Warsaw Insider June 2018 #262

Warsaw The Capital’s Original City Magazine Since 1996

JUNE 2018

262 06/2018

INDEKS 334901 ISSN:1643-1723

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Warsaw’s Fountains World Cup 2018 Viking Village Tasting Francuska

ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER AQUAZZURA ALEXANDRE BIRMAN ALEXANDRE BIRMAN ANYA HINDMARCH BALMAIN AQUAZZURA BURBERRY BALMAIN BUSCEMI BUSCEMI CASADEI CASADEI CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN CHRISTIANELIE LOUBOUTIN SAAB SAAB FRANCESCO ELIE RUSSO FRANCESCO RUSSO GIANVITO ROSSI GIANVITO ROSSI HERVE LEGER HERVE LEGER ISABEL MARANT ISABELKENZO MARANT KENZO MAISON MICHEL KOTUR MARC JACOBS LORO PIANA MANOLO BLAHNIK MAISON MICHEL MR & MRS ITALY MANOLO BLAHNIK ONETEASPOON ONETEASPOON SELF – PORTRAIT SELF – PORTRAIT TOD’S TOD’S TORY BURCH BURCH VICTORIA TORY BECKHAM VICTORIA BECKHAM ZIMMERMANN YVES SALOMON

tel.: 228277099, www.Moliera2.com

editorial INFRONT

JUNE 2018 Editor-in-chief Alex Webber

6 News 8 Anniversary:

insider@warsawinsider.pl Art Director Kevin Demaria insider@warsawinsider.pl

45 years of the Fiat 126p 12 Sport: World Cup 12 Interview: Photographer Bartosz Maciejewski

Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com Contributors: Stuart Dowell Maria Mileńko Michał Miszkurka Ed Wight

FEATURES

Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com

16 City Secret:

Viking Fort 0 Fountains of 2 Warsaw

ey Account Manager K Agata Sicińska asicinska@valkea.com

EAT!

ey Account Manager K Joanna Chmielewska jchmielewska@valkea.com

31 Review:

Kukpit

3 2 Take a Street:

Francuska 34 Dessert Guide 36 Great Outdoors

DRINK!

71 Review:

Klub Spatif 72 Round-Up: World Cup 74 Review: Pardon To Tu

I

wouldn’t necessarily call it the best month, but June’s definitely the most exciting – the first month of a full-throttle Polish summer always is. It’s then, after all, the full extent of the city’s food and drink revolution really becomes apparent – with no more hiding behind the weather, the city’s energy levels soar to unseen heights, revealing new trends in the process while affirming older ones as well; the buzz becomes palpable. Unsurprisingly, therefore, this issue we’ve overloaded on restaurants and nightlife in a bid to keep you updated on what’s hot and what’s even hotter. Elsewhere, we’ve taken the opportunity to infiltrate a Viking fortress nestled in the suburbs, dip down into the city’s fountains, celebrate the Maluch’s 45th birthday, greet the return of Pardon To Tu and speak to a photographer that’s cracking the foreign market.

Oh, and there’s that World Cup thingy and all… Enjoy June!

ey Account Manager K Karolina Zielonka kzielonka@valkea.com Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com Subscription 12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland.

Orders can be placed through: insider@warsawinsider.pl Printed by Zakład Poligraficzny TECHGRAF Tel. (17) 225-28-69

DO!

Stacja Grawitacja 92 Events 96 Museums 109 Guide: Essentials 110 Map 96 Insider Finds

Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

on the cover A whistle stop tour of Warsaw’s fountains is what we have in store for you, so quite sensibly our cover reflects that…

(Illustration by Michał Miszkurka)

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VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies. All information ©2018 Warsaw Insider.

PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT

77 Review:

BURBERRY CANADA GOOSE CASADEI CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN MEN FAY GIANVITO ROSSI KENZO MONCLER MR & MRS ITALY ONETEASPOON RALPH LAUREN TOD’S TORY BURCH VALENTINO BURBERRY CHILDREN DSQUARED2 KIDS KENZO KIDS MONCLER KIDS

HISTORY MEETS THE FUTURE

After a thorough renovation in line with the spirit of the late 19th century, the tenements at Foksal 13 and 15 are again ready to welcome the doyens of high society‌

A D V E R TO R I A L

B

y blending the history of the city with both unique architecture and the special character of its residents, Foksal is one of the city’s standout streets: though numbering just a dozen or so addresses, only a few places in Poland have the same captivating charm as this historic side street. Put simply, everyone knows it. While nowadays it is a natural magnet for those looking to escape from busy Nowy Świat, the truth is that it has been holding this role ever since the 18th century. It was during that era that Warsaw residents would flock to the beautiful landscaped gardens of Vauxhall, so named after the celebrated pleasure garden in London. The name was soon polonized, first to Foxhal, and then later to Foksal. It was here that on May 10th, 1789, French hot-air balloon pioneer Jean-Pierre Blanchard took the first balloon flight in the history of Poland. So important was the event that King Stanisław August Poniatowski personally attended.

In the 19th century, this former garden avenue saw a number of aristocratic residences and a palace built for distinguished Polish families, and these were joined by two eclectic tenements designed by Arthur Otton Spitzbarth. Constructed between 1895 and 1898, these buildings at No. 13 and 15 would go on to house many prominent people, among them several figures that would influence Polish culture and statehood.

UNIQUE RESIDENTS

One of the first tenants of Foksal 13/15 were the Eigers, a rich family of Warsaw intellectuals and industrialists. It was there, inside of the apartment at Foksal 15, that their son Marek was born; he would earn his name as Stefan Napierski, a Polish interwar poet and journalist, and eventually the husband of Irena Tuwim. The tenements’ history was also shaped by Zygmunt Badowski, a painter whose subject matter often dwelled on the artistic life of the pre-war Warsaw. He lived and had his studio there. But the list continues, with other residents including Ignacy Radlicki, an independence advocate and member of Polish parliament, senator Juliusz Zdanowski and professor Emil Godlewski. A frequent guest to tenement No. 13 was Władysław Grabski, who served two as the Prime Minister of interwar Poland. In the 30s the building was bought by Jan Wedel, the famous Polish entrepreneur and philanthropist, who redeveloped it and equipped it with modern amenities, such as Warsaw’s first panoramic lift.

RICH STUCCO & MODERN DESIGN

The tenements at No. 13 and 15 did not suffer during the war, a point that ensures their place in historic folklore. Today, under the auspices of Ghelamco, they have undergone a meticulous restoration that has seen the original architectural details restored. Splendid staircases with impressive portals, white floors and hand-forged balustrades have all survived and been returned to their full former glory. An equal wealth of detail can be found inside the spacious apartments, and these are enriched with nearly one hundred types of stucco and patterned floors comprised of the finest wood. These have been arranged by the celebrated Eric Kuster, a renowned designer whose work portfolio includes prestigious projects for a number of famous stars. Inspired by the Neo-Baroque style of the tenements, he has designed spaces that harmoniously combine the spirit of the belle époque with the latest trends in interior design.

The historical architecture, top-class design and amenities will enable the future tenants of Foksal 13/15 to feel like 21st century aristocracy. This will be ensured by solutions such as a luxury SPA zone featuring a sauna and jacuzzi and fitness room, modern parking platforms, and a spacious terrace with a cocktail zone on the upper floors. Another remarkable addition will be elegant guest rooms, in which the tenants will be able to host their relatives or business partners. The fine character of the apartments will be complemented by concierge services provided by Quintessentially, which will meet the needs of even the most demanding tenants.

w w w . f o k s a l 13 15 . c o m

NEWS

Foodies and trendistas had a collective seizure in April after organizers of the celebrated Nocny Market landed the bombshell that they would not be returning for a third stint this summer. Occupying the disintegrating platform of an abandoned train station, the street food market made its debut in 2016, quickly rising to become one of Warsaw’s best-loved seasonal attractions.

However, with Warszawa Główna Osobowa due to be renovated in autumn, the station’s management opted against extending Nocny Market’s agreement so as to prepare for the upcoming facelift. This decision was met with outrage, prompting the intervention of city councilors who joined forces with Nocny Market’s organizers to negotiate a stay of execution. To the relief of the public, the end of May saw a compromise reached with the Nocny Market allowed to return for a final hurrah.

Nocny Market ul. Towarowa 3, Open: Thu 5 p.m. to midnight; Fri-Sat 5 p.m. to 1 a.m.; Sun 4 p.m. to 11 p.m.

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PHOTOGRAPH ED WIGHT

THE RESURRECTION!

by Wilamowski Chłodna 15 has become the talk of the town. Trained in the world’s top Michelin starred restaurants by some of the best chefs around, Chef Arkadiusz Wilamowski has worked for Alain Ducasse at the three star Dorchester in London, at Gérald Passedat’s three star restaurant in Marseille and Pierre Gagnaire’s two star Sketch London.

The French and international menu features sophisticated technique, wholesome Polish ingredients, and an exceptional wine list. Placing an emphasis on seasonal, top quality ingredients, Wilamowski’s menu changes frequently to include such ingredients as fresh lobster – one of the chef’s favorite culinary items.

A degustation menu is available for those who wish to sample the chef’s full creativity.

CHŁODNA 15 BY WILAMOWSKI • UL. CHŁODNA 15, WARSAW • RESERVATION@CHLODNA15.PL • TEL. 730 737 644

News On The Market

Work has begun on dismantling swathes of Bazar Różycki, a legendary marketplace once synonymous with black market dealings and shady gang wars. Originally founded in 1874 by pharmacist Julian Różycki, it’s since become entrenched in Praga folklore, playing a central part in the development of the local dialect, culture and general way of life. Now, however, it finds itself the center of a tug-of-war between Różycki’s ancestors, who own two thirds of the plot, and the city, who own the rest. The former have released ambitious plans to transform the area into a glitzy social and shopping hub with an underground gallery crowned by a glass-topped atrium. City Hall, on the other hand, are keen to retain as much of the market’s original spirit as possible. As things stand, the dispute looks likely to be resolved in court.

A competition to find a new design for the southern side of the Palace of Culture has been concluded, with the winning entry coming courtesy of the Gdynia-based architectural studio Pniewski Architecki.

Picked for its originality and functional style, work to implement the five million złoty project is expected to begin later this year. Seeking to modernize PKiN’s southern side, and turn it into a holistic space of red and green vegetation, the plan is seen as a temporary solution before the long-term redevelopment of the area is eventually rubber stamped.

And The Winner Is… Cult architectural website, Bryła, have

announced the result of their annual Building of the Year poll, with Poznań’s Bałtyk tower scooping the coveted top spot. The work of Dutch firm MVRDV, the 16-storey mixed-use skyscraper is comprised of several cascading terraces, with the structure’s sloping form designed so that it appears to change with every different angle. The capital fared less well in the voting, with its two nominees – the residential block at Sprzeczna 4 and the new boulevards on the left side of the Wisła – finishing in a distant sixth and seventh place respectively.

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PHOTOGRAPHS FROM TOP PRESS MATERIAL, WIKICOMMONS, PRESS MATERIAL (2)

CENTRAL PARK

Old Town

THE RIB HOUSE

Plac Dominikański 2 tel.: +48 12 422 56 87 dominikanski@restauracjarzeznia.pl

Jewish Quarter

Bożego Ciała 14 tel.: +48 12 430 62 96 bozegociala@restauracjarzeznia.pl

www.restauracjarzeznia.pl

Anniversary The Maluch was introduced to Poland as part of Edward Gierek’s plan to ‘motorize’ the nation. Prior to its roll-out, its estimated that there were just 17 cars per 1,000 people in the country.

Produced under license from Fiat, in all 3,318,674 were manufactured up until 2000.

Over 900,000 were exported abroad, and they remain tremendously popular in Cuba where over 10,000 are currently registered.

The Maluch enjoyed a brief burst of glory in early 90s Australia with a special convertible version introduced to the antipodean market.

June 6th marks the 45th anniversary of the Fiat 126p.

Nicknamed Maluch (‘the little one’), the diminutive rearengine car has since acquired cult status both at home and abroad… and even Hollywood.

Famous fans include Tom Hanks. The actor took ownership of one late last year after it was gifted to him by Polish fans, and in return made a hefty donation to a hospital in Bielsko-Biała (the spiritual home of the Maluch). Closer to home, iconic actress Małgorzata Potocka remembers a riotous drive through Łódź with eleven people riding in and on a Maluch while glugging Soviet champagne.

Though now a rare sight, the car remains embedded in Polish hearts. Much of the sentimentality stems from nostalgic memories of National Lampoon-style cross-country adventures. Under communism, practically every family had tales of epic journeys undertaken to the beaches of Bulgaria.

To celebrate the 45th birthday of the little ’un, the Polish Automobile Club will be holding a rally and car exhibition on June 3 at the Autodrome on ul. 127 Powstańców Śląskich. For details, see: fb.com/ fiat126pklubwarszawa

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PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF FIAT

Fierce Little Creatures

Sure they were zippy and nimble, but the Maluch was also prone to calamity. The ‘start’ system had a rep for being particularly faulty, with common on-spot fixes famously utilizing sticks, belts and even bras.

Sport

Backed by an estimated 20,000 traveling fans, Poland’s Eagles land in Russia as everyone’s favorite outsider for World Cup glory. No pressure then, lads…

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THE MEGASTAR You know this one already, don’t you? Forward Robert Lewandowski notched 16 goals during the qualifiers, bringing his all-time tally to 52 – a national record.

Regarded as one of the best in the business, he enters the tournament having hit the net a staggering 41 times last season for his club, Bayern Munich. If his red hot streak continues, anything could happen.

THE SQUAD Far more than a one-man team, bookmakers and pundits have singled Poland out as being the dark horse of the tournament.

Despite a leaky defense and patchy performances in the friendlies leading up to the World Cup, this appears to be a balanced and fluid side

with a healthy blend of youth and experience. Of the older heads, center back Kamil Glik provides stability to the back line, while veteran right back Łukasz Piszczek adds an extra dimension to Poland’s playing style with his galloping forays up the field.

RISING STARS Two players in particular merit attention. Karol Linetty’s performances for Sampdoria have earned him favorable comparisons to Andres Iniesta, while Piotr Zieliński has continued to turn heads with a string of scintillating outings, not least in March’s friendly against South Korea. Zieliński spared Polish blushes with a stunning injury time winner, and has since been linked with a possible summer move

to the EPL’s quintessential comedy club, Arsenal. Don’t do it, Piotr!

UP AHEAD Poland look favorites to advance from Group H having been drawn against Senegal (June 19), Colombia (June 24) and Japan (June 28). Nonetheless, all three opponents present potential banana skins should Poland leave their A-game in the dressing room. If they qualify from their group, it’s likely they’ll face England or Belgium in the knock-out stages, and then either zee Germans or Brazil in the quarters. With that in mind, most bookies are pricing Poland at a respectable 40-1 to bring the trophy home. At 34-1, golden geezer Lewandowski could be a canny bet for the Golden Boot.

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Interview

In A Bubble

A native of Warsaw, photographer Bartosz Maciejewski talks about his photo series In A Bubble, a much-lauded New Yorkbased reportage that explores topics of alienation…

WI: You studied law, so how was it you got into photography?

BM: I think people are always looking to find their true self. More often than not, they don’t. You need an almost child-like faith to really discover what your calling is, and only then will you find it. Age, life experience and assorted adversities don’t matter. Of course, talent, good fortune and hard work are important, but the most crucial thing is to keep being a kid and pursuing what you love.

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In what sense?

You have to believe you can move mountains, even when the odds are stacked against you. You’ve got to really seek out what you enjoy. In my case, that was photography.

What inspired In A Bubble?

I’ve been looking into urban photography for years, watching the big names, seeing the presentation of reality – and, quite often, poverty and harm. Still, there was something missing. While it’s generally

accepted that people attract the most attention, I see something a little different in cities.

Which is what?

Absence. Alienation. We spend most of our lives alone with ourselves, and it’s while we’re on our own that we first experience hope or defeat. I wanted to capture that, and trying to do so has been a genuine thrill..

What is it about this subject that makes it so powerful?

I’m not entirely sure – maybe you have to look at the human ego? We’re only in the world for a split moment, yet we think of ourselves as the most important person there is – we are the center of universe. By photographing people in their own little bubble I wanted to show the transient, fleeting nature of our existence – in the grand scheme of things, we’re only alive for a short moment, and yet that seems like an eternity.

In A Bubble is set in New York – which other cities have you treated in this way, and how do they differ?

For the time being the New York period of my life is closed – well, at least that chapter of my life is. I’ve betrayed New York for London where, for the last couple of years, I’ve been working as a commercial photographer. London’s like a lover – there’s no routine, you have to try something different all of the time! >>>

Below are a selection from Bartosz’s In a Bubble series.

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For more of his work, see: www.instagram.com/bartoszmaciejewskiphoto/

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TKTKTKT TKTKTKTK

Full Metal Jacket

Thriving in the woodlands of Żoliborz is a secret Viking world of brawn and battle…

BY ALEX WEBBER | PHOTOS BY ED WIGHT

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I

t’s not unusual to find a successful business person leaving the rat race to pursue their true calling. Some do so to sail the world, others to open a bar or a store selling masks: normal stuff that you’ve heard of before. Then, on the other hand, you have Stanisław Wdowczyk, a man who used an amicable split from his partners to build a Viking fort and an army of warriors. Strange? It gets stranger still…

“Vikings were brave and pragmatic people,” shrugs Stanisław as he attempts to explain, “and that’s something I respect.”

Having had his eyes opened to the world of historical reenactment, the former corporate man launched an oak replica of a Viking longboat back in the year 2000 – and from there it all snowballed. “I realized that I needed a base for the vessel,” says Stanisław, “so a couple of years later I built my first fort on the banks of Lake Zegrzyński.” Having sold the ship to the Viking Museum in Borg, Norway, in 2006, he chose to go a step further and relocate to Warsaw and expand on his dream. What happened next was Jomsborg.

Named after a semi-legendary medieval stronghold, what took root was the product of Stanisław’s mind-boggling vision. Set in the woods just beyond the Olympic Center in Żoliborz, Warsaw’s strangest little treasure opened in 2010 as a ‘living museum’ of Viking life. Ringed by a palisade of sharp-

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CITY SECRET VIKING FORT ened wooden stakes, we approach tentatively, banging on the gate till the entrance creaks open. From behind it, Stanisław emerges to extend his weathered hand out in hearty greeting. Having introduced himself by his Viking name, Einar (“the most famous archer in the north,” he announces with pride), we’re then taken on a tour of the kingdom that he built.

A longhouse, 150-meters in length, dominates, its dark recesses clad with weaponry and animal pelts. It’s in here that historical-themed feasts are held for company get-togethers and team bonding events. Back outside, we peer into a weaver’s cottage and a tavern called Valhalla that’s all goblets and mead. We are not alone. Joining Einar most weekends are a number of warriors and craftsmen who leave the real world behind to assume their alter egos. In the smithy, one such gent stands over a bubbling pot attempting to produce medieval beer. “It’s a little hard,” he admits, “because no recipe exists.” Asked what he does for a living, he breaks into a grin: “I’m a lawyer.”

As we talk, an object whistles past and thuds against a target. Axe-throwing practice has begun. The action doesn’t stop, and from ‘the Warband’s House’ (in which Einar lives for the best part of a year) file a group of warriors in chainmail and helmets. Within minutes, the dusty courtyard becomes the scene of an impromptu battle as lads with names like Scibor and Thorvald batter against each other with swords and shields. “There’s about fifty warriors in all,” says Einar, his amulet glinting in the sunlight, “nineteen of which are fully trained and the rest learning their art.” A show it might be but this becomes easy to forget. The blows are full-blooded and laced with purpose. “We fight full-contact,” says Einar, “and that’s part of the thrill. Of course it’s not to the death, but neither is this some computer game.” As if on cue, a warrior in retreat tumbles into a fire pit only narrowly averting a more grisly end.

Where once Jomsborg only opened to the public every few weeks, the Sunday trading ban has had a positive effect. “Families just used to head to shopping centers at the weekend,” says Einar, “now though, they’re looking for other things to do so we’re open more often.”

Arkadia be damned: a magnificent trip through the mists of time, you’ll miss Jomsborg at your peril.

Jomsborg Hird ul.Wybrzeże Gdyńskie, fb.com/jomsborgvikingshird

Note: June 2 & 3 are scheduled as a family open day with fire shows, falconry, medieval music and no shortage of combat. For other upcoming events, check their facebook for details.

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We fight full-contact,and that’s part of the thrill. Of course it’s not to the death, but neither is this some computer game

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M U LT I M E D I A F O U N TA I N PA R K

The Big Blue Yonder

Cool down this summer with a bullet stop tour of fountains great and small…

UNMISSABLE!

Now reactivated after the annual winter break, the Multimedia Fountain Park between the Old Town and river has thrilled millions since launching seven years ago. Equipped with 367 jets capable of firing 30,000 liters of water per minute, the carefully choreographed displays are paired with synchronized audio and visual displays to stunning effect. This year, organizers have opted to tell ‘the touching love story of Prince Bear,’ with over 35,000 people attending the official inauguration of ‘fountain season’ at the start of May. If you missed it, then you’ll be able to catch the extravaganza every Friday and Saturday at 9 p.m.

You couldn’t miss the Palace of Culture if you tried: a domineering, phallic reminder of Stalinism, it remains Poland’s tallest building to this current day. Its disproportionate dimensions are at their most acute at the base of the fountain in the largely under visited Park Świętokrzyski.

Rarely does an inner-city sanctuary feel so dehumanizing and over-bearing.

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PA R K Ś W I Ę T O K R Z YS K I

THE GOOD OLD DAYS

First inspired by the baroque gardens of Versailles, Ogród Saski was mapped out in 1713 to complement the nearby Saski Palace. In 1727 the decision was made to share its glory with the public, a move that made it one of the first publicly accessed parks in the world – and how the people marveled! But it wasn’t until 1816 that it assumed its current look courtesy of a redesign by a green fingered Englishman by the name of James Savage. A fountain added

by Henryk Marconi in 1855 became the show stealer, with four waterspurting dolphins adding to the pageant. Delving deeper into the park, find another water feature standing in front of a classicist water tower based on the Temple of Vesta in Tivoli.

Of all the legends associated with ul. Tamka’s Ostrogski Palace, locals are most likely to be familiar with that of the Golden Duck, a one-time princess turned into a beaked amphibian by an evil sorcerer. Residing in a mythical underground lake deep in the dark belly of the palace, she is said to guard vast treasures in the catacombs down below.

Nowadays, a seventy-five centimeter statue of a tiara-crowned duck is the hallmark of the fountain that commemorates this tale.

While it might lack the grandeur of the water features found in Łazienki to the side, Kanał Piaseczyński makes up for it in size. Standing underneath Ujazdowski Castle, the canal was Europe’s second largest water feature at the time of its completion.

Finished in 1726, it later doubled as an obstacle course for Tsarist cavalry units stationed in the city.

Yet despite the regal associations, the acutal fountain is a more recent post-war addition fitted some time in the 1950s. >>>

OGRÓD SASKI

GOLDEN DUCK

KANAŁ PIASECZYŃSKI

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CITY FOUNTAINS

IN WITH THE NEW

More modern fountains abound, and few are more dynamic than the one at the center of Sir Norman Foster’s Metropolitan building. Topping out at a height of 15 meters, it’s widely recognized as one of the first ‘intelligent’ fountains found in the country. Costing over half a million złoty, the Canadian-designed system responsively reacts to wind conditions to ensure no watery disasters. Possibly usurping this though in terms of popularity is the Warsaw Spire. Hemmed in by shrubs and curling pathways, an array of water jets combine to provide a display that’s especially hypnotic come the fall of the night.

M E T R O P O L I TA N B U I L D I N G

THE MERMAIDS

You can’t wander far without being stalked by the mermaid: the city’s defining mascot is everywhere you look – cabs, buses, flags and so forth. But most famous of all, are the statues dedicated to Warsaw’s ancient protector. Two of these are ringed by tinkling fountains. Cast in bronze, the one by Świętokrzyski Bridge is reputedly the last monument to be built before the Nazi invasion, and while the statue survived the woman it was modeled on – a 23-year old poetess named Krystyna Krahelska – was fatally injured on the first day of the 1944 Uprising. Next up, the Old Town Square, where an immaculate ring of water trickles to the base of the mermaid, thereby catching the reflection of the tenements around. The mermaid herself is a replica of the 1855 version that has since been retired to the Museum of Warsaw.

O L D T O W N S Q UA R E

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WA R S AW S P I R E

Ś W I Ę T O K R Z YS K I B R I D G E

PA L AC E O F C U LT U R E

CLASSIC WARSAW

The mint-colored fountain by Kino Muranów was designed by Leandro Marconi to feature three boys holding, respectively, an oar, a net and a trident. First erected in 1866 on Krakowskie Przedmieście, it made way for the Mickiewicz statue in 1897, only to pop-up again in the center of Pl. Bankowy in 1910. It survived the war, but didn’t fit into the redevelopment plans made for the square, and was thus shifted again to its current location. With Socialist Realist Muranów on one side, and Pl. Bankowy’s Blue Tower on the other, it’s one of the great examples of the capital’s disjointed nature.

And so, back to the Palace of Culture! Four cast iron fountains can be found on what was once the axis of Sienna and Chmielna; designed in a Renaissance style, and notable for their dolphin features, all were unveiled on July 22nd, 1955.

Based on a Socialist Realist blueprint, Warsaw’s first post-war housing project, Mariensztat, was opened to much fanfare in 1948. Though many of the pastelcolored buildings have faded and flaked, the area remains high on odd little quirks: a mosaic of a jolly cat; a statue of a hencarrying woman; and best-known of all, a central fountain fringed by three stone children. As the brilliant historian Jerzy S. Majewski eloquently notes: “although they’re half a century old, they remain small boys, even if their sandstone faces have become slightly deformed – one has lost his nose, and another an ear.”

KINO MURANÓW

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H Par ig tn hl e ig r ht s

With Everyone In Mind

Mech is the fulfillment of our dreams: a place of simple, refined food, and people who enjoy learning about new flavors in a warm atmosphere. Our menu promotes simplicity, seasonality and nature, and it’s on these cornerstones that we’ve built our philosophy. Join us for a drawn-out breakfast, business lunch, family celebration or a casual glass of wine with your friends!

Mech ul. Francuska 45, restauracjamech.pl

NEWSFLASH! Responding to public demand, Hala Koszyki have unveiled a new Street Food section in place of their former farmers’ market. Of the highlights, check out the vegan kebabs from Keboom, the ice cream at Melody, Korean offerings at Ramyun and New York-style hot dogs from Dogidog.

Your Ticket To Japan

Born from our passion for Japanese cuisine, at Na Sushi we serve both classics as well as highly original compositions that have been refined to perfection. Alongside these are our soups which are famous for their authenticity. Whether you love Japanese food, or are simply seeking brave new tastes, at Na Sushi we won’t disappoint.

Na Sushi ul. Koszykowa 54, fb.com/nasushikoszykowa

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Summer Style at Lui Store

Aimed at fashionistas who seek the London look or New York style, Lui Store allows women to seize the latest global trends whilst emphasizing and expressing their femininity and originality. Our concept store offers the latest collections, for example, 3.1 Philip Lim, Rixo London, Les Coyotes de Paris, Attico, Zanzan czy ANNA+NINA as well as a number of younger upcoming designers.

At Lui Store our spring and summer collections are embodied by Philip Lim ‘s unusual forms and cuts, and Rixo London’s beautiful prints. Combined with boho jewelry from ANNA + NINA or Zanzan sunglasses and you have the makings of a super stylish summer. See you at Lui Store!

Lui Store ul. Mokotowska 26, www.lui-store.com

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The Big Grill

Set just off the business end of Nowogrodzka, Beef N’ Pepper reveals itself in a buzzy urban flash of violet blue light, slick banquette seating and open kitchen action.

Straight away, you get the feeling of being in a place that’s alive and active, a feeling that’s affirmed by a busy backlit bar from behind which black-shirted staff fling sunny cocktails for the after-work crowd. Of course, it’s the food angle that takes precedence, and at Beef N’ Pepper that translates to an electrifying choice of surf’n’turf: a perfect coil of octopus; lamb saddle cooked to the right hint of pink; and duck breast, its skin wondrously crisp, served with a deep plum mousse and Hasselback potatoes. But let’s not kid about, here it’s the cow that’s the king, a point proved by a peerless selection of steaks that include a 28-day aged entrecote; thumping T-bones; and a 60-day aged Argentinean top loin. Topped off with desserts such as the decadently rich chocolate mousse with orange powder, it’s no wonder that Beef N’ Pepper has become a Warsaw mainstay.

Beef N’ Pepper ul. Nowogrodzka 47A, beefandpepper.pl

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Ceramic Stars

Only selling Polish products, at Porcelanowa we specialize in limited edition porcelain from renowned domestic design studios such as Ćmielów and Kristoff. In particular, pride of place is awarded to the AS Ćmielów collection, a continuation of a 1930s line by Józef Szewczyk as well as the New Look forms of the 50s and 60s as made by Lubomir Tomaszewski, crystal glass from prominent Polish artists and ceramics by Manufaktura in the town of Bolesławiec.

However, we’re also serious about promoting the rising stars of Polish design, which is why we’re thrilled to give a platform to such upcoming names as Ende Ceramics, Fenek, Hadaki, Kalva and August. Other big sellers include vases by Malwina Konopacka and Monika Patuszynska, and Janina Myronowa’s decorative plates.

Porcelanowa ul. Kredytowa 2, porcelanowa.com

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EAT!

PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

RIVER RETREAT

Back to the riverfront we go! With the Wisła heating up for summer, all eyes are on Barka Wynurzenie, one of the great, big hits of recent years. Accessed over a bouncy gangplank, find this classic barge venue – its deck strung with hammocks – anchored close to the Copernicus Science Center. As before, there’s two sides to the story: at the top end, a bar retailing craft beers from Poland’s radical breweries, and on the other, a busy food counter (the Kukpit) that’s all bang and clatter. Here, Eastern street tastes are the name of the game, with a blackboard menu featuring Asian meatballs with ginger, garlic and lashings of hoi-sin, and Indianstyle chicken marinated in coriander, mint, garlic and hot pepper. With water slapping against the side of this creaky vessel, and streams of sunlight sloping under the awnings, it’s the food you need alongside a beer. But there’s more to Wynurzenie than just seasonal chillout. Rock by each Tuesday and Friday at 10 to flaunt your tatts and take part in morning Capoeira classes: the crowd is fun, cool and straight from the city’s Glory Years of Hipster. Barka / Kukpit Wynurzenie Bulwar Grzymały-Siedleckiego, fb.com/wynurzenie

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Eat! Review

EFES

L A C AT R I N A

ROAMING FRANCUSKA

Not many streets share the same continental vibe as Kępa’s ul. Francuska, and that’s partly down to its rich spread of hangouts. This month we bring you the best of seasonal summery Saska…

BIAŁA ul. Francuska 2 Saska’s premier cocktail spot reaches its zenith each summer thanks to a leafy back garden that stands shaded by this modernist building: it’s worth visiting just to swan down the spiral stairs with a glass of something bubbly.

BUDKA Z LODAMI ul. Francuska 30 Street-side ice cream cabin whose natural ingredients

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FRANCUSKA 30 ul. Francuska 30 The terrace is the place to be, sat shaded from the sun by dozens of multi-colored brollies. The coffee, brewed using Chemex, Aeropress and Drip methods, is a big deal, and complimented by French crepes served from a combi van parked outside.

LA CATRINA ul. Francuska 31 Small enough to hear the

and complex flavors have earned them a devoted fan club. The highlight, though, is the frozen yogurt.

EFES ul. Francuska 1 Forget the restaurant bit, it’s the window hatch you’ll want. Here, muddy manual laborers and polo-shirted locals tolerate each other to stand in chaotic queues that often snake onto the street.

The reason? Warsaw’s finest kebab.

B U D K A Z LO DA M I

RENESANS

FRANCUSKA30

BIAŁĄ

LU K U L LU S

Mexican chef bantering with the owners, this cheerful spot is all cacti, sombreros and jaunty little finishes. A lettuce overdose detracts from the burritos, but the Al Pastor tacos are a force to be reckoned with.

LUKULLUS ul. Francuska / Walecznych Upmarket, flouncy desserts served in a narrow strip of a room. Now summer’s here, order the strawberry tart – go alone, for sharing is a crime.

MECH ul. Francuska 45 Guarding the route into Saska sits Mech, a laidback venue that’s emerged as a strong favorite for

after-work drinks: that’s not just down to a terrace staring down Francuska, but a thought-out drinks menu involving fancy cocktails and accessibly priced wines.

PROSTA HISTORIA ul. Francuska 24 This SK classic fills the catch-all role of café / restaurant / bar / meeting point. With the wine flowing on the outdoor terrace you feel anywhere but in Poland.

RENESANS ul. Francuska 33 Forget the pizza arm of their operations and instead get back to basics and order a paper plate of hand-cut chips splashed in homemade spicy mayo. Simple street food heaven.

SPOCO LOCO ul. Francuska 8 Looking to bump off an enemy? Order the No. 7 sauce at Spoco, a lethal affair that leaves victims crawling on all fours begging for a mercy shot.

There’s no hotter sauce in town! The simple street-style burritos ain’t too shabby either.

THINK LOVE JUICES ul. Francuska 14 Founded by supermodel Anna Jagodzińśka, Think Love Juices does the job of attracting the rich and pretty with a sexy style and an ontrend menu of raw salads, komosa bowls, vegan handrolls and super powered smoothies. warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings D o n u t w o r r y, b e h a p p y : a l l' s w e l l at El Krepel...

NAUGHTY BUT NICE

Warsaw’s always had a sweet tooth, but it’s in summer that this really starts to show. From luxury dessert dens to pokey ice cream parlors reliant on secret family recipes, the city’s choice of sinful, greedy pleasures grows bigger by the day…

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Desserts Guide

something sweet Crepe Café Is there such a thing as the perfect pancake? If not, then Crepe Café certainly comes close. Enjoy them in a contemporary interior that’s tiny in size: grab a seat up on the mezzanine level. (E3) ul.

Dobra 19 Deseo Burakowska Luxury desserts, pralines and tarts served inside an ivy-clad building in a leafy post-industrial complex off Burakowska.

The contemporary style is reflected by an interior that’s modern, pared down and richly bathed in shimmery sunlight.

Though it’s the gleaming confections that generally earn the plaudits, the sorbets are not to be overlooked: deep and delicious, the plum is a natural born winner. ul. Burakowska 5/7, deseopatisserie.com El Krepel The rather tantalizing donuts include dulce de leche with cinnamon sugar or rich, creamy donuts topped with marshmallows. The work of Łukasz Kawaller (he of Hell’s Kitchen fame) and blogger / photographer / model Justyna Pankowska, it’s a charming, bijou space of fun, frilly style – think pretty pink seats and a wall overlaid with hundreds of rosebuds. (D6) ul. Śniadeckich 12/16 La Vanille Remember when everyone in the world began wolfing down cupcakes? La Vanille was born of that time. Though the general appetite for these dinky treats has waned, the popularity of La Vanille hasn’t. (D5) ul.

Krucza 16/22, lavanille.pl Lokal Dela Krem That you can now buy vegan, mojito-flavored cupcakes in Warsaw is an indication of the city’s fanatical commitment to healthy living. A roaring success, the first vegan cake shop in the country has become a local staple. (D5) ul. Hoża 27A Lukullus Founded in 1946, Lukullus have evolved into a funky boutique cafe chain noted for quirky interiors and buzzy atmosphere.

Oh, and desserts. Renouncing short cuts

and low-cost ingredients, this family enterprise has earned a name for top quality desserts that see traditional favorites updated for the modern times.

Various locations, lukullus.pl

being sprinkled with the toppings of your choice: Gummi Bears included! The production process does take time which can lead to queues – most agree that the wait times are worth it. (C3) Hala Gwardii

MOD Warsaw has always loved donuts, but it took the arrival of MOD to elevate this humble doughy vice to new levels with a glam New York-inspired makeover. Look out for the mango topped donut. (D7) ul.

Oleandrów 8

Limoni Canteri 1952 Highly seasonal tastes are complimented by the appearance of oddities that, in the past, have included, carrot, beer and tomato. Further, they remain the only producer in Poland to sell special dog-friendly ice cream! Various locations, lodziarnielimoni.pl

Odette The original spot for ‘fine dining desserts’, Odette’s cool interior causes attention to naturally fall on the long, sleek counter that occupies one end. It’s here that sweet creations glint like boutique little jewels.

(D4) ul. Górskiego 6/07, odette.pl Warszawski Lukier The desserts are hardcore food porn, and include Lukier’s signature freak shakes: towering treats cascading with calories and color. Look to their sister op on Żurawia for more of the same: but with ice cream… (E5) ul. Hoża 5/7

ice Blanc Desir Although the choice is far from comprehensive, the quality is first rate: made using natural ingredients, everything they offers seems to hit the spot (if in doubt, look for hybrid choices such as their pineapple / kiwi / melon mix. This was the Insider’s undisputed champion of 2017!

(B1) ul. Stawki 2A Cafe Crystal Despite its somewhat generic look, Cafe Crystal transpires to be anything but.

Specializing in Korean desserts, the ace in the pack here is their choice of bingsu: a light but elaborate concoction of shaved ice and fruity toppings. (D5) ul.

Nowogrodzka 22 Chop Chop Blindingly brilliant Thai-style ice cream: pick up to three flavors, then watch them mashed and chopped together before

Lody Prawdziwe Hailed in the past by Gazeta Wyborcza as Warsaw’s top ice cream, Prawdziwe’s attitude to perfection cannot be faulted.

Natural, artisanal ice creams and sorbet are produced using only high-quality, proven ingredients. In terms of excellence, they’ve got it licked. Various locations, lodyprawdziwe.com Nitro Lody Frozen with liquid nitrogen, just watching the process is enough to make customers feel like they’re part of Dexter’s Laboratory. Smoother than midnight velvet, the result sees super creamy classic tastes jazzed up with sprinkles of Lion bar, Gummi Bears and other such weirdness. ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów) Roszki Cementing Andersa’s burgeoning reputation as a center of cool is Roszki, a budget looking room decorated in flamingo pink colors. It doesn’t look much, but it tastes spot on. Find a choice of knock-out homemade ice cream, with highlights including mascarpone with Jagermeister, a luxuriously creamy orange and a surprisingly fiery chocolate habanero. (B1) ul. Andersa 37 Sucre Using the purest most natural ingredients available, last year saw Sucre broaden their philosophy and become even more adventurous: the results have seen new flavors debut, among them lemon/ bergamot, vegan coconut not to mention alcoholic numbers such as mojito, absinth and Campari! Various locations, sucre.pl warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings

LIFE’S A PICNIC

Dust down the hamper, picnic season is back! Warsaw needs no prompting to head outdoors, and that’s never truer than when you add some food into the equation…

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Picnic Round-Up picnics

outdoor street tastes

Vege Bazar 3 June @ ISKRA, ul. Wawelska 5 Focused on promoting ‘a healthy diet, natural cosmetics and small-scale manufacturers’, the Vege Bazar offers the added bonus of picnicking by ISKRA’s small outdoor pool. If past events are anything to go by, anticipate an almost beach party-style atmosphere with plenty of people sipping cocktails while chilling on hammocks.

Nocny Market In terms of food and drink, Nocny Market have arguably supplied some of city’s biggest talking points of the last few years. A quite brilliant mash-up of ethnic food vans and stalls, it’s become part of the lifeblood of summer. More than just food, it’s the sheer festivity in the air that marks it as special. ul. Towarowa 3, fb.com/nocnymarket

Science Picnic 9 June @ National Stadium The biggie! Organized by the Copernicus Science Center, this event isn’t just a chance to chow down with the family, but to also get a bit of learning under your belt as well. This year’s theme is ‘movement’, with a host of interactive demonstrations lined up to teach people about ‘thoughts in motion’, ‘historical movements’, ‘machines in motion’, etc., etc… For details, see: pikniknaukowy.pl Cycle Picnic 9 June @ Multimedia Fountain Park Starting with a 10km ride / bike parade through Warsaw, the picnic part is scheduled to begin around the fountain park at 12.30 p.m. and is anticipated to attract not just your serious lycra-clad enthusiasts, but also hobbyists on wacky contraptions.

Piknik Warszawski While the whole initiative takes meticulous planning, it’s the fun-loving spontaneity that is the most apparent: this is a place of DJs and deckchairs, food stalls and hammocks. Though the vege picnic is probably the month’s highlight, it’s well worth visiting at other times as well. And bring a towel: there’s an outdoor pool to boot. ul. Wawelska 5 (ISKRA), fb.com/piknikwarszawski Slow Market The Slow Market blurs the line between a general eat-in, hip market and food fair.

Offering an array of global food stands to pick from, it’s become a city legend over the course of its four-year existence. Open from Friday afternoon till Sunday evening, it’s a local rite of passage that demands to be done. Pl. Zabaw im. Tadeusza Kahla, slowmarket.pl

International Festival of Warsaw 9 June @ Park Rydza-Śmigłego As the name suggests, you’re not going to find a more multi-cultural picnic if you tried. So say the organizers: “Do you want to practice Salsa, Mambo or Rumba moves with dancers from Cuba? Or eat delicious curry, learn Korean or sing in Spanish?” That mind, appears to be the tip of the iceberg. Also promised is an ‘active learning zone’, concerts, games and various sporting competitions.

Targ Śniadaniowy The name, ‘the Breakfast Market’, is a little deceiving for while they open at 10 a.m., it’s the afternoon that gets the peak traffic. Operating in a couple of locations across town, expect a medley of international food stands and miscellaneous distractions that run from culinary shows to yoga classes. In many way, this is the weekend event that originally inspired the people of Warsaw to ‘do things and eat together’. Various locations, targsniadaniowy.pl

Breakfast With The King 23 June @ Wilanów Palace “What did King Jan III Sobieski eat for breakfast,” ask the promoters. You’re likely to find out here. Running from 10 a.m. till noon, guests are urged to bring blankets and prepare for a royal buffet during which they will be able to compose their own breakfast.

Wisła Waterfront It’s stating the bleeding obvious, but take a walk down the left-bank riverside boulevard to find a gamut of options that range from food trucks to street stalls selling a variety of ethnic options. If previous years are anything to go by, pickings stand to be especially rich around by Most Poniatwoskiego.

SMOKEY BANDITS

If you’re thinking of holding a barbecue this Sunday, then that’s not as straightforward as you may otherwise think. Thwarting your plans for a red-hot weekend of smoke and fire are a flurry of rules and regulations that are rigorously enforced.

First-up, you’re leaving yourself open to penalties for disrupting the peace (zł. 500), drinking in public (zł. 100) or lighting-up in a forbidden area (zł. 500), with the latter including Łazienki Park, Ogród Saski, Park Sowińskiego and Park Ujazdowski.

Closer to home, you should be in the clear if you’re barbecuing in the garden, though bear in mind your neighbors have the legal right to sue if they feel you’re polluting the air. If you’re living in an apartment, then the legality of holding a barbie on your balcony depends on the rules issued by your building’s cooperative. In terms of public spaces, BBQs are permitted in Pole Mokotowskie (but not the consumption of alcohol), Kępa Potocka, the beach up in Żoliborz, Park Skaryszewski and Praski Park. Most popular of all though, that’s the sandy stretch either side of Poniwatowski Bridge – and as of this year, you can booze there as well.

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EAT! Listings By in large, you can expect to pay between zł. 20-35 for starters, and zł.

35-70 for mains. Expect those prices to double in the case of the city’s fine dining venues. Those wishing to cut costs should seek out the weekday business lunch deals now offered by most restaurants. When tipping, 10-20% is considered polite though be aware of automatic service charges in some venues.

Home delivery by daily.pl

american Brooklyn Restaurant & Bar Gone are the fancy pants culinary creations once found in the basement, ousted in favor of a menu of pimped-up soul and street food, salads and steaks.

This means fresh tacos not to mention the best-selling ‘Mito’s Beef Ribs’. The ground floor burger bar is more prosaic, offering a standard line-up of burgers and wings.

(C4) Al. Jana Pawła II 18 (Rondo ONZ), tel. 22 114 3434, brooklynbw.eu

american 38 bakeries 38 balkan 38 british 40 burgers & street food 40 chinese 40 fine dining 40 french 43 georgian 43 greek & turkish 44 hungarian 44 indian 44 indonesian 45 international 45 italian 50 japanese & sushi 52 jewish 55 korean 56 latin & spanish 56 mexican 57 middle eastern 60 polish 61 scandinavian 65 seafood 65 specialty food shops 65 steak houses 67 street food 68 thai 68 ukrainian 69 vegan 69 vietnamese 70

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Champions Sports Bar While the concept and style look dated, there’s no faulting the attention to detail – with TVs positioned all over the place you won’t miss a kick. The heavy décor brings to mind the trans-Atlantic sports bars of the 90s, with glinting trophies, whirring machines, clacking pool tables and a cacophony of commentaries. Hell, there’s even a boxing ring. But you can’t criticize their consistency: the food is always onpoint, the staff are pro, while the generous floor plan makes it suitable for unwieldy groups of large and loud lads. (D5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 630 5119, champions.pl Hard Rock Café Instantly recognizable by the giant neon guitar outside, Hard Rock has a pierced staff of skater boys and rock girls and a menu that is, if nothing else, completely reliable. Peruse rock’n’roll swag that includes Joplin’s blouse, Prince’s guitar and Shakira’s pants. (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, hardrockcafe.pl Koko & Roy Spotlighting ‘New American Cuisine’, the thrust here is on comfort food, albeit several steps beyond what you’d rustle up at home: the Odds & Ends (deep fried pigs tails and chicken hearts tumbled into a big bowl and served with pickled red onions and a lash of sriracha aioli) are bold, unexpected and utterly delicious.

The work of an American / Polish husband and wife, Koko & Roy feels fun, innovative and pleasingly casual – a bit like visiting friends who really know how to cook. Much like visiting friends, alcohol too also plays its part: in this case, generous cocktails made to NYC specifications.

Take it all in inside a brill interior that’s

all Sputnik lights, intriguing artwork and mustard-toned finishes. (D5) ul. Wilcza 43

bakeries Aromat That many consider this their favorite bakery says it all. French flour and an expert baker ensure brilliant results, while the lemon éclairs deserve their own Facebook page. (C4) ul. Sienna 39, fb.com/ piekarnia.aromat Café Vincent Queues build quickly as locals line up to buy baguettes, cinnamon rolls, lemon croissants and beautiful pains au chocolat. But people don’t just head in then out, a small wine list and brilliant people spying opportunities cause many to hang around. (D3) ul. Nowy Świat 64 Charlotte While the fancy crowd isn’t to everyone’s liking, the atmosphere feels truly continental: even more so in warm weather when the terrace packs out. (D6) Al. Wyzwolenia 18 (enter from pl. Zbawiciela) Paul Specializing in pastries, baguettes and other baked goods, this French chain have rapidly entrenched themselves in the capital following their debut last year.

Various locations, boulangeries-paul.com Rozbrat 20 Bakery & Wine Corner Best known for fathering Butchery & Wine, Daniel Pawełek makes his mark on Powiśle with the launch of Rozbrat 20, a high-end bakery that’s worthy of the rave reviews. Breakfast here is among the best you’ll find in Warsaw. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 20, rozbrat20.com.pl

balkan Ba Adriatico As a starter, then the grilled peppers stuffed with creamy, regional cheese are irresistible. But then so too the octopus salad. Mains are a victory of simplicity, with dishes like skewered minced beef served with a bitey sauce and a soft, pillowy Lepinja bread. Yet ignore Thursday

“Sample the exemplary tastes of China in the very heart of Warsaw”

- YAJIA LIN

We invite you to enjoy a splendid culinary journey through China!

Our professional team will create the perfect event for you – we were born to organize!

- communion meals - wedding parties - company meetings - conferences & workshops - events

Ul. Pańska 85 For Reservations tel. 512 671 756 22 253 30 30 panska85.com

EAT! Listings seafood night at your peril. Croatian-run, this neighborhood spot has an unassuming air that belies the general quality. (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 50/52, ba-adriatico.pl

british Ę Rybę A couple of places have tried to emulate the taste of the British seaside, but this is the de facto codfather. Here’s a spot where the chips are golden, the fish fresh and the batter crisp and light. Now also serving British breakfast, albeit at a time when most normal people will have already eaten. (E4) Al. Jana Pawła II 18, erybe.pl

burgers Barn Burger Considered one of the founding fathers of Warsaw’s burger culture, Barn Burger have withstood the test of time and emerged as the yardstick all others are judged against. Prepped using freshly ground Charolais beef, choices include the jalapeno-laid Muppet and the outrageous Bypass (400g of beef with quadruple cheese and bacon). If you want to go down in legend, enter one of their American-style speed eating comps. (D4) ul. Złota 9. tel. 512 157 567, barnburger.pl Beef’N’Roll If the wheels have fallen off the burger craze then no-one told Beef’N’Roll.

Originating as a food truck, their success has been such that a fixed venue was required. Everything about the food and drink suggests quality is the main consideration. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel.

531 707 070, beefnroll.pl Burger Bar Warsaw has come full-circle: years after burgers briefly starred as the national food, it’s the original burger joint that still bosses the field. ul. Puławska 974/80 (enter from Olkuska) & ul. Krucza 41/43, burgerbar.waw.pl Kura Buffalo Wings Looking to revise and rehabilitate the

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reputation of fried chicken, this cult spot has cool staff, a busy buzz and a tasty selection of strips, wings and homemade sauces: look on it as KFC for the millenial generation. (B2) ul. Nowolipki 15, fb.com/ restauracjakura Okienko When the chips are down and you’re looking for emergency nourishment, then join the queue outside Okienko: serving Belgian-style frites in paper cones, this street-side hatch is a true window of life. The roster of sauces, written up in marker pen on the wall tiles, are often superb. (D7) ul. Polna 22 Pogromcy Meatów Yearn no more for the elusive flavor of the backyard BBQ. Specializing in grilled meat, find exactly just that loaded into artisan buns alongside locally grown greens. The sense of homespun quality makes this the kind of comfort food that Warsaw has been missing for years. (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, tel. 505 703 508 Warburger While Warsaw has lost its appetite for burgers, you wouldn’t necessarily tell by popping in WarBurger. Set inside a diminutive cabin, join the scrum for jazzed-up burgers that use slow-food ingredients. If not the best, they’re most certainly up there. (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1, warburger.pl

chinese Pańska 85 Ample in size, the interiors speak of money well spent. This is especially true because despite the luxury trimmings Pańska looks good without ever losing its dignity. With their kitchen staff headhunted from across China, the food sets a standard that has yet to be seen in any Chinese restaurant in Warsaw: there’s delicate salmon rolls wrapped in mango; dim sum that are pouches of pure goodness; and Sichuanstyle pork that’s a blaze of sizzle and spice. The Beijing Duck, carved and served table-side, is the highlight. (B4) ul.

Pańska 85, panska85.com

Regina Bar Stepping past a pair of flowing red drapes at the entrance, guests are ushered in to discover an eclectic world that marries the tastes of New York’s Little Italy to Chinatown next door. This is done excellently with the menu presenting the very essence of ethnic comfort food: General Tso’s chicken, Cantonese roast duck and light, leopard-spotted pizzas.

Brought to you by the makers of MOD, it’s therefore natural that the original style extends to kooky interiors tinged with a trace of retro: a tall mirrored wall and the kind of sparkling chandelier last seen in Boogie Nights. (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, fb.com/Reginabar

fine dining Amber Room at the Sobański Palace Set in the pre-war Pałac Sobańskich, this wedding white manor house is the epitome of luxury: plush, discreet, elegant and serene, it unwraps like the most beautiful of presents – a network of corridors and stairwells take guests through a series of rooms and side-chambers.

Impossibly almost, the food measures up to the surrounds.For mains, the sea trout is spectacular, arriving alongside creamy root parsley and fried cubed cucumbers.

(E6) Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, amberroom.pl Atelier Amaro If Wojciech Amaro’s eponymous restaurant isn’t the most famous in the country, then it’s certainly the most important.

Awarded Poland’s first Michelin star in 2013, it’s a venue that continues to set the pace in terms of innovation. Changing weekly, his ‘calendar of nature’ seeks to present forgotten ingredients such as little-known berries, herbs and flowers against meats and other ingredients reared or grown at the Atelier farm. One for any bucket list (gastronomic or not), there are occasions when dining here can feel like an out-of-body experience.

(E6) ul. Agrykola 1, tel. 22 628 5747, atelieramaro.pl Belvedere Łazienki Królewskie Set in an imperial age glass orangery, it’s festooned with intricate latticework and botanical exotica. The updated

3.1 Philip Lim — Attico — Rodarte — Paul Andrew — Justine Clenquet — Nina Kastens ­Jonathan Simkhai — D’ESTREE — ­ RIXO London

a unique shopping experience

www.lui-store.com Mokotowska 26 Warsaw

EAT! Listings interiors are the work of acclaimed set designer Boris Kudlicka, and lend a fresh, contemporary tone that goes hand in hand with the menu. But behind the gels and emulsions and pretty little swirls, this is cooking of substantial depth; it’s cooking that takes you to the very soul of Polish nature. ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. 22 558 6701, belvedere.com.pl Chłodna 15 by Wilamowski Gone are the Alice in Wonderland decorations of the previous tenant, La Maison, replaced instead by a muted charcoal look that’s reassuringly refined – for the time you’re here, you forget you’re on the ground floor of a 70s tower block.

Aiding the amnesia is the classic French cooking of Arkadiusz Wilamowski: small and mercurial in its content, the dailychanging menu is a work of preposterous detail – no sauce takes less than a day to make. So the rumors go, Michelin are watching closely. (B3) ul. Chłodna 15 Do Bo Do Invoking the spirit of Eugeniusz Bodo – an interwar screen legend who once owned an arty café at this very address – Warsaw’s latest fine dining spot throws the spotlight on the copious talents of Marek Kropielnicki. His menu is a marriage of local produce, outrageous ideas and precise technique, though so far appears to have divided the city’s food critics: full report soon.

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N31 Been there, done it all. That’s Robert Sowa, a national treasure widely hailed for modernizing Poland’s gastronomic sector back in the country’s culinary dark days. A common sight on TV, the chef’s public profile has meant there’s no shortage of bums on seats in his flagship restaurant, but this is more than a chef trading on his past. A chic city center bubble beloved by business types, the food is first class with Sowa’s international travels reflected by surprises such as flawless tuna partnered with kabayaki sauce, yuzu, wasabi dressing and turnip salad. The flavor combinations are exceptional. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 31, n31restaurant.pl

Nolita BEST WAWA 2017 “Fine Dining” For many diners, there is no bigger night out than one that begins and ends in this enclave of class.

Dashing in its monochrome colors and muted gunmetal shades, Nolita is where Warsaw heads to live the life of the 1%.

Lacking the magic tricks of some, the ‘show factor’ might be subdued but the tastes definitely aren’t. Who to credit? Two words: Jacek Grochowina. Cooking with poise and focus, his menu is a marriage of the classic and creative, with core

ingredients given unexpected lifts with cunning turns and inspired little twists: maybe some yuzu with the tartare or konbu with the eel. (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel.

22 292 0424, nolita.pl Platter by Karol Okrasa It’s a fact that Okrasa’s appearances in the kitchen are fleeting and rare, but that’s done nothing to hurt this restaurant’s prestige. Head chef Łukasz Pielak has proved to be a lethal assassin, executing the ideas of his mentor with accuracy and passion. The cooking is detailed, balanced and elegant, with the highlight of our visit being deer in plum sauce. A thing of imperial, velvety richness it’s a dish that turns up the volume on a memorable experience. (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (Hotel InterContinental Warsaw), warsaw.intercontinental.com Salto Any Best of Warsaw list wouldn’t be complete without mentioning Salto. The baby of Martin Gimenez Castro, the chef’s South American influences shine on an a la carte menu that includes corvina ceviche with orange and spices and dry aged steaks worth crossing town for. Mind you, the real riches are on the tasting menu, a six-dish volley of riveting tastes.

The inventiveness peaks with elaborate desserts such as cream of roses, marinated lychee ice cream, coconut and beetroot paper. (D5) ul. Wilcza 73

EAT! Listings (enter from Emilii Plater), tel. 22 584 8771, saltorestauracja.pl Senses Diners are best advised to leave logic outside. Inspired by the idea of ‘note-bynote’ cooking, Italian-born chef Andrea Camastra isolates and extracts molecules from ingredients to obtain the purest flavors before matching them up with unlikely partners. What unfolds is a dazzling show of near illusory brilliance; the technical proficiency of the kitchen is exceptional and makes the WTF prices easier to swallow. Wrap-up the evening with a pungent, edible cigar. (C2) ul.

Bielańska 12, tel. 22 331 9697, sensesrestaurant.pl Signature You feel a millionaire just being here: we’ve heard the interiors described as a ‘Monegasque state of mind’, and that’s not a bad way to surmise a décor that’s all about friezes and reliefs dated from the time this was the Soviet Embassy, lavish 1950s Oswald chairs, lighting by Serge Mouille and original Marilyn photos shot by the acclaimed Milton Greene.

Food-wise the restaurant makes a massive splash with a menu that’s clever, creative and pretty. Count on Signature’s seasonally changing desserts providing a happy ending. (D5) ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 55 38755, signaturerestaurant.pl

french Bistro la Cocotte With access through a shadowy courtyard, the sensation you’re stepping inside a little secret is a pleasure in itself.

Presenting itself in a riot of red and white gingham Cocotte feels warm and intimate, a factor aided by a small open kitchen and the atmosphere of home. The menu, chalked up on the blackboard, is a flexible affair that makes use of the ingredients at hand, and is divided into a smattering of light bites, desserts and plat du jour. (D6) ul. Mokotowska 12, tel. 664 906 000 Brasserie Smak A moody, open-plan space overlooking the busy market action of Hala Gwardii, Brasserie is place in which to soak in the atmosphere of this echoey hall. It’s

given added impetus by artfully arranged seafood platters, meaty snails and stews that are heavy, robust and thick with goodness. Pl. Zelaznej Bramy 1 (Hala Gwardii) L’Arc Looking elegant with its black/white floors and subtle decorations bills at L’Arc can become big number affairs – especially if you hanker for seafood. Pick from numerous types of oysters, or delve into the fish tank for the lobster of your choosing. The catchment area extends beyond the borders of Mokotów, not just because of their ‘fresh from France’ seafood, but because of classic dishes such as Mulard duck and Burgundy snails.

(E8) ul. Puławska 16, larc.pl

georgian Chinkali Signposted by a Georgian-language shingle, there’s a real sense of pleasure about this place. More modern than your typical folksy ethnic outpost, Chinkali’s draw is indeed its chinkali: dough purses packed with meaty broth. There’s a genuine homemade quality to these slurpy bundles of joy, meaning that while they’re authentic, consistency can vary. And don’t miss out on the red bean chachapuri washed down with a mouthwash-colored tarragon lemonade. (D4) ul. Zgoda 3

Klukovka Jana Pawła’s pavilions are the unlikely location of this culinary beacon: amid the aggressive waft of its kebab shop neighbors, Klukova presents itself as a warming mouse hole filled with banter, babble and rich aromas. Specializing in the foods of ‘the east’, this means a menu inspired by the tastes of Georgia, Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan, and more. The mutton manty dumplings are great, and best appreciated with a bottle of unfiltered Lithuanian beer. (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 45A, klukovka.pl Rioni Warsaw’s foodies like talking of ‘cursed locations’, and they don’t get more hexed than Mokotowska 17. But despite its history of failed ventures, Rioni feel better placed than most to break the jinx. Set in a curving brick room lit by dangling overhead bulbs, join a young-ish crowd for juicy Georgian dumplings oozing with meat and herbs, hearty soups and big, doughy wheels of cheese-filled chaczapuri. (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17 (enter from Pl. Zbawiciela), rioni.pl Rusiko Explaining Georgian cuisine isn’t all that hard. To the uninitiated, it’s representative of the heart, spirit and passion of its people, a cuisine the values the concept of the feast: wine, laughter and song find themselves elevated to roles of primary

Unique selection of Georgian wines and spirits

tue.-wed. from 1500 to 2300 thu.-fri. from 1500 to 2400 sat. from 1200 to 2400 sun. from 1200 to 2300 address: al. Ujazdowskie 22 00-478 Warszawa email: winebar@rusiko.pl + 48 22 628 45 76

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EAT! Listings importance. A food of life, spice and whole-hearted tastes, consider Rusiko as the best ambassador there is for this surprisingly diverse kitchen. Occasional live performances lend an animated twist.

Note: closed Monday. (E5) Al. Ujazdowskie 22, tel. 22 629 0628, rusiko.pl

there’s a bonhomie present that instantly engages. The kitchen attaches no value to things like presentation, preferring instead to simply treat diners to piles of grilled and skewered food that consistently tastes right. ul. Egipska 7, tel.

22 672 0525, kregliccy.pl/santorini/

greek & turkish

Sofra A highly respected Turkish eatery with a wondrous beef mussaka and a wholly admirable lineup of other ethnic dishes: the lamb shashlik has never failed us.

Pleasingly informal, this neighborhood redoubt feels cheerfully unforced, and it becomes an easy place to hang around in.

(C6) ul. Wilcza 71, tel. 731 847 731

Anatolia Looking dark and moody, Anatolia adds a veneer of sophistication to the traditional Turkish dining experience; presentation, you can tell, is important, but so too is the general sense of replicating the standards of home. Meat finds itself treated with reverence, and that holds especially true when it comes to steak and lamb. Full review coming soon. Pl. Konstytucji 2, anatolia-waw.pl

Maho Maho feels like it’s located at the end of the earth – but its distance deters no-one, least of all its army of hardcore followers. Why are they there? The answer is a Turkish grill that takes you right to the heart of this glorious cuisine.

Highly recommended is the Iskender kebab: layers of juicy doner meat served with scoops of fresh tomato sauce and fresh, thin pide bread straight from the wood-fired oven. While you’re there, you may as well stock up on imported goodies from their adjoining store. Al. Krakowska 240/242, maho.com.pl Paros Out of all of Warsaw’s Greek contributions Paros dazzles most with a glitzy look that’s a complete U-turn from the typical taverna look. Owned by the same team behind El Greco, the menu is identical, though a recent visit revealed a kitchen resting on its laurels – not one plate on our table was finished. (D4) ul. Jasna 14/16, tel. 22 828 1067, paros-restauracja.pl Santorini Santorini looks scuffed and tired but

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Taverna Patris This Greek restaurant is not about sophistication and finesse, it’s about truth and taste. Likewise, the interiors have no airs and graces: there’s a rough and ready style that’s apt for noisy celebrations and familial occasions. Tawerna Patris is not about shallow details or surface appearances. Instead, it’s a place of depth, a place of integrity, a place of joy.

(G4) ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 407, tel 22 357 11 11, tawernapatris.pl

hungarian U Madziara U Madziara looks like it took two days to decorate. No-one goes here to marvel at the interiors though, they go in the knowledge that they’ll find great food at prices all bank cards can support. Chef Gabor’s signature goulash is one of life’s simple pleasures, though the service can come across as distracted and inattentive. (B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 620 1423, umadziara.pl

indian Bollywood Lounge Known for their raucous dusk-till-dawn parties, there is another less hedonistic roll filled by Bollywood: that of a restaurant. The menu is an uncomplicated, classic affair that’s an ideal primer for the party ahead. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, tel. 22 827 0283, bollywoodlounge.pl

Bombaj Masala Not just the best looking of Warsaw’s Indian restaurants, Bombaj Masala also has the best cooking. With so many restaurants reliant on one ‘master pot’ for their curry, this classy venue feels unique in delivering a plethora of rich, intense tastes. The vindaloo is a special standout, with big, punchy flavors that leave you tingling pleasantly long after you leave.

(B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 606 688 777, bombajmasala.pl

Curry House Ask for something extra hot in Curry House and by Vishnu that’s what you’ll get. Yet at Curry House there is more to sing about than just Poland’s highest voltage vindaloo. The curries are rich and sumptuous and consistently cited as among the best in the city. If in doubt, the chicken tikka masala is a fail-safe request. ul. Żeromskiego 81 & ul. Hoża 54 & ul. Towarowa 35, curry-house.pl Curry Leaf The post-industrial style is diluted by the number of Indian trinkets hanging off the vents and pipes. Owned by the same crew behind the lauded Curry House, you’d be completely correct to assume consistency and excellence. ul. Conrada 5, curryleaf.pl House of Curry Heat seekers can ‘enjoy’ a genuine deathby-fire experience at House of Curry, though far milder curries are available for more sensitive palettes – either way, the experience is fantastic, and good news for those stuck out in the depths of Józefów. ul. Patriotów 11 A, house-of-curry.pl India Express Wola Some notable exceptions / calamities aside, the standard of Indian food in Warsaw is surprisingly high – the problem lies in its ‘sameness’: same recipes, same menus and not enough being done to distinguish one restaurant from the next.

So it’s on this point that the latest branch of India Express really excel – open from 8 on weekdays, the draw here is a breakfast menu that gives a new spin to Indian food.

(B4) ul. Sienna 87, indiaexpress.pl

EAT! Listings Karma Having switched postcodes at the start of 2018, Karma’s new Mokotów address has a fresh, contemporary edge with an interior that’s chic, classy and leagues ahead of many of Warsaw’s other Indian restaurants. The food is impressive alright, with a boisterously punchy madras among the highlights.

South Indian specialties are the forte though, with Karma’s menu presenting a wide range of dosas, uttapams, idlis and parrottas. Al. Niepodległości 18, restauracjakarma.pl Mandala Mandala is characterized by its blitzing big spices and a vindaloo capable of giving the sweat glands a work out.

For something calmer, the creamy mutton methi malai is a masterpiece. ul. Emilii Plater 9/11 / ul. Etiudy Rewolucyjnej 9 / ul. Sienna 87, mandalaklub.com or indiaexpress.pl

Mr. India Split on two levels the design is contemporary if a little characterless: leather banquettes that leave a sweaty bum print and wood paneling.

No problem though, if it looks bland then the food isn’t. That means an incredible butter chicken that’s deep and immensely satisfying. Then there’s the vindaloo, an experience that leaves some close to spontaneous combustion.

Undoubtedly one of the best regarded Indian restaurants in this town. Al. KEN 47, tel. 22 213 0689, mrindia.pl Namaste India Responsible for first bringing quality, budget Indian food to Warsaw, Namaste have grown from humble beginnings (three tables and cooking done in a cupboard-sized space behind a curtain) to evolve into a bona fide two-floored restaurant. But expansion has come at the cost of quality – our last trip (March 2017) promises to be the last for some time. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 15, tel. 22 357 0939, namasteindia.pl Tandoor After nearly 20 years at the helm, owner Charanjit Walia has sold up and moved on, leaving a spiritual hole in his life-defining work. His parting shot has been a re-haul which has seen the

interior modernized and brightened. Has the food suffered? Not a jot. The chicken tikka butter masala is as formidable as ever. It’s no longer the self-styled, ‘the best Indian restaurant in Poland’, but it’s deservedly retained a loyal core of customers. (D7) ul. Marszałkowska 21/25, tel. 22825 2375, tandoor.com.pl

indonesian Warung Jakarta The menu has a street foodie edge and is divided into steps wherein diners first pick out their choice of protein, then their rice, before concluding with any vegetables add-ons (e.g. pak choy, green beans or water spinach). While most Warsaw restaurants have a special lunch scheme going on, Warung’s is one that actually warrants a further look: find truly great off-menu dishes that are highly accessible to all levels of income.

(D6) ul. Piękna 28/34

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international Aioli This runaway hit has taken Warsaw by storm. It’s a jaunty space with hams hanging from hooks and long communal tables that thrive with life. Aioli’s breakfasts, sandwiches, pastas and pizzas are a lesson in clean, simple pleasure: nothing out of the world, just consistently good. This and the liberal prices mean there’s no shortage of people passing in and out the doors. (D3) ul. Świętokrzyska 18, tel. 22 290 102, aioli-cantine.com Ale Wino Dip through an archway to discover Ale Wino, a beautiful wine bar whose menu has been well tailored to the season. Tweaked for the season is the pork belly, a Złotnicka pig adorned with apple sugar snap peas and celery mousse – gorgeous. As for the wine, put your faith in the sommelier, Oliver.

(F5) ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 628 3830, alewino.pl Bazar Kocha Designed to evoke the spirit of a farmers’ market, the woodsy interior is filled with

ŻEROMSKIEGO 81 508 870 774

WWW.HOUSE-OF-CURRY.PL

PATRIOTÓW 11A, FALENICA 512 533 415 warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings stall-style units neatly stacked with jars and pots. Yet these are not decorative decoys, but part of a thoughtful grocery offer aimed at showcasing Kocha’s own-made produce. Above all though, this is a restaurant whose menu is strongly influenced by concepts of ‘terroir’. The giant leg of lamb falls off the bone and is a dish to recommend and remember for several months to come. (D6) ul.

Mokotowska 33, bazarkocha.pl Bez Tytułu A beautifully decorated restaurant on

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trendy Poznanska. The menu has French and Polish accents and reflects the chef’s creative streak well. (D5) ul. Poznańska 16, beztytulu.com Bibenda The menu declares Bibenda to be ‘a celebration of food, drink and togetherness’, and that’s precisely what it is.

Augmenting the warm, busy interiors are a thoughtful selection of craft beers and a concise menu that varies from month-tomonth. The apparent simplicity of the food is illusory and belies the kitchen’s knack for spotting interesting combinations such as goose with pumpkin puree, cranberry / red wine jam and chili caramelized beetroot. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 10, tel. 502 770 303, bibenda.pl Brasserie Warszawska Looking for classic cuisine with no daft flights of fancy? Here you have it. At a time when everyone wants to be Ferran Adrià, Brasserie has both a menu and interior that you can understand: panfried foie gras; elegant beef Rossini; and sinful apple tarte tatin, all served inside posh interiors of zinc-plated mirrors and chessboard floors. Their Michelin Bib Gourmand is a source of pride, but it’s the number of repeat clients that are the ultimate paean to the skills of the chef.

(E5) ul. Górnośląska 24, tel. 22 628 9423, brasseriewarszawska.pl Bubbles Occupying a small, square room, it’s intimate and relaxed: a place busy with blackboards and bottles, crates and clutter. It radiates warmth and honesty.

The food is exquisite, and includes big, meaty snails farmed in Mazury, and their signature dish: Swiss-style raclette.

Presented on a wooden chopping board, this cheese dish is classic melty goodness, and served alongside a pile of potatoes, onions marinated with caramel and candied pumpkin. Considering the place doubles as a champagne bar the prices are remarkably moderate. (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 512 540 913, bubbles. com.pl Casablanca Biały Kamień From the same team behind Na Lato comes Casablanca, a versatile venue that muddies the lines between café, restaurant, wine bar and hangout. Equally

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comfortable in each of these roles, it’s a place that feels fresh and cosmopolitan, not to mention completely in tune with the swank, glass surrounds. More to the point, it’s given wings to a part of Mokotów that before felt quite sterile. ul. Żaryna 2B, casablancawaw.com.pl Concept 13 You’d expect a rooftop meal at Poland’s ultimate luxury department store to cost the earth, but that’s not the case. The zł. 50 lunch deal allows Joe Public to enjoy the considerable skills of Dariusz Barański. That he manages to create different pieces of art each and every afternoon is a testament to his talent – fellow chefs and foodies privately talk of him as a Michelin star in the making. (D4) ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7373, likusrestauracje.pl Dekant Wine Bar Not just a contender for Warsaw’s best new wine bar, but also Warsaw’s best new restaurant! The tuna tartar comes with the added ka-boom of a nose clearing wasabi, while the filet mignon (a snip at zł.

79) is simply astonishing. The surprise are the ash-cooked potatoes, beautiful things with a char that wows. The desserts are few in number but equally outstanding: we fell in love with a passion fruit semifreddo with strawberries marinated in Grand Marnier. (F5) ul. Zajęcza 15, dekant. com.pl Der Elefant This leviathan restaurant unravels in a maze of wrought iron and monochrome tiles – beautiful to look at (it was created

by Oscar winning set designer Allan Starski), it’s caused a stir for more than just this alone. Where once the menu looked like it was devised by throwing darts at a cookbook, the focus has now been narrowed. While some of the dishes are strictly middling, the filet mignon (zł.

69) is one of the best meat deals in town in terms of quality / price / consistency. (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, tel. 22 890 0010, derelefant.com Dom Here’s the very epitome of casual dining: set on the ground floor of a suburban house, the warm corners and garden views give Dom a real sense of homey charm. In line with all that is a menu

EAT! Listings that celebrates simple, honest cooking.

Everyone who visits ends up loving the place. ul. Mierosławskiego 12, tel.

509 165 712 Drukarnia Wrapped inside an ugly 1950s facade, this former printing house unravels to expose a sensational interior high on retro pieces: jagged-shaped stone floor tiles, a red neon and stern Socialist era statuettes lend a heavy PRL accent, though the big statement at Drukarnia is supplied courtesy of the architecture itself. Tall windows, high ceilings and a peculiar spiral staircase that disappears into nowhere collude to lend Drukarnia a sense of light, space and depth. The food: limited choice of European standards cooked with competence. If you’re in the area, worth a look ul. Mińska 65, drukarnianapradze.pl Dyletanci Filled with crisp, modern citizens that

radiate confidence, Dyletanci introduces itself as a bistro set with green banquettes and Tom Dixon lamps. The wine selection is among the best in the nation, while the cooking has been left to Rafał Hreczaniuk, a workaholic chef with outrageous talent. His zander fillet thrills with every bite. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44A, dyletanci.pl Fest Port Czerniakowski Wedged into that narrow strip of land between the river and Port Czerniakowski, Fest feels unique for Warsaw – a place thoroughly isolated from the concrete badlands. But those thinking of this wooden cabin as a one season summer wonder would be overlooking its wider qualities. Of these, the cooking is at the forefront. Simple and straightforward yet more-ishly addictive, the menu is an atavistic celebration of fire and brawn. The ribs, cooked in a woodfired smoker that stands outdoors, have earned this venue a place in local

legend. (G6) ul. Zaruskiego 8 Genesis What the hell is it? Seen as an amorphous blob composed of triangular white plates and large glass panels, Genesis restaurant is an instant head turner. the feeling is of stepping into your own futuristic space adventure. As for the menu, that’s been revamped by the new chef, former Top Chef contestant Paweł Kibart, and makes use of a Mibrasa charcoal oven – apparently the first in Poland. (A4) Pl. Europejski 5, fb.com/genesiswarsaw Grand Kredens This mighty veteran continues to draw a steady custom on account of a wide-reaching menu that aims to keep everyone happy – and it usually does.

The design is surreal to say the least, and is laid out in such a way as to always guarantee a lively atmosphere. (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 111, tel. 22 629 8008, kredens.com.pl

A F R E N C H R E V E L AT I O N

REDOLENT OF A PARISIEN COURTYARD BAKERY, YOU’LL SMELL THE AROMA OF OUR FRESHLY BAKED BREAD FROM DAWN. OPEN THROUGH THE DAY, WE’RE DELIGHTED TO SERVE OUR FAMOUS BREAKFASTS, TRADITIONAL PASTRIES NOT TO MENTION A SELECTION OF WINES FOR YOUR DINNER. WE LOOK FORWARD TO WELCOMING YOU.

Być Może

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EAT! Listings Kieliszki Na Hożej Locally inspired, but with a French twist, the tastes are precise and well-balanced, but also varied enough to give a seemingly simple dishes several interesting sub-plots. From the outside, it looks like something straight from the 6th arrondissement. Through the door, and diners are met head-on by a seductive space that’s dark, intimate and full of gleaming glass: beautiful. (D5) ul. Hoża 41, kieliszkinahozej.pl

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Kuchnia Otwarta Kuchnia Otwarta have created a swell of excitement that’s rippled way beyond Wilanów. Why? Plotted out by Michał Molenda, the menu is a sincere work based around regional, seasonal produce: nothing contrived, nothing forced, it’s a card that roots out the very best that Poland has to offer. ul. Klimczaka 1 (Royal Wilanów), kuchniaotwarta.pl

district cover quite so many bases. From breakfasts and burgers through to salads and pasta, you get the sense of a place that aims to keep everyone happy. (H4) ul.

Francuska 45, restauracjamech.pl MOD Chef Trisno’s menu sets his French culinary training against his Singaporean upbringing. The outcome is a card (actually, a printed sheet of paper) that makes for dangerously enjoyable reading: duck hearts with beetroot / soy emulsion and braised red cabbage; duck confit with pok choy, soy / red wine sauce and spicy cranberry chutney. Moderate prices and funky décor (a retro mirrored wall, upside down plants hanging from the ceiling) give it an ad hoc edge and plenty of character. Note: by day its Warsaw’s top donut store, so visit at night for their proper menu. (D6) ul. Oleandrów 8, fb.com/MODOleandrow8

La Brasserie Modern The interior of Didier Gomez whispers intimacy, yet it also embraces notions of space and light. The casual elegance that emanates from the design is accented by warm colors, low banquettes and glinting mirrors. The menu fits seamlessly with the surrounds: a fresh, modern look at French cuisine, but one that values clarity and simplicity. (D3) ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8332, sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com

Mokotowska 69 Set inside a rotunda at the tail end of the street, it’s a place that exudes elegance and class. Most of all, however, it’s a restaurant to be enjoyed. Brought to you by the same team credited for Merliniego 5, Mokotowska’s appreciation of steak has been lifted from their elder sister.

Yet the virtues of this restaurant extend beyond steak alone: the Insider enjoyed a volley of greats – creamy breaded calf brains, sophisticated smoked eel, and Mazurian crayfish served in a deep, joyous sauce of rowan berry and brandy.

(E5) ul. Mokotowska 69, mokotowska69. com

Loft Color, that’s what Loft has. It’s everywhere – from the design, which is all bubble shaped lights and splashy, bright cushions, to the drinks: extravagant cocktails that possibly glow in the dark.

The menu is full of playful experimentation, something reflected by a seasonal menu that has, in the past, presented such choices as chicken with strawberries. (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 668 016 964, restauracjaloft.pl

Momu Dominated by meat that’s cooked using the only smoker of its kind in Poland, the menu is comforting and strangely familiar: these are falvors reminiscent of campfire nights – brawny, smoky tastes with towering Reuben sandwiches, juicy steaks, bone marrow and wooden slabs brimming with meats from MOMU’s smokehouse. Impromptu art, tweeting birds and a neo-industrial design add oomph to the busy ambiance. (C2) ul.

Wierzbowa 11, tel. 506 100 001, momu.pl

Mech Nestled close to the mouth of Francuska, Mech has gradually evolved to become one of the area’s main muster points: and you can see why. Few menus in the

Orzo Functioning until recently as Aioli by Mini, the subsequent re-brand has seen the industrial interiors enhanced by a mother

EAT! Listings lode of plant life and greenery. Other changes include the addition of orzobased dishes as well as a new motto that asserts their connection to ‘people, music, nature’. A cynical attempt to attach themselves to Warsaw’s fad for healthy living, or something more special? We’ll check back soon to check just which it is.

(D6) Pl. Konstytucji 5 Pink Lobster The door clatters shut to divulge a narrow space of tall palm fronds and marble finishes underneath soaring ceilings that seem to stretch on forever.

Bursts of flamingo pink color lend a dapper sense of dazzle to this polishedlooking venue. Food is an upscale work that, in spite of the Lobster’s name, awards equal importance to land and sea. Beautifully plated, dishes that the Insider fell for inc. sea bass ceviche, an exquisite exhibition of complex tastes set down in a slash of green on a plate that could pass for a work of sculpture.

Immaculate roe deer and a series of extravagant desserts also won praise.

(D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, pinklobster.pl Plato BEST WAWA 2017 “Neo Bistro” Conceived as a ‘smart casual’ restaurant, it’s a reasonably compact space with a modern style and incandescent bulbs hanging from a complex cat’s cradle of interweaving wires: classy but nothing too flashy or flamboyant. Then there’s the menu, a strange work that sees Spanish influences brushing shoulders next to Polish and Asian. It sounds silly and preposterous but my God it works.

December saw us wowed by beef tartar cut from Polish Hereford, an aromatic oriental broth, and a refined halibut encircled with sage pesto, redcurrants and fresh almonds. Stunning. ul. Klimczaka 1 (Royal Wilanow), restauracjaplato.pl Rozbrat 20 Much noise has been made about Rozbrat 20’s bread and wine selection, but their food is also something of a standout. Our trip in December meant twirls of herring pickled in vinegar and herbs and surrounded by a whorl of pond green colors; expertly assembled and boisterously flavored Hungarian foie gras; and a roll of gelatinous pork with ribbons of crispy salsify and a reassuring,

fleshy taste. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 20, rozbrat20. com.pl Secado Casual, intimate interiors complement a menu that’s expanded from its original Latin leanings. Everything we’ve tried here has been close to culinary gold, and that includes the surf & turf, tortillas and the roast beef. (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 66, tel. 608 707 799, secado.com.pl Soul Kitchen Bistro If the previous venue was all slanted towards low-pitched business conversation then the new one is positively festive in comparison: scuffed brickwork, tall bar stools, a long communal table, etc.

The seasonal menu is a pick-and-mix of small-to-medium plates, including a halibut gravlax, whose delicate taste juxtaposes well against the rougher, earthier kick of the radish, and crayfish presented in a bird’s nest of green beans, fennel and leek. For mains, look for the braised beef. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 18A, soulkitchen.pl Stixx It’s easy to distrust a menu with such international diversity, but the kitchen crew really make it come together: the Indian section is particularly outstanding. Then there’s the design, a balance between slick corporate and sexy cosmopolitan: with the Warsaw Spire towering above it outside, it’s the kind of address to take any new arrival who still thinks of Poland as being backward. (A4) Pl. Europejski 4A, tel. 22 340 4040, stixx.pl

‘Simplicity, elegance and atmosphere’

Cafe • Wine Bar • Restaurant • Whisky Bar • Wine Cellar ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 515 037 001 www.hoza.warszawa.pl www.facebook.com/hoza25 Open 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-21:00

Strefa If there’s a dining room in heaven, then it probably looks like Strefa – only marginally less white. Pure and pristine, the swan-like elegance of the interior whispers dignity and decorum.

Immaculate and refined, it’s a soothing atelier with a rarefied air. Mostly though, it’s the food that people talk about. Citing Nordic cuisine as his primary influence, chef Łukasz Andruszkiewicz has honed a menu of note which, on our November visit, included a deep and soothing mushroom soup the brought to mind Poland’s dark autumn forest. The tastes are clear and true and say much for a chef that has his brain switched on. (C3) ul. Próżna 9, tel.

22 255 0850, restauracjastrefa.pl warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings

Warszawski Sznyt Warsaw’s historic center is rightly glorified for many reasons – its restaurants, however, are not one of them. In fact, there’s probably nowhere in the city with a higher concentration of sub-par efforts. Aiming to redress the balance are Sznyt, an ambitious venue with swank interiors overlooking the Royal Castle, and a kitchen staff headhunted from blue ribbon venues such as Salto and Amaro.

Set over two floors (one focused on Polish cuisine, the other on ‘international’), the pride of the house is afforded to the wood-fired grill. (D2) ul. Senatorska 2, warszawskisznyt.pl Weranda Bistro Warmly decorated with shrubbery and dangling paper decoys, Weranda’s design is thoughtful enough to be in equilibrium with the wider Koszyki setting, yet sufficiently distinct to stand apart from the crowd. Kudos, as well, to the food.

Celebrated for their salads, don’t expect

to be pecking on morsels of rabbit food – instead, pepare for huge, leafy affairs assembled to look complex and intriguing.

Recommended is the Croatian salad which rrives ensconced inside jumbo leaves of lettuce and cascading with mango, shrimps, goat cheese and much more besides. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki), weranda.pl White One The changing face of Koszykowa street is almost embodied by White One – where once stood a disintegrating tenement stands a revamped building with this super swanky ground floor restaurant.

Ideal for those nights you want to make an impression, interiors are well-spaced, smart and modern but never too intimidating. The pared-down menu is fully reflective of contemporary dining trends and includes a daily changing tasting menu that’s dependent on both available produce and the whims of the chef. Full review soon. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 47, whiteone.pl Wilczy Głód The jaunty, impish design makes use of cartoonish wolves on the walls and treelike installations strung with bare light bulbs. And look, there’s a furry, mouse resting on a cushion. But if the place is playful and perky, then the cooking is both serious and sincere. Matching international ideas with organic local produce from small family farmsteads, you immediately sense this is a place created out of a love and respect for food. (D5) ul. Wilcza 29A, tel. 22 891 0285

A PLACE IN WHICH WINE PLAYS THE FIRST CHORD IN HARMONY WITH WHAT APPEARS ON THE PLATE…

Winsky Opened in November, Winsky have made a blistering start to life with early points scored for their selection of edgy ‘tap wines’ and menu of small plates – though mainly Polish in spirit, there’s enough international twists and turns to keep things varied. The design, with its deep sofas and riverside views, feels refined and considered – the kind of place you’d impress a first date. (F4) ul. Wioślarska 10

italian WE WELCOME YOU

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Ave Pizza The argument over who serves Warsaw’s

EAT! Listings best pizza goes right to the wire, but there’s no doubting that Ave Pizza are up there on the leaderboard. Set across a sparse, metropolitan area, this fashionable L-shaped joint comes endorsed by the capital’s notoriously picky Italian community. Order the pillowy calzone and you’ll soon learn why. (E3) ul. Topiel 12, tel.

22 828 8507, avepizza.pl Bordo Offering a breakfast menu from 9 onwards, Bordo starts busy and finishes even busier. Find simple but accurately reproduced Italian recipes and wood-fired pizza ovens that are expertly manned.

(D4) ul. Chimelna 34, bordo.com.pl DaCurio Although it looks small and humble DaCurio have made quick work of amassing an enthusiastic following. Credit for that rests with the Roman-style pizza that

comes sold by the slice. Made using Italian oils and flour, the pizzas here deserve the adulation they’ve received. (E3) ul. Tamka 45A Delizia The sheer proliferation of Italian restaurants lends an element of chance to dining out: cut through the noise by visiting Delizia, a place that’s consistently topped polls ever since it launched in 2010.

Lorenzo’s cooking is upscale Italian with a contemporary twist, and comes presented

by Luca, an ebullient ball of energy who patrols the floor with sparkling good humor. In the hands of these two an unforgettable night comes guaranteed.

Top quality imported products, a dimly-lit romantic atmosphere, a tasteful design and faultless food: no wonder so many rate this as their favorite Italian. (D5) ul.

Hoża 58/60, tel. 22 622 6665, delizia.com.pl Dziurka od Klucza An enchanting locale in which enigmatic,

lavender-painted doors sit embedded into the walls, as if waiting to be magically opened by the mysterious keys that hang from the numerous interior details. Set with empty picture frames and cotton ball lights, interiors just don’t get any cuter. As for food, the concise, daily-changing menu is centered around homemade pasta – pride of place is given to the black colored pasta served with seafood. (E3) ul. Radna 13, tel. 500 150 494, dziurkaodklucza.com.pl Focaccia The Insider’s visit went something like this: wrist-thick octopus with an arc of yellow mousse, conversation stopping beef tenderloin alongside a glistening pool of madeira sauce and then an orange ice cream with caramel and ginger that soon merged into a big gooey brew of chocolatey mess. The only surprise is there’s no Italian in the kitchen – it appears they don’t need one. This is seriously talented cooking inside an interior that fresh and light and reflective of the

BORDO HAS BEEN PRESENT IN THE HEART OF WARSAW FOR 17 YEARS Breakfast: 7 days a week from 9 a.m. till noon • Order breakfast and get a second one for just 1 PLN Lunch: 19 PLN (Mon – Fri, noon till 4 p.m.) • Soup + main + dessert Mediterranean cuisine, focaccia, bruschetta, sandwiches, pizza, pasta, Italian wines, cocktails, and a choice of lemonade.

VISIT OUR GARDEN IN THE HEART OF THE CITY!

bordo.com.pl

ul.Chmielna 34, tel. 22 826 0171 info@bordo.com.pl fb bordo chmielna

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EAT! Listings food. (D2) ul. Senatorska 13/15, tel. 22 829 6969, focaccia.pl La Tomatina Calamitous, slapstick service and accusations pointing to the overuse of readymade ingredients shouldn’t detract from good pizzas served in modern interiors of stark white walls and concrete floors.

Our spicy tiger prawn spaghetti was also okay, even if the presentation looked like a student had cooked it. (D5) ul. Krucza 47A, tel. 22 625 1047 latomatina.pl

Mąka i Woda Purists applaud an approach that uses a custom-made oven from Naples and imported ingredients such as 00 Caputo flour and DOP certified San Marzano tomatoes. Scrupulously authentic, it’s no wonder that it’s packed to the gunnels every night of the week – even their Facebook page warns of 20-minute waiting times for a table alone. (D4) ul.

Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 91 87 Otto Pompieri Off-hand there’s about three or four pizzerias in Warsaw that really get it right, but Otto, this place gets it righter. If that’s not a word then apologies, the thing is that’s exactly what it is. The artichoke pizza is an orgy of melty greatness, but it’s the margherita that’s the king: larger than the plate it’s served on, it’s a celestial experience from start to finish. What about the place itself? It looks every bit as delicious as it tastes. Set within the former, pre-war Hotel Saski, from the outside it shines amid the grind of Pl. Bankowy like a diamond in the rough.

Inside, it’s retro Little Italy – only new, polished, slick. (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, fb.com/ otto.pompieri Sexy Duck Marketing themselves as a ‘craft Italian kitchen’, Sexy Duck make a song and dance about artisan this and that while never justifying their own hyperbole. Were they not so keen to tell you otherwise, you’d mistake the food as being something from a mid-market high street chain enterprise. Pl. Konstytucji 3, tel. 22 400 3737 Si From the makers of Secado comes a new downtown venture: Si, a fun Italian stop with homemade pasta, an array of pizza and a hefty choice of cocktails. Geared towards good times, a list of rotating daily offers has done a fair job of drumming up trade. (C3) ul. Marszałkowska 115

UL. PRÓŻNA 10 TEL: 577 607 775 restauracjasanthai.pl

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Tutti Santi With a kitchen team trained by champion pizzaiola Valerio Valle you’d be right to expect something a few steps beyond your standard high street pizza. Cooked in a woodfired Valoriani oven, the attention to detail is something else: sauce from Pelati tomatoes, Milano salami and Farina

Le 5 Stagioni flour. Unsurprisingly, the communal table can really pack out. (C3) ul. Królewska 18, tuttisanti.pl

japanese & sushi Arigator This Japanese-style noodle joint whisks you to the narrow, steamy back alleys of late night Tokyo. Clad in corrugated iron and dark, weathered wooden slats, it’s got that buzzing sense of chaos that feels familiar from the films. And the food, gosh, they get that right as well.

From a tiny menu order up dainty pork dumplings, braised kakuni bacon or deep-fried tofu before hitting up a feisty bowl of ramen emanating life-affirming goodness. A complex tangle of interlacing flavors, it’s the sort of dish you’d happily queue up for: and yes, people do. (D6) ul.

Piękna 54

Benihana Fire, flash, show and sizzle: the Benihana experience merges cooking with cabaret with diners sat ringside around teppanyaki grills. These cooking stations are the stage for the Benihana crew to demonstrate their riveting range of nifty knifework and daredevil antics. Outside of the realm of the grill, the sushi is also strikes the right spot. (C4) ul. Twarda 2/4, benihanapoland.com Fat Buddha Immense in size, there’s a confident feeling of decadent ostentation: with light kept at bay by vast mulberry-colored drapes, what would otherwise appear as an over-sized hall feels intimate and sensual, dark and delicious. Japanese in spirit, the menu pitches a refined selection of exceptional dishes – elaborate dragon rolls; delicate gyoza; and beef tataki that’s lightly seared and thinly sliced. It’s all perfect. (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 2/4 Gabriel de Garcia & Sakana It’s not uncommon to hear the preparation of sushi described as a form of art, but Spaniard Gabriel de Garcia takes things in a new direction with his spectacular translation of this Japanese

EAT! Listings craft. Using premium ingredients and unusual combinations (seasonal fruits and flowers figure highly), his creations are a vivid blast of color and freshness.

Expect 2018 to get even better as word starts to spread of the magic that’s being woven. (D2) ul. Moliera 4/6 Izumi Sushi It’s not just the food that wows, but the interiors: a huge venue whose open plan doubles as an indoor forest – you need to see it to believe it. (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17 (pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 22 825 7950, izumisushi. eu Kago Sushi A place of such merit that it’s worth bludgeoning your way through the surging crowds of off-duty lawyers and second rate ‘slebs. A side project from the team behind Izumi, portioning here is strict and skimpy, but the precision, attention to detail and flavors are second to none.

Bills creep up fast as you opt for ‘just one

more nigiri’, but such is the brilliance that complaints are rare. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki), kagosushi.pl Mizu Those who’ve visited have been largely unanimous in their appraisal: Warsaw has not seen sushi this good before.

Elaborate, imaginative and immaculately prepped, there’s a magic here that makes the knees go wobbly. Fresh and flawless, disappointments are practically unheard of. Add to that an off-center location in a former factory and you get a true ‘in the know’ gem popular with celebs trying to go under the radar. Full review soon. ul.

Duchnicka 3, mizusushi.pl

Na Sushi Sleek, dark and dominated by a lush picture of a breathtaking waterfall, at Na Sushi a smart crowd join

forces around a horseshoe-shaped bar to click chopsticks over a top pedigree menu high on enticements: eel rolls with marinated pumpkin and sriracha wrapped in torched yellowtail and lime; spicy octopus rolls; and tempura rolls with shrimp, eel, mushroom, radish, leek and mayo. Fresh, creative and expertly assembled, it’s a welcome addition to a fast-rising area. Not cheap, but then good sushi isn’t. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 54, fb.com/ nasushikoszykowa Sato Gotuje Signposted by its own splash of Mangastyle art adorning the exterior wall, this Commie era pavilion feels small and squashed and assembled on a budget.

Who cares? No-one. An exciting departure from the norm – no sushi here – the menu is a selection of bitey Japanese street food such as grilled mackerel fillet with shavings of grated radish. Prices and quality ensure you don’t stop until you’ve gobbled your way through much of the

La Brasserie Moderne is a modern interpretation of traditional brasserie designed to bring the taste of the French art de vivre right to your table.

Discover a seasonal menu skillfully crafted by our Chef Maciej Majewski, who combined the finest culinary traditions of France with local flavors and a modern twist. Our open kitchen will complement your dining experience by making you feel you’re participating in a live culinary show. During the summer time, we also invite you to enjoy our signature dishes on an outdoor terrace.

E-mail: brasserie.moderne@sofi tel.com Tel.: +48 22 657 83 82 www.facebook.com/brasserie.moderne

Visit us Mon – Sun: 12 p.m. – 11 p.m. | 11 Królewska St | 00-065 Warsaw

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EAT! Listings menu. ul. Pawińskiego 24 Shoku Most places that claim to serve fusion do so because of an identity crisis. At Shoku, though, the mix and match approach when it comes to Asia (if it’s tasty, stick it on the menu!) feels rational and put together. Never short of custom, locals gather inside a bright, contemporary space to slurp down bowls of ramen, share shoku bowls or click chopsticks over small plates of dim sum and wonton.

Come summer, the scene ramps up a notch with diners flocking to a prim garden area that’s billiard green in color.

(A4) ul. Karolkowa 30, shoku.pl Sushi Zushi The mania for sushi is in recess, and that’s a good thing – the rogue operators are dead or dying off, and are survived by the best. And make no mistake, Sushi Zushi continue to be one of the No. 1 ex-pat choices. Appreciated by a stunning

crowd, the rolls are often bold, creative and always astonishingly fresh. (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 420 3373, sushizushi. pl Tomo While Warsaw’s other sushi stops gather cobwebs Tomo packs out each night – that should say enough. With the maki, sushi and sashimi bobbing past on wooden platters, this place aims for fast, maximum turnover without ever making the diner feel second best. (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2344, tomo.pl Uki Uki How much do the locals appreciate Warsaw’s original udon bar? Enough to queue outside the door? That’s right. Dining is a close quarters experience here, but is done so without complaint: that electric pasta maker turns out noodles of such chewy goodness that everyone leaves beaming. (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, tel. 728 827 705, ukiuki.pl

Wabu Sushi becomes a heaven’s gate spiritual experience in Wabu with the evening passing in a blur of beautiful compositions, of silky slithers of fish crowned with expert pinches of this, and little brush strokes of that. That’s all elevated even further by deliciously upscale interiors befitting of the Spire location. (A4) Pl. Europejski 2 (Warsaw Spire), wabu.pl

jewish Tel Aviv “People shouldn’t be excluded from high standards just because they’ve chosen the vegan path,” says Malka Kafka, the owner of Tel Aviv. As such, find a plant-based menu that gives the tastes of Israel a fancy schmancy style – so fancy that Depeche Mode ate here last summer! (D5) ul. Poznanska 11, restauracjatelaviv.pl

The recently opened restaurant and bar Mokotowska 69 is a perfect place for those who enjoy refined food and excellent wine. The restaurant offers classic Polish dishes with a modern twist, delicious steaks and a wide range of wine from all over the world. Mokotowska 69 was designed for those who enjoy Polish cuisine and those who would like to try classic Polish dishes with a modern twist, such as Mazurian crayfish in rowan brandy cream sauce, roasted catfish with pearl barley and beets or roasted duck with pears and blackcurrant. The restaurant also specialises in steaks made from American Black Angus (certified prime grade by the USDA), Scottish Aberdeen Angus and the highest quality Japanese Tajima-gyu cattle, “Kobe-style”: class 5, marbling 9+.

ul. Mokotowska 69, tel. (+48 22) 628 73 84 / (+48 22) 627 20 33, www.mokotowska69.pl

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EAT! Listings korean Ban Bao After a strong start Ban Bao have settled into mediocrity – and occasionally worse.

The Insider’s last visit was defined by K-Fries that looked suspiciously like oven chips, gristly Korean Fried Chicken and bao buns that were hardly edible. What the hell went wrong? Last chance coming up. (B4) ul. Żelazna 58/62 The Cool Cat Proving something other than just a faddish flash in the fire, The Cool Cat has caught the zeitgeist by the horns and come to represent the hip Powiśle style; casual and convivial and absent of aloofness, it’s a place in which all life seems to gather for a taste of good times. Refusing to take themselves too seriously, the angle is fun and forward-thinking, something that’s evidenced by way of an occasionally wacky menu of Americanized Asian food: the K-Fries (a big messy mass of kimchi, chips, bulgogi beef) are spot on. (F4) ul.

Solec 38, tel. 787 698 700 KoreaTown Rest Here, the ubiquitous KFC (Korean fried chicken) is all crunch and crackle and the bulgogi tender, juicy and the right side of sweet; accompanying them, an assortment of bitey dishes heaving with chilli flecked kimchi, daikon radish and pickled

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bits and bobs. All very good, but nothing compared to the bossam, braised pork belly scooped up by hand inside glistening perilla leaves: it’s a dish that soothes, gratifies and leaves diners looking every bit as pleased as the pipe-smoking tiger that gazes from the wall. (E9) ul. Olesińska 2, fb.com/KoreaTownRest Miss Kimchi Cheap and cheerful Korean street food served in a small, steamy space that’s frequently packed to the rafters. Box sets come piled high with meat, rice and veg.

The spotlight falls on the bibimbap, a satisfying mess of shredded veg, lively spices, a fried egg and beef bulgogi. This is replenishment in its truest form. (B4) ul. Żelazna 58/62, tel. 570 186 066 Onggi Positive transformations aren’t confined to Ramsay’s Kitchen Nightmares: after a dreadful start characterized by bland, claggy dishes, this Korean restaurant has spun a U-turn that’s left the competition reeling. The menu is daunting in size, but contains wildly interesting finds such as a streaky bacon stir fry, spicy pickled Daikon radish and lotus root simmered in soy sauce. (D2) ul. Moliera 2 Powidoki Set in the cool white cube that is the Museum of Modern Art, you’d think that Powidoki’s riverfront location would make

it a highly seasonal destination.

Not so. Though the menu’s brief and the background highly casual, the Korean choices feel more sophisticated and complex than anywhere else, a point that serves to keep business brisk.

Served in a turmeric tomato sauce, the pork dumplings are an almost compulsory order. (E2) ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 22 Sora Maybe it’s not the best, but it’s certainly the best-known Korean restaurant in town. The tabletop BBQ sets are an essential order and ideal for the shared bonding experience. It all tastes even better with copious quantities of Makkoli wine. (A4) ul. Wronia 45

latin & spanish Casa Pablo “We give Spanish food a new twist,” declares chef Gonzalo de Salas, which explains why, in between pungent cheeses and acorn-fed Bellota ham, we find ourselves demolishing a variety of dishes that buck all notions of tradition: as a starter the beetroot-marinated salmon served with wasabi emulsion is a fine example of this. With de Salas performing balletic tricks in the kitchen, Casa Pablo presents a masterful menu

EAT! Listings that ripples with adventure. (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5A, tel. 22 324 5781, casapablo.pl El Botellon A smart locale whose concrete shell is colored with strings of peppers and splashes of art: pleasant in a familiar kind of New Warsaw sense. Much more special is a menu that features snacky tapas sets, sexy canapes, Latin themed cocktails and – something to get you counting down till summer – the Botellon ice pop sticking out of a glass of wine. Coherent, consistent and well-thought out, it’s an operation that slots in smoothly with modern Powiśle. (F4) ul. Solec 18, elbotellon.pl Tapas Gastrobar The popular practice is to order so many plates and bottles that the table becomes a Magic Eye of kaleidoscope patterns.

A great place for sharing and general interaction, the ambiance and quality belies the corporate anonymity of the location. Though the gazapcho is first class it’s bettered by the patatas bravos: fried potatoes in a ballsy tomato sauce.

(A4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 251 1310, tapasbar.pl Restaurante Bunuel Spanish-owned Bunuel has left many in raptures. Simple interiors focus attention on the food, which in this case involves a crisp gazpacho that gets you missing summer, and grilled meats that leave many in a swoon. (H4) ul. Walecznych 61, tel. 798 659 554, bunuel-restauracja.com

mexican Dos Tacos Who doesn’t like asking for something that’s ‘under the counter’. In the case of Dos Tacos, doing so means inquiring about their range of ‘salsa clandestinas’: extra hot sauces designed for reckless thrill-seekers. But the true secret weapon at Dos Tacos is Isabel Balderas, a Mexican chef that has mastered the bright, bold tastes of her native country. This cuisine has enjoyed a breakout year in Warsaw, but while the millennials clamor over new food trucks and funky little start-ups, Dos Tacos is a timely reminder that the old guard sometimes know best. (D4) ul.

Jasna 22, tel. 22 243 4618, dostacos.pl Gringo Bar A Mexican wave is upon us, and high time too. After years of suffering frozen ingredients, timid flavors and daft Mariachi music to persuade us it’s all authentic, a raft of new cut-price eateries are showing the rest how it’s done.

Cooked and folded by fist bumping lads in back-to-front caps and baggy t-shirts, the food at Gringo is fiery, fresh and full of zing. There are detractors who claim this is a Polonized version of this cuisine, but the informal Gringo remains one of the market leaders. (E9) ul. Odolańska 15, tel.

22 848 9523, gringobar.pl La Sirena You don’t even have to think twice when asked to name the best Mexican in the capital. Inspired by the ultra-violent films of Danny Trejo, the hardcore interior heaves with machetes, holy shrines, skulls and wire mesh; but if La Sirena looks fab, it tastes even better.

Introducing a new dimension to Warsaw’s parched Mexican landscape, highlights inc. poblano peppers stuffed with pork/ beef, peach, apple and apricots, as well as a ‘near death’ salsa that’s finally living up to its name. (D5) ul. Piękna 54 Margarita Kolendra First impressions reveal a venue that looks like it wasn’t so much put together on the cheap as it was put together overnight. In essence, you’re left eyeing a sparse white room emboldened by a vulgar assortment of garish, peasant fabrics. The menu, though limited and restrictive, is one of those magic works of passion so rarely seen on Warsaw’s Mexican map. These are dishes delivered with real dash and spirit: if in doubt, order the Al Pastor tacos. (F1) ul. Okrzei 35 Urban Burritos It’s here, in this unassuming subterranean world, that people gather for what is being hyped as Warsaw’s top burrito.

Offering fillings of pork, beef, chicken and Portobello mushroom, wraps come expertly constructed and served with salsas that sing with gusto. Set within shouting distance of the US Embassy, peak times see Urban Burritos fill to the seams with America’s finest. (D6) ul.

Piękna 22, urbanburritos.pl

We’ve been thrilling Warsaw with authentic Lebanese tastes for 21 years!

Le Cedre Lounge Grzybowska 5A Tel 22 299 7299

Le Cedre 61

(opposite the zoo) Al. Solidarności 61, Praga Tel 22 670 1166

Le Cedre 84

(opposite the court) Al. Solidarności 84 Tel 22 618 8999

www.lecedre.pl warsawinsider.pl

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Traditional Polish Cuisine,

Ĺťurek

(traditional sour rye soup)

Golonka

(roast pork knuckle)

Placki Ziemniaczane

(potato pancake with gulash)

We serve Polish dishes on hot pans and sizzling cast iron and are winners of many culinary competitions Hand making our own pierogi since 1913 Pierogi Truskawkowe Strawberry dumplings

but don’t miss the pierogi OUR LOCATIONS IN WARSAW U L . K R A KO W S K I E P R Z E D M I E Ś C I E 5 5 | T E L . 2 2 6 9 2 7 2 0 4 U L . N O W Y Ś W I AT 6 4 | T E L . 2 2 6 9 2 4 1 3 5 AL. JEROZOLIMSKIE 28 | TEL. 22 826 7484 U L . F R E TA 1 | T E L . 2 2 8 3 1 6 1 9 0 UL. ŚWIĘTOJAŃSKA 13 | TEL. 22 635 6109 U L . F R E TA 1 8 | T E L . 2 2 6 3 5 7 9 5 9

EAT! Listings middle eastern

Dom Faraona Sitting just off Nowy Świat, this Egyptian restaurant comes soaked in the soothing scent of the sheesha. The comprehensive menu has plenty of zingy Middle Eastern small plates for starters, though really earns its stripes on account of its grill dishes: the lamb ribs are a house specialty. If you like what you see, visit their cafe in CH Panorama. (E4) ul. Ordynacka 13, dom-faraona.com Le Cedre With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent,

nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops. (E1) Al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166, lecedre.pl Le Cedre 84 Le Cedre just keep on getting it right. Authenticity is key in this chainlette (well, there’s another across the river), as you’ll discover when talking to Tony, the Lebanese owner. To see the diversity of this cuisine, order the balbaak (six cold starters) or the byblos (six hot).

And food aside, it’s the atmosphere that carries them that extra yard: the whole philosophy of this cuisine is to share and share alike, making it a uniquely engaging experience when dining with friends.

(B3) Al. Solidarności 84, tel. 22 618 8999, lecedre.pl

Le Cedre Lounge Furnished in voluptuous Middle Eastern style, the latest subsidiary of the Le Cedre empire bursts with fancy sheesha pipes, extravagant rugs and shimmery satin drapes. It’s a look that’s fun, familiar, intimate and warm. Less encyclopedic than that of its two sister ventures, Le Cedre Lounge has a slimmer menu that introduces several new tastes to fans of Lebanese cuisine. Helplessly more-ish, it’s food that’s in line with the vibey atmosphere and casual air. (C4) ul.

Grzybowska 5A, lecedre.pl Shuk Located behind Hala Banacha in this gradually blooming district of Warsaw, SHUK’s certainly worth the tram ride if you’re not a native Ochotian. An offshoot of the acclaimed Mezze, highlights on our visit included a well-seasoned Arabic soup with lentils and spinach followed by a skillet of fried oyster mushrooms cooked with onions and served alongside

Restaurant & Pastry Shop Warsaw, Żurawia 47/49, open: 7.00 - 22.00 reservations: tel. +48 (22) 621 82 68 Pastry Shop Warsaw, Felińskiego 52, open: 9.00 - 20.00

smakiwarszawy.pl

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EAT! Listings harissa topped with rose petals. You’re looking at quite a special place that realigns your mojo on an ashen Warsaw day. ul. Grójecka 127 Sokotra Casting a warm, steamy glow over this corner of Wilcza, Sokotra reveals itself as a well-designed nook with a rough, urban edge: telegraph poles, bare bulbs and exposed lumps of concrete. Yemeni dishes are available though it’s the Indian food that shines – the Madras is intense, pungent and suitably fiery. (D5) ul. Wilcza 27, tel. 22 270 2766, sokotra.pl

polish Bazyliszek Some parts of Bazyliszek hark to its years as a stately, stuffy restaurant. Now though it’s more earthy, with Jurassic portions of meaty, lardy food best consumed

with one-liter beers. The Rynek location and festive atmosphere account for its popularity more than anything that comes from the kitchen. (D1) Rynek Starego Miasto 1/3, tel. 22 831 1841, bazyliszek. waw.pl Bar Gdański Reopened last year, a brief but thorough refit conducted by the new owner has given this milk bar a late lease of life.

Gone are the plastic plants, putrid smells and that slow feeling of death, replaced instead by a fresher look in keeping with the times. Despite this, the historic core has been retained including the daffodil colors and original floor tiles. How’s the food? Cheap. That’s probably the kindest thing you can say about it. Despite that, Gdański feels like an essential part of the community. (B1) ul. Andersa 33, fb.com/ bargdanskimuranow Belvedere Łazienki Królewskie Set in an imperial age glass orangery,

it’s festooned with intricate latticework and botanical exotica. The updated interiors are the work of acclaimed set designer Boris Kudlicka, and lend a fresh, contemporary tone that goes hand in hand with the menu. But behind the gels and emulsions and pretty little swirls, this is cooking of substantial depth; it’s cooking that takes you to the very soul of Polish nature. ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. 22 558 6701, belvedere.com.pl Bez Gwiazdek BEST WAWA 2017 “Modern Polish” BEST WAWA 2017 “Chef” Hide the white tablecloth! One of the more discernible trends of late has seen chefs attempt to replicate fine dining standards but in casual surrounds. Few are more qualified to do so than Robert Trzópek, a man whose résumé includes experience gained in Noma and El Bulli.

Seeking to ‘reinterpret forgotten Polish cuisine’, his tasting menu at Bez Gwiazdek focuses on a different region each month

Focaccia Ristorante Modern take on Italian cuisine

by Samuele Mariani

tel.: +48 22 829 69 69 ul. Senatorska 13/15, Warsaw/Old Town restauracja@focaccia.pl, fb.com/restauracjafocaccia www.focaccia.pl

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EAT! Listings – November was a goosey exploration of Kujawa-Pomerania and included such flights of fancy as a goose-stuffed donut for starter. Intimate, forward-thinking, thrilling, it’s no wonder foodies talk about this place with reverence and awe. (E3) ul.

Wiślana 8, bezgwiazdek.com.pl

Great food

Seasoned polish steaks

Bistro Pod Sowami Inside, the ground floor restaurant looks chic and elegant: tall windows and long polished tables, a granite bar and sleek looking lines. The menu backtracks through the passages of history to present ‘old Warsaw’ dishes as seen through a distinctly modern lens, with the high point being a 15-course tasting menu for zł. 60. That translates to a barrage of artfully adorned, telescopic-sized plates.

Some work are great, but others are even greater. All in, it’s an excellent ambassador for the new face of Old Praga. (F1) ul. Okrzei 26, fb.com/bistropodsowami Ćma by Mateusz Gessler Open round-the-clock, Ćma has rescued the city’s night owls from the evil clutches of the center’s grisly kebab dens. Set against an edgy, moth-themed interior designed by guerilla artist Tomasz Górnicki, this on-trend nightspot elevates late night dining to new heights with a menu that involves modernized Polish delicacies such as sausage with horseradish emulsion, black pudding with apple and… goose stomachs. (D6) ul.

Koszykowa 63, mateuszgessler.com.pl

Wonderful service

Beef n’ Pepper ul. Nowogrodzka 47a tel. +48 785 025 025 mon-sat: 12.00 - 24.00 sun: 12.00 - 23.00

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Czerwony Wieprz (Red Hog) An amusing restaurant that looks back at communism through a rose-tinted lens.

Under the glowering gaze of commie tyrants, staff dressed like obedient members of the party’s Youth League deliver hefty dishes from a cheeky menu that is in itself a collector’s item. (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 22 850 3144, czerwonywieprz.pl

Delicja Polska Looking stately (pink bows, gilt touches and immaculate linen) but never stuffy, Delicja have a modern Polish menu that includes sous-vide salmon marinated in beetroot leaves, then topped with horseradish foam and dill emulsion. Brilliant.

But then so was everything else we tried, including the exquisite seasoned roast beef. (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 64, tel. 22 826 4770, delicjapolska.pl Dom Polski Almost like it was designed for the manor born, Dom Polski has the rarefied atmosphere of a country retreat: bow-tied staff who click their heels, decorative antiques and a menu that’s a sumptuous anthology of posh Polish cooking. When you need to give visitors a sense of classic Warsaw, Dom Polski is the first out of the hat. (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 2432, restauracjadompolski.pl Dom Polski Belwederska Accessed via curling pathways and bursting shrubs this restaurant conjures images of an aristocrat’s manor. The air of privilege matches a menu that’s rich in fanciful classics such as their signature goose. Elegant and exquisite, consider it your default choice for a taste of true Poland. (F8) ul. Belwederska 18A, tel. 22 840 5060, restauracjadompolski.pl Elixir by Dom Wódki There are some who call the food here ‘deconstructed Polish’. In actuality, ‘reconstructed’ would be closer to the mark. The chef has taken local classics and redrafted the recipes with the swoosh of a contemporary pen. The outcome is a pleasure from start to finish: a life affirming żurek, a tartar that could fulfill ambassadorial duties for Poland, and a handsome beef tenderloin sprinkled with crispy potato shavings.

Thoughtful pairings with lesser-known, boutique vodkas add another dimension that serves to complete this pleasing, patriotic adventure. (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl Folk Gospoda If you missed the last train to Zakopane, then a night in Folk Gospoda is the next best thing. Kitted out like a typical tavern in the Tatras, it’s a good-humored celebration of mountain-slope traditions: heaps of meat and lard with plenty of vodka and song in between. (B3) ul. Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605, folkgospoda.pl Jaś & Małgosia Insouciant one moment, your best friend the next, the staff at Jaś & Małgosia show

EAT! Listings the two faces of Polish service brilliantly.

Reactivated a couple of years ago, this gem has a story dating back to the 60s, and a great atmosphere primed for simple food and local drinks. (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 57, tel. 502 033 711, klubjasimalgosia.pl Kieliszki na Próżnej You’ll find Kieliszki na Próżnej, the latest restaurant to mark the rehabilitation of Próżna, so named after the 1,116 wineglasses that hang tantalizingly over the bar. As an anchor feature the suspended glassware is arresting, and equaled only by a long stretch of wall art doodled by Mariusz Tarkawian. The food matches up to the interiors, with a modern Polish menu that – on our visit – involved a thick, brilliantly spreadable foie gras pate, a thick slab of brawn and a delicate piece of moist Baltic cod. It’s pure seasonal comfort. (C3) ul. Próżna 12, tel. 501 764 674, kieliszkinaproznej.pl Mała Polana Smaków Put simply, it works on every level: from the service to the space – outside, a terrace featuring upcycled crates overlooking Morskie Oko, and on the inside, a cute little room with woodsy bits and big glass jars of mystery ingredients. It’s casual, but still fit for more serious roles: e.g. girlfriend night. And the food: exceptional.

Lots of seasonally changing choices that on our visit meant salmon sausage matched with beetroot and horseradish sauce along with pinches of lavender and fennel. (F9) ul. Belwederska 13/44, tel. 22 400 8048, polanasmakow.pl Papu Evoking the spirit of a gentleman’s manor, Papu looks every inch the classic Polish restaurant. Reliant on regional produce from mom & pop farmsteads, chef Bartek Kędra’s menu does a gold carat job of enhancing old-fashioned recipes through the use of modern techniques. (D9) al.

Niepodległości 132/136, tel. 22 856 7788, restauracjapapu.pl Podwale Piwna Kompania Prowling mountain bands generate a beer hall atmosphere, while the courtyard garden – designed to replicate a Mitteleuropa square – is one of the best you’ll find. But the obscene portions can’t mask what is pretty poor food. Go there

for the experience, if nothing else. (D2) ul.

Podwale 25, tel. 22 635 6314, podwale25.pl Prasowy Delicate diners turn their back on milk bars, yet this canteen-style phenomenon, with its history rooted in communism, has enjoyed a remarkable renaissance and a freshly found popularity with a new generation. Sure, the food is an acquired taste and best described using words like ‘basic’, ‘bland’ and ‘honest’, but Prasowy gets our vote for a cool design that’s seen the 1954 interiors sensitively updated.

(E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16 Restauracja Pod Gigantami All pomp and splendor, huge portraits of monarchs in ermine stare down from the walls; pristine parquet floors gently creak underfoot; from another chamber, the sound of clinking glasses whispers through the air. Yet as much as the interior makes an impact it fails to steal the show. That belongs to Paweł Zieliński, a chef whose biography includes a stint at the Michelin starred L’Ecrivain in Dublin. Now back in Poland, his menu is a patriotic proclamation of all that is good.

It’s here the Insider enjoyed its favorite żurek of 2016. (E5) Al. Ujadowskie 24, tel.

22 629 2312, podgigantami.pl Restauracja Polska “Różana” The rarified atmosphere of Różana is a pleasure indeed. Close to the frontline of Mokotów / Śródmieście, you’d never guess the proximity of the center. Seated in their garden, one feels removed from the city – a fountain burbles quietly in the background, starlings hop around the trees. From the inside, one hears the distant tinkle of the house pianist. Just being here is a thrill in itself, and the food is a Polish dining extravaganza served from the top table: farmhouse duck, saddle of venison, etc. (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 22 848 1225, restauracjarozana.com.pl Schabowy Red gingham tablecloths are just about the only decorative element in this plain Jane restaurant; aesthetics don’t figure highly, and that much is clear through an approach to plating presentation that’s best described as basic. But boy, they can cook – simple but delicious, the food here is Polish home cooking at its best: great ingredients used to even greater effect. warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings As the name suggests, schabowy is the star, and here you’ll find it served in three different forms. ul. Obrzeżna 1, fb.com/ schabowy.warszawa Słoik Jarheads will love Słoik, a place lined with glass jars brimming with colorful ingredients and bright preserves. Find natural Polish produce and traditionalsounding dishes treated with a careful and contemporary hand. The approach pits modernist against classic, and the winner is, well, you. This is traditional Polish food updated for the discerning, latter day palate – and it’s really quite something. (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 600 396 688, restauracjasloik.pl Stary Dom A classic restaurant in style and history: back in the day it was a favorite haunt of jockeys and race goers from the horse track nearby. Pre-war recipes form the basis of the menu, with the team using seasonal produce and the latest technology to bring out its best. ul. Puławska 104/106, tel. 22 646 4208, restauracjastarydom.pl Talerzyki Presenting big flavors on small plates, here’s a place that miniaturizes the more glorious aspects of the nation’s cuisine and does so in style. The usual suspects are here – silvery slithers of herring;

glistening pickles; and beef tartare that flushes raw redness – and if any extra oomph was needed then that’s supplied by classic, old school cocktails served by smooth-talking gents in crisp shirts and braces. Smart and stellar but never silly or over-played, Talerzyki manages the improbable by Polonizing the concept of tapas and coming out trumps. (D6) ul.

Mokotowska 33/35 U Fukiera New arrivals looking to get a grasp of local cuisine have many options in varying price brackets. U Fukiera is definitely in the big spend category, but visitors come away with a common sense of wonderment. That’s largely due to enchanting interiors that have guests exploring twinkling chambers that unravel like a fairytale. Set in a 500 year old townhouse, the beautiful backdrop is accompanied by a grand menu of duck, venison, veal and lamb. (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 27 (Old Town Market Square), tel. 22 831 1013, ufukiera.pl Warszawski Sen By Mateusz Gessler A quite stunning restaurant dominated by dark geometric patterns and the installations and ideas of guerilla artist Tomasz Górnicki. Once you’ve caught your breath and snapped off a few pics for your Instagram, settle in for a menu that gives Polish ingredients a highly contemporary treatment. If you thought

Hala Koszyki was buzzing, then this edgy space is perhaps its biggest buzz of all. ul.

Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki), mateuszgessler.com.pl

Zapiecek Seven Warsaw locales, with our favorite found in the vaulted passages of Świętojańska. The menu is highly traditional, with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’. It’s for the pierogi though for which they’re famous; find approx. fifty types delivered by servers dressed like saucy country maids. Locations inc. ul.

Nowy Świat 64, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska 13, tel. 22 635 61 09, & ul. Wańkowicza 1, zapiecek.eu Zielnik A quiet Mokotów side street is the setting for this little secret. In it, flowers, lots of them, and a warming wood interior just right for winter. In summer, head instead to their glorious garden across the street in the park: adding a sophisticated twist to the holy grill, the skewered lamb is to die for. (D10) ul. Odyńca 15, tel. 22 844 3500, restauracjazielnik.pl Zielony Niedźwiedź A refuge of swish fancy, think of the Green Bear as a place of sanctuary and seclusion and of chic, high living. From the outset, you’re made to feel that good things will happen, and this they do – certified by Poland’s nascent Slow Food movement, the menu gives big billing to the suppliers that keep the pantry stocked. But the truth is, these aren’t the only stars of the show. Led by Wojciech Deres, the kitchen team are an accomplished bunch. The Insider’s November visit included a rousing goose terrine and finely balanced veal sweetbreads.

When skies are cold and granite, it’s food like this that helps you carry on. (E4) ul.

Smolna 4, tel. 795 794 784, kafezn.pl

russian Skamiejka As a social point, this family-run restaurant works incredibly well. Located

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EAT! Listings at the far end of Ząbkowska, it’s a place filled with assorted clutter and Russian bits and pieces: album covers, books, jars of pickles and jumble sale finds. The welcome is second-to-none, while beverages include a wide range of vodka and beer from the former Soviet-bloc nations.

The food though is a bit of a massacre.

Take the zharkoe: what should be a thick and hefty pot roast is limp and placid and empty of taste. ul. Ząbkowska 37, tel. 512 123 967, fb.com/skamiejka

scandinavian

but with an undercurrent of bustle that keeps the mood bright. It tastes like the real thing as well. Sourcing their catch from the freshwater lakes of northern Poland, the offer is divided into fish that have been smoked, steamed, fried or baked. Check out the perch ‘chips’ fried in batter. (C4) ul. Marszałkowska 140 (enter from ul. Rysia), urysia.com.pl

Bazar Olkuska Once a sad little side street, Olkuska has evolved to become just about the worst kept secret in Warsaw. Home to the city’s top eco-market, trips here end with shopping bags filled with French cheeses, Italian hams, Hungarian sausages and fresh fruit and veg. (E10) ul. Olkuska 12

specialty food shops

Befsztyk The Prokopowicz family has come a long way since launching Befsztyk in 1994.

Top restaurants, celebs and ex-pats are

Nabo The décor is, we’re told, typical Danish cafe – bold open windows, simple lines, high shelves filled with books and games on the table. But what is Danish food? There’s Old Danish on the menu: meatballs and open face sandwiches with meat and fish in various textural configurations and then there’s New Danish: an emerging trend towards fresh, seasonal food (no microwave oven at Nabo), with locally sourced and innovatively concocted ingredients. ul.

Zakręt 8, tel. 22 842 0256, nabocafe.pl

seafood L’Arc French in style, seafood dominates the menu of L’Arc with the lobster and oysters a particular standout. Full review coming soon. (E8) ul. Puławska 16, larc.pl Lokal na Rybę Open just three days a week, the limited hours have created a supply / demand situation which sees this basic-looking venue often packed out. The menu is revised on a weekly basis though never really goes beyond three starters and a couple of mains – but that’s all they need to captivate the public. In recent times, octopus goulash and smoked herring pierogi have played distinctive roles. (D9) ul. Kwiatowa 1/3/4, fb.com/lokalnarybe U Rysia Devoid of frills bar a glowing neon sign and a brooding mural of Jesus, it looks like a Polish fish restaurant should – basic

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EAT! Listings listed as clients, and all agree that this operation is indisputably ‘top of the chops’.

Find steaks seasoned for three weeks, gluten-free smoked meats, Merino lamb, BBQ kits and so much more. Home delivery, internet ordering and Englishspeaking staff round out this legend. many locations, befsztyk.pl

bacon, sausages, gluten free ready meals, confectionary etc. Run by the same team who once operated Fish & Chips on Koszykowa, the offer has now expanded to cover non-food items like Royal Wedding souvenirs, England football paraphernalia etc. (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 8, tel. 692 240 804

BioBazar With its previous home in Wola undergoing a substantial redevelopment, the BioBazar has moved to Mokotów. At the forefront of Poland’s food revolution, it’s a place that shines a light on ecologically certified goods and produce. Fresh fish, cheese, eggs, bread, cured sausages, honey... on it goes. Comprehensive in its pitch, everything you need to pursue a bright, happy life is here on this spot. ul.

Wołoska 3, biobazar.com.pl (B4) ul. Żelazna 51/53, biobazar.org.pl

The Crazy Butcher Grzegorz Kwapniewski, better known as ‘Warsaw’s celebrity butcher’, has a new store in town, that being a corner unit in Hala Koszyki. Named by chefs across town as their principal source of meat, Kwapniewski’s offer includes Polish Red Angus, long-seasoned, marbled beef, not to mention veal, lamb, poultry and cured meats from small scale producers. ul.

Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki)

British Shop British food and beverages inc. cider,

Dobrze Co-op The Dobrze Food Co-op aims to ‘widen access to healthy, seasonal food’ while also supporting sustainable agriculture.

Founded in summer, 2014, the project collaborates with over 20 farms and local businesses and sells fresh vegetables and fruit alongside cereals, dried goods and other bits and pieces. ul. Wilcza 29A & ul. Andersa 27, dobrze.waw.pl Forteca Kregliccy Spot the stars of Warsaw’s restaurant scene perusing the stalls at this weekly farmers’ market. Held each Wednesday, look for Pan Ziółko, Poland’s first celebrity farmer (!), Portobello’s from the country’s only organic mushroom farm and the magical yogurts from Mleczna Droga Manufaktura Serów. ul. Zakroczymska 12, kregliccy.eu/forteca Hala Gwardii Taking its cue from the market places of Lisbon and Marseilles, Hala Gwardii aims to reprise its former pre-war role as the city’s best-known food market. Designed to complement rather than compete with Hala Mirowska outside, the market is a

H A R M O N I Z E D BY C H E F G A B R I E L D E G A R C I A , D I S C O V E R W H AT H A P P E N S W H E N T H E PA S S I O N AT E TA S T E S O F S PA I N M E E T T H E M I N I M A L I S T P R E C I S I O N O F J A PA N …

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EAT! Listings sensory big bang with dozens of stalls specializing in everything from cheese and sausages, to rolled Thai ice cream and posh pet supplies. (C3) Pl. Mirowska 2, fb.com/halagwardii Kosher Shop Snuck to the side of the synagogue, stock up on Kosher produce from the friendly store, before hitting up the falafel tent outside for, aside from the obvious, kosher ice cream. (C4) ul. Twarda 6 Kram Housed in the DeFabryka development, Kram taps into Warsaw’s growing mania for artisan produce to present posh, made-on-the-day bread, fresh fruit and veg from local farms, as well as assorted goodies and pre-packaged items from acclaimed firms such as Rude Health, Cherry Tree, Mleczna Droga, etc. Covering every base imaginable, it’s cult status looks assured. ul. Duchnicka 3, facebook. com/kram.nativeingredients

KuchnieŚwiata The first stop for most ex-pats, with an offer that includes food and drinks from across the globe. The choice is vast but mainly involves tinned and packaged products. Internet ordering now also available. Various locations, kuchnieswiata. com.pl Mojo Picon Mojo Picon specializes in vending Spanish groceries, expressly the produce of the Canary Islands. A creditable charcuterie section is enhanced by an array of cheese, wine and jarred exotica. (D5) ul. Poznańska 3, mojopicon.pl Ostra Kuchnia A superb internet shop retailing quite literally the hottest sauces known to man: brands include Blair’s, Dave’s, El Yucateco, Mad Dog, Melinda’s and many more besides. Also sell jalapenos, chili peppers, salsas and pastes. Polish-only website, but easy to navigate and superb customer

service. ostrakuchnia.pl Targ Śniadaniowy The idea is a bit different as it is out in the open air, on the grass, so good weather is a must. Part healthy food market, part breakfast picnic, part educational space, part chance to get your two wheeler fixed but above all, an idyllic way to spend a Saturday morning in a beautiful part of town. Now also present in three other locations: check their web for details.

Al. Wojska Polskiego, tel. 508 121 891, targsniadaniowy.pl

steak houses Beef n’ Pepper A social space that encourages friends to gather and make merry over big meaty courses. Served on heavy

The Pink Lobster is enthusiastically visited by connoisseurs of the good things in life: find top range produce given the fine dining treatment courtesy of chef and co-owner Jarek Walczyk (President of the Chef’s Club Foundation, Head Chef Bocuse d’Or Poland, and the brand ambassador for 92, ZT Kruszwica, and Bursztyn cheese).

UL. ŻURAWIA 6/12, PINKLOBSTER.PL MOB: +48 572 672 772 RESERVATIONS: KONTAKT@PINKLOBSTER.PL

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EAT! Listings tree stump plates, steaks here use Polish Angus aged for a 28-day period. If you’re into the concept of sharing with your fellow man, then the Beef n’Pepper plate offers a pile of everything: wings, ribs, steak. (C5) ul. Nowogrodzka 47A, tel. 785 025 025, beefandpepper.pl Butchery & Wine The Sarf London-born Bertha oven has revolutionized the way steak is cooked, retaining moisture in a way no-one thought possible. Expect robust pieces of animal full of big, brawny tastes, but there’s so much more than just meat: starters involve a sea bass ceviche that pings with citrusy flavor not to mention more-ish pork crackling that pop like fire bangers in the mouth. A place of energy and ambition, it’s a great mix of both new and classic. Bookings advised.

(D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 502 3118, butcheryandwine.pl Downtown Restaurant There’s now a few candidates for Warsaw’s best steak, and Downtown have certainly upped the erm, stakes, with their new menu. Yes, the doors of Downtown are a gateway to heaven – particularly true if, like us, your vision of heaven is a rich green field filled with fat, juicy cows.

But don’t for one moment assume the offer ends with cows. (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental Hotel, level 2), tel. 22 328 8745

Hoża Wine and steak: it sounds so simple, but Hoża have taken two simple pleasures to another level. It’s an ebullient space with service right out of charm school, and a kitchen team with a real knowledge of cows. A red-blooded affair, the menu is a steak sensation and well paired with a handpicked wine list. (D5) ul. Hoża 25A, tel.

603 778 275, hoza.warszawa.pl

Warsaw’s latest food market / hangout has caused a storm since opening in October. A great tenant mix has seen 25 vendors signed-up, with highlights include raclette from the cool couple at Melt, vegan goodness at Tel Aviv, burgers from the legendary WarBurger and heaps of meat from Brasil On The Plate. Keeping it social are craft beer points, a bio wine stall, and a late night bar that overlooks it all. Open Friday morning through to Sunday night, a visit is essential. (C3) Pl. Mirowska 2, fb.com/halagwardii

Merliniego A classic looking steakhouse that swirls in shadow, brickwork and elegant touches, it’s a place to immerse yourself in an atmosphere that’s all surreptitious conversation and distant clinking glasses.

The steaks are out-of-this world, with USDA prime beef from New York’s legendary Ottomanelli & Sons and Scottish beef from London’s Smithfield Market.

On our last visit we splurged on the Grade 9+ wagyu ‘kobe’ rib-eye and found ourselves eating the steak of a lifetime.

Simply amazing. (E10) ul. Merlineiego 5, merliniego.pl

Hala Koszyki Integrating old with new, this huge project brings together some 18 food outlets inside a busy interior that’s all iron girders and industrial lighting. While there’s a feeling that there should have been a bigger focus on artisan, independent traders, that’s done nothing to dent Koszyki’s astonishing popularity. Units of note include the Gringo Salsownia, Port Royal Fish & Oyster Bar, and the Sobramesa Tapas Bar. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63, koszyki.com

street food Hala Gwardii Housed in a Tsarist era brick hall,

Nocny Market Set on and around a disused train platform, this weekend hangout gets thronged: guys with waxed whiskers queue for new wave beer while uber cool girls cast Jessica Rabbit eyes at hip hop DJs. All the better, there’s a whole lot of food: an ever evolving line-up brings together not just food trucks, but quality restaurants hawking their specials from tiny stalls – keep an eye on their facebook to see who is booked for the weekend.

(A5) ul. Towarowa 3 (Warszawa Główna Train Station)

thai Basil & Lime Reports have been hit and miss, with one Insider noting calamitous service and food that was both over and undercooked. Not on our visit, though. Short and to the point, the menu is defined by its clarity, and we enjoyed a phenomenal yellow curry and banana fritters with the right combo of crunch and goo. Beautifully decorated with charcoal colors and punches of lime, the Insider felt good long after visiting. Will you? (E8) ul. Puławska 27, tel. 22 126 1943

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EAT! Listings

San Thai Informal, airy surrounds; fair price points; and a menu that covers enough bases while never becoming overwhelming.

Though open for just a few months, so far San Thai have found themselves commended for their fiery recipes and diverse range of dishes. A half-decent wine selection adds to the impression that this street is taking off as something of a scene. (C3) ul. Próżna 10, restauracjasanthai.pl Silk & Spicy If you don’t benchmark Silk & Spicy against what you’d eat in Asia (and you really shouldn’t), then you might enjoy it. “The curry was on taste-wise,” said our disappointed graphic, “but the cream cheese didn’t work in the sushi and the kmichi-style salad served at the beginning was very pedestrian for such a place.” (D5) ul. Żurawia 16/20, tel. 22 629 7012, silkandspicy.pl Thai Thai In terms of design it’s little short of perfect: gold vaulted interiors lend a muted glow to a largely black on black space while serene looking Buddha’s peer on the diners below. As for the food, that’s one big success story with plenty of lively flavors and dynamic colors. The Tom Yang Kung, a deeply nourishing fish broth that awakens the senses with a sharp, spicy jolt, is a must! (C2) Pl. Teatralny 3, tel. 601 818 283, thaithai.pl Thaisty The most successful business model pioneered in recent years? That’s the work of Thaisty, a bright, cheerful spot with a ‘street style’ and moderate prices – queues, at times, stretch out the door.

Vivid colors and a busy open kitchen lend the place a happy buzz that lasts through the day, yet despite this many have voiced concerns that Thaisty’s runaway success has come at a cost to the overall quality.

Even so, the BBQ skewers remain a good order. (C2) Pl. Bankowy 4, tel. 730 000 024, thaisty.pl Why Thai A calming, almost holistic interior sets the tone for a meal dominated by the rich and aromatic tastes of Thailand. For a

lively, spicy start begin with a mango and cashew salad, before moving forward and onto their celebrated curries. Imported chefs keep the flavors authentic, with the pad Thai being something of a house favorite. (E5) ul. Wiejska 13, tel. 22 625 7698, whythai.pl Wi-Taj Despite the name, it’s actually the cuisine of Vietnam that is the dominant entity in this restaurant. There is the odd moment of madness (glazed cherries appearing at random), but in general Wi-Taj does a grand job of representing a kitchen that hasn’t always enjoyed the greatest publicity in Warsaw. The crunchy, perky nem are a fine way to start, but it’s the steaming bowls of pho that have this Insider promising to return. As for prices, these rarely climb north of zł. 30. (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 4

ukrainian Kanapa This swish villa is a thoughtful essay in understated elegance: antique and classy, yet with enough eclectic touches to that add that little sense of home. The food fits the backdrop with cooking that feels adventurous in style yet traditional in its taste. The borscht, presented in a huge, hollowed out cabbage, incorporates cooked beetroot, stewed pears and plums, chunks of meat and a wallop of sour cream – these rich and raucous flavors are offset by highly sophisticated alternatives such as blobs of pike caviar and oyster cream on a delicate, crispy fish skin. (E8) ul. Narbutta 10, fb.com/kanapa. restauracja

vegan & wholefood 30 Koszyków In light of the lavish, local vegan choice, critics could call the menu at 30 Koszyków a little mundane – hummus peaked three years ago, didn’t it? Yet while the concept might not feel new, the execution does. From a limited set of choices, Koszyków’s fast expanding

customer base enjoy a range of kick-ass hummus recipes that have acquired a serious following: the beetroot is highly recommended. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 30, fb.com/30koszykow Edamame Vegan Sushi Sushi without its star ingredient sounds ridiculous, but this vegan sushi joint manages to out-manoeuver its traditional competitors by replacing below-par fish with fresh, vegetarian produce: sugar snap peas, radish, carrots, asparagus, etc. The results are both magical and addictive, and leave you wondering if vegan sushi stands to be Warsaw’s next trend. (D5) ul. Wilcza 11, edamame.pl Falafelove Cramped, sweaty and uncomfortable, Falafelove’s customers choose to overlook the aesthetic shortcomings for one very special reason: this is falafel that sets a new benchmark. Recommended is the spicy wrap, comprising of ‘red falafel’, humus, harissa, sundried tomatoes and tahini. If there’s space, join the others on the terrace outside. (C2) ul. Senatorska 40 Falla Both pricing and location combine to keep this venue blocked solid with a muddled mass of students from the uni nearby. Looking simple, maybe even spartan, crowds flock to this corner unit for recipes inspired by the Middle East and Asia: huge wraps tightly packed with pungent kimchi; generous pans brimming with shakshouka; and an array of hummus in unfamiliar forms – chipotle, coriander, carrot and more. (E3) ul. Oboźna 9, fb.com/falla.wawa Krowazywa Tatts, hats and plaid shirts aplenty in Krowarzywa: a survivor of the hipster era, for many it’s the epitome of Warsaw’s vegan scene. The burgers set a benchmark that all but a few fail to surpass. (D5) ul.

Marszałkowska 27/35, tel. 881 777 894 ul.

Hoża 29/31, krowarzywa.pl ul. Hoża 29/31, krowarzywa.pl Kuchnia Konfliktu First came a food truck, then a cargo container. Now, Kuchnia Konfliktu have a legit address they can finally call home.

First founded to provide work for refugees fleeing conflict zones, this social project warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings has won acclaim not just for social initiative, but more importantly its food. With employees hailing from the likes of Iran, Afghanistan, Chechnya and Iraq, prepare to dive deep into the exotic. Full review next issue. (D5) ul. Wilcza 60

Leonardo Verde Geometric patterns, plant arrangements and the large format illustrative artwork of Dominique A. Faryno decorate Leonardo Verde, an upmarket – but inexpensive – Italian joint. Pizza is the forte – order the ‘hot romantic’, a combo featuring chili, avocado and tabasco. (D5) ul. Poznańska 13, fb.com/leonardo.verde.restaurant Lifemotiv Aiming to ‘uncover the new potential of millet, buckwheat, kale, beet and cabbage’, Lifemotiv is living proof of how far dining in shopping center food courts has advanced. Kick-off the day with a hummus wrap or an acai smoothie bowl, or check-in later for a Portobello & BBQ burger, or a zingy Mango & Chipotle salad.

Keeping in mind the rest of the world, non-vegetarians have the option to add free range chicken to their salad, wraps or bowls of kasha. ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), lifemotiv.com.pl Lokal Vegan Bistro Aside from a small menu consisting of more standard vegan offers, Lokal keep Homer Simpson characters in mind with regular guest slots for street food that’s given a full vegan makeover. Offhand, that’s meant vegan kebabs, cheesesteaks, burgers and zapiekanka, all of which have been pretty damn good. (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, 517 615 122 Momencik Steamy, tight and sweaty, this pokey subterranean cavern has one key thing going for it: burritos that outrank the majority of ‘proper Mexicans’ in town. The salsas, too, are magnificent (ooh, pineapple), arguably the best in the city. (D5) ul. Poznańska 16 Organitheka Seasonal, fresh, organic: Organitheka is all these and more. Raw, plant-based meals are their principal claim to fame, though

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these are accompanied by a selection of cold pressed juices, raw chia desserts, coconut yogurts and other surprises: the tiny dining room belies the depth of choice and flavor. Closing soon. (C4) ul. Twarda 1 Vegan Ramen Shop Co-joining two fads is always a risky business – just ask Loco Mexicana. All of a sudden, the focus doesn’t fall on just getting one thing right, but two. But despite this double-headed challenge Vegan Ramen have struck gold on account of their complex bowls of restorative goodness: their fan base extends way beyond the boundaries of Saska Kępa. Enjoy in a cool interior filled with cute Japanese props on dozens of ‘levitating shelves’.

(G3) ul. Finlandzka 12A

Veg Deli An entrance beset with candles, plant pots and seasonal veg charms people in, and they tend to stay on to dine on creative vegetarian options that nearly always hit the spot. The tacos are a bit of a disappointment, but the quinoa burger is fabulous, and the homemade Russian pierogi an absolute highlight. Even committed meat eaters recognize there’s something special going on here. (E3) ul.

Radna 14 Wars i Sawa w Nowym With its wide spaces, high ceilings and echoing sense of clatter, there’s something of a canteen spirit to Wars i Sawa. Occupying a chunk of the Nowy Teatr, it gets particularly busy after performances – and rightly so. Fresh, seasonal and well-presented, the food here is vegan, healthy and unerringly popular. The vege-burger sounds prosaic but is actually something of a star turn.

(E9) ul. Madalińskiego 10/16 Weganeracja Warsaw’s vegan revolution is spreading outwards, and with places like Weganeracja waving the manner there’s no reason why it’ll stop there. Hits include towering beetroot burgers, chili sin carne and possibly the only zucchini bigos in the city. The desserts are of particular note, with recent highlights numbering a chocolate cream tart with avocado. ul. Domaniewska 22A Youmiko Vegan Sushi Exceptional in every respect, Youmiko’s

tasting menu is one of the undisputed highlights of what’s become known as the vegan square mile. “Our aim,” declares their manifesto, “is to mix traditional Japanese approaches with Polish creativity and surprise you with new textures and flavors.”

Mission accomplished. (D5) ul. Hoża 62, youmiko.vg

vietnamese Oh My Pho A busy, family-run joint, OMP’s specific claim to fame is what many are terming the best and most authentic pho in the ward. Steamy and aromatic, this is pho as it should be: full of big herby thwacks, ribboning noodles, and soft strips of meat in a clear, restorative stock. Often cited as being the ‘soul of the nation’, just a few noisy slurps are all that’s needed to corroborate the life-affirming goodness of this beautiful broth... (D5) ul. Wilcza 32, fb.com/ohmyphowilcza Vietnamka BEST WAWA 2017 “Casual Dining” Divey but lively, diners step down into Vietnamka to find a shouty little lair of mint green walls and wobbly wooden tables. Infused with a gentle sense of chaos (drinks after mains, mains before starters), there’s a certain charm at work that feels authentic and convincing.

As for the food, you suspect that’ll be ’nam good when TV chef Kurt Scheller wonders in for a take-out. And boy, yes it is. Squiggled onto a crumpled sheet of paper, menu items include giant bowls of warming pho, steamed goat with lemongrass and more-ish spring rolls.

Exceptional in every respect, the cooking here sails Warsaw’s Asian scene into uncharted waters. (D5) ul. Poznańska 7, fb.com/VietnamkaPoznanska Viet Street Food Bistro What started out as a roaming food truck has settled down into life as a legitimate restaurant. Widely looked upon as the source of the best Vietnamese chow this city’s ever seen, the small menu reveals steaming bowls of pho and banh mi baguettes loaded with meat and greens.

(H4) ul. Królowej Aldony 5/2, fb.com/ vietstreetfoodpl

DRINK! SATURDAY NIGHT SPECIAL

The varied music policy shines a light on a revolving schedule of sounds, pinning its attention on everything from jazz and soul to Britpop and electro. Spread across a series of chambers decorated with vintage fittings, parquet floors and wood-paneled walls, Spatif’s main success lies in replicating that fun, spontaneous feel of a house party that’s spiraled out of control: no matter their individual back story, everyone gets on (and occasionally gets off). Just about the most unpretentious club night you’ll find, this labyrinthine pre-war tenement feels fun, diverse and never up its own arse. And it’s got one of the best smoking dens of the lot: hidden down a winding basement corridor, you almost feel like you’ve crashed into someone’s living room.

Klub Spatif Al. Ujazdowskie 45, klubspatif.pl

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DRINK! Listings

THE WORLD WATCHES

With so many classic expat pubs dead and buried, the question for many isn’t who’ll win t h e Wo r l d C u p , b u t where to watch it…

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Bierhalle

Various locations, bierhalle.pl A dead obvious choice, but while Bierhalle have become decidedly mainstream when considering the local beer revolution, this micro-brewery chain remains a safe choice for acceptable beers served in an atmosphere that’s animated but never hostile.

Champions Sports Bar

Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), champions.pl With 41 TVs and two large screen projectors, it’s physically impossible to miss a kick. The Marriott location keeps prices higher than average, but that doesn’t stop it getting seriously packed for the bigger games: bookings become essential.

Hala Koszyki

ul. Koszykowa 63, koszyki.com Disclaimer: with Koszyki not responding to our World Cup enquiries, their inclusion on this list is down to pure guesswork; it’s practically insane to imagine that such an important social hub won’t be organizing something…

Jabeerwocky

ul. Nowogrodzka 12, taproom.pl With a large number of craft beer bars turning their backs on the World Cup, Jabbers ride to the rescue with a big projector to keep football fans happy. Helping their cause is a line-up of beers that’s utterly maverick.

Koko & Roy

ul. Wilcza 43, kokoandroywarsaw.com

DRINK! Listings Settling into their rhythm after opening last year, this American/ Polish-owned joint hits the sweet spot between restaurant and bar.

A small choice of craft beers, some deadly NYC-style cocktails and a gradually growing band of expat regulars mark it out as a clever little choice. An added boon, if you’re in celebratory mood, is their flexible approach to closing times.

Łazienkowska 3

ul. Łazienkowska 3, lazienkowska3.com Attached to Legia Warszawa’s stadium, hit up Łazienkowska 3 for the more local experience – there’s a good chance the roof may blow off into space should Poland do well. On the downside, you’re going to be drinking macro-brewed beers inside a place that looks distressingly like a 1990s nightclub.

Legends

ul. Emilii Plater 25, legendsbar.pl One of the few genuine, expat run bars left in the city has become the default sports choice for more than just Brits alone. Attracting a highly diverse crowd, this English pub comes into its element come matchday with the raucous atmosphere augmented by rocket-powered Westons Cider.

Lolek

ul. Rokitnicka 20 (Pole Mokotowskie), lolekpub.pl Looking a bit rough and ready, this park-centered pub has the boisterous, bacchanalian spirit of a Bavarian beer hall – and that’s before the football even begins.

The atmosphere is something else, with the open-fire grill sending wafts of sausage-scented smoke over the heads of the sloshed audience. For reasons unknown, when it comes to football tournaments it’s become an established favorite of Scandi / North European expats.

Nabo

ul. Zakręt 8, nabocafe.pl

When you think of Nabo you don’t automatically think of football.

Nonetheless, with a huge expat fanbase, this Danish-owned spot should get positively lively for matches involving the Danish national side.

Royal Wilanów

ul. Klimczaka 1, royal-wilanow.pl We’re told to expect a big outdoor screen and a lorryload of deckchairs from which to watch it. Being Wilanów, expect an international crowd that won’t bite your head off.

Stixx

Pl. Europejski 4A, stixx.pl Though a dominant force on the corporate expat scene, there’s more to Stixx than just ‘seal the deal’ drinks. Vast, slick and thoroughly international, it’s become a calling card for cosmopolitan Warsaw. The atmosphere really ratchets up a notch when the roof rolls back on the wooden decking, and the stars twinkle above: throw in a bit of football and it gets even better.

Tapas Gastrobar

ul. Grzybowska 63, tapasgastrobar.pl A surprisingly decent place to watch football, Tapas GB promises to be pretty much the best place in Warsaw to catch the Portugal / Spain clash. Great tapas, a cluster of outdoor seats and a passionate Latin atmosphere should be part of the parcel.

I’M NOT A FOOTBALL FAN: GET ME OUTTA’ HERE! The Alchemist

Pl. Piłsudskiego 3, thealchemist.pl One of central Warsaw’s favorite after-work pints say that, as things stand, they have no plans to broadcast football… yet. Read-

ing between the lines, that means all could change if Poland do well.

Bar & Books

ul. Dunaj 20, barandbooks.pl Actually, we didn’t even ask them, but there’s just no way one of the city’s most sophisticated bars would stoop to showing the World Cup. Surely not?

Bar Pacyfik

ul. Hoża 61, fb.com/barpacyfik More guesswork from the Insider’s team, though it’s pretty much odds-on that Pacyfik are waaaay too cool for anything like football.

Beirut

ul. Poznańska 12, beirut.com.pl Cleverly somewhat, Beirut are covering both bases by showing football in one room, but keeping the other two free. You won’t find many hipper places to watch / escape the match.

Cześć

ul. Grzybowska 2, fb.com/CzescQualitap Usually a football-free zone, Cześć will show Poland’s matches, the final and “anything really f***ing important,” (their words, not ours!), but should otherwise remain insulated from the World Cup.

Kufle i Kapsle

ul. Nowogrodzka 25, kufleikapsle.pl Most craft beer bars promise to be a safe haven for the duration of the World Cup, but few have a higher profile than Kufle i Kapsle.

Expect business to continue as normal in one of Warsaw’s premier tap pubs.

Pani Wina

ul. Wilcza 11 We’re told, quite emphatically, there’ll be no World Cup whatsoever. On the downside, we’re also warned they’re closing in July to move to an as yet undisclosed premises – enjoy it, and enjoy it NOW! warsawinsider.pl

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Review

A city institution makes its return…

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P

ardon To Tu, remember them?

Regarded as one of Warsaw’s most experimental live music venues, its closure at the start of last year was a kick in the nuts for the city’s alternative ‘night people’. Having seen the original venue on Pl. Grzybowski bulldozed as part of the area’s relentless gentrification, the feeling among their fanbase was one of ‘game over’. But not so fast. Last summer saw the opening of a temporary seasonal home attached to Teatr Nowy, a move that was repeated towards the end of last month.

A provisional solution it might be, but for Pardon’s faithful regulars that news was good enough.

Rounding the corner, you understand why. Strung with overhead lightbulbs and scattered with a jumble of furnishings, this revived version has that same indomitable spirit associated with the first: dogs romp about while Warsaw’s intelligentsia discuss the issues of the day. As dusk turns to night, a gentle drunken fog settles in the

PHOTOGRAPHS ED WIGHT

BEG YOUR PARDON?

Pardon To Tu ul. Madalińskiego 10/16, pardontotu.pl

air, and the atmosphere crackles as the drinks mount up.

If there’s a difference, then it’s one that’s quite key. Pardon’s summer home is exactly just that: an open-air area with bits of corrugated roofing.

If it rains, you sure as hell know about it. But not many seem to mind, and that’s especially true come the onset of gig night. With concerts held in a tight warehouse structure flanking the terrace, it’s here that the true soul of Pardon truly comes alive. As our resident music man once wrote: “nights get lost in a magic swirl of innovative sounds, with the murky ambiance given a helping hand by an unorthodox audience that gels into one vibrant mass.” The location may have changed, but these words still apply.

As for a more permanent venue, rumors are building that something’s afoot. “From a legal point of view I can’t say much,” says proprietor Daniel Radtke, “but we’re hopeful of making an announcement in the coming few months.” In the meantime, watch this space.

Nights get lost in a magic swirl of innovative sounds...

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DRINK! Listings bars & pubs 2Koła Sat, as it is, in the abandoned backspaces and brickyards behind Zachodnia station, 2Koła feels like Warsaw’s dirtiest little secret. Still stained and smelling of grease and oil, this former garage is piled high with dented sofas, warehouse palettes and motorcycling detritus. Yet the supremely friendly owners have turned this shadowy lair into a cult bar that’s specifically celebrated for rowdy jam sessions that cover everything from ragtime to rockabilly. ul. Tunelowa 2B 8 Dzień Tygodnia Though the owners remain the same, the unit that once housed Kwadrat couldn’t be more different: no longer a grungey, shadowy space, it’s been rebooted with lots of brash, bursts of color, strings of fairy lights and pops of modern art.

What’s not been lost is the amiable sense of gentle chaos: buoyed by a quirky beer selection and fun music policy, this remains one of the friendliest venues in the parish. (D5) ul. Poznańska 7 The Alchemist A small place with a big bag of tricks: upscale pub grub from Brit chef Ed Shellard, fancy cocktails, and a self-serve wall of beer from a choice of global brewers.

Poland’s still getting used to the idea of ‘a pint after work’, but in The Alchemist the idea of a post-office drink just seems so right. (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 3, thealchemist.pl Bar Gemba Despite occupying the bottom corner of an office development Gemba isn’t short of character: that is, at least, if you measure character by the number of thrift store armchairs and vintage extras.

Furbished with lampshades, luggage and varying odds and ends, it’s the kind of dark, debauched bar that trended amongst artsy Poles in the early 00s. (D5)

it’s a bar that’s dark and divey, raw and real. More than just a spot for the cool kids, there’s an inclusive atmosphere that feels positively international. As for drinks, the habanero / salsa infused Bloody Maria is a life-affirming gargle that sweeps through the body like an electric current – three sips and you feel like Superman. (C5) ul. Hoża 61 Bar Studio The ascetic, modern décor is intentional – both not to compete with the fine adornment of the original walls and to break through the building’s grandiose airs. It’s hard not to be overawed by the sheer gigantism of the Palace of Culture that looms above. It seamlessly slips from café during the day into its more culturally active persona in the evenings, with concerts, film screenings, plays and political discussions. (C4) Pl. Defilad 1, barstudio.pl

Bar Warszawa De Luxe Leave your visit to the weekend when De Luxe unfurls into something resembling a Polish wedding disco. All the requisite characters appear in this spinning vortex of Boney M: vodka-fuelled Incredible Hulks, groping granddads, svelte students and everyone else in between. Somehow, the formula works without a hitch. There are Poles who’d be mortified by this representation of their country, but the truth is, it’s a rip-roaring time that’s enjoyed by most. (D2) Krakowskie Przedmieście 79 Bazar There’s Krusovice, Bernard and Staropramen on tap, and the Czech slant is lent added meat by a series of evenings held in cahoots with the Czech Cultural Centre – it’s during boozy disco nights the party spills into a shadowy cellar with light retro hints. On ground level its raw and industrial with asphalt colors and overhead pipes. You wouldn’t expect it, but the margaritas are smashing. (F1) ul.

Jagiellońska 13

ul. Wilcza 50/52

Bar Pacyfik From Day 1 there was something that felt special about this place, and that feeling has only swelled with the progress of time. With a retro-kitsch interior delivered straight from the age of Scarface (candy floss pink, ocean blue),

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Beirut They’ve smashed a wall through though that’s still not enough to accommodate the crowd. Adorned with detritus inspired by the Lebanese conflict (ammox boxes, sandbags and… a bomb), by day find media types posturing by their Macs. At night, the air of cool dissolves into a wild,

happy whirl of international voices. (D5) ul.

Poznańska 12, beirut.com.pl

Bierhalle Having tapped their first beer eight years back, this microbrewery has morphed into a national phenomenon with outposts across the country. All Warsaw locations have a cut/paste Bavarian atmosphere, hefty wooden fittings and waitresses dressed like mountain frauleins. The drinks themselves are formulaic and nothing special. various locations, bierhalle.pl

Bohemia You have to credit them for trying something different, but by going for a slick, corpo style Bohemia have completely missed ‘the essence of Czechia’. Filled with smooth wood and gleaming glass, it feels more boardroom than beer hall (actually, make that bored room). What goes right? The beer. Poured from a ‘tank’ system designed to maintain your beer’s freshness, it’s every bit as good as drinking straight from the tit of Pilsner’s own brew master. (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, bohemiarestaurant.pl

British Bulldog In terms of aesthetic it’s the most accurate replica of an English pub you’ll find. And they get a further nod for a brilliant covered terrace that’s great in all weather. Not that you’ll find many British expats in here, they’ve been boycotting the place ever since the dismissal of the original British manager.

Judging by the poor standards of beer and food, you might want to follow their example. What could have become an expat legend is, in essence, a big wet plop of disappointment. (D4) ul. Aleje Jerozolimskie 42, bbpub.pl

Central Bar The beer (supplied by Bierhalle) is fine, the cocktails are getting better, and the atmosphere is cranked to max: you get the buzzy sense that you’re in the middle of something that’s captured Warsaw’s imagination – the natural focal point of Hala Koszyki, the ever-stretching Central Bar has been one of the biggest hits of 2017. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki) Ceska With its fake brickwork and shameless

DRINK! Listings proliferation of Pilsner paraphernalia, the general feeling is that Ceska feels forced and phony – looking like it was fitted out to a rigid company blueprint, it’s more like the kind of theme pub you’d find off Leicester Square. Service, meanwhile, can be surly, forgetful and occasionally plain hostile. The ‘tank’ pouring system is a considerable plus: try the ‘mliko’, a full pint of creamy foam that can be sunk in a swig. (D4) ul. Chmielna 35, ceska.pl Chłodna 25 After several closures, noise clampdowns and a change in management you’d imagine C25 to be a mere shadow of what it once was. But after a slow start the new owners appear to have rescued this listing vessel and returned it to it best. On the ground floor it’s a place of creaking floorboards and retro armchairs, while the basement gets opened for experimental music nights and improvised orchestras.

Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), hardrockcafe.pl

Irish Pub Opened in 1991, it’s doubtful that the place has seen a cleaning lady since, but the general sense of murk and muck does add to the authenticity: it looks and feels like a pub should. Served by a stern, expressionless barman, the Guinness arrives in a mug that’s seen better days but is actually surprisingly decent.

Nothing memorable, but not the calamity you may anticipate from a Polish-run Irish pub on the fringes of Old Town. (C2) ul.

Miodowa 3, irishpubmiodowa.pl

Kosmos – Inne Beczki Craft beer, pizza, late nights and DJs! In a nutshell, that’s Kosmos. Attracting the kind of crowd you’d anticipate (trend aware 20/30-somethings), it’s the kind of place where a dull time is rare. (D5) ul.

Grizzly Gin Bar More prone than ever to global trends, news that the international gin revival has hit Warsaw comes as no real bombshell.

The style in Grizzly is dark and hip with the design largely limited to moody lighting, some witty murals and a bank of outdated TV sets given an artistic twist; the smoking room is great for accidental meetings with curious characters while the occasional gigs really pack a punch – it’s fast becoming the latest and loudest night in the area. (D5) ul. Wilcza 46 Hard Rock Cafe Full Throttle cocktails, lively staff and a classic rock soundtrack: the energy of HRC is hard to find fault with. And on the rare occasion there is a lull in the night, use the opportunity to sniff around memorabilia that includes a black leather number once worn by Madonna. (C5) ul.

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(D4) Enter from ul. Nowy Świat 26

Państwo Miasto Is there anything better than sitting in a bar/café, book in hand, while summery sunshine pours through the windows?

We go to Państwo to do just that, an echoey, cavernous spot with a young, lively crowd that’s keen on scholastic events and political causes (B1) ul.

Andersa 29, panstwomiasto.pl

Poznanska 24

(B3) ul. Chłodna 25, klubchlodna25.pl

Elephant Belgian Pub Signposted by a jolly, dancing elephant, this Belgian pub presents its cause the moment you enter – there’s twenty or so taps laid right out in front, and to the left a fridge that’s expected to top out to cover 200 beers. The design is basic – brickwork, beer kegs and varying ephemera of the brewing trade – but it doesn’t need that much more: it’s about the beer, after all. (C1) ul. Freta 19

series of low-budget prefabricated cabins, presenting possibly the highest density of bars in the capital: in summer, it feels like one big street party. Adding to the gentle sense of confusion comes the realization that so many bars look the same – accessed through clattery, barred doors, visitors walk into what can only be described as murk. Klaps, with its dildo beer taps and phallic walls, is probably the most well-known of the lot.

Kraken Rum Bar Named after one of the ocean’s most feared mythical creatures (the scary squid from Pirates of the Caribbean), the woodclad Kraken features a wall of cymbals, heavy furniture and some interesting photography. While there’s some decent bottles of rum, there’s perhaps not enough to justify calling it a rum bar. The place rocks though. (D5) ul. Poznańska 12,

Paradox Billing themselves as a ‘sci-fi / gamers / role play asylum’ this is a cradle of geeks, nerds and people who collect serial killer memorabilia. Decorated with plastic black crows, a map of Mordor and figurines of goblins, watch as oddly attired suspects engross themselves in ‘for hire’ games with names like Hobbit and Bewoulf. (B1) ul. Anielewicza 2, paradox-cafe.pl

fb.com/KrakenRumBar

Legends Over the years Legends has earned a legendary status amongst the expats and Anglophiles. Their cause is helped by touches such as a proper darts board, Sky Sports and a traditional menu that’s as authentically English as the Downing Street cat. Presiding over it all is Graham, a seasoned expat and Everton nut. (C5) ul.

Emilii Plater 25, legendsbar.pl

Między Nami With 18 years of service under their belt you may think of Między Nami as being an antiquated has-been. Not so. Haunted by a mix of media types, savy tourists and local characters, this hip white piece of post-commie Warsaw has an enduring, almost timeless appeal. (D4) ul. Bracka 20, miedzynamicafe.com

Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’ Approximately twenty bars occupy a

Plan B Plan B is the very essence of dive Warsaw. Weekends pass by in a raucous blur, with the party spilling out under the colonnades outside – it helps to look like a DJ, but in truth everyone is welcome.

The hangover from this shabby, grubby bar is traumatic. (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), planb.pl

Rozrywki After a couple of years during which it had started to feel a little like yesterday’s man, ul. Mazowiecka has had a resurgence and its sense of self restored. Playing a part in this comeback is Rozrywki, a svelte bar with a clientele that values the importance of looking its best. Beyond the immediate appeal of the beauties and wannabes, the cocktails are the chief enticement and given star treatment by a competent staff who’ve been handed a quality set of tools with which to work with. ul. Mazowiecka 6/8

DRINK! Listings Sheesha Lounge Providing you don’t mind sharing the weekend with some of the most gloriously gorgeous people in the city, then a trip to Sheesha ticks all the boxes.

Presenting itself in a whirl of action, the exotic, clubby atmosphere hits fever pitch come the midnight hour. Earlier, soak up the atmosphere with a scented hookah while lounging under eastern lights. (D5) Al. Jerozolimskie 33, sheesha.pl

Ulubiona Set inside the archway, look for a heavy door next to a dented ashtray seemingly unemptied for the last couple of months.

Shadowy and shabby, you’ll usually find barflies strumming guitars or engrossed in a solo game of chess. An intensely personal experience, it’s a bar that compensates for its lack of glitz with a stoner-style ambiance that soon sweeps over all. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 27

Smak Brasserie Open Friday through to Sunday, the upstairs gallery inside Hala Gwardii has views of the market hall action below and a design that’s based around moody lighting, open spaces and rescued furnishings. A fine place in which to soak in the atmosphere of this echoey, pre-war hall. (C3) Zelaznej Bramy 1 (Hala Gwardii)

W Oparach Absurdu Hidden under Persian rugs, velvety drapes and reclaimed antiques, some still refer to it as The Spider Bar in reference to the giant tarantula that once hung from the wall. There’s an air of louche 60s living here, and it gets weirder when bands with names like the Bum Bum Orchestra enter to play trumpets amongst vodka-tipping guests. (F1) ul. Ząbkowska 6,

Stixx It takes a moment to allow the sheer magnitude of Stixx sink in. Having adjusted to the wow factor of the interior – which can best be described as cosmopolitan-industrial – most retreat to the long, all weather deck which in itself is quite something: the aesthetics are such that a cocktail party on an oligarch’s yacht comes to mind. There aren’t many better places for a drink when the roof is rolled back and the stars twinkle above. (A4) Pl. Europejski 4A, tel. 22 340 4040,

oparyabsurdu.pl

Warszawa Powiśle The prime months for this former ticket booth arrive each summer when the deckchairs outside provide ample opportunity for the city’s young and fashionable to gather in an almost carnival-like atmosphere. Once seen as the hipster Center of Power, it still maintains great popularity with whiskered, tattooed sorts.

(E4) ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B, warszawapowisle. pl

stixx.pl

Świetlica Long and narrow, dark and murky, it’s as raw as they come: toilets of grubby menace, a smoking room clad in spray art, broken fittings and general gloom.

Basically, it’s everything you demand from the last bar of the night – a place where you can slide into the shadows and watch the world spin around. (E7) ul.

Marszałkowska 17

Ul Cool and current, the globalized menu has distinct Asian accents and is enjoyed in a rough-chic interior of painted brickwork and dangling lights. Come night it feels dark and divey, the kind of place you head to party. And party you will – closing at two during the week and four (and beyond) at the weekend, the vibe is hard and energetic and befitting of Poznańska.

(D5) ul. Poznańska 16

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Worek Kości A celebration of both the burlesque and bizarre, Worek Kości is the bar Edgar Allan Poe would create were he raised from the dead. A lively evening hangout with ad-libbed cocktails and an unconventional program of events, you’re as likely to visit during an open-mic night as you are a discussion on Silesian serial killers. This fascination with the morbid and macabre manifests itself by way of a quirky design featuring hundreds of skulls and book shelves lined with the complete works of Stephen King. (E7) ul. Bagatela 10 Żyrafa Sucked inside it’s green/blue glow, visitors all but collide against the bar with a swing of the door. It’s just 15 sq/m, but that doesn’t stop drinkers rolling in.

“There’s some nights we’ve had 30 people in here,” says the barman, a thought that both terrifies and exhilarates in equal

measure. (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 22

cafés Bistro Spatif Beautiful people need beautiful places.

Therefore, it’s a surprise that Mokotowska is so wanting when it comes to daytime venues to break from boutique bingeing.

Bistro Spatif redresses the balance presenting a narrow room that announces itself in a blast of tropical turquoise, bare brickwork and pristine parquet.

Immediately engaging, this compact cafe is everything you need during daylight hours – and once they’ve closed for the evening, head across the courtyard to the larger, livelier Klub Spatif. UPDATE: CLOSED (E5) ul. Mokotowska 58 Bułkę przez Bibułkę There’s a feminine style to this cafe, what with its cute, girly pastels, petite plant pots and woodsy finishes. But no matter what your gender or age, there’s something immediately sunny and positive about this place. Slow food sandwiches arrive on wooden boards, there’s pretty homemade desserts and a careful choice of wine: falling in love with it is easy. ul. Puławska 24 & ul. Zgoda 3, bulkeprzezbibulke.pl

Być Może It’s all about artisan bread and breakfast in the industrial looking Być Może. It’s taken the concept of Charlotte (groan, there’s even a communal table), and improved it with excellent breads and a crowd that’s a little less pleased with itself. (E7) ul. Bagatela 14, bycmoze.com.pl Cafe Crystal Despite its somewhat generic look, Cafe Crystal transpires to be anything but. Specializing in Korean desserts, the ace in the pack here is their choice of bingsu: a light but elaborate concoction of shaved ice and fruity toppings. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 22

Charlotte Menora If the air is smug and self-satisfied, there’s a good reason for that: Charlotte have come to embody modern urban Poland: energetic, ambitious and ferociously trend conscious. And to think,

Enjoy the hospitality and tastes of the Bosphorus in Poland’s most authentic Turkish restaurant Pl. Konstytucji 2, tel. 883 444 441, anatolia.pl

DRINK! Listings some look at it as a mere bakery. Occupying a long space, the latest outpost of this café chain doesn’t overlook the area’s Jewish heritage, with the menu featuring several Jewish delicacies: the bagels are ok. (C4) Pl. Grzybowski 2, bistrocharlotte.pl Coffeedesk Looking flawless in her pearl white colors, Coffeedesk is a place that does it right. Brewed by expert coffeeologists, the humble cup of Joe becomes an object of adoration. Populated round-the-clock by headphoned freelancers and digital nomads tapping into their Macs, it’s a light, bright spot with a dynamic style and a keen sense of sexy. (D5 ul. Wilcza 42, fb.com/coffeedeskwilcza

Cophi So small you get the idea you could fit Cophi into the palm of your hand, yet no other place in Warsaw is more devoted to sourcing the best coffees in the world.

(D5) ul. Hoża 58/60

Czuły Barbarzyńca na Piwnej A Parisian-style bookstore full of steps and wobbles, nooks and alcoves. All agree there’s something special here: maybe it’s the book selection – varied, esoteric and at once compelling. Or maybe it’s the atmosphere, such that browsers anchor themselves on the sofas to lose an afternoon with their nose in a novel while sipping drip coffee. (E3) ul. Piwna

cultural mainstay. ul. Zwycięzców 49, klubokawiarnia.net

FatWhite_CoffeeBar Attached to a super cool barber shop (tatts, beards, crazy whiskers) Fat White have a beauty of an interior: swan white with walls graced by bookshelves and contemporary art that references Muranów’s past. Coffee comes from Kofi Brand, while sandwiches are made by personal chef / co-owner Filip (that’s his Scooby Doo van outside!). (C1) ul. Andersa 6

Labour Cafe Labour Café’s door crashes open onto a busy space that sets bare raw materials of steel, wood, concrete and brick against lashings of plant life and bursts of poster art. But if the front part is all about catching up with friends and soaking up the vibe over bagels and ‘ethical’ coffee, then outback is where the serious stuff happens – discover a studiously quiet dual-level working space featuring a printer, flipcharts and plentiful light. (E4)

Forum Set through an inconspicuous doorway (look for the Comedy Club sign), Forum opens up as a plain, narrow space with a long counter running down the middle and a smattering of tables occupied by cool-looking designer types. Changing weekly, the big pull is a choice of specialty coffees sourced from roasters such as Berlin’s Five Elephant. Fixed by a team of experts (co-owner Sławek is currently ranked Poland’s second top barista), this is coffee that makes life brew-tiful. (D6) ul.

ul. Tamka 49, labour.pl

Matcha Tea House Renting the space once occupied by the legendary Bastylia, Matcha certainly have a big pair of boots to fill – but fill them they might. Beyond a comprehensive choice of matcha, find also an array desserts that use this green Japanese tea as their cornerstone ingredient. (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17

Kafka Café A chessboard floor and a collection of antlers on the wall characterize Kafka, a bookstore / café whose literary collection is composed of paperbacks rescued from recycling plants. Books are purchased by their weight (zł. 10 per kilo) while the menu includes pancakes, pastas and even doggy treats for your mutt. (E3) ul.

Ministerstwo Kawy Sourcing their coffee from Koppi, an internationally acclaimed Swedish roasting house, the ministry takes no short cuts in their pursuit of excellence.

Utilizing Ethiopian, Costa Rican and Brazilian arabicas – some exclusive to Poland – barista Wojciech Rzytki has earned a reputation across Poland for his expert hand. Rave reviews are standard and appropriate. (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 27,

Dobro & Dobro Cafe Measuring just six square meters (record attendance: 12 customers!), the tiniest cafe in Poland has grown into a cult stopoff for people looking to do something wacky. If you’re into karma, then buy a suspended coffee – order a coffee in advance for a stranger, write a personal message and then hang the cup from a string. (E8) ul. Puławska 11, fb.com/dobrocafe

Oboźna 3, kawiarnia-kafka.pl

ministerstwokawy.pl

Kawiarnia Fabryczna A place to eavesdrop, catch-up on gmail and daydream the morning away, head to this warm den to sink inside comfy retro chairs and soak up the natural light that pours through the window. Prepared on a Nuova Simonelli machine, the coffee hails from a range of pedigree roasters such as Warsaw’s own Coffee Lab. (E3) ul.

Monsieur Leon Found resting on the corner of a quiet residential street, Monsieur Leon is surely one of Mokotów’s best kept secrets. Here, simplicity is the name of the game, with a brief blackboard menu that involves cheese boards, salads and a hefty croque monsieur. (E8) ul. Sulkiewicza 5

EmEsEn Heaving with heavyweight art titles and photo albums, the crowd that gathers in this café/bookstore is suitably leftfield and creative. On the work front, strong wifi and plenty of plugs make this one of the better venues in which to put your nose to the grindstone. Aiding your endeavors is a serious choice of coffee sourced from roasters such as The Barn

Fabryczna 28/30, kawiarniafabryczna.pl

Niezłe Ziółko Café & Deli A shrine to pure and healthy eating, this friendly café doesn’t just brew a great coffee, but bakes its own bread and produces its own yogurt. Sit in the loft to look down on shoppers scurrying to Mokotowska, and on the way out, check out ‘Grandma’s Cupboard’ in the corner: jams, spreads and olive oils are there to buy for home. (D5) ul. Krucza 17

20/26, czuly.pl

from Berlin and Melbourne’s Atomica. (C4) ul. Pańska 3, fb.com/emesen.kawki

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Nowowiejska 1, forum.coffee

KluboKawiarnia Towarzyska With an interior modeled by John Strumiłło, this 50s pavilion has an ascetic design defined by polar white interiors.

Contrast is provided downstairs, with deep magenta walls and retro armchairs.

Concerts, screenings and art happenings have made it into something of local

The Best Of Warsaw!

First born in 1998 as a counter-point to the “bitching, moaning and customary

grumblings” that came as part of the expat deal in post-communist Poland, the Insider’s annual Best of Warsaw awards have emerged to become one of the leading food and drinks events in the country. The city, though, has grown, and so must we, which explains why for the second year running we’ll be publishing an annual edition focusing on the great and the even greater. Due back from the printer at the end of March, look for your copy in selected newsagents, VIP rooms and executive lounges.

KEY JURIED CATEGORIES The Nominees...

Price: zł. 20 ANNUAL EDITION 2018

Fine Dining Atelier Amaro Chłodna 15 Nolita Salto Senses Neo Bistro Ale Wino Bez Tytułu Kieliszki Na Próżnej Plato Rozbrat 20 Casual The Cool Cat Fest Port Czerniakowski Rusiko Talerzyki Vietnamka Chef Michał Gniadek (Plato) Bartoszk Szymczak (Rozbrat 20) Robert Trzópek (Bez Gwiazdek) Sebastian Wełpa (Ale Wino) Arkadiusz Wilamowski (Chłodna 15)

BLAZING STAR

The chef that’s become the talk of the town

REVEALED INSIDE

Warsaw’s top chefs, restaurants, bars, clubs and buzzes as chosen by the Insider and its jury!

PLUS:

Plus: restaurant design, trends to watch, the neon revival and much, much more!

Best of Warsaw issue on sale March 15

Modern Polish Bez Gwiazdek Bistro Pod Sowami Kafe Zielony Niedźwiedź Kieliszki Na Hóżej Mała Polana Smaków

DRINK! Listings Odette Tearoom Taking its lead from their original dessert stop on ul. Górskiego, the sister venue peddles glorious cakes and pralines as well as a hand-picked selection of boutique teas served in a fragrant and elegant atmosphere. (C4) ul. Twarda 4, odette.pl Relaks Expertly prepared, right down to the foam art, the baristas here use the finest imported machines and work only with fair trade, ‘specialty’ coffee. If you have time, the drip coffees are more than worth the wait. The crowded interiors supply a retro accent, and are enjoyed by a fashion aware, laptop-touting crowd. (E9) ul.

Puławska 48

Resort Originally known for their OTT recycling motif (shopping trolleys re-purposed as seats, street signs as tables...), Resort have pared the design down replacing the old junk with a cool, caramel-colored look high on wood, plants and discreet retro accents. Craft beer, eco-friendly bites, clever cocktails and quality coffee contribute to their popularity, as does a busy events program that’s big on comedy and open mic nights. (C2) ul. Bielańska 1

calories and color. For similarly maximalist desserts, check their little sis out (ul. Żurawia 18). ul. Hoża 5/7

Warszawski Lukier Żurawia Nothing reflects millennial food tastes better than the maximalist dessert stops that are sprouting around town. Leading the line are Lukier, a cult venue whose original address (round the corner) made a splash on account of their towering freak shakes. This spot, on the other hand, has gained publicity for its black ice cream that utilizes the global trend for activated charcoal. (D5) ul. Żurawia 18 Wrzenie Świata Those with journalistic leanings love Wrzenie Świata. It’s definitely more Macbook than Moleskine, but this bookstore/café attracts plenty of readers (and writers) to its book-lined interior.

Buzzing like a cafe should, it packs out for slideshows and seminars. (E4) ul.

Gałczyńskiego 7

clubs

no matter their individual back story, everyone gets on (and occasionally gets off). Al. Ujazdowskie 45, klubspatif.pl Luztro Don’t sit down, you won’t know what you might catch. Dark and generally filthy, Warsaw’s most (in)famous club only gets going around about three. As the hours click towards daybreak, the scenes of depravity are like something from Sodom and Gomorrah. Enjoyed by zombies that quite definitely don’t have to be up for work anytime in the next 48 hrs, it’s not just the full-on techno that will leave the brain rattling – you’ll know if it’s your scene. (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, luztro.pl

N58 The latest entry on Warsaw’s club circuit have issued a manifesto promising deep vocal house, r’n’b, mash-ups and theme nights centered around Afro Beats / trap / twerk and hip hop. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58 No Comment A secret world for those In The Know, find No Comment in a seedy-looking tower under Poniatowski Bridge. Clad in decadent, blue velvety surfaces, this tiny bi-level club feels redolent of an afterhours Parisian members club: everyone seems to know each other, and after a bottle of bubbles you will as well. (F4) Al.

Same Fusy Suffused in a candle-lit glow, this 15th century cellar unwinds to reveal a charming brick room suspended in time. Filled with gnarled wooden oddities and tree stump tables, the sweet aroma of fragrant teas helps amplify the fairy tale mood. ul.

Bal If you thought Nowogrodzka was just about grungy craft beer dens then think again. Proving you wrong is Bal, a club that draws a pleasure-seeking party crew of waifish, wasted model-types and assorted hangers-on. Find them twerking away under one of the most interesting lighting arrangements in the city. (F5) ul.

Nowomiejska 10

Nowogrodzka 31, niechzyjebal.pl

Stor Sourcing their coffee from revered roasters such as Berlin’s Bonanza and Stockholm’s Drop Coffee, Stor have grown to become a giant presence on Warsaw’s café map. Visitors bask in natural light amid outbreaks of greenery and quirky design touches: time runs away here and before you know it hours have passed. ul.

Enklawa Forget Tinder, Enklawa is the best pick-up joint around – a classic kitschy, glitzy disco, it draws in huge crowds with a simple lineup of pop and dance hits. Still regarded as the best Wednesday night in Warsaw, it’s the place for singletons looking for a one-night confidence boost.

Ritual Looking dark and sensual, this two-level space unwraps before you like some elaborate adventure. Candles flicker, atmosphere crackles – moving towards the bar, slinky, sultry club creatures of unfathomable beauty prowl past with drinks poised in hand. Heating up gradually as the night progresses, Ritual moves organically from being a voluptuous bar to a spicy club as the night ebbs towards its heady conclusion.

(D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, enklawa.com

(D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, ritualwarsaw.com

Klub Spatif This labyrinthine pre-war tenement comes fitted with vintage trimmings and parquet floors and shakes to a revolving roster of sounds that range from Brit Pop to soul. Their main success though is replicating that fun, spontaneous feel of a house party that’s spiraled out of control:

Room 13 Connected by a series of inter-linking archways, rooms inside this dressy club throb at the weekends with a super sexy crowd letting loose under the vaulted ceilings. Now in their fifth year, it’s become a stalwart of the Mazowiecka scene. (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 13, room13.pl

3 Maja 16/18A, Most Poniatowskiego

Tamka 33, fb.com/storcafe

Warszawski Lukier Looking pretty in pink, there’s a fun and feminine vibe that goes beyond just a quirky design that features rose colored swings. The desserts are hardcore food porn, and include Lukier’s signature freak shakes: towering treats cascading with

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DRINK! Listings Sen Pszczoły Famous, infamous or a bit of both? Moving from their temporary digs in the Koneser Factory, the new-look Sen Pszczoły is every bit as murky as the previous: amid a heavy industrial background, find partygoers enjoying a mixed bag of events that range from didgeridoo performances to full-on techno that makes fillings pop

and rarefied air. Occupying the kind of charismatic gatehouse you’d read about in Dickens, position yourself in front of the upstairs fireplace for a celebratory cigar and a glass of something tall and lovely: the cocktails are in a class of their own and specifically customized for the season. (D2) ul. Wąski Dunaj 20, barandbooks.pl

out. ul. Grochowska 301/305, senpszczoly.pl

Smolna 38 Hated by the selfie mob (guests have to cover their phones with a sticker), rated by everyone else, Smolna’s nights have grown to become legend. Pete Tong, Simian Mobile Disco and Hercules & Love Affair have all played in the past, which says much for the management’s ambition. (E4) ul. Smolna 38, smolna38.com The View Occupying the upper levels of a skyscraper, The View is a place of bubbles and beauties and all things glam. A world class venue, past crowd pullers include Bob Sinclair and David Morales.

In summer, the glam and the gorgeous won’t be seen anywhere but the open air rooftop deck: it’s pure NYC. (C4) ul. Twarda

Bar Wieczorny The cocktails are serious here, with top quality spirits (Vestal, Baczewski, Woodford Reserve) used with equally big name mixes (Fentimans, Big Tom, etc.). Further, you’ll find it’s the right products in the right hands – the staff really know their game. (D8) ul. Wiśniowa 46, barwieczorny.pl Bardziej It’s thanks to places like Bardziej that Oleandrów is becoming one of the most talked about streets around. This splitlevel bar does a good job of capturing the essence of the area, with inventive ‘author’s cocktails’ matched against a warm, dimly lit interior that’s heaving with cogs, metal hooks and enigmatic dials.

The later it gets, the better it is. (E5) ul.

Marszałkowska 21/25 (enter from Oleandrów)

18, theview.pl

cocktails 6 Cocktails If 6 Cocktails has the feeling of hanging around someone’s flat that’s because, actually, you are. This posh Mokotowska apartment has been re-adapted as an exclusive bar frequented by leggy models and society figures: the parties are nuts!

Unmarked from street level, to enjoy the inventive cocktails message them on FB and await your invite. (E5) ul. Mokotowska 57

THE MOST REFRESHINGLY CIVILIZED PLACES TO MEETTM

Podwale Bar & Books Though it doesn’t have to be winter C W to enjoy ≈Podwale Bar & Books, it W C definitely ≈ helps. Seen through frosted, C C foggy windows it’s a venue that reveals ≈ itself Tas≈a place of dark, delicious colors IGARS &

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LOCATION SHOOTS PODWALE BAR AND BOOKS Wąski Dunaj 20, 00-256 Warsaw

Biała Expect highly individualized cocktails, a thoughtful menu and a glam, vamped up crowd every bit as beautiful as the place itself: set in a gloriously white inter-war villa, this is a place that oozes with sex appeal. There aren’t many finer outdoor gardens. ul. Francuska 2, fb.com/ bialazjedziwypij

Charlie Crowd: glam & vampy. The venue: equally so. Occupying the first floor of a pre-war tenement, there’s a magic here that summons the age of F. Scott Fitzgerald – Gatsby would love it. The ace in the pack is a ‘subconscious menu’ from which clients order mystery cocktails based on their scent. (E6) ul. Mokotowska 39 Coctail Bar Max Can you trust a cocktail bar that can’t even spell the word? In this case, yes! Max looks bright, cheerful and fully loaded for the sun, and also comes with a smoking alcove in the back stuffed with whisky and cigars. The cocktails are the main affair though, and here they’re extravagant warsawinsider.pl

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DRINK! Listings efforts that resemble a tropical jungle in miniature form. Very popular with types that aspire to become footballers’ wives, etc. (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, barmax.pl Column Bar Just the look of Column Bar sweeps you off your feet; there’s something breathlessly classy about it, like you’ve just entered Gatsby’s ballroom. You want to order a pyramid of champagne and dance on their piano. Behave, and order a cocktail instead. For a taste of the classics, the Column Bar is pretty peerless.

(D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44 (Hotel Bristol)

Cosmo Bar Though they’ve made a big noise about embracing a variety of initiatives aimed at maximizing sustainability, Tomek Roehr’s Cosmo Bar project, is more than a one-trick pony. Beyond the novelty factor is a scrupulous attention to detail that manifests itself in impeccable cocktails based around Polish produce – rowanberry, sea buckthorn and suchlike. Occupying a plush, little corner of the Cosmopolitan Tower, this is luxury with a conscience. ul.

Twarda 4, cosmobar.pl

Kita Koguta The staff aren’t afraid to get imaginative, and that includes serving cocktails in smoking coconut husks. Not all the experiments go as planned: on our last visit, a basic Bloody Mary was turned into

THE RIVERFRONT

an alcoholic carrot flavored fizz. (E5) ul.

Krucza 6/14

Kiti Bar A raucous bar drawn up by the owners of the nearby Kita Koguta. Dominated by a tall Polynesian totem, this ray of sunshine gets noted for extravagant cocktails served by game staff in zany shirts. (D5) ul. Krucza 6/14

Na Lato Once derided as a hipster haunt, the twits have moved on, replaced instead by an increasingly on-trend crowd of rich young things. The cocktails are without doubt up there with the best in Wa-wa and the basement club area has the added boon of a glassed-in smoking room. (F5) ul.

Rozbrat 44, na-lato.com

Panorama Sky Bar The Marriott’s 40th floor Panorama has had a couple of incarnations: first, as a glitzy Dynasty throwback, and then, more recently, as something that could have passed for a business class airport lounge. Now it’s been reinvented once again, only this time successfully: find slick, vibrant interiors redolent of London matched up with modern cocktails and twinkling views. (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, panoramabar.pl

Pies Czy Suka Monochrome gun metal grey colors are offset by a young crowd attired

Come summer and it’s all about the Wisła. The moment the mercury climbs, a string of bars open on the left bank to create an amorphous blur of drunken din. Not all are equal, and ones to seek out include Barka Wynurzenie, a craft beer barge with street food courtesy of Kukpit. BarKa, with its sail white canopies draws a more vampy crowd, while Cud nad Wisłą is the hedonists choice: a frenetic beach bar that becomes an undulating wall of beats and shrieks. All life gathers here, and you should as well. For something less temporary and completely sophisticated, Winsky promises to come into its element this summer.

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in red shoes, pink trousers and blue headphones. This clean, concrete space is speckled with plaster moldings of reindeer heads, and excels on the cocktail front. Order from an iPad menu, before settling back for cocktails made using mad scientist, molecular techniques that involve foam, vapor, beakers and other things you’d usually find in Professor Yaffle’s lab. Certainly not as ‘mature’ as the new breed of cocktail bars, but definitely more fun. (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8A, piesczysuka.com

The Roots Having recruited some of the top bartenders in Poland, The Roots have a serious artillery on which to rely. So committed is this haunt, its walls are graced by a vast collection of cocktail memorabilia: antique jiggers, shakers, coolers, not to mention an original signed copy of the world’s first cocktail handbook (published: 1862!). (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 11

Weles Named after the Slavic god of the underworld, everything about Weles evokes the spirit of indulgence: a zinc 1920s ceiling imported from the States, a crystal chandelier and a wooden bar carved from a British carousel. A work of refined craftsmanship, the cocktails stand out as the most sophisticated in the city.

(D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 11, welesbar.pl

Woda Ognista Woda Ognista evokes the jazzy air of a Chicago, Prohibition era speakeasy with a seriously stylish interior that includes a colossal collection of vintage cocktail shakers that glint behind glass. The drinks themselves, rattled up by dapper gents in braces and flat caps, are split between house creations and reprised classics from a bygone era. Some are more successful than others, and it’s a credit to the staff that they’re willing to take comments on board and adapt their precious recipes to suit fussy tastes. (E5) ul. Wilcza 8, wodaognista.com

Zamieszanie Cuda Na Kiju have built on their continuing success by adding this spot in the glass block next to their tap pub. Here though it’s cocktails that are the draw.

Pre-bottled in a secret room downstairs, meaning none of the ad-libbed artistry of

DRINK! Listings other cocktail bars, and tastes that are closer in line to 90s alcopop drinks than anything else. That doesn’t stop a young crowd from swamping the place come the weekend. (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 6/12 Zorza Slotted inside what was once Café 6/12, Zorza embellishes the venue’s ascetic PRL style with licks of art deco: it’s an unlikely marriage that manages to work.

Do your pecking, picking, sipping and supping on an outdoor terrace set-up that encourages mingling and interaction. (D4) ul. Żurawia 6/12, zorzabistro.pl

craft beer Artezan Pub The country has crazier breweries for sure, but does it have anyone more consistent than the lads at Artezan. Famed for their Pacific – the quintessential domestic IPA – Artezan’s flagship bar is a standard bearer not just for quality, but for Poland as a whole. (D4) ul. Moniuszki 1A Bistro Warszawski Kapsel Occupying a (very) small corner unit on Tamka, there are some who might better remember this address as the short-lived home of Heritage Birreria Artigianale – an Italian inspired craft beer bar. The beer taps have survived, only now you’ll find them tweaking out artisan brews closer to home. Of the other noteworthy changes, the addition of a TV screen resolutely tuned to any live football has been seen as another major plus. ul. Tamka 9 Chmielarnia A subterranean multi-tap found in the depths of the fishing institute. Artisan beers rule the roost here (there’s 15 taps and stacks more beer in the fridge), a point underlined by a glass coffin of mainstream macro lager. While the bar gets loud and rackety, sweaty and sticky, that’s balanced out by a rotating beer offer that’s moderately priced plus a friendly, earnest audience that’s all beer geeks and know-it-alls. (B5) ul. Twarda 42 (basement level), chmielarnia.waw.pl

Chmielarnia Marszałkowska With Warsaw’s tap bars all falling over each other to stock the latest tap beers,

your options are frequently similar from bar to bar – which is when a good fridge becomes important. Not only can you actually see into Chmielarnia’s, you’ll find it housing the most exciting brews trending around the globe: from the edgy Bermondsey breweries to the Scandinavian giants. Broaden your horizons! (E7) ul.

Marszałkowska 10/16, chmielarnia.waw.pl

Chmielołak Bis All the hallmarks of the quintessential neighborhood bar are here – that said, seeing they don’t even have a bar (just a line of taps and a barmaid standing in front of them), maybe calling it a bar in the traditional sense takes a jump of the imagination. Regardless, there’s something about this place that’s special: a cute wooden-decked garden aside, reasons to visit include ten taps, a snug, secret basement and a sense of something warm, neighborly and pleasingly engaging. ul. Walecznych 68A

laidback, neighborhood atmosphere is making it increasingly popular with a tight-knit circle of ex-pat drinkers. (C3) ul. Grzybowska 2 (through the side passage), czesc.waw.pl

Czeska Baszta Contained within a grotty bridge support, divey Czeska is permanently immersed in a foggy, yellow glow. Boisterous but extremely friendly, there’s a reason for all the man hugs and back slaps: everyone’s smashed! The frothy pints of lager are

Craft Beer Muranów Though still an area thick with beretwearing, dachshund-walking oldies, Muranów is fast catching up with the rest of Warsaw. Taking care of the craft beer angle is this newbie, a bi-level bar with warm tones and 16 taps of beery goodness. ul. Andersa 23, fb.com/craftbeermuranow

Cuda Na Kiju Where it all began. Summer catches Warsaw’s original tap bar at its best, with the courtyard of the former Communist Party HQ now home to an entirely different kind of party: on occasions find food trucks and film screenings, and all other times just a massive crowd getting sloshed on 15 types of tap beer. But even outside the sweaty months Cuda is worth the visit: drink inside a modern, glass cube that’s refreshing contemporary. (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, cudanakiju.pl

10%

Cześć It started as a café, but now Cześć is better known as being at the forefront of the new generation of ‘quali-tap’ bars – small little places with six or so beers on tap. The two owners, Piotrek and Kuba, take their beer seriously, so do expect plenty of new finds as well as traditional favorites from stalwarts like the Artezan and Pinta breweries. The warsawinsider.pl

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DRINK! Listings sourced from the owner’s favorite small town breweries, and the fridge kept stocked courtesy of his own cross-border forays. (E4) Tower 22A, Most Poniatowskiego, czeskabaszta.pl

Drugie Dno To plug into the pounding heart of Warsaw’s craft beer scene, look no further than Nowogrodzka. Joining the ranks of the street’s multi-tap bars is Drugie Dno, a three-level space that’s been themed to evoke the look of a disused power station.

Sporting rugged brickwork and a scuffed style, the industrialized look has been amped up to the max through the use of steel girders, vintage voltage meters and toilets disguised as elevator shafts. (D5) ul.

Nowogrodzka 4

Jabeerwocky Steeped in multinational drunken babble, the super sociable Jabbers is famed for its innovative beer selection and convivial atmosphere. Mark it down as an absolute must-visit, especially if you’re a fan of stout and cider. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 12, taproom.pl

Kufle i Kapsle Interiors are balanced with the pre-war heritage of the place, and are thick with noise, clamor and the smell of spillage.

Found somewhere towards the top of the national hierarchy of craft beer bars, Kufle welcomes all, from entry level novices to note-taking beer nerds. The male to female ratio is somewhere near equal, which in itself feels pretty unique. (D5) ul.

Nowogrodzka 25, kufleikapsle.pl

Eufemia Even in a country that prides itself on deceptive addresses, Eufemia outdoes them all by suggesting gig-goers head to Krakowskie Przedmieście. Actually, you need ul. Traugutta, and from there to search out the salmon pink palace that’s entered via Niżyńskiego. Obvious, huh? Slipped down some narrow steps, Eufemia unwraps into a series of side rooms furbished in simple style with occasional flourishes provided by the local art school. Drinks come from 12 taps squirting out Polish craft beer, while food is a welcome affair involving pulled pork burgers, pastrami and even vegan curry.

(D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 5 Goraczka Zlota Get down with the locals at Gorączka Złota, a steamy pub with a rowdy atmosphere. Touting the dimensions of a cabin boy’s quarters, this pungent, pokey den is one of the oldest bars in town.

Despite carrying many epic beers from Poland’s rebel brewers, there’s nothing faddish about GZ and it’s this sense of normalcy that lends it its enduring appeal.

hoppiness.ontap.pl

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Szeroki Dunaj 11

Mikkeller Bar Warsaw Light and bright the sparsity of the interior is a surprise: a classic case of less is more, here the punchline is given to the beer. That means twenty taps firing out a revolving roster of kickass beers that, thus far, have included lambic-style ‘SpontanPear’ and yuzu flavored Berliner weisse. It’s an utter geek-gasm for beer nerds. Prices for the Danish stuff start in the early 20s and soar upwards from there – in return, you’re getting brilliant beer that breaks brewing boundaries.

For cheapskates, Polish options kicks-off at approx. 13 PLN. (D4) ul. Chmielna 7/9, fb.com/MikkellerBarWarsaw

Kufle i Kapsle Żoliborz While Nowogrodzka is the beating heart of the tap bar trend, not even the suburbs are safe from this flourishing movement. By expanding out to Żoliborz, Kufle i Kapsle have cornered a captive market. There’s just seven taps here, but they’re a magnificent seven – find a great representation of Polish craft draught, not to mention a satisfying selection of international bottles. The moderate size works it in its favor, lending it a neighborly atmosphere which sees first-timers quickly converted into returning regulars. ul. Popiełuszki 19/21, kufleikapsle.pl

Małe Piwo Oleandrów’s reawakening began on this very spot! Opened six years back, MP preempted the craft beer trend to become one of Warsaw’s first places for something better than a pint of Piss-kie.

Looking wholly unfinished and fashionably distressed, it’s got that New York dive vibe down to a tee – you imagine The Strokes rolling in right after band practice.

(D7) ul. Oleandrów 4

(D5) ul. Wilcza 29, goraczka-zlota.com.pl

Hoppiness You’re in good hands here – opened under the patronage of the Pracownia brewery, this small-scale operation goes beyond merely offering the beers of its sponsor.

There’s 12 taps in all, a decent fridge to geek over, an ace burger and beer-based ice cream – hooray! (D4) ul. Chmielna 27/31,

steads, the kitchen wing of Maryensztadt does a convincing job of representing the tastier side of regional Poland. (D1) ul.

Maryensztadt Craft Beer It’s a mixed crowd of locals and tourists that gather in Maryensztadt, a large bar whose 12 taps showcase the highs (and occasional lows) produced by the brewery that gives this pub its name. Set across a series of cavernous chambers inside an attractive Old Town property, its not just beer buffs that it appeals to: sourcing their ingredients from small-scale farm-

Piw Paw We don’t like: the sweaty toilet, strange smells nor the scrum at the bar. We do like: the 24hr opening hours, humongous fridge and 50+ taps. Seen in the light it’s a little depressing, so visit at night when Parkingowa takes on the look of an endof-term street party. (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34 (enter from ul. Parkingowa), piwpaw.pl

Same Krafty Occupying two narrow, rugged rooms, Same Krafty have rescued Old Town from big beer brands peddling piss. Offering artisan alternatives, this intimate bar has become a magnet for those looking to explore the more subversive side of Polish brewing. (D1) ul. Nowomiejska 10, samekrafty.pl

Same Krafty Vis-à-vis You wouldn’t have thought it a year back, but reasons keep emerging to drink in the Old Town. When it comes to pubs, Same Krafty top the list, but try getting served at peak drinking time. So here’s some brilliant news: they’ve now opened another bar opposite. Pass under a dragon’s head before stepping into a supremely friendly room with ten taps, a strong bottle line-up and an atmospheric side chamber. (D1) ul.

Nowomiejska 11/13, samekrafty.pl

Spiskowcy Rozkoszy The ground floor is an intimate space with lots of yet-to-be-famous beers and junky, antique furniture that reminds of the

DRINK! Listings Boho hangouts in Kraków. But what was a packed, little bar is now a packed, big bar with the opening of the basement: find a labyrinth of rooms and psychedelic toilets with pulsating lights – you soon wonder who spiked your drink. And oh, the drinks.

Expect IPA and APA beers served from the six taps. (D5) ul. Żurawia 47/49, spiskowcy.pl

nature of it generate an electrifying atmosphere where the audience and band become one. Walking a fine line between industrial and straight out decrepit, the atmosphere is second to none: drinks flow, strangers meet and music smashes out: you can feel something special happening here. ul. 11 Listopada 22, hydrozagadka.waw.pl

The Taps No longer a niche movement, the opening of The Taps is another sign of craft beers mainstream market penetration. Set on the once super trendy Sienkiewicza, hopes are high that the opening of this three-floor drinking den could yet revive the fortunes of this street. Appealing to a young, pre-club crowd, the industrial / loft-style décor feels rather contrived and a little too polished. ul. Sienkiewicza 4 Warzą się Losy “Nowhere in Warsaw,” boasts the barman, “has more beer taps per square meter.”

Despite its diminutive footprint, WsL punches above its weight with eight taps turning out new generation Polish beer.

Decked out like an anechoic chamber, the combination of good beer and mouse hole dimensions mean that it doesn’t take long for conversations to crossover with the scattering of strangers at the bar. Soon enough everyone’s drinking together and toasting the night. (D7) ul. Oleandrów 3

for gentlemen

vodka TRY OUR BUBBLE-waffles Dom Wódki Those expecting Dom Wódki to be a standard mucky shot bar are in for a surprise. Sparkling with over 250 artisanal vodkas, find them incorporated into inspirational drinks mixed by Tomasz Małek, a world champion flair bartender. More than just show, the tastes are incredible. (C2) ul. Wierzbowa

Playhouse Housed in a former subterranean bomb shelter, the talk now is of bombshells: namely the 57 stunners they’ve got listed on their books. Inspired by high class joints in London and Vegas, it’s a refined choice with a no-pressure atmosphere and door staff that don’t look like they’re going to kick your head in. (B3) Al.

9/11, domwodki.pl

Solidarności 82A, playhouse.pl

Parkingowa 5

live music

Pijalnia Havoc reigns in Pijalnia, and watching all the tears and tiffs on a Friday night is something of a spectator sport. Pickles and vodka are the essential order, while reading matter is supplied via commieera sports reports that are plastered to the wall. many locations, fb.com/pijalnia.

Hydrozagadka Set out in the wildlands of Praga, consider Hydrozagadka as the heart of unforced cool. Known for its alternative music scene, the low-ceiling and tight, crowded

Klub Pogłos Arguably Warsaw’s No. 1 venue for alternative music, Pogłos checks all the requisite boxes: a divey, gritty look, a liberal atmosphere and an army of fans willing and eager to embrace the seamier side of night. The packed program of events runs from spoken word performances and vegan BBQs, to sweaty tribute concerts celebrating The Smiths. At other times, you’ll be listening to touring Berlin-based bands, hardcore DJs or psychedelic soul from the likes of King Khan And The Shrines. If it’s weird, it’s on. ul. Burakowska 12, fb.com/klubpoglos

Pyk i Łyk Thundering through a flimsy door, customers are met by a tiny, divey area that’s devoid of furnishings aside from shelves of vodka and a bar that’s been painted to depict dripping blood. Yikes!

Decorated with bizarre montages of hard drinking rockers, once visitors settle into their vodka rhythm, it reveals itself as a bar of greatness. “No wi-fi,” shouts one sign, “talk to each other and get drunk.”

It’s that kind of place. (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 26

Meta Chains of old bog paper, Karol Gott album covers and other Communist keepsakes litter this shot bar. But for a real blast to the past, visit their Parkingowa venue for a full-on, Polski-style retro disco. It’s hilarious. ul. Mazowiecka 11 / Foksal 21 /

WITH HOME MADE ARTISAN GELATO. Nowogrodzka 15 Al. Jana Pawła II 43/25 Francuska 48 Hala Koszyki tel. 509 912 282 www.melody.pl

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DRINK! Listings wine bars Ale Wino!

Without doubt, peak time is the summer when drinkers congregate on a courtyard deck shielded by a sail. But winter ain’t so bad either with this covert wine bar unraveling to reveal a series of little chambers. The wine choice is comprehensive and it’s ably supported by some of the best cooking in the city: chef Sebastian Wełpa is one of Warsaw’s great, golden talents.(E5) ul. Mokotowska 48, alewino.pl Bubbles Such is the style of Bubbles it feels like Valentine’s all year round: high on intimacy, it’s a charming ensemble of rickety crates and deep, dark colors.

But the clincher, that’s the prodigious selection of champagne. Now while you’d usually expect a champagne bar to be filled with footballers wives and berks with fake tans, Bubbles feels inclusive, convivial and anything but vain. (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, bubbles.com.pl

Dekant Wine Bar Set inside an attractive open space, the opening of Dekant is a further indication of Powiśle’s shift from hipster epicenter to upscale playground (Robert Lewandowski has been spotted here!). The list comprises over 400 wines from the most prestigious producers in the world, right the way down to tiny, little vineyards you’ve probably never heard of. If the sun is out, aim for a place on their back terrace. (E3) ul. Zajęcza 15, dekant.com.pl Dyletanci Often filled to capacity with crisp, modern citizens that radiate confidence, join them on green banquettes illuminated with Tom Dixon lamps. The wine list is fitting of the A-list, and aside from exceptional international choices, also includes interesting wines from the proprietor’s own label – a frankly superb Polish brand called Dom Bliskowice. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44, dyletanci.pl

Hoża You’ll probably know Hoża as the home of steak. But what is meat without wine? complementing the Argentine-inspired cooking is a wine list particularly dense with reds. (D5) ul. Hoża 25a, hoza.warszawa.pl

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Kieliszki Na Hożej Already celebrated for their operation on Próżna, this latest branch continues in much the same vein: classy interiors, a prime location on one of Warsaw’s few surviving pre-war streets and a casual bistro vibe matched up against a glorious Italian influenced wine list. The concise food menu connects local Polish to classic French and adds an interesting modern twist. ul. Hoża 41, kieliszkinahozej.pl Mielżyński Wine Bar Robert Mielżyński, a Canadian-born oenologist, awakened Warsaw’s love affair with the grape when he launched Mielżyński in 2004, and it continues to serve as the accepted benchmark to which all wine bars aspire. Their cause is amply boosted by a fine selection of bites to accompany the superlative wine offer. Find it in a pared down warehouse that emanates casual city cool. (A1) ul.

Burakowska 5/7, mielzynski.pl

Mielzynski Wine Bar After three years in the pipeline Warsaw’s second outpost of Mielżyński is everything you’d expect: the concise menu is never too complex while the exciting wine choice presents over 500 labels. This vibrant warehouse-style space promises much. (G9) ul. Czerska 12, mielzynski.pl Nowina The striking interior that catches the eye from across the street – restored pre-war tiling, glinting surfaces, a world map rendered from corks and an engaging reddish glow all do their bit to lend Nowina the kind of atmosphere that’s missing in most local wine bars. Add to that an exciting international menu and a selection of over 400 wines and you have an absolute winner. ul. Nowogrodzka 4 Pani Wina The underlying problem with Warsaw’s wine bars is that too many feel like places of business: anonymous venues filled with suits striking deals. Then, on the other hand, there’s Pani Wina, a place whose design (olive walls, parquet floors, mustard-tinted seating) maximizes the ambiance of this narrow, little nook. That the concise range of tap wines is supplemented by an equally welcome choice of renegade cocktails makes it all the better.

(E5) ul. Wilcza 11, fb.com/PaniWina

Rusiko Wine Bar Designed to act as a casual extension of the neighboring Rusiko restaurant, this wine bar showcases Warsaw’s biggest selection of Georgian wine inside an interior that feels intimate, jazzy and highly atmospheric. Elaborate rugs, deep rouge in color, hang from tall sapphire walls, while impossibly high ceilings do much to generate a swirl of soft, muffled sound. A place of good mood and organic hospitality, it’s no surprise to learn that the bitey menu is an ample reflection of Rusiko’s award-winning reputation. (E5) Al. Ujazdowskie 22, fb.com/winebarrusiko

WinKolekcja The selection of New World wines is exceptional, though classicists are also catered for via an extensive choice of Spanish, French and Italian wines. Their highly recommended restaurant provides further reason to linger inside a design that has the routine look of a club class lounge. (E10) ul. Olkuska 7, winkolekcja.pl Winosfera Once a pre-war cinema, now a stunning wine bar / store with one of the most impressive collections in Poland: an expense account comes in handy. Equally notable is the ambitious fine dining menu of Jakub Adamczyk. (B3) ul. Chłodna 31 Winsky One of the strongest openings in recent months (on second thoughts, make that the strongest opening in recent months) presents a menu of itsty, teeny plates, a maverick selection of tap wines, top notch whisky, and an interior that’s all restrained velvety opulence. And then there’s the backdrop – nestled on the ground floor of The Tides development, windows face out onto the inky black waters of the river and the sparkling stadium just beyond. (F4) ul. Wioślarska 10 Żurawina This large white room gets criticized for its jarring artwork and staffing blips – in the world of wine it’s important the customer can connect to the staff: here, we felt like we were joining the SS. But both food and wine score highly, and they’ve earned a staunchly loyal following that includes high flying types and Paris Hilton wannabes that carry yappy dogs in their bag. (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34

DO!

BOING, BOING! Add a spring to your summer at Warsaw’s largest amusement park, Stacja Grawitacja, a quite awesome assembly of things that go bounce. Spread across an area of 3,200 sq/m, visitors – both large and small – have the opportunity to jump on a giant airbag, complete a ninja obstacle course or dunk basket hoops with the aid of trampolines. Beyond that, hang out – quite literally – at the only year-round rope park in Poland, or go climbing on walls aimed at all ages and skill levels. Now though, there’s an added incentive to visit, that being Happy Climb, a special new zone aimed at the youngest of climbers. Featuring 13 climbing routes, crafty hurdles to conquer and an eight-meter slide, it’s just about the most unique family attraction found in the city. And if there’s a birthday coming up, then treat the munchkins to an organized party that features supervising instructors and culminates with cake…

Stacja Grawitacja Al. Bohaterów Września 12, stacjagrawitacja.pl

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DO! Events

Chasing Rainbows

Dubbed ‘the happiest 5k in the world’, the Color Run is a pioneering ‘paint race’ loosely inspired by Disney’s World of Color and the Hindu Festival of Colors. Starting at the National Stadium, the untimed run sees participants passing through

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various ‘music and color zones’ in which entrants can expect to be pelted by nontoxic powders in a myriad of dazzling colors. First held in Warsaw in 2015, the event has become a sparkly tonic to the city’s more somber races.

The Color Run 17 June thecolorrun.pl

Tickets are priced from zł. 45 to zł. 141 (VIP package), with starter sets including T-shirts, color packs, transferable tatts and a medal. Closing the event will be a music concert open only to registered runners.

PRESS MATERIAL

Wa r s a w ’ s h a p p i e s t r u n r e t u r n s i n a b a n g o f c o l o r…

DO! Events

Equal To The Occasion

O n c e m o r e t h i s s u m m e r, c e n t ra l Wa r s a w w i l l g r i n d t o a s t a n d s t i l l a s t h e E q u a l i t y Pa ra d e s n a k e s i t s w a y t h r o u g h t h e s t r e e t s o f t h e c a p i t a l …

DON’T MISS!

Equality Town: “If you’re curious about Polish society or our struggles visit Equality Town,” says Maciocha. “There’ll be more than 40 NGO’s eager to explain what they’re doing and how they’re fighting for equal rights in Poland.”

Equality Parade: “Three hours full of color, joy and love! There’ll be amazing energy with 14 floats featuring different music and more than 40 groups with different signs. See them all!”

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Palace of Culture and Science

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irst held in 2001, the Equality Parade has survived numerous political obstacles to grow into one of the largest annual parades held in Poland. “It’s growing bigger with each year,” says Julia

Maciocha, chairwoman of the Volunteers of Equality Foundation, “and what’s really encouraging is that so many young people have joined the preparation process – they want their voices to be heard and for me, that’s super cool!”

From the outset, the founders sought to make the march more than just a gay / lesbian event, a point that’s now never been clearer. “My goal was to include more groups,” says Maciocha, “so I’m really happy that more and more minorities are joining us and realizing that it’s their celebration as well.

Beyond that, we’ve ten or so massive companies walking alongside us – Google, Microsoft, IBM, etc. – and the fact that they’ll be there will hopefully open the parade even more to the mainstream public.”

Open-air Concert: “Entrance is free, so no matter what your economic status is, come and celebrate with us!”

The Afterparty: “We’ll have three stages with different music in Metropolis Warsaw and Jasna 1, with all the money raised going to the next Equality Parade.” Yet while the fun aspect is well documented, Maciocha is keen to stress the underlining point. “The Equality Parade is quite unusual for Europe,” she adds. “It’s not just a party, it’s a political march that’s fighting for rights, and not just those of the LGBTQIA community.”

Equality Parade June 9 paradarownosci.eu

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DO! Events 26th International Poster Biennale in Warsaw / Poland Academy of Fine Arts in Warsaw (Open Academy 9-13/06.2018)

09/06-15/07.2018 Exhibitions / Workshops Conference / Networking

instagram: ipb.warsaw www.warsawposterbiennale.com

WI: What are you judges looking for when viewing posters?

JC: When assessing a poster they consider the topic, the modernity of its approach and the manner of expression. The graphic form in itself might be a novelty, just as much as the topic of the poster itself. Our jury consists of artists and art theorists of varying philosophy and personality, so the final verdicts are usually a bit of a surprise.

A Fine Art

Justyna Czerniakowska of the Academy of Fine Arts in Wa r s a w t a l k s a b o u t t h e I n t e r n a t i o n a l P o s t e r B i e n n a l e that kicks-off this June…

WI: Globally speaking, this is the oldest event of its kind – how have things changed since the first Biennale in 1966?

JC: One perennial feature is that poster art has maintained its popularity; artists are eager to design them, while the public are equally keen to view them.

That hasn’t been subject to change. What has, however, has been the world itself, and 94

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that’s reflected in the art of poster design, as poster in itself is, above all, a transcript of place and time: it provides a visual commentary on social change, cultural and artistic events, protests, and affirmations. This year, some of the best international artists working in this field have been invited to take part, so it’s safe to say that the Biennale will present the modern world in a nutshell.

International Poster Biennale 9 June till 15 July Warsaw Academy of Fine Arts ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 5 warsawposterbiennale.com The opening event takes place at 6 p.m. and gives visitors the opportunity to mix and mingle with many of the artists themselves. The following day, on June 10th, kids are invited to design their own posters at a workshop that will be conducted between 11 a.m. and 1 p.m..

P R E S S M AT E R I A L

Organizatorzy

WI: Why do the public remain so fascinated with posters?

JC: They’re simply a fascinating dimension of art as they’re so much more ‘democratic’ than so-called museum art. Posters seduce people and are understandable; more so, they have a universal visual language which reaches audiences outside of linguistic realms.

Posters are visually attractive, and that’s their fundamental magic.

DO! Events

12 June @ COS Torwar, ul. Łazienkowska 6A Imagine this: Alice Cooper, Joe Perry and Johnny Depp performing a string of rock’n’roll hits bang in front of your eyes. You’re not dreaming, it’s actually bloody well happening! Supporting them will be American rap-rockers the Hollywood Undead. Tickets from zł. 129 @ livenation.pl

Street Art Festival

23 June to 1 July @ various locations Some of Europe’s top ‘street theater’ groups will be doing their thing on the streets of Warsaw, with performances planned for a diverse bunch of locations that range from New Town Square and Pl. Defilad to Metro Słodowiec.

For details, see: sztukaulicy.pl

Orange Warsaw Festival

1-2 June @ Służewiec, ul. Puławska 266 Warsaw’s biggest music festival includes sets from Sam Smith, Florence + The Machine, Taco Hemingway and Mela Koteluk.

Final call tickets from zł. 249 @ orangewarsawfestival.pl

Asian Food Festival

3 June @ National Stadium,

ul. Poniatowskiego 1 Running from noon, expect Poland’s largest Asian culinary fest to present an array of food trucks, stands and stalls. Coinciding with Children’s Day, there’ll also be karaoke, dance workshops, magic shows and much more besides.

Haim

7 June @ Stodoła, ul. Batorego 19 This trio of sisters have charmed the critics with their unique sound. So says Noisey magazine: “listening to them is like smoking a blunt on someone’s front porch when the sun begins to dip and turns everything pastel-colored.” Tickets from zł. 64 @ livenation.pl

claimed as the first festival of its kind in Poland. Tickets zł.

69 @ ticketclub.pl

them will be free concerts from domestic stars such as Bajm and W&W.

Wianki

Beyonce & Jaz-Z

23 June @ Multimedia Fountain Park, Skwer Dywizji 1 Expect tens of thousands of people – and probably more – to head down to the fountains to celebrate the ancient festival of Wianki. Aiding

30 June @ National Stadium, ul. Poniatowskiego 1 No need to introduce this pair, surely? They’re in Warsaw as part of the OTR II, a global tour spanning 48 countries. Tickets from zł. 82 @ livenation.pl

12—15.06.2018

Marilyn Manson

13 June @ COS Torwar, ul. Łazienkowska 6A He’s baaack! Seventeen years after his first trip to Poland, the freakiest act in rock returns to perform his greatest hits plus material from his latest album, Heaven Upside Down. Tickets from zł. 169 @ livenation.pl

Home Brew Festival

16 June @ Babka, ul. Młocińska 5/7 Over 50 home brewers will present the fruit of their labors in what’s being

CREATIVE CITIES AND INDUSTRIES CONFERENCE CONGRESS

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FESTIVAL

STREAMING ONLINE

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SOCIAL MEDIA BACKCHANNELING www.krakowice.com

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The Hollywood Vampires

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DO! Museums

F RY D E RY K C H O P I N M U S E U M

Car Museum From Lech Wałesa’s Volvo to Gomułka’s ZIS limo, from German wartime armor to a pretty-in-pink Buick Skylark: incredible in its peculiarity, the random layout, oily smells and cobwebbed corners only add to the sense of treading somewhere special. ul. Warszawska 21 (Otrębusy), muzuem-motorzyacji.com.pl

Copernicus Science Centre Featuring hundreds of interactive exhibitions, it’s a place that allows young and old alike to blast objects into space, experience an earthquake or steer exploratory robots. ul.

Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, kopernik.org.pl

CSW Situated in a baroque-style castle the center hosts artists from all over the world.

The on-site bookshop is of particular interest for artists and intellectuals. ul. Jazdów 2, csw.art.pl

Dom Spotkań z Historią The History Meeting House wins points for small but frequently excellent exhibitions that cover topics such as ‘rebuilding Warsaw’ and

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‘Socialist Realist architecture.’

K AT Y Ń M U S E U M

ul. Okólnik 1, chopin.museum

ul. Karowa 20, dsh.waw.pl

Ethnographic Museum Considerably revamped to meet the demands and attention-spans of the 21st century sightseer, the Ethnographic Museum is a visual pleasure that showcases colorful costumes, fabrics and ceramics from Poland and beyond. ul. Kredytowa 1,

The Heritage Interpretation Center This small venue tells the complex story of Old Town’s reconstruction: if the first section about Warsaw’s physical elimination is poignant, then the others do a fabulous job of sharing the optimism and alacrity that followed. ul.

Brzozowa 11-13, mhw.pl

ethnomuseum.pl

Fotoplastikon Thought to date from 1905, Warsaw’s Fotoplastikon generates 3D perspectives from a set of 2D images: visitors peer through an eyepiece and are taken on a trip around the world while music from days yore parps away in the background. Al. Jerozolimskie 51, fotoplastikonwarszawski.pl

Fryderyk Chopin Museum The 18th century Ostrogski Palace is the perfect foil for the ultra-modern content of this multi-sensory space. The personal items are enchanting, but the big victory here is the museum’s ability to suck visitors right back into the times of Chopin through the use of interactive sights and sounds.

Invisible Exhibition Head to the Invisible Exhibition to learn first-hand the challenges faced by the blind.

This includes everything from crossing the road to ordering a drink in a bar. Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, niewidzialna.pl

Jewish Historical Institute Officially opened in 1947 the Jewish Historical Institute was created to serve as an archive of Jewish culture in Warsaw. It contains artwork, historical artifacts and important documents from the city’s rich Jewish past. ul.

spring of 1940. Beyond its quite staggering architectural merit, the museum has done a stunning job of collecting and presenting artifacts relating to the slaughter. ul. Jeziorańskiego 4, muzeumkatynskie.pl

Marie Skłodowska-Curie Musuem Reopened after a significant re-haul, this museum celebrates the groundbreaking scientist that discovered polonium. The Curie-osities include lab equipment, her trademark black dress and even her nail file. ul. Freta 16, en.muzeum-msc.pl

Museum of Communist Life Lovingly assembled by its young owner, the museum is split into a few different sections: one devoted to state and subversive literature, and another that recreates an empty store typical of the times. Our highlight, though, is the recreation of a commie-era apartment. ul.

Tłomackie 3/5, jhi.pl

Glucha (opposite Soho Factory), adventurewarsaw.com

Katyń Museum This museum commemorates the murder of 21,000 Polish officers by the Soviets in the

Museum of Praga The Praga Museum tells the story of the area with such charm and simplicity that it

informacje i bilety: www.adamiakjazz.pl Projek t wspó ł finansuje m.st. Warszawa

Dofinansowano ze środków Ministra Kultur y i Dziedzic t wa Narodowego

Par tnerz y

Patroni medialni

DO! Museums

POLIN

manages to leave an unlikely impression that’s as punchy as that of the big institutions.

Star billing goes to a restored Jewish prayer room and the Flying Carpet: an exhibit festooned with various trinkets and treasures once available for purchase from local pavement traders. ul. Targowa 50/52, muzeumwarszawy.pl

Museum of Warsaw Over 8,000 objects detail the story of Warsaw, and these include peculiar souvenirs, scale models, old postcards and recovered works of art.

Cohesive and comprehensive yet never too overwhelming, the trail climaxes with vertiginous views of the Rynek below. Unmissable.

ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org

Palmiry National Memorial Museum An excellent multimedia exhibition set next to a cemetery holding the graves of 1,700 Poles executed in the first years of Nazi occupation.

The museum tells their forgotten story as well as that of the siege and subsequent occupation of Warsaw. Palmiry, palmiry.mhw.pl

National Museum Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars. Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.

Pawiak What was once a Tsarist prison assumed a doubly sinister function under the Nazis. Some 100,000 Polish political prisoners were held here, 37,000 of which were executed on-site. Split in two sections, cells are found on one side, while on the other the full story of the invasion and occupation. ul. Dzielna

art.pl

24/26

The Neon Museum Filled with salvaged signage,

Polin Composed of eight galleries,

Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42, muzeumwarszawy.pl

this museum houses several dozen neons that once lit up the capital. The emphasis is firmly on the PRL era, a time when the nation’s best graphic designers were nutty for neon.

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M U S E U M O F WA R S AW

each covers a different stage of local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day. Highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec synagogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical inter-war Jewish Warsaw street. Named the European Museum of the Year in 2016. ul. Anielewicza

the 1944 Uprising in town.

Exhibits range from a full-size replica of a Liberator plane, to a sewer beneath the cinema screen and a slice of bread preserved from 1944.

And don’t miss the ‘City of Ruins’, a five minute 3D film which takes you on an aerial journey over devastated Warsaw. ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl

6, polin.pl

The Royal Castle in Warsaw Highlights include the lavishly restored 18th century royal apartments with 22 paintings

by Canaletto, the Senators’ Chamber in which the Constitution of the Third of May was signed, the biggest collection of oriental rugs in Europe and two remarkable Rembrandt paintings. Pl. Zamkowy 4, zamek-krolewski.pl

The Warsaw Amber Museum Part of Bursztynek, a dedicated amber shop, has been turned into a curious museum detailing the history of amber. Rynek Starego Miasta 4/6, bursztynek.co

Warsaw Rising Museum Cope with the crowds to discover the definitive story of

Wola Museum What was once a dreary old place has been rebooted as a smart community-minded museum and one of the most forward-thinking institutions in the capital. Bringing the wider area of Wola alive, find engaging content that’s creatively presented: posters, family memorabilia and various media relating to the area. ul. Srebrna 12, mhw.pl Zachęta National Art Gallery Regarded as one of Poland’s most prestigious galleries, the Zachęta has a busy program of temporary exhibitions that frequently showcase some of the biggest names in domestic and international contemporary art. Pl. Małachowskiego 3, zacheta.art.pl

DO! Education preschools American School of Warsaw American School of Warsaw provides a rich, meaningful and balanced educational experience through age-appropriate activities to students aged 3 to 5. For further information

and/or to visit our school, contact:admissions@aswarsaw.org or 22 ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel.

22 702 85 00, aswarsaw.org 702

85 00.

The British Primary School of Wilanรณw Following the National Curriculum of

England and Wales, this is the first School in Poland subject to the inspection of the UK Independent School Inspectorate. Pupils receive British and, upon request, Polish reports/ diplomas. The school follows a closed admissions policy and limits enrollment of one nationality to below 50% of each class starting from Year 1. ul. Hlonda 12, bsww.pl

Summer School Join us!

Casa dei Bambini Warsaw Montessori School invites all children for a special summer program from July 2nd to August 3rd:

English speaking environment Montessori curriculum Field trips Special visitors Art Cooking Gardening Animals Nature and much more!

The British School Early Years Centre The British School provides EYFS classes from Pre-nursery (age 30 months) to Reception (5 years old). Children develop quickly and their Early Years practitioners aim to do all they can to help your child have the best possible start in life and become a lifelong learner. ul. Dฤ browskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646 7777 , thebritishschool.pl

The Canadian School of Warsaw Preschool Welcoming students from the ages of 2.5 to 6 years old, currently 45% of their admissions are international students. The dedicated, IB-trained teachers deliver an innovative program (PYP) in English designed for modern world needs. The program offers a combination of Literacy, Maths, Social Studies, Science, Physical Education, Art, Music & Rhythmics, French and Polish classes. ul.

Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, canadian-school.pl

warsaw montessori family

Accepting applications for children from To join our summer program please 2-5 (Casa program) and 6-12 (Elementary contact: tel. +48 692 099 134 program) office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl Location: Casa dei Bambini, Badowska 19 (behind building Sielecka 52)

www.wmf.edu.pl

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations) Warsaw Montessori School Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have three green and harmonious locations in Mokotรณw and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in earlychildhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotรณw), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16

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DO! Education (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob.

692 099 134, warsawmontessori. edu.pl

International School of Warsaw The ISW offers education for children aged from 3 to 18-years-old. The school campus is set amid picturesque countryside near Piaseczno and provides a holistic education that combines a high quality curriculum based on the International Baccalaureate program with extra scholarly activities such as outdoor classes, robotics or STEAM. Lessons are conducted in English or French as the main language.

The ISW is the only school in Poland accredited by the

European Union. ul. Mazowiecka 43, www.isw.edu.pl

International Trilingual School of Warsaw Established in 1994, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fillimmersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25,

tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/ saint-exupery.pl

The English Playhouse The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów.

The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old.

For more info or to arrange a tour call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email: jnowak@theenglishplayhouse. com ul. Pływiańska 14a, tel. 22 843 9370, tep.edu.pl

Happy Montessori House The Happy Montessori House

offers part-time and full-time places for children aged between 2 to 6 years, as well as toddler-focused activities (from 18 months to 3 years) centered around movement, sensorial stimulation, storytelling, singing and socializing.

Warsaw Montessori Pre-school, ul. Rumiana 14, tel. 22 423 50 75, mob. 697 060 504, hmh.com.pl

Maple Tree Montessori Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two

Celebrating

25 years of

British Education in Warsaw

www.thebritishschool.pl

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DO! Education classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). ul. Piechoty

schools

Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/Petyhorska), tel.

531 599 444, mapletreemontessori.pl

Montessori Academy for International Children An English-speaking pre-school (16 months to 6 years of age) with two locations. The school’s policy is to comply with Montessori standards, using the Montessori Method in English.

The school’s philosophy is based on the joy of learning, which comes from discovering and furthering the individual development of each child. ul.

Królewicza Jakuba 36 (Wilanów), ul. Sadowa 4 (Konstancin), Open 8:00-16:45, tel. 502 315 022, montessoriacademy.eu

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American School of Warsaw ASW is a premier collegepreparatory international school that offers a PK-12 curriculum, including the IB Diploma Program in Grades 11 and 12. Students are inspired and challenged every day by experienced and dedicated teachers, who provide enriching learning opportunities in a world class facility. For further information contact: admissions@aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00. ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, aswarsaw.org

The British Primary School of Wilanów Following the National Curriculum of England and Wales, this is the first School in Poland subject to the inspection of the UK Independent School Inspectorate. Pupils receive British and, upon request, Polish reports/ diplomas. The school follows a closed admissions policy and limits enrollment of one nationality to below 50% of each class starting from Year 1. ul. Hlonda 12, bsww.pl

The British School Premium international school established in 1992 by Nord Anglia Education. The cur-

riculum is designed to provide the highest academic quality of education. They follow the English National Curriculum, adapted to the needs of their international student community: from Primary through to the Secondary Key Stages to the IGCSE examinations and a well-established International Baccalaureate (IB) Diploma Program. ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, thebritishschool.pl

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations) Warsaw Montessori School Guided by trained specialists, students will be responsible for managing their household, operating small businesses,

DO! Education caring for local flora and fauna as well as domesticated animals, taking charge of the younger children and much more. “Adolescence Program” activities, integrated with academic studies, help students discover their inner strength to meet life’s real challenges. ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, warsawmontessori.edu.pl

The English Primary The English Primary is designed specifically for children in the primary education ages, just as children experience in England but in an international community.

Pupils are taken through the key learning stages so that they can achieve to the best of their ability through a fun learning experience. The Core Curriculum subjects include English, Phonics, Science, Mathematics, French, PE and Swimming, Music, Personal, Social and Health Education. ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 784 037 808, tep.edu.pl

The Canadian School of Warsaw International Elementary and Middle School Located on two campuses in the Mokotów this is the only authorized IB School with PYP programs taught in English and Polish. French is taught as a third language. Offers a wide range of extra activities, a summer school, and employs a full time psychologist. Provision is made for additional Polish and English support.

International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create the perfect learning environment. ul. Bełska 7, tel. 692 411 573 / 885 420 044, secretary@canadianschool.pl or secretary.olimpijska@ canadian-school.pl

International Trilingual School of Warsaw Established in 1994, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with

a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fillimmersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel.

501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/saint-exupery.pl

meet your needs. Also home/ company visits and online courses. For a free 60-minute trial email: kontakt@ cupofpolish.com Edu & More Polish Language School incorporating modern teaching methods and reasonable prices. Intensive & regular Polish courses for beginners. Business & everyday Polish. ul. Nowogrodzka 44 / 7, polishonlinenow.com

Monnet International School Located in Mokotów, the Monnet is the only school in Poland that implements the International Baccalaureate Program from kindergarten level all the way through to secondary school. The fullyqualified staff are committed to delivering only the highest standards of education. ul.

Frog Acclaimed language school aimed at all levels of competency. Flexible schedules and a history of working with foreigners make it one of the ‘go to’ choices for new arrivals wanting to polish their Polish. ul. Mazowiecka

Stępińska 13, tel. 22 852 06 08, maturamiedzynarodowa.pl

Klub Dialogu Outstanding programs for foreigners living in Poland: a variety of courses aimed at every level. Using over ten years of experience, the leaning process becomes an adventure at Klub Dialogu. ul.

adult learning Cup of Polish cupofpolish.com Personalized Polish classes adapted to

12/24, frog.org.pl

Ordynacka 13/5, klubdialogu.pl

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DO! Health & Beauty cycling stores & service Bikeman On-road, x-road and off-road bikes, with brands including Alpina, Burley, Ergon and Giant. Al. Wyzwolenia 14, bikeman.pl

Galeria Sztuki Rowerowej Glorious bikes, many of them vintage, and many of them in colors that’ll make you the talk of the town. ul. Widok 10 Kettler The world-renowned Kettler brand brings the full extent of their offer to Warsaw. On the bike front that means mountain bikes, city and their innovative e-bikes. ul. Okopowa 56, pl.kettler.net

data to improve your game. ul.

Burakowska 15, centrumgolf.pl

First Warsaw Golf & Country Club Features a par 72, 18-hole championships golf course, all year driving range, luxurious club house and a stunning environment replete with gliding swans and bouncing bunnies! The final hole, set on an island, attracts golfers from across Poland and beyond. ul. Golfowa (Jabłonna), firstwarsawgolf.com Golf Parks Poland Keen golfers (all ages) can perfect their swing at this friendly, well equipped driving range, whilst beginners can opt for professional individual lessons or beginner group programs in English or Polish. ul. Vogla 19, golfparkspoland.pl

golf Centrum Golf Fulfill the dream of playing at Pebble Beach or Torrey Pines by booking a tee-time on one of Centrum Golf’s HD golf simulators. Added benefits include instant analysis and

104 Warsaw Insider | JUNE 2018

gyms

Exuma Gym Warsaw’s latest luxury gym features equipment by

Life Fitness and Hammer Strength, a wellness zone, private parking and stunning views of the National Stadium across the river. ul. Wioślarska 10, exumagym.com

Holmes Place Energy High standard equipment, personal training and group classes. Six month membership available for approx. zł.

200 per month, though prices are subject to change. Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (C.H. Arkadia), ul.

Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), holmesplace.pl

Holmes Place Premium Three ‘premium locations’, with the Hilton and Regent branches housing a 25-meter pool. Sauna and steam room facilities are available in all all three, as are a varied timetable of classes plus personal training. ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel), ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), holmesplace.pl

Little Gym Targeted at children, expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructorto-child ratio, original music

and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. ul. Bruzdowa 56, thelittlegym.pl

McFit A 2,000 sq/m studio that utilizes the latest technology as well as ‘cyber training’ programs. Open 24/7, with membership from zł. 89 per month. ul. Świętokrzyska 3 (corner of Nowy Świat), mcfit.com

Quantum Fitness A place of quiet, understated luxury, equipment is state-ofthe-art and complemented by expert trainers at the peak of their game. This is the full 24-carat gym experience. ul.

Piękna 15, quantumpiekna.pl

Ride Warsaw Group cycling classes overseen by a team of Englishspeaking instructors. This is not a leisurely Sunday pedal, but a high energy workout with a banging soundtrack and constant interaction. ul.

Karolkowa 30, ridewarsaw.com

RiverView Wellness Centre Top-class facilities and equipment, private instructors and

DO! Health & Beauty small classes. The view from the highest pool in Europe offers a glorious panorama of the city and is almost worth the membership fee alone.

Annual prices begin from around zł. 4,000. ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental), riverview. com.pl

spas & salons Clochee Natural, organic cosmetic brand that’s been dubbed a ‘pro-health project for your body and soul’. Using only certified ingredients, Clochee’s beauty products bring you closer to nature. Newlylaunched, their flagship store also houses a top-notch spa facilities. ul. Nowolipki 13, spa. clochee.com/spa

ouch!

DEPILACJA WOSKIEM

Ouch!

Experts in waxing, Ouch! aim their offer at ‘busy women looking for express treatments with lasting effects who, at the same time, appreciate a sense of intimacy’. ul. Belwederska 32; ul.

Bonifraterska 8, ouch.pl PARDON MY FRENCH

manicure pedicure

Pardon My French Manicure and pedicure treatments with high quality lacquers and an awareness of global trends: if you need an endorsement, Paul McCartney visited when he was in Poland! ul.

Belwederska 32; Bonifraterska 8; ul. Mokotowska 56, ul. Wilcza 3 pardonmyfrench.pl

The Pedicure Place A luxury pedi/manicure clinic with room for 10. All the latest OPI varnishes and over 200 colors guarantee you’ll find the latest in styling and nail

care. ul. Pokorna 2, pedicureplace.pl

Quantum Clinic Using first class, pioneering methods and technology, the Quantum Clinic surpasses the norms that Warsaw has become used to. ul. Piękna 15, quantumpiekna.pl

Rostowski Barber Shop A true celebration of the vintage barber shop, Rostowski have the ambiance nailed to a tee thanks to a crew that’s ready for banter and an interior replete with jack-up chairs, glinting zinc and restored floor tiles. ul.

Koszykowa 58, rostowskibarbershop.pl

Retro Day Spa Royally indulgent interiors hark back to a different century, though the treatments are all hi-tech and include packages for pregnant women among the variety of beauty offers. Al. Ujazdowskie 18/11 Sante The dry and wet steam room left the Insider impressed, but not as much as the ‘mood rooms’ – imagine a lunar landscape chamber with a salt-covered floor. The other, meanwhile, comes clad in minerals with recliners hewn from heated tiles. ul.

Jagiellońska 55A, studiosante.pl

Studio Jej i Jego Hair and beauty treatments for men and women – inc. nail care, massage, facial and body treatments. ul. Wiertnicza 93A You & You Maciej Wróblewski Poland’s premier hair stylist is Maciej Wróblewski, and his flagship salon fuses a personal approach with professional styling. Disappointments are unheard of. ul.

Grzybowska 61 (Galeria Platinum Towers), youandyou.eu

HIDDEN HISTORY OF POLISH

M

y students often ask why the names of the months in Polish are so tricky – after all, only May sounds familiar. The answer is actually simple: all our months have Slavic roots, and as such, names are related to the cycle of nature: January, or Styczeń, originates from the words na styku (at the junction) which relates to the crossing of old and new. April is all about flowers, so Kwiecień is taken from the word kwiat (flower), while July, or Lipiec, is when lime trees bloom (lipa). Other logical examples include August, or Sierpień, which is directly named after our word for a scythe, and Listopad (November), which is a mix of two words: liście (leaves) & spadają (to fall).

Without doubt though, June, or Czerwiec, is the most interesting of the bunch. Named after little red bugs called czerwy polskie (Polish cochineal), the larvae from these insects used to be collected, dried and then ground into powder to create a colored pigment. During the Middle Ages and Renaissance this dye was one of Poland’s best-known exports and was sent all across Europe. It was especially appreciated by the Venetians who used it for their silks and oil paintings. Whilst its popularity eventually fizzled out, 19th century Poles were still using it to dye their clothes or color their vodka. The associations with red don’t just end there: it’s in June that poppies bloom in Poland and strawberries become ripe for eating. Actually, there’s even a Polish proverb relating to ‘Red June’: czerwiec się czerwieni, będzie dość (pieniędzy) w kieszeni.

Translated, that gives you:“if June will be red, there’ll be enough (money) in your pocket”.

by Dagmara Sobiecka, cupofpolish.com

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DO! Shopping Listings fashion Ania Kuczyńska Ania Kuczyńska is becoming well known for her highly fashionable, minimalist clothing designs. The store also carries adorable baby clothes and various accessories. ul.

Mokotowska 61

Balthazar An atelier, boutique and private tailor with several unique brands. Book your meeting by calling tel. 535 545 728. ul. Mokotowska 64 (Plac Trzech Krzyży), balthazar.pl

di Trevi Boutique Aimed at both him and her, di Trevi present the freshest Italian footwear releases from prestige brands such as Ballin and Loriblu. Handbags are also available inside a chic interior that exudes luxury. ul.

Piękna 11A, ditrevi.pl

designers runs this boutique/ showroom. Choose from the latest collections or have a dress custom made for a particular occasion. ul.

Nowolipki 2, joannaklimas.com

Just Paul Exuding confident femininity, this energetic brand is characterized by its light and unobtrusive elegance and sense of effortless nonchalance. Founded in 2012 by designers Justyna and Paula, Just Paul seeks to address the needs of the modern woman with its line in chic but casual clothing and more dazzly evening wear. ul. Mokotowska 61, justpaul.pl

L’Aura L’Aura is the only place in the city where you can find unique pieces from the likes of Hussein Chalayan, Dries Van Noten and Veronique Branquinho. ul.

Mokotowska 26

EM Cashmere Boutique Available brands include Allude Cashmere, Annette Görtz, Studiorundholz and Sarah Pacini with 30-40% discounts on last year’s collections, and up to 70% on those of previous years. ul. Szczygla 8, emcashmere.pl

Femi Stories Aimed at the young, active woman of today, Femi Pleasure’s dynamic range of clothing is both urban and outdoorsy. ‘Unique design, quality and comfort’ are the sacred three pillars upon which their philosophy is built. ul. Browarna 4, femistories.com

Gosia Baczyńska This elegant boutique on the other side of the river features gorgeous, unique designer pieces. ul. Floriańska 6/11, gosiabaczynska.com.pl

Lui Store Elegant female fashion store with brands including Attico, Paul Andrew, Jonathan Simkhai, and Markus Lupfer, as well as lesser-known names making their first in-roads into the world of high fashion. ul.

Mokotowska 26, lui-store.com

Łukasz Jemioł Known for his sophisticated yet nonchalant designs, discover Łukasz Jemioł’s flagship store in the heart of Warsaw’s boutique quarter. Utilizing the highest quality fabrics, his contemporary apparel comes in two lines, Premium and Basic. ul. Mokotowska 26 Madox

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Damian Nowacki’s fashion store juxtaposes urban street

Kasia Miciak and Polanka. ul.

Ptasia 6, ptasia6.pl

Moliera 2 Boutique Brands include: Alexandre Birman, Alexandre Vauthier, Anya Hindmarch, Aquazzura, Balmain, Beach Bunny, Buscemi, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Francesco Russo, Gianvito Rossi, Herve Leger, Isabel Marant, Jimmy Choo, Kenzo, Kotur, Maison Michel, Moncler, One Teaspoon, Simonetta Ravizza, Tod’s, Tory Burch, Valentino, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon. ul.

Moliera 2, moliera2.com

Mostrami.pl Known to insiders as the ‘Polish Net-a-porter’, the online Mostrami portal showcases a whole breed of Polish fashion talent: Blessus, Justyna Chrabelska, Łukasz Jemioł, and Zuo Corp, as well as the rock stars of the local scene such as Kupisz, Zień and Plich. mostrami.pl

ul. Browarna 4, madoxdesign.com

Joanna Klimas One of Poland’s top fashion

casual against unisex ideas.

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Brands include: Beach Bunny, Buscemi, Canada Goose, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Dsquared 2, Christian Louboutin, Fay, Gianvito Rossi, Hogan, Kenzo, Kotur, Moncler, Mr& Mrs Italy, One Teaspoon, Ralph Lauren, Simonetta Ravizza, Tom Ford, Tory Burch, Valentino, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon. Childrenswear: Burberry Children, Dsquared2 Kids, Kenzo Kids, Moncler Kids, Ralph Lauren Kids, Tod’s Kids.

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, plactrzechkrzyzy.com

Ptasia 6 A unique ladies concept store showcasing the works of both emerging and established independent Polish fashion labels such as Eva Grygo, Confashion, Horror! Horror!,

Reykjavik District Chic, well-cut menswear for all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal. ul. Burakowska 15, reykjavikdistrict.com

See Me Boutique Regarded as one of the stalwart boutiques of Mokotowska, See Me’s collection includes the latest lines from Joseph, Diane Von Furstenberg, Daniela De Marchi and many others besides. Scented interiors and expert service (who know how to brew a coffee) make it the ideal place in which to browse the afternoon the away. ul.

Mokotowska 51/53, seeme.com.pl

Viola Śpiechowicz Inspiring, unpretentious and highly creative, Viola Śpiechowicz reinvisions what it means to be feminine by giving classic styles a progressive edge – choose from limited pret a porter collection and exclusive haute couture creations. ul. Chopina 5B, violaspiechowicz.com

Wake Up The Bear Stylish ‘travel practical’ clothes as designed by the acclaimed Viola Spiechowicz. Featuring natural fabrics and multipurpose add-ons, this is the ultimate in comfort clothes. ul.

Mokotowska 41, wakeupthebear. com

home Dado Design ‘Beauty, modernity and functionality’. It’s on these foundations Dado’s philosophy is built. Touting brands such as Bruhl, Gaber, Slide and Infiniti, this design store carries pieces chosen for their style and originality. Find it

DO! Shopping Listings all from sofas and tables to picture frames and salt shakers. ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), dadod

esign.pl

Le Pukka For interior inspirations take a look at Le Pukka: highly original furniture and decorative pieces for the home come from the likes of Smeg, AreaDeclic, HK Living and Zuiver. ul. Solec 58/60, lepukka.pl Lipova Showroom Products from Bolon, Vitra and Philips take center stage in Lipova, an edgy store that will reinvent your home / office.

From Bolon, find unique 3D flooring, from Vitra, modern Swiss furniture pieces and from Philips, Lumiblade OLEDs. ul. Lipowa 7A, lipova.pl

Magazyn Praga A visit to this home design store is guaranteed to transform your apartment.

Showcasing emerging Polish talent, the items here are not without humor: ceramic French bulldogs are particularly popular. ul. Mińska 25 Makutra To know and not to cook, is not to know. This store has everything a master chef seeks: from tagines to mezzalunas, it’s got the lot covered. Huge stock of cook books and kitchenware. ul.

Oleandrów 5, makutra.com

Nap Bedtime accessories are the bread and butter here, but there’s also several bits for the

kitchen as well: coffee makers

by Tom Dixon, posh pans from Baumalu, arty saltshakers from Menu and tableware from Muubs. ul. Mysia 3 Porcelanowa Award-winning, contemporary Polish porcelain produced by cult, internationally recognized brands such as Aoomi and Fenek. ul. Kredytowa 2, porcelanowa.com

curios lifestyle essentials. ul.

J.Dąbrowskiego 16, resetpoint.pl

Secret Life (of Things) An ‘eco lifestyle concept store’ full of bio-friendly scents, cosmetics, hand-made trinkets and housewares, rustic furnishings and detox teas. Check the prestigious porcelain by Kristoff, stock up on Madara cosmetics, or snap up a pair of handmade shoes. ul. Dąbrowskiego 15A, secretlife.pl

Reset Point Relocated to new premises, this outstanding home design shop balances fun, retro kitsch with ultra cool works from both upcoming and established local creatives.

Endlessly fun and eccentric it’s a treasure trove of renovated antique furniture, assorted

SH Studio Art, interior design and furniture are married together inside a tiny store stacked with beautiful antique and retro pieces that have been refurbished and redesigned to lend them a contemporary edge. ul. Wilcza 44, s-h-studio.pl

COOKING IS OUR PASSION Though specializing in non-gluten, vegan and vegetarian dishes, at Lifemotiv even meateaters aren’t forgotten.

We also have freshlysqueezed juices, ealthy cocktails and gluten-free cakes served inside an open space with a green, pleasant terrace.

If you can’t make it to us, we’ll make it to you! We now offer home delivery and only use biodegradable packaging.

G A L L E R I A M O KOTÓ W L I F E M OT I V. C O M . P L TEL. 884 888 374

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General Listings 5-Star Hotels

6306, warsawmarriott.com

between-us.eu

Express Relocations

Bellotto

Regent Warsaw Hotel

Boutique B&B

ul. Szyszkowa 35/37, expressrelocations.com

ul. Senatorska 13/15, tel. 22 829 6444, hotelbellotto.pl

ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, regent-warsaw.com

ul. Smolna 14/6, tel. 22 829 4800, bedandbreakfast.pl

The Rialto Boutique Hotel

car rental

Bristol Hotel ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1000, hotelbristolwarsaw.pl

H15 Boutique ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 553 8700, info@h15ab.com, h15ab.com

ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8700, rialto.pl

Avis

ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6100, sheraton.pl

Fredrick Chopin Airport, tel. 22 650 4872, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 575 6583, Reservations: tel. 801 120 010, avis.pl

ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888, radissonblu.com

Hertz Rent a Car Hilton Warsaw ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555 / 800 44 11 482, hilton.com

Sofitel Warsaw Victoria Indigo ul. Smolna 40, tel. 22 418 89 00, indigowarsaw.com

ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8011, sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com

Westin InterContinental ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, warsaw.intercontinental.com

Mamaison Le Régina Hotel ul. Kościelna 12, tel. 22 531 6000, mamaison.com

Marriott Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630

Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, westin.pl

ul. Kineskopowa 1, euromove.pl

Interdean International ul. Geodetów 172, Piaseczno, tel.

22 701 7171, interdean.com

Sheraton

Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel

Euro Move International Movers

Okęcie Airport, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 2896; mob. 691 411 130. ul. Nowogrodzka 27, tel. 22 621 1360.

relocation companies

B&B

AGS Warsaw

Between Us Bed & Breakfast

CorstJens Worldwide Movers

ul. Bracka 20, tel. 22 8285417 (from 10 a.m. to 11p.m.),

ul. Nowa 23, Stara Iwiczna, corstjens.com

ul. Julianowska 37, Piaseczno, agsmovers.com

Move One Relocations Also immigration assistance, fine art shipping, pet transport and consulting services. Check their website for more details. ul. Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 8160, moveonerelo.com

Relo Planet International, domestic and office removals, corporate and individual relocations, fine art shipping, storage, insurance, as well as a full range of assistance services (immigration, etc.). ul. Batalinou Platerówek 3, reloplanet.com

w W a r s a www.city-tour.com.pl

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108 Warsaw Insider | JUNE 2018

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Warsaw Guide

THE ESSENTIALS...

Cut through the chaff and time manage your visit as effectively as possible.

PAW I A K

then visit The Museum of Life Under Communism: it’s tiny, but humorous, eccentric and highly informative.

While you’re there, squeeze into a knackered militia wagon and take one of their commie-themed tours. Equally weird, check out a former nuclear bunker by visiting the once top secret Obiekt Alfa (obiektalfa.pl). Lastly, check what’s on at Dom Spotkań z Historią, a small exhibition space that specializes in quirky photo exhibits that explore Warsaw’s past – though subject matter varies to cover differing chapters of the city’s history, the PRL era seems covered more than most.

MODERN WARSAW

THE OLD…

The Old Town, raised from the rubble after WWII, is symbolic of this ‘phoenix city’, and fully deserving of its UNESCO listed status. The Royal Castle is a maze of fancy chambers and important paintings by the likes of Rembrandt and Canaletto, while the Museum of Warsaw is a great primer to the city – expect them to unveil even more exhibit rooms at some point in June. To soak in the extravagances of Poland’s imperial years, then Łazienki Park is essential, as is a visit to the Wilanów Palace: frequently termed as being ‘the Polish Versailles’, the gardens are as unmissable as the former royal chambers.

WWII

Memories of WWII still hang heavy.

Learn about the 1944 Warsaw Uprising at The Rising Museum: it’s deservedly rated as among the most important cultural institutions in the

country. Lesser known, the Old Town’s ‘Heritage Centre’ documents the destruction of the city, while three separate museums, Pawiak, Szucha and Katyń, cover equally somber chapters in Poland’s dark history.

JEWISH WARSAW

Though largely flattened, the former Jewish Ghetto contains numerous memorials, among them the Umschlagplatz installation that commemorates the deportations to Treblinka. The one synagogue that survived (Twarda 6) is the center of local Jewish life, while the innovative Polin covers all aspects of this nation’s complex and often fraught Jewish history.

COMMUNISM

A full tour of Stalin’s Palace of Culture is a must: the basements are wild and the viewing terrace unimpeachable. Check the more ambient side to Communism in the Neon Museum and

Wonder amid romping kids and whirring machines in the Copernicus Science Centre and after, visit the university library to explore the stunning rooftop garden. The Museum of Modern Art is a short walk away while across the water, the state-of-the-art National Stadium conducts regular tours and will thrill stadium nerds and football fans alike.

ART

Serious art lovers flock to the National Museum for its determined presentation of art through the ages. The Zachęta, the Modern Art Museum and CSW are more alternative with captivating exhibitions that thrill non-conformists. That said, some of the city’s best art is found on its walls: Praga and Muranów are particularly known for their large format wall murals.

PEOPLE

The watchful shadow of Chopin, the city’s favorite son, looms large across Warsaw: the museum dedicated to his memory amazes by the breadth of its scope, while the Chopin concerts held each Sunday in Łazienki are a local rite of passage. Now reopened following a thorough refit, the Marie Curie Museum in New Town does a splendid job of remembering the world’s most famous female science boffin. warsawinsider.pl

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Insider Finds

SPLASH!

Among the secrets that the Wisła has recently revealed, a dolphin that escaped Swedish clutches has been wooing visitors at the Museum of Warsaw…

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY MUSEUM OF WARSAW

The Wisła doesn’t half like to surprise us: a train carriage, shipwrecks, tombstones, a Soviet fighter plane, and a 15-meter plastic whale have all either washed up on the banks of the river or been discovered at its bottom – there’s even been a severed head thrown in (quite literally) for good measure. But among the bizarre and occasionally grisly findings, it’s also divulged its fair share of treasure. Back in 1906, local press reported how a team of sand miners had sensationally happened upon a number of elaborate stone sculptures dating from an unidentified time – but with further exploration of the riverbed forbidden by the Russian authorities, the story was promptly forgotten until decades later when an archaeology boffin stumbled across these reports while sifting through archives in the university library. A high-tech search was launched in 2009, and the next few years heralded a motherlode of discoveries.

2012 was especially fruitful, with six tons of artefacts hauled from the riverbed. Many were said to hail from Villa Regia, a royal summer residence that was looted by the Swedes in the 17th century before being burned to the ground in the orgy of pillage. But while much of the swag was shipped to Sweden where it can be found to this day, other bits and pieces of loot were lost on the way: thought to have come from a boat that had run aground, the items salvaged from the northern Praga-side of the Wisła included a royal crest engraved on a 720-kilogram lintel, masks and the head of a stone dolphin that was deemed so beautiful as to warrant a mention in the Baroque era poetry of Adam Jarzębski.

Created in grey marble, quite probably by a Tuscan-based artist, it’s speculated that the dolphin formed part of a fountain ordered by King Ladislaus IV Vasa just two decades before the Swedes bowled into town. Further, historians have surmised that the details (cupid striking the dolphin), symbolize man’s struggle with lust. Yet the curiosities don’t end there: having been polished up by conservators, a number of scrawls and Swedish names were found etched onto the amphibious creature – among them, that of a certain Joachim Schwebs. Well hands off Schwebs, that dolphin is ours…

112 Warsaw Insider | JUNE 2018