Warsaw Insider April 2018 #260

Urban Regeneration Spa Rejuvenation Ghetto Rising Anniversary The Elements of Warsaw

Warsaw The Capital’s Original City Magazine Since 1996

APRIL 2018

260 04/2018

INDEKS 334901 ISSN:1643-1723

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ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER AQUAZZURA ALEXANDRE BIRMAN ALEXANDRE BIRMAN ANYA HINDMARCH BALMAIN AQUAZZURA BURBERRY BALMAIN BUSCEMI BUSCEMI CASADEI CASADEI CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN CHRISTIANELIE LOUBOUTIN SAAB SAAB FRANCESCO ELIE RUSSO FRANCESCO RUSSO GIANVITO ROSSI GIANVITO ROSSI HERVE LEGER HERVE LEGER ISABEL MARANT ISABELKENZO MARANT KENZO MAISON MICHEL KOTUR MARC JACOBS LORO PIANA MANOLO BLAHNIK MAISON MICHEL MR & MRS ITALY MANOLO BLAHNIK ONETEASPOON ONETEASPOON SELF – PORTRAIT SELF – PORTRAIT TOD’S TOD’S TORY BURCH BURCH VICTORIA TORY BECKHAM VICTORIA BECKHAM ZIMMERMANN YVES SALOMON

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editorial INFRONT

Editor-in-chief Alex Webber

4 Take a Number 6 News 8 Jewish Ghetto

insider@warsawinsider.pl Art Director Kevin Demaria insider@warsawinsider.pl

Anniversary 12 Four Elements of Waraw

Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com Contributors: Stuart Dowell Maria Mileńko Michał Miszkurka Ed Wight

FEATURES 20 Urban

Regeneration 6 Travel: Spa 2 rejuvenation

Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com

PARTNER SPOTLIGHT

ey Account Manager K Agata Sicińska asicinska@valkea.com

28 The latest marketplacenews from the Warsaw Insider’s friends and advertisers

EAT!

31 Review:

Arigator 3 2 Review: Zielony NiedŹwiedŹ 34 Review: Kanapa

DRINK!

63 Review:

APRIL 2018

ey Account Manager K Joanna Chmielewska jlysik@valkea.com

R

ing the bells for Spring is here! With Warsaw well and truly out of its zombified winter stupor, it’s a good time to reflect on what lies ahead. In the capital’s case, the sense of new beginnings isn’t just connected to the bright optimism of the season alone. All around us, vast tracts of the city are being redeveloped with skyscrapers rising faster than the daffodils. This issue, we take a closer look at this ongoing regeneration and just what it entails. Elsewhere, we give the four elements of earth, wind, fire and water a Warsaw-style twist, before heading into nowhere to reveal the best hotels for spring cleaning both the body and mind. As ever, hope you enjoy the fruits of our labor.

Forum 64 Review: Mikkeller

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DO!

Machine Minigolf 77 Review:

The Future Will Be Different 80 Museums 93 Guide: Essentials 94 Map 96 Insider Finds

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Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

on the cover After months of doom and gloom, Spring has broken through the greyness – the rest of the year starts now!

(Illustration by Michał Miszkurka)

Warsaw Insider | APRIL 2018

VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies. All information ©2018 Warsaw Insider.

PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT

77 Review: Time

BURBERRY CANADA GOOSE CASADEI CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN MEN FAY GIANVITO ROSSI KENZO MONCLER MR & MRS ITALY ONETEASPOON RALPH LAUREN TOD’S TORY BURCH VALENTINO BURBERRY CHILDREN DSQUARED2 KIDS KENZO KIDS MONCLER KIDS

number take a

55,000 Two years after the last motion advocating an outright ban on abortion was thwarted following an outburst of public anger, a new proposal has sparked a similar wave of national outrage. According to estimates released by City Hall, over 55,000 people marched on parliament on the 23rd of April to voice their anger, with additional marches in Kraków and Poznań also drawing significant support.

If pushed through, the amended legislation would ban the abortion of fetuses with severe or fatal disorders, and would only permit the procedure in the case of rape or danger to the mother’s health.

Dubbed Czarny Piątek (Black Friday), the protest drew further headlines when police were caught attempting to prevent women from lighting flares, a direct contradiction of the blind-eye policy unofficially in place for nationalist marches.

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PHOTOGRAPH BY AGATA KUBIS/OKO.PRESS

The number of protestors that gathered for Czarny Piątek

News Snappy Birthday

Warsaw Zoo marked its 90th birthday in March by serving a crocodile-shaped cake to staff and visitors. Opened to the public in 1928, the zoo has expanded over the years to cover an area of 40 hectares.

Its finest moment, however, came during the war when its director, Jan Żabiński, sheltered over 300 Jews inside the grounds. Launching on April 18th, and running till September, a temporary exhibition will document both this and other key events in the zoo’s history.

CLAMPING DOWN

City Hall has revealed that Warsaw’s Straż Miejska division clamps around 2,500 cars each month for assorted parking indiscretions, thereby adding approximately 625,000 złoty per month to the city’s coffers. However, with the municipal police receiving a complaint every two minutes, authorities are struggling to keep up with the town’s determined efforts to park badly – to deal with the nuisance, it’s been announced that another 90 clamps have been ordered in a bid to eradicate the menace.

Offering round-the-clock outcalls that will reach your deathbed within a maximum of 45 minutes, a new service has been launched looking to tend and relieve the hungover masses. The brainchild of Dr. Tomasz Hendzel, Kac Doktor (kacdoktor.pl) promises to kick your hangover / comedown into touch within a maximum of three hours. Relying on intravenous drip feeds to nourish your body with the vitamins and antioxidants it demands, a range of treatments have been designed to restore the balance of your organism and allow for a quick, pain-free recovery. The bad news? Your big night out will come at a cost. Prices range from zł. 450 to 800.

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PHOTOGRAPHS SHUTTERSTOCK

Kill Or Cure

Anniversary

Warsaw Remembers

April 19th marks the 75th anniversary of the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising, a heroic rebellion that was always doomed to fail…

D

espite constituting around a third of the capital’s prewar population, when the Nazi occupation began the city’s Jews found themselves imprisoned inside an area covering just 2.5% of the town. Considered the largest and most significant Ghetto in the Third Reich, it was sealed off in 1941 with deportations to the gas chambers beginning the following year. With rumors swirling that the Ghetto was to be imminently liquidated, the Jews that remained rose up against the Nazis in 1943. Though out-numbered and hopelessly under-equipped (their collections of arms numbered two sub-machine guns, 17 rifles, 500 pistols and numerous homemade devices), the insurgents held off the full might of the Wehrmacht till May 16th.

To commemorate this event, hundreds of volunteers will patrol the streets of Muranów (the area of the former Ghetto) handing out in excess of 100,000 paper daffodils. In addition, a major concert shall be held outside the Polin Musum at the Monument to the Heroes of the Ghetto Uprising. Widely understood to be the last major commemoration of the event that will involve any survivors, the city has also announced that sirens will ring out at noon across Warsaw in salute of the combatants.

Symbolic of respect, memory and hope, daffodils have been inexorably linked to Warsaw Ghetto Uprising ever since Marek Edelman started leaving them at the various sites associated with the revolt. A celebrated cardiologist, patriot and social activist, Edelman played a key role in the insurrection and served as the last commander of the Jewish forces after their original leader, Mordechai Anielewicz, committed suicide having been surrounded by Nazi units. Edelman died in 2009, but his legacy lives on. In an action initiated by the Polin Museum, since 2013 paper daffodils have been given out to the public to wear on their lapels in a sign of remembrance.

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PHOTOGRAPHS SHUTTERSTOCK

THE DAFFODIL

Anniversary

Revisiting The Rising

The Ghetto was razed to the ground after the rebellion was quelled, yet even so a clutch of sites directly related to the uprising can be visited…

The Jewish Uprising was conducted by Mordechai Anielewicz from a fortified shelter on Miła 18. The 24-year-old commander chose, along with his girlfriend and approximately 100 other defenders, to commit suicide on realizing they’d been surrounded by Nazi units. Before supposedly taking poison, Anielewicz penned a defiant final letter: “My dream has become reality, I have lived to see Jewish defense in the Ghetto in its greatest splendor.” After the war the bodies were not exhumed; instead, rubble was poured on the spot and visitors can now climb the small grassy knoll marking the area of the ‘bunker’.

MEMORIAL TO THE EVACUATION OF THE WARSAW GHETTO FIGHTERS Found outside the Raiffeisen office on Prosta 51 is a new-ish monument that depicts several pairs of hands disappearing down a manhole. Honoring those who made a bolt to the Aryan side when all was lost, the inscription lists the names of the eight fighters who made it through the war, those who died during it, and those who ‘remained in the sewers’. Marek Edelman (see previous page) was among the survivors.

JEWISH HISTORICAL INSTITUTE

MONUMENT TO THE HEROES OF THE GHETTO UPRISING

Housed in the former Jewish Library on Tłomackie 3/5, the Institute houses an incredible exhibition detailing life in the Ghetto. The ‘Blue Tower’ that shadows it was the site of The Great Synagogue – the symbolic demolition of this house of worship marked the end of the Uprising. “A fantastic piece of theater,” recalled the German commander, Jurgen Stroop. “I glanced over at my brave officers and men, tired and dirty, silhouetted against the glow of burning building, and after prolonging the suspense for a moment, I shouted Heil Hitler and pressed the button.”

Standing outside Polin, and unveiled to coincide with the 5th anniversary of the Rising, it’s at this 11-meter tall memorial that all major commemorations take place: overcome with emotion, West German Chancellor Willy Brandt famously sank to his knees in front of the monument in 1970, a spontaneous act that did much to sow the seeds of reconciliation. A separate plaque remembering his kniefall stands in the north-west corner of the park. The original uprising monument, meanwhile, can be found close to the south-east glass corner of Polin.

The red sandstone was chosen for its resemblance to blood.

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PHOTOGRAPHS WIKICOMMONS

MIŁA 18

Enjoy the hospitality and tastes of the Bosphorus in Poland’s most authentic Turkish restaurant Pl. Konstytucji 2, tel. 883 444 441, anatolia.pl

Four Elements of Warsaw bother doing the hard work yourself? Head to Fest (ul.

Zaruskiego 8) for a menu that places fire over finesse.

A primordial celebration of meat and brawn, the ribs – cooked in an outdoor smoker – are one of life’s simple, Flintstone pleasures.

Warsaw doesn’t need many excuses to play with fire – and this is how it does…

No pyro, no party! A public manifestation around these parts just isn’t the same without an arsenal of flares being let off in the air. Whether it’s at an anti-government parade, or an Independence Day rally, the locals don’t need any prompting to reach for the flares. No-one, however, enjoys a good pyro display more than the city’s football fans. Despite being in contravention to stadium rules, big matches involving traditional foes such as Lech Poznań or Wisła Kraków will often begin or climax with fearsome, choking displays of fan firepower. The results – often accompanied by elaborately staged banner displays – are spectacular.

At the Finnish Houses you won’t see the fire, but you’ll certainly smell it.

Tucked behind the French Embassy lies a collection of

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timber cabins hidden from the world. Built in 1945 to house the architects and engineers recruited to rebuild Warsaw, the materials for these cottages were imported from Finland as part of wartime reparations.

Though originally intended as a temporary housing measure, many have survived and prowling around them isn’t too different from entering a small, magic world. Throughout the year, find the pungent scent of wood-fired stoves drifting gently in the breeze.

The first cracks of spring see the first hardy natives dusting down the BBQ set and heading to the Wisła. The right side of the riverbank, just south of Poniatowski Bridge, is one of the more popular spots to fire up the grill despite repeated warnings from the authorities that boozing won’t be tolerated. But why

With practically every other street witness to some massacre or other, Warsaw has a lot of remembering to do. This it does by lighting lantern-style votive candles (known locally as znicze), under the memorials around town. It’s a custom that hits fever pitch whenever a specific anniversary approaches. Most stunning of all, however, is All Saints’ Day on November 1. That’s a time that sees the whole country descend on cemeteries to honor the dead – by the time the public have left, entire graveyards are left bathed in the eerie reddish glow of these dancing little lights.

PHOTOGRAPH SHUTTERSTOCK

Fire

Following WWI, a surge of patriotism tore through Poland in the wake of her newfound independence.

Keen to remember soldiers killed in WWI and the Polish-Soviet conflict, a group of unidentified locals left a commemorative stone tablet in 1923 outside the arcade that linked the two wings of Saski Palace together. The public were ecstatic, forcing the Polish General Staff to bow to pressure and create a longer lasting Tomb of the Unknown Solider. Officially inaugurated in 1925, it survived the wartime obliteration of the rest of Saski Palace (possibly because a conscientious German sapper failed to detonate the charge), and its eternal flame flickers to this day.

Four Elements of Warsaw

Wind

Who doesn’t want to be the captain of a Boeing 737?

Live the dream by jumping inside a state-of-the-art flight simulator at the brilliant Warsaw Gift Shop (warsawgiftshop.com).

Inside the cockpit, three HD projectors and a four-anda-half meter, curved screen contribute to the nerve jangling realism – just to really test your mettle, find yourself facing inclement weather conditions and a range of emergency situations. Do you have what it takes to be a hero? Flights begin at zł. 149 for 15 minutes of airtime.

Set on the south-west fringes of the city, Fly Spot Warsaw (flyspot.com) have created what is reputed to be the largest wind tunnel in the world. Vertical in height, visitors enter a cylindrical object before high-powered ventilators

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Warsaw Insider | APRIL 2018

(producing an airstream that reaches speeds of 330 kilometers per hour) blasts them several meters into the air. With technological solutions designed by the Space Engineering Department at the Technical University of Berlin, it’s the closest you’ll ever get to being a bird.

And breathe… On second thoughts, better not. For years Warsaw has been grappling with a smog problem that has seen it consistently appearing in various lists of shame published by global health authorities. In fact, a study last year revealed that such is the standard of air quality, the average resident inhales the equivalent of 1,000 ciggies per year. A confluence of factors have bolstered the problem, and these include poor air circulation, antiquated heating systems,

and the insistence of many of burning their trash.

It’s just about the most classic tourist thing you can do in this city – in exchange for zł. 20 allow a stern lift attendant to whisk you to the 30th floor of the Palace of Culture inside a claustrophobic lift that you pray doesn’t break. As the tallest building in the country (237 meters, should you ask), the wind blasted terraces offer unimpeded views that – on a clear day – stretch on for miles. Famously gifted to Poland as a present from Stalin, a number of people still see the building as a grim reminder of Soviet domination. Unloved by many, it’s tediously common to hear locals joke that the reason the view is so good from the top is because it’s the only place in Warsaw that you can’t see the Palace.

Chopin, the city’s favorite son, is remembered in Łazienki Park via a monument that depicts the composer sat under a willow tree blowing in the wind. Revealed in 1926, it was seen as a patriotic homage to one of Poland’s true greats. This wasn’t lost on the Nazis who blew it up and then melted it down.

In fact, it’s said that the occupiers were so disturbed by the statue that they additionally ordered all copies to be destroyed; this made the post-war construction of an imitation largely impossible, and Chopin was only reinstalled after original plans for the statue were eventually discovered in the rubble of the sculptor’s house. Free piano recitals (running from mid-May) have been taking place in the shade of the monument since 1959, and have come to be viewed as a local rite of passage.

PHOTOGRAPH SHUTTERSTOCK

Wind, air: same difference.

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Four Elements of Warsaw Opened in 2011, the Multimedia Fountain Park between the Old Town and the river relies on 367 nozzles to fire out 30,000 liters of water per minute. Running from May till September, each weekend sees choreographed water displays paired with synchronized audio and visual displays.

Usually taking place at 9.30 p.m., it’s a spectacle that attracts thousands of people.

Landlocked she might be, but that doesn’t stop this city from obsessing about water…

A throwback to Poland’s imperial age, Łazienki Park has seen many modifications since it was originally designed in the 17th century. Of these, it’s Dominik Merlini’s additions that are the most captivating.

At the behest of Poland’s last king, Stanisław August Poniatowski, Merlini built the Palace on the Water.

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Constructed as the monarch’s summer residence, it straddles a section of the elongated lake that runs the length of the park.

Completed in 1689, it’s an essay in neo-classical elegance.

One of the great unsung sights of Warsaw, the Filtry waterworks (ul. Koszykowa 81, mpwik.com.pl) have been supplying the capital with clean water since 1886. Designed by English engineer William Heerlein Lindley, the highlight of this 82,000 sq/m plant are the 19th century catacombs.

Here, in the dark, dim light, vaulted ceilings cast a reflection on the water to create an unsettling kaleidoscope effect. Like staring into a Magic Eye for too long, visitors are left disoriented and wondering where the water begins and ends. You can see this for yourself, but you’ll need to wait till July when they open to the public.

If the mermaid is the city’s symbol and mascot, then its defining icon has to be the Palace of Culture. As the city’s dominant – and tallest – building, it’s no surprise that this Stalinist phallus is the capital’s most photographed feature.

To present it in a different light, snappers are learning to hold out for rain – as a street of dents and potholes, long puddles form on Złota allowing budding photographers to capture both the full length of the Palace and its shimmering reflection. Some, now, call it Poland’s most famous puddle!

PHOTOGRAPH SHUTTERSTOCK

Water

As soon as the weather gets warmer, all eyes turn towards the river. Subject to a massive regeneration program, the left bank has been transformed beyond recognition. “You won’t find boulevards like this anywhere else,” boasted the mayor after opening the latest stretch last year.

Bristling with installations, bars and viewing points, the redevelopment has reconnected Warsaw to the Wisła.

On the opposite bank, enjoy a more raw and wild side to the river by walking down bumpy trails and through tangled vegetation.

Symbolizing Warsaw since the 14th century, the mermaid is a common sight around town: most famous of all is the statue found standing in the Old Town Square. Designed by Konstanty Hegel, this particular mermaid debuted in 1855, but was relocated with such frequency that locals nicknamed her ‘the walking statue’. After numerous runins with vandals, in 2008 the decision was taken to gracefully retire the original to the Museum of Warsaw and replace it with a copy.

When switched on, water trickles from the base and, in doing so, catches the reflection of the tenements that frame the Rynek.

3.1 Phillip Lim – Attico – Rodarte – Paul Andrew – Justine Clenquet – Nina Kastens Jonathan Simkhai – D’ESTREE – RIXO London

Four Elements of Warsaw

In Warsaw, at least, the earth does indeed move in sometimes mysterious ways…

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When Soviet forces finally decided to pootle across the river to ‘liberate’ Warsaw, what had once been ‘the Paris of the East’ was a mangled mass of 20 million cubic meters of rubble. Some of that debris found its way to ul. Bartycka where, along with a supplementary pile of earth, it was formed to make a 31-meter manmade mound commemorating the 1944 Warsaw Uprising – the ill-fated rebellion that resulted in the city’s wholesale destruction.

Reached by what is alleged to be the city’s longest stair-

well (approx. 400 steps), the mound is crowned by a giant Kotwica (the official symbol of the Rising).

The Museum of the Earth & Sciences (Al. Na Skarpie 27) is as exciting as it sounds – boffins only, please. That said, while the rocks, fossils and ancient tusks have limited appeal, the building itself if something of a star. Constructed in the 30s to serve as the home of prolific architect Bohdan Pniewski, it’s since been called, “one of the best achievements of contem-

porary Polish architecture as far as decorative stone is concerned.” Inside, find one of Warsaw’s best kept, grisly secrets: take the stairwell to the basement to see a copious blood stain left by an unknown soldier during the 1944 Warsaw Uprising.

Across the world, environmentalists are counting down to celebrate Earth Day on April 22nd. In the past, Warsaw too has marked this date via an Earth Festival held in Pole Mokotowskie. However, for the first time in 29 years it

PHOTOGRAPHS SHUTTERSTOCK

Earth

looks unlikely to go ahead due to a lack of funding.

The last hope, it seems, rests with the Environment Ministry, a body that has long supported logging activity in the primeval UNESCO-listed Białowieża Forest...

Anonymous aisles, rogue trolley-pushers, plastic produce and the same old elevator music on constant loop – welcome to the Polish supermarket. But, no more.

One side effect of the food revolution has been an

eruption of farmers’ markets selling fresh, muddy produce plucked straight from the fields and forests of regional Poland. If you’re looking for good groceries, then the city has never had it better.

the future. Representative of this remarkable renaissance is the Varso Tower. Surpassing The Shard by one meter, it’s set to become the EU’s tallest skyscraper once it’s completed in 2020.

If you like the sight of earth, then look no further than the district of Wola.

Deep into its transition to become Warsaw’s Central Business District, what was once a gloomy no-man’s land of empty plots and derelict factories is being fast-tracked into

Head through the arched blue building on ul. Dawna in Old Town to reach Gnojna Góra (Dung Hill). For most of Warsaw’s history, it was here that the city’s filth, trash and excrement was deposited.

During medieval times, syphilitics were buried up

to their neck in the slurry as an experimental form of cure. According to some sources, when Napoleon visited he was so revolted by the pong that he retreated back muttering curses under his breath. Now grassed over, it’s been rehabilitated to become one of Warsaw’s more romantic meeting points (as the lovelocks clasped to the railings attest). Crowned with a romantic view point, no other Warsaw kiss spot can boast such a vile back story. warsawinsider.pl

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The Regeneration GAME Doing a headcount of new or emerging skyscrapers is one way to judge Warsaw’s progress. But on ground level, there’s just as much action occurring in the old pre-war factories that stud the town…

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KONESER

Entered via a set of hyper spooky Neo Gothic gates, the exciting surrounding Praga’s Koneser complex is palpable.

Built in 1897, for years it housed Warsaw’s premier vodka distillery.

Originally, its remit was to keep the 120,000 Tsarist troops stationed in Warsaw supplied with their daily vodka ration, but with German troops advancing on the city, in October 1915 the nuclear option was taken and over ten million liters of vodka were poured into the street outside to prevent the Germans from getting their claws on it. Construction and renovation work has hit hardcore levels, with the first stage due for completion this year. When all’s done and dusted, the final floorplan will include the world’s first large format vodka museum,the design-led Moxy hotel, a restaurant bossed by Insider favorite Aleskander Baron and a Google campus where, no doubt, happy employees will ride around work on space hoppers and unicorns. Of course, apartments, offices, and shops will also play a considerable part.

warsawinsider.pl

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CITY URBAN REGENERATION

ARTN

Forming a key cornerstone of Wola’s renaissance is the development of Art N, a two hectare space formerly occupied by the 19th century Norblin Factory. Once considered a hallmark for quality, for decades Norblin produced world renowned silverware and, later, top quality rifle ammunition. Abandoned in 1981, the last few years saw its deserted outbuildings put to use as a sprawling eco-market (a.k.a the BioBazar). Now, the developers have moved in promising to keep the historic integrity of the complex and “make stories, not stores.”

“The concept,” reads an official statement, “is based on the assumption that retail space has evolved past simple points of sale: today it is a destination, a place where people go share unique brand-related experiences or look for emotional and inspirational commitment.” By integrating eleven existing pre-war

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buildings into an overall design that envisages over 40,000 sq/m of new office space, and 24,000 sq/m handed to service and commercial areas, the aim is to create a one-of-a-kind project.

Aiding this will be the reintroduction of the BioBazar once work is finished, a museum telling the story of the site’s previous life, and an atmospheric social space complete with wellness center, food court and vendors that value the concept of ‘slow retail’.

Nationalized after the war, it resumed the production of beer in 1954 and in 1972 it rolled out Poland’s first bottles of Coca Cola made under license

BROWARY WARSZAWSKIE

By no means is this the only large-scale project that will transform the area. A stone’s throw from ArtN sits Browary Warszawskie, a one-time brewery that kept Warsaw jolly. Founded in 1846 as Haberbusch and Schiele, at the time it was one of 40 breweries supplying the city – it was still brewing right up until the outbreak of the Warsaw Uprising. Nationalized after the war, it resumed the production of beer in 1954 and in 1972 it rolled out Poland’s first bottles of Coca Cola made under license.

Liquidated in 2004, it has stood as an empty and disintegrating plot ever since. Passed into the care of Echo Investment, today work is underway to revive it. While much will be given to new build, historic elements will be kept – among them, the 170-year old cellars will house restaurants, cafes, and, of course, a microbrewery.

warsawinsider.pl

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CITY URBAN REGENERATION

EC POWIŚLE

Back in those early days when everyone was gushing about how Powiśle was the heart of Warsaw cool, it would have been hard to imagine how quickly the gentrification process would set in.

One minute the cool kids were playing board games in shabby Solec 44, the next a new wave or residents were roaring round the streets in pimped-up jeeps and beamers bought on credit.

Amid the area’s new found affluence and luxury apartments, one element stood out like a poisonous, rotten mushroom: the Powiśle power plant.

When it opened in 1904, it was one of the largest facilities of its type, and it continued feeding Warsaw with power for a nearly unbroken stint of 97 years. That break in service came during the 1944 Uprising. A key target for the insurgents, it was seized by the Polish Home Army in the first hours of the battle, only to be recaptured by the Germans a month later. Serving both Powiśle and the city center with electricity, its loss was seen as a catastrophic blow. Subsequently disabled by the Germans,

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Polish and Soviet engineers set to work on repairing the behemoth the day after Warsaw was liberated. Within three months, the first generator had sputtered back to life.

Finally deactivated in 2001, for the next few years it was allowed to silently rot, its derelict maze of buildings supposedly overrun by giant house martens. But not any longer. A bold program of renovation will see the Powiśle return as a mixed-use center offering 26,000 sq/m of Class A office space and a retail / service area covering 8,000 sq/m. Within that, we’re likely to see a Koszyki-style food hall with over 40 restaurants and bars.

BOHEMA

Due for completion next year, a former cosmetics factory that once produced hairspray and deodorant during communism will be reprised as Bohema, a 4.3 hectare premises with approximately 900 apartments, exhibition spaces, an outdoor theater and co-working spaces. The focal point will be a soaring red brick chimney under and around which will be bars and restaurants and public space for special events.

The focal point will be a soaring red brick chimney under and around which will be bars and restaurants and public space for special events warsawinsider.pl

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TRAVEL SPRING REJUVENATION

The Joy of

SPRING

Rejuvenate the mind and body this spring by heading yonder to the top class spas in the back of beyond…

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FOR MODERN LIVING Poziom 511 Intelligently integrated into the rocky, hilly landscape, Poziom 511 could easily pass for a Bond villain’s lair. The design is minimal at times, bold at others, with the overall vibe feeling cool but energetic. Spa treatments are based around products by leading brands such as OPI and Ericson Laboratoire and involve innovative cosmetic treatments that blur the line between aesthetic medicine. Away from the ultra-modernity of 511, the ruins of the medieval Ogrodzieniec Castle stand 300 meters away and provide a striking contrast.

Podzamcze, poziom511.pl Doubles from zł. 315

FOR LUX RECHARGE

FOR SPIRITUAL RICHNESS

Masuria Arte

Manor House

Looking perfect and pristine in its white-on-white colors, there’s a purity to Arte that realigns the soul. The regionally accented accommodation is swank but engaging with earthy, little touches that add a ‘sense of place’. Hemmed in by billiard green lawns and rippling lakes, the highlights are many: after a dip in the indoor infinity pool, maybe some wine on the terrace or a trip to the spa. Working with luxury brands such as Valmont, their cosmetologists leave guests feeling new.

Stacza, masuriaarte.pl Doubles from zł. 950

Occupying a generous estate, lodgings are spread across a 19th century stable complex and 15th century palace. Unpack the bags and let the madness sink in: visit the Roman baths (feat. an ice-salt orchard, grotto and a ‘shower of sensations’), or explore their so-called ‘meditation garden’ – among other oddities, find a stone circle, ‘power spiral’ and a pyramid of Horus in ten hectares of landscaped gardens filled with burbling streams and ancient oaks. Spirituality is serious business here: Tibetan gong concerts are held at weekends!

Chlewiska, manorhouse.pl Doubles from zł. 280

FOR SHEER CHOICE

FOR FRENCH CHARM

Arłamów Hotel

Uroczysko Siedmiu Stawów

Set down (then up) a steep valley road that’s bloodcurdling in style, Arłamów once functioned as a top secret commie hideaway – poor Lech Wałęsa served out his house arrest here in the 80s. A vast (and we mean vast) new complex has been added since, and the place is now awash with top-class facilities: a 9-hole golf course, tennis courts, equestrian center, an immense swimming pool and a ‘sauna world’. Swooning views of the deep, rolling hills of Bieszczady make it all the better.

Ustrzyki Dolne, arlamow.pl Doubles from zł. 340

Created in collaboration with the acclaimed French bodyworks brand L’Occitane, there’s a touch about Siedmiu Stawów that brings to mind Provence: inside this 16th century Renaissance castle, interiors have a rugged chic about them with plenty of exposed stone walls and hefty timber touches. Be pampered inside vaulted spa chambers before heading out to explore the spectacularly bucolic grounds. To spoil yourself, book the prestige senior suite: here, a chic modern interior gives way to a wooden-decked terrace with a bubbling jacuzzi.

Niemcza, uroczysko7stawow.pl Doubles from zł. 530

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Sp Par ot tne lig r ht

Unchained Melody

It’s the eternal dilemma – what to choose, a cooling ice cream or a piping hot waffle? At Melody we’ve found the solution: have both!

Combining these two summer favorites to make a bubble-waffle, we serve crispy, fluffy waffles topped with homemade, artisanal gelato. Among our best-sellers, try salted caramel, lemon with verbena or almonds with macarons. And we’re not just for summer. In colder times visit us for expertly made French macarons. Gluten free and 100% natural, find 16 flavors available daily.

Melody Al. Jana Pawła II 43A / Francuska 48 (all year), ul. Nowogrodzka 15 / Nocny Market (May till October)

NEWSFLASH! A star-studded ceremony at the end of March saw the

release of Michelin’s latest guide to the Main Cities of Europe. Both Senses and Atelier Amaro retained their stars, whilst Ale Wino found themselves recipients of a coveted Bib Gourmand. Other new entrants to the tome included Dyletanci, Mokotowska 69 and Kieliszki na Hożej.

It’s A Wrap!

Inspired by an epic road journey across the States (and a quick side trip to Amsterdam!), Urban Burritos began life as a Dutch-style food bike before opening our first bricks and mortar outlet on April 22nd, 2016. We’ve always wanted to provide people with simple, real food that makes them happy, and burritos seemed the perfect match. Making everything from scratch, we’re firm believers that ‘real’ tastes only come from nature – that’s why we’re the freshest Mex in town! Join us at our Piękna address on the 22nd to help us mark our second birthday in style!

Urban Burritos ul. Piękna 22, urbanburritos.pl

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Tr aditional Polish cuisine served in a modern way Pod Nosem Restaurant ul. Kanonicza 22, 31-002 Krakรณw tel.: +48 12 376 00 14 www.podnosem.com

Pod Nosem

Wawel Castle

100m

NEW ORIENTAL TOUCH We invite you to enjoy a splendid culinary journey through China!

Our professional team will create the perfect event for you – we were born to organize!

- communion meals - wedding parties - company meetings - conferences & workshops - events

Ul. Pańska 85 For Reservations tel. 512 671 756 22 253 30 30 panska85.com

EAT!

PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

SUPER NOODLES

Already high on the phenomenal success of, first, Dziurka od Klucza, and then, La Sirena, owners Agnieszka and Stanisław Szpilowski are looking to score the perfect hat-trick with Arigator, a Japanese-style noodle joint whose interior whisks you to the narrow, steamy back alleys of late night Tokyo. Clad in corrugated iron and dark, weathered wooden slats, it’s got that buzzing sense of chaos that feels familiar from the films – at any given moment you expect a group of excited salarymen to burst into song. And the food, gosh, they get that right as well. From a tiny menu order up dainty pork dumplings, braised kakuni bacon or deep-fried tofu before hitting up a feisty bowl of ramen emanating life-affirming goodness. A complex tangle of interlacing flavors, it’s the sort of dish you’d happily queue up for: and yes, you might have to.

Arigator ul. Piękna 54

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Eat! Reviews

a passionate exploration of the Polish soul,

these are big tastes and flavors presented with flair

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Zielony Niedźwiedź ul. Smolna 4, kafezn.pl

THE NAME OF THE GAME A trip to Zielony Niedźwiedź hits the mark…

O

ne of the best things about spring? For me, that’s being able to walk to a restaurant without risking frostbite. No more of that door-to-door in an Uber nonsense, it’s a time in which to soak up the kindness of the season’s hand and watch the city merge back into the world of color; sat at the bottom of a steep, leafy incline, just reaching the Bear feels like an outdoorsy thrill.

Looking nonchalantly chic, it’s a comfortable spot from which to watch the spring unfold. With views of the park outside, you feel a connection to nature that’s rare in Warsaw.

Not missing a beat, the menu expands on this association with a frequently changing offer that places seasonality at its core; a passionate exploration of the Polish soul, these are big tastes and flavors presented with flair. Most striking of all, it’s the Bear’s game dishes that really do the most to truly surmise the spirit of the nation.

SECRET SOURCE

Recognized as one of the top huntsmen in the country, the Green Bear sources it’s game from Jerzy Golbiak, a specially licensed huntsman that stresses the importance of a one shot kill (yep, your nice plate of Bambi didn’t appear by magic). Operating in the dark forests of Podlasie and Polesie, Golbiak emphasizes the need to immediately process the animal’s flesh to ensure maximum taste and freshness.

GAME OVER?

The deer season might have closed, but that need not spell the end of the game. Lean yet also rich and complex, order pheasant instead: served with wild rice stuffed inside cabbage, pearl barley, Jerusalem artichoke and a sprinkle of cranberries, it’s a distinctive delicacy that chimes to the tune of rural Poland. warsawinsider.pl

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Eat! Reviews

THE BEAUTY FROM THE EAST

Ukrainian cuisine receives a daring, modern spin..

T

here’s no kind way to put it: Ukrainian cuisine has an image problem. Whilst those of us in Warsaw are now used to Polish food being presented with finesse and a flourish, the cuisine of our eastern neighbors remains treated with suspicion: “just peasant food, ’innit?” Well, it doesn’t have to be, and at Kanapa it most certainly isn’t. Casting a new light on this unexplored kitchen is this special new entry on the local gastro landscape.

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Kanapa ul. Narbutta 10, fb.com/kanapa.restauracja

THE PLACE

Swish and fancy, this pristine detached villa was completed in 1933 and designed by architect Feliks Siedlanowski to serve as a family home for himself and his Ukrainian wife, Ina. In the decades after it was assigned to the Syrian ambassador as his swanky private residence, a function it held till 2015. That air of grandeur survives to this day; noted for its sweeping spiral staircase and theatrical chandelier, the reception hall alone causes you to pause. Thereafter, you’re best asking for a tour – spaced over three floors, it’s a thoughtful essay in understated elegance: antique and classy, yet with enough eclectic touches to add that little sense of home.

THE FOOD

You can tell a lot about a place from the bread they choose to offer. At Kanapa, though, it’s not just the bread they get right, but the butter as well – presented in the form of a candle, with the wick subsequently lit, the buttery wax-like ooze is scooped on the bread then promptly devoured. It’s not just novel, but tasty as well.

By this point, you’ve probably realized this isn’t going to be a place of grey gloop and humble flavors, and so it proves. Little blobs of pike caviar, fried dill, carp mousse and oyster cream arrive on a delicate, crispy fish skin; balanced and refined, these are tastes that reflect the cunning of the chef. Then, a Jerusalem artichoke filled with dried tomatoes and smoked sour cream; almost like a croquette, it melts inside the mouth with a reassuring tang. Original in every

respect, this is cooking that feels adventurous in style yet traditional in its taste: full of warming goodness, there’s an intelligence to the combinations that’s a credit to the kitchen.

WE’D RETURN FOR…

The borsch. A meal in itself, find it presented inside a huge, hollowed out cabbage. Incorporating cooked beetroot, stewed pears and plums, chunks of meat and a wallop of sour cream, it’s vigorous, whole-hearted and blood red to look at. A complex expression of the Ukrainian soul, these are rich, raucous flavors that spread around the body to leave an inner glow. You could pair it with a Ukrainian wine, but you’d be better off asking for a shot of the house firewater: mixing vodka with lemon, honey, horseradish and garlic, it’s a potent little drop that leaves you feeling like the Incredible Hulk. Rargh!

WE’D DIE FOR…

Served inside a customized can, the chicken / duck / carrot pate has a velvet smoothness and huge hit of flavor. If you don’t have it here, then order it to go.

FINAL THOUGHTS

If Ukrainian fine dining sounds like an anomaly then rest assured it isn’t. Perfectly put together, Kanapa seems to work on every conceivable level – and yes, that includes price. With mains averaging out at zł. 75 and a tasting menu available for zł. 149, it’s one of genuinely great deals you’ll find in this town. warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings By in large, you can expect to pay between zł. 20-35 for starters, and zł.

35-70 for mains. Expect those prices to double in the case of the city’s fine dining venues. Those wishing to cut costs should seek out the weekday business lunch deals now offered by most restaurants. When tipping, 10-20% is considered polite though be aware of automatic service charges in some venues.

Home delivery by daily.pl

american 36 bakeries 36 balkan 36 british 37 burgers & street food 37 chinese 37 fine dining 37 french 39 georgian 39 greek & turkish 40 hungarian 40 indian 41 indonesian 41 international 41 italian 46 japanese & sushi 48 jewish 49 korean 50 latin & spanish 50 mexican 51 middle eastern 51 polish 53 scandinavian 58 seafood 58 specialty food shops 59 steak houses 60 thai 60 vegan 61 vietnamese 62

american Brooklyn Restaurant & Bar Gone are the fancy pants culinary creations once found in the basement, ousted in favor of a menu of pimped-up soul and street food, salads and steaks.

This means fresh tacos not to mention the best-selling ‘Mito’s Beef Ribs’. The ground floor burger bar is more prosaic, offering a standard line-up of burgers and wings. (C4) Al. Jana Pawła II 18 Hard Rock Café Instantly recognizable by the giant neon guitar outside, Hard Rock has a pierced staff of skater boys and rock girls and a menu that is, if nothing else, completely reliable. Peruse rock’n’roll swag that includes Joplin’s blouse, Prince’s guitar and Shakira’s pants. (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, hardrockcafe.pl Koko & Roy Spotlighting ‘New American Cuisine’, the thrust here is on comfort food, albeit several steps beyond what you’d rustle up at home: the Odds & Ends (deep fried pigs tails and chicken hearts tumbled into a big bowl and served with pickled red onions and a lash of sriracha aioli) are bold, unexpected and utterly delicious. The work of an American / Polish husband and wife, Koko & Roy feels fun, innovative and pleasingly casual – a bit like visiting friends who really know how to cook. Much like visiting friends, alcohol too also plays its part: in this case, generous cocktails made to NYC specifications.

Take it all in inside a brill interior that’s all Sputnik lights, intriguing artwork and mustard-toned finishes. (D5) ul. Wilcza 43

bakeries Aromat That many consider this their favorite bakery says it all. French flour and an expert baker ensure brilliant results, while the lemon éclairs deserve their own Facebook page. (C4) ul. Sienna 39, fb.com/piekarnia.aromat Café Vincent Queues build quickly as locals line up

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to buy baguettes, cinnamon rolls, lemon croissants and beautiful pains au chocolat.

But people don’t just head in then out, a small wine list and brilliant people spying opportunities cause many to hang around.

(D3) ul. Nowy Świat 64 Charlotte While the fancy crowd isn’t to everyone’s liking, the atmosphere feels truly continental: even more so in warm weather when the terrace packs out. (D6) Al. Wyzwolenia 18 (enter from pl. Zbawiciela), bistrocharlotte.com Paul Specializing in pastries, baguettes and other baked goods, this French chain have rapidly entrenched themselves in the capital following their debut last year.

Various locations, boulangeries-paul.com Qki QKI is the work of two sisters (in-law!) with a passion for the sweeter things in life. Shunning shortcuts and artificial nasties, cookies, cakes and pastries comprise the bulk of the offer here. ul. Topiel 19 & ul.

Belgradzka 14, qki.waw.pl Rozbrat 20 Bakery & Wine Corner Best known for fathering Butchery & Wine, Daniel Pawełek makes his mark on Powiśle with the launch of Rozbrat 20, a high-end bakery that’s worthy of the rave reviews. Breakfast here is among the best you’ll find in Warsaw. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 20, rozbrat20.com.pl SAM Co-owner Małgorzata Kusina-Doran is a fine-bread connoisseur, honing her skills at a bread-making course chaired

by Raymond Blanc. While SAM have expanded to cover numerous locations, this has not been to the cost of the overall quality. many locations, sam.info.pl

balkan Ba Adriatico As a starter, then the grilled peppers stuffed with creamy, regional cheese are irresistible. But then so too the octopus salad. Mains are a victory of simplicity, with dishes like skewered minced beef served with a bitey sauce and a soft, pillowy Lepinja bread. Yet ignore Thursday

EAT! Listings seafood night at your peril. Croatian-run, this neighborhood spot has an unassuming air that belies the general quality. (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 50/52, ba-adriatico.pl Banja Luka Lots of clunky timber and imported ceramics set the scene at this eatery, a Balkan stalwart that’s known for its economical pricing structure and bulky portions. Grilled meats are prominent and the food largely reliable. (E8) ul. Szkolna 2/4, tel. 22 828 1060, banjaluka.pl

british

comfortably familiar: Philly cheese steak served inside fresh pitta bread; Polish white sausage in a thick corn sauce; and boczek that’s soft in parts and crackly in others – lathered in a thick gloss of plum glaze, it’s a dish that sets off fireworks.

(C4) Corner of ul. E. Plater / Świętokrzyska, fb.com/meatwarsaw

Okienko When the chips are down and you’re looking for emergency nourishment, then join the queue outside Okienko: serving Belgian-style frites in paper cones, this street-side hatch is a true window of life.

The roster of sauces, written up in marker pen on the wall tiles, are often superb. (D7) ul. Polna 22

Ę Rybę A couple of places have tried to emulate the taste of the British seaside, but this is the de facto codfather. Here’s a spot where the chips are golden, the fish fresh and the batter crisp and light. Now also serving British breakfast, albeit at a time when most normal people will have already eaten. (E4) Al. Jana Pawła II 18, erybe.pl

burgers & street food Barn Burger Retaining a loyal crowd ever since their 2012 entry on the burger circuit, Barn Burger offer a loud and lively atmosphere and much celebrated burgers with goofy names like Heart Attack and Muppet.

The list by the door notes the results of their American-style eating competitions / greed-fests. (D4) ul. Złota 9. tel. 512 157 567, barnburger.pl Kura Buffalo Wings Looking to revise and rehabilitate the reputation of fried chicken, this cult spot has cool staff, a busy buzz and a tasty selection of strips, wings and homemade sauces: look on it as KFC for the millenial generation. (B2) ul. Nowolipki 15, fb.com/ restauracjakura Meat Warsaw This project sees a cosmic 1960s rotunda revived as a compact eatery whose brief menu is butch and brawny and

Pogromcy Meatów Yearn no more for the elusive flavor of the backyard BBQ. Specializing in grilled meat, find exactly just that loaded into artisan buns alongside locally grown greens. The sense of homespun quality makes this the kind of comfort food that Warsaw has been missing for years. (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, tel. 505 703 508 Warburger While Warsaw has lost its appetite for burgers, you wouldn’t necessarily tell by popping in WarBurger. Set inside a diminutive cabin, join the scrum for jazzed-up burgers that use slow-food ingredients. If not the best, they’re most certainly up there. (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1, warburger.pl

chinese Pańska 85 Ample in size, the interiors speak of money well spent. This is especially true because despite the luxury trimmings Pańska looks good without ever losing its dignity. With their kitchen staff headhunted from across China, the food sets a standard that has yet to be seen in any Chinese restaurant in Warsaw: there’s delicate salmon rolls wrapped in mango; dim sum that are pouches of pure goodness; and Sichuan-style pork that’s a blaze of sizzle and spice. The Beijing Duck, carved and served table-side, is the

highlight. (B4) ul. Pańska 85, panska85. com Regina Bar Stepping past a pair of flowing red drapes at the entrance, guests are ushered in to discover an eclectic world that marries the tastes of New York’s Little Italy to Chinatown next door. This is done excellently with the menu presenting the very essence of ethnic comfort food: General Tso’s chicken, Cantonese roast duck and light, leopard-spotted pizzas. Brought to you by the makers of MOD, it’s therefore natural that the original style extends to kooky interiors tinged with a trace of retro: a tall mirrored wall and the kind of sparkling chandelier last seen in Boogie Nights. (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, fb.com/ Reginabar

fine dining Amber Room at the Sobański Palace Set in the pre-war Pałac Sobańskich, this wedding white manor house is the epitome of luxury: plush, discreet, elegant and serene, it unwraps like the most beautiful of presents – a network of corridors and stairwells take guests through a series of rooms and side-chambers.

Impossibly almost, the food measures up to the surrounds.For mains, the sea trout is spectacular, arriving alongside creamy root parsley and fried cubed cucumbers.

(E6) Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, amberroom.pl Atelier Amaro If Wojciech Amaro’s eponymous restaurant isn’t the most famous in the country, then it’s certainly the most important.

Awarded Poland’s first Michelin star in 2013, it’s a venue that continues to set the pace in terms of innovation. Changing weekly, his ‘calendar of nature’ seeks to present forgotten ingredients such as little-known berries, herbs and flowers against meats and other ingredients reared or grown at the Atelier farm. One for any bucket list (gastronomic or not), there are occasions when dining here can feel like an out-of-body experience. (E6) ul.

Agrykola 1, tel. 22 628 5747, atelieramaro.pl Belvedere Łazienki Królewskie Set in an imperial age glass orangery, warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings it’s festooned with intricate latticework and botanical exotica. The updated interiors are the work of acclaimed set designer Boris Kudlicka, and lend a fresh, contemporary tone that goes hand in hand with the menu. But behind the gels and emulsions and pretty little swirls, this is cooking of substantial depth; it’s cooking that takes you to the very soul of Polish nature. ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. 22 558 6701, belvedere.com.pl Chłodna 15 by Wilamowski Gone are the Alice in Wonderland decorations of the previous tenant, La Maison, replaced instead by a muted charcoal look that’s reassuringly refined – for the time you’re here, you forget you’re on the ground floor of a 70s tower block.

Aiding the amnesia is the classic French cooking of Arkadiusz Wilamowski: small and mercurial in its content, the dailychanging menu is a work of preposterous detail – no sauce takes less than a day to make. So the rumors go, Michelin are watching closely. (B3) ul. Chłodna 15 Do Bo Do Invoking the spirit of Eugeniusz Bodo – an interwar screen legend who once owned an arty café at this very address – Warsaw’s latest fine dining spot throws the spotlight on the copious talents of Marek Kropielnicki. His menu is a marriage of local produce, outrageous ideas and precise technique, though so far appears

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to have divided the city’s food critics: full report soon.

L’enfant Terrible Looking like he’s just swaggered in from a rock concert, the unconventional style of Michał Bryś goes beyond surface detail alone. Promising maximum excitement, his imaginative menu isn’t short on daring twists and rollercoaster highs.

Maverick in every sense of the word, this is a chef that pushes boundaries in a way few others would dare. Though the menu changes often, keep an eye on recurring classics such as ‘tomatoes, tomatoes, tomatoes’, a kickass course that presents the humble tomato in about ten different forms! More informal than the other top bracket restaurants, the brainwashed loyalty of Enfant’s fans says much for it. (D8) ul. Sandomierska 13 (enter from Rejtana), tel. 22 119 5705, eterrible.pl N31 Been there, done it all. That’s Robert Sowa, a national treasure widely hailed for modernizing Poland’s gastronomic sector back in the country’s culinary dark days. A common sight on TV, the chef’s public profile has meant there’s no shortage of bums on seats in his flagship restaurant, but this is more than a chef trading on his past. A chic city center bubble beloved by business types, the food is first class with Sowa’s international travels reflected by surprises

such as flawless tuna partnered with kabayaki sauce, yuzu, wasabi dressing and turnip salad. The flavor combinations are exceptional. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 31, n31restaurant.pl

Nolita BEST WAWA 2017 “Fine Dining” For many diners, there is no bigger night out than one that begins and ends in this enclave of class. Dashing in its monochrome colors and muted gunmetal shades, Nolita is where Warsaw heads to live the life of the 1%. Lacking the magic tricks of some, the ‘show factor’ might be subdued but the tastes definitely aren’t.

Who to credit? Two words: Jacek Grochowina. Cooking with poise and focus, his menu is a marriage of the classic and creative, with core ingredients given unexpected lifts with cunning turns and inspired little twists: maybe some yuzu with the tartare or konbu with the eel. (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 292 0424, nolita.pl Platter by Karol Okrasa It’s a fact that Okrasa’s appearances in the kitchen are fleeting and rare, but that’s done nothing to hurt this restaurant’s prestige. Head chef Łukasz Pielak

EAT! Listings has proved to be a lethal assassin, executing the ideas of his mentor with accuracy and passion. The cooking is detailed, balanced and elegant, with the highlight of our visit being deer in plum sauce. A thing of imperial, velvety richness it’s a dish that turns up the volume on a memorable experience. (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (Hotel InterContinental Warsaw), warsaw.intercontinental.com Salto Any Best of Warsaw list wouldn’t be complete without mentioning Salto.

The baby of Martin Gimenez Castro, the chef’s South American influences shine on an a la carte menu that includes corvina ceviche with orange and spices and dry aged steaks worth crossing town for. Mind you, the real riches are on the tasting menu, a six-dish volley of riveting tastes. The inventiveness peaks with elaborate desserts such as cream of roses, marinated lychee ice cream, coconut and beetroot paper. (D5) ul.

Wilcza 73 (enter from Emilii Plater), tel. 22 584 8771, saltorestauracja.pl Senses Diners are best advised to leave logic outside. Inspired by the idea of ‘note-by-note’ cooking, Italian-born chef Andrea Camastra isolates and extracts molecules from ingredients to obtain the purest flavors before matching them up with unlikely partners. What unfolds is a dazzling show of near illusory brilliance; the technical proficiency of the kitchen is exceptional and makes the WTF prices easier to swallow. Wrap-up the evening with a pungent, edible cigar.

(C2) ul. Bielańska 12, tel. 22 331 9697, sensesrestaurant.pl Signature You feel a millionaire just being here: we’ve heard the interiors described as a ‘Monegasque state of mind’, and that’s not a bad way to surmise a décor that’s all about friezes and reliefs dated from the time this was the Soviet Embassy, lavish 1950s Oswald chairs, lighting

by Serge Mouille and original Marilyn photos shot by the acclaimed Milton Greene. Food-wise the restaurant makes a massive splash with a menu that’s clever, creative and pretty. Count on Signature’s seasonally changing desserts providing a happy ending.

(D5) ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 55 38755, signaturerestaurant.pl

french Brasserie Smak A moody, open-plan space overlooking the busy market action of Hala Gwardii, Brasserie is place in which to soak in the atmosphere of this echoey hall. It’s given added impetus by artfully arranged seafood platters, meaty snails and stews that are heavy, robust and thick with goodness. Pl. Zelaznej Bramy 1 (Hala Gwardii) L’Arc Looking elegant with its black/white floors and subtle decorations bills at L’Arc can become big number affairs – especially if you hanker for seafood. Pick from numerous types of oysters, or delve into the fish tank for the lobster of your choosing. The catchment area extends beyond the borders of Mokotów, not just because of their ‘fresh from France’ seafood, but because of classic dishes such as Mulard duck and Burgundy snails. (E8) ul. Puławska 16, larc.pl

SHEESHA , AU T H E N T I C C U I S I N E , M E E T I N G P L AC E , D R I N KS

La Cocotte Saska Already well regarded on account of a highly successful venture just off Pl. Zbawiciela, La Cocotte have spread their wings to set up shop in scenic Saska. A typical French-style bistro / wine bar, the offer includes a brief but largely brilliant menu whose main strength is its mussels. The wine list is substantial and French-focused and enjoyed by a smart, upmarket audience. (H4) ul. Walecznych 68A

georgian Chinkali Signposted by a Georgian-language shingle, there’s a real sense of pleasure about this place. More modern than your typical folksy ethnic outpost, Chinkali’s draw is indeed its chinkali: dough purses packed with meaty broth. There’s a genuine homemade quality to these slurpy bundles of joy, meaning that while they’re authentic, consistency can vary. And don’t miss out on the red bean chachapuri

dom-faraona.com, O r d y n a c k a 13 warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings washed down with a mouthwash-colored tarragon lemonade. (D4) ul. Zgoda 3 Klukovka Jana Pawła’s pavilions are the unlikely location of this culinary beacon: amid the aggressive waft of its kebab shop neighbors, Klukova presents itself as a warming mouse hole filled with banter, babble and rich aromas. Specializing in the foods of ‘the east’, this means a menu inspired by the tastes of Georgia, Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan, and more. The mutton manty dumplings are great, and best appreciated with a bottle of unfiltered Lithuanian beer. (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 45A, klukovka.pl Rioni Warsaw’s foodies like talking of ‘cursed locations’, and they don’t get more hexed than Mokotowska 17. But despite its history of failed ventures, Rioni feel better placed than most to break the jinx. Set in a curving brick room lit by dangling overhead bulbs, join a young-ish crowd for juicy Georgian dumplings oozing with meat and herbs, hearty soups and big, doughy wheels of cheese-filled chaczapuri. (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17 (enter from Pl. Zbawiciela), rioni.pl Rusiko Explaining Georgian cuisine isn’t all that hard. To the uninitiated, it’s representative of the heart, spirit and passion of its

people, a cuisine the values the concept of the feast: wine, laughter and song find themselves elevated to roles of primary importance. A food of life, spice and whole-hearted tastes, consider Rusiko as the best ambassador there is for this surprisingly diverse kitchen. Live music lends the weekends a good-humored twist.

Note: closed Monday. (E5) Al. Ujazdowskie 22, tel. 22 629 0628, rusiko.pl

greek & turkish

Anatolia Looking dark and moody, Anatolia adds a veneer of sophistication to the traditional Turkish dining experience; presentation, you can tell, is important, but so too is the general sense of replicating the standards of home. Meat finds itself treated with reverence, and that holds especially true when it comes to steak and lamb. Full review coming soon. Pl. Konstytucji 2, anatolia-waw.pl

Maho Maho feels like it’s located at the end

Unique selection of Georgian wines and spirits

tue.-wed. from 1500 to 2300 thu.-fri. from 1500 to 2400 sat. from 1200 to 2400 sun. from 1200 to 2300 address: al. Ujazdowskie 22 00-478 Warszawa email: winebar@rusiko.pl + 48 22 628 45 76

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Warsaw Insider | APRIL 2018

of the earth – but its distance deters no-one, least of all its army of hardcore followers. Why are they there? The answer is a Turkish grill that takes you right to the heart of this glorious cuisine.

Highly recommended is the Iskender kebab: layers of juicy doner meat served with scoops of fresh tomato sauce and fresh, thin pide bread straight from the wood-fired oven. While you’re there, you may as well stock up on imported goodies from their adjoining store. Al. Krakowska 240/242, maho.com.pl Santorini Santorini looks scuffed and tired but there’s a bonhomie present that instantly engages. The kitchen attaches no value to things like presentation, preferring instead to simply treat diners to piles of grilled and skewered food that consistently tastes right. ul. Egipska 7, tel. 22 672 0525, kregliccy.pl/santorini/ Sofra A highly respected Turkish eatery with a wondrous beef mussaka and a wholly admirable lineup of other ethnic dishes: the lamb shashlik has never failed us.

Pleasingly informal, this neighborhood redoubt feels cheerfully unforced, and it becomes an easy place to hang around in.

(C6) ul. Wilcza 71, tel. 731 847 731 Taverna Patris This Greek restaurant is not about sophistication and finesse, it’s about truth and taste. Likewise, the interiors have no airs and graces: there’s a rough and ready style that’s apt for noisy celebrations and familial occasions. Tawerna Patris is not about shallow details or surface appearances. Instead, it’s a place of depth, a place of integrity, a place of joy. (G4) ul.

Wał Miedzeszyński 407, tel 22 357 11 11, tawernapatris.pl

hungarian U Madziara U Madziara looks like it took two days to decorate. No-one goes here to marvel at the interiors though, they go in the knowledge that they’ll find great food at prices all bank cards can support. Chef Gabor’s signature goulash is one of life’s simple pleasures, though the service can

EAT! Listings come across as distracted and inattentive.

(B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 620 1423, umadziara.pl

experience is fantastic, and good news for those stuck out in the depths of Józefów. ul. Patriotów 11 A, house-of-curry.pl

indian

India Express Wola Some notable exceptions / calamities aside, the standard of Indian food in Warsaw is surprisingly high – the problem lies in its ‘sameness’: same recipes, same menus and not enough being done to distinguish one restaurant from the next.

So it’s on this point that the latest branch of India Express really excel – open from 8 on weekdays, the draw here is a breakfast menu that gives a new spin to Indian food.

Bollywood Lounge Known for their raucous dusk-till-dawn parties, there is another less hedonistic roll filled by Bollywood: that of a restaurant. The menu is an uncomplicated, classic affair that’s an ideal primer for the party ahead. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, tel. 22 827 0283, bollywoodlounge.pl Bombaj Masala Not just the best looking of Warsaw’s Indian restaurants, Bombaj Masala also has the best cooking. With so many restaurants reliant on one ‘master pot’ for their curry, this classy venue feels unique in delivering a plethora of rich, intense tastes. The vindaloo is a special standout, with big, punchy flavors that leave you tingling pleasantly long after you leave.

(B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 606 688 777, bombajmasala.pl

Curry House Ask for something extra hot in Curry House and by Vishnu that’s what you’ll get. Yet at Curry House there is more to sing about than just Poland’s highest voltage vindaloo. The curries are rich and sumptuous and consistently cited as among the best in the city. If in doubt, the chicken tikka masala is a fail-safe request. ul. Żeromskiego 81 & ul. Hoża 54 & ul. Towarowa 35, curry-house.pl Curry Leaf The post-industrial style is diluted by the number of Indian trinkets hanging off the vents and pipes. Owned by the same crew behind the lauded Curry House, you’d be completely correct to assume consistency and excellence. ul. Conrada 5, curryleaf.pl House of Curry Heat seekers can ‘enjoy’ a genuine deathby-fire experience at House of Curry, though far milder curries are available for more sensitive palettes – either way, the

(B4) ul. Sienna 87, indiaexpress.pl

Mandala Mandala is characterized by its blitzing big spices and a vindaloo capable of giving the sweat glands a work out. For something calmer, the creamy mutton methi malai is a masterpiece. ul. Emilii Plater 9/11 / ul. Etiudy Rewolucyjnej 9 / ul.

Sienna 87, mandalaklub.com or indiaexpress.pl

Mr. India Split on two levels the design is contemporary if a little characterless: leather banquettes that leave a sweaty bum print and wood paneling. No problem though, if it looks bland then the food isn’t.

That means an incredible butter chicken that’s deep and immensely satisfying.

Then there’s the vindaloo, an experience that leaves some close to spontaneous combustion. Undoubtedly one of the best regarded Indian restaurants in this town.

Al. KEN 47, tel. 22 213 0689, mrindia.pl Namaste India Responsible for first bringing quality, budget Indian food to Warsaw, Namaste have grown from humble beginnings (three tables and cooking done in a cupboard-sized space behind a curtain) to evolve into a bona fide two-floored restaurant. But expansion has come at the cost of quality – our last trip (March 2017) promises to be the last for some time.

(D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 15, tel. 22 357 0939, namasteindia.pl Tandoor After nearly 20 years at the helm, owner Charanjit Walia has sold up and moved on, leaving a spiritual hole in his life-defining work. His parting shot has been a re-haul which has seen the interior modernized

and brightened. Has the food suffered?

Not a jot. The chicken tikka butter masala is as formidable as ever. It’s no longer the self-styled, ‘the best Indian restaurant in Poland’, but it’s deservedly retained a loyal core of customers. (D7) ul.

Marszałkowska 21/25, tel. 22825 2375, tandoor.com.pl

indonesian Warung Jakarta The menu has a street foodie edge and is divided into steps wherein diners first pick out their choice of protein, then their rice, before concluding with any vegetables add-ons (e.g. pak choy, green beans or water spinach). While most Warsaw restaurants have a special lunch scheme going on, Warung’s is one that actually warrants a further look: find truly great off-menu dishes that are highly accessible to all levels of income. (D6) ul.

Piękna 28/34

international Aioli This runaway hit has taken Warsaw by storm. It’s a jaunty space with hams hanging from hooks and long communal tables that thrive with life. Aioli’s breakfasts, sandwiches, pastas and pizzas are a lesson in clean, simple pleasure: nothing out of the world, just consistently good. This and the liberal prices mean there’s no shortage of people passing in and out the doors. (D3) ul. Świętokrzyska 18, tel. 22 290 102, aioli-cantine.com Ale Wino Dip through an archway to discover Ale Wino, a beautiful wine bar whose menu has been well tailored to the season.

Tweaked for the season is the pork belly, a Złotnicka pig adorned with apple sugar snap peas and celery mousse – gorgeous.

As for the wine, put your faith in the sommelier, Oliver. (F5) ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 628 3830, alewino.pl Bazar Kocha Designed to evoke the spirit of a farmers’ market, the woodsy interior is filled with stall-style units neatly stacked with jars warsawinsider.pl

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Finest Authentic Indian Cuisine in Locations Around Warsaw

WWW.CURRY-HOUSE.PL

HOŻA 54

536 443 771

ŻEROMSKIEGO 81 508 870 774

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PATRIOTÓW 11A, FALENICA 512 533 415

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Warsaw Insider | APRIL 2018

EAT! Listings and pots. Yet these are not decorative decoys, but part of a thoughtful grocery offer aimed at showcasing Kocha’s own-made produce. Above all though, this is a restaurant whose menu is strongly influenced by concepts of ‘terroir’. The giant leg of lamb falls off the bone and is a dish to recommend and remember for several months to come. (D6) ul.

Mokotowska 33, bazarkocha.pl The Bell The sense of casual chic extends to an intelligent menu that’s been designed by the gifted Jan Piecuch. On the Insider’s visit (summer 2017) highlights were numerous and frequent and included a sorrel soup with chickpeas and pomegranate; an exquisite halibut and miso; and aged entrecote served with the kind of chips you’ve waited all your life for. (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 21, thebell.pl Bez Tytułu A beautifully decorated restaurant on trendy Poznanska. The menu has French and Polish accents and reflects the chef’s creative streak well. (D5) ul. Poznańska 16, beztytulu.com Bibenda The menu declares Bibenda to be ‘a celebration of food, drink and togetherness’, and that’s precisely what it is.

Augmenting the warm, busy interiors are a thoughtful selection of craft beers and a concise menu that varies from monthto-month. The apparent simplicity of the food is illusory and belies the kitchen’s knack for spotting interesting combinations such as goose with pumpkin puree, cranberry / red wine jam and chili caramelized beetroot. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 10, tel. 502 770 303, bibenda.pl Brasserie Warszawska Looking for classic cuisine with no daft flights of fancy? Here you have it. At a time when everyone wants to be Ferran Adrià, Brasserie has both a menu and interior that you can understand: panfried foie gras; elegant beef Rossini; and sinful apple tarte tatin, all served inside posh interiors of zinc-plated mirrors and chessboard floors. Their Michelin Bib Gourmand is a source of pride, but it’s the number of repeat clients that are the ultimate paean to the skills of the chef.

(E5) ul. Górnośląska 24, tel. 22 628 9423,

brasseriewarszawska.pl Bubbles Occupying a small, square room, it’s intimate and relaxed: a place busy with blackboards and bottles, crates and clutter. It radiates warmth and honesty.

The food is exquisite, and includes big, meaty snails farmed in Mazury, and their signature dish: Swiss-style raclette.

Presented on a wooden chopping board, this cheese dish is classic melty goodness, and served alongside a pile of potatoes, onions marinated with caramel and candied pumpkin. Considering the place doubles as a champagne bar the prices are remarkably moderate. (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 512 540 913, bubbles. com.pl Casablanca Biały Kamień From the same team behind Na Lato comes Casablanca, a versatile venue that muddies the lines between café, restaurant, wine bar and hangout. Equally comfortable in each of these roles, it’s a place that feels fresh and cosmopolitan, not to mention completely in tune with the swank, glass surrounds. More to the point, it’s given wings to a part of Mokotów that before felt quite sterile. ul. Żaryna 2B, casablancawaw.com.pl Concept 13 You’d expect a rooftop meal at Poland’s ultimate luxury department store to cost the earth, but that’s not the case. The zł. 50 lunch deal allows Joe Public to enjoy the considerable skills of Dariusz Barański. That he manages to create different pieces of art each and every afternoon is a testament to his talent – fellow chefs and foodies privately talk of him as a Michelin star in the making. (D4) ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7373, likusrestauracje.pl Dekant Wine Bar Not just a contender for Warsaw’s best new wine bar, but also Warsaw’s best new restaurant! The tuna tartar comes with the added ka-boom of a nose clearing wasabi, while the filet mignon (a snip at zł. 79) is simply astonishing. The surprise are the ash-cooked potatoes, beautiful things with a char that wows.

The desserts are few in number but equally outstanding: we fell in love with a passion fruit semi-freddo with strawber-

EAT! Listings ries marinated in Grand Marnier. (F5) ul.

Zajęcza 15, dekant.com.pl Der Elefant This leviathan restaurant unravels in a maze of wrought iron and monochrome tiles – beautiful to look at (it was created

by Oscar winning set designer Allan Starski), it’s caused a stir for more than just this alone. Where once the menu looked like it was devised by throwing darts at a cookbook, the focus has now been narrowed. While some of the dishes are strictly middling, the filet mignon (zł. 69) is one of the best meat deals in town in terms of quality / price / consistency. (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, tel. 22 890 0010, derelefant.com Dom Here’s the very epitome of casual dining: set on the ground floor of a suburban house, the warm corners and garden views give Dom a real sense of homey charm. In line with all that is a menu that celebrates simple, honest cooking.

Everyone who visits ends up loving the place. ul. Mierosławskiego 12, tel. 509 165 712 Drukarnia Wrapped inside an ugly 1950s facade, this former printing house unravels to expose a sensational interior high on retro pieces: jagged-shaped stone floor tiles, a red neon and stern Socialist era statuettes lend a heavy PRL accent, though the big statement at Drukarnia is supplied courtesy of the architecture itself. Tall windows, high ceilings and a peculiar spiral staircase that disappears into nowhere collude to lend Drukarnia a sense of light, space and depth. The food: limited choice of European standards cooked with competence. If you’re in the area, worth a look ul. Mińska 65, drukarnianapradze.pl Dyletanci Filled with crisp, modern citizens that radiate confidence, Dyletanci introduces itself as a bistro set with green banquettes and Tom Dixon lamps. The wine selection is among the best in the nation, while the cooking has been left to Rafał Hreczaniuk, a workaholic chef with outrageous talent. His zander fillet thrills with every bite. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44A, dyletanci.pl

Fest Port Czerniakowski Wedged into that narrow strip of land between the river and Port Czerniakowski, Fest feels unique for Warsaw – a place thoroughly isolated from the concrete badlands. But those thinking of this wooden cabin as a one season summer wonder would be overlooking its wider qualities. Of these, the cooking is at the forefront. Simple and straight-forward yet more-ishly addictive, the menu is an atavistic celebration of fire and brawn.

The ribs, cooked in a wood-fired smoker that stands outdoors, have earned this venue a place in local legend. (G6) ul.

Zaruskiego 8 Genesis What the hell is it? Seen as an amorphous blob composed of triangular white plates and large glass panels, Genesis restaurant is an instant head turner. the feeling is of stepping into your own futuristic space adventure. As for the menu, that’s been revamped by the new chef, former Top Chef contestant Paweł Kibart, and makes use of a Mibrasa charcoal oven – apparently the first in Poland. (A4) Pl. Europejski 5, fb.com/genesiswarsaw

‘Simplicity, elegance and atmosphere’

Cafe • Wine Bar • Restaurant • Whisky Bar • Wine Cellar ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 515 037 001 www.hoza.warszawa.pl www.facebook.com/hoza25 Open 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-21:00

Grand Kredens This mighty veteran continues to draw a steady custom on account of a wide-reaching menu that aims to keep everyone happy – and it usually does.

The design is surreal to say the least, and is laid out in such a way as to always guarantee a lively atmosphere. (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 111, tel. 22 629 8008, kredens.com.pl Hala Gwardii Housed in a Tsarist era brick hall, Warsaw’s latest food market / hangout has caused a storm since opening in October. A great tenant mix has seen 25 vendors signed-up, with highlights include raclette from the cool couple at Melt, vegan goodness at Tel Aviv, burgers from the legendary WarBurger and heaps of meat from Brasil On The Plate. Keeping it social are craft beer points, a bio wine stall, and a late night bar that overlooks it all. Open Friday morning through to warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings Sunday night, a visit is essential. (C3) Pl. Mirowska 2, fb.com/halagwardii

Sobramesa Tapas Bar. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63, koszyki.com

Hala Koszyki Integrating old with new, this huge project brings together some 18 food outlets inside a busy interior that’s all iron girders and industrial lighting. While there’s a feeling that there should have been a bigger focus on artisan, independent traders, that’s done nothing to dent Koszyki’s astonishing popularity. Units of note include the Gringo Salsownia, Port Royal Fish & Oyster Bar, and the

InFormal Kitchen There’s plenty of fireworks over the course of a vibrant menu that sources its produce from regional eco farms: meat from within a 26-kilometer radius of Warsaw, dairy produce from Mazury and fish from Pomerania. The rump of lamb is a class act, and bettered only by the pear and thyme tart for dessert. (D3) Pl. Małachowskiego 2 (enter from Traugutta), tel. 531 918 534, informalkitchen.pl

Kieliszki Na Hożej Locally inspired, but with a French twist, the tastes are precise and well-balanced, but also varied enough to give a seemingly simple dishes several interesting sub-plots. From the outside, it looks like something straight from the 6th arrondissement. Through the door, and diners are met head-on by a seductive space that’s dark, intimate and full of gleaming glass: beautiful. (D5) ul. Hoża 41, kieliszkinahozej.pl Kuchnia Otwarta Kuchnia Otwarta have created a swell of excitement that’s rippled way beyond Wilanów. Why? Plotted out by Michał Molenda, the menu is a sincere work based around regional, seasonal produce: nothing contrived, nothing forced, it’s a card that roots out the very best that Poland has to offer. ul. Klimczaka 1 (Royal Wilanów), kuchniaotwarta.pl La Brasserie Modern The interior of Didier Gomez whispers intimacy, yet it also embraces notions of space and light. The casual elegance that emanates from the design is accented by warm colors, low banquettes and glinting mirrors. The menu fits seamlessly with the surrounds: a fresh, modern look at French cuisine, but one that values clarity and simplicity. (D3) ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8332, sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com

A PLACE IN WHICH WINE PLAYS THE FIRST CHORD IN HARMONY WITH WHAT APPEARS ON THE PLATE…

WE WELCOME YOU

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Warsaw Insider | APRIL 2018

Loft Color, that’s what Loft has. It’s everywhere – from the design, which is all bubble shaped lights and splashy, bright cushions, to the drinks: extravagant cocktails that possibly glow in the dark. The menu is full of playful experimentation, something reflected by a seasonal menu that has, in the past, presented such choices as chicken with strawberries. (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 668 016 964, restauracjaloft.pl MOD Chef Trisno’s menu sets his French culinary training against his Singaporean upbringing. The outcome is a card (actually, a printed sheet of paper) that makes for dangerously enjoyable reading: duck hearts with beetroot / soy emulsion and braised red cabbage; duck confit

EAT! Listings with pok choy, soy / red wine sauce and spicy cranberry chutney. Moderate prices and funky décor (a retro mirrored wall, upside down plants hanging from the ceiling) give it an ad hoc edge and plenty of character. Note: by day its Warsaw’s top donut store, so visit at night for their proper menu. (D6) ul. Oleandrów 8, fb.com/ MODOleandrow8 Mokotowska 69 Set inside a rotunda at the tail end of the street, it’s a place that exudes elegance and class. Most of all, however, it’s a restaurant to be enjoyed. Brought to you by the same team credited for Merliniego 5, Mokotowska’s appreciation of steak has been lifted from their elder sister. Yet the virtues of this restaurant extend beyond steak alone: the Insider enjoyed a volley of greats – creamy breaded calf brains, sophisticated smoked eel, and Mazurian crayfish served in a deep, joyous sauce of rowan berry and brandy. (E5) ul.

Mokotowska 69, mokotowska69.com Momu Dominated by meat that’s cooked using the only smoker of its kind in Poland, the menu is comforting and strangely familiar: these are falvors reminiscent of campfire nights – brawny, smoky tastes with towering Reuben sandwiches, juicy steaks, bone marrow and wooden slabs brimming with meats from MOMU’s smokehouse. Impromptu art, tweeting birds and a neo-industrial design add oomph to the busy ambiance. (C2) ul.

Wierzbowa 11, tel. 506 100 001, momu.pl Orzo Functioning until recently as Aioli by Mini, the subsequent re-brand has seen the industrial interiors enhanced by a mother lode of plant life and greenery.

Other changes include the addition of orzo-based dishes as well as a new motto that asserts their connection to ‘people, music, nature’. A cynical attempt to attach themselves to Warsaw’s fad for healthy living, or something more special? We’ll check back soon to check just which it is.

(D6) Pl. Konstytucji 5 Pink Lobster The door clatters shut to divulge a narrow space of tall palm fronds and marble finishes underneath soaring ceilings that seem to stretch on forever. Bursts

of flamingo pink color lend a dapper sense of dazzle to this polished-looking venue. Food is an upscale work that, in spite of the Lobster’s name, awards equal importance to land and sea. Beautifully plated, dishes that the Insider fell for inc. sea bass ceviche, an exquisite exhibition of complex tastes set down in a slash of green on a plate that could pass for a work of sculpture. Immaculate roe deer and a series of extravagant desserts also won praise. (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, pinklobster.pl Plato BEST WAWA 2017 “Neo Bistro” Conceived as a ‘smart casual’ restaurant, it’s a reasonably compact space with a modern style and incandescent bulbs hanging from a complex cat’s cradle of interweaving wires: classy but nothing too flashy or flamboyant. Then there’s the menu, a strange work that sees Spanish influences brushing shoulders next to Polish and Asian. It sounds silly and preposterous but my God it works. December saw us wowed by beef tartar cut from Polish Hereford, an aromatic oriental broth, and a refined halibut encircled with sage pesto, redcurrants and fresh almonds. Stunning. ul. Klimczaka 1 (Royal Wilanow), restauracjaplato.pl Rozbrat 20 Much noise has been made about Rozbrat 20’s bread and wine selection, but their food is also something of a standout. Our trip in December meant twirls of herring pickled in vinegar and herbs and surrounded by a whorl of pond green colors; expertly assembled and boisterously flavored Hungarian foie gras; and a roll of gelatinous pork with ribbons of crispy salsify and a reassuring, fleshy taste. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 20, rozbrat20.com.pl Secado Casual, intimate interiors complement a menu that’s expanded from its original Latin leanings. Everything we’ve tried here has been close to culinary gold, and that includes the surf & turf, tortillas and the roast beef. (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 66, tel.

608 707 799, secado.com.pl Soul Kitchen Bistro If the previous venue was all slanted towards low-pitched business conversation then the new one is positively festive

Great food

Seasoned polish steaks

Wonderful service

Beef n’ Pepper ul. Nowogrodzka 47a tel. +48 785 025 025 mon-sat: 12.00 - 24.00 sun: 12.00 - 23.00

warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings in comparison: scuffed brickwork, tall bar stools, a long communal table, etc.

The seasonal menu is a pick-and-mix of small-to-medium plates, including a halibut gravlax, whose delicate taste juxtaposes well against the rougher, earthier kick of the radish, and crayfish presented in a bird’s nest of green beans, fennel and leek. For mains, look for the braised beef. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 18A, soulkitchen.pl Stixx It’s easy to distrust a menu with such international diversity, but the kitchen crew really make it come together: the Indian section is particularly outstanding. Then there’s the design, a balance between slick corporate and sexy cosmopolitan: with the Warsaw Spire towering above it outside, it’s the kind of address to take any new arrival who still thinks of Poland as being backward. (A4) Pl. Europejski 4A, tel. 22 340 4040, stixx.pl Strefa If there’s a dining room in heaven, then it probably looks like Strefa – only marginally less white. Pure and pristine, the swan-like elegance of the interior whispers dignity and decorum.

Immaculate and refined, it’s a soothing atelier with a rarefied air. Mostly though, it’s the food that people talk about. Citing Nordic cuisine as his primary influence, chef Łukasz Andruszkiewicz has honed a menu of note which, on our November visit, included a deep and soothing mushroom soup the brought to mind Poland’s dark autumn forest. The tastes are clear and true and say much for a chef that has his brain switched on. (C3) ul. Próżna 9, tel.

22 255 0850, restauracjastrefa.pl

Warszawski Sznyt Warsaw’s historic center is rightly glorified for many reasons – its restaurants, however, are not one of them. In fact, there’s probably nowhere in the city with a higher concentration of sub-par efforts. Aiming to redress the balance are Sznyt, an ambitious venue with swank interiors overlooking the Royal Castle, and a kitchen staff headhunted from blue ribbon venues such as Salto and Amaro.

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Warsaw Insider | APRIL 2018

Set over two floors (one focused on Polish cuisine, the other on ‘international’), the pride of the house is afforded to the wood-fired grill. (D2) ul. Senatorska 2, warszawskisznyt.pl Weranda Bistro Warmly decorated with shrubbery and dangling paper decoys, Weranda’s design is thoughtful enough to be in equilibrium with the wider Koszyki setting, yet sufficiently distinct to stand apart from the crowd. Kudos, as well, to the food.

Celebrated for their salads, don’t expect to be pecking on morsels of rabbit food – instead, pepare for huge, leafy affairs assembled to look complex and intriguing.

Recommended is the Croatian salad which rrives ensconced inside jumbo leaves of lettuce and cascading with mango, shrimps, goat cheese and much more besides. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki), weranda.pl Winsky Opened in November, Winsky have made a blistering start to life with early points scored for their selection of edgy ‘tap wines’ and menu of small plates – though mainly Polish in spirit, there’s enough international twists and turns to keep things varied. The design, with its deep sofas and riverside views, feels refined and considered – the kind of place you’d impress a first date. (F4) ul. Wioślarska 10

italian Ave Pizza The argument over who serves Warsaw’s best pizza goes right to the wire, but there’s no doubting that Ave Pizza are up there on the leaderboard. Set across a sparse, metropolitan area, this fashionable L-shaped joint comes endorsed by the capital’s notoriously picky Italian community. Order the pillowy calzone and you’ll soon learn why. (E3) ul. Topiel 12, tel.

22 828 8507, avepizza.pl Bordo Offering a breakfast menu from 9 onwards, Bordo starts busy and finishes even busier. Find simple but accurately reproduced Italian recipes and wood-fired pizza ovens that are expertly manned.

(D4) ul. Chimelna 34, bordo.com.pl

Delizia The sheer proliferation of Italian restaurants lends an element of chance to dining out: cut through the noise by visiting Delizia, a place that’s consistently topped polls ever since it launched in 2010. Lorenzo’s cooking is upscale Italian with a contemporary twist, and comes presented by Luca, an ebullient ball of energy who patrols the floor with sparkling good humor. In the hands of these two an unforgettable night comes guaranteed. Top quality imported products, a dimly-lit romantic atmosphere, a tasteful design and faultless food: no wonder so many rate this as their favorite Italian. (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 22 622 6665, delizia.com.pl Dziurka od Klucza An enchanting locale in which enigmatic, lavender-painted doors sit embedded into the walls, as if waiting to be magically opened by the mysterious keys that hang from the numerous interior details. Set with empty picture frames and cotton ball lights, interiors just don’t get any cuter.

As for food, the concise, daily-changing menu is centered around homemade pasta – pride of place is given to the black colored pasta served with seafood. (E3) ul. Radna 13, tel. 500 150 494, dziurkaodklucza.com.pl Focaccia The Insider’s visit went something like this: wrist-thick octopus with an arc of yellow mousse, conversation stopping beef tenderloin alongside a glistening pool of madeira sauce and then an orange ice cream with caramel and ginger that soon merged into a big gooey brew of chocolatey mess. The only surprise is there’s no Italian in the kitchen – it appears they don’t need one. This is seriously talented cooking inside an interior that fresh and light and reflective of the food. (D2) ul. Senatorska 13/15, tel.

22 829 6969, focaccia.pl Mąka i Woda Purists applaud an approach that uses a custom-made oven from Naples and imported ingredients such as 00 Caputo flour and DOP certified San Marzano tomatoes. Scrupulously authentic, it’s no wonder that it’s packed to the gunnels every night of the week – even their Facebook page warns of 20-minute

EAT! Listings waiting times for a table alone. (D4) ul.

Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 91 87 Otto Pompieri Off-hand there’s about three or four pizzerias in Warsaw that really get it right, but Otto, this place gets it righter. If that’s not a word then apologies, the thing is that’s exactly what it is. The artichoke pizza is an orgy of melty greatness, but it’s the margherita that’s the king: larger than the plate it’s served on, it’s a celestial experience from start to finish. What about the place itself? It looks every bit as delicious as it tastes. Set within the former, pre-war Hotel Saski, from the outside it shines amid the grind of Pl. Bankowy like a diamond in the rough.

Inside, it’s retro Little Italy – only new, polished, slick. (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, fb.com/ otto.pompieri Sexy Duck Marketing themselves as a ‘craft Italian kitchen’, Sexy Duck make a

song and dance about artisan this and that while never justifying their own hyperbole. Were they not so keen to tell you otherwise, you’d mistake the food as being something from a mid-market high street chain enterprise. Pl. Konstytucji 3, tel. 22 400 3737 Si From the makers of Secado comes a new downtown venture: Si, a fun Italian stop with homemade pasta, an array of pizza and a hefty choice of cocktails. Geared towards good times, a list of rotating daily offers has done a fair job of drumming up trade. (C3) ul. Marszałkowska 115

japanese & sushi Benihana Fire, flash, show and sizzle: the Benihana

experience merges cooking with cabaret with diners sat ringside around teppanyaki grills. These cooking stations are the stage for the Benihana crew to demonstrate their riveting range of nifty knifework and daredevil antics. Outside of the realm of the grill, the sushi is also strikes the right spot. (C4) ul. Twarda 2/4, benihanapoland.com Fat Buddha Immense in size, there’s a confident feeling of decadent ostentation: with light kept at bay by vast mulberry-colored drapes, what would otherwise appear as an over-sized hall feels intimate and sensual, dark and delicious. Japanese in spirit, the menu pitches a refined selection of exceptional dishes – elaborate dragon rolls; delicate gyoza; and beef tataki that’s lightly seared and thinly sliced. It’s all perfect. (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 2/4 Gabriel de Garcia & Sakana Just when sushi in Warsaw was becom-

La Brasserie Moderne is a modern interpretation of traditional brasserie designed to bring the taste of the French art de vivre right to your table. Discover a seasonal menu skillfully composed by chef Maciej Majewski by combining the finest culinary traditions of France with local flavors and a modern twist.

Our open kitchen will complement your dining experience by creating a sense of participation in a live culinary show.

La Brasserie Moderne, visit us Mon.-Sat. noon-midnight | Królewska St 11 | 00-065 Warsaw | Tel. +48 22 657 83 82 | Email: brasserie.moderne@sofitel.com | www.facebook.com/brasserie.moderne

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2016-08-16 11:50:59

EAT! Listings ing boring, along comes Gabriel de Garcia with a head full of ideas. Having worked under some of the planet’s top chefs (Juan Maria Arzak, Quiqe Dacosta), de Garcia has sought to bring his experiences together to hone a menu that fuses Spanish tastes with Japanese influences.

The denouement is bold, creative, almost visionary in fact. (D2) ul. Moliera 4/6 Kago Sushi A place of such merit that it’s worth bludgeoning your way through the surging crowds of off-duty lawyers and second rate ‘slebs. A side project from the team behind Izumi, portioning here is strict and skimpy, but the precision, attention to detail and flavors are second to none.

Bills creep up fast as you opt for ‘just one more nigiri’, but such is the brilliance that complaints are rare. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki), kagosushi.pl Sato Gotuje Signposted by its own splash of Manga-

style art adorning the exterior wall, this Commie era pavilion feels small and squashed and assembled on a budget.

Who cares? No-one. An exciting departure from the norm – no sushi here – the menu is a selection of bitey Japanese street food such as grilled mackerel fillet with shavings of grated radish. Prices and quality ensure you don’t stop until you’ve gobbled your way through much of the menu. ul. Pawińskiego 24 Tomo While Warsaw’s other sushi stops gather cobwebs Tomo packs out each night – that should say enough. With the maki, sushi and sashimi bobbing past on wooden platters, this place aims for fast, maximum turnover without ever making the diner feel second best. (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2344, tomo.pl Uki Uki How much do the locals appreciate Warsaw’s original udon bar? Enough to queue

outside the door? That’s right. Dining is a close quarters experience here, but is done so without complaint: that electric pasta maker turns out noodles of such chewy goodness that everyone leaves beaming. (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, tel. 728 827 705, ukiuki.pl Wabu Sushi becomes a heaven’s gate spiritual experience in Wabu with the evening passing in a blur of beautiful compositions, of silky slithers of fish crowned with expert pinches of this, and little brush strokes of that. That’s all elevated even further by deliciously upscale interiors befitting of the Spire location. (A4) Pl. Europejski 2 (Warsaw Spire), wabu.pl

jewish Tel Aviv Although this multicultural melting pot is

Krakowskie Przedmieście 64 tel. +48 22 826 4770 email. info@delicjapolska.pl www.delicjapolska.pl

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EAT! Listings best-known for its Israeli street food, it’s the shift towards ‘vegan fine dining’ that has really caught the attention. (D5) ul.

Poznanska 11, restauracjatelaviv.pl

korean The Cool Cat Reinventing itself to serve pimped-up plates of ‘Americanized Korean’, this fun spot has come on in leaps and bounds since opening two years back. Highlights: K-fries (kimchi, bulgogi beef, chips – messy, delicious), a dessert that saw a heap of matcha tea ice cream stuffed inside a donut (no words for how clever that is), and a Kimchi Mary cocktail that was topped with strips of crunchy bacon.

(F4) ul. Solec 38, tel. 787 698 700 Koreanka A courtyard cubbyhole that’s scuffed, informal and fashionably ramshackle.

Such has been the stir created by it, diners arrive in the knowledge that they’ll be scavenging a table and eating what little might be leftover from another sell-out day. Yet here’s the point of contention: is it really all that’s cracked up? The kimchi is exemplary, but not everything works so well. Though raved about by Warsaw’s Instagrammers, we were left disenchanted by the shallow, empty tastes of the bulgogi. (D6) ul.

Koszykowa 59 KoreaTown Rest Here, the ubiquitous KFC (Korean fried chicken) is all crunch and crackle and the bulgogi tender, juicy and the right side of sweet; accompanying them, an assortment of bitey dishes heaving with chilli flecked kimchi, daikon radish and pickled bits and bobs. All very good, but nothing compared to the bossam, braised pork belly scooped up by hand inside glistening perilla leaves: it’s a dish that soothes, gratifies and leaves diners looking every

bit as pleased as the pipe-smoking tiger that gazes from the wall. (E9) ul. Olesińska 2, fb.com/KoreaTownRest Powidoki Set in the cool white cube that is the Museum of Modern Art, you’d think that Powidoki’s riverfront location would make it a highly seasonal destination.

Not so. Though the menu’s brief and the background highly casual, the Korean choices feel more sophisticated and complex than anywhere else, a point that serves to keep business brisk.

Served in a turmeric tomato sauce, the pork dumplings are an almost compulsory order. (E2) ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 22

latin & spanish Casa Pablo “We give Spanish food a new twist,”

The recently opened restaurant and bar Mokotowska 69 is a perfect place for those who enjoy refined food and excellent wine. The restaurant offers classic Polish dishes with a modern twist, delicious steaks and a wide range of wine from all over the world. Mokotowska 69 was designed for those who enjoy Polish cuisine and those who would like to try classic Polish dishes with a modern twist, such as Mazurian crayfish in rowan brandy cream sauce, roasted catfish with pearl barley and beets or roasted duck with pears and blackcurrant. The restaurant also specialises in steaks made from American Black Angus (certified prime grade by the USDA), Scottish Aberdeen Angus and the highest quality Japanese Tajima-gyu cattle, “Kobe-style”: class 5, marbling 9+.

ul. Mokotowska 69, tel. (+48 22) 628 73 84 / (+48 22) 627 20 33, www.mokotowska69.pl

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EAT! Listings declares chef Gonzalo de Salas, which explains why, in between pungent cheeses and acorn-fed Bellota ham, we find ourselves demolishing a variety of dishes that buck all notions of tradition: as a starter the beetroot-marinated salmon served with wasabi emulsion is a fine example of this. With de Salas performing balletic tricks in the kitchen, Casa Pablo presents a masterful menu that ripples with adventure. (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5A, tel.

22 324 5781, casapablo.pl Tapas Gastrobar The popular practice is to order so many plates and bottles that the table becomes a Magic Eye of kaleidoscope patterns.

A great place for sharing and general interaction, the ambiance and quality belies the corporate anonymity of the location. Though the gazapcho is first class it’s bettered by the patatas bravos: fried potatoes in a ballsy tomato sauce.

(A4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 251 1310 Restaurante Bunuel Spanish-owned Bunuel has left many in raptures. Simple interiors focus attention on the food, which in this case involves a crisp gazpacho that gets you missing summer, and grilled meats that leave many in a swoon. (H4) ul. Walecznych 61, tel. 798 659 554, bunuel-restauracja.com

mexican Dos Tacos Who doesn’t like asking for something that’s ‘under the counter’. In the case of Dos Tacos, doing so means inquiring about their range of ‘salsa clandestinas’: extra hot sauces designed for reckless thrill-seekers. But the true secret weapon at Dos Tacos is Isabel Balderas, a Mexican chef that has mastered the bright, bold tastes of her native country. This cuisine has enjoyed a breakout year in Warsaw, but while the millennials clamor over new food trucks and funky little start-ups, Dos Tacos is a timely reminder that the old guard sometimes know best. (D4) ul.

Jasna 22, tel. 22 243 4618, dostacos.pl Gringo Bar A Mexican wave is upon us, and high time too. After years of suffering frozen ingredients, timid flavors and daft

Mariachi music to persuade us it’s all authentic, a raft of new cut-price eateries are showing the rest how it’s done.

Cooked and folded by fist bumping lads in back-to-front caps and baggy t-shirts, the food at Gringo is fiery, fresh and full of zing. There are detractors who claim this is a Polonized version of this cuisine, but the informal Gringo remains one of the market leaders. (E9) ul. Odolańska 15, tel.

22 848 9523, gringobar.pl La Sirena You don’t even have to think twice when asked to name the best Mexican in the capital. Inspired by the ultra-violent films of Danny Trejo, the hardcore interior heaves with machetes, holy shrines, skulls and wire mesh; but if La Sirena looks fab, it tastes even better.

Introducing a new dimension to Warsaw’s parched Mexican landscape, highlights inc. poblano peppers stuffed with pork/ beef, peach, apple and apricots, as well as a ‘near death’ salsa that’s finally living up to its name. (D5) ul. Piękna 54 Urban Burritos It’s here, in this unassuming subterranean world, that people gather for what is being hyped as Warsaw’s top burrito.

Offering fillings of pork, beef, chicken and Portobello mushroom, wraps come expertly constructed and served with salsas that sing with gusto. Set within shouting distance of the US Embassy, peak times see Urban Burritos fill to the seams with America’s finest. (D6) ul.

Piękna 22, urbanburritos.pl

middle eastern

Dom Faraona Sitting just off Nowy Świat, this Egyptian restaurant comes soaked in the soothing scent of the sheesha. The comprehensive menu has plenty of zingy Middle Eastern small plates for starters, though really earns its stripes on account of its grill dishes: the lamb ribs are a house specialty. If you like what you see, visit their cafe in CH Panorama. (E4) ul. Ordynacka 13, dom-faraona.com warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings Florentin A quite beautiful, pale-colored dining room that boldly presents the cuisine of modern day Israel. High on North African twists and turns, there’s a creativity at work here that marks Florentin out as one of the most exciting openings in recent times: if in doubt, the veal with harissa, grilled pepper and pear puree is a winning order that deserves full attention. Onto dessert, and make space for the basil panna cotta served with ‘tomato jam’. (E4) ul. Smolna 40, fb.com/ FlorentinWarszawa

Le Cedre With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular

note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops.

(E1) Al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166, lecedre.pl

Le Cedre 84 Le Cedre just keep on getting it right. Authenticity is key in this chainlette (well, there’s another across the river), as you’ll discover when talking to Tony, the Lebanese owner. To see the diversity of this cuisine, order the balbaak (six cold starters) or the byblos (six hot). And food aside, it’s the atmosphere that carries them that extra yard: the whole philosophy of this cuisine is to share and share alike, making it a uniquely engaging experience when dining with friends. (B3) Al. Solidarności 84, tel. 22 618 8999, lecedre.pl Le Cedre Lounge Furnished in voluptuous Middle Eastern

style, the latest subsidiary of the Le Cedre empire bursts with fancy sheesha pipes, extravagant rugs and shimmery satin drapes. It’s a look that’s fun, familiar, intimate and warm. Less encyclopedic than that of its two sister ventures, Le Cedre Lounge has a slimmer menu that introduces several new tastes to fans of Lebanese cuisine. Helplessly more-ish, it’s food that’s in line with the vibey atmosphere and casual air. (C4) ul.

Grzybowska 5A, lecedre.pl Shuk Located behind Hala Banacha in this gradually blooming district of Warsaw, SHUK’s certainly worth the tram ride if you’re not a native Ochotian. An offshoot of the acclaimed Mezze, highlights on our visit included a well-seasoned Arabic soup with lentils and spinach followed by a skillet of fried oyster mushrooms cooked with onions and served alongside harissa topped with rose petals. You’re looking at quite a special place that

Restaurant & Pastry Shop Warsaw, Żurawia 47/49, open: 7.00 - 22.00 reservations: tel. +48 (22) 621 82 68 Pastry Shop Warsaw, Felińskiego 52, open: 9.00 - 20.00

smakiwarszawy.pl

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EAT! Listings realigns your mojo on an ashen Warsaw day. ul. Grójecka 127 Sokotra Casting a warm, steamy glow over this corner of Wilcza, Sokotra reveals itself as a well-designed nook with a rough, urban edge: telegraph poles, bare bulbs and exposed lumps of concrete. Yemeni dishes are available though it’s the Indian food that shines – the Madras is intense, pungent and suitably fiery. (D5) ul. Wilcza 27, tel. 22 270 2766, sokotra.pl

polish Bazyliszek Some parts of Bazyliszek hark to its years as a stately, stuffy restaurant. Now though it’s more earthy, with Jurassic portions of meaty, lardy food best consumed with one-liter beers. The Rynek location and festive atmosphere account for its

popularity more than anything that comes from the kitchen. (D1) Rynek Starego Miasto 1/3, tel. 22 831 1841, bazyliszek. waw.pl Bar Gdański Closed last spring, a brief but thorough refit conducted by the new owner has given this milk bar a late lease of life.

Gone are the plastic plants, putrid smells and that slow feeling of death, replaced instead by a fresher look in keeping with the times. Despite this, the historic core has been retained including the daffodil colors and original floor tiles. How’s the food? Cheap. That’s probably the kindest thing you can say about it. Despite that, Gdański feels like an essential part of the community. (B1) ul. Andersa 33, fb.com/ bargdanskimuranow Belvedere Łazienki Królewskie Set in an imperial age glass orangery, it’s festooned with intricate latticework and botanical exotica. The updated

interiors are the work of acclaimed set designer Boris Kudlicka, and lend a fresh, contemporary tone that goes hand in hand with the menu. But behind the gels and emulsions and pretty little swirls, this is cooking of substantial depth; it’s cooking that takes you to the very soul of Polish nature. ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. 22 558 6701, belvedere.com.pl Bez Gwiazdek BEST WAWA 2017 “Modern Polish” BEST WAWA 2017 “Chef” Hide the white tablecloth! One of the more discernible trends of late has seen chefs attempt to replicate fine dining standards but in casual surrounds. Few are more qualified to do so than Robert Trzópek, a man whose résumé includes experience gained in Noma and El Bulli.

Seeking to ‘reinterpret forgotten Polish cuisine’, his tasting menu at Bez Gwiazdek focuses on a different region each month – November was a goosey exploration of Kujawa-Pomerania and included such

NEW MENU

Modern take on Italian cuisine

tel.: +48 22 829 69 69 ul. Senatorska 13/15, Warsaw/Old Town restauracja@focaccia.pl, fb.com/restauracjafocaccia www.focaccia.pl

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Traditional Polish Cuisine,

Ĺťurek

(traditional sour rye soup)

Golonka

(roast pork knuckle)

Placki Ziemniaczane

(potato pancake with gulash)

We serve Polish dishes on hot pans and sizzling cast iron and are winners of many culinary competitions Hand making our own pierogi since 1913 Pierogi Truskawkowe Strawberry dumplings

but don’t miss the pierogi OUR LOCATIONS IN WARSAW U L . K R A KO W S K I E P R Z E D M I E Ś C I E 5 5 | T E L . 2 2 6 9 2 7 2 0 4 U L . N O W Y Ś W I AT 6 4 | T E L . 2 2 6 9 2 4 1 3 5 AL. JEROZOLIMSKIE 28 | TEL. 22 826 7484 U L . F R E TA 1 | T E L . 2 2 8 3 1 6 1 9 0 UL. ŚWIĘTOJAŃSKA 13 | TEL. 22 635 6109 U L . F R E TA 1 8 | T E L . 2 2 6 3 5 7 9 5 9

EAT! Listings flights of fancy as a goose-stuffed donut for starter. Intimate, forward-thinking, thrilling, it’s no wonder foodies talk about this place with reverence and awe. (E3) ul.

Wiślana 8, bezgwiazdek.com.pl Bistro Pod Sowami Inside, the ground floor restaurant looks chic and elegant: tall windows and long polished tables, a granite bar and sleek looking lines. The menu backtracks through the passages of history to present ‘old Warsaw’ dishes as seen through a distinctly modern lens, with the high point being a 15-course tasting menu for zł. 60. That translates to a barrage of artfully adorned, telescopic-sized plates.

Some work are great, but others are even greater. All in, it’s an excellent ambassador for the new face of Old Praga. (F1) ul. Okrzei 26, fb.com/bistropodsowami Czerwony Wieprz (Red Hog) An amusing restaurant that looks back at communism through a rose-tinted lens.

Under the glowering gaze of commie tyrants, staff dressed like obedient members of the party’s Youth League deliver hefty dishes from a cheeky menu that is in itself a collector’s item. (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 22 850 3144, czerwonywieprz.pl

Delicja Polska Looking stately (pink bows, gilt touches and immaculate linen) but never stuffy, Delicja have a modern Polish menu that includes sous-vide salmon marinated in beetroot leaves, then topped with horseradish foam and dill emulsion. Brilliant.

But then so was everything else we tried, including the exquisite seasoned roast beef. (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 64, tel. 22 826 4770, delicjapolska.pl Dom Polski Almost like it was designed for the

manor born, Dom Polski has the rarefied atmosphere of a country retreat: bow-tied staff who click their heels, decorative antiques and a menu that’s a sumptuous anthology of posh Polish cooking. When you need to give visitors a sense of classic Warsaw, Dom Polski is the first out of the hat. (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 2432, restauracjadompolski.pl Dom Polski Belwederska Accessed via curling pathways and bursting shrubs this restaurant conjures images of an aristocrat’s manor. The air of privilege matches a menu that’s rich in fanciful classics such as their signature goose. Elegant and exquisite, consider it your default choice for a taste of true Poland. (F8) ul. Belwederska 18A, tel. 22 840 5060, restauracjadompolski.pl Elixir by Dom Wódki There are some who call the food here ‘deconstructed Polish’. In actuality, ‘reconstructed’ would be closer to the

The Pink Lobster is enthusiastically visited by connoisseurs of the good things in life: find top range produce given the fine dining treatment courtesy of chef and co-owner Jarek Walczyk (President of the Chef’s Club Foundation, Head Chef Bocuse d’Or Poland, and the brand ambassador for 92, ZT Kruszwica, and Bursztyn cheese).

UL. ŻURAWIA 6/12, PINKLOBSTER.PL MOB: +48 572 672 772 RESERVATIONS: KONTAKT@PINKLOBSTER.PL

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EAT! Listings mark. The chef has taken local classics and redrafted the recipes with the swoosh of a contemporary pen. The outcome is a pleasure from start to finish: a life affirming żurek, a tartar that could fulfill ambassadorial duties for Poland, and a handsome beef tenderloin sprinkled with crispy potato shavings.

Thoughtful pairings with lesser-known, boutique vodkas add another dimension that serves to complete this pleasing, patriotic adventure. (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl Folk Gospoda If you missed the last train to Zakopane, then a night in Folk Gospoda is the next best thing. Kitted out like a typical tavern in the Tatras, it’s a good-humored celebration of mountain-slope traditions: heaps of meat and lard with plenty of vodka and song in between. (B3) ul. Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605, folkgospoda.pl Kieliszki na Próżnej You’ll find Kieliszki na Próżnej, the latest restaurant to mark the rehabilitation of Próżna, so named after the 1,116 wineglasses that hang tantalizingly over the bar. As an anchor feature the suspended glassware is arresting, and equaled only by a long stretch of wall art doodled by Mariusz Tarkawian. The food matches up to the interiors, with a modern Polish menu that – on our visit – involved a thick, brilliantly spreadable foie gras pate, a thick slab of brawn and a delicate piece of moist Baltic cod. It’s pure seasonal comfort. (C3) ul. Próżna 12, tel. 501 764 674, kieliszkinaproznej.pl Mała Polana Smaków Put simply, it works on every level: from the service to the space – outside, a terrace featuring upcycled crates overlooking Morskie Oko, and on the inside, a cute little room with woodsy bits and big glass jars of mystery ingredients. It’s casual, but still fit for more serious roles: e.g. girlfriend night. And the food: exceptional.

Lots of seasonally changing choices that on our visit meant salmon sausage matched with beetroot and horseradish sauce along with pinches of lavender and fennel. (F9) ul. Belwederska 13/44, tel. 22 400 8048, polanasmakow.pl Papu Evoking the spirit of a gentleman’s manor,

Papu looks every inch the classic Polish restaurant. Reliant on regional produce from mom & pop farmsteads, chef Bartek Kędra’s menu does a gold carat job of enhancing old-fashioned recipes through the use of modern techniques. (D9) al.

Niepodległości 132/136, tel. 22 856 7788, restauracjapapu.pl Podwale Piwna Kompania Prowling mountain bands generate a beer hall atmosphere, while the courtyard garden – designed to replicate a Mitteleuropa square – is one of the best you’ll find. But the obscene portions can’t mask what is pretty poor food. Go there for the experience, if nothing else. (D2) ul.

Podwale 25, tel. 22 635 6314, podwale25.pl Restauracja Pod Gigantami All pomp and splendor, huge portraits of monarchs in ermine stare down from the walls; pristine parquet floors gently creak underfoot; from another chamber, the sound of clinking glasses whispers through the air. Yet as much as the interior makes an impact it fails to steal the show. That belongs to Paweł Zieliński, a chef whose biography includes a stint at the Michelin starred L’Ecrivain in Dublin. Now back in Poland, his menu is a patriotic proclamation of all that is good.

It’s here the Insider enjoyed its favorite żurek of 2016. (E5) Al. Ujadowskie 24, tel.

22 629 2312, podgigantami.pl Schabowy Red gingham tablecloths are just about the only decorative element in this plain Jane restaurant; aesthetics don’t figure highly, and that much is clear through an approach to plating presentation that’s best described as basic. But boy, they can cook – simple but delicious, the food here is Polish home cooking at its best: great ingredients used to even greater effect.

As the name suggests, schabowy is the star, and here you’ll find it served in three different forms. ul. Obrzeżna 1, fb.com/ schabowy.warszawa Słoik Jarheads will love Słoik, a place lined with glass jars brimming with colorful ingredients and bright preserves. Find natural Polish produce and traditionalsounding dishes treated with a careful and contemporary hand. The approach pits modernist against classic, and the

We’ve been thrilling Warsaw with authentic Lebanese tastes for 21 years!

Le Cedre Lounge Grzybowska 5A Tel 22 299 7299

Le Cedre 61

(opposite the zoo) Al. Solidarności 61, Praga Tel 22 670 1166

Le Cedre 84

(opposite the court) Al. Solidarności 84 Tel 22 618 8999

www.lecedre.pl warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings winner is, well, you. This is traditional Polish food updated for the discerning, latter day palate – and it’s really quite something. (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 600 396 688, restauracjasloik.pl Stary Dom A classic restaurant in style and history: back in the day it was a favorite haunt of jockeys and race goers from the horse track nearby. Pre-war recipes form the basis of the menu, with the team using seasonal produce and the latest technology to bring out its best. ul. Puławska 104/106, tel. 22 646 4208, restauracjastarydom.pl Talerzyki Presenting big flavors on small plates, here’s a place that miniaturizes the more glorious aspects of the nation’s cuisine and does so in style. The usual suspects are here – silvery slithers of herring; glistening pickles; and beef tartare that flushes raw redness – and if any extra oomph was needed then that’s supplied by classic, old school cocktails served by smooth-talking gents in crisp shirts and braces. Smart and stellar but never silly or over-played, Talerzyki manages the improbable by Polonizing the concept of tapas and coming out trumps. (D6) ul.

Mokotowska 33/35 Warszawski Sen By Mateusz Gessler A quite stunning restaurant dominated

by dark geometric patterns and the installations and ideas of guerilla artist Tomasz Górnicki. Once you’ve caught your breath and snapped off a few pics for your Instagram, settle in for a menu that gives Polish ingredients a highly contemporary treatment. If you thought Hala Koszyki was buzzing, then this edgy space is perhaps its biggest buzz of all. ul.

Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki), mateuszgessler.com.pl

Zapiecek Seven Warsaw locales, with our favorite found in the vaulted passages of Świętojańska. The menu is highly traditional, with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’. It’s for the pierogi though for which they’re famous; find approx. fifty types delivered by servers dressed like saucy country maids. Locations inc. ul.

Nowy Świat 64, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska 13, tel. 22 635 61 09, & ul. Wańkowicza 1, zapiecek.eu Zielnik A quiet Mokotów side street is the setting for this little secret. In it, flowers, lots of them, and a warming wood interior just right for winter. In summer, head instead to their glorious garden across the street in the park: adding a sophisticated twist to the holy grill, the skewered lamb is to die

for. (D10) ul. Odyńca 15, tel. 22 844 3500, restauracjazielnik.pl

Zielony Niedźwiedź A refuge of swish fancy, think of the Green Bear as a place of sanctuary and seclusion and of chic, high living. From the outset, you’re made to feel that good things will happen, and this they do – certified by Poland’s nascent Slow Food movement, the menu gives big billing to the suppliers that keep the pantry stocked. But the truth is, these aren’t the only stars of the show. Led by Wojciech Deres, the kitchen team are an accomplished bunch.

The Insider’s November visit included a rousing goose terrine and finely balanced veal sweetbreads. When skies are cold and granite, it’s food like this that helps you carry on. (E4) ul. Smolna 4, tel. 795 794 784, kafezn.pl

scandinavian Nabo The décor is, we’re told, typical Danish cafe – bold open windows, simple lines, high shelves filled with books and games on the table. But what is Danish food? There’s Old Danish on the menu: meatballs and open face sandwiches with meat and fish in various textural configurations and then there’s New Danish: an emerging trend towards fresh, seasonal food (no microwave oven at Nabo), with locally sourced and innovatively concocted ingredients. ul.

Zakręt 8, tel. 22 842 0256, nabocafe.pl

seafood L’Arc French in style, seafood dominates the menu of L’Arc with the lobster and oysters a particular standout. Full review coming soon. (E8) ul. Puławska 16, larc.pl Lokal na Rybę Seafood doesn’t play a particularly distinguished role in Warsaw’s culinary history, so the opening of a good fish restaurant

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EAT! Listings tends to get the locals talking. But Lokal isn’t just good, it goes several steps beyond. Open just three days a week (Thu-Sat, evenings only), the rotating menu presents a handful of daily choices against a simple, no pretense interior that’s often packed solid – reservations come recommended, as do the mussel dishes. (D9) ul. Kwiatowa 1/3/4, fb.com/ lokalnarybe

specialty food shops

‘Warsaw’s celebrity butcher’, has a new store in town, that being a corner unit in Hala Koszyki. Named by chefs across town as their principal source of meat, Kwapniewski’s offer includes Polish Red Angus, long-seasoned, marbled beef, not to mention veal, lamb, poultry and cured meats from small scale producers. ul.

Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki) Dobrze Co-op The Dobrze Food Co-op aims to ‘widen access to healthy, seasonal food’ while also supporting sustainable agriculture.

Founded in summer, 2014, the project collaborates with over 20 farms and local businesses and sells fresh vegetables and fruit alongside cereals, dried goods and other bits and pieces. ul. Wilcza 29A & ul. Andersa 27, dobrze.waw.pl Forteca Kregliccy Spot the stars of Warsaw’s restaurant scene perusing the stalls at this weekly farmers’ market. Held each Wednesday, look for Pan Ziółko, Poland’s first celebrity farmer (!), Portobello’s from the country’s only organic mushroom farm and the

Bazar Olkuska Once a sad little side street, Olkuska has evolved to become just about the worst kept secret in Warsaw. Home to the city’s top eco-market, trips here end with shopping bags filled with French cheeses, Italian hams, Hungarian sausages and fresh fruit and veg. (E10) ul. Olkuska 12 Befsztyk The Prokopowicz family has come a long way since launching Befsztyk in 1994. Top restaurants, celebs and ex-pats are listed as clients, and all agree that this operation is indisputably ‘top of the chops’. Find steaks seasoned for three weeks, glutenfree smoked meats, Merino lamb, BBQ kits and so much more. Home delivery, internet ordering and English-speaking staff round out this legend. many locations, befsztyk.pl

BioBazar With its previous home in Wola undergoing a substantial redevelopment, the BioBazar has moved to Mokotów. At the forefront of Poland’s food revolution, it’s a place that shines a light on ecologically certified goods and produce. Fresh fish, cheese, eggs, bread, cured sausages, honey... on it goes. Comprehensive in its pitch, everything you need to pursue a bright, happy life is here on this spot. ul.

Wołoska 3, biobazar.com.pl (B4) ul. Żelazna 51/53, biobazar.org.pl The Crazy Butcher Grzegorz Kwapniewski, better known as

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EAT! Listings magical yogurts from Mleczna Droga Manufaktura Serów. ul. Zakroczymska 12, kregliccy.eu/forteca Hala Gwardii Taking its cue from the market places of Lisbon and Marseilles, Hala Gwardii aims to reprise its former pre-war role as the city’s best-known food market. Designed to complement rather than compete with Hala Mirowska outside, the market is a sensory big bang with dozens of stalls specializing in everything from cheese and sausages, to rolled Thai ice cream and posh pet supplies. (C3) Pl. Mirowska 2, fb.com/halagwardii

steak houses Beef n’ Pepper A social space that encourages friends to gather and make merry over big meaty courses. Served on heavy tree stump plates, steaks here use Polish Angus aged for a 28-day period. If you’re into the concept of sharing with your fellow man, then the Beef n’Pepper plate offers a pile of everything: wings, ribs, steak. (C5) ul. Nowogrodzka 47A, tel. 785 025 025, beefandpepper.pl Butchery & Wine The Sarf London-born Bertha oven has revolutionized the way steak is cooked, retaining moisture in a way no-one thought possible. Expect robust pieces of animal full of big, brawny tastes, but there’s so much more than just meat: starters involve a sea bass ceviche that pings with citrusy flavor not to mention more-ish pork crackling that pop like fire bangers in the mouth. A place of energy and ambition, it’s a great mix of both new and classic. Bookings advised. (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 502 3118, butcheryandwine.pl Ed Red Warszawa can tell they’re serious about their meat just by looking at the starters: big, juicy marrow bones, mountain oysters, blood sausage and calf’s brain. The steaks are the calling card though, and here you’ll find them dry aged and consumed with

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the aid of hunting knives. The desserts seem a lumpy afterthought, but they get enough right elsewhere (even decent craft beer at the bar) to keep that little more than a mild annoyance. Pl. Mirowski 1, edred.pl You Hoża Wine and steak: it sounds so simple, but Hoża have taken two simple pleasures to another level. It’s an ebullient space with service right out of charm school, and a kitchen team with a real knowledge of cows. A red-blooded affair, the menu is a steak sensation and well paired with a handpicked wine list. (D5) ul. Hoża 25A, tel.

603 778 275, hoza.warszawa.pl Merliniego A classic looking steakhouse that swirls in shadow, brickwork and elegant touches, it’s a place to immerse yourself in an atmosphere that’s all surreptitious conversation and distant clinking glasses.

The steaks are out-of-this world, with USDA prime beef from New York’s legendary Ottomanelli & Sons and Scottish beef from London’s Smithfield Market.

On our last visit we splurged on the Grade 9+ wagyu ‘kobe’ rib-eye and found ourselves eating the steak of a lifetime.

Simply amazing. (E10) ul. Merlineiego 5, merliniego.pl

thai Thaisty The most successful business model pioneered in recent years? That’s the work of Thaisty, a bright, cheerful spot with a ‘street style’ and moderate prices – queues, at times, stretch out the door.

Vivid colors and a busy open kitchen lend the place a happy buzz that lasts through the day, yet despite this many have voiced concerns that Thaisty’s runaway success has come at a cost to the overall quality.

Even so, the BBQ skewers remain a good order. (C2) Pl. Bankowy 4, tel. 730 000 024 Wi-Taj Despite the name, it’s actually the cuisine of Vietnam that is the dominant entity in this restaurant. There is the odd moment of madness (glazed cherries appearing at random), but in general Wi-Taj does a grand job of representing a kitchen

EAT! Listings that hasn’t always enjoyed the greatest publicity in Warsaw. The crunchy, perky nem are a fine way to start, but it’s the steaming bowls of pho that have this Insider promising to return. As for prices, these rarely climb north of zł. 30. (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 4

vegan & wholefood 30 Koszyków In light of the lavish, local vegan choice, critics could call the menu at 30 Koszyków a little mundane – hummus peaked three years ago, didn’t it? Yet while the concept might not feel new, the execution does. From a limited set of choices, Koszyków’s fast expanding customer base enjoy a range of kick-ass hummus recipes that have acquired a serious following: the beetroot is highly

recommended. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 30, fb.com/30koszykow Bar Stołeczny So far we’ve seen Warsaw’s vegan scene embrace Mexican cuisine, Italian, Japanese, Thai and lord knows what else. Stołeczny’s kitchen chooses to keep things closer to home, instead sourcing inspiration from the milk bars of yore.

It’s a simple selection of pancakes and pierogi here, but one that’s also simply done well. Tuck in inside a basic interior with a green gingham motif – sometimes, you don’t need much else. (D5) ul.

addictive, and leave you wondering if vegan sushi stands to be Warsaw’s next trend. (D5) ul. Wilcza 11, edamame.pl Kuchnia Konfliktu First came a food truck, then a cargo container. Now, Kuchnia Konfliktu have a legit address they can finally call home.

Founded to provide work for refugees fleeing conflict zones, this social project has won acclaim not just for social initiative, but more importantly its food. With employees hailing from the likes of Iran, Afghanistan, Chechnya and Iraq, prepare to dive deep into the exotic. (D5) ul. Wilcza 60

Poznańska 7, fb.com/barstoleczny

Edamame Vegan Sushi Sushi without its star ingredient sounds ridiculous, but this vegan sushi joint manages to out-manoeuver its traditional competitors by replacing below-par fish with fresh, vegetarian produce: sugar snap peas, radish, carrots, asparagus, etc. The results are both magical and

Lokal Vegan Bistro Aside from a small menu consisting of more standard vegan offers, Lokal keep Homer Simpson characters in mind with regular guest slots for street food that’s given a full vegan makeover. Offhand, that’s meant vegan kebabs, cheesesteaks, burgers and zapiekanka, all of which have been pretty damn good. (D5) ul. Krucza

A F R E N C H R E V E L AT I O N

REDOLENT OF A PARISIEN COURTYARD BAKERY, YOU’LL SMELL THE AROMA OF OUR FRESHLY BAKED BREAD FROM DAWN. OPEN THROUGH THE DAY, WE’RE DELIGHTED TO SERVE OUR FAMOUS BREAKFASTS, TRADITIONAL PASTRIES NOT TO MENTION A SELECTION OF WINES FOR YOUR DINNER. WE LOOK FORWARD TO WELCOMING YOU.

Być Może

ul. Bagatela 14

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EAT! Listings vietnamese

(G3) ul. Finlandzka 12A

Oh My Pho A busy, family-run joint, OMP’s specific claim to fame is what many are terming the best and most authentic pho in the ward. Steamy and aromatic, this is pho as it should be: full of big herby thwacks, ribboning noodles, and soft strips of meat in a clear, restorative stock. Often cited as being the ‘soul of the nation’, just a few noisy slurps are all that’s needed to corroborate the life-affirming goodness of this beautiful broth... (D5) ul. Wilcza 32

Vietnamka BEST WAWA 2017 “Casual Dining” Divey but lively, diners step down into Vietnamka to find a shouty little lair of mint green walls and wobbly wooden tables. As for the food, you suspect that’ll be ’nam good when TV chef Kurt Scheller wonders in for a take-out. And boy, yes it is. Squiggled onto a crumpled sheet of paper, menu items include giant bowls of warming pho, steamed goat with lemongrass and more-ish spring rolls.

Exceptional in every respect, the cooking here sails Warsaw’s Asian scene into uncharted waters. (D5) ul. Poznańska 7

Youmiko Vegan Sushi Already well-established in Kraków, Youmiko enter Warsaw’s vegan sushi market hot on the heels of Edamame on Wilcza nearby. There’s definitely more of a hipster, ‘urban guerrilla’ feel to Youmiko, but the sushi is every bit a success. Often better than ‘the real thing’. (D5) ul. Hoża 62, youmiko.vg

Toan Pho Toan Pho’s bowls of soup with rice noodles come highly recommended; as does the chaos intrinsic to this type of casual Asian eatery. The short menu is in Vietnamese with Polish decoding – although you can ask for an English version. (D4) ul. Chmielna 5/7, tel. 888 147 307

Viet Street Food Bistro What started out as a roaming food truck has settled down into life as a legitimate restaurant. Widely looked upon as the source of the best Vietnamese chow this city’s ever seen, the small menu reveals steaming bowls of pho and banh mi baguettes loaded with meat and greens.

(H4) ul. Królowej Aldony 5/2

23/31, 517 615 122 Vegan Ramen Shop Co-joining two fads is always a risky business – just ask Loco Mexicana. All of a sudden, the focus doesn’t fall on just getting one thing right, but two. But despite this double-headed challenge Vegan Ramen have struck gold on account of their complex bowls of restorative goodness: their fan base extends way beyond the boundaries of Saska Kępa. Enjoy in a cool interior filled with cute Japanese props on dozens of ‘levitating shelves’.

H A R M O N I Z E D BY C H E F G A B R I E L D E G A R C I A , D I S C O V E R W H AT H A P P E N S W H E N T H E PA S S I O N AT E TA S T E S O F S PA I N M E E T T H E M I N I M A L I S T P R E C I S I O N O F J A PA N …

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DRINK!

PHOTOGRAPH ED WIGHT

FULL OF BEANS

You wouldn’t be the first person to walk past Forum without giving it a second look – blink, and you’ll have missed it. Set through an inconspicuous doorway (look for the Comedy Club sign), Forum reveals itself as a plain, narrow space with a long counter running down the middle and a smattering of tables occupied by cool-looking designer types engrossed by their laptops. Changing weekly, the big pull is a choice of specialty coffees sourced from roasters such as Copenhagen’s Coffee Collective and Berlin’s Five Elephant. Fixed by a team of experts (co-owner Sławek is currently ranked Poland’s second top barista), this is coffee that makes life brew-tiful.

Forum ul. Nowowiejska 1, forum.coffee

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Drink! Review THE PLACE

Location: Chmielna. Not the tired, tacky bit that gets the tramps and tourists, but the cool little strip running parallel to the side. Set over two glass-fronted floors, it’s down here you’ll find Mikkeller’s Warsaw enclave. Light and bright (too bright, say some), the sparsity is a surprise: a classic case of less is more, here the punchline is given to the beer.

ON TAP

Twenty taps fire out a revolving roster of kickass beers that, thus far, have included lambic-style ‘SpontanPear’, yuzu flavored Berliner weisse and hardcore collaborations with Danish brewers Warpigs. Yep, it’s you’re a beer nerd then this is a total, utter geek-gasm.

Beyond Denmark, guest slots are kept open for foreign bigwigs such as The Veil Brewing Co, and domestic trailblazers like Artezan and Rockmill (arguably Poland’s big breakthrough brewery of 2017).

GREAT DANES

Danish brewing giants Mikkeller touchdown in Warsaw…

W

hen news first filtered through that Mikkeller were opening a bar in Warsaw there was that brief little moment akin to a déjà vu. “Remember BrewDog,” we all muttered as one. A cautionary tale if ever there was, BrewDog’s foray into Warsaw stands out as the most spectacular example of misguided hubris that the city’s beer scene has yet to see – they came, they saw, they flunked. Within months it was empty, within a year all but dead. So, naturally, the arrival of another ballsy, foreign brewery will instinctively be scrutinized and face wary comparisons – but it needn’t.

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Mikkeller Bar Warsaw ul. Chmielna 7/9, fb.com/MikkellerBarWarsaw

THE REST

Mikkeller’s website promises a ‘crazy selection of bottles’, but good luck getting a look at them without X-Ray vision. Typical of Warsaw, find them hidden in low-level fridges behind the bar.

On other fronts, big ticks go to coffee sourced from roasters such as Copehagen’s Coffee Collective, and whisky from Kentucky’s Old Rip Wan Winkle. Frankly, if you can’t find something to drink then you deserve to be jailed.

PRICE

You can make a serious dent in your card at Mikkeller, but then, you can do just the same at a petrol station – and it wouldn’t be nearly as much fun. Prices for the Danish stuff start in the early 20s and soar upwards from there – in return, you’re getting brilliant beer that breaks brewing boundaries. For cheapskates, the Polish options kicks-off at approx. 13 PLN.

GOOD TO KNOW

A growing number of craft beer bars are claiming to serve what they call ‘craft food’. Unlike many, Mikkeller have actually earned the right to apply that title to their offer. On the menu find beery snacks such as pigs’ ears, chicken feet, fried calf brain and BBQ pork neck smoked for 24hrs.

VERDICT

PHOTOGRAPHS BY ED WIGHT

From whatever angle you look at it, Mikkeller have started well. And while they’re open in courting beer dorks with their ultra niche beers, their biggest success has been in attracting an international crowd that feels far more diverse than Warsaw’s other tap bars. Long may it continue.

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DRINK! Listings bars & pubs 2Koła Sat, as it is, in the abandoned backspaces and brickyards behind Zachodnia station, 2Koła feels like Warsaw’s dirtiest little secret. Still stained and smelling of grease and oil, this former garage is piled high with dented sofas, warehouse palettes and motorcycling detritus. Yet the supremely friendly owners have turned this shadowy lair into a cult bar that’s specifically celebrated for rowdy jam sessions that cover everything from ragtime to rockabilly. ul. Tunelowa 2B 8 Dzień Tygodnia Though the owners remain the same, the unit that once housed Kwadrat couldn’t be more different: no longer a grungey, shadowy space, it’s been rebooted with lots of brash, bursts of color, strings of fairy lights and pops of modern art. What’s not been lost is the amiable sense of gentle chaos: buoyed by a quirky beer selection and fun music policy, this remains one of the friendliest venues in the parish. (D5) ul.

Poznańska 7

The Alchemist The great British tradition of ‘a pint after work’ is gathering steam in PL, thanks in part to places like this. Lively and cosmopolitan, The Alchemist’s broad ranging appeal – not to mention ‘self-service beer wall’ – makes it a winning gathering point for 5 p.m. drinks. (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 3, thealchemist.pl

Bar Gemba Despite occupying the bottom corner of an office development Gemba isn’t short of character: that is, at least, if you measure character by the number of thrift store armchairs and vintage extras.

Furbished with lampshades, luggage and varying odds and ends, it’s the kind of dark, debauched bar that trended amongst artsy Poles in the early 00s. (D5) ul. Wilcza 50/52

Bar Pacyfik From Day 1 there was something that felt special about this place, and that feeling has only swelled with the progress of time. With a retro-kitsch interior delivered straight from the age of Scarface (candy floss pink, ocean blue), it’s a bar that’s

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dark and divey, raw and real. More than just a spot for the cool kids, there’s an inclusive atmosphere that feels positively international. As for drinks, the habanero / salsa infused Bloody Maria is a lifeaffirming gargle that sweeps through the body like an electric current – three sips and you feel like Superman. (C5) ul. Hoża 61 Bar Studio The ascetic, modern décor is intentional – both not to compete with the fine adornment of the original walls and to break through the building’s grandiose airs. It’s hard not to be overawed by the sheer gigantism of the Palace of Culture that looms above. It seamlessly slips from café during the day into its more culturally active persona in the evenings, with concerts, film screenings, plays and political discussions. (C4) Pl. Defilad 1, barstudio.pl

Bar Warszawa De Luxe Leave your visit to the weekend when De Luxe unfurls into something resembling a Polish wedding disco. All the requisite characters appear in this spinning vortex of Boney M: vodka-fuelled Incredible Hulks, groping granddads, svelte students and everyone else in between. Somehow, the formula works without a hitch. There are Poles who’d be mortified by this representation of their country, but the truth is, it’s a rip-roaring time that’s enjoyed by most. (D2) Krakowskie Przedmieście 79 Bazar There’s Krusovice, Bernard and Staropramen on tap, and the Czech slant is lent added meat by a series of evenings held in cahoots with the Czech Cultural Centre – it’s during boozy disco nights the party spills into a shadowy cellar with light retro hints. On ground level its raw and industrial with asphalt colors and overhead pipes. You wouldn’t expect it, but the margaritas are smashing. (F1) ul.

Jagiellońska 13

Beirut Newly expanded, Beirut has walls dusted with cult album covers, documentary posters and witty graffiti inspired by Banksy. Busy in the day, and absolutely packed at night, order unconventional beers from androgynous, well-inked staff standing behind a sandbag bar decorated with silver hand grenades and

a model tank. During the day there’s a lot of competitive posturing as media types pose by their Macs. But come night, this veneer of cool dissolves into one happy blur. (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, beirut.com.pl Bohemia You have to credit them for trying something different, but by going for a slick, corpo style Bohemia have completely missed ‘the essence of Czechia’. Filled with smooth wood and gleaming glass, it feels more boardroom than beer hall (actually, make that bored room). What goes right? The beer. Poured from a ‘tank’ system designed to maintain your beer’s freshness, it’s every bit as good as drinking straight from the tit of Pilsner’s own brew master. (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, bohemiarestaurant.pl

Central Bar The beer (supplied by Bierhalle) is fine, the cocktails are getting better, and the atmosphere is cranked to max: you get the buzzy sense that you’re in the middle of something that’s captured Warsaw’s imagination – the natural focal point of Hala Koszyki, the ever-stretching Central Bar has been one of the biggest hits of 2017. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki) Ceska With its fake brickwork and shameless proliferation of Pilsner paraphernalia, the general feeling is that Ceska feels forced and phony – looking like it was fitted out to a rigid company blueprint, it’s more like the kind of theme pub you’d find off Leicester Square. Service, meanwhile, can be surly, forgetful and occasionally plain hostile. The ‘tank’ pouring system is a considerable plus: try the ‘mliko’, a full pint of creamy foam that can be sunk in a swig. (D4) ul. Chmielna 35, ceska.pl Czeska Baszta There’s a growing number of Czech pubs in Warsaw, but none do it better than the original. Tucked inside one of the weird turrets that support Poniatowski Bridge, discover divey Czeska immersed in a foggy, yellow-ish glow. Boisterous but extremely friendly, there’s a reason for all the man hugs and back slaps: everyone’s drunk! The cupboard-sized smoking room is where most of the fun happens, and while there’s a good choice of Czech craft beers in the fridge, the real

DRINK! Listings reason to visit are the frothy pints of lager sourced from the owner’s favorite small town breweries.

place rocks though. (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, fb.com/KrakenRumBar

(E4) Tower 22A, Most Poniatowskiego, czeskabaszta.pl

Legends Over the years Legends has earned a legendary status amongst the expats and Anglophiles. Their cause is helped by touches such as a proper darts board, Sky Sports and a traditional menu that’s as authentically English as the Downing Street cat. Presiding over it all is Graham, a seasoned expat and Everton nut. (C5) ul.

Elephant Belgian Pub Signposted by a jolly, dancing elephant, this Belgian pub presents its cause the moment you enter – there’s twenty or so taps laid right out in front, and to the left a fridge that’s expected to top out to cover 200 beers. The design is basic – brickwork, beer kegs and varying ephemera of the brewing trade – but it doesn’t need that much more: it’s about the beer, after all. (C1) ul. Freta 19 Grizzly Gin Bar More prone than ever to global trends, news that the international gin revival has hit Warsaw comes as no real bombshell.

The style in Grizzly is dark and hip with the design largely limited to moody lighting, some witty murals and a bank of outdated TV sets given an artistic twist; the smoking room is great for accidental meetings with curious characters while the occasional gigs really pack a punch – it’s fast becoming the latest and loudest night in the area. (D5) ul. Wilcza 46 Hard Rock Cafe Full Throttle cocktails, lively staff and a classic rock soundtrack: the energy of HRC is hard to find fault with. And on the rare occasion there is a lull in the night, use the opportunity to sniff around memorabilia that includes a black leather number once worn by Madonna. (C5) ul.

Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), hardrockcafe.pl

Kosmos – Inne Beczki Craft beer, pizza, late nights and DJs! In a nutshell, that’s Kosmos. Attracting the kind of crowd you’d anticipate (trend aware 20/30-somethings), it’s the kind of place where a dull time is rare. (D5) ul.

Poznanska 24

Kraken Rum Bar Named after one of the ocean’s most feared mythical creatures (the scary squid from Pirates of the Caribbean), the woodclad Kraken features a wall of cymbals, heavy furniture and some interesting photography. While there’s some decent bottles of rum, there’s perhaps not enough to justify calling it a rum bar. The

Emilii Plater 25, legendsbar.pl

Lolek A boisterous pub with a Bavarian, bacchanalian spirit and a legendary reputation. Though this park-centered bar is best-known for its long summer nights, once the cool weather sets in find strangers squishing together indoors on shaky benches in a rough-and-ready interior. With sausages grilling over an open fire, and the constant din of sloshed merriment in the background, you understand why many have a soft spot for this atmospheric institution. (A8) ul. Rokitnicka

cavernous café-bar with a young, lively crowd that’s keen on scholastic events and political causes. Never does it feel too trendy, or too hipster – it’s a place that’s all about atmosphere and friendship. (B1) ul. Andersa 29, panstwomiasto.pl

Plan B Plan B is the very essence of dive Warsaw.

Weekends pass by in a raucous blur, with the party spilling out under the colonnades outside – it helps to look like a DJ, but in truth everyone is welcome.

The hangover from this shabby, grubby bar is traumatic. (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), planb.pl

Sheesha Lounge Providing you don’t mind sharing the weekend with some of the most gloriously gorgeous people in the city, then a trip to Sheesha ticks all the boxes. Presenting itself in a whirl of action, the exotic, clubby atmosphere hits fever pitch come the midnight hour. Earlier, soak up the atmosphere with a scented hookah while lounging under eastern lights. (D5) Al.

20 (Pole Mokotowskie), lolekpub.pl

Jerozolimskie 33, sheesha.pl

Między Nami With 18 years of service under their belt you may think of Między Nami as being an antiquated has-been. Not so. Haunted by a mix of media types and local characters, this hip white piece of post-commie Warsaw has an enduring, almost timeless appeal. (D4) ul. Bracka 20, miedzynamicafe.

Smak Brasserie Open Friday through to Sunday, the upstairs gallery inside Hala Gwardii has views of the market hall action below and a design that’s based around moody lighting, open spaces and rescued furnishings. A fine place in which to soak in the atmosphere of this echoey, pre-war hall. (C3) Zelaznej Bramy 1 (Hala Gwardii)

com

Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’ Approximately twenty bars occupy a series of low-budget prefabricated cabins, presenting possibly the highest density of bars in the capital: in summer, it feels like one big street party. Adding to the gentle sense of confusion comes the realization that so many bars look the same – accessed through clattery, barred doors, visitors walk into what can only be described as murk. Klaps, with its dildo beer taps and phallic walls, is probably the most well-known of the lot. (D4) Enter

Stixx It takes a moment to allow the sheer magnitude of Stixx sink in. Having adjusted to the wow factor of the interior – which can best be described as cosmopolitan-industrial – most retreat to the long, all weather deck which in itself is quite something: the aesthetics are such that a cocktail party on an oligarch’s yacht comes to mind. There aren’t many better places for a drink when the roof is rolled back and the stars twinkle above. (A4) Pl. Europejski 4A, tel. 22 340 4040, stixx.pl

from ul. Nowy Świat 26

Państwo Miasto Is there anything better than sitting in a café, book in hand, while watery winter sunshine pours through the windows? We go to Państwo to do just that, an echoey,

Świetlica Long and narrow, dark and murky, it’s as raw as they come: toilets of grubby menace, a smoking room clad in spray art, broken fittings and general gloom.

Basically, it’s everything you demand warsawinsider.pl

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DRINK! Listings from the last bar of the night – a place where you can slide into the shadows and watch the world spin around. (E7) ul.

Marszałkowska 17

sandwiches arrive on wooden boards, there’s pretty homemade desserts and a careful choice of wine: falling in love with it is easy. ul. Puławska 24 & ul. Zgoda 3, bulkeprzezbibulke.pl

Ul Cool and current, the globalized menu has distinct Asian accents and is enjoyed in a rough-chic interior of painted brickwork and dangling lights. Come night it feels dark and divey, the kind of place you head to party. And party you will – closing at two during the week and four (and beyond) at the weekend, the vibe is hard and energetic and befitting of Poznańska.

(D5) ul. Poznańska 16

Worek Kości A celebration of both the burlesque and bizarre, Worek Kości is the bar Edgar Allan Poe would create were he raised from the dead. A lively evening hangout with ad-libbed cocktails and an unconventional program of events, you’re as likely to visit during an open-mic night as you are a discussion on Silesian serial killers. This fascination with the morbid and macabre manifests itself by way of a quirky design featuring hundreds of skulls and book shelves lined with the complete works of Stephen King. (E7) ul. Bagatela 10

cafés Bistro Spatif Beautiful people need beautiful places.

Therefore, it’s a surprise that Mokotowska is so wanting when it comes to daytime venues to break from boutique bingeing.

Bistro Spatif redresses the balance presenting a narrow room that announces itself in a blast of tropical turquoise, bare brickwork and pristine parquet.

Immediately engaging, this compact cafe is everything you need during daylight hours – and once they’ve closed for the evening, head across the courtyard to the larger, livelier Klub Spatif. (E5) ul.

Mokotowska 58, fb.com/bistrospatif

Bułkę przez Bibułkę There’s a feminine style to this cafe, what with its cute, girly pastels, petite plant pots and woodsy finishes. But no matter what your gender or age, there’s something immediately sunny and positive about this place. Slow food

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Być Może It’s all about artisan bread and breakfast in the industrial looking Być Może. It’s taken the concept of Charlotte (groan, there’s even a communal table), and improved it with excellent breads and a crowd that’s a little less pleased with itself. (E7) ul. Bagatela 14, bycmoze.com.pl Charlotte Menora If the air is smug and self-satisfied, there’s a good reason for that: Charlotte have come to embody modern urban Poland: energetic, ambitious and ferociously trend conscious. And to think, some look at it as a mere bakery. Occupying a long space, the latest outpost of this café chain doesn’t overlook the area’s Jewish heritage, with the menu featuring several Jewish delicacies: the bagels are ok. (C4) Pl. Grzybowski 2, bistrocharlotte.pl Coffeedesk Looking pristine in her pearl white colors, Coffeedesk is a place that does it right.

Brewed by expert coffeeologists, the humble cup of Joe becomes an object of adoration that sends spirits soaring.

Populated round-the-clock by freelancers tapping diligently into Macs, it’s a light, bright spot with a dynamic style and a keen sense of sexy. Just being here feels good and that’s good enough. ul. Wilcza 42, fb.com/coffeedeskwilcza

Cophi So small you get the idea you could fit Cophi into the palm of your hand, yet no other place in Warsaw is more devoted to sourcing the best coffees in the world. (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60

Czuły Barbarzyńca na Piwnej A Parisian-style bookstore full of steps and wobbles, nooks and alcoves. All agree there’s something special here: maybe it’s the book selection – varied, esoteric and at once compelling. Or maybe it’s the atmosphere, such that browsers anchor themselves on the sofas to lose an afternoon with their nose in a novel while sipping drip coffee. (E3) ul. Piwna 20/26, czuly.pl

Kafka Café A chessboard floor and a collection of antlers on the wall characterize Kafka, a bookstore / café whose literary collection is composed of paperbacks rescued from recycling plants. Books are purchased by their weight (zł. 10 per kilo) while the menu includes pancakes, pastas and even doggy treats for your mutt. (E3) ul. Oboźna 3, kawiarnia-kafka.pl Kawiarnia Fabryczna Looking for a place in which to shut the world out and stick your nose in a book?

Head to this warm den to sink inside comfy retro chairs and soak up the natural light that pours through the window.

It’s a place to eavesdrop, catch-up on gmail and daydream the morning away.

The flat white is spot-on as well. (E3) ul.

Fabryczna 28/30, kawiarniafabryczna.pl

Kos Kos is a place intent on stitching the neighborhood together. That much is made clear by a diverse events calendar that features a panoply of activities: yoga courses to weekend brunches via the occasional kid’s improvisation class. As commendable as these social actions are, it’s the basics that Kos do so well. Drenched in natural sunlight, perch on the windowsill and enjoy swift wifi, award-winning coffee and a menu of homemade snacks and bits. (D4) ul.

Chmielna 9A

Krem A chic city center hangout with all the swanky, urban elegance of the 8th arrondisement.

Opened by the same team behind Monsieur Leon, find their latest little baby decorated with monochrome tiles, marble-topped tables, and retro-styled mirrors. A place of hip sophistication and laid-back vibe, the menu is built around French cheeseboards, raclette and super sexy baguettes. (D6) ul. Śniadeckich 18 Matcha Tea House Renting the space once occupied by the legendary Bastylia, Matcha certainly have a big pair of boots to fill – but fill them they might. Beyond a comprehensive choice of matcha, find also an array

DRINK! Listings desserts that use this green Japanese tea as their cornerstone ingredient. (D6) ul.

Mokotowska 17

Ministerstwo Kawy Sourcing their coffee from Koppi, an internationally acclaimed Swedish roasting house, the ministry takes no short cuts in their pursuit of excellence.

Utilizing Ethiopian, Costa Rican and Brazilian arabicas – some exclusive to Poland – barista Wojciech Rzytki has earned a reputation across Poland for his expert hand. Rave reviews are standard and appropriate. (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 27, ministerstwokawy.pl

Niezłe Ziółko Café & Deli A shrine to pure and healthy eating, this friendly café doesn’t just brew a great coffee, but bakes its own bread and produces its own yogurt. Sit in the loft to look down on shoppers scurrying to Mokotowska, and on the way out, check out ‘Grandma’s Cupboard’ in the corner: jams, spreads and olive oils are there to buy for home. (D5) ul. Krucza 17 Odette Tearoom Taking its lead from their original dessert stop on ul. Górskiego, the sister venue peddles glorious cakes and pralines as well as a hand-picked selection of boutique teas served in a fragrant and elegant atmosphere. (C4) ul. Twarda 4, odette.pl

Relaks Expertly prepared, right down to the foam art, the baristas here use the finest imported machines and work only with fair trade, ‘specialty’ coffee. If you have time, the drip coffees are more than worth the wait. The crowded interiors supply a retro accent, and are enjoyed by a fashion aware, laptop-touting crowd.

(E9) ul. Puławska 48

Same Fusy Suffused in a candle-lit glow, this 15th century cellar unwinds to reveal a charming brick room suspended in time. Filled with gnarled wooden oddities and tree stump tables, the sweet aroma of fragrant teas helps amplify the fairy tale mood. ul.

Nowomiejska 10

Stor Sourcing their coffee from revered

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roasters such as Berlin’s Bonanza and Stockholm’s Drop Coffee, Stor have grown to become a giant presence on Warsaw’s café map. Visitors bask in natural light amid outbreaks of greenery and quirky design touches: time runs away here and before you know it hours have passed. ul.

Tamka 33, fb.com/storcafe

clubs Bal If you thought Nowogrodzka was just about grungy craft beer dens then think again. Proving you wrong is Bal, a club that draws a pleasure-seeking party crew of waifish, wasted model-types and assorted hangers-on. Find them twerking away under one of the most interesting lighting arrangements in the city. (F5) ul.

work anytime in the next 48 hrs, it’s not just the full-on techno that will leave the brain rattling – you’ll know if it’s your scene. (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, luztro.pl N58 The latest entry on Warsaw’s club circuit have issued a manifesto promising deep vocal house, r’n’b, mash-ups and theme nights centered around Afro Beats / trap / twerk and hip hop. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58 No Comment Found in one of the towers that prop up Most Poniatowskiego, a ‘sense of unknown’ manifests itself inside this weekend’s only club, a bi-level area whose small size adds to the air of mystery and exclusivity. Away from the prying eyes of Joe Public, find glittery, local celebs getting down and naughty.

(F4) Al. 3 Maja 16/18A, Most Poniatowskiego

Nowogrodzka 31, niechzyjebal.pl

Enklawa Forget Tinder, Enklawa is the best pick-up joint around – a classic kitschy, glitzy disco, it draws in huge crowds with a simple lineup of pop and dance hits. Still regarded as the best Wednesday night in Warsaw, it’s the place for singletons looking for a one-night confidence boost.

(D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, enklawa.com

Klub Spatif A maze-like pre-war tenement has been given a new shot at life courtesy of Spatif, a late night bar / club a few steps removed from a giant house party.

Music is varied, with different nights offering Britpop, soul, jazz, etc., with the diverse crowd spread across a series of chambers decorated with vintage fittings. Hidden down in the basement, the smoking room feels like crashing into someone’s living room. Cool but never too far up its own arse, it’s become one of the best late nights you’ll find. Al. Ujazdowskie 45, klubspatif.pl

Luztro Don’t sit down, you won’t know what you might catch. Dark and generally filthy, Warsaw’s most (in)famous club only gets going around about three. As the hours click towards daybreak, the scenes of depravity are like something from Sodom and Gomorrah. Enjoyed by zombies that quite definitely don’t have to be up for

Ritual Looking dark and sensual, this two-level space unwraps before you like some elaborate adventure. Candles flicker, atmosphere crackles – moving towards the bar, slinky, sultry club creatures of unfathomable beauty prowl past with drinks poised in hand. Heating up gradually as the night progresses, Ritual moves organically from being a voluptuous bar to a spicy club as the night ebbs towards its heady conclusion. (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, ritualwarsaw.com

Room 13 Connected by a series of inter-linking archways, rooms inside this dressy club throb at the weekends with a super sexy crowd letting loose under the vaulted ceilings. Now in their fifth year, it’s become a stalwart of the Mazowiecka scene. (D3) ul.

Mazowiecka 13, room13.pl

Sen Pszczoły Famous, infamous or a bit of both? Moving from their temporary digs in the Koneser Factory, the new-look Sen Pszczoły is every bit as murky as the previous: amid a heavy industrial background, find partygoers enjoying a mixed bag of events that range from didgeridoo performances to full-on techno that makes fillings pop out. ul. Grochowska 301/305, senpszczoly.pl

Smolna 38 Hated by the selfie mob (guests are

DRINK! Listings breathlessly classy about it, like you’ve just entered Gatsby’s ballroom. You want to order a pyramid of champagne and dance on their piano. Behave, and order a cocktail instead. For a taste of the classics, the Column Bar is pretty peerless. (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście

Smolna 38

Bar Wieczorny The cocktails are serious here, with top quality spirits (Vestal, Baczewski, Woodford Reserve) used with equally big name mixes (Fentimans, Big Tom, etc.). Further, you’ll find it’s the right products in the right hands – the staff really know their game. (D8) ul. Wiśniowa 46, barwieczorny.pl

The View Sat on top of the Spektrum Tower this bar/club has reinvented the whole concept of going out in Warsaw. A truly world-class venture, the open-air deck on the 32nd floor offers striking views of the cityscape, first rate cocktails and an international rotation of DJs. No other club nails the champagne lifestyle with quite the same panache. (C4) ul. Twarda

Bardziej It’s thanks to places like Bardziej that Oleandrów is becoming one of the most talked about streets around. This splitlevel bar does a good job of capturing the essence of the area, with inventive ‘author’s cocktails’ matched against a warm, dimly lit interior that’s heaving with cogs, metal hooks and enigmatic dials. The later it gets, the better it is.

18, theview.pl

(E5) ul. Marszałkowska 21/25 (enter from Oleandrów)

Cosmo Bar Though they’ve made a big noise about embracing a variety of initiatives aimed at maximizing sustainability, Tomek Roehr’s Cosmo Bar project, is more than a one-trick pony. Beyond the novelty factor is a scrupulous attention to detail that manifests itself in impeccable cocktails based around Polish produce – rowanberry, sea buckthorn and suchlike.

Occupying a plush, little corner of the Cosmopolitan Tower, this is luxury with a conscience. ul. Twarda 4, cosmobar.pl

required to cover their phones with a sticker), rated by everyone else, Smolna’s nights have grown to become legend. Pete Tong, Simian Mobile Disco and Hercules & Love Affair have all played in the past, which says much for the management’s ambition. (E4) ul.

cocktails 6 Cocktails If 6 Cocktails has the feeling of hanging around someone’s flat that’s because, actually, you are. This posh Mokotowska apartment has been re-adapted as an exclusive bar frequented by leggy models and society figures: the parties are nuts! Unmarked from street level, to enjoy the inventive cocktails message them on FB and await your invite. (E5) ul.

Mokotowska 57

THE MOST

Podwale Bar & Books R C P T M Though it doesn’t have to be winter C W to enjoy≈Podwale Bar & Books, it W C definitely ≈ helps. Seen through frosted, C C foggy windows it’s a venue that reveals ≈ itself Tas≈a place of dark, delicious colors E andPrarefied air. Occupying the kind of ≈ L S charismatic gatehouse you’d read about B B inP Dickens, position yourself in front of the upstairs fireplace for a celebratory cigar and a glass of something tall and lovely: the cocktails are in a class of their own and specifically customized for the season. Check out their monthly burlesque shows.(D2) ul. Wąski Dunaj 20, EFRESHINGLY LACES

IVILIZED

EETTM

O

IGARS &

INE &

HISKY

HAMPAGNE

OCKTAILS &

USINE

ASTINGS

RIVATE

OCATION

ODWALE

VENTS

HOOTS

AR AND

OOKS

Wąski Dunaj 20, 00-256 Warsaw Tel.: +48 225.599.199

barandbooks.pl

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Visit Our LOcatiOns in new YOrk and Prague

42/44 (Hotel Bristol)

Biała Expect highly individualized cocktails, a thoughtful menu and a glam, vamped up crowd every bit as beautiful as the place itself: set in a gloriously white inter-war villa, this is a place that oozes with sex appeal. There aren’t many finer outdoor gardens. ul. Francuska 2, fb.com/

Kita Koguta The staff aren’t afraid to get imaginative, and that includes serving cocktails in smoking coconut husks. Not all the experiments go as planned: on our last visit, a basic Bloody Mary was turned into an alcoholic carrot flavored fizz. (E5) ul.

bialazjedziwypij

Krucza 6/14

Charlie Crowd: glam & vampy. The venue: equally so. Occupying the first floor of a pre-war tenement, there’s a magic here that summons the age of F. Scott Fitzgerald – Gatsby would love it. The ace in the pack is a ‘subconscious menu’ from which clients order mystery cocktails based on their scent. (E6) ul. Mokotowska 39

Kiti Bar A raucous bar drawn up by the owners of the nearby Kita Koguta. Dominated by a tall Polynesian totem, this ray of sunshine gets noted for extravagant cocktails served by game staff in zany shirts. (D5)

Coctail Bar Max Can you trust a cocktail bar that can’t even spell the word? In this case, yes!

Max looks bright, cheerful and fully loaded for the sun, and also comes with a smoking alcove in the back stuffed with whisky and cigars. The cocktails are the main affair though, and here they’re extravagant efforts that resemble a tropical jungle in miniature form. Very popular with types that aspire to become footballers’ wives, etc. (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, barmax.pl

Column Bar Just the look of Column Bar sweeps you off your feet; there’s something

ul. Krucza 6/14

Na Lato Once derided as a hipster haunt, the twits have moved on, replaced instead by an increasingly on-trend crowd of rich young things. The cocktails are without doubt up there with the best in Wa-wa and the basement club area has the added boon of a glassed-in smoking room. (F5) ul.

Rozbrat 44, na-lato.com

Panorama Sky Bar The Marriott’s 40th floor Panorama has had a couple of incarnations: first, as a glitzy Dynasty throwback, and then, more recently, as something that could have passed for a business class airport lounge. Now it’s been reinvented once again, only this time successfully: find slick, vibrant interiors redolent of London

DRINK! Listings matched up with modern cocktails and twinkling views. (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79,

take comments on board and adapt their precious recipes to suit fussy tastes. (E5)

panoramabar.pl

ul. Wilcza 8, wodaognista.com

Pies Czy Suka Monochrome gun metal grey colors are offset by a young crowd attired in red shoes, pink trousers and blue headphones. This clean, concrete space is speckled with plaster moldings of reindeer heads, and excels on the cocktail front. Order from an iPad menu, before settling back for cocktails made using mad scientist, molecular techniques that involve foam, vapor, beakers and other things you’d usually find in Professor Yaffle’s lab. Certainly not as ‘mature’ as the new breed of cocktail bars, but definitely more fun. (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8A,

Zamieszanie Cuda Na Kiju have built on their continuing success by adding this spot in the glass block next to their tap pub. Here though it’s cocktails that are the draw.

Pre-bottled in a secret room downstairs, meaning none of the ad-libbed artistry of other cocktail bars, and tastes that are closer in line to 90s alcopop drinks than anything else. That doesn’t stop a young crowd from swamping the place come the weekend. (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 6/12

piesczysuka.com

The Roots Cluttered with shiny props and pieces rescued from the early days of cocktail making, The Roots could pass for a Victorian era curiosity shop. Looking past the eccentricities that comprise the interior, it’s become famous on account of irresistible drinks mixed and muddled by dapper experts that aren’t so much barmen as they are craftsmen. (C2) ul.

Wierzbowa 11

Weles A swing of the door takes visitors plunging down a blacked-out stairwell and into a basement that emerges from the darkness like a decadent Tsarist relic: glinting chandeliers glimmer over deep leather sofas, their subtle light casting a glow over an immaculate clientele. Befitting the venue, the artisanal cocktails are a work of elaborate craftsmanship, and incorporate everything from elite liquors to strips of bacon and flower petals. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 11, welesbar.pl

Woda Ognista Woda Ognista evokes the jazzy air of a Chicago, Prohibition era speakeasy with a seriously stylish interior that includes a colossal collection of vintage cocktail shakers that glint behind glass. The drinks themselves, rattled up by dapper gents in braces and flat caps, are split between house creations and reprised classics from a bygone era. Some are more successful than others, and it’s a credit to the staff that they’re willing to

Zorza Slotted inside what was once Café 6/12, Zorza embellishes the venue’s ascetic PRL style with licks of art deco: it’s an unlikely marriage that manages to work.

Do your pecking, picking, sipping and supping on an outdoor terrace set-up that encourages mingling and interaction. (D4) ul. Żurawia 6/12, zorzabistro.pl

craft beer Artezan Pub Browar Artezan’s flagship pub is a compulsory visit for all beer aficionados.

The beer is the magnetic force with eight taps blasting out pacesetter tipples from this brewery’s portfolio. The Pacific is the Insider’s all-time favorite. (D4) ul. Moniuszki 1A

Bistro Warszawski Kapsel Occupying a (very) small corner unit on Tamka, there are some who might better remember this address as the short-lived home of Heritage Birreria Artigianale – an Italian inspired craft beer bar. The beer taps have survived, only now you’ll find them tweaking out artisan brews closer to home. Of the other noteworthy changes, the addition of a TV screen resolutely tuned to any live football has been seen as another major plus. ul. Tamka 9 Chmielarnia A subterranean multi-tap found in the depths of the fishing institute. Artisan beers rule the roost here (there’s 15 taps and stacks more beer in the fridge), a point underlined by a glass coffin of warsawinsider.pl

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DRINK! Listings mainstream macro lager. While the bar gets loud and rackety, sweaty and sticky, that’s balanced out by a rotating beer offer that’s moderately priced plus a friendly, earnest audience that’s all beer geeks and know-it-alls. (B5) ul. Twarda 42 (basement level), chmielarnia.waw.pl

Chmielarnia Marszałkowska With Warsaw’s tap bars all falling over each other to stock the latest tap beers, your options are frequently similar from bar to bar – which is when a good fridge becomes important. Not only can you actually see into Chmielarnia’s, you’ll find it housing the most exciting brews trending around the globe: from the edgy Bermondsey breweries to the Scandinavian giants. Broaden your horizons! (E7) ul.

Marszałkowska 10/16, chmielarnia.waw.pl

Craft Beer Muranów Though still an area thick with beretwearing, dachshund-walking oldies, Muranów is fast catching up with the rest of Warsaw. Taking care of the craft beer angle is this newbie, a bi-level bar with warm tones and 16 taps of beery goodness. ul. Andersa 23, fb.com/craftbeermuranow

Cuda Na Kiju Where it all began. Summer catches Warsaw’s original tap bar at its best, with the courtyard of the former Communist Party HQ now home to an entirely different kind of party: on occasions find food trucks and film screenings, and all other times just a massive crowd getting sloshed on 15 types of tap beer. But even outside the sweaty months Cuda is worth the visit: drink inside a modern, glass cube that’s refreshing contemporary. (E4) ul.

Drugie Dno To plug into the pounding heart of Warsaw’s craft beer scene, look no further than Nowogrodzka. Joining the ranks of the street’s multi-tap bars is Drugie Dno, a three-level space that’s been themed to evoke the look of a disused power station.

Sporting rugged brickwork and a scuffed style, the industrialized look has been amped up to the max through the use of steel girders, vintage voltage meters and toilets disguised as elevator shafts. (D5) ul.

Nowogrodzka 4

Eufemia Even in a country that prides itself on deceptive addresses, Eufemia outdoes them all by suggesting gig-goers head to Krakowskie Przedmieście. Actually, you need ul. Traugutta, and from there to search out the salmon pink palace that’s entered via Niżyńskiego. Obvious, huh? Slipped down some narrow steps, Eufemia unwraps into a series of side rooms furbished in simple style with occasional flourishes provided by the local art school. Drinks come from 12 taps squirting out Polish craft beer, while food is a welcome affair involving pulled pork burgers, pastrami and even vegan curry.

(D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 5 Goraczka Zlota Get down with the locals at Gorączka Złota, a steamy pub with a rowdy atmosphere. Touting the dimensions of a cabin boy’s quarters, this pungent, pokey den is one of the oldest bars in town.

Despite carrying many epic beers from Poland’s rebel brewers, there’s nothing faddish about GZ and it’s this sense of normalcy that lends it its enduring appeal.

(D5) ul. Wilcza 29, goraczka-zlota.com.pl

Nowy Świat 6/12, cudanakiju.pl

Cześć It started as a café, but now Cześć is better known as being at the forefront of the new generation of ‘quali-tap’ bars – small little places with six or so beers on tap. The two owners, Piotrek and Kuba, take their beer seriously, so do expect plenty of new finds as well as traditional favorites from stalwarts like the Artezan and Pinta breweries. The laidback, neighborhood atmosphere is making it increasingly popular with a tight-knit circle of ex-pat drinkers. (C3) ul. Grzybowska 2 (through the side passage), czesc.waw.pl

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Hoppiness You’re in good hands here – opened under the patronage of the Pracownia brewery, this small-scale operation goes beyond merely offering the beers of its sponsor.

There’s 12 taps in all, a decent fridge to geek over, an ace burger and beer-based ice cream – hooray! (D4) ul. Chmielna 27/31, hoppiness.ontap.pl

Jabeerwocky Steeped in multinational drunken babble, the super sociable Jabbers is famed for its innovative beer selection and convivial atmosphere. Mark it down as an absolute

must-visit, especially if you’re a fan of stout and cider. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 12, taproom.pl

Kufle i Kapsle All levels of drinkers are catered for in this raw-looking space, from those ready to pay nosebleed prices for beers with spaceships on the label, right the way down to novices taking their first baby steps in the world of craft booze.

Interiors are balanced with the pre-war heritage of the place, and are thick with noise, clamor and the spell of spillage.

Unisex toilets, meaning there’s usually one idiotka putting a spanner in the queue code. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 25, kufleikapsle.pl

Kufle i Kapsle Żoliborz While Nowogrodzka is the beating heart of the tap bar trend, not even the suburbs are safe from this flourishing movement. By expanding out to Żoliborz, Kufle i Kapsle have cornered a captive market. There’s just seven taps here, but they’re a magnificent seven – find a great representation of Polish craft draught, not to mention a satisfying selection of international bottles. The moderate size works it in its favor, lending it a neighborly atmosphere which sees first-timers quickly converted into returning regulars. ul Popiełuszki 19/21, kufleikapsle.pl Maryensztadt Craft Beer It’s a mixed crowd of locals and tourists that gather in Maryensztadt, a large bar whose 12 taps showcase the highs (and occasional lows) produced by the brewery that gives this pub its name. Set across a series of cavernous chambers inside an attractive Old Town property, its not just beer buffs that it appeals to: sourcing their ingredients from small-scale farmsteads, the kitchen wing of Maryensztadt does a convincing job of representing the tastier side of regional Poland. (D1) ul. Szeroki Dunaj 11 Piw Paw We don’t like: the sweaty toilet, strange smells nor the scrum at the bar. We do like: the 24hr opening hours, humongous fridge and 50+ taps. Seen in the light it’s a little depressing, so visit at night when Parkingowa takes on the look of an endof-term street party. (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34 (enter from ul. Parkingowa), piwpaw.pl

DRINK! Listings Same Krafty Occupying two narrow, rugged rooms, Same Krafty have rescued Old Town from big beer brands peddling piss. Offering artisan alternatives, this intimate bar has become a magnet for those looking to explore the more subversive side of Polish brewing. (D1) ul. Nowomiejska 10, samekrafty.pl

Same Krafty Vis-à-vis You wouldn’t have thought it a year back, but reasons keep emerging to drink in the Old Town. When it comes to pubs, Same Krafty top the list, but try getting served at peak drinking time. So here’s some brilliant news: they’ve now opened another bar opposite. Pass under a dragon’s head before stepping into a supremely friendly room with ten taps, a strong bottle line-up and an atmospheric side chamber. (D1) ul.

Nowomiejska 11/13, samekrafty.pl

Spiskowcy Rozkoszy The ground floor is an intimate space with lots of yet-to-be-famous beers and junky, antique furniture that reminds of the Boho hangouts in Kraków. But what was a packed, little bar is now a packed, big bar with the opening of the basement: find a labyrinth of rooms and psychedelic toilets with pulsating lights – you soon wonder who spiked your drink. And oh, the drinks.

Expect IPA and APA beers served from the six taps. (D5) ul. Żurawia 47/49, spiskowcy.pl Warzą się Losy “Nowhere in Warsaw,” boasts the barman, “has more beer taps per square meter.”

Despite its diminutive footprint, WsL punches above its weight with eight taps turning out new generation Polish beer.

Decked out like an anechoic chamber, the combination of good beer and mouse hole dimensions mean that it doesn’t take long for conversations to crossover with the scattering of strangers at the bar. Soon enough everyone’s drinking together and toasting the night. (D7) ul. Oleandrów 3

joints in London and Vegas, it’s a refined choice with a no-pressure atmosphere and door staff that don’t look like they’re going to kick your head in. (B3) Al. Solidarności 82A, playhouse.pl

live music Chwila Entered under a red, cabaret-style awning, Chwila is a reject factory space turned good. Furry cushions, patchwork quilts and student art vie for attention alongside iron girders and industrial leftovers inside what is becoming known as one of the top alternative music venues this side of the river. The toilet alone, papered with trillions of cool posters and magazine covers, is a reason to linger.

Stop press: closed in March!

Pijalnia Havoc reigns in Pijalnia, and watching all the tears and tiffs on a Friday night is something of a spectator sport. Pickles and vodka are the essential order, while reading matter is supplied via commieera sports reports that are plastered to the wall. many locations, fb.com/pijalnia. warszawa

Pyk i Łyk Thundering through a flimsy door, customers are met by a tiny, divey area

Hydrozagadka Set out in the wildlands of Praga, consider Hydrozagadka as the heart of unforced cool. Known for its alternative music scene, the low-ceiling and tight, crowded nature of it generate an electrifying atmosphere where the audience and band become one. Walking a fine line between industrial and straight out decrepit, the atmosphere is second to none: drinks flow, strangers meet and music smashes out: you can feel something special happening here. ul. 11 Listopada 22

vodka Dom Wódki Those expecting Dom Wódki to be a standard mucky shot bar are in for a surprise.

Sparkling with over 250 artisanal vodkas, find them incorporated into inspirational drinks mixed by Tomasz Małek, a world champion flair bartender. More than just show, the tastes are incredible. (C2) ul.

10%

Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl

for gentlemen Playhouse Housed in a former subterranean bomb shelter, the talk now is of bombshells: namely the 57 stunners they’ve got listed on their books. Inspired by high class

Meta Chains of old bog paper, Karol Gott album covers and other Communist keepsakes litter this shot bar. But for a real blast to the past, visit their Parkingowa venue for a full-on, Polski-style retro disco. It’s hilarious. ul. Mazowiecka 11 / Foksal 21 / Parkingowa 5 warsawinsider.pl

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DRINK! Listings that’s devoid of furnishings aside from shelves of vodka and a bar that’s been painted to depict dripping blood. Yikes!

Decorated with bizarre montages of hard drinking rockers, once visitors settle into their vodka rhythm, it reveals itself as a bar of greatness. “No wi-fi,” shouts one sign, “talk to each other and get drunk.”

It’s that kind of place. (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 26

wine bars Ale Wino!

Without doubt, peak time is the summer when drinkers congregate on a courtyard deck shielded by a sail. But winter ain’t so bad either with this covert wine bar unraveling to reveal a series of little chambers. The wine choice is comprehensive and it’s ably supported by some of the best cooking in the city: chef Sebastian Wełpa is one of Warsaw’s great, golden talents.(E5) ul. Mokotowska 48, alewino.pl

Bubbles Such is the style of Bubbles it feels like Valentine’s all year round: high on intimacy, it’s a charming ensemble of rickety crates and deep, dark colors. But the clincher, that’s the prodigious selection of champagne. Now while you’d usually expect a champagne bar to be filled with footballers wives and berks with fake tans, Bubbles feels inclusive, convivial and anything but vain. (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, bubbles.com.pl

Dekant Wine Bar Set inside an attractive open space, the opening of Dekant is a further indication of Powiśle’s shift from hipster epicenter to upscale playground (Robert Lewandowski has been spotted here!). The list comprises over 400 wines from the most prestigious producers in the world, right the way down to tiny, little vineyards you’ve probably never heard of. If the sun is out, aim for a place on their back terrace. (E3) ul. Zajęcza 15, dekant.com.pl Dyletanci Often filled to capacity with crisp, modern citizens that radiate confidence, join them on green banquettes illuminated with Tom Dixon lamps. The wine list is fitting of the A-list, and aside from exceptional interna-

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tional choices, also includes interesting wines from the proprietor’s own label – a frankly superb Polish brand called Dom Bliskowice. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44, dyletanci.pl Hoża You’ll probably know Hoża as the home of steak. But what is meat without wine? complementing the Argentine-inspired cooking is a wine list particularly dense with reds. (D5) ul. Hoża 25a, hoza.warszawa.pl Kieliszki Na Hożej Already celebrated for their operation on Próżna, this latest branch continues in much the same vein: classy interiors, a prime location on one of Warsaw’s few surviving pre-war streets and a casual bistro vibe matched up against a glorious Italian influenced wine list. The concise food menu connects local Polish to classic French and adds an interesting modern twist. ul. Hoża 41, kieliszkinahozej.pl Mielżyński Wine Bar Robert Mielżyński, a Canadian-born oenologist, awakened Warsaw’s love affair with the grape when he launched Mielżyński in 2004, and it continues to serve as the accepted benchmark to which all wine bars aspire. Their cause is amply boosted by a fine selection of bites to accompany the superlative wine offer. Find it in a pared down warehouse that emanates casual city cool. (A1) ul.

Burakowska 5/7, mielzynski.pl

Mielzynski Wine Bar After three years in the pipeline Warsaw’s second outpost of Mielżyński is everything you’d expect: the concise menu is never too complex while the exciting wine choice presents over 500 labels. This vibrant warehouse-style space promises much. (G9) ul. Czerska 12, mielzynski.pl Pani Wina The underlying problem with Warsaw’s wine bars is that too many feel like places of business: anonymous venues filled with suits striking deals. Then, on the other hand, there’s Pani Wina, a place whose design (olive walls, parquet floors, mustard-tinted seating) maximizes the ambiance of this narrow, little nook.

That the concise range of tap wines is supplemented by an equally welcome choice of renegade cocktails makes it all the better. (E5) ul. Wilcza 11, fb.com/PaniWina

Rusiko Wine Bar Designed to act as a casual extension of the neighboring Rusiko restaurant, this wine bar showcases Warsaw’s biggest selection of Georgian wine inside an interior that feels intimate, jazzy and highly atmospheric. Elaborate rugs, deep rouge in color, hang from tall sapphire walls, while impossibly high ceilings do much to generate a swirl of soft, muffled sound. A place of good mood and organic hospitality, it’s no surprise to learn that the bitey menu is an ample reflection of Rusiko’s award-winning reputation. (E5) Al. Ujazdowskie 22, fb.com/winebarrusiko

WinKolekcja The selection of New World wines is exceptional, though classicists are also catered for via an extensive choice of Spanish, French and Italian wines. Their highly recommended restaurant provides further reason to linger inside a design that has the routine look of a club class lounge. (E10) ul. Olkuska 7 Winosfera Once a pre-war cinema, now a stunning wine bar / store with one of the most impressive collections in Poland: an expense account comes in handy. Equally notable is the ambitious fine dining menu of Jakub Adamczyk. (B3) ul. Chłodna 31l Winsky One of the strongest openings in recent months (on second thoughts, make that the strongest opening in recent months) presents a menu of itsty, teeny plates, a maverick selection of tap wines, top notch whisky, and an interior that’s all restrained velvety opulence. And then there’s the backdrop – nestled on the ground floor of The Tides development, windows face out onto the inky black waters of the river and the sparkling stadium just beyond. (F4) ul. Wioślarska 10 Żurawina This large white room gets criticized for its jarring artwork and staffing blips – in the world of wine it’s important the customer can connect to the staff: here, we felt like we were joining the SS. But both food and wine score highly, and they’ve earned a staunchly loyal following that includes high flying types and Paris Hilton wannabes that carry yappy dogs in their bag. (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34, zurawina.eu

DO!

BACK TO THE FUTURE!

Time Machine Minigolf takes budding golfers of all size and age through various exciting chapters of the world’s history: starting at the beginning of the galaxy, time traveling golfers will visit ancient Egypt, the Wild West and, even… the future! Designed by Blacklight, this glow in the dark course makes use of funky 3D glasses to add a vivid twist of depth to an already bonkers experience…

Time Machine Minigolf Blue City (Floor 3), Al. Jerozolimskie 179, timemachineminigolf.pl

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Do! Review

The views of the exhibition “The Future Will Be Different” at th Zachęta National Gallery of Art, Warsaw, photo

by Marek Krzyżanek

THE FUTURE WILL BE DIFFERENT...

Running until the end of May, a new exhibition at the Zachęta examines the ideas and initiatives that gave the forgotten classes hope during the interwar years…

F

ocusing on Poland’s interwar period, The Future Will Be Different gets to grips with the social ideas that were born from the nation’s independence in 1918.

Spotlighting previously silent voices – women, children, ethnic minorities and the general proletariat – this exhibition views the Poland of the 1920s and 30s through the eyes of these groups whilst at the same time presenting the story of their emancipation and the various ideas that remain valid to this day.

Set across seven immaculately staged rooms, over 500 objects have been assembled to demonstrate the most valuable social and cultural philosophies of the era. Seen nowadays as almost utopian visions, the exhibition looks carefully at “the macro-scale changes that manifested themselves in

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new urban concepts and architectural solutions.” As such, the revolutionary WSM housing estates built by the Warsaw Housing Cooperative in Żoliborz and Rakowiec figure highly, and so too the basic principles of the cooperative movement. Constructed in close consultation with future residents, these estates featured such perks as ‘plant boarding houses’ in which gardeners would revive dying plants, and ‘home clinics’ that provided advice on home planning and furniture rental.

Closely associated with these ideals of social modernization was education, and the interwar period saw a spike in the creation of ‘model mini societies’ such as the ‘glasshouse’ kindergarten in Żoliborz – here, furnishings included ergonomic fixtures pioneered in Poland.

Neither were sport, art and leisure time bypassed during the social rethink, and The Future Will Be Different examines how all of these were utilized to further emancipate social groups that had, hitherto, been largely overlooked in society’s grand order. In the case of women, this included active participation in film and photography with many going on to broach previously taboo subjects.

At the root of this exhibition stands the democratization of culture, with the grassroots initiatives that made this possible thrust to the fore and presented as the key drivers of change. A stunning, in-depth glimpse at this Brave New World, this landmark exhibition is made all the more poignant by the knowledge that this bold, bright future was set to come crashing in the years that followed.

Zachęta National Gallery of Art Pl. Małachowskiego 3, zacheta.art.pl (right) Vegetable Garden, Żoliborz, 1930s, WSM Hall of History

(above) Janina Mierzecka, from the Working Hand series, 1924–1938, in Henryk Mierzecki, Ręka pracująca. Warsaw, 1947, private collection

At the root of this exhibition stands the democratization of culture, with the grassroots initiatives that made this possible thrust to the fore and presented as the key drivers of change

(above) Maria Ewa Łunkiewicz-Rogoyska, Swimming Pool, 1939, oil on canvas, National Museum in Wrocław

(left) Zofia Mussilowa nee Kosińska with the Światowid newspaper, holding a yo-yo in her hands, 1932, History of Photography Museum in Krakow

(left) The fate and misery of our children, photographs

by Aleksander Minorski, Tadeusz Bukowski, editor Jozef Włodarski, graphic design: Wanda Zawidzka, Krakow 1938, private collection

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DO! Museums

M U S E U M O F WA R S AW

Car Museum From Lech Wałesa’s Volvo to Gomułka’s ZIS limo, from German wartime armor to a pretty-in-pink Buick Skylark: incredible in its peculiarity, the random layout, oily smells and cobwebbed corners only add to the sense of treading somewhere special. ul. Warszawska 21 (Otrębusy), muzuem-motorzyacji.com.pl

ul. Karowa 20, dsh.waw.pl

Ethnographic Museum Considerably revamped to meet the demands and attention-spans of the 21st century sightseer, the Ethnographic Museum is a visual pleasure that showcases colorful costumes, fabrics and ceramics from Poland and beyond. ul. Kredytowa 1, ethnomuseum.pl

Copernicus Science Centre Featuring hundreds of interactive exhibitions, it’s a place that allows young and old alike to blast objects into space, experience an earthquake or steer exploratory robots. ul.

Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, kopernik.org.pl

CSW Situated in a baroque-style castle CSW hosts artists from all over the world. The on-site bookshop is of particular interest for artists and intellectuals. ul. Jazdów 2, csw.art.pl

Dom Spotkań z Historią The History Meeting House wins points for small but frequently excellent exhibitions that cover topics such as ‘rebuilding Warsaw’ and ‘Socialist Realist architecture.’

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Fotoplastikon Thought to date from 1905, Warsaw’s Fotoplastikon generates 3D perspectives from a set of 2D images: visitors peer through an eyepiece and are taken on a trip around the world while music from days yore parps away in the background. Al. Jerozolimskie 51, fotoplastikonwarszawski.pl

Fryderyk Chopin Museum The 18th century Ostrogski Palace is the perfect foil for the ultra-modern content of this multi-sensory space. The personal items are enchanting, but the big victory here is the museum’s ability to suck visitors right back into the times of Chopin through the use of interactive sights and sounds. ul. Okólnik 1, chopin.museum

POLIN

The Heritage Interpretation Center This small venue tells the complex story of Old Town’s reconstruction: if the first section about Warsaw’s physical elimination is poignant, then the others do a fabulous job of sharing the optimism and alacrity that followed. ul.

Brzozowa 11-13, mhw.pl

Invisible Exhibition Head to the Invisible Exhibition to learn first-hand the challenges faced by the blind.

This includes everything from crossing the road to ordering a drink in a bar. Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, niewidzialna.pl

Jewish Historical Institute Officially opened in 1947 the Jewish Historical Institute was created to serve as an archive of Jewish culture in Warsaw. It contains artwork, historical artifacts and important documents from the city’s rich Jewish past. ul.

merit, the museum has done a stunning job of collecting and presenting artifacts relating to the slaughter. ul. Jeziorańskiego 4, muzeumkatynskie.pl

Marie Skłodowska-Curie Musuem Reopened after a significant re-haul, this museum celebrates the groundbreaking scientist that discovered polonium. The Curie-osities include lab equipment, her trademark black dress and even her nail file. ul. Freta 16, en.muzeum-msc.pl

Museum of Communist Life Lovingly assembled by its young owner, the museum is split into a few different sections: one devoted to state and subversive literature, and another that recreates an empty store typical of the times. Our highlight, though, is the recreation of a commie-era apartment. ul.

Tłomackie 3/5, jhi.pl

Glucha (opposite Soho Factory), adventurewarsaw.com

Katyń Museum This museum commemorates the murder of 21,000 Polish officers by the Soviets in the spring of 1940. Beyond its quite staggering architectural

Museum of Praga The Praga Museum tells the story of the area with such charm and simplicity that it manages to leave an unlikely impression that’s as punchy

DO! Museums

P I N B A L L S TAT I O N

as that of the big institutions.

Star billing goes to a restored Jewish prayer room and the Flying Carpet: an exhibit festooned with various trinkets and treasures once available for purchase from local pavement traders. ul. Targowa 50/52, muzeumwarszawy.pl

Museum of Warsaw Over 8,000 objects detail the story of Warsaw, and these include peculiar souvenirs, scale models, old postcards and recovered works of art.

Cohesive and comprehensive yet never too overwhelming, the trail climaxes with vertiginous views of the Rynek below. Unmissable.

Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42, muzeumwarszawy.pl

National Museum Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars. Al. Jerozolim-

firmly on the PRL era, a time when the nation’s best graphic designers were nutty for neon. ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org

Palmiry National Memorial Museum An excellent multimedia exhibition set next to a cemetery holding the graves of 1,700 Poles executed in the first years of Nazi occupation.

The museum tells their forgotten story as well as that of the siege and subsequent occupation of Warsaw. Palmiry, palmiry.mhw.pl

Pawiak What was once a Tsarist prison assumed a doubly sinister function under the Nazis.

Some 100,000 Polish political prisoners were held here, 37,000 of which were executed on-site. Split in two sections, cells are found on one side, while on the other the full story of the invasion and occupation. ul. Dzielna 24/26

skie 3, mnw.art.pl

The Neon Museum Filled with salvaged signage, this museum houses several dozen neons that once lit up the capital. The emphasis is

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Pinball Station While it’s filled with relics in the truest sense of the word (the eldest being Brillant Torero produced in Germany in 1938), the pinball machines

THE NEON MUSEUM

are here to be enjoyed to the max. A flat fee gains you unlimited game time on the likes of Dirty Harry, Buck Rogers and Dr. Dude & His Excellent X-Ray. Supplementing their number are a feast of arcade games such as Pac-Man and Mortal Kombat. ul. Kolejowa 8A, pinballstation.pl

Polin Composed of eight galleries, covering a different stage of local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day. Highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec synagogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical inter-war Jewish Warsaw street. Named the European Museum of the Year in 2016. ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl

The Royal Castle in Warsaw Highlights include the lavishly restored 18th century royal apartments with 22 paintings

by Canaletto, the Senators’ Chamber in which the Constitution of the Third of May was signed, the biggest collection of oriental rugs in Europe and two remarkable Rembrandt paintings. Pl. Zamkowy 4, zamek-krolewski.pl

Warsaw Rising Museum Discover the definitive story of the 1944 Uprising.

Exhibits range from a full-size replica of a Liberator plane, to a sewer beneath the cinema screen and a slice of bread preserved from 1944. And don’t miss the ‘City of Ruins’, a five minute 3D film which takes you on an aerial journey over devastated Warsaw. ul.

Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl Wola Museum What was once a dreary old place has been rebooted as a smart community-minded museum and one of the most forward-thinking institutions in the capital. Bringing the wider area of Wola alive, find engaging content that’s creatively presented: posters, family memorabilia and various media relating to the area. ul. Srebrna 12, mhw.pl Zachęta National Art Gallery Regarded as one of Poland’s most prestigious galleries, the Zachęta has a busy program of temporary exhibitions that frequently showcase some of the biggest names in domestic and international contemporary art. Pl. Małachowskiego 3, zacheta.art.pl

NEW COLLECTION

DO! Education listings preschools American School of Warsaw American School of Warsaw provides a rich, meaningful and balanced educational experience through age-appropriate activities to students aged 3 to 5. For further information and/or to visit our school, contact:admissions@aswarsaw.org or 22 ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel.

22 702 85 00, aswarsaw.org 702

85 00.

each class starting from Year 1. ul. Hlonda 12, bsww.pl

Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, canadian-school.pl

The British School Early Years Centre The British School provides EYFS classes from Pre-nursery (age 30 months) to Reception (5 years old). Children develop quickly and their Early Years practitioners aim to do all they can to help your child have the best possible start in life and become a lifelong learner. ul. Dąbrowskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646 7777 , thebritishschool.pl

The British Primary School of Wilanów Following the National Curriculum of England and Wales, this is the first School in Poland subject to the inspection of the UK Independent School Inspectorate. Pupils receive British and, upon request, Polish reports/ diplomas. The school follows a closed admissions policy and limits enrollment of one nationality to below 50% of

Science, Physical Education, Art, Music & Rhythmics, French and Polish classes. ul.

The Canadian School of Warsaw Preschool Welcoming students from the ages of 2.5 to 6 years old, currently 45% of their admissions are international students. The dedicated, IB-trained teachers deliver an innovative program (PYP) in English designed for modern world needs. The program offers a combination of Literacy, Maths, Social Studies,

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations) Warsaw Montessori School Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have three green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in earlychildhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob.

692 099 134, warsawmontessori. edu.pl

International Trilingual School of Warsaw Established in 1994, the Trilingual School of Warsaw

offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fillimmersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/ saint-exupery.pl

The English Playhouse The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old. For more info or to arrange a tour call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email: jnowak@ theenglishplayhouse.com ul.

Pływiańska 14a, tel. 22 843 9370, tep.edu.pl

Casa dei Bambini Warsaw Montessori School accepting

applications for all our locations and programs: Infant & Toddler: age 15 months-2.5 years, Casa: age 2.5-6 years Contact Karolina: tel. 692 099 134 office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl Elementary: age 6-9, 9-12 years Contact Sylvia: tel. 606 276 112 sylvia@warsawmontessori.edu.pl

warsaw montessori family

"Erdkinder" Middle School: age 12-15 years Contact Małgosia: tel. 604 137 826 malgosia@warsawmontessori.edu.pl Warszawa: Szwoleżerów 4, Badowska 19, Tatrzańska 5a, Izabelin-Hornówek: Szkolna 16

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www.wmf.edu.pl

DO! Education listings Happy Montessori House The Happy Montessori House offers part-time and full-time places for children aged between 2 to 6 years, as well as toddler-focused activities (from 18 months to 3 years) centered around movement, sensorial stimulation, storytelling, singing and socializing.

Warsaw Montessori Pre-school, ul. Rumiana 14, tel. 22 423 50 75, mob. 697 060 504, hmh.com.pl

Maple Tree Montessori Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological

& healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). ul.

Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, mapletreemontessori.pl

Międzynarodowa Szkoła Podstawowa Argonaut This elementary school is open for children of all nationalities and backgrounds. It places a focus on learning English as well as additional languages, and has an attractive list of available extracurricular activities.ul. Radarowa 6, tel. 504 509 504, argonaut.edu.pl

Montessori Academy for International Children An English-speaking preschool (16 months to 6 years

of age) with two locations.

The school’s policy is to comply with Montessori standards, using the Montessori Method in English. The school’s philosophy is based on the joy of learning, which comes from discovering and furthering the individual development of each child. ul.

Królewicza Jakuba 36 (Wilanów), ul. Sadowa 4 (Konstancin), Open 8:00-16:45, tel. 502 315 022, montessoriacademy.eu

schools American School of Warsaw ASW is a premier collegepreparatory international school that offers a PK-12

curriculum, including the IB Diploma Program in Grades 11 and 12. Students are inspired and challenged every day by experienced and dedicated teachers, who provide enriching learning opportunities in a world class facility. For further information contact: admissions@ aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00. ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, aswarsaw.org

The British Primary School of Wilanów Following the National Curriculum of England and Wales, this is the first School in Poland subject to the inspection of the UK Independent School Inspector-

Celebrating

25 years of

British Education in Warsaw

www.thebritishschool.pl

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DO! Education listings ate. Pupils receive British and, upon request, Polish reports/ diplomas. The school follows a closed admissions policy and limits enrollment of one nationality to below 50% of each class starting from Year 1. ul. Hlonda 12, bsww.pl

The British School Premium international school established in 1992 by Nord Anglia Education. The curriculum is designed to provide the highest academic quality of education. They follow the English National Curriculum, adapted to the needs of their international student community: from Primary through to the Secondary Key Stages to the IGCSE examinations and a

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well-established International Baccalaureate (IB) Diploma Program. ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, thebritishschool.pl

ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, warsawmontessori.edu.pl

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations) Warsaw Montessori School Guided by trained specialists, students will be responsible for managing their household, operating small businesses, caring for local flora and fauna as well as domesticated animals, taking charge of the younger children and much more. “Adolescence Program” activities, integrated with academic studies, help students discover their inner strength to meet life’s real challenges.

The English Primary The English Primary is designed specifically for children in the primary education ages, just as children experience in England but in an international community.

Pupils are taken through the key learning stages so that they can achieve to the best of their ability through a fun learning experience. The Core Curriculum subjects include English, Phonics, Science, Mathematics, French, PE and Swimming, Music, Personal,

Warsaw Insider | APRIL 2018

Social and Health Education. ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 784 037 808, tep.edu.pl

The Canadian School of Warsaw International Elementary and Middle School Located on two campuses in the Mokotów this is the only authorized IB School with PYP programs taught in English and Polish. French is taught as a third language. Offers a wide range of extra activities, a summer school, and employs a full time psychologist. Provision is made for additional Polish and English support.

International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create the

DO! Education listings perfect learning environment. ul. Bełska 7, tel. 692 411 573 / 885 420 044, secretary@canadianschool.pl or secretary.olimpijska@ canadian-school.pl

International Trilingual School of Warsaw Established in 1994, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and

pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fillimmersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel.

501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16,

tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/saint-exupery.pl

Monnet International School Located in Mokotów, the Monnet is the only school in Poland that implements the International Baccalaureate Program from kindergarten level all the way through to secondary school. The fullyqualified staff are committed

to delivering only the highest standards of education. ul.

Stępińska 13, tel. 22 852 06 08, maturamiedzynarodowa.pl

Warsaw Montessori School Focuses on the Montessori curriculum with an education based on the integration of conceptual learning and real-life experiences. ul.

Szwoleżerów 4, tel. 22 841 3908, warsawmontessori.edu.pl

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DO! Shopping Listings accessories Agent Provocateur The boutique is stocked full of the latest collection – gorgeous lacy bras with scrumptious attention to detail, matching panties, teddies and a bunch of strappy get-ups you can only get away with if you’re very fit or very confident, but preferably both. ul. Mokotowska 59, agentprovocateur.com

di Trevi Boutique Aimed at both him and her, di Trevi present the freshest Italian footwear releases from prestigious brands such as Ballin and Loriblu. Piękna 11A,

same time exuding a subtle sense of timeless romance. ul.

Bracka 5, mintydot.pl

Mo61 Billed as a ‘perfume laboratory’, Mo61 allows customers to create their own scents under the expert guidance of staff trained by Zygmunt Marczewski (“the best nose in Poland”!). ul. Mokotowska 61, Pingle Optyk A collection of hand-selected designer eyewear that is serious in terms of quality control, but entirely whimsical when it comes to design. ul.

Hoża 40

Schubert Rings, bracelets, necklaces and watches produced using the finest Baltic amber. Or for a unique gift, how about an amber chess set or an amber cigarette lighter? ul.

ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), hardrockcafe.pl

HOS&me Luxury jewelry and the best in the biz. In stock: high end treasures from Nialaya, Lene Bjerre Design, Ti Sento, Christensen and Dryberg/ Kern. ul. Mokotowska 63, mokotowska63.com

Minty Dot Top quality Polish jewelry composed using gold, silver and natural stone. Contemporary in style, these are accessories that radiate class and craftsmanship while at the

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Joanna Klimas One of Poland’s top fashion designers runs this boutique/ showroom. Choose from the latest collections or have a dress custom made for a particular occasion. ul.

Moliera 2, moliera2.com

Nowolipki 2, joannaklimas.com

Likus Concept Store The Likus Concept Store brings ultra-chic designer clothing to Warsaw. The latest collections from Diesel, D2, Ferre, Stone Island, Sophia Kokosalaki and J. Lindeberg are all available and presented in this stylish three-floor department store. ul. Bracka 9 (Vitkac), likusconceptstore.pl

Piwna 12/14, ul. Piwna 26, ul. Świętojańska 11

Krucza 57, eokulary.pl

Hard Rock Cafe No wardrobe is complete without the iconic Hard Rock t-shirt! Find the Warsawstamped version available here, along with other extras for the all American look.

Moncler, One Teaspoon, Simonetta Ravizza, Tod’s, Tory Burch, Valentino, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon. ul.

mo61.pl

ditrevi.pl

Duo Optyk Glasses and shades from brands such as Ray-Ban, Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Chanel, Chloe and Hugo Boss.

Online ordering available. ul.

meeting by calling tel. 535 545 728. ul. Mokotowska 64 (Plac Trzech Krzyży), balthazar.pl

Yope Hand creams, lotions, liquid soaps, gels and cleaning products made using top quality, natural ingredients.

Fragrant and funkily packaged, scents include cinnamon, honey, verbena and vanilla. Plac Żelaznej Bramy 1 (Hala Gwardii), yope.me

fashion Ania Kuczyńska Ania Kuczyńska is becoming well known for her highly fashionable, minimalist clothing designs. The store also carries adorable baby clothes and various accessories. ul.

Mokotowska 61

Balthazar An atelier, boutique and private tailor with several unique brands. Book your

Małgorzata Marszałek Out with the old and in with the new. If you’re looking to change your image then look no further than Małgorzata Marszałek, a style expert that will revamp your look in a way that’s guaranteed to boost self-confidence. “You’ll save time,” promises Małgorzata, “because I know how and where t shop – I make life easier.” malgorzata.marszalek@ lookoflaw.com, tel. 602 388 300

Pan Tu Nie Stal Polish design at its peak: fashion is prominent, but there’s also interesting bitsy things such as aprons, jam jars, notebooks and mugs – all with a defiantly Polish twist.

Eccentric, unusual and emphatically on-trend, it’s a must-visit. Koszykowa 35/40, pantuniestal.com

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Brands include: Beach Bunny, Buscemi, Canada Goose, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Dsquared 2, Christian Louboutin, Fay, Gianvito Rossi, Hogan, Kenzo, Kotur, Moncler, Mr& Mrs Italy, One Teaspoon, Ralph Lauren, Simonetta Ravizza, Tom Ford, Tory Burch, Valentino, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon. Childrenswear: Burberry Children, Dsquared2 Kids, Kenzo Kids, Moncler Kids, Ralph Lauren Kids, Tod’s Kids.

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, plactrzechkrzyzy.com

Ptasia 6 A unique ladies concept store showcasing the works of both emerging and established independent Polish fashion labels such as Eva Grygo, Confashion, Horror! Horror!, Kasia Miciak and Polanka. ul.

Ptasia 6, ptasia6.pl

Moliera 2 Boutique Brands include: Alexandre Birman, Alexandre Vauthier, Anya Hindmarch, Aquazzura, Balmain, Beach Bunny, Buscemi, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Francesco Russo, Gianvito Rossi, Herve Leger, Isabel Marant, Jimmy Choo, Kenzo, Kotur, Maison Michel,

QπШ - Robert Kupisz One of Warsaw’s hottest fashion icons, and a trip here soon explains why. The exclusive, handmade garments are a guaranteed head turner. ul.

Mokotowska 48/204 (courtyard), robertkupisz.com

Reykjavik District Chic, well-cut menswear for

DO! Shopping Listings all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal. ul. Burakowska 15,

that hail straight from New York, London and Tokyo. ul.

Burakowska 5/7

reykjavikdistrict.com

Risk. Made In Warsaw Mixing modern shapes with expert tailoring, the idea was to create a look that’s both comfortable yet chic. That they’ve been featured in the likes of Vogue and Elle suggests that this target has been accomplished. ul. Szpitalna 9, riskmadeinwarsaw.com

Sabotage Those in-the-know know Sabotage as one of the places to buy funky deconstructed denim and sportswear pieces. Here you’ll find a wide array of unique clothes, hats, belts and handbags in a variety of fabrics and styles

Safripsti Formerly a make-up artist in London and Paris, owner Magdalena returned to Poland to open a vintage boutique.

Buying wholesale – meaning prices are kept in check – her fashion store presents finds like authentic cheerleader outfits and Hawaiian shirts for summer, not to mention a great selection of denim, parkers and so forth. ul.

progressive edge – choose from limited pret a porter collection and exclusive haute couture creations. ul. Chopina

Al. Wyzwolenia 3/5

5B, violaspiechowicz.com

Wake Up The Bear Stylish ‘travel practical’ clothes as designed by the acclaimed Viola Spiechowicz. Featuring natural fabrics and multipurpose add-ons, this is the ultimate in comfort clothes. ul.

Cotton Ball Lights Offering 40 different varieties and colors of cotton-wrapped bulbs, these simple lights stand to transform your living space with their soft, gentle glow. ul. Chmielna 27/31, cottonballlights.pl

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home

Oleandrów 3

Viola Śpiechowicz Inspiring, unpretentious and highly creative, Viola Śpiechowicz reinvisions what it means to be feminine by giving classic styles a

monthly basis, include a variety of media created by artists from all over Europe.

Apteka Sztuki Apteka Sztuki is an art gallery that features collections by up-and-coming contemporary artists, preferring promising unknowns to big names. The exhibits, which rotate on a

Dado Design ‘Beauty, modernity and functionality’. It’s on these foundations Dado’s philosophy is built. Touting brands such as Bruhl, Gaber, Slide and Infiniti, this design store carries pieces chosen for their style and originality.

Find it all from sofas and tables to picture frames and

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DO! Shopping Listings salt shakers. ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), dadodesign.pl Długa Showroom Decorative plaster materials from Novacolor and porcelain from Visa Alegre (the official china of the White House and Buckingham Palace) are a couple of reasons to go here for spending. ul. Długa 8/14, dlugashowroom.pl

Galeria 2 Deco A small yet concise collection of brilliant home furnishings that combine the classic with contemporary at fair prices.

Special orders and consulting also available. ul. Wilcza 71, 2deco.pl

Le Pukka For interior inspirations take a look at Le Pukka: highly original furniture and

decorative pieces for the home come from the likes of Smeg, AreaDeclic, HK Living and Zuiver. ul. Solec 58/60, lepukka.pl Lipova Showroom Products from Bolon, Vitra and Philips take center stage in Lipova, an edgy store that will reinvent your home / office.

From Bolon, find unique 3D flooring, from Vitra, modern Swiss furniture pieces and from Philips, Lumiblade OLEDs. ul. Lipowa 7A, lipova.pl

Makutra To know and not to cook, is not to know. This store has everything a master chef seeks: from tagines to mezzalunas, it’s got the lot covered. Huge stock of cook books and kitchenware. ul.

Oleandrów 5, makutra.com

noon/noon Well-balanced as a coffee bar / showroom where you can interact and experience the functionality and quality of the furniture first hand. ul.

Magazyn Praga A visit to this home design store is guaranteed to transform your apartment.

Showcasing emerging Polish talent, the items here are not without humor: ceramic French bulldogs are particularly popular. ul. Mińska

Porcelanowa Award-winning, contemporary Polish porcelain produced by cult, internationally recognized brands such as Aoomi and Fenek. ul. Kredytowa 2,

25 (Soho Factory)

porcelanowa.com

M e d i a Pa t r o n a g e

Pańska 98 (enter from ul. Prosta), noonnoon.pl

Reset Point Relocated to new premises, this outstanding home design shop balances fun, retro kitsch with ultra cool works from both upcoming and established local creatives.

Endlessly fun and eccentric it’s a treasure trove of renovated antique furniture, assorted curios lifestyle essentials. ul.

J.Dąbrowskiego 16, resetpoint.pl

X I I I A F RY K A M E R A F E S T I VA L 13-21 APRIL

Going under the hashtag #BlackFilmsMatter, the 13th edition of this festival aims not just to promote African cinema, but to tackle current political-social issues important not only to Africa, but the whole world. The festival will be comprised of five different sub-sections, among them, Green Africa which will present films focused on ecological issues; New Colors of the Rainbow, which hopes to counteract general perceptions of South Africa; and Cairo Smile, which will look at the post-revolutionary comedic scene in Egypt.

KINOTEKA PL. DEFILAD 1, AFRYKAMERA.PL TICKETS ZŁ. 18 (ZŁ. 15 PRE-SALE)

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Scandinavian Living Representing upcoming Swedish, Danish and Finnish designers as well as several truly iconic names, Scandinavian Living presents such finds as tablecloths from Lazy Linen, ceramics by Bloomingville, and fun tableware from Muminki. ul. Wiertnicza 155, scandinavianliving.pl

malls & department stores Arkadia Not many Polish malls do it better. Stores inc. Mango, Lacoste, Guess, Hilfiger and Peek & Cloppenburg. Al. Jana Pawła II 82, arkadia.com.pl

Galeria Mokotów Stores inc. Calvin Klein, Hollister, Hugo Boss, New Balance, Royal Collection and Timberland. ul. Wołoska 12, galeriamokotow.com.pl

Klif House of Fashion Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has a line-up of top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko. ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl

Plac Unii One of Warsaw’s latest mall counts Armani Jeans, Liu-Jo and Pandora amongst its upmarket tenants. ul. Puławska 2, placunii.pl

Mysia 3 Set in Poland’s former censorship office, the line-up includes Scandinavian fashion in Cos, shoes from My Paris, unconventional fashion from Nenukko and more. ul. Mysia 3, mysia3.pl

Vitkac Wolf Bracka Poland’s first luxury department store gathers the world’s top designers under one roof, with brands including Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton, Stella McCartney and Rick Owens. And that’s the tip of the iceberg. Vitkac, ul. Bracka 9, likusconceptstore.pl

Secret Life (of Things) An ‘eco lifestyle concept store’ full of bio-friendly scents, cosmetics, hand-made trinkets and housewares, rustic furnishings and detox teas. ul.

Złote Tarasy Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Jatomi Health and Fitness Club. ul.

Dąbrowskiego 15A, secretlife.pl

Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl

DO! Health Listings gyms

Exuma Gym Warsaw’s latest luxury gym features equipment by Life Fitness and Hammer Strength, a wellness zone, private parking and stunning views of the National Stadium across the river. ul. Wioślarska 10, exumagym.com

Holmes Place Premium Three ‘premium locations’, with the Hilton and Regent branches housing a 25-meter pool. Sauna and steam room facilities are available in all all three, as are a varied timetable of classes plus personal training. ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel), ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), holmesplace.pl

Little Gym Targeted at children, expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructorto-child ratio, original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. ul. Bruzdowa 56, thelittlegym.pl

McFit A 2,000 sq/m studio that utilizes the latest technology as well as ‘cyber training’ programs. Open 24/7, with membership from zł. 89 per month. ul. Świętokrzyska 3 (corner of Nowy Świat), mcfit.com

Quantum Fitness A place of quiet, understated luxury, equipment is state-ofthe-art and complemented by expert trainers at the peak of their game. This is the full 24-carat gym experience. ul.

speaking instructors. This is not a leisurely Sunday pedal, but a high energy workout with a banging soundtrack and constant interaction. ul.

Karolkowa 30, ridewarsaw.com

hair & beauty Bartek Janusz Salon The staff here takes a nononsense approach to cutting hair – it goes along with the minimalist chic interiors of the place. ul. Mokotowska 19 / ul.

Wilcza 72, bartekjanusz.pl

Dotyk SPA Probably the only place in Warsaw where you’ll get a facial yoga session. Going further east, treat yourself to Japanese, Polynesian or Indian massage. ul. Biały Kamień 3, tel.

22 898 7272, dotykspa.pl

Fiuu Fiuu Day Spa A wonderful quick fix salon that makes use of the latest Ericson products and other top brands. Regarded as one of the top ladies day spas in the country. ul. Mokotowska 48 Hair a Porter A staunch favorite among the ex-pat crowd, Hair a Porter offer the ultimate hair experience utilizing talented staff and top-quality products. ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent, level -1), hair-a-porter.pl

Nail & Beauty Bar A top spot for a classic manicure or pedicure – they also do lots of complicated things with gels and other hi-tech nail discoveries. ul.

Mokotowska 26

spas & salons

Piękna 15, quantumpiekna.pl

Ride Warsaw Group cycling classes overseen by a team of English-

Clochee Natural, organic cosmetic brand that’s been dubbed a ‘pro-health project for your

body and soul’. Using only certified ingredients, Clochee’s beauty products bring you closer to nature. Newlylaunched, their flagship store also houses a top-notch spa facilities. ul. Nowolipki 13, spa.

landscape chamber with a salt-covered floor. The other, meanwhile, comes clad in minerals with recliners hewn from heated tiles. ul.

clochee.com/spa

sport

ouch!

DEPILACJA WOSKIEM

Ouch!

Experts in waxing, Ouch! aim their offer at ‘busy women looking for express treatments with lasting effects who, at the same time, appreciate a sense of intimacy’. ul. Belwederska 32; ul. Bonifraterska 8, ouch.pl

PARDON MY FRENCH

manicure pedicure

Pardon My French Manicure and pedicure treatments with high quality lacquers and an awareness of global trends: if you need an endorsement, Paul McCartney visited when he was in Poland! ul. Belwederska 32; Bonifraterska 8; ul. Mokotowska 56, ul. Wilcza 3 pardonmyfrench.pl

Quantum Clinic Using first class, pioneering methods and technology, the Quantum Clinic surpasses the norms that Warsaw has become used to. ul. Piękna 15, quantumpiekna.pl

Retro Day Spa Royally indulgent interiors hark back to a different century, though the treatments are all hi-tech and include packages for pregnant women among the variety of beauty offers. Al. Ujazdowskie 18/11, retrodayspa.pl

Sante The dry and wet steam room left the Insider impressed, but not as much as the ‘mood rooms’ – imagine a lunar

Jagiellońska 55A, studiosante.pl

Frogs & Co. Warsaw’s only social rugby club welcomes all: supporters, players, young, old, men and women. The rugby is taken seriously, and so too is the social side. warsawfrogs.com Hangar 646 Hangar 646 touts 50 interlinked trampolines, a ping pong zone, ball pools and even a snowboard slide where visitors hurtle down a ramp before splashing down on an inflatable mattress. ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 646, hangar646.pl

Stacja Grawitacja Set over 3,200 sq/m of space, this indoor trampoline extravaganza sends visitors bouncing down ‘ninja obstacle courses’, sky slamming basketball hoops and jumping around engaged in dodgeball shenanigans. ul. Bohaterów Września 12, stacjagrawitacja.pl

W Pionie An 11 meter climbing wall founded by two mountaineers.

Considered one of the most advanced facilities of its kind in the country, English-speaking instructors can be rustled up on request. ul. Nowowiejska 37B, wpionie.pl

yoga & pilates Astanga Yoga Studio Established in 2005, this studio specializes in ashtanga and also offers physiotherapy, Hawaiian massage, reflexology and kalari chikitsa. ul.

Gałczyńskiego 4, astanga.pl warsawinsider.pl

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General Listings 5-Star Hotels Bellotto ul. Senatorska 13/15, tel. 22 829 6444, hotelbellotto.pl

between-us.eu

Express Relocations

ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, reservations@regentwarsaw.com, regent-warsaw.com

Boutique B&B

ul. Szyszkowa 35/37, expressrelocations.com

The Rialto Boutique Hotel

car rental

6306, warsawmarriott.com

Regent Warsaw Hotel

ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8700, rialto.pl

Bristol Hotel ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1000, hotelbristolwarsaw.pl

Avis

ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6100, sheraton.pl

Fredrick Chopin Airport, tel. 22 650 4872, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 575 6583, Reservations: tel. 801 120 010, avis.pl

Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888, radissonblu.com

Hertz Rent a Car

Hilton Warsaw ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555 / 800 44 11 482, hilton.com

Sofitel Warsaw Victoria

Indigo

ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8011, sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com

ul. Smolna 40, tel. 22 418 89 00, indigowarsaw.com

Westin

InterContinental

Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, westin.pl

ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, warsaw.intercontinental.com

Mamaison Le Régina Hotel ul. Kościelna 12, tel. 22 531 6000, mamaison.com

Marriott Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630

Euro Move International Movers ul. Kineskopowa 1, euromove.pl

Interdean International ul. Geodetów 172, Piaseczno, tel.

22 701 7171, interdean.com

Sheraton

H15 Boutique ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 553 8700, info@h15ab.com, h15ab.com

ul. Smolna 14/6, tel. 22 829 4800, bedandbreakfast.pl

Okęcie Airport, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 2896; mob. 691 411 130. ul. Nowogrodzka 27, tel. 22 621 1360.

relocation companies

B&B

AGS Warsaw

Between Us Bed & Breakfast

CorstJens Worldwide Movers

ul. Bracka 20, tel. 22 8285417 (from 10 a.m. to 11p.m.),

ul. Nowa 23, Stara Iwiczna, corstjens.com

ul. Julianowska 37, Piaseczno, agsmovers.com

Move One Relocations Also immigration assistance, fine art shipping, pet transport and consulting services. Check their website for more details. ul. Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 8160, moveonerelo.com

Relo Planet International, domestic and office removals, corporate and individual relocations, fine art shipping, storage, insurance, as well as a full range of assistance services (immigration, etc.). ul. Batalinou Platerówek 3, reloplanet.com

Get 12 issues for the price of 6 (60 zł)

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Traveling over the course of approximately 1,5 hour, a double-decker bus will take you past many beautiful and interesting places of Warsaw, such as its interesting districts, palaces and churches, monuments and museums, parks and historical cemeteries, as well as the Jewish historical sites.

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Excellent Hop on Hop off and one trip service operates every day all year round.

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+48 500 033 414

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Warsaw Guide

THE ESSENTIALS...

Cut through the chaff and time manage your visit as effectively as possible.

COMMUNISM

A full tour of Stalin’s Palace of Culture is a must: the basements are wild and the viewing terrace unimpeachable. Check the more ambient side to Communism in the Neon Museum and then visit The Museum of Life Under Communism: it’s tiny, but humorous, eccentric and highly informative. While you’re there, squeeze into a knackered militia wagon and take one of their commie-themed tours. Equally weird, check out a former nuclear bunker by visiting the once top secret Obiekt Alfa (obiektalfa.pl).

MODERN WARSAW MUSEUM OF MODERN ART

THE OLD…

The Old Town, raised from the rubble after WWII, is symbolic of this ‘phoenix city’, and fully deserving of its UNESCO listed status. In the square, the Museum of Warsaw is a great primer to the city, while the Royal Castle is a maze of fancy chambers and important paintings by the likes of Rembrandt and Canaletto. To soak in the extravagances of Poland’s imperial years, then Łazienki Park is essential, as is a visit to the Wilanów Palace: frequently termed as being ‘the Polish Versailles’, the gardens are as unmissable as the former royal chambers.

WWII

Memories of WWII still hang heavy.

Learn about the 1944 Warsaw Uprising at The Rising Museum: it’s deservedly rated as among the most important cultural institutions in the country.

The Old Town’s ‘Heritage Centre’

documents the destruction of the city, while three separate museums, Pawiak, Szucha and Katyń, cover equally somber chapters in Poland’s dark history.

JEWISH WARSAW

Though largely flattened, the former Jewish Ghetto contains numerous memorials, among them the Umschlagplatz installation that commemorates the deportations to Treblinka. The one synagogue that survived (Twarda 6) is the center of local Jewish life, while the innovative Polin covers all aspects of this nation’s complex and often fraught Jewish history. Finally, visit the often unsung Jewish Historical Institute to view their new permanent exhibition: titled ‘What We Were Unable To Shout Out To The World’, it presents rediscovered documents relating to life in the Ghetto.

Wonder amid romping kids and whirring machines in the Copernicus Science Centre, and after take a walk down the riverfront to the Museum of Modern Art. Across the water, the state-of-the-art National Stadium conducts regular tours and will thrill stadium nerds and football fans alike.

ART

Serious art lovers flock to the National Museum for its determined presentation of art through the ages. The Zachęta, the Modern Art Museum and CSW are more alternative with captivating exhibitions that thrill non-conformists. That said, some of the city’s best art is found on its walls: Praga and Muranów are particularly known for their giant wall murals.

PEOPLE

The watchful shadow of Chopin, the city’s favorite son, looms large across Warsaw: the museum dedicated to his memory amazes by the breadth of its scope. Now reopened following a thorough refit, the Marie Curie Museum in New Town does a splendid job of remembering the world’s most famous female science boffin. warsawinsider.pl

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Insider Finds

HOUSE OF HOPE

Thoroughly furnished and beautifully lit, a miniature house has been enchanting all who visit the Dollhouse Museum…

B

uilt in England in the years immediately after WWII, this seven-room wooden doll’s house was purchased at a London auction in 2010 by Aneta Popiel-Machnicka – the founder of the Belle Époque Foundation, and the director of Warsaw’s Dollhouse Museum. “When they heard it was on its way to Poland,” she says, “I was contacted by the house’s previous owner who told me it was designed – and possibly built – by her grandfather!”

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Fleeing capture by the Germans, Zygmunt Pietrasiewicz arrived in Britain in 1940 where he joined the 304 Polish Bomber Squadron based at RAF Chivenor. Twice awarded the Cross of Valor, the dashing pilot stayed on in England after the war due to the deteriorating political situation in his native Poland. Settling in the Nottingham area, it was there that he met his wife-to-be, Betty Hope. Built in the early years of their marriage,

the dollhouse – known as Miss Hope’s House – was modeled on a typical English residence. Intricately detailed and accessed from all four sides, its restoration took craftsmen six years of meticulous work. Located in the very heart of the permanent exhibition, the results leave a striking impression on all who view it.

Dollhouse Museum Pl. Defilad 1, muzeumdomkow.pl