Warsaw Insider December 2017 #256

Christmas in Warsaw Wilanów’s Temple Food & Drink Trends Poland’s Xmas Markets

Warsaw The Capital’s Original City Magazine Since 1996

DECEMBER 2017

256 12/2017

INDEKS 334901 ISSN:1643-1723

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ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER ALEXANDRE BIRMAN ANYA HINDMARCH AQUAZZURA BALMAIN BUSCEMI CASADEI CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN ELIE SAAB FRANCESCO RUSSO GIANVITO ROSSI HERVE LEGER ISABEL MARANT KENZO KOTUR LORO PIANA MAISON MICHEL MANOLO BLAHNIK ONETEASPOON SELF – PORTRAIT TOD’S TORY BURCH VICTORIA BECKHAM YVES SALOMON

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editorial INFRONT

Editor-in-chief Alex Webber

8 Take a Number 10 News 12 Interview:

insider@warsawinsider.pl Art Director Kevin Demaria insider@warsawinsider.pl

Michał Olszewski

Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com

FEATURES

Contributors: Stuart Dowell Maria Mileńko Michał Miszkurka Ed Wight

16 Christmas in

Warsaw 22 Travel: Christmas Markets 22 Temple of Divine Providence

Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com Business Development Manager A. Julita Pryzmont jpryzmont@valkea.com

PARTNER SPOTLIGHT

29 The latest marketplace news from the Warsaw Insider’s friends and advertisers

EAT!

22 Trends:

Top 10 of 2017 37 Review: Otto Pompieri 38 Review: Kafe Zielony Niedźwiedź

W

hat a contrast. If November is all about doom, death and dullness then December is when Warsaw wakes temporarily from its torpor to crack a brief, bright smile. Enjoy it while you can, for the next time you’ll see the city this happy is when winter clocks off and spring checks in – and God knows when that might be. With the town wholly consumed by Christmas, the year’s closing chapter isn’t a bad time to be here. Not bad at all. For this reason we’ve gone overboard on the festivities and brought you all you need to know about Crimbo in Warsaw – from the dos and don’ts to the drinks and markets: and for the grinches who just want to get out, then do as our minions have done and explore the rest of Poland.

Enjoy the holidays and see ya’ next year!

DRINK!

85 Review: Worek

Kości 86 Christmas Roundup

ey Account Manager K Agata Sicińska asicinska@valkea.com ey Account Manager K Joanna Łysik jlysik@valkea.com Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com Subscription 12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland.

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91 Review: Łukasz

Jemioł 92 Gift Ideas 94 Guide Guide 96 Calendar 116 Guide: Essentials 110 Map 112 Insider Finds

on the cover This issue our cover artist gives his snow globe a shake to bring you his vision of the Royal Route at Christmas.

(Illustration by Michał Miszkurka)

Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2017

VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies.

All information ©2017 Warsaw Insider.

PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT

Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

DO!

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DECEMBER 2017

CASADEI CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN MEN FAY GIANVITO ROSSI MEN KENZO MONCLER ONE TEASPOON RALPH LAUREN TOD’S TORY BURCH VALENTINO VICTORIA BECKHAM BURBERRY CHILDREN DSQUARED2 KIDS KENZO KIDS MONCLER KIDS

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 tel.: +48 226221416, www.PlacTrzechKrzyzy.com

by Wilamowski W W W. C H L O D N A 1 5 . P L RECEPCJA@CHLODNA15.PL TEL. 730 737 644

CHŁODNA 15 BY WILAMOWSKI INVITES DINERS T O E N J OY A S O P H I S T I CAT E D C H R I S T M A S M E N U O F F R E N C H TA S T E S W I T H A W I N T E R T O U C H

BANJALUKA 2/4 Szkolna, Warsaw +48228281060 banjaluka.pl Facebook.com/BANJALUKA.WWA Instagram: @banjaluka_warszawa

MOMU 9/11 Wierzbowa, Warsaw +48506100001 momu.pl Facebook.com/MOMU Instagram: @momu_pieczemy_dymem

If you haven’t heard about us yet, you should know that we have been on the Warsaw gastronomy map for over 13 years. In the meantime, we moved from Mokotow to the Centre of Warsaw. We are inspired by colourful, diversified but still undiscovered Balkans. Gourmet kitchen open late into the evening, live music every day, Sunday animations are the reasons for which our guests appreciate us the most.

If, however, you already know us, then you probably tried the lamb chops by our chef Olaf Michalczyk who says with a smell on his face: “I put my lamb chops, against all other cutlets in this city”. It is also hard not to know Mrs. Kate’s apple pie and Mrs. Anna’s cheesecake which are smashing the system. Regional rakija, Croatian and Slovenian wines and beer from Bosnia probably also sound familiar to you. If that’s the case, we are sure we will see each other again very soon.

MOMU specializes in roasted food, utilizing traditional cooking techniques to create a top-quality menu. The kitchen’s wood fire oven enhances the flavour of MOMU’s meat, fish, vegetables, fruit and cheese, with no preservatives or enhancers.

The restaurant takes pride in its regional menu, using only the best ingredients from Polish suppliers.

Alongside the kitchen you’ll also find a fully stocked bar, with a variety of wine, beer and whisky specially designed to accompany your meal. MOMU is also home to a unique atmosphere, with daily performances from local musicians.

AïOLI inspired by Gdańsk 6 Partyzantów, Gdańsk aioliinspiredbygdansk.pl Facebook.com/AIOLIxGDANSK Instagram: @aiolixgdansk

AIOLI Cantine Bar Cafe Deli 18 Świętokrzyska, Warsaw +48226572126 aioli-cantine.com Facebook.com/ AIOLICantineSwietokrzyska Instagram: @aioli_swietokrzyska

Not a restaurant, but a city cantine that offers an adventure with a Mediterranean twist in fast food gourmet. AïOLI inspired by Gdańsk is the only gastronomic concept combining a cantina, tattoo studio and barber shop - all in one place at 6 Partyzant street.

AïOLI is a modern urban canteen bustling from the early hours to the last guest. The menu features breakfast, snacks, salads, sandwiches, pastas, burgers and pizzas. The chefs regularly surprise with seasonal, spontaneous cuisine. Every night DJs play for guests, making the place vibrant with life like all popular European city canteens. This is the place where the Mediterranean kitchen merges with lifestyle.

Thank you for being with us - you come to a place which you yourself create!

AïOLI is a bar, café and deli, and was created with three factors in mind: a passion for good-quality food, the joy of a Southern style of living and a love of beautiful interiors. The owners decided to combine these ideas, concentrating on achieving great quality through simple ingredients. Now one of the stars of the Warsaw gastronomic scene, it is known for its creative Italian cuisine with American influences, its industrial interior, and music from Warsaw’s best DJs – not to mention its signature AïOLI, a staple of southern European cooking. Our tip: try the Taleggio pizza.

number take a

4.5 million Lights For Xmas!

SHUTTERSTOCK

Let the Christmas countdown begin! December 2nd has been earmarked as the day Warsaw flicks the switch on its festive lights, and while no specific hour had been officially confirmed at press time, it’s widely believed that 5 p.m. will be the magic moment that the streets will turn sparkly. Overall, approximately 4.5 million energy efficient, eco-friendly LED bulbs will illuminate the town, along with 1,300 decorative elements that will include light curtains, overhangs, icicles and free-standing decorations. Costing the city zł. 6.5 million, over 60 lorries have been used to transport the illuminations to the capital, with a team of 50 people working diligently through November to ensure Poland’s biggest light show is ready on time. Once more, the Christmas tree on Pl. Zamkowy will be the focal point, though in total the decorations are expected to cover around 20 kilometers of the city.

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Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2017

Mariusz Palarczykowi’s mission has been to showcase the traditional flavor of Polish pastries to an audience of both foreigners and locals. This he has done using homemade recipes with each item kneaded, molded and decorated by hand. Our confectionery is also made in house, using only fresh cheese and homemade preserves.

Treated as works of art, our cakes and pastries are one-of-a-kind.

O P E N I N G T I M E S : M o n d a y - S u n d a y 1 0 : 0 0 - 2 0 : 0 0 P u Ĺ‚ a w s k a 1 0 4 , Wa r s a w ( + 4 8 ) 2 2 8 4 4 4 4 4 3 i n f o @ c u k i e r n i a s t a r y d o m . p l w w w. c u k i e r n i a s t a r y d o m . p l

News Briefs

Figures issued by the State Treasury have revealed that over 20,000 Poles declare an annual income of over one million złotys. Of this number, 3,600 were found living in Warsaw with the districts of Ursynów and Mokotów counting the most millionaires. According to the data, the capital’s highest earning individual declared yearly earnings in excess of zł.

200 million. The release of these statistics coincides with the news that national football hero Robert Lewandowski has finally picked up the keys for his Złota 44 penthouse. Averaging approximately zł.

30,00 per sq/m, the prestigious apartment block is reputedly the country’s most expensive residential development.

SQUARING UP

The ruling PiS party have issued a decree that has removed Pl. Piłsudskiego from City Hall’s control and instead placed it directly under their authority. While the square will remain open to the public, the move has infuriated many and has widened the existing division between the Mayor’s office and PiS. Regarded as one of the most culturally and politically significant squares in the country, several analysts have interpreted the incident as a provocative power ploy aimed at eroding City Hall’s influence.

THE MEMORY LIVES ON...

The last surviving section of the wall that once ringed the Jewish Ghetto is to undergo an extensive program of conservation. Though a final project has yet to be selected, the Mayor of Wola has already stated that the plans will include the addition of a ‘historical zone’, assorted clean-up work, extra information boards and easier access for the public.

As things stand, those who visit must first enter through a barred gate at Złota 62 before negotiating a warren of courtyard pathways to reach the wall. Further, the Culture Minister has declared his intention to create a Museum of the Warsaw Ghetto in collaboration with the Jewish Historical Institute.

Though a timeline has yet to be specified, the location has already been selected: a former Jewish children’s hospital on ul. Śliska.

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Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2017

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT, KEVIN DEMARIA, PRESS MATERIAL, SHUTTERSTOCK

THE MILLIONAIRE’S CLUB

Interview tion which doesn’t help in dispersing smog. That’s obviously something out of our control, but as we can’t transplant Warsaw to another part of the world we have to do our best to create a long-term strategy to combat pollution.

City Speak

As Deputy Mayor of Warsaw Michał Olszewski has been at the forefront of the city’s radical reinvention as one of Central Europe’s major power players. This issue he speaks about the highs and lows of his term in office...

WI: Winter means smog season: is this a battle that the city is doomed to lose?

MO: The world’s climate is changing and while the amount of pollution we’re actually producing is stable, the weather conditions aren’t – the situation last January was very unusual with the city experiencing a combination of weather factors that it hadn’t seen for a decade. Further, the city’s geographical position means we will always have a problem with air circula-

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Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2017

What does such a strategy involve?

The process of decreasing pollution began in 2007, and if you look at the latest data you’ll see that pollution levels have actually halved since 2006. To achieve this we’ve already completed several actions, one of which was phasing out old-fashioned public transport vehicles and replacing them with lowemission ones. However, only 8% of air pollution is attributed to the exhaust of vehicles, so we’ve also been active in upgrading domestic heating systems and swapping coal-dependent systems to ones which run on gas.

For properties out of our control, we’ve launched an incentive scheme to encourage landlords to make such changes. Even so, we realized that we need to be more progressive, which is why in 2014 we redeveloped our strategy.

What role can the public play in reducing smog?

Paradoxically, I think January’s smog crisis really helped in increasing the public’s consciousness.

It’s not just the city that needs to work on cutting pollution, the people have to do their bit as well: we need to change our daily habits.

Though you’ve mentioned that vehicles cause only

a part of the city’s air pollution, cars, and Warsaw’s over-reliance on them, have become an increasingly hot topic...

This is something we’ve acted on at City Hall, firstly, by introducing more zoning laws in Old and New Town and areas around The Royal Route, and secondly, by transforming our public spaces and ‘hiding cars’ via the introduction of underground car parks.

But in the short term it’s really hard to set goals – congestion is something that even New York’s Mayor Bloomberg failed to beat because he met such fierce resistance. Learning from that, you can’t force solutions on people. As a society we are way too attached to our cars; in 10, 15 or 20 years there’ll hopefully be a different debate, but right now we’re simply focused on protecting the downtown area. In the last decade the number of people using public transport has increased by 20%, whilst traffic congestion in the center has been cut by 10%. These are things people don’t necessarily notice, but they’re things we’re constantly working on improving.

The river, and its regeneration, is regarded as one of the city’s finest achievements this century. How did it all come about?

I remember in my first few months in office going down there and having to slash through the undergrowth with a jungle knife just to reach the river bank.

We had three goals. First, to safeguard nature and repair the damage that had been done. Initially, there were protests and misunderstandings relating to our clear-up, but we were careful to cooperate closely >>>

Interview

As we can’t transplant Warsaw to another part of the world, we have to do our best to create a long-term strategy to combat pollution with biologists and experts.

The problem was that for too long nothing had been done. In a city, nature isn’t capable of defending itself so we had to make actively make changes to protect it.

Secondly, there was a problem with security. I don’t just mean from a personal sense, but also a natural one. The river is at risk of flooding, so what structures did exist were ugly and temporary – after all, you can’t expect people to look after something that might be washed away. One of the things we did was introduce pavilions that could float in the event of a flood. Finally, we focused on the leisure aspect. Looking at it all right now I’d say what we’ve got is European class, however, I’m certain we’re close to soon having something that is a truly world class product.

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The city looks better than anyone could have imagined at the start of the millennium, but it’s come at a cost. Gentrification has become a massive issue...

But this isn’t something you can halt, it’s an entirely natural process. What we can do, as a city authority, is decrease the social cost by keeping our housing assets and maintaining a balance.

However, gentrification isn’t something we should be afraid of; it has minuses but there are also many pluses. I firmly believe that a city should not regulate what shops appear on which street, and I’m glad that these market trends fall outside of our sphere of influence. Besides, the appearance of new services increases our quality of life.

In some cases, though, it seems like the real estate

Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2017

developers have spun out of control and are transforming the city to suit their own needs and vision.

But looking at it from a different perspective, the real estate developers will always complain that they don’t have enough power!

To be honest, I would far prefer the city to have more influence when it comes to architectural planning, but we are at least seeing more and more developers understanding that dialogue and cooperation is ultimately beneficial for everyone.

What is your nightmare scenario for the future?

Warsaw is more than just the country’s capital, it’s the heart. As such, it’s closely attached to the fortunes of the rest of the nation, so if something bad happens to Poland, then Warsaw

In international terms, where do you think Warsaw currently stands, and where will it be in the long-term?

Ten years back we were Cinderella – an undiscovered and unappreciated beauty living in the shadow of Prague and Budapest.

Now, after a decade of continual growth, we’ve become the regional leader.

I’m confident about the future, and that doesn’t just come from looking at indexes, but speaking to people. Ten years ago I got the impression that residents were almost ashamed of this city – that they were always comparing it unfavorably to other towns abroad: that just doesn’t happen anymore.

We’ve spent ten billion euros in the last ten years on improving this town, and Warsaw is now ready to become the most important city in Central & Eastern Europe. I’m especially excited about the development of the downtown area, and I think that when that’s finally finished in ten to fifteen years time we can at last say that the city has been completed following the communist years.

Of course, I will never be totally happy: there’s just too many things that need to be done. The city is a living organism, and anything can happen at any given moment. While I do look at the long term, my day-today job is about short-term details – fixing a broken tram line or dealing with a plane on Pl. Defilad!

SHUTTERSTOCK

is automatically effected.

My fear, therefore, would be to see Poland going in a negative direction as I think Warsaw would follow for reasons outside of its control.

CHRISTMAS IN WARSAW

A Very Warsaw Christmas With the Christmas countdown in full-swing, we bring the you the season’s dos, don’ts, must-haves and must-visits...

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Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2017

Of all of the traditions associated *with Christmas in Poland, few rival the

nation’s demented fixation with Home Alone (or, to give it its Polish title, Kevin W Samu Domu). Such is the country’s sentimental attachment to the film, when Polsat pulled it from their TV listings in 2010 their action was met with uproar: “Polsat have killed Christmas,” screamed one newspaper.

With protests sweeping the web, the TV company quickly reinstalled it to feature in their schedule. They’ll never make the same mistake again...

SHUTTERSTOCK

W HAT TURKEY IS TO THE BRITS, carp is to the Poles. A central part of the traditional Christmas Eve dinner, you’ll still find many households persisting in keeping this ugly looking monster swimming in the bathtub in the days leading up to wigilia – if you’re wondering, that’s not to scare the kids but to filter out the mud. While many restaurants have tried to rehabilitate the reputation of this bony bottom-feeder – with varying degrees of success – it’s mere mention is still enough to strike terror into the majority of expats.

What’s Christmas without a pair of *socks * Not flying anywhere this winter? finding their way under your tree. Then do the next best thing and jump But forget the Happy Socks every gent is donning as a mark of their wacky personality, instead, head to Kabak (Hoża 51) to stock up on socks carrying a Warsaw motif: the mermaid, Palace of Culture, etc.

* Help others, why don’t you? There’s numerous charitable initiatives expats can tag along to, though few have gained as much traction as the weekly Warsaw Seva. Organized by the city’s Indian community, join them and other international volunteers outside the Palace of Culture (by Kinoteka) each Sunday at 4 p.m. as they dish out food and clothes to the town’s poor and needy.

Find them on facebook at: Volunteers to Feed the Unfortunate People.

inside the state-of-the-art flight simulator at the acclaimed Warsaw Gift Shop (warsawgiftshop.com). On landing safely, then don’t forget to browse the merchandise in-store: highlights include Warsaw On Air, a thrilling album containing the aerial photographs of Maciej Margas – even Kate & Wills have a copy on their royal bookshelf!

Get yer’ skates on! Once more the *National Stadium (zimowynarodowy.pl) will transform itself into a winter wonderland featuring 5,000 sq/m of ice, and extras such as an ice hill, nighttime ‘ice discos’ and a ‘polar bar’ for postskating chill out. Alternatively, skate in the twinkling shadow of the Warsaw Spire at Pl. Europejski, or follow the traditionalists and check the rink in the center of the Old Town’s Rynek. Ringed by wooden cabins dispensing sausages and mulled wine, it’s the most enchanting experience of the lot.

the breakfast tray and relive *theHijack daredevil thrills of childhood! The

moment the snow settles, thousands of Varsovians head to the hills to bomb down them on improvised sleds.

Popular destinations to engage in such action include Morskie Oko and Królikarnia in Mokotów, Podzamcze by the fountain park close to Old Town and Wola’s Park Sowiński and Moczydło.

Set in the prim, pretty gardens of *Wilanów Palace, the Royal Garden

of Light offers spellbound families the chance to crunch across the frost through a series of outdoor attractions cascading with 300,000 pulsating, colored diodes. Accompanied by the sounds of classical music, visitors walk through different thematic areas

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CHRISTMAS IN WARSAW that riff on surreal themes that leave everyone bewitched: think of it as a family-friendly dose of LSD. Don’t panic! If you can’t find a Christ*mas tree at the beginning of the month then that’s because the Poles leave it till about the 12th of the month to purchase their choinka. From thereon, expect to find them on sale on random street corners. Top class decorations can be found in the design stores of Mokotowska, though for something with more local flavor check out the seasonal fairs that are occurring throughout the month: in particular, Dom Towarowy Bracia Jabłkowscy on Bracka 25 usually has cutesy, quality offerings aimed at all budgets.

So they’re as Christmassy as a *punch in the throat, but sometimes

it’s the practical presents that are the best. With smog season upon us, hit up Urban Vibe (urbanvibe.pl) for a top notch mask that looks like something out of Mad Max. Before you know it, you’ll be breathing Alpine fresh air.

the planet found itself glued to *theBefore Playstation, friends and family spent

the Xmas period hunched over board games. But forget the snoozy, bored games of old, and instead head down to the hip Solec 44 resto-bar (solec. waw.pl) to engage in bonkers table-top games over a pint of something crafty.

For home, look for Polish-designed productions such as 1944: Race to the Rhine or Kolejka (a game that challenges players to beat Communist queues!). Of course, there’s also the Warsaw edition of Monopoly. Find them, and more, in stores such as EMPiK.

Become the next Willy Wonka and *enroll yourself on a chocolate-making

course at Manufaktura Czekolady (manufakturaczekolady.pl). Workshops here are fun, tasty and expertly organized with kids and adults in mind.

Plying their way around the cobbled *streets of the historic center, the clip

clop of horse-drawn carriages is one of the defining sounds of Christmas in Old Town. The more adventurous, however, should use Google to go on a horse-drawn sleigh ride around the forests of Kampinos (search: kulig).

Usually, the experience will conclude with a thermos flask of wine and sausages cooked over an open-air fire.

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Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2017

MARKET KNOWLEDGE

Get into the Christmas spirit by heading forth to one of Warsaw’s winter markets...

OLD TOWN With over 60 separate stalls, this one’s the biggie: coiling around ul. Podwale, find dozens of dinky timber chalets specializing in seasonal clutter: hand-carved cats, sinister marionettes, daft woolly hats and sheepskin attire that’s fit for a shepherd. For the full immersion, don’t leave without a bag of gingerbread and a plastic cup sloshing with piping hot wine. Open till Jan 7th.

COPERNICUS STATUE A little more unique than

the standard fairs, here you’ll have the chance to decorate gingerbread cookies and create your own customized Warsawthemed Christmas cards.

Open Dec 2-3, Dec 9-10, Dec 16-17.

HALA KOSZYKI Find wooden stalls galore in the courtyard bit outside, but don’t forget about the basement level either.

That’s where to head to stock up on decorations and suchlike – they’ve also promised weekend worships that involve activities such as painting

glass baubles. From Dec 4th to Dec 23rd.

Tarasy will be getting into the whole Xmas jig by unveiling 28 cabins selling PL. NARUTOWICZA you know what: Santa Although no official attrac- hats, slippers, socks and tions have been revealed, whatnot. From Dec 1st to it’s safe to assume that Dec 23rd. the wooden cabins that will spring up on Pl. NaZOO MARKET rutowicza will be dealing For something a bit more out all the familiar Xmas hipster than the others, trinkets: folksy art and the Zoo Market (opposite craftwork along with wine ‘bear island’ in Praga) and regional produce. promises a small fleet of From Dec 9th to Dec 23rd. food trucks, as well as a network of stalls selling ZŁOTE TARASY farmers’ produce and Taking its cue from the locally made ceramics, traditional German-style jewelry, artwork, etc. From Christmas fairs, Złote Dec 15th to Dec 23rd.

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CHRISTMAS IN WARSAW

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Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2017

Lights, Camera, Action!

Lining 20 kilometers of roadway, Warsaw’s collection of Christmas lights has come to be recognized as one of Europe’s largest seasonal light extravaganzas – were every single light chain laid end-to-end, it’s estimated they’d stretch out in excess of 680 kilometers. Though appearing all around town, the most arresting display will run the length of The Royal Route: from the mouth of Pl. Zamkowy all the way down to Wilanów Palace.

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TRAVEL CHRISTMAS AROUND POLAND

Santa On Tour!

Mittens ready, toothbrush packed... With town squares temporarily transformed into glimmery Christmas villages, there’s little better time to chalk off Poland’s big cities.

GDAŃSK

Often likened to a condensed version of Amsterdam, Gdańsk’s old town is heaped with steep, gabled townhouses and fortress-like churches; it’s an aesthetic profile that makes it one of the best unsung secrets of Northern Europe.

STAY Gdańsk has a high headcount of quality hotels: among these, the Hilton looks straight down the Motława River and sparkles with cool. Their trump card is a fifth-floor pool with enthralling views.

Puro, in a restored granary, is a face-off between high-tech and industrial history.

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Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2017

The Craft Beer Hotel, meanwhile, marks a crossover point between millennial cool and traditional luxury – the on-site brewery is top notch.

EAT Opened in 1918, Kubicki has remodeled itself as an on-edge restaurant serving modern Polish cuisine inside tasteful interiors that keep the venue’s heritage in mind. On the other end of the scale: Bar Pod Rybą, a budget eatery decorated with flea market knick-knacks that recall the times of Old Danzig. The star here is a cast iron oven that knocks out the best jacket spuds that we’ve ever tasted!

SEE Taking in Gdańsk’s sights takes days, but those in a rush should tick off the fearsome St. Mary’s Cathedral, the European Solidarity Center and the WWII museum: it’s simply staggering in scope. And don’t forget to browse the amber stores of

Mariacka, the town’s most scenic street.

DRINK Though the beer hall buzz of Brovarnia is hard to top, topped it is by the Cathead Multitap: find a revolving roster of 28 beers on tap and pump inside a noisy space that rings with atmosphere. For a glass of something fancy, then beeline to Chleb i Wino.

DON’T MISS In fairness, you’ll only miss it if you’ve got a bag over your head. Peaking at a height of 50-meters, the ferris wheel on Granary Island offers glittery views of the riverfront below.

THE XMAS MARKET Held on Targ Węglowy, scheduled attractions include a carousel, a gazebo laced with mistletoe, an eight-meter tall Christmas crib and an ‘ice hill’ running a length of 35-meters.

POZNAŃ

Lined with handsome merchants’ houses, the historic core is a gem to behold. Beyond that, a range of new wave museums, artsy installations, bars and restaurants have swept the town, reflecting its transition into a dynamic conurbation.

STAY The city’s status as a place of business means there’s no shortage of universal chain hotels specializing in cheerless, robotic comfort. Instead, check into Brovaria: touting a high three star standard, pluses include a ground floor brewery and views overlooking the Rynek. Further afield, City Park Residence is a contemporary ‘design hotel’ inside a swish red brick complex that was formerly a barracks.

EAT Though the Old Town is honeycombed with eateries, the best deals are found further afield: features of The Time

include sophisticated cuisine, a wine list built by Robert Mielyżyński, a cigar den and whisky bar. More informal, the upcoming district of Śródka has several smart cafe / bistros with strong artsy airs.

SEE Porta Poznania is an ultra-modern exhibition that tells the story of the nearby Cathedral Island, while the Makieta Dawnego Posnania is a brill scale-model depicting the city in its earlier form.

Always a laugh, the Croissant Museum is a hands-on cooking demonstration featuring quick-witted commentary from a pair of sword-wielding jokers.

DRINK Żydowska street has a particularly strong line-up of bars, with the nearby Ministerstwo Browaru commonly regarded as the city’s beery HQ. More upmarket, Ułan Browar in City Park attracts a smooth, affluent crowd.

DON’T MISS Plumped center stage of the Rynek, the renaissance town hall attracts a crowd each day at noon. They’re there to see a pair of mechanized goats emerge from the clock tower before butting heads.

Centuries old, the tradition commemorates two animals that escaped the cooking cauldron and ended up stuck on top of the hall.

THE XMAS MARKET Aside from the expected wooden cabins dealing gingerbread and wine, the Rynek also presents what is reputedly the largest collection of ice sculptures in Europe. warsawinsider.pl

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TRAVEL CHRISTMAS AROUND POLAND

WROCŁAW

Entwined within a tangle of ribboning rivers, Wrocław is a place of soaring spires and tight, cobbled alleys. Known by some as ‘the city of a hundred bridges’, this stunning town enchants all who visit.

STAY The historic Monopol, a swank ensemble of marble, walnut and modern trimmings, is the grande dame of Wrocław hotels.

Elsewhere, the Grape is a blueprint for boutique residences everywhere with 13 wine-themed rooms inside a gabled villa with pointy towers – ideal for eloping couples.

EAT Jadka reinterprets Old Polish cuisine by mixing contemporary methods with handpicked regional produce – welltraveled foodies cite it as one of the Top 5 restaurants in PL. Less formal, Konspira

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serves traditional food inside an interior festooned with Cold War mementos. For ethnic zap, pow and vegan sizzle then head to Baszta, a Thai restaurant found inside a haunted medieval tower.

SEE A spate of modern attractions have cropped up, among them the Centrum Historii Zajezdnia, which explores the story of post-war Wrocław, the stunning Afrykarium aquarium, and the high-tech Hydropolis water museum. Finally, walk across the photogenic Tumski Bridge to reach the Cathedral of St. John: the view from the top is magic.

DRINK The craft beer scene is cresting and while many rarely look beyond the Old Town’s copious choice (e.g. Kontynuacja), the out-of-center Stu Mostów is a lively, award-winning brewery that shouldn’t be missed for a true taste of Wrocław.

For something entirely more cerebral, join the pseudo intellectuals that gather in the dimly-lit bars and cafes of ul.

Włodkowica.

DON’T MISS Since 2005 over 400 gnomes have appeared on the streets of Old Town like an irritating rash. Find out why and where at probably the only gnome information point in the world: krasnale.pl

THE XMAS MARKET The Old Town’s Christmas Market is one of Poland’s top seasonal draws. Things to watch for include carol concerts, a ‘house of dwarves’ and an elf parade.

KRAKÓW

Tourist trap? You bet!

Even so, Kraków’s rise to the top table of European weekend breaks has not been without reason. Come Christmas, it’s hard to resist the spell of her sprawling Old Town.

STAY Numbered in the gazillions, the choice of hotels is bewildering. Thrusting art & culture to the fore, the Indigo expresses itself in a loud burst of eclectic luxury. With many of Kraków’s hotels fixated on posh airs and graces, go instead for the chic and stylish

Stradonia Serviced Apartments.

EAT The city is a minefield specially rigged to obliterate the wallets of tourists. Avoid Old Town, instead head outwards to the former Jewish district, Kazimierz. Here you’ll find no shortage of neo-hipster inspired spots such as Alchemia Od Kuchni, Zazie Bistro and Zenit Miodowa.

Atavistic urges can be sated at Ed Red steakhouse.

SEE Don’t miss out on the Schindler Factory, a museum that comprehensively explores the Oskar Schindler story and Kraków’s wartime occupation. In the center, the Rynek Underground exhibition under the square makes generous use of holograms and hi-tech gizmos to lay bare both the timeline of the square and the city.

DRINK An unmarked speakeasy, Mercy Brown is one the nation’s top cocktail bars, and all the better for its shadowy air of decadent glam. For all that, Kazimierz is King: head there to explore divey, candlelit bars like Singer and Alchemia.

Resistant to gentrification, they’re a nostalgic snapshot of yesteryear.

DON’T MISS Set behind the Schindler Factory, the MOCAK gallery has emerged as one of Poland’s top contemporary art spaces.

It’s bonkers enough to hold even the attention of art-phobes.

THE XMAS MARKET Without fail, December 7th is when you want to visit: that’s when the market will host the 75th installment of its annual Christmas crib competition – these contraptions are staggering in their intricacy. warsawinsider.pl

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ARCHITECTURE TEMPLE OF DIVINE PROVIDENCE

TEMPLE OF DOOM? Fiercely detested by architecture buffs, could Wilanów’s landmark temple yet become one of Poland’s defining icons? BY STUART DOWELL

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OST OF THE OPINIONS about the Temple of Divine Providence in Wilanów, which opened officially on November 11th last year, are negative: it’s a huge lemon squeezer; Poland’s first spaceship; a missile silo; or it looks like something from Kazakhstan. It even won the Makabryła anti-prize for the worst building of 2016. The project has also been heavily criticized for its cost, which has ballooned to an estimated 220 million złotys, a large chunk of which came from the taxpayer... and it’s not even finished.

If so many people think the same, they must be right, surely? Perhaps not. In fact there are reasons why the temple could even be hailed as wonder of sacral architecture and why it may even become an icon of Warsaw in the future.

The first fascinating thing about the temple is the contrast between its ultra-modern design and its roots that go back over 220 years to the signing of the May 3rd Constitution in 1791, when the Great Sejm voted to build a temple offering thanks to God’s providence for granting citizens’ rights that were enshrined in the short-lived constitution.

The temple was originally to be built where Warsaw University has its botanical garden next to Łazienki Park. Work started, remnants of which can still be seen, but the partitioning of Poland halted progress and the plans resurfaced only when Poland regained its independence in 1918. This time, a design that took its inspiration from French Gothic cathedrals and American skyscrapers was to be erected on Pole Mokotowskie.

The Second World War and the years of socialism meant that the Church had to wait until 1989 to dust off plans for its thanksgiving project.

Of all the jibes, it is the lemon squeezer one that seems to have stuck. Yet, domes have been part of architecture since early Mesopotamia and part of Christian sacral architecture since the very start of church building. It seems unfair to ridicule the temple for having one. The slim, shapely, copper dome is interesting because of its open top. What does it symbolize? A direct connection between the heavens and the mortals below? Or does its Baroque-style broken nature suggest human imperfection and God’s forgiveness? Thirty tonnes of copper were used to cover the dome, donated by Poland’s richest company KGHM, and the material comes with a 700-year life-span. The current earthy bronze color will change slowly to become a rich, mossy green.

The church also pleases the eye, maintaining the classical proportional division into three horizontal levels so beloved by the Greeks and Romans. The blocky squareness of the corpus symbolises Earth, while the dome represents perfection, eternity and the heavens – a concept that goes back to Ancient Persia. The whole structure rests safely on the solid foundation of the Pantheon of Deserved Poles, who breathe their collective wisdom to the worshipers above.

Approaching the temple, we are confronted by its monumental cube construction; however, the impression upon entering is totally different. We’re in a massive

circular nave, a huge airy, open space that extends right up to the opening at the top. It feels like the dome visible from the outside is actually the whole church.

The sense of levitation and lightness is enhanced by a 25-meter high alter piece that curves in a gentle ‘s’ shape and a huge cross with the figure of Jesus that floats above the chancel. A quarter of a hectare of American marble covers the floor, underneath which are 19 km of heating pipes, keeping worshipers nice and toasty in the winter.

The circular nave creates a wonderful sense of harmony and inclusion. The 26 pillars form a kind of upturned chalice and mark out the central nave from the side naves. The pillars are kept apart at the top by an oculus that allows a shaft of light to bore down.

Placed on top is a 4-meter cross, making the whole church achieve a height of 75 meters. It’s a great feeling to be able to walk around the whole church yet still feel connected to the center. Light, or God’s providence if you are a believer, enters the church through slim, tall

The snaking pillars, curving alter piece, circular nave and open dome all create a sense of timeless mysticism that anyone can feel... windows, but when its dark outside an illumination system lights up the interior in an uplifting display of colors.

The temple is situated in the award-winning Miasteczko Wilanów residential complex. Walking around the new apartment buildings, the characteristic dome delights when it falls into view through surprising lines of sight. The best view, though, is to be had turning onto the start of Al. Rzeczypospolitej – it must be one of Warsaw’s best vistas. The modernist design of the church is a perfect match for the neighborhood’s new architecture, making an ideal pairing of secular and sacral.

The snaking pillars, curving alter piece, circular nave and open dome all create a sense of timeless mysticism that anyone can feel, Christian or otherwise. Sitting under the dome and contemplating the unknown may give rise to feelings that early Christian worshipers had when they entered the eternal Hagia Sophia in Istanbul – the ultimate domed temple.

Although the church hasn’t won many friends so far, future generations may look on it differently. When bitterness about its cost has faded and nostalgia rubs up against new interpretations of architecture, the temple may finally bathe in the warm glow of appreciation. warsawinsider.pl

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Sea You There!

Funky Fish is a pescatarian heaven that promises to convert fish skeptics into devoted lovers of all things fishy! Our ever-evolving menu covers fresh water fish as well as seafood that’s fried, poached, baked and even ‘al cartoccio’ (roasted in parchment to retain its juicy tenderness). Visit us to try everything from halibut, cod and salmon, through to pike, perch and tench, and even octopus and crab. Our two-course daily lunch menu also includes a meat option for any fish-fearing friends you might have!

Funky Fish ul. Nowogrodzka 25

Newsflash! For New Year’s Eve look no further than Stixx Bar & Grill!

For an early bird price of zł. 549 per head guests can enjoy a 5-course dinner, open bar, and live music until 4 a.m. For details, contact: info@stixx.pl

Cook The Book!

Featuring an introduction by Poland’s premier food writer, Maciej Nowak, this breakthrough cookbook explores the undiscovered world of the country’s top restaurants. In it, both restaurateurs and chefs open a door usually closed to the public, sharing previously unpublished recipes for their most popular dishes and giving readers an inside look at their craft. Containing nearly 100 recipes from 39 restaurants, this Polish-language cookbook is a unique gift for Christmas, presenting a pantry full pleasures and culinary experiences from the top shelf of contemporary cuisine.

The Best Recipes of the Best Restaurants Available at: restaurantweek.pl/ksiazka

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PHOTOGRAPH ON LEFT BY PATRYCJA TOCZYŃSKA AND. TWO PHOTOS ON THE RIGHT BY MARTA BRODZIAK

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Girl Power!

The Alchemist Gastropub is leading the way in the hospitality scene here in Warsaw. How? By creating a new, interactive drinking & dining experience that combines technology and gastronomy – while also empowering the ladies!

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omen like beer too! But having to queue in a multi-tap packed full of dudes to buy a beer is far from ideal for most. The Alchemist has created Central Europe’s first and only self-service ‘Wall of Craft Beer’. Customers can top-up a card at the bar with credit, pay-pass style, and are then free to pour away from eight taps on the wall. Taste profiles, flavor descriptions and alcohol content are displayed on modern iPads above each easy-to-use tap, and you can pour yourself a taster before committing to a full pint. In an ingenious way they’ve eliminated the need to queue, removed the pressure felt by some at the bar when asking the bartender lots of questions or for a taster, whilst still allowing the drinker to have a great, interactive craft beer experience.

Female users are loving the freedom of the experience, in-fact more so than the guys! The Alchemist presents their beers simply on the wall from stronger beers on taps 1 to 5 and progresses down the line to much lighter and more floral IPAs & imported English cider on taps number 6 & 7. Then, at the end of the line, is tap No.8 which is the pour your own Imported Italian DOC Prosecco, which is in itself a technological first, and extremely popular with the ladies of Warsaw.

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English Executive Chef Edward Shellard apparently knows exactly what the Warsaw market wants too. His modern international gastropub cuisine caters to the palates of all the customers perfectly and is paired with the carefully selected beers on tap.

The attention to detail and the sheer variety of his menu is stunning. The offering ranges from premium seafood dishes such as Octopus Carpaccio and black tagliatelle pasta with king prawns, to a lighter, low calorie pizza Bianca with English cheddar cheese, apples, chutney and salad, all the way to possibly the juiciest and best value Entrecote steak in town served with Argentinian Chimichuri sauce!

His menu clearly presents allergy symbols with suggestions of “Protein Pump” dishes and lower calorie dishes for health-minded customers. The front of house team are also charming and highly educated and pay close attention to dietary requirements and customer requests.

The whole experience is incredibly forward thinking and empowering and we simply love it. Ladies! The time is here!

The time is now! The Alchemist Gastropub in Warsaw is leading the way as the first and only self-service craft beer experience in Central and Eastern Europe!

The Alchemist Gastropub Pl. Piłsudskiego 1-3, thealchemist.pl

In the Loft all tastes better

Located on Złota street in central Warsaw, Loft is touts a unique atmosphere thanks to its industrial architecture. Our original menu combines the flavors of different continents while adding a subtle Polish accent. On the menu diners will find both traditional beef burgers, panna cotta, shrimp and beetroot salad, oriental duck and delicious steaks. In addition to our standard menu, we also offer a daily lunch set special.

Loft is the perfect place to take a short break, have some coffee, meet up with friends for lunch or late dinner and generally escape the sense of bustle commonly associated with the heart of Warsaw. Come the evening, our guests love our specially prepared cocktails based on the world’s best liquors.

Aside from a two-floor dining area, our restaurant has a year-round terrace overlooking the Wiecha Pasaż.

Loft ul. Złota 11, restauracjaloft.pl

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Maybe Now?

Renowned across Warsaw, the popularity of Być może shows no sign of fading...

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yć może (‘Maybe’, in English) is a unique culinary space located at Pl. Unii Lubelskiej at Bagatela 14. Though unassuming from the outside, those who cross the threshold find themselves immediately wowed: baked according to our own secret recipes, visitors are confronted by a sea of fresh bread, croissants and buns, not to mention an array of tempting desserts. Mornings are thick with the aroma of coffee; lunch buzzes to the clatter of people enjoying Italian and French cuisine; while evening is all about wine and relaxation...

Być może... has a lot to offer. Our varied breakfasts are never boring, and our options are always healthy, nutritious and diverse. Lunch, meanwhile, is heavily influenced by the produce of the season. In the evening, the menu expands further and is given extra impetus by our choice of wines and cocktails.

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Być może... is more than just a classic bistro. First of all, we’re supremely passionate about our bread and you’ll find rye, wheat and wholemeal variations used in our sandwiches. Allergy sufferers can also choose gluten-free bread for their breakfast, sandwiches or simply to take home. Of course, neither do we forget dessert, and we’re certain that new visitors will be seduced by the sheer variety and taste.

The design is spacious but striking and oozes with atmosphere. Perfect for both large-scale meetings and family gatherings, but also for coffee with friends or an intimate date, the larger than life windows also make it ideal for a lazy day of people watching. Escape the world outside and visit Być może!

Być może ul. Bagatela 14, bycmoze.com.pl

EAT!

PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

LIL’ BOW WOW

Take a bow (or in this case, a bao) for one of the big trends of recent times: Asian street tastes have swept Warsaw, and so too the realization that cheap food doesn’t always mean inferior food. Specializing in bao – soft and pillowy steamed buns cascading with slow-cooked meats and crunchy veg – this spot has attained a serious sense of buzz. Kimchi fries, KFC (Korean Fried Chicken) and fragrant Thai soups round out the menu, with the experience topped off by a hip, post-industrial interior that’s high on chunky wooden benches and exposed concrete touches. Bottom line: addictive!

Ban Bao ul. Żelazna 58/62

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Eat! Top 10 Trends 2017

TREND SPOTTING

With the year coming to its grand finale, the time is right to take a look at the food and beverage trends that smacked into Warsaw in 2017...

10 MUSHROOMS

Hail, hail the end of kale! Instead, 2017 saw chefs the world over lurch towards a more mushroomy direction with the fab fungus appearing prominently on plates. Benefiting from a bumper outbreak of mushrooms, Poland was no different with local cooks keenly adopting them as a star ingredient. But don’t think it ends here. Trend trackers are tipping mushrooms to become one of the big kitchen commodities of the coming year, and not just the bog standard things at the bottom of your garden: expect an invasion of exotic varieties, not to mention a new world of mushroom infused food and drinks.

9SUSTAINABILITY

It’s not the politicians who are out to save the world, that’s for certain, rather its the restaurateurs and bar owners. Sustainability has become a buzz word among them with a growing number of venues and food services making a big deal of their environmental initiatives. In Warsaw,

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examples have come thick and fast and include the use of bamboo plates by Curry Leaves, solar-powered signage at Wegemama, and, erm, reusable metallic straws at Cosmo Bar.

8 KIMCHI

In a country already fixated with cabbage, the ascent of kimchi has perhaps been the most predictable trend of them all. Yet while it’s helped drive Warsaw’s emerging Korean sector, it’s also made more improbable in-roads in local restaurant culture: for proof, see Czarna Woda’s kimchi burgers, The Cool Cat’s Kimchi Mary cocktails and Solec 44’s Polish kimchi salad.

7ACTIVATED CHARCOAL

Black is the new black. Foods using activated charcoal have swept the world and, now, Poland beckons. The ultimate in filthy food porn, these jet black treats have become manna for the Instagram generation.

“...they’ve shaken up the market and rewritten the rules ”

6 HOME DELIVERY REVOLUTION

3AMERICANIZED ASIAN

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2 COFFEE

Home delivery: a new concept it ain’t, but even so 2017 felt like the year the wheel was reinvented. In essence, that was down to two new entrants – Daily and Uber. Between them they’ve shaken up the market and rewritten the rules. Hell, in Uber’s case, customers no longer even need to supply a physical address. Never before have delivery services been so cheap, fast, efficient and convenient.

NICHE WINES

With local interest and knowledge expanding rapidly, Warsaw’s specialist bars have been quick to stretch out and explore niche paths such as orange and bio wines. Further, we’ve seen increased enthusiasm for regions and countries that have been hitherto ignored. The city’s first dedicated Georgian wine bar (Rusiko) is evidence, as is the heightened fascination with domestic born tipples.

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VEGAN

Named earlier this year as the fastest developing vegan city in the world, Warsaw’s thing for healthy eating now borders the fanatical. What’s interesting, however, is how the scene has spidered out into so many unique directions: vegan fine dining? You got it. Burritos? Yep. Sushi? That as well. Crikey, we’ve even got vegan cake shops and ice cream.

The Americans see nothing amiss with plagiarizing another nation’s cuisine before pimping it up to suit their own tastes and needs. And fair play to them, for the consequences are often superior. Now, this way of ‘American-izing’ Asian food has hit Poland with excellent results. See for yourself at the likes of Regina Bar, The Cool Cat and Ban Bao.

You know the coffee scene has changed when even roadside service stations are clamoring for a slurp of the Flat White phenomenon. And Flat White hasn’t been the only trend to gather steam. Cold brew and nitro are also gaining momentum, while the new year is set to see further diversification with mushroom and lavender coffees both tipped for stardom.

1SOCIAL EATING

Hala Koszyki and Hala Gwardii have revolutionized the way Warsaw both eats and socializes. Gathering together market traders and hip F&B providers and then presenting them under one roof has been a master stroke that has left millennials and the middle class in raptures. Neither is the public’s passion set to wane: slated to open next year, Elektrownia is widely expected to be equally successful. warsawinsider.pl

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PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

Eat! Review

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Otto Pompieri Pl. Bankowy 1, facebook.com/otto.pompieri

A REAL PIZZA WORK

More than just the new kid in town, Otto Pompieri challenges the form book...

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reconceptions: bad, aren’t they? You walk in expecting one thing and come out looking like a fool. So it was visiting Otto Pompieri. I’ll be frank, looking at the menu I made up my mind on the spot: “nah, don’t like it.” Why? Because I felt like I’d seen it all before – in 1998. Mainly comprised of pasta and pizza and a few things in between, first impressions cast me back to the kind of choice diners faced before the millennium: plain, mediocre and crushingly boring.

You see, the menu is not large, neither is it fancy: four ‘white’ pizzas, seven ‘red’. There’s the standard choice of pasta, some panini and then an ordinary selection of antipasta. As for soup, that’s a coin flip between either soup of the day or tomato. Put simply it didn’t promise much. Therefore, and I’ve brought this on myself, consider the rest of this piece a simpering apology of Clintonian contrition. I was wrong.

My second thoughts begin with the burrata di bufala DOP. Dense, puffy and oozing milk, this China white cheese comes deliciously surrounded by a ring of tomatoes of varying colors: if it looks fantastic, it eats even better.

One hundred percent Italian ingredients I’m informed, and the results back this up. Then, the pizza, and the bit

that really forces me to beg forgiveness. Off-hand I can think of three or four pizzerias in Warsaw that really get it right, but Otto, this place gets it righter. If that’s not a word then apologies again, the thing is that’s exactly what it is. The artichoke pizza is an orgy of melty greatness, but it’s the margherita that’s the king. There’s no better way to judge pizza performance than a straight-up margherita, and here’s it’s incredible: larger than the plate it’s served on, it’s the celestial experience I thought I’d never find – as for the prices, my God, it’s cheaper than the rubber pies you dial for on a Sunday night. At zł. 21 for 42 centimeters, the margherita offers the best value per sq/cm than anything I can think of.

What about the place itself? It looks every bit as delicious as it tastes. Set within the former, pre-war Hotel Saski, from the outside it shines amid the grind of Pl. Bankowy like a diamond in the rough. Inside, it’s retro Little Italy – only new, polished, slick. From the open kitchen, the cooking brigade engage in banter and bravado while spinning dough in the air: there’s atmosphere in abundance.

With mood and food in perfect alignment, it’s a place that resonates with good times and ambition. (AW) warsawinsider.pl

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PRETTY GREEN

The Green Bear issues a serious challenge to its modern Polish contemporaries...

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sk me to think of Smolna and I think of that hammerhead building at the end of the street: you know, that miserable 70s throwback that hangs over PKP Powiśle like a corpse on a gallows. Yet beyond the commie concrete lies a pathway that zig zags down the hill and opens onto a thin strip of parkland that many overlook. Here, amid the unexpected greenery, is the seat of Kafe Zielony Niedźwiedź.

The name itself is a misnomer for this isn’t a cafe at all, rather a restaurant planted on the ground floor of a modern structure of brick and glass. A refuge of swish fancy, it’s a place of long, dark shadows and discreet decorative touches: it’s a place of sanctuary and seclusion

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and of chic, high living. From the outset, you’re made to feel that good things will happen, and this they do – or, in our case, goose things happen.

Coinciding with November’s ‘feast of St. Martin’, the Insider’s visit sees the daily-tinkered menu dominated by this bird. There is a terrine of foie gras and goose leg: full-flavored and rousing yet delicate and light. Next, a goose broth that’s a rich copper color: it’s focal piece, a goose dumpling, is pert and perfect, yet what makes this dish dance are the little additions that add pleasing pops of pleasure – smoked plums and cherry tomatoes marinated in vinegar with Hungarian paprika. End the world now, for it can’t get any better. But it does. Briefly deviating from our goose-centric journey, we opt for a final starter of veal sweetbreads with wild mushrooms and tartar sauce. Nuanced and

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

Eat! Review

Kafe Zielony Niedźwiedź ul. Smolna 4, kafezn.pl

finely balanced, it deserves to be entered in its own hall of fame.

Mains see us resume our relationship with the goose. This time round, it’s the turn of the breast, and this arrives artfully set on a swirl of beetroot puree; a baked apple sits on the periphery alongside a scattering of rowan berries and fried kale.

When skies are cold and granite, it’s food like this that helps you carry on.

Not that it’s all good news. Over previous visits to The Green Bear dessert has always been a highlight, so I despair when I learn that the previous pastry chef has left. Well, good riddance, as it turns out, for the new chap is even better. To finish comes a chocolate cranberry mousse that explodes in a riot of richness. It’s a grand, majestic finale befitting of the meal.

As a long-serving veteran of Warsaw life, my default reaction is to always compare and

Above from left: broth with goose dumpling, plum, nigella seeds and marinated tomato Breast of goose with spatzle noodles, apple, beetroot and rowan berry Veal sweetbreads with wild mushrooms and tartar sauce

contrast the then with the now. Doing so, I’m moved to remember the times when Polish restaurants served grim, grey ooze glooped to a plate. When Zielony Niedźwieź opened it was as one of the first pioneers of change; four years on, it feels every bit as relevant as when it first launched.

Certified by Poland’s nascent Slow Food movement, the menu gives big billing to the suppliers that keep the pantry stocked. But the truth is, these aren’t the only stars of the show.

There’s the service – charming and disarming – and of course the chef. There since the Bear’s inception, Wojciech Deres has moved with surprising ease from the role of sous chef to head chef, all the while growing in stature and skill. And then, of course, there’s the young lad out back that’s gunning the desserts. Not a bad combo, don’t you think? (AW) warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings By in large, you can expect to pay between zł. 20-35 for starters, and zł.

35-70 for mains. Expect those prices to double in the case of the city’s fine dining venues. Those wishing to cut costs should seek out the weekday business lunch deals now offered by most restaurants. When tipping, 10-20% is considered polite though be aware of automatic service charges in some venues.

2016 Best of Warsaw Award Winner BEST OF WARSAW 2016 KEY WINNERS Fine Dining - Nolita Casual Dining - MOD Upscale Casual - Dyletanci & Rozbrat20 Modern Polish - Mała Polana Smaków

Home delivery by daily.pl

american 42 bakeries 42 balkan 42 british 43 burgers & street food 43 chinese 43 fine dining 44 french 45 georgian 45 greek & turkish 46 hawaiian 46 hungarian 46 indian 46 indonesian 48 international 48 italian 54 japanese & sushi 55 jewish 57 korean 57 latin & spanish 57 mexican 58 middle eastern 60 polish 61 russian 68 scandinavian 68 seafood 68 specialty food shops 70 steak houses 71 thai 72 vegan 72 vietnamese 74

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american Brooklyn Restaurant & Bar Gone are the fancy pants culinary creations once found in the basement, ousted in favor of a menu of pimped-up soul and street food, salads and steaks.

This means fresh tacos not to mention the best-selling ‘Mito’s Beef Ribs’. The ground floor burger bar is more prosaic, offering a standard line-up of burgers and wings.

(C4) Al. Jana Pawła II 18 (Rondo ONZ), tel. 22 114 3434, brooklynbw.eu

Hard Rock Café Instantly recognizable by the giant neon guitar outside, Hard Rock has a pierced staff of skater boys and rock girls and a menu that is, if nothing else, completely reliable. Peruse rock’n’roll swag that includes Joplin’s blouse, Prince’s guitar and Shakira’s pants. (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, hardrockcafe.pl Koko & Roy Spotlighting ‘New American Cuisine’, the thrust here is on comfort food, albeit several steps beyond what you’d rustle up at home: the Odds & Ends (deep fried pigs tails and chicken hearts tumbled into a big bowl and served with pickled red onions and a lash of sriracha aioli) are bold, unexpected and utterly delicious.

The work of an American / Polish husband and wife, Koko & Roy feels fun, innovative and pleasingly casual – a bit like visiting friends who really know how to cook. Much like visiting friends, alcohol too also plays its part: in this case, generous cocktails made to NYC specifications.

Take it all in inside a brill interior that’s all Sputnik lights, intriguing artwork and mustard-toned finishes. (D5) ul. Wilcza 43

bakeries Aromat That many consider this their favorite bakery says it all. French flour and an expert baker ensure brilliant results, while the lemon éclairs deserve their own Facebook page. (C4) ul. Sienna 39, fb.com/ piekarnia.aromat Charlotte While the fancy crowd isn’t to everyone’s

liking, the atmosphere feels truly continental: even more so in warm weather when the terrace packs out. (D6) Al. Wyzwolenia 18 (enter from pl. Zbawiciela), bistrocharlotte.com Paul Specializing in pastries, baguettes and other baked goods, this French chain have rapidly entrenched themselves in the capital following their debut last year.

Various locations, boulangeries-paul.com Qki QKI is the work of two sisters (in-law!) with a passion for the sweeter things in life. Shunning shortcuts and artificial nasties, cookies, cakes and pastries comprise the bulk of the offer here. ul. Topiel 19 & ul.

Belgradzka 14, qki.waw.pl Rozbrat 20 Bakery & Wine Corner Best known for fathering Butchery & Wine, Daniel Pawełek makes his mark on Powiśle with the launch of Rozbrat 20, a high-end bakery that’s worthy of the rave reviews. Breakfast here is among the best you’ll find in Warsaw. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 20, rozbrat20.com.pl SAM Co-owner Małgorzata Kusina-Doran is a fine-bread connoisseur, honing her skills at a bread-making course chaired

by Raymond Blanc. While SAM have expanded to cover numerous locations, this has not been to the cost of the overall quality. many locations, sam.info.pl

balkan Ba Adriatico As a starter, then the grilled peppers stuffed with creamy, regional cheese are irresistible. But then so too the octopus salad. Mains are a victory of simplicity, with dishes like skewered minced beef served with a bitey sauce and a soft, pillowy Lepinja bread. Yet ignore Thursday seafood night at your peril. Croatian-run, this neighborhood spot has an unassuming air that belies the general quality. (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 50/52, ba-adriatico.pl Banja Luka Lots of clunky timber and imported ceramics set the scene at this eatery,

EAT! Listings a Balkan stalwart that’s known for its economical pricing structure and bulky portions. Grilled meats are prominent and the food largely reliable. (E8) ul. Szkolna 2/4, tel. 22 828 1060, banjaluka.pl

british Ę Rybę A couple of places have tried to emulate the taste of the British seaside, but this is the de facto codfather. Here’s a spot where the chips are golden, the fish fresh and the batter crisp and light. Now also serving British breakfast, albeit at a time when most normal people will have already eaten. (E4) Al. Jana Pawła II 18, erybe.pl

burgers & street food Barn Burger Retaining a loyal crowd ever since their 2012 entry on the burger circuit, Barn Burger offer a loud and lively atmosphere and much celebrated burgers with goofy names like Heart Attack and Muppet.

The list by the door notes the results of their American-style eating competitions / greed-fests. (D4) ul. Złota 9. tel. 512 157 567, barnburger.pl Beef’N’Roll If the wheels have fallen off the burger craze then no-one told Beef’N’Roll.

Originating as a food truck, their success has been such that a fixed venue was required. Everything about the food and drink suggests quality is the main consideration. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel.

531 707 070, beefnroll.pl Bez Ości Those lamenting the loss of Warsaw’s first artisan sandwich stop – MeatLove – have been given hope by the opening of a new venture across the street. Specializing in fish-based sarnies and baguettes, the choice includes deboned catches fresh from a stint in the smokehouse served in bread baked in traditional brick ovens. The cod with horseradish choice is a particular bestseller. Closed at press time(D5) ul.

Hoża 51, bezosci.com

Meat Warsaw This project sees a cosmic 1960s rotunda revived as a compact eatery whose brief menu is butch and brawny and comfortably familiar: Philly cheese steak served inside fresh pitta bread; Polish white sausage in a thick corn sauce; and boczek that’s soft in parts and crackly in others – lathered in a thick gloss of plum glaze, it’s a dish that sets off fireworks.

STEAKHOUSE /BAR

(C4) Corner of ul. E. Plater / Świętokrzyska, fb.com/meatwarsaw

Okienko When the chips are down and you’re looking for emergency nourishment, then join the queue outside Okienko: serving Belgian-style frites in paper cones, this street-side hatch is a true window of life. The roster of sauces, written up in marker pen on the wall tiles, are often supberb. With the financial transaction sealed, enjoy your winnings on their small outdoor terrace. (D7) ul. Polna 22 Pogromcy Meatów Yearn no more for the elusive flavor of the backyard BBQ. Specializing in grilled meat, find exactly just that loaded into artisan buns alongside locally grown greens. The sense of homespun quality makes this the kind of comfort food that Warsaw has been missing for years. (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, tel. 505 703 508 Warburger While Warsaw has lost its appetite for burgers, you wouldn’t necessarily tell by popping in WarBurger. Set inside a diminutive cabin, join the scrum for jazzed-up burgers that use slow-food ingredients. If not the best, they’re most certainly up there. (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1, warburger.pl

chinese

Pańska 85 Ample in size, the interiors speak of money well spent. This is especially true because despite the luxury trimmings Pańska looks good without ever losing its dignity. With their kitchen staff headhunted from across China, the food sets a

Nowogrodzka 47a www.beefandpepper.pl reservation: (+48) 785 025 025 Open 7 days a week Monday-Saturday: 12.00-24.00 Sunday: 12.00-23.00

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EAT! Listings standard that has yet to be seen in any Chinese restaurant in Warsaw: there’s delicate salmon rolls wrapped in mango; dim sum that are pouches of pure goodness; and Sichuan-style pork that’s a blaze of sizzle and spice. The Beijing Duck, carved and served tableside, is the highlight. (B4) ul. Pańska 85, panska85.com Regina Bar Stepping past a pair of flowing red drapes at the entrance, guests are ushered in to discover an eclectic world that marries the tastes of New York’s Little Italy to Chinatown next door. This is done excellently with the menu presenting the very essence of ethnic comfort food: General Tso’s chicken, Cantonese roast duck and light, leopard-spotted pizzas.

Brought to you by the makers of MOD, it’s therefore natural that the original style extends to kooky interiors tinged with a trace of retro: a tall mirrored wall and the kind of sparkling chandelier last seen in Boogie Nights. (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, fb.com/ Reginabar Rico’s Concept Never let a name fool you. While Rico’s might sound more like a Mexican food truck, the reality presents a former bathhouse luxuriously decorated with hand-painted Majolica, swanky fittings and even a shimmery pool. The menu has won plaudits around town for its stunning authenticity. Full review next issue. ul.

Krakowskie Przedmieście16/18 To Tu Dumpling Bar A shabby looking shack cabin, To Tu offer what are seriously considered some of the best – if not the best – dim sum in town. Magic-ked up by a Manchurian exile, the experience isn’t unlike being in a sweaty back street haunt in Asia. And that’s a good thing! ul. Niekłańska 33, chinskapierogarnia.pl

fine dining Amber Room at the Sobański Palace Set in the pre-war Pałac Sobańskich, this wedding white manor house is the epitome of luxury: plush, discreet, elegant and serene, it unwraps like the most beautiful of presents – a network of cor-

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ridors and stairwells take guests through a series of rooms and side-chambers.

Impossibly almost, the food measures up to the surrounds. For mains, the sea trout is spectacular, arriving alongside creamy root parsley and fried cubed cucumbers.

(E6) Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, amberroom.pl Atelier Amaro A point of pilgrimage to which diners flock to worship at the table of Wojciech Amaro. This is not an exaggeration.

Awarded what was then Poland’s first Michelin star in 2013, Atelier has grown to become more than a mere restaurant, but the spiritual home of ‘new Polish cuisine’ – a place of precision and perfection, this much-storied venue has lost none of its extraordinary ability to surprise and woo. Changing weekly, the menu promotes Polish ingredients – often weird and unexpected – enhanced by futuristic techniques. An extraordinary experience, it’s a place to put at the top of your foodie bucket list: for the hours you’re here the world stops and you feel like Bond. (E6) ul. Agrykola 1, tel. 22 628 5747, atelieramaro.pl

Belvedere Łazienki Królewskie Set in an imperial age glass orangery, it’s festooned with intricate latticework and botanical exotica. The updated interiors are the work of acclaimed set designer Boris Kudlicka, and lend a fresh, contemporary tone that goes hand in hand with the menu. But behind the gels and emulsions and pretty little swirls, this is cooking of substantial depth; it’s cooking that takes you to the very soul of Polish nature. ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. 22 558 6701, belvedere.com.pl Chłodna 15 Unrecognizable from its previous incarnation, the restaurant wing of what was, until recently, La Maison, has undergone a considerable refurbishment to lend it more gravitas. The big change, however, is the food: the daily changing menu has been purposefully kept limited, allowing chef Arek Wilamowski’s crew to keep standards high. On our visit, that meant a sophisticated French duck pate in

croute cake with raspberry jam and long pepper; and cod fillet a la Grenobloise. It’s already being talked about as a Michelin candidate. (B3) ul. Chłodna 15 L’enfant Terrible Looking like he’s just swaggered in from a rock concert, the unconventional style of Michał Bryś goes beyond surface detail alone. Promising maximum excitement, his imaginative menu isn’t short on daring twists and rollercoaster highs. Maverick in every sense of the word, this is a chef that pushes boundaries in a way few others would dare. Though the menu changes often, keep an eye on recurring classics such as ‘tomatoes, tomatoes, tomatoes’, a kickass course that presents the humble tomato in about ten different forms!

More informal than the other top bracket restaurants, the brainwashed loyalty of Enfant’s fans says much for it. (D8) ul.

Sandomierska 13 (enter from Rejtana), tel.

22 119 5705, eterrible.pl N31 Been there, done it all. That’s Robert Sowa, a national treasure widely hailed for modernizing Poland’s gastronomic sector back in the country’s culinary dark days. A common sight on TV, the chef’s public profile has meant there’s no shortage of bums on seats in his flagship restaurant, but this is more than a chef trading on his past. A chic city center bubble beloved by business types, the food is first class with Sowa’s international travels reflected by surprises such as flawless tuna partnered with kabayaki sauce, yuzu, wasabi dressing and turnip salad. The flavor combinations are exceptional. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 31, n31restaurant.pl Nolita BEST WAWA 2016 “Fine Dining” The deluxe dining scene is filling out in Warsaw, and there’s now a few restaurants that can present an equitable claim for the No. 1 spot. However, it’s Nolita that perch at the top, with a menu that sees largely classical recipes through a sharp, modern prism – chef Jacek Grochowina has created a place that’s coherent and understandable without sacrificing values of innovation. Looking chic and high

EAT! Listings end, the tastes and sensations in this restaurant are thrilling: diners are left speechless by the tuna tartar, while the aged beef fillet is an Insider mainstay.

(D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 292 0424, nolita.pl Platter by Karol Okrasa It’s a fact that Okrasa’s appearances in the kitchen are fleeting and rare, but that’s done nothing to hurt this restaurant’s prestige. Head chef Łukasz Pielak has proved to be a lethal assassin, executing the ideas of his mentor with accuracy and passion. The cooking is detailed, balanced and elegant, with the highlight of our visit being deer in plum sauce. A thing of imperial, velvety richness it’s a dish that turns up the volume on a memorable experience. (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (Hotel InterContinental Warsaw), warsaw.intercontinental.com Salto Fine dining gets a South American makeover thanks to Martin Gimenez Castro, a native Argentinean who has emerged as one of the most influential chefs in latter day Poland. While some critics grumble that the top end of Warsaw’s gastronomic scene has flat-lined a little, Salto continues to push the envelope in terms of breaking boundaries and probing new ground. Light, fresh and full of zing, the ceviche is a must, as is a delve around the Sunday steak menu.

Desserts, meanwhile, are among the most inventive in town. (D5) ul. Wilcza 73 (enter from Emilii Plater), tel. 22 584 8771, saltorestauracja.pl Senses Andrea Camastra’s Michelin-starred tasting menu is a succession of impossible highs and makes a big deal of scientific methods and advances. Full of theater and unpredictable flourishes (billowing mists, imaginative presentation, edible cigars...), this restaurant is never short on dare and dazzle. (C2) ul. Bielańska 12, tel.

22 331 9697, sensesrestaurant.pl Signature You feel a millionaire just being here: we’ve heard the interiors described as a ‘Monegasque state of mind’, and that’s not a bad way to surmise a décor that’s all about friezes and reliefs dated from the time this was the Soviet Embassy, lavish 1950s Oswald chairs, lighting by

Serge Mouille and original Marilyn photos shot by the acclaimed Milton Greene.

Food-wise the restaurant makes a massive splash with a menu that’s clever, creative and pretty. Count on Signature’s seasonally changing desserts providing a happy ending. (D5) ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 55 38755, signaturerestaurant.pl

french L’Arc Looking elegant with its black/white floors and subtle decorations bills at L’Arc can become big number affairs – especially if you hanker for seafood. Pick from numerous types of oysters, or delve into the fish tank for the lobster of your choosing. The catchment area extends beyond the borders of Mokotów, not just because of their ‘fresh from France’ seafood, but because of classic dishes such as Mulard duck and Burgundy snails. (E8) ul. Puławska 16, larc.pl

SHEESHA , AU T H E N T I C C U I S I N E , M E E T I N G P L AC E , D R I N KS

georgian Chinkali Signposted by a Georgian-language shingle, there’s a real sense of pleasure about this place. More modern than your typical folksy ethnic outpost, Chinkali’s draw is indeed its chinkali: dough purses packed with meaty broth. There’s a genuine homemade quality to these slurpy bundles of joy, meaning that while they’re authentic, consistency can vary. And don’t miss out on the red bean chachapuri washed down with a mouthwash-colored tarragon lemonade. (D4) ul. Zgoda 3 Klukovka Jana Pawła’s pavilions are the unlikely location of this culinary beacon: amid the aggressive waft of its kebab shop neighbors, Klukova presents itself as a warming mouse hole filled with banter, babble and rich aromas. Specializing in the foods of ‘the east’, this means a menu inspired by the tastes of Georgia, Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan, and more. The mutton manty dumplings are great, and best appreciated with a bottle of unfiltered Lithuanian beer. (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 45A, klukovka.pl

dom-faraona.com, O r d y n a c k a 13 warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings Rusiko Explaining Georgian cuisine isn’t all that hard. To the uninitiated, it’s representative of the heart, spirit and passion of its people, a cuisine the values the concept of the feast: wine, laughter and song find themselves elevated to roles of primary importance. A food of life, spice and whole-hearted tastes, consider Rusiko as the best ambassador there is for this surprisingly diverse kitchen. Live music lends the weekends a good-humored twist. Note: closed Monday. (E5) Al. Ujazdowskie 22, tel. 22 629 0628, rusiko.pl

greek & turkish

Maho Maho feels like it’s located at the end of the earth – but its distance deters no-one, least of all its army of hardcore followers. Why are they there? The answer is a Turkish grill that takes you right to the heart of this glorious cuisine.

Highly recommended is the Iskender kebab: layers of juicy doner meat served with scoops of fresh tomato sauce and fresh, thin pide bread straight from the wood-fired oven. While you’re there, you may as well stock up on imported goodies

from their adjoining store. Al. Krakowska 240/242, maho.com.pl Santorini Santorini looks scuffed and tired but there’s a bonhomie present that instantly engages. The kitchen attaches no value to things like presentation, preferring instead to simply treat diners to piles of grilled and skewered food that consistently tastes right. Moussaka take away is always a good idea. ul. Egipska 7, tel. 22 672 0525, kregliccy.pl/santorini/ Sofra A highly respected Turkish eatery with a wondrous beef mussaka and a wholly admirable lineup of other ethnic dishes: the lamb shashlik has never failed us.

Pleasingly informal, this neighborhood redoubt feels cheerfully unforced, and it becomes an easy place to hang around in. (C6) ul. Wilcza 71, tel. 731 847 731 Taverna Patris This Greek restaurant is not about sophistication and finesse, it’s about truth and taste. Likewise, the interiors have no airs and graces: there’s a rough and ready style that’s apt for noisy celebrations and familial occasions. Tawerna Patris is not about shallow details or surface appearances. Instead, it’s a place of depth, a place of integrity, a place of joy. (G4) ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 407, tel 22 357 11 11, tawernapatris.pl

Unique selection of Georgian wines and spirits

tue.-wed. from 1500 to 2300 thu.-fri. from 1500 to 2400 sat. from 1200 to 2400 sun. from 1200 to 2300 address: al. Ujazdowskie 22 00-478 Warszawa email: winebar@rusiko.pl + 48 22 628 45 76

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hawaiian Poke Declared this year’s ‘must-have snack’

by The Guardian, poke’s popularity has fanned across the map to become one of the most exciting food fads of recent times. Polynesian by birth, this raw fish salad comes served on a bed of rice and then topped with the sauce of your choice: lemon, teriyaki, and ginger among others.

While Warsaw has experienced the pleasures of poke before, here’s the first restaurant that’s dedicated to it: find it at the bottom of one of the Hogwarts-style turrets that support Most Poniatowskiego.

(F4) ul. Kruczkowskiego 15B, fb.com/ WarsawPoke

hungarian U Madziara U Madziara looks like it took two days to decorate. No-one goes here to marvel at the interiors though, they go in the knowledge that they’ll find great food at prices all bank cards can support. Chef Gabor’s signature goulash is one of life’s simple pleasures, though the service can come across as distracted and inattentive.

(B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 620 1423, umadziara.pl

indian Bollywood Lounge Known for their raucous dusk-till-dawn parties, there is another less hedonistic roll filled by Bollywood: that of a restaurant. The menu is an uncomplicated, classic affair that’s an ideal primer for the party ahead. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, tel. 22 827 0283, bollywoodlounge.pl Bombaj Masala Probably the best looking Indian restaurant in Warsaw. After a disappointing couple of years Bombaj have upped their game and made a sparkling return to form. Bland, oily dishes have been replaced with all the rich, intense tastes you’ve come to hope for. (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 606 688 777, bombajmasala.pl

EAT! Listings

Curry House Ask for something extra hot in Curry House and by Vishnu that’s what you’ll get. Yet at Curry House there is more to sing about than just Poland’s highest voltage vindaloo. The curries are rich and sumptuous and consistently cited as among the best in the city. If in doubt, the chicken tikka masala is a fail-safe request. ul. Żeromskiego 81 & ul. Hoża 54 &ul. Towarowa 35, curry-house.pl Curry Leaf The post-industrial style is diluted by the number of Indian trinkets hanging off the vents and pipes. Owned by the same crew behind the lauded Curry House, you’d be completely correct to assume consistency and excellence. ul. Conrada 5, curryleaf.pl House of Curry Heat seekers can ‘enjoy’ a genuine deathby-fire experience at House of Curry, though far milder curries are available for more sensitive palettes – either way, the experience is fantastic, and good news for those stuck out in the depths of Józefów. ul. Patriotów 11 A, house-of-curry.pl India Express Wola Some notable exceptions / calamities aside, the standard of Indian food in

Warsaw is surprisingly high – the problem lies in its ‘sameness’: same recipes, same menus and not enough being done to distinguish one restaurant from the next.

So it’s on this point that the latest branch of India Express really excel – open from 8 on weekdays, the draw here is a breakfast menu that gives a new spin to Indian food.

For full review, see p. TK. (B4) ul. Sienna 87, indiaexpress.pl

Indian Taste Bad luck or bad cooking? The opposite of thick and fiery, both our Madras and Kadai were watery, weak and wimpy. Much needed rescue came via an additional batch of the chef’s secret chilli paste – clearly, there’s someone who knows what they’re doing and someone who doesn’t.

Fingers crossed we visited on an off-day for there’s certainly lots to like, not least the super-friendly servers and warm, modern design. Second look needed. ul.

Dygata 2, fb.com/indiantasterestauracja The Indian Hut An appalling flashback to dismal times, The Indian Hut is a timely reminder that not all is well in Warsaw’s Indian sector.

Forget the cheap, empty interior, the real problem here is the food: for the Insider that meant a vindaloo that looked and tasted like it had been scooped out from a train station toilet – our worst curry experience for years, possibly ever. (C6) ul.

Piękna 68A

Karma Fresh, contemporary interiors impart a chic, classy look that’s leagues ahead of Warsaw’s other Indian restaurants. The food is impressive, with fresh ingredients and an expansive menu: the vindaloo is a special standout, with big, punchy flavors that leave you tingling long after you leave. (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 501 400 386, restauracjakarma.pl Mandala Mandala is characterized by its blitzing big spices and a vindaloo capable of giving the sweat glands a work out. For something calmer, the creamy mutton methi malai is a masterpiece. ul. Emilii Plater 9/11 / ul. Etiudy Rewolucyjnej 9 / ul.

Sienna 87, mandalaklub.com or indiaexpress.pl

Mr. India Split on two levels the design is contemporary if a little characterless: leather banquettes that leave a sweaty bum print and wood paneling. No problem though, if it looks bland then the food isn’t.

That means an incredible butter chicken that’s deep and immensely satisfying.

Then there’s the vindaloo, an experience that leaves some close to spontaneous combustion. Undoubtedly one of the best regarded Indian restaurants in this town.

Al. KEN 47, tel. 22 213 0689, mrindia.pl Namaste India Responsible for first bringing quality,

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Finest Authentic Indian Cuisine in Locations Around Warsaw

WWW.CURRY-HOUSE.PL

EAT! Listings budget Indian food to Warsaw, Namaste have grown from humble beginnings (three tables and cooking done in a cupboard-sized space behind a curtain) to evolve into a bona fide two-floored restaurant. But expansion has come at the cost of quality – our last trip (March 2017) promises to be the last for some time. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 15, tel. 22 357 0939, namasteindia.pl

indonesian

HOŻA 54

536 443 771

Warung Jakarta The menu has a street foodie edge and is divided into steps wherein diners first pick out their choice of protein, then their rice, before concluding with any vegetables add-ons (e.g. pak choy, green beans or water spinach). While most Warsaw restaurants have a special lunch scheme going on, Warung’s is one that actually warrants a further look: find truly great off-menu dishes that are highly accessible to all levels of income. (D6) ul.

Piękna 28/34

international ŻEROMSKIEGO 81 508 870 774

WWW.HOUSE-OF-CURRY.PL

PATRIOTÓW 11A, FALENICA 512 533 415

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Aioli This runaway hit has taken Warsaw by storm. It’s a jaunty space with hams hanging from hooks and long communal tables that thrive with life. Aioli’s breakfasts, sandwiches, pastas and pizzas are a lesson in clean, simple pleasure: nothing out of the world, just consistently good. This and the liberal prices mean there’s no shortage of people passing in and out the doors. (D3) ul. Świętokrzyska 18, tel. 22 290 102, aioli-cantine.com Ale Wino Dip through an archway to discover Ale Wino, a beautiful wine bar whose menu has been well tailored to the season.

Tweaked for the season is the pork belly, a Złotnicka pig adorned with apple sugar snap peas and celery mousse – gorgeous.

As for the wine, put your faith in the sommelier, Oliver. (F5) ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 628 3830, alewino.pl Bazar Kocha Designed to evoke the spirit of a farmers’

market, the woodsy interior is filled with stall-style units neatly stacked with jars and pots. Yet these are not decorative decoys, but part of a thoughtful grocery offer aimed at showcasing Kocha’s own-made produce. Above all though, this is a restaurant whose menu is strongly influenced by concepts of ‘terroir’. The giant leg of lamb falls off the bone and is a dish to recommend and remember for several months to come. (D6) ul.

Mokotowska 33, bazarkocha.pl The Bell The sense of casual chic extends to an intelligent menu that’s been designed by the gifted Jan Piecuch. On the Insider’s visit (summer 2017) highlights were numerous and frequent and included a sorrel soup with chickpeas and pomegranate; an exquisite halibut and miso; and aged entrecote served with the kind of chips you’ve waited all your life for. (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 21, thebell.pl Bez Tytułu A beautifully decorated restaurant on trendy Poznanska. The menu has French and Polish accents and reflects the chef’s creative streak well. (D5) ul. Poznańska 16, beztytulu.com Bibenda The menu declares Bibenda to be ‘a celebration of food, drink and togetherness’, and that’s precisely what it is.

Augmenting the warm, busy interiors are a thoughtful selection of craft beers and a concise menu that varies from month-tomonth. The apparent simplicity of the food is illusory and belies the kitchen’s knack for spotting interesting combinations such as goose with pumpkin puree, cranberry / red wine jam and chili caramelized beetroot. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 10, tel. 502 770 303, bibenda.pl Brasserie Warszawska Looking for classic cuisine with no daft flights of fancy? Here you have it. At a time when everyone wants to be Ferran Adrià, Brasserie has both a menu and interior that you can understand: panfried foie gras; elegant beef Rossini; and sinful apple tarte tatin, all served inside posh interiors of zinc-plated mirrors and chessboard floors. Their Michelin Bib Gourmand is a source of pride, but it’s the number of repeat clients that are the

EAT! Listings ultimate paean to the skills of the chef.

(E5) ul. Górnośląska 24, tel. 22 628 9423, brasseriewarszawska.pl Bubbles Occupying a small, square room, it’s intimate and relaxed: a place busy with blackboards and bottles, crates and clutter. It radiates warmth and honesty.

The food is exquisite, and includes big, meaty snails farmed in Mazury, and their signature dish: Swiss-style raclette.

Presented on a wooden chopping board, this cheese dish is classic melty goodness, and served alongside a pile of potatoes, onions marinated with caramel and candied pumpkin. Considering the place doubles as a champagne bar the prices are remarkably moderate. (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 512 540 913, bubbles. com.pl Bułkę przez Bibułkę When Bułkę przez Bibułkę was opened the idea was simple – to create a

boutique version of Subway: a high quality sandwich shop people would value. But after they started serving breakfast, the whole thing snowballed into a more bistro-style offer. Now there’s a second venue on Zgoda, it’s not just the quality that’s contributed to the success, but the atmosphere as well. ul. Zgoda 3 & ul.

Puławska 24, bulkeprzezbibulke.pl Casablanca Biały Kamień From the same team behind Na Lato comes Casablanca, a versatile venue that muddies the lines between café, restaurant, wine bar and hangout. Equally comfortable in each of these roles, it’s a place that feels fresh and cosmopolitan, not to mention completely in tune with the swank, glass surrounds. More to the point, it’s given wings to a part of Mokotów that before felt quite sterile. ul. Żaryna 2B, casablancawaw.com.pl Concept 13 You’d expect a rooftop meal at Poland’s

ultimate luxury department store to cost the earth, but that’s not the case.

The zł. 50 lunch deal allows Joe Public to enjoy the considerable skills of Dariusz Barański. That he manages to create different pieces of art each and every afternoon is a testament to his talent – fellow chefs and foodies privately talk of him as a Michelin star in the making. (D4) ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7373, likusrestauracje.pl The Cool Cat Reinventing itself to serve pimped-up plates of ‘Americanized Korean’, this fun spot has come on in leaps and bounds since opening two years back. Autum highlights: K-fries (kimchi, bulgogi beef, chips – messy, delicious), a dessert that saw a heap of matcha tea ice cream stuffed inside a donut (no words for how clever that is), and a Kimchi Mary cocktail that was topped with strips of crunchy bacon. (F4) ul. Solec 38, tel. 787 698 700

The recently opened restaurant and bar Mokotowska 69 is a perfect place for those who enjoy refined food and excellent wine. The restaurant offers classic Polish dishes with a modern twist, delicious steaks and a wide range of wine from all over the world. Mokotowska 69 was designed for those who enjoy Polish cuisine and those who would like to try classic Polish dishes with a modern twist, such as Mazurian crayfish in rowan brandy cream sauce, roasted catfish with pearl barley and beets or roasted duck with pears and blackcurrant. The restaurant also specialises in steaks made from American Black Angus (certified prime grade by the USDA), Scottish Aberdeen Angus and the highest quality Japanese Tajima-gyu cattle, “Kobe-style”: class 5, marbling 9+.

ul. Mokotowska 69, tel. (+48 22) 628 73 84 / (+48 22) 627 20 33, www.mokotowska69.pl

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EAT! Listings Czarna Woda From the blackened, smoking ashes of Kotakota rises a new venture from cult local chef Adam Leszczyński. Seen as one of the great talents of his generation, Leszczyński has reopened his previous premises to serve a menu heavy on the use of activated charcoal. Primed for Instagram addicts, it’s a menu that’s become a huge talking point between millennial foodies: the kimchi burger, served in a black bun, is a thing of inspiration.

Paired with black-colored drinks, join the buzz inside an interior that looks scuffed

and distressed. (E3) ul. Bartoszewicza 3, fb.com/czarnawodabar Dekant Wine Bar Not just a contender for Warsaw’s best new wine bar, but also Warsaw’s best new restaurant! The tuna tartar comes with the added ka-boom of a nose clearing wasabi, while the filet mignon (a snip at zł.

79) is simply astonishing. The surprise are the ash-cooked potatoes, beautiful things with a char that wows. The desserts are few in number but equally outstanding: we fell in love with a passion fruit semi-

freddo with strawberries marinated in Grand Marnier. (F5) ul. Zajęcza 15, dekant. com.pl Der Elefant This leviathan restaurant unravels in a maze of wrought iron and monochrome tiles – beautiful to look at (it was created

by Oscar winning set designer Allan Starski), it’s caused a stir for more than just this alone. Where once the menu looked like it was devised by throwing darts at a cookbook, the focus has now been narrowed. While some of the dishes are strictly middling, the filet mignon (zł.

69) is one of the best meat deals in town in terms of quality / price / consistency. (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, tel. 22 890 0010, derelefant.com Dom Here’s the very epitome of casual dining: set on the ground floor of a suburban house, the warm corners and garden views give Dom a real sense of homey charm. In line with all that is a menu that celebrates simple, honest cooking.

Everyone who visits ends up loving the place. ul. Mierosławskiego 12, tel. 509 165 712

A PLACE IN WHICH WINE PLAYS THE FIRST CHORD IN HARMONY WITH WHAT APPEARS ON THE PLATE…

WE WELCOME YOU

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Drukarnia Wrapped inside an ugly 1950s facade, this former printing house unravels to expose a sensational interior high on retro pieces: jagged-shaped stone floor tiles, a red neon and stern Socialist era statuettes lend a heavy PRL accent, though the big statement at Drukarnia is supplied courtesy of the architecture itself. Tall windows, high ceilings and a peculiar spiral staircase that disappears into nowhere collude to lend Drukarnia a sense of light, space and depth. The food: limited choice of European standards cooked with competence. If you’re in the area, worth a look ul. Mińska 65, drukarnianapradze.pl Dyletanci BEST WAWA 2016 “Upscale Casual” Filled with crisp, modern citizens that radiate confidence, Dyletanci introduces itself as a bistro set with green banquettes and Tom Dixon lamps. The wine selection is among the best in the nation, while the cooking has been left to Rafał Hreczaniuk, a workaholic chef with outrageous talent. His zander fillet

EAT! Listings thrills with every bite. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44A, dyletanci.pl Genesis What the hell is it? Seen as an amorphous blob composed of triangular white plates and large glass panels, Genesis restaurant is an instant head turner. the feeling is of stepping into your own futuristic space adventure. As for the menu, that’s perhaps not as revolutionary as the design demands, offering instead a decent gamut of safe, globally-known choices. (A4) Pl. Europejski 5, fb.com/ genesiswarsaw

Grand Kredens This mighty veteran continues to draw a steady custom on account of a wide-reaching menu that aims to keep everyone happy – and it usually does.

The design is surreal to say the least, and is laid out in such a way as to always guarantee a lively atmosphere. (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 111, tel. 22 629 8008, kredens.com.pl Hala Gwardii Housed in a Tsarist era brick hall, Warsaw’s latest food market / hangout has caused a storm since opening in October. A great tenant mix has seen 25 vendors signed-up, with highlights include raclette from the cool couple at Melt, vegan goodness at Tel Aviv, burgers from the legendary WarBurger and artisan pizza from Lunga. Keeping it social are craft beer points, a bio wine stall, and a late night bar that overlooks it all. If Koszyki was the story of 2016, then Gwardii is this year’s hero – open Friday morning through to Sunday night, a visit is essential. (C3) Pl. Mirowska 2, fb.com/ halagwardii Hala Koszyki Integrating old with new, this huge project brings together some 18 food outlets inside a busy interior that’s all iron girders and industrial lighting. While there’s a feeling that there should have been a bigger focus on artisan, independent traders, that’s done nothing to dent Koszyki’s astonishing popularity. Units of note include the Gringo Salsownia,

Port Royal Fish & Oyster Bar, and the Sobramesa Tapas Bar. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63, koszyki.com Kieliszki Na Hożej The only Polish graduate of the Alain Ducasse academy in Paris, Dawid Balana has combined everything he’s learned along the way to fashion a menu that’s high on local produce but cooked with a classic French twist. The tastes are precise and well-balanced, but also varied enough to give a seemingly simple dishes several interesting sub-plots. From the outside, it looks like something straight from the 6th arrondissement. Through the door, and diners are met head-on by a seductive space that’s dark, intimate and full of gleaming glass: beautiful. (D5) ul.

Hoża 41, kieliszkinahozej.pl Kuchnia Otwarta Kuchnia Otwarta have created a swell of excitement that’s rippled way beyond Wilanów. Why? Plotted out by Michał Molenda, the menu is a sincere work based around regional, seasonal produce: nothing contrived, nothing forced, it’s a card that roots out the very best that Poland has to offer. ul. Klimczaka 1 (Royal Wilanów), kuchniaotwarta.pl La Brasserie Modern The interior of Didier Gomez whispers intimacy, yet it also embraces notions of space and light. The casual elegance that emanates from the design is accented by warm colors, low banquettes and glinting mirrors. The menu fits seamlessly with the surrounds: a fresh, modern look at French cuisine, but one that values clarity and simplicity. (D3) ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8332, sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com

Loft Color, that’s what Loft has. It’s everywhere – from the design, which is all bubble shaped lights and splashy, bright cushions, to the drinks: extravagant cocktails that possibly glow in the dark. The menu is full of playful experimentation, something reflected by a seasonal menu that has, in the past, presented such choices as chicken with strawberries. (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 668 016 964, restauracjaloft.pl warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings Maui Bistro Tiki-style interiors pitch palm fronds against aquamarine and electric pink furnishings: yet despite the overt Polynesian theme, the menu is broad in its brushstrokes – giant cocobowls, hummus, tapas, tagliatelle and the area’s top burger. ul. Kazachzka 3, fb.com/ mauibistro

MOD BEST WAWA 2016 “Casual Dining” Chef Trisno’s menu sets his French culinary training against his Singaporean upbringing. The outcome is a card (actually, a printed sheet of paper) that makes for dangerously enjoyable reading: duck hearts with beetroot / soy emulsion and braised red cabbage; duck confit with pok choy, soy / red wine sauce and spicy cranberry chutney. Moderate prices and funky décor (a retro mirrored wall, upside down plants hanging from the ceiling) give it an ad hoc edge and plenty of character. Note: by day its Warsaw’s top donut store, so visit at night for their proper menu. (D6) ul. Oleandrów 8, fb.com/ MODOleandrow8 Mokotowska 69 Set inside a rotunda at the tail end of the street, it’s a place that exudes elegance and class. Most of all, however, it’s a restaurant to be enjoyed. Brought to you by the same team credited for Merliniego 5, Mokotowska’s appreciation of steak has been lifted from their elder sister.

Yet the virtues of this restaurant extend beyond steak alone: the Insider enjoyed a volley of greats – creamy breaded calf brains, sophisticated smoked eel, and Mazurian crayfish served in a deep, joyous sauce of rowan berry and brandy.

(E5) ul. Mokotowska 69, mokotowska69. com Momu.Gastrobar Dominated by meat that’s cooked using the only smoker of its kind in Poland, the menu is comforting and strangely familiar: these are falvors reminiscent of campfire nights – brawny, smoky tastes with towering Reuben sandwiches, juicy steaks, bone marrow and wooden slabs brimming with meats from MOMU’s smokehouse. Impromptu art, tweeting birds and a neo-industrial design add oomph to the busy ambiance. (C2) ul.

Wierzbowa 11, tel. 506 100 001, momu.pl

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Orzo Functioning until recently as Aioli by Mini, the subsequent re-brand has seen the industrial interiors enhanced by a mother lode of plant life and greenery.

Other changes include the addition of orzo-based dishes as well as a new motto that asserts their connection to ‘people, music, nature’. A cynical attempt to attach themselves to Warsaw’s fad for healthy living, or something more special? We’ll check back soon to check just which it is.

(D6) Pl. Konstytucji 5 Plato Conceived as a ‘smart casual’ restaurant, it’s a reasonably compact space with a modern style and incandescent bulbs hanging from a complex cat’s cradle of interweaving wires: classy but nothing too flashy or flamboyant. Then there’s the menu, a strange work that sees Spanish influences brushing shoulders next to Polish and Asian. It sounds silly and preposterous but my God it works. December saw us wowed by beef tartar cut from Polish Hereford, an aromatic oriental broth, and a refined halibut encircled with sage pesto, redcurrants and fresh almonds. Stunning. ul. Klimczaka 1 (Royal Wilanow), restauracjaplato.pl Rozbrat 20 BEST WAWA 2016 “Upscale Casual” Much noise has been made about Rozbrat 20’s bread and wine selection, but their food is also something of a standout. Our trip in December meant twirls of herring pickled in vinegar and herbs and surrounded by a whorl of pond green colors; expertly assembled and boisterously flavored Hungarian foie gras; and a roll of gelatinous pork with ribbons of crispy salsify and a reassuring, fleshy taste. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 20, rozbrat20.com.pl Secado Casual, intimate interiors complement a menu that’s expanded from its original Latin leanings. Everything we’ve tried here has been close to culinary gold, and that includes the surf & turf, tortillas and the roast beef. (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 66, tel. 608 707 799, secado.com.pl Stixx It’s easy to distrust a menu with such international diversity, but the kitchen crew really make it come together: the

Indian section is particularly outstanding. Then there’s the design, a balance between slick corporate and sexy cosmopolitan: with the Warsaw Spire towering above it outside, it’s the kind of address to take any new arrival who still thinks of Poland as being backward. (A4) Pl. Europejski 4A, tel. 22 340 4040, stixx.pl Strefa If there’s a dining room in heaven, then it probably looks like Strefa – only marginally less white. Pure and pristine, the swan-like elegance of the interior whispers dignity and decorum.

Immaculate and refined, it’s a soothing atelier with a rarefied air. Mostly though, it’s the food that people talk about. Citing Nordic cuisine as his primary influence, chef Łukasz Andruszkiewicz has honed a menu of note which, on our November visit, included a deep and soothing mushroom soup the brought to mind Poland’s dark autumn forest. The tastes are clear and true and say much for a chef that has his brain switched on. (C3) ul. Próżna 9, tel.

22 255 0850, restauracjastrefa.pl Talerzyki From the makers of Bazar Kocha comes a new concept that casts the spotlight on small plates composed of arty looking snacks to peck at. Enjoyed inside swank, retro-tinged interiors, the lively nature of Talerzyki is given an added boost by cocktails inspired by the inter-war age.

(E6) ul. Mokotowska 33/35

Tusz Tusz Bistro Hidden round the back of Pl. Bankowy’s epic blue tower, Tusz Tusz is the kind of place Warsaw needs more of: a catch-all solution with a local menu that keeps office workers in mind – it’s fast, available from dawn but doesn’t cut corners when it comes to basic standards. Full review coming soon.

(C2) Pl. Bankowy 2

Ul Cool and current, the globalized menu has distinct Asian accents and is enjoyed in a rough-chic interior of painted brickwork and

EAT! Listings dangling lights. Come night it feels dark and divey, the kind of place you head to party. And party you will – closing at two during the week and four (and beyond) at the weekend, the vibe is hard and energetic and befitting of Poznańska. (D5) ul. Poznańska 16

Warszawski Sznyt Warsaw’s historic center is rightly glorified for many reasons – its restaurants, however, are not one of them. In fact, there’s probably nowhere in the city with a higher concentration of sub-par efforts. Aiming to redress the balance are Sznyt, an ambitious venue with swank interiors overlooking the Royal Castle, and a kitchen staff headhunted from blue ribbon venues such as Salto and Amaro.

Set over two floors (one focused on Polish cuisine, the other on ‘international’), the pride of the house is afforded to the wood-fired grill. (D2) ul. Senatorska 2, warszawskisznyt.pl Wilczy Głód The jaunty, impish design makes use of cartoonish wolves on the walls and treelike installations strung with bare light bulbs. And look, there’s a furry, mouse resting on a cushion. But if the place is playful and perky, then the cooking is both serious and sincere. Matching international ideas with organic local produce from small family farmsteads, you immediately sense this is a place created out of a love and respect for food. (D5) ul. Wilcza 29A, tel. 22 891 0285

italian Ave Pizza The argument over who serves Warsaw’s best pizza goes right to the wire, but there’s no doubting that Ave Pizza are up there on the leaderboard. Set across a sparse, metropolitan area, this fashionable L-shaped joint comes endorsed by the capital’s notoriously picky Italian community. Order the pillowy calzone and you’ll soon learn why. (E3) ul. Topiel 12, tel.

22 828 8507, avepizza.pl

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DaCurio Although it looks small and humble DaCurio have made quick work of amassing an enthusiastic following.

Credit for that rests with the Roman-style pizza that comes sold by the slice. Made using Italian oils and flour, the pizzas here deserve the adulation they’ve received.

(E3) ul. Tamka 45A Delizia The sheer proliferation of Italian restaurants lends an element of chance to dining out: cut through the noise by visiting Delizia, a place that’s consistently topped polls ever since it launched in 2010. Lorenzo’s cooking is upscale Italian with a contemporary twist, and comes presented by Luca, an ebullient ball of energy who patrols the floor with sparkling good humor. In the hands of these two an unforgettable night comes guaranteed. Top quality imported products, a dimly-lit romantic atmosphere, a tasteful design and faultless food: no wonder so many rate this as their favorite Italian. (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 22 622 6665, delizia.com.pl Dziurka od Klucza An inviting Italian restaurant in which curious doors sit embedded into the walls, as if waiting to be opened by the keys that hang on the tree outside.

Striking a lavender look, the magic of this restaurant is affirmed by its wonderful pasta and intimate style. (E3) ul. Radna 13, tel. 500 150 494, dziurkaodklucza.com.pl Enoteka This L-shaped space feels completely correct: tall ceilings, big windows, marble floors and an overwhelming sense of light and sun. The mood is good. Food matches the serious wine list and includes a rich topinmabur soup, creamy Agnolloti pasta and a hearty steak. These are not attempts at a kitchen revolution, rather a concentrated focus on a menu that makes sense. (C1) Rynek Nowego Miasta 13/15, enotekapolska.pl Focaccia The Insider’s visit went something like this: wrist-thick octopus with an arc of yellow mousse, conversation stopping beef tenderloin alongside a glistening

pool of madeira sauce and then an orange ice cream with caramel and ginger that soon merged into a big gooey brew of chocolatey mess. The only surprise is there’s no Italian in the kitchen – it appears they don’t need one. This is seriously talented cooking inside an interior that fresh and light and reflective of the food. (D2) ul. Senatorska 13/15, tel. 22 829 6969, focaccia.pl La Tomatina Calamitous, slapstick service and accusations pointing to the overuse of readymade ingredients shouldn’t detract from good pizzas served in modern interiors of stark white walls and concrete floors.

Our spicy tiger prawn spaghetti was also okay, even if the presentation looked like a student had cooked it. (D5) ul. Krucza 47A, tel. 22 625 1047 latomatina.pl Mąka i Woda Purists applaud an approach that uses a custom-made oven from Naples and imported ingredients such as 00 Caputo flour and DOP certified San Marzano tomatoes. Scrupulously authentic, it’s no wonder that it’s packed to the gunnels every night of the week – even their Facebook page warns of 20-minute waiting times for a table alone. (D4) ul.

Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 91 87 Otto Pompieri Not just the Insider’s favorite surprise of November, but the Insider’s favorite pizza as well! For full review, see p. 38. (C2) Pl. Bankowy 1 Sexy Duck Marketing themselves as a ‘craft Italian kitchen’, Sexy Duck make a song and dance about artisan this and that while never justifying their own hyperbole. Were they not so keen to tell you otherwise, you’d mistake the food as being something from a mid-market high street chain enterprise. Pl. Konstytucji 3, tel. 22 400 3737 Si From the makers of Secado comes a new downtown venture: Si, a fun Italian stop with homemade pasta, an array of pizza and a hefty choice of cocktails. Geared towards good times, a list of rotating daily offers has done a fair job of drumming up trade. (C3) ul. Marszałkowska 115

EAT! Listings japanese & sushi

refined selection of exceptional dishes – elaborate dragon rolls; delicate gyoza; and beef tataki that’s lightly seared and thinly sliced. It’s all perfect. (D3) ul.

Mazowiecka 2/4

Benihana Fire, flash, show and sizzle: the Benihana experience merges cooking with cabaret with diners sat ringside around teppanyaki grills. These cooking stations are the stage for the Benihana crew to demonstrate their riveting range of nifty knifework and daredevil antics. Outside of the realm of the grill, the sushi is also strikes the right spot. (C4) ul. Twarda 2/4, benihanapoland.com

Izumi Sushi The original location never ceases to amaze with its sushi, though it’s the addition on Biały Kamień that really gets people talking. Here it’s not just the food that wows, but the interiors: a huge venue whose open plan doubles as an indoor forest – you need to see it to believe it.

(D6) ul. Mokotowska 17 (pl. Zbawiciela), tel.

22 825 7950, izumisushi.eu

Fat Buddha Immense in size, there’s a confident feeling of decadent ostentation: with light kept at bay by vast mulberrycolored drapes, what would otherwise appear as an over-sized hall feels intimate and sensual, dark and delicious.

Japanese in spirit, the menu pitches a

Kago Sushi A place of such merit that it’s worth bludgeoning your way through the surging crowds of off-duty lawyers and second rate ‘slebs. A side project from the team behind Izumi, portioning here is strict and skimpy, but the precision, attention to detail and flavors are second to none.

Bills creep up fast as you opt for ‘just one more nigiri’, but such is the brilliance that complaints are rare. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki), kagosushi.pl Sakana Sushi Bar Sushi as a fashion statement? That’s what you find in Sakana, a place where the glam and the great of Warsaw peacock around with feathers on display. Ignoring the general vanity and unpleasantness, one can’t help but applaud the sushi – if there was one winner in the sushi wars of the noughties, then Sakana was it. ul. Burakowska 5/7 tel. 22 636 0505, ul. Moliera 4/6, tel. 22 826 5958, & ul.

Wąwozowa 6, lok.10B, tel. 22 498 8899, sakana.pl Sato Gotuje The tastes of Asia and the Orient are growing increasingly prominent, and not just the posh stuff, but the kind of food you’d look to search out in a back alley market on a backpacking jaunt.

CHRISTMA AS BRUNCH AT SOFITEL WARSAW VICTORIA

CHR RISTMAS IS MAGNIFIQUE

On the first day of Christmas, we invite you to brunch filled with holiday season flavors.

Delicious buffets and a charming family ambience are waiting for you and your loved ones at the Kitchen Gallery restaurant.

The Christmas brunch is served at the Kitchen Gallery restaurant on December 25th, from 12.30 p.m. to 4.30 p.m.

PRICE PER PERSON: PLN 225 - with alcohol package, VAT included Kids up to 6 free of charge Kids from 6-12 PLN 110, VAT included RESERVATIONS: Kitchen Gallery, tel.: 22 657 82 62, e-mail: kitchen.gallery@sofitel.com

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EAT! Listings Representing Japan in all this is Sato Gotuje, a place that’s reinvented a boring pavilion in the depths of Ochota.

Inside, it’s like you’d expect: squashed and steamy with tables crammed in at every angle. The menu, meanwhile, is an exciting departure from the norm – no sushi here, instead, find a medley of bitey Japanese dishes such as pork tenderloin in breadcrumbs served with tonkatsu sauce. With the prices so low the temptation is order your way through the menu, and many do just that. ul. Pawińskiego 24 Shoku In local terms, this has to be amongst the most blogged about restaurants of the year thus far. While it actually opened several months back, it’s only now that the place is gathering steam and getting recognized thanks to wordof-mouth. In truth, it’s not hard to see what the fuss is about: occupying a cool, almost industrial-looking spot not far

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from the Rising Museum, Shoku offers an excellent menu of Asian-style tapas and small plates inside a buzzy background that’s never short of custom. The tuna steak is recommended. (A4) ul. Karolkowa 30, shoku.pl Sushi Zushi The mania for sushi is in recess, and that’s a good thing – the rogue operators are dead or dying off, and are survived by the best. And make no mistake, Sushi Zushi continue to be one of the No. 1 ex-pat choices. Appreciated by a stunning crowd, the rolls are often bold, creative and always astonishingly fresh.

(D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 420 3373, sushizushi.pl Tomo While Warsaw’s other sushi stops gather cobwebs Tomo packs out each night – that should say enough. With the maki, sushi and sashimi bobbing past on wooden platters, this place aims for fast,

maximum turnover without ever making the diner feel second best. (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2344, tomo.pl Uki Uki How much do the locals appreciate Warsaw’s original udon bar? Enough to queue outside the door? That’s right. Dining is a close quarters experience here, but is done so without complaint: that electric pasta maker turns out noodles of such chewy goodness that everyone leaves beaming. (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, tel. 728 827 705, ukiuki.pl Wabu Sushi becomes a heaven’s gate spiritual experience in Wabu with the evening passing in a blur of beautiful compositions, of silky slithers of fish crowned with expert pinches of this, and little brush strokes of that. That’s all elevated even further by deliciously upscale interiors befitting of the Spire location. (A4) Pl. Europejski 2 (Warsaw Spire), wabu.pl

EAT! Listings jewish Florentin A quite beautiful, pale-colored dining room that boldly presents the cuisine of modern day Israel. High on North African twists and turns, there’s a creativity at work here that marks Florentin out as one of the most exciting openings in recent times: if in doubt, the veal with harissa, grilled pepper and pear puree is a winning order that deserves full attention. Onto dessert, and make space for the basil panna cotta served with ‘tomato jam’. (E4) ul. Smolna 40, fb.com/FlorentinWarszawa Tel Aviv Although this multicultural melting pot is best-known for its Israeli street food, it’s the shift towards ‘vegan fine dining’ that has really caught the attention. (D5) ul.

Poznanska 11, restauracjatelaviv.pl

korean Koreanka A courtyard cubbyhole that’s scuffed, informal and fashionably ramshackle.

Such has been the stir created by it, diners arrive in the knowledge that they’ll be scavenging a table and eating what little might be leftover from another sell-out day. Yet here’s the point of contention: is it really all that’s cracked up? The kimchi is exemplary, but not everything works so well. Though raved about by Warsaw’s Instagrammers and bloggers, we were left ultimately disenchanted by the bulgogi – empty, shallow tastes featuring zero zip and blast. (D6) ul.

Koszykowa 59 Miss Kimchi Cheap and cheerful Korean street food served in a small, steamy space that’s frequently packed to the rafters. Box sets come piled high with meat, rice and veg.

The spotlight falls on the bibimbap, a satisfying mess of shredded veg, lively spices, a fried egg and beef bulgogi. This is replenishment in its truest form. (B4) ul. Żelazna 58/62, tel. 570 186 066 Onggi Positive transformations aren’t confined to Ramsay’s Kitchen Nightmares: after

LEVEL 1 POLISH AND BUSINESS CUISINE

a dreadful start characterized by bland, claggy dishes, this Korean restaurant has spun a U-turn that’s left the competition reeling. The menu is daunting in size, but contains wildly interesting finds such as a streaky bacon stir fry, spicy pickled Daikon radish and lotus root simmered in soy sauce. (D2) ul. Moliera 2 Sora Buoyed by a surge in Korean expat numbers, Korena cuisine found itself cresting in 2016. Yet despite the increasingly competitive market, Sora is commonly accepted as the ruler of the roost. The tabletop BBQ sets are an essential order and ideal for the shared bonding experience. It’s even better with copious quantities of Makkoli wine. (A4) ul.

Wronia 45

latin & spanish Casa Pablo “We give Spanish food a new twist,” declares chef Gonzalo de Salas, which explains why, in between pungent cheeses and acorn-fed Bellota ham, we find ourselves demolishing a variety of dishes that buck all notions of tradition: as a starter the beetroot-marinated salmon served with wasabi emulsion is a fine example of this. With de Salas performing balletic tricks in the kitchen, Casa Pablo presents a masterful menu that ripples with adventure. (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5A, tel.

22 324 5781, casapablo.pl

2 SENATORSKA STREET, WARSAW + 48 22 829 20 50 or + 48 609 608 010 WWW.WARSZAWSKISZNYT.PL FACEBOOK.COM/ WARSZAWSKISZNYTRESTAURANT INSTAGRAM.COM/ WARSZAWSKI_SZNYT

Mojo Picon Smart and atmospheric yet still pleasingly casual, the early feedback has been healthy. Specializing in Hispanic cuisine, especially that of the Canary Islands, specific strengths include a broad selection of Spanish wines, artfully composed tapas and a paella for the purists. A smaller operation the size of a mouse hole operates on Poznanska. ul. Prosta 53, mojopicon.pl Tapas Gastrobar The popular practice is to order so many plates and bottles that the table becomes a Magic Eye of kaleidoscope patterns.

A great place for sharing and general interaction, the ambiance and quality belies the corporate anonymity of the

LEVEL 0 MODERN STEAKHOUSE

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EAT! Listings location. Though the gazapcho is first class it’s bettered by the patatas bravos: fried potatoes in a ballsy tomato sauce.

(A4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 251 1310, tapasbar.pl Restaurante Bunuel Spanish-owned Bunuel has left many in raptures. Simple interiors focus attention on the food, which in this case involves a crisp gazpacho that gets you missing summer, and grilled meats that leave many in a swoon. (H4) ul. Walecznych 61, tel. 798 659 554, bunuel-restauracja.com

mexican Blue Cactus Combining the barbecuing techniques of the southern states with the humble but potent tastes of Mexico, this veteran landmark is committed to local produce and fresh flavors, the previous chef’s

finest moment was hoiking over a woodfired grill all the way from Nashville – the steaks will stop you in your tracks. Note: not all recent reports have been positive, with service issues cited as a particular complaint. (E8) ul. Zajączkowska 11, tel. 22 851 2323, bluecactus.pl Dos Tacos Who doesn’t like asking for something that’s ‘under the counter’. In the case of Dos Tacos, doing so means inquiring about their range of ‘salsa clandestinas’: extra hot sauces designed for reckless thrill-seekers. But the true secret weapon at Dos Tacos is Isabel Balderas, a Mexican chef that has mastered the bright, bold tastes of her native country.

This cuisine has enjoyed a breakout year in Warsaw, but while the millennials clamor over new food trucks and funky little start-ups, Dos Tacos is a timely reminder that the old guard sometimes know best. (D4) ul. Jasna 22, tel. 22 243 4618, dostacos.pl

El Barrio Famed for his long association with El Popo, chef Angel Aceves Vivanco has teamed up with Lourdes Estrada to create a cheerful-looking spot on the fringe of New Town. Ringing with colorful patterns and mosaics, the effect – like the food itself – is simple but reassuringly lively. On the Insider’s visit, that meant a hefty chicken burrito given a viper’s bite thanks to a chili habanero salsa – but inconsistencies are plentiful and need to be resolved – fast! (C1) ul.

Długa 6, elbarrio.pl Gringo Bar A Mexican wave is upon us, and high time too. After years of suffering frozen ingredients, timid flavors and daft Mariachi music to persuade us it’s all authentic, a raft of new cut-price eateries are showing the rest how it’s done.

Cooked and folded by fist bumping lads in back-to-front caps and baggy t-shirts, the food at Gringo is fiery, fresh and full

AUTHENTIC POLISH CUISINE

Krakowskie Przedmieście 64 tel. +48 22 826 4770 email. info@delicjapolska.pl www.delicjapolska.pl

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EAT! Listings of zing. There are detractors who claim this is a Polonized version of this cuisine, but the informal Gringo remains one of the market leaders. (E9) ul. Odolańska 15, tel. 22 848 9523, gringobar.pl La Sirena Creamy guacamole the color of Kermit; cocktails that are both vicious and delicious; and drunken beans full of heart and vim. But La Sirena gets even better, particularly with the short ribs burrito and a readjusted ‘almost death salsa’ that’s learned to say POW. Add to this a machete-laden interior that draws inspiration from the ultra-violent films of Danny Trejo, and you understand why this tiny, backstreet cantina has become the talk of the town. At no point in its history has Warsaw enjoyed better Mexican food.

(D5) ul. Piękna 54 Loco Mexicana Some ideas just never make it past the concept stage: take Loco Mexicana, a

place that seeks to exploit New Warsaw’s double pronged mania for craft beer and Mexican food. From the former, they’ve gone for a mundane line-up that falls way short of the boundary-pushing selections of Warsaw’s other tap bars. On the food front, you’re better off picking up some frozen ingredients and packet tortillas from your local store – the results are likely to be better. Enjoy that in a cheap-looking, slapdash interior that feels about twenty five years out-of-date. (D7) ul.

Marszałkowska 17

Margarita Kolendra With neither Polish nor English spoken by the staff (at least, not on our visit), the ordering process can be both labored and bizarre. Those who survive it are rewarded by commendable quesadillas, interesting chilequilas and quite excellent tacos: hat tip to the Al Pastor. Enjoy them in a small, budget-minded interior that feels like it was assembled in a hurry – rather than being a criticism, the ad hoc

spirit lends a sense of authenticity to this pokey, side street venue. ul. Okrzei 35 Spoco Loco It begins with a bead of sweat. Then a couple of tears. Then the real pain starts and doesn’t retract until you’ve rolled on the floor and died for twenty minutes. Spoco Loco’s No. 7 sauce is no laughing matter, and should be treated with respect. But this tiny eatery (it’s essentially one bench) is not founded on gimmicks. The burritos and quesadillas are decent in the comfort food kind of way, and ably supported by a choice of milder sauces that don’t require Red Cross treatment. (H4) ul. Francuska 8, spocoloco.pl Urban Burritos It’s here, in this unassuming subterranean world, that people gather for what is being hyped as Warsaw’s top burrito.

Offering fillings of pork, beef, chicken and Portobello mushroom, wraps come

NEW MENU

Modern take on Italian cuisine

tel.: +48 22 829 69 69 ul. Senatorska 13/15, Warsaw/Old Town restauracja@focaccia.pl, fb.com/restauracjafocaccia www.focaccia.pl

warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings expertly constructed and served with salsas that sing with gusto. Set within shouting distance of the US Embassy, peak times see Urban Burritos fill to the seams with America’s finest. (D6) ul.

Piękna 22, urbanburritos.pl

middle eastern

Dom Faraona Sitting just off Nowy Świat, this Egyptian restaurant comes soaked in the soothing scent of the sheesha. The comprehensive menu has plenty of zingy Middle Eastern small plates for starters, though really earns its stripes on account of its grill dishes: the lamb ribs are a house specialty. If you like what you see, visit their cafe in CH Panorama. (E4) ul. Ordynacka 13, dom-faraona.com

Le Cedre With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoalgrilled lamb chops. (E1) Al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166, lecedre.pl Le Cedre 84 Le Cedre just keep on getting it right.

Authenticity is key in this chainlette (well, there’s another across the river), as you’ll discover when talking to Tony, the Lebanese owner. To see the diversity of this cuisine, order the balbaak (six cold starters) or the byblos (six hot).

And food aside, it’s the atmosphere that

Restaurant & Pastry Shop Warsaw, Żurawia 47/49, open: 7.00 - 22.00 reservations: tel. +48 (22) 621 82 68 Pastry Shop Warsaw, Pl. Grzybowski 2, open: 9.00 - 20.00 Warsaw, Felińskiego 52, open: 9.00 - 20.00

smakiwarszawy.pl

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carries them that extra yard: the whole philosophy of this cuisine is to share and share alike, making it a uniquely engaging experience when dining with friends.

(B3) Al. Solidarności 84, tel. 22 618 8999, lecedre.pl Le Cedre Lounge Furnished in voluptuous Middle Eastern style, the latest subsidiary of the Le Cedre empire bursts with fancy sheesha pipes, extravagant rugs and shimmery satin drapes. It’s a look that’s fun, familiar, intimate and warm. Less encyclopedic than that of its two sister ventures, Le Cedre Lounge has a slimmer menu that introduces several new tastes to fans of Lebanese cuisine. Helplessly more-ish, it’s food that’s in line with the vibey atmosphere and casual air. (C4) ul.

Grzybowska 5A, lecedre.pl Samira There was something a little seedy about Samira’s old location, but that’s all forgot-

EAT! Listings ten in their new digs on Powsińska. Find this great Lebanese supermarket filling a dual role as an authentic restaurant serving authentic dishes such as kafta and shawarma. ul. Powsińska 64a, tel. 22 825 3363, samira.pl Shuk Located behind Hala Banacha in this gradually blooming district of Warsaw, SHUK’s certainly worth the tram ride if you’re not a native Ochotian. An offshoot of the acclaimed Mezze, highlights on our visit included a well-seasoned Arabic soup with lentils and spinach followed by a skillet of fried oyster mushrooms cooked with onions and served alongside harissa topped with rose petals. You’re looking at quite a special place that realigns your mojo on an ashen Warsaw day. ul. Grójecka 127 Sokotra Casting a warm, steamy glow over this corner of Wilcza, Sokotra reveals itself as a well-designed nook with a rough, urban edge: telegraph poles, bare bulbs and exposed lumps of concrete. Yemeni dishes are available though it’s the Indian food that shines – the Madras is intense, pungent and suitably fiery. (D5) ul. Wilcza 27, tel. 22 270 2766, sokotra.pl

polish

Ale Gloria Who said romance was dead? Here wedding white colors are fused with a strawberry motif inside this gourmet fave.

Keeping patrons returning are aromatic dishes with a contemporary twist – try the duck in rose sauce. (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7080, alegloria.pl Bazyliszek Some parts of Bazyliszek hark to its years as a stately, stuffy restaurant. Now though it’s more earthy, with Jurassic portions of meaty, lardy food best consumed with one-liter beers. The Rynek location and festive atmosphere account for its popularity more than anything that comes from the kitchen. (D1) Rynek Starego

Miasto 1/3, tel. 22 831 1841, bazyliszek. waw.pl Bar Gdański Closed in spring, a brief but thorough refit conducted by the new owner has given this milk bar a late lease of life.

Gone are the plastic plants, putrid smells and that slow feeling of death, replaced instead by a fresher look in keeping with the times. Despite this, the historic core has been retained including the daffodil colors and original floor tiles. How’s the food? Cheap. That’s probably the kindest thing you can say about it. Despite that, Gdański feels like an essential part of the community. (B1) ul. Andersa 33, fb.com/ bargdanskimuranow Belvedere Łazienki Królewskie Set in an imperial age glass orangery, it’s festooned with intricate latticework and botanical exotica. The updated interiors are the work of acclaimed set designer Boris Kudlicka, and lend a fresh, contemporary tone that goes hand in hand with the menu. But behind the gels and emulsions and pretty little swirls, this is cooking of substantial depth; it’s cooking that takes you to the very soul of Polish nature. ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. 22 558 6701, belvedere.com.pl Bez Gwiazdek Hide the white tablecloth! One of the more discernible trends of late has seen chefs attempt to replicate fine dining standards but in casual surrounds. Few are more qualified to do so than Robert Trzópek, a man whose résumé includes experience gained in Noma and El Bulli.

Seeking to ‘reinterpret forgotten Polish cuisine’, his tasting menu at Bez Gwiazdek focuses on a different region each month – November was a goosey exploration of Kujawa-Pomerania and included such flights of fancy as a goose-stuffed donut for starter. Intimate, forward-thinking, thrilling, it’s no wonder foodies talk about this place with reverence and awe. (E3) ul.

Wiślana 8, bezgwiazdek.com.pl Bistro Pod Sowami Gloriously restored to its full Art Nouveau pomp, this corner tenement could prove a game changer for this gritty part of shabby, old Praga. Due to open any minute now, interiors have been fitted in a smart, pseudo-industrial style, while the cooking

Wishing Everyone a Merry Christmas & a Happy New Year!

Le Cedre Lounge Grzybowska 5A Tel 22 299 7299

Le Cedre 61

(opposite the zoo) Al. Solidarności 61, Praga Tel 22 670 1166

Le Cedre 84

(opposite the court) Al. Solidarności 84 Tel 22 618 8999

www.lecedre.pl warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings duties have been tasked to Damien Wajda (formerly Nowa Próżna). Previews of the menu promise classy interpretations of classic Polish, though prices have been kept pleasingly right bank and don’t hit the 50s. Full review coming soon. (F1) ul.

Okrzei 26, fb.com/bistropodsowami

hefty dishes from a cheeky menu that is in itself a collector’s item. (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 22 850 3144, czerwonywieprz.pl

Czerwony Wieprz (Red Hog) An amusing restaurant that looks back at communism through a rose-tinted lens.

Under the glowering gaze of commie tyrants, staff dressed like obedient members of the party’s Youth League deliver

Delicja Polska Looking stately (pink bows, gilt touches and immaculate linen) but never stuffy, Delicja have a modern Polish menu that includes sous-vide salmon marinated in beetroot leaves, then topped with horse-

radish foam and dill emulsion. Brilliant.

But then so was everything else we tried, including the exquisite seasoned roast beef. (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 64, tel. 22 826 4770, delicjapolska.pl Dom Polski Almost like it was designed for the manor born, Dom Polski has the rarefied atmosphere of a country retreat: bow-tied staff who click their heels, decorative antiques and a menu that’s a sumptuous anthology of posh Polish cooking. When you need to give visitors a sense of classic Warsaw, Dom Polski is the first out of the hat. (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 2432, restauracjadompolski.pl Dom Polski Belwederska Accessed via curling pathways and bursting shrubs this restaurant conjures images of an aristocrat’s manor. The air of privilege matches a menu that’s rich in fanciful classics such as their signature goose. Elegant and exquisite, consider it your default choice for a taste of true Poland. (F8) ul. Belwederska 18A, tel. 22 840 5060, restauracjadompolski.pl Elixir by Dom Wódki There are some who call the food here ‘deconstructed Polish’. In actuality, ‘reconstructed’ would be closer to the mark. The chef has taken local classics and redrafted the recipes with the swoosh of a contemporary pen. The outcome is a pleasure from start to finish: a life affirming żurek, a tartar that could fulfill ambassadorial duties for Poland, and a handsome beef tenderloin sprinkled with crispy potato shavings.

Thoughtful pairings with lesser-known, boutique vodkas add another dimension that serves to complete this pleasing, patriotic adventure. (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl Folk Gospoda If you missed the last train to Zakopane, then a night in Folk Gospoda is the next best thing. Kitted out like a typical tavern in the Tatras, it’s a good-humored celebration of mountain-slope traditions: heaps of meat and lard with plenty of vodka and song in between. (B3) ul.

Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605, folkgospoda.pl Jaś & Małgosia Insouciant one moment, your best friend

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EAT! Listings the next, the staff at Jaś & Małgosia show the two faces of Polish service brilliantly.

Reactivated a couple of years ago, this gem has a story dating back to the 60s, and a great atmosphere primed for simple food and local drinks. (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 57, tel. 502 033 711, klubjasimalgosia.pl Kafe Zielony Niedzwiedź The Green Bear has turned into the mothership for all things relating to slow food: if in doubt, check the menu, an ode to provenance that comes complete with detailed biographies of their suppliers.

Using creative techniques, this restaurant modernizes Polish food and rolls it out inside a stylish building popular with people who look like they might well be famous. (E4) ul. Smolna 4, tel. 731 996 006, kafezn.pl Kieliszki na Próżnej You’ll find Kieliszki na Próżnej, the latest restaurant to mark the rehabilitation of Próżna, so named after the 1,116 wineglasses that hang tantalizingly over the bar. As an anchor feature the suspended glassware is arresting, and equaled only by a long stretch of wall art doodled by Mariusz Tarkawian. The food matches up to the interiors, with a modern Polish menu that – on our visit – involved a thick, brilliantly spreadable foie gras pate, a thick slab of brawn and a delicate piece of moist Baltic cod. It’s pure seasonal

comfort. (C3) ul. Próżna 12, tel. 501 764 674, kieliszkinaproznej.pl Mała Polana Smaków BEST WAWA 2016 “Modern Polish” Put simply, it works on every level: from the service to the space – outside, a terrace featuring upcycled crates overlooking Morskie Oko, and on the inside, a cute little room with woodsy bits and big glass jars of mystery ingredients. It’s casual, but still fit for more serious roles: e.g. girlfriend night. And the food: exceptional.

Lots of seasonally changing choices that on our visit meant salmon sausage matched with beetroot and horseradish sauce along with pinches of lavender and fennel. (F9) ul. Belwederska 13/44, tel. 22 400 8048, polanasmakow.pl Opasły Tom Sneaked off a lively side street, guests duck down into a chain of two narrow-ish chambers that, whilst not exactly casual, feel comfortable and familiar. Reliant on the freshest local ingredients around, this restaurant’s strategy places an onus on seasonality whilst remaining fiercely creative. (E4) ul. Foksal 17, kregliccy.pl

Papu Evoking the spirit of a gentleman’s manor, Papu looks every inch the classic Polish

restaurant. Reliant on regional produce from mom & pop farmsteads, chef Bartek Kędra’s menu does a gold carat job of enhancing old-fashioned recipes through the use of modern techniques. (D9) al.

Niepodległości 132/136, tel. 22 856 7788, restauracjapapu.pl Podwale Piwna Kompania Prowling mountain bands generate a beer hall atmosphere, while the courtyard garden – designed to replicate a Mitteleuropa square – is one of the best you’ll find. But the obscene portions can’t mask what is pretty poor food. Go there for the experience, if nothing else. (D2) ul.

Podwale 25, tel. 22 635 6314, podwale25.pl Prasowy Delicate diners turn their back on milk bars, yet this canteen-style phenomenon, with its history rooted in communism, has enjoyed a remarkable renaissance and a freshly found popularity with a new generation. Sure, the food is an acquired taste and best described using words like ‘basic’, ‘bland’ and ‘honest’, but Prasowy gets our vote for a cool design that’s seen the 1954 interiors sensitively updated.

(E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16 Restauracja Pod Gigantami All pomp and splendor, huge portraits of monarchs in ermine stare down from the walls; pristine parquet floors gently creak underfoot; from another chamber, the sound of clinking glasses whispers through the air. Yet as much as the interior makes an impact it fails to steal the show. That belongs to Paweł Zieliński, a chef whose biography includes a stint at the Michelin starred L’Ecrivain in Dublin. Now back in Poland, his menu is a patriotic proclamation of all that is good.

It’s here the Insider enjoyed its favorite żurek of 2016. (E5) Al. Ujadowskie 24, tel.

22 629 2312, podgigantami.pl Restauracja Polska “Różana” The rarified atmosphere of Różana is a pleasure indeed. Close to the frontline of Mokotów / Śródmieście, you’d never guess the proximity of the center. Seated in their garden, one feels removed from the city – a fountain burbles quietly in the background, starlings hop around the trees. From the inside, one hears the distant tinkle of the house pianist. Just being here is a thrill in itself, and the food

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THE FIRST AND MOST AUTHENTIC TURKISH RESTAURANT IN WARSAW...

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EAT! Listings is a Polish dining extravaganza served from the top table: farmhouse duck, saddle of venison, etc. (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 22 848 1225, restauracjarozana.com.pl Słoik Jarheads will love Słoik, a place lined with glass jars brimming with colorful ingredients and bright preserves. Find natural Polish produce and traditionalsounding dishes treated with a careful and contemporary hand. The approach pits modernist against classic, and the winner is, well, you. This is traditional Polish food updated for the discerning, latter day palate – and it’s really quite something. (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 600 396 688, restauracjasloik.pl Solec 44 Solec 44 does nothing if not challenge gastronomic norms. Found on the upper floor of a shabby Communist pavilion, the versatility of this place makes it great to hang out with friends over beer and board games: it’s not often you find faces from the TV in the same room as student types, but that’s the kind of inclusive atmosphere here. The biggest draw though is the chef, Aleksander Baron.

Combing the farms and forests of Poland for ingredients, his obsession with old baroque recipes, nose-to-tail cooking and forgotten fermentation processes is inspiring to all who adore cooking. (F4) ul.

Solec 44, tel. 798 363 996, solec.waw.pl

Stary Dom A classic restaurant in style and history: back in the day it was a favorite haunt of jockeys and race goers from the horse track nearby. Pre-war recipes form the basis of the menu, with the team using seasonal produce and the latest technology to bring out its best. ul. Puławska 104/106, tel. 22 646 4208, restauracjastarydom.pl U Fukiera New arrivals looking to get a grasp of local cuisine have many options in varying price brackets. U Fukiera is definitely in the big spend category, but visitors come away with a common sense of wonderment. That’s largely due to

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enchanting interiors that have guests exploring twinkling chambers that unravel like a fairytale. Set in a 500 year old townhouse, the beautiful backdrop is accompanied by a grand menu of duck, venison, veal and lamb. (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 27 (Old Town Market Square), tel. 22 831 1013, ufukiera.pl

for this little secret. In it, flowers, lots of them, and a warming wood interior just right for winter. In summer, head instead to their glorious garden across the street in the park: adding a sophisticated twist to the holy grill, the skewered lamb is to die for. (D10) ul. Odyńca 15, tel. 22 844 3500, restauracjazielnik.pl

U Szwejka Named after the fictional Czech soldier Szwejk, the food here would certainly appeal to the tubby man himself.

Bestowed with Prague street signs, the food is a hardy, meaty affair, and arrives in XXXL portions. The price to quantity (Note: not quality) ratio guarantees queues (yes, queues) that stretch out on the street every weekend. (D6) pl.

Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1710, uszwejka.pl

russian

eekend. $$

Zapiecek Seven Warsaw locales, with our favorite found in the vaulted passages of Świętojańska. The menu is highly traditional, with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’. It’s for the pierogi though for which they’re famous; find approx. fifty types delivered by servers dressed like saucy country maids. Locations inc. ul.

Nowy Świat 64, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska 13, tel. 22 635 61 09, & ul. Wańkowicza 1, zapiecek.eu Warszawski Sen By Mateusz Gessler A quite stunning restaurant dominated by dark geometric patterns and the installations and ideas of guerilla artist Tomasz Górnicki. Once you’ve caught your breath and snapped off a few pics for your Instagram, settle in for a menu that gives Polish ingredients a highly contemporary treatment. If you thought Hala Koszyki was buzzing, then this edgy space is perhaps its biggest buzz of all. ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki), mateuszgessler.com.pl

Zielnik A quiet Mokotów side street is the setting

Skamiejka As a social point, this family-run restaurant works incredibly well. Located at the far end of Ząbkowska, it’s a place filled with assorted clutter and Russian bits and pieces: album covers, books, jars of pickles and jumble sale finds. The welcome is second-to-none, while beverages include a wide range of vodka and beer from the former Soviet-bloc nations.

The food though is a bit of a massacre.

Take the zharkoe: what should be a thick and hefty pot roast is limp and placid and empty of taste. ul. Ząbkowska 37, tel. 512 123 967, fb.com/skamiejka

scandinavian Nabo The décor is, we’re told, typical Danish cafe – bold open windows, simple lines, high shelves filled with books and games on the table. But what is Danish food? There’s Old Danish on the menu: meatballs and open face sandwiches with meat and fish in various textural configurations and then there’s New Danish: an emerging trend towards fresh, seasonal food (no microwave oven at Nabo), with locally sourced and innovatively concocted ingredients. ul.

Zakręt 8, tel. 22 842 0256, nabocafe.pl

seafood Lokal na Rybę Seafood doesn’t play a particularly distinguished role in Warsaw’s culinary history, so the opening of a good fish restaurant tends to get the locals talking. But Lokal isn’t just good, it goes several steps beyond. Open just three days a week

NEW SEASONAL MENU

Ul. Pańska 85 tel. 512 671 756, 22 253 30 30 panska85.com.pl

EAT! Listings (Thu-Sat, evenings only), the rotating menu presents a handful of daily choices against a simple, no pretense interior that’s often packed solid – reservations come recommended, as do the mussel dishes. (D9) ul. Kwiatowa 1/3/4, fb.com/ lokalnarybe U Rysia Devoid of frills bar a glowing neon sign and a brooding mural of Jesus, it looks like a Polish fish restaurant should – basic but with an undercurrent of bustle that keeps the mood bright. It tastes like the real thing as well. Sourcing their catch from the freshwater lakes of northern Poland, the offer is divided into fish that have been smoked, steamed, fried or baked. Check out the perch ‘chips’ fried in batter. (C4) ul. Marszałkowska 140 (enter from ul. Rysia), urysia.com.pl

specialty food shops Bazar Olkuska Once a sad little side street, Olkuska has evolved to become just about the worst kept secret in Warsaw. Home to the city’s top eco-market, trips here end with shopping bags filled with French cheeses, Italian hams, Hungarian sausages and fresh fruit and veg. (E10) ul. Olkuska 12

Befsztyk The Prokopowicz family has come a long way since launching Befsztyk in 1994. Top restaurants, celebs and ex-pats are listed as clients, and all agree that this operation is indisputably ‘top of the chops’. Find steaks seasoned for three weeks, glutenfree smoked meats, Merino lamb, BBQ kits and so much more. Home delivery, internet ordering and English-speaking staff round out this legend. many locations, befsztyk.pl

BioBazar With its previous home in Wola undergoing a substantial redevelopment, the BioBazar has moved to Mokotów. At the forefront of Poland’s food revolution, it’s a place that shines a light on ecologically certified goods and produce. Fresh fish, cheese, eggs, bread, cured sausages, honey... on it goes. Comprehensive in its pitch, everything you need to pursue a bright, happy life is here on this spot. ul.

Wołoska 3, biobazar.com.pl (B4) ul. Żelazna 51/53, biobazar.org.pl British Shop British food and beverages inc. cider, bacon, sausages, gluten free ready meals, confectionary etc. Run by the same team who once operated Fish &

Loft is the perfect place to pause for a moment for a coffee, to meet with friends for lunch or a late dinner – most of all, it’s a chance to escape the city bustle while remaining in the heart of Warsaw. ul. Złota 11 tel. 668 016 964 restauracjaloft.pl

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Chips on Koszykowa, the offer has now expanded to cover non-food items like Royal Wedding souvenirs, England football paraphernalia etc. (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 8, tel. 692 240 804 The Crazy Butcher Grzegorz Kwapniewski, better known as ‘Warsaw’s celebrity butcher’, has a new store in town, that being a corner unit in Hala Koszyki. Named by chefs across town as their principal source of meat, Kwapniewski’s offer includes Polish Red Angus, long-seasoned, marbled beef, not to mention veal, lamb, poultry and cured meats from small scale producers. ul.

Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki) Dobrze Co-op The Dobrze Food Co-op aims to ‘widen access to healthy, seasonal food’ while also supporting sustainable agriculture.

Founded in summer, 2014, the project collaborates with over 20 farms and local businesses and sells fresh vegetables and fruit alongside cereals, dried goods and other bits and pieces. ul. Wilcza 29A & ul.

Andersa 27, dobrze.waw.pl Forteca Kregliccy Spot the stars of Warsaw’s restaurant scene perusing the stalls at this weekly farmers’ market. Held each Wednesday, look for Pan Ziółko, Poland’s first celebrity farmer (!), Portobello’s from the country’s only organic mushroom farm and the

EAT! Listings magical yogurts from Mleczna Droga Manufaktura Serów. ul. Zakroczymska 12, kregliccy.eu/forteca Hala Gwardii Taking its cue from the market places of Lisbon and Marseilles, Hala Gwardii aims to reprise its former pre-war role as the city’s best-known food market.

Designed to complement rather than compete with Hala Mirowska outside, the market is a sensory big bang with dozens of stalls specializing in everything from cheese and sausages, to rolled Thai ice cream and posh pet supplies. (C3) Pl. Mirowska 2, fb.com/ halagwardii Kosher Shop Snuck to the side of the synagogue, stock up on Kosher produce from the friendly store, before hitting up the falafel tent outside for, aside from the obvious, kosher ice cream. (C4) ul. Twarda 6 Kuchnie Świata The first stop for most ex-pats, with an offer that includes food and drinks from across the globe. The choice is vast but mainly involves tinned and packaged products. Internet ordering now also available. Various locations, kuchnieswiata.com.pl Mojo Picon Mojo Picon specializes in vending Spanish groceries, expressly the produce of the Canary Islands. A creditable charcuterie section is enhanced by an array of cheese, wine and jarred exotica.

(D5) ul. Poznańska 3, mojopicon.pl Ostra Kuchnia A superb internet shop retailing quite literally the hottest sauces known to man: brands include Blair’s, Dave’s, El Yucateco, Mad Dog, Melinda’s and many more besides. Also sell jalapenos, chili peppers, salsas and pastes. Polish-only website, but easy to navigate and superb customer service. ostrakuchnia.pl Samira Now in bigger and better premises, this Lebanese supermarket offers a comprehensive rundown of imported goods that ranges from spices, preserves and rubs to nuts, olives, teas and soft drinks. ul.

Powsińska 64A, tel. 22 825 3363, samira.pl

Targ Śniadaniowy The idea is a bit different as it is out in the open air, on the grass, so good weather is a must. Part healthy food market, part breakfast picnic, part educational space, part chance to get your two wheeler fixed but above all, an idyllic way to spend a Saturday morning in a beautiful part of town. Now also present in three other locations: check their web for details.

Al. Wojska Polskiego, tel. 508 121 891, targsniadaniowy.pl Trawa A tight little store whose surprisingly copious food offer (which includes fresh fruit and veg from local markets) is complemented by all kinds of natural unguents, balms, oils and suchlike including those from the celebrated Lavera brand. Highly recommended. Pl. Grzybowski 10

steak houses

Beef n’ Pepper A social space that encourages friends to gather and make merry over big meaty courses. Served on heavy tree stump plates, steaks here use Polish Angus aged for a 28-day period. If you’re into the concept of sharing with your fellow man, then the Beef n’Pepper plate offers a pile of everything: wings, ribs, steak.

(C5) ul. Nowogrodzka 47A, tel. 785 025 025, beefandpepper.pl

Ecological menad certified

From 25 of November ecological shopping on Wołoska 3 stree t Wednesday 10-18, Friday 10-18 and Saturday 8-16

more than

10 0 ve n d or s

Butchery & Wine The Sarf London-born Bertha oven has revolutionized the way steak is cooked, retaining moisture in a way no-one thought possible. Expect robust pieces of animal full of big, brawny tastes, but there’s so much more than just meat: starters involve a sea bass ceviche that pings with citrusy flavor not to mention more-ish pork crackling that pop like fire bangers in the mouth. A place of energy and ambition, it’s a great mix of both new and classic. Bookings advised. (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 502 3118, butcheryandwine.pl warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings Downtown Restaurant There’s now a few candidates for Warsaw’s best steak, and Downtown have certainly upped the erm, stakes, with their new menu. Yes, the doors of Downtown are a gateway to heaven – particularly true if, like us, your vision of heaven is a rich green field filled with fat, juicy cows.

But don’t for one moment assume the offer ends with cows. (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental Hotel), tel. 22 328 8745

Insider noting calamitous service and food that was both over and undercooked. Not on our visit, though. Short and to the point, the menu is defined by its clarity, and we enjoyed a phenomenal yellow curry and banana fritters with the right combo of crunch and goo. Beautifully decorated with charcoal colors and punches of lime, the Insider felt good long after visiting.

Will you? (E8) ul. Puławska 27, tel. 22 126 1943, basil-lime.pl

Ed Red Warszawa You can tell they’re serious about their meat just by looking at the starters: big, juicy marrow bones, mountain oysters, blood sausage and calf’s brain. The steaks are the calling card though, and here you’ll find them dry aged and consumed with the aid of hunting knives. The desserts seem a lumpy afterthought, but they get enough right elsewhere (even decent craft beer at the bar) to keep that little more than a mild annoyance. Pl. Mirowski 1, edred.pl You

San Thai The most successful business model pioneered in recent years? That’s the work of Thaisty, a bright, cheerful spot with a ‘street style’ and moderate prices – queues, at times, stretch out the door.

In many ways, San Thai can be accused of emulating that blueprint: informal, airy surrounds; fair price points; and a menu that covers enough bases while never becoming overwhelming. But this is more than a mere copycat, and so far San Thai have found themselves commended for their fiery recipes and diverse range of dishes. A half-decent wine selection adds to the impression that this street is taking off as something of a scene. (C3) ul. Próżna

Hoża Wine and steak: it sounds so simple, but Hoża have taken two simple pleasures to another level. It’s an ebullient space with service right out of charm school, and a kitchen team with a real knowledge of cows. A red-blooded affair, the menu is a steak sensation and well paired with a handpicked wine list. (D5) ul. Hoża 25A, tel.

603 778 275, hoza.warszawa.pl Merliniego 5 A classic looking steakhouse that swirls in shadow, brickwork and elegant touches, it’s a place to immerse yourself in an atmosphere that’s all surreptitious conversation and distant clinking glasses. The steaks are out-of-this world, with USDA prime beef from New York’s legendary Ottomanelli & Sons and Scottish beef from London’s Smithfield Market. On our last visit we splurged on the Grade 9+ wagyu ‘kobe’ rib-eye and found ourselves eating the steak of a lifetime. (E10) ul. Merliniego 5, tel. 22 646 0810, merliniego5.pl

10, restauracjasanthai.pl

Silk & Spicy If you don’t benchmark Silk & Spicy against what you’d eat in Asia (and you really shouldn’t), then you might enjoy it. “The curry was on taste-wise,” said our disappointed graphic, “but the cream cheese didn’t work in the sushi and the kmichi-style salad served at the beginning was very pedestrian for such a place.” (D5) ul. Żurawia 16/20, tel. 22 629 7012, silkandspicy.pl

thai

Thai Thai In terms of design it’s little short of perfect: gold vaulted interiors lend a muted glow to a largely black on black space while serene looking Buddha’s peer on the diners below. As for the food, that’s one big success story with plenty of lively flavors and dynamic colors. The Tom Yang Kung, a deeply nourishing fish broth that awakens the senses with a sharp, spicy jolt, is a must! (C2) Pl. Teatralny 3, tel. 601 818 283, thaithai.pl

Basil & Lime Reports have been hit and miss, with one

Thaisty The coup here has been the recruitment of Chanunkan Duangkumma, Warsaw’s

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favorite Thai chef. The menu has street food inspirations and also includes several recipes passed down Duangkumma’s family line: consider the BBQ beef skewers essential. Vivid colors and a busy open kitchen lend the place a happy buzz that lasts through the day. (C2) Pl. Bankowy 4, tel. 730 000 024, thaisty.pl Why Thai A calming, almost holistic interior sets the tone for a meal dominated by the rich and aromatic tastes of Thailand. For a lively, spicy start begin with a mango and cashew salad, before moving forward and onto their celebrated curries. Imported chefs keep the flavors authentic, with the pad Thai being something of a house favorite. (E5) ul. Wiejska 13, tel. 22 625 7698, whythai.pl Wi-Taj Despite the name, it’s actually the cuisine of Vietnam that is the dominant entity in this restaurant. There is the odd moment of madness (glazed cherries appearing at random), but in general Wi-Taj does a grand job of representing a kitchen that hasn’t always enjoyed the greatest publicity in Warsaw. The crunchy, perky nem are a fine way to start, but it’s the steaming bowls of pho that have this Insider promising to return. As for prices, these rarely climb north of zł. 30. (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 4

vegan & wholefood Bar Stołeczny So far we’ve seen Warsaw’s vegan scene embrace Mexican cuisine, Italian, Japanese, Thai and lord knows what else. Stołeczny’s kitchen chooses to keep things closer to home, instead sourcing inspiration from the milk bars of yore.

It’s a simple selection of pancakes and pierogi here, but one that’s also simply done well. Tuck in inside a basic interior with a green gingham motif – sometimes, you don’t need much else. (D5) ul.

Poznańska 7, fb.com/barstoleczny

Dżungla Dżungla presents two Warsaw trends and unites them under one roof: craft

EAT! Listings beer and vegan food. They might sound like they make for odd bedfellows, but there’s nothing wrong with the results.

Despite the panda motif and Asian-style wood-clad interior, the menu’s focus is wider than imagined and includes some rather interesting meat-free skewers to enjoy. ul. Dereniowa 2 Edamame Vegan Sushi Sushi without its star ingredient sounds ridiculous, but this vegan sushi joint manages to out-manoeuver its traditional competitors by replacing below-par fish with fresh, vegetarian produce: sugar snap peas, radish, carrots, asparagus, etc. The results are both magical and addictive, and leave you wondering if vegan sushi stands to be Warsaw’s next trend. (D5) ul. Wilcza 11, edamame.pl Falafel Bejrut Light, bright and buzzing with custom, this cheerful venture has a small scattering of seating and an expanded menu whose talking point is award-winning falafel. The hummus, too, is pretty amazing. (B2) ul.

Nowolipki 15 Falafel Bejrut Moliera 8 Falafel Bejrut have grown from life as a ‘food bike’ outside Hala Mirowska, to a runaway juggernaut in the heart of Warsaw. Both the falafel and hummus are exceptional, and you’ll find their latest venue also serving artisanal vegan ice cream from Vegestacja. (D2) ul. Moliera 8 Falafelove Cramped, sweaty and uncomfortable, Falafelove’s customers choose to overlook the aesthetic shortcomings for one very special reason: this is falafel that sets a new benchmark. Recommended is the spicy wrap, comprising of ‘red falafel’, humus, harissa, sundried tomatoes and tahini. If there’s space, join the others on the terrace outside. (C2) ul. Senatorska 40 Krowazywa Packed with girls wearing skating clothes and moon boots, this burgery makes a big boast that their whole menu is 100% plant-based and their food compiled using ‘the best, freshest, unprocessed and full-balanced ingredients.’ The Warzywex, a burger composed of marinated and grilled slices of local veg, is an absolute winner. (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 27/35, tel.

881 777 894 ul. Hoża 29/31, krowarzywa.pl ul. Hoża 29/31, krowarzywa.pl Lokal Vegan Bistro Aside from a small menu consisting of more standard vegan offers, Lokal keep Homer Simpson characters in mind with regular guest slots for street food that’s given a full vegan makeover. Offhand, that’s meant vegan kebabs, cheesesteaks, burgers and zapiekanka, all of which have been pretty damn good. (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, 517 615 122 Momencik Vegan burritos may sound wrong, but at Momencik they’re every bit as good as anything you’ll be used to. The only difference is that you won’t leave feeling like you’ve eaten a sack of socks: on the contrary, it’s got all the perky flavor that Mexican food should have, but none of the unpleasant post-meal bloaty bubbles. And it’s cheap! Diners fork out less than zł. 22 for a lunch deal that includes homemade lemonade, a burrito and soup of the day: it’s your lucky day if that happens to be their tomato soup. (D5) ul. Poznańska 16 Organitheka Seasonal, fresh, organic: Organitheka is all these and more. Raw, plant-based meals are their principal claim to fame, though these are accompanied by a selection of cold pressed juices, raw chia desserts, coconut yogurts and other surprises: the tiny dining room belies the depth of choice and flavor. (C4) ul. Twarda 1, fb.com/organitheka

‘Simplicity, elegance and atmosphere’

Cafe • Wine Bar • Restaurant • Whisky Bar • Wine Cellar ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 515 037 001 www.hoza.warszawa.pl www.facebook.com/hoza25 Open 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-21:00

Vegan Pizza While the place lacks effort on the design front (a plain room with local radio piped around), the pizza is pretty good. There’s 24 to pick from, and while it’s not love at first bite, there’s a tendency to get strangely hooked by the new tastes and alien sensations. Definitely an interesting departure from the high street pizzerias.

Recommended: Italian Madness – melty cheese and herby bursts of pesto. (D5) ul.

Poznańska 7, veganpizza.pl Vegan Ramen Shop Co-joining two fads is always a risky business – just ask Loco Mexicana. All of a sudden, the focus doesn’t fall on just getting one thing right, but two. But despite this double-headed challenge Vegan warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings Ramen have struck gold on account of their complex bowls of restorative goodness: their fan base extends way beyond the boundaries of Saska Kępa. Enjoy in a cool interior filled with cute Japanese props on dozens of ‘levitating shelves’.

(G3) ul. Finlandzka 12A

Veg Deli An entrance with candles, plant pots and seasonal veg charms people in, and they tend to stay on to dine on creative vegetarian options that nearly always hit the spot. The tacos are a bit of a disappointment, but the quinoa burger is fabulous, and the homemade Russian pierogi an absolute highlight. (E3) ul. Radna 14 Wars i Sawa w Nowym With its wide spaces, high ceilings and echoing sense of clatter, there’s something of a canteen spirit to Wars i Sawa. Occupying a chunk of the Nowy Teatr, it gets particularly busy after performances – and rightly so. Fresh, seasonal and well-presented, the food here is vegan, healthy and unerringly popular. The vege-burger sounds prosaic but is actually something of a star turn.

(E9) ul. Madalińskiego 10/16 Wegemama Wegemama gives vegan cooking a zippy twist with their spin on such classics as laksa soup and pad Thai. Overseen

by Piotr and Grzegorz, two chefs with

a proven history in vegan cooking, the kitchen has so far operated at full capacity to deal with the demand. The desserts – made using natural extracts and superfoods – have made a particular impact on Wegemama’s expanding fanbase. (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 28, wegemama.com Weranda Bistro Warmly decorated with shrubbery and dangling paper decoys, Weranda’s design is thoughtful enough to be in equilibrium with the wider Koszyki setting, yet sufficiently distinct to stand apart from the crowd. Kudos, as well, to the food. Celebrated for their salads, don’t expect to be pecking on morsels of rabbit food – instead, pepare for huge, leafy affairs assembled to look complex and intriguing. Recommended is the Croatian salad which rrives ensconced inside jumbo leaves of lettuce and cascading with mango, shrimps, goat cheese and much more besides. (D6) ul.

Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki), weranda.pl Youmiko Vegan Sushi Already well-established in Kraków, Youmiko enter Warsaw’s vegan sushi market hot on the heels of Edamame on Wilcza nearby. There’s definitely more of a hipster, ‘urban guerrilla’ feel to Youmiko, but the sushi is every bit a success. Often better than ‘the real thing’. (D5) ul. Hoża 62, youmiko.vg

vietnamese Oh My Pho A busy, family-run joint, OMP’s specific claim to fame is what many are terming the best and most authentic pho in the ward. Steamy and aromatic, this is pho as it should be: full of big herby thwacks, ribboning noodles, and soft strips of meat in a clear, restorative stock. Often cited as being the ‘soul of the nation’, just a few noisy slurps are all that’s needed to corroborate the life-affirming goodness of this beautiful broth... (D5) ul. Wilcza 32, fb.com/ohmyphowilcza Toan Pho Toan Pho’s bowls of soup with rice noodles come highly recommended; as does the chaos intrinsic to this type of casual Asian eatery. The short menu is in Vietnamese with Polish decoding – although you can ask for an English version. (D4) ul. Chmielna 5/7, tel. 888 147 307 Viet Street Food Bistro What started out as a roaming food truck has settled down into life as a legitimate restaurant. Widely looked upon as the source of the best Vietnamese chow this city’s ever seen, the small menu reveals steaming bowls of pho and banh mi baguettes loaded with meat and greens.

(H4) ul. Królowej Aldony 5/2, fb.com/ vietstreetfoodpl

w

The award-winning Enoteka Polska welcomes guests to the heart of Warsaw’s historic New Town. A perfect combo of restaurant, wine bar and wine store, aside from offering excellent Italian cuisine, we are a renowned importer with a portfolio of prestigious wine labels from across Europe. Our direct import policy allows guests to enjoy outstanding value for money.

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Rynek Nowego Miasta 13/15, enotekapolska.pl tel. 882 048 012

DRINK!

PHOTOGRAPH ANNA WOJTECKA

NIGHT OF THE LIVING DEAD

A celebration of both the burlesque and bizarre, Worek Kości is the bar Edgar Allan Poe would create were he raised from the dead. Dark and decadent, it’s everything you want from a shadowy daytime coffee spot to a lively evening hangout with ad-libbed cocktails and an unconventional program of events: you’re as likely to visit during an open-mic night as you are a discussion on Silesian serial killers. This fascination with the morbid and macabre manifests itself by way of a quirky design featuring hundreds of skulls and book shelves lined with the complete works of Stephen King. Exciting, engaging but above all eccentric, it’s a bar to be valued and enjoyed.

Worek Kości ul. Bagatela 10

warsawinsider.pl

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Drink! Christmas Roundup BUBBLES

G O R ĄC Z K A Z ŁO TA

position yourself in front of the upstairs fireplace for a celebratory cigar and a glass of something tall and lovely: the cocktails are in a class of their own and specifically customized for the season.

CHRISTMAS CHEER(S)

’Tis the season to be merry! For Christmas drinks look no further than the following standout venues...

SEASONAL STAR Though it doesn’t have to be winter to enjoy Bar & Books, it definitely helps. Seen through frosted, foggy windows it’s a venue that reveals itself as a place of dark, delicious colors and rarefied air. Occupying the kind of charismatic gatehouse you’d read about in Dickens,

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WINTER WARMER A piping hot mug of mulled wine, that’s what Christmas boozing is all about. Of course, you could get your fingers sticky at the outdoor wooden cabins that spring up by the Old Town’s ice rink, but for something made with a little more TLC then head instead to Cafe Próżna.

For several years now their grzane wino has been widely recognized as being pretty much peerless.

DRINKS FOR TWENTY Lads (and lad-ettes), there’s no better time than Christmas to assemble all your mates (and a couple who aren’t), before heading yonder to squash in as many drinks as possible in the space of eight hours. Nowogrodzka has become the de facto capital of Poland’s craft beer movement and has several pit-stops that will suit most beery needs. For something more posh, then

CAFE PRÓŻNA

Mazowiecka is reinventing itself as a cocktail run of note. Poznańska, meanwhile, strikes the sweet spot in between with its collection of dive bars, wine spots and busy, on-trend hangouts.

DRINKS FOR TWO Date night demands bubbles and, in this case, quite literally. Now ranked among the top venues in Warsaw, Bubbles have the ambiance bit nailed down: filled with dusty crates, bottles of this and that and the ‘stinky-but-we-love-it’ waft of freshly made raclette, few bars boast the same level of intimacy as this place.

LIGHT FANTASTIC Freta is once again set to transform into a glittery

H A L A KO S Z Y K I

BAR & BOOKS

tunnel of light thanks to the installation of thousands of illuminations hanging overhead. Walking underneath while snowflakes tumble down is a moment of pure Disney joy, one that’s best appreciated with a tasty reward at the end: for that, head to the Elephant Belgian Pub. LOCAL LEGEND Get down with the locals at Gorączka Złota, a steamy pub with a rowdy atmosphere. Touting the dimensions of a cabin boy’s quarters, this tight, pokey den is one of the oldest bars in town. Despite carrying many epic beers from Poland’s rebel brewers, there’s nothing faddish about GZ and it’s this sense

H A L A G WA R D I I

NOWOGRODZKA (DRUGIE DNO)

of normalcy that lends it its enduring appeal.

BE MERRY For that festive feeling of togetherness then make haste to the bars at Hala Koszyki and Hala Gwardii. High on good mood and Christmas spirit, anticipate both to be packed to the rafters with

hooting millennials and the new middle class. No word yet on any special events, but expect each Hala to roll out numerous attractions over the holiday period.

THE OFFICE KNEES-UP The deadliest day in any office calendar is the annual Christmas party:

with so much scope for things to go wrong, you’ll be looking for a venue that’s a strong performing, general all-rounder. In the shape of Stixx the city has a bar that’s large, slick and corpominded but also ruddy good fun: they’ve perfected the art of hosting unwieldy groups of tipsy office bods. warsawinsider.pl

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DRINK! Listings bars & pubs 2Koła Sat, as it is, in the abandoned backspaces and brickyards behind Zachodnia station, 2Koła feels like Warsaw’s dirtiest little secret. Still stained and smelling of grease and oil, this former garage is piled high with dented sofas, warehouse palettes and motorcycling detritus. Yet the supremely friendly owners have turned this shadowy lair into a cult bar that’s specifically celebrated for rowdy jam sessions that cover everything from ragtime to rockabilly. ul. Tunelowa 2B 8 Dzień Tygodnia Though the owners remain the same, the unit that once housed Kwadrat couldn’t be more different: no longer a grungey, shadowy space, it’s been rebooted with lots of brash, bursts of color, strings of fairy lights and pops of modern art. What’s not been lost is the amiable sense of gentle chaos: buoyed by a quirky beer selection and fun music policy, this remains one of the friendliest venues in the parish. (D5) ul.

Poznańska 7

The Alchemist The great British tradition of ‘a pint after work’ is gathering steam in PL, thanks in part to places like this. Lively and cosmopolitan, The Alchemist’s broad ranging appeal – not to mention ‘self-service beer wall’ – makes it a winning gathering point for 5 p.m. drinks. (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 3, thealchemist.pl

Bar Gemba Despite occupying the bottom corner of an office development Gemba isn’t short of character: that is, at least, if you measure character by the number of thrift store armchairs and vintage extras.

Furbished with lampshades, luggage and varying odds and ends, it’s the kind of dark, debauched bar that trended amongst artsy Poles in the early 00s. (D5) ul. Wilcza 50/52

Bar Pacyfik Candy floss pink and ocean blue?

Remarkably, these colors work thanks to lighting that’s kept dimmed and dark: inspired by 80s Mexico City, Pacyfik looks and feels raw and gritty, hip and happening. Catering to more than just the overspill from Hala Koszyki, this hangout

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has assumed immediate cult status and the kind of late night buzz that shouts downtown Warsaw. Their super spicy Bloody Maria can either make or break a hangover. (C5) ul. Hoża 61 Bar Studio The ascetic, modern décor is intentional – both not to compete with the fine adornment of the original walls and to break through the building’s grandiose airs. It’s hard not to be overawed by the sheer gigantism of the Palace of Culture that looms above. It seamlessly slips from café during the day into its more culturally active persona in the evenings, with concerts, film screenings, plays and political discussions. (C4) Pl. Defilad 1, barstudio.pl

Bar Warszawa De Luxe Leave your visit to the weekend when De Luxe unfurls into something resembling a Polish wedding disco. All the requisite characters appear in this spinning vortex of Boney M: vodka-fuelled Incredible Hulks, groping granddads, svelte students and everyone else in between. Somehow, the formula works without a hitch. There are Poles who’d be mortified by this representation of their country, but the truth is, it’s a rip-roaring time that’s enjoyed by most. (D2) Krakowskie Przedmieście 79 Bazar There’s Krusovice, Bernard and Staropramen on tap, and the Czech slant is lent added meat by a series of evenings held in cahoots with the Czech Cultural Centre – it’s during boozy disco nights the party spills into a shadowy cellar with light retro hints. On ground level its raw and industrial with asphalt colors and overhead pipes. You wouldn’t expect it, but the margaritas are smashing. (F1) ul.

Jagiellońska 13

Beirut Newly expanded, Beirut has walls dusted with cult album covers, documentary posters and witty graffiti inspired by Banksy. Busy in the day, and absolutely packed at night, order unconventional beers from androgynous, well-inked staff standing behind a sandbag bar decorated with silver hand grenades and a model tank. During the day there’s a lot of competitive posturing as media types pose by their Macs. But come night, this veneer of cool dissolves into one happy

blur. (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, beirut.com.pl Bez Przesady Bar Though largely getting noticed for their tasty, low-budget Polish menu, the bar part of the deal is kept up by a beer selection that covers everything brewed by Żywiec’s regional beer wing: Browar Zamkowy Cieszyn. The white, bright interiors are given a funky twist by a Space Invaders-style mosaic. (D6) ul.

Piękna 56, fb.com/bezprzesadybar

Bierhalle Having tapped their first beer eight years back, this microbrewery has morphed into a national phenomenon with outposts across the country. All Warsaw locations have a cut/paste Bavarian atmosphere, hefty wooden fittings and waitresses dressed like mountain frauleins. The drinks themselves are formulaic and nothing special. various locations, bierhalle.pl

Bohemia You have to credit them for trying something different, but by going for a slick, corpo style Bohemia have completely missed ‘the essence of Czechia’. Filled with smooth wood and gleaming glass, it feels more boardroom than beer hall (actually, make that bored room). What goes right? The beer. Poured from a ‘tank’ system designed to maintain your beer’s freshness, it’s every bit as good as drinking straight from the tit of Pilsner’s own brew master. (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, bohemiarestaurant.pl

British Bulldog In terms of aesthetic it’s the most accurate replica of an English pub you’ll find. And they get a further nod for a brilliant covered terrace that’s great in all weather. Not that you’ll find many British expats in here, they’ve been boycotting the place ever since the dismissal of the original British manager.

Judging by the poor standards of beer and food, you might want to follow their example. What could have become an expat legend is, in essence, a big wet plop of disappointment. (D4) ul. Aleje Jerozolimskie 42, bbpub.pl

Central Bar The beer (supplied by Bierhalle) is fine, the cocktails are getting better, and the atmosphere is cranked to max: you get

DRINK! Listings the buzzy sense that you’re in the middle of something that’s captured Warsaw’s imagination – the natural focal point of Hala Koszyki, the ever-stretching Central Bar has been one of the biggest hits of 2017. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki) Ceska With its fake brickwork and shameless proliferation of Pilsner paraphernalia, the general feeling is that Ceska feels forced and phony – looking like it was fitted out to a rigid company blueprint, it’s more like the kind of theme pub you’d find off Leicester Square. Service, meanwhile, can be surly, forgetful and occasionally plain hostile. The ‘tank’ pouring system is a considerable plus: try the ‘mliko’, a full pint of creamy foam that can be sunk in a swig. (D4) ul. Chmielna 35, ceska.pl Chłodna 25 After several closures, noise clampdowns and a change in management you’d imagine C25 to be a mere shadow of what it once was. But after a slow start the new owners appear to have rescued this listing vessel and returned it to it best. On the ground floor it’s a place of creaking floorboards and retro armchairs, while the basement gets opened for experimental music nights and improvised orchestras.

(B3) ul. Chłodna 25, klubchlodna25.pl

Czeska Baszta There’s a growing number of Czech pubs in Warsaw, but none do it better than the original. Tucked inside one of the weird turrets that support Poniatowski Bridge, discover divey Czeska immersed in a foggy, yellow-ish glow. Boisterous but extremely friendly, there’s a reason for all the man hugs and back slaps: everyone’s drunk! The cupboard-sized smoking room is where most of the fun happens, and while there’s a good choice of Czech craft beers in the fridge, the real reason to visit are the frothy pints of lager sourced from the owner’s favorite small town breweries. (E4) Tower 22A, Most Poniatowskiego,

work, beer kegs and varying ephemera of the brewing trade – but it doesn’t need that much more: it’s about the beer, after all. (C1) ul. Freta 19 Grizzly Gin Bar More prone than ever to global trends, news that the international gin revival has hit Warsaw comes as no real bombshell.

The style in Grizzly is dark and hip with the design largely limited to moody lighting, some witty murals and a bank of outdated TV sets given an artistic twist; the smoking room is great for accidental meetings with curious characters while the occasional gigs really pack a punch – it’s fast becoming the latest and loudest night in the area. (D5) ul. Wilcza 46

Lolek A boisterous pub with a Bavarian, bacchanalian spirit and a legendary reputation. Though this park-centered bar is best-known for its long summer nights, once the cool weather sets in find strangers squishing together indoors on shaky benches in a rough-and-ready interior. With sausages grilling over an open fire, and the constant din of sloshed merriment in the background, you understand why many have a soft spot for this atmospheric institution. (A8) ul.

Rokitnicka 20 (Pole Mokotowskie), lolekpub.pl

Między Nami With 18 years of service under their belt you may think of Między Nami as being an antiquated has-been. Not so.

Haunted by a mix of media types and local characters, this hip white piece of post-commie Warsaw has an enduring, almost timeless appeal. (D4) ul. Bracka 20,

Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), hardrockcafe.pl

miedzynamicafe.com

Kosmos – Inne Beczki Craft beer, pizza, late nights and DJs! In a nutshell, that’s Kosmos. Attracting the kind of crowd you’d anticipate (trend aware 20/30-somethings), it’s the sort of place where a dull time is rare. (D5) ul.

Poznanska 24

Kraken Rum Bar Named after one of the ocean’s most feared mythical creatures (the scary squid from Pirates of the Caribbean), the woodclad Kraken features a wall of cymbals, heavy furniture and some interesting photography. While there’s some decent bottles of rum, there’s perhaps not enough to justify calling it a rum bar. The place rocks though. (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, fb.com/KrakenRumBar

Elephant Belgian Pub Signposted by a jolly, dancing elephant, this Belgian pub presents its cause the moment you enter – there’s twenty or so taps laid right out in front, and to the left a fridge that’s expected to top out to cover 200 beers. The design is basic – brick-

Legends Over the years Legends has earned a legendary status amongst the expats and Anglophiles. Their cause is helped by touches such as a proper darts board, Sky Sports and a traditional menu that’s as authentically English as the Downing

Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2017

Emilii Plater 25, legendsbar.pl

Hard Rock Cafe Full throttle cocktails, lively staff and a classic rock soundtrack: the energy of HRC is hard to find fault with. And on the rare occasion there is a lull in the night, use the opportunity to sniff around memorabilia that includes a black leather number once worn by Madonna. (C5) ul.

czeskabaszta.pl

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Street cat. Presiding over it all is Graham, a seasoned expat and Everton nut. (C5) ul.

Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’ Approximately twenty bars occupy a series of low-budget prefabricated cabins, presenting possibly the highest density of bars in the capital: in summer, it feels like one big street party. Adding to the gentle sense of confusion comes the realization that so many bars look the same – accessed through clattery, barred doors, visitors walk into what can only be described as murk. Klaps, with its dildo beer taps and phallic walls, is probably the most well-known of the lot.

(D4) Enter from ul. Nowy Świat 26

Państwo Miasto Is there anything better than sitting in a café, book in hand, while watery winter sunshine pours through the windows?

We go to Państwo to do just that, an echoey, cavernous café-bar with a young, lively crowd that’s keen on scholastic events and political causes. Never does it feel too trendy, or too hipster – it’s a place that’s all about atmosphere and friendship. (B1) ul. Andersa 29, panstwomiasto.pl

Paradox Billing themselves as a ‘sci-fi / gamers /

DRINK! Listings role play asylum’ this is a cradle of geeks, nerds and people who collect serial killer memorabilia. Decorated with plastic black crows, a map of Mordor and figurines of goblins, watch as oddly attired suspects engross themselves in ‘for hire’ games with names like Hobbit and Bewoulf. (B1) ul. Anielewicza 2, paradox-cafe.pl

Plan B Plan B is the very essence of dive Warsaw.

Weekends pass by in a raucous blur, with the party spilling out under the colonnades outside – it helps to look like a DJ, but in truth everyone is welcome.

The hangover from this shabby, grubby bar is traumatic. (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), planb.pl

Rozrywki After a couple of years during which it had started to feel a little like yesterday’s man, ul. Mazowiecka has had a resurgence and its sense of self restored. Playing a part in this comeback is Rozrywki, a svelte bar with a clientele that values the importance of looking its best. Beyond the immediate appeal of the beauties and wannabes, the cocktails are the chief enticement and given star treatment by a competent staff who’ve been handed a quality set of tools with which to work with. (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 6/8

Marszałkowska 17

W Oparach Absurdu Hidden under Persian rugs, velvety drapes and reclaimed antiques, some still refer to it as The Spider Bar in reference to the giant tarantula that once hung from the wall. There’s an air of louche 60s living here, and it gets weirder when bands with names like the Bum Bum Orchestra enter to play trumpets amongst vodka-tipping guests. (F1) ul. Ząbkowska 6, oparyabsurdu.pl

Warszawa Powiśle The prime months for this former ticket booth arrive each summer when the deckchairs outside provide ample opportunity for the city’s young and fashionable to gather in an almost carnival-like atmosphere. Once seen as the hipster Center of Power, it still maintains great popularity with whiskered, tattooed sorts. (E4) ul.

Kruczkowskiego 3B, warszawapowisle.pl

Sheesha Lounge Providing you don’t mind sharing the weekend with some of the most gloriously gorgeous people in the city, then a trip to Sheesha ticks all the boxes. Presenting itself in a whirl of action, the exotic, clubby atmosphere hits fever pitch come the midnight hour. Earlier, soak up the atmosphere with a scented hookah while lounging under eastern lights. (D5) Al.

Żyrafa Sucked inside it’s green/blue glow, visitors all but collide against the bar with a swing of the door. It’s just 15 sq/m, but that doesn’t stop drinkers rolling in.

“There’s some nights we’ve had 30 people in here,” says the barman, a thought that both terrifies and exhilarates in equal measure. (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 22

Jerozolimskie 33, sheesha.pl

cafés

Stixx It takes a moment to allow the sheer magnitude of Stixx sink in. Having adjusted to the wow factor of the interior – which can best be described as cosmopolitan-industrial – most retreat to the long, all weather deck which in itself is quite something: the aesthetics are such that a cocktail party on an oligarch’s yacht comes to mind. There aren’t many better places for a drink when the roof is rolled back and the stars twinkle above. (A4) Pl. Europejski 4A, tel. 22 340 4040, stixx.pl

Świetlica Long and narrow, dark and murky, it’s as raw as they come: toilets of grubby menace, a smoking room clad in spray art, broken fittings and general gloom.

Basically, it’s everything you demand from the last bar of the night – a place where you can slide into the shadows and watch the world spin around. (E7) ul.

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Bistro Spatif Beautiful people need beautiful places.

Therefore, it’s a surprise that Mokotowska is so wanting when it comes to daytime venues to break from boutique bingeing.

Bistro Spatif redresses the balance presenting a narrow room that announces itself in a blast of tropical turquoise, bare brickwork and pristine parquet.

Immediately engaging, this compact cafe is everything you need during daylight

hours – and once they’ve closed for the evening, head across the courtyard to the larger, livelier Klub Spatif. (E5) ul.

Mokotowska 58, fb.com/bistrospatif

Blikle There’s a cultured, pre-war look to Blikle, a proud cafe with a 100-year history.

Famous former clients include Charles de Gaulle who swore by their donuts. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 35 (check website for other locations), blikle.pl

Bułkę przez Bibułkę There’s a feminine style to this cafe, what with its cute, girly pastels, petite plant pots and woodsy finishes. But no matter what your gender or age, there’s something immediately sunny and positive about this place. Slow food sandwiches arrive on wooden boards, there’s pretty homemade desserts and a careful choice of wine: falling in love with it is easy. ul. Puławska 24 & ul. Zgoda 3, bulkeprzezbibulke.pl

Być Może It’s all about artisan bread and breakfast in the industrial looking Być Może. It’s taken the concept of Charlotte (groan, there’s even a communal table), and improved it with excellent breads and a crowd that’s a little less pleased with itself. (E7) ul. Bagatela 14, bycmoze.com.pl Charlotte Menora If the air is smug and self-satisfied, there’s a good reason for that: Charlotte have come to embody modern urban Poland: energetic, ambitious and ferociously trend conscious. And to think, some look at it as a mere bakery. Occupying a long space, the latest outpost of this café chain doesn’t overlook the area’s Jewish heritage, with the menu featuring several Jewish delicacies: the bagels are ok. (C4) Pl. Grzybowski 2, bistrocharlotte.pl Coffee Desk With Poznanska having reached critical mass, Wilcza now finds itself acting as a collection vessel catching the overspill.

Actually, that’s a disservice. An attraction on it’s own merits, it’s a street that’s gathering steam in terms of ‘see and be seen’. Aiding that overall vibe is Coffee Desk, a light and bright stop with a buzzy atmosphere, dynamic design and comprehensive choice. (D5) ul. Wilcza 42,

DRINK! Listings fb.com/coffeedeskwilcza

Coffee Karma Order a smoothie, switch off the phone, open a book – it’s that sort of place.

Concerts and art shows figure in their repertoire, as does rather good coffee.

(D6) pl. Zbawiciela 3/5, coffeekarma.eu

Cophi So small you get the idea you could fit Cophi into the palm of your hand, yet no other place in Warsaw is more devoted to sourcing the best coffees in the world.

(D5) ul. Hoża 58/60

ral light that pours through the window.

It’s a place to eavesdrop, catch-up on gmail and daydream the morning away.

The flat white is spot-on as well. (E3) ul.

Fabryczna 28/30, kawiarniafabryczna.pl

ministerstwokawy.pl

KluboKawiarnia Towarzyska With an interior modeled by John Strumiłło, this 50s pavilion has an ascetic design defined by polar white interiors. Contrast is provided downstairs, with deep magenta walls and retro armchairs. Concerts, screenings and art happenings have made it into something of local cultural mainstay. ul.

Zwycięzców 49, klubokawiarnia.net

Czuły Barbarzyńca na Piwnej A Parisian-style bookstore full of steps and wobbles, nooks and alcoves. All agree there’s something special here: maybe it’s the book selection – varied, esoteric and at once compelling. Or maybe it’s the atmosphere, such that browsers anchor themselves on the sofas to lose an afternoon with their nose in a novel while sipping drip coffee.

(E3) ul. Piwna 20/26, czuly.pl

FatWhite_CoffeeBar Super small but perfectly packaged, features number coffee sourced from the acclaimed Kofi Brand and a pristine interior decorated with intriguing art that celebrates Muranów’s past. A personal chef by trade (that’s his Scooby Doo van parked outside), the sandwiches made by Filip are a thousand times superior to the standard coffee shop options. Though diminutive in its size, there’s something special going on here, something that’s good for you and positive for Andersa. (C1) ul. Andersa 6 Kafka Café A chessboard floor and a collection of antlers on the wall characterize Kafka, a bookstore / café whose literary collection is composed of paperbacks rescued from recycling plants. Books are purchased by their weight (zł. 10 per kilo) while the menu includes pancakes, pastas and even doggy treats for your mutt. (E3) ul. Oboźna 3, kawiarnia-kafka.pl Kawiarnia Fabryczna Looking for a place in which to shut the world out and stick your nose in a book?

Head to this warm den to sink inside comfy retro chairs and soak up the natu-

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Brazilian arabicas – some exclusive to Poland – barista Wojciech Rzytki has earned a reputation across Poland for his expert hand. Rave reviews are standard and appropriate. (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 27,

Krem A chic city center hangout with all the swanky, urban elegance of the 8th arrondisement. Opened by the same team behind Monsieur Leon, find their latest little baby decorated with monochrome tiles, marble-topped tables, and retro-styled mirrors. A place of hip sophistication and laid-back vibe, the menu is built around French cheeseboards, raclette and super sexy baguettes. (D6) ul. Śniadeckich 18 Mała Ziemiańska Sat as it is on a street that’s become the Center of Now, Mała Ziemiańska is a pleasing throwback to slower times.

Designed to evoke the artistic spirit of the mid-19th century, this warming café is steeped in shadow and curiosities. A celebration of pre-war Warsaw, the literary pretensions of this bolthole find the walls clad with archaic books and sepia photos of the city that once was. (D7) ul.

Oleandrów 2/4, malaziemianska.pl

Matcha Tea House Renting the space once occupied by the legendary Bastylia, Matcha certainly have a big pair of boots to fill – but fill them they might. Beyond a comprehensive choice of matcha, find also an array desserts that use this green Japanese tea as their cornerstone ingredient. (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17

Ministerstwo Kawy Sourcing their coffee from Koppi, an internationally acclaimed Swedish roasting house, the ministry takes no short cuts in their pursuit of excellence.

Utilizing Ethiopian, Costa Rican and

MiTo Café, gallery, bookstore. Of course, we’ve seen that concept before, just not done in this style. Stark white backgrounds are offset by edgy art, lending the place a Tate Modern feel, something accentuated by the earnest fashion students who gather through the day. And there’s the toilet, a futuristic affair with piped music and a mirrored wall. (D6) ul. Waryńskiego 28, mito.art.pl

Monsieur Leon Found resting on the corner of a quiet residential street, Monsieur Leon is surely one of Mokotów’s best kept secrets. Here, simplicity is the name of the game, with a brief blackboard menu that involves cheese boards, salads and a hefty croque monsieur. (E8) ul.

Sulkiewicza 5

Niezłe Ziółko Café & Deli A shrine to pure and healthy eating, this friendly café doesn’t just brew a great coffee, but bakes its own bread and produces its own yogurt. Sit in the loft to look down on shoppers scurrying to Mokotowska, and on the way out, check out ‘Grandma’s Cupboard’ in the corner: jams, spreads and olive oils are there to buy for home. (D5) ul. Krucza 17 Odette Tearoom Taking its lead from their original dessert stop on ul. Górskiego, the sister venue peddles glorious cakes and pralines as well as a hand-picked selection of boutique teas served in a fragrant and elegant atmosphere. (C4) ul. Twarda 4, odette.pl

Relaks Expertly prepared, right down to the foam art, the baristas here use the finest imported machines and work only with fair trade, ‘specialty’ coffee. If you have time, the drip coffees are more than worth the wait. The crowded interiors supply a retro accent, and are enjoyed by a fashion aware, laptop-touting crowd.

(E9) ul. Puławska 48

DRINK! Listings Resort Originally known for their OTT recycling motif (shopping trolleys re-purposed as seats, street signs as tables...), Resort have pared the design down replacing the old junk with a cool, caramel-colored look high on wood, plants and discreet retro accents. Craft beer, eco-friendly bites, clever cocktails and quality coffee contribute to their popularity, as does a busy events program that’s big on comedy and open mic nights. (C2) ul.

Bielańska 1

Same Fusy Suffused in a candle-lit glow, this 15th century cellar unwinds to reveal a charming brick room suspended in time. Filled with gnarled wooden oddities and tree stump tables, the sweet aroma of fragrant teas helps amplify the fairy tale mood. ul.

Nowomiejska 10

Wrzenie Świata Those with journalistic leanings love Wrzenie Świata. It’s definitely more Macbook than Moleskine, but this bookstore/café attracts plenty of readers (and writers) to its book-lined interior.

Buzzing like a cafe should, it packs out for slideshows and seminars. (E4) ul.

Gałczyńskiego 7

clubs Bal If you thought Nowogrodzka was just about grungy craft beer dens then think again. Proving you wrong is Bal, a club that draws a pleasure-seeking party crew of waifish, wasted model-types and assorted hangers-on. Find them twerking away under one of the most interesting lighting arrangements in the city. (F5) ul.

Nowogrodzka 31, niechzyjebal.pl

Enklawa Forget Tinder, Enklawa is the best pick-up joint around – a classic kitschy, glitzy disco, it draws in huge crowds with a simple lineup of pop and dance hits. Still regarded as the best Wednesday night in Warsaw, it’s the place for singletons looking for a one-night confidence boost.

(D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, enklawa.com

Luztro Feeling naughty? Luztro enjoys a reputation for libertine behavior and illicit pharmaceuticals. Dark, grim and grotty, this after party stalwart gets going at about 4 a.m. on weekends when troglodyte club creatures emerge zombie-like to dance way past sunrise. Jaw grinding, rib rattling electro has never felt better. (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, luztro.pl

N58 The latest entry on Warsaw’s club circuit have issued a manifesto promising deep vocal house, r’n’b, mash-ups and theme

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nights centered around Afro Beats / trap / twerk and hip hop. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58 No Comment Found in one of the towers that prop up Most Poniatowskiego, a ‘sense of unknown’ manifests itself inside this weekend’s only club, a bi-level area whose small size adds to the air of mystery and exclusivity. Away from the prying eyes of Joe Public, find glittery, local celebs getting down and naughty.

(F4) Al. 3 Maja 16/18A, Most Poniatowskiego

Ritual Looking dark and sensual, this two-level space unwraps before you like some elaborate adventure. Candles flicker, atmosphere crackles – moving towards the bar, slinky, sultry club creatures of unfathomable beauty prowl past with drinks poised in hand. Heating up gradually as the night progresses, Ritual moves organically from being a voluptuous bar to a spicy club as the night ebbs towards its heady conclusion. (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, ritualwarsaw.com

Room 13 Connected by a series of inter-linking archways, rooms inside this dressy club throb at the weekends with a super sexy crowd letting loose under the vaulted ceilings. Now in their fifth year, it’s become a stalwart of the Mazowiecka scene. (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 13, room13.pl Sen Pszczoły Famous, infamous or a bit of both?

Moving from their temporary digs in the Koneser Factory, the new-look Sen Pszczoły is every bit as murky as the previous: amid a heavy industrial background, find partygoers enjoying a mixed bag of events that range from didgeridoo performances to full-on techno that makes fillings pop out. ul. Grochowska 301/305, senpszczoly.pl

Smolna 38 One of the most secretive clubs there is: operating a strict no-pictures policy, being caught taking a selfie is a crime punished by expulsion – and how good is that!

Attracting a hardcore crowd, its a place of real sounds: forget the joke DJs most clubs settle for, Smolna’s agenda has thus far included the likes of Simian Mobile Disco and Ellen Allien. (E4) ul. Smolna 38

DRINK! Listings The View Sat on top of the Spektrum Tower this bar/club has reinvented the whole concept of going out in Warsaw. A truly world-class venture, the open-air deck on the 32nd floor offers striking views of the cityscape, first rate cocktails and an international rotation of DJs. No other club nails the champagne lifestyle with quite the same panache. (C4) ul. Twarda 18, theview.pl

cocktails 6 Cocktails If 6 Cocktails has the feeling of hanging around someone’s flat that’s because, actually, you are. This posh Mokotowska apartment has been re-adapted as an exclusive bar frequented by leggy models and society figures: the parties are nuts!

Unmarked from street level, to enjoy the inventive cocktails message them on FB and await your invite. (E5) ul. Mokotowska 57

Bar & Books With the nights long and cold, Bar & Books is T the late night bar you want to retreat to: R C P T M redolent of a Mayfair club transported to C W colonial climes, the wood-paneled interior ≈ W leather-bound C is all tomes, dimmed ≈ C C touches of whimsy such as lighting and ≈ T portraits of chimps. A comprehensive ≈ P ofEwhiskey, cigars and ‘classsic with range ≈ L S a twist’ cocktails await in this discerning Old Town retreat.

(D2) ul. Wąski Dunaj 20, P B B HE MOST

EFRESHINGLY LACES

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EETTM

O

IGARS &

INE &

HISKY

HAMPAGNE

OCKTAILS &

USINE

ASTINGS

RIVATE

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ODWALE

VENTS

OOKS

Bar Wieczorny The cocktails are serious here, with top quality spirits (Vestal, Baczewski, Woodford Reserve) used with equally big name mixes (Fentimans, Big Tom, etc.). Further, you’ll find it’s the right products in the right hands – the staff really know their game.

(D8) ul. Wiśniowa 46, barwieczorny.pl V O L ur

OcatiOns

in new YOrk and Prague

www.barandbooks.pl Bardziej It’s thanks to places like Bardziej that Oleandrów is becoming one of the most talked about streets around. This splitlevel bar does a good job of capturing the essence of the area, with inventive

BaB_inzerce_Warsaw.indd 1

Marszałkowska 21/25 (enter from Oleandrów)

Biała Expect highly individualized cocktails, a thoughtful menu and a glam, vamped up crowd every bit as beautiful as the place itself: set in a gloriously white inter-war villa, this is a place that oozes with sex appeal. in season, there aren’t many finer outdoor gardens. ul. Francuska 2, fb.com/ bialazjedziwypij

Coctail Bar Max Can you trust a cocktail bar that can’t even spell the word? In this case, yes! Max looks bright, cheerful and fully loaded for the sun, and also comes with a smoking alcove in the back stuffed with whisky and cigars. The cocktails are the main affair though, and here they’re extravagant efforts that resemble a tropical jungle in miniature form. Very popular with types that aspire to become footballers’ wives, etc. (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, barmax.pl Column Bar Just the look of Column Bar sweeps you off your feet; there’s something breathlessly classy about it, like you’ve just entered Gatsby’s ballroom. You want to order a pyramid of champagne and dance on their piano. Behave, and order a cocktail instead. For a taste of the classics, the Column Bar is pretty peerless.

(D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44 (Hotel Bristol)

HOOTS

AR AND

Wąski Dunaj 20, 00-256 Warsaw barandbooks.pl Tel.: +48 225.599.199

isit

‘author’s cocktails’ matched against a warm, dimly lit interior that’s heaving with cogs, metal hooks and enigmatic dials.

The later it gets, the better it is. (E5) ul.

12.08.15 20:49

Cosmo Bar Run by Tomasz Roehr – the creator of the acclaimed cocktail den Bar Wieczorny – comes Cosmo Bar, a swank venue inside one of the most enviable addresses in the city: the Cosmopolitan Tower. Beyond the expected cocktails are craft beers, artisan cider and posh snacks. Perhaps more unexpected is the bar’s commitment to ‘zero waste and sustainability’. Furthermore, and maybe a little bizarrely, they also promise ‘bartenders for the planet!’.

Full review soon. (C4) ul. Twarda 4 Kita Koguta The staff aren’t afraid to get imaginative, and that includes serving cocktails in smoking coconut husks. Not all the warsawinsider.pl

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DRINK! Listings experiments go as planned: on our last visit, a basic Bloody Mary was turned into an alcoholic carrot flavored fizz. (E5) ul.

Krucza 6/14

Kiti Bar A raucous bar drawn up by the owners of the nearby Kita Koguta. Dominated by a tall Polynesian totem, this ray of sunshine gets noted for extravagant cocktails served by game staff in zany shirts. (D5) ul. Krucza 6/14

Lazy Dog While Lazy Dog isn’t exactly new, it does feel like it’s turned over a new leaf – what was a good cocktail bar, it seems, has grown to become a very good one.

Seeking inspiration from some of the world’s wackiest artworks, the cocktails aren’t just beautiful to look at, but damn good to drink... If there’s a highlight, that’s the ‘Fight Between A Tiger & A Buffalo’, a spicy, tropical creation complete enveloped in a thick billowing mist. (D5) ul.

Krucza 16/22, lazy-dog.pl

Panorama Sky Bar The Marriott’s 40th floor Panorama has had a couple of incarnations: first, as a glitzy Dynasty throwback, and then, more recently, as something that could have passed for a business class airport lounge. Now it’s been reinvented once again, only this time successfully: find slick, vibrant interiors redolent of London matched up with modern cocktails and twinkling views. (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, panoramabar.pl

The Roots Cluttered with shiny props and pieces rescued from the early days of cocktail making, The Roots could pass for a Victorian era curiosity shop. Looking past the eccentricities that comprise the interior, it’s become famous on account of irresistible drinks mixed and muddled by dapper experts that aren’t so much barmen as they are craftsmen. (C2) ul.

Wierzbowa 11

Weles A swing of the door takes visitors plunging down a blacked-out stairwell and into a basement that emerges from the darkness like a decadent Tsarist relic: glinting chandeliers glimmer over deep leather sofas, their subtle light casting a

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glow over an immaculate clientele. Befitting the venue, the artisanal cocktails are a work of elaborate craftsmanship, and incorporate everything from elite liquors to strips of bacon and flower petals. (D5)

what the girls are like, yeah? Let the fact askmen.com voted it their favorite strip in the world speak for itself. (B3) Al.

ul. Nowogrodzka 11, welesbar.pl

craft beer

Woda Ognista Woda Ognista evokes the jazzy air of a Chicago, Prohibition era speakeasy with a seriously stylish interior that includes a colossal collection of vintage cocktail shakers that glint behind glass. The drinks themselves, rattled up by dapper gents in braces and flat caps, are split between house creations and reprised classics from a bygone era. Some are more successful than others, and it’s a credit to the staff that they’re willing to take comments on board and adapt their precious recipes to suit fussy tastes. (E5)

Solidarności 82A, playhouse.pl

Chmielarnia A subterranean multi-tap found in the depths of the fishing institute. Artisan beers rule the roost here (there’s 15 taps and stacks more beer in the fridge), a point underlined by a glass coffin of mainstream macro lager. While the bar gets loud and rackety, sweaty and sticky, that’s balanced out by a rotating beer offer that’s moderately priced plus a friendly, earnest audience that’s all beer geeks and know-it-alls. (B5) ul. Twarda 42

ul. Wilcza 8, wodaognista.com

(basement level), chmielarnia.waw.pl

Zamieszanie Cuda Na Kiju have built on their continuing success by adding this spot in the glass block next to their tap pub. Here though it’s cocktails that are the draw.

Pre-bottled in a secret room downstairs, meaning none of the ad-libbed artistry of other cocktail bars, and tastes that are closer in line to 90s alcopop drinks than anything else. That doesn’t stop a young crowd from swamping the place come the weekend. (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 6/12

Chmielarnia Marszałkowska With Warsaw’s tap bars all falling over each other to stock the latest tap beers, your options are frequently similar from bar to bar – which is when a good fridge becomes important. Not only can you actually see into Chmielarnia’s, you’ll find it housing the most exciting brews trending around the globe: from the edgy Bermondsey breweries to the Scandinavian giants. Broaden your horizons! (E7) ul.

Zorza Slotted inside what was once Café 6/12, Zorza embellishes the venue’s ascetic PRL style with licks of art deco: it’s an unlikely marriage that manages to work.

Do your pecking, picking, sipping and supping on an outdoor terrace set-up that encourages mingling and interaction. (D4)

Craft Beer Muranów Though still an area thick with beretwearing, dachshund-walking oldies, Muranów is fast catching up with the rest of Warsaw. Taking care of the craft beer angle is this newbie, a bi-level bar with warm tones and 16 taps of beery goodness. ul. Andersa 23, fb.com/craftbeer-

ul. Żurawia 6/12, zorzabistro.pl

muranow

for gentlemen

Cuda Na Kiju Where it all began. Summer catches Warsaw’s original tap bar at its best, with the courtyard of the former Communist Party HQ now home to an entirely different kind of party: on occasions find food trucks and film screenings, and all other times just a massive crowd getting sloshed on 15 types of tap beer. But even outside the sweaty months Cuda is worth the visit: drink inside a modern, glass cube that’s refreshing contemporary. (E4)

Playhouse Not here gorilla gangsters on the door or pushy girls doing the rounds (“buy me drinky drinky”). Instead, Playhouse models itself on the top class mega clubs such as Spearmint Rhino, and the result is a subterranean space removed from the sleaze and murk usually associated with the industry. But you want to know

Marszałkowska 10/16, chmielarnia.waw.pl

ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, cudanakiju.pl

DRINK! Listings Cześć It started as a café, but now Cześć is better known as being at the forefront of the new generation of ‘quali-tap’ bars – small little places with six or so beers on tap. The two owners, Piotrek and Kuba, take their beer seriously, so do expect plenty of new finds as well as traditional favorites from stalwarts like the Artezan and Pinta breweries. The laidback, neighborhood atmosphere is making it increasingly popular with a tight-knit circle of ex-pat drinkers. (C3) ul. Grzybowska 2 (through the side passage), czesc.waw.pl

Drugie Dno To plug into the pounding heart of Warsaw’s craft beer scene, look no further than Nowogrodzka. Joining the ranks of the street’s multi-tap bars is Drugie Dno, a three-level space that’s been themed to evoke the look of a disused power station.

Sporting rugged brickwork and a scuffed style, the industrialized look has been amped up to the max through the use of steel girders, vintage voltage meters and toilets disguised as elevator shafts. (D5) ul.

Nowogrodzka 4

Gorączka Złota Founded in 1996, Złota’s longevity is to be admired, even if the interiors aren’t.

Small, dark and a little pungent, the interiors are rendered out of little more than varnished wood and hundreds of beer coasters. But that’s the clue! The secret of their success is down to the beer. Stocking a range of regional and craft beer, this bar has an underlying honesty that makes it a success. (D5) ul.

stout and cider. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 12, taproom.pl

Kufle i Kapsle All levels of drinkers are catered for in this raw-looking space, from those ready to pay nosebleed prices for beers with spaceships on the label, right the way down to novices taking their first baby steps in the world of craft booze. Interiors are balanced with the pre-war heritage of the place, and are thick with noise, clamor and the spell of spillage. Unisex toilets, meaning there’s usually one idiotka putting a spanner in the queue code. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 25, kufleikapsle.pl Maryensztadt Craft Beer It’s a mixed crowd of locals and tourists that gather in Maryensztadt, a large bar whose 12 taps showcase the highs (and occasional lows) produced by the brewery that gives this pub its name. Set across a series of cavernous chambers inside an attractive Old Town property, its not just beer buffs that it appeals to: sourcing their ingredients from small-scale farmsteads, the kitchen wing of Maryensztadt does a convincing job of representing the tastier side of regional Poland. (D1) ul. Szeroki Dunaj 11 Same Krafty Occupying two narrow, rugged rooms, Same Krafty have rescued Old Town from big beer brands peddling piss. Offering artisan alternatives, this intimate bar has become a magnet for those looking to explore the more subversive side of Polish brewing. (D1) ul. Nowomiejska 10,

hoppiness.ontap.pl

Jabeerwocky Steeped in multinational drunken babble, the super sociable Jabbers is famed for its innovative beer selection and convivial atmosphere. Mark it down as an absolute must-visit, especially if you’re a fan of

47/49, spiskowcy.pl

The Taps No longer a niche movement, the opening of The Taps is another sign of craft beers mainstream market penetration. Set on the once super trendy Sienkiewicza, hopes are high that the opening of this three-floor drinking den could yet revive the fortunes of this street. Appealing to a young, pre-club crowd, the industrial / loft-style décor feels rather contrived and a little too polished. ul. Sienkiewicza 4 Warzą się Losy “Nowhere in Warsaw,” boasts the barman, “has more beer taps per square meter.”

Despite its diminutive footprint, WsL punches above its weight with eight taps turning out new generation Polish beer.

Decked out like an anechoic chamber, the combination of good beer and mouse hole dimensions mean that it doesn’t take long for conversations to crossover with the scattering of strangers at the bar. Soon enough everyone’s drinking together and toasting the night. (D7) ul. Oleandrów 3

live music

samekrafty.pl

Same Krafty Vis-à-vis You wouldn’t have thought it a year back, but reasons keep emerging to drink in the Old Town. When it comes to pubs, Same Krafty top the list, but try getting served at peak drinking time. So here’s some brilliant news: they’ve now opened another bar opposite. Pass under a dragon’s head before stepping into a supremely friendly room with ten taps, a strong bottle line-up and an atmospheric side chamber. (D1) ul. Nowomiejska 11/13,

12on14 Jazz Club Warsaw has a rich tradition of jazz, so you have to sometimes wonder, just where the hell are all the jazz bars? In 12on14’s case, down a courtyard and through a side entrance. Dark, smart and sophisticated, here’s a place that’s fitted out with framed portraits of sax tooting masters as a well-stocked bar area decorated with quotes from jazz legends.

Open from Tuesday till Saturday, evenings see local and international musicians take to the stage. (D6) ul. Noakowskiego 16,

samekrafty.pl

12on14club.com

Spiskowcy Rozkoszy The ground floor is an intimate space with lots of yet-to-be-famous beers and

Hydrozagadka Set out in the wildlands of Praga, consider Hydrozagadka as the heart of unforced

Wilcza 29, goraczka-zlota.com.pl

Hoppiness You’re in good hands here – opened under the patronage of the Pracownia brewery, this small-scale operation goes beyond merely offering the beers of its sponsor.

There’s 12 taps in all, a decent fridge to geek over, an ace burger and beer-based ice cream – hooray! (D4) ul. Chmielna 27/31,

junky, antique furniture that reminds of the Boho hangouts in Kraków. But what was a packed, little bar is now a packed, big bar with the opening of the basement: find a labyrinth of rooms and psychedelic toilets with pulsating lights – you soon wonder who spiked your drink. And oh, the drinks. Expect IPA and APA beers served from the six taps. (D5) ul. Żurawia

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DRINK! Listings cool. Known for its alternative music scene, the low-ceiling and tight, crowded nature of it generate an electrifying atmosphere where the audience and band become one. Walking a fine line between industrial and straight out decrepit, the atmosphere is second to none: drinks flow, strangers meet and music smashes out: you can feel something special happening here. ul. 11 Listopada 22, hydrozagadka.waw.pl

vodka Dom Wódki Those expecting Dom Wódki to be a standard mucky shot bar are in for a surprise.

Sparkling with over 250 artisanal vodkas, find them incorporated into inspirational drinks mixed by Tomasz Małek, a world champion flair bartender. More than just show, the tastes are incredible. (C2) ul.

Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl

Pyk i Łyk Thundering through a flimsy door, customers are met by a tiny, divey area that’s devoid of furnishings aside from shelves of vodka and a bar that’s been painted to depict dripping blood. Yikes!

Decorated with bizarre montages of hard drinking rockers, once visitors settle into their vodka rhythm, it reveals itself as a bar of greatness. “No wi-fi,” shouts one sign, “talk to each other and get drunk.”

It’s that kind of place. (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 26

wine bars Ale Wino!

At first you think you’re walking into a car park. And then, it hits you – a beautiful inner-city sanctum with wooden decking, a slanted sail shielding the sun, and bespoke, funky chairs from the esteemed Studio Rygalik. You want to dwell here for a bit longer than planned: and there’s no harm in doing so. One of the Insider’s favorite wine bars, Ale Wino’s food is also top-notch (E5) ul. Mokotowska 48, alewino.pl Bubbles Despite sounding like a 90s small town nightclub, Bubbles is in fact a worthy place of note: a small, warm venue with

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a slow food menu and a design that incorporates lots of upturned crates and dusty bottles. Champagne is the main draw here, with many labels that are exclusive to Poland. Some come with terrifying prices, but on the whole the price points are widely accessible: wine from zł. 10 and a flute of champers from zł. 29.

(D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, bubbles.com.pl

Dekant Wine Bar Set inside an attractive open space, the opening of Dekant is a further indication of Powiśle’s shift from hipster epicenter to upscale playground (Robert Lewandowski has been spotted here!). The list comprises over 400 wines from the most prestigious producers in the world, right the way down to tiny, little vineyards you’ve probably never heard of. If the sun is out, aim for a place on their back terrace. (E3) ul. Zajęcza 15, dekant.com.pl Dyletanci Often filled to capacity with crisp, modern citizens that radiate confidence, join them on green banquettes illuminated with Tom Dixon lamps. The wine list is fitting of the A-list, and aside from exceptional international choices, also includes interesting wines from the proprietor’s own label – a frankly superb Polish brand called Dom Bliskowice. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44, dyletanci.pl

Enoteka It’s the wine bar New Town has been waiting for ever since… the old Enoteka closed. The eagerly awaited return brings with it a new location – right on the corner of New Town Square and a wine list from curated by importer Maciej Bombol. (D1) Rynek Nowego Miasta 13/15, enotekapolska.pl

Hoża You’ll probably know Hoża as the home of steak. But what is meat without wine? complementing the Argentine-inspired cooking is a wine list particularly dense with reds. (D5) ul. Hoża 25a, hoza.warszawa.pl Kieliszki Na Hożej Already celebrated for their operation on Próżna, this latest branch continues in much the same vein: classy interiors, a prime location on one of Warsaw’s few

surviving pre-war streets and a casual bistro vibe matched up against a glorious Italian influenced wine list. The concise food menu connects local Polish to classic French and adds an interesting modern twist. ul. Hoża 41, kieliszkinahozej.pl Mielżyński Wine Bar Robert Mielżyński, a Canadian-born oenologist, awakened Warsaw’s love affair with the grape when he launched Mielżyński in 2004, and it continues to serve as the accepted benchmark to which all wine bars aspire. Their cause is amply boosted by a fine selection of bites to accompany the superlative wine offer. Find it in a pared down warehouse that emanates casual city cool. (A1) ul.

Burakowska 5/7, mielzynski.pl

Mielzynski Wine Bar After three years in the pipeline Warsaw’s second outpost of Mielżyński is everything you’d expect: the concise menu is never too complex while the exciting wine choice presents over 500 labels. This vibrant warehouse-style space promises much. (G9) ul. Czerska 12, mielzynski.pl

Pani Wina Tucked down an upcoming stretch of Wilcza, the interiors play-up to the pre-war heritage of the building with the elegantly demure decorations anchored around mustard-colored banquettes, olive green walls and immaculate parquet flooring: smart, soothing and even pretty sexy. In rhythm with the times, it’s the first wine bar in Warsaw where bushy beards, tatts and hip, casual fashion are the dominant sight. (E5) ul.

Wilcza 11, fb.com/PaniWina

Rusiko Wine Bar Designed to act as a casual extension of the neighboring Rusiko restaurant, this wine bar showcases Warsaw’s biggest selection of Georgian wine inside an interior that feels intimate, jazzy and highly atmospheric. Elaborate rugs, deep rouge in color, hang from tall sapphire walls, while impossibly high ceilings do much to generate a swirl of soft, muffled sound. A place of good mood and organic hospitality, it’s no surprise to learn that the bitey menu is an ample reflection of Rusiko’s award-winning reputation. (E5) Al. Ujazdowskie 22, fb.com/winebarrusiko

DO!

PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

WARSAW STYLE

Known for his sophisticated yet nonchalant designs, discover Łukasz Jemioł’s flagship store in the heart of Warsaw’s boutique quarter. Utilizing the highest quality fabrics, his contemporary apparel comes in two lines, Premium and Basic. Featuring cashmere coats, wool sweaters, silk shirts and dresses for all occasions, his capital HQ has become the final word in local cool. This season though, market trends dictate that it’s his sloganed sweatshirts that are the ultimate must-have. Łukasz Jemioł ul. Mokotowska 26 (enter from Koszykowa). Also in Łódź (Manufaktura, ul. Karskiego 5), Poznań (Posnania, ul. Pleszewska 1) and Kraków (Pasaż 13, Rynek 13). Also available online at: jemiol.com

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DO! Gift Ideas

Woolly hat by Pompoms, zł. 109 Available at Ptasia 6 (ul. Ptasia 6), ptasia6.pl & pom-poms.pl

‘Handmade With Love’ candle, zł. 330 Available at Viola Śpiechowicz (ul. Chopina 5)

Visor ski helmet and Assari goggles, zł. 439.95 & zł. 199.95 Available at Reguły (ul. Orzeszkowej 1C) and brenda.pl

Unisex tricolor sweatshirt, zł. 449 Available at Łukasz Jemioł (ul. Mokotowska 26), jemiol.com

Black & pink fur slippers, zł. 270 & zł. 290 Available at Loft 37 (ul. Mokotowska 52A), loft73.eu

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Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2017

Leggings, zł. 159 Available at Ptasia 6 (ul. Ptasia 6), ptasia6.pl

DO! Gift Ideas

Bear pendant / bracelet / coin pendant, zł. 10,950 / zł. 2,790 / zł. 990 Available at La Marqueuse (CH Promenada & Klif), lamarqueuse.pl

GIFT GUIDE

Double-breasted jacket & quilted coat by Waterville, zł. 2,990 / zł. 4,900 Available at Balthazar (ul. Mokotowska 64), balthazar.pl

Forget the reindeer jumper, stay stylish this winter with these seasonal must-haves...

Mahogany wood bowtie, zł. 99 Available at Ptasia 6 (ul. Ptasia 6), ptasia6.pl & thebowbowties.com

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Gift ideas for her from Moliera2

Christmas Style!

MAGDALENA IWAŃSKA

Can’t choose from the world’s leading brands?

Then choose a gift card instead!

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Fashion editor, stylist, trendsetter.

Magda creates fashion and lifestyle magazines for Valkea Media and is often involved in Poland’s biggest fashion events, co-operating with and helping style showbiz celebrities.

Tory Burch, zł. 370

Gianvito Rossi, zł. 3,615

Yves Salomon Paris, zł. 615

Christian Louboutin, zł. 3,870

Gift Card zł. 500/1,000/2,000/5,000

Kenzo, zł. 225

Kenzo, zł. 1,080

Tom Ford, zł. 370

Victoria Beckham, zł. 8,155

Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2017

Gift ideas for him from Plac Trzech Krzyży

Moncler, zł. 740

Burberry, zł. 1,600

Tom Ford, zł. 1,050

Valentino, zł. 2,615

Gift Card zł. 500/1,000/2,000/5,000

Polo Ralph Lauren, zł. 1,400

Canada Goose, zł. 530

Tod’s, zł. 680

Christian Louboutin, zł. 6,150 warsawinsider.pl

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DO! Calendar as well as bits and pieces of feline paraphernalia.

For further info, see: pzf.pl F I L M F E S T I VA L

Watch Docs

7-14 Dec @ Kino Muranów (Andersa 5), CSW (Jazdów 1), Kino Antropos (Ethnographic Museum, Kredytowa 1), Iluzjon (Narbutta 50A)

EDITOR’S PICK Targi Rzeczy Ladnych 2-3 Dec @ Pl. Trzech Krzyży 10/14

Specializing in ‘beautiful objects’, this market lives up to the hyperbole with fantastic pieces from on-the-rise brands and designers. Furniture, poster art, textiles, ceramics, books and toys: this has the lot.

CONCERT

Time for Chopin 2 Dec @ ul. Karowa

Running now for over a year, the Time for Chopin initiative presents daily concerts at 6 p.m. inside the Old Gallery of the Association of Polish Art Photographers (Pl. Zamkowy 8). The 50-minute recitals include the composer’s greatest mazurkas, polonaises, waltzes, preludes, etc.

Throughout the month, especially during weekends, find the numerous floors of this building given over to dozens upon dozens of stalls trading in gifts both great and small. Heaven for browsers, the wide-reaching offer runs from books and art to clothing and design pieces. It’s impossible to come away emptyhanded.

For info, see: watchdocs.pl FA I R

Oriental Christmas Bazaar 9 Dec @ Museum of Asia & Pacific, ul. Solec 24

Running from 11 a.m. until 8 p.m. over 40 exhibitors are expected to present an offer ranging from costumes and cosmetics to accessories and artwork. If last year is anything to go by, this diverse event will see stalls hawking goods from India, Indonesia, Japan, China and umpteen countries ending with ‘stan’.

2 Dec @ ul. Karowa

CONCERT

This exhibition is the multithreaded story of this unusual substance. What is blood? What is its role in culture, religion, social life and medicine? All these issues will be raised by the exhibition Blood. Uniting and Dividing at the POLIN Museum of the History of Polish Jews.

FA I R

Dom Towarowy 96

For details, see: barborka.pl PETS

International Cat Show

Julia Marcell 10 Dec @ Teatr Syrena, ul. Litewska 3

This Polish singer-songwriter muddles the boundaries between synth-pop, anti-folk and baroque pop to produce a unique sound to showcase her mastery of the keyboard and piano.

Tickets from zł. 75 @ eventim.pl

2-3 Dec @ Arena Ursynów

Warsaw’s biggest cat show will have all sorts of breeds on display,

Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2017

Morgan James 14 Dec @ ul. Batorego 10, Stodoła

According to the New York Times, Morgan James is “a phenomenal talent whose feel for classic soul music is bone deep!” Fittingly expect tickets to go fast as this New York-based singer-songwriter embarks on a European tour to promote her second studio album, Reckless Abandon.

Tickets from zł. 99 @ livenation.pl FOOD

Vegan Fair 16 Dec @ Myia 3, ul. Mysia 3

Feeding into Warsaw’s appetite for vegan food, this fair will bring together numerous stores, shops, restaurants, producers and assorted brands that class themselves as being vegan friendly.

16-17 Dec @ PKiN, Pl. Defilad 1

till Jan 29 @ POLIN, ul. Anielewicza 6

A vintage rally race around the curly ul. Karowa. Going strong since 1972, it’ll be accompanied by numerous events and stands to keep the fans busy.

CONCERT

9 Dec @ PKiN, Pl. Defilad 1

CARS

Barbórka

For further info, see: slowweekend.pl

FA I R

Market Świąteczny 2

Blood: Uniting and Dividing

EXHIBITION

Up to 350 traders dealing in jewelry, books, cosmetics, clothing and other lifestyle / design oriented essentials will descend on this former printing house for the latest edition of this cult fair.

FA I R

This hugely popular Christmas market will be looking to coral the best Polish designers under one roof with the choice ranging from clothes and jewelry to toys and regional food produce.

For info, see: timeforchopin.com

various events @ Dom Towarowy Bracia Jabłkowscy, ul. Bracka 25

This acclaimed human rights film festival presents more than sixty films from around the world with screenings accompanied by Q&As with filmmakers, debates, lectures and workshops.

9-10 Dec @ ul. Mińska 65

FA I R

Slow Weekend

Mustache Yard Sale Poland’s most talked about yard sale brings together a battalion of independent designers, traders and artists making it the ultimate last minute stocking filler for the more creative-minded. Hugely popular, and rightly so.

For details, see: mustache.pl CONCERT

New Year’s Eve 31 Dec @ PKiN, Pl. Defilad

While further details remained a mystery at press time, Poland’s biggest free party will doubtlessly wheel out numerous national musical heroes, and quite possibly even some international ones as well. Expect tens of thousands to attend.

DO! Calendar

PHOTOGRAPH NAC COLLECTION

Marjan Fuks: 1918-1939

The founder of Poland’s first photographic agency, Marjan Fuks was regarded as ‘the king of Polish photojournalists’, ‘the Napoleon of photography’ and ‘the eye of Warsaw’.

Covering a wide range of topics during his career, his images captured the most important historic events of the time including the fall of the Russian Empire, the war with Bolshevik Russia and Poland’s 1926 coup. Beyond that, his camera was never far away from the loudest scandals of the era! Ongoing till February, this free exhibition documents a unique, thrilling era through the lens of the one of the country’s most celebrated photographers.

DSH ul. Karowa 20, dsh.waw.pl

17.

Międzynarodowy

Festiwal

Filmowy

Organizatorzy:

Warszawa, 7 – 14grudnia, 2017 Współfinansowanie:

www.watch docs.pl

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DO! Education listings preschools American School of Warsaw American School of Warsaw provides a rich, meaningful and balanced educational experience through age-appropriate activities to students aged 3 to 5. For further information and/or to visit our school, contact:admissions@aswarsaw.org or 22 ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel.

22 702 85 00, aswarsaw.org 702

85 00.

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Science, Physical Education, Art, Music & Rhythmics, French and Polish classes. ul.

Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, canadian-school.pl

The British School Early Years Centre The British School provides EYFS classes from Pre-nursery (age 30 months) to Reception (5 years old). Children develop quickly and their Early Years practitioners aim to do all they can to help your child have the best possible start in life and become a lifelong learner. ul. Dąbrowskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646 7777 , thebritishschool.pl

The British Primary School of Wilanów Following the National Curriculum of England and Wales, this is the first School in Poland subject to the inspection of the UK Independent School Inspectorate. Pupils receive British and, upon request, Polish reports/ diplomas. The school follows a closed admissions policy and limits enrollment of one nationality to below 50% of

each class starting from Year 1. ul. Hlonda 12, bsww.pl

The Canadian School of Warsaw Preschool Welcoming students from the ages of 2.5 to 6 years old, currently 45% of their admissions are international students. The dedicated, IB-trained teachers deliver an innovative program (PYP) in English designed for modern world needs. The program offers a combination of Literacy, Maths, Social Studies,

Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2017

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations) Warsaw Montessori School Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have three green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in earlychildhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob.

692 099 134, warsawmontessori. edu.pl

International Trilingual School of Warsaw Established in 1994, the Trilingual School of Warsaw

offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fillimmersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/ saint-exupery.pl

The English Playhouse The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old. For more info or to arrange a tour call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email: jnowak@ theenglishplayhouse.com ul.

Pływiańska 14a, tel. 22 843 9370, tep.edu.pl

DO! Education listings Happy Montessori House The Happy Montessori House offers part-time and full-time places for children aged between 2 to 6 years, as well as toddler-focused activities (from 18 months to 3 years) centered around movement, sensorial stimulation, storytelling, singing and socializing.

Warsaw Montessori Pre-school, ul. Rumiana 14, tel. 22 423 50 75, mob. 697 060 504, hmh.com.pl

Maple Tree Montessori Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological

& healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). ul.

Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, mapletreemontessori.pl

Międzynarodowa Szkoła Podstawowa Argonaut This elementary school is open for children of all nationalities and backgrounds. It places a focus on learning English as well as additional languages, and has an attractive list of available extracurricular activities.ul. Radarowa 6, tel. 504 509 504, argonaut.edu.pl

Montessori Academy for International Children An English-speaking preschool (16 months to 6 years

of age) with two locations.

The school’s policy is to comply with Montessori standards, using the Montessori Method in English. The school’s philosophy is based on the joy of learning, which comes from discovering and furthering the individual development of each child. ul.

Królewicza Jakuba 36 (Wilanów), ul. Sadowa 4 (Konstancin), Open 8:00-16:45, tel. 502 315 022, montessoriacademy.eu

schools American School of Warsaw ASW is a premier collegepreparatory international school that offers a PK-12

curriculum, including the IB Diploma Program in Grades 11 and 12. Students are inspired and challenged every day by experienced and dedicated teachers, who provide enriching learning opportunities in a world class facility. For further information contact: admissions@ aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00. ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, aswarsaw.org

The British Primary School of Wilanów Following the National Curriculum of England and Wales, this is the first School in Poland subject to the inspection of the UK Independent School Inspector-

Celebrating

25 years of

British Education in Warsaw

www.thebritishschool.pl

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DO! Education listings ate. Pupils receive British and, upon request, Polish reports/ diplomas. The school follows a closed admissions policy and limits enrollment of one nationality to below 50% of each class starting from Year 1. ul. Hlonda 12, bsww.pl

The British School Premium international school established in 1992 by Nord Anglia Education. The curriculum is designed to provide the highest academic quality of education. They follow the English National Curriculum, adapted to the needs of their international student community: from Primary through to the Secondary Key Stages to the IGCSE examinations and a

well-established International Baccalaureate (IB) Diploma Program. ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, thebritishschool.pl

ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, warsawmontessori.edu.pl

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations) Warsaw Montessori School Guided by trained specialists, students will be responsible for managing their household, operating small businesses, caring for local flora and fauna as well as domesticated animals, taking charge of the younger children and much more. “Adolescence Program” activities, integrated with academic studies, help students discover their inner strength to meet life’s real challenges.

The English Primary The English Primary is designed specifically for children in the primary education ages, just as children experience in England but in an international community.

Pupils are taken through the key learning stages so that they can achieve to the best of their ability through a fun learning experience. The Core Curriculum subjects include English, Phonics, Science, Mathematics, French, PE and Swimming, Music, Personal,

100 Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2017

Social and Health Education. ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 784 037 808, tep.edu.pl

The Canadian School of Warsaw International Elementary and Middle School Located on two campuses in the Mokotów this is the only authorized IB School with PYP programs taught in English and Polish. French is taught as a third language. Offers a wide range of extra activities, a summer school, and employs a full time psychologist. Provision is made for additional Polish and English support.

International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create the

DO! Education listings perfect learning environment. ul. Bełska 7, tel. 692 411 573 / 885 420 044, secretary@canadianschool.pl or secretary.olimpijska@ canadian-school.pl

International Trilingual School of Warsaw Established in 1994, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and

pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fillimmersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel.

501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16,

tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/saint-exupery.pl

Monnett International School Located in Mokotów, the Monnett is the only school in Poland that implements the International Baccalaureate Program from kindergarten level all the way through to secondary school. The fullyqualified staff are committed

to delivering only the highest standards of education. ul.

Stępińska 13, tel. 22 852 06 08, maturamiedzynarodowa.pl

Warsaw Montessori School Focuses on the Montessori curriculum with an education based on the integration of conceptual learning and real-life experiences. ul.

Szwoleżerów 4, tel. 22 841 3908, warsawmontessori.edu.pl

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DO! Health & Beauty listings gyms Artis Wellness Club Found in Royal Wilanów, this state-of-the-art gym boasts the latest technological advances in personal fitness, as well as a massive program of courses that range from group cycling and yoga to Zumba and body combat. ul.

Klimczaka 1 (Royal Wilanów), artisclub.pl

Holmes Place Energy High standard equipment, personal training and group classes. Six month membership available for approx. zł.

200 per month, though prices are subject to change. Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (C.H. Arkadia), ul.

Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), holmesplace.pl

Holmes Place Premium Three ‘premium locations’, with the Hilton and Regent branches housing a 25-meter pool. Sauna and steam room facilities are available in all all three, as are a varied timetable of classes plus personal training. ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel), ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), holmesplace.pl

Little Gym Targeted at children, expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-tochild ratio, original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. ul. Bruzdowa 56, thelittlegym.pl

McFit A 2,000 sq/m studio that utilizes the latest technology as well as ‘cyber training’ programs. Open 24/7, with membership from zł. 89 per month. ul. Świętokrzyska 3 (corner of Nowy Świat), mcfit.com

Quantum Fitness A place of quiet, understated

luxury, equipment is state-ofthe-art and complemented by expert trainers at the peak of their game. This is the full 24-carat gym experience. ul. Piękna 15, quantumpiekna.pl

Ride Warsaw Group cycling classes overseen by a team of English-speaking instructors.

This is not a leisurely Sunday pedal, but a high energy workout with a banging soundtrack and constant interaction. ul. Karolkowa 30, ridewarsaw.com

RiverView Wellness Centre Top-class facilities and equipment, private instructors and small classes. The view from the highest pool in Europe offers a glorious panorama of the city and is almost worth the membership fee alone.

Annual prices begin from around zł. 4,000. ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental), riverview.com.pl

hair & beauty Hair a Porter A staunch favorite among the ex-pat crowd, Hair a Porter offer the ultimate hair experience utilizing talented staff and topquality products. ul.

Belwederska 23 (Regent, level -1), hair-a-porter.pl

Le Spa This little island of peace and beauty takes you light-years away from the bustle of Warsaw. ul. Mokotowska 55

spas & salons

ouch!

DEPILACJA WOSKIEM

Ouch!

Experts in waxing, Ouch! aim their offer at ‘busy women looking for express treatments with lasting effects who, at the same time, appreciate a sense of intimacy’. ul. Belwederska 32; ul.

Bonifraterska 8, ouch.pl

PARDON MY FRENCH

manicure pedicure

Pardon My French Manicure and pedicure treatments with high quality lacquers and an awareness of the lastest global trends: if you need an endorsement, Paul McCartney visited when he was in Poland! ul.

Belwederska 32; Bonifraterska 8; ul. Mokotowska 56, ul. Wilcza 3. pardonmyfrench.pl

The Pedicure Place A luxury pedi/manicure clinic with room for 10. All the latest OPI varnishes and over 200 colors guarantee you’ll find the latest in styling and nail care. ul. Pokorna 2, pedicureplace.pl

Quantum Clinic Using first class, pioneering methods and technology, the Quantum Clinic surpasses the norms that Warsaw has become used to. ul. Piękna 15, quantumpiekna.pl

swimming

Nail & Beauty Bar A top spot for a classic manicure or pedicure – they also do lots of complicated things with gels and other hi-tech nail discoveries. ul.

Holmes Place Premium All the ‘premier’ outposts of Holmes Place tout swimming pools, though most agree it is the one in the Hilton branch that’s the best. ul. Belwederska

Mokotowska 26

23 (Regent Hotel), ul. Grzybowska

102 Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2017

63 (Hilton), Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), holmesplace.pl

RiverView Wellness Centre Another members only pool, and this one is really worth the membership cost – it’s the highest pool in Europe. Stunning views of Warsaw make this a swim to remember. ul.

Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental), riverview.com.pl

accessories Anacomito Luxurious-looking waist bags make for fashion that’s both modern and logical. More so, it makes the outsized bags of yesteryear increasingly redundant. anacomito.com

Bursztynek The largest amber jewelry store in Warsaw, though in addition to that visitors can also purchase unique amberrelated souvenirs as well as more classic gifts associated with Poland. Rynek Starego Miasta 4/6, bursztynek.co

Duo Optyk Glasses and shades from brands such as Ray-Ban, Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Chanel, Chloe and Hugo Boss.

Online ordering available. ul.

Krucza 47a, eokulary.pl, brenda.pl

Hard Rock Cafe No wardrobe is complete without the iconic Hard Rock t-shirt! Find the Warsawstamped version available here, along with other extras for the all American look. Złote Tarasy, hardrockcafe.pl

Schubert Rings, bracelets, necklaces and watches produced using the finest Baltic amber. Or

DO! Shopping Listings for a unique gift, how about an amber chess set or an amber cigarette lighter? ul.

Piwna 12/14, ul. Piwna 26, ul. Świętojańska 11, worldofamber.pl

fashion Moliera 2 Boutique Brands include: Alexandre Birman, Alexandre Vauthier, Anya Hindmarch, Aquazzura, Balmain, Beach Bunny, Buscemi, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Francesco Russo, Gianvito Rossi, Herve Leger, Isabel Marant, Jimmy Choo, Kenzo, Kotur, Maison Michel, Moncler, One Teaspoon, Simonetta Ravizza, Tod’s, Tory Burch, Valentino, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon. ul.

Moliera 2, moliera2.com

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Brands include: Beach Bunny, Buscemi, Canada Goose, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Dsquared 2, Christian Louboutin, Fay, Gianvito Rossi, Hogan, Kenzo, Kotur, Moncler, Mr& Mrs Italy, One Teaspoon, Ralph Lauren, Simonetta Ravizza, Tom Ford, Tory Burch, Valentino, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon. Childrenswear: Burberry Children, Dsquared2 Kids, Kenzo Kids, Moncler Kids, Ralph Lauren Kids, Tod’s Kids. Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, plactrzechkrzyzy. com

Viola Śpiechowicz Inspiring, unpretentious and highly creative, Viola Śpiechowicz reinvisions what

it means to be feminine by giving classic styles a progressive edge – choose from limited pret a porter collection and exclusive haute couture creations. ul. Chopina 5B, violaspiechowicz.com

home Porcelanowa Award-winning, contemporary Polish porcelain produced by cult, internationally recognized brands such as Aoomi and Fenek. ul. Kredytowa 2, porcelanowa.com

Reset Point A treasure trove of renovated antique furniture, vinyl clocks, 70s style handle-less PRL mugs and modern art prints

of legendary landmarks such as Dworzec Centralny and the Palace of Culture. ul. Puławska 48 sklep.resetpoint.pl

Secret Life (of Things) An ‘eco lifestyle concept store’ full of bio-friendly scents, cosmetics, hand-made trinkets and housewares, rustic furnishings and detox teas. Check the prestigious porcelain by Kristoff or stock up on Madara cosmetics. ul.

Dąbrowskiego 15A, secretlife.pl

SH Studio Art, interior design and furniture are married together inside a tiny store stacked with beautiful antique and retro pieces that have been refurbished and redesigned to lend them a contemporary edge. ul. Wilcza 44, s-h-studio.pl

The Amber Heart of Warsaw

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103

DO! Accomodation Listings 5-Star Hotels

mamaison.com

Mecure Warszawa Centrum

Chmielna Guesthouse

Marriott

ul. Złota 48/54, tel. 22 697 3999, mercure.com

ul. Chmielna 13, tel. 22 828 1282, chmielnabb.

Mercure Grand Warszawa

relocation companies

Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 6306, warsawmarriott.com

Bellotto ul. Senatorska 13/15, tel. 22 829 6444, hotelbellotto.pl

Regent Warsaw Hotel ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, reservations@regentwarsaw.com, regent-warsaw.com

Bristol Hotel ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1000, hotelbristolwarsaw.pl

Sheraton ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6100, sheraton.pl

ul. Krucza 28, tel. 22 583 2100, mercure.com

Courtyard by Marriott Hotel (Airport) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 0100, warszawacourtyard.pl

Novotel Warszawa Centrum H15 Boutique

Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel

ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 553 8700, info@h15ab.com, h15ab.com

ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888, radissonblu.com/hotelwarsaw

ul. Marszałkowska 94/98, tel.

22 596 0000, novotel.com, accorhotels.com

ul. Julianowska 37, Piaseczno, agsmovers.com

CorstJens Worldwide Movers Group ul. Nowa 23, Stara Iwiczna, corstjens.com

Express Relocations Polonia Palace Hotel Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. 22 318 2800, poloniapalace.com

Hilton Warsaw

AGS Warsaw

ul. Szyszkowa 35/37, expressrelocations.com

ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555 / 800 44 11 482, hilton.com

Sofitel Warsaw Victoria

Warsaw Plaza Hotel

Euro Move International Movers

Indigo

ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8011, sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com

ul. Łączyny 5, tel. 885 886 100, warsawplazahotel.pl

ul. Kineskopowa 1, Piaseczno, euromove.pl

ul. Smolna 40, tel. 22 418 89 00, indigowarsaw.com

Westin

b&b

InterContinental

Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, westin.pl

Between Us Bed & Breakfast

4-star hotels

ul. Bracka 20, tel. 22 8285417 (from 10 a.m. to 11p.m.), betweenus.eu

Radisson Blu Sobieski

Boutique B&B

pl. Zawiszy 1, tel. 22 579 1000, sobieski.com.pl

ul. Smolna 14/6, tel. 22 829 4800, bedandbreakfast.pl

ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, warsaw.intercontinental. com

Mamaison Le Régina Hotel Warsaw ul. Kościelna 12, tel. 22 531 6000,

Interdean International Relocation ul. Geodetów 172, Piaseczno, tel.

22 701 7171, interdean.com

Move One Relocations Also immigration assistance,

w W a r s a www.city-tour.com.pl

Yellow Double-Decker Bus

Invites you to experience a panoramic tour of tourist attractions of the capital of Poland, Warsaw, in a relaxing and comfortable way.

Traveling over the course of approximately 1,5 hour, a double-decker bus will take you past many beautiful and interesting places of Warsaw, such as its interesting districts, palaces and churches, monuments and museums, parks and historical cemeteries, as well as the Jewish historical sites.

A GPS 12 language audio-guide, will give explanations and accompany you to make your ride a more adventurous, exciting and an unforgettable one.

Excellent Hop on Hop off and one trip service operates every day all year round.

5% DISCOUNT with this ad

Line approved by municipal authorities.

www.city-tour.com.pl

104 Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2017

+48 500 033 414

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Or maybe just refreshing the look of your flat?

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DO! Services Listings fine art shipping, pet transport and consulting services. ul. Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 8160, moveonerelo.com

Relo Planet International, domestic and office removals, corporate and individual relocations, fine art shipping, storage, insurance, as well as a full range of assistance services (immigration, etc.). ul. Batalinou Platerówek 3, reloplanet.com

services Domestina Four-hour maid solutions ranging from zł. 129-142.

Offering full service, they’ll make your bed to match the

standard of a five-star hotel, and clean every corner till your flat is spotless! Order and pay online via their Englishlanguage website. domestina.pl

together ‘global minds’. Check their web for news on their monthly meetings and mixers.

storage

International Women’s Group of Warsaw Unites expat women in Warsaw and offers cultural, educational and recreational activities. Meetings are held on the second and fourth Monday of the month. iwgwarsaw.com

Więcej Miejsca Offers innovative, convenient, door-to-door storage & moving services. Order via their website or phone and the company’s driver will deliver sturdy plastic, tamper-proof bins for storing items such as clothes, books, documents, etc.

Tel. 733 002 014, wiecejmiejsca.pl

networking InterNations Drawing professionals from home and abroad the mission of InterNations is to bring

internations.org

Mums & Tots A volunteer group for mums (and dads) of all nationalities – coffee mornings, play groups, art and music classes and nights out for parents; the list is endless. mumsandtots.pl Professionals in Warsaw New to town? There’s few better ways to give your social

life a jump start than popping along to one of the informal drinks mixers conducted by Professionals in Warsaw – all you have to do is buy your own drinks. fb.com/ProfessionalsInWarsaw

Toastmasters International Toastmasters is the international organization for improving public speaking and presentation skills. The local club meets every Wednesday at 19.00. toastmasters.org.pl

Warsaw Social Helping expats integrate with the locals, Warsaw Social has grown to become the biggest and most active events group in Warsaw: not just drinks, but also games nights, defense classes, quizzes, etc. warsawsocial.com

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105

DO! Museums F RY D E RY K C H O P I N M U S E U M

Car Museum From Lech Wałesa’s Volvo to Gomułka’s ZIS limo, from German wartime armor to a pretty-in-pink Buick Skylark: incredible in its peculiarity, the random layout, oily smells and cobwebbed corners only add to the sense of treading somewhere special. ul. Warszawska 21 (Otrębusy), muzuem-motorzyacji.com.pl

Copernicus Science Centre Featuring hundreds of interactive exhibitions, it’s a place that allows young and old alike to blast objects into space, experience an earthquake or steer exploratory robots. ul.

Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, kopernik.org.pl

CSW Situated in a baroque-style castle the center hosts artists from all over the world.

The on-site bookshop is of particular interest for artists and intellectuals. ul. Jazdów 2, csw.art.pl

Dom Spotkań z Historią The History Meeting House wins points for small but frequently excellent exhibitions that cover topics such as ‘rebuilding Warsaw’ and

‘Socialist Realist architecture.’

M U S E U M O F WA R S AW

ul. Okólnik 1, chopin.museum

ul. Karowa 20, dsh.waw.pl

Ethnographic Museum Considerably revamped to meet the demands and attention-spans of the 21st century sightseer, the Ethnographic Museum is a visual pleasure that showcases colorful costumes, fabrics and ceramics from Poland and beyond. ul. Kredytowa 1,

The Heritage Interpretation Center This small venue tells the complex story of Old Town’s reconstruction: if the first section about Warsaw’s physical elimination is poignant, then the others do a fabulous job of sharing the optimism and alacrity that followed. ul.

Brzozowa 11-13, mhw.pl

ethnomuseum.pl

Fotoplastikon Thought to date from 1905, Warsaw’s Fotoplastikon generates 3D perspectives from a set of 2D images: visitors peer through an eyepiece and are taken on a trip around the world while music from days yore parps away in the background. Al. Jerozolimskie 51, fotoplastikonwarszawski.pl

Fryderyk Chopin Museum The 18th century Ostrogski Palace is the perfect foil for the ultra-modern content of this multi-sensory space. The personal items are enchanting, but the big victory here is the museum’s ability to suck visitors right back into the times of Chopin through the use of interactive sights and sounds.

106 Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2017

Invisible Exhibition Head to the Invisible Exhibition to learn first-hand the challenges faced by the blind.

This includes everything from crossing the road to ordering a drink in a bar. Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, niewidzialna.pl

Jewish Historical Institute Officially opened in 1947 the Jewish Historical Institute was created to serve as an archive of Jewish culture in Warsaw. It contains artwork, historical artifacts and important documents from the city’s rich Jewish past. ul.

spring of 1940. Beyond its quite staggering architectural merit, the museum has done a stunning job of collecting and presenting artifacts relating to the slaughter. ul. Jeziorańskiego 4, muzeumkatynskie.pl

Marie Skłodowska-Curie Musuem Reopened after a significant re-haul, this museum celebrates the groundbreaking scientist that discovered polonium. The Curie-osities include lab equipment, her trademark black dress and even her nail file. ul. Freta 16, en.muzeum-msc.pl

Museum of Communist Life Lovingly assembled by its young owner, the museum is split into a few different sections: one devoted to state and subversive literature, and another that recreates an empty store typical of the times. Our highlight, though, is the recreation of a commie-era apartment. ul.

Tłomackie 3/5, jhi.pl

Glucha (opposite Soho Factory), adventurewarsaw.com

Katyń Museum This museum commemorates the murder of 21,000 Polish officers by the Soviets in the

Museum of Praga The Praga Museum tells the story of the area with such charm and simplicity that it

DO! Museums Z AC H Ę TA N AT I O N A L A R T GA L L E RY

manages to leave an unlikely impression that’s as punchy as that of the big institutions.

Star billing goes to a restored Jewish prayer room and the Flying Carpet: an exhibit festooned with various trinkets and treasures once available for purchase from local pavement traders. ul. Targowa 50/52, muzeumwarszawy.pl

Museum of Warsaw Over 8,000 objects detail the story of Warsaw, and these include peculiar souvenirs, scale models, old postcards and recovered works of art.

Cohesive and comprehensive yet never too overwhelming, the trail climaxes with vertiginous views of the Rynek below. Unmissable.

ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org

Palmiry National Memorial Museum An excellent multimedia exhibition set next to a cemetery holding the graves of 1,700 Poles executed in the first years of Nazi occupation.

The museum tells their forgotten story as well as that of the siege and subsequent occupation of Warsaw. Palmiry, palmiry.mhw.pl

each covers a different stage of local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day. Highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec synagogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical inter-war Jewish Warsaw street. Named the European Museum of the Year in 2016. ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl

The Royal Castle in Warsaw Highlights include the lavishly restored 18th century royal apartments with 22 paintings

by Canaletto, the Senators’ Chamber in which the Constitution of the Third of May was signed, the biggest collection of oriental rugs in Europe and two remarkable Rembrandt paintings. Pl. Zamkowy 4,

National Museum Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars. Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.

Pawiak What was once a Tsarist prison assumed a doubly sinister function under the Nazis. Some 100,000 Polish political prisoners were held here, 37,000 of which were executed on-site. Split in two sections, cells are found on one side, while on the other the full story of the invasion and occupation. ul. Dzielna

art.pl

24/26

4/6, bursztynek.co

The Neon Museum Filled with salvaged signage,

Polin Composed of eight galleries,

Warsaw Rising Museum Cope with the crowds to

Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42, muzeumwarszawy.pl

this museum houses several dozen neons that once lit up the capital. The emphasis is firmly on the PRL era, a time when the nation’s best graphic designers were nutty for neon.

THE NEON MUSEUM

zamek-krolewski.pl

discover the definitive story of the 1944 Uprising. Exhibits range from a full-size replica of a Liberator plane, to a sewer beneath the cinema screen and a slice of bread preserved from 1944. And don’t miss the ‘City of Ruins’, a five minute 3D film which takes you on an aerial journey over devastated Warsaw. ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl Wola Museum What was once a dreary old place has been rebooted as a smart community-minded museum and one of the most forward-thinking institutions in the capital. Bringing the wider area of Wola alive, find engaging content that’s creatively presented: posters, family memorabilia and various media relating to the area. ul.

Srebrna 12, mhw.pl

The Warsaw Amber Museum Part of Bursztynek, a dedicated amber shop, has been turned into a curious museum detailing the history of amber. Rynek Starego Miasta

Zachęta National Art Gallery Regarded as one of Poland’s most prestigious galleries, the Zachęta has a busy program of temporary exhibitions that frequently showcase some of the biggest names in domestic and international contemporary art. Pl. Małachowskiego 3, zacheta.art.pl warsawinsider.pl

107

Warsaw Guide

THE ESSENTIALS...

Cut through the chaff and time manage your visit as effectively as possible.

COMMUNISM

A full tour of Stalin’s Palace of Culture is a must: the basements are wild and the viewing terrace unimpeachable. Check the more ambient side to Communism in the Neon Museum and then visit The Museum of Life Under Communism: it’s tiny, but humorous, eccentric and highly informative. While you’re there, squeeze into a knackered militia wagon and take one of their commie-themed tours. Equally weird, check out a former nuclear bunker by visiting the once top secret Obiekt Alfa (obiektalfa.pl).

MODERN WARSAW

THE OLD…

The Old Town, raised from the rubble after WWII, is symbolic of this ‘phoenix city’, and fully deserving of its UNESCO listed status. In the square, the Museum of Warsaw is a great primer to the city, while the Royal Castle is a maze of fancy chambers and important paintings by the likes of Rembrandt and Canaletto. To soak in the extravagances of Poland’s imperial years, then Łazienki Park is essential, as is a visit to the Wilanów Palace: frequently termed as being ‘the Polish Versailles’, the gardens are illuminated each winter and are a surreal, entrancing experience.

WWII

Memories of WWII still hang heavy.

Learn about the 1944 Warsaw Uprising

108 Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2017

at The Rising Museum: it’s deservedly rated as among the most important cultural institutions in the country.

The Old Town’s ‘Heritage Centre’ documents the destruction of the city, while three separate museums, Pawiak, Szucha and Katyń, cover equally somber moments in Poland’s dark history.

JEWISH WARSAW

Though largely flattened, the former Jewish Ghetto contains numerous memorials, among them the Umschlagplatz installation that commemorates the deportations to Treblinka. The one synagogue that survived (Twarda 6) is the center of local Jewish life, while the innovative Polin covers all aspects of this nation’s complex and often fraught Jewish history.

ART

Serious art lovers flock to the National Museum for its determined presentation of art through the ages. The Zachęta, the Modern Art Museum and CSW are more alternative with captivating exhibitions that thrill non-conformists. That said, some of the city’s best art is found on its walls: Praga and Muranów are particularly known for their giant wall murals.

PEOPLE

Chopin, the city’s favorite son, looms large across Warsaw: the museum dedicated to his memory amazes by the breadth of its scope. Now reopened following a thorough refit, the Marie Curie Museum in New Town does a splendid job of remembering the world’s most famous female science boffin.

PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

M U R A L S O F P R AGA

Wonder amid romping kids and whirring machines in the Copernicus Science Centre, and after take in the glorious dusk views on the rooftop garden of the University Library.

Across the river, the state-of-the-art National Stadium conducts regular tours, while Dom Kereta – dubbed the world’s narrowest house – occasionally hold open days (fb.com/domkereta).

7

1 5 8 4 9 6

2

Stadion Narodowy

9 Żaryna

Kulskiego

Chodk iewicza

Biały K amień

8 7 6

3 5 4 3 2 1

Insider Finds

LET THERE BE LIGHT!

A religious treasure recovered from the ruins of the Ghetto finds its way to POLIN...

Brought out for the duration of Hanukkah, and placed prominently in the front window of Jewish homes, the typical Hanukkiyah consists of eight stems plus a ninth one for a shamash candle used to light the others.

Often adorned with traditional Jewish motifs, the ritual of illuminating this candelabra plays a central role to this ancient festival.

Discovered in the rubble of the Warsaw Ghetto in April, 1945, the Hanukkiyah in the possession of POLIN, the Museum of the History of Polish Jews, was sold after the war to Danuta Mniewska-Dejmek who in turn donated it to the museum’s collection in 2008. Produced by the Warsaw-based Fraget factory, the shamash has long since disappeared, as has the the jug-shaped dish once used to hold olive oil. Nonetheless, the sheer level of its intricate detailing, not to mention its signature pair of peacocks, make this an incredibly rare and valued artifact.

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF POLIN

POLIN, Museum Of The History Of Polish Jews ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl

112 Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2017