Warsaw Insider April 2019 #272

Street Art: Republic ¥ Architecture: Towarowa 22 History: Saski Palace The Capital’s Original City Magazine Since 1996

APRIL 2019

272 03/2019

INDEKS 334901 ISSN:1643-1723

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AQUAZZURA AQUAZZURA ALEXANDRE ALEXANDRE BIRMAN BIRMAN BALMAIN BALMAIN BURBERRY BURBERRY BUSCEMI BUSCEMI CASADEI CASADEI CHRISTIAN CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN LOUBOUTIN CULT CULT GAIA GAIA FRANCESCO FRANCESCO RUSSO RUSSO GIANVITO GIANVITO ROSSI ROSSI HERVE HERVE LEGER LEGER ISABEL ISABEL MARANT MARANT KENZO KENZO MAISON MAISON MICHEL MICHEL MARC MARC JACOBS JACOBS MANOLO MANOLO BLAHNIK BLAHNIK MR MR & & MRS MRS ITALY ITALY ONETEASPOON ONETEASPOON SELF SELF –– PORTRAIT PORTRAIT TOD’S TOD’S TORY TORY BURCH BURCH VICTORIA VICTORIA BECKHAM BECKHAM ZIMMERMANN ZIMMERMANN

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editorial INFRONT

Editor-in-chief Alex Webber

5 News

insider@warsawinsider.pl Art Director Kevin Demaria insider@warsawinsider.pl

FEATURES

Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com

8 Architecture: 1 Towarowa 22 0 Politics: 2 Saski Palace 8 Wall Art: 2 Dawid Majgat

Contributors: Stuart Dowell Maria Mileńko Michał Miszkurka Ed Wight

Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com

EAT!

33 Review:

Le' Pię 34 Review: San Thai 36 Review: Signature

ey Account Manager K Agata Sicińska asicinska@valkea.com ey Account Manager K Joanna Chmielewska jchmielewska@valkea.com

DRINK!

Regina Bar 62 Cheat Sheet:

Craft Beer

T

hree cheers for Spring! A color palette that, for the last few months, hasn’t gone beyond one shade of grey has been replaced by a new box of paints, lending Warsaw a big, ballsy swagger that’s filled with bold promise. The sense of new beginnings is palpable, and the bright promise of tomorrow DO! reflected by the vibrancy of the now. That’s why, this issue, 77 Review:

Love Poland Design we’ve gone a little newsy to bring you the latest from the frontline: the (re)development of Towarowa; the street art of Republic ¥; and 78 Review: the touted reconstruction of Saski Palace. And, as always, mingled

Tadeusz Rolke @ among the little, literary bonuses find the most comprehensive – DSH and reliable – rundown of bars, restaurants and café that exists in the capital. Hope you enjoy it, and see ya’ all next month.

82 Museums 93 Essentials 94 Map 96 Last Impression

Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

on the cover Spring has sprung, inspiring our cover artist to bring you the colors of the season! (Illustration by Michał Miszkurka)

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ey Account Manager K Karolina Zielonka kzielonka@valkea.com Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com Subscription 12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland.

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61 Review:

APRIL 2019

BURBERRY CANADA GOOSE CASADEI CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN MEN FAY GIANVITO ROSSI KENZO MONCLER MR & MRS ITALY ONETEASPOON RALPH LAUREN TOD’S TORY BURCH VALENTINO BURBERRY CHILDREN DSQUARED2 KIDS KENZO KIDS MONCLER KIDS

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in the

NEWS

PARTY POOPER ED WIGHT/SHUTTERSTOCK

Locals are up in arms after news was leaked of a proposal to severely clamp down on the bars and clubs that have come to define Warsaw’s waterfront scene. In response to concerns about litter and noise pollution, City Hall are rumored to have laid out plans that will see only two clubs given music licenses, and only then on the condition that sound is limited to 70 decibels – in short, that spells an end to the debauched all night parties for which the Wisła has become known.

Namechecked by The Guardian newspaper as being one of the most dynamic riversides in Europe, the left bank of the Wisła has transformed in recent years into a giant summertime party with thousands of drinkers hitting the bars and clubs each weekend to party till dawn. Last summer, those figures reached a zenith after local government officials rescinded a law banning the consumption of alcohol outdoors.

Now, however, the new mayor, Rafał Traszkowski, appears committed to putting an end to the hedonism, a move that has left many baffled and angry. Celebrated for its diversity, color and raw, unrelenting energy, the Wisła’s summer season has come to embody the capital’s maverick soul; should City Hall have their way, the Wisła stands to lose its identity and slip into anonymous homogeneity – though talks between officials and the Wisła’s nightspots are ongoing, already many are fearing the worst.

warsawinsider.pl

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News ENVIRONMENT

Plastic Planet The Miasto Jest Nasze community action group has joined forces with vendors at Hala Mirowska and Hala Gwardii with the aim of reducing the amount of plastic waste that ends up on Polish rubbish heaps each year. Using the hashtag #MamNaToPapier, and promoting the use of paper alternatives, a map outlining participating traders has been released as part of the campaign to slash the 55,000 tons worth of plastic bags delivered each year to tips across the nation.

CIT Y

HISTORY

1944 Honored Mayor Rafał Traszkowski has approved a motion to award veterans of the 1944 Warsaw Uprising two separate payments of zł. 1,994 as a token of gratitude for their service. The 63-day rebellion cost in excess of 200,000 lives and resulted in the near total destruction of the city.

Fewer than 2,000 former combatants are known to still be alive, with many struggling with financial and medical issues. Traszkowski has gone on record stating his desire to see the cash paid out by the time the Uprising’s anniversary next falls on August 1st.

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Warsaw Insider | APRIL 2019

The future of a spectacular prewar property looks to have been secured after its owner, AFI Europe, announced that renovation work would finally begin this spring. Built in 1899, the fate of Kamienica Krongolda on Złota 83 had been the subject of numerous rumors, with several sources concluding that it was being allowed to purposefully fall into decline so that it could be bulldozed and replaced by a skyscraper.

With that theory debunked, a spokesman for AFI Europe has revealed that the corner tenement – its façade marked by allegorical stone figures – will be treated to a “fairly expensive” refurbishment that will see many of its pre-war details returned.

Once considered one of Warsaw’s most prestigious addresses, it just about squeaked through the war but then saw its hitherto luxurious apartments divided into 120 smaller dwellings and then filled to the rafters with ‘out-of-towners’. At one stage, the overcrowding reached such a critical mass that the tenement was unofficially nicknamed Beijing. At the start of the millennium, its cult status was cemented after a soap opera was written based around the lives of the residents.

PRESS MATERIAL

Back From The Brink!

News

DESIGN

Sign Of The Times – among them are an 80-year-old tailor’s and an umbrella repair stop. Working alongside highly skilled neon manufacturers and graphic designers, this is not the first time Traffic Design have sought to enrich Warsaw’s public space. A similar action in PragaPółnoc last year saw their efforts recognized at the prestigious Innovation by Design awards.

PRESS MATERIAL

The streets of Warsaw’s Grochów and Kamionek districts have benefited from a project devoted to improving the signboards of small independent business. Overseen by the acclaimed Traffic Design studio, ten stores have seen their aged and tacky signs replaced with artisanal, design-minded concepts aimed at boosting their image and marketing value

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Warsaw Insider | APRIL 2019

GURU REDEFINES

MODERN INDIAN CUISINE

Our focus from the start has been to create modern Indian dishes and drinks, served in a relaxed space. We combine local seasonal ingredients with the authentic flavors, aromas and spices of India and the orient.

Widok 8, Warszawa www.gururestauracja.pl facebook.com/gururestauracja TEL. 22 857 0604

News CRIME

Ocean’s One The trial has begun of a Ukrainian man accused of a daring Ocean’s 11-style heist that saw a jewelry store in Arkadia robbed of items amounting to the value of zł. 720,000. The haul included 22 Tag Heuer watches, 12 timepieces by Longines and Certina and 11 by Tissot. Using knowledge acquired from his time working on construction sites, the crook hid in a toilet before breaking into an air duct and worming his way into the shop after hours.

The crime was only cracked after the villain was arrested in Germany for a similar stunt and his DNA matched to a criminal database.

TR ANSPORT

Hi To… Hive

CIT Y

To The River Other waterfront news has been lost a little amid the furor surrounding the vaunted closure of the Wisła’s bars but, nonetheless, a round-up of the month wouldn’t be complete without the overdue announcement regarding the latest slice of the riverside to be given a facelift. Running between Tamka and Świętokrzyski Bridge, the most recent refurb was unveiled in March, with the zł. 13 million scheme featuring a water curtain, skate park, hammocks, parkour obstacles and a waterfall.

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Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2019

PHOTOGRAPHS FROM TOP: PRESS MATERIAL, SHUTTERSTOCK, KEVIN DEMARIA

Hot on the heels of Lime, a new e-scooter brand hit the streets of Warsaw in March. Bankrolled

by Mytaxi, over 400 Hive scooters have been rolled out, making the Polish capital the 4th city in the world to be targeted by the firm.

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News

Totally Tree-riffic An ashleaf maple once earmarked for the chop is enjoying a second leaf of life after being voted Poland’s top tree. Sitting in the center of the town of Krasnystaw, the 65-year-old tree – once deemed ‘unsightly and deformed’ – came top of a nationwide poll to find a Polish representative for an international Tree of the Year competition.

Having survived repeated calls to be axed down, the crooked tree has since become a symbol of hope and determination and something of a local landmark. Cited for its popularity among photographers, children and artists, ‘the kneeling tree’ went on to finish sixth in the European contest after scoring over 16,000 votes.

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Warsaw Insider | APRIL 2019

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF KLUB GAJA/TOMASZ CHUSZCZA

NATURE

PERA RESTAURANT CORDIALLY INVITES YOU TO A CULINARY FEAST OF FLAVORS. Having cooked for the likes of Martin Scorsese, Leonardo Di Caprio, Cameron Diaz and Matt Damon, chef Nestor Grojewski is recognized as a true master of Italian cooking. Combining modernity with perfection whilst also preserving the traditional character of Italian cuisine, no other chef does it quite like Nestor!

Al. Krakowsa 248, tel. 575 468 685 instagram.com/perarestauracja facebook.com/perarestauracja

News ARCHITECTURE

Reach For The Sky Amended visualizations have been submitted concerning Widok Towers, a 95-meter skyscraper currently under construction behind the Rotunda. Featuring a wedge running down the middle, the 28-floor building replaced Universal, a squat communist era monstrosity that formerly housed the state monopoly in charge of Poland’s foreign exports. In later years, its façade was used for giant billboards and became symbolic of Warsaw addiction to crass, in-yer-face advertising. Due to be completed in 2020, hopes are high that Widok Towers – and the simultaneous redevelopment of the Rotunda – will re-humanize a central area that had become forbidding and lair-like in its darkness and cramped aesthetics.

NEIGHBORHOOD

A French Revolution City officials have begun consulting residents of Saska Kępa as to the possibility of pedestrianizing a section of ul. Francuska over summer. Inspired by Praga’s Otwarta Ząbkowska concept – a project that has, for the last few years, seen the street closed on selected weekends and given over to cultural initiatives – representatives hope that such a scheme will encourage artistic life in the area. Though concerning a short 250-meter stretch running from Rondo Waszyngtona down to ul. Zwycięzców, the proposal has been greeted with mixed enthusiasm with some snootier residents claiming such a move would cheapen the look of this affluent suburb.

CULTURE

Though completed in September of last year, a ‘levitating’ outdoor theater close to Lublin has found itself going viral in recent months after news of it began to spread. Designed by the Londonbased Unism Studio, the ‘floating, fluid platform’ was conceived with the aim of challenging the boundaries of ‘sight, taste and form’. With the stage doubling as a dining table, the innovative structure seeks to bring ‘the feast and the act come together as a singular performance’.

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PRESS MATERIAL

Floating Through It

News

SPORT

Rolling In The Deep

Work on one of the deepest swimming pools in the world is well underway in Mszczonów, a town set 50 kilometers south-west of Warsaw.

Scheduled for completion this coming autumn, Deep Spot is set to reach depths of 45 meters, making it the deepest swimming pool in Europe.

Containing 8,000 cubic meters of water – 27 times more than the average 25-meter pool – the facility will feature an innovative filtration system that will give the waters a near crystal clear transparency, as well tunnel, cave and shipwreck simulations. Targeted at both hobbyists and professionals, the management are hopeful that the pool will attract divers from across the world.

This, though, isn’t the only project that’s caused a splash in the area.

Planned to open next year, the nearby Suntago Waterworld will become Europe’s largest indoor waterpark with the one billion złoty investment involving a ‘water jungle’ complete with Europe’s longest slide, snow chambers, salt caves, thermal pools and over 700 palm trees imported from Costa Rica, Malaysia and Florida.

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PRESS MATERIAL

The countdown is on for the opening of a world-class aquatic attraction…

ARCHITECTURE

Look To The Future

News that one of the planet’s top architects is set to build in Warsaw has caught the city’s imagination…

O

ne of the world’s leading architectural firms is set to revive a decrepit corner of Warsaw as part of a project funded by EPP and Echo Investment. Already known for cutting edge designs such as Lego House (Denmark), Two World Trade Center (USA), and Google HQs in LA and London, BIG, an architectural studio founded

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and fronted by the award-winning Bjarke Ingels, revealed their plans for Poland at March’s MIPIM real estate fair held in Cannes.

Dubbed Towarowa 22, the initial masterplan aims to introduce “cultural infrastructure whilst creating a critical density of homes and workplaces to support the resident population of this 24/7 neighborhood.”

At the center of this development will be the historic Dom Słowa Polskiego building, a printing house that grew to become the largest in Poland during the communist period – throughout the 70s, approximately 27 million books, 510 million newspapers and 195 million magazines rolled off the presses here each year. Finally liquidated in 2010, the plot had since fallen into steady decline.

Covering a usable area of 230,000 sq/m, the project envisions the full renovation of Dom Słowa Polskiego, with modernist 1950s details such as its skylights and spiral staircases

PRESS MATERIAL

News

restored to their prime, and the introduction of an “archipelago of inter-connected gardens and public spaces.” Fully integrated into the fabric of the city, the finished concept will also see a section of ul. Wronia covered with a glass ceiling and the ground level in-filled with bars and restaurants. “When designing Towarowa 22,” says Bjarke Ingels, “we drew from the rich cultural history of Warsaw to create a contemporary neighborhood with a lasting value for the future.” As such, further innovations will include a theater, a Museum of Print, and a cinema facility with the capability of hosting major premiers and film festivals. As things stand, much paperwork still needs to be filed, however, Echo are hopeful that the masterplan will be adopted and the relevant building permits issued in the near future. Should that happen, building work could begin as early as next year with the one-stage project taking around five to six years to fully implement.

“

e drew from the rich w cultural history of Warsaw to create a contemporary neighborhood with a lasting value for the future warsawinsider.pl

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HISTORY RECONSTRUCTION

Palace Politics

ED WIGHT

Will they or won’t they? A project to reconstruct Warsaw’s legendary Saski Palace has reopened differences between local and national government officials…

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A

controversial plan to rebuild Saski Palace has hit headlines once more after opposing politicians moved to clarify their positions.

With President Andrzej Duda confirming the government’s intention to rebuild the palace on the occasion of the centenary of Poland’s independence last year, Stanisław Karczewski, the Marshall of the Senate, went a step further in March when he announced that the new building would house not just the seat of the Senate, but also a museum dedicated to the wartime destruction of Warsaw.

So far so good, right? Not so fast. The problem, and it’s a big one, is that the land isn’t the government’s to build on. Falling under the jurisdiction of opposition-controlled Warsaw, the incumbent mayor, Rafał Traszkowski, has made it clear that the city has bigger fish to fry and would not contribute to any resulting costs. With these estimated to fall between zł. 500 million and zł. 1 billion, Traszkowski has stated that Warsaw City Hall has far greater budgetary priorities. Further, Traszkowski added that unless the government nationalized the land on which the palace is to stand, then the city would have the final say on anything that might be built on the plot.

Karczewski, however, has other ideas. “We are determined to rebuild Saski Palace,” he warned, “with or without the consent of the Mayor.” While both sides have so far remained cordial in their discussions relating to the matter, an impasse appears to be approaching.

First built in 1661 for the poet Jan Andrzej Morsztyn,

the building was purchased in 1713 by King Augustus II The Strong who then rechristened it Saski Palace. For a time, it became home to the Warsaw Lyceum, and it was here that the Chopin family resided in a second floor apartment. Restyled after being damaged in the 1830 November Uprising, the inter-war years saw the introduction of the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Originally little more than an impromptu memorial commemorating soldiers killed in WWI and the Polish-Soviet war, the Polish General Staff soon bowed to public pressure and took the decision to create a permanent tomb honoring fallen Polish combatants. The coffins of three unknown soldiers were exhumed from a military cemetery in Lvov and transported to Saski, and on November 2, 1925, a stirring ceremony marked the official inauguration of the tomb. By this time the palace was serving as HQ for the Polish Ministry of War, and it was here that German enigma ciphers were first cracked in 1932. Having sustained just light damage during the 1939 Siege of Warsaw, the conquering Wehrmacht soon utilized it for their own purposes.

An inevitable victim of the Nazi plan to reduce Warsaw to rubble following the 1944 Warsaw Uprising, the Palace was leveled with cold proficiency – only the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier survived.

Whilst a project to rebuild the palace in the decade prior to this one was abandoned following the onset of the global recession, this time round hopes have been raised anew that one of Warsaw’s iconic landmarks could rise once again. warsawinsider.pl

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STREET ART COMISSION

FROM THE STREETS Fresh from their international travels, the Republic ¥ art movement returns to Warsaw with style to spare…

A

preposterous, self-invented parallel world inhabited by monsters and other creatures of the imagination, Republic ¥ is the country you’ve never visited, and Dawid Majgat its vagabond-at-large and diplomatic voice.

“It’s an imaginary country that I created,” explains the young artist, “a post-colonial state in the middle of nowhere inhabited by monsters – representing all aspects of human nature, these monsters are my tools and language; by creating the culture and history of this land, I’m able to freely comment on everyday issues such as history, politics and eternal human values. Following the idea that every person has an inner monster, the project is bound together by monst-art aesthetics and the concept of the colonial state.”

A native of Gorzów Wielkopolski, Majgat has been spreading ¥’s manifesto since its foundation, with the Polish capital serving as a potent incubator for his initial idea – Warsaw, though, was just the first step on an artistic journey that has seen the word of ¥ spread globally. Joining forces with Dutchman Guido Boelman (“The Consul of Republic ¥,” says Dawid), it was on Boelman’s urging that the pair set off on an intrepid international art tour that has taken them to Berlin, Amsterdam, Chicago and beyond. In

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these places, they have captured the zeitgeist, ‘live painting’ at art fests, in craft breweries, Boho cocktail bars, and inside a range of creative practices. But having first kicked-off this foreign adventure in Tel Aviv, there is perhaps a sense of coming full-circle that their latest project has seen them return there – only this time, not to the Tel Aviv that sits perched on the Mediterranean coastline, but the Tel Aviv positioned on Warsaw’s ul.

Poznańska. Recruited by Malka Kafka, the owner of this pioneering vegan brand, Majgat’s latest work has seen the walls of this uber cool hangout reimagined to maximum effort.

The Philosophy

“Tel Aviv is a Middle Eastern city,” says Malka, “vibrant and colorful, but also dirty and even a little scratched.

The streets though, they’re literally a gallery; you can walk around them for hours immersing yourself in the street art. Free walls are worth their weight in gold, which is why many artists are pushing the envelope with their work.

Painted using various techniques and styles their projects have created a powerful chaos and multiplicity. We wanted to replicate that on our walls.

Dawid understood us at once, and I think even more so because he had already worked on the streets of Tel Aviv. Further, we wanted to invite someone from the younger generation with a fresh outlook on street art.

Dawid was that person.”

“

ne of my female o monsters is a homage to my own cocker spaniel that passed away a few years ago

The Inspiration

“Republic ¥ first visited the city of Tel Aviv in November 2017,” adds Dawid, “now, thanks to Tel Aviv by Malka we’ve been able to reprise the emo

tions we experienced on the streets there. We loved the streets of Tel Aviv for their spontaneous sense of expression, and everything else that made the city feel so dirty, sexy and full of life. It’s a unique place on the world map and we were buzzing to be able to contribute to that. In terms of Tel Aviv by Malka, our goal was to mix the energy of the streets of Tel Aviv with the progressive, vegan thinking of Tel Aviv by Malka. We wanted to recreate that chaotic, wild vibe, whilst also giving producing something fresh and intimate.”

The Job

“We working from nine in the morning till ten at night for three full days,” continues Dawid. “It was a dynamic renovation and we were always in the company of builders, craftsmen, restaurant staff and architects so there was always plenty of joking and banter. Importantly though, painting in front of people allows me to see my work from a different perspective.”

The Art

“There’s a bit of a Bauhaus architectural motif,” says Dawid, “and we also included the Dizengoff Fountain, abstractive plants, happy monsters and lots of little bits to lend the feeling that a group of random people had left their mark on the walls: for instance, you’ll see some Hebrew phrases, handmade stickers and stenciled ornamentations. The ‘We Are Hummusexual’ slogan featuring some female lesbian monsters was a tribute to the classic 16th century painting of Gabrielle d’Estrées, and we also found space for a carrot-shaped menorah which I think serves as a cool icon for the restaurant itself. The monsters who inhabit our Republic have integrated to become citizens of Tel Aviv, so sometimes they’re depicted as Jewish, other times Arabic: in this city, we wanted to show that different cultures can live, create and share land together. Finally, there’s also lots of dogs! The actual city of Tel Aviv is alleged to be the most dog friendly city in the world, so we were sure to include several of those. Actually, one of my female monsters is a homage to my own cocker spaniel that passed away a few years ago.” warsawinsider.pl

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LANGUAGE FURTHER READING

Buy The Book

A new work from the canon of the Adam Mickiewicz Institute explores the more intriguing aspects of Polish history and culture in innovative style…

S

eeking to distill the essence of Poland into a series of 100 word entries, Quarks, Elephants & Pierogi is an entertaining romp that lays bare the curiosities of the country through the medium of language. Published by the Adam Mickiewicz Institute, the book dissects one-hundred words such as bohater (hero), filiżanka (tea cup), impreza (party) and pogoda (weather), and in doing so uses each one as an entry point into the multi-layered world of Polish history and culture.

Written by Mikołaj Gliński, Matthew Davies and Adam Żuławski, and accompanied by the illustrative artwork of Magdalena Burdzyńska, this compelling work hits a tone that’s light and amusing yet also detailed and precise. “We wanted to create something that was both information-rich and a feast for the eyes,” says Adam Żuławski, “and Magda Burdzyńska proved to be the perfect visual foil to the dense yet often tongue-in-check texts that we had prepared.”

A veritable mine of trivia, this lovingly written tome unravels the mysteries, paradoxes and lesser-known particulars of Poland within a format that’s logical, navigable and intelligently compiled. Within these pages, learn how a Polish scientist coined the word ‘vitamin’, how the post-communist transition saw the creation of the Polish Beer-Lovers Party and how pierogi saved the people of Kraków from massstarvation. A joy to dip in and out of, it’s a book brimming with emotional warmth and astute observations.

Quarks, Elephants & Pierogi: Poland in 100 Words is available in selected gallery and museum bookstores as well as Amazon.

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Warsaw Insider | APRIL 2019

“

i t’s a book brimming with emotional warmth and astute observations

warsawinsider.pl

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SOCIALIST REALISM SCULPTURE

Well Bronzed

A giant bronze sculpture by Poland’s most valuable female artist has left officials at the Palace of Culture & Science brassed off after going under the hammer in March.

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PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE COURTESY OF DESA, OPPOSITE NAC

A

statue titled Friendship found itself at the center of a bitter war of words in March after its previous owners staked an unconvincing claim to recover what once belonged to them – nearly thirty years after they had condemned it to be scrapped…

Designed in 1953 by Alina Szapocznikow as part of a competition held to celebrate Polish-Soviet friendship, the three-meter bronze work failed to win but was commissioned nonetheless. Depicting two males linked in brotherly embrace, the sculpture – called Przyjaźń in Polish – was cast the following year and then installed inside the main hall of the Palace of Culture & Science. There it remained until 1989 when the shift in Poland’s political climate sparked a wave of iconoclasm across the country; around the nation, baying crowds ripped down any monument and memorial associated with Big Brother next door.

Fearful that a similarly unruly horde would damage the interiors of PKiN, the Palace’s director of the time, Waldemar Sawicki, recruited a professional removal firm to get rid of Przyjaźń before the public could beat them to it. Such was its value at the time, no concerns were raised when the work crew sawed the arms off to enable them to squeeze the statue through the doors. In lieu of a fee, the boss of the removals company – an entrepreneur by the name of Zbigniew Bogusz – was

then allowed to keep the monument in return for services rendered, with the assumption being that he’d sell it for scrap.

Remarkably, Bogusz demonstrated the foresight to keep hold of Przyjaźń, and for several years it festered at the bottom of his garden. A couple of times, reporters from Gazeta Wyborcza penned follow-up articles about the monument’s fate, but despite its survival being public knowledge PKiN officials expressed no interest in recovering it. In fact, no-one did. Several times Bogusz attempted to donate it to museums for just the value of the metal, but only one showed any enthusiasm – even then, the sale was cancelled after the museum in question refused to cover the cost of transport.

There was, however, to be another twist in the tale. Despite enjoying relative success while she was alive, it was only this century – long after Szapocznikow had died – that the artist’s work began receiving the international recognition it deserved.

In fact, the interest in her has been such that she’s since become Poland’s most expensive female artist.

As for the statue, that was recently restored (minus the arms that were removed and subsequently lost), and placed on public display in March for the first time since its removal ahead of an auction that was due to be held as this issue went to print. With the guide price set between zł. 600,000 and zł. 900,000 (though with some insiders tipping it to sell for even more), PKiN officials have been left red-faced and ruing the day they let the monument leave their custody.

But despite PKiN representatives issuing desperate claims challenging the legality of the way Bogusz came to own the statue, the sale has been allowed to go ahead after no grounds for grievance were found. “We sought three different expert legal opinions,” says Juliusz Windorbski, CEO of DESA Unicum, the auction house handling the sale, “and all agreed that the statue was obtained legally. I’m so happy that the current owner didn’t destroy this fantastic piece of art, and I’m equally happy that it’s now going to go to a good collector that truly appreciates it.”

PKiN, in the meantime, have been left to puzzle over the iconic work of art that they allowed to slip their fingers.

ALINA SZAPOCZNIKOW The artist in the eye of the storm was born in 1926 to a middle-class Jewish family living in Kalisz. Imprisoned in the ghettoes of Pabianice and Łódź, she later survived a string of concentration camps including Auschwitz.

Taking Czechoslovakian citizenship in 1946, she studied sculpture in Prague before enrolling in the École nationale supérieure des Beaux-Arts in Paris. Returning to Poland in 1951, she soon won a series of state contracts to produce sculptures with Przyjaźń being one of her first. Partly, the value ascribed to this work stems from it being one of her earliest pieces, as well as the only one to survive to be sculpted using the Socialist Realist aesthetic.

The death of Stalin marked the demise of Socialist Realism and Szapocznikow’s work became darker and more personal. Her fame grew and in 1957 her first large-scale exhibition – held at Warsaw’s Zachęta Gallery – was the subject of a documentary shot by Roman Polański. Two years later, she produced one of her defining works, Bird, an abstract sculpture that was rediscovered languishing in the barn of a collector in upstate New York. Auctioned in 2016, it smashed the previous record for Poland’s most expensive sculpture when it sold for zł. 1.95 million.

Having already begun casting her own body in 1962, Szapocznikow was diagnosed with breast cancer in 1968 and responded by producing a series of tumor sculptures before finally succumbing to her illness in 1973. While her life saw a string of high-profile domestic and international exhibitions, she was largely undervalued abroad and it has only been this decade that her work has been awarded the prominence it warrants. Among others, acclaimed exhibitions of her work have been held in New York’s MoMA and England’s The Hepworth Wakefield. warsawinsider.pl

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Indian Inspiration

Rasoi (Rasoi Ghar) is a Hindi word meaning ‘Home Kitchen’ which is exactly what we’ve strived to create in this North Indian restaurant. Placing an emphasis on the high quality of our produce, we’re proud to create tantalizing flavors that mix traditional Northern Indian recipes with contemporary cooking techniques. A place of bright colors, mouthwatering aromas and good energy, visit us to feel a part of the Rasoi family!

Rasoi ul. Chmielna 98 / 15, rasoi.pl

Fantastic, No Plastic!

With an eye towards environmental awareness, Eugeniusz Adnitsov has dispensed of plastic to instead serve an array of vegan and vegetarian soups from delicious bread mugs produced using freshly prepped dough. From small beginnings, find Soup Culture in 20 locations across the globe, with their zero waste philosophy applied in each.

Soup Culture Al. Jana Pawła II 38 / ul. Pańska 67, soupculture.pl

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HIGH STANDARDS AT FIRST FLOOR!

Join us on the first floor of one of the hottest addresses in Wola!

L

ocated on the first floor of the Varsovia Aparatamenty building, our restaurant offers great Polish and international cuisine and a medley of other attractions that will appeal to both residents and tourists alike.

Starting with breakfast, we’re proud of our European-style buffet whose rich variety includes several hot dishes, a salad bar and live cooking station – something unique not just for Wola, but Warsaw as a whole. And look no further if you’re vegetarian – paired with our aromatic coffees and comprehensive choice of teas, our breakfast offer covers all necessary bases.

Should you be visiting on business, then we also offer breakfast, lunches and evening dinners geared towards corporate travelers and can also arrange conference space for those wishing to marry food with business.

Outside of work, join us each weekend for our Family Weekend Dinner: in addition to a special buffet featuring fresh juices and a special kids menu, enjoy entertainment provided by professional animators from one of the top children’s companies in the country – everyone, no matter their age, is guaranteed to enjoy their visit!

First Floor Restaurant ul. Kasprzaka 31 (1st floor, Varsovia Apartamenty), tel. 22 255 99 50, firstfloorrest.pl / fb.com/FirstFloorRestaurant

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Amber is Fine

The Amber Room Restaurant is located inside the historic Sobański Palace on the Royal Route running down Warsaw’s elegant Aleje Ujazdowskie. The restaurant specializes in fine dining and modern European cuisine whilst also featuring Polish dishes. Famed for using the highest quality seasonal ingredients, producing its own pastries as well offering an exhaustive collection of unique wines, the restaurant was recognized in the 2018 edition of the Michelin Guide with four couverts. Further, last year saw the restaurant receive Wine Spectator’s exclusive Award of Excellence and included in the La Liste rankings of the world’s best restaurants.

Amber Room Restaurant Aleje Ujazdowskie 13, tel. +48 600 800 999 recepcja@amberroom.pl, www.amber-room.pl

Unusual Sensations

A brand new restaurant on Krucza, at Kongresówka we specialize in ‘uncommon cuisine’: serving unusual dishes, visit us for calf’s brain, steak made using veal heart, herring milk, crayfish or ostrich steak.

Kongresówka Krucza 16/22

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A­ LL IN THE PROCESS!

Try top wines, immerse yourself in music and… let us teach you how to make the perfect coffee…

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ur atmospheric café is where guests will learn coffee’s deepest secrets.

If ever you’ve wished to make coffee to rival that of the best baristas, then at Proces that dream can become a reality. Inside our café you’ll learn how to make sensational coffee at a self-service bar equipped with all the necessary tools to play with alternative methods. Of course, always on-hand are our watchful, expert staff, ready to answer your questions and guide you in your path. Want to learn more? Then keep a lookout for our open workshops…

Proces Kawki ul. Ks. I. Kłopotowskiego 23/25, fb.com/proceskawki

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eat!

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

THE DUMPLING YOU SHOULD KNOW

In a nation that spends a fair few months of the year shivering under a brittle blanket of frost, there are few foods that lend more pleasure than a plate of pierogi. This is food to nourish the human spirit. At Le’pię, though, the humble simplicity of this staple is given a sexy makeover under the practiced hand of chef Sandra Kotowicz. In a restaurant that feels pure and feminine with its pristine tilework, gold cutlery and pastel pink finishes, the dumpling is given a remarkable, artisanal makeover. Handmade with love, find unlikely fillings such as pear and peach complimented by a pour of honey-ginger syrup, or black pudding squashed in with cranberry and crispy shallots. It’s all quite brilliant, in fact, brilliant enough to feature in a BBC travel segment aired over Christmas.

Le’pię ul. Topiel 12

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TASTES OF THAILAND San Thai says much for the renaissance of Próżna…

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PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

Y

ou don’t need to go that far back in time to remember when Próżna looked like it was going to come tumbling down: flanked by disintegrating tenements precariously propped up by wooden scaffolds, it was the street that time forgot. In many ways, its gentrification has been a little too rapid, but no-one can fault the quality of the restoration work: in a nutshell, it’s beautiful.

But with the renovation work all but nearly done, along comes the task of filling the street’s ground floor units.

Bistros and brasseries have been the popular choice, but for the last year and a bit we’ve also had a Thai plugging away, carving a name for themselves.

Positioned inside a glass-fronted oblong room, San Thai feels chic and smart with just the right amount of Asian masks and decoys to remind you that, yes, you will be eating Thai.

Upmarket but never intimidating, the interiors are harmoniously balanced with a menu that whistles with authentic tastes: delicate pouches of steamed homemade dumplings; chicken and shrimp skewers marinated in coconut milk and served with thick, paste-like peanut sauce; King Prawns in a snappy phanang curry; and the kind of Pad Thai that could be sent across Poland fulfilling ambassadorial duties for the nation it represents. Próżna might be an emerging center of bistronomy, but San Thai is a timely reminder of this area’s wider skill set – and a welcome one at that.

San Thai ul. Próşna 10, restauracjasanthai.pl

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SIGN IN TO SIGNATURE

Returning for an overdue look, the Insider finds Signature has lost none of its thrill…

LOOKIN’ GOOD?

Certainly. As if Signature wasn’t already known for its stunning look, interior designer Mariola Tomczak found herself called back into action in 2017 to freshen up her original design. Wow. Acquired at auction, the black and white images of Helmut Newton and Milton H. Greene remain in place, as do elements alluding to the building’s past role as the inter-war Soviet Embassy – think fancy stone pillars and elaborate cornicing. The difference is the color palate, with pops of pastel pink and olive green introduced to the main dining room with vivid effect. The side chamber, meanwhile, has been given a style that shouts ‘midnight garden’. Your challenge is deciding in which room to linger.

BACKSTAGE HERO

Wojciech Kilian remains at the helm, steering Signature in bold, new directions. “Simply, we want to provide good food,” he remarks, adding that it has to be in season, and as healthy as possible. Alone, that says much for the modesty of a chef that has traditionally tended to keep out of the limelight.

What it doesn’t reveal is just how good this guy really is.

THE DEAL

Given the setting, given the standard, you get the sense that they’re… giving it away. Priced at zł. 48, the daily-changing ‘business lunch’ sets a standard that feels impossible to surpass. On the Insider’s visit that meant a French onion soup that was deep, thick and pungent and the gastronomic equivalent of a passionate embrace. Mains, we went splits on a pristine smoked cod elegantly perched on a bisque sauce, and cuts of tender guinea fowl accompanied by potato dumplings stuffed with sauerkraut and Portobello. Oozing the kind of finesse rarely associated with lunch deals, both plates are cleared within a matter of minutes.

THE REST

Out of lunch hours, hit them up for an a la carte menu that feels creative whilst staying true to Kilian’s fundamental desire to cook food that people understand. Find tuna served with

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Signature ul. Poznańska 15, signaturerestaurant.pl

“

Wojciech Kilian

remains at the helm, steering Signature in bold, new directions.

dashi broth and marinated avocado, or top class mains such as deer cheeks with pomegranate molasses and stuffed cabbage.

THE BEST

We didn’t mention dessert when rounding up the lunch deal above, did we? That’s because we went maverick and ordered a la carte. You should as well. Placed first in the 2015 edition of the Wine & Food Noble Night, the praline tart has stayed on the menu ever since. Enshrined as a Signature classic, it’s just a model demonstration of the competencies of this kitchen.

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

SEEING STARS

Making the most of their name, Signature have recruited a medley of Polish stars to collaborate with Kilian and sign off on the resulting creations. The result is an a la carte menu sprinkled with works co-created by local ’slebs and the kitchen team: for instance, sturgeon with a dried fig puree, dried apple and lemongrass sauce and cannelloni with chestnuts and porcini mushrooms. For that, thank actress Anita Sokołowska. Other domestic A-listers have also chanced their luck at the pass, among them screen heroes Borys Szyc and Małgorzata Socha. warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings By in large, you can expect to pay between zł. 20-35 for starters, and zł.

35-70 for mains. Expect those prices to double in the case of the city’s fine dining venues. Those wishing to cut costs should seek out the weekday business lunch deals now offered by most restaurants. When tipping, 10-20% is considered polite though be aware of automatic service charges in some venues.

american 38 chinese 38 comfort & street food 38 fine dining 39 french 40 georgian 40 greek & turkish 40 indian 41 indonesian 42 international 42 italian 46 japanese & sushi 47 korean 48 latin & spanish 48 mexican 48 middle eastern 49 polish 50 scandinavian 54 seafood 54 specialty food shops 55 steak houses 56 thai 57 ukrainian 58 vegan & wholefood 58 vietnamese 60

american Koko & Roy Spotlighting ‘New American Cuisine’, the thrust here is on comfort food, albeit several steps beyond what you’d rustle up at home: the Odds & Ends (deep fried pigs tails and chicken hearts tumbled into a big bowl and served with pickled red

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onions and a lash of sriracha aioli) are bold, unexpected and utterly delicious.

Fun, innovative and pleasingly casual, it’s a bit like visiting friends who really know how to cook. Take it all in inside a brill interior that’s all Sputnik lights, intriguing artwork and mustard-toned finishes. (D5) ul. Wilcza 43

chinese

Pańska 85 Ample in size, the interiors speak of money well spent. This is especially true because despite the luxury trimmings Pańska looks good without ever losing its dignity. With their kitchen staff headhunted from across China, the food sets a standard that has yet to be seen in any Chinese restaurant in Warsaw: there’s delicate salmon rolls wrapped in mango; dim sum that are pouches of pure goodness; and Sichuan-style pork that’s a blaze of sizzle and spice.

The Beijing Duck, carved and served table-side, is the highlight. (B4) ul. Pańska 85, panska85.com Regina Bar Taking their inspiration from New York’s Little Italy and Chinatown, the menu at Regina is the very definition of ethnic comfort food: won-ton dumplings, ribs in sticky hoisin sauce and the best-selling General Tso chicken – famed for its healing properties, it’s one of the best hangover remedies around. On the Italian front, leopard-spotted pizzas land are presented with wheel-bladed knives in a kooky, retro interior featuring a dangling chandelier and the tallest mirror in Poland (possibly). (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, fb.com/Reginabar To Tu Dumpling Bar A shabby looking shack cabin, To Tu offer what are seriously considered some of the best – if not the best – dim sum in town. Magic-ked up by a Manchurian exile, the experience isn’t unlike being in a sweaty back street haunt in Asia. And that’s a good thing! ul. Niekłańska 33, chinskapierogarnia.pl

comfort & street food Hala Gwardii Housed in a red brick hall dating from the Tsarist era, Gwardii opens up as a sensory big bang of smell, taste, sight and sound. Framed by a market on one side, and food units on the other, it’s a catch-all social solution that shines the spotlight on independent vendors offering various cuisines Warsaw ain’t seen before. In terms of tenants, big changes have happened – and continue to happen.

Bye to Keboom, Melt, and countless other editorial faves, hello to the superb Gorilla Coffee. Of the new additions, we’ve been told Ye Ye Mex will be entering anytime soon. (C3) Pl. Mirowska 2, halagwardii.pl Hala Koszyki Nirvana for the aspirational classes, careful surgery has preserved the heritage of this early 20th century marketplace and juxtaposed it against the urban tapestry of modern Warsaw. Appealing to everyone from foodies and families to Instagram scenesters, its success has sparked a nationwide wave of doubles and duplicates. But despite their best efforts, none come close to feeling quite so global. Not ones to stand still, May saw the addition of a narrow indoor avenue towards the back flanked on each side by busy street food stalls. Walking around Koszyki, find all from Korean noodles, Spanish tapas, Mexican burritos, Greek kebabs and so much more. (D6) ul.

Koszykowa 63, koszyki.com Kura Pairing fried chicken with double-fried chunky chips, think of this budget stop as an artisanal take on KFC for the posthipster generation. And best of all, check their homemade sauces: from the tart and spicy Challenger No. 3, to the tangy Mango-BBQ option, these are sauces that open the gateway to addiction. The ultimate definition of comfort food, look on Kura as one of the city’s best examples of street food culture gone right. (B2) ul.

Nowolipki 15, restauracjakura.pl Pogromcy Meatów Yearn no more for the elusive flavor of the backyard BBQ. Specializing in grilled

EAT! Listings meat, find exactly just that loaded into artisan buns alongside locally grown greens. The sense of homespun quality makes this the kind of comfort food that Warsaw has been missing for years. (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, tel. 505 703 508 Postępu 5 Christened Mordor by the despairing employees who head there each working day, the area around Domaniewska doesn’t have the best public image. though, there isn’t just hope, but also a solution to realign the spirit of this quarter. Call it Postępu 5, a collection of street vendors housed in a line of former garages and storage units.

Highlights inc. Blin (for Russian-style pancakes), Hotto Doggu (Japanese hot dogs), and Roger That Foods, a close quarters burger stop immediately identifiable by the monster smoker set outside. ul. Postępu 5, postepu5.pl

fine dining Atelier Amaro If Wojciech Amaro’s eponymous restaurant isn’t the most famous in the country, then it’s certainly the most important.

Awarded Poland’s first Michelin star in 2013, it’s a venue that continues to set the pace in terms of innovation. Changing weekly, his ‘calendar of nature’ seeks to present forgotten ingredients such as little-known berries, herbs and flowers against meats and other ingredients reared or grown at the Atelier farm. One for any bucket list, there are occasions when dining here can feel like an out-of-body experience. Abandoning their original home at the start of 2019, we’re visiting soon to see if anything’s changed in their new city center venue. (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 10/14, atelieramaro.pl Amber Room at the Sobański Palace Set in the pre-war Pałac Sobańskich, this pristine manor house is everything you expect: hushed, lavish, cultured and classy. The food fits the backdrop with a contemporary menu often drawing spontaneous outbreaks of collective joy.

Maze-like in its layout, there’s enough nooks and secret rooms to make Amber Room the ideal address for expense account meetings.(E6) Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, amberroom.pl

Belvedere Łazienki Królewskie Set in an imperial age glass orangery, it’s festooned with intricate latticework and botanical exotica. The updated interiors are the work of acclaimed set designer Boris Kudlicka, and lend a fresh, contemporary tone that goes hand in hand with the menu. But behind the gels and emulsions and pretty little swirls, this is cooking of substantial depth; it’s cooking that takes you to the very soul of Polish nature. (F6) ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. 22 558 6701, belvedere.com.pl Chłodna 15 by Wilamowski Gone are the Alice in Wonderland decorations of the previous tenant, La Maison, replaced instead by a muted charcoal look that’s reassuringly refined – for the time you’re here, you forget you’re on the ground floor of a 70s tower block.

Aiding the amnesia is the classic French cooking of Arkadiusz Wilamowski: small and mercurial in its content, the dailychanging menu is a work of preposterous detail – no sauce takes less than a day to make. (B3) ul. Chłodna 15, choldna15.pl Europejski Grill The flagship restaurant of the Raffles Europejski has cut no corners in their bid to become one of the city’s top restaurants. A seriously swish interior of pearl white colors is teed-up against contemporary flashes (hexagonal lighting, outsized plates hanging from the wall) and gleaming silverware. Enjoying precisely composed dishes such as beetroot tartar or Dover Sole is a welltailored crowd that expects nothing but the best. (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, raffles.com/warsaw

‘Simplicity, elegance and atmosphere’

Cafe • Wine Bar • Restaurant • Whisky Bar • Wine Cellar ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 515 037 001 www.hoza.warszawa.pl www.facebook.com/hoza25 Open 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-21:00

N31 Been there, done it all. That’s Robert Sowa, a national treasure widely hailed for modernizing Poland’s gastronomic sector back in the country’s culinary dark days.

A common sight on TV, the chef’s public profile has meant there’s no shortage of bums on seats in his flagship restaurant, but this is more than a chef trading on his past. A chic city center bubble beloved by business types, the food is first class with Sowa’s international travels reflected by surprises such as flawless tuna partnered with kabayaki sauce, yuzu, wasabi dressing and turnip salad. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 31, n31restaurant.pl warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings

Nolita For many diners, there is no bigger night out than one that begins and ends in this enclave of class. Dashing in its monochrome colors and muted gunmetal shades, Nolita is where Warsaw heads to live the life of the 1%. Lacking the magic tricks of some, the ‘show factor’ might be subdued but the tastes definitely aren’t. Who to credit? Two words: Jacek Grochowina. Cooking with poise and focus, his menu is a marriage of the classic and creative, with core ingredients given unexpected lifts with cunning turns and inspired little twists: maybe some yuzu with the tartare or konbu with the eel. (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel.

22 292 0424, nolita.pl Senses Diners are best advised to leave logic outside. Inspired by the idea of ‘note-by-note’ cooking, Italian-born chef Andrea Camastra isolates and extracts molecules from ingredients to obtain the purest flavors before matching them up with unlikely partners. What unfolds is a dazzling show of near illusory brilliance; the technical proficiency of the kitchen is exceptional and makes the WTF prices easier to swallow. Wrap-up the evening with a pungent, edible cigar. (C2) ul. Bielańska 12, tel. 22 331 9697, sensesrestaurant.pl

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Signature If you thought hotel restaurants were the mundane realm of business travelers then you haven’t visited Signature.

The design incorporates architectural elements from the times this functioned as the Soviet Embassy, Oswald chairs and photos of Marilyn shot by Milton Greene. Then, along comes the food, a sophisticated pan-European event with occasional Polish accents. Dessert, especially the mille-feuille, should not be missed. (D5) ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 55 38755, signaturerestaurant.pl

french

L’Arc Looking elegant with its black/white floors and subtle decorations bills at L’Arc can become big number affairs – especially if you hanker for seafood. Pick from numerous types of oysters or delve into the fish tank for the lobster of your choosing. The catchment area extends beyond the borders of Mokotów, not just because of their ‘fresh from France’ seafood, but because of classic dishes such as Mulard duck and Burgundy snails.

(E8) ul. Puławska 16, larc.pl

georgian Rioni Warsaw’s foodies like talking of ‘cursed locations’, and they don’t get more hexed than Mokotowska 17. But despite its history of failed ventures, Rioni feel better placed than most to break the jinx. Set in a curving brick room lit by dangling overhead bulbs, join a young-ish crowd for juicy Georgian dumplings oozing with meat and herbs, hearty soups and big, doughy wheels of cheese-filled chaczapuri. (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17, rioni.pl Rusiko To the uninitiated, Georgian food is representative of the heart, spirit and passion of its people; it’s a cuisine that values the concept of the feast: wine, laughter and song find themselves elevated to roles of primary importance. A food of life, spice and whole-hearted tastes, consider Rusiko as the best ambassador there is for this surprisingly diverse kitchen. Note: closed Monday. (E5) Al. Ujazdowskie 22, tel.

22 629 0628, rusiko.pl

greek & turkish Maho Maho feels like it’s located at the end

EAT! Listings of the earth – but its distance deters no-one, least of all its army of hardcore followers. Why are they there? The answer is a Turkish grill that takes you right to the heart of this glorious cuisine. Highly recommended is the Iskender kebab: layers of juicy doner meat served with scoops of fresh tomato sauce and fresh, thin pide bread straight from the wood-fired oven.

While you’re there, you may as well stock up on imported goodies from their adjoining store. Al. Krakowska 240/242, maho.com.pl Santorini Santorini looks scuffed and tired but there’s a bonhomie present that instantly engages. The kitchen attaches no value to things like presentation, preferring instead to simply treat diners to piles of grilled and skewered food that consistently tastes right. ul. Egipska 7, tel. 22 672 0525, kregliccy.pl/santorini/

indian Bollywood Lounge Known for their raucous dusk-till-dawn parties, there is another less hedonistic roll filled by Bollywood: that of a restaurant. The menu is an uncomplicated, classic affair that’s an ideal primer for the party ahead. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, tel. 22 827 0283, bollywoodlounge.pl

Curry House Ask for something extra hot in Curry House and by Suresh that’s what you’ll get. Yet at Curry House there is more to sing about than just Poland’s highest voltage vindaloo. The curries are rich and sumptuous and consistently cited as among the best in the city. If in doubt, the chicken tikka masala is a fail-safe request. ul. Żeromskiego 81 & ul. Hoża 54, curry-house.pl

Bombaj Masala Not just the best looking of Warsaw’s Indian restaurants, Bombaj Masala also has some of the best cooking. With so many restaurants reliant on one ‘master pot’ for their curry, this classy venue feels unique in delivering a variety of rich, intense tastes. The vindaloo is a special standout, with big, punchy flavors that leave you tingling long after you leave.

(B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 606 688 777, bombajmasala.pl

Curry Leaf The post-industrial style is diluted by the number of Indian trinkets hanging off the vents and pipes. Owned by the same crew behind the lauded Curry House, you’d be completely correct to assume consistency and excellence. ul. Conrada 5, curryleaf.pl

Discover the True Taste of India in Several Locations around Warsaw WWW.CURRY-HOUSE.PL

HOŻA 54

ŻEROMSKIEGO 81

KONDRATOWICZA 59

536 443 771

508 870 774

789 444 921

(Śródmieście)

(Stare Bielany)

(Targówek)

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EAT! Listings you’re in luck, find meals complimented with additional chili concoctions made by the chef. Pl. Niemena 1, indiantaste.pl Guru Moving into the space vacated by the lamentable BrewDog pub, Guru joins the city’s (very) shortlist of higher end Indians. The menu is a union of local, seasonal ingredients (organic this, farmyard that) and imported spices, coming together to blast the competition out of the water. From the openers, the chili chicken fry stands out as a dish that’s all snap and crackle, while of the mains the tikka masala is exceptional in taste. Plus points for Indian-themed cocktails that really hit the mark – easily one of our favorite openings of 2018. (D4) ul. Widok 8, gururestauracja.pl House of Curry Heat seekers can ‘enjoy’ a genuine deathby-fire experience at House of Curry, though far milder curries are available for more sensitive palettes – either way, the experience is fantastic, and good news for those stuck out in the depths of Józefów. ul. Patriotów 11 A, house-of-curry.pl Indian Taste Set within a new residential complex on the border of Żoliborz, this smart-looking labor of love presents traditional favorites alongside lesser-known choices such as mango chicken and lamb amritsari. If

Mandala This long-standing legend is known for its ample portions and online delivery service. Sitting down, the creamy mutton methi is a masterpiece, and the Madras recognized for its blitzing big spices.

Their latest operation, set out on Sienna, is open for Indian-style breakfast. ul.

Emilii Plater 9/11 / ul. Etiudy Rewolucyjnej 9 & ul. Sienna 87, mandalaklub.com or indiaexpress.pl Rasoi A cheerful neighborhood style prevails in Rasoi, a friendly restaurant whose positive vibe is expressed via a design that mixes white wooden furnishings against a positive outbreak of colorful cushions. The North Indian food has a habit of raising spirits with its bold spices and authentic style. (C5) ul. Chmielna 98, rasoi.pl Smak Curry There’s been a nationwide pandemic of average Indian restaurants, but despite the rather slim menu Smak Curry can’t be included in that list of disappointments. On the contrary, what the menu lacks in size it compensates in taste: from big, walloping whacks of lavishly spiced pork Madras to sweet but subtle

A MODERN BISTRO IN WARSAW'S MURANÓW Jana Pawła II 45a, lok. 38, Tel: 666 043 043 kromkibistro.pl fb.com/kromkibistro

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mango chicken, here’s a restaurant that feels it genuinely adds something extra to a saturated market. Complimented by bright, modern interiors and sunny, friendly wait staff, it’s a place that makes a blue day feel that extra bit better. (E8) ul.

Belwederska 44

indonesian Warung Jakarta The menu has a street food edge and is divided into steps wherein diners first pick out their choice of protein, then their rice, before concluding with any vegetables add-ons (e.g. pak choy, green beans or water spinach). While most Warsaw restaurants have a special lunch scheme going on, Warung’s is one that actually warrants a further look: find truly great off-menu dishes that are highly accessible to all levels of income.

(D6) ul. Piękna 28/34

international Ale Wino Blurring the lines between wine bar and restaurant, the style is easy, breezy and powerfully magnetic – occupying a spread of atmospheric rooms to the back of a Mokotowska courtyard, seats are sometimes hard to come by. The reason: chef Sebastian Wełpa. Of the recent highlights, the rump of lamb with horseradish puree, marinated carrot and bison grass sauce stands out as one of the Insider’s top meals of 2018.

(F5) ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 628 3830, alewino.pl Aurelio Run by a ‘neuro-gastronomist’, Aurelio aims to connect art and emotions with health and wellbeing via the medium of food. Psychobabble aside, what you’ll find is a beautifully laid-out restaurant with some mesmerizing art, a busy cultural program and a globally-inspired menu based on toxin free produce. For instance, order up a Thai-style duck breast served with orange-ginger puree, elderflower foam and smoked plum sauce – it’s likely you’ll be impressed.

(D4) ul. Świętokrzyska 14, aurelio.pl

EAT! Listings Bazar Kocha Designed to evoke the spirit of a farmers’ market, the woodsy interior is filled with stall-style units neatly stacked with jars and pots. Yet these are not decorative decoys, but part of a thoughtful grocery offer aimed at showcasing Kocha’s own-made produce. Above all though, this is a restaurant whose menu is strongly influenced by concepts of ‘terroir’. The giant leg of lamb falls off the bone and is a dish to recommend and remember for several months to come. (D6) ul.

Mokotowska 33, bazarkocha.pl Bez Tytułu Gosh. Co-owned by the Kasia Michalski Gallery to the flank, the restaurant feels like a natural extension: find contemporary art and photography set against raw brickwork while pendant bulbs cast a soft light down. Onto the important stuff, and Erwan Debono’s menu makes much of his native French background as well as Poland’s own rich access to produce.

The results come together in a way that’s nuanced and subtle. (D5) ul. Poznańska 16, beztytulu.com Bibenda The menu declares Bibenda to be ‘a celebration of food, drink and togetherness’, and that’s precisely what it is.

Augmenting the warm, busy interiors are a thoughtful selection of craft beers and a concise menu that varies from monthto-month. The apparent simplicity of the food is illusory and belies the kitchen’s knack for spotting interesting combinations such as goose with pumpkin puree, cranberry / red wine jam and chili caramelized beetroot. Not everything goes to plan, and consistency is an issue, but Bibenda’s general approval ratings show no signs of waning. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 10, tel. 502 770 303, bibenda.pl Brasserie Warszawska Looking for classic cuisine with no daft flights of fancy? Here you have it. At a time when everyone wants to be Ferran Adrià, Brasserie has both a menu and interior that you can understand: panfried foie gras; elegant beef Rossini; and sinful apple tarte tatin, all served inside posh interiors of zinc-plated mirrors and chessboard floors. Their Michelin Bib Gourmand is a source of pride, but it’s the number of repeat clients that are the

ultimate paean to the skills of the chef.

(E5) ul. Górnośląska 24, tel. 22 628 9423, brasseriewarszawska.pl Bubbles Occupying a small, square room, it’s intimate and relaxed: a place busy with blackboards and bottles, crates and clutter. It radiates warmth and honesty.

The food is exquisite, and includes big, meaty snails farmed in Mazury, and their signature dish: Swiss-style raclette.

Presented on a wooden chopping board, this cheese dish is classic melty goodness, and served alongside a pile of potatoes, onions marinated with caramel and candied pumpkin. Considering the place doubles as a champagne bar the prices are remarkably moderate. (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 512 540 913, bubbles. com.pl Der Elefant This leviathan restaurant unravels in a maze of wrought iron and monochrome tiles – beautiful to look at (it was created

by Oscar-winning set designer Allan Starski), it’s caused a stir for more than just this alone. Where once the menu looked like it was devised by throwing darts at a cookbook, the focus has now been narrowed. While some of the dishes are strictly middling, the filet mignon (zł.

69) is one of the best meat deals in town in terms of quality / price / consistency. (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, tel. 22 890 0010, derelefant.com Dom Here’s the very epitome of casual dining: set on the ground floor of a suburban house, the warm corners and garden views give Dom a real sense of homey charm. In line with all that is a menu that celebrates simple, honest cooking. Everyone who visits ends up loving the place. ul.

Mierosławskiego 12, tel. 509 165 712 Drukarnia Wrapped inside an ugly 1950s facade, this former printing house unravels to expose a sensational interior high on retro pieces: jagged-shaped stone floor tiles, a red neon and stern Socialist era statuettes lend a heavy PRL accent, though the big statement at Drukarnia is supplied courtesy of the architecture itself. Tall windows, high ceilings and a peculiar spiral staircase that disappears

into nowhere collude to lend Drukarnia a sense of light, space and depth. The food: limited choice of European standards cooked with competence. If you’re in the area, worth a look ul. Mińska 65, drukarnianapradze.pl Dyletanci Filled with crisp, modern citizens that radiate confidence, Dyletanci introduces itself as a bistro set with green banquettes and Tom Dixon lamps. The wine selection is among the best in the nation, while the cooking has been left to Rafał Hreczaniuk, a workaholic chef with outrageous talent. His zander fillet thrills with every bite. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44A, dyletanci.pl Fest Port Czerniakowski Bring out the clichés: at Fest quality rules over quantity. Food-wise, there’s not much to choose from, but it’s doubtful you’ll find better ribs for a few hundred miles.

Cooked outdoors on a beast of a smoker, these are glorious things of atavistic joy.

Improving the mood yet further is the backdrop, a timber cabin in a wooded part of Warsaw. There’s nowhere else like it.

(G6) ul. Zaruskiego 8 First Floor Restaurant Chic, elegant touches combine with a fully open kitchen visible from practically all angle. Live music is an inseparable element of the First Floor experience, with blues, hazz and Latino performances scheduled every weekend. ul. Kasprzaka 31 (Varsovia Apartamenty), firstfloorrest.pl GarMasz Combining the functions of a store, butchery and, above all, a restaurant, GarMasz is the creation of Piotr Pielichowski, a cook best-known for his appearances on the Polish edition of Master Chef. A keen promoter of natural ingredients and fancy delicacies, his restaurant is stunning in every respect: three years in the making, even the interiors will blow you away.

Designed by Gdańsk-based architect Krystian Rassmus, details include oak finishes, 18th century tiling and swish chandeliers. Full report soon. (E4) ul.

Kopernika 5 Kieliszki Na Hożej Set on the corner of an ornate pre-war building, Kieliszki casts a warm, beckoning warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings glow on the street outside – resisting its charms is entirely impossible. The cooking is just as seductive and sees Polish mainstays such as dumplings, tartare and herring given a 21st century update.

Superb wines, all of which are available by the glass, round out the experience. (D5) ul.

Hoża 41, kieliszkinahozej.pl Kromki Muranów: a.k.a. The Black Hole of Dining.

Actually, that’s no longer the case, and that’s due to a flurry of openings in the last year or two. Kromki, no doubt, is one of the picks of the bunch. Set amid a row of kebab stores and booze outlets, the quality of this diamond in the rough exceeds all expectations. The menu – global with a local twist – covers every angle possible: from nourishing bowls of healthy goodness to ribeye steaks that land with a shudder. Al. Jana Pawła II 45A La Brasserie Modern The interior of Didier Gomez whispers intimacy, yet it also embraces notions of space and light. The casual elegance that emanates from the design is accented by warm colors, low banquettes and glinting mirrors. The menu fits seamlessly with the surrounds: a fresh, modern look at French cuisine, but one that values clarity and simplicity. (D3) ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8332, sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com Lente There’s a valid reason for the optimism swirling around Hoża, not least the launch of venues such as Lente. Revamping Mediterranean cuisine for the 21st century diner, this casual spot feels suitably bright and sunny. Featuring the talented Terry Price in the kitchen, food here shines a spotlight on tapas and sharing plates and has thus far met with widespread approval. Full report soon!

(D5) ul. Hoża 43/49 Loft Color, that’s what Loft has. It’s everywhere – from the design,

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which is all bubble shaped lights and splashy, bright cushions, to the drinks: extravagant cocktails that possibly glow in the dark. The menu is full of playful experimentation, something reflected by a seasonal menu that has, in the past, presented such choices as chicken with strawberries. (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 668 016 964, restauracjaloft.pl MOD BEST WAWA 2018 “Casual Dining” Where odd couplings are concerned, MOD takes the biscuit: hip donut store by day, at night it morphs into a cool restaurant whose card veers between steaming bowls of ramen and inventive modern dishes that harness the chef’s classic French training (think: beef cheeks with gremolata, tahini mash, veal jus and caramelized sprouts). It’s crazy popular with creative types touting man buns and t-shirts that threaten: “I Shoot Hipsters”. (D6) ul. Oleandrów 8, fb.com/ MODOleandrow8 Mokolove A clear U-turn from the chef’s recent fine dining background (formerly the sous at Nolita, should you ask), there’s something welcoming and warm about this Mokotów venture. Already, you feel a familiarity in the air, not to mention a care and attention towards both produce and punters. The menu, meanwhile, speaks for the need of comfort with its offer of pizza, pastas and seasonal dishes such as pumpkin soup. But wait! The Insider was left disappointed on its latest visit in Jan. So say our notes: “mediocre service, empty restaurant and wrong order delivered!”

(E9) ul. Różana 14, fb.com/RestauracjaMokolove Mokotowska 69 Set inside a rotunda at the tail end of the street, it’s a place that exudes elegance and class. Most of all, however, it’s a restaurant to be enjoyed. Brought to you by the same team credited for Merliniego 5, Mokotowska’s appreciation of steak has been lifted from their elder sister. Yet the virtues of this restaurant extend beyond steak alone: the Insider enjoyed a volley of greats – creamy breaded calf brains, sophisticated smoked eel, and Mazurian crayfish served in a deep, joyous sauce of rowan berry and brandy. (E5) ul.

Mokotowska 69, mokotowska69.com

Opasły Tom The ground floor – all swanky lighting and navy blue seating – is often packed, so it’s downstairs you may head to an intimate space more reminiscent of the original location formerly found on Foksal: here, it’s about muted colors and reassuring shadow. Characterized by its balanced, nuanced flavors and thoughtful combinations, the first menu to debut at this relaunched restaurant sees a medley of dishes you demand to eat again: pumpkin and curd dumplings served in a cheese sauce being the prime example. (D2) ul.

Wierzbowa 9

PamPam Large spaces, high ceilings, globe-shaped bulbs and plush rouge furnishings lend a sense of refinement to PamPam, a feeling that’s in line with a sophisticated menu that promises much with elegantly presented dishes such as sea bass with herbal curry sauce and oyster mushrooms. (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 9/11, pampam. com.pl Pink Lobster The door clatters shut to divulge a narrow space of tall palm fronds and marble finishes underneath soaring ceilings that seem to stretch on forever. Bursts of flamingo pink colors lend a dapper sense of dazzle to this polished-looking venue. Food is an upscale work that, in spite of the Lobster’s name, awards equal importance to land and sea. Beautifully plated, dishes that the Insider fell for inc. sea bass ceviche, an exquisite exhibition of complex tastes set down in a slash of green on a plate that could pass for a work of sculpture. Immaculate roe deer and a series of extravagant desserts also won praise. (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, pinklobster.pl Plato Conceived as a ‘smart casual’ restaurant, it’s a reasonably compact space with a modern style and incandescent bulbs hanging from a complex cat’s cradle of interweaving wires: classy but nothing too flashy or flamboyant. Then there’s the menu, a strange work that sees Spanish influences brushing shoulders next to Polish and Asian. It sounds silly

EAT! Listings and preposterous but my God it works.

December saw us wowed by beef tartar cut from Polish Hereford, an aromatic oriental broth, and a refined halibut encircled with sage pesto, redcurrants and fresh almonds. Stunning. ul. Klimczaka 1 (Royal Wilanow), restauracjaplato.pl Restauracja Warszawska BEST WAWA 2018 “Newcomer” Humongous in size, the vast spaces and lack of natural light never feel an issue. Loaded with slick finishes and polished raw materials, find this subterranean venue unraveling amid the giant original foundations that support this pre-war skyscraper.

Divided into ‘snacks’, ‘plates’, ‘sides’ and ‘desserts’, big shouts go for the golden schnitzel as well as the spicy pork dumplings served in a vibrant essence of paprika. It’s not a big menu, but it doesn’t need to be: exceptional in every

respect, this restaurant has become one of foodie Warsaw’s biggest talking points.

Upscale-casual has rarely felt this good.

(D4) Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9 (Hotel Warszawa), warszawa.hotel.com.pl Rozbrat 20 BEST WAWA 2018 “Neo-Bistro” This busy neo-bistro fuses upmarket, casual styling with an exciting wine list, interactive service and the kind of atmosphere you can’t get enough of. Under chef Bartosz Szymczak’s leadership, Rozbrat’s grown to become one of the blogospheres favorite write-ups. Never the same, if there’s a consistent thread to visits then it’s the playful inventiveness that has come to define Szymczak’s cooking. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 20, rozbrat20.com.pl Soul Kitchen Bistro If the previous venue was all slanted towards low-pitched business conversation then the new one is positively festive

in comparison: scuffed brickwork, tall bar stools, a long communal table, etc.

The seasonal menu is a pick-and-mix of small-to-medium plates, including a halibut gravlax, whose delicate taste juxtaposes well against the rougher, earthier kick of the radish, and crayfish presented in a bird’s nest of green beans, fennel and leek. For mains, look for the braised beef. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 18A, soulkitchen.pl Stixx It’s easy to distrust a menu with such international diversity, but the kitchen crew really make it come together: the Indian section is particularly outstanding. Then there’s the design, a balance between slick corporate and sexy cosmopolitan: with the Warsaw Spire towering above it outside, it’s the kind of address to take any new arrival who still thinks of Poland as being backward. (A4) Pl. Europejski 4A, tel. 22 340 4040, stixx.pl

Modern take on Italian cuisine Focaccia Ristorante Senatorska 13/15, Warsaw/Old Town +48 22 829 69 69, restauracja@focaccia.pl www.focaccia.pl

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EAT! Listings Strefa If there’s a dining room in heaven, then it probably looks like Strefa – only marginally less white. Pure and pristine, the swan-like elegance of the interior whispers dignity and decorum.

Immaculate and refined, it’s a soothing atelier with a rarefied air. Mostly though, it’s the food that people talk about. Citing Nordic cuisine as his primary influence, the chef has honed a menu of note which, on our November visit, included a deep and soothing mushroom soup that brought to mind Poland’s dark autumn forest. The tastes are clear and true and say much for a chef that has his brain switched on. (C3) ul. Próżna 9, tel. 22 255 0850, restauracjastrefa.pl Supperlardo Run as a side project by Mąka i Woda (quite literally – it’s right next door), it’s a stylish-looking spot that’s fresh, contemporary and even a little edgy: for evidence, refer to a mural designed by Swansky, a local big gun on the street art scene. As for the menu, that’s a riotously meaty romp that involves wood-fired hams, sandwiches composed of pork belly pastrami and salt-cured meats from Puławska and Mangalica pigs. With orders taken at the counter, it’s a place that lifts the canteen concept to new, unseen heights. (D4) ul. Chmielna 13A, fb.com/ Supperlardo Warszawski Sznyt Warsaw’s historic center is rightly glorified for many reasons – its restaurants, however, are not one of them. In fact, there’s probably nowhere in the city with a higher concentration of sub-par efforts. Aiming to redress the balance are Sznyt, an ambitious venue with swank interiors overlooking the Royal Castle, and a kitchen staff headhunted from blue ribbon venues such as Salto and Amaro.

Set over two floors (one focused on Polish cuisine, the other on ‘international’), the pride of the house is afforded to the wood-fired grill. (D2) ul. Senatorska 2, warszawskisznyt.pl White One The changing face of Koszykowa street is almost embodied by White One – where once stood a disintegrating tenement stands a revamped building with a super swanky ground floor restaurant. Ideal

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for those nights you want to make an impression, interiors are well-spaced, smart and modern but never too intimidating. The pared-down menu is fully reflective of contemporary dining trends: innovations include a 5-course vegan tasting menu, as well as a 7-course menu entirely dependent on the whims of the chef – you won’t know what’s in store till it lands on the table! Full review soon.

(D6) ul. Koszykowa 47, whiteone.pl Winsky Points are earned for an edgy selection of ‘tap wines’ and a menu of small plates that are Polish in spirit but not short on international twists and turns. The design, with its deep sofas and plush, dark fabrics, is refined and considered while the riverside views pure sunset bliss.

Ideal for dating. (F4) ul. Wioślarska 10

italian Altro Locale Set in a quiet section of Old Mokotów, it’s little wonder the plaudits haven’t ceased.

Owned by chef Andrea Carillo, authentic, homespun tastes vie for attention inside a charming space that’s chic and modern but never spartan. You can tell Carillo has invested his heart and soul in this venture, and the result is an ever-changing menu featuring lamb chops, sirloin, and sea bream done the Italian way – don’t think you’ll be getting any pizza here!

Fittingly, its reputation is now extending beyond the district’s natural border. (E8) ul. Willowa 9 Ave Pizza The argument over who serves Warsaw’s best pizza goes right to the wire, but there’s no doubting that Ave Pizza are up there on the leaderboard. Set across a sparse, metropolitan area, this fashionable L-shaped joint comes endorsed by the capital’s notoriously picky Italian community. Order the pillowy calzone and you’ll soon learn why. (E3) ul. Topiel 12, tel.

22 828 8507, avepizza.pl Dziurka od Klucza An enchanting locale in which enigmatic, lavender-painted doors sit embedded into the walls, as if waiting to be magically opened by the mysterious keys that hang

from the numerous interior details.

Set with empty picture frames and cotton }ball lights, interiors just don’t get any cuter. As for food, the concise, daily-changing menu is centered around homemade pasta – pride of place is given to the black colored pasta served with seafood. (E3) ul. Radna 13, tel. 500 150 494 Focaccia The big surprise at Focaccia is that there’s no Italian in the kitchen – it appears they don’t need one. Looking splendid in its crystal white colors, this dining room has plaudits aplenty for its selection of pizzas and more sophisticated mains: order the duck breast with marsala sauce for a failsafe choice. (D2) ul. Senatorska 13/15, tel. 22 829 6969, focaccia.pl Mąka i Woda Purists applaud an approach that uses a custom-made oven from Naples and imported ingredients such as 00 Caputo flour and DOP certified San Marzano tomatoes. Scrupulously authentic, it’s no wonder that it’s packed to the gunnels every night of the week – even their Facebook page warns of 20-minute waiting times for a table alone. (D4) ul.

Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 91 87 Otto Pompieri If you judge pizzerias on choice then Otto Pompieri’s modest count of eleven pizzas doesn’t promise much – but then it arrives. At zł. 21 for 42 centimeters, the margherita offers the best value per sq/cm than anything out here, while the artichoke pizza reveals itself in an orgy of melty virtue. The retro Little Italy look is rounded out by a cooking brigade that engage in banter and bravado while spinning dough in the air: it feels and tastes ideal. (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, fb.com/ otto.pompieri Posypane A casual restaurant with handmade pasta made fresh on the day and a choice that includes ravioli with chorizo and shrimp, bucatini Bolognese with seasoned beef and rosemary, and a creamy mushroom pappardelle. Then, adding to the sense of being somewhere young, fun and a little bit hip, is an edgy design featuring a wall of kitchen implements, hanging ropes and exposed concrete. In an area already rife with niche eateries aimed at the modern

EAT! Listings day Varsovian, Posypane feels like a satisfying addition. (D5) ul. Hoża 43/49 Prosciutteria Powiśle Buzzing with warmth, here an interior composed of pre-war floor tiles, exposed brickwork, and black and white images of Italian icons sets a casually good mood that’s sustained by the owners. They’re knowledgeable, as well. If Prosciutteria feels good, then it tastes even better.

Based around cold cuts, find heavy wooden boards loaded with imported delicacies from small producers that the couple have befriended: Ubriaco cheese bathed in Prosecco; pork belly fat drycured for six months; salami from Milan and Naples… There’s more, of course, but it all becomes one in this orgy of pleasure.

(F4) ul. Solec 85

japanese Arigator This Japanese-style noodle joint whisks you to the narrow, steamy back alleys of late night Tokyo. Clad in corrugated iron and dark, weathered wooden slats, it’s got that buzzing sense of chaos that feels familiar from the films. And the food, gosh, they get that right as well.

From a tiny menu order up dainty pork dumplings, braised kakuni bacon or deep-fried tofu before hitting up a feisty bowl of ramen emanating life-affirming goodness. A complex tangle of interlacing flavors, it’s the sort of dish you’d happily queue up for: and yes, people do. (D6) ul.

Piękna 54 Benihana Fire, flash, show and sizzle: the Benihana experience merges cooking with cabaret with diners sat ringside around teppanyaki grills. These cooking stations are the stage for the Benihana crew to demonstrate their riveting range of nifty knifework and daredevil antics. Outside of the realm of the grill, the sushi also strikes the right note. (C4) ul. Twarda 2/4, benihanapoland.com Fat Buddha Immense in size, there’s a confident feeling of decadent ostentation: with light kept at bay by vast mulberry-colored drapes, what would otherwise appear as an over-

sized hall feels intimate and sensual, dark and delicious. Japanese in spirit, the menu pitches a refined selection of exceptional dishes – elaborate dragon rolls; delicate gyoza; and beef tataki that’s lightly seared and thinly sliced. It’s all perfect. (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 2/4 Mizu Rarely does a restaurant meet with such unanimous approval, and while the name of Mizu remains unknown among the majority, those In The Know have been crowing about it for a good couple of years. Irresistible, immaculate and imaginative, this is sushi the likes of which the capital has never seen before – there’s a magic here that makes the knees go wobbly. Touting a modern-minimal look, the off-center location in a former factory since requisitioned by ad agencies adds to the sensation of dining somewhere a little under-the-radar: to eat here is to visit one of Warsaw’s great whispered secrets. ul. Duchnicka 3, mizusushi.pl Sato Gotuje Signposted by its own splash of Mangastyle art adorning the exterior wall, this Commie era pavilion feels small and squashed and assembled on a budget.

Who cares? No-one. An exciting departure from the norm – no sushi here – the menu is a selection of bitey Japanese street food such as grilled mackerel fillet with shavings of grated radish. Prices and quality ensure you don’t stop until you’ve gobbled your way through much of the menu. ul. Pawińskiego 24 Shoku Most places that claim to serve fusion do so because of an identity crisis. At Shoku, though, the mix and match approach when it comes to Asia (if it’s tasty, stick it on the menu!) feels rational and put together. Never short of custom, locals gather inside a bright, contemporary space to slurp down bowls of ramen, share shoku bowls or click chopsticks over small plates of dim sum and wonton.

Come summer, the scene ramps up a notch with diners flocking to a prim garden area that’s billiard green in color.

(A4) ul. Karolkowa 30, shoku.pl Uki Uki How much do the locals appreciate Warsaw’s original udon bar? Enough to queue warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings outside the door? That’s right. Dining is a close quarters experience here, but is done so without complaint: that electric pasta maker turns out noodles of such chewy goodness that everyone leaves beaming. (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, tel. 728 827 705, ukiuki.pl Wabu Sushi becomes a heaven’s gate spiritual experience in Wabu with the evening passing in a blur of beautiful compositions, of silky slithers of fish crowned with expert pinches of this, and little brush strokes of that. That’s all elevated even further by deliciously upscale interiors befitting of the Spire location. (A4) Pl. Europejski 2 (Warsaw Spire), wabu.pl

korean The Cool Cat Proving something other than just a faddish flash in the fire, The Cool Cat has caught the zeitgeist by the horns and come to represent the hip Powiśle style; casual and convivial and absent of aloofness, it’s a place in which all life seems to gather for a taste of good times.

Refusing to take themselves too seriously, the angle is fun and forward-thinking, something that’s evidenced by way of an occasionally wacky menu of Americanized Asian food: the K-Fries (a big messy mass of kimchi, chips, bulgogi beef) are spot on.

(F4) ul. Solec 38, tel. 787 698 700 Koreanka A courtyard cubbyhole that’s scuffed, informal and fashionably ramshackle.

Such has been the stir created by it, diners arrive in the knowledge that they’ll be scavenging a table and eating what little might be leftover from another sell-out day. Yet here’s the point of contention: is it really all that’s cracked up? The kimchi is exemplary, but not everything works so well. Though raved about by Warsaw’s Instagrammers, we were left disenchanted by the shallow, empty tastes of the bulgogi. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 59 KoreaTown Rest Here, the ubiquitous KFC (Korean fried chicken) is all crunch and crackle and the bulgogi tender, juicy and the right side of sweet; accompanying them, an assort-

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ment of bitey dishes heaving with chilli flecked kimchi, daikon radish and pickled bits and bobs. All very good, but nothing compared to the bossam, braised pork belly scooped up by hand inside glistening perilla leaves: it’s a dish that soothes, gratifies and leaves diners looking every bit as pleased as the pipe-smoking tiger that gazes from the wall. (E9) ul. Olesińska 2, fb.com/KoreaTownRest Miss Kimchi Cheap and cheerful Korean street food served in a small, steamy space that’s frequently packed to the rafters. Box sets come piled high with meat, rice and veg.

The spotlight falls on the bibimbap, a satisfying mess of shredded veg, lively spices, a fried egg and beef bulgogi. This is replenishment in its truest form. (B4) ul. Żelazna 58/62, tel. 570 186 066 Yache Korea Though primarily known as the capital of Warsaw’s craft beer scene, Nowogrodzka is beginning to demonstrate that she’s more than just a one-trick pony.

Helping the food angle is this newbie, a steamy little venue that’s all clatter and commotion. Design barely goes beyond a wall of potted plants, but with a place of this size all you need is four people and presto, you’ve got an atmosphere. On the food front, the crispy chicken embraces the seoul (ha!) like comfort food at its best, and the bulgogi the best we’ve had this year – not bad going seeing there’s not a Korean in the kitchen. (D5) ul.

Nowogrodzka 25

latin & spanish

Ceviche Bar BEST WAWA 2018 “Ethnic Dining” With chef Martin Gimenez Castro injecting his passion and personality into the venue, this is an address that punches through the greyness of everyday Warsaw. Ceviche – raw fish marinated in citrus juices and cilantro – is the default order, with the Atun one of the best sell-

ers: chunks of tuna given a rich zing with the addition of chili, lime and roasted coriander. The Japanese influence on South America’s dining habits isn’t forgotten either, with must-haves including the the salmon tiraditos: served with teriyaki and sweet potato mash, it’s a joy of satisfying sensations: sweet, dreamy, spicy, creamy.

(C4) ul. Twarda 4, cevichebar.pl Tapas Gastrobar The popular practice is to order so many plates and bottles that the table becomes a Magic Eye of kaleidoscope patterns.

A great place for sharing and general interaction, the ambiance and quality belies the corporate anonymity of the location. Though the gazapcho is first class it’s bettered by the patatas bravos: fried potatoes in a ballsy tomato sauce.

(A4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 251 1310, tapasbar.pl

mexican Dos Tacos Who doesn’t like asking for something that’s ‘under the counter’. In the case of Dos Tacos, doing so means inquiring about their range of ‘salsa clandestinas’: extra hot sauces designed for reckless thrill-seekers. But the true secret weapon at Dos Tacos is Isabel Balderas, a Mexican chef that has mastered the bright, bold tastes of her native country. This cuisine has enjoyed a breakout year in Warsaw, but while the millennials clamor over new food trucks and funky little start-ups, Dos Tacos is a timely reminder that the old guard sometimes know best. (D4) ul.

Jasna 22, tel. 22 243 4618, dostacos.pl Gringo Bar A Mexican wave is upon us, and high time too. After years of suffering frozen ingredients, timid flavors and daft Mariachi music to persuade us it’s all authentic, a raft of new cut-price eateries are showing the rest how it’s done.

Cooked and folded by fist bumping lads in back-to-front caps and baggy t-shirts, the food at Gringo is fiery, fresh and full of zing. There are detractors who claim this is a Polonized version of this cuisine, but the informal Gringo remains one of the market leaders. (E9) ul. Odolańska 15, tel.

22 848 9523, gringobar.pl

EAT! Listings La Sirena You don’t even have to think twice when asked to name the best Mexican in the capital. Inspired by the ultra-violent films of Danny Trejo, the hardcore interior heaves with machetes, holy shrines, skulls and wire mesh; but if La Sirena looks fab, it tastes even better.

Introducing a new dimension to Warsaw’s parched Mexican landscape, highlights inc. poblano peppers stuffed with pork/ beef, peach, apple and apricots, as well as a ‘near death’ salsa that’s finally living up to its name. (D5) ul. Piękna 54

middle eastern

Le Cedre With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoalgrilled lamb chops. (E1) Al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166, lecedre.pl

Le Cedre 84 Le Cedre just keep on getting it right.

Authenticity is key in this chainlette (well, there’s another across the river), as you’ll discover when talking to Tony, the Lebanese owner. To see the diversity of this cuisine, order the balbaak (six cold starters) or the byblos (six hot). And food aside, it’s the atmosphere that carries them that extra yard: the whole philosophy of this cuisine is to share and share alike, making it a uniquely engaging experience when dining with friends. (B3) Al. Solidarności 84, tel. 22 618 8999, lecedre.pl

Le Cedre Lounge Furnished in voluptuous Middle Eastern style, the latest subsidiary of the Le Cedre

empire bursts with fancy sheesha pipes, extravagant rugs and shimmery satin drapes. It’s a look that’s fun, familiar, intimate and warm. Less encyclopedic than that of its two sister ventures, Le Cedre Lounge has a slimmer menu that introduces several new tastes to fans of Lebanese cuisine. Helplessly more-ish, it’s food that’s in line with the vibey atmosphere and casual air. (C4) ul.

Grzybowska 5A, lecedre.pl

20% off Lunch (food only) from Monday to Friday at Le Cèdre Lounge & Le Cèdre 84

Maghreb Featuring the casual air of good times, head to Maghreb for vibrant Moroccan classics such as merguez sausages and tajine dishes served in traditional earthenware vessels. With the first chills of winter lapping at the door, it’s a restaurant that provides solace and reassurance. ul.

Burakowska 9, maghreb.pl Shuk Located behind Hala Banacha in this gradually blooming district of Warsaw, SHUK’s certainly worth the tram ride if you’re not a native Ochotian. An offshoot of the acclaimed Mezze, highlights on our visit included a well-seasoned Arabic soup with lentils and spinach followed by a skillet of fried oyster mushrooms cooked with onions and served alongside harissa topped with rose petals. You’re looking at quite a special place that realigns your mojo on an ashen Warsaw day. ul. Grójecka 127 Sokotra Casting a warm, steamy glow over this corner of Wilcza, Sokotra is a welldesigned nook with a rough, urban edge: telegraph poles, bare bulbs and exposed lumps of concrete. Yemeni dishes are available though it’s the Indian food that shines – the Madras is intense, pungent and suitably fiery. (D5) ul. Wilcza 27, tel. 22 270 2766, sokotra.pl Tagine Having already scored considerable successes with Miss Kimchi and KoreaTown Rest, the same owners have spread their wings to cover a new cuisine that, so far, has been under-represented in the Polish capital: Moroccan! Specializing in traditional recipes served in tagine clay pots inside a casual interior dolled up with jam jar lights and bright, light colors. (E3) ul. Oboźna 9

Le Cedre Lounge Grzybowska 5A Tel 22 299 7299

Le Cedre 61

(opposite the zoo) Al. Solidarności 61, Praga Tel 22 670 1166

Le Cedre 84

(opposite the court) Al. Solidarności 84 Tel 22 618 8999

www.lecedre.pl warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings Tahina Small and lively, it’s a spot that brings together authentic Middle Eastern tastes with no quarter given: beef, for instance, is marinated for two days before being slow-cooked for 36-hours. Served in a featherlight lavash, there are those that would call this a kebab, but doing so would severely undersell the goodness in your hand. Demonstrating a fiendish attention to detail, Tahina is nothing if not characterized by its scrupulous specifics: look out for Iraqi-style scrambled eggs with dates, not to mention generous tahini bowls cascading with juicy chunks of chicken, and traditional coffee heated in a pan of sand. (C5) ul. Wilcza 26, fb.com/ TahinaWilcza

polish

Bez Gwiazdek BEST WAWA 2018 “Best Chef” BEST WAWA 2018 “Tasting Menu” While Bez Gwiazdek rejects the core principles of fine dining, don’t for one minute expect anything less than food that whispers refined sophistication.

Focusing each month on a different region of the country, Robert Trzópek’s tasting menu takes diners to the very heart of the Polish soul and does so via tastes that betray his fine dining background: delicate and precise, it’s the polar opposite of the standard Polski feast. Just when you thought you had worked out the nation’s cuisine, along comes Robert Trzópek to rewrite the rules. (E3) ul. Wiślana 8, bezgwiazdek.com.pl

Bazyliszek Some parts of Bazyliszek hark to its years as a stately, stuffy restaurant. Now though it’s more earthy, with Jurassic portions of meaty, lardy food best consumed with one-liter beers. The Rynek location and festive atmosphere account for its popularity more than anything that comes from the kitchen. (D1) Rynek Starego Miasto 1/3, tel. 22 831 1841, bazyliszek. waw.pl

Bistro Pod Sowami Talk of Praga’s revival feels a bit more serious now that Bistro Pod Sowami has opened. From the outside, this corner tenement is a study in neo-gothic indulgence. On the inside, the muted elegance is perfectly partnered by cooking that sees traditional Polish given a modern reinvention. But will they survive the recent departure of chef Damian Wajda – we’ll be watching closely. (F1) ul. Okrzei 26, fb.com/bistropodsowami

Bar Gdański A refit has seen the plastic plants, putrid smells and that slow feeling of death replaced by a fresher look in keeping with the times. Despite this, the historic core of this milk bar has been retained including the daffodil colors and original floor tiles. How’s the food? Cheap. That’s probably the kindest thing you can say about it. Despite that, Gdański feels like an essential part of the community. (B1) ul.

Andersa 33, fb.com/bargdanskimuranow Belvedere Łazienki Królewskie Set in an imperial age glass orangery, it’s festooned with intricate latticework and botanical exotica. The updated interiors are the work of acclaimed set designer Boris Kudlicka, and lend a fresh, contemporary tone that goes hand in hand with the menu. But behind the gels and emulsions and pretty little swirls, this is cooking of substantial depth; it’s cooking that takes you to the very soul of

Polish nature. (F8) ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. 22 558 6701, belvedere.com.pl

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Czerwony Wieprz An amusing restaurant that looks back at communism through a rose-tinted lens.

Under the glowering gaze of commie tyrants, staff dressed like obedient members of the party’s Youth League deliver hefty dishes from a cheeky menu that is in itself a collector’s item. (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 22 850 3144, czerwonywieprz.pl Delicja Polska Looking stately (pink bows, gilt touches and immaculate linen) but never stuffy, Delicja have a modern Polish menu that includes sous-vide salmon marinated in beetroot leaves, then topped with horseradish foam and dill emulsion. Brilliant.

But then so was everything else we tried, including the exquisite seasoned roast beef. (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 64, tel. 22 826 4770, delicjapolska.pl Dom Polski Almost like it was designed for the

manor born, Dom Polski has the rarefied atmosphere of a country retreat: bowtied staff who click their heels, decorative antiques and a menu that’s a sumptuous anthology of posh Polish cooking. When you need to give visitors a sense of classic Warsaw, Dom Polski is the first out of the hat. (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 2432, restauracjadompolski.pl Dom Polski Belwederska Accessed via curling pathways and bursting shrubs this restaurant conjures images of an aristocrat’s manor. The air of privilege matches a menu that’s rich in fanciful classics such as their signature goose. Elegant and exquisite, consider it your default choice for a taste of true Poland. (F8) ul. Belwederska 18A, tel. 22 840 5060, restauracjadompolski.pl Elixir by Dom Wódki There are some who call the food here 'deconstructed Polish'. In actuality, 'reconstructed' would be closer to the mark. The chef has taken local classics and redrafted the recipes with the swoosh of a contemporary pen. The outcome is a pleasure from start to finish: a life affirming żurek, a tartar that could fulfill ambassadorial duties for Poland, and a handsome beef tenderloin sprinkled with crispy potato shavings.

Thoughtful pairings with lesser-known, boutique vodkas add another dimension that serves to complete this pleasing, patriotic adventure. (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl Folk Gospoda If you missed the last train to Zakopane, then a night in Folk Gospoda is the next best thing. Kitted out like a typical tavern in the Tatras, it’s a good-humored celebration of mountain-slope traditions: heaps of meat and lard with plenty of vodka and song in between. (B3) ul.

Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605, folkgospoda. pl Kieliszki na Próżnej You’ll find Kieliszki na Próżnej, the latest restaurant to mark the rehabilitation of Próżna, so named after the 1,116 wineglasses that hang tantalizingly over the bar. As an anchor feature the suspended glassware is arresting and equaled only by a long stretch of wall art doodled by Mariusz Tarkawian. The

EAT! Listings food matches up to the interiors, with a modern Polish menu that – on our visit – involved a thick, brilliantly spreadable foie gras pate, a thick slab of brawn and a delicate piece of moist Baltic cod. It’s pure seasonal comfort. (C3) ul. Próżna 12, tel.

501 764 674, kieliszkinaproznej.pl Klub Spatif Tip tap through the dark chambers into a bright dining room decorated with eggshell lights and vibrant greenery; from the photos on the walls, famous past guests smile down in approval. Though better known as a bar-club crossover, in daylight hours find a surprisingly brilliant menu featuring modern Polish tastes: tender piglet cheeks with curried sauerkraut, coconut milk and cilantro; marinated salmon with beetroot; and a vegan tartar made with tomatoes and black olives. It is, quite simply, a glorious hymn to natural tastes. (E5) Al. Ujazdowskie 45, klubspatif.pl LAS This rail-side communist pavilion has been transformed courtesy of a thorough makeover featuring a jungle of plants, low, muted lighting and the addition of smart charcoal colors and revamped retro fittings. As for food, then familiarize yourself with Anna Klajmon. Having made her bones at Grunt i Woda, her farm-to-fork philosophy has followed her here. Cooking with an air of freedom, there’s a natural goodness to her menu that belies the modest pricing.

Highly seasonal, on our visit that meant gorgeous oxtail pierogi with peanut butter and hazelnut sauce. Don’t mix the ‘local cocktails’, either. (F4) ul. Solec 44, fb.com/ las.warszawa Polana Smaków Compact and woodsy, it’s retained the intimacy of the original, the only difference being a design that feels less country cottage and a little more designed – big curtains, trimmed shrubbery and the liberal use of pre-war tiling all add to that impression. Food-wise, and this place remains a passionate advocate of the natural tastes of Poland; find shiny slithers of marinated herring posed on an arc of pumpkin and orange sauce, or mains like catfish in dill cream with smoked potatoes and porcini mushrooms. It’s sophisticated yet

reassuringly simple. (C5) ul. E. Plater 14, polanasmakow.pl Prasowy Delicate diners turn their back on milk bars, yet this canteen-style phenomenon, with its history rooted in communism, has enjoyed a remarkable renaissance and a freshly found popularity with a new generation. Sure, the food is an acquired taste and best described using words like ‘basic’, ‘bland’ and ‘honest’, but Prasowy gets our vote for a cool design that’s seen the 1954 interiors sensitively updated.

(E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16 Pyzy Flaki Gorące Head to decrepit Brzeska to unearth one of Praga’s favorite little secrets. Serving the best pyzy in town, find your little dumplings squashed into glass vessels then lathered with various toppings.

Arguably the best budget meal in Warsaw, this is the essence of Poland served in a jar. (G1) ul. Brzeska 29/31 Restauracja Polska “Różana” The rarified atmosphere of Różana is a pleasure indeed. Close to the frontline of Mokotów / Śródmieście, you’d never guess the proximity of the center. Seated in their garden, one feels removed from the city – a fountain burbles quietly in the background, starlings hop around the trees. From the inside, one hears the distant tinkle of the house pianist. Just being here is a thrill in itself, and the food is a Polish dining extravaganza served from the top table: farmhouse duck, saddle of venison, etc. (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 22 848 1225, restauracjarozana.com.pl Schabowy Red gingham tablecloths are just about the only decorative element in this plain Jane restaurant; aesthetics don’t figure highly, and that much is clear through an approach to plating presentation that’s best described as basic. But boy, they can cook – simple but delicious, the food here is Polish home cooking at its best: great ingredients used to even greater effect.

As the name suggests, schabowy is the star, and here you’ll find it served in three different forms. ul. Obrzeżna 1, fb.com/ schabowy.warszawa Stary Dom A classic restaurant in style and history:

UL. PRÓŻNA 10 TEL: 577 607 775 restauracjasanthai.pl warsawinsider.pl

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Traditional Polish Cuisine,

Ĺťurek

(traditional sour rye soup)

Golonka

(roast pork knuckle)

Placki Ziemniaczane

(potato pancake with gulash)

We serve Polish dishes on hot pans and sizzling cast iron and are winners of many culinary competitions Hand making our own pierogi since 1913 Pierogi Truskawkowe Strawberry dumplings

but don’t miss the pierogi OUR LOCATIONS IN WARSAW U L . K R A KO W S K I E P R Z E D M I E Ś C I E 5 5 | T E L . 2 2 6 9 2 7 2 0 4 U L . N O W Y Ś W I AT 6 4 | T E L . 2 2 6 9 2 4 1 3 5 AL. JEROZOLIMSKIE 28 | TEL. 22 826 7484 U L . F R E TA 1 | T E L . 2 2 8 3 1 6 1 9 0 UL. ŚWIĘTOJAŃSKA 13 | TEL. 22 635 6109 U L . F R E TA 1 8 | T E L . 2 2 6 3 5 7 9 5 9

EAT! Listings back in the day it was a favorite haunt of jockeys and race goers from the horse track nearby. Pre-war recipes form the basis of the menu, with the team using seasonal produce and the latest technology to bring out its best. ul. Puławska 104/106, tel. 22 646 4208, restauracjastarydom.pl Stolica Set in one of Old Town’s smaller, lesser-known squares, Stolica charms with its pre-war, slightly formal ambiance: pristine white tablecloths and spotless mirrors combine with classic Warsaw tunes to generate a storybook atmosphere straight from the pages of Tuwim and Gombrowicz. Food-wise, you’re looking at typically local dishes such as venison marinated in bison grass vodka.

(D1) ul. Szeroki Dunaj 1/3, restauracjastolica.com Talerzyki It sounds a little absurd, but Talerzyki manage the implausible by Polonizing the concept of tapas and coming up trumps. Fiercely Polish in spirit, the menu looks to revive the essence of inter-war Warsaw with its selection of classic recipes presented in scaled-down form: blood pudding with apple and cinnamon; beef tongue and horseradish; and white sausage with fermented flour sauce. It sounds glum and gory but its anything but – and the style mavens of Mokotowska appear to agree. (D6) ul. Mokotowska 33/35 U Szwejka Named after the fictional Czech soldier Szwejk, the food here would certainly appeal to the tubby man himself. Served in an interior bestowed with Prague street signs, the food is a hardy, meaty affair, and arrives in XXXL portions. The price to quantity ratio guarantees queues (yes, queues) that stretch out on the street every weekend – but you have to wonder why. (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1710, uszwejka.pl Warszawski Sen By Mateusz Gessler A quite stunning restaurant dominated by dark geometric patterns and the installations and ideas of guerilla artist Tomasz Górnicki. Once you’ve caught your breath and snapped off a few pics for your Instagram, settle in for a menu that gives Polish ingredients a highly

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contemporary treatment. If you thought Hala Koszyki was buzzing, then this edgy space is perhaps its biggest buzz of all. ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki), mateuszgessler.com.pl Wuwu A vodka bar next to a vodka museum inside a former vodka factory… yep, at Wuwu you can’t escape the facts: vodka is everywhere. Wuwu’s reputation for peerless cocktails (based on you know what) and late hours (closing time: never) has grown exponentially over the months, but so too has its standing in the food chain thanks to a local-centric menu that reintroduces the public to the forgotten tastes of inter-war Warsaw: duck tongues with grapes and hazelnuts; a signature tartar lashed with homemade fermentations; not to mention blood sausage with pickled apples and a deep bread sauce. Pl. Konesera 1 (Centrum Praskie Koneser), wuwu.bar

Zapiecek Seven Warsaw locales, with our favorite found in the vaulted passages of Świętojańska. The menu is highly traditional, with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’. It’s for the pierogi though for which they’re famous; find approx. fifty types delivered by servers dressed like saucy country maids. Locations inc. ul.

Nowy Świat 64, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska 13, tel. 22 635 61 09, & ul. Wańkowicza 1, zapiecek.eu Zielony Niedźwiedź A sanctuary of elegant fancy, it’s a place of long, dark shadows and discreet decorative touches: From the outset, you’re made to feel that good things will happen, and this they do. Certified by Poland’s fledgling slow food movement, the menu gives star billing to the suppliers that keep the pantry full; but the truth is these aren’t the only heroes. Taking the reins in June, new chef Oliwia Bernady has grown in stature and skill preparing a daily tinkered menu that opens your eyes to the real tastes of Poland. (E4) ul.

Smolna 4, tel. 795 794 784, kafezn.pl Zoni BEST WAWA 2018 “Modern Polish”

Housed in a former vodka distillery, the immense interior reveals cast iron kilns, flooring made from recovered vodka barrels and numerous post-industrial pieces that have been lovingly restored. But the real talking point in Aleksander Baron, a chef nationally known for his devotion to local ingredients and little-known techniques. We loved the tomato assiette, not to mention a T-bone heavier than an artillery round. Aged in such a way as to allow aspergillus mushrooms to grow into the meat, it’s a glorious piece of cooking that makes the heart roar. And dessert?

A chilled sphere of calf brain mousse the incorporates vanilla, brown butter and caramel. So far, there’s been no better launch this year. (G1) Pl. Konesera 1, muzeumpolskiejwodki.pl

scandinavian Nabo The décor is, we’re told, typical Danish cafe – bold open windows, simple lines, high shelves filled with books and games on the table. But what is Danish food? There’s Old Danish on the menu: meatballs and open face sandwiches with meat and fish in various textural configurations and then there’s New Danish: an emerging trend towards fresh, seasonal food with locally sourced and innovatively concocted ingredients. ul. Zakręt 8, tel. 22 842 0256, nabocafe.pl

seafood

L’Arc French in style, seafood dominates the menu of L’Arc with the lobster and oysters a particular standout. Enjoy it inside a classic interior that feels assuredly upscale. (E8) ul. Puławska 16, larc.pl Lokal na Rybę Open just three days a week, the limited hours have created a supply / demand situation which sees this basic-looking

EAT! Listings venue often packed out. The menu is revised on a weekly basis though never really goes beyond three starters and a couple of mains – but that’s all they need to captivate the public. In recent times, octopus goulash and smoked herring pierogi have played distinctive roles. (D9) ul. Kwiatowa 1/3/4, fb.com/lokalnarybe U Rysia Devoid of frills bar a glowing neon sign and a brooding mural of Jesus, it looks like a Polish fish restaurant should – basic but with an undercurrent of bustle that keeps the mood bright. It tastes like the real thing as well. Sourcing their catch from the freshwater lakes of northern Poland, the offer is divided into fish that have been smoked, steamed, fried or baked. Check out the perch ‘chips’ fried in batter. (C4) ul. Marszałkowska 140 (enter from ul. Rysia), urysia.com.pl

specialty food shops Bazar Olkuska Once a sad little side street, Olkuska has evolved to become just about the worst kept secret in Warsaw. Home to the city’s top eco-market, trips here end with shopping bags filled with French cheeses, Italian hams, Hungarian sausages and fresh fruit and veg. (E10) ul. Olkuska 12 Befsztyk The Prokopowicz family has come a long way since launching Befsztyk in 1994.

Top restaurants, celebs and ex-pats are listed as clients, and all agree that this operation is indisputably ‘top of the chops’. Find steaks seasoned for three weeks, gluten-free smoked meats, Merino lamb, BBQ kits and so much more. Home delivery, internet ordering and Englishspeaking staff round out this legend. many locations, befsztyk.pl BioBazar With its previous home in Wola undergoing a substantial redevelopment, the BioBazar has moved to Mokotów. At the forefront of Poland’s food revolution, it’s a place that shines a light on ecologically certified goods and produce. Fresh fish, cheese, eggs, bread, cured sausages,

honey... on it goes. Comprehensive in its pitch, everything you need to pursue a bright, happy life is here on this spot. ul.

Wołoska 3, biobazar.com.pl (B4) ul. Żelazna 51/53, biobazar.org.pl The Crazy Butcher Grzegorz Kwapniewski, better known as ‘Warsaw’s celebrity butcher’, has a new store in town, that being a corner unit in Hala Koszyki. Named by chefs across town as their principal source of meat, Kwapniewski’s offer includes Polish Red Angus, long-seasoned, marbled beef, not to mention veal, lamb, poultry and cured meats from small scale producers. ul.

Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki) Dobrze Co-op The Dobrze Food Co-op aims to ‘widen access to healthy, seasonal food’ while also supporting sustainable agriculture.

Founded in summer, 2014, the project collaborates with over 20 farms and local businesses and sells fresh vegetables and fruit alongside cereals, dried goods and other bits and pieces. ul. Wilcza 29A & ul.

Andersa 27, dobrze.waw.pl Forteca Kregliccy Spot the stars of Warsaw’s restaurant scene perusing the stalls at this weekly farmers’ market. Held each Wednesday, look for Pan Ziółko, Poland’s first celebrity farmer (!), Portobello’s from the country’s only organic mushroom farm and the magical yogurts from Mleczna Droga Manufaktura Serów. ul. Zakroczymska 12, kregliccy.eu/forteca Hala Gwardii Taking its cue from the market places of Lisbon and Marseilles, Hala Gwardii aims to reprise its former pre-war role as the city’s best-known food market. Designed to complement rather than compete with Hala Mirowska outside, the market is a sensory big bang with dozens of stalls specializing in everything from cheese and sausages, to rolled Thai ice cream and posh pet supplies. (C3) Pl. Mirowska 2, fb.com/halagwardii Kosher Shop Snuck to the side of the synagogue, stock up on Kosher produce from the friendly store, before hitting up the falafel tent outside for, aside from the obvious, kosher ice cream. (C4) ul. Twarda 6 warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings Kram A supermarket worth your time. Putting small scale producers to the fore, find veggies courtesy of the Majlert farm and grocer Pan Ziołko, daily deliveries from the Mąka i Woda bakery, dairy courtesy of Mleczna Droga, and several cult Polish brands such as Concept Stu Mostów. Craft beers, bio wines, and softs from the likes of Fentimans and Galvanina complete the quite extraordinary lineup. ul. Duchnicka 3, facebook.com/kram.nativeingredients Kuchnie Świata The first stop for most ex-pats, with an offer that includes food and drinks from across the globe. The choice is vast but mainly involves tinned and packaged products. Internet ordering now also available. Various locations, kuchnieswiata. com.pl Ostra Kuchnia A superb internet shop retailing quite literally the hottest sauces known to

man: brands include Blair’s, Dave’s, El Yucateco, Mad Dog, Melinda’s and many more besides. Also sell jalapenos, chili peppers, salsas and pastes. Polish-only website, but easy to navigate and superb customer service. ostrakuchnia.pl

steak houses Beef n’ Pepper Beef N’ Pepper presents itself in a buzzy urban flash of violet blue lighting, slick banquette seating and open kitchen action. Straight away, you get the feeling of being in a place that’s alive and active, a feeling that’s affirmed by a busy backlit bar from behind which blackshirted staff fling sunny cocktails for the after-work crowd. Of course, it’s the food angle that takes precedence, and at Beef N’ Pepper that translates to a decent choice of surf’n’turf. Highlights include

thumping T-bones and a 60-day aged Argentinean top loin. (C5) ul. Nowogrodzka 47A, tel. 785 025 025, beefandpepper.pl Butchery & Wine The Sarf London-born Bertha oven has revolutionized the way steak is cooked, retaining moisture in a way no-one thought possible. Expect robust pieces of animal full of big, brawny tastes, but there’s so much more than just meat: starters involve a sea bass ceviche that pings with citrusy flavor not to mention more-ish pork crackling that pop like fire bangers in the mouth. A place of energy and ambition, it’s a great mix of both new and classic. Bookings advised. (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 502 3118, butcheryandwine.pl Ed Red Warszawa You can tell they’re serious about their meat just by looking at the starters: big, juicy marrow bones, mountain oysters, blood sausage and calf’s brain.

Jana Moliera 4/6 22 826 5958 moliera@sakana.pl www. sakana.pl

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EAT! Listings The steaks are the calling card though, and here you’ll find them dry aged and consumed with the aid of hunting knives.

The desserts seem a lumpy afterthought, but they get enough right elsewhere (even decent craft beer at the bar) to keep that little more than a mild annoyance. (B3) Pl. Mirowski 1, edred.pl Hoża Wine and steak: it sounds simple, but Hoża have taken two simple pleasures to another level. It’s an ebullient space with service right out of charm school, and a kitchen team with a real knowledge of cows. A red-blooded affair, the menu is a steak sensation and well paired with a handpicked wine list. (D5) ul. Hoża 25A, tel.

603 778 275, hoza.warszawa.pl Merliniego A classic looking steakhouse that swirls in shadow, brickwork and elegant touches, it’s a place to immerse yourself in an atmosphere that’s all surreptitious

conversation and distant clinking glasses.

The steaks are out-of-this world, with USDA prime beef from New York’s legendary Ottomanelli & Sons and Scottish beef from London’s Smithfield Market.

On our last visit we splurged on the Grade 9+ wagyu ‘kobe’ rib-eye and found ourselves eating the steak of a lifetime.

Simply amazing. (E10) ul. Merlineiego 5, merliniego.pl

primal desires, choices run from steamy duck broth to dry-aged tomahawk steaks that’ll take an hour to finish. The beef wellington is a must. High end and upmarket, expect big things to come – full review soon. (D5) ul. Poznańska 38, zebraikosci.pl

Prime Cut Aimed at a higher class of customer, this showy steakhouse has shaken up the meat sector since it’s star studded launch at the beginning of summer. The beautiful, contemporary design is matched by a faultless menu – full report coming soon.

(C4) ul. Twarda 18, primecut.pl

Bangkok Soi Without being privy to statistics, you’d hazard a guess this was the most blogged about restaurant of March 2019. Small and informal, the narrow choice makes it easy to sample everything within a couple of visits – and it’s likely you’ll return to do just that. Replicating the street tastes of Thailand, maximum points go the beef Massaman curry – some are arguing this is the most exciting Thai opening Warsaw’s seen for years, and from what we’ve seen we’re inclined to agree. (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 50

Żebra i Kości More than just steak, head to this smart newbie for Flintstone portions of ribs that thwack down on the table like heavy rounds of artillery. Satisfying all your

thai

Flavours of Warsaw - traditional Polish cuisine with a distinctive modern touch. Everything is made from fresh seasonal ingredients.

Enjoy, among many others, beef tartare with lovage mayonnaise, white truffle powder and marinated wild mushrooms.

Or try our mouth watering Dumplings stuffed with veal and marinated squash in red lingonberry sauce.

Or perhaps you have a taste for duck breast with squash purée and a French potato in a dill emulsion. To finish off delight in our home made pastries.

Restaurant and Pastry 48 22 621 82 68 Żurawia str. 47/48 Warsaw Pastry and Cafe 48 608 046 406 Felińskiego str. 52 Warsaw www.smakiwarszawy.com

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EAT! Listings Basil & Lime Reports have been hit and miss, with one Insider noting calamitous service and food that was both over and undercooked. Not on our visit, though. Short and to the point, the menu is defined by its clarity, and we enjoyed a phenomenal yellow curry and banana fritters with the right combo of crunch and goo. Beautifully decorated with charcoal colors and punches of lime, the Insider felt good long after visiting. Will you? (E8) ul. Puławska 27, tel. 22 126 1943, basil-lime.pl

San Thai Informal, airy surrounds; fair price points; and a menu that covers enough bases while never becoming overwhelming.

Surprisingly great cocktails add to the impression that this street is taking off as something of a scene. (C3) ul. Próżna 10, restauracjasanthai.pl Silk & Spicy If you don’t benchmark Silk & Spicy against what you’d eat in Asia (and you really shouldn’t), then you might enjoy it. “The curry was on taste-wise,” said our disappointed graphic, “but the cream cheese didn’t work in the sushi and the kmichi-style salad served at the beginning was very pedestrian for such a

place.” (D5) ul. Żurawia 16/20, tel. 22 629 7012, silkandspicy.pl Thai Thai A visual feast of ink black colors and shimmering deities this is by far the most formal of Warsaw’s Thai options – and also the best. Peaks include a grilled beef salad full of citrusy twists, lively flavors and vibrant colors, and sundried pork neck that’s all manly crunch and nose-clearing sauce. And then there’s the tuna tartar, a dish zinging with fresh hits of coriander, mint, lime and chili. There’s no point in complimenting the chef, he’s heard it all before. (C2) Pl. Teatralny 3, tel.

601 818 283, thaithai.pl Thaisty The most successful business model pioneered in recent years? That’s the work of Thaisty, a bright, cheerful spot with a ‘street style’ and moderate prices – queues, at times, stretch out the door.

Vivid colors and a busy open kitchen lend the place a happy buzz that lasts through the day, yet despite this many have voiced concerns that Thaisty’s runaway success has come at a cost to the overall quality. Even so, the BBQ skewers remain a good order. (C2) Pl. Bankowy 4, tel. 730 000 024, thaisty.pl Why Thai A calming, almost holistic interior sets the tone for a meal dominated by the rich

and aromatic tastes of Thailand. For a lively, spicy start begin with a mango and cashew salad, before moving forward and onto their celebrated curries.

Imported chefs keep the flavors authentic, with the pad Thai being something of a house favorite. (E5) ul. Wiejska 13, tel. 22 625 7698, whythai.pl

ukrainian Kanapa This swish villa is a thoughtful essay in understated elegance: antique and classy, yet with enough eclectic touches to that add that little sense of home. The food fits the backdrop with cooking that feels adventurous in style yet traditional in its taste. The borscht, presented in a huge, hollowed out cabbage, incorporates cooked beetroot, stewed pears and plums, chunks of meat and a wallop of sour cream – these rich and raucous flavors are offset by highly sophisticated alternatives such as blobs of pike caviar and oyster cream on a delicate, crispy fish skin. (E8) ul. Narbutta 10, fb.com/ kanapa.restauracja Rest.Baczewskich A grander opening there has not been this year. Inspired by the cuisine of Old Poland and pre-war Lviv, dishes include Galician-style herring and beef cooked in pork fat and served with white porridge and fried cabbage – as classic as they sound, presentation is pure 21st century and fitting of the luxurious surroundings of this one-time palace. Full review coming soon. (E7) Al. Szucha 17/19, baczewskich.rest

vegan 30 Koszyków In light of the lavish, local vegan choice, critics could call the menu at 30 Koszyków a little mundane – hummus peaked three years ago, didn’t it? Yet while the concept might not feel new, the execution does. From a limited set of choices, Koszyków’s fast expanding customer base enjoy a range of kick-ass hummus recipes that have acquired a serious following: the beetroot is highly

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EAT! Listings recommended. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 30, fb.com/30koszykow Edamame Vegan Sushi Sushi without its star ingredient sounds ridiculous, but this vegan sushi joint manages to out-manoeuver its traditional competitors by replacing below-par fish with fresh, vegetarian produce: sugar snap peas, radish, carrots, asparagus, etc. The results are both magical and addictive, and leave you wondering if vegan sushi stands to be Warsaw’s next trend. (D5) ul. Wilcza 11, edamame.pl Eden Housed inside (and outside!) a modernist villa, Eden is by far the most exciting vegan launch for some time. Eat in a secluded courtyard garden complete with its own greenhouse, or indoors in a super cool space that feels arty and avant garde but also laidback and homey. Handled by Michał Gniłka (he’s cooked for Keanu Reeves!), the food front involves grilled corn and avocado ceviche, ‘DIY’ grilled oyster mushroom tacos, and Malaysian-style laksa with sea buckthorn. As for drinks, choose from third wave coffees, organic wines and a whole host of inventive house drinks. So far, everyone agrees that it’s a place to treasure. (G3) ul. Jakubowska 16, edenbistro.pl Falafelove Cramped, sweaty and uncomfortable, Falafelove’s customers choose to overlook the aesthetic shortcomings for one very special reason: this is falafel that sets a new benchmark. Recommended is the spicy wrap, comprising of ‘red falafel’, humus, harissa, sundried tomatoes and tahini. If there’s space, join the others on the terrace outside. (C2) ul. Senatorska 40 Falla Both pricing and location combine to keep this venue blocked solid with a muddled mass of students from the uni nearby. Looking simple, maybe even spartan, crowds flock to this corner unit for recipes inspired by the Middle East and Asia: huge wraps tightly packed with pungent kimchi; generous pans brimming with shakshouka; and an array of hummus in unfamiliar forms – chipotle, coriander, carrot and more. (E3) ul. Oboźna 9, fb.com/falla.wawa

Krowarzywa Tatts, hats and plaid shirts aplenty in Krowarzywa: a survivor of the hipster era, for many it’s the epitome of Warsaw’s vegan scene. The burgers set a benchmark that all but a few fail to surpass. (D5) ul.

Marszałkowska 27/35, tel. 881 777 894 ul.

Hoża 29/31, krowarzywa.pl ul. Hoża 29/31, krowarzywa.pl Kuchnia Konfliktu First came a food truck, then a cargo container. Now, Kuchnia Konfliktu have a legit address they can finally call home.

First founded to provide work for refugees fleeing conflict zones, this social project has won acclaim not just for social initiative, but more importantly its food. With employees hailing from the likes of Iran, Afghanistan, Chechnya and Iraq, prepare to dive deep into the exotic. Full review next issue. (D5) ul. Wilcza 60

Leonardo Verde Geometric patterns, plant arrangements and the large format illustrative artwork of Dominique A. Faryno decorate Leonardo Verde, an upmarket – but inexpensive – Italian joint.

Pizza is the forte – order the ‘hot romantic’, a combo featuring chili, avocado and tabasco. (D5) ul. Poznańska 13, fb.com/ leonardo.verde.restaurant

MODERN TAKE ON JAPANESE CUISINE

Lokal Vegan Bistro Aside from a small menu consisting of more standard vegan offers, Lokal keep Homer Simpson characters in mind with regular guest slots for street food that’s given a full vegan makeover. Offhand, that’s meant vegan kebabs, cheesesteaks, burgers and zapiekanka, all of which have been pretty damn good. (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, 517 615 122 Momencik Steamy, tight and sweaty, this pokey subterranean cavern has one key thing going for it: burritos that outrank the majority of ‘proper Mexicans’ in town. The salsas, too, are magnificent (ooh, pineapple), arguably the best in the city. (D5) ul. Poznańska 16 Tel Aviv “People shouldn’t be excluded from high

OPEN EVERY DAY 12:00-23:00 GROUND FLOOR WARSAW SPIRE, PLAC EUROPEJSKI 2 +48 668 925 959 WABU@WABU.PL | WWW.WABU.PL WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/WABUSUSHI

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EAT! Listings standards just because they’ve chosen the vegan path,” says Malka Kafka, the owner of Tel Aviv. As such, find a plant-based menu that gives the tastes of Israel a fancy schmancy style – so fancy that Depeche Mode ate here last summer! (D5) ul. Poznanska 11, restauracjatelaviv.pl Vegan Ramen Shop Co-joining two fads is always a risky business – just ask Loco Mexicana.

All of a sudden, the focus doesn’t fall on just getting one thing right, but two. But despite this double-headed challenge Vegan Ramen have struck gold on account of their complex bowls of restorative goodness: their fan base extends way beyond the boundaries of Saska Kępa. Enjoy in a cool interior filled with cute Japanese props on dozens of ‘levitating shelves’. (G3) ul. Finlandzka 12A Veg Deli An entrance beset with candles, plant pots and seasonal veg charms people in, and they tend to stay on to dine on creative vegetarian options that nearly always hit the spot. The tacos are a bit of a disappointment, but the quinoa burger is fabulous, and the homemade Russian pierogi an absolute highlight.

Even committed meat eaters recognize there’s something special going on here.

(E3) ul. Radna 14

Youmiko Vegan Sushi Exceptional in every respect, Youmiko’s tasting menu is one of the undisputed highlights of what’s become known as the vegan square mile. “Our aim,” declares their manifesto, “is to mix traditional Japanese approaches with Polish creativity and surprise you with new textures and flavors.” Mission accomplished. (D5) ul. Hoża 62, youmiko.vg

vietnamese La Vietnamita A long, lantern-lit interior houses La Vietnamita, one of the better Vietnamese stops to launch in Warsaw. Not everything is successful, but the pho dishes are commendable. (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 52/54 Oh My Pho A busy, family-run joint, OMP’s specific claim to fame is what many are terming the best and most authentic pho in the ward. Steamy and aromatic, this is pho as it should be: full of big herby thwacks, ribboning noodles, and soft strips of meat in a clear, restorative stock. Often cited as being the ‘soul of the nation’, just a few noisy slurps are all that’s needed to corroborate the life-affirming goodness of this beautiful broth... (D5) ul. Wilcza 32, fb.com/ohmyphowilcza

Toan Pho Toan Pho’s bowls of soup with rice noodles come highly recommended; as does the chaos intrinsic to this type of casual Asian eatery. The short menu is in Vietnamese with Polish decoding – although you can ask for an English version. (D4) ul. Chmielna 5/7, tel. 888 147 307 Ukim Though not as high profile as Warsaw’s other gastro streets, Chłodna’s emergence has been no less spectacular. But fine dining and fancy wine bars aside, it’s actually the more standard venues that make the area feel so vibrant. Take Ukim, a cheerful joint decorated with steel Tolix chairs and blooming palms.

Covering vast tracts of Asia, the menu, for the most part, feels enjoyable and authentic in equal measure: start with duck and mango spring rolls before moving onto mains such as crispy, sticky chicken in tamarind sauce. (B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, ukim.pl Vietnamka Divey but lively, diners step down into Vietnamka to find a shouty little lair of mint green walls and wobbly wooden tables. Infused with a gentle sense of chaos (drinks after mains, mains before starters), there’s a certain charm at work that feels authentic and convincing. As for the food, you suspect that’ll be ’nam good when TV chef Kurt Scheller wonders in for a take-out. And boy, yes it is. Squiggled onto a crumpled sheet of paper, menu items include giant bowls of warming pho, steamed goat with lemongrass and more-ish spring rolls. Exceptional in every respect, the cooking here sails Warsaw’s Asian scene into uncharted waters. (D5) ul. Poznańska 7, fb.com/ VietnamkaPoznanska Viet Street Food Bistro What started out as a roaming food truck has settled down into life as a legitimate restaurant. Widely looked upon as the source of some of the best Vietnamese chow this city’s ever seen, the small menu contains steaming bowls of pho and banh mi baguettes loaded with meat and greens: both are brill. (H4) ul. Królowej Aldony 5/2, fb.com/ vietstreetfoodpl

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EAT! Listings

DRINK!

A KIND OF MAGIC

Hip and happening, the concept at Reginabar is a wacky amalgam that mixes elements of New York’s Little Italy with China Town next door: it sounds weird, but the combo works seamlessly with a menu that strikes the heart of happiness with its leopard spotted pizzas and calorific deep fried chicken. The menu rocks, but find it augmented by a dynamic cocktail list that reflects the crazy things happening in Warsaw’s world of drinks: that means, the regular sip aside, ‘magic cocktails’ with names such as Power Spells and Star Dust.

Dazzly and mysterious, lap these up in an interior that joins the retro with the avant garde.

Reginabar ul. Koszykowa 1, fb.com/Reginakoszykowa1

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drink! Review

As the 10th edition of the Warsaw Beer Festival looms closer, we bring you our cheat sheet for all things connected to the world of craft piwo…

W H AT ’ S B R E W I N G ?

With around 50 specialist craft beer bars to choose from in the city, keep a track of what’s on tap in each by clicking to the conveniently named… ontap.pl.

Updated in real time – at least by the more diligent bar owners – find a complete list of what each bar is serving at any given time. If you’re traveling on, then their app and website covers over 40 Polish cities.

LOCAL HEROES Surprisingly, given Warsaw’s thirst for booze, the capital’s first bona fide craft brewery launched only three years ago. That’s Palatum, and you’ll find them

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PHOTOGRAPHS THIS PAGE SHUTTERSTOCK, OPPOSTIE PAGE PRESS MATERIAL

BEER GOGGLES

LEADING EDGE Poland’s got umpteen indy breweries (last count: approx. nine zillion) producing 1,700 different beers each year – too right picking highlights is hard. Even so, three breweries continue to catch the eye: there’s Monsters, with their high impact, big tasting, fruit flavored offers (the star so far: Lemoniadowy Joe); Zakładowy’s frontier pushing brews (e.g. Double Black IPA with coconut and pineapple); and Stu Mostów of Wrocław for their unwavering commitment to innovative styles. All three breweries are doing something special.

IN THE ’BURBS Craft beer pubs continue to make rapid gains in the suburbs, saving residents from the chemical ills of Poland’s macro breweries. Many deserve a hat tip, but none more so than Craft Beer Muranów, Stacja Grochowska, Drugie Dno Ochota, Kufle I Kapsle Żoliborz (plus their new branch in Powiśle!), and Piwna Sprawa in darkest Bielany. well-represented in the tap bars about town. Just outside of the city limits, Artezan in Błonie have long been a benchmark in quality, whilst Żyradow’s Beer Bros have become one to watch. In Piaseczno, Beer Lab have carved a niche producing upscale sips that have been embraced by the top restaurants in the capital.

S AV E T H E DAT E Mark your dairy: Warsaw’s biannual beer festival kicks-off on April 4th! Running for three days, Day 1 is commonly regarded as ‘beer geek day’, a time when nerds skive off work to be among the first to test all the tasty new debuts. Day 2, Friday, is all about the party, while Day 3 a chilled-out finale where people gather to contemplate the carnage of the previous evening. Set to attract 15,000 people, it’s become the biggest festival of its kind in the country. For deets, see: warszawskifestiwalpiwa.pl

GIRL POWER! Poland’s first female-run brewery, Hoplala, has gone from strength-to-strength since entering the market in 2017. Not afraid to get political, their best-selling Czarny Protest beer was coined in honor of the nationwide marches that forced the government to drop a mooted ban on abortion.

A N A P P L E A DAY Beer aside, artisanal cider is rising in stock – and quality. Still, no-one edges Jabeerwocky in terms of selection, with represented notable producers including Chyliczki and Dobroński. Our fave, mind you, that’s Kwaśne Jabłko. Like them as well? Then head to source and stay at their farmhouse hotel not far from Olsztyn.

ON THE PULSE Keep up-to-date with the latest developments on the country’s craft beer map by pointing your mouse towards Polskie Minibrowary (polskieminibrowary. pl). Fully independent, no other blog comes close to nailing the scene in quite the same manner. It’s Polish-language only, but even the most determined monoglot will be able to get the gist.

IN THE DRINK The highest concentration of craft beer bars are to be found on and around ul. Nowogrodzka. If you’re new to Warsaw, or have limited time, then head nowhere else to plunge headfirst into a boozy bliss. At the heart of it all, Jabeerwocky, Kufle i Kapsle and Drugie Dno are the terrific trio you can’t afford to miss. Good to know: when only the strongest have survived, Piw Paw nearby is open 24/7.

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drink! Listings bars & pubs 2Koła Sat, as it is, in the abandoned backspaces and brickyards behind Zachodnia station, 2Koła feels like Warsaw’s dirtiest little secret. Still stained and smelling of grease and oil, this former garage is piled high with dented sofas, warehouse palettes and motorcycling detritus. Yet the supremely friendly owners have turned this shadowy lair into a cult bar that’s specifically celebrated for rowdy jam sessions that cover everything from ragtime to rockabilly. ul. Tunelowa 2B 8 Dzień Tygodnia Though the owners remain the same, the unit that once housed Kwadrat couldn’t be more different: no longer a grungey, shadowy space, it’s been rebooted with lots of brash, bursts of color, strings of fairy lights and pops of modern art. What’s not been lost is the amiable sense of gentle chaos: buoyed by a quirky beer selection and fun music policy, this remains one of the friendliest venues in the parish. (D5) ul.

Poznańska 7 The Alchemist A small place with a big bag of tricks: upscale pub grub from Brit chef Ed Shellard, fancy cocktails, and a self-serve wall of beer from a choice of global brewers.

Poland’s still getting used to the idea of ‘a pint after work’, but in The Alchemist the idea of a post-office drink just seems so right. (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 3, thealchemist.pl Bar Pacyfik From Day 1 there was something that felt special about this place, and that feeling has only swelled with the progress of time. With a retro-kitsch interior delivered straight from the age of Scarface (candy floss pink, ocean blue), it’s a bar that’s dark and divey, raw and real. More than just a spot for the cool kids, there’s an inclusive atmosphere that feels positively international. As for drinks, the habanero / salsa infused Bloody Maria is a lifeaffirming gargle that sweeps through the body like an electric current – three sips and you feel like Superman. (C5) ul. Hoża 61 Bar Studio The ascetic, modern décor is intentional – both not to compete with the fine

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adornment of the original walls and to break through the building’s grandiose airs. It’s hard not to be overawed by the sheer gigantism of the Palace of Culture that looms above. It seamlessly slips from café during the day into its more culturally active persona in the evenings, with concerts, film screenings, plays and political discussions. (C4) Pl. Defilad 1, barstudio.pl Bar Warszawa De Luxe Leave your visit to the weekend when De Luxe unfurls into something resembling a Polish wedding disco. All the requisite characters appear in this spinning vortex of Boney M: vodka-fuelled Incredible Hulks, groping granddads, svelte students and everyone else in between. Somehow, the formula works without a hitch. There are Poles who’d be mortified by this representation of their country, but the truth is, it’s a rip-roaring time that’s enjoyed by most. (D2) Krakowskie Przedmieście 79 Bazar There’s Krusovice, Bernard and Staropramen on tap, and the Czech slant is lent added meat by a series of evenings held in cahoots with the Czech Cultural Centre – it’s during boozy disco nights the party spills into a shadowy cellar with light retro hints. On ground level its raw and industrial with asphalt colors and overhead pipes. You wouldn’t expect it, but the margaritas are smashing. (F1) ul. Jagiellońska 13

Beirut They’ve smashed a wall through though that’s still not enough to accommodate the crowd. Adorned with detritus inspired by the Lebanese conflict (ammox boxes, sandbags and… a bomb), by day find media types posturing by their Macs. At night, the air of cool dissolves into a wild, happy whirl of international voices. (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, beirut.com.pl

Bierhalle Having tapped their first beer eight years back, this microbrewery has morphed into a national phenomenon with outposts across the country. All Warsaw locations have a cut/paste Bavarian atmosphere, hefty wooden fittings and waitresses dressed like mountain frauleins. The drinks themselves are formulaic and nothing special. various locations, bierhalle.pl

Bohemia You have to credit them for trying something different, but by going for a slick, corpo style Bohemia have completely missed ‘the essence of Czechia’. Filled with smooth wood and gleaming glass, it feels more boardroom than beer hall (actually, make that bored room). What goes right? The beer. Poured from a ‘tank’ system designed to maintain your beer’s freshness, it’s every bit as good as drinking straight from the tit of Pilsner’s own brew master. (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, bohemiarestaurant.pl

Central Bar The natural focal point of Hala Koszyki, this ever-stretching bar gives the vigorous impression of being bang in the middle of somewhere that’s nailed the city’s imagination – certainly, the buzz from the beginning has shown no sign of fading.

Bonus points for a rather good Pimm’s.

Without fail, it remains Warsaw’s favorite meeting point. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki)

Ceska With its fake brickwork and shameless proliferation of Pilsner paraphernalia, the general feeling is that Ceska feels forced and phony – looking like it was fitted out to a rigid company blueprint, it’s more like the kind of theme pub you’d find off Leicester Square. Service, meanwhile, can be surly, forgetful and occasionally plain hostile. The ‘tank’ pouring system is a considerable plus: try the ‘mliko’, a full pint of creamy foam that can be sunk in a swig. (D4) ul. Chmielna 35, ceska.pl Chłodna 25 After several closures, noise clampdowns and a change in management you’d imagine C25 to be a mere shadow of what it once was. But after a slow start the new management have rescued this listing vessel and returned it to it best. On the ground floor it’s a place of creaking floorboards and retro armchairs, while the basement gets opened for experimental music nights and improvised orchestras.

(B3) ul. Chłodna 25, klubchlodna25.pl

Elephant Belgian Pub Signposted by a jolly, dancing elephant, this Belgian pub presents its cause the moment you enter – there’s twenty or so taps laid right out in front, and to the left a

Drink! Listings

drink! Listings fridge that’s expected to top out to cover 200 beers. The design is basic – brickwork, beer kegs and varying ephemera of the brewing trade – but it doesn’t need that much more: it’s about the beer, after all. (C1) ul. Freta 19

and Anglophiles. Their cause is helped by touches such as a proper darts board, Sky Sports and a traditional menu that’s as authentically English as the Downing Street cat. Presiding over it all is Graham, a seasoned expat and Everton nut. (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, legendsbar.pl

Gram Head up the stairs from Warmut (see Cocktails) to uncover Gram, a small room designed to evoke the feeling of stepping inside a circus tent. Set with arcade games (Pac-Man! Space Invaders!!), it’s a super fun space with a fridge of craft beers and quirky little details: look up and you’ll find monkey figures parachuting from the ceiling! You are, in effect, inside a playground for adults. (D6) ul.

Marszałkowska 45/49

Koko & Roy Already appearing in our Restaurant section, a growing reputation for long, merry nights is enough to earn Koko & Roy a second listing in the mag. Drink carefully composed cocktails and craft beers from the epic Stu Mostow brewery in an American-run resto-bar that’s starting to attract the full gamut of expat nationalities. An upmarket but quirky décor (Princess Leah on the wall, Antony Bourdain in the toilet) is matched by a maverick playlist, spontaneous atmosphere and open hours that have a habit of becoming seriously flexible when the weekend arrives. (D5) ul. Wilcza 43 Kosmos – Inne Beczki Craft beer, pizza, late nights and DJs! In a nutshell, that’s Kosmos. Attracting the kind of crowd you’d anticipate (trend aware 20/30-somethings), it’s the kind of place where a dull time is rare. (D5) ul. Poznanska 24

Między Nami With 18 years of service under their belt you may think of Między Nami as being an antiquated has-been. Not so.

Haunted by a mix of media types and local characters, this hip white piece of post-commie Warsaw has an enduring, almost timeless appeal. (D4) ul. Bracka 20, miedzynamicafe.com

Miejsce Chwila Surviving the move from their former digs is the giant mural of a weatherworn babcia, and it’s under her watery gaze that drinkers congregate to make the most of a decent fridge generously stocked with specialty beers from Poland’s more leftfield producers. Also successfully enduring the challenges of their cross-city move is the underlying spirit that made them so famous.

Defiantly arty in its character, the creative mood that prevails manifests itself in a quirky design that involves retro accents, refurbed armchairs, a neon of Lennon and the compelling illustrations of Izabela Wójtowicz. (D5) ul. Żurawia 47 Plan B Plan B is the very essence of dive Warsaw. Weekends pass by in a raucous blur, with the party spilling out under the colonnades outside – it helps to look like a DJ, but in truth everyone is welcome.

The hangover from this shabby, grubby bar is traumatic. (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), planb.pl

Kraken Rum Bar Named after one of the ocean’s most feared mythical creatures (the scary squid from Pirates of the Caribbean), the woodclad Kraken features a wall of cymbals, heavy furniture and some interesting photography. While there’s some decent bottles of rum, there’s perhaps not enough to justify calling it a rum bar. The place rocks though. (D5) ul. Poznańska 12 Legends Over the years Legends has earned a legendary status amongst the expats

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Przystań Nowa Fala If nothing else, 2018 will be remembered as the year the Wisła finally kicked-on to go more upmarket. Playing more than a bit part in all that is Przystań, a gorgeous, moored vessel with ample seating both inside and out. On the first level, order from a bar well-stocked with craft beers, world wines and funky cocktails, before heading to the open upstairs deck to join a fun, cosmopolitan crowd stretched out under the stars. (E2) Bulwar Gen. George’a Smitha Pattona

Sheesha Lounge Providing you don’t mind sharing the weekend with some of the most gloriously gorgeous people in the city, then a trip to Sheesha ticks all the boxes. Presenting itself in a whirl of action, the exotic, clubby atmosphere hits fever pitch come the midnight hour. Earlier, soak up the atmosphere with a scented hookah while lounging under eastern lights. (D5) Al. Jerozolimskie 33, sheesha.pl

Stixx It takes a moment to allow the sheer magnitude of Stixx sink in. Having adjusted to the wow factor of the interior – which can best be described as cosmopolitan-industrial – most retreat to the long, all weather deck which in itself is quite something: the aesthetics are such that a cocktail party on an oligarch’s yacht comes to mind. There aren’t many better places for a drink when the roof is rolled back and the stars twinkle above. (A4) Pl. Europejski 4A, tel. 22 340 4040, stixx.pl

Świetlica Long and narrow, dark and murky, it’s as raw as they come: toilets of grubby menace, a smoking room clad in spray art, broken fittings and general gloom.

Basically, it’s everything you demand from the last bar of the night – a place where you can slide into the shadows and watch the world spin around. (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 17 Targowy Nestled beneath Ed Red lies Targowy, a long bar cast in dim blue lights and permanent shadow: design thrills are minimal, but there’s a special something at work here, an X-factor of sorts.

Occupied simply by high tables and a bar composed of colored, plastic crates, what it lacks in visuals it makes up for via an offer that feels diverse and democratic: a smattering of craft beer, hardcore vodka, decent cocktails served by enthusiastic bar dudes. Simple in concept (“let’s create a bar with something for everyone,” you imagine the owners saying), but it really does work. We love it – lots. (B3) Pl. Mirowski 1

Ulubiona Set inside the archway, look for a heavy door next to a dented ashtray seemingly unemptied for the last couple of months.

drink! Listings Shadowy and shabby, you’ll usually find barflies strumming guitars or engrossed in a solo game of chess. An intensely personal experience, it’s a bar that compensates for its lack of glitz with a stoner-style ambiance that soon sweeps over all. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 27 W Oparach Absurdu Hidden under Persian rugs, velvety drapes and reclaimed antiques, some still refer to it as The Spider Bar in reference to the giant tarantula that once hung from the wall. There’s an air of louche 60s living here, and it gets weirder when bands with names like the Bum Bum Orchestra enter to play trumpets amongst vodka-tipping guests. (F1) ul. Ząbkowska 6

Warszawa Powiśle The prime months for this former ticket booth arrive each summer when the deckchairs outside provide ample opportunity for the city’s young and fashionable to gather in an almost carnival-like atmosphere. Once seen as the hipster Center of Power, it still maintains great popularity with whiskered, tattooed sorts. (E4) ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B, warszawapowisle.pl

Worek Kości A celebration of both the burlesque and bizarre, Worek Kości is the bar Edgar Allan Poe would create were he raised from the dead. A lively evening hangout with ad-libbed cocktails and an unconventional program of events, you’re as likely to visit during an open-mic night as you are a discussion on Silesian serial killers. This fascination with the morbid and macabre manifests itself by way of a quirky design featuring hundreds of skulls and book shelves lined with the complete works of Stephen King. (E7) ul. Bagatela 10 Wozownia Founded by the same people behind the ‘ruin bar’ inside the original Hala Koszyki (back when it was a decrepit pile of wobbly, black stonework), Wozownia brings together the hip and beautiful inside a 200-year-old carriage house.

The beer front is pretty dull, but the cocktails can be outstanding whilst the Prosecco is pretty much the cheapest glass of bubbles you’ll uncover in the city.

A sensation over summer, it’s one of the top pre-club spots in the center. Pl. Trzech Krzyży 16, fb.com/WozowniaBar

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cafés Być Może It’s all about artisan bread and breakfast in the industrial looking Być Może. It’s taken the concept of Charlotte (groan, there’s even a communal table), and improved it with excellent breads and a crowd that’s a little less pleased with itself. (E7) ul. Bagatela 14, bycmoze.com.pl Ceramiczna Unless you already live out there, you’re probably going to need a very good reason to visit Tarchomin. Ceramiczna is it. A strong candidate for our favorite interior in town, the design references the halcyon times of vintage design in a way that feels fresh and thrilling. It helps, too, that the coffee is outstanding. It’s a long way from the center, but you’ll want to stay here for hours. ul. Ceramiczna 20 Charlotte Menora If the air is smug and self-satisfied, there’s a good reason for that: Charlotte have come to embody modern urban Poland: energetic, ambitious and ferociously trend conscious. And to think, some look at it as a mere bakery. Occupying a long space, the latest outpost of this café chain doesn’t overlook the area’s Jewish heritage, with the menu featuring several Jewish delicacies: the bagels are ok. (C4) Pl. Grzybowski 2, bistrocharlotte.pl

Coffeedesk Looking flawless in her pearl white colors, Coffeedesk is a place that does it right. Brewed by expert coffeeologists, the humble cup of Joe becomes an object of adoration. Populated round-theclock by head-phoned freelancers and digital nomads tapping into their Macs, it’s a light, bright spot with a dynamic style and a keen sense of sexy. (D5 ul. Wilcza 42, fb.com/coffeedeskwilcza

Cophi So small you get the idea you could fit Cophi into the palm of your hand, yet no other place in Warsaw is more devoted to sourcing the best coffees in the world.

(D5) ul. Hoża 58/60

Czytelnia Universally hailed as home to the

city’s best flat white, Czytelnia’s drive for quality is mirrored by their habitual acquisition of the latest equipment and fiendish desire to showcase the latest trends and developments in the world of specialty coffee. Warm in ambiance and appearance, reading matter is plentiful, so too are cakes of pure sin. Dressed in light woods and brickwork, it’s a place that exudes positive vibes and a sense of chill. Al. Zjednoczenia 46, fb.com/cafeczytelnia Dobro & Dobro Cafe Measuring just six square meters (record attendance: 12 customers!), the tiniest cafe in Poland has grown into a cult stopoff for people looking to do something wacky. If you’re into karma, then buy a suspended coffee – order a coffee in advance for a stranger, write a personal message and then hang the cup from a string. (E8) ul. Puławska 11, fb.com/dobrocafe EmEsEn Heaving with heavyweight art titles and photo albums, the crowd that gathers in this café/bookstore is suitably leftfield and creative. On the work front, strong wifi and plenty of plugs make this one of the better venues in which to put your nose to the grindstone. Aiding your endeavors is a serious choice of coffee sourced from roasters such as The Barn from Berlin and Melbourne’s Atomica. (C4) ul. Pańska 3, fb.com/emesen.kawki

FatWhite_CoffeeBar Attached to a super cool barber shop (tatts, beards, crazy whiskers!), this tiny café has a beauty of an interior: swan white with surfaces graced by contemporary artwork that references the Muranów district and dozens of collectible superhero figures (plus a gun-toting Pacino). There’s a real scene going on here, with daylight hours usually packing out with social media types and urban fashionistas. Disarmingly friendly, it’s somewhere near the top of the Insider’s ‘must visit’ cafes. (C1) ul. Andersa 6 Forum Born with Instagram in mind, Forum has it all: super cool Afro-haired staff, a fashionably frayed interior, and a devoted client base that’s all about out-sized headphones and razor-thin laptops.

Changing weekly, the big pull is a menu of specialty coffees from acclaimed roasters

drink! Listings such as Five Elephant and The Coffee Collective fixed up by Poland’s AeroPress and Brewers Cup champion. (C3) ul. Elektoralna 11, forum.coffee

Lapidarium It’s high time that the Old Town Square had a café worth visiting, but would have thought that it would be a museum providing such? Run under the aegis of the Museum of Warsaw, visitors choose from rustic meals prepped locally by Gospoda Kwiaty Polskie, regional beers, Polish wine from Mierzęcin Palace and tea courtesy of Harney & Sons. Enjoy these in minimalistic vaulted interiors or in a soothingly calm courtyard garden stacked with gargoyles and other historic elements. (D1) Rynek Starego Miasto 40, lapidariumcafe.com

Kafka Café A chessboard floor and a collection of antlers on the wall characterize Kafka, a bookstore / café whose literary collection is composed of paperbacks rescued from recycling plants. Books are purchased by their weight (zł. 10 per kilo) while the menu includes pancakes, pastas and even doggy treats for your mutt. (E3) ul. Oboźna

Krem A chic city center hangout with all the swanky, urban elegance of the 8th arrondisement. Opened by the same team behind Monsieur Leon, find their latest little baby decorated with monochrome tiles, marble-topped tables, and retro-styled mirrors. A place of hip sophistication and laid-back vibe, the menu is built around French cheeseboards, raclette and super sexy baguettes.

Labour Cafe Labour Café’s door crashes open onto a busy space that sets bare raw materials of steel, wood, concrete and brick against lashings of plant life and bursts of poster art. But if the front part is all about catching up with friends and soaking up the vibe over bagels and ‘ethical’ coffee, then outback is where the serious stuff happens – discover a studiously quiet dual-level working space featuring a printer, flipcharts and plentiful light. (E4) ul. Tamka 49, labour.pl

Kawiarnia Fabryczna A place to eavesdrop, catch-up on gmail and daydream the morning away, head to this warm den to sink inside comfy retro chairs and soak up the natural light that pours through the window. Prepared on a Nuova Simonelli machine, the coffee hails from a range of pedigree roasters such as Warsaw’s own Coffee Lab. (E3) ul. Fabryczna 28/30, kawiarniafabryczna.pl

27, ministerstwokawy.pl

Kawiarnia Kawałek In a district that’s in the process of supersizing itself as Warsaw’s new business district, this neighborhood café offers a human touch in an area rapidly filling itself with glinting glass towers and gated compounds. The warmth of welcome aside, features of this charming bolt hole include coffee sourced from cult roasters as Rocket Bean, and a homemade machine knocking out year-round nitro that’s smoother than velvet. Seated around a small communal table, type your own ode to Wola on a typewriter first bought by the owner’s grandfather. (B4) ul. Łucka 18, fb.com/KawiarniaKawalek

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4, odette.pl

Relaks Expertly prepared, right down to the foam art, the baristas here use the finest imported machines and work only with fair trade, ‘specialty’ coffee. If you have time, the drip coffees are more than worth the wait. The crowded interiors supply a retro accent, and are enjoyed by a fashion aware, laptop-touting crowd.

(E9) ul. Puławska 48

(D6) ul. Śniadeckich 18

Ministerstwo Kawy Sourcing their coffee from Koppi, an internationally acclaimed Swedish roasting house, the ministry takes no short cuts in their pursuit of excellence.

Utilizing Ethiopian, Costa Rican and Brazilian arabicas – some exclusive to Poland – barista Wojciech Rzytki has earned a reputation across Poland for his expert hand. Rave reviews are standard and appropriate. (D6) ul. Marszałkowska

3, kawiarnia-kafka.pl

boutique teas served in a fragrant and elegant atmosphere. (C4) ul. Twarda

Relax Na Wilczej Characterized by structured simplicity, it’s a venue that maximizes space and light. Never overly complex, clean lines of vision are interrupted only by a scattering of coffee tomes and a statement mural

by Mariusz Tarkawian. Calm and intuitive, it’s an interior that feels both effective and efficient. And as for the coffee: one sip and you’re hooked. Order the silky smooth nitro. (D5) ul. Wilcza 17, fb.com/ RelaxNaWilczej

Resort Originally known for their OTT recycling motif (shopping trolleys re-purposed as seats, street signs as tables...), Resort have pared the design down replacing the old junk with a cool, caramel-colored look high on wood, plants and discreet retro accents. Craft beer, eco-friendly bites, clever cocktails and quality coffee contribute to their popularity, as does a busy events program that’s big on comedy and open mic nights. (C2) ul. Bielańska 1

Niezłe Ziółko Café & Deli A shrine to pure and healthy eating, this friendly café doesn’t just brew a great coffee, but bakes its own bread and produces its own yogurt. Sit in the loft to look down on shoppers scurrying to Mokotowska, and on the way out, check out ‘Grandma’s Cupboard’ in the corner: jams, spreads and olive oils are there to buy for home. (D5) ul. Krucza 17

Robusta With the generic Nero on one side, and the super cool Fat White on the other, Robusta occupies a middle ground in more ways than one. Whether it can compete with either is to be seen, but for now there’s no doubt that it’s mere existence is further proof of Andersa’s rising stock. To like: ample spaces, a chilled out playlist, an urbane design and wifi that’s as fast as an arrow. Hopes are high this could yet become a lynchpin of the area. (C1) ul.

Andersa 21A

Odette Tearoom Taking its lead from their original dessert stop on ul. Górskiego, the sister venue peddles glorious cakes and pralines as well as a hand-picked selection of

Same Fusy Suffused in a candle-lit glow, this 15th century cellar unwinds to reveal a charming brick room suspended in time. Filled

Drink! Listings with gnarled wooden oddities and tree stump tables, the sweet aroma of fragrant teas helps amplify the fairy tale mood. ul. Nowomiejska 10

Stor Buying their coffee from revered roasters such as Berlin’s Bonanza and Stockholm’s Drop Coffee, Stor have grown to become a giant presence on Warsaw’s café map. Visitors bask in natural light amid outbreaks of greenery and quirky design touches: time runs away here and before you know it hours have passed. ul. Tamka 33, fb.com/storcafe

Wrzenie Świata Those with journalistic leanings love Wrzenie Świata. It’s definitely more Macbook than Moleskine, but this bookstore/café attracts plenty of readers (and writers) to its book-lined interior.

Buzzing like a cafe should, it packs out for slideshows and seminars. (E4) ul.

Gałczyńskiego 7

clubs Enklawa Forget Tinder, Enklawa is the best pick-up joint around – a classic kitschy, glitzy disco, it draws in huge crowds with a simple lineup of pop and dance hits. Still regarded as the best Wednesday night in Warsaw, it’s the place for singletons looking for a one-night confidence boost.

(D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, enklawa.com

Luztro Don’t sit down, you won’t know what you might catch. Dark and generally filthy, Warsaw’s most (in)famous club only gets going around about three. As the hours click towards daybreak, the scenes of depravity are like something from Sodom and Gomorrah. Enjoyed by zombies that quite definitely don’t have to be up for work anytime in the next 48 hrs, it’s not just the full-on techno that will leave the brain rattling – it’s the craziest night in

Poland! (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, luztro.pl N58 The latest entry on Warsaw’s club circuit have issued a manifesto promising deep vocal house, r’n’b, mash-ups and theme nights centered around Afro Beats / trap / twerk and hip hop. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58 No Comment A secret world for those In The Know, find No Comment in a seedy-looking tower under Poniatowski Bridge. Clad in decadent, blue velvety surfaces, this tiny bi-level club feels redolent of an afterhours Parisian members club: everyone seems to know each other, and after a bottle of bubbles you will as well. (F4) Al. 3 Maja 16/18A, Most Poniatowskiego

Ritual Looking dark and sensual, this two-level space unwraps before you like some elaborate adventure. Candles flicker, atmosphere crackles – moving towards

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drink! Listings the bar, slinky, sultry club creatures of unfathomable beauty prowl past with drinks poised in hand. Heating up gradually as the night progresses, Ritual moves organically from being a voluptuous bar to a spicy club as the night ebbs towards its heady conclusion. (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, ritualwarsaw.com

Room 13 Connected by a series of inter-linking archways, rooms inside this dressy club throb at the weekends with a super sexy crowd letting loose under the vaulted ceilings. Now in their fifth year, it’s become a stalwart of the Mazowiecka scene. (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 13, room13.pl

rooftop deck: it’s pure NYC. (C4) ul. Twarda 18, theview.pl

4, cevichebar.pl

cocktails 6 Cocktails If 6 Cocktails has the feeling of hanging around someone’s flat that’s because, actually, you are. This posh Mokotowska apartment has been re-adapted as an exclusive bar frequented by leggy models and society figures: the parties are nuts!

Unmarked from street level, to enjoy the inventive cocktails message them on FB and await your invite. (E5) ul. Mokotowska 57

Sen Entering this top-floor joint, visitors are hit by a tidal wave of gorgeousness: wallto-wall with George Clooney lookalikes, off-duty celebrities and catwalk glamor pusses, the carefree hedonism is like something from a film – only tonight, you’re one of the stars. Sod the bank account, you think, bring me champagne: enjoy just that on a terrace deck slung with Edison bulbs, or indoors in an area festooned with deluxe sofas and floor-toceiling windows that stare out onto the National Stadium opposite. The good life doesn’t get any better. (F4) ul. Wioślarska 6 Spatif The varied music policy shines a light on a revolving schedule of sounds, pinning its attention on everything from jazz and soul to Britpop and electro.

Spread across a series of chambers decorated with vintage fittings, parquet floors and wood-paneled walls, Spatif’s main success lies in replicating that fun, spontaneous feel of a house party that’s spiraled out of control: no matter their individual back story, everyone gets on (and occasionally gets off). Just about the most unpretentious club night you’ll find, this labyrinthine pre-war tenement feels fun, diverse and never up its own arse.

The View Occupying the upper levels of a skyscraper, The View is a place of bubbles and beauties and all things glam. A world class venue, past crowd pullers include Bob Sinclair and David Morales.

In summer, the glam and the gorgeous won’t be seen anywhere but the open air

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citruses and Pisco infused with Yerba Mate. You won’t stop at one. (C4) ul. Twarda

Back Room Plush fabrics, muted lighting, intuitive service, a well-scrubbed crowd, a flickering fireplace and shelves displaying drinks as if they were trophies: the ambiance is nailed down to such an extent that those who use this speakeasy for pre-club drinks often find themselves skipping the club bit altogether. And why bother with anywhere else when you have masterpiece cocktails that are immaculate, imaginative and mixed with practiced expertise. The close quarters of the venue and playful nature of the guests make accidental conversation something of an occurrence. It’s a social place – be sociable! (D6) ul. Koszykowa 49A, fb.com/ BackRoomWarsaw

Biała Saska’s premier cocktail spot reaches its zenith each summer thanks to a leafy back garden that stands shaded by this modernist building: it’s worth visiting just to swan down the spiral stairs with a glass of something bubbly. ul. Francuska 2, fb.com/bialazjedziwypij

Ceviche Bar The ‘bar’ bit in the name isn’t a deceit, it’s there for a reason: here, the design, DJs and drinks work seamlessly to generate an ambiance that’s buzzy, energetic and something of a scene. Yet though the cocktails have long been celebrated, the ante’s been upped by a new ‘Nikkei’ card that combines Peruvian and Japanese techniques and ingredients. Of the standouts, none earn higher praise than the Matero, a mix of Japanese yuzu

Charlie Crowd: glam & vampy. The venue: equally so. Occupying the first floor of a pre-war tenement, there’s a magic here that summons the age of F. Scott Fitzgerald – Gatsby would love it. The ace in the pack is a ‘subconscious menu’ from which clients order mystery cocktails based on their scent. (E6) ul. Mokotowska 39 Column Bar Just the look of Column Bar sweeps you off your feet; there’s something breathlessly classy about it, like you’ve just entered Gatsby’s ballroom. You want to order a pyramid of champagne and dance on their piano. Behave, and order a cocktail instead. For a taste of the classics, the Column Bar is pretty peerless.

(D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44 (Hotel Bristol)

Cosmo Bar Though they’ve made a big noise about embracing a variety of initiatives aimed at maximizing sustainability, Tomek Roehr’s Cosmo Bar project, is more than a one-trick pony. Beyond the novelty factor is a scrupulous attention to detail that manifests itself in impeccable cocktails based around Polish produce – rowanberry, sea buckthorn and suchlike. Occupying a plush, little corner of the Cosmopolitan Tower, this is luxury with a conscience. ul. Twarda 4, cosmobar.pl

El Koktel The pert and pretty are here, so too the well-groomed modern man, but there’s a balance to the crowd that prevents any whiff of snob. As a bar it feels open-minded, engaging and intelligent, and those are traits that rub off on those present. Drinks – such as the smoking Out Of The Box – are insanely good, and served in a small, high-ceilinged interior busy with framed vintage posters, cyan-colored wallpaper, baffling photos of Lynch-esque scenes and gleaming strainers and shakers. (D4) ul. Wojciecha Górskiego 9, elkoktel.pl

Kita Koguta The staff aren’t afraid to get imaginative, and that includes serving cocktails in smoking coconut husks. Aimed at a

Drink! Listings younger crowd largely in their 20s, it’s a good-humored, lively cocktail bar that’s famed around the country for the creativity of its bartenders. Next door, visit their sister bar, Kiti. Dominated by a tall Polynesian totem, this ray of sunshine gets noted for extravagant cocktails served by game staff in zany shirts. (E5) ul. Krucza 6/14

T Podwale Bar & Books R C P T M the kind of charismatic Occupying C W gatehouse you’d read about in Dickens, ≈ W C position ≈ yourself in front of the upstairs C C fireplace ≈ for a celebratory cigar and a glassTof≈ something tall and lovely: the P E cocktails ≈ are in a class of their own and L S specifically customized for the season. (D2) HE MOST

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Long Bar Decked out with smooth marble, natural oak, striking art and soft tan leather, it’s a venue that writes a new chapter in the 160-year story of the venerable Europejski Hotel. Luxurious while never being excessive or ostentatious, there’s a calming sense of class that feels elegant yet relaxed: expensive, yes, prohibitive, no.

Intuitive service, sophisticated drinks and an interior that feels timeless yet historic in equal measure – for the full Raffles experience, order from their choice of signature Slings. (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13 (Raffles Europejski)

USINE

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PODWALE BARDunaj AND BOOKS ul.

Wąski 20, barandbooks.pl Wąski Dunaj 20, 00-256 Warsaw

Warmut Set in the Commie era No Man’s Land between Zbawiciela and Konstytucji, it’s become one of the hottest nights in town. This vermouth-inspired cocktail bar features classic and house creations, and a spectacular design involving street art, greenery and mirrored walls. But the piece de resistance? Those are the scale models of local landmarks that hang from the ceiling. Instagram them now before everyone else does. And don’t forget to head up the stairs to their cool little sister, Gram (see Bars). (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 45/49

Tel.: +48 225.599.199

The Roots Having recruited some of the top bartenders in Poland, The Roots have a serious artillery on which to rely. So committed is this haunt, its walls are graced by a vast collection of cocktail memorabilia: antique jiggers, shakers, coolers, not to mention an original signed copy of the world’s first V O L cocktail (published: 1862!). (C2) i n Y ahandbook P

Weles Named after the Slavic god of the underworld, everything about Weles evokes the spirit of indulgence: a zinc 1920s ceiling imported from the States, a crystal chandelier and a wooden bar carved from a British carousel. A work of refined craftsmanship, the cocktails stand out as the most sophisticated in the city.

ul. www.barandbooks.pl Wierzbowa

(D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 11, welesbar.pl

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A F R E N C H R E V E L AT I O N REDOLENT OF A PARISIEN COURTYARD BAKERY, YOU’LL SMELL THE AROMA OF OUR FRESHLY BAKED BREAD FROM DAWN. OPEN THROUGH THE DAY, WE’RE DELIGHTED TO SERVE OUR FAMOUS BREAKFASTS, TRADITIONAL PASTRIES NOT TO MENTION A SELECTION OF WINES FOR YOUR DINNER. WE LOOK FORWARD TO WELCOMING YOU.

Być Może

ul. Bagatela 14

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drink! Listings craft beer Artezan Pub The country has crazier breweries for sure, but does it have anyone more consistent than the lads at Artezan. Famed for their Pacific – the quintessential domestic IPA – Artezan’s flagship bar is a standard bearer not just for quality, but for Poland as a whole. (D4) ul. Moniuszki 1A Chmielarnia Marszałkowska A breath of fresh air when compared to the original – literally. Points are earned by whoever thought to add an Indian menu, while other pluses are awarded for a fridge housing exciting brews trending around the globe: from super cool Bermondsey breweries to Scandinavian legends, it’s a place you feel actually broadens your horizons. (E7) ul.

Marszałkowska 10/16

Craft Beer Muranów Though still an area thick with beretwearing, dachshund-walking oldies, Muranów is fast catching up with the rest of Warsaw. Taking care of the craft beer angle is this newbie, a bi-level bar with warm tones and 16 taps of beery goodness. ul. Andersa 23, fb.com/craftbeermuranow

Cuda Na Kiju Where it all began. Summer catches

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Warsaw’s original tap bar at its best, with the courtyard of the former Communist Party HQ now home to an entirely different kind of party: on occasions find food trucks and film screenings, and all other times just a massive crowd getting sloshed on 15 types of tap beer. But even outside the sweaty months Cuda is worth the visit: drink inside a modern, glass cube that’s refreshingly contemporary.

(E4) ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, cudanakiju.pl

Cześć It started as a café, but now Cześć is better known as being at the forefront of the new generation of ‘quali-tap’ bars – small little places with six or so beers on tap. The two owners, Piotrek and Kuba, take their beer seriously, so do expect plenty of new finds as well as traditional favorites from stalwarts like Artezan and Pinta. The laidback, neighborhood atmosphere is making it increasingly popular with a tight-knit circle of ex-pat drinkers. (C3) ul. Grzybowska 2 (through the side passage), czesc.waw.pl

Czeska Baszta Contained within a grotty bridge support, divey Czeska is permanently immersed in a foggy, yellow glow. Boisterous but extremely friendly, there’s a reason for all the man hugs and back slaps: everyone’s smashed! The frothy pints of lager are sourced from the owner’s favorite small town breweries, and the

fridge kept stocked courtesy of his own cross-border forays. (E4) Tower 22A, Most Poniatowskiego, czeskabaszta.pl

Drugie Dno The natural start (or finish) point of any Nowogrodzka pub crawl, head to The Double D for a space that conjures to mind a disused power station: sporting rugged brickwork and a scuffed style, the neo-industrial look is ramped up with the liberal use of steel girders, vintage voltage meters and toilets disguised as elevator shafts. Sixteen taps to drink through, many of them offering extreme drinking solutions from Europe’s most radical breweries. Looks great, tastes great, a factor that ensure a male-to-female ratio that feels roughly equal. (D5) ul.

Nowogrodzka 4

Drugie Dno Ochota Choice is thinner than the original (just eight taps), but there’s something here that really seems to work. Set over two floors, there’s a warmth and atmosphere that radiates throughout. An interesting design inspired by the original is matched with decent pizzas and a location down a leafy side street that’s gradually getting noticed for its neighborhood scene. (A6) ul. Tarczyńska 5/9

Goraczka Zlota Get down with the locals at Gorączka Złota, a steamy pub with a rowdy

Drink! Listings atmosphere. Touting the dimensions of a cabin boy’s quarters, this pungent, pokey den is one of the oldest bars in town.

Despite carrying many epic beers from Poland’s rebel brewers, there’s nothing faddish about GZ and it’s this sense of normalcy that lends it its enduring appeal.

(D5) ul. Wilcza 29, goraczka-zlota.com.pl

Jabeerwocky Steeped in multinational drunken babble, the super sociable Jabbers is famed for its innovative beer selection and convivial atmosphere. Mark it down as an absolute must-visit, especially if you’re a fan of stout and cider. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 12

Kufle i Kapsle Found somewhere round the top of Warsaw’s hierarchy of craft beer bars, Kufle welcomes all, from entry level novices taking their first steps in the beery world to note-taking nerds conducting research for their blogs. Interiors are respectful of the building’s pre-war heritage and are

thick with noise, clamor and the reassuring smell of spillage. The edgy beer selection becomes is even more radical when you look down in the fridge. (D5) ul.

Nowogrodzka 25 Kufle i Kapsle Powiśle Doing it in a way that feels shabby, gritty but yet totally cool, this is a bar that riffs on themes of industrial and retro to maximum effect. Ground floor: a small bar area with a secret strip of seating snaking back behind; upstairs, the kind of retro furnishings last seen when Brezhnev was wearing shorts. On tap, find a fluctuating choice of 12 crazy beers sourced from the kind of breweries that make Poland seem progressive. When you’re done, prove your allegiance to KiK by visiting their third venue in Żoliborz. (E3) ul. Solec 46A Maryensztadt Craft Beer It’s a mixed crowd of locals and tourists that gather in Maryensztadt, a large bar whose 12 taps showcase the highs (and

occasional lows) produced by the brewery that gives this pub its name. Set across a series of cavernous chambers inside an attractive Old Town property, its not just beer buffs that it appeals to: sourcing their ingredients from small-scale farmsteads, the kitchen wing of Maryensztadt does a convincing job of representing the tastier side of regional Poland. (D1) ul.

Szeroki Dunaj 11

Mikkeller Bar Warsaw Light and bright the sparsity of the interior is a surprise: a classic case of less is more, here the punchline is given to the beer. That means twenty taps firing out a revolving roster of kickass beers that, thus far, have included lambic-style ‘SpontanPear’ and yuzu flavored Berliner weisse. It’s an utter geek-gasm for beer nerds. Prices for the Danish stuff start in the early 20s and soar upwards to reach eye-watering levels – in return, you’re getting brilliant beer that breaks brewing boundaries. For cheapskates, Polish

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drink! Listings options kick-off at approx. 13 PLN. (D4) ul.

Chmielna 7/9, fb.com/MikkellerBarWarsaw Same Krafty Squashed into two narrow, rugged rooms decorated with benches and rough plaster walls, Same Krafty have rescued Old Town from big beer brands peddling piss.

Offering artisan alternatives, this intimate bar lures daring tourists looking to explore the more subversive side of Polish brewing. Sustenance comes by way of big wheels of pizza that are surprisingly good.

(D1) ul. Nowomiejska 10

for gentlemen

Smiths. At other times, you’ll be listening to touring Berlin-based bands, hardcore DJs or psychedelic soul from the likes of King Khan And The Shrines. If it’s weird, it’s on. ul. Burakowska 12, fb.com/klubpoglos

vodka Dom Wódki Those expecting Dom Wódki to be a standard mucky shot bar are in for a surprise.

Sparkling with over 250 artisanal vodkas, find them incorporated into inspirational drinks mixed by Tomasz Małek, a world champion flair bartender. More than just show, the tastes are incredible. (C2) ul.

Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl

Playhouse Housed in a former subterranean bomb shelter, the talk now is of bombshells: namely the 57 stunners they’ve got listed on their books. Inspired by high class joints in London and Vegas, it’s a refined choice with a no-pressure atmosphere and door staff that don’t look like they’re going to kick your head in. (B3) Al. Solidarności 82A, playhouse.pl

live music

Hydrozagadka Set out in the wildlands of Praga, consider Hydrozagadka as the heart of unforced cool. Known for its alternative music scene, the low-ceiling and tight, crowded nature of it generate an electrifying atmosphere where the audience and band become one. Walking a fine line between industrial and straight out decrepit, the atmosphere is second to none: drinks flow, strangers meet and music smashes out: you can feel something special happening here. ul. 11 Listopada 22, hydrozagadka.waw.pl

Klub Pogłos Arguably Warsaw’s No. 1 venue for alternative music, Pogłos checks all the requisite boxes: a divey, gritty look, a liberal atmosphere and an army of fans willing and eager to embrace the seamier side of night. The packed program of events runs from spoken word performances and vegan BBQs, to sweaty tribute concerts celebrating The

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WuWu Open round-the-clock, this 24-hour bar is the place in which to enjoy a prodigious choice of vodka inside a chic, dimly-lit environment that resounds to the singalong hits of communist Poland.

Serving classic drinking bites (sour cream and herring, beef tartar, etc.) and an array of expertly fixed cocktails, it’s a spot that promises to become the place to be for a higher class of night owl. If this is gentrification, we’re all for it. (G1) Pl. Konesera 1

wine bars

Bubbles Such is the style of Bubbles it feels like Valentine’s all year round: high on intimacy, it’s a charming ensemble of rickety crates and deep, dark colors. But the clincher, that’s the prodigious selection of champagne. Now while you’d usually expect a champagne bar to be filled with footballers wives and berks with fake tans, Bubbles feels inclusive, convivial and anything but vain. (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, bubbles.com.pl

Dekant Wine Bar Set inside an attractive open space, the opening of Dekant is a further indication of Powiśle’s shift from hipster epicenter to upscale playground (Robert Lewandowski has been spotted here!). The list comprises over 400 wines from the most prestigious producers in the world, right

the way down to tiny, little vineyards you’ve probably never heard of. If the sun is out, aim for a place on their back terrace. (E3) ul. Zajęcza 15, dekant.com.pl Mielżyński Wine Bar Founded in 2004, this ivy-clad warehousestyle enterprise lit the touch paper for Poland’s wine revolution. Emanating casual city cool, it’s still the yardstick against which all others are measured.

It’s a default choice for first dates, and if things go well then walk amid the shelves and pick something for later. (A1) ul.

Burakowska 5/7 (also on Czerska 12)

Nowina The striking interior that catches the eye from across the street – restored pre-war tiling, glinting surfaces, a world map rendered from corks and an engaging reddish glow all do their bit to lend Nowina the kind of atmosphere that’s missing in most local wine bars. Add to that an exciting international menu and a selection of over 400 wines and you have an absolute winner. ul. Nowogrodzka 4, nowina.waw.pl

Rusiko Wine Bar Designed to act as a casual extension of the neighboring Rusiko restaurant, this wine bar showcases Warsaw’s biggest selection of Georgian wine inside an interior that feels intimate, jazzy and highly atmospheric. Elaborate rugs, deep rouge in color, hang from tall sapphire walls, while impossibly high ceilings do much to generate a swirl of soft, muffled sound. (E5) Al. Ujazdowskie 22 Winosfera Once a pre-war cinema, now a stunning wine bar / store with one of the most impressive collections in Poland: an expense account comes in handy. Equally notable is the ambitious fine dining menu of Jakub Adamczyk. (B3) ul. Chłodna 31 Winsky There’s over 300 labels in all, of which 24 are served from Enomatic wine dispensers. Beyond the novelty factor, applause goes to an intelligent and flexible choice that features the big boys as well as a number of niche tipples you’ll rarely find in Poland. Enjoy them in a beautiful velvety interior facing the inky, black waters of the Wisła. (F4) ul. Wioślarska 10

do!

FROM POLAND WITH LOVE

Founded with a fondness (but not longing!) for the PRL period, the retro undercurrent of this souvenir store is impossible to ignore. Proudly stocking only domestically produced objects, head to Love Poland Design to stock up on wacky Palace of Culture socks, amusing mugs, illustrative poster art and cotton bags adorned with mermaids, goats and other city emblems. Quirky, fun and vibrant, it’s a firm departure from the hackneyed gift shops usually flourish in Poland – that you don’t need to be a tourist to enjoy it says much for the depth, appeal and quality of their offer.

Love Poland Design ul. Chmielna 30, lovepolanddesign.pl

warsawinsider.pl

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DO! Review

PICTURE THIS! Head through the mists of time and immerse yourself in the Warsaw of old as captured by the legendary photographer, Tadeusz Rolke…

DSH ul. Karowa 20, dsh.waw.pl

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PHOTOGRAPHS BY TADEUSZ ROLKE COURTESY OF DSH

S

aluted the country over as one of the founding fathers of Polish photo reportage, Tadeusz Rolke first had his interest in photography stirred during the war. Captivated by the images in magazines such as Die Wehrmacht, Rolke – who was an active member of a wartime paramilitary scouting group called The Grey Ranks – was inspired to purchase a Kodak Baby Box which he used to capture images of daily life under German occupation.

Having found his calling early on in life, the following decades saw Rolke become one of the biggest names in Polish photography. Collaborating with titles such as Stolica, Polska, Ty i Ja and Przekrój, he soon earned a golden reputation for his fashion shoots as well his portrayal of artistic life in PRL Poland. Celebrating his 90th birthday this coming May, to mark the occasion Dom Spotkań z Historią have chosen to present over 150 pictures personally selected by Rolke himself. Ongoing until June 9th, expect a beautifully nostalgic journey into the Warsaw of the 50s and 60s.

BROUGHT TO YOU BY THE SILENT MOVIE FESTIVAL

16. święto

niemego kina Sherlock Holmes

4 – 7.04.2019 KINO ILUZJON WARSZAWA

detectives inspired by him, among them Sherlock Holmes by Arthur Berthelet from 1916 (found in 2014), with the legendary William Gillette in the title role.

Although this cinematic genre has featured before at the Silent Movie Festival, this will be the first time that they have shown adaptations of the works of Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, and these films will also be supplemented with other references to the genre, pastiches and apocrypha. Particularly noteworthy are two films in which the main characters are women: The Secret Castle from 1914 and Filibus, directed by Mario Roncoroni, from 1915, which is something of a genre hybrid – this will be the global sneak preview of a recently restored version.

SERGE BROMBERG

pełen program i wydarzenia towarzyszące na stronie

www.swietoniemegokina.pl ORGANIZATORZY

PATRONI MEDIALNI

PATRONI MEDIALNI

PATRONI MEDIALNI

PARTNERZY PROGRAMOWI

PARTNERZY

Another important element of the program is a show created by Serge Bromberg in which he showcases his personal selection of films. This French champion of silent cinema, known as the ‘Indiana Jones of Lost Movies’, has for decades been bringing silent movies closer to cinema audiences, and has constantly surprised all with his innovative approach to the subject.

While the full program won’t be revealed until the day of the show, it will contain the most valuable films from the first years of the twentieth century: After the Ball (1897) and The Fireman of the Folies Bergères from 1927 featuring an uncredited Josephine Baker. Some of these films have never been shown before in Poland on the big screen in their restored versions.

MOVIES FROM 100 YEARS AGO ELEMENTARY!

The Silent Movie Festival, the flagship event of the National Film Archive – Audiovisual Institute, will be held on April 4-7 at the Iluzjon cinema at 50A Narbutta Street and the FINA HQ at 3/5 Wałbrzyska Street. And this year’s star?

Sherlock Holmes!

SHERLOCK HOLMES

Why Sherlock? In 2009, a small but very valuable collection of film tapes containing lost films from the silent movie era were discovered in a church basement in Sosnowiec.

Among them was The Hound of the Baskervilles from 1929, directed by Richard Oswald. This movie, the last silent film based on a story featuring the brilliant detective Sherlock Holmes, was restored by FINA in a partnership project with the San Francisco Silent Film Festival. As a result, their collection now contains the only known surviving 35 mm print of the film. The premiere screening of this restored find will open the 16th Silent Movie Festival.

The decision to present The Hound of the Baskervilles was the starting point for a program of films from that period where the heroes are either Sherlock himself or

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This edition of the Silent Movie Festival will also see the launch of a new permanent cycle in the repertoire of the Iluzjon cinema, entitled simply Movies From 100 Years Ago. Throughout the year, and not just on ‘special festival occasions’, the cycle will present movies considered milestones in the development of world cinema. One of these latter films is the 1919 movie which will open the cycle – Behind the Door.

A WEEKEND WITH SHERLOCK AT WAŁBRZYSKA 3/5

While traditionally held at the Iluzjon cinema, since the establishment of FINA The Silent Movie Festival also has at their disposal the premises of the newly-established institution. As such, this year Holmes fans are invited to 3/5 Wałbrzyska Street for a wide range of activities before screenings at Iluzjon. Together with the organizers of Sherlockon, they have prepared workshops, panels, lectures, radio plays and film screenings, which means that even the most fastidious ‘Sherlockists’ will find something of interest for them…

DO! museums

POSTER MUSEUM

Copernicus Science Centre Featuring hundreds of interactive exhibitions, it’s a place that allows young and old alike to blast objects into space, experience an earthquake or steer exploratory robots. ul.

Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, kopernik.org.pl

CSW Situated in a baroque-style castle the center hosts artists from all over the world.

The on-site bookshop is of particular interest for artists and intellectuals. ul. Jazdów 2, csw.art.pl

Dom Spotkań z Historią The History Meeting House wins points for small but frequently excellent exhibitions that cover topics such as ‘rebuilding Warsaw’ and ‘Socialist Realist architecture.’

ethnomuseum.pl

Fotoplastikon Thought to date from 1905, Warsaw’s Fotoplastikon generates 3D perspectives from a set of 2D images: visitors peer through an eyepiece and are taken on a trip around the world while music from days yore parps away in the background. Al. Jerozolimskie 51, fotoplastikonwarszawski.pl

Fryderyk Chopin Museum The 18th century Ostrogski Palace is the perfect foil for the ultra-modern content of this multi-sensory space. The personal items are enchanting, but the big victory here is the museum’s ability to suck visitors right back into the times of Chopin through the use of interactive sights and sounds. ul. Okólnik 1, chopin.museum

ul. Karowa 20, dsh.waw.pl

Ethnographic Museum Considerably revamped to meet the demands and attention-spans of the 21st century sightseer, the Ethnographic Museum is a visual pleasure that showcases colorful costumes, fabrics and ceramics from Poland and beyond. ul. Kredytowa 1,

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The Heritage Interpretation Center This small venue tells the complex story of Old Town’s reconstruction: if the first section about Warsaw’s physical elimination is poignant, then the others do a fabulous job of sharing the optimism and alacrity that followed. ul.

Brzozowa 11-13, mhw.pl

Z AC H Ę TA

Jewish Historical Institute Officially opened in 1947 the Jewish Historical Institute was created to serve as an archive of Jewish culture in Warsaw. It contains artwork, historical artifacts and important documents from the city’s rich Jewish past. ul.

split into a few different sections: one devoted to state and subversive literature, others to fashion and style.

The highlight, though, is the recreation of a commie-era apartment. ul. Piękna 28/34,

Tłomackie 3/5, jhi.pl

Museum of Praga The Praga Museum tells the story of the area with such charm and simplicity that it manages to leave an unlikely impression that’s as punchy as that of the big institutions. Star billing goes to a restored Jewish prayer room and the Flying Carpet: an exhibit festooned with various trinkets and treasures once available for purchase from local pavement traders. ul. Targowa

Katyń Museum This museum commemorates the murder of 21,000 Polish officers by the Soviets in the spring of 1940. Beyond its quite staggering architectural merit, the museum has done a stunning job of collecting and presenting artifacts relating to the slaughter. ul. Jeziorańskiego 4, muzeumkatynskie.pl

Marie Skłodowska-Curie Musuem Reopened after a significant re-haul, this museum celebrates the groundbreaking scientist that discovered polonium. The Curie-osities include lab equipment, her trademark black dress and even her nail file. ul. Freta 16, en.muzeum-msc.pl

Museum of Communist Life Lovingly assembled by its young owner, the museum is

adventurewarsaw.com

50/52, muzeumwarszawy.pl

Museum of Warsaw Over 8,000 objects detail the story of Warsaw, and these include peculiar souvenirs, scale models, old postcards and recovered works of art.

Cohesive and comprehensive yet never too overwhelming, the trail climaxes with vertiginous views of the Rynek below. Unmissable.

Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42,

DO! museums

COPERNICUS SCIENCE CENTER

National Museum Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars. Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.

prison assumed a doubly sinister function under the Nazis. Some 100,000 Polish political prisoners were held here, 37,000 of which were executed on-site. Split in two sections, cells are found on one side, while on the other the full story of the invasion and occupation. ul. Dzielna

art.pl

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muzeumwarszawy.pl

The Neon Museum Filled with salvaged signage, this museum houses several dozen neons that once lit up the capital. The emphasis is firmly on the PRL era, a time when the nation’s best graphic designers were nutty for neon. ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org

Palmiry National Memorial Museum An excellent multimedia exhibition set next to a cemetery holding the graves of 1,700 Poles executed in the first years of Nazi occupation.

The museum tells their forgotten story as well as that of the siege and subsequent occupation of Warsaw.

Palmiry, palmiry.mhw.pl

Pawiak What was once a Tsarist

Polin Composed of eight galleries, each covers a different stage of local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day. Highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec synagogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical inter-war Jewish Warsaw street. Named the European Museum of the Year in 2016. ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl

Polish Vodka Museum Documenting the nation’s 600-year-old love affair with the tipple, visits kick-off in earnest with displays that trace the origins of the drink, its early beginnings as a medicinal supplement, and its gradual acceptance into mainstream society. High-

NEON MUSEUM

lights include a motherlode of vintage bottles and an interactive chamber in which visitors can test their alcohol knowledge, learn about salutation customs and strap-on goggles to see the disorienting effects of overconsumption. Pl. Konesera 1, muzeumpolskiejwodki.pl

Exhibits range from a full-size replica of a Liberator plane, to a sewer beneath the cinema screen and a slice of bread preserved from 1944.

And don’t miss the ‘City of Ruins’, a five minute 3D film which takes you on an aerial journey over devastated Warsaw. ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl

The Royal Castle in Warsaw Highlights include the lavishly restored 18th century royal apartments with 22 paintings by Canaletto, the Senators’ Chamber in which the Constitution of the Third of May was signed, the biggest collection of oriental rugs in Europe and two remarkable Rembrandt paintings. Pl. Zamkowy 4, zamek-krolewski.pl

The Warsaw Amber Museum Part of Bursztynek, a dedicated amber shop, has been turned into a curious museum detailing the history of amber. Rynek Starego Miasta 4/6, bursztynek.co

Warsaw Rising Museum Cope with the crowds to discover the definitive story of the 1944 Uprising in town.

Wola Museum What was once a dreary old place has been rebooted as a smart communityminded museum and one of the most forward-thinking institutions in the capital.

Bringing the wider area of Wola alive, find engaging content that’s creatively presented: posters, family memorabilia and various media relating to the area. ul.

Srebrna 12, mhw.pl

Zachęta National Art Gallery Regarded as one of Poland’s most prestigious galleries, the Zachęta has a busy program of temporary exhibitions that frequently showcase some of the biggest names in domestic and international contemporary art. Pl. Małachowskiego 3, zacheta.art.pl warsawinsider.pl

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DO! Listings preschools American School of Warsaw American School of Warsaw provides a rich, meaningful and balanced educational experience through age-appropriate activities to students aged 3 to 5. For further information and/or to visit our school, contact:admissions@aswarsaw.org or 22 ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel.

22 702 85 00, aswarsaw.org 702 85 00.

The British Primary School of Wilanów

Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9. Please email admissions@ bswilanow.org to organise a visit.

45% of their admissions are international students. The dedicated, IB-trained teachers deliver an innovative program (PYP) in English designed for modern world needs. The program offers a combination of Literacy, Maths, Social Studies, Science, Physical Education, Art, Music & Rhythmics, French and Polish classes.

The British School Early Years Centre The British School provides EYFS classes from Pre-nursery (age 30 months) to Reception (5 years old). Children develop quickly and their Early Years practitioners aim to do all they can to help your child have the best possible start in life and become a lifelong learner. ul. Dąbrowskiego

ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, canadian-school.pl

84 (Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646 7777 , thebritishschool.pl

We are a values-driven school offering a world-class education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS)Based in a purpose built premises in

The Canadian School of Warsaw Preschool Welcoming students from the ages of 2.5 to 6 years old, currently

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations) Warsaw Montessori School Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have three green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin.

The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in earlychildhood education in English according

OUR ANNUAL SPRING

INVITATION EASTER EGG PAINTING, PALM MAKING, POTTERY WORKSHOP, LIVE ANIMALS, BASKET WEAVING AND MUCH, MUCH MORE...

This Invitation is for children from 0 months to 18 years and their families RSVP: Kinga Chmiel, T:+ 48 692 099 134, E: office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl

warsaw montessori family

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Warsaw Insider | APRIL 2019

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SATURDAY (SOBOTA)

APRIL 2019, 13.00 - 16.00 Warsaw Montessori School, Szwoleżerów 4

DO! Listings to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob.

692 099 134, warsawmontessori.edu.pl

International Trilingual School of Warsaw Established in 1994, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fill-immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/saint-exupery.pl

The English Playhouse The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old. For more info or to arrange a tour call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email: jnowak@theenglishplayhouse. com ul. Pływiańska 14a, tel. 22 843 9370, tep.edu.pl

a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, mapletreemontessori.pl

Międzynarodowa Szkoła Podstawowa Argonaut This elementary school is open for children of all nationalities and backgrounds.

It places a focus on learning English as well as additional languages, and has an attractive list of available extracurricular activities.ul. Radarowa 6, tel. 504 509 504, argonaut.edu.pl

Maple Tree Montessori Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and

Montessori Academy for International Children An English-speaking pre-school (16 months to 6 years of age) with two locations. The school’s policy is to comply with Montessori standards, using the Montessori Method in English. The school’s philosophy is based on the joy of

The pursuit

of excellence We promise to support your child to love learning and achieve more than they ever thought possible.

www.thebritishschool.pl

Please email admissions@thebritishschool.pl or call (0048) 22 842 32 81 ext. 125 to arrange a tour warsawinsider.pl

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DO! Listings learning, which comes from discovering and furthering the individual development of each child. ul. Królewicza Jakuba 36 (Wilanów), ul. Sadowa 4 (Konstancin), Open 8:00-16:45, tel. 502 315 022, montessoriacademy.eu

Montessori Stepping Stones An intimate, international, English-speaking preschool located in Powsin that follows the Montessori philosophy which emphasizes the individuality of each child.

Children from the ages of 1.5-years-old to 6-years-old are welcome, with the school’s goals aimed at facilitating the individual development of the child, both physical and mental, through a system that is focused on the spontaneous use of the human intellect. ul. Przyczółkowa 140, tel. 728 939 582, montessoristeppingstones.pl

Trilingual Pre-school and Nursery “Three Languages” Center The only trilingual pre-school and nursery teaching English, Spanish and Polish through total language immersion. All educators are native speaker pre-school teachers. The comprehensive curriculum follows American, Spanish and Polish curriculum standards. The pre-school was awarded European Language Label in 2012. ul. Karowa 14/16 lok 6 (3-6 year

Program in Grades 11 and 12. Students are inspired and challenged every day by experienced and dedicated teachers, who provide enriching learning opportunities in a world class facility. For further information contact: admissions@aswarsaw. org or 22 702 85 00. ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, aswarsaw.org

olds); ul. Cicha 5 lok 1 (1-2 year olds), tel. 517 872 682, 3languages.pl

schools

American School of Warsaw ASW is a premier college-preparatory international school that offers a PK-12 curriculum, including the IB Diploma

The British Primary School of Wilanów We are a values-driven school offering a world-class education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS) Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9. Please email admissions@bswilanow.org to organise a visit.

AMERICAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW

Come and discover why every student loves learning at our school

Open House April 4th 10:00-13:00 www.aswarsaw.org/openhouse Email inquieries to: admissions@aswarsaw.org

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Warsaw Insider | APRIL 2019

DO! Listings Key Stages to the IGCSE examinations and a well-established International Baccalaureate (IB) Diploma Program.

The British School Premium international school established in 1992 by Nord Anglia Education. The curriculum is designed to provide the highest academic quality of education. They follow the English National Curriculum, adapted to the needs of their international student community: from Primary through to the Secondary

ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, thebritishschool.pl

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations) Warsaw Montessori School Guided by trained

specialists, students will be responsible for managing their household, operating small businesses, caring for local flora and fauna as well as domesticated animals, taking charge of the younger children and much more. “Adolescence Program” activities, integrated with academic studies, help students discover their inner strength to meet life’s real challenges. ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel.

22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, warsawmontessori.edu.pl

Accepting applications for Nursery to Year 9 bsw.com.pl +48 221 110 062 ul. Hlonda 12, Warsaw admissions@bswilanow.org

monnet international school

PADDINGTON BEAR KINDERGARTEN

IB World School no 001483

on's ngt LUB i d Pad EN'S C EN LDR CHI OW OP N

Education for a better world

Belwederska 6a, Warsaw

www.maturamiedzynarodowa.pl/przedszkole warsawinsider.pl

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DO! Listings Casa dei Bambini Warsaw Montessori School A leader in the field of Montessori education, well-trained teachers guide students to independent and successful learning with both English and bilingual classrooms provided. Located just steps from Lazienki Park, the school resides in vibrant surroundings near to museums, embassies and natural settings which provide students with learning outside the classroom. ul. Szwoleżerów 4 (grades 0-4), tel. 608 488 420; ul. Tatrzańska 5A (grades 5-8), tel. 604 137 826; ul.

Pytlasińskiego 13 (high school), tel. 787 095 835, wmf.edu.pl

The Canadian School of Warsaw International Elementary and Middle School Located on two campuses in the Mokotów this is the only authorized IB School with PYP programs taught in English and Polish. French is taught as a third language. Offers a wide range of extra activities, a summer school, and employs a full time psychologist. Provision is made for additional Polish and English support. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create the perfect learning environment. ul. Bełska 7, tel. 692 411 573 / 885 420 044, secretary@ canadian-school.pl

The English Primary The English Primary is designed specifically for children in the primary education ages, just as children experience in England but in an international community. Pupils are taken through the key learning stages so that they can achieve to the best of their ability through a fun learning experience. The Core Curriculum subjects include English, Phonics, Science, Mathematics, French, PE and Swimming, Music, Personal, Social and Health Education. ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 784

International School of Warsaw The International School of Warsaw offers education for children from 3 to 18-years old. ISW provides a holistic education that combines a high quality international curriculum based on the International Baccalaureate with extra scholarly activities such as outdoor classes, robotics or STEAM. Lessons are conducted in English or French as main a language. Additionally, students can choose foreign language classes in Polish, Spanish, German, Chinese, Russian, or French. ISW is the only school in Poland accredited by the European Union. ul.

037 808, tep.edu.pl

Mazowiecka 43, isw.edu.pl

International Trilingual School of Warsaw Established in 1994, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fill-immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/saint-exupery.pl

adult learning Cup of Polish Personalized Polish classes adapted to meet your needs. Also home/company visits and online courses. For a free 60-minute trial email: kontakt@cupofpolish.com. cupofpolish.com Together School With locations in both Kraków and Warsaw, Together have seven years of experience teaching Polish and English for everyday life, business and general communication. Mariensztat 8

Hello Learn Polish with the best teachers in the biggest school i n Wa r s a w.

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DO! Listings HEALTH & BEAUTY gyms

Exuma Gym Warsaw’s latest luxury gym features equipment by Life Fitness and Hammer Strength, a wellness zone, private parking and stunning views of the National Stadium across the river. ul. Wioślarska 10,

spas & salons Clochee Natural, organic cosmetic brand that’s been dubbed a ‘pro-health project for your body and soul’. Using only certified ingredients, Clochee’s beauty products bring you closer to nature. Newlylaunched, their flagship store also houses a top-notch spa facilities. ul. Nowolipki 13,

It's Time to Learn Polish

spa.clochee.com/spa

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Holmes Place Premium Three ‘premium locations’, with the Hilton and Regent branches housing a 25-meter pool. Sauna and steam room facilities are available in all all three, as are a varied timetable of classes plus personal training. ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel), ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), holmesplace.pl

Creamy Creamy Creative Cosmetics offering a wide range of cosmetics which are based mainly on the deeply nourishing Haitian Moringa Oil. Created by Zofia PinchinatWitucka, a Haitian-Pole whose life goal has been to bring the two countries closer, Creamy’s cosmetics are vegan and cruelty-free and do not contain any synthetic dyes nor fragrances, petroleum

Polish for Foreigners kontakt@cupofpolish.com cupofpolish.com tel. +48 508 700 508

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DO! Listings components, sulphates or silicones.

Creamy SPA offers original Haitian facial massage based on Creamy’s vegan cosmetics. ul. Chmielna 6 (Warsaw), creamy.pl

ouch!

DEPILACJA WOSKIEM

Ouch!

Experts in waxing, Ouch! aim their offer at ‘busy women looking for express treatments with lasting effects who, at the same time, appreciate a sense of intimacy’. ul. Belwederska 32, ouch.pl PARDON MY FRENCH

manicure pedicure

Pardon My French Manicure and pedicure treatments with high quality lacquers and an awareness of global trends: if you need an endorsement, Paul McCartney visited when he was in Poland! ul. Belwederska 32; Bonifraterska 8; ul.

adorable baby clothes and various accessories. ul. Mokotowska 61

home & design

Lui Store Elegant female fashion store with brands including Attico, Rixo London, 3.1 Philip Lim, Les Coyottes de Paris, Jonathan Simkhai, as well as lesser-known names making their first in-roads into the world of high fashion. ul. Mokotowska 26, lui-store.

August Design Studio Inspired by ‘the joy of simplicity’, discover a world of handmade, artsy ceramics and other ‘design objects’ that are as functional as they are beautiful. Your shelves won’t ever feel the same! ul. Brzozowa 6/8A

Moliera 2 Boutique Brands: Alexnadre Birman, Alexandre Vauthier, Aquazzura, Balmain, Beach Bunny, Burberry, Buscemi, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Cult Gaia, Francesco Russo, Gianvito Rossi, Golden Goose, Herve Leger, Isabel Marant, Kenzo, Maison Michel, Marc Jacobs, Manolo Blahnik, Moncler, OneTeaspoon, Self-Portrait, Tod’s, Tory Burch, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon, Zimmermann. ul. Moliera 2, moliera2.com

Mokotowska 56, ul. Wilcza 3 pardonmyfrench.pl

sport Hangar 646 Hangar 646 touts 50 interlinked trampolines, a ping pong zone, ball pools and even a snowboard slide where visitors hurtle down a ramp before splashing down on an inflatable mattress. ul. Wał

(enter from ul. Bugaj), augustdesignstudio.pl

com

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Brands: Beach Bunny, Buscemi, Canada Goose, Casadei, Christian Louboutin Men, Dsquared2, Fay, Gianvito Rossi, Hogan, Kenzo, Moncler, Mr & Mrs Italy, OTS, Ralph Lauren, Tod’s, Tom Ford, Tory Burch, Valentino, Yves Salomon. Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, plactrzechkrzyzy.com

Miedzeszyński 646, hangar646.pl

Ptasia 6 A unique ladies concept store showcasing the works of both emerging and established independent Polish fashion labels such as Eva Grygo, Confashion, Kasia Miciak and Polanka. ul. Ptasia 6, ptasia6.pl

Stacja Grawitacja Set over 3,200 sq/m of space, this indoor trampoline extravaganza sends visitors bouncing down ‘ninja obstacle courses’, sky slamming basketball hoops and jumping around engaged in dodgeball shenanigans. ul. Bohaterów Września 12,

Reykjavik District Chic, well-cut menswear for all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal. ul. Burakowska 15, reykjavikdis-

stacjagrawitacja.pl

trict.com

FASHION

Risk. Made In Warsaw Mixing modern shapes with expert tailoring, the idea was to create a look that’s both comfortable yet chic. That they’ve been featured in the likes of Vogue and Elle suggests that this target has been accomplished. ul. Szpitalna 9,

DecoDialogue Working with both large manufacturers and smaller European design studios, DecoDialogue present a carefully sourced collection of furniture, textiles glassware and ceramics inside a beautifully outfitted space brimming with both statement pieces and more discreet little luxuries by the likes of Louis Poulsen, Lumio, Łyko, Klippan and Ton. ul. Kopernika 8/18, decodialogue.pl

Future Antiques These stylish, mid-century pieces have been refreshed using artisanal techniques to return items to their fullest aesthetic potential. Though much of the furniture is sourced from France, Italy and the Czech Republic, it’s the Danish bits and pieces that really stand out. ul. Poznańska 3/14, futureantiques.eu

Green Bells Equally inspired by Asia as the Victorian terrariums of botanist Dr. Nathaniel Bagshaw-Ward, Green Bells present miniature eco-worlds kept perfectly preserved inside ornamental glass: an ideal statement piece for house and home, your very own ‘forest in a jar’ will set you back from zł. 120 upwards. ul. Grzybowska 16/22, fb.com/greenbells

Lata 60-te Specializing in expertly refreshed furniture from the PRL era, it’s become a favorite of design mavens looking to trick out their home with a pre-loved retro statement piece. ul. 11 Listopada 54, lata60-te.pl

Ania Kuczyńska Ania Kuczyńska is becoming well known for her highly fashionable, minimalist clothing designs. The store also carries

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riskmadeinwarsaw.com

Plantarium Focusing on low maintenance air plants, owner Kamila Burchardt has accrued a number of big, leafy ferns, towering succulents, hard-to-find plants that are uncommon to Poland and accompanying accessories to lift up your

DO! Listings home. Impressive in scope and outlook, your apartment won’t ever feel the same.

inc. Mango, Lacoste, Guess, Hilfiger and Peek & Cloppenburg. Al. Jana Pawła II 82,

ul. Mokotowska 71, plantarium.pl

arkadia.com.pl

Porcelanowa Award-winning, contemporary Polish porcelain produced by cult, internationally recognized brands such as Aoomi, ENDE ceramics and Fenek. ul. Kredytowa 2,

Galeria Mokotów Stores inc. Calvin Klein, Hollister, Hugo Boss, New Balance, Royal Collection and Timberland. ul. Wołoska 12, galeriamokotow. com.pl

porcelanowa.com

Velt Beautiful family-run glassware store whose pieces include the Leda lamp, awarded an honorable mention in the prestigious 2012 Red Dot Awards. ul.

Próżna 12, velt.pl

malls & department stores Arkadia Not many Polish malls do it better. Stores

Galeria Północna Białołęka’s first major shopping center includes Poland’s first outpost of Hamley’s, as well as stores such as Forever 21 and Guess. Part of the ‘fourth generation of shopping centers’, add-ons include a rooftop garden and some of the best kid’s facilities on Poland’s retail map.

Plac Unii One of Warsaw’s latest mall counts Armani Jeans, Liu-Jo and Pandora amongst its upmarket tenants. ul. Puławska 2, placunii.pl

Mysia 3 Set in Poland’s former censorship office, the line-up includes Scandinavian fashion in Cos, shoes from My Paris, unconventional fashion from Nenukko and more. ul.

Mysia 3, mysia3.pl

ul. Światowida 17, galeriapolnocna.pl

Vitkac Poland’s first luxury department store gathers the world’s top designers under one roof, with brands including Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton and Stella McCartney, . Vitkac, ul. Bracka 9, likusconceptstore.pl

Klif House of Fashion Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has a line-up of top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko. ul.

Złote Tarasy Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Jatomi Health and Fitness Club. ul. Złota

Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl

59, zlotetarasy.pl

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DO! Listings accommodation 5-Star Hotels

Indigo

MaMaison Residence Diana

ul. Smolna 40, tel. 22 418 89 00, indigowarsaw.com

ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 9100, mamaison.com/diana

InterContinental

Sofitel Warsaw Victoria

ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, warsaw.intercontinental. com

ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8011, sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com

Between Us Bed & Breakfast Westin

Bellotto ul. Senatorska 13/15, tel. 22 829 6444, hotelbellotto.pl

Mamaison Le Régina Hotel Warsaw ul. Kościelna 12, tel. 22 531 6000, mamaison.com

B&B

Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, westin.pl

ul. Bracka 20, tel. 22 8285417 (from 10 a.m. to 11p.m.), between-us.eu

Boutique B&B

4-Star Hotels

ul. Smolna 14/6, tel. 22 829 4800, bedandbreakfast.pl

Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 6306, warsawmarriott.com

Airport Hotel Okęcie

Regent Warsaw Hotel

Hampton by Hilton

ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, reservations@regentwarsaw.com, regent-warsaw.com

ul. Wspólna 72, tel. 22 317 2700, hamptoninn3.hilton.com

relocation companies

Marriott Bristol Hotel ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1000, hotelbristolwarsaw.pl

H15 Boutique ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 553 8700, info@ h15ab.com, h15ab.com

ul. 17-ego Stycznia 24, tel. 22 456 8000, airporthotel.com.pl

AGS Warsaw Radisson Blu Sobieski

Sheraton ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6100, sheraton.pl

pl. Zawiszy 1, tel. 22 579 1000, sobieski.com.pl

CorstJens Worldwide Movers Mecure Warszawa Centrum

Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel Hilton Warsaw

ul. Julianowska 37, Piaseczno, agsmovers.com

ul. Złota 48/54, tel. 22 697 3999, mercure.com

ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555 / 800 44 11 482, hilton.com

ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888, radissonblu.com/hotelwarsaw

Hotel Warszawa

Raffles Europejski Warsaw

ul. Krucza 28, tel. 22 583 2100, mercure.com

Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9, tel.

22 470 03 00, warszawa.hotel. com.pl

ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, tel. 22 255 9590, raffles.com/ warsaw

Courtyard by Marriott Hotel (Airport)

Mercure Grand Warszawa

ul. Nowa 23, Stara Iwiczna, corstjens.com

Euro Move International Movers ul. Kineskopowa 1, euromove.pl

ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 0100, warszawacourtyard.pl

Novotel Warszawa Centrum

w W a r s a www.city-tour.com.pl

ul. Marszałkowska 94/98, tel.

22 596 0000, novotel.com, accorhotels.com

Yellow Double-Decker Bus

Invites you to experience a panoramic tour of tourist attractions of the capital of Poland, Warsaw, in a relaxing and comfortable way.

Polonia Palace Hotel

Traveling over the course of approximately 1,5 hour, a double-decker bus will take you past many beautiful and interesting places of Warsaw, such as its interesting districts, palaces and churches, monuments and museums, parks and historical cemeteries, as well as the Jewish historical sites.

Warsaw Plaza Hotel

A GPS 12 language audio-guide, will give explanations and accompany you to make your ride a more adventurous, exciting and an unforgettable one.

Excellent Hop on Hop off and one trip service operates every day all year round.

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Warsaw Insider | APRIL 2019

+48 500 033 414

ul. Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 8160, moveonerelo.com

Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. 22 318 2800, poloniapalace.com

ul. Łączyny 5, tel. 885 886 100, warsawplazahotel.pl

apartments InterContinental

Line approved by municipal authorities.

www.city-tour.com.pl

Move One Relocations Also immigration assistance, fine art shipping, pet transport and consulting services. Check their website for more details.

ul. Emili Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, warsaw.intercontinental.com

Relo Planet International, domestic and office removals, corporate and individual relocations, fine art shipping, storage, insurance, as well as a full range of assistance services (immigration, etc.). ul. Batalinou Platerówek 3, reloplanet.com

DO! Guide aspects of this nation’s complex and often fraught Jewish history. More old school in style, the Jewish Historical Institute often hosts thought-provoking exhibitions linked to the wartime suffering of the Jews.

POLIN MUSEUM

COMMUNISM

THE ESSENTIALS...

Cut through the chaff and time manage your visit as effectively as possible.

THE OLD…

The Old Town, raised from the rubble after WWII, is symbolic of this ‘phoenix city’, and fully deserving of its UNESCOlisted status. The Royal Castle is a maze of fancy chambers and important paintings by the likes of Rembrandt and Canaletto, while the Museum of Warsaw offers a peerless peek into the complexities of Warsaw’s story: the view of the Old Town Square from the top is worth the admission alone. Close by, check out the city that once was at Park Miniatur, a beautiful exhibition displaying intricate scale models of the city’s pre-war architectural glories. To soak in the extravagances of Poland’s imperial years, take a walk around the immaculate Łazienki Park or, further out, visit Wilanów Palace: frequently nicknamed ‘the Polish Versailles’, the landscaped gardens are as unmissable as the former royal chambers. Finally, tap into the very essence of the Polish soul by visiting the new Vodka Museum on the right side of town.

WWII

Memories of WWII still hang heavily in the air. Learn about the 1944 Warsaw Uprising at The Rising Museum: it’s deservedly rated as among the most important cultural institutions in the country. Lesser known, the Old Town’s ‘Heritage Centre’ documents the destruction (and subsequent reconstruction) of the city, while three separate museums, Pawiak, Szucha and Katyń, cover equally somber chapters in Poland’s dark history. To get up close and personal to military hardware, visit the Polish Army Museum.

JEWISH WARSAW

Though largely flattened, the former Jewish Ghetto contains numerous memorials, among them the Umschlagplatz monument marking the spot where trains departed for the gas chambers of Treblinka. The one synagogue that survived (Twarda 6) is the center of local Jewish life, while the innovative Polin museum covers all

A full tour of Stalin’s Palace of Culture is a must: the basements (protected from rodents by a team of feline guardians) are wild whilst the top-floor viewing terrace unimpeachable. Check the more ambient side to Communism in the Neon Museum and then head across town to check the new location of the Czar PRL Museum (czarprl.pl).

A warm and eccentric look at daily life under Communism, this fantastic museum could yet become one of Warsaw’s quirkiest attractions. Equally weird, check out a former nuclear bunker by visiting the once top secret Obiekt Alfa (obiektalfa.pl). Lastly, take a look at what’s on at Dom Spotkań z Historią, a small exhibition space that specializes in interesting photo exhibits that explore Warsaw’s past – though subject matter varies to cover differing chapters of the city’s history, the PRL era receives the lion’s share of attention.

MODERN WARSAW

Wonder amid rioting children and whirring machines in the Copernicus Science Centre and after, visit the university library to explore the stunning, cosmic rooftop garden. The Museum of Modern Art is a short walk away whilst across the water, the state-of-the-art National Stadium conducts regular tours and thrills both stadium nerds and football fans alike.

ART

Serious art lovers flock to the National Museum for its determined presentation of art through the ages – don’t miss the brilliantly retro Gallery of Polish Design. The Zachęta, the Modern Art Museum and CSW are more alternative with captivating exhibitions that excite non-conformists.

And keep your eyes open, for some of the city’s best art is found on its walls: the Praga district is especially celebrated for their large format wall murals. warsawinsider.pl

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THE POWER OF THE FLOWER

April 19th will see Warsaw pause to commemorate the outbreak of the 1943 Jewish Ghetto Uprising with the day’s events supplemented, as has become customary, by Akcja Żonkile. As part of an action initiated by the Polin museum, since 2013 over 450,000 paper daffodils have been handed out to the public to wear on their lapels as a sign of remembrance – this year, 1,000 plus volunteers will patrol the streets of Muranów, the heart of the former Ghetto, to give out at least 120,000 to mark the occasion.

Symbolic of respect, memory and hope, the daffodil has been associated with the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising ever since veteran combatant Marek Edelman began leaving them at various sites linked to the revolt. A revered cardiologist, patriot and social activist, Edelman assumed command of the Jewish rebels during the Ghetto Uprising after their original leader, Mordechai Anielewicz, committed suicide when faced with capture by the Nazis. Edelman escaped the Ghetto via the sewers and later fought in the ’44 Uprising the following year where he again distinguished himself in battle.

Though he passed away in 2009, his legacy survives to this day. With this year marking what would have been his 100th birthday, City Hall have named Edelman as Warsaw’s official patron of 2019.

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WIKICOMMONS

As the anniversary of the Ghetto Uprising approaches, the city prepares to remember the tragedy and heroism of this landmark rebellion.