Warsaw Insider July 2018 #263

Warsaw The Capital’s Original City Magazine Since 1996

JULY 2018

263 07/2018

INDEKS 334901 ISSN:1643-1723

#

zł.10

(VAT 8% included)

Day & Night: The Riverfront Vodka Museum: A World First!

Grand Launch: Raffles Hotel Travel: Kraków

ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER AQUAZZURA ALEXANDRE BIRMAN ALEXANDRE BIRMAN ANYA HINDMARCH BALMAIN AQUAZZURA BURBERRY BALMAIN BUSCEMI BUSCEMI CASADEI CASADEI CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN CHRISTIANELIE LOUBOUTIN SAAB SAAB FRANCESCO ELIE RUSSO FRANCESCO RUSSO GIANVITO ROSSI GIANVITO ROSSI HERVE LEGER HERVE LEGER ISABEL MARANT ISABELKENZO MARANT KENZO MAISON MICHEL KOTUR MARC JACOBS LORO PIANA MANOLO BLAHNIK MAISON MICHEL MR & MRS ITALY MANOLO BLAHNIK ONETEASPOON ONETEASPOON SELF – PORTRAIT SELF – PORTRAIT TOD’S TOD’S TORY BURCH BURCH VICTORIA TORY BECKHAM VICTORIA BECKHAM ZIMMERMANN YVES SALOMON

tel.: 228277099, www.Moliera2.com

editorial INFRONT

Editor-in-chief Alex Webber

4 Take a Number 6 News 8 Take a Building:

insider@warsawinsider.pl Art Director Kevin Demaria insider@warsawinsider.pl

Europejski Hotel 10 Interview: Architecture: WXCA

Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com Contributors: Stuart Dowell Michał Miszkurka Ed Wight

FEATURES Wisła: By Day Wisła: By Night Wisła: Wilanów Travel: Kraków

16 20 24 2 6

Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com ey Account Manager K Agata Sicińska asicinska@valkea.com

EAT!

ey Account Manager K Joanna Chmielewska jchmielewska@valkea.com

Supperlardo The Cool Cat TR 34 Review: Street Food 36 Roundup: Ice Cream

DRINK! 71 Review:

I

n some respects, watching Poland’s national football team sink on the world stage reminded me of going to the cinema to watch Titanic: you just knew all along how the big show would end. Likewise, you knew that the drama would be met with tears, sorrow and that despondent dejection that’s twinned with defeat. But Warsaw moves on – it’s seen worse, after all. So having stared gloomily into its pint for about a day, it’s business as normal. Or actually, it’s more a case of no business as normal: with summer edging towards its apogee, you can already feel the holidays around the corner.

For that reason, this issue we’ve followed the rest of the city out of the office and onto the riverfront – once again, it’s on the capital’s rebuilt Wisła that you’ll find all life gathers. Beyond that, we take a look at the epic new Polish Vodka Museum, explore the city’s street food scene and jump on a train to head down to Kraków. The month, you see, didn’t turn out too bad after all.

Here’s to July and more of the same…

Miejsce Chwila 72 Opening: Vodka Museum 74 Coffee Culture: Cold Brew

DO! 91 Review:

Future Antiques 92 Where to Watch: World Cup 2018 94 Events 96 Museums 109 Guide: Essentials 110 Map 112 Insider Finds

2

Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl on the cover Like everyone else in town, we’ve gone weak for the Wisła this month – see p. 16 (Illustration by Michał Miszkurka)

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2018

ey Account Manager K Karolina Zielonka kzielonka@valkea.com Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com Subscription 12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland.

Orders can be placed through: insider@warsawinsider.pl Printed by Zakład Poligraficzny TECHGRAF Tel. (17) 225-28-69

VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies. All information ©2018 Warsaw Insider.

PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT

33 Review:

3 2 Review:

JULY 2018

BURBERRY CANADA GOOSE CASADEI CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN MEN FAY GIANVITO ROSSI KENZO MONCLER MR & MRS ITALY ONETEASPOON RALPH LAUREN TOD’S TORY BURCH VALENTINO BURBERRY CHILDREN DSQUARED2 KIDS KENZO KIDS MONCLER KIDS

number

PHOTOGRAPH BY AGATA KUBIS/OKO.PRESS

take a

7

The number of times Pl. Zbawiciela’s rainbow was attacked before its eventual dismantlement in 2015…

Three years after Pl. Zbawiciela’s iconic rainbow installation was removed, a temporary replacement found itself unveiled on the eve of last month’s annual Equality Parade. Created with

4

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2018

the support of Ben & Jerry’s, the installation utilized light and water to generate a water hologram that illuminated the square for several hours. “Our message,” stated organizers, “is that love is love: we want to bring as many people into the LGBTI movement as possible over the coming years.”

Attracting a crowd of thousands – as well as a heavy police presence – June’s rainbow was a short-lived throwback to what many view as Pl. Zbawiciela’s hipster heyday. Built to celebrate Poland’s membership of the EU, the

original rainbow stood in the center of the square from 2012 till 2015.

Composed of 20,000 artificial flowers, the 26-meter wide arc faced repeated arson attacks, most famously when it was torched during the nationalist rioting that marred Poland’s Independence Day celebrations in 2013. Denounced by critics as ‘a symbol of deviancy’, news of its brief return quickly went viral across the globe with many hailing the resurrection of an ‘unbreakable’ rainbow as a victorious triumph over Poland’s far right extremists.

3.1 Philip Lim — Attico — Rodarte — Paul Andrew — Justine Clenquet — Nina Kastens ­Jonathan Simkhai — D’ESTREE — ­ RIXO London

a unique shopping experience

www.lui-store.com Mokotowska 26 Warsaw

News

Plans for a mixed-use complex comprised of 272 cargo containers have been revealed by Jakub Szczęsny, an architect best known for designing the skinniest building in the world – the so-called Keret House found in the district of Mirów. Covering a 10,000 sq/m plot on Chmielna 75, his proposal envisions space for food and beverage outlets, cultural events and workshops, as well as retail units occupied by domestic designers and upcoming brands. According to news sources, the project should be ready launch later this year.

NAMING RIGHTS Relations between the government and opposition-led City Hall have taken another knock after a court overturned the government’s order to change several street names in Warsaw as part of a ‘de-Communization’ plan. Back in November dozens of streets were rechristened, with the most highprofile incident seeing Al. Armii Ludowej (People’s Army Alley) renamed ul. Lecha Kaczyńskiego in honor of Jarosław Kaczyński’s brother (who died in the 2010 Smolensk air disaster). While PiS supporters interpreted the move as an overdue change, opponents of Poland’s populist leadership claim the episode is another example of the government’s systematic campaign to erode the power of the mayor’s office.

6

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2018

Here To Stay!

DWORZEC CENTRALNY PKP POWIŚLE P K P O C H O TA Three stations are set to come under the protection of the city’s conservator amid fears that they face irrevocable change as plans gather steam to update the train lines running through the capital. The stops – all designed

by Arseniusz Romanowicz – have been cited as signature examples of Warsaw’s post-modernist style and include PKP Powiśle, whose cosmic form was inspired by Soviet forays into space, and PKP Ochota, whose parabolic / hyperbolic entrance portal resembles a grounded kite. Completed in 1972 – just in time for Brezhnev’s visit to town – Dworzec Centralny completes the list.

PHOTOGRAPHS FROM TOP PRESS MATERIAL, SHUTTERSTOCK

Outside the Box

LUXURY APARTMENTS Are you looking for sophisticated luxury? Would you like to live in the heart of Cracow next to Wawel Castle but enjoy peace and quiet? Would you like to taste traditional Polish cuisine in an elegant, modern rendition?

Well, Kanonicza 22 is the ideal place for you!

Let us spoil you and make your visit in Cracow truly unforgettable.

Ranked third on „World’s most romantic hotel” list.

Among our guests were: Jim Carrey, James Caviezel, Benedict Cumberbatch, Roman Polanski, Andrzej Wajda, Hans Zimmer... and many more.

w w w.kanonicza22.com

Attractive rates for direct reservation guests!

One Of A Kind

Re-energized following a magnificent six-year refit, the Europejski Hotel reopened in June to widespread acclaim…

8

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2018

I

mmediately installed as Poland’s most distinguished hotel, the June launch of the Raffles Europejski Warsaw was the culmination of a meticulous renovation that saw no expense spared.

But so much more than just another sumptuous hotel, its inauguration marked the return of an iconic building that has often been at the forefront of the trials and triumphs experienced by Warsaw.

Originally opened in 1857, Henryk’s Marconi’s NeoRenaissance design for the Europejski was complemented by lavish interior touches by his son, Karol, and his nephew, Ferrante. Impressing from its inception, people traveled from far and wide to enjoy the cooking of Józef Wysakowski, the former chef to Spain’s Queen Isabel, and the hotel was reputed to be among the most elegant in the Tsarist Empire. Refusing to stand still, further improvements were made to coincide with its 50th anniversary; partly goaded by the opening of the Bristol across the road, the upgrade

included the introduction of sound-proofed doors, electric elevators and telephone booths.

The stars of the day flocked there (among them, the avant garde painter Witkacy and actress Helena Modrzejewska, a.k.a.

Poland’s most beautiful woman), and the Europejski’s glittering New Year’s Eve parties found themselves immortalized in print having featured in The Doll, a 19th century classic that has come to be regarded as the greatest literary work in the history of Poland.

Rechristened the Europäisches in 1939, the Nazi occupation saw it designated as Nur für Deutsche and for the following five years its corridors clicked to the jackboots of visiting officers. Heavily damaged during the 1944 Warsaw Uprising, it reopened as a hotel in 1962, a pale shadow of what it once was.

Nonetheless, the lack of competition saw it maintain its reputation as the city’s top hotel, and as such the big names continued to check-in.

Of the ‘slebs that lodged

at the post-war Europejski, Marlene Dietrich was one of the first with the chanteuse snootily complaining that the lift wasn’t large enough for her four-meter fur – something of a calamitous trip, her visit was to get even worse when a cat strayed onto the stage during her performance at the Palace of Culture, an event that led to the singer promising never to return to Poland. Next came The Rolling Stones, with their landmark gigs prompting riots around town. According to legend, their press conference at the Europejski only went ahead following a last-minute bribe, while other anecdotes claim they finished their first night in Poland drinking vodka alone but for three prostitutes for company in the hotel bar.

Of course, not all high-profile visits were as chaotic, and one of the hotel’s prouder moments came in 1970 when Willy Brandt signed a declaration officially normalizing relations between Poland and Germany. Soon after, the West German Chancellor would send further shockwaves across the world by dropping to his knees in front of the Jewish Uprising Monument in Muranów.

For the Europejski, however, the years that followed brought only gloom, a decline finally halted when a 2005 court ruling returned it to its rightful pre-war owners. Working in tandem with Raffles, the resulting restoration has seen the hotel become a benchmark in luxury and a showcase of the finest Polish art and craftsmanship. At long last, the next chapter in the glorious history of the Europejski is ready to be written.

WIKICOMMONS

Take a building

Interview

Building The Future

Taking the lead on some of the biggest architectural projects of recent times, few studios have done more to shape the future of Warsaw than WXCA. Partner Marta Sękulska-Wrońska and architect Anna Dobek talk about the issues facing the capital…

WI: Everyone can feel it: Warsaw is enjoying a special moment in its history – what makes this an exciting city to work in?

WXCA: Both Warsaw’s energy and its sense of constant transformation strongly influence how we work and who we are.

The city’s undergoing a significant change, and it’s great that its residents have become a real and active part of this process: you see them taking a genuine role in architectural debates, competitions and consultations, and we think that’s helped build a greater sense of community. People

10

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2018

have realized they can shape the city’s future.

Are there any challenges you’ve found that are specific to Warsaw?

Being an active participant in the city’s transformation is a heavy responsibility: it’s where our grandparents lived and it’s where our children will grow-up.

Therefore, designing in Warsaw isn’t just a professional challenge for us, it’s a personal mission. Of course, that can feel a little overwhelming at times, but there’s nothing more fulfilling that being part of all the changes.

Regeneration often leads to gentrification: what solutions can architects implement to create a cohesive city that works for everyone?

Gentrification is a live, progressing problem that Warsaw now faces. Its complexity requires action on many levels: urban planning, city policy, architectural design and multi-disciplinary cooperation. We try to engage in projects that address these aspects and that allow us to contribute to the healthy development of the city in a way that’s responsible and meaningful. Our Warsaw projects like the

Vistula River Boulevards, the Streets of New Praga or the Museum Complex in the Citadel all include immense areas of open, widely accessible public space. We believe that by creating these versatile and inclusive common areas we can offer inhabitants places to meet, socialize and bond regardless of their status, wealth or age. This can help build stronger, more diverse, intimate communities that will not gentrify easily.

What makes a city ‘livable’?

Cities are diverse, stimulating environments that merge natural and humanbuilt landscapes. We’d like to see a proper balance to them. That’s a subtle and very delicate area which we love to explore in our work: blurring the boundaries between natural and cultural, human and primal, private and public From an architectural point of view, where does Warsaw find herself?

It’s clearly visible that the city is undergoing a process of transformation both in terms of space and the people who live here. We are evolving into an openminded, versatile society and the city is reflecting this change beautifully.

Both the authorities and private investors are cooperating to create lively, popular public spaces, new museums, greener streets and friendly workplaces.

Consequently, Warsaw is growing to be a progressive, sustainable city that has a genuine understanding of its rich heritage and the irresistible energy to evolve. >>>

by Wilamowski Chłodna 15 has become the talk of the town. Trained in the world’s top Michelin starred restaurants by some of the best chefs around, Chef Arkadiusz Wilamowski has worked for Alain Ducasse at the three star Dorchester in London, at Gérald Passedat’s three star restaurant in Marseille and Pierre Gagnaire’s two star Sketch London.

The French and international menu features sophisticated technique, wholesome Polish ingredients, and an exceptional wine list. Placing an emphasis on seasonal, top quality ingredients, Wilamowski’s menu changes frequently to include such ingredients as fresh lobster – one of the chef’s favorite culinary items.

A degustation menu is available for those who wish to sample the chef’s full creativity.

CHŁODNA 15 BY WILAMOWSKI • UL. CHŁODNA 15, WARSAW • RESERVATION@CHLODNA15.PL • TEL. 730 737 644

Interview

Museum Complex (Citadel)

“The museum complex at the Warsaw Citadel will be a place for multi-dimensional contact with Polish history, a place for reflection and discussion, for acquiring knowledge and coming into contact with culture – a social hub. The area, restricted by the walls of the former fortress, was comprehensively developed as a spatially and functionally cohesive complex that has been fully integrated into the historical thread of the Museum.”

12

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2018

A D V E R TO R I A L

A Unique Place

For years the Klif Fashion House has been a favorite destination for fashionistas and lovers of high quality. It’s here you’ll find brands that are completely unique not just to Warsaw, but also Poland.

With over 100 boutiques to browse, Klif has an intimate atmosphere and welcoming cafes as well as well-lit and attractive interiors that are conducive to the causal shopping experience: our music is even regularly intertwined with live piano performances.

A terrific meeting spot for both business and pleasure, our on-site cafes and restaurants offer a great selection of breakfast and lunch options.

See you at the Klif Fashion House on ul. Okopowa 58

Klif House of Fashion, Okopowa 58/72, Warszawa, Information/Concierge +48 22 531 45 00, klif.pl

For more information see: wxca.pl/projects The Vistula River Boulevards

(Between Most Świętokrzyski Bridge and Port Czerniakowski) “This design concept seeks to bring the city closer to the riverfront by creating varied-function facilities with easily accessible ground-floor services, creating the perfect backdrop for the riverfront gardens. The facilities in the garden belt will incorporate a food pavilion and an urban roof that will allow the riverfront recreational season to be extended.

The greenery structure, meanwhile, will emphasize the natural elements of this green urban oasis along its entire length.”

The Streets of Praga

(ul. Środkowa) “The main objective of our concept is the creation of a woonerf: a woonerf is a ‘living street’, a public realm, an urban courtyard, where pedestrians, cyclists and road users can peacefully coexist. The inner courtyards that are so typical of Praga are often lacking in light or greenery: the design, therefore, aims to create an inner courtyard that would fulfil the function of a garden. The creation of this area carries with it the potential of being a resident-friendly area that is fully accessible to all kinds of social groups.”

14

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2018

16

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2018

Once an inconvenient gash running through the city, the Wisła of today has become an integral part of the city’s day-today life… BY ALEX WEBBER | PHOTOS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

#wislabyday

PA R K Ś W I Ę T O K R Z YS K I

a KANAŁ

cross Europe, the world even, cities are reclaiming their rivers, thrusting them to the fore to act as their calling card and sign-off. Slow off the blocks, Warsaw too has joined the fray. But where once you would have had the impression of a city playing catch-up, today the Polish capital has been heralded as a leader and innovator when it comes to the revival of its riverside.

Not, you must understand, that there was anything to revive. Once seen as little more than a muddy, slimy mess, the sheer dereliction of the Wisła has proved a blessing in disguise. Able to work from scratch, the blank slate handed to architects has ensured that ensuing developments have been conducted with the latest technical knowledge and been largely unhampered by existing concerns. “You won’t find boulevards anywhere declared P Ielse,” ASECZ Y Ń S K I Hanna Gronkiewicz-Waltz during the unveiling of one section. “Not on the Tiber, the warsawinsider.pl

17

NEIGHBORHOOD WISŁA RIVER Thames or the Seine – this is one of the best promenades in Europe, possibly even the world.”

Though dubious to the outsider, the Mayor’s outlandish claim was by no means hot air.

Focusing on the left flank of the Wisła, the stepby-step program hasn’t just brought the river back to the people, but also the people back to the river. It hasn’t always been plain sailing. Plagued by missed deadlines and mysterious delays, the development at times has felt painfully slow.

Ultimately, however, it’s proved a masterstroke of both governance and design.

Yet while the nocturnal angle is perhaps the most celebrated (does Warsaw really dance anywhere else come the summer?), it’s during daytime that all those efforts really shine the brightest. More than just a party piece, it’s an area bristling with sculptures, fountains, art and exhibitions. For the culturally inclined, there’s even a reading room to boot.

Though the pace and pulse of life runs slower during daylight, it’s the versatility of Warsaw’s revamped river that has become its primary quality. Notable for its diverse range of attractions – from trampolines and wakeboarding to galleries and film – it’s biggest success has been its accessibility to all: old, young, rich, poor: no mean feat in a city traditionally divided by the haves and have nots.

And just to make it crazy, cross to the other side to discover sheer, wild nature in its most captivating form. Of the city’s more enduring urban myths is the tale of a Japanese delegation asking the Mayor how much the city had spent creating the effect of an untamed riverbank in its full natural glory. “What amazing landscaping,” one delegate is said to have added. Though purely apocryphal, it’s a story that says much: both about the increased efforts to protect the right bank, and the full extent of the Wisła’s true glory.

18

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2018

warsawinsider.pl

19

20

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2018

With Warsaw’s night owls making their seasonal migration to the Wisła, the Insider plunges headfirst into the waters of debauchery… BY ALEX WEBBER | PHOTOS BY ED WIGHT

#wislabynight

d

isregarding the fact that it read suspiciously like a listicle generated through a quick bit of internet research, when The Guardian named Warsaw as having one of the ten best European riverside scenes in 2016 it was seen as a reinforcement of what many were already thinking: that something special was afoot. But if the riverfront was a hot topic two years ago, today it’s even hotter.

Certainly, it’s a far cry from the old days – blighted by petty crime, outbreaks of boozy violence and general disorder, the Wisła at the start of the millennium was a great place to drink… if you liked a punch-up. Lined with rickety sheds selling plastic pints to bull-necked goons, a nadir was hit when a Japanese tourist found himself tossed into the water by hostile natives. A year or so later, a decapitated body was retrieved from underneath a barge.

When City Hall finally clamped down on riverfront drinking it was seen as an inevitable reaction to an insoluble problem.

Click forward fifteen years and the contrast couldn’t be sharper. If once the Wisła was a lawless danger zone, today the biggest problem posed is the hangover the next day. Sparked by the stage-bystage redevelopment of the left bank promenade, bars and clubs have popped up like pimples making the western side the place to be once the mercury climbs. However, while signs of this revival were already brewing a few years back, this year has seen a rapid acceleration in terms of variation.

By in large, that rests on the shoulders of The Tides, a swanky development to the south of Most

warsawinsider.pl

21

NEIGHBORHOOD WISŁA RIVER

Poniatowskiego. Completed late last year, the investment hasn’t just added to the number of prestige apartments in the capital, but shaken its nightlife to the core. That much becomes apparent visiting Sen. Perched on the top floor it’s unlikely you’ll find a higher density of pretty things anywhere in Central Europe. Filling a dual role of cocktail bar and club, watching the sun set over the National Stadium from the rooftop terrace is one of those life affirming moments where everything feels good. “Come back later,” promises the barman, “and it’ll get even better.” We’ll see about that…

Leaving, and its northwards that we head.

Streaked in outrageous shades of candy floss pink, the evening sky is the perfect match for the pre-party mood. With the ban on outdoor drinking rescinded earlier this year, the terraced steps of the riverfront boulevards have been hijacked by hundreds, nay thousands, of youngsters swigging from cans and passing around bottles; as they do, the music from dozens of competing sound systems merges into one to form a solid wall of relentless beats.

The atmosphere gains strength with each passing minute, seemingly peaking around Plac Zabaw: lined-up like sitting ducks, a couple of dozen food stalls do a brisk trade keeping the drinkers fed. But while we eat well, to drink well we must push on to Barka Wynurzenie. Moored in the shadow of the Copernicus Center, this boat is one of few venues on the strip to deal artisan beers that are actually worth drinking; but deterred by the lack of seats, not to mention the gentle dizziness of being on a boat, we opt for a U-turn and a return to Sen. But before that can happen, more drinks are to be had on the ground floor of The Tides. Sat next door to each other, Winsky and Zachodni Brzeg offer a well-to-do atmosphere that’s casual, relaxed and removed from the intensity of the freefor-all in front. Sen, on the other hand, has reached an impossible zenith, and reentering we are met by a tidal wave of gorgeousness. Wall-to-wall with George Clooney lookalikes, off-duty celebrities and catwalk glamor pusses, the carefree hedonism is like something from a film – only tonight, you’re one of the stars. Sod the bank account, bring me champagne.

Floating down from this cloud, the decision is made to go south. Within minutes, we’ve entered the jaws of carnage. Presenting our final challenge of the night is Cud nad Wisłą, a legendary beach club attracting all walks of life. Opting to shortcut the line to the toilets I head into the bushes only to step into something that’s brown and sticky and possibly human. Immediately I vomit. The photographer fares only a little better: sucked into the havoc of a dance tent, he’s last seen helplessly drowning in a sea of flailing limbs. With highs and lows aplenty, it’s just your typically messy finish to a night by the river.

22

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2018

warsawinsider.pl

23

AWAY FROM THE

MAINSTREAM

There’s more to the Wisła than dusk-till-dawn parties. Head down Wilanów for serene, empty beaches and tranquil peace of mind…

BY STUART DOWELL

W

ilanów: we all know it for its charming, watercolor streets that sweep towards the stunning Baroque palace and its adjoining gardens, but that’s as far as most visitors get – yet the river down this way offers beaches and views that are hard to beat. If Wilanów is the royal district, then the Wisła is its monarch.

The whole riverbank is worth exploring, but the two beaches in Warsaw’s southern precincts are the main attractions. The first, Wilanów Zawady Beach, lies almost on a straight line extending beyond Wilanów Palace. For our trip, we stocked up on the way with snacks and drinks at the new shopping center on ul.

Vogla that services the burgeoning villa district between Wilanów lake and the river. Don’t buy sausages for grilling though as the whole beach area is a protected nature zone (more on that later) and barbeques are banned – a point that’s rigorously enforced.

Access to the beach requires scrambling over the flood defense wall, which is also a marvelous cycle path

24

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2018

that hugs the river for almost its entire length in the city.

After a short, pleasant walk through a wooded flood plain, we emerge onto a breathtaking expanse of blond sand broken only by thickets of poplar and willow. Stillness and quiet contrast with the relentless charge of the river northward, its incessant gush blocked only by sandbars that have formed small islands that can be reached by a short paddle. Looking out from the tip of one, only the huge chimney of the Sierkierki power station reminds us that we are still in the capital. Look the other way, and the Wisła snakes its way south.

Visiting on a typically hot Sunday afternoon in summer, the beach is popular but not crowded: a dog chases a stick cast by its shirtless owner, while an angler tries his luck on the jetty. In the distance, a younger group parties and drinks beer, but they’re too far away to be considered a nuisance. Finding a nice spot near the tree line, we spread out some towels and my wife reads a few pages of her book while I take my son to look for minnows.

Here, the beach is split in two by a concrete jetty with

the right-hand side traditionally reserved for nudists.

Leaving my wife and son to enjoy their sandwiches, I headed over grimly to search for another type of lunchbox. On this occasion though, there’s no funny business going on. Have the naturists moved on? I would hope not, if for no other reason than the fact that they’re normally among the most responsible beachgoers, taking their litter home with them as a matter of honor.

This whole stretch of the Wisła down to Konstancin became a nature reserve in 1998 mainly to protect the nesting and feeding sites of rare water birds. Some of the birds lay their eggs on the beach and cover them with a thin layer of sand, so barbeques and bonfires are out of the question as well as doing anything that disturbs the environment. It wasn’t the nesting season when we were there, and the spring migration birds were still on their peregrinations, but some gulls and terns were visible busying themselves with household chores, adding to the sense of isolated bliss.

Twenty minutes by bike further south is the beach at

Czyszyca, part of the Świder islands nature reserve. It’s hard to find the path but when you do, head left to reach the widest section of the beach. Bigger, wilder, quieter and more beautiful than its neighbor in Wilanów, it’s truly astonishing that a place like this exists within a few wing beats of the city. The pillows of soft sand and mini dunes trick you into thinking you are 1,000 miles further south. A weather-aged fallen tree is the only focal point throughout this luxurious, golden carpet.

It’s late in the afternoon now and apart from a couple of sun worshippers we are alone. We find some freshwater shells that suggest the Wisła’s chronic pollution might be improving, but we don’t risk bathing properly – up to our ankles is enough. Happy but tired, we pack up thinking of our stomachs. After a kilometer, unexpectedly and like a desert oasis the Tandem Bar appears on the riverside road to Wilanów. The cold beer does what cold beer should and the grilled fish is a tasty surprise. As people munch and sip and the sky begins its evening color display, there’s a palpable feeling of a day well spent. warsawinsider.pl

25

A KRAKING

26

TIME

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2018

HOME & AWAY

Trains run frequently with the Pendolino whizzing to Kraków in just under two and a half hours. Bought on the day, first class is a whopping zł. 230 though ample discounts are there to be had when booked in advance. Alternatively, there’s a few older trains that aren’t that much slower but a hell of a lot cheaper – scout about on pkp. pl for the option that suits.

GOOD

BED & BOARD

There are times you suspect that Kraków has more hotels than the rest of the world put together: frankly, the choice is immense and covers every angle. For this trip, the Insider hit the bull’s eye and stayed at Kanonicza 22 (see p. 30), an extravagant residence that climbs the highest peak of special. For wallets that are a little lighter, the Indigo is the definition of on-trend, eclectic luxury: all yours for less than zł.

500. Inching down the scale, the new Puro Kazimierz is a chic, design-forward spot that’s a great deal for under 300 zeds.

For more independent travelers, Parkside Apartments have a host of modern, highend flats with some going as far to feature a roof-top jacuzzi and private sauna.

HIT OR MISS?

Poland’s biggest tourist trap?

Certainly! But there’s a reason Kraków’s cobbled streets sink each summer under the collective weight of the visiting planet. A city of bewitching beauty and intriguing history, few places on earth possess the same magic potion that makes Kraków so special…

BY ALEX WEBBER | PHOTOS BY ED WIGHT

We risk being charged with treason for saying so, but save Wawel Castle & Cathedral for another time. The ancient home of Poland’s monarchs, this magisterial complex is as spellbinding inside as it is out – but the height of summer is not the right time to visit. Look, it’s not going anywhere: save it for the low-season. Having chalked off the Old Town, visitors gravitate towards Kazimierz, the atmospheric former Jewish district which was at the center of the city’s post-communist creative resurgence.

Riddled with independent galleries, antique stores and cafes, it represents the very essence of Kraków’s arty soul. Illuminated to showstopping effect, the Bernatek Footbridge connects Kazimierz to Podgórze, an upcoming area that’s best-known as the one-time home of the Jewish Ghetto.

Here, life under the Nazis is remembered at the Pharmacy Under the Eagle and the Schindler Museum.

STATE OF THE ART

There’s said to be around 2.5 million works of art in the city, with the most famous found in the National Museum: with only five other cities in the world touting their own Leonardo da Vinci, it’s no surprise to learn that the museum’s Lady With An Ermine is regarded as one Kraków’s biggest boasts. A complete departure from

warsawinsider.pl

27

TRAVEL KRAKÓW

head deep into the Liban Quarry to find the rotting vestiges of Spielberg’s set for Schindler’s List. With filming banned at Płaszów, the director used this spot to build a replica of the concentration camp.

Though eaten away by nature, remnants have survived, including a pathway made from fake Jewish tombstones. It’s a must for urban explorers.

THE UGLY DUCKLING

Built on the instruction of Stalin, Nowa Huta became one of only two cities in the world constructed entirely from scratch.

Using the socialist realist style sanctioned at the time, the results were more dystopian than utopian. Now absorbed into Kraków, a walk through its colonnaded boulevards teleports you to the times Big Brother meant something even worse than reality TV. At Nowa Huta’s heart, the Museum of Poland Under Communism does a cracking job of capturing the paranoia of the time. For a more personal approach, book Crazy Guides to burp around town in a Trabant whilst listening to anecdotes from the time. Tours conclude by poking around a grisly, old apartment preserved in time.

THE BIG BUY

traditional forms, MOCAK is by far the most captivating contemporary gallery in the country: even those with an aversion to art are thrilled by its utterly madcap exhibitions. Street art, meanwhile, has boomed; to know where to go, check the interactive map at: guide-krakow.com/street-art

TOP OF THE PILE

Kraków has five man-made hills to conquer, the eldest (and tallest) of which is the 16-meter high Krakus Mound. Thought to mark the final resting spot of the city’s mythical founder, sunsets here are a strangely spiritual experience. Close by,

28

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2018

If you’re a bookworm, it’s worth heading to Kraków for no other reason that to browse the shelves of Massolit, a used Englishlanguage bookstore whose shelves creak under the weight of over 20,000 tomes – intelligent titles focusing on gender issues, Jewish history and political studies are a forte, though lighter reads are available.

For upscale fashion, Kraków’s version of Vitkac is Pasaż 13 (it’s owned by the same family, in fact), a stunning department store set in a restored tenement featuring uncovered frescoes and excavated finds.

As for something alcoholic? Head thee to Szambelan, an enchanting little shop selling homemade elixirs and tinctures inside a space that looks like Dumbledore’s workshop. The ‘try before your buy’ philosophy ensures shopping ain’t never been this fun.

THE FOOD FRONT

Improving. The Old Town is still heavily rigged with restaurants aimed with one-time visitors in mind, but there are diamonds in the rough. Recommended by the Michelin guide, Pod Nosem has a modern Polish-European menu with cleverly adorned plates served in an

atmospheric dual-level space: if it’s raining, head to the medieval cellars to dine amid tapestries and devilish statues. On the opposite end of the scale, the Irish-run Milk Bar Tomasza serves hearty, budget Polish classics (and a British breakfast to be reckoned with!) with ingredients sourced daily from the local farmers’ market. Atavistic urges can be satisfied at the Ed Red steakhouse and Rzeźnia, with the latter specializing in boards of ribs that max out at 2.5 kilos. Elsewhere, Kazimierz has a wealth of neo-hipster inspired spots such as Zazie Bistro and Zenit Miodowa 19. Pushed to name a fave, that’ll be Hamsa, a self-styled ‘hummus and happiness restobar’ with an enclosed garden clad in greenery. Most of all, don’t miss Tytano and its multifarious range of ethnic options.

the nation’s ‘going out’ revolution. Housed in a derelict factory complex, find a maze of bars, restaurants, clubs and hangouts that operate way into the night. Hallmarked by its good-natured pandemonium, let an evening here include a trip to Veganic for fab vegan dishes, craft beer at the 25-tap Weźże Krafta, and cocktails at Lastriko - but that’s the tip of the iceberg. Think Nocny Market, Poznańska and the Wisła, then multiply the atmosphere and choice by the power of a hundred. Seeing is believing: go there.

SOMETHING WET

Stick to the Old Town and you’ll end up drinking shoulder-to-shoulder with Brits leering about “the tits on that barmaid”. Instead, look a little further afield. Despite its ongoing gentrification, the former Jewish district of Kazimierz is honeycombed with great evening options. Some are superior to others, and while Singer, Esweria and Alchemia have been well and truly outed by the guidebooks, they retain a creaky, cobwebbed charisma that’s representative of the area’s Bohemian heyday. Housed in a prayer hall decorated with peeling frescoes and glam chandeliers, Hevre has emerged as one of the livelier nights in the district.

A riverfront legend, Forum Przestrzenie is noted for long summer parties and a quirky location inside an abandoned Soviet-era hotel, while Mercy Brown frequently features in polls that rank the country’s best cocktails: marketed as an inter-war speakeasy (book your table ahead of time), our visit saw the coolest kids in town knocking elbows with bluerinse oldies and ‘larger than your average mammoth’ transatlantic tourists. Seemingly democratic in their door policy, the curious mix of drinkers does wonders for the overall ambiance (Warsaw door selectors: take note).

MISS IT & WE’LL KILL YOU!

If, likes us, you revel in the capital’s superiority over Poland’s second city, then prepare to feast on humble pie. In the shape of Tytano, Kraków has what’s hand’s down the most epic example of

warsawinsider.pl

29

TRAVEL KRAKÓW

The Royal Treatment Set in the shadow of Wawel Castle, Kraków’s fanciest stay opens its doors to the Insider…

f

or the sake of transparency I’ll be straight from the start: the Insider didn’t pay for its digs, not one single bean. Sometimes, that happens. Call it an occasional perk of the job.

Usually, though, such offers are refused due to some major deterrent that aborts the whole operation. In this case, none was forthcoming. Brief and to the point, negotiations went something like this.

Kanonicza 22: “Hi Insider, fancy a weekend in Kraków?”

Me: “Sure, but what do you expect in return…”

Kanonicza 22: “Nothing. If you don’t like us, don’t write about us.”

Me: “See you in three hours.”

And that was that. In many ways it was a sly old trick, for to stay in Kanonicza and then keep schtum would be a gross disservice deserving of

30

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2018

death. Extraordinary in every respect, it’s the kind of indulgence you remember for years – after all, it’s not every day you flick through the in-room guestbook to find it signed by Benedict Cumberbatch. Or Jim Carrey, for that matter.

Squirreled to one end of Kanonicza, a curling, cobbled street that opens onto Wawel, describing it as a hotel would be missing the mark. This isn’t so much a hotel as it is a highly personalized residence finished to stately standard. It’s fitting, therefore, that the three suites have blue blooded names that hint to what’s inside. Myself, I’m booked for the Royal Apartment, a fantastical space that’s all show and spice.

Embellished with lavish Persian carpets and plush scarlet trimmings it’s easy to imagine Cumberbatch sat here in character and learning his lines. Summoning my inner Sherlock I do the same, pacing the room

Embellished with lavish Persian carpets and plush scarlet trimmings it’s easy to imagine Cumberbatch sat here in character and learning his lines repeating catchphrases from Holmes.

But the room is anything but elementary, and such is its size I’m soon playing detective to locate a misplaced bag. Full of dim, distant corners and glinting decanters, the impression is of being in your own private fiefdom. To acclimatize, I spend thirty minutes prowling every nook and exploring all the details – delicious in its decadence, everything you touch derives sensory pleasure. Finally, like a sultan, I settle on a wood-carved four-poster bed, my eyes gazing off into a living room decorated with restored polychrome ceilings dating from 1688. When sleep comes, it’s of the deepest variety, my dreams leading me through strange, surreal lands in which I’m the King.

New day, new room. Topping out this historic tenement is the Emperor Suite, a chic, open-plan apartment with one wall given over to a collection

of original bits of 14th century masonry. Contrasted against the almost mystical darkness of the Royal Suite, it’s a contemporary, airy space that feels positively ritzy. For all that, absolutely nothing prepares you for the upstairs extension. Rolling back at the press of a button, the angled roof retracts to reveal an outdoor terrace with a bubbling jacuzzi surrounded by tall candle lanterns. It’s a moment of pure theater that leaves you quite staggered. In the blink of an eye I’ve become Kanye West. All of a sudden, evening plans are placed on hold: who needs Kraków when you have Kanonicza? Even in a city weighed under by noteworthy lodgings, the character of this place is completely unparalleled: not just by anywhere else in the city, but the country as well.

Kanonicza 22 ul. Kanonicza 22, kanonicza22.com warsawinsider.pl

31

H Par ig tn hl e ig r ht s

Nice To Meat You

Following in the footsteps of tradition, find Mięsny on the same spot as a legendary butcher’s store that once occupied this address some thirty years back. Like our predecessor, we place an onus on top quality meat, specializing in produce sourced from the finest Polish breeders and suppliers.

Also operating as a bistro, join us for lunch, dinner or just a snack: Paweł Suwała’s cooking is there to be enjoyed.

Mięsny Walecznych 64

NEWSFLASH! From the vegan perspective, the year belongs to Keboom: having already rolled-out successful ventures in Hala Gwardii and Hala Koszyki, the vegan kebab specialists have now dropped anchor in Mokotów with a brand new address at ul. Dąbrowskiego 15A.

Your Ticket To Japan

Born from our passion for Japanese cuisine, at Na Sushi we serve both classics as well as highly original compositions that have been refined to perfection. Alongside these are our soups which are famous for their authenticity. Whether you love Japanese food, or are simply seeking brave new tastes, at Na Sushi we won’t disappoint.

Na Sushi ul. Koszykowa 54, fb.com/nasushikoszykowa

32

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2018

EAT!

PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

MEAT OF THE MATTER

If mainline Chmielna still feels like your conventional tatty high street, then the courtyard that runs parallel offers a swift reprieve. Increasingly filled with bright, bold ventures, the addition of Supperlardo is further affirmation of its starry ambitions. Run as a side project by Mąka i Woda (quite literally – it’s right next door), it’s a stylish-looking spot that’s fresh, contemporary and even a little edgy: for evidence, refer to a mural designed by Swansky, a local big gun on the street art scene. As for the menu, that’s a riotously meaty romp that involves wood-fired hams, sandwiches composed of pork belly pastrami and salt-cured meats from Puławska and Mangalica pigs. Complementing them, find add-ons such as crisp baby carrots drizzled in ranch dressing as well as eco-minded bread that’s baked on-site. With orders taken at the counter, it’s a place that lifts the canteen concept to new, unseen heights: expect copycats to follow.

Supperlardo ul. Chmielna 13A, fb.com/Supperlardo/

warsawinsider.pl

33

Eat! Reviews THE PLACE

Interior-wise, you’re looking at a hip, edgy venue that offsets all the concrete colors with punches of contemporary art and waterfalls of greenery that tumble over the windows. The overt hipness is reflected by a crowd that’s heavy on tattoos, piercings and odd urban style: you know you’re somewhere cool.

THE FOOD

In a word, playful. Largely based on Korean cuisine, find Westernized versions of Asian classics: deliciously sticky chicken wings in hot gochochung sauce or more-ish soft-shell tacos with bulgogi sauce and water greens. More true to its roots, the kimchi is everything it should be: spicy, tart and pungent.

Not everything is a success. Our follow-up visit sees the appearance of underwhelming scallop tacos with a non-descript jalapeno mayo, and a wilting salad with broad beans and chanterelles.

Can you do better at home? Possibly.

Nonetheless, there’s enough to suggest it’s all an accidental blip.

Back to form, dessert, of which there’s only one, is daft, silly fun in the best possible sense: find a wedge of matcha ice cream drizzled with miso caramel and then squashed inside a mini donut.

Sweet, salty, hot, cold, it’s a pudding designed with Instagram in mind.

THE DRINKS

COOL FOR CATS

Spurred by the stonking success of their Powiśle venture, the Cool Cat team have crept into the center…

34

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2018

Exotic. Classics are available, but it’s the Asian-influenced cocktails that you need to look out for. Order, for example, the Elo Melo, a refreshing summer cooler that mixes rum and Malibu with yuzu, vanilla, coconut powder and homemade sorbet made with a Japanese melon liquor. Whoever thinks up the cocktails could do with a knighthood. Away from the hard stuff, drinks include basil & grapefruit lemonade, coconut water and Kombucha, a fermented tea-based drink with lemongrass and ginger.

OVERALL

Imperfections and inconsistencies exist, but these you let slide – if for no other reason than the knowledge that when it goes right then fireworks happen.

Engineered to make eating fun, The Cool Cat is the kind of spot you can’t help but enjoy. Leaving, it tends to be with return visits in mind.

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

The Cool Cat TR ul. Marszałkowska 8

The kind of spot you can’t help but enjoy. Leaving, it tends to be with return visits in mind warsawinsider.pl

35

Eat! Street Food

GRUB STREET

Hala Koszyki push boundaries again with the introduction of a new street food zone…

w

hen, one day, someone pauses to write a food history of Warsaw, you’d imagine Hala Koszyki would get a whole chapter – and maybe more. Opened in autumn, 2016, its launch unleashed a quake that ripped through the capital. Like nothing the city had seen before, this upscale food hall marked a new way of doing things. It changed everything.

People weren’t just eating and drinking

36

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2018

together, they were having the time of their lives doing so. Flushed with eateries – most casual, others a bit more la-di-da – Koszyki became the roaring hub of the capital’s social life. The commotion has not subsided.

Partly, that’s down to Koszyki’s ability to read demand and accept their mistakes: if something doesn’t work then they’ll find something that does. In May, that meant replacing an underperforming farmers’

market with a narrow indoor avenue flanked on each side by street food stalls. Acting as a super casual foil to their more upmarket units, starring roles have already been assumed by Ramyun, a Korean stall specializing in noodles and stuffed baguettes and Flamm, with its Alsatian-style crumpets.

Most of all though, it’s Keboom that’s nicked the headlines. If their vegan kebabs sound like a high-risk health hazard, they’re actu-

Hala Koszyki ul. Koszykowa 63, koszyki.com

And The Rest…

Slow Market

There are, it goes without saying, plenty of other food points on the riverfront, but none offer as much variation. Operating on weekends, find the area around Plac Zabaw surrendered to a couple of dozen open-air stalls specializing in, among other cuisines, Spanish, Korean, Georgian and Indian. Mixed into one pungent cloud, just the enticing aromas are reason enough to visit. (E2) Plac Zabaw, fb.com/placzabawnadwisla

Hala Gwardii

Housed in a red brick hall dating from the Tsarist era, Gwardii opens up as a sensory big bang of smell, taste, sight and sound. Framed by a market on one side, and food units on the other, it’s a catch-all social solution that shines the spotlight on independent vendors offering something new: raclette from the ultra-cool couple at Melt, skewers of meat from the gossipy gang at Brasil On The Plate, and Colombian-style sarnies from cheerful San Escobar. There’s more, of course, but you’ll need to investigate those yourself – doing so takes several visits, something that nobody minds at all. (C3) Pl. Mirowska 2, halagwardii.pl

Nocny Market

ally anything but. Folded inside soft, floury, ‘made in front of your eyes’ lavash, find nutritious seitan meat substitute packed alongside heaps of green chili or kimchi.

Meat or no meat, a growing number of converts (ourselves included) have recognized this as Warsaw’s best kebab.

Eaten at close quarters in a tight aisle that’s standing room only, the atmosphere of clatter and commotion is given an added impetus by Bokeh, a quirky store selling bio wines, alternate coffees and boutique cider from Polish farmhouse producers. If once you criticized Koszyki for being a little too polished and mainstream, then you’ll need to think again. Feeling original and exciting, this latest addition looks like one of the year’s great innovations.

Set on a disused train platform, this weekend hangout gets thronged with crowds clamoring over an ever-evolving line-up brings together not just food trucks, but quality restaurants hawking their specials from tiny stalls. More than just a hyper-cool collection of ethnic food vendors, the Nocny Market has become the place to get tattooed in front of leering strangers, stock up on artisan donuts, swag some indigo-colored Palace of Culture socks or simply boogie on down to DJs straight from the Golden Years of Hipster. Think good vibes, big beats and beery, blurry nights! (A5) ul. Towarowa 3 (Warszawa Główna Train Station)

Targ Śniadaniowy

You could well argue that it was Targ Śniadaniowy that originally kicked-off Warsaw’s street food revolution. Despite the name (which, if you don’t know, translates to mean The Breakfast Market), it’s more than just a morning feed. Running through the afternoon, this weekend legend is a little bit of everything: park picnic, food market, music space – you might even find someone to fix your two-wheeler.

Various locations, targsniadaniowy.pl warsawinsider.pl

37

EAT! Ice Cream

GAME OF CONES

As temperatures rise, so does Warsaw’s appetite for a cool-me-down. This month, the Insider’s ice cream experts pick out the top scoops in town…

38

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2018

Desserts Guide Chop Chop

Blanc Desir Although the choice is far from comprehensive, the quality is first rate: made using natural ingredients, everything they offers seems to hit the spot (if in doubt, look for hybrid choices such as their pineapple / kiwi / melon mix. This was the Insider’s undisputed champion of 2017!

(B1) ul. Stawki 2A Budka z Lodami On a sunny weekend you’ll find Saska’s longest queues building up outside this simple-looking street-side ice cream cabin. The frozen yogurt is the big hit. (H4) ul. Francuska 30

L o d y P ra w d z i w e

Limoni Canteri 1952

Ice Pot There’s still a long way to go, but Ice Pot have already emerged as the Insider’s top scoop of 2018. Choice is narrower than most, but the quality is something else. Operating as a stall at the top end of Hala Gwardii, top choices have thus far included a deliciously creamy cherry and a show-stealing strawberry with almond flakes. You’ll love it! (C3) Hala Gwardii

Nitro Lody Frozen with liquid nitrogen, just watching the process is enough to make customers feel like they’re part of Dexter’s Laboratory. Smoother than a pane of glass, the result sees super creamy classic tastes jazzed up with sprinkles of Lion bar, Gummi Bears and other such sweetness. ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów) & ul.

Piwna 4

Jednorożec What is it with Mokotów and ice cream?

A wide flavor choice, quality ingredients and a loving hand mark Jednorożec out on a quite competitive field. (D8) ul.

Narbutta 38

Roszki Although it looks a little budget-minded, Roszki have won hearts for an offer that’s especially strong on chocolate-based ice creams. The chocolate habanero comes with a fiery twist and a fan club that extends beyond Muranów’s geographic borders. That’s not all: further success has been recorded courtesy of their smashing Jägermeister ice cream. (B1) ul.

Andersa 37

Cafe Crystal Despite its somewhat generic look, Cafe Crystal transpires to be anything but ordinary. Specializing in Korean desserts, the ace in the pack is their choice of bingsu: a light but elaborate concoction of shaved ice and fruity toppings. (D5) ul.

Nowogrodzka 22

Limoni Canteri 1952 Limoni’s regular carousel of oddities has, in the past, included cucumber, carrot, beer and tomato. Further, they remain the only producer in Poland to sell specially adapted dog-friendly ice cream! various locations, lodziarnielimoni.pl

Chop Chop Blindingly brilliant Thai-style ice cream: pick up to three flavors, then watch them mashed and chopped together before being sprinkled with the toppings of your choice: Gummi Bears included! The production process does take time which can lead to queues – most agree that the wait times are worth it. (C3) Hala Gwardii

Lody Prawdziwe Hailed a couple of years ago by Gazeta Wyborcza as Warsaw’s top ice cream, Prawdziwe’s attitude to perfection cannot be faulted. Natural, artisanal ice creams and sorbet are produced using only high-quality, proven ingredients. In terms of excellence, they’ve got it licked. various locations, lodyprawdziwe.com

Dolce Lato Specializing in Italian-style gelato, it’s quite common to find people traveling across town to sample Dolce Lato’s treats. Check their ‘adult’ ice creams: the Prosecco is a dream. (E10) ul. Ursynowska 1

Melody One of the big success stories of recent months, Melody marry two vices together by serving up artisanal natural ice creams inside ‘bubble waffles’. Genius! various locations, melody.pl

Sucre Using the purest most natural ingredients available, Sucre have broadened their philosophy and become more adventurous than ever before: the results have seen new flavors debut, among them lemon/bergamot, vegan coconut not to mention alcoholic numbers such as mojito, absinth and pina colada! Various locations, sucre.pl Vegestacja Known as the vegan square mile on account of its proliferation of vegan restaurants and cafes, it’s no surprise to find a vegan gelato stop (‘vegelato’) opening in the area. This year, top marks have gone to creations such as mango lassi and raspberry & cardamon. (D5) Poznańska 26 warsawinsider.pl

39

EAT! Listings By in large, you can expect to pay between zł. 20-35 for starters, and zł.

35-70 for mains. Expect those prices to double in the case of the city’s fine dining venues. Those wishing to cut costs should seek out the weekday business lunch deals now offered by most restaurants. When tipping, 10-20% is considered polite though be aware of automatic service charges in some venues.

Home delivery by daily.pl

american 40 bakeries 40 balkan 40 british 42 burgers & street food 42 chinese 42 desserts 42 fine dining 44 french 46 georgian 46 greek & turkish 47 hungarian 47 indian 47 indonesian 48 international 48 italian 52 japanese & sushi 54 jewish 55 korean 55 latin & spanish 56 mexican 56 middle eastern 57 polish 58 scandinavian 64 seafood 64 specialty food shops 64 steak houses 65 thai 66 ukrainian 68 vegan 68 vietnamese 70

40

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2018

american

Facebook page. (C4) ul. Sienna 39, fb.com/ piekarnia.aromat

Champions Sports Bar While the concept and style look dated, there’s no faulting the attention to detail – with TVs positioned all over the place you won’t miss a kick. The heavy décor brings to mind the trans-Atlantic sports bars of the 90s, with glinting trophies, whirring machines, clacking pool tables and a cacophony of commentaries. Hell, there’s even a boxing ring. But you can’t criticize their consistency: the food is always onpoint, the staff are pro, while the generous floor plan makes it suitable for unwieldy groups of large and loud lads. (D5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 630 5119, champions.pl

Café Vincent Queues build quickly as locals line up to buy baguettes, cinnamon rolls, lemon croissants and beautiful pains au chocolat. But people don’t just head in then out, a small wine list and brilliant people spying opportunities cause many to hang around. (D3) ul. Nowy Świat 64

Hard Rock Café Instantly recognizable by the giant neon guitar outside, Hard Rock has a pierced staff of skater boys and rock girls and a menu that is, if nothing else, completely reliable. Peruse rock’n’roll swag that includes Joplin’s blouse, Prince’s guitar and Shakira’s pants. (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, hardrockcafe.pl

Paul Specializing in pastries, baguettes and other baked goods, this French chain have rapidly entrenched themselves in the capital following their debut last year.

Various locations, boulangeries-paul.com

Koko & Roy Spotlighting ‘New American Cuisine’, the thrust here is on comfort food, albeit several steps beyond what you’d rustle up at home: the Odds & Ends (deep fried pigs tails and chicken hearts tumbled into a big bowl and served with pickled red onions and a lash of sriracha aioli) are bold, unexpected and utterly delicious.

The work of an American / Polish husband and wife, Koko & Roy feels fun, innovative and pleasingly casual – a bit like visiting friends who really know how to cook. Much like visiting friends, alcohol too also plays its part: in this case, generous cocktails made to NYC specifications.

Take it all in inside a brill interior that’s all Sputnik lights, intriguing artwork and mustard-toned finishes. (D5) ul. Wilcza 43

bakeries Aromat That many consider this their favorite bakery says it all. French flour and an expert baker ensure brilliant results, while the lemon éclairs deserve their own

Charlotte While the fancy crowd isn’t to everyone’s liking, the atmosphere feels truly continental: even more so in warm weather when the terrace packs out. (D6) Al. Wyzwolenia 18 (enter from pl. Zbawiciela), bistrocharlotte.com

Rozbrat 20 Bakery & Wine Corner Best known for fathering Butchery & Wine, Daniel Pawełek makes his mark on Powiśle with the launch of Rozbrat 20, a high-end bakery that’s worthy of the rave reviews. Breakfast here is among the best you’ll find in Warsaw. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 20, rozbrat20.com.pl SAM Co-owner Małgorzata Kusina-Doran is a fine-bread connoisseur, honing her skills at a bread-making course chaired

by Raymond Blanc. While SAM have expanded to cover numerous locations, this has not been to the cost of the overall quality. many locations, sam.info.pl

balkan Ba Adriatico As a starter, then the grilled peppers stuffed with creamy, regional cheese are irresistible. But then so too the octopus salad. Mains are a victory of simplicity, with dishes like skewered minced beef served with a bitey sauce and a soft, pillowy Lepinja bread. Yet ignore Thursday seafood night at your peril. Croatian-run, this neighborhood spot has an unassum-

“Sample the exemplary tastes of China in the very heart of Warsaw”

- YAJIA LIN

We invite you to enjoy a splendid culinary journey through China!

Our professional team will create the perfect event for you – we were born to organize!

- communion meals - wedding parties - company meetings - conferences & workshops - events

Ul. Pańska 85 For Reservations tel. 512 671 756 22 253 30 30 panska85.com

EAT! Listings ing air that belies the general quality. (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 50/52, ba-adriatico.pl Banja Luka Lots of clunky timber and imported ceramics set the scene at this eatery, a Balkan stalwart that’s known for its economical pricing structure and bulky portions. Grilled meats are prominent and the food largely reliable. (E8) ul.

Szkolna 2/4, tel. 22 828 1060, banjaluka.pl

british Ę Rybę A couple of places have tried to emulate the taste of the British seaside, but this is the de facto codfather. Here’s a spot where the chips are golden, the fish fresh and the batter crisp and light. Now also serving British breakfast, albeit at a time when most normal people will have already eaten. (E4) Al. Jana Pawła II 18, erybe.pl

burgers Barn Burger Considered one of the founding fathers of Warsaw’s burger culture, Barn Burger have withstood the test of time and emerged as the yardstick all others are judged against. Prepped using freshly ground Charolais beef, choices include the jalapeno-laid Muppet and the outrageous Bypass (400g of beef with quadruple cheese and bacon). If you want to go down in legend, enter one of their American-style speed eating comps. (D4) ul. Złota 9. tel. 512 157 567, barnburger.pl Beef’N’Roll If the wheels have fallen off the burger craze then no-one told Beef’N’Roll.

Originating as a food truck, their success has been such that a fixed venue was required. Everything about the food and drink suggests quality is the main consideration. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel.

531 707 070, beefnroll.pl Burger Bar Warsaw has come full-circle: years after burgers briefly starred as the national

42

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2018

food, it’s the original burger joint that still bosses the field. ul. Puławska 974/80 (enter from Olkuska) & ul. Krucza 41/43, burgerbar.waw.pl Kura Buffalo Wings Looking to revise and rehabilitate the reputation of fried chicken, this cult spot has cool staff, a busy buzz and a tasty selection of strips, wings and homemade sauces: look on it as KFC for the millenial generation. (B2) ul. Nowolipki 15, fb.com/ restauracjakura Okienko When the chips are down and you’re looking for emergency nourishment, then join the queue outside Okienko: serving Belgian-style frites in paper cones, this street-side hatch is a true window of life. The roster of sauces, written up in marker pen on the wall tiles, are often superb. (D7) ul. Polna 22 Pogromcy Meatów Yearn no more for the elusive flavor of the backyard BBQ. Specializing in grilled meat, find exactly just that loaded into artisan buns alongside locally grown greens. The sense of homespun quality makes this the kind of comfort food that Warsaw has been missing for years. (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, tel. 505 703 508 Warburger While Warsaw has lost its appetite for burgers, you wouldn’t necessarily tell by popping in WarBurger. Set inside a diminutive cabin, join the scrum for jazzed-up burgers that use slow-food ingredients. If not the best, they’re most certainly up there. (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1, warburger.pl

chinese Pańska 85 Ample in size, the interiors speak of money well spent. This is especially true because despite the luxury trimmings Pańska looks good without ever losing its dignity. With their kitchen staff headhunted from across China, the food sets a standard that has yet to be seen in any Chinese restaurant

in Warsaw: there’s delicate salmon rolls wrapped in mango; dim sum that are pouches of pure goodness; and Sichuan-style pork that’s a blaze of sizzle and spice. The Beijing Duck, carved and served table-side, is the highlight. (B4) ul.

Pańska 85, panska85.com Regina Bar Stepping past a pair of flowing red drapes at the entrance, guests are ushered in to discover an eclectic world that marries the tastes of New York’s Little Italy to Chinatown next door. This is done excellently with the menu presenting the very essence of ethnic comfort food: General Tso’s chicken, Cantonese roast duck and light, leopard-spotted pizzas.

Brought to you by the makers of MOD, it’s therefore natural that the original style extends to kooky interiors tinged with a trace of retro: a tall mirrored wall and the kind of sparkling chandelier last seen in Boogie Nights. (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, fb.com/Reginabar Rico’s Concept Never let a name fool you. While Rico’s might sound more like a Mexican food truck, the reality presents a former bathhouse luxuriously decorated with hand-painted Majolica, swanky fittings and even a shimmery pool. The menu has won plaudits around town for its stunning authenticity. ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście16/18 To Tu Dumpling Bar A shabby looking shack cabin, To Tu offer what are seriously considered some of the best – if not the best – dim sum in town. Magic-ked up by a Manchurian exile, the experience isn’t unlike being in a sweaty back street haunt in Asia. And that’s a good thing! ul. Niekłańska 33, chinskapierogarnia.pl

desserts Deseo Burakowska Luxury desserts, pralines and tarts served inside an ivy clad building in a leafy post-industrial complex off Burakowska. The contemporary style is reflected by an interior that’s modern, pared down and richly bathed in sloping sunlight. ul. Burakowska 5/7

THE FIRST AND MOST AUTHENTIC TURKISH RESTAURANT IN WARSAW...

COME AND ENJOY THE TRUE TASTE OF TURKEY! EAT WELL, FEEL WELL! OUR MENU ALSO HAS PLENTY OF MEDITERRANEAN CHOICES MAHO AL.KRAKOWSKA 240/242 WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/MAHOPL TEL 22 609 15 48

EAT! Listings El Krepel The rather tantalizing donuts include dulce de leche with cinnamon sugar or rich, creamy donuts topped with marshmallows. The work of Łukasz Kawaller (he of Hell’s Kitchen fame) and blogger / photographer / model Justyna Pankowska, it’s a charming, bijou space of fun, frilly style – think pretty pink seats and a wall overlaid with hundreds of rosebuds. (D6) ul. Śniadeckich 12/16 La Vanille Remember when everyone in the world

began wolfing down cupcakes? La Vanille was born of that time. Though the general appetite for these dinky treats has waned, the popularity of La Vanille hasn’t. (D5) ul.

Krucza 16/22, lavanille.pl Lokal Dela Krem That you can now buy vegan, mojito-flavored cupcakes in Warsaw is an indication of the city’s fanatical commitment to healthy living. A roaring success, the first vegan cake shop in the country has become a local staple. (D5) ul. Hoża 27A Lukullus Founded in 1946, Lukullus have evolved into a funky boutique cafe chain noted for quirky interiors and buzzy atmosphere.

Oh, and desserts. Renouncing short cuts and low-cost ingredients, this family enterprise has earned a name for top quality desserts that see traditional favorites updated for the modern times.

Various locations, lukullus.pl MOD Warsaw has always loved donuts, but it took the arrival of MOD to elevate this humble doughy vice to new levels with a glam New York-inspired makeover. The mango topped donut is our favorite by miles. (D7) ul. Oleandrów 8

WELCOME TO THE GATEWAY OF SASKA KĘPA ul. Francuska 45 restauracjamech.pl tel. 733 757 200

Odette The original spot for ‘fine dining desserts’, Odette’s cool interior causes attention to naturally fall on the long, sleek counter that occupies one end. It’s here that sweet creations glint like boutique little jewels.

(D4) ul. Górskiego 6/07, odette.pl Warszawski Lukier The home of hardcore food porn. Look for their signature freak shakes: towering treats cascading with calories and color.

Their sister op on Żurawia has more of the same… and ice cream! (E5) ul. Hoża 5/7

fine dining Amber Room at the Sobański Palace Set in the pre-war Pałac Sobańskich, this wedding white manor house is the epitome of luxury: plush, discreet, elegant and serene, it unwraps like the most beautiful of presents – a network of corridors and stairwells take guests through

44

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2018

a series of rooms and side-chambers.

Impossibly almost, the food measures up to the surrounds.For mains, the sea trout is spectacular, arriving alongside creamy root parsley and fried cubed cucumbers.

(E6) Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, amberroom.pl Atelier Amaro If Wojciech Amaro’s eponymous restaurant isn’t the most famous in the country, then it’s certainly the most important.

Awarded Poland’s first Michelin star in 2013, it’s a venue that continues to set the pace in terms of innovation. Changing weekly, his ‘calendar of nature’ seeks to present forgotten ingredients such as little-known berries, herbs and flowers against meats and other ingredients reared or grown at the Atelier farm. One for any bucket list (gastronomic or not), there are occasions when dining here can feel like an out-of-body experience. (E6) ul.

Agrykola 1, tel. 22 628 5747, atelieramaro.pl Belvedere Łazienki Królewskie Set in an imperial age glass orangery, it’s festooned with intricate latticework and botanical exotica. The updated interiors are the work of acclaimed set designer Boris Kudlicka, and lend a fresh, contemporary tone that goes hand in hand with the menu. But behind the gels and emulsions and pretty little swirls, this is cooking of substantial depth; it’s cooking that takes you to the very soul of Polish nature. ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. 22 558 6701, belvedere.com.pl Chłodna 15 by Wilamowski Gone are the Alice in Wonderland decorations of the previous tenant, La Maison, replaced instead by a muted charcoal look that’s reassuringly refined – for the time you’re here, you forget you’re on the ground floor of a 70s tower block.

Aiding the amnesia is the classic French cooking of Arkadiusz Wilamowski: small and mercurial in its content, the dailychanging menu is a work of preposterous detail – no sauce takes less than a day to make. So the rumors go, Michelin are watching closely. (B3) ul. Chłodna 15 Do Bo Do Invoking the spirit of Eugeniusz Bodo – an interwar screen legend who once owned an arty café at this very address – Warsaw’s latest fine dining spot throws the

EAT! Listings spotlight on the copious talents of Marek Kropielnicki. His menu is a marriage of local produce, outrageous ideas and precise technique, though so far appears to have divided the city’s food critics.

L’enfant Terrible Looking like he’s just swaggered in from a rock concert, the unconventional style of Michał Bryś goes beyond surface detail alone. Promising maximum excitement, his imaginative menu isn’t short on daring twists and rollercoaster highs. Maverick in every sense of the word, this is a chef that pushes boundaries in a way few others would dare. Though the menu changes often, keep an eye on recurring classics such as ‘tomatoes, tomatoes, tomatoes’, a kickass course that presents the humble tomato in about ten different forms!

More informal than the other top bracket restaurants, the brainwashed loyalty of Enfant’s fans says much for it. (D8) ul.

Sandomierska 13 (enter from Rejtana), tel.

22 119 5705, eterrible.pl N31 Been there, done it all. That’s Robert Sowa, a national treasure widely hailed for modernizing Poland’s gastronomic sector back in the country’s culinary dark days. A common sight on TV, the chef’s public profile has meant there’s no shortage of bums on seats in his flagship restaurant, but this is more than a chef trading on his past. A chic city center

bubble beloved by business types, the food is first class with Sowa’s international travels reflected by surprises such as flawless tuna partnered with kabayaki sauce, yuzu, wasabi dressing and turnip salad. The flavor combinations are exceptional. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 31, n31restaurant.pl Nolita BEST WAWA 2017 “Fine Dining” For many diners, there is no bigger night out than one that begins and ends in this enclave of class. Dashing in its monochrome colors and muted gunmetal shades, Nolita is where Warsaw heads to live the life of the 1%. Lacking the magic tricks of some, the ‘show factor’ might be subdued but the tastes definitely aren’t.

Who to credit? Two words: Jacek Grochowina. Cooking with poise and focus, his menu is a marriage of the classic and creative, with core ingredients given unexpected lifts with cunning turns and inspired little twists: maybe some yuzu with the tartare or konbu with the eel. (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 292 0424, nolita.pl Platter by Karol Okrasa It’s a fact that Okrasa’s appearances in the kitchen are fleeting and rare, but that’s done nothing to hurt this restaurant’s prestige. Head chef Łukasz

Pielak has proved to be a lethal assassin, executing the ideas of his mentor with accuracy and passion. The cooking is detailed, balanced and elegant, with the highlight of our visit being deer in plum sauce. A thing of imperial, velvety richness it’s a dish that turns up the volume on a memorable experience. (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (Hotel InterContinental Warsaw), warsaw.intercontinental.com Salto Any Best of Warsaw list wouldn’t be complete without mentioning Salto. The baby of Martin Gimenez Castro, the chef’s South American influences shine on an a la carte menu that includes corvina ceviche with orange and spices and dry aged steaks worth crossing town for. Mind you, the real riches are on the tasting menu, a six-dish volley of riveting tastes.

The inventiveness peaks with elaborate desserts such as cream of roses, marinated lychee ice cream, coconut and beetroot paper. (D5) ul. Wilcza 73 (enter from Emilii Plater), tel. 22 584 8771, saltorestauracja.pl Senses Diners are best advised to leave logic outside. Inspired by the idea of ‘note-bynote’ cooking, Italian-born chef Andrea Camastra isolates and extracts molecules from ingredients to obtain the purest flavors before matching them up with unlikely partners. What unfolds is a

warsawinsider.pl

45

EAT! Listings dazzling show of near illusory brilliance; the technical proficiency of the kitchen is exceptional and makes the WTF prices easier to swallow. Wrap-up the evening with a pungent, edible cigar. (C2) ul.

Bielańska 12, tel. 22 331 9697, sensesrestaurant.pl Signature You feel a millionaire just being here: we’ve heard the interiors described as a ‘Monegasque state of mind’, and that’s not a bad way to surmise a décor that’s all about friezes and reliefs dated from the time this was the Soviet Embassy, lavish 1950s Oswald chairs, lighting by Serge Mouille and original Marilyn photos shot by the acclaimed Milton Greene.

Food-wise the restaurant makes a massive splash with a menu that’s clever, creative and pretty. Count on Signature’s seasonally changing desserts providing a happy ending. (D5) ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 55 38755, signaturerestaurant.pl

french Bistro la Cocotte With access through a shadowy courtyard, the sensation you’re stepping inside a little secret is a pleasure in itself.

Presenting itself in a riot of red and white gingham Cocotte feels warm and intimate, a factor aided by a small open kitchen

and the atmosphere of home. The menu, chalked up on the blackboard, is a flexible affair that makes use of the ingredients at hand, and is divided into a smattering of light bites, desserts and plat du jour. (D6) ul. Mokotowska 12, tel. 664 906 000 Brasserie Smak A moody, open-plan space overlooking the busy market action of Hala Gwardii, Brasserie is place in which to soak in the atmosphere of this echoey hall. It’s given added impetus by artfully arranged seafood platters, meaty snails and stews that are heavy, robust and thick with goodness.

Pl. Zelaznej Bramy 1 (Hala Gwardii) L’Arc Looking elegant with its black/white floors and subtle decorations bills at L’Arc can become big number affairs – especially if you hanker for seafood. Pick from numerous types of oysters, or delve into the fish tank for the lobster of your choosing. The catchment area extends beyond the borders of Mokotów, not just because of their ‘fresh from France’ seafood, but because of classic dishes such as Mulard duck and Burgundy snails. (E8) ul. Puławska 16, larc.pl La Cocotte Saska Already well regarded on account of a highly successful venture just off Pl. Zbawiciela, La Cocotte have spread their wings to set up shop in scenic Saska.

Unique selection of Georgian wines and spirits

tue.-wed. from 1500 to 2300 thu.-fri. from 1500 to 2400 sat. from 1200 to 2400 sun. from 1200 to 2300 address: al. Ujazdowskie 22 00-478 Warszawa email: winebar@rusiko.pl + 48 22 628 45 76

46

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2018

A typical French-style bistro / wine bar, the offer includes a brief but largely brilliant menu whose main strength is its mussels. The wine list is substantial and French-focused and enjoyed by a smart, upmarket audience. (H4) ul.

Walecznych 68A

georgian Chinkali Signposted by a Georgian-language shingle, there’s a real sense of pleasure about this place. More modern than your typical folksy ethnic outpost, Chinkali’s draw is indeed its chinkali: dough purses packed with meaty broth. There’s a genuine homemade quality to these slurpy bundles of joy, meaning that while they’re authentic, consistency can vary. And don’t miss out on the red bean chachapuri washed down with a mouthwash-colored tarragon lemonade. (D4) ul. Zgoda 3 Klukovka Jana Pawła’s pavilions are the unlikely location of this culinary beacon: amid the aggressive waft of its kebab shop neighbors, Klukova presents itself as a warming mouse hole filled with banter, babble and rich aromas. Specializing in the foods of ‘the east’, this means a menu inspired by the tastes of Georgia, Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan, and more. The mutton manty dumplings are great, and best appreciated with a bottle of unfiltered Lithuanian beer. (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 45A, klukovka.pl Rioni Warsaw’s foodies like talking of ‘cursed locations’, and they don’t get more hexed than Mokotowska 17. But despite its history of failed ventures, Rioni feel better placed than most to break the jinx. Set in a curving brick room lit by dangling overhead bulbs, join a young-ish crowd for juicy Georgian dumplings oozing with meat and herbs, hearty soups and big, doughy wheels of cheese-filled chaczapuri. (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17 (enter from Pl. Zbawiciela), rioni.pl Rusiko Explaining Georgian cuisine isn’t all that hard. To the uninitiated, it’s representative of the heart, spirit and passion of its

EAT! Listings people, a cuisine the values the concept of the feast: wine, laughter and song find themselves elevated to roles of primary importance. A food of life, spice and whole-hearted tastes, consider Rusiko as the best ambassador there is for this surprisingly diverse kitchen. Occasional live music lends a good-humored twist.

Note: closed Monday. (E5) Al. Ujazdowskie 22, tel. 22 629 0628, rusiko.pl

greek & turkish

Anatolia Looking dark and moody, Anatolia adds a veneer of sophistication to the traditional Turkish dining experience; presentation, you can tell, is important, but so too is the general sense of replicating the standards of home. Meat finds itself treated with reverence, and that holds especially true when it comes to steak and lamb. Full review coming soon. Pl. Konstytucji 2, anatolia-waw.pl

Maho Maho feels like it’s located at the end of the earth – but its distance deters no-one, least of all its army of hardcore followers. Why are they there? The answer is a Turkish grill that takes you right to the heart of this glorious cuisine.

Highly recommended is the Iskender kebab: layers of juicy doner meat served with scoops of fresh tomato sauce and fresh, thin pide bread straight from the wood-fired oven. While you’re there, you may as well stock up on imported goodies from their adjoining store. Al. Krakowska 240/242, maho.com.pl Paros Out of all of Warsaw’s Greek contributions Paros dazzles most with a glitzy look that’s a complete U-turn from the typical taverna look. Owned by the same team behind El Greco, the menu is identical, though a recent visit revealed a kitchen resting on its laurels – not one plate on our table was finished. (D4) ul.

Jasna 14/16, tel. 22 828 1067, parosrestauracja.pl Santorini Santorini looks scuffed and tired but there’s a bonhomie present that instantly engages. The kitchen attaches no value to things like presentation, preferring instead to simply treat diners to piles of grilled and skewered food that consistently tastes right. ul. Egipska 7, tel.

22 672 0525, kregliccy.pl/santorini/ Sofra A highly respected Turkish eatery with a wondrous beef mussaka and a wholly admirable lineup of other ethnic dishes: the lamb shashlik has never failed us.

Pleasingly informal, this neighborhood redoubt feels cheerfully unforced, and it becomes an easy place to hang around in. (C6) ul. Wilcza 71, tel. 731 847 731 Taverna Patris This Greek restaurant is not about sophistication and finesse, it’s about truth and taste. Likewise, the interiors have no airs and graces: there’s a rough and ready style that’s apt for noisy celebrations and familial occasions. Tawerna Patris is not about shallow details or surface appearances. Instead, it’s a place of depth, a place of integrity, a place of joy. (G4) ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 407, tel 22 357 11 11, tawernapatris.pl

hungarian U Madziara U Madziara looks like it took two days to decorate. No-one goes here to marvel at the interiors though, they go in the knowledge that they’ll find great food at prices all bank cards can support. Chef Gabor’s signature goulash is one of life’s simple pleasures, though the service can come across as distracted and inattentive. (B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 620 1423, umadziara.pl

indian Bollywood Lounge Known for their raucous dusk-till-dawn parties, there is another less hedonistic

roll filled by Bollywood: that of a restaurant. The menu is an uncomplicated, classic affair that’s an ideal primer for the party ahead. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, tel. 22 827 0283, bollywoodlounge.pl Bombaj Masala Not just the best looking of Warsaw’s Indian restaurants, Bombaj Masala also has the best cooking. With so many restaurants reliant on one ‘master pot’ for their curry, this classy venue feels unique in delivering a plethora of rich, intense tastes. The vindaloo is a special standout, with big, punchy flavors that leave you tingling pleasantly long after you leave.

(B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 606 688 777, bombajmasala.pl

Curry House Ask for something extra hot in Curry House and by Vishnu that’s what you’ll get. Yet at Curry House there is more to sing about than just Poland’s highest voltage vindaloo. The curries are rich and sumptuous and consistently cited as among the best in the city. If in doubt, the chicken tikka masala is a fail-safe request. ul. Żeromskiego 81 & ul. Hoża 54 & ul. Towarowa 35, curry-house.pl Curry Leaf The post-industrial style is diluted by the number of Indian trinkets hanging off the vents and pipes. Owned by the same crew behind the lauded Curry House, you’d be completely correct to assume consistency and excellence. ul. Conrada 5, curryleaf.pl House of Curry Heat seekers can ‘enjoy’ a genuine deathby-fire experience at House of Curry, though far milder curries are available for more sensitive palettes – either way, the experience is fantastic, and good news for those stuck out in the depths of Józefów. ul. Patriotów 11 A, house-of-curry.pl Karma Having switched postcodes at the start of 2018, Karma’s new Mokotów address has a fresh, contemporary edge with an interior that’s chic, classy and leagues ahead of many of Warsaw’s warsawinsider.pl

47

EAT! Listings other Indian restaurants. The food is impressive alright, with a boisterously punchy madras among the highlights.

South Indian specialties are the forte though, with Karma’s menu presenting a wide range of dosas, uttapams, idlis and parrottas. Al. Niepodległości 18, restauracjakarma.pl Mandala This long-standing legend is known for its ample portions and online delivery service. Sitting down, the creamy mutton methi is a masterpiece, and the Madras

WEGENERACJA

100 %

VEGAN

GLUTEN FREE

LUNCH 21zł

Tel. 514 478 166 Domaniewska 22A WARSZAWA

recognized for its blitzing big spices. Their latest operation, set out on Sienna, is open for Indian-style breakfast. ul. Emilii Plater 9/11 / ul. Etiudy Rewolucyjnej 9 / ul. Sienna 87, mandalaklub.com or indiaexpress.pl Mr. India Split on two levels the design is contemporary if a little characterless: leather banquettes that leave a sweaty bum print and wood paneling. No problem though, if it looks bland then the food isn’t.

That means an incredible butter chicken that’s deep and immensely satisfying.

Then there’s the vindaloo, an experience that leaves some close to spontaneous combustion. Undoubtedly one of the best regarded Indian restaurants in this town.

Al. KEN 47, tel. 22 213 0689, mrindia.pl Namaste India Responsible for first bringing quality, budget Indian food to Warsaw, Namaste have grown from humble beginnings (three tables and cooking done in a cupboard-sized space behind a curtain) to evolve into a bona fide two-floored restaurant. But expansion has come at the cost of quality – our last trip (March 2017) promises to be the last for some time.

(D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 15, tel. 22 357 0939, namasteindia.pl

indonesian Warung Jakarta The menu has a street foodie edge and is divided into steps wherein diners first pick out their choice of protein, then their rice, before concluding with any vegetables add-ons (e.g. pak choy, green beans or water spinach). While most Warsaw restaurants have a special lunch scheme going on, Warung’s is one that actually warrants a further look: find truly great off-menu dishes that are highly accessible to all levels of income. (D6) ul.

Piękna 28/34

international Aioli This runaway hit has taken Warsaw by storm. It’s a jaunty space with hams hanging from hooks and long communal

48

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2018

tables that thrive with life. Aioli’s breakfasts, sandwiches, pastas and pizzas are a lesson in clean, simple pleasure: nothing out of the world, just consistently good. This and the liberal prices mean there’s no shortage of people passing in and out the doors. (D3) ul. Świętokrzyska 18, tel. 22 290 102, aioli-cantine.com Ale Wino Dip through an archway to discover Ale Wino, a beautiful wine bar whose menu has been well tailored to the season.

Tweaked for the season is the pork belly, a Złotnicka pig adorned with apple sugar snap peas and celery mousse – gorgeous.

As for the wine, put your faith in the sommelier, Oliver. (F5) ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 628 3830, alewino.pl Bazar Kocha Designed to evoke the spirit of a farmers’ market, the woodsy interior is filled with stall-style units neatly stacked with jars and pots. Yet these are not decorative decoys, but part of a thoughtful grocery offer aimed at showcasing Kocha’s own-made produce. Above all though, this is a restaurant whose menu is strongly influenced by concepts of ‘terroir’. The giant leg of lamb falls off the bone and is a dish to recommend and remember for several months to come. (D6) ul.

Mokotowska 33, bazarkocha.pl Bez Tytułu A beautifully decorated restaurant on trendy Poznanska. The menu has French and Polish accents and reflects the chef’s creative streak well. (D5) ul. Poznańska 16, beztytulu.com Bibenda The menu declares Bibenda to be ‘a celebration of food, drink and togetherness’, and that’s precisely what it is.

Augmenting the warm, busy interiors are a thoughtful selection of craft beers and a concise menu that varies from month-tomonth. The apparent simplicity of the food is illusory and belies the kitchen’s knack for spotting interesting combinations such as goose with pumpkin puree, cranberry / red wine jam and chili caramelized beetroot. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 10, tel. 502 770 303, bibenda.pl Brasserie Warszawska Looking for classic cuisine with no daft

EAT! Listings flights of fancy? Here you have it. At a time when everyone wants to be Ferran Adrià, Brasserie has both a menu and interior that you can understand: panfried foie gras; elegant beef Rossini; and sinful apple tarte tatin, all served inside posh interiors of zinc-plated mirrors and chessboard floors. Their Michelin Bib Gourmand is a source of pride, but it’s the number of repeat clients that are the ultimate paean to the skills of the chef.

(E5) ul. Górnośląska 24, tel. 22 628 9423, brasseriewarszawska.pl Bubbles Occupying a small, square room, it’s intimate and relaxed: a place busy with blackboards and bottles, crates and clutter. It radiates warmth and honesty.

The food is exquisite, and includes big, meaty snails farmed in Mazury, and their signature dish: Swiss-style raclette.

Presented on a wooden chopping board, this cheese dish is classic melty goodness, and served alongside a pile of potatoes, onions marinated with caramel and candied pumpkin. Considering the place doubles as a champagne bar the prices are remarkably moderate. (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 512 540 913, bubbles. com.pl Concept 13 You’d expect a rooftop meal at Poland’s ultimate luxury department store to cost the earth, but that’s not the case. The zł. 50 lunch deal allows Joe Public to enjoy the considerable skills of Dariusz Barański. That he manages to create different pieces of art each and every afternoon is a testament to his talent – fellow chefs and foodies privately talk of him as a Michelin star in the making. (D4) ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7373 Dekant Wine Bar Not just a contender for Warsaw’s best new wine bar, but also Warsaw’s best new restaurant! The tuna tartar comes with the added ka-boom of a nose clearing wasabi, while the filet mignon (a snip at zł.

79) is simply astonishing. The surprise are the ash-cooked potatoes, beautiful things with a char that wows. The desserts are few in number but equally outstanding: we fell in love with a passion fruit semifreddo with strawberries marinated in Grand Marnier. (F5) ul. Zajęcza 15, dekant. com.pl

Der Elefant This leviathan restaurant unravels in a maze of wrought iron and monochrome tiles – beautiful to look at (it was created

by Oscar winning set designer Allan Starski), it’s caused a stir for more than just this alone. Where once the menu looked like it was devised by throwing darts at a cookbook, the focus has now been narrowed. While some of the dishes are strictly middling, the filet mignon (zł. 69) is one of the best meat deals in town in terms of quality / price / consistency. (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, tel. 22 890 0010, derelefant.com Dom Here’s the very epitome of casual dining: set on the ground floor of a suburban house, the warm corners and garden views give Dom a real sense of homey charm. In line with all that is a menu that celebrates simple, honest cooking.

Everyone who visits ends up loving the place. ul. Mierosławskiego 12, tel. 509 165 712 Drukarnia Wrapped inside an ugly 1950s facade, this former printing house unravels to expose a sensational interior high on retro pieces: jagged-shaped stone floor tiles, a red neon and stern Socialist era statuettes lend a heavy PRL accent, though the big statement at Drukarnia is supplied courtesy of the architecture itself. Tall windows, high ceilings and a peculiar spiral staircase that disappears into nowhere collude to lend Drukarnia a sense of light, space and depth.

The food: limited choice of European standards cooked with competence.

If you’re in the area, worth a look ul.

Mińska 65, drukarnianapradze.pl Dyletanci Filled with crisp, modern citizens that radiate confidence, Dyletanci introduces itself as a bistro set with green banquettes and Tom Dixon lamps. The wine selection is among the best in the nation, while the cooking has been left to Rafał Hreczaniuk, a workaholic chef with outrageous talent. His zander fillet thrills with every bite. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44A, dyletanci.pl Fest Port Czerniakowski Wedged into that narrow strip of land

Finest Authentic Indian Cuisine in Locations Around Warsaw

WWW.CURRY-HOUSE.PL

HOŻA 54

536 443 771

ŻEROMSKIEGO 81 508 870 774

WWW.HOUSE-OF-CURRY.PL

PATRIOTÓW 11A, FALENICA 512 533 415 warsawinsider.pl

49

EAT! Listings between the river and Port Czerniakowski, Fest feels unique for Warsaw – a place thoroughly isolated from the concrete badlands. But those thinking of this wooden cabin as a one season summer wonder would be overlooking its wider qualities. Of these, the cooking is at the forefront. Simple and straight-forward yet more-ishly addictive, the menu is an atavistic celebration of fire and brawn.

The ribs, cooked in a wood-fired smoker that stands outdoors, have earned this venue a place in local legend. (G6) ul.

Zaruskiego 8

SHEESHA , AU T H E N T I C C U I S I N E , M E E T I N G P L AC E , D R I N KS

Genesis What the hell is it? Seen as an amorphous blob composed of triangular white plates and large glass panels, Genesis restaurant is an instant head turner: the feeling is of stepping into your own futuristic space adventure. As for the menu, that’s been revamped by the new chef, former Top Chef contestant Paweł Kibart, and makes use of a Mibrasa charcoal oven – apparently the first in Poland. (A4) Pl. Europejski 5, fb.com/genesiswarsaw Grand Kredens This mighty veteran continues to draw a steady custom on account of a wide-reaching menu that aims to keep everyone happy – and it usually does.

The design is surreal to say the least, and is laid out in such a way as to always guarantee a lively atmosphere. (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 111, tel. 22 629 8008, kredens.com.pl InFormal Kitchen There’s plenty of fireworks over the course of a vibrant menu that sources its produce from regional eco farms: meat from within a 26-kilometer radius of Warsaw, dairy produce from Mazury and fish from Pomerania. The rump of lamb is a class act, and bettered only by the pear and thyme tart for dessert. (D3) Pl. Małachowskiego 2 (enter from Traugutta), tel. 531 918 534, informalkitchen.pl

dom-faraona.com, O r d y n a c k a 13

50

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2018

Kieliszki Na Hożej Locally inspired, but with a French twist, the tastes are precise and well-balanced, but also varied enough to give a seemingly simple dishes several interesting sub-plots. From the outside, it looks like something straight from the 6th arrondissement. Through the door, and

diners are met head-on by a seductive space that’s dark, intimate and full of gleaming glass: beautiful. (D5) ul. Hoża 41, kieliszkinahozej.pl Kuchnia Otwarta Kuchnia Otwarta have created a swell of excitement that’s rippled way beyond Wilanów. Why? Plotted out by Michał Molenda, the menu is a sincere work based around regional, seasonal produce: nothing contrived, nothing forced, it’s a card that roots out the very best that Poland has to offer. ul. Klimczaka 1 (Royal Wilanów), kuchniaotwarta.pl La Brasserie Modern The interior of Didier Gomez whispers intimacy, yet it also embraces notions of space and light. The casual elegance that emanates from the design is accented by warm colors, low banquettes and glinting mirrors. The menu fits seamlessly with the surrounds: a fresh, modern look at French cuisine, but one that values clarity and simplicity. (D3) ul. Królewska 11, tel.

22 657 8332, sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com

Loft Color, that’s what Loft has. It’s everywhere – from the design, which is all bubble shaped lights and splashy, bright cushions, to the drinks: extravagant cocktails that possibly glow in the dark.

The menu is full of playful experimentation, something reflected by a seasonal menu that has, in the past, presented such choices as chicken with strawberries. (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 668 016 964, restauracjaloft.pl Mech Nestled close to the mouth of Francuska, Mech has gradually evolved to become one of the area’s main muster points: and you can see why. Few menus in the district cover quite so many bases. From breakfasts and burgers through to salads and pasta, you get the sense of a place that aims to keep everyone happy. (H4) ul.

Francuska 45, restauracjamech.pl MOD Chef Trisno’s menu sets his French culinary training against his Singaporean

EAT! Listings upbringing. The outcome is a card (actually, a printed sheet of paper) that makes for dangerously enjoyable reading: duck hearts with beetroot / soy emulsion and braised red cabbage; duck confit with pok choy, soy / red wine sauce and spicy cranberry chutney. Moderate prices and funky décor (a retro mirrored wall, upside down plants hanging from the ceiling) give it an ad hoc edge and plenty of character. Note: by day its Warsaw’s top donut store, so visit at night for their proper menu. (D6) ul. Oleandrów 8, fb.com/MODOleandrow8 Mokotowska 69 Set inside a rotunda at the tail end of the street, it’s a place that exudes elegance and class. Most of all, however, it’s a restaurant to be enjoyed. Brought to you by the same team credited for Merliniego 5, Mokotowska’s appreciation of steak has been lifted from their elder sister.

Yet the virtues of this restaurant extend beyond steak alone: the Insider enjoyed a volley of greats – creamy breaded calf brains, sophisticated smoked eel, and Mazurian crayfish served in a deep, joyous sauce of rowan berry and brandy.

(E5) ul. Mokotowska 69, mokotowska69. com Momu Dominated by meat that’s cooked using the only smoker of its kind in Poland, the menu is comforting and strangely familiar: these are falvors reminiscent of campfire nights – brawny, smoky tastes with towering Reuben sandwiches, juicy steaks, bone marrow and wooden slabs brimming with meats from MOMU’s smokehouse. Impromptu art, tweeting birds and a neo-industrial design add oomph to the busy ambiance. (C2) ul.

Wierzbowa 11, tel. 506 100 001, momu.pl Orzo Functioning until recently as Aioli by Mini, the subsequent re-brand has seen the industrial interiors enhanced by a mother lode of plant life and greenery. Other changes include the addition of orzobased dishes as well as a new motto that asserts their connection to ‘people, music, nature’. A cynical attempt to attach themselves to Warsaw’s fad for healthy living, or something more special? We’ll check back soon to check just which it is.

(D6) Pl. Konstytucji 5

Pink Lobster The door clatters shut to divulge a narrow space of tall palm fronds and marble finishes underneath soaring ceilings that seem to stretch on forever. Bursts of flamingo pink color lend a dapper sense of dazzle to this polished-looking venue. Food is an upscale work that, in spite of the Lobster’s name, awards equal importance to land and sea. Beautifully plated, dishes that the Insider fell for inc. sea bass ceviche, an exquisite exhibition of complex tastes set down in a slash of green on a plate that could pass for a work of sculpture. Immaculate roe deer and a series of extravagant desserts also won praise. (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, pinklobster.pl Plato BEST WAWA 2017 “Neo Bistro” Conceived as a ‘smart casual’ restaurant, it’s a reasonably compact space with a modern style and incandescent bulbs hanging from a complex cat’s cradle of interweaving wires: classy but nothing too flashy or flamboyant. Then there’s the menu, a strange work that sees Spanish influences brushing shoulders next to Polish and Asian. It sounds silly and preposterous but my God it works. December saw us wowed by beef tartar cut from Polish Hereford, an aromatic oriental broth, and a refined halibut encircled with sage pesto, redcurrants and fresh almonds. Stunning. ul. Klimczaka 1 (Royal Wilanow), restauracjaplato.pl

‘Simplicity, elegance and atmosphere’

Cafe • Wine Bar • Restaurant • Whisky Bar • Wine Cellar ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 515 037 001 www.hoza.warszawa.pl www.facebook.com/hoza25 Open 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-21:00

Rozbrat 20 Much noise has been made about Rozbrat 20’s bread and wine selection, but their food is also something of a standout. Our trip in December meant twirls of herring pickled in vinegar and herbs and surrounded by a whorl of pond green colors; expertly assembled and boisterously flavored Hungarian foie gras; and a roll of gelatinous pork with ribbons of crispy salsify and a reassuring, fleshy taste. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 20, rozbrat20.com.pl Secado Casual, intimate interiors complement a menu that’s expanded from its original Latin leanings. Everything we’ve tried here has been close to culinary gold, and that includes the surf & turf, tortillas and the roast beef. (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 66, tel. 608 707 799, secado.com.pl warsawinsider.pl

51

EAT! Listings Soul Kitchen Bistro If the previous venue was all slanted towards low-pitched business conversation then the new one is positively festive in comparison: scuffed brickwork, tall bar stools, a long communal table, etc.

The seasonal menu is a pick-and-mix of small-to-medium plates, including a halibut gravlax, whose delicate taste juxtaposes well against the rougher, earthier kick of the radish, and crayfish presented in a bird’s nest of green beans, fennel and leek. For mains, look for the braised beef. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 18A, soulkitchen.pl Stixx It’s easy to distrust a menu with such international diversity, but the kitchen crew really make it come together: the Indian section is particularly outstanding. Then there’s the design, a balance between slick corporate and sexy cosmopolitan: with the Warsaw Spire towering above it outside, it’s the kind of address to take any new arrival who still thinks of Poland as being backward. (A4) Pl. Europejski 4A, tel. 22 340 4040, stixx.pl Strefa If there’s a dining room in heaven, then it probably looks like Strefa – only marginally less white. Pure and pristine, the swan-like elegance of the interior whispers dignity and decorum.

Immaculate and refined, it’s a soothing atelier with a rarefied air. Mostly though, it’s the food that people talk about. Citing Nordic cuisine as his primary influence, chef Łukasz Andruszkiewicz has honed a menu of note which, on our November visit, included a deep and soothing mushroom soup the brought to mind Poland’s dark autumn forest. The tastes are clear and true and say much for a chef that has his brain switched on. (C3) ul. Próżna 9, tel.

22 255 0850, restauracjastrefa.pl

Warszawski Sznyt Warsaw’s historic center is rightly glorified for many reasons – its restaurants, however, are not one of them. In fact, there’s probably nowhere in the city with a higher concentration of sub-par

52

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2018

efforts. Aiming to redress the balance are Sznyt, an ambitious venue with swank interiors overlooking the Royal Castle, and a kitchen staff headhunted from blue ribbon venues such as Salto and Amaro.

Set over two floors (one focused on Polish cuisine, the other on ‘international’), the pride of the house is afforded to the wood-fired grill. (D2) ul. Senatorska 2, warszawskisznyt.pl Weranda Bistro Warmly decorated with shrubbery and dangling paper decoys, Weranda’s design is thoughtful enough to be in equilibrium with the wider Koszyki setting, yet sufficiently distinct to stand apart from the crowd. Kudos, as well, to the food. Celebrated for their salads, don’t expect to be pecking on morsels of rabbit food – instead, pepare for huge, leafy affairs assembled to look complex and intriguing. Recommended is the Croatian salad which arrives ensconced inside jumbo leaves of lettuce and cascading with mango, shrimps, goat cheese and much more besides. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki), weranda.pl White One The changing face of Koszykowa street is almost embodied by White One – where once stood a disintegrating tenement stands a revamped building with this super swanky ground floor restaurant.

Ideal for those nights you want to make an impression, interiors are well-spaced, smart and modern but never too intimidating. The pared-down menu is fully reflective of contemporary dining trends and includes a daily changing tasting menu that’s dependent on both available produce and the whims of the chef. Full review soon. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 47, whiteone.pl Wilczy Głód The jaunty, impish design makes use of cartoonish wolves on the walls and treelike installations strung with bare light bulbs. And look, there’s a furry, mouse resting on a cushion. But if the place is playful and perky, then the cooking is both serious and sincere. Matching international ideas with organic local produce from small family farmsteads, you immediately sense this is a place created out of a love and respect for food. (D5) ul. Wilcza 29A, tel. 22 891 0285

Winsky Opened in November, Winsky have made a blistering start to life with early points scored for their selection of edgy ‘tap wines’ and menu of small plates – though mainly Polish in spirit, there’s enough international twists and turns to keep things varied. The design, with its deep sofas and riverside views, feels refined and considered – the kind of place you’d impress a first date. (F4) ul. Wioślarska 10

italian Ave Pizza The argument over who serves Warsaw’s best pizza goes right to the wire, but there’s no doubting that Ave Pizza are up there on the leaderboard. Set across a sparse, metropolitan area, this fashionable L-shaped joint comes endorsed by the capital’s notoriously picky Italian community. Order the pillowy calzone and you’ll soon learn why. (E3) ul. Topiel 12, tel.

22 828 8507, avepizza.pl

Bordo Offering a breakfast menu from 9 onwards, Bordo starts busy and finishes even busier. Find simple but accurately reproduced Italian recipes and wood-fired pizza ovens that are expertly manned. (D4) ul. Chimelna 34, bordo.com.pl DaCurio Although it looks small and humble DaCurio have made quick work of amassing an enthusiastic following. Credit for that rests with the Roman-style pizza that comes sold by the slice. Made using Italian oils and flour, the pizzas here deserve the adulation they’ve received.

(E3) ul. Tamka 45A Delizia The sheer proliferation of Italian restaurants lends an element of chance to dining out: cut through the noise by visiting Delizia, a place that’s consistently topped polls ever since it launched in 2010. Lorenzo’s cooking is upscale Italian with a contemporary twist, and comes presented by Luca, an ebullient ball of energy who patrols the floor with

EAT! Listings sparkling good humor. In the hands of these two an unforgettable night comes guaranteed. Top quality imported products, a dimly-lit romantic atmosphere, a tasteful design and faultless food: no wonder so many rate this as their favorite Italian. (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 22 622 6665, delizia.com.pl Dziurka od Klucza An enchanting locale in which enigmatic, lavender-painted doors sit embedded into the walls, as if waiting to be magically opened by the mysterious keys that hang from the numerous interior details. Set with empty picture frames and cotton ball lights, interiors just don’t get any cuter. As for food, the concise, daily-changing menu is centered around homemade pasta – pride of place is given to the black colored pasta served with seafood. (E3) ul. Radna 13, tel. 500 150 494, dziurkaodklucza.com.pl Focaccia The Insider’s visit went something like

this: wrist-thick octopus with an arc of yellow mousse, conversation stopping beef tenderloin alongside a glistening pool of madeira sauce and then an orange ice cream with caramel and ginger that soon merged into a big gooey brew of chocolatey mess. The only surprise is there’s no Italian in the kitchen – it appears they don’t need one. This is seriously talented cooking inside an interior that’s fresh and light and reflective of the food. (D2) ul. Senatorska 13/15, tel. 22 829 6969, focaccia.pl Mąka i Woda Purists applaud an approach that uses a custom-made oven from Naples and imported ingredients such as 00 Caputo flour and DOP certified San Marzano tomatoes. Scrupulously authentic, it’s no wonder that it’s packed to the gunnels every night of the week – even their Facebook page warns of 20-minute waiting times for a table alone. (D4) ul.

Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 91 87

Otto Pompieri Off-hand there’s about three or four pizzerias in Warsaw that really get it right, but Otto, this place gets it righter. If that’s not a word then apologies, the thing is that’s exactly what it is. The artichoke pizza is an orgy of melty greatness, but it’s the margherita that’s the king: larger than the plate it’s served on, it’s a celestial experience from start to finish. What about the place itself? It looks every bit as delicious as it tastes. Set within the former, pre-war Hotel Saski, from the outside it shines amid the grind of Pl. Bankowy like a diamond in the rough.

Inside, it’s retro Little Italy – only new, polished, slick. (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, fb.com/ otto.pompieri Sexy Duck Marketing themselves as a ‘craft Italian kitchen’, Sexy Duck make a song and dance about artisan this and that while never justifying their own hyperbole. Were they not so keen to tell you otherwise,

BORDO HAS BEEN PRESENT IN THE HEART OF WARSAW FOR 17 YEARS Breakfast: 7 days a week from 9 a.m. till noon • Order breakfast and get a second one for just 1 PLN Lunch: 19 PLN (Mon – Fri, noon till 4 p.m.) • Soup + main + dessert Mediterranean cuisine, focaccia, bruschetta, sandwiches, pizza, pasta, Italian wines, cocktails, and a choice of lemonade.

VISIT OUR GARDEN IN THE HEART OF THE CITY!

bordo.com.pl

ul.Chmielna 34, tel. 22 826 0171 info@bordo.com.pl fb bordo chmielna

warsawinsider.pl

53

EAT! Listings you’d mistake the food as being something from a mid-market high street chain enterprise. Pl. Konstytucji 3, tel. 22 400 3737 Si From the makers of Secado comes a new downtown venture: Si, a fun Italian stop with homemade pasta, an array of pizza and a hefty choice of cocktails. Geared towards good times, a list of rotating daily offers has done a fair job of drumming up trade. (C3) ul. Marszałkowska 115

japanese & sushi Arigator This Japanese-style noodle joint whisks you to the narrow, steamy back alleys of late night Tokyo. Clad in corrugated iron and dark, weathered wooden slats, it’s got that buzzing sense of chaos that feels familiar from the films. And the food, gosh, they get that right as well.

From a tiny menu order up dainty pork dumplings, braised kakuni bacon or deep-fried tofu before hitting up a feisty bowl of ramen emanating life-affirming goodness. A complex tangle of interlacing flavors, it’s the sort of dish you’d happily queue up for: and yes, people do. (D6) ul.

Piękna 54 Benihana Fire, flash, show and sizzle: the Benihana experience merges cooking with cabaret with diners sat ringside around teppanyaki grills. These cooking stations are the stage for the Benihana crew to demonstrate their riveting range of nifty knifework and daredevil antics. Outside of the realm of the grill, the sushi is also strikes the right spot. (C4) ul. Twarda 2/4, benihanapoland.com

UL. PRÓŻNA 10 TEL: 577 607 775 restauracjasanthai.pl

54

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2018

Fat Buddha Immense in size, there’s a confident feeling of decadent ostentation: with light kept at bay by vast mulberry-colored drapes, what would otherwise appear as an over-sized hall feels intimate and sensual, dark and delicious. Japanese in spirit, the menu pitches a refined selection of exceptional dishes – elaborate dragon rolls; delicate gyoza; and beef tataki that’s

lightly seared and thinly sliced. It’s all perfect. (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 2/4 Gabriel de Garcia & Sakana It’s not uncommon to hear the preparation of sushi described as a form of art, but Spaniard Gabriel de Garcia takes things in a new direction with his spectacular translation of this Japanese craft. Using premium ingredients and unusual combinations (seasonal fruits and flowers figure highly), his creations are a vivid blast of color and freshness.

Expect 2018 to get even better as word starts to spread of the magic that’s being woven. (D2) ul. Moliera 4/6 Izumi Sushi The original location never ceases to amaze with its sushi, though it’s the addition on Biały Kamień that really gets people talking. Here it’s not just the food that wows, but the interiors: a huge venue whose open plan doubles as an indoor forest – you need to see it to believe it.

(D6) ul. Mokotowska 17 (pl. Zbawiciela), tel.

22 825 7950, izumisushi.eu Mizu Those who’ve visited have been largely unanimous in their appraisal: Warsaw has not seen sushi this good before.

Elaborate, imaginative and immaculately prepped, there’s a magic here that makes the knees go wobbly. Fresh and flawless, disappointments are practically unheard of. Add to that an off-center location in a former factory and you get a true ‘in the know’ gem popular with celebs trying to go under the radar. Full review soon. ul.

Duchnicka 3, mizusushi.pl

Na Sushi Sleek, dark and dominated by a lush picture of a breathtaking waterfall, at Na Sushi a smart crowd join forces around a horseshoe-shaped bar to click chopsticks over a top pedigree menu high on enticements: eel rolls with marinated pumpkin and sriracha wrapped in torched yellowtail and lime; spicy octopus rolls; and tempura rolls with shrimp, eel, mushroom, radish, leek and mayo. Fresh, creative and expertly assembled, it’s a welcome addition to a

EAT! Listings fast-rising area. Not cheap, but then good sushi isn’t. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 54, fb.com/ nasushikoszykowa Sato Gotuje Signposted by its own splash of Mangastyle art adorning the exterior wall, this Commie era pavilion feels small and squashed and assembled on a budget.

Who cares? No-one. An exciting departure from the norm – no sushi here – the menu is a selection of bitey Japanese street food such as grilled mackerel fillet with shavings of grated radish. Prices and quality ensure you don’t stop until you’ve gobbled your way through much of the menu. ul. Pawińskiego 24 Shoku Most places that claim to serve fusion do so because of an identity crisis. At Shoku, though, the mix and match approach when it comes to Asia (if it’s tasty, stick it on the menu!) feels rational and put together. Never short of custom, locals gather inside a bright, contemporary space to slurp down bowls of ramen, share shoku bowls or click chopsticks over small plates of dim sum and wonton.

Come summer, the scene ramps up a notch with diners flocking to a prim garden area that’s billiard green in color.

(A4) ul. Karolkowa 30, shoku.pl Sushi Zushi The mania for sushi is in recess, and that’s a good thing – the rogue operators are dead or dying off, and are survived by the best. And make no mistake, Sushi Zushi continue to be one of the No. 1 ex-pat choices. Appreciated by a stunning crowd, the rolls are often bold, creative and always astonishingly fresh. (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 420 3373, sushizushi.pl Tomo While Warsaw’s other sushi stops gather cobwebs Tomo packs out each night – that should say enough. With the maki, sushi and sashimi bobbing past on wooden platters, this place aims for fast, maximum turnover without ever making the diner feel second best. (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2344, tomo.pl Uki Uki How much do the locals appreciate Warsaw’s original udon bar? Enough to queue

outside the door? That’s right. Dining is a close quarters experience here, but is done so without complaint: that electric pasta maker turns out noodles of such chewy goodness that everyone leaves beaming. (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, tel. 728 827 705, ukiuki.pl Wabu Sushi becomes a heaven’s gate spiritual experience in Wabu with the evening passing in a blur of beautiful compositions, of silky slithers of fish crowned with expert pinches of this, and little brush strokes of that. That’s all elevated even further by deliciously upscale interiors befitting of the Spire location. (A4) Pl. Europejski 2 (Warsaw Spire), wabu.pl

jewish Tel Aviv “People shouldn’t be excluded from high standards just because they’ve chosen the vegan path,” says Malka Kafka, the owner of Tel Aviv. As such, find a plantbased menu that gives the tastes of Israel a fancy schmancy style – so fancy that Depeche Mode ate here last summer!

(D5) ul. Poznanska 11, restauracjatelaviv.pl

korean Ban Bao After a strong start Ban Bao have settled into mediocrity – and occasionally worse.

The Insider’s last visit was defined by K-Fries that looked suspiciously like oven chips, gristly Korean Fried Chicken and bao buns that were hardly edible. What the hell went wrong? Last chance coming up. (B4) ul. Żelazna 58/62 The Cool Cat Proving something other than just a faddish flash in the fire, The Cool Cat has caught the zeitgeist by the horns and come to represent the hip Powiśle style; casual and convivial and absent of aloofness, it’s a place in which all life seems to gather for a taste of good times.

Refusing to take themselves too seriously, the angle is fun and forward-thinking, something that’s evidenced by way of an occasionally wacky menu of Americanized

Asian food: the K-Fries (a big messy mass of kimchi, chips, bulgogi beef) are spot on.

(F4) ul. Solec 38, tel. 787 698 700 Koreanka A courtyard cubbyhole that’s scuffed, informal and fashionably ramshackle.

Such has been the stir created by it, diners arrive in the knowledge that they’ll be scavenging a table and eating what little might be leftover from another sell-out day. Yet here’s the point of contention: is it really all that’s cracked up? The kimchi is exemplary, but not everything works so well. Though raved about by Warsaw’s Instagrammers, we were left disenchanted by the shallow, empty tastes of the bulgogi. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 59 KoreaTown Rest Here, the ubiquitous KFC (Korean fried chicken) is all crunch and crackle and the bulgogi tender, juicy and the right side of sweet; accompanying them, an assortment of bitey dishes heaving with chilli flecked kimchi, daikon radish and pickled bits and bobs. All very good, but nothing compared to the bossam, braised pork belly scooped up by hand inside glistening perilla leaves: it’s a dish that soothes, gratifies and leaves diners looking every bit as pleased as the pipe-smoking tiger that gazes from the wall. (E9) ul. Olesińska 2, fb.com/KoreaTownRest Miss Kimchi Cheap and cheerful Korean street food served in a small, steamy space that’s frequently packed to the rafters. Box sets come piled high with meat, rice and veg.

The spotlight falls on the bibimbap, a satisfying mess of shredded veg, lively spices, a fried egg and beef bulgogi. This is replenishment in its truest form. (B4) ul. Żelazna 58/62, tel. 570 186 066 Powidoki Set in the cool white cube that is the Museum of Modern Art, you’d think that Powidoki’s riverfront location would make it a highly seasonal destination. Not so.

Though the menu’s brief and the background highly casual, the Korean choices feel more sophisticated and complex than anywhere else, a point that serves to keep business brisk. Served in a turmeric tomato sauce, the pork dumplings are an almost compulsory order. (E2) ul.

Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 22 warsawinsider.pl

55

EAT! Listings Sora Maybe it’s not the best, but it’s certainly the best-known Korean restaurant in town. The tabletop BBQ sets are an essential order and ideal for the shared bonding experience. It all tastes even better with copious quantities of Makkoli wine. (A4) ul. Wronia 45

latin & spanish Casa Pablo “We give Spanish food a new twist,” declares chef Gonzalo de Salas, which explains why, in between pungent cheeses and acorn-fed Bellota ham, we find ourselves demolishing a variety of dishes that buck all notions of tradition: as a starter the beetroot-marinated salmon served with wasabi emulsion is a fine example of this. With de Salas performing balletic tricks in the kitchen, Casa Pablo presents a masterful menu that ripples

with adventure. (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5A, tel.

22 324 5781, casapablo.pl Tapas Gastrobar The popular practice is to order so many plates and bottles that the table becomes a Magic Eye of kaleidoscope patterns.

A great place for sharing and general interaction, the ambiance and quality belies the corporate anonymity of the location. Though the gazapcho is first class it’s bettered by the patatas bravos: fried potatoes in a ballsy tomato sauce.

(A4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 251 1310, tapasbar.pl

mexican Dos Tacos Who doesn’t like asking for something that’s ‘under the counter’. In the case of Dos Tacos, doing so means inquiring about their range of ‘salsa clandestinas’:

extra hot sauces designed for reckless thrill-seekers. But the true secret weapon at Dos Tacos is Isabel Balderas, a Mexican chef that has mastered the bright, bold tastes of her native country. This cuisine has enjoyed a breakout year in Warsaw, but while the millennials clamor over new food trucks and funky little start-ups, Dos Tacos is a timely reminder that the old guard sometimes know best. (D4) ul.

Jasna 22, tel. 22 243 4618, dostacos.pl Gringo Bar A Mexican wave is upon us, and high time too. After years of suffering frozen ingredients, timid flavors and daft Mariachi music to persuade us it’s all authentic, a raft of new cut-price eateries are showing the rest how it’s done.

Cooked and folded by fist bumping lads in back-to-front caps and baggy t-shirts, the food at Gringo is fiery, fresh and full of zing. There are detractors who claim this is a Polonized version of this cuisine, but the informal Gringo remains one of the

La Brasserie Moderne is a modern interpretation of traditional brasserie designed to bring the taste of the French art de vivre right to your table.

Discover a seasonal menu skillfully crafted by our Chef Maciej Majewski, who combined the finest culinary traditions of France with local flavors and a modern twist. Our open kitchen will complement your dining experience by making you feel you’re participating in a live culinary show. During the summer time, we also invite you to enjoy our signature dishes on an outdoor terrace.

E-mail: brasserie.moderne@sofi tel.com Tel.: +48 22 657 83 82 www.facebook.com/brasserie.moderne

Visit us Mon – Sun: 12 p.m. – 11 p.m. | 11 Królewska St | 00-065 Warsaw

56

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2018

EAT! Listings market leaders. (E9) ul. Odolańska 15, tel.

22 848 9523, gringobar.pl La Sirena You don’t even have to think twice when asked to name the best Mexican in the capital. Inspired by the ultra-violent films of Danny Trejo, the hardcore interior heaves with machetes, holy shrines, skulls and wire mesh; but if La Sirena looks fab, it tastes even better. Introducing a new dimension to Warsaw’s parched Mexican landscape, highlights inc. poblano peppers stuffed with pork/beef, peach, apple and apricots, as well as a ‘near death’ salsa that’s finally living up to its name. (D5) ul. Piękna 54 Margarita Kolendra First impressions reveal a venue that looks like it wasn’t so much put together on the cheap as it was put together overnight. In essence, you’re left eyeing a sparse white room emboldened by a vulgar assortment of garish, peasant

fabrics. The menu, though limited and restrictive, is one of those magic works of passion so rarely seen on Warsaw’s Mexican map. These are dishes delivered with real dash and spirit: if in doubt, order the Al Pastor tacos. (F1) ul. Okrzei 35 Spoco Loco It begins with a bead of sweat. Then a couple of tears. Then the real pain starts and doesn’t retract until you’ve rolled on the floor and died for twenty minutes. Spoco Loco’s No. 7 sauce is no laughing matter, and should be treated with respect. But this tiny eatery (it’s essentially one bench) is not founded on gimmicks. The burritos and quesadillas are decent in the comfort food kind of way, and ably supported by a choice of milder sauces that don’t require Red Cross treatment. (H4) ul. Francuska 8, spocoloco.pl Urban Burritos Super casual in style, this crowded little

haunt fills with embassy workers from the US Embassy, a ringing endorsement if ever there was. Offering fillings of pork, beef, chicken and Portobello mushrooms, well-constructed wraps come served with salsas that sing with gusto. (D6) ul.

Piękna 22, urbanburritos.pl

middle eastern

Dom Faraona Sitting just off Nowy Świat, this Egyptian restaurant comes soaked in the soothing scent of the sheesha. The comprehensive menu has plenty of zingy Middle Eastern small plates for starters, though really earns its stripes on account of its grill dishes: the lamb ribs are a house specialty. If you like what you see, visit their

We’ve been thrilling Warsaw with authentic Lebanese tastes for 21 years!

Le Cedre Lounge Grzybowska 5A Tel 22 299 7299

Le Cedre 61

(opposite the zoo) Al. Solidarności 61, Praga Tel 22 670 1166

Le Cedre 84

(opposite the court) Al. Solidarności 84 Tel 22 618 8999

www.lecedre.pl

warsawinsider.pl

57

EAT! Listings cafe in CH Panorama. (E4) ul. Ordynacka 13, dom-faraona.com Le Cedre With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops. (E1) Al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166, lecedre.pl Le Cedre 84 Le Cedre just keep on getting it right.

Authenticity is key in this chainlette (well, there’s another across the river), as you’ll discover when talking to Tony, the Lebanese owner. To see the diversity of this cuisine, order the balbaak (six cold starters) or the byblos (six hot). And food aside, it’s the atmosphere that carries them that extra yard: the whole philosophy of this cuisine is to share and share alike, making it a uniquely engaging experience when dining with friends. (B3) Al. Solidarności 84, tel. 22 618 8999, lecedre.pl Le Cedre Lounge Furnished in voluptuous Middle Eastern

58

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2018

style, the latest subsidiary of the Le Cedre empire bursts with fancy sheesha pipes, extravagant rugs and shimmery satin drapes. It’s a look that’s fun, familiar, intimate and warm. Less encyclopedic than that of its two sister ventures, Le Cedre Lounge has a slimmer menu that introduces several new tastes to fans of Lebanese cuisine. Helplessly more-ish, it’s food that’s in line with the vibey atmosphere and casual air. (C4) ul.

Grzybowska 5A, lecedre.pl Shuk Located behind Hala Banacha in this gradually blooming district of Warsaw, SHUK’s certainly worth the tram ride if you’re not a native Ochotian. An offshoot of the acclaimed Mezze, highlights on our visit included a well-seasoned Arabic soup with lentils and spinach followed by a skillet of fried oyster mushrooms cooked with onions and served alongside harissa topped with rose petals. You’re looking at quite a special place that realigns your mojo on an ashen Warsaw day. ul. Grójecka 127 Sokotra Casting a warm, steamy glow over this corner of Wilcza, Sokotra reveals itself as a well-designed nook with a rough, urban edge: telegraph poles, bare bulbs and exposed lumps of concrete. Yemeni dishes are available though it’s the Indian food that shines – the Madras is intense,

pungent and suitably fiery. (D5) ul. Wilcza 27, tel. 22 270 2766, sokotra.pl

polish Bar Gdański Closed last spring, a brief but thorough refit conducted by the new owner has given this milk bar a late lease of life.

Gone are the plastic plants, putrid smells and that slow feeling of death, replaced instead by a fresher look in keeping with the times. Despite this, the historic core has been retained including the daffodil colors and original floor tiles. How’s the food? Cheap. That’s probably the kindest thing you can say about it. Despite that, Gdański feels like an essential part of the community. (B1) ul. Andersa 33, fb.com/ bargdanskimuranow Belvedere Łazienki Królewskie Set in an imperial age glass orangery, it’s festooned with intricate latticework and botanical exotica. The updated interiors are the work of acclaimed set designer Boris Kudlicka, and lend a fresh, contemporary tone that goes hand in hand with the menu. But behind the gels and emulsions and pretty little swirls, this is cooking of substantial depth; it’s cooking that takes you to the very soul of Polish nature. ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. 22 558 6701, belvedere.com.pl

EAT! Listings Bez Gwiazdek BEST WAWA 2017 “Modern Polish” BEST WAWA 2017 “Chef” Hide the white tablecloth! One of the more discernible trends of late has seen chefs attempt to replicate fine dining standards but in casual surrounds. Few are more qualified to do so than Robert Trzópek, a man whose résumé includes experience gained in Noma and El Bulli.

Seeking to ‘reinterpret forgotten Polish cuisine’, his tasting menu at Bez Gwiazdek focuses on a different region each month – November was a goosey exploration of Kujawa-Pomerania and included such flights of fancy as a goose-stuffed donut for starter. Intimate, forward-thinking, thrilling, it’s no wonder foodies talk about this place with reverence and awe. (E3) ul.

Wiślana 8, bezgwiazdek.com.pl Bistro Pod Sowami Inside, the ground floor restaurant looks chic and elegant: tall windows and long polished tables, a granite bar and sleek looking lines. The menu backtracks through the passages of history to present ‘old Warsaw’ dishes as seen through a distinctly modern lens, with the high point being a 15-course tasting menu for zł. 60. That translates to a barrage of artfully adorned, telescopic-sized plates.

Some are great, but others are even greater. All in, it’s an excellent ambassador for the new face of Old Praga. (F1) ul. Okrzei 26, fb.com/bistropodsowami Ćma by Mateusz Gessler Open round-the-clock, Ćma has rescued the city’s night owls from the evil clutches of the center’s grisly kebab dens. Set against an edgy, moth-themed interior designed by guerilla artist Tomasz Górnicki, this on-trend nightspot elevates late night dining to new heights with a menu that involves modernized Polish delicacies such as sausage with horseradish emulsion, black pudding with apple and… goose stomachs. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63, mateuszgessler.com.pl Czerwony Wieprz (Red Hog) An amusing restaurant that looks back at communism through a rose-tinted lens.

Under the glowering gaze of commie tyrants, staff dressed like obedient members of the party’s Youth League deliver hefty dishes from a cheeky menu that is in itself a collector’s item. (B3) ul. Żelazna

68, tel. 22 850 3144, czerwonywieprz.pl Delicja Polska Looking stately (pink bows, gilt touches and immaculate linen) but never stuffy, Delicja have a modern Polish menu that includes sous-vide salmon marinated in beetroot leaves, then topped with horseradish foam and dill emulsion. Brilliant.

But then so was everything else we tried, including the exquisite seasoned roast beef. (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 64, tel. 22 826 4770, delicjapolska.pl Dom Polski Almost like it was designed for the manor born, Dom Polski has the rarefied atmosphere of a country retreat: bow-tied staff who click their heels, decorative antiques and a menu that’s a sumptuous anthology of posh Polish cooking. When you need to give visitors a sense of classic Warsaw, Dom Polski is the first out of the hat. (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 2432, restauracjadompolski.pl Dom Polski Belwederska Accessed via curling pathways and bursting shrubs this restaurant conjures images of an aristocrat’s manor. The air of privilege matches a menu that’s rich in fanciful classics such as their signature goose. Elegant and exquisite, consider it your default choice for a taste of true Poland. (F8) ul. Belwederska 18A, tel. 22 840 5060, restauracjadompolski.pl Elixir by Dom Wódki There are some who call the food here ‘deconstructed Polish’. In actuality, ‘reconstructed’ would be closer to the mark. The chef has taken local classics and redrafted the recipes with the swoosh of a contemporary pen. The outcome is a pleasure from start to finish: a life affirming żurek, a tartar that could fulfill ambassadorial duties for Poland, and a handsome beef tenderloin sprinkled with crispy potato shavings.

Thoughtful pairings with lesser-known, boutique vodkas add another dimension that serves to complete this pleasing, patriotic adventure. (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl Folk Gospoda If you missed the last train to Zakopane, then a night in Folk Gospoda is the next best thing. Kitted out like a typical tavern

in the Tatras, it’s a good-humored celebration of mountain-slope traditions: heaps of meat and lard with plenty of vodka and song in between. (B3) ul. Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605, folkgospoda.pl Jaś & Małgosia Insouciant one moment, your best friend the next, the staff at Jaś & Małgosia show the two faces of Polish service brilliantly.

Reactivated a couple of years ago, this gem has a story dating back to the 60s, and a great atmosphere primed for simple food and local drinks. (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 57, tel. 502 033 711, klubjasimalgosia.pl Kieliszki na Próżnej You’ll find Kieliszki na Próżnej, the latest restaurant to mark the rehabilitation of Próżna, so named after the 1,116 wineglasses that hang tantalizingly over the bar. As an anchor feature the suspended glassware is arresting, and equaled only by a long stretch of wall art doodled by Mariusz Tarkawian. The food matches up to the interiors, with a modern Polish menu that – on our visit – involved a thick, brilliantly spreadable foie gras pate, a thick slab of brawn and a delicate piece of moist Baltic cod. It’s pure seasonal comfort. (C3) ul. Próżna 12, tel. 501 764 674, kieliszkinaproznej.pl Mała Polana Smaków Put simply, it works on every level: from the service to the space – outside, a terrace featuring upcycled crates overlooking Morskie Oko, and on the inside, a cute little room with woodsy bits and big glass jars of mystery ingredients. It’s casual, but still fit for more serious roles: e.g. girlfriend night. And the food: exceptional.

Lots of seasonally changing choices that on our visit meant salmon sausage matched with beetroot and horseradish sauce along with pinches of lavender and fennel. (F9) ul. Belwederska 13/44, tel. 22 400 8048, polanasmakow.pl Podwale Piwna Kompania Prowling mountain bands generate a beer hall atmosphere, while the courtyard garden – designed to replicate a Mitteleuropa square – is one of the best you’ll find. But the obscene portions can’t mask what is pretty poor food. Go there for the experience, if nothing else. (D2) ul.

Podwale 25, tel. 22 635 6314, podwale25.pl warsawinsider.pl

59

Traditional Polish Cuisine,

Ĺťurek

(traditional sour rye soup)

Golonka

(roast pork knuckle)

Placki Ziemniaczane

(potato pancake with gulash)

We serve Polish dishes on hot pans and sizzling cast iron and are winners of many culinary competitions Hand making our own pierogi since 1913 Pierogi Truskawkowe Strawberry dumplings

but don’t miss the pierogi OUR LOCATIONS IN WARSAW U L . K R A KO W S K I E P R Z E D M I E Ś C I E 5 5 | T E L . 2 2 6 9 2 7 2 0 4 U L . N O W Y Ś W I AT 6 4 | T E L . 2 2 6 9 2 4 1 3 5 AL. JEROZOLIMSKIE 28 | TEL. 22 826 7484 U L . F R E TA 1 | T E L . 2 2 8 3 1 6 1 9 0 UL. ŚWIĘTOJAŃSKA 13 | TEL. 22 635 6109 U L . F R E TA 1 8 | T E L . 2 2 6 3 5 7 9 5 9

EAT! Listings Restauracja Pod Gigantami All pomp and splendor, huge portraits of monarchs in ermine stare down from the walls; pristine parquet floors gently creak underfoot; from another chamber, the sound of clinking glasses whispers through the air. Yet as much as the interior makes an impact it fails to steal the show. That belongs to Paweł Zieliński, a chef whose biography includes a stint at the Michelin starred L’Ecrivain in Dublin. Now back in Poland, his menu is a patriotic proclamation of all that is good.

It’s here the Insider enjoyed its favorite żurek of 2016. (E5) Al. Ujadowskie 24, tel.

22 629 2312, podgigantami.pl Restauracja Polska “Różana” The rarified atmosphere of Różana is a pleasure indeed. Close to the frontline of Mokotów / Śródmieście, you’d never guess the proximity of the center. Seated in their garden, one feels removed from the city – a fountain burbles quietly in the background, starlings hop around

the trees. From the inside, one hears the distant tinkle of the house pianist. Just being here is a thrill in itself, and the food is a Polish dining extravaganza served from the top table: farmhouse duck, saddle of venison, etc. (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 22 848 1225 Schabowy Red gingham tablecloths are just about the only decorative element in this plain Jane restaurant; aesthetics don’t figure highly, and that much is clear through an approach to plating presentation that’s best described as basic. But boy, they can cook – simple but delicious, the food here is Polish home cooking at its best: great ingredients used to even greater effect.

As the name suggests, schabowy is the star, and here you’ll find it served in three different forms. ul. Obrzeżna 1 Słoik Jarheads will love Słoik, a place lined with glass jars brimming with colorful

ingredients and bright preserves. Find natural Polish produce and traditionalsounding dishes treated with a careful and contemporary hand. The approach pits modernist against classic, and the winner is, well, you. This is traditional Polish food updated for the discerning, latter day palate – and it’s really quite something. (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 600 396 688, restauracjasloik.pl Stary Dom A classic restaurant in style and history: back in the day it was a favorite haunt of jockeys and race goers from the horse track nearby. Pre-war recipes form the basis of the menu, with the team using seasonal produce and the latest technology to bring out its best. ul. Puławska 104/106, tel. 22 646 4208, restauracjastarydom.pl Talerzyki Presenting big flavors on small plates, here’s a place that miniaturizes the more

Restaurant & Pastry Shop Warsaw, Żurawia 47/49, open: 7.00 - 22.00 reservations: tel. +48 (22) 621 82 68 Pastry Shop Warsaw, Felińskiego 52, open: 9.00 - 20.00

smakiwarszawy.pl

62

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2018

EAT! Listings glorious aspects of the nation’s cuisine and does so in style. The usual suspects are here – silvery slithers of herring; glistening pickles; and beef tartare that flushes raw redness – and if any extra oomph was needed then that’s supplied by classic, old school cocktails served by smooth-talking gents in crisp shirts and braces. Smart and stellar but never silly or over-played, Talerzyki manages the improbable by Polonizing the concept of tapas and coming out trumps. (D6) ul.

Mokotowska 33/35 U Fukiera New arrivals looking to get a grasp of local cuisine have many options in varying price brackets. U Fukiera is definitely in the big spend category, but visitors come away with a common sense of wonderment. That’s largely due to enchanting interiors that have guests exploring twinkling chambers that unravel like a fairytale. Set in a 500 year old townhouse, the beautiful backdrop is accompanied

by a grand menu of duck, venison, veal and lamb. (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 27 (Old Town Market Square), tel. 22 831 1013, ufukiera.pl Warszawski Sen By Mateusz Gessler A quite stunning restaurant dominated by dark geometric patterns and the installations and ideas of guerilla artist Tomasz Górnicki. Once you’ve caught your breath and snapped off a few pics for your Instagram, settle in for a menu that gives Polish ingredients a highly contemporary treatment. If you thought Hala Koszyki was buzzing, then this edgy space is perhaps its biggest buzz of all. ul.

Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki), mateuszgessler.com.pl

Zapiecek Seven Warsaw locales, with our

favorite found in the vaulted passages of Świętojańska. The menu is highly traditional, with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’. It’s for the pierogi though for which they’re famous; find approx. fifty types delivered by servers dressed like saucy country maids. Locations inc. ul.

Nowy Świat 64, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska 13, tel. 22 635 61 09, & ul. Wańkowicza 1, zapiecek.eu Zielony Niedźwiedź A refuge of swish fancy, think of the Green Bear as a place of sanctuary and seclusion and of chic, high living. From the outset, you’re made to feel that good things will happen, and this they do – certified by Poland’s nascent Slow Food movement, the menu gives big billing to the suppliers that keep the pantry stocked. But the truth is, these aren’t the only stars of the show. Led by Wojciech Deres, the kitchen team are an accomplished bunch. The Insider’s November visit included a rousing goose terrine

Focaccia Ristorante Modern take on Italian cuisine

by Samuele Mariani

tel.: +48 22 829 69 69 ul. Senatorska 13/15, Warsaw/Old Town restauracja@focaccia.pl, fb.com/restauracjafocaccia www.focaccia.pl

409677 insider focaccia czerwiec 144x102.indd 1

warsawinsider.pl

2018-05-23 16:07:32

63

EAT! Listings and finely balanced veal sweetbreads.

When skies are cold and granite, it’s food like this that helps you carry on. (E4) ul.

Smolna 4, tel. 795 794 784, kafezn.pl

scandinavian

GREAT FOOD

Nabo The décor is, we’re told, typical Danish cafe – bold open windows, simple lines, high shelves filled with books and games on the table. But what is Danish food? There’s Old Danish on the menu: meatballs and open face sandwiches with meat and fish in various textural configurations and then there’s New Danish: an emerging trend towards fresh, seasonal food (no microwave oven at Nabo), with locally sourced and innovatively concocted ingredients. ul.

Zakręt 8, tel. 22 842 0256, nabocafe.pl

seafood SEASONED POLISH STEAKS

L’Arc French in style, seafood dominates the menu of L’Arc with the lobster and oysters a particular standout. Full review coming soon. (E8) ul. Puławska 16, larc.pl

WONDERFUL SERVICE

Beef n’ Pepper ul. Nowogrodzka 47a tel. +48 785 025 025 mon-sat: 12.00 - 24.00 sun: 12.00 - 23.00

64

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2018

Lokal na Rybę Open just three days a week, the limited hours have created a supply / demand situation which sees this basic-looking venue often packed out. The menu is revised on a weekly basis though never really goes beyond three starters and a couple of mains – but that’s all they need to captivate the public. In recent times, octopus goulash and smoked herring pierogi have played distinctive roles. (D9) ul. Kwiatowa 1/3/4, fb.com/lokalnarybe U Rysia Devoid of frills bar a glowing neon sign and a brooding mural of Jesus, it looks like a Polish fish restaurant should – basic but with an undercurrent of bustle that keeps the mood bright. It tastes like the real thing as well. Sourcing their catch

from the freshwater lakes of northern Poland, the offer is divided into fish that have been smoked, steamed, fried or baked. Check out the perch ‘chips’ fried in batter. (C4) ul. Marszałkowska 140 (enter from ul. Rysia), urysia.com.pl

specialty food shops Bazar Olkuska Once a sad little side street, Olkuska has evolved to become just about the worst kept secret in Warsaw. Home to the city’s top eco-market, trips here end with shopping bags filled with French cheeses, Italian hams, Hungarian sausages and fresh fruit and veg. (E10) ul. Olkuska 12 Befsztyk The Prokopowicz family has come a long way since launching Befsztyk in 1994. Top restaurants, celebs and ex-pats are listed as clients, and all agree that this operation is indisputably ‘top of the chops’. Find steaks seasoned for three weeks, glutenfree smoked meats, Merino lamb, BBQ kits and so much more. Home delivery, internet ordering and English-speaking staff round out this legend. many locations, befsztyk.pl BioBazar With its previous home in Wola undergoing a substantial redevelopment, the BioBazar has moved to Mokotów. At the forefront of Poland’s food revolution, it’s a place that shines a light on ecologically certified goods and produce. Fresh fish, cheese, eggs, bread, cured sausages, honey... on it goes. Comprehensive in its pitch, everything you need to pursue a bright, happy life is here on this spot. ul.

Wołoska 3, biobazar.com.pl (B4) ul. Żelazna 51/53, biobazar.org.pl Dobrze Co-op The Dobrze Food Co-op aims to ‘widen access to healthy, seasonal food’ while also supporting sustainable agriculture.

Founded in summer, 2014, the project collaborates with over 20 farms and local businesses and sells fresh vegetables and fruit alongside cereals, dried goods and other bits and pieces. ul. Wilcza 29A &

EAT! Listings ul. Andersa 27, dobrze.waw.pl Forteca Kregliccy Spot the stars of Warsaw’s restaurant scene perusing the stalls at this weekly farmers’ market. Held each Wednesday, look for Pan Ziółko, Poland’s first celebrity farmer (!), Portobello’s from the country’s only organic mushroom farm and the magical yogurts from Mleczna Droga Manufaktura Serów. ul. Zakroczymska 12, kregliccy.eu/forteca Hala Gwardii Taking its cue from the market places of Lisbon and Marseilles, Hala Gwardii aims to reprise its former pre-war role as the city’s best-known food market. Designed to complement rather than compete with Hala Mirowska outside, the market is a sensory big bang with dozens of stalls specializing in everything from cheese and sausages, to rolled Thai ice cream and posh pet supplies. (C3) Pl. Mirowska 2, fb.com/halagwardii Kosher Shop Snuck to the side of the synagogue, stock up on Kosher produce from the friendly store, before hitting up the falafel tent outside for, aside from the obvious, kosher ice cream. (C4) ul. Twarda 6 Kram Housed in the DeFabryka development, Kram taps into Warsaw’s growing mania for artisan produce to present posh, made-on-the-day bread, fresh fruit and veg from local farms, as well as assorted goodies and pre-packaged items from acclaimed firms such as Rude Health, Cherry Tree, Mleczna Droga, etc. Covering every base imaginable, it’s cult status looks assured. ul. Duchnicka 3, facebook. com/kram.nativeingredients Kuchnie Świata The first stop for most ex-pats, with an offer that includes food and drinks from across the globe. The choice is vast but mainly involves tinned and packaged products. Internet ordering now also available. Various locations, kuchnieswiata. com.pl Mojo Picon Mojo Picon specializes in vending Spanish groceries, expressly the produce of the Canary Islands. A creditable charcuterie

section is enhanced by an array of cheese, wine and jarred exotica. (D5) ul. Poznańska 3, mojopicon.pl Ostra Kuchnia A superb internet shop retailing quite literally the hottest sauces known to man: brands include Blair’s, Dave’s, El Yucateco, Mad Dog, Melinda’s and many more besides. Also sell jalapenos, chili peppers, salsas and pastes. Polish-only website, but easy to navigate and superb customer service. ostrakuchnia.pl Targ Śniadaniowy The idea is a bit different as it is out in the open air, on the grass, so good weather is a must. Part healthy food market, part breakfast picnic, part educational space, part chance to get your two wheeler fixed but above all, an idyllic way to spend a Saturday morning in a beautiful part of town. Now also present in three other locations: check their web for details.

Al. Wojska Polskiego, tel. 508 121 891, targsniadaniowy.pl

steak houses

Beef n’ Pepper Beef N’ Pepper presents itself in a buzzy urban flash of violet blue lighting, slick banquette seating and open kitchen action.

Straight away, you get the feeling of being in a place that’s alive and active, a feeling that’s affirmed by a busy backlit bar from behind which black-shirted staff fling sunny cocktails for the after-work crowd.

Of course, it’s the food angle that takes precedence, and at Beef N’ Pepper that translates to a decent choice of surf’n’turf.

Highlights include thumping T-bones and a 60-day aged Argentinean top loin. (C5) ul. Nowogrodzka 47A, tel. 785 025 025, beefandpepper.pl Butchery & Wine The Sarf London-born Bertha oven has revolutionized the way steak is cooked, retaining moisture in a way no-one thought possible. Expect robust pieces of animal full of big, brawny tastes, but there’s so much more than just meat: warsawinsider.pl

65

EAT! Listings starters involve a sea bass ceviche that pings with citrusy flavor not to mention more-ish pork crackling that pop like fire bangers in the mouth. A place of energy and ambition, it’s a great mix of both new and classic. Bookings advised. (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 502 3118, butcheryandwine.pl Downtown Restaurant There’s now a few candidates for Warsaw’s best steak, and Downtown have certainly upped the erm, stakes, with their new menu. Yes, the doors of Downtown are a gateway to heaven – particularly true if, like us, your vision of heaven is a rich green field filled with fat, juicy cows.

But don’t for one moment assume the offer ends with cows. (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental Hotel, level 2), tel. 22 328 8745 Ed Red Warszawa You can tell they’re serious about their meat just by looking at the starters: big, juicy marrow bones, mountain oysters, blood sausage and calf’s brain. The steaks are the calling card though, and here you’ll find them dry aged and consumed with the aid of hunting knives. The desserts seem a lumpy afterthought, but they get enough right elsewhere (even decent craft beer at the bar) to keep that little more than a mild annoyance. Pl. Mirowski 1, edred.pl

Hoża Wine and steak: it sounds so simple, but Hoża have taken two simple pleasures to another level. It’s an ebullient space with service right out of charm school, and a kitchen team with a real knowledge of cows. A red-blooded affair, the menu is a steak sensation and well paired with a handpicked wine list. (D5) ul. Hoża 25A, tel.

603 778 275, hoza.warszawa.pl Merliniego A classic looking steakhouse that swirls in shadow, brickwork and elegant touches, it’s a place to immerse yourself in an atmosphere that’s all surreptitious conversation and distant clinking glasses.

The steaks are out-of-this world, with USDA prime beef from New York’s legendary Ottomanelli & Sons and Scottish beef from London’s Smithfield Market.

On our last visit we splurged on the Grade 9+ wagyu ‘kobe’ rib-eye and found ourselves eating the steak of a lifetime.

Simply amazing. (E10) ul. Merlineiego 5, merliniego.pl Prime Cut Aimed at a higher class of customer, this showy steakhouse has shaken up the meat sector since it’s star studded launch at the beginning of summer. The beautiful, contemporary design is matched by a faultless menu – full report coming soon.

(C4) ul. Twarda 18, primecut.pl

thai

San Thai Informal, airy surrounds; fair price points; and a menu that covers enough bases while never becoming overwhelming. Though open for just a few months, so far San Thai have found themselves commended for their fiery recipes and diverse range of dishes. A half-decent wine selection adds to the impression that this street is taking off as something of a scene. (C3) ul. Próżna 10, restauracjasanthai.pl Thai Thai In terms of design it’s little short of perfect: gold vaulted interiors lend a muted glow to a largely black on black space while serene looking Buddha’s peer on the diners below. As for the food, that’s one big success story with plenty of lively flavors and dynamic colors. The Tom Yang Kung, a deeply nourishing fish broth that awakens the senses with a sharp, spicy jolt, is a must! (C2) Pl. Teatralny 3, tel. 601 818 283, thaithai.pl Thaisty The most successful business model pioneered in recent years? That’s the work of Thaisty, a bright, cheerful spot with a ‘street style’ and moderate prices – queues, at times, stretch out the door.

Vivid colors and a busy open kitchen lend the place a happy buzz that lasts through the day, yet despite this many have voiced concerns that Thaisty’s runaway success has come at a cost to the overall quality. Even so, the BBQ skewers remain a good order. (C2) Pl. Bankowy 4, tel. 730 000 024, thaisty.pl Why Thai A calming, almost holistic interior sets the tone for a meal dominated by the rich and aromatic tastes of Thailand.

For a lively, spicy start begin with a mango and cashew salad, before moving forward and onto their celebrated curries. Imported chefs keep the flavors authentic, with the pad Thai being something of a house favorite. (E5) ul.

Wiejska 13, tel. 22 625 7698, whythai.pl

66

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2018

EAT! Listings Wi-Taj Despite the name, it’s actually the cuisine of Vietnam that is the dominant entity in this restaurant. There is the odd moment of madness (glazed cherries appearing at random), but in general Wi-Taj does a grand job of representing a kitchen that hasn’t always enjoyed the greatest publicity in Warsaw. The crunchy, perky nem are a fine way to start, but it’s the steaming bowls of pho that have this Insider promising to return. As for prices, these rarely climb north of zł. 30. (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 4

ukrainian Kanapa This swish villa is a thoughtful essay in understated elegance: antique and classy, yet with enough eclectic touches to that add that little sense of home. The food fits the backdrop with cooking that feels

adventurous in style yet traditional in its taste. The borscht, presented in a huge, hollowed out cabbage, incorporates cooked beetroot, stewed pears and plums, chunks of meat and a wallop of sour cream – these rich and raucous flavors are offset by highly sophisticated alternatives such as blobs of pike caviar and oyster cream on a delicate, crispy fish skin. (E8) ul. Narbutta 10, fb.com/ kanapa.restauracja

vegan & wholefood 30 Koszyków In light of the lavish, local vegan choice, critics could call the menu at 30 Koszyków a little mundane – hummus peaked three years ago, didn’t it? Yet while the concept might not feel new, the execution does. From a limited set

of choices, Koszyków’s fast expanding customer base enjoy a range of kick-ass hummus recipes that have acquired a serious following: the beetroot is highly recommended. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 30, fb.com/30koszykow Edamame Vegan Sushi Sushi without its star ingredient sounds ridiculous, but this vegan sushi joint manages to out-manoeuver its traditional competitors by replacing below-par fish with fresh, vegetarian produce: sugar snap peas, radish, carrots, asparagus, etc. The results are both magical and addictive, and leave you wondering if vegan sushi stands to be Warsaw’s next trend. (D5) ul. Wilcza 11, edamame.pl Falafelove Cramped, sweaty and uncomfortable, Falafelove’s customers choose to overlook the aesthetic shortcomings for one very special reason: this is falafel that sets a new benchmark. Recommended is

H A R M O N I Z E D BY C H E F G A B R I E L D E G A R C I A , D I S C O V E R W H AT H A P P E N S W H E N T H E PA S S I O N AT E TA S T E S O F S PA I N M E E T T H E M I N I M A L I S T P R E C I S I O N O F J A PA N …

68

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2018

EAT! Listings the spicy wrap, comprising of ‘red falafel’, humus, harissa, sundried tomatoes and tahini. If there’s space, join the others on the terrace outside. (C2) ul. Senatorska 40 Falla Both pricing and location combine to keep this venue blocked solid with a muddled mass of students from the uni nearby. Looking simple, maybe even spartan, crowds flock to this corner unit for recipes inspired by the Middle East and Asia: huge wraps tightly packed with pungent kimchi; generous pans brimming with shakshouka; and an array of hummus in unfamiliar forms – chipotle, coriander, carrot and more. (E3) ul. Oboźna 9, fb.com/falla.wawa Krowazywa Tatts, hats and plaid shirts aplenty in Krowarzywa: a survivor of the hipster era, for many it’s the epitome of Warsaw’s vegan scene. The burgers set a benchmark that all but a few fail to surpass. (D5) ul.

Marszałkowska 27/35, tel. 881 777 894 ul.

Hoża 29/31, krowarzywa.pl ul. Hoża 29/31, krowarzywa.pl Kuchnia Konfliktu First came a food truck, then a cargo container. Now, Kuchnia Konfliktu have a legit address they can finally call home.

First founded to provide work for refugees fleeing conflict zones, this social project has won acclaim not just for social initiative, but more importantly its food. With employees hailing from the likes of Iran, Afghanistan, Chechnya and Iraq, prepare to dive deep into the exotic. Full review next issue. (D5) ul. Wilcza 60

Leonardo Verde Geometric patterns, plant arrangements and the large format illustrative artwork of Dominique A. Faryno decorate Leonardo Verde, an upmarket – but

inexpensive – Italian joint. Pizza is the forte – order the ‘hot romantic’, a combo featuring chili, avocado and tabasco. (D5) ul. Poznańska 13, fb.com/leonardo.verde. restaurant Lifemotiv Aiming to ‘uncover the new potential of millet, buckwheat, kale, beet and cabbage’, Lifemotiv is living proof of how far dining in shopping center food courts has advanced. Kick-off the day with a hummus wrap or an acai smoothie bowl, or check-in later for a Portobello & BBQ burger, or a zingy Mango & Chipotle salad.

Keeping in mind the rest of the world, non-vegetarians have the option to add free range chicken to their salad, wraps or bowls of kasha. ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), lifemotiv.com.pl Lokal Vegan Bistro Aside from a small menu consisting of more standard vegan offers, Lokal keep Homer Simpson characters in mind with

The Pink Lobster is enthusiastically visited by connoisseurs of the good things in life: find top range produce given the fine dining treatment courtesy of chef and co-owner Jarek Walczyk (President of the Chef’s Club Foundation, Head Chef Bocuse d’Or Poland, and the brand ambassador for 92, ZT Kruszwica, and Bursztyn cheese).

UL. ŻURAWIA 6/12, PINKLOBSTER.PL MOB: +48 572 672 772 RESERVATIONS: KONTAKT@PINKLOBSTER.PL

warsawinsider.pl

69

EAT! Listings regular guest slots for street food that’s given a full vegan makeover. Offhand, that’s meant vegan kebabs, cheesesteaks, burgers and zapiekanka, all of which have been pretty damn good. (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, 517 615 122 Momencik Steamy, tight and sweaty, this pokey subterranean cavern has one key thing going for it: burritos that outrank the majority of ‘proper Mexicans’ in town. The salsas, too, are magnificent (ooh, pineapple), arguably the best in the city. (D5) ul. Poznańska 16 Vegan Ramen Shop Co-joining two fads is always a risky business – just ask Loco Mexicana. All of a sudden, the focus doesn’t fall on just getting one thing right, but two. But despite this double-headed challenge Vegan Ramen have struck gold on account of their complex bowls of restorative goodness: their fan base extends way beyond the boundaries of Saska Kępa. Enjoy in a cool interior filled with cute Japanese props on dozens of ‘levitating shelves’.

(G3) ul. Finlandzka 12A Veg Deli An entrance beset with candles, plant pots and seasonal veg charms people in, and they tend to stay on to dine on creative vegetarian options that nearly always hit the spot. The tacos are a bit of a disappointment, but the quinoa burger

is fabulous, and the homemade Russian pierogi an absolute highlight. Even committed meat eaters recognize there’s something special going on here. (E3) ul.

Radna 14 Wars i Sawa w Nowym With its wide spaces, high ceilings and echoing sense of clatter, there’s something of a canteen spirit to Wars i Sawa.

Occupying a chunk of the Nowy Teatr, it gets particularly busy after performances – and rightly so. Fresh, seasonal and well-presented, the food here is vegan, healthy and unerringly popular. (E9) ul.

Madalińskiego 10/16 Weganeracja Warsaw’s vegan revolution is spreading outwards, and with places like Weganeracja waving the manner there’s no reason why it’ll stop there. Hits include towering beetroot burgers, chili sin carne and possibly the only zucchini bigos in the city. The desserts are of particular note, with recent highlights numbering a chocolate cream tart with avocado. ul. Domaniewska 22A Youmiko Vegan Sushi Exceptional in every respect, Youmiko’s tasting menu is one of the undisputed highlights of what’s become known as the vegan square mile. “Our aim,” declares their manifesto, “is to mix traditional Japanese approaches with Polish creativity and surprise you with new textures

and flavors.” Mission accomplished. (D5) ul. Hoża 62, youmiko.vg

vietnamese Oh My Pho A busy, family-run joint, OMP’s specific claim to fame is what many are terming the best and most authentic pho in the ward. Steamy and aromatic, this is pho as it should be: full of big herby thwacks, ribboning noodles, and soft strips of meat in a clear, restorative stock. Often cited as being the ‘soul of the nation’, just a few noisy slurps are all that’s needed to corroborate the life-affirming goodness of this beautiful broth... (D5) ul. Wilcza 32, fb.com/ohmyphowilcza Toan Pho Toan Pho’s bowls of soup with rice noodles come highly recommended; as does the chaos intrinsic to this type of casual Asian eatery. The short menu is in Vietnamese with Polish decoding – although you can ask for an English version. (D4) ul.

Chmielna 5/7, tel. 888 147 307 Vietnamka BEST WAWA 2017 “Casual Dining” Divey but lively, diners step down into Vietnamka to find a shouty little lair of mint green walls and wobbly wooden tables. Infused with a gentle sense of chaos, there’s a certain charm at work that feels authentic and convincing. As for the food, you suspect that’ll be ’nam good when TV chef Kurt Scheller wonders in for a take-out. And boy, yes it is. Squiggled onto a crumpled sheet of paper, menu items include giant bowls of warming pho, steamed goat with lemongrass and more-ish spring rolls. Exceptional in every respect, the cooking here sails Warsaw’s Asian scene into uncharted waters. (D5) ul.

Poznańska 7, fb.com/VietnamkaPoznanska Viet Street Food Bistro What started out as a roaming food truck has settled down into life as a legitimate restaurant. Widely looked upon as the source of some of the best Vietnamese chow this city’s ever seen, the small menu reveals steaming bowls of pho and banh mi baguettes loaded with meat and greens. (H4) ul. Królowej Aldony 5/2, fb.com/vietstreetfoodpl

70

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2018

DRINK!

THE COMEBACK! PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Booted out of their original location in Mirów, this legendary dive bar hopes to rekindle the glory years at a new address on that bit of Żurawia most forget exists – all that is, aside from their ardent band of fans.

Surviving the move from their former digs is the giant mural of a weather-worn babcia, and it’s under her watery gaze that drinkers congregate to make the most of a decent fridge generously stocked with specialty beers from Poland’s more maverick producers. Also successfully enduring the challenges of their cross-city move is the underlying spirit that made them so famous. Defiantly arty in its character, the creative mood that prevails manifests itself in a quirky design that involves retro accents, refurbed armchairs, a neon of Lennon and the compelling illustrations of Izabela Wójtowicz. It might not be the identical replica of the Chwila we all loved, but that doesn’t mean it’s in any way inferior.

Miejsce Chwila ul. Żurawia 47

warsawinsider.pl

71

Vodka Culture

GIVE IT A SHOT Opened last month amid a storm of international publicity, the Polish Vodka Museum looks set to become one of the city’s big sights…

T

he regeneration of Praga’s Koneser Factory took a significant step forward in mid-June with the official opening of the Polish Vodka Museum. Allegedly the first museum of its kind anywhere in the world (a point, incidentally, that can be argued given the existence of the Muzeum Wódki on ul. Wierzbowa), it forms the key cornerstone of a wider complex that will eventually include offices, apartments, retail units and Poland’s first Moxy Hotel – a style-forward brand falling under the patronage of the Marriott group.

Set inside a 19th century distillery that once kept occupying Russian troops supplied with vodka, the museum is spread across five thematic exhibition halls and a screening room.

Documenting the nation’s 600-year-old love affair with the tipple, visits kick-off in earnest with displays that trace the origins of the drink, its early begin-

72

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2018

nings as a medicinal supplement, and its gradual acceptance into mainstream society. By the mid-16th century, we learn, such was Poland’s widespread affinity to the drink that it was already being condemned by European prigs.

“Getting drunk is a commendable thing to do in Poland,” lamented Nuncio Giulio Ruggieri in a 1568 letter addressed to Pope Pius V, “and seen as proof of honesty and good manners; those who stay sober are disliked and distrusted.”

As meticulously detailed as these opening rooms are, even the nerdy elements are interlaced with dry bursts of humor. For instance, one display quotes a 17th century guidebook’s definition of the perfect innkeeper: “he shall remain incessantly sober, alert, watchful and prudent, as fantasy and bedlam are bred by any such human gathering; dancers inter-mingle with thievery and assailants to the misery

of all present: some drink while others tussle.” Centuries on, and these are sentiments that still feel oddly relevant to the shot bars of Warsaw.

Designed by Mirosław Nizio (also credited with creating the interiors of Polin), the overall style is slick and visually enticing and reaches a zenith inside a room stacked with glinting bottles. Laid out like royal jewels, it’s difficult not to be awed by this gleaming collection of salvaged vessels. Yet the true triumph, that’s probably saved to last: wrapping up the experience, visitors enter an interactive chamber in which they can learn about salutation customs, test their alcohol knowledge on a quiz machine and strap on goggles that demonstrate the disorienting effects of over consumption (tip: don’t try this if hungover). Impressive in every respect, expect it to become firmly established as one of the city’s essential museums.

Polish Vodka Museum Pl. Konesera 1, muzeumpolskiejwodki.pl

Food & Drink Zoni Look who’s back! Hailed by many as Poland’s most maverick chef, Aleksander Baron returns to the gastronomic frontline having traded in the hipster era confines of Solec 44 for Zoni, the banner restaurant of the Koneser complex.

Aesthetically stunning, it represents a complete escape from the grungy bunker from which the chef earned his name. Likewise, you get the sense that this is a cook that’s chosen to step up a level and prove to all that he’s really worth the hype. Known for his devotion to local ingredients and forgotten techniques, few push boundaries in the same way as Baron: where else, after all, will you find a dessert of calf brain mousse with honeycomb and caramel? The year’s still young, but this is already the Insider’s hot tip to be the launch of the year.

WuWu

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Open round-the-clock, this 24-hour bar is the place in which to enjoy a prodigious choice of vodka inside a chic, dimly-lit environment that resounds to the singalong hits of communist Poland. Serving classic drinking bites (sour cream and herring, beef tartar, etc.) and an array of expertly fixed cocktails, it’s a spot that promises to become a rite of passage for the higher class of night owl. If this is gentrification, we’re all for it.

warsawinsider.pl

73

Coffee Culture

THE COLD PHWOAR!

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Uri Wollner of the awardwinning Cophi talks about cold brew coffee: the what, why and how!

74

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2018

Cophi ul. Hoża 58/60, cophi.pl

With lighter roasts you’ll notice more sour flavors such as lemongrass, grapefruit, etc.

Since most people have a regular coffee they use at home, it’s best to start with that as your palate will be accustomed to it.

WI: Cold brew: explain…

UW: In short, it’s coffee prepared by placing ground coffee in cold water then letting it sit for 16-24 hours. Later, you filter it and… voila! A longer explanation… holy cow! Firstly, we should be calling is Mazagran, which was the title French soldiers gave it in 1840 when they were stationed at an Algerian fortress of the same name.

Because it didn’t demand fire / heat to prepare, was easy to transport and could be kept in small bottles it was an ideal solution

for soldiers fighting in the trenches. It’s got a fascinating story.

So, it’s not a modern fad…

More to the point, I believe it’s here to stay – and it’ll only get more interesting. There’s no cooking / boiling involved, so flavors that are altered or lost with your standard cup of Joe are maintained.

Coffee can have the natural flavor of peaches, almonds, pineapple, etc., but these flavors are almost always hidden when using warm temperatures and overtaken

by tastes of dark chocolate, roasted nuts, burned wood, etc. So, in truth, cold brew is very pleasant to drink if you find coffee too harsh.

Does it matter what coffee you use?

Yes, yes, yes! Firstly, support your local business – they can guarantee the date the coffee was roasted which in turn is an assurance of freshness.

Next, roasting: if the coffee is a dark roast then the darker flavors will come out (think of burned toast or caramel, for example).

Any inside tricks to keep in mind?

There is no secret, but there are important procedures to remember and follow: i) grinding: think sugar powder and sugar. One is like flour, the other like beach sand. The finer the grind, the stronger the flavor and the deeper the body; ii) amount: I recommend starting from a ratio of 1:10m, that is, 100g of coffee for a liter of water; iii) type of coffee: if you’re prepping cold brew for the first time, start with using your regular morning coffee.

You’ll be blown away; iv) time: start

from 16 hours though if you want a lighter flavor then 12 will do. For stronger, look at 24 hrs. Experimenting is a fun way to learn about your personal preferences.

Cold brew at home – how!

Start from a liter: take a sock or a cheese cloth, put the coffee in, then pour the water.

Next, seal the container, stick it in the fridge, wait the desired time then remove the coffee sock and filter it once or twice to get rid of the ‘mud’. Give it a mix and enjoy! But wait up – natural flavorings such as orange peel, lemon, lime, cocoa nibs, rosemary, apples…

All these things will give your cold brew an extra dimension.

Or how about being really adventurous and using apple juice instead of a water base (or both). Boom!

warsawinsider.pl

75

DRINK! Listings bars & pubs 2Koła Sat, as it is, in the abandoned backspaces and brickyards behind Zachodnia station, 2Koła feels like Warsaw’s dirtiest little secret. Still stained and smelling of grease and oil, this former garage is piled high with dented sofas, warehouse palettes and motorcycling detritus. Yet the supremely friendly owners have turned this shadowy lair into a cult bar that’s specifically celebrated for rowdy jam sessions that cover everything from ragtime to rockabilly. ul. Tunelowa 2B 8 Dzień Tygodnia Though the owners remain the same, the unit that once housed Kwadrat couldn’t be more different: no longer a grungey, shadowy space, it’s been rebooted with lots of brash, bursts of color, strings of fairy lights and pops of modern art.

What’s not been lost is the amiable sense of gentle chaos: buoyed by a quirky beer selection and fun music policy, this remains one of the friendliest venues in the parish. (D5) ul. Poznańska 7 The Alchemist A small place with a big bag of tricks: upscale pub grub from Brit chef Ed Shellard, fancy cocktails, and a self-serve wall of beer from a choice of global brewers.

Poland’s still getting used to the idea of ‘a pint after work’, but in The Alchemist the idea of a post-office drink just seems so right. (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 3, thealchemist.pl Bar Gemba Despite occupying the bottom corner of an office development Gemba isn’t short of character: that is, at least, if you measure character by the number of thrift store armchairs and vintage extras.

Furbished with lampshades, luggage and varying odds and ends, it’s the kind of dark, debauched bar that trended amongst artsy Poles in the early 00s. (D5)

it’s a bar that’s dark and divey, raw and real. More than just a spot for the cool kids, there’s an inclusive atmosphere that feels positively international. As for drinks, the habanero / salsa infused Bloody Maria is a life-affirming gargle that sweeps through the body like an electric current – three sips and you feel like Superman. (C5) ul. Hoża 61 Bar Studio The ascetic, modern décor is intentional – both not to compete with the fine adornment of the original walls and to break through the building’s grandiose airs. It’s hard not to be overawed by the sheer gigantism of the Palace of Culture that looms above. It seamlessly slips from café during the day into its more culturally active persona in the evenings, with concerts, film screenings, plays and political discussions. (C4) Pl. Defilad 1, barstudio.pl

Bar Warszawa De Luxe Leave your visit to the weekend when De Luxe unfurls into something resembling a Polish wedding disco. All the requisite characters appear in this spinning vortex of Boney M: vodka-fuelled Incredible Hulks, groping granddads, svelte students and everyone else in between. Somehow, the formula works without a hitch. There are Poles who’d be mortified by this representation of their country, but the truth is, it’s a rip-roaring time that’s enjoyed by most. (D2) Krakowskie Przedmieście 79 Bazar There’s Krusovice, Bernard and Staropramen on tap, and the Czech slant is lent added meat by a series of evenings held in cahoots with the Czech Cultural Centre – it’s during boozy disco nights the party spills into a shadowy cellar with light retro hints. On ground level its raw and industrial with asphalt colors and overhead pipes. You wouldn’t expect it, but the margaritas are smashing. (F1) ul.

Jagiellońska 13

ul. Wilcza 50/52

Bar Pacyfik From Day 1 there was something that felt special about this place, and that feeling has only swelled with the progress of time. With a retro-kitsch interior delivered straight from the age of Scarface (candy floss pink, ocean blue),

76

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2018

Beirut They’ve smashed a wall through though that’s still not enough to accommodate the crowd. Adorned with detritus inspired by the Lebanese conflict (ammox boxes, sandbags and… a bomb), by day find media types posturing by their Macs. At night, the air of cool dissolves into a wild,

happy whirl of international voices. (D5) ul.

Poznańska 12, beirut.com.pl

Bierhalle Having tapped their first beer eight years back, this microbrewery has morphed into a national phenomenon with outposts across the country. All Warsaw locations have a cut/paste Bavarian atmosphere, hefty wooden fittings and waitresses dressed like mountain frauleins. The drinks themselves are formulaic and nothing special. various locations, bierhalle.pl

Bohemia You have to credit them for trying something different, but by going for a slick, corpo style Bohemia have completely missed ‘the essence of Czechia’. Filled with smooth wood and gleaming glass, it feels more boardroom than beer hall (actually, make that bored room). What goes right? The beer. Poured from a ‘tank’ system designed to maintain your beer’s freshness, it’s every bit as good as drinking straight from the tit of Pilsner’s own brew master. (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, bohemiarestaurant.pl

Central Bar The beer (supplied by Bierhalle) is fine, the cocktails are getting better, and the atmosphere is cranked to max: you get the buzzy sense that you’re in the middle of something that’s captured Warsaw’s imagination – the natural focal point of Hala Koszyki, the ever-stretching Central Bar was one of the biggest hits of 2017.

(D6) ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki)

Ceska With its fake brickwork and shameless proliferation of Pilsner paraphernalia, the general feeling is that Ceska feels forced and phony – looking like it was fitted out to a rigid company blueprint, it’s more like the kind of theme pub you’d find off Leicester Square. Service, meanwhile, can be surly, forgetful and occasionally plain hostile. The ‘tank’ pouring system is a considerable plus: try the ‘mliko’, a full pint of creamy foam that can be sunk in a swig. (D4) ul. Chmielna 35, ceska.pl Chłodna 25 After several closures, noise clampdowns and a change in management you’d imagine C25 to be a mere shadow

DRINK! Listings of what it once was. But after a slow start the new owners appear to have rescued this listing vessel and returned it to it best. On the ground floor it’s a place of creaking floorboards and retro armchairs, while the basement gets opened for experimental music nights and improvised orchestras. (B3) ul. Chłodna

Kosmos – Inne Beczki Craft beer, pizza, late nights and DJs! In a nutshell, that’s Kosmos. Attracting the kind of crowd you’d anticipate (trend aware 20/30-somethings), it’s the kind of place where a dull time is rare. (D5) ul.

25, klubchlodna25.pl

Kraken Rum Bar Named after one of the ocean’s most feared mythical creatures (the scary squid from Pirates of the Caribbean), the woodclad Kraken features a wall of cymbals, heavy furniture and some interesting photography. While there’s some decent bottles of rum, there’s perhaps not enough to justify calling it a rum bar. The place rocks though. (D5) ul. Poznańska 12,

Elephant Belgian Pub Signposted by a jolly, dancing elephant, this Belgian pub presents its cause the moment you enter – there’s twenty or so taps laid right out in front, and to the left a fridge that’s expected to top out to cover 200 beers. The design is basic – brickwork, beer kegs and varying ephemera of the brewing trade – but it doesn’t need that much more: it’s about the beer, after all. (C1) ul. Freta 19 Grizzly Gin Bar More prone than ever to global trends, news that the international gin revival has hit Warsaw comes as no real bombshell.

The style in Grizzly is dark and hip with the design largely limited to moody lighting, some witty murals and a bank of outdated TV sets given an artistic twist; the smoking room is great for accidental meetings with curious characters while the occasional gigs really pack a punch – it’s fast becoming the latest and loudest night in the area. (D5) ul. Wilcza 46 Hard Rock Cafe Full throttle cocktails, lively staff and a classic rock soundtrack: the energy of HRC is hard to find fault with. And on the rare occasion there is a lull in the night, use the opportunity to sniff around memorabilia that includes a black leather number once worn by Madonna. (C5) ul.

Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), hardrockcafe.pl

Irish Pub Opened in 1991, it’s doubtful that the place has seen a cleaning lady since, but the general sense of murk and muck does add to the authenticity: it looks and feels like a pub should. Served by a stern, expressionless barman, the Guinness arrives in a mug that’s seen better days but is actually surprisingly decent.

Nothing memorable, but not the calamity you may anticipate from a Polish-run Irish pub on the fringes of Old Town. (C2) ul.

Miodowa 3, irishpubmiodowa.pl

78

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2018

sunshine pours through the windows?

We go to Państwo to do just that, an echoey, cavernous spot with a young, lively crowd that’s keen on scholastic events and political causes (B1) ul.

Andersa 29, panstwomiasto.pl

Poznanska 24

Paradox Billing themselves as a ‘sci-fi / gamers / role play asylum’ this is a cradle of geeks, nerds and people who collect serial killer memorabilia. Decorated with plastic black crows, a map of Mordor and figurines of goblins, watch as oddly attired suspects engross themselves in ‘for hire’ games with names like Hobbit and Bewoulf. (B1) ul. Anielewicza 2, paradox-cafe.pl

fb.com/KrakenRumBar

Legends Over the years Legends has earned a legendary status amongst the expats and Anglophiles. Their cause is helped by touches such as a proper darts board, Sky Sports and a traditional menu that’s as authentically English as the Downing Street cat. Presiding over it all is Graham, a seasoned expat and Everton nut. (C5) ul.

Emilii Plater 25, legendsbar.pl Między Nami With 18 years of service under their belt you may think of Między Nami as being an antiquated has-been. Not so. Haunted by a mix of media types and local characters, this hip white piece of post-commie Warsaw has an enduring, almost timeless appeal. (D4) ul. Bracka 20, miedzynamicafe. com

Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’ Approximately twenty bars occupy a series of low-budget prefabricated cabins, presenting possibly the highest density of bars in the capital: in summer, it feels like one big street party. Adding to the gentle sense of confusion comes the realization that so many bars look the same – accessed through clattery, barred doors, visitors walk into what can only be described as murk. Klaps, with its dildo beer taps and phallic walls, is probably the most well-known of the lot. (D4) Enter from ul. Nowy Świat 26

Państwo Miasto Is there anything better than sitting in a bar/café, book in hand, while summery

Plan B Plan B is the very essence of dive Warsaw. Weekends pass by in a raucous blur, with the party spilling out under the colonnades outside – it helps to look like a DJ, but in truth everyone is welcome.

The hangover from this shabby, grubby bar is traumatic. (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), planb.pl

Sheesha Lounge Providing you don’t mind sharing the weekend with some of the most gloriously gorgeous people in the city, then a trip to Sheesha ticks all the boxes.

Presenting itself in a whirl of action, the exotic, clubby atmosphere hits fever pitch come the midnight hour. Earlier, soak up the atmosphere with a scented hookah while lounging under eastern lights. (D5) Al. Jerozolimskie 33, sheesha.pl Smak Brasserie Open Friday through to Sunday, the upstairs gallery inside Hala Gwardii has views of the market hall action below and a design that’s based around moody lighting, open spaces and rescued furnishings. A fine place in which to soak in the atmosphere of this echoey, pre-war hall. (C3) Zelaznej Bramy 1 (Hala Gwardii)

Stixx It takes a moment to allow the sheer magnitude of Stixx sink in. Having adjusted to the wow factor of the interior – which can best be described as cosmopolitan-industrial – most retreat to the long, all weather deck which in itself

DRINK! Listings is quite something: the aesthetics are such that a cocktail party on an oligarch’s yacht comes to mind. There aren’t many better places for a drink when the roof is rolled back and the stars twinkle above.

to gather in an almost carnival-like atmosphere. Once seen as the hipster Center of Power, it still maintains great popularity with whiskered, tattooed sorts.

(E4) ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B,

(A4) Pl. Europejski 4A, tel. 22 340 4040, stixx.pl

Świetlica Long and narrow, dark and murky, it’s as raw as they come: toilets of grubby menace, a smoking room clad in spray art, broken fittings and general gloom.

Basically, it’s everything you demand from the last bar of the night – a place where you can slide into the shadows and watch the world spin around. (E7) ul.

Marszałkowska 17

Ul Cool and current, the globalized menu has distinct Asian accents and is enjoyed in a rough-chic interior of painted brickwork and dangling lights. Come night it feels dark and divey, the kind of place you head to party. And party you will – closing at two during the week and four (and beyond) at the weekend, the vibe is hard and energetic and befitting of Poznańska.

(D5) ul. Poznańska 16

Ulubiona Set inside the archway, look for a heavy door next to a dented ashtray seemingly unemptied for the last couple of months.

Shadowy and shabby, you’ll usually find barflies strumming guitars or engrossed in a solo game of chess. An intensely personal experience, it’s a bar that compensates for its lack of glitz with a stoner-style ambiance that soon sweeps over all. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 27 W Oparach Absurdu Hidden under Persian rugs, velvety drapes and reclaimed antiques, some still refer to it as The Spider Bar in reference to the giant tarantula that once hung from the wall. There’s an air of louche 60s living here, and it gets weirder when bands with names like the Bum Bum Orchestra enter to play trumpets amongst vodka-tipping guests. (F1) ul. Ząbkowska 6, oparyabsurdu.pl

Warszawa Powiśle The prime months for this former ticket booth arrive each summer when the deckchairs outside provide ample opportunity for the city’s young and fashionable

80

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2018

Worek Kości A celebration of both the burlesque and bizarre, Worek Kości is the bar Edgar Allan Poe would create were he raised from the dead. A lively evening hangout with ad-libbed cocktails and an unconventional program of events, you’re as likely to visit during an open-mic night as you are a discussion on Silesian serial killers. This fascination with the morbid and macabre manifests itself by way of a quirky design featuring hundreds of skulls and book shelves lined with the complete works of Stephen King. (E7) ul. Bagatela 10

cafés Bułkę przez Bibułkę There’s a feminine style to this cafe, what with its cute, girly pastels, petite plant pots and woodsy finishes. But no matter what your gender or age, there’s something immediately sunny and positive about this place. Slow food sandwiches arrive on wooden boards, there’s pretty homemade desserts and a careful choice of wine: falling in love with it is easy. ul. Puławska 24 & ul. Zgoda 3, bulkeprzezbibulke.pl

Być Może It’s all about artisan bread and breakfast in the industrial looking Być Może. It’s taken the concept of Charlotte (groan, there’s even a communal table), and improved it with excellent breads and a crowd that’s a little less pleased with itself. (E7) ul. Bagatela 14, bycmoze.com.pl Charlotte Menora If the air is smug and self-satisfied, there’s a good reason for that: Charlotte have come to embody modern urban Poland: energetic, ambitious and ferociously trend conscious. And to think, some look at it as a mere bakery. Occupying a long space, the latest outpost of this café chain doesn’t overlook the area’s Jewish heritage, with the menu featuring several Jewish delicacies: the bagels are ok. (C4) Pl. Grzybowski 2, bistrocharlotte.pl

Coffeedesk Looking flawless in her pearl white colors, Coffeedesk is a place that does it right.

Brewed by expert coffeeologists, the humble cup of Joe becomes an object of adoration. Populated round-the-clock by headphoned freelancers and digital nomads tapping into their Macs, it’s a light, bright spot with a dynamic style and a keen sense of sexy. (D5 ul. Wilcza 42, fb.com/coffeedeskwilcza

Cophi So small you get the idea you could fit Cophi into the palm of your hand, yet no other place in Warsaw is more devoted to sourcing the best coffees in the world. (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60

Czuły Barbarzyńca na Piwnej A Parisian-style bookstore full of steps and wobbles, nooks and alcoves. All agree there’s something special here: maybe it’s the book selection – varied, esoteric and at once compelling. Or maybe it’s the atmosphere, such that browsers anchor themselves on the sofas to lose an afternoon with their nose in a novel while sipping drip coffee. (E3) ul. Piwna 20/26, czuly.pl

Dobro & Dobro Cafe Measuring just six square meters (record attendance: 12 customers!), the tiniest cafe in Poland has grown into a cult stopoff for people looking to do something wacky. If you’re into karma, then buy a suspended coffee – order a coffee in advance for a stranger, write a personal message and then hang the cup from a string. (E8) ul. Puławska 11, fb.com/dobrocafe EmEsEn Heaving with heavyweight art titles and photo albums, the crowd that gathers in this café/bookstore is suitably leftfield and creative. On the work front, strong wifi and plenty of plugs make this one of the better venues in which to put your nose to the grindstone. Aiding your endeavors is a serious choice of coffee sourced from roasters such as The Barn from Berlin and Melbourne’s Atomica. (C4) ul. Pańska 3, fb.com/emesen.kawki

FatWhite_CoffeeBar Attached to a super cool barber shop (tatts, beards, crazy whiskers) Fat White have a beauty of an interior: swan

Enjoy the hospitality and tastes of the Bosphorus in Poland’s most authentic Turkish restaurant Pl. Konstytucji 2, tel. 883 444 441, anatolia.pl

DRINK! Listings white with walls graced by bookshelves and contemporary art that references Muranów’s past. Coffee comes from Kofi Brand, while sandwiches are made by personal chef / co-owner Filip (that’s his Scooby Doo van outside!). (C1) ul. Andersa 6 Forum Set through an inconspicuous doorway (look for the Comedy Club sign), Forum opens up as a plain, narrow space with a long counter running down the middle and a smattering of tables occupied by cool-looking designer types. Changing weekly, the big pull is a choice of specialty coffees sourced from roasters such as Berlin’s Five Elephant. Fixed by a team of experts (co-owner Sławek is currently ranked Poland’s second top barista), this is coffee that makes life brew-tiful. (D6) ul.

Nowowiejska 1, forum.coffee

lashings of plant life and bursts of poster art. But if the front part is all about catching up with friends and soaking up the vibe over bagels and ‘ethical’ coffee, then outback is where the serious stuff happens – discover a studiously quiet dual-level working space featuring a printer, flipcharts and plentiful light. (E4) ul. Tamka 49, labour.pl

Ministerstwo Kawy Sourcing their coffee from Koppi, an internationally acclaimed Swedish roasting house, the ministry takes no short cuts in their pursuit of excellence.

Utilizing Ethiopian, Costa Rican and Brazilian arabicas – some exclusive to Poland – barista Wojciech Rzytki has earned a reputation across Poland for his expert hand. Rave reviews are standard and appropriate. (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 27, ministerstwokawy.pl

Kafka Café A chessboard floor and a collection of antlers on the wall characterize Kafka, a bookstore / café whose literary collection is composed of paperbacks rescued from recycling plants. Books are purchased by their weight (zł. 10 per kilo) while the menu includes pancakes, pastas and even doggy treats for your mutt. (E3) ul. Oboźna

Monsieur Leon Found resting on the corner of a quiet residential street, Monsieur Leon is surely one of Mokotów’s best kept secrets. Here, simplicity is the name of the game, with a brief blackboard menu that involves cheese boards, salads and a hefty croque monsieur. (E8) ul. Sulkiewicza 5

3, kawiarnia-kafka.pl

Kawiarnia Fabryczna A place to eavesdrop, catch-up on gmail and daydream the morning away, head to this warm den to sink inside comfy retro chairs and soak up the natural light that pours through the window. Prepared on a Nuova Simonelli machine, the coffee hails from a range of pedigree roasters such as Warsaw’s own Coffee Lab. (E3) ul.

Niezłe Ziółko Café & Deli A shrine to pure and healthy eating, this friendly café doesn’t just brew a great coffee, but bakes its own bread and produces its own yogurt. Sit in the loft to look down on shoppers scurrying to Mokotowska, and on the way out, check out ‘Grandma’s Cupboard’ in the corner: jams, spreads and olive oils are there to buy for home. (D5) ul. Krucza 17

supply a retro accent, and are enjoyed by a fashion aware, laptop-touting crowd.

(E9) ul. Puławska 48

Resort Originally known for their OTT recycling motif (shopping trolleys re-purposed as seats, street signs as tables...), Resort have pared the design down replacing the old junk with a cool, caramel-colored look high on wood, plants and discreet retro accents. Craft beer, eco-friendly bites, clever cocktails and quality coffee contribute to their popularity, as does a busy events program that’s big on comedy and open mic nights. (C2) ul.

Bielańska 1

Stor Buying their coffee from revered roasters such as Berlin’s Bonanza and Stockholm’s Drop Coffee, Stor have grown to become a giant presence on Warsaw’s café map. Visitors bask in natural light amid outbreaks of greenery and quirky design touches: time runs away here and before you know it hours have passed. ul.

Tamka 33, fb.com/storcafe

Wrzenie Świata Those with journalistic leanings love Wrzenie Świata. It’s definitely more Macbook than Moleskine, but this bookstore/café attracts plenty of readers (and writers) to its book-lined interior.

Buzzing like a cafe should, it packs out for slideshows and seminars. (E4) ul.

Gałczyńskiego 7

clubs

Fabryczna 28/30, kawiarniafabryczna.pl

KluboKawiarnia Towarzyska With an interior modeled by John Strumiłło, this 50s pavilion has an ascetic design defined by polar white interiors.

Contrast is provided downstairs, with deep magenta walls and retro armchairs.

Concerts, screenings and art happenings have made it into something of local cultural mainstay. ul. Zwycięzców 49, klubokawiarnia.net

Labour Cafe Labour Café’s door crashes open onto a busy space that sets bare raw materials of steel, wood, concrete and brick against

82

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2018

Odette Tearoom Taking its lead from their original dessert stop on ul. Górskiego, the sister venue peddles glorious cakes and pralines as well as a hand-picked selection of boutique teas served in a fragrant and elegant atmosphere. (C4) ul. Twarda 4, odette.pl

Enklawa Forget Tinder, Enklawa is the best pick-up joint around – a classic kitschy, glitzy disco, it draws in huge crowds with a simple lineup of pop and dance hits. Still regarded as the best Wednesday night in Warsaw, it’s the place for singletons looking for a one-night confidence boost.

(D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, enklawa.com

Relaks Expertly prepared, right down to the foam art, the baristas here use the finest imported machines and work only with fair trade, ‘specialty’ coffee. If you have time, the drip coffees are more than worth the wait. The crowded interiors

Klub Spatif This labyrinthine pre-war tenement comes fitted with vintage trimmings and parquet floors and shakes to a revolving roster of sounds that range from Brit Pop to soul. Their main success though is

DRINK! Listings replicating that fun, spontaneous feel of a house party that’s spiraled out of control: no matter their individual back story, everyone gets on (and occasionally gets off). Al. Ujazdowskie 45, klubspatif.pl Luztro Don’t sit down, you won’t know what you might catch. Dark and generally filthy, Warsaw’s most (in)famous club only gets going around about three. As the hours click towards daybreak, the scenes of depravity are like something from Sodom and Gomorrah. Enjoyed by zombies that quite definitely don’t have to be up for work anytime in the next 48 hrs, it’s not just the full-on techno that will leave the brain rattling – you’ll know if it’s your scene. (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, luztro.pl N58 The latest entry on Warsaw’s club circuit have issued a manifesto promising deep vocal house, r’n’b, mash-ups and theme nights centered around Afro Beats / trap / twerk and hip hop. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58 No Comment A secret world for those In The Know, find No Comment in a seedy-looking tower under Poniatowski Bridge. Clad in decadent, blue velvety surfaces, this tiny bi-level club feels redolent of an afterhours Parisian members club: everyone seems to know each other, and after a bottle of bubbles you will as well. (F4) Al. 3 Maja 16/18A, Most Poniatowskiego

Ritual Looking dark and sensual, this two-level space unwraps before you like some elaborate adventure. Candles flicker, atmosphere crackles – moving towards the bar, slinky, sultry club creatures of unfathomable beauty prowl past with drinks poised in hand. Heating up gradually as the night progresses, Ritual moves organically from being a voluptuous bar to a spicy club as the night ebbs towards its heady conclusion. (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, ritualwarsaw.com

ul. Mazowiecka 13, room13.pl

Spatif The varied music policy shines a light on a revolving schedule of sounds, pinning its attention on everything from jazz and soul to Britpop and electro.

Spread across a series of chambers decorated with vintage fittings, parquet floors and wood-paneled walls, Spatif’s main success lies in replicating that fun, spontaneous feel of a house party that’s spiraled out of control: no matter their individual back story, everyone gets on (and occasionally gets off). Just about the most unpretentious club night you’ll find, this labyrinthine pre-war tenement feels fun, diverse and never up its own arse.

The View Occupying the upper levels of a skyscraper, The View is a place of bubbles and beauties and all things glam. A world class venue, past crowd pullers include Bob Sinclair and David Morales.

In summer, the glam and the gorgeous won’t be seen anywhere but the open air rooftop deck: it’s pure NYC. (C4) ul. Twarda 18, theview.pl

cocktails 6 Cocktails If 6 Cocktails has the feeling of hanging around someone’s flat that’s because, actually, you are. This posh Mokotowska apartment has been re-adapted as an exclusive bar frequented by leggy models and society figures: the parties are nuts!

Unmarked from street level, to enjoy the inventive cocktails message them on FB and await your invite. (E5) ul. Mokotowska 57

THE MOST

Podwale Bar & Books R C P T M Though it doesn’t have to be winter C W to enjoy≈Podwale Bar & Books, it W C definitely ≈ helps. Seen through frosted, C C foggy windows it’s a venue that reveals ≈ itself Tas≈a place of dark, delicious colors E andPrarefied air. Occupying the kind of ≈ L S charismatic gatehouse you’d read about EFRESHINGLY

Room 13 Connected by a series of inter-linking archways, rooms inside this dressy club throb at the weekends with a super sexy crowd letting loose under the vaulted ceilings. Now in their fifth year, it’s become a stalwart of the Mazowiecka scene. (D3)

84

LACES

IVILIZED

EETTM

O

IGARS &

INE &

HISKY

HAMPAGNE

OCKTAILS &

USINE

ASTINGS

RIVATE

OCATION

VENTS

HOOTS

PODWALE BAR AND BOOKS

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2018

Wąski Dunaj 20, 00-256 Warsaw Tel.: +48 225.599.199

in Dickens, position yourself in front of the upstairs fireplace for a celebratory cigar and a glass of something tall and lovely: the cocktails are in a class of their own and specifically customized for the season. (D2) ul. Wąski Dunaj 20, barandbooks.pl

Bar Wieczorny The cocktails are serious here, with top quality spirits (Vestal, Baczewski, Woodford Reserve) used with equally big name mixes (Fentimans, Big Tom, etc.).

Further, you’ll find it’s the right products in the right hands – the staff really know their game. (D8) ul. Wiśniowa 46, barwieczorny.pl

Bardziej It’s thanks to places like Bardziej that Oleandrów is becoming one of the most talked about streets around. This splitlevel bar does a good job of capturing the essence of the area, with inventive ‘author’s cocktails’ matched against a warm, dimly lit interior that’s heaving with cogs, metal hooks and enigmatic dials. The later it gets, the better it is.

(E5) ul. Marszałkowska 21/25 (enter from Oleandrów)

Biała Saska’s premier cocktail spot reaches its zenith each summer thanks to a leafy back garden that stands shaded by this modernist building: it’s worth visiting just to swan down the spiral stairs with a glass of something bubbly. ul. Francuska 2, fb.com/bialazjedziwypij

Charlie Crowd: glam & vampy. The venue: equally so. Occupying the first floor of a pre-war tenement, there’s a magic here that summons the age of F. Scott Fitzgerald – Gatsby would love it. The ace in the pack is a ‘subconscious menu’ from which clients order mystery cocktails based on their scent. (E6) ul. Mokotowska 39 Column Bar Just the look of Column Bar sweeps you off your feet; there’s something breathlessly classy about it, like you’ve just entered Gatsby’s ballroom. You want to order a pyramid of champagne and dance on their piano. Behave, and order a cocktail instead. For a taste of the classics, the Column Bar is pretty

Józef Brandt 1841–1915 Rozszerzona rzeczywistość 22/06– 30/09/2018

Józef Brandt 1841–1915 PATRONAT NARODOW Y PREZYDENTA RZECZYPOSPOLITEJ POLSKIEJ ANDRZEJA DUDY W STULECIE ODZYSK ANIA NIEPODLEGŁOŚCI

W YSTAWA POD HONOROW YM PATRONATEM WICEPREZESA R ADY MINISTRÓW, MINISTR A KULTURY I DZIEDZICT WA NARODOWEGO PROF. DR . HAB. PIOTR A GLIŃSKIEGO

PATRONAT HONOROW Y

PROJEK T REALIZOWANY W R AMACH OBCHODÓW STULECIA ODZYSK ANIA NIEPODLEGŁOŚCI

PATRONI MEDIALNI

WSPÓŁORGANIZATOR

MECENAS W YSTAW Y

PARTNER W YSTAW Y

PARTNER MUZEUM

DOR ADCA PR AWNY

DRINK! Listings peerless. (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44 (Hotel Bristol)

a plush, little corner of the Cosmopolitan Tower, this is luxury with a conscience. ul.

Twarda 4, cosmobar.pl

Cosmo Bar Though they’ve made a big noise about embracing a variety of initiatives aimed at maximizing sustainability, Tomek Roehr’s Cosmo Bar project, is more than a one-trick pony. Beyond the novelty factor is a scrupulous attention to detail that manifests itself in impeccable cocktails based around Polish produce – rowanberry, sea buckthorn and suchlike. Occupying

Kita Koguta The staff aren’t afraid to get imaginative, and that includes serving cocktails in smoking coconut husks. Not all the experiments go as planned: on our last visit, a basic Bloody Mary was turned into an alcoholic carrot flavored fizz. (E5) ul.

Krucza 6/14

Kiti Bar A raucous bar drawn up by the owners of the nearby Kita Koguta. Dominated by a tall Polynesian totem, this ray of sunshine gets noted for extravagant cocktails served by game staff in zany shirts. (D5) ul. Krucza 6/14

Raffles Long Bar Inspired by the legendary Long Bar in Singapore (the birthplace of the Singapore Sling), this super swanky bar comes with a sleek marble bar, swivelly leather bar stools, and a scintillating glass sculpture

by Dorota Buczkowska. Hotel drinking has never felt so good. Full review next issue.

(D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13 (Raffles Europejski Hotel)

The Roots Having recruited some of the top bartenders in Poland, The Roots have a serious artillery on which to rely. So committed is this haunt, its walls are graced by a vast collection of cocktail memorabilia: antique jiggers, shakers, coolers, not to mention an original signed copy of the world’s first cocktail handbook (published: 1862!). (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 11

Na Lato Once derided as a hipster haunt, the twits have moved on, replaced instead by an increasingly on-trend crowd of rich young things. The cocktails are without doubt up there with the best in Wa-wa and the basement club area has the added boon of a glassed-in smoking room. (F5) ul.

Rozbrat 44, na-lato.com

Panorama Sky Bar The Marriott’s 40th floor Panorama has had a couple of incarnations: first, as a glitzy Dynasty throwback, and then, more recently, as something that could have passed for a business class airport lounge. Now it’s been reinvented once again, only this time successfully: find slick, vibrant interiors redolent of London matched up with modern cocktails and twinkling views. (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79,

10%

panoramabar.pl

Pies Czy Suka Monochrome gun metal grey colors are offset by a young crowd attired in red shoes, pink trousers and blue headphones. This clean, concrete space is speckled with plaster moldings of reindeer heads, and excels on the cocktail front. Order from an iPad menu, before settling back for cocktails made using mad scientist, molecular techniques that involve foam, vapor, beakers and other *SHOWusually THIS ADVERT AND GET 10% DISCOUNT ON FOOD, things you’d find in Professor NONALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES OR MERCHANDISE. Yaffle’s lab.

Certainly not as ‘mature’ VALID TILL DEC 30 2018 FOR PURCHASES OVER 150 PLN. as the new breed of cocktail bars, but definitely more fun. (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8A TH

86

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2018

Weles Named after the Slavic god of the underworld, everything about Weles evokes the spirit of indulgence: a zinc 1920s ceiling imported from the States, a crystal chandelier and a wooden bar carved from a British carousel. A work of refined craftsmanship, the cocktails stand out as the most sophisticated in the city.

(D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 11, welesbar.pl

Woda Ognista Woda Ognista evokes the jazzy air of a Chicago, Prohibition era speakeasy with a seriously stylish interior that includes a colossal collection of vintage cocktail shakers that glint behind glass. The drinks themselves, rattled up by dapper gents in braces and flat caps, are split between house creations and reprised classics from a bygone era. Some are more successful than others, and it’s a credit to the staff that they’re willing to take comments on board and adapt their precious recipes to suit fussy tastes. (E5) ul. Wilcza 8, wodaognista.com

Zamieszanie Cuda Na Kiju have built on their continuing success by adding this spot in the glass block next to their tap pub. Here though it’s cocktails that are the draw.

Pre-bottled in a secret room downstairs, meaning none of the ad-libbed artistry of other cocktail bars, and tastes that are closer in line to 90s alcopop drinks than anything else. That doesn’t stop a young

DRINK! Listings crowd from swamping the place come the weekend. (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 6/12 Zorza Slotted inside what was once Café 6/12, Zorza embellishes the venue’s ascetic PRL style with licks of art deco: it’s an unlikely marriage that manages to work.

Do your pecking, picking, sipping and supping on an outdoor terrace set-up that encourages mingling and interaction. (D4) ul. Żurawia 6/12, zorzabistro.pl

craft beer Artezan Pub The country has crazier breweries for sure, but does it have anyone more consistent than the lads at Artezan. Famed for their Pacific – the quintessential domestic IPA – Artezan’s flagship bar is a standard bearer not just for quality, but for Poland as a whole. (D4) ul. Moniuszki 1A Bistro Warszawski Kapsel Occupying a (very) small corner unit on Tamka, there are some who might better remember this address as the short-lived home of Heritage Birreria Artigianale – an Italian inspired craft beer bar. The beer taps have survived, only now you’ll find them tweaking out artisan brews closer to home. Of the other noteworthy changes, the addition of a TV screen resolutely tuned to any live football has been seen as another major plus. ul. Tamka 9 Chmielarnia A subterranean multi-tap found in the depths of the fishing institute. Artisan beers rule the roost here (there’s 15 taps and stacks more beer in the fridge), a point underlined by a glass coffin of mainstream macro lager. While the bar gets loud and rackety, sweaty and sticky, that’s balanced out by a rotating beer offer that’s moderately priced plus a friendly, earnest audience that’s all beer geeks and know-it-alls. (B5) ul. Twarda 42 (basement level), chmielarnia.waw.pl

Chmielarnia Marszałkowska With Warsaw’s tap bars all falling over each other to stock the latest tap beers, your options are frequently similar from bar to bar – which is when a good fridge becomes important. Not only can you

actually see into Chmielarnia’s, you’ll find it housing the most exciting brews trending around the globe: from the edgy Bermondsey breweries to the Scandinavian giants. Broaden your horizons! (E7) ul.

Marszałkowska 10/16, chmielarnia.waw.pl

Chmielołak Bis All the hallmarks of the quintessential neighborhood bar are here – that said, seeing they don’t even have a bar (just a line of taps and a barmaid standing in front of them), maybe calling it a bar in the traditional sense takes a jump of the imagination. Regardless, there’s something about this place that’s special: a cute wooden-decked garden aside, reasons to visit include ten taps, a snug, secret basement and a sense of something warm, neighborly and pleasingly engaging. ul. Walecznych 68A Craft Beer Muranów Though still an area thick with beretwearing, dachshund-walking oldies, Muranów is fast catching up with the rest of Warsaw. Taking care of the craft beer angle is this newbie, a bi-level bar with warm tones and 16 taps of beery goodness. ul. Andersa 23 Cuda Na Kiju Where it all began. Summer catches Warsaw’s original tap bar at its best, with the courtyard of the former Communist Party HQ now home to an entirely different kind of party: on occasions find food trucks and film screenings, and all other times just a massive crowd getting sloshed on 15 types of tap beer. But even outside the sweaty months Cuda is worth the visit: drink inside a modern, glass cube that’s refreshing contemporary. (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, cudanakiju.pl

Cześć It started as a café, but now Cześć is better known as being at the forefront of the new generation of ‘quali-tap’ bars – small little places with six or so beers on tap. The two owners, Piotrek and Kuba, take their beer seriously, so do expect plenty of new finds as well as traditional favorites from stalwarts like the Artezan and Pinta breweries. The laidback, neighborhood atmosphere is making it increasingly popular with a tight-knit circle of ex-pat drinkers. (C3) ul. Grzybowska 2 (through the side passage), czesc.waw.pl warsawinsider.pl

87

DRINK! Listings Drugie Dno To plug into the pounding heart of Warsaw’s craft beer scene, look no further than Nowogrodzka. Joining the ranks of the street’s multi-tap bars is Drugie Dno, a three-level space that’s been themed to evoke the look of a disused power station.

Sporting rugged brickwork and a scuffed style, the industrialized look has been amped up to the max through the use of steel girders, vintage voltage meters and toilets disguised as elevator shafts. (D5) ul.

Nowogrodzka 4

Eufemia Even in a country that prides itself on deceptive addresses, Eufemia outdoes them all by suggesting gig-goers head to Krakowskie Przedmieście. Actually, you need ul. Traugutta, and from there to search out the salmon pink palace that’s entered via Niżyńskiego. Obvious, huh? Slipped down some narrow steps, Eufemia unwraps into a series of side rooms furbished in simple style with occasional flourishes provided by the local art school. Drinks come from 12 taps squirting out Polish craft beer, while food is a welcome affair involving pulled pork burgers, pastrami and even vegan curry.

(D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 5

must-visit, especially if you’re a fan of stout and cider. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 12, taproom.pl

Kufle i Kapsle Interiors are balanced with the pre-war heritage of the place, and are thick with noise, clamor and the smell of spillage.

Found somewhere towards the top of the national hierarchy of craft beer bars, Kufle welcomes all, from entry level novices to note-taking beer nerds. The male to female ratio is somewhere near equal, which in itself feels pretty unique.

(D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 25, kufleikapsle.pl

fb.com/MikkellerBarWarsaw

Kufle i Kapsle Żoliborz While Nowogrodzka is the beating heart of the tap bar trend, not even the suburbs are safe from this flourishing movement. By expanding out to Żoliborz, Kufle i Kapsle have cornered a captive market. There’s just seven taps here, but they’re a magnificent seven – find a great representation of Polish craft draught, not to mention a satisfying selection of international bottles. The moderate size works it in its favor, lending it a neighborly atmosphere which sees first-timers quickly converted into returning regulars. ul Popiełuszki 19/21, kufleikapsle.pl

Goraczka Zlota Get down with the locals at Gorączka Złota, a steamy pub with a rowdy atmosphere. Touting the dimensions of a cabin boy’s quarters, this pungent, pokey den is one of the oldest bars in town.

Despite carrying many epic beers from Poland’s rebel brewers, there’s nothing faddish about GZ and it’s this sense of normalcy that lends it its enduring appeal.

(D5) ul. Wilcza 29, goraczka-zlota.com.pl

Hoppiness You’re in good hands here – opened under the patronage of the Pracownia brewery, this small-scale operation goes beyond merely offering the beers of its sponsor.

There’s 12 taps in all, a decent fridge to geek over, an ace burger and beer-based ice cream – hooray! (D4) ul. Chmielna 27/31, hoppiness.ontap.pl

Jabeerwocky Steeped in multinational drunken babble, the super sociable Jabbers is famed for its innovative beer selection and convivial atmosphere. Mark it down as an absolute

88

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2018

Mikkeller Bar Warsaw Light and bright the sparsity of the interior is a surprise: a classic case of less is more, here the punchline is given to the beer. That means twenty taps firing out a revolving roster of kickass beers that, thus far, have included lambic-style ‘SpontanPear’ and yuzu flavored Berliner weisse. It’s an utter geek-gasm for beer nerds. Prices for the Danish stuff start in the early 20s and soar upwards from there – in return, you’re getting brilliant beer that breaks brewing boundaries.

For cheapskates, Polish options kick-off at approx. 13 PLN. (D4) ul. Chmielna 7/9,

Małe Piwo Oleandrów’s reawakening began on this very spot! Opened six years back, MP preempted the craft beer trend to become one of Warsaw’s first places for something better than a pint of Piss-kie.

Looking wholly unfinished and fashionably distressed, it’s got that New York dive vibe down to a tee – you imagine The Strokes rolling in right after band practice. (D7) ul. Oleandrów 4 Maryensztadt Craft Beer It’s a mixed crowd of locals and tourists that gather in Maryensztadt, a large bar whose 12 taps showcase the highs (and occasional lows) produced by the brewery that gives this pub its name. Set across a series of cavernous chambers inside an attractive Old Town property, its not just beer buffs that it appeals to: sourcing their ingredients from smallscale farmsteads, the kitchen wing of Maryensztadt does a convincing job of representing the tastier side of regional Poland. (D1) ul. Szeroki Dunaj 11

Piw Paw We don’t like: the sweaty toilet, strange smells nor the scrum at the bar. We do like: the 24hr opening hours, humongous fridge and 50+ taps. Seen in the light it’s a little depressing, so visit at night when Parkingowa takes on the look of an endof-term street party. (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34 (enter from ul. Parkingowa), piwpaw.pl

Same Krafty Occupying two narrow, rugged rooms, Same Krafty have rescued Old Town from big beer brands peddling piss. Offering artisan alternatives, this intimate bar has become a magnet for those looking to explore the more subversive side of Polish brewing. (D1) ul. Nowomiejska 10, samekrafty.pl

Same Krafty Vis-à-vis You wouldn’t have thought it a year back, but reasons keep emerging to drink in the Old Town. When it comes to pubs, Same Krafty top the list, but try getting served at peak drinking time. So here’s some brilliant news: they’ve now opened another bar opposite. Pass under a dragon’s head before stepping into a supremely friendly room with ten taps, a strong bottle line-up and an atmospheric side chamber. (D1) ul.

Nowomiejska 11/13, samekrafty.pl

The Taps No longer a niche movement, the opening of The Taps is another sign of craft beers mainstream market penetration. Set on the once super trendy Sienkiewicza, hopes are high that the opening of this three-floor drinking den could yet revive the fortunes of this street. Appealing to a young, pre-club crowd, the industrial /

DRINK! Listings loft-style décor feels rather contrived and a little too polished. ul. Sienkiewicza 4 Warzą się Losy “Nowhere in Warsaw,” boasts the barman, “has more beer taps per square meter.”

Despite its diminutive footprint, WsL punches above its weight with eight taps turning out new generation Polish beer.

Decked out like an anechoic chamber, the combination of good beer and mouse hole dimensions mean that it doesn’t take long for conversations to crossover with the scattering of strangers at the bar. Soon enough everyone’s drinking together and toasting the night. (D7) ul. Oleandrów 3

for gentlemen Playhouse Housed in a former subterranean bomb shelter, the talk now is of bombshells: namely the 57 stunners they’ve got listed on their books. Inspired by high class joints in London and Vegas, it’s a refined choice with a no-pressure atmosphere and door staff that don’t look like they’re going to kick your head in. (B3) Al. Solidarności 82A, playhouse.pl

live music Hydrozagadka Set out in the wildlands of Praga, consider Hydrozagadka as the heart of unforced cool. Known for its alternative music scene, the low-ceiling and tight, crowded nature of it generate an electrifying atmosphere where the audience and band become one. Walking a fine line between industrial and straight out decrepit, the atmosphere is second to none: drinks flow, strangers meet and music smashes out: you can feel something special happening here. ul. 11 Listopada 22 Klub Pogłos Arguably Warsaw’s No. 1 venue for alternative music, Pogłos checks all the requisite boxes: a divey, gritty look, a liberal atmosphere and an army of fans willing and eager to embrace the seamier side of night. The packed program of events runs from spoken word performances and vegan BBQs, to

sweaty tribute concerts celebrating The Smiths. At other times, you’ll be listening to touring Berlin-based bands, hardcore DJs or psychedelic soul from the likes of King Khan And The Shrines. If it’s weird, it’s on. ul. Burakowska 12, fb.com/klubpoglos Pardon To Tu Strung with overhead lightbulbs, the revived version of this legendary bar has that same indomitable spirit associated with the first: dogs romp about while Warsaw’s intelligentsia discuss the issues of the day. As dusk turns to night, a gentle drunken fog settles in the air, and the atmosphere crackles as the drinks mount up. But Pardon’s temporary summer home is exactly just that: an open-air area with bits of corrugated roofing. Not that anyone minds, and that’s especially true come the onset of gig night. With concerts held in an adjoining warehouse, it’s in here that the true soul of Pardon reveals itself. (D9) ul.

Pyk i Łyk Thundering through a flimsy door, customers are met by a tiny, divey area that’s devoid of furnishings aside from shelves of vodka and a bar that’s been painted to depict dripping blood. Yikes!

Decorated with bizarre montages of hard drinking rockers, once visitors settle into their vodka rhythm, it reveals itself as a bar of greatness. “No wi-fi,” shouts one sign, “talk to each other and get drunk.”

It’s that kind of place. (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 26

Madalińskiego 10/16, pardontotu.pl

vodka TRY OUR BUBBLE-waffles Dom Wódki Those expecting Dom Wódki to be a standard mucky shot bar are in for a surprise. Sparkling with over 250 artisanal vodkas, find them incorporated into inspirational drinks mixed by Tomasz Małek, a world champion flair bartender. More than just show, the tastes are incredible. (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl

Meta Chains of old bog paper, Karol Gott album covers and other Communist keepsakes litter this shot bar. But for a real blast to the past, visit their Parkingowa venue for a full-on, Polski-style retro disco. It’s hilarious. ul. Mazowiecka 11 / Foksal 21 /

WITH HOME MADE ARTISAN GELATO. Nowogrodzka 15 Al. Jana Pawła II 43/25 Francuska 48 Hala Koszyki tel. 509 912 282 www.melody.pl

Parkingowa 5

Pijalnia Havoc reigns in Pijalnia, and watching all the tears and tiffs on a Friday night is something of a spectator sport. Pickles and vodka are the essential order, while reading matter is supplied via commieera sports reports that are plastered to the wall. many locations, fb.com/pijalnia. warszawa warsawinsider.pl

89

DRINK! Listings wine bars Ale Wino!

Without doubt, peak time is the summer when drinkers congregate on a courtyard deck shielded by a sail. But winter ain’t so bad either with this covert wine bar unraveling to reveal a series of little chambers.

The wine choice is comprehensive and it’s ably supported by some of the best cooking in the city: chef Sebastian Wełpa is one of Warsaw’s great, golden talents.

(E5) ul. Mokotowska 48, alewino.pl

Bubbles Such is the style of Bubbles it feels like Valentine’s all year round: high on intimacy, it’s a charming ensemble of rickety crates and deep, dark colors. But the clincher, that’s the prodigious selection of champagne. Now while you’d usually expect a champagne bar to be filled with footballers wives and berks with fake tans, Bubbles feels inclusive, convivial and anything but vain. (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, bubbles.com.pl

Dekant Wine Bar Set inside an attractive open space, the opening of Dekant is a further indication of Powiśle’s shift from hipster epicenter to upscale playground (Robert Lewandowski has been spotted here!). The list comprises over 400 wines from the most prestigious producers in the world, right the way down to tiny, little vineyards you’ve probably never heard of. If the sun is out, aim for a place on their back terrace. (E3) ul. Zajęcza 15, dekant.com.pl Dyletanci Filled with immaculate, modern citizens that drive beamers and jeeps, everyone here looks pretty pleased with themselves – and after a drink, so will you. Aside from the sensational cooking of Rafał Hreczaniuk, join the good lookers for an exceptional wine list that includes a hefty offer from Poland (inc. wines from the proprietor’s own label, Dom Bliskowice.

(F5) ul. Rozbrat 44, dyletanci.pl

Hoża You’ll probably know Hoża as the home of steak. But what is meat without wine? complementing the Argentine-inspired cooking is a wine list particularly dense with reds. (D5) ul. Hoża 25a, hoza.warszawa.pl

90

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2018

Kieliszki Na Hożej Pointing attention towards small and medium-sized European producers (Italian, in particular), sommelier Paweł Demianiuk has composed a wine list that’s interesting, smart but also comprehensible. Named in a nod to the 1,116 glasses that hang above the bar (we didn’t count, so don’t shoot the messenger), all wines are available by the glass. ul. Hoża 41, kieliszkinahozej.pl

Mielżyński Wine Bar Robert Mielżyński, a Canadian-born oenologist, awakened Warsaw’s love affair with the grape when he launched Mielżyński in 2004, and it continues to serve as the accepted benchmark to which all wine bars aspire. Their cause is amply boosted by a fine selection of bites to accompany the superlative wine offer. Find it in a pared down warehouse that emanates casual city cool. (A1) ul.

Burakowska 5/7, mielzynski.pl

Mielzynski Wine Bar Founded in 2004, this ivy-clad warehousestyle enterprise lit the touch paper for Poland’s wine revolution. Emanating casual city cool, it’s still the yardstick against which all others are measured.

It’s a default choice for first dates, and if things go well then walk amid the shelves and pick something for later. (G9) ul.

Czerska 12, mielzynski.pl

Nowina The striking interior that catches the eye from across the street – restored pre-war tiling, glinting surfaces, a world map rendered from corks and an engaging reddish glow all do their bit to lend Nowina the kind of atmosphere that’s missing in most local wine bars. Add to that an exciting international menu and a selection of over 400 wines and you have an absolute winner. ul. Nowogrodzka 4, nowina.waw.pl

Pani Wina The interiors respect the fin-de-siècle heritage of the building with elegantly demure decorations that evoke the spirit of Józef Mehoffer, while the wine offer – which includes four on tap – feels innovative and fun. With many wine bars feeling like vapid zones of deals and business, this is arguably the first such spot where beards and tatts outnumber

suits and ties. Enjoy it while you can: word on the street says they’ll be closing at the end of July and reopening at an as yet undisclosed location. (E5) ul. Wilcza 11, fb.com/PaniWina

Rusiko Wine Bar Designed to act as a casual extension of the neighboring Rusiko restaurant, this wine bar showcases Warsaw’s biggest selection of Georgian wine inside an interior that feels intimate, jazzy and highly atmospheric. Elaborate rugs, deep rouge in color, hang from tall sapphire walls, while impossibly high ceilings do much to generate a swirl of soft, muffled sound. A place of good mood and organic hospitality, it’s no surprise to learn that the bitey menu is an ample reflection of Rusiko’s award-winning reputation. (E5) Al. Ujazdowskie 22, fb.com/winebarrusiko

WinKolekcja The selection of New World wines is exceptional, though classicists are also catered for via an extensive choice of Spanish, French and Italian wines.

Their highly recommended restaurant provides further reason to linger inside a design that has the routine look of a club class lounge. (E10) ul. Olkuska 7, winkolekcja.pl

Winsky One of the strongest openings in recent months (on second thoughts, make that the strongest opening in recent months) presents a menu of itsty, teeny plates, a maverick selection of tap wines, top notch whisky, and an interior that’s all restrained velvety opulence. And then there’s the backdrop – nestled on the ground floor of The Tides development, windows face out onto the inky black waters of the river and the sparkling stadium just beyond. (F4) ul. Wioślarska 10 Żurawina Lacking in intimacy, this large white room gets criticized for its jarring artwork and staffing blips – in the world of wine it’s important the customer can connect to the staff: here, we felt like we were joining the SS. But both food and wine score highly, and they’ve earned a staunchly loyal following that includes high flying types and Paris Hilton wannabes that carry yappy dogs in their bag.

(D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34, zurawina.eu

DO!

PHOTOGRAPHS BY SOBIESLAW SZUMSKI

GREAT DANES Having started restoring furniture in the 90s, Adam Krzemiński’s career has taken him across the globe: with a successful online business already established in the States, the choice to open a flagship showroom back in his home country was the next natural step. Collaborating with a core group of expert craftsmen, his stylish pieces utilize artisanal techniques to return items to their fullest aesthetic potential. Though much of his furniture is sourced from France, Italy and the Czech Republic, it’s Denmark – and specifically Copenhagen – that holds the biggest fascination. “I travel across Europe looking for furniture and lightings,” says Adam, “though more often than not I’ll end up in Denmark: after all, that’s where I fell in love with the simplicity and quality of their mid-century design philosophy.” Visit his city center showroom and you will as well…

Future Antiques ul. Poznańska 3/14, futureantiques.eu

warsawinsider.pl

91

DO! World Cup

R O YA L W I L A N Ó W

EYES ON THE PRIZE

Practically every bar in town bit the bullet to broadcast World Cup matches, and despite Poland’s early elimination the majority will continue to do so right to its conclusion. But who wants to be stuck in a dark, grotty bar? As the tournament reaches its climax, grab a pint of something lovely and head outdoors to the city’s public screens…

Galeria Północna

While no-one in their right mind would usually recommend heading to a shopping center to watch the football, everyone’s happy to make the exception in the case of Galeria Północna. Grab something cold and fizzy from Bierhalle before settling down for the big match in their scenic rooftop garden. ul. Światowida 17

been the square itself, a sexy urban space scissored with curving pathways and water features. But more than just a pretty thing to pass through, the management of Europejski have been active in engaging the wider community with a number of initiatives: of the more successful, the unveiling of a big screen for the football has proved a welcome idea. Pl. Europejski 1

Plac Europejski

Royal Wilanów

Defined by the soaring form of the Warsaw Spire, when Plac Europejski opened we were warned it’d be more than just another office compound. Playing a key part in the delivery of that promise has

92

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2018

We were told to expect a big outdoor screen and a lorryload of deckchairs and that’s exactly what we got. Though the atmosphere is unlikely to hit the heady heights reached during Poland’s

first matches, Wilanów’s sizeable international community all but guarantees a passionate turnout for many of the higher profile games. ul. Klimczaka 1

The Wisła

Though less ambitious than the trio above, the riverfront too has predictably got involved with this World Cup malarkey. Found on a sandy stretch of the boulevards, take your pick from the deckchairs set out in front of a big screen north of the Copernicus Centre.

For a more partisan atmosphere, join the beer monsters that rock up for the evening games at the quite legendary Pomost 511.

DO! World Cup

P L AC E U R O P E J S K I

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF ORGANIZERS

GA L E R I A P Ó Ł N O C N A

warsawinsider.pl

93

DO! Events SPORT Warsaw Derby Gala

Jul 1 @ Służewiec Racecourse, ul. Puławska 266 The most prestigious horse race in Poland has a tradition that dates back to 1896. For many though, the racing is but a side note when compared to the ladies hat competition!

EDITOR’S PICK French Ball Jul 13 @ Endorfina Foksal, ul. Foksal 2 Regarded as one of the key society events of the summer, the annual French Ball will feature an open bar, boules on the lawn, a French buffet, live music and a firework display. Vive la France!

For further info, see: torsluzewiec.pl

FESTIVAL Warsaw Summer Jazz Days

Tickets from zł. 150 @ bilety24.pl

FESTIVAL Otwarta Ząbkowska

Jul 7-8 & 21-22 @ ul. Ząbkowska Colorful, energetic and audaciously eccentric, this street festival sees Ząbkowska, Praga’s spiritual gateway, closed to traffic and transformed courtesy of outbreaks of street yoga, cooking workshops, live gigs, literary readings and vintage vinyl markets. And that’s the tip of the iceberg.

For further info, see: otwartazabkowska.pl

FESTIVAL Quiet Zone Music Festival

Every Sat & Sun @ Łazienki Park This festival returns for a sixth year running with a series of weekend concerts covering a varied range of genres: jazz, classical and ‘traditional’.

For more info, check: strefaciszyfestival.pl

FESTIVAL Jazz in the Old Town

Every Sat, 19:00 @ Pl. Zamkowy Running each Saturday throughout the summer, the

94

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2018

24th edition of Jazz in the Old Town will bring together a number of international artists to perform for free in the Rynek and Pl. Zamkowy. Attracting audiences of up to 4,000 people, artists booked for July include the Gerardo Nunez Quartet, the Esja Trio and the David Murray Quartet.

For further info, see: jazznastarowce.pl

CONCERT Chopin in the Park

Every Sunday, 12:00 & 16:00 @ Chopin Statue, Łazienki Park Listen to some of Poland’s top talents – young and old – recite works from Chopin’s oeuvre in the rose-fringed gardens of Łazienki Park.

The Sunday concerts run each summer and attract crowds of hundreds.

FESTIVAL Street Art Festival

Ongoing till 1 July @ various locations The festival showcases abstract, often brilliant, street theater plays courtesy of troupes from across Europe. The festival aims to integrate art with the every-

day landscape of the city, and as such you can expect events to take place in parks, metro stations and other public spaces.

For info, see: sztukaulicy.pl

FESTIVAL Muical Gardens Festival

Ongoing till 31 July @ Royal Castle, Pl. Zamkowy Film screenings, concerts and operatic performances will be held pretty much every day inside the courtyard of the Royal Castle.

For details, see: ogrodymuzyczne.pl

FILM Filmowa Stolica

Throughout Jul @ various locations A series of open air film screenings in scenic locations across the capital: among them Royal Wilanów, the Copernicus Science Center, Pole Mokotowskie and… Metro Słodowiec. The repertoire is as diverse as the locations – this year films include Sniper, Ada, Murder on the Orient Express and La La Land.

For more info, check: facebook. com/filmowastolica

Jul 5-8 @ Soho Factory, ul.

Mińska 25 July is definitely the Jazz Month of Warsaw, with the highlight being the Summer Jazz Days festival, dating all the way back to the 90s.

Performers this year include the Brad Mehldau Trio, Hudson, the Soweto Kinch Trio and Binker & Moses.

For details, see: warsawsummerjazzdays.pl

CONCERT Rolling Stones

Jul 8 @ National Stadium, ul. Poniatowskiego 1 It would be no exaggeration to call this the biggest concert in modern Warsaw’s history! The final date on what’s rumored to be their last ever major global tour, it’s a night that promises to live long in local legend.

Sold out well in advance, your only hope of a last minute ticket is paying a tout well over the odds: many will do just that, and few will live to regret it.

SPORT Warsaw Uprising Run Jul 28 @ city center Limited to 11,000 runners, this annual run will have two routes this year: one covering a distance of five kilometers, the other a distance of ten kilometers. To register, see: aktywnawarszawa. waw.pl

informacje i bilety: www.adamiakjazz.pl Projek t wspó ł finansuje m.st. Warszawa

Dofinansowano ze środków Ministra Kultur y i Dziedzic t wa Narodowego

Par tnerz y

Patroni medialni

DO! Museums

F RY D E RY K C H O P I N M U S E U M

Car Museum From Lech Wałesa’s Volvo to Gomułka’s ZIS limo, from German wartime armor to a pretty-in-pink Buick Skylark: incredible in its peculiarity, the random layout, oily smells and cobwebbed corners only add to the sense of treading somewhere special. ul. Warszawska 21 (Otrębusy), muzuem-motorzyacji.com.pl

Copernicus Science Centre Featuring hundreds of interactive exhibitions, it’s a place that allows young and old alike to blast objects into space, experience an earthquake or steer exploratory robots. ul.

Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, kopernik.org.pl

CSW Situated in a baroque-style castle the center hosts artists from all over the world.

The on-site bookshop is of particular interest for artists and intellectuals. ul. Jazdów 2, csw.art.pl

Dom Spotkań z Historią The History Meeting House wins points for small but frequently excellent exhibitions that cover topics such as ‘rebuilding Warsaw’ and

96

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2018

‘Socialist Realist architecture.’

K AT Y Ń M U S E U M

ul. Okólnik 1, chopin.museum

ul. Karowa 20, dsh.waw.pl

Ethnographic Museum Considerably revamped to meet the demands and attention-spans of the 21st century sightseer, the Ethnographic Museum is a visual pleasure that showcases colorful costumes, fabrics and ceramics from Poland and beyond. ul. Kredytowa 1,

The Heritage Interpretation Center This small venue tells the complex story of Old Town’s reconstruction: if the first section about Warsaw’s physical elimination is poignant, then the others do a fabulous job of sharing the optimism and alacrity that followed. ul.

Brzozowa 11-13, mhw.pl

ethnomuseum.pl

Fotoplastikon Thought to date from 1905, Warsaw’s Fotoplastikon generates 3D perspectives from a set of 2D images: visitors peer through an eyepiece and are taken on a trip around the world while music from days yore parps away in the background. Al. Jerozolimskie 51, fotoplastikonwarszawski.pl

Fryderyk Chopin Museum The 18th century Ostrogski Palace is the perfect foil for the ultra-modern content of this multi-sensory space. The personal items are enchanting, but the big victory here is the museum’s ability to suck visitors right back into the times of Chopin through the use of interactive sights and sounds.

Invisible Exhibition Head to the Invisible Exhibition to learn first-hand the challenges faced by the blind.

This includes everything from crossing the road to ordering a drink in a bar. Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, niewidzialna.pl

Jewish Historical Institute Officially opened in 1947 the Jewish Historical Institute was created to serve as an archive of Jewish culture in Warsaw. It contains artwork, historical artifacts and important documents from the city’s rich Jewish past. ul.

spring of 1940. Beyond its quite staggering architectural merit, the museum has done a stunning job of collecting and presenting artifacts relating to the slaughter. ul. Jeziorańskiego 4, muzeumkatynskie.pl

Marie Skłodowska-Curie Musuem Reopened after a significant re-haul, this museum celebrates the groundbreaking scientist that discovered polonium. The Curie-osities include lab equipment, her trademark black dress and even her nail file. ul. Freta 16, en.muzeum-msc.pl

Museum of Communist Life Lovingly assembled by its young owner, the museum is split into a few different sections: one devoted to state and subversive literature, and another that recreates an empty store typical of the times. Our highlight, though, is the recreation of a commie-era apartment. ul.

Tłomackie 3/5, jhi.pl

Glucha (opposite Soho Factory), adventurewarsaw.com

Katyń Museum This museum commemorates the murder of 21,000 Polish officers by the Soviets in the

Museum of Praga The Praga Museum tells the story of the area with such charm and simplicity that it

DO! Museums

POLIN

manages to leave an unlikely impression that’s as punchy as that of the big institutions.

Star billing goes to a restored Jewish prayer room and the Flying Carpet: an exhibit festooned with various trinkets and treasures once available for purchase from local pavement traders. ul. Targowa 50/52, muzeumwarszawy.pl

Museum of Warsaw Over 8,000 objects detail the story of Warsaw, and these include peculiar souvenirs, scale models, old postcards and recovered works of art.

Cohesive and comprehensive yet never too overwhelming, the trail climaxes with vertiginous views of the Rynek below. Unmissable.

ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org

Palmiry National Memorial Museum An excellent multimedia exhibition set next to a cemetery holding the graves of 1,700 Poles executed in the first years of Nazi occupation.

The museum tells their forgotten story as well as that of the siege and subsequent occupation of Warsaw. Palmiry, palmiry.mhw.pl

National Museum Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars. Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.

Pawiak What was once a Tsarist prison assumed a doubly sinister function under the Nazis. Some 100,000 Polish political prisoners were held here, 37,000 of which were executed on-site. Split in two sections, cells are found on one side, while on the other the full story of the invasion and occupation. ul. Dzielna

art.pl

24/26

The Neon Museum Filled with salvaged signage,

Polin Composed of eight galleries,

Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42, muzeumwarszawy.pl

this museum houses several dozen neons that once lit up the capital. The emphasis is firmly on the PRL era, a time when the nation’s best graphic designers were nutty for neon.

M U S E U M O F WA R S AW

each covers a different stage of local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day. Highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec synagogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical inter-war Jewish Warsaw street. Named the European Museum of the Year in 2016. ul. Anielewicza

the 1944 Uprising in town.

Exhibits range from a full-size replica of a Liberator plane, to a sewer beneath the cinema screen and a slice of bread preserved from 1944.

And don’t miss the ‘City of Ruins’, a five minute 3D film which takes you on an aerial journey over devastated Warsaw. ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl

6, polin.pl

The Royal Castle in Warsaw Highlights include the lavishly restored 18th century royal apartments with 22 paintings

by Canaletto, the Senators’ Chamber in which the Constitution of the Third of May was signed, the biggest collection of oriental rugs in Europe and two remarkable Rembrandt paintings. Pl. Zamkowy 4, zamek-krolewski.pl

The Warsaw Amber Museum Part of Bursztynek, a dedicated amber shop, has been turned into a curious museum detailing the history of amber. Rynek Starego Miasta 4/6, bursztynek.co

Warsaw Rising Museum Cope with the crowds to discover the definitive story of

Wola Museum What was once a dreary old place has been rebooted as a smart community-minded museum and one of the most forward-thinking institutions in the capital. Bringing the wider area of Wola alive, find engaging content that’s creatively presented: posters, family memorabilia and various media relating to the area. ul. Srebrna 12, mhw.pl Zachęta National Art Gallery Regarded as one of Poland’s most prestigious galleries, the Zachęta has a busy program of temporary exhibitions that frequently showcase some of the biggest names in domestic and international contemporary art. Pl. Małachowskiego 3, zacheta.art.pl warsawinsider.pl

97

DO! Education preschools American School of Warsaw American School of Warsaw provides a rich, meaningful and balanced educational experience through age-appropriate activities to students aged 3 to 5. For further information

and/or to visit our school, contact:admissions@aswarsaw.org or 22 ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel.

22 702 85 00, aswarsaw.org 702

85 00.

The British Primary School of Wilanรณw Following the National Curriculum of

England and Wales, this is the first School in Poland subject to the inspection of the UK Independent School Inspectorate. Pupils receive British and, upon request, Polish reports/ diplomas. The school follows a closed admissions policy and limits enrollment of one nationality to below 50% of each class starting from Year 1. ul. Hlonda 12, bsww.pl

Summer School Join us!

Casa dei Bambini Warsaw Montessori School invites all children for a special summer program from July 2nd to August 3rd:

English speaking environment Montessori curriculum Field trips Special visitors Art Cooking Gardening Animals Nature and much more!

The British School Early Years Centre The British School provides EYFS classes from Pre-nursery (age 30 months) to Reception (5 years old). Children develop quickly and their Early Years practitioners aim to do all they can to help your child have the best possible start in life and become a lifelong learner. ul. Dฤ browskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646 7777, thebritishschool.pl

The Canadian School of Warsaw Preschool Welcoming students from the ages of 2.5 to 6 years old, currently 45% of their admissions are international students. The dedicated, IB-trained teachers deliver an innovative program (PYP) in English designed for modern world needs. The program offers a combination of Literacy, Maths, Social Studies, Science, Physical Education, Art, Music & Rhythmics, French and Polish classes. ul.

Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, canadian-school.pl

warsaw montessori family

Accepting applications for children from To join our summer program please 2-5 (Casa program) and 6-12 (Elementary contact: tel. +48 692 099 134 program) office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl Location: Casa dei Bambini, Badowska 19 (behind building Sielecka 52)

www.wmf.edu.pl

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations) Warsaw Montessori School Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have three green and harmonious locations in Mokotรณw and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in earlychildhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotรณw), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16

98

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2018

DO! Education (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob.

692 099 134, warsawmontessori. edu.pl

International School of Warsaw The ISW offers education for children aged from 3 to 18-years-old. The school campus is set amid picturesque countryside near Piaseczno and provides a holistic education that combines a high quality curriculum based on the International Baccalaureate program with extra scholarly activities such as outdoor classes, robotics or STEAM. Lessons are conducted in English or French as the main language.

The ISW is the only school in Poland accredited by the

European Union. ul. Mazowiecka 43, www.isw.edu.pl

International Trilingual School of Warsaw Established in 1994, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fillimmersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25,

tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/ saint-exupery.pl

The English Playhouse The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów.

The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old.

For more info or to arrange a tour call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email: jnowak@theenglishplayhouse. com ul. Pływiańska 14a, tel. 22 843 9370, tep.edu.pl

Happy Montessori House The Happy Montessori House

offers part-time and full-time places for children aged between 2 to 6 years, as well as toddler-focused activities (from 18 months to 3 years) centered around movement, sensorial stimulation, storytelling, singing and socializing.

Warsaw Montessori Pre-school, ul. Rumiana 14, tel. 22 423 50 75, mob. 697 060 504, hmh.com.pl

Maple Tree Montessori Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two

Celebrating

25 years of

British Education in Warsaw

www.thebritishschool.pl

warsawinsider.pl

99

DO! Education classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). ul. Piechoty

schools

Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/Petyhorska), tel.

531 599 444, mapletreemontessori.pl

Montessori Academy for International Children An English-speaking pre-school (16 months to 6 years of age) with two locations. The school’s policy is to comply with Montessori standards, using the Montessori Method in English.

The school’s philosophy is based on the joy of learning, which comes from discovering and furthering the individual development of each child. ul.

Królewicza Jakuba 36 (Wilanów), ul. Sadowa 4 (Konstancin), Open 8:00-16:45, tel. 502 315 022, montessoriacademy.eu

100 Warsaw Insider | JULY 2018

American School of Warsaw ASW is a premier collegepreparatory international school that offers a PK-12 curriculum, including the IB Diploma Program in Grades 11 and 12. Students are inspired and challenged every day by experienced and dedicated teachers, who provide enriching learning opportunities in a world class facility. For further information contact: admissions@aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00. ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, aswarsaw.org

The British Primary School of Wilanów Following the National Curriculum of England and Wales, this is the first School in Poland subject to the inspection of the UK Independent School Inspectorate. Pupils receive British and, upon request, Polish reports/ diplomas. The school follows a closed admissions policy and limits enrollment of one nationality to below 50% of each class starting from Year 1. ul. Hlonda 12, bsww.pl

The British School Premium international school established in 1992 by Nord Anglia Education. The cur-

riculum is designed to provide the highest academic quality of education. They follow the English National Curriculum, adapted to the needs of their international student community: from Primary through to the Secondary Key Stages to the IGCSE examinations and a well-established International Baccalaureate (IB) Diploma Program. ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, thebritishschool.pl

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations) Warsaw Montessori School Guided by trained specialists, students will be responsible for managing their household, operating small businesses,

DO! Education caring for local flora and fauna as well as domesticated animals, taking charge of the younger children and much more. “Adolescence Program” activities, integrated with academic studies, help students discover their inner strength to meet life’s real challenges. ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, warsawmontessori.edu.pl

The Canadian School of Warsaw International Elementary and Middle School Located on two campuses in the Mokotów this is the only authorized IB School with PYP programs taught in English and Polish. French is taught as a third language. Offers a wide range of extra activities, a summer school, and employs a full time psychologist. Provision is made for additional Polish and English support.

International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create the perfect learning environment. ul. Bełska 7, tel. 692 411 573 / 885 420 044, secretary@canadian-

school.pl or secretary.olimpijska@ canadian-school.pl

The English Primary The English Primary is designed specifically for children in the primary education ages, just as children experience in England but in an international community.

Pupils are taken through the key learning stages so that they can achieve to the best of their ability through a fun learning experience. The Core Curriculum subjects include English, Phonics, Science, Mathematics, French, PE and Swimming, Music, Personal, Social and Health Education. ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 784 037 808, tep.edu.pl

International School of Warsaw The International School of Warsaw offers education for children 3 to 18 years old. It provides an IB education that combines a high-quality, international curriculum, combined with extra,

interdisciplinary classes, such as outdoor education, robotics and STEaM. Lessons are conducted in English or French as a main language. Additionally, students can choose foreign language classes from Polish, Spanish, German, Chinese, English, Russian, or French. ISW is the only school in Warsaw that’s in partnership with the European Union. ISW is also hosting an English Summer Camp for children aged 4 to 16 throughout the entire summer. www.isw.edu.pl

637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/ saint-exupery.pl

Monnet International School Located in Mokotów, the Monnet is the only school in Poland that implements the International Baccalaureate Program from kindergarten level all the way through to secondary school. The fullyqualified staff are committed to delivering only the highest standards of education. ul.

Stępińska 13, tel. 22 852 06 08, maturamiedzynarodowa.pl

International Trilingual School of Warsaw Established in 1994, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fillimmersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036

adult learning Cup of Polish Personalized Polish classes adapted to meet your needs.

Also home/company visits and online courses. For a free 60-minute trial email: kontakt@cupofpolish.com cupofpolish.com

Edu & More Polish Language School incorporating modern teaching methods and reasonable prices, polishonlinenow.com

warsawinsider.pl

101

DO! Health & Beauty cycling stores & service Bikeman On-road, x-road and off-road bikes, with brands including Alpina, Burley, Ergon and Giant. Al. Wyzwolenia 14, bikeman.pl

Galeria Sztuki Rowerowej Glorious bikes, many of them vintage, and many of them in colors that’ll make you the talk of the town. ul. Widok 10 Kettler The world-renowned Kettler brand brings the full extent of their offer to Warsaw. On the bike front that means mountain bikes, city and their innovative e-bikes. ul. Okopowa 56, pl.kettler.net

data to improve your game. ul.

Burakowska 15, centrumgolf.pl

First Warsaw Golf & Country Club Features a par 72, 18-hole championships golf course, all year driving range, luxurious club house and a stunning environment replete with gliding swans and bouncing bunnies! The final hole, set on an island, attracts golfers from across Poland and beyond. ul. Golfowa (Jabłonna), firstwarsawgolf.com Golf Parks Poland Keen golfers (all ages) can perfect their swing at this friendly, well equipped driving range, whilst beginners can opt for professional individual lessons or beginner group programs in English or Polish. ul. Vogla 19, golfparkspoland.pl

golf Centrum Golf Fulfill the dream of playing at Pebble Beach or Torrey Pines by booking a tee-time on one of Centrum Golf’s HD golf simulators. Added benefits include instant analysis and

102 Warsaw Insider | JULY 2018

gyms

Exuma Gym Warsaw’s latest luxury gym features equipment by

Life Fitness and Hammer Strength, a wellness zone, private parking and stunning views of the National Stadium across the river. ul. Wioślarska 10, exumagym.com

Holmes Place Energy High standard equipment, personal training and group classes. Six month membership available for approx. zł.

200 per month, though prices are subject to change. Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (C.H. Arkadia), ul.

Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), holmesplace.pl

Holmes Place Premium Three ‘premium locations’, with the Hilton and Regent branches housing a 25-meter pool. Sauna and steam room facilities are available in all all three, as are a varied timetable of classes plus personal training. ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel), ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), holmesplace.pl

McFit A 2,000 sq/m studio that utilizes the latest technology as well as ‘cyber training’ programs. Open 24/7, with

membership from zł. 89 per month. ul. Świętokrzyska 3 (corner of Nowy Świat), mcfit.com

Quantum Fitness A place of quiet, understated luxury, equipment is state-ofthe-art and complemented by expert trainers at the peak of their game. This is the full 24-carat gym experience. ul.

Piękna 15, quantumpiekna.pl

RiverView Wellness Centre Top-class facilities and equipment, private instructors and small classes. The view from the highest pool in Europe offers a glorious panorama of the city and is almost worth the membership fee alone.

Annual prices begin from around zł. 4,000. ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental), riverview. com.pl

spas & salons Clochee Natural, organic cosmetic brand that’s been dubbed a ‘pro-health project for your body and soul’. Using only certified ingredients, Clochee’s beauty products

DO! Health & Beauty bring you closer to nature.

Newly-launched, their flagship store also houses a top-notch spa facilities. ul. Nowolipki 13, spa.clochee. com/spa

ouch!

You & You Maciej Wróblewski Poland’s premier hair stylist is Maciej Wróblewski, and his flagship salon fuses a personal approach with professional styling. Disappointments are unheard of. ul.

Grzybowska 61 (Galeria Platinum Towers), youandyou.eu

pools, though most agree it is the one in the Hilton branch that’s the best. Inquire direct about membership fees. ul.

Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel), ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), holmesplace.pl

RiverView Wellness Centre Another members only pool, and this one is really worth the membership cost – it’s the highest pool in Europe. Stunning views of Warsaw make this a swim to remember. ul.

Emilii Plater 49, riverview.com.pl

DEPILACJA WOSKIEM

Ouch!

Experts in waxing, Ouch! aim their offer at ‘busy women looking for express treatments with lasting effects who, at the same time, appreciate a sense of intimacy’. ul. Belwederska 32, ouch.pl

PARDON MY FRENCH

manicure pedicure

Pardon My French Manicure and pedicure treatments with high quality lacquers and an awareness of global trends: if you need an endorsement, Paul McCartney visited when he was in Poland! ul.

Belwederska 32; Bonifraterska 8; ul. Mokotowska 56, ul. Wilcza 3 pardonmyfrench.pl

The Pedicure Place A luxury pedi/manicure clinic with room for 10. All the latest OPI varnishes and over 200 colors guarantee you’ll find the latest in styling and nail care. ul. Pokorna

sport Fly Spot Ever wanted to know what it’s like to fly? As in really fly??

Find out inside a vertical wind tunnel where fans whirring at a speed of up to 310 km/hr will send you shooting up in the air. Wspólna Droga 1 (Mory), flyspot.com

Hangar 646 Hangar 646 touts 50 interlinked trampolines, a ping pong zone, ball pools and even a snowboard slide where visitors hurtle down a ramp before splashing down on an inflatable mattress. ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 646, hangar646.pl

Stacja Grawitacja Set over 3,200 sq/m of space, this indoor trampoline extravaganza sends visitors bouncing down ‘ninja obstacle courses’, sky slamming basketball hoops and jumping around engaged in dodgeball shenanigans. ul. Bohaterów Września 12, stacjagrawitacja.pl

2, pedicure-place.pl

Quantum Clinic Using first class, pioneering methods and technology, the Quantum Clinic surpasses the norms that Warsaw has become used to. ul. Piękna 15, quantumpiekna.pl

Studio Jej i Jego Hair and beauty treatments for men and women – inc. nail care, massage, facial and body treatments. ul.

Wiertnicza 93A, jejijego.pl

HIDDEN HISTORY OF POLISH

swimming Aquapark Wesolandia ul. Wspólna 4 (Wesoła), wesolandia.pl Features a recreational

pool, kids pool and a 25 meter pool for more serious swimmers. Also on-site, a water tube, Jacuzzi, tennis and fitness facilities.

Holmes Place Premium All the ‘premier’ outposts of Holmes Place tout swimming

S

ummer: a time to stock-up on sunshine and store positive energy for the long moonlit autumn that will inevitably follow.

While today we recognize the sun as a star and the moon as its satellite, back in the old days we looked upon the sun as the ruling king (słońce) and the moon as its successor (książę). When the clergy became a stronger player in Poland, this led to the creation of two words: ksiądz (priest) and książę (duke). Książę is also related to the word książka (book). That’s because, back in the past, wooden boards were decorated with letters to produce early-form written announcements. But why the association? Because the wood for these boards was taken from the forests that belonged to these dukes.

Interestingly, the English word ‘book’ is phonetically similar to the Polish word Bóg (God).

According to linguists, that alone had multiple meanings: ‘spreading the word’, ‘giving wealth and happiness’, or, just like the sun, ‘giving warmth and light’. Have a sunny summer!

by Dagmara Sobiecka, cupofpolish.com

warsawinsider.pl

103

DO! Shopping Listings fashion Ania Kuczyńska Ania Kuczyńska is becoming well known for her highly fashionable, minimalist clothing designs. The store also carries adorable baby clothes and various accessories. ul.

Mokotowska 61

Balthazar An atelier, boutique and private tailor with several unique brands. Book your meeting by calling tel. 535 545 728. ul. Mokotowska 64 (Plac Trzech Krzyży), balthazar.pl

Cafardini Complete suits start at zł. 2,600 and rise to zł. 4,500, depending on the fabric. Using the finest natural raw materials, Cafardini even offer a ‘suit spa’ – a special care package that will see you suit regain its fresh look if it has been worn intensively. ul. Grzybowska 5A, cafardini.com

Chiara A solid assortment of Marc Jacobs and other top international designers such as Michael Kors and Jil Sander. ul. Mokotowska 49 & Pl. Uni Lubelskiej, tel. 22 647 0394, chiara-online.pl

Chrum Amid a quirky design that mimics a butcher’s store, find a cult collection of tees and hoodies emblazoned with playful slogans and punchy graphics. Showcasing the fun side of Polski design, Chrum caters to customers who enjoy their fashion with a pinch of humor. ul. Dobra 53, chrum.com di Trevi Boutique Aimed at both him and her, di Trevi present the freshest Italian footwear releases from prestige brands such as Ballin and Loriblu. Handbags are also available inside a chic

104 Warsaw Insider | JULY 2018

interior that exudes luxury. ul.

evening wear. ul. Mokotowska

Piękna 11A, ditrevi.pl

61, justpaul.pl

Dream Nation Founded in 2011, Dream Nation is a label committed to sustainable fashion. Find colorful dresses and original prints spruced up by the designer’s wild, personal twist.

All garments are made using organic cotton. l. Kopernika 8/18,

L’Aura L’Aura is the only place in the city where you can find unique pieces from the likes of Hussein Chalayan, Dries Van Noten and Veronique Branquinho. ul.

dreamnation.pl

EM Cashmere Boutique Available brands include Allude Cashmere, Annette Görtz, Studiorundholz and Sarah Pacini with 30-40% discounts on last year’s collections, and up to 70% on those of previous years. ul. Szczygla 8,

Mokotowska 26

Likus Concept Store The Likus Concept Store brings ultra-chic designer clothing to Warsaw. The latest collections from Diesel, D2, Ferre, Stone Island, Sophia Kokosalaki and J. Lindeberg are all available and presented in this stylish three-floor department store. ul. Bracka 9 (Vitkac), likusconceptstore.pl

emcashmere.pl

Femi Stories Aimed at the young, active woman of today, Femi Pleasure’s dynamic range of clothing is both urban and outdoorsy. ‘Unique design, quality and comfort’ are the sacred three pillars upon which their philosophy is built.

Lolly Pop Boutique Latest fashion from See by Chloe, Calvin Klein, Calvin Klein Jeans, Melissa, UnitedNude, Bronx and many more. For online shopping, check: sklep. lollypop.pl Al. Jerozolimskie 169 lok 45A (C.H. Blue City, level 1), lollypop.pl

ul. Browarna 4, femistories.com

Hamper’s Bay Fit out and fit into the local scene by stocking up on clothes from this Powiśle staple. Brands include Komono, Dynomighty, Uggly, Happy Socks and Wemoto.

No-one knows why, or too whom, but they also sell surfboards. ul. Dobra 11,

Lui Store Elegant female fashion store with brands including Attico, Paul Andrew, Jonathan Simkhai, and Markus Lupfer, as well as lesser-known names making their first in-roads into the world of high fashion. ul.

hampersbay.com

Mokotowska 26, lui-store.com

Moncler, One Teaspoon, Simonetta Ravizza, Tod’s, Tory Burch, Valentino, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon. ul.

Moliera 2, moliera2.com

Pan Tu Nie Stal Polish design at its peak: fashion is prominent, but there’s also interesting bitsy things such as aprons, jam jars, notebooks and mugs – all with a defiantly Polish twist.

Eccentric, unusual and emphatically on-trend, it’s a must-visit. Koszykowa 35/40, pantuniestal.com

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Brands include: Beach Bunny, Buscemi, Canada Goose, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Dsquared 2, Christian Louboutin, Fay, Gianvito Rossi, Hogan, Kenzo, Kotur, Moncler, Mr& Mrs Italy, One Teaspoon, Ralph Lauren, Simonetta Ravizza, Tom Ford, Tory Burch, Valentino, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon. Childrenswear: Burberry Children, Dsquared2 Kids, Kenzo Kids, Moncler Kids, Ralph Lauren Kids, Tod’s Kids.

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, plactrzechkrzyzy.com

Ptasia 6 A unique ladies concept store showcasing the works of both emerging and established independent Polish fashion labels such as Eva Grygo, Confashion, Horror! Horror!, Kasia Miciak and Polanka. ul.

Ptasia 6, ptasia6.pl

Just Paul Exuding confident femininity, this energetic brand is characterized by its light and unobtrusive elegance and sense of effortless nonchalance. Founded in 2012 by designers Justyna and Paula, Just Paul seeks to address the needs of the modern woman with its line in chic but casual clothing and more dazzly

Moliera 2 Boutique Brands include: Alexandre Birman, Alexandre Vauthier, Anya Hindmarch, Aquazzura, Balmain, Beach Bunny, Buscemi, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Francesco Russo, Gianvito Rossi, Herve Leger, Isabel Marant, Jimmy Choo, Kenzo, Kotur, Maison Michel,

QπШ - Robert Kupisz One of Warsaw’s hottest fashion icons, and a trip here soon explains why. The exclusive, handmade garments are a guaranteed head turner. ul.

Mokotowska 48/204 (courtyard), robertkupisz.com

Redford and Grant This multi-brand fashion

DO! Shopping Listings store offers clothing and accessories from the newest collections from all the major international designers such as Dior, YSL, D&G, Gucci, Miu Miu and Prada. Metropolitan Building, Pl. Piłsudskiego 3, redfordandgrant.pl

Reykjavik District Chic, well-cut menswear for all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal. ul. Burakowska 15, reykjavikdistrict.com

Risk. Made In Warsaw Mixing modern shapes with expert tailoring, the idea was to create a look that’s both comfortable yet chic. That they’ve been featured in the likes of Vogue and Elle suggests that this target has been accomplished. ul. Szpitalna 9, riskmadeinwarsaw.com

Sabotage Those in-the-know know Sabotage as one of the places to buy funky deconstructed denim and sportswear pieces. Here you’ll find a wide array of unique clothes, hats, belts and handbags in a variety of fabrics and styles that hail straight from New York, London and Tokyo. ul.

Burakowska 5/7

Safripsti Formerly a make-up artist in London and Paris, owner Magdalena returned to Poland to open a vintage boutique.

Buying wholesale – meaning prices are kept in check – her fashion store presents finds like authentic cheerleader outfits and Hawaiian shirts for summer, not to mention a great selection of denim, parkers and so forth. ul.

collection includes the latest lines from Joseph, Diane Von Furstenberg, Daniela De Marchi and many others besides. Scented interiors and expert service (who know how to brew a coffee) make it the ideal place in which to browse the afternoon the away. ul.

Mokotowska 51/53, seeme.com.pl

Snobissimo ul. Mokotowska 28 Top labels from design houses like Jimmy Choo, Sonia Rykiel, Les Copains, Sergio Rossi etc., etc.

With shoes and accessories all provided for, it’s a one-stop shop to re-boot your wardrobe.

Teresa Rosati Al. Witosa 31 (Panorama), teresarosati.com.pl Elegant cocktail

dresses, gowns for special occasions and beautiful fabrics from one of Poland’s best-known designers. Readyto-wear and custom-made services at discreet location in Sadyba by appointment.

Mokotowska 41, wakeupthebear. com

Wearso.organic If you love extravagant forms and monochromes this is the place is for you. Designers use only natural materials. Aside from clothes and fashion accessories you’ll also find several items for home. ul.

Boya- Żeleńskiego 2, wearso.com

Zaremba Originally inspired by the Savile Row style, Zaremba have been fitting out gentlemen of Warsaw since 1898.

Under Maciej Zaremba, the brand has moved forward to take into account global trends while also respecting its past. ul. Nowogrodzka 15, zarembakrawiec.pl

home

Coqlila Home products with a marked provincial French style. Among the offer are fabrics, fragrances, furniture and kitchenware. ul. Lentza 20 (Wilanów), coqlila.pl

Dado Design ‘Beauty, modernity and functionality’. It’s on these foundations Dado’s philosophy is built. Touting brands such as Bruhl, Gaber, Slide and Infiniti, this design store carries pieces chosen for their style and originality. Find it all from sofas and tables to picture frames and salt shakers. ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), dadodesign.pl

Długa Showroom Decorative plaster materials from Novacolor and porcelain from Visa Alegre (the official china of the White House and Buckingham Palace) are a couple of reasons to go here for spending. ul. Długa 8/14, dlugashowroom.pl

Transparent Shopping Collective Looking to reinterpret classic fashions whilst favoring proportional cuts, simplicity and high-quality natural fabrics, the Transparent Shopping Collective’s stated mission is ‘to return to accuracy and refinement’. ul. Mysia 3 (second

Apteka Sztuki Apteka Sztuki is an art gallery that features collections by up-and-coming contemporary artists, preferring promising unknowns to big names.

The exhibits, which rotate on a monthly basis, include a variety of media created by artists from all over Europe. Al.

floor)

Wyzwolenia 3/5

Viola Śpiechowicz Inspiring, unpretentious and highly creative, Viola Śpiechowicz reinvisions what it means to be feminine by giving classic styles a progressive edge – choose from limited pret a porter collection and exclusive haute couture creations. ul. Chopina

Bo Concept Lovely, clean lines make this one of the best places to invest in good furniture and statement accessories for the home. ul. Woronicza 31,

Oleandrów 3

5B, violaspiechowicz.com

See Me Boutique Regarded as one of the stalwart boutiques of Mokotowska, See Me’s

Wake Up The Bear Stylish ‘travel practical’ clothes as designed by the acclaimed Viola Spiechowicz. Featuring

106 Warsaw Insider | JULY 2018

natural fabrics and multipurpose add-ons, this is the ultimate in comfort clothes. ul.

Galeria 2 Deco A small yet concise collection of brilliant home furnishings that combine the classic with contemporary at fair prices.

Special orders and consulting also available. ul. Wilcza 71 Le Pukka For interior inspirations take a look at Le Pukka: highly original furniture and decorative pieces for the home come from the likes of Smeg, AreaDeclic, HK Living and Zuiver. ul. Solec 58/60, lepukka.pl

Cotton Ball Lights Offering 40 different varieties and colors of cotton-wrapped bulbs, these simple lights stand to transform your living space with their soft, gentle glow. ul. Chmielna 27/31,

Magazyn Praga A visit to this home design store is guaranteed to transform your apartment.

Showcasing emerging Polish talent, the items here are not without humor: ceramic French bulldogs are particularly popular. ul. Mińska

cottonballlights.pl

25 (Soho Factory)

boconcept.com

DO! Shopping Listings Maison Creative Deck out your pad in flouncy French style with simply extraordinary furniture from the Mis en Demeure brand. ul.

pieces: life sized moldings of animals, illuminated Jesus statues, edgy art, etc. ul.

Mokotowska 45, maisoncreative. com.pl

Plantarium Following Scandinavian concepts of form, color and aesthetics, beautiful Plantarium presents stunning plant arrangements that will help revolutionize your home space. ul. Puławska 38,

Makutra To know and not to cook, is not to know. This store has everything a master chef seeks: from tagines to mezzalunas, it’s got the lot covered. Huge stock of cook books and kitchenware. ul.

Oleandrów 5, makutra.com

Mokotowska 71 Offering creations by Belgian and French designers, this shop just screams elegance, beauty and style. ul.

Mokotowska 71, mokotowska71.pl

Murano Casa From high bling (fancy chandeliers and gob-stopping furniture) to more moderate offers (Venetian carnival masks), it’s a great place to add some pizzazz to the home.

Piękna 24/26A, muranocasa.pl

Nap Bedtime accessories are the bread and butter here, but there’s also several bits for the kitchen as well: coffee makers

by Tom Dixon, posh pans from Baumalu, arty saltshakers from Menu and tableware from Muubs. ul. Mysia 3

Szpitalna 8A, piesczysuka.com

plantarium.pl

Porcelanowa Award-winning, contemporary Polish porcelain produced by cult, internationally recognized brands such as Aoomi and Fenek. ul. Kredytowa 2, porcelanowa.com

Red Poppy Being the first hand-printing design studio in Poland, they focus primarily on making one-of-a-kind wallpapers as well curtains, lampshades, and cushions. ul. Lekarska 9,

Pańska 98 (enter from ul. Prosta), noonnoon.pl

Pies Czy Suka Husband and wife team Beata Konarska and Paweł Konarski push the boundaries of creativity in a home design store that’s heavy with statement

ul. Dąbrowskiego 15A, secretlife.pl

SH Studio Art, interior design and furniture are married together inside a tiny store stacked with beautiful antique and retro pieces that have been refurbished and redesigned to lend them a contemporary edge. ul. Wilcza 44, s-h-studio.pl Silly Design Space Looking for framed illustrations of bears dancing with sailors? Maybe a mug with a cheery croc gnashing his teeth? Then Silly Design are here to help – find great little gifts from a brand with a wicked sense of humor. ul.

Piękna 47, sillydesign.pl

redpoppy.pl

Reset Point Relocated to new premises, this outstanding home design shop balances fun, retro kitsch with ultra cool works from both upcoming and established local creatives.

Endlessly fun and eccentric it’s a treasure trove of renovated antique furniture, assorted curios lifestyle essentials. ul.

J.Dąbrowskiego 16, resetpoint.pl

noon/noon Well-balanced as a coffee bar / showroom where you can interact and experience the functionality and quality of the furniture first hand. ul.

store’ full of bio-friendly scents, cosmetics, hand-made trinkets and housewares, rustic furnishings and detox teas. Check the prestigious porcelain by Kristoff, stock up on Madara cosmetics, or snap up a pair of handmade shoes.

Scandinavian Living Representing upcoming Swedish, Danish and Finnish designers as well as several truly iconic names, Scandinavian Living presents such finds as tablecloths from Lazy Linen, ceramics by Bloomingville, and fun tableware from Muminki. ul. Wiertnicza 155, scandinavianliving.pl

Secret Life (of Things) An ‘eco lifestyle concept

Velt Beautiful family-run glassware store whose pieces include the Leda lamp, awarded an honorable mention in the prestigious 2012 Red Dot Awards. ul. Próżna 12, velt.pl

Warsaw Gift Shop Run by photographers Maciej Margas and Aleksandra ‘Blogusz’ Logusz, this store specializes in large format pictures, albums, calendars, mugs and clothing adorned with the stunning aerial imagery of this award-winning pair. ul. Zwycięzców 42

malls & department stores Arkadia Not many Polish malls do it better. Stores inc. Mango,

Lacoste, Guess, Hilfiger and Peek & Cloppenburg. Al. Jana Pawła II 82, arkadia.com.pl

Atelier Mokotowska 63 Four levels of high end fashion, with Woolrich, Mason’s, Lardini, Boglioli, Borelli and Seventy all represented. ul.

Mokotowska 63, fb.com/ateliermokotowska63

Galeria Mokotów Stores inc. Calvin Klein, Hollister, Hugo Boss, New Balance, Royal Collection and Timberland. ul. Wołoska 12, galeriamokotow.com.pl

Klif House of Fashion Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has a line-up of top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko. ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl Plac Unii One of Warsaw’s latest mall counts Armani Jeans, Liu-Jo and Pandora amongst its upmarket tenants. ul. Puławska 2, placunii.pl

Mysia 3 Set in Poland’s former censorship office, the line-up includes Scandinavian fashion in Cos, shoes from My Paris, unconventional fashion from Nenukko and more. ul. Mysia 3, mysia3.pl

Vitkac Wolf Bracka Poland’s first luxury department store gathers the world’s top designers under one roof, with brands including Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton, Stella McCartney and Rick Owens. And that’s the tip of the iceberg. Vitkac, ul. Bracka 9, likusconceptstore.pl

Złote Tarasy Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Jatomi Health and Fitness Club. ul.

Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl warsawinsider.pl

107

General Listings 5-Star Hotels

6306, warsawmarriott.com

between-us.eu

Express Relocations

Bellotto

Regent Warsaw Hotel

Boutique B&B

ul. Szyszkowa 35/37, expressrelocations.com

ul. Senatorska 13/15, tel. 22 829 6444, hotelbellotto.pl

ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, regent-warsaw.com

ul. Smolna 14/6, tel. 22 829 4800, bedandbreakfast.pl

The Rialto Boutique Hotel

car rental

Bristol Hotel ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1000, hotelbristolwarsaw.pl

H15 Boutique ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 553 8700, info@h15ab.com, h15ab.com

ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8700, rialto.pl

Avis

ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6100, sheraton.pl

Fredrick Chopin Airport, tel. 22 650 4872, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 575 6583, Reservations: tel. 801 120 010, avis.pl

ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888, radissonblu.com

Hertz Rent a Car Hilton Warsaw ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555 / 800 44 11 482, hilton.com

Sofitel Warsaw Victoria Indigo ul. Smolna 40, tel. 22 418 89 00, indigowarsaw.com

ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8011, sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com

Westin InterContinental ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, warsaw.intercontinental.com

Mamaison Le Régina Hotel ul. Kościelna 12, tel. 22 531 6000, mamaison.com

Marriott Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630

Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, westin.pl

ul. Kineskopowa 1, euromove.pl

Interdean International ul. Geodetów 172, Piaseczno, tel.

22 701 7171, interdean.com

Sheraton

Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel

Euro Move International Movers

Okęcie Airport, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 2896; mob. 691 411 130. ul. Nowogrodzka 27, tel. 22 621 1360.

relocation companies

B&B

AGS Warsaw

Between Us Bed & Breakfast

CorstJens Worldwide Movers

ul. Bracka 20, tel. 22 8285417 (from 10 a.m. to 11p.m.),

ul. Nowa 23, Stara Iwiczna, corstjens.com

ul. Julianowska 37, Piaseczno, agsmovers.com

Move One Relocations Also immigration assistance, fine art shipping, pet transport and consulting services. Check their website for more details. ul. Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 8160, moveonerelo.com

Relo Planet International, domestic and office removals, corporate and individual relocations, fine art shipping, storage, insurance, as well as a full range of assistance services (immigration, etc.). ul. Batalinou Platerówek 3, reloplanet.com

w W a r s a www.city-tour.com.pl

Yellow Double-Decker Bus

Invites you to experience a panoramic tour of tourist attractions of the capital of Poland, Warsaw, in a relaxing and comfortable way.

Traveling over the course of approximately 1,5 hour, a double-decker bus will take you past many beautiful and interesting places of Warsaw, such as its interesting districts, palaces and churches, monuments and museums, parks and historical cemeteries, as well as the Jewish historical sites.

A GPS 12 language audio-guide, will give explanations and accompany you to make your ride a more adventurous, exciting and an unforgettable one.

Excellent Hop on Hop off and one trip service operates every day all year round.

5% DISCOUNT with this ad

108 Warsaw Insider | JULY 2018

Assisting over 75 000 families to relocate annually!

Worldwide network of 141 locations in 94 countries.

Contact us for a free quote today !

AGS WARSAW SP. Z O.O. T. +48 22 702 10 72 E. manager-warsaw@agsmovers.com

Line approved by municipal authorities.

www.city-tour.com.pl

THE AGS GROUP OFFERS GLOBAL SOLUTIONS IN REMOVALS, RELOCATION & RECORDS MANAGEMENT.

+48 500 033 414

www.ags-globalsolutions.com

Warsaw Guide

THE ESSENTIALS...

Cut through the chaff and time manage your visit as effectively as possible.

M U S E U M O F WA R S AW

Lastly, take a look at what’s on at Dom Spotkań z Historią, a small exhibition space that specializes in quirky photo exhibits that explore Warsaw’s past – though subject matter varies to cover differing chapters of the city’s history, the PRL era seems covered more than most.

MODERN WARSAW

THE OLD…

The Old Town, raised from the rubble after WWII, is symbolic of this ‘phoenix city’, and fully deserving of its UNESCO listed status. The Royal Castle is a maze of fancy chambers and important paintings by the likes of Rembrandt and Canaletto, while the Museum of Warsaw offers a peerless peek into the complexities of Warsaw. To soak in the extravagances of Poland’s imperial years, then Łazienki Park is essential, as is a visit to the Wilanów Palace: frequently termed as being ‘the Polish Versailles’, the gardens are as unmissable as the former royal chambers. Finally, tap into the very essence of the Polish soul by visiting the stunning new Vodka Museum on the right side of town.

WWII

Memories of WWII still hang heavy.

Learn about the 1944 Warsaw Uprising at The Rising Museum: it’s deservedly rated as among the most important cultural institutions in the country.

Lesser known, the Old Town’s ‘Heritage Centre’ documents the destruction of the city, while three separate museums, Pawiak, Szucha and Katyń, cover equally somber chapters in Poland’s dark history.

JEWISH WARSAW

Though largely flattened, the former Jewish Ghetto contains numerous memorials, among them the Umschlagplatz installation that commemorates the deportations to Treblinka. The one synagogue that survived (Twarda 6) is the center of local Jewish life, while the innovative Polin covers all aspects of this nation’s complex and often fraught Jewish history. Learn more in exchange for zilch by hooking up with: freewalkingtour.com

COMMUNISM

A full tour of Stalin’s Palace of Culture is a must: the basements (protected from rodents by a team of feline guardians) are wild and the viewing terrace unimpeachable. Check the more ambient side to Communism in the Neon Museum and then pencil in a visit The Museum of Life Under Communism: it’s tiny, but humorous, eccentric and highly informative.

While you’re there, squeeze into a knackered militia wagon and take one of their commie-themed tours.

Equally weird, check out a former nuclear bunker by visiting the once top secret Obiekt Alfa (obiektalfa.pl).

Wonder amid romping kids and whirring machines in the Copernicus Science Centre and after, visit the university library to explore the stunning rooftop garden – it’s like something from another cosmos. The Museum of Modern Art is a short walk away while across the water, the stateof-the-art National Stadium conducts regular tours and thrills both stadium nerds and football fans alike. Back to Warsaw’s left bank, and the fountain park between the river and the Old Town impresses with its dazzling weekend light shows.

ART

Serious art lovers flock to the National Museum for its determined presentation of art through the ages. The Zachęta, the Modern Art Museum and CSW are more alternative with captivating exhibitions that excite non-conformists. That said, some of the city’s best art is found on its walls: Praga and Muranów are particularly known for their large format wall murals.

PEOPLE

The watchful shadow of Chopin, the city’s favorite son, looms large across Warsaw: the museum dedicated to his memory amazes by the breadth of its scope, while the Chopin concerts held each Sunday in Łazienki are a local rite of passage. If you’ve got time (and even if you haven’t), a day trip to his birthplace in Żelazowa Wola is a rewarding experience. Now reopened following a thorough refit, the Marie Curie Museum in New Town does a splendid job of remembering the world’s most famous female science boffin. warsawinsider.pl

109

5

3 8 6 7 2

4

Stadion Narodowy

Kulskiego

Chodk iewicza

Żaryna

8

Biały K amień

7 6

1 5 4 3 2 1

Insider Finds

DEFLATED & DEFEATED

After all the hype and the hope, Poland’s national team crashed out of the World Cup in all too familiar, depressing circumstances…

SHUTTERSTOCK

Poland were sent packing early from the World Cup in Russia following a lackluster performance against Senegal and a 3-0 tanking at the hands of a rampant Columbia. Tipped as dark horses at the beginning of the tournament, their dismal displays earned them the dubious honor of being the first European team to exit the competition. Referring to the side’s gutless horror show against Colombia, Paddy Power, the bookmaking website, tweeted: “Poland’s performance tonight is much like Lech Premium. Both are utter piss.”

Particularly galling was the manner of their implosion. Having qualified for Russia in free-scoring style, manager Adam Nawałka opted for a more cautious and largely untested formation. The decision backfired, and the gaffer has since faced a wave of criticism for failing to field talents such as Kamil Glik and Arek Milik.

“That they have reached this point in their campaign,” wrote The Guardian, “without producing a formation or using personnel that gives their best player the chance to actually significantly help them is a mystery.” To compound the misery, FIFA’s disciplinary committee issued a statement that they would be fining Poland after some of their followers displayed an offensive, politically motivated banner.

Clasping at straws, the nation can at least take solace that, once again, it’s more curvaceous followers have earned the pervy admiration of the British tabloid press. “Are these Europe’s hottest fans,” panted the Daily Star, a sentiment that will surely go no way to easing the pain of yet another diabolical World Cup outing.

112 Warsaw Insider | JULY 2018