Warsaw Insider July 2017 #251

• Views of Old Town • Museum of Warsaw • Vodka Demystified • The Wisła’s Renaissance

Warsaw The Capital’s Original City Magazine Since 1996

JULY 2017

251 07/2017

INDEKS 334901 ISSN:1643-1723

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Life is Better at the River!

Moving?

zł.10

(VAT 8% included)

ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER ALEXANDRE BIRMAN ANYA HINDMARCH AQUAZZURA BALMAIN BUSCEMI CASADEI CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN FRANCESCO RUSSO GIANVITO ROSSI HERVE LEGER ISABEL MARANT KENZO KOTUR MAISON MICHEL ONE TEASPOON SELF – PORTRAIT TOD’S TORY BURCH VALENTINO VICTORIA BECKHAM YVES SALOMON

Moliera 2 tel.: 228277099, www.Moliera2.com

editorial INFRONT

Editor-in-chief Alex Webber

6 Take a Number 8 Architecture 12 Interview:

insider@warsawinsider.pl Art Director Kevin Demaria insider@warsawinsider.pl

Jimi Ogden

Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com

FEATURES

16 Old Town Views 20 Wisła

Contributors: Stuart Dowell Maria Mileńko Michał Miszkurka Ed Wight

PARTNER SPOTLIGHT

Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com

26 The Latest

Marketpalce News From The Warsaw Insider’s Friends andAdvertisers

37 Bar Pacyfik 38 La Maison

Gourmand 40 The Bell

DRINK!

71 Pani Wina 72 Interview:

Ryan Bromley 76 Stixx Bar & Grill

DO!

91 Line Park 92 Museum of

Warsaw 94 Calendar 108 Guide: Essentials 109 Guide: The Buzz 110 Map 112 Looking Back

Business Development Manager A. Julita Pryzmont jpryzmont@valkea.com

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here is an in-between, but you’re unlikely to ever find it – in many respects, Poland is like that junky shower in your first naff apartment: either blistering hot or one notch below frostbite. But this isn’t necessarily bad news, at least not anymore. With the annual summer sizzle upon us, there are benefits aplenty: regenerated and revived, the Wisła has become home to one of the liveliest riverbank scenes across the whole of Europe (okay, correction: across the whole of Poland). The Old Town, meanwhile, emerges from its languid torpor to transform into a place of life and buzz. Not surprisingly, this issue we’ve found ourselves worming through both. Also on the menu, we bring you the lowdown on the new Museum of Warsaw, take a masterclass in vodka and catch up with TV craftsman and all-round good guy Jimi Ogden. And somewhere along the line, we’ve found a moment to revamp the mag and sharpen its look – hope you enjoy it and see ya’ next time.

Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl on the cover In full flow: the Wisła season peaks! See p. 20.

(Illustration by Michał Miszkurka

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ey Account Manager K Agata Sicińska asicinska@valkea.com ey Account Manager K Piotr Pawłowski ppawlowski@valkea.com Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com Subscription 12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland.

Orders can be placed through: insider@warsawinsider.pl Printed by Zakład Poligraficzny TECHGRAF Tel. (17) 225-28-69

VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies.

All information ©2017 Warsaw Insider.

PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT

EAT!

JULY 2017

CASADEI CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN MEN FAY GIANVITO ROSSI MEN KENZO MONCLER ONE TEASPOON RALPH LAUREN TOD’S TORY BURCH VALENTINO VICTORIA BECKHAM BURBERRY CHILDREN DSQUARED2 KIDS KENZO KIDS MONCLER KIDS

number take a

That’s what zł.1,137,002 can buy...

Going Green

A direct result of the city’s publicly voted ‘participatory budget’, Plac Powstańców Warszawy will sport a new greener look as of July 25th. Already, work to transform this concrete plain is underway, with added details including mini-trampolines, musical instruments, info boards and mist machines. The key difference, however, will be a meadow-style installation that will include over a 1,000 shrubs and plants, as well as several trees measuring seven meters in height. The city had originally earmarked zł. 80,320 for the project, though councilors were so impressed by the blueprints that they soon increased this figure by fourteen-fold. A similar project is planned for ul. Świętokrzyska in Autumn.

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RICO’S CONCEPT is situated in a famous tenement house called the ‘Messal Baths’.

The name stems from Lucyna Messal, a famous opera singer, dancer and actress from the 1920s.

An incredible atmosphere is guaranteed thanks to an interior filled with meticulous old details. Most important of all, however, is our seasonal cuisine which is based on the highest quality produce.

Our secret is experience, passion and innovation...

Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18

Tel: 22 515 8405

Architecture News

TALK OF THE TOWN

This month a startling new project in Modlin has provided cause for optimism, while in the city center, a scandal is brewing!

THE FORT THAT COUNTS

Plans have been made public to transform Modlin fortress into a ‘smart city’ development hosting the largest conference center in Central Eastern Europe.

The project, estimated to cost up to EUR 480 million, also envisions the creation of a university, wellness center, golf course, and, of course, luxury loft apartments. Work on the 450 hectare site will begin in 2019 and will last between five to seven years. The project is to be undertaken

by Grupa Konkret who purchased the historic fort from the Polish army in 2013 for the discounted price of zł. 17.85 million.

A major scandal has broken out over the mismanagement of a housing block on Grzybowska 9. Several members of the building’s administrative board – among them a prominent lawyer and a well-known TV weatherman – face prosecution and, potentially, up to ten years in prison if found guilty. The charges pertain to the 2014 bankruptcy of the co-operative managing the building, with several sources reporting losses in excess of zł. 150 million and the mystery disappearance of zł. 40 million.

In all, a total of 64 charges have been laid against 12 board members.

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TOP PHOTO PRESS MATERIAL, BOTTOM KEVIN DEMARIA

ON THE CHOPPING BLOCK

Interview

Meet the maker...

A familiar face on Polish TV, British craftsman Jimi Ogden spills the beans on his time in Warsaw…

What’s your background?

I studied sculpture and my general background is rooted in ‘making’ things, whether it be through welding, woodwork, etc. I didn’t have the patience to be a sculptor so I began working for one of the best rocking horse makers in Britain, before opening a small store myself called The Black Bicycle: there I’d restore furniture, modernize things or tinker with furniture to make it a little different. By the end, I was also working on building sites, overseeing workers in stately homes and old churches to make sure they weren’t destroying things. They thought I was a right pain in the arse!

And from there…

I started out here as an English teacher, heading off each day to lessons on the trams and buses.

If I’m honest though, I found it all a bit bizarre.

I’m not much of an aca-

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PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

How did your move to Poland come about?

For a long time I was flying between Warsaw and the Britain, but I don’t like sitting on the fence. Grey areas frighten me. My daughter had just started university so I figured now was a good time to move. My wife already had a good job out here as a producer so we said, okay, let’s do it, let’s make the move. I sold all my records, got rid of everything and that was that.

Interview demic English teacher, so while I enjoyed meeting people, I started looking into things like combining English classes with woodwork lessons. After a while I gradually started introducing myself as a woodworker rather than a teacher. Anyway, I started looking at ads for carpenters and slowly began picking up work: for instance, Żona Krawca café.

I asked them what they wanted and they basically said, ‘do the whole place’.

So that was it, I had to do everything from scratch – the bar, the lighting, the décor, the whole lot.

So the TV gig, how did that come about?

I did a bit of work for my wife’s boss at TVN. Later, we were at one of her work events and someone said, ‘you know, you should do a program

about using old things’.

I thought it was just an innocuous comment but then a few days later I got a phone call asking if I could maybe put a test video together. I made some shelves using an old guitar and some fairy lights and then edited it later that night.

And they liked what they saw…

Yeah, but I mean I just look at this as one big adventure. We’re filming a second series already and there’s also talk about editing the show for America, but I’m just happy to keep doing it for as long as people want. I never thought I’d move to Poland, let alone have a TV show.

Not that you’re new to Polish TV… Ha, that’s right. Music is a big part of what I am and I’ve recorded over ten albums. Last year I got a call from a record label in Brighton saying that one of my songs was going to be used in an advert: but the bad news, they added, was that it was going to be used in Poland. They actually had no idea that I was living over here. To cut a long story short, that’s how one of my songs ended up being used in some McDonald’s promotion for lemonade.

Ah, the twists of fate!

I don’t have any spiritual feelings regarding karma, but I am a practical thinker – if you don’t dedicate time to making things happen, then they won’t.

For instance, the other night I was performing in Legends playing guitar when all of a sudden two girls knocked on the window and asked if they

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Interview chuck away, do you want it?’ But I’m not a hoarder anymore, at least not since I moved to Poland.

Back in Britain I collected records since the age 16, while my workshop had bits of wood that had been with me for 15 years or so. I got rid of everything when I moved, and now my mentality is if you’ve got it, use it. A bike wheel can be transformed into a clock or a light and that’s basically my thought process: I’ll pick up bits and pieces and then find a way to work with them.

could jam with me: turns out they were touring with Bryan Ferry!

You must get recognized, right?

The ratings vary between 130,000 and 180,000 people, so yeah, I have been stopped for autographs and selfies. It’s a bit weird, but of course it’s nice. What I’m not a huge fan of is appearing at these big TV events and related presentations – of course I’ll do my bit, but it’s completely and utterly out of my comfort zone!

Where do you get your materials?

I love finding furniture: buying second hand, looking in skips, or searching the internet. Since the show began people get in touch with me all of the time saying ‘hey, I’ve got wardrobe I’m about to

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It’s been said that the typical modern Pole suffers from Shiny New Object Syndrome – that’s all they want to buy. Have you found that to be the case?

The truth is there’s not a huge demand for what I do. What I do is very niche and given the choice I think most people would just go straight to IKEA. If I spend five days making something then it’s going to cost more than something you’d pick up in IKEA: by its very nature, bespoke comes with a price tag, so people are usually going to prefer to go with something that’s cheap, practical and shiny.

I love ‘slow shopping’ and visiting these ‘fairs of wonderful things’, but when I speak to the craftsmen practically all will confess that this is just a side project for them – you have to really be lucky to make a living in this trade.

Catch Jimi appearing on Rzecy Od-Nowa on HGTV. For more info, see: fb.com/ Jimi-Ogden

Crispy Sichuan-style duck with oriental spices

NEW DISHES ON THE MENU! Broad bean salad with ginger, coriander and garlic

Green and yellow beans with pork and chilli

Fried young cabbage with bacon

Ul. Pańska 85 tel. 512 671 756, 22 253 30 30 panska85.com.pl

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

OLD TOWN

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Points of VIEW

It’s not just the Palace of Culture that affords visitors a stunning view of town. Warsaw’s historic center is potted with various points that allow sightseers to absorb the full magic of the city...

(OPPOSITE PAGE LEFT TO TOP RIGHT)

ROOF LANTERN (Rynek Starego Miasto 28/52) Those cute little chocolate box cabins you see capping the rooftops of Old Town’s burgher houses aren’t super cool apartments, they’re what the Poles call ‘latarnias’. Known as ‘roof lanterns’ in English, these architectural elements were specifically added to allow natural light to pour into the gloomy stairwells situated below. The most recognizable latarnia of the lot, the custard yellow one overlooking Rynek Starego Miasto, is now open to those visiting the Museum of Warsaw. Accessed by a steep set of creaky stairs, all you’ll need is a head for heights.

MARIE CURIE (ul. Kościelna) Maria Skłodowska-Curie was baptized in the Church of the Visitation of the Virgin Mary, and since 2014 a monument of the world famous scientist has stood outside looking down towards the Wisła. Flanked

by benches, it’s become a popular spot to gather at sundown, not least for its views of the multimedia fountain park.

THE STONE STEPS (ul. Kamienne Schodki) With entry gained via a tight gap in the Old Town’s defensive walls, Kamienne Schodki was once little more than a plunging muddy pathway coming from the river. Though the first recorded mention of it came in 1527, it’s most famed for its associations with Napoleon – it’s said that he walked down here in 1806, pondering eastern conquests with Prince Poniatowski by his side (it’s also written, however, he was less than impressed by the vile smells and general state of decay). It’s changed much since those years, and now you’ll find ul. Brzozowa slashing the full length of the stone stairwell in half. The view, too, has altered with the passage of time, meaning you’re unlikely to get the same perspective that Napoleon enjoyed (and none of the smells). warsawinsider.pl

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PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA, EXCEPT OPPOSITE PAGE TOP; SHUTTERSTOCK

OLD TOWN

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(CLOCKWISE FROM OPPOSITE PAGE)

GNOJNA GÓRA (ul. Brzozowa) Dip through the arched blue building on ul. Dawna to reach Gnojna Góra (Dung Hill). Despite its somewhat alarming name, the unimpeded views of Praga have made the area one of Warsaw’s romantic hotspots, a point affirmed by the dozens of ‘love locks’ that have been clamped onto the railings. With that in mind, you’ve every right to be a little puzzled how it earned its name in the first place. To find the answer one needs to travel back to medieval times when the grassy knoll was used as the city’s garbage tip: according to some sources, those suffering from syphilis would be buried up to their necks in poop in a bid to cure them of their ills.

ST ANNE’S CHURCH (Krakowskie Przedmieście 6) Having made it through the war with just superficial flesh wounds, St. Anne’s came close to tumbling down entirely after the post-war construction of the W-Z tunnel rendered the surrounding ground unstable – only round-the-clock work by a team of 400 engineers saved the whole thing from toppling. That’s good news for you for the glories of this church are numerous: the magnificent Baroque interior is only outshone by a viewing platform found on top of the bell tower. See for yourself by panting your way up the 150 steps – grandstand views of Pl. Zamkowy await.

THE ONE THAT GOT AWAY The most delicious view you’ll never see? That’s from a tiny French balcony overlooking the Barbakan. Perched above the clouds, this fairy tale vantage point looks like something straight out of Harry Potter. Certainly, it’s easy to imagine the adjoining flat as home to a reclusive author surrounded by dusty manuscripts and assorted clutter. And maybe it is...

warsawinsider.pl

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A DAY ON THE WISŁA

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MOST G DA Ń S K I

TAKE ME TO THE RIVER

2 MOST Ś L Ą S KO DĄ B R O W S K I

Once again, summer signals a mass migration towards the Wisła…

It’s all about the Wisła this summer.

Though delivered way behind schedule, the latest stretch of riverside promenade to open (between the Copernicus Center and Modern Art Museum) did so amid a cacophony of cheers. Even Warsaw’s mayor, Hanna Gronkiewicz-Waltz, allowed herself to get a touch carried away: “You won’t find boulevards like this anywhere else,” said the Mayor during the opening ceremony, “not on the Tiber, the Thames or the Seine. This is one of the best promenades in Europe, possibly even the world.”

An exaggeration? Quite probably.

Nonetheless, just the sheer scale of the Wisła’s transformation has made it easy to get caught up in the hype. After all, you don’t have to go far back to remember when it was a malignant area riddled with hazards: decapitated heads under barges, women being routinely pestered, and Japanese tourists being tossed in the river by drunk, local goons. Now, it seems to be the epitome of Warsaw’s progress: a buzzy, modern area that’s sparky and cosmopolitan…

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MOST Ś W I Ę T O K R Z YS K I

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7

4 5 6

MOST P O N I AT O W S K I E G O

MOST Ł A Z I E N KO W S K I

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1. Boogaloo

5. Grunt i Woda

2. La Playa

6. Cud Nad Wisłą

(Wybrzeże Gdynskie 2) A place that’s all lairy Hawaiian style, neon cocktails and token tiki décor. At night it becomes one big party: the kind of place where you end up waving your shirt over your head.

Three cheers for the food: ace Mexican by Maria Kolendra.

(ul. Wybrzeże Helskie 1/5) One of the craziest summer nights you could wish for: though around for years, the popularity of this beach club shows no sign of waning.

3. Wynurzenie

(Bulwar Grzymały Siedleckiego) Putting the bar into barge, bounce across a gangplank to board this summer hit. Beers are provided by Raduga, and food courtesy of Texas-raised Zbyszek Gawron: it’s hot, Mexican and perfect for sunset.

4. Babie Lato

(Bulwar Flotylli Wiślanej) Glimmering views of the National Stadium await at Babie Lato, a cult hit with its own sandy beach. But the chat is all about the adjoining Lowcy Syren, a street-food joint run by the acclaimed Pogromcy Meatów.

(Bulwar Flotylli Wiślanej) Utilizing ingredients grown in their own garden, Grunt i Woda’s offer extends to hard-hitting, author’s cocktails and an Asian street food stall run by Shoku restaurant.

(Bulwar Flotylli Wiślanej) The hedonists choice.

Once evening hits this frenetic beach bar becomes one massive, undulating wall of party din. Find food supplied by the hip hop lads from Gringo.

7. Miami Wars

(Bulwar Zaruskiego 12) Found on a steep riverbank overlooking the water, Miami Wars specialize in speedboat hire and seafood grilled on-site. The bar area has become quite the party spot and now also has a seasonal outpost of Tel Aviv.

8. Miejsce

(ul. Zaruskiego) A beautiful, modern floating facility with indoor and outdoor seating: so no worries about inclement weather. With midnight closing hours, it’s more a restrained place to eat and drink rather than a full-on frat party riot. warsawinsider.pl

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A DAY ON THE WISŁA

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PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

A DAY ON THE WISŁA

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Partner Spotlight The latest marketplace news from the Warsaw Insider’s friends and advertisers…

Ice Dream

Smaki Warszawy isn’t only famous for its prize-winning meringue but also our high quality natural ice cream. From our favorite flavors, guests travel across Warsaw to try scoops of Sicilian pistachio, salty caramel, browned butter, mascarpone with blackcurrant and crunchy Belgian chocolate, chia with mango and coconut and muesli – of course, we’ve also got the full range of more classic flavors, a point that guarantees that guests will find a double serving of heaven in a cone!

Smaki Warszawy Pl.Grzybowski 2 & ul. Felińskiego 52

Nature First

Aiming to reintroduce concepts of ‘simplicity’ and ‘joy’ to the cooking experience, Bazar Kocha will be unveiling a seasonal six course menu between that shall celebrate forgotten culinary skills and techniques. Based on extensive research carried out by owner Marcin Koch and chef Tomasz Mackowiak, the menu will be honed around ingredients naturally processed at Bazar Kocha itself. Consisting of two starters, soup, two mains and dessert, this promises to be one of the standout culinary moments this summer.

Bazar Kocha ul. Mokotowska 33/35, bazarkocha.pl

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NEWSFLASH! If you’re down south this summer then drop by RestoBar Ogień

(fb.com/RestoBar-Ogień). Devised by the owners of Koziarnia farm, the project hosts guest chefs each weekend, among them luminaries such as Aleksander Baron of Solec 44. Already, it’s captivated the foodie press!

Happy Birthday!

One of Warsaw’s best known bars will be letting its hair down to celebrate its landmark eighth birthday this July. Join the team at Warszawa Powiśle for what’s certain to be a night of unrestrained hedonism.

Regarded as one of the most influential venues of recent times, the management have promised gifts through the day as well as a DJ set courtesy of Little Gin (Gin Platonic / Radio Kampus). For further details, check their Facebook page. Admission is free.

Warszawa Powiśle ul. Kruczkowskiego 3b

An Amber Summer

High on seasonality, The Amber Room will be unveiling a new menu inspired by the irresistibly lavish tastes of the summer. Chef Robert Skubisz will present over twenty new dishes incorporating the freshest herbs and vegetables around, presenting them in a manner that’s modern, edgy and of course artistic. Highly recommended by the Michelin guide, and recognized as the birthplace of contemporary Polish cuisine, we look forward to welcoming you in the warm weeks ahead.

The Amber Room Al. Ujazdowskie 13, amberroom.pl

www.warsawinsider.pl warsawinsider.pl

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Serial Griller

What can beat the taste and thick, smoky aroma of a BBQ? However, it’s important to pay attention to the way we barbecue to ensure the food is healthy enough for all – children included!

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enerally speaking, people mostly barbecue meat products. Barbecuing melts meat fat, therefore it’s perfect for weight-watchers. It also boosts the natural flavors of meat and improves its health qualities. Yet aside from that, fish, vegetables, fruit and cheese are also perfectly suited to barbecuing. But let’s first focus on meat seeing that its preparation requires more time due to marinating and roasting considerations.

Marinating requires the highest quality spices. You can prepare your own mixtures or buy readymade spice blends that do not contain monosodium glutamate (MSG); those are the healthiest, and although MSG (E621) enhances taste, it also leads to obesity and can cause headaches. One should remember that some spice blends contain salt, therefore, don’t go over-thetop when spicing the meat – spices are there to emphasize taste, not to mask it!

When deciding how long to marinate, consider both the origin and texture of the meat. Lamb, pork, beef and venison should be marinated one day earlier to prevent the meat becoming too ‘gamy’. A few hours is usually enough time to marinate chicken and other poultry meat products, and remember that marinated meat should always be kept in the fridge.

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For the best BBQ results one needs top quality meat.

At Befsztyk.pl we are proud that our online store on supplies customers in Warsaw and beyond with the best meat available. This includes delicious lamb sausages, fresh meat (steaks and hamburgers), marinated pork neck, chicken nuggets, chicken wings, pancetta and ham steaks. Further, try our sensational homemade marinades which are available in three flavors: herbal, spicy Mexican and mild barbecue. All of them, of course, are MSG free.

Marinated meat does not require too much barbecuing time, hence it’s less affected by the chemical processes that might occur during combustion. It’s important to consider both the quality and origin of the charcoal before barbecuing. Equally, it’s vital to also think of method and timing when cooking meat, not to mention what to serve it with. Fresh greens, for instance, not only neutralize fats and fight free radicals, but also contain vitamins such as B6, B12 and folic acid that are essential for blood vessels. Eating both veggies and salads should be a part of your barbecue routine, while a brisk walk after will keep you in shape after eating that tasty rib-eye.

Befsztyk.pl ul. Puławska 176/178 & ul. Dygata 3, befsztyk.pl

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1. NECKLACE

by Tory Burch, zł. 715

2. SUNGLASSES

3

by Fendi, zł. 1,745

3. HAT

by Maison Michel, zł. 2,980

4. BLOUSE

by Self Portrait, zł. 1,355

5. ESPADRILLES

by Tory Burch, zł. 912

6. CARDIGAN

1

by Tory Burch, zł. 1,640

7. EARRINGS

by Tory Burch, zł. 572

8. BAG

2

by Polo Ralph Lauren, zł. 590

9. WATCH

by Kenzo, zł. 1,080

HOLIDAYS AHOY! 4

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7

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10. CAP

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by Moncler, zł. 480

11. ESPADRILLES

by Polo Ralph Lauren, zł. 435

12. PERFUME

by Tom Ford, zł. 495/30 ml

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13. BLOUSE

by Polo Ralph Lauren, zł. 365

14. SHORTS

by Fay, zł. 835

15. BELT

by Polo Ralph Lauren, zł. 325

16. SUNGLASSES

11

by Celine, zł.1,910

17. POLO SHIRT by Polo Ralph Lauren, zł. 460

18. BACKPACK

by Christian Louboutin, zł. 7,895

This summer keep it nautical but nice by adopting the classic ‘sailor chic’ look. Whether you’re headed for the French Riviera or just the Wisła Riverfront, it’s a style that’s elegant and stylish yet also casual and cool...

(all items available at Moliera 2, www.moliera2.com) & Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, www.plactrzechkrzyzy.com)

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All In The Ritual The craft of the cocktail returns to Mazowiecka…

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ou could call it a second life, you could call it a resurrection. Either way, the message is loud and proud: Mazowiecka is back. Once viewed as the beating heart of after dark Warsaw, recent years saw its importance eroded – for the capital’s new generation of drinkers, the street had become largely obsolete: yesterday’s story in a city of tomorrow. But it wasn’t the street that was the problem, merely the places that were on it. As it turns out though, all it needed was a bold new project to give it a shot in the arm and get people talking. That project? Ritual.

Part of Mazowiecka’s problem? Frankly, it had lost its sex appeal. From the outset, Ritual have restored that sense of seductive self-confidence: looking dark and sensual, this two-level space unwraps before you like some elaborate adventure. Candles flicker, atmosphere crackles – moving towards the bar, slinky, sultry club creatures of unfathomable beauty prowl past with drinks poised in hand.

And what drinks they are. Much effort has been made to recruit the right staff, and the result is a frontline team who view their work as a form of art. Based on impeccable ingredients, cocktails here are utterly irreproachable: there are home-made infusions and fragrant blends; for one drink, a blowtorch is utilized; for another, the house version of the Manhattan, a cigar box opens to reveal a drink served amid billowing, pungent smoke. All of a sudden, you understand the name, for this is a place that celebrates and ritualizes the cocktail craft.

But there’s more than just drinks. Thrust high up in a crow’s nest, DJs deliver a music program in line with expectations. Heating up gradually as the night progresses, Ritual moves organically from being a voluptuous bar to a spicy club and by doing so, it doesn’t just rekindle Mazowiecka golden age, it goes a step better.

Ritual ul. Mazowiecka 12, ritualwarsaw.com

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CUI H S I L O

SINE

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A Passion For Cars

Those who are aware of the existence of Supercar Club Poland visit www.supercarclub.pl and feel as if they are backstage during a theater performance...

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rowsing the list of club cars, they wonder what the show, in which the vehicles star, is all about, and what roles they will play. Comparing engine power and performance numbers of the cars only introduces the false notion that they are similar. Yet while they can be compared and discussed, doing so is more akin to discussing the ingredients of the dishes served in a restaurant rather than their flavors and textures.

Those ready to take the big step forward cross the other side of the curtain and become members of Supercar Club Poland. They drive the club’s cars on an everyday basis and during group trips, compare the different characteristics and technical origins of our vehicles and learn more about the traditions of the Porsche, Aston Martin, Lamborghini, Ferrari and Maserati.

Our driving trips are the quintessence of the club, with our owner, rally driver Krzysztof Hołowczyc, counting them as one of the club’s standout attractions. While the cars’ engines cool down in the garage, drivers exchange opinions about their vehicles’ handling. This is when, behind the curtain, nobody quotes acceleration numbers anymore. Instead, the conversation is all about the different details of driving: about how technological and aerodynamic solutions, coupled with the exciting routes we take, create the complete sports car experi-

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ence. Each section of the journey – whether it’s down an Alpine pass, or along a Dinaric ridge or through the labyrinthine Apennine Hills – is like reading a novel, which is then later discussed with a cognac in hand.

A Supercar Club member is entitled to book one of several dozen cars and take an individual weekend or holiday trip in it. However, what makes the experience so unique is spending time together with other Club members and their vehicles and sharing your passion with them. These shared experiences manifest themselves in a sense of community that’s painfully rare on the roads today.

Mass-produced cars are similar to the food served in motorway service stations: uniform and bland. On the other hand, unique cars, such as those offered by the Supercar Club, are like traditional restaurants: run with passion. The journey of discovering and understanding them – which is more about art than technology – has bonded a growing number of enthusiasts for over six years now. Their mutual discovery of local cuisine, vineyards, museums and automotive plants, serves the purpose of instilling a sense of traditional culture into club members. And we hope to go even further, aiming to revive the ambitious social class that is re-emerging in Poland right now.

WARSAW DINING DESTINATION indoor foodhall garden spaces 19 great restaurants exciting events cafes and speciality shops live music

Hala Koszyki

FEEL THE WARSAW BEAT

63. Koszykowa Street

5 min from Warsaw Central Station www.koszyki.com

|

HalaKoszyki

EAT!

PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

BE PACIFIC!

Candy floss pink and ocean blue? Remarkably, these colors work thanks to lighting that’s kept dimmed and dark: inspired by 80s Mexico City, Pacyfik looks and feels raw and gritty, hip and happening. Catering to more than just the overspill from Hala Koszyki, this hangout has assumed immediate cult status and the kind of street terrace buzz that shouts summer in the city. Though primarily known for their signature Mezcal and Tequila shots and cocktails, the menu too is winning the plaudits: jalapeno ‘slaw, ceviche, poke and ‘fire chicken’ tacos – it’s the definitive diet of the young, urban creative.

Bar Pacyfik ul. Hoża 61

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Review

STAR GAZING

Rebranded in all but name, La Maison Gourmand finds itself ushered inside Warsaw’s elite circle of fine dining haunts...

Unrecognizable from its previous incarnation, the restaurant wing of La Maison has undergone a considerable refurbishment to lend it more gravitas. The big change, however, is the food: the daily changing menu has been purposefully kept limited (two or three starters and mains), allowing Wilamowski’s crew to keep standards high. On our visit, that means a sophisticated French duck pate in croute cake with raspberry jam and long pepper; and cod fillet a la Grenobloise: served in a milk emulsion and glazed with butter, it’s an exceptional dish that confirms the chef isn’t kidding about his Michelin pretentions.

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PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

THE PLACE

La Maison Gourmand ul. Chłodna 15, lamaison.pl

THE CHEF

“Just like a footballer wants to win the Champions League,” says Arkadiusz Wilamowski, “so I want to win a Michelin star.” More than hollow words, the chef’s ambition is backedup by a CV that includes some of the top restaurants in Europe: Hibiscus, Sketch London, and Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester. Having assembled a tightly-knit team of young talent, the target is now to implement the world-class standards with which Wilamowski is so familiar.

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Review: notes from the front line The Place

Always, the temptation exists to carve the city in two: Warsaw A (the left side) and Warsaw B (the right side). Doing so, however, overlooks that there’s also a Warsaw A Plus. Consider that to be Saska Kępa. An affluent enclave of elegance and class, The Bell befits the postcode: chic, contemporary interiors high on geometric patterning and polished craftsman’s touches – discreet, circular steel lighting, v-shaped wall tiles and sturdy wood finishes. It’s all a pleasure to admire. But do so another time, for to visit The Bell and forego the garden is a crime punished by death. Cascading with greenery and plant life, this is a verdant, leafy sanctuary in which time seems to pause.

Chef

Step forward Jan Piecuch. Affable, conversational and confident, it’s the latter quality that shines out in his cooking.

Raised largely in Nigeria, Piecuch’s international background has gifted the chef with an extraordinary palette and an experimental edge. Having launched, fixed and developed numerous restaurants about town, his latest posting has seen him deconstruct the menu and apply his own trademark style: in a nutshell, that means plenty of natural flavors given unexpected twists.

Kicking-off

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

Such is Poland, it all begins with beef tartar – and sure, while it looks like any other of the three thousand tartars the Insider has ordered, it it certainly doesn’t eat the same. Full of surpris-

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The Bell ul. Zwycięzców 21, thebell.pl

ing bite and vigor, it’s a strong contender for our starter of the summer. But wait, no it’s not, for then comes a marinated tuna with a vegetable salsa: fresh, light and zippy, this ceviche-style dish has been designed for the weather. Order it. But perhaps the biggest revelation, that’s the sorrel soup with pomegranate and chickpeas: deep and complex, tastes change and fluctuate with each spoonful taken.

The Main Event

Two standouts: first, halibut in miso, wild broccoli and sorrel sauce. I’ll readily confess, I’m not the biggest fish lover around, but a growing number of restaurants have led me to restock.

Now, you can add The Bell to that list – firm and meaty yet delicate and moist, it’s a fish that flaps with the best. But this isn’t the only masterstroke that’s landed on the table. Opposite stands an aged entrecote showered with greens and accompanied with chips. The latter are like none you will have eaten in Warsaw before: crunchy on the outside but as fluffy as a cloud on the inside. As for the entrecote itself, that’s a hulking riot of raucous flavor: a man’s meal that leaves you feeling like a Flintstone.

Afters

If I’m in a restaurant, then dessert is never far away. And so, with the mains dispatched, a lemon tart swiftly arrives with a scoop of homemade vanilla ice cream: it’s an honest finish that’s subtle and dainty but with that sticky hint of goo that all desserts need.

uch is Poland, it all “ Sbegins with beef tartar – and sure, while it looks like any other of the three thousand tartars the Insider has ordered, it it certainly doesn’t eat the same.

Conclusions

Original in concept and flawless in its execution, The Bell is what Saska Kępa has been crying out for: somewhere stylish but not overtly fancy. This isn’t a place of gels and foams, of stupid plates and wacky ideas. The thought process behind both the restaurant and its menu has been logical and coherent; at the same time, and like all great magicians, Jan Piecuch knows how and when to introduce angles and accents you wouldn’t otherwise expect – he’s not being a smart arse there, he’s just being brilliant. (AW)

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restaurant listings

YOU’VE TRIED ALL THE REST, NOW TRY THE BEST!

By in large, you can expect to pay between zł. 20-35 for starters, and zł.

35-70 for mains. Expect those prices to double in the case of the city’s fine dining venues. Those wishing to cut costs should seek out the weekday business lunch deals now offered by most restaurants. When tipping, 1020% is considered polite though be aware of automatic service charges in some venues.

2016 Best of Warsaw Award Winner BEST OF WARSAW 2016 KEY WINNERS Fine Dining - Nolita Casual Dining - MOD Upscale Casual - Dyletanci & Rozbrat20 Modern Polish - Mała Polana Smaków

Newly Opened!

Le Cedre Lounge Grzybowska 5A Tel 22 299 7299

Le Cedre 61

(opposite the zoo) Al. Solidarności 61, Praga Tel 22 670 1166

Le Cedre 84

(opposite the court) Al. Solidarności 84 Tel 22 618 8999

www.lecedre.pl

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american 42 bakeries 42 balkan & russian 43 british 43 burgers & street food 43 chinese 44 fine dining 44 french 46 georgian 46 greek & turkish 47 hungarian 47 indian 47 indonesian 48 international 48 italian 55 japanese & sushi 56 jewish 57 korean 57 latin & spanish 57 mexican 57 middle eastern 59 polish 60 seafood 66 specialty food shops 67 steak houses 67 thai 68 vegan 68

american Brooklyn Restaurant & Bar Gone are the fancy pants culinary creations once found in the basement, ousted in favor of a menu of pimped-up soul and street food, salads and steaks.

This means fresh tacos not to mention the best-selling ‘Mito’s Beef Ribs’. The ground floor burger bar is more prosaic, offering a standard line-up of burgers and wings. (C4) Al. Jana Pawła II 18 (Rondo ONZ), tel. 22 114 3434, brooklynbw.eu

Hard Rock Café Instantly recognizable by the giant neon guitar outside, Hard Rock has a pierced staff of skater boys and rock girls and a menu that is, if nothing else, completely reliable. Peruse rock’n’roll swag that includes Joplin’s blouse, Prince’s guitar and Shakira’s pants. (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, hardrockcafe.pl

bakeries Aromat That many consider this their favorite bakery says it all. French flour and an expert baker ensure brilliant results, while the lemon éclairs deserve their own Facebook page. (C4) ul. Sienna 39, fb.com/piekarnia.aromat Café Vincent Queues build quickly as locals line up to buy baguettes, cinnamon rolls, lemon croissants and beautiful pains au chocolat. But people don’t just head in then out, a small wine list and brilliant people spying opportunities cause many to hang around. (D3) ul. Nowy Świat 64 Paul Specializing in pastries, baguettes and other baked goods, this French chain have rapidly entrenched themselves in the capital following their debut last year.

Various locations, boulangeries-paul.com Qki QKI is the work of two sisters (in-law!) with a passion for the sweeter things in life. Shunning shortcuts and artificial nasties, cookies, cakes and pastries comprise the bulk of the offer here. ul.

Topiel 19 & ul. Belgradzka 14, qki.waw.pl

Restaurant Listings Rozbrat 20 Bakery & Wine Corner Best known for fathering Butchery & Wine, Daniel Pawełek makes his mark on Powiśle with the launch of Rozbrat 20, a high-end bakery that’s worthy of the rave reviews. Breakfast here is among the best you’ll find in Warsaw.

(F5) ul. Rozbrat 20, rozbrat20.com.pl

balkan Ba Adriatico As a starter, then the grilled peppers stuffed with creamy, regional cheese are irresistible. But then so too the octopus salad. Mains are a victory of simplicity, with dishes like skewered minced beef served with a bitey sauce and a soft, pillowy Lepinja bread. Yet ignore Thursday seafood night at your peril. Croatian-run, this neighborhood spot has an unassuming air that belies the general quality. (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 50/52, ba-adriatico.pl

british Ę Rybę A couple of places have tried to emulate the taste of the British seaside, but this is the de facto codfather. Here’s a spot where the chips are golden, the fish fresh and the batter crisp and light. Now also serving British breakfast, albeit at a time when most normal people will have already eaten. (E4) Al. Jana Pawła II 18, erybe.pl

burgers & street food Barn Burger Retaining a loyal crowd ever since their 2012 entry on the burger circuit, Barn Burger offer a loud and lively atmosphere and much celebrated burgers with goofy names like Heart Attack and Muppet.

The list by the door notes the results of

their American-style eating competitions / greed-fests. (D4) ul. Złota 9. tel. 512 157 567, barnburger.pl Beef’N’Roll If the wheels have fallen off the burger craze then no-one told Beef’N’Roll.

Originating as a food truck, their success has been such that a fixed venue was required. Everything about the food and drink suggests quality is the main consideration. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel.

531 707 070, beefnroll.pl Nocny Market Set on and around a disused train platform, this weekend hangout gets thronged: guys with waxed whiskers queue for new wave beer while uber cool girls cast Jessica Rabbit eyes at a hip hop DJ. Mostly though, it’s a place that’s about food: an ever evolving line-up brings together not just food trucks, but quality restaurants hawking their specials from tiny stalls – keep an eye on their facebook

Traditional Polish cuisine • Live music • The best wine, regional beer and spirits • Grand Kredens • 20 years full of tradition

Share your opinion!

Al. Jerozolimskie 111, tel. +48 22 629 80 08. mob: +48 697 900 000, kredens@kredens@kredens.com.pl, www.kredens.com.pl

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Restaurant Listings to see who is booked for the weekend.

(A5) ul. Towarowa 3 (Past Warszawa Główna Train Station) Pogromcy Meatów Yearn no more for the elusive flavor of the backyard BBQ. Specializing in grilled meat, find exactly just that loaded into artisan buns alongside locally grown greens. The sense of homespun quality makes this the kind of comfort food that Warsaw has been missing for years. (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, tel. 505 703 508 Warburger While Warsaw has lost its appetite for burgers, you wouldn’t necessarily tell by popping in WarBurger. Set inside a diminutive cabin, join the scrum for jazzed-up burgers that use slow-food ingredients. If not the best, they’re most certainly up there. (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1, warburger.pl

chinese Pańska 85 Ample in size, the interiors speak of money well spent. This is especially true because despite the luxury trimmings Pańska looks good without ever losing its dignity. With their kitchen staff

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headhunted from across China, the food sets a standard that has yet to be seen in any Chinese restaurant in Warsaw: there’s delicate salmon rolls wrapped in mango; dim sum that are pouches of pure goodness; and Sichuan-style pork that’s a blaze of sizzle and spice. The Beijing Duck, carved and served table-side, is the highlight. (B4) ul. Pańska 85, panska85.com Regina Bar Stepping past a pair of flowing red drapes at the entrance, guests are ushered in to discover an eclectic world that marries the tastes of New York’s Little Italy to Chinatown next door. This is done excellently with the menu presenting the very essence of ethnic comfort food: General Tso’s chicken, Cantonese roast duck and light, leopard-spotted pizzas.

Brought to you by the makers of MOD, it’s therefore natural that the original style extends to kooky interiors tinged with a trace of retro: a tall mirrored wall and the kind of sparkling chandelier last seen in Boogie Nights. (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, fb.com/Reginabar Rico’s Concept Never let a name fool you. While Rico’s might sound more like a Mexican food truck, the reality presents a former bathhouse luxuriously decorated with hand-painted Majolica, swanky fittings and even a shimmery pool. The menu has won plaudits around town for its stunning

authenticity. Full review next issue. ul.

Krakowskie Przedmieście16/18

fine dining Amber Room at the Sobański Palace Set in the pre-war Pałac Sobańskich, this wedding white manor house is the epitome of luxury: plush, discreet, elegant and serene, it unwraps like the most beautiful of presents – a network of corridors and stairwells take guests through a series of rooms and side-chambers.

Impossibly almost, the food measures up to the surrounds.For mains, the sea trout is spectacular, arriving alongside creamy root parsley and fried cubed cucumbers.

(E6) Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, amberroom.pl Atelier Amaro The recipient of Poland’s first Michelin star, Atelier promotes pedigree Polish produce enhanced by modern techniques, with courses interspersed by occasionally bizarre interludes (leaves, flowers, twigs, etc.). It’s an extraordinary dining experience, and one which confirms the growing cult of Wojciech Amaro. In the hours you’re here the world stops and you leave feeling like James Bond. Reservations are mandatory, but this is a restaurant that tops the foodie bucket list. (E6) ul. Agrykola 1, tel. 22 628 5747, atelieramaro.pl

Restaurant Listings

Belvedere Łazienki Królewskie Set in an imperial age glass orangery, it’s festooned with intricate latticework and botanical exotica. The updated interiors are the work of acclaimed set designer Boris Kudlicka, and lend a fresh, contemporary tone that goes hand in hand with the menu. But behind the gels and emulsions and pretty little swirls, this is cooking of substantial depth; it’s cooking that takes you to the very soul of Polish nature. ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. 22 558 6701, belvedere.com.pl

splash with an upmarket, showbizzy crowd enjoying complex cooking amid a luxurious interior of pristine linen and glinting tableware. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 31, n31restaurant.pl Nolita BEST WAWA 2016 “Fine Dining” The deluxe dining scene is filling out in Warsaw, and there’s now a few restau-

rants that can present an equitable claim for the No. 1 spot. However, it’s Nolita that perch at the top, with a menu that sees largely classical recipes through a sharp, modern prism – chef Jacek Grochowina has created a place that’s coherent and understandable without sacrificing values of innovation. Looking chic and high end, the tastes and sensations in this restaurant are thrilling: diners are left speechless by the tuna tartar, while the aged beef fillet is an Insider mainstay.

(D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 292 0424, nolita.pl

La Rotisserie It began with duck foie gras and finished with a caramel Valrhona chocolate parfait. In between came a scallop salad with plums, almonds and tarragon tempura; a grilled tuna; and a seared Barbary duck with blackberry ginger sauce and the kind of parsnips you never knew existed.

The Insider’s visit at the end of 2016 was nothing if not a reassertion of chef Paweł Oszczyk’s ample skill. Enjoy one of Warsaw’s top dining experiences inside a gloriously seductive dining room that’s been recently updated. (C1) ul. Kościelna 12 (Le Régina Hotel), tel. 22 531 6070, leregina.com L’enfant Terrible Looking like he’s just swaggered in from a rock concert, the unconventional style of Michał Bryś goes beyond surface detail alone. Promising maximum excitement, his imaginative menu isn’t short on daring twists and rollercoaster highs.

Maverick in every sense of the word, this is a chef that pushes boundaries in a way few others would dare. Though the menu changes often, keep an eye on recurring classics such as ‘tomatoes, tomatoes, tomatoes’, a kickass course that presents the humble tomato in about ten different forms! More informal than the other top bracket restaurants, the brainwashed loyalty of Enfant’s fans says much for it. (D8) ul. Sandomierska 13 (enter from Rejtana), tel. 22 119 5705, eterrible.pl N31 One of the original pioneers of modern Polish cooking returns with renewed vigor. That’s Robert Sowa, and his N31 restaurant has already made a massive

We serve our passion and joy which you can savor with every bite.

Reservation: +48 22 102 20 70, biuro@bazarkocha.pl

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Restaurant Listings Platter by Karol Okrasa It’s a fact that Okrasa’s appearances in the kitchen are fleeting and rare, but that’s done nothing to hurt this restaurant’s prestige. Head chef Łukasz Pielak has proved to be a lethal assassin, executing the ideas of his mentor with accuracy and passion. The cooking is detailed, balanced and elegant, with the highlight of our visit being deer in plum sauce. A thing of imperial, velvety richness it’s a dish that turns up the volume on a memorable experience. (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (Hotel InterContinental Warsaw), warsaw.intercontinental.com Salto Fine dining gets a South American makeover thanks to Martin Gimenez Castro, an Argentinean who has emerged as one of the most influential chefs in Poland. While some critics grumble that Warsaw’s top end scene has flat-lined, Salto push the envelope in terms of breaking boundaries and probing new ground. Light, fresh and full of zing, the ceviche is a must, as is a delve around the Sunday steak menu. Desserts, meanwhile, are among the most inventive in town: a brilliant demonstration of Castro’s passion and personality, order the ‘Childhood / Irresponsible / Fantasy / Fun’ and you’ll understand what we mean. (D5) ul. Wilcza 73 (enter from Emilii Plater), tel. 22 584 8771, saltorestauracja.pl

Senses Andrea Camastra’s Michelin-starred tasting menu is a succession of impossible highs and makes a big deal of scientific methods and culinary advances. Full of theater and unpredictable flourishes (billowing mists, imaginative presentation, edible cigars...), this restaurant is never short on dare and dazzle. (C2) ul. Bielańska 12, tel. 22 331 9697, sensesrestaurant.pl Signature You feel a millionaire just being here: we’ve heard the interiors described as a ‘Monegasque state of mind’, and that’s not a bad way to surmise a décor that’s all about friezes and reliefs dated from the time this was the Soviet Embassy, lavish 1950s Oswald chairs, lighting by Serge Mouille and original Marilyn photos shot by the acclaimed Milton Greene.

Food-wise the restaurant makes a massive splash with a menu that’s clever, creative and pretty. Count on Signature’s seasonally changing desserts providing a happy ending. (D5) ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 55 38755, signaturerestaurant.pl

french No Comment Set inside one of those momentous towers that support Most Poniatowskiego, you don’t feel like you’re in a restaurant,

you’ll feel like you’re in a film – something weird by Aronofsky or Lynch. Seating is small and tight, set around glass-topped tables that favor form over function. But there’s a reasoning behind this which soon becomes apparent. No Comment is all about intimacy, about bending over platters for surreptitious slurps of New Zealand oysters. It’s about decadence, about clinking glasses and toasting the moment. Most of all, it’s about authentic French style. (F4) Al. 3 Maja 16/18A, fb.com/nocommentwarszawa

georgian Chinkali Signposted by a Georgian-language shingle, there’s a real sense of pleasure about this place. More modern than your typical folksy ethnic outpost, Chinkali’s draw is indeed its chinkali: dough purses packed with meaty broth. There’s a genuine homemade quality to these slurpy bundles of joy, meaning that while they’re authentic, consistency can vary. And don’t miss out on the red bean chachapuri washed down with a mouthwash-colored tarragon lemonade. (D4) ul. Zgoda 3 Klukovka Jana Pawła’s pavilions are the unlikely location of this culinary beacon: amid the aggressive waft of its kebab shop neighbors, Klukova presents itself as a warming mouse hole filled with banter, babble and rich aromas. Specializing in the foods of ‘the east’, this means a menu inspired by the tastes of Georgia, Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan, and more. The mutton manty dumplings are great, and best appreciated with a bottle of unfiltered Lithuanian beer. (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 45A, klukovka.pl Rusiko Explaining Georgian cuisine isn’t all that hard. To the uninitiated, it’s representative of the heart, spirit and passion of its people, a cuisine the values the concept of the feast: wine, laughter and song find themselves elevated to roles of primary importance. A food of life, spice and whole-hearted tastes, consider Rusiko as the best ambassador there is for this surprisingly diverse kitchen. Live music lends the weekends a good-humored twist.

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Restaurant Listings Note: closed Monday. (E5) Al. Ujazdowskie 22, tel. 22 629 0628, rusiko.pl

greek & turkish Paros Out of all of Warsaw’s Greek contributions Paros dazzles most with a glitzy look that’s a complete U-turn from the typical taverna look. Owned by the same team behind El Greco, the menu is identical, though a recent visit revealed a kitchen resting on its laurels – not one plate on our table was finished. (D4) ul. Jasna 14/16, tel. 22 828 1067, paros-restauracja.pl Santorini Santorini looks scuffed and tired but there’s a bonhomie present that instantly engages. The kitchen attaches no value to things like presentation, preferring instead to simply treat diners to piles of grilled and skewered food that consistently tastes right. ul. Egipska 7, tel. 22 672 0525, kregliccy.pl/santorini/ Sofra A highly respected Turkish eatery with a wondrous beef mussaka and a wholly admirable lineup of other ethnic dishes: the lamb shashlik has never failed us.

Pleasingly informal, this neighborhood redoubt feels cheerfully unforced, and it becomes an easy place to hang around in.

(C6) ul. Wilcza 71, tel. 731 847 731 Taverna Patris This Greek restaurant is not about sophistication and finesse, it’s about truth and taste. Likewise, the interiors have no airs and graces: there’s a rough and ready style that’s apt for noisy celebrations and familial occasions. Tawerna Patris is not about shallow details or surface appearances. Instead, it’s a place of depth, a place of integrity, a place of joy. (G4) ul.

Wał Miedzeszyński 407, tel 22 357 11 11, tawernapatris.pl

hungarian U Madziara U Madziara looks like it took two days to decorate. No-one goes here to marvel at the interiors though, they go in the

knowledge that they’ll find great food at prices all bank cards can support. Chef Gabor’s signature goulash is one of life’s simple pleasures, though the service can come across as distracted and inattentive.

(B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 620 1423, umadziara.pl

indian

Finest Authentic Indian Cuisine in Locations Around Warsaw

WWW.CURRY-HOUSE.PL

Bollywood Lounge Known for their raucous dusk-till-dawn parties, there is another less hedonistic roll filled by Bollywood: that of a restaurant. The menu is an uncomplicated, classic affair that’s an ideal primer for the party ahead. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, tel. 22 827 0283, bollywoodlounge.pl Bombaj Masala Probably the best looking Indian restaurant in Warsaw. After a disappointing couple of years Bombaj have upped their game and made a sparkling return to form. Bland, oily dishes have been replaced with all the rich, intense tastes you’ve come to hope for. (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 606 688 777, bombajmasala.pl

HOŻA 54

536 443 771

ŻEROMSKIEGO 81 Curry House Ask for something extra hot in Curry House and by Vishnu that’s what you’ll get. Yet at Curry House there is more to sing about than just Poland’s highest voltage vindaloo. The curries are rich and sumptuous and consistently cited as among the best in the city. If in doubt, the chicken tikka masala is a fail-safe request. ul. Żeromskiego 81 & ul. Hoża 54 &ul. Towarowa 35, curry-house.pl

508 870 774

WWW.HOUSE-OF-CURRY.PL

Curry Leaf The post-industrial style is diluted by the number of Indian trinkets hanging off the vents and pipes. Owned by the same crew behind the lauded Curry House, you’d be completely correct to assume consistency and excellence. ul. Conrada 5, curryleaf.pl House of Curry Heat seekers can ‘enjoy’ a genuine deathby-fire experience at House of Curry,

PATRIOTÓW 11A, FALENICA 512 533 415 warsawinsider.pl

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Restaurant Listings though far milder curries are available for more sensitive palettes – either way, the experience is fantastic, and good news for those stuck out in the depths of Józefów. ul. Patriotów 11 A, house-ofcurry.pl

that’s deep and immensely satisfying.

Then there’s the vindaloo, an experience that leaves some close to spontaneous combustion. Undoubtedly one of the best regarded Indian restaurants in this town.

Al. KEN 47, tel. 22 213 0689, mrindia.pl

Mr. India Split on two levels the design is contemporary if a little characterless: leather banquettes that leave a sweaty bum print and wood paneling. No problem though, if it looks bland then the food isn’t. That means an incredible butter chicken

Namaste India Responsible for first bringing quality, budget Indian food to Warsaw, Namaste have grown from humble beginnings (three tables and cooking done in a cupboard-sized space behind a curtain) to evolve into a bona fide two-floored

restaurant. But expansion has come at the cost of quality – our last trip (March 2017) promises to be the last for some time.

(D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 15, tel. 22 357 0939, namasteindia.pl

indonesian Warung Jakarta The menu has a street foodie edge and is divided into steps wherein diners first pick out their choice of protein, then their rice, before concluding with any vegetables add-ons (e.g. pak choy, green beans or water spinach). While most Warsaw restaurants have a special lunch scheme going on, Warung’s is one that actually warrants a further look: find truly great off-menu dishes that are highly accessible to all levels of income. (D6) ul.

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international Aioli Once a gritty Stalinist leftover, Konstytucji has come a long way fast. A recent rush of bars and restaurants have aided the reintroduction of life to this concrete tundra, the most prominent of which being Aioli. Some might accuse it of being formulaic, but it’s clearly a formula that works: young and energetic, there’s a buzz here lasts long into the night.

Food-wise, it’s a steady choice based around burgers, pizzas and other things that their age bracket appreciates. (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 5, aioliinspiredbymini.pl Aioli This runaway hit has taken Warsaw by storm. It’s a jaunty space with hams hanging from hooks and long communal tables that thrive with life. Aioli’s breakfasts, sandwiches, pastas and pizzas are a lesson in clean, simple pleasure: nothing out of the world, just consistently good. This and the liberal prices mean there’s no shortage of people passing in and out the doors. (D3) ul. Świętokrzyska 18, tel. 22 290 102, aioli-cantine.com Ale Wino Dip through an archway to discover Ale Wino, a beautiful wine bar whose menu

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Restaurant Listings has been well tailored to the season.

Tweaked for the season is the pork belly, a Złotnicka pig adorned with apple sugar snap peas and celery mousse – gorgeous.

As for the wine, put your faith in the sommelier, Oliver. (F5) ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 628 3830, alewino.pl Bazar Kocha Designed to evoke the spirit of a farmers’ market, the woodsy interior is filled with stall-style units neatly stacked with jars and pots. Yet these are not decorative decoys, but part of a thoughtful grocery offer aimed at showcasing Kocha’s ownmade produce. Above all though, this is a restaurant whose menu is strongly influenced by concepts of ‘terroir’. The giant leg of lamb falls off the bone and is a dish to recommend and remember for several months to come.

(D6) ul. Mokotowska 33, bazarkocha.pl The Bell Cascading with greenery and plant life, The Bell’s back garden is one of Warsaw’s best kept summer secrets: a verdant sanctuary in which time seems to pause.

Just right for Saska Kepa, the sense of casual chic extends to an intelligent menu that’s been designed by the gifted Jan Piecuch. Highlights are numerous and frequent and include a sorrel soup with chickpeas and pomegranate; an exquisite halibut and miso; and aged entrecote served with the kind of chips you’ve

waited all your life for. (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 21, thebell.pl Bez Tytułu A beautifully decorated restaurant on trendy Poznanska. The menu has French and Polish accents and reflects the chef’s creative streak well. (D5) ul. Poznańska 16, beztytulu.com Bibenda The menu declares Bibenda to be ‘a celebration of food, drink and togetherness’, and that’s precisely what it is.

Augmenting the warm, busy interiors are a thoughtful selection of craft beers and a concise menu that varies from monthto-month. The apparent simplicity of the food is illusory and belies the kitchen’s knack for spotting interesting combinations such as goose with pumpkin puree, cranberry / red wine jam and chili caramelized beetroot. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 10, tel. 502 770 303, bibenda.pl Brasserie Warszawska Looking for classic cuisine with no daft flights of fancy? Here you have it. At a time when everyone wants to be Ferran Adrià, Brasserie has both a menu and interior that you can understand: panfried foie gras; elegant beef Rossini; and sinful apple tarte tatin, all served inside posh interiors of zinc-plated mirrors and chessboard floors. Their Michelin Bib Gourmand is a source of pride, but it’s the

number of repeat clients that are the ultimate paean to the skills of the chef.

(E5) ul. Górnośląska 24, tel. 22 628 9423, brasseriewarszawska.pl Bubbles Occupying a small, square room, it’s intimate and relaxed: a place busy with blackboards and bottles, crates and clutter. It radiates warmth and honesty. The food is exquisite, and includes big, meaty snails farmed in Mazury, and their signature dish: Swiss-style raclette. Presented on a wooden chopping board, this cheese dish is classic melty goodness, and served alongside a pile of potatoes, onions marinated with caramel and candied pumpkin. Considering the place doubles as a champagne bar the prices are remarkably moderate. (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 512 540 913, bubbles. com.pl Bułkę przez Bibułkę When Bułkę przez Bibułkę was opened the idea was simple – to create a boutique version of Subway: a high quality sandwich shop people would value. But after they started serving breakfast, the whole thing snowballed into a more bistro-style offer. Now there’s a second venue on Zgoda, it’s not just the quality that’s contributed to the success, but the atmosphere as well. ul. Zgoda 3 & ul.

Puławska 24, bulkeprzezbibulke.pl

Loft is the perfect place to pause for a moment for a coffee, to meet with friends for lunch or a late dinner – most of all, it’s a chance to escape the city bustle while remaining in the heart of Warsaw. ul. Złota 11 tel. 668 016 964 restauracjaloft.pl

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Restaurant Listings Casablanca Biały Kamień From the same team behind Na Lato comes Casablanca, a versatile venue that muddies the lines between café, restaurant, wine bar and hangout. Equally comfortable in each of these roles, it’s a place that feels fresh and cosmopolitan, not to mention completely in tune with the swank, glass surrounds. More to the point, it’s given wings to a part of Mokotów that before felt quite sterile. ul. Żaryna 2B Concept 13 You’d expect a rooftop meal at Poland’s

ultimate luxury department store to cost the earth, but that’s not the case. The zł. 50 lunch deal allows Joe Public to enjoy the considerable skills of Dariusz Barański. That he manages to create different pieces of art each and every afternoon is a testament to his talent – fellow chefs and foodies privately talk of him as a Michelin star in the making. (D4) ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7373 The Cool Cat Our visit featured a musical standoff between two waiters arguing over

possession of the laptop, and a genuine piece of plate art that was as delicious as it looked: beautiful deer surrounded by creative ingredients. Small menu and a fashionable crowd, but an immensely enjoyable place that adds further oomph to Powiśle. (F4) ul. Solec 38, tel. 787 698 700 Dekant Wine Bar Not just a contender for Warsaw’s best new wine bar, but also Warsaw’s best new restaurant! The tuna tartar comes with the added ka-boom of a nose clearing wasabi, while the filet mignon (a snip at zł.

79) is simply astonishing. The surprise are the ash-cooked potatoes, beautiful things with a char that wows. The desserts are few in number but equally outstanding: we fell in love with a passion fruit semifreddo with strawberries marinated in Grand Marnier. (F5) ul. Zajęcza 15, dekant. com.pl Der Elefant This leviathan restaurant unravels in a maze of wrought iron and monochrome tiles – beautiful to look at (it was created

by Oscar winning set designer Allan Starski), it’s caused a stir for more than just this alone. Where once the menu looked like it was devised by throwing darts at a cookbook, the focus has now been narrowed. While some of the dishes are strictly middling, the filet mignon (zł.

69) is one of the best meat deals in town in terms of quality / price / consistency. (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, tel. 22 890 0010, derelefant.com

A PLACE IN WHICH WINE PLAYS THE FIRST CHORD IN HARMONY WITH WHAT APPEARS ON THE PLATE…

WE WELCOME YOU

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Dom Here’s the very epitome of casual dining: set on the ground floor of a suburban house, the warm corners and garden views give Dom a real sense of homey charm. In line with all that is a menu that celebrates simple, honest cooking.

Everyone who visits ends up loving the place. ul. Mierosławskiego 12, tel. 509 165 712 Dyletanci BEST WAWA 2016 “Upscale Casual” Filled with crisp, modern citizens that radiate confidence, Dyletanci introduces itself as a bistro set with green banquettes and Tom Dixon lamps. The wine selection is among the best in the nation, while the cooking has been left

Restaurant Listings to Rafał Hreczaniuk, a workaholic chef with outrageous talent. His zander fillet thrills with every bite. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44A, dyletanci.pl

Grand Kredens This mighty veteran continues to draw a steady custom on account of a wide-reaching menu that aims to keep everyone happy – and it usually does.

The design is surreal to say the least, and is laid out in such a way as to always guarantee a lively atmosphere. (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 111, tel. 22 629 8008, kredens.com.pl Grunt i Woda An appealing wood-framed construction with hard hitting cocktails and a thoughtful menu that utilizes ingredients grown in their own garden. Watch out for their ‘jazz brunches’ each Sunday. Bulwar Flotylli Wiślanej Hala Koszyki Integrating old with new, this huge project brings together some 18 food outlets inside a busy interior that’s all iron girders and industrial lighting. While there’s a feeling that there should have been a bigger focus on artisan, independent traders, that’s done nothing to dent Koszyki’s astonishing popularity. Units of note include the Gringo Salsownia, Port Royal Fish & Oyster Bar, and the Sobramesa Tapas Bar. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63, koszyki.com InFormal Kitchen There’s plenty of fireworks over the course of a vibrant menu that sources its produce from regional eco farms: meat from within a 26-kilometer radius of Warsaw, dairy produce from Mazury and fish from Pomerania. The rump of lamb is a class act, and bettered only by the pear and thyme tart for dessert. (D3) Pl. Małachowskiego 2 (enter from Traugutta), tel. 531 918 534, informalkitchen.pl Joseph’s Bistro & Wine Spacious and smooth on the eye, Joseph’s has the feel of a place where good things happen: and indeed they do. For starters there’s a visually enticing tuna tartar,

not to mention gherkin with rhubarb and cheese. It’s frankly remarkable with all sorts of tastes popping out thanks to a marinade that involves passionfruit, chili, vinegar and maple syrup. As a main, don’t miss the duck breast: a simple thing of beauty that’s given extra vigor with a star anise demi-glace. (B1) ul. Inflancka 4, josephs.pl Kieliszki Na Hożej The only Polish graduate of the Alain Ducasse academy in Paris, Dawid Balana has combined everything he’s learned along the way to fashion a menu that’s high on local produce but cooked with a classic French twist. The tastes are precise and well-balanced, but also varied enough to give a seemingly simple dishes several interesting sub-plots. From the outside, it looks like something straight from the 6th arrondissement. Through the door, and diners are met head-on by a seductive space that’s dark, intimate and full of gleaming glass: beautiful. (D5) ul.

Hoża 41, kieliszkinahozej.pl Kuchnia Otwarta Kuchnia Otwarta have created a swell of excitement that’s rippled way beyond Wilanów. Why? Plotted out by Michał Molenda, the menu is a sincere work based around regional, seasonal produce: nothing contrived, nothing forced, it’s a card that roots out the very best that Poland has to offer. ul. Klimczaka 1 (Royal Wilanów), kuchniaotwarta.pl La Brasserie Modern The interior of Didier Gomez whispers intimacy, yet it also embraces notions of space and light. The casual elegance that emanates from the design is accented by warm colors, low banquettes and glinting mirrors. The menu fits seamlessly with the surrounds: a fresh, modern look at French cuisine, but one that values clarity and simplicity. (D3) ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8332, sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com

Loft Color, that’s what Loft has. It’s everywhere – from the design, which is all bubble shaped lights and splashy, bright cushions, to the drinks: extravagant cocktails that possibly glow warsawinsider.pl

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Restaurant Listings Original Indian Cuisine

in the dark. The menu is full of playful experimentation, something reflected by a seasonal menu that has, in the past, presented such choices as chicken with strawberries. (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 668 016 964, restauracjaloft.pl MOD BEST WAWA 2016 “Casual Dining” Chef Trisno’s menu sets his French culinary training against his Singaporean upbringing. The outcome is a card (actually, a printed sheet of paper) that makes for dangerously enjoyable reading: duck hearts with beetroot / soy emulsion and braised red cabbage; duck confit with pok choy, soy / red wine sauce and spicy cranberry chutney. Moderate prices and funky décor (a retro mirrored wall, upside down plants hanging from the ceiling) give it an ad hoc edge and plenty of character. Note: by day its Warsaw’s top donut store, so visit at night for their proper menu. (D6) ul. Oleandrów 8, fb.com/ MODOleandrow8 Mokotowska 69 Set inside a rotunda at the tail end of the street, it’s a place that exudes elegance and class. Most of all, however, it’s a restaurant to be enjoyed. Brought to you by the same team credited for Merliniego 5, Mokotowska’s appreciation of steak has been lifted from their elder sister. Yet the virtues of this restaurant extend beyond steak alone: the Insider enjoyed a volley of greats – creamy breaded calf brains, sophisticated smoked eel, and Mazurian crayfish served in a deep, joyous sauce of rowan berry and brandy. (E5) ul.

Mokotowska 69, mokotowska69.com Momu.Gastrobar Back open after a revamp and a rethink, the biggest talking point has been the star addition of a wood smoker imported from the States. Allegedly the only one of its kind in Poland, the menu has been adjusted accordingly to play to this strength – with this in mind, the ribs are a must-have. (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 11, tel. 506 100 001, momu.pl

club

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Plato Conceived as a ‘smart casual’ restaurant, it’s a reasonably compact space with a modern style and incandescent bulbs hanging from a complex cat’s cradle of interweaving wires: classy but nothing

too flashy or flamboyant. Then there’s the menu, a strange work that sees Spanish influences brushing shoulders next to Polish and Asian. It sounds silly and preposterous but my God it works. December saw us wowed by beef tartar cut from Polish Hereford, an aromatic oriental broth, and a refined halibut encircled with sage pesto, redcurrants and fresh almonds. Stunning. ul. Klimczaka 1 (Royal Wilanow), restauracjaplato.pl Północ Poludnie Besides the food being colorful and inventive there is a restaurant concept that works here. It has a visible kitchen, which at times is a little noisy, a beautifully designed interior, and a busy bar side scene. The lamb comes highly recommended. (E7) ul. Bagatela 10, pn-pd.pl Prosta Historia Informal-looking with its simple white finishes and stripped wooden floors, Prosta fills a ‘catch-all’ role of cafe/ restaurant/bar/meeting point. And it does all the aforementioned very well indeed, thanks to a skilled chef, a good drinks offer and a continental atmosphere that’s all life and good humor.

(H4) ul. Francuska 24, prostahistoria.com Rozbrat 20 BEST WAWA 2016 “Upscale Casual” Much noise has been made about Rozbrat 20’s bread and wine selection, but their food is also something of a standout. Our trip in December meant twirls of herring pickled in vinegar and herbs and surrounded by a whorl of pond green colors; expertly assembled and boisterously flavored Hungarian foie gras; and a roll of gelatinous pork with ribbons of crispy salsify and a reassuring, fleshy taste. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 20, rozbrat20. com.pl Secado Casual, intimate interiors complement a menu that’s expanded from its original Latin leanings. Everything we’ve tried here has been close to culinary gold, and that includes the surf & turf, tortillas and the roast beef. (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 66, tel. 608 707 799, secado.com.pl Soul Kitchen Bistro If the previous venue was all slanted towards low-pitched business conversa-

Restaurant Listings tion then the new one is positively festive in comparison: scuffed brickwork, tall bar stools, a long communal table, etc.

The seasonal menu is a pick-and-mix of small-to-medium plates, including a halibut gravlax, whose delicate taste juxtaposes well against the rougher, earthier kick of the radish, and crayfish presented in a bird’s nest of green beans, fennel and leek. For mains, look for the braised beef. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 18A, soulkitchen.pl Stixx It’s easy to distrust a menu with such international diversity, but the kitchen crew really make it come together: the Indian section is particularly outstanding. Then there’s the design, a balance between slick corporate and sexy cosmopolitan: with the Warsaw Spire towering above it outside, it’s the kind of address to take any new arrival who still thinks of Poland as being backward. (A4) Pl. Europejski 4A, tel. 22 340 4040, stixx.pl

Strefa There’s a swan white elegance here, with lots of pristine colors and smart, smooth-talking service. What a refreshing change. Chef Jarosław Walczyk favors sous-vide techniques, and his is a magic, masterful hand – his duck is flawless, and the homemade ice cream with seasonal fruits is quite a follow-up. (C3) ul. Próżna 9, tel. 22 255 0850, restauracjastrefa.pl Tusz Tusz Bistro Hidden round the back of Pl. Bankowy’s epic blue tower, Tusz Tusz is the kind of place Warsaw needs more of: a catch-all solution with a local menu that keeps office workers in mind – it’s fast, available from dawn but doesn’t cut corners when it comes to basic standards. Full review coming soon. (C2) Pl. Bankowy 2

Warbuger Na Żelazna The easiest mistake one can make is to think this is a burger joint – in part it is, but the whole truth is that it’s so much more. A complete upgrade from their original joint in Mokotów, the real attraction is an enticing page of more-ish, meaty mains: oxtail, beef cheeks and other snips of bits and offal. (B4) ul. Żelazna 58/62

Warszawski Sznyt Warsaw’s historic center is rightly glorified for many reasons – its restaurants, however, are not one of them. In fact, there’s probably nowhere in the city with a higher concentration of sub-par efforts. Aiming to redress the balance are Sznyt, an ambitious venue with swank interiors overlooking the Royal Castle, and a kitchen staff headhunted from blue

La Brasserie Moderne is a modern interpretation of traditional brasserie designed to bring the taste of the French art de vivre right to your table. Discover a seasonal menu skillfully composed by chef Maciej Majewski by combining the finest culinary traditions of France with local flavors and a modern twist.

Our open kitchen will complement your dining experience by creating a sense of participation in a live culinary show.

La Brasserie Moderne, visit us Mon.-Sat. noon-midnight | Królewska St 11 | 00-065 Warsaw | Tel. +48 22 657 83 82 | Email: brasserie.moderne@sofitel.com | www.facebook.com/brasserie.moderne

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Restaurant Listings ribbon venues such as Salto and Amaro.

Set over two floors (one focused on Polish cuisine, the other on ‘international’), the pride of the house is afforded to the wood-fired grill. (D2) ul. Senatorska 2, warszawskisznyt.pl

italian Ave Pizza The argument over who serves Warsaw’s best pizza goes right to the wire, but there’s no doubting that Ave Pizza are up there on the leaderboard. Set across a sparse, metropolitan area, this fashionable L-shaped joint comes endorsed by the capital’s notoriously picky Italian community. Order the pillowy calzone and you’ll soon learn why. (E3) ul. Topiel 12, tel.

22 828 8507, avepizza.pl The Blueberry’s Strange times for Pl. Zbawiciela: it’s not

long back people were burning down the rainbow installation (RIP!), calling it Pl. Hipstera and writing about it in publications such as The New York Times.

Though it might have stagnated a little since that heyday hopes are again high for the future, and The Blueberry’s is one reason. Specializing in the food of Piedmont, find an onus placed on simple, home-style tastes. (D6) Pl. Zbawiciela, fb.com/theblueberrys Casa Ristoranti Pleasingly relaxed and informal, Casa Ristoranti has wooed the center with its commitment to Italian ingredients, not to mention its accurate presentation of the classic majors. ul. Pereca 1, casaristoranti.pl DaCurio Although it looks small and humble DaCurio have made quick work of amassing an enthusiastic following. Credit for that rests with the Roman-style pizza that comes sold by the slice. Made using

Italian oils and flour, the pizzas here deserve the adulation they’ve received.

(E3) ul. Tamka 45A Delizia The sheer proliferation of Italian restaurants lends an element of chance to dining out: cut through the noise by visiting Delizia, a place that’s consistently topped polls ever since it launched in 2010. Lorenzo’s cooking is upscale Italian with a contemporary twist, and comes presented by Luca, an ebullient ball of energy who patrols the floor with sparkling good humor. In the hands of these two an unforgettable night comes guaranteed. Top quality imported products, a dimly-lit romantic atmosphere, a tasteful design and faultless food: no wonder so many rate this as their favorite Italian. (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 22 622 6665, delizia.com.pl Dziurka od Klucza An inviting Italian restaurant in which

NEW MENU

Modern take on Italian cuisine tel.: +48 22 829 69 69 ul. Senatorska 13/15, Warsaw/Old Town restauracja@focaccia.pl, fb.com/restauracjafocaccia www.focaccia.pl

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Restaurant Listings curious doors sit embedded into the walls, as if waiting to be opened by the keys that hang on the tree outside. Striking a lavender look, the magic of this restaurant is affirmed by its wonderful pasta and intimate style. (E3) ul. Radna 13, tel. 500 150 494, dziurkaodklucza.com.pl Enoteka This L-shaped space feels completely correct: tall ceilings, big windows, marble floors and an overwhelming sense of light and sun. The mood is good. Food matches the serious wine list and includes a rich topinmabur soup, creamy Agnolloti pasta and a hearty steak. These are not attempts at a kitchen revolution, rather a concentrated focus on a menu that makes sense. (C1) Rynek Nowego Miasta 13/15, enotekapolska.pl Focaccia The Insider’s visit went something like this: wrist-thick octopus with an arc of yellow mousse, conversation stopping beef tenderloin alongside a glistening pool of madeira sauce and then an orange ice cream with caramel and ginger that soon merged into a big gooey brew of chocolatey mess. The only surprise is there’s no Italian in the kitchen – it appears they don’t need one. This is seriously talented cooking inside an interior that fresh and light and reflective of the

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food. (D2) ul. Senatorska 13/15, tel. 22 829 6969, focaccia.pl Mąka i Woda Purists applaud an approach that uses a custom-made oven from Naples and imported ingredients such as 00 Caputo flour and DOP certified San Marzano tomatoes. Scrupulously authentic, it’s no wonder that it’s packed to the gunnels every night of the week – even their Facebook page warns of 20-minute waiting times for a table alone. Learning this, some storm off in a huff – they need their heads checked, for this is Warsaw’s best pizza. (D4) ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 91 87 Si From the makers of Secado comes a new downtown venture: Si, a fun Italian stop with homemade pasta, an array of pizza and a hefty choice of cocktails. Geared towards good times, a list of rotating daily offers has done a fair job of drumming up trade. (C3) ul. Marszałkowska 115

japanese & sushi Benihana Fire, flash, show and sizzle: the Benihana experience merges cooking with cabaret with diners sat ringside around teppanyaki grills. These cooking stations are the stage

for the Benihana crew to demonstrate their riveting range of nifty knifework and daredevil antics. Outside of the realm of the grill, the sushi is also strikes the right spot. (C4) ul. Twarda 2/4 Sakana Sushi Bar Sushi as a fashion statement? That’s what you find in Sakana, a place where the glam and the great of Warsaw peacock around with feathers on display. Ignoring the general vanity and unpleasantness, one can’t help but applaud the sushi – if there was one winner in the sushi wars of the noughties, then Sakana was it. ul. Burakowska 5/7 tel. 22 636 0505, ul. Moliera 4/6, tel. 22 826 5958, & ul. Wąwozowa 6, lok.10B, tel. 22 498 8899, sakana.pl Shoku In local terms, this has to be amongst the most blogged about restaurants of the year thus far. While it actually opened several months back, it’s only now that the place is gathering steam and getting recognized thanks to word-of-mouth.

In truth, it’s not hard to see what the fuss is about: occupying a cool, almost industrial-looking spot not far from the Rising Museum, Shoku offers an excellent menu of Asian-style tapas and small plates inside a buzzy background that’s never short of custom. The tuna steak is recommended. (A4) ul. Karolkowa 30, shoku.pl

Restaurant Listings Uki Uki How much do the locals appreciate Warsaw’s original udon bar? Enough to queue outside the door? That’s right. Dining is a close quarters experience here, but is done so without complaint: that electric pasta maker turns out noodles of such chewy goodness that everyone leaves beaming. (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, tel. 728 827 705, ukiuki.pl Wabu Sushi becomes a heaven’s gate spiritual experience in Wabu with the evening passing in a blur of beautiful compositions, of silky slithers of fish crowned with expert pinches of this, and little brush strokes of that. That’s all elevated even further by deliciously upscale interiors befitting of the Spire location. (A4) Pl. Europejski 2 (Warsaw Spire), wabu.pl

jewish Florentin A quite beautiful, pale-colored dining room that boldly presents the cuisine of modern day Israel. High on North African twists and turns, there’s a creativity at work here that marks Florentin out as one of the most exciting openings in recent times: if in doubt, the veal with harissa, grilled pepper and pear puree is a winning order that deserves full attention. Onto dessert, and make space for the basil panna cotta served with ‘tomato jam’. (E4) ul. Smolna 40, fb.com/FlorentinWarszawa Tel Aviv Although this multicultural melting pot is best-known for its Israeli street food, it’s the shift towards ‘vegan fine dining’ that has really caught the attention. (D5) ul.

Poznanska 11, restauracjatelaviv.pl

korean Sora Buoyed by a surge in Korean expat numbers, Korena cuisine found itself cresting in 2016. Yet despite the increasingly competitive market, Sora is commonly accepted as the ruler of the roost. The tabletop BBQ sets are an essential order and ideal for the shared

LEVEL 1 POLISH AND BUSINESS CUISINE

bonding experience. It’s even better with copious quantities of Makkoli wine. (A4) ul.

Wronia 45

latin & spanish Casa Pablo “We give Spanish food a new twist,” declares chef Gonzalo de Salas, which explains why, in between pungent cheeses and acorn-fed Bellota ham, we find ourselves demolishing a variety of dishes that buck all notions of tradition: as a starter the beetroot-marinated salmon served with wasabi emulsion is a fine example of this. With de Salas performing balletic tricks in the kitchen, Casa Pablo presents a masterful menu that ripples with adventure. (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5A, tel.

22 324 5781, casapablo.pl Mojo Picon Smart and atmospheric yet still pleasingly casual, the early feedback has been healthy. Specializing in Hispanic cuisine, especially that of the Canary Islands, specific strengths include a broad selection of Spanish wines, artfully composed tapas and a paella for the purists. A smaller operation the size of a mouse hole operates on Poznanska. ul. Prosta 53, mojopicon.pl Tapas Gastrobar The popular practice is to order so many plates and bottles that the table becomes a Magic Eye of kaleidoscope patterns.

A great place for sharing and general interaction, the ambiance and quality belies the corporate anonymity of the location. Though the gazapcho is first class it’s bettered by the patatas bravos: fried potatoes in a ballsy tomato sauce.

(A4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 251 1310, tapasbar.pl

2 SENATORSKA STREET, WARSAW + 48 22 829 20 50 or + 48 609 608 010 WWW.WARSZAWSKISZNYT.PL FACEBOOK.COM/ WARSZAWSKISZNYTRESTAURANT INSTAGRAM.COM/ WARSZAWSKI_SZNYT

mexican Dos Tacos Who doesn’t like asking for something that’s ‘under the counter’. In the case of Dos Tacos, doing so means inquiring about their range of ‘salsa clandestinas’: extra hot sauces designed for reckless thrill-seekers. But the true secret weapon

LEVEL 0 MODERN STEAKHOUSE

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Restaurant Listings at Dos Tacos is Isabel Balderas, a Mexican chef that has mastered the bright, bold tastes of her native country. This cuisine has enjoyed a breakout year in Warsaw, but while the millennials clamor over new food trucks and funky little start-ups, Dos Tacos is a timely reminder that the old guard sometimes know best. (D4) ul.

Jasna 22, tel. 22 243 4618, dostacos.pl

a cheerful-looking spot on the fringe of New Town. Ringing with colorful patterns and mosaics, the effect – like the food itself – is simple but reassuringly lively.

On the Insider’s visit, that meant a hefty chicken burrito given a viper’s bite thanks to a chili habanero salsa – but inconsistencies are plentiful and need to be resolved – fast! (C1) ul. Długa 6, elbarrio.pl

El Barrio Famed for his long association with El Popo, chef Angel Aceves Vivanco has teamed up with Lourdes Estrada to create

Gringo Bar A Mexican wave is upon us, and high time too. After years of suffering frozen ingredients, timid flavors and daft

Mariachi music to persuade us it’s all authentic, a raft of new cut-price eateries are showing the rest how it’s done.

Cooked and folded by fist bumping lads in back-to-front caps and baggy t-shirts, the food at Gringo is fiery, fresh and full of zing. There are detractors who claim this is a Polonized version of this cuisine, but the informal Gringo remains one of the market leaders. (E9) ul. Odolańska 15, tel. 22 848 9523, gringobar.pl La Sirena Creamy guacamole the color of Kermit; cocktails that are both vicious and delicious; and drunken beans full of heart and vim. But La Sirena gets even better, particularly with the short ribs burrito and a readjusted ‘almost death salsa’ that’s learned to say POW. Add to this a machete-laden interior that draws inspiration from the ultra-violent films of Danny Trejo, and you understand why this tiny, backstreet cantina has become the talk of the town. At no point in its history has Warsaw enjoyed better Mexican food. (D5) ul. Piękna 54 Maria Kolendra The most likable trend of the past year?

That’ll be Warsaw’s growing mania for Mexican food. Set in a small ‘pavilion’ building out in the Służew boonies, such is the authenticity that its loyal band of devotees see nothing wrong in traipsing across the city for a taste of Luis and Armando’s tacos and burritos. ul.

Puławska 246 Spoco Loco It begins with a bead of sweat. Then a couple of tears. Then the real pain starts and doesn’t retract until you’ve rolled on the floor and died for twenty minutes. Spoco Loco’s No. 7 sauce is no laughing matter, and should be treated with respect. But this tiny eatery (it’s essentially one bench) is not founded on gimmicks. The burritos and quesadillas are decent in the comfort food kind of way, and ably supported by a choice of milder sauces that don’t require Red Cross treatment. (H4) ul. Francuska 8, spocoloco.pl Urban Burritos It’s here, in this unassuming subterranean world, that people gather for what is being hyped as Warsaw’s top burrito.

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Restaurant Listings Offering fillings of pork, beef, chicken and Portobello mushroom, wraps come expertly constructed and served with salsas that sing with gusto. Set within shouting distance of the US Embassy, peak times see Urban Burritos fill to the seams with America’s finest. (D6) ul.

Piękna 22, urbanburritos.pl

middle eastern Le Cedre With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops.

(E1) Al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166, lecedre.pl

Le Cedre 84 Le Cedre just keep on getting it right.

Authenticity is key in this chainlette (well, there’s another across the river), as you’ll discover when talking to Tony, the Lebanese owner. To see the diversity of this cuisine, order the balbaak (six cold starters) or the byblos (six hot). And food aside, it’s the atmosphere that carries them that extra yard: the whole philosophy of this cuisine is to share and share alike, making it a uniquely engaging experience when dining with friends. (B3) Al. Solidarności 84, tel. 22 618 8999, lecedre.pl Le Cedre Lounge Furnished in voluptuous Middle Eastern style, the latest subsidiary of the Le Cedre empire bursts with fancy sheesha pipes, extravagant rugs and shimmery satin drapes. It’s a look that’s fun, familiar, intimate and warm. Less encyclopedic

than that of its two sister ventures, Le Cedre Lounge has a slimmer menu that introduces several new tastes to fans of Lebanese cuisine. Helplessly more-ish, it’s food that’s in line with the vibey atmosphere and casual air. (C4) ul.

Grzybowska 5A, lecedre.pl Shuk Located behind Hala Banacha in this gradually blooming district of Warsaw, SHUK’s certainly worth the tram ride if you’re not a native Ochotian. An offshoot of the acclaimed Mezze, highlights on our visit included a well-seasoned Arabic soup with lentils and spinach followed by a skillet of fried oyster mushrooms cooked with onions and served alongside harissa topped with rose petals. You’re looking at quite a special place that realigns your mojo on an ashen Warsaw day. ul. Grójecka 127 Sokotra Casting a warm, steamy glow over this

The recently opened restaurant and bar Mokotowska 69 is a perfect place for those who enjoy refined food and excellent wine. The restaurant offers classic Polish dishes with a modern twist, delicious steaks and a wide range of wine from all over the world. Mokotowska 69 was designed for those who enjoy Polish cuisine and those who would like to try classic Polish dishes with a modern twist, such as Mazurian crayfish in rowan brandy cream sauce, roasted catfish with pearl barley and beets or roasted duck with pears and blackcurrant. The restaurant also specialises in steaks made from American Black Angus (certified prime grade by the USDA), Scottish Aberdeen Angus and the highest quality Japanese Tajima-gyu cattle, “Kobe-style”: class 5, marbling 9+.

ul. Mokotowska 69, tel. (+48 22) 628 73 84 / (+48 22) 627 20 33, www.mokotowska69.pl

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Restaurant Listings

polish

Bazyliszek Some parts of Bazyliszek hark to its years as a stately, stuffy restaurant. Now though it’s more earthy, with Jurassic portions of meaty, lardy food best consumed with one-liter beers. The Rynek location and festive atmosphere account for its popularity more than anything that comes from the kitchen. (D1) Rynek Starego Miasto 1/3, tel. 22 831 1841, bazyliszek. waw.pl

Ale Gloria Who said romance was dead? Here wedding white colors are fused with a strawberry motif inside this gourmet fave.

Keeping patrons returning are aromatic dishes with a contemporary twist – try the duck in rose sauce. (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7080, alegloria.pl

Belvedere Łazienki Królewskie Set in an imperial age glass orangery, it’s festooned with intricate latticework and botanical exotica. The updated interiors are the work of acclaimed set designer Boris Kudlicka, and lend a fresh, contemporary tone that goes hand in hand with the menu. But behind the gels and emulsions and pretty little swirls, this is cooking of substantial depth; it’s cooking that takes you to the very soul of Polish nature. ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. 22 558 6701, belvedere.com.pl

corner of Wilcza, Sokotra reveals itself as a well-designed nook with a rough, urban edge: telegraph poles, bare bulbs and exposed lumps of concrete. Yemeni dishes are available though it’s the Indian food that shines – the Madras is intense, pungent and suitably fiery. (D5) ul. Wilcza 27, tel. 22 270 2766, sokotra.pl

Restaurant & Pastry Shop Warsaw, Żurawia 47/49, open: 7.00 - 22.00 reservations: tel. +48 (22) 621 82 68 Pastry Shop Warsaw, Pl. Grzybowski 2, open: 9.00 - 20.00 Warsaw, Felińskiego 52, open: 9.00 - 20.00

smakiwarszawy.pl

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Bez Gwiazdek Hide the white tablecloth! One of the more discernible trends of 2016 saw chefs attempt to replicate fine dining standards but in casual surrounds. Few are more qualified to do so than Robert Trzópek, a man whose résumé includes experience gained in Noma and El Bulli. Seeking to ‘reinterpret forgotten Polish cuisine’, his tasting menu at Bez Gwiazdek leaves no doubt why local food fans repeat his name with reverence and awe. For this restaurant, 2017 promises to get even bigger. (E3) ul. Wiślana 8, bezgwiazdek. com.pl Czerwony Wieprz (Red Hog) An amusing restaurant that looks back at communism through a rose-tinted lens.

Under the glowering gaze of commie tyrants, staff dressed like obedient members of the party’s Youth League deliver hefty dishes from a cheeky menu that is in itself a collector’s item. (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 22 850 3144, czerwonywieprz.pl

Restaurant Listings

Delicja Polska Looking stately (pink bows, gilt touches and immaculate linen) but never stuffy, Delicja have a modern Polish menu that includes sous-vide salmon marinated in beetroot leaves, then topped with horseradish foam and dill emulsion. Brilliant.

But then so was everything else we tried, including the exquisite seasoned roast beef. (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 64, tel. 22 826 4770, delicjapolska.pl Dom Polski Almost like it was designed for the manor born, Dom Polski has the rarefied atmosphere of a country retreat: bow-tied staff who click their heels, decorative antiques and a menu that’s a sumptuous anthology of posh Polish cooking. When you need to give visitors a sense of classic Warsaw, Dom Polski is the first out of the hat. (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 2432, restauracjadompolski.pl Dom Polski Belwederska Accessed via curling pathways and bursting shrubs this restaurant conjures images of an aristocrat’s manor. The air of privilege matches a menu that’s rich in fanciful classics such as their signature goose. Elegant and exquisite, consider it your default choice for a taste of true Poland. (F8) ul. Belwederska 18A, tel. 22 840 5060, restauracjadompolski.pl Elixir by Dom Wódki There are some who call the food here ‘deconstructed Polish’. In actuality, ‘reconstructed’ would be closer to the mark. Chef Michał Tkaczyk has taken local classics and redrafted the recipes with the swoosh of a contemporary pen.

The outcome is a pleasure from start to finish: a life affirming żurek, a tartar that could fulfill ambassadorial duties for Poland, and a handsome beef tenderloin sprinkled with crispy potato shavings.

Thoughtful pairings with lesser-known, boutique vodkas add another dimension that serves to complete this pleasing, patriotic adventure. (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl Folk Gospoda If you missed the last train to Zakopane,

then a night in Folk Gospoda is the next best thing. Kitted out like a typical tavern in the Tatras, it’s a good-humored celebration of mountain-slope traditions: heaps of meat and lard with plenty of vodka and song in between. (B3) ul. Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605, folkgospoda.pl Kafe Zielony Niedzwiedź The Green Bear has turned into the mothership for all things relating to slow food: if in doubt, check the menu, an ode to provenance that comes complete with detailed biographies of their suppliers.

Using creative techniques, this restaurant modernizes Polish food and rolls it out inside a stylish building popular with people who look like they might well be famous. (E4) ul. Smolna 4, tel. 731 996 006, kafezn.pl

STEAKHOUSE /BAR

Kieliszki na Próżnej You’ll find Kieliszki na Próżnej, the latest restaurant to mark the rehabilitation of Próżna, so named after the 1,116 wineglasses that hang tantalizingly over the bar. As an anchor feature the suspended glassware is arresting, and equaled only by a long stretch of wall art doodled by Mariusz Tarkawian. The food matches up to the interiors, with a modern Polish menu that – on our visit – involved a thick, brilliantly spreadable foie gras pate, a thick slab of brawn and a delicate piece of moist Baltic cod. It’s pure seasonal comfort. (C3) ul. Próżna 12, tel. 501 764 674, kieliszkinaproznej.pl Mała Polana Smaków BEST WAWA 2016 “Modern Polish” Put simply, it works on every level: from the service to the space – outside, a terrace featuring upcycled crates overlooking Morskie Oko, and on the inside, a cute little room with woodsy bits and big glass jars of mystery ingredients. It’s casual, but still fit for more serious roles: e.g. girlfriend night. And the food: exceptional.

Lots of seasonally changing choices that on our visit meant salmon sausage matched with beetroot and horseradish sauce along with pinches of lavender and fennel. (F9) ul. Belwederska 13/44, tel. 22 400 8048, polanasmakow.pl Opasły Tom Sneaked off a lively side street, guests duck down into a chain of two narrow-ish chambers that, whilst not exactly casual,

Nowogrodzka 47a www.beefandpepper.pl reservation: (+48) 785 025 025 Open 7 days a week Monday-Saturday: 12.00-24.00 Sunday: 12.00-23.00

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Restaurant Listings feel comfortable and familiar. Reliant on the freshest local ingredients around, this restaurant’s strategy places an onus on seasonality whilst remaining fiercely creative. (E4) ul. Foksal 17, kregliccy.pl Papu Evoking the spirit of a gentleman’s manor, Papu looks every inch the classic Polish restaurant. Reliant on regional produce from mom & pop farmsteads, chef Bartek Kędra’s menu does a gold carat job of enhancing old-fashioned recipes through the use of modern techniques. (D9) al.

Niepodległości 132/136, tel. 22 856 7788, restauracjapapu.pl Prasowy Delicate diners turn their back on milk bars, yet this canteen-style phenomenon, with its history rooted in communism, has enjoyed a remarkable renaissance and a freshly found popularity with a new generation. Sure, the food is an acquired taste and best described using words like

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‘basic’, ‘bland’ and ‘honest’, but Prasowy gets our vote for a cool design that’s seen the 1954 interiors sensitively updated.

(E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16

Restauracja Pod Gigantami All pomp and splendor, huge portraits of monarchs in ermine stare down from the walls; pristine parquet floors gently creak underfoot; from another chamber, the sound of clinking glasses whispers through the air. Yet as much as the interior makes an impact it fails to steal the show. That belongs to Paweł Zieliński, a chef whose biography includes a stint at the Michelin starred L’Ecrivain in Dublin. Now back in Poland, his menu is a patriotic proclamation of all that is good.

It’s here the Insider enjoyed its favorite żurek of 2016. (E5) Al. Ujadowskie 24, tel.

22 629 2312, podgigantami.pl

Restauracja Polska “Różana” The rarified atmosphere of Różana is a pleasure indeed. Close to the frontline of Mokotów / Śródmieście, you’d never guess the proximity of the center. Seated in their garden, one feels removed from the city – a fountain burbles quietly in the background, starlings hop around the trees. From the inside, one hears the distant tinkle of the house pianist. Just being here is a thrill in itself, and the food is a Polish dining extravaganza served from the top table: farmhouse duck, saddle of venison, etc. (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 22 848 1225, restauracjarozana.com.pl Słoik Jarheads will love Słoik, a place lined with glass jars brimming with colorful ingredients and bright preserves. Find natural Polish produce and traditional-sounding dishes treated with a careful and contemporary hand. The approach pits modernist against classic, and the winner is, well, you. This is traditional Polish food updated

Restaurant Listings for the discerning, latter day palate – and it’s really quite something. (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 600 396 688 Solec 44 Solec 44 does nothing if not challenge gastronomic norms. Found on the upper floor of a shabby Communist pavilion, the versatility of this place makes it great to hang out with friends over beer and board games: it’s not often you find faces from the TV in the same room as student

types, but that’s the kind of inclusive atmosphere here. The biggest draw though is the chef, Aleksander Baron.

Combing the farms and forests of Poland for ingredients, his obsession with old baroque recipes, nose-to-tail cooking and forgotten fermentation processes is inspiring to all who adore cooking. (F4) ul.

Solec 44, tel. 798 363 996, solec.waw.pl Stary Dom A classic restaurant in style and history:

back in the day it was a favorite haunt of jockeys and race goers from the horse track nearby. Pre-war recipes form the basis of the menu, with the team using seasonal produce and the latest technology to bring out its best. ul. Puławska 104/106, tel. 22 646 4208, restauracjastarydom.pl U Fukiera New arrivals looking to get a grasp of local cuisine have many options in varying

w

The award-winning Enoteka Polska welcomes guests to the heart of Warsaw’s historic New Town. A perfect combo of restaurant, wine bar and wine store, aside from offering excellent Italian cuisine, we are a renowned importer with a portfolio of prestigious wine labels from across Europe. Our direct import policy allows guests to enjoy outstanding value for money.

Rynek Nowego Miasta 13/15, enotekapolska.pl tel. 882 048 012

PRESENTING THE MOST BEAUTIFUL RESTAURANT IN POLAND

Al. Ujazdowskie 24, tel. 22 629 2312, www.podgigantami.pl

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Restaurant Listings price brackets. U Fukiera is definitely in the big spend category, but visitors come away with a common sense of wonderment. That’s largely due to enchanting interiors that have guests exploring twinkling chambers that unravel like a fairytale. Set in a 500 year old townhouse, the beautiful backdrop is accompanied by a grand menu of duck, venison, veal and lamb. (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 27 (Old Town Market Square), tel. 22 831 1013, ufukiera.pl

Zapiecek Seven Warsaw locales, with our favorite found in the vaulted passages of Świętojańska. The menu is highly traditional, with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’. It’s for the pierogi though for which they’re famous; find approx. fifty types delivered by servers dressed like

saucy country maids. Locations inc. ul. Nowy Świat 64, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska 13, tel.

22 635 61 09, & ul. Wańkowicza 1, open 11:00-22:00, CH Arkadia, zapiecek.eu Warszawski Sen By Mateusz Gessler A quite stunning restaurant dominated by dark geometric patterns and the installations and ideas of guerilla artist Tomasz Górnicki. Once you’ve caught your breath and snapped off a few pics for your Instagram, settle in for a menu that gives Polish ingredients a highly contemporary treatment. If you thought Hala Koszyki was buzzing, then this edgy space is perhaps its biggest buzz of all. ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki) Zielnik A quiet Mokotów side street is the setting for this little secret. In it, flowers, lots of them, and a warming wood interior just right for winter. In summer, head instead to their glorious garden across the street

in the park: adding a sophisticated twist to the holy grill, the skewered lamb is to die for. (D10) ul. Odyńca 15, tel. 22 844 3500, restauracjazielnik.pl

seafood Lokal na Rybę Seafood doesn’t play a particularly distinguished role in Warsaw’s culinary history, so the opening of a good fish restaurant tends to get the locals talking.

But Lokal isn’t just good, it goes several steps beyond. Open just three days a week (Thu-Sat, evenings only), the rotating menu presents a handful of daily choices against a simple, no pretense interior that’s often packed solid – reservations come recommended, as do the mussel dishes. (D9) ul. Kwiatowa 1/3/4 U Rysia Devoid of frills bar a glowing neon sign

AUTHENTIC POLISH CUISINE

Krakowskie Przedmieście 64 tel. +48 22 826 4770 email. info@delicjapolska.pl www.delicjapolska.pl

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Restaurant Listings and a brooding mural of Jesus, it looks like a Polish fish restaurant should – basic but with an undercurrent of bustle that keeps the mood bright. It tastes like the real thing as well. Sourcing their catch from the freshwater lakes of northern Poland, the offer is divided into fish that have been smoked, steamed, fried or baked. Check out the perch ‘chips’ fried in batter. (C4) ul. Marszałkowska 140 (enter from ul. Rysia), urysia.com.pl

specialty food shops Bazar Olkuska Once a sad little side street, Olkuska has evolved to become just about the worst kept secret in Warsaw. Home to the city’s top eco-market, trips here end with shopping bags filled with French cheeses, Italian hams, Hungarian sausages and fresh fruit and veg. (E10) ul. Olkuska 12 Befsztyk The Prokopowicz family has come a long way since launching Befsztyk in 1994.

Top restaurants, celebs and ex-pats are listed as clients, and all agree that this operation is indisputably ‘top of the chops’. Find steaks seasoned for three weeks, gluten-free smoked meats, Merino lamb, BBQ kits and so much more. Home delivery, internet ordering and Englishspeaking staff round out this legend. many locations, befsztyk.pl

steak houses

Beef n’ Pepper A social space that encourages friends to gather and make merry over big meaty courses. Served on heavy tree stump plates, steaks here use Polish Angus aged for a 28-day period. If you’re into the concept of sharing with your fellow man, then the Beef n’Pepper plate offers a pile of everything: wings, ribs, steak.

(C5) ul. Nowogrodzka 47A, tel. 785 025 025, beefandpepper.pl Butchery & Wine The Sarf London-born Bertha oven has revolutionized the way steak is cooked, retaining moisture in a way no-one thought possible. Expect robust pieces of animal full of big, brawny tastes, but there’s so much more than just meat: starters involve a sea bass ceviche that pings with citrusy flavor not to mention more-ish pork crackling that pop like fire bangers in the mouth. A place of energy and ambition, it’s a great mix of both new and classic. Bookings advised. (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 502 3118, butcheryandwine.pl

Bio Bazar Fruit and veg in the first warehouse, some of it imported from as far as Argentina. In the second warehouse, find organic cheese varieties from sheep and goats, as well as import brands from Italy, France and the Netherlands. (B4) ul. Żelazna 51/53, tel. 22 318 8855

Ed Red Warszawa can tell they’re serious about their meat just by looking at the starters: big, juicy marrow bones, mountain oysters, blood sausage and calf’s brain. The steaks are the calling card though, and here you’ll find them dry aged and consumed with the aid of hunting knives. The desserts seem a lumpy afterthought, but they get enough right elsewhere (even decent craft beer at the bar) to keep that little more than a mild annoyance. Pl. Mirowski 1

Forteca Kregliccy Spot the stars of Warsaw’s restaurant scene perusing the stalls at this weekly farmers’ market. Held each Wednesday, look for Pan Ziółko, Poland’s first celebrity farmer (!), Portobello’s from the country’s only organic mushroom farm and the magical yogurts from Mleczna Droga Manufaktura Serów. ul. Zakroczymska 12, kregliccy.eu/forteca

Hoża Wine and steak: it sounds so simple, but Hoża have taken two simple pleasures to another level. It’s an ebullient space with service right out of charm school, and a kitchen team with a real knowledge of cows. A red-blooded affair, the menu is a steak sensation and well paired with a handpicked wine list. (D5) ul. Hoża 25A, tel.

603 778 275, hoza.warszawa.pl

‘Simplicity, elegance and atmosphere’

Cafe • Wine Bar • Restaurant • Whisky Bar • Wine Cellar ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 515 037 001 www.hoza.warszawa.pl www.facebook.com/hoza25 Open 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-21:00

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Restaurant Listings Merliniego 5 The steaks are out-of-this world, with USDA prime beef from New York’s legendary Ottomanelli & Sons and Scottish beef from London’s Smithfield Market. On our last visit we splurged on the Grade 9+ wagyu ‘kobe’ rib-eye and found ourselves eating the steak of a lifetime. (E10) ul. Merliniego 5, tel. 22 646 0810, merliniego5.pl

thai Thai Thai In terms of design it’s little short of perfect: gold vaulted interiors lend a muted glow to a largely black on black space while serene looking Buddha’s peer on the diners below. As for the food, that’s one big success story with plenty of lively flavors and dynamic colors. The Tom Yang

Kung, a deeply nourishing fish broth that awakens the senses with a sharp, spicy jolt, is a must! (C2) Pl. Teatralny 3, tel. 601 818 283, thaithai.pl Thaisty The coup here has been the recruitment of Chanunkan Duangkumma, Warsaw’s favorite Thai chef. The menu has street food inspirations and also includes several recipes passed down Duangkumma’s family line: consider the BBQ beef skewers essential. Vivid colors and a busy open kitchen lend the place a happy buzz that lasts through the day. (C2) Pl. Bankowy 4, tel. 730 000 024, thaisty.pl Why Thai A calming, almost holistic interior sets the tone for a meal dominated by the rich and aromatic tastes of Thailand. For a lively, spicy start begin with a mango and cashew salad, before moving forward and onto their celebrated curries. Imported chefs keep the flavors authentic, with

the pad Thai being something of a house favorite. (E5) ul. Wiejska 13, tel. 22 625 7698, whythai.pl

vegan & wholefood Weranda Bistro Weranda’s design is thoughtful enough to be in equilibrium with the wider Koszyki setting, yet sufficiently distinct to stand apart from the crowd. Kudos, as well, to the food. Celebrated for their salads, don’t expect to be pecking on morsels of rabbit food – instead, pepare for huge, leafy affairs assembled to look complex and intriguing. Recommended is the Croatian salad which rrives ensconced inside jumbo leaves of lettuce and cascading with mango, shrimps, goat cheese and much more besides. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki), weranda.pl

LUNCH

35 zł

ul. Plac Teatralny 3, Warsaw, tel: 601 81 82 83, info@thaithai.waw.pl, www.thaithai.pl Warszawa, Sopot, Gdańsk, Poznań

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Restaurant Słoik ul. Złota 11 (Pasaż Wiecha) kontakt@restauracjasloik.pl +48 600 396 688

RESTAURANT

www.restauracjasloik.pl facebook.com/restauracja.sloik instagram.com/sloik_zlota_11

COCKTAILBAR

DJ EVERY WEEKEND

BREAKFAST

HOMEMADE DUMPLINGS

Restaurant Si ul. Marszałkowska 115 kontakt@restauracjasi.pl +48 507 099 190

www.restauracjasi.pl facebook.com/restauracjaSi instagram.com/restauracja_Si

HOMEMADE PASTA AND ITALIAN DISHES LIVE MUSIC

EVENTS

ORGANIC & VEGAN WINES

COCKTAILS

DJ EVERY WEEKEND

COMPLIMENTARY BREAKFAST WITH EVERY HOT BEVERAGE

Restaurant Secado ul. Marszałkowska 66 kontakt@secado.com.pl +48 608 707 799

RESTAURANT

www.secado.com.pl facebook.com/SECADO instagram.com/restauracja_secado

COCKTAILBAR

BUSINESS LUNCH

CORPORATE DINNER

69 DJwarsawinsider.pl EVERY WEEKEND

Bastille Day Ball

Endorfina, 2 Foksal St.

14 th of July, From 7 pm French cuisine Wine tasting open bar DJ and dancing party

COME JOIN THE GREATEST EVENT OF THIS SUMMER!

BUY YOUR TICKET NOW AT www.ccifp.pl ORGANIZER: HONORARY PATRON:

SPONSORS: MEDIA PATRONS:

FB/DZIENFRANCUSKI GOLD SPONSOR:

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more info: STRATEGIC PARTNERS OF THE CCIFP:

DRINK! WINE OF THE TIMES

Announced by an Art Nouveau-style stained glass sign, Pani Wina is the wine bar that will make a difference. Tucked down an upcoming stretch of Wilcza, the interiors play-up to the pre-war heritage of the building with the elegantly demure decorations anchored around mustard-colored banquettes, olive green walls and immaculate parquet flooring: smart, soothing and even pretty sexy. Serving four wines on tap (and many more by the bottle), the offer extends to a thoughtful bitey menu and a smattering of complex cocktails (e.g. Negronica – served in an ice cream cone no less!). In rhythm with the times, it’s the first wine bar in Warsaw where bushy beards, tatts and hip, casual fashion are the dominant sight – now watch others follow...

PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

Pani Wina ul. Wilcza 11, fb.com/PaniWina

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Interview: Ryan Bromley (The Vodka Institute)

b

A CLEAR LESSON A car park basement proves the unlikely home of Warsaw’s vodka re-education...

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WI: In terms of profile, what are the differences between potato, rye and wheat-based vodka?

RB: Potato vodka is creamy and warm. There is a viscosity in potato vodka that you don’t find in the others, which provides a very pleasant ‘mouth feel’. The flavor profile is complex and engaging. Rye vodka, on the other hand, has a sweetness to it which balances out a touch of pleasant bitterness (such as that found in coffee). It also has a slightly spicy note, which makes it very good for mixing. Finally, wheat vodka also has a sweetness to it but that sweetness has a more caramel nature. The nose is floral and overall is much lighter on the palette than the potato or rye.

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

ehold, the best nalewki you’ll never drink: chilimint infused Imperial Warsaw Dragon’s Mouthwash. So rare is it, there’s only one bottle in the world and, wouldn’t you know it, it’s found by my bed.

Blended and bottled (and then accordingly labeled), it’s my own unique take-home keepsake from The Vodka Institute.

Set inside a modest subterranean lair accessed via an office block garage, the idea is the creation of Ryan Bromley, a global citizen with a history rooted in the F&B sector. “I wanted to present vodka in a different light,” says the former chef to the British ambassador, “to demonstrate that there’s much more to it than you’d first assume.” This is done through two-hour workshops that lay bare the quirky history of distillation not to mention the development of the craft vodka industry. This, of course, is more than just a lecture. Requiring plenty of hands-on action, demystifying the drink involves sips of this and nips of that, a tasty journey that enables groups to experience the full range of nuances that good vodka has.

With their palettes now educated, classes move to blending their own one-of-a-kind nalewki tinctures, a process that’s educational, rewarding but above all else fun. Leaving, it’s with knowledge broadened (and bags clinking)…

tato is the perfect ingredient for my mood, other times it’s wheat or rye.

This is the same as how a highland or lowland whisky will appeal to me at different times, or how a certain variety of grape is better suited to certain weather or meals.

I think that single-distilled vodka’s should be more often paired with meals: the reason that we don’t do this is simply one of cultural habit. While some dishes pair beautifully with wine, others work even better with vodka. People who are trying to better understand vodka should buy a bottle of good single ingredient, one-time distilled vodka and sip it for a while at room temperature; learn to understand what makes that ingredient special. Then try a bottle made from a different ingredient – the differences are vast.

The only way to learn about flavors and fragrances is to live with them for a while; we must spend time with them in order to understand them. This is true of vodka, food, music, art, people – all of the best things in life. We are privileged in Poland in that Chopin Vodka is making the best spirits in this category in the world, so these distillations are more accessible to us here than anywhere else. We should be proud of that, and certainly enjoy these special distillations.

WI: How would you recommend people sample vodka?

RB: The most important message that I would like to illustrate through the workshops is that craft distillations of vodka are exceptionally interesting – each varietal has vastly different flavor profiles. It’s an exciting time for craft distillations, as there is very much yet to be explored. Most people are only familiar with vodka shots, where vodka is a means to an end. I would like to show that good vodka stands up to whisky and cognac in its variety and possibilities for sipping pleasure. Like wine and whisky, there is a process of education that is required in order to understand and enjoy premium distillations of

vodka. In some cases, the quality of the distilled spirit in craft vodkas is much better than that found in many popular whiskeys.

People traditionally chill vodka in order to hide undesired flavors and tastes. If vodka is very well distilled then there is no need to chill it.

Instead, by drinking it at room or cellar temperature, the flavors that the distiller has worked to develop in the distillation become evident.

Sipping, rather than shooting, is a practice that extends across all craft spirits, as such spirits should be savored for the work that’s gone into crafting them. I’ve found that the more I live with different varietals of vodka, the more I find a mood for one or the other. Sometimes powarsawinsider.pl

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For further details and to book your own class, contact Ryan via: fb.com/TheVodkaInstitute

WI: What should people look for in a vodka?

RB: Don’t be distracted by the bottle – it’s a marketing ploy. First off, look for the ingredient that is being distilled - if it’s not listed on the bottle (preferably on the front) then they don’t truly care. If the distiller doesn’t announce the ingredient that their vodka is made from then avoid them. In the same way, good distillers are very proud of their ‘kitchens’; if the location of the distillery isn’t listed on the bottle then it’s probably made in a large, third-party factory and then dressed up in a fancy bottle. ‘Distilled’, ‘rectified’ and ‘bottled’ are very different processes – you are looking for ‘distilled in ...’. Avoid flavored vodkas – the essential oils added to them usually hide poorly distilled spirit, and are often filled with sugar.

Finally, the less number of distillations, the more you will experience the flavor of the ingredient being

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distilled. Almost all vodka is distilled at least four times, so you’ll have to hunt to find a single or twice distilled vodka. But they’re worth hunting for! Also, terroir – the contribution of sun, soil, rainfall, temperature and culture – is a concept that is applied to food and wine, but is also true of vodka. Great single distillations have completely different tasting notes from year-to-year. If a distillery lists the year that a vodka was distilled on the bottle then it’s probably making something special.

WI: What would you like to see more of in the vodka industry?

RB: More transparency and categorization. Most vodka companies are hiding where their spirit is distilled and from which ingredient it’s distilled. Most of the ‘Polish Vodkas’ are only Polish in name.

Most vodkas have flowery narratives that don’t hold up under the scrutiny that we expect within the

food industry. If we can expose the essential details of how, where and from what vodka is distilled then the quality of vodka will improve.

This requires an educated customer with higher expectations.

I’d also like to see more sensible legal definitions for vodka. At the moment, the legal definitions for vodka in both the EU and the USA require that vodka is ‘overcooked’ (four times distilled). If you have an amazing piece of fish and you cook it four times then nobody would eat it. If you have an amazing ingredient and you want to show off its special qualities in a distillation, then you have to distil it less.

The less you distil an ingredient, the better the master-distiller must be because there’s no place to hide; good vodka only has three ingredients – the ingredient being distilled, water and yeast. Categorization could allow for appellations as well various numbers of distillations.

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

People traditionally chill vodka in order to hide undesired flavors and tastes. If vodka is very well distilled then there is no need to chill it

Review

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Stixx Bar & Grill Pl. Europejska 4A, stixx.pl

IT ALL CLICKS AT STIXX No Warsaw district has

experienced quite such a profound transformation as Wola. Once a byword for urban decay, what was once a sad, dusty wasteland has blossomed to become the business district of tomorrow. Nowhere symbolizes this revolution as much as Pl. Europejski: but while the temptation is to gawk up towards the sparkling Spire, doing so ignores the changes on ground level. Filled with curving walkways, pinches of greenery and fancy water features, the city’s first postwar public access square has been a hands down hit since opening last year. But while it’s integrated seamlessly into the very fabric of the city, it’d feel incomplete without the addition of Stixx Bar & Grill.

Opened twelve months back amid much hype and fanfare, it’s a place that captures the essence of New Warsaw: smart, sophisticated but also sassy and fun. Certainly, that applies once the day reaches cocktail o’clock.

With the roof rolled back on the all-weather terrace, the feeling is of being somewhere truly international; that sensation is amplified by the cosmopolitan crowd, a diverse global menu and a style that effortlessly slips between restaurant, hangout, bar and – later on – club.

Taking their place behind the decks, resident DJs shape the mood with grooves and beats that are right for the moment, lending Stixx the kind of vibey atmosphere you seek in the summer. And this isn’t limited to the weekends alone: between Monday and Thursday swing by for Sixx at Stixx (6 p.m. to 9 p.m.) for drinks promotions and a tailored bar menu.

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Bar & Cafe Listings cafés Bułkę przez Bibułkę There’s a feminine style to this cafe, what with its cute, girly pastels, petite plant pots and woodsy finishes. But no matter what your gender or age, there’s something immediately sunny and positive about this place. Slow food sandwiches arrive on wooden boards, there’s pretty homemade desserts and a careful choice of wine: falling in love with it is easy. ul. Puławska 24 & ul. Zgoda 3, bulkeprzezbibulke.pl

Być Może It’s all about artisan bread and breakfast in the industrial looking Być Może. It’s taken the concept of Charlotte (groan, there’s even a communal table), and improved it with excellent breads and a crowd that’s a little less pleased with itself. (E7) ul. Bagatela 14, bycmoze.com.pl Cafe & Lounge Bar But Good Music First Looking back, it’s been a pretty static year where the cafe scene is concerned.

But away from the depressingly familiar sight of a new Starbucks or Costa, there have been some glimmers of hope: the impossibly long name aside, noteworthy features of this suburban star number a stunning David Bowie mural by the street artist Skuha, and an interior composed of raw concrete finishes and beautiful lighting. ul. Rydygiera 13 Café Iluzja Bathed in white, black and shades of grey, it’s an allusion to the black-andwhite films of bygone days. The interiors as a whole were designed in a 1950s vibe and the massive armchairs are by far the best part. What more do you expect from a café inside a cult socialist era cinema.

(C9) ul. Narbutta 50A, afeiluzja.pl

Charlotte Menora If the air is smug and self-satisfied, there’s a good reason for that: Charlotte have come to embody modern urban Poland: energetic, ambitious and ferociously trend conscious. And to think, some look at it as a mere bakery. Occupying a long space, the latest outpost of this café chain doesn’t overlook the area’s Jewish heritage, with the menu featuring several Jewish delicacies: the bagels are

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ok. (C4) Pl. Grzybowski 2, bistrocharlotte.pl Cophi So small you get the idea you could fit Cophi into the palm of your hand, yet no other place in Warsaw is more devoted to sourcing the best coffees in the world. (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60

Czuły Barbarzyńca na Piwnej A Parisian-style bookstore full of steps and wobbles, nooks and alcoves. All agree there’s something special here: maybe it’s the book selection – varied, esoteric and at once compelling. Or maybe it’s the atmosphere, such that browsers anchor themselves on the sofas to lose an afternoon with their nose in a novel while sipping drip coffee. (E3) ul. Piwna 20/26,

commendable as these social actions are, it’s the basics that Kos do so well.

Drenched in natural sunlight, perch on the windowsill and enjoy swift wifi, awardwinning coffee and a menu of homemade snacks and bits. (D4) ul. Chmielna 9A Krem A chic city center hangout with all the swanky, urban elegance of the 8th arrondisement. Opened by the same team behind Monsieur Leon, find their latest little baby decorated with monochrome tiles, marble-topped tables, and retro-styled mirrors. A place of hip sophistication and laid-back vibe, the menu is built around French cheeseboards, raclette and super sexy baguettes.

(D6) ul. Śniadeckich 18

czuly.pl

Kafka Café A chessboard floor and a collection of antlers on the wall characterize Kafka, a bookstore / café whose literary collection is composed of paperbacks rescued from recycling plants. Books are purchased by their weight (zł. 10 per kilo) while the menu includes pancakes, pastas and even doggy treats for your mutt. (E3) ul. Oboźna 3, kawiarnia-kafka.pl

Mała Ziemiańska Sat as it is on a street that’s become the Center of Now, Mała Ziemiańska is a pleasing throwback to slower times.

Designed to evoke the artistic spirit of the mid-19th century, this warming café is steeped in shadow and curiosities. A celebration of pre-war Warsaw, the literary pretensions of this bolthole find the walls clad with archaic books and sepia photos of the city that once was.

(D7) ul. Oleandrów 2/4, malaziemianska.pl

Kawiarnia Fabryczna Penning your memoirs? Here’s the place to do so. With its natural wood floors, muted lighting and retro style chairs, Fabryczna is just about the definitive Powiśle café. Order an Ethiopian drip coffee and get that notepad out. (E3) ul.

Fabryczna 28/30, kawiarniafabryczna.pl

KluboKawiarnia Towarzyska With an interior modeled by John Strumiłło, this 50s pavilion has an ascetic design defined by polar white interiors.

Contrast is provided downstairs, with deep magenta walls and retro armchairs.

Concerts, screenings and art happenings have made it into something of local cultural mainstay. ul. Zwycięzców 49, klubokawiarnia.net

Kos Kos is a place intent on stitching the neighborhood together. That much is made clear by a diverse events calendar that features a panoply of activities: yoga courses to weekend brunches via the occasional kid’s improvisation class. As

Matcha Tea House Renting the space once occupied by the legendary Bastylia, Matcha certainly have a big pair of boots to fill – but fill them they might. Beyond a comprehensive choice of matcha, find also an array desserts that use this green Japanese tea as their cornerstone ingredient. (D6) ul.

Mokotowska 17

Ministerstwo Kawy Sourcing their coffee from Koppi, an internationally acclaimed Swedish roasting house, the ministry takes no short cuts in their pursuit of excellence.

Utilizing Ethiopian, Costa Rican and Brazilian arabicas – some exclusive to Poland – barista Wojciech Rzytki has earned a reputation across Poland for his expert hand. Rave reviews are standard and appropriate. (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 27, ministerstwokawy.pl

MiTo Café, gallery, bookstore. Of course, we’ve seen that concept before, just not done in

Bar & Cafe Listings this style. Stark white backgrounds are offset by edgy art, lending the place a Tate Modern feel, something accentuated by the earnest fashion students who gather through the day. And there’s the toilet, a futuristic affair with piped music and a mirrored wall. (D6) ul. Waryńskiego

Stor Small but perfectly formed, Stor has all the clack and clatter of a busy local café.

Regional beers, Chemex and Aeropress coffee and gluten-free snacks and sandwiches provide plenty of reason to pop in and idle about. (E3) ul. Tamka 33

28, mito.art.pl

Niezłe Ziółko Café & Deli A shrine to pure and healthy eating, this friendly café doesn’t just brew a great coffee, but bakes its own bread and produces its own yogurt. Sit in the loft to look down on shoppers scurrying to Mokotowska, and on the way out, check out ‘Grandma’s Cupboard’ in the corner: jams, spreads and olive oils are there to buy for home. (D5) ul. Krucza 17 Odette Tearoom Taking its lead from their original dessert stop on ul. Górskiego, the sister venue peddles glorious cakes and pralines as well as a hand-picked selection of boutique teas served in a fragrant and elegant atmosphere. (C4) ul. Twarda 4, odette.pl Relaks Generally travelling by tram for a cup of Joe sounds excessive, but that’s exactly what you’ll be doing on discovering Relaks. Expertly prepared, right down to the foam art, the baristas here use the finest imported machines and work only with fair trade, ‘specialty’ coffee. If you have time, the drip coffees are more than worth the wait. The interiors supply a retro accent, and are lapped up by a very fashion aware crowd. (E9) ul. Puławska 48 Resort The main talking point here is a design that utilizes shopping trollies and street signs to serve as chairs and tables, and a pile of second-hand books to form the bar – there’s even a sofa constructed from a bathtub! Themes of recycling are taken to the limit in Resort, yet for all that it never looks junky or cheap. (C2) ul. Bielańska 1

Wrzenie Świata Those with journalistic leanings love Wrzenie Świata. It’s definitely more Macbook than Moleskine, but this bookstore/café attracts plenty of readers (and writers) to its book-lined interior.

Buzzing like a cafe should, it packs out for slideshows and seminars. (E4) ul.

Gałczyńskiego 7

bars & pubs The Alchemist The great British tradition of ‘a pint after work’ is gathering steam in PL, thanks in part to places like this. Lively and cosmopolitan, The Alchemist’s broad ranging appeal – not to mention ‘self-service beer wall’ – makes it a winning gathering point for 5 p.m. drinks. (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 3, thealchemist.pl

2Koła Sat, as it is, in the abandoned backspaces and brickyards behind Zachodnia station, 2Koła feels like Warsaw’s dirtiest little secret. Still stained and smelling of grease and oil, this former garage is piled high with dented sofas, warehouse palettes and motorcycling detritus. Yet the supremely friendly owners have turned this shadowy lair into a cult bar that’s specifically celebrated for rowdy jam sessions that cover everything from ragtime to rockabilly. ul. Tunelowa 2B

Same Fusy Suffused in a candle-lit glow, this 15th century cellar unwinds to reveal a charming brick room suspended in time. Filled with gnarled wooden oddities and tree stump tables, the sweet aroma of fragrant teas helps amplify the fairy tale mood. ul.

Bar Studio The ascetic, modern décor is intentional – both not to compete with the fine adornment of the original walls and to break through the building’s grandiose airs. It’s hard not to be overawed by the sheer gigantism of the Palace of Culture that looms above. It seamlessly slips from café during the day into its more culturally active persona in the evenings, with concerts, film screenings, plays and political discussions. (C4) Pl. Defilad 1,

Nowomiejska 10

barstudio.pl

JUICE BARS Corona Sok i Mus Inconspicuous by its size, this pit stop consists of nothing more than a counter and display fridge, yet already it’s carved a 24-carat reputation for coldpressed juices and small, jarred mousses. Made using local seasonal fruit and veg, then topped with superfoods and spices, the quality of Corona’s products have made it a standout. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki), fb.com/coronasokimus

Juice Press People Sick and tired of being sick and tired? This two-level cubbyhole offers an easy way to cleanse and detox the body: cold-pressed from organic, locally sourced fruit and veg, find an array of juices lined up on parade in the fridge, as well as a variety of coffees that make use of chemix, aeropress and drip techniques. (D4) ul. Bracka 18

Think Love Juices Nutrition nut and supermodel Anna Jagodzińska reveals the secrets of her diet in this whiteclad, summery-looking Saska café. As the name indicates, juice plays a massive part in that, with the rotating choice presenting a range of drinks that run from watermelon water all the way up to complex concoctions that ignore any shortcuts. The daily changing lunch deals are superb, but leave you in no doubt just why models are so skinny. (H4) ul.

Francuska 14, thinklove.pl

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Bar & Cafe Listings Bazar There’s Krusovice, Bernard and Staropramen on tap, and the Czech slant is lent added meat by a series of evenings held in cahoots with the Czech Cultural Centre – it’s during boozy disco nights the party spills into a shadowy cellar with light retro hints. On ground level its raw and industrial with asphalt colors and overhead pipes. You wouldn’t expect it, but the margaritas are smashing. (F1) ul.

fast becoming the latest night in the area.

Hard Rock Cafe Full Throttle cocktails, lively staff and a classic rock soundtrack: the energy of HRC is hard to find fault with. And on the rare occasion there is a lull in the night, use the opportunity to sniff around memorabilia that includes a black leather number once worn by Madonna. (C5) ul.

series of low-budget prefabricated cabins, presenting possibly the highest density of bars in the capital: in summer, it feels like one big street party. Adding to the gentle sense of confusion comes the realization that so many bars look the same – accessed through clattery, barred doors, visitors walk into what can only be described as murk. Klaps, with its dildo beer taps and phallic walls, is probably the most well-known of the lot. (D4) Enter

Jagiellońska 13

Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), hardrockcafe.pl

from ul. Nowy Świat 26

Beirut As hip as ever, Beirut has walls dusted with cult album covers, documentary posters and witty graffiti inspired by Banksy. Busy in the day, and absolutely packed at night, order unconventional beers from androgynous staff standing behind a sandbag bar decorated with silver hand grenades and a model tank.

Kraken Rum Bar Named after one of the ocean’s most feared mythical creatures (the scary squid from Pirates of the Caribbean), the woodclad Kraken features a wall of cymbals, heavy furniture and some interesting photography. While there’s some decent bottles of rum, there’s perhaps not enough to justify calling it a rum bar. The place rocks though. (D5) ul. Poznańska 12,

Państwo Miasto Is there anything better than sitting in a café, book in hand, while autumn sunshine pours through the windows? We go to Państwo to do just that, an echoey, cavernous café with a young, lively crowd that’s keen on scholastic events and political causes. Never does it feel too trendy, or too hipster – it’s a place that’s all about atmosphere and friendship. (B1)

fb.com/KrakenRumBar

ul. Andersa 29, panstwomiasto.pl

Legends Over the years Legends has earned a legendary status amongst the expats and Anglophiles. Their cause is helped by touches such as a proper darts board, Sky Sports and a traditional menu that’s as authentically English as the Downing Street cat. Presiding over it all is Graham, a seasoned expat and Everton nut. (C5) ul.

Plan B Plan B is the very essence of dive Warsaw.

Weekends pass by in a raucous blur, with the party spilling out under the colonnades outside – it helps to look like a DJ, but in truth everyone is welcome.

The hangover from this shabby, grubby bar is traumatic. (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl.

(D5) ul. Poznańska 12, beirut.com.pl

Bohemia As welcome as the global beer reformation has been, it has had its drawbacks: namely, the number of snobs and zealots found leering over pineapple stouts and impossible IPAs. Sometimes you just want a normal bar with good, clean lager. Bohemia is that place. This is a Czech bar for modern times: stylish interiors of glass and wood and a so-called ‘tank system’ that maintains the beer’s freshness. Try the ‘Mliko’, a full pint of creamy foam that can be sunk in a swig. (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, bohemiarestaurant.pl

Bollywood Lounge Bollywood in full swing is quite a sight – find banging beats and an energetic club atmosphere complimented by the pungent pleasures of their sheesha pipes.

The Sunday karaoke sessions are a hoot.

(D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, bollywoodlounge.pl

Grizzly Gin Bar More prone than ever to global trends, news that the international gin revival has hit Warsaw comes as no real bombshell.

The style in Grizzly is dark and hip with the design largely limited to moody lighting, some witty murals and a bank of outdated TV sets, while the smoking room is great for accidental meetings with curious characters. Serving their own ‘Grizzly lager’ as well as numerous cocktails based on different craft gins, it’s

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(D5) ul. Wilcza 46

Zbawiciela), planb.pl

Emilii Plater 25, legendsbar.pl

Lolek A boisterous pub with a Bavarian, bacchanal spirit and a park-centered location. Strangers squish together on shaky benches while sausages grill over an open fire inside this classic roughand-ready drinkery. Catch it at its best in summer when the outdoor seating is thronged. (A8) ul. Rokitnicka 20 (Pole Mokotowskie), lolekpub.pl Między Nami With 18 years of service under their belt you may think of Między Nami as being an antiquated has-been. Not so. Haunted by a mix of media types and local characters, this hip white piece of post-commie Warsaw has an enduring, almost timeless appeal. (D4) ul. Bracka 20, miedzynamicafe. com

Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’ Approximately twenty bars occupy a

Polonez Mysteriously closed in 2016, Polonez surprised everyone when – out of the blue – they announced they were back in the game earlier this year. Hip hip(ster) hooray! Merging raw with retro, sparse ‘neo milk bar’ chic is set against plenty of oddities, but the cool aesthetics only tell part of the story. This is a celebration of Poland, both old and new, with drinks that include obscure nalewki, craft local beers, bio beverages and regional tipples.

The masterstroke comes in making this all feel international, contemporary and creative. ul. Poznańska 24 Rozrywki After a couple of years during which it had started to feel a little like yesterday’s man, ul. Mazowiecka has had a resurgence and its sense of self restored. Playing a part in this comeback is Rozrywki, a svelte bar with a clientele that values the importance of looking its best. Beyond

Bar & Cafe Listings the immediate appeal of the beauties and wannabes, the cocktails are the chief enticement and given star treatment by a competent staff who’ve been handed a quality set of tools with which to work with. ul. Mazowiecka 6/8 Sheesha Lounge Providing you don’t mind sharing the weekend with some of the most gloriously gorgeous people in the city, then a trip to Sheesha ticks all the boxes. Presenting itself in a whirl of action, the exotic, clubby atmosphere hits fever pitch come the midnight hour. Earlier, soak up the atmosphere with a scented hookah while lounging under eastern lights. (D5) Al. Jerozolimskie 33, sheesha.pl

Stixx It takes a moment to allow the sheer magnitude of Stixx sink in. Having adjusted to the wow factor of the interior – which can best be described as cosmopolitan-industrial – most retreat to the long, all weather deck which in itself is quite something: the aesthetics are such that a cocktail party on an oligarch’s yacht comes to mind. There aren’t many better places for a drink when the roof is rolled back and the stars twinkle above. (A4) Pl. Europejski 4A, tel. 22 340 4040, stixx.pl

W Oparach Absurdu Hidden under Persian rugs, velvety drapes and reclaimed antiques, some still refer to it as The Spider Bar in reference to the giant tarantula that once hung from the wall. There’s an air of louche 60s living here, and it gets weirder when bands with names like the Bum Bum Orchestra enter to play trumpets amongst vodka-tipping guests. (F1) ul. Ząbkowska 6, oparyabsurdu.pl

Warszawa Powiśle The prime months for this former ticket booth arrive each summer when the deckchairs outside provide ample opportunity for the city’s young and fashionable to gather in an almost carnival-like atmosphere. Once seen as the hipster Center of Power, it still maintains great popularity with whiskered, tattooed sorts.

(E4) ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B

Wisła Riverfront Bars Name-checked last year by The Guardian as having one of the top ten riverside

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scenes in Europe, the Wisła has gone from zero to hero. A concerted clean-up and generous public funding have assisted the makeover, but so too have the bars and hangouts that have popped up like pimples. Home to dozens of bars and food trucks, the left side of the river is the place to be, particularly venues such as Barka, Pomost 511 and Cuda Nad Wisła.

clubs Backstage Studio Snuggled into a row of shabby cabins mostly rented to sex shops and gambling dens, Backstage feels secretive and clandestine. In spite of that, it’s earned a name among the younger generation as one of the best spaces in Warsaw for electro, minimal and techno nights (check their Facebook for upcoming events). Rather bigger than it looks, step downstairs to find chaos unfurling in a labyrinthine basement. (A3) ul. Chłodna 35/37 Bal If you thought Nowogrodzka was just about grungy craft beer dens then think again. Proving you wrong is Bal, a club that draws a pleasure-seeking party crew of waifish, wasted model-types and assorted hangers-on. Find them twerking away under one of the most interesting lighting arrangements in the city. (F5) ul.

Nowogrodzka 31, niechzyjebal.pl

Enklawa Forget Tinder, Enklawa is the best pick-up joint around – a classic kitschy, glitzy disco, it draws in huge crowds with a simple lineup of pop and dance hits. Still regarded as the best Wednesday night in Warsaw, it’s the place for singletons looking for a one-night confidence boost.

No Comment Found in one of the towers that prop up Most Poniatowskiego, a ‘sense of unknown’ manifests itself inside this weekend’s only club, a bi-level area whose small size adds to the air of mystery and exclusivity. Away from the prying eyes of Joe Public, find glittery, local celebs getting down and naughty.

(F4) Al. 3 Maja 16/18A, Most Poniatowskiego

Room 13 Connected by a series of inter-linking archways, rooms inside this dressy club throb at the weekends with a super sexy crowd letting loose under the vaulted ceilings. Now in their fifth year, it’s become a stalwart of the Mazowiecka scene. (D3) ul.

Mazowiecka 13, room13.pl

Sen Pszczoły Famous, infamous or a bit of both? Moving from their temporary digs in the Koneser Factory, the new-look Sen Pszczoły is every bit as murky as the previous: amid a heavy industrial background, find partygoers enjoying a mixed bag of events that range from didgeridoo performances to full-on techno that makes fillings pop out. ul. Grochowska 301/305, senpszczoly.pl

Smolna 38 One of the most secretive clubs there is: operating a strict no-pictures policy, being caught taking a selfie is a crime punished by expulsion – and how good is that!

Attracting a hardcore crowd, its a place of real sounds: forget the joke DJs most clubs settle for, Smolna’s agenda has thus far included the likes of Simian Mobile Disco and Ellen Allien. (E4) ul. Smolna 38

(D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, enklawa.com

Luztro Feeling naughty? Luztro enjoys a reputation for libertine behavior and illicit pharmaceuticals. Dark, grim and grotty, this after party stalwart gets going at about 4 a.m. on weekends when troglodyte club creatures emerge zombie-like to dance way past sunrise. Jaw grinding, rib rattling electro has never felt better. (E4)

The View Sat on top of the Spektrum Tower this bar/club has reinvented the whole concept of going out in Warsaw. A truly world-class venture, the open-air deck on the 32nd floor offers striking views of the cityscape, first rate cocktails and an international rotation of DJs. No other club nails the champagne lifestyle with quite the same panache. (C4) ul. Twarda 18,

Al. Jerozolimskie 6, luztro.pl

theview.pl

Bar & Cafe Listings cocktails 6 Cocktails If 6 Cocktails has the feeling of hanging around someone’s flat that’s because, actually, you are. This posh Mokotowska apartment has been re-adapted as an exclusive bar frequented by leggy models and society figures: the parties are nuts!

Unmarked from street level, to enjoy the inventive cocktails message them on FB and await your invite. (E5) ul. Mokotowska 57

warm, dimly lit interior that’s heaving with cogs, metal hooks and enigmatic dials.

The later it gets, the better it is. (E5) ul.

Marszałkowska 21/25 (enter from Oleandrów)

Biała Expect highly individualized cocktails, a thoughtful menu and a glam, vamped up crowd every bit as beautiful as the place itself: set in a gloriously white inter-war villa, this is a place that oozes with sex appeal. There aren’t many finer outdoor gardens. ul. Francuska 2, fb.com/

Karowa 31, warsawbarproject.com

Kita Koguta The staff aren’t afraid to get imaginative, and that includes serving cocktails in smoking coconut husks. Not all the experiments go as planned: on our last visit, a basic Bloody Mary was turned into an alcoholic carrot flavored fizz. (E5) ul.

Krucza 6/14

Kiti Bar A raucous bar drawn up by the owners of

bialazjedziwypij

THE MOST

Bar & Books R C P T M Seen through a thin autumnal mist, this C W white townhouse radiates warmth: lights ≈ W C glimmer, ≈ piano music tinkles. Wood-panC C eled and≈ lined with leather-bound tomes, T there’s a≈ sense of dignity that’s unique to P E Warsaw’s ≈ cocktail scene. There’s humor, L S as well, courtesy of portraits of chimps P B out like B togged 18th century gentry.

Similar to a members’ only Mayfair bar, find ‘classic with a twist’ cocktails mixed and muddled by the sort of charming bartenders you’d trust serving Bond.

While bills can become weighty affairs, no one regrets the spend – plus, you can smoke here as well! (D2) ul. Wąski Dunaj 20, EFRESHINGLY LACES

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charliebar.pl

HAMPAGNE

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Charlie Arguably the best and boldest opening of the year, Charlie presents thrilling cocktails inside an interior that wouldn’t be amiss in Manhattan: there’s even a fountain! Being rich and pretty is almost a compulsory criteria. (E6) ul. Mokotowska 39,

VENTS

HOOTS

AR AND

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Wąski Dunaj 20, 00-256 Warsaw Tel.: +48 225.599.199

Coctail Bar Max Can you trust a cocktail bar that can’t even spell the word? In this case, yes! Max looks bright, cheerful and fully loaded for the sun, and also comes with a smoking alcove in the back stuffed with whisky and cigars. The cocktails are the main affair though, and here they’re extravagant efforts that resemble a tropical jungle in miniature form. Very popular with types that aspire to become footballers’ wives, etc. (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, barmax.pl

barandbooks.pl

BarV Wieczorny O L a P i n Y The cocktails are serious here, with top www.barandbooks.pl quality spirits (Vestal, Baczewski, Woodford Reserve) used with equally big name mixes (Fentimans, Big Tom, etc.). Further, you’ll find it’s the right products in the right hands – the staff really know their game. (D8) ul. Wiśniowa 46, barwieczorny.pl n

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Column Bar Just the look of Column Bar sweeps you off your feet; there’s something breathlessly classy about it, like you’ve just entered Gatsby’s ballroom. You want to order a pyramid of champagne and dance on their piano. Behave, and order a cocktail instead. For a taste of the classics, the Column Bar is pretty peerless.

(D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44 (Hotel Bristol)

Bardziej It’s thanks to places like Bardziej that Oleandrów is becoming one of the most talked about streets around. This splitlevel bar does a good job of capturing the essence of the area, with inventive ‘author’s cocktails’ matched against a

Karowa 31 Warsaw’s original speakeasy grants access via a retractable door disguised as a VHS collection – how cool is that!?

Maze-like in layout, the retro-looking Karowa 31 unravels to reveal a series of chambers concealed in shadow, though for all that the cocktails are the real draw: masterful creations composed by a dreadlocked Dane called Bram. (D3) ul. warsawinsider.pl

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Bar & Cafe Listings the nearby Kita Koguta. Dominated by a tall Polynesian totem, this ray of sunshine gets noted for extravagant cocktails served by game staff in zany shirts. (D5) ul. Krucza 6/14

Lazy Dog While Lazy Dog isn’t exactly new, it does feel like it’s turned over a new leaf – what was a good cocktail bar, it seems, has grown to become a very good one.

Seeking inspiration from some of the world’s wackiest artworks, the cocktails aren’t just beautiful to look at, but damn good to drink... If there’s a highlight, that’s the ‘Fight Between A Tiger & A Buffalo’, a spicy, tropical creation complete enveloped in a thick billowing mist. (D5) ul.

Krucza 16/22, lazy-dog.pl

Na Lato Once derided as a hipster haunt, the twits have moved on, replaced instead by an increasingly on-trend crowd of rich young things. The cocktails are without doubt up there with the best in Wa-wa and the basement club area has the added boon of a glassed-in smoking room – though with summer here, the outdoor garden is the place to head. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44 Palmier Escapist in every respect, there’s a star quality here, a real sense of swank. The interiors are the stuff of Gatsby – tall palm fronds and marble finishes underneath ceilings that stretch forever – while the long, strip terrace is pure seasonal bliss: a place to chill, chat and pretend to be one of Warsaw’s top 1%. Well-balanced and impeccable on every level, cocktails here are a liquid journey into the heart of pleasure. (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12 Panorama Sky Bar The Marriott’s 40th floor Panorama has had a couple of incarnations: first, as a glitzy Dynasty throwback, and then, more recently, as something that could have passed for a business class airport lounge. Now it’s been reinvented once again, only this time successfully: find slick, vibrant interiors redolent of London matched up with modern cocktails and twinkling views. (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, panoramabar.pl

Ritual High on good looks and self-confidence,

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Ritual is the kind of bar / club crossover that modern Warsaw just can’t do without. Catapulting Mazowiecka back into the spotlight, Ritual’s door selection is cut-throat and ensures only the cream of the capital make it through the door.

With entry bagged, enjoy beautiful cocktail creations and a program of live music that ranges from jazz and rock to more clubby sounds at the weekend. (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, ritualwarsaw.com

The Roots Cluttered with shiny props and pieces rescued from the early days of cocktail making, The Roots could pass for a Victorian era curiosity shop. Looking past the eccentricities that comprise the interior, it’s become famous on account of irresistible drinks mixed and muddled by dapper experts that aren’t so much barmen as they are craftsmen. (C2) ul.

Wierzbowa 11

Steam Bar Tapping into the fashion for steampunk design, this wholehearted effort ensures all of the basic elements are ticked off and present: metallic, industrial leftovers, sprockets and chains, and exposed, weathered walls. The cocktails are the key detail though, and here they’re inventive offerings often presented in ingenious vessels. Best known for its craft beer scene, the arrival of an excellent cocktail bar represents big news for Nowogrodzka. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 23 Weles A swing of the door takes visitors plunging down a blacked-out stairwell and into a basement that emerges from the darkness like a decadent Tsarist relic: glinting chandeliers glimmer over deep leather sofas, their subtle light casting a glow over an immaculate clientele. Befitting the venue, the artisanal cocktails are a work of elaborate craftsmanship, and incorporate everything from elite liquors to strips of bacon and flower petals. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 11, welesbar.pl

Woda Ognista Woda Ognista evokes the jazzy air of a Chicago, Prohibition era speakeasy with a seriously stylish interior that includes a colossal collection of vintage cocktail shakers that glint behind glass. The drinks themselves, rattled up by dapper

gents in braces and flat caps, are split between house creations and reprised classics from a bygone era. Some are more successful than others, and it’s a credit to the staff that they’re willing to take comments on board and adapt their precious recipes to suit fussy tastes. (E5) ul. Wilcza 8, wodaognista.com

Zamieszanie Cuda Na Kiju have built on their continuing success by adding this spot in the glass block next to their tap pub. Here though it’s cocktails that are the draw.

Pre-bottled in a secret room downstairs, meaning none of the ad-libbed artistry of other cocktail bars, and tastes that are closer in line to 90s alcopop drinks than anything else. That doesn’t stop a young crowd from swamping the place come the weekend. (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 6/12 Zorza Slotted inside what was once Café 6/12, Zorza embellishes the venue’s ascetic PRL style with licks of art deco: it’s an unlikely marriage that manages to work.

Do your pecking, picking, sipping and supping on an outdoor terrace set-up that encourages mingling and interaction. (D4) ul. Żurawia 6/12, zorzabistro.pl

craft beer Artezan Pub Browar Artezan’s flagship pub is a compulsory visit for all beer aficionados.

The beer is the magnetic force with eight taps blasting out pacesetter tipples from this brewery’s portfolio. The Pacific is the Insider’s all-time favorite. (D4) ul. Moniuszki 1A, artezan-pub.ontap.pl

Beerokracja You can forget that it’s just opened, the subterranean Beerokracja isn’t far removed from the student union bars you may have frequented 20 years back: Nirvana and Hendrix posters, live bands, a big screen for football and lots of shouty background din. But despite looking like it was rustled up in a day the place works faultlessly: find a great line-up of new wave beers served by a staff who prefer to pour your beer first than answer the phone that’s ringing in their pocket. (D5) Marszałkowska 99/101, beerokracja.pl

Bar & Cafe Listings BrewDog Warszawa BrewDog don’t get everything right: at one stage last summer, it seemed like they were upping their prices every other weekend. But while it’s true it’s not the cheapest pint in Warsaw, there’s a feel good factor here that manifests itself inside interiors that rock and beers that go BOSH. Of all the craft beer bars that have swept into Warsaw, this is the one that feels the most international, inclusive and bloody good fun. (D4) ul. Widok 8

BROUGHT TO YOU BY BARDZIEJ

Chmielarnia A subterranean multi-tap found in the depths of the fishing institute. Artisan beers rule the roost here (there’s 15 taps and stacks more beer in the fridge), a point underlined by a glass coffin of mainstream macro lager. While the bar gets loud and rackety, sweaty and sticky, that’s balanced out by a rotating beer offer that’s moderately priced plus a friendly, earnest audience that’s all beer geeks and know-it-alls. (B5) ul. Twarda 42 (basement level), chmielarnia.waw.pl

Chmielarnia Marszałkowska With Warsaw’s tap bars all falling over each other to stock the latest tap beers, your options are frequently similar from bar to bar – which is when a good fridge becomes important. Not only can you actually see into Chmielarnia’s, you’ll find it housing the most exciting brews trending around the globe: from the edgy Bermondsey breweries to the Scandinavian giants. Broaden your horizons! (E7) ul.

Marszałkowska 10/16, chmielarnia.waw.pl

Cuda Na Kiju Where it all began. Summer catches Warsaw’s original tap bar at its best, with the courtyard of the former Communist Party HQ now home to an entirely different kind of party: on occasions find food trucks and film screenings, and all other times just a massive crowd getting sloshed on 15 types of tap beer. But even outside the sweaty months Cuda is worth the visit: drink inside a modern, glass cube that’s refreshing contemporary. (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, cudanakiju.pl

Cyderia Conceived by the management of Plan B, this bar comes with an immaculate, moody interior designed by the acclaimed Projekt Praga: find coal black crates sus-

SUMMER QUENCHER

We created Bitter Truth About Lemon to give our guests a taste they won’t ever experience anywhere else. It’s a cocktail that has reigned supreme for months on our menu and is one of our biggest sellers.

The mix of gin flavors and quinine macerate with lush vermouth guarantees an unforgettable taste experience. The drink is completed with lemon sorbet which matches the mixture perfectly. Each sip brings out a variety of flavors that range from delicate bitter acidity to fresh sweetness. A true rock star on our author’s menu, find it decorated with a slice of star fruit. Perfect for hot days, it’s a drink that recalls the steamiest of summers. Aromatic, subtle but precise in taste, that’s the Bitter Truth About Lemon.

See you at BARDZIEJ! ul. Marszałkowska 21/25 (enter from ul. Oleandrów), tel. 22 118 2743, www.bardziejbar.pl warsawinsider.pl

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Bar & Cafe Listings pended from the ceiling and a zinc-topped bar made from slabs of oak. Looking cool and current, it’s not just the aesthetic touches and cosmetic kisses that make Cyderia special. The real cause for visiting is a choice of seven or so ciders, mainly sourced from small Polish farmsteads and artisan producers. ul. Poznańska 16 Cześć It started as a café, but now Cześć is better known as being at the forefront of the new generation of ‘quali-tap’ bars – small little places with six or so beers on tap. The two owners, Piotrek and Kuba, take their beer seriously, so do expect plenty of new finds as well as traditional favorites from stalwarts like the Artezan and Pinta breweries. The laidback, neighborhood atmosphere is making it increasingly popular with a tight-knit circle of ex-pat drinkers. (C3) ul. Grzybowska

fb.com/HeritageBirreriaArtigianale

Hoppiness You’re in good hands here – opened under the patronage of the Pracownia brewery, this small-scale operation goes beyond merely offering the beers of its sponsor.

There’s 12 taps in all, a decent fridge to geek over, an ace burger and beer-based ice cream – hooray! (D4) ul. Chmielna 27/31,

2 (through the side passage), czesc.waw.pl

hoppiness.ontap.pl

Czeska Baszta Halfway up one of the Harry Potter turrets that support Poniatowski Bridge, find divey Czeska engulfed in a murky yellow glow. Boisterous but friendly, the ace up their sleeve is a brilliant assembly of Czech craft beer. (E4) Tower 22A, Most

Jabeerwocky Steeped in multinational drunken babble, the super sociable Jabbers is famed for its innovative beer selection and convivial atmosphere. Mark it down as an absolute must-visit, especially if you’re a fan of stout and cider. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 12,

Poniatowskiego, czeskabaszta.pl

taproom.pl

Drugie Dno To plug into the pounding heart of Warsaw’s craft beer scene, look no further than Nowogrodzka. Joining the ranks of the street’s multi-tap bars is Drugie Dno, a three-level space that’s been themed to evoke the look of a disused power station.

Sporting rugged brickwork and a scuffed style, the industrialized look has been amped up to the max through the use of steel girders, vintage voltage meters and toilets disguised as elevator shafts. (D5) ul.

Kufle i Kapsle All levels of drinkers are catered for in this raw-looking space, from those ready to pay nosebleed prices for beers with spaceships on the label, right the way down to novices taking their first baby steps in the world of craft booze. Interiors are balanced with the pre-war heritage of the place, and are thick with noise, clamor and the spell of spillage. Unisex toilets, meaning there’s usually one idiotka putting a spanner in the queue code. (D5)

Nowogrodzka 4

ul. Nowogrodzka 25, kufleikapsle.pl

Gorączka Złota Founded in 1996, Złota’s longevity is to be admired, even if the interiors aren’t.

Small, dark and a little pungent, the interiors are rendered out of little more than varnished wood and hundreds of beer coasters. But that’s the clue! The secret of their success is down to the beer. Stocking a range of regional and craft beer, this bar has an underlying honesty that makes it a success. (D5) ul.

Kufle i Kapsle Żoliborz While Nowogrodzka is the beating heart of the tap bar trend, not even the suburbs are safe from this flourishing movement. By expanding out to Żoliborz, Kufle i Kapsle have cornered a captive market. There’s just seven taps here, but they’re a magnificent seven – find a great representation of Polish craft draught, not to mention a satisfying selection of international bottles. The moderate size works it in its favor, lending it a neighborly

Wilcza 29, goraczka-zlota.com.pl

Heritage Birreria Artigianale A new twist on the multi-tap concept, Heritage’s hook is their obsession with Italian and British gypsy breweries. Eyes naturally fall on ten taps dispensing beers from Thornbridge, San Gabriel, Birrificio Milano, etc., and while the drawn-out pouring time can frustrate, most agree that the drinks are worth the wait. Find a well-presented middle-aged crowd squashed inside a tiny little unit that’s often full to capacity. (E3) ul. Tamka 9,

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atmosphere which sees first-timers quickly converted into returning regulars. ul Popiełuszki 19/21, kufleikapsle.pl Machinarium Unfurling in a metallic greenish haze the ground floor isn’t too dissimilar from a ship’s hull: the bar is all bolts and rivets, and the whole ‘age of travel’ theme is further explored through illustrative paintings of steam engines, zeppelins and other flying contraptions – Jules Verne would love it. The basement offers something else entirely: a rambling white painted space whose minimal design is punctuated with the occasional lantern, clock and reject store sofa. The four beer taps see frequent rotation and the fridge is kept busy with new wave beer. (E4) ul.

Smolna 36, machinarium.pub

Multitap Bla Bla Looking murky and in need of a good scrub (and that’s just the glasses), you feel Bla Bla is simply here to suck up overspill from its more high-profile neighbors. Ten taps here, usually carrying beers you know inside out. But you will find a seat and there’s a kebab shop next door. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 22, blabla.com.pl Piw Paw We don’t like: the sweaty toilet, strange smells nor the scrum at the bar. We do like: the 24hr opening hours, humongous fridge and 50+ taps. Seen in the light it’s a little depressing, so visit at night when Parkingowa takes on the look of an endof-term street party. (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34 (enter from ul. Parkingowa), piwpaw.pl

Same Krafty Occupying two narrow, rugged rooms, Same Krafty have rescued Old Town from big beer brands peddling piss. Offering artisan alternatives, this intimate bar has become a magnet for those looking to explore the more subversive side of Polish brewing. (D1) ul. Nowomiejska 10, samekrafty.pl

Same Krafty Vis-à-vis You wouldn’t have thought it a year back, but reasons keep emerging to drink in the Old Town. When it comes to pubs, Same Krafty top the list, but try getting served at peak drinking time. So here’s some brilliant news: they’ve now opened another bar opposite. Pass under a dragon’s head

Bar & Cafe Listings before stepping into a supremely friendly room with ten taps, a strong bottle line-up and an atmospheric side chamber. (D1) ul.

what the girls are like, yeah? Let the fact askmen.com voted it their favorite strip in the world speak for itself. (B3) Al.

drinks flow, strangers meet and music smashes out: you can feel something special happening here. ul. 11 Listopada 22,

Nowomiejska 11/13, samekrafty.pl

Solidarności 82A, playhouse.pl

hydrozagadka.waw.pl

Spiskowcy Rozkoszy The ground floor is an intimate space with lots of yet-to-be-famous beers and junky, antique furniture that reminds of the Boho hangouts in Kraków. But what was a packed, little bar is now a packed, big bar with the opening of the basement: find a labyrinth of rooms and psychedelic toilets with pulsating lights – you soon wonder who spiked your drink. And oh, the drinks.

Expect IPA and APA beers served from the six taps. (D5) ul. Żurawia 47/49, spiskowcy.pl

live music

Pardon, To Tu Found until recently on Pl. Grzybowski, the gentrification of the center recently saw the demolition of Pardon’s original HQ. Undeterred, the team behind Warsaw’s most experimental live music venue have revived their role in a temporary summer space outside Mokotów’s Nowy Teatr. Strung with fairy lights, this outdoor jumble of furniture comes alive in a magic swirl of innovative sound once live bands step on the stage. (E9) ul. Madalinskiego

The Taps No longer a niche movement, the opening of The Taps is another sign of craft beers mainstream market penetration. Set on the once super trendy Sienkiewicza, hopes are high that the opening of this three-floor drinking den could yet revive the fortunes of this street. Appealing to a young, pre-club crowd, the industrial / loft-style décor feels rather contrived and a little too polished. ul. Sienkiewicza 4 Wynurzenie Drinking on the Wisła no longer means having to settle for mainstream beer served a notch above warm. Leading this (r)evolutionary process is Wynurzenie, a floating bar set on a canopied barge.

Bounce across the gangplank to indulge in tap beers from Raduga and a Mexican menu that’s modest in size but quality in scope. Occasional events mean visitors shouldn’t be surprised to find their drinks disrupted by vinyl fairs or, even, skinny yoga girls wiggling their bums in the air.

Bulwar B. Grzymały-Siedleckiego (next to Świętokrzyskie Bridge)

12on14 Jazz Club Warsaw has a rich tradition of jazz, so you have to sometimes wonder, just where the hell are all the jazz bars? In 12on14’s case, down a courtyard and through a side entrance. Dark, smart and sophisticated, here’s a place that’s fitted out with framed portraits of sax tooting masters as a well-stocked bar area decorated with quotes from jazz legends.

Open from Tuesday till Saturday, evenings see local and international musicians take to the stage. (D6) ul. Noakowskiego 16,

10/16

vodka

12on14club.com

Chwila Entered under a red, cabaret-style awning, Chwila is a reject factory space turned good. Furry cushions, patchwork quilts and student art vie for attention alongside iron girders and industrial leftovers inside what is becoming known as one of the top alternative music venues this side of the river. The toilet alone, papered with trillions of cool posters and magazine covers, is a reason to linger. (B3) ul. Ogrodowa 31/35

Eufemia Eufemia unwraps into a series of side rooms furbished with VHS tapes, student artwork and furniture looted from your grandparents dining room. The claustrophobic atmosphere lends itself well to intimate gigs that see everything from improvised instrumentals to bands called Graveyard Drug Party. (D3) Krakowskie

for gentlemen

Przedmieście 5 (enter via ul. Niżyńskiego), klubojadalniaeufemia.blogspot.com

Playhouse Not here gorilla gangsters on the door or pushy girls doing the rounds (“buy me drinky drinky”). Instead, Playhouse models itself on the top class mega clubs such as Spearmint Rhino, and the result is a subterranean space removed from the sleaze and murk usually associated with the industry. But you want to know

Hydrozagadka Set out in the wildlands of Praga, consider Hydrozagadka as the heart of unforced cool. Known for its alternative music scene, the low-ceiling and tight, crowded nature of it generate an electrifying atmosphere where the audience and band become one. Walking a fine line between industrial and straight out decrepit, the atmosphere is second to none:

Bar Warszawa Thick with alcoholic fumes and the sound of drunken tantrums, Bar Warszawa excels in its role as a late night dive bar.

Split on two levels, upstairs is where most head to flop around a retro lounge interior filled with nostalgic decorations that tempt kleptomaniacs. The cut price shots and pints do their bit in facilitating slurred conversations with a variety of strangers.

Not surprisingly, evenings often extend beyond the advertised closing time of 4 a.m. (D2) ul. Miodowa 2, barwarszawa.pl Dom Wódki Those expecting Dom Wódki to be a standard mucky shot bar are in for a surprise.

Sparkling with over 250 artisanal vodkas, find them incorporated into inspirational drinks mixed by Tomasz Małek, a world champion flair bartender. More than just show, the tastes are incredible. (C2) ul.

Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl

Meta Chains of old bog paper, Karol Gott album covers and other Communist keepsakes litter this shot bar. But for a real blast to the past, visit their Parkingowa venue for a full-on, Polski-style retro disco. It’s hilarious. ul. Mazowiecka 11 / Foksal 21 / Parkingowa 5

Pijalnia Havoc reigns in Pijalnia, and watching all the tears and tiffs on a Friday night is warsawinsider.pl

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Bar & Cafe Listings something of a spectator sport. Pickles and vodka are the essential order, while reading matter is supplied via commieera sports reports that are plastered to the wall. many locations, fb.com/pijalnia.

most prestigious producers in the world, right the way down to tiny, little vineyards you’ve probably never heard of. If the sun is out, aim for a place on their back terrace. (E3) ul. Zajęcza 15, dekant.com.pl

warszawa

Pyk i Łyk Thundering through a flimsy door, customers are met by a tiny, divey area that’s devoid of furnishings aside from shelves of vodka and a bar that’s been painted to depict dripping blood. Yikes!

Decorated with bizarre montages of hard drinking rockers, once visitors settle into their vodka rhythm, it reveals itself as a bar of greatness. “No wi-fi,” shouts one sign, “talk to each other and get drunk.”

It’s that kind of place. (E4) ul. Nowy Świat

Dyletanci Often filled to capacity with crisp, modern citizens that radiate confidence, join them on green banquettes illuminated with Tom Dixon lamps. The wine list is fitting of the A-list, and aside from exceptional international choices, also includes interesting wines from the proprietor’s own label – a frankly superb Polish brand called Dom Bliskowice. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44, dyletanci.pl

26, fb.com/pyk.i.lyk

wine bars Ale Wino!

At first you think you’re walking into a car park. And then, it hits you – a beautiful inner-city sanctum with wooden decking, a slanted sail shielding the sun, and bespoke, funky chairs from the esteemed Studio Rygalik. You want to dwell here for a bit longer than planned: and there’s no harm in doing so.

One of the Insider’s favorite wine bars, Ale Wino’s food is also top-notch (E5) ul.

Enoteka It’s the wine bar New Town has been waiting for ever since… the old Enoteka closed. The eagerly awaited return brings with it a new location – right on the corner of New Town Square and a wine list from curated by importer Maciej Bomboł. (D1) Rynek Nowego Miasta 13/15, enotekapolska.pl

Hoża You’ll probably know Hoża as the home of steak. But what is meat without wine? complementing the Argentine-inspired cooking is a wine list particularly dense with reds. (D5) ul. Hoża 25a, hoza.warszawa.pl

Mokotowska 48, alewino.pl

Bubbles Despite sounding like a 90s small town nightclub, Bubbles is in fact a worthy place of note: a small, warm venue with a slow food menu and a design that incorporates lots of upturned crates and dusty bottles. Champagne is the main draw here, with many labels that are exclusive to Poland. Some come with terrifying prices, but on the whole the price points are widely accessible: wine from zł. 10 and a flute of champers from zł. 29.

(D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, bubbles.com.pl

Dekant Wine Bar Set inside an attractive open space, the opening of Dekant is a further indication of Powiśle’s shift from hipster epicenter to upscale playground (Robert Lewandowski has been spotted here!). The list comprises over 400 wines from the

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Kieliszki Na Hożej Already celebrated for their operation on Próżna, this latest branch continues in much the same vein: classy interiors, a prime location on one of Warsaw’s few surviving pre-war streets and a casual bistro vibe matched up against a glorious Italian influenced wine list. The concise food menu connects local Polish to classic French and adds an interesting modern twist. ul. Hoża 41, kieliszkinahozej.pl Mielżyński Wine Bar Robert Mielżyński, a Canadian-born oenologist, awakened Warsaw’s love affair with the grape when he launched Mielżyński in 2004, and it continues to serve as the accepted benchmark to which all wine bars aspire. Their cause is amply boosted by a fine selection of bites to accompany the superlative wine offer. Find it in a pared down warehouse

that emanates casual city cool. (A1) ul.

Burakowska 5/7, mielzynski.pl

Mielzynski Wine Bar After three years in the pipeline Warsaw’s second outpost of Mielżyński is everything you’d expect: the concise menu is never too complex while the exciting wine choice presents over 500 labels. This vibrant warehouse-style space promises much. (G9) ul. Czerska 12, mielzynski.pl Nowina Though only opened towards in January, Nowina have thus far chalked up a bundle of five star reviews. Helping in the achievement of that has been a striking interior that catches the eye from across the street – restored pre-war tiling, glinting surfaces, a world map rendered from corks and an engaging reddish glow all do their bit to lend Nowina the kind of atmosphere that’s missing in most local wine bars. Add to that an exciting international menu and a selection of over 400 wines and you have an absolute winner. ul. Nowogrodzka 4, nowina.waw.pl WinKolekcja The selection of New World wines is exceptional, though classicists are also catered for via an extensive choice of Spanish, French and Italian wines. Their highly recommended restaurant provides further reason to linger inside a design that has the routine look of a club class lounge. (E10) ul. Olkuska 7, winkolekcja.pl Winosfera Once a pre-war cinema, now a stunning wine bar / store with one of the most impressive collections in Poland: an expense account comes in handy. Equally notable is the ambitious fine dining menu of Jakub Adamczyk. (B3) ul. Chłodna 31, winosfera.pl

Żurawina Lacking in intimacy, this large white room gets criticized for its jarring artwork and staffing blips – in the world of wine it’s important the customer can connect to the staff: here, we felt like we were joining the SS. But both food and wine score highly, and they’ve earned a staunchly loyal following that includes high flying types and Paris Hilton wannabes that carry yappy dogs in their bag. (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34, zurawina.eu

DO!

PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

A FINE LINE

This summer the left bank of the riverfront has stolen the spotlight, but there’s still action aplenty across on the opposite side. Firmly established as a weekend favorite, Park Linowy Warszawa offers three rope walks to pick from, the most difficult of which is 400 meters in length and comes peppered with 28 obstacles. That’s not the only thrill available on this side of the Wisła: unveiled at the tail end of May, and funded by the city’s ‘participatory budget’, find a giant climbing boulder a short skip from Most Świętokrzyski. Covering a surface area of 170 sq/m, and four meters high at its tallest point, the rock has been specially designed so as to test all levels of ability: from novice to pro.

Park Linowy Warszawa (Wybrzeże Helskie 1/5, parklinowywarszawa.pl) Climbing Boulder (next to Most Świętokrzyski)

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Making History

The Museum of Warsaw makes the right kind of splash in its opening month…

P

oland’s charge towards the modern has come at a cost. From a cultural point of view, it’s meant numerous museums and galleries placing traditional values on the sacrificial altar and trading them for swank facilities festooned with gadgets, gimmicks and buttons you can press. The modern museum is no longer a place of learning, rather a house of entertainment aimed at Generation X Box – great for idiots, tedious for others.

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So when the venerable Museum of the History of Warsaw closed its doors in 2012, the suspicion expressed by traditionalists was that it would follow the herd and return in some heinous dumbed down form.

That fear has proved unfounded – reopened at the end of May, the museum (now rebranded as the Museum of Warsaw) has retained its dignity and integrity whilst at the same time improving and sharpening the visitor experience.

Still very much a work in progress (over 60% is marked as ‘coming soon’), the looping, rambling trail begins underground in a series of chambers dedicated to ‘Warsaw data’. If it sounds bland and nerdy, this opening section is given lift by a heavy overdose of kooky factoids (Warsaw’s first kebab shop: 1994; its first strip club: 1957), not to mention some fab 1:200 scale models of famous city landmarks.

Onwards, and visitors are then taken past approximately 8,000 objects that constitute ‘the Things of Warsaw’ exhibition. Equally eccentric, these include peculiar souvenirs, postcard collections and over 200 paintings depicting differing views of the city through the ages. Accompanied by informative info blurbs, it all feels cohesive and comprehensive yet never too overwhelming. This isn’t a full-frontal assault on the senses, more of a slow-burning immersion that allows people to absorb the information at a pace they can handle.

And, of course, there’s the building itself. Spanning a total of eleven tenements, it’s a joy just roaming the dark nooks and snaking corridors.

Climaxing with vertiginous views from a top floor observation post, finding a superior view of the Rynek would involve skyjacking a hot air balloon.

Staggering in scope and faultless in its execution, the Museum of Warsaw is a remarkable addition to Warsaw’s sightseeing agenda – and proof, if any was needed, that history is compelling enough without digital distractions and high-tech diversions.

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

Review: Museum of Warsaw

Museum of Warsaw Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42, muzeumwarszawy.pl, Admission: zł. 20/15

Equally eccentric, these include peculiar souvenirs, postcard collections and over 200 paintings depicting differing views of the city through the ages

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Calendar F E S T I VA L

Otwarta Ząbkowska Jul 1-2, 15-16, 22-23, 29 @ ul. Ząbkowska

Colorful, energetic and audaciously eccentric, this street festival sees Praga’s spiritual gateway closed to traffic and transformed courtesy of outbreaks of street yoga, cooking workshops, live gigs, literary readings and vintage vinyl markets. And that’s the tip of the iceberg.

For further info, see: otwartazabkowska.pl

F E S T I VA L

Quiet Zone Music Festival Every Sat & Sun @ Łazienki Park

This festival returns for a fifth year running with a series of weekend concerts covering a varied range of genres: jazz, classical and ‘traditional’. Sunday July 1st, marks the inauguration with performances of Polish and international music.

Subsequent weeks see the musical focus fall on Germany, France and Spain.

For more info, check: strefaciszyfestival.pl

Chopin Statue, Łazienki Park

Listen to some of Poland’s top talents – young and old – recite works from Chopin’s oeuvre in the rose-fringed gardens of Łazienki Park. The Sunday concerts run each summer and attract crowds of hundreds.

Center, Pole Mokotowskie and…

Metro Słodowiec. The repertoire is as diverse as the locations – this year films include Grand Budapest Hotel, Gravity, Sniper, and The Weather War. For more info, check: facebook. com/filmowastolica

CARS

Each Thursday @ Pl. Europejski

Jul 2 @ Pl. Teatralny

Held each Thursday at 9 p.m., weekly film screenings will be held in the shadow of the Warsaw Spire. Sun loungers, drinks and outdoor cinema: not a bad idea.

F E S T I VA L

Gumball Rally From 5 p.m. onwards over 120 cars participating in the Gumball 3000 Rally will begin pouring into Warsaw – head to Teatralny to greet them and enjoy the live entertainment that’s been scheduled.

Street Art Festival Ongoing until 2 July @ various locations

The festival showcases abstract, often brilliant, street theater plays courtesy of troupes from across Europe. The festival aims to integrate art with the everyday landscape of the city, and as such you can expect events to take place in parks, metro stations and other public spaces.

Tickets from zł. 209 @ bilety24.pl

CONCERT

Depeche Mode Jul 21 @ National Stadium, ul. Poniatowskiego 1

FILM

Summer Cinema

bar, boules on the lawn, a French buffet, live music and a firework display – among other attractions.

The undisputed champions of electronic doom rock return to Warsaw as part of their epic Global Spirit Tour. The 22-track set list includes material from their latest album, as well as past hits such as Enjoy The Silence and Barrel of a Gun. Tickets from zł. 179 @ livenation.pl

CONCERT SPORT

Warsaw Derby Gala Jul 2 @ Służewiec Racecourse, ul. Puławska 266

The most prestigious horse race in Poland has a tradition that dates back to 1896. For many though, the racing is a mere side note when compared to the ladies hat competition!

Jessie Ware Jul 21 @ Palladium, ul. Złota 9

The British songstress has forged a stellar reputation since the 2012 release of her debut album, Devotion. Career highlights include being nominated as Best Female at the MOBO Awards, and Best Female Solo Artist at the Brits.

Tickets from zł. 125 @ eventim.pl

For further info, see: torsluzewiec.pl

For info, see: sztukaulicy.pl

CONCERT F E S T I VA L

F E S T I VA L

Jazz in the Old Town Every Sat, 19:00 @ Pl. Zamkowy

Running each Saturday throughout the summer, the 23rd edition of Jazz in the Old Town will bring together a number of international artists to perform for free in the Rynek and Pl. Zamkowy.

Attracting audiences of up to 4,000 people, artists booked for July include the Francesco Cafiso Quartet, John Pizarelli & Jobim, Oregon, Nicholas Payton and the James Carter Quartet. For further info, see: jazznastarowce.pl Free admission

CONCERT

Chopin in the Park Every Sunday, 12:00 & 16:00 @

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F E S T I VA L

Muical Gardens Festival Jul 1 to 26 @ Royal Castle, Pl. Zamkowy

Film screenings, concerts and operatic performances will be held pretty much every day inside the courtyard of the Royal Castle. The inaugural evening will see a performance of Traviata conducted by Nicola Luisotti.

For details, see: ogrodymuzyczne.pl

Warsaw Summer Jazz Days Jul 6-9 @ Soho Factory, ul. Mińska 25

July is definitely the Jazz Month of Warsaw, with the highlight being the Summer Jazz Days festival, dating all the way back to the 90s. Performers this year include Kamasi Washington, Immortal Onion, Harriett Tubman and Tonbruket. For details, see: warsawsummerjazzdays.pl For ticket info, see: adamiakjazz.pl

FILM

Filmowa Stolica Throughout Jul @ various locations

A series of open air film screenings in scenic locations across the capital: among them Royal Wilanów, the Copernicus Science

Tamikrest Jul 26 & 27 @ Pardon, To Tu, ul.

Madalińskiego 10/16

Ever since their 2009 debut album, Adagh, this Malian band have come to be regarded as the spearhead of ‘the new Tuareg generation’ and have been credited with ‘opening up new paths between desert blues and Western rock.

Tickets from zł. 69 @ goingapp.pl

SPORT

Warsaw Uprising Run Jul 29 @ city center

COMMUNITY

French Ball Jul 14 @ Endorfina Foksal, ul. Foksal 2

Regarded as one of the key society events of the summer, the annual French Ball will feature an open

Limited to 11,000 runners, this annual run will have two routes this year: one covering a distance of five kilometers, the other a distance of ten kilometers.

To register, see: aktywnawarszawa. waw.pl

BROUGHT TO YOU BY THE WARSAW AMBER MUSEUM

Chopin at the Amber Museum

Not just for fans of amber, from mid-July onwards visitors to the Amber Museum will be able to hear a series of live concerts in the exhibition’s main hall. Focusing on works selected from Chopin’s oeuvre, performances will present the very best of the world-famous Polish composer.

THE WARSAW AMBER MUSEUM Rynek Starego Miasto 4/6, tel. 506 007 685, biuro@muzeumbursztynu.com, www.muzeumbursztynu.com

BROUGHT TO YOU BY THE STATE ETHNOGRAPHIC MISEUM IN WARSAW

Hungarian Love

Ongoing until the end of August, Hungarian Love documents Hungarian sexual breakthroughs and traditions since the late 19th century till the present day. Racy, eccentric and frequently humorous, the exhibition dwells on themes of courtship, marriage, eroticism and sexuality.

STATE ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM IN WARSAW ul. Kredytowa 1, ethnomuseum.pl

BROUGHT TO YOU BY GRUNT I WODA

John Clifton

“John Clifton may not be a name that instantly leaps to mind like many of the West Coast blues scene harmonica players,” say the Cascade Blues Association, “but maybe it’s time it should be as he’s right there with the best.” Known for his ‘gut vocals and high energy performances,’ his style and prowess have been likened to Kim Wilson and Rod Piazza. Judge for yourself on July 20 when Clifton performs at Grunt I Woda (performance begins at 8.30 p.m.).

GRUNT I WODA Bulwar Flotylli Wiślanej, gruntiwoda.waw.pl

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Education listings EDUCATION preschools American School of Warsaw American School of Warsaw provides a rich, meaningful and balanced educational experience through age-appropriate activities to students aged 3 to 5. For further information and/or to visit our school, contact:admissions@aswarsaw.org or 22 ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel.

22 702 85 00, aswarsaw.org 702 85 00.

The British Primary School of Wilanów Following the National Curriculum of England and Wales, this is the first School in Poland subject to the inspection of the UK Independent School Inspectorate. Pupils receive British and, upon request, Polish reports/ diplomas. The school follows

a closed admissions policy and limits enrollment of one nationality to below 50% of each class starting from Year 1. ul. Hlonda 12, bsww.pl

dedicated, IB-trained teachers deliver an innovative program (PYP) in English designed for modern world needs. The program offers a combination of Literacy, Maths, Social Studies, Science, Physical Education, Art, Music & Rhythmics, French and Polish classes. ul.

The British School Early Years Centre The British School provides EYFS classes from Pre-nursery (age 30 months) to Reception (5 years old). Children develop quickly and their Early Years practitioners aim to do all they can to help your child have the best possible start in life and become a lifelong learner. ul. Dąbrowskiego 84

Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, canadian-school.pl

(Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646 7777 , thebritishschool.pl

The Canadian School of Warsaw Preschool Welcoming students from the ages of 2.5 to 6 years old, currently 45% of their admissions are international students. The

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations) Warsaw Montessori School Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have three green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in earlychildhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob.

692 099 134, warsawmontessori. edu.pl

Summer School Join us!

Casa dei Bambini Warsaw Montessori School invites all children for a special summer program from July 3rd to August 4th.

Accepting aplications for the children from 1,5 to 5 (Toddler and Casa program) and 6-12 (Elementary program) Location: Casa dei Bambini (behind Sielecka 52, Warsaw) For the reservation please contact: office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl tel. 692 099 134 www.warsawmontessori.edu.pl

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warsaw montessori school

All lessons conducted in English Montessori curriculum Field trips Special visitors Art Cooking Gardening Animals, nature and more!

International Trilingual School of Warsaw Established in 1994, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fillimmersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/ saint-exupery.pl

The English Playhouse The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów.

The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum

Education listings and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old.

For more info or to arrange a tour call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email: jnowak@theenglishplayhouse. com ul. Pływiańska 14a, tel. 22 843 9370, tep.edu.pl

Maple Tree Montessori Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/ Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, mapletreemontessori.pl

schools American School of Warsaw ASW is a

premier college-preparatory international school that offers a PK-12 curriculum, including the IB Diploma Program in Grades 11 and 12. Students are inspired and challenged every day by experienced and dedicated teachers, who provide enriching learning opportunities in a world class facility.

For further information contact: admissions@ aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00. ul. Warszawska 202 (KonstancinJeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, aswarsaw.org

The British Primary School of Wilanów Following the National Curriculum of England and Wales, this is the first School in Poland subject to the inspection of the UK Independent School Inspectorate. Pupils receive British and, upon request, Polish reports/ diplomas. The school follows a closed admissions policy and limits enrollment of one nationality to below 50% of each class starting from Year 1. ul. Hlonda 12, bsww.pl

The British School Premium international school established in 1992 by Nord Anglia Education. The curriculum is designed to provide the highest academic quality of education. They follow the English National Curriculum, adapted to the needs of their international student community: from Primary through to the Secondary Key Stages to the IGCSE examinations and a well-established International Baccalaureate (IB) Diploma Program. ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, thebritishschool.pl

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations) Warsaw Montessori School Guided by trained specialists, students will be responsible for managing their household, operating small businesses, caring for local flora and fauna as well as domesticated animals, taking charge of

the younger children and much more. “Adolescence Program” activities, integrated with academic studies, help students discover their inner strength to meet life’s real challenges. ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, warsawmontessori.edu.pl

The English Primary The English Primary is designed specifically for children in the primary education ages, just as children experience in England but in an international community.

Pupils are taken through the key learning stages so that they can achieve to the best of their ability through a fun learning experience. The Core Curriculum subjects include English, Science, Mathematics, French, PE and Swimming, Music, Personal, Social and Health Education. ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 784 037 808, tep.edu.pl

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Education listings 420 044, secretary@canadianschool.pl or secretary.olimpijska@ canadian-school.pl

The Canadian School of Warsaw International Elementary and Middle School Located on two campuses in the Mokotów this is the only authorized IB School with PYP programs taught in English and Polish. French is taught as a third language. Offers a wide range of extra activities, a summer school, and employs a full time psychologist. Provision is made for additional Polish and English support.

International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create the perfect learning environment. ul. Bełska 7, tel. 692 411 573 / 885

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International Trilingual School of Warsaw Established in 1994, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fillimmersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25,

tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/ saint-exupery.pl

prices. Intensive & regular Polish courses for beginners.

Business & everyday Polish. ul.

Warsaw Montessori School Focuses on the Montessori curriculum with an education based on the integration of conceptual learning and real-life experiences. ul.

Nowogrodzka 44 / 7, polishonlinenow.com

Szwoleżerów 4, tel. 22 841 3908, warsawmontessori.edu.pl

adult learning

Frog Acclaimed language school aimed at all levels of competency. Flexible schedules and a history of working with foreigners make it one of the ‘go to’ choices for new arrivals wanting to polish their Polish. ul. Mazowiecka 12/24, frog.org.pl

Cup of Polish Personalized Polish classes adapted to meet your needs.

Also home/company visits and online courses. cupofpolish.com Edu & More Polish Language School incorporating modern teaching methods and reasonable

Klub Dialogu Outstanding programs for foreigners living in Poland: a variety of courses aimed at every level. Using over ten years of experience, the leaning process becomes an adventure at Klub Dialogu. ul.

Ordynacka 13/5, klubdialogu.pl

Education listings SHOPPING accessories Agent Provocateur The boutique is stocked full of the latest collection – gorgeous lacy bras with scrumptious attention to detail, matching panties, teddies and a bunch of strappy get-ups you can only get away with if you’re very fit or very confident, but preferably both. ul. Mokotowska 59, agentprovocateur.com

Anacomito Luxurious-looking waist bags make for fashion that’s both modern and logical. More so, it makes the outsized bags of yesteryear increasingly redundant. anacomito.com

BeautyLab Polska Rated as one of the biggest names in global cosmetics, the range of treatments run from anti-ageing to daily body care and essential skin care. beautylablondon.pro

Bursztynek The largest amber jewelry store in Warsaw, though in addition to that visitors can also purchase unique amberrelated souvenirs as well as more classic gifts associated with Poland. Rynek Starego Miasta 4/6, bursztynek.co

di Trevi Boutique Aimed at both him and her, di Trevi present the freshest Italian footwear releases from prestigious brands such as

Ballin and Loriblu. Piękna 11A, ditrevi.pl

Hard Rock Cafe No wardrobe is complete without the iconic Hard Rock t-shirt! Find the Warsawstamped version available here, along with other extras for the all American look. ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), hardrockcafe.pl

HOS&me Luxury jewelry and the best in the biz. In stock: high end treasures from Nialaya, Lene Bjerre Design, Ti Sento, Christensen and Dryberg/ Kern. ul. Mokotowska 63, mokotowska63.com

Horn&More On-trend concept store specializing in hard-to-find,

deluxe brands: scents from Comme Des Garcons, jewlery from Le Petit Trou, cosmetics from DrLipp, candles from Fornasetti, etc. ul. Chopina 5B, hornandmore.com

Kate Roxs Beyond the slightly creepy / fetishistic window display (leather Roman body armor), this store has earned a reputation for high quality, natural leather bags. “Our inspiration,” says Kate, “comes from women, not trends.” ul.

Radna 10, kateroxs.eu

Malton & Kielman This leather workshop and store has a history dating from the 19th century and prides itself on luxury bespoke bags, shoes and accessories whose style is influenced by the clas-

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Shopping listings sical British and Italian look. ul.

Chmielna 6, maltonkielman.com Minty Dot Top quality Polish jewelry composed using gold, silver and natural stone. Contemporary in style, these are accessories that radiate class and craftsmanship while at the same time exuding a subtle sense of timeless romance. ul.

Bracka 5, mintydot.pl

Mo61 Billed as a ‘perfume laboratory’, Mo61 allows customers to create their own scents under the expert guidance of staff trained by Zygmunt Marczewski (“the best nose in Poland”!). ul. Mokotowska 61, mo61.pl

Pingle Optyk A collection of hand-selected designer eyewear that is serious in terms of quality control, but entirely whimsical when it comes to design. ul. Hoża 40

Schubert Rings, bracelets, necklaces and watches produced using the finest Baltic amber. Or for a unique gift, how about an amber chess set or an amber cigarette lighter? ul.

Piwna 12/14, ul. Piwna 26, ul. Świętojańska 11, worldofamber.pl

Stara Mydlarnia Handmade cosmetics such as fragrant soaps, bath gels and salts, body butters, massage oils and aromatic candles.

Ideal for home pampering.

Various locations inc. ul. Chmielna 4, mydla.pl

antiques Antykwariat na Tamce Presided over by a superfriendly hippy-looking dude, consider this a mine of rare vinyl (Beatles, Hendrix, Sabbath, weird Polish PRL stuff), as well as 15,000 comics and books. ul. Tamka 45B, antykwariat-tamka.pl

Pracownia Szczotek Opened in 1952, this bespoke brush store has been passed down the family line. On offer: everything from paintbrushes to moustache combs to hairbrushes. And the owner is a character as well: “I don’t have time for Facebook,” he says, “it would get in the way of my tango lessons!” ul.

Kolo What looks like a soggy tent city transforms each Sunday morning into a hopelessly addictive flea market offering wartime militaria, religious icons, chinaware, furniture from unverified periods of history, and even the occasional suit of armor. ul. Obozowa 99,

Poznańska 26, khaja.pl

gieldastaroci.waw.pl

Pracownia Czasu A true market leader with brands including Paul Picot, Graham London, Vulcain, Cuervo y Sobrinos, Ulysse Nardin and so many more. ul.

Kwadryga Antique books, faded photographs, yellowing maps and dog-eared magazines – the atmosphere is timeless. The PRL-era lifestyle magazines are an amazing insight into the past. ul. Wilcza 29, kwadryga.com

Wiejska 14, pracowniaczasu.pl

Puppy Star You know those glam girls who carry yappy dogs in their handbag? This is premiumpriced salon and boutique is where they shop for their pooch. ul. Niecała 7, puppystar.pl

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books Books For Cooks Just guess what the specialty here is? And if the Praga

address deters you, then click to their web to find a hefty offer of original language cook books, memoirs, restaurant guides and assorted foodie must-haves. ul. Inżynerski 1, booksforcooks.pl

Czuły Barbarzyńca A cafe / bookstore hybrid that you’d imagine doing well in Paris. The Polish-language choice is broad, and whilst the number of English-language could be extended everyone finds the atmosphere irresistible. ul. Piwna 20/26, czuly.pl Fundacja Bęc Zmiana A small curiosity shop selling trendy trinkets and a fair amount of art and architecture books with an accent on modern Warsaw. ul.

Filled with beautiful titles, Super Salon dedicates itself to books, magazines and albums covering weighty subject matter such as photography, design, erotica and architecture. Represented publishers include Phaidon, Gestalten and Steidl.

children shops Bimbus Accessories, clothes, furniture and toys for parents who pamper their child with nothing but the best. Brands include Tartine et Chocolat, Quax, Woodwork and Theophile & Patachou. ul. Wilcza 69, bimbus.com.pl

Mokotowska 65/7, beczmiana.pl

Księgarnia Bullerbyn A supremely cheerful bookstore peddling everything from pop-up books and fairytales to history and legends. The ace up their sleeve is a sizeable selection of English-language literature: and that includes The Gruffalo! ul. Chmielna 10, bullerbyn.com.pl

Moda Na Czytanie ul. Bracka 25 Some brilliant Warsaw-focused coffee table books, as well a half-decent collection of English-language books that range from classics to contemporary fiction.

Radio Telewizja ul. Andersa 29 Radio Telewizja

stock a range of literature that cover topics from local art and architecture to contemporary history. Tinged with a retro 60s atmosphere, their offer isn’t just based around Polish and English-language reading material and extends further into quirky gifts.

Baby D’Oro Making use of pastel colors and top quality fabrics, this Polish brand covers all bases from furnishings and fittings to toys and accessories. ul.

Długa 8/14

Endo endo.pl Endo is the original home of quality children’s wear that embraced great design by Polish artists and accompanied it with Polish slogans. Much of the materials used are organic, hardwearing and wash well.

Kopytko Mamuta Specializing in trendy kicks from the likes of Mercredi Apres Midi, it’s the ultimate spoiler for your budding style maven and her little Prince Charming. ul. Boya-Żeleńskiego 2, kopytkomamuta.pl

Super Salon

Lullaby Jam packed with funky design and quirky gifts for your little ones. However, the exquisite clothing and designer labels do come with a hefty price tag.

ul. Chmielna 10, supersalon.org

Multiple locations, lullaby.pl

Shopping listings fashion Ania Kuczyńska Ania Kuczyńska is becoming well known for her highly fashionable, minimalist clothing designs. The store also carries adorable baby clothes and various accessories. ul.

staple. Brands include Komono, Dynomighty, Uggly, Happy Socks and Wemoto.

No-one knows why, or too whom, but they also sell surfboards. ul. Dobra 11, hampersbay.com

Mokotowska 61

EM Cashmere Boutique Available brands include Allude Cashmere, Annette Görtz, Studiorundholz and Sarah Pacini with 30-40% discounts on last year’s collections, and up to 70% on those of previous years. ul. Szczygla 8, emcashmere.pl

Hamper’s Bay Fit out and fit into the local scene by stocking up on clothes from this Powiśle

Moliera 2 Boutique Brands include: Alexandre Birman, Alexandre Vauthier, Anya Hindmarch, Aquazzura, Balmain, Beach Bunny, Buscemi, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Francesco Russo, Gianvito Rossi, Herve Leger, Isabel Marant, Jimmy Choo, Kenzo, Kotur, Maison Michel, Moncler, One Teaspoon, Simonetta Ravizza, Tod’s, Tory Burch, Valentino, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon. ul.

Moliera 2, moliera2.com

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Brands include: Beach Bunny, Buscemi, Canada Goose, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Dsquared 2, Christian Louboutin, Fay, Gianvito Rossi, Hogan, Kenzo, Kotur, Moncler, Mr& Mrs Italy, One Teaspoon, Ralph Lauren, Simonetta Ravizza, Tom Ford, Tory Burch, Valentino, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon. Childrenswear: Burberry Children, Dsquared2 Kids, Kenzo Kids, Moncler Kids, Ralph Lauren Kids, Tod’s Kids.

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, plactrzechkrzyzy.com

Ptasia 6 A unique ladies concept store showcasing the works of both emerging and established independent Polish fashion

labels such as Eva Grygo, Confashion, Horror! Horror!, Kasia Miciak and Polanka. ul.

Ptasia 6, ptasia6.pl

Reykjavik District Chic, well-cut menswear for all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal. ul. Burakowska 15, reykjavikdistrict.com

Risk. Made In Warsaw Mixing modern shapes with expert tailoring, the idea was to create a look that’s both comfortable yet chic. That they’ve been featured in the likes of Vogue and Elle suggests that this target has been accomplished. ul. Szpitalna 9, riskmadeinwarsaw.com

Van Thorn Bespoke and made-to-

The Amber Heart of Warsaw

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Shopping Listings measure suits as well as custom-made shirts and a range of accessories from ties and pocket squares down to shoes and cufflinks. The attention to detail, the quality and craftsmanship are staggering. ul. Sienna 39, vanthorn.pl

home Le Pukka For interior inspirations take a look at Le Pukka: highly original furniture and decorative pieces for the home come from the likes of Smeg, AreaDeclic, HK Living and Zuiver. ul. Solec 58/60, lepukka.pl Lipova Showroom Products from Bolon, Vitra and Philips take center stage in Lipova, an edgy store that will reinvent your home / office.

From Bolon, find unique 3D flooring, from Vitra, modern Swiss furniture pieces and from Philips, Lumiblade OLEDs. ul. Lipowa 7A, lipova.pl

Baumalu, arty saltshakers from Menu and tableware from Muubs. ul. Mysia 3 noon/noon Well-balanced as a coffee bar / showroom where you can interact and experience the functionality and quality of the furniture first hand. ul.

Pańska 98 (enter from ul. Prosta), noonnoon.pl

Pies Czy Suka Husband and wife team Beata Konarska and Paweł Konarski push the boundaries of creativity in a home design store that’s heavy with statement pieces: life sized moldings of animals, illuminated Jesus statues, edgy art, etc. ul.

Szpitalna 8A, piesczysuka.com

Red Poppy Being the first hand-printing design studio in Poland, they focus primarily on making one-of-a-kind wallpapers as well curtains, lampshades, and cushions. ul. Lekarska 9, redpoppy.pl

Magazyn Praga A visit to this home design store is guaranteed to transform your apartment.

Showcasing emerging Polish talent, the items here are not without humor: ceramic French bulldogs are particularly popular. ul. Mińska

Reset Point A treasure trove of renovated antique furniture, vinyl clocks, 70s style handle-less PRL mugs and modern art prints of legendary landmarks such as Dworzec Centralny and the Palace of Culture. ul. Puławska

25 (Soho Factory)

48 sklep.resetpoint.pl

Makutra To know and not to cook, is not to know. This store has everything a master chef seeks: from tagines to mezzalunas, it’s got the lot covered. Huge stock of cook books and kitchenware. ul.

Scandinavian Living Representing upcoming Swedish, Danish and Finnish designers as well as several truly iconic names, Scandinavian Living presents such finds as tablecloths from Lazy Linen, ceramics by Bloomingville, and fun tableware from Muminki. ul. Wiertnicza

Oleandrów 5, makutra.com

Nap Bedtime accessories are the bread and butter here, but there’s also several bits for the kitchen as well: coffee makers

by Tom Dixon, posh pans from

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155, scandinavianliving.pl

Secret Life (of Things) An ‘eco lifestyle concept store’ full of bio-friendly scents, cosmetics, hand-made

trinkets and housewares, rustic furnishings and detox teas. Check the prestigious porcelain by Kristoff, stock up on Madara cosmetics, or snap up a pair of handmade shoes. ul. Dąbrowskiego 15A, secretlife.pl

SH Studio Art, interior design and furniture are married together inside a tiny store stacked with beautiful antique and retro pieces that have been refurbished and redesigned to lend them a contemporary edge. ul. Wilcza 44, s-h-studio.pl

Blind Concept Store From established international names to upcoming local designers, consider Blind your one-stop fashion solution: eclectic jewelry from Anka Krsytyniak and Chocokate, eyewear from Cheap Monday, killer heels from Vivienne Westwood, etc . ul. Mokotowska 63/100

Galeria Mokotów Stores inc. Calvin Klein, Hollister, Hugo Boss, New Balance, Royal Collection and Timberland. ul. Wołoska 12, galeriamokotow.com.pl

Velt Beautiful family-run glassware store whose pieces include the Leda lamp, awarded an honorable mention in the prestigious 2012 Red Dot Awards. ul. Próżna 12,

Klif House of Fashion Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has a line-up of top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko. ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl

velt.pl

Wawa Bla Bla Showcasing the works of Poland’s upcoming ‘street artists’, not to mention the British proprietor’s own photos of Warsaw’s graffiti, this shop is filled with unconventional keepsakes that include canvas prints, Warsaw-themed mugs and one-of-a-kind postcards. ul. Dobra 15

malls & department stores Arkadia Not many Polish malls do it better. Stores inc. Mango, Lacoste, Guess, Hilfiger and Peek & Cloppenburg. Al. Jana Pawła II 82, arkadia.com.pl

Plac Unii One of Warsaw’s latest mall counts Armani Jeans, Liu-Jo and Pandora amongst its upmarket tenants. ul. Puławska 2, placunii.pl

Mysia 3 Set in Poland’s former censorship office, the line-up includes Scandinavian fashion in Cos, shoes from My Paris, unconventional fashion from Nenukko and more. ul. Mysia 3, mysia3.pl

Vitkac Wolf Bracka Poland’s first luxury department store gathers the world’s top designers under one roof, with brands including Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton, Stella McCartney and Rick Owens. And that’s the tip of the iceberg. Vitkac, ul. Bracka 9, likusconceptstore.pl

Atelier Mokotowska 63 Four levels of high end fashion, with Woolrich, Mason’s, Lardini, Boglioli, Borelli and Seventy all represented. ul.

Mokotowska 63, fb.com/ateliermokotowska63

Złote Tarasy Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Jatomi Health and Fitness Club. ul.

Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl

Health & Beauty Listings Health & Beauty

Wygodny Rower Bike store and service center chain dealing with city bikes, fixed gear, single speed and road bikes. A huge range of bikes, running from Abus to Zefal via manufacturers such as Pashley, Fuji and Adriatica.

championships golf course, all year driving range, luxurious club house and a stunning environment replete with gliding swans and bouncing bunnies! The final hole, set on an island, attracts golfers from across Poland and beyond. ul.

manor house / hotel, the Sobienie golf course was designed by the British Ford Golf Course Design Group and touts 18 holes spread across a highly scenic course approximately 40 kilometers from central Warsaw. ul. Sobienie Szlacheckie

Galeria Sztuki Rowerowej Glorious bikes, many of them vintage, and many of them in colors that’ll make you the talk of the town. ul.

Various locations, wygodnyrower.pl

Golfowa (Jabłonna), firstwarsawgolf.com

6 (Sobienie Jeziory), sobieniekrolewskie.pl

Widok 10

Centrum Golf Fulfill the dream of playing at Pebble Beach or Torrey Pines by booking a tee-time on one of Centrum Golf’s HD golf simulators. ul. Burakowska 15,

Golf Parks Poland Keen golfers (all ages) can perfect their swing at this friendly, well equipped driving range, whilst beginners can opt for professional individual lessons or beginner group programs in English or Polish.

centrumgolf.pl

ul. Vogla 19, golfparkspoland.pl

First Warsaw Golf & Country Club Features a par 72, 18-hole

Sobienie Królewskie Golf & Country Club Set around a 19th century

cycling stores & service

Plumbike More of a bike boutique than a standard old bike store.

Assembled by hand by the Plumbike team, the models here are beautiful, and range from choppers to cruisers in eye-catching colors. ul.

Puławska 67/69, plumbike.eu

golf

gyms Artis Wellness Club Found in Royal Wilanów, this state-of-the-art gym boasts the latest technological advances in personal fitness, as well as a massive program of courses that range from group cycling and yoga to Zumba and body combat. ul.

Klimczaka 1 (Royal Wilanów), artisclub.pl

BEST OF WARSAW ANNUAL EDITION

The Insider’s Best of Warsaw awards have become one of the leading food and drink events in Poland, which is why for the first time ever we’ve published a separate bumper issue detailing the cream of the crop.

Available all year round for zł. 20, look for it in selected media outlets, or contact us direct at: insider@warsawinsider.pl

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Health & Beauty Listings Holmes Place Energy High standard equipment, personal training and group classes. Six month membership available for approx. zł.

200 per month, though prices are subject to change. Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (C.H. Arkadia), ul.

Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), holmesplace.pl

Holmes Place Premium Three ‘premium locations’, with the Hilton and Regent branches housing a 25-meter pool. Sauna and steam room facilities are available in all all three, as are a varied timetable of classes plus personal training. ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel), ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), holmesplace.pl

Little Gym Targeted at children, expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructorto-child ratio, original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. ul. Bruzdowa 56, thelittlegym.pl

McFit A 2,000 sq/m studio that

utilizes the latest technology as well as ‘cyber training’ programs. Open 24/7, with membership from zł. 89 per month. ul. Świętokrzyska 3

49 (InterContinental), riverview. com.pl

experience utilizing talented staff and top-quality products.

hair & beauty

ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent, level -1), hair-a-porter.pl

(corner of Nowy Świat), mcfit.com

Barberian Academy & Barber Bartek Janusz Salon The staff here takes a nononsense approach to cutting hair – it goes along with the minimalist chic interiors of the place. ul. Mokotowska 19

The Hermit Barber Shop You know those London barber shops you see in 1930s film reels? That’s Hermit, a thrilling throwback right down to the barber’s pole and checkered flooring. But don’t be fooled, this is as upmarket as it gets, with top quality products and even some 16-year-old whisky with which to pair the experience. Pl. Bankowy 1,

Quantum Fitness A place of quiet, understated luxury, equipment is state-ofthe-art and complemented by expert trainers at the peak of their game. This is the full 24-carat gym experience. ul.

Piękna 15, quantumpiekna.pl

Ride Warsaw Group cycling classes overseen by a team of Englishspeaking instructors. This is not a leisurely Sunday pedal, but a high energy workout with a banging soundtrack and constant interaction. ul.

Karolkowa 30, ridewarsaw.com

RiverView Wellness Centre Top-class facilities and equipment, private instructors and small classes. The view from the highest pool in Europe offers a glorious panorama of the city and is almost worth the membership fee alone.

Annual prices begin from around zł. 4,000. ul. Emilii Plater

w W a r s a www.city-tour.com.pl

Yellow Double-Decker Bus

Invites you to experience a panoramic tour of tourist attractions of the capital of Poland, Warsaw, in a relaxing and comfortable way.

Traveling over the course of approximately 1,5 hour, a double-decker bus will take you past many beautiful and interesting places of Warsaw, such as its interesting districts, palaces and churches, monuments and museums, parks and historical cemeteries, as well as the Jewish historical sites.

A GPS 12 language audio-guide, will give explanations and accompany you to make your ride a more adventurous, exciting and an unforgettable one.

Excellent Hop on Hop off and one trip service operates every day all year round.

5% DISCOUNT with this ad

Line approved by municipal authorities.

www.city-tour.com.pl

104 Warsaw Insider | JULY 2017

/ ul. Wilcza 72, tel. 22 828 4444, bartekjanusz.pl

+48 500 033 414

Dotyk SPA Probably the only place in Warsaw where you’ll get a facial yoga session. Going further east, treat yourself to Japanese, Polynesian or Indian massage. ul. Biały Kamień 3, tel.

22 898 7272, dotykspa.pl

Fiuu Fiuu Day Spa A wonderful quick fix salon that makes use of the latest Ericson products and other top brands. Regarded as one of the top ladies day spas in the country. ul. Mokotowska 48

thehermit.pl

Izar Repechage A gorgeous city spa which a range of treatments for the whole body. ul. Moliera 1, repechage.net.pl Komiks Here’s the place to make that ultimate fashion statement and get the latest on-trend look. Henna art, manicure / pedicure also offered. ul. Radna 12, komiks.waw.pl

Hair a Porter A staunch favorite among the ex-pat crowd, Hair a Porter offer the ultimate hair

La Perla Here, the staff is adept and certified at a range of

Health & Beauty Listings innovative treatments: from the non-invasive Bella Contour treatment to the Body Tite and Body Jet treatments that use the latest surgical procedures to slim and tighten. multiple locations inc. Łowicka 21B/1, Wilcza 22A, Hilton Hotel, klinikalaperla.pl

ouch!

DEPILACJA WOSKIEM

Ouch!

Experts in waxing, Ouch! aim their offer at ‘busy women looking for express treatments with lasting effects who, at the same time, appreciate a sense of intimacy’. ul. Belwederska 32; ul. Bonifraterska 8, ouch.pl

PARDON MY FRENCH

manicure pedicure

Pardon My French Manicure and pedicure treatments with high quality lacquers and an awareness of global trends: if you need an endorsement, Paul McCartney visited when he was in Poland! ul. Belwederska 32; Bonifraterska 8; ul. Mokotowska 56, pardonmyfrench.pl

The Pedicure Place A luxury pedi/manicure clinic with room for 10. All the latest OPI varnishes and over 200 colors guarantee you’ll find the latest in styling and nail care. ul. Pokorna 2, pedicureplace.pl

Quantum Clinic Using first class, pioneering methods and technology, the Quantum Clinic surpasses the norms that Warsaw has become used to. ul. Piękna 15, quantumpiekna.pl

sport

the air. Wspólna Droga 1 (Mory), flyspot.com

Frogs & Co. Warsaw’s only social rugby club welcomes all: supporters, players, young, old, men and women. The rugby is taken seriously, and so too is the social side. warsawfrogs.com Hangar 646 Hangar 646 touts 50 interlinked trampolines, a ping pong zone, ball pools and even a snowboard slide where visitors hurtle down a ramp before splashing down on an inflatable mattress. ul. Wał

an Olympic swimming pool, recreational pool complete with artificial river, slides and tubes, a Russian ‘banya’ zone, not to mention other attractions like bowling and squash courts. ul. Merliniego 4, wodnypark.com.pl

yoga & pilates Astanga Yoga Studio Established in 2005, this studio specializes in ashtanga and also offers physiotherapy, Hawaiian massage, reflexology and kalari chikitsa. ul.

Gałczyńskiego 4, astanga.pl

Miedzeszyński 646, hangar646.pl

BGZ Arena / Velodrome Bring a cycling helmet and you too can take a spin around the velodrome in Pruszków.

Bike hire possible, with spins priced at approximately at zł. 40 per hour. ul. Andrzeja 1 (Pruszków), bgzarena.com

Fly Spot Ever wanted to know what it’s like to fly? As in really fly??

Find out inside a vertical wind tunnel where fans whirring at a speed of up to 310 km/hr will send you shooting up in

swimming Aquapark Wesolandia ul. Wspólna 4 (Wesoła), wesolandia.pl Features a recreational

pool, kids pool and a 25 meter pool for more serious swimmers. Also on-site, a water tube, Jacuzzi, tennis and fitness facilities.

Wodny Park When looking for a pool, most look no further: on-site find

Bikram Yoga A new, modern studio equipped with lockers, showers and the requisite hot room. Practitioners of all levels – from newbie to old hand – are welcome. Al. Jana Pawła II 61, bikram.pl

Diamond Pilates The first professional Pilates studio in Poland continues to be the pacesetter. Offers group and individual training, the latest equipment, dietary consultations and workshops

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Services Listings for instructors. ul. Powsińska

Warsaw

between-us.eu

106, diamondpilates.pl

ul. Kościelna 12, tel. 22 531 6000, mamaison.com

Boutique B&B

Marriott

ul. Smolna 14/6, tel. 22 829 4800, bedandbreakfast.pl

Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 6306, warsawmarriott.com

Chmielna Guesthouse

AGS Warsaw

Regent Warsaw Hotel

ul. Chmielna 13, tel. 22 828 1282, chmielnabb.pl

ul. Julianowska 37, Piaseczno, agsmovers.com

ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, reservations@regentwarsaw.com, regent-warsaw.com

car rental

CorstJens Worldwide Movers Group

accommodation 5-Star Hotels Bellotto ul. Senatorska 13/15, tel. 22 829 6444, hotelbellotto. pl

The Rialto Boutique Hotel ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8700, rialto.pl

Bristol Hotel

Sheraton

ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1000,

ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6100, sheraton.pl

Sixt Rent a Car Sofitel Warsaw Victoria

ul. Arabska 9, tel. 22 511 1550, 22 511 1555, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel.

22 650 2031, sixt.pl

ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8011, sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com

Trust Rent a Car

Westin

ul. Marynarska 14, tel. 22 843 0580, trustrentacar.pl

ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555 / 800 44 11 482, hilton.com

Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, westin.pl

InterContinental ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, warsaw.intercontinental. com

b&b Between Us Bed & Breakfast

Mamaison Le Régina Hotel

Fredrick Chopin Airport, tel. 22 650 4872, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 575 6583, Reservations: tel. 801 120 010,

ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 553 8700, info@h15ab.com,

Hilton Warsaw

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ul. Bracka 20, tel. 22 8285417,

arkpol.com

ul. Nowa 23, Stara Iwiczna, corstjens.com

Avis

H15 Boutique

h15ab.com

‘door-to-door’ movals, with packaging, storage and customs clearance part of the deal. ul. Słowikowskiego 27,

relocation companies Arkpol Specialists in international

Move One Relocations Also immigration assistance, fine art shipping, pet transport and consulting services. ul. Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 8160, moveonerelo.com

Relo Planet International, domestic and office removals, corporate and individual relocations, fine art shipping, storage, insurance, as well as a full range of assistance services (immigration, etc.). ul. Batalinou Platerówek 3, reloplanet.com

Museum Listings museums

crossing the road to ordering a drink in a bar. Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, niewidzialna.pl

Copernicus Science Centre Interactive, witty and surprising, Copernicus allows visitors to experience an earthquake, blast recyclable objects into space and become a mystery cracking detective. ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, kopernik. org.pl

CSW Situated in a baroque-style castle the center hosts artists from all over the world.

The on-site bookshop is of particular interest for artists and intellectuals. ul. Jazdów 2, csw.art.pl

Dom Spotkań z Historią The History Meeting House wins points for frequently excellent exhibitions that cover topics such as ‘rebuilding Warsaw’ and ‘Socialist Realist architecture.’ It won’t take longer than twenty minutes to peruse whatever exhibition is on, but it’s still a very worthwhile diversion and one of the city’s top secrets. ul.

Karowa 20, dsh.waw.pl

The Fryderyk Chopin Museum in Warsaw Recognized as one of the most hi-tech museums in Europe, computer chip tickets allow visitors the chance to personalize the museum experience as never before.

Over 5,000 objects are present, among them Chopin’s pocket watch, his last piano, a lock of hair and even his death mask.

Ostrogski Palace, ul. Okólnik 1, chopin.museum

Jewish Historical Institute Officially opened in 1947 the Jewish Historical Institute was created to serve as an archive of Jewish culture in Warsaw. It contains artwork, historical artifacts and important documents from the city’s rich Jewish past. ul.

Tłomackie 3/5, jhi.pl

Królikarnia The young curator has decided to show some forgotten treasures from the rich archives of the National Museum. The gallery also hosts more contemporary works, such as those by Nicolas Grospierre and Agnieszka Polska. ul. Puławska 113A, krolikarnia.mnw.art.pl

Anielewicza 6, polin.pl

National Museum Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars. Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw. art.pl

The Neon Museum This amazing project brings together the neon lights that once illuminated the city.

Among the collection are 35 landmark signs, many of which date from the 60s and 70s. ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org

Museum of Communist Life Run by the excellent Adventure Warsaw tour guide company, the Museum of Communist Life brings together aspects of communist life through dioramas that present typical living quarters of the time and a milk bar.

Displays are numerous and quirky, and include a restored Saturator machine, a collection of commie hoovers, not to mention medals from the owner’s own family. ul. Glucha (opposite Soho Factory), tel. 606 225 525, adventurewarsaw.com

Museum of Warsaw The granddaddy of Warsaw museums is back open after a massive five-year refit. For details, see p. 90. Rynek Starego Miasta 28/42, mhw.pl

Invisible Exhibition Nothing challenges the sense of sight more than a total lack of it. Confused? Head to the Invisible Exhibition to learn first-hand the challenges faced by the blind.

This includes everything from

highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec synagogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical inter-war Jewish Warsaw street. ul.

Polin - Museum of the History of Polish Jews Composed of eight galleries, each covers a different stage of local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day. Covering 4,000 sq/m,

Park Miniatur Although the park consists of only eight 1:25 scale models of some of the most beautiful and important buildings from Warsaw’s past, the zł. 12 admission is certainly worth it. Brilliant details abound in this Lilliputian world, with helpful English explanations accompanying the models. ul. Senatorska 38, pl.miniaturymazowieckie.com

Poster Museum in Wilanów With a collection that touches the 55,000 mark, here’s the biggest poster museum in the world – and also the original.

Art spans the period from 1892 till 2002, and while the majority is Polish orientated works on display also include those by Dali and Warhol. ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 10/16, postermuseum.pl

The Royal Castle in Warsaw Meticulously restored after WWII, highlights inside include the lavishly restored 18th

century royal apartments with 22 paintings by Bernardo Bellotto (known as Canaletto), the Senators’ Chamber in which the Constitution of the Third of May was signed, the biggest collection of oriental rugs in Europe in the tin-roofed palace and two remarkable Rembrandt paintings. Pl. Zamkowy 4, zamek-krolewski.pl

The Warsaw Amber Museum Part of Bursztynek, a dedicated amber shop, has been turned into a curious museum detailing the history of amber. Rynek Starego Miasta 4/6, bursztynek.co

Warsaw Rising Museum Cope with the crowds to discover the definitive story of the 1944 Uprising. Exhibits range from a full-size replica of a Liberator plane, to a sewer beneath the cinema screen and a slice of bread preserved from 1944. And don’t miss the ‘City of Ruins’, a five minute 3D film which takes you on an aerial journey over devastated Warsaw. For panoramic views of Warsaw check the view tower. ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl Wola Museum An unexpectedly amazing museum that’s been turned around thanks to its ambitious, young staff. Once a dank, dusty space, the reinvention includes ‘the room of one object’, whose single exhibit changes each month. ul. Srebrna 12, mhw.pl Zachęta National Art Gallery Featuring in the collection are works by Toulouse-Lautrec, Cezanne, Ernst and Picasso, as well as luminaries of the Polish art scene such as Tadeusz Kantor, Alina Szapocznikow, Katarzyna Kozyra and Zbigniew Libera. Pl. Małachowskiego 3, zacheta.art.pl warsawinsider.pl

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Warsaw Guide

THE ESSENTIALS...

Cut through the chaff and time manage your visit as effectively as possible.

COMMUNISM

A full tour of Stalin’s Palace of Culture is a must: the basements are wild and the viewing terrace unimpeachable. Check the more ambient side to Communism in the Neon Museum and then visit The Museum of Life Under Communism: it’s tiny, but humorous, eccentric and highly informative. While you’re there, squeeze into a knackered militia wagon and take one of their commie-themed tours. Equally weird, check out a former nuclear bunker by visiting the once top secret Obieky Alfa (obiektalfa.pl).

MODERN WARSAW

COPERNICUS SCIENCE CENTRE

Wonder amid romping kids and whirring machines in the Copernicus Science Centre, and after take in the glorious dusk views on the rooftop garden of the University Library.

Across the river, the state-of-the-art National Stadium conducts regular tours, while Dom Kereta – dubbed the world’s narrowest house – holds monthly open days (fb.com/ domkereta).

ART THE OLD…

The Old Town, raised from the rubble after WWII, is symbolic of this ‘phoenix city’, and fully deserving of its UNESCO listed status. In the square, the Museum of Warsaw is a great primer to the city. To soak in the extravagances of Poland’s imperial years, then Łazienki Park is essential, as is a visit to the Wilanów Palace: frequently termed as being ‘the Polish Versailles’, the gardens are at their blooming best in summer.

Elsewhere, kids and adults alike enjoy the Park Miniatur, a magical assembly of scale models of former landmarks.

WWII

Memories of WWII still hang heavy.

Learn about the 1944 Warsaw Uprising at The Rising Museum: it’s deservedly

108 Warsaw Insider | JULY 2017

rated as among the most important cultural institutions in the country. The Old Town’s ‘Heritage Centre’ documents the destruction of the city, while three separate museums, Pawiak, Szucha and Katyń, cover equally somber moments in Poland’s dark history.

Serious art lovers flock to the National Museum for its determined presentation of art through the ages. The Zachęta, the Modern Art Museum and CSW are more alternative with captivating exhibitions that thrill non-conformists. That said, some of the city’s best art is found on its walls: Praga and Muranów are particularly known for their giant wall murals.

JEWISH WARSAW

PEOPLE

Though largely flattened, the former Jewish Ghetto contains numerous memorials, among them the Umschlagplatz installation that commemorates the deportations to Treblinka. The one synagogue that survived (Twarda 6) is the center of local Jewish life, while the innovative Polin (named the European Museum of the Year in 2016) covers all aspects of this nation’s complex and often fraught Jewish history.

Chopin, the city’s favorite son, looms large across Warsaw. The museum dedicated to his memory amazes by the breadth of its scope, while the Chopin concerts held each Sunday in Łazienki are a local rite of passage.

Now reopened following a thorough refit, the Marie Curie Museum in New Town does a splendid job of remembering the world’s most famous female science boffin.

Warsaw Guide

THE BUZZ WHAT’S HOT THIS SUMMER? In terms of ‘see and be scene’ nowhere comes close to south central Warsaw: Pani Wina look set to redefine local wine bar culture, while the hip Bar Pacyfik is the story of the summer. If you’re beautiful, and expect the rest of Warsaw to recognize that, then check into Ćma.

Now leading the kitchen at La Maison, chef Arkadiusz Wilamowski has made it clear he hasn’t returned to PL for an easy paycheck: targeting a Michelin star, early signs suggest this restaurant stands a good chance of earning exactly that.

Praga has regained its cool: this summer, head to the weekend Otwarta Ząbkowska street fair, peruse the Zoo Market, or get saxed up at Soho Factory’s jazz fest.

NOCNY MARKET

Rather than spending their evening boxed up in a dark, frigid room, Warsaw’s filmgoers are heading outside to the open-air cinemas that have popped up like pimples: Pl. Europejski, Lolek, ISKRA, and Prochownia are a few to seek out. Best known though, that’s Filmowa Stolica (screenings across town).

Feranja’s mission to change the world has gained steam with the opening of a new address on Andersa 6. Lauded by many as the best barber shop in Poland, they’ve swapped their previous digs for a massive space featuring an adjoining café – Fat White. The June launch party, and the hairy beauties in attendance, suggests Andersa could yet become the street of tomorrow.

You don’t need us to tell you that the weekend means the Wisła: slanted towards the new Varsovian, the multifaceted appeal means that the revamped left-bank is about more than just the party.

Warsaw’s mania for ‘doing things together’ becomes particularly pronounced in the heat: during the day, the omnipresent Targ Śniadaniowy is a weekend must. Come the evening, and last year’s smash hit, the Nocny Market, shows no sign of fading: high in energy, it’s the place to check out the latest street food trends, get a tattoo, swig craft beer and generally mingle with the cool kids.

O T WA R TA Z Ą B KO W S K A

The trickle has become a torrent – the food of the summer is set to be Mexican meaning everything from the arrival of street-style taco shacks by the river, to more permanent joints in the center. warsawinsider.pl

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Green As Grass

Though less venerated than Warsaw’s other parks, Skaryszewski is certainly no less storied… BY STUART DOWELL

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he lie that Warsaw is a grey city is truly exposed when the solstice guides us into the lazy months of summer. Like Gaia herself, the metropolis becomes a single, natural organism, growing a fur of trees and greenery. While Royal Łazienki reigns on Warsaw’s left-bank, Skaryszewski Park can claim to be Warsaw’s right lung. Reached by the Poniatowski ventricle, it spreads over 58 hectares, bordered to the west by Warsaw’s sporting heart the National Stadium, to the south by the intellectual brain of Saska Kępa, to the north by the purifying waters of Lake Kamionkowski, and to the east by the old Kamionek election field.

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Robed in a gown of over 280 species of trees and bushes, the park’s network of gently curving paths guides strollers to a charming waterfall, two lakes cloaked by foliage, a rose garden, a tennis club and an amphitheatre. The park is also home to the football team Drukarz Warszawa.

Before the park was established in 1905, the land was used to graze cows. At that time, work was underway to connect Warsaw’s two banks by today’s Poniatowski Bridge, then named after Tsar Nicholas II. For the city’s planners, it was clear that such an illustriously named river span couldn’t end at a field full of cattle.

Thus, the task to create a city park befitting of an emperor was given to Warsaw’s chief gardener, Franciszek Szanior (also responsible for Ujazdowski Park and the regeneration of Krasińskich Park).

For history buffs, the park is packed with interest. A memorial stone to the crew of a British B-24 Liberator that crashed in the area on the night of 14 August 1944 bringing aid to the Home Army fighters sits in the rose garden.

The memorial was unveiled

by Margaret Thatcher in 1988 accompanied by the only survivor of the crash. At the main entrance, a granite monument to the seven Poles who perished in the September 11 attacks in New York was unveiled in 2002 assisted

by New York police officers. Also at the entrance once stood the Monument to Red Army Soldiers, originally built over a grave of twenty-six Russian soldiers killed in 1944 during fighting in the area.

The bodies were later moved to the Red Army Mausoleum and the monument relocated to its current position further into the park. The plinth has been graffitied several times with anti-Russian slogans and there are currently plans to remove the monument completely under new anti-communism laws.

When you leave, don’t forget to say goodbye to the park’s patron: Ignacy Paderewski, the pianist and composer, politician and spokesman for Polish independence: his bust sits near the entrance.

PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

Looking Back

ENTER THE WORLD OF ROOM 13

ROOM13 is the heart of the club basin at the legendary

Mazowiecka Street. Perfect location in the center of Warsaw, modern interiors combined with historic architecture and top-class music - all these qualities make Room13 the best choice on the Warsaw’s club map.

The club is located in the 19th century tenement house in the heart of Warsaw. The unconventional club has been adapted to represent the interiors of the prewar company’s premises.

Hours: Thursday - Sunday 22:00 until last guest