Warsaw Insider April 2017 #248

• Jewish Ghetto Uprising • Aerial Photography • Gallery Of Steel Figures • The Rolling Stones!

Warsaw The Capital’s Original City Magazine Since 1996

APRIL 2017

248 04/2017

INDEKS 334901 ISSN:1643-1723

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Moving? zł.10

(VAT 8% included)

ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER ALEXANDRE BIRMAN ANYA HINDMARCH AQUAZZURA BALMAIN BUSCEMI CASADEI CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN FRANCESCO RUSSO GIANVITO ROSSI HERVE LEGER ISABEL MARANT KENZO KOTUR MAISON MICHEL ONE TEASPOON SELF – PORTRAIT TOD’S TORY BURCH VALENTINO VICTORIA BECKHAM YVES SALOMON

Moliera 2 tel.: 228277099, www.Moliera2.com

APRIL 2017 Editor-in-chief Alex Webber

insider@warsawinsider.pl Art Director Kevin Demaria insider@warsawinsider.pl Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com

INFRONT

Opener 9 News 10 Living History 12 We’re Talking About 14

FEATURES

Rolling Stones 1967 16 Aerial Photography 18 Ghetto Uprising 22 University of Technology 26

Out of Town 30

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Warsaw Insider | APRIL 2017

Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

REVIEWS

Le Cedre Lounge 33 Sokotra 34 Warsaw Beer Festival 36

PARTNER NEWS

The Latest Marketpalce News From The Warsaw Insider’s Friends and Advertisers 38

LISTINGS

Restaurants 42 Cafes & Wine Bars 72 Nightlife 75 Shopping 80 Family 82 Health & Beauty 87 In the City 89

INBACK

Map 94 Looking Back 96

Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com Business Development Manager A. Julita Pryzmont jpryzmont@valkea.com ey Account Manager K Agata Sicińska asicinska@valkea.com ey Account Manager K Piotr Pawłowski ppawlowski@valkea.com Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com Subscription 12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland.

Orders can be placed through: insider@warsawinsider.pl Printed by Zakład Poligraficzny TECHGRAF Tel. (17) 225-28-69 VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies.

All information ©2017 Warsaw Insider.

on the cover Reduced to a skeleton, the future of the iconic Rotunda hangs in the balance! See p. 12,

(Illustration by Michał Miszkurka)

PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT

That wasn’t the worst winter

we’ve ever had, at least not in the traditional sense: blizzards were rare and temperatures never came close to hitting those ugly depths when your eyes freeze shut. What made it murderous was that choking, acrid smog that hung over Warsaw for weeks at a time.

Spring, with its sense of new beginnings and crystal blue skies, feels like a breath of fresh air. With parks these past few months resembling little more than grim, muddy patches, the sight of tulips and daffodils thrusting upwards is welcome indeed. But in Warsaw’s case, daffodils have another association: indelibly linked with the Jewish Ghetto Uprising, this issue we take a deeper look at this doomed wartime revolt. And that’s not the only anniversary that falls this month: April marks fifty years since The Stones rolled into town – a gig like no other, it’s an event that still gets talked about in reverential terms. If you weren’t around (or alive), we’ve got the back story on that.

Elsewhere, we’ve untapped the secrets of the Polytechnic, discovered a world-first in Pruszków and spoken to the Birdman of Warsaw. As always, enjoy!

Contributors: Stuart Dowell Maria Mileńko Michał Miszkurka Ed Wight

CASADEI CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN MEN FAY GIANVITO ROSSI MEN KENZO MONCLER ONE TEASPOON RALPH LAUREN TOD’S TORY BURCH VALENTINO VICTORIA BECKHAM BURBERRY CHILDREN DSQUARED2 KIDS KENZO KIDS MONCLER KIDS

this month...

Food

Event

1-2 April @ National Stadium The food trucks are out of hibernation!

Marking the start of the new ‘food truck season’, this two-day event already has 80 vendors signed up to appear.

7-9 April @ Al. Katowicka 62, Nadarzyn Reptiles, rodents, fish, cats and dogs...

Warsaw Animal Days will also present the ‘Ministry of Butterflies’, dog agility shows, an exotic animal exhibition, and several stalls selling pet supplies, food, supplements and equipment.

Food Truck Festival

Warsaw Animal Days

For info, see: fb.com/zarcienakolkach

Tickets from zł. @ animalsdays.eu/bilet

Comedy

Eddie Izzard 2 April @ Palladium, ul. Złota 9 Once dubbed ‘The Lost Python’ by the none other than the Monty Python team, Eddie Izzard comes to Poland with a stellar reputation as one of the world’s finest comedians. His Warsaw visit is part of his European Force Majeure tour.

Tickets from zł. 99 @ standuppolska.pl

Community

Easter Market 2nd April @ Ethnographic Museum, ul. Kredytowa 1 This year’s market will offer beer and snacks from Poland’s regions and plenty of folk art: Easter eggs, baskets, jewelry and ceramics. Visitors can also partake in culinary classes and workshops. For further info, see: ethnomuseum.pl Tickets from zł. 6-10 (children under 7 free).

Market

The Stuff 9 April @ Babka, Młocińska 5/7 Celebrating the finer things in a man’s life, The Stuff features live music, seminars, tastings and a Brand Area selling top notch clothing and accessories aimed at the modern day gentleman.

“This is the answer to the neglected voice of the male population,” say the organizers.

Run

Marathon 23 April, 10:00 @ National Stadium The 40km run begins at the Stadium before looping and criss-crossing through Warsaw. For details on registration check their English-language website for details.

For further info, see: orlenmarathon.pl

BROUGHT TO YOU BY THE WARSAW AMBER MUSEUM

Around The Amber Different kinds of amber have been discoverd around the world with all demonstrating distinct properties that make each and every one unique. But what do they look like? Where can we find them? And how were they used over the centuries? The answers to all those questions and more can be found at the new temporary exhibition inside The Warsaw Amber Museum.

Allow us to invite you on a free journey around the world of amber...

THE WARSAW AMBER MUSEUM Rynek Starego Miasto 4/6, tel. 506 007 685, biuro@muzeumbursztynu.com, www.muzeumbursztynu.com

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Warsaw Insider | APRIL 2017

Wrzeciono Czasu ...luxury watches with heart & soul

Showroom “Wrzeciono Czasu”

C.H. Panorma Pawilon 137 , Piętro 1 Al. W.Witosa 31, Tel. 512 301 928 www.wrzecionoczasu.pl

in

What’s hot, what’s not: the faces and stories trending around town THE SMOG CENTRE IN NUMBERS

60,000 People

Visited Smok’s website in one day

1,000 Złoty...

The price of renting the unit for two weeks

100 Złoty...

The cost of each poster produced

by Miasto Jest Nasze

66 Złoty...

The price each dummy pack of Smok cigs cost to produce

50

Złoty...

The price of an anti-smog plant available at the center

12.99

PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

PUFF THE MAGIC DRAGON

A pop-up store on Szpitalna 4 caused outrage last month after advertising the forthcoming arrival of a new range of kid-friendly cigarettes. Available in five flavors (apple & mint, raspberry & peach, lemon, blackcurrant and melon), and featuring snappy slogans (“Help yourself, friend!”), the ciggies were marketed as a fun introduction to the pleasures of tobacco. However, all was not what it seemed. With the internet in full-on meltdown, the news was eventually revealed as an elaborate marketing hoax aimed at bringing Warsaw’s smog crisis to the attention of the public. “In general people seem apathetic about the smog,” said a spokesman for Miasto Jest Nasze, the NGO behind the action, “but the facts are just by living in this city children are basically inhaling the equivalent of one packet of cigarettes per week.” As a PR stunt the ploy was an overwhelming success with curiosity seekers flocking to what transpired to be a temporary smog information center run by Miasto Jest Nasze.

Złoty...

The price Smok cigarettes were advertised for

2

Weeks...

The amount of time it was opened

0.36

Złoty...

The amount Warsaw spends per capita on air and climate protection www.warsawinsider.pl

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inFront

news Off The Wall

On The Fly

Plans for a central national airport are one step closer to take-off after it was announced that a tentative proposal had been approved by the Economic Committe of the Council of Ministers. Located between Warsaw and Łódź, the airport will have the capacity to handle 50 million passenger per annum, making it one of the most important transport hubs in Europe. Warsaw’s Chopin Aiport recorded 12.8 passengers last year, though analysts suggest it’s already operating close to full capacity with little chance of further expansion.

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Warsaw Insider | APRIL 2017

Top Dog

The Warsaw Spire has been named the best business and office development in the world at the 2017 MIPIM real estate awards held in Cannes. Completed in May 2016, the office complex beat off competition from 44 other countries to claim the prestigious prize. Comprising of a 220-meter tower, two flanking side buildings and the first general-access urban square in Warsaw’s post-war history, the Spire has become symbolic of the area’s transformation into the capital’s new Central Business District.

CLOCKWISE FROM BOTTOM LEFT: SHUTTERSTOCK, FACEBOOK, PRESS MATERIAL

A mural celebrating October’s pro-choice march was controversially removed last month and replaced with a billboard. Crowdfunded by over 1,000 seperate donations, the giant wall painting on Targowa 15 paid tribute to the nationwide Czarny Protest movement credited with stopping a parliamentary bill to ban abortion. Conservative-minded local councillors had previously criticized the mural for ‘violating moral and aesthetic values’, though have since claimed it was given the chop as the agreement giving the mural the green light was only valid for three months.

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inFront

city

LIVING HISTORY

Warsaw continues to develop at pace, with three structures all making headlines in the last few weeks...

Past ROUND HOLE, SQUARE PEG

Work to take down the Rotunda in the center of Warsaw came to a halt in mid-March after one of the city’s conservators ordered a stop to the demolition process. Built in the 60s, the order came after officials realized that the building’s steel skeleton was, in fact, original and therefore subject to a protection order. However, the decree has sparked off a furious row between activists, developers and other conservators who dispute the historical legacy of the structure. An explosion that ripped through the building in 1975 had been thought to have annulled the original value of the iconic building; now, the extent of the damage suffered in the blast has become central to the debate.

Present IVORY TOWER

Ten years after work began, Złota 44 was finally officially opened on March 13th. Plagued by missed deadlines and financial woes, the residential tower has been beset by misfortune and criticism: architect Daniel Liebeskind faced a fierce backlash when it became clear that his skyscraper would bear little resemblance to the sleek, sail-shaped object first envisaged in his renderings. After such an inauspicious beginning hopes are high that the worst is behind Złota 44.

Over 50% of the units have been sold, with tenants including the Polish football star Robert Lewandowski. Prices for property inside the 52-floor behemoth climb to zł. 40,000 per sq/m.

Future GO WEST

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Warsaw Insider | APRIL 2017

A major overhaul of Zachodnia railway station has been announced, with Glebowski Studio and Idom taking the lead on a two-year revamp that will kick-off in 2019. The plans foresee the eightmeter wide underpass expanded to 50-meters, a subterranean plaza, an underground tram tunnel and a general upgrade of the platforms and station. The design team have stressed that the work shall pay tribute to the modernist contours and aesthetics of the original.

inFront

city

onset of spring brings with it a number WE’RE TALKING ABOUT The of dynamite events to keep an eye out for...

So much more than just a satisfying word to say over and over (and over again), Śmigus-dyngus is the day Poles engage in pre-noon water fights as part of an age old ritual relating to Easter.

Anyone, strangers included, is fair game – watch it!

Easter Monday (April 17th)

TVP, the state controlled channel, have parted company with popular TV chef Robert Makłowicz after 20 years of cooperation.

Despite denials to the contrary, Makłowicz’s fans are convinced that the move is politically motivated and as such will be airing their grievances by way of an open-air ‘cook-in’ outside TVP’s office.

Each year the outbreak of the Jewish Ghetto Uprising is remembered by the issuance of approximately 50,000 paper daffodils in the immediate area around the Polin museum.

Distributed by young volunteers, the daffodil campaign was first coined in 2013 and the flower has since become indelibly associated with the Ghetto rising. For details, see p. 22.

19th April at Polin (ul. Anielewicza 6)

“I’m a monster maker and worshipper of organic hand gestures,” says artist Dawid Majgat, “I create projects characterized by their absurdity, alluding to everyday life, the present and the past, pop-culture, folk-culture, video games, cartoons and tribalism.” Find out more about the self-proclaimed ambassador of Republic Y at MiTO. Gold’n’Fish (exhibition by Dawid Majgat) runs until May 8th MiTO (Waryńskiego 28)

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Warsaw Insider | APRIL 2017

ALL PHOTOS SHUTTERSTOCK EXCEPT DAWID MAJGAT, COURTESY OF THE ARTIST

2nd April, 11 a.m. till 11 p.m. at Woronicza 17

The recently opened restaurant and bar Mokotowska 69 is a perfect place for those who enjoy refined food and excellent wine.

The restaurant offers classic Polish dishes with a modern twist, delicious steaks and a wide range of wine from all over the world.

Mokotowska 69 was designed for those who enjoy Polish cuisine and those who would like to try classic Polish dishes with a modern twist, such as Mazurian crayfish in rowan brandy cream sauce, roasted catfish with pearl barley and beets or roasted duck with pears and blackcurrant. The restaurant also specialises in steaks made from American Black Angus (certified prime grade by the USDA), Scottish Aberdeen Angus and the highest quality Japanese Tajima-gyu cattle, “Kobe-style”: class 5, marbling 9+. ul. Mokotowska 69, tel. (+48 22) 628 73 84 / (+48 22) 627 20 33, www.mokotowska69.pl

The restaurant and wine store Merliniego 5, located vis-à- vis the main entrance to the Warszawianka Aqua Park, is the ideal place for those who love good food and fantastic wines. Merliniego 5 specialises in seafood dishes and steaks made of American Black Angus (prime beef USDA certified), especially selected from the New York-based OTTOMANELLI & SONS butchery. The restaurant also serves steaks made of the Aberdeen Angus and top quality Japanese beef from Tajima cattle, “Kobe style” (grade 5A/BMS 9+). Further, menu offers seasonal and traditional Polish cuisine dishes. At the end of 2011, the readers of Gazeta Stołeczna granted us the prestigious title of Knajpa Roku 2011 (Eating Establishment of the Year 2011). Since 2013 we have also been listed in the Michelin Guide. ul. Merliniego 5, tel. (+48 22) 646 08 10 / (+48 22) 646 08 49, www.merliniego5.pl

PHOTOGRAPHS PAP

MUSIC ROCK‘N’ROLL

When The Stones Rolled Into Town April 13th signals the 50th anniversary of two riotous gigs by The Rolling Stones – Warsaw still hasn’t forgotten... BY ALEX WEBBER

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L

ong before they became a commercial juggernaut fueled by greed, The Rolling Stones were a pretty handy band. Actually, make that one of the best that’s ever lived. But more than just revolutionizing music they were a cultural force to be reckoned with. A wild whirlwind that epitomized the rock’n’roll lifestyle, The Stones were reaching the height of their fame when they found themselves in Warsaw as part of their European tour.

The year was 1967, and The Stones weren’t just approaching their creative peak, but also causing ‘Stop the Press’ headlines with their outrageous behavior. Synonymous with sex and drugs, scandal followed them everywhere they went. It’s curious, therefore, that an Eastern Bloc country isolated from the decadent West would choose to invite such a ticking time bomb over. How Władysław Jakubowski, the deputy director of Pagart – the state run ‘events agency’ – managed to secure permission from higher authorities remains a secret he took to his grave. What is known is that the band were paid a pittance: in his memoirs, Bill Wyman likens the pay packet to amounting to little more than ‘alms’. Nevertheless, The Stones realized the historic connotations of being one of the first major Western bands to play behind the Iron Curtain and jumped at the opportunity – though they soon wished they hadn’t.

First impressions weren’t kind.

Wyman would later remember the airport as looking like a ‘barracks’ and customs as being little more than ‘a tin hovel’. Kept for an hour while their luggage was meticulously searched (even their toothpaste was squeezed out and replaced by inferior issue Polish paste), they were then whisked to their spartan digs at the Hotel Europejski. Plans for a walkabout were scrapped after the secret service intervened and a scheduled press conference only went ahead after hotel staff received a bribe. According to some anecdotes, The Stones finished their first evening in Poland glumly drinking vodka in a bar that was empty aside for three prostitutes.

The mood of the band was in direct contrast to that of the locals. A few posters announcing their imminent arrival had first appeared a couple of day beforehand, however, this being

It was as if a UFO had landed in our gray communist world April many brushed it off as an April Fool’s prank. When word spread that The Stones were indeed here Warsaw’s youth went crazy descending en masse to Sala Kongresowa on the day of the gigs. “It was as if a UFO had landed in our gray communist world,” recalled one fan. Tickets, issued exclusively to ‘friends of the party’, were gold dust.

Touts made a fortune, though many fans simply resorted to brute force to charge their way in past batonwielding cops. It’s estimated that by the time the band took the stage, over 5,000 people had squashed inside a

venue that had an official capacity of half that.

Legitimate ticket holders sat pofaced in the front rows while at the back commotion grew as youngsters maximized this chance to act like their Western counterparts. Mick, at his peacocking best, antagonized an already volatile situation by spitting flowers at the front row and gesticulating at the police. Keith, meanwhile, went one step further: “You fucking lot,” he railed, “you can fucking get out and let the bastards in the back down the front!” Sala Kongresowa erupted in a way Stalin could never have imagined... Running battles were waged outside in the interval between concerts, and Bill Wyman later claimed that The Stones were so shocked by the police violence that they later drove around town handing out LPs to their hardcore fans.

The gigs, parts of which can be found on YouTube, have gone down in Warsaw folklore, and while they remain cloaked in more myth than fact, one thing is certain: this was a concert to remember. “Was that a hurricane that hit Warsaw yesterday?” asked one newspaper headline, “No, it was The Rolling Stones!” www.warsawinsider.pl

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PHOTOGRAPHY AERIAL PERSPECTIVE

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Warsaw Insider | APRIL 2017

www.warsawinsider.pl

19

Ahead of the launch of his new exhibition and book, aerial photographer Maciej Margas talks to the Insider about the thrills and spills of his chosen vocation...

Point of VIEW

PHOTOGRAPHY AERIAL PERSPECTIVE Go on, how does it feel being up there?

What I really love is the overwhelming feeling of freedom and the thousands of ways I can photograph.

It’s my call where we head, how high we go and which lens I use. It’s an extraordinary feeling when you’re 3,000 meters above ground and the helicopter is turning so sharply that you’re practically hanging from the safety harness: you feel so alive.

It’s all so dynamic – within seconds you’re flying over an entirely different place and have to decide, fast, what to do and how to do it.

Do you have a specific part of Warsaw you love flying over?

I don’t think I have one favorite place, I’d rather choose a favorite part of the day and that would be right after sunset. The city lights are all on, but you’ve still got the sky streaked in orange and blue. It’s amazing to see how it can all change so quickly within a few minutes.

How have your flights over Warsaw differed?

My first was in 2015, and as I was still a newbie I didn’t manage to shoot much more than the city center. In 2016 I knew which areas I wanted and since this time we were flying at 3,000 meters we could fly freely over all of Warsaw – even the airports. When you’re that high you can zoom in on a distant district and it’ll take five minutes to fly from one end to the other. The second time I was much more aware of the technicalities and that made planning and photographing much easier. Before, I also had a crew taking care of the harness, lines and general safety – the second time around I was dealing with all that myself.

What are the biggest challenges of aerial photography?

To start, cost: a two-engine helicopter flying 600-900 meters above ground costs zł. 10,000 per hour (plus VAT). There aren’t any institutions who care much for documenting Warsaw from the air for future generations, so raising the money is an issue. My second flight, in a smaller helicopter, was arranged via a crowdfunding campaign. Thanks to that, I managed to secure four hours of flight time.

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Then there’s the equipment: flying at night over Warsaw you need cameras capable of creating low-noise images at a high ISO (6400-12500). My technological partner on the project was Canon Poland and they rented me their best cameras: a 5DsR capable of shooting 50mpix images, and a 1DX (later a 1DX-2) capable of shooting over 14 frames per second – when your hands are trembling, the wind is in your face and the whole helicopter is shaking, you’re shooting like crazy to just get one sharp image. The day before, I also suddenly remembered I needed lots more memory cards – imagine how that would have looked if I had gone up in the chopper only to find I didn’t have any memory. I called all my friends and we went on a mad dash around Warsaw collecting up cards.

And the weather?

I’d say that’s the second biggest problem. You can’t predict it a month ahead, and even three days ahead you’re left pretty much guessing.

When we did the 3,000 meter flight we waited for over two months for the right conditions: three times the flight got called off when we were already at the airport. By the time it went ahead it was November and the temperature was approximately 20 degrees colder than on ground level.

Further, many of the permits you need are only issued a week before; the photo equipment might already be rented to someone else; you need to stay in touch with all the crew. You need to be immune to stress, be able to make fast decisions and have bags of patience. With all that to consider, it’s hard to work concurrently on something else so you have to really be able to dedicate your working life to photography.

What have you learned from looking down?

In terms of land mass Warsaw is five times bigger than Paris – did you know that! At the same time, the whole agglomeration has five times fewer people. You only get a sense of Warsaw’s size from the air: it just goes on and on. I think that makes it different to many places, such as Paris or Rome. It’s also very chaotic – it’s very hard to find any system in place with regards to the pattern of the streets – and there’s also still so many empty plots, even in the city center. Finally, I learned to look on Warsaw as a living organism, and that’s how I ended up organizing my book: by showing, among other things, its lungs, heart, fabric and so on. Warsaw is so big and complex, even when you see it as a whole you’ll never be able to understand it...

WARSAW ON AIR MACIEJ’S EXHIBITION OPENS ON APRIL 2ND AT 7 P.M. ADMISSION IS FREE ON LAUNCH NIGHT. BEYOND THAT, THE EXHIBITION RUNS UNTIL APRIL 13TH FROM 1 P.M. TILL 9 P.M. FIND IT ON THE 35TH FLOOR OF THE WARSAW TRADE TOWER (UL. CHŁODNA 51).

ADMISSION IS PRICED AT ZŁ. 5.

WARSAW ON AIR is also available as a 256-page hardback photo album.

Written in Polish and English, this epic souvenir is priced at zł. 99 and available only from: warsawgiftshop.com

www.warsawinsider.pl

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ANNIVERSARY THE GHETTO UPRISING

IN THE GHETTO

April 19th marks the anniversary of the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising, one of the most heroic and tragic stories to come out of WWII. Although the Ghetto was reduced to rubble after the failure of the rebellion, sites linked to it remain numerous in number...

D

espite constituting a third of the city’s population, Warsaw’s Jews found themselves packed inside an area spanning just 2.5% of the city. The largest of all the 800 or so ghettos in Nazi-occupied Europe, the Warsaw Ghetto was sealed in October 1941with deportations to the gas chambers of Treblinka beginning the following year. On April 18th, 1943, news trickled out that the Ghetto would finally be emptied and liquidated the following day. With nothing left to lose those Jews that remained opted to go out with a fight.

Although outnumbered and hopelessly ill-equipped (their arsenal totaled two sub-machine guns, 17 rifles, 500 pistols and several homemade explosives), the Jews held on for a number of weeks frustrating German attacks with classic street-fighting tactics. The ensuing battles raged until May 16th, eventually culminating in the symbolic demolition

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Warsaw Insider | APRIL 2017

of the Grand Synagogue. “What a marvelous sight it was,” recalled the German commander, Jurgen Stroop, “a fantastic piece of theater. I held the electrical device which would detonate all the charges simultaneously. I glanced over at my brave officers and men, tired and dirty, silhouetted against the glow of the burning buildings, and after prolonging the suspense for a moment, I shouted Heil Hitler and pressed the button.” The Ghetto had ceased to exist.

What To See

MIŁA 18 Mordechai Anielewicz, the commander of the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising, conducted operations from a bunker on Miła 18. All that remains now is a grassy mound and memorial stone lying halfway up ul. Dubois. It’s said that over 100 Jewish fighters lie buried underneath,

PHOTO LEFT FROM ALBUM “1947. THE COLORS OF RUIN. THE RECONSTRUCTION OF WARSAW AND POLAND IN THE PHOTOGRAPHS OF HENRY N. COBB”, DSH, RIGHT KEVIN DEMARIA

Then; ul. Zamenhofa and surrounds, 1947

Now; Monument to the Heroes of the Ghetto Uprising, ul. Zamenhofa, 2017

including Anielewicz who committed suicide on May 8th as the Nazi piped poisonous gas into the bunker.

“What’s most important,” wrote Anielewicz in his final letter, “is that the dream of my life has become a reality.

I have lived to see Jewish defence in the Ghetto in all its greatest splendor.”

THE MONUMENT TO THE HEROES OF THE GHETTO UPRISING Unveiled on April 19th, 1948, the fifth anniversary of the insurgency, this flagship landmark was erected in close proximity to where the first shots of the rising were fired. Eleven meters tall, the monument was designed

by Nathan Rappaport and famously constructed using Swedish labradorite that had originally been earmarked by the architect Albert Speer to form a Nazi victory arch. A relief depicts a defiant Mordechai Anielewicz standing amid men, women and children caught up in the fighting. Today it is the center point of all ceremonies connected to the battle, not to mention numerous other Jewish related events and holidays.

THE FIRST MONUMENT TO THE GHETTO UPRISING Frequently overlooked by tourists looking to chalk off as many sights as possible, the original Uprising memorial made its debut on April 16th, 1946. It’s inscription reads: “To those who fell in the unprecedented and heroic struggle for dignity and freedom for

the Jewish people, for a free Poland and for the liberation of mankind.” The memorial (close to the corner of Polin) incorporates red sandstone, a material purposefully chosen to symbolize the blood that was spilled.

THE KNIEFALL PLAQUE On December 7th, 1970, the German Chancellor Willy Brandt visited the Monument to the Ghetto where he spontaneously sank to his knees. Images of this moment flashed across the world and his impromptu act is remembered as sowing the seeds for GermanJewish reconciliation. A tablet in the North Western corner of the Ghetto park has been added and the area rechristened Skwer Willego Brandta.

POLIN Named last year as the European Museum of the Year, the success of the ultra-modern Polin museum is fully justified. When designing it the board of directors were clear that this should not become a Holocaust museum, rather a place that would fully capture the rich 1,000 year history of Jewish life in Poland. Nonetheless, the section dedicated to WWII is an immensely powerful exhibition that takes a while to completely sink in.

THE GHETTO WALL The Nazis were ruthlessly efficient in their bid to wipe out the Jewish Ghetto, however, some traces have www.warsawinsider.pl

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ANNIVERSARY THE GHETTO UPRISING

used to take Jews to their deaths, visit at night when the monument’s somber feel is even more pronounced. It was from the building opposite, on ul. Stawki 5/7, that the SS organized the final journey of many of Warsaw’s Jews. The building currently accommodates Warsaw University’s Faculty of Psychology.

THE BLUE TOWER / GREAT SYNAGOGUE Built in the 1870s, The Great Synagogue that was razed to the ground in 1943 once stood where today you’ll find the Blue Tower on Pl. Bankowy. Considered one of the architectural masterstrokes of Jewish Europe, the 3,000 capacity house of worship was dynamited as a symbolic sign to mark the end of Warsaw’s Jewry.

One of the enduring myths relating to this claims that a rabbi placed a curse on the site preventing any future building from taking root here: as if to support this outlandish tale, the tower that eventually soared up took 26 years to complete, allegedly only after another rabbi removed the hex.

survived. Enter through the barred gate at Złota 63 to find a series of signs guiding visitors through the backyards and to a remnant of the brick wall that, from 1940, once ringed the Ghetto.

ESCAPE DRAIN Just outside the Raiffeisen building on Prosta 51 is a modern monument honoring the insurgents who made a break for freedom just after the Jewish Ghetto Uprising had been crushed. Depicting several pairs of hands disappearing down a manhole, a poignant inscription to the side lists the names of those who lived to see peace, those who later died in combat and those who “remained in the canals”. Marek Edelman, who would go on to become a famed political activist, was one of the partisans that made it to freedom.

UMSCHLAGPLATZ Umschlagplatz served as the assembly point for Jews prior to their deportation to Treblinka. Initially plans were mooted to inscribe the names of all those known to have been transported to the death camp on the monument, though with that thought to be in excess of 300,000 people the idea was deemed too unrealistic.

Instead, the decision was reached to etch approximately 400 Jewish first names onto the granite walls.

Built to mimic the form of one of the cattle wagons

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JEWISH HISTORICAL INSTITUTE Snuck behind the Blue Tower on Tłomackie 3/5, the Historical Institute presents a revolving program of compelling exhibitions presented in a traditional manner (i.e. no multimedia). Forgotten by most tourists, it offers a far more private experience than that found in Polin and is all the better for it. The Nazis attempted to burn the building down in 1943 and traces of the fire can still be noted in the hallways.

GHETTO BOUNDARIES Since 2008 the boundaries of the Ghetto have been marked by a series of cement strips set into the ground noting the exact lines along which the Ghetto wall once ran. Further, 22 bi-lingual plaques have been added at the Ghetto’s various exit points the most famous of which can be found at the intersection of Chłodna and Żelazna. Here an installation by Tomasz Lec lights up at night and marks the spot where once an overhead wooden bridge linked the small Ghetto with the large.

PRÓŻNA STREET Once dubbed Warsaw’s most authentic pre-war street, several buildings on Próżna survived the Nazis destruction of the Ghetto and have recently found themselves subject to a glorious restoration. Though the haunting air of yesteryear has vanished as a result, it’s been thrilling to watch a former derelict street undergo such a dramatic resuscitation. Where once this was a chaotic ally filled with Jewish-owned hardware stories, today it’s a gentrified area sprinkled with posh offices and fashionable bistros.

PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE KEVIN DEMARIA, OPPOSITE FACEBOOK

Monument to the Heroes of the Ghetto Uprising, detail

Clockwise from left: Polin, Tel-Aviv, Karolina Cicha at Florentin, Charlotte Menora & JCC

MODERN JEWISH WARSAW It is a testament to the human spirit that, in spite of their best efforts, the Nazis failed to eradicate local Jewish life altogether. In recent times a growing number of Poles have rediscovered and embraced their Jewish roots, while the number of visitors looking to connect with Jewish Warsaw has also enjoyed a noticeable spike: combined, these two factors have led to the reemergence of a small but extremely active and dynamic community.

POLIN This award-winning, world-class Jewish museum does not just look into the past but also the future. The varied monthly events program has done much to raise awareness of Jewish life, and it’s done so in a way that has fully engaged the local population.

GREETINGS FROM JERUSALEM The artificial palm tree standing on Rondo De’Galle’a caused controversy when

it was unveiled in 2002, but has since become a city landmark that combines elements of both art and fun. Designed

by Joanna Rajkowska, it’s meant as a reminder of the void left behind by the Holocaust.

SYNAGOGUE The synagogue on Twarda 6 was the only one to escape the Nazi’s flattening of the Ghetto. Seen as the center of Warsaw’s Jewish life, it’s also home to a tiny but essential kosher store set on the building’s flank.

CHARLOTTE MENORA Although best-known for its super affluent crowd of posers and wannabes, Charlotte Menora (Pl. Grzybowski) also touts a small selection of Jewish-inspired snacks and an information point detailing the area’s Jewish heritage.

TEL AVIV Created by the glamorous Malka Kafka, this cosmopolitan hangout has replicated the ‘Tel Aviv-y’ spirit. The revamped menu has been inspired by the concept of ‘vegan

fine dining’. A must visit.

JEWISH COMMUNITY CENTER Found in the courtyard of Chmielna 9A, the JCC has been the driving force behind a slew of artistic projects and community events. The KOS cafe on the ground floor is a bustling, modern meeting point perfect for early evening chill-out time.

FLORENTIN Overlooking the palm tree installation on Rondo De Gaulle’a, Florentin presents sophisticated and modern Israeli cuisine inside a well-designed interior ripe for the long, drawn-out meals.

BEKEF Casual in its look, Bekef places a focus on Israeli-style street food with hummus and falafel being the best sellers. If you’re on a budget, swing by for the lunch deal.

FREE WALKING TOURS Meeting at 2 p.m. each day by Zygmunt’s Column, join this free English-language walking tour to learn more about Jewish Warsaw. For details,see: freewalkingtour.com

www.warsawinsider.pl

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ARCHITECTURE UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY

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Warsaw Insider | APRIL 2017

OLD SCHOOL

Character

As impressive as it is from the outside, Warsaw’s University of Technology is proof that real beauty lies within...

BY ALEX WEBBER | PHOTOS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

www.warsawinsider.pl

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ARCHITECTURE UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY

O

fficially rated as Poland’s top seat of higher education (okay, joint top alongside the University of Warsaw) the local University of Technology (formerly the Polytechnic) has a laudable reputation that extends abroad: among others, notable alumni include Henryk Magnuski (one of the figures credited with inventing the walkie talkie) and Stefan Kuryłowicz – the architect widely hailed for hauling the city into the 21st century with his groundbreaking designs (e.g. Focus Filtrowa, Centrum Królewska, Wolf Bracka, etc.).

Curiously though, perhaps the most famous graduate is actually fictional. Better known as one of the greatest super villains the world has ever seen, Ernest Stavro Blofeld earned a degree in Engineering and Radionics at the Poly during the inter-war years, before going on to become the star turn and evil mastermind in many of the James Bond books and films. And neither is he the only megalomaniac that the Poly has churned out: according to research conducted by Rzeczpospolita, around one in nine of the Presidents and CEOs at the head of Poland’s top 500 companies graduated from the University of Technology.

First established in 1826, the institute kicked off its life with 44 students spread across four departments: Chemistry, Engineering, Business and Mechanical Engineering. However, the November Insurrection (essentially a rebellion against the ruling Russians) that broke out five years later had disastrous consequences and the Tsar ordered its closure as part of his punitive measures against the vanquished Poles.

Reactivated in 1898 as the Tsar Nicholas II Warsaw Polytechnic Institute, for a while the Poly functioned in a former tobacco factory on the corner of Hoża and Marszałkowska.

This though was a temporary measure: an extraordinary sum of three and a half million roubles was collected via public donations, and Stefan Szyller and Bronisław BrochwiczRogóyski were selected as the architects entrusted with creating a permanent home for the institution.

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In many ways, they were a strange choice: between them they had no prior experience of designing an educational facility, and with a 78-day deadline to come up with a final draft for a design the duo seemed like an odd gamble to take. They sought inspiration by traveling to 11 universities in six countries, visiting cities such as Vienna, London, Milan, Paris and Strasbourg. An impressive amount of mileage was clocked up during their three-week trip, with journey time used to sketch out ideas. They were soon ready and by the late summer of 1899 (the exact date is disputed) the cornerstone of the Polytechnic was laid.

Not everything proceeded to plan. On July 13th, 1900, three workers were killed and 13 injured after they fell from the roof. Found guilty of negligence, Szyller was jailed for two weeks and ordered to pay 1,557 roubles as compensation. Undeterred by such setbacks, work continued and the Poly complex found itself opened in stages over the course of the next few years. Once again though, the Russians were to prove a problem. Although over 70% of the student body were Polish, the official language of instruction was Russian. Peeved by this, patriotic students declared a strike in 1905, only for the Tsar to react by suspending classes for the next three years.

Eventually inaugurated as a Polish university in 1915, the following decades brought exciting times. In 1920 General Hallera planned the successful defense of Warsaw against the Bolshevik Army here, though a rather less auspicious moment came later in 1937 with the introduction of segregated seating for Jewish students. During the war the Poly operated covertly, with a core group of professors recruited

Heavily influenced by the Italian Renaissance the interiors are one of the nation’s great unsung treasures”

by the Polish Home Army to conduct secret research on German V2 rockets. In all, around 3,000 students managed to continue their studies throughout the duration of the war. While the Poly sustained heavy damage during the 1944 Warsaw Uprising, it fared better than most buildings: within five days of the Red Army rolling into town, classes had resumed albeit in rather drafty conditions. By the end of 1945, all the pre-war faculties were back up and running, and three years later the Polytechnic was chosen as the site of the Unification Congress between the Polish Socialist Party and the Polish Workers’ Party.

Nowadays, the University of Technology looks better than ever. Heavily influenced by the Italian Renaissance the interiors – capped by a breathtaking glass ceiling – are one of the nation’s great unsung treasures. Open to the public, exploring the echoing cloisters is a pleasure in itself. Apocryphal it might be, but it’s said that after the Polytechnic was completed Stefan Szyller was asked if he had ever seen a more beautiful university. The architect paused for a moment and then replied with ‘no’. Looking at his work, you’d probably agree.

www.warsawinsider.pl

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OUT OF TOWN SIGHTSEEING

HEAVY METAL

If once Pruszków was best known as a 90s mafia hotbed, today it’s getting noticed for reasons that are altogether more positive... BY ALEX WEBBER

A

world first in Pruszków? Well, apparently so. Allegedly the only exhibition of its type on the planet, the Gallery of Steel Figures came to life as a result of a lull in the scrap metal trade. With steel junk piling up in pyramids out in a local scrapyard, along came artist and inventor Mariusz ‘Jose Angel’ Olejnik who said something along the lines of, “you know what, why not re-purpose all of that rubbish as art?” Produced first was a coffee table made from a V8 engine. Inspired by ‘dreams and memories’, wackier contraptions followed: characters from film and science fiction, showbiz and music.

Composed from thousands of salvaged parts, each complex work incorporates cast-off car suspensions, engines, transmissions and gearboxes. “Because every sculpture is created entirely by hand,” says Olejnik, “the creation process is incredibly laborious and timeconsuming – sometimes it’ll take a four-man team 7,000 hours to complete just one sculpture.” Produced to a scale of 1:1, the craftsmanship and attention to detail is astonishing – despite being constructed from

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rejected metal bits and bobs, the gallery’s likeness of Freddie Mercury is arguably more realistic than that found in Madame Tussauds. Michael Jackson stands nearby, fiddling with his man-bits; Batman thrusts his hips forward, ready to spring into action; further along, one excited adult – who looks like he’d be more at home behind the goal at Legia Warszawa – attempts to wrestle a sword from a Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtle.

Frequently fun, futuristic and freaky (The Simpsons look terrifying), the figures and Mad Max-style vehicles are an amazing tribute to the skills of Olejnik’s international team.

Housed inside a small-ish tented structure found in a slimy, muddy car park, the exhibition somehow comes across as being more than a mere gallery. There’s an irresistible magic here: a place of imagination and ingenuity, this is a fantasy world with an escapist twist.

Certainly, it’s not an exhibition that belongs to the normal world outside.

Gallery of Steel Figures ul. Przejazdowa 17 (Pruszków), zl. 25 (adults) / zl. 12 (discounts), galleryofsteelfigures.com

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF THE GALLERY OF STEEL FIGURES

a place of imagination and ingenuity, this is a fantasy world with an escapist twist

www.warsawinsider.pl

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REVIEWS RESTAURANTS 42 CAFES & WINE BARS 72 NIGHTLIFE 75 SHOPPING 80 FAMILY 82 HEALTH & BEAUTY 87 IN THE CITY 89

PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

ARABIAN NIGHTS

Furnished in voluptuous Middle Eastern style, the latest subsidiary of the Le Cedre empire bursts with fancy sheesha pipes, extravagant rugs and shimmery satin drapes. It’s a look that’s fun, familiar, intimate and warm. Mostly though, it’s a look that’s conducive to long chattery evenings spent over little bites of this and small plates of that. Less encyclopedic than that of its two sister ventures, Le Cedre Lounge has a slimmer menu that introduces several new tastes to fans of Lebanese cuisine: marinated octopus, spicy hummus, shrimps in filo pastry and garlicky chicken liver in pomegranate sauce. Helplessly more-ish, it’s food that’s in line with the vibey atmosphere and casual air. Above all, it’s the kind of food that expands your horizons and has you returning again and again.

Le Cedre Lounge ul. Grzybowska 5A, lecedre.pl, tel. 22 299 7299 www.warsawinsider.pl

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Taste of the East

A second look at a neighborhood legend...

T

he best restaurant in the world, wrote Giles Coren once, is the one closest to you. I can’t remember his full justification – nor if those were even his exact words – but the reasoning wasn’t far removed from the principle that ‘home is where the heart is’. Now although I don’t live on Wilcza, I’ve come to regard that part of Warsaw as something of a surrogate home: I guess ten years working there would do that. But even without that connection, it’s not hard to feel an affinity to the area. Despite the encroachment of Żabka and suchlike, it remains dominated by family-run businesses and independent retailers, a point that’s fostered a strong sense of neighborhood.

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Opened five or so years back, Sokotra has evolved into a stalwart of the street, the kind of spot whose mere presence feels welcoming and reassuring. Casting a warm, steamy glow over this corner of Wilcza, it’s a place that reveals itself as a welldesigned nook with a rough, urban edge: telegraph poles, bare bulbs and exposed lumps of concrete. Yet rather than feeling cold and sparse, these elements come together to create a vibrant area that feels bright, buzzy and high on life.

It helps, too, that the food is rather good. It says a lot for Warsaw’s developing taste buds that it can now successfully support a Yemeni restaurant, but have no doubt, it’s busy not because people are there to express empathy with the people of Yemen, but because the menu is top notch. For starters, a sharing plate is ordered featuring a roll-call of small, bitey snacks: a smoky baba ganoush; crisp chicken wings; deep fried cheese and onion bhaji. Taken on its own it’s a great introduction to Sokotra’s capabilities. For mains, the mandi – a tandoor-cooked chicken – is mild and tender and served on aromatic rice. Seen as something of a signature dish, it’s pretty much the one dish you must try to learn more about Yemeni cuisine. But, and it’s a big but, there’s more to Sokotra than just Yemeni food. Also on show are a number of Indian dishes, including an interesting Madras that’s intense, pungent, ample in size and fiery in heat. Ask the chef to pep it up a little and you’re left with a high octane meal that leaves you checking if your hair isn’t on fire. More than just good, Sokotra is the kind of essential local restaurant that every street needs. (AW) Sokotra ul. Wilcza 27, sokotra.pl

PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

REVIEWS

REVIEWS WARSAW BEER FESTIVAL The Cheat Sheet

The time has come not just for the 6th installment of the bi-annual Warsaw Beer Festival, but also the Insider’s confidential intel report on the expected proceedings...

Unfiltered Data

50,000 LITRES...

Of beer sold last time around

20,000 PEOPLE

Visited last April

700

DIFFERENT BEERS

Present this year

350

BEER TAPS

Will be keeping you watered

100

BEERS

To make their debut

60

DO

• Get a ticket in advance. Premium tickets are zł.

65 (pre-sale only) and include a bundle of perks, benefits and festival goodies.

DON’T

• Eat beforehand. Fifteen food trucks are linedup and ready for active service. Beer tastes better with something messy and calorific.

• Go early. Give yourself a chance to scope out • Assume you’ll be the odd one out. While of the layout and get a headstart on the beer testing course it fills with stereotypical beer nerds and before the crowds pile in. pissheads, the festival’s true silent victory is how it manages to engage such a mixed bag • Talk to the reps. They speak English and don’t of people. bite. You’ll be amazed at what you might learn by talking to those on the industry’s frontline.

• Worry about the bogs. The festival is held in a 21st century football stadium designed to cope • Bring your cigs. One of the stands is always with unwieldy crowds far more challenging open: theoretically to deal with any overspill, but than this. The facilities are superb. in reality to act as a giant smoking zone.

• Think you’re alone. That great, big queue • Remember you’ll be in a crowded area: wear behind you wants a bloody drink – if you want deodarant. If everyone else followed this rule, the to fire stupid questions at the staff manning the overall experience would be that extra bit better. pumps pick a quieter time.

• Travel by Uber. Whether or not discount codes will again be available to festival-goers wasn’t known at press time, but either way, an Uber is the most effective way home.

• Be boring. Organizers estimate around 100 beers will premier at the festival, and it’s likely you’ll never see any of them again. Take the chance to be bold and experiment.

• Get competitive. Forget engaging in drinking tournaments (crikey, that amounts to suicide at a beer festival), instead get stuck into the table football and pinball machines.

• Reckon on getting out easily. The surrounding streets see traffic reduced to a standstill. Uber’s the best exit strategy, though if you’re heading back to town consider hiking up to Zamek Ujazdowski first.

PLUS...

Breweries expected to be present

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When: April 6th – 8th Where: Legia Stadium (ul. Łazienkowska 3) Info: warszawskifestiwalpiwa.pl Tickets: zł. 10 (one-day pass), zł. 20 (3-day pass), zł. 65 (VIP 3-day pass)

Warsaw Insider | APRIL 2017

JUST OPENED

PASSION, INSPIRATION, INNOVATION

Main Chef: Xiang Shiyong

Ul. Pańska 85 tel. 512 671 756, 22 253 30 30 panska85.com.pl

If there is an undisputed highlight at Pańska 85 then it is the Beijing Duck: carved and served at your table, this champion bird comes with its skin lacquered and shining, ready to be wrapped inside delicious little pancakes. Exceptional in every regard, we’re certain you’ll enjoy it as much as we love serving it...

Partner News The latest marketplace news from the Warsaw Insider’s friends and advertisers…

Wine & Dine

Located away from the crassness of the Old Town and found in the heart of the more sophisticated New Town, Enoteka’s address has long been associated with culinary greatness: the legendary Bombonierka once stood here, and later Poland’s first vegan restaurant. Enoteka, the current tenant, have continued this culinary tradition through the creation of an award-winning wine bar / Italian restaurant that most recently found itself praised by food critic Maciej Nowak.

Check our new menu to learn why he was impressed!

Enoteka Rynek Nowego Miasto 13/15, enotekapolska.pl

The Jukebox, Jewkbox!

Ongoing until May 29th, this exhibition celebrates the history of ‘the Jewish musical experience’ of the 20th century and will resound to Yiddish theater songs, jazz, folk and even punk. Aside from recordings, interviews and original vinyl discs, there will also be a display of phonographs and gramophones on loan from local collectors.

Polin ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl

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Pasta La Vista Chinese-Style!

Lamian is a type of Chinese pasta that’s produced by twisting, stretching and then folding dough into threads. Dating back to 1504, this authentic dish is one of many we’re delighted to cook live or at catering events such as the Polish premier of the new Huawei P10!

Pańska 85 ul. Pańska 85, panska85.com

Cuisine: A Region’s Business Card

Held on April 4th, this conference will explore how cuisine can help regions develop tourism and will also include a tasting of produce and dishes from both Poland and abroad. The event will investigate the findings of research related to culinary heritage, and also act as a showcase for several regional manufacturers.

Grupa Uczelni Vistula ul. Stokłosy 3, sgtir.edu.pl

AU T H E N T I C P O L I S H C U I S I N E

Krakowskie Przedmieście 64, Warsaw Krakowskie Przedmieście 64 tel. +48 22 826 47 70 email: info@delicjapolska.pl www.delicjapolska.pl Reseva7ons:

Pa N rtn ew er s

The Game Changer

Madrilenians have Mercado de San Miguel; Londoners Borough Market; and New Yorkers Chelsea Market... now, Varsovians have a market and dining destination to call their own: Hala Koszyki.

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place of infinite popularity, the fully revitalized Hala Koszyki has reclaimed its position as one of Warsaw’s best-loved venues. Designed in Art Nouveau style by Warsaw’s chief architect, Juliusz Dzierżanowski, Koszyki was once known for its ornamented wrought iron gates as well as its numerous sculptures by Józef Zygmunt Otto. Manufactured at the H. Zieliński factory, some of these have survived to this day, namely the head of a bull and a mermaid.

From the very beginning Hala Koszyki, built between 1906 and 1908, has filled the role of an urban market place. Also known as ‘the Popular Market’, it was a place to do the shopping or get the latest haircut, and was frequented by everyone from elegant ladies and

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free-spirited artists to shady criminals and petty villains. No wonder then that it quickly established itself as one of the city’s chief icons. Koszyki’s fortunes have been a direct reflection of the city’s own history, and during the communist years the hall was transformed into a state-owned department store. It morphed into an independent economic entity in 1990, but by then it had lost much – if not all – of its original glitter and glory. Eventually subjected to a heavy face lift, it reopened in style in autumn 2016. The Hala Koszyki of today has preserved its historical heritage and set it against the urban fabric of modern Warsaw. Here, tradition intertwines with modernity. This much is clear by the logo, which was inspired by Koszyki’s original

neon sign dating from the 60s.

Combining culture with cuisine, Koszyki has been reopened with quality and atmosphere at the front of its philosophy. Offering true global tastes, no matter what time of day you’ll find Koszyki abuzz with activity. Much of that is found around the central bar, a place that’s already earned fame for it’s plum-flavored moonshine as well as its special custom-brewed beer. Those looking for healthier kicks are catered for by way of a booth serving extraordinary juices composed to individual whims and fancies – after, you’ll even be able to check the effects by measuring your anti-oxidant levels. Those seeking something stronger will find the city’s hottest salsa, while those with more conservative tastes can enjoy a Mediterranean lunch or authentic Indian food. But that’s just the beginning for the Hala Koszyki experience also includes masterful sushi, sausages from the Małopolska region and plum/chocolate ice cream. Further exploration will reveal the best hummus in Warsaw, the town’s freshest seafood, top quality pasta and burgers that are elevated to an art form. If it sounds delicious, then that’s because it is! The temptations of Hala Koszyki are not limited to food alone. Our

dining destination offers an array of different attractions: wine and tea tasting, historical guided walks, skincare consultancy, meetings with authors and artists, science workshops for kids and yoga classes for adults. We’re also proud of our music: outside enjoy classical sounds, while inside find a unique program comprised of over 2,000 tunes. Furthermore, pop in at the weekend to listen to live concerts organized in cooperation with the DJ and producer Stanisław Trzciński. Hala Koszyki has also become a space devoted to the promotion of art and cultural events. Modern, creative and original, Hala Koszyki crosses well beyond the commercial borders one might otherwise expect. Instead we aim to integrate, inspire and interest our visitors. Hala Koszyki has already bagged a number of prizes, the most recent of which include awards at the Property Design Awards 2017 (Best Shopping Centre Design / Interior and Best Block Shopping Centre). More than just symbolic, these awards do much to illustrate the importance people place on the exceptional arrangement of Hala Koszyki, it’s high quality design and its retained sense of tradition.

Hala Koszyki ul. Koszykowa 63, koszyki.com www.warsawinsider.pl

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restaurants KEY

NEW & NOTEWORTHY

$ zł. 30 (per main) $$ zł. 30-55 $$$ over zł. 55 New listings are in RED 2016 Best of Warsaw Award Winner BEST OF WARSAW 2016 KEY WINNERS Fine Dining Nolita Casual Dining MOD Upscale Casual Dyletanci & Rozbrat20 Modern Polish Mała Polana Smaków

WARSZAWSKI SZNYT (ul. Senatorska 2, warszawskisznyt.pl) Warsaw’s historic center is rightly glorified for many reasons – it’s restaurants, however, are not one of them. In fact, there’s probably nowhere in the city with a higher concentration of sub-par efforts. Aiming to redress the balance are Sznyt, an ambitious venue with swank interiors overlooking the Royal Castle, and a kitchen staff headhunted from blue ribbon venues such as Salto and Amaro. Set over two floors (one focused on Polish cuisine, the other on ‘international’), the pride of the house is afforded to the wood-fired grill.

WARSZAWSKI SEN BY MATEUSZ GESSLER (ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki), mateuszgessler.com.pl) A quite stunning restaurant dominated by dark geometric patterns and the installations and ideas of guerilla artist Tomasz Górnicki. Once you’ve caught your breath and snapped off a few pics for your Instagram, settle in for a menu that gives Polish ingredients a highly contemporary treatment. If you thought Hala Koszyki was buzzing, then this edgy space is perhaps its biggest buzz of all.

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african american balkan & russian british burgers & street food chinese cuban fine dining french georgian greek & turkish indian indonesian international italian japanese & sushi jewish korean latin & spanish mexican middle eastern polish seafood specialty food shops steak houses thai vegan & wholefood vietnamese

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listings / restaurants african Café Baobab (H4) ul. Francuska 31, tel. 22 617 4057, cafebaobab.pl The work of former basketball player Aziz Seck, Baobab brings the tastes of Senegal to Saska Kępa. The mafe yap – beef stewed in peanut sauce – is as interesting as it sounds, and best enjoyed during their bi-monthly Saturday night concerts. $

american Brooklyn Restaurant & Bar (C4) Al. Jana Pawła II 18 (Rondo ONZ), tel. 22 114 3434, brooklynbw.eu Gone are the fancy pants culinary creations once found in the basement, ousted in favor of a menu of pimped-up soul and street food, salads and steaks. This means fresh tacos not to mention the best-selling ‘Mito’s Beef Ribs’.

The ground floor burger bar is more prosaic, offering a standard line-up of burgers and wings. $$

Champions Sports Bar (D5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel.

22 630 5119, champions.pl While the concept and style look dated, there’s no faulting the attention to detail – with TVs positioned all over the place you won’t miss a kick. The heavy décor brings to mind the trans-Atlantic sports bars of the 90s, with glinting trophies, whirring machines, clacking pool tables and a cacophony of commentaries. Hell, there’s even a boxing ring. But you can’t criticize their consistency: the food is always on-point, the staff are pro, while the generous floor plan makes it suitable for unwieldy groups of large and loud lads. $$ Hard Rock Café (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, hardrockcafe.pl Instantly recognizable by the giant neon guitar outside, Hard Rock has a pierced staff of skater boys and rock girls and a menu that is, if nothing else, completely reliable. Peruse rock’n’roll swag that includes Joplin’s blouse, Prince’s guitar and Shakira’s pants. $$

balkan Ba Adriatico (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 50/52, ba-adriatico.pl As a starter, then the grilled peppers stuffed with creamy, regional cheese are irresistible. But then so too the octopus salad. Mains are a victory of simplicity, with dishes like skewered minced beef served with a bitey sauce and a soft, pillowy Lepinja bread. Yet ignore Thursday seafood night at your peril. Croatian-run, this neighborhood spot has an unassuming air that belies the general quality. $$ Banja Luka (E8) ul. Szkolna 2/4, tel. 22 828 1060, banjaluka. pl Lots of clunky timber and imported ceramics set the scene at this eatery, a Balkan stalwart that’s known for its economical pricing structure and bulky portions. Grilled meats are prominent and the food largely reliable. $$ Yugo (B4) ul. Sienna 83 (enter from Żelazna), tel. 694

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listings / restaurants 109 379 You feel alive just being here: big on Colgate white colors, vintage tourist agency posters and bright stickers, Yugo is just about the cheeriest eatery you’ll come across on a dour Warsaw day. Presenting the food of the former Yugoslavia, this Balkan bolt hole specializes in meaty dishes served in traditional bread. $

british Created by Jarosław Voitiuk, our menu is influenced by seasonal produce and it is mostly based on fresh fish and seafood delivered daily from Spain. Find a classic cuisine with a modern twist and a beautiful game of colours and form matched with award-winning wines and unique cocktails

Ę Rybę (E4) Al. Jana Pawła II 18, erybe.pl A couple of places have tried to emulate the taste of the British seaside, but this is the de facto codfather. Here’s a spot where the chips are golden, the fish fresh and the batter crisp and light. Now also serving British breakfast, albeit at a time when most normal people will have already eaten. $$

burgers & street food Barn Burger (D4) ul. Złota 9. tel. 512 157 567, barnburger. pl Retaining a loyal crowd ever since their 2012 entry on the burger circuit, Barn Burger offer a loud and lively atmosphere and much celebrated burgers with goofy names like Heart Attack and Muppet. The list by the door notes the results of their Americanstyle eating competitions / greed-fests. $ Beef’N’Roll (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel. 531 707 070, beefnroll.pl If the wheels have fallen off the burger craze then no-one told Beef’N’Roll.

Originating as a food truck, their success has been such that a fixed venue was required.

Everything about the food and drink suggests quality is the main consideration. $ Burger Bar ul. Puławska 974/80 (enter from Olkuska) & ul. Krucza 41/43, burgerbar.waw.pl Warsaw has come full-circle: years after burgers briefly starred as the national food, it’s the original burger joint that still bosses the field. $

ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 516 995 690, www.zmianaklimatu.pl

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Pogromcy Meatów (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, tel. 505 703 508 Yearn no more for the elusive flavor of the backyard BBQ. Specializing in grilled meat, find exactly just that loaded into artisan buns

alongside locally grown greens. The sense of homespun quality makes this the kind of comfort food that Warsaw has been missing for years. $ SAS Duck & Chicken (D5) ul. Piękna 54, fb.com/sasduckandchicken Although SAS Duck & Chicken feels reminiscent of the ‘hipster pop-up’ we first saw three or four years back, they’ve taken a tried and tested format and hit refresh. A small and simple space it might be, but this kitchen crew have won hearts and minds with an understandable menu that presents comfort food at its glorious best: BBQ hot wings, duck confit burgers, chicken skewers and turkey in a big, buttery brioche. These are simple pleasures refined for a picky palette. $ Warburger (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1, warburger.pl While Warsaw has lost its appetite for burgers, you wouldn’t necessarily tell by popping in WarBurger. Set inside a diminutive cabin, join the scrum for jazzed-up burgers that use slow-food ingredients. If not the best, they’re most certainly up there. $

chinese Pańska 85 (B4) ul. Pańska 85, panska85.com Ample in size, the interiors speak of money well spent. This is especially true because despite the luxury trimmings Pańska looks good without ever losing its dignity. With their kitchen staff headhunted from across China, the food sets a standard that has yet to be seen in any Chinese restaurant in Warsaw: there’s delicate salmon rolls wrapped in mango; dim sum that are pouches of pure goodness; and Sichuanstyle pork that’s a blaze of sizzle and spice. The Beijing Duck, carved and served table-side, is the highlight.

Pełną Parą (B4) ul. Sienna 76, pelnapara.pl The Thai soup with lemongrass and chicken is fragrant, deep and nourishing, but it’s the Chinese dim sum they’re famous for mind, with eight variations thereof. Find yourself knocked sideways by these beautiful pouches of meaty goodness: the duck,

listings / restaurants orange and Sichuan pepper is a particular favorite. Impossible to get tired of, these are of a standard that bring to mind London’s Chinatown. $ Pełną Parą na Nowo (D6) ul. Nowowiejska 10, pelnapara.pl A good gauge of Pełną Parą’s swoon-worthy offerings is the Dim Sum Mix: find a duo of Chinese dumplings (pork/shitake & bamboo/shrimp) plus a spicy kimchi-style cucumber salad topped off with some fried wontons and spring rolls. Appetites, however, may suffer if you sit too close to the manager, a person who sees nothing wrong with barking orders at the staff in the manner of a bulldog. $ Regina Bar (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, fb.com/Reginabar Stepping past a pair of flowing red drapes at the entrance, guests are ushered in to discover an eclectic world that marries the tastes of New York’s Little Italy to Chinatown next door. This is done excellently with the menu presenting the very essence of ethnic comfort food: General Tso’s chicken, Cantonese roast duck and light, leopard-spotted pizzas. Brought to you by the makers of MOD, it’s therefore natural that the original style extends to kooky interiors tinged with a trace of retro: a tall mirrored wall and the kind of sparkling chandelier last seen in Boogie Nights. $$

cuban El Caribe ul. Mickiewicza 9, tel. 22 400 0994, el-caribe.pl Start with a round of daiquiris before ordering frijoles negroes (black beans). But everyone agrees, it’s the flan that gets you doing the cha cha. With the cooking left to a Cuban exile, this bubbly spot is worth the trip north to Żoliborz. $$

fine dining Amber Room at the Sobański Palace (E6) Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, amberroom.pl The Amber Room is, indeed, a bit of a treasure. You know all the chefs we bang on about in this mag? Bottom line, the good ones came through via this kitchen.

But this is more than a training ground for future stars, it’s a place that remains on the cutting edge in spite of its seemingly straight look. Positioned inside a majestic villa, the food is pure contemporary Poland, and well

deserving of its Michelin nod. For that, thank chef Robert Skubisz. $$$ Atelier Amaro (E6) ul. Agrykola 1, tel. 22 628 5747, atelieramaro. pl The recipient of Poland’s first Michelin star, Atelier promotes pedigree Polish produce enhanced by modern techniques, with courses interspersed by occasionally bizarre interludes (leaves, flowers, twigs, etc). It’s an extraordinary dining experience, and one which confirms the growing cult of Wojciech Amaro. In the hours you’re here the world stops and you leave feeling like James Bond. Reservations are mandatory, but this is a restaurant that tops the foodie bucket list. $$$

Belvedere Łazienki Królewskie ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. 22 558 6701, belvedere. com.pl Set in a spectacular glass orangery in the heart of Łazienki Park, Belvedere is an address that impresses – where else will you find peacocks poking their chests out right outside the window? There are a la carte options, but to see how the scope of chef Marcin Przybysz’s talents check the tasting menu (zł. 260-290). This is Polish cuisine at its innovative peak. $$$ La Rotisserie (C1) ul. Kościelna 12 (Le Régina Hotel), tel.

22 531 6070, leregina.com It began with duck foie gras and finished with a caramel Valrhona chocolate parfait. In between came a scallop salad with plums, almonds and tarragon tempura; a grilled tuna; and a seared Barbary duck with blackberry ginger sauce and the kind of parsnips you never knew existed. The Insider’s visit at the end of 2016 was nothing if not a reassertion of chef Paweł Oszczyk’s ample skill. Enjoy one of Warsaw’s top dining experiences inside a gloriously seductive dining room that’s been recently updated. $$$ L’enfant Terrible (D8) ul. Sandomierska 13 (enter from Rejtana), tel. 22 119 5705, eterrible.pl Looking like he’s just swaggered in from a rock concert, the unconventional style of Michał Bryś goes beyond surface detail alone. Promising maximum excitement, his imaginative menu isn’t short on daring twists and rollercoaster highs. Maverick in every sense of the word, this is a chef that pushes boundaries in a www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / restaurants way few others would dare. Though the menu changes often, keep an eye on recurring classics such as ‘tomatoes, tomatoes, tomatoes’, a kickass course that presents the humble tomato in about ten different forms!

More informal than the other top bracket restaurants, the brainwashed loyalty of Enfant’s fans says much for it. $$$ N31 (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 31, n31restaurant.pl One of the original pioneers of modern Polish cooking returns with renewed vigor. That’s Robert Sowa, and his N31 restaurant has already made a massive splash with an upmarket, showbizzy crowd enjoying complex cooking amid a luxurious interior of pristine linen and glinting tableware. $$$

Nolita (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 292 0424, nolita. pl The deluxe dining scene is filling out in Warsaw, and there’s now a few restaurants that can present an equitable claim for the No. 1 spot. However, it’s Nolita that perch at the top, with a menu that sees largely classical recipes through a sharp, modern prism – chef Jacek Grochowina has created a place that’s coherent and understandable without sacrificing values of innovation. Looking chic and high end, the tastes and sensations in this restaurant are thrilling: diners are left speechless by

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the tuna tartar, while the aged beef fillet is BEST WAWA an Insider mainstay. $$$ 2016 “Fine Dining” Platter by Karol Okrasa (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (Hotel InterContinental Warsaw), warsaw.intercontinental.com It’s a fact that Okrasa’s appearances in the kitchen are fleeting and rare, but that’s done nothing to hurt this restaurant’s prestige. Head chef Łukasz Pielak has proved to be a lethal assassin, executing the ideas of his mentor with accuracy and passion. The cooking is detailed, balanced and elegant, with the highlight of our visit being deer in plum sauce. A thing of imperial, velvety richness it’s a dish that turns up the volume on a memorable experience. $$$

Salto (D5) ul. Wilcza 73 (enter from Emilii Plater), tel.

22 584 8771, saltorestauracja.pl Fine dining gets a South American makeover thanks to Martin Gimenez Castro, an Argentinean who has emerged as one of the most influential chefs in Poland. While some critics grumble that Warsaw’s top end scene has flat-lined, Salto push the envelope in terms of breaking boundaries and probing new ground. Light, fresh and full of zing, the ceviche is a must, as is a delve around the Sunday steak menu.

Desserts, meanwhile, are among the most

inventive in town: a brilliant demonstration of Castro’s passion and personality, order the ‘Childhood / Irresponsible / Fantasy / Fun’ and you’ll understand what we mean. $$$ Senses (C2) ul. Bielańska 12, tel. 22 331 9697, sensesrestaurant.pl A spectacular experience from start to finish: begin by walking through a flame-lit tunnel, and then conclude the night with an edible cigar: a grand tobacco flavored pastry infused with whisky and cinnamon. In between our night includes beetroot bread with a teat pipette of apple essence; a beef rib that’s a big blast of smoke and crunch; and a shellfish goulash that’s rich and rough and rolling in flavor. Perfectly paced, expertly portioned and bristling with invention, their newly acquired Michelin star makes bookings recommended. $$$ Signature (D5) ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 55 38755, signaturerestaurant.pl You feel a millionaire just being here: we’ve heard the interiors described as a ‘Monegasque state of mind’, and that’s not a bad way to surmise a décor that’s all about friezes and reliefs dated from the time this was the Soviet Embassy, lavish 1950s Oswald chairs, lighting by Serge Mouille and original Marilyn photos shot by the acclaimed Milton Greene. Food-wise the restaurant makes a massive splash with a menu that’s clever, creative and pretty. Count on Signature’s seasonally changing desserts providing a happy ending. $$

listings / restaurants Tamka 43 (E3) ul. Tamka 43, tel. 22 441 6234, tamka.43.pl Ground floor: upmarket cafe serving Chopin fans. Upstairs: a fine dining restaurant in which the seasonal menu sets the natural flavors of Poland against the culinary know-how of tomorrow. It’s easy to drop serious money here, but you’ll still feel it’s worthwhile. $$$

topped tables that favor form over function.

But there’s a reasoning behind this which soon becomes apparent. No Comment is all about intimacy, about bending over platters for surreptitious slurps of New Zealand oysters. It’s about decadence, about clinking glasses and toasting the moment. Most of all, it’s about authentic French style. $$

french

georgian

Bistro la Cocotte (D6) ul. Mokotowska 12, tel. 664 906 000 With access through a shadowy courtyard, the sensation you’re stepping inside a little secret is a pleasure in itself. Presenting itself in a riot of red and white gingham Cocotte feels warm and intimate, a factor aided by a small open kitchen and the atmosphere of home. The menu, chalked up on the blackboard, is a flexible affair that makes use of the ingredients at hand, and is divided into a smattering of light bites, desserts and plat du jour.

Chinkali (D4) ul. Zgoda 3 Signposted by a Georgianlanguage shingle, there’s a real sense of pleasure about this place. More modern than your typical folksy ethnic outpost, Chinkali’s draw is indeed its chinkali: dough purses packed with meaty broth. There’s a genuine homemade quality to these slurpy bundles of joy, meaning that while they’re authentic, consistency can vary. And don’t miss out on the red bean chachapuri washed down with a mouthwash-colored tarragon lemonade. $

L’Arc (E8) ul. Puławska 16, tel. 519 000 050, larc.pl Looking elegant with its black/white floors and subtle decorations bills at L’Arc can become big number affairs – especially if you hanker for seafood. No-one complains, however. Pick from numerous types of oysters, or delve into the fish tank for the lobster of your choosing. The catchment area extends beyond the borders of Mokotów, not just because of their ‘fresh from France’ seafood, but because of classic dishes such as Mulard duck and Burgundy snails. $$

Klukovka (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 45A, klukovka.pl Jana Pawła’s pavilions are the unlikely location of this culinary beacon: amid the aggressive waft of its kebab shop neighbors, Klukova presents itself as a warming winter mouse hole filled with banter, babble and rich aromas. Specializing in the foods of ‘the east’, this means a menu inspired by the tastes of Georgia, Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan,

and more. The mutton manty dumplings are great, and best appreciated with a bottle of unfiltered Lithuanian beer. That said, it’s never a surprise to find diners ordering up bottles of Georgian vodka before proceeding to share their way through the menu. $ Rusiko (E5) Al. Ujazdowskie 22, tel. 22 629 0628, rusiko. pl Explaining Georgian cuisine isn’t all that hard. To the uninitiated, it’s representative of the heart, spirit and passion of its people, a cuisine the values the concept of the feast: wine, laughter and song find themselves elevated to roles of primary importance. A food of life, spice and whole-hearted tastes, consider Rusiko as the best ambassador there is for this surprisingly diverse kitchen.

Live music lends the weekends a goodhumored twist. Note: closed Monday. $$

greek & turkish Santorini ul. Egipska 7, tel. 22 672 0525, kregliccy.pl/ santorini/ Santorini looks scuffed and tired but there’s a bonhomie present that instantly engages. The kitchen attaches no value to things like presentation, preferring instead to simply treat diners to piles of grilled and skewered food that consistently tastes right – and the milfei dessert is magic. $$ Sofra (C6) ul. Wilcza 71, tel. 731 847 731 A highly

La Cocotte Saska (H4) ul. Walecznych 68A Already well regarded on account of a highly successful venture just off Pl. Zbawiciela, La Cocotte have spread their wings to set up shop in scenic Saska. A typical French-style bistro / wine bar, the offer includes a brief but largely brilliant menu whose main strength is its mussels. The wine list is substantial and French-focused and enjoyed by a smart, upmarket audience. $$ No Comment (F4) Al. 3 Maja 16/18A, fb.com/nocommentwarszawa Set inside one of those momentous towers that support Most Poniatowskiego, you don’t feel like you’re in a restaurant, you’ll feel like you’re in a film – something weird by Aronofsky or Lynch.

Seating is small and tight, set around glass-

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listings / restaurants respected Turkish eatery with a wondrous beef mussaka and a wholly admirable lineup of other ethnic dishes: the lamb shashlik has never failed us. Pleasingly informal, this neighborhood redoubt feels cheerfully unforced, and it becomes an easy place to hang around in. $

rarely pokes above average. For a cuisine that prides itself on rich, intense tastes, Bombaj gets remembered for bland, oily dishes that only sometimes get finished. Yet business remains brisk, thanks in part to a combination of location and general culinary ignorance. $$

Taverna Patris (G4) ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 407, tel 22 357 11 11, tawernapatris.pl This Greek restaurant is not about sophistication and finesse, it’s about truth and taste. Likewise, the interiors have no airs and graces: there’s a rough and ready style that’s apt for noisy celebrations and familial occasions. Tawerna Patris is not about shallow details or surface appearances. Instead, it’s a place of depth, a place of integrity, a place of joy. $$

Chmielarnia (B4) ul. Twarda 42 (basement level), tel. 725 010 271, chmielarnia.waw.pl Find some of the world’s greatest beers (see Nightlife) served in a murky, muggy basement. The Indian food that accompanies it is generally successful without being memorable – the beer snack menu though is great, with big points going to the spicy, chili ribs. Now also boasts a more salubrious location on Marszałkowska 10/16. $

indian

Curry House ul. Żeromskiego 81 & ul. Hoża 54, curryhouse.pl Ask for something extra hot in Curry House and by Vishnu that’s what you’ll get.

Yet at Curry House there is more to sing about than just Poland’s highest voltage vindaloo.

While neither of their two locations (Bielany & city center) look too grand (the Bielany branch is a glorified hut), the curries are rich and sumptuous and in a league of their own.

If in doubt, the chicken tikka masala is a fail-safe request. $$

Bollywood Lounge (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, tel. 22 827 0283, bollywoodlounge.pl Known for their raucous dusk-till-dawn parties, there is another less hedonistic roll filled by Bollywood: that of a restaurant. The menu is an uncomplicated, classic affair that’s an ideal primer for the party ahead. $$ Bombaj Masala (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 606 688 777, bombajmasala.pl One of the best looking Indian restaurants in Warsaw, but the food

House of Curry ul. Patriotów 11 A, house-of-curry.pl Heat seekers can ‘enjoy’ a genuine death-by-fire

experience at House of Curry, though far milder curries are available for more sensitive palettes – either way, the experience is fantastic, and good news for those stuck out in the depths of Józefów. $$ Karma (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 501 400 386, restauracjakarma.pl Fresh, contemporary interiors impart a chic, classy look that’s leagues ahead of Warsaw’s other Indian restaurants. The food is impressive, with fresh ingredients and an expansive menu: the vindaloo is a special standout, with big, punchy flavors that leave you tingling long after you leave. $$ Maharaja ul. Grzybowska 61 (Platinum Towers), maharaja.waw.pl That’s progress for you: where once you’d have found Maharaja on the top floor of a decaying socialist block, today you’ll find it on the ground floor of one of Warsaw’s most prestigious residential projects. It’s shrunk in size and it looks more like one of the faceless restaurant units found in an out-of-town shopping centre, but the tastes are as true as ever. Though the menu feels far more limited than much of the Indian competition, those dishes that have made the cut are largely exceptional: that includes a creamy butter chicken that can’t be bettered. $$ Mandala ul. Emilii Plater 9/11 & ul. Etiudy Rewolu-

The Lounge is Open Le Cedre Lounge Grzybowska 5A Tel 22 299 7299

Le Cedre 61

(opposite the zoo) Al. Solidarności 61, Praga Tel 22 670 1166

Le Cedre 84

(opposite the court) Al. Solidarności 84 Tel 22 618 8999

www.lecedre.pl www.lecedre.pl

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listings / restaurants cyjnej 9, tel. 22 428 44 54, mandalaklub. com or indiaexpress.pl Celebrating their 10th birthday this year, Mandala is well on its way to becoming a Warsaw institution. But rather than resting on their laurels, the management are using this landmark anniversary as an opportunity to rejig the menu and update their offer. Using the freshest ingredients, Mandala is characterized by its blitzing big spices and a vindaloo capable of giving the sweat glands a work out. For something calmer, the creamy mutton methi malai is a masterpiece. $$ Mr. India Al. KEN 47, tel. 22 213 0689, mrindia.pl Split on two levels the design is contemporary if a little characterless: leather banquettes that leave a sweaty bum print and wood paneling.

No problem though, if it looks bland then the food isn’t. That means an incredible butter chicken that’s deep and immensely satisfying. Then there’s the vindaloo, an experience that leaves some close to spontaneous combustion. Undoubtedly one of the best regarded Indian restaurants in this town. $$ Namaste India (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 15, tel. 22 357 0939, namasteindia.pl Responsible for first bringing quality, budget Indian food to Warsaw, Namaste have grown from humble beginnings (three tables and cooking done in a cupboard-sized space behind a curtain) to evolve into a bona fide two-floored restaurant. But expansion has come at the cost of quality – our last trip (March 2017) promises to be the final. $$ Om (B4) ul. Sienna 86, omrestauracja.pl Indian restaurants are popping up like toast, which isn’t a problem for most ex-pats. Catering to the more budget end of the market, Om’s Nepalese chefs know their way around the kitchen. The chicken tikka masala is satisfying if nothing memorable, but the madras is something else: filled with sharp, punchy tastes that leave a lasting impression. While you get the idea it’ll never challenge the more established Indian restaurants in Warsaw, it’s the kind of place you’d be very happy to live next door to. $ Rani Al. KEN 48/10, tel. 729 247 400, rani. com.pl Mere steps from Metro Natolin, this restaurant’s catchment area goes beyond just Ursynów. Owner Samir is a self-confessed

foodie, and his vision includes a contemporary Indian menu that features pan-seared cod with turmeric, tomato salsa and mint chutney – wonderful. Rani will also please the traditionalists, with everything from creamy kormas to vindaloo’s that leave your ears blowing smoke rings. $$ Tandoor (D7) ul. Marszałkowska 21/25, tel. 22825 2375, tandoor.com.pl After nearly 20 years at the helm, owner Charanjit Walia has sold up and moved on, leaving a spiritual hole in his life-defining work. His parting shot has been a re-haul which has seen the interior modernized and brightened. Has the food suffered? Not a jot. The chicken tikka butter masala is as formidable as ever. It’s no longer the self-styled, ‘the best Indian restaurant in Poland’, but it’s deservedly retained a loyal core of customers. $$

indonesian Warung Jakarta (D6) ul. Piękna 28/34 The menu has a street foodie edge and is divided into steps wherein diners first pick out their choice of protein, then their rice, before concluding with any vegetables add-ons (e.g. pak choy, green beans or water spinach). While most Warsaw restaurants have a special lunch scheme going on, Warung’s is one that actually warrants a further look: find truly great off-menu dishes that are highly accessible to all levels of income. $

Finest Authentic Indian Cuisine in Locations Around Warsaw

WWW.HOUSE-OF-CURRY.PL

PATRIOTÓW 11A, FALENICA 512 533 415

WWW.CURRY-HOUSE.PL

italian Ave Pizza (E3) ul. Topiel 12, tel. 22 828 8507, avepizza. pl The argument over who serves Warsaw’s best pizza goes right to the wire, but there’s no doubting that Ave Pizza are up there on the leaderboard. Set across a sparse, metropolitan area, this fashionable L-shaped joint comes endorsed by the capital’s notoriously picky Italian community. Order the pillowy calzone and you’ll soon learn why. $ The Blueberry’s (D6) Pl. Zbawiciela, fb.com/theblueberrys Strange times for Pl. Zbawiciela: it’s not long back people were burning down the rainbow installation (RIP!), calling it Pl. Hipsterka and writing about it in publications such as The New York Times. Though it might

HOŻA 54

536 443 771

ŻEROMSKIEGO 81 508 870 774

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listings / restaurants have stagnated a little since that heyday hopes are again high for the future, and The Blueberry’s is one reason. Specializing in the food of Piedmont, find an onus placed on authentic, home-style tastes. $$ Delizia (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 22 622 6665, delizia. com.pl The sheer proliferation of Italian restaurants lends an element of chance to dining out: cut through the noise by visiting Delizia, a place that’s consistently topped polls ever since it launched in 2010.

Lorenzo’s cooking is upscale Italian with a

contemporary twist, and comes presented

by Luca, an ebullient ball of energy who patrols the floor with sparkling good humor.

In the hands of these two an unforgettable night comes guaranteed. Top quality imported products, a dimly-lit romantic atmosphere, a tasteful design and faultless food: no wonder so many rate this as their favorite Italian. $$

be opened by the keys that hang on the tree outside. Striking a lavender look, the magic of this restaurant is affirmed by its wonderful pasta and intimate style. $$

Dziurka od Klucza (E3) ul. Radna 13, tel. 500 150 494 An inviting Italian restaurant in which curious doors sit embedded into the walls, as if waiting to

Enoteka (C1) Rynek Nowego Miasta 13/15, enotekapolska.pl This L-shaped space feels completely correct: tall ceilings, big windows, marble floors and an overwhelming sense of light and sun. The mood is good. Food matches the serious wine list and includes a rich topinmabur soup, creamy Agnolloti pasta and a hearty steak. These are not attempts at a kitchen revolution, rather a concentrated focus on a menu that makes sense. $$ Focaccia (D2) ul. Senatorska 13/15, tel. 22 829 6969, focaccia.pl The Insider’s visit went something like this: wrist-thick octopus with an arc of yellow mousse, conversation stopping beef tenderloin alongside a glistening pool of madeira sauce and then an orange ice cream with caramel and ginger that soon merged into a big gooey brew of chocolatey mess.

The only surprise is there’s no Italian in the kitchen – it appears they don’t need one.

This is seriously talented cooking inside an interior that fresh and light and reflective of the food. $$ Mąka i Woda (D4) ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 91 87 Purists applaud an approach that uses a custommade oven from Naples and imported ingredients such as 00 Caputo flour and DOP certified San Marzano tomatoes.

Scrupulously authentic, it’s no wonder that it’s packed to the gunnels every night of the week – even their Facebook page warns of 20-minute waiting times for a table alone.

Learning this, some storm off in a huff – they need their heads checked, for this is Warsaw’s best pizza. $ Sexy Duck Pl. Konstytucji 3, tel. 22 400 3737 Marketing themselves as a ‘craft Italian kitchen’, Sexy Duck make a song and dance about artisan this and that while never justifying their own hyperbole. Were they not so keen to tell you otherwise, you’d mistake the food as being something from a mid-market high street

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listings / restaurants chain enterprise. But if their pizza never goes beyond ordinary, that’s done nothing to keep trade from being brisk. Inside interiors filled with aged, raw materials, find a new generation of diners making the most of the low, low prices. $

the good mood is further enhanced by a highly credible menu that scores well on the Italian classics. $$

Si (C3) ul. Marszałkowska 115 From the makers of Secado comes a new downtown venture: Si, a fun Italian stop with homemade pasta, an array of pizza and a hefty choice of cocktails.

Geared towards good times, a list of rotating daily offers has done a fair job of drumming up trade. $$

Aioli (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 5, aioliinspiredbymini.pl Once a gritty Stalinist leftover, Konstytucji has come a long way fast. A recent rush of bars and restaurants have aided the reintrocution of life to this concrete tundra, the most prominent of which being Aioli. Some might accuse it of being formulaic, but it’s clearly a formula that works: young and energetic, there’s a buzz here lasts long into the night.

Food-wise, it’s a steady choice based around burgers, pizzas and other things that their age bracket appreciates. $$

Trattoria Murano (B1) ul. Pokorna 2, tel. 516 754 300, trattoriamurano.pl Boosted by a number of new real estate projects, Muranów is in the midst of an unlikely renaissance. A direct knock-on has been the birth of numerous restaurants, though few can compete with Trattoria Murano. Looking dapper with its zigzagging brick patterns and circular lights,

international

Aioli (D3) ul. Świętokrzyska 18, tel. 22 290 102, aioli-cantine.com This runaway hit has taken Warsaw by storm. It’s a jaunty space

with hams hanging from hooks and long communal tables that thrive with life. Aioli’s breakfasts, sandwiches, pastas and pizzas are a lesson in clean, simple pleasure: nothing out of the world, just consistently good. This and the liberal prices mean there’s no shortage of people passing in and out the doors. $$ Ale Wino (F5) ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 628 3830, alewino.pl Dip through an archway to discover Ale Wino, a beautiful wine bar whose menu has been well tailored to the season.

Tweaked for the season is the pork belly, a Złotnicka pig adorned with apple sugar snap peas and celery mousse – gorgeous. As for the wine, put your faith in the sommelier, Oliver.

Bazar Kocha (D6) ul. Mokotowska 33, bazarkocha.pl Designed to evoke the spirit of a farmers’ market, the woodsy interior is filled with stall-style units neatly stacked with jars and pots. Yet these

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listings / restaurants are not decorative decoys, but part of a thoughtful grocery offer aimed at showcasing Kocha’s own-made produce. Above all though, this is a restaurant whose menu is strongly influenced by concepts of ‘terroir’.

The giant leg of lamb falls off the bone and is a dish to recommend and remember for several months to come. $$

The classic cooking has French and Polish accents and has so far won glowing reviews.

That’s specifically true of the mains: high caliber offerings such as beef fillet (zł.

68) with a sensual shallot sauce, mashed potatoes and crunchy onion crisps. Largely perfect, it’s a dish that feels completely right for the season. $$

Augmenting the warm, busy interiors are a thoughtful selection of craft beers and a concise menu that varies from month-to-month.

The apparent simplicity of the food is illusory and belies the kitchen’s knack for spotting interesting combinations such as goose with pumpkin puree, cranberry / red wine jam and chili caramelized beetroot. $$

Bez Tytułu (D5) ul. Poznańska 16, beztytulu.com Classy yet discreet, the interiors set art and photography against rehabilitated brickwork while pendant bulbs cast a soft light downwards.

Bibenda (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 10, tel. 502 770 303, bibenda.pl The menu declares Bibenda to be ‘a celebration of food, drink and togetherness’, and that’s precisely what it is.

Brasserie Warszawska (E5) ul. Górnośląska 24, tel. 22 628 9423, brasseriewarszawska.pl Looking for classic cuisine with no daft flights of fancy? Here you have it.

At a time when everyone wants to be Ferran Adrià, Brasserie has both a menu and interior that you can understand: pan-fried foie gras; elegant beef Rossini; and sinful apple tarte tatin, all served inside posh interiors of zinc-plated mirrors and chessboard floors.

Their Michelin Bib Gourmand is a source of pride, but it’s the number of repeat clients that are the ultimate paean to the skills of chef Mateusz Wichrowski. $$$ Bubbles (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 512 540 913, bubbles.com.pl Occupying a small, square room, it’s intimate and relaxed: a place busy with blackboards and bottles, crates and clutter. It radiates warmth and honesty. The food is exquisite, and includes big, meaty snails farmed in Mazury, and their signature dish: Swiss-style raclette. Presented on a wooden chopping board, this cheese dish is classic melty goodness, and served alongside a pile of potatoes, onions marinated with caramel and candied pumpkin. Considering the place doubles as a champagne bar the prices are remarkably moderate. $$

A PLACE IN WHICH WINE PLAYS THE FIRST CHORD IN HARMONY WITH WHAT APPEARS ON THE PLATE…

WE WELCOME YOU

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Bułkę przez Bibułkę ul. Zgoda 3 & ul. Puławska 24, bulkeprzezbibulke.pl When Bułkę przez Bibułkę was opened the idea was simple – to create a boutique version of Subway: a high quality sandwich shop people would value. But after they started serving breakfast, the whole thing snowballed into a more bistro-style offer. Now there’s a second venue on Zgoda, it’s not just the quality that’s contributed to the success, but the atmosphere as well. $$ Casablanca Biały Kamień ul. Żaryna 2B, casablancawaw.com.pl From the same team behind Na Lato comes Casablanca, a versatile venue that muddies the lines between café, restaurant, wine bar and hangout. Equally comfortable in each of these roles, it’s a place that feels fresh and

listings / restaurants Original Indian Cuisine

cosmopolitan, not to mention completely in tune with the swank, glass surrounds. More to the point, it’s given wings to a part of Mokotów that before felt quite sterile. $$ Dekant Wine Bar (F5) ul. Zajęcza 15, dekant.com.pl Not just a contender for Warsaw’s best new wine bar, but also Warsaw’s best new restaurant! The tuna tartar comes with the added ka-boom of a nose clearing wasabi, while the filet mignon (a snip at zł. 79) is simply astonishing.

The surprise are the ash-cooked potatoes, beautiful things with a char that wows. The desserts are few in number but equally outstanding: we fell in love with a passion fruit semi-freddo with strawberries marinated in Grand Marnier. $$ Der Elefant (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, tel. 22 890 0010, derelefant. com This leviathan restaurant unravels in a maze of wrought iron and monochrome tiles – beautiful to look at (it was created by Oscar winning set designer Allan Starski), it’s caused a stir for more than just this alone.

Where once the menu looked like it was devised by throwing darts at a cookbook, the focus has now been narrowed. While some of the dishes are strictly middling, the filet mignon (zł. 69) is one of the best meat deals in town in terms of quality / price / consistency. $$ Dom ul. Mierosławskiego 12, tel. 509 165 712 Here’s the very epitome of casual dining: set on the ground floor of a suburban house, the warm corners and garden views give Dom a real sense of homey charm. In line with all that is a menu that celebrates simple, honest cooking. Everyone who visits ends up loving the place. $$

club

Dyletanci (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44A, dyletanci.pl Filled with crisp, modern citizens that radiate confidence, Dyletanci introduces itself as a bistro set with green banquettes and Tom Dixon lamps.

The wine selection is among the best in the nation, while the cooking has been left to Rafał Hreczaniuk, a workaholic chef with outrageous talent. His zander fillet thrills BEST WAWA 2016 with every bite. $$ “Upscale Casual” Grand Kredens (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 111, tel. 22 629 8008, kredens.com.pl This mighty veteran con-

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tinues to draw a steady custom on account of a wide-reaching menu that aims to keep everyone happy – and it usually does. The design is surreal to say the least, and is laid out in such a way as to always guarantee a lively atmosphere. $$ Hala Koszyki (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63, koszyki.com Finally open after years of disruption and destruction, the launch of this food hall was the big story of Autumn 2016. Integrating old with new, this huge project brings together some 18 food outlets inside a busy interior that’s all iron girders and industrial lighting. While there’s a feeling that there should have been a bigger focus on artisan, independent traders, that’s done nothing to dent Koszyki’s astonishing popularity. Units of note include the Gringo Salsownia, Port Royal Fish & Oyster Bar, and the Sobramesa Tapas Bar. $$ InFormal Kitchen (D3) Pl. Małachowskiego 2 (enter from Traugutta), tel. 531 918 534, informalkitchen.pl There’s plenty of fireworks over the course of a vibrant menu that sources its produce from regional eco farms: meat from within a 26-kilometer radius of Warsaw, dairy produce from Mazury and fish from Pomerania. The rump of lamb is a class act, and bettered only by the pear and thyme tart for dessert. $$ Joseph’s Bistro & Wine (B1) ul. Inflancka 4, josephs.pl Spacious and smooth on the eye, Joseph’s has the feel of a place where good things happen: and indeed they do. For starters there’s a visually enticing tuna tartar, not to mention gherkin with rhubarb and cheese. It’s frankly remarkable with all sorts of tastes popping out thanks to a marinade that involves passionfruit, chili, vinegar and maple syrup. As a main, don’t miss the duck breast: a simple thing of beauty that’s given extra vigor with a star anise demi-glace. $$ Kieliszki Na Hożej ul. Hoża 41, kieliszkinahozej.pl The only Polish graduate of the Alain Ducasse academy in Paris, Dawid Balana has combined everything he’s learned along the way to fashion a menu that’s high on local produce but cooked with a classic French twist. The tastes are precise and well-balanced, but also varied enough to give a seemingly simple dishes several interesting sub-plots. From the outside, it looks like something straight from the 6th arrondissement. Through the door,

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listings / restaurants and diners are met head-on by a seductive space that’s dark, intimate and full of gleaming glass: beautiful. $$ Kuchnia Otwarta ul. Klimczaka 1 (Royal Wilanów), kuchniaotwarta.pl Kuchnia Otwarta have created a swell of excitement that’s rippled way beyond Wilanów. Why? Plotted out by Michał Molenda, the menu is a sincere work based around regional, seasonal produce: nothing contrived, nothing forced, it’s a card that roots out the very best that Poland has to offer: in winter, the wild boar stew, served in a cast iron pot, is a dark, delicious work that nourishes the soul.

La Brasserie Modern (D3) ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8332, sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com The interior of Didier Gomez whispers intimacy, yet it also embraces notions of space and light.

The casual elegance that emanates from the design is accented by warm colors, low banquettes and glinting mirrors. Acting as a

ballast to it all is an open kitchen, in which you’ll find Executive Chef Maciej Majewski honing his art. His is a menu that fits seamlessly with the surrounds: a fresh, modern look at French cuisine, but one that values clarity and simplicity. $$

Loft (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 668 016 964, restauracjaloft.pl Color, that’s what Loft has. It’s everywhere – from the design, which is all bubble shaped lights and splashy, bright cushions, to the drinks: extravagant cocktails that possibly glow in the dark. The menu is full of playful experimentation, something reflected by a seasonal menu that has, in the past, presented such choices as chicken with strawberries. $$ MOD (D6) ul. Oleandrów 8, fb.com/MODOleandrow8 Chef Trisno’s menu sets his French culinary

training against his Singaporean upbringing.

The outcome is a card (actually, a printed sheet of paper) that makes for dangerously enjoyable reading: duck hearts with beetroot / soy emulsion and braised red cabbage; duck confit with pok choy, soy / red wine sauce and spicy cranberry chutney. Moderate prices and funky décor (a retro mirrored wall, upside down plants hanging from the ceiling) give it an ad hoc edge and plenty of character. Note: by day its Warsaw’s top donut store, so visit at night for their proper menu. $$ BEST WAWA 2016 “Casual Dining” Mokotowska 69 (E5) ul. Mokotowska 69, mokotowska69.com Set inside a rotunda at the tail end of the street, it’s a place that exudes elegance and class.

Most of all, however, it’s a restaurant to be enjoyed. Brought to you by the same team credited for Merliniego 5, Mokotowska’s appreciation of steak has been lifted from their elder sister. Yet the virtues of this restaurant extend beyond steak alone: the

La Brasserie Moderne is a modern interpretation of traditional brasserie designed to bring the taste of the French art de vivre right to your table. Discover a seasonal menu skillfully composed by chef Maciej Majewski by combining the finest culinary traditions of France with local flavors and a modern twist.

Our open kitchen will complement your dining experience by creating a sense of participation in a live culinary show.

La Brasserie Moderne, visit us Mon.-Sat. noon-midnight | Królewska St 11 | 00-065 Warsaw | Tel. +48 22 657 83 82 | Email: brasserie.moderne@sofitel.com | www.facebook.com/brasserie.moderne

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listings / restaurants Insider enjoyed a volley of greats – creamy breaded calf brains, sophisticated smoked eel, and Mazurian crayfish served in a deep, joyous sauce of rowan berry and brandy. $$ Momu.Gastrobar (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 11, tel. 506 100 001, momu. pl Back open after a revamp and a rethink, the biggest talking point has been the star addition of a wood smoker imported from the States. Allegedly the only one of its kind in Poland, the menu has been adjusted accordingly to play to this strength – with this in mind, the ribs are a must-have. $ Plato ul. Klimczaka 1 (Royal Wilanow), restauracjaplato.pl Conceived as a ‘smart casual’ restaurant, it’s a reasonably compact space with a modern style and incandescent bulbs hanging from a complex cat’s cradle of interweaving wires: classy but nothing too flashy or flamboyant. Then there’s the menu, a strange work that sees Spanish influences brushing shoulders next to Polish and Asian.

It sounds silly and preposterous but my God it works. December saw us wowed by beef tartar cut from Polish Hereford, an aromatic oriental brith, and a refined halibut encircled with sage pesto, redcurrants and fresh almonds. Stunning. $$ Północ Poludnie (E7) ul. Bagatela 10, pn-pd.pl Besides the food being colorful and inventive there is a restaurant concept that works here. It has a visible kitchen, which at times is a little noisy, a beautifully designed interior, not to mention an attentive wait staff that are familiar with what they serve. $$ Rozbrat 20 (F5) ul. Rozbrat 20, rozbrat20.com.pl Much noise has been made about Rozbrat 20’s bread and wine selection, but their food is also something of a standout. Our trip in December meant twirls of herring pickled in vinegar and herbs and surrounded by a whorl of pond green colors; expertly assembled and boisterously flavored Hungarian foie

gras; and a roll of gelatinous pork with ribbons of crispy salsify and a reassuring, fleshy BEST WAWA 2016 taste. Outstanding. $$ “Upscale Casual” Sawa Bistro (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5, sawabistro.pl An unpretentious ride through largely Mediterranean cuisine with standouts including ‘Galicianstyle octopus’ and an Italian tartar with olive powder, shallots in port and balsamic vinegar and a smoked egg. The interiors are stripped to their original concrete and feature an eye-catching mosaic designed in the PRL style, as well as floor-to-ceiling windows and cheerful blue flashes. $$ Secado (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 66, tel. 608 707 799, secado.com.pl Casual, intimate interiors complement a menu that’s expanded from its original Latin leanings. Everything we’ve tried here has been close to culinary gold, and that includes the surf & turf, tortillas and the roast beef. $$

New menu Lunch 12.00-16.00

35 zł

16.00-20.00

Aperitivo bar Prosecco free

www.focaccia.pl tel.: +48 22 829 69 69, ul. Senatorska 13/15, Warsaw/Old Town, restauracja@focaccia.pl, fb.com/restauracjafocaccia

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listings / restaurants Soul Kitchen Bistro (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 18A, soulkitchen.pl If the previous venue was all slanted towards low-pitched business conversation then the new one is positively festive in comparison: scuffed brickwork, tall bar stools, a long communal table, etc. The seasonal menu is a pick-and-mix of small-to-medium plates, including a halibut gravlax, whose delicate taste juxtaposes well against the rougher, earthier kick of the radish, and crayfish presented in a bird’s nest of green beans, fennel and leek. For mains, look for the braised beef. $ Stixx (A4) Pl. Europejski 4A, tel. 22 340 4040, stixx.pl It’s east to distrust a menu with such international diversity, but the kitchen crew really make it come together: the Indian section is particularly outstanding. Then there’s the design, a balance between slick corporate and sexy cosmopolitan: with the Warsaw Spire towering above it outside, it’s the kind of address to take any new arrival who still thinks of Poland as being backward. $$

Strefa (C3) ul. Próżna 9, tel. 22 255 0850, restauracjastrefa.pl There’s a swan white elegance here, with lots of pristine colors and smart, smooth-talking service. What a refreshing change. Chef Jarosław Walczyk favors

sous-vide techniques, and his is a magic, masterful hand – his duck is flawless, and the homemade ice cream with seasonal fruits is quite a follow-up. $$$

Benihana crew to demonstrate their riveting range of nifty knifework and daredevil antics.

Outside of the realm of the grill, the sushi is also strikes the right spot. $$

Tusz Tusz Bistro (C2) Pl. Bankowy 2 Hidden round the back of Pl. Bankowy’s epic blue tower, Tusz Tusz is the kind of place Warsaw needs more of: a catch-all solution with a local menu that keeps office workers in mind – it’s fast, available from dawn but doesn’t cut corners when it comes to basic standards.

Full review coming soon. $$

Kago Sushi ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki), kagosushi. pl A place of such merit that it’s worth bludgeoning your way through the surging crowds of off-duty lawyers and second rate ‘slebs.

A side project from the team behind Izumi, portioning here is strict and skimpy, but the precision, attention to detail and flavors are second to none. Bills creep up fast as you opt for ‘just one more nigiri’, but such is the brilliance that complaints are rare. $$

japanese & sushi

Sakana Sushi Bar ul. Burakowska 5/7 tel. 22 636 0505, ul. Moliera 4/6, tel. 22 826 5958, & ul.

Wąwozowa 6, lok.10B, tel. 22 498 8899, sakana.pl Sushi as a fashion statement?

That’s what you find in Sakana, a place where the glam and the great of Warsaw peacock around with feathers on display.

Ignoring the general vanity and unpleasantness, one can’t help but applaud the sushi – if there was one winner in the sushi wars of the noughties, then Sakana was it. $$

Benihana (C4) ul. Twarda 2/4, benihanapoland.com Fire, flash, show and sizzle: the Benihana experience merges cooking with cabaret with diners sat ringside around teppanyaki grills.

These cooking stations are the stage for the

Sato Gotuje ul. Pawińskiego 24 Ochota’s culinary drought is over, and in some style as well.

While the plain interiors look bald and boring, the cooking of Satoru Yaegashi is all art and precision: braised duck breast with

Warbuger Na Żelazna (B4) ul. Żelazna 58/62 The easiest mistake one can make is to think this is a burger joint – in part it is, but the whole truth is that it’s so much more. A complete upgrade from their original joint in Mokotów, the real attraction is an enticing page of more-ish, meaty mains: oxtail, beef cheeks and other snips of bits and offal. $$

Loft is the perfect place to pause for a moment for a coffee, to meet with friends for lunch or a late dinner – most of all, it’s a chance to escape the city bustle while remaining in the heart of Warsaw. ul. Złota 11 tel. 668 016 964 restauracjaloft.pl

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listings / restaurants mustard; fried sardines with roasted sesame seeds; and heaps of homemade udon in warming fish broth. Often outstanding, it’s little wonder that people are arriving in droves from all across town: bookings aren’t mandatory, but they’re definitely advised. $$ Shoku (A4) ul. Karolkowa 30, shoku.pl In local terms, this has to be amongst the most blogged about restaurants of the year thus far. While it actually opened several months back, it’s only now that the place is gathering steam and getting recognized thanks to word-of-mouth.

In truth, it’s not hard to see what the fuss is about: occupying a cool, almost industriallooking spot not far from the Rising Museum, Shoku offers an excellent menu of Asian-style tapas and small plates inside a buzzy background that’s never short of custom. The tuna steak is recommended. $$

of this, and little brush strokes of that. That’s all elevated even further by deliciously upscale interiors befitting of the Spire location. $$$ Wasabi (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 2, tel. 22 314 6963, restauracjawasabi.pl Rated as one of the best value for money deals on sushi you’ll find in the city, the sets offer phenomenally good value. Sushi master Masahiro Ueyama knows all the tricks in his book, and his green tea tiramisu is a surprising finish. $$

jewish Florentin (E4) ul. Smolna 40, fb.com/FlorentinWarszawa A quite beautiful, pale-colored dining room that boldly presents the cuisine of modern day Israel. High on North African twists and turns, there’s a creativity at work here that marks Florentin out as one of the most exciting openings in recent times: if in doubt, the veal with harissa, grilled pepper and pear puree is a winning order that deserves full attention.

Onto dessert, and make space for the basil

Sushi Zushi (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 420 3373, sushizushi.pl The mania for sushi is in recess, and that’s a good thing – the rogue operators are dead or dying off, and are survived by the best. And make no mistake, Sushi Zushi continue to be one of the No. 1 ex-pat choices. Appreciated by a stunning crowd, the rolls are often bold, creative and always astonishingly fresh. $$ Tomo (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2344, tomo. pl While Warsaw’s other sushi stops gather cobwebs Tomo packs out each night – that should say enough. With the maki, sushi and sashimi bobbing past on wooden platters, this place aims for fast, maximum turnover without ever making the diner feel second best. $$ Uki Uki (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, tel. 728 827 705, ukiuki.pl How much do the locals appreciate Warsaw’s original udon bar? Enough to queue outside the door? That’s right. Dining is a close quarters experience here, but is done so without complaint: that electric pasta maker turns out noodles of such chewy goodness that everyone leaves beaming. $$ Wabu (A4) Pl. Europejski 2 (Warsaw Spire), wabu.pl Sushi becomes a heaven’s gate spiritual experience in Wabu with the evening passing in a blur of beautiful compositions, of silky slithers of fish crowned with expert pinches

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listings / restaurants panna cotta served with ‘tomato jam’. $$ Pod Samsonem (C1) ul. Freta 3/5, tel. 22 831 1788, podsamsonem.pl Operating since the 1950s – crazy when you think about it. This is the place for an ordinary meal in an ordinary space. The menu mixes aspects of Polish and Jewish cooking, and fails to do a good job of either. $ Tel Aviv (D5) ul. Poznanska 11, restauracjatelaviv.pl Although this multicultural melting pot is best-known for its Israeli street food, it’s the

shift towards ‘vegan fine dining’ that has really caught the attention. $$

korean Miss Kimchi (B4) ul. Żelazna 58/62, tel. 570 186 066 Cheap and cheerful Korean street food served in a small, steamy space that’s frequently packed to the rafters. Box sets come piled high with meat, rice and veg. The spotlight falls on the bibimbap, a satisfying mess of shredded veg, lively spices, a fried egg and beef bulgogi.

This is replenishment in its truest form. $ Sora (A4) ul. Wronia 45 Buoyed by a surge in Korean expat numbers, Korena cuisine found itself cresting in 2016. Yet despite the increasingly competitive market, Sora are commonly accepted as the rulers of the roost. The tabletop BBQ sets are an essential order and ideal for the shared bonding experience. It’s even better with copious quantaties of Makkoli wine. $$

latin & spanish Casa Pablo (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5A, tel. 22 324 5781, casapablo.pl “We give Spanish food a new twist,” declares chef Gonzalo de Salas, which explains why, in between pungent cheeses and acorn-fed Bellota ham, we find ourselves demolishing a variety of dishes that buck all notions of tradition: as a starter the beetroot-marinated salmon served with wasabi emulsion is a fine example of this.

With de Salas performing balletic tricks in the kitchen, Casa Pablo presents a masterful menu that ripples with adventure. $$ Ceviche Bar (C4) ul. Twarda 4, cevichebar.pl Created by the award-winning Martin Gimenez Castro, Warsaw’s first specialist ceviche bar serves up various interpretations of this classic raw fish dish: the corvina is an explosion of peppy, citrusy tastes and leaves you in no doubt why some are tipping ceviche to become as big as sushi. Try for yourself inside a contemporary space in which the dining area merges seamlessly with a kitchen decorated with a mural of Maradona. $$ Mojo Picon ul. Prosta 53, mojopicon.pl Smart and atmospheric yet still pleasingly casual, the early feedback has been healthy.

Specializing in Hispanic cuisine, especially that of the Canary Islands, specific strengths include a broad selection of Spanish wines, artfully composed tapas and a paella for the purists. A smaller operation the size of a mouse hole operates on Poznanska. $$ Tapas Gastrobar (A4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 251 1310, tapasbar.pl The popular practice is to order so many plates and bottles that the table

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listings / restaurants becomes a Magic Eye of kaleidoscope patterns. A great place for sharing and general interaction, the ambiance and quality belies the corporate anonymity of the location.

Though the gazapcho is first class its bettered by the patatas bravos: fried potatoes in a ballsy tomato sauce. $$

mexican Dos Tacos (D4) ul. Jasna 22, tel. 22 243 4618, dostacos.pl

Who doesn’t like asking for something that’s ‘under the counter’. In the case of Dos Tacos, doing so means inquiring about their range of ‘salsa clandestinas’: extra hot sauces designed for reckless thrill-seekers. But the true secret weapon at Dos Tacos is Isabel Balderas, a Mexican chef that has mastered the bright, bold tastes of her native country.

This cuisine has enjoyed a breakout year in Warsaw, but while the millennials clamor over new food trucks and funky little start-ups, Dos Tacos is a timely reminder that the old guard sometimes know best. $$

Gringo Bar (E9) ul. Odolańska 15, tel. 22 848 9523, A Mexican wave is upon us, and high time too. After years of suffering frozen ingredients, timid flavors and daft Mariachi music to persuade us it’s all authentic, a raft of new cut-price eateries are showing the rest how it’s done.

Cooked and folded by fist bumping lads in back-to-front caps and baggy t-shirts, the food at Gringo is fiery, fresh and full of zing. There are detractors who claim this is a Polonized version of this cuisine, but the informal Gringo remains one of the market leaders. $

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The award-winning Enoteka Polska welcomes guests to the heart of Warsaw’s historic New Town. A perfect combo of restaurant, wine bar and wine store, aside from offering excellent Italian cuisine, we are a renowned importer with a portfolio of prestigious wine labels from across Europe. Our direct import policy allows guests to enjoy outstanding value for15:08 money.

Salto Advert Feb 20.pdf 1 20/02/17

Rynek Nowego Miasta 13/15, enotekapolska.pl tel. 882 048 012

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listings / restaurants La Sirena (D5) ul. Piękna 54 Creamy guacamole the color of Kermit; cocktails that are both vicious and delicious; and drunken beans full of heart and vim. But La Sirena gets even better, particularly with the short ribs burrito and a readjusted ‘almost death salsa’ that’s learned to say POW. Add to this a macheteladen interior that draws inspiration from the ultra-violent films of Danny Trejo, and you understand why this tiny, backstreet cantina has become the talk of the town. At no point in its history has Warsaw enjoyed better Mexican food. $$ Urban Burritos (D6) ul. Piękna 22, urbanburritos.pl It’s here, in this unassuming subterranean world, that people gather for what is being hyped as Warsaw’s top burrito. Offering fillings of pork, beef, chicken and Portobello mushroom, wraps come expertly constructed and served with salsas that sing with gusto. Set within shouting distance of the US Embassy, peak times see Urban Burritos fill to the seams

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with America’s finest. $

middle eastern Falafel Bejrut (B2) ul. Nowolipki 15 Light, bright and buzzing with custom, this cheerful venture has a small scattering of seating and an expanded menu whose talking point is award-winning falafel.

The hummus, too, is pretty amazing. $ Falafel Bejrut Moliera 8 (D2) ul. Moliera 8 So what would you prefer – an underperforming steakhouse or what’s commonly regarded as the best falafel Warsaw has ever seen? In all truth, polls are closed on that one. Taking the place of the defunct Muu Muu restaurant, Falafel Bejrut have grown from life as a ‘food bike’ outside Hala Mirowska, to a runaway juggernaut in the heart of Warsaw. Both the falafel and hummus are exceptional, and you’ll find their latest venue also serving artisanal vegan ice cream from Vegestacja. $

Le Cedre (E1) Al. Solidarności 61, tel.

22 670 1166, www. lecedre.pl With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops. $$ Le Cedre 84 (B3) Al. Solidarności 84, tel.

22 618 8999, lecedre. pl Le Cedre just keep on getting it right.

Authenticity is key in this chainlette (well, there’s another across the river), as you’ll discover when talking to Tony, the Lebanese owner. To see the diversity of this cuisine, order the balbaak (six cold starters) or the byblos (six hot). And food aside, it’s the atmosphere that carries them

listings / restaurants that extra yard: the whole philosophy of this cuisine is to share and share alike, making it a uniquely engaging experience when dining with friends. $$ Shuk ul. Grójecka 127 Located behind Hala Banacha in this gradually blooming district of Warsaw, SHUK’s certainly worth the tram ride if you’re not a native Ochotian. An offshoot of the acclaimed Mezze, highlights on our visit included a well-seasoned Arabic soup with lentils and spinach followed by a skillet of fried oyster mushrooms cooked with onions and served alongside harissa topped with rose petals. $ Sokotra (D5) ul. Wilcza 27, tel. 22 270 2766, sokotra.pl It says a lot for Warsaw’s developing tastes that it can now house a successful Yemeni venture. Bathed in chatter and chaotic kitchen sounds, Sokotra is an informal place with Indian twists on the menu, and a card that encourages plenty of plate sharing. $$

polish

Ale Gloria (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7080, alegloria.pl Who said romance was dead?

Here wedding white colors are fused with a strawberry motif inside this gourmet fave.

Keeping patrons returning are aromatic dishes with a contemporary twist – try the duck in rose sauce. $$$

Czerwony Wieprz (Red Hog) (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 22 850 3144, czerwonywieprz.pl An amusing restaurant that looks back at communism through a rose-tinted lens.

Under the glowering gaze of commie tyrants,

staff dressed like obedient members of the party’s Youth League deliver hefty dishes from a cheeky menu that is in itself a collector’s item. $$

Delicja Polska (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 64, tel. 22 826 4770, delicjapolska.pl Looking stately (pink bows, gilt touches and immaculate linen) but never stuffy, Delicja have a modern Polish menu that includes sous-vide salmon marinated in beetroot leaves, then topped with horseradish foam and dill emulsion.

Brilliant. But then so was everything else we tried, including the exquisite seasoned roast beef. $$ Dom Polski (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 2432, restauracjadompolski.pl Almost like it was designed for the manor born, Dom Polski

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listings / restaurants has the rarefied atmosphere of a country retreat: bow-tied staff who click their heels, decorative antiques and a menu that’s a sumptuous anthology of posh Polish cooking.

When you need to give visitors a sense of classic Warsaw, Dom Polski is the first out of the hat. $$$ Dom Polski Belwederska (F8) ul. Belwederska 18A, restauracjadompolski.pl Accessed via curling pathways and bursting shrubs this restaurant conjures images of an aristocrat’s manor. The air of privilege matches a menu that’s rich in fanciful classics such as their signature goose. Elegant and exquisite, consider it your default choice for a taste of true Poland. $$

RESTAURANT &

VODKA

AT E L I E R

Elixir by Dom Wódki (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl There are some who call the food here ‘deconstructed Polish’. In actuality, ‘reconstructed’ would be closer to the mark. Chef Michał Tkaczyk has taken local classics and redrafted the recipes with the swoosh of a contemporary pen. The outcome is a pleasure from start to finish: a life affirming żurek, a tartar that could fulfill ambassadorial duties for Poland, and a handsome beef tenderloin sprinkled with crispy potato shavings. Thoughtful pairings with lesser-known, boutique vodkas add another dimension that serves to complete this pleasing, patriotic adventure. $

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Folk Gospoda (B3) ul. Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605, folkgospoda.pl If you missed the last train to Zakopane, then a night in Folk Gospoda is the next best thing. Kitted out like a typical tavern in the Tatras, it’s a good-humored celebration of mountain-slope traditions: heaps of meat and lard with plenty of vodka and song in between. $$ Inny Wymiar ul. Świętokrzyska 14 Highly imaginative Polish cuisine served inside intriguing interiors. Much blogged about since opening, it’s been noted by many as one to watch. Full review coming soon. $$ Kafe Zielony Niedzwiedź (E4) ul. Smolna 4, tel. 731 996 006, kafezn.pl Exceeding all expectations in their second year, the Green Bear has turned into the mothership for all things relating to slow food: if in doubt, check the menu, an ode to provenance that comes complete with detailed biographies of their suppliers. Using creative techniques, this restaurant modernizes Polish food and rolls it out inside a stylish building popular with people who look like they might well be famous. Incidentally, the sea buckthorn cream was our top dessert of 2015. $$

Kieliszki na Próżnej (C3) ul. Próżna 12, tel. 501 764 674, kieliszkinaproznej.pl You’ll find Kieliszki na Próżnej, the latest restaurant to mark the rehabilitation of Próżna, so named after the 1,116 wineglasses that hang tantalizingly over the bar. As an anchor feature the suspended glassware is arresting, and equaled only by a long stretch of wall art doodled by Mariusz Tarkawian. The food matches up to the interiors, with a modern Polish menu that – on our visit – involved a thick, brilliantly spreadable foie gras pate, a thick slab of brawn and a delicate piece of moist Baltic cod. It’s pure seasonal comfort. $$ Kmicic (D1) ul. Piwna 27, kmicicrestauracja.pl Aiming to evoke the spirit of pre-war Warsaw, Kmicic is something of a veteran on the Old Town circuit, and as such a perennial favorite of passing tourists. The menu leans heavily towards traditional and is noted for its game including pheasant, venison and boar. $$ Mała Polana Smaków (F9) ul. Belwederska 13/44, tel. 22 400 8048, polanasmakow.pl Put simply, it works on every level: from the service to the space – outside, a terrace featuring upcycled crates overlooking Morskie Oko, and on the inside, a cute little room with woodsy bits and big glass jars of mystery ingredients. It’s casual, but still fit for more serious roles: e.g. girlfriend night. And the food: exceptional.

Lots of seasonally changing choices that on

listings / restaurants our visit meant salmon sausage matched with beetroot and horseradish sauce along with pinches of lavender and fennel. $$ BEST WAWA 2016 “Modern Polish” Opasły Tom (E4) ul. Foksal 17, kregliccy.pl Sneaked off a lively street, guests duck down into a chain of two narrow-ish chambers that, whilst not exactly casual, feel comfortable and familiar. While long-standing chef Agata Wojda has left to pursue new projects, the management’s decision to pursue a ‘pop-up’ style policy of hosting guest chefs has reaped rewards.

Despite adding edge and excitement and a sense of the unknown, this restaurant has retained its base philosophy of promoting vivid flavors and seasonal trends. $$ Papu (D9) al. Niepodległości 132/136, tel. 22 856 7788, restauracjapapu.pl Evoking the spirit of a gentleman’s manor, Papu looks every inch the classic Polish restaurant. Reliant on regional produce from mom & pop farmsteads, chef Bartek Kędra’s menu does a gold carat job of enhancing old-fashioned recipes through the use of modern techniques. $$

Restauracja Pod Gigantami (E5) Al. Ujadowskie 24, tel. 22 629 2312,

podgigantami.pl All pomp and splendor, huge portraits of monarchs in ermine stare down from the walls; pristine parquet floors gently creak underfoot; from another chamber, the sound of clinking glasses whispers through the air. Yet as much as the interior makes an impact it fails to steal the show. That belongs to Paweł Zieliński, a chef whose biography includes a stint at the Michelin starred L’Ecrivain in Dublin.

Now back in Poland, his menu is a patriotic proclamation of all that is good. It’s here the Insider enjoyed it’s favorite żurek of 2016.

For mains, don’t miss duck with cherry and cranberry sauce. $$$ Restauracja Polska “Różana” (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 22 848 1225, restauracjarozana.com.pl The rarified atmosphere of Różana is a pleasure indeed. Close to the frontline of Mokotów / Śródmieście, you’d never guess the proximity of the center.

Seated in their garden, one feels removed from the city – a fountain burbles quietly in the background, starlings hop around the trees. From the inside, one hears the distant tinkle of the house pianist. Just being here is a thrill in itself, and the food is a Polish dining extravaganza served from the top table: farmhouse duck, saddle of venison, etc. $$ Opasły Tom (F4) ul. Solec 44, tel. 798 363 996, solec.waw. pl Solec 44 does nothing if not challenge gastronomic norms. Found on the upper floor of a shabby Communist pavilion, the

versatility of this place makes it great to hang out with friends over beer and board games: it’s not often you find faces from the TV in the same room as student types, but that’s the kind of inclusive atmosphere here. The biggest draw though is the chef, Aleksander Baron. Combing the farms and forests of Poland for ingredients, his obsession with old baroque recipes, nose-to-tail cooking and forgotten fermentation processes is inspiring to all who adore cooking. $$

Specjały Regionalne (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 44, specjalyregionalne.pl To step across the threshold is to leave Warsaw behind: mimicking the look of a rural pantry, Specjały is awash with provincial craft work and traditional dress. A truly ethnographic journey, the menu whisks diners across Poland with its choice of classic dishes and regional ingredients: there is heavy, meaty soup served in a hollowed out hunk of bread; snails farmed in Warmia; and a warming beef goulash that hugs the soul. The commitment to small town Poland extends to the alcohol, and no visit is complete without a stiffening drop of vodka. $$ Stary Dom ul. Puławska 104/106, tel. 22 646 4208, restauracjastarydom.pl A classic restaurant

PRESENTING THE MOST BEAUTIFUL RESTAURANT IN POLAND

Al. Ujazdowskie 24, tel. 22 629 2312, www.podgigantami.pl

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listings / restaurants in style and history: back in the day it was a favorite haunt of jockeys and race goers from the horse track nearby. Pre-war recipes form the basis of the menu, with the team using seasonal produce and the latest technology to bring out its best. $$

Zapiecek Locations inc. ul. Nowy Świat 64, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska 13, tel. 22 635 61 09, & ul. Wańkowicza 1, open 11:00-22:00, CH Arkadia, zapiecek. eu Seven Warsaw locales, with our favorite found in the vaulted passages of Świętojańska. The menu is highly traditional, with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’.

It’s for the pierogi though for which they’re famous; find approx. fifty types delivered by servers dressed like saucy country maids. $ Zielnik (D10) ul. Odyńca 15, tel. 22 844 3500,

restauracjazielnik.pl A quiet Mokotów side street is the setting for this little secret. In it, flowers, lots of them, and a warming wood interior just right for winter. In summer, head instead to their glorious garden across the street in the park: adding a sophisticated twist to the holy grill, the skewered lamb is to die for. $$

seafood L’Arc (E8) ul. Puławska 16, tel. 519 000 050, larc. pl You sometimes suspect Warsaw doesn’t give seafood the respect it deserves. But the city’s shortcomings are atoned for by L’Arc. Choose from the lobsters swimming on Death Row, then settle back for a meal to die for.

Likewise, the oysters, crab and mussels never disappoint. $$ Lokal na Rybę (D9) ul. Kwiatowa 1/3/4, fb.com/lokalnarybe Seafood doesn’t play a particularly distin-

guished role in Warsaw’s culinary history, so the opening of a good fish restaurant tends to get the locals talking. But Lokal isn’t just good, it goes several steps beyond. Open just three days a week (Thu-Sat, evenings only), the rotating menu presents a handful of daily choices against a simple, no pretence interior that’s often packed solid – reservations come recommended, as do the mussel dishes. $$ U Rysia (C4) ul. Marszałkowska 140 (enter from ul. Rysia), urysia.com.pl Devoid of frills bar a glowing neon sign and a brooding mural of Jesus, it looks like a Polish fish restaurant should – basic but with an undercurrent of bustle that keeps the mood bright. It tastes like the real thing as well. Sourcing their catch from the freshwater lakes of northern Poland, the offer is divided into fish that have been smoked, steamed, fried or baked. Check out the perch ‘chips’ fried in batter. $ Zmiana Klimatu (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, zmianaklimatu.pl An

THE DELICIOUS WORLD OF POLISH CUISINE Discover the delicious world of Polish cuisine at Specjały Regionalne. We source our produce from family-run farms so only the most authentic tastes end up on your table. We also offer classes and workshops that reveal the secrets of the Polish pantry!

44 Nowy Swiat Street, Warsaw +48 662 254 215 restauracja@specjalyregionalne.pl, www.specjalyregionalne.pl

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listings / restaurants interesting looking restaurant that affords diners the chance to climb up some steps and eat inside a boat. The food, frankly, is a different league: a thick, throbbing lemon soup poured carefully over a dust of crayfish; two slithers of seabass layered onto a creamy black risotto; and steak served under a glass dome billowing with Cherrywood smoke.

Everything we tried was stunning. $$

specialty food shops Bazar Olkuska (E10) ul. Olkuska 12 Once a sad little side street, Olkuska has evolved to become just about the worst kept secret in Warsaw. Home to the city’s top eco-market, trips here end with shopping bags filled with French cheeses, Hungarian sausages and fresh fruit and veg.

Forteca Kregliccy ul. Zakroczymska 12, kregliccy.eu/forteca Spot the stars of Warsaw’s restaurant scene perusing the stalls at this weekly farmers’ market. Held each Wednesday, look for Pan Ziółko, Poland’s first celebrity farmer (!), Portobello’s from the country’s only organic mushroom farm and the magical yogurts from Mleczna Droga Manufaktura Serów.

steak houses Butchery & Wine (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 502 3118, butcheryandwine.pl The Sarf London-born Bertha oven has revolutionized the way steak is cooked, retaining moisture in a way no-one thought possible. Expect robust pieces of animal full of big, brawny tastes, but there’s so much more than just meat: starters involve a sea bass ceviche that pings with citrusy flavor not to mention more-ish pork crackling that pop like fire bangers in the mouth. A place of energy and ambition, it’s a great mix of both new and classic. Bookings advised. $$ Downtown Restaurant (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental Hotel, level 2), tel. 22 328 8745 There’s now a few candidates for Warsaw’s best steak, and Downtown have certainly upped the erm, stakes, with their new menu. Yes, the doors of Downtown are a gateway to heaven – particularly true if, like us, your vision of heaven is a rich green field filled with fat,

juicy cows. But don’t for one moment assume the offer ends with cows. $$$ Hoża (D5) ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 603 778 275, hoza. warszawa.pl Wine and steak: it sounds so simple, but Hoża have taken two simple pleasures to another level. It’s an ebullient space with service right out of charm school, and a kitchen team with a real knowledge of cows. A red-blooded affair, the menu is a steak sensation and well paired with a handpicked wine list. $$ Merliniego 5 (E10) ul. Merliniego 5, tel. 22 646 0810, merliniego5.pl A classic looking steakhouse that swirls in shadow, brickwork and elegant touches, it’s a place to immerse yourself in an atmosphere that’s all surreptitious conversation and distant clinking glasses.

The steaks are out-of-this world, with USDA prime beef from New York’s legendary Ottomanelli & Sons and Scottish beef from London’s Smithfield Market. On our last visit we splurged on the Grade 9+ wagyu ‘kobe’ rib-eye and found ourselves eating the steak of a lifetime. Simply amazing. $$$

‘Simplicity, elegance and atmosphere’

Cafe • Wine Bar • Restaurant • Whisky Bar • Wine Cellar ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 515 037 001 www.hoza.warszawa.pl www.facebook.com/hoza25 Open 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-21:00

Salto (C6) ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8771, saltorestauracja.pl When Martin Gimenez Castro scooped top prize in the Top Chef program it simply confirmed what foodies had known for years: that this is a man of some talent. Now leading the kitchen in Salto, the highlight of Castro’s menu is undoubtedly the ‘steak weekends’. We challenge you to find better.

During the week opt instead for his South American inspired dishes. Salto has the hallmarks of a success story, and under Castro’s captaincy that’s a certainty to happen. $$$ BEST WAWA 2015 “Foreign Chef”

thai Thai Me Up (E4) ul. Foksal 16, thaimeup.pl Taking the spot once occupied by Papaya, Thai Me Up offers up a far more informal experience than the former, something understood by one glance at the interior: gone are the gloss finishes of yesteryear, replaced by something far more casual, fun and cluttered (check the monkey lights!). As for the food, that succeeds in bringing the fresh, snappy tastes of Asia www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / restaurants to Foksal. The wok dishes are a forte and deserve special attention. $$ Thai Thai (C2) Pl. Teatralny 3, tel. 601 818 283, thaithai.pl In terms of design it’s little short of perfect: gold vaulted interiors lend a muted glow to a largely black on black space while serene looking Buddha’s peer on the diners below.

As for the food, that’s one big success story with plenty of lively flavors and dynamic colors. The Tom Yang Kung, a deeply nourishing fish broth that awakens the senses with a sharp, spicy jolt, is a must! $$ Thaisty (C2) Pl. Bankowy 4, tel. 730 000 024, thaisty. pl The coup here has been the recruitment of Chanunkan Duangkumma, Warsaw’s favorite Thai chef. The menu has street food inspirations and also includes several recipes passed down Duangkumma’s family line: consider the BBQ beef skewers essential.

Vivid colors and a busy open kitchen lend the place a happy buzz that lasts through the day. $$

vegan & wholefood Edamame Vegan Sushi (D5) ul. Wilcza 11, edamame.pl Sushi without its star ingredient sounds ridiculous, but this vegan sushi joint manages to out-manoeuver

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its traditional competitors by replacing below-par fish with fresh, vegetarian produce: snap peas, radish, carrots, asparagus, etc. The results are both magical and addictive, and leave you wondering if vegan sushi stands to be Warsaw’s next trend. $$ Lokal Vegan Bistro (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, 517 615 122 Aside from a small menu consisting of more standard vegan offers, Lokal keep Homer Simpson characters in mind with regular guest slots for street food that’s given a full vegan makeover. Offhand, that’s meant vegan kebabs, cheesesteaks, burgers and zapiekanka, all of which have been pretty damn good. $ Mango Vegan Street Food (D4) mangovegan.pl Everything vegan that you’d actually like to eat: veggie burgers, fries, falafel, soup, a fruit salad – here, obviously a mango salad. Especially recommended is the hummus with sun-dried tomatoes – a nice twist on a simple, classic dish. $ Weranda Bistro (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki) Warmly decorated with shrubbery and dangling paper decoys, Weranda’s design is thoughtful enough to be in equilibrium with the wider Koszyki setting, yet sufficiently distinct to stand apart from the crowd. Kudos, as well, to the food. Celebrated for their salads, don’t expect to be pecking on morsels of rabbit food – instead, pepare for huge, leafy affairs assembled to look complex and

intriguing. Recommended is the Croatian salad which rrives ensconced inside jumbo leaves of lettuce and cascading with mango, shrimps, goat cheese and much more besides. $$

vietnamese Oh My Pho (D5) ul. Wilcza 32, fb.com/ohmyphowilcza A busy, family-run joint, OMP’s specific claim to fame is what many are terming the best and most authentic pho in the ward. Steamy and aromatic, this is pho as it should be: full of big herby thwacks, ribboning noodles, and soft strips of meat in a clear, restorative stock.

Often cited as being the ‘soul of the nation’, just a few noisy slurps are all that’s needed to corroborate the life-affirming goodness of this beautiful broth...

Viet Street Food Check Facebook for location Viet Street Food is the eatery that the city has been waiting for: some dismiss it as a mere food truck, but many others have recognized it as the source of the best Vietnamese chow this country has ever seen. $ Viet Street Food Bistro (H4) ul. Królowej Aldony 5/2 Widely looked upon as the source of the best Vietnamese chow this city’s ever seen, the small menu reveals steaming bowls of pho and banh mi baguettes loaded with meat and greens. $

COMPLIMENTARY BREAKFAST WITH EVERY HOT BEVERAGE Offer available Mon-Fri 9am- 11:30am

cafes & wine bars NEW & NOTABLE

bakeries Aromat (C4) ul. Sienna 39, fb.com/piekarnia.aromat That many consider this their favorite bakery says it all. French flour and an expert baker ensure brilliant results, while the lemon éclairs deserve their own Facebook page.

Café Vincent (D3) ul. Nowy Świat 64 Queues build quickly as locals line up to buy baguettes, cinnamon rolls, lemon croissants and beautiful pains au chocolat. But people don’t just head in then out, a small wine list and brilliant people spying opportunities cause many to hang around.

KREM (ul. Śniadeckich 18) From the same owners as Monsieur Leon comes Krem and the difference could not be bigger. While the former is characterized by its rustic sense of simplicity, Krem has more of a swank Parisian look featuring monochrome floor tiles, marble-topped tables, flashes of artwork and retro-styled mirrors – you want to pull out the papers and spend the rest of the day here. Many do just that, attracted not just by the interiors but also a menu consisting of French cheese boards, raclette and assorted Gallic specialties.

Monique Bakery & Wine (D5) ul. Krucza 41/43, moniquebakery.pl Reports have been hit and miss about Monique, with some citing spotty service and heavy handed prices. Even so, their baguettes and croissants are fine.

Petit Appetit (E6) ul. Mokotowska 45 The smell of freshly-baked loaves often wafts into the street, leaving passers-by with no option but to peer in – sweet temptation. And sweet is the right word: aside from divine baguettes check the pastries and brioches.

Rozbrat 20 Bakery & Wine Corner (F5) ul. Rozbrat 20, rozbrat20.com.pl Best known for fathering Butchery & Wine, Daniel Pawełek makes his mark on Powiśle with the launch of Rozbrat 20, a high-end bakery that’s worthy of the rave reviews. Aside from baguettes, muffins, croissants, etc. this smart corner unit has a superb wine list and a smattering of main courses that include flat iron steak.

BARK & BEAN (ul. Willowa 19, barkandbean.pl) Warsaw’s one and only dog-centric bistro affords man’s best friend a welcome to remember: find treats and toys aplenty in a special mutt-friendly corner that has the capacity to get entertainingly anarchic. Humans, too, are looked after well by way of a menu that sets its focus on simple, homemade food. Clattery and chaotic the spirit is fun and homely and set to spread into the seasonal garden.

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cafés Być Może (E7) ul. Bagatela 14, tel. 519 000 014, bycmoze. com.pl It’s all about artisan bread and breakfast in the industrial looking Być Może. It’s taken the concept of Charlotte (groan, there’s even a communal table), and improved it with excellent breads and a crowd that’s a little less pleased with itself

listings / cafés & wine bars and a little more normal.

Cophi (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60 So small you get the idea you could fit Cophi into the palm of your hand, yet no other place in Warsaw is more devoted to sourcing the best coffees in the world.

Czuły Barbarzyńca na Piwnej (E3) ul. Piwna 20/26, czuly.pl A Parisian-style bookstore full of steps and wobbles, nooks and alcoves. All agree there’s something special here: maybe it’s the book selection – varied, esoteric and at once compelling.

Or maybe it’s the atmosphere, such that browsers anchor themselves on the sofas to lose an afternoon with their nose in a novel while sipping drip coffee. Whatever the secret ingredient is, the bookish bustle makes it the most extraordinary literary hangout in the Polish capital.

Ministerstwo Kawy (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 27, ministerstwokawy. pl Sourcing their coffee from Koppi, an internationally acclaimed Swedish roasting house, the ministry takes no short cuts in their pursuit of excellence. Utilizing Ethiopian, Costa Rican and Brazilian arabicas – some exclusive to Poland – barista Wojciech Rzytki has earned a reputation across Poland for his expert hand. Rave reviews are standard and appropriate in this standout cafe.

MiTo (D6) ul. Waryńskiego 28, mito.art.pl Café, gallery, bookstore. Of course, we’ve seen that concept before, just not done in this style. Stark white backgrounds are offset by edgy art, lending the place a Tate Modern feel, something accentuated by the earnest fashion students who gather through the day.

And there’s the toilet, a futuristic affair with piped music and a mirrored wall.

Niezłe Ziółko Café & Deli (D5) ul. Krucza 17 A shrine to pure and healthy eating, this friendly café doesn’t just brew a great coffee, but bakes its own bread and produces its own yogurt. Sit in the loft to look down on shoppers scurrying to Mokotowska, and on the way out, check out ‘Grandma’s Cupboard’ in the corner: jams, spreads and olive oils are there to buy for home.

Relaks (E9) ul. Puławska 48 Generally travelling by tram for a cup of Joe sounds excessive, but that’s exactly what you’ll be doing on discovering

Relaks. Expertly prepared, right down to the foam art, the baristas here use the finest imported machines and work only with fair trade, ‘specialty’ coffee. If you have time, the drip coffees are more than worth the wait.

The interiors supply a retro accent, and are lapped up by a very fashion aware crowd.

Stor (E3) ul. Tamka 33 Small but perfectly formed, Stor has all the clack and clatter of a busy local café. Regional beers, Chemex and Aeropress coffee and gluten-free snacks and sandwiches provide plenty of reason to pop in and idle about.

desserts Cukiernia Stary Dom ul. Puławska 104/106, restauracjastarydom. pl A beautifully elegant confectionary that evokes memories of Old Poland. Flock wallpaper and checkered floors add to the high tea ambience, as do the lines of glinting bottles and a counter stocked with temptations. Pastry chef Mariusz Palarczykow is a king in his field.

latest, Cukiernia Miodowa, possibly the most exciting launch thus far. Offering five-course ‘dessert tasting menus’, truffles, tarts, pralines and Warsaw’s first cronut, expect to be hearing a lot about this operation in the coming few months.

MOD (D6) ul. Oleandrów 8 Warsaw has always loved donuts, but it took the arrival of MOD to elevate this humble doughy vice to new levels with a glam New York-inspired makeover. Top tip: the Mango is heaven.

Odette (D4) ul. Górskiego 6/07, odette.pl Almost holistic in its ambience, the obstacle-free interior utilizes aspects of space and light, causing attention to naturally fall on the long, sleek counter that occupies one end. It’s here that sweet creations glimmer behind glass like precious little gems.

Sucre Various locations, see: sucre.pl While Sucre are best known for their ice cream, outside of summer people flock here on account of their dazzling macaroons.

Le Chocolat (D5) ul. Żurawia 26, lechocolat.pl This chic emporium is the realization of one couples desire to offer top-quality chocolates that challenge the palate of the discerning fan.

Inspired by the chocolate boutiques of Paris, over twenty different brands from a dozen countries are available. Handmade pralines and truffles, displayed almost like jewels, come in a rainbow of fillings, from coconut to cherries, mint to almonds.

Warszawski Lukier (E5) ul. Hoża 5/7 Looking pretty in pink, there’s a fun and feminine vibe that goes beyond just a quirky design that features rose colored swings. The desserts are hardcore food porn, and include Lukier’s signature freak shakes: towering treats cascading with calories and color.

Legal Cakes (B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, legalcakes.com ‘No need to cheat’ chirps their motto. Proclaiming to be the first of its kind in Poland, Legal Cakes specialize in gorgeous cakes and assorted desserts – the difference being these are all made from completely natural and healthy ingredients. Occupying a pinkish, feminine space just off Chłodna street, their own-made chocolate / fruit ‘batons’ are an essential takeout item.

Corona Sok i Mus ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki), fb.com/ coronasokimus Inconspicuous by its size, this pit stop consists of nothing more than a counter and display fridge, yet already its carved a 24-carat reputation for cold-pressed juices and small, jarred mousses. Made using local seasonal fruit and veg, then topped with superfoods and spices, the quality of Corona’s products have made it a standout.

Miodowa Cafe (D2) ul. Senatorska 13/15, miodowa-cafe.pl Gone are the days when Warsaw’s dessert / pastry shops were communist relics overseen by half-mad old bats. The rise of upscale dessert stores continues unchecked with the

juice bars

Juice Press People ul. Bracka 18 Sick and tired of being sick and tired? This two-level cubbyhole offers an easy way to cleanse and detox the body: cold-pressed from organic, locally sourced fruit and veg, find an array of juices lined up on parade in the fridge, as well as a variety of www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / cafés & wine bars coffees that make use of chemix, aeropress and drip techniques.

Think Love Juices (H4) ul. Francuska 14, thinklove.pl Nutrition nut and supermodel Anna Jagodzińska reveals the secrets of her diet in this white-clad, summery-looking Saska café. As the name indicates, juice plays a massive part in that, with the rotating choice presenting a range of drinks that run from watermelon water all the way up to complex concoctions that ignore any shortcuts. The daily changing lunch deals are superb, but leave you in no doubt just why models are so skinny.

wine bars Ale Wino! (E5) ul. Mokotowska 48, alewino.pl At first you think you’re walking into a car park. And then, it hits you – a beautiful inner-city sanctum with wooden decking, a slanted sail shielding the sun, and bespoke, funky chairs from the esteemed Studio Rygalik. You want to dwell here for a bit longer than planned: and there’s no harm in doing so. One of the Insider’s favorite wine bars, Ale Wino’s food is also top-notch

Bristol Wine Bar (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmiescie 42/44 Effortlessly evoking a real sense of history, the design is a triumph with lots of polished brass and nickel, rich wood finishes and marble floors. You feel like you’ve stepped into a film. And the wine choice is prodigious: offering a complete cruise through the wines of the Old Continent and the New World, the collection is precisely presented from behind glass cases that line the walls.

Charlotte (D6) ul. Aleja Wyzwolenia 18 (enter from pl. Zbawiciela), bistrocharlotte.com It matters not if you’re easily traumatized by the catwalk parade that is Charlotte. Open from seven on weekdays, it’s the place for a morning croissant. And if you’re armed with the latest Apple technology, all the better – join the other posers at the communal table. Located on Warsaw’s most happening roundabout, there’s no better place to indulge a hangover with a spot of eavesdropping than inside this boulangerie/wine bar.

Dekant Wine Bar (E3) ul. Zajęcza 15, dekant.com.pl Set inside

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an attractive open space, the opening of Dekant is a further indication of Powiśle’s shift from hipster epicenter to upscale playground (Robert Lewandowski has been spotted here!). The list comprises over 400 wines from the most prestigious producers in the world, right the way down to tiny, little vineyards you’ve probably never heard of. If the sun is out, aim for a place on their back terrace.

Dyletanci (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44, dyletanci.pl Often filled to capacity with crisp, modern citizens that radiate confidence, join them on green banquettes illuminated with Tom Dixon lamps. The wine list is fitting of the A-list, and aside from exceptional international choices, also includes interesting wines from the proprietor’s own label – a frankly superb Polish brand called Dom Bliskowice.

Enoteka (D1) Rynek Nowego Miasta 13/15, enotekapolska.pl It’s the wine bar New Town has been waiting for ever since… the old Enoteka closed. The eagerly awaited return brings with it a new location – right on the corner of New Town Square and a wine list from curated by importer Maciej Bomboł.

Hoża (D5) ul. Hoża 25a, hoza.warszawa.pl You’ll probably know Hoża as the home of steak. But what is meat without wine? complementing the Argentine-inspired cooking is a wine list particularly dense with reds.

Kieliszki Na Hożej ul. Hoża 41, kieliszkinahozej.pl Already celebrated for their operation on Próżna, this latest branch continues in much the same vein: classy interiors, a prime location on one of Warsaw’s few surviving pre-war streets and a casual bistro vibe matched up against a glorious Italian influenced wine list. The concise food menu connects local Polish to classic French and adds an interesting modern twist.

Mielżyński Wine Bar (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, mielzynski.pl Robert Mielżyński, a Canadian-born oenologist, awakened Warsaw’s love affair with the grape when he launched Mielżyński in 2004, and it continues to serve as the accepted

benchmark to which all wine bars aspire.

Their cause is amply boosted by a fine selection of bites to accompany the superlative wine offer. Find it in a pared down warehouse that emanates casual city cool.

Mielzynski Wine Bar (G9) ul. Czerska 12, mielzynski.pl After three years in the pipeline Warsaw’s second outpost of Mielżyński is everything you’d expect: the concise menu is never too complex while the exciting wine choice presents over 500 labels. This vibrant warehouse-style space promises much.

Nowina ul. Nowogrodzka 4, nowina.waw.pl Though only opened towards in January, Nowina have thus far chalked up a bundle of five star reviews. Helping in the achievement of that has been a striking interior that catches the eye from across the street – restored pre-war tiling, glinting surfaces, a world map rendered from corks and an engaging reddish glow all do their bit to lend Nowina the kind of atmosphere that’s missing in most local wine bars. Add to that an exciting international menu and a selection of over 400 wines and you have an absolute winner.

WinKolekcja (E10) ul. Olkuska 7, winkolekcja.pl The selection of New World wines is exceptional, though classicists are also catered for via an extensive choice of Spanish, French and Italian wines. Their highly recommended restaurant provides further reason to linger inside a design that has the routine look of a club class lounge.

Winosfera (B3) ul. Chłodna 31, winosfera.pl Once a pre-war cinema, now a stunning wine bar / store with one of the most impressive collections in Poland: an expense account comes in handy.

Equally notable is the ambitious fine dining menu of Jakub Adamczyk. Żurawina (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34, zurawina.eu Lacking in intimacy, this large white room gets criticized for its jarring artwork and staffing blips – in the world of wine it’s important the customer can connect to the staff: here, we felt like we were joining the SS. But both food and wine score highly, and they’ve earned a staunchly loyal following that includes high flying types and Paris Hilton wannabes that carry yappy dogs in their bag.

nightlife NEW & NOTABLE

ROZRYWKI (ul. Mazowiecka 6/8) After a couple of years during which it had started to feel a little like yesterday’s man, ul. Mazowiecka has had a resurgence and its sense of self restored. Playing a part in this comeback is Rozrywki, a svelte bar with a clientele that values the importance of looking its best. Beyond the immediate appeal of the beauties and wannabes, the cocktails are the chief enticement.

bars & pubs The Alchemist (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 3, thealchemist.pl The great British tradition of ‘a pint after work’ is gathering steam in PL, thanks in part to places like this. Lively and cosmopolitan, The Alchemist’s broad ranging appeal – not to mention ‘self-service beer wall’ – makes it a winning gathering point for 5 p.m. drinks.

Beirut (D5) ul. Poznańska 12 As hip as ever, Beirut has walls dusted with cult album covers, documentary posters and witty graffiti inspired

by Banksy. Busy in the day, and absolutely packed at night, order unconventional beers from androgynous staff standing behind a sandbag bar decorated with silver hand grenades and a model tank.

Bollywood Lounge (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, bollywoodlounge.pl Bollywood in full swing is quite a sight – find banging beats and an energetic club atmosphere complimented by the pungent pleasures of their sheesha pipes. The Sunday karaoke sessions are a hoot.

Bubbles (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, bubbles.com.pl Despite sounding like a 90s small town nightclub, Bubbles is in fact a worthy place of note: a small, warm venue with a slow food menu and a design that incorporates lots of upturned crates and dusty bottles.

Champagne is the main draw here, with many labels that are exclusive to Poland.

Some come with terrifying prices, but on the whole the price points are widely accessible: wine from zł. 10 and a flute of champers from zł. 29.

UKRYTE (ul. Szeroki Dunaj 13) Found within an Old Town gatehouse, there’s a certain magic to the setting that fades a little on entry: a largely barren interior awaits, one rather simply comprised of dark colored walls and screechy wooden stools – without a crowd it feels bereft of soul and spirit. Persevere, because visit on the right night and drinkers are rewarded by a super relaxed bar that feels friendly, international and even a little arty. A great locally-inspired menu and beers from the respectable Inne Beczki give Ukryte another push in the right direction.

Central Bar (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki) Downers include annoying piped music, chairs bolted to the ground and the overriding feeling you are, in fact, drinking in the middle of a food court. And why aren’t there any ashtrays outside? Only once you get your head around all of that can you start appreciating the Central Bar: the beer (supplied by Bierhalle) is fine, and you do get the buzzy sense that you’re in the middle of something that’s captured Warsaw’s imagination. www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / nightlife Grizzly Gin Bar (D5) ul. Wilcza 46 More prone than ever to global trends, news that the international gin revival has hit Warsaw comes as no real bombshell.

The style in Grizzly is dark and hip with the design largely limited to moody lighting, some witty murals and a bank of outdated TV sets, while the smoking room is great for accidental meetings with curious characters. Serving their own ‘Grizzly lager’ as well as numerous cocktails based on different craft gins, it’s fast becoming the latest night in the area.

Hard Rock Cafe (C5) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), hardrockcafe.pl Full Throttle cocktails, lively staff and a classic rock soundtrack: the energy of HRC is hard to find fault with. And on the rare occasion there is a lull in the night, use the opportunity to sniff around memorabilia that includes a black leather number once worn by Madonna.

Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, legendsbar.pl Legends is slowly achieving legendary status amongst the expats and Anglophiles. Their cause is helped by touches like a segregated smoking room, proper darts board, Sky Sports and a traditional menu that’s as authentically English as the Downing Street cat. Presiding over it all is Graham, a seasoned expat and Everton nut.

Między Nami (D4) ul. Bracka 20, miedzynamicafe.com With 18 years of service under their belt you may think of Między Nami as being an antiquated has-been. Not so. Haunted by a mix of media types and local characters, this hip white piece of post-commie Warsaw has an enduring, almost timeless appeal.

Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’ (D4) Enter from ul. Nowy Świat 26 Approximately twenty bars occupy a series of low-budget prefabricated cabins, presenting possibly the highest density of bars in the capital: in summer, it feels like one big street party.

Adding to the gentle sense of confusion comes the realization that so many bars look the same – accessed through clattery, barred doors, visitors walk into what can only be described as murk. Klaps, with its dildo beer taps and phallic walls, is probably the most well-known of the lot.

Plan B (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), planb. pl Plan B is the very essence of dive Warsaw.

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Weekends pass by in a raucous blur, with the party spilling out under the colonnades outside – it helps to look like a DJ, but in truth everyone is welcome. The hangover from this shabby, grubby bar is traumatic.

Stixx (A4) Pl. Europejski 4A, tel. 22 340 4040, stixx.pl It takes a moment to allow the sheer magnitude of Stixx sink in. Having adjusted to the wow factor of the interior – which can best be described as cosmopolitan-industrial – most retreat to the long, all weather deck which in itself is quite something: the aesthetics are such that a cocktail party on an oligarch’s yacht comes to mind. There aren’t many better places for a drink when the roof is rolled back and the stars twinkle down.

W Oparach Absurdu (F1) ul. Ząbkowska 6, oparyabsurdu.pl Hidden under Persian rugs, velvety drapes and reclaimed antiques, some still refer to it as The Spider Bar in reference to the giant tarantula that once hung from the wall.

There’s an air of louche 60s living here, and it gets weirder when bands with names like the Bum Bum Orchestra enter to play trumpets amongst vodka-tipping guests.

Warszawa Powiśle (E4) ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B, warszawapowisle.pl The prime months for this former ticket booth arrive each summer when the deckchairs outside provide ample opportunity for the city’s young and fashionable to gather in an almost carnival-like atmosphere. Once seen as the hipster Center of Power, it still maintains great popularity with whiskered, tattooed sorts.

clubs Klubo (D3) ul. Czackiego 3/5, klubo.pl You can almost feel this club’s legendary status as you, descend down into their basement. Dark, vibrant and decorated in a way that evokes the glory years of the 80s and 90s, tip down their house cocktails inside and writhe alongside other clubbers in a series of deep reddish rooms banging out house, disco and R&B sounds.

Luztro (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, luztro.pl Feeling naughty? Luztro enjoys a reputation for libertine behavior and illicit pharmaceuticals.

Dark, grim and grotty, this after party stalwart gets going at about 4 a.m. on weekends, when troglodyte club creatures emerge zombie-like to dance way past sunrise. Jaw grinding, rib rattling electro has never felt better.

No Comment (F4) Al. 3 Maja 16/18A, Most Poniatowskiego Found in one of the towers that prop up Most Poniatowskiego, a ‘sense of unknown’ manifests itself inside this weekend’s only club, a bi-level area whose small size adds to the air of mystery and exclusivity. Away from the prying eyes of Joe Public, find glittery, local celebs getting down and naughty.

Smolna 38 (E4) ul. Smolna 38 One of the most secretive clubs there is: operating a strict no-pictures policy, being caught taking a selfie is a crime punished by expulsion – and how good is that! Attracting a hardcore crowd, its a place of real sounds: forget the joke DJs most clubs settle for, Smolna’s agenda has thus far included the likes of Simian Mobile Disco and Ellen Allien.

The View (C4) ul. Twarda 18, theview.pl Sat on top of the Spektrum Tower this bar/club has reinvented the whole concept of going out in Warsaw.

A truly world-class venture, the open-air deck on the 32nd floor offers striking views of the cityscape, first rate cocktails and an international rotation of DJs. No other club nails the champagne lifestyle with quite the same panache.

cocktails 6 Cocktails (E5) ul. Mokotowska 57 If 6 Cocktails has the feeling of hanging around someone’s flat that’s because, actually, you are. This posh Mokotowska apartment has been re-adapted as an exclusive bar frequented by leggy models and society figures: the parties are

listings / nightlife nuts! Unmarked from street level, to enjoy the inventive cocktails message them on FB and await your invite.

THE MOST

Bar & Books (D2) REFRESHINGLY CIVILIZED LACES TO MEET ul. PWąski Dunaj 20, barandbooks.pl Seen CIGARS & WHISKY through ≈a thin autumnal mist, this white WINE & CHAMPAGNE townhouse radiates warmth: lights glimmer, ≈ COCKTAILS & CUSINE piano music tinkles. Wood-paneled and lined ≈ TASTINGS with leather-bound tomes, there’s a sense ≈ PRIVATE EVENTS of dignity ≈ that’s unique to Warsaw’s cocktail LOCATION SHOOTS scene.

There’s humor, as well, courtesy of PODWALE BARof ANDchimps BOOKS portraits togged out like 18th Wąski Dunaj 20, 00-256 Warsaw Tel.: +48 gentry.

225.599.199 century Similar to a members’ only Mayfair bar, find ‘classic with a twist’ cocktails mixed and muddled by the sort of charming bartenders you’d trust serving Bond. While bills can become weighty affairs, no one regrets the spend – plus, you can smoke here as well!

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Charlie ul. Mokotowska 39 Arguably the best and boldest opening of the year, Charlie presents thrilling cocktails inside an interior that wouldn’t be amiss in Manhattan: there’s even a fountain! Being rich and pretty is almost a compulsory criteria.

Coctail Bar Max (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, barmax.pl Can you trust a cocktail bar that can’t even spell the word? In this case, yes! Max looks bright, cheerful and fully loaded for the sun, and also comes with a smoking alcove in the back stuffed with whisky and cigars. The cocktails are the main affair though, and here they’re extravagant efforts that resemble a tropical jungle in miniature form. Very popular with types that aspire to become footballers’ wives, etc.

Karowa 31 (D3) ul. Karowa 31, warsawbarproject.com Warsaw’s original speakeasy grants access via a retractable door disguised as a VHS collection – how cool is that!? Maze-like in

layout, the retro-looking Karowa 31 unravels to reveal a series of chambers concealed in shadow, though for all that the cocktails are the real draw: masterful creations composed by a dreadlocked Dane called Bram.

Lazy Dog (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, lazy-dog.pl While Lazy Dog isn’t exactly new, it does feel like it’s turned over a new leaf – what was a good cocktail bar, it seems, has grown to become a very good one. Seeking inspiration from some of the world’s wackiest artworks, the cocktails aren’t just beautiful to look at, but damn good to drink... If there’s a highlight, that’s the ‘Fight Between A Tiger & A Buffalo’, a spicy, tropical creation complete enveloped in a thick billowing mist.

Panorama Sky Bar (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, panoramabar.pl The Marriott’s 40th floor Panorama has had a couple of incarnations: first, as a glitzy Dynasty throwback, and then, more recently, as something that could have passed for a

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listings / nightlife business class airport lounge. Now it’s been reinvented once again, only this time successfully: find slick, vibrant interiors redolent of London matched up with modern cocktails and twinkling views.

Pies Czy Suka (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8A, piesczysuka.com Monochrome gun metal grey colors are offset by a young crowd attired in red shoes, pink trousers and blue headphones. This clean, concrete space is speckled with plaster moldings of reindeer heads, and excels on

the cocktail front. Order from an iPad menu, before settling back for cocktails made using mad scientist, molecular techniques that involve foam, vapor, beakers and other things you’d usually find in Professor Yaffle’s lab. Certainly not as ‘mature’ as the new breed of cocktail bars, but definitely more fun.

The Roots (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 11 Cluttered with shiny props and pieces rescued from the early days of cocktail making, The Roots could pass for a Victorian era curiosity shop. Looking past the eccentricities that comprise the interior, it’s become famous on account of irresistible drinks mixed and muddled by dapper experts that aren’t so much barmen as they are craftsmen.

Weles (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 11, welesbar.pl A swing of the door takes visitors plunging down a blacked-out stairwell and into a basement that emerges from the darkness like a decadent Tsarist relic: glinting chandeliers glimmer over deep leather sofas, their subtle light casting a glow over an immaculate clientele. Befitting the venue, the artisanal cocktails are a work of elaborate craftsmanship, and incorporate everything from elite liquors to strips of bacon and flower petals.

At weekends this place rocks when DJ Trent gets onto the decks.

Woda Ognista (E5) ul. Wilcza 8, wodaognista.com Woda Ognista evokes the jazzy air of a Chicago, Prohibition era speakeasy with a seriously stylish interior that includes a colossal collection of vintage cocktail shakers that glint behind glass. The drinks themselves, rattled up by dapper gents in braces and flat caps, are split between house creations and reprised classics from a bygone era.

Some are more successful than others, and it’s a credit to the staff that they’re willing to take comments on board and adapt their precious recipes to suit fussy tastes.

10% discount* VALID TILL JUNE 30TH, 2017. FOR PURCHASES OVER 150 PLN. WI/III-VI

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Zorza (D4) ul. Żurawia 6/12, zorzabistro.pl Slotted inside what was once Café 6/12, Zorza embellishes the venue’s ascetic PRL style with licks of art deco: it’s an unlikely marriage that manages to work. Do your pecking, picking, sipping and supping on an outdoor terrace set-up that encourages mingling and interaction.

craft beer Artezan Pub (D4) ul. Moniuszki 1A Browar Artezan’s flagship pub is a compulsory visit for all beer aficionados. The beer is the magnetic force with eight taps blasting out pacesetter tipples from this brewery’s portfolio. The Pacific is the Insider’s all-time favorite.

BrewDog Warszawa (D4) ul. Widok 8 BrewDog don’t get everything right: at one stage last summer, it seemed like they were upping their prices every other weekend. But while it’s true it’s not the cheapest pint in Warsaw, there’s a feel good factor here that manifests itself inside interiors that rock and beers that go BOSH. Of all the craft beer bars that have swept into Warsaw, this is the one that feels the most international, inclusive and bloody good fun.

Chmielarnia Marszałkowska (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16, chmielarnia.waw. pl With Warsaw’s tap bars all falling over each other to stock the latest tap beers, your options are frequently similar from bar to bar – which is when a good fridge becomes important. Not only can you actually see into Chmielarnia’s, you’ll find it housing the most exciting brews trending around the globe: from the edgy Bermondsey breweries to the Scandinavian giants. Broaden your horizons!

Cuda Na Kiju (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, cudanakiju.pl Where it all began. Summer catches Warsaw’s original tap bar at its best, with the courtyard of the former Communist Party HQ now home to an entirely different kind of party: on occasions find food trucks and film screenings, and all other times just a massive crowd getting sloshed on 15 types of tap beer. But even outside the sweaty months Cuda is worth the visit: drink inside a modern, glass cube that’s refreshing contemporary.

Cyderia (D5) ul. Poznańska 16 Conceived by the management of Plan B, this bar comes with an immaculate, moody interior designed by the acclaimed Projekt Praga: find coal black crates suspended from the ceiling and a zinc-topped bar made from slabs of oak. Looking cool and current, it’s not just the aesthetic touches and cosmetic kisses that make Cyderia special. The real cause for visiting is a choice of seven or so ciders,

listings / nightlife mainly sourced from small Polish farmsteads and artisan producers.

when Parkingowa takes on the look of an end-of-term street party.

Drugie Dno ul. Nowogrodzka 4 To plug into the pounding heart of Warsaw’s craft beer scene, look no further than Nowogrodzka. Joining the ranks of the street’s multi-tap bars is Drugie Dno, a three-level space that’s been themed to evoke the look of a disused power station.

Sporting rugged brickwork and a scuffed style, the industrialized look has been amped up to the max through the use of steel girders, vintage voltage meters and toilets disguised as elevator shafts.

Piw Paw na Foksal (E4) ul. Foksal 16, piwpaw.pl If the original Piw Paw was marketed as a ‘hyper tap’ then what’s their sister on Foksal? There’s 97 taps (!!) though one gets the sense its more about numbers than quality – we’ve seen Beck’s, for Pete’s sake. Getting service can be a nightmare, and while there’s a smoking room, it’s got the warmth and ambience of a night down the police station.

Jabeerwocky (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 12, taproom.pl Steeped in multinational drunken babble, the super sociable Jabbers is famed for its innovative beer selection and convivial atmosphere.

Mark it down as an absolute must-visit, especially if you’re a fan of stout and cider.

Kufle i Kapsle (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 25, kufleikapsle.pl All levels of drinkers are catered for in this raw-looking space, from those ready to pay nosebleed prices for beers with spaceships on the label, right the way down to novices taking their first baby steps in the world of craft booze. Interiors are balanced with the pre-war heritage of the place, and are thick with noise, clamor and the spell of spillage.

Unisex toilets, meaning there’s usually one idiotka putting a spanner in the queue code.

Kufle i Kapsle Żoliborz ul Popiełuszki 19/21, kufleikapsle.pl While Nowogrodzka is the beating heart of the tap bar trend, not even the suburbs are safe from this flourishing movement. By expanding out to Żoliborz, Kufle i Kapsle have cornered a captive market. There’s just seven taps here, but they’re a magnificent seven – find a great representation of Polish craft draught, not to mention a satisfying selection of international bottles. The moderate size works it in its favor, lending it a neighborly atmosphere which sees first-timers quickly converted into returning regulars.

Piw Paw (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34 (enter from ul.

Parkingowa), piwpaw.pl We don’t like: the sweaty toilet, strange smells nor the scrum at the bar. We do like: the 24hr opening hours, humongous fridge and 50+ taps. Seen in the light it’s a little depressing, so visit at night

Same Krafty (D1) ul. Nowomiejska 10, samekrafty.pl Occupying two narrow, rugged rooms, Same Krafty have rescued Old Town from big beer brands peddling piss. Offering artisan alternatives, this intimate bar has become a magnet for those looking to explore the more subversive side of Polish brewing. That this happens in such an amicable venue makes it all the better, particularly in winter when drinkers squash in to seek solace from the frostbitten streets.

Same Krafty Vis-à-vis (D1) ul. Nowomiejska 11/13, samekrafty.pl You wouldn’t have thought it a year back, but reasons keep emerging to drink in the Old Town. When it comes to pubs, Same Krafty top the list, but try getting served at peak drinking time. So here’s some brilliant news: they’ve now opened another bar opposite.

Pass under a dragon’s head before stepping into a supremely friendly room with ten taps, a strong bottle line-up and an atmospheric side chamber.

Spiskowcy Rozkoszy (D5) ul. Żurawia 47/49, spiskowcy.pl The ground floor is an intimate space with lots of yet-to-be-famous beers and junky, antique furniture that reminds of the Boho hangouts in Kraków. But what was a packed, little bar is now a packed, big bar with the opening of the basement: find a labyrinth of rooms and psychedelic toilets with pulsating lights – you soon wonder who spiked your drink. And oh, the drinks.

for gentlemen Playhouse (B3) Al. Solidarności 82A, playhouse.pl Not here gorilla gangsters on the door or pushy girls doing the rounds (“buy me drinky drinky”).

Instead, Playhouse models itself on the top

class mega clubs such as Spearmint Rhino, and the result is a subterranean space removed from the sleaze and murk usually associated with the industry. But you want to know what the girls are like, yeah? Let the fact askmen.com voted it their favorite strip in the world speak for itself.

live music 12on14 Jazz Club (D6) ul. Noakowskiego 16, 12on14club.com Warsaw has a rich tradition of jazz, so you have to sometimes wonder, just where the hell are all the jazz bars? In 12on14’s case, down a courtyard and through a side entrance. Dark, smart and sophisticated, here’s a place that’s fitted out with framed portraits of sax tooting masters as a well-stocked bar area decorated with quotes from jazz legends. Open from Tuesday till Saturday, evenings see local and international musicians take to the stage.

Chwila (B3) ul. Ogrodowa 31/35 Entered under a red, cabaret-style awning, Chwila is a reject factory space turned good. Furry cushions, patchwork quilts and student art vie for attention alongside iron girders and industrial leftovers inside what is becoming known as one of the top alternative music venues this side of the river.

Eufemia (D3) Krakowskie Przedmieście 5 (enter via ul. Niżyńskiego), klubojadalniaeufemia. blogspot.com Eufemia unwraps into a series of side rooms furbished with VHS tapes, student artwork and furniture looted from your grandparents dining room. The claustrophobic atmosphere lends itself well to intimate gigs that see everything from improvised instrumentals to bands called Graveyard Drug Party.

Hydrozagadka ul. 11 Listopada 22 Set out in the wildlands of Praga, consider Hydrozagadka as the heart of unforced cool. Known for its alternative music scene, the low-ceiling and tight, crowded nature of it generate an electrifying atmosphere where the audience and band become one. Walking a fine line between industrial and straight out decrepit, the atmosphere is second to none: drinks flow, strangers meet and music smashes out: you can feel something special happening here. www.warsawinsider.pl

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shopping accessories Bursztynek Rynek Starego Miasta 4/6, bursztynek.co The largest amber jewellery store in Warsaw, though in addition to that visitors can also purchase unique amber-related souvenirs as well as more classic gifts associated with Poland.

Hard Rock Cafe ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), hardrockcafe.pl No wardrobe is complete without the iconic Hard Rock t-shirt! Find the Warsaw-stamped version available here, along with other extras for the all American look.

CANDLES & DIFFUSERS GALILU (ul. Mokotowska 63, galilu.pl) A dazzling choice of home fragrances, diffusers and scented candles from luxury international brands such as Miller et Bertaux, Frederic Malle and Diptyque. Luxury has a price: a gold Nazareth candle from Cire Tridon will set you back a cool zł. 899.

MY SENSE SOY CANDLES (ul. Mokotowska 55, mysense.pl) Utilizing the purest organic soy wax and cotton, the candles at My Sense guarantee that once lit no harmful toxins are released into the air. Choose from candles with such names as Summer Kiss, Vanilla Temptation, Rose Garden and Pure Being.

SEN NOCY LETNIEJ (ul. Oleandrów 5, sennocyletniej.pl) Humidifiers, aroma diffusers, candles and oils from Alba 1913 inside a highly quirky store that brings to mind the neo-Gothic works of Edgar Allan Poe. Find also an array of top fragrances from elite, little-known brands.

MUJI (ul. Mysia 3, muji.com/pl) This Japanese chain has nailed the home decor market with best-selling items including ultrasonic diffusers and a wide range of essential oils. While you’re in the Mysia 3 store, do also check Nap to see what they might have in-store.

HORN & MORE (ul. Chopina 5B, hornandmore.com) Candles come from self-appointed ‘modern alchemists’ DL & Co. and include such unqiue scents as Champagne Blush (zł. 180) and Chilled Vodka (zł. 210). For a splurge, how about the Cammei Bianco from Fornasetti – yours for zł. 595.

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HOS&me ul. Mokotowska 63, mokotowska63.com Luxury jewelry and the best in the biz. In stock: high end treasures from Nialaya, Lene Bjerre Design, Ti Sento, Christensen and Dryberg/Kern.

Minty Dot ul. Bracka 5, mintydot.pl Top quality Polish jewelry composed using gold, silver and natural stone. Contemporary in style, these are accessories that radiate class and craftsmanship while at the same time exuding a subtle sense of timeless romance.

Pingle Optyk ul. Hoża 40 A collection of hand-selected eyewear that is serious in terms of quality control, but entirely whimsical when it comes to design. Yes, you’ve got your ubiquitous Ray Ban classics, but you’ve also got the electric blue version. You’ve got your Chanel and YSL classics, then there are the leather-trimmed frames from Paul Smith and many more funky models straight from Paris.

Pracownia Szczotek ul. Poznańska 26, khaja.pl Opened in 1952, this bespoke brush store has been passed down from grandfather to father and then onto son. On offer: everything from paintbrushes to moustache combs to hairbrushes.

And the owner is a character as well: “I don’t have time for Facebook,” he says, “it would get in the way of my tango lessons!”

listings / shopping Schubert ul. Piwna 12/14, ul. Piwna 26, ul. Świętojańska 11, worldofamber.pl Rings, bracelets, necklaces and watches produced using the finest Baltic amber. Or for a unique gift, how about an amber chess set or an amber cigarette lighter?

Non’chalant ul. Koszykowa 67, nonchalant.pl Playing up to the ideals of classic Italian and British style, Non’chalant present an array of accessories aimed at the dapper gentleman: high quality ties, cravats, pocket squares, socks and scarves.

fashion

Pan Tu Nie Stal Koszykowa 35/40, pantuniestal.com Polish design at its peak: fashion is prominent, but there’s also interesting bitsy things such as aprons, jam jars, notebooks and mugs – all with a defiantly Polish twist. Eccentric, unusual and emphatically on-trend, it’s a must-visit.

Ania Kuczyńska ul. Mokotowska 61 Ania Kuczyńska is becoming well known for her highly fashionable, minimalist clothing designs. The store also carries adorable baby clothes and various accessories.

EM Cashmere Boutique ul. Szczygla 8, emcashmere.pl Available brands include Allude Cashmere, Annette Görtz, Studiorundholz and Sarah Pacini with 30-40% discounts on last year’s collections, and up to 70% on those of previous years.

A truly beautiful find with the clothes offer supplemented with shoes and accessories.

Frank A ul. Natolińska 3, franka.pl The interior is painfully chic and the clothing effortlessly elegant with a minimalist edge. Stocks major brands that you can’t find anywhere else in Warsaw, from handbags from Pauric Sweeney, perfectly fashioned tees from American Vintage and ballet flats from Bloch.

Moliera 2 Boutique ul. Moliera 2, moliera2.com Brands: Alexandre Birman, Alexandre Vauthier, Anya Hindmarch, Aquazzura, Balmain, Beach Bunny, Buscemi, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Francesco Russo, Gianvito Rossi, Herve Leger, Isabel Marant, Jimmy Choo, Kenzo, Kotur, Maison Michel, Moncler, One Teaspoon, Simonetta Ravizza, Tod’s, Tory Burch, Valentino, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon.

Mostrami.pl mostrami.pl Known to insiders as the ‘Polish Net-a-porter’, the online Mostrami portal showcases a whole breed of Polish fashion talent: Blessus, Justyna Chrabelska, Łukasz Jemioł, and Zuo Corp, as well as the rock stars of the local scene such as Kupisz, Zień and Plich. Around 100 designers to choose from, with prices straddling the wide spectrum of purchasing power.

know Sabotage as one of the places to buy funky deconstructed denim and sportswear pieces. Here you’ll find a wide array of unique clothes, hats, belts and handbags in a variety of fabrics and styles that hail straight from New York, London and Tokyo.

malls & department stores Arkadia Al. Jana Pawła II 82, tel. 22 323 6767, arkadia.com.pl Galeria Mokotów ul. Wołoska 12, tel. 22 541 4141, galeriamokotow.com.pl

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, plactrzechkrzyzy.com Brands: Beach Bunny, Buscemi, Canada Goose, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Dsquared 2, Christian Louboutin, Fay, Gianvito Rossi, Hogan, Kenzo, Kotur, Moncler, Mr& Mrs Italy, One Teaspoon, Ralph Lauren, Simonetta Ravizza, Tom Ford, Tory Burch, Valentino, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon.

Childrenswear: Burberry Children, Dsquared2 Kids, Kenzo Kids, Moncler Kids, Ralph Lauren Kids, Tod’s Kids.

Ptasia 6 ul. Ptasia 6, ptasia6.pl A unique ladies concept store showcasing the works of both emerging and established independent Polish fashion labels such as Eva Grygo, Confashion, Horror! Horror!, Kasia Miciak and Polanka.

Reykjavik District ul. Burakowska 15, tel. 501 399 222, reykjavikdistrict.com Chic, well-cut menswear for all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal.

Risk. Made In Warsaw ul. Szpitalna 9, riskmadeinwarsaw.com Founded in 2011, Risk like to keep things local with both the design and production all done in Warsaw. Mixing modern shapes with expert tailoring, the idea was to create a look that’s both comfortable yet chic. That they’ve been featured in the likes of Vogue and Elle suggests that this target has been accomplished.

Sabotage ul. Burakowska 5/7 Those in-the-know

Klif House of Fashion ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4500 klif. pl Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has everything from the excellent Alma supermarket to top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko.

Plac Unii ul. Puławska 2, tel. 22 204 0499, placunii. pl Warsaw’s latest mall counts Armani Jeans, Liu-Jo and Pandora amongst its upmarket tenants.

Mysia 3 ul. Mysia 3, tel. 603 767 574, mysia3.pl Hip department store that’s seen a few tenants come and go, yet has remained on the cutting edge in spite of it all. Set in Poland’s former censorship office, the line-up includes Scandinavian fashion in Cos, shoes from My Paris, unconventional fashion from Nenukko and more.

Vitkac Wolf Bracka Vitkac, ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7313, likusconceptstore.pl Vitkac was made for with a credit card blitz in mind. Poland’s first luxury department store gathers the world’s top designers under one roof, with brands including Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton, Stella McCartney and Rick Owens. And that’s the tip of the iceberg. Finish with dinner in the top floor Concept 13.

Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59, tel. 22 222 2200, zlotetarasy.pl Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Jatomi Health and Fitness Club. www.warsawinsider.pl

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family activities The Little Gym ul. Bruzdowa 56 & ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 45, tel. 22 842 0728, thelittlegym.eu Expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-to-child ratio, original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. Not only a great place for children, but tailored to a comfortable and relaxing stay for parents as well.

education preschools American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel.

22 702 85 00,

ART IN THE CAPITAL CITY On any given free afternoon, I am the dad who will usually suggest “let’s go to the museum”. But I’ve learned that a 4-year old would rather go to the playground and that compromise is not in their vocabulary. So I decided to stop proposing museums over and over again and instead have settled on gentle hints: for instance, when walking to pre-school during the week, I would say that there’s a new mermaid exhibition that is opening at the Museum of Modern Art by the Wisła this weekend. So when Saturday morning rolled around I asked my daughter what she wanted to do. Quick as a flash she responded, “the mermaid parade is this weekend, right?” I reminded her that it wasn’t a parade but actually an exhibition, to which she rolled her eyes in a ‘whatever’ way.

The plan was to pop along for the grand opening of the museum, a pavilion designed by Austrian architect Adolf Krischanitz and which will house the new-look gallery until it opens properly on Pl. Defilad in 2020.

Unfortunately, it turned out that the rest of Warsaw had had the same idea and I quickly realized the chances of getting inside it in time for the kid’s activities were zero. The day, though, wasn’t a total loss: spotting an outdoor sculpture by Jerzy Bohdan Szumczyk involving an old Syrena car, my daughter asked the eternal question - “is that art?” I replied with my own question: “does it make you think?” Having answered no to me, I told her that the artist was probably trying to make a statement to which she responded it was probably related to smog. Pleased with making this association she set off towards the nearest waffle truck muttering “interesting” to herself. (KD)

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aswarsaw.org American School of Warsaw provides a rich, meaningful and balanced educational experience through age-appropriate activities to students aged 3 to 5. For further information and/or to visit our school, contact:admissions@aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00.

The British Primary School of Wilanów ul. Hlonda 12, bsww.pl, tel. 781 988 000 Following the National Curriculum of England and Wales, this is the first School in Poland subject to the inspection of the UK Independent School Inspectorate. Pupils receive British and, upon request, Polish reports/diplomas. The school follows a closed admissions policy and limits enrollment of one nationality to below 50% of each class starting from Year 1.

The British School Early Years Centre ul. Dąbrowskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646 7777, british@thebritishschool. pl, thebritishschool.pl The Early Years Foundation Stage is where a lifetime of learning begins. The British School, Warsaw provides EYFS classes from Pre-nursery

listings / family (age 30 months) to Reception (5 years old).

Children develop quickly and their Early Years practitioners aim to do all they can to help your child have the best possible start in life and become a lifelong learner.

The Canadian School of Warsaw Preschool ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, preschool@canadian-school. pl, canadian-school.pl Welcoming students from the ages of 2.5 to 6 years old, currently 45% of our admissions are international students.

Our dedicated, IB-trained teachers deliver an innovative program (PYP) in English designed for modern world needs. Our program offers a combination of Literacy, Maths, Social Studies, Science, Physical Education, Art, Music & Rhythmics, French and Polish classes. We also provide a wide variety of after-school clubs. The pre-school is located in the heart of Mokotów, in the vicinity of Park Dreszera in a large villa with a wonderful garden.

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations)

Warsaw Montessori School ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, warsawmontessori.edu. pl Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have 3 green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy.

Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. Call to make an appointment to tour any of the 3 schools.

International Trilingual School of Warsaw ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa

14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/ saint-exupery.pl Established in 1994, and formerly known as Ecole Antoine de Saint Exupery, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fill-immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French.

Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China.

The English Playhouse ul. Pływiańska 14a, tel. 22 843 9370, office open 8:00-16.00, www.tep.edu.pl The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children

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listings / family from 12 months up till six-years-old. For more info or to arrange a tour of the pre-school or nursery call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email: jnowak@theenglishplayhouse. com Happy Montessori House Warsaw Montessori Pre-school, ul. Rumiana 14, tel. 22 423 50 75, mob. 697 060 504, open 7.30-17:00, hmh.com.pl The Happy Montessori House offers part-time and fulltime places for children aged between 2 to 6 years, as well as toddler-focused activities (from 18 months to 3 years) centered around movement, sensorial stimulation, storytelling, singing and socialising.

Maple Tree Montessori ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, mapletreemontessori.pl Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). Find them located in the Wilanów district of Warsaw, in a house safely nestled into the end of a quiet street.

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Montessori Academy for International Children ul. Królewicza Jakuba 36 (Wilanów), open Mon-Fri 8:00-16:15, ul. Sadowa 4 (Konstancin), Open 8:00-16:45, tel. 502 315 022, montessoriacademy.eu An English-speaking pre-school (16 months to 6 years of age) with two locations. The school’s policy is to comply with Montessori standards, using the Montessori Method in English. The school’s philosophy is based on the joy of learning, which comes from discovering and furthering the individual development of each child.

Primrose Bilingual Preschool ul. Bernardyńska 16A lok U7, tel. 22 415 8500, primrose.edu.pl Following the ‘immersion’ method, each class has two teachers – one Polish-speaking, the other English.

Through this children have all-day contact with different languages, absorbing them in everyday situations. In accordance with the hands-on methodology, children also take part in daily workshops ranging from kitchen science to art and craft classes.

Trilingual Pre-school and Nursery “Three Languages” Center ul. Karowa 14/16 lok 6 (3-6 year olds); ul.

Cicha 5 lok 1 (1-2 year olds), open Mon-Fri 7:30-18:30, tel. 517 872 682, 3languages. pl The only trilingual pre-school and nursery teaching English, Spanish and Polish through total language immersion. All educators are native speaker pre-school teachers. The

comprehensive curriculum follows American, Spanish and Polish curriculum standards.

The pre-school was awarded European Language Label in 2012.

schools American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, aswarsaw.org ASW is a premier collegepreparatory international school that offers a PK-12 curriculum, including the IB Diploma Program in Grades 11 and 12. Students are inspired and challenged every day by experienced and dedicated teachers, who provide enriching learning opportunities in a world class facility. For further information and/ or to visit our school contact: admissions@ aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00.

The British Primary School of Wilanów ul. Hlonda 12, bsww.pl, tel. 781 988 000 Following the National Curriculum of England and Wales, this is the first School in Poland subject to the inspection of the UK Independent School Inspectorate. Pupils receive British and, upon request, Polish reports/diplomas. The school follows a closed admissions policy and limits enrollment of one nationality to below 50% of each class starting from Year 1.

listings / family

The British School ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, open 8:00-16:00, british@thebritishschool. pl, thebritishschool.pl Premium international school established in 1992 by Nord Anglia Education. The curriculum is designed to provide the highest academic quality of education. They follow the English National Curriculum, adapted to the needs of their international student community: from Primary through to the Secondary Key Stages to the IGCSE examinations and a wellestablished International Baccalaureate (IB) Diploma Programme.

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations)

Warsaw Montessori School ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, warsawmontessori.edu.pl Casa dei Bambini Warsaw Montessori School are set to open their Erdkinder Montessori Middle School as of September 2016. Located at Tatrzańska 5A they promise an extraordinary opportunity for study, work and for daily living. Guided by trained specialists, students will be responsible for managing their household, operating small businesses, caring for local

flora and fauna as well as domesticated animals, taking charge of the younger children and much more. “Adolescence Program” activities, integrated with academic studies, help students discover their inner strength to meet life’s real challenges.

in English and is registered with the Polish Education Authority. French is taught as a third language. Offers a wide range of extra curricula activities and employs Psychology, Speech and Pedagogical therapy specialists.

Provision is made for additional Polish and English language support.

The English Primary ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 784 037 808, admissions@tep.edu. pl, www.tep.edu.pl The English Primary is designed specifically for children in the primary education ages, just as children experience in England but in an international community. Pupils are taken through the key learning stages so that they can achieve to the best of their ability through a fun learning experience. The Core Curriculum subjects include English, Phonics, Science, Mathematics, French, PE and Swimming, Music, Personal, Social and Health Education. The school is a member of Council of British International Schools (COBIS).

The Canadian School of Warsaw Middle School ul. Olimpijska 11, tel. 885 420 044 / 885 620 066, secretary.olimpijska@canadian-school.pl, canadian-school.pl Provides a continuation of PREIB education for 11-15 year olds.

International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create a perfect learning and creative thinking environment.

For further info, tours and school visits call or email. Also home to the Non-Public PsychoPedagogical Counseling Centre ‘Olimpia’ (tel.

885 620 066) which examines the level of mental, emotional, auditory and visual-motor functions’ development, and conducts individual and group pedagogical therapy, as well as individual psychotherapy..

The Canadian School of Warsaw Elementary School ul. Bełska 7, tel. 692 411573, admission@ canadian-school.pl, canadian-school.pl Established in 2000 and located on three campuses in Mokotów, the Canadian School delivers the International Baccalaureate PYP

International Trilingual School of Warsaw ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/ saint-exupery.pl Established in 1994, and

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listings / family formerly known as Ecole Antoine de Saint Exupery, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fill-immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French.

Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China.

Warsaw Montessori School ul. Szwoleżerów 4, tel. 22 841 3908, sylvia@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, warsawmontessori.edu.pl Focuses on the Montessori curriculum with an education based on the integration of conceptual learning and real-life experiences.

Willy Brandt Schule Warschau Św. Urszuli Ledóchowskiej 3, tel. 22 642 2705, wbs.pl One of the city’s best renowned schools offers a kindergarten as well as primary and secondary education conducted to a German curriculum.

cafes Kolonia ul. Łęczycka (corner of Ładysława), koloniaochota.pl Not just an excellent cafe, Kolonia is aslo equipped with a garden/playground.

Kolonia is the most kid-friendly (and petfriendly) place in the area, offering fresh daily specials and a staff that always welcomes you with a smile.

Nabo ul. Zakręt 8, tel. 22 842 0256, nabocafe. pl Nabo is run by a Danish couple and its light and minimalist interior – designed by those who created R20 – lends itself to every occasion. But aside from its tasty and seasonal dishes, it’s the children’s corner that is causing the biggest commotion.

shops Kopytko Mamuta ul. Boya-Żeleńskiego 2, kopytkomamuta.pl

The creation of Kopytko Mamuta plugs a gap in the market, with beautifully cobbled shoes that are, in the words of the owner Agnieszka, ‘the essence of Parisian chic’. Specializing in trendy kicks from the likes of Mercredi Apres Midi, it’s the ultimate spoiler for your budding style maven and her little Prince Charming.

Lullaby Multiple locations, lullaby.pl Jam packed with funky design and quirky gifts for your little ones. However, the exquisite clothing and designer labels do come with a hefty price tag.

Muppetshop ul. Kazimierzowska 43, tel. 532 689 212, muppetshop.pl An innovative concept store that offers a wide range of brands and products targeted at young people – babies, juniors, teenagers. The portfolio includes full-service for expecting parents as well as complete interior projects. On top of that expect a wealth of other design products from carefully selected brands.

Spring Picnic Invitation

An Invitation for children from 1 year to 15 years olds and their families to our annual Spring Picnic, Sunday, April 9th, from 1 pm to 4 pm at Warsaw Montessori School, Szwolez˙erów 4 We will also have an information table for parents age: Toddler: 1 - 2,5, Casa: 2,5 - 5, Elementary: 5-12, "Erdkinder" Middle School: 12-15 R.S.V.P to: sylvia@warsawmontessori.edu.pl Contact number: 692 099 134

Palm making

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Easter snacks

Pottery workshop

Celebrating our 18th year! www.warsawmontessori.edu.pl

Games, music

Easter egg painting

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APRIL 2017

SUNDAY 13.00 - 16.00

Animals and much more...

health & beauty gyms Artis Wellness Club ul. Klimczaka 1 (Royal Wilanów), artisclub. pl And so here we have a contender for Warsaw’s best gym. Found in Royal Wilanów, this state-of-the-art gym boasts the latest technological advances in personal fitness, as well as a massive program of courses that range from group cycling and yoga to Zumba and body combat. Personal training and deluxe spa facilities also available.

Fitness Centre at the Radisson SAS Centrum Hotel ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888 Smallish but well-regarded gym with swimming pool, sauna, gym, and group classes inside one of Warsaw’s top five stars.

FIVE TO WATCH: HAIR MILEK (Pl. Dąbrowskiego 7, ul. Hoża 40 & ul. Tamka 29, milekdesign.pl) The creation of Darek and Kasia Milek, this mini-chain of salons has acquired a stellar reputation for their work. “We treat hair styling as an art through which our customers can express themselves,” say the owners.

TEN SALON (ul. Francuska 5, tensalon.pl) Beautiful and hyper modern Ten’s interior is reflective of their general style. Acknowledged by those In The Know as one of the top salons in Warsaw, expect excellence every time.

OLD BLADE BARBERS (ul. Wilcza 28, oldblade.pl) Founded with the modern man in mind, Old Blade offers a range of services including wet shaves, beard care, traditional hair cutting and even the dimming of gray hair.

PROKOPOVICZ (ul. Mokotowska 65/5, prokopovicz.pl) “My goal is to make you smile,” says the owner, Dominika, and she’s been helping people do that for the last five years. “It’s my job to maximize all the beauty and potential of someone’s hair, and often only a little bit of creativity can make a big difference.”

BAGATELA 10 (ul. Kielecka 41, bagatela10.pl) Looking to explore and showcase the latest trends in hair styling, Bagtela’s CV is heavy with star names and model shoots. The premium quality is reflected in the prices.

Fitness Centre at the Sheraton Hotel ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6701, www.sheraton. com/warsaw The Sheraton spa features sauna, steam room and massage, while the gym comes with LCD-fitted running and cycling machines, and a dedicated cardio section. Personal training available, as are group classes covering pilates, yoga, aerobics and even ski conditioning.

Holmes Place Energy Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (C.H. Arkadia), ul.

Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), www. holmesplace.pl Making top-flight gym facilities available to the masses, the Holmes Place Energy brand offers high standard equipment, personal training and group classes. Six month membership available for approx. zł.

200 per month, though prices are subject to change. For latest details enquire direct.

Holmes Place Premium ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel), ul.

Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), holmesplace.pl Three ‘premium locations’, with the Hilton and Regent branches housing a 25-meter pool. Sauna and steam room facilities are available in all all three, as are a varied timetable of classes plus personal training. Prices, depending on the gym you choose, range from around zł.

179 to zł. 379 per month.

Little Gym ul. Bruzdowa 56, tel. 22 842 0728, www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / health & beauty www.thelittlegym.pl Targeted at children, expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-to-child ratio, original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. Englishspeaking, as well.

McFit ul. Świętokrzyska 3 (corner of Nowy Świat), tel. 22 313 1400, mcfit.com The budget European chain signals its arrival to Poland with a 2,000 sq/m studio that utilizes the latest technology as well as ‘cyber training’ programs. Open 24/7, with membership from zł. 89 per month.

Quantum Fitness ul. Piękna 15, quantumpiekna.pl Quantum takes the keep fit business to new levels. A place of quiet, understated luxury, equipment is state-of-the-art and complemented by expert trainers at the peak of their game. This is the full 24-carat gym experience, and one that comes with the added bonus of a luxury spa and a top-class physiotherapy wing.

Ride Warsaw ul. Karolkowa 30, ridewarsaw.com Around twice a day this small studio opens up to the public with group cycling classes overseen by a team of English-speaking instructors. This is not a leisurely Sunday pedal, but a high energy workout with a banging soundtrack and constant interaction with the trainer in charge.

RiverView Wellness Centre ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental), riverview.com.pl Top-class facilities and equipment, private instructors and small classes. The view from the highest pool in Europe offers a glorious panorama of the city and is almost worth the membership fee alone. Annual prices begin from around zł.

4,000.

spas & salons Dotyk SPA ul. Biały Kamień 3, tel. 22 898 7272, open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Sat 9:00-18:00, dotykspa.pl Probably the only place in Warsaw where you’ll get a facial yoga session. Going futher east, treat yourself to Japanese, Polynesian or Indian massage.

Fiuu Fiuu Day Spa ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 629 2414.

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A wonderful quick fix salon that makes use of the latest Ericson products and other top brands. Regarded as one of the top ladies day spas in the country.

Hair a Porter ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent, level -1), hair-a-porter.pl A staunch favorite among the ex-pat crowd, Hair a Porter offer the ultimate hair experience utilizing talented staff and top-quality products.

Haircology ul. Rozbrat 44A, tel. 669 780 669, haircology.pl An upmarket ecologically minded hairdresser that eschews such things as synthetic fragrances, silicon and preservatives.

Le Spa ul. Mokotowska 55, tel. 22 622 9428 This little island of peace and beauty takes you light-years away from the bustle of Warsaw.

Nail & Beauty Bar ul. Mokotowska 26, tel. 22 621 1404 A top spot for a classic manicure or pedicure – they also do lots of complicated things with gels and other hi-tech nail discoveries. Also on Elektoralna 24.

ouch!

Ouch! ul. Belwederska 32, 22 240 87 67; ul. Bonifraterska 8, tel. 22 298 11 12, ouch. pl Experts in waxing, Ouch! Aim their offer at ‘busy women looking for express treatments with lasting effects who, at the same time, appreciate a sense of intimacy’. High quality waxes, including fast and accurate epilation treatments whose effects last up to four weeks. Wax treatments for the whole body.

DEPILACJA WOSKIEM

PARDON MY FRENCH

manicure pedicure

Pardon My French ul. Belwederska 32, tel. 22 240 62 90; Bonifraterska 8, tel. 22 298 11 10; ul. Mokotowska 56, tel. 22 298 10 10, pardonmyfrench.pl Manicure and pedicure treatments with high quality lacquers and an awareness of global trends: if you need an endorsement, Paul McCartney visited when he was in Poland! Free wifi and coffee, as well as the possibility of hosting baby showers and bachelorette parties. Open from 9-8

during the week and 9-5 on Sat (with the Mokotowska branch also welcoming visitors on Sunday from 10-4).

The Pedicure Place ul. Pokorna 2, lok. u11, pedicure-place. pl A luxury pedi/manicure clinic with room for 10. All the latest OPI varnishes and over 200 colors guarantee you’ll find the latest in styling and nail care.

Quantum Clinic ul. Piękna 15, quantumpiekna.pl Using first class, pioneering methods and technology, the Quantum Clinic surpasses the norms that Warsaw has become used to. For the full Hollywood treatment, restore and replenish the body at a luxury spa devised to enhance the body and mind.

Rostowski Barber Shop ul. Koszykowa 58, rostowskibarbershop.pl A true celebration of the vintage barber shop, Rostowski have the ambiance nailed to a tee thanks to a crew that’s ready for banter and an interior replete with jack-up chairs, glinting zinc and restored floor tiles.

Retro Day Spa Al. Ujazdowskie 18/11, no. 311, tel. 22 622 03 69 Royally indulgent interiors hark back to a different century, though the treatments are all hi-tech and include packages for pregnant women among the variety of beauty offers.

Sante ul. Jagiellońska 55A, studiosante.pl The dry and wet steam room left the Insider impressed, but not as much as the ‘mood rooms’ – imagine a lunar landscape chamber with a salt-covered floor. The other, meanwhile, comes clad in minerals with recliners hewn from heated tiles. As you stare at the mantra above the mind lets go and you feel almost as if your body is moving. Amazing.

Studio Jej i Jego ul. Wiertnicza 93A, tel. 22 885 0085, .jejijego.pl Hair and beauty treatments for men and women – inc. nail care, massage, facial and body treatments.

You & You Maciej Wróblewski ul. Grzybowska 61 (Galeria Platinum Towers), tel. 606 994 226, youandyou.eu Poland’s premier hair stylist is Maciej Wróblewski, and his flagship salon fuses a personal approach with professional styling. Disappointments are unheard of.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

in the city

ON INSTAGRAM #warsawinsider

Our Instagram gofer reprises his role as the Insider’s official recorder of the beautiful, banal and bizarre side of town. For your daily dose of quirky Warsaw happenings, check out our Instagram account for yourself...

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CitySpace Age

CITYSPACE HAVE REINVENTED THE CONCEPT OF SHARED OFFICE SPACES...

S

et on the higher floors of one of Warsaw’s swankiest skyscrapers, CitySpace offer a shared office experience quite like no other. The slick, stateof-the-art office units are par the course for a development such as this, so perhaps what really separates CitySpace from the competition is the general environment: over fresh croissants, the communal kitchen hums with life each morning as workers chat about the day ahead: “any volunteers,” one asks, “for some lunchtime yoga?” Directly outside, an ad executive on a hoverboard glides down a corridor decorated with Polish poster art. The sense of community is strong here, and purposefully so.

Aiming to connect their tenants to each other, CitySpace’s semi-regular after-work drinks mixers have become mustdo events featuring guest speakers such as the GM of Uber.

More than just another office project, CitySpace have become a legitimate lifestyle choice for the aspiring professional.

For more about CitySpace visit their website: cityspace.pl

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BROUGHT TO YOU BY CITYSPACE

THE SENSE OF COMMUNITY IS STRONG HERE, AND PURPOSEFULLY SO...

CitySpace’s March mixer saw tenants and members of MBA gather for beer, networking and an audience with the GM of Uber Poland...

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listings / in the city VISITORS accomodation

Marriott Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 6306, www.warsawmarriott.com

5-Star Hotels

Regent Warsaw Hotel ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, reservations@regent-warsaw.com, www.regent-warsaw.com

Bellotto ul. Senatorska 13/15, tel. 22 829 6444, hotelbellotto.pl

The Rialto Boutique Hotel ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8700, www.rialto.pl

Bristol Hotel ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1000, bristol@luxurycollection. com, www.hotelbristolwarsaw.pl

Sheraton ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6100, www.sheraton.pl Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-warsaw

H15 Boutique ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 553 8700, info@h15ab.com, www.h15ab.com Hilton Warsaw ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555 / 800 44 11 482, www.hilton.com

Sofitel Warsaw Victoria ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8011, www.sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com

InterContinental ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com

Westin Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, www.westin.pl

Mamaison Le Régina Hotel Warsaw ul. Kościelna 12, tel. 22 531 6000, www. mamaison.com

B&B

Between Us Bed & Breakfast ul. Bracka 20, tel. 22 8285417 (from 10

w W a r s a www.city-tour.com.pl

Yellow Double-Decker Bus

Invites you to experience a panoramic tour of tourist attractions of the capital of Poland, Warsaw, in a relaxing and comfortable way.

Traveling over the course of approximately 1,5 hour, a double-decker bus will take you past many beautiful and interesting places of Warsaw, such as its interesting districts, palaces and churches, monuments and museums, parks and historical cemeteries, as well as the Jewish historical sites.

A GPS 12 language audio-guide, will give explanations and accompany you to make your ride a more adventurous, exciting and an unforgettable one.

Excellent Hop on Hop off and one trip service operates every day all year round.

5% DISCOUNT with this ad

Line approved by municipal authorities.

www.city-tour.com.pl

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+48 500 033 414

a.m. to 11p.m.), www.between-us.eu Boutique B&B ul. Smolna 14/6, tel. 22 829 4800, www.bedandbreakfast.pl

RESIDENTS relocation companies Arkpol ul. Słowikowskiego 27, arkpol.com Specialists in international ‘door-to-door’ movals, with packaging, storage and customs clearance part of the deal.

Interdean International Relocation ul. Geodetów 172, Piaseczno, tel. 22 701 7171, www.interdean.com

Move One Relocations ul. Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 8160, www.moveonerelo.com Also immigration assistance, fine art shipping, pet transport and consulting services.

Relo Planet ul. Batalinou Platerówek 3, tel. 22 658

listings / in the city 1958, reloplanet.com International, domestic and office removals, corporate and individual relocations, fine art shipping, storage, insurance, as well as a full range of assistance services (immigration, etc.).

museums Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. 22 596 4100, kopernik.org.pl Interactive, witty and surprising, Copernicus allows visitors to experience an earthquake, blast recyclable objects into space and become a mystery cracking detective.

CSW ul. Jazdów 2, csw.art.pl Situated in a baroquestyle castle the center hosts artists from all over the world. The on-site bookshop is of particular interest for artists and intellectuals.

Ongoing till January 11: Reel-Unreel (Afghan Projects 2010-2014). Polish-born artist Francis Alys presents a selection of paintings, sketches, documents and collages related to his travels around Afghanistan. Forming the centerpiece is his film, Reel-Unreel.

Dom Spotkań z Historią ul. Karowa 20, dsh.waw.pl The History Meeting House wins points for frequently excellent exhibitions that cover topics such as ‘rebuilding Warsaw’ and ‘Socialist Realist architecture.’ It won’t take longer than twenty minutes to peruse whatever exhibition is on,

but it’s still a very worthwhile diversion and one of the city’s top secrets.

Invisible Exhibition Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, niewidzialna.pl Nothing challenges the sense of sight more than a total lack of it. Confused? Head to the Invisible Exhibition to learn first-hand the challenges faced by the blind. This includes everything from crossing the road to ordering a drink in a bar.

Polin - Museum of the History of Polish Jews ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl Composed of eight galleries, each covers a different stage of local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day. Covering 4,000 sq/m, highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec synagogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical interwar Jewish Warsaw street.

National Museum Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars.

The Neon Museum ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum. org This amazing project brings together the neon lights that once illuminated the city.

Among the collection are 35 landmark signs, many of which date from the 60s and 70s.

The Royal Castle in Warsaw Pl. Zamkowy 4, zamek-krolewski.pl Meticulously restored after WWII, highlights inside include the lavishly restored 18th century royal apartments with 22 paintings by Bernardo Bellotto (known as Canaletto), the Senators’ Chamber in which the Constitution of the Third of May was signed, the biggest collection of oriental rugs in Europe in the tin-roofed palace and two remarkable Rembrandt paintings.

The Warsaw Amber Museum Rynek Starego Miasta 4/6, bursztynek.co Part of Bursztynek, a dedicated amber shop, has been turned into a curious museum detailing the history of amber.

Warsaw Rising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl Cope with the crowds to discover the definitive story of the 1944 Uprising. Exhibits range from a full-size replica of a Liberator plane, to a sewer beneath the cinema screen and a slice of bread preserved from 1944. And don’t miss the ‘City of Ruins’, a five minute 3D film which takes you on an aerial journey over devastated Warsaw.

Zachęta National Art Gallery Pl. Małachowskiego 3, zacheta.art.pl Featuring in the collection are works by ToulouseLautrec, Cezanne, Ernst and Picasso, as well as luminaries of the Polish art scene such as Tadeusz Kantor, Alina Szapocznikow, Katarzyna Kozyra and Zbigniew Libera.

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Stadion Narodowy

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A Work Of Art

No painter, before or since, has captured Warsaw in quite the same way as Bernado Bellotto... BY STUART DOWELL

B

ernado Bellotto, known by his uncle’s name Canaletto, was one of the greatest city panorama painters that Europe has ever seen. His art matured and reached a zenith during his time in Warsaw, and his painting View of Warsaw from Praga is undoubtedly the king of all views of the city. Nobody before or since has managed to capture the capital in such an epic and enrapturing way.

Perspective and composition are the keys to understanding and appreciating Bellotto’s genius. Let’s start by finding the perspective point on the Praga side of the river. In fact, the master painter helps us to do this with his great artistic joke: he’s painted himself in the bottom-left corner in the act of painting. Look closer at the canvas and, propped up by courtiers, you can make him out under the huge tree towering over Praga.

The group’s gaze is cast towards two wooden buildings in the middle of the Wisła in a strange gloomy shadow. Here again is Bellotto’s genius. By bending nature to his design and turning the lights out on the middle of the river, our eyes are drawn to the real subject of the painting: the magnificent panorama, stretching almost impossibly from Ujazdów to the Sapiechów Palace in New Town.

The painting depicts the most important buildings visible from Praga in 1770: the Royal Castle, then to the right Zygmunt’s Column, St. John’s Cathedral (then a collegiate church), Old Town and New Town burgher houses, St. Kazimierz’s Church and the gothic Church of the Visitationists. From the left of the Royal Castle we can see Krakowskie Przedmieście with the Radziwłł Palace (now the

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presidential palace), Kazimierz Palace (in the university grounds) and Ujazdów Palace after which the river drifts down towards Wilanów.

The view is so breath-taking that it would be impossible not to fall in love with Warsaw at the end of the 18th century. But the perspective that we can enjoy today in the painting would be impossible to capture standing in one place.

Go down to the Praga river bank today and you will have to stand in at least three different spots to achieve Canaletto’s perspective.

The main spot where the artist is depicted in the painting is known as the Canaletto Point. In theory, planning rules state that modern skyscrapers should not rise above the silhouette of historical Warsaw from that spot; rules that developers often forget. The panoramas to the left and right of St. John’s Cathedral are squeezed towards the centre – a forgivable trick that only increases the drama and overall effect.

The painting is well worth viewing along with 22 of his other Warsaw works in the Canaletto Room in the Royal Castle.

PHOTOGRAPH WIKICOMMONS

LOOKING BACK