Warsaw Insider August 2017 #252

• Uprising: Then & Now • Nightlife: Oleandrów Crawl • Love: Hungarian Style!

• Travel: Łódź

Warsaw The Capital’s Original City Magazine Since 1996

AUGUST 2017

Summer of Lody

252 08/2017

INDEKS 334901 ISSN:1643-1723

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ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER ALEXANDRE BIRMAN ANYA HINDMARCH AQUAZZURA BALMAIN BUSCEMI CASADEI CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN ELIE SAAB FRANCESCO RUSSO GIANVITO ROSSI HERVE LEGER ISABEL MARANT KENZO KOTUR LORO PIANA MAISON MICHEL MANOLO BLAHNIK ONETEASPOON SELF – PORTRAIT TOD’S TORY BURCH VICTORIA BECKHAM YVES SALOMON

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editorial INFRONT

Editor-in-chief Alex Webber

4 Take a Number 6 News 10 Interview:

insider@warsawinsider.pl Art Director Kevin Demaria insider@warsawinsider.pl

Jan Strumiłło

Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com

FEATURES

16 Uprising Talking

Contributors: Stuart Dowell Maria Mileńko Michał Miszkurka Ed Wight

Points 20 Uprising Photography

PARTNER SPOTLIGHT

EAT!

31 Meat Warsaw 32 Zielnik 34 Vegetarian

Warsaw 36 Ice Cream

DRINK!

71 Etno Cafe 72 Oleandrów

DO!

89 Hungarian Love 92 Outdoor Film 94 Calendar 108 Guide: Essentials 109 Guide: The Buzz 110 Map 112 Insider Finds

Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com Business Development Manager A. Julita Pryzmont jpryzmont@valkea.com

I

s it too early to be thinking of New Year’s resolutions? Probably so, but that hasn’t stopped me from doing just that. First on the list, no more lazy weather predictions on this opening page. Just last month you’d have found me writing energetically gushing about the glories of ‘the big summer sizzle’. Of course, it didn’t quite work out like that. On the occasions it wasn’t being lashed by storms, Warsaw found itself dripping glumly under a damp gray pall. So from now own, I’m leaving the meteorological stuff to the professionals and instead turning my forecasts to subjects of food, drink, culture and lifestyle: in fact, the very pillars this magazine is founded on. As such, it feels apt then that much of our content this issue focuses on what’s coming good: we cast a spotlight on veganism, a trend that appears to have no ceiling. Elsewhere, we’ve visited Oleandrów, the street of tomorrow, and also survived a trip to Łódź – Central Europe’s next cauldron of cool? Neither, however, have we forgotten the present or the past: inside we reveal the top ice cream stops in Warsaw, check a bewilderingly cool exhibition and take a pause to reflect on the anniversary of the Warsaw Uprising. As ever, I hope you enjoy it and see you next month.

Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl on the cover Ice cream season is on! We’ve picked out the cream of the crop on. p. 36. (Illustration by Michał Miszkurka

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ey Account Manager K Agata Sicińska asicinska@valkea.com ey Account Manager K Piotr Pawłowski ppawlowski@valkea.com Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com Subscription 12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland.

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All information ©2017 Warsaw Insider.

PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT

25 The latest marketplace news from the Warsaw Insider’s friends and advertisers

AUGUST 2017

CASADEI CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN MEN FAY GIANVITO ROSSI MEN KENZO MONCLER ONE TEASPOON RALPH LAUREN TOD’S TORY BURCH VALENTINO VICTORIA BECKHAM BURBERRY CHILDREN DSQUARED2 KIDS KENZO KIDS MONCLER KIDS

number take a

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The number of reasons given by The Telegraph to visit Warsaw – now!

These included ‘an unexpected number of doughnuts’, ‘epic parks’, ‘hipster hideouts’ and ‘hearty fare’: “By all means go into a restaurant serving traditional Polish food and order a pork knuckle,” warned Hugh Morris, “but you better go in hungry.”

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the strength of winds that tore through Warsaw...

A flash storm ripped through Warsaw at the tail end of June, uprooting hundreds of trees and leaving dozens of cars damaged. Despite lasting little more than ten minutes, the gale left a trail of devastation and over 65,000 homes in the Mazowiecka district temporarily without electricity. Across Poland over 48,000 firefighters were involved in dealing with over 10,000 call-outs related to the storms. Incredibly, no deaths were reported.

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The age of Rotem Bides...

An Israeli student that figured she was immune to Auschwitz’s strict rules on theft: her haul of swag, which she later presented as part of an art project in her home country, included a sign warning visitors about pinching items. “I felt it was something I had to do,” she later announced.

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News Briefs

OFF THE WALL The anniversary of the beginning of the 1944 Warsaw Uprising (August 1st) has again seen a surge in commemorative murals being revealed around town. The more noticeable include a 160 sq/m artwork splashed on the side of Płocka 41, as well as a mural running along the wall outside Polonia’s stadium. Covering an area of 250 sq/m, and costing approximately zł. 25,000, the location is by no means incidental: the stadium was the stage for fierce fighting as Polish insurgents looked to forge a link between Żoliborz and the Old Town.

The action, which took place on August 21st, 1944, ultimately failed and resulted in the massacre of twelve Home Army troops.

Animal Rights (And Wrongs) Rectors at Wrocław University have sent a memo to prospective students warning them against using Snapchat animal filters in ID photos attached to their application forms. The appeal comes after the university was flooded with applications that included holiday snaps, selfies and superimposed animal features.

“These are not suitable for identification purposes,” read the reminder.

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CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT; SHUTTERSTOCK, ALEX WEBBER, KEVIN DEMARIA

PLANE STUPID

Residents of Warsaw were outraged after a passenger plane was left parked on Pl. Defilad. Initial shock turned to horror after rumors began circulating that the plane’s owner planned on opening a tacky snack bar inside. The city has moved quickly to allay fears that the plane is here to stay and has begun proceedings to remove the illegal eyesore; however, inside sources have admitted that it could be a matter of weeks, possibly even months, till the aircraft is finally hauled away.

News Briefs

THEY CAME FROM OUTSIDE POLAND...

Two high profile foreign visits saw the Polish capital grind to a halt and thrust under a global spotlight...

TOOTING OF THE TRUMP

Though hailed a success in some quarters, Donald Trump’s fleeting Warsaw visit wasn’t completely without controversy: his speech, while full of bravado, has been condemned by many for failing to make any reference to Poland’s own lurch towards authoritarian rule. ‘The Donald’ also found himself irking the nation’s Jewish community after becoming the first US President to choose against visiting the Monument of the Heroes of the Jewish Ghetto Uprising. However, not all the faux-pas were one-way: Poland’s first lady, Agata KornhauserDuda, caused widespread hilarity after she appeared to snub the out-stretched hand of a peeved-looking Donald. A video of the moment quickly went viral, prompting President Duda to issue a cry to “fight fake news.”

THE ROYAL TREATMENT

SHUTTERSTOCK

The Duke and Duchess of Cambridge (a.k.a Wills & Kate) charmed the country over the course of a two-day visit to Warsaw and Gdańsk. Staying at the Belevdere Palace, the royal couple’s Warsaw schedule included a tour of The Rising Museum, a meeting with young entrepreneurs at the Spire, and a garden party in Łazienki Park held to mark the occasion of the Queen’s birthday. Having greeted guests in Polish, William’s speech at the event then went on to champion Poland’s “courage, fortitude and bravery,” as well as including “the warmest good wishes” of both the Queen and Prince Philip.

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Interview

architect Jan Strumiłło speaks to the Insider about his hopes and fears for the city...

Architecturally, how would you summarize Warsaw?

Warsaw is a large organism with many different parts that have been developed at different speeds to each other. But anyone who understands Warsaw will realize that the city is an ongoing story of missed opportunities. Good things happen, but so too do bad things.

You see new blocks being built without any regard for common sense and it feels like people are just repeating the same mistakes of old. The Danish architect Jan Gehl was once asked what mistakes Warsaw can avoid making in the future and he simply said, “well, there aren’t any mistakes you can avoid because you’ve made them all already.”

How do you mean?

There’s a ‘civilizational gap’ between Polish cities and those in the ‘west’.

The kind of buildings you once saw being built – and now being torn down – in Western Europe were never built here. But rather than learning from the errors that western architects made a couple of decades ago we’re actually now repeating them.

There are other frustrations as well. The riverside is undergoing an unprecedented renaissance. It’s a unique asset. Over the past few years we’ve seen things like the surrounding highway broadened and sound-absorbing barriers introduced. But these are just attempts to fix a fundamentally flawed concept – instead, we need to be looking at diverting traffic away. The

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Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2017

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Architect’s Eye Responsible for some of the edgiest projects found in modern Warsaw,

Interview

ABOVE AND BELOW: LUKULLUS, UL. CHMIELNA 32

The Wisła though has a lot going for it?

My dream is that one day I’ll see a time where I can take a dip in the waters – I’ve actually done so before, further upstream, but I wouldn’t dare do so again at this moment in time. The state of the water is improving year by year and I’d love to see more people being able to kayak, swim, fish and generally enjoy it. I used to live in Switzerland and it was interesting to see Basel’s relationship with the Rhine. Now that’s a ‘serious river’ with lots of industrial barges going up and down, yet it’s still been developed in a way that the public can enjoy it.

The same goes for Zurich where the Limmat River

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Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2017

has become a fantastic attraction. I believe the Wisła has the same incredible potential.

One of the great aspects of the Wisła is its ‘natural wildness’. Are you concerned this might be lost?

There’s the famous story about a Japanese delegation taking one look at the undeveloped part of the Wisła and asking how many millions the city had spent landscaping it. I think to ruin it would take too much money and effort so I don’t think we’ll see this happen, but then again as a designer I’m inclined to always imagine positive outcomes!

Optimism aside, there must be things that worry you about Warsaw and the wider area?

I’m concerned about all those old buildings you get along ‘the Otwock line’. I used to live in one of these wooden houses so I’m familiar with their charm

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JAKUB CERTOWICZ; RENDERING BY JAN STRUMIŁŁO

fact people aren’t shows a lack of understanding of the problems Warsaw faces. Warsaw has big underlying issues that can’t be solved with cosmetic changes.

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Interview

That’s not the only thing we’re losing – more and more modernist works are being demolished as well…

I hate seeing these ripped down especially when there are more pressing changes that should be made. When you redecorate a house, you need to plan properly: you don’t just destroy the most valuable elements inside and then replace them with

READER’S CABIN, TEMP. INSTALLATION

something of inferior quality. To me it doesn’t make sense that we’re preserving horrible apartment blocks that are falling apart yet knocking things down that have the potential to become real assets.

The eyesores are prevalent…

For me the grimmest period for Polish architecture was the 80s. During the first couple of decades under Communism our buildings were still being designed by pre-war architects, or at least those educated during that time. But by the 70s and 80s these were replaced by a new wave of architects who produced nightmares: big industrial blocks that ignored how a city should function. To me, I see these blocks as enormous termite colonies.

They don’t need minor improvements such as a lick of paint, they demand a radical solution. Of course, that radicalism always has to be counter-balanced with common sense.

When looking for solutions, which places inspire you?

Amsterdam and Copenhagen have shown how dramatically life can improve if you give cyclists priority, but I think there’s no way Warsaw will ever be able to imitate those and become such a carefree city. Instead, it’s more valid to look at cities that are closer to ours in terms of climate and latitude. With that in mind, Helsinki is a city we should really look towards for inspiration.

How do you interpret the city’s attitude towards public space?

The contrast between public and non-public spaces is how we define cities, so

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RECTO/VERSO, AL. NIEPODLEGŁOŚCI 213 PHOTO BY JAN DYBOWSKI; RENDERINGS & ISOMETRIC DRAWINGS BY JAN STRUMIŁŁO

and particular style – unfortunately, most people don’t see the value in them.

Instead, they’re being torn down or left to rot, in some cases people are even burning them down. But if we’re not careful, these treasures will all disappear.

Info: janstrumillo.com

WONDERS BY GALILU, UL. MOKOTOWSKA 26

first we need to ask what is non-public space? The problem Warsaw has is that it was given too much public space by its post-war designers, something that meant it’s now too thinly spread with buildings scattered way too loosely. Look around, we’ve got so many undefined bits of greenery that are just used as places for dogs to crap, or squares that are used as car parks.

Our public space has become disorganized, dysfunctional space – we need to reduce this space, while

at the same time increasing its overall quality.

Which districts don’t you like?

Muranów horrifies me the most: the way it was built on top of the ruins of the Ghetto showed a complete disregard for the past. It’s almost as if they deliberately wanted to obliterate the memory of what came before. While it might become a hip area in the future, I think it’s impossible to ever really remove the residual sadness that lingers. To me,

it’s a good example of how not to design… Then there’s the Miasteczko Wilanów development. There was nothing there before so they haven’t bypassed history, but it just feels foreign: I don’t hate it, and I think of it as an honest development, but it lacks diversity. I get the sense that it’s artificial, especially when compared to Wola which feels vibrant and natural in the way that it has developed.

Wola looks destined to be the new CBD – you seem

positive about it?

Wola intrigues me. It’s lucky in that the structure of local ownership is clear and there aren’t any major private land claims to settle.

It’s also close and wellconnected to the center, and I’m happy they’ve kept the original layout of the roads. Its development has felt natural and organic, and because there wasn’t much there before there’s nothing there that will suffer from gentrification. Looking at how it’s going, I’m happy to give it my blessing!

TOWARZYSKA, UL. ZWYCIĘZCÓW 49

warsawinsider.pl

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PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

UPRISING TALKING POINTS

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Controversies of THE RISING Over seventy years on, the rights and wrongs of the 1944 Warsaw Uprising continue to be the source of fierce debate... BY STUART DOWELL

T

hey say that if you lock two Poles in a room for 24 hours you will get three opinions, not to mention several political parties, break-away factions and the emergence of an underground state. But what would these stereotypes discuss in their time-locked chamber? A good bet is the Warsaw Uprising. There are few subjects that evoke the same emotion, pride, shock and controversy among Poles as the Home Army’s 1944 Armageddon.

Perhaps the greatest subject of continuing discussion is whether the Uprising should have been launched in the first place. Home Army planners had set specific conditions under which an armed anti-German rising in the capital could take place to ensure the best chance of victory and to protect the civilian population against German reprisals.

Few if any of these conditions were met in the summer of 1944. There was no diplomatic agreement between the Polish government-in-exile in London and the Soviet Union; no contact had been made between the Home Army and General Rokossovsky’s 1st Belorussian Front; the insurgents were poorly armed as many weapons had been distributed to other fighters engaged in Operation Tempest; the rising was set to take place in daylight forcing insurgents to cross open ground against wellarmed, well dug-in and battle-experienced defenders whereas plans drawn up earlier envisaged an initial wave of night-time attacks; and neither was there any agreement for the Allies to support the rising with equipment drops.

Other controversies continue regarding the actual events of the uprising, including the role of children in the fighting...

Set against this was the need for Stanisław Mikołajczyk, the Polish Prime Minister in London, to make a deposit into the metaphorical ‘account of blood’ demanded by Churchill, Roosevelt and, deceitfully, by Stalin. Furthermore, the columns of broken and defeated German soldiers that had been streaming through the city after the Red Army’s devastating successes under Operation Bagration and the sight of German administrators clearing their desks and fleeing the capital must have given local commanders the sense that victory was possible against the diminished German force that remained in Warsaw.

What they couldn’t have envisaged was the assassination attempt on Hitler at his Wolf ’s Lair complex in the forests of Mazuria less than two weeks before. Having lost faith in his

Wehrmacht generals, he placed full control of the operation to quell the rising in the Waffen SS, the only major military operation commanded by the SS throughout the war. Prompted

by Himmler’s apocalyptic suggestion to solve the problem of Warsaw, which had stopped German expansion in the East for a thousand years, the now infamous ‘Order for Warsaw’ was given: “Every citizen of Warsaw is to be killed including men, women and children,” it read. “Warsaw has to be levelled to the ground in order to set a terrifying example to the rest of Europe.”

That the Poles were planning to rise in Warsaw was no secret; everyone seemed to know something was afoot and the city crackled with tension. Signs that the Nazis would defend the city were also pain to see – in the weeks before the Uprising broke out, Hitler had ordered the Waffen SS to roll through the city on their way to fight in General Model’s counter-offensive around Radzymin with their weapons on full show. However, these signs were ignored.

With little political leadership from London (the orders were to launch an uprising based on local assessment of the situation) and under intense psychological pressure, Home Army commander General ‘Bór’ Komorowski issued the order to mobilise and then launch an uprising to liberate Warsaw.

The failure of the insurgents to achieve their major objectives in the first wave of attacks and the Germans’ relative unpreparedness as they waited for reinforcements created a pause during which both sides could dig in. This, coupled with Hitler’s maniacal plan of destruction, lead to a perfect storm that unleashed an orgy of killing and decimation that was so extreme that it is still hard to comprehend seven decades later.

Other controversies continue regarding the actual events of the uprising, including the role of children in the fighting, the execution of prisoners of war, the attitude of the civilian population towards the insurgents, the assistance provided by the Western Allies and the true intentions of Stalin and whether his begrudging and delayed assistance was only meant to prolong the tragedy.

The greatest controversy though remains whether it was worth it. For some, the answer is obvious. With around 20,000 dead soldiers and over 200,000 dead civilians, the surviving population expelled from the city with many being sent to concentration camps or for forced labour, a city reduced mostly to rubble and ashes, and the sacrifice of blood never being repaid by the Allies, scepticism about the sense of the uprising is hard to resist. Others, though, see in Warsaw’s oblation the ultimate expression of a love for freedom and a message to the world that the Poles will always fight and never give up. In support, they would point to Poland avoiding bloody suppression by the Soviet Union in the 1980s as a consequence of the memory of the rising. In a world of polarising world-views and clashing narratives, these controversies will no doubt persist, ensuring that the legacy of the Uprising retains its relevance. warsawinsider.pl

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UPRISING PHOTOGRAPHY

The Warsaw Uprising: THEN & NOW

Though the 1944 Warsaw Uprising has been the subject of numerous books, few have succeeded in creating the visual impact of Teraz ’44 by Michał Wójcik and Marcin Dziedzic…

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Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2017

With the Eastern Front rumbling towards Warsaw, the Polish Home Army launched the Warsaw Uprising with the dual aim of liberating the capital from Nazi rule and installing a local civil leadership independent of the Soviet Union. Breaking out on August 1, 1944, the battle raged for 63 days and has come to be defined as much by its barbarity as it has its bravery. By the time Polish forces capitulated, an estimated 250,000 civilians were dead. Still worse was to follow: on Hitler’s personal orders, what remained of the city was to be methodically demolished.

The mental scars remain to this day; however, with the number of living veterans diminishing and physical evidence disappearing, it’s becoming increasingly difficult to imagine the intensity and scale of the fighting. Teraz ’44 brings those days of struggle alive; using a mobile app to calculate the precise time of day a picture was shot, photographer Marcin Dziedzic has created an album that seamlessly blends images from the Uprising with his photos of today. A quite magnificent labor, learn more on Marcin’s (Polish language only) website: teraz44.pl

warsawinsider.pl

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TRAVEL ŁÓDŹ

Woodge You Believe It?

At the beginning of the millennium Łódź looked burnt out – not just spiritually, but in a quite literal physical sense.

Now, it’s well on its way to becoming Poland’s crucible of creativity… BY ALEX WEBBER | PHOTOS BY ED WIGHT

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With its blackened chimney stacks, peeling tenements and disintegrating factories, Łódź is by no means the conventional choice for a weekend away.

But what was once Poland’s second city has caught a second wind. Buoyed by an explosion of free thinking, its rehabilitation as one of Europe’s coolest mavericks has begun…

THERE & BACK Capped by a vaulted steel and glass canopy, the super-modern Fabryczna station is all squeaky granite floors and lilywhite facades. It’s also often eerily empty: you feel, almost, like the first man on the moon. Trains from Warsaw (and back) run frequently with the journey time taking as little as 80 minutes.

For first class you’ll be paying less than 50 zeds (for second, just south of 30). If you’re driving (though why would you?), Łódź lies 140 km south west of Warsaw with Google maps promising a trip time of approximately 100 minutes.

YOUR BED Lodging in Łódź once meant kipping down in KGB-style facilities. You’ve still got plenty of those about, but you’ll probably prefer to give them a miss.

Instead, check into the Andel’s.

Guests wander through infinite corridors that pulsate with softly changing lights, before eventually arriving to pristine rooms whose colour palette offsets

charcoal grey and patches of brickwork against punches of lime, lemon and mandarin. The signature stamp is a top-floor pool that juts off the edge of this former textile mill. Famous guests: Depeche Mode, Rihanna and that Bieber berk. More affordable is Stare Kino, a boutique residence that celebrates the cinematic heritage of the city by theming its rooms around film (e.g. the Goodfellas Suite).

THE BIG FILL It’s a sad fact of life that chain restaurant operators love Łódź to pieces: but don’t let the abundant presence of Sphinx deter you, for this is a city finding its appetite for good food. Unreported by the guidebooks, Lavash is a firm local favorite that turns out exuberant portions of Caucasian food. For something more hip and ‘now’, then the Piotrkowska 217 complex has assembled a host of small bistros appealing to young, urban creatives. Find it just beyond a wall that asks the public to complete the sentence:

Before I die I want to… Off Piotrkowska follows a similar format with super cool spots in battered surrounds. Last, and definitely not least, Senoritas could teach most of Warsaw’s restaurants a thing or two about Mexican food.

THE SPEND If you’ve followed our advice and booked into the Andel’s then you’ll find yourself looking down on Manufaktura, an immense

red brick compound featuring restaurants, bars, leisure facilities and, above all else, a great big shopping mall. It’s impressive and, arguably, the kick-starter that resuscitated Łódź. In all likelihood though, there’s nothing here you won’t find in Warsaw. Instead, head to Off Piotrkowska to learn why some are hailing this city as Poland’s new creative force. Set inside the oily old workshops of a repurposed factory are several warsawinsider.pl

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TRAVEL ŁÓDŹ

drivers are on hand to pedal and pant you towards the address of your choice. Warning: prices jump the moment you veer off Piotrkowska so this mode of transport is only recommended if you’re sticking to that part. independent stores specializing in art, craft and home design.

Perhaps most famous of all is Pan Tu Nie Stal, a locally-born clothing/lifestyle brand – yes, they’ve got a presence in the capital, but this is their mothership!

ART ATTACK Huge wall murals are transforming the once grey walls of Poland’s big cities: the trend, though, that started here.

Witty and accomplished, they’ve added an extra dynamic to the city, casting a splash of light and humor across the town. For a unique urban safari, check out the mural map at: galeriaurbanforms.org. But it’s not just the walls that give an insight into

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Łódź’s unorthodox personality: outbreaks of public artistic expression are common and have, in the recent past, included the installation of giant pepper shakers along Piotrkowska and a steam train coated in silver foil. Moving indoors and the MS2 Museum of Art can compete alongside the top galleries in the country: fiercely slanted towards the avant-garde, current exhibitions thrust works by the likes of Katarzyna Kobro, Enrico Prampolini and Władysław Strzemiński onto visitors. ŁÓDŹ ON WHEELS The principal high street, Piotrkowska, clocks in at just under five kilometers: fortunately, a battalion of gnarled rickshaw

Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2017

KNOW YOUR HISTORY Often dubbed ‘The Manchester of Poland’, the city’s industrial heritage comes alive inside the Museum of the Factory.

Though moderate in size, it’s an absorbing experience that sucks visitors to the time when the city was one of the textile capitals of Europe. Full of quirky factoids concerning daily life, of note is the exhibit that explores the cultural, sporting and assorted extra-curricular lives of the workers.

Onwards, and the Museum of Cinematography presents everything you need to know about the city Poles refer to as HollyŁódź. Polański, Wajda and Kieślowski all learned their

trade in this city, and this rambling exhibition gives a strong sense of the cultural importance film has played locally. The film sets and old movie posters are of particular interest.

More somber, the Jewish Cemetery is the biggest in Europe and a forlorn, ghostly reminder of the times the city housed one of the liveliest Jewish communities in Europe. Jewish life was all but wiped out during the Holocaust, and walking the vast (largely decrepit) former Ghetto makes for a highly poignant afternoon.

ACT THE TOURIST In a city now known for cool street installations, the Rubinstein Piano – set outside the pianist’s former home on Piotrkowska 78 – is a comical relic from ‘the Age of Bad Taste’. Seen from afar as a winged monstrosity, it’s the most hideous of all the monuments that were added during a crazy short time over

warsawinsider.pl

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TRAVEL ŁÓDŹ

the previous decade. A snap next to the hideous ‘it doesn’t look anything like him’ monument of Rubinstein is a rite-of-passage!

Back to the future, and it’s essential you visit the EC1 Planetarium – a stunning splurge of EU funding, topics covered include the story of aviation, the truth about black holes, and the dawn of the space age.

THE NIGHT OUT To accurately and adequately describe the energy of Łódź after-dark would take an entirely separate article. Naturally, the bulk of the action centers on and around Piotrkowska with must-visit venues including the craft beer specialists Piwoteka Narodowa and the near mythical Łódź Kaliska: featuring a glass floor, a slanted bar, bonkers music policy and a smoking room decorated with 19th century

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images of topless women, its reputation for hedonism extends across Poland.

Yet Off Piotrkowska achieves the impossible by eclipsing those: outside, the courtyard is redolent of a street party – club beats mix with the babble of a thousand tongues to generate a wall of din, while smoky food truck aromas merge with the pungent scent of sly spliffs.

Merged together, these elements create a throbbing wave of celebratory chaos. But the outdoor action serves only to mask the tumult inside. Heavy irons doors swing open to reveal a whole list of venues: among them, Dom, a divey, mucky club where limbs flail wildly to heartrattling techno – when you exit, eventually, it’s with a 1,000-yard stare that tells its own tale. Raw and relentless it’s a night to remember.

Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2017

HOT LINKS Andel’s (andelslodz.com) EC1 Planetarium (planetariumec1.pl) Łódź Kaliska (klub.lodzkaliska.pl) Off Piotrkowska (offpiotrkowska.com) Piwoteka Narodowa (piwotekanarodowa.pl) Lavash (lavash.pl) MS2 (msl.org.pl) Museum of Cinematography (kinomuzeum.pl) Museum of the Factory (muzeumfabryki.pl) Piotrkowska 217 (piotrkowska217.pl) Senoritas (senoritas.pl) Stare Kino (cinemahotel.pl),

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Nights and City Lights at Stixx

From August 4th to September 1st, Stixx Bar & Grill is delighted to introduce its ‘Summer Nights & City Lights’ program. Featuring a fantastic wine selection, an exciting cocktail offer and Warsaw’s largest collection of spirits, Stixx also promise the best late night food offer in the city, making it the ideal place to dine and dance the night away!

Extended opening hours will apply on Thursday (noon till 2 a.m.), Fri (noon till 4 a.m.) and Sat (1 p.m. till 4 a.m.).

Stixx Bar & Grill Pl. Europejski 4A, stixx.pl

The Perfect Pizza!

Now in our sixth year of business, Da Gusto has become a staple of Powiśle: a restaurant that’s celebrated across the district for its intimate atmosphere and authentic tastes. Most of all though, it’s our pizza that we’re famed for. Traditional in every respect, we offer a comprehensive range of pizzas cooked just how you’d expect in Italy itself. Connecting cooking with passion, Da Gusto is where pizza dreams are made!

Da Gusto ul. Przemysłowa 31/33, dagusto.com.pl

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PMF Mokotowska / Wilcza 3

Famed for our stylish manicure treatments, slick service and fine sense of taste, Pardon My French is proud to unveil an elegant new salon designed by owner Antonina Papiewska. With your convenience in mind, we’ve moved to a new address just thirty meters from our previous premises – visit us yourselves on the corner of Wilcza and Mokotowska. Of course, as before, our guests can expect the very best mani-pedi and waxing experience.

Pardon My French ul. Mokotowska/Wilcza 3, pardonmyfrench.pl Also on: ul. Belwederska 32 & ul. Bonifraterska 8

NEW LOCATION!

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NEWSFLASH! Throughout the month of August Hala Koszyki will be hosting a series of DJ workshops as part of the global Red Bull 3Style event. Roll-up each Thursday at 6 to learn more about the secrets of the DJ booth! Participation is free.

At Your Service

At Room Service we deliver food from the best restaurants in Warsaw; collaborating only with high-quality restaurants, we accept both online and phone orders, and have a dedicated team of Englishspeaking operators on hand to help and advise. For your convenience, we also publish a restaurant guide presenting the Top 10 dishes from each of the seventy restaurants we represent: you’ll get a free copy when you order with us!

Room Service roomservice.pl

New At Weranda

At Weranda our new summer menu is a two-pronged affair: on one hand, we’ve sought inspiration from the Middle East, with new dishes including hummus, baba ghanoush and tabbouleh. On the other, we’re expanding our selection of lettuce, with debut meals including Japanese lettuce accompanied with shimeji mushrooms, pickled zucchini and cucumber.

And of course, don’t forget our legendary desserts: banofee pie, grated green pears and chocolate cake with raspberries. See you there!

Weranda Hala Koszyki (ul. Koszykowa 63, werandafamily.com)

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SWEETS AHOY! Pirate Candy isn’t just for kids! With 33

barrels and 18 boxes brimming with sweets, candies and marshmallows, we guarantee that bucaneers of all ages will leave with their own haul of treasure! Original and magical in every respect, we also offer sweets that are registered glutenfree, vegetarian and vegan.

Pirate Candy ul. Chmielna 6, shop@piratecandy.pl, piratecandy.pl, open daily 11:00-21:00

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LEARN POLO Despite appearances, polo is one of the easiest equestrian disciplines to teach.

Beginners get to pick up a mallet and smack the ball around during their first lessons, and teams start taking part in scrimmages after just a few months. If someone catches the polo bug, all that is left is to perfect their skills, just like with golf or tennis. During the season, which runs from April to October, the Warsaw Polo Club organizes lessons and practices for all skill levels, as well as action-packed, fast-moving chukkers (the name for the periods in a polo match), which can be even more fiercely contested than many tournament matches, usually on weekends at around 11:00 or 16:00 – for latest info, check our facebook page.

Learning to play polo is also made easier thanks to the special breed of horses flown in from Argentina. With their characteristic even gallop, they often instinctively support the rider when chasing the ball.

The unusual temperament of the horses and the spirit of the athlete can make polo completely engrossing: fortunately, polo is a sport that grandparents can even play with their grandchildren. It is very much a family sport, and it is not only the players who derive pleasure from the world of polo but also their families and friends, as they get to admire both the players and their horses over a glass of wine or a picnic. A love for horses is an inseparable part of polo life.

Come For The Ride

Now in its tenth year of operation, the Warsaw Polo Club has established itself as an institution of global esteem...

T

he Warsaw Polo Club is located just 27 kilometers south of the center of Warsaw, on the edge of the Chojnów Landscape Park. It is a dream location for horse lovers and, in fact, for anyone who would like to get away from the hustle and bustle of the city for a while. Operating since 2007, the club is a well-known fixture on the polo map of Europe. Its members have been invited to tournaments practically all over the world, having already played in countries such as Austria, Germany, Italy, England, France, Argentina, Brazil and Uruguay.

Created specifically for polo, the club is set on a 10-hectare estate and includes a 4-hectare professional polo ground and practice area, a stylish residence with a number of Provençalstyle guest rooms and an old-English-style clubhouse. Countless places to relax can also be found among the centuries-old oaks or in the shade of a stand of birch trees. Once on the pitch, the extremely calm and friendly Argentinean polo ponies turn into spectacular, agile, speeding steeds. They are their owners’ greatest treasures, and watching them on the pitch is an experience that will not quickly be forgotten.

POLO IN POLAND Despite the fact that the sport has a long tradition in Poland (the Zamoyski brothers were already playing polo before World War II, and it was also often played by cavalrymen), the sport disappeared in the country for nearly 70 years. For a number of years now, however, we have been witnessing the revival of this elegant and dynamic discipline.

There are currently about 50 Polish and foreign players at all levels in the country (nearly half of whom are women). A team consists of four people. A polo ground is as big as five football fields, and four chukkers of 7.5 minutes are played on a total of 32 horses (four per rider).

A PRIVATE BUT OPEN CLUB The club is open to visitors, both those who would like to watch a game up close and those who have the courage to try their hand in the saddle in pursuit of that mesmerizing little white ball. The club also hosts numerous events and annual tournaments.

Warsaw Polo Club Działkowa 27, Jaroszowa Wola, warsawpoloclub.pl warsawinsider.pl

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BEST OF WARSAW ANNUAL EDITION

The Insider’s Best of Warsaw awards have become one of the leading food and drink events in Poland, which is why for the first time ever we’ve published a separate bumper issue detailing the cream of the crop.

Available all year round for zł. 20, look for it in selected media outlets, or contact us direct at: insider@warsawinsider.pl

EAT!

PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

NICE TO MEAT YOU

Warsaw might have the fastest growing vegan scene in the world, but that doesn’t mean it’s likely to ever lose its appetite for cleavered slabs of pig and cow – at least, not while Tomasz Tomaszek is lurking about. Best-known for launching Pogromcy Meatów, his latest project sees a strange-looking rotunda revived as a compact eatery whose brief menu is butch and brawny and comfortably familiar: Philly cheese steak served inside fresh pitta bread; Polish white sausage in a thick corn sauce; and boczek that’s soft in parts and crackly in others – lathered in a thick gloss of plum glaze, it’s a dish that sets off fireworks.

Meat Warsaw Corner of ul. E. Plater / Świętokrzyska, fb.com/meatwarsaw

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Eat! Review

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Zielnik ul. Odyńca 15 (garden opposite in Park Dreszera), restauracjazielnik.pl

SUMMER LOVIN’

With the sun comes the return of one of Warsaw’s top summer spaces...

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lmost British in its damp and inconsistency, this summer has teased, frustrated and only occasionally delivered. Regardless of this, the natives remain defiant and undefeated – the first crack of light, and out they come, scurrying outside to bask in the sun. For some, this has meant surrendering all privacy and descending on the riverbank; for others, city center terraces that bake in the heat. For me though, summer has meant rediscovering Warsaw’s wee band of suburban secret gardens.

Hidden behind a screen of greenery, Zielnik is one such place. Proper, prim and perfect, it’s a venue where the popping of corks and gentle murmur of conversation drift softly under the pristine white canopies – squint a little and you’d think you were at Wimbledon (the tennis tournament, not the football club). Food-wise, the menu has a heavy Polish perspective, but one that feels contemporary and open to global influences: incorporating shallots, peppers and coriander oil, the crisp gazpacho is a prime example of this. So too is the Baltic salmon tartar: marinated for 24 hours with salt, sugar and coriander seeds, it’s served with mango, cucumber and avocado. A mix of domestic and international produce, it presents, in the words of our waiter, “everything we love about the summer.”

Chanterelles picked in Hajnówka return the focus to Poland: complete with caramelized cauliflower and a poached quail egg, it’s a dish that feels fundamentally and proudly Polish – the wild forest tastes given sophistication by the smooth, buttery finish. Mains are equally patriotic: presented on a wooden board, the spare ribs are sticky and succulent and served in a dinosaur portion; roast duck, it’s crackly skin perfectly browned, arrives ringed in vivid whirls of apricot and plum sauce; and finally, a Hereford entrecote cooked medium rare. By the end, all that’s left are piles of bones and scrunched up napkins, empty bottles and smudged glasses – in fact, all the indicators of a tipsy afternoon in a cherished summer hit. (AW)

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Eat! Interview

THE YEAR OF THE (HAPPY) COW

Ken Spector of HappyCow, the largest vegan website in the world, speaks out about his vision for Warsaw’s vegan future...

I’ve heard you say in previous interviews that no city on earth has surprised you more than Warsaw...

We decided to travel to Warsaw in 2014 because so many listings were being added to HappyCow in such a short space of time. When we booked our tickets that October, HappyCow listed 11 vegan restaurants in Warsaw – when we arrived the following May, that number had grown to 20, and three more were scheduled to open in the following months. While planning our trip I’d spoken to some Warsaw-based vegans, and they mentioned that I probably wouldn’t be very impressed with Warsaw’s food because I’d be comparing it to the food in places like L.A and New York. I was expecting the food to be average at best but my assumptions were completely wrong: Warsaw has a number of outstanding restaurants, and the food quality and presentation in many of them is spectacular.

What excites you about Warsaw’s vegan revolution?

That within just a square mile I counted 24 vegan restaurants on HappyCow! Before traveling to Poland, I had never been to a Polish restaurant: I assumed Polish food was comprised of mostly meat and dairy. When I visited Warsaw, I tried a number of restaurants specializing in ‘veganized’ Polish food including Vege Miasto and Lokal, and tried vegan pierogi, goląbki and schabowy. I was amazed by the quality of these dishes. When we returned in 2016, we found quite a few more vegan restaurants had been added to HappyCow. There are now 38 vegan restaurants in Warsaw! I can’t name another city in the world with two vegan sushi restaurants that have different owners – actually, one of the best food pictures I’ve ever taken was at Edamame on Wilcza!

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Could you paint a picture of the Warsaw vegan?

I’m not sure there is a typical Warsaw vegan. I met quite a few, and the only thing they seemed to share in common was that they spoke Polish and loved vegan food!

So, when’s your next trip!

I don’t have a trip planned at this time, but I very much want to return to Warsaw to check out the latest vegan and vegetarian restaurants. I found the people in Warsaw to be kind, passionate and helpful, and I love that so much pride is being put into the city’s vegan food!

HappyCow recently rated Warsaw as the third most veganfriendly city on the planet, and the fastest growing vegan city in the world! For details, see: happycow.net

PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE COURTESY, OPPOSITE PAGE FACEBOOK EXCEPT TOP LEFT BY MARCIN GILOWSKI

Which global trends do you see Warsaw adopting?

I believe that Warsaw will see more upscale vegan restaurants in the future. At HappyCow we’ve been marketing Warsaw as a phenomenal vegan destination for a few years now, and I know that more and more tourists will be traveling to Warsaw for the vegan food. Tourists will often spend more money on dining, so I believe more upscale vegan restaurants will open to cater to them.

Due to the number and quality of vegan restaurants in Warsaw, I imagine an increasing number of Polish people will be exposed to plant-based cuisine. These people will realize that there’s more to being vegan than eating salad, and I believe the number of vegans will increase rapidly, as will the number of people who are ‘vegan-curious’.

These people will desire more vegan restaurants, bakeries and stores. Healthier vegan restaurants and fresh juice shops seem to be a trend globally, and I see Warsaw as having more options in this area.

Eat! Vegetarian

EDAMAME VEGAN SUSHI Sushi without its star ingredient sounds ridiculous, but this vegan sushi joint manages to out-manoeuver its traditional competitors by replacing below-par fish with fresh, vegetarian produce: sugar snap peas, radish, carrots, asparagus, etc. (D5) ul. Wilcza 11, edamame.pl KROWAZYWA Packed with girls wearing skating clothes and moon boots, this burgery makes a big boast that their whole menu is 100% plant-based and their food compiled using ‘the best, freshest, unprocessed and fullbalanced ingredients.’ (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 27/35 / ul.

Hoża 29/31, krowarzywa.pl LEONARDO VERDE No longer viewed as ‘cheap student food’, a number of venues have carried the vegetarian cause forward, demonstrating it sheer potential. One such place is Leonardo Verde, a startlingly beautiful hangout that gives Italian food the green treatment. (D5) ul. Poznańska 13 LOKAL DELA KREM Specializing in vegan cakes

Tel Aviv

Edamame Vegan Sushi

and assorted pastries and desserts, it’s already well on the way to becoming the cult hit of summer. (D5) ul.

Hoża 27A

TEL AVIV Once known for its Israeli street food, Tel Aviv’s shift towards ‘vegan fine dining’ has caused ripples across town. “People shouldn’t be excluded from enjoying high standards just because they’ve chosen the vegan lifestyle,” says the owner, Malka Kafka. (D5) ul.

Poznańska 11, restauracjatelaviv.pl

LOKAL VEGAN BISTRO Lokal keep Homer Simpson characters in mind with regular guest slots for street food that’s given a full vegan makeover. Offhand, that’s meant vegan kebabs, cheese steaks, burgers and zapiekanka. (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31 MOMENCIK Vegan burritos may sound wrong, but at Momencik they’re every bit as good as anything you’ll be used to. They’ve got all the perky flavor that Mexican food should have, but none of the unpleasant post-meal bloaty bubbles. (D5) ul. Poznańska 16 ORGANITHEKA Raw, plant-based meals are their principal claim to fame, though these are accompanied by a selection of cold pressed juices, raw chia desserts, coconut yogurts and other surprises: the tiny dining room belies the depth of choice and flavor. (C4) ul.

Twarda 1, fb.com/organitheka

Organitheka

VEG DELI An entrance beset with candles, plant pots and seasonal veg charms people in, and they tend to stay on to dine on creative vegetarian options that nearly always hit the spot. The homemade Russian pierogi an absolute highlight. (E3) ul. Radna 14, fb.com/vegdeli WARS I SAWA W NOWYM With its wide spaces, high ceilings and echoing sense of clatter, there’s something of a canteen spirit to Wars i Sawa. The vege-burger sounds prosaic but is actually something of a star turn. (E9) ul. Madalińskiego 10/16 WEGEMAMA Inspired by the tastes of Asia, Wegemama gives

Lokal Vegan Bistro

Momencik

vegan cooking a zippy twist with their spin on such classics as laksa soup and pad Thai. The desserts – made using natural extracts and superfoods – have made a particular impact on Wegemama’s expanding fanbase. (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 28, wegemama.com WERANDA BISTRO Decorated with shrubbery and dangling paper decoys, Weranda’s design is thoughtful enough to be in equilibrium with the wider Koszyki setting, yet sufficiently distinct to stand apart from the crowd.

Kudos, as well, to the food.

Prepare for huge, leafy salads assembled to look complex and intriguing.

(D6) ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki), weranda.pl YOUMIKO VEGAN SUSHI Well-established in Kraków, Youmiko enter Warsaw’s vegan sushi market hot on the heels of Edamame nearby. There’s definitely more of a hipster, ‘urban guerrilla’ feel to Youmiko, but the sushi is every bit a success. Often better than ‘the real thing’. (D5) ul. Hoża 62, youmiko.vg

Weranda

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SHUTTERSTOCK

EAT! Ice Cream

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THE BIG SCOOP

Warsaw’s addiction to ice cream has spun out of control. With dozens of sellers deserving attention and applause, we’ve done the impossible and picked out the magnificent seven that just cannot be missed…

LIMONI CANTERI 1952 Founded by Giacomo Canteri – who was inspired by the discovery of his grandmother’s gelato recipes in the attic – Limoni have grown to become perhaps the most high profile of Warsaw’s gelato vendors.

Highly seasonal tastes are complimented by the appearance of oddities that, in the past, have included, carrot, beer and tomato.

Further, they remain the only producer in Poland to make special dog-friendly ice cream! Various locations, cukierniewarszawa.pl

mojito, absinth and Campari!

Various locations, sucre.pl LODY PRAWDZIWE Hailed in the past by Gazeta Wyborcza as Warsaw’s top ice cream, Prawdziwe’s attitude to perfection cannot be faulted. Natural, artisanal ice creams and sorbet are produced using only highquality, proven ingredients. In terms of excellence, they’ve got it licked. ul. Świętokrzyska 30 & Nowy Świat 22, lodyprawdziwe.com

NITRO LODY Frozen with liquid nitrogen, just watching the process is enough to make customers feel like they’re part of Dexter’s Laboratory.

Smoother than midnight velvet, the result sees super creamy classic tastes jazzed up with sprinkles of Lion bar, Gummi Bears and other such weirdness. ul. Zwycięzców 11

SWEET MOMENTS The Insider’s new, undisputed ice cream champion! Served up by chatty girls dressed in candy pink colors, the ice cream and sorbet here reaches new, unseen heights: the classics are sublime, but also look out for the occasional appearance of exotic guest hybrids: e.g. pineapple / kiwi / melon. It doesn’t get any better than this. ul. Puławska 38 & Stawki 2A, cukierniasweetmoments.pl

SUCRE What began as little more than a hole-in-a-wall has evolved into a sprawling empire. Using the purest most natural ingredients available, this year has seen Sucre broaden their philosophy and become more adventurous than before: the results have seen new flavors debut, among them lemon/bergamot, vegan coconut not to mention alcoholic numbers such as

THAI ICE Made from a mobile stand, Thai Ice taps into the global trend for rolled ice cream served in paper cups with jolly toppings of sprinkles, candy, chocolate and fruit.

It’s pure food porn in its rainbow-colored, dazzling best. On a hot day waiting times reach preposterous proportions, and yet no-one turns back. ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 21/23 & Nowy Świat 53

ON THE VEGAN FRONT

“The most important part of making ice cream? Passion!” So say Vegestacja, Warsaw’s first vegan ice cream outlet.

“Making gelato – or, in our case, vegelato – demands emotional involvement, otherwise you’re nothing more than an ingredient mixer. You have to think about making your product better all of the time, even if you’re just making small, step-by-step changes.

Keeping our customers happy is the goal, and if we reach that then we know we’ve done a good job – that in itself is an addictive feeling that pushes us on.”

Moreover, Vegestacja have played a vital role in Warsaw’s plant-based progression: “We like to think we’re definitely part of the vegan revolution – we make the decision to become vegan that much tastier. Most of us vegans will occasionally have ‘cheat days’, and that’s especially true at the beginning.

Thanks to us, becoming a vegan in Warsaw is a little easier. I think we show people that being vegan isn’t as horrible as it sounds!”

The Insider is inclined to agree.

Vegestacja, ul. Puławska 38, vegestacja.pl

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EAT! Listings

YOU’VE TRIED ALL THE REST, NOW TRY THE BEST!

By in large, you can expect to pay between zł. 20-35 for starters, and zł.

35-70 for mains. Expect those prices to double in the case of the city’s fine dining venues. Those wishing to cut costs should seek out the weekday business lunch deals now offered by most restaurants. When tipping, 1020% is considered polite though be aware of automatic service charges in some venues.

2016 Best of Warsaw Award Winner BEST OF WARSAW 2016 KEY WINNERS Fine Dining - Nolita Casual Dining - MOD Upscale Casual - Dyletanci & Rozbrat20 Modern Polish - Mała Polana Smaków

Newly Opened!

Le Cedre Lounge Grzybowska 5A Tel 22 299 7299

Le Cedre 61

(opposite the zoo) Al. Solidarności 61, Praga Tel 22 670 1166

Le Cedre 84

(opposite the court) Al. Solidarności 84 Tel 22 618 8999

www.lecedre.pl

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american 38 bakeries 38 balkan & russian 39 british 39 burgers & street food 39 chinese 40 fine dining 40 georgian 42 greek & turkish 42 hungarian 43 indian 43 indonesian 44 international 45 italian 51 japanese & sushi 53 jewish 54 korean 54 latin & spanish 54 mexican 55 middle eastern 56 polish 57 rusian 63 seafood 64 scandinavian 64 specialty food shops 64 steak houses 67 thai 68 vietnamese 68

american Brooklyn Restaurant & Bar Gone are the fancy pants culinary creations once found in the basement, ousted in favor of a menu of pimped-up soul and street food, salads and steaks.

This means fresh tacos not to mention the best-selling ‘Mito’s Beef Ribs’. The ground floor burger bar is more prosaic, offering a standard line-up of burgers and wings. (C4) Al. Jana Pawła II 18 (Rondo ONZ), tel. 22 114 3434, brooklynbw.eu

Hard Rock Café Instantly recognizable by the giant neon guitar outside, Hard Rock has a pierced staff of skater boys and rock girls and a menu that is, if nothing else, completely reliable. Peruse rock’n’roll swag that includes Joplin’s blouse, Prince’s guitar and Shakira’s pants. (C4) ul.

Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, hardrockcafe.pl

bakeries Aromat That many consider this their favorite bakery says it all. French flour and an expert baker ensure brilliant results, while the lemon éclairs deserve their own Facebook page. (C4) ul. Sienna 39, fb.com/piekarnia.aromat Café Vincent Queues build quickly as locals line up to buy baguettes, cinnamon rolls, lemon croissants and beautiful pains au chocolat. But people don’t just head in then out, a small wine list and brilliant people spying opportunities cause many to hang around. (D3) ul. Nowy Świat 64 Charlotte While the fancy crowd isn’t to everyone’s liking, the atmosphere feels truly continental: even more so in warm weather when the terrace packs out.

(D6) Al. Wyzwolenia 18 (enter from pl.

Zbawiciela), bistrocharlotte.com Paul Specializing in pastries, baguettes and other baked goods, this French chain have rapidly entrenched themselves in

EAT! Listings the capital following their debut last year.

Various locations, boulangeries-paul.com

other quick bites. (C2) Pl. Bankowy 4, zdrowakonkurencja.pl

Qki QKI is the work of two sisters (in-law!) with a passion for the sweeter things in life. Shunning shortcuts and artificial nasties, cookies, cakes and pastries comprise the bulk of the offer here. ul. Topiel 19 & ul.

Belgradzka 14, qki.waw.pl

balkan

Rozbrat 20 Bakery & Wine Corner Best known for fathering Butchery & Wine, Daniel Pawełek makes his mark on Powiśle with the launch of Rozbrat 20, a high-end bakery that’s worthy of the rave reviews. Breakfast here is among the best you’ll find in Warsaw. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 20, rozbrat20.com.pl Zdrowa Konkurencja Aside from piping hot, fresh wheels of bread, visitors are popping in to collect readymade bagels and sandwiches loaded with pulled pork, pastrami and

Banja Luka Lots of clunky timber and imported ceramics set the scene at this eatery, a Balkan stalwart that’s known for its economical pricing structure and bulky portions. Grilled meats are prominent and the food largely reliable. (E8) ul. Szkolna 2/4, tel. 22 828 1060, banjaluka.pl

british Ę Rybę A couple of places have tried to emulate the taste of the British seaside, but this is the de facto codfather. Here’s a spot where the chips are golden, the fish

fresh and the batter crisp and light. Now also serving British breakfast, albeit at a time when most normal people will have already eaten. (E4) Al. Jana Pawła II 18, erybe.pl

burgers & street food Barn Burger Retaining a loyal crowd ever since their 2012 entry on the burger circuit, Barn Burger offer a loud and lively atmosphere and much celebrated burgers with goofy names like Heart Attack and Muppet.

The list by the door notes the results of their American-style eating competitions / greed-fests. (D4) ul. Złota 9. tel. 512 157 567, barnburger.pl Beef’N’Roll If the wheels have fallen off the burger

Traditional Polish cuisine • Live music • The best wine, regional beer and spirits • Grand Kredens • 20 years full of tradition

Share your opinion!

Al. Jerozolimskie 111, tel. +48 22 629 80 08. mob: +48 697 900 000, kredens@kredens@kredens.com.pl, www.kredens.com.pl

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EAT! Listings craze then no-one told Beef’N’Roll.

Originating as a food truck, their success has been such that a fixed venue was required. Everything about the food and drink suggests quality is the main consideration. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel.

531 707 070, beefnroll.pl

chinese Pańska 85 Ample in size, the interiors speak of money well spent. This is especially true because despite the luxury trimmings Pańska looks good without ever losing its dignity.

With their kitchen staff headhunted from across China, the food sets a standard that has yet to be seen in any Chinese restaurant in Warsaw: there’s delicate salmon rolls wrapped in mango; dim sum that are pouches of pure goodness; and Sichuan-style pork that’s a blaze of sizzle and spice. The Beijing Duck, carved and served table-side, is the highlight. (B4) ul.

Pańska 85, panska85.com Regina Bar Stepping past a pair of flowing red drapes at the entrance, guests are ushered in to discover an eclectic world that marries the tastes of New York’s Little Italy to Chinatown next door. This is done excel-

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lently with the menu presenting the very essence of ethnic comfort food: General Tso’s chicken, Cantonese duck and light, leopard-spotted pizzas. Brought to you by the makers of MOD, it’s therefore natural that the original style extends to kooky interiors tinged with a trace of retro: a tall mirrored wall and the kind of sparkling chandelier last seen in Boogie Nights. (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, fb.com/Reginabar Rico’s Concept Never let a name fool you. While Rico’s might sound more like a Mexican food truck, the reality presents a former bathhouse luxuriously decorated with hand-painted Majolica, swanky fittings and even a shimmery pool. The menu has won plaudits around town for its stunning authenticity. Full review next issue. ul.

Krakowskie Przedmieście16/18

fine dining Amber Room at the Sobański Palace Set in the pre-war Pałac Sobańskich, this wedding white manor house is the epitome of luxury: plush, discreet, elegant and serene, it unwraps like the most beautiful of presents – a network of corridors and stairwells take guests through a series of rooms and side-chambers.

Impossibly almost, the food measures up to the surrounds.For mains, the sea trout

is spectacular, arriving alongside creamy root parsley and fried cubed cucumbers.

(E6) Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, amberroom.pl Atelier Amaro The recipient of Poland’s first Michelin star, Atelier promotes pedigree Polish produce enhanced by modern techniques, with courses interspersed by occasionally bizarre interludes (leaves, flowers, twigs, etc.). It’s an extraordinary dining experience, and one which confirms the growing cult of Wojciech Amaro. In the hours you’re here the world stops and you leave feeling like James Bond. Reservations are mandatory, but this is a restaurant that tops the foodie bucket list. (E6) ul. Agrykola 1, tel. 22 628 5747, atelieramaro.pl

Belvedere Łazienki Królewskie Set in an imperial age glass orangery, it’s festooned with intricate latticework and botanical exotica. The updated interiors are the work of acclaimed set designer Boris Kudlicka, and lend a fresh, contemporary tone that goes hand in hand with the menu. But behind the gels and emulsions and pretty little swirls, this is cooking of substantial depth; it’s cooking that takes you to the very soul of Polish nature. ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. 22 558 6701, belvedere.com.pl

EAT! Listings Chłodna 15 Unrecognizable from its previous incarnation, the restaurant wing of what was, until recently, La Maison, has undergone a considerable refurbishment to lend it more gravitas. The big change, however, is the food: the daily changing menu has been purposefully kept limited, allowing chef Arek Wilamowski’s crew to keep standards high. On our visit, that meant a sophisticated French duck pate in croute cake with raspberry jam and long pepper; and cod fillet a la Grenobloise. It’s already being talked about as a Michelin candidate. (B3) ul. Chłodna 15

crowd enjoying complex cooking amid a luxurious interior of pristine linen and glinting tableware. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 31, n31restaurant.pl

Nolita BEST WAWA 2016 “Fine Dining” The deluxe dining scene is filling out in Warsaw, and there’s now a few restaurants that can present

an equitable claim for the No. 1 spot.

However, it’s Nolita that perch at the top, with a menu that sees largely classical recipes through a sharp, modern prism – chef Jacek Grochowina has created a place that’s coherent and understandable without sacrificing values of innovation.

Looking chic and high end, the tastes and sensations in this restaurant are thrilling: diners are left speechless by the tuna tartar, while the aged beef fillet is an Insider mainstay. (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 292 0424, nolita.pl

La Rotisserie It began with duck foie gras and finished with a caramel Valrhona chocolate parfait. In between came a scallop salad with plums, almonds and tarragon tempura; a grilled tuna; and a seared Barbary duck with blackberry ginger sauce and the kind of parsnips you never knew existed.

The Insider’s visit at the end of 2016 was nothing if not a reassertion of chef Paweł Oszczyk’s ample skill. Enjoy one of Warsaw’s top dining experiences inside a gloriously seductive dining room that’s been recently updated. (C1) ul. Kościelna 12 (Le Régina Hotel), tel. 22 531 6070, leregina.com L’enfant Terrible Looking like he’s just swaggered in from a rock concert, the unconventional style of Michał Bryś goes beyond surface detail alone. Promising maximum excitement, his imaginative menu isn’t short on daring twists and rollercoaster highs.

Maverick in every sense of the word, this is a chef that pushes boundaries in a way few others would dare. Though the menu changes often, keep an eye on recurring classics such as ‘tomatoes, tomatoes, tomatoes’, a kickass course that presents the humble tomato in about ten different forms! More informal than the other top bracket restaurants, the brainwashed loyalty of Enfant’s fans says much for it. (D8) ul. Sandomierska 13 (enter from Rejtana), tel. 22 119 5705, eterrible.pl N31 One of the original pioneers of modern Polish cooking returns with renewed vigor. That’s Robert Sowa, and his N31 restaurant has already made a massive splash with an upmarket, showbizzy

We serve our passion and joy which you can savor with every bite.

Reservation: +48 22 102 20 70, biuro@bazarkocha.pl

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EAT! Listings Platter by Karol Okrasa It’s a fact that Okrasa’s appearances in the kitchen are fleeting and rare, but that’s done nothing to hurt this restaurant’s prestige. Head chef Łukasz Pielak has proved to be a lethal assassin, executing the ideas of his mentor with accuracy and passion. The cooking is detailed, balanced and elegant, with the highlight of our visit being deer in plum sauce. A thing of imperial, velvety richness it’s a dish that turns up the volume on a memorable experience. (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (Hotel InterContinental Warsaw), warsaw.intercontinental.com Salto Fine dining gets a South American makeover thanks to Martin Gimenez Castro, an Argentinean who has emerged as one of the most influential chefs in Poland. While some critics grumble that Warsaw’s top end scene has flat-lined, Salto push the envelope in terms of breaking boundaries and probing new ground. Light, fresh and full of zing, the ceviche is a must, as is a delve around the Sunday steak menu. Desserts, meanwhile, are among the most inventive in town: a brilliant demonstration of Castro’s passion and personality, order the ‘Childhood / Irresponsible / Fantasy / Fun’ and you’ll understand what we mean. (D5) ul.

Wilcza 73 (enter from Emilii Plater), tel. 22 584 8771, saltorestauracja.pl

Senses Andrea Camastra’s Michelin-starred tasting menu is a succession of impossible highs and makes a big deal of scientific methods and culinary advances. Full of theater and unpredictable flourishes (billowing mists, imaginative presentation, edible cigars...), this restaurant is never short on dare and dazzle. (C2) ul. Bielańska 12, tel. 22 331 9697, sensesrestaurant.pl Signature You feel a millionaire just being here: we’ve heard the interiors described as a ‘Monegasque state of mind’, and that’s not a bad way to surmise a décor that’s all about friezes and reliefs dated from the time this was the Soviet Embassy, lavish 1950s Oswald chairs, lighting by Serge Mouille and original Marilyn photos shot by the acclaimed Milton Greene.

Food-wise the restaurant makes a massive splash with a menu that’s clever, creative and pretty. Count on Signature’s seasonally changing desserts providing a happy ending. (D5) ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 55 38755, signaturerestaurant.pl

georgian Chinkali Signposted by a Georgian-language shingle, there’s a real sense of pleasure about this place. More modern than your

typical folksy ethnic outpost, Chinkali’s draw is indeed its chinkali: dough purses packed with meaty broth. There’s a genuine homemade quality to these slurpy bundles of joy, meaning that while they’re authentic, consistency can vary. And don’t miss out on the red bean chachapuri washed down with a mouthwash-colored tarragon lemonade. (D4) ul. Zgoda 3 Klukovka Jana Pawła’s pavilions are the unlikely location of this culinary beacon: amid the aggressive waft of its kebab shop neighbors, Klukova presents itself as a warming mouse hole filled with banter, babble and rich aromas. Specializing in the foods of ‘the east’, this means a menu inspired by the tastes of Georgia, Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan, and more. The mutton manty dumplings are great, and best appreciated with a bottle of unfiltered Lithuanian beer. (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 45A, klukovka.pl Rusiko Explaining Georgian cuisine isn’t all that hard. To the uninitiated, it’s representative of the heart, spirit and passion of its people, a cuisine the values the concept of the feast: wine, laughter and song find themselves elevated to roles of primary importance. A food of life, spice and whole-hearted tastes, consider Rusiko as the best ambassador there is for this surprisingly diverse kitchen. Live music lends the weekends a good-humored twist.

Note: closed Monday. (E5) Al. Ujazdowskie 22, tel. 22 629 0628, rusiko.pl

greek & turkish Paros Out of all of Warsaw’s Greek contributions Paros dazzles most with a glitzy look that’s a complete U-turn from the typical taverna look. Owned by the same team behind El Greco, the menu is identical, though a recent visit revealed a kitchen resting on its laurels – not one plate on our table was finished. (D4) ul. Jasna 14/16, tel. 22 828 1067, paros-restauracja.pl Santorini Santorini looks scuffed and tired but there’s a bonhomie present that instantly engages. The kitchen attaches no value

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EAT! Listings to things like presentation, preferring instead to simply treat diners to piles of grilled and skewered food that consistently tastes right. ul. Egipska 7, tel. 22 672 0525, kregliccy.pl/santorini/ Sofra A highly respected Turkish eatery with a wondrous beef mussaka and a wholly admirable lineup of other ethnic dishes: the lamb shashlik has never failed us.

Pleasingly informal, this neighborhood redoubt feels cheerfully unforced, and it becomes an easy place to hang around in.

(C6) ul. Wilcza 71, tel. 731 847 731 Taverna Patris This Greek restaurant is not about sophistication and finesse, it’s about truth and taste. Likewise, the interiors have no airs and graces: there’s a rough and ready style that’s apt for noisy celebrations and familial occasions. Tawerna Patris is not about shallow details or surface appearances. Instead, it’s a place of depth, a place of integrity, a place of joy. (G4) ul.

Wał Miedzeszyński 407, tel 22 357 11 11, tawernapatris.pl

hungarian U Madziara U Madziara looks like it took two days to decorate. No-one goes here to marvel at the interiors though, they go in the knowledge that they’ll find great food at prices all bank cards can support. Chef Gabor’s signature goulash is one of life’s simple pleasures, though the service can come across as distracted and inattentive.

(B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 620 1423

indian Bollywood Lounge Known for their raucous dusk-till-dawn parties, there is another less hedonistic roll filled by Bollywood: that of a restaurant. The menu is an uncomplicated, classic affair that’s an ideal primer for the party ahead. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, tel. 22 827 0283, bollywoodlounge.pl Bombaj Masala Probably the best looking Indian

restaurant in Warsaw. After a disappointing couple of years Bombaj have upped their game and made a sparkling return to form. Bland, oily dishes have been replaced with all the rich, intense tastes you’ve come to hope for. (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 606 688 777, bombajmasala.pl

Finest Authentic Indian Cuisine in Locations Around Warsaw

WWW.CURRY-HOUSE.PL Curry House Ask for something extra hot in Curry House and by Vishnu that’s what you’ll get. Yet at Curry House there is more to sing about than just Poland’s highest voltage vindaloo. The curries are rich and sumptuous and consistently cited as among the best in the city. If in doubt, the chicken tikka masala is a fail-safe request. ul. Żeromskiego 81 & ul. Hoża 54 &ul. Towarowa 35, curry-house.pl

HOŻA 54

536 443 771

Curry Leaf The post-industrial style is diluted by the number of Indian trinkets hanging off the vents and pipes. Owned by the same crew behind the lauded Curry House, you’d be completely correct to assume consistency and excellence. ul. Conrada 5, curryleaf.pl House of Curry Heat seekers can ‘enjoy’ a genuine deathby-fire experience at House of Curry, though far milder curries are available for more sensitive palettes – either way, the experience is fantastic, and good news for those stuck out in the depths of Józefów. ul. Patriotów 11 A, house-of-curry.pl Karma Fresh, contemporary interiors impart a chic, classy look that’s leagues ahead of Warsaw’s other Indian restaurants. The food is impressive, with fresh ingredients and an expansive menu: the vindaloo is a special standout, with big, punchy flavors that leave you tingling long after you leave. (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 501 400 386, restauracjakarma.pl Maharaja That’s progress for you: where once you’d have found Maharaja on the top floor of a decaying socialist block, today you’ll find it on the ground floor of one of Warsaw’s most prestigious residential projects. It’s

ŻEROMSKIEGO 81 508 870 774

WWW.HOUSE-OF-CURRY.PL

PATRIOTÓW 11A, FALENICA 512 533 415 warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings shrunk in size and it looks more like one of the faceless restaurant units found in an out-of-town shopping centre, but the tastes are as true as ever. ul. Grzybowska 61 (Platinum Towers), maharaja.waw.pl

Then there’s the vindaloo, an experience that leaves some close to spontaneous combustion. Undoubtedly one of the best regarded Indian restaurants in this town.

Al. KEN 47, tel. 22 213 0689, mrindia.pl

Mr. India Split on two levels the design is contemporary if a little characterless: leather banquettes that leave a sweaty bum print and wood paneling. No problem though, if it looks bland then the food isn’t. That means an incredible butter chicken that’s deep and immensely satisfying.

Namaste India Responsible for first bringing quality, budget Indian food to Warsaw, Namaste have grown from humble beginnings (three tables and cooking done in a cupboard-sized space behind a curtain) to evolve into a bona fide two-floored restaurant. But expansion has come at

the cost of quality – our last trip (March 2017) promises to be the last for some time. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 15, tel. 22 357 0939, namasteindia.pl Om Indian restaurants are popping up like toast, which isn’t a problem for most ex-pats. Catering to the more budget end of the market, Om’s Nepalese chefs know their way around the kitchen. The chicken tikka masala is satisfying if nothing memorable, but the madras is something else: filled with sharp, punchy tastes that leave a lasting impression. While you get the idea it’ll never challenge the more established Indian restaurants in Warsaw, it’s the kind of place you’d be very happy to live next door to. (B4) ul. Sienna 86, omrestauracja.pl Rani Mere steps from Metro Natolin, this restaurant’s catchment area goes beyond just Ursynów. Owner Samir is a selfconfessed foodie, and his vision includes a contemporary Indian menu that features pan-seared cod with turmeric, tomato salsa and mint chutney – wonderful.

Rani will also please the traditionalists, with everything from creamy kormas to vindaloo’s that leave your ears blowing smoke rings. Al. KEN 48/10, tel. 729 247 400, rani.com.pl Tandoor After nearly 20 years at the helm, owner Charanjit Walia has sold up and moved on, leaving a spiritual hole in his life-defining work. His parting shot has been a re-haul which has seen the interior modernized and brightened. Has the food suffered?

Not a jot. The chicken tikka butter masala is as formidable as ever. It’s no longer the self-styled, ‘the best Indian restaurant in Poland’, but it’s deservedly retained a loyal core of customers. (D7) ul. Marszałkowska 21/25, tel. 22825 2375, tandoor.com.pl

indonesian Warung Jakarta The menu has a street foodie edge and is divided into steps wherein diners first pick out their choice of protein, then their rice, before concluding with any vegetables add-ons (e.g. pak choy, green

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EAT! Listings beans or water spinach). While most Warsaw restaurants have a special lunch scheme going on, Warung’s is one that actually warrants a further look: find truly great off-menu dishes that are highly accessible to all levels of income. (D6) ul.

Piękna 28/34

international Aioli Once a gritty Stalinist leftover, Konstytucji has come a long way fast. A recent rush of bars and restaurants have aided the reintroduction of life to this concrete tundra, the most prominent of which being Aioli. Some might accuse it of being formulaic, but it’s clearly a formula that works: young and energetic, there’s a buzz here lasts long into the night.

Food-wise, it’s a steady choice based around burgers, pizzas and other things that their age bracket appreciates. (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 5, aioliinspiredbymini.pl Aioli This runaway hit has taken Warsaw by storm. It’s a jaunty space with hams hanging from hooks and long communal tables that thrive with life. Aioli’s breakfasts, sandwiches, pastas and pizzas are a lesson in clean, simple pleasure: nothing out of the world, just consistently good. This and the liberal prices mean

there’s no shortage of people passing in and out the doors. (D3) ul. Świętokrzyska 18, tel. 22 290 102, aioli-cantine.com Ale Wino Dip through an archway to discover Ale Wino, a beautiful wine bar whose menu has been well tailored to the season.

Tweaked for the season is the pork belly, a Złotnicka pig adorned with apple sugar snap peas and celery mousse – gorgeous.

As for the wine, put your faith in the sommelier, Oliver. (F5) ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 628 3830, alewino.pl

out plenty of natural flavors with unexpected twists. The halibut in miso is a fish that flaps with the best: enjoy it in a back garden that cascades with greenery and plant life. (H4) ul.

Zwycięzców 21, thebell.pl Bez Tytułu A beautifully decorated restaurant on trendy Poznanska. The menu has French and Polish accents and reflects the chef’s creative streak well. (D5) ul.

Poznańska 16, beztytulu.com

Bazar Kocha Designed to evoke the spirit of a farmers’ market, the woodsy interior is filled with stall-style units neatly stacked with jars and pots. Yet these are not decorative decoys, but part of a thoughtful grocery offer aimed at showcasing Kocha’s own-made produce. Above all though, this is a restaurant whose menu is strongly influenced by concepts of ‘terroir’. The giant leg of lamb falls off the bone and is a dish to recommend and remember for several months to come. (D6) ul.

Mokotowska 33, bazarkocha.pl

Bibenda The menu declares Bibenda to be ‘a celebration of food, drink and togetherness’, and that’s precisely what it is.

Augmenting the warm, busy interiors are a thoughtful selection of craft beers and a concise menu that varies from month-to-month. The apparent simplicity of the food is illusory and belies the kitchen’s knack for spotting interesting combinations such as goose with pumpkin puree, cranberry / red wine jam and chili caramelized beetroot. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 10, tel. 502 770 303, bibenda.pl

The Bell Original in concept and flawless in its execution, The Bell is what Saska Kępa has been crying out for: somewhere stylish but not overtly fancy. Led by the brilliant Jan Piecuch, the kitchen turns

Brasserie Warszawska Looking for classic cuisine with no daft flights of fancy? Here you have it. At a time when everyone wants to be Ferran Adrià, Brasserie has both a menu and interior that you can understand: pan-

Loft is the perfect place to pause for a moment for a coffee, to meet with friends for lunch or a late dinner – most of all, it’s a chance to escape the city bustle while remaining in the heart of Warsaw. ul. Złota 11 tel. 668 016 964 restauracjaloft.pl

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EAT! Listings fried foie gras; elegant beef Rossini; and sinful apple tarte tatin, all served inside posh interiors of zinc-plated mirrors and chessboard floors. Their Michelin Bib Gourmand is a source of pride, but it’s the number of repeat clients that are the ultimate paean to the skills of the chef.

(E5) ul. Górnośląska 24, tel. 22 628 9423, brasseriewarszawska.pl Bubbles Occupying a small, square room, it’s intimate and relaxed: a place busy with blackboards and bottles, crates and

clutter. It radiates warmth and honesty.

The food is exquisite, and includes big, meaty snails farmed in Mazury, and their signature dish: Swiss-style raclette.

Presented on a wooden chopping board, this cheese dish is classic melty goodness, and served alongside a pile of potatoes, onions marinated with caramel and candied pumpkin. Considering the place doubles as a champagne bar the prices are remarkably moderate and the suprisingly casual (smart).

(D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 512 540 913, bubbles.com.pl

Bułkę przez Bibułkę When Bułkę przez Bibułkę was opened the idea was simple – to create a boutique version of Subway: a high quality sandwich shop people would value. But after they started serving breakfast, the whole thing snowballed into a more bistro-style offer. Now there’s a second venue on Zgoda, it’s not just the quality that’s contributed to the success, but the atmosphere as well. ul. Zgoda 3 & ul.

Puławska 24, bulkeprzezbibulke.pl Casablanca Biały Kamień From the same team behind Na Lato comes Casablanca, a versatile venue that muddies the lines between café, restaurant, wine bar and hangout. Equally comfortable in each of these roles, it’s a place that feels fresh and cosmopolitan, not to mention completely in tune with the swank, glass surrounds. More to the point, it’s given wings to a part of Mokotów that before felt quite sterile. ul. Żaryna 2B, casablancawaw.com.pl Concept 13 You’d expect a rooftop meal at Poland’s ultimate luxury department store to cost the earth, but that’s not the case. The zł. 50 lunch deal allows Joe Public to enjoy the considerable skills of Dariusz Barański. That he manages to create different pieces of art each and every afternoon is a testament to his talent – fellow chefs and foodies privately talk of him as a Michelin star in the making. (D4) ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7373, likusrestauracje.pl

A PLACE IN WHICH WINE PLAYS THE FIRST CHORD IN HARMONY WITH WHAT APPEARS ON THE PLATE…

WE WELCOME YOU

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The Cool Cat Our visit featured a musical standoff between two waiters arguing over possession of the laptop, and a genuine piece of plate art that was as delicious as it looked: beautiful deer surrounded by creative ingredients. Small menu and a fashionable crowd, but an immensely enjoyable place that adds further oomph to Powiśle. (F4) ul. Solec 38, tel. 787 698 700 Dekant Wine Bar Not just a contender for Warsaw’s best new wine bar, but also Warsaw’s best new restaurant! The tuna tartar comes with the added ka-boom of a nose clearing wasabi, while the filet mignon (a snip at zł.

79) is simply astonishing. The surprise are

EAT! Listings the ash-cooked potatoes, beautiful things with a char that wows. The desserts are few in number but equally outstanding: we fell in love with a passion fruit semifreddo with strawberries marinated in Grand Marnier. (F5) ul. Zajęcza 15, dekant. com.pl Der Elefant This leviathan restaurant unravels in a maze of wrought iron and monochrome tiles – beautiful to look at (it was created

by Oscar winning set designer Allan Starski), it’s caused a stir for more than just this alone. Where once the menu looked like it was devised by throwing darts at a cookbook, the focus has now been narrowed. While some of the dishes are strictly middling, the filet mignon (zł.

69) is one of the best meat deals in town in terms of quality / price / consistency. (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, tel. 22 890 0010, derelefant.com Dom Here’s the very epitome of casual dining: set on the ground floor of a suburban house, the warm corners and garden views give Dom a real sense of homey charm. In line with all that is a menu that celebrates simple, honest cooking.

Everyone who visits ends up loving the place. ul. Mierosławskiego 12, tel. 509 165 712 Dyletanci BEST WAWA 2016 “Upscale Casual” Filled with crisp, modern citizens that radiate confidence, Dyletanci introduces itself as a bistro set with green banquettes and Tom Dixon lamps. The wine selection is among the best in the nation, while the cooking has been left to Rafał Hreczaniuk, a workaholic chef with outrageous talent. His zander fillet thrills with every bite. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44A, dyletanci.pl

Grand Kredens This mighty veteran continues to draw a steady custom on account of a wide-reaching menu that aims to keep everyone happy – and it usually does.

The design is surreal to say the least, and is laid out in such a way as to always

guarantee a lively atmosphere. (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 111, tel. 22 629 8008, kredens.com.pl Grunt i Woda An appealing wood-framed construction with hard hitting cocktails and a thoughtful menu that utilizes ingredients grown in their own garden. Watch out for their ‘jazz brunches’ each Sunday. Bulwar Flotylli Wiślanej Hala Koszyki Integrating old with new, this huge project brings together some 18 food outlets inside a busy interior that’s all iron girders and industrial lighting. While there’s a feeling that there should have been a bigger focus on artisan, independent traders, that’s done nothing to dent Koszyki’s astonishing popularity. Units of note include the Gringo Salsownia, Port Royal Fish & Oyster Bar, and the Sobramesa Tapas Bar. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63, koszyki.com InFormal Kitchen There’s plenty of fireworks over the course of a vibrant menu that sources its produce from regional eco farms: meat from within a 26-kilometer radius of Warsaw, dairy produce from Mazury and fish from Pomerania. The rump of lamb is a class act, and bettered only by the pear and thyme tart for dessert. (D3) Pl. Małachowskiego 2 (enter from Traugutta), tel. 531 918 534, informalkitchen.pl Joseph’s Bistro & Wine Spacious and smooth on the eye, Joseph’s has the feel of a place where good things happen: and indeed they do. For starters there’s a visually enticing tuna tartar, not to mention gherkin with rhubarb and cheese. It’s frankly remarkable with all sorts of tastes popping out thanks to a marinade that involves passionfruit, chili, vinegar and maple syrup. As a main, don’t miss the duck breast: a simple thing of beauty that’s given extra vigor with a star anise demi-glace. (B1) ul. Inflancka 4, josephs.pl Kieliszki Na Hożej The only Polish graduate of the Alain Ducasse academy in Paris, Dawid Balana has combined everything he’s learned along the way to fashion a menu that’s high on local produce but cooked with warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings Original Indian Cuisine

a classic French twist. The tastes are precise and well-balanced, but also varied enough to give a seemingly simple dishes several interesting sub-plots. From the outside, it looks like something straight from the 6th arrondissement. Through the door, and diners are met head-on by a seductive space that’s dark, intimate and full of gleaming glass: beautiful. (D5) ul.

Hoża 41, kieliszkinahozej.pl Kuchnia Otwarta Kuchnia Otwarta have created a swell of excitement that’s rippled way beyond Wilanów. Why? Plotted out by Michał Molenda, the menu is a sincere work based around regional, seasonal produce: nothing contrived, nothing forced, it’s a card that roots out the very best that Poland has to offer. ul. Klimczaka 1 (Royal Wilanów), kuchniaotwarta.pl La Brasserie Modern The interior of Didier Gomez whispers intimacy, yet it also embraces notions of space and light. The casual elegance that emanates from the design is accented by warm colors, low banquettes and glinting mirrors. The menu fits seamlessly with the surrounds: a fresh, modern look at French cuisine, but one that values clarity and simplicity. (D3) ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8332, sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com Loft Color, that’s what Loft has. It’s everywhere – from the design, which is all bubble shaped lights and splashy, bright cushions, to the drinks: extravagant cocktails that possibly glow in the dark. The menu is full of playful experimentation, something reflected by a seasonal menu that has, in the past, presented such choices as chicken with strawberries. (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 668 016 964, restauracjaloft.pl

club

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MOD BEST WAWA 2016 “Casual Dining” Chef Trisno’s menu sets his French culinary training against his Singaporean upbringing. The outcome is a card (actually, a printed sheet of paper) that makes for dangerously enjoyable reading: duck hearts with beetroot / soy emulsion and braised red cabbage; duck confit with pok choy, soy / red wine sauce and

spicy cranberry chutney. Moderate prices and funky décor (a retro mirrored wall, upside down plants hanging from the ceiling) give it an ad hoc edge and plenty of character. Note: by day its Warsaw’s top donut store, so visit at night for their proper menu. (D6) ul. Oleandrów 8, fb.com/ MODOleandrow8 Mokotowska 69 Set inside a rotunda at the tail end of the street, it’s a place that exudes elegance and class. Most of all, however, it’s a restaurant to be enjoyed. Brought to you by the same team credited for Merliniego 5, Mokotowska’s appreciation of steak has been lifted from their elder sister.

Yet the virtues of this restaurant extend beyond steak alone: the Insider enjoyed a volley of greats – creamy breaded calf brains, sophisticated smoked eel, and Mazurian crayfish served in a deep, joyous sauce of rowan berry and brandy.

(E5) ul. Mokotowska 69, mokotowska69. com Momu.Gastrobar Back open after a revamp and a rethink, the biggest talking point has been the star addition of a wood smoker imported from the States. Allegedly the only one of its kind in Poland, the menu has been adjusted accordingly to play to this strength – with this in mind, the ribs are a must-have. (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 11, tel. 506 100 001, momu.pl Plato Conceived as a ‘smart casual’ restaurant, it’s a reasonably compact space with a modern style and incandescent bulbs hanging from a complex cat’s cradle of interweaving wires: classy but nothing too flashy or flamboyant. Then there’s the menu, a strange work that sees Spanish influences brushing shoulders next to Polish and Asian. It sounds silly and preposterous but my God it works. December saw us wowed by beef tartar cut from Polish Hereford, an aromatic oriental broth, and a refined halibut encircled with sage pesto, redcurrants and fresh almonds. Stunning. ul. Klimczaka 1 (Royal Wilanow), restauracjaplato.pl Północ Poludnie Besides the food being colorful and inventive there is a restaurant concept that works here. It has a visible kitchen,

EAT! Listings which at times is a little noisy, a beautifully designed interior, and a busy bar side scene. The lamb comes highly recommended. (E7) ul. Bagatela 10, pn-pd.pl

flavored Hungarian foie gras; and a roll of gelatinous pork with ribbons of crispy salsify and a reassuring, fleshy taste. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 20, rozbrat20.com.pl

presented in a bird’s nest of green beans, fennel and leek. For mains, look for the braised beef. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 18A, soulkitchen.pl

Prosta Historia Informal-looking with its simple white finishes and stripped wooden floors, Prosta fills a ‘catch-all’ role of cafe/ restaurant/bar/meeting point. And it does all the aforementioned very well indeed, thanks to a skilled chef, a good drinks offer and a continental atmosphere that’s all life and good humor. (H4) ul. Francuska 24, prostahistoria.com

Secado Casual, intimate interiors complement a menu that’s expanded from its original Latin leanings. Everything we’ve tried here has been close to culinary gold, and that includes the surf & turf, tortillas and the roast beef. (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 66, tel. 608 707 799, secado.com.pl

Stixx It’s easy to distrust a menu with such international diversity, but the kitchen crew really make it come together: the Indian section is particularly outstanding. Then there’s the design, a balance between slick corporate and sexy cosmopolitan: with the Warsaw Spire towering above it outside, it’s the kind of address to take any new arrival who still thinks of Poland as being backward. (A4) Pl. Europejski 4A, tel. 22 340 4040, stixx.pl

Rozbrat 20 BEST WAWA 2016 “Upscale Casual” Much noise has been made about Rozbrat 20’s bread and wine selection, but their food is also something of a standout. Our trip in December meant twirls of herring pickled in vinegar and herbs and surrounded by a whorl of pond green colors; expertly assembled and boisterously

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Soul Kitchen Bistro If the previous venue was all slanted towards low-pitched business conversation then the new one is positively festive in comparison: scuffed brickwork, tall bar stools, a long communal table, etc.

The seasonal menu is a pick-and-mix of small-to-medium plates, including a halibut gravlax, whose delicate taste juxtaposes well against the rougher, earthier kick of the radish, and crayfish

Strefa There’s a swan white elegance here, with lots of pristine colors and smart, smooth-talking service. What a refreshing

EAT! Listings change. Chef Jarosław Walczyk favors sous-vide techniques, and his is a magic, masterful hand – his duck is flawless, and the homemade ice cream with seasonal fruits is quite a follow-up. (C3) ul. Próżna 9, tel. 22 255 0850, restauracjastrefa.pl

Tusz Tusz Bistro Hidden round the back of Pl. Bankowy’s epic blue tower, Tusz Tusz is the kind of place Warsaw needs more of: a catch-all solution with a local menu that keeps office workers in mind – it’s fast, available from dawn but doesn’t cut corners when it comes to basic standards. Full review coming soon. (C2) Pl. Bankowy 2 Warbuger Na Żelazna The easiest mistake one can make is to think this is a burger joint – in part it is, but the whole truth is that it’s so

much more. A complete upgrade from their original joint in Mokotów, the real attraction is an enticing page of more-ish, meaty mains: oxtail, beef cheeks and other snips of bits and offal. (B4) ul. Żelazna 58/62

Warszawski Sznyt Warsaw’s historic center is rightly glorified for many reasons – its restaurants, however, are not one of them. In fact, there’s probably nowhere in the city with a higher concentration of sub-par efforts. Aiming to redress the balance are Sznyt, an ambitious venue with swank interiors overlooking the Royal Castle, and a kitchen staff headhunted from blue ribbon venues such as Salto and Amaro.

Set over two floors (one focused on Polish cuisine, the other on ‘international’), the

pride of the house is afforded to the wood-fired grill. (D2) ul. Senatorska 2, warszawskisznyt.pl Wilczy Głód The jaunty, impish design makes use of cartoonish wolves on the walls and treelike installations strung with bare light bulbs. And look, there’s a furry, mouse resting on a cushion. But if the place is playful and perky, then the cooking is both serious and sincere. Matching international ideas with organic local produce from small family farmsteads, you immediately sense this is a place created out of a love and respect for food. (D5) ul. Wilcza 29A, tel. 22 891 0285

italian Ave Pizza The argument over who serves Warsaw’s best pizza goes right to the wire, but

NEW MENU

Modern take on Italian cuisine tel.: +48 22 829 69 69 ul. Senatorska 13/15, Warsaw/Old Town restauracja@focaccia.pl, fb.com/restauracjafocaccia www.focaccia.pl

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EAT! Listings there’s no doubting that Ave Pizza are up there on the leaderboard. Set across a sparse, metropolitan area, this fashionable L-shaped joint comes endorsed by the capital’s notoriously picky Italian community. Order the pillowy calzone and you’ll soon learn why. (E3) ul. Topiel 12, tel.

22 828 8507, avepizza.pl DaCurio Although it looks small and humble DaCurio have made quick work of amassing an enthusiastic following. Credit for that rests with the Roman-style pizza that comes sold by the slice. Made using Italian oils and flour, the pizzas here deserve the adulation they’ve received.

(E3) ul. Tamka 45A Delizia The sheer proliferation of Italian restaurants lends an element of chance to dining out: cut through the noise by visiting Delizia, a place that’s consistently topped polls ever since it launched in 2010. Lorenzo’s cooking is upscale Italian with a contemporary twist, and comes presented by Luca, an ebullient ball of energy who patrols the floor with sparkling good humor. In the hands of these two an unforgettable night comes guaranteed. Top quality imported products, a dimly-lit romantic atmosphere, a tasteful design and faultless food: no wonder so many rate this as their favorite Italian. (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 22 622 6665,

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delizia.com.pl Dziurka od Klucza An inviting Italian restaurant in which curious doors sit embedded into the walls, as if waiting to be opened by the keys that hang on the tree outside. Striking a lavender look, the magic of this restaurant is affirmed by its wonderful pasta and intimate style. (E3) ul. Radna 13, tel. 500 150 494, dziurkaodklucza.com.pl

Enoteka This L-shaped space feels completely correct: tall ceilings, big windows, marble floors and an overwhelming sense of light and sun. The mood is good. Food matches the serious wine list and includes a rich topinmabur soup, creamy Agnolloti pasta and a hearty steak. These are not attempts at a kitchen revolution, rather a concentrated focus on a menu that makes sense. (C1) Rynek Nowego Miasta 13/15, enotekapolska.pl Focaccia The Insider’s visit went something like this: wrist-thick octopus with an arc of yellow mousse, conversation stopping beef tenderloin alongside a glistening pool of madeira sauce and then an orange ice cream with caramel and ginger that soon merged into a big gooey brew of

chocolatey mess. The only surprise is there’s no Italian in the kitchen – it appears they don’t need one. This is seriously talented cooking inside an interior that fresh and light and reflective of the food. (D2) ul. Senatorska 13/15, tel. 22 829 6969, focaccia.pl Mąka i Woda Purists applaud an approach that uses a custom-made oven from Naples and imported ingredients such as 00 Caputo flour and DOP certified San Marzano tomatoes. Scrupulously authentic, it’s no wonder that it’s packed to the gunnels every night of the week – even their Facebook page warns of 20-minute waiting times for a table alone. Learning this, some storm off in a huff – they need their heads checked, for this is Warsaw’s best pizza. (D4) ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 91 87 Sexy Duck Marketing themselves as a ‘craft Italian kitchen’, Sexy Duck make a song and dance about artisan this and that while never justifying their own hyperbole. Were they not so keen to tell you otherwise, you’d mistake the food as being something from a mid-market high street chain enterprise. Pl. Konstytucji 3, tel. 22 400 3737 Si From the makers of Secado comes a new

EAT! Listings downtown venture: Si, a fun Italian stop with homemade pasta, an array of pizza and a hefty choice of cocktails. Geared towards good times, a list of rotating daily offers has done a fair job of drumming up trade. (C3) ul. Marszałkowska 115

japanese Benihana Fire, flash, show and sizzle: the Benihana experience merges cooking with cabaret with diners sat ringside around teppanyaki grills. These cooking stations are the stage for the Benihana crew to demonstrate their riveting range of nifty knifework and daredevil antics. Outside of the realm of the grill, the sushi is also strikes the right spot. (C4) ul. Twarda 2/4, benihanapoland.com Fat Buddha A massive project from the same people behind The View: as such, expect a glittery crowd and lux interiors that are polished, sensual and primed for high living.

Reports suggest a faultless Japanese menu that extends beyond sushi: full report next issue! (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 2/4 Izumi Sushi The original location never ceases to amaze with its sushi, though it’s the addition on Biały Kamień that really gets people talking. Here it’s not just the food that wows, but the interiors: a huge venue whose open plan doubles as an indoor forest – you need to see it to believe it.

(D6) ul. Mokotowska 17 (pl. Zbawiciela), tel.

22 825 7950, izumisushi.eu Sakana Sushi Bar Sushi as a fashion statement? That’s what you find in Sakana, a place where the glam and the great of Warsaw peacock around with feathers on display. Ignoring the general vanity and unpleasantness, one can’t help but applaud the sushi – if there was one winner in the sushi wars of the noughties, then Sakana was it. ul. Burakowska 5/7 tel. 22 636 0505, ul. Moliera 4/6, tel. 22 826 5958, & ul.

Wąwozowa 6, lok.10B, tel. 22 498 8899, sakana.pl Sato Gotuje Ochota’s culinary drought is over, and

LEVEL 1 POLISH AND BUSINESS CUISINE

in some style as well. While the plain interiors look bald and boring, the cooking of Satoru Yaegashi is all art and precision: braised duck breast with mustard; fried sardines with roasted sesame seeds; and heaps of homemade udon in warming fish broth. Often outstanding, it’s little wonder that people are arriving in droves from all across town: bookings aren’t mandatory, but they’re definitely advised. ul. Pawińskiego 24 Shoku In local terms, this has to be amongst the most blogged about restaurants of the year thus far. While it actually opened several months back, it’s only now that the place is gathering steam and getting recognized thanks to word-of-mouth.

In truth, it’s not hard to see what the fuss is about: occupying a cool, almost industrial-looking spot not far from the Rising Museum, Shoku offers an excellent menu of Asian-style tapas and small plates inside a buzzy background that’s never short of custom. The tuna steak is recommended. (A4) ul. Karolkowa 30, shoku.pl Sushi Zushi The mania for sushi is in recess, and that’s a good thing – the rogue operators are dead or dying off, and are survived by the best. And make no mistake, Sushi Zushi continue to be one of the No. 1 ex-pat choices. Appreciated by a stunning crowd, the rolls are often bold, creative and always astonishingly fresh.

(D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 420 3373, sushizushi.pl

2 SENATORSKA STREET, WARSAW + 48 22 829 20 50 or + 48 609 608 010 WWW.WARSZAWSKISZNYT.PL FACEBOOK.COM/ WARSZAWSKISZNYTRESTAURANT INSTAGRAM.COM/ WARSZAWSKI_SZNYT

Uki Uki How much do the locals appreciate Warsaw’s original udon bar? Enough to queue outside the door? That’s right. Dining is a close quarters experience here, but is done so without complaint: that electric pasta maker turns out noodles of such chewy goodness that everyone leaves beaming. (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, tel. 728 827 705, ukiuki.pl Wabu Sushi becomes a heaven’s gate spiritual experience in Wabu with the evening passing in a blur of beautiful compositions, of silky slithers of fish crowned with expert pinches of this, and little brush strokes of that. That’s all elevated even

LEVEL 0 MODERN STEAKHOUSE

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EAT! Listings further by deliciously upscale interiors befitting of the Spire location. (A4) Pl. Europejski 2 (Warsaw Spire), wabu.pl YakoTako Naked bar the tables and chairs you eat on, YakoTako takes the concept of Japanese minimalism to extremes. The stripped down approach is also applied to the menu, a simple affair that presents two types of dishes: takoyaki (deep-fried octopus) and okonomiyaki (a cabbagebased pancake). Basic, cheap, but also pretty tasty. (B2) ul. Nowolipki 15

jewish Florentin A quite beautiful, pale-colored dining room that boldly presents the cuisine of modern day Israel. High on North African twists and turns, there’s a creativity at work here that marks Florentin out as one of the most exciting openings in recent times: if in doubt, the veal with harissa, grilled pepper and pear puree is a winning order that deserves full attention. Onto dessert, and make space

for the basil panna cotta served with ‘tomato jam’. (E4) ul. Smolna 40, fb.com/ FlorentinWarszawa Tel Aviv Although this multicultural melting pot is best-known for its Israeli street food, it’s the shift towards ‘vegan fine dining’ that has really caught the attention. (D5) ul.

Poznanska 11, restauracjatelaviv.pl

korean Miss Kimchi Cheap and cheerful Korean street food served in a small, steamy space that’s frequently packed to the rafters. Box sets come piled high with meat, rice and veg.

The spotlight falls on the bibimbap, a satisfying mess of shredded veg, lively spices, a fried egg and beef bulgogi. This is replenishment in its truest form. (B4) ul. Żelazna 58/62, tel. 570 186 066 Onggi Positive transformations aren’t confined to Ramsay’s Kitchen Nightmares: after a dreadful start characterized by bland, claggy dishes, this Korean restaurant has spun a U-turn that’s left the competition reeling. The menu is daunting in size, but contains wildly interesting finds such as a streaky bacon stir fry, spicy pickled Daikon radish and lotus root simmered in soy sauce. (D2) ul. Moliera 2 Sora Buoyed by a surge in Korean expat numbers, Korena cuisine found itself cresting in 2016. Yet despite the increasingly competitive market, Sora is commonly accepted as the ruler of the roost. The tabletop BBQ sets are an essential order and ideal for the shared bonding experience. It’s even better with copious quantities of Makkoli wine. (A4) ul. Wronia 45

latin & spanish Casa Pablo “We give Spanish food a new twist,” declares chef Gonzalo de Salas, which explains why, in between pungent cheeses and acorn-fed Bellota ham, we

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EAT! Listings find ourselves demolishing a variety of dishes that buck all notions of tradition: as a starter the beetroot-marinated salmon served with wasabi emulsion is a fine example of this. With de Salas performing balletic tricks in the kitchen, Casa Pablo presents a masterful menu that ripples with adventure. (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5A, tel.

22 324 5781, casapablo.pl

a Magic Eye of kaleidoscope patterns.

A great place for sharing and general interaction, the ambiance and quality belies the corporate anonymity of the location. Though the gazapcho is first class it’s bettered by the patatas bravos: fried potatoes in a ballsy tomato sauce.

(A4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 251 1310, tapasbar.pl

Mojo Picon Smart and atmospheric yet still pleasingly casual, the early feedback has been healthy. Specializing in Hispanic cuisine, especially that of the Canary Islands, specific strengths include a broad selection of Spanish wines, artfully composed tapas and a paella for the purists. A smaller operation the size of a mouse hole operates on Poznanska. ul. Prosta 53, mojopicon.pl

Restaurante Bunuel Spanish-owned Bunuel has left many in raptures. Simple interiors focus attention on the food, which in this case involves a crisp gazpacho that gets you missing summer, and grilled meats that leave many in a swoon. (H4) ul. Walecznych 61, tel. 798 659 554, bunuel-restauracja.com

Tapas Gastrobar The popular practice is to order so many plates and bottles that the table becomes

mexican Dos Tacos Who doesn’t like asking for something

that’s ‘under the counter’. In the case of Dos Tacos, doing so means inquiring about their range of ‘salsa clandestinas’: extra hot sauces designed for reckless thrill-seekers. But the true secret weapon at Dos Tacos is Isabel Balderas, a Mexican chef that has mastered the bright, bold tastes of her native country. This cuisine has enjoyed a breakout year in Warsaw, but while the millennials clamor over new food trucks and funky little start-ups, Dos Tacos is a timely reminder that the old guard sometimes know best. (D4) ul.

Jasna 22, tel. 22 243 4618, dostacos.pl El Barrio Famed for his long association with El Popo, chef Angel Aceves Vivanco has teamed up with Lourdes Estrada to create a cheerful-looking spot on the fringe of New Town. Ringing with colorful patterns and mosaics, the effect – like the food itself – is simple but reassuringly lively.

On the Insider’s visit, that meant a hefty chicken burrito given a viper’s bite thanks

The recently opened restaurant and bar Mokotowska 69 is a perfect place for those who enjoy refined food and excellent wine. The restaurant offers classic Polish dishes with a modern twist, delicious steaks and a wide range of wine from all over the world. Mokotowska 69 was designed for those who enjoy Polish cuisine and those who would like to try classic Polish dishes with a modern twist, such as Mazurian crayfish in rowan brandy cream sauce, roasted catfish with pearl barley and beets or roasted duck with pears and blackcurrant. The restaurant also specialises in steaks made from American Black Angus (certified prime grade by the USDA), Scottish Aberdeen Angus and the highest quality Japanese Tajima-gyu cattle, “Kobe-style”: class 5, marbling 9+.

ul. Mokotowska 69, tel. (+48 22) 628 73 84 / (+48 22) 627 20 33, www.mokotowska69.pl

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EAT! Listings to a chili habanero salsa – but inconsistencies are plentiful and need to be resolved – fast! (C1) ul. Długa 6, elbarrio.pl Gringo Bar A Mexican wave is upon us, and high time too. After years of suffering frozen ingredients, timid flavors and daft Mariachi music to persuade us it’s all authentic, a raft of new cut-price eateries are showing the rest how it’s done.

Cooked and folded by fist bumping lads in back-to-front caps and baggy t-shirts, the food at Gringo is fiery, fresh and full of zing. There are detractors who claim this is a Polonized version of this cuisine, but the informal Gringo remains one of the market leaders. (E9) ul. Odolańska 15, tel.

22 848 9523, gringobar.pl La Sirena Creamy guacamole the color of Kermit; cocktails that are both vicious and delicious; and drunken beans full of heart and vim. But La Sirena gets even

better, particularly with the short ribs burrito and a readjusted ‘almost death salsa’ that’s learned to say POW. Add to this a machete-laden interior that draws inspiration from the ultra-violent films of Danny Trejo, and you understand why this tiny, backstreet cantina has become the talk of the town. At no point in its history has Warsaw enjoyed better Mexican food.

(D5) ul. Piękna 54 Maria Kolendra The most likable trend of the past year?

That’ll be Warsaw’s growing mania for Mexican food. Set in a small ‘pavilion’ building out in the Służew boonies, such is the authenticity that its loyal band of devotees see nothing wrong in traipsing across the city for a taste of Luis and Armando’s tacos and burritos. ul.

Puławska 246 Urban Burritos It’s here, in this unassuming subterranean world, that people gather for what is

Restaurant & Pastry Shop Warsaw, Żurawia 47/49, open: 7.00 - 22.00 reservations: tel. +48 (22) 621 82 68 Pastry Shop Warsaw, Pl. Grzybowski 2, open: 9.00 - 20.00 Warsaw, Felińskiego 52, open: 9.00 - 20.00

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being hyped as Warsaw’s top burrito.

Offering fillings of pork, beef, chicken and Portobello mushroom, wraps come expertly constructed and served with salsas that sing with gusto. Set within shouting distance of the US Embassy, peak times see Urban Burritos fill to the seams with America’s finest. (D6) ul.

Piękna 22, urbanburritos.pl

middle eastern Falafel Bejrut Light, bright and buzzing with custom, this cheerful venture has a small scattering of seating and an expanded menu whose talking point is award-winning falafel. The hummus, too, is pretty amazing. (B2) ul.

Nowolipki 15 Falafel Bejrut Moliera 8 Falafel Bejrut have grown from life as a ‘food bike’ outside Hala Mirowska, to

EAT! Listings a runaway juggernaut in the heart of Warsaw. Both the falafel and hummus are exceptional, and you’ll find their latest venue also serving artisanal vegan ice cream from Vegestacja. (D2) ul. Moliera 8

Le Cedre With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops. (E1) Al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166, lecedre.pl

Le Cedre 84 Le Cedre just keep on getting it right.

Authenticity is key in this chainlette (well, there’s another across the river), as you’ll discover when talking to Tony, the Lebanese owner. To see the diversity of this cuisine, order the balbaak (six cold starters) or the byblos (six hot).

And food aside, it’s the atmosphere that carries them that extra yard: the whole philosophy of this cuisine is to share and share alike, making it a uniquely engaging experience when dining with friends.

(B3) Al. Solidarności 84, tel. 22 618 8999, lecedre.pl Le Cedre Lounge Furnished in voluptuous Middle Eastern style, the latest subsidiary of the Le Cedre empire bursts with fancy sheesha pipes, extravagant rugs and shimmery satin drapes. It’s a look that’s fun, familiar, intimate and warm. Less encyclopedic than that of its two sister ventures, Le Cedre Lounge has a slimmer menu that introduces several new tastes to fans of Lebanese cuisine. Helplessly more-ish, it’s food that’s in line with the vibey atmosphere and casual air. (C4) ul.

Grzybowska 5A, lecedre.pl Samira There was something a little seedy about Samira’s old location, but that’s all forgotten in their new digs on Powsińska. Find this great Lebanese supermarket filling

a dual role as an authentic restaurant serving authentic dishes such as kafta and shawarma. ul. Powsińska 64a, tel. 22 825 3363, samira.pl Shuk Located behind Hala Banacha in this gradually blooming district of Warsaw, SHUK’s certainly worth the tram ride if you’re not a native Ochotian. An offshoot of the acclaimed Mezze, highlights on our visit included a well-seasoned Arabic soup with lentils and spinach followed by a skillet of fried oyster mushrooms cooked with onions and served alongside harissa topped with rose petals. You’re looking at quite a special place that realigns your mojo on an ashen Warsaw day. ul. Grójecka 127

STEAKHOUSE /BAR

Sokotra Casting a warm, steamy glow over this corner of Wilcza, Sokotra reveals itself as a well-designed nook with a rough, urban edge: telegraph poles, bare bulbs and exposed lumps of concrete. Yemeni dishes are available though it’s the Indian food that shines – the Madras is intense, pungent and suitably fiery. (D5) ul. Wilcza 27, tel. 22 270 2766, sokotra.pl

polish

Ale Gloria Who said romance was dead? Here wedding white colors are fused with a strawberry motif inside this gourmet fave.

Keeping patrons returning are aromatic dishes with a contemporary twist – try the duck in rose sauce. (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7080, alegloria.pl Bazyliszek Some parts of Bazyliszek hark to its years as a stately, stuffy restaurant. Now though it’s more earthy, with Jurassic portions of meaty, lardy food best consumed with one-liter beers. The Rynek location and festive atmosphere account for its popularity more than anything that comes from the kitchen. (D1) Rynek Starego Miasto 1/3, tel. 22 831 1841, bazyliszek. waw.pl

Nowogrodzka 47a www.beefandpepper.pl reservation: (+48) 785 025 025 Open 7 days a week Monday-Saturday: 12.00-24.00 Sunday: 12.00-23.00

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EAT! Listings Bar Gdański First created in the 1950’s, Bar Gdański has operated on Andersa 33 since the very birth of this showpiece Socialist Realist housing block. Closed in spring, it’s now been rescued, revamped and finally reopened. Offering a modernized slant on the traditional milk bar experience, it’s been ‘adapted for the 21st century whilst also remaining sensitive to the past.

Drawing a wide variety of locals – young and old, rich and broke – the food is simple, hearty, classic Polish. Great place, great value. (B1) ul. Andersa 33, fb.com/ bargdanskimuranow Belvedere Łazienki Królewskie Set in an imperial age glass orangery, it’s festooned with intricate latticework and botanical exotica. The updated interiors are the work of acclaimed set designer Boris Kudlicka, and lend a fresh, contemporary tone that goes hand in hand with the menu. But behind the gels and emulsions and pretty little swirls,

this is cooking of substantial depth; it’s cooking that takes you to the very soul of Polish nature. ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. 22 558 6701, belvedere.com.pl

tyrants, staff dressed like obedient members of the party’s Youth League deliver hefty dishes from a cheeky menu that is in itself a collector’s item. (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 22 850 3144, czerwonywieprz.pl

Bez Gwiazdek Hide the white tablecloth! One of the more discernible trends of 2016 saw chefs attempt to replicate fine dining standards but in casual surrounds. Few are more qualified to do so than Robert Trzópek, a man whose résumé includes experience gained in Noma and El Bulli. Seeking to ‘reinterpret forgotten Polish cuisine’, his tasting menu at Bez Gwiazdek leaves no doubt why local food fans repeat his name with reverence and awe. For this restaurant, 2017 promises to get even bigger. (E3) ul. Wiślana 8, bezgwiazdek. com.pl Czerwony Wieprz (Red Hog) An amusing restaurant that looks back at communism through a rose-tinted lens.

Under the glowering gaze of commie

Delicja Polska Looking stately (pink bows, gilt touches and immaculate linen) but never stuffy, Delicja have a modern Polish menu that includes sous-vide salmon marinated in beetroot leaves, then topped with horseradish foam and dill emulsion. Brilliant.

But then so was everything else we tried, including the exquisite seasoned roast beef. (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 64, tel. 22 826 4770, delicjapolska.pl Dom Polski Almost like it was designed for the manor born, Dom Polski has the rarefied

Whether it’s breakfast, lunch or a romantic dinner, we invite you for an extraordinary culinary experience...

Enjoy the summer vibe on a beautiful terrace with garden views.

Aleje Ujazdowskie 13 0 0 - 5 6 7 Wa r s z a w a Te l : + 4 8 5 2 3 6 6 6 4 E-mail: recepcja@amberroom.pl w w w. a m b e r r o o m . p l

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EAT! Listings atmosphere of a country retreat: bow-tied staff who click their heels, decorative antiques and a menu that’s a sumptuous anthology of posh Polish cooking. When you need to give visitors a sense of classic Warsaw, Dom Polski is the first out of the hat. (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 2432, restauracjadompolski.pl Dom Polski Belwederska Accessed via curling pathways and bursting shrubs this restaurant conjures images of an aristocrat’s manor. The air of privilege matches a menu that’s rich in fanciful classics such as their signature goose. Elegant and exquisite, consider it your default choice for a taste of true Poland. (F8) ul. Belwederska 18A, tel. 22 840 5060, restauracjadompolski.pl Elixir by Dom Wódki There are some who call the food here ‘deconstructed Polish’. In actuality, ‘reconstructed’ would be closer to the mark. Chef Michał Tkaczyk has taken

local classics and redrafted the recipes with the swoosh of a contemporary pen.

The outcome is a pleasure from start to finish: a life affirming żurek, a tartar that could fulfill ambassadorial duties for Poland, and a handsome beef tenderloin sprinkled with crispy potato shavings.

Thoughtful pairings with lesser-known, boutique vodkas add another dimension that serves to complete this pleasing, patriotic adventure. (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl Folk Gospoda If you missed the last train to Zakopane, then a night in Folk Gospoda is the next best thing. Kitted out like a typical tavern in the Tatras, it’s a good-humored celebration of mountain-slope traditions: heaps of meat and lard with plenty of vodka and song in between. (B3) ul. Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605, folkgospoda.pl Jaś & Małgosia Insouciant one moment, your best friend

the next, the staff at Jaś & Małgosia show the two faces of Polish service brilliantly.

Reactivated a couple of years ago, this gem has a story dating back to the 60s, and a great atmosphere primed for simple food and local drinks. (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 57, tel. 502 033 711, klubjasimalgosia.pl Kafe Zielony Niedzwiedź The Green Bear has turned into the mothership for all things relating to slow food: if in doubt, check the menu, an ode to provenance that comes complete with detailed biographies of their suppliers.

Using creative techniques, this restaurant modernizes Polish food and rolls it out inside a stylish building popular with people who look like they might well be famous. (E4) ul. Smolna 4, tel. 731 996 006, kafezn.pl Kieliszki na Próżnej You’ll find Kieliszki na Próżnej, the latest restaurant to mark the rehabilitation of

AUTHENTIC POLISH CUISINE

Krakowskie Przedmieście 64 tel. +48 22 826 4770 email. info@delicjapolska.pl www.delicjapolska.pl

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EAT! Listings Próżna, so named after the 1,116 wineglasses that hang tantalizingly over the bar. As an anchor feature the suspended glassware is arresting, and equaled only by a long stretch of wall art doodled by Mariusz Tarkawian. The food matches up to the interiors, with a modern Polish menu that – on our visit – involved a thick, brilliantly spreadable foie gras pate, a thick slab of brawn and a delicate piece of moist Baltic cod. It’s pure seasonal comfort. (C3) ul. Próżna 12, tel. 501 764 674, kieliszkinaproznej.pl Mała Polana Smaków BEST WAWA 2016 “Modern Polish” Put simply, it works on every level: from the service to the space – outside, a terrace featuring upcycled crates overlooking Morskie Oko, and on the inside, a cute little room with woodsy bits and big glass jars of mystery ingredients. It’s casual, but still fit for more serious roles: e.g. girlfriend night. And the food: exceptional.

Lots of seasonally changing choices that on our visit meant salmon sausage matched with beetroot and horseradish sauce along with pinches of lavender and fennel. (F9) ul. Belwederska 13/44, tel. 22 400 8048, polanasmakow.pl Opasły Tom Sneaked off a lively side street, guests duck down into a chain of two narrow-ish chambers that, whilst not exactly casual, feel comfortable and familiar. Reliant on

the freshest local ingredients around, this restaurant’s strategy places an onus on seasonality whilst remaining fiercely creative. (E4) ul. Foksal 17, kregliccy.pl Papu Evoking the spirit of a gentleman’s manor, Papu looks every inch the classic Polish restaurant. Reliant on regional produce from mom & pop farmsteads, chef Bartek Kędra’s menu does a gold carat job of enhancing old-fashioned recipes through the use of modern techniques. (D9) al. Niepodległości 132/136, tel.

22 856 7788, restauracjapapu.pl Prasowy Delicate diners turn their back on milk bars, yet this canteen-style phenomenon, with its history rooted in communism, has enjoyed a remarkable renaissance and a freshly found popularity with a new generation. Sure, the food is an acquired taste and best described using words like ‘basic’, ‘bland’ and ‘honest’, but Prasowy gets our vote for a cool design that’s seen the 1954 interiors sensitively updated.

(E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16

Restauracja Pod Gigantami All pomp and splendor, huge portraits of monarchs in ermine stare down from

the walls; pristine parquet floors gently creak underfoot; from another chamber, the sound of clinking glasses whispers through the air. Yet as much as the interior makes an impact it fails to steal the show.

That belongs to Paweł Zieliński, a chef whose biography includes a stint at the Michelin starred L’Ecrivain in Dublin. Now back in Poland, his menu is a patriotic proclamation of all that is good. It’s here the Insider enjoyed its favorite żurek of 2016. (E5) Al. Ujadowskie 24, tel. 22 629 2312, podgigantami.pl Restauracja Polska “Różana” The rarified atmosphere of Różana is a pleasure indeed. Close to the frontline of Mokotów / Śródmieście, you’d never guess the proximity of the center. Seated in their garden, one feels removed from the city – a fountain burbles quietly in the background, starlings hop around the trees. From the inside, one hears the distant tinkle of the house pianist. Just being here is a thrill in itself, and the food is a Polish dining extravaganza served from the top table: farmhouse duck, saddle of venison, etc. (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 22 848 1225, restauracjarozana.com.pl Słoik Jarheads will love Słoik, a place lined with glass jars brimming with colorful ingredients and bright preserves. Find natural Polish produce and traditionalsounding dishes treated with a careful

w

The award-winning Enoteka Polska welcomes guests to the heart of Warsaw’s historic New Town. A perfect combo of restaurant, wine bar and wine store, aside from offering excellent Italian cuisine, we are a renowned importer with a portfolio of prestigious wine labels from across Europe. Our direct import policy allows guests to enjoy outstanding value for money.

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Rynek Nowego Miasta 13/15, enotekapolska.pl tel. 882 048 012

EAT! Listings and contemporary hand. The approach pits modernist against classic, and the winner is, well, you. This is traditional Polish food updated for the discerning, latter day palate – and it’s really quite something. (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 600 396 688, restauracjasloik.pl Solec 44 Solec 44 does nothing if not challenge gastronomic norms. Found on the upper floor of a shabby Communist pavilion, the versatility of this place makes it great to hang out with friends over beer and board games: it’s not often you find faces from the TV in the same room as student types, but that’s the kind of inclusive atmosphere here. The biggest draw though is the chef, Aleksander Baron.

Combing the farms and forests of Poland for ingredients, his obsession with old baroque recipes, nose-to-tail cooking and forgotten fermentation processes is inspiring to all who adore cooking. (F4) ul.

Solec 44, tel. 798 363 996, solec.waw.pl Stary Dom A classic restaurant in style and history: back in the day it was a favorite haunt of jockeys and race goers from the horse track nearby. Pre-war recipes form the basis of the menu, with the team using seasonal produce and the latest technology to bring out its best. ul. Puławska 104/106, tel. 22 646 4208, restauracjastarydom.pl

U Fukiera New arrivals looking to get a grasp of local cuisine have many options in varying price brackets. U Fukiera is definitely in the big spend category, but visitors come away with a common sense of wonderment. That’s largely due to enchanting interiors that have guests exploring twinkling chambers that unravel like a fairytale. Set in a 500 year old townhouse, the beautiful backdrop is accompanied by a grand menu of duck, venison, veal and lamb. (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 27 (Old Town Market Square), tel. 22 831 1013, ufukiera.pl

Zapiecek Seven Warsaw locales, with our favorite found in the vaulted passages of Świętojańska. The menu is highly traditional, with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’. It’s for the pierogi though for which they’re famous; find approx. fifty types delivered by servers dressed like saucy country maids. Locations inc. ul. Nowy Świat 64, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska 13, tel.

22 635 61 09, & ul. Wańkowicza 1, open 11:00-22:00, CH Arkadia, zapiecek.eu Warszawski Sen By Mateusz Gessler A quite stunning restaurant dominated

by dark geometric patterns and the installations and ideas of guerilla artist Tomasz Górnicki. Once you’ve caught your breath and snapped off a few pics for your Instagram, settle in for a menu that gives Polish ingredients a highly contemporary treatment. If you thought Hala Koszyki was buzzing, then this edgy space is perhaps its biggest buzz of all. ul.

Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki), mateuszgessler.com.pl Zielnik A quiet Mokotów side street is the setting for this little secret. In it, flowers, lots of them, and a warming wood interior just right for winter. In summer, head instead to their glorious garden across the street in the park: adding a sophisticated twist to the holy grill, the skewered lamb is to die for. (D10) ul. Odyńca 15, tel. 22 844 3500, restauracjazielnik.pl

russian Skamiejka As a social point, this family-run restaurant works incredibly well. Located at the far end of Ząbkowska, it’s a place filled with assorted clutter and Russian bits and pieces: album covers, books, jars of pickles and jumble sale finds. The welcome is second-to-none, while beverages include a wide range of vodka and

PRESENTING THE MOST BEAUTIFUL RESTAURANT IN POLAND

Al. Ujazdowskie 24, tel. 22 629 2312, www.podgigantami.pl

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EAT! Listings beer from the former Soviet-bloc nations.

The food though is a bit of a massacre.

Take the zharkoe: what should be a thick and hefty pot roast is limp and placid and empty of taste. ul. Ząbkowska 37, tel. 512 123 967, fb.com/skamiejka

scandinavian Nabo The décor is, we’re told, typical Danish cafe – bold open windows, simple lines, high shelves filled with books and games on the table. But what is Danish food? There’s Old Danish on the menu: meatballs and open face sandwiches with meat and fish in various textural configurations and then there’s New Danish: an emerging trend towards fresh, seasonal food (no microwave oven at Nabo), with locally sourced and innovatively concocted ingredients. ul.

Zakręt 8, tel. 22 842 0256, nabocafe.pl

seafood Lokal na Rybę Seafood doesn’t play a particularly distinguished role in Warsaw’s culinary history, so the opening of a good fish restaurant tends to get the locals talking. But Lokal isn’t just good, it goes several steps beyond. Open just three days a week (Thu-Sat, evenings only), the rotating menu presents a handful of daily choices against a simple, no pretense interior that’s often packed solid – reservations come recommended, as do the mussel dishes. (D9) ul. Kwiatowa 1/3/4 U Rysia Devoid of frills bar a glowing neon sign and a brooding mural of Jesus, it looks like a Polish fish restaurant should – basic

but with an undercurrent of bustle that keeps the mood bright. It tastes like the real thing as well. Sourcing their catch from the freshwater lakes of northern Poland, the offer is divided into fish that have been smoked, steamed, fried or baked. Check out the perch ‘chips’ fried in batter. (C4) ul. Marszałkowska 140 (enter from ul. Rysia), urysia.com.pl

specialty food shops Bazar Olkuska Once a sad little side street, Olkuska has evolved to become just about the worst kept secret in Warsaw. Home to the city’s top eco-market, trips here end with shopping bags filled with French cheeses, Italian hams, Hungarian sausages and fresh fruit and veg. (E10) ul. Olkuska 12

TASTING NOTES The Place: sumptuous yet classy and contemporary, the gorgeous interiors of this restored manor are rivaled only by the serene garden terrace.

The Chef: Robert Skubisz has become something of an ambassador for Polish culinary values having represented the country in numerous international competitions such as the 2016 IKA Culinary Olympics.

The Effect: “we never want to over-do the flavors,” says Robert Skubisz, “but at the same time, we want to create something unique, stunning and emotive.”

The Menu: adapted to the seasons, the menu breaks boundaries and embraces modernity whilst at the same time valuing traditional concepts of taste.

The Amber Room Al. Ujazdowskie 13, amber-room.pl

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Soak up the sun on our summer terrace or cool off inside the air-conditioned newly opened Le Cedre Lounge

Le Cedre 61

(opposite the zoo) Al. Solidarności 61, Praga Tel 22 670 1166

Le Cedre Lounge Grzybowska 5A Tel 22 299 7299

www.lecedre.pl

Le Cedre 84

(opposite the court) Al. Solidarności 84 Tel 22 618 8999

EAT! Listings Befsztyk The Prokopowicz family has come a long way since launching Befsztyk in 1994.

Top restaurants, celebs and ex-pats are listed as clients, and all agree that this operation is indisputably ‘top of the chops’. Find steaks seasoned for three weeks, gluten-free smoked meats, Merino lamb, BBQ kits and so much more. Home delivery, internet ordering and Englishspeaking staff round out this legend. many locations, befsztyk.pl Bio Bazar Fruit and veg in the first warehouse, some of it imported from as far as Argentina. In the second warehouse, find organic cheese varieties from sheep and goats, as well as import brands from Italy, France and the Netherlands. (B4) ul. Żelazna 51/53, tel. 22 318 8855, biobazar. org.pl British Shop British food and beverages inc. cider,

bacon, sausages, gluten free ready meals, confectionary etc. Run by the same team who once operated Fish & Chips on Koszykowa, the offer has now expanded to cover non-food items like Royal Wedding souvenirs, England football paraphernalia etc. (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 8, tel. 692 240 804 The Crazy Butcher Grzegorz Kwapniewski, better known as ‘Warsaw’s celebrity butcher’, has a new store in town, that being a corner unit in Hala Koszyki. Named by chefs across town as their principal source of meat, Kwapniewski’s offer includes Polish Red Angus, long-seasoned, marbled beef, not to mention veal, lamb, poultry and cured meats from small scale producers. ul.

Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki) Dobrze Co-op The Dobrze Food Co-op aims to ‘widen access to healthy, seasonal food’ while also supporting sustainable agriculture.

Founded in summer, 2014, the project collaborates with over 20 farms and local businesses and sells fresh vegetables and fruit alongside cereals, dried goods and other bits and pieces. ul. Wilcza 29A & ul. Andersa 27, dobrze.waw.pl Forteca Kregliccy Spot the stars of Warsaw’s restaurant scene perusing the stalls at this weekly farmers’ market. Held each Wednesday, look for Pan Ziółko, Poland’s first celebrity farmer (!), Portobello’s from the country’s only organic mushroom farm and the magical yogurts from Mleczna Droga Manufaktura Serów. ul. Zakroczymska 12, kregliccy.eu/forteca Heritage Some people use Heritage as a wine bar, while others see it as more than that.

And so it is. Peruse the Italian hams and cheeses in their fridge, olive oils, sauces and of course wine. Lots and lots of wine.

(D6) ul. Mokotowska 17, tel. 22 857 0912

LUNCH

35 zł

ul. Plac Teatralny 3, Warsaw, tel: 601 81 82 83, info@thaithai.waw.pl, www.thaithai.pl Warszawa, Sopot, Gdańsk, Poznań

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EAT! Listings Kosher Shop Snuck to the side of the synagogue, stock up on Kosher produce from the friendly store, before hitting up the falafel tent outside for, aside from the obvious, kosher ice cream. (C4) ul. Twarda 6

but above all, an idyllic way to spend a Saturday morning in a beautiful part of town. Now also present in three other locations: check their web for details.

Al. Wojska Polskiego, tel. 508 121 891, targsniadaniowy.pl

Kuchnie Świata The first stop for most ex-pats, with an offer that includes food and drinks from across the globe. The choice is vast but mainly involves tinned and packaged products. Internet ordering now also available. Various locations, kuchnieswiata. com.pl

Trawa A tight little store whose surprisingly copious food offer (which includes fresh fruit and veg from local markets) is complemented by all kinds of natural unguents, balms, oils and suchlike including those from the celebrated Lavera brand. Highly recommended. Pl. Grzybowski 10

Marks & Spencer Visit the surviving Marszałkowska branch to take advantage of the on-site bakery, but visit early as choice diminishes early.

Aside from baked goods find a widely appreciated frozen food section that include British sausages. Stop press now closed. ul. Marszałkowska 104/122, tel. 22 551 7553, marks-and-spencer.com.pl

steak houses

Mojo Picon Mojo Picon specializes in vending Spanish groceries, expressly the produce of the Canary Islands. A creditable charcuterie section is enhanced by an array of cheese, wine and jarred exotica. (D5) ul. Poznańska 3, mojopicon.pl Ostra Kuchnia A superb internet shop retailing quite literally the hottest sauces known to man: brands include Blair’s, Dave’s, El Yucateco, Mad Dog, Melinda’s and many more besides. Also sell jalapenos, chili peppers, salsas and pastes. Polish-only website, but easy to navigate and superb customer service. ostrakuchnia.pl Samira Now in bigger and better premises, this Lebanese supermarket offers a comprehensive rundown of imported goods that ranges from spices, preserves and rubs to nuts, olives, teas and soft drinks. ul. Powsińska 64A, tel. 22 825 3363, samira.pl Targ Śniadaniowy The idea is a bit different as it is out in the open air, on the grass, so good weather is a must. Part healthy food market, part breakfast picnic, part educational space, part chance to get your two wheeler fixed

Beef n’ Pepper A social space that encourages friends to gather and make merry over big meaty courses. Served on heavy tree stump plates, steaks here use Polish Angus aged for a 28-day period. If you’re into the concept of sharing with your fellow man, then the Beef n’Pepper plate offers a pile of everything: wings, ribs, steak.

(C5) ul. Nowogrodzka 47A, tel. 785 025 025, beefandpepper.pl

‘Simplicity, elegance and atmosphere’

Cafe • Wine Bar • Restaurant • Whisky Bar • Wine Cellar ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 515 037 001 www.hoza.warszawa.pl www.facebook.com/hoza25 Open 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-21:00

Butchery & Wine The Sarf London-born Bertha oven has revolutionized the way steak is cooked, retaining moisture in a way no-one thought possible. Expect robust pieces of animal full of big, brawny tastes, but there’s so much more than just meat: starters involve a sea bass ceviche that pings with citrusy flavor not to mention more-ish pork crackling that pop like fire bangers in the mouth. A place of energy and ambition, it’s a great mix of both new and classic. Bookings advised. (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 502 3118, butcheryandwine.pl Downtown Restaurant There’s now a few candidates for Warsaw’s best steak, and Downtown have certainly upped the erm, stakes, with their new menu. Yes, the doors of Downtown are a gateway to heaven – particularly true if, like us, your vision of heaven is a rich green field filled with fat, juicy cows. warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings But don’t for one moment assume the offer ends with cows. (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental Hotel, level 2), tel. 22 328 8745

with charcoal colors and punches of lime, the Insider felt good long after visiting.

Will you? (E8) ul. Puławska 27, tel. 22 126 1943, basil-lime.pl

Ed Red Warszawa can tell they’re serious about their meat just by looking at the starters: big, juicy marrow bones, mountain oysters, blood sausage and calf’s brain. The steaks are the calling card though, and here you’ll find them dry aged and consumed with the aid of hunting knives. The desserts seem a lumpy afterthought, but they get enough right elsewhere (even decent craft beer at the bar) to keep that little more than a mild annoyance. Pl. Mirowski 1, edred.pl

Silk & Spicy If you don’t benchmark Silk & Spicy against what you’d eat in Asia (and you really shouldn’t), then you might enjoy it.

“The curry was on taste-wise,” said our disappointed graphic, “but the cream cheese didn’t work in the sushi and the kmichi-style salad served at the beginning was very pedestrian for such a place.”

(D5) ul. Żurawia 16/20, tel. 22 629 701

Hoża Wine and steak: it sounds so simple, but Hoża have taken two simple pleasures to another level. It’s an ebullient space with service right out of charm school, and a kitchen team with a real knowledge of cows. A red-blooded affair, the menu is a steak sensation and well paired with a handpicked wine list. (D5) ul. Hoża 25A, tel.

603 778 275, hoza.warszawa.pl Merliniego 5 A classic looking steakhouse that swirls in shadow, brickwork and elegant touches, it’s a place to immerse yourself in an atmosphere that’s all surreptitious conversation and distant clinking glasses. The steaks are out-of-this world, with USDA prime beef from New York’s legendary Ottomanelli & Sons and Scottish beef from London’s Smithfield Market. On our last visit we splurged on the Grade 9+ wagyu ‘kobe’ rib-eye and found ourselves eating the steak of a lifetime. (E10) ul. Merliniego 5, tel. 22 646 0810, merliniego5.pl

thai Basil & Lime Reports have been hit and miss, with one Insider noting calamitous service and food that was both over and undercooked. Not on our visit, though. Short and to the point, the menu is defined by its clarity, and we enjoyed a phenomenal yellow curry and banana fritters with the right combo of crunch and goo. Beautifully decorated

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Thai Me Up Taking the spot once occupied by Papaya, Thai Me Up offers up a far more informal experience than the former, something understood by one glance at the interior: gone are the gloss finishes of yesteryear, replaced by something far more casual, fun and cluttered (check the monkey lights!). As for the food, that succeeds in bringing the fresh, snappy tastes of Asia to Foksal. The wok dishes are a forte. (E4) ul. Foksal 16, thaimeup.pl

Thai Thai In terms of design it’s little short of perfect: gold vaulted interiors lend a muted glow to a largely black on black space while serene looking Buddha’s peer on the diners below. As for the food, that’s one big success story with plenty of lively flavors and dynamic colors. The Tom Yang Kung, a deeply nourishing fish broth that awakens the senses with a sharp, spicy jolt, is a must! (C2) Pl. Teatralny 3, tel. 601 818 283, thaithai.pl Thaisty The coup here has been the recruitment of Chanunkan Duangkumma, Warsaw’s favorite Thai chef. The menu has street food inspirations and also includes several recipes passed down Duangkumma’s family line: consider the BBQ beef skewers essential. Vivid colors and a busy open kitchen lend the place a happy buzz that lasts through the day. (C2) Pl. Bankowy 4, tel. 730 000 024, thaisty.pl Why Thai A calming, almost holistic interior sets

the tone for a meal dominated by the rich and aromatic tastes of Thailand. For a lively, spicy start begin with a mango and cashew salad, before moving forward and onto their celebrated curries. Imported chefs keep the flavors authentic, with the pad Thai being something of a house favorite. (E5) ul. Wiejska 13, tel. 22 625 7698, whythai.pl Wi-Taj There is the odd moment of madness (glazed cherries appearing at random), but in general Wi-Taj does a grand job of representing a kitchen that hasn’t always enjoyed the greatest publicity in Warsaw.

The crunchy, perky nem are a fine way to start, but it’s the steaming bowls of pho that have this Insider promising to return.

As for prices, these rarely climb north of zł. 30. (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 4

vietnamese Oh My Pho A busy, family-run joint, OMP’s specific claim to fame is what many are terming the best and most authentic pho in the ward. Steamy and aromatic, this is pho as it should be: full of big herby thwacks, ribboning noodles, and soft strips of meat in a clear, restorative stock. Often cited as being the ‘soul of the nation’, just a few noisy slurps are all that’s needed to corroborate the life-affirming goodness of this beautiful broth... (D5) ul. Wilcza 32, fb.com/ohmyphowilcza Toan Pho Toan Pho’s bowls of soup with rice noodles come highly recommended; as does the chaos intrinsic to this type of casual Asian eatery. The short menu is in Vietnamese with Polish decoding – although you can ask for an English version. (D4) ul. Chmielna 5/7 Viet Street Food Bistro What started out as a roaming food truck has settled down into life as a legitimate restaurant. Widely looked upon as the source of the best Vietnamese chow this city’s ever seen, the small menu reveals steaming bowls of pho and banh mi baguettes loaded with meat and greens.

(H4) ul. Królowej Aldony 5/2, fb.com/ vietstreetfoodpl

Restaurant Słoik ul. Złota 11 (Pasaż Wiecha) kontakt@restauracjasloik.pl +48 600 396 688

RESTAURANT

www.restauracjasloik.pl facebook.com/restauracja.sloik instagram.com/sloik_zlota_11

COCKTAILBAR

DJ EVERY WEEKEND

BREAKFAST

HOMEMADE DUMPLINGS

Restaurant Si ul. Marszałkowska 115 kontakt@restauracjasi.pl +48 507 099 190

www.restauracjasi.pl facebook.com/restauracjaSi instagram.com/restauracja_Si

HOMEMADE PASTA AND ITALIAN DISHES LIVE MUSIC

EVENTS

ORGANIC & VEGAN WINES

COCKTAILS

DJ EVERY WEEKEND

COMPLIMENTARY BREAKFAST WITH EVERY HOT BEVERAGE

Restaurant Secado ul. Marszałkowska 66 kontakt@secado.com.pl +48 608 707 799

RESTAURANT

www.secado.com.pl facebook.com/SECADO instagram.com/restauracja_secado

COCKTAILBAR

BUSINESS LUNCH

CORPORATE DINNER

DJ EVERY WEEKEND

DRINK!

PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

FULL OF BEANS

Having already made a big splash in Wrocław, Etno have found themselves surfacing in Warsaw with something of a reputation to uphold. This they do successfully thanks to pure Arabica sourced from the highlands of Abyssinia. Yet while Ethiopian coffee is perhaps the most prominent, the coffee of Kenya, Rwanda, El Salvador and Brazil all also figure in the line-up. Despite being part of a wider chain, Etno feels more like a bridge between the international high street giants and the smaller boutique coffee houses run as independent concerns. With further expansion looking likely, now’s the time to catch them.

Etno Cafe ul. Marszałkowska 87, etnocafe.pl

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Drink! Pub Crawl

17:00

Snack TIme

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Oleandrów + Surrounds

Saturday Night Fever

Once seen as a dormant zombie zone, the Oleandrów area has stirred from its slumber to become one of alternative Warsaw’s top pub crawls...

BY ALEX WEBBER | PHOTOS BY ED WIGHT

17:00 Chmielarnia Marszałkowska

ul. Marszałkowska 10/16

19:30

Whoever thought it was a good idea to pair Indian food with craft beer was right.

A considerable upgrade on the Stygian gloom of their Twarda basement, the Marszałkowska wing of Chmielarnia has a global outlook in terms of booze selection and bar staff equipped with a terrifying knowledge of all things that are beer. Tactically speaking, this makes it a horrendous choice to begin a pub crawl: you see, having just the one is nowhere near enough – it takes four attempts before we successfully extract ourselves and move onwards to Oleandrów.

19:10 Sen Nocy Letniej ul. Oleandrów 5

A wild diversion! Next stop we find ourselves not in a bar, but a perfume store: a gallery of scents that brings to life 19th century Parisian boheme and juxtaposes it against rigorous Protestant-inspired interiors. Anyhow, there’s a product launch of some kind featuring wine and lots of glam people wearing vampire black – the opportunity for a free glass of bubbles is seized upon.

19:30 MOD

ul. Oleandrów 8

20:15

As far as odd couplings go, MOD takes the biscuit: a hip donut store by day, come nightfall it transforms into one of Warsaw’s top casual eateries. Cool warsawinsider.pl

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Drink! Pub Crawl and kooky, it’s a place that pushes the envelope in terms of doing something different. Beyond just the food angle, that means original interpretations of cocktail classics: served up by some kind of off-duty model dude, the Sidecar is both refreshing and replenishing – let battle begin!

20:15 Warzą się Losy ul. Oleandrów 3

“Nowhere in Warsaw,” beams the barman, “has more beer taps per square meter.” Despite its diminutive footprint, WsL punches above its weight with eight taps turning out new generation Polish beer. Decked out like an anechoic chamber, the combination of good beer and mouse hole dimensions mean that it doesn’t take long for conversations to crossover with the scattering of strangers at the bar. Soon enough everyone’s drinking together and toasting the night.

21:30

heart of Oleandrów is found somewhere between these walls.

23:30 Bardziej

ul. Marszałkowska 10/16 (enter from Oleandrów)

A top hat and goggles: that’s what the barman is wearing, but that doesn’t effect his ability to concoct a Dark & Stormy of dastardly brilliance. Everything feels right here, from the crowd and the cocktails to the mood and the music. Steampunk in design (think Jules Verne and mechanized bits and bobs), there’s a blurry ambiance to the 1 a.m. vibe. Leaving, it’s with that blast of good energy that top cocktails give.

2 A.M. Świetlica

ul. Marszałkowska 17

Fortunately, the Mexican-themed tap bar on Marszałkowska is already bolted for the night – if their Ochota outpost

is anything to go by, then we’ve actually dodged a bullet. Instead, the bitter end comes at Świetlica. Long and narrow, dark and murky, it’s as raw as they come: toilets of grubby menace, a smoking room clad in spray art, broken fittings and general gloom. Basically, it’s everything you demand from the last bar of the night – a place where you can slide into the shadows and watch the world spin in front. The perfect sign-off.

SURVIVAL SUSTENANCE

Okienko ul. Polna 22

When the chips are down and you’re looking for emergency nourishment, then join the queue outside Okienko: serving Belgian-style frites in paper cones, this street-side hatch is a true window of life. The roster of sauces, written up in marker pen on the wall tiles, are often supberb.

Oleandrów 3 ul. Oleandrów 3

Slotted next to WsL, Oleandrów 3 feels frayed and decadent: a din of conversation whirls around and it’s not long before we’re engaged in a heated literary discussion with a God-like character who sells books from his pushbike. Lost in the atmosphere of gentle confusion, we find ourselves stumbling into a thrift store next door buying up furry bears and cat-themed handbags to hand out later to the general public.

22:45 Małe Piwo

Oleandrów’s reawakening began on this very spot! Opened six years back, MP preempted the craft beer trend to become one of Warsaw’s first places for something better than a pint of Piss-kie.

Looking wholly unfinished and fashionably distressed, it’s got that New York dive vibe down to a tee – you imagine The Strokes rolling in right after band practice. They don’t, but there’s plenty of other alternative types with man buns and t-shirts that threaten: ‘I Shoot Hipsters’. Without doubt, the spiritual

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PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

ul. Oleandrów 4

Oleandrรณw + Surrounds

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DRINK! Listings bars & pubs 8 Dzień Tygodnia Though the owners remain the same, the unit that once housed Kwadrat couldn’t be more different: no longer a grungey, shadowy space, it’s been rebooted with lots of brash, bursts of color, strings of fairy lights and pops of modern art.

What’s not been lost is the amiable sense of gentle chaos: buoyed by a quirky beer selection and fun music policy, this remains one of the friendliest venues in the parish. (D5) ul. Poznańska 7 The Alchemist The great British tradition of ‘a pint after work’ is gathering steam in PL, thanks in part to places like this. Lively and cosmopolitan, The Alchemist’s broad ranging appeal – not to mention ‘self-service beer wall’ – makes it a winning gathering point for 5 p.m. drinks. (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 3, thealchemist.pl

2Koła Sat, as it is, in the abandoned backspaces and brickyards behind Zachodnia station, 2Koła feels like Warsaw’s dirtiest little secret. Still stained and smelling of grease and oil, this former garage is piled high with dented sofas, warehouse palettes and motorcycling detritus. Yet the supremely friendly owners have turned this shadowy lair into a cult bar

that’s specifically celebrated for rowdy jam sessions that cover everything from ragtime to rockabilly. ul. Tunelowa 2B

culturally active persona in the evenings, with concerts, film screenings, plays and political discussions. (C4) Pl. Defilad 1, barstudio.pl

Bar Gemba Despite occupying the bottom corner of an office development Gemba isn’t short of character: that is, at least, if you measure character by the number of thrift store armchairs and vintage extras.

Furbished with lampshades, luggage and varying odds and ends, it’s the kind of dark, debauched bar that trended amongst artsy Poles in the early 00s. (D5) ul. Wilcza 50/52

Bar Pacyfik Candy floss pink and ocean blue?

Remarkably, these colors work thanks to lighting that’s kept dimmed and dark: inspired by 80s Mexico City, Pacyfik looks and feels raw and gritty, hip and happening. Catering to more than just the overspill from Hala Koszyki, this hangout has assumed immediate cult status and the kind of street terrace buzz that shouts summer in the city. (C5) ul. Hoża 61 Bar Studio The ascetic, modern décor is intentional – both not to compete with the fine adornment of the original walls and to break through the building’s grandiose airs. It’s hard not to be overawed by the sheer gigantism of the Palace of Culture that looms above. It seamlessly slips from café during the day into its more

Bar Warszawa De Luxe Leave your visit to the weekend when De Luxe unfurls into something resembling a Polish wedding disco. All the requisite characters appear in this spinning vortex of Boney M: vodka-fuelled Incredible Hulks, groping granddads, svelte students and everyone else in between. Somehow, the formula works without a hitch. There are Poles who’d be mortified by this representation of their country, but the truth is, it’s a rip-roaring time that’s enjoyed by most. (D2) Krakowskie Przedmieście 79 Bazar There’s Krusovice, Bernard and Staropramen on tap, and the Czech slant is lent added meat by a series of evenings held in cahoots with the Czech Cultural Centre – it’s during boozy disco nights the party spills into a shadowy cellar with light retro hints. On ground level its raw and industrial with asphalt colors and overhead pipes. You wouldn’t expect it, but the margaritas are smashing. (F1) ul.

Jagiellońska 13

Beirut As hip as ever, Beirut has walls dusted with cult album covers, documentary posters and witty graffiti inspired by Banksy. Busy in the day, and absolutely packed at night, order unconventional beers from androgynous staff standing behind a sandbag bar decorated with silver hand grenades and a model tank.

(D5) ul. Poznańska 12, beirut.com.pl

ENTER THE WORLD OF ROOM 13

ROOM13 is the heart of the club basin at the legendary Mazowiecka Street.

Perfect location in the center of Warsaw, modern interiors combined with historic architecture and top-class music - all these qualities make Room13 the best choice on the Warsaw’s club map.

The club is located in the 19th century tenement house in the heart of Warsaw.

The unconventional club has been adapted to represent the interiors of the pre-war company’s premises.

Opening hours: Thursday - Sunday 22nd - last guest

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Bierhalle Having tapped their first beer eight years back, this microbrewery has morphed into a national phenomenon with outposts across the country. All Warsaw locations have a cut/paste Bavarian atmosphere, hefty wooden fittings and waitresses dressed like mountain frauleins. The drinks themselves are formulaic and nothing special. various locations, bierhalle.pl Bohemia As welcome as the global beer reformation has been, it has had its drawbacks: namely, the number of snobs and zealots found leering over pineapple stouts and

DRINK! Listings impossible IPAs. Sometimes you just want a normal bar with good, clean lager. Bohemia is that place. This is a Czech bar for modern times: stylish interiors of glass and wood and a so-called ‘tank system’ that maintains the beer’s freshness. Try the ‘Mliko’, a full pint of creamy foam that can be sunk in a swig. (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, bohemiarestaurant.pl

Bollywood Lounge Bollywood in full swing is quite a sight – find banging beats and an energetic club atmosphere complimented by the pungent pleasures of their sheesha pipes.

The Sunday karaoke sessions are a hoot.

(D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, bollywoodlounge.pl

Central Bar The beer (supplied by Bierhalle) is fine, the cocktails getting better, and the atmosphere cranked to max: you get the buzzy sense that you’re in the middle of something that’s captured Warsaw’s imagination – the outdoor terrace is one of the places to be seen this summer. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki)

Ceska Having promised to never return following an incident with a nincompoop waiter, we’ve done exactly the opposite… and become regulars! Views of scantily-clad shoppers wiggling down the street are one attraction, though the biggest is the Czech ‘tank’ pouring system. Order the mliko, a beer that’s all creamy froth that you can sink down in seconds. (D4) ul.

Chmielna 35, ceska.pl

Chłodna 25 After several closures, noise clampdowns and a change in management you’d imagine C25 to be a mere shadow of what it once was. But after a slow start the new owners appear to have rescued this listing vessel and returned it to it best. On the ground floor it’s a place of creaking floorboards and retro armchairs, while the basement gets opened for experimental music nights and improvised orchestras.

(B3) ul. Chłodna 25, klubchlodna25.pl

Elephant Belgian Pub Signposted by a jolly, dancing elephant, this Belgian pub presents its cause the moment you enter – there’s twenty or so taps laid right out in front, and to the left a fridge that’s expected to top out to cover

200 beers. The design is basic – brickwork, beer kegs and varying ephemera of the brewing trade – but it doesn’t need that much more: it’s about the beer, after all. (C1) ul. Freta 19

an open fire inside this classic roughand-ready drinkery. Catch it at its best in summer when the outdoor seating is thronged. (A8) ul. Rokitnicka 20 (Pole Mokotowskie), lolekpub.pl

Grizzly Gin Bar More prone than ever to global trends, news that the international gin revival has hit Warsaw comes as no real bombshell.

The style in Grizzly is dark and hip with the design largely limited to moody lighting, some witty murals and a bank of outdated TV sets, while the smoking room is great for accidental meetings with curious characters. Serving their own ‘Grizzly lager’ as well as numerous cocktails based on different craft gins, it’s fast becoming the latest night in the area.

Między Nami With 18 years of service under their belt you may think of Między Nami as being an antiquated has-been. Not so. Haunted by a mix of media types and local characters, this hip white piece of post-commie Warsaw has an enduring, almost timeless appeal. (D4) ul. Bracka 20, miedzynamicafe. com

Hard Rock Cafe Full Throttle cocktails, lively staff and a classic rock soundtrack: the energy of HRC is hard to find fault with. And on the rare occasion there is a lull in the night, use the opportunity to sniff around memorabilia that includes a black leather number once worn by Madonna. (C5) ul.

Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’ Approximately twenty bars occupy a series of low-budget prefabricated cabins, presenting possibly the highest density of bars in the capital: in summer, it feels like one big street party. Adding to the gentle sense of confusion comes the realization that so many bars look the same – accessed through clattery, barred doors, visitors walk into what can only be described as murk. Klaps, with its dildo beer taps and phallic walls, is probably the most well-known of the lot. (D4) Enter

Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), hardrockcafe.pl

from ul. Nowy Świat 26

Kraken Rum Bar Named after one of the ocean’s most feared mythical creatures (the scary squid from Pirates of the Caribbean), the woodclad Kraken features a wall of cymbals, heavy furniture and some interesting photography. While there’s some decent bottles of rum, there’s perhaps not enough to justify calling it a rum bar. The place rocks though. (D5) ul. Poznańska 12,

Państwo Miasto Is there anything better than sitting in a café, book in hand, while summer sunshine pours through the windows? We go to Państwo to do just that, an echoey, cavernous café with a young, lively crowd that’s keen on scholastic events and political causes. Never does it feel too trendy, or too hipster – it’s a place that’s all about atmosphere and friendship. (B1)

fb.com/KrakenRumBar

ul. Andersa 29, panstwomiasto.pl

Legends Over the years Legends has earned a legendary status amongst the expats and Anglophiles. Their cause is helped by touches such as a proper darts board, Sky Sports and a traditional menu that’s as authentically English as the Downing Street cat. Presiding over it all is Graham, a seasoned expat and Everton nut. (C5) ul.

Paradox Billing themselves as a ‘sci-fi / gamers / role play asylum’ this is a cradle of geeks, nerds and people who collect serial killer memorabilia. Decorated with plastic black crows, a map of Mordor and figurines of goblins, watch as oddly attired suspects engross themselves in ‘for hire’ games with names like Hobbit and Bewoulf. (B1)

Emilii Plater 25, legendsbar.pl

ul. Anielewicza 2, paradox-cafe.pl

Lolek A boisterous pub with a Bavarian, bacchanal spirit and a park-centered location. Strangers squish together on shaky benches while sausages grill over

Plan B Plan B is the very essence of dive Warsaw.

Weekends pass by in a raucous blur, with the party spilling out under the colonnades outside – it helps to look like

(D5) ul. Wilcza 46

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DRINK! Listings a DJ, but in truth everyone is welcome.

The hangover from this shabby, grubby bar is traumatic. (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl.

back and the stars twinkle above. (A4) Pl.

Zbawiciela), planb.pl

Ulubiona Set inside the archway, look for a heavy door next to a dented ashtray seemingly unemptied for the last couple of months.

Shadowy and shabby, you’ll usually find barflies strumming guitars or engrossed in a solo game of chess. An intensely personal experience, it’s a bar that compensates for its lack of glitz with a stoner-style ambiance that soon sweeps over all. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 27

Polonez Mysteriously closed in 2016, Polonez surprised everyone when – out of the blue – they announced they were back in the game earlier this year. Hip hip(ster) hooray! Merging raw with retro, sparse ‘neo milk bar’ chic is set against plenty of oddities, but the cool aesthetics only tell part of the story. This is a celebration of Poland, both old and new, with drinks that include obscure nalewki, craft local beers, bio beverages and regional tipples.

The masterstroke comes in making this all feel international, contemporary and creative. ul. Poznańska 24 Rozrywki After a couple of years during which it had started to feel a little like yesterday’s man, ul. Mazowiecka has had a resurgence and its sense of self restored. Playing a part in this comeback is Rozrywki, a svelte bar with a clientele that values the importance of looking its best. Beyond the immediate appeal of the beauties and wannabes, the cocktails are the chief enticement and given star treatment by a competent staff who’ve been handed a quality set of tools with which to work with. ul. Mazowiecka 6/8 Sheesha Lounge Providing you don’t mind sharing the weekend with some of the most gloriously gorgeous people in the city, then a trip to Sheesha ticks all the boxes. Presenting itself in a whirl of action, the exotic, clubby atmosphere hits fever pitch come the midnight hour. Earlier, soak up the atmosphere with a scented hookah while lounging under eastern lights. (D5) Al. Jerozolimskie 33, sheesha.pl

Stixx It takes a moment to allow the sheer magnitude of Stixx sink in. Having adjusted to the wow factor of the interior – which can best be described as cosmopolitan-industrial – most retreat to the long, all weather deck which in itself is quite something: the aesthetics are such that a cocktail party on an oligarch’s yacht comes to mind. There aren’t many better places for a drink when the roof is rolled

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locations), blikle.pl

Europejski 4A, tel. 22 340 4040, stixx.pl

W Oparach Absurdu Hidden under Persian rugs, velvety drapes and reclaimed antiques, some still refer to it as The Spider Bar in reference to the giant tarantula that once hung from the wall. There’s an air of louche 60s living here, and it gets weirder when bands with names like the Bum Bum Orchestra enter to play trumpets amongst vodka-tipping guests. (F1) ul. Ząbkowska 6, oparyabsurdu.pl

Warszawa Powiśle The prime months for this former ticket booth arrive each summer when the deckchairs outside provide ample opportunity for the city’s young and fashionable to gather in an almost carnival-like atmosphere. Once seen as the hipster Center of Power, it still maintains great popularity with whiskered, tattooed sorts. (E4) ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B, warszawapowisle.pl

Żyrafa Sucked inside it’s green/blue glow, visitors all but collide against the bar with a swing of the door. It’s just 15 sq/m, but that doesn’t stop drinkers rolling in.

“There’s some nights we’ve had 30 people in here,” says the barman, a thought that both terrifies and exhilarates in equal measure. (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 22

cafés Blikle There’s a cultured, pre-war look to Blikle, a proud cafe with a 100-year history.

Famous former clients include Charles de Gaulle who swore by their donuts. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 35 (check website for other

Bułkę przez Bibułkę There’s a feminine style to this cafe, what with its cute, girly pastels, petite plant pots and woodsy finishes. But no matter what your gender or age, there’s something immediately sunny and positive about this place. Slow food sandwiches arrive on wooden boards, there’s pretty homemade desserts and a careful choice of wine: falling in love with it is easy. ul. Puławska 24 & ul. Zgoda 3, bulkeprzezbibulke.pl

Być Może It’s all about artisan bread and breakfast in the industrial looking Być Może. It’s taken the concept of Charlotte (groan, there’s even a communal table), and improved it with excellent breads and a crowd that’s a little less pleased with itself. (E7) ul. Bagatela 14, bycmoze.com.pl Cafe & Lounge Bar But Good Music First Looking back, it’s been a pretty static year where the cafe scene is concerned.

But away from the depressingly familiar sight of a new Starbucks or Costa, there have been some glimmers of hope: the impossibly long name aside, noteworthy features of this suburban star number a stunning David Bowie mural by the street artist Skuha, and an interior composed of raw concrete finishes and beautiful lighting. ul. Rydygiera 13 Café Iluzja Bathed in white, black and shades of grey, it’s an allusion to the black-and-white films of bygone days. The interiors as a whole were designed in a 1950s vibe and the massive armchairs are by far the best part. What more do you expect from a café inside a cult socialist era cinema. (C9) ul. Narbutta 50A, afeiluzja.pl

Charlotte Menora If the air is smug and self-satisfied, there’s a good reason for that: Charlotte have come to embody modern urban Poland: energetic, ambitious and ferociously trend conscious. And to think, some look at it as a mere bakery. Occupying a long space, the latest outpost of this café chain doesn’t overlook the area’s Jewish heritage, with the menu featuring several Jewish delicacies: the bagels are ok. (C4) Pl. Grzybowski 2, bistrocharlotte.pl

DRINK! Listings Coffee Karma Order a smoothie, switch off the phone, open a book – it’s that sort of place.

Concerts and art shows figure in their repertoire, as does rather good coffee. (D6) pl. Zbawiciela 3/5, coffeekarma.eu

Cophi So small you get the idea you could fit Cophi into the palm of your hand, yet no other place in Warsaw is more devoted to sourcing the best coffees in the world. (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60

Czuły Barbarzyńca na Piwnej A Parisian-style bookstore full of steps and wobbles, nooks and alcoves. All agree there’s something special here: maybe it’s the book selection – varied, esoteric and at once compelling. Or maybe it’s the atmosphere, such that browsers anchor themselves on the sofas to lose an afternoon with their nose in a novel while sipping drip coffee. (E3) ul. Piwna 20/26,

made clear by a diverse events calendar that features a panoply of activities: yoga courses to weekend brunches via the occasional kid’s improvisation class. As commendable as these social actions are, it’s the basics that Kos do so well.

Drenched in natural sunlight, perch on the windowsill and enjoy swift wifi, awardwinning coffee and a menu of homemade snacks and bits. (D4) ul. Chmielna 9A

czuly.pl

FatWhite_CoffeeBar Though still in its fledgling stages of transformation, Andersa’s new-found popularity has much to do with the Ferajna barber shop. Find FatWhite attached to it: a two-roomed affair populated by lumbersexual types, expect a great flat white served inside an ice white design given punch by pops of shrubbery and bits of cool art. (C1) ul. Andersa 6

Krem A chic city center hangout with all the swanky, urban elegance of the 8th arrondisement. Opened by the same team behind Monsieur Leon, find their latest little baby decorated with monochrome tiles, marble-topped tables, and retro-styled mirrors. A place of hip sophistication and laid-back vibe, the menu is built around French cheeseboards, raclette and super sexy baguettes.

(D6) ul. Śniadeckich 18

Kafka Café A chessboard floor and a collection of antlers on the wall characterize Kafka, a bookstore / café whose literary collection is composed of paperbacks rescued from recycling plants. Books are purchased by their weight (zł. 10 per kilo) while the menu includes pancakes, pastas and even doggy treats for your mutt. (E3) ul. Oboźna 3, kawiarnia-kafka.pl

Kawiarnia Fabryczna Looking for a place in which to shut the world out and stick your nose in a book?

Head to this warm den to sink inside comfy retro chairs and soak up the natural light that pours through the window.

It’s a place to eavesdrop, catch-up on gmail and daydream the morning away.

The flat white is spot-on as well. (E3) ul.

Fabryczna 28/30, kawiarniafabryczna.pl

KluboKawiarnia Towarzyska With an interior modeled by John Strumiłło, this 50s pavilion has an ascetic design defined by polar white interiors.

Contrast is provided downstairs, with deep magenta walls and retro armchairs.

Concerts, screenings and art happenings have made it into something of local cultural mainstay. ul. Zwycięzców 49, klubokawiarnia.net

Kos Kos is a place intent on stitching the neighborhood together. That much is

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Mała Ziemiańska Sat as it is on a street that’s become the Center of Now, Mała Ziemiańska is a pleasing throwback to slower times.

Designed to evoke the artistic spirit of the mid-19th century, this warming café is steeped in shadow and curiosities.

A celebration of pre-war Warsaw, the literary pretensions of this bolthole find the walls clad with archaic books and sepia photos of the city that once was. (D7) ul. Oleandrów 2/4, malaziemianska.pl

Matcha Tea House Renting the space once occupied by the legendary Bastylia, Matcha certainly have a big pair of boots to fill – but fill them they might. Beyond a comprehensive choice of matcha, find also an array desserts that use this green Japanese tea as their cornerstone ingredient. (D6) ul.

Mokotowska 17

Ministerstwo Kawy Sourcing their coffee from Koppi, an internationally acclaimed Swedish roasting house, the ministry takes no short cuts in their pursuit of excellence.

Utilizing Ethiopian, Costa Rican and Brazilian arabicas – some exclusive to Poland – barista Wojciech Rzytki has earned a reputation across Poland for his expert hand. Rave reviews are standard and appropriate. (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 27, ministerstwokawy.pl

DRINK! Listings MiTo Café, gallery, bookstore. Of course, we’ve seen that concept before, just not done in this style. Stark white backgrounds are offset by edgy art, lending the place a Tate Modern feel, something accentuated by the earnest fashion students who gather through the day. And there’s the toilet, a futuristic affair with piped music and a mirrored wall. (D6) ul. Waryńskiego 28, mito. art.pl

Monsieur Leon Found resting on the corner of a quiet residential street, Monsieur Leon is surely one of Mokotów’s best kept secrets. Here, simplicity is the name of the game, with a brief blackboard menu that involves cheese boards, salads and a hefty croque monsieur. (E8) ul. Sulkiewicza 5 Niezłe Ziółko Café & Deli A shrine to pure and healthy eating, this friendly café doesn’t just brew a great coffee, but bakes its own bread and produces its own yogurt. Sit in the loft to look down on shoppers scurrying to Mokotowska, and on the way out, check out ‘Grandma’s Cupboard’ in the corner: jams, spreads and olive oils are there to buy for home. (D5) ul. Krucza 17 Odette Tearoom Taking its lead from their original dessert stop on ul. Górskiego, the sister venue peddles glorious cakes and pralines as well as a hand-picked selection of boutique teas served in a fragrant and elegant atmosphere. (C4) ul. Twarda 4, odette.pl

Relaks Generally travelling by tram for a cup of Joe sounds excessive, but that’s exactly what you’ll be doing on discovering Relaks. Expertly prepared, right down to the foam art, the baristas here use the finest imported machines and work only with fair trade, ‘specialty’ coffee. If you have time, the drip coffees are more than worth the wait. The interiors supply a retro accent, and are lapped up by a very fashion aware crowd. (E9) ul. Puławska 48 Resort The main talking point here is a design that utilizes shopping trollies and street signs to serve as chairs and tables, and a pile of second-hand books to form the bar

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– there’s even a sofa constructed from a bathtub! Themes of recycling are taken to the limit in Resort, yet for all that it never looks junky or cheap. (C2) ul. Bielańska 1 Same Fusy Suffused in a candle-lit glow, this 15th century cellar unwinds to reveal a charming brick room suspended in time.

Filled with gnarled wooden oddities and tree stump tables, the sweet aroma of fragrant teas helps amplify the fairy tale mood. ul. Nowomiejska 10 Stor Small but perfectly formed, Stor has all the clack and clatter of a busy local café.

Regional beers, Chemex and Aeropress coffee and gluten-free snacks and sandwiches provide plenty of reason to pop in and idle about. (E3) ul. Tamka 33

Nowogrodzka 31, niechzyjebal.pl

Enklawa Forget Tinder, Enklawa is the best pick-up joint around – a classic kitschy, glitzy disco, it draws in huge crowds with a simple lineup of pop and dance hits. Still regarded as the best Wednesday night in Warsaw, it’s the place for singletons looking for a one-night confidence boost.

(D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, enklawa.com

Luztro Feeling naughty? Luztro enjoys a reputation for libertine behavior and illicit pharmaceuticals. Dark, grim and grotty, this after party stalwart gets going at about 4 a.m. on weekends when troglodyte club creatures emerge zombie-like to dance way past sunrise. Jaw grinding, rib rattling electro has never felt better.

(E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, luztro.pl

Wrzenie Świata Those with journalistic leanings love Wrzenie Świata. It’s definitely more Macbook than Moleskine, but this bookstore/café attracts plenty of readers (and writers) to its book-lined interior.

Buzzing like a cafe should, it packs out for slideshows and seminars. (E4) ul.

Gałczyńskiego 7

clubs Backstage Studio Snuggled into a row of shabby cabins mostly rented to sex shops and gambling dens, Backstage feels secretive and clandestine. In spite of that, it’s earned a name among the younger generation as one of the best spaces in Warsaw for electro, minimal and techno nights (check their Facebook for upcoming events). Rather bigger than it looks, step downstairs to find chaos unfurling in a labyrinthine basement. (A3) ul. Chłodna 35/37, backstagestudio.club

Bal If you thought Nowogrodzka was just about grungy craft beer dens then think again. Proving you wrong is Bal, a club that draws a pleasure-seeking party crew of waifish, wasted model-types and assorted hangers-on. Find them twerking away under one of the most interesting lighting arrangements in the city. (F5) ul.

No Comment Found in one of the towers that prop up Most Poniatowskiego, a ‘sense of unknown’ manifests itself inside this weekend’s only club, a bi-level area whose small size adds to the air of mystery and exclusivity. Away from the prying eyes of Joe Public, find glittery, local celebs getting down and naughty.

(F4) Al. 3 Maja 16/18A, Most Poniatowskiego

Room 13 Connected by a series of inter-linking archways, rooms inside this dressy club throb at the weekends with a super sexy crowd letting loose under the vaulted ceilings. Now in their fifth year, it’s become a stalwart of the Mazowiecka scene. (D3) ul.

Mazowiecka 13, room13.pl

Sen Pszczoły Famous, infamous or a bit of both? Moving from their temporary digs in the Koneser Factory, the new-look Sen Pszczoły is every bit as murky as the previous: amid a heavy industrial background, find partygoers enjoying a mixed bag of events that range from didgeridoo performances to full-on techno that makes fillings pop out. ul. Grochowska 301/305, senpszczoly.pl

Smolna 38 One of the most secretive clubs there is: operating a strict no-pictures policy, being caught taking a selfie is a crime punished by expulsion – and how good is that!

DRINK! Listings Attracting a hardcore crowd, its a place of real sounds: forget the joke DJs most clubs settle for, Smolna’s agenda has thus far included the likes of Simian Mobile Disco and Ellen Allien. (E4) ul. Smolna 38

BROUGHT TO YOU BY BARDZIEJ

The View Sat on top of the Spektrum Tower this bar/club has reinvented the whole concept of going out in Warsaw. A truly world-class venture, the open-air deck on the 32nd floor offers striking views of the cityscape, first rate cocktails and an international rotation of DJs. No other club nails the champagne lifestyle with quite the same panache. (C4) ul. Twarda 18, theview.pl

cocktails 6 Cocktails If 6 Cocktails has the feeling of hanging around someone’s flat that’s because, actually, you are. This posh Mokotowska apartment has been re-adapted as an exclusive bar frequented by leggy models and society figures: the parties are nuts!

Unmarked from street level, to enjoy the inventive cocktails message them on FB and await your invite. (E5) ul. Mokotowska 57

THE MOST

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SUMMER IN THE CITY

Warsaw in the summer is like every big city: sticky air and sweaty walls. Everybody just wants to go on holiday. But while some people prefer to buy the same all-inclusive package, others, like us, prefer to discover new tastes and places. At Bardziej our journey will lead you through Mexico – the land of tequila – through to Spain – the home of sherry – and finally to Poland where the meadows, fields and forests are full of nature’s summer gifts. And it’s from these we pick crispy, fresh rhubarb as well as wonderful green, sour sorrel before combining these ingredients with a forest fruit infusion. Are you already back from your holidays, or do they still lie in the future? Or maybe, perhaps, you just want to create carefree memories and moments along with your friends? Well do so while sipping Sorrel on Vacation in BARDZIEJ...

See you at BARDZIEJ! ul. Marszałkowska 21/25 (enter from ul. Oleandrów), tel. 22 118 2743, www.bardziejbar.pl warsawinsider.pl

12.08.15 20:49

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DRINK! Listings you’ll find it’s the right products in the right hands – the staff really know their game. (D8) ul. Wiśniowa 46, barwieczorny.pl

experiments go as planned: on our last visit, a basic Bloody Mary was turned into an alcoholic carrot flavored fizz. (E5) ul.

Krucza 6/14

Bardziej It’s thanks to places like Bardziej that Oleandrów is becoming one of the most talked about streets around. This splitlevel bar does a good job of capturing the essence of the area, with inventive ‘author’s cocktails’ matched against a warm, dimly lit interior that’s heaving with cogs, metal hooks and enigmatic dials.

The later it gets, the better it is. (E5) ul.

Marszałkowska 21/25 (enter from Oleandrów)

Biała Expect highly individualized cocktails, a thoughtful menu and a glam, vamped up crowd every bit as beautiful as the place itself: set in a gloriously white inter-war villa, this is a place that oozes with sex appeal. There aren’t many finer outdoor gardens. ul. Francuska 2, fb.com/ bialazjedziwypij

Column Bar Just the look of Column Bar sweeps you off your feet; there’s something breathlessly classy about it, like you’ve just entered Gatsby’s ballroom. You want to order a pyramid of champagne and dance on their piano. Behave, and order a cocktail instead. For a taste of the classics, the Column Bar is pretty peerless.

(D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44 (Hotel Bristol)

Karowa 31 Warsaw’s original speakeasy grants access via a retractable door disguised as a VHS collection – how cool is that!?

Maze-like in layout, the retro-looking Karowa 31 unravels to reveal a series of chambers concealed in shadow, though for all that the cocktails are the real draw: masterful creations composed by a dreadlocked Dane called Bram. (D3) ul.

Karowa 31, warsawbarproject.com

Kita Koguta The staff aren’t afraid to get imaginative, and that includes serving cocktails in smoking coconut husks. Not all the

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Kiti Bar A raucous bar drawn up by the owners of the nearby Kita Koguta. Dominated by a tall Polynesian totem, this ray of sunshine gets noted for extravagant cocktails served by game staff in zany shirts. (D5) ul. Krucza 6/14

Lazy Dog While Lazy Dog isn’t exactly new, it does feel like it’s turned over a new leaf – what was a good cocktail bar, it seems, has grown to become a very good one.

Seeking inspiration from some of the world’s wackiest artworks, the cocktails aren’t just beautiful to look at, but damn good to drink... If there’s a highlight, that’s the ‘Fight Between A Tiger & A Buffalo’, a spicy, tropical creation complete enveloped in a thick billowing mist. (D5) ul.

Krucza 16/22, lazy-dog.pl

Palmier Escapist in every respect, there’s a star quality here, a real sense of swank. The interiors are the stuff of Gatsby – tall palm fronds and marble finishes underneath ceilings that stretch forever – while the long, strip terrace is pure seasonal bliss: a place to chill, chat and pretend to be one of Warsaw’s top 1%. Well-balanced and impeccable on every level, cocktails here are a liquid journey into the heart of pleasure. (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12 Panorama Sky Bar The Marriott’s 40th floor Panorama has had a couple of incarnations: first, as a glitzy Dynasty throwback, and then, more recently, as something that could have passed for a business class airport lounge. Now it’s been reinvented once again, only this time successfully: find slick, vibrant interiors redolent of London matched up with modern cocktails and twinkling views. (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, panoramabar.pl

Pies Czy Suka Monochrome gun metal grey colors are offset by a young crowd attired in red shoes, pink trousers and blue headphones. This clean, concrete space is speckled with plaster moldings of

reindeer heads, and excels on the cocktail front. Order from an iPad menu, before settling back for cocktails made using mad scientist, molecular techniques that involve foam, vapor, beakers and other things you’d usually find in Professor Yaffle’s lab. Certainly not as ‘mature’ as the new breed of cocktail bars, but definitely more fun. (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8A, piesczysuka.com

Ritual High on good looks and self-confidence, Ritual is the kind of bar / club crossover that modern Warsaw just can’t do without. Catapulting Mazowiecka back into the spotlight, Ritual’s door selection is cut-throat and ensures only the cream of the capital make it through the door.

With entry bagged, enjoy beautiful cocktail creations and a program of live music that ranges from jazz and rock to more clubby sounds at the weekend. (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, ritualwarsaw.com

The Roots Cluttered with shiny props and pieces rescued from the early days of cocktail making, The Roots could pass for a Victorian era curiosity shop. Looking past the eccentricities that comprise the interior, it’s become famous on account of irresistible drinks mixed and muddled by dapper experts that aren’t so much barmen as they are craftsmen. (C2) ul.

Wierzbowa 11

Steam Bar Tapping into the fashion for steampunk design, this wholehearted effort ensures all of the basic elements are ticked off and present: metallic, industrial leftovers, sprockets and chains, and exposed, weathered walls. The cocktails are the key detail though, and here they’re inventive offerings often presented in ingenious vessels. Best known for its craft beer scene, the arrival of an excellent cocktail bar represents big news for Nowogrodzka. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 23 Weles A swing of the door takes visitors plunging down a blacked-out stairwell and into a basement that emerges from the darkness like a decadent Tsarist relic: glinting chandeliers glimmer over deep leather sofas, their subtle light casting a glow over an immaculate clientele. Befit-

DRINK! Listings ting the venue, the artisanal cocktails are a work of elaborate craftsmanship, and incorporate everything from elite liquors to strips of bacon and flower petals. (D5)

fact askmen.com voted it their favorite strip in the world speak for itself. (B3) Al.

ul. Nowogrodzka 11, welesbar.pl

craft beer

Woda Ognista Woda Ognista evokes the jazzy air of a Chicago, Prohibition era speakeasy with a seriously stylish interior that includes a colossal collection of vintage cocktail shakers that glint behind glass. The drinks themselves, rattled up by dapper gents in braces and flat caps, are split between house creations and reprised classics from a bygone era. Some are more successful than others, and it’s a credit to the staff that they’re willing to take comments on board and adapt their precious recipes to suit fussy tastes. (E5) ul. Wilcza 8, wodaognista.com

Zamieszanie Cuda Na Kiju have built on their continuing success by adding this spot in the glass block next to their tap pub. Here though it’s cocktails that are the draw.

Pre-bottled in a secret room downstairs, meaning none of the ad-libbed artistry of other cocktail bars, and tastes that are closer in line to 90s alcopop drinks than anything else. That doesn’t stop a young crowd from swamping the place come the weekend. (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 6/12

Solidarności 82A, playhouse.pl

Artezan Pub Browar Artezan’s flagship pub is a compulsory visit for all beer aficionados.

The beer is the magnetic force with eight taps blasting out pacesetter tipples from this brewery’s portfolio. The Pacific is an all-time favorite. (D4) ul. Moniuszki 1A Beerokracja You can forget that it’s just opened, the subterranean Beerokracja isn’t far removed from the student union bars you may have frequented 20 years back: Nirvana and Hendrix posters, live bands, a big screen for football and lots of shouty background din. But despite looking like it was rustled up in a day the place works faultlessly: find a great line-up of new wave beers served by a staff who prefer to pour your beer first than answer the phone that’s ringing in their pocket. (D5) Marszałkowska 99/101, beerokracja.pl

Zorza Slotted inside what was once Café 6/12, Zorza embellishes the venue’s ascetic PRL style with licks of art deco: it’s an unlikely marriage that manages to work.

Do your pecking, picking, sipping and supping on an outdoor terrace set-up that encourages mingling and interaction. (D4)

Chmielarnia A subterranean multi-tap found in the depths of the fishing institute. Artisan beers rule the roost here (there’s 15 taps and stacks more beer in the fridge), a point underlined by a glass coffin of mainstream macro lager. While the bar gets loud and rackety, sweaty and sticky, that’s balanced out by a rotating beer offer that’s moderately priced plus a friendly, earnest audience that’s all beer geeks and know-it-alls. (B5) ul. Twarda 42

ul. Żurawia 6/12, zorzabistro.pl

(basement level), chmielarnia.waw.pl

for gentlemen

Craft Beer Muranów Though still an area thick with beretwearing, dachshund-walking oldies, Muranów is fast catching up with the rest of Warsaw. Taking care of the craft beer angle is this newbie, a bi-level bar with warm tones and 16 taps of beery goodness. ul. Andersa 23, fb.com/craftbeer-

Party HQ now home to an entirely different kind of party: on occasions find food trucks and film screenings, and all other times just a massive crowd getting sloshed on 15 types of tap beer. But even outside the sweaty months Cuda is worth the visit: drink inside a modern, glass cube that’s refreshing contemporary. (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, cudanakiju.pl

Drugie Dno To plug into the pounding heart of Warsaw’s craft beer scene, look no further than Nowogrodzka. Joining the ranks of the street’s multi-tap bars is Drugie Dno, a three-level space that’s been themed to evoke the look of a disused power station.

Sporting rugged brickwork and a scuffed style, the industrialized look has been amped up to the max through the use of steel girders, vintage voltage meters and toilets disguised as elevator shafts. (D5) ul.

Nowogrodzka 4

Gorączka Złota Founded in 1996, Złota’s longevity is to be admired, even if the interiors aren’t.

Small, dark and a little pungent, the interiors are rendered out of little more than varnished wood and hundreds of beer coasters. But that’s the clue! The secret of their success is down to the beer. Stocking a range of regional and craft beer, this bar has an underlying honesty that makes it a success. (D5) ul.

Wilcza 29, goraczka-zlota.com.pl

Jabeerwocky Steeped in multinational drunken babble, the super sociable Jabbers is famed for its innovative beer selection and convivial atmosphere. Mark it down as an absolute must-visit, especially if you’re a fan of stout and cider. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 12, taproom.pl

Playhouse Not here gorilla gangsters on the door or pushy girls doing the rounds (“buy me drinky drinky”). Instead, Playhouse models itself on the top class mega clubs such as Spearmint Rhino, and the result is a subterranean space removed from the sleaze and murk usually associated with the industry. But you want to know what the girls are like, yeah? Let the

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muranow

Cuda Na Kiju Where it all began. Summer catches Warsaw’s original tap bar at its best, with the courtyard of the former Communist

Kufle i Kapsle All levels of drinkers are catered for in this raw-looking space, from those ready to pay nosebleed prices for beers with spaceships on the label, right the way down to novices taking their first baby steps in the world of craft booze. Interiors are balanced with the pre-war heritage of the place, and are thick with noise, clamor and the spell of spillage. Unisex toilets, meaning there’s usually one idiotka putting a spanner in the queue code. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 25, kufleikapsle.pl

DRINK! Listings Piw Paw We don’t like: the sweaty toilet, strange smells nor the scrum at the bar. We do like: the 24hr opening hours, humongous fridge and 50+ taps. Seen in the light it’s a little depressing, so visit at night when Parkingowa takes on the look of an endof-term street party. (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34 (enter from ul. Parkingowa), piwpaw.pl

Same Krafty Occupying two narrow, rugged rooms, Same Krafty have rescued Old Town from big beer brands peddling piss. Offering artisan alternatives, this intimate bar has become a magnet for those looking to explore the more subversive side of Polish brewing. (D1) ul. Nowomiejska 10, samekrafty.pl

Same Krafty Vis-à-vis You wouldn’t have thought it a year back, but reasons keep emerging to drink in the Old Town. When it comes to pubs, Same Krafty top the list, but try getting served at peak drinking time. So here’s some brilliant news: they’ve now opened another bar opposite. Pass under a dragon’s head before stepping into a supremely friendly room with ten taps, a strong bottle line-up and an atmospheric side chamber. (D1) ul. Nowomiejska 11/13, samekrafty.pl

Spiskowcy Rozkoszy The ground floor is an intimate space with lots of yet-to-be-famous beers and junky, antique furniture that reminds of the Boho hangouts in Kraków. But what was a packed, little bar is now a packed, big bar with the opening of the basement: find a labyrinth of rooms and psychedelic toilets with pulsating lights – you soon wonder who spiked your drink. And oh, the drinks. Expect IPA and APA beers served from the six taps. (D5) ul. Żurawia 47/49, spiskowcy.pl

The Taps No longer a niche movement, the opening of The Taps is another sign of craft beers mainstream market penetration. Set on the once super trendy Sienkiewicza, hopes are high that the opening of this three-floor drinking den could yet revive the fortunes of this street. Appealing to a young, pre-club crowd, the industrial / loft-style décor feels rather contrived and a little too polished. ul. Sienkiewicza 4

live music 12on14 Jazz Club Warsaw has a rich tradition of jazz, so you have to sometimes wonder, just where the hell are all the jazz bars? In 12on14’s case, down a courtyard and through a side entrance. Dark, smart and sophisticated, here’s a place that’s fitted out with framed portraits of sax tooting masters as a well-stocked bar area decorated with quotes from jazz legends.

Open from Tuesday till Saturday, evenings see local and international musicians take to the stage. (D6) ul. Noakowskiego 16, 12on14club.com

Chwila Entered under a red, cabaret-style awning, Chwila is a reject factory space turned good. Furry cushions, patchwork quilts and student art vie for attention alongside iron girders and industrial leftovers inside what is becoming known as one of the top alternative music venues this side of the river. The toilet alone, papered with trillions of cool posters and magazine covers, is a reason to linger. (B3) ul. Ogrodowa 31/35

Hydrozagadka Set out in the wildlands of Praga, consider Hydrozagadka as the heart of unforced cool. Known for its alternative music scene, the low-ceiling and tight, crowded nature of it generate an electrifying atmosphere where the audience and band become one. Walking a fine line between industrial and straight out decrepit, the atmosphere is second to none: drinks flow, strangers meet and music smashes out: you can feel something special happening here. ul. 11 Listopada 22, hydrozagadka.waw.pl

Pardon, To Tu Found until recently on Pl. Grzybowski, the gentrification of the center recently saw the demolition of Pardon’s original HQ. Undeterred, the team behind Warsaw’s most experimental live music venue have revived their role in a temporary summer space outside Mokotów’s Nowy Teatr. Strung with fairy lights, this outdoor jumble of furniture comes alive in a magic swirl of innovative sound once live bands step on the stage. (E9) ul. Madalinskiego

JUICE BARS Corona Sok i Mus Inconspicuous by its size, this pit stop consists of nothing more than a counter and display fridge, yet already it’s carved a 24-carat reputation for coldpressed juices and small, jarred mousses. Made using local seasonal fruit and veg, then topped with superfoods and spices, the quality of Corona’s products have made it a standout. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki), fb.com/coronasokimus

Juice Press People Sick and tired of being sick and tired? This two-level cubbyhole offers an easy way to cleanse and detox the body: cold-pressed from organic, locally sourced fruit and veg, find an array of juices lined up on parade in the fridge, as well as a variety of coffees that make use of chemix, aeropress and drip techniques. (D4) ul. Bracka 18

Think Love Juices Nutrition nut and supermodel Anna Jagodzińska reveals the secrets of her diet in this whiteclad, summery-looking Saska café. As the name indicates, juice plays a massive part in that, with the rotating choice presenting a range of drinks that run from watermelon water all the way up to complex concoctions that ignore any shortcuts. The daily changing lunch deals are superb, but leave you in no doubt just why models are so skinny. (H4) ul.

Francuska 14, thinklove.pl

10/16 warsawinsider.pl

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DRINK! Listings riverside hangouts Babie Lato Glimmering views of the National Stadium await at Babie Lato, a cult hit with a sandy beach and wooden walkways.

But the chat is all about the adjoining Lowcy Syren, a street-food joint run by the acclaimed Pogromcy Meatów. Bulwar Flotylli Wiślanej

Barka Wynurzenie Putting the bar into barge, bounce across a gangplank to board this summer hit. Tap beers are provided by the Raduga craft brewery, and food courtesy of Texasraised Zbyszek Gawron: it’s hot, Mexican and perfect for sunset. Bulwar Grzymały Siedleckiego

Boogaloo A place that’s all lairy Hawaiian style, neon cocktails and token tiki décor. At night it becomes one big party: the kind of place where you end up waving your shirt over your head. Three cheers for the food: ace Mexican by Maria Kolendra. Wybrzeże Gdynskie 2

Grunt i Woda Utilizing ingredients grown in their own garden, Grunt i Woda’s offer extends to hard-hitting, author’s cocktails and an Asian street food stall run by Shoku restaurant. Bulwar Flotylli Wiślanej Miami Wars Found on a steep riverbank overlooking the water, Miami Wars specialize in speedboat hire and seafood grilled onsite. The bar area has become quite the party spot and now also has a seasonal outpost of Tel Aviv. Bulwar Zaruskiego 12

vodka Dom Wódki Those expecting Dom Wódki to be a standard mucky shot bar are in for a surprise. Sparkling with over 250 artisanal vodkas, find them incorporated into inspirational drinks mixed by Tomasz Małek, a world champion flair bartender.

(C2) ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl

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wine bars Ale Wino!

At first you think you’re walking into a car park. And then, it hits you – a beautiful inner-city sanctum with wooden decking, a slanted sail shielding the sun, and bespoke, funky chairs from the esteemed Studio Rygalik. You want to dwell here for a bit longer than planned: and there’s no harm in doing so. One of the Insider’s favorite wine bars, Ale Wino’s food is also top-notch (E5) ul. Mokotowska 48, alewino.pl Bubbles Despite sounding like a 90s small town nightclub, Bubbles is in fact a worthy place of note: a small, warm venue with a slow food menu and a design that incorporates lots of upturned crates and dusty bottles. Champagne is the main draw here, with many labels that are exclusive to Poland. Some come with terrifying prices, but on the whole the price points are widely accessible: wine from zł. 10 and a flute of champers from zł. 29.

(D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, bubbles.com.pl

Dekant Wine Bar Set inside an attractive open space, the opening of Dekant is a further indication of Powiśle’s shift from hipster epicenter to upscale playground (Robert Lewandowski has been spotted here!). The list comprises over 400 wines from the most prestigious producers in the world, right the way down to tiny, little vineyards you’ve probably never heard of. If the sun is out, aim for a place on their back terrace. (E3) ul. Zajęcza 15, dekant.com.pl Dyletanci Often filled to capacity with crisp, modern citizens that radiate confidence, join them on green banquettes illuminated with Tom Dixon lamps. The wine list is fitting of the A-list, and aside from exceptional international choices, also includes interesting wines from the proprietor’s own label – a frankly superb Polish brand called Dom Bliskowice. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44, dyletanci.pl Enoteka It’s the wine bar New Town has been waiting for ever since… the old Enoteka closed. The eagerly awaited return brings with it a new location – right

on the corner of New Town Square and a wine list from curated by importer Maciej Bomboł. (D1) Rynek Nowego Miasta 13/15, enotekapolska.pl

Hoża You’ll probably know Hoża as the home of steak. But what is meat without wine? complementing the Argentine-inspired cooking is a wine list particularly dense with reds. (D5) ul. Hoża 25a, hoza.warszawa.pl Kieliszki Na Hożej Already celebrated for their operation on Próżna, this latest branch continues in much the same vein: classy interiors, a prime location on one of Warsaw’s few surviving pre-war streets and a casual bistro vibe matched up against a glorious Italian influenced wine list. The concise food menu connects local Polish to classic French and adds an interesting modern twist. ul. Hoża 41, kieliszkinahozej.pl Mielżyński Wine Bar Robert Mielżyński, a Canadian-born oenologist, awakened Warsaw’s love affair with the grape when he launched Mielżyński in 2004, and it continues to serve as the accepted benchmark to which all wine bars aspire. Their cause is amply boosted by a fine selection of bites to accompany the superlative wine offer. Find it in a pared down warehouse that emanates casual city cool. (A1) ul.

Burakowska 5/7, mielzynski.pl

Nowina Restored pre-war tiling, glinting surfaces, a world map rendered from corks and an engaging reddish glow all do their bit to lend Nowina the kind of atmosphere that’s missing in most local wine bars. over 400 wines and you have an absolute winner. ul. Nowogrodzka 4, nowina.waw.pl

Pani Wina Tucked down an upcoming stretch of Wilcza, the interiors play-up to the pre-war heritage of the building with the elegantly demure decorations anchored around mustard-colored banquettes, olive green walls and immaculate parquet flooring: smart, soothing and even pretty sexy. In rhythm with the times, it’s the first wine bar in Warsaw where bushy beards, tatts and hip, casual fashion are the dominant sight. (E5) ul. Wilcza 11, fb.com/ PaniWina

DO! LAST CHANCE Ongoing until August 31st

A Labor Of Love

PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

From the Ethnographic Museum comes one of the biggest surprises of the year...

T

he Confession: ethnographic museums tend to drive me to the brink of suicide. A journey into the slough of despond, they bring to mind cobwebbed chambers crowded with peasant rugs and burlap dresses.

Booooring. The thing is, for the past few years or so Warsaw’s own ethnographic effort has undergone a silent revolution to give it extra zing.

The changes have been significant, so much so that it’s now easily the most undervalued museum you’ll find in the city. Still boring?

Definitely not. >>

warsawinsider.pl

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DO! Review: Hungarian Love

However, it’s not just the core exhibition that has shaken the sheets.

Playing a key role in the museum’s remarkable rejuvenation have been a series of temporary exhibitions that have captivated the public. Running until August 31st, Hungarian Love is one such project. It’s true, the PR notes don’t promise all that much, declaring it little more than “an exhibition devoted to Hungarian traditions and customs that concern love, marriage and eroticism...” It’s a modest description that does little to suggest the weirdness that awaits...

Starting first with the ‘olden days’, the opening exhibits feature the expected headdresses, staves and spinning wheels. Quickly though, the pace picks up with sections relating to Valentine’s Day, ‘dating today’ and the state approved Four Seasons Dating Agency. Next, the institution of marriage finds itself divided into sub-sections that examine topics such as the wedding banquet, honeymoon, adultery and divorce. Though wellcaptioned in Polish and English, it’s the sheer eccentricity of the displayed items that keeps the attention span on full alert: from hen night singlets to Barbon aftershave, from old concert tickets to wedding videos, the individual exhibits are highly quirky and intensely personal. You feel, almost, as if you’re rummaging through someone’s private box of memories.

Then comes the twist: passed a sign that announces it open only to those aged 18+, visitors find themselves deposited inside a David Lynchstyle maze of red-string curtains, noir walls and parquet floors. Welcome to the erotic exhibition. Utterly bizarre, the content includes phallic jugs, smutty magazines, spicy underwear and other such props – yet despite the theme, never does it cross the boundary and feel sleazy or sordid.

Entertaining but educational, Hungarian Love ranks as one of the most compelling exhibitions of Warsaw’s cultural year: miss it at your peril.

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Hungarian Love The State Ethnographic Museum in Warsaw, ul. Kredytowa 1, ethnomuseum.pl

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

Utterly bizarre, the content includes phallic jugs, smutty magazines, spicy underwear and other such props

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DO! Listings

CINEMA CITY

Summer signals the appearance of dozens of open-air cinemas: all free and all with a program that’s vastly superior to the boring blockbusters at your local mall...

Kino Letnie Na Plac Europejskim

Outdoor cinema has grown from being a minor fascination to a full-on obsession. Now spoiled for choice, locals have scores of venues from which to pick with this list representing but a drop in the ocean. For times, info and full schedules, snoop to the relevant Facebook profile – note that the majority of cinemas will show films in their original language with Polish subtitles provided for the domestic audience. And to state the bleeding obvious, do apply common sense: in the event of inclement weather it’s highly likely that screenings will be canceled – check ahead to avoid disappointment.

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DO! Listings KINO POD CHMURKĄ Expect: a parkland setting in the shadow of a red brick former gunpowder storeroom.

Highlight: Aug 22 Control, Anton Corbijn’s haunting bio-pic about the life of Joy Division front man Ian Curtis. (Prochownia Żoliborz, ul. Czarnieckiego 51) CUDOWNE KINO NAD WISŁĄ Expect: deckchairs, sand and killer mosquitoes on the banks of the Wisła.

Highlight: Aug 7 Action / Horror The Guest. “Dumb fun is rarely this smartly delivered,” say The A.V. Club.

(Cuda Nad Wisła, Bulwar Flotylli Wiślanej 1) KINO LETNIE NA PLAC EUROPEJSKIM Expect: hammocks and tinkling water features under the glinting Warsaw Spire.

Highlight: Aug 3 Imagine.

A blind teacher seeks to help a student rediscover the joys of the world in this atmospheric film. (Pl. Europejski) U-JAZDOWSKI Expect: highly chilled out vibe in front of Ujazdowski Castle.

Highlight: Aug 26 Goal of the Dead. A zombie virus breaks out at a football match – carnage ensues!

French lang with Eng / Pol subtitles. (Ujazdowski Castle, ul. Jazdów 2) KINO LETNIE LOLKA Expect: easy access to beer and grilled sausages at the legendary Lolek!

Highlight: Aug 30 The King’s Speech. Can the future King conquer a speech impediment to lead wartime Britain? (Lolek, Pole Mokotowskie)

KINO NA TRAWIE Expect: bored? Then get your kit off and jump into their pool...

Highlight: Aug 1 A Walk in the Woods. Redford and Nolte star in this adaptation of author Bill Bryson’s Appalachian adventure.

(ISKRA, Pole Mokotowskie) KINO W ŁAZIENKACH Expect: films inside Warsaw’s prettiest park?

No more comment needed.

Highlight: Aug 28 Great Expectations. A who’s who of British actors star in the screen version of the Charles Dickens classic. (Łazienki Park, Amphitheater)

Cudowne Kino Nad Wisłą

Kino Pod Chmurką

KINO I VINO Expect: wine and a super cool atmosphere by an old Tsarist fort.

Highlight: none as yet – schedule undecided at press time, so check their FB for details. (Fort Vino, ul. Racławicka 99) MUZEUM NARODOWE Expect: cultured chilldown in front of the hulking, illuminated form of the National Museum.

Highlight: Aug 4 Exit Through the Gift Shop.

Banksy’s much hyped street art documentary.

(National Museum, Al. Jerozolimskie 3) FILMOWA STOLICA Expect: locations inc.

Royal Wilanów, the Copernicus Science Center, Pole Mokotowskie and... Metro Słodowiec.

The best-known of all the capital’s open air choices... (many locations) Highlight: Aug 24. The Secret Life of Walter Mitty. Ben Stiller stars in this amusing adventure comedy.

U-Jazdowski

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DO! Calendar EDITOR’S PICK Warsaw Uprising Anniversary Aug 1 @ various locations

The 73rd anniversary of the 1944 Warsaw Uprising will be commemorated by way of numerous services, exhibitions, lectures and screenings throughout the month. It’s August 1 that will be the most poignant day, with events including a ceremonial changing of the guard at noon in front of the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, the traditional singing of songs banned under the Nazis at 8 p.m. on Pl. Piłsudskiego, and the 9 p.m. lighting of bonfires on the Uprising Mound on ul. Bartycka.

Warsaw will pause for a minute’s silence at 5 p.m. to mark the outbreak of the battle.

For info, see: 1944.pl

Rynek and Pl. Zamkowy. Attracting audiences of up to 4,000 people, artists booked for August include the Marek Napiorkowski Sextet, Christian Bakanic’s Trio Infernal, Josemi Carmona and Javier Colina.

For more info: jazznastarowce.pl Free admission CONCERT

Chopin in the Park Every Sunday, 12:00 & 16:00 @ Chopin Statue, Łazienki Park

Listen to some of Poland’s top talents – young and old – recite works from Chopin’s oeuvre in the rose-fringed gardens of Łazienki Park. The Sunday concerts run each summer and attract crowds of hundreds.

FOOD

Targ Śniadaniowy Sat or Sun @ various locations

Much more than the breakfast market it modestly bills itself as, this magical open air / covered spot is a bit of everything: a food market, a picnic, even a place to get your bike fixed. Locations include Żoliborz, Powiśle, Ursynów, Centrum Kopernika and Mokotów.

For more info: targsniadaniowy.pl F E S T I VA L

Otwarta Ząbkowska

S K AT I N G

Aug 5-6, 19-20, 26-27 @ ul.

Ząbkowska

3 & 31 Aug

Colorful, energetic and audaciously eccentric, this street festival sees Praga’s spiritual gateway closed to traffic and transformed courtesy of outbreaks of street yoga, cooking workshops, live gigs, literary readings and vintage vinyl markets. And that’s the tip of the iceberg.

Night Skating Join thousands of roller bladers as they skate about Warsaw following a 18km route. Starting at 21:00, usually by the Copernicus Monument on Krakowskie Przedmieście, the mass skate usually concludes at round about 23:00.

For details see: nightskating.waw.pl

For more info: otwartazabkowska.pl FOOD F E S T I VA L

Artisan Ice Cream Fair

Every Sat, 19:00 @ Pl. Zamkowy

6 Aug @ ISKRA, ul. Wawelska 5

Jazz in the Old Town Running each Saturday throughout the summer, the 23rd edition of Jazz in the Old Town will bring together a number of international artists to perform for free in the

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Running from noon until 7 p.m., join Warsaw’s top artisanal ice cream producers for an afternoon of ultimate chilldown. Hosted by Piknik Warszawski, anticipate a number of other food stalls and

Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2017

trucks to also be present.

Admission free CONCERT

Piotr Kurek 9 Aug @ Pardon, To Tu, ul. Madalińskiego 10/16

Famed for his ‘unusual’ DJ sets, this Warsaw-based musician has previously collaborated with a number of acts such as Sylvia Monnier, Hubert Zemler and Francesco de Gallo.

Warsaw’s second ever ‘fine dining week’ aims to showcase the higher end of the capital’s restaurant scene: for zł. 119 diners will be able to enjoy a tailor-made 5-course tasting menu at a number of upmarket restaurants. A final line-up of participating restaurants has yet to be announced, so keep an eye on their website.

For more info: restaurantweek.pl

Tickets from zł. 25 @ goingapp.pl

FA M I LY

FA M I LY

26 Aug @ ul. Górczewska 30

Night of Falling Stars 12 Aug @ Planetarium, ul.

Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20

As per tradition, join other star struck families and boffins to admire the Perseids that fall from the Swift-Tuttle comet. From 9 p.m. onwards.

Admission free FOOD

Indian Food Festival 15 Aug @ PKiN, Pl. Defilad 1

Beginning at 1 p.m., the second edition of the Indian Food Festival will feature numerous stalls from Warsaw’s Indian restaurants, cookery workshops, a food and clothes market as well as traditional games, music and other such attractions.

Admission free FOOD

Food Truck Championship 19-20 Aug @ PGE Naradowy, Al. Poniatowskiego 1

The fourth annual food truck championships is expected to attract in excess of a hundred mobile vendors who will descend on the National Stadium to battle it out for the honor of being voted Poland’s top food truck. The event will also decide on Poland’s top burger, a title currently held by the Kill Grill Burger & Sandwich Bar. FOOD

Fine Dining Week 25 Aug till 3 Sep @ various locations

American Day Swing by Warsaw’s Harley dealership from 10 a.m. onwards for this 50s themed event. Highlights include a display of vintage cars and bikes, a low-rider parade, after-dark burlesque shows, BBQ food by Hard Rock Cafe, live music as well as a mobile barber shop and tattoo stand – it’s going to be epic!

Tickets zł. 10

F E S T I VA L

Singer’s 14th Jewish Culture Festival 26 Aug till 3 Sept @ various locations

Regarded as one of Europe’s most anticipated festivals of Jewish culture, over 200 events are planned and these include screenings, guided walks, concerts and workshops with Próżna and Pl. Grzybowski being the focal point. Taken on its own, the street party vibe makes it completely unmissable.

For more info: festiwalsingera.pl FA M I LY

Kolor Fest 2017 27 Aug @ location undecided

Though details remained practically non-existent at press time, the organizers ask guests to keep an eye on their facebook page for further details: in return, they promise to deliver Warsaw’s most colorful music festival complete with bouncy castles, bungee jump facilities and lots of exploding colored Holi paintballs.

For more info: kolorfest.pl

BROUGHT TO YOU BY THE WARSAW AMBER MUSEUM

Chopin at the Amber Museum

Not just for fans of amber, throughout the month of August visitors to the Amber Museum will be able to listen to a series of live concerts in the exhibition’s main hall.

Focusing on works selected from Chopin’s body of work, performances will present the very best of the world-famous Polish composer.

For more info see: muzeumbursztynu.com

BROUGHT TO YOU BY THE NATIONAL MUSEUM IN WARSAW

Hungarian Photography Running until September 10, the National Museum in Warsaw presents ‘The Way They See. An Overview of Hungarian Photography.’ The juxtaposition of photographs made by representatives from various generations (including those from the 19th century and the second half of the 20th century), shows differences and similarities in the artistic credo of Hungarian photographers from different periods up to the present. The exhibition presents 350 images by over 100 artists.

For further details, see: mnw.art.pl

FOUNTAIN EXTRAVAGANZA

For free family thrills head to the multimedia fountain park between the Old Town and the river: spectacular choreographed water displays are paired with synchronized audio and visual effects and take place each Friday and Saturday at 9.30 p.m. Shows last 30 minutes and often draw thousands of spectators.

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DO! Education listings preschools

American School of Warsaw American School of Warsaw provides a rich, meaningful and balanced educational experience through age-appropriate activities to students aged 3 to 5. For further information and/or to visit our school, contact:admissions@aswarsaw.org or 22 ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel.

22 702 85 00, aswarsaw.org 702 85 00.

a closed admissions policy and limits enrollment of one nationality to below 50% of each class starting from Year 1. ul. Hlonda 12, bsww.pl

dedicated, IB-trained teachers deliver an innovative program (PYP) in English designed for modern world needs. The program offers a combination of Literacy, Maths, Social Studies, Science, Physical Education, Art, Music & Rhythmics, French and Polish classes. ul.

The British School Early Years Centre The British School provides EYFS classes from Pre-nursery (age 30 months) to Reception (5 years old). Children develop quickly and their Early Years practitioners aim to do all they can to help your child have the best possible start in life and become a lifelong learner. ul. Dąbrowskiego 84

Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, canadian-school.pl

(Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646 7777 , thebritishschool.pl

The British Primary School of Wilanów Following the National Curriculum of England and Wales, this is the first School in Poland subject to the inspection of the UK Independent School Inspectorate. Pupils receive British and, upon request, Polish reports/ diplomas. The school follows

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The Canadian School of Warsaw Preschool Welcoming students from the ages of 2.5 to 6 years old, currently 45% of their admissions are international students. The

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Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations) Warsaw Montessori School Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have three green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in earlychildhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob.

692 099 134, warsawmontessori. edu.pl

International Trilingual School of Warsaw Established in 1994, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fillimmersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/ saint-exupery.pl

The English Playhouse The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów.

The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum

DO! Education listings and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old.

For more info or to arrange a tour call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email: jnowak@theenglishplayhouse. com ul. Pływiańska 14a, tel. 22 843 9370, tep.edu.pl

Maple Tree Montessori Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/ Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, mapletreemontessori.pl

schools American School of Warsaw ASW is a

premier college-preparatory international school that offers a PK-12 curriculum, including the IB Diploma Program in Grades 11 and 12. Students are inspired and challenged every day by experienced and dedicated teachers, who provide enriching learning opportunities in a world class facility.

For further information contact: admissions@ aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00. ul. Warszawska 202 (KonstancinJeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, aswarsaw.org

The British Primary School of Wilanów Following the National Curriculum of England and Wales, this is the first School in Poland subject to the inspection of the UK Independent School Inspectorate. Pupils receive British and, upon request, Polish reports/ diplomas. The school follows a closed admissions policy and limits enrollment of one nationality to below 50% of each class starting from Year 1. ul. Hlonda 12, bsww.pl

The British School Premium international school established in 1992 by Nord Anglia Education. The curriculum is designed to provide the highest academic quality of education. They follow the English National Curriculum, adapted to the needs of their international student community: from Primary through to the Secondary Key Stages to the IGCSE examinations and a well-established International Baccalaureate (IB) Diploma Program. ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, thebritishschool.pl

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations) Warsaw Montessori School Guided by trained specialists, students will be responsible for managing their household, operating small businesses, caring for local flora and fauna as well as domesticated animals, taking charge of

the younger children and much more. “Adolescence Program” activities, integrated with academic studies, help students discover their inner strength to meet life’s real challenges. ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, warsawmontessori.edu.pl

The English Primary The English Primary is designed specifically for children in the primary education ages, just as children experience in England but in an international community.

Pupils are taken through the key learning stages so that they can achieve to the best of their ability through a fun learning experience. The Core Curriculum subjects include English, Science, Mathematics, French, PE and Swimming, Music, Personal, Social and Health Education. ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 784 037 808, tep.edu.pl

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DO! Education listings 420 044, secretary@canadianschool.pl or secretary.olimpijska@ canadian-school.pl

The Canadian School of Warsaw International Elementary and Middle School Located on two campuses in the Mokotów this is the only authorized IB School with PYP programs taught in English and Polish. French is taught as a third language. Offers a wide range of extra activities, a summer school, and employs a full time psychologist. Provision is made for additional Polish and English support.

International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create the perfect learning environment. ul. Bełska 7, tel. 692 411 573 / 885

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International Trilingual School of Warsaw Established in 1994, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fillimmersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25,

Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2017

tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/ saint-exupery.pl

prices. Intensive & regular Polish courses for beginners.

Business & everyday Polish. ul.

Warsaw Montessori School Focuses on the Montessori curriculum with an education based on the integration of conceptual learning and real-life experiences. ul.

Nowogrodzka 44 / 7, polishonlinenow.com

Szwoleżerów 4, tel. 22 841 3908, warsawmontessori.edu.pl

adult learning

Frog Acclaimed language school aimed at all levels of competency. Flexible schedules and a history of working with foreigners make it one of the ‘go to’ choices for new arrivals wanting to polish their Polish. ul. Mazowiecka 12/24, frog.org.pl

Cup of Polish Personalized Polish classes adapted to meet your needs.

Also home/company visits and online courses. cupofpolish.com Edu & More Polish Language School incorporating modern teaching methods and reasonable

Klub Dialogu Outstanding programs for foreigners living in Poland: a variety of courses aimed at every level. Using over ten years of experience, the leaning process becomes an adventure at Klub Dialogu. ul.

Ordynacka 13/5, klubdialogu.pl

DO! Education listings cooking classes Akademia Kulinarna Whirlpool Run by two Italians, find a gleaming kitchen inside a vast warehouse space inside Soho Factory. Mediterranean workshops are the primary foundation, though wine tasting and Polish cooking courses are also available. ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), akademiakulinarnawhirlpool.pl

chefs in Warsaw. ul. Racławicka

and Teenage Chef (10-16). ul.

99 (Fort Mokotów), cookup.pl

Rejtana 15, littlechef.pl

Food Lab Studio Comprehensively equipped, the Food Lab Studio is consistently rated by natives as the most complete cooking school around. Run by the much-admired Grzegorz Łapanowski, recent workshops have included courses focused on knife-work, smoking and sauces. ul. Racjonalizacji 5,

Polish Your Cooking “We aim to demonstrate that cooking is neither boring nor difficult,” say the team behind Polish Your Cooking.

Workshops can also be organized for tourists, families and children’s parties and can be held in English, Spanish or Polish. ul. Długa 44, polishyourcooking.com

foodlabstudio.pl

Cook Up Studio Workshops in a gorgeous cooking studio located in a redbrick fortress. Past themes have included Mexican cuisine, knife skills, steak and dessert, with lessons culminating in eating all that hard work.

Overseeing the kitchen action are some of the most biggest

Little Chef This children’s cooking school has conducted lessons for over 35,000 children since its inception in 2007. Classes are taught in Polish and English and are split into age groups: Mini Chef (ages 3-4), Little Chef (ages 4-7), Junior Chef (7-10)

Skład Bananów This cooking school specializes in the exotic, booking chefs from some of Warsaw’s top ethnic restaurants to lead their workshops. In August scheduled classes include those dedicated to Mexican, Korean and Thai cooking.

VODKA CLASS “I wanted to present vodka in a different light,” says Ryan Bromley, “to demonstrate that there’s much more to it than you’d first assume.” This is done through two-hour workshops that lay bare the quirky history of distillation not to mention the development of the craft vodka industry. This, of course, is more than just a lecture. Requiring plenty of hands-on action, demystifying the drink involves plenty of tasting and the blending of your own tinctures.

The Vodka Institute fb.com/TheVodkaInstitute

ul. Postępu 5, masala.com.pl

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DO! Health & Beauty listings golf Centrum Golf Fulfill the dream of playing at Pebble Beach or Torrey Pines by booking a tee-time on one of Centrum Golf’s HD golf simulators. Added benefits include instant analysis and data to improve your game. ul.

Burakowska 15, centrumgolf.pl

First Warsaw Golf & Country Club Features a par 72, 18-hole championships golf course, all year driving range, luxurious club house and a stunning environment replete with gliding swans and bouncing bunnies! The final hole, set on an island, attracts golfers from across Poland and beyond. ul.

Golfowa (Jabłonna), firstwarsawgolf.com

Golf Parks Poland Keen golfers (all ages) can perfect their swing at this friendly, well equipped driving range, whilst beginners can opt for professional individual lessons or beginner group programs in English or Polish.

Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), holmesplace.pl

Holmes Place Premium Three ‘premium locations’, with the Hilton and Regent branches housing a 25-meter pool. Sauna and steam room facilities are available in all all three, as are a varied timetable of classes plus personal training. ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel), ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), holmesplace.pl

Little Gym Targeted at children, expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructorto-child ratio, original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. ul. Bruzdowa 56, thelittlegym.pl

McFit A 2,000 sq/m studio that utilizes the latest technology as well as ‘cyber training’ programs. Open 24/7, with membership from zł. 89 per month. ul. Świętokrzyska 3 (corner of Nowy Świat), mcfit.com

ul. Vogla 19, golfparkspoland.pl

gyms Artis Wellness Club Found in Royal Wilanów, this state-of-the-art gym boasts the latest technological advances in personal fitness, as well as a massive program of courses that range from group cycling and yoga to Zumba and body combat. ul.

Klimczaka 1 (Royal Wilanów), artisclub.pl

Holmes Place Energy High standard equipment, personal training and group classes. Six month membership available for approx. zł.

200 per month, though prices are subject to change. Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (C.H. Arkadia), ul.

Quantum Fitness A place of quiet, understated luxury, equipment is state-ofthe-art and complemented by expert trainers at the peak of their game. This is the full 24-carat gym experience. ul.

Piękna 15, quantumpiekna.pl

Ride Warsaw Group cycling classes overseen by a team of Englishspeaking instructors. This is not a leisurely Sunday pedal, but a high energy workout with a banging soundtrack and constant interaction. ul.

offers a glorious panorama of the city and is almost worth the membership fee alone.

Annual prices begin from around zł. 4,000. ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental), riverview. com.pl

hair & beauty Bartek Janusz Salon The staff here takes a nononsense approach to cutting hair – it goes along with the minimalist chic interiors of the place. ul. Mokotowska 19 / ul.

Wilcza 72, bartekjanusz.pl

BodyClinic Thorough body care for everyone. From the usual options to a huge variety of massages and some very exotic treatments, BodyClinic covers all the bases. ul. Oboźna 9 lok. 104, bodyclinic.pl

Dotyk SPA Probably the only place in Warsaw where you’ll get a facial yoga session. Going further east, treat yourself to Japanese, Polynesian or Indian massage. ul. Biały Kamień 3, tel.

22 898 7272, dotykspa.pl

Ferajna Rated by many as the No. 1 barber shop in PL, this is a male grooming experience like no other – there’s even arcade games to wile away waiting time. ul. Andersa 6, ferajna.pro Fiuu Fiuu Day Spa A wonderful quick fix salon that makes use of the latest Ericson products and other top brands. Regarded as one of the top ladies day spas in the country. ul. Mokotowska 48

Karolkowa 30, ridewarsaw.com

RiverView Wellness Centre Top-class facilities and equipment, private instructors and small classes. The view from the highest pool in Europe

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Hair a Porter A staunch favorite among the ex-pat crowd, Hair a Porter offer the ultimate hair experience utilizing talented staff and top-quality products.

ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent, level -1), hair-a-porter.pl

La Perla Here, the staff is adept and certified at a range of innovative treatments: from the non-invasive Bella Contour treatment to the Body Tite and Body Jet treatments that use the latest surgical procedures to slim and tighten. multiple locations inc. Łowicka 21B/1, Wilcza 22A, Hilton Hotel, klinikalaperla.pl

La Plata Manual and mechanized massage in a relaxed space inspired by Buddhist philosophy. Treatments include herbal stamp Thai massage and hot coconut oil massage among others. ul. Wielicka 42, aplata-spa.pl

Le Spa This little island of peace and beauty takes you light-years away from the bustle of Warsaw. ul. Mokotowska 55

ouch!

Spas & Salons

DEPILACJA WOSKIEM

Ouch!

Experts in waxing, Ouch! aim their offer at ‘busy women looking for express treatments with lasting effects who, at the same time, appreciate a sense of intimacy’. ul. Belwederska 32; ul. Bonifraterska 8, ouch.pl

PARDON MY FRENCH

manicure pedicure

Pardon My French Manicure and pedicure treatments with high quality lacquers and an awareness of global trends: if you need an endorsement, Paul McCartney visited when he was in Poland! ul. Belwederska 32; Bonifraterska 8; ul. Mokotowska / Wilcza 3 pardonmyfrench.pl

DO! Health & Beauty listings sport Fly Spot Ever wanted to know what it’s like to fly? As in really fly??

Find out inside a vertical wind tunnel where fans whirring at a speed of up to 310 km/hr will send you shooting up in the air. Wspólna Droga 1 (Mory), flyspot.com

Hangar 646 Hangar 646 touts 50 interlinked trampolines, a ping pong zone, ball pools and even a snowboard slide where visitors hurtle down a ramp before splashing down on an inflatable mattress.

and this one is really worth the membership cost – it’s the highest pool in Europe. Stunning views of Warsaw make this a swim to remember. ul.

Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental), riverview.com.pl

Wodny Park When looking for a pool, most look no further: on-site find an Olympic swimming pool, recreational pool complete with artificial river, slides

and tubes, a Russian ‘banya’ zone, not to mention other attractions like bowling and squash courts. ul. Merliniego 4, wodnypark.com.pl

yoga & pilates Bikram Yoga A new, modern studio equipped with lockers, showers and the requisite hot room. Practitioners of all

levels – from newbie to old hand – are welcome. Al. Jana Pawła II 61, bikram.pl

Yoga Medica Using hatha yoga as the basis, the individualized approach to exercise comes from the founder’s background as a physiotherapist. Tailor-made programs ideal for those recovering from injury or health issues. ul. Racławicka 28, yogamedica.pl

ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 646, hangar646.pl

W Pionie An 11 meter climbing wall founded by two mountaineers. Considered one of the most advanced facilities of its kind in the country, English-speaking instructors can be rustled up on request. ul. Nowowiejska 37B, wpionie.pl

swimming Aquapark Wesolandia ul. Wspólna 4 (Wesoła), wesolandia.pl Features a recreational

The European Museum of the Year 2016 European Museum Academy Prize Europa Nostra Award

pool, kids pool and a 25 meter pool for more serious swimmers. Also on-site, a water tube, Jacuzzi, tennis and fitness facilities.

Holmes Place Premium All the ‘premier’ outposts of Holmes Place tout swimming pools, though most agree it is the one in the Hilton branch that’s the best. Inquire direct about membership fees. ul.

Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel), ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), holmesplace.pl

RiverView Wellness Centre Another members only pool,

www.polin.pl

Visit POLIN Museum, which has taken the world by storm Patroni medialni

POLIN Museum of the History of Polish Jews Ul. Anielewicza 6, Warszawa

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DO! Shopping Listings accessories

from Le Petit Trou, cosmetics from DrLipp, candles from Fornasetti, etc. ul. Chopina 5B, hornandmore.com

Bursztynek The largest amber jewelry store in Warsaw, though in addition to that visitors can also purchase unique amberrelated souvenirs as well as more classic gifts associated with Poland. Rynek Starego Miasta 4/6, bursztynek.co

Minty Dot Top quality Polish jewelry composed using gold, silver and natural stone. Contemporary in style, these are accessories that radiate class and craftsmanship while at the same time exuding a subtle sense of timeless romance. ul.

Bracka 5, mintydot.pl

di Trevi Boutique Aimed at both him and her, di Trevi present the freshest Italian footwear releases from prestigious brands such as Ballin and Loriblu. Piękna 11A, ditrevi.pl

Glamstore Widely hailed by Poland’s fashion glossies, this store sells modern furnishings with all the trimmings and colors you could ask for. They also stock kitchen and bathroom accessories, as well as touting their own jewelry line. ul. Narbutta 83 (entry from ul. Łowicka)

Hard Rock Cafe No wardrobe is complete without the iconic Hard Rock t-shirt! Find the Warsawstamped version available here, along with other extras for the all American look. ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), hardrockcafe.pl

HOS&me Luxury jewelry and the best in the biz. In stock: high end treasures from Nialaya, Lene Bjerre Design, Ti Sento, Christensen and Dryberg/ Kern. ul. Mokotowska 63, mokotowska63.com

Horn&More On-trend concept store specializing in hard-to-find, deluxe brands: scents from Comme Des Garcons, jewlery

Schubert Rings, bracelets, necklaces and watches produced using the finest Baltic amber. Or for a unique gift, how about an amber chess set or an amber cigarette lighter? ul.

Piwna 12/14, ul. Piwna 26, ul. Świętojańska 11, worldofamber.pl

fashion Ania Kuczyńska Ania Kuczyńska is becoming well known for her highly fashionable, minimalist clothing designs. The store also carries adorable baby clothes and various accessories. ul.

Mokotowska 61

Kenzo, Kotur, Maison Michel, Moncler, One Teaspoon, Simonetta Ravizza, Tod’s, Tory Burch, Valentino, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon. ul.

Moliera 2, moliera2.com

Pan Tu Nie Stal Polish design at its peak: fashion is prominent, but there’s also interesting bitsy things such as aprons, jam jars, notebooks and mugs – all with a defiantly Polish twist. Eccentric, unusual and emphatically on-trend, it’s a must-visit. Koszykowa 35/40,

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Brands include: Beach Bunny, Buscemi, Canada Goose, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Dsquared 2, Christian Louboutin, Fay, Gianvito Rossi, Hogan, Kenzo, Kotur, Moncler, Mr& Mrs Italy, One Teaspoon, Ralph Lauren, Simonetta Ravizza, Tom Ford, Tory Burch, Valentino, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon. Childrenswear: Burberry Children, Dsquared2 Kids, Kenzo Kids, Moncler Kids, Ralph Lauren Kids, Tod’s Kids. Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, plactrzechkrzyzy.com

Joanna Klimas One of Poland’s top fashion designers runs this boutique/ showroom. Choose from the latest collections or have a dress custom made for a particular occasion. ul.

Nowolipki 2, joannaklimas.com

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Moliera 2 Boutique Brands include: Alexandre Birman, Alexandre Vauthier, Anya Hindmarch, Aquazzura, Balmain, Beach Bunny, Buscemi, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Francesco Russo, Gianvito Rossi, Herve Leger, Isabel Marant, Jimmy Choo,

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Ptasia 6 A unique ladies concept store showcasing the works of both emerging and established independent Polish fashion labels such as Eva Grygo, Confashion, Horror!

Horror!, Kasia Miciak and Polanka. ul. Ptasia 6, ptasia6.pl Reykjavik District Chic, well-cut menswear for all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal. ul. Burakowska 15, reykjavikdistrict.com

Risk.Van Thorn Bespoke and made-tomeasure suits as well as

custom-made shirts and a range of accessories from ties and pocket squares down to shoes and cufflinks. The attention to detail, the quality and craftsmanship are staggering. ul. Sienna 39, vanthorn.pl

home Apteka Sztuki Apteka Sztuki is an art gallery that features collections by up-and-coming contemporary artists, preferring promising unknowns to big names.

The exhibits, which rotate on a monthly basis, include a variety of media created by artists from all over Europe.

Al. Wyzwolenia 3/5

Le Pukka For interior inspirations take a look at Le Pukka: highly original furniture and decorative pieces for the home come from the likes of Smeg, AreaDeclic, HK Living and Zuiver. ul. Solec 58/60, lepukka.pl Magazyn Praga A visit to this home design store is guaranteed to transform your apartment.

Showcasing emerging Polish talent, the items here are not without humor: ceramic French bulldogs are particularly popular. ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory)

Makutra To know and not to cook, is not to know. This store has everything a master chef seeks: from tagines to mezzalunas, it’s got the lot covered. Huge stock of cook books and kitchenware. ul.

Oleandrów 5, makutra.com

Nap Bedtime accessories are the bread and butter here, but there’s also several bits for the kitchen as well: coffee makers

by Tom Dixon, posh pans from

DO! Shopping Listings Baumalu, arty saltshakers from Menu and tableware from Muubs. ul. Mysia 3 noon/noon Well-balanced as a coffee bar / showroom where you can interact and experience the functionality and quality of the furniture first hand. ul.

Pańska 98 (enter from ul. Prosta), noonnoon.pl

malls & department stores Arkadia Stores inc. Mango, Lacoste, Guess, Hilfiger and Peek & Cloppenburg. Al. Jana Pawła II 82, arkadia.com.pl

Atelier Mokotowska 63 Four levels of high end fashion, with Woolrich, Mason’s, Lardini, Boglioli, Borelli and Seventy all represented. ul.

Mokotowska 63, fb.com/ateliermokotowska63

Porcelanowa Award-winning, contemporary Polish porcelain produced by cult, internationally recognized brands such as Aoomi and Fenek. ul. Kredytowa 2, porcelanowa.com

Krsytyniak and Chocokate, eyewear from Cheap Monday, killer heels from Vivienne Westwood, etc . ul. Mokotowska 63/100

Galeria Mokotów Stores inc. Calvin Klein, Hollister, Hugo Boss, New Balance, Royal Collection and Timberland. ul. Wołoska 12, galeriamokotow.com.pl

Klif House of Fashion Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has a line-up of top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko.

Mysia 3 Set in Poland’s former censorship office, the line-up includes Scandinavian fashion in Cos, shoes from My Paris, unconventional fashion from Nenukko and more. ul. Mysia 3, mysia3.pl

Vitkac Wolf Bracka Poland’s first luxury department store gathers the world’s top designers under one roof, with brands including Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton, Stella McCartney and Rick Owens. Vitkac, ul. Bracka 9, likusconceptstore.pl

ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl

Blind Concept Store From established international names to upcoming local designers, consider Blind your one-stop fashion solution: eclectic jewelry from Anka

Plac Unii Stores inc. Armani Jeans, Liu-Jo and Pandora amongst its upmarket tenants. ul.

Złote Tarasy Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Jatomi Health and Fitness Club. ul.

Puławska 2, placunii.pl

Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl

The Amber Heart of Warsaw

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DO! Accomodations Listings 5-Star Hotels

Marriott

Radisson Blu Sobieski

Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 6306, warsawmarriott.com

pl. Zawiszy 1, tel. 22 579 1000, sobieski.com.pl

Regent Warsaw Hotel

Mecure Warszawa Centrum

ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, reservations@regentwarsaw.com, regent-warsaw.com

ul. Złota 48/54, tel. 22 697 3999, mercure.com

Bellotto ul. Senatorska 13/15, tel. 22 829 6444, hotelbellotto.pl

Holiday Inn Express Warsaw Airport ul. Poleczki 35, tel. 22 373 37 00, hiexpress.com

Novotel Warszawa (Airport) ul. 1-ego Sierpnia 1, tel. 22 575 6000

Mercure Grand Warszawa Bristol Hotel

Sheraton

ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1000, hotelbristolwarsaw.pl

ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6100, sheraton.pl

Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel H15 Boutique

ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888, radissonblu.com/hotelwarsaw

ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 553 8700, info@h15ab.com, h15ab.com

Hilton Warsaw ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555 / 800 44 11 482, hilton.com

InterContinental ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, warsaw.intercontinental. com

apartments

Courtyard by Marriott Hotel (Airport)

InterContinental

ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 0100, warszawacourtyard.pl

ul. Emili Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, warsaw.intercontinental. com

Novotel Warszawa Centrum

MaMaison Residence Diana

ul. Marszałkowska 94/98, tel.

22 596 0000, novotel.com, accorhotels.com

ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 9100, mamaison.com/diana

Sofitel Warsaw Victoria

Polonia Palace Hotel

ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8011, sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com

Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. 22 318 2800, poloniapalace.com

Westin

Warsaw Plaza Hotel

Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, westin.pl

ul. Łączyny 5, tel. 885 886 100, warsawplazahotel.pl

B&B Between Us Bed & Breakfast ul. Bracka 20, tel. 22 8285417 (from 10 a.m. to 11p.m.), betweenus.eu

Boutique B&B

4-Star Hotels

3-Star Hotels

ul. Smolna 14/6, tel. 22 829 4800, bedandbreakfast.pl

Mamaison Le Régina Hotel Warsaw

Hampton by Hilton

Castle Inn

Chmielna Guesthouse

ul. Kościelna 12, tel. 22 531 6000, mamaison.com

ul. Wspólna 72, tel. 22 317 2700, hamptoninn3.hilton.com

Pl. Zamkowy, ul. Świętojańska 2, tel. 22 425 0100, castleinn.pl

ul. Chmielna 13, tel. 22 828 1282, chmielnabb.pl

w W a r s a www.city-tour.com.pl

Yellow Double-Decker Bus

Invites you to experience a panoramic tour of tourist attractions of the capital of Poland, Warsaw, in a relaxing and comfortable way.

Traveling over the course of approximately 1,5 hour, a double-decker bus will take you past many beautiful and interesting places of Warsaw, such as its interesting districts, palaces and churches, monuments and museums, parks and historical cemeteries, as well as the Jewish historical sites.

A GPS 12 language audio-guide, will give explanations and accompany you to make your ride a more adventurous, exciting and an unforgettable one.

Excellent Hop on Hop off and one trip service operates every day all year round.

5% DISCOUNT with this ad

Line approved by municipal authorities.

www.city-tour.com.pl

ul. Krucza 28, tel. 22 583 2100, mercure.com

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+48 500 033 414

DO! Services Listings relocation companies Arkpol ul. Słowikowskiego 27, arkpol.com Specialists in international ‘doorto-door’ movals, with packaging, storage and customs clearance part of the deal.

pay online via their Englishlanguage website. domestina.pl Move One Relocations Also immigration assistance, fine art shipping, pet transport and consulting services. Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 8160, moveonerelo.com

Express Relocations ul. Szyszkowa 35/37, expressrelocations.com

Euro Move International Movers ul. Kineskopowa 1, euromove.pl

AGS Warsaw ul. Julianowska 37, Piaseczno, agsmovers.com

Relo Planet International, domestic and office removals, corporate and individual relocations, fine art shipping, storage, insurance, as well as a full range of assistance services (immigration, etc.). ul. Batalinou Platerówek 3, reloplanet.com

CorstJens Worldwide Movers ul. Nowa 23, Stara Iwiczna, corstjens.com

services

Euro Move International Movers

Domestina Domestina offer four-hour maid solutions ranging from zł. 129-142. Offering full premium service, they’ll make your bed to match the standard of a five-star hotel, and clean every corner till your flat is spotless! Order and

ul. Kineskopowa 1, Piaseczno, euromove.pl

Interdean International Relocation ul. Geodetów 172, Piaseczno, tel.

22 701 7171, interdean.com

storage Więcej Miejsca Offers innovative, convenient, door-to-door storage & moving services. Order via their website or phone and the company’s driver will deliver sturdy plastic, tamper-proof bins for storing items such as clothes, books, documents, etc. Tel. 733 002 014, wiecejmiejsca.pl

Mums & Tots A volunteer group for mums (and dads) of all nationalities – coffee mornings, play groups, art and music classes and nights out for parents; the list is endless. mumsandtots.pl Professionals in Warsaw New to town? There’s few better ways to give your social life a jump start than popping along to one of the informal drinks mixers conducted by Professionals in Warsaw – all you have to do is buy your own drinks. fb.com/ProfessionalsInWarsaw

networking InterNations Drawing professionals from home and abroad the mission of InterNations is to bring together ‘global minds’. For more info: internations.org International Women’s Group of Warsaw Unites expat women in Warsaw and offers cultural, educational and recreational activities. Meetings are held on the second and fourth Monday of the month. iwgwarsaw.com

Toastmasters International Toastmasters is the international organization for improving public speaking and presentation skills. The local club meets every Wednesday at 19.00. toastmasters.org.pl

Warsaw Social Helping expats integrate with the locals, Warsaw Social has grown to become the biggest and most active events group in Warsaw: not just drinks, but also games nights, defense classes, quizzes, etc. warsawsocial.com

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DO! Museum Listings Copernicus Science Centre Featuring hundreds of interactive exhibitions, it’s a place that allows young and old alike to blast objects into space, experience an earthquake or steer exploratory robots. ul.

Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, kopernik.org.pl

CSW Situated in a baroque-style castle the center hosts artists from all over the world.

The on-site bookshop is of particular interest for artists and intellectuals. ul. Jazdów 2, csw.art.pl

Dom Spotkań z Historią The History Meeting House wins points for small but frequently excellent exhibitions that cover topics such as ‘rebuilding Warsaw’ and ‘Socialist Realist architecture.’ ul. Karowa 20, dsh.waw.pl

The Heritage Interpretation Center Beginning with a gigantic tapestry of Warsaw circa 1873, this little known venue tells the complex story of Old Town’s reconstruction.

Walking over a glass floor,

beneath which lies smashed masonry and columns recovered from the ruins, a series of then-and-now slides and pictures document Old Town’s annihilation. If the first section about Warsaw’s physical elimination is poignant, then the others do a fabulous job of sharing the optimism and alacrity that followed. ul.

Brzozowa 11-13, mhw.pl

Ethnographic Museum Considerably revamped to meet the demands and attention-spans of the 21st century sightseer, the Ethnographic Museum is a visual pleasure that showcases colorful costumes, fabrics and ceramics from Poland and beyond. ul. Kredytowa 1, ethnomuseum.pl

Fotoplastikon Thought to date from 1905, Warsaw’s Fotoplastikon is one of the few suriving peep shows in the world (no, not the saucy kind found in Amsterdam).

Generating 3D perspectives from a set of 2D images, visitors peer through an eyepiece and are taken on a trip around the world while music from

106 Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2017

days yore parps away in the background. Al. Jerozolimskie 51, fotoplastikonwarszawski.pl

The Fryderyk Chopin Museum in Warsaw The 18th century Ostrogski Palace is the perfect foil for the ultra-modern content of this multi-sensory space.

The personal items are enchanting – the composer’s pencil, a lock of hair and even his death mask – but the big victory here is the museum’s ability to suck visitors right back into the times of Chopin through the use of interactive sights and sounds. ul. Okólnik 1, chopin.museum

Gallery of Steel Figures This exhibition sees scrap metal recycled to form characters from film and science fiction, showbiz and music.

Think of it as Mad Max meets Madame Tussauds. Pl. Defilad 1

cal elimination is poignant, then the others do a fabulous job of sharing the optimism and alacrity that followed. ul.

Brzozowa 11-13, mhw.pl

Invisible Exhibition Nothing challenges the sense of sight more than a total lack of it. Confused? Head to the Invisible Exhibition to learn first-hand the challenges faced by the blind.

This includes everything from crossing the road to ordering a drink in a bar. Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, niewidzialna.pl

Jewish Historical Institute Officially opened in 1947 the Jewish Historical Institute was created to serve as an archive of Jewish culture in Warsaw. It contains artwork, historical artifacts and important documents from the city’s rich Jewish past. ul.

Tłomackie 3/5, jhi.pl

(PKiN), galleryofsteelfigures.com

The Heritage Interpretation Center This small venue tells the complex story of Old Town’s reconstruction: if the first section about Warsaw’s physi-

Katyń Museum This museum commemorates the murder of 21,000 Polish officers by the Soviets in the spring of 1940. Beyond its quite staggering architectural merit, the museum has done a

DO! Museum Listings stunning job of collecting and presenting artefacts relating to the slaughter. ul. Jeziorańskiego 4, muzeumkatynskie.pl

Królikarnia The young curator has decided to show some forgotten treasures from the rich archives of the National Museum.

The gallery also hosts more contemporary works, such as those by Nicolas Grospierre and Agnieszka Polska. ul.

Puławska 113A, krolikarnia.mnw. art.pl

Łazienki Królewskie Situated in the picturesque park which once housed the residence of King Stanisław August this museum includes paintings and furniture from one of the most glorious periods in Poland’s history, as well as temporary exhibitions of more modern work. ul.

Agrykoli 1, lazienki-krolewskie.pl

Legia Museum Marketed as Poland’s biggest football club, this museum seeks to confirm this status with the usual spread of glinting silverware. More interesting are the weird bits and pieces: a chunk of the old floodlights, vintage match posters and a collection of paraphernalia connected to 80’s super star Kazimierz Deyna. ul. Łazienkowska 6, legia. com

Marie Skłodowska-Curie Musuem Reopened after a significant re-haul, this museum celebrates the groundbreaking scientist that discovered polonium. The Curie-osities include lab equipment, her trademark black dress and even her nail file. ul. Freta 16, en.muzeum-msc.pl

Museum of Communist Life Lovingly assembled by its young owner, the museum

is split into a few different sections: one devoted to state and subversive literature, and another that recreates an empty store typical of the times. Our highlight, though, is the recreation of a commie-era apartment. ul.

Glucha (opposite Soho Factory), adventurewarsaw.com

Museum of Praga The Praga Museum tells the story of the area with such charm and simplicity that it manages to leave an unlikely impression that’s as punchy as that of the big institutions.

Star billing goes to a restored Jewish prayer room and the Flying Carpet: an exhibit festooned with various trinkets and treasures once available for purchase from local pavement traders. ul. Targowa 50/52, muzeumwarszawy.pl

Museum of Warsaw Over 8,000 objects detail the story of Warsaw, and these include peculiar souvenirs, scale models, old postcards and recovered works of art.

Cohesive and comprehensive yet never too overwhelming, the trail climaxes with vertiginous views of the Rynek below. Unmissable.

Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42, muzeumwarszawy.pl

National Museum Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars. Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw. art.pl

The Neon Museum Filled with salvaged signage, this museum houses several dozen neons that once lit up the capital. The emphasis is firmly on the PRL era, a time when the nation’s best graphic designers were nutty for neon.

ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org

Palmiry National Memorial Museum An excellent multimedia exhibition set next to a cemetery holding the graves of 1,700 Poles executed in the first years of Nazi occupation. The museum tells their forgotten story, with archival video footage complimented by exhumed exhibits and plenty of background info dealing with the siege and subsequent occupation of Warsaw. Palmiry, palmiry.mhw.pl

Park Miniatur A small number of 1:25 scale models of some of the most beautiful and important buildings from Warsaw’s past. Brilliant details abound in this Lilliputian world, with helpful English explanations accompanying the models. ul. Senatorska 38, pl.miniaturymazowieckie.com

Polin - Museum of the History of Polish Jews Composed of eight galleries, each covers a different stage of local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day. Highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec synagogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical inter-war Jewish Warsaw street. Named the European Museum of the Year in 2016. ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl Poster Museum in Wilanów With a collection that touches the 55,000 mark, here’s the biggest poster museum in the world – and also the original.

Art spans the period from 1892 till 2002, and while the majority is Polish orientated works on display also include those by Dali and Warhol. ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 10/16, postermuseum.pl

The Royal Castle in Warsaw Highlights inside include the lavishly restored 18th century royal apartments with 22 paintings by Bernardo Bellotto (known as Canaletto), , the biggest collection of oriental rugs in Europe in the tin-roofed palace and two Rembrandt paintings. Pl. Zamkowy 4, zamek-krolewski.pl

The Warsaw Amber Museum Part of Bursztynek, a dedicated amber shop, has been turned into a curious museum detailing the history of amber. Rynek Starego Miasta 4/6, bursztynek.co

Warsaw Rising Museum Cope with the crowds to discover the definitive story of the 1944 Uprising. Exhibits range from a full-size replica of a Liberator plane, to a sewer beneath the cinema screen and a slice of bread preserved from 1944. And don’t miss the ‘City of Ruins’, a five minute 3D film which takes you on an aerial journey over devastated Warsaw. ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl

Wola Museum What was once a dreary old place has been rebooted as a smart community-minded museum. Bringing the wider area of Wola alive, find engaging content that’s creatively presented: posters, family memorabilia and various media relating to the area. ul.

Srebrna 12, mhw.pl

Zachęta National Art Gallery Regarded as one of Poland’s most prestigious galleries, the Zachęta has a busy program of temporary exhibitions that frequently showcase some of the biggest names in domestic and international contemporary art. Pl. Małachowskiego 3, zacheta.art.pl warsawinsider.pl

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Warsaw Guide

THE ESSENTIALS...

Cut through the chaff and time manage your visit as effectively as possible.

COMMUNISM

A full tour of Stalin’s Palace of Culture is a must: the basements are wild and the viewing terrace unimpeachable. Check the more ambient side to Communism in the Neon Museum and then visit The Museum of Life Under Communism: it’s tiny, but humorous, eccentric and highly informative. While you’re there, squeeze into a knackered militia wagon and take one of their commie-themed tours. Equally weird, check out a former nuclear bunker by visiting the once top secret Obieky Alfa (obiektalfa.pl).

MODERN WARSAW

THE MUSEUM OF LIFE UNDER COMMUNISM

THE OLD…

The Old Town, raised from the rubble after WWII, is symbolic of this ‘phoenix city’, and fully deserving of its UNESCO listed status. In the square, the Museum of Warsaw is a great primer to the city. To soak in the extravagances of Poland’s imperial years, then Łazienki Park is essential, as is a visit to the Wilanów Palace: frequently termed as being ‘the Polish Versailles’, the gardens are at their blooming best in summer.

Elsewhere, kids and adults alike enjoy the Park Miniatur, a magical assembly of scale models of former landmarks.

WWII

Memories of WWII still hang heavy.

Learn about the 1944 Warsaw Uprising at The Rising Museum: it’s deservedly

108 Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2017

Wonder amid romping kids and whirring machines in the Copernicus Science Centre, and after take in the glorious dusk views on the rooftop garden of the University Library.

Across the river, the state-of-the-art National Stadium conducts regular tours, while Dom Kereta – dubbed the world’s narrowest house – holds monthly open days (fb.com/ domkereta).

ART

rated as among the most important cultural institutions in the country. The Old Town’s ‘Heritage Centre’ documents the destruction of the city, while three separate museums, Pawiak, Szucha and Katyń, cover equally somber moments in Poland’s dark history.

Serious art lovers flock to the National Museum for its determined presentation of art through the ages. The Zachęta, the Modern Art Museum and CSW are more alternative with captivating exhibitions that thrill non-conformists. That said, some of the city’s best art is found on its walls: Praga and Muranów are particularly known for their giant wall murals.

JEWISH WARSAW

PEOPLE

Though largely flattened, the former Jewish Ghetto contains numerous memorials, among them the Umschlagplatz installation that commemorates the deportations to Treblinka. The one synagogue that survived (Twarda 6) is the center of local Jewish life, while the innovative Polin (named the European Museum of the Year in 2016) covers all aspects of this nation’s complex and often fraught Jewish history.

Chopin, the city’s favorite son, looms large across Warsaw. The museum dedicated to his memory amazes by the breadth of its scope, while the Chopin concerts held each Sunday in Łazienki are a local rite of passage.

Now reopened following a thorough refit, the Marie Curie Museum in New Town does a splendid job of remembering the world’s most famous female science boffin.

Warsaw Guide

THE BUZZ WHAT’S HOT THIS AUGUST? If the Titanic and Warhol / Dali exhibitions organized at the Palace of Culture were seen as a wet plop of disappointment, then the good news is that PKiN has finally backed a winner.

A place of imagination and ingenuity, the Gallery of Steel Figures is a fantasy world with an escapist twist. Made from salvaged vehicle parts, the Mad Max-style cars and sci-fi figures are a complete crazy triumph.

Andersa’s future looks even brighter with the opening of Craft Beer Muranów. Hot on the heels of last month’s launch of the Ferajna barber shop (join the beardies on the 12th for an outdoor, daytime BBQ!), the arrival of a new tap bar opposite gives the impression that the stars are finally aligning for this stretch of Warsaw.

GA L L E RY O F S T E E L F I G U R E S

Another season of European despair for Legia Warszawa? Surely not! Pitted against FK Astana, fans of the Polish league champions are optimistic that their team has what it takes to brush past the Kazakh minnows and advance to the next qualifying round of the Champions League. With the second leg scheduled for August 2nd, the bars will be bouncing should they do what’s expected.

Back from the dead! Mazowiecka’s second life is hinting at becoming even bigger than its first. Seen as Warsaw’s premier party street in the 00s, a fresh generation of night owls are heading there to sample newish venues such as Rozrywki and Ritual. Fat Buddha, the latest addition to the street, has added fuel to the fire.

If you thought the whole food truck fad had jumped the shark then you can think again.

The fourth annual Food Truck Championships (Aug 19 & 20) will gather over 100 competitors to battle it out for the title of Poland’s top burger. Held outside the National Stadium, anticipate huge crowds to be in attendance.

FOOD TRUCK CHAMPIONSHOP

The trend with no brakes? Make that vegan. If any proof were required then let that be the news that HappyCow, the planet’s biggest vegan website, has ranked Warsaw as the third most vegan-friendly city in the world! And just to underline the point how big the scene has become, Depeche Mode chose Tel Aviv as their lunch spot during their visit in July! warsawinsider.pl

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Insider Finds

BOTTLED UP

Beer, lemonade or maybe even a prankster’s pee? Finding out what liquid lurks at the bottom would mean releasing the genie from the bottle, something that the Museum of Warsaw rather sensibly shan’t be doing. Donated to them in 2002, this bottle was produced during Poland’s inter-war glory years by Przyszłość (The Future), a glass manufacturer based in Tłuszcz. Complete with an airtight cap and porcelain seal, it was then used by Haberbusch & Schiele, a brewery based on Krochmalna and controlled by Zjednoczone Browary Warszawskie. Though famed for brewing the best pale ale and porters in Warsaw, post-WWI economic reality forced the firm to broaden their portfolio and add soda, vodka and liqueurs to their line-up. As such, the contents of this bottle remain a mystery that is unlikely to ever be answered…

Museum of Warsaw Rynek Starego Miasto 28-42, muzeumwarszawy.pl

112 Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2017

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF MUSEUM OF WARSAW

The Insider rummages through the Museum of Warsaw’s collection to uncover our unsung object of the month...