Warsaw Insider February 2019 #270

Warsaw The Capital’s Original City Magazine Since 1996

FEBRUARY 2019

270 02/2019

INDEKS 334901 ISSN:1643-1723

#

zł.10

(VAT 8% included)

Valentine’s Warsaw Donut Delirium!

Poland’s Coffee Revolution

AQUAZZURA ALEXANDRE BIRMAN BALMAIN BURBERRY BUSCEMI CASADEI CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN CULT GAIA FRANCESCO RUSSO GIANVITO ROSSI HERVE LEGER ISABEL MARANT KENZO MAISON MICHEL MARC JACOBS MANOLO BLAHNIK MR & MRS ITALY ONETEASPOON SELF – PORTRAIT TOD’S TORY BURCH VICTORIA BECKHAM ZIMMERMANN

Moliera 2

tel.: 228277099, www.Moliera2.com

editorial INFRONT

Editor-in-chief Alex Webber

6 News

insider@warsawinsider.pl Art Director Kevin Demaria insider@warsawinsider.pl

FEATURES

Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com

0 Coffee: 2 Coffee Spots Polska 2 Donuts: 2 Sit down with MOD 5 Feature: 2 Valentine's Proposals 6 Feature: 2 Valentine's Old Town

EAT!

3 7 Review:

Smak Curry 38 Review: Wuwu 40 Review: Postępu 5

DRINK!

67 Review:

Targowy 68 Review:

El Koktel

DO!

83 Review:

Plantarium 84 Stegny 86 Events 88 Museums 101 Essentials 102 Map 104 Last Impression

Contributors: Stuart Dowell Maria Mileńko Michał Miszkurka Ed Wight Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com ey Account Manager K Agata Sicińska asicinska@valkea.com

J

anuary just couldn’t have got any worse. The high profile murder of Gdańsk Mayor Paweł Adamowicz as he attended a closing ceremony for a charity fundraiser left the nation stunned. The human aspect aside, what unfolded acted as a bitter reminder of the poisonous political splits currently enveloping the nation. But there is hope. In a rare show of unity, politicians on all sides came together to condemn the attack, whilst the public pulled together to smash previous collection records set by the WÓSP charity. From the darkness, this show of cross-platform solidarity offered a rare chink of light in a bitterly divided country. Let Adamowicz’s death not be in vain.

Given the prevailing mood, it’s difficult to begin this intro in anything approaching the normal upbeat style. So I won’t. Instead, I’ll just give you the brief with no fuss attached. Inside, we’ve got some blah blah about Valentine’s, an insight into Poland’s coffee revolution, a primer on D-Day (that’s Donut Day, not the WWII Normandy landings), and the expected bundle of unexpected city news and happenings squeezed amid red hot restaurants and trending bars.

Here’s to a better Feb – have a good ’un.

Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

on the cover Because where better to spend Valentine’s Day than in Warsaw’s Old Town? See p. 26. (Illustration by Michał Miszkurka)

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ey Account Manager K Joanna Chmielewska jchmielewska@valkea.com ey Account Manager K Karolina Zielonka kzielonka@valkea.com Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com Subscription 12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland.

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VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies. All information ©2019 Warsaw Insider.

PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT

FEBRUARY 2019

BURBERRY CANADA GOOSE CASADEI CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN MEN FAY GIANVITO ROSSI KENZO MONCLER MR & MRS ITALY ONETEASPOON RALPH LAUREN TOD’S TORY BURCH VALENTINO BURBERRY CHILDREN DSQUARED2 KIDS KENZO KIDS MONCLER KIDS

Pl. Trzech Krzyzy 3/4 tel.: +48 226221416, www.PlacTrzechKrzyzy.com

LIBERATOR, THE FIRST HARLEYDAVIDSON DEALERSHIP IN POLAND

It may not seem like this, but Poland has actually had a very long history related to the Harley-Davidson brand.

Thanks to enthusiasts such as Jan Kwilman, who has brought to us this symbol of freedom, we have today a very wide access to all types of motorcycles all around the country.

Since the foundation of the firm in 1990 by Jan Kwilman, and thanks to focusing on the development of the Harley-Davidson bikers community, Liberator has become a name of international renown.

SOFTAIL – WHAT’S NEW FOR OUR CLIENTS? No other brand in the world has produced so many famous custom motorcycles as Harley-Davidson.

The new models for 2018 are presented with a totally new Softail frame, able to subjugate the pulsing power of the new Milwaukee-Eight® 107 and 114 engines (1745 cm3 i 1868 cm3), designed exclusively for the Softail models. It is more rigid and way lighter than it’s predecessor, strongly affecting the quality of the ride.

Find out about it by yourself !

Riding a 2018 Harley-Davidson Softail motorcycle brings totally new sensations. Benefit from a free test ride and you will be convinced that you are in front of the more powerful, agile and best reacting cruiser motorcycle. Feel those thrills through your own ride experience and regain your freedom.

You can book your ride through our website : https://testrides.harley-davidson.com/pl_ PL/?d=6239 or by calling Adrian, one of our sales representatives, at 515 069 041 Don’t wait for some day to come – A new Harley is available already at PLN 31,900* * Price for the model Harley-Davidson Street Rod® For more information we invite you to visit us at the store: Liberator Sp.z.o.o., ul. Górczewska 30, Warsaw, and on our website: www.liberator.pl

in the

NEWS

Even in a city well accustomed to strange, striking and stimulating wall art, artist Bruno Althamer’s depiction of Kora has won blanket praise from all quarters. Painted as part of a nationwide action to commemorate the great women of Poland, the work has been positioned in such a way that Kora’s image will ‘grow hair’ once the surrounding trees and plants begin blooming in spring. Kora – a best-selling rock artist and media personality – lost her battle against ovarian cancer in 2018 but inspired a new generation of followers with her dignified battle against illness. Officially unveiled on January 17th, her husband spoke at the ceremony of the values she embodied, reminding the assembled crowd of the importance she attached to love, openness and tolerance – a hot topic given the recent murder of Gdańsk mayor, Paweł Adamowicz. Those wishing to view the mural will find it set behind the Branicki Palace on Nowy Świat 18/20.

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KEVIN DEMARIA

WALL TO WALL

News ARCHITECTURE

Not Lovin’ It

Urban conservationists and architecture buffs have reacted with horror following the news that one of Warsaw’s classic examples of post-modernist architecture is set to be revived by McDonald’s. Opened in 1966 as part of the ‘Eastern Wall’ development, the Cepelia pavilion housed the flagship store of the Cepelia folk art retailers, a brand that was intended by the authorities to “solidify the rural identity of this socialist nation”. Glowing from afar as it were an ‘urban lantern’, the building was widely lauded as the futuristic face of the capital. Ravaged since the 90s by cheap embellishments and gaudy hoardings, it has since been allowed to slip into decline. Keen to allay concerns, the fast food franchise have promised to preserve the ‘architectural values’ of the building whilst also opting for a more discreet approach to their exterior branding.

CRIME

Poland’s toxic political climate received international exposure following the murder of Gdańsk Mayor Paweł Adamowicz. Adamowicz, whose 20-year tenure as Mayor coincided with the city’s dynamic development, was a hugely popular figure and well-known for his liberal views. Donald Tusk, the acting President of the EU Council, and himself a native of Gdańsk, paid tribute to Adamowicz calling him “a man of solidarity and freedom.”

Adamowicz was stabbed to death on stage during the finale of Poland’s best-loved charity fundraiser, with his murderer allowed to roam the stage for several minutes after whilst decrying the PO party which he blamed for his actions.

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PHOTOGRAPH TOP PRESS MATERIAL, BOTTOM SHUTTERSSTOCK

Murder Of Mayor Stuns Poland

a unique shopping experience 3.1 Philip Lim — Rodarte — Paul Andrew — Justine Clenquet Nina Kastens — ­ Jonathan Simkhai — D’ESTREE — ­ RIXO London

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News

SIGHTSEEING

Back With A Bang!

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

One of Warsaw’s truly cult museums has reopened after relocating to the center of the city. Celebrating the quirky side of daily life under the communist regime, the Życia w PRL museum now features three times as much space, a string of new exhibits, a view point and a café inspired by the commie era. Full review next issue! (czarprl.pl)

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NEW FITNESS CLUB

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EXUMAGYM

News TR ANSPORT

CENTRALNY IN NUMBERS

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What’s In A Name?

Million PLN spent on its renovation

19.5

W

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Million PLN spent on the ‘cosmic’ mezzanine

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Million travelers per year

ARCHITECTURE

In The Running Once known for its heavy industry and unappealing looks, Katowice’s public rehabilitation took another momentous step forward after it was announced that The Department of Radio and Television of the University of Silesia in Katowice had been shortlisted for the Mies van der Rohe award for Contemporary Architecture. Unveiled in 2017, Poland’s Deputy Prime Minister has already expressed hopes that the building would not only become one of the aesthetic attractions of Silesia, but also Poland as a whole.

PHOTOGRAPH TOP KEVIN DEMARIA, BOTTOM PRESS MATERIAL (JAKUB CERTOWICZ)

arsaw’s central train station was renamed in January as part of the first wave of celebrations to commemorate the 200th birthday of Stanisław Moniuszko, a prolific composer often regarded as ‘the father of Polish opera’. Now known as Dworzec Centralny im. Stanisława Moniuszki, it’s the latest twist in the complex saga of Poland’s busiest station.

Opened on December 5th, 1975, it was built to coincide with the 7th Workers’ Party Congress. A special entrance was constructed for Brezhnev (the guest of honor at the congress), and for years after out-of-towners were bussed in to gawp at this feat of PolishCommunist engineering. “The Prime Minister told me not to worry about funds,” recalled architect Arseniusz Romanowicz, “so I was able to get the best things: automatic doors from Switzerland, suspended ceilings from Holland, clocks from Italy and escalators from France…”

The design even went so far as to include the country’s first vending machine.

But it wasn’t all plain sailing.

Constructed at breakneck speed in under a 1,000 days, the lack of professional workmanship left Centralny dogged by faults and flaws that only really ceased after an exhaustive renovation was launched in the run up to Euro 2012. In fact, as recently as 2000 the station became one of the few known victims of the Millennium Bug after the timetable went into meltdown, whilst a few years later the noxious stench that once filled the passages was explained after an illegal warehouse storing rotting kebab meat was discovered in one of the secret chambers on the lower levels.

GURU REDEFINES

MODERN INDIAN CUISINE

Our focus from the start has been to create modern Indian dishes and drinks, served in a relaxed space. We combine local seasonal ingredients with the authentic flavors, aromas and spices of India and the orient.

Widok 8, Warszawa www.gururestauracja.pl facebook.com/gururestauracja TEL. 22 857 0604

News HEALTH

A Weighty Topic A poster competition aimed at raising awareness of obesity has come under fire after going viral on social media platforms. Organized by Galeria Plakatu AMS, the winning posters, which have appeared widely in cities across Poland, have been heavily criticized for so-called ‘fat shaming’.

“The winning posters were selected by an independent jury,” said a spokesman for AMS, “and are independent, artistic statements.” Though slammed by some – including bulimics, anorexics and health professionals – others have defended the campaign for succeeding in spotlighting this growing Polish problem.

CIT Y It’s been revealed that a set of professional poker chips, a pram (empty), and an electronic keyboard were among the items handed in to Warsaw’s lost property office in 2018. Receiving approximately 7,000 objects each year, the Biura Rzeczy Znalezionych also divulged that a prosthetic leg remains in their care after being deposited with them the year before last. Keeping items for two years, those that go unclaimed are then either destroyed or auctioned.

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TR ANSPORT

In The Limelight Having initially won favor for being cheap, fun and convenient, the Lime scooter revolution is facing a bitter backlash following a slew of complaints. Reaching speeds of 25 km/hr, the electric scooters – which riders can unlock after downloading an app – have been blamed for causing untold chaos on the streets and pavements. Topping the public’s mounting irritation has been the number of scooters left blocking pavements, strewn across parks or leaning against national memorials. A petition to introduce designated drop-off points has now been submitted to authorities.

PHOTOGRAPHS TOP KEVIN DEMARIA, BOTTOM SHUTTERSTOCK

Lost & Found

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News ESCAPE

One For The Books The country cabin that’s got Warsaw hyped!

BARTEK’S TOP READS

Siddhartha by Herman Hesse

Readers of this book follow the main character’s spiritual journey of self-discovery learning about the traps and challenges of one’s own self. This book had a great impact on the person I see in the mirror each day.

Sapiens – A Brief History of Humankind by Yuval Noah Harari

This book pictures where we, modern humans, come from and it does so in the most brilliant and inspiring fashion. It should be a mandatory read in every school!

Auto da Fé by Elias Canetti

A somewhat dark but incredibly witty novel about the totalitarian traps of the human mind. The plot ends with the premeditated burning down of the character’s beloved library. It might be better if I kept that book locked away!

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great way to focus on just one thing at a time, relax your mind whilst simultaneously taking yourself on incredible journeys. Meanwhile, the location of this cabin – in the woods, but only 50 kilometers from Warsaw – allows guests to take a digital detox whenever it suits. They can check-in after work on a Tuesday afternoon but be back in the office first thing the next morning.”

Benefiting from a wave of media attention, a crowd-funding stage has already been successfully completed and the relevant permits and paperwork signed and delivered. Now all that remains is the construction itself, a process set to begin in spring and end at some stage over the course of Q2. > > >

Ernest Hemingway

He’d probably trash the place completely, but we could at least make a great movie about that after!

Szczepan Twardoch

The self-proclaimed macho of intellectuals fits the idea of the cabin perfectly. I hope he would agree to sign the axe as well...

Simone de Beauvoir

One of the most important thinkers of the past century back from when the world was a completely different place. I hope she’d have loved the cabin!

PHOTOGRAPHS PRESS MATERIAL

W

ine, fireplace, books: check, check and checkity check!

Heaven? No, Adelin, a tiny village North East of Warsaw. It’s here, a 45-minute drive from the capital, that visitors will soon be able to enjoy the chilled-out pleasures of the Bookworm Cabin, a snug, rural retreat that’s being built with avid readers in mind.

“In this over-stimulated world I wanted to create a space that allows for people to sit back and escape distraction,” says Bartek Kraciuk, author of the concept. “Reading is a

BARTEK’S DREAM GUESTS!

>>>

News “If everything goes accordingly,” says Bartek, “we’ll be welcoming our first guests on June 1st.”

Featuring a footprint of 25 sq/m on ground-level, and an intimate mezzanine of 12.5 sq/m, the cabin (whose shell has been designed by POLE Architekci, and its interior by Bartek’s wife, Marta Puchalska-Kraciuk) will be festooned with books and include a wooden outdoor deck and five-meter tall window – all the ingredients for a memorable off-grid escape. “With the constant beeping of notifications and messages we’ve become wired to networks and have had our privacy compromised,” continues Bartek.

“Even if such disturbances are of one’s own will, I think we all secretly long for some kind of downtime and detachment. Cabins create a physical space small enough for us to feel in complete control – some would call them cozy.”

The bookworm cabin fits two people with vouchers (zł. 320 per night) availale from fb.com/bookwormcabin.

Reservations will also be shortly available on slowhop.com

BOOKS

Hard facts backed up by stone cold data – don’t you just love them? And even more when they’re supported by super-cool graphics and funky illustrations. Well, that’s what the Museum of Warsaw have done with the release of Dane Warszawskie, a hardback folder stuffed with pullout pamphlets that reveal the story of the city via factoids and figures. Packed with trivia concerning demographics, city limits, spatial changes, tallest buildings and city ‘firsts’, it’s perhaps the latter that prove the most engaging.

A must for quiz buffs and Warsawophiles, it’s here you’ll arm up on knowledge about the city’s first car (1896: two Benz vehicles purchased by industrialist Stanisław Grodzki), Warsaw’s original football derby (1921: Polonia stuffed Legia 8-0), the first regular striptease performances (1957: held in the Stodoła Student Club), the even the first kebab shop (1994: Saska K’s legendary Efes). An outstanding work, pick up your own copy from the museum’s gift shop on Rynek Starego Miasto.

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PHOTOGRAPHS PRESS MATERIAL

As A Matter Of Fact

PERA RESTAURANT CORDIALLY INVITES YOU TO A CULINARY FEAST OF FLAVORS. Having cooked for the likes of Martin Scorsese, Leonardo Di Caprio, Cameron Diaz and Matt Damon, chef Nestor Grojewski is recognized as a true master of Italian cooking. Combining modernity with perfection whilst also preserving the traditional character of Italian cuisine, no other chef does it quite like Nestor!

Al. Krakowsa 248, tel. 575 468 685 instagram.com/perarestauracja facebook.com/perarestauracja

PHOTOGRAPHS PRESS MATERIAL

COFFEE SPOTS

SOMETHING BREWING Beyond Warsaw’s city limits, Poland’s specialty coffee scene has stirred into life…

I

nterpreted as a sign of the times, Agnieszka Rojewska’s victory at the 2018 World Barista Championship served to confirm what many knew already: in terms of specialty coffee, Poland was on the map. But, as the saying goes, one swallow does not a summer make. A more accurate barometer of Poland’s coffee ‘progress’ has been the rapid development of the overall scene – not just in Warsaw, where over 50 specialty coffee cafes have popped up like toast, but the nation as a whole.

Just how far alternative coffee culture has penetrated the country is evidenced in Coffee Spots Polska, an extraordinary guidebook co-authored

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by Krzysiek Rzyman, a business journalist and the owner of Stor café, and Agnieszka Bukowska, the expansion manager of Coffeedesk. Having been introduced at the 2017 launch of Krzysiek’s café guide to Warsaw, they decided to join forces and embark on a larger project, one that was to see them visit and record every specialty coffee café in Poland – about 180 in all. “We knew there was a big scene in the cities, but we didn’t expect so much outside,” remembers Aga, “we certainly never thought we’d be traveling and working quite so much.”

Joined by Stor’s Vitali Gudkov, who was on hand to record all that occurred, the trio’s odyssey took them

thousands of kilometers using practically all modes of transport ever invented (“even bike,” remembers Aga).

Immediately, the depth of specialty coffees infiltration caused pause for thought. “One of the biggest surprises for me was the discovery of Migawka in Raciborz,” says Aga, “a café that was added to supplement the owner’s photo lab business – imagine, a café as good as anything in Brooklyn in the depths of Silesia!” Bombshells dropped thick and fast, with Krzysiek recalling other far-flung gems in Zawiercie, Gołdap as well as a café in Biesczady that involved a seven-hour roundtrip.

Raised in Katowice, it was his return to home territory that really inspired Krzysiek. “The city’s changed so much over the last few years,” he says, “and the coffee scene seemed to reflect that – I felt so proud of being from there.” But more than acting as a mirror of Poland’s own growing maturity, specialty coffee has, at times,

directly impacted and influenced that development. “For example,” says Aga, “we found areas of Gdańsk that have been transformed by cafes. Where there was nothing before, we saw how specialty cafes can change entire neighborhoods by creating a buzz and making them more vivid.”

Along the way lessons, too, were learned. Both note that competition between cafes and a lack of mutual collaboration has slowed or stunted development in some areas of Poland; as a whole, the importance of a wider offer was also recognized. “People have a romantic notion of what running a café involves,” says Aga, “but we saw firsthand how hard it is – margins on specialty coffee are tight, and it’s vital you compensate those by selling things like cakes or breakfast.

The culture isn’t so developed in Poland whereby you can have a café that sells coffee alone.”

Further, both are in firm agreement that the actually coffee isn’t the be all

and end all. “That surprises people when we say that,” says Aga, “but we’re speaking as managers rather than baristas – for us, we saw that the successful cafes were the ones that placed people and atmosphere first. And then the coffee! People want more than just good coffee alone, and a café really needs to help them ‘experience’ something special.”

Despite the caution in these words, it’s optimism and positivity that are the underlying theme when listening to the duo. “We can be really proud of Poland’s specialty coffee scene,” concludes Krzysiek. “The Germans are better at marketing themselves, but our scene is certainly comparable.

And what’s really impressive is that ours isn’t just limited to the big cities, but also thriving in the smaller ones as well.” Let this book be the proof.

For more info and to order a copy, see: coffeespots.pl warsawinsider.pl

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PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

DONUTS MOD

HOLE IN ONE As belts loosen ahead of Tłusty Czwartek, the Insider speaks to Kamila and Patrycja of MOD about their personal donut journey…

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A

compulsory inclusion on any shortlist counting down Warsaw’s top restaurants, MOD has proved a phenomenon since opening three-and-a-bit years back. But it all started with donuts…

“I was daydreaming during university lectures one time,” remembers co-owner Kamila, “and all I could think about was the donuts we used to eat when we lived in New York City.” By we, she means herself and Patrycja. Best friends since meeting at middle school in Chrzanów, the two have been inseparable since. “I texted her while I was sat in this class,” continues Kamila, “saying that NYC donuts were just what Warsaw needed.” Like that, an idea was born.

Starting a business together had always been on the cards, but with the pair relatively new to Warsaw the avenue of choice remained firmly closed.

“Without any contacts in the capital,” says Kamila, “we knew straight away we wouldn’t be able to open anything like a marketing agency.” Instead, the two bided their time, all whilst recreating the donuts they’d eaten stateside with the help of recipes gleaned from a chef friend, Trisno Hamid. “We started posting the results up on Instagram,” says Patrycja, “and the reaction we got from our friends was amazing.”

Soon, orders began stacking up and the impulse to open a donut shop grew a little stronger.

“By this time Trisno was looking to start a restaurant,” says Kamila, “so we began a joint search for a venue with the idea being to then divide it in half.”

With no such opportunities forthcoming, they did the next best thing by taking the lease on one single unit. “We’d always wanted something on Oleandrów street,” says Patrycja, “but the place we found was too big for just a donut store so we asked Tris if he could create a night menu for the evening crowd – from there, things just clicked.”

And click they did. Trisno, a classically-trained chef from Singapore, found his cooking hailed in the press, his unlikely combination of French and Asian influences seducing Warsaw with its innovative tastes. The donut front, however, didn’t hit the ground running. “All the time,” says Kamila, “we’d hear that our donuts were too expensive at zł. 6, so it took a while for people to understand that there was a reason for that.”

“Actually, aside from the ones Kamila’s grandmother used to make, I didn’t even like donuts when I was growing up,” laughs Patrycja, “and when we went to America I immediately figured that their version would be somehow fake and artificial. Instead though, we saw there was an artisan quality behind them. Producers were going back to the roots.

The places we visited weren’t using machines; their donuts were handmade using real butter, fresh yeast and proper eggs, not powder – and just as importantly, they were making them each day and selling them fresh. That’s the standard we wanted to follow.”

Over time – around a year Kamila guesstimates – the doubters were won round. “Not once did we even think of changing our philosophy,” she says, “because we knew what we were doing was good and

>>> warsawinsider.pl

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DONUTS MOD

DONUT BOX

TŁUSTY CZWARTEK: WHAT AM I?

Simples. Held during the Christian ‘carnival’ season, Tłusty Czwartek is a day dedicated to feasting on goodies otherwise shunned

by God-fearing worshippers over the course of the upcoming period of Lent.

Occurring on the last Thursday preceding this solemn time (in this year’s case, February 28th), Poles have taken to celebrating the day by pathologically eating as many donuts as they physically can. Despite the day’s religious roots, it’s not just practicing believers that join the frenzy: expect immense queues – some stretching round the block – outside most stores selling pączki.

THE FAB FOUR Cukiernia Pawłowicz (Chmielna 13) Revered by traditionalists, the queue on Tłusty Czwartek snakes as far as the eye can see.

Be patient to see why.

wanted to stay true to it. Too many times people get scared by the public’s feedback and play it safe by changing their concept. We didn’t want that, though of course we were lucky that with the restaurant the success of our business wasn’t just based on donuts.”

Today, MOD has become every inch as synonymous with donuts as it has with top dining. Selling approximately 150 daily, they’re things of craft and adventure and irresistible taste. All the better for ignoring chemical nasties and mass-market shortcuts, the playful nature of MOD’s offerings is expressed via all-natural, boldly-colored toppings such as matcha, mango or hibiscus. But it’s privately that things get particularly interesting. Open to special requests (minimum order: one!), the donut duo have stretched their talents to make a range of personalized donuts. “One couple,” says Patrycja, “like to celebrate their anniversary by challenging us to make them special donuts. So far, they’ve requested – and received – a bumble bee, a hedgehog and a unicorn. We can’t wait to see what they want next!”

Tłusty Czwartek, however, is when things get back-to-basics. Having beaten their previous record by knocking out 3,500 last year, another spike in sales is anticipated with the scale of public demand leaving no margin for error. “When you’ve got so many people to serve, you need to keep it as simple as possible,” says Kamila, “it’s all about being consistent.” Employing 20 people to work three shifts over the course of 24hrs, it’s during Tłusty Czwartek that those called to action truly make their bones. But more than just a day of hard work and big rewards, Tłusty Czwartek is a day that poses the big question: have Poles finally learned to love the non-traditional donut with a hole. The answer, at least in the niche occupied by MOD, is resounding and emphatic.

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El Krepel (Śniadeckich 12/16) A modernized take on Polish donuts with choices including dulce de leche with cinnamon sugar or rich, creamy donuts topped with marshmallows MOD (Oleandrów 8) American-style donuts as mastered by Kamila and Patrycja. The Insider’s firm favorite!

Zagoździński (Górczewska 15) Suppliers to none other than Marshal Józef Piłsudski! Over 90-years of history marks this family enterprise out as the undisputed king of the traditional Polish pączek.

Will You Marry Me?

The ring is ready and so are you. But where should you head before going on bended knee?

ART EQUALS HEART

Get to a gallery for an intellectually charged date that ends with a proposal. The Zachęta is the daddy of all things contemporary Polish, and the proximity of picturesque Saski Park makes for a stimulating afternoon of art, conversation and quacking ducks. CSW, meanwhile, inside the Baroque Ujazdów Castle, has the added bonus of being close to ul. Agrykola, a dipping, foggy street lined with pre-war gas lamps. Lastly, remember the river: stroll by the icy, empty Wisła before seeking warmth inside the Museum of Modern Art.

FOR INSTAGRAMMERS!

If you’re the kind of egomaniac that can’t get out of bed without first announcing it to your twelve thousand friends then you’re not going to want to propose anywhere but Pl. Europejski. Head to the Kocham Warszawę sign before doing what about a million people have done before and sticking your head through the heart for the ubiquitous selfie. With any luck, you’ll get stuck.

FOOD OF LOVE

Fireworks occur with each visit to Warsaw’s Michelin representatives – Senses and Atelier Amaro – but you’re unlikely to get a table anytime mid-Feb. Instead, enjoy the intimacy of Bubbles, the neo bistro style of Rozbrat 20, or the endless charm of Ale Wino. In all the aforementioned, you won’t be the first to pull out a ring at the end and pop the big question.

STAIRWAY TO HEAVEN

For something that’s a cross between a Nick Cave video and a David Lynch film, beat the buzzer to gain access to the entrancing tenement on Kłopotowskiego 38. Inside, you’ll find a dream-like, spiraling staircase that stretches on forever... and ever... and ever. Dubbed ‘the emerald staircase’, it’s a must for the more Bohemian couple.

CROSS THAT BRIDGE

Forget Łazienki, it’s Park Ujazdowski that Romeos should seek. Filled with decorative street lamps and secretive alcoves, its highlight is a quaint humpback bridge designed in the 19th century by the English engineering dude William Lindley – impress your love by telling her / him that this was the first reinforced concrete structure in the Kingdom of Poland! More contemporary, head to Wilnaów’s Mostek Zakochanych to cross a 12-meter dinky bridge that’s been embellished with three illuminated hearts, or fasten a lovelock on the city’s first suspension bridge, Świętokrzyski.

Completed in 2000, it’s played a star role in several romcoms and soaps, a point that has seen it nicknamed as the city’s most romantic bridge…

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VALENTINE'S OLD TOWN

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ven those who hate the Old Town for its artifice – and let’s be honest, we all know some prat that claims to have avoided it for years – aren’t so churlish as to deny that the post-war rebuild wasn’t bad at all. Painstakingly reassembled from a heap of blackened ruins, it’s one of the great glories of Poland. With its crooked, cobbled alleys, slender spires and snow-sprinkled rooftops, it’s also filled with enough romantic promise for a Valentine’s meander to remember…

Start at Zygmunt’s Column, the traditional rendez-vous spot for canoodling couples, before heading down Kanonia to the Humpty Dumpty bell that sits center stage. Here, dreams come true if you touch the top, circle three times then make a wish.

Next up, Dawna street, a charming little twitten perfectly bookended by

Loving It Up In Old Town

There’s no better time than Valentine’s to soak in the timeless magic of the city’s Old Town district…

two buildings that arch over the alley below: it’s a scene born for atmospheric photos. Then, through the cute navy archway you go, an action that’ll lead you to a small alcove overlooking the river. It matters not this once served as the town’s sewage heap; admire the view and then attach a lovelock to the fence – you won’t be the first. Continue to the mist-cloaked remnants of the town walls or follow in Napoleon’s foot-

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ALL PHOTOGRAPHS SHUTTERSSTOCK

steps and cut to the Rynek by climbing the stone stairwell at Kamienne Schodki.

In the square, share mulled wine from one of the outdoor cabins before wobbling onto the ice rink to skate around a mermaid, or get cultured in the Museum of Warsaw: there’s a reason you’re here – bird’s eye views of the Rynek await, and they’re all the better once the skies fall purple as the clocks move to dusk.

Anything else? Yes! For fireside cocktails in a wood-paneled parlor head to the old coach house that is Bar & Books, or make your way back to the Cathedral plotting your wedding to remember.

Doing so, you’ll be passing a statue of a bear: that’s a Mazovian prince waiting to come to life once he finds love once again (he’s only been waiting a couple hundred years…).

Now, you’re back to square one. Cold?

If so, head indoors to take Poland’s first escalator before being dispatched at the mouth of the W-Z tunnel and the pastel pink district of Mariensztat. Just by being there, you’re following in the footsteps of the characters in Przygoda na Mariensztacie, a cult 50s rom-com that’s something of a classic.

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Feeling Hungary?

Located in the basement of a historic tenement house, Borpince is the sole place in Warsaw in which you’ll find 100 carefully selected wines from all the regions of Hungary, not to mention modernized versions of traditional Magyar dishes. The tastes of Tokaj, Debrecen and Budapest are just a footstep away in the center of Warsaw!

Borpince ul. Zgoda 1, borpince.pl

NEWSFLASH! Calling fine diners! Take note, as of January Poland’s original Michelin-starred restaurant, Atelier Amaro, has relocated to new premises on Pl. Trzech Krzyży 10/14. Lunches have been set between zł. 149 and 219, and dinner between zł. 310 and 420. Make your booking at: atelieramaro.pl

Pizza Perfection!

In Żoliborz, happiness is… a place called Trattoria Bella Vista!

Founded by Tomek, his idea was simple: to serve mouth-watering pizza, pasta, soups and salads the way they should be made – with locally sourced, garden fresh produce, cheeses imported from Italy, and the highest quality lean meat products available. Welcoming and unpretentious, we guarantee you’ll find lip-smacking food, kid-friendly dishes, expert pizzaiolos and a range of choices fit for Caesar himself!

Trattoria Bella Vista ul. Kaliny Jędrusik 5

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BUILT ON TRADITION

Taste the countryside in a rustic retreat in the heart of Old Town…

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ith the tourists still months away from returning in numbers, Warsaw’s Old Town is back to its chilly, wintry best. Exploring the quiet, cobbled streets, it’s an area that gently unwraps to reveal her secrets and surprises to all who bundle up warm to resist the cold February snap. On these dark, long nights, nowhere in town feels quite so magical and enchanting.

It’s to this bewitching backdrop you’ll find Gospoda Kwiaty Polskie, glowing like a beacon amid the early evening mist.

Drawing visitors with its warm allure, guests enter to discover a cottage-like scene that could have been snatched from the pages of a fairy tale: filled with flowers, wooden clutter and antique keepsakes salvaged from the attic, it’s a restaurant that’s welcoming and familiar and just right for winter. Drawing

breath, you are transported to the heart of rustic Poland.

Befitting of the atmosphere, the menu is a work that celebrates the traditions of this nation’s rural heritage: boar shashliks, grilled deer chops and pork-stuffed cabbage rolls are among the choices that feel impossible to resist. Ideal for the weather, order half a meter of Polish sausage, or a hefty pork knuckle baked in honey-flavored beer. Monstrous in size and honest in their flavor these are hearty dishes to repel the shivers. Satisfying the most brutal of appetites, Gospoda Kwiaty Polskie is a place where hospitality meets tradition in unique Polish fashion.

Gospoda Kwiaty Polskie ul. Wąski Dunaj 4/6/8, gospodakwiatypolskie.pl warsawinsider.pl

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A HIGHER LEVEL… OF TASTE

For a night to remember, look no further than the First Floor Restaurant!

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ach of us has different tastes and favorite flavors.

But everyone shares a passion for good food, served in interesting forms. Fresh ingredients, dishes prepared right before your eyes, amazing atmosphere – now, a new place in the heart of Warsaw’s Wola district combines all these factors and more!

Feel welcome to First Floor Restaurant. Opened recently, in September 2018, First Floor in addition to its excellent cuisine, stands out for its interesting offer of live cooking and live music. The stunning, stylish interiors were created with the support of the best designers with the leitmotif of the restaurant being the Art Deco style. Find austere elegance combined with the extravagant characteristics of the interwar period.

The kitchen is fully open and visible from almost every seat in the restaurant, and guests are free to watch the work of the chef and his team. Each ordered dish is made of fresh, top-quality products. Should you want, guests are free to watch closely how their steak or favorite fish is fried or grilled right in front of him at our special live cooking station.

Every Friday and Saturday from 8 p.m. the restaurant resounds to live music, with these performances an inseparable element of the First Floor experience. The rhythms of blues, jazz and Latino perfectly emphasize the unique atmosphere of this place, with our restaurant also serving breakfast in a varied, European-style buffet. Daily lunch specials contain not only classic and popular dishes of Polish cuisine, but also very sophisticated, global proposals. The menu of main dishes are equally varied and offer an extensive choice of different flavors – both classic and modern. If you’re looking for a place to spend time with your family, friends or business partners, you simply have to aim for a higher level of taste. Do just that by visiting us at the First Floor Restaurant.

First Floor Restaurant ul. Kasprzaka 31 (Varsovia Apartamenty), + 48 22 255 99 50, firstfloorrest.pl

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A­ LL IN THE PROCESS!

Try top wines, immerse yourself in music and… let us teach you how to make the perfect coffee…

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ur atmospheric café is where guests will learn coffee’s deepest secrets.

If ever you’ve wished to make coffee to rival that of the best baristas, then at Proces that dream can become a reality. Inside our café you’ll learn how to make sensational coffee at a self-service bar equipped with all the necessary tools to play with alternative methods. Of course, always on-hand are our watchful, expert staff, ready to answer your questions and guide you in your path. Want to learn more? Then keep a lookout for our open workshops…

Proces Kawki ul. Ks. I. Kłopotowskiego 23/25, fb.com/proceskawki

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THE TASTE OF WARSAW

Explore the new taste of town in Smaki Warszawy…

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t’s not just the location that’s central at Smaki Warszawy, but also its position in the hearts of Warsaw’s food fans.

Since opening in 2005, we’ve been celebrated for our pastry section, earning a reputation across the city for serving elaborate cakes and concoctions that are all made from scratch – visiting, you won’t find a sweeter side to the city: from towering, fluffy meringues, to gorgeous strawberry tarts and subtle mango mousses, Smaki Warszawy is where sweet dreams come true. Adored by all ages, the desserts remain one of the pillars fundamental to Smaki’s success.

But there is more! Away from the sweet counter, Smaki Warszawy takes its role as a restaurant seriously, a point underlined by our inclusion in the latest edition of the prestigious Gault & Millau guide as well as the numerous plaudits received from our longstanding customers. Visiting us, you’ll understand why.

Occupying an elegant white space that’s both sophisticated

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yet casual, it’s a restaurant in which guests are able discover the finer, lesser-known nuances of Polish cuisine: adapting classics to suit the demanding, modern palate, the chef’s star dishes include beef tartare with lovage mayonnaise, white truffle powder and marinated mushrooms, an intelligent creation that completely recharges a dish known to many. But the invention doesn’t end there, and diners shouldn’t leave without first trying either the salmon tartare – accompanied by chimichurri and green curry mayonnaise – or the cod and mozzarella croquettes in a thick oyster sauce.

These though are but a lead-up to the mains where options such as slow-cooked pork shoulder or hake with cuttlefish risotto vie for the attention. You won’t just like it, you’ll love it, and even more once the realization dawns that it’s now time for dessert…

Smaki Warszawy ul. Żurawia 47/49, smakiwarszawy.pl

“it’scentral not just the location that’s at Smaki Warszawy,

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

but also its position in the hearts of Warsaw’s food fans...

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LIFE IN THE SLOW LANE The campaign for the 13th edition of Slow Fashion is under way and here’s what lies in store...

13th Edition of Slow Fashion Pl. Konesera 2 (Centrum Praskie Koneser), slow-fashion.pl

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PHOTOGRAPHS THIS PAGE SZYMON ADAMCZYK

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n January 8th, at the Slow Concept Store in Atrium Promenada, a photo session was held ahead the spring edition of the Slow Fashion exhibition during which the organizers revealed some of those that will be patrons of the festival. Among these will be Magdalena Ziółkowska, who produces jewelry using plates; Alicjan Getka of LAB, which provides original leather accessories such as wallets, bags and cases; Mokosh Cosmetics who specialize in natural, ecological cosmetics; Karmen Łuszczyńska of Loli-Pop, an acclaimed brand well-known for their feminine dresses and international style; and Natalia Lipińska of COLORAT, a fashion house that combines aesthetic considerations with functionality and convenience.

Slow Fashion is a celebration of independent Polish fashion and design, with the next edition due to take place on March 9th and 10th inside Praga’s new Centrum Koneser. Over 250 brands and producers will be present, with the fair showcasing clothing, jewelry and accessories whilst also featuring lectures and seminars focused on ‘better fashion, responsible choices and conscious consumption’, as well as workshops inspired by the ‘slow’ ethos. The area will be split into the following zones: Premium, Casual, Street, Elegance, Kids, Men's Fashion, Body, Slow Food and Workshop.

FOR THE LOVE OF GREEN! The grocery store making a difference…

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orn from a love of fruit, veg, good food and even better living, Zielony na Pięknej is the greenest store you’ll find in Warsaw! Not only will visitors discover fruit, veg and preserves, but also a delicatessen quite like no other.

Sourcing our produce from local farmers, in summer you’ll find our offer enriched by the freshest of herbs, and in colder months peruse our range of sauerkraut and pickles all specially prepared for us – seasonality is our motto!

Our fridge, meanwhile, houses chops, pierogi, salads, soups, and plenty of vegetarian and vegan choices – these are simple, Polish, homemade flavors created using the highest quality, raw materials.

Selecting our goods from small producers, you’ll find an exciting new world of vegan cheese, meats, peanut butter, preserves, syrups, juices, teas and confectionary. Constantly changing and evolving, our offer is both extensive and exciting: from vegan bigos to oyster tripe and lentil meatballs, we’ve got it covered. Or how about a green and energizing cocktail? Visit us on Piękna 68A and enjoy delicious food at low prices. We also organize various tastings during which visitors can familiarize themselves with our products all for absolutely free!

Zielony na Pięknej ul. Piękna 68A, fb.com/zielonynapieknej warsawinsider.pl

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Enjoy the hospitality and tastes of the Bosphorus in Poland’s most authentic Turkish restaurant Pl. Konstytucji 2, tel. 883 444 441, anatolia.pl

eat!

PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

HOT ZIGGETY!

There’s been a nationwide pandemic of average Indian restaurants, but despite the rather slim menu Smak Curry can’t be included in that list of disappointments. On the contrary, what the menu lacks in size it compensates in taste: from big, walloping whacks of lavishly spiced pork Madras to sweet but subtle mango chicken, here’s a restaurant that feels it genuinely adds something extra to a saturated market. Complimented by bright, modern interiors and sunny, friendly wait staff, it’s a place that makes a blue February day feel that extra bit better.

Smak Curry ul. Belwederska 44

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TOP SHOT

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vodka bar next to a vodka museum inside a former vodka factory… yep, at Wuwu you can’t escape the facts: vodka is everywhere.

Since opening in the summer, Wuwu’s reputation for peerless cocktails (based on you know what) and late hours (closing time: never) has grown exponentially over the months that have followed.

But so too has its standing in the food chain…

THE PLACE

Wedged between the acclaimed Zoni restaurant and the Museum of Polish Vodka, expect a shadowy, narrow space designed by one of the country’s most prominent architects: Mirosław Nizio.

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Below: concrete. Above: illuminated tubes of light hanging from the ceiling.

To the sides, a glass block wall and graphic illustrations of the modernist wonders of Communist Poland. Feeling pure and proportioned, classy but understated, it makes sense to find it busy with start-up entrepreneurs, off-duty business bods and glossed-up night owls.

THE FOOD

Touted as one of Poland’s great gastronomic hopes, self-taught chef Adriana Marczewska seeks two things with her menu: first, to connect her food to vodka (each dish comes with pairing suggestions to open up the flavors), and second, to reintroduce the

public to the forgotten classics of interwar Warsaw. “There’s so much to show people,” she laughs, “that I sometimes wish I had space on the menu for 150 dishes.”

Inspired by local produce, seasonality and a no-waste philosophy, it’s a menu that inevitably strikes gold.

There’s duck tongues with grapes and hazelnuts; Marczewska’s signature tartar lashed with camelina mayonnaise and homemade fermentations; not to mention blood sausage with pickled apples and a deep bread sauce. It’s the food of the Polish winter, and as warm and welcoming as a hug from the chef.

Speaking with balance and know-how, care and attention, look on it as food that nourishes on a stark, icy day.

PHOTOGRAPHS MONIKA SZALEK

Where vodka and food come together as one…

Wuwu Pl. Konesera 1 (Centrum Praskie Koneser), wuwu.bar

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“

Postępu 5

represents a radiant burst of light for the office droids more familiar with cellophane wrapped sandwiches

THE HEART OF DARKNESS? Not anymore it ain’t! A new food concept hits Mordor in time to revive its reputation…

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hristened Mordor by the despairing employees who head there each working day, the area around Domaniewska doesn’t have the best public image. Cursed aloud for its grinding traffic and forbidding office compounds, few parts of Warsaw have been this maligned. Now though, there isn’t just hope, but also a solution to realign the spirit of this quarter. Call it Postępu 5.

“We believe in Mokotów as a rapidly developing area of Warsaw with huge business

and cultural potential,” says Tom Ekler of Postępu 5, “and our dream was to create a culinary-cultural concept that would draw local residents, outsiders and the workers of Mordor together, thereby changing the perhaps none-too-favorable way that it’s perceived and make it into a friendlier, more welcoming neighborhood.” Though still young, the mission – crazy as it sounds – appears to be succeeding.

Already known for their mother company, Skład Bananów (an on-site ethnic delicatessen with a dual function as a culinary school), the management of Postępu 5 have sought to recharge a set of surrounding empty outbuildings and garages by infilling them with a clutch of carefully selected vendors: Blin (for Russian-style pancakes and comfort food), Hotto Doggu (Japanese hot dogs), and Roger That Foods, a close quarters burger stop immediately identifiable by the monster smoker set outside.

But there is more. With nine food outlets in all (and more in the pipeline), Postępu 5 represents a radiant burst of light for the office droids more familiar with cellophane wrapped sandwiches and ready meals. And beyond good food, it’s become a place in which to gather in and savor. Already, plans are in the making for open air concerts and cinema screenings once the weather turns, whilst Axe Nation (yes, an axe throwing club!), has become one of the sensations of the district – ideal for after-work chill-down time, unleash your inner beast by chucking hefty, big axes at a sturdy wooden target.

Mordor as a force for good? Yep, and you heard it here first.

Postępu 5 ul. Postępu 5, postepu5.pl

EAT! Listings By in large, you can expect to pay between zł. 20-35 for starters, and zł.

35-70 for mains. Expect those prices to double in the case of the city’s fine dining venues. Those wishing to cut costs should seek out the weekday business lunch deals now offered by most restaurants. When tipping, 10-20% is considered polite though be aware of automatic service charges in some venues.

american 41 bakeries 41 balkan 41 chinese 41 comfort food 42 desserts 42 fine dining 42 french 44 georgian 44 greek & turkish 44 indian 45 indonesian 46 international 46 italian 51 japanese & sushi 52 korean 53 latin & spanish 54 mexican 54 middle eastern 55 polish 56 scandinavian 61 seafood 61 specialty food shops 61 steak houses 62 street food 64 thai 64 ukrainian 65 vegan & wholefood 65 vietnamese 66

american Koko & Roy Spotlighting ‘New American Cuisine’, the thrust here is on comfort food, albeit several steps beyond what you’d rustle up at home: the Odds & Ends (deep fried pigs tails and chicken hearts tumbled into a big bowl and served with pickled red onions and a lash of sriracha aioli) are bold, unexpected and utterly delicious.

Fun, innovative and pleasingly casual, it’s a bit like visiting friends who really know how to cook. (D5) ul. Wilcza 43

bakeries Aromat That many consider this their favorite bakery says it all. French flour and an expert baker ensure brilliant results, while the lemon éclairs deserve their own Facebook page. (C4) ul. Sienna 39, fb.com/ piekarnia.aromat Café Vincent Queues build quickly as locals line up to buy baguettes, cinnamon rolls, lemon croissants and beautiful pains au chocolat. But people don’t just head in then out, a small wine list and brilliant people spying opportunities cause many to hang around. (D3) ul. Nowy Świat 64 Paul Specializing in pastries, baguettes and other baked goods, this French chain have rapidly entrenched themselves in the capital following their debut last year.

Various locations, boulangeries-paul.com SAM Co-owner Małgorzata Kusina-Doran is a fine-bread connoisseur, honing her skills at a bread-making course chaired

by Raymond Blanc. While SAM have expanded to cover numerous locations, this has not been to the cost of the overall quality. many locations, sam.info.pl

balkan Banja Luka Lots of clunky timber and imported

ceramics set the scene at this eatery, a Balkan stalwart that’s known for its economical pricing structure and bulky portions. Grilled meats are prominent and the food largely reliable. (E8) ul. Szkolna 2/4, tel. 22 828 1060, banjaluka.pl Na Bałkany This newbie modernizes the Balkan experience in a manner Warsaw’s yet to see: raw, industrial aesthetics meet head on with a menu that adds a delicate finesse to a cuisine better known for its heavy, rustic style. The addition of a light, sophisticated hand has not, however, been to the detriment of taste. Of the favorites, the swordfish steak, lamb goulash and beef plejskavica sell particularly well.

It feels all the more complete with a rakija or three. Full review soon. (D6) ul.

Koszykowa 47 (entry from ul. Koszykowa 53), tel. 22 118 38 38, nabalkany.pl

chinese

Pańska 85 Ample in size, the interiors speak of money well spent. This is especially true because despite the luxury trimmings Pańska looks good without ever losing its dignity. With their kitchen staff headhunted from across China, the food sets a standard that has yet to be seen in any Chinese restaurant in Warsaw: there’s delicate salmon rolls wrapped in mango; dim sum that are pouches of pure goodness; and Sichuan-style pork that’s a blaze of sizzle and spice. The Beijing Duck, carved and served table-side, is the highlight. (B4) ul. Pańska 85, panska85.com Regina Bar Taking their inspiration from New York’s Little Italy and Chinatown, the menu at Regina is the very definition of ethnic comfort food: won-ton dumplings, ribs in sticky hoisin sauce and the best-selling General Tso chicken – famed for its healing properties, it’s one of the best hangover remedies around. On the Italian front, leopard-spotted pizzas land are presented with wheel-bladed knives in a kooky, retro interior featuring a dangling warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings chandelier and the tallest mirror in Poland (possibly). (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, fb.com/Reginabar Udon Noodle Bar Hidden behind fogged-up windows, the simplistic interiors belie a brief menu that has struck a chord with the local Chinese community for the authenticity of its hand-stretched Lamian noodles and freshly-steamed dim sum – they look good, and they eat even better.

Reminiscent of the kind of clattery venue found in China Towns the world over, what the Udon Noodle bar lacks in choice and aesthetics is counter-balanced courtesy of plump little dumplings you can’t get enough of. (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 85

comfort food Barn Burger Considered one of the founding fathers of Warsaw’s burger culture, Barn Burger have withstood the test of time and emerged as the yardstick all others are judged against. Prepped using freshly ground Charolais beef, choices include the jalapeno-laid Muppet and the outrageous Bypass (400g of beef with quadruple cheese and bacon). If you want to go down in legend, enter one of their Americanstyle speed eating comps. (D4) ul. Złota 9. tel. 512 157 567, barnburger.pl Burger Bar Warsaw has come full-circle: years after burgers briefly starred as the national food, it’s the original burger joint that still bosses the field. ul. Puławska 974/80 (enter from Olkuska) & ul. Krucza 41/43, burgerbar.waw.pl Efes Forget the restaurant bit, it’s the window hatch you’ll want. Here, muddy manual laborers and polo-shirted locals tolerate each other to stand in chaotic queues that often snake onto the street. The reason?

Warsaw’s finest kebab. (H4) ul. Francuska 1, tel. 22 616 2580, restauracjaefes.pl Kura Pairing fried chicken with double-fried chunky chips, think of this budget stop as an artisanal take on KFC for the posthipster generation. And best of all, check

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their homemade sauces: from the tart and spicy Challenger No. 3, to the tangy Mango-BBQ option, these are sauces that open the gateway to addiction. The ultimate definition of comfort food, look on Kura as one of the city’s best examples of street food culture gone right. (B2) ul.

Nowolipki 15, restauracjakura.pl Pogromcy Meatów Yearn no more for the elusive flavor of the backyard BBQ. Specializing in grilled meat, find exactly just that loaded into artisan buns alongside locally grown greens. The sense of homespun quality makes this the kind of comfort food that Warsaw has been missing for years. (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, tel. 505 703 508 Warburger While Warsaw has lost its appetite for burgers, you wouldn’t necessarily tell by popping in WarBurger. Set inside a diminutive cabin, join the scrum for jazzed-up burgers that use slow-food ingredients. If not the best, they’re most certainly up there. (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1, warburger.pl

desserts Deseo Burakowska Luxury desserts, pralines and tarts served inside an ivy clad building in a leafy post-industrial complex off Burakowska.

The contemporary style is reflected by an interior that’s modern, pared down and richly bathed in sloping sunlight. ul.

Burakowska 5/7, deseopatisserie.com Lokal Dela Krem That you can now buy vegan, mojito-flavored cupcakes in Warsaw is an indication of the city’s fanatical commitment to healthy living. A roaring success, the first vegan cake shop in the country has become a local staple. (D5) ul. Hoża 27A Lukullus Founded in 1946, Lukullus have evolved into a funky boutique cafe chain noted for quirky interiors and buzzy atmosphere.

Oh, and desserts. Renouncing short cuts and low-cost ingredients, this family enterprise has earned a name for top quality desserts that see traditional favorites updated for the modern times.

Various locations, lukullus.pl Miss Mellow Mixing sophisticated desserts with those that fall more on the filthy food porn side of thigs, Miss Mellow have hit the bull’s eye by offering something for everyone that enjoys the sweeter things in life.

Lauded even by Vogue, find a wicked rundown of toasts, brioches, financiers, brownies, cookies and cakes. Eschewing chemical nasties, it’s a place in which the owners’ commitment towards quality resonates throughout. (D5) ul. Wilcza 62 MOD Warsaw has always loved donuts, but it took the arrival of MOD to elevate this humble doughy vice to new levels with a glam New York-inspired makeover. The mango topped donut is our favorite by miles. (D7) ul. Oleandrów 8 Odette The original spot for ‘fine dining desserts’, Odette’s cool interior causes attention to naturally fall on the long, sleek counter that occupies one end. It’s here that sweet creations glint like boutique little jewels.

(D4) ul. Górskiego 6/07, odette.pl Warszawski Lukier The home of hardcore instagram food porn . Look for their signature freak shakes: towering treats cascading with calories and color. Their sister op on Żurawia has more of the same… and ice cream! (E5) ul. Hoża 5/7

fine dining Atelier Amaro If Wojciech Amaro’s eponymous restaurant isn’t the most famous in the country, then it’s certainly the most important.

Awarded Poland’s first Michelin star in 2013, it’s a venue that continues to set the pace in terms of innovation. Changing weekly, his ‘calendar of nature’ seeks to present forgotten ingredients such as little-known berries, herbs and flowers against meats and other ingredients reared or grown at the Atelier farm. One for any bucket list, there are occasions when dining here can feel like an out-of-body experience. Abandoning their original home at the start of 2019, we’re

EAT! Listings visiting soon to see if anything’s changed in their new city center venue. (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 10/14, atelieramaro.pl Amber Room at the Sobański Palace Set in the pre-war Pałac Sobańskich, this pristine manor house is everything you expect: hushed, lavish, cultured and classy. The food fits the backdrop: devised

by Robert Skubisz, the contemporary menu draws spontaneous outbreaks of collective joy. Maze-like in its layout, there’s enough nooks and secret rooms to make Amber Room the ideal address for expense account meetings.

(E6) Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, amberroom.pl Belvedere Łazienki Królewskie Set in an imperial age glass orangery, it’s festooned with intricate latticework and botanical exotica. The updated interiors are the work of acclaimed set designer Boris Kudlicka, and lend a fresh, contemporary tone that goes hand in hand with the menu. But behind the gels and emulsions and pretty little swirls, this is cooking of substantial depth; it’s cooking that takes you to the very soul of Polish nature. (F6) ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. 22 558 6701, belvedere.com.pl Chłodna 15 by Wilamowski Gone are the Alice in Wonderland decorations of the previous tenant, La Maison, replaced instead by a muted charcoal

look that’s reassuringly refined – for the time you’re here, you forget you’re on the ground floor of a 70s tower block.

Aiding the amnesia is the classic French cooking of Arkadiusz Wilamowski: small and mercurial in its content, the daily-changing menu is a work of preposterous detail – no sauce takes less than a day to make. So the rumors go, Michelin are watching closely. (B3) ul.

Chłodna 15, choldna15.pl Europejski Grill The flagship restaurant of the Raffles Europejski has cut no corners in their bid to become one of the city’s top restaurants. A seriously swish interior of pearl white colors is teed-up against contemporary flashes (hexagonal lighting, outsized plates hanging from the wall) and gleaming silverware.

Enjoying precisely composed dishes such as beetroot tartar or Dover Sole is a well-tailored crowd that expects nothing but the best. (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, raffles.com/warsaw N31 Been there, done it all. That’s Robert Sowa, a national treasure widely hailed for modernizing Poland’s gastronomic sector back in the country’s culinary dark days. A common sight on TV, the chef’s public profile has meant there’s no shortage of bums on seats in his flagship restaurant, but this is more

than a chef trading on his past. A chic city center bubble beloved by business types, the food is first class with Sowa’s international travels reflected by surprises such as flawless tuna partnered with kabayaki sauce, yuzu, wasabi dressing and turnip salad. The flavor combinations are exceptional. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 31, n31restaurant.pl

Nolita BEST WAWA 2017 “Fine Dining” For many diners, there is no bigger night out than one that begins and ends in this enclave of class. Dashing in its monochrome colors and muted gunmetal shades, Nolita is where Warsaw heads to live the life of the 1%. Lacking the magic tricks of some, the ‘show factor’ might be subdued but the tastes definitely aren’t.

Who to credit? Two words: Jacek Grochowina. Cooking with poise and focus, his menu is a marriage of the classic and creative, with core ingredients given unexpected lifts with cunning turns and inspired little twists: maybe some yuzu with the tartare or konbu with the eel. (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 292 0424, nolita.pl Platter by Karol Okrasa It’s a fact that Okrasa’s appear-

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EAT! Listings ances in the kitchen are fleeting and rare, but that’s done nothing to hurt this restaurant’s prestige. Head chef Łukasz Pielak has proved to be a lethal assassin, executing the ideas of his mentor with accuracy and passion. The cooking is detailed, balanced and elegant, with the highlight of our visit being deer in plum sauce. A thing of imperial, velvety richness it’s a dish that turns up the volume on a memorable experience. (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (Hotel InterContinental Warsaw), warsaw.intercontinental.com Senses Diners are best advised to leave logic outside. Inspired by the idea of ‘note-by-note’ cooking, Italian-born chef Andrea Camastra isolates and extracts molecules from ingredients to obtain the purest flavors before matching them up with unlikely partners. What unfolds is a dazzling show of near illusory brilliance; the technical proficiency of the kitchen is exceptional and makes the WTF prices easier to swallow. Wrap-up the evening with a pungent, edible cigar. (C2) ul.

Bielańska 12, tel. 22 331 9697, sensesrestaurant.pl Signature If you thought hotel restaurants were the mundane realm of business travelers then you haven’t visited Signature.

The design incorporates architectural elements from the times this functioned as the Soviet Embassy, Oswald chairs and photos of Marilyn shot by Milton Greene. Then, along comes the food, a sophisticated pan-European event with occasional Polish accents. Dessert, especially the mille-feuille, should not be missed. (D5) ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 55 38755, signaturerestaurant.pl

french

L’Arc Looking elegant with its black/white floors and subtle decorations bills at L’Arc can become big number affairs – especially if you hanker for seafood. Pick from numerous types of oysters or delve

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into the fish tank for the lobster of your choosing. The catchment area extends beyond the borders of Mokotów, not just because of their ‘fresh from France’ seafood, but because of classic dishes such as Mulard duck and Burgundy snails. (E8) ul. Puławska 16, larc.pl La Cocotte Saska Already well regarded on account of a highly successful venture just off Pl. Zbawiciela, La Cocotte have spread their wings to set up shop in scenic Saska. A typical French-style bistro / wine bar, the offer includes a brief but largely brilliant menu whose main strength is its mussels. (H4) ul. Walecznych 68A

georgian Chinkali Signposted by a Georgian-language shingle, there’s a real sense of pleasure about this place. More modern than your typical folksy ethnic outpost, Chinkali’s draw is indeed its chinkali: dough purses packed with meaty broth. There’s a genuine homemade quality to these slurpy bundles of joy, meaning that while they’re authentic, consistency can vary. And don’t miss out on the red bean chachapuri washed down with a mouthwash-colored tarragon lemonade. (D4) ul. Zgoda 3 Klukovka Jana Pawła’s pavilions are the unlikely location of this culinary beacon: amid the aggressive waft of its kebab shop neighbors, Klukova presents itself as a warming mouse hole filled with banter, babble and rich aromas. Specializing in the foods of ‘the east’, this means a menu inspired by the tastes of Georgia, Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan, and more. The mutton manty dumplings are great, and best appreciated with a bottle of unfiltered Lithuanian beer. (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 45A, klukovka.pl Rioni Warsaw’s foodies like talking of ‘cursed locations’, and they don’t get more hexed than Mokotowska 17. But despite its history of failed ventures, Rioni feel better placed than most to break the jinx.

Set in a curving brick room lit by dangling overhead bulbs, join a young-ish crowd

for juicy Georgian dumplings oozing with meat and herbs, hearty soups and big, doughy wheels of cheese-filled chaczapuri. (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17 (enter from Pl. Zbawiciela), rioni.pl Rusiko To the uninitiated, Georgian food is representative of the heart, spirit and passion of its people; it’s a cuisine that values the concept of the feast: wine, laughter and song find themselves elevated to roles of primary importance. A food of life, spice and whole-hearted tastes, consider Rusiko as the best ambassador there is for this surprisingly diverse kitchen.

Note: closed Monday. (E5) Al. Ujazdowskie 22, tel. 22 629 0628, rusiko.pl

greek & turkish

Anatolia Looking dark and moody, Anatolia adds a veneer of sophistication to the traditional Turkish dining experience; presentation, you can tell, is important, but so too is the general sense of replicating the standards of home. Meat finds itself treated with reverence, and that holds especially true when it comes to steak and lamb.

(D6) Pl. Konstytucji 2, anatolia-waw.pl Maho Maho feels like it’s located at the end of the earth – but its distance deters no-one, least of all its army of hardcore followers. Why are they there? The answer is a Turkish grill that takes you right to the heart of this glorious cuisine.

Highly recommended is the Iskender kebab: layers of juicy doner meat served with scoops of fresh tomato sauce and fresh, thin pide bread straight from the wood-fired oven. While you’re there, you may as well stock up on imported goodies from their adjoining store. Al. Krakowska 240/242, maho.com.pl Paros Out of all of Warsaw’s Greek contributions Paros dazzles most with a glitzy look that’s a complete U-turn from

EAT! Listings the typical taverna look. Owned by the same team behind El Greco, the menu is identical, though a recent visit suggests a kitchen resting on its laurels – not one plate on our table was finished. (D4) ul. Jasna 14/16, tel. 22 828 1067, paros-restauracja.pl Santorini Santorini looks scuffed and tired but there’s a bonhomie present that instantly engages. The kitchen attaches no value to things like presentation, preferring instead to simply treat diners to piles of grilled and skewered food that consistently tastes right. ul. Egipska 7, tel. 22 672 0525, kregliccy.pl/santorini/ Sofra A highly respected Turkish eatery with a wondrous beef mussaka and a wholly admirable lineup of other ethnic dishes: the lamb shashlik has never failed us.

Pleasingly informal, this neighborhood

redoubt feels cheerfully unforced, and it becomes an easy place to hang around in.

(C6) ul. Wilcza 71, tel. 731 847 731

The vindaloo is a special standout, with big, punchy flavors that leave you tingling long after you leave. (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 606 688 777, bombajmasala.pl

indian

Curry House Ask for something extra hot in Curry House and by Suresh that’s what you’ll get. Yet at Curry House there is more to Bollywood Lounge sing about than just Poland’s highest Known for their raucous dusk-till-dawn parties, there is another less hedonistic roll voltage vindaloo. The curries are rich and sumptuous and consistently cited filled by Bollywood: that of a restaurant. as among the best in the city. If in doubt, The menu is an uncomplicated, classic the chicken tikka masala is a fail-safe affair that’s an ideal primer for the party request. ul. Żeromskiego 81 & ul. Hoża 54, ahead. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, tel. 22 827 curry-house.pl 0283, bollywoodlounge.pl Bombaj Masala Not just the best looking of Warsaw’s Indian restaurants, Bombaj Masala also has some of the best cooking. With so many restaurants reliant on one ‘master pot’ for their curry, this classy venue feels unique in delivering a variety of rich, intense tastes.

Curry Leaf The post-industrial style is diluted by the number of Indian trinkets hanging off the vents and pipes. Owned by the same crew

Finest Authentic Indian Cuisine in Locations Around Warsaw WWW.CURRY-HOUSE.PL

HOŻA 54

536 443 771

ŻEROMSKIEGO 81 508 870 774

KONDRATOWICZA 59 789 444 921

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EAT! Listings behind the lauded Curry House, you’d be completely correct to assume consistency and excellence. ul. Conrada 5, curryleaf.pl

Guru Moving into the space vacated by the lamentable BrewDog pub, Guru joins the city’s (very) shortlist of higher end Indians.

The menu is a union of local, seasonal ingredients (organic this, farmyard that) and imported spices, coming together to blast the competition out of the water.

From the openers, the chili chicken fry stands out as a dish that’s all snap and crackle, while of the mains the tikka masala is exceptional in taste. Plus points for Indian-themed cocktails that really hit the mark – easily one of our favorite openings of 2018. (D4) ul. Widok 8, gururestauracja.pl House of Curry Heat seekers can ‘enjoy’ a genuine deathby-fire experience at House of Curry, though far milder curries are available for more sensitive palettes – either way, the experience is fantastic, and good news for those stuck out in the depths of Józefów. ul. Patriotów 11 A, house-of-curry.pl Indian Taste Set within a new residential complex on the border of Żoliborz, this smart-looking labor of love presents traditional favorites alongside lesser-known choices such as mango chicken and lamb amritsari. If you’re in luck, find meals complimented with additional chili concoctions made by the chef. Pl. Niemena 1, indiantaste.pl Mandala This long-standing legend is known for its ample portions and online delivery service. Sitting down, the creamy mutton methi is a masterpiece, and the Madras recognized for its blitzing big spices. Their latest operation, set out on Sienna, is open for Indian-style breakfast. ul. Emilii Plater 9/11 / ul. Etiudy Rewolucyjnej 9 & ul. Sienna 87, mandalaklub.com or indiaexpress.pl Mr. India Split on two levels the design is contemporary if a little characterless: leather banquettes that leave a sweaty

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bum print and wood paneling. No problem though: if it looks bland then the food isn’t.

That means an incredible butter chicken that’s deep and immensely satisfying.

Then there’s the vindaloo, an experience that leaves some close to spontaneous combustion. Al. KEN 47, tel. 22 213 0689, mrindia.pl Smak Curry There’s been a pandemic of average Indian restaurants, but despite the rather slim menu Smak Curry deserves praise for some of the best eastern cooking we’ve seen this year. Looking good on all fronts, the lavishly spiced dishes are complimented by bright, modern interiors and sunny, friendly wait-staff. (E8) ul.

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indonesian Warung Jakarta The menu has a street food edge and is divided into steps wherein diners first pick out their choice of protein, then their rice, before concluding with any vegetables add-ons (e.g. pak choy, green beans or water spinach). While most Warsaw restaurants have a special lunch scheme going on, Warung’s is one that actually warrants a further look: find truly great off-menu dishes that are highly accessible to all levels of income. (D6) ul.

Piękna 28/34

international Ale Wino Blurring the lines between wine bar and restaurant, the style is easy, breezy and powerfully magnetic – occupying a spread of atmospheric rooms to the back of a Mokotowska courtyard, seats are sometimes hard to come by. The reason: chef Sebastian Wełpa. Of the recent highlights, the rump of lamb with horseradish puree, marinated carrot and bison grass sauce stands out as one of the Insider’s top meals of 2018. (F5) ul. Mokotowska 48, tel.

22 628 3830, alewino.pl Aurelio Run by a ‘neuro-gastronomist’, Aurelio aims to connect art and emotions with

health and wellbeing via the medium of food. Psychobabble aside, what you’ll find is a beautifully laid-out restaurant with some mesmerizing art, a busy cultural program and a globally-inspired menu based on toxin free produce. For instance, order up a Thai-style duck breast served with orange-ginger puree, elderflower foam and smoked plum sauce – it’s likely you’ll be impressed.

(D4) ul. Świętokrzyska 14, aurelio.pl Bazar Kocha Designed to evoke the spirit of a farmers’ market, the woodsy interior is filled with stall-style units neatly stacked with jars and pots. Yet these are not decorative decoys, but part of a thoughtful grocery offer aimed at showcasing Kocha’s own-made produce. Above all though, this is a restaurant whose menu is strongly influenced by concepts of ‘terroir’. The giant leg of lamb falls off the bone and is a dish to recommend and remember for several months to come.

(D6) ul. Mokotowska 33, bazarkocha.pl Bez Tytułu Gosh. Co-owned by the Kasia Michalski Gallery to the flank, the restaurant feels like a natural extension: find contemporary art and photography set against raw brickwork while pendant bulbs cast a soft light down. Onto the important stuff, and Erwan Debono’s menu makes much of his native French background as well as Poland’s own rich access to produce. The results come together in a way that’s nuanced and subtle. (D5) ul.

Poznańska 16, beztytulu.com Bibenda The menu declares Bibenda to be ‘a celebration of food, drink and togetherness’, and that’s precisely what it is.

Augmenting the warm, busy interiors are a thoughtful selection of craft beers and a concise menu that varies from month-to-month. The apparent simplicity of the food is illusory and belies the kitchen’s knack for spotting interesting combinations such as goose with pumpkin puree, cranberry / red wine jam and chili caramelized beetroot.

Not everything goes to plan, and consistency is an issue, but Bibenda’s general approval ratings show no signs of waning. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 10, tel.

502 770 303, bibenda.pl

EAT! Listings Brasserie Warszawska Looking for classic cuisine with no daft flights of fancy? Here you have it. At a time when everyone wants to be Ferran Adrià, Brasserie has both a menu and interior that you can understand: panfried foie gras; elegant beef Rossini; and sinful apple tarte tatin, all served inside posh interiors of zinc-plated mirrors and chessboard floors. Their Michelin Bib Gourmand is a source of pride, but it’s the number of repeat clients that are the ultimate paean to the skills of the chef.

(E5) ul. Górnośląska 24, tel. 22 628 9423, brasseriewarszawska.pl Bubbles Occupying a small, square room, it’s intimate and relaxed: a place busy with blackboards and bottles, crates and clutter. It radiates warmth and honesty.

The food is exquisite, and includes big, meaty snails farmed in Mazury, and their signature dish: Swiss-style raclette. Pre-

sented on a wooden chopping board, this cheese dish is classic melty goodness, and served alongside a pile of potatoes, onions marinated with caramel and candied pumpkin. Considering the place doubles as a champagne bar the prices are remarkably moderate. (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 512 540 913, bubbles.com.pl Der Elefant This leviathan restaurant unravels in a maze of wrought iron and monochrome tiles – beautiful to look at (it was created

by Oscar-winning set designer Allan Starski), it’s caused a stir for more than just this alone. Where once the menu looked like it was devised by throwing darts at a cookbook, the focus has now been narrowed. While some of the dishes are strictly middling, the filet mignon (zł.

69) is one of the best meat deals in town in terms of quality / price / consistency. (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, tel. 22 890 0010, derelefant.com

Dom Here’s the very epitome of casual dining: set on the ground floor of a suburban house, the warm corners and garden views give Dom a real sense of homey charm. In line with all that is a menu that celebrates simple, honest cooking.

Everyone who visits ends up loving the place and coming back for more. ul.

Mierosławskiego 12, tel. 509 165 712 Drukarnia Wrapped inside an ugly 1950s facade, this former printing house unravels to expose a sensational interior high on retro pieces: jagged-shaped stone floor tiles, a red neon and stern Socialist era statuettes lend a heavy PRL accent, though the big statement at Drukarnia is supplied courtesy of the architecture itself. Tall windows, high ceilings and a peculiar spiral staircase that disappears into nowhere collude to lend Drukarnia a sense of light, space and depth. The food:

Focaccia Ristorante Modern take on Italian cuisine

by Samuele Mariani

tel.: +48 22 829 69 69 ul. Senatorska 13/15, Warsaw/Old Town restauracja@focaccia.pl, fb.com/restauracjafocaccia www.focaccia.pl

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EAT! Listings limited choice of European standards cooked with competence. If you’re in the area, worth a look ul. Mińska 65, drukarnianapradze.pl Dyletanci Filled with crisp, modern citizens that radiate confidence, Dyletanci introduces itself as a bistro set with green banquettes and Tom Dixon lamps. The wine selection is among the best in the nation, while the cooking has been left to Rafał Hreczaniuk, a workaholic chef with outrageous talent. His zander fillet thrills with every bite. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44A, dyletanci.pl Fest Port Czerniakowski Bring out the clichés: at Fest quality rules over quantity. Food-wise, there’s not much to choose from, but it’s doubtful you’ll find better ribs for a few hundred miles.

Cooked outdoors on a beast of a smoker, these are glorious things of atavistic joy.

Improving the mood yet further is the backdrop, a timber cabin in a wooded part of Warsaw. There’s nowhere else like it.

(G6) ul. Zaruskiego 8 GarMasz Combining the functions of a store, butchery and, above all, a restaurant, GarMasz is the creation of Piotr Pielichowski, a cook best-known for his appearances on the Polish edition of Master Chef. A keen promoter of natural ingredients and fancy

delicacies, his restaurant is stunning in every respect: three years in the making, even the interiors will blow you away.

Designed by Gdańsk-based architect Krystian Rassmus, details include oak finishes, 18th century tiling and swish chandeliers. Full report soon. (E4) ul.

Kopernika 5 Genesis What the hell is it? Seen as an amorphous blob composed of triangular white plates and large glass panels, Genesis restaurant is an instant head turner. the feeling is of stepping into your own futuristic space adventure. As for the menu, that’s been revamped by the new chef, former Top Chef contestant Paweł Kibart, and makes use of a Mibrasa charcoal oven – apparently the first in Poland. (A4) Pl. Europejski 5, fb.com/genesiswarsaw L’enfant Terrible Looking like he’s just swaggered in from a rock concert, the unconventional style of Michał Bryś goes beyond surface detail alone. Promising maximum excitement, his imaginative menu isn’t short on daring twists and rollercoaster highs.

Maverick in every sense of the word, this is a chef that pushes boundaries in a way few others would dare. Though the menu changes often, keep an eye on recurring classics such as ‘tomatoes, tomatoes, tomatoes’, a kickass course that presents the humble tomato in about ten different

forms! (D8) ul. Sandomierska 13 (enter from Rejtana), tel. 22 119 5705, eterrible.pl Kieliszki Na Hożej Set on the corner of an ornate pre-war building, Kieliszki casts a warm, beckoning glow on the street outside – resisting its charms is entirely impossible. The cooking is just as seductive and sees Polish mainstays such as dumplings, tartare and herring given a 21st century update. Superb wines, all of which are available by the glass, round out the experience. (D5) ul. Hoża 41, kieliszkinahozej.pl

Kromki Better known for kebab stores and booze outlets, this section of JPII does at times chuck up the occasional surprise: Kromki, for one. The menu is a Jack-ofall-trades, with pizza and burgers rubbing shoulders against pierogi, steak and sharing plates. Yet despite the randomness of the choices and the curious location, there’s something here that really strikes the right note. Expect tastes that work inside a informal, casual space that’s fast taking off as a local secret. Al. Jana Pawła II 45A

La Brasserie Modern The interior of Didier Gomez whispers intimacy, yet it also embraces notions of space and light. The casual elegance that emanates from the design is accented by warm colors, low banquettes and glinting mirrors. The menu fits seamlessly with the surrounds: a fresh, modern look at French cuisine, but one that values clarity and simplicity. (D3) ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8332, sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com

A MODERN BISTRO IN WARSAW'S MURANÓW Jana Pawła II 45a, lok. 38, Tel: 666 043 043 kromkibistro.pl fb.com/kromkibistro

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Lente There’s a valid reason for the optimism swirling around Hoża, not least the launch

EAT! Listings of venues such as Lente. Revamping Mediterranean cuisine for the 21st century diner, this casual spot feels suitably bright and sunny. Featuring the talented Terry Price in the kitchen, food here shines a spotlight on tapas and sharing plates and has thus far met with widespread approval. Full report soon!

(D5) ul. Hoża 43/49 Loft Color, that’s what Loft has. It’s everywhere – from the design, which is all bubble shaped lights and splashy, bright cushions, to the drinks: extravagant cocktails that possibly glow in the dark. The menu is full of playful experimentation, something reflected by a seasonal menu that has, in the past, presented such choices as chicken with strawberries. (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 668 016 964, restauracjaloft.pl MOD Where odd couplings are concerned, MOD takes the biscuit: hip donut store by day, at night it morphs into a cool restaurant whose card veers between steaming bowls of ramen and inventive modern dishes that harness the chef’s classic French training (think: beef cheeks with gremolata, tahini mash, veal jus and caramelized sprouts). It’s crazy popular with creative types touting man buns and t-shirts that threaten: “I Shoot Hipsters”. (D6) ul. Oleandrów 8, fb.com/ MODOleandrow8 Mokolove A clear U-turn from the chef’s recent fine dining background (formerly the sous at Nolita, should you ask), there’s something welcoming and warm about this Mokotów venture. Already, you feel a familiarity in the air, not to mention a care and attention towards both produce and punters. The menu, meanwhile, speaks for the need of comfort with its offer of pizza, pastas and seasonal dishes such as pumpkin soup. But wait! The Insider was left disappointed on its latest visit in Jan. So say our notes: “mediocre service, empty restaurant and wrong order delivered!”

(E9) ul. Różana 14 Mokotowska 69 Set inside a rotunda at the tail end of the

street, it’s a place that exudes elegance and class. Most of all, however, it’s a restaurant to be enjoyed. Brought to you by the same team credited for Merliniego 5, Mokotowska’s appreciation of steak has been lifted from their elder sister.

Yet the virtues of this restaurant extend beyond steak alone: the Insider enjoyed a volley of greats – creamy breaded calf brains, sophisticated smoked eel, and Mazurian crayfish served in a deep, joyous sauce of rowan berry and brandy.

(E5) ul. Mokotowska 69, tel. : +22 628 7384 mokotowska69.com Momu Dominated by meat that’s cooked using the only smoker of its kind in Poland, the menu is comforting and strangely familiar: these are flavors reminiscent of campfire nights – brawny, smoky tastes with towering Reuben sandwiches, juicy steaks, bone marrow and wooden slabs brimming with meats from MOMU’s smokehouse. Impromptu art, tweeting birds and a neo-industrial design add oomph to the busy ambiance. (C2) ul.

Wierzbowa 11, tel. 506 100 001, momu.pl Opasły Tom The ground floor – all swanky lighting and navy blue seating – is often packed, so it’s downstairs you may head to an intimate space more reminiscent of the original location formerly found on Foksal: here, it’s about muted colors and reassuring shadow. Characterized by its balanced, nuanced flavors and thoughtful combinations, the first menu to debut at this relaunched restaurant sees a medley of dishes you demand to eat again: pumpkin and curd dumplings served in a cheese sauce being the prime example.

(D2) ul. Wierzbowa 9 Pink Lobster The door clatters shut to divulge a narrow space of tall palm fronds and marble finishes underneath soaring ceilings that seem to stretch on forever. Bursts of flamingo pink colors lend a dapper sense of dazzle to this polished-looking venue. Food is an upscale work that, in spite of the Lobster’s name, awards equal importance to land and sea. Beautifully plated, dishes that the Insider fell for inc. sea bass ceviche, an exquisite exhibition of complex tastes set down in a slash of green on a plate that could pass for a warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings work of sculpture. Immaculate roe deer and a series of extravagant desserts also won praise. (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, pinklobster.pl Plato BEST WAWA 2017 “Neo Bistro” Conceived as a ‘smart casual’ restaurant, it’s a reasonably compact space with a modern style and incandescent bulbs hanging from a complex cat’s cradle of interweaving wires: classy but nothing too flashy or flamboyant. Then there’s the menu, a strange work that sees Spanish

Try our special Valentines collection of macarons.

They are full of flavour and aphrodisiacs.

Al. Jana Pawła II 43/25 Francuska 48 Hala Koszyki tel. 509 912 282 www.melody.pl

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influences brushing shoulders next to Polish and Asian. It sounds silly and preposterous but my God it works. December saw us wowed by beef tartar cut from Polish Hereford, an aromatic oriental broth, and a refined halibut encircled with sage pesto, redcurrants and fresh almonds. Stunning. ul. Klimczaka 1 (Royal Wilanow), restauracjaplato.pl Restauracja Warszawska Humongous in size, the vast spaces and lack of natural light never feel an issue.

Loaded with slick finishes and polished raw materials, find this subterranean venue unraveling amid the giant original foundations that support this pre-war skyscraper. Divided into ‘snacks’, ‘plates’, ‘sides’ and ‘desserts’, big shouts go for the golden schnitzel as well as the spicy pork dumplings served in a vibrant essence of paprika. It’s not a big menu, but it doesn’t need to be: exceptional in every respect, this restaurant has become one of foodie Warsaw’s biggest talking points. Upscale-casual has rarely felt this good. (D4) Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9 (Hotel Warszawa), warszawa. hotel.com.pl Rozbrat 20 This busy neo-bistro fuses upmarket, casual styling with an exciting wine list, interactive service and the kind of atmosphere you can’t get enough of. Under chef Bartosz Szymczak’s leadership, Rozbrat’s grown to become one of the blogospheres favorite write-ups. Never the same, if there’s a consistent thread to visits then it’s the playful inventiveness that has come to define Szymczak’s cooking. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 20, rozbrat20. com.pl Soul Kitchen Bistro If the previous venue was all slanted towards low-pitched business conversation then the new one is positively festive in comparison: scuffed brickwork, tall bar stools, a long communal table, etc.

The seasonal menu is a pick-and-mix of small-to-medium plates, including a halibut gravlax, whose delicate taste juxtaposes well against the rougher, earthier kick of the radish, and crayfish presented in a bird’s nest of green beans, fennel and leek. For mains, look for the braised beef. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 18A, soulkitchen.pl

Stixx It’s easy to distrust a menu with such international diversity, but the kitchen crew really make it come together: the Indian section is particularly outstanding. Then there’s the design, a balance between slick corporate and sexy cosmopolitan: with the Warsaw Spire towering above it outside, it’s the kind of address to take any new arrival who still thinks of Poland as being backward. (A4) Pl. Europejski 4A, tel. 22 340 4040, stixx.pl Strefa If there’s a dining room in heaven, then it probably looks like Strefa – only marginally less white. Pure and pristine, the swan-like elegance of the interior whispers dignity and decorum.

Immaculate and refined, it’s a soothing atelier with a rarefied air. Mostly though, it’s the food that people talk about. Citing Nordic cuisine as his primary influence, the chef has honed a menu of note which, on our November visit, included a deep and soothing mushroom soup that brought to mind Poland’s dark autumn forest. The tastes are clear and true and say much for a chef that has his brain switched on. (C3) ul. Próżna 9, tel. 22 255 0850, restauracjastrefa.pl Supperlardo Run as a side project by Mąka i Woda (quite literally – it’s right next door), it’s a stylish-looking spot that’s fresh, contemporary and even a little edgy: for evidence, refer to a mural designed by Swansky, a local big gun on the street art scene. As for the menu, that’s a riotously meaty romp that involves wood-fired hams, sandwiches composed of pork belly pastrami and salt-cured meats from Puławska and Mangalica pigs. With orders taken at the counter, it’s a place that lifts the canteen concept to new, unseen heights. (D4) ul. Chmielna 13A, fb.com/ Supperlardo Warszawski Sznyt Warsaw’s historic center is rightly glorified for many reasons – its restaurants, however, are not one of them. In fact, there’s probably nowhere in the city with a higher concentration of sub-par efforts. Aiming to redress the balance are Sznyt, an ambitious venue with swank interiors overlooking the Royal Castle, and a kitchen staff headhunted from blue

EAT! Listings ribbon venues such as Salto and Amaro.

Set over two floors (one focused on Polish cuisine, the other on ‘international’), the pride of the house is afforded to the wood-fired grill. (D2) ul. Senatorska 2, warszawskisznyt.pl White One The changing face of Koszykowa street is almost embodied by White One – where once stood a disintegrating tenement stands a revamped building with a super swanky ground floor restaurant. Ideal for those nights you want to make an impression, interiors are well-spaced, smart and modern but never too intimidating. The pared-down menu is fully reflective of contemporary dining trends: innovations include a 5-course vegan tasting menu, as well as a 7-course menu entirely dependent on the whims of the chef – you won’t know what’s in store till it lands on the table! Full review soon.

(D6) ul. Koszykowa 47, whiteone.pl Winsky Opened in November, Winsky have made a blistering start to life with early points scored for their selection of edgy ‘tap wines’ and menu of small plates – though mainly Polish in spirit, there’s enough international twists and turns to keep things varied. The design, with its deep sofas and riverside views, feels refined and considered – the kind of place you’d impress a first date. (F4) ul. Wioślarska 10

italian Altro Locale Set in a quiet section of Old Mokotów, it’s little wonder the plaudits haven’t ceased.

Owned by chef Andrea Carillo, authentic, homespun tastes vie for attention inside a charming space that’s chic and modern but never spartan. You can tell Carillo has invested his heart and soul in this venture, and the result is an ever-changing menu featuring lamb chops, sirloin, and sea bream done the Italian way – don’t think you’ll be getting any pizza here!

Fittingly, its reputation is now extending beyond the district’s natural border. (E8) ul. Willowa 9 Ave Pizza The argument over who serves Warsaw’s

best pizza goes right to the wire, but there’s no doubting that Ave Pizza are up there on the leaderboard. Set across a sparse, metropolitan area, this fashionable L-shaped joint comes endorsed by the capital’s notoriously picky Italian community. Order the pillowy calzone and you’ll soon learn why. (E3) ul. Topiel 12, tel.

22 828 8507, avepizza.pl Dziurka od Klucza An enchanting locale in which enigmatic, lavender-painted doors sit embedded into the walls, as if waiting to be magically opened by the mysterious keys that hang from the numerous interior details. Set with empty picture frames and cotton ball lights, interiors just don’t get any cuter. As for food, the concise, daily-changing menu is centered around homemade pasta – pride of place is given to the black colored pasta served with seafood. (E3) ul. Radna 13, tel. 500 150 494, dziurkaodklucza.com.pl Focaccia The Insider’s visit went something like this: wrist-thick octopus with an arc of yellow mousse, conversation stopping beef tenderloin alongside a glistening pool of madeira sauce and then an orange ice cream with caramel and ginger that soon merged into a big gooey brew of chocolatey mess. The only surprise is there’s no Italian in the kitchen – it appears they don’t need one. This is seriously talented cooking inside an interior that fresh and light and reflective of the food. (D2) ul. Senatorska 13/15, tel. 22 829 6969, focaccia.pl Mąka i Woda Purists applaud an approach that uses a custom-made oven from Naples and imported ingredients such as 00 Caputo flour and DOP certified San Marzano tomatoes. Scrupulously authentic, it’s no wonder that it’s packed to the gunnels every night of the week – even their Facebook page warns of 20-minute waiting times for a table alone. (D4) ul.

Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 91 87 Otto Pompieri If you judge pizzerias on choice then Otto Pompieri’s modest count of eleven pizzas doesn’t promise much – but then it arrives. At zł. 21 for 42 centimeters, the margherita offers the best value per sq/cm than anything out here, while the warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings artichoke pizza reveals itself in an orgy of melty virtue. The retro Little Italy look is rounded out by a cooking brigade that engage in banter and bravado while spinning dough in the air: it feels and tastes ideal. (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, fb.com/ otto.pompieri Posypane A casual restaurant with handmade pasta made fresh on the day and a choice that includes ravioli with chorizo and shrimp, bucatini Bolognese with seasoned beef and rosemary, and a creamy mushroom pappardelle. Then, adding to the sense of being somewhere young, fun and a little bit hip, is an edgy design featuring a wall of kitchen implements, hanging ropes and exposed concrete. In an area already rife with niche eateries aimed at the modern day Varsovian, Posypane feels like a satisfying addition. (D5) ul. Hoża 43/49 Prosciutteria Powiśle Buzzing with warmth, here an interior composed of pre-war floor tiles, exposed brickwork, and black and white images of Italian icons sets a casually good mood that’s sustained by the owners. They’re knowledgeable, as well. If Prosciutteria feels good, then it tastes even better.

Based around cold cuts, find heavy wooden boards loaded with imported delicacies from small producers that the couple have befriended: Ubriaco cheese bathed in Prosecco; pork belly fat drycured for six months; salami from Milan and Naples… There’s more, of course, but it all becomes one in this orgy of pleasure.

(F4) ul. Solec 85

japanese Arigator This Japanese-style noodle joint whisks you to the narrow, steamy back alleys of late night Tokyo. Clad in corrugated iron and dark, weathered wooden slats, it’s got that buzzing sense of chaos that feels familiar from the films. And the food, gosh, they get that right as well.

From a tiny menu order up dainty pork dumplings, braised kakuni bacon or deep-fried tofu before hitting up a feisty bowl of ramen emanating life-affirming goodness. A complex tangle of interlacing flavors, it’s the sort of dish you’d happily

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queue up for: and yes, people do. (D6) ul.

Piękna 54 Benihana Fire, flash, show and sizzle: the Benihana experience merges cooking with cabaret with diners sat ringside around teppanyaki grills. These cooking stations are the stage for the Benihana crew to demonstrate their riveting range of nifty knifework and daredevil antics. Outside of the realm of the grill, the sushi also strikes the right note. (C4) ul. Twarda 2/4, benihanapoland.com Fat Buddha Immense in size, there’s a confident feeling of decadent ostentation: with light kept at bay by vast mulberry-colored drapes, what would otherwise appear as an over-sized hall feels intimate and sensual, dark and delicious. Japanese in spirit, the menu pitches a refined selection of exceptional dishes – elaborate dragon rolls; delicate gyoza; and beef tataki that’s lightly seared and thinly sliced. It’s all perfect. (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 2/4 Mizu Rarely does a restaurant meet with such unanimous approval, and while the name of Mizu remains unknown among the majority, those In The Know have been crowing about it for a good couple of years. Irresistible, immaculate and imaginative, this is sushi the likes of which the capital has never seen before – there’s a magic here that makes the knees go wobbly. Touting a modern-minimal look, the off-center location in a former factory since requisitioned by ad agencies adds to the sensation of dining somewhere a little under-the-radar: to eat here is to visit one of Warsaw’s great whispered secrets. ul.

Duchnicka 3, mizusushi.pl Mugi More and more Japanese ventures are proving there is life beyond sushi, and Mugi is one such place. Specializing in ramen noodles and kushiage skewers (battered meat and veg served on a stixk), further bonuses include Choya liqueurs and a fun design that’s not short on Manga graphics. (D5) ul. Wspólna 37/39 Sakana Sushi & Sticks It’s not uncommon to hear the preparation of sushi described as a form of art,

and in Sakana that’s exactly what it is.

Using premium ingredients and unusual combinations, their creations are a vivid blast of color and freshness. (D2) ul.

Moliera 4/6, tel. 22 826 59 58, sakana.pl Sato Gotuje Signposted by its own splash of Mangastyle art adorning the exterior wall, this Commie era pavilion feels small and squashed and assembled on a budget.

Who cares? No-one. An exciting departure from the norm – no sushi here – the menu is a selection of bitey Japanese street food such as grilled mackerel fillet with shavings of grated radish. Prices and quality ensure you don’t stop until you’ve gobbled your way through much of the menu. ul. Pawińskiego 24 Shoku Most places that claim to serve fusion do so because of an identity crisis. At Shoku, though, the mix and match approach when it comes to Asia (if it’s tasty, stick it on the menu!) feels rational and put together. Never short of custom, locals gather inside a bright, contemporary space to slurp down bowls of ramen, share shoku bowls or click chopsticks over small plates of dim sum and wonton. Come summer, the scene ramps up a notch with diners flocking to a prim garden area that’s billiard green in color.

(A4) ul. Karolkowa 30, shoku.pl Tomo While many of Warsaw’s other sushi stops gather cobwebs Tomo packs out each night – that should say enough. With the maki, sushi and sashimi bobbing past on wooden platters, this place aims for fast, maximum turnover without ever making the diner feel second best. (D5) ul.

Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2344, tomo.pl Uki Uki How much do the locals appreciate Warsaw’s original udon bar? Enough to queue outside the door? That’s right.

Dining is a close quarters experience here, but is done so without complaint: that electric pasta maker turns out noodles of such chewy goodness that everyone leaves beaming. (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, tel. 728 827 705, ukiuki.pl Wabu Sushi becomes a heaven’s gate spiritual

EAT! Listings experience in Wabu with the evening passing in a blur of beautiful compositions, of silky slithers of fish crowned with expert pinches of this, and little brush strokes of that. That’s all elevated even further by deliciously upscale interiors befitting of the Spire location. (A4) Pl. Europejski 2 (Warsaw Spire), wabu.pl Yatta Ramen Scruffy, frayed and busy, Yatta is the living embodiment of the street food vibe. The ideal outlet for such an outlet, step inside a rackety interior to join other hip creatures Instagramming the only jiro ramen to be found in Warsaw. Once you’re done doing that, kick back to slurp over big, steamy bowl of spicy miso ramen. Already crazy popular, the onset of Warsaw’s annual winter chill looks set to give their takings another extra boost.

(E3) ul. Bartoszewicza 3, fb.com/YattaBowl

korean The Cool Cat Proving something other than just a faddish flash in the fire, The Cool Cat has caught the zeitgeist by the horns and come to represent the hip Powiśle style; casual and convivial and absent of aloofness, it’s a place in which all life seems to gather for a taste of good times.

Refusing to take themselves too seriously, the angle is fun and forward-thinking, something that’s evidenced by way of an occasionally wacky menu of Americanized Asian food: the K-Fries (a big messy mass of kimchi, chips, bulgogi beef) are spot on. (F4) ul. Solec 38, tel. 787 698 700 The Cool Cat TR A hip venue that offsets all the concrete colors with flashes of contemporary art and waterfalls of greenery that tumble over the windows. The overt hipness is reflected by a crowd that’s heavy on tattoos, piercings and odd urban style: you know you’re somewhere cool. Food, that’s a playful spin on Korean cuisine and includes chicken wings in hot gochochung sauce or more-ish soft-shell tacos with bulgogi sauce and water greens. Blips aren’t unknown, but the missteps tend to be forgiven: you can’t help but love what they’re trying to do.

(D6) ul. Marszałkowska 8

Koreanka A courtyard cubbyhole that’s scuffed, informal and fashionably ramshackle.

Such has been the stir created by it, diners arrive in the knowledge that they’ll be scavenging a table and eating what little might be leftover from another sell-out day. Yet here’s the point of contention: is it really all that’s cracked up? The kimchi is exemplary, but not everything works so well. Though raved about by Warsaw’s Instagrammers, we were left disenchanted by the shallow, empty tastes of the bulgogi. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 59 KoreaTown Rest Here, the ubiquitous KFC (Korean fried chicken) is all crunch and crackle and the bulgogi tender, juicy and the right side of sweet; accompanying them, an assortment of bitey dishes heaving with chilli flecked kimchi, daikon radish and pickled bits and bobs. All very good, but nothing compared to the bossam, braised pork belly scooped up by hand inside glistening perilla leaves: it’s a dish that soothes, gratifies and leaves diners looking every bit as pleased as the pipe-smoking tiger that gazes from the wall. (E9) ul. Olesińska 2, fb.com/KoreaTownRest Miss Kimchi Cheap and cheerful Korean street food served in a small, steamy space that’s frequently packed to the rafters. Box sets come piled high with meat, rice and veg.

The spotlight falls on the bibimbap, a satisfying mess of shredded veg, lively spices, a fried egg and beef bulgogi. This is replenishment in its truest form. (B4) ul. Żelazna 58/62, tel. 570 186 066 Onggi Positive transformations aren’t confined to Ramsay’s Kitchen Nightmares: after a dreadful start characterized by bland, claggy dishes, this Korean restaurant has spun a U-turn that’s left the competition reeling. The menu is daunting in size, but contains wildly interesting finds such as a streaky bacon stir fry, spicy pickled Daikon radish and lotus root simmered in soy sauce. (D2) ul. Moliera 2 Powidoki Set in the cool white cube that is the Museum of Modern Art, you’d think that Powidoki’s riverfront location would make it a highly seasonal destination. Not so.

UL. PRÓŻNA 10 TEL: 577 607 775 restauracjasanthai.pl warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings Though the menu’s brief and the background highly casual, the Korean choices feel more sophisticated and complex than anywhere else, a point that serves to keep business brisk. Served in a turmeric tomato sauce, the pork dumplings are an almost compulsory order. (E2) ul.

Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 22 Sora Maybe it’s not the best, but it’s certainly the best-known Korean restaurant in town. The tabletop BBQ sets are an essential order and ideal for the shared bonding experience. It all tastes even better with copious quantities of Makkoli wine. (A4) ul.

Wronia 45 Yache Korea Though primarily known as the capital of Warsaw’s craft beer scene, Nowogrodzka is beginning to demonstrate that she’s more than just a one-trick pony.

Helping the food angle is this newbie, a steamy little venue that’s all clatter and commotion. Design barely goes beyond a wall of potted plants, but with a place of this size all you need is four people and presto, you’ve got an atmosphere. On the food front, the crispy chicken embraces the seoul (ha!) like comfort food at its best, and the bulgogi the best we’ve had this year – not bad going seeing there’s not a Korean in the kitchen. (D5) ul.

Nowogrodzka 25

latin & spanish

Ceviche Bar With chef Martin Gimenez Castro injecting his passion and personality into the venue, this is an address that punches through the greyness of everyday Warsaw. Ceviche – raw fish marinated in citrus juices and cilantro – is the default order, with the Atun one of the best sellers: chunks of tuna given a rich zing with the addition of chili, lime and roasted coriander. The Japanese influence on South America’s dining habits isn’t forgotten either, with must-haves including the the

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salmon tiraditos: served with teriyaki and sweet potato mash, it’s a joy of satisfying sensations: sweet, dreamy, spicy, creamy.

(C4) ul. Twarda 4, cevichebar.pl Tapas Gastrobar The popular practice is to order so many plates and bottles that the table becomes a Magic Eye of kaleidoscope patterns.

A great place for sharing and general interaction, the ambiance and quality belies the corporate anonymity of the location. Though the gazapcho is first class it’s bettered by the patatas bravos: fried potatoes in a ballsy tomato sauce.

(A4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 251 1310, tapasbar.pl Restaurante Bunuel Spanish-owned Bunuel has left many in raptures. Simple interiors focus attention on the food, which in this case involves a crisp gazpacho that gets you missing summer, and grilled meats that leave many in a swoon. (H4) ul. Walecznych 61, tel. 798 659 554, bunuel-restauracja.com

mexican Dos Tacos Who doesn’t like asking for something that’s ‘under the counter’. In the case of Dos Tacos, doing so means inquiring about their range of ‘salsa clandestinas’: extra hot sauces designed for reckless thrill-seekers. But the true secret weapon at Dos Tacos is Isabel Balderas, a Mexican chef that has mastered the bright, bold tastes of her native country.

This cuisine has enjoyed a breakout year in Warsaw, but while the millennials clamor over new food trucks and funky little start-ups, Dos Tacos is a timely reminder that the old guard sometimes know best. (D4) ul. Jasna 22, tel. 22 243 4618, dostacos.pl Gringo Bar A Mexican wave is upon us, and high time too. After years of suffering frozen ingredients, timid flavors and daft Mariachi music to persuade us it’s all authentic, a raft of new cut-price eateries are showing the rest how it’s done.

Cooked and folded by fist bumping lads in back-to-front caps and baggy t-shirts, the food at Gringo is fiery, fresh and full

of zing. There are detractors who claim this is a Polonized version of this cuisine, but the informal Gringo remains one of the market leaders. (E9) ul. Odolańska 15, tel. 22 848 9523, gringobar.pl La Sirena You don’t even have to think twice when asked to name the best Mexican in the capital. Inspired by the ultra-violent films of Danny Trejo, the hardcore interior heaves with machetes, holy shrines, skulls and wire mesh; but if La Sirena looks fab, it tastes even better. Introducing a new dimension to Warsaw’s parched Mexican landscape, highlights inc. poblano peppers stuffed with pork/ beef, peach, apple and apricots, as well as a ‘near death’ salsa that’s finally living up to its name. (D5) ul. Piękna 54 Rico Muranów needs all the restaurants it can get, so the opening of Rico is long overdue. Spread on two floors, it’s got a design you’d describe as ‘jolly’ with plenty of bright sunny colors and cartoonish murals of chilis and vihuelas: basic, bright but also confident and fun. The menu feels like a 90’s-style, ABC choice of standard Tex-Mex, but the burritos are delicious, the cocktails strong and the staff super-friendly. We like it! (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 61 Spoco Loco It begins with a bead of sweat. Then a couple of tears. Then the real pain starts and doesn’t retract until you’ve rolled on the floor and died for twenty minutes. Spoco Loco’s No. 7 sauce is no laughing matter and should be treated with respect. But this tiny eatery (it’s essentially one bench) is not founded on gimmicks. The burritos and quesadillas are decent in the comfort food kind of way, and ably supported by a choice of milder sauces that don’t require Red Cross treatment. (H4) ul. Francuska 8, spocoloco.pl Urban Burritos Super casual in style, this crowded little haunt fills with embassy workers from the US Embassy, a ringing endorsement if ever there were. Offering fillings of pork, beef, chicken and Portobello mushrooms, well-constructed wraps come served with salsas that sing with

EAT! Listings gusto. (D6) ul. Piękna 22, urbanburritos.pl

middle eastern

Le Cedre With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoalgrilled lamb chops. (E1) Al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166, lecedre.pl

Le Cedre 84 Le Cedre just keep on getting it right.

Authenticity is key in this chainlette (well, there’s another across the river), as you’ll discover when talking to Tony, the Lebanese owner. To see the diversity of this cuisine, order the balbaak (six cold starters) or the byblos (six hot).

And food aside, it’s the atmosphere that carries them that extra yard: the whole philosophy of this cuisine is to share and share alike, making it a uniquely engaging experience when dining with friends.

(B3) Al. Solidarności 84, tel. 22 618 8999, lecedre.pl

Le Cedre Lounge Furnished in voluptuous Middle Eastern style, the latest subsidiary of the Le Cedre empire bursts with fancy sheesha pipes, extravagant rugs and shimmery satin drapes. It’s a look that’s fun, familiar, intimate and warm. Less encyclopedic than that of its two sister ventures, Le Cedre Lounge has a slimmer menu that introduces several new tastes to fans of Lebanese cuisine. Helplessly more-ish, it’s food that’s in line with the vibey atmosphere and casual air. (C4) ul.

Grzybowska 5A, lecedre.pl

Maghreb Featuring the casual air of good times, head to Maghreb for vibrant Moroccan classics such as merguez sausages and tajine dishes served in traditional earthenware vessels. With the first chills of winter lapping at the door, it’s a restaurant that provides solace and reassurance. ul.

Burakowska 9, maghreb.pl Shuk Located behind Hala Banacha in this gradually blooming district of Warsaw, SHUK’s certainly worth the tram ride if you’re not a native Ochotian. An offshoot of the acclaimed Mezze, highlights on our visit included a well-seasoned Arabic soup with lentils and spinach followed by a skillet of fried oyster mushrooms cooked with onions and served alongside harissa topped with rose petals. You’re looking at quite a special place that realigns your mojo on an ashen Warsaw day. ul. Grójecka 127 Sokotra Casting a warm, steamy glow over this corner of Wilcza, Sokotra is a welldesigned nook with a rough, urban edge: telegraph poles, bare bulbs and exposed lumps of concrete. Yemeni dishes are available though it’s the Indian food that shines – the Madras is intense, pungent and suitably fiery. (D5) ul. Wilcza 27, tel. 22 270 2766, sokotra.pl Tagine Having already scored considerable successes with Miss Kimchi and KoreaTown Rest, the same owners have spread their wings to cover a new cuisine that, so far, has been under-represented in the Polish capital: Moroccan! Specializing in traditional recipes served in tagine clay pots inside a casual interior dolled up with jam jar lights and bright, light colors. (E3) ul. Oboźna 9 Tahina Small and lively, it’s a spot that brings together authentic Middle Eastern tastes with no quarter given: beef, for instance, is marinated for two days before being slow-cooked for 36-hours. Served in a featherlight lavash, there are those that would call this a kebab, but doing so would severely undersell the goodness in your hand. Demonstrating a fiendish attention to detail, Tahina is nothing if not warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings characterized by its scrupulous specifics: look out for Iraqi-style scrambled eggs with dates, not to mention generous tahini bowls cascading with juicy chunks of chicken, and traditional coffee heated in a pan of sand. (C5) ul. Wilcza 26, fb.com/ TahinaWilcza

polish Bazyliszek Some parts of Bazyliszek hark to its years as a stately, stuffy restaurant. Now though it’s more earthy, with Jurassic portions of meaty, lardy food best consumed with one-liter beers. The Rynek location and festive atmosphere account for its popularity more than anything that comes from the kitchen. (D1) Rynek Starego Miasto 1/3, tel. 22 831 1841, bazyliszek. waw.pl Bar Gdański A refit has seen the plastic plants, putrid smells and that slow feeling of death replaced by a fresher look in keeping with the times. Despite this, the historic core of this milk bar has been retained including the daffodil colors and original floor tiles. How’s the food? Cheap. That’s probably the kindest thing you can say about it. Despite that, Gdański feels like an essential part of the community. (B1) ul.

Andersa 33, fb.com/bargdanskimuranow Belvedere Łazienki Królewskie Set in an imperial age glass orangery, it’s festooned with intricate latticework and botanical exotica. The updated interiors are the work of acclaimed set designer Boris Kudlicka, and lend a fresh, contemporary tone that goes hand in hand with the menu. But behind the gels and emulsions and pretty little swirls, this is cooking of substantial depth; it’s cooking that takes you to the very soul of Polish nature. (F8) ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. 22 558 6701, belvedere.com.pl Bez Gwiazdek BEST WAWA 2017 “Modern Polish” BEST WAWA 2017 “Chef” While Bez Gwiazdek rejects the core principles of fine dining, don’t for one minute expect anything less than food that whispers refined sophistication.

Focusing each month on a different region

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of the country, Robert Trzópek’s tasting menu takes diners to the very heart of the Polish soul and does so via tastes that betray his fine dining background: delicate and precise, it’s the polar opposite of the standard Polski feast.

Just when you thought you had worked out the nation’s cuisine, along comes Robert Trzópek to rewrite the rules. (E3) ul. Wiślana 8, bezgwiazdek.com.pl Bistro Pod Sowami Talk of Praga’s revival feels a bit more serious now that Bistro Pod Sowami has opened. From the outside, this corner tenement is a study in neo-gothic indulgence. On the inside, the muted elegance is perfectly partnered by the cooking of Damian Wajda. His cooking presents pre-war dishes as seen through a colorful, modern lens. (F1) ul.

Okrzei 26, fb.com/bistropodsowami Ćma by Mateusz Gessler Open round-the-clock, Ćma has rescued the city’s night owls from the evil clutches of the center’s grisly kebab dens. Set against an edgy, moth-themed interior designed by guerilla artist Tomasz Górnicki, this on-trend nightspot elevates late night dining to new heights with a menu that involves modernized Polish delicacies such as sausage with horseradish emulsion, black pudding with apple and… goose stomachs. (D6) ul.

Koszykowa 63, mateuszgessler.com.pl Czerwony Wieprz An amusing restaurant that looks back at communism through a rose-tinted lens. Under the glowering gaze of commie tyrants, staff dressed like obedient members of the party’s Youth League deliver hefty dishes from a cheeky menu that is in itself a collector’s item. (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 22 850 3144, czerwonywieprz.pl Delicja Polska Looking stately (pink bows, gilt touches and immaculate linen) but never stuffy, Delicja have a modern Polish menu that includes sous-vide salmon marinated in beetroot leaves, then topped with horseradish foam and dill emulsion. Brilliant.

But then so was everything else we tried, including the exquisite seasoned roast beef. (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 64, tel. 22 826 4770, delicjapolska.pl

Dom Polski Almost like it was designed for the manor born, Dom Polski has the rarefied atmosphere of a country retreat: bow-tied staff who click their heels, decorative antiques and a menu that’s a sumptuous anthology of posh Polish cooking. When you need to give visitors a sense of classic Warsaw, Dom Polski is the first out of the hat. (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 2432, restauracjadompolski.pl Dom Polski Belwederska Accessed via curling pathways and bursting shrubs this restaurant conjures images of an aristocrat’s manor. The air of privilege matches a menu that’s rich in fanciful classics such as their signature goose. Elegant and exquisite, consider it your default choice for a taste of true Poland. (F8) ul. Belwederska 18A, tel. 22 840 5060, restauracjadompolski.pl Elixir by Dom Wódki There are some who call the food here 'deconstructed Polish'. In actuality, 'reconstructed' would be closer to the mark. The chef has taken local classics and redrafted the recipes with the swoosh of a contemporary pen. The outcome is a pleasure from start to finish: a life affirming żurek, a tartar that could fulfill ambassadorial duties for Poland, and a handsome beef tenderloin sprinkled with crispy potato shavings.

Thoughtful pairings with lesser-known, boutique vodkas add another dimension that serves to complete this pleasing, patriotic adventure. (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl Folk Gospoda If you missed the last train to Zakopane, then a night in Folk Gospoda is the next best thing. Kitted out like a typical tavern in the Tatras, it’s a good-humored celebration of mountain-slope traditions: heaps of meat and lard with plenty of vodka and song in between. (B3) ul.

Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605, folkgospoda.pl Gospoda Kwiaty Polskie Bursting with flowers and rural touches, entering Gospoda isn’t unlike clambering inside an old granny’s attic. Cheerful in look and style, the rustic energy extends to enthusiastic portions of Polish classics.

(D1) ul. Wąski Dunaj 4/6/8, gospodakwiatypolskie.pl

EAT! Listings Kieliszki na Próżnej You’ll find Kieliszki na Próżnej, the latest restaurant to mark the rehabilitation of Próżna, so named after the 1,116 wineglasses that hang tantalizingly over the bar. As an anchor feature the suspended glassware is arresting and equaled only by a long stretch of wall art doodled by Mariusz Tarkawian. The food matches up to the interiors, with a modern Polish menu that – on our visit – involved a thick, brilliantly spreadable foie gras pate, a thick slab of brawn and a delicate piece of moist Baltic cod. It’s pure seasonal comfort. (C3) ul. Próżna 12, tel. 501 764 674, kieliszkinaproznej.pl Klub Spatif Tip tap through the dark chambers into a bright dining room decorated with eggshell lights and vibrant greenery; from the photos on the walls, famous past guests smile down in approval. Though better known as a bar-club crossover, in daylight hours find a surprisingly

brilliant menu featuring modern Polish tastes: tender piglet cheeks with curried sauerkraut, coconut milk and cilantro; marinated salmon with beetroot; and a vegan tartar made with tomatoes and black olives. It is, quite simply, a glorious hymn to natural tastes. (E5) Al. Ujazdowskie 45, klubspatif.pl

cocktails’, either. (F4) ul. Solec 44, fb.com/ las.warszawa

LAS This rail-side communist pavilion has been transformed courtesy of a thorough makeover featuring a jungle of plants, low, muted lighting and the addition of smart charcoal colors and revamped retro fittings. As for food, then familiarize yourself with Anna Klajmon. Having made her bones at Grunt i Woda, her farm-to-fork philosophy has followed her here. Cooking with an air of freedom, there’s a natural goodness to her menu that belies the modest pricing.

Highly seasonal, on our visit that meant gorgeous oxtail pierogi with peanut butter and hazelnut sauce. Don’t mix the ‘local

Polana Smaków Looking warm and woodsy, this super restaurant has lost none of its appeal since making its Christmas move from Mokotów to the center. Emerging to become a major figure on the national restaurant scene thanks to their skilled interpretation of seasonal tastes and regional produce, expect full satisfaction from a menu that presents rejigged versions of Polish heroes such as herring or dumplings. Full review soon. (C5) ul. E. Plater 14, polanasmakow.pl Podwale Piwna Kompania Prowling mountain bands generate a beer hall atmosphere, while the courtyard garden – designed to replicate a Mitteleuropa square – is one of the best you’ll find. But the obscene portions can’t mask what is pretty poor food. Go there for the experience, if nothing else. (D2) ul.

Flavours of Warsaw - traditional Polish cuisine with a distinctive modern touch. Everything is made from fresh seasonal ingredients.

Enjoy, among many others, beef tartare with lovage mayonnaise, white truffle powder and marinated wild mushrooms.

Or try our mouth watering Dumplings stuffed with veal and marinated squash in red lingonberry sauce.

Or perhaps you have a taste for duck breast with squash purée and a French potato in a dill emulsion. To finish off delight in our home made pastries.

Restaurant and Pastry 48 22 621 82 68 Żurawia str. 47/48 Warsaw Pastry and Cafe 48 608 046 406 Felińskiego str. 52 Warsaw www.smakiwarszawy.com

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Traditional Polish Cuisine,

Ĺťurek

(traditional sour rye soup)

Golonka

(roast pork knuckle)

Placki Ziemniaczane

(potato pancake with gulash)

We serve Polish dishes on hot pans and sizzling cast iron and are winners of many culinary competitions Hand making our own pierogi since 1913 Pierogi Truskawkowe Strawberry dumplings

but don’t miss the pierogi OUR LOCATIONS IN WARSAW U L . K R A KO W S K I E P R Z E D M I E Ś C I E 5 5 | T E L . 2 2 6 9 2 7 2 0 4 U L . N O W Y Ś W I AT 6 4 | T E L . 2 2 6 9 2 4 1 3 5 AL. JEROZOLIMSKIE 28 | TEL. 22 826 7484 U L . F R E TA 1 | T E L . 2 2 8 3 1 6 1 9 0 UL. ŚWIĘTOJAŃSKA 13 | TEL. 22 635 6109 U L . F R E TA 1 8 | T E L . 2 2 6 3 5 7 9 5 9

EAT! Listings Podwale 25, tel. 22 635 6314, podwale25.pl Restauracja Polska “Różana” The rarified atmosphere of Różana is a pleasure indeed. Close to the frontline of Mokotów / Śródmieście, you’d never guess the proximity of the center. Seated in their garden, one feels removed from the city – a fountain burbles quietly in the background, starlings hop around the trees. From the inside, one hears the distant tinkle of the house pianist. Just being here is a thrill in itself, and the food is a Polish dining extravaganza served from the top table: farmhouse duck, saddle of venison, etc. (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 22 848 1225, restauracjarozana.com.pl Schabowy Red gingham tablecloths are just about the only decorative element in this plain Jane restaurant; aesthetics don’t figure highly, and that much is clear through an approach to plating presentation that’s best described as basic. But boy, they can cook – simple but delicious, the food here is Polish home cooking at its best: great ingredients used to even greater effect.

As the name suggests, schabowy is the star, and here you’ll find it served in three different forms. ul. Obrzeżna 1, fb.com/ schabowy.warszawa

Start the New Year by rediscovering Lebanese Cuisine

Stary Dom A classic restaurant in style and history: back in the day it was a favorite haunt of jockeys and race goers from the horse track nearby. Pre-war recipes form the basis of the menu, with the team using seasonal produce and the latest technology to bring out its best. ul. Puławska 104/106, tel. 22 646 4208, restauracjastarydom.pl

Le Cedre Lounge Grzybowska 5A Tel 22 299 7299

such as venison marinated in bison grass vodka. (D1) ul. Szeroki Dunaj 1/3, restauracjastolica.com Talerzyki It sounds a little absurd, but Talerzyki manage the implausible by Polonizing the concept of tapas and coming up trumps. Fiercely Polish in spirit, the menu looks to revive the essence of inter-war Warsaw with its selection of classic recipes presented in scaled-down form: blood pudding with apple and cinnamon; beef tongue and horseradish; and white sausage with fermented flour sauce. It sounds glum and gory but its anything but – and the style mavens of Mokotowska appear to agree. (D6) ul.

Mokotowska 33/35 U Szwejka Named after the fictional Czech soldier Szwejk, the food here would certainly appeal to the tubby man himself. Served in an interior bestowed with Prague street signs, the food is a hardy, meaty affair, and arrives in XXXL portions. The price to quantity ratio guarantees queues (yes, queues) that stretch out on the street every weekend – but you have to wonder why. (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1710, uszwejka.pl Warszawski Sen By Mateusz Gessler A quite stunning restaurant dominated by dark geometric patterns and the installations and ideas of guerilla artist Tomasz Górnicki. Once you’ve caught your breath and snapped off a few pics for your Instagram, settle in for a menu that gives Polish ingredients a highly contemporary treatment. If you thought Hala Koszyki was buzzing, then this edgy space is perhaps its biggest buzz of all. ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki), mateuszgessler.com.pl

Le Cedre 61

(opposite the zoo) Al. Solidarności 61, Praga Tel 22 670 1166

Le Cedre 84

(opposite the court) Al. Solidarności 84 Tel 22 618 8999

www.lecedre.pl

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Stolica Set in one of Old Town’s smaller, lesser-known squares, Stolica charms with its pre-war, slightly formal ambiance: pristine white tablecloths and spotless mirrors combine with classic Warsaw tunes to generate a storybook atmosphere straight from the pages of Tuwim and Gombrowicz. Food-wise, you’re looking at typically local dishes

Zapiecek Seven Warsaw locales, with our favorite found in the vaulted passages of Świętojańska. The menu is highly traditional, with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’. It’s for the pierogi though for which they’re famous; find approx. fifty types delivered by servers dressed like

EAT! Listings saucy country maids. Locations inc. ul.

Nowy Świat 64, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska 13, tel. 22 635 61 09, & ul. Wańkowicza 1, zapiecek.eu Zielony Niedźwiedź A sanctuary of elegant fancy, it’s a place of long, dark shadows and discreet decorative touches: From the outset, you’re made to feel that good things will happen, and this they do. Certified by Poland’s fledgling slow food movement, the menu gives star billing to the suppliers that keep the pantry full; but the truth is these aren’t the only heroes. Taking the reins in June, new chef Oliwia Bernady has grown in stature and skill preparing a daily tinkered menu that opens your eyes to the real tastes of Poland. (E4) ul. Smolna 4, tel. 795 794 784, kafezn.pl Zoni Housed in a former vodka distillery, the immense interior reveals cast iron kilns, flooring made from recovered vodka barrels and numerous post-industrial pieces that have been lovingly restored.

But the real talking point in Aleksander Baron, a chef nationally known for his devotion to local ingredients and littleknown techniques. We loved the tomato assiette, not to mention a T-bone heavier than an artillery round. Aged in such a way as to allow aspergillus mushrooms to grow into the meat, it’s a glorious piece of cooking that makes the heart roar. And dessert? A chilled sphere of calf brain mousse the incorporates vanilla, brown butter and caramel. There were few better restaurant launches last year. (G1) Pl. Konesera 1, zoni.today.

scandinavian Nabo The décor is, we’re told, typical Danish cafe – bold open windows, simple lines, high shelves filled with books and games on the table. But what is Danish food? There’s Old Danish on the menu: meatballs and open face sandwiches with meat and fish in various textural configurations and then there’s New Danish: an emerging trend towards fresh, seasonal food with locally sourced and innovatively concocted ingredients. ul. Zakręt 8, tel. 22 842 0256, nabocafe.pl

seafood

L’Arc French in style, seafood dominates the menu of L’Arc with the lobster and oysters a particular standout. Enjoy it inside a classic interior that feels assuredly upscale. (E8) ul. Puławska 16, larc.pl Lokal na Rybę Open just three days a week, the limited hours have created a supply / demand situation which sees this basic-looking venue often packed out. The menu is revised on a weekly basis though never really goes beyond three starters and a couple of mains – but that’s all they need to captivate the public. In recent times, octopus goulash and smoked herring pierogi have played distinctive roles. (D9) ul. Kwiatowa 1/3/4, fb.com/lokalnarybe U Rysia Devoid of frills bar a glowing neon sign and a brooding mural of Jesus, it looks like a Polish fish restaurant should – basic but with an undercurrent of bustle that keeps the mood bright. It tastes like the real thing as well. Sourcing their catch from the freshwater lakes of northern Poland, the offer is divided into fish that have been smoked, steamed, fried or baked. Check out the perch ‘chips’ fried in batter. (C4) ul. Marszałkowska 140 (enter from ul. Rysia), urysia.com.pl

‘Simplicity, elegance and atmosphere’

Cafe • Wine Bar • Restaurant • Whisky Bar • Wine Cellar ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 515 037 001 www.hoza.warszawa.pl www.facebook.com/hoza25 Open 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-21:00

specialty food shops Bazar Olkuska Once a sad little side street, Olkuska has evolved to become just about the worst kept secret in Warsaw. Home to the city’s top eco-market, trips here end with shopping bags filled with French cheeses, Italian hams, Hungarian sausages and fresh fruit and veg. (E10) ul. Olkuska 12 Befsztyk The Prokopowicz family has come a long warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings way since launching Befsztyk in 1994.

Top restaurants, celebs and ex-pats are listed as clients, and all agree that this operation is indisputably ‘top of the chops’. Find steaks seasoned for three weeks, gluten-free smoked meats, Merino lamb, BBQ kits and so much more. Home delivery, internet ordering and Englishspeaking staff round out this legend. many locations, befsztyk.pl BioBazar With its previous home in Wola undergoing a substantial redevelopment, the BioBazar has moved to Mokotów. At the forefront of Poland’s food revolution, it’s a place that shines a light on ecologically certified goods and produce. Fresh fish, cheese, eggs, bread, cured sausages, honey... on it goes. Comprehensive in its pitch, everything you need to pursue a bright, happy life is here on this spot. ul. Wołoska 3, biobazar.com.pl (B4) ul. Żelazna 51/53, biobazar.org.pl British Shop British food and beverages including cider, beverages, bacon, sausages, gluten free ready meals, sweets and confectionary, etc. Run by the same team who once operated Fish & Chips on Koszykowa, the offer has now expanded to cover nonfood items like Royal Wedding souvenirs, England football paraphernalia, and other little bits of the United Kingdom. (C5) ul.

Emilii Plater 8, tel. 692 240 804

The Crazy Butcher Grzegorz Kwapniewski, better known as ‘Warsaw’s celebrity butcher’, has a new store in town, that being a corner unit in Hala Koszyki. Named by chefs across town as their principal source of meat, Kwapniewski’s offer includes Polish Red Angus, long-seasoned, marbled beef, not to mention veal, lamb, poultry and cured meats from small scale producers. ul.

Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki) Dobrze Co-op The Dobrze Food Co-op aims to ‘widen access to healthy, seasonal food’ while also supporting sustainable agriculture.

Founded in summer, 2014, the project collaborates with over 20 farms and local businesses and sells fresh vegetables and fruit alongside cereals, dried goods and other bits and pieces. ul. Wilcza 29A & ul. Andersa 27, dobrze.waw.pl Forteca Kregliccy Spot the stars of Warsaw’s restaurant scene perusing the stalls at this weekly farmers’ market. Held each Wednesday, look for Pan Ziółko, Poland’s first celebrity farmer (!), Portobello’s from the country’s only organic mushroom farm and the magical yogurts from Mleczna Droga Manufaktura Serów. ul. Zakroczymska 12, kregliccy.eu/forteca Hala Gwardii Taking its cue from the market places of

Lisbon and Marseilles, Hala Gwardii aims to reprise its former pre-war role as the city’s best-known food market. Designed to complement rather than compete with Hala Mirowska outside, the market is a sensory big bang with dozens of stalls specializing in everything from cheese and sausages, to rolled Thai ice cream and posh pet supplies. (C3) Pl. Mirowska 2, fb.com/halagwardii Kosher Shop Snuck to the side of the synagogue, stock up on Kosher produce from the friendly store, before hitting up the falafel tent outside for, aside from the obvious, kosher ice cream. (C4) ul. Twarda 6 Kram A supermarket worth your time. Putting small scale producers to the fore, find veggies courtesy of the Majlert farm and grocer Pan Ziołko, daily deliveries from the Mąka i Woda bakery, dairy courtesy of Mleczna Droga, and several cult Polish brands such as Concept Stu Mostów. Craft beers, bio wines, and softs from the likes of Fentimans and Galvanina complete the quite extraordinary lineup. ul. Duchnicka 3, facebook.com/kram.nativeingredients Kuchnie Świata The first stop for most ex-pats, with an offer that includes food and drinks from across the globe. The choice is vast but mainly involves tinned and packaged products. Internet ordering now also available. Various locations, kuchnieswiata. com.pl Ostra Kuchnia A superb internet shop retailing quite literally the hottest sauces known to man: brands include Blair’s, Dave’s, El Yucateco, Mad Dog, Melinda’s and many more besides. Also sell jalapenos, chili peppers, salsas and pastes. Polish-only website, but easy to navigate and superb customer service. ostrakuchnia.pl

steak houses Beef n’ Pepper Beef N’ Pepper presents itself in a buzzy urban flash of violet blue lighting,

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EAT! Listings slick banquette seating and open kitchen action. Straight away, you get the feeling of being in a place that’s alive and active, a feeling that’s affirmed by a busy backlit bar from behind which black-shirted staff fling sunny cocktails for the after-work crowd. Of course, it’s the food angle that takes precedence, and at Beef N’ Pepper that translates to a decent choice of surf’n’turf. Highlights include thumping T-bones and a 60-day aged Argentinean top loin. (C5) ul. Nowogrodzka 47A, tel. 785 025 025, beefandpepper.pl Butchery & Wine The Sarf London-born Bertha oven has revolutionized the way steak is cooked, retaining moisture in a way no-one thought possible. Expect robust pieces of animal full of big, brawny tastes, but there’s so much more than just meat: starters involve a sea bass ceviche that pings with citrusy flavor not to mention more-ish pork crackling that pop like fire bangers in the mouth. A place of

energy and ambition, it’s a great mix of both new and classic. Bookings advised.

(D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 502 3118, butcheryandwine.pl Ed Red Warszawa You can tell they’re serious about their meat just by looking at the starters: big, juicy marrow bones, mountain oysters, blood sausage and calf’s brain.

The steaks are the calling card though, and here you’ll find them dry aged and consumed with the aid of hunting knives. The desserts seem a lumpy afterthought, but they get enough right elsewhere (even decent craft beer at the bar) to keep that little more than a mild annoyance. (B3) Pl. Mirowski 1, edred.pl Evil Steakhouse Already successfully established in Poznań and Szceczin, Evil look to break the recent capital city trend towards higher class steakhouses by introducing a more casual approach to the dining

process. In this case, though, casual does not mean inferior: expect dinosaur portions of steak and ribs delivered straight from the grill inside a laidback, straightforward space that’s gone for a rough-industrial look. (D4) ul. Świętokrzyska 3 Hoża Wine and steak: it sounds simple, but Hoża have taken two simple pleasures to another level. It’s an ebullient space with service right out of charm school, and a kitchen team with a real knowledge of cows. A red-blooded affair, the menu is a steak sensation and well paired with a handpicked wine list. (D5) ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 603 778 275, hoza.warszawa.pl Merliniego A classic looking steakhouse that swirls in shadow, brickwork and elegant touches, it’s a place to immerse yourself in an atmosphere that’s all surrepti-

Jana Moliera 4/6 22 826 5958 moliera@sakana.pl www. sakana.pl

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EAT! Listings tious conversation and distant clinking glasses. The steaks are out-of-this world, with USDA prime beef from New York’s legendary Ottomanelli & Sons and Scottish beef from London’s Smithfield Market. On our last visit we splurged on the Grade 9+ wagyu ‘kobe’ rib-eye and found ourselves eating the steak of a lifetime. Simply amazing. (E10) ul.

Merlineiego 5, merliniego.pl Prime Cut Aimed at a higher class of customer, this showy steakhouse has shaken up the meat sector since it’s star studded launch at the beginning of summer.

The beautiful, contemporary design is matched by a faultless menu – full report coming soon. (C4) ul. Twarda 18, primecut.pl

street food Hala Gwardii Housed in a red brick hall dating from the Tsarist era, Gwardii opens up as a sensory big bang of smell, taste, sight and sound. Framed by a market on one side, and food units on the other, it’s a catch-all social solution that shines the spotlight on independent vendors offering various cuisines Warsaw ain’t seen before. In terms of tenants, big changes have happened – and continue

to happen. Bye to Keboom, Melt, and countless other editorial faves, hello to the superb Gorilla Coffee. Of the new additions, we’ve been told Ye Ye Mex will be entering anytime soon. (C3) Pl. Mirowska 2, halagwardii.pl Hala Koszyki Nirvana for the aspirational classes, careful surgery has preserved the heritage of this early 20th century marketplace and juxtaposed it against the urban tapestry of modern Warsaw. Appealing to everyone from foodies and families to Instagram scenesters, its success has sparked a nationwide wave of doubles and duplicates. But despite their best efforts, none come close to feeling quite so global. Not ones to stand still, May saw the addition of a narrow indoor avenue towards the back flanked on each side by busy street food stalls. Walking around Koszyki, find all from Korean noodles, Spanish tapas, Mexican burritos, Greek kebabs and so much more. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63, koszyki. com Targ Śniadaniowy You could well argue that it was Targ Śniadaniowy that originally kicked-off Warsaw’s street food revolution. Despite the name (which, if you don’t know, translates to mean The Breakfast Market), it’s more than just a morning feed. Running through the afternoon, this weekend legend is a little bit of everything: park

picnic, food market, music space – you might even find someone to fix your two-wheeler. Various locations, targsniadaniowy.pl

thai Basil & Lime Reports have been hit and miss, with one Insider noting calamitous service and food that was both over and undercooked. Not on our visit, though. Short and to the point, the menu is defined by its clarity, and we enjoyed a phenomenal yellow curry and banana fritters with the right combo of crunch and goo. Beautifully decorated with charcoal colors and punches of lime, the Insider felt good long after visiting. Will you? (E8) ul. Puławska 27, tel. 22 126 1943, basil-lime.pl

San Thai Informal, airy surrounds; fair price points; and a menu that covers enough bases while never becoming overwhelming.

Surprisingly great cocktails add to the impression that this street is taking off as something of a scene. (C3) ul. Próżna 10, restauracjasanthai.pl Silk & Spicy If you don’t benchmark Silk & Spicy against what you’d eat in Asia (and you really shouldn’t), then you might enjoy it. “The curry was on taste-wise,” said our disappointed graphic, “but the cream cheese didn’t work in the sushi and the kmichi-style salad served at the beginning was very pedestrian for such a place.” (D5) ul. Żurawia 16/20, tel. 22 629 7012, silkandspicy.pl Thai Thai A visual feast of ink black colors and shimmering deities this is by far the most formal of Warsaw’s Thai options – and also the best. Peaks include a grilled beef salad full of citrusy twists, lively flavors and vibrant colors, and sundried pork neck that’s all manly crunch and nose-clearing sauce. And then there’s the tuna tartar, a dish zinging with fresh hits of coriander, mint, lime and chili. There’s

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EAT! Listings no point in complimenting the chef, he’s heard it all before. (C2) Pl. Teatralny 3, tel.

601 818 283, thaithai.pl Thaisty The most successful business model pioneered in recent years? That’s the work of Thaisty, a bright, cheerful spot with a ‘street style’ and moderate prices – queues, at times, stretch out the door.

Vivid colors and a busy open kitchen lend the place a happy buzz that lasts through the day, yet despite this many have voiced concerns that Thaisty’s runaway success has come at a cost to the overall quality.

Even so, the BBQ skewers remain a good order. (C2) Pl. Bankowy 4, tel. 730 000 024, thaisty.pl Why Thai A calming, almost holistic interior sets the tone for a meal dominated by the rich and aromatic tastes of Thailand. For a lively, spicy start begin with a mango and cashew salad, before moving forward and onto their celebrated curries. Imported chefs keep the flavors authentic, with the pad Thai being something of a house favorite. (E5) ul. Wiejska 13, tel. 22 625 7698, whythai.pl

ukrainian Kanapa This swish villa is a thoughtful essay in understated elegance: antique and classy, yet with enough eclectic touches to that add that little sense of home. The food fits the backdrop with cooking that feels adventurous in style yet traditional in its taste. The borscht, presented in a huge, hollowed out cabbage, incorporates cooked beetroot, stewed pears and plums, chunks of meat and a wallop of sour cream – these rich and raucous flavors are offset by highly sophisticated alternatives such as blobs of pike caviar and oyster cream on a delicate, crispy fish skin. (E8) ul. Narbutta 10, fb.com/kanapa. restauracja

vegan 30 Koszyków In light of the lavish, local vegan choice,

critics could call the menu at 30 Koszyków a little mundane – hummus peaked three years ago, didn’t it? Yet while the concept might not feel new, the execution does. From a limited set of choices, Koszyków’s fast expanding customer base enjoy a range of kick-ass hummus recipes that have acquired a serious following: the beetroot is highly recommended. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 30, fb.com/30koszykow Edamame Vegan Sushi Sushi without its star ingredient sounds ridiculous, but this vegan sushi joint manages to out-manoeuver its traditional competitors by replacing below-par fish with fresh, vegetarian produce: sugar snap peas, radish, carrots, asparagus, etc. The results are both magical and addictive, and leave you wondering if vegan sushi stands to be Warsaw’s next trend. (D5) ul. Wilcza 11, edamame.pl Eden Housed inside (and outside!) a modernist villa, Eden is by far the most exciting vegan launch for some time. Eat in a secluded courtyard garden complete with its own greenhouse, or indoors in a super cool space that feels arty and avant garde but also laidback and homey.

Handled by Michał Gniłka (he’s cooked for Keanu Reeves!), the food front involves grilled corn and avocado ceviche, ‘DIY’ grilled oyster mushroom tacos, and Malaysian-style laksa with sea buckthorn.

As for drinks, choose from third wave coffees, organic wines and a whole host of inventive house drinks. So far, everyone agrees that it’s a place to treasure. (G3) ul.

Jakubowska 16, edenbistro.pl Falafelove Cramped, sweaty and uncomfortable, Falafelove’s customers choose to overlook the aesthetic shortcomings for one very special reason: this is falafel that sets a new benchmark. Recommended is the spicy wrap, comprising of ‘red falafel’, humus, harissa, sundried tomatoes and tahini. If there’s space, join the others on the terrace outside. (C2) ul. Senatorska 40 Falla Both pricing and location combine to keep this venue blocked solid with a muddled mass of students from the uni nearby. Looking simple, maybe even

MODERN TAKE ON JAPANESE CUISINE

OPEN EVERY DAY 12:00-23:00 GROUND FLOOR WARSAW SPIRE, PLAC EUROPEJSKI 2 +48 668 925 959 WABU@WABU.PL | WWW.WABU.PL WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/WABUSUSHI

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EAT! Listings spartan, crowds flock to this corner unit for recipes inspired by the Middle East and Asia: huge wraps tightly packed with pungent kimchi; generous pans brimming with shakshouka; and an array of hummus in unfamiliar forms – chipotle, coriander, carrot and more. (E3) ul. Oboźna 9, fb.com/falla.wawa Kuchnia Konfliktu First came a food truck, then a cargo container. Now, Kuchnia Konfliktu have a legit address they can finally call home.

First founded to provide work for refugees fleeing conflict zones, this social project has won acclaim not just for social initiative, but more importantly its food. With employees hailing from the likes of Iran, Afghanistan, Chechnya and Iraq, prepare to dive deep into the exotic. Full review next issue. (D5) ul. Wilcza 60

Leonardo Verde Geometric patterns, plant arrangements and the large format illustrative artwork of Dominique A. Faryno decorate Leonardo Verde, an upmarket – but inexpensive – Italian joint. Pizza is the forte – order the ‘hot romantic’, a combo featuring chili, avocado and tabasco. (D5) ul. Poznańska 13, fb.com/leonardo.verde. restaurant Lokal Vegan Bistro Aside from a small menu consisting of more standard vegan offers, Lokal keep Homer Simpson characters in mind with regular guest slots for street food that’s given a full vegan makeover. Offhand, that’s meant vegan kebabs, cheesesteaks, burgers and zapiekanka, all of which have been pretty damn good. (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, 517 615 122 Momencik Steamy, tight and sweaty, this pokey subterranean cavern has one key thing going for it: burritos that outrank the majority of ‘proper Mexicans’ in town. The salsas, too, are magnificent (ooh, pineapple), arguably the best in the city. (D5) ul. Poznańska 16 Tel Aviv “People shouldn’t be excluded from high standards just because they’ve chosen the vegan path,” says Malka Kafka, the

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owner of Tel Aviv. As such, find a plantbased menu that gives the tastes of Israel a fancy schmancy style – so fancy that Depeche Mode ate here last summer! (D5) ul. Poznanska 11, restauracjatelaviv.pl Vegan Ramen Shop Co-joining two fads is always a risky business – just ask Loco Mexicana. All of a sudden, the focus doesn’t fall on just getting one thing right, but two. But despite this double-headed challenge Vegan Ramen have struck gold on account of their complex bowls of restorative goodness: their fan base extends way beyond the boundaries of Saska Kępa. Enjoy in a cool interior filled with cute Japanese props on dozens of ‘levitating shelves’.

(G3) ul. Finlandzka 12A Veg Deli An entrance beset with candles, plant pots and seasonal veg charms people in, and they tend to stay on to dine on creative vegetarian options that nearly always hit the spot. The tacos are a bit of a disappointment, but the quinoa burger is fabulous, and the homemade Russian pierogi an absolute highlight. Even committed meat eaters recognize there’s something special going on here. (E3) ul.

Radna 14 Youmiko Vegan Sushi Exceptional in every respect, Youmiko’s tasting menu is one of the undisputed highlights of what’s become known as the vegan square mile. “Our aim,” declares their manifesto, “is to mix traditional Japanese approaches with Polish creativity and surprise you with new textures and flavors.” Mission accomplished. (D5) ul. Hoża 62, youmiko.vg

vietnamese Oh My Pho A busy, family-run joint, OMP’s specific claim to fame is what many are terming the best and most authentic pho in the ward. Steamy and aromatic, this is pho as it should be: full of big herby thwacks, ribboning noodles, and soft strips of meat in a clear, restorative stock. Often cited as being the ‘soul of the nation’, just a few noisy slurps are all that’s needed to corroborate the life-affirming goodness

of this beautiful broth... (D5) ul. Wilcza 32, fb.com/ohmyphowilcza Toan Pho Toan Pho’s bowls of soup with rice noodles come highly recommended; as does the chaos intrinsic to this type of casual Asian eatery. The short menu is in Vietnamese with Polish decoding – although you can ask for an English version. (D4) ul. Chmielna 5/7, tel. 888 147 307 Ukim Though not as high profile as Warsaw’s other gastro streets, Chłodna’s emergence has been no less spectacular. But fine dining and fancy wine bars aside, it’s actually the more standard venues that make the area feel so vibrant. Take Ukim, a cheerful joint decorated with steel Tolix chairs and blooming palms. Covering vast tracts of Asia, the menu, for the most part, feels enjoyable and authentic in equal measure: start with duck and mango spring rolls before moving onto mains such as crispy, sticky chicken in tamarind sauce. (B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, ukim.pl Vietnamka BEST WAWA 2017 “Casual Dining” Divey but lively, diners step down into Vietnamka to find a shouty little lair of mint green walls and wobbly wooden tables. Infused with a gentle sense of chaos (drinks after mains, mains before starters), there’s a certain charm at work that feels authentic and convincing. As for the food, you suspect that’ll be ’nam good when TV chef Kurt Scheller wonders in for a take-out. And boy, yes it is. Squiggled onto a crumpled sheet of paper, menu items include giant bowls of warming pho, steamed goat with lemongrass and more-ish spring rolls. Exceptional in every respect, the cooking here sails Warsaw’s Asian scene into uncharted waters. (D5) ul.

Poznańska 7, fb.com/VietnamkaPoznanska Viet Street Food Bistro What started out as a roaming food truck has settled down into life as a legitimate restaurant. Widely looked upon as the source of some of the best Vietnamese chow this city’s ever seen, the small menu contains steaming bowls of pho and banh mi baguettes loaded with meat and greens: both are brill. (H4) ul. Królowej Aldony 5/2, fb.com/vietstreetfoodpl

EAT! Listings

DRINK!

PHOTOGRAPH ED WIGHT

SETTING THE BAR

Nestled beneath Ed Red lies Targowy, a long bar cast in dim blue lights and permanent shadow: aesthetically, design thrills are kept to a minimum, but there’s a special something at work here, an Xfactor of sorts. Bringing people together in a way few bars manage, Targowy’s success lies in tricking guests into staying for far longer than intended – before you know it, it’s kicking-out time.

Occupied simply by high tables and a bar composed of colored, plastic crates, what it lacks in visual bling it makes up for via an offer that feels diverse and democratic: a smattering of craft beer, hardcore vodka, decent cocktails and a small counter of classic Polish night bites such as tartar and pickles. Served by enthusiastic bar dudes who love joining in the banter, the drinks soon start massing up. Simple in concept (“let’s create a bar with something for everyone,” you imagine the owners saying), but it really does work. We love it – a lot.

Targowy Pl. Mirowski 1

warsawinsider.pl

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drink! Review

ONE ’EL OF A PLACE!

El Koktel Shakes Up Warsaw…

THE DOOR’S LOCKED?

Yes, and for a reason. Firstly, to keep undesirables at bay, and secondly, to add a personal touch. “We’re not a speakeasy,” stresses co-owner Mateusz, “but by keeping the door locked we’re able to meet and greet each guest and also say good bye at the end – it’s all about hospitality.” So there’s you told.

Darkness! Okay, it’s hardly black as pitch, but its dark enough to lend the place an atmosphere and intrigue. In terms of footprint, it’s small; or maybe intimate is a better word. A high ceiling strung with dangling Edison bulbs adds volume, whilst a mezzanine level augments the seating capacity. By way

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PHOTOGRAPH ED WIGHT

WHAT’S INSIDE?

El Koktel ul. Wojciecha Górskiego 9, elkoktel.pl

“

We’re not a speakeasy, but by

keeping the door locked we’re able to meet and greet each guest – it’s all about hospitality

of design, it’s a bit of a puzzle. There’s a wire corset strung with fairy lights; soothing cyan-colored wallpaper; and framed vintage posters sprinkled about. These, along with the gleaming strainers and shakers, lend an almost classic, pre-war mood to the overall setting. But it’s not all serious: look about and you’ll see an inflatable pink flamingo resting on the shelves as well as baffling photos of Lynch-esque scenes. There’s a character here, an intensely likable one at that.

WHO’S THERE?

The pert and pretty are here, so too the well-groomed modern man.

Naturally speaking, places like this are always going to attract people on the right side of affluent, but there’s

a balance to the crowd that prevents any whiff of snob. As a bar it feels open-minded, engaging and intelligent, and those are traits that rub off on those present.

WHAT AM I ORDERING?

Owners Matuesz and Paweł form the backbone of El Koktel, reaching back on years of experience working in some of Europe’s top bars to pour drinks that leave you on the brink of applause. Certificates and awards testifying to their talent are on display, but your best bet is to see for yourself what they’re capable of doing.

Changing every few months, find on the menu forgotten world classics, seasonal specialties with names such as God Save The Quince and El Koktel

signatures: from the latter, this Insider adored the Easy Lover (lemon vodka, peach, lemon, mint), but full marks were also earned by the smoking (literally) Out Of The Box (bourbon, Pedro Ximenez sherry, roasted sesame and tamarind). Truth be told, whatever you choose you won’t be disappointed.

WAIT, HAVEN’T I HEARD OF EL KOKTEL BEFORE?

Well if you haven’t, you should be taken outside and finished off with a pistol. Originating on Poznańska a few years back inside a casual, hidden space not much bigger than a mouse hole, it was there that El Koktel first earned a name for some of the top cocktails in the country. The milieu has changed, the quality hasn’t. warsawinsider.pl

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drink! Listings bars & pubs 2Koła Sat, as it is, in the abandoned backspaces and brickyards behind Zachodnia station, 2Koła feels like Warsaw’s dirtiest little secret. Still stained and smelling of grease and oil, this former garage is piled high with dented sofas, warehouse palettes and motorcycling detritus. Yet the supremely friendly owners have turned this shadowy lair into a cult bar that’s specifically celebrated for rowdy jam sessions that cover everything from ragtime to rockabilly. ul. Tunelowa 2B 8 Dzień Tygodnia Though the owners remain the same, the unit that once housed Kwadrat couldn’t be more different: no longer a grungey, shadowy space, it’s been rebooted with lots of brash, bursts of color, strings of fairy lights and pops of modern art.

What’s not been lost is the amiable sense of gentle chaos: buoyed by a quirky beer selection and fun music policy, this remains one of the friendliest venues in the parish. (D5) ul. Poznańska 7 The Alchemist A small place with a big bag of tricks: upscale pub grub from Brit chef Ed Shellard, fancy cocktails, and a self-serve wall of beer from a choice of global brewers.

Poland’s still getting used to the idea of ‘a pint after work’, but in The Alchemist the idea of a post-office drink just seems so right. (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 3, thealchemist.pl Bar Pacyfik From Day 1 there was something that felt special about this place, and that feeling has only swelled with the progress of time. With a retro-kitsch interior delivered straight from the age of Scarface (candy floss pink, ocean blue), it’s a bar that’s dark and divey, raw and real. More than just a spot for the cool kids, there’s an inclusive atmosphere that feels positively international. As for drinks, the habanero / salsa infused Bloody Maria is a lifeaffirming gargle that sweeps through the body like an electric current – three sips and you feel like Superman. (C5) ul. Hoża 61 Bar Studio The ascetic, modern décor is intentional – both not to compete with the fine

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adornment of the original walls and to break through the building’s grandiose airs. It’s hard not to be overawed by the sheer gigantism of the Palace of Culture that looms above. It seamlessly slips from café during the day into its more culturally active persona in the evenings, with concerts, film screenings, plays and political discussions. (C4) Pl. Defilad 1, barstudio.pl Bar Warszawa De Luxe Leave your visit to the weekend when De Luxe unfurls into something resembling a Polish wedding disco. All the requisite characters appear in this spinning vortex of Boney M: vodka-fuelled Incredible Hulks, groping granddads, svelte students and everyone else in between. Somehow, the formula works without a hitch. There are Poles who’d be mortified by this representation of their country, but the truth is, it’s a rip-roaring time that’s enjoyed by most. (D2) Krakowskie Przedmieście 79 Bazar There’s Krusovice, Bernard and Staropramen on tap, and the Czech slant is lent added meat by a series of evenings held in cahoots with the Czech Cultural Centre – it’s during boozy disco nights the party spills into a shadowy cellar with light retro hints. On ground level its raw and industrial with asphalt colors and overhead pipes. You wouldn’t expect it, but the margaritas are smashing. (F1) ul. Jagiellońska 13

Beirut They’ve smashed a wall through though that’s still not enough to accommodate the crowd. Adorned with detritus inspired by the Lebanese conflict (ammox boxes, sandbags and… a bomb), by day find media types posturing by their Macs. At night, the air of cool dissolves into a wild, happy whirl of international voices. (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, beirut.com.pl

Bierhalle Having tapped their first beer eight years back, this microbrewery has morphed into a national phenomenon with outposts across the country. All Warsaw locations have a cut/paste Bavarian atmosphere, hefty wooden fittings and waitresses dressed like mountain frauleins. The drinks themselves are formulaic and nothing special. various locations, bierhalle.pl

Bohemia You have to credit them for trying something different, but by going for a slick, corpo style Bohemia have completely missed ‘the essence of Czechia’. Filled with smooth wood and gleaming glass, it feels more boardroom than beer hall (actually, make that bored room). What goes right? The beer. Poured from a ‘tank’ system designed to maintain your beer’s freshness, it’s every bit as good as drinking straight from the tit of Pilsner’s own brew master. (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, bohemiarestaurant.pl

British Bulldog In terms of aesthetic it’s the most accurate replica of an English pub you’ll find. And they get a further nod for a brilliant covered terrace that’s great in all weather. Not that you’ll find many British expats in here, they’ve been boycotting the place ever since the dismissal of the original British manager.

Judging by the poor standards of beer and food, you might want to follow their example. What could have become an expat legend is, in essence, a big wet plop of disappointment. (D4) ul. Aleje Jerozolimskie 42, bbpub.pl

Central Bar The beer (supplied by Bierhalle) is fine, the cocktails are getting better, and the atmosphere is cranked to max: you get the buzzy sense that you’re in the middle of something that’s captured Warsaw’s imagination – the natural focal point of Hala Koszyki, the ever-stretching Central Bar was one of the biggest hits of 2017.

(D6) ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki)

Ceska With its fake brickwork and shameless proliferation of Pilsner paraphernalia, the general feeling is that Ceska feels forced and phony – looking like it was fitted out to a rigid company blueprint, it’s more like the kind of theme pub you’d find off Leicester Square. Service, meanwhile, can be surly, forgetful and occasionally plain hostile. The ‘tank’ pouring system is a considerable plus: try the ‘mliko’, a full pint of creamy foam that can be sunk in a swig. (D4) ul. Chmielna 35, ceska.pl Chłodna 25 After several closures, noise clampdowns and a change in management you’d

Drink! Listings

drink! Listings imagine C25 to be a mere shadow of what it once was. But after a slow start the new management have rescued this listing vessel and returned it to it best.

On the ground floor it’s a place of creaking floorboards and retro armchairs, while the basement gets opened for experimental music nights and improvised orchestras. (B3) ul. Chłodna 25, klubchlodna25.pl

Elephant Belgian Pub Signposted by a jolly, dancing elephant, this Belgian pub presents its cause the moment you enter – there’s twenty or so taps laid right out in front, and to the left a fridge that’s expected to top out to cover 200 beers. The design is basic – brickwork, beer kegs and varying ephemera of the brewing trade – but it doesn’t need that much more: it’s about the beer, after all. (C1) ul. Freta 19 Gram Head up the stairs from Warmut (see Cocktails) to uncover Gram, a small room designed to evoke the feeling of stepping inside a circus tent. Set with arcade games (Pac-Man! Space Invaders!!), it’s a super fun space with a fridge of craft beers and quirky little details: look up and you’ll find monkey figures parachuting from the ceiling! You are, in effect, inside a playground for adults. (D6)

Irish Pub Opened in 1991, it’s doubtful that the place has seen a cleaning lady since, but the general sense of murk and muck does add to the authenticity: it looks and feels like a pub should. Served by a stern, expressionless barman, the Guinness arrives in a mug that’s seen better days but is actually surprisingly decent.

Nothing memorable, but not the calamity you may anticipate from a Polish-run Irish pub on the fringes of Old Town. (C2) ul. Miodowa 3, irishpubmiodowa.pl

Jaś & Małgosia Insouciant one moment, your best friend the next, the staff at Jaś & Małgosia show the two faces of Polish service brilliantly. Reactivated a couple of years ago, this pavilion bar has a story dating back to the 60s, and a great atmosphere primed for plates of simple food, shots of vodka and bottles of local beer. A cornerstone of Muranów, the diversity of the crowd such much for the warmth of the overall atmosphere. (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 57, klubjasimalgosia.pl

Kosmos – Inne Beczki Craft beer, pizza, late nights and DJs! In a nutshell, that’s Kosmos. Attracting the kind of crowd you’d anticipate (trend aware 20/30-somethings), it’s the kind of place where a dull time is rare. (D5)

ul. Marszałkowska 45/49

ul. Poznanska 24

Grizzly Gin Bar More prone than ever to global trends, news that the international gin revival has hit Warsaw comes as no real bombshell. The style in Grizzly is dark and hip with the design largely limited to moody lighting, some witty murals and a bank of outdated TV sets given an artistic twist; the smoking room is great for accidental meetings with curious characters while the occasional gigs really pack a punch – it’s fast becoming the latest and loudest night in the area. (D5) ul. Wilcza 46

Kraken Rum Bar Named after one of the ocean’s most feared mythical creatures (the scary squid from Pirates of the Caribbean), the wood-clad Kraken features a wall of cymbals, heavy furniture and some interesting photography. While there’s some decent bottles of rum, there’s perhaps not enough to justify calling it a rum bar. The place rocks though. (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, fb.com/KrakenRumBar

Hard Rock Cafe Full throttle cocktails, lively staff and a classic rock soundtrack: the energy of HRC is hard to find fault with. And on the rare occasion there is a lull in the night, use the opportunity to sniff around memorabilia that includes a black leather number once worn by Madonna.

Legends Over the years Legends has earned a legendary status amongst the expats and Anglophiles. Their cause is helped by touches such as a proper darts board, Sky Sports and a traditional menu that’s as authentically English as the Downing Street cat. Presiding over it all is Graham, a seasoned expat and Everton nut. (C5) ul. Emilii Plater

(C5) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), hardrockcafe.pl

25, legendsbar.pl

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Między Nami With 18 years of service under their belt you may think of Między Nami as being an antiquated has-been. Not so.

Haunted by a mix of media types and local characters, this hip white piece of post-commie Warsaw has an enduring, almost timeless appeal. (D4) ul. Bracka 20, miedzynamicafe.com

Miejsce Chwila Surviving the move from their former digs is the giant mural of a weatherworn babcia, and it’s under her watery gaze that drinkers congregate to make the most of a decent fridge generously stocked with specialty beers from Poland’s more leftfield producers. Also successfully enduring the challenges of their cross-city move is the underlying spirit that made them so famous. Defiantly arty in its character, the creative mood that prevails manifests itself in a quirky design that involves retro accents, refurbed armchairs, a neon of Lennon and the compelling illustrations of Izabela Wójtowicz. (D5) ul. Żurawia 47 Paradox Billing themselves as a ‘sci-fi / gamers / role play asylum’ this is a cradle of geeks, nerds and people who collect serial killer memorabilia. Decorated with plastic black crows, a map of Mordor and figurines of goblins, watch as oddly attired suspects engross themselves in ‘for hire’ games with names like Hobbit and Bewoulf. (B1) ul. Anielewicza 2, paradox-cafe.pl

Plan B Plan B is the very essence of dive Warsaw. Weekends pass by in a raucous blur, with the party spilling out under the colonnades outside – it helps to look like a DJ, but in truth everyone is welcome.

The hangover from this shabby, grubby bar is traumatic. (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), planb.pl

Przystań Nowa Fala If nothing else, 2018 will be remembered as the year the Wisła finally kicked-on to go more upmarket. Playing more than a bit part in all that is Przystań, a gorgeous, moored vessel with ample seating both inside and out. On the first level, order from a bar well-stocked with craft beers, world wines and funky

drink! Listings cocktails, before heading to the open upstairs deck to join a fun, cosmopolitan crowd stretched out under the stars. (E2) Bulwar Gen. George’a Smitha Pattona

Sheesha Lounge Providing you don’t mind sharing the weekend with some of the most gloriously gorgeous people in the city, then a trip to Sheesha ticks all the boxes. Presenting itself in a whirl of action, the exotic, clubby atmosphere hits fever pitch come the midnight hour. Earlier, soak up the atmosphere with a scented hookah while lounging under eastern lights. (D5) Al. Jerozolimskie 33, sheesha.pl

from the wall. There’s an air of louche 60s living here, and it gets weirder when bands with names like the Bum Bum Orchestra enter to play trumpets amongst vodka-tipping guests. (F1) ul. Ząbkowska 6, oparyabsurdu.pl

Warszawa Powiśle The prime months for this former ticket booth arrive each summer when the deckchairs outside provide ample opportunity for the city’s young and fashionable to gather in an almost carnival-like atmosphere. Once seen as the hipster Center of Power, it still maintains great popularity with whiskered, tattooed sorts.

(E4) ul.Kruczkowskiego 3B, warszawapowisle.pl

Stixx It takes a moment to allow the sheer magnitude of Stixx sink in. Having adjusted to the wow factor of the interior – which can best be described as cosmopolitan-industrial – most retreat to the long, all weather deck which in itself is quite something: the aesthetics are such that a cocktail party on an oligarch’s yacht comes to mind. There aren’t many better places for a drink when the roof is rolled back and the stars twinkle above. (A4) Pl. Europejski 4A, tel. 22 340 4040, stixx.pl

Świetlica Long and narrow, dark and murky, it’s as raw as they come: toilets of grubby menace, a smoking room clad in spray art, broken fittings and general gloom.

Basically, it’s everything you demand from the last bar of the night – a place where you can slide into the shadows and watch the world spin around. (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 17 Ulubiona Set inside the archway, look for a heavy door next to a dented ashtray seemingly unemptied for the last couple of months.

Shadowy and shabby, you’ll usually find barflies strumming guitars or engrossed in a solo game of chess. An intensely personal experience, it’s a bar that compensates for its lack of glitz with a stoner-style ambiance that soon sweeps over all. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 27

W Oparach Absurdu Hidden under Persian rugs, velvety drapes and reclaimed antiques, some still refer to it as The Spider Bar in reference to the giant tarantula that once hung

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Worek Kości A celebration of both the burlesque and bizarre, Worek Kości is the bar Edgar Allan Poe would create were he raised from the dead. A lively evening hangout with ad-libbed cocktails and an unconventional program of events, you’re as likely to visit during an open-mic night as you are a discussion on Silesian serial killers. This fascination with the morbid and macabre manifests itself by way of a quirky design featuring hundreds of skulls and book shelves lined with the complete works of Stephen King. (E7) ul.

Bagatela 10

Wozownia Founded by the same people behind the ‘ruin bar’ inside the original Hala Koszyki (back when it was a decrepit pile of wobbly, black stonework), Wozownia brings together the hip and beautiful inside a 200-year-old carriage house.

The beer front is pretty dull, but the cocktails can be outstanding whilst the Prosecco is pretty much the cheapest glass of bubbles you’ll uncover in the city.

A sensation over summer, it’s one of the top pre-club spots in the center. Pl. Trzech Krzyży 16, fb.com/WozowniaBar

Żyrafa Sucked inside it’s green/blue glow, visitors all but collide against the bar with a swing of the door. It’s just 15 sq/m, but that doesn’t stop drinkers rolling in. “There’s some nights we’ve had 30 people in here,” says the barman, a thought that both terrifies and exhilarates in equal measure. (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 22

cafés

Bułkę przez Bibułkę There’s a feminine style to this cafe, what with its cute, girly pastels, petite plant pots and woodsy finishes. But no matter what your gender or age, there’s something immediately sunny and positive about this place. Slow food sandwiches arrive on wooden boards, there’s pretty homemade desserts and a careful choice of wine: falling in love with it is easy. ul. Puławska 24 & ul. Zgoda 3, bulkeprzezbibulke.pl

Być Może It’s all about artisan bread and breakfast in the industrial looking Być Może. It’s taken the concept of Charlotte (groan, there’s even a communal table), and improved it with excellent breads and a crowd that’s a little less pleased with itself. (E7) ul. Bagatela 14, bycmoze.com.pl Ceramiczna Unless you already live out there, you’re probably going to need a very good reason to visit Tarchomin. Ceramiczna is it. A strong candidate for our favorite interior in town, the design references the halcyon times of vintage design in a way that feels fresh and thrilling. It helps, too, that the coffee is outstanding. It’s a long way from the center, but you’ll want to stay here for hours. ul. Ceramiczna 20 Charlotte Menora If the air is smug and self-satisfied, there’s a good reason for that: Charlotte have come to embody modern urban Poland: energetic, ambitious and ferociously trend conscious. And to think, some look at it as a mere bakery. Occupying a long space, the latest outpost of this café chain doesn’t overlook the area’s Jewish heritage, with the menu featuring several Jewish delicacies: the bagels are ok. (C4) Pl. Grzybowski 2, bistrocharlotte.pl Coffeedesk Looking flawless in her pearl white colors, Coffeedesk is a place that does it right. Brewed by expert coffeeologists, the humble cup of Joe becomes an object of adoration. Populated round-the-clock by head-phoned freelancers and digital nomads tapping into their Macs, it’s a light, bright spot with a dynamic style and

drink! Listings a keen sense of sexy. (D5 ul. Wilcza 42, fb.

Brewers Cup champion. (C3) ul. Elektoralna

com/coffeedeskwilcza

11, forum.coffee

Cophi So small you get the idea you could fit Cophi into the palm of your hand, yet no other place in Warsaw is more devoted to sourcing the best coffees in the world. (D5)

Lapidarium It’s high time that the Old Town Square had a café worth visiting, but would have thought that it would be a museum providing such? Run under the aegis of the Museum of Warsaw, visitors choose from rustic meals prepped locally by Gospoda Kwiaty Polskie, regional beers, Polish wine from Mierzęcin Palace and tea courtesy of Harney & Sons. Enjoy these in minimalistic vaulted interiors or in a soothingly calm courtyard garden stacked with gargoyles and other historic elements. (D1) Rynek Starego Miasto 40,

ul. Hoża 58/60

Dobro & Dobro Cafe Measuring just six square meters (record attendance: 12 customers!), the tiniest cafe in Poland has grown into a cult stopoff for people looking to do something wacky. If you’re into karma, then buy a suspended coffee – order a coffee in advance for a stranger, write a personal message and then hang the cup from a string. (E8) ul. Puławska 11, fb.com/dobrocafe EmEsEn Heaving with heavyweight art titles and photo albums, the crowd that gathers in this café/bookstore is suitably leftfield and creative. On the work front, strong wifi and plenty of plugs make this one of the better venues in which to put your nose to the grindstone. Aiding your endeavors is a serious choice of coffee sourced from roasters such as The Barn from Berlin and Melbourne’s Atomica. (C4) ul. Pańska 3, fb.com/emesen.kawki

FatWhite_CoffeeBar Attached to a super cool barber shop (tatts, beards, crazy whiskers!), this tiny café has a beauty of an interior: swan white with surfaces graced by contemporary artwork that references the Muranów district and dozens of collectible superhero figures (plus a gun-toting Pacino). There’s a real scene going on here, with daylight hours usually packing out with social media types and urban fashionistas. Disarmingly friendly, it’s somewhere near the top of the Insider’s ‘must visit’ cafes. (C1) ul. Andersa 6 Forum Born with Instagram in mind, Forum has it all: super cool Afro-haired staff, a fashionably frayed interior, and a devoted client base that’s all about out-sized headphones and razor-thin laptops.

Changing weekly, the big pull is a menu of specialty coffees from acclaimed roasters such as Five Elephant and The Coffee Collective fixed up by Poland’s AeroPress and

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Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2019

lapidariumcafe.com

Kafka Café A chessboard floor and a collection of antlers on the wall characterize Kafka, a bookstore / café whose literary collection is composed of paperbacks rescued from recycling plants. Books are purchased by their weight (zł. 10 per kilo) while the menu includes pancakes, pastas and even doggy treats for your mutt. (E3) ul. Oboźna 3

Strumiłło, this 50s pavilion has an ascetic design defined by polar white interiors.

Contrast is provided downstairs, with deep magenta walls and retro armchairs.

Concerts, screenings and art happenings have made it into something of local cultural mainstay. ul. Zwycięzców 49, klubokawiarnia.net

Krem A chic city center hangout with all the swanky, urban elegance of the 8th arrondisement. Opened by the same team behind Monsieur Leon, find their latest little baby decorated with monochrome tiles, marble-topped tables, and retro-styled mirrors. A place of hip sophistication and laid-back vibe, the menu is built around French cheeseboards, raclette and super sexy baguettes.

(D6) ul. Śniadeckich 18

Kawiarnia Fabryczna A place to eavesdrop, catch-up on gmail and daydream the morning away, head to this warm den to sink inside comfy retro chairs and soak up the natural light that pours through the window. Prepared on a Nuova Simonelli machine, the coffee hails from a range of pedigree roasters such as Warsaw’s own Coffee Lab. (E3)

Labour Cafe Labour Café’s door crashes open onto a busy space that sets bare raw materials of steel, wood, concrete and brick against lashings of plant life and bursts of poster art. But if the front part is all about catching up with friends and soaking up the vibe over bagels and ‘ethical’ coffee, then outback is where the serious stuff happens – discover a studiously quiet dual-level working space featuring a printer, flipcharts and plentiful light. (E4)

ul. Fabryczna 28/30

ul. Tamka 49, labour.pl

Kawiarnia Kawałek In a district that’s in the process of supersizing itself as Warsaw’s new business district, this neighborhood café offers a human touch in an area rapidly filling itself with glinting glass towers and gated compounds. The warmth of welcome aside, features of this charming bolt hole include coffee sourced from cult roasters as Rocket Bean, and a homemade machine knocking out year-round nitro that’s smoother than velvet. Seated around a small communal table, type your own ode to Wola on a typewriter first bought by the owner’s grandfather. (B4)

Ministerstwo Kawy Sourcing their coffee from Koppi, an internationally acclaimed Swedish roasting house, the ministry takes no short cuts in their pursuit of excellence.

Utilizing Ethiopian, Costa Rican and Brazilian arabicas – some exclusive to Poland – barista Wojciech Rzytki has earned a reputation across Poland for his expert hand. Rave reviews are standard and appropriate. (D6) ul. Marszałkowska

ul. Łucka 18, fb.com/KawiarniaKawalek

KluboKawiarnia Towarzyska With an interior modeled by John

27, ministerstwokawy.pl

Niezłe Ziółko Café & Deli A shrine to pure and healthy eating, this friendly café doesn’t just brew a great coffee, but bakes its own bread and produces its own yogurt. Sit in the loft to look down on shoppers scurrying to

DRINK! Listings Mokotowska, and on the way out, check out ‘Grandma’s Cupboard’ in the corner: jams, spreads and olive oils are there to buy for home. (D5) ul. Krucza 17

Odette Tearoom Taking its lead from their original dessert stop on ul. Górskiego, the sister venue peddles glorious cakes and pralines as well as a hand-picked selection of boutique teas served in a fragrant and elegant atmosphere. (C4) ul. Twarda 4, odette.pl

Relaks Expertly prepared, right down to the foam art, the baristas here use the finest imported machines and work only with fair trade, ‘specialty’ coffee. If you have time, the drip coffees are more than worth the wait. The crowded interiors supply a retro accent, and are enjoyed by a fashion aware, laptop-touting crowd.

(E9) ul. Puławska 48

Relax Na Wilczej Characterized by structured simplicity, it’s a venue that maximizes space and light. Never overly complex, clean lines of vision are interrupted only by a scattering of coffee tomes and a statement mural

by Mariusz Tarkawian. Calm and intuitive, it’s an interior that feels both effective and efficient. And as for the coffee: one sip and you’re hooked. Order the silky smooth nitro. (D5) ul. Wilcza 17, fb.com/ RelaxNaWilczej

Resort Originally known for their OTT recycling motif (shopping trolleys re-purposed as seats, street signs as tables...), Resort have pared the design down replacing the old junk with a cool, caramel-colored look high on wood, plants and discreet retro accents. Craft beer, eco-friendly bites, clever cocktails and quality coffee contribute to their popularity, as does a busy events program that’s big on comedy and open mic nights. (C2) ul. Bielańska 1 Same Fusy Suffused in a candle-lit glow, this 15th century cellar unwinds to reveal a charming brick room suspended in time. Filled with gnarled wooden oddities and tree stump tables, the sweet aroma of fragrant teas helps amplify the fairy tale mood. ul. Nowomiejska 10

Stor Buying their coffee from revered roasters such as Berlin’s Bonanza and Stockholm’s Drop Coffee, Stor have grown to become a giant presence on Warsaw’s café map. Visitors bask in natural light amid outbreaks of greenery and quirky design touches: time runs away here and before you know it hours have passed. ul. Tamka 33, fb.com/storcafe

Wrzenie Świata Those with journalistic leanings love Wrzenie Świata. It’s definitely more Macbook than Moleskine, but this bookstore/café attracts plenty of readers (and writers) to its book-lined interior.

Buzzing like a cafe should, it packs out for slideshows and seminars. (E4) ul.

Gałczyńskiego 7

clubs Enklawa Forget Tinder, Enklawa is the best pick-up joint around – a classic kitschy, glitzy disco, it draws in huge crowds with a simple lineup of pop and dance hits. Still regarded as the best Wednesday night in Warsaw, it’s the place for singletons looking for a one-night confidence boost.

(D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, enklawa.com

Luztro Don’t sit down, you won’t know what you might catch. Dark and generally filthy, Warsaw’s most (in)famous club only gets going around about three. As the hours click towards daybreak, the scenes of depravity are like something from Sodom and Gomorrah. Enjoyed by zombies that quite definitely don’t have to be up for work anytime in the next 48 hrs, it’s not just the full-on techno that will leave the brain rattling – it’s the craziest night in Poland! (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, luztro.pl N58 The latest entry on Warsaw’s club circuit have issued a manifesto promising deep vocal house, r’n’b, mash-ups and theme nights centered around Afro Beats / trap / twerk and hip hop. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58 No Comment A secret world for those In The Know, find No Comment in a seedy-looking warsawinsider.pl

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drink! Listings tower under Poniatowski Bridge. Clad in decadent, blue velvety surfaces, this tiny bi-level club feels redolent of an afterhours Parisian members club: everyone seems to know each other, and after a bottle of bubbles you will as well. (F4) Al. 3 Maja 16/18A, Most Poniatowskiego

Ritual Looking dark and sensual, this two-level space unwraps before you like some elaborate adventure. Candles flicker, atmosphere crackles – moving towards the bar, slinky, sultry club creatures of unfathomable beauty prowl past with drinks poised in hand. Heating up gradually as the night progresses, Ritual moves organically from being a voluptuous bar to a spicy club as the night ebbs towards its heady conclusion. (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, ritualwarsaw.com

Room 13 Connected by a series of inter-linking archways, rooms inside this dressy club throb at the weekends with a super sexy crowd letting loose under the vaulted ceilings. Now in their fifth year, it’s become a stalwart of the Mazowiecka scene. (D3)

on a revolving schedule of sounds, pinning its attention on everything from jazz and soul to Britpop and electro.

Spread across a series of chambers decorated with vintage fittings, parquet floors and wood-paneled walls, Spatif’s main success lies in replicating that fun, spontaneous feel of a house party that’s spiraled out of control: no matter their individual back story, everyone gets on (and occasionally gets off). Just about the most unpretentious club night you’ll find, this labyrinthine pre-war tenement feels fun, diverse and never up its own arse.

(E5) al. Ujazdowskie 45 The View Occupying the upper levels of a skyscraper, The View is a place of bubbles and beauties and all things glam. A world class venue, past crowd pullers include Bob Sinclair and David Morales. In summer, the glam and the gorgeous won’t be seen anywhere but the open air rooftop deck: it’s pure NYC. (C4) ul. Twarda 18

cocktails

ul. Mazowiecka 13, room13.pl

Sen Entering this top-floor joint, visitors are hit by a tidal wave of gorgeousness: wallto-wall with George Clooney lookalikes, off-duty celebrities and catwalk glamor pusses, the carefree hedonism is like something from a film – only tonight, you’re one of the stars. Sod the bank account, you think, bring me champagne: enjoy just that on a terrace deck slung with Edison bulbs, or indoors in an area festooned with deluxe sofas and floor-toceiling windows that stare out onto the National Stadium opposite. The good life doesn’t get any better. (F4) ul. Wioślarska 6 Smolna 38 Hated by the selfie mob (guests have to cover their phones with a sticker), rated by everyone else, Smolna’s nights have grown to become legend. Pete Tong, Simian Mobile Disco and Hercules & Love Affair have all played in the past, which says much for the management’s ambition. (E4) ul. Smolna 38, smolna38.com Spatif The varied music policy shines a light

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6 Cocktails If 6 Cocktails has the feeling of hanging around someone’s flat that’s because, actually, you are. This posh Mokotowska apartment has been re-adapted as an exclusive bar frequented by leggy models and society figures: the parties are nuts!

Unmarked from street level, to enjoy the inventive cocktails message them on FB and await your invite. (E5) ul. Mokotowska 57 Back Room Plush fabrics, muted lighting, intuitive service, a well-scrubbed crowd, a flickering fireplace and shelves displaying drinks as if they were trophies: the ambiance is nailed down to such an extent that those who use this speakeasy for pre-club drinks often find themselves skipping the club bit altogether. And why bother with anywhere else when you have masterpiece cocktails that are immaculate, imaginative and mixed with practiced expertise. The close quarters of the venue and playful nature of the guests make accidental conversation something of an occurrence. It’s a social place – be sociable! (D6) ul. Koszykowa 49A, fb.com/BackRoomWarsaw

Bar Wieczorny The cocktails are serious here, with top quality spirits (Vestal, Baczewski, Woodford Reserve) used with equally big name mixes (Fentimans, Big Tom, etc.). Further, you’ll find it’s the right products in the right hands – the staff really know their game. (D8) ul. Wiśniowa 46, barwieczorny.pl Bardziej This split-level bar does a good job of capturing the essence of the area, with inventive ‘author’s cocktails’ matched against a dimly lit, ‘steam punk’ interior that’s heaving with cogs, metal hooks and enigmatic dials. The later it gets, the better it is. (E5) ul. Marszałkowska 21/25 (enter from Oleandrów)

Biała Saska’s premier cocktail spot reaches its zenith each summer thanks to a leafy back garden that stands shaded by this modernist building: it’s worth visiting just to swan down the spiral stairs with a glass of something bubbly. ul. Francuska 2, fb.com/bialazjedziwypij

Ceviche Bar The ‘bar’ bit in the name isn’t a deceit, it’s there for a reason: here, the design, DJs and drinks work seamlessly to generate an ambiance that’s buzzy, energetic and something of a scene. Yet though the cocktails have long been celebrated, the ante’s been upped by a new ‘Nikkei’ card that combines Peruvian and Japanese techniques and ingredients. Of the standouts, none earn higher praise than the Matero, a mix of Japanese yuzu citruses and Pisco infused with Yerba Mate. You won’t stop at one. (C4) ul. Twarda 4, cevichebar.pl

Charlie Crowd: glam & vampy. The venue: equally so. Occupying the first floor of a pre-war tenement, there’s a magic here that summons the age of F. Scott Fitzgerald – Gatsby would love it. The ace in the pack is a ‘subconscious menu’ from which clients order mystery cocktails based on their scent. (E6) ul. Mokotowska 39 Coctail Bar Max Can you trust a cocktail bar that can’t even spell the word? In this case, yes!

Max looks bright, cheerful and fully loaded for the sun, and also comes with

Drink! Listings a smoking alcove in the back stuffed with whisky and cigars. The cocktails are the main affair though, and here they’re extravagant efforts that resemble a tropical jungle in miniature form. Very popular with types that aspire to become footballers’ wives, etc. (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22 Column Bar Just the look of Column Bar sweeps you off your feet; there’s something breathlessly classy about it, like you’ve just entered Gatsby’s ballroom. You want to order a pyramid of champagne and dance on their piano. Behave, and order a cocktail instead. For a taste of the classics, the Column Bar is pretty peerless. (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44 (Hotel Bristol)

Cosmo Bar Though they’ve made a big noise about embracing a variety of initiatives aimed at maximizing sustainability, Tomek Roehr’s Cosmo Bar project, is more than

a one-trick pony. Beyond the novelty factor is a scrupulous attention to detail that manifests itself in impeccable cocktails based around Polish produce – rowanberry, sea buckthorn and suchlike.

Occupying a plush, little corner of the Cosmopolitan Tower, this is luxury with a conscience. ul. Twarda 4, cosmobar.pl Kita Koguta The staff aren’t afraid to get imaginative, and that includes serving cocktails in smoking coconut husks. Aimed at a younger crowd largely in their 20s, it’s a good-humored, lively cocktail bar that’s famed around the country for the creativity of its bartenders. Next door, visit their sister bar, Kiti. Dominated by a tall Polynesian totem, this ray of sunshine gets noted for extravagant cocktails served by game staff in zany shirts. (E5) ul. Krucza 6/14

Long Bar Decked out with smooth marble, natural

oak, striking art and soft tan leather, it’s a venue that writes a new chapter in the 160-year story of the venerable Europejski Hotel. Luxurious while never being excessive or ostentatious, there’s a calming sense of class that feels elegant yet relaxed: expensive, yes, prohibitive, no. Intuitive service, sophisticated drinks and an interior that feels timeless yet historic in equal measure – for the full Raffles experience, order from their choice of signature Slings. (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13 (Raffles Europejski), raffles.com/warsaw

Panorama Sky Bar The Marriott’s 40th floor Panorama has had a couple of incarnations: first, as a glitzy Dynasty throwback, and then, more recently, as something that could have passed for a business class airport lounge. Now it’s been reinvented once again, only this time successfully: find slick, vibrant interiors redolent of London matched up with modern cocktails and

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drink! Listings twinkling views. (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, panoramabar.pl

Podwale Bar & Books Though it doesn’t have to be winter to enjoy T R C Podwale Bar & Books, it definitely helps.

P T M Seen frosted, foggy windows C through W ≈ it’sWa venue that reveals itself as a place C of Cdark,≈delicious colors and rarefied C ≈ air. Occupying the kind of charismatic T ≈ gatehouse you’d read about in Dickens, P E ≈ yourself in front of the upstairs position L S fireplace for a celebratory cigar and a P B B glass of something tall and lovely: the cocktails are in a class of their own and specifically customized for the season.

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Wąski Dunaj 20, 00-256 Warsaw Tel.: +48 225.599.199

(D2) ul. Wąski Dunaj 20, barandbooks.pl

The Roots Having recruited some of the top bartenders in Poland, The Roots have a serious artillery on which to rely. So committed is this haunt, its walls are graced by a V O L vast of cocktail memorabilia: i n collection Y a P antique jiggers, shakers, coolers, not www.barandbooks.pl to mention an original signed copy of the world’s first cocktail handbook (published: 1862!). (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 11 n

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Warmut Set in the Commie era No Man’s Land between Zbawiciela and Konstytucji, it’s become one of the hottest nights in town. This vermouth-inspired cocktail bar features classic and house creations, and a spectacular design involving street art, greenery and mirrored walls. But the piece de resistance? Those are the scale models of local landmarks that hang from the ceiling. Instagram them now before everyone else does. And don’t forget to head up the stairs to their cool little sister, Gram (see Bars). (D6) ul.

Marszałkowska 45/49

Weles Named after the Slavic god of the underworld, everything about Weles evokes the spirit of indulgence: a zinc 1920s ceiling imported from the States, a crystal chandelier and a wooden bar carved from a British carousel. A work of refined craftsmanship, the cocktails stand out as the most sophisticated in the city.

(D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 11, welesbar.pl

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Woda Ognista Woda Ognista evokes the jazzy air of a Chicago, Prohibition era speakeasy with a seriously stylish interior that includes a colossal collection of vintage cocktail shakers that glint behind glass. The drinks themselves, rattled up by dapper gents in braces and flat caps, are split between house creations and reprised classics from a bygone era. Some are more successful than others, and it’s a credit to the staff that they’re willing to take comments on board and adapt their precious recipes to suit fussy tastes. (E5) ul. Wilcza 8, wodaognista.com

craft beer Artezan Pub The country has crazier breweries for sure, but does it have anyone more consistent than the lads at Artezan. Famed for their Pacific – the quintessential domestic IPA – Artezan’s flagship bar is a standard bearer not just for quality, but for Poland as a whole. (D4) ul. Moniuszki 1A Chmielarnia Musty, muggy, murky. Head into the basement depths of the fishing institute to discover Chmielarnia, a subterranean tap bar where artisan beers rule the roost: check the ‘glass tomb’ filled with mainstream macro lagers. The bar gets loud and rackety, sweaty and sticky, and seems especially popular with geeks and know-it-alls discussing their beer’s ‘finish’ and ‘nose’. (B4) ul. Twarda 42 Chmielarnia Marszałkowska A breath of fresh air when compared to the original – literally. Points are earned by whoever thought to add an Indian menu, while other pluses are awarded for a fridge housing exciting brews trending around the globe: from super cool Bermondsey breweries to Scandinavian legends, it’s a place you feel actually broadens your horizons. (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16

Chmielołak Bis All the hallmarks of the quintessential neighborhood bar are here – that said, seeing they don’t even have a bar (just a line of taps and a barmaid standing in front of them), maybe calling it a bar

in the traditional sense takes a jump of the imagination. Regardless, there’s something about this place that’s special: a cute wooden-decked garden aside, reasons to visit include ten taps, a snug, secret basement and a sense of something warm, neighborly and pleasingly engaging. ul. Walecznych 68A Craft Beer Muranów Though still an area thick with beretwearing, dachshund-walking oldies, Muranów is fast catching up with the rest of Warsaw. Taking care of the craft beer angle is this newbie, a bi-level bar with warm tones and 16 taps of beery goodness. ul. Andersa 23, fb.com/craftbeermuranow

Cuda Na Kiju Where it all began. Summer catches Warsaw’s original tap bar at its best, with the courtyard of the former Communist Party HQ now home to an entirely different kind of party: on occasions find food trucks and film screenings, and all other times just a massive crowd getting sloshed on 15 types of tap beer. But even outside the sweaty months Cuda is worth the visit: drink inside a modern, glass cube that’s refreshingly contemporary. (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, cudanakiju.pl

Cześć It started as a café, but now Cześć is better known as being at the forefront of the new generation of ‘quali-tap’ bars – small little places with six or so beers on tap. The two owners, Piotrek and Kuba, take their beer seriously, so do expect plenty of new finds as well as traditional favorites from stalwarts like Artezan and Pinta. The laidback, neighborhood atmosphere is making it increasingly popular with a tight-knit circle of ex-pat drinkers. (C3) ul. Grzybowska 2 (through the side passage), czesc.waw.pl

Czeska Baszta Contained within a grotty bridge support, divey Czeska is permanently immersed in a foggy, yellow glow. Boisterous but extremely friendly, there’s a reason for all the man hugs and back slaps: everyone’s smashed! The frothy pints of lager are sourced from the owner’s favorite small town breweries, and the fridge kept stocked courtesy of his own cross-border forays. (E4) Tower 22A, Most Poniatowskiego,

Drink! Listings Drugie Dno The natural start (or finish) point of any Nowogrodzka pub crawl, head to The Double D for a space that conjures to mind a disused power station: sporting rugged brickwork and a scuffed style, the neo-industrial look is ramped up with the liberal use of steel girders, vintage voltage meters and toilets disguised as elevator shafts. Sixteen taps to drink through, many of them offering extreme drinking solutions from Europe’s most radical breweries. Looks great, tastes great, a factor that ensure a male-to-female ratio that feels roughly equal. (D5) ul.

Nowogrodzka 4

Drugie Dno Ochota Choice is thinner than the original (just eight taps), but there’s something here that really seems to work. Set over two floors, there’s a warmth and atmosphere that radiates throughout. An interesting design inspired by the original is matched with decent pizzas and a location down a leafy side street that’s gradually getting noticed for its neighborhood scene. (A6) ul. Tarczyńska 5/9

Goraczka Zlota Get down with the locals at Gorączka Złota, a steamy pub with a rowdy atmosphere. Touting the dimensions of a cabin boy’s quarters, this pungent, pokey den is one of the oldest bars in town.

Despite carrying many epic beers from Poland’s rebel brewers, there’s nothing faddish about GZ and it’s this sense of normalcy that lends it its enduring appeal.

(D5) ul. Wilcza 29, goraczka-zlota.com.pl

Jabeerwocky Steeped in multinational drunken babble, the super sociable Jabbers is famed for its innovative beer selection and convivial atmosphere. Mark it down as an absolute must-visit, especially if you’re a fan of stout and cider. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 12, taproom.pl

Kufle i Kapsle Found somewhere round the top of Warsaw’s hierarchy of craft beer bars, Kufle welcomes all, from entry level novices taking their first steps in the beery world to note-taking nerds conducting research for their blogs. Interiors are respectful of the building’s pre-war heritage and are thick with noise, clamor and the reas-

suring smell of spillage. The edgy beer selection becomes is even more radical when you look down in the fridge. (D5) ul.

Nowogrodzka 25 Kufle i Kapsle Powiśle Doing it in a way that feels shabby, gritty but yet totally cool, this is a bar that riffs on themes of industrial and retro to maximum effect. Ground floor: a small bar area with a secret strip of seating snaking back behind; upstairs, the kind of retro furnishings last seen when Brezhnev was wearing shorts. On tap, find a fluctuating choice of 12 crazy beers sourced from the kind of breweries that make Poland seem progressive. When you’re done, prove your allegiance to KiK by visiting their third venue in Żoliborz. (E3) ul. Solec 46A Małe Piwo Oleandrów’s reawakening began on this very spot! Opened six years back, MP preempted the craft beer trend to become one of Warsaw’s first places for something better than a pint of Piss-kie.

Looking wholly unfinished and fashionably distressed, it’s got that New York dive vibe down to a tee – you imagine The Strokes rolling in right after band practice.

getting brilliant beer that breaks brewing boundaries. For cheapskates, Polish options kick-off at approx. 13 PLN. (D4) ul.

Chmielna 7/9, fb.com/MikkellerBarWarsaw

Piw Paw We don’t like: the sweaty toilet, strange smells nor the scrum at the bar. We do like: the 24hr opening hours, humongous fridge and 50+ taps. Seen in the light it’s a little depressing, so visit at night when Parkingowa takes on the look of an endof-term street party. (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34 (enter from ul. Parkingowa), piwpaw.pl

Same Krafty Squashed into two narrow, rugged rooms decorated with benches and rough plaster walls, Same Krafty have rescued Old Town from big beer brands peddling piss.

Offering artisan alternatives, this intimate bar lures daring tourists looking to explore the more subversive side of Polish brewing. Sustenance comes by way of big wheels of pizza that are surprisingly good.

(D1) ul. Nowomiejska 10

for gentlemen

(D7) ul. Oleandrów 4

Maryensztadt Craft Beer It’s a mixed crowd of locals and tourists that gather in Maryensztadt, a large bar whose 12 taps showcase the highs (and occasional lows) produced by the brewery that gives this pub its name. Set across a series of cavernous chambers inside an attractive Old Town property, its not just beer buffs that it appeals to: sourcing their ingredients from small-scale farmsteads, the kitchen wing of Maryensztadt does a convincing job of representing the tastier side of regional Poland. (D1) ul.

Szeroki Dunaj 11

Mikkeller Bar Warsaw Light and bright the sparsity of the interior is a surprise: a classic case of less is more, here the punchline is given to the beer. That means twenty taps firing out a revolving roster of kickass beers that, thus far, have included lambic-style ‘SpontanPear’ and yuzu flavored Berliner weisse. It’s an utter geek-gasm for beer nerds. Prices for the Danish stuff start in the early 20s and soar upwards to reach eye-watering levels – in return, you’re

Playhouse Housed in a former subterranean bomb shelter, the talk now is of bombshells: namely the 57 stunners they’ve got listed on their books. Inspired by high class joints in London and Vegas, it’s a refined choice with a no-pressure atmosphere and door staff that don’t look like they’re going to kick your head in. (B3) Al. Solidarności 82A, playhouse.pl

live music

Hydrozagadka Set out in the wildlands of Praga, consider Hydrozagadka as the heart of unforced cool. Known for its alternative music scene, the low-ceiling and tight, crowded nature of it generate an electrifying atmosphere where the audience and band become one. Walking a fine line between industrial and straight out decrepit, the atmosphere is second to none: drinks flow, strangers meet and music smashes out: you can feel something special happening here. ul. 11 Listopada 22 warsawinsider.pl

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drink! Listings Klub Pogłos Arguably Warsaw’s No. 1 venue for alternative music, Pogłos checks all the requisite boxes: a divey, gritty look, a liberal atmosphere and an army of fans willing and eager to embrace the seamier side of night. The packed program of events runs from spoken word performances and vegan BBQs, to sweaty tribute concerts celebrating The Smiths. At other times, you’ll be listening to touring Berlin-based bands, hardcore DJs or psychedelic soul from the likes of King Khan And The Shrines. If it’s weird, it’s on. ul. Burakowska 12, fb.com/klubpoglos

vodka Dom Wódki Those expecting Dom Wódki to be a standard mucky shot bar are in for a surprise.

Sparkling with over 250 artisanal vodkas, find them incorporated into inspirational drinks mixed by Tomasz Małek, a world champion flair bartender. More than just show, the tastes are incredible. (C2) ul.

Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl

Meta Chains of old bog paper, Karol Gott album covers and other Communist keepsakes litter this shot bar. But for a real blast to the past, visit their Parkingowa venue for a full-on, Polski-style retro disco. It’s hilarious. ul. Mazowiecka 11 / Foksal 21 / Parkingowa 5

Pijalnia Havoc reigns in Pijalnia, and watching all the tears and tiffs on a Friday night is something of a spectator sport. Pickles and vodka are the essential order, while reading matter is supplied via commieera sports reports that are plastered to the wall. Many locations WuWu Open round-the-clock, this 24-hour bar is the place in which to enjoy a prodigious choice of vodka inside a chic, dimly-lit environment that resounds to the singalong hits of communist Poland.

Serving classic drinking bites (sour cream and herring, beef tartar, etc.) and an array of expertly fixed cocktails, it’s a spot that promises to become the place to be for a higher class of night owl. If this

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is gentrification, we’re all for it. (G1) Pl. Konesera 1

wine bars

Ale Wino!

Without doubt, peak time is the summer when drinkers congregate on a courtyard deck shielded by a sail. But winter ain’t so bad either with this covert wine bar unraveling to reveal a series of little chambers. The wine choice is comprehensive and it’s ably supported by some of the best cooking in the city: chef Sebastian Wełpa is one of Warsaw’s great, golden talents. (E5) ul. Mokotowska 48, alewino.pl

Bubbles Such is the style of Bubbles it feels like Valentine’s all year round: high on intimacy, it’s a charming ensemble of rickety crates and deep, dark colors. But the clincher, that’s the prodigious selection of champagne. Now while you’d usually expect a champagne bar to be filled with footballers wives and berks with fake tans, Bubbles feels inclusive, convivial and anything but vain. (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, bubbles.com.pl

Dyletanci Filled with immaculate, modern citizens that drive beamers and jeeps, everyone here looks pretty pleased with themselves – and after a drink, so will you. Aside from the sensational cooking of Rafał Hreczaniuk, join the good lookers for an exceptional wine list that includes a hefty offer from Poland (inc. wines from the proprietor’s own label, Dom Bliskowice).

(F5) ul. Rozbrat 44, dyletanci.pl

Kieliszki Na Hożej Pointing attention towards small and medium-sized European producers (Italian, in particular), sommelier Paweł Demianiuk has composed a wine list that’s interesting, smart but also comprehensible. Named in a nod to the 1,116 glasses that hang above the bar (we didn’t count, so don’t shoot the messenger), all wines are available by the glass. ul. Hoża 41, kieliszkinahozej.pl

Mielżyński Wine Bar Founded in 2004, this ivy-clad warehouse-

style enterprise lit the touch paper for Poland’s wine revolution. Emanating casual city cool, it’s still the yardstick against which all others are measured.

It’s a default choice for first dates, and if things go well then walk amid the shelves and pick something for later. (A1) ul.

Burakowska 5/7 (also on Czerska 12)

Nowina The striking interior that catches the eye from across the street – restored pre-war tiling, glinting surfaces, a world map rendered from corks and an engaging reddish glow all do their bit to lend Nowina the kind of atmosphere that’s missing in most local wine bars. Add to that an exciting international menu and a selection of over 400 wines and you have an absolute winner. ul. Nowogrodzka 4, nowina.waw.pl

Rusiko Wine Bar Designed to act as a casual extension of the neighboring Rusiko restaurant, this wine bar showcases Warsaw’s biggest selection of Georgian wine inside an interior that feels intimate, jazzy and highly atmospheric. Elaborate rugs, deep rouge in color, hang from tall sapphire walls, while impossibly high ceilings do much to generate a swirl of soft, muffled sound. A place of good mood and organic hospitality, it’s no surprise to learn that the bitey menu is an ample reflection of Rusiko’s award-winning reputation. (E5) Al. Ujazdowskie 22, fb.com/winebarrusiko

Winosfera Once a pre-war cinema, now a stunning wine bar / store with one of the most impressive collections in Poland: an expense account comes in handy. Equally notable is the ambitious fine dining menu of Jakub Adamczyk. (B3) ul. Chłodna 31 Winsky One of the strongest openings in recent months (on second thoughts, make that the strongest opening in recent months) presents a menu of itsty, teeny plates, a maverick selection of tap wines, top notch whisky, and an interior that’s all restrained velvety opulence. And then there’s the backdrop – nestled on the ground floor of The Tides development, windows face out onto the inky black waters of the river and the sparkling stadium just beyond. (F4) ul.

Wioślarska 10

do!

SAY IT WITH... PLANTS!

Why? Because flowers are sooo old-fashioned. Focusing on low maintenance air plants, owner Kamila Burchardt has accrued a number of big, leafy ferns, towering succulents, hard-to-find plants that are uncommon to Poland and accompanying accessories to lift up your home. Impressive in scope and outlook, your apartment won’t ever feel the same. And once you’re done with the greens, check out Kamila’s line of original jewelry – you won’t leave empty-handed.

Plantarium ul. Mokotowska 71, plantarium.pl

warsawinsider.pl

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FROZEN IN TIME

For a taste of ‘how it was’, get your skates on and head to Stegny, a fascinating relic of PRL Poland…

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Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2019

S

lammed by one critic as ‘an interactive museum of Communist Poland’, the ice rink at Stegny represents a remarkable blast to the past in a city fast-tracking itself into the future. Recently earmarked to host the European Ice Skating Championship, the facility swiftly lost that privilege after the government pulled the plug on a zł. 160 million plan to reboot it as a 6,000 capacity, state-of-the-art covered hall.

And so Stegny sits as it was.

Opened in 1980, it was designed

by Janusz Kalbarczyk, a former Olympic speed skater that fought in the 1939 defense of Warsaw.

Later, he helped organize the first post-war sporting events in Poland, and turned his hand to designing churches, schools and residential buildings. Sporting facilities were his specialty, however, and Stegny arguably his finest achievement.

More brutal than beautiful, it remains an intriguing glimpse into years gone by.

Tor Łyżwiarski Stegny ul. Inspektowa 1, stegny.com.pl

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

DO! Review

DO! events FESTIVAL Polin Music Festival 15-17 Feb @ Polin, ul. Anielewicza 6 A three-day celebration of music, the Polin Music Festival will present ‘new Jewish music’ whilst posing questions relating to the significance of Jewish identity to contemporary composers and musicians.

For details, see: polin.pl

CONCERT David Duchovny

EDITOR’S PICK Stop Smog 9 Feb @ Startberry, Grochowska 306/308

From the organizers: “a full day event dedicated entirely to the topic of smog, its consequences and how to stop it.

Our aim is to raise awareness, engage and provide space for young entrepreneurs that are environmentally-concerned, and to tackle the issue of air pollution. The event will be divided into two parts: an open panel discussion and a 6-hour hackathon.”

For further info, see: fb.com/startwarsaw

SCIENCE Body Worlds

Ongoing till 28 Feb @ PKiN, Pl. Defilad 1 A unique, scandalizing and often bizarre anatomical exhibition devoted to the human structure, Body Worlds reveals the inner secrets as to what lies beneath the human skin…

For details, see: bodyworlds.pl

CONCERT Another Pink Floyd

2 Feb @ Palladium, Złota 9 Celebrating the 40th anniversary of the release of The Wall, Kraków-based tribute act Another Pink Floyd will perform songs from the

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album to fragments of the Alan Parker film of the same name and psychedelic visuals.

Tickets from zł. 80 @ empikbilety.pl

TOURS Łazienki With Adrenaline

2 & 16 Feb @ Łazienki Park Join this Polish language evening tour to learn where vampires once gathered and the meaning of Łazienki’s Egyptian temple. These and other secrets of the park will be laid bare in this tour with a twist.

For info, see: lazienkizadrenalina8. evenea.pl

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2019

15 Feb @ Klub Stodoła, ul. Batorego 10 Though still best celebrated for X Files, Duchovny has demonstrated there’s more strings to his bow with both a bestselling book and a late blooming musical career. ‘Meet & Greet’ tickets also available for zł. 580.

Tickets from zł. 139 @ ticketmaster.pl

EXHIBITION Daniel Rycharski: Fears

Ongoing from 15 Feb @ Museum on the Vistula, Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 22 So says the PR: “This exhibition sees the first solo exhibition of Daniel Rycharski, an artist working at the intersection of diverse social worlds: countryside, queer culture, and the faith community.”

CONCERT Neneh Cherry

22 Feb @ Nebo, ul. Nowy Świat 21 Yes, her of Manchild and Buffalo Stance fame! Find her in Warsaw promoting her fifth album, Broken Politics. Says The Guardian: “in that beautifully snagged raw-silk voice, she sings about abortion,

refugees, gun violence and the ease with which conspiracy calcifies into assumed fact these days.

But it never feels heavyhanded.”

For further details, see: followthestep.com

CONCERT HappySad

23 Feb @ Palladium, Złota 9 Founded in 2001, Happysad have forged a name as one of Poland’s popular bands with three platinum and four gold-selling records to date. Cementing their status, their 2007 album Wszystko Jedno has since been named as one of the top 50 most influential Polish rock albums ever.

Tickets from zł. 59 @ palladium.pl

CONCERT Grandmaster Flash

24 Feb @ Klub Proxima, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 99 Seen as one of the great pioneers of hip hop, the legendary Grandmaster Flash lands in Warsaw as part of a wider global tour.

So it’s said: “Grandmaster Flash was hip hop in the same way Velvet Underground was punk. Or King Tubby was dub. Or Wiley was grime. They were predecessors, making the music before it even had a name.”

For tickets, see: klubproxima. com.pl

CONCERT Morcheeba

27 Feb @ Progresja, ul. Fort Wola The celebrated trip hop act arrive to Poland to perform tracks their latest studio album, Blaze Away, as well as beset-selling hits such as The Sea, Otherwise and Rome Wasn’t Built In A Day. Tickets zł. 119 @ fource.pl

DO! museums

M U S E U M O F WA R S AW

Copernicus Science Centre Featuring hundreds of interactive exhibitions, it’s a place that allows young and old alike to blast objects into space, experience an earthquake or steer exploratory robots. ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, kopernik. org.pl

CSW Situated in a baroque-style castle the center hosts artists from all over the world.

The on-site bookshop is of particular interest for artists and intellectuals. ul. Jazdów 2,

are taken on a trip around the world while music from days yore parps away in the background. Al. Jerozolimskie

yet never too overwhelming, the trail climaxes with vertiginous views of the Rynek below. Unmissable.

51, fotoplastikonwarszawski.pl

Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42, muzeumwarszawy.pl

Museum of Communist Life Lovingly assembled by its young owner, the museum is split into a few different sections: one devoted to state and subversive literature, and another that recreates an empty store typical of the times. Our highlight, though, is the recreation of a commie-era apartment.

csw.art.pl

NEWSFLASH: Relocating in Jan, see website for details), adventurewarsaw.com

Ethnographic Museum Considerably revamped to meet the demands and attention-spans of the 21st century sightseer, the Ethnographic Museum is a visual pleasure that showcases colorful costumes, fabrics and ceramics from Poland and beyond. ul. Kredytowa 1,

Museum of Praga The Praga Museum tells the story of the area with such charm and simplicity that it manages to leave an unlikely impression that’s as punchy as that of the big institutions. ul. Targowa 50/52, muzeumwarszawy.pl

ethnomuseum.pl

Fotoplastikon Thought to date from 1905, Warsaw’s Fotoplastikon generates 3D perspectives from a set of 2D images: visitors peer through an eyepiece and

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M U S E U M O F P R AGA

Museum of Warsaw Over 8,000 objects detail the story of Warsaw, and these include peculiar souvenirs, scale models, old postcards and recovered works of art.

Cohesive and comprehensive

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2019

National Museum Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars. Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw. art.pl

Polin Composed of eight galleries, each covers a different stage of local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day. Highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec synagogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical inter-war Jewish Warsaw street. Named the European Museum of the Year in 2016. ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl

Warsaw Rising Museum Cope with the crowds to discover the definitive story of the 1944 Uprising in town.

Exhibits range from a full-size

replica of a Liberator plane, to a sewer beneath the cinema screen and a slice of bread preserved from 1944.

And don’t miss the ‘City of Ruins’, a five minute 3D film which takes you on an aerial journey over devastated Warsaw. ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl

Wola Museum What was once a dreary old place has been rebooted as a smart communityminded museum and one of the most forward-thinking institutions in the capital.

Bringing the wider area of Wola alive, find engaging content that’s creatively presented: posters, family memorabilia and various media relating to the area. ul.

Srebrna 12, mhw.pl

Zachęta National Art Gallery Regarded as one of Poland’s most prestigious galleries, the Zachęta has a busy program of temporary exhibitions that frequently showcase some of the biggest names in domestic and international contemporary art. Pl. Małachowskiego 3, zacheta.art.pl

DO! Listings preschools

warsaw montessori family

Warsaw Montessori Schools

Accepting applications for our programs and locations: Infant & Toddler Tatrzańska 5a Badowska 19

American School of Warsaw American School of Warsaw provides a rich, meaningful and balanced educational experience through age-appropriate activities to students aged 3 to 5. For further information and/or to visit our school, contact:admissions@aswarsaw. org or 22 ul. Warszawska 202 (KonstancinJeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, aswarsaw.org

702 85 00.

The British Primary School of Wilanów Following the National Curriculum of England and Wales, this is the first School in Poland subject to the inspection of the UK Independent School Inspectorate.

Pupils receive British and, upon request, Polish reports/diplomas. The school follows a closed admissions policy and limits enrollment of one nationality to below 50% of each class starting from Year 1. ul. Hlonda 12, bsww.pl

Casa dei Bambini Badowska 19 Szkolna 16, Hornówek

Elementary Szwoleżerów 4

„Erdkinder” Middle School Tatrzańska 5a

Montessori High School

The British School Early Years Centre The British School provides EYFS classes from Pre-nursery (age 30 months) to Reception (5 years old). Children develop quickly and their Early Years practitioners aim to do all they can to help your child have the best possible start in life and become a lifelong learner. ul. Dąbrowskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646 7777 , thebritishschool.pl

2.5 to 6 years old, currently 45% of their admissions are international students.

The dedicated, IB-trained teachers deliver an innovative program (PYP) in English designed for modern world needs. The program offers a combination of Literacy, Maths, Social Studies, Science, Physical Education, Art, Music & Rhythmics, French and Polish classes. ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, canadian-school.pl

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations) Warsaw Montessori School Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have three green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin.

The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in earlychildhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob.

692 099 134, warsawmontessori.edu.pl

International Trilingual School of Warsaw Established in 1994, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fill-immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/saint-exupery.pl

Pytlasińskiego 13a Contact Office: 692 099 134 office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl

www.wmf.edu.pl

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Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2019

The Canadian School of Warsaw Preschool Welcoming students from the ages of

The English Playhouse The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów. The pre-school fol-

DO! Listings lows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old. For more info or to arrange a tour call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email: jnowak@theenglishplayhouse.com ul. Pływiańska 14a, tel. 22 843 9370, tep.edu.pl

Międzynarodowa Szkoła Podstawowa Argonaut This elementary school is open for children of all nationalities and backgrounds. It places a focus on learning English as well as additional languages, and has an attractive list of available extracurricular activities. ul. Radarowa 6, tel. 504 509 504, argonaut. edu.pl

Maple Tree Montessori Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, mapletreemontessori.pl

Montessori Academy for International Children An English-speaking pre-school (16 months to 6 years of age) with two locations. The school’s policy is to comply with Montessori standards, using the Montessori Method in English. The school’s philosophy is based on the joy of learning, which comes from discovering and furthering the individual development of each child. ul.

Królewicza Jakuba 36 (Wilanów), ul. Sadowa 4 (Konstancin), Open 8:00-16:45, tel. 502 315 022, montessoriacademy.eu

Montessori Stepping Stones An intimate, international, English-speaking preschool located in Powsin that follows the Montessori philosophy which emphasizes the individuality of each child.

Children from the ages of 1.5-years-old to 6-years-old are welcome, with the school’s goals aimed at facilitating the individual development of the child, both physical and mental, through a system that is focused on the spontaneous use of the human intellect. ul. Przyczółkowa 140, tel. 728 939 582, montessoristeppingstones.pl

Trilingual Pre-school and Nursery “Three Languages” Center The only trilingual pre-school and nursery teaching English, Spanish and Polish through total language immersion. All educators are native speaker pre-school

Primary, Secondary & IB

Open Day

Thursday 14 February 2019 th

9:00-11:00am | 1:00-3:00pm

To register visit our website or email: openday@thebritishschool.pl

www.thebritishschool.pl warsawinsider.pl

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DO! Listings teachers. The comprehensive curriculum follows American, Spanish and Polish curriculum standards. The pre-school was awarded European Language Label in 2012. ul. Karowa 14/16 lok 6 (3-6 year olds); ul. Cicha 5 lok 1 (1-2 year olds), tel. 517 872 682, 3languages.pl

Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, aswarsaw.org

schools Akademeia High School Akademeia High School is an international high school in Warsaw, offering the chance to study for A Levels and iGCSEs. The school focuses on developing both students’ academic abilities and their artistic, athletic and leadership potential. ul. Ledóchowskiej 2, akademeia.edu.pl

American School of Warsaw ASW is a premier college-preparatory international school

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that offers a PK-12 curriculum, including the IB Diploma Program in Grades 11 and 12. Students are inspired and challenged every day by experienced and dedicated teachers, who provide enriching learning opportunities in a world class facility. For further information contact: admissions@ aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00. ul.

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2019

The British Primary School of Wilanów Following the National Curriculum of England and Wales, this is the first School in Poland subject to the inspection of the UK Independent School Inspectorate. Pupils receive British and, upon request, Polish reports/diplomas.

The school follows a closed admissions policy and limits enrollment of one nationality to below 50% of each class starting from Year 1. ul. Hlonda 12, bsww.pl

The British School Premium international school established in 1992 by Nord Anglia Education. The curriculum is designed to provide the highest academic quality of education. They follow the English National Curriculum, adapted to the needs of their international student community: from Primary through to the Secondary Key Stages to the IGCSE examinations and a well-established International Baccalaureate (IB) Diploma Program. ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, thebritishschool.pl

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations) Warsaw Montessori School

DO! Listings Guided by trained specialists, students will be responsible for managing their household, operating small businesses, caring for local flora and fauna as well as domesticated animals, taking charge of the younger children and much more. “Adolescence Program” activities, integrated with academic studies, help students discover their inner strength to meet life’s real challenges. ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, warsawmontessori.edu.pl

Casa dei Bambini Warsaw Montessori School A leader in the field of Montessori education, well-trained teachers guide students to independent and successful learning with both English and bilingual classrooms provided. Located just steps from Lazienki Park, the school resides in vibrant surroundings near to museums, embassies and natural settings which provide students with learning outside the classroom. ul. Szwoleżerów 4 (grades 0-4), tel. 608 488 420; ul. Tatrzańska 5A (grades 5-8),

tel. 604 137 826; ul. Pytlasińskiego 13 (high school), tel. 787 095 835, wmf.edu.pl

The English Primary The English Primary is designed specifically for children in the primary education ages, just as children experience in England but in an international

Accepting applications for Nursery to Year 9 bsw.com.pl +48 221 110 062 ul. Hlonda 12, Warsaw admissions@bswilanow.org

monnet international school

PADDINGTON BEAR KINDERGARTEN

IB World School no 001483

on's ngt LUB i d Pad EN'S C EN LDR CHI OW OP N

Education for a better world

Belwederska 6a, Warsaw

www.maturamiedzynarodowa.pl/przedszkole warsawinsider.pl

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DO! Listings community. Pupils are taken through the key learning stages so that they can achieve to the best of their ability through a fun learning experience. The Core Curriculum subjects include English, Phonics, Science, Mathematics, French, PE and Swimming, Music, Personal, Social and Health Education. ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel.

784 037 808, tep.edu.pl

The Canadian School of Warsaw International Elementary and Middle School Located on two campuses in the Mokotów this is the only authorized IB School with PYP programs taught in English and Polish. French is taught as a third language. Offers a wide range of extra activities, a summer school, and employs a full time psychologist.

Provision is made for additional Polish and English support. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create the perfect learning environment. ul. Bełska 7, tel. 692 411 573 / 885 420 044, secretary@canadian-school.pl or secretary.olimpijska@canadian-school.pl

International School of Warsaw The International School of Warsaw offers education for children from 3 to 18-years old. ISW provides a holistic

education that combines a high quality international curriculum based on the International Baccalaureate with extra scholarly activities such as outdoor classes, robotics or STEAM. Lessons are conducted in English or French as main a language. Additionally, students can choose foreign language classes in Polish, Spanish, German, Chinese, Russian, or French. ISW is the only school in Poland accredited by the European Union. ul.

Mazowiecka 43, isw.edu.pl

ments the International Baccalaureate Program from kindergarten level all the way through to secondary school. The fully-qualified staff are committed to delivering only the highest standards of education. ul. Stępińska 13, tel. 22 852 06 08, maturamiedzynarodowa.pl

Warsaw Montessori School Focuses on the Montessori curriculum with an education based on the integration of conceptual learning and real-life experiences. ul. Szwoleżerów 4, tel. 22 841 3908, warsawmontessori.edu.pl

adult learning International Trilingual School of Warsaw Established in 1994, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fill-immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/saint-exupery.pl

Monnet International School Located in Mokotów, the Monnett is the only school in Poland that imple-

Cup of Polish Personalized Polish classes adapted to meet your needs. Also home/company visits and online courses. For a free 60-minute trial email: kontakt@cupofpolish.com. cupofpolish.com Klub Dialogu Using over ten years of experience, the leaning process becomes an adventure at Klub Dialogu. ul. Ordynacka 13/5, klubdialogu.pl Together School With locations in both Kraków and Warsaw, Together have seven years of experience teaching Polish and English for everyday life, business and general communication. Mariensztat 8

Hello Learn Polish with the best teachers in the biggest school i n Wa r s a w.

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Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2019

DO! Listings HEALTH & BEAUTY gyms

It's Time to Learn Polish

Exuma Gym Warsaw’s latest luxury gym features equipment by Life Fitness and Hammer Strength, a wellness zone, private parking and stunning views of the National Stadium across the river. ul. Wioślarska 10, exumagym.com

Gravitan Gravitan features state-of-the-art equipment, group classes and numerous specialists ranging from trainers and physios to beauticians and dieticians. Pl. Szwedzki 3 & ul. Malborska 39, gravitan.pl

Holmes Place Energy High standard equipment, personal training and group classes. Six month membership available for approx. zł. 200 per month, though prices are subject to change. ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), holmesplace.pl

Holmes Place Premium Three ‘premium locations’, with the Hilton and Regent branches housing a 25-meter pool. Sauna and steam room facilities are available in all all three, as are a varied timetable of classes plus personal training. ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel), ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), holmesplace.pl

spas & salons Polish for Foreigners kontakt@cupofpolish.com cupofpolish.com tel. +48 508 700 508

Clochee Natural, organic cosmetic brand that’s been dubbed a ‘pro-health project for your body and soul’. Using only certified ingredients, Clochee’s beauty products bring you closer to nature. Newlylaunched, their flagship store also houses a top-notch spa facilities. ul. Nowolipki 13,

wide range of cosmetics which are based mainly on the deeply nourishing Haitian Moringa Oil. Created by Zofia PinchinatWitucka, a Haitian-Pole whose life goal has been to bring the two countries closer, Creamy’s cosmetics are vegan and cruelty-free and do not contain any synthetic dyes nor fragrances, petroleum components, sulphates or silicones.

Creamy SPA offers original Haitian facial massage based on Creamy’s vegan cosmetics. ul. Chmielna 6 (Warsaw), creamy.pl

ouch!

DEPILACJA WOSKIEM

Ouch!

Experts in waxing, Ouch! aim their offer at ‘busy women looking for express treatments with lasting effects who, at the same time, appreciate a sense of intimacy’. ul. Belwederska 32, ouch.pl PARDON MY FRENCH

manicure pedicure

Pardon My French Manicure and pedicure treatments with high quality lacquers and an awareness of global trends: if you need an endorsement, Paul McCartney visited when he was in Poland! ul. Belwederska 32; Bonifraterska 8; ul.

Mokotowska 56, ul. Wilcza 3 pardonmyfrench.pl

The Pedicure Place A luxury pedi/manicure clinic with room for 10. All the latest OPI varnishes and over 200 colors guarantee you’ll find the latest in styling and nail care. ul. Pokorna 2, pedicure-place.pl

Retro Day Spa Royally indulgent interiors hark back to a different century, though the treatments are all hi-tech and include packages for pregnant women among the variety of beauty offers. Al. Ujazdowskie 18/11, retrodayspa.pl

spa.clochee.com/spa

sport

Creamy Creamy Creative Cosmetics offering a

Fly Spot Ever wanted to know what it’s like to fly?

As in really fly?? Find out inside a vertical wind tunnel where fans whirring at a speed of up to 310 km/hr will send you warsawinsider.pl

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DO! Listings shooting up in the air. Wspólna Droga 1 (Mory), flyspot.com

women in addition to a full schedule of four other types of yoga to suit experience and expectations. ul. Śniadeckich 18,

Hangar 646 Hangar 646 touts 50 interlinked trampolines, a ping pong zone, ball pools and even a snowboard slide where visitors hurtle down a ramp before splashing down on an inflatable mattress. ul. Wał

yogarepublic.pl

Miedzeszyński 646, hangar646.pl

ul. Wspólna 4 (Wesoła), wesolandia.pl

swimming Aquapark Wesolandia Features a recreational pool, kids pool and a 25 meter pool for more serious swimmers. Also on-site, a water tube, Jacuzzi, tennis and fitness facilities.

Stacja Grawitacja Set over 3,200 sq/m of space, this indoor trampoline extravaganza sends visitors bouncing down ‘ninja obstacle courses’, sky slamming basketball hoops and jumping around engaged in dodgeball shenanigans. ul. Bohaterów Września 12, stacjagrawitacja.pl

yoga & pilates Astanga Yoga Studio Established in 2005, this studio specializes in ashtanga and also offers physiotherapy, Hawaiian massage, reflexology and kalari chikitsa. ul. Gałczyńskiego

ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), holmesplace.pl

RiverView Wellness Centre Another members only pool, and this one is really worth the membership cost – it’s the highest pool in Europe. Stunning views of Warsaw make this a swim to remember. ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinen-

Pawła II 61, bikram.pl

Merliniego 4, wodnypark.com.pl

FASHION accessories

Powsińska 106, diamondpilates.pl

Padma Studio A 60 sq/m studio offering classes in dynamic yoga, Afro Latin dance, Samba, Tai Chi and body / mind awareness. ul.

Wilcza 32/100, padmastudio.pl

Yoga Republic This studio combines the old school with the new, plus a nice dash of prewar charm with a touch of the east. Yoga Republic offers classes for pregnant

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Ania Kruk You could say it runs in the family. Harnessing her talent for design, the name of Ania Kruk (daughter of Wojciech, founder of the W. Kruk jewelry store chain) has become synonymous with high quality jewelry that’s both fun and affordable.

Working with different materials ranging from silicone, leather, brass and assorted gemstones, her handcrafted designs set out to prove that you don’t need gold or diamonds to look top class. ul. Mokotwska 46, aniakruk.pl

tal), riverview.com.pl

Bikram Yoga A new, modern studio equipped with lockers, showers and the requisite hot room. Practitioners of all levels – from newbie to old hand – are welcome. Al. Jana Diamond Pilates The first professional Pilates studio in Poland continues to be the pacesetter.

Offers group and individual training, the latest equipment, dietary consultations and workshops for instructors. ul.

Andy & Mag Luxury eyewear inside a pretty boutique on high-end Mokotowska. Notable brands include Victoria Beckham, Linda Farrow and Dita, as well as more niche offers from the likes of LA Eyewear, Andy Wolf, Theo and many more besides. Various locations, inc. ul. Mokotowska 51/53, andyandmag.pl

Holmes Place Premium All the ‘premier’ outposts of Holmes Place tout swimming pools, though most agree it is the one in the Hilton branch that’s the best. ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel),

Wodny Park When looking for a pool, most look no further: on-site find an Olympic swimming pool, recreational pool complete with artificial river, slides and tubes, a Russian ‘banya’ zone, not to mention other attractions like bowling and squash courts. ul.

4, astanga.pl

Alba’s high performance, self-care essentials harness three generations of herbal wisdom to create a range of cosmetics inspired by ideals of health-powered holistic beauty. ul. Mysia 3 (second floor)

di Trevi Boutique Aimed at both him and her, di Trevi present the freshest Italian footwear releases from prestigious brands such as Ballin and Loriblu. Piękna 11A, ditrevi.pl HOS&me Luxury jewelry and the best in the biz. In stock: high end treasures from Nialaya, Lene Bjerre Design, Ti Sento, Christensen and Dryberg/Kern. ul. Mokotowska 63, mokotowska63.com

Lilou Modular jewelry made simple, and a must for all Warsaw fashionista. ul. Mokotowska 63, lilou.pl

Agent Provocateur The boutique is stocked full of the latest collection – gorgeous lacy bras with scrumptious attention to detail, matching panties, teddies and a bunch of strappy get-ups you can only get away with if you’re very fit or very confident, but preferably both. ul. Mokotowska 59,

Malton & Kielman This leather workshop and store has a history dating from the 19th century and prides itself on luxury bespoke bags, shoes and accessories whose style is influenced by the classical British and Italian look. ul. Chmielna 6, maltonkielman.

agentprovocateur.com

com

Alba 1913 Founded in 1913 by Mieczysław Rychlicki,

Minty Dot Top quality Polish jewelry composed

DO! Listings using gold, silver and natural stone. Contemporary in style, these are accessories that radiate class and craftsmanship while at the same time exuding a subtle sense of timeless romance. ul. Bracka 5,

hopelessly addictive flea market offering wartime militaria, religious icons, chinaware, furniture from unverified periods of history, and even the occasional suit of armor. ul. Obozowa 99, gieldastaroci.waw.pl

porary history. Tinged with a retro 60s atmosphere, their offer isn’t just based around Polish and English-language reading material and extends further into quirky gifts.

Lamus Another antique bookstore that comes filled with leather-bound tomes, regal looking scrolls and elaborate maps. Also known for their pre-war prints and paintings of Warsaw before it was knocked down. ul. Nowomiejska 7

Super Salon

mintydot.pl

Mo61 Billed as a ‘perfume laboratory’, Mo61 allows customers to create their own scents under the expert guidance of staff trained by Zygmunt Marczewski (“the best nose in Poland”!). ul. Mokotowska 61, mo61.pl

Pingle Optyk A collection of hand-selected designer eyewear that is serious in terms of quality control, but entirely whimsical when it comes to design. ul. Hoża 40 Pracownia Szczotek Opened in 1952, this bespoke brush store has been passed down the family line.

On offer: everything from paintbrushes to moustache combs to hairbrushes. And the owner is a character as well: “I don’t have time for Facebook,” he says, “it would get in the way of my tango lessons!” ul.

Poznańska 26, khaja.pl

Pracownia Czasu A true market leader with brands including Paul Picot, Graham London, Vulcain, Cuervo y Sobrinos, Ulysse Nardin and so many more. ul. Wiejska 14, pracowniaczasu.pl Schubert Rings, bracelets, necklaces and watches produced using the finest Baltic amber.

Or for a unique gift, how about an amber chess set or an amber cigarette lighter? ul. Piwna 12/14, ul. Piwna 26, ul. Świętojańska 11, worldofamber.pl

Lapidarium Cavalry swords, pre-war Judaica, Orthodox icons, books, scrolls, helmets, cameras, chess sets, jewelry… The opportunities for rummaging are endless. ul. Nowomiejska 15/17, lapidarium.pl

Prima Porta Antiquities At the top end of the scale the Germanrun Prima Porta specialize in pieces from ancient Rome, Greece, Egypt, Mesopotamia and Asia. ul. Hlonda 8, primaportaantiquities.com

Antykwariat na Tamce Presided over by a super-friendly hippy-looking dude, consider this a mine of rare vinyl (Beatles, Hendrix, Sabbath, weird Polish PRL stuff), as well as 15,000 comics and books. ul. Tamka 45B,

Ania Kuczyńska Ania Kuczyńska is becoming well known for her highly fashionable, minimalist clothing designs. The store also carries adorable baby clothes and various accessories. ul. Mokotowska 61 Balthazar An atelier, boutique and private tailor with several unique brands. Book your meeting by calling tel. 535 545 728. Al. Rzeczypospolitej 18/68, balthazar.pl

Czuły Barbarzyńca A cafe / bookstore hybrid that you’d imagine doing well in Paris. The Polishlanguage choice is broad, and whilst the number of English-language could be extended everyone finds the atmosphere irresistible. ul. Piwna 20/26, czuly.pl

Cafardini Complete suits start at zł. 2,600 and rise to zł. 4,500, depending on the fabric. Using the finest natural raw materials, Cafardini even offer a ‘suit spa’ – a special care package that will see you suit regain its fresh look if it has been worn intensively. ul. Grzybowska 5A, cafardini.com

Fundacja Bęc Zmiana A small curiosity shop selling trendy trinkets and a fair amount of art and architecture books with an accent on modern Warsaw. ul. Mokotowska 65/7, Księgarnia Bullerbyn A supremely cheerful bookstore peddling everything from pop-up books and fairytales to history and legends. The ace up their sleeve is a sizeable selection of English-language literature: and that includes The Gruffalo! ul. Chmielna 10, bullerbyn.com.pl

antykwariat-tamka.pl

Kolo What looks like a soggy tent city transforms each Sunday morning into a

boutiques

books

beczmiana.pl

antiques

ul. Chmielna 10, supersalon.org Filled with beautiful titles, Super Salon dedicates itself to books, magazines and albums covering weighty subject matter such as photography, design, erotica and architecture. Represented publishers include Phaidon, Gestalten and Steidl.

Radio Telewizja ul. Andersa 29 Radio Telewizja stock a range of literature that cover topics from local art and architecture to contem-

Chiara A solid assortment of Marc Jacobs and other top international designers such as Michael Kors and Jil Sander.ul. Mokotowska 49 & Pl. Uni Lubelskiej, tel. 22 647 0394, chiara-online.pl

Cloudmine Presenting fashion lines and design items from a personally selected pool of Polish designers and artists, Cloudmine’s philosophy is built around support for young, independent and upcoming designers. “We don’t chase trends and one-season brands,” they says, “instead, we love classics, minimalism and style.”

And that’s exactly what you’ll find inside this beautiful Saska K. boutique. ul.

Paryska 17, cloudmine.pl warsawinsider.pl

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DO! Listings Just Paul Exuding confident femininity, this energetic brand is characterized by its light and unobtrusive elegance and sense of effortless nonchalance. Founded in 2012 by designers Justyna and Paula, Just Paul seeks to address the needs of the modern woman with its line in chic but casual clothing and more dazzly evening wear. ul.

Mokotowska 61, justpaul.pl

Likus Concept Store The Likus Concept Store brings ultra-chic designer clothing to Warsaw. The latest collections from Diesel, D2, Ferre, Stone Island, Sophia Kokosalaki and J. Lindeberg are all available and presented in this stylish three-floor department store. ul. Bracka 9 (Vitkac), likusconceptstore.pl

Lolly Pop Boutique Latest fashion from See by Chloe, Calvin Klein, Calvin Klein Jeans, Melissa, UnitedNude, Bronx and many more. For online shopping, check: sklep.lollypop.pl Al. Jerozolimskie 169 lok 45A (C.H. Blue City, level 1), lollypop.pl

LoveYa This upcoming Polish fashion brand aims itself at ‘women who value originality and like to play with styles and colors’. Noted for their use of high-quality materials and fabrics, their founding tenets are based upon elegance, creativity and taste. ul.

Mokotowska 46A, loveya.pl

as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal. ul. Burakowska 15, reykjavikdisMoliera 2 Boutique Brands: Alexnadre Birman, Alexandre Vauthier, Aquazzura, Balmain, Beach Bunny, Burberry, Buscemi, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Cult Gaia, Francesco Russo, Gianvito Rossi, Golden Goose, Herve Leger, Isabel Marant, Kenzo, Maison Michel, Marc Jacobs, Manolo Blahnik, Moncler, OneTeaspoon, Self-Portrait, Tod’s, Tory Burch, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon, Zimmermann. ul. Moliera 2, moliera2.com

Non’chalant Playing up to the ideals of classic Italian and British style, Non’chalant present an array of accessories aimed at the dapper gentleman: high quality ties, cravats, pocket squares, socks and scarves. ul.

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Brands: Beach Bunny, Buscemi, Canada Goose, Casadei, Christian Louboutin Men, Dsquared2, Fay, Gianvito Rossi, Hogan, Kenzo, Moncler, Mr & Mrs Italy, OTS, Ralph Lauren, Tod’s, Tom Ford, Tory Burch, Valentino, Yves Salomon. Pl. Trzech Krzyży

maare.eu

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riskmadeinwarsaw.com

Sabotage Those in-the-know know Sabotage as one of the places to buy funky deconstructed denim and sportswear pieces. Here you’ll find a wide array of unique clothes, hats, belts and handbags in a variety of fabrics and styles that hail straight from New York, London and Tokyo. ul. Burakowska 5/7 Safripsti Formerly a make-up artist in London and Paris, owner Magdalena returned to Poland to open a vintage boutique. Buying wholesale – meaning prices are kept in check – her fashion store presents finds like authentic cheerleader outfits and Hawaiian shirts for summer, not to mention a great selection of denim, parkers and so forth. ul. Oleandrów 3

3/4, plactrzechkrzyzy.com

Ptasia 6 A unique ladies concept store showcasing the works of both emerging and established independent Polish fashion labels such as Eva Grygo, Confashion, Horror! Horror!, Kasia Miciak and Polanka.

QπШ - Robert Kupisz One of Warsaw’s hottest fashion icons, and a trip here soon explains why. The exclusive, handmade garments are a guaranteed head turner. ul. Mokotowska 48/204 (courtyard), robertkupisz.com

com

Maare On-trend Polish female fashion label with a flagship boutique on, it almost goes without saying, Mokotowska. Known for their boho chic look and flowery dresses, the brand has fast gained a name for clothing that’s edgy and upmarket yet also highly affordable. ul. Mokotowska 46,

Risk. Made In Warsaw Mixing modern shapes with expert tailoring, the idea was to create a look that’s both comfortable yet chic. That they’ve been featured in the likes of Vogue and Elle suggests that this target has been accomplished. ul. Szpitalna 9,

Koszykowa 67, nonchalant.pl

ul. Ptasia 6, ptasia6.pl

Lui Store Elegant female fashion store with brands including Attico, Rixo London, 3.1 Philip Lim, Les Coyottes de Paris, Jonathan Simkhai, as well as lesser-known names making their first in-roads into the world of high fashion. ul. Mokotowska 26, lui-store.

trict.com

Redford and Grant This multi-brand fashion store offers clothing and accessories from the newest collections from all the major international designers such as Dior, YSL, D&G, Gucci, Miu Miu and Prada. Metropolitan Building, Pl. Piłsudskiego 3, redfordandgrant.pl

Reykjavik District Chic, well-cut menswear for all occasions

See Me Boutique Regarded as one of the stalwart boutiques of Mokotowska, See Me’s collection includes the latest lines from Joseph, Diane Von Furstenberg, Daniela De Marchi and many others besides. Scented interiors and expert service (who know how to brew a coffee) make it the ideal place in which to browse the afternoon the away. ul. Mokotowska 51/53, seeme.com.pl

Snobissimo Top labels from design houses like Jimmy Choo, Sonia Rykiel, Les Copains, Sergio Rossi etc., etc. With shoes and accessories all provided for, it’s a one-stop shop to re-boot your wardrobe. ul. Mokotowska 28 Teresa Rosati Al. Witosa 31 (Panorama), teresarosati. com.pl Elegant cocktail dresses, gowns for special occasions and beautiful fabrics from one of Poland’s best-known designers. Ready-to-wear and custom-made services at discreet location in Sadyba by appointment.

DO! Listings Wake Up The Bear Stylish ‘travel practical’ clothes as designed by the acclaimed Viola Spiechowicz. Featuring natural fabrics and multipurpose add-ons, this is the ultimate in comfort clothes. ul. Mokotowska 41, wakeupthebear.com

Zaremba Originally inspired by the Savile Row style, Zaremba have been fitting out gentlemen of Warsaw since 1898. Under Maciej Zaremba, the brand has moved forward to take into account global trends while also respecting its past. ul.

Nowogrodzka 15, zaremba-krawiec.pl

home & design Collage The idea is simple: to present all a woman needs under one roof. Specializing in beauty products and design pieces, Collage’s portfolio ranges from jewelry and fashion to succulents and tableware.

Always stylish, the underlying quality of the products isn’t for dispute. ul. Rozbrat 28/30 DecoDialogue Working with both large manufacturers and smaller European design studios, DecoDialogue present a carefully sourced collection of furniture, textiles glassware and ceramics inside a beautifully outfitted space brimming with both statement pieces and more discreet little luxuries by the likes of Louis Poulsen, Lumio, Łyko, Klippan and Ton. ul. Kopernika 8/18, decodialogue.pl

bits and pieces that really stand out. ul.

Poznańska 3/14, futureantiques.eu

Green Bells Equally inspired by Asia as the Victorian terrariums of botanist Dr. Nathaniel Bagshaw-Ward, Green Bells present miniature eco-worlds kept perfectly preserved inside ornamental glass: an ideal statement piece for house and home, your very own ‘forest in a jar’ will set you back from zł. 120 upwards. ul. Grzybowska 16/22, fb.com/greenbells

malls & department stores Arkadia Not many Polish malls do it better. Stores inc. Mango, Lacoste, Guess, Hilfiger and Peek & Cloppenburg. Al. Jana Pawła II 82, arkadia.com.pl

Galeria Mokotów Stores inc. Calvin Klein, Hollister, Hugo Boss, New Balance, Royal Collection and Timberland. ul. Wołoska 12, galeriamokotow. com.pl

Lata 60-te Specializing in expertly refreshed furniture from the PRL era, it’s become a favorite of design mavens looking to trick out their home with a pre-loved retro statement piece. ul. 11 Listopada 54, lata60-te.pl

Le Pukka For interior inspirations take a look at Le Pukka: highly original furniture and decorative pieces for the home come from the likes of Smeg, AreaDeclic, HK Living and Zuiver. ul. Solec 58/60, lepukka.pl Makutra To know and not to cook, is not to know.

This store has everything a master chef seeks: from tagines to mezzalunas, it’s got the lot covered. Huge stock of cook books and kitchenware. ul. Oleandrów 5, makutra.com

Galeria Północna Białołęka’s first major shopping center includes Poland’s first outpost of Hamley’s, as well as stores such as Forever 21, Lagerfeld and Guess. Part of the ‘fourth generation of shopping centers’, add-ons include a rooftop garden and some of the best kid’s facilities on Poland’s retail map. ul. Światowida 17, galeriapolnocna.pl

Klif House of Fashion Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has a line-up of top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko. ul.

Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl

Plac Unii One of Warsaw’s latest mall counts Armani Jeans, Liu-Jo and Pandora amongst its upmarket tenants. ul.

Puławska 2, placunii.pl

Porcelanowa Award-winning, contemporary Polish porcelain produced by cult, internationally recognized brands such as Aoomi and Fenek. ul. Kredytowa 2, porcelanowa.com

Fenek Mostly working with porcelain, Agata Klimkowska and Tosia Kiliś founded Fenek in 2014 with their brand growing a cult status ever since. Open two days a week (see their FB for details), visit their workshop to find a range of highly personalized artisanal works. ul. Tamka 48B, fb.com/fenekstudio

Wiertnicza 155, scandinavianliving.pl

Future Antiques These stylish, mid-century pieces have been refreshed using artisanal techniques to return items to their fullest aesthetic potential. Though much of the furniture is sourced from France, Italy and the Czech Republic, it’s the Danish

Spod Lady This shop’s a beauty, and brims with collectibles that have seen classic PRL keepsakes given a contemporary update.

Books, films, bags, toys and general items for the home inside this cult courtyard store. ul. Chmielna 26, spodlady.com

Scandinavian Living Representing upcoming Swedish, Danish and Finnish designers as well as several truly iconic names, Scandinavian Living presents such finds as tablecloths from Lazy Linen, ceramics by Bloomingville, and fun tableware from Muminki. ul.

Mysia 3 Set in Poland’s former censorship office, the line-up includes Scandinavian fashion in Cos, shoes from My Paris, unconventional fashion from Nenukko and more. ul.

Mysia 3, mysia3.pl

Vitkac Poland’s first luxury department store gathers the world’s top designers under one roof, with brands including Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton, Stella McCartney, Stone Island and Rick Owens. And that’s the tip of the iceberg. Vitkac, ul. Bracka 9, likusconceptstore.pl

Złote Tarasy Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Jatomi Health and Fitness Club. ul. Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl warsawinsider.pl

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DO! Listings accommodation 5-Star Hotels

Indigo

MaMaison Residence Diana

ul. Smolna 40, tel. 22 418 89 00, indigowarsaw.com

ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 9100, mamaison.com/diana

InterContinental

Sofitel Warsaw Victoria

ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, warsaw.intercontinental. com

ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8011, sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com

Between Us Bed & Breakfast Westin

Bellotto ul. Senatorska 13/15, tel. 22 829 6444, hotelbellotto.pl

Mamaison Le Régina Hotel Warsaw ul. Kościelna 12, tel. 22 531 6000, mamaison.com

B&B

Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, westin.pl

ul. Bracka 20, tel. 22 8285417 (from 10 a.m. to 11p.m.), between-us.eu

Boutique B&B

4-Star Hotels

ul. Smolna 14/6, tel. 22 829 4800, bedandbreakfast.pl

Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 6306, warsawmarriott.com

Airport Hotel Okęcie

Regent Warsaw Hotel

Hampton by Hilton

ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, reservations@regentwarsaw.com, regent-warsaw.com

ul. Wspólna 72, tel. 22 317 2700, hamptoninn3.hilton.com

relocation companies

Marriott Bristol Hotel ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1000, hotelbristolwarsaw.pl

H15 Boutique ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 553 8700, info@ h15ab.com, h15ab.com

ul. 17-ego Stycznia 24, tel. 22 456 8000, airporthotel.com.pl

AGS Warsaw Radisson Blu Sobieski

Sheraton ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6100, sheraton.pl

pl. Zawiszy 1, tel. 22 579 1000, sobieski.com.pl

CorstJens Worldwide Movers Mecure Warszawa Centrum

Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel Hilton Warsaw

ul. Julianowska 37, Piaseczno, agsmovers.com

ul. Złota 48/54, tel. 22 697 3999, mercure.com

ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555 / 800 44 11 482, hilton.com

ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888, radissonblu.com/hotelwarsaw

Hotel Warszawa

Raffles Europejski Warsaw

ul. Krucza 28, tel. 22 583 2100, mercure.com

Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9, tel.

22 470 03 00, warszawa.hotel. com.pl

ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, tel. 22 255 9590, raffles.com/ warsaw

Courtyard by Marriott Hotel (Airport)

Mercure Grand Warszawa

ul. Nowa 23, Stara Iwiczna, corstjens.com

Euro Move International Movers ul. Kineskopowa 1, euromove.pl

ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 0100, warszawacourtyard.pl

Novotel Warszawa Centrum

w W a r s a www.city-tour.com.pl

ul. Marszałkowska 94/98, tel.

22 596 0000, novotel.com, accorhotels.com

Yellow Double-Decker Bus

Invites you to experience a panoramic tour of tourist attractions of the capital of Poland, Warsaw, in a relaxing and comfortable way.

Polonia Palace Hotel

Traveling over the course of approximately 1,5 hour, a double-decker bus will take you past many beautiful and interesting places of Warsaw, such as its interesting districts, palaces and churches, monuments and museums, parks and historical cemeteries, as well as the Jewish historical sites.

Warsaw Plaza Hotel

A GPS 12 language audio-guide, will give explanations and accompany you to make your ride a more adventurous, exciting and an unforgettable one.

Excellent Hop on Hop off and one trip service operates every day all year round.

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100 Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2019

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ul. Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 8160, moveonerelo.com

Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. 22 318 2800, poloniapalace.com

ul. Łączyny 5, tel. 885 886 100, warsawplazahotel.pl

apartments InterContinental

Line approved by municipal authorities.

www.city-tour.com.pl

Move One Relocations Also immigration assistance, fine art shipping, pet transport and consulting services. Check their website for more details.

ul. Emili Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, warsaw.intercontinental.com

Relo Planet International, domestic and office removals, corporate and individual relocations, fine art shipping, storage, insurance, as well as a full range of assistance services (immigration, etc.). ul. Batalinou Platerówek 3, reloplanet.com

DO! Guide

MURAL IN THE P R AGA D I S T R I C T

Jewish Historical Institute, meanwhile, frequently hosts thought-provoking exhibitions linked to the wartime suffering of the Jews.

COMMUNISM

THE ESSENTIALS...

Cut through the chaff and time manage your visit as effectively as possible.

THE OLD…

The Old Town, raised from the rubble after WWII, is symbolic of this ‘phoenix city’, and fully deserving of its UNESCO listed status. The Royal Castle is a maze of fancy chambers and important paintings by the likes of Rembrandt and Canaletto, while the Museum of Warsaw offers a peerless peek into the complexities of Warsaw’s story.

Close by, check out the city that was at Park Miniatur, a beautiful exhibition displaying intricate scale models of the city’s pre-war architectural glories. To soak in the extravagances of Poland’s imperial years, take a walk around the immaculate Łazienki Park or, further out, visit Wilanów Palace: frequently nicknamed ‘the Polish Versailles’, the landscaped gardens are as unmissable as the former royal chambers and that’s especially true come winter when they’re turned into a dazzling labyrinth of pulsating lights. Finally, tap into the very essence of the Polish soul by visiting the new Vodka Museum on the right side of town.

WWII

Memories of WWII still hang heavy.

Learn about the 1944 Warsaw Uprising at The Rising Museum: it’s deservedly rated as among the most important cultural institutions in the country.

Lesser known, the Old Town’s ‘Heritage Centre’ documents the destruction of the city, while three separate museums, Pawiak, Szucha and Katyń, cover equally somber chapters in Poland’s dark history. To get up close and personal to military hardware, visit the Polish Army Museum.

JEWISH WARSAW

Though largely flattened, the former Jewish Ghetto contains numerous memorials, among them the Umschlagplatz monument marking the spot where trains departed for the gas chambers of Treblinka. The one synagogue that survived (Twarda 6) is the center of local Jewish life, while the innovative Polin museum covers all aspects of this nation’s complex and often fraught Jewish history. The

A full tour of Stalin’s Palace of Culture is a must: the basements (protected from rodents by a team of feline guardians) are wild whilst the top-floor viewing terrace unimpeachable. Check the more ambient side to Communism in the Neon Museum and then head across town to check the new location of the Czar PRL Museum (czarprl.pl). A charmingly eccentric look at everyday life under Communism, this fantastic museum could yet become one of Warsaw’s quirkiest attractions. Equally weird, check out a former nuclear bunker by visiting the once top secret Obiekt Alfa (obiektalfa.pl). Lastly, take a look at what’s on at Dom Spotkań z Historią, a small exhibition space that specializes in quirky photo exhibits that explore Warsaw’s past – though subject matter varies to cover differing chapters of the city’s history, the PRL era receives the lion’s share of attention.

MODERN WARSAW

Wonder amid romping kids and whirring machines in the Copernicus Science Centre and after, visit the university library to explore the stunning rooftop garden – though the cosmic upper floor is off-limits in winter, the lower section is also worth the detour. The Museum of Modern Art is a short walk away whilst across the water, the state-of-the-art National Stadium conducts regular tours and thrills both stadium nerds and football fans alike.

ART

Serious art lovers flock to the National Museum for its determined presentation of art through the ages – don’t miss the brilliantly retro Gallery of Polish Design. The Zachęta, the Modern Art Museum and CSW are more alternative with captivating exhibitions that excite non-conformists.

That said, some of the city’s best art is found on its walls: Praga and Muranów are both especially well-known for their large format wall murals. warsawinsider.pl

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last impression

THREE MINUTES WITH… Jimi Ogden

You’ve inherited the Palace of Culture from an unknown, distant relative. What are you going to do with it?

A night club, though that might be quite a controversial idea considering Poland’s conservative society, but… This could be the best club in the world… anything goes!

Your workshop: describe it…

When you walk into my workshop you’ll see ideas everywhere that I have brought to life: some functional, some abstract, some new ways of making. I love experimenting with materials. I’m not interested in the neat and tidy, I’m interested in chaotic places because without them I don’t see the fruits from my experiments or designs.

You’ve been given the keys to Marty McFly’s DeLorean: where are you heading?

I’m traveling to the future where the air is clear and the streets are car-free. And it’s compulsory to smile!

The street you live on – what’s there?

Cars, fire engines, ambulances, hipsters, homeless people, non-stop noise, dogs (loads and loads of dogs), trees, a small lake, playgrounds, drunks on the benches and candles on the floor.

A weird arthouse film is being made about your Warsaw life. How does it begin. Set the scene...

A beautiful morning. A cafe. Somebody is drinking hot chocolate and the camera shows us that it smells nice.

Scene Two: the first rays of sunlight fall through an oval window in the kitchen. The camera follows the light as it falls onto the floor and then pans across it to a big room.

I’m lying on the sofa, pleasing myself. Suddenly, the wife enters. Freeze-frame. Black screen.

SHUTTERSTOCK

Describing himself as an ‘musician, artist, carpenter and creator’, British craftsman Jimi Ogden can be found presenting Rzecy Od-Nowa on HGTV or on stage with his band Jimi & The Lumberjacks.

104 Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2019