Warsaw Insider June 2020 #286

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AQUAZZURA ALEXANDRE BIRMAN BALMAIN BURBERRY BUSCEMI CASADEI CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN CULT GAIA FRANCESCO RUSSO GIANVITO ROSSI HERVE LEGER ISABEL MARANT KENZO LOVE SHACK FANCY MAISON MICHEL MANOLO BLAHNIK NANUSHKA ONETEASPOON SELF-PORTRAIT SOPHIA WEBSTER THE MARC JACOBS TOD’S TORY BURCH ZIMMERMANN

tel.: 228277099, www.Moliera2.com

editorial FEATURES

JUNE 2020

Editor-in-chief Alex Webber

8 Lockdown In Review 34 Looking Ahead: Upcoming Projects 36 Interview: Marcin Szałek 38 Rediscover Warsaw

insider@warsawinsider.pl Art Director Kevin Demaria kdemaria@valkea.com Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com

Contributors: Michał Miszkurka Ed Wight

EAT!

11 First Bite:

Jaskółka

Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com

12 Lockdown In Review:

Bloggers 13 Home Delivery:

Wsperiam Gastro

DRINK! 27 First Sips:

Lunapark 28 Roundup:

Craft Beer Stores

DISCOVER 51 Culture:

Chopin Online 52 Travel:

Łubinowe Wzgórze 53 Culture:

museums 62 Map 64 Looking Back: The Riverfront

T

hat’s it. Or is it? As Poland eases its way out of lockdown the sense of relief is tainted somewhat by the lingering feeling that this is but the opening chapter of a story that hasn’t ended. Quite what the future brings is anyone’s guess, but let’s face it, after the trials of the last couple of months anything that doesn’t involve shivering in a nuclear bunker should be welcomed for what it is. Unsurprisingly, the unique global situation continues to dominate our thoughts, which is why this issue we’ve used the opportunity to not just review the curious events of the past few weeks, but also look ahead by speaking to various industry insiders about what happens next. And as moods improve with both the general conditions and the weather, we’ve emerged from our hiding place to rediscover the city – feeling same, same but different, it’s nonetheless great to have her back much like we remembered. Till next time, adios!

ey Account Manager K Adam Fogler afogler@valkea.com Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com

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Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

on the cover Warsaw’s back in business! And that goes for our friends at Centrum Praskie Koneser – hip, hip, hooray!

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Warsaw Insider | JUNE 2020

VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies. All information ©2020 Warsaw Insider.

PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEX WEBBER

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People Of Koneser

Opened to rave reviews late last year, Koneser Grill has become a cornerstone of Centrum Praskie Koneser. Restaurateur Daniel Pawełek talks about his latest creation…

NEWLY OPENED!

In reaction to the current situation Koneser Grill are delighted to announce the launch of an onsite delicatessen selling a selection of aged meats, snacks, focaccia and other products that show the full range of chef Piotr Wójcik’s skills!

WI: For those that haven’t visited, what’s the concept behind the restaurant…

DP:

I wanted to return to the idea of ‘fire’, something

that we first explored with Butchery & Wine. Mostly, I was excited about basing a restaurant around ‘fire’ and this location was ideal for that because it has great extraction and other such facilities that you need for such a project.

For me, when I think of fire I think of people sitting around in the countryside and the good energy you feel when grilling sausages with your friends. In a way, I wanted a dining room that could capture that same kind of positivity.

Fire, of course, means meat!

Is the deli a temporary solution?

Having opened five other restaurants before Koneser Grill

I hope it’s here to stay. We want to appeal to local

I really wanted to get back to where it all began, meat, but

customers as well and the delicatessen is a good way to

to approach it from a different direction. We wanted to go

get to them. Of course, if ever I see that the shop isn’t

for longer seasoning, expand on nose-to-tail ideas, etc.

performing then I’ll have a rethink, but for the time being I’m really happy with the arrangement – it’s a difficult

All your other restaurants are on ‘the other side’. What

time for restaurants so we have to do whatever it takes to

inspired you to make the jump to Praga?

attract people.

Being honest, when I was approached five years ago to open here I took my time making the decision as the

How have things changed now that restrictions have been

complex was still basically a ruin with a hole in the ground!

relaxed?

What swayed me was when I saw what the developer

We’re fortunate to have a very loyal customer base. They

was doing in terms of the restoration and the attention

were fantastic. I was getting so many messages saying,

to detail that was being invested in places like Zoni and

“Hey Daniel, the moment you’re back open book me in for 8

the Vodka Museum. Wow. That was when I really began

p.m.!” That was so nice to hear. We didn’t go down the route

believing in the vision for Centrum Praskie Koneser.

of selling vouchers or anything like that, but we were very careful to make sure we stayed in touch with our customers

And that’s something that’s been affirmed since

and they responded brilliantly to that.

opening…

It’s a little different from my other locations in that it’s a

So it’s back to normal?

mixed-use project in a historic factory – but what they’ve

You can tell some guests are a little wary when they enter

done is incredible. Look at the Vodka Museum, I think

for the first time, but after a moment you can see them

when you look at its quality it’s in the same league as the

relaxing. Everyone has to make their own judgement when

Warsaw Rising Museum. Very importantly, they’ve brought

it comes to eating out, but personally I don’t think it’s

together interesting people with big ambitions and you

anymore dangerous than walking down the street. We’ve

can see that with the hotel, the various stores, and the

devoted a lot of time to hygiene procedures, and customers

presence of cult Warsaw places like Syreni Śpiew – there’s

should be assured that we’re doing everything we can from

a real reason to come here.

our end to maintain the highest standards.

What is Praga to you?

How do you see the year panning out for Koneser Grill?

It reminds me of Brooklyn or Brixton in that it hasn’t

I’ve always kept a crystal ball in my cupboard but it seems

always had a great reputation. But look at it now. You’ve

to have stopped working! Maybe everything will be fine,

got beautiful buildings that survived World War II but didn’t

maybe things will get worse before they get better. Who

survive what followed – but now, one by one, they’re being

knows. I think in that respect a little bit is in our hands, and

revitalized and looking better than ever. It’s proximity to

a little bit is out of our hands – we’re doing everything we

the city center is important, but I also love the uniqueness

can that’s in our hands. At the end of the day, people love

of Praga: the local slang, the street art, the market down

good food and that’s not going to change. And it’s good to

the road, and the little side streets where you can see all

remember that sunshine always follows the storm!

sorts of things! It’s interesting. It’s intriguing. The energy is good.

How did the restaurant respond to the lockdown?

We adjusted, and that meant transforming one of the VIP rooms into a delicatessen selling steaks, bone marrow, sausage rolls, cold cuts and those kind of things. Our head chef, Piotr Wójcik, isn’t just a great cook but also a very talented butcher.

Koneser Grill ul. Ząbkowska 29, konesergrill.pl

THE INSIDER’S FOOD & DRINK HEROES!

As the food and drink sector rebounds from the toughest months it has ever faced, the Insider invites you to join us in backing some of our favorite spots in town! We’ve organized the discounts, now all you need to do is turn up and use them!

#lovewarsawfood&drinks

Remember, the restaurant scene needs you!

one glass of wine or beer with one coupon Bibenda ul. Nowogrodzka 10 tel. 502 770 303 bibenda.pl

(offer valid for one coupon per meal until the end of June)

Consistently cited as one of Poland’s leading casual restaurants, Bibenda’s inventive international menu is built with love around the most seasonal of ingredients.

10% discount

with the discount code: warsawinsider

(only valid for online orders at gringobar.pl/zamow)

Gringo Bar ul. Odolańska 15 / tel. 22 848 95 23 (Mokotów) ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki) / tel. 786 266 336 (Środmiescie) ul. Dobra 53 / tel. 790 266 336 (Powiśle) gringobar.pl

(offer valid per transaction until the end of June) 6

Warsaw Insider | JUNE 2020

Created by hip hop star Bilon, find fresh ingredients utilized to produce Tex Mex burritos, quesadillas and nachos that always hit the spot!

10% discount

with the discount code: Warsaw Insider Kur & Wino ul. Andersa 21 tel. 570 580 180 fb.com/kurwino

(offer valid per transaction until the end of June)

A fiercely on-trend neighborhood restaurant, specialties of Kur & Wino include rotisserie chicken from Podlasie, guinea fowl from Wielkopolska as well as standalone vegan dishes and wines of the world.

with the discount code: Warsaw Insider Mokotowska 69 ul. Mokotowska 69 tel. 664 023 225 mokotowska69.com

(offer valid per transaction until the end of June)

Award-winning seafood and steaks as well as several classis Polish dishes served with a creative spin – no-one leave Mokotowska 69 disappointed!

#lovewarsawfood&drinks

10% discount

10% discount

with the discount code: Insider's Secret Mr. Oh Al. 3 Maja & Leona Kruczkowskiego (enter from under Poniatowski Bridge) tel. 571 264 262 mr-oh.com

(offer valid per transaction until the end of June)

Asian street food with a funky, modern twist as well as swoon-worthy cocktails that reflect the dynamic energy of this celebrated newcomer.

warsawinsider.pl

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APOCALYPSE THEN As restrictions ease and life resets to normal, the Insider looks back on what the lockdown meant for the capital city…

BY ALEX WEBBER

PHONE PHOTOS OPPOSITE PAGE BY KEVIN DEMARIA

I

t was a recent article in The Guardian that asked if it was “too soon to start wondering what we’ll remember of our great confinement,” but whilst complacency appears to now be the biggest threat we face in the ongoing battle against Covid-19, it’s an entirely welcome development that the fear that marked the first few days of the lockdown has been replaced, instead, with a cautious optimism for the future ahead. Maybe the world won’t end after all.

Blindsided by the sheer velocity with which the virus spread, the week beginning on March 9th saw us watch with a paralyzed sense of horror as events took their turn. For the Insider, we’d returned that Monday from researching a travel feature in Kraków (yep, you’ll notice that got canned pretty pronto), to find the capital teetering on the precipice of outright paranoia. For those of us with face masks, the social embarrassment of looking like an oddball by wearing one soon disappeared.

Played out in a nightmarish slow motion – as if watching a runaway train hurtling towards you – it was a week in which mounting anxiety was fomented by hourly news updates of a grim, dire nature. When, on Friday 13th, the government announced a closure of the borders, it was clear something big was afoot, and with pubs pulling their last pints on the stroke of midnight, even the most bullish of expats understood that s**t had got real.

That Saturday must count as possibly the most uncomfortable in our collective memory. Defined by its creeping sense of dread, it was as if a nuclear warning had been sounded. Perhaps, it would have been preferable if it had, for instead we were left dealing with an invisible enemy.

“So what do we do now,” seemed the common refrain.

Short on answers, we followed the rest of the world and picked the shelves clean of toilet paper and tinned goods – hands up who else now finds themselves sat in an apartment surrounded by cans of baked beans?

Yet after the initial shock subsided, Poles regrouped quickly – arguably already psychologically adjusted to such force majeure happenings, crushing doom was swapped for a more pragmatic way of thinking: the show must go on, etc. Surreal is what it was. For so long an underclass, food delivery boys found themselves elevated to the status of cowboy-style good guys, while our nurses and doctors were awarded overdue adulation for the work that they do: when, in April, landmarks such as the Palace of Culture were illuminated in blue to honor the efforts of frontline workers, it was a moment of simple beauty that touched the soul – in the words of one mural, we were reminded that “not all superheroes wear capes”.

It was a sentiment that applied to shopworkers, as well, and in a situation reminiscent of the PRL years it

was these hardy cashiers and shelf stackers that became the most reliable source of all the latest inside rumors.

And on the topic of shopping, whatever happened to paper money? With card payments de rigueur, using cash became a memory of the past, and with it the traditional demands to provide the right change.

On the retail front, this wasn’t the only habit to die a death – as social distancing took a grip, it was revealed that the natives did actually know how to form an orderly queue all along. Blessings indeed. Looking hairier by the day (haircuts, remember them?), Warsaw’s citizens were changing in front of our very eyes, and so too the city.

Once gridlocked streets emptied, smog subsided and nature seized its chance, a point underlined by the whole ‘Moose On The Loose’ drama that occurred in Park Skaryszewski. Could the planet really heal and become a better place? Definitely, we saw a new spirit emerge, one generously flagged by the random acts of kindness displayed towards both seniors and the less fortunate, and it was only the idiots that insisted on engaging in full-scale home repairs that acted as a reminder of more selfish times.

Blindsided by the sheer velocity with which the virus spread, the week beginning on March 9th saw us watch with a paralyzed sense of horror as events took their turn Indeed, home life was not without its challenges, but having binged on Netflix and takeaways we found ourselves reconnecting with old friends on Zoom while wallowing in tracksuits not sure of the day. Quarantined in our coops, social media showed its value as a force for good while kitchens became laboratories for ambitious experiments that usually involved bread. We got on and got by.

If first the city responded to the order to lockdown with confusion and alarm, then it adapted quickly to show once again the fortitude of its people. Emerging from it, we do so with a clarity and focus that we hope shan’t prove temporary. Let us have learned more than just how to wash our hands or stick a loaf in the oven. warsawinsider.pl

9

GURU REDEFINES

MODERN INDIAN CUISINE

Our focus from the start has been to create modern Indian dishes and drinks, served in a relaxed space. We combine local seasonal ingredients with the authentic flavors, aromas and spices of India and the orient.

Widok 8, Warszawa www.gururestauracja.pl facebook.com/gururestauracja TEL. 22 857 0604

First Bite

PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

FROM THE HEART

Apparently starting life as a cake café, Jaskółka’s story has been one of organic growth (literally). Now best known for their vegan menu, it’s become a standard bearer for eco-minded meals that give a platform for fresh, local produce to shine. Arrive early for bagels and Huveos Rancheros, or bowl in later for mains that number BBQ Tofu Burgers with Bourbon or a fiery Tom Yum soup.

Sporting a relaxed vibe, decorative ceramics, colorful hexagonal floor tiles and soothing white finishes, chilling out becomes even easier over a cinnamon cider or a Spanish bio wine. Essential to the social function of Pl. Wilsona, Żoliborz would be poorer without a check-in such as this. Jaskółka Pl. Wilsona 4

warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! talking points

For details, see: wspieramgastro.warszawa.pl

DELIVERANCE!

E N I O C H Ł A P O W S K I - M YJA K

TOMASZ CZUDOWSKI

WI: What was the idea behind Wsperiam Gastro?

ECM: We wanted to save our businesses. Clearly, the more there are of you, the better chance you have of achieving a common goal. We realized that the commissions we were paying the big platforms to deliver our food were way too high – when you’re paying nearly 40% in commission on each delivery you question the point of continuing – so instead we negotiated a small monthly fee with a tech

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Warsaw Insider | JUNE 2020

provider and that enabled us to offer commission-free deliveries. Among other benefits, the creation of this platform allowed several restaurants that didn’t offer deliveries to begin doing so right away (something that was, in some cases, taking weeks with other platforms because of the surge they experienced in sign-ups), while also minimizing employee downtime after the mandatory closure of restaurants and building customer awareness as to the advantages of ordering direct.

The restaurants you feature on the platform are pretty much all on-edge, cool, etc. Is that a coincidence or a criteria?

Thanks for the compliment! It’s basically a happy accident that can be explained by the fact that the restaurants that were included from the start were all friends of ours or places that we liked personally – obviously, we have high standards!

You rolled-out the project pretty fast, yeah?

I called Tomek from Ale Wino on Tuesday to see if he had made an ‘epidemic plan’ and within three days all the restaurants were closed down!

Everything happened so quickly that we weren’t prepared at all. That said, we moved fast. The first version of the platform went live in five days which was possible because of the existing technology we had at our disposal.

With revenues plummeting so quickly we had no choice but to speed up our efforts and launch ASAP.

Why the hell haven’t we had a platform like this before!?

Because we haven’t dealt with a pandemic before! Overnight revenues dropped 80% whilst fixed costs remained the same so it was imperative to find a new solution.

When it comes to raw figures, how much cash have you saved restaurants via the platform?

In Warsaw alone, within four weeks of launching we recorded 4,000 orders with a total value of almost zł.

400,000. That saved restaurants over zł. 120,000.

Is home delivery the future?

It’s hard to predict how the world will change with the pandemic, let alone consumer habits, but for sure more people will be staying at home in the short-term and that means they’ll be ordering deliveries. I hope that’s not a glimpse of the future though because so many restaurants are all about the experience. Yeah, you can get a great dinner from us or Ale Wino, but you won’t find the same ambience in a box!

What do you see happening in the short-term?

I think we all hoped that when the lockdown lifted everyone would rush back into the bars and restaurants but we can already see that’s not happened and it will take longer for things to return to normal. Maybe we’ll see an increase in traffic when everyone finally has their hair cut!?

What does it mean for the customer?

We’re going to see increased competition so guests can look forward to better quality. On the other hand, however, rising food prices are going to make it difficult for restaurants to present an attractive offer whilst maintaining their necessary margins.

What lessons have you learned?

To be creative. The situation sucks, but we’re all in the same boat. Suddenly the rules have changed and we have to work out new ways to generate revenue.

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS PAGE COURTESY OF WSPERIAM GASTRO. OPPOSITE FROM LEFT, COURTESY OF MARTA GLINKA AND FEST

Launched by Enio Chłapowski-Myjak of Mr. Oh and Tomasz Czudowski of Ale Wino, a new home delivery platform by the name of Wsperiam Gastro has boosted dozens of restaurants by bringing them together and cutting out the nosebleed commissions charged by the industry’s big guns…

IN REVIEW: FOODIES IN LOCKDOWN! With restaurants back open for business, we look back and ahead at what the lockdown meant for two Warsaw foodies…

MARTA GLINKA

JOANNA MRÓZ

• To name a few restaurants, I found myself missing Bibenda, Bez Gwiazdek, Polana Smaków, Ale Wino, Fest Port: places where it’s about not just the food but the people and the place. I was still ordering deliveries from many of those, so it was the atmosphere I really missed.

• Of course I was ordering deliveries as I wanted to support my favorite places: Bibenda were one of the big hits for me, and I loved their deli supplies such as the ribs and sausages. Simpler and more nostalgic, Schabowy did a great job of delivering not just the best schabowy in Warsaw, but also weekly specials despite the challenges of the situation.

Other places that never failed to lift me included Supperlardo, Ale Wino, Polana Smaków, Bangkok Soi and Dos Tacos.

• I haven’t been out yet; my plan is to wait until the weather gets warmer so I can sit outside without a big jacket. Aside from the restaurants already mentioned, I can’t wait to visit new places, but first and foremost my priority will be to show my support for the ones I truly love.

People still don’t feel entirely safe eating out so I foresee more online ordering as well as restaurants extending their deli specialties. The more creative a restaurant is in offering other things, the more chance it will survive, so offering things like family or party sets, stocks and sauces and regularly changing high-quality ingredients are a good way to increase loyalty. Unfortunately, I see many going to the wall but that will mean there’ll be lots of opportunities for those brave enough to enter the market - a crisis is the perfect field for creativity and I hope we’ll see new ideas and concepts on the market. Importantly though, restaurants have to adapt to the changing expectations of the customer.

• I’d count myself a regular at Mięsny, Schabowy Warszawska, Krem, Prosciutteria, Szóstka, Fest Port Czerniakowski, Rozbrat 20, Bez Gwiazdek and Nolita, so I missed them all desperately. I’m a part of their community, and the chefs or owners are quite often friends. Not seeing them was like being torn from your family. I had my birthday in March and it was an awful feeling not being able to celebrate it in a restaurant.

• I’ve already made my first reservation for Nolita: I was worried for them as they didn’t offer any delivery service and basically closed down completely for two months. I’m delighted they’re back. I’m also counting the days to my next visit to Szóstka as I really miss Darek Baranski’s cuisine. Of course, I also need to check Bez Gwiazdek’s new menu. The March one was the only monthly menu I’ve missed from the 30 or so they’ve served since opening!

• I’m thinking we’ll see fewer restaurants in future but that they’ll represent the best: survival of the fittest. We’ll also see simpler food as basic cost considerations won’t allow for 18 elements to appear on a plate. It’s possible we’ll also see more micro places owned and managed by chefs offering one ‘plancha’ but plenty of creative ideas.

• I’m hoping for the best but am under no illusion this is a very difficult time for the industry. By autumn I think we’ll see more closures and bankruptcies. If someone hasn’t been successful up until now, they should close. It’s my hope that simple, delicious food will win out, furthermore, I think that if owners can create a community then they can stand to win. Loyal customers are going to save them: with fewer ‘outside’ visitors, local people now matter the most.

Restaurantica.pl and professional food trend consultant

Froblog.pl and food writer

warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! roundup

A BAKER’S DOZEN!

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

What did the lockdown do? Turned us into a nation (nay, make that an entire planet!), of budding bakers. But as the country returns to some semblance of normal, we look at the best independent bakeries and bakers that belong several leagues above anything we all might have managed‌

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Warsaw Insider | JUNE 2020

Aromat

Various loctations, fb.com/piekarnia.aromat “Good bread needs good flour,” says Mathieu, one half of the mother / son duo that founded Aromat back in 2014.

Sourcing theirs from a small French mill, the attention to detail has not been lost even as Aromat have blossomed to cover numerous addresses around Warsaw. And aside from bread, also anticipate a choice of coffee and pastries – the lemon eclairs deserve their own fan club.

Cała w Mące

fb.com/calawmace “My bread is a reflection of my experiences,” says Monika Walecka, “every loaf tells its own story and includes elements from others that have either inspired or taught me – each one is like having baby with your baker friends!”

Milling the flour herself then baking the bread with whole grain flour so that the most nutritious parts don’t get sifted, the results are white, fluffy breads as well as loaves that use ancient grains such as spelt, emmer or einkorn. Have no doubt, Walecka’s Cała w Mące brand is of a different class.

Chlebodawca

chlebodawca.com.pl “Real bread, no crap.” So goes the motto of Chlebodawca, a small-scale project run by a self-taught baker that scoured the history books for rye bread recipes. Delivering to your door, Chlebodawca also conduct workshops, baking courses and suchlike.

Charlotte

Various locations, fb.com/bistrocharlotte There’s just no way you won’t already be acquainted with Charlotte. A game-changer when they launched, their Parisian-inspired concept has since been widely mimicked across not just the city but also Poland as a whole. Eschewing artificial nasties, the bread – baked on-site at each location – is consistently reliable in its overall quality.

Mąka i Wodą

ul. Chmielna 13A While Mąka i Woda is primarily known for knocking out Warsaw’s favorite pizza, this joint venture of neighboring restaurants doesn’t muck about when it comes to sourcing high-end ingredients. That much is made clear by their bread, baked on-site using hand-ground flour and certified organic ingredients.

Marukyan

Various locations, inc. Hala Mirowska Georgian bakeries have flourished in Warsaw, and leading by example are Marukyan, a friendly, chaotic spot whose signature stroke are big, puffy puri baked in a round, red, tondir oven.

MOXO

ul. Hlonda 10, fb.com/Moxobakery MOXO’s uncompromising approach places an emphasis on

the importance of natural, high-quality ingredients. In addition to breads, buns, baguettes and rolls find also brioches, croissants and other goodies prepared, say the owners, using recipes snatched from the yellowing, faded notebooks of their grandmothers and aunts. Though founded in 2018, their armful of accolades says much for their soaring reputation and the skills of co-owner Michał Molenda, himself a former pupil of the acclaimed Le Cordon Bleu.

Piwoński

Various locations, fb.com/PiekarniaPiwonski Baking for over eighty years, this family chain has maintained its traditions to produce often adventurous loaves featuring such additions as gingerbread, cranberries, plum, onion and black cumin (not all together!). Veering from habit, this enterprise has also embraced Spanish baking techniques to introduce empanadillas, ensaimada and other Hispanic treats to their portfolio.

Pochlebnie

ul. Solec 81B, fb.com/pochlebnie Affirming Powiśle’s status as a baking powerhouse is Pochlebnie, a small-scale bakery that requires advance orders. The fuss is well warranted, especially when it comes to more non-standard offers such as sourdough croissants, rhubarb buns and various other bits and pieces that go beyond the ordinary in both name and taste.

Rano

ul. Stalowa 47, fb.com/ranopiekarnia Few if any bakeries have conquered hearts as quickly as Rano. Set on upcoming Stalowa street, the number of top restaurants that are using this place to source their bread is indicative of their unquestioned quality. Looking – and smelling – exactly as you’d imagine an artisanal bakery to do so, find their offer given an extra boost by indulgences such as brioches and scones.

Rozbrat 20

ul. Rozbrat 20, fb.com/rozbrat20restaurant In more normal times you’d find us raving about Rozbrat as one of our favorite eateries in the country – so damn right we’re glad to welcome them back after the lockdown. But who knew that chef Bartosz Szymczak was also a master baker. This much we discovered during the epidemic when Rozbrat 20 adapted to the times by working as a bakery instead. Given the uncertainty of the times, we’re expecting that role to continue even now its resumed its bread and butter function as a restaurant.

SAM

Various locations, sam.info.pl Born during the early days of the food revolution, SAM bread utilizes flour from a small mill in Wyszogrod and favors traditional, long fermentation processes – lacking additives and preservatives, find also a variety of breads made with various seeds, nuts and dried fruits. It’s said that the co-owner honed her skills at a bread-making course chaired by Raymond Blanc and that’d certainly explain a lot. warsawinsider.pl

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#rallyforourrestaurants

By in large, you can expect to pay between zł. 20-35 for starters, and zł. 35-70 for mains. Expect those prices to double in the case of the city’s fine dining venues.

Those wishing to cut costs should seek out the weekday business lunch deals now offered by most restaurants. When tipping, 10-20% is considered polite though be aware of automatic service charges in some venues. american 16 chinese 16 comfort food 16 food halls & happenings 18 french 18 georgian 18 greek & turkish 18 indian 19 international 20 italian 21 japanese 22 korean 22 latin & spanish 22 mexican 22 middle eastern 23 polish 24 steak houses 25 thai 26 vegan 26 vietnamese 26

american Champions Sports Bar The heavy décor brings to mind the trans-Atlantic sports bars of the 90s, with glinting trophies, whirring machines, clacking pool tables and a cacophony of commentaries. Hell, there’s even a boxing ring. But you can’t criticize their consistency: the food is always on-point

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while the generous floor plan makes it suitable for unwieldy groups of large and loud lads. (D5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), champions.pl Koko & Roy Spotlighting ‘New American Cuisine’, the thrust here is on comfort food, albeit several steps beyond what you’d rustle up at home: the Odds & Ends (deep fried pigs tails and chicken hearts tumbled into a big bowl and served with pickled red onions and a lash of sriracha aioli) are bold, unexpected and utterly delicious.

Fun, innovative and pleasingly casual, it’s a bit like visiting friends who really know how to cook. Take it all in inside a brill interior that’s all Sputnik lights, intriguing artwork and mustard-toned finishes. (D5) ul. Wilcza 43, kokoandroywarsaw.com

chinese

Pańska 85 Ample in size, the interiors speak of money well spent. This is especially true because despite the luxury trimmings Pańska looks good without ever losing its dignity. With their kitchen staff headhunted from across China, the food sets a standard that has yet to be seen in any Chinese restaurant in Warsaw: there’s delicate salmon rolls wrapped in mango; dim sum that are pouches of pure goodness; and Sichuan-style pork that’s a blaze of sizzle and spice. The Beijing Duck, carved and served table-side, is the highlight. (B4) ul. Pańska 85, panska85.com Regina Bar Taking their inspiration from New York’s Little Italy and Chinatown, the menu at Regina is the very definition of ethnic comfort food: won-ton dumplings, ribs in sticky hoisin sauce and the best-selling General Tso chicken – famed for its healing properties, it’s one of the best hangover remedies around. On the Italian front, leopard-spotted pizzas land are presented with wheel-bladed knives in a kooky, retro interior featuring a dangling chandelier and the tallest mirror in

Poland (possibly). (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, fb.com/Reginabar

comfort food Kura Pairing fried chicken with double-fried chunky chips, think of this budget stop as an artisanal take on KFC for the posthipster generation. And best of all, check their homemade sauces: from the tart and spicy Challenger No. 3, to the tangy Mango-BBQ option, these are sauces that open the gateway to addiction. The ultimate definition of comfort food, look on Kura as one of the city’s best examples of street food culture gone right. (B2) ul.

Nowolipki 15, restauracjakura.pl Kur & Wino It’s hard to fault a concept when it’s executed this well. In this case, that means chicken from Podlasie and guineafowl from Wielkopolska cooked rotisserie-style and then served with an array of homemade sauces. And then there’s the sandwiches, beautiful things served on focaccia and smeared with honey mustard. Sure, you could call it street food, but doing so underestimates the level of love awarded to the product.

That you’ll be enjoying it in a cool, funky backdrop makes it all the better: outside, sit amid crates filled with palms, inside, among funky-style furnishings that pair well with the PRL look of this highceilinged chamber. (C1) ul. Andersa 21, fb.com/kurwino Pogromcy Meatów Dude food doesn’t get much better.

Specializing in slow-cooked meats, find artisan buns stuffed with ribs, beef tongue, pastrami and the like before being given extra oomph with locally grown greens, homemade kimchi or house pickles. A savage, primal pleasure of dripping sauce and juicy meat, the homespun quality of Pogromcy Meatów catapults it above the competition. (E6) ul.

Koszykowa 1 Przyjemność It’s a squeeze alright, with all manner of jiggling and jostling needed before taking your position amid a design that feels cool and millennial: plants, wire mesh

Delivering Warsaw's Best To You To make an order call tel.+48 22 651 9003 or order online at: www.roomservice.pl

#rallyforourrestaurants panels and a bit of funky neon. Food, and Californian pizza is the order of day, with wacky choices including Gringo Chicken, a wondrous creation that features dollops of sour cream and guacamole thwacked onto heaps of achiote chicken, jalapeno, coriander and red onion. It sounds daft, but it’s become our fave pizza of the year – and the spritzers are damn good as well. (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 68/70, fb.com/pizzawarszawska Zkurczybyk Roll in for beautifully juicy chicken inside a crispy, crunchy coat smothered and slathered in an array of sauces ranging from mango-chilli to classic hot; savagely messy, these are things of near profound, holy beauty. Not in the mood for wings?

No problem. Instead, wrap your jaw around buttery, meaty sandwiches the size of a breeze block. And food aside, the hip hop / steam punk vibe (corrugated iron sheets, stools with bicycle pedals for foot rests, ammo boxes, and turntables emblazoned with music heroes), jives well with an atmosphere that’s high on banter and bravado. ul. Poznańska 7

food halls Hala Gwardii Set within a charmingly distressed piece of Tsarist-era brickwork, it’s not just the depth of the offer that has kept crowd figures high, but the quality as well.

Standouts in this food hall are too numerous to mention, but hat tips go towards the Gorilla coffee point; the meaty treats of Beef’n’Roll; the delicious dumplings at I Love Pierogi; and the English-style spuds served by Pieczone Ziemniaki. Last but not least, no-one in Poland scoops better ice cream than the team at Ice Pot. (C3) Pl. Mirowska 2, halagwardii.pl Hala Koszyki Nirvana for the aspirational classes, careful surgery has preserved the heritage of this early 20th century marketplace and juxtaposed it against the urban tapestry of modern Warsaw.

Appealing to everyone from foodies and families to Instagram scenesters, its success has sparked a nationwide wave of doubles and duplicates. But despite their best efforts, none come close to feeling

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quite so global. Walking around Koszyki, find all from Korean noodles, Spanish tapas, Mexican burritos, Greek kebabs and so much more. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63, koszyki.com Lunapark Put simply, the most imaginative F&B concept that Warsaw’s ever seen. Set in an abandoned outdoor leisure complex running to the flank of a busy highway, dip down a concrete stairwell to discover a wild world of food stalls, games, drinks and weirdness. For all the prowling stilt walkers and street performers, the key attraction is the Mini Market, a superb line-up of ethnic food stalls. The African street food by Botswanan celebrity chef Joseph Seeletso is the Insider’s highlight.

(G4) ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 407, fb.com/ lunaparknadwisla Postępu 5 Christened Mordor by the despairing employees who head there each working day, the area around Domaniewska doesn’t have the best public image. though, there isn’t just hope, but also a solution to realign the spirit of this quarter. Call it Postępu 5, a collection of street vendors housed in a line of former garages and storage units. Highlights inc.

Blin (for Russian-style pancakes), Hotto Doggu (Japanese hot dogs), and Roger That Foods, a close quarters burger stop immediately identifiable by the monster smoker set outside. ul. Postępu 5, postepu5.pl

french

L’Arc Looking elegant with its black/white floors and subtle decorations bills at L’Arc can become big number affairs – especially if you hanker for seafood. Pick from numerous types of oysters or delve into the fish tank for the lobster of your choosing. The catchment area extends beyond the borders of Mokotów, not just because of their ‘fresh from France’ seafood, but because of classic dishes such as Mulard duck and Burgundy snails.

(E8) ul. Puławska 16, larc.pl

georgian Chmeli Suneli The ‘modern-folk’ interior blends clean colors and exposed brickwork with slanted timber shelving and bright caricatures of Georgian gents: it looks just fab. Then there’s the food: served in clay pots and on thick, wooden boards, the nosh is wholehearted and ideal for early autumn and those long months ahead.

The experience peaks with the presentation of the grilled, skewered shashliks. ul. Wilcza 26 Rioni Warsaw’s foodies like talking of ‘cursed locations’, and they don’t get more hexed than Mokotowska 17. But despite its history of failed ventures, Rioni feel better placed than most to break the jinx. Set in a curving brick room lit by dangling overhead bulbs, join a young-ish crowd for juicy Georgian dumplings oozing with meat and herbs, hearty soups and big, doughy wheels of cheese-filled chaczapuri. ul. Mokotowska 17 (enter from Pl. Zbawiciela) Rusiko To the uninitiated, Georgian food is representative of the heart, spirit and passion of its people; it’s a cuisine that values the concept of the feast: wine, laughter and song find themselves elevated to roles of primary importance. A food of life, spice and whole-hearted tastes, consider Rusiko as the best ambassador there is for this surprisingly diverse kitchen, and award-winning chef Davit Turkestanishvili the string-pulling master. There’s nowhere else in Poland that does Georgian better.

Al. Ujazdowskie 22

greek & turkish Mr. Greek Souvlaki Enticing with its cute, pocket-size dimensions, array of pot plants and navy blue colors, Mr. Greek bubbles with homespun warmth. The menu is a simple work but the quality is outstanding: fluffy pitas wrapped around freshly grilled chicken; skewers of pork; piping hot pots of moussaka; and delicious meatball-style dishes that are devoured within moments.

Warsaw has enjoyed good Greek food

#rallyforourrestaurants before, but now it can offer something even better. A place of authentic hospitality and fabulous food, that this is a labor of love is manifestly obvious from the moment one enters. ul. Londyńska 16 Santorini Santorini looks scuffed and tired but there’s a bonhomie present that instantly engages. The kitchen attaches no value to things like presentation, preferring instead to simply treat diners to piles of grilled and skewered food that consistently tastes right – enjoying it is easy. ul. Egipska 7, kregliccy.pl/santorini

indian Bollywood Lounge Known for their raucous dusk-till-dawn parties, there is another less hedonistic roll filled by Bollywood: that of a restaurant. The menu is an uncomplicated,

classic affair that’s an ideal primer for the party ahead. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, bollywoodlounge.pl Bombaj Masala Not just the best looking of Warsaw’s Indian restaurants, Bombaj Masala also has some of the best cooking. With so many restaurants reliant on one ‘master pot’ for their curry, this classy venue feels unique in delivering a variety of rich, intense tastes. The vindaloo is a special standout, with big, punchy flavors that leave you tingling long after you leave. Committed fans should keep in mind their Praga outpost in the Koneser complex, reputed to serve the only ‘Indian tapas’ in the country – we’ll visit soon. (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, bombajmasala.pl Bombaj Masala Praga Looks-wise it’s a feast for the eyes with 1,760 copper pipes hanging from the ceiling to generate a warming glow that

mixes naturally with the brick finishes and spirited works of art. Differing from their mothership on JPII, the menu here involves street food-style tapas such as flat-fried Kachori dumplings and crispy cauliflower pakoras to outstanding tandoori dishes like marinated zander with garlic chili sauce. And when you want it hot, the Kerala lamb curry comes with the capacity to challenge all the senses as it sends you into sniffles of unbridled joy.

(G1) ul. Ząbkowska 29 (Centrum Praskie Koneser), bombajmasala.pl/praga

Guru Moving into the space vacated by the lamentable BrewDog pub, Guru joins the city’s (very) shortlist of higher end Indians. The menu is a union of local, seasonal ingredients (organic this, farmyard that) and imported spices,

Flavours of Warsaw - traditional Polish cuisine with a distinctive modern touch. Everything is made from fresh seasonal ingredients.

Enjoy, among many others, roasted pumpkin steak with quinoa, oyster mushrooms and beetroot purèe.

Or try our mouth watering pork ribs with Jack Daniell’s sauce, roasted potatoes, cherry tomatoes and rocketoasted daddle of deer with chestnuts, smoked celery purèe and pan fried Brussels sprouts.

Or perhaps you have a taste for duck breast with bean puree with French potatoes and marinated strawberries.

To finish off delight in our home made pastries. tel. 48 22 621 82 68 Żurawia str. 47/49 Warsaw www.smakiwarszawy.com

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#rallyforourrestaurants coming together to blast the competition out of the water. From the openers, the chili chicken fry stands out as a dish that’s all snap and crackle, while of the mains the tikka masala is exceptional in taste. Plus points for Indian-themed cocktails that really hit the mark – easily one of our favorite openings of 2018. (D4) ul. Widok 8, gururestauracja.pl

international Ale Wino You could eat in Ale Wino a hundred times – and we know some people that have – and still never be bored. That alone says much for the consistency and creativity of a kitchen that has come to be admired as the source of some of the best cooking in the city. Regularly adjusted to utilize the best items the season has to offer, chef Sebastian Wełpa’s menu is a triumph of expertly balanced tastes. (F5) ul. Mokotowska 48, alewino.pl Bibenda Preserving the prewar heritage of the building, the warm, busy interiors of Bibenda feel ripe for a pint: and yes, thanks to a rotating roster of craft beers, a good pint is what you can expect. Catching the ambience perfectly, the menu is an interesting work that specializes in spotting unlikely combinations that actually work: for instance, ‘cilantro funky pork sausages’ with pickled carrots, brussels sprouts and fried peanuts.(D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 10, bibenda.pl Brasserie Warszawska Looking for classic cuisine with no daft flights of fancy? Here you have it. At a time when everyone wants to be Ferran Adrià, Brasserie has both a menu and interior that you can understand: panfried foie gras; elegant beef Rossini; and sinful apple tarte tatin, all served inside posh interiors of zinc-plated mirrors and chessboard floors. (E5) ul. Górnośląska 24, brasseriewarszawska.pl Bubbles Occupying a small, square room, it’s intimate and relaxed: a place busy with blackboards and bottles, crates and clutter. It radiates warmth and honesty.

The food is exquisite, and includes big,

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meaty snails farmed in Mazury, and their signature dish: Swiss-style raclette.

Presented on a wooden chopping board, this cheese dish is classic melty goodness, and served alongside a pile of potatoes, onions marinated with caramel and candied pumpkin. Considering the place doubles as a champagne bar the prices are remarkably moderate. (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, bubbles.com.pl Bułkę przez Bibułkę Like their other ventures, there’s an enduring feeling of warmth and that’s despite the outsized dimensions: set in one of the hulking PRL leftovers that line Żurawia, the ceilings seemingly reach for miles but so too do the windows, leaving Bułkę basking in the comforting glow of the morning sun. Bristling with palm fronds and pot plants, the place buzzes through the day with clamor, clatter and lively conversation – come here for all-day breakfasts that include the hefty Lumberjack, and check back in March to see if their bakery’s up-and-running. (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12 Fest Port Czerniakowski There are those that claim Fest’s best months are in summer, and sure, their argument is convincing: hidden down twisting roads flanked by glinting waters and thick, tangled woodland, it’s an unexpected picture of pastoral bliss. But make no mistake, winter ain’t bad either.

A general restyling hasn’t just given this timber cabin a lighter look, but also introduced Agata Wojda as head chef.

Her presence adds a finesse to a place formerly recognized as a primordial celebration of meat and brawn. A hymn to Poland’s rural resources, her cooking bridges fanciful sophistication with homely familiarity. (G6) ul. Zaruskiego 8, fest.rest First Floor Restaurant Chic, elegant touches combine with a fully open kitchen visible from practically all angle. Live music is an inseparable element of the First Floor experience, with blues, hazz and Latino performances scheduled every weekend. ul. Kasprzaka 31 (Varsovia Apartamenty), firstfloorrest.pl Kieliszki Na Hożej Pristine in its whiteness, the corner tenement housing Kieliszki looks like a

big wedge of wedding cake. Justly, the interiors are every bit as delicious with their glimmering glass and geometric patterns. All this though pales into insignificance on account of a menu that’s noted for its rich, strident tastes and loving presentation: on this juror’s visit, that meant suckling pig bathed in mustard home brew, and a walloping dessert of honey cake and plum jam. (D5) ul. Hoża 41, kieliszkinahozej.pl Kromki Better known for kebab stores and booze outlets, this section of JPII does at times chuck up the occasional surprise: Kromki, for one. The menu is a Jackof-all-trades, with pizza and burgers rubbing shoulders against pierogi, steak and sharing plates. Yet despite the randomness of the choices and the curious location, there’s something here that really strikes the right note. Expect tastes that work inside a informal, casual space that’s fast taking off as a local secret. (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 45A

Loft Color, that’s what Loft has. It’s everywhere – from the design, which is all bubble shaped lights and splashy, bright cushions, to the drinks: extravagant cocktails that possibly glow in the dark.

The menu is full of playful experimentation, something reflected by a seasonal menu that has, in the past, presented such choices as chicken with strawberries. (D4) ul. Złota 11, restauracjaloft.pl MOD BEST WAWA 2019“Casual Dining” An incubator for the unorthodox, this cool and kooky venture pushes the envelope when it comes to being different. Devised

by Trisno Hamid, a Singaporean chef with a classic French background, glories include ramen noodles in a steamy yuzu broth and Angus beef rump steak served with tahini mashed potatoes and a big thump of chili and fig relish. Adding to the sense of being somewhere current, find a seriously cool vibe inside an interior featuring a retro mirrored wall, upside down plants and busy tables filled with the kind of people that you’d mistake

#rallyforourrestaurants for rising fashion photographers and contributors to Vice. (D6) ul. Oleandrów 8, fb.com/MODOleandrow8 Mokotowska 69 Set inside a rotunda at the tail end of the street, it’s a place that exudes elegance and class. Most of all, however, it’s a restaurant to be enjoyed. Brought to you by the same team credited for Merliniego 5, Mokotowska’s appreciation of steak has been lifted from their elder sister.

Yet the virtues of this restaurant extend beyond steak alone: on our last visit, the Insider enjoyed a volley of greats – creamy breaded calf brains, sophisticated smoked eel, and Mazurian crayfish served in a deep, joyous sauce of rowan berry and brandy. (E5) ul. Mokotowska 69, mokotowska69.com Restauracja Warszawska BEST WAWA 2019 “Newcomer” Humongous in size, the vast spaces and lack of natural light never feel an issue.

Loaded with slick finishes and polished raw materials, find this subterranean venue unraveling amid the giant original foundations that support this pre-war skyscraper. Divided into ‘snacks’, ‘plates’, ‘sides’ and ‘desserts’, big shouts go to a golden schnitzel the size of a tricycle wheel as well as the spicy pork dumplings served in a vibrant essence of paprika. (D4) Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9 (Hotel Warszawa), warszawa.hotel.com.pl Rozbrat 20 BEST WAWA 2019“Neo-Bistro” This busy neo-bistro fuses upmarket, casual styling with an exciting wine list, interactive service and the kind of atmosphere you can’t get enough of. Under chef Bartosz Szymczak’s leadership, Rozbrat’s grown to become one of the blogospheres favorite write-ups. Never the same, if there’s a consistent thread to visits then it’s the playful inventiveness that has come to define Szymczak’s cooking. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 20, rozbrat20.com.pl

Zoni BEST WAWA 2019 “Modern Polish” Located in a former Tsarist era vodka distillery, the interior revels in cast iron kilns, flooring produced from 19th century vodka barrels, long shadows and industrial bits and pieces that have been lovingly restored. Sprawling, historic and not short on statement, it’s an address to impress. Incoming chef Michał Gniadek has already earned a name as a star of tomorrow and his menu is a committed foray into what he terms as “seasonal international cuisine with a Polish twist”.

Think BBQ pork ribs that land with a thwunk, Agnolotti pasta expertly folded over Oscypek cheese and tuna served tataki-style. (G1) Pl. Konesera 1, zoni.today

italian Altro Locale Set in a quiet section of Old Mokotów, it’s

We invite you to the Koneser’s Square, the cultural and entertainment centre where you will find:

/ Warsaw’s best selection of restaurants and bars

k m

CAMPUS

/ The award-winning Polish Vodka Museum, art galleries

/ And a wide range of shops, from design stores to fashionable boutiques

See you soon!

www.koneser.eu

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#rallyforourrestaurants little wonder the plaudits haven’t ceased.

Owned by chef Andrea Carillo, authentic, homespun tastes vie for attention inside a charming space that’s chic and modern but never spartan. You can tell Carillo has invested his heart and soul in this venture, and the result is an ever-changing menu featuring lamb chops, sirloin, and sea bream done the Italian way – don’t think you’ll be getting any pizza here!

Fittingly, its reputation is now extending beyond the district’s natural border. (E8) ul. Willowa 9 Focaccia The big surprise at Focaccia is that there’s no Italian in the kitchen – it appears they don’t need one. Looking splendid in its crystal white colors, this dining room has plaudits aplenty for its selection of pizzas and more sophisticated mains: order the duck breast with marsala sauce for a failsafe choice. (D2) ul. Senatorska 13/15, focaccia.pl Mąka i Woda Purists applaud an approach that uses a custom-made oven from Naples and imported ingredients such as 00 Caputo flour and DOP certified San Marzano tomatoes. Scrupulously authentic, it’s no wonder that it’s packed to the gunnels every night of the week – even their Facebook page warns of 20-minute waiting times for a table alone. (D4) ul.

Chmielna 13A Trattoria Rucola The secret at this chain enterprise?

Despite a cut & paste interior (white tables against forest-themed wallpaper) the underlying and consistent quality has you thinking you’re dining somewhere unique. Find a vast selection of pizzas and other Italian standards cooked to a level that never falls below high. ul. Francuska 6, Krucza 6/14, Miodowa 1, Klimczaka 1 & Inwalidów 10, trattoriarucola.pl Tutti Santi With a kitchen team trained by champion pizzaiola Valerio Valle you’d be right to expect something a few steps beyond your standard high street pizza. Cooked in a woodfired Valoriani oven, the attention to detail is something else: sauce from Pelati tomatoes, Milano salami and Farina Le 5 Stagioni flour. (C3) ul. Królewska 18, tuttisanti.pl

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japanese Arigator This Japanese-style noodle joint whisks you to the narrow, steamy back alleys of late night Tokyo. Clad in corrugated iron and dark, weathered wooden slats, it’s got that buzzing sense of chaos that feels familiar from the films. And the food, gosh, they get that right as well.

From a tiny menu order up dainty pork dumplings, braised kakuni bacon or deep-fried tofu before hitting up a feisty bowl of ramen emanating life-affirming goodness. A complex tangle of interlacing flavors, it’s the sort of dish you’d happily queue up for: and yes, people do. (D6) ul.

Piękna 54 Mizu Irresistible, immaculate and imaginative, Mizu’s sushi sets a benchmark that Warsaw’s other Japanese joints can only aspire to. The off-center location adds to the impression of dining somewhere that only those in the loop know about. ul.

Duchnicka 3, mizusushi.pl Uki Uki How much do the locals appreciate Warsaw’s original udon bar? Enough to queue outside the door? That’s right.

Dining is a close quarters experience here, but is done so without complaint: that electric pasta maker turns out noodles of such chewy goodness that everyone leaves beaming. (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, ukiuki.pl

korean KoreaTown Rest Here, the ubiquitous KFC (Korean fried chicken) is all crunch and crackle and the bulgogi tender, juicy and the right side of sweet; accompanying them, an assortment of bitey dishes heaving with chilli flecked kimchi, daikon radish and pickled bits and bobs. All very good, but nothing compared to the bossam, braised pork belly scooped up by hand inside glistening perilla leaves: it’s a dish that soothes, gratifies and leaves diners looking every bit as pleased as the pipe-smoking tiger that gazes from the wall. (E9) ul. Olesińska 2, fb.com/KoreaTownRest

Miss Kimchi Cheap and cheerful Korean street food served in a small, steamy space that’s frequently packed to the rafters. Box sets come piled high with meat, rice and veg.

The spotlight falls on the bibimbap, a satisfying mess of shredded veg, lively spices, a fried egg and beef bulgogi. This is replenishment in its truest form. (B4) ul. Żelazna 58/62

latin & spanish Ceviche Bar BEST WAWA 2019 “Ethnic Dining” With chef Martin Gimenez Castro injecting his passion and personality into the venue, this is an address that punches through the greyness of everyday Warsaw. Ceviche – raw fish marinated in citrus juices and cilantro – is the default order, with the Atun one of the best sellers: chunks of tuna given a rich zing with the addition of chili, lime and roasted coriander. The Japanese influence on South America’s dining habits isn’t forgotten either, with must-haves including the the salmon tiraditos: served with teriyaki and sweet potato mash, it’s a joy of satisfying sensations: sweet, dreamy, spicy, creamy.

(C4) ul. Twarda 4, cevichebar.pl Tapas Gastrobar The popular practice is to order so many plates and bottles that the table becomes a Magic Eye of kaleidoscope patterns.

A great place for sharing and general interaction, the ambiance and quality belies the corporate anonymity of the location. Though the gazapcho is first class it’s bettered by the patatas bravos: fried potatoes in a ballsy tomato sauce.

(A4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tapasbar.pl

mexican Gringo Bar A Mexican wave is upon us, and high time too. After years of suffering frozen ingredients, timid flavors and daft Mariachi music to persuade us it’s all authentic, a raft of new cut-price eateries are showing the rest how it’s done.

Cooked and folded by fist bumping lads in back-to-front caps and baggy t-shirts,

#rallyforourrestaurants the food at Gringo is fiery, fresh and full of zing. There are detractors who claim this is a Polonized version of this cuisine, but the informal Gringo remains one of the market leaders. (E9) ul. Odolańska 15, gringobar.pl La Sirena You don’t even have to think twice when asked to name the best Mexican in the capital. Inspired by the ultra-violent films of Danny Trejo, the hardcore interior heaves with machetes, holy shrines, skulls and wire mesh; but if La Sirena looks fab, it tastes even better. Introducing a new dimension to Warsaw’s parched Mexican landscape, highlights inc. poblano peppers stuffed with pork/ beef, peach, apple and apricots, as well as a ‘near death’ salsa that’s finally living up to its name. (D5) ul. Piękna 54

Le Cedre Lounge Furnished in voluptuous Middle Eastern style, the latest subsidiary of the Le Cedre empire bursts with fancy sheesha pipes, extravagant rugs and shimmery satin drapes. It’s a look that’s fun, familiar, intimate and warm. Less encyclopedic than that of its two sister ventures, Le Cedre Lounge has a slimmer menu

that introduces several new tastes to fans of Lebanese cuisine. Helplessly more-ish, it’s food that’s in line with the vibey atmosphere and casual air. (C4) ul.

Grzybowska 5A, lecedre.pl Maghreb Maghreb is a place to call home – a warm, familiar restaurant whose bijou interior falls on the good side of casual.

The sense of natural goodness is emphasized by the add-ons that start landing on the table: a creamy baba ganoush with

middle eastern

Le Cedre With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoalgrilled lamb chops. (E1) Al. Solidarności 61, lecedre.pl

Le Cedre 84 Le Cedre just keep on getting it right.

Authenticity is key in this chainlette (well, there’s another two to pick from), as you’ll discover when talking to Tony, the Lebanese owner. To see the diversity of this cuisine, order the balbaak (six cold starters) or the byblos (six hot).

And food aside, it’s the atmosphere that carries them that extra yard: the whole philosophy of this cuisine is to share and share alike, making it a uniquely engaging experience when dining with friends.

(B3) Al. Solidarności 84, lecedre.pl

Plac Inwalidów 10 | tel. 22 322 82 28 | www.trattoriarucola.pl fb.com/TrattoriaRucola | Insta.com/TrattoriaRucolaWarszawa warsawinsider.pl

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#rallyforourrestaurants a gently smoky taste; zingy tabbouleh salad that screams with perky freshness; and an addictive mechouia dip made with roasted peppers and tomatoes. But these are a precursor for mains such as tajine dishes defined by their big-hearted richness – in this, the beef is the king, with a deep velvet sauce of honey and ginger and knuckle-sized prunes. ul. Burakowska 9, maghreb.pl

serious now that Bistro Pod Sowami has opened. From the outside, this corner tenement is a study in neo-gothic indulgence. On the inside, the muted elegance is perfectly partnered by cooking that sees traditional Polish given a modern reinvention. But will they survive the recent departure of chef Damian Wajda – we’ll be watching closely. (F1) ul. Okrzei 26, fb.com/bistropodsowami

polish

Dawne Smaki The atmospheric interiors hark to bygone years, while in sunnier times the back garden promises an oasis-like experience: if you’re new to Warsaw, it’s actually worth hanging around a few months just to see it. Specializing in traditional cuisine, the deer steak is recommended by all who try it. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 49

Bez Gwiazdek BEST WAWA 2019 “Best Chef” BEST WAWA 2019“Tasting Menu” While Bez Gwiazdek rejects the core principles of fine dining, don’t for one minute expect anything less than food that whispers refined sophistication. Focusing each month on a different region of the country, Robert Trzópek’s tasting menu takes diners to the very heart of the Polish soul and does so via tastes that betray his fine dining background: delicate and precise, it’s the polar opposite of the standard Polski feast. Just when you thought you had worked out the nation’s cuisine, along comes Robert Trzópek to rewrite the rules. (E3) ul. Wiślana 8, bezgwiazdek.com.pl Bistro Pod Sowami Talk of Praga’s revival feels a bit more

Elixir by Dom Wódki There are some who call the food here ‘deconstructed Polish’. In actuality, 'reconstructed' would be closer to the mark. The chef has taken local classics and redrafted the recipes with the swoosh of a contemporary pen. The outcome is a pleasure from start to finish: a life affirming żurek, a tartar that could fulfill ambassadorial duties for Poland, and a handsome beef tenderloin sprinkled with crispy potato shavings.

Thoughtful pairings with lesser-known, boutique vodkas add another dimension that serves to complete this pleasing,

patriotic adventure. (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl Kieliszki na Próżnej You’ll find Kieliszki na Próżnej, the latest restaurant to mark the rehabilitation of Próżna, so named after the 1,116 wineglasses that hang tantalizingly over the bar. As an anchor feature the suspended glassware is arresting and equaled only by a long stretch of wall art doodled by Mariusz Tarkawian. The food matches up to the interiors, with a modern Polish menu that – on our visit – involved a thick, brilliantly spreadable foie gras pate, a thick slab of brawn and a delicate piece of moist Baltic cod. It’s pure seasonal comfort. (C3) ul. Próżna 12, kieliszkinaproznej.pl Polana Smaków Compact and woodsy, Polana Smaków has lost none of its copious charm since trading a no-man’s land location for city center Warsaw. Few chefs do a better job than Andrzej Polan when it comes to making herring sexy, with his interpretation arriving with a homemade bagel and blobs of orange pumpkin. Desserts are a sin and have, in the past, included a boozy donut soaked in punch and puffed to extreme with a blast of vanilla cream. It’s sophisticated yet reassuringly simple. (C5) ul. E. Plater 14, polanasmakow.pl Pyzy Flaki Gorące Insulate yourself against the chill with a hearty helping of homemade dumplings that are squished into jars. Budget-minded in both cost and appearance, it’s become one of Praga’s worst kept secrets with several of Poland’s top food writers praising it to the hilt. Filled with a wide cast of characters, nowhere does a better job of expressing the district’s soul than this ramshackle eatery. (G1) Brzeska 29/31 Schabowy The simplicity of both the design and the dishes belies the quality. Start with a classic tartar before advancing into the real reason you’re here: a choice of breaded pork chops made from Mangalica or Złotnicka pork. This is Polish home cooking at its best. ul. Obrzeżna 1, fb.com/ schabowy.warszawa Świętoszek Tartuffe A subterranean venue set with arcing

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#rallyforourrestaurants brick walls and polished bits of fancy, it’s elegant enough for something special yet casual enough for walk-ins. A place of hospitality, human warmth and big, heartfelt tastes, the Insider’s December visit involved premium tartare revealed from under a smoking glass dome; pumpkin soup to die for; and deer steak with juniper sauce. Conclude with the Kajmak cake, a modernized version of the original 1986 recipe. You leave having eaten well and enjoyed every minute. ul.

Jezuicka 6/8, swietoszek.pl The Farm Preaching a message of farm-to-fork, this ambitious eatery takes its produce seriously – to the extent they have their own farm in the lake district to the north.

Adjusted with the seasons, the menu on our visited included a roe deer stewed in Ukiel beer and served in a pan under a light puff pastry: simply but beautiful.

Using chunky woods, copper light fittings and black and white floor tiles, the interior finishing leaves no doubt you’re somewhere upmarket, but the overriding sensation is of being somewhere welcoming and warm. Boosting the homespun charm are wall paintings depicting pastoral scenes from pre-war Prussia.

(D7) ul. Mokotowska 8, the-farm.pl Wuwu Concrete finishes, illuminated tubes of light, glass block walls and graphic illustrations lend a slick smartness to this narrow, bluish space. Busy with start-up entrepreneurs and off-duty business bods, they’re here to enjoy the food that connects vodka with the forgotten classics of inter-war Warsaw. With items like duck tongues on the menu, and a shared address with the Vodka Museum, these are ambitions that are realized. Pl. Konesera 1 (Centrum Praskie Koneser), wuwu.bar

has grown in stature and skill preparing a daily tinkered menu that opens your eyes to the real tastes of Poland. (E4) ul. Smolna 4, kafezn.pl

steak houses Beef n’ Pepper Beef N’ Pepper presents itself in a buzzy urban flash of violet blue lighting, slick banquette seating and open kitchen action.

Straight away, you get the feeling of being in a place that’s alive and active, a feeling that’s affirmed by a busy backlit bar from behind which black-shirted staff fling sunny cocktails for the after-work crowd.

Of course, it’s the food angle that takes precedence, and at Beef N’ Pepper that translates to a decent choice of surf’n’turf.

Highlights include thumping T-bones and a 60-day aged Argentinean top loin. (C5) ul. Nowogrodzka 47A, beefandpepper.pl BykBar Casual and affordable to all, Byk unassuming interior flatters to deceive: you’re talking about a top quality meat-centric menu that out guns many of the bigger and more high-profile players. For full review, see p. TK. (F6) ul. Rozbrat 8, fb.com/ bykbar

Butchery & Wine When Butchery opened in 2011 it completely transformed the way Poland viewed its steak. The first ‘new wave’ meat joint in the country, it’s launch lit the fuse for a steak revolution. Now an institution in its own right, this cosmopolitan spot remains one of the most sought out bookings in the capital – bookings are advised. (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, butcheryandwine.pl Hoża Wine and steak: it sounds simple, but Hoża have taken two simple pleasures to another level. It’s an ebullient space with service right out of charm school, and a kitchen team with a real knowledge of cows. A red-blooded affair, the menu is a steak sensation and well paired with a handpicked wine list. (D5) ul. Hoża 25A, hoza.warszawa.pl Koneser Grill In line with the rebooted factory surroundings, the interior opens out to present a space that feels industrial at its core but not short on smart, chic details: smooth lighting, blond woods, metal fixtures and outbreaks of rich teal colors. As the firewood stacked under the kitchen counter suggests, fire is central to the plot with the menu little more than a full-blooded foray into carnivorous worlds. But away from the meaty grill dishes there’s also plenty of

Zielony Niedźwiedź A sanctuary of elegant fancy, it’s a place of long, dark shadows and discreet decorative touches: From the outset, you’re made to feel that good things will happen, and this they do. Certified by Poland’s fledgling slow food movement, the menu gives star billing to the suppliers that keep the pantry full; but the truth is these aren’t the only heroes. Taking the reins in June, new chef Oliwia Bernady

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#rallyforourrestaurants sophistication: delicate quail Scotch eggs, grilled Fine de Claire oysters and grilled octopus served with duck hearts. (G1) ul.

Ząbkowska 29 (Centrum Praskie Koneser), konesergrill.pl Mięsny What’s not to like about a butcher, deli and bistro all rolled into one meaty treat.

Set down a leafy side street in posh Saska Kępa, this Saska Keeper presents a handful of wooden tables inside a monochrome-floored, white-tiled interior adorned with an azure-colored neon and graphic illustrative wall art depicting tasty farmyard animals – if you’re vegan, shoot yourself now. Typed onto a sheet of paper, the menu is an atavistic joyride that arouses primal, caveman urges: sweetbreads with chestnut puree; bone marrow with parsley salad; duck rillettes; and Red Angus steaks of every description. Nothing disappoints. ul. Walecznych 64, miesny.pl

thai Bangkok Soi In terms of interior design, find no more than some Chang beer pennants, Muangthong United football scarves, and film posters with unidentifiable titles.

Strangely, however, the basic look feels pleasingly honest. Replicating the street

tastes of Bangkok, find vigorously spiced red curry, Som Tam salad containing hard-to-find ingredients such as green papaya, and Tom Sap soup loaded with lemongrass, galangal, kaffir lime leaves and tomato. In this whir of full-throated flavors, it’s easy to become hopelessly lost in waves of bliss. (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 50

vegan

Edamame Vegan Sushi Sushi without its star ingredient sounds ridiculous, but this vegan sushi joint manages to out-maneuver its traditional competitors by replacing below-par fish with fresh, vegetarian produce: sugar snap peas, radish, carrots, asparagus, etc. In HappyCow’s rankings, it scores the highest of the lot. ul. Wilcza 11 Leonardo Verde Geometric patterns, plant arrangements and the large format illustrative artwork of Dominique A. Faryno decorate Leonardo Verde, an upmarket – but inexpensive – Italian joint. Pizza is the forte, and you’ll see why after ordering

the ‘hot romantic’. (D5) ul. Poznańska 13, fb.com/leonardo.verde.restaurant Tel Aviv A major icebreaker in terms of Poland’s vegan revolution, Tel Aviv woo with a super-funky, design that evokes the spirit of the Israeli capital through its raw finishes and street art motif. The food is a bonanza of Middle Eastern tastes and has, in the past, been wolfed down by passing members of Depeche Mode. (D5) ul. Poznanska 11, restauracjatelaviv.pl Youmiko Vegan Sushi Exceptional in every respect, Youmiko’s tasting menu is one of the undisputed highlights of what’s become known as the vegan square mile. “Our aim,” declares their manifesto, “is to mix traditional Japanese approaches with Polish creativity and surprise you with new textures and flavors.” Mission accomplished. (D5) ul. Hoża 62, youmiko.vg

vietnamese Vietnamka Divey but lively, diners step down into Vietnamka to find a shouty little lair of mint green walls and wobbly wooden tables. Infused with a gentle sense of chaos (drinks after mains, mains before starters), there’s a certain charm at work that feels authentic and convincing.

As for the food, you suspect that’ll be ’nam good when TV chef Kurt Scheller wonders in for a take-out. And boy, yes it is. Squiggled onto a crumpled sheet of paper, menu items include giant bowls of warming pho, steamed goat with lemongrass and more-ish spring rolls.

Exceptional in every respect, the cooking here sails Warsaw’s Asian scene into uncharted waters. (D5) ul. Poznańska 7, fb.com/VietnamkaPoznanska Viet Street Food Bistro What started out as a roaming food truck has settled down into life as a legitimate restaurant. Widely looked upon as the source of some of the best Vietnamese chow this city’s ever seen, the small menu contains steaming bowls of pho and banh mi baguettes loaded with meat and greens: both are brill. (H4) ul. Królowej Aldony 5/2, fb.com/vietstreetfoodpl

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First Sips

HEDONIST’S ASYLUM PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

After months of bad vibes and general panic, the return of Lunapark is the kind of news we just can’t get enough of. Quite simply the most imaginatively insane F&B concept that Warsaw’s ever seen, find this once-abandoned outdoor leisure complex given a Coney Island makeover complete with a bar set around a carousel; a circus-style big top entered via the mouth of a grinning clown; a shot bar disguised as a shooting gallery; and a bank of fairground games. A wild world of top quality food stalls, games, drinks and weirdness, it’s a haven of hip and a hedonist’s asylum. Defined by its incredible energy and madcap backdrop, even in these socially distanced times it’s again likely to become the sensation of the summer.

Lunapark ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 407, fb.com/lunaparknadwisla

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DR. BEER

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PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

craft beer Roundup

FEELIN’ CRAFTY?

Ok, so the pubs might have reopened, but another lesson we learned over the lockdown was just how easy it was to enjoy a brewery fresh pint on the safety of your sofa…

D

espite diabolical, and frankly petrifying forecasts as to their longer-term future, Poland’s craft producers have continued to do what they do best – churn out some of the most innovative artisanal beers in Europe. There’s specialty stores aplenty in Warsaw, including ten or so fitted with taps pouring fresh-batch deliveries into bottles and growlers – we’ve used the last few weeks to track down our faves.

A Może Pifko

Kabacki Dukt 8, fb.com/amozepifko Kabaty has a gold mine in the form of A Może Pifko, a store with some 500 or so different beers and about fifteen or so taps manned by well-informed staff accustomed to everyday dealings with craft nerds – as things stand, find them pouring beers from innovative domestic breweries such as Browar Stu Mostów, Monsters, and our lockdown star: Funky Fluid.

Czarodziejka Gorzałka

Kabacki Dukt 4 fb.com/czarodziejkagorzalka Something of a veteran in terms of its longevity, head thee to Czarodziejka Gorzałka for a cracking selection of bottles sourced from Poland’s experimental breweries as well as a choice of ten or so taps pouring all from Frizzante and light lagers to freshly delivered beers from the country’s top producers: currently, don’t miss out on Warsaw-based Palatum’s Mr Happy, a tropical double IPA that’ll blow your socks off.

Dr. Beer

Rondo Waszyngtona, fb.com/drbeerpl Those living in Saska Kępa have a true neighborhood hero in the shape of Dr. Beer. Find a roster of six taps as well as a diverse shelf offer featuring a broad range of Polish ciders, salted snacks and every genre of beer you could ever imagine inside a subterranean-style bolt hole in the passage running below Rondo Waszyngtona.

Piwny Kolektyw

Siemiatycka 36, fb.com/PiwnyKolektyw Numerous taps to choose from, many with a permanent offer set aside for wines and Lithuanian beers.

Further, find a more inter-changeable Polish craft offer presenting the latest brewery fresh beers delivered from the likes of Funky Fluid, Trzech Kumpli and Pinta. Fully adapted to the lockdown with plexiglass barriers and suchlike, their bottle offer is particularly striking in its choice.

Raj Piwosza

Bora-Komorowskiego 56A, fb.com/ rajpiwosza This Gocław-based off-license touts twelve taps dedicated to domestic breweries, as well as ample fridge and shelf space dedicated to Poland’s top craft breweries – the choice is staggering and extends to foreign fields with such breweries as Sweden’s Brewski also represented.

Knowledgeable English-speaking service rounds the experience out.

Outside the realm of craft beer, anticipate finding Polish ciders, a good portfolio of wine and a range of hard-to-find soft drinks.

Szyszka Chmielu

Poborzańska 39 Twenty taps in all, and whilst the majority are dedicated to Poland’s craft industry, find also tap wines and more mainstream brews from neighboring nations such as Czech and Lithuania.

Of the more maverick tipples, find this summer’s must-try: pineapple cider!

White Whale

Giełdowa 4E, fb.com/whitewhalewarsaw A stone’s throw from the Rising Museum, it’s easy to understand why White Whale were named the Warsaw Beer Trail’s ‘Shop of the Year’ in 2018.

Complimenting the eight taps are a motherlode of beers from game changing international breweries that have yet to fully penetrate the domestic market. It’s the ultimate beer geek heaven with plenty of room in which to maneuver and, also, a healthy range of wines and spirits that also challenge norms.

For up-to-the-minute info, check ontap.pl/ warszawa/sklepy.

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#rallyforourbarsandcafes bars & pubs The Alchemist A small place with a big bag of tricks: upscale pub grub from the British chef, fancy cocktails, and a self-serve wall of beer from a choice of global brewers.

Poland’s still getting used to the idea of ‘a pint after work’, but in The Alchemist the idea of a post-office drink seems so very right. (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 3, thealchemist.pl Beirut & Kraken Somewhere, amid all the junk relating to the Lebanese conflict (grenades, sandbags, ammo boxes, a rocket…), you’ll find the spirit of Poznańska contained within this long, skinny bar. As fashionable now as it was when it opened, forget not to finish the evening in their connecting venture, the Pirates of the Caribbean-style Kraken Rum Bar. Everybody else does at some stage or other, with evenings often dissolving into a wild, happy whirl of international voices. (D5) ul. Poznańska 12 Gram Up the stairs you go to enter Gram, a small room that invokes feelings of stepping inside a circus Big Top. Order up a craft beer from the fridge before making your way around the arcade games and pinball machines squeezed inside – come on, there’s not much to beat the feeling of outscoring your date on Space Invaders and Pac-Man. Between turns, count the number of monkey figures parachuting from the ceiling... (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 45/49 Koko & Roy Somewhere along the line Koko & Roy have blossomed into one of the Insider’s favorite weekend nights. With its quirky-cool design, multinational crowd and funky sounds, it’s the kind of place you hit pre-club before deciding to drop the club bit altogether. And in the event that things are slow, you can rely on the owners to grab the evening by the horns and lead you down a murky rabbit hole involving off-the-cuff cocktails and offbeat conversation. (D5) ul. Wilcza 43, kokoandroywarsaw.com Legends Run by Graham, an ex-embassy bod and devout Everton fan (well, someone has

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to be), this Brit pub has become the de facto choice when the football is on. Or the rugby. Or the cricket. Or just about any other sport that expats care to watch.

Whether it’s the Champions League or Bristol City on a wet, Tuesday night, there’s just no better space for boozy banter while the match unfolds. (C5) ul.

Emilii Plater 25, legendsbar.pl

Warszawa Powiśle The prime months for this former ticket booth arrive each summer when the deckchairs outside provide ample opportunity for the city’s young and fashionable to gather in an almost carnival-like atmosphere. Once seen as the hipster Center of Power, it still maintains great popularity with whiskered, tattooed sorts.

(E4) ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B

Wozownia Set in a 200-year-old carriage house within a secretive courtyard, Wozownia started life looking raw and ramshackle – in parts, it still does, but that’s not to say improvements haven’t been made, not least to a Lynch-esque winter garden that feels brilliantly dream-like. Drinks-wise, kick-ass cocktails sell just as well as the Prosecco, which remains arguably the cheapest glass of sparkly you’ll find in the city. Pair that with a sceney crowd of off-duty DJs, camp dudes with manbags and slender nightlife creatures and you have a place that feels on the front end of hip. Being here, so are you. (E4) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 16

cafés

Asfalt The combination of vinyl and coffee ain’t nothing new, but at Asfalt you feel that the very heart of the concept has been completely remastered. Helping that is a choice of tunes that’s nothing if not alternative: reggae, dub, hip hop, funk, soul and a little bit of jazz. And being owned by a Polish record label, there’s no shortage of maverick local sounds either.

Laidback and neighborly, it’s a place designed for hip locals to drop in, chill out.

You should as well. (E3) ul. Tamka 37 Być Może It’s all about artisan bread and breakfast

in the industrial looking Być Może. It’s taken the concept of Charlotte (groan, there’s even a communal table), and improved it with excellent breads and a crowd that’s a little less pleased with itself. (E7) ul. Bagatela 14, bycmoze.com.pl Cophi The phrase three’s a crowd could have been coined with Cophi in mind. Its super-snug dimensions are ideal for an afternoon spent curled up on an armchair watching the leaves tumble down on Hoża outside. A passion project whose small footprint is counterbalanced by the depth of its offer, the living room vibe mounts when the temperatures start dropping and the interiors act as a beacon to the public. (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60 FatWhite_CoffeeBar Attached to the hippest barber shop in town (tatts, beards and crazy whiskers!), the presence of this pocket-sized café gives Muranów a fresh, bold swagger.

Coffee aside (the cold brew rocks), the disarmingly friendly staff and locals generate one of the best café scenes for miles whilst the collection of toy figures (Bart Simpson, DC action heroes and a gun-toting Pacino) feels brilliantly off-beat. (C1) ul. Andersa 6 Hałas Vinyl + Coffee At 15 sq/m it’s a squeeze but Hałas doesn’t half pack a punch within its small footprint. Doubling as a friendly record store, it’s the kind of place where super hip punters stock up on Winehouse and Bjork while ordering up coffee ordered from roasters such as London’s Dark Arts roastery. Find their younger sister operating in a chilled out basement on Saska Kępa’s Elsterska 10 – it’s impossible to say which we prefer. ul. Jagiellońska 30 Relaks Now in their ninth year of business, any Hall of Fame (suburban or otherwise) just wouldn’t feel complete without the inclusion of this evergreen institution. Jacketed in chipboard panels and retro posters, the buzz about Relaks has lasted so long as to become ingrained in their DNA. (E9) ul.

Puławska 48 Stor A giant presence on the coffee map of Warsaw, Stor is the ultimate feelgood café:

#rallyforourbarsandcafes a place of slanting shadows and streaming sunlight, the irresistible ambience is matched only by peerless coffee prepared by expert baristas. (E3) ul. Tamka 33

cocktails The Cuba Libre Rum & Cigar House Envelope yourself in luxury at Cuba Libre, a no expense spared venture aimed at those who deal with nothing but the best.

Gathering the bright and the beautiful inside sophisticated tobacco-colored interiors, the warming ambiance is primed for an evening of cigars and conversation over pedigree-style cocktails and limited edition rums. (D5) ul. Poznańska 37, thecubalibre.pl Long Bar Posh doesn’t begin to cover it. Clad in smooth marble, natural oak, eye-catching art and soft tan leather, Long Bar imparts a sense of luxury that feels elegantly timeless yet never excessive nor ostentatious. This being part of the venerable Raffles chain, you’d be missing the mark if you ordered anything but their signature Slings – make a night of it by roaring through their ten different versions of this trademark drink. (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13 (Raffles Europejski Hotel) Mr. Oh A semi-secret world for those In The Know, find Mr. Oh in one of the Harry Potter towers that prop up Poniatowski Bridge. Dark, decadent and redolent of an after-hours members club, this latest concept from Enio Chłapowski-Myjak (formerly of 6 Cocktails) is firmly on its way to becoming the coolest address in town. Late nights, Asian-themed cocktails and an A-list crowd await. (F4) Al. 3 Maja / ul. Kruczkowskiego, mr-oh.com

Podwale Bar & Books Occupying the kind of charismatic gatehouse you’d read about in T Dickens, position yourself in front of R C T M theP upstairs fireplace for a celebratory C W cigar and ≈ a glass of something tall and W C lovely: the cocktails are in a class of ≈ C own C their and specifically customized ≈ HE MOST

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for the season. Spooling, silent Bond films, regular burlesque shows and random decorative monkey figures add an unexpected ‘element of weird’. (D2) ul. Wąski Dunaj 20, barandbooks.pl Reginabar Hip and happening, the concept at Reginabar is a wacky amalgam that mixes elements of New York’s Little Italy with China Town next door. The menu rocks, but find it augmented by a dynamic cocktail list that reflects the crazy things happening in Warsaw’s world of drinks: that means, the regular sips aside, ‘magic cocktails’ with names such as Power Spells and Star Dust. Dazzly and mysterious, lap these up in an interior that joins the retro with the avant garde. (E6) ul.

Koszykowa 1, fb.com/Reginakoszykowa1 Weles Named after the Slavic god of the underworld, everything about Weles evokes the spirit of indulgence: a zinc 1920s ceiling imported from the States, a crystal chandelier and a wooden bar carved from a British carousel. A work of refined craftsmanship, the cocktails stand out as the most sophisticated in the city.

(D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 11, welesbar.pl

craft beer Artezan Pub The country has crazier breweries for sure, but does it have anyone more consistent than the lads at Artezan.

Famed for their Pacific – the quintessential domestic IPA – Artezan’s flagship bar is a standard bearer not just for quality, but for Poland as a whole. (D4) ul. Moniuszki 1A Cuda Na Kiju Opened six years back (gosh, that long!?), Cuda remains a star of the summer. With 15 tap beers to get sloshed on, the mixed crowd does just that on a sprawling, sunlapped terrace that begins out front and then snakes into the shaded courtyard of the former Commie Party HQ. But even outside the sweaty months Cuda is worth the visit: drink inside a modern, glass cube that’s refreshingly contemporary.

(E4) ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, cudanakiju.pl

Drugie Dno The natural start (or finish) point of any Nowogrodzka pub crawl, head to The Double D for a space that conjures to mind a disused power station: sporting rugged brickwork and a scuffed style, the neo-industrial look is ramped up with the liberal use of steel girders, vintage voltage meters and toilets disguised as elevator shafts. Sixteen taps to drink through, many of them offering extreme drinking solutions from Europe’s most radical breweries. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 4 Jabeerwocky Drowned in boisterous babble and general pub racket, the affable Jabbers is home to what most rate as the most adventurous choice of craft beer in the city: pioneering international breweries are well represented, but don’t overlook the sensational drinks produced by Jabeerwocky’s very own master brewer.

(D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 12, taproom.pl

Kufle i Kapsle Found somewhere round the top of Warsaw’s hierarchy of craft beer bars, Kufle welcomes all, from entry level novices taking their first steps in the beery world to note-taking nerds conducting research for their blogs. Interiors are respectful of the building’s pre-war heritage and are thick with noise, clamor and the reassuring smell of spillage. The edgy beer selection becomes is even more radical when you look down in the fridge. (D5) ul.

Nowogrodzka 25 Same Krafty Squashed into two narrow, rooms decorated with benches and rough plaster walls, Same Krafty have rescued Old Town from big beer brands peddling piss. Offering artisan alternatives, this intimate bar lures daring tourists looking to explore the more subversive side of Polish brewing. Too busy? Head five meters opposite to Same Krafty Vis-à-vis. You will find tourists, but locals are often the majority, a telling indicator that says much for their approval rating. (D1) ul. Nowomiejska 10

for gentlemen Playhouse Housed in a former subterranean bomb

TASTINGS

≈ PRIVATE EVENTS ≈

LOCATION SHOOTS

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#rallyforourbarsandcafes shelter, the talk now is of bombshells: namely the 57 stunners they’ve got listed on their books. Inspired by high class joints in London and Vegas, it’s a refined choice with a no-pressure atmosphere and door staff that don’t look like they’re going to kick your head in. (B3) Al. Solidarności 82A, playhouse.pl

1 Sun Salon For something naughty but nice 1 Sun Salon offers body-to-body tantric massage with just about the happiest ending you could possibly wish for. Staffed with flighty college girls, and equally welcoming to stag groups as they are business travelers, head here to wallow in plush VIP rooms while every whim and fancy is satisfied and served. ul. Marszałkowska 24/26, 1sun.pl

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live music Hydrozagadka / Chmury Set out in the wildlands of Praga, consider this pair of neighboring venues as the definition of unforced cool. Known for their alternative music scene, the lowceilings and their tight, crowded confines generate an electrifying atmosphere where the audience and band become one. Walking a fine line between industrial and straight out decrepit, the ambiance is second to none: drinks flow, strangers meet and music smashes out – you can feel something special happening here. ul.

11 Listopada 22 Pardon To Tu Prepare for a heady swirl of innovative sounds, with the foggy atmosphere given a helping hand by an unorthodox audience that gels together into one vibrant mass. Set across two floors, find bordello colors set against a wall

of glory namechecking the obscure musical heroes through which this venue channels its spirit. Adding an extra layer of depth to Warsaw’s social scene with its flexi hours, maverick music policy and air of unforced cool, PTT win brownie points for their cool craft beers and cracking focaccia. (D6) Al. Armii Ludowej 14, pardontotu.pl

wine bars

Ale Wino!

Summers here are magical, with drinkers congregating on a courtyard deck shielded from the sun by a slanted white sail; but winters aren’t too shabby either – lose yourself within a warren of warmly-lit rooms that feel snug, intimate and even a little rustic. The choice of 250 plus wines is supported by some of the best cooking in the city. (E5) ul.

Mokotowska 48, alewino.pl

#rallyforourbarsandcafes Bubbles Despite sounding like a 1980s Essex nightclub, find this bistro locked inside an eternal state of romance. A charismatic assembly of rickety crates, Tolix chairs and deep forest greens, this compact space is ripe for dating. Order a glass of bubbles before plunging into a menu inspired by the slow food philosophy. Pl. Piłsudskiego 9 Dyletanci The archetypal all-rounder, Dyletanci has it all: an approachable bistro style; adventurous cooking; and a wine list with no discernible Achilles Heel. Burgundy is a particular strength, as too are Polish wines (including those from the proprietor’s own vineyard, the upcoming Dom Bliskowice). (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44,dyletanci.pl

all the wines they have (and there’s a motherlode to pick from) by the glass.

Enjoy them on a cobbled street that’s been magnificently restored to its pre-war prime. (D5) ul. Hoża 41, kieliszkinahozej.pl Mielżyński Wine Bar Tangled in vines and creeping ivy, this brick warehouse comes into its element each summer when drinkers pile outside to drink amid rustling trees and pristine lawns. Set within a former factory compound, the area has been revived with the legendary Mielżyński Wine Bar at its core. (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7 (also on Czerska 12), mielzynski.pl

Nowina The striking interior that catches the eye from across the street – restored pre-war Kieliszki Na Hożej tiling, glinting surfaces, a world map rendered from corks and an engaging Go on, count them: hanging tantalizreddish glow all do their bit to lend ingly over the bar are 1,116 glasses, a Insider reklama PVM half_page_H_144x102.ai 1 19.06.2019 14:21:41 testament toWarsaw Kieliszki’s promise to serve Nowina the kind of atmosphere that’s

missing in most local wine bars. Add to that an exciting international menu and a selection of over 400 wines and you have an absolute winner. (D4) ul. Nowogrodzka 4, nowina.waw.pl Rusiko Wine Bar The perfect foil for the Rusiko restaurant next door, this high-ceilinged, sapphirecolored haunt showcases Warsaw’s biggest selection of Georgian wine inside an interior decked out with elaborate rugs horded by the owner. Having first enjoyed the food opposite, finish the night in this genial, cozy bar. (E5) Al. Ujazdowskie 22, fb.com/winebarrusiko Winosfera Once a pre-war cinema, now a stunning wine bar / store with one of the most impressive collections in Poland: an expense account comes in handy. Equally notable is the ambitious fine dining menu of Jakub Adamczyk. (B3) ul. Chłodna 31, winosfera.pl

POLISH VODKA MUSEUM

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Centrum Praskie Koneser Plac Konesera 1 Warszawa

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Welcome (back) to Warsaw!

As we re-enter the world from our quarantine, there’s no better time to rediscover all there is to love about the Polish capital: covering the four corners of the city, we bring you the undisputed glories that everyone needs to know‌

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Up North

Northern Lights

There’s no shortage of fancy neons, and these include Kępa Potocka’s ‘Bubbles’, a series of flashing pink circles set on a 17-meter tall installation. Other noteworthy signs to add to the scrapbook include the giant ‘Miło Cię Widzieć’ (Nice To See You) sign adorning Most Gdański, as well as the one plastered above the old school Jaś & Małgosia bar. In recent times, these have been thrown in the shade by awesome newcomers such as W on Pl. Wilsona.

The Cult

Compare the then with the now by visiting Bar Sady, a classic milk bar of daffodil colors and noxious smells, before making it to Bar Gdański, another commie relic that’s been revived and modernized in a way that keeps prices low but the old odors at bay.

Summer Chill

Of the north’s numerous parks, it’s Krasiński that’s our fave. Drawing middle-aged friends armed with picnic hampers and boules, the immaculately preened lawns and little alcoves are ideal for summer chats over sunset toasts.

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On The Walls

Muranów has been enriched by a host of murals, many of which refer to the suburb’s history and can be found in the passageways connect the streets to the courtyards. But it’s in Żoliborz you’ll find possibly Warsaw’s most famous: celebrating David Bowie’s impromptu walk around 70s Warsaw (his train had been delayed), Ziggy Stardust has been decorating the wall on Marii Kazimiery 1 since 2016.

Selfie Spot

St. Anne’s Church at the mouth of Pl. Zamkowy came within a whisker of tumbling down entirely after the postwar construction of the W-Z tunnel rendered the surrounding ground unstable – only round-the-clock work by a team of 400 engineers saved the whole thing from crashing down!

You’ll be glad it didn’t, for now you can pant up its 147 steps to take dazzling selfies while Zygmunt’s column peers right behind you.

Instagram Me!

While you’re in Old Town, miss not ul. Dawna, a charming twitten bookended by two buildings that arch over the alley below. Five

meters wide, and forty-three meters in length, the street’s best-known embellishment – a powder blue annex arcing over the cobbled alley – was added in the 18th century to serve as a home for the parish priest.

Kiss Me Quick!

Going through the Dawna archway leads to a small alcove overlooking the river, an area commonly known as Gnojna Góra. Functioning as the town’s rubbish heap until the mid-19th century (syphilitics were once buried here neck high in poop as a vaunted cure for their ills), today it’s become one of Warsaw’s most romantic viewpoints, something affirmed by the lovelocks clasped to its railings.

I Don’t Believe That

In the woods beyond Wybrzeże Gdyńskie find Stanisław Wdowczyk, a man who jacked in the corporate rat race to take on the name of Einar and build a Viking fortress. No, really.

Named Jomsborg, and ringed by a palisade of sharpened wooden stakes, it’s here that enthusiasts gather to throw axes and drink mead in a tavern called Valhalla. Completely bonkers, look the place up on Facebook to learn about their open days.

dudes at Fat White, check in to get your whiskers waxed at Feranja barber shop, stock on coffee table tomes at Radio Telewizja, sup wacky pints in Craft Beer Muranów or feel part of the chicken revolution at the trending Kur & Wino. And don’t forget Drożdż, an artisan pizzeria lit with dangling pinkish orbs.

View Finder

The Museum of Warsaw on the Old Town Square does more than simply tell the story of the capital in a slightly maverick way: when you’re done with learning about the city’s first kebab shop, eyeing the bizarre vintage postcards or ogling the eccentric bits and pieces, make your way to the top for a woozy view of the Rynek below.

Check-Out

Tell Me A Secret

Visually akin to a village in some rural backwater, Osiedle Przyjaźń (the Friendship Estate) was founded in 1952 to house Soviet workers building the Palace of Culture. Allegedly built using materials salvaged from the Stalag IB Hohenstein prisoner of war camp, the picturesque timber cabins later became a student village where, among others, the future President of Mali lived. Thick with foliage and atmospheric alleys, it’s one of Warsaw’s best-kept secrets.

When Skies Turn Red

To mingle with yummy mummies, celebrity chefs, big shot bloggers and local foodies then head thee to Forteca, a farmers’ market set inside a former Tsarist fortress. Held each Wednesday, even with stiffening competition it continues to be regarded as the best such place in its genre.

Completed in 1959, the two-level Gdański Bridge includes a captivating spiral staircase on the that’s hypnotic in quality and a favorite photo stop for Just Married couples. Stunning to cross, the lower-level features tram tracks embedded into weathered wooden boards. Scissored in shadows cast from criss-crossing steel support pillars, the pedestrian walkways running each side promise a walk to remember, even more so come dusk when the Wisła basks in the dusky half-light.

Look & Learn

Check-In

Buyer’s Market

With the Old Town falling under our definition of north, there’s no shortage of museums to visit – with most hopefully reactivated by the time you read this, that doesn’t just mean the Museum of Warsaw but also the Heritage Interpretation Centre which

does a sterling job of broaching the subject of the city’s destruction and reconstruction. Outside of the Old Town walls, Polin, a former European Museum of the Year should need zero introduction, whilst the Katyń Museum up in the Citadel complex is especially worthwhile for its stunning architectural merit.

Pretty much anywhere along Andersa.

Where once Muranów was the domain of beret-wearing old women walking sausage dogs, today it’s undergoing a bit of a renaissance. Nowhere is this more obvious than on Andersa: hang out with a cold brew with bearded

Built on the rubble of the Jewish Ghetto, the district of Muranów is nothing if not a magnificent tribute to the Orwellian aesthetics of the Socialist Realist style. Interspersed with plaques and memorials honoring the area’s tragic wartime fate, the wide boulevards and out-of-proportion buildings are both dehumanizing and compelling in equal measure.

Take A Half Measure

Bringing the absurdities of everyday Poland into sharp focus is the archway connecting identical buildings on Andersa 1 and Nowolipie 1. A classic miscommunication between the entities governing the different addresses has left one half looking spotless and perfect, and the other a flaking mess of shabby ugliness. The stinging visual contrast has led to local wits renaming it the Twix Building.

Architect’s Eye

When the interwar decision was made to expand the city northwards, Żoliborz Oficerski was the result. A garden community specifically designed for the movers and shakers in the military world, the most high-ranking officers found themselves settled on Pl. Słoneczny, an area that’s retained its original beauty. But the same goes for much of this district. For other Żoliborz classics, check the Le Corbusierinspired Glass House on Mickiewicza 34/36 – Picasso partied here in 1948!

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GUIDE

Downsize

The Miniature Park (Krakowskie Przedmieście 66) is more than just a cute, engaging model world, but a trip back through time that allows visitors to feel the atmosphere of the city as it was in 18th and 19th centuries.

The detail is incredible and the scale models – of which there are around fifteen of mainly, non-existing former city landmarks – are utterly enchanting. Just how much Warsaw lost in the war becomes strikingly apparent.

Tell Me A Secret

So-called ‘urban explorers’ have a wealth of sites to bust into, and they don’t come weirder than SKRA, a huge sporting complex home to a rundown 35,000-capacity athletics stadium and four swimming pools long since swallowed whole by nature.

Recognized as one of the city’s earliest murals, recent plans to cover it were scotched after drawing city-wide protests. No matter what time of the year, it’s Bruno Althamer’s depiction of the musician Kora (Nowy Świat 18/20) that has earned the most plaudits.

Positioned next to a tree, it’s placement is such that the mural appears to grow and lose its hair with the passing of each season.

Find it behind the French Embassy.

Instagram Me

If it looks good from the outside, then it’s even better from within. Heavily influenced by the Italian renaissance, exploring the echoing cloisters of the Polytechnic is a breathtaking buzz.

Capped by a glorious glass ceiling that covers ornate, zig zagging stairwells, there’s a good reason it’s become an

Grand Central

Blast To The Past

Detailed in its captions, witty in its presentation and comprehensive in its content, the Museum of Life Under Communism (Piękna 28/3) is a place where normal items such as aftershave bottles, postcards, clothing and crude household appliances are allowed to shine on a totem and tell their own story. A haven of trinkets and collectibles, it is inside this phenomenal museum that an understanding is gained of what life was once like.

Central Lights

You can’t throw a stick in the city center without it landing on a neon sign of some description or other.

You’re aim will have to be pretty true to hit the volleyball player that stands high on Pl. Konstytucji though.

Without doubt the most famous neon in Warsaw, it was unveiled in 1961 to signpost a sports store down below and depict a female volleyball player tossing a ball in the air over and over again.

On The Walls

For the most part the murals to be found in the center are often frequently creative commercial adverts from the cannon of Good Looking Studio – nonetheless, others are to be found and these number the ‘Puppet Soldiers’ painted by Blu in 2010 on the side of Sienna 45.

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Summer Chill

When you’re done with feeding those damned peacocks of Łazienki Park, cut from the weekend crowds to instead prowl around the Finnish Houses. Named so because they were built using materials requisitioned from Finland, this neighborhood of timber chalets and flourishing greenery feels like a secretive, fairy tale world. Not dissimilar to entering a lost, rural village, the area is at its best in summer when the resident NGOs ramp up their community activities.

Instagram fave. And how’s this for a bit of trivia: the fictional character Ernest Stavro Blofeld earned a degree in Engineering and Radionics from the Poly before going on to become the greatest supervillain in the history of Bond!

Selfie Spot

First appearing in the middle of December, 2002, Joanna Rajkowska’s artificial palm tree in the center of Rondo de Gaulle’a lit the touchpaper for a horde of artists to follow in her wake and experiment in public, whilst

simultaneously handing the city a work that would become every bit as iconic of the post-communist capital as the skyscrapers blooming upwards.

Architect’s Eye

Warsaw’s architectural smorgasbord is especially rewarding if you like modern glass units or the Stalinist style, but do also pay a thought to the post-war modernism you’ll find in

abundance. Where this is concerned, the prime example is the Eastern Wall, a vast urban project that looked to counter-balance the Palace of Culture opposite by filling the gap between Świętokrzyska and Jerozolimskie with department stores and tower blocks.

Some call it ugly, but at the time it was visionary: “This must be the Warsaw of the future,” wrote Architektura magazine, “a place full of cars, helicopters,

includes the strange, eccentric world of the Doll House Museum on the ground floor, the artsy Bar Studio and Café Kulturalna as well as tours of the secretive subterranean passage that you’ll find guarded from vermin by a squadron of cats. There is more to the Palace of Culture than meets the eye – explore it.

Join The Cult

Temporarily moved to Foksal 17 whilst its spiritual home on Nowy Świat is renovated, there are no city center hangouts more cultish than Amatorska (ok, maybe we’ll give you the center’s plant entangled Parana). Successfully transplanting its inimitable atmosphere to the new location, the sheer disparity of its clientele veers from flouncy theater types and old school hacks to working class heroes with vodka in mind. A hub of whispered dissent, it was in places like Amatorska, claimed British journalist Ed Vulliamy, that the seeds of Poland’s revolution were born in the early 1980s.

Buyer’s Market

As popular with undercover chefs as it is with queue-jumping pensioners wielding walking sticks like sabers, the accessibility of Hala Mirowska’s price tags is bettered only by the rich bounty of produce that awaits those who visit.

But there’s more to it than just local fruit and veg. In the streets outside the flower market is a legend, while towards the back, Hala Gwardii – a former boxing gym – has been revived as a weekend food hall crowded with dozen of ethnic food stands.

Check-In scooters and fast life.”

Take A Square

Penned in by an ever-growing forest of skyscrapers, Pl. Grzybowski feels architecturally eclectic, socially diverse and perfectly primed for summer. Revived in 2010, what had hitherto been an overgrown park was reinvented as a shining new plaza filled with water features, benches, granite and greenery, and being here presents a rounded view of Warsaw through the ages: a stone’s throw are Jewish and Catholic houses of

worship, ugly post-war towers, daring, modern skyscrapers and, on nearby Próżna street, a stretch of pre-war tenements that survived the destruction of the Ghetto.

View Finder

At the risk of stating the bleeding obvious, the Palace of Culture’s viewing platform cannot be beaten (at least not until work is completed on the EU’s tallest building, the nearby Varso Tower). After, do what most people forget to do and explore the rest of the complex: what awaits

Naturally, bars and restaurants weigh down the city center like Mr. T’s chains.

Micro areas have emerged though, and these include the craft beer scene that thrives around Nowogrodzka, the cool bars and bistros of Poznańska, the Hala Koszyki food hall and the so-called vegan square mile: occupying the south central district that it attracts international vegan tourists says it all. If hedonism and cheap lager are your idea of a good night, then ‘the Pavilions’ behind Nowy Świat offer Poland’s largest concentration of seedy, loud dive bars.

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GUIDE

Downsize

Measuring in at a pokey 6 sq/m, Poland’s smallest café can really pack out: so far, 12 is the record for the number of people to squash into Dobro & Dobro (ul. Puławska 11), a feat unlikely to be repeated anytime soon given the ongoing pandemic. Oleg and Ina, the super friendly Ukrainian owners, stress the place was never meant as a gimmick: “This was our first business,” says Ina, “so we didn’t want to take the risk on something bigger.”

Southern Lights

Warsaw’s mania for neon has been clear for some time, but found itself asserted once more at the end of the year with the ceremonial return of the E. Wedel sign on Puławska 28. A replica of the one first positioned here in the 30s, it comes a close second to the Mozaika sign (Puławska 53) as our favorite in the area – when you’re done with marveling at it, step inside to enjoy a PRL vibe and Saturday dance nights playing Polski golden oldies. Eclectic is the word.

View Finder

Accessed by Warsaw’s longest staircase, climb to the top of Kopiec Powstania Warszawskiego (ul.

Bartycka) for endless city views. Built on war rubble, the 141-meter mound is crowned by a monument to the Warsaw Uprising. Lit on August 1st of each year, the ceremonial pyre at the top is kept burning for 63 days to honor each day of the doomed insurgency.

On The Walls

Playing catch-up, Ursynów has got in on the mural game with some style to spare: check Grzegorzewska 1 and 3 to find art that celebrates a wacky 1980s TV satire called Alternatywy 4.

The show, a gem of Polish pop culture, was filmed on this estate. For all that, Mokotów has the real biggies with standouts including a mechanical centaur by Italian artist Pixel Pancho at Dolna 37 and a black & white work titled The Rooster’s Egg on Racławicka 17.

Instagram Me!

Stunning architecture awaits those who step beyond the doors of the Warsaw School of Economics: capped by a pyramid-shaped glass roof, the 224 windows that the ‘parachute hall’ is magnificently lit at night courtesy of innovative LEDs added in 2010. Your followers will go bananas!

The Beautiful South

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Selfie Spot

Everyone loves a picture next to a ridiculous life-size dinosaur, and by God that’s what you get growling on the corner of Banacha and Żwirki i Wigury. The dude’s not there at random but to signpost the location of a Geological museum filled with rocks donated by Tsar Alexander I and other such thrills.

When Skies Turn Red

Connecting Mokotów with Wawer since 2002, find the cables of Siekierkowski Bridge painted migraine orange so as to prevent birds from smashing into them. Rather pretty ugly, the crossing is best-known as offering postcard perfect views of Warsaw’s skyline – photographers both amateur and pro swoon at the opportunities it presents for sunset shots.

Squat Down

Pretend you’re a social revolutionary that’s going to change the world by paying ADA (Puławska 37) a visit.

Occupied by squatters since 2013, joys include gigs from bands with names like Appalachian Terror Unit, bike repair workshops, indy book fairs, and lots of general lounging around amid colorful graffiti and junkyard furniture.

Screen Time

Lord knows when cinemas will reopen, but even while they’re closed it’s worth committing the name of Kino Iluzjon (Narbutta 50A) to the memory. Designed in Socialist Realist form and opened in 1956, it’s since been magically restored so as to evoke the yesteryear’s air. Famed not just for its architecture, the repertoire is slanted towards arthouse flicks and classics such as Singing In The Rain and Belle De Jour.

Architect’s Eye

To learn exactly what NOT when designing a new building then make a beeline to TVP’s HQ on Woronicza 17. Widely hailed as the most stupidly monstrous building in Warsaw (and let’s face it, that takes quite some doing), it’s a mind-boggling example of Gargamelizm, a grotesque architectural style perfected in post-commie Poland. Known by some as The Tower of Babel, and by others as Gargamel’s Castle, this glass vulgarity must be seen to be believed.

Join The Cult

The word cult must have been invented at Lotos (Belwederska 2).

Operating since 1952, this haven of

nostalgia has a madcap interior that mixes scarlet with wicker and a longstanding reputation for its steak tartar and vodka-fueled sessions. Roman Polanski once partied here, and today it still pulls a broad range of punters that swing from grizzled locals to cool cats intent on being ironic. Damn right nights leave an impression.

Summer Chill

Built on the instruction of Augustus II (who, if rumors are correct, ended up using it for debauched orgies), the palace at Królikarnia is surrounded by a shaded parkland festooned with contemporary sculptures and strange odds and ends. The rules posted at the entrance firmly state it’s legal to fly kites, read books and hug the statues: we encourage doing all three.

Tell Me A Secret

At Sobieskiego 100 find two seemingly abandoned blocks rising like a pyramid and connected at their apex by an inter-linking bridge. What’s it all about? The property of the Russian government since forever, rumors say this apartment complex was built at the height of the Cold War to house diplomats and spies. Now derelict but keenly guarded, videos secretively shot

by urban explorers have recorded nefarious looking handovers and revealed discarded Russian printed matter dating from this century.

Oo-ee-oo.

Check-In

It’s hard to grow bored of Mokotów when its features include such famous hangouts as Relaks (Puławska 48). Clad with 70s poster art and wood-paneled walls, find it serving pretty much Warsaw’s favorite coffee. Not far off, red-lit Regeneracja (Puławska 61) has a funky, kitschy look that attracts an effortless mix of students, ex-pats and young professionals. On occasion, evenings become wild. More current, Fort 8 (Fort Służew 1B) houses a super cool collection of restaurants and stores inside a set of revamped buildings built for a Tsarist garrison.

Check-Out

Forced to edit your retail choices in the south to one, then its Reset (Dąbrowskiego 36) that comes to mind.

Referencing the PRL heyday of Polish design, pluck through retro screen prints, 50s tea sets, circus posters and all manner of assorted weirdness in this compact but frankly unparalleled design store.

Buyer’s Market

There’s some tremendous choices when it comes to stocking the pantry ahead of Doomsday, and these include the vast Bio Bazar (Wołoska 3) which adheres to an almost lunatic commitment to eco-certified produce, as well as the far more modest but internationally-minded Bazar Olkuska (Olkuska 12).

Kiss Me Quick!

Positioned over a drainage ditch (yep, how’s that for romance!), Wilanów’s Mostek Zakochanych is a cutesy 12-meter bridge embellished with illuminated heart shapes that arch above. With the kissing done, escort your paramour to the lake adjoining Wilanów Palace. It’s their you’ll discover a redbrick Neo-Gothic pumphouse complete with a pier jutting out onto a calm, placid lake.

Hire a boat and paddle the inky waters to feel for a moment as if partaking in a Hugh Grant romcom.

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GUIDE

On The Walls

For Warsaw’s biggest outbreak of mural-osis there can be no dispute: look to the streets of Old Praga. There’s far too many to mention (for an interactive list, click to puszka.waw.pl), but Insider faves include Conor Harrington’s ‘Warsaw Fight Club’ (Środkowa 17) and DALeast’s Bird & Snake (Bliska 23). The latter is so freaky that several motorists have claimed its caused them to slam on their brakes.

Buyer’s Market

Antykwariat Grochowski (Kickiego 12) presents itself as a labyrinthine space in which over 130,000 books creak on shelves that look ready to collapse into dust. Heavy with the intriguing aroma of yellowing paper, it’s to here that young and old head to root out treasures from the assembled stock. Vast in its selection, aside from antique (and not so ancient) books find Polish comics, vinyl records, graphic art, disintegrating photos, old currency and the occasional medal.

Eastern Lights

Let no-one say different, Praga is the home of neon: rather, the Neon Muzeum is (Mińska 25). Decorated with 70 or so PRL era neon signs rescued from the unlikeliest places, their graphic beauty and enticing colors make it an essential stop for anyone with an artistic bone in their body.

scratchings and fried onions. You can still enjoy this practice at Pyzy Flaki Gorące (Brzeska 29/31), a ramshackle eatery whose coarse atmosphere belies its stalwart reputation among the food press.

Take A Street

Notoriously once dubbed “the most dangerous street in Warsaw”, there are stretches of Brzeska that remain uncomfortable to visit – at any time of day. But though historically deprived and neglected, shoots of recovery can be noted and nowadays the area between Ząbkowska and Bazar Rożyckiego can tout a vibrant scene thanks to venues like Pallone, Praska and Offside. More to the point, this has not been to the detriment of an atmosphere that can best be described as belonging to another time.

Check-In

Whether you call it the vodka factory (everyone else does) or by its official name Centrum Praskie Koneser, this revived set of industrial buildings

Check-Out

Praga’s revival owes much to Ząbkowska, a street that has become emblematic of the area’s new direction.

Featuring restored tenements, crowded bars, cobbled streets and glimmering courtyard shrines, it has become the social and creative heart of the city’s right side, a fact affirmed by the revitalization of the former Koneser Instagram Me Vodka Factory and the presence of Designed by the same geezer behind Hala Mirowska and Gwardii, the building anarchic bars such as Łysy Pingwin and W Oparach Absurdu. at Kłopotowskiego 38 has long been known as home to what many hail to be Poland’s most beautiful staircase. Star- Chow Down ring in countless films (among them, Powiśle on the west side of the river The Man With The Magic Box, a Polish (but east enough to make it onto this Academy Award winner about a time run-down) can rightly claim to be traveling janitor), beat the buzzer to find Warsaw’s bistro capital. In the shape yourself looking up a spiraling stairwell of Dyletanci, Rozbrat 20 and Bez that looks all the more magical when Gwiazdek you have plenty of reasons summer sunlight slants through the to never leave the district again: windows. they nail the very best of Warsaw.

Offering something entirely different, Join The Cult but equally addictive, Elektrownia Back when Bazar Różyckiego was a Powiśle, a former power plant, is set to social melting pot attracting all walks become Warsaw’s next big thing with a of life, it was something of a tradition super-cool food hall inside a sensitively to order a nip of vodka from one of the restored post-industrial interior. stalls and order up some tripe-filled dumplings (pyzy) squashed into Summer Chill little glass jars brimming with pork Trumpeted by local officials as one of

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Europe’s best riverfront boulevards, the revamped left bank is where everyone heads once the sun peeks out – in this day and age, forget that. In direct contrast, the Praga side offers wild, untamed nature that looks all the better in autumn’s golden glow. Of the city’s more enduring urban myths is the tale of a Japanese delegation asking the Mayor how much the city had spent on creating the illusion of such natural glory. “What amazing landscaping,” they are said to have gushed. It says much for the area’s effortless beauty.

For something that truly is manmade, then Skaryszewski Park offers plenty of landscaped gardens, still waters and “I didn’t expect that” memorials to 9/11 and a downed RAF plane.

Selfie Spot

Hit up the slightly cosmic-looking rooftop garden perched on top of the BUW Library (Dobra 68/70). Tangled with creeping Triffid-style vines and slashed with futuristic steel walkways that take you over the billiard green lawns, the route finishes at a breezy viewing platform looking out towards the Wisła.

Kiss Me Quick!

Forty-eight ropes hung from a pair of 90-meters pylons hold the capital’s first suspension bridge. Opened in 2000, Świętokrzyski has since become ‘the most filmed bridge in Poland’ and its slinky silhouette iconic of the city’s development. Starring in a slew of Polish romcoms such as Tylko Mnie Kochaj and Nigdy w Życiu, its appearance in these explains why canoodling couples head here to clamp their lovelocks to the railings – regular cleanup squads ensure the love doesn’t last.

View Finder

There’s every chance in the world that the Museum of Praga (Targowa 50/52) will still be closed, so save it to the memory bank to find a place that brilliantly documents the curiosities of the area. One of the highlights is a viewing platform that looks over the patchwork stall roofs of Różycki Market, a mythical marketplace selling rusting junk, low-value clothing and rail upon rail of unwanted wedding dresses – watching them dancing in the breeze as they dangle from hangers is one of Warsaw’s more surreal experiences.

When Skies Turn Red

Whatever way look at it, the view from the Saska Kępa side of Most Poniatowskiego is entrancing. Embellished with turrets, pavilions and ornamental lamps, if the bridge wasn’t captivating enough then cast your eyes down on a beach often thick with BBQ aromas and the state-of-the-art National Stadium in front. Any picture you take is guaranteed to look the biz.

Eastern Front

Take A Spin

As straight as spaghetti, Karowa street is a helter skelter thrill of hairpin bends and bumpy cobbles: at its climax, the Stanislawa Markiewicz viaduct is the iconic mouth of Powiśle with its ornate architecture making it a favorite landmark among serious photographers.

Architect’s Eye

Leafy, affluent and mined with little cafes (at all costs, look into Hałas!), Saska was built with strolling in mind.

The architecture is fascinating, and that largely means the inter-war modernist pearls such as the spirally outdoor stairwell round the back of Francuska 2, the rooftop terrace skylight on Obrońcow 10, and the curious ivy-clad villa at Katowicka 10.

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Go West

Architect’s Eye

The redevelopment of Wola has been swift and aggressive but for all of the skyscrapers, gated compounds and shiny offices, its eastern border remains best-known for the over-powering presence of Żelazna Brama, a walloping post-war housing estate comprised of nineteen 15-storey residential blocks.

The estate was a bold attempt on a vast scale to mold the socialist man through his environment – fans of communist aesthetics will be wowed.

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Downsize

It’s a right squeeze is the world’s skinniest house. Measuring just 92 centimeters at its narrowest, Dom Kereta (Chłodna 22) was named after its artistic patron, Israeli author Etgar Keret, and was – until you know what – open to receive visitors each weekend over summer. One of Warsaw’s wackiest attractions, potential visitors are advised to follow them on Facebook to await news on opening hours.

On The Walls

Established as an artist specializing in surreal watercolors of a dreamlike Warsaw, Tytus Brzozowski has in recent years found his work going XXL. West of the center, two murals of his creation exist, one a 35-meter homage to the Wola suburb on the side of The Spark office building, and the other on Chmielna 120. Incorporating a series of neon-lit circles, the latter is particularly striking at night.

Buyer’s Market

Sunday’s Kolo Antiques Market is your No. 1 source for attic finds that may or may not be worth what’s being asked. Aside from antiques in different stages of disintegration and Da Vinci reproductions (or are they?), rummage about for creepy war finds, old postcards, wigs you won’t wear, 60s vinyl, empty picture frames and rusting bayonets.

Join The Cult

There’s not one self-respecting local that isn’t familiar with the name Zagoździński (Górczewska 15). Such is their reputation for producing donuts (the founding father of the modern Polish nation, Józef Piłsudski, was a fan), that lines often stretch outside.

Founded in 1925, it’s a glorious old school throwback.

I Don’t Believe That

Making his only visit to Poland in1948, Pablo Picasso’s tour of Warsaw included a housing estate in Kolo.

Suitably impressed, he took out some charcoal and drew a hammer-waving mermaid inside an apartment on Deotymy 48. “My God it was massive,” exclaimed one eyewitness, “her bosoms were like two balloons.”

Increasingly irritated by the 400 people that would knock on their

day each day to see it, the owners eventually hired a handyman to paint and plaster over it. Doh!

View Finder

No doubt about it, The Rising Museum is the most important museum in the city. No need to introduce it given its oft-repeated story, but there is possibly a need to remind people as to the existence of its viewing platform.

With Wola earning a reputation as “Warsaw’s Manhattan”, there’s no finer place to marvel at the city’s growing skyline (assuming that is it’ll have reopened by the time you have this in your hand!).

Instagram Me

If you’re the kind of person that counts trespassing as a pastime then you won’t be able to resist sneaking through the fence to visit the Wola Gasworks. Known by some as ‘The Warsaw Colosseum’, duck the security guards to discover two derelict rotundas that present an eerie flashback to the industrial age. As shafts of light stream through the dozens of slit windows, the effect isn’t dissimilar to entering a ruined, ancient Cathedral: serene and unsettling, upload a pic and watch the shares go crazy.

better job of presenting the full range of the city’s visual contrasts than Chłodna.

It has it all: a skyscraper at one end, Socialist Realist buildings on the other, and in between everything from cobbles laid with pre-war tram lines, ugly 60s housing, luxury flats, a scuzzy brothel and dirty looking stores selling power drills and mops. Add to that a row of pavilions in the process of being bulldozed and the beautiful Church of St. Andrew the Apostle and you have pretty much Warsaw’s story in a nutshell.

Check-In

There are some that claim Warsaw’s hipster revolution of many moons back was born in Chłodna 25. They have a point – for much of the mid to late 00s it was a seething cauldron of creative events, eccentric fashions and long, wild nights. The glory years are over, but it remains part of a small clutch of cafes that feel they offer something truly alternative in their overall vibe.

Check-Out

With the city locked down for the duration of April, it was easy to miss the opening of the city’s latest metro stations: Młynów and Płocka. Setting an aesthetic benchmark that all other transport hubs in the city have no hope of matching, both are rich in neon trimmings that are stunning on the naked eye.

Inexorably associated with the city’s Jewish past, the area should be high on the agenda for anyone with a fleeting interest in history. Though now rarely illuminated at night, the crossroads at Chłodna and Żelazna feature an installation that commemorates the overhead bridge that once connected the small ghetto with the larger one, while down the road, visit Waliców 14 to view one of a handful of buildings that survived the area’s subsequent flattening. Bearing heavy signs of war damage, its most photogenic point is a 1,400 sq/m mural depicting a red balloon floating off into the air. Beneath, an inscription humbly announces, (Jews, we miss you).

Kiss Me Quick

Action!

Western Lights

Of all the public spaces that have been added to Warsaw’s map in recent years it is Pl. Europejski that arguably does the best job. Scissored with ribboning paths and bestowed with tinkling water features, its defining feature – aside from the Warsaw Spire that looms above – is the Warszawę sign. It’s become customary for romantics to stick their heads through the heart-shaped O before stealing a kiss and the ubiquitous selfie.

Take A Street

There can be few places that do a

Set inside a line of post-industrial lock-ups and warehouses, the Pinball Museum on Kolejowa 60 is a kaleidoscope of retro noise and color.

Dating from the pre-digital age, mostly from the 80s and 90s, these beautiful machines are there to be played – for a modest admission fee, visitors can spend as much time as they have testing their talents on machines such as Dirty Harry, Buck Rogers and Dr. Dude & His Excellent X-Ray (“If you’re ready to get hip,” reads the display, “turn on, power up and drop into my kinetic clinic!”). warsawinsider.pl

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LOOKING FORWARD

NOBU HOTEL

Looking Ahead

As Warsaw returns to some semblance of normality, we look ahead to this year’s groundbreaking projects that covid couldn’t halt!

ul. Wilcza Set on the former site of the city’s first boutique hotel, the Rialto, quite how far Warsaw’s hospitality scene has evolved can be measured by the imminent launch of Nobu. Founded

by Robert De Niro, chef Nobu Matsuhisa and producer Meir Teper, the trio’s 17th hotel will open its doors in August to reveal 117 guestrooms set across two areas: Art Deco themed rooms inside a pre-war tenement and ultra-modern suites within a new V-shaped wing that promise to take their cue from Japanese design philosophy (i.e.: lots of wood, stone, glass and concrete). Rooting around, awaiting discoveries include yoga mats, a Yakuta robe, Natura Blissé cosmetics and Matcha Kit Kats in the minibar! Downstairs, covet art sourced from the Jankilevitsch Collection, work out in the state-of-the-art fitness facilities, or simply be wooed by design masterstrokes such as the sculpted, wooden spiral stairwell.

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FHouse Club

ul. Foksal Is there an unluckier club in the world? First scheduled to open last Autumn, that date was pushed back following a suspected arson attack ten days prior to the launch. Their next stab at opening came a few weeks ago in March on Friday the 13th and, yep, you can guess what happened next.

With guests such as playboy DJ Gianluca Vacchi booked to appear, along came the pandemic, scuppering plans for the grand opening. Third time lucky? Fhouse certainly hope so.

Touted already as the most luxurious club Poland’s ever seen, features are set to include a swank design by Marco Belloto, an exclusive boutique, cigar room and no shortage of references to the club’s patron, Fashion TV.

Warsaw Hub

Rondo Daszyńskiego Better known as “that building that caught fire last year”,

PRESS MATERIAL

Nobu Hotel

WA R S AW H U B

images of the upper floors ablaze were flashed across the world last summer, but despite the size of the inferno, no injuries were recorded and the flames failed to damage the structural integrity of the tower. With the incident already demoted to the status of minor historical footnote, the Warsaw Hub hasn’t looked back. Dubbed “Warsaw’s most future-thinking building,” by its developer, Ghelamco, amenities shall include 75,000 sq/m of office space (of which nearly a tenth will be given over to co-working facilities), a hotel and fitness center. Already reporting significant leasing deals, its position on the very crossroads of Warsaw’s westwards-shifting business district has ensured its status as one of the most important developments in recent times.

Lewandowski Restaurant

Browary Warszawskie Excitement building around the Browary Warszawskie development has been ratcheted to max with news that football icon Robert Lewandowski will open a restaurant inside the complex along with two business partners. Slated to debut at the end of 2020, the 1,300 sq/m project will be set across four floors and feature a horde of sporting memorabilia donated by the Bayern Munich striker. “We don’t want to be a fine dining restaurant,” said one of

Lewandowski’s partners, “but a place where everyone will feel welcome.” Approximately thirty bars and restaurants are forecast to open within the former brewery’s confines including a craft microbrewery from the Ukrainian Kumpel group.

Browary Warszawskie

Żelazna / Grzybowska Founded in 1846, Haberbusch & Schiele were once one of 40 breweries that kept Warsaw merry, their beery operations conducted in the vast works plopped between Grzybowska and Żelazna. Having found a suitor in the shape of Echo Investment, the plot has been subject to rigorous work over the last five years and while much of the area has been given over to new build, the investor has been keen to retain as many of the historic elements as possible: an 1890s malthouse, the villa in which the brewery owners once resided, not to mention the brewery’s 170-year-old cellars – it’s in the latter the bulk of the area’s food and drink outlets will be found in the form of a Hala Koszykistyle space. Introduced with the aim of reintegrating the 4.4 hectare site into Warsaw’s urban fabric, the plot will feature 16,000 sq/m of civic space that will include gardens and green squares accessible to all. warsawinsider.pl

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INTERVIEW

A booking portal with a difference, Slowhop have earned a golden reputation for their diverse choice of stays that run the range from revamped palaces and lakeside castles, to mountain refuges and eco farms. This issue, we talk to founder Marcin Szałek about the impact of the coronavirus on this niche segment of the travel industry…

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WI: How did news of the lockdown hit both Slowhop and the hotels you represent?

MS: It was strange to watch – we could see the number of bookings being made going down day-by-day until eventually they hit literally zero. Not only that, but people that had already booked breaks began cancelling as well. Meanwhile, for our hosts, it’s round about that time that bookings usually pick-up ahead of their busiest time of year – the summer. With many having already made their annual repairs and upgrades, there were a few that found themselves without much money and that’s particularly true of those that had financed improvements using pre-payments that they then found themselves being asked to refund. All of a sudden, some were having to choose

between which bills they could pay.

How did the ‘slow’ travel industry respond?

Constructively. Straight away guests were asked not to cancel but to postpone instead and in the end they proved to be super responsive and demonstrated that they really wanted to support this niche in the travel sector – I think something like 95% of guests ended up agreeing to this solution. We knew the situation wouldn’t last forever, so from the beginning we began discussing what we could all do to make a successful return once restrictions were lifted.

In terms of this, what solutions were found?

Obviously the main thing for our hosts

SHUTTERSTOCK, OPPPOSITE COURTESY OFMARCIN SZAŁEK

Break Away

was to find ways to be able to maintain super sanitary conditions, though that said, in general I’d say that the places we represent have incredibly tight standards on that front anyhow. Nonetheless, many have looked to rethink how they use their space to ease congestion by maybe opening an extra entrance or laying out extra spaces in their gardens to allow future guests to separate themselves from other visitors. What’s struck me is how well this niche has recovered – our guests have shown a real trust in the hosts.

With foreign travel now looking distinctively unappealing, have you seen a wave of new users looking into holidaying in Poland this summer?

Absolutely. We’ve seen a huge growth in interest which, if I’m honest, is a little awkward as we’ve always been such a niche platform! The interest has amazed me, and we’ve now got a situation in which around 50% of our hosts are now saying they’re fully booked till the end of September. Globally, at least in the short and mid-term, people are going to be travelling less internationally, and that’s especially true when you think about the traditionally more popular destinations. Now all of a sudden a lot more people are looking into going somewhere more remote.

industry. Should another lockdown ever occur, we can at least be better prepared.

What did you learn yourself from the way you run your business?

Before, everything we were earning was being reinvested to support our rapid growth and that put us in a position where, quite often, there’d be nothing left in the bank account. I still want to grow, but the pandemic has taught me that this can be done at a less faster pace. If this happens again, I want to feel confident that we can ride out the storm. The lockdown demonstrated clearly how easy it is to lose an entire business.

Presumably the same lessons apply to your hosts?

Exactly. They need to work out how much money they need to hold in reserve to ensure survival should we see a repeat of the lockdown.

Fortunately for them though, they’re in a better position than traditional hotels in that their fixed costs aren’t so high – much of the work is done with their own hands. The ones this did really effect are the ones with a bigger staff.

They’re all responsible people who felt a duty to make sure no-one lost their jobs, but of course this meant assuming an added financial burden. Interestingly, many with a larger staff found ways to adapt and I heard some stories of places switching instead to producing eco food in their gardens to sell in the cities.

The million dollar question is, how safe it is to travel!

This is a question that people simply have to answer themselves. Personally though, I’m more inclined to believe that hiding in a small living space in the city is far more harmful than being out in the country, eating good food and having fresh air.

For those first-timers new to the concept of ‘slow travel’, what can they expect?

The places we represent are often intimate spaces that are run by people that think responsibly. I’ve also always thought that one of the main draws of the places in our portfolio is the fact you’re liable to meet interesting guests and hosts, though obviously the whole concept of sitting around a communal breakfast table or enjoying wine together in the evening will take a bit of a hit given that so many people will continue to practice distancing.

Given the calamity this could have been, you sound pretty upbeat about how its turned out…

We’re positively surprised – that said, we don’t know what the future might hold and as such we’re advising our hosts not to invest all their cash in repairs and to instead save whatever they might earn in the summer. We need to ensure we can survive as an

The places we represent are often intimate spaces that are run by people that think responsibly. warsawinsider.pl

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VIRTUAL THEATER

How and why should theater function online? Is it possible to transfer stage performances into the virtual domain?

Józef Szajna, during his tenure as director, invited Oskar Hansen to convert the large stage of our Theatre. Hansen suggested it be transformed in line with “open form” rules.

In honoring this tradition, when we're unable to stage performances on our actual stages, we change studio_online into a virtual atelier.

We invite theatrical and visual artists to deliver projects which aim to work with the language of creative arts connected with changes in our world, those we are collectively experiencing. We want to use the period of quarantine to evolve the idea of our Studio as an atelier which makes direct contact with both the art and the artist possible.

"Studio_online begins by opening these workspaces to the following artists: Zbyszek Bzymek and Andrew Maillet, Marcin Masecki, Łukasz Twarkowski, Rimini Protokoll, Małgorzata Wdowik, Rabih Mroué, Michał Korchowiec". www.teatrstudio.pl/en

THE SHOW MUST GO ON! SHUTTERSTOCK

First organized in 1959, the Sunday piano concerts that occur under the shadow of the Chopin monument in Łazienki Park have become one of the city’s proudest calling cards. Previously drawing crowds of up to three-thousand to the pristine, rose-fringed gardens, organizers have responded to the ban on mass gatherings by instead taking performances online. Free to watch and broadcast live on Facebook and YouTube, tune in throughout June at noon each Sunday to listen to both established and upcoming musicians recite works from Chopin’s oeuvre from within the imperial age orangery set inside the park.

Sundays With Chopin fb.com//koncertychopinowskie / koncerty-chopinowskie.pl

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GET OUT OF TOWN

TRAVEL BREAK

With foreign holidays taking a backseat, domestic rural breaks have fallen under the spotlight…

Scrambling up the driveway new arrivals are met by the site of a network of smart buildings shielded by a thick phalanx of trees: a stone villa built from freshly buffed raw materials; a wooden cottage; and, even, a contemporary tree house with floor-to-ceiling windows.

Set amid rolling hills and verdant green gorges, it’s a place that opens itself to long afternoon walks under clear, blue skies – stick a book in your pocket, for perhaps the best surprise is a small refuge to the back of the property where bales of hay have been set under a cute, timber canopy. Back at the residence, several nooks and alcoves

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await your exploration, including a small spa, whilst in-room aesthetics are an understated paean to modern Polish design: set with tasteful folkish undertones, there is a warm sense of comfort here that feels naturally tuned to the stillness outside.

Food & Drink

Sitting in the on-site restaurant, it isn’t unusual to find chefs making forays into the garden to pick and pluck the herbs growing in the pots outside.

Watching them, senses are aroused by the pungent aromas wafting from the smoker. Eating at Łubinowe Wzgórze can be a joy. Though slim, the menu is

a hearty celebration of local nature and the food simple but to be savored.

Out & About

The scenic spa town of Nałęczów lies just down the road, and in it a quaint series of attractions such as a pristine parks and quiet forest trails. For ‘action’, so to speak, most will make the 30 km drive to Lublin to enjoy a charming Old Town and a city that’s in the process of undergoing a thorough cultural reawakening. Łubinowe Wzgórze Nałęczów, lubinowe.pl, rooms from approx. zł. 220 per night

PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALEX WEBBER

The Place

INSIDER ESSENTIALS...

Katyń Museum This museum commemorates the murder of 21,000 Polish officers by the Soviets in the spring of 1940. Beyond its quite staggering architectural merit, the museum has done a stunning job of collecting and presenting artifacts relating to the slaughter. ul. Jeziorańskiego 4, muzeumkatynskie.pl

Miniature Park Magnificently detailed 1:25 scale models of Warsaw’s vanished, pre-war architectural treasures make this a stand-out little secret. Here, landmarks such as Saski Palace, the ‘summer theater’ and Żelazna Brama have been lovingly brought back from the dead in astonishing fashion. ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 66

Polish Vodka Museum The Polish Vodka Museum features five thematic rooms that do a slick and entertaining job of documenting the national tipple. Highpoints number a smart collection of salvaged bottles and an interactive room in which visitors can test their knowledge on a quiz machine and strap on some trippy goggles to experience the effects of being completely sloshed. Pl.

NEON MUSEUM

century applied arts. Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl

Museum of Life Under Communism Learn what Communism meant to the everyday person by rifling and rummaging through a room mocked-up to resemble a typical household apartment, watching propaganda films, pawing at vintage keep-fit gear or coveting the fashions of the time. ul. Piękna 28/34, mzprl.pl

Neon Museum Salvaged from the scrapheap (in many instances, literally), this museum houses several dozen neons that once lit up the capital and beyond. Beautiful in every respect, these renovated signs make for Warsaw’s coolest attraction: Instagram them now! ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org

The Royal Castle in Warsaw Highlights include the lavishly restored 18th century royal apartments with 22 paintings by Canaletto, the Senators’ Chamber in which the Constitution of the Third of May was signed and two remarkable Rembrandt paintings. Pl. Zamkowy 4, zamek-krolewski.pl

Konesera 1, muzeumpolskiejwodki.pl

National Museum Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars. For many, the real highlight is the Gallery of Polish Design, a thorough exploration of funky 20th

Train Museum Find 200 scale models of locomotives and steam engines inside or head outside to clamber over fifty trains and carriages in various stages of life. Top billing goes to a 1942 German armored artillery train and the walnut-clad personal wagon once used by Poland’s first post-war leader. ul. Towarowa 3, stacjamuzeum.pl

M I N I AT U R E PA R K

Zachęta National Art Gallery Regarded as one of Poland’s most prestigious galleries, the Zachęta has a busy program of temporary exhibitions that frequently showcase some of the biggest names in domestic and international contemporary art. Pl. Małachowskiego 3, zacheta.art.pl

CLOSED AT PRESS TIME Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20 Dom Spotkań z Historią ul. Karowa 20, dsh.waw.pl The Warsaw Rising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl Fryderyk Chopin Museum ul. Okólnik 1, chopin.museum Museum of Praga ul. Targowa 50/52, muzeumwarszawy.pl Museum on the Vistula ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 22, artmuseum.pl Museum of Warsaw Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42, muzeumwarszawy.pl Polin ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl

COVID UPDATE

Note that whilst many museums are back in operation, several remain closed while they finesse their offer to meet government guidelines. This is especially true of museums reliant on a more interactive approach. To avoid disappointment, check online first for any status updates.

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LEARNING warsaw montessori family

Casa dei Bambini

SUMMER SCHOOL

preschools American School of Warsaw Students aged 3-5 are encouraged to try new things, ask questions, and take risks in a nurturing environment in which they learn life skills alongside academics. Following the Primary Years Programme (PYP), our young students become caring, active participants in a lifelong journey of learning. Contact

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British Primary School of Wilanow A values-driven school EN offering a world-class education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS). Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9.

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admissions@aswarsaw.

admissions are international students.

The dedicated, IB-trained teachers deliver an innovative program (PYP) in English designed for modern world needs. The program offers a combination of Literacy, Maths, Social Studies, Science, Physical Education, Art, Music & Rhythmics, French and Polish classes. ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, canadian-school.pl

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations) Warsaw Montessori School Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have three green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin.

The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy.

Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel.

22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, warsawmontessori.edu.pl

Please email admissions@bswilanow.org to organise a visit.

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Age: 1-6 years old

When: June 29 – August 14 seven weeks

Where: Casa dei Bambini

The British School Early Years Centre The British School provides EYFS classes from Pre-nursery (age 30 months) to Reception (5 years old).

Children develop quickly and their Early Years practitioners aim to do all they can to help your child have the best possible start in life and become a lifelong learner. ul. Dąbrowskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646 7777 , thebritishschool.pl

Badowska 19

International Trilingual School of Warsaw Established in 1994, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fill-immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul.

Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/saint-exupery.pl

behind Sielecka 52

Information & registration: Kinga Chmiel

+ 48 692 099 134

office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl

www.wmf.edu.pl

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The Canadian School of Warsaw Preschool Welcoming students from the ages of 2.5 to 6 years old, currently 45% of their

The English Playhouse The English Playhouse functions in two

green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old. For more info or to arrange a tour call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email: jnowak@ theenglishplayhouse.com ul. Pływiańska 14a, tel. 22 843 9370, tep.edu.pl

Maple Tree Montessori Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, mapletreemontessori.pl

Montessori Stepping Stones An intimate, international, English-speaking preschool located in Powsin that follows the Montessori philosophy which emphasizes the individuality of each child. Children from the ages of 1.5-years-old to 6-years-old are welcome, with the school’s goals aimed at facilitating the individual development of the child, both physical and mental, through a system that is focused on the spontaneous use of the human intellect. ul. Przyczółkowa 140, tel. 728 939 582, montessoristeppingstones.pl

Trilingual Pre-school and Nursery “Three Languages” Center The only trilingual pre-school and nursery teaching English, Spanish and Polish through total language immer-

sion. All educators are native speaker pre-school teachers. The comprehensive curriculum follows American, Spanish and Polish curriculum standards. The pre-school was awarded European Language Label in 2012. ul. Karowa 14/16 lok 6 (3-6 year olds); ul. Cicha 5 lok 1 (1-2 year olds), tel. 517 872 682, 3languages.pl

schools American School of Warsaw With over 50 nationalities, ASW has been welcoming students from around the world since 1953. As an IB Continuum school, our students follow the PYP, MYP and DP throughout their learner journey. These programmes develop inquiring, knowledgeable and caring young people who are motivated to succeed. They are inspired by our highly qualified and international

The pursuit

of excellence We promise to support your child to love learning and achieve more than they ever thought possible.

www.thebritishschool.pl

Please email admissions@thebritishschool.pl or call (0048) 22 842 32 81 ext. 125 to arrange a tour

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teaching staff. Students graduate with either the IB diploma or an American high school diploma. All programs are conducted in English, with integrated EAL support for non-native speakers. Contact: admissions@aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00, ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), aswarsaw.org

British Primary School of Wilanow A values-driven school offering a world-class education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS).

Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9. Please email admissions@bswilanow.org to organise a visit.

their international student community: from Primary through to the Secondary Key Stages to the IGCSE examinations and a well-established International Baccalaureate (IB) Diploma Program. ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, thebritishschool.pl

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations) Warsaw Montessori School Guided by trained specialists, students will be responsible for managing their household, operating small businesses, caring for local flora and fauna as well as domesticated animals, taking charge of the younger children and much more. “Adolescence Program” activities, integrated with academic studies, help students discover their inner strength to meet life’s real challenges. ul.

classrooms provided. Located just steps from Lazienki Park, the school resides in vibrant surroundings near to museums, embassies and natural settings which provide students with learning outside the classroom. ul. Szwoleżerów 4 (grades 0-4), tel. 608 488 420; ul. Tatrzańska 5A (grades 5-8), tel. 604 137 826; ul.

Pytlasińskiego 13 (high school), tel. 787 095 835, wmf.edu.pl

The English Primary The English Primary is designed specifically for children in the primary education ages, just as children experience in England but in an international community. Pupils are taken through the key learning stages so that they can achieve to the best of their ability through a fun learning experience. The Core Curriculum subjects include English, Phonics, Science, Mathematics, French, PE and Swimming, Music, Personal, Social and Health Education. ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 784 037 808, tep.edu.pl

Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul.

Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob.

692 099 134, warsawmontessori.edu.pl

The British School Premium international school established in 1992 by Nord Anglia Education.

The curriculum is designed to provide the highest academic quality of education. They follow the English National Curriculum, adapted to the needs of

Casa dei Bambini Warsaw Montessori School A leader in the field of Montessori education, well-trained teachers guide students to independent and successful learning with both English and bilingual

Accepting applications for Nursery to Year 9 bsw.com.pl +48 221 110 062 ul. Hlonda 12, Warsaw admissions@bswilanow.org

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The Canadian School of Warsaw International Elementary and Middle School Located on two campuses in the Mokotów this is the only authorized IB

School with PYP programs taught in English and Polish. French is taught as a third language. Offers a wide range of extra activities, a summer school, and employs a full time psychologist.

Provision is made for additional Polish and English support. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create the perfect learning environment. ul. Bełska 7, tel. 692 411 573 / 885 420 044, secretary@canadian-school.pl or secretary.olimpijska@canadian-school.pl

the only school in Poland that implements the International Baccalaureate Program from kindergarten level all the way through to secondary school. The fully-qualified staff are committed to delivering only the highest standards of education. ul. Stępińska 13, tel. 22 852 06 08,

Frog Acclaimed language school aimed at all levels of competency. Flexible schedules and a history of working with foreigners make it one of the ‘go to’ choices for new arrivals wanting to polish their Polish. ul. Mazowiecka

maturamiedzynarodowa.pl

12/24, frog.org.pl

Warsaw Montessori School Focuses on the Montessori curriculum with an education based on the integration of conceptual learning and real-life experiences. ul. Szwoleżerów 4, tel. 22 841

Klub Dialogu Outstanding programs for foreigners living in Poland: a variety of courses aimed at every level. Using over ten years of experience, the leaning process becomes an adventure at Klub Dialogu. ul. Ordynacka 13/5,

3908, warsawmontessori.edu.pl

International Trilingual School of Warsaw Established in 1994, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fill-immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French.

Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul.

Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/ saint-exupery.pl

Monnet International School Located in Mokotów, the Monnett is

Willy Brandt Schule Warschau One of the city’s best renowned schools offers a kindergarten as well as primary and secondary education conducted to a German curriculum. Św. Urszuli

klubdialogu.pl

books

adult learning

Księgarnia Bullerbyn A supremely cheerful bookstore peddling everything from pop-up books and fairytales to history and legends. The ace up their sleeve is a sizeable selection of English-language literature: and that includes The Gruffalo! ul. Chmielna 10

Cup of Polish Personalized Polish classes adapted to meet your needs. Also home/company visits and online courses. For a free 60-minute trial email: kontakt@cupofpolish.com.

Moda Na Czytanie Some brilliant Warsaw-focused coffee table books, as well a half-decent collection of Englishlanguage books that range from classics to contemporary fiction. ul.

cupofpolish.com

Bracka 25

Ledóchowskiej 3, wbs.pl

monnet international school

PADDINGTON BEAR KINDERGARTEN

IB World School no 001483

's ton B g n i d LU Pad EN'S C EN LDR CHI OW OP N

Education for a better world

Belwederska 6a, Warsaw

www.maturamiedzynarodowa.pl/przedszkole warsawinsider.pl

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spas & salons

names making their first in-roads into the world of high fashion. ul. Mokotowska 26, lui-store.com

Creamy Creamy Creative Cosmetics offering a wide range of cosmetics which are based mainly on the deeply nourishing Haitian Moringa Oil. Created by Zofia Pinchinat-Witucka, a Haitian-Pole whose life goal has been to bring the two countries closer, Creamy’s cosmetics are vegan and cruelty-free and do not contain any synthetic dyes nor fragrances, petroleum components, sulphates or silicones. ul. Chmielna 6 (Warsaw), creamy.pl

Fifth Avenue Originating in Dublin, Fifth Avenue specialize in luxurious facials, waxing, massages and treatments for the hands and feet. Using a range of OPI varnishes and creams specially created for them in Germany, they’ve become synonymous with top-class treatments. ul. Mokotowska 49, fifthavenuewarszawa.pl

fashion Balthazar An atelier, boutique and private tailor with several unique brands. Book your meeting by calling tel. 535 545 728. Al. Rzeczypospolitej 18/68, balthazar.pl

Just Paul Exuding confident femininity, this energetic brand is characterized by its light and unobtrusive elegance and sense of effortless nonchalance. Founded in 2012 by designers Justyna and Paula, Just Paul seeks to address the needs of the modern woman with its line in chic but casual clothing and more dazzly evening wear. ul. Mokotowska 61, justpaul.pl Lui Store Elegant female fashion store with brands including Attico, Rixo London, 3.1 Philip Lim, Les Coyottes de Paris, Jonathan Simkhai, as well as lesser-known

Moliera 2 Boutique Brands: Alexnadre Birman, Alexandre Vauthier, Aquazzura, Balmain, Beach Bunny, Burberry, Buscemi, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Cult Gaia, Francesco Russo, Gianvito Rossi, Golden Goose, Herve Leger, Isabel Marant, Kenzo, Maison Michel, Marc Jacobs, Manolo Blahnik, Moncler, OneTeaspoon, Self-Portrait, Tod’s, Tory Burch, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon, Zimmermann. ul. Moliera 2, moliera2.com

Pan Tu Nie Stal Polish design at its peak: fashion is prominent, but there’s also interesting bitsy things such as aprons, jam jars, notebooks and mugs – all with a defiantly Polish twist. Eccentric, unusual and emphatically on-trend, it’s a must-visit.

Koszykowa 35/40, pantuniestal.com

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Brands: Beach Bunny, Buscemi, Canada Goose, Casadei, Christian Louboutin Men, Dsquared2, Fay, Gianvito Rossi, Hogan, Kenzo, Moncler, Mr & Mrs Italy, OTS, Ralph Lauren, Tod’s, Tom Ford, Tory Burch, Valentino, Yves Salomon. Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, plactrzechkrzyzy.com

Reykjavik District Chic, well-cut menswear for all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal. ul. Burakowska 15, reykjavikdistrict.com

Risk. Made In Warsaw Mixing modern shapes with expert tailoring, the idea was to create a look that’s both comfortable yet chic. That they’ve been featured in the likes of Vogue and Elle suggests that this target has been accomplished. ul. Szpitalna 9, riskmadeinwarsaw.com

Sabotage Those in-the-know know Sabotage as one of the places to buy funky

deconstructed denim and sportswear pieces. Here you’ll find a wide array of unique clothes, hats, belts and handbags in a variety of fabrics and styles that hail straight from New York, London and Tokyo. ul. Burakowska 5/7 Safripsti Formerly a make-up artist in London and Paris, owner Magdalena returned to Poland to open a vintage boutique.

Buying wholesale – meaning prices are kept in check – her fashion store presents finds like authentic cheerleader outfits and Hawaiian shirts for summer. ul. Oleandrów 3

Snobissimo Top labels from design houses like Jimmy Choo, Sonia Rykiel, Les Copains, Sergio Rossi etc., etc. With shoes and accessories all provided for, it’s a one-stop shop to re-boot your wardrobe. ul. Mokotowska 28

The Odder Side From small beginnings The Odder Side have grown from a cult brand to one of the most influential labels on the domestic fashion market. Few do a better job when it comes to making simple sexy. ul. Koszykowa 5, theodderside.pl

Wake Up The Bear Stylish ‘travel practical’ clothes as designed by the acclaimed Viola Spiechowicz. Featuring natural fabrics and multipurpose add-ons, this is the ultimate in comfort clothes. ul.

Mokotowska 41, wakeupthebear.com

Wearso.organic If you love extravagant forms and monochromes this is the place is for you.

Designers use only natural materials.

Aside from clothes and fashion accessories you’ll also find several items for home. ul. Boya- Żeleńskiego 2, wearso.com Zaremba Originally inspired by the Savile Row style, Zaremba have been fitting out gentlemen of Warsaw since 1898. Under Maciej Zaremba, the brand has moved forward to take into account global trends while also respecting its past. ul.

Nowogrodzka 15, zaremba-krawiec.pl

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home & design

shopping experiences

Art Sułek Space Acquaint yourself with the work of Marek Sułek, a multi-disciplinary artist specializing in sculpture, photography, graphics and painting. Especially known for his cutesy “Praga angels”, his works are ideal as gifts or statement pieces for the home. Pl. Konesera 2, fb.com/artsulekspace

Arkadia Stores inc. Mango, Lacoste, Guess, Hilfiger and Peek & Cloppenburg. Al.

Dom ze sztuką Founded by Katarzyna Czajka, the paintings inside this gallery have been donated by artists with the proceeds going towards homeless charities. Pl.

Jana Pawła II 82, arkadia.com.pl

Designer Outlet Warszawa Just 30-minutes from central Warsaw, and within a building influenced by Poland’s baroque period, discover over 100 brands offered at all year discounts of 30-70%. Brands include Boss, Hilfiger, Liu Jo, Furla, Michael Kors and many more. ul. Puławska 42E, designeroutletwarszawa.pl

Konesera, fundacjagodniezyc.pl

Grill Plus Home Trick out your garden, kitchen, living room and more with appliances from Bugatti, Japanese blades from the likes of Tajiro, Nagomi, Global, wine accessories from Vin Bouquet, and a whole range of innovative grill contraptions from a diverse selection of market leaders. Pl. Konesera 3 To Tu Art A contemporary gallery featuring paintings, sculpture, graphics, drawings, photographs and ceramics that are aesthetically suited for both personal and commercial use. Pl. Konesera 5, totuart.com

Galeria Mokotów Stores inc. Calvin Klein, Hollister, Hugo Boss, New Balance, Royal Collection and Timberland. ul. Wołoska 12, galeriamokotow.com.pl

Galeria Północna Poland’s first outpost of Hamley’s, as well as stores such as Forever 21, Lagerfeld and Guess. Part of the ‘fourth generation of shopping centers’, add-ons number a rooftop garden and some of the best kid’s facilities on Poland’s retail map. ul. Światowida 17, galeriapolnocna.pl

Klif House of Fashion Warsaw’s original luxury shopping

center has a line-up of top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko. ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl Koneser Koneser’s post-industrial confines provide a gorgeous backdrop for a shopping experience involving established Polish fashion brands, design shops and interesting additions such as the HappyJa Kids Concept Store, the Alembic alcohol emporium and, even, a Tesla dealership. Pl. Konesera, konesera.eu Mysia 3 Set in Poland’s former censorship office, the line-up includes Scandinavian fashion in Cos, shoes from My Paris, unconventional fashion from Nenukko and more. ul. Mysia 3, mysia3.pl Plac Unii One of Warsaw’s latest mall counts Armani Jeans, Liu-Jo and Pandora amongst its upmarket tenants. ul.

Puławska 2, placunii.pl

Vitkac Poland’s first luxury department store gathers the world’s top designers under one roof, with brands including Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton, Stella McCartney and Rick Owens. And that’s the tip of the iceberg. ul. Bracka 9, likusconceptstore.pl

CHOW DOWN IN LOCKDOWN!

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BROUGHT TO YOU BY MOLIERA 2

PARTNER

SPOTLIGHT

IN STORE FOR SUMMER

Prepare yourself for the season at Moliera 2…

O

ne of Poland’s most prestigious stores, find Moliera 2 set amid historic buildings that exude a sense of historic luxury: the Raffles Europejski and Bristol hotels, not to mention the National Opera and grand Royal Route. It’s fitting, with that mind, that our offer features the latest collections from the planet’s top fashion houses such as Manolo Blahnik, Christian Louboutin, Isabel Marant, Balmain, Burberry and Zimmermann.

Deemed by many to be a “High Heel Kingdom”, we’re also well-known for shoes from iconic brands like Aquazzura, Gianvito Rossi, Rene Caovilla and many more.

Distinguished by modern interiors set out with vividly-colored furniture, the inviting backdrop is ideal for browsing the best there is in clothing apparel, accessories and shoes – and what better way to get in the swing of splurging than with a glass of bubbly poured by one of our advisors?

Now, we’ve also got a new section to explore, one with a more contemporary vibe and street-style brands. Among others, find items

by Kenzo, Canada Goose, OneTeaspoon and Marc Jacobs, not to mention a wide range of high-quality cosmetics and skincare products as we as fragrances from the likes of Tom Ford, Kilian, 3Lab and other esteemed brands.

A must for every fashion-lover in Warsaw, if you can’t visit us, then do the next best thing and visit our online store for the latest in global fashion.

Moliera 2 ul. Moliera 2 street tel. 510 019 600, moliera2.com

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Stadion Narodowy

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5

3 4

6

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2

3

4

5

2

Chodk iewicza

Biały K amień

Ĺťaryna

Kulskiego

6

Moving?

Also immigration assistance, fine art shipping, pet transport and consulting services. ul. Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 8160, moveonerelo.com

Looking back

TAKE ME TO THE RIVER

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NAC

T

raditionally speaking, summer in the city has meant one thing and one thing alone: the Wisła. Known as ‘The Queen of Polish Rivers’, it was Warsaw’s location on this important trade route that first allowed the city to flourish, and whilst industrialization later saw the river’s commercial relevance eroded it found a new lease of life as the city’s summer parlor. Pleasure cruises were established as early as the 1830s and in 1878 a Rowing Association was founded – one of the first sports clubs to be legalized by the Tsarist authorities, its members included literary icons such as Henryk Sienkiewicz and Bolesław Prus.

Regattas and sailing competitions became major events and by the inter-war years the city could boast fifty rowing clubs and twenty marinas.

By this stage, swimming and sunbathing had also become popular activities, and sunseekers were particularly drawn to a private stretch of beach on the Saska Kępa side overseen by the Kozłowski brothers. Charging admission, but offering cleaner facilities and special attractions such as outdoor dance parties, their club became synonymous with carefree summer days. When the war finished, the crowds returned to the beaches eager to forget their privations to kayak and lap up ice cream from the enterprising vendors that set up shop on the riverbank.

Later, floating swimming tanks became a feature of the river, and these continued to thrive until increasing pollution levels forced a cessation.

For the Wisła, a new chapter was written after the fall of communism, with the left bank becoming home to dozens of wooden cabins hawking plastic pints to thick-necked goons. By the turn of the millennium it had become a great place to drink… if you liked a punch-up. Each summer greeted a new low: a severed head discovered under a barge; a Japanese tourist tossed into the waters. Enough was enough, and when local officials put a stop to riverside drinking it was seen as an inevitable response to the mounting problems.

In the succeeding years, the Wisła was cold-shouldered by the city, standing lonely and forgotten and largely overgrown. It is amazing, therefore, to think how rapidly this has changed.

An ambitious redevelopment spearheaded by former Mayor Hanna Gronkiewicz-Waltz has reconnected the western flank to the rest of the city, with the newly built boulevards becoming one of the city’s big attractions – to the extent that, a few years back, The Guardian was moved to declare the Polish capital as having one of the richest riverfront scenes in Europe. Reflecting the capital’s own dynamism and energy, they have become one of the big success stories of Warsaw’s modern history – but whether this stands to change in this era of social distancing only time will tell.