Warsaw Insider May 2017 #249

Warsaw The Capital’s Original City Magazine Since 1996

MAY 2017

249 05/2017

INDEKS 334901 ISSN:1643-1723

#

zł.10

(VAT 8% included)

The Night of Waiting in Line

Moving?

ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER ALEXANDRE BIRMAN ANYA HINDMARCH AQUAZZURA BALMAIN BUSCEMI CASADEI CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN FRANCESCO RUSSO GIANVITO ROSSI HERVE LEGER ISABEL MARANT KENZO KOTUR MAISON MICHEL ONE TEASPOON SELF – PORTRAIT TOD’S TORY BURCH VALENTINO VICTORIA BECKHAM YVES SALOMON

Moliera 2 tel.: 228277099, www.Moliera2.com

MAY 2017 Editor-in-chief Alex Webber

insider@warsawinsider.pl Art Director Kevin Demaria insider@warsawinsider.pl Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com

Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

INFRONT

REVIEWS

FEATURES

PARTNER NEWS

Opener 9 News 10 Exhibition 12 We’re Talking About 14

Interview: Joanna Rajkowska 16 Night of the Museum 18 Museum Vicinity Pub Crawl 28

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Krem 31 Nocny Market 32 Bez Tytułu 34 Corona 36 The Latest Marketpalce News From The Warsaw Insider’s Friends and Advertisers 38

LISTINGS

Restaurants 40 Cafes & Wine Bars 72 Nightlife 75 Shopping 80 Family 84 Health & Beauty 89 In the City 91

INBACK

Map 94 Looking Back 96

Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com Business Development Manager A. Julita Pryzmont jpryzmont@valkea.com ey Account Manager K Agata Sicińska asicinska@valkea.com ey Account Manager K Piotr Pawłowski ppawlowski@valkea.com Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com Subscription 12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland.

Orders can be placed through: insider@warsawinsider.pl Printed by Zakład Poligraficzny TECHGRAF Tel. (17) 225-28-69 VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies.

All information ©2017 Warsaw Insider.

on the cover The annual Night of Museums – a.k.a.

The Night of Long Lines – takes place on May 20th, hence the house artist’s premonitory vision.

(Illustration by Michał Miszkurka)

PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT

EVERY ONCE IN A WHILE

Warsaw shuffles the pack and draws a couple of aces: with national holidays falling on Monday and Wednesday that’s exactly what the start of May is beginning to feel like. Yet while most people will be using this opportunity to take the whole week off work and skive off to the country or the coast, it’s a wise man that chooses against joining this exodus. If there’s a magic time to be in Warsaw, it’s when the rest of the city isn’t: to find such stillness and solitude in a major European capital is surreal and dreamlike and eerily enchanting – you’ll do well to wallow in it, for the rest of the month promises maximum action. For starters, it’s the month that Warsaw rediscovers the urge to go out – the rebirth of the Nocny Market is evidence of that. Most of all though, it’s the month in which Warsaw gets cultural. The latest installment of the Night of Museums falls on May 20th, as good a reason as any that we dedicate this issue to the museums and institutions that you’ll need to know. As ever, hope you enjoy it and see you next time...

Contributors: Stuart Dowell Maria Mileńko Michał Miszkurka Ed Wight

CASADEI CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN MEN FAY GIANVITO ROSSI MEN KENZO MONCLER ONE TEASPOON RALPH LAUREN TOD’S TORY BURCH VALENTINO VICTORIA BECKHAM BURBERRY CHILDREN DSQUARED2 KIDS KENZO KIDS MONCLER KIDS

this month...

RUN

Constitution Run 3 May, 11:00 @ Agrykola The 26th edition of this annual 5K run celebrates the 1791 Constitution of the Third of May. Expected to draw thousands, the route passes Łazienki, parliament and Ujazdowskie Castle.

FESTIVAL

Beautiful Hens!

6-7 May @ Powsin Botanical Gardens Just about the most bizarre festival of the lot will see Poland’s sexiest hens assemble in the botanical gardens in Powsin. The program includes a beauty competition, guided walks of the park and special events for kids.

FESTIVAL

Warsaw Tattoo Days 6-7 May @ ul. Mińska 65 Attracting over 200 tattoo artists from home and abroad, this tattoo festival will also host a fashion show by Fred Kyrel, an extreme motorbike display called The Globe of Death and a concert

by The Analogs. For further info, see: tattoodays.pl Tickets from zł. 34 @ ebilet.pl

CARS

Oldtimer Festival 13-14 @ Al. Katowicka 62, Nadarzyn Poland’s biggest vintage car show will

host auctions, renovation zones, conferences and seminars. The exhibition of 1,000 iconic vehicles will also be complimented by a ‘Youngtimer’ exhibition of flashy new cars.

For info, see: oldtimerwarsaw.com

FILM

David Lynch Weekend 12-14 May @ Kino Elektronik, ul. Zajączka 7 As it says on the tin: anticipate a weekend of David Lynch films, including several lesser-known short features such as Six Men Getting Sick, The Amputee and The Dumbland Series.

FILM

Jewish Motifs Film Festival 24-28 May @ Kino Muranów, ul. Andersa 5 Now in its 13th year, the Jewish Motifs Festival aims to ‘propagate awareness of centuries of Jewish tradition through the medium of film.’

For details, see: jewishmotifs.org.pl

CONCERT

Vanessa-Mae 30 May @ Towar, ul. Łazienkowska 6A Vanessa-Mae arrives in Poland with several million album sales to her name.

Regarded as one of the top violinists on the planet, her show is widely expected to sell-out.

Tickets from zł. 199 @ ticketpro.pl

BROUGHT TO YOU BY THE WARSAW AMBER MUSEUM

Night of Museums

An amber adventure awaits our visitors on this special night! Discover for yourself the tricks once used by ancient amber craftsmen in a workshop led by Eryk Popkiewicz, before making your own amber bracelet alongside contemporary amber masters. After, explore ever corner of our exhibition and allow yourself to be sucked into the sights, sounds and smells of a 40-million year old amber forest!

We’ll be waiting for you on May 20th from 6 p.m. onwards.

THE WARSAW AMBER MUSEUM Rynek Starego Miasto 4/6, tel. 506 007 685, biuro@muzeumbursztynu.com, www.muzeumbursztynu.com

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RICO’S CONCEPT is situated in a famous tenement house called the ‘Messal Baths’.

The name stems from Lucyna Messal, a famous opera singer, dancer and actress from the 1920s.

An incredible atmosphere is guaranteed thanks to an interior filled with meticulous old details. Most important of all, however, is our seasonal cuisine which is based on the highest quality produce.

Our secret is experience, passion and innovation...

GOT DIM SUM?

PASSION, INSPIRATION, INNOVATION

Chef: He Yongchao

Ul. Pańska 85 tel. 512 671 756, 22 253 30 30 panska85.com.pl

Few dishes surmise the beauty of Chinese food like Dim Sum. Thought to originate in the Canton region of China, these pouches of goodness have grown to become one the planet’s favorite comfort foods. At Pańska 85 we appreciate people take the quality of Dim Sum seriously, which is why we have our own specialist chef assigned to this station.

in

What’s hot, what’s not: the faces and stories trending around town WOLA GASWORKS IN NUMBERS

240,000 Cubic meters

The daily amount of gas each tank once produced

1978 The year

The gas tanks closed

1939 The year

The gas tanks were heavily destroyed

1888 The year

The gas tanks were completed

1978 The year

The gas tanks closed

PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

SUCH A GAS

Another major schism has appeared in Warsaw’s fraught relationship with private real estate developers. This time, central to the row are two historic structures that once supplied the city with gas. In a lawsuit filed in April the Mayor of Wola, Krzysztof Strzałkowski, accused the owners of allowing the buildings to deteriorate under their stewardship and has sought to seize control to protect them from further neglect. In a curt response, the legal owners have stated their unwillingness to voluntarily surrender the property and have claimed that restoration work is already underway on their own behest.

Despite this refute, many locals remain unconvinced and suspect that the buildings are being purposefully allowed to languish as part of a deeper plot to see them declared unsafe and ultimately demolished. With this slice of Wola commonly identified as being part of the city’s vision as a future Central Business District, their feelings that the plot will instead be sold off and used for skyscrapers are not the paranoid fears that they may first appear to be.

Known as the Wola Colosseum, the gasworks date from the 19th century and are considered to be one of Warsaw’s greatest secrets among urban explorers. Abandoned since the 70s, the twin towers were once mooted to become the site of the Rising Museum. Plans to transform these brick rotundas into luxury apartments and offices have repeatedly stalled.

1856 The year

Gas lights first debuted in Warsaw

1,200 The number...

Of people who used to work at the gasworks

48

Percent of Warsaw

Once had its gas supplied by these tanks

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Floors

The height of the gas tanks www.warsawinsider.pl

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inFront

news

Off The Wall

The 74th anniversary of the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising found itself marked in April in now familiar style: that is, via the distribution of 100,000 paper daffodils. The action was complimented by a temporary mural painted close to Metro Centrum showing the faces of insurgents amid bursts of daffodil petals. Symbolic of the rebellion, the daffodil is inexorably linked to local hero and Ghetto Uprising veteran Marek Edelman who used to leave bouquets of the flower at the foot of the Monument to the Heroes of the Ghetto.

Warsaw’s Temple of Divine Providence has fought off close competition from a church in Toruń to land the not-so-coveted title of Poland’s worst building of 2016. Located in the Wilanów district, the Temple claimed 27% of the votes in a poll conducted by the architectural website Bryla.

Commonly likened to a giant lemon squeezer, the house of worship found itself blasted for its out-sized dimensions and enormous cost.

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In Memoriam

Magdalena Abakanowicz, the internationally acclaimed sculptor, has died aged 86 following a long battle with illness. Best known for producing giant headless figures from fiber, she was widely hailed as Poland’s leading visual artist.

Born in Falenty, south-west of Warsaw, examples of her awardwinning work can be found across the world, including Chicago’s Grant Park, the National Gallery of Art in Washington and Poznań’s Citadel Park.

Going Green?

An April Fools’ joke by Wawalove left locals red-faced after the news portal announced that the government had taken Pl. Zamkowy off the national register of monuments to sell it off to the lowestbidding real estate firm. “What does the city need more of,” the website quoted one developer as saying, “trees and car parks – that’s why we’re proposing a wooden car park.” Initial outrage turned to chuckles as readers realized they’d been pranked.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP; KEVIN DEMARIA, SHUTTERSTOCK, ED WIGHT, SHUTTERSTOCK

Temple of Doom

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inFront

exhibition

BLAST TO THE PAST Inside Poland presents over 100 shots taken by

the award-winning photographer Marian Schmidt during his travels in Poland. Mainly dating to the ’70s, the images recall the atmosphere of the People’s Republic whilst presenting the reality of those times. “I try to capture the actual moment when my subject is living through an inner experience,” says Schmidt, “I seek true emotions and it’s only then that I press the shutter.” The exhibition runs until June 18th.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY MARIAN SCHMIDT COURTESY OF DSH

Dom Sptkań z Historią ul. Karowa 20, dsh.waw.pl

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inFront

city

onset of spring brings with it a number WE’RE TALKING ABOUT The of dynamite events to keep an eye out for...

GARDEN CLASSIC

First organized in 1959, the Sunday piano concerts that occur under the shadow of the Chopin monument in Łazienki Park have become one of the city’s proud calling cards.

Listen to musicians both established and upcoming recite works from Chopin’s oeuvre in a pristine setting that the composer himself would surely approve of. With each performance drawing an estimated 3,000 people, get there early to bag the best seats.

Every Sunday from May 14th @ noon and 4 p.m.

It won’t be all quiet on the Warsaw front for the May holidays. May 1st will see the Multimedia Fountain Park between the Old Town and river reactivated after its annual winter snooze. The choreographed water display will be paired with synchronized audio and visual displays and is set to draw hundreds, and possibly thousands of people. Titled the Return of the Basilisk, organizers promise this year’s relaunch will be ‘colorful, blazing and even a bit spooky!’

May 1, 2 & 3 @ 9 p.m.

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PHOTOGRAPHS SHUTTERSTOCK

WATER WORLD

The recently opened restaurant and bar Mokotowska 69 is a perfect place for those who enjoy refined food and excellent wine.

The restaurant offers classic Polish dishes with a modern twist, delicious steaks and a wide range of wine from all over the world.

Mokotowska 69 was designed for those who enjoy Polish cuisine and those who would like to try classic Polish dishes with a modern twist, such as Mazurian crayfish in rowan brandy cream sauce, roasted catfish with pearl barley and beets or roasted duck with pears and blackcurrant. The restaurant also specialises in steaks made from American Black Angus (certified prime grade by the USDA), Scottish Aberdeen Angus and the highest quality Japanese Tajima-gyu cattle, “Kobe-style”: class 5, marbling 9+. ul. Mokotowska 69, tel. (+48 22) 628 73 84 / (+48 22) 627 20 33, www.mokotowska69.pl

The restaurant and wine store Merliniego 5, located vis-à- vis the main entrance to the Warszawianka Aqua Park, is the ideal place for those who love good food and fantastic wines. Merliniego 5 specialises in seafood dishes and steaks made of American Black Angus (prime beef USDA certified), especially selected from the New York-based OTTOMANELLI & SONS butchery. The restaurant also serves steaks made of the Aberdeen Angus and top quality Japanese beef from Tajima cattle, “Kobe style” (grade 5A/BMS 9+). Further, menu offers seasonal and traditional Polish cuisine dishes. At the end of 2011, the readers of Gazeta Stołeczna granted us the prestigious title of Knajpa Roku 2011 (Eating Establishment of the Year 2011). Since 2013 we have also been listed in the Michelin Guide. ul. Merliniego 5, tel. (+48 22) 646 08 10 / (+48 22) 646 08 49, www.merliniego5.pl

ART INTERVIEW

The Public Face of Art

Apologies for asking the bleeding obvious, but tell us a little about the story behind Greetings From Jerusalem – a.k.a the Palm Tree...

The palm is the ending to a text that has never been published. Artur Żmijewski and I visited Israel in 2001. Back in Warsaw, we wanted to write about the second Intifada and the fierce conflict that we had witnessed over there. At the same time, it seemed (and still seems) that Warsaw was painfully empty without a proper Jewish community – almost as if a part of its heart was missing. Instead of making statements, I felt like something should be done – something performative. This performative gesture was originally going to be a row of palm trees running along Al. Jerozolimskie.

When the palm was unveiled in 2002 it was a watershed moment for Polish public art. Did you ever imagine that it’d still be standing 15 years on? And not just that, but considered as such a positive icon of the city?

Oh, no! The beginning of her existence (it’s a

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she in Polish!) was very difficult: she divided people dramatically. For example, I heard about one family in Kielce that didn’t eat their Christmas dinner because they had a big row about the palm tree. I had a permit that allowed the project to stand on the roundabout for just one year, so even in my wildest dreams I never expected that it would survive longer than that.

Have you had enough of talking about it?

I’ve had enough of idiots asking me about it, but intelligent questions are always welcome. At the time, the art world was completely oblivious to it. It was a partisan project and Sebastian Cichocki, a curator at MSN, told me many years later that no one was quite ready for a project that had no wider theoretical package.

Is Warsaw doing enough to allow public art to ‘happen’?

I’ve only just returned to Poland so I have no idea about now. But look, I’m running a workshop that will lead to another public project, this time by young artists on Oleandry Square. There’s a much greater energy and readiness here to make things happen in public spaces and that’s pushing the authorities to allow such expression to flourish – politics doesn’t work without pressure from below.

PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE BY ANDREW DIXON. OPPOSITE KEVIN DEMARIA

Though locally best-known for her Palm Tree project found on Rondo De Gaulle’a, Joanna Rajkowska has been prolific in her output, leading and creating projects across the world.

Now back in Poland, she talks about the world of public art...

Is there a work you are particularly proud of?

Perhaps The Peterborough Child. I’m proud of it despite the fact that it was a thorough political failure. I managed to include the most painful and intimate stories from that time, 2012, including themes of weakness, disease and feminine perspective. Those were vital strategies that worked a bit like an explosive... and then fizzled and failed. I don’t mind though, I like failures.

Does Warsaw inspire you?

Always, though I have no real idea how. I can only compare the city to like being in your own enormous studio. I see it as a stage and sometimes that stage needs a prop. The rest is just this incredible energy tht manifests itself here: the city feels like a 24-hour spectacle.

What is your artistic dream for Warsaw – what would you love to do or see happen to this city?

My artistic dream is to see less capital in this city, less sodding developers. I would pack them all inside a spaceship and then fly it into a black hole – together with priests, football fans and far-righters of any shade. Now, that’s a public project!

Do you have an underlying theme or philosophy when it comes to creating art?

Have you seen Rejs (editorial note: a cult Polish comedy from 1970 depicting the absurdities of life in the PRL)?

What is it that excites you about creating public projects?

Public projects have an intense life that feels all so... organic. It witnesses and it is witnessed. Public projects create a fantastic round-the-clock sense of theater.

What should public art achieve?

Achieve? Nothing. Really. It should be part of our lives.

As an artist, what is your preferred medium?

I choose the medium every time I start a new project. The medium comes from its own inner logic.

What’s your next project?

Orphans in Lublin: it’s a project that concerns a dark page of our current history – Poland’s refusal to accept refugees. We’ll be offering rare and precious trees for ‘adoption’, with each tree representing a Syrian orphan. By planting these trees people will be symbolically adopting these children.

For more on Joanna and her work, check the artist’s website at: rajkowska.com

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For the 14th year on the trot, the evening of May 20th will see Warsaw’s museums, galleries and assorted institutions fling their doors open as part of the city’s annual Night of Museums. Though queues – even in the unlikeliest venues – reach horrifying proportions, it’s one of those rare, heady nights where the city feels united. More than a mere celebration of culture, count the Night of Museums as a celebration of Warsaw...

NIGHT OF MUSEUMS

Copernicus Science Center Now seven years old, it says much for the Copernicus that it feels as fresh and as innovative as it was when it opened. Featuring hundreds of interactive exhibitions, it’s a place that allows young and old alike to blast objects into space, experience an earthquake or steer exploratory robots. For NoM, the planetarium will host a journey to the Trappist-1 planetary system and also reveal how boffins are attempting to communicate with extra terrestrial life.

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CULTURE NIGHT OF THE MUSEUMS

CHOPIN MUSEUM ul. Okólnik 1, chopin.museum Now reinvented as the Chopin museum, the refined 18th century Ostrogski Palace is the perfect foil for the ultra-modern content of this multi-sensory space. The personal items are enchanting – the composer’s pencil, a lock of hair and even his death mask – but the big victory here is the museum’s ability to suck visitors right back into the times of Chopin through the use of interactive sights and sounds (in fact, even smells).

LOCAL HEROES & HEROINES

Warsaw doesn’t do the most convincing job of celebrating her famous sons & daughters. But aside from Chopin and Curie, keep an eye out for museums dedicated to Cold War super spy Ryszard Kukliński, poet and playwright Adam Mickiewicz, and the priest / Solidarity martyr Jerzy Popieluszko.

MARIE SKŁODOWSKACURIE MUSUEM ul. Freta 5, en.muzeum-msc.pl With renovation work on SkłodowskaCurie’s birthplace (Freta 16) still ongoing, fans of this groundbreaking scientist must content themselves with a prowl through this temporary two-room exhibit. Brief it might be, but its not short on Curie-osities: lab equipment, her trademark black dress and even her nail file. Plans for NoM remained under wraps at press time, though the evening is likely to involve the use of Geiger counters and suchlike.

WARSODDITIES

Away from the high profile must-sees, Warsaw has a wealth of smaller museums and cultural instutions, many of which are even quirkier and eccentric than their names might otherhwise suggest...

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BREAD MUSEUM Such a museum does exist, and aside from being handed free butter croissants, visitors on the NoM can look forward to hearing anecdotes from the bakers as well as viewing the vintage collection of baking equipment.

German wartime armor to a pretty-inpink Buick Skylark – the type favored

by Elvis and Marilyn. It’s incredible in its peculiarity, with the random layout, oily smells and dark, cobwebbed corners only adding to the sense of treading somewhere special.

CAR MUSEUM Vehicles of every description from Lech Wałesa’s Volvo (with 7cm bullet-proof windows) to Gomułka’s ZIS limo, from

DIVING MUSEUM Smelling like a submariner’s sock drawer, this dank basement houses a collection of deep sea diving equipment and related

Left; a statue of Hatsune Miku, a computergenerated musican wearing traditional Polish folk dress at the State Ethnographic Museum. Right, an installation at the controversial exhibition, Późna Polskość at CSW

ART & CRAFT

Further afield, both the Poster Museum in Wilanów and Królikarnia in Mokotów promise to be well worth the visit. However, be aware that many of Warsaw’s private galleries will also open and doubtlessly offer an experience far more intimate than those offered by the giants of local art.

CSW Never too far from controversy, this contemporary gallery is famed for its frequently provocative exhibitions. For NoM there’ll be specially organized walks exploring the ‘not so obvious aspects of modern art’, and an improvised concert.

ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM Considerably revamped to meet the demands and attention-spans of the 21st century sightseer, the Ethnographic Museum is a visual pleasure that showcases colorful costumes,

fabrics and ceramics from Poland and beyond.

MUSEUM OF MODERN ART Opened just weeks ago in March, this muchpublicized gallery shall be fixing its focus on the the icon of Warsaw: the mermaid. So say the organizers: ‘it’s an exhibition that delves into the cultural connotations of Warsaw’s symbol and its universality in the context of creating a modern urban identity.’

NATIONAL MUSEUM For lovers of fine and ancient art, the National Museum is the daddy

of them all. On the NoM those who beat the inevitable queues are spoilt for choice with a number of concerts, meetings, tours and screenings lined-up.

ZACHĘTA GALLERY Regarded as one of Poland’s most prestigious galleries, the Zachęta presents what is allegedly the nation’s largest collection of contemporary art inside a pristine-looking palace. The NoM will be the last chance locals get to see the Gordon Parks exhibition ‘I Use My Camera As A Weapon’.

bits and bobs. Though English explanations are largely non-existent, it makes for a curious diversion if you’ve been put off by the queue at the nearby Rising Museum.

architecture as far as decorative stone is concerned.” The real curiosity, however, is the patch of blood left by an unknown soldier during the 1944 Warsaw Uprising.

The stain has survived to this day.

city, many of these wooden chalets will open their doors to host poetry readings, parties, discussions and other activities aimed at raising awareness of this largely unknown, artsy community.

EARTH MUSEUM Staring at bits of rock and fossils isn’t everyone’s idea of fun, but a visit here isn’t necessarily a snore. The building itself is magnificent, and considered “one of the best achievements of contemporary Polish

FINNISH HOUSES Built as a temporary solution to house architects working on the post-war reconstruction of Warsaw, the ‘Finnish’ housing estate survives to this day. A serene sanctuary in the very heart of the

FOTOPLASTIKON Thought to date from 1905, Warsaw’s Fotoplastikon is one of the few suriving peep shows in the world (no, not the saucy kind found in Amsterdam). Generating 3D perspectives from a set of 2D images,

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CULTURE NIGHT OF THE MUSEUMS

visitors peer through an eyepiece and are taken on a trip around the world while music from days yore parps away in the background.

ship and attention to detail is staggering.

Fun, futuristic and freaky this exhibition is, apparently, the only such gallery in the world.

GALLERY OF STEEL FIGURES Inspired by ‘dreams and memories’, this small venue sees scrap metal recycled to form characters from film and science fiction, showbiz and music. Think of it as Mad Max meets Madame Tussauds.

Produced on a scale of 1:1, the craftsman-

HERITAGE INTERPRETATION CENTRE This little known venue tells the complex story of Old Town’s post-war reconstruction. If the first section about Warsaw’s physical elimination is poignant, then the others do a fabulous job of sharing the optimism and alacrity that followed.

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LEGIA WARSZAWA MUSEUM Marketed as Poland’s biggest football club, this museum seeks to confirm this status with the usual spread of glinting silverware. More interesting are the weird bits and pieces: a chunk of the old floodlights, vintage match posters and a collection of paraphernalia connected to Legia’s favorite son – 80’s super star Kazimierz Deyna.

POLIN ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl When the idea for Polin, Museum of the History of Polish Jews, was born, a small blue ohel appeared on the site.

Around it, architectural renderings were placed outlining the ultimate vision. Despite the detail on these it all seemed somber and modest: not even the most fanciful imagination could have pictured quite what would rise.

Eventually opened in 2014, since then the museum has just about scooped every gong possible, most notably the top prize in last year’s edition of the European Museum of the Year awards.

The reasons for Polin’s success are manifold yet deeply rooted in the fact that this bold project has sought to examine more than the Holocaust alone. Certainly, that chapter is covered in depth – as are similarly dark episodes – but this is not a museum that solely dwells on suffering and death. Presenting 80,000 objects across a total area of 12,800 sq/m, this is a space that preaches a positive message while also covering a wide breadth of topics in a manner that engages. With so many Jewish relics lost during the Nazi maelstrom, the museum relies heavily on multimedia, however, this has gone far beyond just token touchscreens and other flashy gizmos. Where larger objects have been lost, they have been reconstructed with scintillating results: a pre-war street, a train station waiting room, and – most impressively of all – the elaborate interior of the synagogue in Gwoździec.

PARK MINIATUR A small number of 1:25 scale models of some of the most beautiful and important buildings from Warsaw’s past. Brilliant details abound in this Lilliputian world, with helpful English explanations accompanying the models.

TEATR KAMIENICA Housed in the basement of this historic theater is a superb 30 sq/m model of pre-war Warsaw: it’s magic. On NoM, the

theater will also be screening a film about the wartime destruction of the capital.

WOLA MUSEUM What was once a dreary old place has been rebooted as a one of the most forward-thinking institutions in the capital. Bringing the wider area of Wola alive, find engaging content that’s creatively presented: posters, family memorabilia, not to mention various media relating to the area.

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CULTURE NIGHT OF THE MUSEUMS

PRAGA

Though Praga isn’t necessarily known for its museums, the few that is has have achieved a cult status. In addition, numerous ind galleries and theaters will be welcoming visitors ensuring that even this gritty district will be alive on the night.

MUSEUM OF LIFE UNDER COMMUNISM Despite its small footprint and inauspicious surrounds, this tiny treasure is one of Praga’s gleaming stars. Lovingly assembled by its young owner, the museum is split into a few different sections: one devoted to state and subversive literature, and another that recreates an empty store typical of the times.

Our highlight, though, is the recreation of a commie-era apartment (complete with toxic

CITY CLASSICS

While the more devoted locals and ex-pats will already have struck these off their ‘to see’ list, Warsaw’s classic museums will all be promising a unique night to remember. ŁAZIENKI PARK Open till 2 a.m. on NoM, this pristine royal enclave will be serving up live jazz

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aftershave, lazy-eyed dolls, knackered roller skates and other quirky mementos).

NEON MUSEUM Filled with salvaged signage, this museum houses several dozen neons that once lit up the capital. The emphasis is firmly on the PRL era, a time when the nation’s best graphic designers were nutty for neon. For NoM, DJs spinning Polski hits from the 60s and 70s will add to the funky, throwback atmosphere.

MUSEUM OF PRAGA The Praga Museum tells the story of the area with such charm and simplicity that it manages to leave an unlikely impression that’s as powerful and punchy as that of the big institutions. Star billing goes to a restored Jewish prayer room and the Flying Carpet: an exhibit festooned with various trinkets and treasures that were once available for purchase from local pavement traders – dodgy hairdry-

performances, multimedia light shows and plenty of actors wandering around in period garb. Inside the Royal Picture Gallery, the ‘Exhibition of One Image’ will present Angelica Kaffmann’s masterpiece Ariadne Abandoned by Theseus.

MUSEUM OF WARSAW A fortunate few will be given the chance to preview this museum before it officially reopens later this summer. To join that lucky number, check the museum’s website.

ers, dangerous toys and the kind of gold high heels you’d see on a hooker. This modern museum is likely to be the district’s focal point during the NoM. WEDEL FACTORY Though not a museum, the Wedel chocolate factory (Zamoyskiego 24/26) has long been associated with the NoM. Expect a unique behind the scenes look at what’s been dubbed ‘the most chocolate-y place in Poland’!

ROYAL CASTLE Find all the halls and chambers flung open for the evening, and jazzy goings-on in the Kubicki Arcade below.

WILANÓW PALACE In the pipeline for NoM: a light / sound extravaganza, concerts and theater performances. This year’s theme, ‘daily life in the times of King Jan III Sobieski’, will be reflected in the aforementioned events and feature numerous actors in full costume.

UNDERGROUND DON’T LOOK UP, LOOK DOWN – SOME OF WARSAW’S GREATEST TREASURES LIE BELOW

THE GROUND...

PKIN UNDERGROUND FILTRY WATERWORKS OBIEKT ALFA Though no events had been formalized at press time, it’s highly likely that the Palace of Culture will again conduct tours around their labyrinthine basement. This underground kingdom is a treasure trove of odds and ends relating to the Palace’s construction (original laborers equipment and commie banners lie about stuffed into chambers), as well as home to outrageously retro control rooms that look like something straight from The Man From U.N.C.L.E. If you’re in luck, you might glimpse one of the 13 cats employed to keep the rodents in check.

To visit at other times, organize a tour with: creatours.pl

INSTITUTIONS

NoM is about more than just museums. A number of public and not-so public institutions will also be welcoming sightseers, enabling visitors to gain a rare look inside the corridors of power. Be aware, many of these places will require some form of photo ID.

Not unlike discovering a lost world, the vaulted, underground passages that comprise the Filtry waterworks are an eye-opening, almost mystical experience: you feel as if you’ve entered the Neo Gothic crypts of Edgar Allan Poe. Designed in the 19th century by English engineer William Lindley, the waterworks – which supply the city to this day – are one of Warsaw’s great unsung joys: besides the stunning subterranean catacombs, highlights include a 40-meter pre-war spire, and a rapid filter facility with preserved Art Deco details and reliefs. Usually locked to the public, visitors are advised to bring ID and anticipate considerable queues.

ITALIAN EMBASSY TOUR Visitors have the voyeuristic chance to see the antique interiors of this building, as well as passing through the inner courtyard, the representative halls and the Ambassador’s office.

PASTA Warsaw’s first skyscraper and the current seat of the Uprising Veterans Association will, as always, open their doors to all: the top floor viewing deck is a must.

Although plans for NoM had yet to be announced at press time, it’s odds on that this Cold War nuclear bunker will organize something for the viewing public. Constructed in the 1970s to serve as a mysterious chemical / biological research unit, this creepy installation was only declassified three years ago: allegedly, it’s from here that the nationwide medical operation would have been conducted in the event of World War Three. Though covering a floor plan of little more than 150 sq/m, the bunker stands frozen in time and brimming with sinister laboratories and stained side rooms filled with yellowing artifacts from days gone by.

PRIME MINISTER’S OFFICE Visitors are invited to marvel at the Prime Minister’s office, the Council of Ministers conference room and even receive a short lesson in diplomatic protocol.

REGIONAL COURT OF WARSAW Specific events include bomb disposal demonstrations and a staging of famous criminal cases. Even more exciting, visitors will also learn how cops escort particularly dangerous crooks into court.

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CULTURE NIGHT OF THE MUSEUMS

WARSAW RISING MUSEUM ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl And so, onto the place that changed everything: opened to coincide with the 60th anniversary of the 1944 Warsaw Uprising, this institution became not only the capital’s first world-class museum, but also its most important – a position it occupies to this day. Telling the story of the Home Army’s 63-day battle to liberate the city from Nazi rule, no stone is left unturned in this enthralling and emotive exhibition.

Though the crowds and sheer scale can make navigation a challenge, it’s on the podium up there with the Palace of Culture and the Old Town as part of Warsaw’s trinity of essential sights.

Points of interest are too numerous to list, however, most agree that the life-size replica of a B-24 Liberator plane is up there with the best. So too is a claustrophobic ‘sewage tunnel’ through which visitors squeeze, getting an idea of the conditions combatants faced. The capitulation and subsequent destruction of the city is covered in heart-stopping detail, and concludes with a 3D film that takes viewers swooping over the smoldering ruins of the capital.

Guaranteed to make an impact, the depth and quality of the Rising Museum is the poignant tribute that this tragedy deserves.

REMEMBRANCE

Built on the spilled blood of its citizens, the fact that modern Warsaw exists at all is a hymn to its spirit and endurance.

Nonetheless, reminders of its 20th century woes and misfortunes are never far away...

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DULAG 121 Though much is now known about the Warsaw Uprising, the fate of the civilians driven from their homes remains rather more murky. Dulag 121, a former prison and transit camp in Pruszków, redresses the balance by documenting this grim exodus in detail.

KATYŃ MUSEUM This museum commemorates the murder of 21,000 Polish officers by the Soviets in

the spring of 1940. The massacre, which took place in Belarus, continues to cause tension between Poland and Russia to this day. Beyond its quite staggering architectural merit, the museum has done a stunning job of collecting and presenting artefacts relating to the slaughter.

MINISTRY OF EDUCATION Visitors will have the chance to peer in to the world of the current Minister of Education while also sitting behind

his desk. After, visit the basement: it’s here that the Gestapo once interrogated prisoners from Pawiak. Reenactments by historical enthusiasts are planned for the evening of the NoM. PALMIRY Between 1939 and 1941 just under 2,000 Poles were shot in the forests of Palmiry.

Aside from a serene cemetery, the area now houses a hyper-modern museum that traces the personal stories of those

that were murdered. No special events for NoM had yet been confirmed.

PAWIAK PRISON This Tsarist prison earned its notoriety during WWII when it was used as a political prison by the Nazis: estimates suggest as many as 37,000 inmates were shot here. On the NoM numerous historical groups will reenact scenes of prison life, covering such topics as ‘round-up’, ‘sabotage’ and ‘training’.

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PUB CRAWL MUSEUM VICINITY

CRAWL OF THE

Wild

Having imbibed the culture on show at the National Museum, drink something a little more powerful in the bars and clubs dotted just beyond...

PHOTOS BY ED WIGHT

Cuda Na Kiju (ul. Nowy Świat 6/12) Labels, that’s what Warsaw likes.

Everything has to be ‘the best’, ‘the biggest’ or ‘the first’. In Cuda’s case though, it really was. Opened four years back, it preempted the craft beer mania by becoming the city’s first tap bar. By God, the town realized, beer doesn’t have to leave you radiating with chemicals. Since then, the more obsessive beer boffins have hopped off to pastures new, making Cuda’s principle audience grown-up people that do proper jobs.

Machinarium (ul. Smolna 36) The wacky world of Jules Verne comes alive in Machinarium, a bar festooned with sepia diagrams of eccentric inventions.

Inspired by Victorian science fiction, it’s a sociable environment where regulars plot up at the bar to natter with the bar girls.

Warszawa Powiśle (ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B) Found in a former train ticket booth, Powiśle glows from afar like an alien spaceship from a 60s film. Once the unofficial seat of Warsaw hipsterdom, the crowd has normalized a little though not by much – there’s outrageous facial hair and tight trousers in abundance, but so too a few crazy beers from maverick breweries.

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Czeska Baszta (Tower 22A, Most Poniatowskiego) Found in one of those Harry Potter towers that keep Poniatowski Bridge anchored down, find divey Czeska engulfed in a murky yellow glow. Boisterous but friendly, the ace up their sleeve is a brilliant assembly of Czech beer, not to mention a foggy smoking room that’s the size of a closet.

We’ve never met anyone in there before, but the shared intimacy means conversation is inevitable: within minutes we’re sloshing back beers with Tolek, a hilarious hero who regales us with stories of meeting Jagger and Richards as a wily teen in communist Poland.

No Comment (Al. 3 Maja 16/18A) The clock has ticked on meaning plans to visit other bars have been aborted. Instead, we grope our way up to No Comment, a glam club that’s clad in blue velvet. Tiny in size, it’s as if we’ve been ushered into a secret world only known by a few. Redolent of an after-hour Parisian members club, it’s a place where everyone seems to know each other, and after a couple of drinks we know them too. Hours spin by in wild whir of sound with the decadent spirit symbolic of the pleasure.

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BEST OF WARSAW ANNUAL EDITION

The Insider’s Best of Warsaw awards have become one of the leading food and drink events in Poland, which is why for the first time ever we’ve published a separate bumper issue detailing the cream of the crop.

Available all year round for zł. 20, look for it in selected media outlets, or contact us direct at: insider@warsawinsider.pl

REVIEWS RESTAURANTS 40 CAFES & WINE BARS 72 NIGHTLIFE 75 SHOPPING 80 FAMILY 84 HEALTH & BEAUTY 89 IN THE CITY 91

PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

PARIS TIME

From Provence to Paris in less than 20 minutes – possible? Not really, but there is the next best thing. First, head down to Monsieur Leon, a cafe-style venue best known for its rustic sense of simplicity and honest hospitality. After, Krem, a chic city center hangout with all the swanky, urban elegance of the 8th arrondisement. Opened by the same team behind Leon, find their latest little baby decorated with monochrome tiles, marble-topped tables, and retro-styled mirrors. A place of hip sophistication and laid-back vibe, find a menu built around French cheeseboards, raclette and super sexy baguettes.

Krem ul. Śniadeckich 18 www.warsawinsider.pl

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REVIEW NOCNY MARKET

The Right Platform

For the second year on the bounce, Warszawa Główna train station has reprised its role as the city’s space to be seen...

w

hen the Nocny Market first opened during the height of last summer, it did the impossible: by diverting revelers from the permissive pleasures of the Wisła, it demonstrated that there really was life beyond the riverfront. Mobilizing a diverse rotation of independent traders, this was more than just a hyper-cool collection of street food stalls – it became a place to get tattooed in front of leering strangers, get your whiskers waxed by a lumber-sexual barber, stock up on donuts, have a boogie and swag some indigo-colored Palace of Culture socks. It was, in a nutshell, everything that your local 30-something loves. Relaunched at the end of April, early signs suggest that the Nocny Market is ready to pick-up the baton and carry straight on from where it left off.

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Found at the bottom of a dark, pot-holed track, approaching Nocny Market has much the same element of anticipation as going to a music festival: there’s that same sense of excitement, the same crackle and buzz.

The nearer you get, the louder it is, until finally... the big reveal. Anchored around a neon-lit derelict train platform, the atmosphere is that of gentle chaos: a little like a house party where everyone’s been invited.

Certainly, it has that openness and ambiance. And at times, it’s enough to just suck in the air: full of good vibes and big beats, evenings pass in a beery blur of exotic aromas and distant cackles. Roll on the weekend.

Nocny Market ul. Towarowa 3, Fri-Sat 17:00-1:00; Sun 16:00-23:00

REVIEWS

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Clearly on the same wavelength, the kitchen crew have worked closely with the bar staff to devise pairings that maximize the tastes of both the food and drink his native French background as well as Poland’s own sway towards seasonality. In truth though, this is a free-spirited chef whose cooking can’t be assigned a box. Demonstrating a keen palette and precise touch, his menu is both complex yet logical: a considerable talent to have.

Tasting Notes Background

No street embodies ‘the spirit of now’ quite like Poznańska. The rash of bars that opened a few years back were the kick-starter, while the subsequent re-cobbling of the road and sensitive renovation of many of the buildings lent it that last big push. Up until now, however, its reputation has stemmed chiefly from its nightlife, though that’s changing with the arrival of restaurants like Bez Tytułu. Suddenly, it’s food that’s the attraction, a point that’s contributed to the Parisian-style buzz of this elegant block.

The Place

Gosh. Just stepping inside Bez Tytułu is enough to lift the mood. Connected to the Kasia Michalski Gallery to the flank, the restaurant feels like a natural extension: find contemporary art and photography set against rehabilitated brickwork while pendant bulbs cast a soft light down. It’s a venue of vibe and modernity, a point amply reflected in the management’s manifesto: “the only rule at Bez Tytułu,” they say, “is that a table is not a piece of furniture, but an invitation to a social gathering.” It’s a mission they’ve accomplished. But that’s not all. Head downstairs for a dimly-lit bar that’s got a chic, speakeasy air.

Plus points for a smoking room decorated with retro camera equipment accrued by the owners.

Chef

Frenchman Erwan Debono gained experience in France and the States before heading eastwards out here: “like everyone,” he grins, “it was all because of a woman.” Strongly influenced by the country of his birth, Debono’s menu makes much of both

Onto the important stuff. Starters include meaty Mazurianfarmed snails; beef tartar with pickled shimeji and parmesan; and a smoked haddock with onion puree that has the table clamoring for more. The latter is one of the finest plates of food I’ve eaten this year. Of the mains, the beef fillet is a force of good: a beautiful cut suitably twinned with a sensual porto sauce. Pearls of onion and a creamy potato gratin elevate it higher. The surprise is the baked cod, a seemingly simple sounding dish that’s the most cunning and complicated of the lot: despite the variety of ingredients used with this dish, everything comes together in a subtle bang of taste. And then dessert, a grapefruit sphere with elderflower syrup, strips of beetroot jelly and a raspberry vinegar. A class composition, it’s the fine and final flourish of a kitchen that’s on-form.

Drinks

Well of course there’s wine, but you’re missing the point if that’s what you stick to. Considerable time has been invested in not just the bar, but the staff who man it, and that much is clear by a cocktail list that’s been developed with the menu in mind. Clearly on the same wavelength, the kitchen crew have worked closely with the bar staff to devise pairings that maximize the tastes of both the food and drink. Handling the latter is Wiktor, a mixologist supreme who makes it look easy.

Using a selection of own-made cordial, marmalade and other personalized products, his knack of balancing top quality products with the right spirits gives the impression of a man in possession of an uncanny sixth sense. This is a bar to be respected and revered.

Bez Tytułu ul. Poznańska 16, beztytulu.com www.warsawinsider.pl

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REVIEWS HOT PICK

It’s the quiet ones you have to watch. Attracting torrents of tarted-up humanity, it’s the bigger units inside Hala Koszyki that have dominated the PR and press. However, it’s actually the smaller, peripheral components that are the ones to seek out – places, for instance, like Corona Sok i Mus. Inconspicuous by its size, this pit stop consists of nothing more than a counter and display fridge, yet already its carved a 24-carat reputation for cold-pressed juices and small, jarred mousses. Made using local seasonal fruit and veg, then topped with superfoods and spices, the quality of Corona’s products have made it a standout.

Corona Sok i Mus ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki), fb.com/coronasokimus

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PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

OFF THE PRESS

Partner News The latest marketplace news from the Warsaw Insider’s friends and advertisers…

Spring Bloom

The grayness has subsided and Pl. Grzybowski has woken from hibernation to revel once more in glorious Spring color. Empty not long back, the area is alive as restaurants and cafes clatter around erecting their tables and terraces.

At Strefa we’ll be unveiling our own picturesque Eden, a place that promises to be the ideal backdrop for tipples of wine and the dishes of chef Jarek Walczyk.

Strefa ul. Próżna 9, restauracjastrefa.pl

PARK

Sculptures Paintings Photographies

Green Scene

For the second year running Grunt i Woda will be opening on the banks of the Wisła.

Relaunching on May 13th, we’ve incorporated several changes to be even greener and environmentally aware than last year!

We’ll also be introducing a BBQ each Saturday from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and jazz brunches each Sunday.

Grunt i Woda Bulwar Flotylli Wiślanej, gruntiwoda. waw.pl

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Warsaw Insider | MAY 2017

On The Move

At Reloplanet we’ll find solutions to even the most impossible tasks. When it comes to movals, we’ve successfully completed hundreds of relocations across the globe. Our twenty years of experience is complemented by our affordable prices, high standard of service and innovative solutions.

Reloplanet ul. Platerówek 3, reloplanet.com

Work Of Art

From May 26th the Sobański PalPałac Sobańskich ace will play host to Art Park, an extraordinary exhibition featuring the works of Pascal Goujon and Stephane Cipre. The works of these famed French artists will be displayed throughout the palace’s gardens as well as inside the Amber Room restaurant. The exhibition is open free of charge to all patrons.

Amber Room Al. Ujazdowskie 13, amber-room.pl

A Lot To Love

Day and night, Miłość always buzzes...

A

t a time when many of Warsaw’s bars and restaurants feel like vapid replications of each other there’s something about Miłość that’s striking and fresh. Two years old it might be, but it still feels every bit as innovative and original as when it first opened its doors.

Credit that to an eclectic interior involving a ‘living wall’ of creeping plant life and a ceiling masked by wavy, paper forms. Set against a largely neutral, concrete color palette, it’s an interior that causes eyes to rove, roam and settle on the quirky, little elements inserted into the design.

The nocturnal aspects of Miłość have been covered copiously and require little introduction: the witching hours are a time for smart cocktails, focused-looking DJs and long nights of Bacchanlian abandon. For all that, it’s a scene that feels intelligent and arty as opposed to shallow

and moronic. Typical Warsaw this ain’t.

Less is known about Miłość in daytime, but it’s then that the full scope of its virtues become apparent. Playing a key role is an Italian menu that’s light and right for April: a fresh spinach salad drizzled with pomegranate, nuts and gorgonzola; a beef carpaccio that’s deep red and wafer thin; pastas served with salmon and shrimp; and a collection of pizza that’s brief but beautiful. It’s a menu that’s simple and to-the-point, a menu that allows the ingredients to shine and steal the limelight. And that’s Miłość in a nutshell – that’s love.

Miłość Kredytowa 9 ul. Kredytowa 9, kredytowa9.pl

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restaurants KEY

NEW & NOTEWORTHY

$ zł. 30 (per main) $$ zł. 30-55 $$$ over zł. 55 New listings are in RED 2016 Best of Warsaw Award Winner BEST OF WARSAW 2016 KEY WINNERS Fine Dining Nolita Casual Dining MOD Upscale Casual Dyletanci & Rozbrat20 Modern Polish Mała Polana Smaków

WEGEMAMA (ul. Marszałkowska 28, wegemama.com) Inspired by the tastes of Asia, Wegemama gives vegan cooking a zippy twist with their spin on such classics as laksa soup and pad Thai. Overseen by Piotr and Grzegorz, two chefs with a proven history in vegan cooking, the kitchen has so far operated at full capacity to deal with the demand. The desserts – made using natural extracts and superfoods – have made a particular impact on Wegemama’s expanding fanbase.

OM NOM NOM (ul. Krucza 41/43) The worst idea to hit Warsaw in 2016? The sushito, a bastardized hybrid of Mexican and Japanese cuisine. Om Nom Nom were the principal pioneers of this prattish fad, so it was no great loss when it closed in Feb. Now reopened, they’ve lost the sushito, replacing it instead with brilliant bowls of ramen cooked by the highly-rated Luiza Trisno. A fair swap? You bet. Enjoy your noodles inside a zany interior filled with big punches of color.

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american balkan & russian british burgers & street food chinese cooking schools fine dining french georgian greek & turkish hungarian indian indonesian international italian japanese & sushi jewish korean latin & spanish mexican middle eastern polish russian scandinavian seafood specialty food shops steak houses thai vegan & wholefood vietnamese

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american

6710, someplace-else.pl Favoring a stark concrete look, SPE were once a legend of 90s/00s Warsaw. Things have tamed down since that ex-pat heyday, but this remains a noteworthy choice for live concerts and zippy Tex Mex food. $$

pl Lots of clunky timber and imported ceramics set the scene at this eatery, a Balkan stalwart that’s known for its economical pricing structure and bulky portions. Grilled meats are prominent and the food largely reliable. $$

balkan

british

Hard Rock Café (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, hardrockcafe.pl Instantly recognizable by the giant neon guitar outside, Hard Rock has a pierced staff of skater boys and rock girls and a menu that is, if nothing else, completely reliable. Peruse rock’n’roll swag that includes Joplin’s blouse, Prince’s guitar and Shakira’s pants. $$

Ba Adriatico (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 50/52, ba-adriatico.pl As a starter, then the grilled peppers stuffed with creamy, regional cheese are irresistible.

But then so too the octopus salad. Mains are a victory of simplicity, with dishes like skewered minced beef served with a bitey sauce and a soft, pillowy Lepinja bread. Yet ignore Thursday seafood night at your peril.

Croatian-run, this neighborhood spot has an unassuming air that belies the general quality. $$

Ę Rybę (E4) Al. Jana Pawła II 18, erybe.pl A couple of places have tried to emulate the taste of the British seaside, but this is the de facto codfather. Here’s a spot where the chips are golden, the fish fresh and the batter crisp and light. Now also serving British breakfast, albeit at a time when most normal people will have already eaten. $$

Someplace Else (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450

Banja Luka (E8) ul. Szkolna 2/4, tel. 22 828 1060, banjaluka.

Brooklyn Restaurant & Bar (C4) Al. Jana Pawła II 18 (Rondo ONZ), tel. 22 114 3434 Gone are the fancy pants culinary creations once found in the basement, ousted in favor of a menu of pimped-up soul and street food, salads and steaks.

This means fresh tacos not to mention the best-selling ‘Mito’s Beef Ribs’. The ground floor burger bar is more prosaic, offering a standard line-up of burgers and wings. $$

Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640, legendsbar.pl It’s a British pub first and foremost, but massive steps have been taken to ensure that the food angle isn’t overlooked. The

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listings / restaurants all-day breakfast is a great way to stoke up your drinking powers, while other dishes of note inc. pies, sausages and mash and, of course, fish and chips. $$

Created by Jarosław Voitiuk, our menu is influenced by seasonal produce and it is mostly based on fresh fish and seafood delivered daily from Spain. Find a classic cuisine with a modern twist and a beautiful game of colours and form matched with award-winning wines and unique cocktails

Pik’s Fish & Chips ul. Grójecka 17B You wait years for a fish and chip shop and then two come along at once. But most of the Brits are converging on E Rybę in the center, and there’s a reason for that: entered into a head-to-head and there’s one clear winner. It’s not Pik. Comparisons to E Rybę are both inevitable and unfavorable: smaller portions and tastes that are just not quite there. $

burgers & street food Barn Burger (D4) ul. Złota 9. tel. 512 157 567, barnburger. pl Retaining a loyal crowd ever since their 2012 entry on the burger circuit, Barn Burger offer a loud and lively atmosphere and much celebrated burgers with goofy names like Heart Attack and Muppet. The list by the door notes the results of their Americanstyle eating competitions / greed-fests. $ Beef’N’Roll (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel. 531 707 070, beefnroll.pl If the wheels have fallen off the burger craze then no-one told Beef’N’Roll.

Originating as a food truck, their success has been such that a fixed venue was required.

Everything about the food and drink suggests quality is the main consideration. $ Bez Ości (D5) ul. Hoża 51, bezosci.com Those lamenting the loss of Warsaw’s first artisan sandwich stop – MeatLove – have been given hope by the opening of a new venture across the street. Specializing in fish-based sarnies and baguettes, the choice includes deboned catches fresh from a stint in the smokehouse served in bread baked in traditional brick ovens. The cod with horseradish choice is a particular bestseller. Find it occupying a tiny, converted space inside a former vodka distillery. $

ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 516 995 690, www.zmianaklimatu.pl

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Burger Bar ul. Puławska 974/80 (enter from Olkuska) & ul. Krucza 41/43, burgerbar.waw.pl Warsaw has come full-circle: years after burgers briefly starred as the national food, it’s the

original burger joint that still bosses the field. $ Pogromcy Meatów (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, tel. 505 703 508 Yearn no more for the elusive flavor of the backyard BBQ. Specializing in grilled meat, find exactly just that loaded into artisan buns alongside locally grown greens. The sense of homespun quality makes this the kind of comfort food that Warsaw has been missing for years. $ SAS Duck & Chicken (D5) ul. Piękna 54 Although SAS Duck & Chicken feels reminiscent of the ‘hipster pop-up’ we first saw three or four years back, they’ve taken a tried and tested format and hit refresh. A small and simple space it might be, but this kitchen crew have won hearts and minds with an understandable menu that presents comfort food at its glorious best: BBQ hot wings, duck confit burgers, chicken skewers and turkey in a big, buttery brioche. These are simple pleasures refined for a picky palette. $ Warburger (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1, warburger.pl While Warsaw has lost its appetite for burgers, you wouldn’t necessarily tell by popping in WarBurger. Set inside a diminutive cabin, join the scrum for jazzed-up burgers that use slow-food ingredients. If not the best, they’re most certainly up there. $ Ziggi Point (B4) ul. Pańska 59, tel. 696 145 735 Diners are summoned to the counter to collect their order via a buzzer, before settling down to enjoy what has emerged as a real candidate for Warsaw’s best burger. The fiery Desperados is as perfect as a burger gets, and best twinned with a Curiosity Cola from the Fentimans brand. Steaks and wings also available inside a cool diner setup. $

chinese Cesarski Pałac (D2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 9707, cesarskipalac.com A rouge tinted Chinese restaurant whose design even incorporates a footbridge. Widely acclaimed, this 18-year-old restaurant combines Sichuan and Cantonese cuisine to serve a variety of dishes in an elegant backdrop. The Dim Sum are something else. $$

listings / restaurants

Pańska 85 (B4) ul. Pańska 85, panska85.com Ample in size, the interiors speak of money well spent. This is especially true because despite the luxury trimmings Pańska looks good without ever losing its dignity. With their kitchen staff headhunted from across China, the food sets a standard that has yet to be seen in any Chinese restaurant in Warsaw: there’s delicate salmon rolls wrapped in mango; dim sum that are pouches of pure goodness; and Sichuan-style pork that’s a blaze of sizzle and spice. The Beijing Duck, carved and served table-side, is the highlight.

Pełną Parą (B4) ul. Sienna 76, pelnapara.pl The Thai soup with lemongrass and chicken is fragrant, deep and nourishing, but it’s the Chinese dim sum they’re famous for mind, with eight variations thereof. Find yourself knocked sideways by these beautiful pouches of meaty goodness: the duck, orange and Sichuan pepper is a particular favorite. Impossible to get tired of, these are of a standard that bring to mind London’s Chinatown. $ Pełną Parą na Nowo (D6) ul. Nowowiejska 10, pelnapara.pl A good gauge of Pełną Parą’s swoon-worthy offerings is the Dim Sum Mix: find a duo of Chinese dumplings (pork/shitake & bamboo/shrimp) plus a spicy kimchi-style cucumber salad topped off with some fried wontons and spring rolls. Appetites, however, may suffer if you sit too close to the manager, a person who sees nothing wrong with barking orders at the staff in the manner of a bulldog. $ Regina Bar (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, fb.com/Reginabar Stepping past a pair of flowing red drapes at the entrance, guests are ushered in to discover an eclectic world that marries the tastes of New York’s Little Italy to Chinatown next door. This is done excellently with the menu presenting the very essence of ethnic comfort food: General Tso’s chicken, Cantonese roast duck and light, leopard-spotted pizzas.

Brought to you by the makers of MOD, it’s therefore natural that the original style extends to kooky interiors tinged with a trace of retro: a tall mirrored wall and the kind of sparkling chandelier last seen in Boogie Nights.

Rico’s Concept (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście16/18 Never let a name fool you. While Rico’s might sound more like a Mexican food truck, the reality presents a former bathhouse luxuriously decorated with handpainted Majolica, swanky fittings and even a shimmery pool.

The menu has won plaudits around town for its stunning authenticity. Full review next issue. $$

cooking schools Akademia Kulinarna Whirlpool ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), akademiakulinarnawhirlpool.pl Run by two Italians, find a gleaming kitchen inside a vast warehouse space inside Soho Factory. Mediterranean workshops are the primary foundation, though wine tasting and Polish cooking courses are also available.

Cook Up Studio ul. Racławicka 99 (Fort Mokotów), tel. 22 212 89 76, cookup.pl Workshops in a gorgeous cooking studio located in a redbrick fortress.

Past themes have included Swedish cooking (led by the Swedish Embassy chef), knife skills and soup, with lessons culminating in eating all that hard work.

Qki ul.Szolc-Rogozińskiego 3, qki.waw.pl Already famed for their pastries and cakes, the two sisters in-law that run Qki are now ready to reveal their kitchen secrets inside their latest project: a cooking studio set down in Ursynów.

fine dining Amber Room at the Sobański Palace (E6) Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, amberroom.pl The Amber Room is, indeed, a bit of a treasure. You know all the chefs we bang on about in this mag? Bottom line, the good ones came through via this kitchen.

But this is more than a training ground for future stars, it’s a place that remains on the cutting edge in spite of its seemingly straight look. Positioned inside a majestic villa, the food is pure contemporary Poland, and well deserving of its Michelin nod. For that, thank chef Robert Skubisz. $$$ Atelier Amaro (E6) ul. Agrykola 1, tel. 22 628 5747 The www.warsawinsider.pl

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recipient of Poland’s first Michelin star, Atelier promotes pedigree Polish produce enhanced by modern techniques, with courses interspersed by occasionally bizarre interludes (leaves, flowers, twigs, etc). It’s an extraordinary dining experience, and one which confirms the growing cult of Wojciech Amaro. In the hours you’re here the world stops and you leave feeling like James Bond.

Reservations are mandatory, but this is a restaurant that tops the foodie bucket list. $$$

Belvedere Łazienki Królewskie ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. 22 558 6701, belvedere. com.pl Set in an imperial age glass orangery, it’s festooned with intricate latticework and botanical exotica. The updated interiors are the work of acclaimed set designer Boris Kudlicka, and lend a fresh, contemporary tone that goes hand in hand with the menu.

But behind the gels and emulsions and pretty little swirls, this is cooking of substantial depth; it’s cooking that takes you to the very soul of Polish nature. $$$ La Rotisserie (C1) ul. Kościelna 12 (Le Régina Hotel), tel.

22 531 6070, leregina.com It began with duck foie gras and finished with a caramel Valrhona chocolate parfait. In between came a scallop salad with plums, almonds and tarragon tempura; a grilled tuna; and a

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seared Barbary duck with blackberry ginger sauce and the kind of parsnips you never knew existed. The Insider’s visit at the end of 2016 was nothing if not a reassertion of chef Paweł Oszczyk’s ample skill. Enjoy one of Warsaw’s top dining experiences inside a gloriously seductive dining room that’s been recently updated. $$$ L’enfant Terrible (D8) ul. Sandomierska 13 (enter from Rejtana), tel. 22 119 5705, eterrible.pl Looking like he’s just swaggered in from a rock concert, the unconventional style of Michał Bryś goes beyond surface detail alone. Promising maximum excitement, his imaginative menu isn’t short on daring twists and rollercoaster highs. Maverick in every sense of the word, this is a chef that pushes boundaries in a way few others would dare. Though the menu changes often, keep an eye on recurring classics such as ‘tomatoes, tomatoes, tomatoes’, a kickass course that presents the humble tomato in about ten different forms!

More informal than the other top bracket restaurants, the brainwashed loyalty of Enfant’s fans says much for it. $$$ N31 (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 31, n31restaurant.pl One of the original pioneers of modern Polish cooking returns with renewed vigor.

That’s Robert Sowa, and his N31 restaurant has already made a massive splash with an upmarket, showbizzy crowd enjoying complex cooking amid a luxurious interior of

pristine linen and glinting tableware. $$$

Nolita (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 292 0424, nolita. pl The deluxe dining scene is filling out in Warsaw, and there’s now a few restaurants that can present an equitable claim for the No. 1 spot. However, it’s Nolita that perch at the top, with a menu that sees largely classical recipes through a sharp, modern prism – chef Jacek Grochowina has created a place that’s coherent and understandable without sacrificing values of innovation. Looking chic and high end, the tastes and sensations in this restaurant are thrilling: diners are left speechless by the tuna tartar, while the aged beef fillet is an Insider mainstay. $$$ BEST WAWA 2016 “Fine Dining” Platter by Karol Okrasa (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (Hotel InterContinental Warsaw), warsaw.intercontinental.com It’s a fact that Okrasa’s appearances in the kitchen are fleeting and rare, but that’s done nothing to hurt this restaurant’s prestige. Head chef Łukasz Pielak has proved to be a lethal assassin, executing the ideas of his mentor with accuracy and passion. The cooking is detailed, balanced and elegant, with the highlight of our visit being deer in plum sauce. A thing of imperial, velvety richness it’s a dish that turns up the volume on a memorable experience. $$$

Salto (D5) ul. Wilcza 73 (enter from Emilii Plater), tel.

22 584 8771, saltorestauracja.pl Fine dining gets a South American makeover thanks to Martin Gimenez Castro, an Argentinean who has emerged as one of the most influential chefs in Poland. While some critics grumble that Warsaw’s top end scene has flat-lined, Salto push the envelope in terms of breaking boundaries and probing new ground. Light, fresh and full of zing, the ceviche is a must, as is a delve around the Sunday steak menu.

Desserts, meanwhile, are among the most inventive in town: a brilliant demonstration of Castro’s passion and personality, order the ‘Childhood / Irresponsible / Fantasy / Fun’ and you’ll understand what we mean. $$$

Senses (C2) ul. Bielańska 12, tel. 22 331 9697, sensesrestaurant.pl Andrea Camastra’s Michelin-starred tasting menu is a succession of impossible highs and makes a big deal of scientific methods and culinary advances. Full of theater and unpredictable flourishes (billowing mists, imaginative presentation, edible cigars...), this restaurant is never short on dare and dazzle. $$$

just being here: we’ve heard the interiors described as a ‘Monegasque state of mind’, and that’s not a bad way to surmise a décor that’s all about friezes and reliefs dated from the time this was the Soviet Embassy, lavish 1950s Oswald chairs, lighting by Serge Mouille and original Marilyn photos shot by the acclaimed Milton Greene. Food-wise the restaurant makes a massive splash with a menu that’s clever, creative and pretty.

Count on Signature’s seasonally changing desserts providing a happy ending. $$ Tamka 43 (E3) ul. Tamka 43, tel. 22 441 6234, tamka.43.pl Ground floor: upmarket cafe serving Chopin fans. Upstairs: a fine dining restaurant in which the seasonal menu sets the natural flavors of Poland against the culinary know-how of tomorrow. It’s easy to drop serious money here, but you’ll still feel it’s worthwhile. $$$

french

ArtBistro Stalowa ul. Stalowa 52, tel. 22 618 2732 Part of an ‘art hotel’, the distant Stalowa features a narrow dining chamber with vaulted walls, fresh flowers and white formica fittings.

It looks good, but on a brighter day the courtyard, strewn with deckchairs and crates, Signature (D5) is the place to be. The food is erratic but ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 55 38755, there is potential: if the other courses were Salto Advert Feb 20.pdf 1 20/02/17 15:08 signaturerestaurant.pl You feel a millionaire a disappointment then the main was a thing

of excellence – duck with a carefully crisped skin, a perfect hint of fat, expertly browned potatoes and a well-executed orange and caramel sauce. $$ Bistro la Cocotte (D6) ul. Mokotowska 12, tel. 664 906 000 With access through a shadowy courtyard, the sensation you’re stepping inside a little secret is a pleasure in itself. Presenting itself in a riot of red and white gingham Cocotte feels warm and intimate, a factor aided by a small open kitchen and the atmosphere of home. The menu, chalked up on the blackboard, is a flexible affair that makes use of the ingredients at hand, and is divided into a smattering of light bites, desserts and plat du jour.

L’Arc (E8) ul. Puławska 16, tel. 519 000 050, larc.pl Looking elegant with its black/white floors and subtle decorations bills at L’Arc can become big number affairs – especially if you hanker for seafood. No-one complains, however. Pick from numerous types of oysters, or delve into the fish tank for the lobster of your choosing. The catchment area extends beyond the borders of Mokotów, not just because of their ‘fresh from France’ seafood, but because of classic dishes such as Mulard duck and Burgundy snails. $$ La Cocotte Saska (H4) ul. Walecznych 68A Already well regarded

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on account of a highly successful venture just off Pl. Zbawiciela, La Cocotte have spread their wings to set up shop in scenic Saska. A typical French-style bistro / wine bar, the offer includes a brief but largely brilliant menu whose main strength is its mussels. The wine list is substantial and French-focused and enjoyed by a smart, upmarket audience. $$ No Comment (F4) Al. 3 Maja 16/18A, fb.com/nocommentwarszawa Set inside one of those momentous towers that support Most Poniatowskiego, you don’t feel like you’re in a restaurant, you’ll feel like you’re in a film – something weird by Aronofsky or Lynch.

Seating is small and tight, set around glasstopped tables that favor form over function.

But there’s a reasoning behind this which soon becomes apparent. No Comment is all about intimacy, about bending over platters for surreptitious slurps of New Zealand oysters. It’s about decadence, about clinking glasses and toasting the moment. Most of all, it’s about authentic French style. $$

georgian Chinkali (D4) ul. Zgoda 3 Signposted by a Georgianlanguage shingle, there’s a real sense of pleasure about this place. More modern than your typical folksy ethnic outpost, Chinkali’s draw is indeed its chinkali: dough purses packed with meaty broth. There’s a genuine

homemade quality to these slurpy bundles of joy, meaning that while they’re authentic, consistency can vary. And don’t miss out on the red bean chachapuri washed down with a mouthwash-colored tarragon lemonade. $ Klukovka (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 45A, klukovka.pl Jana Pawła’s pavilions are the unlikely location of this culinary beacon: amid the aggressive waft of its kebab shop neighbors, Klukova presents itself as a warming winter mouse hole filled with banter, babble and rich aromas. Specializing in the foods of ‘the east’, this means a menu inspired by the tastes of Georgia, Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan, and more. The mutton manty dumplings are great, and best appreciated with a bottle of unfiltered Lithuanian beer. That said, it’s never a surprise to find diners ordering up bottles of Georgian vodka before proceeding to share their way through the menu. $ Rusiko (E5) Al. Ujazdowskie 22, tel. 22 629 0628, rusiko. pl Explaining Georgian cuisine isn’t all that hard. To the uninitiated, it’s representative of the heart, spirit and passion of its people, a cuisine the values the concept of the feast: wine, laughter and song find themselves elevated to roles of primary importance. A food of life, spice and whole-hearted tastes, consider Rusiko as the best ambassador there is for this surprisingly diverse kitchen.

Live music lends the weekends a goodhumored twist. Note: closed Monday. $$

greek & turkish Bar Turecki “Efes” (H4) ul. Francuska 1, ul. Aleje Niepodleglości 80, tel. 22 898 3001 So it’s best known as a kebab shop, but when the kebabs are this good they’re well worth the listing. Either join the queue outside, or head indoors to sample the smattering of Turkish grill food and salads. $ Kumpir House (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 59, tel. 723 101 111 Ensconced inside an inviting, raw brick room Kumpir’s warming aura has as much to do with its food and drink as it does its design. Sip fragrant Turkish coffee while picking through loaded jacket potatoes that bring to mind the street stalls of Istanbul. $$ Paros (D4) ul. Jasna 14/16, tel. 22 828 1067, parosrestauracja.pl Out of all of Warsaw’s Greek contributions Paros dazzles most with a glitzy look that’s a complete U-turn from the typical taverna look. Owned by the same team behind El Greco, the menu is identical, though a recent visit revealed a kitchen resting on its laurels – not one plate on our table was finished. $$ Santorini ul. Egipska 7, tel. 22 672 0525, kregliccy.pl/ santorini/ Santorini looks scuffed and tired but there’s a bonhomie present that instantly engages. The kitchen attaches no value to things like presentation, preferring instead to simply treat diners to piles of grilled and skewered food that consistently tastes right – and the milfei dessert is magic. $$ Sofra (C6) ul. Wilcza 71, tel. 731 847 731 A highly respected Turkish eatery with a wondrous beef mussaka and a wholly admirable lineup of other ethnic dishes: the lamb shashlik has never failed us. Pleasingly informal, this neighborhood redoubt feels cheerfully unforced, and it becomes an easy place to hang around in. $ Taverna Patris (G4) ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 407, tel 22 357 11 11, tawernapatris.pl This Greek restaurant is not about sophistication and finesse, it’s about truth and taste. Likewise, the interiors have no airs and graces: there’s a rough and ready style that’s apt for noisy celebrations

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and familial occasions. Tawerna Patris is not about shallow details or surface appearances. Instead, it’s a place of depth, a place of integrity, a place of joy. $$

hungarian U Madziara (B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 620 1423, umadziara.pl U Madziara looks like it took two days to decorate. No-one goes here to marvel at the interiors though, they go in the knowledge that they’ll find great food at prices all bank cards can support. Chef Gabor’s signature goulash is one of life’s simple pleasures, though the service can come across as distracted and inattentive. $

indian Bollywood Lounge (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, tel. 22 827 0283, bollywoodlounge.pl Known for their raucous dusk-till-dawn parties, there is another less hedonistic roll filled by Bollywood: that of a restaurant. The menu is an uncomplicated, classic affair that’s an ideal primer for the party ahead. $$ Bombaj Masala (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 606 688 777, bombajmasala.pl Probably the best looking Indian restaurant in Warsaw. After a disappointing couple of years Bombaj have upped their game and made a sparkling return to form. Bland, oily dishes have been replaced with all the rich, intense tastes you’ve come to hope for. $$ Curry House ul. Żeromskiego 81 & ul. Hoża 54, curryhouse.pl Ask for something extra hot in Curry House and by Vishnu that’s what you’ll get.

Yet at Curry House there is more to sing about than just Poland’s highest voltage vindaloo.

While neither of their two locations (Bielany & city center) look too grand (the Bielany branch is a glorified hut), the curries are rich and sumptuous and in a league of their own.

If in doubt, the chicken tikka masala is a fail-safe request. $$ House of Curry ul. Patriotów 11 A, house-of-curry.pl Heat seekers can ‘enjoy’ a genuine death-by-fire experience at House of Curry, though far milder curries are available for more sensitive

palettes – either way, the experience is fantastic, and good news for those stuck out in the depths of Józefów. $$ Karma (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 501 400 386, restauracjakarma.pl Fresh, contemporary interiors impart a chic, classy look that’s leagues ahead of Warsaw’s other Indian restaurants. The food is impressive, with fresh ingredients and an expansive menu: the vindaloo is a special standout, with big, punchy flavors that leave you tingling long after you leave. $$ Maharaja ul. Grzybowska 61 (Platinum Towers) That’s progress for you: where once you’d have found Maharaja on the top floor of a decaying socialist block, today you’ll find it on the ground floor of one of Warsaw’s most prestigious residential projects. It’s shrunk in size and it looks more like one of the faceless restaurant units found in an out-of-town shopping centre, but the tastes are as true as ever. Though the menu feels far more limited than much of the Indian competition, those dishes that have made the cut are largely exceptional: that includes a creamy butter chicken that can’t be bettered. $$ Mandala ul. Emilii Plater 9/11 & ul. Etiudy Rewolucyjnej 9, tel. 22 428 44 54, mandalaklub. com or indiaexpress.pl Celebrating their 10th birthday this year, Mandala is well on its way to becoming a Warsaw institution. But rather than resting on their laurels, the management are using this landmark anniversary as an opportunity to rejig the menu and update their offer. Using the freshest ingredients, Mandala is characterized by its blitzing big spices and a vindaloo capable of giving the sweat glands a work out. For something calmer, the creamy mutton methi malai is a masterpiece. $$ Mr. India Al. KEN 47, tel. 22 213 0689, mrindia.pl Split on two levels the design is contemporary if a little characterless: leather banquettes that leave a sweaty bum print and wood paneling.

No problem though, if it looks bland then the food isn’t. That means an incredible butter chicken that’s deep and immensely satisfying. Then there’s the vindaloo, an experience that leaves some close to spontaneous combustion. Undoubtedly one of the best regarded Indian restaurants in this town. $$

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Namaste India (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 15, tel. 22 357 0939, namasteindia.pl Responsible for first bringing quality, budget Indian food to Warsaw, Namaste have grown from humble beginnings (three tables and cooking done in a cupboard-sized space behind a curtain) to evolve into a bona fide two-floored restaurant. But expansion has come at the cost of quality – our last trip (March 2017) promises to be the last for some time. $$ Rani Al. KEN 48/10, tel. 729 247 400, rani.com.

pl Mere steps from Metro Natolin, this restaurant’s catchment area goes beyond just Ursynów. Owner Samir is a selfconfessed foodie, and his vision includes a contemporary Indian menu that features pan-seared cod with turmeric, tomato salsa and mint chutney – wonderful. Rani will also please the traditionalists, with everything from creamy kormas to vindaloo’s that leave your ears blowing smoke rings. $$

helm, owner Charanjit Walia has sold up and moved on, leaving a spiritual hole in his life-defining work. His parting shot has been a re-haul which has seen the interior modernized and brightened. Has the food suffered? Not a jot. The chicken tikka butter masala is as formidable as ever. It’s no longer the self-styled, ‘the best Indian restaurant in Poland’, but it’s deservedly retained a loyal core of customers. $$

Tandoor (D7) ul. Marszałkowska 21/25, tel. 22825 2375, tandoor.com.pl After nearly 20 years at the

indonesian Warung Jakarta (D6) ul. Piękna 28/34 The menu has a street foodie edge and is divided into steps wherein diners first pick out their choice of protein, then their rice, before concluding with any vegetables add-ons (e.g. pak choy, green beans or water spinach). While most Warsaw restaurants have a special lunch scheme going on, Warung’s is one that actually warrants a further look: find truly great off-menu dishes that are highly accessible to all levels of income. $

international Aioli (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 5, aioliinspiredbymini.pl Once a gritty Stalinist leftover, Konstytucji has come a long way fast. A recent rush of bars and restaurants have aided the reintrocution of life to this concrete tundra, the most prominent of which being Aioli. Some might accuse it of being formulaic, but it’s clearly a formula that works: young and energetic, there’s a buzz here lasts long into the night.

Food-wise, it’s a steady choice based around burgers, pizzas and other things that their age bracket appreciates. $$ Aioli (D3) ul. Świętokrzyska 18, tel. 22 290 102, aioli-cantine.com This runaway hit has taken Warsaw by storm. It’s a jaunty space with hams hanging from hooks and long communal tables that thrive with life. Aioli’s breakfasts, sandwiches, pastas and pizzas are a lesson in clean, simple pleasure: nothing out of the world, just consistently good. This and the liberal prices mean there’s no shortage of people passing in and out the doors. $$ Ale Wino (F5) ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 628 3830,

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alewino.pl Dip through an archway to discover Ale Wino, a beautiful wine bar whose menu has been well tailored to the season.

Tweaked for the season is the pork belly, a Złotnicka pig adorned with apple sugar snap peas and celery mousse – gorgeous. As for the wine, put your faith in the sommelier, Oliver.

Bazar Kocha (D6) ul. Mokotowska 33, bazarkocha.pl Designed to evoke the spirit of a farmers’ market, the woodsy interior is filled with stall-style units neatly stacked with jars and pots. Yet these are not decorative decoys, but part of a thoughtful grocery offer aimed at showcasing Kocha’s own-made produce. Above all though, this is a restaurant whose menu is strongly influenced by concepts of ‘terroir’.

The giant leg of lamb falls off the bone and is a dish to recommend and remember for several months to come. $$ Bez Tytułu (D5) ul. Poznańska 16, beztytulu.com

A beautifully decorated restaurant on trendy Poznanska. The menu has French and Polish accents and reflects the chef’s creative streak well. $$ Bibenda (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 10, tel. 502 770 303, bibenda.pl The menu declares Bibenda to be ‘a celebration of food, drink and togetherness’, and that’s precisely what it is. Augmenting the warm, busy interiors are a thoughtful selection of craft beers and a concise menu that varies from month-tomonth. The apparent simplicity of the food is illusory and belies the kitchen’s knack for spotting interesting combinations such as goose with pumpkin puree, cranberry / red wine jam and chili caramelized beetroot. $$ Brasserie Warszawska (E5) ul. Górnośląska 24, tel. 22 628 9423, brasseriewarszawska.pl Looking for classic cuisine with no daft flights of fancy? Here you have it. At a time when everyone wants to be Ferran Adrià, Brasserie has both a

menu and interior that you can understand: pan-fried foie gras; elegant beef Rossini; and sinful apple tarte tatin, all served inside posh interiors of zinc-plated mirrors and chessboard floors. Their Michelin Bib Gourmand is a source of pride, but it’s the number of repeat clients that are the ultimate paean to the skills of chef Mateusz Wichrowski. $$$ Bubbles (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 512 540 913, bubbles.com.pl Occupying a small, square room, it’s intimate and relaxed: a place busy with blackboards and bottles, crates and clutter.

It radiates warmth and honesty. The food is exquisite, and includes big, meaty snails farmed in Mazury, and their signature dish: Swiss-style raclette. Presented on a wooden chopping board, this cheese dish is classic melty goodness, and served alongside a pile of potatoes, onions marinated with caramel and candied pumpkin. Considering the place doubles as a champagne bar the prices are remarkably moderate. $$

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Bułkę przez Bibułkę ul. Zgoda 3 & ul. Puławska 24, bulkeprzezbibulke.pl When Bułkę przez Bibułkę was opened the idea was simple – to create a boutique version of Subway: a high quality sandwich shop people would value. But after they started serving breakfast, the whole thing snowballed into a more bistro-style offer. Now there’s a second venue on Zgoda, it’s not just the quality that’s contributed to the success, but the atmosphere as well. $$ Casablanca Biały Kamień ul. Żaryna 2B, casablancawaw.com.pl From

the same team behind Na Lato comes Casablanca, a versatile venue that muddies the lines between café, restaurant, wine bar and hangout. Equally comfortable in each of these roles, it’s a place that feels fresh and cosmopolitan, not to mention completely in tune with the swank, glass surrounds. More to the point, it’s given wings to a part of Mokotów that before felt quite sterile. $$ Concept 13 (D4) ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7373, likusrestauracje.pl You’d expect a rooftop meal at Poland’s ultimate luxury department store to cost the

earth, but that’s not the case. The zł. 50 lunch deal allows Joe Public to enjoy the considerable skills of Dariusz Barański. That he manages to create different pieces of art each and every afternoon is a testament to his talent – fellow chefs and foodies privately talk of him as a Michelin star in the making. $$$ The Cool Cat (F4) ul. Solec 38, tel. 787 698 700 Our visit featured a musical standoff between two waiters arguing over possession of the laptop, and a genuine piece of plate art that was as delicious as it looked: beautiful deer surrounded by creative ingredients.

Small menu and a fashionable crowd, but an immensely enjoyable place that adds further oomph to Powiśle. $$ Dekant Wine Bar (F5) ul. Zajęcza 15, dekant.com.pl Not just a contender for Warsaw’s best new wine bar, but also Warsaw’s best new restaurant!

The tuna tartar comes with the added ka-boom of a nose clearing wasabi, while the filet mignon (a snip at zł. 79) is simply astonishing. The surprise are the ash-cooked potatoes, beautiful things with a char that wows. The desserts are few in number but equally outstanding: we fell in love with a passion fruit semi-freddo with strawberries marinated in Grand Marnier. $$

A PLACE IN WHICH WINE PLAYS THE FIRST CHORD IN HARMONY WITH WHAT APPEARS ON THE PLATE…

WE WELCOME YOU

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Der Elefant (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, tel. 22 890 0010, derelefant.com This leviathan restaurant unravels in a maze of wrought iron and monochrome tiles – beautiful to look at (it was created by Oscar winning set designer Allan Starski), it’s caused a stir for more than just this alone. Where once the menu looked like it was devised by throwing darts at a cookbook, the focus has now been narrowed. While some of the dishes are strictly middling, the filet mignon (zł. 69) is one of the best meat deals in town in terms of quality / price / consistency. $$ Dom ul. Mierosławskiego 12, tel. 509 165 712 Here’s the very epitome of casual dining: set on the ground floor of a suburban house, the warm corners and garden views give Dom a real sense of homey charm. In line with all that is a menu that celebrates simple, honest cooking. Everyone who visits ends up loving the place. $$

listings / restaurants Original Indian Cuisine

Dyletanci (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44A, dyletanci.pl Filled with crisp, modern citizens that radiate confidence, Dyletanci introduces itself as a bistro set with green banquettes and Tom Dixon lamps.

The wine selection is among the best in the nation, while the cooking has been left to Rafał Hreczaniuk, a workaholic chef with outrageous talent. His zander fillet thrills BEST WAWA 2016 with every bite. $$ “Upscale Casual” Grand Kredens (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 111, tel. 22 629 8008, kredens.com.pl This mighty veteran continues to draw a steady custom on account of a wide-reaching menu that aims to keep everyone happy – and it usually does. The design is surreal to say the least, and is laid out in such a way as to always guarantee a lively atmosphere. $$ Hala Koszyki (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63, koszyki.com Finally open after years of disruption and destruction, the launch of this food hall was the big story of Autumn 2016. Integrating old with new, this huge project brings together some 18 food outlets inside a busy interior that’s all iron girders and industrial lighting. While there’s a feeling that there should have been a bigger focus on artisan, independent traders, that’s done nothing to dent Koszyki’s astonishing popularity. Units of note include the Gringo Salsownia, Port Royal Fish & Oyster Bar, and the Sobramesa Tapas Bar. $$ InFormal Kitchen (D3) Pl. Małachowskiego 2 (enter from Traugutta), tel. 531 918 534, informalkitchen.pl There’s plenty of fireworks over the course of a vibrant menu that sources its produce from regional eco farms: meat from within a 26-kilometer radius of Warsaw, dairy produce from Mazury and fish from Pomerania. The rump of lamb is a class act, and bettered only by the pear and thyme tart for dessert. $$

club

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Joseph’s Bistro & Wine (B1) ul. Inflancka 4, josephs.pl Spacious and smooth on the eye, Joseph’s has the feel of a place where good things happen: and indeed they do. For starters there’s a visually enticing tuna tartar, not to mention gherkin with rhubarb and cheese. It’s frankly remarkable with all sorts of tastes popping out thanks to a marinade that involves passionfruit, chili, vinegar and maple syrup. As a main, don’t miss the duck breast: a simple thing

of beauty that’s given extra vigor with a star anise demi-glace. $$ Kieliszki Na Hożej ul. Hoża 41, kieliszkinahozej.pl The only Polish graduate of the Alain Ducasse academy in Paris, Dawid Balana has combined everything he’s learned along the way to fashion a menu that’s high on local produce but cooked with a classic French twist. The tastes are precise and well-balanced, but also varied enough to give a seemingly simple dishes several interesting sub-plots. From the outside, it looks like something straight from the 6th arrondissement. Through the door, and diners are met head-on by a seductive space that’s dark, intimate and full of gleaming glass: beautiful. $$ Kuchnia Otwarta ul. Klimczaka 1 (Royal Wilanów), kuchniaotwarta.pl Kuchnia Otwarta have created a swell of excitement that’s rippled way beyond Wilanów. Why? Plotted out by Michał Molenda, the menu is a sincere work based around regional, seasonal produce: nothing contrived, nothing forced, it’s a card that roots out the very best that Poland has to offer: in winter, the wild boar stew, served in a cast iron pot, is a dark, delicious work that nourishes the soul.

La Brasserie Modern (D3) ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8332, sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com The interior of Didier Gomez whispers intimacy, yet it also embraces notions of space and light.

The casual elegance that emanates from the design is accented by warm colors, low banquettes and glinting mirrors. Acting as a ballast to it all is an open kitchen, in which you’ll find Executive Chef Maciej Majewski honing his art. His is a menu that fits seamlessly with the surrounds: a fresh, modern look at French cuisine, but one that values clarity and simplicity. $$

Loft (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 668 016 964, restauracjaloft.pl Color, that’s what Loft has. It’s everywhere – from the design, which is all bubble shaped lights and splashy, bright cushions, to the drinks: extravagant cocktails that possibly glow in the dark.

The menu is full of playful experimentation, something reflected by a seasonal menu that

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has, in the past, presented such choices as chicken with strawberries. $$ MOD (D6) ul. Oleandrów 8, fb.com/MODOleandrow8 Chef Trisno’s menu sets his French culinary training against his Singaporean upbringing.

The outcome is a card (actually, a printed sheet of paper) that makes for dangerously enjoyable reading: duck hearts with beetroot / soy emulsion and braised red cabbage; duck confit with pok choy, soy / red wine sauce and spicy cranberry chutney. Moderate prices and funky décor (a retro mirrored wall, upside down plants hanging from the ceiling) give it an ad hoc edge and plenty of character. Note: by day its Warsaw’s top donut store, so visit at night for their proper BEST WAWA 2016 “Casual menu. $$ Dining” Mokotowska 69 (E5) ul. Mokotowska 69, mokotowska69.com Set inside a rotunda at the tail end of the street, it’s a place that exudes elegance and class.

Most of all, however, it’s a restaurant to be enjoyed. Brought to you by the same team credited for Merliniego 5, Mokotowska’s appreciation of steak has been lifted from their elder sister. Yet the virtues of this restaurant extend beyond steak alone: the Insider enjoyed a volley of greats – creamy breaded calf brains, sophisticated smoked eel, and Mazurian crayfish served in a deep, joyous sauce of rowan berry and brandy. $$ Momu.Gastrobar (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 11, tel. 506 100 001, momu. pl Back open after a revamp and a rethink, the biggest talking point has been the star addition of a wood smoker imported from the States. Allegedly the only one of its kind in Poland, the menu has been adjusted accordingly to play to this strength – with this in mind, the ribs are a must-have. $ Plato ul. Klimczaka 1 (Royal Wilanow), restauracjaplato.pl Conceived as a ‘smart casual’ restaurant, it’s a reasonably compact space

with a modern style and incandescent bulbs hanging from a complex cat’s cradle of interweaving wires: classy but nothing too flashy or flamboyant. Then there’s the menu, a strange work that sees Spanish influences brushing shoulders next to Polish and Asian.

It sounds silly and preposterous but my God it works. December saw us wowed by beef tartar cut from Polish Hereford, an aromatic oriental brith, and a refined halibut encircled with sage pesto, redcurrants and fresh almonds. Stunning. $$ Północ Poludnie (E7) ul. Bagatela 10, pn-pd.pl Besides the food being colorful and inventive there is a restaurant concept that works here. It has a visible kitchen, which at times is a little noisy, a beautifully designed interior, not to mention an attentive wait staff that are familiar with what they serve. $$ Prosta Historia (H4) ul. Francuska 24, prostahistoria.com Informal-looking with its simple white

La Brasserie Moderne is a modern interpretation of traditional brasserie designed to bring the taste of the French art de vivre right to your table. Discover a seasonal menu skillfully composed by chef Maciej Majewski by combining the finest culinary traditions of France with local flavors and a modern twist.

Our open kitchen will complement your dining experience by creating a sense of participation in a live culinary show.

La Brasserie Moderne, visit us Mon.-Sat. noon-midnight | Królewska St 11 | 00-065 Warsaw | Tel. +48 22 657 83 82 | Email: brasserie.moderne@sofitel.com | www.facebook.com/brasserie.moderne

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finishes and stripped wooden floors, Prosta fills a ‘catch-all’ role of cafe/restaurant/ bar/meeting point. And it does all the aforementioned very well indeed, thanks to a skilled chef, a good drinks offer and a continental atmosphere that’s all life and good humor. $$ Qchnia Artystyczna (E6) Al. Jazdów 2 (Zamek Ujazdowski), tel. 22 625 7627, qchnia.pl Even on a cold, ashen day, can you question a view that spills down onto a canal and park way down below? And how about when that view comes from a candle-lit reconstructed castle… Endlessly romantic, this artistic eatery comes with a light look and a creative menu. $$ Rozbrat 20 (F5) ul. Rozbrat 20, rozbrat20.com.pl Much noise has been made about Rozbrat 20’s bread and wine selection, but their food is also something of a standout. Our trip in December meant twirls of herring pickled in vinegar and herbs and surrounded by a whorl

of pond green colors; expertly assembled and boisterously flavored Hungarian foie gras; and a roll of gelatinous pork with ribbons of crispy salsify and a reassuring, fleshy BEST WAWA 2016 taste. Outstanding. $$ “Upscale Casual” Sawa Bistro (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5, sawabistro.pl An unpretentious ride through largely Mediterranean cuisine with standouts including ‘Galicianstyle octopus’ and an Italian tartar with olive powder, shallots in port and balsamic vinegar and a smoked egg. The interiors are stripped to their original concrete and feature an eye-catching mosaic designed in the PRL style, as well as floor-to-ceiling windows and cheerful blue flashes. $$ Secado (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 66, tel. 608 707 799, secado.com.pl Casual, intimate interiors complement a menu that’s expanded from its original Latin leanings. Everything we’ve tried here has been close to culinary gold, and

that includes the surf & turf, tortillas and the roast beef. $$ Soul Kitchen Bistro (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 18A, soulkitchen.pl If the previous venue was all slanted towards low-pitched business conversation then the new one is positively festive in comparison: scuffed brickwork, tall bar stools, a long communal table, etc. The seasonal menu is a pick-and-mix of small-to-medium plates, including a halibut gravlax, whose delicate taste juxtaposes well against the rougher, earthier kick of the radish, and crayfish presented in a bird’s nest of green beans, fennel and leek. For mains, look for the braised beef. $ Stixx (A4) Pl. Europejski 4A, tel. 22 340 4040, stixx.pl It’s east to distrust a menu with such international diversity, but the kitchen crew really make it come together: the Indian section is particularly outstanding. Then there’s the design, a balance between slick corporate

New menu Lunch 12.00-16.00

35 zł

16.00-20.00

Aperitivo bar Prosecco free

www.focaccia.pl tel.: +48 22 829 69 69, ul. Senatorska 13/15, Warsaw/Old Town, restauracja@focaccia.pl, fb.com/restauracjafocaccia

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and sexy cosmopolitan: with the Warsaw Spire towering above it outside, it’s the kind of address to take any new arrival who still thinks of Poland as being backward. $$

Strefa (C3) ul. Próżna 9, tel. 22 255 0850, restauracjastrefa.pl There’s a swan white elegance here, with lots of pristine colors and smart, smooth-talking service. What a refreshing change. Chef Jarosław Walczyk favors sous-vide techniques, and his is a magic, masterful hand – his duck is flawless, and the homemade ice cream with seasonal fruits is quite a follow-up. $$$ Tusz Tusz Bistro (C2) Pl. Bankowy 2 Hidden round the back of Pl. Bankowy’s epic blue tower, Tusz Tusz is the kind of place Warsaw needs more of: a catch-all solution with a local menu that keeps office workers in mind – it’s fast, available from dawn but doesn’t cut corners when it comes to basic standards.

Full review coming soon. $$ Warbuger Na Żelazna (B4) ul. Żelazna 58/62 The easiest mistake one can make is to think this is a burger joint – in part it is, but the whole truth is that it’s so much more. A complete upgrade from their original joint in Mokotów, the real attraction

is an enticing page of more-ish, meaty mains: oxtail, beef cheeks and other snips of bits and offal. $$ Warszawski Sznyt ul. Senatorska 2, warszawskisznyt.pl Warsaw’s historic center is rightly glorified for many reasons – it’s restaurants, however, are not one of them. In fact, there’s probably nowhere in the city with a higher concentration of sub-par efforts. Aiming to redress the balance are Sznyt, an ambitious venue with swank interiors overlooking the Royal Castle, and a kitchen staff headhunted from blue ribbon venues such as Salto and Amaro.

Set over two floors (one focused on Polish cuisine, the other on ‘international’), the pride of the house is afforded to the woodfired grill. $$

italian Ave Pizza (E3) ul. Topiel 12, tel. 22 828 8507, avepizza.pl The argument over who serves Warsaw’s best pizza goes right to the wire, but there’s no doubting that Ave Pizza are up there on the leaderboard. Set across a sparse, metropolitan area, this fashionable L-shaped joint comes endorsed by the capital’s notoriously picky Italian community. Order the pillowy calzone and you’ll soon learn why. $ The Blueberry’s (D6) Pl. Zbawiciela, fb.com/theblueberrys Strange

Loft is the perfect place to pause for a moment for a coffee, to meet with friends for lunch or a late dinner – most of all, it’s a chance to escape the city bustle while remaining in the heart of Warsaw. ul. Złota 11 tel. 668 016 964 restauracjaloft.pl

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times for Pl. Zbawiciela: it’s not long back people were burning down the rainbow installation (RIP!), calling it Pl. Hipsterka and writing about it in publications such as The New York Times. Though it might have stagnated a little since that heyday hopes are again high for the future, and The Blueberry’s is one reason. Specializing in the food of Piedmont, find an onus placed on authentic, home-style tastes. $$ DaCurio (E3) ul. Tamka 45A Although it looks small and humble DaCurio have made quick work of amassing an enthusiastic following. Credit for that rests with the Roman-style pizza that comes sold by the slice. Made using Italian oils and flour, the pizzas here deserve the adulation they’ve received. $$ Delizia (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 22 622 6665, delizia. com.pl The sheer proliferation of Italian restaurants lends an element of chance to dining out: cut through the noise by visiting Delizia, a place that’s consistently topped polls ever since it launched in 2010.

Lorenzo’s cooking is upscale Italian with a contemporary twist, and comes presented by Luca, an ebullient ball of energy who patrols the floor with sparkling good humor. In the hands of these two an unforgettable night comes guaranteed. Top quality imported products, a dimly-lit romantic atmosphere, a tasteful design and faultless food: no wonder so many rate this as their favorite Italian. $$

Dziurka od Klucza (E3) ul. Radna 13, tel. 500 150 494, dziurkaodklucza.com.pl An inviting Italian restaurant in which curious doors sit embedded into the walls, as if waiting to be opened by the keys that hang on the tree outside. Striking a lavender look, the magic of this restaurant is affirmed by its wonderful pasta and intimate style. $$

Enoteka (C1) Rynek Nowego Miasta 13/15, enotekapolska. pl This L-shaped space feels completely correct: tall ceilings, big windows, marble floors and an overwhelming sense of light and sun.

The mood is good. Food matches the serious wine list and includes a rich topinmabur soup, creamy Agnolloti pasta and a hearty steak. These are not attempts at a kitchen revolution, rather a concentrated focus on a menu that makes sense. $$ Focaccia (D2) ul. Senatorska 13/15, tel. 22 829 6969, focaccia.pl The Insider’s visit went something like this: wrist-thick octopus with an arc of yellow mousse, conversation stopping beef tenderloin alongside a glistening pool of madeira sauce and then an orange ice cream with caramel and ginger that soon merged into a big gooey brew of chocolatey mess.

The only surprise is there’s no Italian in the kitchen – it appears they don’t need one.

This is seriously talented cooking inside an interior that fresh and light and reflective of the food. $$ La Tomatina (D5) ul. Krucza 47A, tel. 22 625 1047 latomatina. pl Calamitous, slapstick service and accusations pointing to the overuse of readymade ingredients shouldn’t detract from good pizzas served in modern interiors of stark white walls and concrete floors. Our spicy tiger prawn spaghetti was also okay, even if the presentation looked like a student had cooked it. $ Mąka i Woda (D4) ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 91 87 Purists applaud an approach that uses a custommade oven from Naples and imported ingredients such as 00 Caputo flour and DOP certified San Marzano tomatoes.

Scrupulously authentic, it’s no wonder that it’s packed to the gunnels every night of the

week – even their Facebook page warns of 20-minute waiting times for a table alone.

Learning this, some storm off in a huff – they need their heads checked, for this is Warsaw’s best pizza. $ Ristorante San Lorenzo (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 36, tel. 22 652 1616, sanlorenzo.pl Adorned with crisp, starched linen and Roman frescos this space is almost magisterial in design. The Tuscan menu is flawless and well worth the rather hefty bill.

The wine bar on the ground floor features the same standards at a snip of the price, and it’s here you’ll find Italian natives cheering the Serie A football. Now also on Żurawia 6/12, only with a more modish design clearly targeted at a slightly younger audience. $$ Sexy Duck Pl. Konstytucji 3, tel. 22 400 3737 Marketing themselves as a ‘craft Italian kitchen’, Sexy Duck make a song and dance about artisan this and that while never justifying their own hyperbole. Were they not so keen to tell you otherwise, you’d mistake the food as being something from a mid-market high street chain enterprise. But if their pizza never goes beyond ordinary, that’s done nothing to keep trade from being brisk. Inside interiors filled with aged, raw materials, find a new generation of diners making the most of the low, low prices. $ Si (C3) ul. Marszałkowska 115 From the makers of Secado comes a new downtown venture: Si, a fun Italian stop with homemade pasta, an array of pizza and a hefty choice of cocktails.

Geared towards good times, a list of rotating daily offers has done a fair job of drumming up trade. $$

YOU’VE TRIED ALL THE REST, NOW TRY THE BEST!

Newly Opened!

Le Cedre Lounge Grzybowska 5A Tel 22 299 7299

Le Cedre 61

(opposite the zoo) Al. Solidarności 61, Praga Tel 22 670 1166

japanese & sushi Benihana (C4) ul. Twarda 2/4, benihanapoland.com Fire, flash, show and sizzle: the Benihana experience merges cooking with cabaret with diners sat ringside around teppanyaki grills.

These cooking stations are the stage for the Benihana crew to demonstrate their riveting range of nifty knifework and daredevil antics.

Outside of the realm of the grill, the sushi is also strikes the right spot. $$ Izumi Sushi ul. Mokotowska 17 (pl. Zbawiciela), tel.

Le Cedre 84

(opposite the court) Al. Solidarności 84 Tel 22 618 8999

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22 825 7950, izumisushi.eu The original location never ceases to amaze with its sushi, though it’s the addition on Biały Kamień that really gets people talking. Here it’s not just the food that wows, but the interiors: a huge venue whose open plan doubles as an indoor forest – you need to see it to believe it. $$ Kago Sushi ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki), kagosushi. pl A place of such merit that it’s worth bludgeoning your way through the surging crowds of off-duty lawyers and second rate ‘slebs. A side project from the team behind Izumi, portioning here is strict and skimpy, but the precision, attention to detail and flavors are second to none. Bills creep up fast as you opt for ‘just one more nigiri’, but such is the brilliance that complaints are rare. $$ Omami (D5) ul. Mokotowska 29 (enter from Krucza) Sushi has been side-lined and ramen is rising.

Opened a few months ago, Omami promise four types of ramen, not to mention steamed buns and other budget-minded Japanese options. $ Sakana Sushi Bar ul. Burakowska 5/7 tel. 22 636 0505, ul. Moliera 4/6, tel. 22 826 5958, & ul.

Wąwozowa 6, lok.10B, tel. 22 498 8899, sakana.pl Sushi as a fashion statement?

That’s what you find in Sakana, a place where the glam and the great of Warsaw peacock around with feathers on display. Ignoring the

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general vanity and unpleasantness, one can’t help but applaud the sushi – if there was one winner in the sushi wars of the noughties, then Sakana was it. $$ Sato Gotuje ul. Pawińskiego 24 Ochota’s culinary drought is over, and in some style as well. While the plain interiors look bald and boring, the cooking of Satoru Yaegashi is all art and precision: braised duck breast with mustard; fried sardines with roasted sesame seeds; and heaps of homemade udon in warming fish broth. Often outstanding, it’s little wonder that people are arriving in droves from all across town: bookings aren’t mandatory, but they’re definitely advised. $$

In truth, it’s not hard to see what the fuss is about: occupying a cool, almost industriallooking spot not far from the Rising Museum, Shoku offers an excellent menu of Asian-style tapas and small plates inside a buzzy background that’s never short of custom. The tuna steak is recommended. $$ Sushi Zushi (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 420 3373, sushizushi.pl The mania for sushi is in recess, and that’s a good thing – the rogue operators are dead or dying off, and are survived by the best. And make no mistake, Sushi Zushi continue to be one of the No. 1 ex-pat choices. Appreciated by a stunning crowd, the rolls are often bold, creative and always astonishingly fresh. $$

Shabu Shabu Hot Pot (D6) ul. Mokotowska 27, tel. 535 685 750, shabu-shabu.pl Each table has its own set of hot pots installed and once you choose your broth and extras, you are the master of your own culinary destiny. We chose some seafood and some greens and were served a dish that was not quite a pad thai, but incredibly tasty all the same. A simple meal, but satisfying nonetheless. $$

Tomo (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2344, tomo. pl While Warsaw’s other sushi stops gather cobwebs Tomo packs out each night – that should say enough. With the maki, sushi and sashimi bobbing past on wooden platters, this place aims for fast, maximum turnover without ever making the diner feel second best. $$

Shoku (A4) ul. Karolkowa 30, shoku.pl In local terms, this has to be amongst the most blogged about restaurants of the year thus far. While it actually opened several months back, it’s only now that the place is gathering steam and getting recognized thanks to word-of-mouth.

Uki Uki (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, tel. 728 827 705, ukiuki.pl How much do the locals appreciate Warsaw’s original udon bar? Enough to queue outside the door? That’s right. Dining is a close quarters experience here, but is done so without complaint: that electric pasta maker

turns out noodles of such chewy goodness that everyone leaves beaming. $$ Wabu Pl. Europejski 2 (Warsaw Spire), wabu.pl Sushi becomes a heaven’s gate spiritual experience in Wabu with the evening passing in a blur of beautiful compositions, of silky slithers of fish crowned with expert pinches of this, and little brush strokes of that. That’s all elevated even further by deliciously upscale interiors befitting of the Spire location. $$$ Wasabi Pl. Piłsudskiego 2, tel. 22 314 6963, restauracjawasabi.pl Rated as one of the best value for money deals on sushi you’ll find in the city, the sets offer phenomenally good value. Sushi master Masahiro Ueyama knows all the tricks in his book, and his green tea tiramisu is a surprising finish.

jewish Florentin (E4) ul. Smolna 40, fb.com/FlorentinWarszawa A quite beautiful, pale-colored dining room that boldly presents the cuisine of modern day Israel. High on North African twists and turns, there’s a creativity at work here that marks Florentin out as one of the most exciting openings in recent times: if in doubt, the veal with harissa, grilled pepper and pear puree is a winning order that deserves full attention.

Onto dessert, and make space for the basil

panna cotta served with ‘tomato jam’. $$ Pod Samsonem (C1) ul. Freta 3/5, tel. 22 831 1788, podsamsonem.pl Operating since the 1950s – crazy when you think about it. This is the place for an ordinary meal in an ordinary space. The menu mixes aspects of Polish and Jewish cooking, and fails to do a good job of either. $ Tel Aviv (D5) ul. Poznanska 11, restauracjatelaviv.pl Although this multicultural melting pot is best-known for its Israeli street food, it’s the shift towards ‘vegan fine dining’ that has really caught the attention. $$

korean Miss Kimchi (B4) ul. Żelazna 58/62, tel. 570 186 066 Cheap and cheerful Korean street food served in a small, steamy space that’s frequently packed to the rafters. Box sets come piled high with meat, rice and veg. The spotlight falls on the bibimbap, a satisfying mess of shredded veg, lively spices, a fried egg and beef bulgogi.

This is replenishment in its truest form. $ Onggi (D2) ul. Moliera 2 Positive transformations aren’t confined to Ramsay’s Kitchen Nightmares: after a dreadful start characterized by bland, claggy dishes, this Korean restaurant has spun a U-turn that’s left the competition

reeling. The menu is daunting in size, but contains wildly interesting finds such as a streaky bacon stir fry, spicy pickled Daikon radish and lotus root simmered in soy sauce. $$ Sora (A4) ul. Wronia 45 Buoyed by a surge in Korean expat numbers, Korena cuisine found itself cresting in 2016. Yet despite the increasingly competitive market, Sora are commonly accepted as the rulers of the roost. The tabletop BBQ sets are an essential order and ideal for the shared bonding experience.

It’s even better with copious quantaties of Makkoli wine. $$

latin & spanish Casa Pablo (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5A, tel. 22 324 5781, casapablo.pl “We give Spanish food a new twist,” declares chef Gonzalo de Salas, which explains why, in between pungent cheeses and acorn-fed Bellota ham, we find ourselves demolishing a variety of dishes that buck all notions of tradition: as a starter the beetroot-marinated salmon served with wasabi emulsion is a fine example of this.

With de Salas performing balletic tricks in the kitchen, Casa Pablo presents a masterful menu that ripples with adventure. $$ Ceviche Bar (C4) ul. Twarda 4, cevichebar.pl Created by the award-winning Martin Gimenez Castro, War-

w

The award-winning Enoteka Polska welcomes guests to the heart of Warsaw’s historic New Town. A perfect combo of restaurant, wine bar and wine store, aside from offering excellent Italian cuisine, we are a renowned importer with a portfolio of prestigious wine labels from across Europe. Our direct import policy allows guests to enjoy outstanding value for money.

Rynek Nowego Miasta 13/15, enotekapolska.pl tel. 882 048 012 www.warsawinsider.pl

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saw’s first specialist ceviche bar serves up various interpretations of this classic raw fish dish: the corvina is an explosion of peppy, citrusy tastes and leaves you in no doubt why some are tipping ceviche to become as big as sushi. Try for yourself inside a contemporary space in which the dining area merges seamlessly with a kitchen decorated with a mural of Maradona. $$ Mojo Picon ul. Prosta 53, mojopicon.pl Smart and atmospheric yet still pleasingly casual, the early feedback has been healthy. Specializing

in Hispanic cuisine, especially that of the Canary Islands, specific strengths include a broad selection of Spanish wines, artfully composed tapas and a paella for the purists.

A smaller operation the size of a mouse hole operates on Poznanska. $$ Tapas Gastrobar (A4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 251 1310, tapasbar.pl The popular practice is to order so many plates and bottles that the table becomes a Magic Eye of kaleidoscope patterns. A great place for sharing and general interaction, the ambiance and quality belies

the corporate anonymity of the location.

Though the gazapcho is first class its bettered by the patatas bravos: fried potatoes in a ballsy tomato sauce. $$ Restaurante Bunuel (H4) ul. Walecznych 61, tel. 798 659 554, bunuelrestauracja.com Spanish-owned Bunuel has left many in raptures. Simple interiors focus attention on the food, which in this case involves a crisp gazpacho that gets you missing summer, and grilled meats that leave many in a swoon. $$

mexican Dos Tacos (D4) ul. Jasna 22, tel. 22 243 4618, dostacos.pl Who doesn’t like asking for something that’s ‘under the counter’. In the case of Dos Tacos, doing so means inquiring about their range of ‘salsa clandestinas’: extra hot sauces designed for reckless thrill-seekers. But the true secret weapon at Dos Tacos is Isabel Balderas, a Mexican chef that has mastered the bright, bold tastes of her native country.

This cuisine has enjoyed a breakout year in Warsaw, but while the millennials clamor over new food trucks and funky little start-ups, Dos Tacos is a timely reminder that the old guard sometimes know best. $$ Gringo Bar (E9) ul. Odolańska 15, tel. 22 848 9523, gringobar.pl A Mexican wave is upon us, and high time too. After years of suffering frozen ingredients, timid flavors and daft Mariachi music to persuade us it’s all authentic, a raft of new cut-price eateries are showing the rest how it’s done. Cooked and folded by fist bumping lads in back-to-front caps and baggy t-shirts, the food at Gringo is fiery, fresh and full of zing. There are detractors who claim this is a Polonized version of this cuisine, but the informal Gringo remains one of the market leaders. $ La Sirena (D5) ul. Piękna 54 Creamy guacamole the color of Kermit; cocktails that are both vicious and delicious; and drunken beans full of heart and vim. But La Sirena gets even better, particularly with the short ribs burrito and a readjusted ‘almost death salsa’ that’s learned to say POW. Add to this a macheteladen interior that draws inspiration from the ultra-violent films of Danny Trejo, and you understand why this tiny, backstreet cantina

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has become the talk of the town. At no point in its history has Warsaw enjoyed better Mexican food. $$ Urban Burritos (D6) ul. Piękna 22, urbanburritos.pl It’s here, in this unassuming subterranean world, that people gather for what is being hyped as Warsaw’s top burrito. Offering fillings of pork, beef, chicken and Portobello mushroom, wraps come expertly constructed and served with salsas that sing with gusto. Set within shouting distance of the US Embassy, peak times see Urban Burritos fill to the seams with America’s finest. $

middle eastern Falafel Bejrut Moliera 8 (D2) ul. Moliera 8 So what would you prefer – an underperforming steakhouse or what’s commonly regarded as the best falafel Warsaw has ever seen? In all truth, polls are closed on that one. Taking the place of the

defunct Muu Muu restaurant, Falafel Bejrut have grown from life as a ‘food bike’ outside Hala Mirowska, to a runaway juggernaut in the heart of Warsaw. Both the falafel and hummus are exceptional, and you’ll find their latest venue also serving artisanal vegan ice cream from Vegestacja. $ Le Cedre (E1) Al. Solidarności 61, tel.

22 670 1166, www. lecedre.pl With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops. $$ Le Cedre 84 (B3) Al. Solidarności 84, tel. 22 618 8999, lecedre.pl Le Cedre just keep on getting

it right. Authenticity is key in this chainlette (well, there’s another across the river), as you’ll discover when talking to Tony, the Lebanese owner. To see the diversity of this cuisine, order the balbaak (six cold starters) or the byblos (six hot). And food aside, it’s the atmosphere that carries them that extra yard: the whole philosophy of this cuisine is to share and share alike, making it a uniquely engaging experience when dining with friends. $$ Le Cedre Lounge ul. Grzybowska 5A, lecedre.pl Furnished in voluptuous Middle Eastern style, the latest subsidiary of the Le Cedre empire bursts with fancy sheesha pipes, extravagant rugs and shimmery satin drapes. It’s a look that’s fun, familiar, intimate and warm. Less encyclopedic than that of its two sister ventures, Le Cedre Lounge has a slimmer menu that introduces several new tastes to fans of Lebanese cuisine. Helplessly more-ish, it’s food that’s in line with the vibey atmosphere and casual air. $$

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Shuk ul. Grójecka 127 Located behind Hala Banacha in this gradually blooming district of Warsaw, SHUK’s certainly worth the tram ride if you’re not a native Ochotian. An offshoot of the acclaimed Mezze, highlights on our visit included a well-seasoned Arabic soup with lentils and spinach followed by a skillet of fried oyster mushrooms cooked with onions and served alongside harissa topped with rose petals. You’re looking at quite a special place that realigns your mojo on a Warsaw winter’s day. $ Sokotra (D5) ul. Wilcza 27, tel. 22 270 2766, sokotra. pl ICasting a warm, steamy glow over this corner of Wilcza, Sokotra reveals itself as a well-designed nook with a rough, urban edge: telegraph poles, bare bulbs and exposed lumps of concrete. Yemeni dishes are available though it’s the Indian food that shines – the Madras is intense, pungent and suitably fiery. $$

polish

Ale Gloria (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7080, alegloria.pl Who said romance was dead?

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Here wedding white colors are fused with a strawberry motif inside this gourmet fave.

Keeping patrons returning are aromatic dishes with a contemporary twist – try the duck in rose sauce. $$$ Belvedere Łazienki Królewskie ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. 22 558 6701, belvedere. com.pl Set in an imperial age glass orangery, it’s festooned with intricate latticework and botanical exotica. The updated interiors are the work of acclaimed set designer Boris Kudlicka, and lend a fresh, contemporary tone that goes hand in hand with the menu.

But behind the gels and emulsions and pretty little swirls, this is cooking of substantial depth; it’s cooking that takes you to the very soul of Polish nature. $$$ Bez Gwiazdek (E3) ul. Wiślana 8, bezgwiazdek.com.pl Hide the white tablecloth! One of the more discernible trends of 2016 saw chefs attempt to replicate fine dining standards but in casual surrounds.

Few are more qualified to do so than Robert Trzópek, a man whose résumé includes experience gained in Noma and El Bulli. Seeking to ‘reinterpret forgotten Polish cuisine’, his tasting menu at Bez Gwiazdek leaves no doubt why local food fans repeat his name with reverence and awe. For this restaurant, 2017 promises to get even bigger. $$ Czerwony Wieprz (Red Hog) (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 22 850 3144 An amusing restaurant that looks back at communism

through a rose-tinted lens. Under the glowering gaze of commie tyrants, staff dressed like obedient members of the party’s Youth League deliver hefty dishes from a cheeky menu that is in itself a collector’s item. $$

Delicja Polska (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 64, tel. 22 826 4770, delicjapolska.pl Looking stately (pink bows, gilt touches and immaculate linen) but never stuffy, Delicja have a modern Polish menu that includes sous-vide salmon marinated in beetroot leaves, then topped with horseradish foam and dill emulsion.

Brilliant. But then so was everything else we tried, including the exquisite seasoned roast beef. $$ Dom Polski (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 2432, restauracjadompolski.pl Almost like it was designed for the manor born, Dom Polski has the rarefied atmosphere of a country retreat: bow-tied staff who click their heels, decorative antiques and a menu that’s a sumptuous anthology of posh Polish cooking.

When you need to give visitors a sense of classic Warsaw, Dom Polski is the first out of the hat. $$$ Dom Polski Belwederska (F8) ul. Belwederska 18A, tel. 22 840 5060,

restauracjadompolski.pl Accessed via curling pathways and bursting shrubs this restaurant conjures images of an aristocrat’s manor. The air of privilege matches a menu that’s rich in fanciful classics such as their signature goose. Elegant and exquisite, consider it your default choice for a taste of true Poland. $$ Elixir by Dom Wódki (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl There are some who call the food here ‘deconstructed Polish’. In actuality, ‘reconstructed’ would be closer to the mark. Chef Michał Tkaczyk has taken local classics and redrafted the recipes with the swoosh of a contemporary pen. The outcome is a pleasure from start to finish: a life affirming żurek, a tartar that could fulfill ambassadorial duties for Poland, and a handsome beef tenderloin sprinkled with crispy potato shavings. Thoughtful pairings with lesser-known, boutique vodkas add another dimension that serves to complete this pleasing, patriotic adventure. $$ Folk Gospoda (B3) ul. Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605 If you missed the last train to Zakopane, then a night in Folk Gospoda is the next best thing.

Kitted out like a typical tavern in the Tatras, it’s a good-humored celebration of mountainslope traditions: heaps of meat and lard with plenty of vodka and song in between. $$ Grunt i Woda Bulwar Flotylli Wiślanej, gruntiwoda.waw.pl An appealing wood-framed construction with

hard hitting cocktails and a thoughtful menu that utilizes ingredients grown in their own garden. Full review next issue. $$ Inny Wymiar ul. Świętokrzyska 14 Highly imaginative Polish cuisine served inside intriguing interiors. Much blogged about since opening, it’s been noted by many as one to watch. Full review coming soon. $$ Kafe Zielony Niedzwiedź (E4) ul. Smolna 4, tel. 731 996 006, kafezn.pl Exceeding all expectations in their second year, the Green Bear has turned into the mothership for all things relating to slow food: if in doubt, check the menu, an ode to provenance that comes complete with detailed biographies of their suppliers.

Using creative techniques, this restaurant modernizes Polish food and rolls it out inside a stylish building popular with people who look like they might well be famous.

Incidentally, the sea buckthorn cream was our top dessert of 2015. $$ Kieliszki na Próżnej (C3) ul. Próżna 12, tel. 501 764 674, kieliszkinaproznej.pl You’ll find Kieliszki na Próżnej, the latest restaurant to mark the rehabilitation of Próżna, so named after the 1,116 wineglasses that hang tantalizingly over the bar. As an anchor feature the suspended glassware is arresting, and equaled only by a long stretch of wall art doodled by Mariusz Tarkawian. The food matches up to the interi-

ors, with a modern Polish menu that – on our visit – involved a thick, brilliantly spreadable foie gras pate, a thick slab of brawn and a delicate piece of moist Baltic cod. It’s pure seasonal comfort. $$ Kmicic (D1) ul. Piwna 27, kmicicrestauracja.pl Aiming to evoke the spirit of pre-war Warsaw, Kmicic is something of a veteran on the Old Town circuit, and as such a perennial favorite of passing tourists. The menu leans heavily towards traditional and is noted for its game including pheasant, venison and boar. $$ Mała Polana Smaków (F9) ul. Belwederska 13/44, tel. 22 400 8048, polanasmakow.pl Put simply, it works on every level: from the service to the space – outside, a terrace featuring upcycled crates overlooking Morskie Oko, and on the inside, a cute little room with woodsy bits and big glass jars of mystery ingredients. It’s casual, but still fit for more serious roles: e.g. girlfriend night. And the food: exceptional.

Lots of seasonally changing choices that on our visit meant salmon sausage matched with beetroot and horseradish sauce along with pinches of lavender and fennel. $$ BEST WAWA 2016 “Modern Polish” Opasły Tom (E4) ul. Foksal 17, kregliccy.pl Sneaked off a lively side street, guests duck down into a chain of two narrow-ish chambers that, whilst not exactly casual, feel comfortable and familiar.

PRESENTING THE MOST BEAUTIFUL RESTAURANT IN POLAND

Al. Ujazdowskie 24, tel. 22 629 2312, www.podgigantami.pl

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Reliant on the freshest local ingredients around, this restaurant’s strategy places an onus on seasonality whilst remaining fiercely creative. $$ Papu (D9) al. Niepodległości 132/136, tel. 22 856 7788, restauracjapapu.pl Evoking the spirit of a gentleman’s manor, Papu looks every inch the classic Polish restaurant.

Reliant on regional produce from mom & pop farmsteads, chef Bartek Kędra’s menu does a gold carat job of enhancing oldfashioned recipes through the use of modern techniques. $$ Prasowy (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16 Delicate diners turn their back on milk bars, yet this canteenstyle phenomenon, with its history rooted in communism, has enjoyed a remarkable renaissance and a freshly found popularity with a new generation. Sure, the food is an acquired taste and best described using words like ‘basic’, ‘bland’ and ‘honest’, but

Prasowy gets our vote for a cool design that’s seen the 1954 interiors sensitively updated. $

Restauracja Pod Gigantami (E5) Al. Ujadowskie 24, tel. 22 629 2312, podgigantami.pl All pomp and splendor, huge portraits of monarchs in ermine stare down from the walls; pristine parquet floors gently creak underfoot; from another chamber, the sound of clinking glasses whispers through the air. Yet as much as the interior makes an impact it fails to steal the show. That belongs to Paweł Zieliński, a chef whose biography includes a stint at the Michelin starred L’Ecrivain in Dublin.

Now back in Poland, his menu is a patriotic proclamation of all that is good. It’s here the Insider enjoyed it’s favorite żurek of 2016.

For mains, don’t miss duck with cherry and cranberry sauce. $$$

Restauracja Polska “Różana” (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 22 848 1225, restauracjarozana.com.pl The rarified atmosphere of Różana is a pleasure indeed. Close to the frontline of Mokotów / Śródmieście, you’d never guess the proximity of the center.

Seated in their garden, one feels removed from the city – a fountain burbles quietly in the background, starlings hop around the trees. From the inside, one hears the distant tinkle of the house pianist. Just being here is a thrill in itself, and the food is a Polish dining extravaganza served from the top table: farmhouse duck, saddle of venison, etc. $$ Słoik (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 600 396 688, restauracjasloik.pl Jarheads will love Słoik, a place lined with glass jars brimming with colorful ingredients and bright preserves. Find natural Polish produce and traditional-sounding dishes treated with a careful and contemporary hand. The approach pits modernist against classic, and the winner is, well, you.

THE DELICIOUS WORLD OF POLISH CUISINE Discover the delicious world of Polish cuisine at Specjały Regionalne. We source our produce from family-run farms so only the most authentic tastes end up on your table. We also offer classes and workshops that reveal the secrets of the Polish pantry!

44 Nowy Swiat Street, Warsaw +48 662 254 215 restauracja@specjalyregionalne.pl, www.specjalyregionalne.pl

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This is traditional Polish food updated for the discerning, latter day palate – and it’s really quite something. $ Opasły Tom (F4) ul. Solec 44, tel. 798 363 996, solec.waw. pl Solec 44 does nothing if not challenge gastronomic norms. Found on the upper floor of a shabby Communist pavilion, the versatility of this place makes it great to hang out with friends over beer and board games: it’s not often you find faces from the TV in the same room as student types, but that’s the kind of inclusive atmosphere here. The biggest draw though is the chef, Aleksander Baron. Combing the farms and forests of Poland for ingredients, his obsession with old baroque recipes, nose-to-tail cooking and forgotten fermentation processes is inspiring to all who adore cooking. $$

Specjały Regionalne (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 44, specjalyregionalne.pl To step across the threshold is to leave Warsaw behind: mimicking the look of a rural pantry, Specjały is awash with provincial craft work and traditional dress. A truly ethnographic journey, the menu whisks diners across Poland with its choice of classic dishes and regional ingredients: there is heavy, meaty soup served in a hollowed out hunk of bread; snails farmed in Warmia; and a warming beef goulash that hugs the soul. The commitment to small town Poland extends to the alcohol, and no visit is complete without a stiffening drop of vodka. $$ Stary Dom ul. Puławska 104/106, tel. 22 646 4208, restauracjastarydom.pl A classic restaurant in style and history: back in the day it was a favorite haunt of jockeys and race goers from the horse track nearby. Pre-war recipes form the basis of the menu, with the team using seasonal produce and the latest technology to bring out its best. $$

13, tel. 22 635 61 09, & ul. Wańkowicza 1, CH Arkadia, zapiecek.eu Seven Warsaw locales, with our favorite found in the vaulted passages of Świętojańska. The menu is highly traditional, with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’. It’s for the pierogi though for which they’re famous; find approx. fifty types delivered by servers dressed like saucy country maids. $ Warszawski Sen By Mateusz Gessler ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki), mateuszgessler.com.pl A quite stunning restaurant dominated by dark geometric patterns and the installations and ideas of guerilla artist Tomasz Górnicki. Once you’ve caught your breath and snapped off a few pics for your Instagram, settle in for a menu that gives Polish ingredients a highly contemporary treatment. If you thought Hala Koszyki was buzzing, then this edgy space is perhaps its biggest buzz of all.

Zielnik (D10) ul. Odyńca 15, tel. 22 844 3500, restauracjazielnik.pl A quiet Mokotów side street is the setting for this little secret. In it, flowers, lots of them, and a warming wood interior just right for winter. In summer, head instead to their glorious garden across the street in the park: adding a sophisticated twist to the holy grill, the skewered lamb is to die for. $$

‘Simplicity, elegance and atmosphere’

Cafe • Wine Bar • Restaurant • Whisky Bar • Wine Cellar ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 515 037 001 www.hoza.warszawa.pl www.facebook.com/hoza25 Open 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-21:00

russian Skamiejka ul. Ząbkowska 37, tel. 512 123 967, fb.com/ skamiejka As a social point, this family-run restaurant works incredibly well. Located at the far end of Ząbkowska, it’s a place filled with assorted clutter and Russian bits and pieces: album covers, books, jars of pickles and jumble sale finds. The welcome is second-to-none, while beverages include a wide range of vodka and beer from the former Soviet-bloc nations. The food though is a bit of a massacre. Take the zharkoe: what should be a thick and hefty pot roast is limp and placid and empty of taste.

scandinavian Zapiecek Locations inc. ul. Nowy Świat 64, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska

Nabo ul. Zakręt 8, tel. 22 842 0256, nabocafe. pl The décor is, we’re told, typical Danish cafe – bold open windows, simple lines, high www.warsawinsider.pl

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shelves filled with books and games on the table. But what is Danish food? There’s Old Danish on the menu: meatballs and open face sandwiches with meat and fish in various textural configurations and then there’s New Danish: an emerging trend towards fresh, seasonal food (no microwave oven at Nabo), with locally sourced and innovatively concocted ingredients. $$

seafood Lokal na Rybę (D9) ul. Kwiatowa 1/3/4, fb.com/lokalnarybe Seafood doesn’t play a particularly distinguished role in Warsaw’s culinary history, so the opening of a good fish restaurant tends to get the locals talking. But Lokal isn’t just good, it goes several steps beyond. Open just three days a week (Thu-Sat, evenings only), the rotating menu presents a handful of daily choices against a simple, no pretence interior that’s often packed solid – reservations come recommended, as do the mussel dishes. $$ U Rysia (C4) ul. Marszałkowska 140 (enter from ul. Rysia), urysia.com.pl Devoid of frills bar a glowing neon sign and a brooding mural of Jesus, it looks like a Polish fish restaurant should – basic but with an undercurrent of bustle that keeps the mood bright. It tastes like the real thing as well. Sourcing their catch from the freshwater lakes of northern Poland, the offer is divided into fish that have been smoked,

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steamed, fried or baked. Check out the perch ‘chips’ fried in batter. $

goats, as well as import brands from Italy, France and the Netherlands.

Zmiana Klimatu (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, zmianaklimatu.pl An interesting looking restaurant that affords diners the chance to climb up some steps and eat inside a boat. The food, frankly, is a different league: a thick, throbbing lemon soup poured carefully over a dust of crayfish; two slithers of seabass layered onto a creamy black risotto; and steak served under a glass dome billowing with Cherrywood smoke.

Everything we tried was stunning. $$

Forteca Kregliccy ul. Zakroczymska 12, kregliccy.eu/forteca Spot the stars of Warsaw’s restaurant scene perusing the stalls at this weekly farmers’ market. Held each Wednesday, look for Pan Ziółko, Poland’s first celebrity farmer (!), Portobello’s from the country’s only organic mushroom farm and the magical yogurts from Mleczna Droga Manufaktura Serów.

specialty food shops Bazar Olkuska (E10) ul. Olkuska 12 Once a sad little side street, Olkuska has evolved to become just about the worst kept secret in Warsaw. Home to the city’s top eco-market, trips here end with shopping bags filled with French cheeses, Italian hams, Hungarian sausages and fresh fruit and veg.

Bio Bazar (B4) ul. Żelazna 51/53, tel. 22 318 8855, open Wed, Fri & Sat (see website for details), biobazar.org.pl Fruit and veg in the first warehouse, some of it imported from as far as Argentina. In the second warehouse, find organic cheese varieties from sheep and

steak houses

Beef n’ Pepper (C5) ul. Nowogrodzka 47A, tel. 731 307 377, beefandpepper.pl A social space that encourages friends to gather and make merry over big meaty courses. Served on heavy tree stump plates, steaks here use Polish Angus aged for a 28-day period. If you’re into the concept of sharing with your fellow man, then the Beef n’Pepper plate offers a pile of everything: wings, ribs, steak. $$ Butchery & Wine (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 502 3118, butcheryandwine.pl The Sarf London-born Bertha oven has revolutionized the way steak is cooked,

retaining moisture in a way no-one thought possible. Expect robust pieces of animal full of big, brawny tastes, but there’s so much more than just meat: starters involve a sea bass ceviche that pings with citrusy flavor not to mention more-ish pork crackling that pop like fire bangers in the mouth. A place of energy and ambition, it’s a great mix of both new and classic. Bookings advised. $$

challenge you to find better. During the week opt instead for his South American inspired dishes. Salto has the hallmarks of a success story, and under Castro’s captaincy that’s a certainty to happen. $$$ BEST WAWA 2015 “Foreign Chef”

Ed Red Warszawa Pl. Mirowski 1, edred.pl You can tell they’re serious about their meat just by looking at the starters: big, juicy marrow bones, mountain oysters, blood sausage and calf’s brain. The steaks are the calling card though, and here you’ll find them dry aged and consumed with the aid of hunting knives. The desserts seem a lumpy afterthought, but they get enough right elsewhere (even decent craft beer at the bar) to keep that little more than a mild annoyance. $$

Naam Thai ul. Saska 16, tel. 505 110 100, naam.pl An anonymous design and out-of-town location never stopped guests flocking here. But that stands to change after the departure of chef Chanunkan Duangkumma. What was Warsaw’s best Thai now finds itself facing the biggest challenge of its existence: recent reports have not been the kindest. $$

Hoża (D5) ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 603 778 275, hoza. warszawa.pl Wine and steak: it sounds so simple, but Hoża have taken two simple pleasures to another level. It’s an ebullient space with service right out of charm school, and a kitchen team with a real knowledge of cows. A red-blooded affair, the menu is a steak sensation and well paired with a handpicked wine list. $$ Merliniego 5 (E10) ul. Merliniego 5, tel. 22 646 0810, merliniego5.pl A classic looking steakhouse that swirls in shadow, brickwork and elegant touches, it’s a place to immerse yourself in an atmosphere that’s all surreptitious conversation and distant clinking glasses.

The steaks are out-of-this world, with USDA prime beef from New York’s legendary Ottomanelli & Sons and Scottish beef from London’s Smithfield Market. On our last visit we splurged on the Grade 9+ wagyu ‘kobe’ rib-eye and found ourselves eating the steak of a lifetime. Simply amazing. $$$

Salto (C6) ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8771, saltorestauracja.pl When Martin Gimenez Castro scooped top prize in the Top Chef program it simply confirmed what foodies had known for years: that this is a man of some talent. Now leading the kitchen in Salto, the highlight of Castro’s menu is undoubtedly the ‘steak weekends’. We

thai

STEAKHOUSE /BAR

Thai Me Up (E4) ul. Foksal 16, thaimeup.pl Taking the spot once occupied by Papaya, Thai Me Up offers up a far more informal experience than the former, something understood by one glance at the interior: gone are the gloss finishes of yesteryear, replaced by something far more casual, fun and cluttered (check the monkey lights!). As for the food, that succeeds in bringing the fresh, snappy tastes of Asia to Foksal. The wok dishes are a forte and deserve special attention. $$ Thai Thai (C2) Pl. Teatralny 3, tel. 601 818 283, thaithai.pl In terms of design it’s little short of perfect: gold vaulted interiors lend a muted glow to a largely black on black space while serene looking Buddha’s peer on the diners below.

As for the food, that’s one big success story with plenty of lively flavors and dynamic colors. The Tom Yang Kung, a deeply nourishing fish broth that awakens the senses with a sharp, spicy jolt, is a must! $$ Thaisty (C2) Pl. Bankowy 4, tel. 730 000 024, thaisty. pl The coup here has been the recruitment of Chanunkan Duangkumma, Warsaw’s favorite Thai chef. The menu has street food inspirations and also includes several recipes passed down Duangkumma’s family line: consider the BBQ beef skewers essential.

Vivid colors and a busy open kitchen lend the place a happy buzz that lasts through the day. $$ Why Thai (E5) ul. Wiejska 13, tel. 22 625 7698, whythai.

Nowogrodzka 47a www.beefandpepper.pl reservation: (+48) 785 025 025 Open 7 days a week Monday-Saturday: 12.00-24.00 Sunday: 12.00-23.00

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pl A calming, almost holistic interior sets the tone for a meal dominated by the rich and aromatic tastes of Thailand. For a lively, spicy start begin with a mango and cashew salad, before moving forward and onto their celebrated curries. Imported chefs keep the flavors authentic, with the pad Thai being something of a house favorite. $ Wi-Taj (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 4 Despite the name, it’s actually the cuisine of Vietnam that is the dominant entity in this restaurant. There is the odd moment of madness (glazed cherries appearing at random), but in general Wi-Taj does a grand job of representing a kitchen that hasn’t always enjoyed the greatest publicity in Warsaw. The crunchy, perky nem are a fine way to start, but it’s the steaming bowls of pho that have this Insider promising to return. As for prices, these rarely climb north of zł. 30.

vegan & wholefood Edamame Vegan Sushi (D5) ul. Wilcza 11, edamame.pl Sushi without its star ingredient sounds ridiculous, but this vegan sushi joint manages to out-manoeuver its traditional competitors by replacing belowpar fish with fresh, vegetarian produce: sugar snap peas, radish, carrots, asparagus, etc.

The results are both magical and addictive, and leave you wondering if vegan sushi stands to be Warsaw’s next trend. $$ Krowazywa (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 27/35, tel. 881 777 894 ul. Hoża 29/31, krowarzywa.pl ul. Hoża 29/31 Packed with girls wearing skating clothes and moon boots, this burgery makes a big boast that their whole menu is 100% plant-based and their food compiled using ‘the best, freshest, unprocessed and full-balanced ingredients.’ The Warzywex, a burger composed of marinated and grilled slices of local veg, is an absolute winner. $ Lokal Vegan Bistro (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, 517 615 122 Aside from a small menu consisting of more standard vegan offers, Lokal keep Homer Simpson characters in mind with regular guest slots for street food that’s given a full vegan makeover. Offhand, that’s meant vegan kebabs, cheesesteaks, burgers and zapiekanka, all of

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which have been pretty damn good. $ Loving Hut (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 41A, tel. 888 555 568, lovinghut.waw.pl What looks like just another Vietnamese greasy spoon is, in fact, part of a global chain backed by a spiritual master. The reading material is creepy and cultish, but the vegan food is good if you’re that way inclined. Now also found downtown on Waryńskiego 3. $ Momencik (D5) ul. Poznańska 16 Vegan burritos may sound wrong, but at Momencik they’re every bit as good as anything you’ll be used to. The only difference is that you won’t leave feeling like you’ve eaten a sack of socks: on the contrary, it’s got all the perky flavor that Mexican food should have, but none of the unpleasant post-meal bloaty bubbles. And it’s cheap!

Diners fork out less than zł. 22 for a lunch deal that includes homemade lemonade, a burrito and soup of the day: it’s your lucky day if that happens to be their tomato soup. $ Vegan Pizza (D5) ul. Poznańska 7, veganpizza.pl While the place lacks effort on the design front (a plain room with local radio piped around), the pizza is pretty good. There’s 24 to pick from, and while it’s not love at first bite, there’s a tendency to get strangely hooked by the new tastes and alien sensations. Definitely an interesting departure from the high street pizzerias. Recommended: Italian Madness – melty cheese and herby bursts of pesto. $ Veg Deli (E3) ul. Radna 14 An entrance beset with candles, plant pots and seasonal veg charms people in, and they tend to stay on to dine on creative vegetarian options that nearly always hit the spot. The tacos are a bit of a disappointment, but the quinoa burger is fabulous, and the homemade Russian pierogi an absolute highlight. Even committed meat eaters recognize there’s something special going on here. $$ Weranda Bistro (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki) Warmly decorated with shrubbery and dangling paper decoys, Weranda’s design is thoughtful enough to be in equilibrium with the wider Koszyki setting, yet sufficiently distinct to stand apart from the crowd. Kudos, as well, to the food. Celebrated for their salads, don’t expect to be pecking on morsels of rabbit

food – instead, pepare for huge, leafy affairs assembled to look complex and intriguing.

Recommended is the Croatian salad which rrives ensconced inside jumbo leaves of lettuce and cascading with mango, shrimps, goat cheese and much more besides. $$ Youmiko Vegan Sushi (D5) ul. Hoża 62, youmiko.vg Already wellestablished in Kraków, Youmiko enter Warsaw’s vegan sushi market hot on the heels of Edamame on Wilcza nearby. There’s definitely more of a hipster, ‘urban guerrilla’ feel to Youmiko, but the sushi is every bit a success. Often better than ‘the real thing’. $

vietnamese Du-Za Mi-Ha (D4) multiple locations, duzamiha.pl A compact Vietnamese joint noted for fresh, healthy nem filled with crunchy, perky fibers. The pho, on the other hand, is disappointing – according to one reader, “awful”. Prices begin at around zł. 10 and don’t go far north of zł. 20. You get what you pay for. $ Oh My Pho (D5) ul. Wilcza 32, fb.com/ohmyphowilcza A busy, family-run joint, OMP’s specific claim to fame is what many are terming the best and most authentic pho in the ward. Steamy and aromatic, this is pho as it should be: full of big herby thwacks, ribboning noodles, and soft strips of meat in a clear, restorative stock. Often cited as being the ‘soul of the nation’, just a few noisy slurps are all that’s needed to corroborate the life-affirming goodness of this beautiful broth...

Toan Pho (D4) ul. Chmielna 5/7, tel. 888 147 307 Toan Pho’s bowls of soup with rice noodles come highly recommended; as does the chaos intrinsic to this type of casual Asian eatery.

The short menu is in Vietnamese with Polish decoding – although you can ask for an English version. $ Viet Street Food Bistro (H4) ul. Królowej Aldony 5/2, fb.com/ vietstreetfoodpl What started out as a roaming food truck has settled down into life as a legitimate restaurant. Widely looked upon as the source of the best Vietnamese chow this city’s ever seen, the small menu reveals steaming bowls of pho and banh mi baguettes loaded with meat and greens. $

COMPLIMENTARY BREAKFAST WITH EVERY HOT BEVERAGE Offer available Mon-Fri 9am- 11:30am

cafes & wine bars NEW & NOTABLE

bakeries Aromat (C4) ul. Sienna 39, fb.com/piekarnia.aromat That many consider this their favorite bakery says it all. French flour and an expert baker ensure brilliant results, while the lemon éclairs deserve their own Facebook page.

Café Vincent (D3) ul. Nowy Świat 64 Queues build quickly as locals line up to buy baguettes, cinnamon rolls, lemon croissants and pains au chocolat.

But people don’t just head in then out, a small wine list and brilliant people spying opportunities cause many to hang around.

ETNO CAFE (ul. Marszałkowska 87, etnocafe.pl) Having already made a big noise in Wrocław, Etno have landed in Warsaw with quite a reputation to uphold. This they do in style thanks to superb pure Arabica from Ethiopia as well as brews from Kenya, Rwanda, El Salvador and Brazil. The cold brew coffee stands to become a lifesaver once the sun fixes itself to the skies above.

Petit Appetit (E6) ul. Mokotowska 45 The smell of freshly-baked loaves often wafts into the street, leaving passers-by with no option but to peer in – sweet temptation. And sweet is the right word: aside from divine baguettes check the pastries and brioches.

Qki ul. Topiel 19 & ul. Belgradzka 14, qki.waw. pl QKI is the work of two sisters (in-law!) with a passion for the sweeter things in life.

Shunning shortcuts and artifical nasties, cookies, cakes and pastries comprise the bulk of the offer here.

Rozbrat 20 Bakery & Wine Corner (F5) ul. Rozbrat 20, rozbrat20.com.pl Best known for fathering Butchery & Wine, Daniel Pawełek makes his mark on Powiśle with the launch of Rozbrat 20, a high-end bakery that’s worthy of the rave reviews. Aside from baguettes, muffins, croissants, etc. this smart corner unit has a superb wine list and a smattering of main courses that include flat iron steak.

MATCHA TEA HOUSE (ul. Mokotowska 17, fb.com/matchateahousewarsaw) Spring wouldn’t be spring without a new bar or cafe trying its luck on Pl. Zbawiciela.

Renting the space once occupied by the legendary Bastylia, Matcha certainly have a big pair of boots to fill – but fill them they might.

Beyond an comprehensive choice of match, find also an array desserts that use this green Japanese tea as the cornerstone ingredient.

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cafés Być Może (E7) ul. Bagatela 14, tel. 519 000 014, bycmoze. com.pl It’s all about artisan bread and breakfast in the industrial looking Być Może. It’s taken the concept of Charlotte (groan, there’s even a communal table), and improved it with excellent breads and a crowd that’s a little less pleased with itself

listings / cafés & wine bars and a little more normal.

Cophi (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60 So small you get the idea you could fit Cophi into the palm of your hand, yet no other place in Warsaw is more devoted to sourcing the best coffees in the world.

Czuły Barbarzyńca na Piwnej (E3) ul. Piwna 20/26, czuly.pl A Parisian-style bookstore full of steps and wobbles, nooks and alcoves. All agree there’s something special here: maybe it’s the book selection – varied, esoteric and at once compelling.

Or maybe it’s the atmosphere, such that browsers anchor themselves on the sofas to lose an afternoon with their nose in a novel while sipping drip coffee. Whatever the secret ingredient is, the bookish bustle makes it the most extraordinary literary hangout in the Polish capital.

Ministerstwo Kawy (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 27, ministerstwokawy. pl Sourcing their coffee from Koppi, an internationally acclaimed Swedish roasting house, the ministry takes no short cuts in their pursuit of excellence. Utilizing Ethiopian, Costa Rican and Brazilian arabicas – some exclusive to Poland – barista Wojciech Rzytki has earned a reputation across Poland for his expert hand. Rave reviews are standard and appropriate in this standout cafe.

MiTo (D6) ul. Waryńskiego 28, mito.art.pl Café, gallery, bookstore. Of course, we’ve seen that concept before, just not done in this style. Stark white backgrounds are offset by edgy art, lending the place a Tate Modern feel, something accentuated by the earnest fashion students who gather through the day.

And there’s the toilet, a futuristic affair with piped music and a mirrored wall.

Niezłe Ziółko Café & Deli (D5) ul. Krucza 17 A shrine to pure and healthy eating, this friendly café doesn’t just brew a great coffee, but bakes its own bread and produces its own yogurt. Sit in the loft to look down on shoppers scurrying to Mokotowska, and on the way out, check out ‘Grandma’s Cupboard’ in the corner: jams, spreads and olive oils are there to buy for home.

Relaks (E9) ul. Puławska 48 Generally travelling by tram for a cup of Joe sounds excessive, but that’s exactly what you’ll be doing on discovering

Relaks. Expertly prepared, right down to the foam art, the baristas here use the finest imported machines and work only with fair trade, ‘specialty’ coffee. If you have time, the drip coffees are more than worth the wait.

The interiors supply a retro accent, and are lapped up by a very fashion aware crowd.

Stor (E3) ul. Tamka 33 Small but perfectly formed, Stor has all the clack and clatter of a busy local café. Regional beers, Chemex and Aeropress coffee and gluten-free snacks and sandwiches provide plenty of reason to pop in and idle about.

desserts Cukiernia Stary Dom ul. Puławska 104/106, restauracjastarydom. pl A beautifully elegant confectionary that evokes memories of Old Poland. Flock wallpaper and checkered floors add to the high tea ambience, as do the lines of glinting bottles and a counter stocked with temptations. Pastry chef Mariusz Palarczykow is a king in his field.

latest, Cukiernia Miodowa, possibly the most exciting launch thus far. Offering five-course ‘dessert tasting menus’, truffles, tarts, pralines and Warsaw’s first cronut, expect to be hearing a lot about this operation in the coming few months.

MOD (D6) ul. Oleandrów 8 Warsaw has always loved donuts, but it took the arrival of MOD to elevate this humble doughy vice to new levels with a glam New York-inspired makeover. Top tip: the Mango is heaven.

Odette (D4) ul. Górskiego 6/07, odette.pl Almost holistic in its ambience, the obstacle-free interior utilizes aspects of space and light, causing attention to naturally fall on the long, sleek counter that occupies one end. It’s here that sweet creations glimmer behind glass like precious little gems.

Sucre Various locations, see: sucre.pl While Sucre are best known for their ice cream, outside of summer people flock here on account of their dazzling macaroons.

Le Chocolat (D5) ul. Żurawia 26, lechocolat.pl This chic emporium is the realization of one couples desire to offer top-quality chocolates that challenge the palate of the discerning fan.

Inspired by the chocolate boutiques of Paris, over twenty different brands from a dozen countries are available. Handmade pralines and truffles, displayed almost like jewels, come in a rainbow of fillings, from coconut to cherries, mint to almonds.

Warszawski Lukier (E5) ul. Hoża 5/7 Looking pretty in pink, there’s a fun and feminine vibe that goes beyond just a quirky design that features rose colored swings. The desserts are hardcore food porn, and include Lukier’s signature freak shakes: towering treats cascading with calories and color.

Legal Cakes (B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, legalcakes.com ‘No need to cheat’ chirps their motto. Proclaiming to be the first of its kind in Poland, Legal Cakes specialize in gorgeous cakes and assorted desserts – the difference being these are all made from completely natural and healthy ingredients. Occupying a pinkish, feminine space just off Chłodna street, their own-made chocolate / fruit ‘batons’ are an essential takeout item.

Corona Sok i Mus ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki), fb.com/ coronasokimus Inconspicuous by its size, this pit stop consists of nothing more than a counter and display fridge, yet already its carved a 24-carat reputation for cold-pressed juices and small, jarred mousses. Made using local seasonal fruit and veg, then topped with superfoods and spices, the quality of Corona’s products have made it a standout.

Miodowa Cafe (D2) ul. Senatorska 13/15, miodowa-cafe.pl Gone are the days when Warsaw’s dessert / pastry shops were communist relics overseen by half-mad old bats. The rise of upscale dessert stores continues unchecked with the

juice bars

Juice Press People ul. Bracka 18 Sick and tired of being sick and tired? This two-level cubbyhole offers an easy way to cleanse and detox the body: cold-pressed from organic, locally sourced fruit and veg, find an array of juices lined up on parade in the fridge, as well as a variety of www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / cafés & wine bars coffees that make use of chemix, aeropress and drip techniques.

Think Love Juices (H4) ul. Francuska 14, thinklove.pl Nutrition nut and supermodel Anna Jagodzińska reveals the secrets of her diet in this white-clad, summery-looking Saska café. As the name indicates, juice plays a massive part in that, with the rotating choice presenting a range of drinks that run from watermelon water all the way up to complex concoctions that ignore any shortcuts. The daily changing lunch deals are superb, but leave you in no doubt just why models are so skinny.

wine bars Ale Wino! (E5) ul. Mokotowska 48, alewino.pl At first you think you’re walking into a car park. And then, it hits you – a beautiful inner-city sanctum with wooden decking, a slanted sail shielding the sun, and bespoke, funky chairs from the esteemed Studio Rygalik. You want to dwell here for a bit longer than planned: and there’s no harm in doing so. One of the Insider’s favorite wine bars, Ale Wino’s food is also top-notch

Bristol Wine Bar (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmiescie 42/44 Effortlessly evoking a real sense of history, the design is a triumph with lots of polished brass and nickel, rich wood finishes and marble floors. You feel like you’ve stepped into a film. And the wine choice is prodigious: offering a complete cruise through the wines of the Old Continent and the New World, the collection is precisely presented from behind glass cases that line the walls.

Charlotte (D6) ul. Aleja Wyzwolenia 18 (enter from pl. Zbawiciela), bistrocharlotte.com It matters not if you’re easily traumatized by the catwalk parade that is Charlotte. Open from seven on weekdays, it’s the place for a morning croissant. And if you’re armed with the latest Apple technology, all the better – join the other posers at the communal table. Located on Warsaw’s most happening roundabout, there’s no better place to indulge a hangover with a spot of eavesdropping than inside this boulangerie/wine bar.

Dekant Wine Bar (E3) ul. Zajęcza 15, dekant.com.pl Set inside

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an attractive open space, the opening of Dekant is a further indication of Powiśle’s shift from hipster epicenter to upscale playground (Robert Lewandowski has been spotted here!). The list comprises over 400 wines from the most prestigious producers in the world, right the way down to tiny, little vineyards you’ve probably never heard of. If the sun is out, aim for a place on their back terrace.

Dyletanci (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44, dyletanci.pl Often filled to capacity with crisp, modern citizens that radiate confidence, join them on green banquettes illuminated with Tom Dixon lamps. The wine list is fitting of the A-list, and aside from exceptional international choices, also includes interesting wines from the proprietor’s own label – a frankly superb Polish brand called Dom Bliskowice.

Enoteka (D1) Rynek Nowego Miasta 13/15, enotekapolska.pl It’s the wine bar New Town has been waiting for ever since… the old Enoteka closed. The eagerly awaited return brings with it a new location – right on the corner of New Town Square and a wine list from curated by importer Maciej Bomboł.

Hoża (D5) ul. Hoża 25a, hoza.warszawa.pl You’ll probably know Hoża as the home of steak. But what is meat without wine? complementing the Argentine-inspired cooking is a wine list particularly dense with reds.

Kieliszki Na Hożej ul. Hoża 41, kieliszkinahozej.pl Already celebrated for their operation on Próżna, this latest branch continues in much the same vein: classy interiors, a prime location on one of Warsaw’s few surviving pre-war streets and a casual bistro vibe matched up against a glorious Italian influenced wine list. The concise food menu connects local Polish to classic French and adds an interesting modern twist.

Mielżyński Wine Bar (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, mielzynski.pl Robert Mielżyński, a Canadian-born oenologist, awakened Warsaw’s love affair with the grape when he launched Mielżyński in 2004, and it continues to serve as the accepted

benchmark to which all wine bars aspire.

Their cause is amply boosted by a fine selection of bites to accompany the superlative wine offer. Find it in a pared down warehouse that emanates casual city cool.

Mielzynski Wine Bar (G9) ul. Czerska 12, mielzynski.pl After three years in the pipeline Warsaw’s second outpost of Mielżyński is everything you’d expect: the concise menu is never too complex while the exciting wine choice presents over 500 labels. This vibrant warehouse-style space promises much.

Nowina ul. Nowogrodzka 4, nowina.waw.pl Though only opened towards in January, Nowina have thus far chalked up a bundle of five star reviews. Helping in the achievement of that has been a striking interior that catches the eye from across the street – restored pre-war tiling, glinting surfaces, a world map rendered from corks and an engaging reddish glow all do their bit to lend Nowina the kind of atmosphere that’s missing in most local wine bars. Add to that an exciting international menu and a selection of over 400 wines and you have an absolute winner.

WinKolekcja (E10) ul. Olkuska 7, winkolekcja.pl The selection of New World wines is exceptional, though classicists are also catered for via an extensive choice of Spanish, French and Italian wines. Their highly recommended restaurant provides further reason to linger inside a design that has the routine look of a club class lounge.

Winosfera (B3) ul. Chłodna 31, winosfera.pl Once a pre-war cinema, now a stunning wine bar / store with one of the most impressive collections in Poland: an expense account comes in handy.

Equally notable is the ambitious fine dining menu of Jakub Adamczyk. Żurawina (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34, zurawina.eu Lacking in intimacy, this large white room gets criticized for its jarring artwork and staffing blips – in the world of wine it’s important the customer can connect to the staff: here, we felt like we were joining the SS. But both food and wine score highly, and they’ve earned a staunchly loyal following that includes high flying types and Paris Hilton wannabes that carry yappy dogs in their bag.

nightlife NEW & NOTABLE

WISŁA BARS (various locations along the riverfront) The good news: May brings the return of the Wisła’s riverfront bars. The bad news: at this point, there’s no telling which ones that’ll be. For certain, Temat Rzeka and La Playa will boss the beaches on the right side, while on the left bank you can bet your last zlots that Cud Nad Wisłą, Pomost 511 and Grunt i Woda will also br returning. Check our website for updates as and when news becomes known.

bars & pubs The Alchemist (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 3, thealchemist.pl The great British tradition of ‘a pint after work’ is gathering steam in PL, thanks in part to places like this. Lively and cosmopolitan, The Alchemist’s broad ranging appeal – not to mention ‘self-service beer wall’ – makes it a winning gathering point for 5 p.m. drinks.

Beirut (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, beirut.com.pl As hip as ever, Beirut has walls dusted with cult album covers, documentary posters and witty graffiti inspired by Banksy. Busy in the day, and absolutely packed at night, order unconventional beers from androgynous staff standing behind a sandbag bar decorated with silver hand grenades and a model tank.

Bollywood Lounge (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, bollywoodlounge.pl Bollywood in full swing is quite a sight – find banging beats and an energetic club atmosphere complimented by the pungent pleasures of their sheesha pipes. The Sunday karaoke sessions are a hoot.

Bubbles (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, bubbles.com.pl Despite sounding like a 90s small town nightclub, Bubbles is in fact a worthy place of note: a small, warm venue with a slow food menu and a design that incorporates lots of upturned crates and dusty bottles. Champagne is the main draw here, with many labels that are exclusive to Poland. Some come with terrifying prices, but on the whole the price points are widely accessible: wine from zł. 10 and a flute of champers from zł. 29.

WARZĄ SIĘ LOZY (ul. Oleandrów 3, losy.pub) Oleandrów’s status as being at the center of Warsaw’s axis of hip has taken another step forward with the opening of Warzą. Decked out with the kind of wooden slats you’d find hanging off the walls of a recording studio (the prior owner was, so it’s said, a sound engineer), this uber trendy spot claims to have more craft beer taps per square meter than anywhere else in the city.

Grizzly Gin Bar (D5) ul. Wilcza 46 More prone than ever to global trends, news that the international gin revival has hit Warsaw comes as no real bombshell.

The style in Grizzly is dark and hip with the design largely limited to moody lighting, some witty murals and a bank of outdated TV sets, while the smoking room is great for accidental meetings with curious characters. Serving their own ‘Grizzly lager’ as well as numerous cocktails based on different craft gins, it’s fast becoming the latest night in the area. www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / nightlife Hard Rock Cafe (C5) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), hardrockcafe. pl Full Throttle cocktails, lively staff and a classic rock soundtrack: the energy of HRC is hard to find fault with. And on the rare occasion there is a lull in the night, use the opportunity to sniff around memorabilia that includes a black leather number once worn

by Madonna.

Kraken Rum Bar (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, fb.com/KrakenRumBar Named after one of the ocean’s most feared mythical creatures (the scary squid from Pirates of the Caribbean), the wood-clad Kraken features a wall of cymbals, heavy furniture and some interesting photography.

While there’s some decent bottles of rum, there’s perhaps not enough to justify calling it a rum bar. The house beer rocks though.

Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, legendsbar.pl Legends is slowly achieving legendary status amongst the expats and Anglophiles. Their cause is helped by touches like a segregated smoking room, proper darts board, Sky Sports and a traditional menu that’s as authentically English as the Downing Street cat. Presiding over it all is Graham, a seasoned expat and Everton nut.

Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’ (D4) Enter from ul. Nowy Świat 26 Approximately twenty bars occupy a series of low-budget prefabricated cabins, presenting possibly the highest density of bars in the capital: in summer, it feels like one big street party.

Adding to the gentle sense of confusion comes the realization that so many bars look the same – accessed through clattery, barred doors, visitors walk into what can only be described as murk. Klaps, with its dildo beer taps and phallic walls, is probably the most well-known of the lot.

Oleandrów 3 (D6) ul. Oleandrów 3, fb.com/oleandrow3 Exploring themes of decadence and fallen splendor, this new opening cements Oleandrów’s status as one of Warsaw’s rising streets. Looking dark and disheveled, this busy nightspot is already earning a name for libertine shenanigans. The blackboard menu touts an unlikely combo of ‘hot dogs and champagne’ – watch others follow suit.

Plan B (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), planb.

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pl Plan B is the very essence of dive Warsaw.

Weekends pass by in a raucous blur, with the party spilling out under the colonnades outside – it helps to look like a DJ, but in truth everyone is welcome. The hangover from this shabby, grubby bar is traumatic.

Stixx (A4) Pl. Europejski 4A, tel. 22 340 4040, stixx.pl It takes a moment to allow the sheer magnitude of Stixx sink in. Having adjusted to the wow factor of the interior – which can best be described as cosmopolitan-industrial – most retreat to the long, all weather deck which in itself is quite something: the aesthetics are such that a cocktail party on an oligarch’s yacht comes to mind. There aren’t many better places for a drink when the roof is rolled back and the stars twinkle down.

cocktails 6 Cocktails (E5) ul. Mokotowska 57 If 6 Cocktails has the feeling of hanging around someone’s flat that’s because, actually, you are. This posh Mokotowska apartment has been re-adapted as an exclusive bar frequented by leggy models and society figures: the parties are nuts! Unmarked from street level, to enjoy the inventive cocktails message them on FB and await your invite.

Bar & Books (D2) ul. Wąski Dunaj 20, barandbooks.pl Seen through a thin autumnal THE MOST mist, this white REFRESHINGLY CIVILIZEDtownhouse radiates warmth: PLACES TO MEET lights glimmer, piano music tinkles. WoodCIGARS & WHISKY paneled ≈and lined with leather-bound tomes, WINE & CHAMPAGNE there’s a≈ sense of dignity that’s unique to COCKTAILS &cocktail CUSINE Warsaw’s scene. There’s humor, as ≈ TASTINGS well, courtesy of portraits of chimps togged ≈ RIVATE EVENTS out Plike 18th century gentry. Similar to a ≈ LOCATION SHOOTS members’ only Mayfair bar, find ‘classic with aPtwist’ ODWALE Bcocktails AR AND BOOKS mixed and muddled by the Wąski Dunaj 20, 00-256 Warsaw sortTel.: of+48charming bartenders you’d trust serv225.599.199 ing Bond. While bills can become weighty affairs, no one regrets the spend – plus, you can smoke here as well!

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clubs Luztro (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, luztro.pl Feeling naughty? Luztro enjoys a reputation for libertine behavior and illicit pharmaceuticals.

Dark, grim and grotty, this after party stalwart gets going at about 4 a.m. on weekends, when troglodyte club creatures emerge zombie-like to dance way past sunrise. Jaw grinding, rib rattling electro has never felt better.

Visit Our LOcatiOns

No Comment (F4) Al. 3 Maja 16/18A, Most Poniatowskiego Found in one of the towers that prop up Most Poniatowskiego, a ‘sense of unknown’ manifests itself inside this weekend’s only club, a bi-level area whose small size adds to the air of mystery and exclusivity. Away from the prying eyes of Joe Public, find glittery, local celebs getting down and naughty.

a P i n Y Bardziej (E5) ul.www.barandbooks.pl Marszałkowska 21/25 (enter from Oleandrów) It’s thanks to places like Bardziej that Oleandrów is becoming one of the most talked about streets around. This split-level bar does a good job of capturing the essence of the area, with inventive ‘author’s cocktails’ matched against a warm, dimly lit interior that’s heaving with cogs, metal hooks and enigmatic dials. The later it gets, the better it is.

The View (C4) ul. Twarda 18, theview.pl Sat on top of the Spektrum Tower this bar/club has reinvented the whole concept of going out in Warsaw.

A truly world-class venture, the open-air deck on the 32nd floor offers striking views of the cityscape, first rate cocktails and an international rotation of DJs. No other club nails the champagne lifestyle with quite the same panache.

Biała ul. Francuska 2, fb.com/bialazjedziwypij Expect highly individualized cocktails, a thoughtful menu and a glam, vamped up crowd every bit as beautiful as the place itself: set in a gloriously white inter-war villa, this is a place that oozes with sex appeal.

Once the outdoor drinking season begins, you’ll be lucky to find a better outdoor garden.

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listings / nightlife Charlie ul. Mokotowska 39 Arguably the best and boldest opening of the year, Charlie presents thrilling cocktails inside an interior that wouldn’t be amiss in Manhattan: there’s even a fountain! Being rich and pretty is almost a compulsory criteria.

BROUGHT TO YOU BY BARDZIEJ

Palmier (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12 Here, class and high times are in abundance inside an interior that’s all cool stone and pot palms. But it’s the narrow terrace that promises to be the place to be seen: join and enjoy the ‘Warsaw scene’ alongside a crowd that’s been compared to a Ralph Lauren billboard (even Robert Lewandowski has been spied here!).

Panorama Sky Bar (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, panoramabar.pl The Marriott’s 40th floor Panorama has had a couple of incarnations: first, as a glitzy Dynasty throwback, and then, more recently, as something that could have passed for a business class airport lounge. Now it’s been reinvented once again, only this time successfully: find slick, vibrant interiors redolent of London matched up with modern cocktails and twinkling views.

The Roots (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 11 Cluttered with shiny props and pieces rescued from the early days of cocktail making, The Roots could pass for a Victorian era curiosity shop. Looking past the eccentricities that comprise the interior, it’s become famous on account of irresistible drinks mixed and muddled by dapper experts that aren’t so much barmen as they are craftsmen.

Weles (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 11, welesbar.pl A swing of the door takes visitors plunging down a blacked-out stairwell and into a basement that emerges from the darkness like a decadent Tsarist relic: glinting chandeliers glimmer over deep leather sofas, their subtle light casting a glow over an immaculate clientele. Befitting the venue, the artisanal cocktails are a work of elaborate craftsmanship, and incorporate everything from elite liquors to strips of bacon and flower petals.

At weekends this place rocks when DJ Trent gets onto the decks.

Woda Ognista (E5) ul. Wilcza 8, wodaognista.com Woda Ognista evokes the jazzy air of a Chicago, Prohibition

SPRING COCKTAILS IN BARDZIEJ Does a season have a taste? And if so, how do you contain it all inside a cocktail? At Bardziej we’ve found the answer by creating a cocktail that’s the very essence of Spring. The base of this drink is blackcurrant, the taste of which we achieve by macerating young twigs in vodka. For a sweeter taste we add a little birch sugar. With the right balance, the result is a slightly acidic quince jam. Finally, we’ve topped it off with a little splash of soda and a mist of pansy-scented water to give your drink a pleasant Spring aroma – a little bit of heart and a dash of bar magic is all you need for the quintessential taste of the season.

Ingredients - homemade, blackcurrant vodka - quince mousse - edible pansy flower - xylitol - soda

Visit us this month for more Spring thrills! ul. Marszałkowska 21/25 (enter from ul. Oleandrów), tel. 22 118 2743, www.bardziejbar.pl

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listings / nightlife era speakeasy with a seriously stylish interior that includes a colossal collection of vintage cocktail shakers that glint behind glass. The drinks themselves, rattled up by dapper gents in braces and flat caps, are split between house creations and reprised classics from a bygone era. Some are more successful than others, and it’s a credit to the staff that they’re willing to take comments on board and adapt their precious recipes to suit fussy tastes.

craft beer Artezan Pub (D4) ul. Moniuszki 1A Browar Artezan’s flagship pub is a compulsory visit for all beer aficionados. The beer is the magnetic force with eight taps blasting out pacesetter tipples from this brewery’s portfolio. The Pacific is the Insider’s all-time favorite.

BrewDog Warszawa (D4) ul. Widok 8 BrewDog don’t get everything right: at one stage last summer, it seemed like they were upping their prices every other weekend. But while it’s true it’s not the cheapest pint in Warsaw, there’s a feel good factor here that manifests itself inside interiors that rock and beers that go BOSH. Of all the craft beer bars that have swept into Warsaw, this is the one that feels the most international, inclusive and bloody good fun.

Chmielarnia Marszałkowska (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16, chmielarnia.waw. pl With Warsaw’s tap bars all falling over each other to stock the latest tap beers, your options are frequently similar from bar to bar – which is when a good fridge becomes important. Not only can you actually see into Chmielarnia’s, you’ll find it housing the most exciting brews trending around the globe: from the edgy Bermondsey breweries to the Scandinavian giants. Broaden your horizons!

Cuda Na Kiju (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, cudanakiju.pl Where it all began. Summer catches Warsaw’s original tap bar at its best, with the courtyard of the former Communist Party HQ now home to an entirely different kind of party: on occasions find food trucks and film screenings, and all other times just a massive crowd getting sloshed on 15 types of tap beer. But even outside the sweaty months Cuda is worth the visit: drink inside a modern, glass cube that’s refreshing contemporary.

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Cyderia ul. Poznańska 16 Conceived by the management of Plan B, this bar comes with an immaculate, moody interior designed by the acclaimed Projekt Praga: find coal black crates suspended from the ceiling and a zinc-topped bar made from slabs of oak. Looking cool and current, it’s not just the aesthetic touches and cosmetic kisses that make Cyderia special. The real cause for visiting is a choice of seven or so ciders, mainly sourced from small Polish farmsteads and artisan producers.

Cześć (C3) ul. Grzybowska 2 (through the side passage), czesc.waw.pl It started as a café, but now Cześć is better known as being at the forefront of the new generation of ‘quali-tap’ bars – small little places with six or so beers on tap. The two owners, Piot and Kuba, take their beer seriously, so do expect plenty of new finds as well as traditional favorites from stalwarts like the Artezan and Pinta breweries. The laidback, neighborhood atmosphere is making it increasingly popular with a tight-knit circle of ex-pat drinkers.

Drugie Dno ul. Nowogrodzka 4 To plug into the pounding heart of Warsaw’s craft beer scene, look no further than Nowogrodzka. Joining the ranks of the street’s multi-tap bars is Drugie Dno, a three-level space that’s been themed to evoke the look of a disused power station.

Sporting rugged brickwork and a scuffed style, the industrialized look has been amped up to the max through the use of steel girders, vintage voltage meters and toilets disguised as elevator shafts.

Gorączka Złota (D5) ul. Wilcza 29, goraczka-zlota.com.pl Founded in 1996, Złota’s longevity is to be admired, even if the interiors aren’t. Small, dark and a little pungent, the interiors are rendered out of little more than varnished wood and hundreds of beer coasters. But that’s the clue! The secret of their success is down to the beer. Stocking a range of regional and craft beer (Ale Browar, Pinta, Kormoran, AltenMunster, Olbracht, etc.), this unfashionable bar has an underlying honesty that makes it a success.

Jabeerwocky (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 12, taproom.pl Steeped in multinational drunken babble, the super sociable Jabbers is famed for its innovative

beer selection and convivial atmosphere.

Mark it down as an absolute must-visit, especially if you’re a fan of stout and cider.

Kufle i Kapsle (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 25, kufleikapsle.pl All levels of drinkers are catered for in this raw-looking space, from those ready to pay nosebleed prices for beers with spaceships on the label, right the way down to novices taking their first baby steps in the world of craft booze. Interiors are balanced with the pre-war heritage of the place, and are thick with noise, clamor and the spell of spillage.

Unisex toilets, meaning there’s usually one idiotka putting a spanner in the queue code.

Same Krafty (D1) ul. Nowomiejska 10, samekrafty.pl Occupying two narrow, rugged rooms, Same Krafty have rescued Old Town from big beer brands peddling piss. Offering artisan alternatives, this intimate bar has become a magnet for those looking to explore the more subversive side of Polish brewing. That this happens in such an amicable venue makes it all the better, particularly in winter when drinkers squash in to seek solace from the frostbitten streets.

Same Krafty Vis-à-vis (D1) ul. Nowomiejska 11/13, samekrafty.pl You wouldn’t have thought it a year back, but reasons keep emerging to drink in the Old Town. When it comes to pubs, Same Krafty top the list, but try getting served at peak drinking time. So here’s some brilliant news: they’ve now opened another bar opposite.

Pass under a dragon’s head before stepping into a supremely friendly room with ten taps, a strong bottle line-up and an atmospheric side chamber.

Syzyszka Chmielu Al. KEN 36, pubszyszkachmielu.pl The beer scene is Ursynów is seriously hopping up.

First came Pociąg Do Piwa, then Vyceska, and now this tongue twister. The 14 taps offer largely safe local options, so head to the fridge for adventurous brews from the likes of Mikeller, AleSmith and Nogne O. In an added plus, this is just about the first tap bar that realizes that some people out there like football: it’s filled with slick screens beaming the big match.

Spiskowcy Rozkoszy (D5) ul. Żurawia 47/49, spiskowcy.pl The ground floor is an intimate space with lots of

listings / nightlife yet-to-be-famous beers and junky, antique furniture that reminds of the Boho hangouts in Kraków. But what was a packed, little bar is now a packed, big bar with the opening of the basement: find a labyrinth of rooms and psychedelic toilets with pulsating lights – you soon wonder who spiked your drink. And oh, the drinks. Expect IPA and APA beers served from the six taps.

for gentlemen Playhouse (B3) Al. Solidarności 82A, playhouse.pl Not here gorilla gangsters on the door or pushy girls doing the rounds (“buy me drinky drinky”).

Instead, Playhouse models itself on the top class mega clubs such as Spearmint Rhino, and the result is a subterranean space removed from the sleaze and murk usually associated with the industry. But you want to know what the girls are like, yeah? Let the fact askmen.com voted it their favorite strip in the world speak for itself.

live music 12on14 Jazz Club (D6) ul. Noakowskiego 16, 12on14club.com Warsaw has a rich tradition of jazz, so you have to sometimes wonder, just where the hell are all the jazz bars? In 12on14’s case, down a courtyard and through a side entrance. Dark, smart and sophisticated, here’s a place that’s fitted out with framed portraits of sax tooting masters as a well-stocked bar area decorated with quotes from jazz legends. Open from Tuesday till Saturday, evenings see local and international musicians take to the stage.

Chwila (B3) ul. Ogrodowa 31/35 Entered under a red, cabaret-style awning, Chwila is a reject factory space turned good. Furry cushions, patchwork quilts and student art vie for attention alongside iron girders and industrial leftovers inside what is becoming known as one of the top alternative music venues this side of the river. The toilet alone, papered with trillions of cool posters and magazine covers, is a reason to linger.

Eufemia (D3) Krakowskie Przedmieście 5 (enter via ul. Niżyńskiego), klubojadalniaeufemia. blogspot.com Eufemia unwraps into a series

of side rooms furbished with VHS tapes, student artwork and furniture looted from your grandparents dining room. The claustrophobic atmosphere lends itself well to intimate gigs that see everything from improvised instrumentals to bands called Graveyard Drug Party.

Hydrozagadka ul. 11 Listopada 22, hydrozagadka.waw.pl Set out in the wildlands of Praga, consider Hydrozagadka as the heart of unforced cool.

Known for its alternative music scene, the low-ceiling and tight, crowded nature of it generate an electrifying atmosphere where the audience and band become one. Walking a fine line between industrial and straight out decrepit, the atmosphere is second to none: drinks flow, strangers meet and music smashes out: you can feel something special happening here.

Pyk i Łyk (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 26 Thundering through a flimsy door, customers are met by a tiny, divey area that’s devoid of furnishings aside from shelves of vodka and a bar that’s been painted to depict dripping blood. Yikes!

Decorated with bizarre montages of hard drinking rockers, once visitors settle into their vodka rhythm, it reveals itself as a bar of greatness. “No wi-fi,” shouts one sign, “talk to each other and get drunk.” It’s that kind of place.

vodka Bar Warszawa (D2) ul. Miodowa 2, barwarszawa.pl Thick with alcoholic fumes and the sound of drunken tantrums, Bar Warszawa excels in its role as a late night dive bar. Split on two levels, upstairs is where most head to flop around a retro lounge interior filled with nostalgic decorations that tempt kleptomaniacs.

Dom Wódki (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 9/11 Those expecting Dom Wódki to be a standard mucky shot bar are in for a surprise. Sparkling with over 250 artisanal vodkas, find them incorporated into inspirational drinks mixed by Tomasz Małek, a world champion flair bartender. More than just show, the tastes are incredible.

Meta ul. Mazowiecka 11 / Foksal 21 / Parkingowa 5 Chains of old bog paper, Karol Gott album covers and other Communist keepsakes litter this shot bar. But for a real blast to the past, visit their Parkingowa venue for a full-on, Polski-style retro disco. It’s hilarious.

Pijalnia many locations, fb.com/pijalnia.warszawa Havoc reigns in Pijalnia, and watching all the tears and tiffs on a Friday night is something of a spectator sport. Pickles and vodka are the essential order, while reading matter is supplied via commie-era sports reports that are plastered to the wall.

10% discount* VALID TILL JUNE 30TH, 2017. FOR PURCHASES OVER 150 PLN. WI/III-VI

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shopping accessories Bursztynek Rynek Starego Miasta 4/6, bursztynek.co The largest amber jewellery store in Warsaw, though in addition to that visitors can also purchase unique amber-related souvenirs as well as more classic gifts associated with Poland.

Hard Rock Cafe ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), hardrockcafe.pl No wardrobe is complete without the iconic Hard Rock t-shirt! Find the Warsaw-stamped version available here, along with other extras for the all American look.

LUXURY BAGS CHYLAK (chylak.com) Despite only being launched in 2014, Chylak were awarded the prestigious ‘Brand of the Year’ prize by Elle magazine the following year. Made using the highest quality Italian leather, ladies bags are manufactured in Poland with collections created in limited batches: each bag comes with its own serial number hand-stamped in gold.

MALTON & KIELMAN (ul. Chmielna 6, maltonkielman.com) Specializing in bespoke bags and accessories, Malton & Kielman is the result of cooperation between a Swedish expat and a Warsaw-based leather workshop and store with a history dating to the 19th century. Strongly influenced by classic Italian and British trends, the Tattoo range of gentleman’s bags have received global exposure.

MEQNES(pictured) (meqnes.com) Dubbed as ‘the ultimate gift for the man who is always on the go’, Meqnes use full-grain calfskin leather that’s been vegetable tanned to achieve color. Hand produced in Morocco, these weekend bags are sophisticated but also highly durable. “Meqnes combines the aesthetics of old school men’s travel bags,” says the founder, Kamal Jahid, “with the sleekness of modern day fashion.”

MUMU (mumubags.com) Formed by three friends of Polish, Swedish and Italian background, Mumu’s elegant range of ladies bags are handmade using soft or full-grain Italian leather.

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HOS&me ul. Mokotowska 63, mokotowska63.com Luxury jewelry and the best in the biz. In stock: high end treasures from Nialaya, Lene Bjerre Design, Ti Sento, Christensen and Dryberg/Kern.

Minty Dot ul. Bracka 5, mintydot.pl Top quality Polish jewelry composed using gold, silver and natural stone. Contemporary in style, these are accessories that radiate class and craftsmanship while at the same time exuding a subtle sense of timeless romance.

Pingle Optyk ul. Hoża 40 A collection of hand-selected eyewear that is serious in terms of quality control, but entirely whimsical when it comes to design. Yes, you’ve got your ubiquitous Ray Ban classics, but you’ve also got the electric blue version. You’ve got your Chanel and YSL classics, then there are the leather-trimmed frames from Paul Smith and many more funky models straight from Paris.

Pracownia Szczotek ul. Poznańska 26, khaja.pl Opened in 1952, this bespoke brush store has been passed down from grandfather to father and then onto son. On offer: everything from paintbrushes to moustache combs to hairbrushes.

And the owner is a character as well: “I don’t have time for Facebook,” he says, “it would get in the way of my tango lessons!”

listings / shopping Schubert ul. Piwna 12/14, ul. Piwna 26, ul. Świętojańska 11, worldofamber.pl Rings, bracelets, necklaces and watches produced using the finest Baltic amber. Or for a unique gift, how about an amber chess set or an amber cigarette lighter?

Non’chalant ul. Koszykowa 67, nonchalant.pl Playing up to the ideals of classic Italian and British style, Non’chalant present an array of accessories aimed at the dapper gentleman: high quality ties, cravats, pocket squares, socks and scarves.

fashion

Pan Tu Nie Stal Koszykowa 35/40, pantuniestal.com Polish design at its peak: fashion is prominent, but there’s also interesting bitsy things such as aprons, jam jars, notebooks and mugs – all with a defiantly Polish twist. Eccentric, unusual and emphatically on-trend, it’s a must-visit.

Ania Kuczyńska ul. Mokotowska 61 Ania Kuczyńska is becoming well known for her highly fashionable, minimalist clothing designs. The store also carries adorable baby clothes and various accessories.

EM Cashmere Boutique ul. Szczygla 8, emcashmere.pl Available brands include Allude Cashmere, Annette Görtz, Studiorundholz and Sarah Pacini with 30-40% discounts on last year’s collections, and up to 70% on those of previous years.

A truly beautiful find with the clothes offer supplemented with shoes and accessories.

Frank A ul. Natolińska 3, franka.pl The interior is painfully chic and the clothing effortlessly elegant with a minimalist edge. Stocks major brands that you can’t find anywhere else in Warsaw, from handbags from Pauric Sweeney, perfectly fashioned tees from American Vintage and ballet flats from Bloch.

Moliera 2 Boutique ul. Moliera 2, moliera2.com Brands: Alexandre Birman, Alexandre Vauthier, Anya Hindmarch, Aquazzura, Balmain, Beach Bunny, Buscemi, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Francesco Russo, Gianvito Rossi, Herve Leger, Isabel Marant, Jimmy Choo, Kenzo, Kotur, Maison Michel, Moncler, One Teaspoon, Simonetta Ravizza, Tod’s, Tory Burch, Valentino, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon.

Mostrami.pl mostrami.pl Known to insiders as the ‘Polish Net-a-porter’, the online Mostrami portal showcases a whole breed of Polish fashion talent: Blessus, Justyna Chrabelska, Łukasz Jemioł, and Zuo Corp, as well as the rock stars of the local scene such as Kupisz, Zień and Plich. Around 100 designers to choose from, with prices straddling the wide spectrum of purchasing power.

know Sabotage as one of the places to buy funky deconstructed denim and sportswear pieces. Here you’ll find a wide array of unique clothes, hats, belts and handbags in a variety of fabrics and styles that hail straight from New York, London and Tokyo.

malls & department stores Arkadia Al. Jana Pawła II 82, tel. 22 323 6767, arkadia.com.pl Galeria Mokotów ul. Wołoska 12, tel. 22 541 4141, galeriamokotow.com.pl

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, plactrzechkrzyzy.com Brands: Beach Bunny, Buscemi, Canada Goose, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Dsquared 2, Christian Louboutin, Fay, Gianvito Rossi, Hogan, Kenzo, Kotur, Moncler, Mr& Mrs Italy, One Teaspoon, Ralph Lauren, Simonetta Ravizza, Tom Ford, Tory Burch, Valentino, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon.

Childrenswear: Burberry Children, Dsquared2 Kids, Kenzo Kids, Moncler Kids, Ralph Lauren Kids, Tod’s Kids.

Ptasia 6 ul. Ptasia 6, ptasia6.pl A unique ladies concept store showcasing the works of both emerging and established independent Polish fashion labels such as Eva Grygo, Confashion, Horror! Horror!, Kasia Miciak and Polanka.

Reykjavik District ul. Burakowska 15, tel. 501 399 222, reykjavikdistrict.com Chic, well-cut menswear for all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal.

Risk. Made In Warsaw ul. Szpitalna 9, riskmadeinwarsaw.com Founded in 2011, Risk like to keep things local with both the design and production all done in Warsaw. Mixing modern shapes with expert tailoring, the idea was to create a look that’s both comfortable yet chic. That they’ve been featured in the likes of Vogue and Elle suggests that this target has been accomplished.

Sabotage ul. Burakowska 5/7 Those in-the-know

Klif House of Fashion ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4500 klif. pl Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has everything from the excellent Alma supermarket to top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko.

Plac Unii ul. Puławska 2, tel. 22 204 0499, placunii. pl Warsaw’s latest mall counts Armani Jeans, Liu-Jo and Pandora amongst its upmarket tenants.

Mysia 3 ul. Mysia 3, tel. 603 767 574, mysia3.pl Hip department store that’s seen a few tenants come and go, yet has remained on the cutting edge in spite of it all. Set in Poland’s former censorship office, the line-up includes Scandinavian fashion in Cos, shoes from My Paris, unconventional fashion from Nenukko and more.

Vitkac Wolf Bracka Vitkac, ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7313, likusconceptstore.pl Vitkac was made for with a credit card blitz in mind. Poland’s first luxury department store gathers the world’s top designers under one roof, with brands including Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton, Stella McCartney and Rick Owens. And that’s the tip of the iceberg. Finish with dinner in the top floor Concept 13.

Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59, tel. 22 222 2200, zlotetarasy.pl Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Jatomi Health and Fitness Club. www.warsawinsider.pl

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HIGH ON RUGS

Award-winning chef David Turkestanishvili talks about his secret vice: the rugs of his native Georgia...

How can a rug change my apartment?

By adding an explosion of life. I think the way a rug can inject its own personality into an apartment is almost mystical. The rug is the heart and soul of a living room and all the other furnishings are built around it. It’s nearly always the first thing someone will notice about an apartment, so you really need to think of a rug as your flat’s calling card.

What should people look for in a rug when buying?

There’s those who buy rugs as an investment, people who view a rug almost as if it were a piece of art. In truth though, such collectors are rarely found in Poland so instead, I always tell people to trust in their instinct and the concept of ‘love at first sight’. Often, it’s as if the rug chooses you.

What is the perfect rug?

If it’s perfect then it’s not a good rug! A good rug has to be handmade, and you can tell if it is by its various imperfections. Imperfections shouldn’t be seen as faults, but as part of a rug’s identity. A good rug will also always use natural dye, and that alone will naturally fade – if a rug is too bright then you can immediately tell that it’s not been handmade using natural materials.

How do your rugs differ?

You’ll find styles that are specific to a region and then you’ll have styles that are particular to certain individual rug makers. While no handmade rug will ever be the same, the latter will always be a little more personalized and unique. Then you have the differences in material: some use wool while others use silk. In my store, prices range from between zł.

500 to zł. 20,000, with the prices influenced by the size, age, material and density of the rug.

Where does the Georgian fascination for rugs come from?

When a Georgian thinks of his childhood home he’ll always remember the rugs from there. I’ve been in love with them since I was a boy; for me, rugs speak of memories of childhood – I remember the pretty girls who’d wash them in the yards at the weekend, or of just lying on rugs as a kid after dinner, reading the patterns and hidden meanings. In Georgia, they’re a big part of our lives: these are things that are handed down from generation-to-generation, they’re given as wedding gifts or even traded as currency. They’re a massive part of our culture.

Rusiko Al. Ujazdowskie 22, tel. 22 629 0628, www.rusiko.pl When he’s not cooking, find chef David inside his Aladdin’s lair of rugs and carpets around the corner from his restaurant. To see for yourself, book a viewing in advance.

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PHOTOGRAPH BY AGATA ZYGADLO

family INSIDE TIP

A Treasure Trove of Children’s Literature If you’re a fan of children’s books, then prepare yourself for perhaps Warsaw’s best kept secret. Funded partially

by EU cash, 2015 saw the library on Koszykowa receive a multi-million złoty renovation, with the refit including considerable work on the Muzeum Książki Dziecięcej (Museum of Children’s Books). Found on the ground floor near the three-story wall of greenery, the museum was originally founded in 1938 as a department of the Warsaw Public Library. Prior to the outbreak of WWII the collection numbered around 19,000 volumes of books and periodicals though the overwhelming majority of those were later lost during the destruction of the city – it’s estimated that fewer than 1,000 tomes survived. Undeterred by the severity of this blow, the museum has since grown to amass a total of 100,000 volumes, all of which have been meticulously archived in a high-tech storage facility underneath the library. If there’s a particular topic or period that’s of interest, all you have to do is contact the administration to organize a visit to look over the books which can then be photographed or scanned.

I set up a tour of the museum with one of their experts,

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Ewelina Rąbkowska, who showed us some of the rare specimens from their collection. One of the oldest they had, the catchily titled Pamiątka po Dobrej Matce, Czyli ostatnie jej rady dla córki, dated back to 1819 and dealt with topics of how literature can be used to help parents and children get through difficult stages of life. I pointed this out to Ewelina who proceeded to use the dropdown menu on the museum’s website to show me all the books relating to themes of literature and a child’s development.

She also showed us several early handmade books that were small in size (for little hands) dating from 1828, and a board game from 1851 with baffling rules. Personally though, I found myself coveting the illustrations in the old Polish-language Disney books – I’d have happily spent the next few hours lost in my thoughts. A wonderful source of inspiration for both young and old, it’s a place in which literature and fantasy collide together in spectacular style. (KD) Biblioteka Publiczna m. st. Warszawy ul. Koszykowa 26/28, koszykowa.pl

listings / family activities The Little Gym ul. Bruzdowa 56 & ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 45, tel. 22 842 0728, thelittlegym.eu Expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-to-child ratio, original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. Not only a great place for children, but tailored to a comfortable and relaxing stay for parents as well.

education preschools American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel.

22 702 85 00, aswarsaw.org

American School of Warsaw provides a rich, meaningful and balanced educational experience through age-appropriate activities to students aged 3 to 5. For further information and/or to visit our school, contact:admissions@aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00.

The British Primary School of Wilanów ul. Hlonda 12, bsww.pl, tel. 781 988 000 Following the National Curriculum of England and Wales, this is the first School in Poland subject to the inspection of the UK Independent School Inspectorate. Pupils receive British and, upon request, Polish reports/diplomas. The school follows a closed admissions policy and limits enrollment of one nationality to below 50% of each class starting from Year 1.

The British School Early Years Centre

ul. Dąbrowskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646 7777, british@thebritishschool. pl, thebritishschool.pl The Early Years Foundation Stage is where a lifetime of learning begins. The British School, Warsaw provides EYFS classes from Pre-nursery (age 30 months) to Reception (5 years old).

Children develop quickly and their Early Years practitioners aim to do all they can to help your child have the best possible start in life and become a lifelong learner.

The Canadian School of Warsaw Preschool ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, preschool@canadian-school. pl, canadian-school.pl Welcoming students from the ages of 2.5 to 6 years old, currently 45% of our admissions are international students.

Our dedicated, IB-trained teachers deliver an innovative program (PYP) in English designed for modern world needs. Our program offers a combination of Literacy, Maths, Social Stud-

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listings / family ies, Science, Physical Education, Art, Music & Rhythmics, French and Polish classes. We also provide a wide variety of after-school clubs. The pre-school is located in the heart of Mokotów, in the vicinity of Park Dreszera in a large villa with a wonderful garden.

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School

Exupery, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fill-immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French.

Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China.

(multiple locations)

Warsaw Montessori School ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, warsawmontessori.edu. pl Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have 3 green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy.

Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. Call to make an appointment to tour any of the 3 schools.

International Trilingual School of Warsaw ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/ saint-exupery.pl Established in 1994, and formerly known as Ecole Antoine de Saint

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The English Playhouse ul. Pływiańska 14a, tel. 22 843 9370, office open 8:00-16.00, www.tep.edu.pl The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old. For more info or to arrange a tour of the pre-school or nursery call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email: jnowak@theenglishplayhouse. com Happy Montessori House Warsaw Montessori Pre-school, ul. Rumiana 14, tel. 22 423 50 75, mob. 697 060 504, open 7.30-17:00, hmh.com.pl The Happy Montessori House offers part-time and fulltime places for children aged between 2 to 6 years, as well as toddler-focused activities (from 18 months to 3 years) centered around movement, sensorial stimulation, storytelling, singing and socialising.

Maple Tree Montessori ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, mapletreemontessori.pl Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). Find them located in the Wilanów district of Warsaw, in a house safely nestled into the end of a quiet street.

Montessori Academy for International Children ul. Królewicza Jakuba 36 (Wilanów), open Mon-Fri 8:00-16:15, ul. Sadowa 4 (Konstancin), Open 8:00-16:45, tel. 502 315 022, montessoriacademy.eu An English-speaking pre-school (16 months to 6 years of age) with two locations. The school’s policy is to comply with Montessori standards, using the Montessori Method in English. The school’s philosophy is based on the joy of learning, which comes from discovering and furthering the individual development of each child.

Primrose Bilingual Preschool ul. Bernardyńska 16A lok U7, tel. 22 415 8500, primrose.edu.pl Following the ‘immer-

listings / family sion’ method, each class has two teachers – one Polish-speaking, the other English.

Through this children have all-day contact with different languages, absorbing them in everyday situations. In accordance with the hands-on methodology, children also take part in daily workshops ranging from kitchen science to art and craft classes.

Trilingual Pre-school and Nursery “Three Languages” Center ul. Karowa 14/16 lok 6 (3-6 year olds); ul.

Cicha 5 lok 1 (1-2 year olds), open Mon-Fri 7:30-18:30, tel. 517 872 682, 3languages. pl The only trilingual pre-school and nursery teaching English, Spanish and Polish through total language immersion. All educators are native speaker pre-school teachers. The comprehensive curriculum follows American, Spanish and Polish curriculum standards.

The pre-school was awarded European Language Label in 2012.

schools American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, aswarsaw.org ASW is a premier collegepreparatory international school that offers a PK-12 curriculum, including the IB Diploma Program in Grades 11 and 12. Students are inspired and challenged every day by experienced and dedicated teachers, who provide

enriching learning opportunities in a world class facility. For further information and/ or to visit our school contact: admissions@ aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00.

The British Primary School of Wilanów ul. Hlonda 12, bsww.pl, tel. 781 988 000 Following the National Curriculum of England and Wales, this is the first School in Poland subject to the inspection of the UK Independent School Inspectorate. Pupils receive British and, upon request, Polish reports/diplomas. The school follows a closed admissions policy and limits enrollment of one nationality to below 50% of each class starting from Year 1.

The British School ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, open 8:00-16:00, british@thebritishschool. pl, thebritishschool.pl Premium international school established in 1992 by Nord Anglia Education. The curriculum is designed to provide the highest academic quality of education. They follow the English National Curriculum, adapted to the needs of their international student community: from Primary through to the Secondary Key Stages to the IGCSE examinations and a wellestablished International Baccalaureate (IB) Diploma Programme.

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations)

Warsaw Montessori School ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, warsawmontessori.edu.pl Casa dei Bambini Warsaw Montessori School are set to open their Erdkinder Montessori Middle School as of September 2016. Located at Tatrzańska 5A they promise an extraordinary opportunity for study, work and for daily living. Guided by trained specialists, students will be responsible for managing their household, operating small businesses, caring for local flora and fauna as well as domesticated animals, taking charge of the younger children and much more. “Adolescence Program” activities, integrated with academic studies, help students discover their inner strength to meet life’s real challenges.

The English Primary ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 784 037 808, admissions@tep.edu. pl, www.tep.edu.pl The English Primary is designed specifically for children in the primary education ages, just as children experience in England but in an international community. Pupils are taken through the key learning stages so that

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listings / family they can achieve to the best of their ability through a fun learning experience. The Core Curriculum subjects include English, Phonics, Science, Mathematics, French, PE and Swimming, Music, Personal, Social and Health Education. The school is a member of Council of British International Schools (COBIS).

The Canadian School of Warsaw Elementary School ul. Bełska 7, tel. 692 411573, admission@canadian-school.pl, canadian-school.pl Established in 2000 and located on three campuses in Mokotów, the Canadian School delivers the International Baccalaureate PYP in English and is registered with the Polish Education Authority. French is taught as a third language. Offers a wide range of extra curricula activities and employs Psychology, Speech and Pedagogical therapy specialists.

Provision is made for additional Polish and English language support.

The Canadian School of Warsaw Middle School ul. Olimpijska 11, tel. 885 420 044 / 885 620 066, secretary.olimpijska@canadian-school.pl, canadian-school.pl Provides a continuation of PREIB education for 11-15 year olds.

International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create a perfect

learning and creative thinking environment.

For further info, tours and school visits call or email. Also home to the Non-Public PsychoPedagogical Counseling Centre ‘Olimpia’ (tel.

885 620 066) which examines the level of mental, emotional, auditory and visual-motor functions’ development, and conducts individual and group pedagogical therapy, as well as individual psychotherapy..

International Trilingual School of Warsaw ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/ saint-exupery.pl Established in 1994, and formerly known as Ecole Antoine de Saint Exupery, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fill-immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French.

Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China.

Warsaw Montessori School ul. Szwoleżerów 4, tel. 22 841 3908, sylvia@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, warsawmontessori.edu.pl Focuses on the Montessori curriculum with an education based on the integration of conceptual learning and real-life experiences.

cafes Kolonia ul. Łęczycka (corner of Ładysława), koloniaochota.pl Not just an excellent cafe, Kolonia is aslo equipped with a garden/playground.

Kolonia is the most kid-friendly (and petfriendly) place in the area, offering fresh daily specials and a staff that always welcomes you with a smile.

Nabo ul. Zakręt 8, tel. 22 842 0256, nabocafe. pl Nabo is run by a Danish couple and its light and minimalist interior – designed by those who created R20 – lends itself to every occasion. But aside from its tasty and seasonal dishes, it’s the children’s corner that is causing the biggest commotion.

shops Kopytko Mamuta ul. Boya-Żeleńskiego 2 The creation of Kopytko Mamuta plugs a gap in the market, with beautifully cobbled shoes that are, in the words of the owner Agnieszka, ‘the essence of Parisian chic’.

Lullaby Multiple locations, lullaby.pl Jam packed with funky design and quirky gifts for your little ones. However, the exquisite clothing and designer labels do come with a hefty price tag.

Casa dei Bambini Warsaw Montessori School accepting

applications for all our locations and programs: Infant & Toddler: age 1-2.5, Casa: age 2.5-6 Contact Ela: tel. 692 099 134 office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl Elementary: age 6-9, 9-12 Contact Sylvia: tel. 606 276 112 sylvia@warsawmontessori.edu.pl "Erdkinder" Middle School: age 12-15 Contact Małgosia: tel. 604 137 826 malgosia@warsawmontessori.edu.pl

warsaw montessori school

Warszawa: Szwoleżerów 4, Badowska 19, Tatrzańska 5a, Izabelin-Hornówek: Szkolna 16

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www.warsawmontessori.edu.pl

health & beauty gyms Artis Wellness Club ul. Klimczaka 1 (Royal Wilanów), artisclub. pl And so here we have a contender for Warsaw’s best gym. Found in Royal Wilanów, this state-of-the-art gym boasts the latest technological advances in personal fitness, as well as a massive program of courses that range from group cycling and yoga to Zumba and body combat. Personal training and deluxe spa facilities also available.

Fitness Centre at the Radisson SAS Centrum Hotel ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888 Smallish but well-regarded gym with swimming pool, sauna, gym, and group classes inside one of Warsaw’s top five stars.

GO-KARTING A1 KARTING (pictured) (ul. Jagiellońska 82E, a1karting.pl) 50 CRG Karts for hire including several for children aged between 5 and 7. Claiming to be one of the most modern spaces of its genre in Europe, the 600 meter track is open seven days a week, and 365 days a year. Individual training also available.

KARTINGOWY NARADOWY (Al. Ks. J. Poniatowski 1, kartingowynarodowy.pl) Find the only outdoor asphalt track in Warsaw right on the doorstep of the National Stadium.

Created in 2015, and 550 meters in length, this innovative track claims to have the most innovative and precise lap timing system in the country. Grand Prix competitions can be organized for groups of eight or more.

RACING CENTER (ul. Krakowiaków 97, rcw.pl) Find what is allegedly the longest indoor track in Poland inside a 7,000 sq/m hall. For hire are Sodi 9hp karts for adults and Hubie karts for kids. Corporate and private events also organized.

POLE POSITION (ul. Powstańców Śląskich 126 & ul. Graniczna 15, pole-position.pl) The Bemowo location comes with a 1km track that the organizers claim to be the longest established in the city. Budding kid racers are invited to join the Academy, a course overseen by a former Polish karting champion.

Fitness Centre at the Sheraton Hotel ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6701, www.sheraton. com/warsaw The Sheraton spa features sauna, steam room and massage, while the gym comes with LCD-fitted running and cycling machines, and a dedicated cardio section. Personal training available, as are group classes covering pilates, yoga, aerobics and even ski conditioning.

Holmes Place Energy Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (C.H. Arkadia), ul.

Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), www. holmesplace.pl Making top-flight gym facilities available to the masses, the Holmes Place Energy brand offers high standard equipment, personal training and group classes. Six month membership available for approx. zł.

200 per month, though prices are subject to change. For latest details enquire direct.

Holmes Place Premium ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel), ul.

Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), holmesplace.pl Three ‘premium locations’, with the Hilton and Regent branches housing a 25-meter pool. Sauna and steam room facilities are available in all all three, as are a varied timetable of classes plus personal training. Prices, depending on the gym you choose, range from around zł.

179 to zł. 379 per month.

Little Gym ul. Bruzdowa 56, tel. 22 842 0728, www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / health & beauty www.thelittlegym.pl Targeted at children, expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-to-child ratio, original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. Englishspeaking, as well.

McFit ul. Świętokrzyska 3 (corner of Nowy Świat), tel. 22 313 1400, mcfit.com The budget European chain signals its arrival to Poland with a 2,000 sq/m studio that utilizes the latest technology as well as ‘cyber training’ programs. Open 24/7, with membership from zł. 89 per month.

Quantum Fitness ul. Piękna 15, quantumpiekna.pl Quantum takes the keep fit business to new levels. A place of quiet, understated luxury, equipment is state-of-the-art and complemented by expert trainers at the peak of their game. This is the full 24-carat gym experience, and one that comes with the added bonus of a luxury spa and a top-class physiotherapy wing.

Ride Warsaw ul. Karolkowa 30, ridewarsaw.com Around twice a day this small studio opens up to the public with group cycling classes overseen by a team of English-speaking instructors. This is not a leisurely Sunday pedal, but a high energy workout with a banging soundtrack and constant interaction with the trainer in charge.

RiverView Wellness Centre ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental), riverview.com.pl Top-class facilities and equipment, private instructors and small classes. The view from the highest pool in Europe offers a glorious panorama of the city and is almost worth the membership fee alone. Annual prices begin from around zł.

4,000.

spas & salons Dotyk SPA ul. Biały Kamień 3, tel. 22 898 7272, open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Sat 9:00-18:00, dotykspa.pl Probably the only place in Warsaw where you’ll get a facial yoga session. Going futher east, treat yourself to Japanese, Polynesian or Indian massage.

Fiuu Fiuu Day Spa ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 629 2414.

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A wonderful quick fix salon that makes use of the latest Ericson products and other top brands. Regarded as one of the top ladies day spas in the country.

Hair a Porter ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent, level -1), hair-a-porter.pl A staunch favorite among the ex-pat crowd, Hair a Porter offer the ultimate hair experience utilizing talented staff and top-quality products.

Haircology ul. Rozbrat 44A, tel. 669 780 669, haircology.pl An upmarket ecologically minded hairdresser that eschews such things as synthetic fragrances, silicon and preservatives.

Le Spa ul. Mokotowska 55, tel. 22 622 9428 This little island of peace and beauty takes you light-years away from the bustle of Warsaw.

Nail & Beauty Bar ul. Mokotowska 26, tel. 22 621 1404 A top spot for a classic manicure or pedicure – they also do lots of complicated things with gels and other hi-tech nail discoveries. Also on Elektoralna 24.

ouch!

Ouch! ul. Belwederska 32, 22 240 87 67; ul. Bonifraterska 8, tel. 22 298 11 12, ouch. pl Experts in waxing, Ouch! Aim their offer at ‘busy women looking for express treatments with lasting effects who, at the same time, appreciate a sense of intimacy’. High quality waxes, including fast and accurate epilation treatments whose effects last up to four weeks. Wax treatments for the whole body.

DEPILACJA WOSKIEM

PARDON MY FRENCH

manicure pedicure

Pardon My French ul. Belwederska 32, tel. 22 240 62 90; Bonifraterska 8, tel. 22 298 11 10; ul. Mokotowska 56, tel. 22 298 10 10, pardonmyfrench.pl Manicure and pedicure treatments with high quality lacquers and an awareness of global trends: if you need an endorsement, Paul McCartney visited when he was in Poland! Free wifi and coffee, as well as the possibility of hosting baby showers and bachelorette parties. Open from 9-8

during the week and 9-5 on Sat (with the Mokotowska branch also welcoming visitors on Sunday from 10-4).

The Pedicure Place ul. Pokorna 2, lok. u11, pedicure-place. pl A luxury pedi/manicure clinic with room for 10. All the latest OPI varnishes and over 200 colors guarantee you’ll find the latest in styling and nail care.

Quantum Clinic ul. Piękna 15, quantumpiekna.pl Using first class, pioneering methods and technology, the Quantum Clinic surpasses the norms that Warsaw has become used to. For the full Hollywood treatment, restore and replenish the body at a luxury spa devised to enhance the body and mind.

Rostowski Barber Shop ul. Koszykowa 58, rostowskibarbershop.pl A true celebration of the vintage barber shop, Rostowski have the ambiance nailed to a tee thanks to a crew that’s ready for banter and an interior replete with jack-up chairs, glinting zinc and restored floor tiles.

Retro Day Spa Al. Ujazdowskie 18/11, no. 311, tel. 22 622 03 69 Royally indulgent interiors hark back to a different century, though the treatments are all hi-tech and include packages for pregnant women among the variety of beauty offers.

Sante ul. Jagiellońska 55A, studiosante.pl The dry and wet steam room left the Insider impressed, but not as much as the ‘mood rooms’ – imagine a lunar landscape chamber with a salt-covered floor. The other, meanwhile, comes clad in minerals with recliners hewn from heated tiles. As you stare at the mantra above the mind lets go and you feel almost as if your body is moving. Amazing.

Studio Jej i Jego ul. Wiertnicza 93A, tel. 22 885 0085, .jejijego.pl Hair and beauty treatments for men and women – inc. nail care, massage, facial and body treatments.

You & You Maciej Wróblewski ul. Grzybowska 61 (Galeria Platinum Towers), tel. 606 994 226, youandyou.eu Poland’s premier hair stylist is Maciej Wróblewski, and his flagship salon fuses a personal approach with professional styling. Disappointments are unheard of.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

in the city

ON INSTAGRAM #warsawinsider

Our Instagram gofer reprises his role as the Insider’s official recorder of the beautiful, banal and bizarre side of town. For your daily dose of quirky Spring happenings, check out our Instagram account for yourself...

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listings / in the city VISITORS accomodation

Marriott Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 6306, www.warsawmarriott.com

5-Star Hotels

Regent Warsaw Hotel ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, reservations@regent-warsaw.com, www.regent-warsaw.com

Bellotto ul. Senatorska 13/15, tel. 22 829 6444, hotelbellotto.pl

The Rialto Boutique Hotel ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8700, www.rialto.pl

Bristol Hotel ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1000, bristol@luxurycollection. com, www.hotelbristolwarsaw.pl

Sheraton ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6100, www.sheraton.pl Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-warsaw

H15 Boutique ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 553 8700, info@h15ab.com, www.h15ab.com Hilton Warsaw ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555 / 800 44 11 482, www.hilton.com

Sofitel Warsaw Victoria ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8011, www.sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com

InterContinental ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com

Westin Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, www.westin.pl

B&B

Mamaison Le Régina Hotel Warsaw ul. Kościelna 12, tel. 22 531 6000, www. mamaison.com

Between Us Bed & Breakfast ul. Bracka 20, tel. 22 8285417 (from 10

w W a r s a www.city-tour.com.pl

Yellow Double-Decker Bus

Invites you to experience a panoramic tour of tourist attractions of the capital of Poland, Warsaw, in a relaxing and comfortable way.

Traveling over the course of approximately 1,5 hour, a double-decker bus will take you past many beautiful and interesting places of Warsaw, such as its interesting districts, palaces and churches, monuments and museums, parks and historical cemeteries, as well as the Jewish historical sites.

A GPS 12 language audio-guide, will give explanations and accompany you to make your ride a more adventurous, exciting and an unforgettable one.

Excellent Hop on Hop off and one trip service operates every day all year round.

5% DISCOUNT with this ad

Line approved by municipal authorities.

www.city-tour.com.pl

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+48 500 033 414

a.m. to 11p.m.), www.between-us.eu

RESIDENTS relocation companies Arkpol ul. Słowikowskiego 27, arkpol.com Specialists in international ‘door-to-door’ movals, with packaging, storage and customs clearance part of the deal.

Interdean International Relocation ul. Geodetów 172, Piaseczno, tel. 22 701 7171

Move One Relocations ul. Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 8160, www.moveonerelo.com Also immigration assistance, fine art shipping, pet transport and consulting services.

Relo Planet ul. Batalinou Platerówek 3, tel. 22 658 1958, reloplanet.com International, domestic and office removals, corporate

listings / in the city and individual relocations, fine art shipping, storage, insurance, as well as a full range of assistance services (immigration, etc.).

museums Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. 22 596 4100, kopernik.org.pl Interactive, witty and surprising, Copernicus allows visitors to experience an earthquake, blast recyclable objects into space and become a mystery cracking detective.

CSW ul. Jazdów 2, csw.art.pl Situated in a baroquestyle castle the center hosts artists from all over the world. The on-site bookshop is of particular interest for artists and intellectuals.

Ongoing till January 11: Reel-Unreel (Afghan Projects 2010-2014). Polish-born artist Francis Alys presents a selection of paintings, sketches, documents and collages related to his travels around Afghanistan. Forming the centerpiece is his film, Reel-Unreel.

Dom Spotkań z Historią ul. Karowa 20, dsh.waw.pl The History Meeting House wins points for frequently excellent exhibitions that cover topics such as ‘rebuilding Warsaw’ and ‘Socialist Realist architecture.’ It won’t take longer than twenty minutes to peruse whatever exhibition is on, but it’s still a very worthwhile diversion and one of the city’s top secrets.

Invisible Exhibition Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, niewidzialna.pl Nothing challenges the sense of sight more than a total lack of it. Confused? Head to the Invisible Exhibition to learn first-hand the challenges faced by the blind. This includes everything from crossing the road to ordering a drink in a bar.

Polin - Museum of the History of Polish Jews ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl Composed of eight galleries, each covers a different stage of local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day. Covering 4,000 sq/m, highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec synagogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical interwar Jewish Warsaw street.

National Museum Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars.

The Neon Museum ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum. org This amazing project brings together the neon lights that once illuminated the city.

Among the collection are 35 landmark signs, many of which date from the 60s and 70s.

The Royal Castle in Warsaw Pl. Zamkowy 4, zamek-krolewski.pl Meticu-

lously restored after WWII, highlights inside include the lavishly restored 18th century royal apartments with 22 paintings by Bernardo Bellotto (known as Canaletto), the Senators’ Chamber in which the Constitution of the Third of May was signed, the biggest collection of oriental rugs in Europe in the tin-roofed palace and two remarkable Rembrandt paintings.

The Warsaw Amber Museum Rynek Starego Miasta 4/6, bursztynek.co Part of Bursztynek, a dedicated amber shop, has been turned into a curious museum detailing the history of amber.

Warsaw Rising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl Cope with the crowds to discover the definitive story of the 1944 Uprising. Exhibits range from a full-size replica of a Liberator plane, to a sewer beneath the cinema screen and a slice of bread preserved from 1944. And don’t miss the ‘City of Ruins’, a five minute 3D film which takes you on an aerial journey over devastated Warsaw.

Zachęta National Art Gallery Pl. Małachowskiego 3, zacheta.art.pl Featuring in the collection are works by ToulouseLautrec, Cezanne, Ernst and Picasso, as well as luminaries of the Polish art scene such as Tadeusz Kantor, Alina Szapocznikow, Katarzyna Kozyra and Zbigniew Libera.

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A Pillar of Strength

More than just Warsaw’s favorite rendez-vous point, Zygmunt’s column has come to be regarded as one of the defining features of not just the city, but Poland as a whole... BY STUART DOWELL

I

n 1644, when Władysław IV unveiled his statue in memorial to his father Zygmunt III, could he have believed that Warsaw’s first secular monument would still be looking down on Castle Square nearly 400 years later? It is unlikely, as his motives were very much anchored in the seventeenth century.

Zygmunt II August had already moved his court to Warsaw in the 1560s and the Sejm was held in the city from 1569. When the Union of Lublin was signed in the same year joining the Kingdoms of Poland and Lithuania, Kraków just wasn’t up to the job of being the capital any more. Zygmunt III finally made Warsaw Poland’s capital in 1596, and so it was good politics for his son to strengthen the Vasa dynasty’s rule in Poland by erecting the towering column.

It’s called Zygmunt’s column, but in fact it is made up of four parts: the four-sided plinth, the column itself, the grand Corinthian capital, and finally the bronze statue, all making up an impressive 22 meters.

Zygmunt appears in full armor with his coronation gown draped over his shoulders. His crown is closed in the Swedish style, as befitted his dynastic house. The sculptor, Clemente Molli, purposefully extended Zygmunt’s legs and simplified his facial features, both tricks that improve the effect when viewed from ground level.

The monument has been renovated several times. In 1854, the prolific architect Henryk Marconi designed attractive railings around the plinth with four bronze water-spurting Tridents at each corner.

Later, in 1887, the original stone column was replaced with a new

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granite one, both of which now lie prone by the southern wall of the Royal Castle.

Warsaw has been attacked, invaded and occupied many times on Zygmunt’s watch, but local legend always held that as long as he didn’t drop his sword, the city would avoid catastrophe. He had kept his word until early September 1944 during the Warsaw Uprising when finally a German tank shell struck the column and sent him crashing to earth shattering his cross-bearing arm and snapping his sword clean off.

After the war, Zygmunt was speedily patched up and placed on a new column. The unveiling took place on the day the W-Z Route passing under Old Town was opened. In truth, the column’s latest incarnation is a bit disappointing – the former gold lettering and reddish granite was replaced by a uniform drab gray. In another sense, though, Zygmunt is the perfect embodiment of Warsaw’s post-war reconstruction – some of him is new, though he’s supposed to look old, while his old bits were rescued and lovingly restored. One thing is for sure, though; Zygmunt’s DNA is 100% Warsaw.

PHOTOGRAPH SHUTTERSTOCK

LOOKING BACK

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