Warsaw Insider September 2018 #265

Warsaw The Capital’s Original City Magazine Since 1996

SEPTEMBER 2018

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No. Snap A Selfie In The New Heart of Warsaw

265 09/2018

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The NIFTY FIFTY!

Your definitive list of Warsaw essentials...

AQUAZZURA ALEXANDRE VAUTHIE ALEXANDRE BIRMAN ALEXANDRE BIRMA BALMAIN ANYA HINDMARC BURBERRY AQUAZZUR BUSCEMI BALMA CASADEI BUSCEM CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN CASAD CULTLOUBOUT GAIA CHRISTIAN FRANCESCO RUSSO ELIE SAA GIANVITO ROSSI FRANCESCO RUSS HERVE LEGERROS GIANVITO ISABEL MARANT HERVE LEGE KENZO ISABEL MARAN MAISON MICHEL KENZ MARC JACOBS KOTU MANOLO BLAHNIK LORO PIAN MR MAISON & MRS ITALY MICH ONETEASPOON MANOLO BLAHN SELF –ONETEASPOO PORTRAIT SELF TOD’S – PORTRA TORY BURCHTOD VICTORIA BECKHAM TORY BURC ZIMMERMANN VICTORIA BECKHA YVES SALOMO

tel.: 228277099, www.Moliera2.com

editorial INFRONT

Editor-in-chief Alex Webber

4 Take A Number 6 News 8 Architecture:

insider@warsawinsider.pl Art Director Kevin Demaria insider@warsawinsider.pl

Kacper Ziółkowski 10 Book Excerpt: Vodka & Apple Juice

Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com Contributors: Stuart Dowell Maria Mileńko Michał Miszkurka Ed Wight

FEATURES

4 50 Things Every 1 Varsovian Must Do!

Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com

EAT!

39 Review:

L

et’s be honest, September is the month we all really fear. With the holidays filed away in a Facebook album, DRINK! the serious stuff begins: work. So allow me to use the 75 Review: opportunity to welcome you back to the everyday horror

Relax na Wilczej of your daily grind. Of course, that’s not the only welcome 7 6 Review: coming from my direction. As is customary, this is also Wozownia the time the city traditionally sees a new batch of expats landing to take their first faltering steps in this alien country. It’s fitting, therefore, that this issue we bring you an excerpt from former DO! Insider contributor Jay Martin’s forthcoming book detailing her first 91 Review: few days in this baffling city. Beyond that, we’ve also whistled up

Biography: A Game an epic feature shortlisting your 50 Warsaw ‘must-dos’, explored the new chambers of the Museum of Warsaw and tracked down the 92 Review: Museum of Warsaw hottest bar in town. Dovetailing that, as ever find the most accurate and comprehensive nightlife and restaurant listings to the town. Till 94 Events next time!

96 Museums 109 Guide: Essentials 110 Map 112 Insider Finds

Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

on the cover Directed at newbies and veterans alike, our flagship feature runs down the fifty things you simply must do in Warsaw. For instance, snapping a selfie at Pl. Europejski!. (Illustration by Michał Miszkurka)

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ey Account Manager K Agata Sicińska asicinska@valkea.com ey Account Manager K Joanna Chmielewska jchmielewska@valkea.com ey Account Manager K Karolina Zielonka kzielonka@valkea.com Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com Subscription 12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland.

Orders can be placed through: insider@warsawinsider.pl Printed by Zakład Poligraficzny TECHGRAF Tel. (17) 225-28-69

VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies. All information ©2018 Warsaw Insider.

PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT

Mizu 40 Review: LAS

SEPTEMBER 2018

BURBERRY CANADA GOOSE CASADEI CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN MEN FAY GIANVITO ROSSI KENZO MONCLER MR & MRS ITALY ONETEASPOON RALPH LAUREN TOD’S TORY BURCH VALENTINO BURBERRY CHILDREN DSQUARED2 KIDS KENZO KIDS MONCLER KIDS

Pl. Trzech Krzyzy 3/4 tel.: +48 226221416, www.PlacTrzechKrzyzy.com

number take a

IN NUMBERS

120,000 The number of people who watched the parade live

1992

The year the parade was resumed following a 45-year ban under the communist regime

1966

The last year in which reenactors participated in an official Polish military parade

1920

The year of the Battle of Warsaw, the triumph that Army Day commemorates

1,000

The number of soldiers that took part

200

The number of military vehicles on show

100

The number of planes that flew overhead

TANKS A LOT! Over 120,000 onlookers descended on central Warsaw on August 15th to show their support for the nation’s armed forces. First held in 1923, the annual Army Day parade commemorates the 1920 Battle of Warsaw, an epic triumph that saw Poland beat the odds to vanquish Soviet forces as they approached the gates of the capital. Widely credited for saving the rest of Europe from the clutches of Lenin, the victory has been recognized by leading historians as one of the most important battles of the 20th century.

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Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2018

4

The number of other countries that took part in the parade (USA, Great Britain, Croatia and Romania)

3

The number of bridges closed for the event

PHOTOGRAPH BY BARTOSZ KOĹ ACZKOWSKI (INSTAGRAM/KOLACZKOWSKIPHOTOGRAPHY)

900

The number of reenactors that joined the parade

by Wilamowski Chłodna 15 OPOLE FESTIVAL has become the IN NUMBERS talk of the town.

Trained in the world’s top Michelin starred restaurants by some of the best chefs around, Chef Arkadiusz Wilamowski has worked for Alain Ducasse at the three star Dorchester in London, at Gérald Passedat’s three star restaurant in Marseille and Pierre Gagnaire’s two star Sketch London.

The French and international menu features sophisticated technique, wholesome Polish ingredients, and an exceptional wine list. Placing an emphasis on seasonal, top quality ingredients, Wilamowski’s menu changes frequently to include such ingredients as fresh lobster – one of the chef’s favorite culinary items.

A degustation menu is available for those who wish to sample the chef’s full creativity.

CHŁODNA 15 BY WILAMOWSKI • UL. CHŁODNA 15, WARSAW • RESERVATION@CHLODNA15.PL • TEL. 730 737 644

News

RETRO REVIVAL

One of Warsaw’s best-loved neons has been illuminated once more following a full renovation bankrolled by the Galeria Foksal Foundation. Originally unveiled in 1961, the sign depicts a female volleyball player throwing a ball and has come to be regarded as one of the defining features of Pl. Konstytucji. Designed

by Jan Mucharski, one of the fathers of Polish neon, the sign was first installed to advertise a sports store. After years of neglect, artist Paulina Ołowska funded its initial restoration in 2006 through the sale of her own artwork. “I liked that it features a strong, dynamic woman,” said Ołowska at the time, “and I was keen to show that neons from that era could be seen as equals to contemporary works of art.”

OFF THE WALL

From Spyware To Tableware

A firm from the town of Bolesławiec in the south west of Poland has revealed that it was asked to supply the CIA with customized tableware featuring the agency’s logo. Speaking for the Artistic Handicrafts Cooperative, Helena Smolenska said the company had accepted the commission with ‘joy and disbelief’, adding that the complex project took months to execute. Active since 1950, the firm nowadays exports over 90% of its supply with over half that figure earmarked for the American market.

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TOP KEVIN DEMARIA, PRESS MATERIAL (2)

With politicians and the public still bickering over the future of the Palace of Culture, an independent candidate for the post of Warsaw Mayor has blown everyone out of the water with his personal proposal: to cover the façade with a giant mural. Other policies Paweł Tanajno hopes to introduce include New Year’s parties to be held every weekend, an end to red traffic lights and free Hawaiian pizza – delivered to your home by civil servants and politicians.

Architecture News

AN APPLE A DAY

PRESS MATERIAL

The ongoing debate about Pl. Defilad took a new turn in August after a master’s thesis by a graduate of the Silesian University of Technology took the web by storm. The work of Kacper Ziółkowski, the project envisions transforming the square into a socially-minded Apple facility that would fill both commercial and public roles. Working under the supervision of MSc. arch.

Janusz Poznański, Ziółkowski’s idea has rapidly gone viral…

“I SPENT A LOT OF TIME ANALYZING APPLE’S FACILITIES and determined that the company realizes such projects in places that are important for people: they offer not just commercial services, but also those that are purely public – they create places that can be used for concerts, classes, screenings, etc. Through this Apple are able to create a stronger relationship with people. Pl. Defilad fits perfectly into company’s strategy: not only is it an area that can be categorized as a centro-creative object but it’s also in need of revitalization.

Is my project socially responsible? I think so. Look at the Apple stores built so far: some of the best architects in the world have been involved, and the result has been the creation of unique, innovative buildings that aren’t just commercial but also keep the public in mind.

Of course, I realize that this is part of the company’s marketing policy, but why should that make a difference? We need to break through the ‘hate wall’ and see beyond just the logo. All along, it was my always intention to demonstrate that an important urban space could be simultaneously used to benefit both the private sector and the general public. When we think of public space, we shouldn’t be afraid of looking towards less traditional solutions.”

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Book Excerpt

Vodka & Apple Juice

Covering her three-year stint as a diplomat’s wife in Warsaw, former Insider contributor Jay Martin has put pen to paper to record her adventure in the heart of central Europe. Between glamorous cocktail parties and ambassadorial shenanigans, Jay set out to get to know quirky, difficult, fascinating Poland, with its impenetrable language and sometimes unfathomable customs.

A winner of the City of Fremantle T.A.G. Hungerford Award, her debut book Vodka & Apple Juice hits shelves in September.

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Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2018

PRESS MATERIAL

T

om and I, a café, Warsaw’s Old Town Square. Slender houses in golden plaster, an old couple on a bench throwing bread crumbs to pigeons, buskers with accordions, geraniums on windowsills. The sun warmed my face, through a red-and white parasol advertising what I presumed was a Polish beer brand. The center of the town in the center of the country in the center of Europe. If you were going to live in Europe for three years, this is exactly how you wanted it to look. And that’s exactly what I was going to do.

‘We made it,’ I said, dragging my eyes away to look at Tom. ‘We sure did,’ Tom said.

He squeezed my hand. It was a bright July day, and we were the world’s most newly minted diplomats. Or one newly minted diplomat, and one new diplomatic wife. I closed my eyes and breathed in warm, fragrant air. Poland even smelled good. A stocky waiter approached with an order pad. I sat up straight.

‘Dwa cappuccino, proszę,’ I said, and smiled at Tom. He winked at me. My first words in Polish in this country.

Never mind that one was Italian.

‘Shshshshshshsh,’ the waiter replied. A torrent of Polish with nary a vowel in sight. ‘Proszę, nie rozumiem.’ Please, I not understanding. My second Polish phrase in this country.

‘Will you be paying by cash or card?’ he said.

‘Cash,’ said Tom. The server turned to leave.

‘Proszę pana,’ I called him back. ‘Um ... what that is saying in Polish?’ I asked, in Polish. More or less. ‘Gotówką,’ the server replied, more slowly. ‘Go-toofkan,’ I repeated after him. Cash. Not even two hours here, and a new word!

Not a bad effort. I smiled at Tom again.

With his tall, slim frame and olive skin courtesy of some Spanish ancestry, he stood out as foreign here. Being blueeyed and blonde, I seemed to fit in well enough. Although, from the women

Book Excerpt I could see around me, it seemed I would need some more fashionable clothes and a bit more makeup to be inconspicuous. I reminded myself that, unlike them, I’d stepped off the last of three consecutive long-haul flights a few hours earlier and my body clock thought it was two in the morning.

‘I married a computer nerd, and now here we are in Poland as diplomats!

How did that happen?’ I said.

‘My mid-life crisis, wasn’t it?’

‘Well, I’m glad your mid-life crisis involved a career change, not a hot blonde.’

‘I married my hot blonde seven years ago.’

A flock of pigeons flew past. The old couple who’d been sitting on the bench had doled out all their crumbs. The man helped his wife to her feet and they shuffled past, he steadying her over the rough cobblestones.

‘Dziękuję,’ I thanked the waiter, when our order arrived. Those eighteen months of Polish classes were finally paying off. Whatever else my time here was going to involve, I was definitely going to nail this language. Everything in our house in Canberra had been labelled in Polish – our kettle a czajnik, our wardrobe a szafka. Tom and I had started texting each other tak and nie, not yes and no – although that was about all I’d managed to teach him so far. There was no pretending it was going to be easy; my teacher, Agnieszka, was given to apologizing for the language’s excessive complexities, and even our textbook had been called Ach, ten język Polski – Oh, This Polish Language.

But I was determined to get every cent’s worth out of this experience, and that meant learning Polish. Grosze, I meant.

I was determined to get every grosze’s worth out of this.

‘Anyway, you can hardly talk. I thought I’d married a gogetter career woman. Now here you are, a diplomatic wife,’ Tom said.

‘Yeah, well, your go-getter wife went and got out of that career just in time, I think.’

The waiter brought us our order. Polish coffee. Two words that, to me, sat as comfortably together as teenagers on a first date. There was a lot riding on this.

Whether or not I could get a decent coffee would be a big factor in determining

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if Poland and I were going to get along.

I took a sip. Smooth, milky, not bitter.

Perfect. Perfect for me.

‘We haven’t been dropped in Vienna or Paris by accident, have we?’ said Tom. ‘Where are the potato queues?’

‘And isn’t there meant to be snow?’

I remembered the first winter Tom and I had spent in Canberra, after moving there from temperate Perth. How we’d struggled to get ourselves out of the house on the few mornings it dropped just under zero, and we had to scrape ice off the car. Neither of us could have imagined that our next move would be somewhere even colder. Agnieszka told me it got so cold in Poland sometimes that you had to wear two beanies! Surely she was exaggerating? It seemed hard to imagine today, when children and dogs splashed about in an open air fountain, screams and barks of delight echoing around the square. As hard to imagine as that this Old Town – rynek in Polish – had been razed to the ground in the war.

It had been painstakingly rebuilt, giving no hint that it hadn’t stood here just like this for hundreds of years, watching over its neighbor, the Vistula River, the whole time.

‘Hey, we should go up to Gdansk one weekend soon. It’s supposed to be nice.

There’s even a beach there,’ I said.

‘That’s a great idea. But ...’ Tom looked over the top of his glasses at me. ‘You know this weather’s not going to last.’

‘I do. We don’t have to do everything in the first week, that’s all.’ But there was no holding me back. I’d been planning this for eighteen months. Pouring over Google Maps every lunch time from my office desk, imagining all of the places I could go when I was finally here – no longer Canberra, a city that didn’t even have an international airport. When I’d finally escaped my predictable, suburban life, and moved to Warsaw!

The waiter brought our bill, and Tom handed him a crisp note.

‘Don’t you have any change?’

We shook our heads, and his brow creased. We pounced on the coins he returned with, turning them over in our hands to get to know them a little before leaving them on the plate. So that was what a grosze looked like.

‘How was your coffee?’ Tom asked.

‘Dobra!’ I said. Yes, Poland and I were going to get along just fine.

Whether or not I could get a decent coffee would be a big factor in determining if Poland and I were going to get along.

I took a sip. Smooth, milky, not bitter.

Perfect. Perfect for me

Published by Fremantle Press, and with its release date scheduled for September 3rd, order your copy of Vodka & Apple Juice at fremantlepress. com.au. For more on the author and her latest escapades, visit: jaymartinwrites.wordpress.com.

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Relive… The Past

Warsaw likes to dress-up… and not just for a night out. Covering all aspects of Polish history, historical reenactment groups don’t need much prodding to dust off shields, sabers, muskets and flags. The anniversary of the 1944 Uprising, the 1920 Battle of Warsaw and the 1410 Battle of Grunwald have all become dates to watch. Elsewhere, May’s Night of Museums (a time when over 200 cultural institutions open their doors for free) just wouldn’t be the same without the presence of hundreds of actors clattering about in period costume.

Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2018

50 Things Every

Varsovian

Must Do!

With the annual August shutdown at an end, Warsaw returns to work in September. Adding even more significance to the month is the number of new arrivals who’ ll be landing at Chopin Airport to embark on new postings in the capital of Poland. If the outside world considers Januar y to be the beginning of the calendar year, then ever yone agrees that in Warsaw it’s September. With that in mind, this issue we’ve magicked up a nifty fifty musts that all should complete before they can claim their Medal of Ser vice. Not just for rookies but for veterans as well, you haven’t conquered Warsaw till you’ve experienced the following…

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50 THINGS

DISCOVER… PRAGA

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While the streets of old Praga survived the outright wartime destruction that effected much of Warsaw’s left bank, the post-war plan to repopulate the area with out-of-towners and ne’er-do-wells was never going to end well. While the rest of modern day Warsaw walked the road to riches, Praga was left to fester as a rotting remnant of the toxic past. Not anymore! No longer the lawless bandit land of yesteryear, the area’s stop-start regeneration has reached a unique point in time: still miles away from overt gentrification, it retains a raw, gritty identity whilst simultaneously juggling a new role as an arty, creative hub.

For its spiritual heart, first visit ul. Ząbkowska, a street filled with elaborate courtyard shrines, peeling tenements and the swank rising form of the Koneser Vodka Factory.

Here, the stunning Polish Vodka Museum fits perfectly inside a wider complex that includes a Google campus and the groundbreaking Zoni restaurant. But to plug into the area’s eccentric soul, pop into the shabby W Operach Absurdu to cavort with drunken playwrights and aspiring musicians.

Culturally speaking, the Praga Museum is essential, and gives visitors a brilliant insight into both the history and soul of the area: don’t miss the rooftop view of the legendary bazar down below. It’s here that Warsaw used to trade everything from guns and passports to wedding dresses and slippers. Beyond that, explore the side streets, where bullet pitted apartments stand next to revamped dwellings such as the elaborate Pod Sowami – itself now an awardwinning restaurant that’s reprised several local recipes in a modernized form. And, of course, head north, where three subdued bears plod around a concrete island just a stone’s throw from the onion-domed Orthodox Church.

Finally, think Praga – think music. Traditionalists should seek out the musical monument to the Praga Band, a clothcapped five-piece that once entertained on the streets and courtyards. Too old fashioned? Then instead head to Hydrogazadka, a place of crazy nights and innovative sound.

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Support… your local team

Legia Warszawa are the self-proclaimed kings of Polish football, and taking in a match at Łazienkowska 3 is a must: not least to listen to the lusty, pre-match rendition of the club anthem, Sen o Warszawie.

Matches against historic rivals such as Lech Poznań, Wisła Kraków and Górnik Zabrze get especially heated, with pyro and banner displays frequently adding to the hair razing atmosphere.

Champions at the start of the millennium, Polonia’s fall from grace has been so spectacular that even their own fans have largely deserted them. So forget them entirely, instead, head to Hutnik, a 6th tier side worth visiting for several reasons: first, it’s free, second, their stadium is quite an extraordinary concrete relic half-eaten by nature. Bring your own beer and enjoy.

Attention all beer monsters!

Warsaw-based groundhopping blog Kartofliska.pl turn out for occasional cup matches and one-off games. Usually attracting 300 or so pissheads, it’s a great day out featuring tubby players, wild challenges and good-natured revelry in the stands. Expect zero trouble but plenty of drinking. In a nutshell: grassroots football at its best.

Playing at the Don Pedro Arena, eighth-tier Zły Warszawa are Poland’s first ‘democratic’ football team. Founded on tenets of social responsibility, their multi-ethnic team includes a chef, violinist, banker and psychotherapist. Crowds peak at 200 but the hardcore sure know how to make a din: find drums, flags and thumping tunes. At times, watching feels like a street party with some football in the background!

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Who knows, maybe it’s a hangover from communism?

Either way, the city is a stickler for rules and regulations. Of the more common to fall foul of, crossing the road before the little green man says so is among the most frequent. And Łazienki Park? Don’t even think of stepping onto its billiard green lawns. The ‘look but don’t touch’ ethos even applies to the city’s fountain park between the Old Town and the river. You can tell a true Varsovian as someone who doesn’t give a damn about these or the billions of other decrees you’ll find in the city (disclaimer: the Insider follows the law to the letter!).

PHOTOGRAPH BY AGNIESZKA BŁOŃSKA

BREAK… A LAW

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LEAVE… A LOVELOCK

While other global cities are clamping down on the soppy ritual that involves dreamy couples attaching padlocks to bridges Warsaw, so it seems, just doesn’t give a hoot. Most Świętokrzyski has appeared in dozens of commercials since opening in 2000, though it is its associations with cheesy rom-coms such as Tylko Mnie Kochaj and Nigdy w Życiu that have seen it come to be regarded as the local ground zero of the lovelock fad.

RIDE… AN ESCALATOR

Not just any old one, but the first in Poland! Running from the mouth of the W-Z tunnel all the way up to Pl. Zamkowy, the capital’s original escalator was marketed as a triumph of socialist technology when it opened in 1949. Seen as a major tourist attraction at the time (hey, communism really wasn’t much fun), the ‘moving stairs’ remained a novelty for years to come.

Reopened in 2005, original reliefs celebrating SovietPolish friendship have been preserved, as have boorish commie era regulations warning children and those with heart defects against repeated use. warsawinsider.pl

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50 THINGS

CHECK… IN ON FACEBOOK

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DRIVE… DOWN KAROWA

As straight as spaghetti, Karowa street is a helter skelter thrill of hairpin bends and bumpy cobbles: at its climax, the Stanislawa Markiewicz viaduct is the iconic mouth of Powiśle with its ornate architecture making it a favorite landmark among serious photographers.

Hala Koszyki remains the biggest check-in round town, though if you’re looking to boost your social media credentials then Hala Gwardii ain’t too far behind.

Pl. Zbawiciela’s popularity might have waned since the days it was known as Pl. Hipstera, though it’s credibility still remains.

Then there’s Poznańska street, hands down the city’s acknowledged bastion of effortless cool.

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The sensible choice when hunting for dinosaurs in Warsaw would be to visit the Geological Museum. But come on, who wants to see bones and unconvincing models when you have the craziest dinosaur in town menacing the corner of Banacha and Żwirki i Wigury. He’s there to mark the location of a rival museum (Stanisław Józef Thugutta Geological Museum), one whose collection includes a load of rocks gifted by Tsar Alexander I.

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PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT

HUNT… A DINOSAUR

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INSTAGRAM… ICONIC STAIRS

There’s something weirdly and undefinably magical about stairwells – and my God, don’t they look good on Instagram. Share our weird passion? Then don’t miss any of the following: Katyń Museum: documenting the 1940 massacre, the Katyń Museum is an architectural marvel, one that’s rounded out by a magnificent stairwell.

Most Gdański: completed in 1959, this bridge features an entrancing spiral staircase that’s a favored backdrop for ‘Just Married’ couples.

Kłopotowskiego 38: this historic 19th century tenement was once occupied solely by Jewish residents. Known as ‘the emerald staircase’, its defining feature is a ghostly but beautiful glimpse into the past.

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GET… ARTY

Outside of the established big hitters, Warsaw has a thriving independent arts scene, a point that’s apparent with a visit to the likes of Galeria Foksal, Leto and Raster. But for something really crazy, visit Galeria Forty/Forty (fb.com/ProjektFortyForty), an unsupervised Tsarist brick fortress whose vaulted, dank interiors have been turned into a spontaneous gallery of street art.

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50 THINGS

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MARVEL… AT GARGAMEL’S CASTLE

Widely decried as the most grotesque building in Warsaw, TVP’s headquarters on Woronicza 17 are a staggering tribute to Gargamelizm, a vulgar architectural style seemingly unique to post-communist Poland. Known by many as The Tower of Babel, this chaotic glass carbuncle has to be seen to be believed.

Explore… Both Sides Of The Wisła

On your left: revamped riverside boulevards that have been dubbed as among the best in the world. Come the sun, the party doesn’t stop till the season changes. On your right: wild natural beauty in its untamed form. Contrasts don’t come any sharper – be sure to check both.

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shot by a German sniper in 1944, is said to fleetingly appear pining for her insurgent lover. But if you’re really serious about a ghost hunt, then make the short journey to Otwock. Buried deep in the woodland is With so much blood spilled Zofiówka, a disintegrating on the streets of Warsaw Jewish psychiatric hospital it naturally follows that whose story involves ghosts aren’t hard to find. experimental electroshock The most famous of all therapies, Nazi executions, lurks on the back balcony dead nuns, moving pictures of Morskie Oko 5. It’s here and creepy, viral videos. that Hanka, a teenage girl Bad things happen here.

SEE… A POLISH GHOST!

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Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2018

JOIN… A QUEUE

It’s said two things will survive a nuclear holocaust: cockroaches and the queue outside Manekin.

Lining up outside the latter before being seated for pancakes has become something of a local rite-of-passage, and you haven’t lived in Warsaw until you’ve experienced this pleasure. Mind you, this isn’t the only time you’ll find the locals forming a single file. For the biggest queues in town, wait for May’s Night of Museums to come around or February’s Tłusty Czwartek. Better known among foreigners as National Donut Day, don’t be startled to find hundreds of people massing in (dis)orderly lines outside their favorite donut store – anticipate something between chaos and combat.

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A Walk

Impossibly wide roads, nutty cyclists, meandering oldies, cracked pavements, neverchanging red lights and minefields of dog poo serve to make Warsaw a hard walk. That said, there’s several smashing options. Disregarding the obvious (Old Town, the riverfront, etc.), don’t miss the following: Having struck off the Finnish Houses and the intricately clipped gardens of Park Ujaz-

PIMP… UP YOUR CUPBOARD

Lined with boutiques and stylists, Mokotowska has become synonymous with luxury retail. Especially popular with the established doyens of Polski fashion, look out for names such as Robert Kupisz or Ania Kuczyńska. Away from your closet, pimp up your shelves with stunning Polish porcelain from Porcelanowa close to the Zachęta.

dowski, top off an early evening prowl by heading down Agrykola. It feels particularly special in colder weather, when halos of light form around the 19th century gas lamps that flank this plunging, leafy street.

Once a red-light district known for pimps, prostitutes and punch-ups, Mariensztat was rebuilt after the war as the city’s first post-war housing project. Fringed with pastel

colored buildings, it’s filled with quirky elements (a cat mosaic, a statue of a hen-holding woman, etc.) and feels the perfect antidote to touristy Old Town.

The back-to-basics values preached by Le Corbusier are a feature of Saska Kępa, the posh suburb south of the stadium.

Precise in their style, the interwar dwellings lining Obronców and Katowicka are emblematic of the district.

18 BEAT… THE BUZZER

Sometimes, sightseeing in Warsaw requires patience and persistence: take Hoża 70. Use charm and / or deceit to trick your way past the gate to see what’s known as Domek Baby Jagi.

Set inside the courtyard, and hemmed in by teetering tenements, this small cottage-like building is one of the city’s hidden gems.

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50 THINGS

SHOOT… SOME SHOTS

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Duh, you’re in Poland: it’d be rude not to. Shot bars abound in town, but to really get to the bottom of the country’s soul then why not add a little culture to your boozing. Featuring a slick, commercially aware approach (as well as ‘drinking goggles’ demonstrating the effects of too much!), the Polish Vodka Museum in the former Koneser distillery is a great primer that details the highs and lows of the national drink. After, head to the WuWu bar next door for round-the-clock shots served in swanky surrounds.

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Stay… Lucky!

See that glued-up bell on ul. Kanonia? Stitched up after crashing down from St. John’s Cathedral during the war, it’s now common practice to circle it three times with your finger on the top before making a wish – presto, your dreams will come true.

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ENJOY… THE SILENCE

Built as a temporary solution to house architects working on the post-war reconstruction of Warsaw, the Finnish Houses (ul. Jazdów) have doggedly survived to become one of the town’s greatest little secrets: a picturesque community of cute wooden chalets, they offer a serene oasis of calm in the very heart of the city.

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PICK… UP A BARGAIN One man’s junk is another man’s treasure. Ponder that while you pick through the merchandise at Sunday’s Kolo Antique Market: prepare for communist vinyl, antiques in different stages of disintegration, creepy war finds, general tat and occasional gems. Much lower down the scale, head to Bazar Olimpia for ultra-budget odds and ends (rusty bayonets, empty pictures frames and dented cutlery). Both feel like an anthropological experience.

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Follow…

In The Footsteps Of Napoleon

Missed by many, the steep stone stairwell that leads from the Rynek towards the river is where Napoleon once strolled in 1806. It was here, at the bottom of the stairs, the Frenchman is said to have stared towards the horizon contemplating eastern conquests. Once a favorite hangout of 19th century painters, today the Kamienne Schodki offer a quiet solace from the tourist herds that stampede across the square.

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BECOME… A PINBALL WIZARD!

Featuring over 30 machines blinking and beeping in riotous discord, visitors to the Warsaw Pinball Museum (pinballstation.pl) clatter through a clanky metal door to be met with a kaleidoscope of retro noise and color. Great fun and hopelessly addictive, it’s a strong candidate for the nerdiest night in the nation!

Count… The Mermaids

She’s everywhere. Warsaw’s iconic symbol and historic guardian appears on everything from cabs and buses to ashtrays and flags. The most famous mermaids of all, though, are cast as statues: there’s one in the Rynek, one on Karowa and another at the mouth of Świętokrzyski Bridge. The one you won’t see is the original Picasso drew on a trip to Warsaw in 1948. Surprising his hosts on a tour of a prototype housing estate in Koło, the artist climbed a ladder and sketched a hammerwaving mermaid. “My God it was massive,” exclaimed one eyewitness, “her bosoms were like two balloons.” Annoyed by the number of people knocking on their door for a glimpse, the couple that owned the apartment eventually hired a handyman to obliterate all trace.

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WITNESS… A CITY GROWING

Once a no-man’s land of abandoned factories and empty plots, Wola is in the process of reinventing itself as Warsaw’s new CBD. Touted as the city’s most dynamic area, its aggressive growth spurt has been defined by completed and ongoing projects such as the Spire, Art Norblin, and Browary Warszawskie. From rags to riches, it’s become a barometer of Poland’s growing prosperity.

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FOLLOW… A TOUR GUIDE

Jewish, alternative, royal or communist: take your pick from these and other topics before heading yonder to learn more about Warsaw. Characterized by their umbrella-wielding guides, join Walkative (freewalkingtour.com) for illuminating insights to the city you’re in. They’re fab and free!

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BYPASS… SECURITY

Stunning architecture awaits those who step beyond the doors of two educational institutions: capped by a pyramid-shaped glass roof, the ‘parachute hall’ of the Warsaw School of Economics is trumped only by the main foyer of the Polytechnic. Heavily influenced by the Italian renaissance, exploring the echoing cloisters is a pleasure in itself.

Good to know: Ernest Stavro Blofeld earned a degree in Engineering and Radionics from the Poly before going on to become the greatest supervillain in the history of Bond!

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LIGHT… A CANDLE

REACH… NEW HEIGHTS

Why spend the afternoon in the library when you can spend it on it instead?

Sometimes lauded as the one of the largest and most beautiful rooftop gardens in Europe, the park that tops the roof of the University Library (ul.

Dobra 56/66) feels equally spellbinding and futuristic. The views of the Wisła ain’t too bad either.

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Stand… Up For The Little Guy!

Measuring in at just 6 sq/m, Poland’s smallest café can really pack out: so far, 12 is the record for the number of people to squash into Dobro & Dobro (ul. Puławska 11). Oleg and Ina, the super friendly Ukrainian owners, stress it was never meant as a gimmick: “This was our first business,” says Ina, “so we didn’t want to take the risk on something bigger.”

Nonetheless, with Dobro installed as a cult stop-off, the unexpected publicity has had fringe benefits and new (bigger!) locations have been added across Poland.

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Let it be known that Warsaw remembers its dead and does so well. That much becomes clear on November 1st (All Saints’ Day) when cemeteries and public memorials are festooned with votives. As darkness sets, the effect of tens of thousands of flickering candles casts an eerie red glow over the tombs and necropolises: it’s a sight to remember.

LISTEN… TO THE SOUNDS OF CHOPIN

Firmly installed as the capital’s favorite son, Fryderyk Chopin figures highly in Warsaw’s collective consciousness. But while the concerts that take place each summer in the shadow of the composer’s statue will be wrapping up this September, that shouldn’t spell an end to your flirtation with the man. As part of its growing Chopinphilia, the city has installed 15 ‘musical benches’ along key locations on the Chopin trail, however, for the Insider’s favorite free concert in town hang around outside the University of Music (Okólnik 2) to hear upcoming pianists recite his works. Can’t get enough? Then a high-tech museum celebrating his life lurks around the corner (chopin.museum). warsawinsider.pl

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PEER… INTO THE UNKNOWN

So-called ‘urban explorers’ have a wealth of sites to bust into, and they don’t come weirder than SKRA, a huge sporting complex home to a rundown 35,000-capacity athletics stadium and four swimming pools long since swallowed by nature. But for the king of the bunch, slip through the hole(s) in the perimeter to visit the Wola Gasworks.

Known as the Colosseum, two derelict rotundas are a spooky flashback to the industrial age. With shafts of light streaming through the windows, the effect isn’t unlike happening upon some ruined gothic cathedral: serene, surreal and slightly unsettling. Not that, of course, we’d encourage trespassing: the area is patrolled by security goons, and if local rumors are to be believed, attempts to remove WWII booby traps weren’t entirely successful: you enter at your own risk!

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Buy… A Ticket To Ride

Attention all cheapskates! Forget spluttering your banknotes on cab fares, to see all of Warsaw’s sights in a day buy a 24hr ticket for the 180 bus. Stops include: Powązki Cemetery, the city’s answer to Père Lachaise; the forlorn Jewish Cemetery; the staggering Polin Museum of the History of Jews; the Warsaw Uprising Monument; the Old Town and castle; Krakowskie Przedmieście and all she entails; the embassy row of Al. Ujazdowskie; Łazienki Park; and finally old Wilanów itself. Jeez, you’ll even get a glimpse of Legia’s stadium!

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MARCH… ON A PARADE

The locals need no excuse to hit the streets to wave some placards. In recent times, politically motivated actions such as the pro-choice Czarny Protest have gained massive numbers, as too have pro-democracy groups such as KOD. For the party spirit, join thousands of revelers for June’s annual Equality Parade, or wait until November 11 to see the capital paralyzed as Poles celebrate the nation’s independence with fireworks, flares and billowing banners.

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GO… VEGAN

Officially ranked as having the fastest growing vegan scene IN THE WORLD (not to mention, the third largest overall), Warsaw has become big news among the globe’s plant eaters. In the main, find the action centered around what’s

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become known as The Vegan Square Mile, a chunk of south central Warsaw that bristles with eateries. Ranging from Israeli fine dining down to a multi-ethnic kitchen operated by refugees, your vegan choices in between run from sushi and Mexican to kebabs and falafel – simply put, you’re spoiled for options.

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BE… A PLANE SPOTTER

You could hit up the observation deck at the airport, but to join the hardcore spotters you’ll want to make a beeline for the carpark of Decathlon on Al. Krakowska. It’s here the real anoraks assemble, watching in a state of deep arousal as jets swoop in on Lotnisko Chopin – numbers surge when A-listers like The Stones fly into town!

View… To A Kill

Warsaw’s got a ton of viewpoints from which to enjoy the toytown below. The Palace of Culture is the famous one, but similar views can be had close by from the bar in the Marriott and the top floor pool at the InterConti. Club creatures will enjoy The View, while culture vultures should head to the Museum of Warsaw for a bird’s eye view of the Rynek below. Away from the center, visit Kopiec Powstania Warszawskiego to climb a 141-meter artificial hill built atop of war rubble.

38 SEEK… OUT A LIVING LEGEND Warsaw lost one of its greatest modern figureheads with the passing of Czarny Roman late last year. Resplendent in black hat, black suit and polished black shoes (or, in later years, a pink onesie), ‘The Prince of the Streets’ would often be found stalking Nowy Świat bellowing prophecies of doom. A mysterious figure of urban fascination, his cult fame was such that one commentator was moved to compare him to King Zygmunt II. While Roman was a unique one-off, the city has no shortage of alternative everyday heroes. Among them, cross the river to encounter the stealthy Grochówski Ninja, a one-man anti-crime unit, or head to Metro Centrum to listen to street musician Paweł ‘Krzesło’ Zieńkiewicz drumming on a chair. Further, look out for DJ Wika, an 80-year-old woman that’s reputed to be the world’s oldest DJ, and head to the fringe of Żoliborz to find Stanisław Wdowczyk, a man who jacked in the corporate rat race to take on the name of Einar and build a Viking fortress.

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TRIP… BACK IN TIME

Nearly half a century of communism has left Warsaw studded with reminders of its past. Of the most significant, Stalin’s gift to the Polish people, the Palace of Culture and Science, requires no introduction, but while most have visited the 40th floor viewing platform, nowhere near as many have taken the tour of its underground passages. Do so you and you’ll be rewarded with slinking cats, mysterious tunnels and rooms filled with broken masonry and 50s construction gear.

Of the things less known, take a look at Obiekt Alfa (obiektalfa.pl), a declassified nuclear bunker from which Poland’s medical operation would have been handled in the event of World War III. A labyrinth of musty chambers, the route takes in a sinister laboratory, decontamination units and a living room brimming with empty beer bottles, fading newspapers and commie era cookbooks.

HIT…

THE WATER

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While more grizzled sea dogs head to the coast up north, Warsaw has no shortage of scenic lakes to satisfy the less ambitious mariner. In the center, check out Jezioro Kamionkowskie to the north of Park Skaryszewski, though for the pick of the bunch head to the shimmering, gentle waters

by Wilanów Palace: paddling the calm, inky waters, you feel as though in a story by Jane Austen.

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Across the river, the Neon Museum (neonmuzeum.org) turns sightseeing into a supercool pursuit with its collection of 50 retro signs and 500 letter forms.

Kill two birds with one stone by then visiting the nearby Museum Czar PRL (adventurewarsaw.pl), a beautiful and humorous homage to everyday life in the People’s Republic – if there’s time, book onto one of their tours of communist Warsaw. Conducted in cranky militia vans, you’ll be listening to groovy 70s tunes, meeting locals and tanking back nips of vodka: all the while being avalanched with quirky factoids and amusing anecdotes.

Alternatively, be independent and brave the pungent smells of a classic milk bar such as Bar Sady in Żoliborz or drink in the atmosphere of an old school restaurant like Lotos in Mokotów.

And while you’re on the streets pounding the pavements, keep your eyes peeled for gnomes!

The Orange Alternative were a surrealist group who relied on absurd forms of protest during the communist years. Embracing the gnome as their symbol, plenty of the cheeky fellas were sprayed onto the walls of Warsaw.

A few survive, most notably on Madalińskiego 3/5.

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FEEL… THE REVOLUTION!

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Chill… In Pani Hania’s Garden

Attracting both radicals and curiosity seekers, two of Warsaw’s best-known squats allow visitors to go through the keyhole to see how the other side lives. In the case of Syrena (ul. Wilcza 30) outsiders are welcome to take part in ‘graffiti jams’, language workshops and bike hospitals, as well as to hang about the onsite, vegan Cafe Kryzys. On the other hand, A.D.A. (ul. Puławska 37) is more musically-minded with a busy concert schedule involving bands with names such as Vehemence, Appalachian Terror Unit and Limp Blitzkrieg…

A.k.a. ‘The Secret Garden’, pop into Kwiatkarnia (ul. Zakopiańska 24) for tea and homemade cakes served amid tumbling greenery and blooming plants. Nowhere else in Warsaw comes close to matching the cuteness overload of Pani Hania’s fairytale world.

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SMELL… THE ROSES

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Need to make a last-minute apology? Then divert your Uber to Hala Mirowska: working all hours, the outdoor flower stalls have long been the city’s favorite source for floral gifts. For something a little more romantic, then wander around the Botanical Garden attached to Łazienki. An extraordinary enclave of horticultural treasure, it’s nothing if not a surprise: secretive, serene and certainly surreal, its looping pathways take day trippers through a thrilling cacophony of color that presents in excess of 6,000 species. Amid them, find historic bits and pieces such as an Astronomical Observatory founded in 1825, a hothouse once used to cultivate figs and pineapples for Poland’s elite, as well as a small brick chapel that was to form part of a giant Temple of Divine Providence.

HAVE… A CLOSE ENCOUNTER OF THE THIRD KIND

Visit Pole Mokotowskie for a close encounter with Cosmo Golem, a weird alien-like beast cast down to earth in 2009. Built from wood and featuring a hatch through which kids can post their ‘dreams, hopes and desires’, this four-meter tall structure was created by Belgian artist Koen Vanmechelen with the aim of giving children an ‘identity and voice’.

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EXPERIENCE… MODERN POLISH CUISINE

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Be truthful, when you first came to Poland you thought you’d be eating grey, gloopy stodge served by old bats. While that might have been the case a while back, the last few years have seen the country embrace a gastro revolution with the capital leading the way. Updating forgotten techniques and thrusting local ingredients to the fore, a core group of restaurants stand apart from the crowd: in terms of this, Atelier Amaro, Zielony Niedźwiedź, Zoni, Bez Gwiazdek and Mala Polana Smaków have become something of a benchmark.

TICK… OFF SOME MURALS

A reflection of the city’s new upbeat mood, the once grey and gloomy walls of Warsaw have been used to channel its artistic voice via large format murals. Loaded with relevant messages and subliminal meaning, these giant works have transformed this city. Spend your day(s) tracking as many as possible using the art map at puszka. waw.pl, and don’t miss the Insider’s three faves!

‘Playground’ on Stalowa 51 aims to spark dialogue regarding Warsaw’s lack of urban planning. “In the old days,” says artist Ernest Zacharevic, “there would have been a playground in front of this building. Now, there’s nothing.”

Making the most of a brief Cold War era stopover at Dw. Gdański, David Bowie set off on foot to Pl. Wilsona where he explored the area and visited a record store. This short foray into Żoliborz was enough to stir him to write Warszawa, an eerie instrumental recorded in 1976. Shortly after his death, a mural celebrating his visit was added to Marii Kazimiery 1.

The work of Italian artist Pixel Pancho, the mechanical centaur on Dolna 37 is depicted slaying a simpering robotic stag. It’s meaning?

We haven’t the foggiest, but it’s for certain among the city’s most complex artworks.

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SNAP… A SELFIE

Stick your head through the neon heart on Pl. Europejski or hit-up the Warsaw Palm to shoot the tree as if it’s positioned between your thumb and forefinger. Alternatively, why not be old school and instead climb the 147-steps up the bell tower of St. Anne’s Church. With the Castle Square behind, any selfie you take is bound to look the business.

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LOSE…

YOURSELF IN ART

There’s one reason to visit Bródno, and that’s for a sculpture park that’s commonly cited as one of Central Europe’s best kept artistic oddities. Peppered with crazy installations, highlights include an upside tea house, a bronze nude with jets of water shooting from her nipples, and an invisible sculpture that you really can’t see… For deets, see: fb.com/parkrzezbynabrodnie.

48 TAKE… CRAFT BEER NOTES

At press time Warsaw could boast 50-odd multitap bars, a phenomenal accomplishment given that figure stood at zilch back in 2011.

While the craft beer revolution has penetrated even the darkest, most philistine suburbs, it’s beating heart remains found on Nowogrodzka – no-one will bat an eyelid should you start scribbling notes about the latest double hopped seaweed gose. In fact, doing so is encouraged.

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In The Dark

Inspired by the success of Dining In The Dark, Borpince restaurant, in collaboration with Wyjątkowy Prezent, have created a new crowd thriller: wine tasting in the dark! Doing so without the sense of sight allows the chance to focus on aspects such as smell and taste making this a truly unique experience.

Purchase your voucher now from either wyjatkowyprezent.pl or at Wyjątkowy Prezent points in shopping centers.

Restauracja Borpince ul. Zgoda 1, borpince.pl

Being Frank

Bakery, café and confectionary all under one roof: that’s Frank, a café that combines Polish hospitality with New York creativity. Visit us for our cult ice sandwiches, pies and individually-made, innovative cakes: you’ll think you’re in America! Accompanying all that, enjoy fresh pastries and coffee roasted by the incomparable Warsaw Coffee Lab. Frank ul. Polna 18/20, fb.com/frankwarszawa

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“Sample the exemplary tastes of China in the very heart of Warsaw”

- YAJIA LIN

We invite you to enjoy a splendid culinary journey through China!

Our professional team will create the perfect event for you – we were born to organize!

- communion meals - wedding parties - company meetings - conferences & workshops - events

Ul. Pańska 85 For Reservations tel. 512 671 756 22 253 30 30 panska85.com

H Par ig tn hl e ig r ht s

The Korean Gallery

Presenting the largest collection of Korean artefacts in Poland, The Korean Gallery is delighted to invite visitors to slip their shoes off and enter a traditional hanok…

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xplore a traditional Korean home – or hanok – designed according to the principles of ‘borrowing from nature’s beauty’, by visiting The Korean Gallery this month. Presenting a quiet home space designed to express its inhabitants’ philosophy, the exhibition marries 19th century design to modern Korean ideas inspired by tradition.

The exhibition is a symbolic representation of two spaces: for men (saranbang) and for women (angbang). Strictly divided according to social roles in the patriarchal society, the arrangement of the Korean home covers different functions such as work, meals, hygiene, whilst also expressing the Confucian notion of restraint. Traditional beliefs are present as

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well via ornamental fortune symbols such as bats, butterflies and carp.

Wooden furniture from the 19th and 20th centuries constitutes a major part of the collection, with all the pieces manufactured and sculpted with precision and ornamented with metal fittings. Complimenting them, visitors will also be able to view historic and contemporary pottery, ornamental items and contemporary metal and plastic furniture inspired by traditional designs.

Partners: The Embassy of the Republic of Korea in Warsaw; The Korean Centre of Culture; The Friends of The National Folk Museum of Korea

3.1 Philip Lim — Attico — Rodarte — Paul Andrew — Justine Clenquet — Nina Kastens ­— Jonathan Simkhai — D’ESTREE — ­ RIXO London

a unique shopping experience

www.lui-store.com Mokotowska 26 Warsaw

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A Family Affair

Taking girl power to the next level, two sisters have set about shaking Warsaw’s wine scene…

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t takes passion and commitment for a business to thrive; double the dose and great things can happen. Take Nowina, a project co-founded by two sisters, Paulina and Stefania. Bonded by more than blood, it’s their shared focus and ambition that has elevated this wine bar to unforeseen heights.

An intensely personalized experience, it’s the devotion of the sisters that provides the underlying theme that runs through Nowina. “You’ll always find one of us here,” says Paulina, “which is why we had to create a place in which we both could spend time.” That’s meant an interior formed in collaboration with the acclaimed smallna studio, and a design that mixes high quality finishes with eclectic fine details: elements by Tom Dixon, Eames and Oskar Zięta mix seamlessly against more whimsical touches – original 19th century flooring, lights sourced at auction from the Europejski Hotel, and a staggering collection of wine paraphernalia.

Of the latter, it’s the assembly of corkscrews that speaks loudest for the project. Donated by their father,

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himself one of the early pioneers that transformed Polish wine culture, they’re a compelling feature that say much for a lifetime dedicated to wine. “Growing up,” smiles Stefania, “home life was all about wine.” The thousand plus corkscrews, many over a hundred-yearsold, are the remarkable manifestation of this family’s obsession.

But if the notion of family is important to the sisters, then their connection to Nowina’s customers is equally apparent. Made from hundreds of corks contributed by friends, the basement’s defining feature is a magnificent world map that dominates the space in a manner that feels both organic and warm.

But from the outset, forming such a relationship with guests has been high on the agenda, a point that’s emphasized by numerous initiatives that add distinguishing character. “We adopt unwanted plants in exchange for wine,” says Stefania, “and we’ve introduced a system where we index client preferences on hand-written cards – you don’t have to remember what wine you liked the last time, we’ll remember that for you. Sure,

it might have been easier to create an app, but we both wanted something physical that felt a little more intimate.”

Intimacy, however, is not short in supply. Defined by its low lighting and laidback charm, it’s a space that feels easy and engaging and natural in appeal. Being here, you want to linger. And linger you will, for more than just an addictive environment, Nowina transpires to be a wine bar of note. Working directly with esteemed producers, over 450 labels have been procured all of which are available from the adjoining store.

Though possibly the smallest such store in the country, it’s a choice that’s educated, relevant and surprisingly extensive: there’s a clarity of thought that sings in tune with the overall concept.

Supported by a busy program of events and tastings (“Even tango nights!” adds Paulina), the impression is of a place that values social interaction and the rituals of wine. As part of that, food of course plays a prominent role thanks to a light Mediterranean menu that’s been honed around the seasons. Designed by Arkadiusz Janczarek, a chef certified by Poland’s Slow Food organization, it’s the final winning piece of Nowina’s complex jigsaw.

Nowina ul. Nowogrodzka 4, nowina.waw.pl

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Enjoy the hospitality and tastes of the Bosphorus in Poland’s most authentic Turkish restaurant Pl. Konstytucji 2, tel. 883 444 441, anatolia.pl

ON A ROLL

EAT!

Rarely does a restaurant meet with such unanimous approval, and while the name of Mizu remains unknown among the majority, those In The Know have been crowing about it for a good couple of years. Some secrets, you see, are sometimes simply too good to keep. Irresistible, immaculate and imaginative, this is sushi the likes of which the capital has never seen before – there’s a magic here that makes the knees go wobbly.

Touting a modern-minimal look, the off-center location in a former factory since requisitioned by ad agencies adds to the sensation of dining somewhere a little under-the-radar: to eat here is to visit one of Warsaw’s great whispered secrets.

PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

Mizu ul. Duchnicka 3, mizusushi.pl

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Eat! Review

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LAS ul. Solec 44, fb.com/las.warszawa

SOLEC’S URBAN FOREST A new star rises from the grave of Solec 44…

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he Insider wasn’t the only one to left spiraling in despair when news filtered through about the closure of Aleksander Baron’s Solec 44; spiking with the news, the suicide rate among foodies rocketed around town – we hadn’t just lost a great restaurant, but also one that felt representative of the entire wider area. In the event, however, it appears everyone has won. Baron, he’s landed on his feet leading the fabulous Zoni, whilst Solec street, well, that’s ended up with LAS. Utterly unrecognizable from its previous incarnation (barring one surviving neon), this rail-side communist pavilion has been transformed courtesy of a thorough make

over featuring a jungle of plants, low, muted lighting and the addition of smart charcoal colors and revamped retro fittings. It’s a place that makes you feel good about life, a feeling that peaks when enjoying the last of the summer on the narrow green terrace.

Solec 44? Forgotten already.

style dumplings with a mousse of burnt butter; oxtail pierogi with peanut butter and hazelnut sauce; vegetable pancakes accompanied by a ring of rich tomato and pepper sauce; and a steamed yogurt pudding dressed with seasonal fruit and a light meringue. Excellent all round.

FOOD

DRINK

Chef Anna Klajmon made her bones at Grunt i Woda, and her farm-to-fork philosophy has followed her here.

Cooking with an air of freedom, there’s a natural goodness to her menu that belies the modest pricing. Highly seasonal, on our visit that meant gorgeous Silesian-

Like its predecessor, drinks are a big thing. Check the ‘local cocktails’ for something a little different: for us, that transpired to be a French pine, a mix of Prosecco, gin and lemonade topped off with an edible piece of pine marinated for 15 days: it’s summer in a glass. warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings By in large, you can expect to pay between zł. 20-35 for starters, and zł.

35-70 for mains. Expect those prices to double in the case of the city’s fine dining venues. Those wishing to cut costs should seek out the weekday business lunch deals now offered by most restaurants. When tipping, 10-20% is considered polite though be aware of automatic service charges in some venues.

american 42 bakeries 42 balkan 42 british 44 chinese 44 comfort food 44 desserts 46 fine dining 47 french 49 georgian 49 greek & turkish 49 indian 50 indonesian 52 international 52 italian 56 japanese & sushi 57 korean 58 latin & spanish 59 mexican 60 middle eastern 61 polish 62 scandinavian 69 seafood 69 specialty food shops 70 steak houses 71 street food 63 thai 72 ukrainian 72 vegan & wholefood 72 vietnamese 7472

american Champions Sports Bar The heavy décor brings to mind the trans-Atlantic sports bars of the 90s, with glinting trophies, whirring machines, clacking pool tables and a cacophony of commentaries. Hell, there’s even a boxing ring. But you can’t criticize their consistency: the food is always on-point while the generous floor plan makes it suitable for unwieldy groups of large and loud lads. (D5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 630 5119, champions.pl Hard Rock Café Instantly recognizable by the giant neon guitar outside, Hard Rock has a pierced staff of skater boys and rock girls and a menu that is, if nothing else, completely reliable. Peruse rock’n’roll swag that includes Joplin’s blouse, Prince’s guitar and Shakira’s pants. (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, hardrockcafe.pl Koko & Roy Spotlighting ‘New American Cuisine’, the thrust here is on comfort food, albeit several steps beyond what you’d rustle up at home: the Odds & Ends (deep fried pigs tails and chicken hearts tumbled into a big bowl and served with pickled red onions and a lash of sriracha aioli) are bold, unexpected and utterly delicious.

The work of an American / Polish husband and wife, Koko & Roy feels fun, innovative and pleasingly casual – a bit like visiting friends who really know how to cook. Take it all in inside a brill interior that’s all Sputnik lights, intriguing artwork and mustard-toned finishes.

(D5) ul. Wilcza 43

bakeries Aromat That many consider this their favorite bakery says it all. French flour and an expert baker ensure brilliant results, while the lemon éclairs deserve their own Facebook page. (C4) ul. Sienna 39, fb.com/ piekarnia.aromat Café Vincent Queues build quickly as locals line up to buy baguettes, cinnamon rolls,

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lemon croissants and beautiful pains au chocolat. But people don’t just head in then out, a small wine list and brilliant people spying opportunities cause many to hang around. (D3) ul. Nowy Świat 64 Charlotte While the fancy crowd isn’t to everyone’s liking, the atmosphere feels truly continental: even more so in warm weather when the terrace packs out. (D6) Al. Wyzwolenia 18 (enter from pl. Zbawiciela), bistrocharlotte.com Paul Specializing in pastries, baguettes and other baked goods, this French chain have rapidly entrenched themselves in the capital following their debut last year.

Various locations, boulangeries-paul.com Rozbrat 20 Bakery & Wine Corner Best known for fathering Butchery & Wine, Daniel Pawełek makes his mark on Powiśle with the launch of Rozbrat 20, a high-end bakery that’s worthy of the rave reviews. Breakfast here is among the best you’ll find in Warsaw. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 20, rozbrat20.com.pl SAM Co-owner Małgorzata Kusina-Doran is a fine-bread connoisseur, honing her skills at a bread-making course chaired

by Raymond Blanc. While SAM have expanded to cover numerous locations, this has not been to the cost of the overall quality. many locations, sam.info.pl

balkan Banja Luka Lots of clunky timber and imported ceramics set the scene at this eatery, a Balkan stalwart that’s known for its economical pricing structure and bulky portions. Grilled meats are prominent and the food largely reliable. (E8) ul. Szkolna 2/4, tel. 22 828 1060, banjaluka.pl

Na Bałkany This newbie modernizes the Balkan experience in a manner Warsaw’s yet

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EAT! Listings to see: raw, industrial aesthetics meet head on with a menu that adds a delicate finesse to a cuisine better known for its heavy, rustic style. The addition of a light, sophisticated hand has not, however, been to the detriment of taste. Of the favorites, the swordfish steak, lamb goulash and beef plejskavica sell particularly well.

It feels all the more complete with a rakija or three. Full review soon. (D6) ul.

Koszykowa 47 (entry from ul. Koszykowa 53), tel. 22 118 38 38, nabalkany.pl

british Ę Rybę A couple of places have tried to emulate the taste of the British seaside, but this is the de facto codfather. Here’s a spot where the chips are golden, the fish fresh and the batter crisp and light. Now also serving British breakfast, albeit at a time when most normal people will have already eaten. (E4) Al. Jana Pawła II 18, erybe.pl

chinese

FOOD & WINE PLAC CZESŁAWA NIEMENA 515 664 995, 22 119 86 36 indiantastewaw@gmail.com www.indiantaste.pl

Pańska 85 Ample in size, the interiors speak of money well spent. This is especially true because despite the luxury trimmings Pańska looks good without ever losing its dignity. With their kitchen staff headhunted from across China, the food sets a standard that has yet to be seen in any Chinese restaurant in Warsaw: there’s delicate salmon rolls wrapped in mango; dim sum that are pouches of pure goodness; and Sichuan-style pork that’s a blaze of sizzle and spice. The Beijing Duck, carved and served table-side, is the highlight. (B4) ul. Pańska 85, panska85.com Regina Bar Taking their inspiration from New York’s Little Italy and Chinatown, the menu at Regina is the very definition of ethnic comfort food: won-ton dumplings, ribs in sticky hoisin sauce and the best-selling General Tso chicken – famed for its healing properties, it’s one of the best hangover remedies around. On the Italian front, leopard-spotted pizzas land are presented with wheel-bladed knives in a kooky, retro interior featuring a dangling chandelier and the tallest mirror in Poland (possibly). (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, fb.com/Reginabar To Tu Dumpling Bar A shabby looking shack cabin, To Tu offer what are seriously considered some of the best – if not the best – dim sum in

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town. Magic-ked up by a Manchurian exile, the experience isn’t unlike being in a sweaty back street haunt in Asia. And that’s a good thing! ul. Niekłańska 33, chinskapierogarnia.pl

comfort food Barn Burger Considered one of the founding fathers of Warsaw’s burger culture, Barn Burger have withstood the test of time and emerged as the yardstick all others are judged against. Prepped using freshly ground Charolais beef, choices include the jalapeno-laid Muppet and the outrageous Bypass (400g of beef with quadruple cheese and bacon). If you want to go down in legend, enter one of their Americanstyle speed eating comps. (D4) ul. Złota 9. tel. 512 157 567, barnburger.pl Beef’N’Roll If the wheels have fallen off the burger craze then no-one told Beef’N’Roll.

Originating as a food truck, their success has been such that a fixed venue was required. Everything about the food and drink suggests quality is the main consideration. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel.

531 707 070, beefnroll.pl Burger Bar Warsaw has come full-circle: years after burgers briefly starred as the national food, it’s the original burger joint that still bosses the field. ul. Puławska 974/80 (enter from Olkuska) & ul. Krucza 41/43, burgerbar.waw.pl Efes Forget the restaurant bit, it’s the window hatch you’ll want. Here, muddy manual laborers and polo-shirted locals tolerate each other to stand in chaotic queues that often snake onto the street. The reason?

Warsaw’s finest kebab. (H4) ul. Francuska 1, tel. 22 616 2580, restauracjaefes.pl Kura Buffalo Wings Looking to revise and rehabilitate the reputation of fried chicken, this cult spot has cool staff, a busy buzz and a tasty selection of strips, wings and homemade sauces: look on it as KFC for the millennial generation. (B2) ul. Nowolipki 15, fb.com/ restauracjakura

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EAT! Listings Okienko When the chips are down and you’re looking for emergency nourishment, then join the queue outside Okienko: serving Belgian-style frites in paper cones, this street-side hatch is a true window of life. The roster of sauces, written up in marker pen on the wall tiles, are often superb. (D7) ul. Polna 22 Pogromcy Meatów Yearn no more for the elusive flavor of the backyard BBQ. Specializing in grilled meat, find exactly just that loaded into artisan buns alongside locally grown greens. The sense of homespun quality makes this the kind of comfort food that Warsaw has been missing for years. (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, tel. 505 703 508 Warburger While Warsaw has lost its appetite for burgers, you wouldn’t necessarily tell by popping in WarBurger. Set inside a diminutive cabin, join the scrum for jazzed-up burgers that use slow-food

ingredients. If not the best, they’re most certainly up there. (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1, warburger.pl

Pankowska, it’s a charming, bijou space of fun, frilly style – think pretty pink seats and a wall overlaid with hundreds of rosebuds. (D6) ul. Śniadeckich 12/16

desserts

La Vanille Remember when everyone in the world began wolfing down cupcakes? La Vanille was born of that time. Though the general appetite for these dinky treats has waned, the popularity of La Vanille hasn’t. (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, lavanille.pl

Deseo Burakowska Luxury desserts, pralines and tarts served inside an ivy clad building in a leafy post-industrial complex off Burakowska. The contemporary style is reflected by an interior that’s modern, pared down and richly bathed in sloping sunlight. ul. Burakowska 5/7, deseopatisserie.com El Krepel The rather tantalizing donuts include dulce de leche with cinnamon sugar or rich, creamy donuts topped with marshmallows. The work of Łukasz Kawaller (he of Hell’s Kitchen fame) and blogger / photographer / model Justyna

Lokal Dela Krem That you can now buy vegan, mojito-flavored cupcakes in Warsaw is an indication of the city’s fanatical commitment to healthy living. A roaring success, the first vegan cake shop in the country has become a local staple. (D5) ul. Hoża 27A Lukullus Founded in 1946, Lukullus have evolved into a funky boutique cafe chain noted for quirky interiors and buzzy atmosphere.

A F R E N C H R E V E L AT I O N

REDOLENT OF A PARISIEN COURTYARD BAKERY, YOU’LL SMELL THE AROMA OF OUR FRESHLY BAKED BREAD FROM DAWN. OPEN THROUGH THE DAY, WE’RE DELIGHTED TO SERVE OUR FAMOUS BREAKFASTS, TRADITIONAL PASTRIES NOT TO MENTION A SELECTION OF WINES FOR YOUR DINNER. WE LOOK FORWARD TO WELCOMING YOU.

Być Może

ul. Bagatela 14

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EAT! Listings Oh, and desserts. Renouncing short cuts and low-cost ingredients, this family enterprise has earned a name for top quality desserts that see traditional favorites updated for the modern times.

Various locations, lukullus.pl MOD Warsaw has always loved donuts, but it took the arrival of MOD to elevate this humble doughy vice to new levels with a glam New York-inspired makeover. The mango topped donut is our favorite by miles. (D7) ul. Oleandrów 8 Odette The original spot for ‘fine dining desserts’, Odette’s cool interior causes attention to naturally fall on the long, sleek counter that occupies one end. It’s here that sweet creations glint like boutique little jewels.

(D4) ul. Górskiego 6/07, odette.pl Warszawski Lukier The home of hardcore food porn. Look

for their signature freak shakes: towering treats cascading with calories and color.

Their sister op on Żurawia has more of the same… and ice cream! (E5) ul. Hoża 5/7

fine dining Amber Room at the Sobański Palace Set in the pre-war Pałac Sobańskich, this pristine manor house is everything you expect: hushed, lavish, cultured and classy.

The food fits the backdrop: devised by Robert Skubisz, the contemporary menu draws spontaneous outbreaks of collective joy. Maze-like in its layout, there’s enough nooks and secret rooms to make Amber Room the ideal address for expense account meetings.(E6) Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, amberroom.pl Atelier Amaro If Wojciech Amaro’s eponymous restaurant isn’t the most famous in the country, then

it’s certainly the most important. Awarded Poland’s first Michelin star in 2013, it’s a venue that continues to set the pace in terms of innovation. Changing weekly, his ‘calendar of nature’ seeks to present forgotten ingredients such as little-known berries, herbs and flowers against meats and other ingredients reared or grown at the Atelier farm. One for any bucket list (gastronomic or not), there are occasions when dining here can feel like an out-of-body experience.

(E6) ul. Agrykola 1, tel. 22 628 5747, atelieramaro.pl Belvedere Łazienki Królewskie Set in an imperial age glass orangery, it’s festooned with intricate latticework and botanical exotica. The updated interiors are the work of acclaimed set designer Boris Kudlicka, and lend a fresh, contemporary tone that goes hand in hand with the menu. But behind the gels and emulsions and pretty little swirls, this is cooking of substantial

The Pink Lobster is enthusiastically visited by connoisseurs of the good things in life: find top range produce given the fine dining treatment courtesy of chef and co-owner Jarek Walczyk (President of the Chef’s Club Foundation and the brand ambassador for 92, ZT Kruszwica, and Bursztyn cheese).

UL. ŻURAWIA 6/12, PINKLOBSTER.PL MOB: +48 572 672 772 RESERVATIONS: KONTAKT@PINKLOBSTER.PL

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EAT! Listings depth; it’s cooking that takes you to the very soul of Polish nature. (F6) ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. 22 558 6701, belvedere.com.pl Chłodna 15 by Wilamowski Gone are the Alice in Wonderland decorations of the previous tenant, La Maison, replaced instead by a muted charcoal look that’s reassuringly refined – for the time you’re here, you forget you’re on the ground floor of a 70s tower block. Aiding the amnesia is the classic French cooking of Arkadiusz Wilamowski: small and mercurial in its content, the daily-changing menu is a work of preposterous detail – no sauce takes less than a day to make.

So the rumors go, Michelin are watching closely. (B3) ul. Chłodna 15, choldna15.pl

Insider’s very own ‘One To Watch’ award in 2017), the flagship restaurant of the Raffles Europejski has cut no corners in their bid to become one of Poland’s top restaurants. A seriously swish interior is matched by a menu that features Antonius caviar, beef sirloin aged for 70-days, and a couple of ‘revisited classics’ from the Europejski’s past: among them, veal schnitzel a la Holstein. Full review soon: and yep, we can’t wait to get there. (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, raffles. com/warsaw

Do Bo Do Invoking the spirit of Eugeniusz Bodo – an interwar screen legend who once owned an arty café at this very address – Warsaw’s latest fine dining spot throws the spotlight on the copious talents of Marek Kropielnicki. His menu is a marriage of local produce, outrageous ideas and precise technique, though so far appears to have divided the city’s food critics. (E4) ul. Foksal 17, dobodo.pl

L’enfant Terrible Looking like he’s just swaggered in from a rock concert, the unconventional style of Michał Bryś goes beyond surface detail alone. Promising maximum excitement, his imaginative menu isn’t short on daring twists and rollercoaster highs.

Maverick in every sense of the word, this is a chef that pushes boundaries in a way few others would dare. Though the menu changes often, keep an eye on recurring classics such as ‘tomatoes, tomatoes, tomatoes’, a kickass course that presents the humble tomato in about ten different forms! (D8) ul. Sandomierska 13 (enter from Rejtana), tel. 22 119 5705, eterrible.pl

Europejski Grill Straight off the bat you know they mean business. Having headhunted Benat Alonso (Executive Chef) and Witek Iwański (Head Chef, and the winner of the

N31 Been there, done it all. That’s Robert Sowa, a national treasure widely hailed for modernizing Poland’s gastronomic sector back in the country’s culinary

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dark days. A common sight on TV, the chef’s public profile has meant there’s no shortage of bums on seats in his flagship restaurant, but this is more than a chef trading on his past. A chic city center bubble beloved by business types, the food is first class with Sowa’s international travels reflected by surprises such as flawless tuna partnered with kabayaki sauce, yuzu, wasabi dressing and turnip salad. The flavor combinations are exceptional. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 31, n31restaurant.pl

Nolita BEST WAWA 2017 “Fine Dining” For many diners, there is no bigger night out than one that begins and ends in this enclave of class. Dashing in its monochrome colors and muted gunmetal shades, Nolita is where Warsaw heads to live the life of the 1%. Lacking the magic tricks of some, the ‘show factor’ might be subdued but the tastes definitely aren’t.

Who to credit? Two words: Jacek Grochowina. Cooking with poise and focus, his menu is a marriage of the classic and creative, with core ingredients given unexpected lifts with cunning turns and inspired little twists: maybe some yuzu with the tartare or konbu with the eel. (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 292 0424, nolita.pl

EAT! Listings Platter by Karol Okrasa It’s a fact that Okrasa’s appearances in the kitchen are fleeting and rare, but that’s done nothing to hurt this restaurant’s prestige. Head chef Łukasz Pielak has proved to be a lethal assassin, executing the ideas of his mentor with accuracy and passion. The cooking is detailed, balanced and elegant, with the highlight of our visit being deer in plum sauce. A thing of imperial, velvety richness it’s a dish that turns up the volume on a memorable experience. (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (Hotel InterContinental Warsaw), warsaw.intercontinental.com Salto Any Best of Warsaw list wouldn’t be complete without mentioning Salto. The baby of Martin Gimenez Castro, the chef’s South American influences shine on an a la carte menu that includes corvina ceviche with orange and spices and dry aged steaks worth crossing town for. Mind you, the real riches are on the tasting menu, a six-dish volley of riveting tastes.

The inventiveness peaks with elaborate desserts such as cream of roses, marinated lychee ice cream, coconut and beetroot paper. (D5) ul. Wilcza 73 (enter from Emilii Plater), tel. 22 584 8771, saltorestauracja.pl Senses Diners are best advised to leave logic outside. Inspired by the idea of ‘note-bynote’ cooking, Italian-born chef Andrea Camastra isolates and extracts molecules from ingredients to obtain the purest flavors before matching them up with unlikely partners. What unfolds is a dazzling show of near illusory brilliance; the technical proficiency of the kitchen is exceptional and makes the WTF prices easier to swallow. Wrap-up the evening with a pungent, edible cigar. (C2) ul.

Bielańska 12, tel. 22 331 9697, sensesrestaurant.pl Signature If you thought hotel restaurants were the mundane realm of business travelers then you haven’t visited Signature.

The design incorporates architectural elements from the times this functioned as the Soviet Embassy, Oswald chairs and photos of Marilyn shot by Milton Greene. Then, along comes the food, a sophisticated pan-European event

with occasional Polish accents. Dessert, especially the mille-feuille, should not be missed. (D5) ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 55 38755, signaturerestaurant.pl

french L’Arc Looking elegant with its black/white floors and subtle decorations bills at L’Arc can become big number affairs – especially if you hanker for seafood. Pick from numerous types of oysters or delve into the fish tank for the lobster of your choosing. The catchment area extends beyond the borders of Mokotów, not just because of their ‘fresh from France’ seafood, but because of classic dishes such as Mulard duck and Burgundy snails.

(E8) ul. Puławska 16, larc.pl

georgian Chinkali Signposted by a Georgian-language shingle, there’s a real sense of pleasure about this place. More modern than your typical folksy ethnic outpost, Chinkali’s draw is indeed its chinkali: dough purses packed with meaty broth. There’s a genuine homemade quality to these slurpy bundles of joy, meaning that while they’re authentic, consistency can vary. And don’t miss out on the red bean chachapuri washed down with a mouthwash-colored tarragon lemonade. (D4) ul. Zgoda 3 Klukovka Jana Pawła’s pavilions are the unlikely location of this culinary beacon: amid the aggressive waft of its kebab shop neighbors, Klukova presents itself as a warming mouse hole filled with banter, babble and rich aromas. Specializing in the foods of ‘the east’, this means a menu inspired by the tastes of Georgia, Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan, and more. The mutton manty dumplings are great, and best appreciated with a bottle of unfiltered Lithuanian beer. (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 45A, klukovka.pl Rioni Warsaw’s foodies like talking of ‘cursed locations’, and they don’t get more hexed

than Mokotowska 17. But despite its history of failed ventures, Rioni feel better placed than most to break the jinx. Set in a curving brick room lit by dangling overhead bulbs, join a young-ish crowd for juicy Georgian dumplings oozing with meat and herbs, hearty soups and big, doughy wheels of cheese-filled chaczapuri. (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17 (enter from Pl. Zbawiciela), rioni.pl Rusiko To the uninitiated, Georgian food is representative of the heart, spirit and passion of its people; it’s a cuisine that values the concept of the feast: wine, laughter and song find themselves elevated to roles of primary importance. A food of life, spice and whole-hearted tastes, consider Rusiko as the best ambassador there is for this surprisingly diverse kitchen. Note: closed Monday. (E5) Al. Ujazdowskie 22, tel.

22 629 0628, rusiko.pl

greek & turkish

Anatolia Looking dark and moody, Anatolia adds a veneer of sophistication to the traditional Turkish dining experience; presentation, you can tell, is important, but so too is the general sense of replicating the standards of home. Meat finds itself treated with reverence, and that holds especially true when it comes to steak and lamb. (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 2, anatolia-waw.pl Maho Maho feels like it’s located at the end of the earth – but its distance deters no-one, least of all its army of hardcore followers. Why are they there? The answer is a Turkish grill that takes you right to the heart of this glorious cuisine.

Highly recommended is the Iskender kebab: layers of juicy doner meat served with scoops of fresh tomato sauce and fresh, thin pide bread straight from the wood-fired oven. While you’re there, you may as well stock up on imported goodies from their adjoining store. Al. Krakowska 240/242, maho.com.pl warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings Santorini Santorini looks scuffed and tired but there’s a certain bonhomie present that instantly engages. The kitchen attaches little value to things like presentation, preferring instead to simply treat diners to impressive piles of grilled and skewered food that consistently taste right: you’re guaranteed a (plate) smashing time! ul. Egipska 7, tel. 22 672 0525, kregliccy.pl/santorini/

indian Bollywood Lounge Known for their raucous dusk-till-dawn parties, there is another less hedonistic roll filled by Bollywood: that of a restaurant. The menu is an uncomplicated, classic affair that’s an ideal primer for the party ahead. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, tel. 22 827 0283, bollywoodlounge.pl

Bombaj Masala Not just the best looking of Warsaw’s Indian restaurants, Bombaj Masala also has some of the best cooking. With so many restaurants reliant on one ‘master pot’ for their curry, this classy venue feels unique in delivering a variety of rich, intense tastes. The vindaloo is a special standout, with big, punchy flavors that leave you tingling long after you leave.

(B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 606 688 777, bombajmasala.pl Curry House Ask for something extra hot in Curry House and by Suresh that’s what you’ll get. Yet at Curry House there is more to sing about than just Poland’s highest voltage vindaloo. The curries are rich and sumptuous and consistently cited as among the best in the city. If in doubt, the chicken tikka masala is a fail-safe request. ul. Żeromskiego 81 & ul. Hoża 54, curry-house.pl

Curry Leaf The postindustrial style is diluted by the number of Indian trinkets hanging off the vents and pipes. Owned by the same crew behind the lauded Curry House, you’d be completely correct to assume consistency and excellence. ul.

Conrada 5, curryleaf.pl Guru Moving into the space vacated by the lamentable BrewDog pub, Guru joins the city’s (very) shortlist of higher end Indians.

The menu is a union of local, seasonal ingredients (organic this, farmyard that) and imported spices, coming together to blast the competition out of the water.

From the openers, the chili chicken fry stands out as a dish that’s all snap and crackle, while of the mains the tikka masala is a exceptional in taste. Plus points for Indian-themed cocktails that

Finest Authentic Indian Cuisine in Locations Around Warsaw WWW.CURRY-HOUSE.PL

ŻEROMSKIEGO 81 508 870 774

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HOŻA 54

536 443 771

KONDRATOWICZA 59 789 444 921

EAT! Listings really hit the mark. Already, some are pegging it as potentially the best Indian to ever operate in Poland. (D4) ul. Widok 8, gururestauracja.pl House of Curry Heat seekers can ‘enjoy’ a genuine deathby-fire experience at House of Curry, though far milder curries are available for more sensitive palettes – either way, the experience is fantastic, and good news for those stuck out in the depths of Józefów. ul. Patriotów 11 A, house-of-curry.pl

Indian Taste Set within a new residential complex on the border of Żoliborz, this smart-looking labor of love presents traditional favorites alongside lesser-known choices such as mango chicken and lamb amritsari. If

you’re in luck, find meals complimented with additional chili concoctions made by the chef. Pl. Niemena 1, indiantaste.pl Karma Having switched postcodes at the start of 2018, Karma’s new Mokotów address has a fresh, contemporary edge with an interior that’s chic, classy and leagues ahead of many of Warsaw’s other Indian restaurants. The food is impressive alright, with a boisterously punchy madras among the highlights. South Indian specialties are the forte though, with Karma’s menu presenting a wide range of dosas, uttapams, idlis and parrottas. Al. Niepodległości 18, restauracjakarma.pl Mandala This long-standing legend is known for its ample portions and online delivery service. Sitting down, the creamy mutton methi is a masterpiece, and the Madras

recognized for its blitzing big spices. Their latest operation, set out on Sienna, is open for Indian-style breakfast. ul. Emilii Plater 9/11 / ul. Etiudy Rewolucyjnej 9 & ul. Sienna 87, mandalaklub.com or indiaexpress.pl Mr. India Split on two levels the design is contemporary if a little characterless: leather banquettes that leave a sweaty bum print and wood paneling. No problem though: if it looks bland then the food isn’t.

That means an incredible butter chicken that’s deep and immensely satisfying.

Then there’s the vindaloo, an experience that leaves some close to spontaneous combustion. Al. KEN 47, tel. 22 213 0689, mrindia.pl Namaste India Responsible for first bringing quality, budget Indian food to Warsaw, Namaste have grown from humble beginnings (three tables and cooking done in a

Focaccia Ristorante Modern take on Italian cuisine

by Samuele Mariani

tel.: +48 22 829 69 69 ul. Senatorska 13/15, Warsaw/Old Town restauracja@focaccia.pl, fb.com/restauracjafocaccia www.focaccia.pl

409677 insider focaccia czerwiec 144x102.indd 1

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EAT! Listings cupboard-sized space behind a curtain) to evolve into a bona fide two-floored restaurant. But expansion has come at the cost of quality – our last trip was a calamity. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 15, tel. 22 357 0939, namasteindia.pl

indonesian Warung Jakarta The menu has a street food edge and is divided into steps wherein diners first pick out their choice of protein, then their rice, before concluding with any vegetables add-ons (e.g. pak choy, green beans or water spinach). While most Warsaw restaurants have a special lunch scheme going on, Warung’s is one that actually warrants a further look: find truly great off-menu dishes that are highly accessible to all levels of income. (D6) ul.

Piękna 28/34

international Aioli This runaway hit has taken Warsaw by storm. It’s a jaunty space with hams hanging from hooks and long communal tables that thrive with life. Aioli’s breakfasts, sandwiches, pastas and pizzas are a lesson in clean, simple pleasure: nothing out of the world, just consistently good. This and the liberal prices mean there’s no shortage of people passing in and out the doors. (D3) ul. Świętokrzyska 18, tel. 22 290 102, aioli-cantine.com Ale Wino Dip through an archway to discover Ale Wino, a beautiful wine bar whose menu has been well tailored to the season.

Tweaked for the season is the pork belly, a Złotnicka pig adorned with apple sugar snap peas and celery mousse – gorgeous.

As for the wine, put your faith in the sommelier, Oliver. (F5) ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 628 3830, alewino.pl Bazar Kocha Designed to evoke the spirit of a farmers’ market, the woodsy interior is filled with stall-style units neatly stacked with jars and pots. Yet these are not decorative decoys, but part of a thoughtful grocery

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offer aimed at showcasing Kocha’s own-made produce. Above all though, this is a restaurant whose menu is strongly influenced by concepts of ‘terroir’. The giant leg of lamb falls off the bone and is a dish to recommend and remember for several months to come. (D6) ul.

Mokotowska 33, bazarkocha.pl Bez Tytułu Gosh. Co-owned by the Kasia Michalski Gallery to the flank, the restaurant feels like a natural extension: find contemporary art and photography set against raw brickwork while pendant bulbs cast a soft light down. Onto the important stuff, and Erwan Debono’s menu makes much of his native French background as well as Poland’s own rich access to produce.

The results come together in a way that’s nuanced and subtle. (D5) ul. Poznańska 16, beztytulu.com Bibenda The menu declares Bibenda to be ‘a celebration of food, drink and togetherness’, and that’s precisely what it is.

Augmenting the warm, busy interiors are a thoughtful selection of craft beers and a concise menu that varies from month-tomonth. The apparent simplicity of the food is illusory and belies the kitchen’s knack for spotting interesting combinations such as goose with pumpkin puree, cranberry / red wine jam and chili caramelized beetroot. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 10, tel. 502 770 303, bibenda.pl Brasserie Warszawska Looking for classic cuisine with no daft flights of fancy? Here you have it. At a time when everyone wants to be Ferran Adrià, Brasserie has both a menu and interior that you can understand: panfried foie gras; elegant beef Rossini; and sinful apple tarte tatin, all served inside posh interiors of zinc-plated mirrors and chessboard floors. Their Michelin Bib Gourmand is a source of pride, but it’s the number of repeat clients that are the ultimate paean to the skills of the chef.

(E5) ul. Górnośląska 24, tel. 22 628 9423, brasseriewarszawska.pl Bubbles Occupying a small, square room, it’s intimate and relaxed: a place busy with blackboards and bottles, crates and clutter. It radiates warmth and honesty.

The food is exquisite, and includes big, meaty snails farmed in Mazury, and their signature dish: Swiss-style raclette.

Presented on a wooden chopping board, this cheese dish is classic melty goodness, and served alongside a pile of potatoes, onions marinated with caramel and candied pumpkin. Considering the place doubles as a champagne bar the prices are remarkably moderate. (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 512 540 913, bubbles. com.pl Concept 13 You’d expect a rooftop meal at Poland’s ultimate luxury department store to cost the earth, but that’s not the case. The zł. 50 lunch deal allows Joe Public to enjoy the considerable skills of Dariusz Barański. That he manages to create different pieces of art each and every afternoon is a testament to his talent. (D4) ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7373, likusrestauracje.pl Der Elefant This leviathan restaurant unravels in a maze of wrought iron and monochrome tiles – beautiful to look at (it was created

by Oscar-winning set designer Allan Starski), it’s caused a stir for more than just this alone. Where once the menu looked like it was devised by throwing darts at a cookbook, the focus has now been narrowed. While some of the dishes are strictly middling, the filet mignon (zł.

69) is one of the best meat deals in town in terms of quality / price / consistency. (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, tel. 22 890 0010, derelefant.com Dom Here’s the very epitome of casual dining: set on the ground floor of a suburban house, the warm corners and garden views give Dom a real sense of homey charm. In line with all that is a menu that celebrates simple, honest cooking.

Everyone who visits ends up loving the place. ul. Mierosławskiego 12, tel. 509 165 712 Drukarnia Wrapped inside an ugly 1950s facade, this former printing house unravels to expose a sensational interior high on retro pieces: jagged-shaped stone floor tiles, a red neon and stern Socialist era statuettes lend a heavy PRL accent,

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EAT! Listings though the big statement at Drukarnia is supplied courtesy of the architecture itself. Tall windows, high ceilings and a peculiar spiral staircase that disappears into nowhere collude to lend Drukarnia a sense of light, space and depth. The food: limited choice of European standards cooked with competence. If you’re in the area, worth a look ul. Mińska 65

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Dyletanci Filled with crisp, modern citizens that radiate confidence, Dyletanci introduces itself as a bistro set with green banquettes and Tom Dixon lamps. The wine selection is among the best in the nation, while the cooking has been left to Rafał Hreczaniuk, a workaholic chef with outrageous talent. His zander fillet thrills with every bite. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44A, dyletanci.pl Fest Port Czerniakowski Bring out the clichés: at Fest quality rules over quantity. Food-wise, there’s not much to choose from, but it’s doubtful you’ll find better ribs for a few hundred miles. Cooked outdoors on a beast of a smoker, these are glorious things of atavistic joy. Improving the mood yet further is the backdrop, a timber cabin in a wooded part of Warsaw. There’s nowhere else like it. (G6) ul. Zaruskiego 8 Genesis What the hell is it? Seen as an amorphous blob composed of triangular white plates and large glass panels, Genesis restaurant is an instant head turner. the feeling is of stepping into your own futuristic space adventure. As for the menu, that’s been revamped by the new chef, former Top Chef contestant Paweł Kibart, and makes use of a Mibrasa charcoal oven – apparently the first in Poland. (A4) Pl. Europejski 5, fb.com/genesiswarsaw

dom-faraona.com, O r d y n a c k a 13

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Kieliszki Na Hożej Set on the corner of an ornate pre-war building, Kieliszki casts a warm, beckoning glow on the street outside – resisting its charms is entirely impossible. The cooking is just as seductive and sees Polish mainstays such as dumplings, tartare and herring given a 21st century update. Superb wines, all of which are available by the glass, round out the experience. (D5) ul. Hoża 41, kieliszkinahozej.pl

La Brasserie Modern The interior of Didier Gomez whispers intimacy, yet it also embraces notions of space and light. The casual elegance that emanates from the design is accented by warm colors, low banquettes and glinting mirrors. The menu fits seamlessly with the surrounds: a fresh, modern look at French cuisine, but one that values clarity and simplicity. (D3) ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8332, sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com Lente You might know the owners already: Julia, as the force behind the Lente lifestyle blog, and Uri, as the author of Cophi, a café recognized as one of the best in Poland. Together, they’ve realized the dream of a lifetime to open a laidback, urban space serving up Mediterranean recipes that speak of good times with friends. Full review soon! (D5) ul. Hoża 43/49, fb.com/lentewarsaw

Loft Color, that’s what Loft has. It’s everywhere – from the design, which is all bubble shaped lights and splashy, bright cushions, to the drinks: extravagant cocktails that possibly glow in the dark. The menu is full of playful experimentation, something reflected by a seasonal menu that has, in the past, presented such choices as chicken with strawberries. (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 668 016 964, restauracjaloft.pl Mech Nestled close to the mouth of Francuska, Mech has gradually evolved to become one of the area’s main muster points: and you can see why. Few menus in the district cover quite so many bases. From breakfasts and burgers through to salads and pasta, you get the sense of a place that aims to keep everyone happy. (H4) ul.

Francuska 45, restauracjamech.pl MOD Where odd couplings are concerned,

EAT! Listings MOD takes the biscuit: hip donut store by day, at night it morphs into a cool restaurant whose card veers between steaming bowls of ramen and inventive modern dishes that harness the chef’s classic French training (think: beef cheeks with gremolata, tahini mash, veal jus and caramelized sprouts). It’s crazy popular with creative types touting man buns and t-shirts that threaten: “I Shoot Hipsters”. (D6) ul. Oleandrów 8, fb.com/ MODOleandrow8

sense of dazzle to this polished-looking venue. Food is an upscale work that, in spite of the Lobster’s name, awards equal importance to land and sea. Beautifully plated, dishes that the Insider fell for inc. sea bass ceviche, an exquisite exhibition of complex tastes set down in a slash of green on a plate that could pass for a work of sculpture. Immaculate roe deer and a series of extravagant desserts also won praise. (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, pinklobster.pl

Mokotowska 69 Set inside a rotunda at the tail end of the street, it’s a place that exudes elegance and class. Most of all, however, it’s a restaurant to be enjoyed. Brought to you by the same team credited for Merliniego 5, Mokotowska’s appreciation of steak has been lifted from their elder sister.

Yet the virtues of this restaurant extend beyond steak alone: the Insider enjoyed a volley of greats – creamy breaded calf brains, sophisticated smoked eel, and Mazurian crayfish served in a deep, joyous sauce of rowan berry and brandy. (E5) ul.

Mokotowska 69, mokotowska69.com

Plato BEST WAWA 2017 “Neo Bistro” Conceived as a ‘smart casual’ restaurant, it’s a reasonably compact space with a modern style and incandescent bulbs hanging from a complex cat’s cradle of interweaving wires: classy but nothing too flashy or flamboyant. Then there’s the menu, a strange work that sees Spanish influences brushing shoulders next to Polish and Asian. It sounds silly and preposterous but my God it works. December saw us wowed by beef tartar cut from Polish Hereford, an aromatic oriental broth, and a refined halibut encircled with sage pesto, redcurrants and fresh almonds. Stunning. ul. Klimczaka 1 (Royal Wilanow), restauracjaplato.pl

Momu Dominated by meat that’s cooked using the only smoker of its kind in Poland, the menu is comforting and strangely familiar: these are flavors reminiscent of campfire nights – brawny, smoky tastes with towering Reuben sandwiches, juicy steaks, bone marrow and wooden slabs brimming with meats from MOMU’s smokehouse. Impromptu art, tweeting birds and a neo-industrial design add oomph to the busy ambiance. (C2) ul.

Wierzbowa 11, tel. 506 100 001, momu.pl Orzo Functioning until recently as Aioli by Mini, the subsequent re-brand has seen the industrial interiors enhanced by a mother lode of plant life and greenery.

Other changes include the addition of orzo-based dishes as well as a new motto that asserts their connection to ‘people, music, nature’. (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 5 Pink Lobster The door clatters shut to divulge a narrow space of tall palm fronds and marble finishes underneath soaring ceilings that seem to stretch on forever. Bursts of flamingo pink colors lend a dapper

‘Simplicity, elegance and atmosphere’

Cafe • Wine Bar • Restaurant • Whisky Bar • Wine Cellar ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 515 037 001 www.hoza.warszawa.pl www.facebook.com/hoza25 Open 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-21:00

Rozbrat 20 There’s a few places that offer catch-all solutions, but in Rozbrat’s case they execute them as well: from dawn, find some of the best baked goods within the city limits; at night, a diverse range of exciting wines; and then there’s an affordable tasting menu that gives fine dining venues real pause for thought. If there’s a weak link, then no-one’s yet to find it. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 20, rozbrat20.com.pl Soul Kitchen Bistro If the previous venue was all slanted towards low-pitched business conversation then the new one is positively festive in comparison: scuffed brickwork, tall bar stools, a long communal table, etc.

The seasonal menu is a pick-and-mix of small-to-medium plates, including a halibut gravlax, whose delicate taste juxtaposes well against the rougher, earthier kick of the radish, and crayfish presented in a bird’s nest of green beans, fennel and leek. For mains, look for the braised beef. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 18A, soulkitchen.pl warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings Stixx It’s easy to distrust a menu with such international diversity, but the kitchen crew really make it come together: the Indian section is particularly outstanding. Then there’s the design, a balance between slick corporate and sexy cosmopolitan: with the Warsaw Spire towering above it outside, it’s the kind of address to take any new arrival who still thinks of Poland as being backward. (A4) Pl. Europejski 4A, tel. 22 340 4040, stixx.pl Supperlardo Run as a side project by Mąka i Woda (quite literally – it’s right next door), it’s a stylish-looking spot that’s fresh, contemporary and even a little edgy: for evidence, refer to a mural designed by Swansky, a local big gun on the street art scene. As for the menu, that’s a riotously meaty romp that involves wood-fired hams, sandwiches composed of pork belly pastrami and salt-cured meats from Puławska and Mangalica pigs. With orders taken at the counter, it’s a place that lifts the canteen concept to new, unseen heights. (D4) ul. Chmielna 13A, fb.com/Supperlardo Warszawski Sznyt Warsaw’s historic center is rightly glorified for many reasons – its restaurants, however, are not one of them. In fact, there’s probably nowhere in the city with a higher concentration of sub-par efforts. Aiming to redress the balance are Sznyt, an ambitious venue with swank interiors overlooking the Royal Castle, and a kitchen staff headhunted from blue ribbon venues such as Salto and Amaro. Set over two floors (one focused on Polish cuisine, the other on ‘international’), the pride of the house is afforded to the wood-fired grill. (D2) ul.

Senatorska 2, warszawskisznyt.pl Weranda Bistro Warmly decorated with shrubbery and dangling paper decoys, Weranda’s design is thoughtful enough to be in equilibrium with the wider Koszyki setting, yet sufficiently distinct to stand apart from the crowd. Kudos, as well, to the food.

Celebrated for their salads, don’t expect to be pecking on morsels of rabbit food – instead, prepare for huge, leafy affairs assembled to look complex and intriguing. Recommended is the Croatian

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salad which arrives ensconced inside jumbo leaves of lettuce and cascading with mango, shrimps, goat cheese and much more besides. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki), weranda.pl White One The changing face of Koszykowa street is almost embodied by White One – where once stood a disintegrating tenement stands a revamped building with a super swanky ground floor restaurant. Ideal for those nights you want to make an impression, interiors are well-spaced, smart and modern but never too intimidating. The pared-down menu is fully reflective of contemporary dining trends: innovations include a 5-course vegan tasting menu, as well as a 7-course menu entirely dependent on the whims of the chef – you won’t know what’s in store till it lands on the table! Full review soon. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 47, whiteone.pl Winsky Opened in November, Winsky have made a blistering start to life with early points scored for their selection of edgy ‘tap wines’ and menu of small plates – though mainly Polish in spirit, there’s enough international twists and turns to keep things varied. The design, with its deep sofas and riverside views, feels refined and considered – the kind of place you’d impress a first date. (F4) ul.

Wioślarska 10

italian Ave Pizza The argument over who serves Warsaw’s best pizza goes right to the wire, but there’s no doubting that Ave Pizza are up there on the leaderboard. Set across a sparse, metropolitan area, this fashionable L-shaped joint comes endorsed by the capital’s notoriously picky Italian community. Order the pillowy calzone and you’ll soon learn why. (E3) ul. Topiel 12, tel. 22 828 8507, avepizza.pl Bordo Offering a breakfast menu from 9 onwards, Bordo starts busy and finishes even busier. Find simple but accurately reproduced Italian recipes and wood-fired pizza ovens that are expertly

manned. (D4) ul. Chimelna 34, bordo.com.pl Delizia The sheer proliferation of Italian restaurants lends an element of chance to dining out: cut through the noise by visiting Delizia, a place that’s consistently topped polls ever since it launched in 2010. Lorenzo’s cooking is upscale Italian with a contemporary twist, and comes presented by Luca, an ebullient ball of energy who patrols the floor with sparkling good humor. Top quality imported products, a dimly-lit romantic atmosphere, a tasteful design and faultless food. (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 22 622 6665, delizia.com.pl Dziurka od Klucza An enchanting locale in which enigmatic, lavender-painted doors sit embedded into the walls, as if waiting to be magically opened by the mysterious keys that hang from the numerous interior details. Set with empty picture frames and cotton ball lights, interiors just don’t get any cuter.

As for food, the concise, daily-changing menu is centered around homemade pasta – pride of place is given to the black colored pasta served with seafood. (E3) ul. Radna 13, tel. 500 150 494, dziurkaodklucza.com.pl Focaccia The Insider’s visit went something like this: wrist-thick octopus with an arc of yellow mousse, conversation stopping beef tenderloin alongside a glistening pool of madeira sauce and then an orange ice cream with caramel and ginger that soon merged into a big gooey brew of chocolatey mess. The only surprise is there’s no Italian in the kitchen – it appears they don’t need one. This is seriously talented cooking inside an interior that fresh and light and reflective of the food. (D2) ul. Senatorska 13/15, tel.

22 829 6969, focaccia.pl La Tomatina Calamitous, slapstick service and accusations pointing to the overuse of readymade ingredients shouldn’t detract from good pizzas served in modern interiors of stark white walls and concrete floors.

Our spicy tiger prawn spaghetti was also okay, even if the presentation looked like a student had cooked it. (D5) ul. Krucza 47A, tel. 22 625 1047 latomatina.pl

EAT! Listings Mąka i Woda Purists applaud an approach that uses a custom-made oven from Naples and imported ingredients such as 00 Caputo flour and DOP certified San Marzano tomatoes. Scrupulously authentic, it’s no wonder that it’s packed to the gunnels every night of the week – even their Facebook page warns of 20-minute waiting times for a table alone. (D4) ul.

Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 91 87 Otto Pompieri If you judge pizzerias on choice then Otto Pompieri’s modest count of eleven pizzas doesn’t promise much – but then it arrives. At zł. 21 for 42 centimeters, the margherita offers the best value per sq/cm than anything out here, while the artichoke pizza reveals itself in an orgy of melty virtue. The retro Little Italy look is rounded out by a cooking brigade that engage in banter and bravado while spinning dough in the air: it feels and tastes ideal. (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, fb.com/ otto.pompieri Sexy Duck Marketing themselves as a ‘craft Italian kitchen’, Sexy Duck make a song and dance about artisan this and that while never justifying their own hyperbole. Were they not so keen to tell you otherwise, you’d mistake the food as being something from a mid-market high street chain enterprise. (D6) Pl.

Konstytucji 3, tel. 22 400 3737 Si From the makers of Secado comes a new downtown venture: Si, a fun Italian stop with homemade pasta, an array of pizza and a hefty choice of cocktails. Geared towards good times, a list of rotating daily offers has done a fair job of drumming up trade. (C3) ul. Marszałkowska 115 Tutti Santi With a kitchen team trained by champion pizzaiola Valerio Valle you’d be right to expect something a few steps beyond your standard high street pizza. Cooked in a woodfired Valoriani oven, the attention to detail is something else: sauce from Pelati tomatoes, Milano salami and Farina Le 5 Stagioni flour. (C3) ul. Królewska 18, tuttisanti.pl

japanese Arigator This Japanese-style noodle joint whisks you to the narrow, steamy back alleys of late night Tokyo. Clad in corrugated iron and dark, weathered wooden slats, it’s got that buzzing sense of chaos that feels familiar from the films. And the food, gosh, they get that right as well.

From a tiny menu order up dainty pork dumplings, braised kakuni bacon or

deep-fried tofu before hitting up a feisty bowl of ramen emanating life-affirming goodness. A complex tangle of interlacing flavors, it’s the sort of dish you’d happily queue up for: and yes, people do.

(D6) ul. Piękna 54 Benihana Fire, flash, show and sizzle: the Benihana experience merges cooking with cabaret with diners sat ringside around teppanyaki grills. These cooking stations are the stage for the Benihana crew to demonstrate their riveting range of nifty knifework and daredevil antics. Outside of the realm of the grill, the sushi also strikes the right note. (C4) ul. Twarda 2/4, benihanapoland.com Fat Buddha Immense in size, there’s a confident feeling of decadent ostentation: with light kept at bay by vast mulberrycolored drapes, what would otherwise appear as an over-sized hall feels intimate and sensual, dark and delicious. Japanese in spirit, the menu pitches a refined selection of exceptional dishes – elaborate dragon rolls; delicate gyoza; and beef tataki that’s lightly seared and thinly sliced. It’s all perfect.

(D3) ul. Mazowiecka 2/4 Gabriel de Garcia & Sakana It’s not uncommon to hear the preparation of sushi described as a form

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EAT! Listings of art, but Spaniard Gabriel de Garcia takes things in a new direction with his spectacular translation of this Japanese craft. Using premium ingredients and unusual combinations (seasonal fruits and flowers figure highly), his creations are a vivid blast of color and freshness.

(D2) ul. Moliera 4/6 Mizu Those who’ve visited have been largely unanimous in their appraisal: Warsaw has not seen sushi this good before. Elaborate, imaginative and immaculately prepped, there’s a magic here that makes the knees go wobbly.

Fresh and flawless, disappointments are practically unheard of. Add to that an off-center location in a former factory and you get a true ‘in the know’ gem popular with celebs trying to go under the radar. Full review soon. ul.

Duchnicka 3, mizusushi.pl Na Sushi Sleek, dark and dominated by a lush picture of a breathtaking waterfall, at Na Sushi a smart crowd join forces around a horseshoe-shaped bar to click chopsticks over a top pedigree menu high on enticements: eel rolls with marinated pumpkin and sriracha wrapped in torched yellowtail and lime; spicy octopus rolls; and tempura rolls with shrimp, eel, mushroom, radish, leek and mayo. Fresh, creative and expertly assembled, it’s a welcome addition to a fast-rising area. Not cheap, but then good sushi isn’t. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 54, fb.com/nasushikoszykowa Sato Gotuje Signposted by its own splash of Manga-style art adorning the exterior wall, this Commie era pavilion feels small and squashed and assembled on a budget. Who cares? No-one. An exciting departure from the norm – no sushi here – the menu is a selection of bitey Japanese street food such as grilled mackerel fillet with shavings of grated radish. Prices and quality ensure you don’t stop until you’ve gobbled your way through much of the menu. ul.

Pawińskiego 24 Shoku Most places that claim to serve fusion

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do so because of an identity crisis.

At Shoku, though, the mix and match approach when it comes to Asia (if it’s tasty, stick it on the menu!) feels rational and put together. Never short of custom, locals gather inside a bright, contemporary space to slurp down bowls of ramen, share shoku bowls or click chopsticks over small plates of dim sum and wonton. Come summer, the scene ramps up a notch with diners flocking to a prim garden area that’s billiard green in color. (A4) ul. Karolkowa 30, shoku.pl Sushi Zushi The mania for sushi is in recess, and that’s a good thing – the rogue operators are dead or dying off, and are survived by the best. And make no mistake, Sushi Zushi continue to be one of the No. 1 ex-pat choices. Appreciated by a stunning crowd, the rolls are often bold, creative and always astonishingly fresh.

(D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 420 3373, sushizushi.pl Tomo While many of Warsaw’s other sushi stops gather cobwebs Tomo packs out each night – that should say enough.

With the maki, sushi and sashimi bobbing past on wooden platters, this place aims for fast, maximum turnover without ever making the diner feel second best. (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2344, tomo.pl Uki Uki How much do the locals appreciate Warsaw’s original udon bar? Enough to queue outside the door? That’s right.

Dining is a close quarters experience here, but is done so without complaint: that electric pasta maker turns out noodles of such chewy goodness that everyone leaves beaming. (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, tel. 728 827 705, ukiuki.pl Wabu Sushi becomes a heaven’s gate spiritual experience in Wabu with the evening passing in a blur of beautiful compositions, of silky slithers of fish crowned with expert pinches of this, and little brush strokes of that. That’s all elevated even further by deliciously upscale interiors befitting of the Spire location.

(A4) Pl. Europejski 2 (Warsaw Spire), wabu.pl

korean The Cool Cat Proving something other than just a faddish flash in the fire, The Cool Cat has caught the zeitgeist by the horns and come to represent the hip Powiśle style; casual and convivial and absent of aloofness, it’s a place in which all life seems to gather for a taste of good times.

Refusing to take themselves too seriously, the angle is fun and forward-thinking, something that’s evidenced by way of an occasionally wacky menu of Americanized Asian food: the K-Fries (a big messy mass of kimchi, chips, bulgogi beef) are spot on. (F4) ul. Solec 38, tel. 787 698 700 The Cool Cat TR A hip venue that offsets all the concrete colors with flashes of contemporary art and waterfalls of greenery that tumble over the windows. The overt hipness is reflected by a crowd that’s heavy on tattoos, piercings and odd urban style: you know you’re somewhere cool. Food, that’s a playful spin on Korean cuisine and includes chicken wings in hot gochochung sauce or more-ish soft-shell tacos with bulgogi sauce and water greens. Blips aren’t unknown, but the missteps tend to be forgiven: you can’t help but love what they’re trying to do.

(D6) ul. Marszałkowska 8 Koreanka A courtyard cubbyhole that’s scuffed, informal and fashionably ramshackle.

Such has been the stir created by it, diners arrive in the knowledge that they’ll be scavenging a table and eating what little might be leftover from another sell-out day. Yet here’s the point of contention: is it really all that’s cracked up? The kimchi is exemplary, but not everything works so well. Though raved about by Warsaw’s Instagrammers, we were left disenchanted by the shallow, empty tastes of the bulgogi. (D6) ul.

Koszykowa 59 KoreaTown Rest Here, the ubiquitous KFC (Korean fried chicken) is all crunch and crackle and the bulgogi tender, juicy and the right side of sweet; accompanying them, an assortment of bitey dishes heaving with chilli flecked kimchi, daikon radish and pickled

EAT! Listings bits and bobs. All very good, but nothing compared to the bossam, braised pork belly scooped up by hand inside glistening perilla leaves: it’s a dish that soothes, gratifies and leaves diners looking every bit as pleased as the pipe-smoking tiger that gazes from the wall. (E9) ul. Olesińska 2, fb.com/KoreaTownRest Miss Kimchi Cheap and cheerful Korean street food served in a small, steamy space that’s frequently packed to the rafters. Box sets come piled high with meat, rice and veg.

The spotlight falls on the bibimbap, a satisfying mess of shredded veg, lively spices, a fried egg and beef bulgogi. This is replenishment in its truest form. (B4) ul. Żelazna 58/62, tel. 570 186 066 Onggi Positive transformations aren’t confined to Ramsay’s Kitchen Nightmares: after a dreadful start characterized by bland, claggy dishes, this Korean restaurant has spun a U-turn that’s left the competition reeling. The menu is daunting in size, but contains wildly interesting finds such as a streaky bacon stir fry, spicy pickled Daikon radish and lotus root simmered in soy sauce. (D2) ul. Moliera 2 Powidoki Set in the cool white cube that is the Museum of Modern Art, you’d think that Powidoki’s riverfront location would make it a highly seasonal destination.

Not so. Though the menu’s brief and the background highly casual, the Korean choices feel more sophisticated and complex than anywhere else, a point that serves to keep business brisk. (E2) ul.

Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 22 Sora Maybe it’s not the best, but it’s certainly the best-known Korean restaurant in town. The tabletop BBQ sets are an essential order and ideal for the shared bonding experience. It all tastes even better with copious quantities of Makkoli wine. (A4) ul.

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latin & spanish Casa Pablo “We give Spanish food a new twist,”

declares chef Gonzalo de Salas, which explains why, in between pungent cheeses and acorn-fed Bellota ham, we find ourselves demolishing a variety of dishes that buck all notions of tradition: as a starter the beetroot-marinated salmon served with wasabi emulsion is a fine example of this. With de Salas performing balletic tricks in the kitchen, Casa Pablo presents a masterful menu that ripples with adventure. (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5A, tel.

22 324 5781, casapablo.pl

Ceviche Bar Created by the Argentine chef supreme, Martin Gimenez Castro, Warsaw’s first specialist ceviche bar serves up various interpretations of this classic raw fish dish: the corvina is an explosion of peppy, citrusy tastes and leaves you in no doubt as to why ceviche is cresting in popularity around the rest of the world. Try for yourself inside a contemporary space in which the dining area merges seamlessly with a kitchen decorated with a mural of Maradona (boo!). Perfect for your weekend warm-up, a big thumbs-up goes to their Latin-inspired cocktails: the pisco sour is in a league of its own. (C4) ul. Twarda 4, cevichebar.pl El Botellon A smart locale whose concrete shell is colored with strings of peppers and splashes of art: pleasant in a familiar kind of New Warsaw sense. Much more special is a menu that features snacky tapas sets, sexy canapes, Latin themed cocktails and – something to get you counting down till summer – the Botellon ice pop sticking out of a glass of wine. Coherent, consistent and well-thought out, it’s an operation that slots in smoothly with modern Powiśle.

(F4) ul. Solec 18, elbotellon.pl Tapas Gastrobar The popular practice is to order so many plates and bottles that the table becomes a Magic Eye of kaleidoscope patterns.

A great place for sharing and general interaction, the ambiance and quality belies the corporate anonymity of the

UL. PRÓŻNA 10 TEL: 577 607 775 restauracjasanthai.pl warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings location. Though the gazapcho is first class it’s bettered by the patatas bravos: fried potatoes in a ballsy tomato sauce.

(A4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 251 1310, tapasbar.pl Restaurante Bunuel Spanish-owned Bunuel has left many in raptures. Simple interiors focus attention on the food, which in this case involves a crisp gazpacho that gets you missing summer, and grilled meats that leave many in a swoon. (H4) ul. Walecznych 61, tel. 798 659 554, bunuel-restauracja.com

mexican Dos Tacos Who doesn’t like asking for something that’s ‘under the counter’. In the case of Dos Tacos, doing so means inquiring about their range of ‘salsa clandestinas’: extra hot sauces designed for reckless

thrill-seekers. But the true secret weapon at Dos Tacos is Isabel Balderas, a Mexican chef that has mastered the bright, bold tastes of her native country. This cuisine has enjoyed a breakout year in Warsaw, but while the millennials clamor over new food trucks and funky little start-ups, Dos Tacos is a timely reminder that the old guard sometimes know best. (D4) ul.

Jasna 22, tel. 22 243 4618, dostacos.pl

22 848 9523, gringobar.pl

Gringo Bar A Mexican wave is upon us, and high time too. After years of suffering frozen ingredients, timid flavors and daft Mariachi music to persuade us it’s all authentic, a raft of new cut-price eateries are showing the rest how it’s done.

Cooked and folded by fist bumping lads in back-to-front caps and baggy t-shirts, the food at Gringo is fiery, fresh and full of zing. There are detractors who claim this is a Polonized version of this cuisine, but the informal Gringo remains one of the market leaders. (E9) ul. Odolańska 15, tel.

La Sirena You don’t even have to think twice when asked to name the best Mexican in the capital. Inspired by the ultra-violent films of Danny Trejo, the hardcore interior heaves with machetes, holy shrines, skulls and wire mesh; but if La Sirena looks fab, it tastes even better. Introducing a new dimension to Warsaw’s parched Mexican landscape, highlights inc. poblano peppers stuffed with pork/beef, peach, apple and apricots, as well as a ‘near death’ salsa that’s finally living up to its name. (D5) ul. Piękna 54

La Catrina Small enough to hear the Mexican chef bantering with the owners, this cheerful spot is all cacti, sombreros and jaunty little finishes. A lettuce overdose detracts from the burritos, but the Al Pastor tacos are generally seen as a force of good. (H4) ul. Francuska 31

We’ve been thrilling Warsaw with authentic Lebanese tastes for 21 years!

Le Cedre Lounge Grzybowska 5A Tel 22 299 7299

Le Cedre 61

(opposite the zoo) Al. Solidarności 61, Praga Tel 22 670 1166

Le Cedre 84

(opposite the court) Al. Solidarności 84 Tel 22 618 8999

www.lecedre.pl

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EAT! Listings Margarita Kolendra First impressions reveal a venue that looks like it wasn’t so much put together on the cheap as it was put together overnight. In essence, you’re left eyeing a sparse white room emboldened by a vulgar assortment of garish, peasant fabrics. The menu, though limited and restrictive, is one of those magic works of passion so rarely seen on Warsaw’s Mexican map.

These are dishes delivered with real dash and spirit: if in doubt, order the Al Pastor tacos. (F1) ul. Okrzei 35, fb.com/ MargaritaKolendra The Mexican Everything Mexican food shouldn’t be. There’s zero zing, and no matter what you order anticipate mysterious gloop with lots of mashed cabbage.

It’s all such a shame, because with its burbling fountain and courtyard location The Mexican looks like it could be the real deal. Find their latest imposter

hawking for custom on Zgoda 6. (D1) ul.

Podwale 29, tel. 22 635 3232, mexican.pl Spoco Loco It begins with a bead of sweat. Then a couple of tears. Then the real pain starts and doesn’t retract until you’ve rolled on the floor and died for twenty minutes. Spoco Loco’s No. 7 sauce is no laughing matter and should be treated with respect. But this tiny eatery (it’s essentially one bench) is not founded on gimmicks. The burritos and quesadillas are decent in the comfort food kind of way, and ably supported by a choice of milder sauces that don’t require Red Cross treatment. (H4) ul. Francuska 8, spocoloco.pl Urban Burritos Super casual in style, this crowded little haunt fills with embassy workers from the US Embassy, a ringing endorsement if ever there were. Offering fillings of pork, beef, chicken and Portobello

mushrooms, well-constructed wraps come served with salsas that sing with gusto. (D6) ul. Piękna 22, tel. 577 073 937, urbanburritos.pl

middle eastern

Dom Faraona Sitting just off Nowy Świat, this Egyptian restaurant comes soaked in the soothing scent of the sheesha. The comprehensive menu has plenty of zingy Middle Eastern small plates for starters, though really earns its stripes on account of its grill dishes: the lamb ribs are a house specialty. (E4) ul. Ordynacka 13, dom-faraona.com

La Brasserie Moderne is a modern interpretation of traditional brasserie designed to bring the taste of the French art de vivre right to your table.

Discover a seasonal menu skillfully crafted by our Chef Maciej Majewski, who combined the finest culinary traditions of France with local flavors and a modern twist. Our open kitchen will complement your dining experience by making you feel you’re participating in a live culinary show. During the summer time, we also invite you to enjoy our signature dishes on an outdoor terrace.

E-mail: brasserie.moderne@sofi tel.com Tel.: +48 22 657 83 82 www.facebook.com/brasserie.moderne

Visit us Mon – Sun: 12 p.m. – 11 p.m. | 11 Królewska St | 00-065 Warsaw

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EAT! Listings

Le Cedre With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops.

(E1) Al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166, lecedre.pl

Le Cedre Lounge Furnished in voluptuous Middle Eastern style, the latest subsidiary of the Le Cedre empire bursts with fancy sheesha pipes, extravagant rugs and shimmery satin drapes. It’s a look that’s fun, familiar, intimate and warm. Less encyclopedic than that of its two sister ventures, Le Cedre Lounge has a slimmer menu that introduces several new tastes to fans of Lebanese cuisine. Helplessly more-ish, it’s food that’s in line with the vibey atmosphere and casual air. (C4) ul.

Grzybowska 5A, tel. 22 299 7299, lecedre.pl

Le Cedre 84 Le Cedre just keep on getting it right.

Authenticity is key in this chainlette (well, there’s another across the river), as you’ll discover when talking to Tony, the Lebanese owner. To see the diversity of this cuisine, order the balbaak (six cold starters) or the byblos (six hot).

And food aside, it’s the atmosphere that carries them that extra yard: the whole philosophy of this cuisine is to share and share alike, making it a uniquely engaging experience when dining with friends. (B3) Al. Solidarności 84, tel. 22 618 8999, lecedre.pl

Samira There was something a little seedy about Samira’s old location, but that’s all forgotten in their new digs on Powsińska. Find this great Lebanese supermarket filling a dual role as an authentic restaurant serving authentic dishes such as kafta and shawarma. ul. Powsińska 64a, tel. 22 825 3363, samira.pl

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Shuk Located behind Hala Banacha in this gradually blooming district of Warsaw, SHUK’s certainly worth the tram ride if you’re not a native Ochotian. An offshoot

of the acclaimed Mezze, highlights on our visit included a well-seasoned Arabic soup with lentils and spinach followed by a skillet of fried oyster mushrooms cooked with onions and served alongside harissa topped with rose petals. You’re looking at quite a special place that realigns your mojo on an ashen Warsaw day. ul. Grójecka 127 Sokotra Casting a warm, steamy glow over this corner of Wilcza, Sokotra is a welldesigned nook with a rough, urban edge: telegraph poles, bare bulbs and exposed lumps of concrete. Yemeni dishes are available though it’s the Indian food that shines – the Madras is intense, pungent and suitably fiery. (D5) ul. Wilcza 27, tel. 22 270 2766, sokotra.pl

polish Bazyliszek Some parts of Bazyliszek hark to its years as a stately, stuffy restaurant.

Now though it’s more earthy, with Jurassic portions of meaty, lardy food best consumed with one-liter beers. The Rynek location and festive atmosphere account for its popularity more than anything that comes from the kitchen.

(D1) Rynek Starego Miasto 1/3, tel. 22 831 1841, bazyliszek.waw.pl

EAT! Listings

H A L A KO S Z Y K I

street food Hala Gwardii Housed in a red brick hall dating from the Tsarist era, Gwardii opens up as a sensory big bang of smell, taste, sight and sound. Framed by a market on one side, and food units on the other, it’s a catch-all social solution that shines the spotlight on independent vendors offering something new: raclette from the ultra-cool couple at Melt, skewers of meat from the gossipy gang at Brasil On The Plate, and Colombian-style sarnies from cheerful San Escobar. There’s more, of course, but you’ll need to investigate those yourself – doing so takes several visits, something that nobody minds at all. (C3) Pl. Mirowska 2, halagwardii.pl Hala Koszyki Nirvana for the aspirational classes, careful surgery has preserved the heritage of this early 20th century marketplace and juxtaposed it against the urban tapestry of modern Warsaw. Appealing to everyone from foodies and families to Instagram scenesters, its success has sparked a nationwide wave of doubles and duplicates. But despite their best efforts, none come close to feeling quite so global. Not ones to stand still, May saw the addition of a narrow indoor avenue towards the back flanked on each side by busy street food stalls retailing all from vegan kebabs to super duper Korean noodles. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63, koszyki.com Nocny Market Set on and around a disused train platform, this week-

end hangout gets thronged with crowds clamoring over an ever-evolving line-up brings together not just food trucks, but quality restaurants hawking their specials from tiny stalls – keep an eye on their facebook to see who is booked for the weekend. More than just a hyper-cool collection of ethnic food vendors, the Nocny Market has become the place to get tattooed in front of leering strangers, stock up on artisan donuts, swag some indigo-colored Palace of Culture socks or simply boogie on down to DJs straight from the Golden Years of Hipster. All about good vibes, big beats and beery, blurry nights, enjoy it while you can – this summer will be their last, at least in this location. (A5) ul. Towarowa 3 (Warszawa Główna Train Station) Slow Market There are, it goes without saying, plenty of other food points on the riverfront, but none offer as much variation. Operating on weekends, find the area around Plac Zabaw surrendered to a couple of dozen open-air stalls specializing in, among other cuisines, Spanish, Korean, Georgian and Indian. Mixed into one pungent cloud, just the enticing aromas are reason enough to visit. (E2) Plac Zabaw, fb.com/placzabawnadwisla Targ Śniadaniowy You could well argue that it was Targ Śniadaniowy that originally kicked-off Warsaw’s street food revolution.

Despite the name (which, if you don’t know, translates to mean The Breakfast Market), it’s more than just a morning feed. Running through the afternoon, this weekend legend is a little bit of everything: park picnic, food market, music space – you might even find someone to fix your two-wheeler. Various locations, targsniadaniowy.pl

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Traditional Polish Cuisine,

Ĺťurek

(traditional sour rye soup)

Golonka

(roast pork knuckle)

Placki Ziemniaczane

(potato pancake with gulash)

We serve Polish dishes on hot pans and sizzling cast iron and are winners of many culinary competitions Hand making our own pierogi since 1913 Pierogi Truskawkowe Strawberry dumplings

but don’t miss the pierogi OUR LOCATIONS IN WARSAW U L . K R A KO W S K I E P R Z E D M I E Ś C I E 5 5 | T E L . 2 2 6 9 2 7 2 0 4 U L . N O W Y Ś W I AT 6 4 | T E L . 2 2 6 9 2 4 1 3 5 AL. JEROZOLIMSKIE 28 | TEL. 22 826 7484 U L . F R E TA 1 | T E L . 2 2 8 3 1 6 1 9 0 UL. ŚWIĘTOJAŃSKA 13 | TEL. 22 635 6109 U L . F R E TA 1 8 | T E L . 2 2 6 3 5 7 9 5 9

EAT! Listings Bar Gdański A refit has seen the plastic plants, putrid smells and that slow feeling of death replaced by a fresher look in keeping with the times. Despite this, the historic core of this milk bar has been retained including the daffodil colors and original floor tiles. How’s the food? Cheap. That’s probably the kindest thing you can say about it. Despite that, Gdański feels like an essential part of the community. (B1) ul.

Andersa 33, fb.com/bargdanskimuranow Belvedere Łazienki Królewskie Set in an imperial age glass orangery, it’s festooned with intricate latticework and botanical exotica. The updated interiors are the work of acclaimed set designer Boris Kudlicka, and lend a fresh, contemporary tone that goes hand in hand with the menu. But behind the gels and emulsions and pretty little swirls, this is cooking of substantial depth; it’s cooking that takes you to the very soul of Polish nature. (F8) ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. 22 558

6701, belvedere.com.pl Bez Gwiazdek BEST WAWA 2017 “Modern Polish” BEST WAWA 2017 “Chef” While Bez Gwiazdek rejects the core principles of fine dining, don’t for one minute expect anything less than food that whispers refined sophistication.

Focusing each month on a different region of the country, Robert Trzópek’s tasting menu takes diners to the very heart of the Polish soul and does so via tastes that betray his fine dining background: delicate and precise, it’s the polar opposite of the standard Polski feast. Just when you thought you had worked out the nation’s cuisine, along comes Robert Trzópek to rewrite the rules. (E3) ul. Wiślana 8, bezgwiazdek.com.pl Bistro Pod Sowami Talk of Praga’s revival feels a bit more serious now that Bistro Pod Sowami has opened. From the outside, this corner

tenement is a study in neo-gothic indulgence. On the inside, the muted elegance is perfectly partnered by the cooking of Damian Wajda. His cooking presents pre-war dishes as seen through a colorful, modern lens. (F1) ul. Okrzei 26, fb.com/bistropodsowami Ćma by Mateusz Gessler Open round-the-clock, Ćma has rescued the city’s night owls from the evil clutches of the center’s grisly kebab dens. Set against an edgy, moth-themed interior designed by guerilla artist Tomasz Górnicki, this on-trend nightspot elevates late night dining to new heights with a menu that involves modernized Polish delicacies such as sausage with horseradish emulsion, black pudding with apple and… goose stomachs. (D6) ul.

Koszykowa 63, mateuszgessler.com.pl Czerwony Wieprz An amusing restaurant that looks back at communism through a rose-tinted

H A R M O N I Z E D BY C H E F G A B R I E L D E G A R C I A , D I S C O V E R W H AT H A P P E N S W H E N T H E PA S S I O N AT E TA S T E S O F S PA I N M E E T T H E M I N I M A L I S T P R E C I S I O N O F J A PA N …

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EAT! Listings lens. Under the glowering gaze of commie tyrants, staff dressed like obedient members of the party’s Youth League deliver hefty dishes from a cheeky menu that is in itself a collector’s item. (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 22 850 3144, czerwonywieprz.pl Delicja Polska Looking stately (pink bows, gilt touches and immaculate linen) but never stuffy, Delicja have a modern Polish menu that includes sous-vide salmon marinated in beetroot leaves, then topped with horseradish foam and dill emulsion. Brilliant.

But then so was everything else we tried, including the exquisite seasoned roast beef. (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 64, tel. 22 826 4770, delicjapolska.pl Dom Polski Almost like it was designed for the manor born, Dom Polski has the rarefied atmosphere of a country retreat: bow-tied staff who click their heels, decorative antiques and a menu that’s a sumptuous

anthology of posh Polish cooking. When you need to give visitors a sense of classic Warsaw, Dom Polski is the first out of the hat. (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 2432, restauracjadompolski.pl Dom Polski Belwederska Accessed via curling pathways and bursting shrubs this restaurant conjures images of an aristocrat’s manor. The air of privilege matches a menu that’s rich in fanciful classics such as their signature goose. Elegant and exquisite, consider it your default choice for a taste of true Poland. (F8) ul. Belwederska 18A, tel. 22 840 5060, restauracjadompolski.pl Elixir by Dom Wódki There are some who call the food here ‘deconstructed Polish’. In actuality, ‘reconstructed’ would be closer to the mark. The chef has taken local classics and redrafted the recipes with the swoosh of a contemporary pen. The outcome is a pleasure from start to

finish: a life affirming żurek, a tartar that could fulfill ambassadorial duties for Poland, and a handsome beef tenderloin sprinkled with crispy potato shavings.

Thoughtful pairings with lesser-known, boutique vodkas add another dimension that serves to complete this pleasing, patriotic adventure. (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl Folk Gospoda If you missed the last train to Zakopane, then a night in Folk Gospoda is the next best thing. Kitted out like a typical tavern in the Tatras, it’s a good-humored celebration of mountain-slope traditions: heaps of meat and lard with plenty of vodka and song in between. (B3) ul.

Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605, folkgospoda.pl Gospoda Kwiaty Polskie Bursting with flowers and rural touches, entering Gospoda isn’t unlike clambering inside an old granny’s attic. Cheerful in look and style, the rustic energy extends

Flavours of Warsaw - traditional Polish cuisine with a distinctive modern touch. Everything is made from fresh seasonal ingredients.

Enjoy, among many others, zander sausage served with blanched broad bean and peas.

Or try our mouth watering veal dumplings in broth of dried mashrooms and truffle oil.

Or perhaps you have a taste for duck breast with bean puree with French potatoes and marinated strawberries.

To finish off delight in our home made pastries.

Restaurant and Pastry +48 22 621 82 68 Żurawia str. 47/48, Warsaw Pastry and Cafe +48 608 046 406 Felińskiego str. 52, Warsaw www.smakiwarszawy.com

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EAT! Listings to enthusiastic portions of Polish classics. (D1) ul. Wąski Dunaj 4/6/8, gospodakwiatypolskie.pl Jaś & Małgosia Insouciant one moment, your best friend the next, the staff at Jaś & Małgosia show the two faces of Polish service brilliantly. Reactivated a couple of years ago, this gem has a story dating back to the 60s, and a great atmosphere primed for simple food and local drinks. (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 57, klubjasimalgosia.pl Kieliszki na Próżnej You’ll find Kieliszki na Próżnej, the latest restaurant to mark the rehabilitation of Próżna, so named after the 1,116 wineglasses that hang tantalizingly over the bar. As an anchor feature the suspended glassware is arresting and equaled only by a long stretch of wall art doodled by Mariusz Tarkawian. The food matches up to the interiors, with a modern Polish menu that – on our visit – involved a thick, brilliantly spreadable foie gras pate, a thick slab of brawn and a delicate piece of moist Baltic cod. It’s pure seasonal comfort. (C3) ul. Próżna 12, tel. 501 764 674, kieliszkinaproznej.pl Mała Polana Smaków Few chefs have done more to rehabilitate Poland’s culinary reputation than Andrzej Polan – a crusader for seasonal tastes and regional produce, his is a menu that gives mundane sounding ingredients new impetus: you’ve had herring before, just not like this. Hell, even the humble dumpling is given an overdue makeover. Looking warm and woodsy, this super small restaurant has emerged to become a major figure on the national restaurant scene. (F9) ul.

Belwederska 13/44, polanasmakow.pl Podwale Piwna Kompania Prowling mountain bands generate a beer hall atmosphere, while the courtyard garden – designed to replicate a Mitteleuropa square – is one of the best you’ll find. But the obscene portions can’t mask what is pretty poor food. Go there for the experience, if nothing else. (D2) ul.

Podwale 25, tel. 22 635 6314, podwale25.pl Prasowy Delicate diners turn their back on milk bars, yet this canteen-style phenomenon,

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with its history rooted in communism, has enjoyed a remarkable renaissance and a freshly found popularity with a new generation. Sure, the food is an acquired taste and best described using words like ‘basic’, ‘bland’ and ‘honest’, but Prasowy gets our vote for a cool design that’s seen the 1954 interiors sensitively updated.

(E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16 Restauracja Polska “Różana” The rarified atmosphere of Różana is a pleasure indeed. Close to the frontline of Mokotów / Śródmieście, you’d never guess the proximity of the center. Seated in their garden, one feels removed from the city – a fountain burbles quietly in the background, starlings hop around the trees. From the inside, one hears the distant tinkle of the house pianist. Just being here is a thrill in itself, and the food is a Polish dining extravaganza served from the top table: farmhouse duck, saddle of venison, etc. (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 22 848 1225, restauracjarozana.com.pl Schabowy Red gingham tablecloths are just about the only decorative element in this plain Jane restaurant; aesthetics don’t figure highly, and that much is clear through an approach to plating presentation that’s best described as basic. But boy, they can cook – simple but delicious, the food here is Polish home cooking at its best: great ingredients used to even greater effect.

As the name suggests, schabowy is the star, and here you’ll find it served in three different forms. ul. Obrzeżna 1, fb.com/ schabowy.warszawa Stary Dom A classic restaurant in style and history: back in the day it was a favorite haunt of jockeys and race goers from the horse track nearby. Pre-war recipes form the basis of the menu, with the team using seasonal produce and the latest technology to bring out its best. ul. Puławska 104/106, tel. 22 646 4208,

Stolica Set in one of Old Town’s smaller, lesser-known squares, Stolica charms

with its pre-war, slightly formal ambiance: pristine white tablecloths and spotless mirrors combine with classic Warsaw tunes to generate a storybook atmosphere straight from the pages of Tuwim and Gombrowicz. Food-wise, you’re looking at typically local dishes such as venison marinated in bison grass vodka.

(D1) ul. Szeroki Dunaj 1/3, restauracjastolica.com Talerzyki It sounds a little absurd, but Talerzyki manage the implausible by Polonizing the concept of tapas and coming up trumps. Fiercely Polish in spirit, the menu looks to revive the essence of inter-war Warsaw with its selection of classic recipes presented in scaled-down form: blood pudding with apple and cinnamon; beef tongue and horseradish; and white sausage with fermented flour sauce. It sounds glum and gory but its anything but – and the style mavens of Mokotowska appear to agree. (D6) ul. Mokotowska 33/35 U Fukiera New arrivals looking to get a grasp of local cuisine have many options in varying price brackets. U Fukiera is definitely in the big spend category, but visitors come away with a common sense of wonderment. That’s largely due to enchanting interiors that have guests exploring twinkling chambers that unravel like a fairytale. Set in a 500-year-old townhouse, the beautiful backdrop is accompanied by a grand menu of duck, venison, veal and lamb. (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 27 (Old Town Market Square), tel. 22 831 1013, ufukiera.pl U Szwejka Named after the fictional Czech soldier Szwejk, the food here would certainly appeal to the tubby man himself. Served in an interior bestowed with Prague street signs, the food is a hardy, meaty affair, and arrives in XXXL portions. The price to quantity ratio guarantees queues (yes, queues) that stretch out on the street every weekend – but you have to wonder why. (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1710, uszwejka.pl Warszawski Sen By Mateusz Gessler A quite stunning restaurant dominated by dark geometric patterns and the installations and ideas of guerilla artist

EAT! Listings Tomasz Górnicki. Once you’ve caught your breath and snapped off a few pics for your Instagram, settle in for a menu that gives Polish ingredients a highly contemporary treatment. If you thought Hala Koszyki was buzzing, then this edgy space is perhaps its biggest buzz of all. ul.

Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki), mateuszgessler.com.pl

Zapiecek Seven Warsaw locales, with our favorite found in the vaulted passages of Świętojańska. The menu is highly traditional, with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’. It’s for the pierogi though for which they’re famous; find approx. fifty types delivered by servers dressed like saucy country maids. Locations inc. ul.

Nowy Świat 64, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska 13, tel. 22 635 61 09, & ul. Wańkowicza 1, zapiecek.eu Zielony Niedźwiedź A sanctuary of elegant fancy, it’s a place of long, dark shadows and discreet decorative touches: From the outset, you’re made to feel that good things will happen, and this they do. Certified by Poland’s fledgling slow food movement, the menu gives star billing to the suppliers that keep the pantry full; but the truth is these aren’t the only heroes. Taking the reins in June, new chef Oliwia Bernady has grown in stature and skill preparing a daily tinkered menu that opens your eyes to the real tastes of Poland. (E4) ul. Smolna 4, tel. 795 794 784, kafezn.pl Zoni Housed in a former vodka distillery, the immense interior reveals cast iron kilns, flooring made from recovered vodka barrels and numerous post-industrial pieces that have been lovingly restored. But the real talking point in Aleksander Baron, a chef nationally known for his devotion to local ingredients and little-known techniques. We loved the tomato assiette, not to mention a T-bone heavier than an artillery round. Aged in such a way as to allow aspergillus mushrooms to grow into the meat, it’s a glorious piece of cooking that makes the heart roar. And dessert?

A chilled sphere of calf brain mousse the

incorporates vanilla, brown butter and caramel. So far, there’s been no better launch this year. (G1) Pl. Konesera 1, muzeumpolskiejwodki.pl

scandinavian Nabo The décor is, we’re told, typical Danish cafe – bold open windows, simple lines, high shelves filled with books and games on the table. But what is Danish food? There’s Old Danish on the menu: meatballs and open face sandwiches with meat and fish in various textural configurations and then there’s New Danish: an emerging trend towards fresh, seasonal food with locally sourced and innovatively concocted ingredients. ul. Zakręt 8, tel. 22 842 0256, nabocafe.pl

seafood

L’Arc French in style, seafood dominates the menu of L’Arc with the lobster and oysters a particular standout. Enjoy it inside a classic interior that feels assuredly upscale. (E8) ul. Puławska 16, larc.pl Lokal na Rybę Open just three days a week, the limited hours have created a supply / demand situation which sees this basic-looking venue often packed out. The menu is revised on a weekly basis though never really goes beyond three starters and a couple of mains – but that’s all they need to captivate the public. In recent times, octopus goulash and smoked herring pierogi have played distinctive roles. (D9) ul. Kwiatowa 1/3/4, fb.com/lokalnarybe U Rysia Devoid of frills bar a glowing neon sign and a brooding mural of Jesus, it looks like a Polish fish restaurant should – basic but with an undercurrent of bustle that keeps the mood bright. It tastes like the warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings real thing as well. Sourcing their catch from the freshwater lakes of northern Poland, the offer is divided into fish that have been smoked, steamed, fried or baked. Check out the perch ‘chips’ fried in batter. (C4) ul. Marszałkowska 140 (enter from ul. Rysia), urysia.com.pl

specialty food shops Bazar Olkuska Once a sad little side street, Olkuska has evolved to become just about the worst kept secret in Warsaw. Home to the city’s top eco-market, trips here end with shopping bags filled with French cheeses, Italian hams, Hungarian sausages and fresh fruit and veg. (E10) ul. Olkuska 12 Befsztyk The Prokopowicz family has come a long way since launching Befsztyk in 1994.

Top restaurants, celebs and ex-pats are listed as clients, and all agree that this operation is indisputably ‘top of the chops’. Find steaks seasoned for three weeks, gluten-free smoked meats, Merino lamb, BBQ kits and so much more. Home delivery, internet ordering and English-speaking staff round out this legend. many locations, befsztyk.pl

BioBazar With its previous home in Wola undergoing a substantial redevelopment, the BioBazar has moved to Mokotów. At the forefront of Poland’s food revolution, it’s a place that shines a light on ecologically certified goods and produce. Fresh fish, cheese, eggs, bread, cured sausages, honey... on it goes. Comprehensive in its pitch, everything you need to pursue a bright, happy life is here on this spot. ul.

Wołoska 3, biobazar.com.pl (B4) ul. Żelazna 51/53, biobazar.org.pl British Shop British food and beverages inc. cider, bacon, sausages, gluten free ready meals, confectionary etc. Run by the same team who once operated Fish & Chips on Koszykowa, the offer has now expanded to cover non-food items like Royal Wedding souvenirs, England football paraphernalia, etc. (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 8, tel. 692 240 804 The Crazy Butcher Grzegorz Kwapniewski, better known as ‘Warsaw’s celebrity butcher’, has a new store in town, that being a corner unit in Hala Koszyki. Named by chefs across town as their principal source of meat, Kwapniewski’s offer includes Polish Red Angus, long-seasoned, marbled beef, not to mention veal, lamb, poultry and cured meats from small scale producers. ul.

Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki)

Dobrze Co-op The Dobrze Food Co-op aims to ‘widen access to healthy, seasonal food’ while also supporting sustainable agriculture.

Founded in summer, 2014, the project collaborates with over 20 farms and local businesses and sells fresh vegetables and fruit alongside cereals, dried goods and other bits and pieces. ul. Wilcza 29A & ul. Andersa 27, dobrze.waw.pl Forteca Kregliccy Spot the stars of Warsaw’s restaurant scene perusing the stalls at this weekly farmers’ market. Held each Wednesday, look for Pan Ziółko, Poland’s first celebrity farmer (!), Portobello’s from the country’s only organic mushroom farm and the magical yogurts from Mleczna Droga Manufaktura Serów. ul. Zakroczymska 12, kregliccy.eu/forteca Hala Gwardii Taking its cue from the market places of Lisbon and Marseilles, Hala Gwardii aims to reprise its former pre-war role as the city’s best-known food market. Designed to complement rather than compete with Hala Mirowska outside, the market is a sensory big bang with dozens of stalls specializing in everything from cheese and sausages, to rolled Thai ice cream and posh pet supplies. (C3) Pl. Mirowska 2, fb.com/halagwardii Kosher Shop Snuck to the side of the synagogue, stock up on Kosher produce from the friendly store, before hitting up the falafel tent outside for, aside from the obvious, kosher ice cream. (C4) ul. Twarda 6 Kram Housed in the DeFabryka development, Kram taps into Warsaw’s growing mania for artisan produce to present posh, made-on-the-day bread, fresh fruit and veg from local farms, as well as assorted goodies and pre-packaged items from acclaimed firms such as Rude Health, Cherry Tree, Mleczna Droga, etc. Covering every base imaginable, it’s cult status looks assured. ul. Duchnicka 3, facebook. com/kram.nativeingredients Kuchnie Świata The first stop for most ex-pats, with an offer that includes food and drinks from across the globe. The choice is vast but

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EAT! Listings mainly involves tinned and packaged products. Internet ordering now also available. Various locations, kuchnieswiata. com.pl Ostra Kuchnia A superb internet shop retailing quite literally the hottest sauces known to man: brands include Blair’s, Dave’s, El Yucateco, Mad Dog, Melinda’s and many more besides. Also sell jalapenos, chili peppers, salsas and pastes. Polish-only website, but easy to navigate and superb customer service. ostrakuchnia.pl

steak houses

Beef n’ Pepper Beef N’ Pepper presents itself in a buzzy urban flash of violet blue lighting, slick banquette seating and open kitchen action. Straight away, you get the feeling of being in a place that’s alive and active, a feeling that’s affirmed by a busy backlit bar from behind which black-shirted staff fling sunny cocktails for the after-work crowd. Of course, it’s the food angle that takes precedence, and at Beef N’ Pepper that translates to a decent choice of surf’n’turf. Highlights include thumping T-bones and a 60-day aged Argentinean top loin. (C5) ul. Nowogrodzka 47A, tel. 785 025 025, beefandpepper.pl Butchery & Wine The Sarf London-born Bertha oven has revolutionized the way steak is cooked, retaining moisture in a way no-one thought possible. Expect robust pieces of animal full of big, brawny tastes, but there’s so much more than just meat: starters involve a sea bass ceviche that pings with citrusy flavor not to mention more-ish pork crackling that pop like fire bangers in the mouth. A place of energy and ambition, it’s a great mix of both new and classic. Bookings advised. (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 502 3118, butcheryandwine.pl Ed Red Warszawa You can tell they’re serious about their meat just by looking at the starters: big,

juicy marrow bones, mountain oysters, blood sausage and calf’s brain. The steaks are the calling card though, and here you’ll find them dry aged and consumed with the aid of hunting knives. The desserts seem a lumpy afterthought, but they get enough right elsewhere (even decent craft beer at the bar) to keep that little more than a mild annoyance. (B3) Pl. Mirowski 1, edred.pl Evil Steakhouse Already successfully established in Poznań and Szceczin, Evil look to break the recent capital city trend towards higher class steakhouses by introducing a more casual approach to the dining process. In this case, though, casual does not mean inferior: expect dinosaur portions of steak and ribs delivered straight from the grill inside a laidback, straightforward space that’s gone for a rough-industrial look. (D4) ul. Świętokrzyska 3 Hoża Wine and steak: it sounds simple, but Hoża have taken two simple pleasures to another level. It’s an ebullient space with service right out of charm school, and a kitchen team with a real knowledge of cows. A red-blooded affair, the menu is a steak sensation and well paired with a handpicked wine list. (D5) ul. Hoża 25A, tel.

603 778 275, hoza.warszawa.pl Merliniego A classic looking steakhouse that swirls in shadow, brickwork and elegant touches, it’s a place to immerse yourself in an atmosphere that’s all surreptitious conversation and distant clinking glasses.

The steaks are out-of-this world, with USDA prime beef from New York’s legendary Ottomanelli & Sons and Scottish beef from London’s Smithfield Market.

On our last visit we splurged on the Grade 9+ wagyu ‘kobe’ rib-eye and found ourselves eating the steak of a lifetime.

Simply amazing. (E10) ul. Merlineiego 5, merliniego.pl Prime Cut Aimed at a higher class of customer, this showy steakhouse has shaken up the meat sector since it’s star studded launch at the beginning of summer. The beautiful, contemporary design is matched by a faultless menu – full report coming soon.

(C4) ul. Twarda 18, primecut.pl

GREAT FOOD

SEASONED POLISH STEAKS

WONDERFUL SERVICE

Beef n’ Pepper ul. Nowogrodzka 47a tel. +48 785 025 025 mon-sat: 12.00 - 24.00 sun: 12.00 - 23.00

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EAT! Listings thai Basil & Lime Reports have been hit and miss, with one Insider noting calamitous service and food that was both over and undercooked. Not on our visit, though. Short and to the point, the menu is defined by its clarity, and we enjoyed a phenomenal yellow curry and banana fritters with the right combo of crunch and goo. Beautifully decorated with charcoal colors and punches of lime, the Insider felt good long after visiting. Will you? (E8) ul. Puławska 27, tel. 22 126 1943, basil-lime.pl

San Thai Informal, airy surrounds; fair price points; and a menu that covers enough bases while never becoming overwhelming.

Surprisingly great cocktails add to the impression that this street is taking off as something of a scene. (C3) ul. Próżna 10, restauracjasanthai.pl Silk & Spicy If you don’t benchmark Silk & Spicy against what you’d eat in Asia (and you really shouldn’t), then you might enjoy it. “The curry was on taste-wise,” said our disappointed graphic, “but the cream cheese didn’t work in the sushi and the kmichi-style salad served at the beginning was very pedestrian for such a place.” (D5) ul. Żurawia 16/20, tel. 22 629 7012, silkandspicy.pl Thai Thai A visual feast of ink black colors and shimmering deities this is by far the most formal of Warsaw’s Thai options – and also the best. Peaks include a grilled beef salad full of citrusy twists, lively flavors and vibrant colors, and sundried pork neck that’s all manly crunch and nose-clearing sauce. And then there’s the tuna tartar, a dish zinging with fresh hits of coriander, mint, lime and chili. There’s no point in complimenting the chef, he’s heard it all before. (C2) Pl. Teatralny 3, tel.

601 818 283, thaithai.pl Thaisty The most successful business model

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pioneered in recent years? That’s the work of Thaisty, a bright, cheerful spot with a ‘street style’ and moderate prices – queues, at times, stretch out the door.

Vivid colors and a busy open kitchen lend the place a happy buzz that lasts through the day, yet despite this many have voiced concerns that Thaisty’s runaway success has come at a cost to the overall quality. Even so, the BBQ skewers remain a good order. (C2) Pl. Bankowy 4, tel. 730 000 024, thaisty.pl Why Thai A calming, almost holistic interior sets the tone for a meal dominated by the rich and aromatic tastes of Thailand.

For a lively, spicy start begin with a mango and cashew salad, before moving forward and onto their celebrated curries. Imported chefs keep the flavors authentic, with the pad Thai being something of a house favorite. (E5) ul.

Wiejska 13, tel. 22 625 7698, whythai.pl

ukrainian Kanapa This swish villa is a thoughtful essay in understated elegance: antique and classy, yet with enough eclectic touches to that add that little sense of home. The food fits the backdrop with cooking that feels adventurous in style yet traditional in its taste. The borscht, presented in a huge, hollowed out cabbage, incorporates cooked beetroot, stewed pears and plums, chunks of meat and a wallop of sour cream – these rich and raucous flavors are offset by highly sophisticated alternatives such as blobs of pike caviar and oyster cream on a delicate, crispy fish skin. (E8) ul. Narbutta 10, fb.com/ kanapa.restauracja

vegan & wholefood 30 Koszyków In light of the lavish, local vegan choice, critics could call the menu at 30 Koszyków a little mundane – hummus peaked three years ago, didn’t it? Yet while the concept might not feel new,

the execution does. From a limited set of choices, Koszyków’s fast expanding customer base enjoy a range of kick-ass hummus recipes that have acquired a serious following: the beetroot is highly recommended. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 30, fb.com/30koszykow Edamame Vegan Sushi Sushi without its star ingredient sounds ridiculous, but this vegan sushi joint manages to out-manoeuver its traditional competitors by replacing below-par fish with fresh, vegetarian produce: sugar snap peas, radish, carrots, asparagus, etc. The results are both magical and addictive, and leave you wondering if vegan sushi stands to be Warsaw’s next trend. (D5) ul. Wilcza 11, edamame.pl Eden Housed inside (and outside!) a modernist villa, Eden is by far the most exciting vegan launch for some time. Eat in a secluded courtyard garden complete with its own greenhouse, or indoors in a super cool space that feels arty and avant garde but also laidback and homey.

Handled by Michał Gniłka (he’s cooked for Keanu Reeves!), the food front involves grilled corn and avocado ceviche, ‘DIY’ grilled oyster mushroom tacos, and Malaysian-style laksa with sea buckthorn.

As for drinks, choose from third wave coffees, organic wines and a whole host of inventive house drinks. So far, everyone agrees that it’s a place to treasure. (G3) ul.

Jakubowska 16, edenbistro.pl Falafelove Cramped, sweaty and uncomfortable, Falafelove’s customers choose to overlook the aesthetic shortcomings for one very special reason: this is falafel that sets a new benchmark. Recommended is the spicy wrap, comprising of ‘red falafel’, humus, harissa, sundried tomatoes and tahini. If there’s space, join the others on the terrace outside. (C2) ul. Senatorska 40 Falla Both pricing and location combine to keep this venue blocked solid with a muddled mass of students from the uni nearby. Looking simple, maybe even spartan, crowds flock to this corner unit for recipes inspired by the Middle East and Asia: huge wraps tightly packed with pungent kimchi; generous pans

EAT! Listings brimming with shakshouka; and an array of hummus in unfamiliar forms – chipotle, coriander, carrot and more. (E3) ul. Oboźna 9, fb.com/falla.wawa Krowarzywa Tatts, hats and plaid shirts aplenty in Krowarzywa: a survivor of the hipster era, for many it’s the epitome of Warsaw’s vegan scene. The burgers set a benchmark that all but a few fail to surpass. (D5) ul.

Marszałkowska 27/35, tel. 881 777 894 ul.

Hoża 29/31, krowarzywa.pl ul. Hoża 29/31, krowarzywa.pl Kuchnia Konfliktu First came a food truck, then a cargo container. Now, Kuchnia Konfliktu have a legit address they can finally call home.

First founded to provide work for refugees fleeing conflict zones, this social project has won acclaim not just for social initiative, but more importantly its food. With employees hailing from the likes of Iran,

Afghanistan, Chechnya and Iraq, prepare to dive deep into the exotic. Full review next issue. (D5) ul. Wilcza 60

Leonardo Verde Geometric patterns, plant arrangements and the large format illustrative artwork of Dominique A. Faryno decorate Leonardo Verde, an upmarket – but inexpensive – Italian joint. Pizza is the forte – order the ‘hot romantic’, a combo featuring chili, avocado and tabasco. (D5) ul. Poznańska 13, fb.com/leonardo.verde. restaurant Lifemotiv Aiming to ‘uncover the new potential of millet, buckwheat, kale, beet and cabbage’, Lifemotiv is living proof of how far dining in shopping center food courts

has advanced. Kick-off the day with a hummus wrap or an acai smoothie bowl, or check-in later for a Portobello & BBQ burger, or a zingy Mango & Chipotle salad.

Keeping in mind the rest of the world, non-vegetarians have the option to add free range chicken to their salad, wraps or bowls of kasha. ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), lifemotiv.com.pl Lokal Vegan Bistro Aside from a small menu consisting of more standard vegan offers, Lokal keep Homer Simpson characters in mind with regular guest slots for street food that’s given a full vegan makeover. Offhand, that’s meant vegan kebabs, cheesesteaks, burgers and zapiekanka, all of which have been pretty damn good. (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, 517 615 122 Momencik Steamy, tight and sweaty, this pokey subterranean cavern has one key thing

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EAT! Listings going for it: burritos that outrank the majority of ‘proper Mexicans’ in town.

The salsas, too, are magnificent (ooh, pineapple), arguably the best in the city.

(D5) ul. Poznańska 16 Tel Aviv “People shouldn’t be excluded from high standards just because they’ve chosen the vegan path,” says Malka Kafka, the owner of Tel Aviv. As such, find a plantbased menu that gives the tastes of Israel a fancy schmancy style – so fancy that Depeche Mode ate here last summer!

(D5) ul. Poznanska 11, restauracjatelaviv.pl Vegan Ramen Shop Co-joining two fads is always a risky business – just ask Loco Mexicana. All of a sudden, the focus doesn’t fall on just getting one thing right, but two. But despite this double-headed challenge Vegan Ramen have struck gold on account of their complex bowls of restorative goodness: their fan base extends way beyond the boundaries of Saska Kępa. Enjoy in a cool interior filled with cute Japanese props on dozens of ‘levitating shelves’.

(G3) ul. Finlandzka 12A Veg Deli An entrance beset with candles, plant pots and seasonal veg charms people in, and they tend to stay on to dine on creative vegetarian options that nearly always hit the spot. The tacos are a bit of

a disappointment, but the quinoa burger is fabulous, and the homemade Russian pierogi an absolute highlight. Even committed meat eaters recognize there’s something special going on here. (E3) ul.

Radna 14 Wegeneracja Warsaw’s vegan revolution is spreading outwards, and with places like Weganeracja waving the manner there’s no reason why it’ll stop there. Hits include towering beetroot burgers, chili sin carne and possibly the only zucchini bigos in the city. The desserts are of particular note, with recent highlights numbering a chocolate cream tart with avocado. ul.

Domaniewska 22A Youmiko Vegan Sushi Exceptional in every respect, Youmiko’s tasting menu is one of the undisputed highlights of what’s become known as the vegan square mile. “Our aim,” declares their manifesto, “is to mix traditional Japanese approaches with Polish creativity and surprise you with new textures and flavors.” Mission accomplished. (D5) ul. Hoża 62, youmiko.vg

vietnamese Oh My Pho A busy, family-run joint, OMP’s specific

claim to fame is what many are terming the best and most authentic pho in the ward. Steamy and aromatic, this is pho as it should be: full of big herby thwacks, ribboning noodles, and soft strips of meat in a clear, restorative stock. Often cited as being the ‘soul of the nation’, just a few noisy slurps are all that’s needed to corroborate the life-affirming goodness of this beautiful broth... (D5) ul. Wilcza 32, fb.com/ohmyphowilcza Ukim Though not as high profile as Warsaw’s other gastro streets, Chłodna’s emergence has been no less spectacular. But fine dining and fancy wine bars aside, it’s actually the more standard venues that make the area feel so vibrant. Take Ukim, a cheerful joint decorated with steel Tolix chairs and blooming palms. Covering vast tracts of Asia, the menu, for the most part, feels enjoyable and authentic in equal measure: start with duck and mango spring rolls before moving onto mains such as crispy, sticky chicken in tamarind sauce. (B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, ukim.pl Vietnamka BEST WAWA 2017 “Casual Dining” Divey but lively, diners step down into Vietnamka to find a shouty little lair of mint green walls and wobbly wooden tables. Infused with a gentle sense of chaos (drinks after mains, mains before starters), there’s a certain charm at work that feels authentic and convincing. As for the food, you suspect that’ll be ’nam good when TV chef Kurt Scheller wonders in for a take-out. And boy, yes it is. Squiggled onto a crumpled sheet of paper, menu items include giant bowls of warming pho, steamed goat with lemongrass and more-ish spring rolls. Exceptional in every respect, the cooking here sails Warsaw’s Asian scene into uncharted waters. (D5) ul.

Poznańska 7, fb.com/VietnamkaPoznanska Viet Street Food Bistro What started out as a roaming food truck has settled down into life as a legitimate restaurant. Widely looked upon as the source of some of the best Vietnamese chow this city’s ever seen, the small menu contains steaming bowls of pho and banh mi baguettes loaded with meat and greens: both are brill. (H4) ul. Królowej Aldony 5/2, fb.com/vietstreetfoodpl

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DRINK!

PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

RELAX… TAKE IT EASY

You may know Relax already: in fact, if you’re a coffee aficionado, then that’s probably a given. A cult meeting point amid the concrete and graffiti of Złota, it’s long been viewed as somewhere quite special. Likewise, it’s also been viewed as somewhere quite small. Prayer No. 1: “Couldn’t they grow just a little bit more?” Well finally, they have. Expanding to cover a new location up on Wilcza, the second branch of this Warsaw success story feels like an updated upgrade on the original downtown. Characterized by structured simplicity, it’s a venue that maximizes space and light. Never overly complex, clean lines of vision are interrupted only by a scattering of coffee tomes and a statement mural by Mariusz Tarkawian. Calm and intuitive, it’s an interior that feels both effective and efficient. And as for the coffee: one sip and you’re hooked. In this Insider’s case, that means silk smooth Nitro that’s helplessly addictive.

Relax Na Wilczej ul. Wilcza 17, fb.com/RelaxNaWilczej

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DRINK! Review

COURTING FAVOR

A new courtyard bar returns Pl. Trzech Krzyży to the frontline of cool…

BY ALEX WEBBER | PHOTOS BY ED WIGHT

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G

oing what, thirteen years back or so, and Pl. Trzech Krzyży was where Warsaw gathered.

Lined up like sitting ducks, you had Szpilka, Szpulka and Szparka, a trio of bars with a wild and varied clientele and super-flexi hours. Six o’clock on a Wednesday morning and you’d be guaranteed to find a slurry crew of night owls doggedly necking drinks whilst beleaguered staff mopped up the debris and sidestepped the bodies.

As for the toilets, you don’t want to know what went on in those. Simply put, it was here, on P3K as it became

known among foreigners, that Warsaw learned to party. You would never guess looking at it all today. Killed off one by one, where once you had three (in)famous watering holes, today you have luxury watch stores and generic coffee chains.

Finally, however, the buzz is back and that’s entirely the work of a place called Wozownia. Situated round the back of Trzech Krzyży (enter from Nowy Świat), this courtyard bar has become the new great hope of the nocturnal city. Open from early evening (hours will, apparently, be extended

Wozownia Pl. Trzech Krzyży 16, fb.com/WozowniaBar Open 4 p.m. till 2 a.m., closed Sunday. Note: open hours are to be extended in September.

come September), it’s a glorious, hidden enclave that feels fresh in its approach.

Founded by the same people that once ran the original ‘ruin’ bar at Hala Koszyki (back when it was a decrepit pile of wobbly, black stonework), the idea is simple: find a courtyard decked out with flowering plants and crates of herbs, an open-air grill specializing in vegetables, and a 200-year-old carriage house inside which lies the bar.

And my, what drinks it serves! While the beer front is (currently) limited to boring old Pilsner, cocktails are a different matter entirely, and incorpo

rate sprigs of lavender and rosemary to maximum effect. Then there’s the Prosecco, arguably the cheapest glass of bubbles that you’ll find in the city.

But that’s all window dressing; the most important factor is the atmosphere.

Open to all, it’s a place that attracts every walk of life: from old, local gossipbags to those at the peak of the social heap – whiskered fashion photographers with expensive little manbags, off-duty DJs and giggling models with plastic bits and boobs. Remarkably, everyone gets on, and it’s the randomness of the guests that makes it so special.

It’s a place that

attracts every walk of life: from old, local gossipbags to those at the peak of the social heap warsawinsider.pl

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DRINK! Listings bars & pubs 2Koła Sat, as it is, in the abandoned backspaces and brickyards behind Zachodnia station, 2Koła feels like Warsaw’s dirtiest little secret. Still stained and smelling of grease and oil, this former garage is piled high with dented sofas, warehouse palettes and motorcycling detritus. Yet the supremely friendly owners have turned this shadowy lair into a cult bar that’s specifically celebrated for rowdy jam sessions that cover everything from ragtime to rockabilly. ul. Tunelowa 2B The Alchemist A small place with a big bag of tricks: upscale pub grub from Brit chef Ed Shellard, fancy cocktails, and a self-serve wall of beer from a choice of global brewers.

Poland’s still getting used to the idea of ‘a pint after work’, but in The Alchemist the idea of a post-office drink just seems so right. (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 3, thealchemist.pl Bar Gemba Despite occupying the bottom corner of an office development Gemba isn’t short of character: that is, at least, if you measure character by the number of thrift store armchairs and vintage extras.

Furbished with lampshades, luggage and varying odds and ends, it’s the kind of dark, debauched bar that trended amongst artsy Poles in the early 00s. (D5) ul. Wilcza 50/52

Bar Pacyfik From Day 1 there was something that felt special about this place, and that feeling has only swelled with the progress of time. With a retro-kitsch interior delivered straight from the age of Scarface (candy floss pink, ocean blue), it’s a bar that’s dark and divey, raw and real. More than just a spot for the cool kids, there’s an inclusive atmosphere that feels positively international. As for drinks, the habanero / salsa infused Bloody Maria is a life-affirming gargle that sweeps through the body like an electric current – three sips and you feel like Superman. (C5) ul. Hoża 61 Bar Studio The ascetic, modern décor is intentional – both not to compete with the fine

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adornment of the original walls and to break through the building’s grandiose airs. It’s hard not to be overawed by the sheer gigantism of the Palace of Culture that looms above. It seamlessly slips from café during the day into its more culturally active persona in the evenings, with concerts, film screenings, plays and political discussions. (C4) Pl. Defilad 1, barstudio.pl

Bazar There’s Krusovice, Bernard and Staropramen on tap, and the Czech slant is lent added meat by a series of evenings held in cahoots with the Czech Cultural Centre – it’s during boozy disco nights the party spills into a shadowy cellar with light retro hints. On ground level its raw and industrial with asphalt colors and overhead pipes. You wouldn’t expect it, but the margaritas are smashing. (F1) ul. Jagiellońska 13

Beirut They’ve smashed a wall through though that’s still not enough to accommodate the crowd. Adorned with detritus inspired by the Lebanese conflict (ammox boxes, sandbags and… a bomb), by day find media types posturing by their Macs. At night, the air of cool dissolves into a wild, happy whirl of international voices. (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, beirut.com.pl

Bohemia You have to credit them for trying something different, but by going for a slick, corpo style Bohemia have completely missed ‘the essence of Czechia’. Filled with smooth wood and gleaming glass, it feels more boardroom than beer hall (actually, make that bored room). What goes right? The beer. Poured from a ‘tank’ system designed to maintain your beer’s freshness, it’s every bit as good as drinking straight from the tit of Pilsner’s own brew master. (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, bohemiarestaurant.pl

Central Bar The beer (supplied by Bierhalle) is fine, the cocktails are getting better, and the atmosphere is cranked to max: you get the buzzy sense that you’re in the middle of something that’s captured Warsaw’s imagination – the natural focal point of Hala Koszyki, the ever-stretching Central

Bar was one of the biggest hits of 2017.

(D6) ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki)

Ceska With its fake brickwork and shameless proliferation of Pilsner paraphernalia, the general feeling is that Ceska feels forced and phony – looking like it was fitted out to a rigid company blueprint, it’s more like the kind of theme pub you’d find off Leicester Square. Service, meanwhile, can be surly, forgetful and occasionally plain hostile. The ‘tank’ pouring system is a considerable plus: try the ‘mliko’, a full pint of creamy foam that can be sunk in a swig. (D4) ul. Chmielna 35, ceska.pl Chłodna 25 After several closures, noise clampdowns and a change in management you’d imagine C25 to be a mere shadow of what it once was. But after a slow start the new owners appear to have rescued this listing vessel and returned it to it best. On the ground floor it’s a place of creaking floorboards and retro armchairs, while the basement gets opened for experimental music nights and improvised orchestras. (B3) ul. Chłodna 25, klubchlodna25.pl

Elephant Belgian Pub Signposted by a jolly, dancing elephant, this Belgian pub presents its cause the moment you enter – there’s twenty or so taps laid right out in front, and to the left a fridge that’s expected to top out to cover 200 beers. The design is basic – brickwork, beer kegs and varying ephemera of the brewing trade – but it doesn’t need that much more: it’s about the beer, after all. (C1) ul. Freta 19 Grizzly Gin Bar More prone than ever to global trends, news that the international gin revival has hit Warsaw comes as no real bombshell.

The style in Grizzly is dark and hip with the design largely limited to moody lighting, some witty murals and a bank of outdated TV sets given an artistic twist; the smoking room is great for accidental meetings with curious characters while the occasional gigs really pack a punch – it’s fast becoming the latest and loudest night in the area. (D5) ul. Wilcza 46 Hard Rock Cafe Full throttle cocktails, lively staff and a

DRINK! Listings classic rock soundtrack: the energy of HRC is hard to find fault with. And on the rare occasion there is a lull in the night, use the opportunity to sniff around memorabilia that includes a black leather number once worn by Madonna. (C5) ul.

Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), hardrockcafe.pl

Kosmos – Inne Beczki Craft beer, pizza, late nights and DJs! In a nutshell, that’s Kosmos. Attracting the kind of crowd you’d anticipate (trend aware 20/30-somethings), it’s the kind of place where a dull time is rare. (D5) ul.

Poznanska 24

Kraken Rum Bar Named after one of the ocean’s most feared mythical creatures (the scary squid from Pirates of the Caribbean), the woodclad Kraken features a wall of cymbals, heavy furniture and some interesting photography. While there’s some decent bottles of rum, there’s perhaps not enough to justify calling it a rum bar. The place rocks though. (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, fb.com/KrakenRumBar

Legends Over the years Legends has earned a legendary status amongst the expats and Anglophiles. Their cause is helped by touches such as a proper darts board, Sky Sports and a traditional menu that’s as authentically English as the Downing Street cat. Presiding over it all is Graham, a seasoned expat and Everton nut. (C5) ul.

Emilii Plater 25, legendsbar.pl

Między Nami With 18 years of service under their belt you may think of Między Nami as being an antiquated has-been. Not so. Haunted by a mix of media types and local characters, this hip white piece of post-commie Warsaw has an enduring, almost timeless appeal. (D4) ul. Bracka 20, miedzynamicafe. com

Miejsce Chwila Surviving the move from their former digs is the giant mural of a weatherworn babcia, and it’s under her watery gaze that drinkers congregate to make the most of a decent fridge generously stocked with specialty beers from Poland’s more leftfield producers. Also successfully enduring the challenges of their cross-city move is the underly-

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ing spirit that made them so famous.

Defiantly arty in its character, the creative mood that prevails manifests itself in a quirky design that involves retro accents, refurbed armchairs, a neon of Lennon and the compelling illustrations of Izabela Wójtowicz. (D5) ul. Żurawia 47

the weekend with some of the most gloriously gorgeous people in the city, then a trip to Sheesha ticks all the boxes.

Presenting itself in a whirl of action, the exotic, clubby atmosphere hits fever pitch come the midnight hour. Earlier, soak up the atmosphere with a scented hookah while lounging under eastern lights. (D5)

Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’ Approximately twenty bars occupy a series of low-budget prefabricated cabins, presenting possibly the highest density of bars in the capital: in summer, it feels like one big street party. Adding to the gentle sense of confusion comes the realization that so many bars look the same – accessed through clattery, barred doors, visitors walk into what can only be described as murk. Klaps, with its dildo beer taps and phallic walls, is probably the most well-known of the lot. (D4) Enter

Al. Jerozolimskie 33, sheesha.pl

from ul. Nowy Świat 26

Państwo Miasto Is there anything better than sitting in a bar/café, book in hand, while summery sunshine pours through the windows? We go to Państwo to do just that, an echoey, cavernous spot with a young, lively crowd that’s keen on scholastic events and political causes (B1) ul. Andersa 29, panstwomiasto.pl (closed at press time)

Smak Brasserie Open Friday through to Sunday, the upstairs gallery inside Hala Gwardii has views of the market hall action below and a design that’s based around moody lighting, open spaces and rescued furnishings. A fine place in which to soak in the atmosphere of this echoey, pre-war hall. (C3) Zelaznej Bramy 1 (Hala Gwardii) Stixx It takes a moment to allow the sheer magnitude of Stixx sink in. Having adjusted to the wow factor of the interior – which can best be described as cosmopolitan-industrial – most retreat to the long, all weather deck which in itself is quite something: the aesthetics are such that a cocktail party on an oligarch’s yacht comes to mind. There aren’t many better places for a drink when the roof is rolled back and the stars twinkle above.

(A4) Pl. Europejski 4A, tel. 22 340 4040, stixx.pl

Plan B Plan B is the very essence of dive Warsaw.

Weekends pass by in a raucous blur, with the party spilling out under the colonnades outside – it helps to look like a DJ, but in truth everyone is welcome.

The hangover from this shabby, grubby bar is traumatic. (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), planb.pl

Przystań Nowa Fala If nothing else, 2018 will be remembered as the year the Wisła finally kicked-on to go more upmarket. Playing more than a bit part in all that is Przystań, a gorgeous, moored vessel with ample seating both inside and out. On the first level, order from a bar well-stocked with craft beers, world wines and funky cocktails, before heading to the open upstairs deck to join a fun, cosmopolitan crowd stretched out under the stars. (E2) Bulwar Gen. George’a

Świetlica Long and narrow, dark and murky, it’s as raw as they come: toilets of grubby menace, a smoking room clad in spray art, broken fittings and general gloom.

Basically, it’s everything you demand from the last bar of the night – a place where you can slide into the shadows and watch the world spin around. (E7) ul.

Marszałkowska 17

Smitha Pattona

Ul Cool and current, the globalized menu has distinct Asian accents and is enjoyed in a rough-chic interior of painted brickwork and dangling lights. Come night it feels dark and divey, the kind of place you head to party. And party you will – closing at two during the week and four (and beyond) at the weekend, the vibe is hard and energetic and befitting of Poznańska. (D5) ul. Poznańska 16

Sheesha Lounge Providing you don’t mind sharing

Ulubiona Set inside the archway, look for a heavy

DRINK! Listings door next to a dented ashtray seemingly unemptied for the last couple of months.

Shadowy and shabby, you’ll usually find barflies strumming guitars or engrossed in a solo game of chess. An intensely personal experience, it’s a bar that compensates for its lack of glitz with a stoner-style ambiance that soon sweeps over all. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 27 W Oparach Absurdu Hidden under Persian rugs, velvety drapes and reclaimed antiques, some still refer to it as The Spider Bar in reference to the giant tarantula that once hung from the wall. There’s an air of louche 60s living here, and it gets weirder when bands with names like the Bum Bum Orchestra enter to play trumpets amongst vodka-tipping guests. (F1) ul.

Ząbkowska 6, oparyabsurdu.pl

Warszawa Powiśle The prime months for this former ticket booth arrive each summer when the deckchairs outside provide ample opportunity for the city’s young and fashionable to gather in an almost carnival-like atmosphere. Once seen as the hipster Center of Power, it still maintains great popularity with whiskered, tattooed sorts. (E4) ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B, warszawapowisle.pl

Worek Kości A celebration of both the burlesque and bizarre, Worek Kości is the bar Edgar Allan Poe would create were he raised from the dead. A lively evening hangout with ad-libbed cocktails and an unconventional program of events, you’re as likely to visit during an open-mic night as you are a discussion on Silesian serial killers. This fascination with the morbid and macabre manifests itself by way of a quirky design featuring hundreds of skulls and book shelves lined with the complete works of Stephen King. (E7) ul.

cafés Bułkę przez Bibułkę There’s a feminine style to this cafe, what with its cute, girly pastels, petite plant pots and woodsy finishes. But no matter what your gender or age, there’s something immediately sunny and positive about this place. Slow food sandwiches arrive on wooden boards, there’s pretty homemade desserts and a careful choice of wine: falling in love with it is easy. ul. Puławska 24 & ul. Zgoda 3, bulkeprzezbibulke.pl

Być Może It’s all about artisan bread and breakfast in the industrial looking Być Może. It’s taken the concept of Charlotte (groan, there’s even a communal table), and improved it with excellent breads and a crowd that’s a little less pleased with itself. (E7) ul. Bagatela 14, bycmoze.com.pl Charlotte Menora If the air is smug and self-satisfied, there’s a good reason for that: Charlotte have come to embody modern urban Poland: energetic, ambitious and ferociously trend conscious. And to think, some look at it as a mere bakery. Occupying a long space, the latest outpost of this café chain doesn’t overlook the area’s Jewish heritage, with the menu featuring several Jewish delicacies: the bagels are ok. (C4) Pl. Grzybowski 2, bistrocharlotte.pl Coffeedesk Looking flawless in her pearl white colors, Coffeedesk is a place that does it right.

Brewed by expert coffeeologists, the humble cup of Joe becomes an object of adoration. Populated round-the-clock by headphoned freelancers and digital nomads tapping into their Macs, it’s a light, bright spot with a dynamic style and a keen sense of sexy. (D5 ul. Wilcza 42,

Bagatela 10

fb.com/coffeedeskwilcza

Żyrafa Sucked inside it’s green/blue glow, visitors all but collide against the bar with a swing of the door. It’s just 15 sq/m, but that doesn’t stop drinkers rolling in. “There’s some nights we’ve had 30 people in here,” says the barman, a thought that both terrifies and exhilarates in equal measure. (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 22

Cophi So small you get the idea you could fit Cophi into the palm of your hand, yet no other place in Warsaw is more devoted to sourcing the best coffees in the world. (D5)

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ul. Hoża 58/60

Czuły Barbarzyńca na Piwnej A Parisian-style bookstore full of steps

and wobbles, nooks and alcoves. All agree there’s something special here: maybe it’s the book selection – varied, esoteric and at once compelling. Or maybe it’s the atmosphere, such that browsers anchor themselves on the sofas to lose an afternoon with their nose in a novel while sipping drip coffee. (E3) ul. Piwna 20/26, czuly.pl

Dobro & Dobro Cafe Measuring just six square meters (record attendance: 12 customers!), the tiniest cafe in Poland has grown into a cult stopoff for people looking to do something wacky. If you’re into karma, then buy a suspended coffee – order a coffee in advance for a stranger, write a personal message and then hang the cup from a string. (E8) ul. Puławska 11, fb.com/dobrocafe EmEsEn Heaving with heavyweight art titles and photo albums, the crowd that gathers in this café/bookstore is suitably leftfield and creative. On the work front, strong wifi and plenty of plugs make this one of the better venues in which to put your nose to the grindstone. Aiding your endeavors is a serious choice of coffee sourced from roasters such as The Barn from Berlin and Melbourne’s Atomica. (C4) ul. Pańska 3, fb.com/emesen.kawki

FatWhite_CoffeeBar Attached to a super cool barber shop (tatts, beards, crazy whiskers) Fat White have a beauty of an interior: swan white with walls graced by bookshelves and contemporary art that references Muranów’s past. Coffee comes from Kofi Brand, while sandwiches are made by personal chef / co-owner Filip (that’s his Scooby Doo van outside!). (C1) ul. Andersa 6 Forum Having ditched their old, pokey address off Pl. Zbawiciela for (slightly) larger surrounds on Elektoralna, the curious location of the new operation has done little to dent their popularity: at all hours, find tables inside this fashionably sparse / frayed set of rooms occupied by cool-looking designer types gabbling into out-sized headphones. Changing weekly, the big pull is a choice of specialty coffees fixed by Poland’s AeroPress and Brewers Cup champion. The quality is, quite simply, brew-tiful. (C3) ul. Elektoralna 11, forum.coffee

DRINK! Listings Lapidarium It’s high time that the Old Town Square had a café worth visiting, but would have thought that it would be a museum providing such? Run under the aegis of the Museum of Warsaw, visitors choose from rustic meals prepped locally by Gospoda Kwiaty Polskie, regional beers, Polish wine from Mierzęcin Palace and tea courtesy of Harney & Sons. Enjoy these in minimalistic vaulted interiors or in a soothingly calm courtyard garden stacked with gargoyles and other historic elements. (D1) Rynek Starego Miasto 40,

Ministerstwo Kawy Sourcing their coffee from Koppi, an internationally acclaimed Swedish roasting house, the ministry takes no short cuts in their pursuit of excellence.

Utilizing Ethiopian, Costa Rican and Brazilian arabicas – some exclusive to Poland – barista Wojciech Rzytki has earned a reputation across Poland for his expert hand. Rave reviews are standard and appropriate. (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 27,

lapidariumcafe.com

ministerstwokawy.pl

Kafka Café A chessboard floor and a collection of antlers on the wall characterize Kafka, a bookstore / café whose literary collection is composed of paperbacks rescued from recycling plants. Books are purchased by their weight (zł. 10 per kilo) while the menu includes pancakes, pastas and even doggy treats for your mutt. (E3) ul. Oboźna

Niezłe Ziółko Café & Deli A shrine to pure and healthy eating, this friendly café doesn’t just brew a great coffee, but bakes its own bread and produces its own yogurt. Sit in the loft to look down on shoppers scurrying to Mokotowska, and on the way out, check out ‘Grandma’s Cupboard’ in the corner: jams, spreads and olive oils are there to buy for home. (D5) ul. Krucza 17

3, kawiarnia-kafka.pl

KluboKawiarnia Towarzyska With an interior modeled by John Strumiłło, this 50s pavilion has an ascetic design defined by polar white interiors.

Contrast is provided downstairs, with deep magenta walls and retro armchairs.

Concerts, screenings and art happenings have made it into something of local cultural mainstay. ul. Zwycięzców 49,

Odette Tearoom Taking its lead from their original dessert stop on ul. Górskiego, the sister venue peddles glorious cakes and pralines as well as a hand-picked selection of boutique teas served in a fragrant and elegant atmosphere. (C4) ul. Twarda 4,

klubokawiarnia.net

Relaks Expertly prepared, right down to the foam art, the baristas here use the finest imported machines and work only with fair trade, ‘specialty’ coffee. If you have time, the drip coffees are more than worth the wait. The crowded interiors supply a retro accent, and are enjoyed by a fashion aware, laptop-touting crowd.

Labour Cafe Labour Café’s door crashes open onto a busy space that sets bare raw materials of steel, wood, concrete and brick against lashings of plant life and bursts of poster art. But if the front part is all about catching up with friends and soaking up the vibe over bagels and ‘ethical’ coffee, then outback is where the serious stuff happens – discover a studiously quiet dual-level working space featuring a printer, flipcharts and plentiful light. (E4) ul. Tamka 49, labour.pl

Matcha Tea House Renting the space once occupied by the legendary Bastylia, Matcha certainly have a big pair of boots to fill – but fill them they might. Beyond a comprehensive choice of matcha, find also an array desserts that use this green Japanese tea

as their cornerstone ingredient. (D6) ul.

Mokotowska 17

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odette.pl

(E9) ul. Puławska 48

Resort Originally known for their OTT recycling motif (shopping trolleys re-purposed as seats, street signs as tables...), Resort have pared the design down replacing the old junk with a cool, caramel-colored look high on wood, plants and discreet retro accents. Craft beer, eco-friendly bites, clever cocktails and quality coffee contribute to their popularity, as does a busy events program that’s big on comedy and open mic nights. (C2) ul. Bielańska 1

Same Fusy Suffused in a candle-lit glow, this 15th century cellar unwinds to reveal a charming brick room suspended in time.

Filled with gnarled wooden oddities and tree stump tables, the sweet aroma of fragrant teas helps amplify the fairy tale mood. ul. Nowomiejska 10 Stor Buying their coffee from revered roasters such as Berlin’s Bonanza and Stockholm’s Drop Coffee, Stor have grown to become a giant presence on Warsaw’s café map. Visitors bask in natural light amid outbreaks of greenery and quirky design touches: time runs away here and before you know it hours have passed. ul.

Tamka 33, fb.com/storcafe

Wrzenie Świata Those with journalistic leanings love Wrzenie Świata. It’s definitely more Macbook than Moleskine, but this bookstore/café attracts plenty of readers (and writers) to its book-lined interior.

Buzzing like a cafe should, it packs out for slideshows and seminars. (E4) ul.

Gałczyńskiego 7

clubs Luztro Don’t sit down, you won’t know what you might catch. Dark and generally filthy, Warsaw’s most (in)famous club only gets going around about three. As the hours click towards daybreak, the scenes of depravity are like something from Sodom and Gomorrah. Enjoyed by zombies that quite definitely don’t have to be up for work anytime in the next 48 hrs, it’s not just the full-on techno that will leave the brain rattling – you’ll know if it’s your scene. (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, luztro.pl N58 The latest entry on Warsaw’s club circuit have issued a manifesto promising deep vocal house, r’n’b, mash-ups and theme nights centered around Afro Beats / trap / twerk and hip hop. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58 No Comment A secret world for those In The Know, find No Comment in a seedy-looking tower under Poniatowski Bridge. Clad in

DRINK! Listings decadent, blue velvety surfaces, this tiny bi-level club feels redolent of an afterhours Parisian members club: everyone seems to know each other, and after a bottle of bubbles you will as well. (F4) Al. 3 Maja 16/18A, Most Poniatowskiego

Ritual Looking dark and sensual, this two-level space unwraps before you like some elaborate adventure. Candles flicker, atmosphere crackles – moving towards the bar, slinky, sultry club creatures of unfathomable beauty prowl past with drinks poised in hand. Heating up gradually as the night progresses, Ritual moves organically from being a voluptuous bar to a spicy club as the night ebbs towards its heady conclusion. (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, ritualwarsaw.com

Room 13 Connected by a series of inter-linking archways, rooms inside this dressy club throb at the weekends with a super sexy crowd letting loose under the vaulted ceilings. Now in their fifth year, it’s become a stalwart of the Mazowiecka scene. (D3) ul.

Mazowiecka 13, room13.pl

Sen Entering this top-floor joint, visitors are hit by a tidal wave of gorgeousness: wallto-wall with George Clooney lookalikes, off-duty celebrities and catwalk glamor pusses, the carefree hedonism is like something from a film – only tonight, you’re one of the stars. Sod the bank account, you think, bring me champagne: enjoy just that on a terrace deck slung with Edison bulbs, or indoors in an area festooned with deluxe sofas and floor-toceiling windows that stare out onto the National Stadium opposite. The good life doesn’t get any better. (F4) ul. Wioślarska 6

attention on everything from jazz and soul to Britpop and electro. Spread across a series of chambers decorated with vintage fittings, parquet floors and wood-paneled walls, Spatif’s main success lies in replicating that fun, spontaneous feel of a house party that’s spiraled out of control: no matter their individual back story, everyone gets on (and occasionally gets off). Just about the most unpretentious club night you’ll find, this labyrinthine pre-war tenement feels fun, diverse and never up its own arse.

The View Occupying the upper levels of a skyscraper, The View is a place of bubbles and beauties and all things glam. A world class venue, past crowd pullers include Bob Sinclair and David Morales. In summer, the glam and the gorgeous won’t be seen anywhere but the open air rooftop deck: it’s pure NYC. (C4) ul. Twarda 18

cocktails 6 Cocktails If 6 Cocktails has the feeling of hanging around someone’s flat that’s because, actually, you are. This posh Mokotowska apartment has been re-adapted as an exclusive bar frequented by leggy models and society figures: the parties are nuts!

Unmarked from street level, to enjoy the inventive cocktails message them on FB and await your invite. (E5) ul. Mokotowska 57

Podwale Bar & Books Though it doesn’t have to be winter to enjoy T Podwale Bar & Books, it definitely helps.

R C P T M Seen through frosted, foggy windows it’s a C W venue that reveals itself as a place of dark, ≈ W C delicious ≈ colors and rarefied air. Occupying theC kind≈ofC charismatic gatehouse you’d T read about in Dickens, position yourself ≈ P E the upstairs fireplace for a in front of ≈ L S celebratory cigar and a glass of something tall the cocktails are in a class P and B lovely: B of their own and specifically customized for the season. (D2) ul. Wąski Dunaj 20, HE MOST

EFRESHINGLY LACES

Smolna 38 Hated by the selfie mob (guests have to cover their phones with a sticker), rated by everyone else, Smolna’s nights have grown to become legend. Pete Tong, Simian Mobile Disco and Hercules & Love Affair have all played in the past, which says much for the management’s ambition. (E4) ul. Smolna 38, smolna38.com

IVILIZED

EETTM

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IGARS &

INE &

HISKY

HAMPAGNE

OCKTAILS &

USINE

ASTINGS

RIVATE

OCATION

ODWALE

VENTS

HOOTS

AR AND

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Wąski Dunaj 20, 00-256 Warsaw Tel.: +48 225.599.199

barandbooks.pl

Spatif The varied music policy shines a light on a revolving schedule of sounds, pinning its

Bardziej It’s thanks to places like Bardziej that warsawinsider.pl

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DRINK! Listings Oleandrów is becoming one of the most talked about streets around. This splitlevel bar does a good job of capturing the essence of the area, with inventive ‘author’s cocktails’ matched against a warm, dimly lit interior that’s heaving with cogs, metal hooks and enigmatic dials. The later it gets, the better it is.

(E5) ul. Marszałkowska 21/25 (enter from Oleandrów)

Biała Saska’s premier cocktail spot reaches its zenith each summer thanks to a leafy

back garden that stands shaded by this modernist building: it’s worth visiting just to swan down the spiral stairs with a glass of something bubbly. ul. Francuska 2, fb.com/bialazjedziwypij

Charlie Crowd: glam & vampy. The venue: equally so. Occupying the first floor of a pre-war tenement, there’s a magic here that summons the age of F. Scott Fitzgerald – Gatsby would love it. The ace in the pack is a ‘subconscious menu’ from which clients order mystery cocktails based on their scent. (E6) ul.

Mokotowska 39

Column Bar Just the look of Column Bar sweeps you off your feet; there’s something breathlessly classy about it, like you’ve just entered Gatsby’s ballroom. You want to order a pyramid of champagne and dance on their piano. Behave, and order a cocktail instead. For a taste of the classics, the Column Bar is pretty peerless. (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44 (Hotel Bristol)

TRY OUR BUBBLE-waffles WITH HOME MADE ARTISAN GELATO. Nowogrodzka 15 Al. Jana Pawła II 43/25 Francuska 48 Hala Koszyki tel. 509 912 282 www.melody.pl

Cosmo Bar Though they’ve made a big noise about embracing a variety of initiatives aimed at maximizing sustainability, Tomek Roehr’s Cosmo Bar project, is more than a one-trick pony. Beyond the novelty factor is a scrupulous attention to detail that manifests itself in impeccable cocktails based around Polish produce – rowanberry, sea buckthorn and suchlike.

Occupying a plush, little corner of the Cosmopolitan Tower, this is luxury with a conscience. ul. Twarda 4, cosmobar.pl Kita Koguta The staff aren’t afraid to get imaginative, and that includes serving cocktails in smoking coconut husks. Not all the experiments go as planned: on our last visit, a basic Bloody Mary was turned into an alcoholic carrot flavored fizz. (E5) ul. Krucza 6/14

Kiti Bar A raucous bar drawn up by the owners of the nearby Kita Koguta. Dominated by a tall Polynesian totem, this ray of sunshine gets noted for extravagant cocktails served by game staff in zany shirts. (D5) ul. Krucza 6/14

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Na Lato Once derided as a hipster haunt, the twits have moved on, replaced instead by an increasingly on-trend crowd of rich young things. The cocktails are without doubt up there with the best in Wa-wa and the basement club area has the added boon of a glassed-in smoking room. (F5) ul.

Rozbrat 44, na-lato.com

Panorama Sky Bar The Marriott’s 40th floor Panorama has had a couple of incarnations: first, as a glitzy Dynasty throwback, and then, more recently, as something that could have passed for a business class airport lounge. Now it’s been reinvented once again, only this time successfully: find slick, vibrant interiors redolent of London matched up with modern cocktails and twinkling views. (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, panoramabar.pl

The Roots Having recruited some of the top bartenders in Poland, The Roots have a serious artillery on which to rely. So committed is this haunt, its walls are graced by a vast collection of cocktail memorabilia: antique jiggers, shakers, coolers, not to mention an original signed copy of the world’s first cocktail handbook (published: 1862!). (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 11

Weles Named after the Slavic god of the underworld, everything about Weles evokes the spirit of indulgence: a zinc 1920s ceiling imported from the States, a crystal chandelier and a wooden bar carved from a British carousel. A work of refined craftsmanship, the cocktails stand out as the most sophisticated in the city.

(D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 11, welesbar.pl

Woda Ognista Woda Ognista evokes the jazzy air of a Chicago, Prohibition era speakeasy with a seriously stylish interior that includes a colossal collection of vintage cocktail shakers that glint behind glass. The drinks themselves, rattled up by dapper gents in braces and flat caps, are split between house creations and reprised classics from a bygone era. Some are more successful than others, and it’s a credit to the staff that they’re willing to take comments on board and adapt their precious recipes to suit fussy tastes. (E5)

DRINK! Listings ul. Wilcza 8, wodaognista.com

with warm tones and 16 taps of beery goodness. ul. Andersa 23, fb.com/craftbeer-

Zorza Slotted inside what was once Café 6/12, Zorza embellishes the venue’s ascetic PRL style with licks of art deco: it’s an unlikely marriage that manages to work.

Do your pecking, picking, sipping and supping on an outdoor terrace set-up that encourages mingling and interaction. (D4)

muranow

ul. Żurawia 6/12, zorzabistro.pl

craft beer Artezan Pub The country has crazier breweries for sure, but does it have anyone more consistent than the lads at Artezan. Famed for their Pacific – the quintessential domestic IPA – Artezan’s flagship bar is a standard bearer not just for quality, but for Poland as a whole. (D4) ul. Moniuszki 1A Bistro Warszawski Kapsel Occupying a (very) small corner unit on Tamka, there are some who might better remember this address as the short-lived home of Heritage Birreria Artigianale – an Italian inspired craft beer bar. The beer taps have survived, only now you’ll find them tweaking out artisan brews closer to home. Of the other noteworthy changes, the addition of a TV screen resolutely tuned to any live football has been seen as another major plus. ul.

Tamka 9

Chmielarnia A subterranean multi-tap found in the depths of the fishing institute. Artisan beers rule the roost here (there’s 15 taps and stacks more beer in the fridge), a point underlined by a glass coffin of mainstream macro lager. While the bar gets loud and rackety, sweaty and sticky, that’s balanced out by a rotating beer offer that’s moderately priced plus a friendly, earnest audience that’s all beer geeks and know-it-alls. (B5) ul. Twarda 42 (basement level), chmielarnia.waw.pl

Craft Beer Muranów Though still an area thick with beretwearing, dachshund-walking oldies, Muranów is fast catching up with the rest of Warsaw. Taking care of the craft beer angle is this newbie, a bi-level bar

Cuda Na Kiju Where it all began. Summer catches Warsaw’s original tap bar at its best, with the courtyard of the former Communist Party HQ now home to an entirely different kind of party: on occasions find food trucks and film screenings, and all other times just a massive crowd getting sloshed on 15 types of tap beer. But even outside the sweaty months Cuda is worth the visit: drink inside a modern, glass cube that’s refreshing contemporary. (E4)

Eufemia Even in a country that prides itself on deceptive addresses, Eufemia outdoes them all by suggesting gig-goers head to Krakowskie Przedmieście. Actually, you need ul. Traugutta, and from there to search out the salmon pink palace that’s entered via Niżyńskiego. Obvious, huh? Slipped down some narrow steps, Eufemia unwraps into a series of side rooms furbished in simple style with occasional flourishes provided by the local art school. Drinks come from 12 taps squirting out Polish craft beer, while

ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, cudanakiju.pl

Cześć It started as a café, but now Cześć is better known as being at the forefront of the new generation of ‘quali-tap’ bars – small little places with six or so beers on tap. The two owners, Piotrek and Kuba, take their beer seriously, so do expect plenty of new finds as well as traditional favorites from stalwarts like the Artezan and Pinta breweries. The laidback, neighborhood atmosphere is making it increasingly popular with a tight-knit circle of ex-pat drinkers. (C3) ul. Grzybowska 2 (through the side passage), czesc.waw.pl

Czeska Baszta Contained within a grotty bridge support, divey Czeska is permanently immersed in a foggy, yellow glow. Boisterous but extremely friendly, there’s a reason for all the man hugs and back slaps: everyone’s smashed! The frothy pints of lager are sourced from the owner’s favorite small town breweries, and the fridge kept stocked courtesy of his own cross-border forays. (E4) Tower 22A, Most Poniatowskiego, czeskabaszta.pl

Drugie Dno To plug into the pounding heart of Warsaw’s craft beer scene, look no further than Nowogrodzka. Joining the ranks of the street’s multi-tap bars is Drugie Dno, a three-level space that’s been themed to evoke the look of a disused power station.

Sporting rugged brickwork and a scuffed style, the industrialized look has been amped up to the max through the use of steel girders, vintage voltage meters and toilets disguised as elevator shafts. (D5) ul.

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DRINK! Listings food is a welcome affair involving pulled pork burgers, pastrami and even vegan curry. (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 5 Goraczka Zlota Get down with the locals at Gorączka Złota, a steamy pub with a rowdy atmosphere. Touting the dimensions of a cabin boy’s quarters, this pungent, pokey den is one of the oldest bars in town.

Despite carrying many epic beers from Poland’s rebel brewers, there’s nothing faddish about GZ and it’s this sense of normalcy that lends it its enduring appeal.

(D5) ul. Wilcza 29, goraczka-zlota.com.pl

Jabeerwocky Steeped in multinational drunken babble, the super sociable Jabbers is famed for its innovative beer selection and convivial atmosphere. Mark it down as an absolute must-visit, especially if you’re a fan of stout and cider. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 12, taproom.pl

series of cavernous chambers inside an attractive Old Town property, its not just beer buffs that it appeals to: sourcing their ingredients from small-scale farmsteads, the kitchen wing of Maryensztadt does a convincing job of representing the tastier side of regional Poland. (D1) ul.

Szeroki Dunaj 11

Mikkeller Bar Warsaw Light and bright the sparsity of the interior is a surprise: a classic case of less is more, here the punchline is given to the beer. That means twenty taps firing out a revolving roster of kickass beers that, thus far, have included lambic-style ‘SpontanPear’ and yuzu flavored Berliner weisse. It’s an utter geek-gasm for beer nerds. Prices for the Danish stuff start in the early 20s and soar upwards from there – in return, you’re getting brilliant beer that breaks brewing boundaries.

For cheapskates, Polish options kick-off at approx. 13 PLN. (D4) ul. Chmielna 7/9, fb.com/MikkellerBarWarsaw

Kufle i Kapsle Interiors are balanced with the pre-war heritage of the place, and are thick with noise, clamor and the smell of spillage.

Found somewhere towards the top of the national hierarchy of craft beer bars, Kufle welcomes all, from entry level novices to note-taking beer nerds. The male to female ratio is somewhere near equal, which in itself feels pretty unique. (D5) ul.

Piw Paw We don’t like: the sweaty toilet, strange smells nor the scrum at the bar. We do like: the 24hr opening hours, humongous fridge and 50+ taps. Seen in the light it’s a little depressing, so visit at night when Parkingowa takes on the look of an endof-term street party. (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34 (enter from ul. Parkingowa), piwpaw.pl

loft-style décor feels rather contrived and a little too polished. ul. Sienkiewicza 4 Warzą się Losy “Nowhere in Warsaw,” boasts the barman, “has more beer taps per square meter.”

Despite its diminutive footprint, WsL punches above its weight with eight taps turning out new generation Polish beer.

Decked out like an anechoic chamber, the combination of good beer and mouse hole dimensions mean that it doesn’t take long for conversations to crossover with the scattering of strangers at the bar. Soon enough everyone’s drinking together and toasting the night. (D7) ul. Oleandrów 3

for gentlemen Playhouse Housed in a former subterranean bomb shelter, the talk now is of bombshells: namely the 57 stunners they’ve got listed on their books. Inspired by high class joints in London and Vegas, it’s a refined choice with a no-pressure atmosphere and door staff that don’t look like they’re going to kick your head in. (B3) Al. Solidarności 82A, playhouse.pl

live music

Nowogrodzka 25, kufleikapsle.pl

Kufle i Kapsle Żoliborz While Nowogrodzka is the beating heart of the tap bar trend, not even the suburbs are safe from this flourishing movement. By expanding out to Żoliborz, Kufle i Kapsle have cornered a captive market. There’s just seven taps here, but they’re a magnificent seven – find a great representation of Polish craft draught, not to mention a satisfying selection of international bottles. The moderate size works it in its favor, lending it a neighborly atmosphere which sees first-timers quickly converted into returning regulars. ul. Popiełuszki 19/21, kufleikapsle.pl

Maryensztadt Craft Beer It’s a mixed crowd of locals and tourists that gather in Maryensztadt, a large bar whose 12 taps showcase the highs (and occasional lows) produced by the brewery that gives this pub its name. Set across a

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Same Krafty Vis-à-vis You wouldn’t have thought it a year back, but reasons keep emerging to drink in the Old Town. When it comes to pubs, Same Krafty top the list, but try getting served at peak drinking time. So here’s some brilliant news: they’ve now opened another bar opposite. Pass under a dragon’s head before stepping into a supremely friendly room with ten taps, a strong bottle line-up and an atmospheric side chamber. (D1) ul. Nowomiejska 11/13, samekrafty.pl

Hydrozagadka Set out in the wildlands of Praga, consider Hydrozagadka as the heart of unforced cool. Known for its alternative music scene, the low-ceiling and tight, crowded nature of it generate an electrifying atmosphere where the audience and band become one. Walking a fine line between industrial and straight out decrepit, the atmosphere is second to none: drinks flow, strangers meet and music smashes out: you can feel something special happening here. ul. 11 Listopada 22

The Taps No longer a niche movement, the opening of The Taps is another sign of craft beers mainstream market penetration. Set on the once super trendy Sienkiewicza, hopes are high that the opening of this three-floor drinking den could yet revive the fortunes of this street. Appealing to a young, pre-club crowd, the industrial /

Klub Pogłos Arguably Warsaw’s No. 1 venue for alternative music, Pogłos checks all the requisite boxes: a divey, gritty look, a liberal atmosphere and an army of fans willing and eager to embrace the seamier side of night. The packed program of events runs from spoken word performances and vegan BBQs, to

DRINK! Listings sweaty tribute concerts celebrating The Smiths. At other times, you’ll be listening to touring Berlin-based bands, hardcore DJs or psychedelic soul from the likes of King Khan And The Shrines. If it’s weird, it’s on. ul. Burakowska 12, fb.com/klubpoglos Pardon To Tu Strung with overhead lightbulbs, the revived version of this legendary bar has that same indomitable spirit associated with the first: dogs romp about while Warsaw’s intelligentsia discuss the issues of the day. As dusk turns to night, a gentle drunken fog settles in the air, and the atmosphere crackles as the drinks mount up. But Pardon’s temporary summer home is exactly just that: an open-air area with bits of corrugated roofing. Not that anyone minds, and that’s especially true come the onset of gig night. With concerts held in an adjoining warehouse, it’s in here that the true soul of Pardon reveals itself. (D9) ul.

Madalińskiego 10/16, pardontotu.pl

vodka Dom Wódki Those expecting Dom Wódki to be a standard mucky shot bar are in for a surprise.

Sparkling with over 250 artisanal vodkas, find them incorporated into inspirational drinks mixed by Tomasz Małek, a world champion flair bartender. More than just show, the tastes are incredible. (C2) ul.

Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl

WuWu Open round-the-clock, this 24-hour bar is the place in which to enjoy a prodigious choice of vodka inside a chic, dimly-lit environment that resounds to the singalong hits of communist Poland.

Serving classic drinking bites (sour cream and herring, beef tartar, etc.) and an array of expertly fixed cocktails, it’s a spot that promises to become the place to be for a higher class of night owl. If

this is gentrification, we’re all for it. (G1) Pl. Konesera 1

wine bars Ale Wino!

Without doubt, peak time is the summer when drinkers congregate on a courtyard deck shielded by a sail. But winter ain’t so bad either with this covert wine bar unraveling to reveal a series of little chambers. The wine choice is comprehensive and it’s ably supported by some of the best cooking in the city: chef Sebastian Wełpa is one of Warsaw’s great, golden talents.(E5) ul. Mokotowska 48, alewino.pl

Bubbles Such is the style of Bubbles it feels like Valentine’s all year round: high on intimacy, it’s a charming ensemble of rickety crates and deep, dark colors. But the

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DRINK! Listings clincher, that’s the prodigious selection of champagne. Now while you’d usually expect a champagne bar to be filled with footballers wives and berks with fake tans, Bubbles feels inclusive, convivial and anything but vain. (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9

from the sensational cooking of Rafał Hreczaniuk, join the good lookers for an exceptional wine list that includes a hefty offer from Poland (inc. wines from the proprietor’s own label, Dom Bliskowice).

Dekant Wine Bar Set inside an attractive open space, the opening of Dekant is a further indication of Powiśle’s shift from hipster epicenter to upscale playground (Robert Lewandowski has been spotted here!). The list comprises over 400 wines from the most prestigious producers in the world, right the way down to tiny, little vineyards you’ve probably never heard of. If the sun is out, aim for a place on their back terrace. (E3) ul. Zajęcza 15, dekant.com.pl

Hoża You’ll probably know Hoża as the home of steak. But what is meat without wine? complementing the Argentine-inspired cooking is an expansive wine list particularly dense with reds. (D5) ul. Hoża

Dyletanci Filled with immaculate, modern citizens that drive beamers and jeeps, everyone here looks pretty pleased with themselves – and after a drink, so will you. Aside

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(F5) ul. Rozbrat 44, dyletanci.pl

25a, hoza.warszawa.pl

Nowina The striking interior that catches the eye from across the street – restored pre-war tiling, glinting surfaces, a world map rendered from corks and an engaging reddish glow all do their bit to lend Nowina the kind of atmosphere that’s missing in most local wine bars. Add to that an exciting international menu and a selection of over 400 wines and you have an absolute

winner. ul. Nowogrodzka 4, nowina.waw.pl Mielżyński Wine Bar Robert Mielżyński, a Canadian-born oenologist, awakened Warsaw’s love affair with the grape when he launched Mielżyński in 2004, and it continues to serve as the accepted benchmark to which all wine bars aspire. Their cause is amply boosted by a fine selection of bites to accompany the superlative wine offer. .

(A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, mielzynski.pl

Rusiko Wine Bar Warsaw’s biggest selection of Georgian wine inside an interior that feels intimate, jazzy and highly atmospheric. Elaborate rugs, deep rouge in color, hang from tall sapphire walls, while impossibly high ceilings do much to generate a swirl of soft, muffled sound. A place of good mood and organic hospitality, it’s no surprise to learn that the bitey menu is an ample reflection of Rusiko’s award-winning reputation. (E5) Al. Ujazdowskie 22

DO!

BIOGRAPHY: A GAME

What would you do if you had the chance to re-live your life? That’s the opportunity given to Kürmann, a behavioral scientist with the uncanny ability to alter his past decisions. Soon, however, he realizes the double edged nature of this enviable gift. Written by German playwright Max Frisch in 1967, Biography: A Game stars Magdalena Schejbal, Grzegorz Damięcki and Krzysztof Tyniec. Directed by Aleksander Kaniewski, and performed in Polish (note to monoglots, there will be no English subtitles!), this promises to be one of the cultural highlights of September.

Teatr Ateneum ul. Jaracza 2, teatrateneum.pl

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QUIRKS & T CURIOSITIES Baffling, contradictory but also compelling, the Insider explores the Museum of Warsaw…

BY STUART DOWELL | PHOTOS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

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he watercolor hawkers on the market square have been selling picturesque scenes of Old Town for years. In the future though, a typical scene might depict a group of tourists scratching their heads in bewilderment after leaving the Museum of Warsaw.

When it reopened last summer, only 8 of the 21 exhibition rooms were complete. In June this year, the remaining 13 rooms opened, creating a challenging, Marmite-like museum that is baffling and beguiling in equal measure. It is so outside-the-box that the box is likely to be an exhibit in the museum’s Packaging Room.

Visiting the museum is hard work to say the least. It’s not a narrative museum that tells a linear story and it is most definitely a multimedia-free zone. What is it then? It is more of a museum of Warsaw’s craft, industry and culture than a typical history museum. It is a place that showcases things that originated in, were made in and witnessed events in Warsaw.

As a city that was almost completely razed to the ground, its past iterations can seem more exotic than Timbuktu or Tokyo. There is sense, therefore, in focusing on objects that provide a tantalising link with a long, lost past.

It is also a place of contradictions.

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

Do! Review

The Museum of Warsaw Old Town Market Square, muzeumwarszawy.pl

It’s emphasis on rescued objects is born from Warsaw’s tragic past, yet there is little focus on these tragedies.

It has permanent exhibitions, but they are changed every few months.

It rejects current trends, yet feels modern, and it focuses on old things, yet speaks to the young – deputy director Jarosław Trybuś cheekily described the Room of Photographs as Warsaw’s Instagram.

To get the most out of the objects on display, you have to be able to relate them to dates, periods and events in Warsaw’s history. However, you won’t learn about any of that here. It would be good if there were another museum that told the story of Warsaw’s past that you could visit first, then come here to enjoy the exhibits. There is, it must be stressed, interest, beauty and enjoyment to be had in all this madness though, a lot of which is supplied by the building itself. Spread throughout the eleven townhouses that occupy the whole northern side of Rynek, it is like an escape room crossed with a stately home maze. It’s great fun to scramble up narrow staircases, duck under low thresholds and squeeze through narrow corridors.

In the spirit of post-modernism, there is no ‘right’ way to move through the exhibitions. You choose your own path; you decide what story the museum will tell you. Don’t worry about getting lost though – the free audio guide always knows where you are. Like a helpfully informative Big Brother, it will automatically pontificate about whatever you are standing in front of. How you actually choose a sensible, logical route is less clear, although some highlights certainly stand out. The Map Room is one, which displays the Tirregaille map from 1762 as its centrepiece surrounded by earlier and later maps.

Other maps can be viewed by pulling out draws, and Sherlock-style magnifying glasses make it fun to examine in detail how the city has changed over the centuries. The Packaging Room, meanwhile, is a nostalgiafueled emporium of old coffee cans, medicine bottles and cigarette packages, which are displayed in a cleverly designed cabinet that shows

the items from all sides.

Finally, every tour must include the Room of Relics, many of which come from the Second World War and the Warsaw Uprising. Each object is housed in a display case dressed in gold leaf, creating a hallowed, even religious effect, and every case comes with a draw that can be pulled out to reveal a description of the object and its importance.

Many will be disappointed that there is not greater emphasis on the Second World War, but perhaps Churchill’s words apply to the Museum of Warsaw – a riddle, wrapped in a mystery inside an enigma.

In the spirit of postmodernism, there is no ‘right’ way to move through the exhibitions. You choose your own path warsawinsider.pl

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DO! Events Pancernej Equipped with 367 jets capable of firing 30,000 liters of water per minute, the carefully choreographed displays are paired with synchronized audio and visual displays to stunning effect. Themed on the legend of Prince Bear, this year’s program of events concludes on September 29.

FESTIVAL International Festival of Contemporary Music

EDITOR’S PICK Tats Zachęta Gallery, Pl. Małachowskiego 3

Dubbed a pop culture anthropologist, artist Maurycy Gomulicki documents the primitive tattoos that were once such a common sight around Polish housing estates in the 1970s. Often created in detention centers, labor camps and prisons, these tatts frequently referenced subjects of paradise, pleasure and longing. Ongoing through September (and running till the end of October), his compelling study promises to be one of the more memorable exhibitions of the year.

FESTIVAL 15th Singer Festival of Jewish Culture

Ongoing till September 2 @ various locations In excess of 200 events have been planned over a nine-day period, including screenings, guided walks, discussions, cookery workshops, literary meetings and concerts. The spotlight, as ever, will fall on Próżna, Pl. Grzybowski and the Nożyk Synagogue. Featuring an open-air market and outdoor stage, it’s round these parts that the spirit of the festival truly reveals itself: the final night is a party to remember.

For further info and schedule, see: festiwalsingera.pl

FESTIVAL Otwarta Ząbkowska

1-2 Sept @ ul. Ząbkowska Colorful, energetic and

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audaciously eccentric, this street festival sees Ząbkowska, Praga’s spiritual gateway, closed to traffic and transformed courtesy of outbreaks of street yoga, cooking workshops, live gigs, literary readings and vintage vinyl markets. Held intermittently over summer, this weekend will conclude this year’s program.

For further info, see: otwartazabkowska.pl

FOOD Fine Dining Week

Ongoing till 9 Sep @ various locations The latest edition of ‘fine dining week’ aims to showcase the higher end of the capital’s restaurant scene: for zł. 119 diners will be able to enjoy a tailor-made 5-course tasting menu at a

Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2018

number of upmarket restaurants. Debutants this year include the Michelin-starred Senses restaurant.

For more info, see: finediningweek.pl

CONCERT Chopin in the Park

Every Sunday, 12:00 & 16:00 @ Chopin Statue, Łazienki Park Listen to some of Poland’s top talents – young and old – recite works from Chopin’s oeuvre in the rose-edged gardens of Łazienki Park.

September 30th will be your last chance of the year before the concerts are put on ice for the winter.

FAMILY Prince Bear

Every Fri & Sat, 21:00 @ Multimedia Fountain Park, Skwer im. I Dywizji

20-30 Sept @ various locations A variety of locations (including the Królikarnia Sculpture Park, Zachęta, the Planetarium, etc.) will play host to a number of workshops, meetings, debates and performances that will involve all manner of weird and avant garde instruments.

For info, see: warszawska-jesien.art.pl

FESTIVAL Cross Culture Festival 16-22 Sept @ various locations Created to promote cultural and musical diversity, the fourteenth edition of this annual festival will focus on the music of Africa and will feature workshops and debates as well as generous list of concerts.

For info, see: festival.warszawa.pl

SPORT Warsaw Marathon

30 Sept, 9:00 @ ul. Konwiktorska The 40th edition of the Warsaw Marathon follows a 42 kilometer route that takes in many of the city’s highlights: among them Łazienki and the Royal Castle. The run is expected to draw over 8,500 participants and registration is mandatory.

For info, see: pzumaratonwarszawski.com

The Korean Gallery 한국 전시실 New exhibition in National Ethnographic Museum, Kredytowa 1, Warsaw

PRODUCENCI

Wystawa dofinansowana ze środków Samorządu Województwa Mazowieckiego oraz przez Ministerstwo Kultury, Sportu i Turystyki w Korei.

PARTNERZY

DO! Museums

F O T O P L A S T I KO N

Copernicus Science Centre Featuring hundreds of interactive exhibitions, it’s a place that allows young and old alike to blast objects into space, experience an earthquake or steer exploratory robots. ul.

Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, kopernik.org.pl

CSW Situated in a baroque-style castle the center hosts artists from all over the world.

The on-site bookshop is of particular interest for artists and intellectuals. ul. Jazdów 2, csw.art.pl

Dom Spotkań z Historią The History Meeting House wins points for small but frequently excellent exhibitions that cover topics such as ‘rebuilding Warsaw’ and ‘Socialist Realist architecture.’

ethnomuseum.pl

Fotoplastikon Thought to date from 1905, Warsaw’s Fotoplastikon generates 3D perspectives from a set of 2D images: visitors peer through an eyepiece and are taken on a trip around the world while music from days yore parps away in the background. Al. Jerozolimskie 51, fotoplastikonwarszawski.pl

Fryderyk Chopin Museum The 18th century Ostrogski Palace is the perfect foil for the ultra-modern content of this multi-sensory space. The personal items are enchanting, but the big victory here is the museum’s ability to suck visitors right back into the times of Chopin through the use of interactive sights and sounds. ul. Okólnik 1, chopin.museum

ul. Karowa 20, dsh.waw.pl

Ethnographic Museum Considerably revamped to meet the demands and attention-spans of the 21st century sightseer, the Ethnographic Museum is a visual pleasure that showcases colorful costumes, fabrics and ceramics from Poland and beyond. ul. Kredytowa 1,

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The Heritage Interpretation Center This small venue tells the complex story of Old Town’s reconstruction: if the first section about Warsaw’s physical elimination is poignant, then the others do a fabulous job of sharing the optimism and alacrity that followed. ul.

Brzozowa 11-13, mhw.pl

Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2018

K AT Y Ń M U S E U M

Jewish Historical Institute Officially opened in 1947 the Jewish Historical Institute was created to serve as an archive of Jewish culture in Warsaw. It contains artwork, historical artifacts and important documents from the city’s rich Jewish past. ul.

young owner, the museum is split into a few different sections: one devoted to state and subversive literature, and another that recreates an empty store typical of the times. Our highlight, though, is the recreation of a commie-era apartment. ul.

Tłomackie 3/5, jhi.pl

Glucha (opposite Soho Factory), adventurewarsaw.com

Katyń Museum This museum commemorates the murder of 21,000 Polish officers by the Soviets in the spring of 1940. Beyond its quite staggering architectural merit, the museum has done a stunning job of collecting and presenting artifacts relating to the slaughter. ul.

Jeziorańskiego 4, muzeumkatynskie.pl

Marie Skłodowska-Curie Musuem Reopened after a significant re-haul, this museum celebrates the groundbreaking scientist that discovered polonium. The Curie-osities include lab equipment, her trademark black dress and even her nail file. ul. Freta 16, en.muzeum-msc.pl

Museum of Communist Life Lovingly assembled by its

Museum of Praga The Praga Museum tells the story of the area with such charm and simplicity that it manages to leave an unlikely impression that’s as punchy as that of the big institutions. Star billing goes to a restored Jewish prayer room and the Flying Carpet: an exhibit festooned with various trinkets and treasures once available for purchase from local pavement traders. ul. Targowa 50/52, muzeumwarszawy.pl

Museum of Warsaw Over 8,000 objects detail the story of Warsaw, and these include peculiar souvenirs, scale models, old postcards and recovered works of art.

Cohesive and comprehensive yet never too overwhelming, the trail climaxes with

DO! Museums

POLIN

vertiginous views of the Rynek below. Unmissable.

Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42, muzeumwarszawy.pl

National Museum Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars. Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.

Pawiak What was once a Tsarist prison assumed a doubly sinister function under the Nazis. Some 100,000 Polish political prisoners were held here, 37,000 of which were executed on-site. Split in two sections, cells are found on one side, while on the other the full story of the invasion and occupation. ul. Dzielna

Factory), neonmuzeum.org

Palmiry National Memorial Museum An excellent multimedia exhibition set next to a cemetery holding the graves of 1,700 Poles executed in the first years of Nazi occupation.

The museum tells their forgotten story as well as that of the siege and subsequent occupation of Warsaw.

Palmiry, palmiry.mhw.pl

supplement, and its gradual acceptance into mainstream society. Highlights include a motherlode of vintage bottles and an interactive chamber in which visitors can test their alcohol knowledge, learn about salutation customs and strap-on goggles to see the disorienting effects of overconsumption. Pl. Konesera 1,

Polin Composed of eight galleries, each covers a different stage of local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day. Highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec synagogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical inter-war Jewish Warsaw street. Named the European Museum of the Year in 2016. ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl

Polish Vodka Museum Documenting the nation’s 600-year-old love affair with the tipple, visits kick-off in earnest with displays that trace the origins of the drink, its early beginnings as a medicinal

Exhibits range from a full-size replica of a Liberator plane, to a sewer beneath the cinema screen and a slice of bread preserved from 1944.

And don’t miss the ‘City of Ruins’, a five minute 3D film which takes you on an aerial journey over devastated Warsaw. ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl

muzeumpolskiejwodki.pl

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art.pl

The Neon Museum Filled with salvaged signage, this museum houses several dozen neons that once lit up the capital. The emphasis is firmly on the PRL era, a time when the nation’s best graphic designers were nutty for neon. ul. Mińska 25 (Soho

M U S E U M O F WA R S AW

The Royal Castle in Warsaw Highlights include the lavishly restored 18th century royal apartments with 22 paintings

by Canaletto, the Senators’ Chamber in which the Constitution of the Third of May was signed, the biggest collection of oriental rugs in Europe and two remarkable Rembrandt paintings. Pl. Zamkowy 4, zamek-krolewski.pl

Wola Museum What was once a dreary old place has been rebooted as a smart communityminded museum and one of the most forward-thinking institutions in the capital.

Bringing the wider area of Wola alive, find engaging content that’s creatively presented: posters, family memorabilia and various media relating to the area. ul.

Srebrna 12, mhw.pl

The Warsaw Amber Museum Part of Bursztynek, a dedicated amber shop, has been turned into a curious museum detailing the history of amber. Rynek Starego Miasta 4/6, bursztynek.co

Warsaw Rising Museum Cope with the crowds to discover the definitive story of the 1944 Uprising in town.

Zachęta National Art Gallery Regarded as one of Poland’s most prestigious galleries, the Zachęta has a busy program of temporary exhibitions that frequently showcase some of the biggest names in domestic and international contemporary art. Pl. Małachowskiego 3, zacheta.art.pl warsawinsider.pl

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DO! Education preschools

Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, canadian-school.pl

American School of Warsaw American School of Warsaw provides a rich, meaningful and balanced educational experience through age-appropriate activities to students aged 3 to 5. For further information and/or to visit our school, contact:admissions@aswarsaw.org or 22 ul. Warszawska

The British School Early Years Centre The British School provides EYFS classes from Pre-nursery (age 30 months) to Reception (5 years old). Children develop quickly and their Early Years practitioners aim to do all they can to help your child have the best possible start in life and become a lifelong learner. ul. Dąbrowskiego 84

202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, aswarsaw.org

(Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646 7777 , thebritishschool.pl

The British Primary School of Wilanów Following the National Curriculum of England and Wales, this is the first School in Poland subject to the inspection of the UK Independent School Inspectorate. Pupils receive British and, upon request, Polish reports/ diplomas. The school follows a closed admissions policy and limits enrollment of one nationality to below 50% of each class starting from Year 1. ul. Hlonda 12, bsww.pl

The Canadian School of Warsaw Preschool Welcoming students from the ages of 2.5 to 6 years old, currently 45% of their admissions are international students. The dedicated, IB-trained teachers deliver an innovative program (PYP) in English designed for modern world needs. The program offers a combination of Literacy, Maths, Social Studies, Science, Physical Education, Art, Music & Rhythmics, French and Polish classes. ul.

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations) Warsaw Montessori School Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have three green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in earlychildhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob.

692 099 134, warsawmontessori. edu.pl

International School of Warsaw The ISW offers education for children aged from 3 to 18-years-old. The school campus is set amid picturesque countryside near

Piaseczno and provides a holistic education that combines a high quality curriculum based on the International Baccalaureate program with extra scholarly activities such as outdoor classes, robotics or STEAM. Lessons are conducted in English or French as the main language.

The ISW is the only school in Poland accredited by the European Union. ul. Mazowiecka 43, www.isw.edu.pl

International Trilingual School of Warsaw Established in 1994, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fillimmersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072

Casa dei Bambini Warsaw Montessori School accepting

applications for all our locations and programs: Infant & Toddler: age 15 months-2.5 years, Casa: age 2.5-6 years Contact Karolina: tel. 692 099 134 office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl Elementary: age 6-9, 9-12 years Contact Sylvia: tel. 606 276 112 sylvia@warsawmontessori.edu.pl

warsaw montessori family

"Erdkinder" Middle School: age 12-15 years Contact Małgosia: tel. 604 137 826 malgosia@warsawmontessori.edu.pl Warszawa: Szwoleżerów 4, Badowska 19, Tatrzańska 5a, Izabelin-Hornówek: Szkolna 16

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www.wmf.edu.pl

DO! Education 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/ saint-exupery.pl

The English Playhouse The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów.

The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old.

For more info or to arrange a tour call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email: jnowak@theenglishplayhouse. com ul. Pływiańska 14a, tel. 22 843 9370, tep.edu.pl

Happy Montessori House The Happy Montessori House offers part-time and full-time

places for children aged between 2 to 6 years, as well as toddler-focused activities (from 18 months to 3 years) centered around movement, sensorial stimulation, storytelling, singing and socializing.

Warsaw Montessori Pre-school, ul. Rumiana 14, tel. 22 423 50 75, mob. 697 060 504, hmh.com.pl

Maple Tree Montessori Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to

schools

30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, mapletreemontessori.pl

Montessori Academy for International Children An English-speaking preschool (16 months to 6 years of age) with two locations. The school’s policy is to comply with Montessori standards, using the Montessori Method in English. The school’s philosophy is based on the joy of learning, which comes from discovering and furthering the individual development of each child. ul. Królewicza Jakuba 36 (Wilanów), ul. Sadowa 4 (Konstancin), Open 8:00-16:45, tel. 502 315 022, montessoriacademy.eu

American School of Warsaw ASW is a premier college-preparatory international school that offers a PK-12 curriculum, including the IB Diploma Program in Grades 11 and 12. Students are inspired and challenged every day by experienced and dedicated teachers, who provide enriching learning opportunities in a world class facility. For further information contact: admissions@aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00. ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, aswarsaw.org

Celebrating

25 years of

British Education in Warsaw

www.thebritishschool.pl

warsawinsider.pl

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DO! Education

The British Primary School of Wilanów Following the National Curriculum of England and Wales, this is the first School in Poland subject to the inspection of the UK Independent School Inspectorate. Pupils receive British and, upon request, Polish reports/diplomas.

The school follows a closed admissions policy and limits enrollment of one nationality to below 50% of each class starting from Year 1. ul. Hlonda 12, bsww.pl

The British School Premium international school

established in 1992 by Nord Anglia Education. The curriculum is designed to provide the highest academic quality of education. They follow the English National Curriculum, adapted to the needs of their international student community: from Primary through to the Secondary Key Stages to the IGCSE examinations and a well-established International Baccalaureate (IB) Diploma Program. ul. Limanowskiego 15,

operating small businesses, caring for local flora and fauna as well as domesticated animals, taking charge of the younger children and much more. “Adolescence Program” activities, integrated with academic studies, help students discover their inner strength to meet life’s real challenges. ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, warsawmontessori.edu.pl

tel. 22 842 3281, thebritishschool.pl

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations) Warsaw Montessori School Guided by trained specialists, students will be responsible for managing their household,

100 Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2018

The Canadian School of Warsaw International Elementary and Middle School Located on two campuses in the Mokotów this is the only authorized IB School with PYP programs taught in English

and Polish. French is taught as a third language. Offers a wide range of extra activities, a summer school, and employs a full time psychologist. Provision is made for additional Polish and English support.

International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create the perfect learning environment. ul. Bełska 7, tel. 692 411 573 / 885 420 044, secretary@canadianschool.pl or secretary.olimpijska@ canadian-school.pl

The English Primary The English Primary is designed specifically for children in the primary education ages, just as children experience in England but in an

DO! Education in Poland accredited by the European Union. ul. Mazowiecka

international community.

Pupils are taken through the key learning stages so that they can achieve to the best of their ability through a fun learning experience. The Core Curriculum subjects include English, Phonics, Science, Mathematics, French, PE and Swimming, Music, Personal, Social and Health Education.

43, isw.edu.pl

qualified staff are committed to delivering only the highest standards of education. ul.

Stępińska 13, tel. 22 852 06 08, maturamiedzynarodowa.pl

ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 784 037 808, tep.edu.pl

International School of Warsaw The International School of Warsaw offers education for children from 3 to 18-years old. ISW provides a holistic education that combines a high quality international curriculum based on the International Baccalaureate with extra scholarly activities such as outdoor classes, robotics or STEAM. Lessons are conducted in English or French as main a language.

Additionally, students can choose foreign language classes in Polish, Spanish, German, Chinese, Russian, or French. ISW is the only school

International Trilingual School of Warsaw Established in 1994, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fillimmersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/ saint-exupery.pl

Monnet International School Located in Mokotów, the Monnett is the only school in Poland that implements the International Baccalaureate Program from kindergarten level all the way through to secondary school. The fully-

Warsaw Montessori School Focuses on the Montessori curriculum with an education based on the integration of conceptual learning and real-life experiences. ul.

Szwoleżerów 4, tel. 22 841 3908, warsawmontessori.edu.pl

Willy Brandt Schule Warschau One of the city’s best renowned schools offers a kindergarten as well as primary and secondary education conducted to a German curriculum. Św. Urszuli Ledóchowskiej 3, wbs.pl

adult learning Cup of Polish Personalized Polish classes adapted to meet your needs.

Also home/company visits and online courses. For a free 60-minute trial email: kontakt@cupofpolish.com cupofpolish.com

Edu & More Polish Language School incorporating modern teaching methods and reasonable prices. Intensive & regular Polish courses for beginners.

Business & everyday Polish. ul.

Nowogrodzka 44 / 7

Frog Acclaimed language school aimed at all levels of competency. Flexible schedules and a history of working with foreigners make it one of the ‘go to’ choices for new arrivals wanting to polish their Polish. ul. Mazowiecka 12/24, frog.org.pl

Klub Dialogu Programs for foreigners living in Poland: a variety of courses aimed at every level. Using over ten years of experience, the leaning process becomes an adventure at Klub Dialogu. ul. Ordynacka 13/5, klubdialogu.pl

Together School With locations in both Kraków and Warsaw, Together have seven years of experience teaching Polish and English for everyday life, business and general communication.

Mariensztat 8

monnet international school

PADDINGTON BEAR KINDERGARTEN

IB World School no 001483

on's ngt LUB i d Pad EN'S C EN LDR CHI OW OP N

Education for a better world

Belwederska 6a, Warsaw

www.maturamiedzynarodowa.pl/przedszkole warsawinsider.pl

101

DO! Health & Beauty golf Centrum Golf Fulfill the dream of playing at Pebble Beach or Torrey Pines by booking a tee-time on one of Centrum Golf’s HD golf simulators. Added benefits include instant analysis and data to improve your game. ul.

Burakowska 15, centrumgolf.pl

First Warsaw Golf & Country Club Features a par 72, 18-hole championships golf course, all year driving range, luxurious club house and a stunning environment replete with gliding swans and bouncing bunnies! The final hole, set on an island, attracts golfers from across Poland and beyond. ul.

gyms

Exuma Gym Warsaw’s latest luxury gym features equipment by Life Fitness and Hammer Strength, a wellness zone, private parking and stunning views of the National Stadium across the river. ul. Wioślarska 10, exumagym.com

Holmes Place Energy High standard equipment, personal training and group classes. Six month membership available for approx. zł.

200 per month, though prices are subject to change. Al. Jana

Golfowa (Jabłonna), firstwarsawgolf.com

Pawła II 82 (C.H. Arkadia), ul.

Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), holmesplace.pl

Golf Parks Poland Keen golfers (all ages) can perfect their swing at this friendly, well equipped driving range, whilst beginners can opt for professional individual lessons or beginner group programs in English or Polish.

Located in Wilanów. ul. Vogla 19,

Holmes Place Premium Three ‘premium locations’, with the Hilton and Regent branches housing a 25-meter pool. Sauna and steam room facilities are available in all all three, as are a varied timetable of classes plus personal training. ul. Belwederska 23

golfparkspoland.pl

(Regent Hotel), ul. Grzybowska 63

102 Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2018

(Hilton), Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), holmesplace.pl

Little Gym Targeted at children, expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructorto-child ratio, original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. ul. Bruzdowa 56, thelittlegym.pl

McFit A 2,000 sq/m studio that utilizes the latest technology as well as ‘cyber training’ programs. Open 24/7, with membership from zł. 89 per month. ul. Świętokrzyska 3 (corner of Nowy Świat), mcfit.com

Quantum Fitness A place of quiet, understated luxury, equipment is state-ofthe-art and complemented by expert trainers at the peak of their game. This is the full 24-carat gym experience. ul.

Piękna 15, quantumpiekna.pl

RiverView Wellness Centre Top-class facilities and equipment, private instructors and small classes. The view from the highest pool in Europe

offers a glorious panorama of the city and is almost worth the membership fee alone.

Annual prices begin from around zł. 4,000. ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental), riverview. com.pl

hair & beauty Bartek Janusz Salon The staff here takes a nononsense approach to cutting hair – it goes along with the minimalist chic interiors of the place. ul. Mokotowska 19 / ul.

Wilcza 72, bartekjanusz.pl

BodyClinic Thorough body care for everyone. From the usual options to a huge variety of massages and some very exotic treatments, BodyClinic covers all the bases. ul. Oboźna 9 lok. 104, bodyclinic.pl

Dotyk SPA Probably the only place in Warsaw where you’ll get a facial yoga session. Going further east, treat yourself to Japanese, Polynesian or Indian massage. ul. Biały Kamień 3, tel.

22 898 7272, dotykspa.pl

DO! Health & Beauty OPI varnishes and over 200 colors guarantee you’ll find the latest in styling and nail care.

Effectownia Hair Design Fully up-to-speed with the latest international trends, Effectownia’s English-speaking stylists promise passion and only top-notch cosmetics.

The coffee is great as well! ul.

Narbutta 83/u7, tel. 22 370 24 57, effectownia.pl

ul. Pokorna 2, pedicure-place.pl

spas & salons

retrodayspa.pl

Clochee Natural, organic cosmetic brand that’s been dubbed a ‘pro-health project for your body and soul’. Using only certified ingredients, Clochee’s beauty products bring you closer to nature. Newlylaunched, their flagship store also houses a top-notch spa facilities. ul. Nowolipki 13, spa. clochee.com/spa

ouch!

Ouch!

Experts in waxing, Ouch! aim their offer at ‘busy women looking for express treatments with lasting effects who, at the same time, appreciate a sense of intimacy’. ul. Belwederska 32, DEPILACJA WOSKIEM

Retro Day Spa Royally indulgent interiors hark back to a different century, though the treatments are all hi-tech and include packages for pregnant women among the variety of beauty offers. Al. Ujazdowskie 18/11, Sante The dry and wet steam room left the Insider impressed, but not as much as the ‘mood rooms’ – imagine a lunar landscape chamber with a salt-covered floor. The other, meanwhile, comes clad in minerals with recliners hewn from heated tiles. ul.

Jagiellońska 55A, studiosante.pl

You & You Maciej Wróblewski Poland’s premier hair stylist is Maciej Wróblewski, and his flagship salon fuses a personal approach with professional styling. Disappointments are unheard of. ul.

Grzybowska 61 (Galeria Platinum Towers), youandyou.eu

sport

ouch.pl

PARDON MY FRENCH

manicure pedicure

Pardon My French Manicure and pedicure treatments with high quality lacquers and an awareness of global trends: if you need an endorsement, Paul McCartney visited when he was in Poland! ul.

Belwederska 32; Bonifraterska 8; ul. Mokotowska 56, ul. Wilcza 3 pardonmyfrench.pl

The Pedicure Place A luxury pedi/manicure clinic with room for 10. All the latest

Fly Spot Ever wanted to know what it’s like to fly? As in really fly??

Find out inside a vertical wind tunnel where fans whirring at a speed of up to 310 km/hr will send you shooting up in the air. Wspólna Droga 1 (Mory), flyspot.com

Hangar 646 Hangar 646 touts 50 interlinked trampolines, a ping pong zone, ball pools and even a snowboard slide where visitors hurtle down a ramp before splashing down on an inflatable mattress. ul. Wał

Stacja Grawitacja Set over 3,200 sq/m of space, this indoor trampoline extravaganza sends visitors bouncing down ‘ninja obstacle courses’, sky slamming basketball hoops and jumping around in dodgeball shenanigans. ul.

Bohaterów Września 12

yoga & pilates Astanga Yoga Studio Established in 2005, this studio specializes in ashtanga and also offers physiotherapy, Hawaiian massage, reflexology and kalari chikitsa. ul.

Gałczyńskiego 4, astanga.pl

SHORTCUT YOUR POLISH

A

sk the millennials of Poland and they’ll tell you that the ‘word of 2017’ was actually an emoji: XD. Pronounced iksde, find it used instead of the more standard zabawne or śmieszne (i.e. “that’s funny”). Also rising in popularity is the word beka, or in English, “good joke”. Bekowy (“funny”) can also be applied to a film or a book, or in answer to how your day is.

So if someone asks Jak dzień?, show your in tune with the times by answering Bekowo XD. These aren’t the only shortcuts you can use to pimp your Polish…

Thank you dziękuję to dzięki or even dzięks How are you? jak się masz? Simplify to siema which also can be used instead of czesc.

See you later na razie to nara Greetings pozdrowienia to pozdro But it’s when it comes to text messages we can really start to cheat!

I do not know nie wiem nw / nwm I’m here już jestem jj I’ll be right back zaraz wracam zw What are you doing? co robisz? cr?

Until tomorrow do jutra dj I will be będę bd I will be later będę potem bdp Bye bye pa pa pp I love you kocham cię kc And remember, if you have a problem understanding something in Polish, instead of reverting to a banal nie rozumiem, try nie kumam instead.

For more shortcuts visit: cupofpolish.com/pimpyourpolish

Miedzeszyński 646, hangar646.pl warsawinsider.pl

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DO! Shopping Listings fashion Ania Kuczyńska Ania Kuczyńska is becoming well known for her highly fashionable, minimalist clothing designs. The store also carries adorable baby clothes and various accessories. ul.

Mokotowska 61

Balthazar An atelier, boutique and private tailor with several unique brands. Book your meeting by calling tel. 535 545 728. ul. Mokotowska 64 (Plac Trzech Krzyży), balthazar.pl

Chiara A solid assortment of Marc Jacobs and other top international designers such as Michael Kors and Jil Sander.ul. Mokotowska 49 & Pl. Uni Lubelskiej, tel. 22 647 0394, chiara-online.pl

Dream Nation Founded in 2011, Dream Nation is a label committed to sustainable fashion. Find colorful dresses and original prints spruced up by the designer’s wild, personal twist.

All garments are made using organic cotton. ul. Kopernika 8/18, dreamnation.pl

EM Cashmere Boutique Available brands include Allude Cashmere, Annette Görtz, Studiorundholz and Sarah Pacini with 30-40% discounts on last year’s collections, and up to 70% on those of previous years. ul. Szczygla 8,

Just Paul Exuding confident femininity, this energetic brand is characterized by its light and unobtrusive elegance and sense of effortless nonchalance. Founded in 2012 by designers Justyna and Paula, Just Paul seeks to address the needs of the modern woman with its line in chic but casual clothing and more dazzly evening wear. ul. Mokotowska 61 L’Aura L’Aura is the only place in the city where you can find unique pieces from the likes of Hussein Chalayan, Dries Van Noten and Veronique Branquinho. ul.

Mokotowska 26

Likus Concept Store The Likus Concept Store brings ultra-chic designer clothing to Warsaw. The latest collections from Diesel, D2, Ferre, Stone Island, Sophia Kokosalaki and J. Lindeberg are all available and presented in this stylish three-floor department store. ul. Bracka 9

ul. Browarna 4, femistories.com

Łukasz Jemioł Known for his sophisticated yet nonchalant designs, discover Łukasz Jemioł’s flagship store in the heart of Warsaw’s boutique quarter. Utilizing the highest quality fabrics, his contemporary apparel comes in two lines, Premium and Basic. ul. Mokotowska 26, jemiol. com

Maare On-trend Polish female fashion label with a flagship boutique on, it almost goes without saying, Mokotowska.

Known for their boho chic look and flowery dresses, the brand has fast gained a name for clothing that’s edgy and upmarket yet also highly affordable. ul. Mokotowska 46, maare.eu

LoveYa This upcoming Polish fashion brand aims itself at ‘women who value originality and like to play with styles and colors’.

Noted for their use of highquality materials and fabrics, their founding tenets are based upon elegance, creativity and taste. ul. Mokotowska

Moliera 2 Boutique Brands: Alexnadre Birman, Alexandre Vauthier, Aquazzura, Balmain, Beach Bunny, Burberry, Buscemi, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Cult Gaia, Francesco Russo, Gianvito Rossi, Golden Goose, Herve Leger, Isabel Marant, Kenzo, Maison Michel, Marc Jacobs, Manolo Blahnik, Moncler, OneTeaspoon, Self-Portrait, Tod’s, Tory Burch, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon, Zimmermann.

46A, loveya.pl

ul. Moliera 2, moliera2.com

(Vitkac), likusconceptstore.pl

emcashmere.pl

Femi Stories Aimed at the young, active woman of today, Femi Pleasure’s dynamic range of clothing is both urban and outdoorsy. ‘Unique design, quality and comfort’ are the sacred three pillars upon which their philosophy is built.

Mokotowska 26, lui-store.com

Lui Store Elegant female fashion store with brands including Attico, Rixo London, 3.1 Philip Lim, Les Coyottes de Paris, Jonathan Simkhai, as well as lesser-known names making their first in-roads into the world of high fashion. ul.

104 Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2018

Non’chalant Playing up to the ideals of classic Italian and British style, Non’chalant present an array of accessories aimed at the dapper gentleman: high quality ties, cravats, pocket squares, socks and scarves. ul.

Koszykowa 67, nonchalant.pl

Pan Tu Nie Stal Polish design at its peak: fashion is prominent, but

there’s also interesting bitsy things such as aprons, jam jars, notebooks and mugs – all with a defiantly Polish twist.

Eccentric, unusual and emphatically on-trend, it’s a must-visit. Koszykowa 35/40, pantuniestal.com

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Brands: Beach Bunny, Buscemi, Canada Goose, Casadei, Christian Louboutin Men, Dsquared2, Fay, Gianvito Rossi, Hogan, Kenzo, Moncler, Mr & Mrs Italy, OTS, Ralph Lauren, Tod’s, Tom Ford, Tory Burch, Valentino, Yves Salomon. Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, plactrzechkrzyzy.com

Ptasia 6 A unique ladies concept store showcasing the works of both emerging and established independent Polish fashion labels such as Eva Grygo, Confashion, Horror! Horror!, Kasia Miciak and Polanka. ul.

Ptasia 6, ptasia6.pl

Reykjavik District Chic, well-cut menswear for all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal. ul. Burakowska 15, reykjavikdistrict.com

Risk. Made In Warsaw Mixing modern shapes with expert tailoring, the idea was to create a look that’s both comfortable yet chic. That they’ve been featured in the likes of Vogue and Elle suggests that this target has been accomplished. ul. Szpitalna 9, riskmadeinwarsaw.com

Robert Kupisz One of Warsaw’s hottest fashion icons, and a trip here soon explains why. The exclusive, handmade garments are a guaranteed head turner. ul.

Mokotowska 48/204 (courtyard), robertkupisz.com

DO! Shopping Listings Sabotage Those in-the-know know Sabotage as one of the places to buy funky deconstructed denim and sportswear pieces. Here you’ll find a wide array of unique clothes, hats, belts and handbags in a variety of fabrics and styles that hail straight from New York, London and Tokyo. ul.

Burakowska 5/7

See Me Boutique Regarded as one of the stalwart boutiques of Mokotowska, See Me’s collection includes the latest lines from Joseph, Diane Von Furstenberg, Daniela De Marchi and many others besides. Scented interiors and expert service make it the ideal place in which to browse the afternoon the away. ul.

the Czech Republic, it’s the Danish bits and pieces that really stand out. ul. Poznańska 3/14, futureantiques.eu

Green Bells Green Bells present miniature eco-worlds kept perfectly preserved inside ornamental glass: an ideal statement piece for house and home, your very own ‘forest in a jar’ will set you back from zł. 120 upwards. ul. Grzybowska 16/22, fb.com/ greenbells

Lata 60-te Specializing in expertly refreshed furniture from the PRL era, it’s become a favorite of design mavens looking to trick out their home with a pre-loved retro statement piece. ul. 11 Listopada 54, lata60-te.pl

Mokotowska 51/53, seeme.com.pl

Snobissimo Top labels from design houses like Jimmy Choo, Sonia Rykiel, Les Copains, Sergio Rossi etc., etc. With shoes and accessories all provided for, it’s a one-stop shop to re-boot your wardrobe. ul. Mokotowska 28 Viola Śpiechowicz Inspiring, unpretentious and highly creative, Viola Śpiechowicz reinvisions what it means to be feminine by giving classic styles a progressive edge – choose from limited pret a porter collection and exclusive haute couture creations. ul. Chopina 5B, violaspiechowicz.com

home Future Antiques These stylish, mid-century pieces have been refreshed using artisanal techniques to return items to their fullest aesthetic potential. Though much of the furniture is sourced from France, Italy and

Le Pukka For interior inspirations take a look at Le Pukka: highly original furniture and decorative pieces for the home come from the likes of Smeg, AreaDeclic, HK Living and Zuiver. ul. Solec 58/60, lepukka.pl Makutra To know and not to cook, is not to know. This store has everything a master chef seeks: from tagines to mezzalunas, it’s got the lot covered. Huge stock of cook books and kitchenware. ul.

Oleandrów 5, makutra.com

Nap Bedtime accessories are the bread and butter here, but there’s also several bits for the kitchen as well: coffee makers

by Tom Dixon, posh pans from Baumalu, arty saltshakers from Menu and tableware from Muubs. ul. Mysia 3 Plantarium Concentrating on low maintenance air plants, owner Kamila Ciszek has accrued a number

106 Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2018

of big, leafy ferns, towering succulents and hard-to-find plants that are uncommon to Poland. Impressive in scope and outlook, your home won’t ever feel the same. ul. Puławska 38, plantarium.pl

Porcelanowa Award-winning, contemporary Polish porcelain produced by cult, internationally recognized brands such as Aoomi and Fenek. ul. Kredytowa 2, porcelanowa.com

Scandinavian Living Representing upcoming Swedish, Danish and Finnish designers as well as several truly iconic names, Scandinavian Living presents such finds as tablecloths from Lazy Linen, ceramics by Bloomingville, and fun tableware from Muminki. ul. Wiertnicza 155, scandinavianliving.pl

SH Studio Art, interior design and furniture are married together inside a tiny store stacked with beautiful antique and retro pieces that have been refurbished and redesigned to lend them a contemporary edge. ul. Wilcza 44, s-h-studio.pl Warsaw Gift Shop Run by photographers Maciej Margas and Aleksandra ‘Blogusz’ Logusz, this store specializes in large format pictures, albums, calendars, mugs and clothing adorned with the stunning aerial imagery of this awardwinning pair. ul. Zwycięzców 42, warsawgiftshop.com

malls & department stores Arkadia Not many Polish malls do it better. Stores inc. Mango,

Lacoste, Guess, Hilfiger and Peek & Cloppenburg. Al. Jana Pawła II 82, arkadia.com.pl

Galeria Mokotów Stores inc. Calvin Klein, Hollister, Hugo Boss, New Balance, Royal Collection and Timberland. ul. Wołoska 12, galeriamokotow.com.pl

Galeria Północna Białołęka’s first major shopping center includes Poland’s first outpost of Hamley’s, as well as stores such as Forever 21, Lagerfeld and Guess. Part of the ‘fourth generation of shopping centers’, add-ons include a rooftop garden and some of the best kid’s facilities on Poland’s retail map. ul. Światowida 17, galeriapolnocna.pl

Klif House of Fashion Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has a line-up of top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko. ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl Plac Unii One of Warsaw’s latest mall counts Armani Jeans, Liu-Jo and Pandora amongst its upmarket tenants. ul. Puławska 2, placunii.pl

Mysia 3 Set in Poland’s former censorship office, the line-up includes Scandinavian fashion in Cos, shoes from My Paris, unconventional fashion from Nenukko and more. ul. Mysia 3, mysia3.pl

Vitkac Wolf Bracka Poland’s first luxury department store gathers the world’s top designers under one roof. ul. Bracka 9, likusconceptstore.pl

Złote Tarasy Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Jatomi Health and Fitness Club. ul.

Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl

NEW COLLECTION

General Listings 5-Star Hotels

tel. 22 255 9590, raffles.com/ warsaw

(from 10 a.m. to 11p.m.), between-us.eu

Regent Warsaw Hotel

Boutique B&B

ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, regent-warsaw.com

ul. Smolna 14/6, tel. 22 829 4800, bedandbreakfast.pl

Bellotto ul. Senatorska 13/15, tel. 22 829 6444, hotelbellotto.pl

Express Relocations ul. Szyszkowa 35/37, expressrelocations.com

Euro Move International Movers ul. Kineskopowa 1, euromove.pl

Bristol Hotel

The Rialto Boutique Hotel

ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1000, hotelbristolwarsaw.pl

ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8700, rialto.pl

H15 Boutique ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 553 8700, info@h15ab.com, h15ab.com

car rental

Sheraton

Avis

ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6100, sheraton.pl

Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel

Fredrick Chopin Airport, tel. 22 650 4872, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 575 6583, avis.pl

ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888, radissonblu.com

Hertz Rent a Car

Hilton Warsaw

Okęcie Airport, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 2896; mob. 691 411 130. ul. Nowogrodzka 27, tel. 22 621 1360.

ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555 / 800 44 11 482, hilton.com

InterContinental

Sofitel Warsaw Victoria

ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, warsaw.intercontinental.com

ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8011, sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com

Mamaison Le Régina Hotel

Westin

ul. Kościelna 12, tel. 22 531 6000, mamaison.com

Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, westin.pl

relocation companies AGS Warsaw

Marriott Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 6306, warsawmarriott.com

ul. Julianowska 37, Piaseczno, agsmovers.com

B&B

CorstJens Worldwide Movers Raffles Europejski Warsaw

Between Us Bed & Breakfast

ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13,

ul. Bracka 20, tel. 22 8285417

ul. Nowa 23, Stara Iwiczna, corstjens.com

Interdean International ul. Geodetów 172, Piaseczno, tel.

22 701 7171, interdean.com

Move One Relocations Also immigration assistance, fine art shipping, pet transport and consulting services. Check their website for more details. ul. Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 8160, moveonerelo.com

Relo Planet International, domestic and office removals, corporate and individual relocations, fine art shipping, storage, insurance, as well as a full range of assistance services (immigration, etc.). ul. Batalinou Platerówek 3, reloplanet.com

w W a r s a www.city-tour.com.pl

Yellow Double-Decker Bus

Invites you to experience a panoramic tour of tourist attractions of the capital of Poland, Warsaw, in a relaxing and comfortable way.

Traveling over the course of approximately 1,5 hour, a double-decker bus will take you past many beautiful and interesting places of Warsaw, such as its interesting districts, palaces and churches, monuments and museums, parks and historical cemeteries, as well as the Jewish historical sites.

A GPS 12 language audio-guide, will give explanations and accompany you to make your ride a more adventurous, exciting and an unforgettable one.

Excellent Hop on Hop off and one trip service operates every day all year round.

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108 Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2018

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Warsaw Guide T H E Z AC H Ę TA

Spotkań z Historią, a small exhibition space that specializes in quirky photo exhibits that explore Warsaw’s past – though subject matter varies to cover differing chapters of the city’s history, the PRL era receives the lion’s share of attention.

MODERN WARSAW

THE ESSENTIALS...

Cut through the chaff and time manage your visit as effectively as possible.

THE OLD…

The Old Town, raised from the rubble after WWII, is symbolic of this ‘phoenix city’, and fully deserving of its UNESCO listed status. The Royal Castle is a maze of fancy chambers and important paintings by the likes of Rembrandt and Canaletto, while the Museum of Warsaw offers a peerless peek into the complexities of Warsaw’s story. To soak in the extravagances of Poland’s imperial years, then Łazienki Park is essential, as is a visit to the Wilanów Palace: frequently nicknamed ‘the Polish Versailles’, the landscaped gardens are as unmissable as the former royal chambers. Finally, tap into the very essence of the Polish soul by visiting the new Vodka Museum on the right side of town.

WWII

Memories of WWII still hang heavy.

Learn about the 1944 Warsaw Uprising at The Rising Museum: it’s deservedly rated as among the most important cultural institutions in the country.

Lesser known, the Old Town’s ‘Heritage Centre’ documents the destruction of the city, while three separate museums, Pawiak, Szucha and Katyń, cover equally somber chapters in Poland’s dark history.

JEWISH WARSAW

Though largely flattened, the former Jewish Ghetto contains numerous memorials, among them the Umschlagplatz monument marking the spot where trains departed for the gas chambers of Treblinka. The one synagogue that survived (Twarda 6) is the center of local Jewish life, while the innovative Polin museum covers all aspects of this nation’s complex and often fraught Jewish history.

Learn more in exchange for zilch by hooking up with: freewalkingtour.com

COMMUNISM

A full tour of Stalin’s Palace of Culture is a must: the basements (protected from rodents by a team of feline guardians) are wild and the viewing terrace unimpeachable. Check the more ambient side to Communism in the Neon Museum and then pencil in a visit The Museum of Life Under Communism: it’s tiny, but humorous, eccentric and highly informative.

While you’re there, squeeze into a knackered militia wagon and take one of their commie-themed tours.

Equally weird, check out a former nuclear bunker by visiting the once top secret Obiekt Alfa (obiektalfa.pl).

Lastly, take a look at what’s on at Dom

Wonder amid romping kids and whirring machines in the Copernicus Science Centre and after, visit the university library to explore the stunning rooftop garden – it’s like something from another cosmos.

The Museum of Modern Art is a short walk away while across the water, the state-of-the-art National Stadium conducts regular tours and thrills both stadium nerds and football fans alike. Back to Warsaw’s left bank, and the fountain park between the river and the Old Town impresses with its dazzling weekend light shows – enjoy it while you can, the ‘season’ ends late September.

ART

Serious art lovers flock to the National Museum for its determined presentation of art through the ages. The Zachęta, the Modern Art Museum and CSW are more alternative with captivating exhibitions that excite non-conformists. That said, some of the city’s best art is found on its walls: Praga and Muranów are particularly known for their large format wall murals.

PEOPLE

The watchful shadow of Chopin, the city’s favorite son, looms large across Warsaw: the museum dedicated to his memory amazes by the breadth of its scope, while the Chopin concerts held each Sunday in Łazienki are a local rite of passage (enjoy them till the end of September). If you’ve got time (and even if you haven’t), a day trip to his birthplace in Żelazowa Wola is a rewarding experience, not least in warmer months when the gardens are ripe for exploration. Onto other local greats, the Marie Curie Museum in New Town does a splendid job of remembering the world’s most famous female science boffin. warsawinsider.pl

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Insider Finds

TRIPPING THE LIGHT FANTASTIC

Dubbed ‘the lightest map in the world’, the Crumpled City series has changed the game beyond reproach: weighing 20 grams and made from indestructible, water-resistant material, the killer trick is their ability to conveniently scrunch into pockets and survive without consequence. Designed by Emanuele Pizzolorusso, and produced by the Italian firm Palomar, the maps have become cult items that effectively remove the stigma of looking like a dorky tourist. Brilliantly detailed, the one caveat is the shortlist of sights: originally released a few years back, their tips for Warsaw include a number of venues that have subsequently closed. Nonetheless, it’s a must-have accessory for the modern traveler – buy yours from independent bookstores such as Bęc Zmiana (Hala Gwardii & Mokotowska 65) or Radio Telewizja (Andersa 29).

112 Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2018

PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

No more looking like Clark Griswold! The Crumpled City map series have re-shaped the way we go sightseeing…