Warsaw Insider March 2019 #271

Allotment Anthology PRL Fashion Travel: Szuflandia Farewell Amatorska The Capital’s Original City Magazine Since 1996

MARCH 2019

271 03/2019

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AQUAZZURA AQUAZZURA ALEXANDRE ALEXANDRE BIRMAN BIRMAN BALMAIN BALMAIN BURBERRY BURBERRY BUSCEMI BUSCEMI CASADEI CASADEI CHRISTIAN CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN LOUBOUTIN CULT CULT GAIA GAIA FRANCESCO FRANCESCO RUSSO RUSSO GIANVITO GIANVITO ROSSI ROSSI HERVE HERVE LEGER LEGER ISABEL ISABEL MARANT MARANT KENZO KENZO MAISON MAISON MICHEL MICHEL MARC MARC JACOBS JACOBS MANOLO MANOLO BLAHNIK BLAHNIK MR MR & & MRS MRS ITALY ITALY ONETEASPOON ONETEASPOON SELF SELF –– PORTRAIT PORTRAIT TOD’S TOD’S TORY TORY BURCH BURCH VICTORIA VICTORIA BECKHAM BECKHAM ZIMMERMANN ZIMMERMANN

Moliera 2

tel.: tel.: 228277099, 228277099, www.Moliera2.com www.Moliera2.com

editorial INFRONT

Editor-in-chief Alex Webber

5 News

insider@warsawinsider.pl Art Director Kevin Demaria insider@warsawinsider.pl

FEATURES

Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com

2 Photography: 2 Allotments 6 Fashion: 2 Under Communism 8 Travel: 2 Szuflandia

Contributors: Stuart Dowell Maria Mileńko Michał Miszkurka Ed Wight

Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com

EAT!

34 Review:

ey Account Manager K Agata Sicińska asicinska@valkea.com

Yatta 3 5 Review: Polana Smaków 36 Review: Guru

ey Account Manager K Joanna Chmielewska jchmielewska@valkea.com

61 Review:

Czytelnia 62 Review:

Amatorska

DO!

77 Review:

Axe Nation 78 Review:

Monument @ Królikarnia 80 Events 82 Museums 93 Essentials 94 Map 96 Last Impression

B

rilliant sunshine, driving snow and smog so thick you can paste it to a wall: March brings all of these, and often within an hour of each other. An eclectic month quite like no other, the inconsistent weather is an ample reflection on the rather random nature of this strange old city. And you get an idea of just how curious this capital is by leafing through these pages. Shoehorned inside, find everything from Poland’s hottest curry to a bout of axe throwing and a customized van in which you can sleep. And, of course, nowhere else will you find a more comprehensive and impartial guide to where you should eat and what you should drink. Hope you enjoy it and see ya’ next month!

Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com Subscription 12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland.

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Tel. (022) 783-6000

Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

on the cover This month, our cover artist brings you a bird’s eye view of Pl. Konstytucji as seen from the Museum of Life Under Communism. (Illustration by Michał Miszkurka)

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ey Account Manager K Karolina Zielonka kzielonka@valkea.com

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2019

VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies. All information ©2019 Warsaw Insider.

PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT

DRINK!

MARCH 2019

BURBERRY CANADA GOOSE CASADEI CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN MEN FAY GIANVITO ROSSI KENZO MONCLER MR & MRS ITALY ONETEASPOON RALPH LAUREN TOD’S TORY BURCH VALENTINO BURBERRY CHILDREN DSQUARED2 KIDS KENZO KIDS MONCLER KIDS

Pl. Trzech Krzyzy 3/4 tel.: +48 226221416, www.PlacTrzechKrzyzy.com

Enjoy the hospitality and tastes of the Bosphorus in Poland’s most authentic Turkish restaurant Pl. Konstytucji 2, tel. 883 444 441, anatolia.pl

in the

NEWS

KEVIN DEMARIA

TAKING HALF MEASURES

The absurdities and anomalies of life in everyday Poland were brought into sharp focus in February when workers removed scaffolding to reveal a thoroughly professional renovation of a historic, Socialist Realist housing estate in the Muranรณw district.

The problem? The work had stopped at the exact point dividing two separate addresses linked by an overhead archway thereby creating a stinging visual contrast between old and new.

Overseen by two different housing committees, a miscommunication between the entities governing Nowolipie 1 and Andersa 1 is being blamed for the blunder. Tired of dealing with peeling plaster and falling masonry, representatives of Nowolipie 1 applied for city funding to renovate their half of the block and have since claimed to have sent their neighboring committee a letter inviting them to join the bid. On their side, the committee from Andersa have stated they never received such an offer.

News of the debacle quickly went viral, with some seeing it as a metaphor for the divisions in Polish society, and others as a stark comment on the now all too common lack of dialogue between neighbors. As for the building itself, a spokeswoman for Andersa 1 has revealed that she hopes the situation will be fully rectified by the end of the year. warsawinsider.pl

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News CYCLING

Now You See Me… A ‘glow-in-the-dark’ track dubbed ‘the coolest cycle path in the world’ has failed to deliver the anticipated results after it was revealed that Poland’s lack of sunshine had impacted its effectiveness. Built using synthetic particles powered by the sun, designers had hoped that the futuristic path would light up in shimmering blue colors once day turned to night. However, two years after the project went viral, recently shared photos from Facebook users tell the vastly different story of a path that has not aged well. Unperturbed, many have jumped to defend the 100-meter route in Lidzbark Warmiński stressing that it had always been intended as a prototype experiment.

HERITAGE

Residents of Saska Kępa are in uproar after Carrefour Express opened a third outlet on Francuska, with their latest store located within spitting distance of a statue of poet Agnieszka Osiecka. Taking the place of a French café, the newly opened supermarket has been slammed by angry locals for ‘ruining the artistic atmosphere’ of the neighborhood and demeaning the memory of the local literary hero. Local action groups have called for a boycott, and an official complaint is set to be addressed to the Conservator of Monuments.

Despite being earmarked as a heritage area, habitants of the upmarket district are growing increasingly concerned by the incursion of ‘big business’ and the subsequent erosion of the quaint ambience of old.

ART

Time For Picasso Drawing 18,000 people over its initial 12-day run, the astounding success of the National Museum’s Pablo Picasso exhibition has persuaded directors to extend the display’s lifespan by a further week. Now wrapping up on March 3rd, the exhibition presents 30 ceramics and prints that had hitherto been kept locked away in the museum’s vault. The display also includes a 1948 portrait titled Polish Girl, the only Picasso drawing in the museum’s possession.

The exhibition is the first in a string of presentations showcasing works hidden in the museum’s storage rooms.

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PHOTOGRAPHS FROM TOP, PRESS MATERIAL, KEVIN DEMARIA , COURTESY OF MNW

A Monumental Mess

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News ARCHITECTURE

Know My Name: Uniwersus

KEVIN DEMARIA

A rotting, bygone relic of the communist era, few buildings manage to stir the same distaste and horror as the brutal slab of concrete that is Uniwersus (ul.

Belwederska 20/22). Built in place of a 19th century neo-renaissance villa that once housed paralytics (demolished after the adjoining chapel was deemed architecturally offensive by the KGB agents stationed next door), it was completed in 1980 following five years of work.

Originally constructed to serve as a pavilion showcasing Soviet technical achievements, it soon found a new purpose as Dom Książki – the House of Books. Popularly celebrated as the best bookstore in Poland, it was to here that Poles flocked in numbers to escape the reality of the times. While empty shelves dominated most other stores, those in Dom Książki groaned under the weight of imported best-sellers. Dubbed by some to be ‘the happiest place in Warsaw’, its fans were prepared to overlook the leaking ceilings and structural deficiencies to browse the books and convene in the café.

Gradually surrendering its literary purpose after the political transformation, it nearly came a cropper when, in 2008, plans were mooted to bulldoze it in favor of a 55-meter tower. Since entered into the register of monuments, it arouses passions to this current day: brutal or beautiful? Or maybe a bit of both?

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News PROPERT Y

POLITICS

Toxic Towers

Sign Of The Times

Problems continue to mount for Poland’s ruling PiS party, with the latest embarrassment coming after details of a secret recording were published of leader Jarosław Kaczyński discussing a lucrative real estate deal. Though plans to build a pair of 190-meter skyscrapers in central Warsaw have since been aborted, the leaked tapes have further battered the party’s public image with an Austrian businessman involved in the project accusing Kaczyński of ‘large scale fraud’ after he wasn’t paid for his work.

Two workers have been handed the unenviable task of switching back 600 street signs in Warsaw after a court ruling overturned a ‘de-communization’ action initiated by PiS that had resulted in any street names vaguely associated with communism being renamed.

Hanging for less than a year, the first to fall was ul. Lech Kaczyńskiego which reverted to its former title of Al. Armii Ludowej. Named in honor of the former PiS President (and twin brother of current leader, Jarosław), the saga had taken on a wider political importance with many viewing it as an attempt by the ruling PiS party to extend their influence in oppositioncontrolled Warsaw.

200,000 Złotys

The estimated cost of replacing the signs

600 Signs

The number of signs that must be replaced

45 Streets

Renamed after ‘de-communization’

Looking Green Visitors to Złote Tarasy got more than they bargained for in February when a rare lizard was sighted lurking in the mall. Belonging to a specie exclusive to Madagascar, the reptile was caught by the city’s Eko Patrol after surprised staff raised the alarm. Attracted to the warmth and fluorescent light offered by Złote Tarasy, the escaped pet – thought to have been illegally owned – was taken to the zoo where officials have promised it will lead ‘a prosperous life’.

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44 Streets

Reverting back to their former names

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Months

The amount of time that Kaczyńskiego existed for

2

Minutes

The amount of time needed to remove the Kaczyńskiego sign

1

Month

The estimated time needed to restore all the signs

PHOTOGRAPHS FROM TOP; PRESS MATERIAL, SHUTTERSTOCK

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EXUMAGYM

News NEON

Bright Lights, Big City Warsaw’s appetite for retro-style neon shows no sign of fading with early February seeing the unveiling of the latest to cast a colorful dazzle over the capital’s streets. Named Wielka Warszawa, the idea behind it was conceived by artist Arek Vaz, and was implemented as part of the city’s public ‘participatory budget’.

Depicted is the ‘General Plan for Great Warsaw’, an urban spatial plan that was developed in 1928 by a team of architects and engineers under the direction of Stanisław Różański. With Warsaw’s population projected to triple to up to three million residents by 1958, Różański’s team sought to counter the chaos of such a population explosion by establishing new districts and infrastructure that would readily absorb the rising numbers of people.

Measuring six meters in height, and costing an estimated zł. 50,000, the neon, fittingly somewhat, can be found decorating the façade of the Office of Architecture and Spatial Planning on Marszałkowska 77/79.

State Of The Art New mayor Rafał Traszkowski has sought permission to sink a further zł. 180 million into the construction of a Museum of Modern Art. Projected to cost an estimated zł. 420 million, the museum will slot inside the empty gap outside the Palace of Culture and consist of two buildings designed by New York-based firm Thomas Phifer & Partners. Should councilors approve Traszkowski’s motion, the museum could be ready for Spring 2022.

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PHOTOGRAPH FROM TOP; KEVIN DEMARIA, PRESSMATERIAL

CULTURE

GURU REDEFINES

MODERN INDIAN CUISINE

Our focus from the start has been to create modern Indian dishes and drinks, served in a relaxed space. We combine local seasonal ingredients with the authentic flavors, aromas and spices of India and the orient.

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News every graphic has an extra, mysterious element of spice.

Why are Polish posters so good?

The famous ‘Polish School of Poster’ is just a ‘School of Thinking’. Graphic designers in Poland in the 1970s had limited technical capabilities. The simplicity of expression that was used simplified the artistic form, which was caused by the search for new solutions.

What are your early memories of Polish poster art?

My father is a graphic designer so I grew up in a studio whirling in paint fumes and solvents. From an early age I had contact with Polish posters and as a child I adored the work of Jan Lenica!

Warning: Graphic Content!

Katarzyna Jasińska – one half of the Gra-Fika design studio – talks about the world of Polish posters…

Do you have a favorite building from the series, and if so, why?

Supersam! I would love to walk inside, unfortunately that’s not possible anymore. The building has such a beautiful form and I think that’s emphasized by the poster.

What is it that inspires you?

I’m rather inspired by the era and the comprehensive assumptions of modernism in art, architecture and design.

What makes a good poster?

Though there isn’t a universal recipe for the perfect poster, there are a few ingredients that should be used in terms of composition and color. The most important thing, however, is to properly mix the form and content in the right proportions. Of course,

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Describe your style?

Uniquely minimalistic, modern, but with a touch of retro. The themes, esthetics and colors all refer to the 50’s, 60’s and 70’s.

For more on Katarzyna’s work with Gra-Fika, see: gra-fika.com

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF GRAF-FIKA

POSTER ART

Your ‘architecture’ series focuses on the PRL era – what is it you find beautiful about Poland’s postmodernist architecture?

Through its system of governance and lack of democracy Poland’s modernist architecture existed in a unique dimension. Architects had the chance to implement comprehensive visions and large urban planning projects.

Unfortunately, the problem was the lack of finance: thus the cheap materials and terrible finishing.

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News CIT Y

Caught Napping Inspired by the Japanese phenomenon of inemuri (a.k.a. napping in public places), a customized Suzuki Carry van has hit the streets of Warsaw allowing bedraggled workers the chance to chill out and catch up on sleep. The idea of art director Dawid Zalesky, the soundproofed vehicle has been fitted out with a calming oak interior and a 1.85 meter mattress. Subdued lighting, essential oils and a sound system playing soothing sounds complete the user experience.

“Coming from a small village,” says Zalesky, “my contact with nature feels disturbed now I live in this big, dynamic city. I was always interested in meditation or mindfulness, especially in the context of overwhelming stress and that – together with my firsthand experience of inemuri in Japan – led me to creating this house on wheels.” Designed in cahoots with PL Studio and CTRL+N Studio, a 30-minute is free of charge though donations to support the project are welcome.

MUR AL S

Gone To The Wall One of Praga’s best-loved murals is to fall under the hammer and disappear from Stalowa after construction began on an adjoining plot. The work of Ernest Zacharevic, Playground debuted in 2015 as part of the city’s Street Art Doping event. Showing a group of children scaling a globe-shaped climbing frame, the mural aimed to draw attention to Warsaw’s lack of urban planning. But whether or not the work will vanish for good is open to debate; local activists have stated they are currently engaged in talks to recreate the artist’s work elsewhere.

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PHOTOGRAPHS FROM TOP; PRESS MATERIAL, KEVIN DEMARIA

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News CULTURE

Catch Me While You Can! Until March 10th, visitors to Warsaw’s Royal Castle will be afforded the rare opportunity to view The Stockholm Scroll, a spectacular 15-meter long frieze that has gone on public display for the first time since 2002.

Depicting the 1605 wedding procession of Zygmunt III Vasa and his 16-year-old Austrian bride, the Archduchess Constance, the historic work was pillaged during the Swedish Deluge later that same century and remained hidden in a Stockholm armory for the next 300 years.

Returned to Poland in 1974 on the behest of Prime Minister Olof Palme – who would later be mysteriously murdered by an unknown assailant – the scintillating work has since been subject to a painstaking restoration process that saw it divided into individual panels. A valuable insight into the social customs of the time, the specific climate conditions needed to preserve the scroll ensure that it’s unlikely it will return on show again for at least another decade.

HISTORY

Mapped Out Published by the Museum of Warsaw, a new book detailing the city’s post-war development has hit the shelves as part of the acclaimed Plan Warszawy series. Putting the year 1955 under the spotlight, the extensive work features a reproduced map originally drawn-up ahead of the Fifth World Youth & Student Festival held that year. A unique testament to the time, the optimism and excitement associated with the reconstruction of the capital shines through, but so too does the paranoia – heavily censored by the authorities, railway lines, airports and bridges were all removed, effectively rendering the map useless for anyone visiting Warsaw. Accompanied by an in-depth study of the capital at that point in time, order your copy from the museum’s online store at: sklep.muzeumwarszawy.pl

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PHOTOGRAPHS FROM TOP; COURTESY OF THE ROYAL CASTLE, COURTESY OF THE MUSEUM OF WARSAW

The Royal Castle in Warsaw Pl. Zamkowy 4, zamek-krolewski.pl

News SOCIAL MEDIA

Get Tagging A new café aimed at tech fiends and social media addicts has been opened inside the Prosta Tower. Specifically geared towards digital nomads, youtubers, podcasters and influencers, #TAG’s facilities include image stabilizers, lighting equipment and microphones, all of which are free for customers to rent.

Redefining the image of ‘the working café’, the owners are hopeful that #TAG will become inexorably associated with the production of high quality digital content.

TR ANSPORT

Lime Scooters Leave Sour Taste

MUSIC

On Song A four-piece folk group famed for their quirky cover songs have been selected to represent Poland at the Eurovision Song Contest to be held in Tel Aviv in May. Hailing from Szczecin, Tulia first came to attention in 2017 after sharing their adaptation of Depeche Mode’s Enjoy The Silence on YouTube. Performing in traditional costume, the platinum-selling band have since become a global sensation with their rendition of Metallica’s Nothing Else Matters viewed over five million times online.

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PHOTOGRAPHS FROM TOP; PRESS MATERIAL, KEVIN DEMARIA, FACEBOOK

It’s been announced that, thus far, eighty-three Lime scooters have been impounded after being left strewn around the city. Complaints and concerns about the electric scooters have hit fever pitch as users continue to abandon them in inappropriate places. Despite the public backlash, the number of scooters is on the rise, with some estimates suggesting that the Polish capital could soon be flooded by anything up to 60,000 bearing the Lime logo.

PHOTOGRAPHY ALLOTMENTS

WEED IT & REAP For the last four years architect Wojciech Mazan has undertaken a mission to record the allotment gardens of Poland through his Atlas Altan project. Taking him into the deepest recesses of the country, his photographic study has dug to the roots of this little publicized world…

How far are you into your project?

The Polish Allotment Federation estimates that there are around one million allotments in the country; of that, I’ve got around 5,000 in my collection – there’s still a long way to go. But the Atlas Altan is by no means unique, and neither is it meant to be.

There were (and possibly are) other collections dedicated to the same topic. What binds all of these projects together is our fascination with allotments and dedication to capturing them on camera.

What interests you most about them?

Their architecture and design; or, often, their complete lack of either.

From the crazy allotment castles that you come across, to the more mundane wooden sheds, there’s almost a complete disregard for established structural and aesthetic rules. Instead,

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ALL PHOTOGRAPHS BY WOJCIECH MAZAN

Where does your love for allotments come from?

I wouldn’t call my fascination with allotments a love, more a deep curiosity. They’re so deeply embedded in the Polish landscape but we tend to overlook them, despite the amazing things that happen in them. For example, there was one gardener, Kazimierz Domański, that had a vision of the Virgin Mary in his allotment back in the 1980s. After that, he began healing people…

allotments are all about the ‘joy of creation’ and of making something that’s your own.

Have there been any standout allotments?

Most people like the crazy ones: the castles, extravagant villas, converted buses, old caravan trailers and, in one instance, a self-constructed dome.

Personally, though, I like the small, ordinary wooden ones you see that have been entirely constructed by the gardener and painted in whatever shade of paint has been leftover from his last round of home improvements.

How do people respond to you peering over their fence to take pictures of their property?

You get three types: first, the person who tells you to “get the fuck away!”

They’re worried I’m either a developer looking at their property or some kind of official from the Polish Allotment Federation checking that their shed doesn’t exceed the max. 35 sq/m.

Needless to say, I’m neither. Then you’ve got the person who doesn’t care at all. They’re more preoccupied with their garden and just let me get on with it. I like that attitude. Finally, the last type sees the camera and gets really excited. “Let me show you my tomatoes,” and all that kind of thing. It always ends in a long conversation about the history of the garden, a look around the shed and, occasionally, some vegetables to take home.

Are you only interested in Polish allotments?

Yes, and so we all should be! Instead of proposing these big museums that have no connection to reality, we should be thinking about building a Museum of Allotments – at least then we would exhibit and preserve something that people really care for.

Where are your favorite allotments?

I like the ones found in the small towns in the middle of nowhere: the parts of Poland that most people pass without second thought. In these areas of the country you won’t find fences; the allotments aren’t divided and the communities are strong.

For more on Wojciech's allotment addiction, see: instagram.com/atlasaltan

warsawinsider.pl

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FASHION UNDER COMMUNISM

POST-WAR

Though reeling from the psychological and physical trauma of the war – not to mention the new political system that had been imposed upon them – it is a testament to the Polish spirit that life flourished anew. As early as 1945, Jadwiga Grabowska opened the Feniks Fashion Salon on the corner of Koszykowa and Marszałkowska, seizing her inspirations from the French fashion titles of the time. Whilst Grabowska’s elegant creations were out of reach for most Poles, the privations of the time didn’t stop everyone from at least trying to look their best. Speaking much for the resourcefulness of the age, examples exist of beautiful creations made from parachute material and blankets sent in Western aid packages. Startlingly, one account from the era even tells of a skirt produced using 17 black silk ties once worn by members of the SS .

BEGINNINGS

In Vogue

Fashion in the paradoxical society of communist Poland…

Publicly, at least by the authorities, Western fashion trends were sneered upon for their bourgeois flash and general impracticality. The modern woman, empowered and emancipated by communism, was to be asexualized with the regime pushing a modest, frumpy style that favored buttoned-up blouses and almost masculine silhouettes. Famously, a painting by Wojciech Fangor dated from 1950 depicts a stern working couple, the woman dressed in a blue overall, staring disdainfully at a bitchy Western-styled moll attired in sunglasses.

The implication of decadence was clear, but in their excitement to portray the indulgences of the immoral West, the government’s actions backfired spectacularly. Equipped with the knowledge of what Western women were wearing, skilled tailors and seamstresses enjoyed a roaring trade knocking out copycat clothing emulating fashions on the other side of the Iron Curtain.

THE HEYDAY

T he post-Stalinist thaw instigated

by Nikita Khrushchev paved the way for a more liberal society, something that was reflected by the changing face of fashion. Jadwiga Grabowska continued to wield great influence, and this grew even further after she

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was installed as the artistic director of Moda Polska, a state-owned fashion company founded in 1958. Permitted to travel to Paris and other centers of world fashion, her designs enabled privileged Polish women to mimic the latest global trends.

No-one, however, captured the zeitgeist in quite the same way as Barbara Hoff. Fondly known as The Dictator (owing to her ability to direct the course of domestic fashion), her weekly column in Przekrój dealt advice on how to turn mundane materials into the latest must-haves (curtains and umbrella taffeta, for example, could be transformed into on-trend dance dresses). Later launching her own label, Hoffland, her garments and accessories were enthusiastically hailed for their groundbreaking look. In a deliciously ironic twist, while the products of the state-run Moda Polska were only truly accessible to the wives and daughters of the commie elite, it was Barbara Hoff, born into the upper class, that democratized fashion for all.

reality of life under communism.

More pertinently, it was fashion that enabled women to channel their identity and sense of individuality.

“That was out fight for freedom, our fight against Russification,” Barbara Hoff later revealed in an interview with Gazeta Wyborcza in 2016. “I thought that fashion could make people more open-minded, that it taught tolerance.

And when you become more open to fashion, you become more open to other things.”

“

it was fashion that enabled women to channel their identity and sense of individuality

THE 80S

The suicidal financial policy pursued by the Polish government throughout the 1970s was unsustainable. Propped up by Western loans, the moment the purse strings were cut the economy tanked sparking widespread social unrest. From this, the Solidarity trade union was born, and while women played an immense role in the protests that followed (indeed, it was the sacking of a female shipyard worker that directly led to Solidarity’s formation), Joanna Regina Kowalska of The National Museum in Kraków claims that they struck an equally significant blow against the government through the medium of fashion.

“Women were very active in the resistance movement,” she says, “but the most visible manifestation of independence and individuality, virtues hated in communist ideology, was the way of dressing up.” Though the shops stood resolutely empty, Polish women once again demonstrated the depths of their ingenuity by concocting highly original clothing from cast-off wool salvaged from carpet factories or even bits of diapers. Through fashion, women were able to express themselves and smash through the grim

warsawinsider.pl

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TRAVEL SZUFLANDIA

Marching Into Spring For the ultimate chill, point yourself southwards for a break to remember…

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Need To Know

Szuflandia sits 380 kilometers south west of Warsaw, tucked up tightly next to the Czech Republic border. Plan for around 4hrs 30 mins if you’re driving. The nearest big city lies 40 minutes away and is Bielsko-Bialo.

Trains run frequently between Warsaw and BB with journey time pegged at around three hours.

Apartments at Szuflandia are priced between zł.

280 and 450 a night with a minimum stay of at least three nights.

Szuflandia ul. Wańkowska 15A (Wisła), szuflandia.wisla.pl

the structure’s core, snuggle on down to take in sweeping views of rolling hills capped with pristine forest. From the warmth of your perch, watching the skies switch color is the best show of all.

C

omposed of interlocking cubes and oblongs stacked onto one another, there’s a good chance that the concept behind Szuflandia could well have been coined after an epic game of Tetris. But that’s speculation, the official line asserts it was inspired by a chest of pulled-out drawers.

Either way, it’s stunning, and the critics agree. Voted Poland’s top architectural project of 2016, it staved off competition from blue ribbon ventures such as Hala Koszyki and the Warsaw Spire to claim top spot in the Polska Architektura vote three years back. But while it looks good, does it feel good?

ANYTHING ELSE?

THE EXPERIENCE

Designed by the acclaimed Brandys studio, Szuflandia was built with ‘recharge’ in mind; even the owners – a husband and wife team – suggest that it’s best to stay there in order to do ‘nothing’.

Certainly, it’s a space well geared towards just that. At Szuflandia, hygge becomes more than just a word that’s empty of any meaning. A place of natural materials and well-chosen fabrics, it unlocks the soul to realign your spirit. Here, you breathe again. Proudly touting a no TV policy, the only screen you need is the one out in front.

Featuring floor-to-ceiling windows and ‘hanging bedrooms’ built to jut out from

The value of old-fashioned pursuits becomes that much clearer at Szuflandia. Books and boardgames, notebooks and sketchpads are all welcome companions at this mesmerizing escape.

Embrace, also, the great outdoors.

Rugged hiking paths and challenging mountain bike routes all lie close by, as does the quiet town of Wisła.

Unexpected gems include a Museum of Parachuting, a string of quaint wooden chapels and an inter-war castle built for the President of Poland.

One of Poland’s all-time sporting icons, ski jumper Adam Małysz, grew up in town, and his presence is never far away: view the silverware he amassed at the Gallery of Adam Małysz before tracking down a giant chocolate statue of the legendary athlete. Weighing 180 kilos, it now stands behind protective glass to discourage peckish fans from tasting their hero.

With no restaurant on-site at Szuflandia (all apartments feature fully-equipped kitchens), dine in one of the highland restaurants in town, before heading back to finish the day basking in the heat and steam of the Finnish and Roman saunas. warsawinsider.pl

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Hungary For More!

Watched over by Beata Trón-Nowak, Borpince is a restaurant and wine bar whose philosophy is based upon Hungary’s rich culinary traditions. Offering fabulous wines from the top Hungarian vineyards, find these alongside dishes that mix original flavors with modern techniques. Our dynamic menu is based on carefully selected seasonal produce imported directly from Hungary.

Borpince ul. Zgoda 1, borpince.pl

Walks and Polish Talks Do you want to learn Polish while finding out more about famous Varsovians?

Walk in the footsteps of famous Poles such Chopin, Curie, Wedel, and Poniatowski.

Explore Chopin’s Warsaw on a March Saturday morning.

For more details, see: cupofpolish.com/Polishwalks or email kontakt@cupofpolish.com

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A Star Is Born

A star-studded opening on February 21st saw some of Poland’s biggest names gather to enjoy the cooking of Paweł Rumowski, the head chef at the newly-launched Pam Pam restaurant. Specializing in premium, fine dining Pam Pam is the latest venture from the creators of the Myoni Group, a luxury real estate firm well acquainted with dealing only with the best. Unique in every manner, we look forward to welcoming you inside our elegantly timeless interior for a gourmet culinary journey that will live long in the memory.

Pam Pam ul. Emilii Plater 9/11

Unusual Sensations

Brand new restaurant on Krucza, at Kongresówka we specialize in ‘uncommon cuisine’: serving unusual dishes, visit us for calf’s brain, steak made using veal heart, herring milk, crayfish or ostrich steak.

Kongresówka Krucza 16/22

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WELCOME TO THE GOOD OLD DAYS!

A classic feature of pre-war Warsaw, Aurelio is where burlesque returns to life!

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eld on February 2nd, Aurelio’s burlesque evening proved a night to remember with cocktails prepared by Bartosz Paluszkiewicz according to original recipes from interwar bartending guides. The event also saw the debut of new items from our Old Warsaw menu. Capping the event were a host of extras dressed in period costume from the Ivy Historical Reconstruction Group.

The highlight, though, was a burlesque show performed by Pin Up Candy, Red Juliette and Miss Mistress, the latter performing inside a giant glass of champagne. In addition, Ferajna z Baru Warszawa – a part of the Orkiestra z Chmielnej – played the greatest hits of the era. Our guests also enjoyed delicious cakes prepared by Blikle, our official confectionery partner.

Aurelio ul. Świętokrzyska 14, fb.com/aureliowarsaw

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ELEGANCE PERSONIFIED AT THE AMBER ROOM Chef Lee Jones invites you to experience a meal to remember…

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he Amber Room Restaurant is located inside the historic Sobański Palace on the Royal Route running down Warsaw’s elegant Aleje Ujazdowskie. The restaurant specializes in fine dining and modern European cuisine whilst also featuring Polish dishes. Famed for using the highest quality seasonal ingredients, producing its own pastries as well offering an exhaustive collection of unique wines, the restaurant was recognized in the 2018 edition of the Michelin Guide with four couverts. Further, last year saw the restaurant receive Wine Spectator’s exclusive Award of Excellence and included in the La Liste rankings of the world’s best restaurants.

The Amber’s Room’s Welsh chef, Lee Jones, has reached the finals of numerous cooking competitions and bossed several Michelin-starred kitchens and restaurants. His experience also includes a stint at the fine dining La Finca restaurant in the exclusive La Manga golf club in Southern Spain.

On the Amber Room’s latest menu, Lee Jones invites you to enjoy dishes such as smoked eel with foie gras, beetroot couscous and a vodka and orange caramel tuille; vegan cabbage soup; venison loin served with salt-baked celeriac, carrots, orange, cardamom and Port wine. The menu also includes guinea fowl breast with chorizo, lentils, parsnip and stuffed bon bon; pan-fried Dover Sole, saffron potatoes, macerated spinach and hollandaise sauce; and roasted cod, ravioli with scallop and lobster, spinach and shellfish sauce.

Amber Room Restaurant Aleje Ujazdowskie 13, tel. +48 600 800 999 recepcja@amberroom.pl, www.amber-room.pl

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eat!

You’ll probably already recognize Marcin and Przemek from their mobile stand that became one of the unforgettable sights of Nocny Market last summer: well, their success was such that a bricks-andmortar venture felt the next logical step. The stationary address is everything you want: scruffy, frayed and busy, and the living embodiment of the street food vibe. The ideal outlet for their concept, step inside a rackety interior to join other hip creatures Instagramming the only jiro ramen to be found in Warsaw. Once you’re done doing that, kick back to slurp over big, steamy bowls of spicy miso ramen.

Yatta Bartoszewicza 3, fb.com/YattaBowl

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PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

SUPER NOODLES

EAT! review

Polana Smaków ul. E. Plater 14, polanasmakow.pl

brother he’s not told anyone about.

Despite being a permanent fixture on TV, it’s a rare occurrence not to find him prowling his award winning restaurant. Being everywhere at once is not his only skill: a passionate advocate of the natural tastes of Poland, his most potent talent lies in seeking out arcane ingredients then assembling them to form dishes that are, on one hand, clear and coherent, and on the other, works of explosive taste.

THE FOOD

POLE POSITION

Andrzej Polan returns with a splash in city center Warsaw

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hen Mała Polana Smaków first opened in 2015 it left our reviewer in a quandary: “where to begin,” he pondered, “with the good bits? The brilliant bits? Or just the best bits?” Four years on, a visit to their newest location has left our man in much the same pickle.

THE PLACE

Trading a no-man’s land location for city center Warsaw, December’s move already seems to be working out well.

Though dropping the ‘Mała’ part of

their name, don’t expect to find all that much more room at the new address: compact and woodsy, it’s retained the intimacy of the original, the only difference being a design that feels less country cottage and a little more designed – big curtains, trimmed shrubbery and the liberal use of pre-war tiling all add to that impression. On first look, you know it’s ideal for date night.

THE CHEF

There’s no other explanation: either Andrzej Polan has mastered the art of teleportation, or he's got a secret twin

Like before, the menu’s a small affair divvied into ‘small’, ‘deep’, ‘large’ and ‘sweet’ plates – or, in layman’s terms, starters, soups, mains and dessert.

Kicking-off is a bit of a no-brainer.

First, tartar, the benchmark on which all Polish restaurants are judged, as well as herring, a specialty of Polan. The former is well-seasoned and textured as it should, and comes with the added twist of pickled cabbage and marinated tomato. The latter, meanwhile, is something else entirely: proof of genius.

Laid out like a reclining nude, find shiny slithers of marinated herring posed on an arc of pumpkin and orange sauce, the scene framed by a homemade bagel and seasonal berries. Few chefs do a better job than Andrzej Polan when it comes to making herring sexy.

Moving forward, and mains are a joy: catfish in dill cream with smoked potatoes and porcini mushrooms; and a Warsaw-style pork loin with egg and horseradish elements. Both feel sophisticated yet reassuringly simple.

Then, finally, dessert. It’s a sin. Finishing with a boozy donut soaked in punch and puffed to extremes with a blast of vanilla cream, it’s the kind of conclusion that leaves you in rapture.

FINAL THOUGHT

He’s done it again. Weaving spells of magic wherever he lays his toque, Andrzej Polan has struck gold again.

Nothing over-the-top, it’s a menu that harnesses the tastes of rural Poland while angling them to the modern palate – maintaining balance, never do these dishes feel over-thought or needlessly complex. It’s food you understand. And the bill? That too is a pleasant surprise. With drinks and tip, a full dinner for two won’t point far more north than zł. 300. warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings

Poland’s Indian scene is heating up – and in Guru’s case, literally. Not content with serving some of the more sophisticated ethnic tastes in the city, they’ve now covered the other end of the Scoville scale by introducing the country’s first phaal to their far-ranging repertoire. Complete with a legal disclaimer (along the lines of, “eat this and die”), it’s a weapons grade curry and the deadliest rung of all on the Indian ladder. Not too different from having a couple of cobras writhing inside your guts (and no, we don’t mean the beer), think of it as a true test of mettle for heatseeking palates.

Guru ul. Widok 8, gururestauracja.pl

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PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

PRIDE BEFORE A PHAAL

EAT! Listings By in large, you can expect to pay between zł. 20-35 for starters, and zł.

35-70 for mains. Expect those prices to double in the case of the city’s fine dining venues. Those wishing to cut costs should seek out the weekday business lunch deals now offered by most restaurants. When tipping, 10-20% is considered polite though be aware of automatic service charges in some venues.

american 37 bakeries 37 balkan 37 chinese 37 comfort & street food 38 desserts 38 fine dining 38 french 40 georgian 40 greek & turkish 40 indian 41 indonesian 42 international 42 italian 47 japanese & sushi 48 korean 49 latin & spanish 50 mexican 50 middle eastern 50 polish 51 scandinavian 58 seafood 58 specialty food shops 58 steak houses 58 thai 59 ukrainian 60 vegan & wholefood 60 vietnamese 60

american Koko & Roy Spotlighting ‘New American Cuisine’, the thrust here is on comfort food, albeit several steps beyond what you’d rustle up at home: the Odds & Ends (deep fried pigs tails and chicken hearts tumbled into a big bowl and served with pickled red onions and a lash of sriracha aioli) are bold, unexpected and utterly delicious.

Fun, innovative and pleasingly casual, it’s a bit like visiting friends who really know how to cook. Take it all in inside a brill interior that’s all Sputnik lights, intriguing artwork and mustard-toned finishes. (D5) ul. Wilcza 43

bakeries Aromat That many consider this their favorite bakery says it all. French flour and an expert baker ensure brilliant results, while the lemon éclairs deserve their own Facebook page. (C4) ul. Sienna 39, fb.com/ piekarnia.aromat Café Vincent Queues build quickly as locals line up to buy baguettes, cinnamon rolls, lemon croissants and beautiful pains au chocolat.

But people don’t just head in then out, a small wine list and brilliant people spying opportunities cause many to hang around.

(D3) ul. Nowy Świat 64 SAM Co-owner Małgorzata Kusina-Doran is a fine-bread connoisseur, honing her skills at a bread-making course chaired

by Raymond Blanc. While SAM have expanded to cover numerous locations, this has not been to the cost of the overall quality. many locations, sam.info.pl

balkan Banja Luka Lots of clunky timber and imported ceramics set the scene at this eatery, a Balkan stalwart that’s known for its economical pricing structure and bulky portions. Grilled meats are prominent and

the food largely reliable. (E8) ul. Szkolna 2/4, tel. 22 828 1060, banjaluka.pl Na Bałkany This newbie modernizes the Balkan experience in a manner Warsaw’s yet to see: raw, industrial aesthetics meet head on with a menu that adds a delicate finesse to a cuisine better known for its heavy, rustic style. The addition of a light, sophisticated hand has not, however, been to the detriment of taste. Of the favorites, the swordfish steak, lamb goulash and beef plejskavica sell particularly well. It feels all the more complete with a rakija or three. Full review soon. (D6) ul.

Koszykowa 47 (entry from ul. Koszykowa 53), tel. 22 118 38 38, nabalkany.pl

chinese

Pańska 85 Ample in size, the interiors speak of money well spent. This is especially true because despite the luxury trimmings Pańska looks good without ever losing its dignity. With their kitchen staff headhunted from across China, the food sets a standard that has yet to be seen in any Chinese restaurant in Warsaw: there’s delicate salmon rolls wrapped in mango; dim sum that are pouches of pure goodness; and Sichuan-style pork that’s a blaze of sizzle and spice.

The Beijing Duck, carved and served table-side, is the highlight. (B4) ul. Pańska 85, panska85.com Regina Bar Taking their inspiration from New York’s Little Italy and Chinatown, the menu at Regina is the very definition of ethnic comfort food: won-ton dumplings, ribs in sticky hoisin sauce and the best-selling General Tso chicken – famed for its healing properties, it’s one of the best hangover remedies around. On the Italian front, leopard-spotted pizzas land are presented with wheel-bladed knives in a kooky, retro interior featuring a dangling chandelier and the tallest mirror in Poland (possibly). (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, fb.com/Reginabar warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings comfort & street food Burger Bar Warsaw has come full-circle: years after burgers briefly starred as the national food, it’s the original burger joint that still bosses the field. ul. Puławska 974/80 (enter from Olkuska) & ul. Krucza 41/43, burgerbar.waw.pl Efes Forget the restaurant bit, it’s the window hatch you’ll want. Here, muddy manual laborers and polo-shirted locals tolerate each other to stand in chaotic queues that often snake onto the street. The reason? Warsaw’s finest kebab. (H4) ul.

Francuska 1, tel. 22 616 2580, restauracjaefes.pl Hala Gwardii Housed in a red brick hall dating from the Tsarist era, Gwardii opens up as a sensory big bang of smell, taste, sight and sound. Framed by a market on one side, and food units on the other, it’s a catch-all social solution that shines the spotlight on independent vendors offering various cuisines Warsaw ain’t seen before. In terms of tenants, big changes have happened – and continue to happen.

Bye to Keboom, Melt, and countless other editorial faves, hello to the superb Gorilla Coffee. Of the new additions, we’ve been told Ye Ye Mex will be entering anytime soon. (C3) Pl. Mirowska 2, halagwardii.pl Hala Koszyki Nirvana for the aspirational classes, careful surgery has preserved the heritage of this early 20th century marketplace and juxtaposed it against the urban tapestry of modern Warsaw.

Appealing to everyone from foodies and families to Instagram scenesters, its success has sparked a nationwide wave of doubles and duplicates. But despite their best efforts, none come close to feeling quite so global. Not ones to stand still, May saw the addition of a narrow indoor avenue towards the back flanked on each side by busy street food stalls. Walking around Koszyki, find all from Korean noodles, Spanish tapas, Mexican burritos, Greek kebabs and so much more. (D6) ul.

Koszykowa 63, koszyki.com

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Kur & Wino It’s hard to fault a simple concept when it’s executed this well. In this case, that means rotisserie chickens and guinea fowl served on wooden trays with an array of homemade sauces that include sweet plum, spicy mango and Sriracha.

Amiable service, a funky / retro design (old LPs, PRL-era flooring and a bank of step-seats sprinkled with cushions) and a decent selection of craft beers and wines complete the picture. Young and fun, it’s exactly what Muranów has been missing for several years. (C1) ul. Andersa 21 Kura Pairing fried chicken with double-fried chunky chips, think of this budget stop as an artisanal take on KFC for the posthipster generation. And best of all, check their homemade sauces: from the tart and spicy Challenger No. 3, to the tangy Mango-BBQ option, these are sauces that open the gateway to addiction. The ultimate definition of comfort food, look on Kura as one of the city’s best examples of street food culture gone right. (B2) ul.

Nowolipki 15, restauracjakura.pl Pogromcy Meatów Yearn no more for the elusive flavor of the backyard BBQ. Specializing in grilled meat, find exactly just that loaded into artisan buns alongside locally grown greens. The sense of homespun quality makes this the kind of comfort food that Warsaw has been missing for years. (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, tel. 505 703 508 Postępu 5 Christened Mordor by the despairing employees who head there each working day, the area around Domaniewska doesn’t have the best public image. though, there isn’t just hope, but also a solution to realign the spirit of this quarter. Call it Postępu 5, a collection of street vendors housed in a line of former garages and storage units. Highlights inc.

Blin (for Russian-style pancakes), Hotto Doggu (Japanese hot dogs), and Roger That Foods, a close quarters burger stop immediately identifiable by the monster smoker set outside. ul. Postępu 5, postepu5.pl Warburger While Warsaw has lost its appetite for burgers, you wouldn’t necessarily tell

by popping in WarBurger. Set inside a diminutive cabin, join the scrum for jazzed-up burgers that use slow-food ingredients. If not the best, they’re most certainly up there. (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1, warburger.pl

desserts Deseo Burakowska Luxury desserts, pralines and tarts served inside an ivy clad building in a leafy post-industrial complex off Burakowska.

The contemporary style is reflected by an interior that’s modern, pared down and richly bathed in sloping sunlight. ul.

Burakowska 5/7, deseopatisserie.com Lukullus Founded in 1946, Lukullus have evolved into a funky boutique cafe chain noted for quirky interiors and buzzy atmosphere.

Oh, and desserts. Renouncing short cuts and low-cost ingredients, this family enterprise has earned a name for top quality desserts that see traditional favorites updated for the modern times.

Various locations, lukullus.pl Miss Mellow Mixing sophisticated desserts with those that fall more on the filthy food porn side of thigs, Miss Mellow have hit the bull’s eye by offering something for everyone that enjoys the sweeter things in life.

Lauded even by Vogue, find a wicked rundown of toasts, brioches, financiers, brownies, cookies and cakes. (D5) ul.

Wilcza 62 MOD Warsaw has always loved donuts, but it took the arrival of MOD to elevate this humble doughy vice to new levels with a glam New York-inspired makeover. The mango topped donut is our favorite by miles. (D7) ul. Oleandrów 8

fine dining Atelier Amaro If Wojciech Amaro’s eponymous restaurant isn’t the most famous in the country, then it’s certainly the most important.

Awarded Poland’s first Michelin star in

EAT! Listings 2013, it’s a venue that continues to set the pace in terms of innovation. Changing weekly, his ‘calendar of nature’ seeks to present forgotten ingredients such as little-known berries, herbs and flowers against meats and other ingredients reared or grown at the Atelier farm. One for any bucket list, there are occasions when dining here can feel like an out-of-body experience. Abandoning their original home at the start of 2019, we’re visiting soon to see if anything’s changed in their new city center venue. (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 10/14, atelieramaro.pl Amber Room at the Sobański Palace Set in the pre-war Pałac Sobańskich, this pristine manor house is everything you expect: hushed, lavish, cultured and classy. The food fits the backdrop: devised

by Robert Skubisz, the contemporary menu draws spontaneous outbreaks of collective joy. Maze-like in its layout, there’s enough nooks and secret rooms to make Amber Room the ideal address for expense account meetings.

(E6) Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, amberroom.pl Belvedere Łazienki Królewskie Set in an imperial age glass orangery, it’s festooned with intricate latticework and botanical exotica. The updated interiors are the work of acclaimed set designer Boris Kudlicka, and lend a fresh, contemporary tone that goes hand in

hand with the menu. But behind the gels and emulsions and pretty little swirls, this is cooking of substantial depth; it’s cooking that takes you to the very soul of Polish nature. (F6) ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. 22 558 6701, belvedere.com.pl Chłodna 15 by Wilamowski Gone are the Alice in Wonderland decorations of the previous tenant, La Maison, replaced instead by a muted charcoal look that’s reassuringly refined – for the time you’re here, you forget you’re on the ground floor of a 70s tower block. Aiding the amnesia is the classic French cooking of Arkadiusz Wilamowski: small and mercurial in its content, the daily-changing menu is a work of preposterous detail – no sauce takes less than a day to make.

So the rumors go, Michelin are watching closely. (B3) ul. Chłodna 15, choldna15.pl Europejski Grill The flagship restaurant of the Raffles Europejski has cut no corners in their bid to become one of the city’s top restaurants. A seriously swish interior of pearl white colors is teed-up against contemporary flashes (hexagonal lighting, outsized plates hanging from the wall) and gleaming silverware. Enjoying precisely composed dishes such as beetroot tartar or Dover Sole is a welltailored crowd that expects nothing but the best. (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, raffles.com/warsaw

N31 Been there, done it all. That’s Robert Sowa, a national treasure widely hailed for modernizing Poland’s gastronomic sector back in the country’s culinary dark days. A common sight on TV, the chef’s public profile has meant there’s no shortage of bums on seats in his flagship restaurant, but this is more than a chef trading on his past. A chic city center bubble beloved by business types, the food is first class with Sowa’s international travels reflected by surprises such as flawless tuna partnered with kabayaki sauce, yuzu, wasabi dressing and turnip salad. The flavor combinations are exceptional. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 31, n31restaurant.pl

Nolita BEST WAWA 2017 “Fine Dining” For many diners, there is no bigger night out than one that begins and ends in this enclave of class. Dashing in its monochrome colors and muted gunmetal shades, Nolita is where Warsaw heads to live the life of the 1%. Lacking the magic tricks of some, the ‘show factor’ might be subdued but the tastes definitely aren’t.

Who to credit? Two words: Jacek Grochowina. Cooking with poise and focus, his menu is a marriage of the classic

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EAT! Listings and creative, with core ingredients given unexpected lifts with cunning turns and inspired little twists: maybe some yuzu with the tartare or konbu with the eel. (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 292 0424, nolita.pl Platter by Karol Okrasa It’s a fact that Okrasa’s appearances in the kitchen are fleeting and rare, but that’s done nothing to hurt this restaurant’s prestige. Head chef Łukasz Pielak has proved to be a lethal assassin, executing the ideas of his mentor with accuracy and passion. The cooking is detailed, balanced and elegant, with the highlight of our visit being deer in plum sauce. A thing of imperial, velvety richness it’s a dish that turns up the volume on a memorable experience. (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (Hotel InterContinental Warsaw), warsaw.intercontinental.com Senses Diners are best advised to leave logic outside. Inspired by the idea of ‘note-by-note’ cooking, Italian-born chef Andrea Camastra isolates and extracts molecules from ingredients to obtain the purest flavors before matching them up with unlikely partners. What unfolds is a dazzling show of near illusory brilliance; the technical proficiency of the kitchen is exceptional and makes the WTF prices easier to swallow. Wrap-up the evening with a pungent, edible cigar. (C2) ul.

Bielańska 12, tel. 22 331 9697, sensesrestaurant.pl Signature If you thought hotel restaurants were the mundane realm of business travelers then you haven’t visited Signature.

The design incorporates architectural elements from the times this functioned as the Soviet Embassy, Oswald chairs and photos of Marilyn shot by Milton Greene. Then, along comes the food, a sophisticated pan-European event with occasional Polish accents. Dessert, especially the mille-feuille, should not be missed. (D5) ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 55 38755, signaturerestaurant.pl

french Bistro la Cocotte With access through a shadowy

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courtyard, the sensation you’re stepping inside a little secret is a pleasure in itself. Presenting itself in a riot of red and white gingham Cocotte feels warm and intimate, a factor aided by a small open kitchen and the atmosphere of home.

The menu, chalked up on the blackboard, is a flexible affair that makes use of the ingredients at hand, and is divided into a smattering of light bites, desserts and plat du jour. (D6) ul. Mokotowska 12, tel.

664 906 000

unfiltered Lithuanian beer. (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 45A, klukovka.pl

L’Arc Looking elegant with its black/white floors and subtle decorations bills at L’Arc can become big number affairs – especially if you hanker for seafood. Pick from numerous types of oysters or delve into the fish tank for the lobster of your choosing. The catchment area extends beyond the borders of Mokotów, not just because of their ‘fresh from France’ seafood, but because of classic dishes such as Mulard duck and Burgundy snails. (E8) ul. Puławska 16, larc.pl

Rusiko To the uninitiated, Georgian food is representative of the heart, spirit and passion of its people; it’s a cuisine that values the concept of the feast: wine, laughter and song find themselves elevated to roles of primary importance. A food of life, spice and whole-hearted tastes, consider Rusiko as the best ambassador there is for this surprisingly diverse kitchen. Note: closed Monday. (E5) Al. Ujazdowskie 22, tel.

22 629 0628, rusiko.pl

georgian Chinkali Signposted by a Georgian-language shingle, there’s a real sense of pleasure about this place. More modern than your typical folksy ethnic outpost, Chinkali’s draw is indeed its chinkali: dough purses packed with meaty broth. There’s a genuine homemade quality to these slurpy bundles of joy, meaning that while they’re authentic, consistency can vary.

(D4) ul. Zgoda 3 Klukovka Jana Pawła’s pavilions are the unlikely location of this culinary beacon: amid the aggressive waft of its kebab shop neighbors, Klukova presents itself as a warming mouse hole filled with banter, babble and rich aromas. Specializing in the foods of ‘the east’, this means a menu inspired by the tastes of Georgia, Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan, and more. The mutton manty dumplings are great, and best appreciated with a bottle of

Rioni Warsaw’s foodies like talking of ‘cursed locations’, and they don’t get more hexed than Mokotowska 17. But despite its history of failed ventures, Rioni feel better placed than most to break the jinx. Set in a curving brick room lit by dangling overhead bulbs, join a young-ish crowd for juicy Georgian dumplings oozing with meat and herbs, hearty soups and big, doughy wheels of cheese-filled chaczapuri. (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17 (enter from Pl. Zbawiciela), rioni.pl

greek & turkish Anatolia Looking dark and moody, Anatolia adds a veneer of sophistication to the traditional Turkish dining experience; presentation, you can tell, is important, but so too is the general sense of replicating the standards of home. Meat finds itself treated with reverence, and that holds especially true when it comes to steak and lamb. (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 2, anatolia-waw.pl Maho Maho feels like it’s located at the end of the earth – but its distance deters no-one, least of all its army of hardcore followers. Why are they there? The answer is a Turkish grill that takes you right to the heart of this glorious cuisine.

Highly recommended is the Iskender kebab: layers of juicy doner meat served with scoops of fresh tomato sauce and fresh, thin pide bread straight from the

EAT! Listings wood-fired oven. While you’re there, you may as well stock up on imported goodies from their adjoining store. Al. Krakowska 240/242, maho.com.pl Santorini Santorini looks scuffed and tired but there’s a bonhomie present that instantly engages. The kitchen attaches no value to things like presentation, preferring instead to simply treat diners to piles of grilled and skewered food that consistently tastes right. ul. Egipska 7, tel.

22 672 0525, kregliccy.pl/santorini/ Sofra A highly respected Turkish eatery with a wondrous beef mussaka and a wholly admirable lineup of other ethnic dishes: the lamb shashlik has never failed us.

Pleasingly informal, this neighborhood redoubt feels cheerfully unforced, and it becomes an easy place to hang around in.

(C6) ul. Wilcza 71, tel. 731 847 731

indian Bollywood Lounge Known for their raucous dusk-till-dawn parties, there is another less hedonistic roll filled by Bollywood: that of a restaurant. The menu is an uncomplicated, classic affair that’s an ideal primer for the party ahead. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, tel. 22 827 0283, bollywoodlounge.pl

Curry House Ask for something extra hot in Curry House and by Ganesh that’s what you’ll get. Yet at Curry House there is more to sing about than just Poland’s highest voltage vindaloo. The curries are rich and sumptuous and consistently cited as among the best in the city. If in doubt, the chicken tikka masala is a fail-safe request. ul. Żeromskiego 81 & ul. Hoża 54, curry-house.pl

Bombaj Masala Not just the best looking of Warsaw’s Indian restaurants, Bombaj Masala also has some of the best cooking. With so many restaurants reliant on one ‘master pot’ for their curry, this classy venue feels unique in delivering a variety of rich, intense tastes. The vindaloo is a special standout, with big, punchy flavors that leave you tingling long after you leave.

(B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 606 688 777, bombajmasala.pl

Curry Leaf The post-industrial style is diluted by the number of Indian trinkets hanging off the vents and pipes. Owned by the same crew behind the lauded Curry House, you’d be completely correct to assume consistency and excellence. ul.

Conrada 5, curryleaf.pl

Discover the True Taste of India in Several Locations around Warsaw WWW.CURRY-HOUSE.PL

HOŻA 54

ŻEROMSKIEGO 81

KONDRATOWICZA 59

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EAT! Listings

Guru Moving into the space vacated by the lamentable BrewDog pub, Guru joins the city’s (very) shortlist of higher end Indians.

The menu is a union of local, seasonal ingredients (organic this, farmyard that) and imported spices, coming together to blast the competition out of the water.

From the openers, the chili chicken fry stands out as a dish that’s all snap and crackle, while of the mains the tikka masala is exceptional in taste. Plus points for Indian-themed cocktails that really hit the mark – easily one of our favorite openings of 2018. (D4) ul. Widok 8, gururestauracja.pl House of Curry Heat seekers can ‘enjoy’ a genuine deathby-fire experience at House of Curry, though far milder curries are available for more sensitive palettes – either way, the experience is fantastic, and good news for those stuck out in the depths of Józefów. ul. Patriotów 11 A, house-of-curry.pl Mandala This long-standing legend is known for its ample portions and online delivery service. Sitting down, the creamy mutton methi is a masterpiece, and the Madras recognized for its blitzing big spices. Their latest operation, set out on Sienna, is open for Indian-style breakfast. ul. Emilii Plater 9/11 / ul. Etiudy Rewolucyjnej 9 & ul. Sienna 87, mandalaklub.com or indiaexpress.pl Mr. India Split on two levels the design is contemporary if a little characterless: leather banquettes that leave a sweaty bum print and wood paneling. No problem though: if it looks bland then the food isn’t.

That means an incredible butter chicken that’s deep and immensely satisfying.

Then there’s the vindaloo, an experience that leaves some close to spontaneous combustion. Al. KEN 47, tel. 22 213 0689, mrindia.pl Smak Curry There’s been a nationwide pandemic of average Indian restaurants, but despite the rather slim menu Smak Curry can’t be included in that list of disappoint-

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ments. On the contrary, what the menu lacks in size it compensates in taste: from big, walloping whacks of lavishly spiced pork Madras to sweet but subtle mango chicken, here’s a restaurant that feels it genuinely adds something extra to a saturated market. Complimented by bright, modern interiors and sunny, friendly wait staff, it’s a place that makes a blue day feel that extra bit better. (E8) ul.

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indonesian Warung Jakarta The menu has a street food edge and is divided into steps wherein diners first pick out their choice of protein, then their rice, before concluding with any vegetables add-ons (e.g. pak choy, green beans or water spinach). While most Warsaw restaurants have a special lunch scheme going on, Warung’s is one that actually warrants a further look: find truly great off-menu dishes that are highly accessible to all levels of income. (D6) ul.

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international Ale Wino Blurring the lines between wine bar and restaurant, the style is easy, breezy and powerfully magnetic – occupying a spread of atmospheric rooms to the back of a Mokotowska courtyard, seats are sometimes hard to come by. The reason: chef Sebastian Wełpa. Of the recent highlights, the rump of lamb with horseradish puree, marinated carrot and bison grass sauce stands out as one of the Insider’s top meals of 2018. (F5) ul. Mokotowska 48, tel.

22 628 3830, alewino.pl Aurelio Run by a ‘neuro-gastronomist’, Aurelio aims to connect art and emotions with health and wellbeing via the medium of food. Psychobabble aside, what you’ll find is a beautifully laid-out restaurant with some mesmerizing art, a busy cultural program and a globally-inspired menu based on toxin free produce. For instance, order up a Thai-style duck breast served with orange-ginger puree, elderflower

foam and smoked plum sauce – it’s likely you’ll be impressed. (D4) ul. Świętokrzyska 14, aurelio.pl Bazar Kocha Designed to evoke the spirit of a farmers’ market, the woodsy interior is filled with stall-style units neatly stacked with jars and pots. Yet these are not decorative decoys, but part of a thoughtful grocery offer aimed at showcasing Kocha’s own-made produce. Above all though, this is a restaurant whose menu is strongly influenced by concepts of ‘terroir’. The giant leg of lamb falls off the bone and is a dish to recommend and remember for several months to come. (D6) ul.

Mokotowska 33, bazarkocha.pl Bez Tytułu Gosh. Co-owned by the Kasia Michalski Gallery to the flank, the restaurant feels like a natural extension: find contemporary art and photography set against raw brickwork while pendant bulbs cast a soft light down. Onto the important stuff, and Erwan Debono’s menu makes much of his native French background as well as Poland’s own rich access to produce.

The results come together in a way that’s nuanced and subtle. (D5) ul. Poznańska 16, beztytulu.com Bibenda The menu declares Bibenda to be ‘a celebration of food, drink and togetherness’, and that’s precisely what it is.

Augmenting the warm, busy interiors are a thoughtful selection of craft beers and a concise menu that varies from month-tomonth. The apparent simplicity of the food is illusory and belies the kitchen’s knack for spotting interesting combinations such as goose with pumpkin puree, cranberry / red wine jam and chili caramelized beetroot. Not everything goes to plan, and consistency is an issue, but Bibenda’s general approval ratings show no signs of waning. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 10, tel. 502 770 303, bibenda.pl Brasserie Warszawska Looking for classic cuisine with no daft flights of fancy? Here you have it. At a time when everyone wants to be Ferran Adrià, Brasserie has both a menu and interior that you can understand: panfried foie gras; elegant beef Rossini; and sinful apple tarte tatin, all served inside

EAT! Listings posh interiors of zinc-plated mirrors and chessboard floors. Their Michelin Bib Gourmand is a source of pride, but it’s the number of repeat clients that are the ultimate paean to the skills of the chef.

(E5) ul. Górnośląska 24, tel. 22 628 9423, brasseriewarszawska.pl Bubbles Occupying a small, square room, it’s intimate and relaxed: a place busy with blackboards and bottles, crates and clutter. It radiates warmth and honesty.

The food is exquisite, and includes big, meaty snails farmed in Mazury, and their signature dish: Swiss-style raclette. Presented on a wooden chopping board, this cheese dish is classic melty goodness, and served alongside a pile of potatoes, onions marinated with caramel and candied pumpkin. Considering the place doubles as a champagne bar the prices are remarkably moderate. (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 512 540 913, bubbles.com.pl

Der Elefant This leviathan restaurant unravels in a maze of wrought iron and monochrome tiles – beautiful to look at (it was created

by Oscar-winning set designer Allan Starski), it’s caused a stir for more than just this alone. Where once the menu looked like it was devised by throwing darts at a cookbook, the focus has now been narrowed. While some of the dishes are strictly middling, the filet mignon (zł.

69) is one of the best meat deals in town in terms of quality / price / consistency. (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, tel. 22 890 0010, derelefant.com Dom Here’s the very epitome of casual dining: set on the ground floor of a suburban house, the warm corners and garden views give Dom a real sense of homey charm. In line with all that is a menu that celebrates simple, honest cooking.

Everyone who visits ends up loving the

place. ul. Mierosławskiego 12, tel. 509 165 712, fb.com/RestauracjaDOM Drukarnia Wrapped inside an ugly 1950s facade, this former printing house unravels to expose a sensational interior high on retro pieces: jagged-shaped stone floor tiles, a red neon and stern Socialist era statuettes lend a heavy PRL accent, though the big statement at Drukarnia is supplied courtesy of the architecture itself. Tall windows, high ceilings and a peculiar spiral staircase that disappears into nowhere collude to lend Drukarnia a sense of light, space and depth. The food: limited choice of European standards cooked with competence. If you’re in the area, worth a look ul. Mińska 65, drukarnianapradze.pl Dyletanci Filled with crisp, modern citizens that radiate confidence, Dyletanci intro-

Modern take on Italian cuisine Focaccia Ristorante Senatorska 13/15, Warsaw/Old Town +48 22 829 69 69, restauracja@focaccia.pl www.focaccia.pl

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EAT! Listings duces itself as a bistro set with green banquettes and Tom Dixon lamps. The wine selection is among the best in the nation, while the cooking has been left to Rafał Hreczaniuk, a workaholic chef with outrageous talent. His zander fillet thrills with every bite. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44A, dyletanci.pl Fest Port Czerniakowski Bring out the clichés: at Fest quality rules over quantity. Food-wise, there’s not much to choose from, but it’s doubtful you’ll find better ribs for a few hundred miles.

Cooked outdoors on a beast of a smoker, these are glorious things of atavistic joy.

Improving the mood yet further is the backdrop, a timber cabin in a wooded part of Warsaw. There’s nowhere else like it.

(G6) ul. Zaruskiego 8 GarMasz Combining the functions of a store, butchery and, above all, a restaurant, GarMasz is the creation of Piotr Pielichowski, a cook best-known for his appearances on the Polish edition of Master Chef. A keen promoter of natural ingredients and fancy delicacies, his restaurant is stunning in every respect: three years in the making, even the interiors will blow you away.

Designed by Gdańsk-based architect Krystian Rassmus, details include oak finishes, 18th century tiling and swish chandeliers. Full report soon. (E4) ul.

Kopernika 5

Genesis What the hell is it? Seen as an amorphous blob composed of triangular white plates and large glass panels, Genesis restaurant is an instant head turner. the feeling is of stepping into your own futuristic space adventure. As for the menu, that’s been revamped by the new chef, former Top Chef contestant Paweł Kibart, and makes use of a Mibrasa charcoal oven – apparently the first in Poland. (A4) Pl. Europejski 5, fb.com/genesiswarsaw L’enfant Terrible Looking like he’s just swaggered in from a rock concert, the unconventional style of Michał Bryś goes beyond surface detail alone. Promising maximum excitement, his imaginative menu isn’t short on daring twists and rollercoaster highs.

Maverick in every sense of the word, this is a chef that pushes boundaries in a way few others would dare. Though the menu changes often, keep an eye on recurring classics such as ‘tomatoes, tomatoes, tomatoes’, a kickass course that presents the humble tomato in about ten different forms! (D8) ul. Sandomierska 13 (enter from Rejtana), tel. 22 119 5705, eterrible.pl Kieliszki Na Hożej Set on the corner of an ornate pre-war building, Kieliszki casts a warm, beckoning glow on the street outside – resisting its charms is entirely impossible. The cooking is just as seductive and sees

A MODERN BISTRO IN WARSAW'S MURANÓW Jana Pawła II 45a, lok. 38, Tel: 666 043 043 kromkibistro.pl fb.com/kromkibistro

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Polish mainstays such as dumplings, tartare and herring given a 21st century update. Superb wines, all of which are available by the glass, round out the experience. (D5) ul. Hoża 41, kieliszkinahozej.pl

Kromki Better known for kebab stores and booze outlets, this section of JPII does at times chuck up the occasional surprise: Kromki, for one. The menu is a Jack-of-all-trades, with pizza and burgers rubbing shoulders against pierogi, steak and sharing plates.

Yet despite the randomness of the choices and the curious location, there’s something here that really strikes the right note. Expect tastes that work inside a informal, casual space that’s fast taking off as a local secret. Al. Jana Pawła II 45A

La Brasserie Modern The interior of Didier Gomez whispers intimacy, yet it also embraces notions of space and light. The casual elegance that emanates from the design is accented by warm colors, low banquettes and glinting mirrors. The menu fits seamlessly with the surrounds: a fresh, modern look at French cuisine, but one that values clarity and simplicity. (D3) ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8332, sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com

Lente There’s a valid reason for the optimism swirling around Hoża, not least the launch of venues such as Lente. Revamping Mediterranean cuisine for the 21st century diner, this casual spot feels suitably bright and sunny. Featuring the talented Terry Price in the kitchen, food here shines a spotlight on tapas and sharing plates and has thus far met with widespread approval. Full report soon!

(D5) ul. Hoża 43/49

EAT! Listings

Loft Color, that’s what Loft has. It’s everywhere – from the design, which is all bubble shaped lights and splashy, bright cushions, to the drinks: extravagant cocktails that possibly glow in the dark. The menu is full of playful experimentation, something reflected by a seasonal menu that has, in the past, presented such choices as chicken with strawberries. (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 668 016 964, restauracjaloft.pl MOD Where odd couplings are concerned, MOD takes the biscuit: hip donut store by day, at night it morphs into a cool restaurant whose card veers between steaming bowls of ramen and inventive modern dishes that harness the chef’s classic French training (think: beef cheeks with gremolata, tahini mash, veal jus and caramelized sprouts). It’s crazy popular with creative types touting man buns and t-shirts that threaten: “I Shoot Hipsters”. (D6) ul. Oleandrów 8, fb.com/ MODOleandrow8 Mokolove A clear U-turn from the chef’s recent fine dining background (formerly the sous at Nolita, should you ask), there’s something welcoming and warm about this Mokotów venture. Already, you feel a familiarity in the air, not to mention a care and attention towards both produce and punters. The menu, meanwhile, speaks for the need of comfort with its offer of pizza, pastas and seasonal dishes such as pumpkin soup. But wait! The Insider was left disappointed on its latest visit in Jan. So say our notes: “mediocre service, empty restaurant and wrong order delivered!” (E9) ul. Różana 14, fb.com/ RestauracjaMokolove Mokotowska 69 Set inside a rotunda at the tail end of the street, it’s a place that exudes elegance and class. Most of all, however, it’s a restaurant to be enjoyed. Brought to you by the same team credited for Merliniego 5, Mokotowska’s appreciation of steak has been lifted from their elder sister. Yet the virtues of this restaurant extend beyond steak alone: the Insider enjoyed a volley

of greats – creamy breaded calf brains, sophisticated smoked eel, and Mazurian crayfish served in a deep, joyous sauce of rowan berry and brandy. (E5) ul.

Mokotowska 69, mokotowska69.com Momu Dominated by meat that’s cooked using the only smoker of its kind in Poland, the menu is comforting and strangely familiar: these are flavors reminiscent of campfire nights – brawny, smoky tastes with towering Reuben sandwiches, juicy steaks, bone marrow and wooden slabs brimming with meats from MOMU’s smokehouse. Impromptu art, tweeting birds and a neo-industrial design add oomph to the busy ambiance. (C2) ul.

Wierzbowa 11, tel. 506 100 001, momu.pl Opasły Tom The ground floor – all swanky lighting and navy blue seating – is often packed, so it’s downstairs you may head to an intimate space more reminiscent of the original location formerly found on Foksal: here, it’s about muted colors and reassuring shadow. Characterized by its balanced, nuanced flavors and thoughtful combinations, the first menu to debut at this relaunched restaurant sees a medley of dishes you demand to eat again: pumpkin and curd dumplings served in a cheese sauce being the prime example.

(D2) ul. Wierzbowa 9 Pink Lobster The door clatters shut to divulge a narrow space of tall palm fronds and marble finishes underneath soaring ceilings that seem to stretch on forever. Bursts of flamingo pink colors lend a dapper sense of dazzle to this polished-looking venue. Food is an upscale work that, in spite of the Lobster’s name, awards equal importance to land and sea. Beautifully plated, dishes that the Insider fell for inc. sea bass ceviche, an exquisite exhibition of complex tastes set down in a slash of green on a plate that could pass for a work of sculpture. Immaculate roe deer and a series of extravagant desserts also won praise. (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, pinklobster.pl Plato BEST WAWA 2017 “Neo Bistro” Conceived as a ‘smart casual’ restaurant, it’s a reasonably compact space with a warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings modern style and incandescent bulbs hanging from a complex cat’s cradle of interweaving wires: classy but nothing too flashy or flamboyant. Then there’s the menu, a strange work that sees Spanish influences brushing shoulders next to Polish and Asian. It sounds silly and preposterous but my God it works. December saw us wowed by beef tartar cut from Polish Hereford, an aromatic oriental broth, and a refined halibut encircled with sage pesto, redcurrants and fresh almonds. Stunning. ul. Klimczaka 1 (Royal Wilanow), restauracjaplato.pl

Try our special Valentines collection of macarons.

They are full of flavour and aphrodisiacs.

Al. Jana Pawła II 43/25 Francuska 48 Hala Koszyki tel. 509 912 282 www.melody.pl

Restauracja Warszawska Humongous in size, the vast spaces and lack of natural light never feel an issue.

Loaded with slick finishes and polished raw materials, find this subterranean venue unraveling amid the giant original foundations that support this pre-war skyscraper. Divided into ‘snacks’, ‘plates’, ‘sides’ and ‘desserts’, big shouts go for the golden schnitzel as well as the spicy pork dumplings served in a vibrant essence of paprika. It’s not a big menu, but it doesn’t need to be: exceptional in every respect, this restaurant has become one of foodie Warsaw’s biggest talking points. Upscale-casual has rarely felt this good. (D4) Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9 (Hotel Warszawa), warszawa. hotel.com.pl Rozbrat 20 This busy neo-bistro fuses upmarket, casual styling with an exciting wine list, interactive service and the kind of atmosphere you can’t get enough of. Under chef Bartosz Szymczak’s leadership, Rozbrat’s grown to become one of the blogospheres favorite write-ups. Never the same, if there’s a consistent thread to visits then it’s the playful inventiveness that has come to define Szymczak’s cooking. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 20, rozbrat20. com.pl Soul Kitchen Bistro If the previous venue was all slanted towards low-pitched business conversation then the new one is positively festive in comparison: scuffed brickwork, tall bar stools, a long communal table, etc.

The seasonal menu is a pick-and-mix of small-to-medium plates, including a halibut gravlax, whose delicate taste juxtaposes well against the rougher, earthier kick of the radish, and crayfish presented in a bird’s nest of green beans, fennel and leek. For mains, look for the braised beef. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 18A, soulkitchen.pl Stixx It’s easy to distrust a menu with such international diversity, but the kitchen crew really make it come together: the Indian section is particularly outstanding. Then there’s the design, a balance between slick corporate and sexy cosmopolitan: with the Warsaw Spire towering above it outside, it’s the kind of

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address to take any new arrival who still thinks of Poland as being backward. (A4) Pl. Europejski 4A, tel. 22 340 4040, stixx.pl Strefa If there’s a dining room in heaven, then it probably looks like Strefa – only marginally less white. Pure and pristine, the swan-like elegance of the interior whispers dignity and decorum.

Immaculate and refined, it’s a soothing atelier with a rarefied air. Mostly though, it’s the food that people talk about. Citing Nordic cuisine as his primary influence, the chef has honed a menu of note which, on our November visit, included a deep and soothing mushroom soup that brought to mind Poland’s dark autumn forest. The tastes are clear and true and say much for a chef that has his brain switched on. (C3) ul. Próżna 9, tel. 22 255 0850, restauracjastrefa.pl Supperlardo Run as a side project by Mąka i Woda (quite literally – it’s right next door), it’s a stylish-looking spot that’s fresh, contemporary and even a little edgy: for evidence, refer to a mural designed by Swansky, a local big gun on the street art scene. As for the menu, that’s a riotously meaty romp that involves wood-fired hams, sandwiches composed of pork belly pastrami and salt-cured meats from Puławska and Mangalica pigs. With orders taken at the counter, it’s a place that lifts the canteen concept to new, unseen heights. (D4) ul. Chmielna 13A, fb.com/ Supperlardo Warszawski Sznyt Warsaw’s historic center is rightly glorified for many reasons – its restaurants, however, are not one of them. In fact, there’s probably nowhere in the city with a higher concentration of sub-par efforts. Aiming to redress the balance are Sznyt, an ambitious venue with swank interiors overlooking the Royal Castle, and a kitchen staff headhunted from blue ribbon venues such as Salto and Amaro.

Set over two floors (one focused on Polish cuisine, the other on ‘international’), the pride of the house is afforded to the wood-fired grill. (D2) ul. Senatorska 2, warszawskisznyt.pl White One The changing face of Koszykowa street is

EAT! Listings almost embodied by White One – where once stood a disintegrating tenement stands a revamped building with a super swanky ground floor restaurant. Ideal for those nights you want to make an impression, interiors are well-spaced, smart and modern but never too intimidating. The pared-down menu is fully reflective of contemporary dining trends: innovations include a 5-course vegan tasting menu, as well as a 7-course menu entirely dependent on the whims of the chef – you won’t know what’s in store till it lands on the table! Full review soon.

(D6) ul. Koszykowa 47, whiteone.pl Winsky Winsky have made a blistering start to life with early points scored for their selection of edgy ‘tap wines’ and menu of small plates – though mainly Polish in spirit, there’s enough international twists and turns to keep things varied. The design, with its deep sofas and riverside views, feels refined and considered – the kind of place you’d impress a first date.

(F4) ul. Wioślarska 10

italian Altro Locale Set in a quiet section of Old Mokotów, it’s little wonder the plaudits haven’t ceased.

Owned by chef Andrea Carillo, authentic, homespun tastes vie for attention inside a charming space that’s chic and modern but never spartan. You can tell Carillo has invested his heart and soul in this venture, and the result is an ever-changing menu featuring lamb chops, sirloin, and sea bream done the Italian way – don’t think you’ll be getting any pizza here!

Fittingly, its reputation is now extending beyond the district’s natural border. (E8) ul. Willowa 9 Ave Pizza The argument over who serves Warsaw’s best pizza goes right to the wire, but there’s no doubting that Ave Pizza are up there on the leaderboard. Set across a sparse, metropolitan area, this fashionable L-shaped joint comes endorsed by the capital’s notoriously picky Italian community. Order the pillowy calzone and you’ll soon learn why. (E3) ul. Topiel 12, tel.

22 828 8507, avepizza.pl

Dziurka od Klucza An enchanting locale in which enigmatic, lavender-painted doors sit embedded into the walls, as if waiting to be magically opened by the mysterious keys that hang from the numerous interior details. Set with empty picture frames and cotton ball lights, interiors just don’t get any cuter. As for food, the concise, daily-changing menu is centered around homemade pasta – pride of place is given to the black colored pasta served with seafood. (E3) ul. Radna 13, tel. 500 150 494, dziurkaodklucza.com.pl Focaccia The big surprise at Focaccia is that there’s no Italian in the kitchen – it appears they don’t need one. Looking splendid in its crystal white colors, this dining room has plaudits aplenty for its selection of pizzas and more sophisticated mains: order the duck breast with marsala sauce for a failsafe choice. (D2) ul. Senatorska 13/15, tel. 22 829 6969, focaccia.pl Mąka i Woda Purists applaud an approach that uses a custom-made oven from Naples and imported ingredients such as 00 Caputo flour and DOP certified San Marzano tomatoes. Scrupulously authentic, it’s no wonder that it’s packed to the gunnels every night of the week – even their Facebook page warns of 20-minute waiting times for a table alone. (D4) ul.

Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 91 87 Otto Pompieri If you judge pizzerias on choice then Otto Pompieri’s modest count of eleven pizzas doesn’t promise much – but then it arrives. At zł. 21 for 42 centimeters, the margherita offers the best value per sq/cm than anything out here, while the artichoke pizza reveals itself in an orgy of melty virtue. The retro Little Italy look is rounded out by a cooking brigade that engage in banter and bravado while spinning dough in the air: it feels and tastes ideal. (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, fb.com/ otto.pompieri Posypane A casual restaurant with handmade pasta made fresh on the day and a choice that includes ravioli with chorizo and shrimp, bucatini Bolognese with seasoned beef and rosemary, and a creamy mushroom pappardelle. Then, adding to the sense of warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings being somewhere young, fun and a little bit hip, is an edgy design featuring a wall of kitchen implements, hanging ropes and exposed concrete. In an area already rife with niche eateries aimed at the modern day Varsovian, Posypane feels like a satisfying addition. (D5) ul. Hoża 43/49 Prosciutteria Powiśle Buzzing with warmth, here an interior composed of pre-war floor tiles, exposed brickwork, and black and white images of Italian icons sets a casually good mood that’s sustained by the owners. They’re knowledgeable, as well. If Prosciutteria feels good, then it tastes even better.

Based around cold cuts, find heavy wooden boards loaded with imported delicacies from small producers that the couple have befriended: Ubriaco cheese bathed in Prosecco; pork belly fat drycured for six months; salami from Milan and Naples… There’s more, of course, but it all becomes one in this orgy of pleasure.

(F4) ul. Solec 85 Tutti Santi With a kitchen team trained by champion pizzaiola Valerio Valle you’d be right to expect something a few steps beyond your standard high street pizza. Cooked in a woodfired Valoriani oven, the attention to detail is something else: sauce from Pelati tomatoes, Milano salami and Farina Le 5 Stagioni flour. (C3) ul. Królewska 18

japanese Arigator This Japanese-style noodle joint whisks you to the narrow, steamy back alleys of late night Tokyo. Clad in corrugated iron and dark, weathered wooden slats, it’s got that buzzing sense of chaos that feels familiar from the films. And the food, gosh, they get that right as well.

From a tiny menu order up dainty pork dumplings, braised kakuni bacon or deep-fried tofu before hitting up a feisty bowl of ramen emanating life-affirming goodness. A complex tangle of interlacing flavors, it’s the sort of dish you’d happily queue up for: and yes, people do. (D6) ul.

Piękna 54 Benihana Fire, flash, show and sizzle: the Benihana

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experience merges cooking with cabaret with diners sat ringside around teppanyaki grills. These cooking stations are the stage for the Benihana crew to demonstrate their riveting range of nifty knifework and daredevil antics. Outside of the realm of the grill, the sushi also strikes the right note. (C4) ul. Twarda 2/4, benihanapoland.com Fat Buddha Immense in size, there’s a confident feeling of decadent ostentation: with light kept at bay by vast mulberry-colored drapes, what would otherwise appear as an over-sized hall feels intimate and sensual, dark and delicious. Japanese in spirit, the menu pitches a refined selection of exceptional dishes – elaborate dragon rolls; delicate gyoza; and beef tataki that’s lightly seared and thinly sliced. It’s all perfect. (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 2/4 Mizu Rarely does a restaurant meet with such unanimous approval, and while the name of Mizu remains unknown among the majority, those In The Know have been crowing about it for a good couple of years. Irresistible, immaculate and imaginative, this is sushi the likes of which the capital has never seen before – there’s a magic here that makes the knees go wobbly. Touting a modern-minimal look, the off-center location in a former factory since requisitioned by ad agencies adds to the sensation of dining somewhere a little under-the-radar: to eat here is to visit one of Warsaw’s great whispered secrets. ul.

Duchnicka 3, mizusushi.pl

Sato Gotuje Signposted by its own splash of Mangastyle art adorning the exterior wall, this Commie era pavilion feels small and squashed and assembled on a budget.

Who cares? No-one. An exciting departure from the norm – no sushi here – the menu is a selection of bitey Japanese street food such as grilled mackerel fillet with shavings of grated radish. Prices and quality ensure you don’t stop until you’ve gobbled your way through much of the menu. ul. Pawińskiego 24 Shoku Most places that claim to serve fusion do so because of an identity crisis. At Shoku, though, the mix and match approach when it comes to Asia (if it’s tasty, stick it on the menu!) feels rational and put together. Never short of custom, locals gather inside a bright, contemporary space to slurp down bowls of ramen, share shoku bowls or click chopsticks over small plates of dim sum and wonton. Come summer, the scene ramps up a notch with diners flocking to a prim garden area that’s billiard green in color.

(A4) ul. Karolkowa 30, shoku.pl Tomo While many of Warsaw’s other sushi stops gather cobwebs Tomo packs out each night – that should say enough. With the maki, sushi and sashimi bobbing past on wooden platters, this place aims for fast, maximum turnover without ever making the diner feel second best. (D5) ul.

Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2344, tomo.pl

Mugi More and more Japanese ventures are proving there is life beyond sushi, and Mugi is one such place. Specializing in ramen noodles and kushiage skewers (battered meat and veg served on a stixk), further bonuses include Choya liqueurs and a fun design that’s not short on Manga graphics. (D5) ul. Wspólna 37/39

Uki Uki How much do the locals appreciate Warsaw’s original udon bar? Enough to queue outside the door? That’s right.

Dining is a close quarters experience here, but is done so without complaint: that electric pasta maker turns out noodles of such chewy goodness that everyone leaves beaming. (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, tel. 728 827 705, ukiuki.pl

Sakana Sushi & Sticks It’s not uncommon to hear the preparation of sushi described as a form of art, and in Sakana that’s exactly what it is.

Using premium ingredients and unusual combinations, their creations are a vivid blast of color and freshness. (D2) ul.

Moliera 4/6, tel. 22 826 59 58, sakana.pl

Wabu Sushi becomes a heaven’s gate spiritual experience in Wabu with the evening passing in a blur of beautiful compositions, of silky slithers of fish crowned with expert pinches of this, and little brush strokes of that. That’s all elevated even further by deliciously upscale interi-

EAT! Listings ors befitting of the Spire location. (A4) Pl. Europejski 2 (Warsaw Spire), wabu.pl

korean The Cool Cat Proving something other than just a faddish flash in the fire, The Cool Cat has caught the zeitgeist by the horns and come to represent the hip Powiśle style; casual and convivial and absent of aloofness, it’s a place in which all life seems to gather for a taste of good times.

Refusing to take themselves too seriously, the angle is fun and forward-thinking, something that’s evidenced by way of an occasionally wacky menu of Americanized Asian food: the K-Fries (a big messy mass of kimchi, chips, bulgogi beef) are spot on. (F4) ul. Solec 38, tel. 787 698 700 The Cool Cat TR A trendy venue that offsets all the concrete colors with flashes of contemporary art and waterfalls of greenery that tumble over the windows.

The overt hipness is reflected by a crowd that’s heavy on tattoos, piercings and odd urban style: you know you’re somewhere cool. Food, that’s a playful spin on Korean cuisine and includes chicken wings in hot gochochung sauce or more-ish soft-shell tacos with bulgogi sauce and water greens. Blips aren’t unknown, but the missteps tend to be forgiven: you can’t help but love what they’re trying to do.

(D6) ul. Marszałkowska 8 Koreanka A courtyard cubbyhole that’s scuffed, informal and fashionably ramshackle.

Such has been the stir created by it, diners arrive in the knowledge that they’ll be scavenging a table and eating what little might be leftover from another sell-out day. Yet here’s the point of contention: is it really all that’s cracked up? The kimchi is exemplary, but not everything works so well. Though raved about by Warsaw’s Instagrammers, we were left disenchanted by the shallow, empty tastes of the bulgogi. (D6) ul.

Koszykowa 59 KoreaTown Rest Here, the ubiquitous KFC (Korean fried chicken) is all crunch and crackle and the

bulgogi tender, juicy and the right side of sweet; accompanying them, an assortment of bitey dishes heaving with chilli flecked kimchi, daikon radish and pickled bits and bobs. All very good, but nothing compared to the bossam, braised pork belly scooped up by hand inside glistening perilla leaves: it’s a dish that soothes, gratifies and leaves diners looking every bit as pleased as the pipe-smoking tiger that gazes from the wall. (E9) ul. Olesińska 2, fb.com/KoreaTownRest Miss Kimchi Cheap and cheerful Korean street food served in a small, steamy space that’s frequently packed to the rafters. Box sets come piled high with meat, rice and veg.

The spotlight falls on the bibimbap, a satisfying mess of shredded veg, lively spices, a fried egg and beef bulgogi. This is replenishment in its truest form. (B4) ul. Żelazna 58/62, tel. 570 186 066 Powidoki Set in the cool white cube that is the Museum of Modern Art, you’d think that Powidoki’s riverfront location would make it a highly seasonal destination. Not so.

Though the menu’s brief and the background highly casual, the Korean choices feel more sophisticated and complex than anywhere else, a point that serves to keep business brisk. Served in a turmeric tomato sauce, the pork dumplings are an almost compulsory order. (E2) ul.

Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 22 Sora Maybe it’s not the best, but it’s certainly the best-known Korean restaurant in town. The tabletop BBQ sets are an essential order and ideal for the shared bonding experience. It all tastes even better with copious quantities of Makkoli wine. (A4) ul.

Wronia 45 Yache Korea Though primarily known as the capital of Warsaw’s craft beer scene, Nowogrodzka is beginning to demonstrate that she’s more than just a one-trick pony.

Helping the food angle is this newbie, a steamy little venue that’s all clatter and commotion. Design barely goes beyond a wall of potted plants, but with a place of this size all you need is four people and presto, you’ve got an atmosphere. On the food front, the crispy chicken embraces

UL. PRÓŻNA 10 TEL: 577 607 775 restauracjasanthai.pl warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings the seoul (ha!) like comfort food at its best, and the bulgogi the best we’ve had this year – not bad going seeing there’s not a Korean in the kitchen. (D5) ul.

Nowogrodzka 25

latin & spanish Casa Pablo “We give Spanish food a new twist,” declares chef Gonzalo de Salas, which explains why, in between pungent cheeses and acorn-fed Bellota ham, we find ourselves demolishing a variety of dishes that buck all notions of tradition: as a starter the beetroot-marinated salmon served with wasabi emulsion is a fine example of this. With de Salas performing balletic tricks in the kitchen, Casa Pablo presents a masterful menu that ripples with adventure. (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5A, tel.

22 324 5781, casapablo.pl

Ceviche Bar With chef Martin Gimenez Castro injecting his passion and personality into the venue, this is an address that punches through the greyness of everyday Warsaw. Ceviche – raw fish marinated in citrus juices and cilantro – is the default order, with the Atun one of the best sellers: chunks of tuna given a rich zing with the addition of chili, lime and roasted coriander. The Japanese influence on South America’s dining habits isn’t forgotten either, with must-haves including the the salmon tiraditos: served with teriyaki and sweet potato mash, it’s a joy of satisfying sensations: sweet, dreamy, spicy, creamy.

(C4) ul. Twarda 4, cevichebar.pl Tapas Gastrobar The popular practice is to order so many plates and bottles that the table becomes a Magic Eye of kaleidoscope patterns.

A great place for sharing and general interaction, the ambiance and quality belies the corporate anonymity of the location. Though the gazapcho is first class it’s bettered by the patatas bravos:

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fried potatoes in a ballsy tomato sauce.

(A4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 251 1310, tapasbar.pl Restaurante Bunuel Spanish-owned Bunuel has left many in raptures. Simple interiors focus attention on the food, which in this case involves a crisp gazpacho that gets you missing summer, and grilled meats that leave many in a swoon. (H4) ul. Walecznych 61, tel. 798 659 554, bunuel-restauracja.com

mexican Dos Tacos Who doesn’t like asking for something that’s ‘under the counter’. In the case of Dos Tacos, doing so means inquiring about their range of ‘salsa clandestinas’: extra hot sauces designed for reckless thrill-seekers. But the true secret weapon at Dos Tacos is Isabel Balderas, a Mexican chef that has mastered the bright, bold tastes of her native country.

This cuisine has enjoyed a breakout year in Warsaw, but while the millennials clamor over new food trucks and funky little start-ups, Dos Tacos is a timely reminder that the old guard sometimes know best. (D4) ul. Jasna 22, tel. 22 243 4618, dostacos.pl Gringo Bar A Mexican wave is upon us, and high time too. After years of suffering frozen ingredients, timid flavors and daft Mariachi music to persuade us it’s all authentic, a raft of new cut-price eateries are showing the rest how it’s done.

Cooked and folded by fist bumping lads in back-to-front caps and baggy t-shirts, the food at Gringo is fiery, fresh and full of zing. There are detractors who claim this is a Polonized version of this cuisine, but the informal Gringo remains one of the market leaders. (E9) ul. Odolańska 15, tel. 22 848 9523, gringobar.pl La Sirena You don’t even have to think twice when asked to name the best Mexican in the capital. Inspired by the ultra-violent films of Danny Trejo, the hardcore interior heaves with machetes, holy shrines, skulls and wire mesh; but if La Sirena looks fab, it tastes even better.

Introducing a new dimension to Warsaw’s parched Mexican landscape, highlights inc. poblano peppers stuffed with pork/ beef, peach, apple and apricots, as well as a ‘near death’ salsa that’s finally living up to its name. (D5) ul. Piękna 54 Rico Muranów needs all the restaurants it can get, so the opening of Rico is long overdue. Spread on two floors, it’s got a design you’d describe as ‘jolly’ with plenty of bright sunny colors and cartoonish murals of chilis and vihuelas: basic, bright but also confident and fun. The menu feels like a 90’s-style, ABC choice of standard Tex-Mex, but the burritos are delicious, the cocktails strong and the staff super-friendly. We like it! (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 61

middle eastern

Le Cedre With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoalgrilled lamb chops. (E1) Al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166, lecedre.pl

Le Cedre 84 Le Cedre just keep on getting it right.

Authenticity is key in this chainlette (well, there’s another across the river), as you’ll discover when talking to Tony, the Lebanese owner. To see the diversity of this cuisine, order the balbaak (six cold starters) or the byblos (six hot).

And food aside, it’s the atmosphere that carries them that extra yard: the whole philosophy of this cuisine is to share and share alike, making it a uniquely engaging experience when dining with friends.

(B3) Al. Solidarności 84, tel. 22 618 8999, lecedre.pl

EAT! Listings

Le Cedre Lounge Furnished in voluptuous Middle Eastern style, the latest subsidiary of the Le Cedre empire bursts with fancy sheesha pipes, extravagant rugs and shimmery satin drapes. It’s a look that’s fun, familiar, intimate and warm. Less encyclopedic than that of its two sister ventures, Le Cedre Lounge has a slimmer menu that introduces several new tastes to fans of Lebanese cuisine. Helplessly more-ish, it’s food that’s in line with the vibey atmosphere and casual air. (C4) ul.

Grzybowska 5A, lecedre.pl Maghreb Featuring the casual air of good times, head to Maghreb for vibrant Moroccan classics such as merguez sausages and tajine dishes served in traditional earthenware vessels. With the first chills of winter lapping at the door, it’s a restaurant that provides solace and reassurance. ul. Burakowska 9, maghreb.pl Shuk Located behind Hala Banacha in this gradually blooming district of Warsaw, SHUK’s certainly worth the tram ride if you’re not a native Ochotian. An offshoot of the acclaimed Mezze, highlights on our visit included a well-seasoned Arabic soup with lentils and spinach followed by a skillet of fried oyster mushrooms cooked with onions and served alongside harissa topped with rose petals. You’re looking at quite a special place that realigns your mojo on an ashen Warsaw day. ul. Grójecka 127

spread their wings to cover a new cuisine that, so far, has been under-represented in the Polish capital: Moroccan! Specializing in traditional recipes served in tagine clay pots inside a casual interior dolled up with jam jar lights and bright, light colors. (E3) ul. Oboźna 9

20% off Lunch (food only) from Monday to Friday at Le Cèdre Lounge & Le Cèdre 84

Tahina Small and lively, it’s a spot that brings together authentic Middle Eastern tastes with no quarter given: beef, for instance, is marinated for two days before being slow-cooked for 36-hours. Served in a featherlight lavash, there are those that would call this a kebab, but doing so would severely undersell the goodness in your hand. Demonstrating a fiendish attention to detail, Tahina is nothing if not characterized by its scrupulous specifics: look out for Iraqi-style scrambled eggs with dates, not to mention generous tahini bowls cascading with juicy chunks of chicken, and traditional coffee heated in a pan of sand. (C5) ul. Wilcza 26, fb.com/ TahinaWilcza

polish Bazyliszek Some parts of Bazyliszek hark to its years as a stately, stuffy restaurant. Now though it’s more earthy, with Jurassic portions of meaty, lardy food best consumed with one-liter beers. The Rynek location and festive atmosphere account for its popularity more than anything that comes from the kitchen. (D1) Rynek Starego Miasto 1/3, tel. 22 831 1841, bazyliszek.waw.pl

Sokotra Casting a warm, steamy glow over this corner of Wilcza, Sokotra is a welldesigned nook with a rough, urban edge: telegraph poles, bare bulbs and exposed lumps of concrete. Yemeni dishes are available though it’s the Indian food that shines – the Madras is intense, pungent and suitably fiery. (D5) ul. Wilcza 27, tel. 22 270 2766, sokotra.pl

Bar Gdański A refit has seen the plastic plants, putrid smells and that slow feeling of death replaced by a fresher look in keeping with the times. Despite this, the historic core of this milk bar has been retained including the daffodil colors and original floor tiles.

How’s the food? Cheap. That’s probably the kindest thing you can say about it. Despite that, Gdański feels like an essential part of the community. (B1) ul. Andersa 33, fb.com/ bargdanskimuranow

Tagine Having already scored considerable successes with Miss Kimchi and KoreaTown Rest, the same owners have

Belvedere Łazienki Królewskie Set in an imperial age glass orangery, it’s festooned with intricate latticework and botanical exotica. The updated

Le Cedre Lounge Grzybowska 5A Tel 22 299 7299

Le Cedre 61

(opposite the zoo) Al. Solidarności 61, Praga Tel 22 670 1166

Le Cedre 84

(opposite the court) Al. Solidarności 84 Tel 22 618 8999

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EAT! Listings interiors are the work of acclaimed set designer Boris Kudlicka, and lend a fresh, contemporary tone that goes hand in hand with the menu. But behind the gels and emulsions and pretty little swirls, this is cooking of substantial depth; it’s cooking that takes you to the very soul of Polish nature. (F8) ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. 22 558 6701, belvedere.com.pl Bez Gwiazdek BEST WAWA 2017 “Modern Polish” BEST WAWA 2017 “Chef” While Bez Gwiazdek rejects the core principles of fine dining, don’t for one minute expect anything less than food that whispers refined sophistication.

Focusing each month on a different region of the country, Robert Trzópek’s tasting menu takes diners to the very heart of the Polish soul and does so via tastes that betray his fine dining background: delicate and precise, it’s the polar opposite of the standard Polski feast. Just when you thought you had worked out the nation’s

cuisine, along comes Robert Trzópek to rewrite the rules. (E3) ul. Wiślana 8, bezgwiazdek.com.pl Bistro Pod Sowami Talk of Praga’s revival feels a bit more serious now that Bistro Pod Sowami has opened. From the outside, this corner tenement is a study in neo-gothic indulgence. On the inside, the muted elegance is perfectly partnered by cooking that sees traditional Polish given a modern reinvention. But will they survive the recent departure of chef Damian Wajda – we’ll be watching closely. (F1) ul.

Okrzei 26, fb.com/bistropodsowami Ćma by Mateusz Gessler Open round-the-clock, Ćma has rescued the city’s night owls from the evil clutches of the center’s grisly kebab dens. Set against an edgy, moth-themed interior designed by guerilla artist Tomasz Górnicki, this on-trend nightspot elevates late night dining to new heights

with a menu that involves modernized Polish delicacies such as sausage with horseradish emulsion, black pudding with apple and… goose stomachs. (D6) ul.

Koszykowa 63, mateuszgessler.com.pl Czerwony Wieprz An amusing restaurant that looks back at communism through a rose-tinted lens.

Under the glowering gaze of commie tyrants, staff dressed like obedient members of the party’s Youth League deliver hefty dishes from a cheeky menu that is in itself a collector’s item. (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 22 850 3144, czerwonywieprz.pl Delicja Polska Looking stately (pink bows, gilt touches and immaculate linen) but never stuffy, Delicja have a modern Polish menu that includes sous-vide salmon marinated in beetroot leaves, then topped with horseradish foam and dill emulsion. Brilliant.

But then so was everything else we tried, including the exquisite seasoned roast

Jana Moliera 4/6 22 826 5958 moliera@sakana.pl www. sakana.pl

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EAT! Listings beef. (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 64, tel. 22 826 4770, delicjapolska.pl Dom Polski Almost like it was designed for the manor born, Dom Polski has the rarefied atmosphere of a country retreat: bow-tied staff who click their heels, decorative antiques and a menu that’s a sumptuous anthology of posh Polish cooking. When you need to give visitors a sense of classic Warsaw, Dom Polski is the first out of the hat. (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 2432, restauracjadompolski.pl Dom Polski Belwederska Accessed via curling pathways and bursting shrubs this restaurant conjures images of an aristocrat’s manor. The air of privilege matches a menu that’s rich in fanciful classics such as their signature goose. Elegant and exquisite, consider it your default choice for a taste of true Poland. (F8) ul. Belwederska 18A, tel. 22 840 5060, restauracjadompolski.pl

Elixir by Dom Wódki There are some who call the food here 'deconstructed Polish'. In actuality, 'reconstructed' would be closer to the mark. The chef has taken local classics and redrafted the recipes with the swoosh of a contemporary pen. The outcome is a pleasure from start to finish: a life affirming żurek, a tartar that could fulfill ambassadorial duties for Poland, and a handsome beef tenderloin sprinkled with crispy potato shavings.

Thoughtful pairings with lesser-known, boutique vodkas add another dimension that serves to complete this pleasing, patriotic adventure. (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl Folk Gospoda If you missed the last train to Zakopane, then a night in Folk Gospoda is the next best thing. Kitted out like a typical tavern in the Tatras, it’s a good-humored celebration of mountain-slope traditions: heaps of meat and lard with plenty

of vodka and song in between. (B3) ul.

Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605, folkgospoda.pl Kieliszki na Próżnej You’ll find Kieliszki na Próżnej, the latest restaurant to mark the rehabilitation of Próżna, so named after the 1,116 wineglasses that hang tantalizingly over the bar. As an anchor feature the suspended glassware is arresting and equaled only by a long stretch of wall art doodled by Mariusz Tarkawian. The food matches up to the interiors, with a modern Polish menu that – on our visit – involved a thick, brilliantly spreadable foie gras pate, a thick slab of brawn and a delicate piece of moist Baltic cod. It’s pure seasonal comfort. (C3) ul. Próżna 12, tel. 501 764 674, kieliszkinaproznej.pl Klub Spatif Tip tap through the dark chambers into a bright dining room decorated with eggshell lights and vibrant greenery; from the photos on the walls, famous past guests

Flavours of Warsaw - traditional Polish cuisine with a distinctive modern touch. Everything is made from fresh seasonal ingredients.

Enjoy, among many others, beef tartare with lovage mayonnaise, white truffle powder and marinated wild mushrooms.

Or try our mouth watering Dumplings stuffed with veal and marinated squash in red lingonberry sauce.

Or perhaps you have a taste for duck breast with squash purée and a French potato in a dill emulsion. To finish off delight in our home made pastries.

Restaurant and Pastry 48 22 621 82 68 Żurawia str. 47/48 Warsaw Pastry and Cafe 48 608 046 406 Felińskiego str. 52 Warsaw www.smakiwarszawy.com

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Traditional Polish Cuisine,

Ĺťurek

(traditional sour rye soup)

Golonka

(roast pork knuckle)

Placki Ziemniaczane

(potato pancake with gulash)

We serve Polish dishes on hot pans and sizzling cast iron and are winners of many culinary competitions Hand making our own pierogi since 1913 Pierogi Truskawkowe Strawberry dumplings

but don’t miss the pierogi OUR LOCATIONS IN WARSAW U L . K R A KO W S K I E P R Z E D M I E Ś C I E 5 5 | T E L . 2 2 6 9 2 7 2 0 4 U L . N O W Y Ś W I AT 6 4 | T E L . 2 2 6 9 2 4 1 3 5 AL. JEROZOLIMSKIE 28 | TEL. 22 826 7484 U L . F R E TA 1 | T E L . 2 2 8 3 1 6 1 9 0 UL. ŚWIĘTOJAŃSKA 13 | TEL. 22 635 6109 U L . F R E TA 1 8 | T E L . 2 2 6 3 5 7 9 5 9

EAT! Listings smile down in approval. Though better known as a bar-club crossover, in daylight hours find a surprisingly brilliant menu featuring modern Polish tastes: tender piglet cheeks with curried sauerkraut, coconut milk and cilantro; marinated salmon with beetroot; and a vegan tartar made with tomatoes and black olives. It is, quite simply, a glorious hymn to natural tastes. (E5) Al. Ujazdowskie 45, klubspatif.pl LAS This rail-side communist pavilion has been transformed courtesy of a thorough makeover featuring a jungle of plants, low, muted lighting and the addition of smart charcoal colors and revamped retro fittings. As for food, then familiarize yourself with Anna Klajmon. Having made her bones at Grunt i Woda, her farm-to-fork philosophy has followed her here. Cooking with an air of freedom, there’s a natural goodness to her menu that belies the modest pricing. Highly seasonal, on our visit that meant gorgeous oxtail pierogi with peanut butter and hazelnut sauce.

Don’t mix the ‘local cocktails’, either. (F4) ul. Solec 44, fb.com/las.warszawa Polana Smaków Looking warm and woodsy, this super restaurant has lost none of its appeal since making its Christmas move from Mokotów to the center. Emerging to become a major figure on the national restaurant scene thanks to their skilled

interpretation of seasonal tastes and regional produce, expect full satisfaction from a menu that presents rejigged versions of Polish heroes such as herring or dumplings. For full review see p. 35.

(C5) ul. E. Plater 14, polanasmakow.pl Podwale Piwna Kompania Prowling mountain bands generate a beer hall atmosphere, while the courtyard garden – designed to replicate a Mitteleuropa square – is one of the best you’ll find. But the obscene portions can’t mask what is pretty poor food. Go there for the experience, if nothing else. (D2) ul.

Podwale 25, tel. 22 635 6314, podwale25.pl Prasowy Delicate diners turn their back on milk bars, yet this canteen-style phenomenon, with its history rooted in communism, has enjoyed a remarkable renaissance and a freshly found popularity with a new generation. Sure, the food is an acquired taste and best described using words like ‘basic’, ‘bland’ and ‘honest’, but Prasowy gets our vote for a cool design that’s seen the 1954 interiors sensitively updated.

(E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16 Restauracja Polska “Różana” The rarified atmosphere of Różana is a pleasure indeed. Close to the frontline of Mokotów / Śródmieście, you’d never guess the proximity of the center. Seated in their garden, one feels removed from

the city – a fountain burbles quietly in the background, starlings hop around the trees. From the inside, one hears the distant tinkle of the house pianist. Just being here is a thrill in itself, and the food is a Polish dining extravaganza served from the top table: farmhouse duck, saddle of venison, etc. (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 22 848 1225, restauracjarozana.com.pl Schabowy Red gingham tablecloths are just about the only decorative element in this plain Jane restaurant; aesthetics don’t figure highly, and that much is clear through an approach to plating presentation that’s best described as basic. But boy, they can cook – simple but delicious, the food here is Polish home cooking at its best: great ingredients used to even greater effect.

As the name suggests, schabowy is the star, and here you’ll find it served in three different forms. ul. Obrzeżna 1, fb.com/ schabowy.warszawa Stary Dom A classic restaurant in style and history: back in the day it was a favorite haunt of jockeys and race goers from the horse track nearby. Pre-war recipes form the basis of the menu, with the team using seasonal produce and the latest technology to bring out its best. ul. Puławska 104/106, tel. 22 646 4208, restauracjastarydom.pl Stolica Set in one of Old Town’s smaller, lesser-known squares, Stolica charms with its pre-war, slightly formal ambiance: pristine white tablecloths and spotless mirrors combine with classic Warsaw tunes to generate a storybook atmosphere straight from the pages of Tuwim and Gombrowicz. Food-wise, you’re looking at typically local dishes such as venison marinated in bison grass vodka. (D1) ul. Szeroki Dunaj 1/3, restauracjastolica.com Talerzyki It sounds a little absurd, but Talerzyki manage the implausible by Polonizing the concept of tapas and coming up trumps. Fiercely Polish in spirit, the menu looks to revive the essence of inter-war Warsaw with its selection of classic recipes presented in scaled-down form: blood pudding with apple and cinnamon;

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EAT! Listings beef tongue and horseradish; and white sausage with fermented flour sauce. It sounds glum and gory but its anything but – and the style mavens of Mokotowska appear to agree. (D6) ul. Mokotowska 33/35 U Fukiera New arrivals looking to get a grasp of local cuisine have many options in varying price brackets. U Fukiera is definitely in the big spend category, but visitors come away with a common sense of wonderment. That’s largely due to enchanting interiors that have guests exploring twinkling chambers that unravel like a fairytale. Set in a 500-year-old townhouse, the beautiful backdrop is accompanied by a grand menu of duck, venison, veal and lamb. (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 27 (Old Town Market Square), tel. 22 831 1013, ufukiera.pl U Szwejka Named after the fictional Czech soldier Szwejk, the food here would certainly appeal to the tubby man himself. Served in an interior bestowed with Prague street signs, the food is a hardy, meaty affair, and arrives in XXXL portions. The price to quantity ratio guarantees queues (yes, queues) that stretch out on the street every weekend – but you have to wonder why. (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1710, uszwejka.pl Warszawski Sen By Mateusz Gessler A quite stunning restaurant dominated by dark geometric patterns and the installations and ideas of guerilla artist Tomasz Górnicki. Once you’ve caught your breath and snapped off a few pics for your Instagram, settle in for a menu that gives Polish ingredients a highly contemporary treatment. If you thought Hala Koszyki was buzzing, then this edgy space is perhaps its biggest buzz of all. ul.

Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki), mateuszgessler.com.pl Wuwu A vodka bar next to a vodka museum inside a former vodka factory… yep, at Wuwu you can’t escape the facts: vodka is everywhere. Wuwu’s reputation for peerless cocktails (based on you know what) and late hours (closing time: never) has grown exponentially over the months, but so too has its standing in the food chain thanks to a local-centric menu that

reintroduces the public to the forgotten tastes of inter-war Warsaw: duck tongues with grapes and hazelnuts; a signature tartar lashed with homemade fermentations; not to mention blood sausage with pickled apples and a deep bread sauce.

Pl. Konesera 1 (Centrum Praskie Koneser), wuwu.bar

Zapiecek Seven Warsaw locales, with our favorite found in the vaulted passages of Świętojańska. The menu is highly traditional, with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’. It’s for the pierogi though for which they’re famous; find approx. fifty types delivered by servers dressed like saucy country maids. Locations inc. ul.

Nowy Świat 64, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska 13, tel. 22 635 61 09, & ul. Wańkowicza 1, zapiecek.eu Zielony Niedźwiedź A sanctuary of elegant fancy, it’s a place of long, dark shadows and discreet decorative touches: From the outset, you’re made to feel that good things will happen, and this they do. Certified by Poland’s fledgling slow food movement, the menu gives star billing to the suppliers that keep the pantry full; but the truth is these aren’t the only heroes. Taking the reins in June, new chef Oliwia Bernady has grown in stature and skill preparing a daily tinkered menu that opens your eyes to the real tastes of Poland. (E4) ul. Smolna 4, tel. 795 794 784, kafezn.pl

‘Simplicity, elegance and atmosphere’

Cafe • Wine Bar • Restaurant • Whisky Bar • Wine Cellar ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 515 037 001 www.hoza.warszawa.pl www.facebook.com/hoza25 Open 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-21:00

Zoni Housed in a former vodka distillery, the immense interior reveals cast iron kilns, flooring made from recovered vodka barrels and numerous post-industrial pieces that have been lovingly restored. But the real talking point in Aleksander Baron, a chef nationally known for his devotion to local ingredients and little-known techniques. We loved the tomato assiette, not to mention a T-bone heavier than an artillery round. Aged in such a way as to allow aspergillus mushrooms to grow into the meat, it’s a glorious piece of cooking that makes the heart roar. And dessert?

A chilled sphere of calf brain mousse the incorporates vanilla, brown butter and caramel. So far, there’s been no better warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings launch this year. (G1) Pl. Konesera 1, muzeumpolskiejwodki.pl

scandinavian Nabo The décor is, we’re told, typical Danish cafe – bold open windows, simple lines, high shelves filled with books and games on the table. But what is Danish food? There’s Old Danish on the menu: meatballs and open face sandwiches with meat and fish in various textural configurations and then there’s New Danish: an emerging trend towards fresh, seasonal food with locally sourced and innovatively concocted ingredients. ul. Zakręt 8, tel. 22 842 0256, nabocafe.pl

seafood

L’Arc French in style, seafood dominates the menu of L’Arc with the lobster and oysters a particular standout. Enjoy it inside a classic interior that feels assuredly upscale. (E8) ul. Puławska 16, larc.pl

Lokal na Rybę Open just three days a week, the limited hours have created a supply / demand situation which sees this basic-looking venue often packed out. The menu is revised on a weekly basis though never really goes beyond three starters and a couple of mains – but that’s all they need to captivate the public. In recent times, octopus goulash and smoked herring pierogi have played distinctive roles. (D9) ul. Kwiatowa 1/3/4, fb.com/lokalnarybe U Rysia Devoid of frills bar a glowing neon sign and a brooding mural of Jesus, it looks like a Polish fish restaurant should – basic but with an undercurrent of bustle that keeps the mood bright. It tastes like the real thing as well. Sourcing their catch from the freshwater lakes of northern Poland, the offer is divided into fish that have been smoked, steamed, fried or baked. Check out the perch ‘chips’ fried in batter. (C4) ul. Marszałkowska 140 (enter from ul. Rysia), urysia.com.pl

specialty food shops Bazar Olkuska Once a sad little side street, Olkuska has evolved to become just about the worst

kept secret in Warsaw. Home to the city’s top eco-market, trips here end with shopping bags filled with French cheeses, Italian hams, Hungarian sausages and fresh fruit and veg. (E10) ul. Olkuska 12 BioBazar With its previous home in Wola undergoing a substantial redevelopment, the BioBazar has moved to Mokotów. At the forefront of Poland’s food revolution, it’s a place that shines a light on ecologically certified goods and produce. Fresh fish, cheese, eggs, bread, cured sausages, honey... on it goes. Comprehensive in its pitch, everything you need to pursue a bright, happy life is here on this spot. ul.

Wołoska 3, biobazar.com.pl (B4) ul. Żelazna 51/53, biobazar.org.pl Forteca Kregliccy Spot the stars of Warsaw’s restaurant scene perusing the stalls at this weekly farmers’ market. Held each Wednesday, look for Pan Ziółko, Poland’s first celebrity farmer (!), Portobello’s from the country’s only organic mushroom farm and the magical yogurts from Mleczna Droga Manufaktura Serów. ul. Zakroczymska 12, kregliccy.eu/forteca Kram A supermarket worth your time. Putting small scale producers to the fore, find veggies courtesy of the Majlert farm and grocer Pan Ziołko, daily deliveries from the Mąka i Woda bakery, dairy courtesy of Mleczna Droga, and several cult Polish brands such as Concept Stu Mostów. Craft beers, bio wines, and softs from the likes of Fentimans and Galvanina complete the quite extraordinary lineup. ul. Duchnicka 3, facebook.com/kram.nativeingredients

steak houses

Beef n’ Pepper Beef N’ Pepper presents itself in a buzzy urban flash of violet blue lighting, slick banquette seating and open kitchen action. Straight away, you get the feeling of being in a place that’s alive and active, a feeling that’s affirmed by a busy backlit bar from behind which blackshirted staff fling sunny cocktails for the

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EAT! Listings after-work crowd. Of course, it’s the food angle that takes precedence, and at Beef N’ Pepper that translates to a decent choice of surf’n’turf. Highlights include thumping T-bones and a 60-day aged Argentinean top loin. (C5) ul. Nowogrodzka 47A, tel. 785 025 025, beefandpepper.pl Butchery & Wine The Sarf London-born Bertha oven has revolutionized the way steak is cooked, retaining moisture in a way no-one thought possible. Expect robust pieces of animal full of big, brawny tastes, but there’s so much more than just meat: starters involve a sea bass ceviche that pings with citrusy flavor not to mention more-ish pork crackling that pop like fire bangers in the mouth. A place of energy and ambition, it’s a great mix of both new and classic. Bookings advised. (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 502 3118, butcheryandwine.pl Ed Red Warszawa You can tell they’re serious about their meat just by looking at the starters: big, juicy marrow bones, mountain oysters, blood sausage and calf’s brain. The steaks are the calling card though, and here you’ll find them dry aged and consumed with the aid of hunting knives. The desserts seem a lumpy afterthought, but they get enough right elsewhere (even decent craft beer at the bar) to keep that little more than a mild annoyance. (B3) Pl. Mirowski 1, edred.pl Hoża Wine and steak: it sounds simple, but Hoża have taken two simple pleasures to another level. It’s an ebullient space with service right out of charm school, and a kitchen team with a real knowledge of cows. A red-blooded affair, the menu is a steak sensation and well paired with a handpicked wine list. (D5) ul. Hoża 25A, tel.

603 778 275, hoza.warszawa.pl Merliniego A classic looking steakhouse that swirls in shadow, brickwork and elegant touches, it’s a place to immerse yourself in an atmosphere that’s all surreptitious conversation and distant clinking glasses.

The steaks are out-of-this world, with USDA prime beef from New York’s legendary Ottomanelli & Sons and Scottish beef from London’s Smithfield Market.

On our last visit we splurged on the Grade 9+ wagyu ‘kobe’ rib-eye and found ourselves eating the steak of a lifetime.

Simply amazing. (E10) ul. Merlineiego 5, merliniego.pl Żebra i Kości More than just steak, head to this smart newbie for Flintstone portions of ribs that thwack down on the table like heavy rounds of artillery. Satisfying all your primal desires, choices run from steamy duck broth to dry-aged tomahawk steaks that’ll take an hour to finish. The beef wellington is a must. High end and upmarket, expect big things to come – full review soon. (D5) ul. Poznańska 38, zebraikosci.pl

thai Basil & Lime Reports have been hit and miss, with one Insider noting calamitous service and food that was both over and undercooked. Not on our visit, though. Short and to the point, the menu is defined by its clarity, and we enjoyed a phenomenal yellow curry and banana fritters with the right combo of crunch and goo. Beautifully decorated with charcoal colors and punches of lime, the Insider felt good long after visiting. Will you? (E8) ul. Puławska 27, tel. 22 126 1943, basil-lime.pl

MODERN TAKE ON JAPANESE CUISINE

San Thai Informal, airy surrounds; fair price points; and a menu that covers enough bases while never becoming overwhelming.

Surprisingly great cocktails add to the impression that this street is taking off as something of a scene. (C3) ul. Próżna 10, restauracjasanthai.pl Thai Thai A visual feast of ink black colors and shimmering deities this is by far the most formal of Warsaw’s Thai options – and also the best. Peaks include a grilled beef salad full of citrusy twists, lively flavors and vibrant colors, and sundried pork neck that’s all manly crunch and nose-clearing sauce. And then there’s the tuna tartar, a dish zinging with fresh hits of coriander, mint, lime and chili. There’s

OPEN EVERY DAY 12:00-23:00 GROUND FLOOR WARSAW SPIRE, PLAC EUROPEJSKI 2 +48 668 925 959 WABU@WABU.PL | WWW.WABU.PL WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/WABUSUSHI

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EAT! Listings no point in complimenting the chef, he’s heard it all before. (C2) Pl. Teatralny 3, tel.

601 818 283, thaithai.pl Thaisty The most successful business model pioneered in recent years? That’s the work of Thaisty, a bright, cheerful spot with a ‘street style’ and moderate prices – queues, at times, stretch out the door.

Vivid colors and a busy open kitchen lend the place a happy buzz that lasts through the day, yet despite this many have voiced concerns that Thaisty’s runaway success has come at a cost to the overall quality.

Even so, the BBQ skewers remain a good order. (C2) Pl. Bankowy 4, tel. 730 000 024, thaisty.pl

ukrainian Kanapa This swish villa is a thoughtful essay in understated elegance: antique and classy, yet with enough eclectic touches to that add that little sense of home. The food fits the backdrop with cooking that feels adventurous in style yet traditional in its taste. The borscht, presented in a huge, hollowed out cabbage, incorporates cooked beetroot, stewed pears and plums, chunks of meat and a wallop of sour cream – these rich and raucous flavors are offset by highly sophisticated alternatives such as blobs of pike caviar and oyster cream on a delicate, crispy fish skin. (E8) ul. Narbutta 10, fb.com/kanapa. restauracja Rest.Baczewskich A grander opening there has not been this year. Inspired by the cuisine of Old Poland and pre-war Lviv, dishes include Galicianstyle herring and beef cooked in pork fat and served with white porridge and fried cabbage – as classic as they sound, presentation is pure 21st century and fitting of the luxurious surroundings of this one-time palace. Full review coming soon.

(E7) Al. Szucha 17/19, baczewskich.rest

vegan Falla Both pricing and location combine to

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keep this venue blocked solid with a muddled mass of students from the uni nearby. Looking simple, maybe even spartan, crowds flock to this corner unit for recipes inspired by the Middle East and Asia: huge wraps tightly packed with pungent kimchi; generous pans brimming with shakshouka; and an array of hummus in unfamiliar forms – chipotle, coriander, carrot and more. (E3) ul. Oboźna 9, fb.com/falla.wawa Kuchnia Konfliktu First came a food truck, then a cargo container. Now, Kuchnia Konfliktu have a legit address they can finally call home.

First founded to provide work for refugees fleeing conflict zones, this social project has won acclaim not just for social initiative, but more importantly its food. With employees hailing from the likes of Iran, Afghanistan, Chechnya and Iraq, prepare to dive deep into the exotic. Full review next issue. (D5) ul. Wilcza 60

Leonardo Verde Geometric patterns, plant arrangements and the large format illustrative artwork of Dominique A. Faryno decorate Leonardo Verde, an upmarket – but inexpensive – Italian joint. Pizza is the forte – order the ‘hot romantic’, a combo featuring chili, avocado and tabasco. (D5) ul. Poznańska 13, fb.com/leonardo.verde. restaurant Lokal Vegan Bistro Aside from a small menu consisting of more standard vegan offers, Lokal keep Homer Simpson characters in mind with regular guest slots for street food that’s given a full vegan makeover. Offhand, that’s meant vegan kebabs, cheesesteaks, burgers and zapiekanka, all of which have been pretty damn good. (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, 517 615 122 Tel Aviv “People shouldn’t be excluded from high standards just because they’ve chosen the vegan path,” says Malka Kafka, the owner of Tel Aviv. As such, find a plantbased menu that gives the tastes of Israel a fancy schmancy style – so fancy that Depeche Mode ate here last summer! (D5) ul. Poznanska 11, restauracjatelaviv.pl

Vegan Ramen Shop Co-joining two fads is always a risky business – just ask Loco Mexicana. All of a sudden, the focus doesn’t fall on just getting one thing right, but two. But despite this double-headed challenge Vegan Ramen have struck gold on account of their complex bowls of restorative goodness: their fan base extends way beyond the boundaries of Saska Kępa. Enjoy in a cool interior filled with cute Japanese props on dozens of ‘levitating shelves’.

(G3) ul. Finlandzka 12A Youmiko Vegan Sushi Exceptional in every respect, Youmiko’s tasting menu is one of the undisputed highlights of what’s become known as the vegan square mile. “Our aim,” declares their manifesto, “is to mix traditional Japanese approaches with Polish creativity and surprise you with new textures and flavors.” Mission accomplished. (D5) ul. Hoża 62, youmiko.vg

vietnamese La Vietnamita A long, lantern-lit interior houses La Vietnamita, hands down the best Vietnamese stop to ever launch in Warsaw. Impossibly, the fried duck in passion fruit sauce is even better than it sounds. Full review soon. (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 52/54 Vietnamka BEST WAWA 2017 “Casual Dining” Divey but lively, diners step down into Vietnamka to find a shouty little lair of mint green walls and wobbly wooden tables. Infused with a gentle sense of chaos (drinks after mains, mains before starters), there’s a certain charm at work that feels authentic and convincing. As for the food, you suspect that’ll be ’nam good when TV chef Kurt Scheller wonders in for a take-out. D5) ul. Poznańska 7, fb.com/ VietnamkaPoznanska Viet Street Food Bistro Widely looked upon as the source of some of the best Vietnamese chow this city’s ever seen, the small menu contains steaming bowls of pho and banh mi baguettes loaded with meat and greens: both are brill. (H4) ul. Królowej Aldony 5/2, fb.com/vietstreetfoodpl

EAT! Listings

DRINK!

PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

SPILL THE BEANS

Universally hailed as home to the city’s best flat white, Czytelnia’s drive for quality is mirrored by their habitual acquisition of the latest equipment and fiendish desire to showcase the latest trends and developments in the world of specialty coffee. But there is more. Good things are happening in Bielany and this husband and wife operation feels like the best of them all. Warm in ambiance and appearance, reading matter is plentiful, so too are cakes of pure sin. Dressed in light woods and brickwork, it’s a place that exudes positive vibes and a sense of chill. Distant it might be, but there are those that travel the city in order to visit – if you take coffee seriously, then you should as well.

Czytelnia Al. Zjednoczenia 46, fb.com/cafeczytelnia

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AN URBAN LEGEND

W

eathered and wilted it might have been, but news of Amatorska’s ‘closure’ in February was met with widespread sadness across the city. First opened after the war, the following decades saw it cemented into legend on account of more than its longevity alone. Offering a special glimpse into the past, it was here young and old alike would gather to partake in heated discussions and drunken song.

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PHOTOGRAPHS ED WIGHT

A city institution bolts the door on its spiritual home…

AMATORSKA ul. Nowy Świat 21

Unique for the sheer disparity of its clientele, it attracted all walks of life: from flouncy theater types and old school hacks to working class heroes with vodka in mind. A hub of whispered dissent and conspiratorial rumors, it was in places like Amatorska, claimed the award-winning British journalist Ed Vulliamy, that the seeds of Poland’s revolution were born in the early 1980s.

Frequently immortalized in literature and verse, Amatorska most famously appeared in Janusz Głowacki’s Dzień Słodkiej Śmierci, a crime story published as part of the long-running Ewa Wzywa 07 series. In it, the principal suspect sips his coffee whilst contemplating the other customers in the mirror, wondering which one it is that is tailing him.

These mirrors – long distorted by time – survived the years, forming a fundamental element of Amatorska’s quirky décor. Looking stained and ragged from years of spillage and smoke, it’s said the latter would grow so thick and soupy that it would often be a struggle to see across the bar. Symbolic of an era, Amatorska was resistant to

fads and fashions, a stubbornly proud remnant of a vanishing past. A place of strong, inky coffee and somber plastic plants, of wipe-clean surfaces and curious kitsch, it was a fascinating bridge into a world long forgotten.

News, therefore, that it was to be shut down landed like a bombshell.

With the tenement housing Amatorska festering in a state of chronic disrepair, local councilors have finally moved to relocate the tenants and begin a much needed renovation. In Amatorska’s case, that’s meant now switching across the road to Foksal 17. Whether they will return to their former stamping ground as promised, or whether it’s part of a devious city ploy to make a quick buck and exploit Nowy Świat’s potential, one thing seems certain: Amatorska will never be the same.

“

These mirrors –

long distorted by time – survived the years, forming a fundamental element of Amatorska’s quirky décor

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drink! Listings bars & pubs The Alchemist A small place with a big bag of tricks: upscale pub grub from Brit chef Ed Shellard, fancy cocktails, and a self-serve wall of beer from a choice of global brewers.

Poland’s still getting used to the idea of ‘a pint after work’, but in The Alchemist the idea of a post-office drink just seems so right. (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 3, thealchemist.pl Bar Pacyfik From Day 1 there was something that felt special about this place, and that feeling has only swelled with the progress of time. With a retro-kitsch interior delivered straight from the age of Scarface (candy floss pink, ocean blue), it’s a bar that’s dark and divey, raw and real. More than just a spot for the cool kids, there’s an inclusive atmosphere that feels positively international. As for drinks, the habanero / salsa infused Bloody Maria is a lifeaffirming gargle that sweeps through the body like an electric current – three sips and you feel like Superman. (C5) ul. Hoża 61 Bar Studio The ascetic, modern décor is intentional – both not to compete with the fine adornment of the original walls and to break through the building’s grandiose airs. It’s hard not to be overawed by the sheer gigantism of the Palace of Culture that looms above. It seamlessly slips from café during the day into its more culturally active persona in the evenings, with concerts, film screenings, plays and political discussions. (C4) Pl. Defilad 1, barstudio.pl Beirut They’ve smashed a wall through though that’s still not enough to accommodate the crowd. Adorned with detritus inspired by the Lebanese conflict (ammox boxes, sandbags and… a bomb), by day find media types posturing by their Macs. At night, the air of cool dissolves into a wild, happy whirl of international voices. (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, beirut.com.pl

Bohemia You have to credit them for trying something different, but by going for a slick, corpo style Bohemia have completely missed ‘the essence of Czechia’. Filled

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with smooth wood and gleaming glass, it feels more boardroom than beer hall (actually, make that bored room). What goes right? The beer. Poured from a ‘tank’ system designed to maintain your beer’s freshness, it’s every bit as good as drinking straight from the tit of Pilsner’s own brew master. (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, bohemiarestaurant.pl

Central Bar The beer (supplied by Bierhalle) is fine, the cocktails are getting better, and the atmosphere is cranked to max: you get the buzzy sense that you’re in the middle of something that’s captured Warsaw’s imagination – the natural focal point of Hala Koszyki, the ever-stretching Central Bar was one of the biggest hits of 2017.

(D6) ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki)

Ceska With its fake brickwork and shameless proliferation of Pilsner paraphernalia, the general feeling is that Ceska feels forced and phony – looking like it was fitted out to a rigid company blueprint, it’s more like the kind of theme pub you’d find off Leicester Square. Service, meanwhile, can be surly, forgetful and occasionally plain hostile. The ‘tank’ pouring system is a considerable plus: try the ‘mliko’, a full pint of creamy foam that can be sunk in a swig. (D4) ul. Chmielna 35, ceska.pl Chłodna 25 After several closures, noise clampdowns and a change in management you’d imagine C25 to be a mere shadow of what it once was. But after a slow start the new management have rescued this listing vessel and returned it to it best. On the ground floor it’s a place of creaking floorboards and retro armchairs, while the basement gets opened for experimental music nights and improvised orchestras.

(B3) ul. Chłodna 25, klubchlodna25.pl

Elephant Belgian Pub Signposted by a jolly, dancing elephant, this Belgian pub presents its cause the moment you enter – there’s twenty or so taps laid right out in front, and to the left a fridge that’s expected to top out to cover 200 beers. The design is basic – brickwork, beer kegs and varying ephemera of the brewing trade – but it doesn’t need that much more: it’s about the beer, after all. (C1) ul. Freta 19

Gram Head up the stairs from Warmut (see Cocktails) to uncover Gram, a small room designed to evoke the feeling of stepping inside a circus tent. Set with arcade games (Pac-Man! Space Invaders!!), it’s a super fun space with a fridge of craft beers and quirky little details: look up and you’ll find monkey figures parachuting from the ceiling! You are, in effect, inside a playground for adults. (D6) ul.

Marszałkowska 45/49

Grizzly Gin Bar More prone than ever to global trends, news that the international gin revival has hit Warsaw comes as no real bombshell.

The style in Grizzly is dark and hip with the design largely limited to moody lighting, some witty murals and a bank of outdated TV sets given an artistic twist; the smoking room is great for accidental meetings with curious characters while the occasional gigs really pack a punch – it’s fast becoming the latest and loudest night in the area. (D5) ul. Wilcza 46 Koko & Roy Already appearing in our Restaurant section, a growing reputation for long, merry nights is enough to earn Koko & Roy a second listing in the mag. Drink carefully composed cocktails and craft beers from the epic Stu Mostow brewery in an American-run resto-bar that’s starting to attract the full gamut of expat nationalities. An upmarket but quirky décor (Princess Leah on the wall, Antony Bourdain in the toilet) is matched by a maverick playlist, spontaneous atmosphere and open hours that have a habit of becoming seriously flexible when the weekend arrives. (D5) ul. Wilcza 43 Kosmos – Inne Beczki Craft beer, pizza, late nights and DJs! In a nutshell, that’s Kosmos. Attracting the kind of crowd you’d anticipate (trend aware 20/30-somethings), it’s the kind of place where a dull time is rare. (D5) ul. Poznanska 24

Kraken Rum Bar Named after one of the ocean’s most feared mythical creatures (the scary squid from Pirates of the Caribbean), the woodclad Kraken features a wall of cymbals, heavy furniture and some interesting photography. While there’s some decent

Drink! Listings

drink! Listings bottles of rum, there’s perhaps not enough to justify calling it a rum bar. The place rocks though. (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, fb.com/KrakenRumBar

Legends Over the years Legends has earned a legendary status amongst the expats and Anglophiles. Their cause is helped by touches such as a proper darts board, Sky Sports and a traditional menu that’s as authentically English as the Downing Street cat. Presiding over it all is Graham, a seasoned expat and Everton nut. (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, legendsbar.pl

Między Nami With 18 years of service under their belt you may think of Między Nami as being an antiquated has-been. Not so.

Haunted by a mix of media types and local characters, this hip white piece of post-commie Warsaw has an enduring, almost timeless appeal. (D4) ul. Bracka 20, miedzynamicafe.com

Miejsce Chwila Surviving the move from their former digs is the giant mural of a weatherworn babcia, and it’s under her watery gaze that drinkers congregate to make the most of a decent fridge generously stocked with specialty beers from Poland’s more leftfield producers. Also successfully enduring the challenges of their cross-city move is the underlying spirit that made them so famous.

Defiantly arty in its character, the creative mood that prevails manifests itself in a quirky design that involves retro accents, refurbed armchairs, a neon of Lennon and the compelling illustrations of Izabela Wójtowicz. (D5) ul. Żurawia 47 Paradox Billing themselves as a ‘sci-fi / gamers / role play asylum’ this is a cradle of geeks, nerds and people who collect serial killer memorabilia. Decorated with plastic black crows, a map of Mordor and figurines of goblins, watch as oddly attired suspects engross themselves in ‘for hire’ games with names like Hobbit and Bewoulf. (B1) ul. Anielewicza 2, paradox-cafe.pl

Plan B Plan B is the very essence of dive Warsaw. Weekends pass by in a raucous

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blur, with the party spilling out under the colonnades outside – it helps to look like a DJ, but in truth everyone is welcome.

The hangover from this shabby, grubby bar is traumatic. (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), planb.pl

Sheesha Lounge Providing you don’t mind sharing the weekend with some of the most gloriously gorgeous people in the city, then a trip to Sheesha ticks all the boxes.

Presenting itself in a whirl of action, the exotic, clubby atmosphere hits fever pitch come the midnight hour. Earlier, soak up the atmosphere with a scented hookah while lounging under eastern lights.

(D5) Al. Jerozolimskie 33, sheesha.pl

refer to it as The Spider Bar in reference to the giant tarantula that once hung from the wall. There’s an air of louche 60s living here, and it gets weirder when bands with names like the Bum Bum Orchestra enter to play trumpets amongst vodka-tipping guests. (F1) ul. Ząbkowska 6, oparyabsurdu.pl

Warszawa Powiśle The prime months for this former ticket booth arrive each summer when the deckchairs outside provide ample opportunity for the city’s young and fashionable to gather in an almost carnival-like atmosphere. Once seen as the hipster Center of Power, it still maintains great popularity with whiskered, tattooed sorts. (E4) ul.

Kruczkowskiego 3B, warszawapowisle.pl

Stixx It takes a moment to allow the sheer magnitude of Stixx sink in. Having adjusted to the wow factor of the interior – which can best be described as cosmopolitan-industrial – most retreat to the long, all weather deck which in itself is quite something: the aesthetics are such that a cocktail party on an oligarch’s yacht comes to mind. There aren’t many better places for a drink when the roof is rolled back and the stars twinkle above.

(A4) Pl. Europejski 4A, tel. 22 340 4040, stixx.pl

Świetlica Long and narrow, dark and murky, it’s as raw as they come: toilets of grubby menace, a smoking room clad in spray art, broken fittings and general gloom.

Basically, it’s everything you demand from the last bar of the night – a place where you can slide into the shadows and watch the world spin around. (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 17 Ulubiona Set inside the archway, look for a heavy door next to a dented ashtray seemingly unemptied for the last couple of months.

Shadowy and shabby, you’ll usually find barflies strumming guitars or engrossed in a solo game of chess. An intensely personal experience, it’s a bar that compensates for its lack of glitz with a stoner-style ambiance that soon sweeps over all. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 27

W Oparach Absurdu Hidden under Persian rugs, velvety drapes and reclaimed antiques, some still

Worek Kości A celebration of both the burlesque and bizarre, Worek Kości is the bar Edgar Allan Poe would create were he raised from the dead. A lively evening hangout with ad-libbed cocktails and an unconventional program of events, you’re as likely to visit during an open-mic night as you are a discussion on Silesian serial killers. This fascination with the morbid and macabre manifests itself by way of a quirky design featuring hundreds of skulls and book shelves lined with the complete works of Stephen King. (E7) ul. Bagatela 10 Wozownia Founded by the same people behind the ‘ruin bar’ inside the original Hala Koszyki (back when it was a decrepit pile of wobbly, black stonework), Wozownia brings together the hip and beautiful inside a 200-year-old carriage house.

The beer front is pretty dull, but the cocktails can be outstanding whilst the Prosecco is pretty much the cheapest glass of bubbles you’ll uncover in the city.

A sensation over summer, it’s one of the top pre-club spots in the center. Pl. Trzech Krzyży 16, fb.com/WozowniaBar

Żyrafa Sucked inside it’s green/blue glow, visitors all but collide against the bar with a swing of the door. It’s just 15 sq/m, but that doesn’t stop drinkers rolling in.

“There’s some nights we’ve had 30 people in here,” says the barman, a thought that both terrifies and exhilarates in equal measure. (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 22

drink! Listings cafés

Być Może It’s all about artisan bread and breakfast in the industrial looking Być Może. It’s taken the concept of Charlotte (groan, there’s even a communal table), and improved it with excellent breads and a crowd that’s a little less pleased with itself. (E7) ul. Bagatela 14, bycmoze.com.pl Ceramiczna Unless you already live out there, you’re probably going to need a very good reason to visit Tarchomin. Ceramiczna is it. A strong candidate for our favorite interior in town, the design references the halcyon times of vintage design in a way that feels fresh and thrilling. It helps, too, that the coffee is outstanding. It’s a long way from the center, but you’ll want to stay here for hours. ul. Ceramiczna 20 Charlotte Menora If the air is smug and self-satisfied, there’s a good reason for that: Charlotte have come to embody modern urban Poland: energetic, ambitious and ferociously trend conscious. And to think, some look at it as a mere bakery. Occupying a long space, the latest outpost of this café chain doesn’t overlook the area’s Jewish heritage, with the menu featuring several Jewish delicacies: the bagels are ok. (C4) Pl. Grzybowski 2, bistrocharlotte.pl

tiniest cafe in Poland has grown into a cult stop-off for people looking to do something wacky. If you’re into karma, then buy a suspended coffee – order a coffee in advance for a stranger, write a personal message and then hang the cup from a string. (E8) ul. Puławska 11, fb.

com/coffeedeskwilcza

Cophi So small you get the idea you could fit Cophi into the palm of your hand, yet no other place in Warsaw is more devoted to sourcing the best coffees in the world. (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60

Dobro & Dobro Cafe Measuring just six square meters (record attendance: 12 customers!), the

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40, lapidariumcafe.com

com/dobrocafe

EmEsEn Heaving with heavyweight art titles and photo albums, the crowd that gathers in this café/bookstore is suitably leftfield and creative. On the work front, strong wifi and plenty of plugs make this one of the better venues in which to put your nose to the grindstone. Aiding your endeavors is a serious choice of coffee sourced from roasters such as The Barn from Berlin and Melbourne’s Atomica.

(C4) ul. Pańska 3, fb.com/emesen.kawki

FatWhite_CoffeeBar Attached to a super cool barber shop (tatts, beards, crazy whiskers!), this tiny café has a beauty of an interior: swan white with surfaces graced by contemporary artwork that references the Muranów district and dozens of collectible superhero figures (plus a gun-toting Pacino). There’s a real scene going on here, with daylight hours usually packing out with social media types and urban fashionistas. Disarmingly friendly, it’s somewhere near the top of the Insider’s ‘must visit’ cafes. (C1) ul. Andersa 6

Coffeedesk Looking flawless in her pearl white colors, Coffeedesk is a place that does it right.

Brewed by expert coffeeologists, the humble cup of Joe becomes an object of adoration. Populated round-the-clock by head-phoned freelancers and digital nomads tapping into their Macs, it’s a light, bright spot with a dynamic style and a keen sense of sexy. (D5 ul. Wilcza 42, fb.

Polish wine from Mierzęcin Palace and tea courtesy of Harney & Sons. Enjoy these in minimalistic vaulted interiors or in a soothingly calm courtyard garden stacked with gargoyles and other historic elements. (D1) Rynek Starego Miasto

Forum Born with Instagram in mind, Forum has it all: super cool Afro-haired staff, a fashionably frayed interior, and a devoted client base that’s all about out-sized headphones and razor-thin laptops.

Changing weekly, the big pull is a menu of specialty coffees from acclaimed roasters such as Five Elephant and The Coffee Collective fixed up by Poland’s AeroPress and Brewers Cup champion.

(C3) ul. Elektoralna 11, forum.coffee

Lapidarium It’s high time that the Old Town Square had a café worth visiting, but would have thought that it would be a museum providing such? Run under the aegis of the Museum of Warsaw, visitors choose from rustic meals prepped locally by Gospoda Kwiaty Polskie, regional beers,

Kafka Café A chessboard floor and a collection of antlers on the wall characterize Kafka, a bookstore / café whose literary collection is composed of paperbacks rescued from recycling plants. Books are purchased by their weight (zł. 10 per kilo) while the menu includes pancakes, pastas and even doggy treats for your mutt. (E3) ul. Oboźna 3, kawiarnia-kafka.pl

Kawiarnia Fabryczna A place to eavesdrop, catch-up on gmail and daydream the morning away, head to this warm den to sink inside comfy retro chairs and soak up the natural light that pours through the window. Prepared on a Nuova Simonelli machine, the coffee hails from a range of pedigree roasters such as Warsaw’s own Coffee Lab. (E3) ul. Fabryczna 28/30, kawiarniafabryczna.pl

Kawiarnia Kawałek In a district that’s in the process of supersizing itself as Warsaw’s new business district, this neighborhood café offers a human touch in an area rapidly filling itself with glinting glass towers and gated compounds. The warmth of welcome aside, features of this charming bolt hole include coffee sourced from cult roasters as Rocket Bean, and a homemade machine knocking out year-round nitro that’s smoother than velvet. Seated around a small communal table, type your own ode to Wola on a typewriter first bought by the owner’s grandfather. (B4) ul. Łucka 18, fb.com/KawiarniaKawalek

Krem A chic city center hangout with all the swanky, urban elegance of the 8th arrondisement. Opened by the same team behind Monsieur Leon, find their latest little baby decorated with monochrome tiles, marble-topped tables, and retro-styled mirrors. A place of hip sophistication and laid-back vibe, the

drink! Listings menu is built around French cheeseboards, raclette and super sexy baguettes.

a fashion aware, laptop-touting crowd.

(E9) ul. Puławska 48

ul. Tamka 33, fb.com/storcafe

(D6) ul. Śniadeckich 18

Labour Cafe Labour Café’s door crashes open onto a busy space that sets bare raw materials of steel, wood, concrete and brick against lashings of plant life and bursts of poster art. But if the front part is all about catching up with friends and soaking up the vibe over bagels and ‘ethical’ coffee, then outback is where the serious stuff happens – discover a studiously quiet dual-level working space featuring a printer, flipcharts and plentiful light. (E4) ul. Tamka 49, labour.pl

Ministerstwo Kawy Sourcing their coffee from Koppi, an internationally acclaimed Swedish roasting house, the ministry takes no short cuts in their pursuit of excellence.

Utilizing Ethiopian, Costa Rican and Brazilian arabicas – some exclusive to Poland – barista Wojciech Rzytki has earned a reputation across Poland for his expert hand. Rave reviews are standard and appropriate. (D6) ul. Marszałkowska

RelaxNaWilczej

Resort Originally known for their OTT recycling motif (shopping trolleys re-purposed as seats, street signs as tables...), Resort have pared the design down replacing the old junk with a cool, caramel-colored look high on wood, plants and discreet retro accents. Craft beer, eco-friendly bites, clever cocktails and quality coffee contribute to their popularity, as does a busy events program that’s big on comedy and open mic nights. (C2) ul. Bielańska 1 Robusta With the generic Nero on one side, and the super cool Fat White on the other, Robusta occupies a middle ground in more ways than one. Whether it can compete with either is to be seen, but for now there’s no doubt that it’s mere existence is further proof of Andersa’s rising stock. To like: ample spaces, a chilled out playlist, an urbane design and wifi that’s as fast as an arrow. Hopes are high this could yet become a lynchpin of the area. (C1) ul.

Andersa 21A

Odette Tearoom Taking its lead from their original dessert stop on ul. Górskiego, the sister venue peddles glorious cakes and pralines as well as a hand-picked selection of boutique teas served in a fragrant and elegant atmosphere. (C4) ul. Twarda 4, odette.pl

Relaks Expertly prepared, right down to the foam art, the baristas here use the finest imported machines and work only with fair trade, ‘specialty’ coffee. If you have time, the drip coffees are more than worth the wait. The crowded interiors supply a retro accent, and are enjoyed by

Relax Na Wilczej Characterized by structured simplicity, it’s a venue that maximizes space and light. Never overly complex, clean lines of vision are interrupted only by a scattering of coffee tomes and a statement mural

by Mariusz Tarkawian. Calm and intuitive, it’s an interior that feels both effective and efficient. And as for the coffee: one sip and you’re hooked. Order the silky smooth nitro. (D5) ul. Wilcza 17, fb.com/

Niezłe Ziółko Café & Deli A shrine to pure and healthy eating, this friendly café doesn’t just brew a great coffee, but bakes its own bread and produces its own yogurt. Sit in the loft to look down on shoppers scurrying to Mokotowska, and on the way out, check out ‘Grandma’s Cupboard’ in the corner: jams, spreads and olive oils are there to buy for home. (D5) ul. Krucza 17

27, ministerstwokawy.pl

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design touches: time runs away here and before you know it hours have passed.

Same Fusy Suffused in a candle-lit glow, this 15th century cellar unwinds to reveal a charming brick room suspended in time. Filled with gnarled wooden oddities and tree stump tables, the sweet aroma of fragrant teas helps amplify the fairy tale mood. ul. Nowomiejska 10

Stor Buying their coffee from revered roasters such as Berlin’s Bonanza and Stockholm’s Drop Coffee, Stor have grown to become a giant presence on Warsaw’s café map. Visitors bask in natural light amid outbreaks of greenery and quirky

Targowy Nestled beneath Ed Red lies Targowy, a long bar cast in dim blue lights and permanent shadow: design thrills are minimal, but there’s a special something at work here, an X-factor of sorts.

Occupied simply by high tables and a bar composed of colored, plastic crates, what it lacks in visuals it makes up for via an offer that feels diverse and democratic: a smattering of craft beer, hardcore vodka, decent cocktails served by enthusiastic bar dudes. Simple in concept (“let’s create a bar with something for everyone,” you imagine the owners saying), but it really does work. We love it – lots. (B3) Pl. Mirowski 1

Wrzenie Świata Those with journalistic leanings love Wrzenie Świata. It’s definitely more Macbook than Moleskine, but this bookstore/café attracts plenty of readers (and writers) to its book-lined interior.

Buzzing like a cafe should, it packs out for slideshows and seminars. (E4) ul.

Gałczyńskiego 7

clubs Enklawa Forget Tinder, Enklawa is the best pick-up joint around – a classic kitschy, glitzy disco, it draws in huge crowds with a simple lineup of pop and dance hits. Still regarded as the best Wednesday night in Warsaw, it’s the place for singletons looking for a one-night confidence boost.

(D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, enklawa.com

Luztro Don’t sit down, you won’t know what you might catch. Dark and generally filthy, Warsaw’s most (in)famous club only gets going around about three. As the hours click towards daybreak, the scenes of depravity are like something from Sodom and Gomorrah. Enjoyed by zombies that quite definitely don’t have to be up for work anytime in the next 48 hrs, it’s not just the full-on techno that will leave the brain rattling – it’s the craziest night in Poland! (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, luztro.pl

Drink! Listings N58 The latest entry on Warsaw’s club circuit have issued a manifesto promising deep vocal house, r’n’b, mash-ups and theme nights centered around Afro Beats / trap / twerk and hip hop. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58

drinks poised in hand. Heating up gradually as the night progresses, Ritual moves organically from being a voluptuous bar to a spicy club as the night ebbs towards its heady conclusion. (D3) ul. Mazowiecka

No Comment A secret world for those In The Know, find No Comment in a seedy-looking tower under Poniatowski Bridge. Clad in decadent, blue velvety surfaces, this tiny bi-level club feels redolent of an afterhours Parisian members club: everyone seems to know each other, and after a bottle of bubbles you will as well. (F4) Al. 3

Room 13 Connected by a series of inter-linking archways, rooms inside this dressy club throb at the weekends with a super sexy crowd letting loose under the vaulted ceilings. Now in their fifth year, it’s become a stalwart of the Mazowiecka scene. (D3)

Maja 16/18A, Most Poniatowskiego

Ritual Looking dark and sensual, this two-level space unwraps before you like some elaborate adventure. Candles flicker, atmosphere crackles – moving towards the bar, slinky, sultry club creatures of unfathomable beauty prowl past with

12, ritualwarsaw.com

ul. Mazowiecka 13, room13.pl

Sen Entering this top-floor joint, visitors are hit by a tidal wave of gorgeousness: wallto-wall with George Clooney lookalikes, off-duty celebrities and catwalk glamor pusses, the carefree hedonism is like something from a film – only tonight, you’re one of the stars. Sod the bank account, you think, bring me champagne:

enjoy just that on a terrace deck slung with Edison bulbs, or indoors in an area festooned with deluxe sofas and floor-toceiling windows that stare out onto the National Stadium opposite. The good life doesn’t get any better. (F4) ul. Wioślarska 6 Smolna 38 Hated by the selfie mob (guests have to cover their phones with a sticker), rated by everyone else, Smolna’s nights have grown to become legend. Pete Tong, Simian Mobile Disco and Hercules & Love Affair have all played in the past, which says much for the management’s ambition. (E4) ul. Smolna 38, smolna38.com Spatif The varied music policy shines a light on a revolving schedule of sounds, pinning its attention on everything from jazz and soul to Britpop and electro.

Spread across a series of chambers decorated with vintage fittings, parquet floors and wood-paneled walls, Spatif’s

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drink! Listings main success lies in replicating that fun, spontaneous feel of a house party that’s spiraled out of control: no matter their individual back story, everyone gets on (and occasionally gets off). Just about the most unpretentious club night you’ll find, this labyrinthine pre-war tenement feels fun, diverse and never up its own arse.

The View Occupying the upper levels of a skyscraper, The View is a place of bubbles and beauties and all things glam. A world class venue, past crowd pullers include Bob Sinclair and David Morales.

In summer, the glam and the gorgeous won’t be seen anywhere but the open air rooftop deck: it’s pure NYC. (C4) ul. Twarda 18, theview.pl

cocktails 6 Cocktails If 6 Cocktails has the feeling of hanging around someone’s flat that’s because, actually, you are. This posh Mokotowska apartment has been re-adapted as an exclusive bar frequented by leggy models and society figures: the parties are nuts! Unmarked from street level, to enjoy the inventive cocktails message them on FB and await your invite. (E5) ul. Mokotowska 57

Back Room Plush fabrics, muted lighting, intuitive service, a well-scrubbed crowd, a flickering fireplace and shelves displaying drinks as if they were trophies: the ambiance is nailed down to such an extent that those who use this speakeasy for pre-club drinks often find themselves skipping the club bit altogether. And why bother with anywhere else when you have masterpiece cocktails that are immaculate, imaginative and mixed with practiced expertise. The close quarters of the venue and playful nature of the guests make accidental conversation something of an occurrence. It’s a social place – be sociable! (D6) ul. Koszykowa 49A, fb.com/ BackRoomWarsaw

Biała Saska’s premier cocktail spot reaches its zenith each summer thanks to a leafy back garden that stands shaded by this

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modernist building: it’s worth visiting just to swan down the spiral stairs with a glass of something bubbly. ul. Francuska 2, fb.com/bialazjedziwypij

Ceviche Bar The ‘bar’ bit in the name isn’t a deceit, it’s there for a reason: here, the design, DJs and drinks work seamlessly to generate an ambiance that’s buzzy, energetic and something of a scene.

Yet though the cocktails have long been celebrated, the ante’s been upped by a new ‘Nikkei’ card that combines Peruvian and Japanese techniques and ingredients. Of the standouts, none earn higher praise than the Matero, a mix of Japanese yuzu citruses and Pisco infused with Yerba Mate. You won’t stop at one. (C4) ul. Twarda 4, cevichebar.pl Charlie Crowd: glam & vampy. The venue: equally so. Occupying the first floor of a pre-war tenement, there’s a magic here that summons the age of F. Scott Fitzgerald – Gatsby would love it. The ace in the pack is a ‘subconscious menu’ from which clients order mystery cocktails based on their scent. (E6)

Kita Koguta The staff aren’t afraid to get imaginative, and that includes serving cocktails in smoking coconut husks. Aimed at a younger crowd largely in their 20s, it’s a good-humored, lively cocktail bar that’s famed around the country for the creativity of its bartenders. Next door, visit their sister bar, Kiti. Dominated by a tall Polynesian totem, this ray of sunshine gets noted for extravagant cocktails served by game staff in zany shirts. (E5) ul. Krucza 6/14

Long Bar Decked out with smooth marble, natural oak, striking art and soft tan leather, it’s a venue that writes a new chapter in the 160-year story of the venerable Europejski Hotel. Luxurious while never being excessive or ostentatious, there’s a calming sense of class that feels elegant yet relaxed: expensive, yes, prohibitive, no.

Intuitive service, sophisticated drinks and an interior that feels timeless yet historic in equal measure – for the full Raffles experience, order from their choice of signature Slings. (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13 (Raffles Europejski), raffles. com/warsaw

ul. Mokotowska 39

Cosmo Bar Though they’ve made a big noise about embracing a variety of initiatives aimed at maximizing sustainability, Tomek Roehr’s Cosmo Bar project, is more than a one-trick pony. Beyond the novelty factor is a scrupulous attention to detail that manifests itself in impeccable cocktails based around Polish produce – rowanberry, sea buckthorn and suchlike.

Panorama Sky Bar The Marriott’s 40th floor Panorama has had a couple of incarnations: first, as a glitzy Dynasty throwback, and then, more recently, as something that could have passed for a business class airport lounge. Now it’s been reinvented once again, only this time successfully: find slick, vibrant interiors redolent of London matched up with modern cocktails and twinkling views. (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie

ul. Twarda 4, cosmobar.pl

65/79, panoramabar.pl

El Koktel The pert and pretty are here, so too the well-groomed modern man, but there’s a balance to the crowd that prevents any whiff of snob. As a bar it feels open-minded, engaging and intelligent, and those are traits that rub off on those present. Drinks – such as the smoking Out Of The Box – are insanely good, and served in a small, high-ceilinged interior busy with framed vintage posters, cyancolored wallpaper, baffling photos of Lynch-esque scenes and gleaming strainers and shakers. (D4) ul. Wojciecha Górskiego 9, elkoktel.pl

Podwale Bar & Books Though it doesn’t have to be winter to enjoy T Podwale Bar & Books, it definitely helps.

R C P T M Seen through frosted, foggy windows W it’s Ca venue that reveals itself as a place ≈ W C of dark, delicious colors and rarefied ≈ C air.C Occupying the kind of charismatic ≈ T gatehouse you’d read about in Dickens, ≈ P E position yourself in front of the upstairs ≈ L Sfor a celebratory cigar and a fireplace glass of tall and lovely: the P B something B cocktails are in a class of their own and HE MOST

EFRESHINGLY LACES

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Wąski Dunaj 20, 00-256 Warsaw Tel.: +48 225.599.199

Drink! Listings specifically customized for the season.

(D2) ul. Wąski Dunaj 20, barandbooks.pl

now before everyone else does. And don’t forget to head up the stairs to their cool little sister, Gram (see Bars). (D6) ul.

The Roots Having recruited some of the top bartenders in Poland, The Roots have a serious artillery on which to rely. So committed is this haunt, its walls are graced by a vast collection of cocktail memorabilia: antique jiggers, shakers, coolers, not to mention an original signed copy of the world’s first cocktail handbook (published: 1862!). (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 11

Marszałkowska 45/49

Warmut Set in the Commie era No Man’s Land between Zbawiciela and Konstytucji, it’s become one of the hottest nights in town. This vermouth-inspired cocktail bar features classic and house creations, and a spectacular design involving street art, greenery and mirrored walls. But the piece de resistance? Those are the scale models of local landmarks that hang from the ceiling. Instagram them

(D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 11, welesbar.pl

classics from a bygone era. Some are more successful than others, and it’s a credit to the staff that they’re willing to take comments on board. E5) ul. Wilcza 8, wodaognista.com

Weles Named after the Slavic god of the underworld, everything about Weles evokes the spirit of indulgence: a zinc 1920s ceiling imported from the States, a crystal chandelier and a wooden bar carved from a British carousel. A work of refined craftsmanship, the cocktails stand out as the most sophisticated in the city.

Woda Ognista Woda Ognista evokes the jazzy air of a Chicago, Prohibition era speakeasy with a seriously stylish interior that includes a colossal collection of vintage cocktail shakers that glint behind glass. The drinks themselves, rattled up by dapper gents in braces and flat caps, are split between house creations and reprised

craft beer Artezan Pub The country has crazier breweries for sure, but does it have anyone more consistent than the lads at Artezan. Famed for their Pacific – the quintessential domestic IPA – Artezan’s flagship bar is a standard bearer not just for quality, but for Poland as a whole. (D4) ul. Moniuszki 1A Chmielarnia Musty, muggy, murky. Head into the basement depths of the fishing institute to discover Chmielarnia, a subterranean tap bar where artisan beers rule the roost: check the ‘glass tomb’ filled with

A F R E N C H R E V E L AT I O N REDOLENT OF A PARISIEN COURTYARD BAKERY, YOU’LL SMELL THE AROMA OF OUR FRESHLY BAKED BREAD FROM DAWN. OPEN THROUGH THE DAY, WE’RE DELIGHTED TO SERVE OUR FAMOUS BREAKFASTS, TRADITIONAL PASTRIES NOT TO MENTION A SELECTION OF WINES FOR YOUR DINNER. WE LOOK FORWARD TO WELCOMING YOU.

Być Może

ul. Bagatela 14

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drink! Listings mainstream macro lagers. The bar gets loud and rackety, sweaty and sticky, and seems especially popular with geeks and know-it-alls discussing their beer’s ‘finish’ and ‘nose’. (B4) ul. Twarda 42 Chmielarnia Marszałkowska A breath of fresh air when compared to the original – literally. Points are earned by whoever thought to add an Indian menu, while other pluses are awarded for a fridge housing exciting brews trending around the globe: from super cool Bermondsey breweries to Scandinavian legends, it’s a place you feel actually broadens your horizons. (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16

Craft Beer Muranów Though still an area thick with beretwearing, dachshund-walking oldies, Muranów is fast catching up with the rest of Warsaw. Taking care of the craft beer angle is this newbie, a bi-level bar with warm tones and 16 taps of beery goodness. ul. Andersa 23, fb.com/craftbeermuranow

Cuda Na Kiju Where it all began. Summer catches Warsaw’s original tap bar at its best, with the courtyard of the former Communist Party HQ now home to an entirely different kind of party: on occasions find food trucks and film screenings, and all other times just a massive crowd getting

sloshed on 15 types of tap beer. But even outside the sweaty months Cuda is worth the visit: drink inside a modern, glass cube that’s refreshingly contemporary.

(E4) ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, cudanakiju.pl

Cześć It started as a café, but now Cześć is better known as being at the forefront of the new generation of ‘quali-tap’ bars – small little places with six or so beers on tap. The two owners, Piotrek and Kuba, take their beer seriously, so do expect plenty of new finds as well as traditional favorites from stalwarts like Artezan and Pinta. The laidback, neighborhood atmosphere is making it increasingly popular with a tight-knit circle of ex-pat drinkers. (C3) ul. Grzybowska 2 (through the side passage), czesc.waw.pl

Czeska Baszta Contained within a grotty bridge support, divey Czeska is permanently immersed in a foggy, yellow glow. Boisterous but extremely friendly, there’s a reason for all the man hugs and back slaps: everyone’s smashed! The frothy pints of lager are sourced from the owner’s favorite small town breweries, and the fridge kept stocked courtesy of his own cross-border forays. (E4) Tower 22A, Most Poniatowskiego, czeskabaszta.pl

Drugie Dno The natural start (or finish) point of any

Nowogrodzka pub crawl, head to The Double D for a space that conjures to mind a disused power station: sporting rugged brickwork and a scuffed style, the neo-industrial look is ramped up with the liberal use of steel girders, vintage voltage meters and toilets disguised as elevator shafts. Sixteen taps to drink through, many of them offering extreme drinking solutions from Europe’s most radical breweries. Looks great, tastes great, a factor that ensure a male-to-female ratio that feels roughly equal. (D5) ul.

Nowogrodzka 4

Drugie Dno Ochota Choice is thinner than the original (just eight taps), but there’s something here that really seems to work. Set over two floors, there’s a warmth and atmosphere that radiates throughout. An interesting design inspired by the original is matched with decent pizzas and a location down a leafy side street that’s gradually getting noticed for its neighborhood scene. (A6) ul. Tarczyńska 5/9

Goraczka Zlota Get down with the locals at Gorączka Złota, a steamy pub with a rowdy atmosphere. Touting the dimensions of a cabin boy’s quarters, this pungent, pokey den is one of the oldest bars in town.

Despite carrying many epic beers from Poland’s rebel brewers, there’s nothing faddish about GZ and it’s this sense of normalcy that lends it its enduring appeal.

(D5) ul. Wilcza 29, goraczka-zlota.com.pl

Jabeerwocky Steeped in multinational drunken babble, the super sociable Jabbers is famed for its innovative beer selection and convivial atmosphere. Mark it down as an absolute must-visit, especially if you’re a fan of stout and cider. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 12, taproom.pl

Kufle i Kapsle Found somewhere round the top of Warsaw’s hierarchy of craft beer bars, Kufle welcomes all, from entry level novices taking their first steps in the beery world to note-taking nerds conducting research for their blogs. Interiors are respectful of the building’s pre-war heritage and are thick with noise, clamor and the reassuring smell of spillage. The edgy beer selection becomes is even more radical

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Drink! Listings when you look down in the fridge. (D5) ul.

Nowogrodzka 25 Kufle i Kapsle Powiśle Doing it in a way that feels shabby, gritty but yet totally cool, this is a bar that riffs on themes of industrial and retro to maximum effect. Ground floor: a small bar area with a secret strip of seating snaking back behind; upstairs, the kind of retro furnishings last seen when Brezhnev was wearing shorts. On tap, find a fluctuating choice of 12 crazy beers sourced from the kind of breweries that make Poland seem progressive. When you’re done, prove your allegiance to KiK by visiting their third venue in Żoliborz. (E3) ul. Solec 46A Maryensztadt Craft Beer It’s a mixed crowd of locals and tourists that gather in Maryensztadt, a large bar whose 12 taps showcase the highs (and occasional lows) produced by the brewery that gives this pub its name. Set across a series of cavernous chambers inside an

attractive Old Town property, its not just beer buffs that it appeals to: sourcing their ingredients from small-scale farmsteads, the kitchen wing of Maryensztadt does a convincing job of representing the tastier side of regional Poland. (D1) ul. Szeroki Dunaj 11 Mikkeller Bar Warsaw Light and bright the sparsity of the interior is a surprise: a classic case of less is more, here the punchline is given to the beer. That means twenty taps firing out a revolving roster of kickass beers that, thus far, have included lambic-style ‘SpontanPear’ and yuzu flavored Berliner weisse. It’s an utter geek-gasm for beer nerds. Prices for the Danish stuff start in the early 20s and soar upwards to reach eye-watering levels – in return, you’re getting brilliant beer that breaks brewing boundaries.

For cheapskates, Polish options kick-off at approx. 13 PLN. (D4) ul. Chmielna 7/9,fb. com/MikkellerBarWarsaw

Same Krafty Squashed into two narrow, rugged rooms decorated with benches and rough plaster walls, Same Krafty have rescued Old Town from big beer brands peddling piss.

Offering artisan alternatives, this intimate bar lures daring tourists looking to explore the more subversive side of Polish brewing. Sustenance comes by way of big wheels of pizza that are surprisingly good.

(D1) ul. Nowomiejska 10

Warzą się Losy “Nowhere in Warsaw,” boasts the barman, “has more beer taps per square meter.”

Despite its diminutive footprint, WsL punches above its weight with eight taps turning out new generation Polish beer.

Decked out like an anechoic chamber, the combination of good beer and mouse hole dimensions mean that it doesn’t take long for conversations to crossover with the scattering of strangers at the bar. Soon enough everyone’s drinking together and toasting the night. (D7) ul. Oleandrów 3

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drink! Listings for gentlemen

champion flair bartender. More than just show, the tastes are incredible. (C2) ul.

Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl

Playhouse Housed in a former subterranean bomb shelter, the talk now is of bombshells: namely the 57 stunners they’ve got listed on their books. Inspired by high class joints in London and Vegas, it’s a refined choice with a no-pressure atmosphere and door staff that don’t look like they’re going to kick your head in. (B3) Al. Solidarności 82A, playhouse.pl

live music

Hydrozagadka Set out in the wildlands of Praga, consider Hydrozagadka as the heart of unforced cool. Known for its alternative music scene, the low-ceiling and tight, crowded nature of it generate an electrifying atmosphere where the audience and band become one. Walking a fine line between industrial and straight out decrepit, the atmosphere is second to none: drinks flow, strangers meet and music smashes out: you can feel something special happening here. ul. 11 Listopada 22, hydrozagadka.waw.pl

Klub Pogłos Arguably Warsaw’s No. 1 venue for alternative music, Pogłos checks all the requisite boxes: a divey, gritty look, a liberal atmosphere and an army of fans willing and eager to embrace the seamier side of night. The packed program of events runs from spoken word performances and vegan BBQs, to sweaty tribute concerts celebrating The Smiths. At other times, you’ll be listening to touring Berlin-based bands, hardcore DJs or psychedelic soul from the likes of King Khan And The Shrines. If it’s weird, it’s on. ul. Burakowska 12, fb.com/klubpoglos

vodka Dom Wódki Those expecting Dom Wódki to be a standard mucky shot bar are in for a surprise.

Sparkling with over 250 artisanal vodkas, find them incorporated into inspirational drinks mixed by Tomasz Małek, a world

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WuWu Open round-the-clock, this 24-hour bar is the place in which to enjoy a prodigious choice of vodka inside a chic, dimly-lit environment that resounds to the singalong hits of communist Poland.

Serving classic drinking bites (sour cream and herring, beef tartar, etc.) and an array of expertly fixed cocktails, it’s a spot that promises to become the place to be for a higher class of night owl. If this is gentrification, we’re all for it. (G1) Pl. Konesera 1

wine bars

Ale Wino!

Without doubt, peak time is the summer when drinkers congregate on a courtyard deck shielded by a sail. But winter ain’t so bad either with this covert wine bar unraveling to reveal a series of little chambers. The wine choice is comprehensive and it’s ably supported by some of the best cooking in the city: chef Sebastian Wełpa is one of Warsaw’s great, golden talents. (E5) ul. Mokotowska 48, alewino.pl

Bubbles Such is the style of Bubbles it feels like Valentine’s all year round: high on intimacy, it’s a charming ensemble of rickety crates and deep, dark colors. But the clincher, that’s the prodigious selection of champagne. Now while you’d usually expect a champagne bar to be filled with footballers wives and berks with fake tans, Bubbles feels inclusive, convivial and anything but vain. (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, bubbles.com.pl

Dyletanci Filled with immaculate, modern citizens that drive beamers and jeeps, everyone here looks pretty pleased with themselves – and after a drink, so will you. Aside from the sensational cooking of Rafał Hreczaniuk, join the good lookers for an exceptional wine list that includes a hefty offer from Poland (inc. wines from the proprietor’s own label, Dom Bliskowice).

(F5) ul. Rozbrat 44, dyletanci.pl

Kieliszki Na Hożej Pointing attention towards small and medium-sized European producers (Italian, in particular), sommelier Paweł Demianiuk has composed a wine list that’s interesting, smart but also comprehensible. Named in a nod to the 1,116 glasses that hang above the bar (we didn’t count, so don’t shoot the messenger), all wines are available by the glass. ul. Hoża 41, kieliszkinahozej.pl

Mielżyński Wine Bar Founded in 2004, this ivy-clad warehousestyle enterprise lit the touch paper for Poland’s wine revolution. Emanating casual city cool, it’s still the yardstick against which all others are measured.

It’s a default choice for first dates, and if things go well then walk amid the shelves and pick something for later.

(A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7 (also on Czerska 12), mielzynski.pl

Nowina The striking interior that catches the eye from across the street – restored pre-war tiling, glinting surfaces, a world map rendered from corks and an engaging reddish glow all do their bit to lend Nowina the kind of atmosphere that’s missing in most local wine bars. Add to that an exciting international menu and a selection of over 400 wines and you have an absolute winner. ul. Nowogrodzka 4, nowina.waw.pl

Rusiko Wine Bar Designed to act as a casual extension of the neighboring Rusiko restaurant, this wine bar showcases Warsaw’s biggest selection of Georgian wine inside an interior that feels intimate, jazzy and highly atmospheric. Elaborate rugs, deep rouge in color, hang from tall sapphire walls, while impossibly high ceilings do much to generate a swirl of soft, muffled sound. A place of good mood and organic hospitality, it’s no surprise to learn that the bitey menu is an ample reflection of Rusiko’s award-winning reputation. (E5) Al. Ujazdowskie 22, fb.com/winebarrusiko

Winosfera Once a pre-war cinema, now a stunning wine bar / store with one of the most impressive collections in Poland: an expense account comes in handy. (B3) ul.

Chłodna 31, winosfera.pl

do!

YOU’RE AXED!

The words ‘sudden death’ are not what you want to hear when you’re in a cage with a big, clunky axe. It’s in sudden death fashion, however, that scores are settled in the event of a tie-break. Welcome to the primal world of axe throwing, a competitive sport currently cresting in Canada. Now, you’ve guessed it, it’s thwacked down here in Warsaw. Located in Postępu 5, a cool assembly of food vendors in the darkest heart of Mordor, the capital’s first axe throwing club has caught the imagination since opening last March. “Bowling is for pussies,” screams their website, and being here, you’ll most likely agree. Ideal for bonding, dating or just burying the hatchet, it’s the very definition of raw, caveman fun.

Axe Nation Postępu 5, axenation.com

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DO! Review

NOTHING LASTS FOREVER

O

ngoing throughout March, Królikarnia’s Monument exhibition explores the ‘functions, histories and processes to which monuments are subject’, presenting the biographies of over twenty such objects from Central Eastern Europe. Beginning with their design, through to their erection and, ultimately, destruction, the exhibition seeks to celebrate the monuments that have fallen from grace owing to political factors and

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foment debate on this topic.

Featuring a section devoted to the ‘debris and remains of monuments’, salvaged bits and pieces include chunks of commie revolutionary Feliks Dzerzhinsky (once found standing on Pl. Bankowy), Jedwabne’s Lenin, as well as the Red Army monument recently removed from Park Skaryszewski.

Królikarnia ul. Puławska 113A, pomnik.art

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

An exhibition at Królikarnia examines the ignominious fate suffered by a growing number of monuments scattered about Central Eastern Europe.

DO! events

FASHION Slow Fashion

9-10 March @ Pl. Konesera 2 (Centrum Praskie Koneser) A celebration of independent Polish fashion and design, over 250 brands and producers will be present, with the fair showcasing clothing, jewelry and accessories whilst also featuring lectures and seminars focused on ‘better fashion, responsible choices and conscious consumption’, as well as workshops inspired by the ‘slow’ ethos.

EDITOR’S PICK Garden of Light 3 March @ Wilanów Palace, Stanisława Kostki Potockiego 10/16

Marking the end of winter, Wilanów Palace’s magnificent Garden of Light will shut up shop for the season after this last, final swansong. Lit by in excess of 300,000 pulsating diodes, lose yourself in a sea of thematic areas whilst tunes

by Tchaikovsky and Vivaldi tinkle in the background. It’s beguiling, bewitching and even a little bewildering.

For info, see: wilanow-palac.pl

FAIR Targi Sztuki Dostępnej

2-3 March @ Babka, ul.

Młocinska 5/7 The first professional art fair in Poland with a price limit of up to zł. 5,000 seeks to promote high quality, inexpensive contemporary art. Represented genres will include culture, photography, street art, graphics, paintings and applied arts.

For further info, see: targisztukidostepnej.pl

CONCERT Lil Xan

9 March @ Klub Stodoła, ul. Batorego 10

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For info, see: slow-fashion.pl

CONFERENCE Return Of The Repressed

15 March @ Polin, ul. Anielewicza 6 Return of the Repressed will be the third conference of an international research project devoted to the history of the psychoanalysis within the PolishGerman-Jewish cultural context.

Tickets from zł. 240 @ psychoanaliza.org.pl

Touted as one of the most promising rappers of recent times, Californian Lil Xan arrives to Poland with a soaring reputation enhanced by the success of his 2018 debut album, Total Xanarchy.

Tickets from zł. 115 @ livenation.pl

DANCE Retro Weekend

7-10 March @ various locations This annual international Lindy Hop festival will feature several globally recognized teachers, live music, competitions and ‘retro boutiques’.

For further info, see: retroweekend.pl

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2019

CONCERT Doda

21 March @ COS Torwar, ul. Łazienkowska 6A The iconic Polish songstress is set to perform her greatest hits to the accompaniment of a fully-fledged orchestra.

Tickets from zł. 75 @ ebilet.pl

CONCERT Laurent Garnier

22 March @ Smolna, ul.

Smolna 38 A legend on the electronic scene, the French DJ returns to Smolna having all but blown the roof off it two years back.

Tickets on the door, zł. 50

FOOD Vege Festival

24 March @ Palace of Culture, Pl. Defilad 1 Warsaw’s status as one of the world’s leading vegan destinations (yes, really!) is lent further weight by this festival. Ready yourself for the best vendors in the country as well lectures, seminars and stalls selling animal free products and accessories.

Tickets on the door, zł. 5

CONCERT Dave Matthews Band

25 March @ COS Torwar, ul. Łazienkowska 6A The jam-funk maestros hit Poland to perform their best-known hits as well as material from 2018’s Come Tomorrow, their first studio album in six years.

For info, see: bilety.imprezyprestige.com

CONCERT Wu-Tang Clan: GZA

27 March @ Klub Proxima, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 99A GZA, one of the Clan’s founding members, performs in Poland as part of the Liquid Swords v Dark Matter European tour.

Tickets @ big-idea.eu

FOOD Food Truck Meet-Up

30-31 March @ National Stadium, Al. Poniatowskiego 1 Food truck season officially kicks-off with this meet-up.

Expected to attract around 100 participating food trucks, look forward to eating your way through the best street tastes Poland has to offer.

Admission free

DO! museums

POSTER MUSEUM

Copernicus Science Centre Featuring hundreds of interactive exhibitions, it’s a place that allows young and old alike to blast objects into space, experience an earthquake or steer exploratory robots. ul.

Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, kopernik.org.pl

CSW Situated in a baroque-style castle the center hosts artists from all over the world.

The on-site bookshop is of particular interest for artists and intellectuals. ul. Jazdów 2, csw.art.pl

Dom Spotkań z Historią The History Meeting House wins points for small but frequently excellent exhibitions that cover topics such as ‘rebuilding Warsaw’ and ‘Socialist Realist architecture.’

ethnomuseum.pl

Fotoplastikon Thought to date from 1905, Warsaw’s Fotoplastikon generates 3D perspectives from a set of 2D images: visitors peer through an eyepiece and are taken on a trip around the world while music from days yore parps away in the background. Al. Jerozolimskie 51, fotoplastikonwarszawski.pl

Fryderyk Chopin Museum The 18th century Ostrogski Palace is the perfect foil for the ultra-modern content of this multi-sensory space. The personal items are enchanting, but the big victory here is the museum’s ability to suck visitors right back into the times of Chopin through the use of interactive sights and sounds. ul. Okólnik 1, chopin.museum

ul. Karowa 20, dsh.waw.pl

Ethnographic Museum Considerably revamped to meet the demands and attention-spans of the 21st century sightseer, the Ethnographic Museum is a visual pleasure that showcases colorful costumes, fabrics and ceramics from Poland and beyond. ul. Kredytowa 1,

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The Heritage Interpretation Center This small venue tells the complex story of Old Town’s reconstruction: if the first section about Warsaw’s physical elimination is poignant, then the others do a fabulous job of sharing the optimism and alacrity that followed. ul.

Brzozowa 11-13, mhw.pl

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2019

Z AC H Ę TA

Jewish Historical Institute Officially opened in 1947 the Jewish Historical Institute was created to serve as an archive of Jewish culture in Warsaw. It contains artwork, historical artifacts and important documents from the city’s rich Jewish past. ul.

split into a few different sections: one devoted to state and subversive literature, others to fashion and style.

The highlight, though, is the recreation of a commie-era apartment. ul. Piękna 28/34, adventurewarsaw.com

Tłomackie 3/5, jhi.pl

Museum of Praga The Praga Museum tells the story of the area with such charm and simplicity that it manages to leave an unlikely impression that’s as punchy as that of the big institutions. Star billing goes to a restored Jewish prayer room and the Flying Carpet: an exhibit festooned with various trinkets and treasures once available for purchase from local pavement traders. ul. Targowa

Katyń Museum This museum commemorates the murder of 21,000 Polish officers by the Soviets in the spring of 1940. Beyond its quite staggering architectural merit, the museum has done a stunning job of collecting and presenting artifacts relating to the slaughter. ul. Jeziorańskiego 4, muzeumkatynskie.pl

Marie Skłodowska-Curie Musuem Reopened after a significant re-haul, this museum celebrates the groundbreaking scientist that discovered polonium. The Curie-osities include lab equipment, her trademark black dress and even her nail file. ul. Freta 16, en.muzeum-msc.pl

Museum of Communist Life Lovingly assembled by its young owner, the museum is

50/52, muzeumwarszawy.pl

Museum of Warsaw Over 8,000 objects detail the story of Warsaw, and these include peculiar souvenirs, scale models, old postcards and recovered works of art.

Cohesive and comprehensive yet never too overwhelming, the trail climaxes with vertiginous views of the Rynek below. Unmissable.

Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42,

DO! Listings

POLIN

National Museum Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars. Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.

prison assumed a doubly sinister function under the Nazis. Some 100,000 Polish political prisoners were held here, 37,000 of which were executed on-site. Split in two sections, cells are found on one side, while on the other the full story of the invasion and occupation. ul. Dzielna

art.pl

24/26

muzeumwarszawy.pl

The Neon Museum Filled with salvaged signage, this museum houses several dozen neons that once lit up the capital. The emphasis is firmly on the PRL era, a time when the nation’s best graphic designers were nutty for neon. ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org

Palmiry National Memorial Museum An excellent multimedia exhibition set next to a cemetery holding the graves of 1,700 Poles executed in the first years of Nazi occupation.

The museum tells their forgotten story as well as that of the siege and subsequent occupation of Warsaw.

Palmiry, palmiry.mhw.pl

Pawiak What was once a Tsarist

Polin Composed of eight galleries, each covers a different stage of local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day. Highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec synagogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical inter-war Jewish Warsaw street. Named the European Museum of the Year in 2016. ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl

Polish Vodka Museum Documenting the nation’s 600-year-old love affair with the tipple, visits kick-off in earnest with displays that trace the origins of the drink, its early beginnings as a medicinal supplement, and its gradual acceptance into mainstream society. High-

NEON MUSEUM

lights include a motherlode of vintage bottles and an interactive chamber in which visitors can test their alcohol knowledge, learn about salutation customs and strap-on goggles to see the disorienting effects of overconsumption. Pl. Konesera 1, muzeumpolskiejwodki.pl

Exhibits range from a full-size replica of a Liberator plane, to a sewer beneath the cinema screen and a slice of bread preserved from 1944.

And don’t miss the ‘City of Ruins’, a five minute 3D film which takes you on an aerial journey over devastated Warsaw. ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl

The Royal Castle in Warsaw Highlights include the lavishly restored 18th century royal apartments with 22 paintings by Canaletto, the Senators’ Chamber in which the Constitution of the Third of May was signed, the biggest collection of oriental rugs in Europe and two remarkable Rembrandt paintings. Pl. Zamkowy 4, zamek-krolewski.pl

The Warsaw Amber Museum Part of Bursztynek, a dedicated amber shop, has been turned into a curious museum detailing the history of amber. Rynek Starego Miasta 4/6, bursztynek.co

Warsaw Rising Museum Cope with the crowds to discover the definitive story of the 1944 Uprising in town.

Wola Museum What was once a dreary old place has been rebooted as a smart communityminded museum and one of the most forward-thinking institutions in the capital.

Bringing the wider area of Wola alive, find engaging content that’s creatively presented: posters, family memorabilia and various media relating to the area. ul.

Srebrna 12, mhw.pl

Zachęta National Art Gallery Regarded as one of Poland’s most prestigious galleries, the Zachęta has a busy program of temporary exhibitions that frequently showcase some of the biggest names in domestic and international contemporary art. Pl. Małachowskiego 3, zacheta.art.pl warsawinsider.pl

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DO! Listings preschools

warsaw montessori family

Warsaw Montessori Schools

Accepting applications for our programs and locations: Infant & Toddler Tatrzańska 5a Badowska 19

American School of Warsaw American School of Warsaw provides a rich, meaningful and balanced educational experience through age-appropriate activities to students aged 3 to 5. For further information and/or to visit our school, contact:admissions@aswarsaw. org or 22 ul. Warszawska 202 (KonstancinJeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, aswarsaw.org

702 85 00.

The British Primary School of Wilanów A values-driven school offering a worldclass education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS). Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanów, BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9. To organize a visit, email: admissions@ bswilanow.org. ul. Hlonda 12, bsw.com.pl

Casa dei Bambini Badowska 19 Szkolna 16, Hornówek

Elementary Szwoleżerów 4

„Erdkinder” Middle School Tatrzańska 5a

Montessori High School

The British School Early Years Centre The British School provides EYFS classes from Pre-nursery (age 30 months) to Reception (5 years old). Children develop quickly and their Early Years practitioners aim to do all they can to help your child have the best possible start in life and become a lifelong learner. ul. Dąbrowskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646 7777 , thebritishschool.pl

2.5 to 6 years old, currently 45% of their admissions are international students.

The dedicated, IB-trained teachers deliver an innovative program (PYP) in English designed for modern world needs. The program offers a combination of Literacy, Maths, Social Studies, Science, Physical Education, Art, Music & Rhythmics, French and Polish classes. ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, canadian-school.pl

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations) Warsaw Montessori School Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have three green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin.

The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in earlychildhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob.

692 099 134, warsawmontessori.edu.pl

International Trilingual School of Warsaw Established in 1994, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fill-immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/saint-exupery.pl

Pytlasińskiego 13a Contact Office: 692 099 134 office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl

www.wmf.edu.pl

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The Canadian School of Warsaw Preschool Welcoming students from the ages of

The English Playhouse The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów. The pre-school fol-

DO! Listings lows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old. For more info or to arrange a tour call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email: jnowak@theenglishplayhouse.com ul. Pływiańska 14a, tel. 22 843 9370, tep.edu.pl

Międzynarodowa Szkoła Podstawowa Argonaut This elementary school is open for children of all nationalities and backgrounds. It places a focus on learning English as well as additional languages, and has an attractive list of available extracurricular activities. ul. Radarowa 6, tel. 504 509 504, argonaut. edu.pl

Maple Tree Montessori Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, mapletreemontessori.pl

Montessori Academy for International Children An English-speaking pre-school (16 months to 6 years of age) with two locations. The school’s policy is to comply with Montessori standards, using the Montessori Method in English. The school’s philosophy is based on the joy of learning, which comes from discovering and furthering the individual development of each child. ul.

Królewicza Jakuba 36 (Wilanów), ul. Sadowa 4 (Konstancin), Open 8:00-16:45, tel. 502 315 022, montessoriacademy.eu

Montessori Stepping Stones An intimate, international, English-speaking preschool located in Powsin that follows the Montessori philosophy which emphasizes the individuality of each child.

Children from the ages of 1.5-years-old to 6-years-old are welcome, with the school’s goals aimed at facilitating the individual development of the child, both physical and mental, through a system that is focused on the spontaneous use of the human intellect. ul. Przyczółkowa 140, tel. 728 939 582, montessoristeppingstones.pl

Trilingual Pre-school and Nursery “Three Languages” Center The only trilingual pre-school and nursery teaching English, Spanish and Polish through total language immersion. All educators are native speaker pre-school

You want the best for your child.

So do we.

With unique global opportunities and the highest quality learning approach, we will inspire your child to succeed.

www.thebritishschool.pl

Please email admissions@thebritishschool.pl or call (0048) 22 842 32 81 ext. 125 to arrange a tour

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DO! Listings teachers. The comprehensive curriculum follows American, Spanish and Polish curriculum standards. The pre-school was awarded European Language Label in 2012. ul. Karowa 14/16 lok 6 (3-6 year olds); ul. Cicha 5 lok 1 (1-2 year olds), tel. 517 872 682, 3languages.pl

that offers a PK-12 curriculum, including the IB Diploma Program in Grades 11 and 12. Students are inspired and challenged every day by experienced and dedicated teachers, who provide enriching learning opportunities in a world class facility. For further information contact: admissions@ aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00. ul.

schools

Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, aswarsaw.org

Akademeia High School Akademeia High School is an international high school in Warsaw, offering the chance to study for A Levels and iGCSEs. The school focuses on developing both students’ academic abilities and their artistic, athletic and leadership potential.

The British Primary School of Wilanów A values-driven school offering a world-class education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS). Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanów, BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9. To organize a visit, email: admissions@ bswilanow.org. ul. Hlonda 12, bsw.com.pl

ul. Ledóchowskiej 2, akademeia.edu.pl

American School of Warsaw ASW is a premier college-preparatory international school

The British School Premium international school established in 1992 by Nord Anglia Education. The curriculum is designed to provide the highest academic quality of education. They follow the English National Curriculum, adapted to the needs of their international student community: from Primary through to the Secondary Key Stages to the IGCSE examinations and a well-established International Baccalaureate (IB) Diploma Program. ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, thebritishschool.pl

ul. Hlonda 12, bsw.com.pl

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations) Warsaw Montessori School

AMERICAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW

Come and discover why every student loves learning at our school

Open House April 4th 10:00-13:00 www.aswarsaw.org/openhouse Email inquieries to: admissions@aswarsaw.org

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Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2019

DO! Listings Guided by trained specialists, students will be responsible for managing their household, operating small businesses, caring for local flora and fauna as well as domesticated animals, taking charge of the younger children and much more. “Adolescence Program” activities, integrated with academic studies, help students discover their inner strength to meet life’s real challenges. ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, warsawmontessori.edu.pl

Casa dei Bambini Warsaw Montessori School A leader in the field of Montessori education, well-trained teachers guide students to independent and successful learning with both English and bilingual classrooms provided. Located just steps from Lazienki Park, the school resides in vibrant surroundings near to museums, embassies and natural settings which provide students with learning outside the classroom. ul. Szwoleżerów 4 (grades 0-4), tel. 608 488 420; ul. Tatrzańska 5A (grades 5-8),

tel. 604 137 826; ul. Pytlasińskiego 13 (high school), tel. 787 095 835, wmf.edu.pl

The English Primary The English Primary is designed specifically for children in the primary education ages, just as children experience in England but in an international

Accepting applications for Nursery to Year 9 bsw.com.pl +48 221 110 062 ul. Hlonda 12, Warsaw admissions@bswilanow.org

monnet international school

PADDINGTON BEAR KINDERGARTEN

IB World School no 001483

on's ngt LUB i d Pad EN'S C EN LDR CHI OW OP N

Education for a better world

Belwederska 6a, Warsaw

www.maturamiedzynarodowa.pl/przedszkole warsawinsider.pl

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DO! Listings community. Pupils are taken through the key learning stages so that they can achieve to the best of their ability through a fun learning experience. The Core Curriculum subjects include English, Phonics, Science, Mathematics, French, PE and Swimming, Music, Personal, Social and Health Education. ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel.

784 037 808, tep.edu.pl

The Canadian School of Warsaw International Elementary and Middle School Located on two campuses in the Mokotów this is the only authorized IB School with PYP programs taught in English and Polish. French is taught as a third language. Offers a wide range of extra activities, a summer school, and employs a full time psychologist.

Provision is made for additional Polish and English support. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create the perfect learning environment. ul. Bełska 7, tel. 692 411 573 / 885 420 044, secretary@canadian-school.pl or secretary.olimpijska@canadian-school.pl

International School of Warsaw The International School of Warsaw offers education for children from 3 to 18-years old. ISW provides a holistic

education that combines a high quality international curriculum based on the International Baccalaureate with extra scholarly activities such as outdoor classes, robotics or STEAM. Lessons are conducted in English or French as main a language. Additionally, students can choose foreign language classes in Polish, Spanish, German, Chinese, Russian, or French. ISW is the only school in Poland accredited by the European Union. ul.

Mazowiecka 43, isw.edu.pl

ments the International Baccalaureate Program from kindergarten level all the way through to secondary school. The fully-qualified staff are committed to delivering only the highest standards of education. ul. Stępińska 13, tel. 22 852 06 08, maturamiedzynarodowa.pl

Warsaw Montessori School Focuses on the Montessori curriculum with an education based on the integration of conceptual learning and real-life experiences. ul. Szwoleżerów 4, tel. 22 841 3908, warsawmontessori.edu.pl

adult learning International Trilingual School of Warsaw Established in 1994, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fill-immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/saint-exupery.pl

Monnet International School Located in Mokotów, the Monnett is the only school in Poland that imple-

Cup of Polish Personalized Polish classes adapted to meet your needs. Also home/company visits and online courses. For a free 60-minute trial email: kontakt@cupofpolish.com. cupofpolish.com Klub Dialogu Using over ten years of experience, the leaning process becomes an adventure at Klub Dialogu. ul. Ordynacka 13/5, klubdialogu.pl Together School With locations in both Kraków and Warsaw, Together have seven years of experience teaching Polish and English for everyday life, business and general communication. Mariensztat 8

Hello Learn Polish with the best teachers in the biggest school i n Wa r s a w.

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DO! Listings HEALTH & BEAUTY gyms

Exuma Gym Warsaw’s latest luxury gym features equipment by Life Fitness and Hammer Strength, a wellness zone, private parking and stunning views of the National Stadium across the river. ul. Wioślarska 10,

spas & salons Clochee Natural, organic cosmetic brand that’s been dubbed a ‘pro-health project for your body and soul’. Using only certified ingredients, Clochee’s beauty products bring you closer to nature. Newlylaunched, their flagship store also houses a top-notch spa facilities. ul. Nowolipki 13,

It's Time to Learn Polish

spa.clochee.com/spa

exumagym.com

Holmes Place Premium Three ‘premium locations’, with the Hilton and Regent branches housing a 25-meter pool. Sauna and steam room facilities are available in all all three, as are a varied timetable of classes plus personal training. ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel), ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), holmesplace.pl

Creamy Creamy Creative Cosmetics offering a wide range of cosmetics which are based mainly on the deeply nourishing Haitian Moringa Oil. Created by Zofia PinchinatWitucka, a Haitian-Pole whose life goal has been to bring the two countries closer, Creamy’s cosmetics are vegan and cruelty-free and do not contain any synthetic dyes nor fragrances, petroleum

Polish for Foreigners kontakt@cupofpolish.com cupofpolish.com tel. +48 508 700 508

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DO! Listings components, sulphates or silicones.

Creamy SPA offers original Haitian facial massage based on Creamy’s vegan cosmetics. ul. Chmielna 6 (Warsaw),

down on an inflatable mattress. ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 646, hangar646.pl

creamy.pl

ouch!

DEPILACJA WOSKIEM

Ouch!

Experts in waxing, Ouch! aim their offer at ‘busy women looking for express treatments with lasting effects who, at the same time, appreciate a sense of intimacy’. ul. Belwederska 32, ouch.pl

Stacja Grawitacja Set over 3,200 sq/m of space, this indoor trampoline extravaganza sends visitors bouncing down ‘ninja obstacle courses’, sky slamming basketball hoops and jumping around engaged in dodgeball shenanigans. ul. Bohaterów Września 12, stacjagrawitacja.pl

FASHION

PARDON MY FRENCH

manicure pedicure

Pardon My French Manicure and pedicure treatments with high quality lacquers and an awareness of global trends: if you need an endorsement, Paul McCartney visited when he was in Poland! ul. Belwederska 32; Bonifraterska 8; ul.

Mokotowska 56, ul. Wilcza 3 pardonmyfrench.pl

sport

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moliera2.com

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Brands: Beach Bunny, Buscemi, Canada Goose, Casadei, Christian Louboutin Men, Dsquared2, Fay, Gianvito Rossi, Hogan, Kenzo, Moncler, Mr & Mrs Italy, OTS, Ralph Lauren, Tod’s, Tom Ford, Tory Burch, Valentino, Yves Salomon. Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, plactrzechkrzyzy.com

Lui Store Elegant female fashion store with brands including Attico, Rixo London, 3.1 Philip Lim, Les Coyottes de Paris, Jonathan Simkhai, as well as lesser-known names making their first in-roads into the world of high fashion. ul. Mokotowska 26, lui-store. com

Hangar 646 Hangar 646 touts 50 interlinked trampolines, a ping pong zone, ball pools and even a snowboard slide where visitors hurtle down a ramp before splashing

Vauthier, Aquazzura, Balmain, Beach Bunny, Burberry, Buscemi, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Cult Gaia, Francesco Russo, Gianvito Rossi, Golden Goose, Herve Leger, Isabel Marant, Kenzo, Maison Michel, Marc Jacobs, Manolo Blahnik, Moncler, OneTeaspoon, Self-Portrait, Tod’s, Tory Burch, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon, Zimmermann. ul. Moliera 2,

Moliera 2 Boutique Brands: Alexnadre Birman, Alexandre

Ptasia 6 A unique ladies concept store showcasing the works of both emerging and established independent Polish fashion labels such as Eva Grygo, Confashion, Horror! Horror!, Kasia Miciak and Polanka. ul. Ptasia 6, ptasia6.pl

home & design DecoDialogue Working with both large manufacturers and smaller European design studios,

DO! Listings DecoDialogue present a carefully sourced collection of furniture, textiles glassware and ceramics inside a beautifully outfitted space brimming with both statement pieces and more discreet little luxuries by the likes of Louis Poulsen, Lumio, Łyko, Klippan and Ton. ul. Kopernika 8/18, decodialogue.pl

malls & department stores Arkadia Not many Polish malls do it better. Stores inc. Mango, Lacoste, Guess, Hilfiger and Peek & Cloppenburg. Al. Jana Pawła II 82, arkadia.com.pl

Future Antiques These stylish, mid-century pieces have been refreshed using artisanal techniques to return items to their fullest aesthetic potential. Though much of the furniture is sourced from France, Italy and the Czech Republic, it’s the Danish bits and pieces that really stand out. ul. Poznańska 3/14,

Galeria Mokotów Stores inc. Calvin Klein, Hollister, Hugo Boss, , Royal Collection and Timberland. ul.

Wołoska 12, galeriamokotow.com.pl

Porcelanowa Award-winning, contemporary Polish porcelain produced by cult, internationally recognized brands such as Aoomi, ENDE ceramics and Fenek. ul. Kredytowa 2,

Galeria Północna Białołęka’s first major shopping center includes Poland’s first outpost of Hamley’s, as well as stores such as Forever 21, Lagerfeld and Guess. Part of the ‘fourth generation of shopping centers’, add-ons include a rooftop garden and some of the best kid’s facilities on Poland’s retail map. ul. Światowida 17,

porcelanowa.com

galeriapolnocna.pl

futureantiques.eu

Klif House of Fashion Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has a line-up of top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko. ul.

Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl

Plac Unii One of Warsaw’s latest mall counts Armani Jeans, Liu-Jo and Pandora amongst its upmarket tenants. ul.

Puławska 2, placunii.pl

Vitkac Poland’s first luxury department store gathers the world’s top designers under one roof, with brands including Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton, Stella McCartney, Stone Island and Rick Owens. Vitkac, ul.

Bracka 9, likusconceptstore.pl

Złote Tarasy Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Jatomi Health and Fitness Club. ul. Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl

EXCLUSIVELY AT

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DO! Listings accommodation 5-Star Hotels

Indigo

MaMaison Residence Diana

ul. Smolna 40, tel. 22 418 89 00, indigowarsaw.com

ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 9100, mamaison.com/diana

InterContinental

Sofitel Warsaw Victoria

ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, warsaw.intercontinental. com

ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8011, sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com

Between Us Bed & Breakfast Westin

Bellotto ul. Senatorska 13/15, tel. 22 829 6444, hotelbellotto.pl

Mamaison Le Régina Hotel Warsaw ul. Kościelna 12, tel. 22 531 6000, mamaison.com

B&B

Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, westin.pl

ul. Bracka 20, tel. 22 8285417 (from 10 a.m. to 11p.m.), between-us.eu

Boutique B&B

4-Star Hotels

ul. Smolna 14/6, tel. 22 829 4800, bedandbreakfast.pl

Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 6306, warsawmarriott.com

Airport Hotel Okęcie

Regent Warsaw Hotel

Hampton by Hilton

ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, reservations@regentwarsaw.com, regent-warsaw.com

ul. Wspólna 72, tel. 22 317 2700, hamptoninn3.hilton.com

relocation companies

Marriott Bristol Hotel ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1000, hotelbristolwarsaw.pl

H15 Boutique ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 553 8700, info@ h15ab.com, h15ab.com

ul. 17-ego Stycznia 24, tel. 22 456 8000, airporthotel.com.pl

AGS Warsaw Radisson Blu Sobieski

Sheraton ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6100, sheraton.pl

pl. Zawiszy 1, tel. 22 579 1000, sobieski.com.pl

CorstJens Worldwide Movers Mecure Warszawa Centrum

Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel Hilton Warsaw

ul. Julianowska 37, Piaseczno, agsmovers.com

ul. Złota 48/54, tel. 22 697 3999, mercure.com

ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555 / 800 44 11 482, hilton.com

ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888, radissonblu.com/hotelwarsaw

Hotel Warszawa

Raffles Europejski Warsaw

ul. Krucza 28, tel. 22 583 2100, mercure.com

Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9, tel.

22 470 03 00, warszawa.hotel. com.pl

ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, tel. 22 255 9590, raffles.com/ warsaw

Courtyard by Marriott Hotel (Airport)

Mercure Grand Warszawa

ul. Nowa 23, Stara Iwiczna, corstjens.com

Euro Move International Movers ul. Kineskopowa 1, euromove.pl

ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 0100, warszawacourtyard.pl

Novotel Warszawa Centrum

w W a r s a www.city-tour.com.pl

ul. Marszałkowska 94/98, tel.

22 596 0000, novotel.com, accorhotels.com

Yellow Double-Decker Bus

Invites you to experience a panoramic tour of tourist attractions of the capital of Poland, Warsaw, in a relaxing and comfortable way.

Polonia Palace Hotel

Traveling over the course of approximately 1,5 hour, a double-decker bus will take you past many beautiful and interesting places of Warsaw, such as its interesting districts, palaces and churches, monuments and museums, parks and historical cemeteries, as well as the Jewish historical sites.

Warsaw Plaza Hotel

A GPS 12 language audio-guide, will give explanations and accompany you to make your ride a more adventurous, exciting and an unforgettable one.

Excellent Hop on Hop off and one trip service operates every day all year round.

5% DISCOUNT with this ad

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+48 500 033 414

ul. Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 8160, moveonerelo.com

Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. 22 318 2800, poloniapalace.com

ul. Łączyny 5, tel. 885 886 100, warsawplazahotel.pl

apartments InterContinental

Line approved by municipal authorities.

www.city-tour.com.pl

Move One Relocations Also immigration assistance, fine art shipping, pet transport and consulting services. Check their website for more details.

ul. Emili Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, warsaw.intercontinental.com

Relo Planet International, domestic and office removals, corporate and individual relocations, fine art shipping, storage, insurance, as well as a full range of assistance services (immigration, etc.). ul. Batalinou Platerówek 3, reloplanet.com

DO! Guide

PA L AC E O F C U LT U R E AND SCIENCE

COMMUNISM

THE ESSENTIALS...

Cut through the chaff and time manage your visit as effectively as possible.

THE OLD…

The Old Town, raised from the rubble after WWII, is symbolic of this ‘phoenix city’, and fully deserving of its UNESCO listed status. The Royal Castle is a maze of fancy chambers and important paintings by the likes of Rembrandt and Canaletto, while the Museum of Warsaw offers a peerless peek into the complexities of Warsaw’s story.

Close by, check out the city that was at Park Miniatur, a beautiful exhibition displaying intricate scale models of the city’s pre-war architectural glories. To soak in the extravagances of Poland’s imperial years, take a walk around the immaculate Łazienki Park or, further out, visit Wilanów Palace: frequently nicknamed ‘the Polish Versailles’, the landscaped gardens are as unmissable as the former royal chambers. Finally, tap into the very essence of the Polish soul by visiting the new Vodka Museum on the right side of town.

WWII

Memories of WWII still hang heavy.

Learn about the 1944 Warsaw Uprising

at The Rising Museum: it’s deservedly rated as among the most important cultural institutions in the country.

Lesser known, the Old Town’s ‘Heritage Centre’ documents the destruction of the city, while three separate museums, Pawiak, Szucha and Katyń, cover equally somber chapters in Poland’s dark history. To get up close and personal to military hardware, visit the Polish Army Museum.

JEWISH WARSAW

Though largely flattened, the former Jewish Ghetto contains numerous memorials, among them the Umschlagplatz monument marking the spot where trains departed for the gas chambers of Treblinka. The one synagogue that survived (Twarda 6) is the center of local Jewish life, while the innovative Polin museum covers all aspects of this nation’s complex and often fraught Jewish history. The Jewish Historical Institute, meanwhile, frequently hosts thought-provoking exhibitions linked to the wartime suffering of the Jews.

A full tour of Stalin’s Palace of Culture is a must: the basements (protected from rodents by a team of feline guardians) are wild whilst the top-floor viewing terrace unimpeachable. Check the more ambient side to Communism in the Neon Museum and then head across town to check the new location of the Czar PRL Museum (czarprl.pl). A charmingly eccentric look at everyday life under Communism, this fantastic museum could yet become one of Warsaw’s quirkiest attractions. Equally weird, check out a former nuclear bunker by visiting the once top secret Obiekt Alfa (obiektalfa.pl). Lastly, take a look at what’s on at Dom Spotkań z Historią, a small exhibition space that specializes in quirky photo exhibits that explore Warsaw’s past – though subject matter varies to cover differing chapters of the city’s history, the PRL era receives the lion’s share of attention.

MODERN WARSAW

Wonder amid romping kids and whirring machines in the Copernicus Science Centre and after, visit the university library to explore the stunning rooftop garden – though the cosmic upper floor is off-limits till April, the lower section is also worth the detour. The Museum of Modern Art is a short walk away whilst across the water, the state-of-the-art National Stadium conducts regular tours and thrills both stadium nerds and football fans alike.

ART

Serious art lovers flock to the National Museum for its determined presentation of art through the ages – don’t miss the brilliantly retro Gallery of Polish Design. The Zachęta, the Modern Art Museum and CSW are more alternative with captivating exhibitions that excite non-conformists.

That said, some of the city’s best art is found on its walls: Praga and Muranów are both especially well-known for their large format wall murals. warsawinsider.pl

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last impression

THREE MINUTES WITH…

Author, gonzo journalist and musician William Roderick Richardson.

The mayor’s called you promising you an office in the public or historical building of your choice. Where is it…

The Palace of Culture and Science would be my first choice.

It provides the best view in Warsaw (because from there, as the old joke goes, you can’t see it). The walls will be decorated with Palace Of Culture photos and a scale size replica of King Kong climbing the façade.

Hunter S. Thompson has been raised from the dead and is on his way to Warsaw – where are you taking him, and why?

Hunter and I liberate my friend’s Bentley. We fill the trunk with two bags of grass, seventy-five pellets of mescaline, five sheets of high-powered blotter acid, a salt shaker half full of cocaine, and a whole galaxy of multi-colored uppers, downers, screamers, laughers and also a quart of tequila, a quart of rum, a case of Perla, a pint of raw ether and two dozen amyls. Who cares where we go after that? We’ll probably fly immediately to Las Vegas.

Warsaw’s taken on human form for the day: what’s it wearing and whose it with?

It’s got to be wearing its birthday suit. I always liked this city in the raw with its pockmarked face that only a mother could love. It’s got Atlanta on its arm. This pair knows how to burn the town down, rise gloriously from the ashes, and then conceive a skyline of gleaming spires.

You’re heading back in time with Marty McFly: which year are you visiting, what you’re bringing with you.

And what the hell are you going to do there?

I’m heading back to September 1, 1939 with the Terminator to go medieval on The Third Reich’s ass.

An art house film is being made about your life in Warsaw. How does it open…

SHUTTERSTOCK

I’m speeding through the Naked City past the Palace of Culture at midnight (in a Bentley with Hunter S Thompson) on our way to meet the Terminator at the portal so we can go back in time and save the city from destruction…

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