27 Gringo Bar A Mexican wave is upon us, and high time too. After years of suffering frozen ingredients, timid flavors and daft Mariachi music to persuade us it’s all authentic, a raft of new cut-price eateries are showing the rest how it’s done.

Cooked and folded by fist bumping lads in back-to-front caps and baggy t-shirts, the food at Gringo is fiery, fresh and full of zing. There are detractors who claim this is a Polonized version of this cuisine, but the informal Gringo remains one of the market leaders. (E9) ul. Odolańska 15, tel.

22 848 9523, gringobar.pl La Sirena You don’t even have to think twice when asked to name the best Mexican in the

capital. Inspired by the ultra-violent films of Danny Trejo, the hardcore interior heaves with machetes, holy shrines, skulls and wire mesh; but if La Sirena looks fab, it tastes even better. Introducing a new dimension to Warsaw’s parched Mexican landscape, highlights inc. poblano peppers stuffed with pork/beef, peach, apple and apricots, as well as a ‘near death’ salsa that’s finally living up to its name. (D5) ul.

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middle eastern

Le Cedre With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops.

(E1) Al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166, lecedre.pl

Le Cedre 84 Le Cedre just keep on getting it right.

Authenticity is key in this chainlette (well, there’s another across the river), as you’ll discover when talking to Tony, the Lebanese owner. To see the diversity of this cuisine, order the balbaak (six cold starters) or the byblos (six hot). And food aside, it’s the atmosphere that carries them that extra yard: the whole philosophy of this cuisine is to share and share alike, making it a uniquely engaging experience when dining with friends. (B3) Al. Solidarności 84, tel. 22 618 8999, lecedre.pl

Le Cedre Lounge Furnished in voluptuous Middle Eastern style, the latest subsidiary of the Le Cedre empire bursts with fancy sheesha pipes, extravagant rugs and shimmery satin drapes. It’s a look that’s fun, familiar, intimate and warm. Less encyclopedic warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings than that of its two sister ventures, Le Cedre Lounge has a slimmer menu that introduces several new tastes to fans of Lebanese cuisine. Helplessly more-ish, it’s food that’s in line with the vibey atmosphere and casual air. (C4) ul.

Grzybowska 5A, lecedre.pl Maghreb Featuring the casual air of good times, head to Maghreb for vibrant Moroccan classics such as merguez sausages and tajine dishes served in traditional earthenware vessels.

With the first chills of winter lapping at the door, it’s a restaurant that provides solace and reassurance. ul. Burakowska 9, maghreb.pl Shuk Located behind Hala Banacha in this gradually blooming district of Warsaw, SHUK’s certainly worth the tram ride if

you’re not a native Ochotian. An offshoot of the acclaimed Mezze, highlights on our visit included a well-seasoned Arabic soup with lentils and spinach followed by a skillet of fried oyster mushrooms cooked with onions and served alongside harissa topped with rose petals. You’re looking at quite a special place that realigns your mojo on an ashen Warsaw day. ul. Grójecka 127 Sokotra Casting a warm, steamy glow over this corner of Wilcza, Sokotra is a welldesigned nook with a rough, urban edge: telegraph poles, bare bulbs and exposed lumps of concrete. Yemeni dishes are available though it’s the Indian food that shines – the Madras is intense, pungent and suitably fiery. (D5) ul. Wilcza 27, tel. 22 270 2766, sokotra.pl Tahina Small and lively, it’s a spot that brings together authentic Middle Eastern tastes

with no quarter given: beef, for instance, is marinated for two days before being slow-cooked for 36-hours. Served in a featherlight lavash, there are those that would call this a kebab, but doing so would severely undersell the goodness in your hand. Demonstrating a fiendish attention to detail, Tahina is nothing if not characterized by its scrupulous specifics: look out for Iraqi-style scrambled eggs with dates, not to mention generous tahini bowls cascading with juicy chunks of chicken, and traditional coffee heated in a pan of sand. (C5) ul. Wilcza 26, fb.com/ TahinaWilcza

polish Belvedere Łazienki Królewskie Set in an imperial age glass orangery, it’s festooned with intricate latticework and botanical exotica. The updated interiors are the work of acclaimed set designer Boris Kudlicka, and lend a fresh,

Jana Moliera 4/6 22 826 5958 moliera@sakana.pl www. sakana.pl

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EAT! Listings contemporary tone that goes hand in hand with the menu. But behind the gels and emulsions and pretty little swirls, this is cooking of substantial depth; it’s cooking that takes you to the very soul of Polish nature. (F8) ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. 22 558 6701, belvedere.com.pl Bez Gwiazdek BEST WAWA 2018 “Best Chef” BEST WAWA 2018 “Tasting Menu” While Bez Gwiazdek rejects the core principles of fine dining, don’t for one minute expect anything less than food that whispers refined sophistication.

Focusing each month on a different region of the country, Robert Trzópek’s tasting menu takes diners to the very heart of the Polish soul and does so via tastes that betray his fine dining background: delicate and precise, it’s the polar opposite of the standard Polski feast. Just when you thought you had worked out the nation’s cuisine, along comes Robert Trzópek to rewrite the rules. (E3) ul.

Wiślana 8, bezgwiazdek.com.pl Bistro Pod Sowami Talk of Praga’s revival feels a bit more serious now that Bistro Pod Sowami has opened. From the outside, this corner tenement is a study in neo-gothic indulgence. On the inside, the muted elegance is perfectly partnered by cooking that sees traditional Polish given a modern reinvention. But will they survive the recent departure of chef Damian Wajda – we’ll be watching closely. (F1) ul.

Okrzei 26, fb.com/bistropodsowami Ćma by Mateusz Gessler Open round-the-clock, Ćma has rescued the city’s night owls from the evil clutches of the center’s grisly kebab dens. Set against an edgy, moth-themed interior designed by guerilla artist Tomasz Górnicki, this on-trend nightspot elevates late night dining to new heights with a menu that involves modernized Polish delicacies such as sausage with

horseradish emulsion, black pudding with apple and… goose stomachs. (D6) ul.

Koszykowa 63, mateuszgessler.com.pl Czerwony Wieprz An amusing restaurant that looks back at communism through a rose-tinted lens.

Under the glowering gaze of commie tyrants, staff dressed like obedient members of the party’s Youth League deliver hefty dishes from a cheeky menu that is in itself a collector’s item. (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 22 850 3144, czerwonywieprz.pl Dom Polski Almost like it was designed for the manor born, Dom Polski has the rarefied atmosphere of a country retreat: bow-tied staff who click their heels, decorative antiques and a menu that’s a sumptuous anthology of posh Polish cooking. When you need to give visitors a sense of classic Warsaw, Dom Polski is the first out of the hat. (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 2432, restauracjadompolski.pl

Flavours of Warsaw - traditional Polish cuisine with a distinctive modern touch. Everything is made from fresh seasonal ingredients.

Enjoy, among many others, beef tartare with lovage mayonnaise, white truffle powder and marinated wild mushrooms.

Or try our mouth watering Dumplings stuffed with veal and marinated squash in red lingonberry sauce.

Or perhaps you have a taste for duck breast with squash purée and a French potato in a dill emulsion. To finish off delight in our home made pastries.

Restaurant and Pastry 48 22 621 82 68 Żurawia str. 47/48 Warsaw Pastry and Cafe 48 608 046 406 Felińskiego str. 52 Warsaw www.smakiwarszawy.com

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Traditional Polish Cuisine,

Ĺťurek

(traditional sour rye soup)

Golonka

(roast pork knuckle)

Placki Ziemniaczane

(potato pancake with gulash)

We serve Polish dishes on hot pans and sizzling cast iron and are winners of many culinary competitions Hand making our own pierogi since 1913 Pierogi Truskawkowe Strawberry dumplings

but don’t miss the pierogi OUR LOCATIONS IN WARSAW U L . K R A KO W S K I E P R Z E D M I E Ś C I E 5 5 | T E L . 2 2 6 9 2 7 2 0 4 U L . N O W Y Ś W I AT 6 4 | T E L . 2 2 6 9 2 4 1 3 5 AL. JEROZOLIMSKIE 28 | TEL. 22 826 7484 U L . F R E TA 1 | T E L . 2 2 8 3 1 6 1 9 0 UL. ŚWIĘTOJAŃSKA 13 | TEL. 22 635 6109 U L . F R E TA 1 8 | T E L . 2 2 6 3 5 7 9 5 9

EAT! Listings Dom Polski Belwederska Accessed via curling pathways and bursting shrubs this restaurant conjures images of an aristocrat’s manor. The air of privilege matches a menu that’s rich in fanciful classics such as their signature goose. Elegant and exquisite, consider it your default choice for a taste of true Poland. (F8) ul. Belwederska 18A, tel. 22 840 5060, restauracjadompolski.pl Elixir by Dom Wódki There are some who call the food here 'deconstructed Polish'. In actuality, 'reconstructed' would be closer to the mark. The chef has taken local classics and redrafted the recipes with the swoosh of a contemporary pen. The outcome is a pleasure from start to finish: a life affirming żurek, a tartar that could fulfill ambassadorial duties for Poland, and a handsome beef tenderloin sprinkled with crispy potato shavings.

Thoughtful pairings with lesser-known, boutique vodkas add another dimension that serves to complete this pleasing, patriotic adventure. (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl Folk Gospoda If you missed the last train to Zakopane, then a night in Folk Gospoda is the next best thing. Kitted out like a typical tavern in the Tatras, it’s a good-humored celebration of mountain-slope traditions: heaps of meat and lard with plenty of vodka and

song in between. (B3) ul. Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605, folkgospoda.pl Kieliszki na Próżnej You’ll find Kieliszki na Próżnej, the latest restaurant to mark the rehabilitation of Próżna, so named after the 1,116 wineglasses that hang tantalizingly over the bar. As an anchor feature the suspended glassware is arresting and equaled only by a long stretch of wall art doodled by Mariusz Tarkawian. The food matches up to the interiors, with a modern Polish menu that – on our visit – involved a thick, brilliantly spreadable foie gras pate, a thick slab of brawn and a delicate piece of moist Baltic cod. It’s pure seasonal comfort. (C3) ul. Próżna 12, tel. 501 764 674, kieliszkinaproznej.pl Klub Spatif Tip tap through the dark chambers into a bright dining room decorated with eggshell lights and vibrant greenery; from the photos on the walls, famous past guests smile down in approval.

Though better known as a bar-club crossover, in daylight hours find a surprisingly brilliant menu featuring modern Polish tastes: tender piglet cheeks with curried sauerkraut, coconut milk and cilantro; marinated salmon with beetroot; and a vegan tartar made with tomatoes and black olives. It is, quite simply, a glorious hymn to natural tastes.

(E5) Al. Ujazdowskie 45, klubspatif.pl

LAS This rail-side communist pavilion has been transformed courtesy of a thorough makeover featuring a jungle of plants, low, muted lighting and the addition of smart charcoal colors and revamped retro fittings. As for food, then familiarize yourself with Anna Klajmon. Having made her bones at Grunt i Woda, her farm-to-fork philosophy has followed her here. Cooking with an air of freedom, there’s a natural goodness to her menu that belies the modest pricing. Highly seasonal, on our visit that meant gorgeous oxtail pierogi with peanut butter and hazelnut sauce. Don’t mix the ‘local cocktails’, either. (F4) ul. Solec 44 Le’pię In a restaurant that feels pure and feminine with its pristine tilework, gold cutlery and pastel pink finishes, the dumpling is given a remarkable, artisanal makeover. Handmade with love, find unlikely fillings such as pear and peach complimented by a pour of honey-ginger syrup, or black pudding squashed in with cranberry and crispy shallots. It’s all quite brilliant, in fact, brilliant enough to feature in a BBC travel segment aired over Christmas. (E3) ul. Topiel 12 Polana Smaków Compact and woodsy, it’s retained the intimacy of the original, the only difference being a design that feels less country cottage and a little more designed – big curtains, trimmed shrubbery and the liberal use of pre-war tiling all add to that impression. Food-wise, and this place remains a passionate advocate of the natural tastes of Poland; find shiny slithers of marinated herring posed on an arc of pumpkin and orange sauce, or mains like catfish in dill cream with smoked potatoes and porcini mushrooms. It’s sophisticated yet reassuringly simple. (C5) ul. E. Plater 14, polanasmakow.pl Pyzy Flaki Gorące Head to decrepit Brzeska to unearth one of Praga’s favorite little secrets.

Serving the best pyzy in town, find your little dumplings squashed into glass vessels then lathered with various toppings. Arguably the best budget meal in Warsaw, this is the essence of Poland served in a jar. (G1) ul. Brzeska 29/31

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EAT! Listings Schabowy Red gingham tablecloths are just about the only decorative element in this plain Jane restaurant; aesthetics don’t figure highly, and that much is clear through an approach to plating presentation that’s best described as basic. But boy, they can cook – simple but delicious, the food here is Polish home cooking at its best: great ingredients used to even greater effect.

As the name suggests, schabowy is the star, and here you’ll find it served in three different forms. ul. Obrzeżna 1, fb.com/ schabowy.warszawa Stary Dom A classic restaurant in style and history: back in the day it was a favorite haunt of jockeys and race goers from the horse track nearby. Pre-war recipes form the basis of the menu, with the team using seasonal produce and the latest technology to bring out its best. ul. Puławska 104/106, tel. 22 646 4208, restauracjastarydom.pl Stolica Set in one of Old Town’s smaller, lesser-known squares, Stolica charms with its pre-war, slightly formal ambiance: pristine white tablecloths and spotless mirrors combine with classic Warsaw tunes to generate a storybook atmosphere straight from the pages of Tuwim and Gombrowicz. Food-wise, you’re looking at typically local dishes such as venison marinated in bison grass vodka. (D1) ul. Szeroki Dunaj 1/3, restauracjastolica.com Talerzyki It sounds a little absurd, but Talerzyki manage the implausible by Polonizing the concept of tapas and coming up trumps. Fiercely Polish in spirit, the menu looks to revive the essence of inter-war Warsaw with its selection of classic recipes presented in scaled-down form: blood pudding with apple and cinnamon; beef tongue and horseradish; and white sausage with fermented flour sauce. It sounds glum and gory but its anything but – and the style mavens of Mokotowska appear to agree. (D6) ul.

Mokotowska 33/35 Warszawski Sen By Mateusz Gessler A quite stunning restaurant dominated by dark geometric patterns and the

installations and ideas of guerilla artist Tomasz Górnicki. Once you’ve caught your breath and snapped off a few pics for your Instagram, settle in for a menu that gives Polish ingredients a highly contemporary treatment. If you thought Hala Koszyki was buzzing, then this edgy space is perhaps its biggest buzz of all. ul.

Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki), mateuszgessler.com.pl Wuwu A vodka bar next to a vodka museum inside a former vodka factory… yep, at Wuwu you can’t escape the facts: vodka is everywhere. Wuwu’s reputation for peerless cocktails (based on you know what) and late hours (closing time: never) has grown exponentially over the months, but so too has its standing in the food chain thanks to a local-centric menu that reintroduces the public to the forgotten tastes of inter-war Warsaw: duck tongues with grapes and hazelnuts; a signature tartar lashed with homemade fermentations; not to mention blood sausage with pickled apples and a deep bread sauce.

Pl. Konesera 1 (Centrum Praskie Koneser), wuwu.bar

MODERN TAKE ON JAPANESE CUISINE

Zapiecek Seven Warsaw locales, with our favorite found in the vaulted passages of Świętojańska. The menu is highly traditional, with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’. It’s for the pierogi though for which they’re famous; find approx. fifty types delivered by servers dressed like saucy country maids. Locations inc. ul.

Nowy Świat 64, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska 13, tel. 22 635 61 09, & ul. Wańkowicza 1, zapiecek.eu Zielony Niedźwiedź A sanctuary of elegant fancy, it’s a place of long, dark shadows and discreet decorative touches: From the outset, you’re made to feel that good things will happen, and this they do. Certified by Poland’s fledgling slow food movement, the menu gives star billing to the suppliers that keep the pantry full; but the truth is these aren’t the only heroes. Taking the reins in June, new chef Oliwia Bernady has grown in stature and skill preparing a daily

OPEN EVERY DAY 12:00-23:00 GROUND FLOOR WARSAW SPIRE, PLAC EUROPEJSKI 2 +48 668 925 959 WABU@WABU.PL | WWW.WABU.PL WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/WABUSUSHI

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EAT! Listings tinkered menu that opens your eyes to the real tastes of Poland. (E4) ul. Smolna 4, tel. 795 794 784, kafezn.pl Zoni BEST WAWA 2018 “Modern Polish” Housed in a former vodka distillery, the immense interior reveals cast iron kilns, flooring made from recovered vodka barrels and numerous post-industrial pieces that have been lovingly restored.

But the real talking point in Aleksander Baron, a chef nationally known for his devotion to local ingredients and littleknown techniques. We loved the tomato assiette, not to mention a T-bone heavier than an artillery round. Aged in such a way as to allow aspergillus mushrooms to grow into the meat, it’s a glorious piece of cooking that makes the heart roar.

And dessert? A chilled sphere of calf brain mousse the incorporates vanilla, brown butter and caramel. So far, there’s been no better launch this year. (G1) Pl. Konesera 1, muzeumpolskiejwodki.pl

scandinavian Nabo Open-faced Smørrebrød sandwiches are a specialty with toppings including ribbons of herring with curry egg paste and a flurry of greens, but Nabo also extends to cover other aspects of the new Nordic

style: the fish goulash is recommended. ul. Zakręt 8, tel. 22 842 0256, nabocafe.pl

seafood L’Arc French in style, seafood dominates the menu of L’Arc with the lobster and oysters a particular standout. Enjoy it inside a classic interior that feels assuredly upscale. (E8) ul.

Puławska 16, larc.pl Lokal na Rybę Open just three days a week, the limited hours have created a supply / demand situation which sees this basic-looking venue often packed out. The menu is revised on a weekly basis though never really goes beyond three starters and a couple of mains – but that’s all they need to captivate the public. In recent times, octopus goulash and smoked herring pierogi have played distinctive roles. (D9) ul. Kwiatowa 1/3/4, fb.com/lokalnarybe U Rysia Devoid of frills bar a glowing neon sign and a brooding mural of Jesus, it looks like a Polish fish restaurant should – basic but with an undercurrent of bustle that keeps the mood bright. It tastes like

the real thing as well. Sourcing their catch from the freshwater lakes of northern Poland, the offer is divided into fish that have been smoked, steamed, fried or baked. Check out the perch ‘chips’ fried in batter. (C4) ul. Marszałkowska 140 (enter from ul. Rysia), urysia.com.pl

specialty food shops Bazar Olkuska Once a sad little side street, Olkuska has evolved to become just about the worst kept secret in Warsaw. Home to the city’s top eco-market, trips here end with shopping bags filled with French cheeses, Italian hams, Hungarian sausages and fresh fruit and veg. (E10) ul. Olkuska 12 Befsztyk The Prokopowicz family has come a long way since launching Befsztyk in 1994.

Top restaurants, celebs and ex-pats are listed as clients, and all agree that this operation is indisputably ‘top of the chops’. Find steaks seasoned for three weeks, gluten-free smoked meats, Merino lamb, BBQ kits and so much more. Home delivery, internet ordering and English-speaking staff round out this legend. many locations, befsztyk.pl BioBazar With its previous home in Wola undergoing a substantial redevelopment, the BioBazar has moved to Mokotów. At the forefront of Poland’s food revolution, it’s a place that shines a light on ecologically certified goods and produce. Fresh fish, cheese, eggs, bread, cured sausages, honey... on it goes. Comprehensive in its pitch, everything you need to pursue a bright, happy life is here on this spot. ul. Wołoska 3, biobazar.com.pl (B4) ul. Żelazna 51/53, biobazar.org.pl Forteca Kregliccy Spot the stars of Warsaw’s restaurant scene perusing the stalls at this weekly farmers’ market. Held each Wednesday, look for Pan Ziółko, Poland’s first celebrity farmer (!), Portobello’s from the country’s only organic mushroom farm and the magical yogurts from Mleczna

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EAT! Listings Droga Manufaktura Serów. ul. Zakroczymska 12, kregliccy.eu/forteca Hala Gwardii Taking its cue from the market places of Lisbon and Marseilles, Hala Gwardii aims to reprise its former pre-war role as the city’s best-known food market. Designed to complement rather than compete with Hala Mirowska outside, the market is a sensory big bang with dozens of stalls specializing in everything from cheese and sausages, to rolled Thai ice cream and posh pet supplies. (C3) Pl. Mirowska 2, fb.com/halagwardii Kram A supermarket worth your time. Putting small scale producers to the fore, find veggies courtesy of the Majlert farm and grocer Pan Ziołko, daily deliveries from the Mąka i Woda bakery, dairy courtesy of Mleczna Droga, and several cult Polish brands such as Concept Stu Mostów. Craft beers, bio wines, and softs from the likes of Fentimans and Galvanina complete the quite extraordinary lineup. ul. Duchnicka 3, facebook.com/kram.nativeingredients

steak houses Beef n’ Pepper Beef N’ Pepper presents itself in a buzzy urban flash of violet blue lighting, slick banquette seating and open kitchen action. Straight away, you get the feeling of being in a place that’s alive and active, a feeling that’s affirmed by a busy backlit bar from behind which black-shirted staff fling sunny cocktails for the after-work crowd. Of course, it’s the food angle that takes precedence, and at Beef N’ Pepper that translates to a decent choice of surf’n’turf. Highlights include thumping T-bones and a 60-day aged Argentinean top loin. (C5) ul. Nowogrodzka 47A, tel. 785 025 025, beefandpepper.pl Butchery & Wine The Sarf London-born Bertha oven has revolutionized the way steak is cooked, retaining moisture in a way no-one thought possible. Expect robust pieces of animal full of big, brawny tastes, but there’s so much more than just meat:

starters involve a sea bass ceviche that pings with citrusy flavor not to mention more-ish pork crackling that pop like fire bangers in the mouth. A place of energy and ambition, it’s a great mix of both new and classic. Bookings advised.

(D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 502 3118, butcheryandwine.pl Hoża Wine and steak: it sounds simple, but Hoża have taken two simple pleasures to another level. It’s an ebullient space with service right out of charm school, and a kitchen team with a real knowledge of cows. A red-blooded affair, the menu is a steak sensation and well paired with a handpicked wine list. (D5) ul. Hoża 25A, tel.

603 778 275, hoza.warszawa.pl Żebra i Kości More than just steak, head to this smart newbie for Flintstone portions of ribs that thwack down on the table like heavy rounds of artillery. Satisfying all your primal desires, choices run from steamy duck broth to dry-aged tomahawk steaks that’ll take an hour to finish. The beef wellington is a must. High end and upmarket, expect big things to come – full review soon. (D5) ul. Poznańska 38, zebraikosci.pl

thai San Thai Positioned inside a glass-fronted oblong room, San Thai feels chic and smart with just the right amount of Asian masks and decoys to remind you that, yes, you will be eating Thai. Upmarket but never intimidating, the interiors are harmoniously balanced with a menu that whistles with authentic tastes: delicate pouches of steamed homemade dumplings; King Prawns in a snappy phanang curry; and the kind of Pad Thai that could be sent across Poland fulfilling ambassadorial duties for the nation it represents. (C3) ul. Próżna 10, restauracjasanthai.pl Thai Thai A visual feast of ink black colors and shimmering deities this is by far the most formal of Warsaw’s Thai options – and

also the best. Peaks include a grilled beef salad full of citrusy twists, lively flavors and vibrant colors, and sundried pork neck that’s all manly crunch and nose-clearing sauce. And then there’s the tuna tartar, a dish zinging with fresh hits of coriander, mint, lime and chili. There’s no point in complimenting the chef, he’s heard it all before. (C2) Pl. Teatralny 3, tel.

601 818 283, thaithai.pl Thaisty The most successful business model pioneered in recent years? That’s the work of Thaisty, a bright, cheerful spot with a ‘street style’ and moderate prices – queues, at times, stretch out the door.

Vivid colors and a busy open kitchen lend the place a happy buzz that lasts through the day, yet despite this many have voiced concerns that Thaisty’s runaway success has come at a cost to the overall quality.

Even so, the BBQ skewers remain a good order. (C2) Pl. Bankowy 4, tel. 730 000 024, thaisty.pl Why Thai A calming, almost holistic interior sets the tone for a meal dominated by the rich and aromatic tastes of Thailand. For a lively, spicy start begin with a mango and cashew salad, before moving forward and onto their celebrated curries. Imported chefs keep the flavors authentic, with the pad Thai being something of a house favorite. (E5) ul. Wiejska 13, tel. 22 625 7698, whythai.pl

ukrainian Kanapa This swish villa is a thoughtful essay in understated elegance: antique and classy, yet with enough eclectic touches to that add that little sense of home. The food fits the backdrop with cooking that feels adventurous in style yet traditional in its taste. The borscht, presented in a huge, hollowed out cabbage, incorporates cooked beetroot, stewed pears and plums, chunks of meat and a wallop of sour cream – these rich and raucous flavors are offset by highly sophisticated alternatives such as blobs of pike caviar and oyster cream on a delicate, crispy fish skin. (E8) ul. Narbutta 10, fb.com/kanapa. restauracja warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings Rest.Baczewskich A grander opening there has not been this year. Inspired by the cuisine of Old Poland and pre-war Lviv, dishes include Galicianstyle herring and beef cooked in pork fat and served with white porridge and fried cabbage – as classic as they sound, presentation is pure 21st century and fitting of the luxurious surroundings of this one-time palace. Full review coming soon.

(E7) Al. Szucha 17/19, baczewskich.rest

vegan Edamame Vegan Sushi Sushi without its star ingredient sounds ridiculous, but this vegan sushi joint manages to out-manoeuver its traditional competitors by replacing below-par fish with fresh, vegetarian produce: sugar snap peas, radish, carrots, asparagus, etc. The results are both magical and addictive, and leave you wondering if vegan sushi stands to be Warsaw’s next trend. (D5) ul. Wilcza 11, edamame.pl Kuchnia Konfliktu First came a food truck, then a cargo container. Now, Kuchnia Konfliktu have a legit address they can finally call home.

First founded to provide work for refugees fleeing conflict zones, this social project has won acclaim not just for social initiative, but more importantly its food. With employees hailing from the likes of Iran, Afghanistan, Chechnya and Iraq, prepare to dive deep into the exotic. Full review next issue. (D5) ul. Wilcza 60

given a full vegan makeover. Offhand, that’s meant vegan kebabs, cheesesteaks, burgers and zapiekanka, all of which have been pretty damn good. (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, 517 615 122

their manifesto, “is to mix traditional Japanese approaches with Polish creativity and surprise you with new textures and flavors.” Mission accomplished. (D5) ul. Hoża 62, youmiko.vg

Tel Aviv “People shouldn’t be excluded from high standards just because they’ve chosen the vegan path,” says Malka Kafka, the owner of Tel Aviv. As such, find a plantbased menu that gives the tastes of Israel a fancy schmancy style – so fancy that Depeche Mode ate here last summer! (D5) ul. Poznanska 11, restauracjatelaviv.pl

vietnamese

Soup Culture In a nod to environmental awareness, Soup Culture have dispensed of plastic entirely to instead serve an array of vegan and vegetarian soups from delicious bread mugs produced using freshly prepped dough. Look for seasonal sips such as cooling gazpacho or a pearparsley effort with thyme and coconut milk. Al. Jana Pawła II 38 & ul. Pańska 67 Uki Green A union of two of Warsaw’s favorite fads, Uki Green presents vegan ramen noodles inside a minimalistic interior that’s big on Japanese wood joints and concrete finishes. Brought to you by the owner of Uki Uki, the menu includes alternatives such as kimchi-cheese gyoza dumplings, spiced soy meat and ‘vegan eel’. It’s been open three minutes, but already Warsaw has found a new object of affection – visit.

(D6) ul. Koszykowa 49A

Leonardo Verde Geometric patterns, plant arrangements and the large format illustrative artwork of Dominique A. Faryno decorate Leonardo Verde, an upmarket – but inexpensive – Italian joint. Pizza is the forte – order the ‘hot romantic’, a combo featuring chili, avocado and tabasco. (D5) ul. Poznańska 13, fb.com/leonardo.verde.restaurant

Vegan Ramen Shop Co-joining two fads is always a risky business – just ask Loco Mexicana. All of a sudden, the focus doesn’t fall on just getting one thing right, but two. But despite this double-headed challenge Vegan Ramen have struck gold on account of their complex bowls of restorative goodness: their fan base extends way beyond the boundaries of Saska Kępa. Enjoy in a cool interior filled with cute Japanese props on dozens of ‘levitating shelves’.

(G3) ul. Finlandzka 12A

Lokal Vegan Bistro Aside from a small menu consisting of more standard vegan offers, Lokal keep Homer Simpson characters in mind with regular guest slots for street food that’s

Youmiko Vegan Sushi Exceptional in every respect, Youmiko’s tasting menu is one of the undisputed highlights of what’s become known as the vegan square mile. “Our aim,” declares

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Oh My Pho A busy, family-run joint, OMP’s specific claim to fame is what many are terming the best and most authentic pho in the ward. Steamy and aromatic, this is pho as it should be: full of big herby thwacks, ribboning noodles, and soft strips of meat in a clear, restorative stock. Often cited as being the ‘soul of the nation’, just a few noisy slurps are all that’s needed to corroborate the life-affirming goodness of this beautiful broth... (D5) ul. Wilcza 32, fb.com/ohmyphowilcza Toan Pho Toan Pho’s bowls of soup with rice noodles come highly recommended; as does the chaos intrinsic to this type of casual Asian eatery. The short menu is in Vietnamese with Polish decoding – although you can ask for an English version. (D4) ul. Chmielna 5/7 Ukim Though not as high profile as Warsaw’s other gastro streets, Chłodna’s emergence has been no less spectacular. But fine dining and fancy wine bars aside, it’s actually the more standard venues that make the area feel so vibrant. Take Ukim, a cheerful joint decorated with steel Tolix chairs and blooming palms. Covering vast tracts of Asia, the menu, for the most part, feels enjoyable and authentic in equal measure: start with duck and mango spring rolls before moving onto mains such as crispy, sticky chicken in tamarind sauce. (B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, ukim.pl Viet Street Food Bistro What started out as a roaming food truck has settled down into life as a legitimate restaurant. Widely looked upon as the source of some of the best Vietnamese chow this city’s ever seen, the small menu contains steaming bowls of pho and banh mi baguettes loaded with meat and greens: both are brill. (H4) ul. Królowej Aldony 5/2, fb.com/vietstreetfoodpl

EAT! Listings

PHOTOGRAPH MARTA SZCZEPAŃSKA COURTESY OF POGŁOS

DRINK!

LIVE AND LET LIVE

Scuzzy and a bit seamy, this alt. performance venue gives Warsaw an interesting, if not utterly random direction with an events schedule that involves spoken word performances, vegan BBQs, old skool rave nights and hardcore gigs from bands with names like Cancer Bats and Moscow Death Brigade. They’ve had bingo nights, as well – hosted by the irrepressible Charlotte Drag Queer. In a city that’s always felt a little lacking in the ‘live’ department, Pogłos punches past sensibility to present evenings that are raw, uncompromising and always high on action. In May, that means a night inspired by The Smiths on the 4th and American punk legend King Khan on the 14th.

Pogłos ul. Burakowska 12, fb.com/klubpoglos

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drink! Review

DIAMONDS IN THE ROUGH

Not just limited to the center, the capital’s obsession with specialty coffee has penetrated even the darkest, most distant suburbs. And you bet we’ve got our faves!

BIELANY Al. Zjednoczenia 46 Definitely distant, but there are those that travel the city to visit – if you take coffee seriously, then you will as well. Home to the city’s best flat white (fact!), this husband and wife operation is warm in ambiance and appearance, and the drive for quality reflected by their habitual acquisition of the latest equipment.

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PHOTOGRAPHS FACEBOOK

Czytelnia

GROCHÓW

U Krawca

ul. Siennicka 3 Blue-collar Grochów isn’t everyone’s cup of tea, but this café has done much to swing the area’s rep into credit. Creaky floorboards and references to the address’s former function as a tailor’s shop lend a warmth that’s particularly pronounced once the overhead draftsman’s lamps are switched on. Homemade cakes, hipster colas and coffee sourced from the likes of Gesha keep it packed with a friendly crowd of local aficionados.

MOKOTÓW

Relaks

ul. Puławska 48 Now in their ninth year of business, any Hall of Fame (suburban or otherwise) just wouldn’t feel complete without the inclusion of this evergreen institution. Jacketed in chipboard panels and retro posters, the buzz about Relaks has lasted so long as to become ingrained in their DNA. MURANÓW

FatWhite_CoffeeBar

ul. Andersa 6 You’d hardly call Muranów the middle of nowhere, but that’s what it can feel like if you happen to live there. So praise be FatWhite! Attached to the hippest, most Instagram-able barber’s in town, highlights include a rocking cold brew, wickedly friendly staff and a half-mad collection of toy action figures.

for.rest

ul. Nabielaka 8/10

PRAGA PÓŁNOC

Originating as a store selling cool ceramics and lavish green succulents, the number of dawdling customers meant that adding coffee to the offer was a natural step. Wouldn’t you know it, people loved it even more.

Sourcing a diverse range of coffee from the locallybased Java roasters, this beautiful indoor jungle is a true one-off.

Hałas Vinyl + Coffee

TA R C H O M I N

ul. Jagiellońska 30 At 15 sq/m it’s a squeeze but Hałas doesn’t half pack a punch within its small footprint. Doubling as a record store, it’s the kind of place where hip punters stock up on Winehouse and Bjork while ordering up coffee ordered from roasters such as London’s Dark Arts roastery. In summer, the outdoor bench is the sweet spot everyone wants to occupy.

S A S K A K Ę PA

Francuska 30

ul. Francuska 30 The terrace is the place to be, sat shaded from the sun by dozens of brollies that dangle overhead.

The coffee, brewed using Chemex, Aeropress and Drip methods, is a big deal, and complimented by French crepes served from a combi van parked outside. Inside, it’s cool, minimal and reassuringly artistic.

SIELCE

Ceramiczna

ul. Ceramiczna 20 Chanelling the spirit of the PRL era, Ceramiczna is, undisputedly, the best reason you’ll find for visiting Tarchomin. In a nod to the local ceramics factory, find a bar composed of porcelain fragments, vintage LOT flight posters and retro armchairs competing with strategic pot plants and modern day ceramics from the acclaimed Fenek studio.

WILANÓW

Plakatówka ul. Hlonda 2

Boldly decorated with posters, bunting and vibrantlycolored old school armchairs, this Wilanów mainstay is firmly embedded in the hearts of the local community. Filling a dual role as a bookstore, this family friendly space cranks out by far the best specialty coffee in the postcode. warsawinsider.pl

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drink! Listings bars & pubs Bar Pacyfik Seemingly based upon the kind of Tijuana dive bar you’d have happened upon during the Miami Vice era, Pacyfik is all candy floss pink and shades of teal: a raw-looking den that looks purposefully imperfect. Keeping the hip international crowd on the wrong side of drunk are kick-ass drinks such as their Clamado Michelada or Kimchi Bloody Mary – three sips and you think you’re Superman. Don’t think you’re leaving early. (C5) ul. Hoża 61 Bar Studio The bombastic, gaudy surrounds of the Palace of Culture are brilliantly juxtaposed against a varied program of events that slot perfectly with the artsy spirit of the activists and intellectuals that comprise the regulars. It’s a party to remember.

(C4) Pl. Defilad 1, barstudio.pl

Beirut They’ve smashed a wall through though that’s still not enough to accommodate the crowd. Adorned with detritus inspired by the Lebanese conflict (ammox boxes, sandbags and… a bomb), by day find media types posturing by their Macs. At night, the air of cool dissolves into a wild, happy whirl of international voices. (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, beirut.com.pl

Central Bar The natural focal point of Hala Koszyki, this ever-stretching bar gives the vigorous impression of being bang in the middle of somewhere that’s nailed the city’s imagination – certainly, the buzz from the beginning has shown no sign of fading.

Bonus points for a rather good Pimm’s.

Without fail, it remains Warsaw’s favorite meeting point. (D6) Hala Koszyki Gram Head up the stairs from Warmut (see Cocktails) to uncover Gram, a small room designed to evoke the feeling of stepping inside a circus tent. Set with arcade games (Pac-Man! Space Invaders!!), it’s a super fun space with a fridge of craft beers and quirky little details: look up and you’ll find monkey figures parachuting from the ceiling! You are, in effect, inside a playground for adults. (D6) ul.

Marszałkowska 45/49

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Koko & Roy Already appearing in our Restaurant section, a growing reputation for long, merry nights is enough to earn Koko & Roy a second listing in the mag. Drink carefully composed cocktails and craft beers from the epic Stu Mostow brewery in an American-run resto-bar that’s starting to attract the full gamut of expat nationalities. An upmarket but quirky décor (Princess Leah on the wall, Antony Bourdain in the toilet) is matched by a maverick playlist, spontaneous atmosphere and open hours that have a habit of becoming seriously flexible when the weekend arrives. (D5) ul. Wilcza 43

bar is traumatic. (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl.

Kraken Rum Bar Named after one of the ocean’s most feared mythical creatures (the scary squid from Pirates of the Caribbean), the woodclad Kraken features a wall of cymbals, heavy furniture and some interesting photography. While there’s some decent bottles of rum, there’s perhaps not enough to justify calling it a rum bar. The place rocks though. (D5) ul. Poznańska

Sheesha Lounge Providing you don’t mind sharing the weekend with some of the most gloriously gorgeous people in the city, then a trip to Sheesha ticks all the boxes. Presenting itself in a whirl of action, the exotic, clubby atmosphere hits fever pitch come the midnight hour. Earlier, soak up the atmosphere with a scented hookah while lounging under eastern lights. (D5) Al.

12, fb.com/KrakenRumBar

Jerozolimskie 33, sheesha.pl

Legends Run by Graham, an ex-embassy bod and devout Everton fan (well, someone has to be), this Brit pub has become the de facto choice when the football is on. Or the rugby. Or the cricket. Or just about any other sport that expats care to watch.

Whether it’s the Champions League or Bristol City on a wet, Tuesday night, there’s just no better space for boozy banter while the match unfolds. (C5) ul.

Stixx It takes a moment to allow the sheer magnitude of Stixx sink in. Having adjusted to the wow factor of the interior – which can best be described as cosmopolitan-industrial – most retreat to the long, all weather deck which in itself is quite something: the aesthetics are such that a cocktail party on an oligarch’s yacht comes to mind. There aren’t many better places for a drink when the roof is rolled back and the stars twinkle above. (A4) Pl.

Emilii Plater 25, legendsbar.pl

Zbawiciela), planb.pl

Przystań Nowa Fala If nothing else, 2018 will be remembered as the year the Wisła finally kicked-on to go more upmarket. Playing more than a bit part in all that is Przystań, a gorgeous, moored vessel with ample seating both inside and out. On the first level, order from a bar well-stocked with craft beers, world wines and funky cocktails, before heading to the open upstairs deck to join a fun, cosmopolitan crowd stretched out under the stars. (E2) Bulwar Gen. George’a Smitha Pattona

Europejski 4A, tel. 22 340 4040, stixx.pl

Między Nami With 18 years of service under their belt you may think of Między Nami as being an antiquated has-been. Not so. Haunted by a mix of media types and local characters, this hip white piece of post-commie Warsaw has an enduring, almost timeless appeal. (D4) ul. Bracka 20, miedzynamicafe. com

Plan B Plan B is the very essence of dive Warsaw.

Weekends pass by in a raucous blur, with the party spilling out under the colonnades outside – it helps to look like a DJ, but in truth everyone is welcome.

The hangover from this shabby, grubby

Targowy Nestled beneath Ed Red lies Targowy, a long bar cast in dim blue lights and permanent shadow: design thrills are minimal, but there’s a special something at work here, an X-factor of sorts.

Occupied simply by high tables and a bar composed of colored, plastic crates, what it lacks in visuals it makes up for via an offer that feels diverse and democratic: a smattering of craft beer, hardcore vodka, decent cocktails served by enthusiastic bar dudes. Simple in concept (“let’s create a bar with something for everyone,” you imagine the owners saying), but it really does work. (B3) Pl. Mirowski 1

Drink! Listings

drink! Listings W Oparach Absurdu Somewhere, buried beneath the Persian rugs, dusty velvety drapes and wobbling antiques, you may find a bar. On your way, obstacles in this louche dive may include vodka fueled grans, script-writing beatniks and the trumpet tooting members of a Balkan band. Expect the unexpected.

(F1) ul. Ząbkowska 6, oparyabsurdu.pl

Warszawa Powiśle The prime months for this former ticket booth arrive each summer when the deckchairs outside provide ample opportunity for the city’s young and fashionable to gather in an almost carnival-like atmosphere. Once seen as the hipster Center of Power, it still maintains great popularity with whiskered, tattooed sorts. (E4) ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B, warszawapowisle.pl

Worek Kości H.P. Lovecraft would love it. Decorated with replica skulls (400 reckons the owner!), this place is nothing if not a passionate celebration of the beautiful and bizarre. Burlesque shows are their specialty, but at other times don’t be too shocked to stumble in on meetings with private detectives, seminars with criminal profilers or gigs by bands with names such as Bipolar Order. Crazy, brilliant, etc., and ideal for a night with a difference. (E7) ul. Bagatela 10

Wozownia Founded by the same people behind the ‘ruin bar’ inside the original Hala Koszyki (back when it was a decrepit pile of wobbly, black stonework), Wozownia brings together the hip and beautiful inside a 200-year-old carriage house.

The beer front is pretty dull, but the cocktails can be outstanding whilst the Prosecco is pretty much the cheapest glass of bubbles you’ll uncover in the city.

A sensation over summer, it’s one of the top pre-club spots in the center. Pl. Trzech Krzyży 16, fb.com/WozowniaBar

there’s even a communal table), and improved it with excellent breads and a crowd that’s a little less pleased with itself. (E7) ul. Bagatela 14, bycmoze.com.pl Coffeedesk Looking flawless in her pearl white colors, Coffeedesk is a place that does it right. Brewed by expert coffeeologists, the humble cup of Joe becomes an object of adoration. Populated round-the-clock by head-phoned freelancers and digital nomads tapping into their Macs, it’s a light, bright spot with a dynamic style and a keen sense of sexy. (D5 ul. Wilcza 42, fb. com/coffeedeskwilcza

Cophi So small you get the idea you could fit Cophi into the palm of your hand, yet no other place in Warsaw is more devoted to sourcing the best coffees in the world.

(D5) ul. Hoża 58/60

FatWhite_CoffeeBar Attached to a super cool barber shop (tatts, beards, crazy whiskers!), this tiny café has a beauty of an interior: swan white with surfaces graced by contemporary artwork that references the Muranów district and dozens of collectible superhero figures (plus a gun-toting Pacino). There’s a real scene going on here, with daylight hours usually packing out with social media types and urban fashionistas. Disarmingly friendly, it’s somewhere near the top of the Insider’s ‘must visit’ cafes. (C1) ul. Andersa 6 Forum Born with Instagram in mind, Forum has it all: super cool Afro-haired staff, a fashionably frayed interior, and a devoted client base that’s all about out-sized headphones and razor-thin laptops.

Changing weekly, the big pull is a menu of specialty coffees from acclaimed roasters such as Five Elephant and The Coffee Collective fixed up by Poland’s AeroPress and Brewers Cup champion. (C3) ul.

Elektoralna 11, forum.coffee

cafés Być Może It’s all about artisan bread and breakfast in the industrial looking Być Może. It’s taken the concept of Charlotte (groan,

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Lapidarium It’s high time that the Old Town Square had a café worth visiting, but would have thought that it would be a museum providing such? Run under the aegis of the Museum of Warsaw, visitors choose from rustic meals prepped locally by

Gospoda Kwiaty Polskie, regional beers, Polish wine from Mierzęcin Palace and tea courtesy of Harney & Sons. Enjoy these in minimalistic vaulted interiors or in a soothingly calm courtyard garden stacked with gargoyles and other historic elements. (D1) Rynek Starego Miasto 40, lapidariumcafe.com

Kawiarnia Kawałek This neighborhood café offers a human touch in an area filling itself with gleaming glass blocks and gated compounds. Acting as a magnetic force, the homemade nitro machine (“I just like making things,” says the owner), is a thing of legend. (B4) ul. Łucka 18, fb.com/ KawiarniaKawalek

Labour Cafe Labour Café’s door crashes open onto a busy space that sets bare raw materials of steel, wood, concrete and brick against lashings of plant life and bursts of poster art. But if the front part is all about catching up with friends and soaking up the vibe over bagels and ‘ethical’ coffee, then outback is where the serious stuff happens – discover a studiously quiet dual-level working space featuring a printer, flipcharts and plentiful light. (E4) ul. Tamka 49, labour.pl

Ministerstwo Kawy Sourcing their coffee from Koppi, an internationally acclaimed Swedish roasting house, the ministry takes no short cuts in their pursuit of excellence.

Utilizing Ethiopian, Costa Rican and Brazilian arabicas – some exclusive to Poland – barista Wojciech Rzytki has earned a reputation across Poland for his expert hand. Rave reviews are standard and appropriate. (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 27, ministerstwokawy.pl

Relaks Expertly prepared, right down to the foam art, the baristas here use the finest imported machines and work only with fair trade, ‘specialty’ coffee. If you have time, the drip coffees are more than worth the wait. The crowded interiors supply a retro accent, and are enjoyed by a fashion aware, laptop-touting crowd.

(E9) ul. Puławska 48

Relax Na Wilczej Characterized by structured simplicity,

drink! Listings it’s a venue that maximizes space and light. Never overly complex, clean lines of vision are interrupted only by a scattering of coffee tomes and a statement mural

by Mariusz Tarkawian. Calm and intuitive, it’s an interior that feels both effective and efficient. And as for the coffee: one sip and you’re hooked. Order the silky smooth nitro. (D5) ul. Wilcza 17

space unwraps before you like some elaborate adventure. Candles flicker, atmosphere crackles – moving towards the bar, slinky, sultry club creatures of unfathomable beauty prowl past with drinks poised in hand. Heating up gradually as the night progresses, Ritual moves organically from being a voluptuous bar to a spicy club as the night ebbs towards its heady conclusion.

Stor Buying their coffee from revered roasters such as Berlin’s Bonanza and Stockholm’s Drop Coffee, Stor have grown to become a giant presence on Warsaw’s café map. Visitors bask in natural light amid outbreaks of greenery and quirky design touches: time runs away here and before you know it hours have passed.

(D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, ritualwarsaw.com

ul. Tamka 33, fb.com/storcafe

clubs Luztro Don’t sit down, you won’t know what you might catch. Dark and generally filthy, Warsaw’s most (in)famous club only gets going around about three. As the hours click towards daybreak, the scenes of depravity are like something from Sodom and Gomorrah. Enjoyed by zombies that quite definitely don’t have to be up for work anytime in the next 48 hrs, it’s not just the full-on techno that will leave the brain rattling – it’s the craziest night in Poland! (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, luztro.pl N58 The latest entry on Warsaw’s club circuit have issued a manifesto promising deep vocal house, r’n’b, mash-ups and theme nights centered around Afro Beats / trap / twerk and hip hop. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58

Smolna Helping to fan the ‘sense of secret’, the no-cellphone policy (you cover the camera with a sticker) ensures a zero amount of berks recording the shenanigans that await. Allow the names they’ve pulled do the talking – past events include sets by Pete Tong, Laurent Garnier and Hercules & Love Affair. If those names mean nothing then it’s not your place. (E4) ul. Smolna 38

Maja 16/18A, Most Poniatowskiego

Spatif The varied music policy shines a light on a revolving schedule of sounds, pinning its attention on everything from jazz and soul to Britpop and electro.

Spread across a series of chambers decorated with vintage fittings, parquet floors and wood-paneled walls, Spatif’s main success lies in replicating that fun, spontaneous feel of a house party that’s spiraled out of control: no matter their individual back story, everyone gets on (and occasionally gets off). Just about the most unpretentious club night you’ll find, this labyrinthine pre-war tenement feels fun, diverse and never up its own arse.

Ritual Looking dark and sensual, this two-level

The View Because who doesn’t love partying under

No Comment A secret world for those In The Know, find No Comment in a seedy-looking tower under Poniatowski Bridge. Clad in decadent, blue velvety surfaces, this tiny bi-level club feels redolent of an afterhours Parisian members club: everyone seems to know each other, and after a bottle of bubbles you will as well. (F4) Al. 3

Sen Entering this top-floor joint, visitors are hit by a tidal wave of gorgeousness: wallto-wall with George Clooney lookalikes, off-duty celebrities and catwalk glamor pusses, the carefree hedonism is like something from a film – only tonight, you’re one of the stars. Sod the bank account, you think, bring me champagne: enjoy just that on a terrace deck slung with Edison bulbs, or indoors in an area festooned with deluxe sofas and floor-toceiling windows that stare out onto the National Stadium opposite. The good life doesn’t get any better. (F4) ul. Wioślarska 6

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palms on the rooftop deck of a 32-floor skyscraper? The glam and the gorgeous certainly do, and The View continues to feel as spectacular now as it did when it opened. A place of bubbles and beauties, it’s the definition of five-star, NYC-style clubbing. (C4) ul. Twarda 18, theview.pl

cocktails 6 Cocktails If 6 Cocktails has the feeling of hanging around someone’s flat that’s because, actually, you are. This posh Mokotowska apartment has been re-adapted as an exclusive bar frequented by leggy models and society figures: the parties are nuts!

Unmarked from street level, to enjoy the inventive cocktails message them on FB and await your invite. (E5) ul. Mokotowska 57

Back Room Plush fabrics, muted lighting, intuitive service, a well-scrubbed crowd, a flickering fireplace and shelves displaying drinks as if they were trophies: the ambiance is nailed down to such an extent that those who use this speakeasy for pre-club drinks often find themselves skipping the club bit altogether. And why bother with anywhere else when you have masterpiece cocktails that are immaculate, imaginative and mixed with practiced expertise. The close quarters of the venue and playful nature of the guests make accidental conversation something of an occurrence. It’s a social place – be sociable! (D6) ul. Koszykowa 49A, fb.com/ BackRoomWarsaw

Biała Saska’s premier cocktail spot reaches its zenith each summer thanks to a leafy back garden that stands shaded by this modernist building: it’s worth visiting just to swan down the spiral stairs with a glass of something bubbly. ul. Francuska 2, fb.com/bialazjedziwypij

Ceviche Bar The ‘bar’ bit in the name isn’t a deceit, it’s there for a reason: here, the design, DJs and drinks work seamlessly to generate an ambiance that’s buzzy, energetic and something of a scene.

Yet though the cocktails have long been

drink! Listings celebrated, the ante’s been upped by a new ‘Nikkei’ card that combines Peruvian and Japanese techniques and ingredients.

Of the standouts, none earn higher praise than the Matero, a mix of Japanese yuzu citruses and Pisco infused with Yerba Mate. You won’t stop at one. (C4) ul. Twarda

– such as the smoking Out Of The Box – are insanely good, and served in a small, high-ceilinged interior busy with framed vintage posters, cyan-colored wallpaper, baffling photos of Lynch-esque scenes and gleaming strainers and shakers. (D4) ul. Wojciecha Górskiego 9, elkoktel.pl

4, cevichebar.pl

Charlie Crowd: glam & vampy. The venue: equally so. Occupying the first floor of a pre-war tenement, there’s a magic here that summons the age of F. Scott Fitzgerald – Gatsby would love it. The ace in the pack is a ‘subconscious menu’ from which clients order mystery cocktails based on their scent. (E6) ul. Mokotowska 39 El Koktel The pert and pretty are here, so too the well-groomed modern man, but there’s a balance to the crowd that prevents any whiff of snob. As a bar it feels open-minded, engaging and intelligent, and those are traits that rub off on those present. Drinks

La Sirena Though primarily known as the best Mexican restaurant in the country, the cocktails are of such a standard that it’s become impossible to ignore La Sirena’s credentials as an exceptional bar as well.

Fixed using a range of premium tequilas, the innovative tastes feel all the better for the intriguing surrounds: walls of corrugated iron and peeling plaster are coordinated with crossed machetes, shrill neon and decorative tiles. The final effect brings to mind a deadly cool recreation of a drug baron’s jailhouse cell. (D5) ul.

Piękna 54

oak, striking art and soft tan leather, it’s a venue that writes a new chapter in the 160-year story of the venerable Europejski Hotel. Intuitive service, sophisticated drinks and an interior that feels timeless yet historic in equal measure – for the full Raffles experience, order from their choice of signature Slings. (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13 (Raffles Europejski), raffles.com/warsaw

Podwale Bar & Books Though it doesn’t have to be winter to enjoy Podwale Bar & Books, T C itRdefinitely helps. Seen through frosted, P T M foggy windows it’s a venue that reveals C W ≈ a place of dark, delicious colors itself as W C ≈ and air. Occupying the kind of C rarefied C ≈ charismatic gatehouse you’d read about T ≈ in Dickens, position yourself in front of the P E ≈ L S fireplace for a celebratory cigar upstairs and a BglassB of something tall and lovely: P the cocktails are in a class of their own HE MOST

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Wąski Dunaj 20, 00-256 Warsaw Tel.: +48 225.599.199

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12.08.15 20:49

A F R E N C H R E V E L AT I O N REDOLENT OF A PARISIEN COURTYARD BAKERY, YOU’LL SMELL THE AROMA OF OUR FRESHLY BAKED BREAD FROM DAWN. OPEN THROUGH THE DAY, WE’RE DELIGHTED TO SERVE OUR FAMOUS BREAKFASTS, TRADITIONAL PASTRIES NOT TO MENTION A SELECTION OF WINES FOR YOUR DINNER. WE LOOK FORWARD TO WELCOMING YOU.

Być Może

ul. Bagatela 14

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Drink! Listings and specifically customized for the season.

(D2) ul. Wąski Dunaj 20, barandbooks.pl

an original signed copy of the world’s first cocktail handbook (published: 1862!). (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 11

Reginabar Hip and happening, the concept at Reginabar is a wacky amalgam that mixes elements of New York’s Little Italy with China Town next door. The menu rocks, but find it augmented by a dynamic cocktail list that reflects the crazy things happening in Warsaw’s world of drinks: that means, the regular sips aside, ‘magic cocktails’ with names such as Power Spells and Star Dust. Dazzly and mysterious, lap these up in an interior that joins the retro with the avant garde. (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, fb.com/ Reginakoszykowa1

The Roots Having recruited some of the top bartenders in Poland, The Roots have a serious artillery on which to rely. So committed is this haunt, its walls are graced by a vast collection of cocktail memorabilia: antique jiggers, shakers, coolers, not to mention

Warmut Set in the Commie era No Man’s Land between Zbawiciela and Konstytucji, it’s become one of the hottest nights in town. This vermouth-inspired cocktail bar features classic and house creations, and a spectacular design involving street art, greenery and mirrored walls. But the piece de resistance? Those are the scale models of local landmarks that hang from the ceiling. Instagram them now before everyone else does. And don’t forget to head up the stairs to their cool little sister, Gram (see Bars). (D6) ul. Marszałkowska

a crystal chandelier and a wooden bar carved from a British carousel. A work of refined craftsmanship, the cocktails stand out as the most sophisticated in the city. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 11

craft beer

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Artezan Pub The country has crazier breweries for sure, but does it have anyone more consistent than the lads at Artezan. Famed for their Pacific – the quintessential domestic IPA – Artezan’s flagship bar is a standard bearer not just for quality, but for Poland as a whole. (D4) ul. Moniuszki 1A

Weles Named after the Slavic god of the underworld, everything about Weles evokes the spirit of indulgence: a zinc 1920s ceiling imported from the States,

Chmielarnia Musty, muggy, murky. Head into the basement depths of the fishing institute to discover Chmielarnia, a subterranean tap bar where artisan beers rule

warsawinsider.pl

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drink! Listings the roost: check the ‘glass tomb’ filled with mainstream macro lagers. The bar gets loud and rackety, sweaty and sticky, and seems especially popular with geeks and know-it-alls discussing their beer’s ‘finish’ and ‘nose’. (B4) ul. Twarda 42 Craft Beer Muranów Humble and unpretentious, CBM’s rising stock has been reflected by their recruitment of Marcin Chmielarz, one of the best-known ‘beer managers’

in Poland. But even before him, this basic-looking joint was already making ripples for its consistency: a dodgy pint is totally unheard of. ul. Andersa 23, fb.com/

drinking solutions from Europe’s most radical breweries. Looks great, tastes great, a factor that ensure a male-tofemale ratio that feels roughly equal. (D5)

craftbeermuranow

ul. Nowogrodzka 4

Cuda Na Kiju Where it all began. Summer catches Warsaw’s original tap bar at its best, with the courtyard of the former Communist Party HQ now home to an entirely different kind of party: on occasions find food trucks and film screenings, and all other times just a massive crowd getting sloshed on 15 types of tap beer. But even outside the sweaty months Cuda is worth the visit: drink inside a modern, glass cube that’s refreshingly contemporary.

Jabeerwocky Drowned in boisterous babble and general pub racket, the affable Jabbers is home to what most rate as the most adventurous choice of craft beer in the city: pioneering international breweries are well represented, but don’t overlook the sensational drinks produced by Jabeerwocky’s very own master brewer.

(E4) ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, cudanakiju.pl

Cześć It started as a café, but now Cześć is better known as being at the forefront of the new generation of ‘quali-tap’ bars – small little places with six or so beers on tap. The two owners, Piotrek and Kuba, take their beer seriously, so do expect plenty of new finds as well as traditional favorites from stalwarts like Artezan and Pinta. The laidback, neighborhood atmosphere is making it increasingly popular with a tight-knit circle of ex-pat drinkers. (C3) ul. Grzybowska 2 (through the side passage), czesc.waw.pl

Czeska Baszta Contained within a grotty bridge support, divey Czeska is permanently immersed in a foggy, yellow glow. Boisterous but extremely friendly, there’s a reason for all the man hugs and back slaps: everyone’s smashed! The frothy pints of lager are sourced from the owner’s favorite small town breweries, and the fridge kept stocked courtesy of his own cross-border forays. (E4) Tower 22A, Most Poniatowskiego, czeskabaszta.pl

Drugie Dno The natural start (or finish) point of any Nowogrodzka pub crawl, head to The Double D for a space that conjures to mind a disused power station: sporting rugged brickwork and a scuffed style, the neo-industrial look is ramped up with the liberal use of steel girders, vintage voltage meters and toilets disguised as elevator shafts. Sixteen taps to drink through, many of them offering extreme

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(D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 12, taproom.pl

Kufle i Kapsle Found somewhere round the top of Warsaw’s hierarchy of craft beer bars, Kufle welcomes all, from entry level novices taking their first steps in the beery world to note-taking nerds conducting research for their blogs. Interiors are respectful of the building’s pre-war heritage and are thick with noise, clamor and the reassuring smell of spillage. The edgy beer selection becomes is even more radical when you look down in the fridge. (D5) ul.

Nowogrodzka 25 Maryensztadt Craft Beer It’s a mixed crowd of locals and tourists that gather in Maryensztadt, a large bar whose 12 taps showcase the highs (and occasional lows) produced by the brewery that gives this pub its name. Set across a series of cavernous chambers inside an attractive Old Town property, its not just beer buffs that it appeals to: sourcing their ingredients from small-scale farmsteads, the kitchen wing of Maryensztadt does a convincing job of representing the tastier side of regional Poland. (D1) ul.

Szeroki Dunaj 11

Mikkeller Bar Warsaw A complete geek-gasm of ultra-niche, rare foreign finds, the onus on Scandinavian beers guarantees steep prices that have been known to reach (and even exceed) the zł. 50 mark. Ouch. In return, you’re getting blinding beers that break brewing boundaries – past examples include yuzu Berliner Weisse, triple barrel-aged imperial beetroot stout and watermelon & pomegranate IPA. Not for cheapskates, if nothing else the presence of a Mikkeller pub makes Warsaw feel a well-rounded,

Drink! Listings 21st century city. (D4) ul. Chmielna 7/9, fb.com/MikkellerBarWarsaw

a telling indicator that says much for their approval rating. (D1) ul. Nowomiejska 11/13

Same Krafty Squashed into two narrow, rugged rooms decorated with benches and rough plaster walls, Same Krafty have rescued Old Town from big beer brands peddling piss.

Offering artisan alternatives, this intimate bar lures daring tourists looking to explore the more subversive side of Polish brewing. Sustenance comes by way of big wheels of pizza that are surprisingly good.

(D1) ul. Nowomiejska 10

Same Krafty Vis-à-vis When it comes to pubs, Same Krafty tops any Old Town hit list, but try getting served at peak drinking time. No problem, head five meters opposite to Bar No. 2.

Pass under a dragon’s head before stepping into a supremely friendly room with ten taps, a strong bottle line-up and an atmospheric side chamber. You will find tourists, but locals are often the majority,

for gentlemen Playhouse Housed in a former subterranean bomb shelter, the talk now is of bombshells: namely the 57 stunners they’ve got listed on their books. Inspired by high class joints in London and Vegas, it’s a refined choice with a no-pressure atmosphere and door staff that don’t look like they’re going to kick your head in. (B3) Al. Solidarności 82A, playhouse.pl

live music Hydrozagadka Set out in the wildlands of Praga,

consider Hydrozagadka as the heart of unforced cool. Known for its alternative music scene, the low-ceiling and tight, crowded nature of it generate an electrifying atmosphere where the audience and band become one. Walking a fine line between industrial and straight out decrepit, the atmosphere is second to none: drinks flow, strangers meet and music smashes out: you can feel something special happening here. ul. 11 Listopada 22, hydrozagadka.waw.pl

Klub Pogłos Arguably Warsaw’s No. 1 venue for alternative music, Pogłos checks all the requisite boxes: a divey, gritty look, a liberal atmosphere and an army of fans willing and eager to embrace the seamier side of night. The packed program of events runs from spoken word performances and vegan BBQs, to sweaty tribute concerts celebrating The Smiths. At other times, you’ll be listening to touring Berlin-based bands,

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drink! Listings hardcore DJs or psychedelic soul from the likes of King Khan And The Shrines.

If it’s weird, it’s on. ul. Burakowska 12, fb. com/klubpoglos

Niebo Noted for the diversity of its events program, Niebo does it all: from comedy nights to vintage markets via performances from cult acts such as Neneh Cherry and Black Sun Empire.

The gritty look complements the artsy, off-radar airs perfectly. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat

vodka Dom Wódki Those expecting Dom Wódki to be a standard mucky shot bar are in for a surprise. Sparkling with over 250 artisanal vodkas, find them incorporated into inspirational drinks mixed by Tomasz Małek, a world champion flair bartender. More than just show, the tastes are incredible. (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl

21, fb.com/niebo

WuWu Open round-the-clock, this 24-hour bar is the place in which to enjoy a prodigious choice of vodka inside a chic, dimly-lit environment that resounds to the singalong hits of communist Poland.

Under illuminated tubes of light, find an upmarket, sharply turned-out crowd enjoying a place that elevates the all night concept by an extra level or two.

(G1) Pl. Konesera 1

wine bars TRY OUR BUBBLE-WAFLLES WITH HOME MADE ARTISAN GELATO. Nowogrodzka 15 Al. Jana Pawła II 43/25 Francuska 48 Hala Koszyki

Ale Wino!

Without doubt, peak time is the summer when drinkers congregate on a courtyard deck shielded by a sail.

But winter ain’t so bad either with this covert wine bar unraveling to reveal a series of little chambers. The wine choice is comprehensive and it’s ably supported by some of the best cooking in the city: chef Sebastian Wełpa is one of Warsaw’s great, golden talents.

(E5) ul. Mokotowska 48, alewino.pl

tel. 509 912 282 www.melody.pl

Bubbles Behold, the city’s most prodigious choice of champagne! Though price points can climb high, more affordable options are prevalent. Excellent cocktails, wonderful slow food choices and a charmingly cluttered interior add to the appeal. In summer, the canopied terrace is ideal for pre-theater drinks or date night with the partner. (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, bubbles.com.pl

Dekant Wine Bar Set inside an attractive open space, the opening of Dekant is a further indication of Powiśle’s shift from hipster epicenter

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to upscale playground (Robert Lewandowski has been spotted here!). The list comprises over 400 wines from the most prestigious producers in the world, right the way down to tiny, little vineyards you’ve probably never heard of. If the sun is out, aim for a place on their back terrace. (E3) ul. Zajęcza 15, dekant.com.pl

Dyletanci The archetypal all-rounder, Dyletanci has it all: an approachable bistro style; adventurous cooking; and a wine list with no discernible Achilles Heel.

Burgundy is a particular strength, as too are Polish wines (including those from the proprietor’s own vineyard, the upcoming Dom Bliskowice). (F5) ul.

Rozbrat 44,dyletanci.pl

Kieliszki Na Hożej Go on, count them: hanging tantalizingly over the bar are 1,116 glasses, a testament to Kieliszki’s promise to serve all the wines they have (and there’s a motherlode to pick from) by the glass. Enjoy them on a cobbled street that’s been magnificently restored to its pre-war prime. ul. Hoża 41, kieliszkinahozej.pl

Mielżyński Wine Bar Tangled in vines and creeping ivy, this brick warehouse comes into its element each summer when drinkers pile outside to drink amid rustling trees and pristine lawns. Set within a former factory compound, the area has been revived with the legendary Mielżyński Wine Bar at its core. A flagbearer when it comes to consistency and quality, this post-industrial space remains a default favorite of the Warsaw public.

(A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7 (also on Czerska 12), mielzynski.pl

Nowina The striking interior that catches the eye from across the street – restored pre-war tiling, glinting surfaces, a world map rendered from corks and an engaging reddish glow all do their bit to lend Nowina the kind of atmosphere that’s missing in most local wine bars.

Add to that an exciting international menu and a selection of over 400 wines and you have an absolute winner. ul.

Nowogrodzka 4, nowina.waw.pl

do!

PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

LAST CHANCE

TOTALLY ROAR-SOME!

If you’ve lost the keys to your time traveling DeLorean then don’t sweat it – instead, check into Museum of Earth this month to zap yourself back 200 million years to the times when dinosaurs stalked the earth… >>> warsawinsider.pl

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EDITOR’S PICK Fountain Park Inauguration 1-4 May

Living Dinosaurs at the Museum of Earth Al. Na Skarpie 20/26, living-dinosaurs.com, 0Admission from zł. 35-49 (adults), zł. 25-39 (kids), zł. 75-150 (family tickets)

Beautiful Hens

11-12 May Botanical Gardens in Powsin Poland’s best-looking hens compete for the title of ‘the most beautiful hen in Poland’!

Oldtimer Festival

11-12 May Ptak Warsaw EXPO center in Nadarzyn Poland’s biggest vintage car will have auctions, a rally, 1,000 vehicles on display and, even, a beer festival… For info, see: oldtimerwarsaw.com

Slow Weekend

18-19 May Pl. Konesera 2 Enjoy the slow things in life at this ultra-hip celebration of lifestyle, design, food and music.

Comic Festival

23-26 May National Stadium One of the biggest events of its kind in Poland will also feature meets & greets, signing sessions and seminars.

Orange Music Festival

31 May - 1 June Służewiec Race Track Star acts include Miley Cyrus, Solange, The Raconteurs, Miles Kane and Troy Sivan.

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PHOTOGRAPHS LEFT SIDE BY KEVIN DEMARIA, TOP RIGHT WIKICOMMONS

Already viewed by over 10 million visitors over the course of its global tour, the Living Dinosaurs exhibition has stopped off in Warsaw to allow budding paleontologists the chance to get up close and personal with 24 dinosaurs presented on a life-size scale of 1:1. And no, these aren’t bones you’re looking at, rather hulking creatures that jiggle around and go ‘rargh’. Making use of the latest technological advances, the scope and scale of this outdoor, animatronic spectacle is totally Jurassic – with prices to match. Whether it’s worth the actual outlay depends on how big you are on dinosaurs, though most seem to agree that it’s an hour well spent. And respect to the T-Rex!

Fountain season is back! Enjoy choreographed water displays paired with synchronized audio and stunning visual effects each day during the inauguration period at 9.30 p.m. Shows last 30 minutes and draw thousands of spectators, with this year’s theme being Wars and Sawa – the city’s legendary founders. From thereon after, catch the show at the same time each weekend through summer.

DO! Museums

W H AT ’ S O N While pretty much all venues had yet to reveal their plans at press time, keep an eye out for the comprehensive guidebook published by City Hall in the days leading up to NoM. Available in print (both in Polish-language copies and English) and online in PDF format (um.warszawa.pl/ nocmuzeow), this essential booklet lists all participating venues and associated events. It’s nothing short of a magnum opus and absolutely vital to your enjoyment of the evening!

OUT AND ABOUT As always, the city will be rolling out a fleet of vintage vehicles to get you from A to B for free! Last year, nine new transport lines were created with NoM in mind.

Expect historic trams to be tootling around, as well as antiquated Ikarus and Ogórek buses (so-named on account of their gherkin-style shape). These are expected to run from 6.30 p.m. till 2 a.m.

THINK!

NIGHT OF MUSEUMS Now in its 16th year, the Night of Museums has grown from a minor event (the first edition saw a paltry 16,000 people visit 11 venues) to a mighty juggernaut attracting well in excess of 200,000 people.

Held on May 18th, this edition will see over 200 museums, galleries and public (and not so public) institutions throw open their doors through the evening with a host of special, one-off events, concerts and reenactments lending a sense of something special.

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No matter where you head, there will be crowds – if you don’t like queueing, this isn’t for you. If you don’t fancy being caught in ever stretching lines then use the opportunity to visit Warsaw’s lesser-known museums – often, it’s these unsung gems that prove to be the biggest surprise. Further, use the booklet produced by City Hall to your advantage to check out opening times. If you’re visiting the capital’s biggest attractions, then you’re often better off saving them till last when the hordes have dwindled.

CHANCE OF A LIFETIME! NoM is about more than just museums. Various institution will also be welcoming sightseers, enabling visitors to gain a rare look inside the corridors of power. Of these, it’s become traditional for the Filtry Waterworks to open their doors, and so too the Italian Embassy, the Regional Court of Warsaw, the Lord Mayor’s office and the Presidential Palace. There will be more, so do your homework to see what floats your boat.

C O M E P R E PA R E D Imagine queueing for an hour only to be told you’re not getting in because you haven’t got ID: well, it happens, and not just in nightclubs! A number of the more secretive institutions will require visitors to provide photographic ID before entry.

DO! Museums

THE BIG FOUR FRYDERYK CHOPIN MUSEUM The 18th century Ostrogski Palace is the perfect foil for the ultra-modern content of this multi-sensory space. The personal items are captivating (his death mask, gifts from his muse, etc.), but the big victory here is the museum’s ability to suck visitors right back into the times of Chopin through the use of interactive sights and sounds. ul. Okólnik 1, chopin.museum MUSEUM OF WARSAW Thousands of objects have been gathered here to detail the story of Warsaw in a non-linear style that can at times feel overwhelming. Peculiar souvenirs, scale models, old postcards and recovered works of art all combine to leave visitors boggled with knowledge. The vertiginous views of the Rynek below are worth the admission alone. Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42, muzeumwarszawy.pl

POLIN Composed of eight galleries, this architectural marvel covers different stages of local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day. Highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec synagogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical inter-war Jewish Warsaw street. That it was named the European Museum of the Year in 2016 such much for its ambitions to focus on more than the Holocaust alone. ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl WARSAW RISING MUSEUM Regarded as one of the country’s most important cultural institutions, the Rising Museum re-tells the story of the 1944 insurgency that came to define the city in minute detail. Exhibits range from a full-size replica of a Liberator plane, to a sewer beneath the cinema screen and a slice of bread preserved from 1944. Don’t miss the ‘City of Ruins’, a five minute 3D film which takes you on an aerial journey over devastated Warsaw. ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl

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DO! museums

M U S E U M O F P R AGA

MUSEUMS Car Museum Home to over 300 vehicles, displays include a 1930s Polish-produced Buick, WWII trucks and tanks, a Ford Thunderbird and Buick Skylark. From behind the Iron Curtain, car boffins will go bananas over the Russianmade Volgas, John Paul II’s Pope Mobile, and domestic classics such as the Syrena 104. The random layout, oily smells, cobwebbed corners and randomly assembled junk add to the sense of treading somewhere odd. ul. Warszawska 21 (Otrębusy), muzuem-motorzyacji.com.pl

Dollhouse Museum Over 120 dolls houses through the ages have been amassed in this remarkably enchanting collection, the highlight arguably being a house built by a Polish RAF pilot that took six years to restore. Pl. Defilad 1, muzeumdomkow.pl

Dulag 121 Though much is now known about the Warsaw Uprising, the fate of the civilians driven from their homes remains rather more murky. Dulag 121,

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a former prison and transit camp in Pruszków, redresses the balance by documenting this grim exodus in detail. On the NoM night tours of the grounds will be conducted by hisorians. ul. 3 Maja 8A (Pruszków), dulag121.pl

Earth Museum Staring at bits of rock and fossils isn’t everyone’s idea of fun, but a visit here isn’t necessarily a snore. The building itself is magnificent, and considered “one of the best achievements of contemporary Polish architecture as far as decorative stone is concerned.” The real curiosity, however, is the patch of blood left by an unknown soldier during the 1944 Warsaw Uprising. The stain has survived to this day. Al. Na Skarpie 20/26, mz.pan.pl

Ethnographic Museum Considerably revamped to meet the demands and attention-spans of the 21st century sightseer, the Ethnographic Museum is a visual pleasure that showcases colorful costumes, fabrics and ceramics from Poland and beyond. ul. Kredytowa 1, ethnomuseum.pl

M U S E U M O F WA R S AW

The Heritage Interpretation Center This small venue tells the complex story of Old Town’s reconstruction: if the first section about Warsaw’s physical elimination is poignant, then the others do a fabulous job of sharing the optimism and alacrity that followed. ul.

Brzozowa 11-13, mhw.pl

Jewish Historical Institute Officially opened in 1947 the Jewish Historical Institute was created to serve as an archive of Jewish culture in Warsaw. It contains artwork, historical artifacts and important documents from the city’s rich Jewish past. ul.

Tłomackie 3/5, jhi.pl

Katyń Museum This museum commemorates the murder of 21,000 Polish officers by the Soviets in the spring of 1940. Beyond its quite staggering architectural merit, the museum has done a stunning job of collecting and presenting artifacts relating to the slaughter. ul. Jeziorańskiego 4, muzeumkatynskie.pl

Marie Skłodowska-Curie Musuem Reopened after a sig-

nificant re-haul, this museum celebrates the groundbreaking scientist that discovered polonium. The Curie-osities include lab equipment, her trademark black dress and even her nail file. ul. Freta 16, en.muzeum-msc.pl

Miniature Park Magnificently detailed 1:25 scale models of Warsaw’s vanished, pre-war architectural treasures make this a stand-out little secret. Here, landmarks such as Saski Palace, the ‘summer theater’ and Żelazna Brama have been lovingly brought back from the dead in astonishing fashion. ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 66, miniaturymazowieckie.com

Museum of Communist Life Lovingly assembled by its young owner, the museum is split into a few different sections: one devoted to state and subversive literature, others to fashion and style – the quirky collection is high on personal items such as groovy cosmetics, sports equipment and cast-off kitchen utensils.

The highlight, though, is the recreation of a commie-era apartment. ul. Piękna 28/34, adventurewarsaw.com

DO! Museums Museum of Praga The Praga Museum tells the story of the area with such charm and simplicity that it manages to leave an unlikely impression that’s as punchy as that of the big institutions.

Star billing goes to a restored Jewish prayer room and the Flying Carpet: an exhibit festooned with various trinkets and treasures once available for purchase from local pavement traders. ul. Targowa 50/52, muzeumwarszawy.pl

engines, some beautifully detailed model villages and all kinds of train related ephemera: clocks, timetables, uniforms, etc. Outside is where the real anoraks head though, namely to clamber over fifty trains and carriages in various stages of life. Top billing goes to a 1942 German armored artillery train, and the walnut-clad personal wagon once used by Poland’s first post-war leader, Bolesław Bierut. ul. Towarowa 3, stacjamuzeum.pl

Palmiry National Memorial Museum An excellent multimedia exhibition set next to a cemetery holding the graves of 1,700 Poles executed in the first years of Nazi occupation.

The museum tells their forgotten story as well as that of the siege and subsequent occupation of Warsaw. Palmiry, palmiry.mhw.pl

Pawiak What was once a Tsarist prison assumed a doubly sinister function under the Nazis. Some 100,000 Polish political prisoners were held here, 37,000 of which were executed on-site. Split in two sections, cells are found on one side, while on the other the full story of the invasion and occupation. ul. Dzielna 24/26

EXPERIENCES Copernicus Science Centre Zillions of interactive exhibits allow visitors to experience an earthquake, walk on the moon, look at the world through the eyes of a snake and discover if your partner’s a good liar – and that’s the tip of the iceberg. ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, kopernik. org.pl

Fotoplastikon Thought to date from 1905, Warsaw’s Fotoplastikon generates 3D perspectives from a set of 2D images: visitors peer through an eyepiece and are taken on a trip around the world while music from days yore parps away in the background. Al. Jerozolimskie 51, fotoplastikonwarszawski.pl

The Royal Castle in Warsaw Highlights include the lavishly restored 18th century royal apartments with 22 paintings

by Canaletto, the Senators’ Chamber in which the Constitution of the Third of May was signed, the biggest collection of oriental rugs in Europe and two remarkable Rembrandt paintings. Pl. Zamkowy 4, zamekkrolewski.pl

Train Museum Inside, find 200 scale models of locomotives and steam

top secret chemical research unit, it’s from here Poland’s medical operation would have been conducted in the event of the red button being pressed. Frozen in time, it’s super creepy. ul. Kozielska 4, obiektalfa.pl

Pinball Station An unruly riot of beeps and flashes and jolly jingles, Pinball Station presents fifty plus machines from the pre-digital age. Can you touch them? Yes, yes and yes! For a flat rate of zł. 30, visitors can spend as much time as they have testing their skills on classics such as Dirty Harry, Buck Rogers and Revenge From Mars. ul. Kolejowa 8A, pinballstation.pl

GALLERIES & EXHIBITION S PAC E S Caricature Museum The Guardian called it “one of the best museums you’ve probably never heard of”, a backhanded compliment that still sits proudly on the museum’s home page. Having recently fought off an attempt to merge it into the Museum of Warsaw, the museum still stands on its own feet fulfilling its mission to bring mirth and a bit of mayhem to Warsaw’s cultural scene. ul.

Kozia 11, muzeumkarykatury.pl

Invisible Exhibition Head to the Invisible Exhibition to learn first-hand the challenges faced by the blind.

This includes everything from crossing the road to ordering a drink in a bar. Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, niewidzialna.pl

CSW Situated in a baroque-style castle the center hosts artists from all over the world.

The on-site bookshop is of particular interest for artists and intellectuals. ul. Jazdów 2, csw.art.pl

Obiekt Alfa If you think we live in scary times then a visit to this Cold War nuclear bunker is a timely reminder that it could all be worse. Built to house a

Dom Spotkań z Historią The History Meeting House wins points for small but frequently excellent exhibitions that cover topics such

as ‘rebuilding Warsaw’ and ‘Socialist Realist architecture.’ ul. Karowa 20, dsh.waw.pl Gallery of Steel Figures Inspired by ‘dreams and memories’, this exhbition sees scrap metal recycled to form characters from film and science fiction, showbiz and music. Think of it as Mad Max meets Madame Tussauds.

Produced on a scale of 1:1, the craftsmanship and attention to detail is staggering. It’s fun, futuristic and freaky! Pl. Defilad 1, galleryofsteelfigures.com

National Museum Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars. Opened at the end of 2017, the Gallery of Polish Design offers up a bamboozling array of objects to give a full 360 view of Polish 20th century applied arts. Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl

The Neon Museum Filled with salvaged signage, this museum houses several dozen neons that once lit up the capital and beyond. The emphasis is firmly on the Cold War era, a time when the nation’s best graphic designers were nutty for neon – beautiful in every respect, these renovated signs make for Warsaw’s coolest attraction: Instagram them now! ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org

Zachęta National Art Gallery Regarded as one of Poland’s most prestigious galleries, the Zachęta has a busy program of temporary exhibitions that frequently showcase some of the biggest names in domestic and international contemporary art. Pl. Małachowskiego 3, zacheta.art.pl warsawinsider.pl

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DO! Listings preschools

warsaw montessori family

Warsaw Montessori Schools

Accepting applications for our programs and locations:

American School of Warsaw American School of Warsaw provides a rich, meaningful and balanced educational experience through ageappropriate activities to students aged 3 to 5. For further information and/or to visit our school, contact:admissions@ aswarsaw.org or 22 ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, aswarsaw.org 702 85 00.

The British Primary School of Wilanów The British Primary School of Wilanów We are a values-driven school offering a world-class education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS). Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9. Please email admissions@ bswilanow.org to organise a visit.

Infant & Toddler Tatrzańska 5a Badowska 19

Casa dei Bambini Badowska 19 Szkolna 16, Hornówek

Elementary Szwoleżerów 4

The British School Early Years Centre The British School provides EYFS classes from Pre-nursery (age 30 months) to Reception (5 years old). Children develop quickly and their Early Years practitioners aim to do all they can to help your child have the best possible start in life and become a lifelong learner. ul. Dąbrowskiego

„Erdkinder” Middle School

84 (Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646 7777 , thebritishschool.pl

Montessori High School

The Canadian School of Warsaw Preschool Welcoming students from the ages of 2.5 to 6 years old, currently 45% of their admissions are international students. The dedicated, IB-trained teachers deliver an innovative program (PYP) in English designed for modern world needs. The program offers a combination of Literacy, Maths, Social Studies,

Science, Physical Education, Art, Music & Rhythmics, French and Polish classes. ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, canadian-school.pl

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations) Warsaw Montessori School Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have three green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin.

The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in earlychildhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob.

692 099 134, warsawmontessori.edu.pl

International Trilingual School of Warsaw Established in 1994, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fill-immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/saint-exupery.pl

Tatrzańska 5a

Pytlasińskiego 13a Contact Office: 692 099 134 office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl

www.wmf.edu.pl

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The English Playhouse The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old. For more info or to arrange a tour call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email: jnowak@theenglishplayhouse.com ul. Pływiańska 14a, tel. 22 843 9370, tep.edu.pl

DO! Listings

Maple Tree Montessori Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, mapletreemontessori.pl

Montessori Academy for International Children An English-speaking pre-school (16 months to 6 years of age) with two locations. The school’s policy is to comply with Montessori standards, using the Montessori Method in English. The school’s philosophy is based on the joy of learning, which comes from discovering and furthering the individual development of each child. ul.

Królewicza Jakuba 36 (Wilanów), ul. Sadowa 4 (Konstancin), Open 8:00-16:45, tel. 502 315 022, montessoriacademy.eu

Międzynarodowa Szkoła Podstawowa Argonaut This elementary school is open for children of all nationalities and backgrounds.

It places a focus on learning English as well as additional languages, and has an attractive list of available extracurricular activities.ul. Radarowa 6, tel. 504 509 504, argonaut.edu.pl

Montessori Stepping Stones An intimate, international, English-speaking preschool located

in Powsin that follows the Montessori philosophy which emphasizes the individuality of each child. Children from the ages of 1.5-years-old to 6-years-old are welcome, with the school’s goals aimed at facilitating the individual development of the child, both physical and mental, through a system that is focused on the spontaneous use of the human intellect. ul. Przyczółkowa 140, tel. 728 939 582, montessoristeppingstones.pl

Trilingual Pre-school and Nursery “Three Languages” Center The only trilingual pre-school and nursery teaching English, Spanish and Polish through total language immersion. All educators are native speaker pre-school teachers. The comprehensive curriculum follows American, Spanish and Polish curriculum standards. The pre-school was awarded European Language Label in 2012. ul. Karowa 14/16 lok 6 (3-6 year olds); ul. Cicha 5 lok 1 (1-2 year olds), tel. 517 872 682, 3languages.pl

The pursuit

of excellence We promise to support your child to love learning and achieve more than they ever thought possible.

www.thebritishschool.pl

Please email admissions@thebritishschool.pl or call (0048) 22 842 32 81 ext. 125 to arrange a tour warsawinsider.pl

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DO! Listings schools Akademeia High School Akademeia High School is an international high school in Warsaw, offering the chance to study for A Levels and iGCSEs. The school focuses on developing both students’ academic abilities and their artistic, athletic and leadership potential. ul. Ledóchowskiej 2, akademeia.edu.pl

American School of Warsaw ASW is a premier college-preparatory international school that offers a PK-12 curriculum, including the IB Diploma Program in Grades 11 and 12. Students are inspired and challenged every day by experienced and dedicated teachers, who provide enriching learning opportunities in a world class facility. For further information contact: admissions@ aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00. ul.

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Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, aswarsaw.org

The British Primary School of Wilanów We are a values-driven school offering a worldclass education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS). Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9. Please email admissions@bswilanow. org to organise a visit.

The British School Premium international school established in 1992 by Nord Anglia Education. The curriculum is designed to provide the

highest academic quality of education. They follow the English National Curriculum, adapted to the needs of their international student community: from Primary through to the Secondary Key Stages to the IGCSE examinations and a well-established International Baccalaureate (IB) Diploma Program. ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, thebritishschool.pl

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations) Warsaw Montessori School Guided by trained specialists, students will be responsible for managing their household, operating small businesses, caring for local flora and fauna as well as domesticated animals, taking charge of the younger children and much more. “Adolescence Program” activities, integrated with academic studies, help

DO! Listings students discover their inner strength to meet life’s real challenges. ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, warsawmontessori.edu.pl

Casa dei Bambini Warsaw Montessori School A leader in the field of Montessori education, well-trained teachers guide students to independent and successful learning with both English and bilingual classrooms provided. Located just steps

from Lazienki Park, the school resides in vibrant surroundings near to museums, embassies and natural settings which provide students with learning outside the classroom. ul. Szwoleżerów 4 (grades 0-4), tel. 608 488 420; ul. Tatrzańska 5A (grades 5-8), tel. 604 137 826; ul. Pytlasińskiego 13 (high school), tel. 787 095 835, wmf.edu.pl

The English Primary The English Primary is designed

specifically for children in the primary education ages, just as children experience in England but in an international community. Pupils are taken through the key learning stages so that they can achieve to the best of their ability through a fun learning experience.

The Core Curriculum subjects include English, Phonics, Science, Mathematics, French, PE and Swimming, Music, Personal, Social and Health Education. ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 784 037 808, tep. edu.pl

Accepting applications for Nursery to Year 9 bsw.com.pl +48 221 110 062 ul. Hlonda 12, Warsaw admissions@bswilanow.org

monnet international school

PADDINGTON BEAR KINDERGARTEN

IB World School no 001483

on's ngt LUB i d Pad EN'S C EN LDR CHI OW OP N

Education for a better world

Belwederska 6a, Warsaw

www.maturamiedzynarodowa.pl/przedszkole warsawinsider.pl

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DO! Listings The Canadian School of Warsaw International Elementary and Middle School Located on two campuses in the Mokotów this is the only authorized IB School with PYP programs taught in English and Polish. French is taught as a third language. Offers a wide range of extra activities, a summer school, and employs a full time psychologist.

Provision is made for additional Polish and English support. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create the perfect learning environment. ul. Bełska 7, tel. 692 411 573 / 885 420 044, secretary@canadian-school.pl or secretary.olimpijska@canadian-school.pl

International Trilingual School of Warsaw Established in 1994, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fill-immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533

321 084, 3languages.pl/saint-exupery.pl

Monnet International School Located in Mokotów, the Monnett is the only school in Poland that implements the International Baccalaureate Program from kindergarten level all the way through to secondary school. The fully-qualified staff are committed to delivering only the highest standards of education. ul. Stępińska 13,

60-minute trial email: kontakt@cupofpolish.com. cupofpolish.com Edu & More Polish Language School incorporating modern teaching methods and reasonable prices. Intensive & regular Polish courses for beginners. Business & everyday Polish. ul. Nowogrodzka 44 / 7, polishonlinenow.com

tel. 22 852 06 08, maturamiedzynarodowa.pl

Warsaw Montessori School Focuses on the Montessori curriculum with an education based on the integration of conceptual learning and real-life experiences. ul. Szwoleżerów 4, tel. 22 841 3908,

Frog Acclaimed language school aimed at all levels of competency. Flexible schedules and a history of working with foreigners make it one of the ‘go to’ choices for new arrivals wanting to polish their Polish. ul.

warsawmontessori.edu.pl

Mazowiecka 12/24, frog.org.pl

Willy Brandt Schule Warschau One of the city’s best renowned schools offers a kindergarten as well as primary and secondary education conducted to a German curriculum. Św. Urszuli

Klub Dialogu Outstanding programs for foreigners living in Poland: a variety of courses aimed at every level. Using over ten years of experience, the leaning process becomes an adventure at Klub Dialogu. ul.

Ledóchowskiej 3, wbs.pl

Hello

Ordynacka 13/5, klubdialogu.pl

education adult learning Cup of Polish Personalized Polish classes adapted to meet your needs. Also home/company visits and online courses. For a free

Together School Learn Polish w i t h t h e in b eboth s t t eKraków a c h e r s and With locations in the biggest school Warsaw, Together have seven years of i n Wa r s a w. experience teaching Polish and English for everyday life, business and general communication. Mariensztat 8

Hello Learn Polish with the best teachers in the biggest school i n Wa r s a w.

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DO! Listings health & beauty gyms Exuma Gym Warsaw’s latest luxury gym features equipment by Life Fitness and Hammer Strength, a wellness zone, private parking and stunning views of the National Stadium across the river. ul. Wioślarska 10,

spas & salons Clochee Natural, organic cosmetic brand that’s been dubbed a ‘pro-health project for your body and soul’. Using only certified ingredients, Clochee’s beauty products bring you closer to nature. Newlylaunched, their flagship store also houses a top-notch spa facilities. ul. Nowolipki 13, spa.clochee.com/spa

exumagym.com

Gravitan Gravitan features state-of-the-art equipment, group classes and numerous specialists ranging from trainers and physios to beauticians and dieticians. Pl. Szwedzki 3 & ul. Malborska 39, gravitan.pl

Holmes Place Premium Three ‘premium locations’, with the Hilton and Regent branches housing a 25-meter pool. Sauna and steam room facilities are available in all all three, as are a varied timetable of classes plus personal training. ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel), ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), holmesplace.pl

It's Time to Learn Polish

creamy.pl

ouch!

DEPILACJA WOSKIEM

Ouch!

Experts in waxing, Ouch! aim their offer at ‘busy women looking for express treatments with lasting effects who, at the same time, appreciate a sense of intimacy’. ul. Belwederska 32, ouch.pl

manicure pedicure

kontakt@cupofpolish.com cupofpolish.com tel. +48 508 700 508

Pardon My French Manicure and pedicure treatments with high quality lacquers and an awareness of global trends: if you need an endorsement, Paul McCartney visited when he was in Poland! ul. Belwederska 32; Bonifraterska 8; ul.

Mokotowska 56, ul. Wilcza 3 pardonmyfrench.pl

sport Hangar 646 Hangar 646 touts 50 interlinked trampolines, a ping pong zone, ball pools and even a snowboard slide where visitors

Miedzeszyński 646, hangar646.pl

Stacja Grawitacja Set over 3,200 sq/m of space, this indoor trampoline extravaganza sends visitors bouncing down ‘ninja obstacle courses’, sky slamming basketball hoops and jumping around engaged in dodgeball shenanigans. ul. Bohaterów Września 12, stacjagrawitacja.pl

Creamy Creamy Creative Cosmetics offering a wide range of cosmetics which are based mainly on the deeply nourishing Haitian Moringa Oil. Created by Zofia PinchinatWitucka, a Haitian-Pole whose life goal has been to bring the two countries closer, Creamy’s cosmetics are vegan and cruelty-free and do not contain any synthetic dyes nor fragrances, petroleum components, sulphates or silicones.

Creamy SPA offers original Haitian facial massage based on Creamy’s vegan cosmetics. ul. Chmielna 6 (Warsaw),

PARDON MY FRENCH

Polish for Foreigners

hurtle down a ramp before splashing down on an inflatable mattress. ul. Wał

fashion Ania Kuczyńska Ania Kuczyńska is becoming well known for her highly fashionable, minimalist clothing designs. The store also carries adorable baby clothes and various accessories. ul. Mokotowska 61 Just Paul Exuding confident femininity, this energetic brand is characterized by its light and unobtrusive elegance and sense of effortless nonchalance. Founded in 2012 by designers Justyna and Paula, Just Paul seeks to address the needs of the modern woman with its line in chic but casual clothing and more dazzly evening wear. ul.

Mokotowska 61, justpaul.pl

Lui Store Elegant female fashion store with brands including Attico, Rixo London, 3.1 Philip Lim, Les Coyottes de Paris, Jonathan Simkhai, as well as lesser-known names making their first in-roads into the world of high fashion. ul. Mokotowska 26

Moliera 2 Boutique Brands: Alexnadre Birman, Alexandre Vauthier, Aquazzura, Balmain, Beach Bunny, Burberry, Buscemi, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Cult Gaia, Francesco Russo, Gianvito Rossi, Golden Goose, Herve Leger, Isabel Marant, Kenzo, Maison Michel, Marc Jacobs, Manolo Blahnik, Moncler, OneTeaspoon, Self-Portrait, Tod’s, Tory Burch, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon, Zimmermann. ul. Moliera 2, moliera2.com warsawinsider.pl

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DO! Listings

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Brands: Beach Bunny, Buscemi, Canada Goose, Casadei, Christian Louboutin Men, Dsquared2, Fay, Gianvito Rossi, Hogan, Kenzo, Moncler, Mr & Mrs Italy, OTS, Ralph Lauren, Tod’s, Tom Ford, Tory Burch, Valentino, Yves Salomon. Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, plactrzechkrzyzy.com

Ptasia 6 A unique ladies concept store showcasing the works of both emerging and established independent Polish fashion labels such as Eva Grygo, Confashion, Kasia Miciak and Polanka. ul. Ptasia 6, ptasia6.pl

Reykjavik District Chic, well-cut menswear for all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal. ul. Burakowska 15, reykjavikdistrict.com

best places to invest in good furniture and statement accessories for the home. ul.

trick out their home with a pre-loved retro statement piece. ul. 11 Listopada 54,

Woronicza 31, boconcept.com

lata60-te.pl

Collage The idea is simple: to present all a woman needs under one roof. Specializing in beauty products and design pieces, Collage’s portfolio ranges from jewelry and fashion to succulents and tableware.

Always stylish, the underlying quality of the products isn’t for dispute. ul. Rozbrat 28/30

Le Pukka For interior inspirations take a look at Le Pukka: highly original furniture and decorative pieces for the home come from the likes of Smeg, AreaDeclic, HK Living and Zuiver. ul. Solec 58/60, lepukka.pl

DecoDialogue Working with both large manufacturers and smaller European design studios, DecoDialogue present a carefully sourced collection of furniture, textiles glassware and ceramics inside a beautifully outfitted space brimming with both statement pieces and more discreet little luxuries by the likes of Louis Poulsen, Lumio, Łyko, Klippan and Ton. ul. Kopernika 8/18, decodialogue.pl

Risk. Made In Warsaw Mixing modern shapes with expert tailoring, the idea was to create a look that’s both comfortable yet chic. That they’ve been featured in the likes of Vogue and Elle suggests that this target has been accomplished. ul. Szpitalna 9,

Długa Showroom Decorative plaster materials from Novacolor and porcelain from Visa Alegre (the official china of the White House and Buckingham Palace) are a couple of reasons to go here for spending. ul. Długa

riskmadeinwarsaw.com

8/14, dlugashowroom.pl

home & design

Future Antiques These stylish, mid-century pieces have been refreshed using artisanal techniques to return items to their fullest aesthetic potential. Though much of the furniture is sourced from France, Italy and the Czech Republic, it’s the Danish bits and pieces that really stand out. ul.

8288 The graphic art of co-owner Robert Kuta; hard-to-find scents by Andrea Maack; stationary by Midori; and beautiful jewelry pieces by the likes of All Blues and Otiumberg await inside this thrilling, fresh-minded concept store. Blending the functions of a gallery and shop, the aesthetic value of 8288 is impossible to fault. ul. Mysia 3, 8288conceptstore.com August Design Studio Inspired by ‘the joy of simplicity’, discover a world of handmade, artsy ceramics and other ‘design objects’ that are as functional as they are beautiful. Your shelves won’t ever feel the same! ul.

Brzozowa 6/8A (enter from ul. Bugaj), augustdesignstudio.pl

Bo Concept Lovely, clean lines make this one of the

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Warsaw Insider | MAY 2019

Poznańska 3/14

Green Bells Equally inspired by Asia as the Victorian terrariums of botanist Dr. Nathaniel Bagshaw-Ward, Green Bells present miniature eco-worlds kept perfectly preserved inside ornamental glass: an ideal statement piece for house and home, your very own ‘forest in a jar’ will set you back from zł. 120 upwards. ul.

Grzybowska 16/22, fb.com/greenbells

Lata 60-te Specializing in expertly refreshed furniture from the PRL era, it’s become a favorite of design mavens looking to

Love Poland Design Founded with a fondness (but not longing!) for the PRL period, the retro undercurrent of this souvenir store is impossible to ignore. Proudly stocking only domestically produced objects, head to Love Poland Design to stock up on wacky Palace of Culture socks, amusing mugs, illustrative poster art and cotton bags adorned with mermaids, goats and other city emblems. ul. Chmielna 30, lovepolanddesign.pl

Makutra To know and not to cook, is not to know.

This store has everything a master chef seeks: from tagines to mezzalunas, it’s got the lot covered. Huge stock of cook books and kitchenware. ul. Oleandrów 5, makutra.com

Nap Bedtime accessories are the bread and butter here, but there’s also several bits for the kitchen as well: coffee makers by Tom Dixon, posh pans from Baumalu, arty saltshakers from Menu and tableware from Muubs. ul. Mysia 3 Plantarium Focusing on low maintenance air plants, owner Kamila Burchardt has accrued a number of big, leafy ferns, towering succulents, hard-to-find plants that are uncommon to Poland and accompanying accessories to lift up your home. Impressive in scope and outlook, your apartment won’t ever feel the same. ul. Mokotowska 71, plantarium.pl

Porcelanowa Award-winning, contemporary Polish porcelain produced by cult, internationally recognized brands such as Aoomi and Fenek. ul. Kredytowa 2, porcelanowa.com Rzeczownik Specializing in stationery, cards, notepads,

DO! Listings and calendars, find Rifle Paper Co., Red Cap Cards, UStudio and 1973 among the brands available at this intriguing store. Ranging from the super cute to the ultra-cool, browse-worthy items include graphic prints, ceramics, books and quirky little things for house and home. ul. Hoża St 59/1, rzeczownik.com

inc. Mango, Lacoste, Guess, Hilfiger and Peek & Cloppenburg. Al. Jana Pawła II 82, arkadia.com.pl

Galeria Mokotów Stores inc. Calvin Klein, Hollister, Hugo Boss, New Balance, Royal Collection and Timberland. ul. Wołoska 12, galeriamokotow. com.pl

Slou Founded from a love of simple, beautiful things, this suburb treasure is an enclave of design-minded items that range from ceramics and plant pots to stationary, clothing, cosmetics and art. Diverse as it is, all objects are linked by their extraordinary aesthetics. Al. Zjednoczenia 11, slou.pl

malls & department stores Arkadia Not many Polish malls do it better. Stores

Galeria Północna Białołęka’s first major shopping center includes Poland’s first outpost of Hamley’s, as well as stores such as Forever 21 and Guess. Part of the ‘fourth generation of shopping centers’, add-ons include a rooftop garden and some of the best kid’s facilities on Poland’s retail map.

Plac Unii One of Warsaw’s latest mall counts Armani Jeans, Liu-Jo and Pandora amongst its upmarket tenants. ul. Puławska 2, placunii.pl

Mysia 3 Set in Poland’s former censorship office, the line-up includes Scandinavian fashion in Cos, shoes from My Paris, unconventional fashion from Nenukko and more. ul.

Mysia 3, mysia3.pl

ul. Światowida 17, galeriapolnocna.pl

Vitkac Poland’s first luxury department store gathers the world’s top designers under one roof, with brands including Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton and Stella McCartney, . Vitkac, ul. Bracka 9, likusconceptstore.pl

Klif House of Fashion Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has a line-up of top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko. ul.

Złote Tarasy Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Jatomi Health and Fitness Club. ul. Złota

Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl

59, zlotetarasy.pl

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DO! Listings 5-Star Hotels Bellotto ul. Senatorska 13/15, tel. 22 829 6444, hotelbellotto.pl

Bristol Hotel ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1000, hotelbristolwarsaw.pl

H15 Boutique ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 553 8700, info@ h15ab.com, h15ab.com

8888, warsaw.intercontinental. com

pl. Zawiszy 1, tel. 22 579 1000, sobieski.com.pl

Mamaison Le Régina Hotel Warsaw

Mecure Warszawa Centrum

ul. Kościelna 12, tel. 22 531 6000, mamaison.com

ul. Złota 48/54, tel. 22 697 3999, mercure.com

Marriott

Mercure Grand Warszawa

Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 6306, warsawmarriott.com

ul. Krucza 28, tel. 22 583 2100, mercure.com

Regent Warsaw Hotel

Courtyard by Marriott Hotel (Airport)

ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, reservations@regentwarsaw.com, regent-warsaw.com

Sheraton ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6100, sheraton.pl

Hilton Warsaw

Raffles Europejski Warsaw

ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555 / 800 44 11 482, hilton.com

ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, tel. 22 255 9590, raffles.com/ warsaw

Hotel Warszawa Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9, tel.

22 470 03 00, warszawa.hotel. com.pl

Westin

Indigo

4-Star Hotels

ul. Smolna 40, tel. 22 418 89 00, indigowarsaw.com

Radisson Blu Sobieski

Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, westin.pl

Novotel Warszawa (Airport)

ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 0100, warszawacourtyard.pl

Novotel Warszawa Centrum ul. Marszałkowska 94/98, tel.

22 596 0000, novotel.com, accorhotels.com

ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328

ul. Wspólna 72, tel. 22 317 2700, hamptoninn3.hilton.com

ul. 1-ego Sierpnia 1, tel. 22 575 6000

relocation companies Euro Move International Movers ul. Kineskopowa 1, Piaseczno, euromove.pl

AGS Warsaw ul. Julianowska 37, Piaseczno, agsmovers.com

Polonia Palace Hotel

CorstJens Worldwide Movers Group

Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. 22 318 2800, poloniapalace.com

ul. Nowa 23, Stara Iwiczna, corstjens.com

3-Star Hotels Pl. Zamkowy, ul. Świętojańska 2, tel. 22 425 0100, castleinn.pl

Castle Inn

Move One Relocations Also immigration assistance, fine art shipping, pet transport and consulting services. ul. Al.

Holiday Inn Express Warsaw Airport

Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 8160, moveonerelo.com

Hampton by Hilton InterContinental

ul. Poleczki 35, tel. 22 373 37 00, hiexpress.com

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DO! Guide

R O YA L C A S T L E

innovative Polin museum covers all aspects of this nation’s complex and often fraught Jewish history. More old school in style, the Jewish Historical Institute often hosts thought-provoking exhibitions linked to the wartime suffering of the Jewish population.

COMMUNISM

THE ESSENTIALS...

Cut through the chaff and time manage your visit as effectively as possible.

THE OLD…

The Old Town, raised from the rubble after WWII, is symbolic of the ‘phoenix city’ that ‘survived its own death’.

The Royal Castle is a maze of fancy chambers and important paintings by the likes of Rembrandt and Canaletto, while the Museum of Warsaw offers a peerless peek into the complexities of Warsaw’s story: the view of the Old Town Square from the top is worth the admission alone. Close by, check out the city that once was at Park Miniatur, a beautiful exhibition displaying intricate scale models of the city’s pre-war architectural glories. To soak in the extravagances of Poland’s imperial years, take a walk around the immaculate Łazienki Park or, further out, visit Wilanów Palace: frequently nicknamed ‘the Polish Versailles’, the landscaped gardens are as unmissable as the former royal chambers. Finally, tap into the very essence of the Polish soul by visiting the new Vodka Museum on the right side of town.

WWII

Memories of WWII still cast a heavy shadow over the town. Learn about the 1944 Warsaw Uprising at The Rising Museum: it’s deservedly rated as among the most important cultural institutions in the country. Lesser known, the Old Town’s ‘Heritage Centre’ documents the destruction (and subsequent reconstruction) of the city, while three separate museums, Pawiak, Szucha and Katyń, cover equally somber chapters in Poland’s dark history. To get up close and personal to military hardware, visit the Polish Army Museum.

JEWISH WARSAW

Though largely flattened, the former Jewish Ghetto contains numerous memorials, among them the Umschlagplatz monument marking the spot where trains departed for the gas chambers of Treblinka. The one synagogue that survived (Twarda 6) is the center of local Jewish life, while the

A full tour of Stalin’s Palace of Culture is a must: the basements (protected from rodents by a team of feline guardians) are intriguing whilst the top-floor viewing terrace unimpeachable. Explore the more ambient side to Communism in the Neon Museum and then head across town to check the new location of the Czar PRL Museum (czarprl.pl). A warm and eccentric look at daily life under Communism, this fantastic museum could yet become one of Warsaw’s quirkiest attractions.

Equally weird, check out a former nuclear bunker by visiting the once top secret Obiekt Alfa (obiektalfa.pl).

Lastly, take a look at what’s on at Dom Spotkań z Historią, a small exhibition space that specializes in interesting photo exhibits that explore Warsaw’s past – though subject matter varies to cover differing chapters of the city’s history, the PRL era receives the lion’s share of attention.

MODERN WARSAW

Wonder amid rioting children and whirring machines in the Copernicus Science Centre and after, visit the university library to explore the stunning, cosmic rooftop garden. The Museum of Modern Art is a short walk away whilst across the water, the state-of-the-art National Stadium conducts regular tours and thrills both stadium geeks and football fans alike.

ART

Serious art lovers flock to the National Museum for its determined presentation of art through the ages – don’t miss the brilliantly retro Gallery of Polish Design. The Zachęta, the Modern Art Museum and CSW are more alternative with captivating exhibitions that excite non-conformists.

And keep your eyes peeled outside: some of the city’s best art is found on its walls – the Praga district is especially celebrated for their large format wall murals. warsawinsider.pl

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in memoriam

ON A FINAL NOTE With great sadness, we salute the life of one of our best-known contributors, Matt Lynch…

An Insider to the core, Matt Lynch was a staunch supporter of this magazine and a valued contributor who, for several years, wrote a much-loved column under the pseudonym of The Mayor. Accompanied by a revolving roster of ‘wingmen’, his reports from the bars, clubs and VIP rooms of Warsaw and beyond were both hilarious and outrageous in equal measure: a cross between The Hangover and Animal House, never did his writing fail to dwell on what he referred to as ‘Poland’s most valuable resource: its women’. In the age of political correctness, his gonzo prose, shameless antics and audacious pick-up advice were received by readers and editors alike with something that can only be described as horrified glee.

Easily identifiable by his wild shirts and extravagant jackets, Matt was a huge presence on the capital’s social circuit, a thundering whirlwind of quips, tricks and tales of adventure.

But there was more to him than ‘the party’ alone. Moving to Poland in 1994, he became a successful businessman and was highly active in the American Chamber of Commerce.

Typical of his human warmth, he used this acquired clout to raise millions for the Litewska Children’s Hospital Foundation, before ultimately becom-

104 Warsaw Insider | MAY 2019

ing President of the organization. It was a role he cherished.

A champion of Polish-American relations, his easy charm, ready wit and upbeat persona captivated all who met him: when he spoke, people listened – and usually with a smile on their faces. Diagnosed with colon cancer in 2017, he fought his illness with dignity, courage and unfailing good humor, before finally succumbing to the disease earlier this year.

In the weeks before his death, Matt wrote to his brother, John, quoting a line from the film Serendipity: “The ancient Greeks didn’t do obituaries. After someone passed away, they simply asked, ‘did he live with passion?” In Matt’s case, the answer is emphatic.

Sleep well, friend.

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