Warsaw Insider February 2017 #246

• Hearts Of The City • The Five Senses of Warsaw • The Smog Crisis • Travel: Romantic Getaways

Warsaw The Capital’s Original City Magazine Since 1996

FEBRUARY 2017

246 02/2017

INDEKS 334901 ISSN:1643-1723

#

zł.10

(VAT 8% included)

ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER ALEXANDRE BIRMAN ANYA HINDMARCH AQUAZZURA BALMAIN BUSCEMI CASADEI CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN FRANCESCO RUSSO GIANVITO ROSSI HERVE LEGER ISABEL MARANT KENZO KOTUR MAISON MICHEL ONE TEASPOON SELF – PORTRAIT TOD’S TORY BURCH VALENTINO VICTORIA BECKHAM YVES SALOMON

Moliera 2 tel.: 228277099, www.Moliera2.com

FEBRUARY 2017 Editor-in-chief Alex Webber

insider@warsawinsider.pl Art Director Kevin Demaria insider@warsawinsider.pl Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com

INFRONT

Opener 13 News 14 Smog 16 Pardon To Tu 18

FEATURES

Hearts of Warsaw 20 Valentine’s Getaway 22 Valentine’s Day for the Senses 26

2

Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

REVIEWS

Warszawski Lukier 33 Opasły Tom 34 Weranda 36

PARTNER NEWS

The Latest Marketpalce News From The Warsaw Insider’s Friends and Advertisers 37

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2017

LISTINGS

Restaurants 38 Cafes & Wine Bars 68 Nightlife 72 Shopping 78 Family 84 Health & Beauty 89 In the City 91

INBACK

Map 94 Looking Back 96

Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com Business Development Manager A. Julita Pryzmont jpryzmont@valkea.com ey Account Manager K Agata Sicińska asicinska@valkea.com Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com Subscription 12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland.

Orders can be placed through: insider@warsawinsider.pl Printed by Zakład Poligraficzny TECHGRAF Tel. (17) 225-28-69 VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies.

All information ©2017 Warsaw Insider.

on the cover As part of our Valentine’s adventure, we’ve spent the month tracking down the hearts of the city (see p. 20). For those that can’t wait for ‘the big reveal’, that’s Wilanów on the cover.

(Illustration by Michał Miszkurka)

PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT

Just about the toughest task

out there is trying to sell Warsaw in February. Sure, the city’s been spruced up and given a gloss of lipstick, but its hard to appreciate the cosmetic surgery the capital’s undergone when its buried under ice and hidden behind smog. Of course, that hasn’t stopped us trying. This issue, with Valentine’s in mind, we’ve searched out Warsaw’s most romantic angles: the heart-shaped objects dotted about town, the boutique retreats and the little bits and pieces that stir the five senses. And if that’s not enough, stick a toothbrush down your trousers and head out of town – Poland’s most romantic breaks also lie in wait within the pages of this mag. As ever, I hope you enjoy it and see you in March...

Contributors: Stuart Dowell Maria Mileńko Michał Miszkurka Ed Wight

BUSCEMI MEN CANADA GOOSE CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN MEN FAY GIANVITO ROSSI MEN HOGAN KENZO MONCLER MR&MRS ITALY ONE TEASPOON RALPH LAUREN TORY BURCH VALENTINO MEN BURBERRY CHILDREN DSQUARED2 KIDS KENZO KIDS MONCLER KIDS RALPH LAUREN KIDS TOD’S KIDS

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 tel.: +48 226221416, www.PlacTrzechKrzyzy.com

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Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2017

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KAROLINA GMURCZYK

A NIGHT TO REMEMBER...

The city’s top restaurateurs and chefs converged on the Sofitel on January 19th for the latest chapter of the Insider’s prestigious Best of Warsaw food and drinks awards. Key winners on the night included Nolita, who scooped top spot in the fine dining category, MOD (Casual Dining), and Krzysztof Rabek (Best Chef). Having failed to split the Insider’s jury panel, Dyletanci and Rozbrat 20 were tied as Best Upscale Casual Dining. Other noteworthy winners included Mała Polana Smaków (Modern Polish), Nocny Market (Game Changer) and Daniel Pawełek (Best Restaurateur).

www.warsawinsider.pl

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Now in its thirteenth year, the Insider’s Best of Warsaw gala has become firmly established as one of the highlights of the town’s culinary year. With this in mind, it was also the ideal time to officially launch our first ever Best Of Warsaw annual edition, available all year round in selected media outlets, executive lounges and VIP rooms. To all those who helped make the evening the most successful ever, thanks a million!

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Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2017

PARTNERS

www.warsawinsider.pl

9

this month...

Clubbing

Trentmoller 5 Feb @ Progresja, ul. Fort Wola 22 The career of this Danish producer and remixer has been on an upward trajectory for several years: dubbed ‘the biggest breakout of Coachella’ in 2011, he also supported Depeche Mode on their 2013 world tour.

Ticket details unavailable at press time

Clubbing

Bob Sinclar 11 Feb @ The View, ul. Twarda 18 Inspired by ‘peace, love and house music’, Sinclar’s biggest hits include the massively successful Love Generation and World, Hold On. Tickets from zł. 180 @ biletomat.pl

Sport

Legia v Ajax 16 Feb @ Stadion Legii, ul. Łazienkowska 3 Having been humbled in the Champions League, Legia will be hoping the Europa League treats them more kindly.

Having lost 4-0 on aggregate to Ajax last season, the prospect of revenge will also be on their agenda.

Tickets from zł. 60 @ legia.com/tickets

Concert

Apocalyptica 17 Feb @ Torwar, ul. Łazienkowska 6A Metallica get the cello treatment from

this Finnish outfit. Active since 1996, to date this unique act have sold over four million albums.

Tickets from zł. 150 @ eventim.pl

Concert

Gregorian 18 Feb @ Torwar, ul. Łazienkowska 6A The ‘masters of chant’: expect to hear pop and rock songs given a Gregorian chant-inspired spin by these giants of the genre Tickets from zł. 130 @ eventim.pl

Concert

Devin Townsend Project 19 Feb @ Stodoła, ul. Batorego 10 Covering genres as diverse as ambient, new age and progressive rock, the multi-talented Devin Townsend will be in town to promote his September album, Transcendence.

Tickets from zł. 199 @ eventim.pl

Concert

Skunk Anansie 21 Feb @ Stodoła, ul. Batorego 10 Defining themselves as ‘clit rock’, Skunk Anansie are best known for their hard riffs and intense festival performances.

Expect their greatest hits to be rolled out, plus material from the 2016 album Anarchytecture.

Tickets from zł. 149 @ eventim.pl

Feb 4

GUTI LIVE

Guti’s warm electronic sounds are prevalent in clubs and festivals around the world.

Having cooperated with some of the biggest labels and best producers in the world, this Argentinean artist has earned his reputation as a major draw.

Feb 10

MICHAEL MAYER

A walking charisma machine, Michael Mayer is primarily known as a producer, DJ and the co-owner of Kompakt, one of the most influential electronic music labels in the world. His original productions and long, melodic performances are legendary on the scene. This show has been created in collaboration with the esteemed events promoter Instytut.

Feb 17

MISS KITTIN SMOLNA 38

ul. Smolna 38, smolna38.com

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Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2017

Producer, live performer and celebrated vocalist. Having launched her career in the 90s, Miss Kittin has since performed in clubs and festivals on all six continents, and in the process carved a name as one of the best-loved women on the electronic circuit.

BEST OF WARSAW ANNUAL EDITION

The Insider’s Best of Warsaw awards have become one of the leading food and drink events in Poland, which is why for the first time ever we’ve published a separate bumper issue detailing the cream of the crop.

Available all year round for zł. 20, look for it in selected media outlets, or contact us direct at: insider@warsawinsider.pl

BUBBLES IS THE ONLY PLACE WHICH SERVES BUBBLES FROM AROUND THE WORLD Plac Piłsudskiego 9 tel. +48 512 540 913 office@bubbles.com.pl bubbles.com.pl facebook.com/ RestauracjaBubbles instagram.com/ bubbleswarsaw

FREE GLASS OF CHAMPAGNE WITH THIS AD FREE GLASS OF WINE WITH THIS AD

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in

What’s hot, what’s not: the faces and stories trending around town

Greetings from

SAN ESCOBAR

WOŚP 2017

Despite facing numerous hurdles, it’s been announced that the January installment of the annual WOŚP charity drive smashed all previous records.

Now in its 25th year, WOŚP have been raising money for good causes since the early 90s.

1

billion złoty plus

The amount raised by WOŚP since its inception

62.4

million złoty

The amount raised in January

10

million złoty

The Land of Make Believe...

Since being elected to office the incumbent government has come under fire abroad for many of its ultra-conservative policies, however, it’s now found an unlikely ally in the form of San Escobar. Briefing members of the Polish press in New York, the Minister of Foreign Affairs, Witold Waszczykowski, spoke in optimistic terms about his landmark meeting with representatives of this small Caribbean state. As part of a campaign to canvas support for a non-permanent seat on the UN security council, Waszczykowski crowed he had met with many nations “for the first in the history of our diplomacy,” before adding credence to his claim by citing Belize and San Escobar as examples.

All good so far, you might think, only a closer examination of an atlas will show no such country as San Escobar actually exists. Although the blundering minister moved quickly to blame his blooper on jet-lag, news spread fast and Waszczykowski soon found himself the subject of the web’s unforgiving nature. Spawning a host of skits, spoofs and sketches, the incident has since been mercilessly exploited making it one of the first major memes of 2017. Of the more memorable have been a map of the fictional state (complete with the towns of Al Pacino, La Vida Loca and Guacamole), a national anthem sung by South Park’s Cartman, and a 10 Pablo banknote superimposed with the face of Poland’s de facto leader, Jarosław Kaczyński.

The amount raised by the first WOŚP event

120,000 People

Volunteered to help the running of the event

1993 The Year...

WOŚP was founded

1,700

Collection centers

Organized nationwide

www.warsawinsider.pl

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inFront

news

Instant Car-Ma

Karma caught up quickly with a flashy motorist who had been showboating in a gold Lamborghini Aventador estimated to be worth zł. 1.5 million. Captured on New Year’s Day, video footage shows the cocky driver revving up the supercar while stood in a bus lane, before roaring away down Nowy Świat only to promptly collide with a Honda Accord. To add insult to injury, police fined the hapless moron zł. 500 and docked him six points on his license. Since news of the crash went viral, speculation has mounted as to the driver’s identity, with most fingers pointing towards the shady character behind the now defunct Cocomo strip club, a nationwide chain that briefly achieved notoriety for ripping-off their clients.

Plastered

Tomasz Górnicki, a guerrilla sculptor known for his public installations, has caused a stir with his latest work. Made from plaster, the artist had left his Gollum-like character on the curb of an underpass running below Marszałkowska. “I wanted to remind those driving past of the people living in the shadows of society,” says Górnicki, “and how only a fine line separates us from them.”

However, the sculpture found itself seized by authorities who claimed it was a public menace.

Currently sitting in custody in a warehouse, the hunt is on to find the artwork a new officially sanctioned home.

Warsaw’s Chopin Airport recorded its most successful year ever after handling a total of 12.8 million passengers in 2016. Domestic traffic grew by 20.8% from 2015, while the international sector reported an increase of 13.8%.

The figures were buoyed by 41 new routes which were opened last year, and 2017 has started on an equally positive note with assorted airlines already announcing a further 14 destinations including Newark, Nice and Los Angeles. Despite these developments, statistics show that the most popular stops were the various London airports (880,000 passengers), Paris (524,000) and Frankfurt (497,000).

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Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2017

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: YOUTUBE, COURTESY OF ARTIST, SHUTTERSTOCK

Full Flight

The recently opened restaurant and bar Mokotowska 69 is a perfect place for those who enjoy refined food and excellent wine.

The restaurant offers classic Polish dishes with a modern twist, delicious steaks and a wide range of wine from all over the world.

Mokotowska 69 was designed for those who enjoy Polish cuisine and those who would like to try classic Polish dishes with a modern twist, such as Mazurian crayfish in rowan brandy cream sauce, roasted catfish with pearl barley and beets or roasted duck with pears and blackcurrant. The restaurant also specialises in steaks made from American Black Angus (certified prime grade by the USDA), Scottish Aberdeen Angus and the highest quality Japanese Tajima-gyu cattle, “Kobe-style”: class 5, marbling 9+. ul. Mokotowska 69, tel. (+48 22) 628 73 84 / (+48 22) 627 20 33, www.mokotowska69.pl

The restaurant and wine store Merliniego 5, located vis-à- vis the main entrance to the Warszawianka Aqua Park, is the ideal place for those who love good food and fantastic wines. Merliniego 5 specialises in seafood dishes and steaks made of American Black Angus (prime beef USDA certified), especially selected from the New York-based OTTOMANELLI & SONS butchery. The restaurant also serves steaks made of the Aberdeen Angus and top quality Japanese beef from Tajima cattle, “Kobe style” (grade 5A/BMS 9+). Further, menu offers seasonal and traditional Polish cuisine dishes. At the end of 2011, the readers of Gazeta Stołeczna granted us the prestigious title of Knajpa Roku 2011 (Eating Establishment of the Year 2011). Since 2013 we have also been listed in the Michelin Guide. ul. Merliniego 5, tel. (+48 22) 646 08 10 / (+48 22) 646 08 49, www.merliniego5.pl

inFront

city

BY ALEX WEBBER | ILLUSTRATION BY DAWID MAJGAT

Air-pocalypse Now

Despite governmental protestations that smog is but ‘a theoretical problem’, alarm bells are ringing for those living in Warsaw...

A

fter years of positive PR and glowing press, there’s something unsettling about seeing Warsaw once again decried internationally as a city of drab and squalid grayness.

What’s gone wrong? Smog. Just as everyone was getting used to referring to the Polish capital as one of Europe’s biggest buzzes, along came a grim bank of smog that refused to budge. All of a sudden foreign media weren’t writing about the city’s seismic social changes and general glamorization, but rather the foul, choking clouds that had settled overhead. In The New York Times Joanna Berendt wrote, rather beautifully, of an “eerie, gray mist with a pervasive odor of fumes wreathing Warsaw”. This was by no means an exaggeration.

In the capital’s case problems arose this winter when temperatures plunged suddenly in December leading to an upswing in the use of domestic heaters fired by coal, rubbish and other general nastiness. With wind speeds unusually low the city was left facing a situation in which the ensuing smog festered stubbornly overhead.

As a result, on two separate occasions City Hall took the step of announcing free public transport in a bid to curb emissions, whilst other emergency initiatives included upping the incentive for landlords to modernize their antiquated heating systems by increasing payments due to them from zł. 7,000 to zł. 20,000.

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Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2017

Yet as noble as these actions have been, they smack of a classic case of ‘too little, too late’. Furthermore, this local drive has been counter-balanced by a government that continues to pursue an interesting albeit puzzling environmental policy that verges on a complete denial of the facts. While many senior officials have pledged to combat pollution, the general feeling is that these promises have been vague, unfocused and little more than lip service to appease the public. Reinforcing this suspicion has been the government’s assertion that Poland will remain loyal to the coal sector, not to mention the introduction of new legislation that will impose more barriers than ever to those entering the wind power industry.

Curiously, and despite all evidence to the contrary, Konstanty Radziwiłł, the Health Minister, started the year by claiming that smog was merely ‘a theoretical problem’. However, there is nothing theoretical about what has evolved into a fully-fledged crisis: approximately 40,000 Poles die prematurely each year for reasons attributed to air pollution, while figures released by the World Health Organization show that the country has a staggering 33 entrants on its Top 50 list of the EU’s most polluted towns and cities. Such is the standard of air, it’s said that the average Varsovian inhales the equivalent of 1,000 cigarettes per year (in some areas of Silesia, that figure rockets to over 2,500), and as things stand it’s difficult to note any silver lining to this particular cloud.

NIGHTLIFE LEGEND

FINAL NIGHT! The Date: Feb 28th

PHOTOGRAPH ED WIGHT

Pardon To Tu pl. Grzybowski 12/14/16

Goodbye, But Not Farewell...

After months of speculation the management of Pardon To Tu have revealed that this February will be their last month of operations – at least in their current format. Widely recognized for revolutionizing Warsaw’s live music scene, during their six-year run PTT became known for their promotion of unconventional sounds. “Nights get lost in a magic swirl of innovative sound,” wrote our nightlife reviewer, “with the foggy atmosphere given a helping hand by an unorthodox audience that gels together into one vibrant mass.” Now though, this legendary venue faces the wrecking ball with demolition teams set to move in this coming spring before the site magically mushrooms into another skyscraper. However, from despair comes belief, and despite early rumors that they would leave the industry altogether, the management have declared that the hunt for a new venue is on: “While the relocation will no doubt be difficult,” say Daniel and Magda, “we’re hopeful that any new space in the future will allow us even wider artistic freedom.”

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Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2017

Unforgettable Valentine's Day with live music

Premium spirits, signature cocktails and great value wines

Book your table now Every Sat- Sun 13.00-17.00hrs

Try something extra special Every Thu-Fri-Sat

Delightful flavors from across the globe

Party the night away with DJ’s & live music

Delightful flavors from across the globe

Every Friday and Saturday night

STIXX Bar & Grill Plac Europejski 4A 00-844 Warsaw

Mon - Thu Fri Sat Sun tel. 22 340 40 40/41 www.stixx.pl facebook.com/StixxBarGrill

11.30 - 24.00 hrs 11.30 - 02.00 hrs 12.00 - 02.00 hrs 12.00 - 23.00 hrs

www.warsawinsider.pl

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VALENTINE’S HEARTS OF WARSAW

All’s Fair In LOVE & WARSAW (CLOCKWISE FROM TOP)

MOSTEK ZAKOCHANYCH (ul. Przyczółkowa 394) Unveiled in 2012, this dinky 12-meter bridge is best enjoyed at night when fully illuminated. Having snapped your own love lock to the railings, coincide your visit to Wilanów with a nighttime walk around the Royal Garden of Light.

WALL OF HEARTS (ul. Dawna) Noted for the navy-colored building that arches over this tight cobbled alley, the walls flanking this narrow twitten were once sheathed in hearts etched into the plaster by passing lovebirds.

Though most have since been painted over, some have survived the recent clean-up.

I LOVE WARSAW! (Pl. Europejski) The true measure of the Warsaw Spire’s success hasn’t been the applause directed towards the landmark 220-meter tower, but the popularity of the public area on ground level. Of the features, the best loved is the Kocham Warszawę sign: go on, be a tourist and stick your head through the heart.

MURAL (Pl. Europejski) Before: a gloomy tenement with a facade the color of a dead pigeon.

Now: a vibrant piece of wall art sprayed by Rafał Olbiński and Belgian artist Francois Schuiten. With a bit of TLC, a dark block has been given new life and meaning.

CHURCH OF THE HOLY CROSS (ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 3) He might be buried in Paris, but you’ll find Chopin’s heart in Warsaw – preserved in a crystal jar filled with cognac. Encased inside a column, the composer’s ticker was exhumed in 2014 in a top secret ceremony held to assess its general state. Swiftly reinterred, hang around till 2064 for its next scheduled check-up.

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Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2017

So you think you know Warsaw off-by-heart? Then impress that special someone with a romantic safari around the heart(s) of the city...

www.warsawinsider.pl

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VALENTINE’S IN TOWN GETAWAYS

home&

AWAY

Whether it’s heading yonder into the back of beyond, or staying a little closer to home, pack your overnight bag for Valentine’s and stay sleep special...

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Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2017

FOR DESIGN Autor Rooms Looking a little reminiscent of the building in Rosemary’s Baby, a stunning piece of architecture has been put to good use to house Autor. Centered around a hip communal living space that’s complete with turntables and a vinyl record collection, find four rooms with custom-made furnishings and cool pieces sourced from Poland’s top artists. Designed by a collective of local architects and creatives, it’s little wonder that this handsome space has caught the attention of the international travel press. ul. Lwowska 17/7, autorrooms.pl Doubles from zł. 490

FOR OLD & NEW TOWN

FOR ART DECO

Le Regina

Rialto

An exquisite experience, this hotel is special in every respect: found in a restored 18th century palace on the edge of New Town, Regina occupies a beautiful property set down a serene, cobbled street. A zen-like courtyard, luxuriously appointed rooms and a personalized atmosphere all stack in its favor, and though the area is rich in restaurants, none rival La Rotisserie – regarded as one of the top dining rooms in the country, it’s also one of the most romantic.

Kościelna 12, mamaison.com Doubles from zł. 370

Inspired by the inter-war jazz age, the Art Deco Rialto could easily serve as a stage set for an Agatha Christie whodunnit.

Opened in 2003, rooms come furnished with pieces purchased from the auction houses and flea markets of Paris, with the individually designed rooms riffing on themes of colonial African, pre-war Vienna and Gatsby-era America. Stuffed with nickel-plated brass, Italian marble and glass mosaics, Poland’s first boutique hotel is still something of a benchmark.

The tasting menu in their restaurant is a must. ul. Wilcza 73, rialto.pl Doubles from zł. 350

FOR NOTHING BUT THE BEST

FOR SOMETHING SPECIAL

H15

Bellotto

Once the seat of the inter-war Soviet Embassy, this boutique stay offers immaculate luxury lodgings full of clean lines, open spaces and adventurous art by Rita Zimmerman. Consistently rated as one of the top hotels in Poland, the attention to detail is a credit to the interior designer, Mariola Tomczak. Furnished with suave Italian trimmings and handpicked antiques, it’s no surprise to learn that Patrizia Gucci and a host of other ‘slebs are rumored to have stayed here. The penthouse is unrivaled in Poland. ul. Poznańska 15, h15boutiqueapartments.com Doubles from zł. 450

Warsaw’s latest luxury hotel resonates with a keen sense of history: slotted inside a grand 18th century palace, everything you see and touch feels cool and considered. Purring with elegant sophistication, it’s been fitted out to the highest modern standards while also maintaining a strong sense of identity. If you’re staying with your Valentine then book yourself a hot chocolate massage, before cocooning yourself upstairs in a room with views of Old Town. ul. Senatorska 13/15, hotelbellotto.pl Doubles from zł. 700

www.warsawinsider.pl

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VALENTINE’S OUT OF TOWN GETAWAYS

FOR A CITY BREAK

FOR SKIING

Hilton Gdańsk

Villa 11 Folk & Design

With its gabled townhouses, soaring steeples and cobbled back alleys, Gdańsk’s old town is one of the best kept secrets of northern Europe. But a special city requires a special hotel and the Hilton is that place. Looking right over the Motława River, this is a spot that sparkles with cool. Suites and bedrooms are chic and slick, and the trump card is a fifth floor swimming pool with enthralling views.

Targ Rybny 1, Gdańsk, hiltongdansk.pl Doubles from zł. 330 360 km north-west of Warsaw

Set away from the sc(r)um clotting the main pedestrian artery, ul. Krupówki, treat Villa 11 as an isolation tank removed from hackneyed cliches of mainstream Zakopane. Inside this slope-roofed lodge the interiors are big on neutral tones, chunky wood finishes and discreet folksy patterns – modern and design-minded whilst also maintaining a connection with the area’s tradition. Ask for a room overlooking the pristine mountain tops. ul. Broniewski 11, Zakopane, villa11.pl Doubles from zł. 250 410 km south of Warsaw

FOR A CASTLE BREAK

FOR A SPA BREAK

Zamek Korzkiew

No Name Luxury Hotel & Spa

In daylight hours Kraków can be ravishingly romantic. The problem comes with nightfall: you’re always within earshot of staggering Brits on the lookout for strip clubs and punch-ups.

Avoid the pests by staying further afield: fifteen clicks north is Korzkiew, a small fairy tale castle dating from the 14th century. Sweeping in their grandeur, the four chambers come with ancestral portraits and crackling hearths. It looks like something straight from Rapunzel.

Przybysławice, donimirski.com Doubles from zł. 280 290 km south of Warsaw

Nestled in the rolling hills of the deep south, No Name presents a series of spruce log lodges interlinked by an arrangement of glass catwalks. Contemporary but cozy, rooms are heavy on natural stone, glass and wood, but its the spa that’s the standout: there’s a saltwater pool with a mirrored mosaic floor, milk bath treatments, innovative wine therapy and a salt cave. Combined together, these all create a secluded sense of harmony. ul. Leśna 46, Łapsze Niżne, nonameluxuryhotelspa.com Doubles from zł. 580 450 km south of Warsaw

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Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2017

FOR THE COAST

Cisowy Zakątek

W Drzewach

Most would call you nuts for visiting the Baltic in the middle of February, but there’s a melancholic magic to the wintry wilderness. Consisting of 14 bow-roofed bungalows, the creativelystyled lodgings are spacious and highly individual efforts that you easily imagine featuring in a lifestyle magazine. Frozen forests and windswept beaches are easily reached, and so too the award-winning local restaurant Ewa Zaprasza. It’s the ultimate switch off. ul. Stara Cegielnia 18, Sasino, cisowyzakatek.pl Doubles from zł. 250 450 km north of Warsaw

Wander into the woods that fringe the sedate spa town of Nałęczów and you’ll discover three wooden cabins perched high in the trees. Offering a smooth Scandinavian look, the design is modern yet womb-like in warmth. With no TV or other such distractions, time passes in a detached daydream: the silence is incredible, and broken only by the whispers and whistles of the forest down below. A tree-top sauna and thermal bath have been recent additions. ul. Klonowa 2, Nałęczów, wdrzewach.pl Cabins zł. 340 155 km south-east of Warsaw

FOR WILDLIFE

FOR NATURE

FOR TRANQUILITY

Sioło Budy

Siedlisko Sobibór

In essence, think of Sioło Budy as a village within a village: offering the full rural immersion experience, the rudimentary accommodation is inside a network of charming timber cottages full of squeaks and creaks. It’s a place to switch off the phone, wear woolly jumpers and sip mugs of piping hot chocolate while watching the stars. During the day, you don’t have to head far before you’re coming eyeball-to-eyeball with rutting deer and free-roaming bison. ul. Budy 41, Budy, siolobudy.pl Doubles from zł. 198 230 km east of Warsaw

Ignoring the rather obvious association with the WWII death camp, the Sobibór area has much to offer those looking to extract themselves away from the big city lights. At Siedlisko accommodation is divided either into a few rustic cottages or in a couple of snug units constructed on stilts in the meadow out back. Engaging and atmospheric, it’s a break that requires a stack of unread books and a bottle of wine. You leave fully recharged for the reality ahead.

Sobibór 30, Włodawa, siedliskosobibor.pl Doubles from zł. 300 235 km south-east of Warsaw

www.warsawinsider.pl

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VALENTINE’S LOVE SENSES

Come To

SENSES

Ice blue in February and cloaked in a thick film of murk: that’s Warsaw for you. Sure it’s tricky, but viewing the city through a heart-shaped lens at this time of year isn’t impossible. With Valentine’s Day on the agenda, we reveal the romantic must-dos that will appeal to all your senses...

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Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2017

www.warsawinsider.pl

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VALENTINE’S FOR THE LOVE OF SIGHT/SMELL

The Invisible Exhibition demonstrates the trials of being blind: it might not sound romantic, but this unconventional date is great for couples – thought provoking, interesting, and, ironically somewhat, totally eye-opening.

After: navigate yourself around the side streets of the Filtry district – it’s one of the more idyllic residential areas of Warsaw.

Titillating and glam, the burlesque shows held once a month in Bar & Books promise a rip roaring evening. Exquisite drinks, black tie service and warm wood-paneled interiors combine to make this probably the classiest night out you’ll discover in Warsaw.

After: a walk around the Old Town walls, stopping at the Barbakan to listen to the buskers.

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By in large Warsaw prefers to vegetate in front of a loud Hollywood blockbuster. There are though alternatives for the more cerebral cinema goer, the most noteworthy being Kino Iluzjon and Kino Muranów. Both have a Lynchesque feel about them, as well as a repertoire that throws the spotlight on brainy foreign films.

After: if in Muranów, and provided it’s not the middle of the night, imbibe more culture at the Polin Jewish Museum.

Saved over from 1905, the Fotoplastikon has guests peering through eyepieces to take a 3D journey through the pre-war world. It’s a bizarre, eccentric attraction / contraption that feels powerfully nostalgic.

After: head over to the viewing deck

of the Palace of Culture across the road.

There’s talking points aplenty at the Zachęta and CSW galleries.

Considered among the leading contemporary art galleries in Poland, the exhibitions are daring, controversial and fiercely intellectual.

After: both are bordered by magnificent parks.

Warsaw has some majestic bridges to savor and cross. Most Świętokrzyski is the one loved by locals: prominent in umpteen films and serials – including several domestic Rom Coms – its festooned with love locks and looks stunning at night when fully lit-up.

After: get the camera out – the view from the Praga side is awesome.

The most important sense when evaluating wine? Smell. Put your hooter to good use at Ale Wino, an intimate wine bar with a courtyard setting. Genial and romantic, Ale Wino’s small dimensions, informed service and compelling menu make it a must for date night.

After: Mokotowska feels like a little piece of Paris – get window shopping...

Find the Finnish Houses, a bucolic micro-community consisting of a few dozen wooden cottages, tucked between ul. Jazdów and Lennona.

It’s a magic world in which squirrels dart from bushes and smoke drifts from wood-fired stoves before disappearing into the soupy mist.

After: check Ujazdów Park pausing at the picturesque humpbacked bridge.

For a sense of urban adventure forget Warsaw’s fancy schmancy florists and head to Hala Mirowska’s outdoor flower market. Recommended for last minute panic buys and peace offerings, browsing the stalls fills up the senses.

After: coffee in nearby Chłodna 25, a happening cafe with a creative edge.

When it comes to perfume, there’s nothing stopping you opting for a big brand and the easy way out.

But you’d be amazed what going the extra yard does: construct your partner’s own bespoke scent under the guidance of some of the best noses in Poland at the Mo61 perfume lab.

After: a pre-war Warsaw-themed cocktail inside the dimly lit Woda Ognista.

Master the art of making chocolate at Manufaktura Czekolady’s workshops for adults. The luxurious scents and deep aromas are in themselves an olfactory pleasure that lingers long.

After: think about the Chopin Museum...

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VALENTINE’S FOR THE LOVE OF TASTE/TOUCH

Whether Hala Koszyki can be classed as romantic is highly debatable, but it does have a permanent throb and buzz that lends itself well for casual meets. And there’s the Port Royal Oyster Bar, a great place that’s segregated well from the general tumult.

After: bed down at the Rialto Hotel (see p. 23).

Suffused in a candle-lit glow, the 15th century cellar housing the Same Fusy tea room (not to be confused with the ground floor pub) unwinds to reveal a charming brick room high on gnarled wooden oddities and tree stump tables. The sweet, fragrant teas amplify the fairy tale mood.

After: rummage around the eclectic collection of antiques in Lapidarium opposite.

Propose a toast in Bubbles, a snug and affordable champagne bar with none of the airs and graces you might well expect. Seeing as you’re

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there, delve into a menu that’s big on aphrodisiacs such as oysters and truffles.

After: dress up for a show and hit the opera opposite.

Whether its radical interpretations of Polish food or madcap methods that blur the line between science and cooking, the fine dining restaurants we list (see p. 41) guarantee a thick bill and a memorable night that makes you feel like a star.

After: nothing. A good meal can’t be bettered.

At one point you’ll be wanting cocktails: the Panorama Bar on Floor 40 of the Marriott comes with breathtaking views of the toy town below. Alternatively, the subterranean Weles has a covert, speakeasy atmosphere and masterful drinks that are arguably the best to be found.

After: if coming from Weles, sponge up the lively atmosphere of Nowogrodzka.

Sip some tea before cooing and making silly noises over the scampering furry things romping about – as Warsaw’s first cat cafe, think of Miau as a unique and quirky spot to woo your date.

After: if you’re there Sunday make the 20-minute walk to Warsaw’s most famous flea market, Bazar Na Kole.

The Copernicus Science Centre engages every sense there is, though most of all touch. The interactive displays and exhibits make it a fun environment to compete against your partner and discover who’s the smartest!

After: the rooftop garden of the nearby uni library doesn’t open till April; instead, peruse the cool Polish poster art on sale on ground level.

Get yourself in a sensual sizzle at an Argentinean tango workshop.

There’s plenty to choose from but Złota Milonga stands out for its diverse groups and wacky building.

After: walk through the handsomely restored Krasińskich Park – it’s a real In The Know gem.

Give your aura a healthy glow by booking in for a couples massage at Studio Sante. Don’t miss the ‘mood rooms’ – they leave you feeling like you’re floating in space.

After: head back across the river over Most Gdański. The epic spiral staircase on the left side is a landmark oft-visited by ‘Just Married’ couples.

A ‘lucky’ church bell rescued from the ruins of WWII Warsaw sits in the middle of ul. Kanonia – touch the top, circle around it three times and then make a wish. You never know, this could end well.

After: pant up the belfry tower of St. Anne’s Church by Zygmunt’s Column for a panoramic view of the smog.

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VALENTINE’S FOR THE LOVE OF SOUND Wrap-up warm then huddle together on the back of one of the horse-drawn carriages that clip clop around Old Town. The sound of hooves on cobbles is the definitive sound of Old Town.

After: head to the terrace on ul.

Brzozowa to watch ice floes slink down the Wisła.

A splendid relic of a bygone age, the Bristol Hotel’s Column Bar sweeps you off your feet. Enjoy classic cocktails while the sounds of the resident pianist swirl under cavernous, ornate ceilings.

After: a moonlight walk down to the ornate Stanislawa Markiewicz viaduct.

Dubbed ‘the most romantic of Romantic composers’, learn all about Chopin in the stunning museum dedicated to his memory.

Such is the content here, even non-believers exit swooning over Warsaw’s most celebrated hero.

After: the Chopin Music University is round the corner – lurk around outside and you’ll hear budding musicians polishing their skills.

Smack, bang in the middle of the Old Town Square, listen to the woosh of ice skates at Warsaw’s most scenic rink. Gliding around the Mermaid statue while lights glimmer above is always a thrilling experience.

After: mulled wine from one of the timber cabins overlooking the rink.

Soak in the sexy sounds of the sax in 12on14, a debonair jazz bar with a suave clientele. Open from Tuesday through till Saturday, the live performances frequently tingle the spine.

After: check into Autor Rooms then make your own sexy sounds (see p. 22).

The timeless, delicate beauty of Łazienki is appreciated by all.

Wonderful in winter, it’s a park filled with frost-powdered trails and snow-capped Greco-Roman features. But it is the peacocks everyone remembers: their calls and cries are both wistful and alluring.

After: wait till dusk to stroll down ul. Agrykola, a tree-lined street lit by 19th century gas lamps.

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REVIEWS RESTAURANTS 38 CAFES & WINE BARS 68 NIGHTLIFE 72 SHOPPING 78 FAMILY 84 HEALTH & BEAUTY 89 IN THE CITY 91

FREAK OUT!

Upmarket, boutique patisseries have swept into Warsaw, though all thus far have a style that’s so serious it borders severe. Then, on the other hand, you have Warszawski Lukier. Looking pretty in pink, there’s a fun and feminine vibe that goes beyond just a quirky design that features rose colored swings. The desserts are hardcore food porn, and include Lukier’s signature freak shakes: towering treats cascading with calories and color. Indulge and enjoy.

Warszawski Lukier ul. Hoża 5/7

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REVIEWS

w

Ring The Changes

New chef, new ideas, same result... Perfect

en Chris Martin and Gwyneth Paltrow announced their ‘conscious uncoupling’ a few years back most of the world snickered about their daffy choice of words. In hindsight though, there’s much to like about the phrase, not least its insinuation of free-spirited geniality. In many ways, it’s also directly applicable to the case of Opasły Tom: after several years spent steering the kitchen, Agata Wojda has departed from her spiritual home to pursue private projects. Often cited as Poland’s top female chef, the lyricism of Wojda’s compositions was practically poetic in style. But while losing her has been a blow, Opasły Tom have gathered themselves and bounced straight back.

Rather than looking to appoint an immediate successor to Wojda’s crown, the management have instead opted to pursue a ‘pop-up’ style policy of hosting guest chefs. Not only does

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the concept guarantee a revolving door of fresh ideas, it’s an angle that further adds edge and excitement and a sense of the unknown.

First up on the block is Flavia Borawska, and her threemonth tenure (concluding at the end of March) has already won rave reviews and admirers aplenty. Having served an internship at Noma, Borawska’s culinary journey has included other global big hitters such as The Clove Club in London and Cibreo in Florence. Clearly, she’s learned well, for her menu is an exhilarating ride that manages to peak and then peak some more: it’s been a stunning Polish debut for this upcoming chef.

Opasły Tom Kręgliccy ul. Foksal 17, kregliccy.pl/opaslytom

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

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REVIEWS

Salad Days

Weranda gets the green light...

i

f you know Poznań then you probably know Weranda.

Founded 15 years back, this small chain has cornered the market there for fresh, healthy food inside charmingly personalized settings. It makes sense then that a brand like this should finally seek to take the next step and establish itself in the capital: and where better to do so than the burgeoning Hala Koszyki, after all, nowhere says NOW more than this upmarket food hall.

Warmly decorated with shrubbery and dangling paper decoys, Weranda’s design is thoughtful enough to be in equilibrium with the wider setting, yet sufficiently distinct to stand apart from the crowd. And speaking of the crowd, it helps, also, that it feels more private than Koszyki’s other units: the feeling is of dining inside a restaurant on a busy strip, rather than in the epicenter of a food court – so while you’ve got all the action buzzing past, missing is the vulnerable sensation of

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being publicly exposed.

Kudos, as well, to the food. Celebrated for their salads, don’t expect to be pecking on morsels of rabbit food – instead, pepare for huge, leafy affairs assembled to look complex and intriguing. Notable for their size and freshness, it sounds unbelievable but these are meals in themselves. Our Croatian salad arrives ensconced inside jumbo leaves of lettuce and flowing forth with mango, shrimps, goat cheese and much more besides. A splash of Weranda’s homemade vinaigrette lifts it even further. If you thought salad was just about simple tastes then prepare for a rethink – here’s a place that redraws the lines.

Weranda Bistro ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki),

Partner News The latest marketplace news from the Warsaw Insider’s friends and advertisers…

The Amber Heart of Warsaw

Looking for gift ideas for St. Valentine’s Day? So go with something classic like a beautiful amber heart. Whatever it is you’re looking for, whether it’s romantic gifts for her or a stylish Valentine’s gift for him, Bursztynek has all that and much more.

Bursztynek Rynek Starego Miasta 4/6, bursztynek.co

Bring To Bear

Hosted by a giant bear (and his friends!), Stixx invite parents and children each Saturday and Sunday for family lunch and an afternoon of fun and surprises.

Lasting from 1 p.m. to 5 p.m., entertainment includes a ‘dance playground’, culinary workshops (cupcakes and pizza planned for different weekends in February) as well as a carnival ball at the end of the month.

Stixx Pl. Europejska 4A, stixx.pl

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restaurants KEY

NEW & NOTEWORTHY

$ zł. 30 (per main) $$ zł. 30-55 $$$ over zł. 55 New listings are in RED 2016 Best of Warsaw Award Winner BEST OF WARSAW 2016 KEY WINNERS Fine Dining Nolita Casual Dining MOD Upscale Casual Dyletanci & Rozbrat20 Modern Polish Mała Polana Smaków

FLORENTIN (ul. Smolna 40, fb.com/FlorentinWarszawa) A quite beautiful, pale-colored dining room that boldly presents the cuisine of modern day Israel.

High on North African twists and turns, there’s a creativity at work here that marks Florentin out as one of the most exciting openings in recent months: if in doubt, the veal with harissa, grilled pepper and pear puree is a winning order that deserves full attention. Onto dessert, and make space for the basil panna cotta served with ‘tomato jam’.

THE BLUEBERRY’S (Pl. Zbawiciela, fb.com/theblueberrys) Strange times for Pl. Zbawiciela: it’s not long back people were burning down the rainbow installation (RIP!), calling it Pl. Hipsterka and writing about it in publications such as The New York Times. Though it might have stagnated a little since that heyday hopes are again high for the future, and The Blueberry’s is one reason. Specializing in the food of Piedmont, find an onus placed on fresh ingredients and authentic, home-style tastes. We’re back next issue for a full review.

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african american balkan & russian british burgers & street food chinese cooking schools fine dining french georgian greek & turkish hungarian indian indonesian international italian japanese & sushi jewish korean latin & spanish mexican middle eastern pancakes polish seafood steak houses thai

39 39 39 40 40 41 41 41 43 43 43 44 44 45 45 52 54 55 55 56 56 58 59 62 65 65 66

listings / restaurants african Café Baobab (H4) ul. Francuska 31, tel. 22 617 4057, cafebaobab.pl The work of former basketball player Aziz Seck, Baobab brings the tastes of Senegal to Saska Kępa. The mafe yap – beef stewed in peanut sauce – is as interesting as it sounds, and best enjoyed during their bi-monthly Saturday night concerts. $

american Brooklyn Restaurant & Bar (C4) Al. Jana Pawła II 18 (Rondo ONZ), tel. 22 114 3434, brooklynbw.eu Gone are the fancy pants culinary creations once found in the basement, ousted in favor of a menu of pimped-up soul and street food, salads and steaks. This means fresh tacos not to mention the best-selling ‘Mito’s Beef Ribs’.

The ground floor burger bar is more prosaic, offering a standard line-up of burgers and wings. $$

Champions Sports Bar (D5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 630 5119, champions.pl While the concept and style look dated, there’s no faulting the attention to detail – with TVs positioned all over the place you won’t miss a kick. The heavy décor brings to mind the trans-Atlantic sports bars of the 90s, with glinting trophies, whirring machines, clacking pool tables and a cacophony of commentaries. Hell, there’s even a boxing ring. But you can’t criticize their consistency: the food is always on-point, the staff are pro, while the generous floor plan makes it suitable for unwieldy groups of large and loud lads. $$ Hard Rock Café (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, hardrockcafe.pl Instantly recognizable by the giant neon guitar outside, Hard Rock has a pierced staff of skater boys and rock girls and a menu that is, if nothing else, completely reliable. Peruse rock’n’roll swag that includes Joplin’s blouse, Prince’s guitar and Shakira’s pants. $$

Someplace Else (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6710, someplace-else.pl Favoring a stark concrete look, SPE were once a legend of 90s/00s Warsaw. Things have tamed down since that ex-pat heyday, but this remains a noteworthy choice for live concerts and zippy Tex Mex food. $$

balkan Banja Luka (E8) ul. Szkolna 2/4, tel. 22 828 1060, banjaluka.pl Lots of clunky timber and imported ceramics set the scene at this eatery, a Balkan stalwart that’s known for its economical pricing structure and bulky portions. Grilled meats are prominent and the food largely reliable. $$ Yugo (B4) ul. Sienna 83 (enter from Żelazna), tel.

694 109 379 You feel alive just being here: big on Colgate white colors, vintage tourist

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listings / restaurants agency posters and bright stickers, Yugo is just about the cheeriest eatery you’ll come across on a dour Warsaw day. Presenting the food of the former Yugoslavia, this Balkan bolt hole specializes in meaty dishes served in traditional bread. $

british Created by Jarosław Voitiuk, our menu is influenced by seasonal produce and it is mostly based on fresh fish and seafood delivered daily from Spain. Find a classic cuisine with a modern twist and a beautiful game of colours and form matched with award-winning wines and unique cocktails

Ę Rybę (E4) Al. Jana Pawła II 18, erybe.pl Warsaw’s has done fish and chips before, yet nowhere has managed to capture the unique taste of the British seaside as convincingly as this place. Forget the grey and greasy offerings the city has previously volunteered, here’s a spot where the chips are golden, the fish fresh and the batter crisp and light. Doused with malt vinegar, and a couple of dollops of tartar sauce, here’s food that cuddles and comforts those Brits who miss home. $$ Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640, legendsbar.pl It’s a British pub first and foremost, but massive steps have been taken to ensure that the food angle isn’t overlooked. The all-day breakfast is a great way to stoke up your drinking powers, while other dishes of note inc. pies, sausages and mash and, of course, fish and chips. $$ Pik’s Fish & Chips ul. Grójecka 17B You wait years for a fish and chip shop and then two come along at once. But most of the Brits are converging on E Rybę in the center, and there’s a reason for that: entered into a head-to-head and there’s one clear winner. It’s not Pik. Comparisons to E Rybę are both inevitable and unfavorable: smaller portions and tastes that are just not quite there. $

ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 516 995 690, www.zmianaklimatu.pl

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Beef’N’Roll (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel. 531 707 070, beefnroll.pl If the wheels have fallen off the burger craze then no-one told Beef’N’Roll.

Originating as a food truck, their success has been such that a fixed venue was required.

Everything about the food and drink suggests quality is the main consideration. $ Bez Ości (D5) ul. Hoża 51, bezosci.com Those lamenting the loss of Warsaw’s first artisan sandwich stop – MeatLove – have been given hope by the opening of a new venture across the street. Specializing in fish-based sarnies and baguettes, the choice includes deboned catches fresh from a stint in the smokehouse served in bread baked in traditional brick ovens. The cod with horseradish choice is a particular bestseller. Find it occupying a tiny, converted space inside a former vodka distillery. $ Burger Bar ul. Puławska 974/80 (enter from Olkuska) & ul. Krucza 41/43, burgerbar.waw.pl Warsaw has come full-circle: years after burgers briefly starred as the national food, it’s the original burger joint that still bosses the field. $ Okienko (D7) ul. Polna 22 Belgian-style frites served in paper cones right from out of a street-side hatch. Yes they’re good, but they’re bettered by the sauces that are written up in marker pen on the wall tiles. With money exchanged, do your eating on the upturned crates left on the side of the curb. $

burgers & street food

Pogromcy Meatów (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, tel. 505 703 508 Yearn no more for the elusive flavor of the backyard BBQ. Specializing in grilled meat, find exactly just that loaded into artisan buns alongside locally grown greens. The sense of homespun quality makes this the kind of comfort food that Warsaw has been missing for years. $

Barn Burger (D4) ul. Złota 9. tel. 512 157 567, barnburger. pl Retaining a loyal crowd ever since their 2012 entry on the burger circuit, Barn Burger offer a loud and lively atmosphere and much celebrated burgers with goofy names like Heart Attack and Muppet. The list by the door notes the results of their Americanstyle eating competitions / greed-fests. $

SAS Duck & Chicken (D5) ul. Piękna 54, fb.com/sasduckandchicken Although SAS Duck & Chicken feels reminiscent of the ‘hipster pop-up’ we first saw three or four years back, they’ve taken a tried and tested format and hit refresh. A small and simple space it might be, but this kitchen crew have won hearts and minds with an understandable menu that presents

listings / restaurants comfort food at its glorious best: BBQ hot wings, duck confit burgers, chicken skewers and turkey in a big, buttery brioche. These are simple pleasures refined for a picky palette. $ Warburger (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1, warburger.pl While Warsaw has lost its appetite for burgers, you wouldn’t necessarily tell by popping in WarBurger. Set inside a diminutive cabin, join the scrum for jazzed-up burgers that use slow-food ingredients. If not the best, they’re most certainly up there. $ Ziggi Point (B4) ul. Pańska 59, tel. 696 145 735 Diners are summoned to the counter to collect their order via a buzzer, before settling down to enjoy what has emerged as a real candidate for Warsaw’s best burger. The fiery Desperados is as perfect as a burger gets, and best twinned with a Curiosity Cola from the Fentimans brand. Steaks and wings also available inside a cool diner setup. $

chinese Regina Bar ul. Koszykowa 1, fb.com/Reginabar Stepping past a pair of flowing red drapes at the entrance, guests are ushered in to discover an eclectic world that marries the tastes of New York’s Little Italy to Chinatown next door. This is done excellently with the menu presenting the very essence of ethnic comfort food: General Tso’s chicken, Cantonese roast duck and light, leopardspotted pizzas. Brought to you by the makers of MOD, it’s therefore natural that the original style extends to kooky interiors tinged with a trace of retro: a tall mirrored wall and the kind of sparkling chandelier last seen in Boogie Nights.

cooking schools Akademia Kulinarna Whirlpool ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), akademiakulinarnawhirlpool.pl Run by two Italians, find a gleaming kitchen inside a vast warehouse space inside Soho Factory. Mediterranean workshops are the primary foundation, though wine tasting and Polish cooking courses are also available.

Cook Up Studio ul. Racławicka 99 (Fort Mokotów), tel. 22 212

89 76, cookup.pl Workshops in a gorgeous cooking studio located in a redbrick fortress.

Past themes have included Swedish cooking (led by the Swedish Embassy chef), knife skills and soup, with lessons culminating in eating all that hard work.

fine dining Amber Room at the Sobański Palace (E6) Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, amberroom.pl The Amber Room is, indeed, a bit of a treasure. You know all the chefs we bang on about in this mag? Bottom line, the good ones came through via this kitchen.

But this is more than a training ground for future stars, it’s a place that remains on the cutting edge in spite of its seemingly straight look. Positioned inside a majestic villa, the food is pure contemporary Poland, and well deserving of its Michelin nod. For that, thank chef Robert Skubisz. $$$ Atelier Amaro (E6) ul. Agrykola 1, tel. 22 628 5747, atelieramaro.pl The recipient of Poland’s first Michelin star, Atelier promotes pedigree Polish produce enhanced by modern techniques, with courses interspersed by occasionally bizarre interludes (leaves, flowers, twigs, etc). It’s an extraordinary dining experience, and one which confirms the growing cult of Wojciech Amaro. In the hours you’re here the world stops and you leave feeling like James Bond. Reservations are mandatory, but this is a restaurant that tops the foodie bucket list. $$$

Belvedere Łazienki Królewskie ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. 22 558 6701, belvedere. com.pl Set in a spectacular glass orangery in the heart of Łazienki Park, Belvedere is an address that impresses – where else will you find peacocks poking their chests out right outside the window? There are a la carte options, but to see how the scope of chef Marcin’s talents check the tasting menu (zł. 260-290). This is Polish cuisine at its innovative peak. $$$ La Rotisserie (C1) ul. Kościelna 12 (Le Régina Hotel), tel.

22 531 6070, leregina.com It began with www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / restaurants duck foie gras and finished with a caramel Valrhona chocolate parfait. In between came a scallop salad with plums, almonds and tarragon tempura; a grilled tuna; and a seared Barbary duck with blackberry ginger sauce and the kind of parsnips you never knew existed. The Insider’s visit at the end of 2016 was nothing if not a reassertion of chef Paweł Oszczyk’s ample skill. Enjoy one of Warsaw’s top dining experiences inside a gloriously seductive dining room that’s been recently updated. $$$ L’enfant Terrible (D8) ul. Sandomierska 13 (enter from Rejtana), tel. 22 119 5705, eterrible.pl Chef Michal Brys might look like he’s just swaggered in from a rock concert, but his flair for experimentation is second to none: expect a menu that marries local produce with the latest tricks and techniques. The tasting menu (six courses for zł. 219) is a brilliant insight into the mind of a chef who likes to push boundaries and get playful with ingredients.

With all the hype you expect this place to be a little up its arse, but it’s anything but.

Again, credit for that goes to Brys and his front-of-house staff. $$$ N31 (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 31, n31restaurant.pl One of the original pioneers of modern Polish cooking returns with renewed vigor. That’s Robert Sowa, and his N31 restaurant has already made a massive splash with an upmarket, showbizzy crowd enjoying complex cooking

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amid a luxurious interior of pristine linen and glinting tableware. $$$

Nolita (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 292 0424, nolita. pl The deluxe dining scene is filling out in Warsaw, and there’s now a few restaurants that can present an equitable claim for the No. 1 spot. However, it’s Nolita that perch at the top, with a menu that sees largely classical recipes through a sharp, modern prism – chef Jacek Grochowina has created a place that’s coherent and understandable without sacrificing values of innovation. Looking chic and high end, the tastes and sensations in this restaurant are thrilling: diners are left speechless by the tuna tartar, while the aged beef fillet is an Insider mainstay. $$$ BEST WAWA 2016 “Fine Dining”

Platter by Karol Okrasa (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (Hotel InterContinental Warsaw), warsaw.intercontinental.com It’s a fact that Okrasa’s appearances in the kitchen are fleeting and rare, but that’s done nothing to hurt this restaurant’s prestige. Head chef Łukasz Pielak has proved to be a lethal assassin, executing the ideas of his mentor with accuracy and passion. The cooking is detailed, balanced and elegant, with the highlight of our visit being deer in plum

sauce. A thing of imperial, velvety richness it’s a dish that turns up the volume on a memorable experience. $$$

Salto (D5) ul. Wilcza 73 (enter from Emilii Plater), tel. 22 584 8771, saltorestauracja.pl For those who think Argentine chef Martin Gimenez-Castro is just about steak, then they haven’t been to Salto. The tasting menu is the best way to view his full oeuvre, and on our visit included ceviche with Portuguese corvina; a dainty tranche of cavala mackerel; and Porcini ice cream served in the shape of a mushroom.

It’s a brilliant demonstration of the chef’s passion and personality, but most of all, it’s just bloody brilliant. $$$ Senses (C2) ul. Bielańska 12, tel. 22 331 9697, sensesrestaurant.pl A spectacular experience from start to finish: begin by walking through a flame-lit tunnel, and then conclude the night with an edible cigar: a grand tobacco flavored pastry infused with whisky and cinnamon. In between our night includes beetroot bread with a teat pipette of apple essence; a beef rib that’s a big blast of smoke and crunch; and a shellfish goulash that’s rich and rough and rolling in flavor. Perfectly paced, expertly portioned and bristling with invention, their newly acquired Michelin star makes bookings recommended. $$$

listings / restaurants Signature (D5) ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 55 38755, signaturerestaurant.pl You feel a millionaire just being here: we’ve heard the interiors described as a ‘Monegasque state of mind’, and that’s not a bad way to surmise a décor that’s all about friezes and reliefs dated from the time this was the Soviet Embassy, lavish 1950s Oswald chairs, lighting by Serge Mouille and original Marilyn photos shot by the acclaimed Milton Greene. Food-wise the restaurant makes a massive splash with a menu that’s clever, creative and pretty.

Count on Signature’s seasonally changing desserts providing a happy ending. $$

french ArtBistro Stalowa ul. Stalowa 52, tel. 22 618 2732 Part of an ‘art hotel’, the distant Stalowa features a narrow dining chamber with vaulted walls, fresh flowers and white formica fittings.

It looks good, but on a brighter day the courtyard, strewn with deckchairs and crates, is the place to be. The food is erratic but there is potential: if the other courses were a disappointment then the main was a thing of excellence – duck with a carefully crisped skin, a perfect hint of fat, expertly browned potatoes and a well-executed orange and caramel sauce. $$ L’Arc (E8) ul. Puławska 16, tel. 519 000 050, larc.pl Looking elegant with its black/white floors and subtle decorations bills at L’Arc can become big number affairs – especially if you hanker for seafood. No-one complains, however. Pick from numerous types of oysters, or delve into the fish tank for the lobster of your choosing. The catchment area extends beyond the borders of Mokotów, not just because of their ‘fresh from France’ seafood, but because of classic dishes such as Mulard duck and Burgundy snails. $$

about intimacy, about bending over platters for surreptitious slurps of New Zealand oysters. It’s about decadence, about clinking glasses and toasting the moment. Most of all, it’s about authentic French style. $$

georgian Chinkali (D4) ul. Zgoda 3 Signposted by a Georgianlanguage shingle, there’s a real sense of pleasure about this place. More modern than your typical folksy ethnic outpost, Chinkali’s draw is indeed its chinkali: dough purses packed with meaty broth. There’s a genuine homemade quality to these slurpy bundles of joy, meaning that while they’re authentic, consistency can vary. And don’t miss out on the red bean chachapuri washed down with a mouthwash-colored tarragon lemonade. $ Klukovka (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 45A, klukovka.pl Jana Pawła’s pavilions are the unlikely location of this culinary beacon: amid the aggressive waft of its kebab shop neighbors, Klukova presents itself as a warming winter mouse hole filled with banter, babble and rich aromas. Specializing in the foods of ‘the east’, this means a menu inspired by the tastes of Georgia, Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan, and more. The mutton manty dumplings are great, and best appreciated with a bottle of unfiltered Lithuanian beer. That said, it’s

never a surprise to find diners ordering up bottles of Georgian vodka before proceeding to share their way through the menu. $ Rusiko (E5) Al. Ujazdowskie 22, tel. 22 629 0628, rusiko. pl Vodka shots at the ready! Rusiko finished 2015 voted Gazeta Wyborcza’s Knajpa Roku, a very public endorsement of all that they’ve done right. The food is the equivalent of a warm cuddle on a cold day – it makes you feel good in the heart and soul – and when it comes to hospitality they’re in a league of their own. Live music lends the weekends a good-humored twist. Note: closed Monday. $$

greek & turkish Bar Turecki “Efes” (H4) ul. Francuska 1, ul. Aleje Niepodleglości 80, tel. 22 898 3001 So it’s best known as a kebab shop, but when the kebabs are this good they’re well worth the listing. Either join the queue outside, or head indoors to sample the smattering of Turkish grill food and salads. $ Kumpir House (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 59, tel. 723 101 111 Ensconced inside an inviting, raw brick room Kumpir’s warming aura has as much to do with its food and drink as it does its design. Sip fragrant Turkish coffee while picking through loaded jacket potatoes that bring to mind the street stalls of Istanbul. $$

No Comment (F4) Al. 3 Maja 16/18A, fb.com/nocommentwarszawa Set inside one of those momentous towers that support Most Poniatowskiego, you don’t feel like you’re in a restaurant, you’ll feel like you’re in a film – something weird by Aronofsky or Lynch.

Seating is small and tight, set around glasstopped tables that favor form over function.

But there’s a reasoning behind this which soon becomes apparent. No Comment is all

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listings / restaurants Paros (D4) ul. Jasna 14/16, tel. 22 828 1067 Out of all of Warsaw’s Greek contributions Paros dazzles most with a glitzy look that’s a complete U-turn from the typical taverna look. Owned by the same team behind El Greco, the menu is identical, though a recent visit revealed a kitchen resting on its laurels – not one plate on our table was finished. $$ Santorini ul. Egipska 7, tel. 22 672 0525, kregliccy.pl/ santorini/ Santorini looks scuffed and tired but there’s a bonhomie present that instantly engages. The kitchen attaches no value to things like presentation, preferring instead to simply treat diners to piles of grilled and skewered food that consistently tastes right – and the milfei dessert is magic. $$ Sofra (C6) ul. Wilcza 71, tel. 731 847 731 A highly respected Turkish eatery with a wondrous beef mussaka and a wholly admirable lineup of other ethnic dishes: the lamb shashlik has never failed us. Pleasingly informal, this neighborhood redoubt feels cheerfully unforced, and it becomes an easy place to hang around in. $ Taverna Patris (G4) ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 407, tel 22 357 11 11, tawernapatris.pl This Greek restaurant is not about sophistication and finesse, it’s about truth and taste. Likewise, the interiors have no airs and graces: there’s a rough and

ready style that’s apt for noisy celebrations and familial occasions. Tawerna Patris is not about shallow details or surface appearances. Instead, it’s a place of depth, a place of integrity, a place of joy. $$

hungarian U Madziara (B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 620 1423, umadziara.pl U Madziara looks like it took two days to decorate. No-one goes here to marvel at the interiors though, they go in the knowledge that they’ll find great food at prices all bank cards can support. Chef Gabor’s signature goulash is one of life’s simple pleasures, though the service can come across as distracted and inattentive. $

Bollywood Lounge (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, tel. 22 827 0283, bollywoodlounge.pl Known for their raucous dusk-till-dawn parties, there is another less hedonistic roll filled by Bollywood: that of a restaurant. The menu is an uncomplicated, classic affair that’s an ideal primer for the party ahead. $$ Bombaj Masala (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 606 688 777, bombajmasala.pl One of the best looking Indian restaurants in Warsaw, but the food

House of Curry ul. Patriotów 11 A, house-of-curry.pl Heat seekers can ‘enjoy’ a genuine death-by-fire experience at House of Curry, though far

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Chmielarnia (B4) ul. Twarda 42 (basement level), tel. 725 010 271 Find some of the world’s greatest beers (see Nightlife) served in a murky, muggy basement. The Indian food that accompanies it is generally successful without being memorable – the beer snack menu though is great, with big points going to the spicy, chili ribs. Now also boasts a more salubrious location on Marszałkowska 10/16. $ Curry House ul. Żeromskiego 81 & ul. Hoża 54, curry-house.pl It’s not been a distinguished year for the Indian scene, with a few old favorites slackening and newcomers failing to make a mark. But hail Curry House for their continued, ceaseless brilliance. That includes the hottest vindaloo for hundreds of miles!

Evolving from a glorified hut out in far-flung Bielany (which is still going strong), they’ve recently upgraded and opened a new venue bang in the city center. $$

Loft is the perfect place to pause for a moment for a coffee, to meet with friends for lunch or a late dinner – most of all, it’s a chance to escape the city bustle while remaining in the heart of Warsaw.

rarely pokes above average. For a cuisine that prides itself on rich, intense tastes, Bombaj gets remembered for bland, oily dishes that only sometimes get finished. Yet business remains brisk, thanks in part to a combination of location and general culinary ignorance. $$

listings / restaurants milder curries are available for more sensitive palettes – either way, the experience is fantastic, and good news for those stuck out in the depths of Józefów. $$ Mandala ul. Emilii Plater 9/11 & ul. Etiudy Rewolucyjnej 9, tel. 22 428 44 54, mandalaklub. com or indiaexpress.pl Celebrating their 10th birthday this year, Mandala is well on its way to becoming a Warsaw institution. But rather than resting on their laurels, the management are using this landmark anniversary as an opportunity to rejig the menu and update their offer. Using the freshest ingredients, Mandala is characterized by its blitzing big spices and a vindaloo capable of giving the sweat glands a work out. For something calmer, the creamy mutton methi malai is a masterpiece. $$ Mr. India Al. KEN 47, tel. 22 213 0689, mrindia.pl Split on two levels the design is contemporary if a little characterless: leather banquettes that leave a sweaty bum print and wood paneling.

No problem though, if it looks bland then the food isn’t. That means an incredible butter chicken that’s deep and immensely satisfying. Then there’s the vindaloo, an experience that leaves some close to spontaneous combustion. Undoubtedly one of the best regarded Indian restaurants in this town. $$ Namaste India (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 15, tel. 22 357 0939, namasteindia.pl Responsible for first bringing quality, budget Indian food to Warsaw, Namaste have grown from humble beginnings (three tables and cooking done in a cupboard-sized space behind a curtain) to evolve into a bona fide two-floored restaurant. Consistency, however, has become a problem. Whilst we rated a recent butter chicken as the best we’ve had for years, another Insider blasts the Madras as being, ‘the worst curry ever served!’ Good luck. $$ Om (B4) ul. Sienna 86, omrestauracja.pl Indian restaurants are popping up like toast, which isn’t a problem for most ex-pats. Catering to the more budget end of the market, Om’s Nepalese chefs know their way around the kitchen. The chicken tikka masala is satisfying if nothing memorable, but the madras is something else: filled with sharp, punchy tastes that leave a lasting impression. While you get the idea it’ll never challenge the more

established Indian restaurants in Warsaw, it’s the kind of place you’d be very happy to live next door to. $ Rani Al. KEN 48/10, tel. 729 247 400, rani. com.pl Mere steps from Metro Natolin, this restaurant’s catchment area goes beyond just Ursynów. Owner Samir is a self-confessed foodie, and his vision includes a contemporary Indian menu that features pan-seared cod with turmeric, tomato salsa and mint chutney – wonderful. Rani will also please the traditionalists, with everything from creamy kormas to vindaloo’s that leave your ears blowing smoke rings. $$ Tandoor (D7) ul. Marszałkowska 21/25, tel. 22825 2375, tandoor.com.pl After nearly 20 years at the helm, owner Charanjit Walia has sold up and moved on, leaving a spiritual hole in his life-defining work. His parting shot has been a re-haul which has seen the interior modernized and brightened. Has the food suffered? Not a jot. The chicken tikka butter masala is as formidable as ever. It’s no longer the self-styled, ‘the best Indian restaurant in Poland’, but it’s deservedly retained a loyal core of customers. $$

indonesian Warung Jakarta (D6) ul. Piękna 28/34 The menu has a street foodie edge and is divided into steps wherein diners first pick out their choice of protein, then their rice, before concluding with any vegetables add-ons (e.g. pak choy, green beans or water spinach). While most Warsaw restaurants have a special lunch scheme going on, Warung’s is one that actually warrants a further look: find truly great off-menu dishes that are highly accessible to all levels of income. $

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international Aioli Inspired by Mini (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 5, aioliinspiredbymini.pl Once a gritty Stalinist leftover, Konstytucji has come a long way fast. A recent rush of bars and restaurants have aided the reintrocution of life to this concrete tundra, the most prominent of which being Aioli. Some might accuse it of being formulaic, but it’s clearly a formula that works: young and energetic,

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listings / restaurants there’s a buzz here lasts long into the night.

Food-wise, it’s a steady choice based around burgers, pizzas and other things that their age bracket appreciates. $$ Aioli (D3) ul. Świętokrzyska 18, tel. 22 290 102, aioli-cantine.com This runaway hit has taken Warsaw by storm. It’s a jaunty space with hams hanging from hooks and long communal tables that thrive with life. Aioli’s breakfasts, sandwiches, pastas and pizzas are a lesson in clean, simple pleasure: nothing out of the world, just consistently

good. This and the liberal prices mean there’s no shortage of people passing in and out the doors. $$ Ale Wino (F5) ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 628 3830, alewino.pl Dip through an archway to discover Ale Wino, a beautiful wine bar whose menu has been well tailored to the season. Tweaked for the season is the pork belly, a Złotnicka pig adorned with apple sugar snap peas and celery mousse – gorgeous. As for the wine, put your faith in the sommelier, Oliver.

Bazar Kocha (D6) ul. Mokotowska 33, bazarkocha.pl Designed to evoke the spirit of a farmers’ market, the woodsy interior is filled with stall-style units neatly stacked with jars and pots. Yet these are not decorative decoys, but part of a thoughtful grocery offer aimed at showcasing Kocha’s own-made produce. Above all though, this is a restaurant whose menu is strongly influenced by concepts of ‘terroir’.

The giant leg of lamb falls off the bone and is a dish to recommend and remember for several months to come. $$ Bez Tytułu (D5) ul. Poznańska 16, beztytulu.com Classy yet discreet, the interiors set art and photography against rehabilitated brickwork while pendant bulbs cast a soft light downwards.

The classic cooking has French and Polish accents and has so far won glowing reviews.

That’s specifically true of the mains: high caliber offerings such as beef fillet (zł.

68) with a sensual shallot sauce, mashed potatoes and crunchy onion crisps. Largely perfect, it’s a dish that feels completely right for the season. $$ Bibenda (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 10, tel. 502 770 303, bibenda.pl With its weathered brickwork and a long wavy bar occupying a significant chunk of the entrance, you don’t get much more casual than Bibenda. ‘True food’, their menu calls it, before expanding to rattle on about ‘fresh, seasonal ingredients and home-style techniques’. On our visit that involved a potato salad with red onion and parsley: basic stuff, but delicious when mushed together; next, soft duck thigh placed on top of a tangy red cabbage reduction and served with charred parsnips; and dessert, a pink beetroot cake that was gobbled in seconds. $$ Bistro Kaskrut (D5) ul. Poznańska 5, fb.com/bistrokaskrut Innovative as ever, a summer rebrand has seen Lili Filipiak (of Top Chef fame) installed as the driving force in the kitchen, the introduction of natural wines and a new focus on gastro excellence. Maintaining a hip, buzzy feel, look on Kaskrut’s evolution as a progressive sign of their growing maturity. At zł. 99, the 4-course tasting menu is remarkable value. $$ Brasserie Warszawska (E5) ul. Górnośląska 24, tel. 22 628 9423,

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listings / restaurants brasseriewarszawska.pl Looking for classic cuisine with no daft flights of fancy? Here you have it. At a time when everyone wants to be Ferran Adrià, Brasserie has both a menu and interior that you can understand: pan-fried foie gras; elegant beef Rossini; and sinful apple tarte tatin, all served inside posh interiors of zinc-plated mirrors and chessboard floors. Their Michelin Bib Gourmand is a source of pride, but it’s the number of repeat clients that are the ultimate paean to the skills of chef Mateusz Wichrowski. $$$ Bubbles (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 512 540 913, bubbles.com.pl Occupying a small, square room, it’s intimate and relaxed: a place busy with blackboards and bottles, crates and clutter.

It radiates warmth and honesty. The food is exquisite, and includes big, meaty snails farmed in Mazury, and their signature dish: Swiss-style raclette. Presented on a wooden chopping board, this cheese dish is classic melty goodness, and served alongside a pile

of potatoes, onions marinated with caramel and candied pumpkin. Considering the place doubles as a champagne bar the prices are remarkably moderate. $$

tune with the swank, glass surrounds.

More to the point, it’s given wings to a part of Mokotów that before felt quite sterile. $$

Bułkę przez Bibułkę ul. Zgoda 3 & ul. Puławska 24, bulkeprzezbibulke.pl When Bułkę przez Bibułkę was opened the idea was simple – to create a boutique version of Subway: a high quality sandwich shop people would value. But after they started serving breakfast, the whole thing snowballed into a more bistro-style offer. Now there’s a second venue on Zgoda, it’s not just the quality that’s contributed to the success, but the atmosphere as well. $$

Concept 13 (D4) ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7373, likusrestauracje.pl You’d expect a rooftop meal at Poland’s ultimate luxury department store to cost the earth, but that’s not the case. The zł. 50 lunch deal allows Joe Public to enjoy the considerable skills of Dariusz Barański. That he manages to create different pieces of art each and every afternoon is a testament to his talent – fellow chefs and foodies privately talk of him as a Michelin star in the making. $$$

Casablanca Biały Kamień ul. Żaryna 2B, casablancawaw.com.pl From the same team behind Na Lato comes Casablanca, a versatile venue that muddies the lines between café, restaurant, wine bar and hangout. Equally comfortable in each of these roles, it’s a place that feels fresh and cosmopolitan, not to mention completely in

The Cool Cat (F4) ul. Solec 38, tel. 787 698 700 Our visit featured a musical standoff between two waiters arguing over possession of the laptop, and a genuine piece of plate art that was as delicious as it looked: beautiful deer surrounded by creative ingredients.

Small menu and a fashionable crowd, but an

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listings / restaurants immensely enjoyable place that adds further oomph to Powiśle. $$ Dekant Wine Bar (F5) ul. Zajęcza 15, dekant.com.pl Not just a contender for Warsaw’s best new wine bar, but also Warsaw’s best new restaurant! The tuna tartar comes with the added ka-boom of a nose clearing wasabi, while the filet mignon (a snip at zł. 79) is simply astonishing.

The surprise are the ash-cooked potatoes, beautiful things with a char that wows. The desserts are few in number but equally outstanding: we fell in love with a passion fruit semi-freddo with strawberries marinated in Grand Marnier. $$ Der Elefant (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, tel. 22 890 0010, derelefant. com This leviathan restaurant unravels in a maze of wrought iron and monochrome tiles – beautiful to look at (it was created by Oscar winning set designer Allan Starski), it’s caused a stir for more than just this alone.

Where once the menu looked like it was devised by throwing darts at a cookbook, the focus has now been narrowed. While some of the dishes are strictly middling, the filet mignon (zł. 69) is one of the best meat deals in town in terms of quality / price / consistency. $$ Dom ul. Mierosławskiego 12, tel. 509 165 712 Here’s the very epitome of casual dining: set on the ground floor of a suburban house, the

warm corners and garden views give Dom a real sense of homey charm. In line with all that is a menu that celebrates simple, honest cooking. Everyone who visits ends up loving the place. $$ Dyletanci (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44A, dyletanci.pl Filled with crisp, modern citizens that radiate confidence, Dyletanci introduces itself as a bistro set with green banquettes and Tom Dixon lamps.

The wine selection is among the best in the nation, while the cooking has been left to Rafał Hreczaniuk, a workaholic chef with outrageous talent. His zander fillet thrills BEST WAWA 2016 with every bite. $$ “Upscale Casual” Grand Kredens (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 111, tel. 22 629 8008, kredens.com.pl This mighty veteran continues to draw a steady custom on account of a wide-reaching menu that aims to keep everyone happy – and it usually does. The design is surreal to say the least, and is laid out in such a way as to always guarantee a lively atmosphere. $$ Hala Koszyki (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63, koszyki.com Finally open after years of disruption and destruction, the launch of this food hall was the big story of Autumn 2016. Integrating old with new, this huge project brings together some 18 food outlets inside a busy interior that’s all iron girders and industrial lighting. While there’s a

feeling that there should have been a bigger focus on artisan, independent traders, that’s done nothing to dent Koszyki’s astonishing popularity. Units of note include the Gringo Salsownia, Port Royal Fish & Oyster Bar, and the Sobramesa Tapas Bar. $$ InFormal Kitchen (D3) Pl. Małachowskiego 2 (enter from Traugutta), tel. 531 918 534, informalkitchen.pl There’s plenty of fireworks over the course of a vibrant menu that sources its produce from regional eco farms: meat from within a 26-kilometer radius of Warsaw, dairy produce from Mazury and fish from Pomerania. The rump of lamb is a class act, and bettered only by the pear and thyme tart for dessert. $$ Joseph’s Bistro & Wine (B1) ul. Inflancka 4, josephs.pl Spacious and smooth on the eye, Joseph’s has the feel of a place where good things happen: and indeed they do. For starters there’s a visually enticing tuna tartar, not to mention gherkin with rhubarb and cheese. It’s frankly remarkable with all sorts of tastes popping out thanks to a marinade that involves passionfruit, chili, vinegar and maple syrup. As a main, don’t miss the duck breast: a simple thing of beauty that’s given extra vigor with a star anise demi-glace. $$ Kuchnia Otwarta ul. Klimczaka 1 (Royal Wilanów), kuchniaotwarta.pl Kuchnia Otwarta have created a swell of excitement that’s rippled way

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listings / restaurants beyond Wilanów. Why? Plotted out by Michał Molenda, the menu is a sincere work based around regional, seasonal produce: nothing contrived, nothing forced, it’s a card that roots out the very best that Poland has to offer: in winter, the wild boar stew, served in a cast iron pot, is a dark, delicious work that nourishes the soul.

La Brasserie Moderne (D3) ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8332, sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com The interior of Didier Gomez whispers intimacy, yet it also embraces notions of space and light.

The casual elegance that emanates from the design is accented by warm colors, low banquettes and glinting mirrors. Acting as a ballast to it all is an open kitchen, in which you’ll find Executive Chef Maciej Majewski honing his art. His is a menu that fits seamlessly with the surrounds: a fresh, modern look at French cuisine, but one that values clarity and simplicity. $$

stick around for some of the better cocktails found in this city. $$ MOD (D6) ul. Oleandrów 8, fb.com/MODOleandrow8 Chef Trisno’s menu sets his French culinary training against his Singaporean upbringing.

The outcome is a card (actually, a printed sheet of paper) that makes for dangerously enjoyable reading: duck hearts with beetroot / soy emulsion and braised red cabbage; duck confit with pok choy, soy / red wine sauce and spicy cranberry chutney. Moderate prices and funky décor (a retro mirrored wall,

upside down plants hanging from the ceiling) give it an ad hoc edge and plenty of character. Note: by day its Warsaw’s top donut store, so visit at night for their proper BEST WAWA 2016 “Casual menu. $$ Dining” Mokotowska 69 (E5) ul. Mokotowska 69, mokotowska69.com Set inside a rotunda at the tail end of the street, it’s a place that exudes elegance and class. Most of all, however, it’s a restaurant to be enjoyed. Brought to you by the same team credited for Merliniego 5,

Loft (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 668 016 964, restauracjaloft.pl Color, that’s what Loft has. It’s everywhere – from the design, which is all bubble shaped lights and splashy, bright cushions, to the drinks: extravagant cocktails that possibly glow in the dark.

The menu is full of playful experimentation, something reflected by a seasonal menu that has, in the past, presented such choices as chicken with strawberries. $$ Manoush (D4) ul. Jasna 10, manoush.pl It’s rare to see Beef Wellington on a Warsaw menu, and even rarer to find it executed well. But that’s exactly what Manoush manage to do, presenting prime, pink beef wrapped in a flaky, puff pastry. The rest of the international, bistro-style menu is equally fulfilling, and includes a wondrous halibut. There’s no revolution going on at Manoush, but you sense it’s a place that knows exactly what it’s doing, and is doing it well. $$ Między Ustami (E5) ul. Mokotowska 33/35, tel. 530 323 325 The design joins elements of classic Prague bordello against a London Soho bar, while the international menu features a decent steak nicely enhanced by a silky drizzle of demi-glace. With the food out of the way,

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listings / restaurants Original Indian Cuisine

Mokotowska’s appreciation of steak has been lifted from their elder sister. Yet the virtues of this restaurant extend beyond steak alone: the Insider enjoyed a volley of greats – creamy breaded calf brains, sophisticated smoked eel, and Mazurian crayfish served in a deep, joyous sauce of rowan berry and brandy. $$ Momu.Gastrobar (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 11, tel. 506 100 001, momu. pl Back open after a revamp and a rethink, the biggest talking point has been the star addition of a wood smoker imported from the States. Allegedly the only one of its kind in Poland, the menu has been adjusted accordingly to play to this strength – with this in mind, the ribs are a must-have. $ Plato ul. Klimczaka 1 (Royal Wilanow), restauracjaplato.pl Conceived as a ‘smart casual’ restaurant, it’s a reasonably compact space with a modern style and incandescent bulbs hanging from a complex cat’s cradle of interweaving wires: classy but nothing too flashy or flamboyant. Then there’s the menu, a strange work that sees Spanish influences brushing shoulders next to Polish and Asian.

It sounds silly and preposterous but my God it works. December saw us wowed by beef tartar cut from Polish Hereford, an aromatic oriental brith, and a refined halibut encircled with sage pesto, redcurrants and fresh almonds. Stunning. $$ Północ Poludnie (E7) ul. Bagatela 10, pn-pd.pl Besides the food being colorful and inventive there is a restaurant concept that works here. It has a visible kitchen, which at times is a little noisy, a beautifully designed interior, not to mention an attentive wait staff that are familiar with what they serve. $$

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a canal and park way down below? And how about when that view comes from a candle-lit reconstructed castle… Endlessly romantic, this artistic eatery comes with a light look and a creative menu. $$ Rozbrat 20 (F5) ul. Rozbrat 20, rozbrat20.com.pl Much noise has been made about Rozbrat 20’s bread and wine selection, but their food is also something of a standout. Our trip in December meant twirls of herring pickled in vinegar and herbs and surrounded by a whorl of pond green colors; expertly assembled and boisterously flavored Hungarian foie gras; and a roll of gelatinous pork with ribbons of crispy salsify and a reassuring, fleshy BEST WAWA 2016 taste. Outstanding. $$ “Upscale Casual” Sawa Bistro (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5, sawabistro.pl An unpretentious ride through largely Mediterranean cuisine with standouts including ‘Galicianstyle octopus’ and an Italian tartar with olive powder, shallots in port and balsamic vinegar and a smoked egg. The interiors are stripped to their original concrete and feature an eye-catching mosaic designed in the PRL style, as well as floor-to-ceiling windows and cheerful blue flashes. $$ Secado (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 66, tel. 608 707 799, Casual, intimate interiors complement a menu that’s expanded from its original Latin leanings. Everything we’ve tried here has been close to culinary gold, and that includes the surf & turf, tortillas and the roast beef. $$

Prosta Historia (H4) ul. Francuska 24, prostahistoria.com Informal-looking with its simple white finishes and stripped wooden floors, Prosta fills a ‘catch-all’ role of cafe/restaurant/ bar/meeting point. And it does all the aforementioned very well indeed, thanks to a skilled chef, a good drinks offer and a continental atmosphere that’s all life and good humor. $$

Soul Kitchen Bistro (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 18A, soulkitchen.pl If the previous venue was all slanted towards low-pitched business conversation then the new one is positively festive in comparison: scuffed brickwork, tall bar stools, a long communal table, etc. The seasonal menu is a pick-and-mix of small-to-medium plates, including a halibut gravlax, whose delicate taste juxtaposes well against the rougher, earthier kick of the radish, and crayfish presented in a bird’s nest of green beans, fennel and leek. For mains, look for the braised beef. $

Qchnia Artystyczna (E6) Al. Jazdów 2 (Zamek Ujazdowski), tel. 22 625 7627, qchnia.pl Even on a cold, ashen day, can you question a view that spills down onto

Stixx (A4) Pl. Europejski 4A, tel. 22 340 4040, stixx.pl It’s east to distrust a menu with such international diversity, but the kitchen crew really

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listings / restaurants make it come together: the Indian section is particularly outstanding. Then there’s the design, a balance between slick corporate and sexy cosmopolitan: with the Warsaw Spire towering above it outside, it’s the kind of address to take any new arrival who still thinks of Poland as being backward. $$

part it is, but the whole truth is that it’s so much more. A complete upgrade from their original joint in Mokotów, the real attraction is an enticing page of more-ish, meaty mains: oxtail, beef cheeks and other snips of bits and offal. $$

italian Strefa (C3) ul. Próżna 9, tel. 22 255 0850, restauracjastrefa.pl There’s a swan white elegance here, with lots of pristine colors and smart, smooth-talking service. What a refreshing change. Chef Jarosław Walczyk favors sous-vide techniques, and his is a magic, masterful hand – his duck is flawless, and the homemade ice cream with seasonal fruits is quite a follow-up. $$$ Warbuger Na Żelazna (B4) ul. Żelazna 58/62 The easiest mistake one can make is to think this is a burger joint – in

Ave Pizza (E3) ul. Topiel 12, tel. 22 828 8507, avepizza. pl The argument over who serves Warsaw’s best pizza goes right to the wire, but there’s no doubting that Ave Pizza are up there on the leaderboard. Set across a sparse, metropolitan area, this fashionable L-shaped joint comes endorsed by the capital’s notoriously picky Italian community. Order the pillowy calzone and you’ll soon learn why. $ DaCurio (E3) ul. Tamka 45A Although it looks small and humble DaCurio have made quick work of amassing an enthusiastic following. Credit

for that rests with the Roman-style pizza that comes sold by the slice. Made using Italian oils and flour, the pizzas here deserve the adulation they’ve received. $$ Delizia (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 22 622 6665, delizia. com.pl The sheer proliferation of Italian restaurants lends an element of chance to dining out: cut through the noise by visiting Delizia, a place that’s consistently topped polls ever since it launched in 2010.

Lorenzo’s cooking is upscale Italian with a contemporary twist, and comes presented by Luca, an ebullient ball of energy who patrols the floor with sparkling good humor. In the hands of these two an unforgettable night comes guaranteed. Top quality imported products, a dimly-lit romantic atmosphere, a tasteful design and faultless food: no wonder so many rate this as their favorite Italian. $$ Dziurka od Klucza (E3) ul. Radna 13, tel. 500 150 494, An inviting Italian restaurant in which curious doors sit

SAINT VALENTINE’S MENU Surprise your loved one with a truly magical Valentine’s Day dinner date at a charming French brasserie in the very heart of Warsaw.

Especially for this occasion our executive chef Maciej Majewski has created an exquisite menu composed of love inspiring ingredients such as oysters, caviar, figs, truffles, samphire and chocolate.

The menu is available from 10 to 14 February 2017 at PLN 350 per two persons for food only or PLN 395 per two persons with two glasses of champagne and a selection of hot and cold beverages to complement your dinner.

RESERVATIONS: Email: brasserie.moderne@sofitel.com Tel.: +48 22 657 83 82 Visit us Mon.-Sun. midday to 11pm | Królewska St 11 | 00-065 Warsaw

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listings / restaurants embedded into the walls, as if waiting to be opened by the keys that hang on the tree outside. Striking a lavender look, the magic of this restaurant is affirmed by its wonderful pasta and intimate style. $$

Enoteka (C1) Rynek Nowego Miasta 13/15, enotekapolska.pl This L-shaped space feels completely correct: tall ceilings, big windows, marble floors and an overwhelming sense of light and sun. The mood is good. Food matches the serious wine list and includes a rich topinmabur soup, creamy Agnolloti pasta and a hearty steak. These are not attempts at a kitchen revolution, rather a concentrated focus on a menu that makes sense. $$ Focaccia (D2) ul. Senatorska 13/15, tel. 22 829 6969,

focaccia.pl The Insider’s visit went something like this: wrist-thick octopus with an arc of yellow mousse, conversation stopping beef tenderloin alongside a glistening pool of madeira sauce and then an orange ice cream with caramel and ginger that soon merged into a big gooey brew of chocolatey mess.

The only surprise is there’s no Italian in the kitchen – it appears they don’t need one.

This is seriously talented cooking inside an interior that fresh and light and reflective of the food. $$

Ristorante San Lorenzo (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 36, tel. 22 652 1616, sanlorenzo.pl Adorned with crisp, starched linen and Roman frescos this space is almost magisterial in design. The Tuscan menu is flawless and well worth the rather hefty bill.

The wine bar on the ground floor features the same standards at a snip of the price, and it’s here you’ll find Italian natives cheering the Serie A football. Now also on Żurawia 6/12, only with a more modish design clearly targeted at a slightly younger audience. $$

Mąka i Woda (D4) ul. Chmielna 13A Purists applaud an approach that uses a custom-made oven from Naples and imported ingredients such as 00 Caputo flour and DOP certified San Marzano tomatoes. Scrupulously authentic, it’s no wonder that it’s packed to the gunnels every night of the week – even their Facebook page warns of 20-minute waiting times for a table alone. Learning this, some storm off in a huff – they need their heads checked, for this is Warsaw’s best pizza. $

Sexy Duck Pl. Konstytucji 3, tel. 22 400 3737 Marketing themselves as a ‘craft Italian kitchen’, Sexy Duck make a song and dance about artisan this and that while never justifying their own hyperbole. Were they not so keen to tell you otherwise, you’d mistake the food as being something from a mid-market high street chain enterprise. But if their pizza never goes beyond ordinary, that’s done nothing to keep trade from being brisk. Inside interiors filled with aged, raw materials, find a new

www.focaccia.pl tel.: +48 22 829 69 69, ul. Senatorska 13/15, Warsaw/Old Town restauracja@focaccia.pl, fb.com/restauracjafocaccia

New Menu

Aperitivo Bar

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listings / restaurants generation of diners making the most of the low, low prices. $

Outside of the realm of the grill, the sushi is also strikes the right spot. $$

winner in the sushi wars of the noughties, then Sakana was it. $$

Si (C3) ul. Marszałkowska 115 From the makers of Secado comes a new downtown venture: Si, a fun Italian stop with homemade pasta, an array of pizza and a hefty choice of cocktails.

Geared towards good times, a list of rotating daily offers has done a fair job of drumming up trade. $$

Omami (D5) ul. Mokotowska 29 (enter from Krucza) Sushi has been side-lined and ramen is rising.

Opened a few months ago, Omami promise four types of ramen, not to mention steamed buns and other budget-minded Japanese options. $

Sato Gotuje ul. Pawińskiego 24 Ochota’s culinary drought is over, and in some style as well.

While the plain interiors look bald and boring, the cooking of Satoru Yaegashi is all art and precision: braised duck breast with mustard; fried sardines with roasted sesame seeds; and heaps of homemade udon in warming fish broth. Often outstanding, it’s little wonder that people are arriving in droves from all across town: bookings aren’t mandatory, but they’re definitely advised. $$

Trattoria Murano (B1) ul. Pokorna 2, tel. 516 754 300, trattoriamurano.pl Boosted by a number of new real estate projects, Muranów is in the midst of an unlikely renaissance. A direct knock-on has been the birth of numerous restaurants, though few can compete with Trattoria Murano. Looking dapper with its zigzagging brick patterns and circular lights, the good mood is further enhanced by a highly credible menu that scores well on the Italian classics. $$

japanese & sushi Benihana (C4) ul. Twarda 2/4, benihanapoland.com Fire, flash, show and sizzle: the Benihana experience merges cooking with cabaret with diners sat ringside around teppanyaki grills.

These cooking stations are the stage for the Benihana crew to demonstrate their riveting range of nifty knifework and daredevil antics.

Om nom nom (D5) ul. Kurcza 41/43 Japanese meets Mexican: if there’s a more unlikely culinary marriage, then we’ve yet to hear it. Set inside a colorful, wacky space, the specialty here is the sushito, a long sushi wrap filled with the likes of sweetcorn, jalapenos and chicken panko. In the words of one established restaurateur, this is ‘a place for rich kids who don’t have a clue about food.’ That said, it hasn’t stopped the place enjoying massive local success. If you like your eating habits to break the norm, then you could well enjoy it. $$ Sakana Sushi Bar ul. Burakowska 5/7 tel. 22 636 0505, ul. Moliera 4/6, tel. 22 826 5958, & ul.

Wąwozowa 6, lok.10B, tel. 22 498 8899, sakana.pl Sushi as a fashion statement?

That’s what you find in Sakana, a place where the glam and the great of Warsaw peacock around with feathers on display. Ignoring the general vanity and unpleasantness, one can’t help but applaud the sushi – if there was one

Shabu Shabu Hot Pot (D6) ul. Mokotowska 27, tel. 535 685 750, shabu-shabu.pl Each table has its own set of hot pots installed and once you choose your broth and extras, you are the master of your own culinary destiny. We chose some seafood and some greens and were served a dish that was not quite a pad thai, but incredibly tasty all the same. A simple meal, but satisfying nonetheless. $$ Shoku (A4) ul. Karolkowa 30, shoku.pl In local terms, this has to be amongst the most blogged about restaurants of the year thus far. While it actually opened several months back, it’s only now that the place is gathering steam and getting recognized thanks to word-ofmouth. In truth, it’s not hard to see what the fuss is about: occupying a cool, almost

Happy Valentine’s Day! - With Love from Le Cedre (authentic Lebanese Cuisine)

Le Cedre 61

opposite the zoo Al. Solidarności 61, Praga Tel 22 670 11 66

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Le Cedre 84

opposite the court Al. Solidarności 84 Tel 22 618 89 99

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2017

Le Cedre Lounge New Location opening soon at ul. Gryzbowska 5a

www.lecedre.pl

listings / restaurants industrial-looking spot not far from the Rising Museum, Shoku offers an excellent menu of Asian-style tapas and small plates inside a buzzy background that’s never short of custom. The tuna steak is recommended. $$ Sushi Zushi (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 420 3373, sushizushi.pl The mania for sushi is in recess, and that’s a good thing – the rogue operators are dead or dying off, and are survived by the best. And make no mistake, Sushi Zushi continue to be one of the No. 1 ex-pat choices. Appreciated by a stunning crowd, the rolls are often bold, creative and always astonishingly fresh. $$

Tel Aviv (D5) ul. Poznanska 11, restauracjatelaviv.pl Although this multicultural melting pot is best-known for its Israeli street food, it’s the shift towards ‘vegan fine dining’ that has really caught the attention. $$

korean Miss Kimchi (B4) ul. Żelazna 58/62, tel. 570 186 066 Cheap and cheerful Korean street food served in a small, steamy space that’s frequently packed

to the rafters. Box sets come piled high with meat, rice and veg. The spotlight falls on the bibimbap, a satisfying mess of shredded veg, lively spices, a fried egg and beef bulgogi.

This is replenishment in its truest form. $ Onggi (D2) ul. Moliera 2 Positive transformations aren’t confined to Ramsay’s Kitchen Nightmares: after a dreadful start characterized by bland, claggy dishes, this Korean restaurant has spun a U-turn that’s left the competition reeling. The menu is daunting in size, but contains wildly interesting finds such as a streaky

Uki Uki (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, tel. 728 827 705, ukiuki.pl How much do the locals appreciate Warsaw’s original udon bar? Enough to queue outside the door? That’s right. Dining is a close quarters experience here, but is done so without complaint: that electric pasta maker turns out noodles of such chewy goodness that everyone leaves beaming. $$ Wabu Pl. Europejski 2 (Warsaw Spire), wabu.pl Sushi becomes a heaven’s gate spiritual experience in Wabu with the evening passing in a blur of beautiful compositions, of silky slithers of fish crowned with expert pinches of this, and little brush strokes of that. That’s all elevated even further by deliciously upscale interiors befitting of the Spire location. $$$

Wasabi Pl. Piłsudskiego 2, tel. 22 314 6963, restauracjawasabi.pl Rated as one of the best value for money deals on sushi you’ll find in the city, the sets offer phenomenally good value. Sushi master Masahiro Ueyama knows all the tricks in his book, and his green tea tiramisu is a surprising finish.

jewish Pod Samsonem (C1) ul. Freta 3/5, tel. 22 831 1788, podsamsonem.pl Operating since the 1950s – crazy when you think about it. This is the place for an ordinary meal in an ordinary space. The menu mixes aspects of Polish and Jewish cooking, and fails to do a good job of either. $

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listings / restaurants bacon stir fry, spicy pickled Daikon radish and lotus root simmered in soy sauce. $$

shared bonding experience, it’s even better with copious quantities of Makkoli wine. $$

Sora (A4) ul. Wronia 45 Always bubbling with South Korean customers, their reassuring presence affirms Sora’s reputation as the top Korean restaurant in town. Set in a garish new apartment block, the menu here is as close too authentic as you’ll find in Poland, and includes a fiery kimchi salad as well as an interesting bibimbap: a vegetable mix served in a spicy sauce. Most of all though, you simply have to sample the table grill: a

latin & spanish Casa Pablo (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5A, tel. 22 324 5781, casapablo.pl “We give Spanish food a new twist,” declares chef Gonzalo de Salas, which explains why, in between pungent cheeses and acorn-fed Bellota ham, we find ourselves demolishing a variety of dishes that buck all notions of tradition: as a starter

the beetroot-marinated salmon served with wasabi emulsion is a fine example of this.

With de Salas performing balletic tricks in the kitchen, Casa Pablo presents a masterful menu that ripples with adventure. $$ Ceviche Bar (C4) ul. Twarda 4, cevichebar.pl Created by the award-winning Martin Gimenez Castro, Warsaw’s first specialist ceviche bar serves up various interpretations of this classic raw fish dish: the corvina is an explosion of peppy, citrusy tastes and leaves you in no doubt why some are tipping ceviche to become as big as sushi. Try for yourself inside a contemporary space in which the dining area merges seamlessly with a kitchen decorated with a mural of Maradona. $$ Tapas Gastrobar (A4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 251 1310, tapasbar.pl The engaging design features scuffed timber tables supported by rescued factory metal, open ductwork and elaborate floor tiles of Iberian persuasion. But the food is what everyone is talking about: the first class gazpacho, prepared onsite then served in a bottle, is full of refreshing zing, while the beef cheek is pure melty tenderness.

Our favorite, though, are the patatas bravas, perfectly fried potatoes served in a ballsy tomato sauce. Just amazing. $$

mexican Dos Tacos (D4) ul. Jasna 22, tel. 22 243 4618, dostacos. pl Who doesn’t like asking for something that’s ‘under the counter’. In the case of Dos Tacos, doing so means inquiring about their range of ‘salsa clandestinas’: extra hot sauces designed for reckless thrill-seekers.

But the true secret weapon at Dos Tacos is Isabel Balderas, a Mexican chef that has mastered the bright, bold tastes of her native country. This cuisine has enjoyed a breakout year in Warsaw, but while the millennials clamor over new food trucks and funky little start-ups, Dos Tacos is a timely reminder that the old guard sometimes know best. $$ Gringo Bar (E9) ul. Odolańska 15, tel. 22 848 9523, gringobar.pl A Mexican wave is upon us, and high time too. After years of suffering frozen ingredients, timid flavors and daft Mariachi music to persuade us it’s all authentic, a raft of new cut-price eateries are showing

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AU T H E N T I C P O L I S H C U I S I N E

Krakowskie Przedmieście 64, Warsaw Krakowskie Przedmieście 64 tel. +48 22 826 47 70 email: info@delicjapolska.pl www.delicjapolska.pl Reseva7ons:

listings / restaurants the rest how it’s done. Cooked and folded by fist bumping lads in back-to-front caps and baggy t-shirts, the food at Gringo is fiery, fresh and full of zing. There are detractors who claim this is a Polonized version of this cuisine, but the informal Gringo remains one of the market leaders. $ La Sirena (D5) ul. Piękna 54 Apparently inspired by the ultraviolent films of Danny Trejo, the design finds a middle ground between a traditional cantina and El Chapo’s jail. The menu includes creamy Kermit-colored guacamole, cocktails that are both vicious and delicious, and ‘drunken beans’ full of heart and vim.

Does it get better? Yes, particularly with the ‘short ribs burrito’ and a readjusted ‘almost death’ salsa that’s finally learned to say POW. This is the best Mexican food Warsaw is ever likely to see. $$ Loco Mexicana (A6) ul. Grójecka 27 Everything looks a little second-hand, smudged and smeared. Even

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the menu is little more than a rumpled pile of papers. And there’s the colors: heavy purples, paintings of Mariachi men and brightly colored throws. It doesn’t improve with the food, which is stodgy, limp and generally lifeless. That their lunch deal consisted of Russian pierogi says all you need to know about this supposed Mexican. The reprieve comes in the form of 12 or so beer taps serving a decent selection of punk beers. $

Warsaw’s top burrito. Offering fillings of pork, beef, chicken and Portobello mushroom, wraps come expertly constructed and served with salsas that sing with gusto. Set within shouting distance of the US Embassy, peak times see Urban Burritos fill to the seams with America’s finest. $

Maria Kolendra ul. Puławska 246 The most likable trend of the past year? That’ll be Warsaw’s growing mania for Mexican food. Set in a small ‘pavilion’ building out in the Służew boonies, such is the authenticity that Maria Kolednra’s loyal band of devotees see nothing wrong in traipsing across the city for a taste of Luis and Armando’s tacos and burritos. $

Falafel Bejrut (B2) ul. Nowolipki 15 Light, bright and buzzing with custom, this cheerful venture has a small scattering of seating and an expanded menu whose talking point is award-winning falafel.

The hummus, too, is pretty amazing. $

Urban Burritos (D6) ul. Piękna 22, urbanburritos.pl It’s here, in this unassuming subterranean world, that people gather for what is being hyped as

middle eastern

Falafel Bejrut Moliera 8 (D2) ul. Moliera 8 So what would you prefer – an underperforming steakhouse or what’s commonly regarded as the best falafel Warsaw has ever seen? In all truth, polls are closed on that one. Taking the place of the defunct Muu Muu restaurant, Falafel Bejrut

listings / restaurants have grown from life as a ‘food bike’ outside Hala Mirowska, to a runaway juggernaut in the heart of Warsaw. Both the falafel and hummus are exceptional, and you’ll find their latest venue also serving artisanal vegan ice cream from Vegestacja. $ Le Cedre (E1) Al. Solidarności 61, tel.

22 670 1166, www. lecedre.pl With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops. $$ Le Cedre 84 (B3) Al. Solidarności 84, tel.

22 618 8999, lecedre. pl Le Cedre just keep on getting it right.

Authenticity is key in

this chainlette (well, there’s another across the river), as you’ll discover when talking to Tony, the Lebanese owner. To see the diversity of this cuisine, order the balbaak (six cold starters) or the byblos (six hot). And food aside, it’s the atmosphere that carries them that extra yard: the whole philosophy of this cuisine is to share and share alike, making it a uniquely engaging experience when dining with friends. $$ Samira ul. Powsińska 64a, tel. 22 825 3363, samira. pl There was something a little seedy about Samira’s old location, but that’s all forgotten in their new digs on Powsińska. Find this great Lebanese supermarket filling a dual role as an authentic restaurant serving authentic dishes such as kafta and shawarma. $$ Shuk ul. Grójecka 127 Located behind Hala Banacha in this gradually blooming district of Warsaw, SHUK’s certainly worth the tram ride if you’re not a native Ochotian. An offshoot of

the acclaimed Mezze, highlights on our visit included a well-seasoned Arabic soup with lentils and spinach followed by a skillet of fried oyster mushrooms cooked with onions and served alongside harissa topped with rose petals. You’re looking at quite a special place that realigns your mojo on a Warsaw winter’s day. $ Sokotra (D5) ul. Wilcza 27, tel. 22 270 2766, sokotra.pl It says a lot for Warsaw’s developing tastes that it can now house a successful Yemeni venture. Bathed in chatter and chaotic kitchen sounds, Sokotra is an informal place with Indian twists on the menu, and a card that encourages plenty of plate sharing. $$

pancakes Manekin (C3) ul. Marszalkowska 140, tel. 22 826 0753, manekin.pl Originally founded in Toruń, this pancake house chain is a national

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listings / restaurants phenomenon – there are times when queues for a table snake outside. The menu touts dozens of pancake options served in sweet and savory form (there’s even a spaghetti version…), though not everyone agrees they’re worth the often silly waiting times. $

polish

Ale Gloria (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7080, Who said romance was dead? Here wedding white colors are fused with a strawberry motif inside this gourmet fave. Keeping patrons returning are aromatic dishes with a contemporary twist – try the duck in rose sauce. $$$ Bez Gwiazdek (E3) ul. Wiślana 8 Hide the white tablecloth! One of the more discernible trends of 2016 saw chefs attempt to replicate fine dining standards but in casual surrounds. Few are more qualified to do so than Robert Trzópek, a man whose résumé includes experience gained in Noma and El Bulli. Seeking to ‘reinterpret forgotten Polish cuisine’, his tasting menu at Bez Gwiazdek leaves no doubt why local food fans repeat his name with reverence and awe.

For this restaurant, 2017 promises to get even bigger. $$

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Czerwony Wieprz (Red Hog) (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 22 850 3144, czerwonywieprz.pl Shush! Big Brother is watching in the Red Pig, but the beady-eyed tyrants who stare down from the portraits do little to impede the sense of revelry. A cheeky celebration of days of yore, this commie-themed restaurant is always great fun. The menu is a humorous affair divided between dishes for the proletariat and the dignitary. Another vodka, comrade, and the first secretary’s pork loins while you’re there! $$

Delicja Polska (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 64, tel. 22 826 4770, delicjapolska.pl Looking stately (pink bows, gilt touches and immaculate linen) but never stuffy, Delicja have a modern Polish menu that includes sous-vide salmon marinated in beetroot leaves, then topped with horseradish foam and dill emulsion.

Brilliant. But then so was everything else we tried, including the exquisite seasoned roast beef. $$ Dom Polski (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 2432,

restauracjadompolski.pl Almost like it was designed for the manor born, Dom Polski has the rarefied atmosphere of a country retreat: bow-tied staff who click their heels, decorative antiques and a menu that’s a sumptuous anthology of posh Polish cooking.

When you need to give visitors a sense of classic Warsaw, Dom Polski is the first out of the hat. $$$ Dom Polski Belwederska (F8) ul. Belwederska 18A, tel. 22 840 5060, restauracjadompolski.pl Accessed via curling pathways and bursting shrubs this restaurant conjures images of an aristocrat’s manor. The air of privilege matches a menu that’s rich in fanciful classics such as their signature goose. Elegant and exquisite, consider it your default choice for a taste of true Poland. $$

RESTAURANT &

VODKA

AT E L I E R

Elixir by Dom Wódki (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl The dashing interior causes you to stop, look and touch. On one side, a gleaming bar with twinkling bottles, and on the other, a smart series of rooms whose ash-colored tones are punctuated with dashes of copper. The menu has a traditional heart yet a contemporary style, and includes golonka to make the heart flutter: glorious slow-cooked meat alongside horse radish ice cream and a creamy cabbage mousse. The vodka pairing menu is essential! $$

listings / restaurants for simple food and local drinks. $

Folk Gospoda (B3) ul. Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605, folkgospoda.pl Be honest, sometimes all you want to do is slather lard on a big hunk of bread before surrounding yourself with little shots of ice cold vodka. You wouldn’t call it cultivated, but there are occasions when a good knees-up around a rough wooden table is exactly what’s required.

And while you’re there, why not add platters of meat to the scene, a crackling fireplace and a mountain band. Folk Gospoda do all that making them the default favorite for a traditional night out. $$ Inny Wymiar ul. Świętokrzyska 14 Highly imaginative Polish cuisine served inside intriguing interiors. Much blogged about since opening, it’s been noted by many as one to watch. Full review coming soon. $$ Jaś & Małgosia (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 57, tel. 502 033 711, klubjasimalgosia.pl Insouciant one moment, your best friend the next, the staff at Jaś & Małgosia show the two faces of Polish service brilliantly. Reactivated a couple of years ago, this gem has a story dating back to the 60s, and a great atmosphere primed

Kafe Zielony Niedzwiedź (E4) ul. Smolna 4, tel. 731 996 006, kafezn.pl Exceeding all expectations in their second year, the Green Bear has turned into the mothership for all things relating to slow food: if in doubt, check the menu, an ode to provenance that comes complete with detailed biographies of their suppliers.

Using creative techniques, this restaurant modernizes Polish food and rolls it out inside a stylish building popular with people who look like they might well be famous.

Incidentally, the sea buckthorn cream was our top dessert of 2015. $$ Kieliszki na Próżnej (C3) ul. Próżna 12, tel. 501 764 674, kieliszkinaproznej.pl You’ll find Kieliszki na Próżnej, the latest restaurant to mark the rehabilitation of Próżna, so named after the 1,116 wineglasses that hang tantalizingly over the bar. As an anchor feature the suspended glassware is arresting, and equaled only by a long stretch of wall art doodled by Mariusz Tarkawian. The food matches up to the interiors, with a modern Polish menu that – on our visit – involved a thick, brilliantly spreadable foie gras pate, a thick slab of brawn and a delicate piece of moist Baltic cod. It’s pure seasonal comfort. $$ Kmicic (D1) ul. Piwna 27, kmicicrestauracja.pl Aiming to evoke the spirit of pre-war Warsaw, Kmicic

is something of a veteran on the Old Town circuit, and as such a perennial favorite of passing tourists. The menu leans heavily towards traditional and is noted for its game including pheasant, venison and boar. $$ Mała Polana Smaków (F9) ul. Belwederska 13/44, tel. 22 400 8048, polanasmakow.pl Put simply, it works on every level: from the service to the space – outside, a terrace featuring upcycled crates overlooking Morskie Oko, and on the inside, a cute little room with woodsy bits and big glass jars of mystery ingredients. It’s casual, but still fit for more serious roles: e.g. girlfriend night. And the food: exceptional.

Lots of seasonally changing choices that on our visit meant salmon sausage matched with beetroot and horseradish sauce along with pinches of lavender and fennel. $$ BEST WAWA 2016 “Modern Polish” Opasły Tom (E4) ul. Foksal 17, kregliccy.pl Sneaked off a lively street, guests duck down into a chain of two narrow-ish chambers that, whilst not exactly casual, feel comfortable and familiar. Agata Wojda’s cooking is sublime, and on our latest trip include a gentle goose confit rested on pumpkin puree and prune sauce and a smoked trout mousse full of unexpectedly vivid flavors. It’d be easy to write this off as just simple stuff done well, but you know that’s not the case: if it really were that straightforward, everyone would be pulling it off. $$

PRESENTING THE MOST BEAUTIFUL RESTAURANT IN POLAND

Al. Ujazdowskie 24, tel. 22 629 2312, www.podgigantami.pl

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listings / restaurants Papu (D9) al. Niepodległości 132/136, tel. 22 856 7788, restauracjapapu.pl The elegant décor sees wood-paneled walls lined with champagne bottles, making it an experience that is at once intimate and romantic. Chef Bartek Kędra’s menu is specifically strong when it comes to white and red meats: order the beef rib. It’s a massive, brutal instrument that could be used to club someone to death. Falloff-the-bone good, this Flintstone monster is seriously memorable. Other courses are more sophisticated, and include a knee trembling, lipstick red strawberry tartar. $$ Prodiż Warszawski (D5) ul. Poznańska 16, prodizwarszawski.pl Street of 2016? That’ll be Poznańska, hands down. Joining the slew of last year’s new openings is Prodiż, a brick-lined den with bold pops of color and retro-vintage touches that evoke ‘old Warsaw’. Fittingly somewhat, the menu is an updated look at traditional Polish cuisine: the tartar is a true work of brilliance. $$

Restauracja Pod Gigantami (E5) Al. Ujadowskie 24, tel. 22 629 2312, podgigantami.pl All pomp and splendor, huge portraits of monarchs in ermine stare down from the walls; pristine parquet floors gently creak underfoot; from another chamber, the sound of clinking glasses whispers through the air. Yet as much as the interior makes an impact it fails to steal the show. That belongs to Paweł Zieliński, a chef whose biography includes a stint at the Michelin starred L’Ecrivain in Dublin.

Now back in Poland, his menu is a patriotic proclamation of all that is good. It’s here the Insider enjoyed it’s favorite żurek of 2016.

For mains, don’t miss duck with cherry and cranberry sauce. $$$ Restauracja Polska “Różana” (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 22 848 1225

The rarified atmosphere of Różana is a pleasure indeed. Close to the frontline of Mokotów / Śródmieście, you’d never guess the proximity of the center. Seated in their garden, one feels removed from the city – a fountain burbles quietly in the background, starlings hop around the trees. From the inside, one hears the distant tinkle of the house pianist. Just being here is a thrill in itself, and the food is a Polish dining extravaganza served from the top table: farmhouse duck, saddle of venison, etc. $$ Solec 44 (F4) ul. Solec 44, tel. 798 363 996, solec.waw.pl Beaver tail one month, carp heads the next.

Combing the farms and forests of Poland for his ingredients, chef Aleksander Baron’s menu is a daring exploration of his nose-totail philosophy with many of his methods reprising extinguished traditions. It’s a real experience, and one that’s enjoyed inside a spontaneous looking, cut-price interior that clacks and clatters to the sound of grown-ups playing board games. $$

THE DELICIOUS WORLD OF POLISH CUISINE Discover the delicious world of Polish cuisine at Specjały Regionalne. We source our produce from family-run farms so only the most authentic tastes end up on your table. We also offer classes and workshops that reveal the secrets of the Polish pantry!

44 Nowy Swiat Street, Warsaw +48 662 254 215 restauracja@specjalyregionalne.pl, www.specjalyregionalne.pl

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listings / restaurants It’s for the pierogi though for which they’re famous; find approx. fifty types delivered by servers dressed like saucy country maids. $

Specjały Regionalne (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 44, specjalyregionalne.pl To step across the threshold is to leave Warsaw behind: mimicking the look of a rural pantry, Specjały is awash with provincial craft work and traditional dress. A truly ethnographic journey, the menu whisks diners across Poland with its choice of classic dishes and regional ingredients: there is heavy, meaty soup served in a hollowed out hunk of bread; snails farmed in Warmia; and a warming beef goulash that hugs the soul. The commitment to small town Poland extends to the alcohol, and no visit is complete without a stiffening drop of vodka. $$ Stary Dom ul. Puławska 104/106, tel. 22 646 4208, restauracjastarydom.pl A classic restaurant in style and history: back in the day it was a favorite haunt of jockeys and race goers from the horse track nearby. Pre-war recipes form the basis of the menu, with the team using seasonal produce and the latest technology to bring out its best. $$ Varso Vie (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 2, varso-vie.pl Despite the concrete color palette Varso Vie retains a good buzz. It helps that on one side guests are flanked by punchy bursts of modern art, and on the other, an open kitchen that’s all clamor, commotion and general rumpus.

The menu is modern Polish: duck stomachs in a flaky puff pastry with a thick smear of thyme sauce; Baltic trout served on a pinkish mush of red lentils and mint; and a coveted meringue mousse with mascarpone and passion fruit jelly. Exemplary. $$

Zapiecek Locations inc. ul. Nowy Świat 64, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska 13, tel. 22 635 61 09, & ul. Wańkowicza 1, open 11:00-22:00, CH Arkadia, zapiecek. eu Seven Warsaw locales, with our favorite found in the vaulted passages of Świętojańska. The menu is highly traditional, with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’.

Zielnik (D10) ul. Odyńca 15, tel. 22 844 3500, restauracjazielnik.pl A quiet Mokotów side street is the setting for this little secret. In it, flowers, lots of them, and a warming wood interior just right for winter. In summer, head instead to their glorious garden across the street in the park: adding a sophisticated twist to the holy grill, the skewered lamb is to die for. $$

seafood L’Arc (E8) ul. Puławska 16, tel. 519 000 050, larc. pl You sometimes suspect Warsaw doesn’t give seafood the respect it deserves. But the city’s shortcomings are atoned for by L’Arc. Choose from the lobsters swimming on Death Row, then settle back for a meal to die for.

Likewise, the oysters, crab and mussels never disappoint. $$ U Rysia (C4) ul. Marszałkowska 140 (enter from ul. Rysia), urysia.com.pl Devoid of frills bar a glowing neon sign and a brooding mural of Jesus, it looks like a Polish fish restaurant should – basic but with an undercurrent of bustle that keeps the mood bright. It tastes like the real thing as well. Sourcing their catch from the freshwater lakes of northern Poland, the offer is divided into fish that have been smoked, steamed, fried or baked. Check out the perch ‘chips’ fried in batter. $

‘Simplicity, elegance and atmosphere’

Cafe • Wine Bar • Restaurant • Whisky Bar • Wine Cellar ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 515 037 001 www.hoza.warszawa.pl www.facebook.com/hoza25 Open 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-21:00

Zmiana Klimatu (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, zmianaklimatu.pl An interesting looking restaurant that affords diners the chance to climb up some steps and eat inside a boat. The food, frankly, is a different league: a thick, throbbing lemon soup poured carefully over a dust of crayfish; two slithers of seabass layered onto a creamy black risotto; and steak served under a glass dome billowing with Cherrywood smoke.

Everything we tried was stunning. $$

steak houses Butchery & Wine (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 502 3118, butcheryandwine.pl The Sarf London-born Bertha oven www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / restaurants has revolutionized the way steak is cooked, retaining moisture in a way no-one thought possible. Expect robust pieces of animal full of big, brawny tastes, but there’s so much more than just meat: starters involve a sea bass ceviche that pings with citrusy flavor not to mention more-ish pork crackling that pop like fire bangers in the mouth. A place of energy and ambition, it’s a great mix of both new and classic. Bookings advised. $$ Hoża (D5) ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 603 778 275, hoza. warszawa.pl Wine and steak: it sounds so simple, but Hoża have taken two simple pleasures to another level. It’s an ebullient space with service right out of charm school, and a kitchen team with a real knowledge of cows. A red-blooded affair, the menu is a steak sensation and well paired with a handpicked wine list. $$ Merliniego 5 (E10) ul. Merliniego 5, tel. 22 646 0810, merliniego5.pl A classic looking steakhouse that swirls in shadow, brickwork and elegant touches, it’s a place to immerse yourself in an atmosphere that’s all surreptitious conversation and distant clinking glasses.

The steaks are out-of-this world, with USDA prime beef from New York’s legendary Ottomanelli & Sons and Scottish beef from London’s Smithfield Market. On our last visit we splurged on the Grade 9+ wagyu ‘kobe’ rib-eye and found ourselves eating the steak of a lifetime. Simply amazing. $$$

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Salto (C6) ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8771, saltorestauracja.pl When Martin Gimenez Castro scooped top prize in the Top Chef program it simply confirmed what foodies had known for years: that this is a man of some talent. Now leading the kitchen in Salto, the highlight of Castro’s menu is undoubtedly the ‘steak weekends’. We challenge you to find better. During the week opt instead for his South American inspired dishes. Salto has the hallmarks of a success story, and under Castro’s captaincy that’s a certainty to happen. $$$

thai Thai Me Up (E4) ul. Foksal 16, thaimeup.pl Taking the spot once occupied by Papaya, Thai Me Up offers up a far more informal experience than the former, something understood by one glance at the interior: gone are the gloss finishes of yesteryear, replaced by something far more casual, fun and cluttered (check the monkey lights!). As for the food, that succeeds in bringing the fresh, snappy tastes of Asia to Foksal. The wok dishes are a forte and deserve special attention. $$

Thai Thai (C2) Pl. Teatralny 3, tel. 601 818 283, thaithai. pl In terms of design it’s little short of perfect: gold vaulted interiors lend a muted glow to a largely black on black space while serene looking Buddha’s peer on the diners below. As for the food, that’s one big success story with plenty of lively flavors and dynamic colors. The Tom Yang Kung, a deeply nourishing fish broth that awakens the senses with a sharp, spicy jolt, is a must! $$ Thaisty (C2) Pl. Bankowy 4, tel. 730 000 024, thaisty. pl The coup here has been the recruitment of Chanunkan Duangkumma, Warsaw’s favorite Thai chef. The menu has street food inspirations and also includes several recipes passed down Duangkumma’s family line: consider the BBQ beef skewers essential. Vivid colors and a busy open kitchen lend the place a happy buzz that lasts through the day. $$ Why Thai (E5) ul. Wiejska 13, tel. 22 625 7698, whythai. pl A calming, almost holistic interior sets the tone for a meal dominated by the rich and aromatic tastes of Thailand. For a lively, spicy start begin with a mango and cashew salad, before moving forward and onto their celebrated curries. Imported chefs keep the flavors authentic, with the pad Thai being something of a house favorite. $

HOMEMADE PASTA AND ITALIAN DISHES COCKTAILS

DJ EVERY WEEKEND

ORGANIC AND VEGAN WINES LIVE MUSIC

EVENTS

Ristorante & Cocktail Bar Si - Marszałkowska 115, Bank Square, Warsaw, phone: +48 507 099 190 e-mail: kontakt@restauracjasi.pl. For more info go to facebook.com/ RestauracjaSi

cafes & wine bars NEW & NOTABLE

bakeries Aromat (C4) ul. Sienna 39, fb.com/piekarnia.aromat That many consider this their favorite bakery says it all. French flour and an expert baker ensure brilliant results, while the lemon éclairs deserve their own Facebook page.

Café Vincent (D3) ul. Nowy Świat 64 Queues build quickly as locals line up to buy baguettes, cinnamon rolls, lemon croissants and beautiful pains au chocolat. But people don’t just head in then out, a small wine list and brilliant people spying opportunities cause many to hang around.

BAGEL CITY GANG (ul. Koszykowa 30, fb.com/Bagelcitygang) Here’s a mystery for you then: how is it that so many in Warsaw will tell you they love bagels, yet the city is unable to support a specialist store dedicated to them?

In the past, all such efforts have fizzled then failed. Bagel City Gang are looking to rewrite history, and their chances look good – set inside a small unit on upcoming Koszykowa, there’s a focus and clarity to their mission that’s backed up by quality homemade bagels with quirky fillings and gangland names.

Paul Various locations, boulangeries-paul.com Specializing in pastries, baguettes and other baked goods, this French chain have rapidly entrenched themselves in the capital following their debut last year.

Rozbrat 20 Bakery & Wine Corner (F5) ul. Rozbrat 20, rozbrat20.com.pl Best known for fathering Butchery & Wine, Daniel Pawełek makes his mark on Powiśle with the launch of Rozbrat 20, a high-end bakery that’s worthy of the rave reviews. Aside from baguettes, muffins, croissants, etc. this smart corner unit has a superb wine list and a smattering of main courses that include flat iron steak.

desserts Crepe Café (E3) ul. Dobra 19 Is there such a thing as the perfect pancake? If not, then Crepe Café certainly comes close. Enjoy them in a contemporary interior that’s tiny in size: grab a seat up on the mezzanine level.

THE ZOOPA (Ratuszowa 2, thezoopa.pl) After a frosty walk through Park Praski this is exactly the kind of place you’d hope to find. Strong white color schemes are offset by copious shrubbery, contemporary seating and plenty of natural light, giving Zoopa a look that feels fresh and upbeat.

Adding to that is a smart menu, craft beers, a children’s corner and a busy roster of events that includes workshops, exhibitions and screenings. Seemingly, they’ve thought of everything.

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Cukiernia Stary Dom ul. Puławska 104/106, restauracjastarydom. pl A beautifully elegant confectionary that evokes memories of Old Poland. Flock wallpaper and checkered floors add to the high tea ambience, as do the lines of glinting bottles and a counter stocked with temptations. Pastry chef Mariusz Palarczykow is a king in his field.

listings / cafés & wine bars La Vanille (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22 There was a time when it felt like Warsaw was eating nothing but cupcakes.

Though the trend has died off, La Vanille haven’t – and for good reason. Here are cupcakes that could compete internationally.

Miodowa Cafe (D2) ul. Senatorska 13/15, miodowa-cafe.pl Gone are the days when Warsaw’s dessert / pastry shops were communist relics overseen by half-mad old bats. The rise of upscale dessert stores continues unchecked with the latest, Cukiernia Miodowa, possibly the most exciting launch thus far. Offering five-course ‘dessert tasting menus’, truffles, tarts, pralines and Warsaw’s first cronut, expect to be hearing a lot about this operation in the coming few months.

MOD (D6) ul. Oleandrów 8 Warsaw has always loved donuts, but it took the arrival of MOD to elevate this humble doughy vice to new levels with a glam New York-inspired makeover. Top tip: the Mango is heaven.

Odette (D4) ul. Górskiego 6/07, odette.pl Almost holistic in its ambience, the obstacle-free interior utilizes aspects of space and light, causing attention to naturally fall on the long, sleek counter that occupies one end. It’s here that sweet creations glimmer behind glass like precious little gems.

Sucre Various locations, see: sucre.pl While Sucre are best known for their ice cream, outside of summer people flock here on account of their dazzling macaroons.

cafés Bułkę przez Bibułkę ul. Puławska 24 & ul. Zgoda 3, tel. 794 000 634, bulkeprzezbibulke.pl There’s a feminine style to this cafe, what with its cute, girly pastels, petite plant pots and woodsy finishes. But no matter what your gender or age, there’s something immediately sunny and positive about this place. Slow food sandwiches arrive on wooden boards, there’s pretty homemade desserts and a careful choice of wine: falling in love with it is easy.

Być Może (E7) ul. Bagatela 14, tel. 519 000 014, bycmoze.

com.pl It’s all about artisan bread and breakfast in the industrial looking Być Może. It’s taken the concept of Charlotte (groan, there’s even a communal table), and improved it with excellent breads and a crowd that’s a little less pleased with itself and a little more normal.

Charlotte Menora (C4) Pl. Grzybowski 2, bistrocharlotte.pl If the air is smug and self-satisfied, there’s a good reason for that: Charlotte have come to embody modern urban Poland: energetic, ambitious and ferociously trend conscious.

And to think, some look at it as a mere bakery. Occupying a long space, the latest outpost of this café chain doesn’t overlook the area’s Jewish heritage, with the menu featuring several Jewish delicacies: the bagels are pretty good.

Cophi (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60 Deviating away from ‘the Warsaw look’ (i.e. concrete, pipes, etc.), Cophi is the kind of place you actually want to stay in: homey and intimate but at the same time light and modern. You can sense the thought and passion behind this operation from the staff – find them using Aeropress, Chemex, siphon and drip methods with almost scientific precision in their quest to serve you what some are already claiming to be Warsaw’s best coffee.

Czuły Barbarzyńca na Piwnej (E3) ul. Piwna 20/26, czuly.pl A Parisian-style bookstore full of steps and wobbles, nooks and alcoves. All agree there’s something special here: maybe it’s the book selection – varied, esoteric and at once compelling.

Or maybe it’s the atmosphere, such that browsers anchor themselves on the sofas to lose an afternoon with their nose in a novel while sipping drip coffee. Whatever the secret ingredient is, the bookish bustle makes it the most extraordinary literary hangout in the Polish capital.

Francuska 30 (H4) ul. Francuska 30 An attractive modern cafe whose primary talking point is the terrace: a colorful affair shaded by dozens of umbrellas dangling from above.

Kafka Café (E3) ul. Oboźna 3, kawiarnia-kafka.pl A chessboard floor and a collection of antlers on the wall characterize Kafka, a bookstore / café whose literary collection is composed

of paperbacks rescued from recycling plants.

Books are purchased by their weight (zł. 10 per kilo) while the menu includes pancakes, pastas and even doggy treats for your mutt.

Kawiarnia Fabryczna (E3) ul. Fabryczna 28/30, open 7:30-22:00, kawiarniafabryczna.pl Penning your memoirs?

Here’s the place to do so. With its natural wood floors, muted lighting and retro style chairs, Fabryczna is just about the definitive Powiśle café. Order an Ethiopian drip coffee and get that notepad out.

KluboKawiarnia Towarzyska ul. Zwycięzców 49, klubokawiarnia.net Urban cool penetrates Saska. With an interior modeled by John Strumiłło, this 50s pavilion has an ascetic design defined by polar white interiors. Contrast is provided downstairs, with deep magenta walls and retro armchairs.

Concerts, screenings and art happenings have made it into something of local cultural mainstay.

Kos (D4) ul. Chmielna 9A Kos is a place intent on stitching the neighborhood together. That much is made clear by a diverse events calendar that features a panoply of activities: yoga courses to weekend brunches via the occasional kid’s improvisation class. As commendable as these social actions are, it’s the basics that Kos do so well. Drenched in natural sunlight, perch on the windowsill and enjoy swift wifi, award-winning coffee and a menu of homemade snacks and bits. Find it inside the Jewish Community Center.

Mała Ziemiańska (D7) ul. Oleandrów 2/4, malaziemianska.pl Sat as it is on a street that’s become the Center of Now, Mała Ziemiańska is a pleasing throwback to slower times. Designed to evoke the artistic spirit of the mid-19th century, this warming café is steeped in shadow and curiosities. A celebration of pre-war Warsaw, the literary pretensions of this bolthole find the walls clad with archaic books and sepia photos of the city that once was. May places like this flourish.

Ministerstwo Kawy (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 27, ministerstwokawy. pl Sourcing their coffee from Koppi, an internationally acclaimed Swedish roasting house, the ministry takes no short cuts in their pursuit of excellence. Utilizing Ethiopian, Costa Rican and Brazilian arabicas – some www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / cafés & wine bars exclusive to Poland – barista Wojciech Rzytki has earned a reputation across Poland for his expert hand. Rave reviews are standard and appropriate in this standout cafe.

MiTo (D6) ul. Waryńskiego 28, mito.art.pl Café, gallery, bookstore. Of course, we’ve seen that concept before, just not done in this style. Stark white backgrounds are offset by edgy art, lending the place a Tate Modern feel, something accentuated by the earnest fashion students who gather through the day. And there’s the toilet, a futuristic affair with piped music and a mirrored wall.

Niezłe Ziółko Café & Deli (D5) ul. Krucza 17 A shrine to pure and healthy eating, this friendly café doesn’t just brew a great coffee, but bakes its own bread and produces its own yogurt. Sit in the loft to look down on shoppers scurrying to Mokotowska, and on the way out, check out ‘Grandma’s Cupboard’ in the corner: jams, spreads and olive oils are there to buy for home.

Odette Tearoom (C4) ul. Twarda 4, odette.pl If you thought those living in Warsaw’s swankiest residential tower – the Cosmopolitan – had it tough, then you’ve got one more reason to envy them: the ground floor Odette Tearoom.

Taking its lead from their original dessert stop on ul. Górskiego, the sister venue peddles glorious cakes and pralines as well as a hand-picked selection of boutique teas served in a fragrant and elegant atmosphere.

Relaks (E9) ul. Puławska 48 Generally travelling by tram for a cup of Joe sounds excessive, but that’s exactly what you’ll be doing on discovering Relaks. Expertly prepared, right down to the foam art, the baristas here use the finest imported machines and work only with fair trade, ‘specialty’ coffee. If you have time, the drip coffees are more than worth the wait.

The interiors supply a retro accent, and are lapped up by a very fashion aware crowd.

Same Fusy ul. Nowomiejska 10 Suffused in a candle-lit glow, this 15th century cellar unwinds to reveal a charming brick room suspended in time. Filled with gnarled wooden oddities and tree stump tables, the sweet aroma of fragrant teas helps amplify the fairy tale mood.

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Secret Life ul. Słowackiego 15/19 You might already be familiar with Secret Life of Things, a fab design store on the other end of town. Now the same minds have expanded their offer to include this café, a delightful spot that opened in summer. The deckchairs outside may have gone but the hype lingers on: an eclectic design marries a Scandinavian look to an eccentric spirit, while unpasteurized beers, organic teas and a locally sourced menu do the rest.

Stół ul. Nowolipki 17C Poor Muranów – while the rest of Warsaw joined the foodie revolution, Muranów was left looking at everyone else having fun. There is hope, and much of it is based around Nowolipki. Opening just days after Falafel Bejrut, Stół have created a buzz of their own thanks to a small menu of pancakes (both sweet and savory), sandwiches and homemade cakes. A place of genuine homely goodness, locals are already proclaiming it as the kind of place the area has lacked.

Stor (E3) ul. Tamka 33 Small but perfectly formed, Stor has all the clack and clatter of a busy local café. Regional beers, Chemex and Aeropress coffee and gluten-free snacks and sandwiches provide plenty of reason to pop in and idle about.

Wars i Sawa (E3) ul. Dobra 14/16 Creaking floorboards, unfinished plastering and piles of books set the tone to this ‘culture café’. It’s exactly what you’d expect of Powiśle, and the sort of stop best enjoyed on your own with a pot of tea, a dog-eared novel and your tightest skinny jeans.

Wrzenie Świata (E4) ul. Gałczyńskiego 7 Those with journalistic leanings love Wrzenie Świata. It’s definitely more Macbook than Moleskine, but this bookstore/café attracts plenty of readers (and writers) to its book-lined interior.

Buzzing like a cafe should, it packs out for slideshows and seminars.

juice bars Juice Press People ul. Bracka 18 Sick and tired of being sick and tired? This two-level cubbyhole offers

an easy way to cleanse and detox the body: cold-pressed from organic, locally sourced fruit and veg, find an array of juices lined up on parade in the fridge, as well as a variety of coffees that make use of chemix, aeropress and drip techniques.

Think Love Juices (H4) ul. Francuska 14 Nutrition nut and supermodel Anna Jagodzińska reveals the secrets of her diet in this white-clad, summery-looking Saska café. As the name indicates, juice plays a massive part in that, with the rotating choice presenting a range of drinks that run from watermelon water all the way up to complex concoctions that ignore any shortcuts. The daily lunch deals are superb, but leave you in no doubt just why models are so skinny.

wine bars Ale Wino! (E5) ul. Mokotowska 48, alewino.pl At first you think you’re walking into a car park. And then, it hits you – a beautiful inner-city sanctum with wooden decking, a slanted sail shielding the sun, and bespoke, funky chairs from the esteemed Studio Rygalik. You want to dwell here for a bit longer than planned: and there’s no harm in doing so. One of the Insider’s favorite wine bars, Ale Wino’s food is also top-notch

Bristol Wine Bar (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmiescie 42/44 Effortlessly evoking a real sense of history, the design is a triumph with lots of polished brass and nickel, rich wood finishes and marble floors. You feel like you’ve stepped into a film. And the wine choice is prodigious: offering a complete cruise through the wines of the Old Continent and the New World, the collection is precisely presented from behind glass cases that line the walls.

Charlotte (D6) ul. Aleja Wyzwolenia 18 (enter from pl.

Zbawiciela), bistrocharlotte.com It matters not if you’re easily traumatized by the catwalk parade that is Charlotte. Open from seven on weekdays, it’s the place for a morning croissant. And if you’re armed with the latest Apple technology, all the better – join the other posers at the communal table. Located on Warsaw’s most happening roundabout, there’s no better place to indulge a hangover with a spot of eavesdropping than inside this boulangerie/wine bar.

listings / cafés & wine bars Dekant Wine Bar (E3) ul. Zajęcza 15, dekant.com.pl Set inside an attractive open space, the opening of Dekant is a further indication of Powiśle’s shift from hipster epicenter to upscale playground (Robert Lewandowski has been spotted here!). The list comprises over 400 wines from the most prestigious producers in the world, right the way down to tiny, little vineyards you’ve probably never heard of. If the sun is out, aim for a place on their back terrace.

Dyletanci (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44, dyletanci.pl Often filled to capacity with crisp, modern citizens that radiate confidence, join them on green banquettes illuminated with Tom Dixon lamps. The wine list is fitting of the A-list, and aside from exceptional international choices, also includes interesting wines from the proprietor’s own label – a frankly superb Polish brand called Dom Bliskowice.

Enoteka (D1) Rynek Nowego Miasta 13/15, enotekapolska.pl It’s the wine bar New Town has been waiting for ever since… the old Enoteka closed. The eagerly awaited return brings with it a new location – right on the corner of New Town Square and a wine list from curated by importer Maciej Bomboł.

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Hoża (D5) ul. Hoża 25a, hoza.warszawa.pl You’ll probably know Hoża as the home of steak. But what is meat without wine? complementing the Argentine-inspired cooking is a wine list particularly dense with reds.

Kieliszki Na Hożej ul. Hoża 41, kieliszkinahozej.pl Already celebrated for their operation on Próżna, this latest branch continues in much the same vein: classy interiors, a prime location on one of Warsaw’s few surviving pre-war streets and a casual bistro vibe matched up against a glorious Italian influenced wine list. The concise food menu connects local Polish to classic French and adds an interesting modern twist.

Mielżyński Wine Bar (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, mielzynski.pl Robert Mielżyński, a Canadian-born oenologist, awakened Warsaw’s love affair with the grape when he launched Mielżyński in 2004, and it continues to serve as the accepted benchmark to which all wine bars aspire.

Their cause is amply boosted by a fine selection of bites to accompany the superlative wine offer. Find it in a pared down warehouse that emanates casual city cool.

Mielzynski Wine Bar (G9) ul. Czerska 12, mielzynski.pl After three years in the pipeline Warsaw’s second outpost of Mielżyński is everything you’d expect: the concise menu is never too complex while

the exciting wine choice presents over 500 labels. This vibrant warehouse-style space promises much.

Wine Taste by Kamecki (C4) ul. Twarda 2/4, winetaste.pl Run by Piotr Kamecki, President of the Polish Association of Sommeliers, this beautiful glass-fronted unit functions both as a wine bar and store offering expert advice, cellar design and tastings.

WinKolekcja (E10) ul. Olkuska 7, winkolekcja.pl The selection of New World wines is exceptional, though classicists are also catered for via an extensive choice of Spanish, French and Italian wines. Their highly recommended restaurant provides further reason to linger inside a design that has the routine look of a club class lounge.

Winosfera (B3) ul. Chłodna 31, winosfera.pl Once a pre-war cinema, now a stunning wine bar / store with one of the most impressive collections in Poland: an expense account comes in handy.

Equally notable is the ambitious fine dining menu of Jakub Adamczyk. Żurawina (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34, zurawina.eu Both food and wine score highly, and they’ve earned a staunchly loyal following that includes high flying types and Paris Hilton wannabes that carry yappy dogs in their bag.

The award-winning Enoteka Polska is back, this time with a new location in the heart of Warsaw’s historic New Town.

A perfect combo of restaurant, wine bar and wine store, aside from offering excellent Italian cuisine, we are a renowned importer with a portfolio of prestigious wine labels from across Europe. Our direct import policy allows guests to enjoy outstanding value for money.

Rynek Nowego

Miasta 13/15, enotekapolska.pl

tel. 882 048 012

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nightlife NEW & NOTABLE

12ON14 JAZZ CLUB (ul. Noakowskiego 16, 12on14club.com) Warsaw has a rich tradition of jazz, so you have to sometimes wonder, just where the hell are all the jazz bars? In 12on14’s case, down a courtyard and through a side entrance.

Dark, smart and sophisticated, here’s a place that’s fitted out with framed portraits of sax tooting masters as a well-stocked bar area decorated with quotes from jazz legends. Open from Tuesday till Saturday, evenings see local and international musicians take to the stage.

bars & pubs The Alchemist (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 3, thealchemist.pl How about this then: a tap bar that skips the problem of people bugging the bar staff with stupid questions with a self-service ‘beer wall’. As for the choice, it’s not crazy-radical, but it is interesting enough with plenty of decent sips that all drinkers can understand.

There’s more to like about this particular Alchemist: long and narrow, the design is modern yet full of little details and eccentricities – it feels edgy enough for pre-club drinks, smart enough for business lunch and comfortable enough for all those times in between.

Beirut (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, beirut.com.pl As hip as ever, Beirut has walls dusted with cult album covers, documentary posters and witty graffiti inspired by Banksy. Busy in the day, and absolutely packed at night, order unconventional beers from androgynous staff standing behind a sandbag bar decorated with silver hand grenades and a model tank.

Bohemia (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, bohemiarestaurant.pl As welcome as the global beer reformation has been, it has had its drawbacks: namely, the number of snobs and zealots found leering over pineapple stouts and impossible IPAs. Sometimes you just want a normal bar with good, clean lager. Bohemia is that place.

This is a Czech bar for modern times: stylish interiors of glass and wood and a so-called ‘tank system’ that maintains the beer’s freshness. Try the ‘Mliko’, a full pint of creamy foam that can be sunk in a swig.

SZCZYT WSZYSTKIEGO (ul. Tarczyńska 5/9, fb.com/szczytwszystkiego) The unpronounceable name aside, this ranks as one of the more foreign-friendly bars you could wish for. Inspired by the owner’s passion for mountains and adventure, this large two-level space is adorned with Tibetan prayer flags, globes, photo exhibitions and a mural of a mountain conquering hero. Though clearly assembled on a budget, there’s a personal touch here that gives it the kind of warmth you long for in a neighborhood cafe/bar.

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Bollywood Lounge (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, bollywoodlounge.pl Now on Nowy Świat, the team have used the opportunity to upgrade their offer: gone is that low-rent feel of old, replaced in favor of a more classy look and a slicker crowd.

What has remained constant is the energy.

Ace cocktails (recommended: Jim Ban Chili), tottering talent and a range of sheesha pipes make it a weekend must, though the big news is the completion of their downstairs club: check it out for the bright, banging beats of the Bollywood sound.

listings / nightlife Bubbles (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, bubbles.com.pl Despite sounding like a 90s small town nightclub, Bubbles is in fact a worthy place of note: a small, warm venue with a slow food menu and a design that incorporates lots of upturned crates and dusty bottles. Champagne is the main draw here, with many labels that are exclusive to Poland. Some come with terrifying prices, but on the whole the price points are widely accessible: wine from zł. 10 and a flute of champers from zł. 29.

Central Bar (ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki)) Downers include annoying piped music, chairs bolted to the ground and the overriding feeling you are, in fact, drinking in the middle of a food court. And why aren’t there any ashtrays outside? Only once you get your head around all of that can you start appreciating the Central Bar: the beer (supplied by Bierhalle) is fine, and you do get the buzzy sense that you’re in the middle of something that’s captured Warsaw’s imagination.

Elephant Belgian Pub (C1) ul. Freta 19 Signposted by a jolly, dancing elephant, this Belgian pub presents its cause the moment you enter – there’s twenty or so taps laid right out in front, and to the left a fridge that’s expected to top out to cover 200 beers. The design is basic – brickwork, beer kegs and varying ephemera of the brewing trade – but it doesn’t need that much more: it’s about the beer, after all.

Hard Rock Cafe (C5) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), hardrockcafe.pl Full Throttle cocktails, lively staff and a classic rock soundtrack: the energy of HRC is hard to find fault with. And on the rare occasion there is a lull in the night, use the opportunity to sniff around memorabilia that includes a black leather number once worn by Madonna.

Kraken Rum Bar (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, fb.com/KrakenRumBar Named after one of the ocean’s most feared mythical creatures (the scary squid from Pirates of the Caribbean), the wood-clad Kraken features a wall of cymbals, heavy furniture and some interesting photography.

While there’s some decent bottles of rum, there’s perhaps not enough to justify calling it a rum bar. The house beer rocks though.

Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, legendsbar.pl Legends is

slowly achieving legendary status amongst the expats and Anglophiles. Their cause is helped by touches like a segregated smoking room, proper darts board, Sky Sports and a traditional menu that’s as authentically English as the Downing Street cat. Presiding over it all is Graham, a seasoned expat and Everton nut.

Między Nami (D4) ul. Bracka 20, miedzynamicafe.com With 18 years of service under their belt you may think of Między Nami as being an antiquated has-been. Not so. Haunted by a mix of media types and local characters, this hip white piece of post-commie Warsaw has an enduring, almost timeless appeal.

Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’ (D4) Enter from ul. Nowy Świat 26 Approximately twenty bars occupy a series of low-budget prefabricated cabins, presenting possibly the highest density of bars in the capital: in summer, it feels like one big street party.

Adding to the gentle sense of confusion comes the realization that so many bars look the same – accessed through clattery, barred doors, visitors walk into what can only be described as murk. Klaps, with its dildo beer taps and phallic walls, is probably the most well-known of the lot.

Oleandrów 3 (D6) ul. Oleandrów 3, fb.com/oleandrow3 Exploring themes of decadence and fallen splendor, this new opening cements Oleandrów’s status as one of Warsaw’s rising streets. Looking dark and disheveled, this busy nightspot is already earning a name for libertine shenanigans. The blackboard menu touts an unlikely combo of ‘hot dogs and champagne’ – watch others follow suit.

Plan B (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), planb.pl Plan B is the very essence of dive Warsaw. Weekends pass by in a raucous blur, with the party spilling out under the colonnades outside – it helps to look like a DJ, but in truth everyone is welcome. The hangover from this shabby, grubby bar is traumatic.

Pozytywy (D7) ul. Oleandrów 3 Oleandrów’s rebirth as Warsaw’s axis of cool continues with the opening of Pozytywy, an interesting bar apparently owned by a sound engineer – hence a design that mimics a recording

studio. In terms of drinks, it’s probably the most varied selection in the vicinity, with their proposal covering a choice of wines on tap, and dozens of bottled beers from Poland’s new generation breweries. As cool as the interior might be, it’s the terrace that’s the best place to enjoy these.

Solec 44 (F3) ul. Solec 44, solec.waw.pl A ghastly commie-era pavilion is the unlikely home of this Powiśle mainstay. The food – a gloriously gory celebration of nose-to-tail cooking – is spot on, but so too are the drinks. The bottled beers reflect the exciting times in the Polish brewing industry, but forego these in favor of a stunning cocktail list that makes use of seasonal ingredients and homemade syrups and mixes. The design of Julian Karewicz, these are drinks that stop you in your tracks: the sea buckthorn vodka sour is pure boozy bliss.

Stixx (A4) Pl. Europejski 4A, tel. 22 340 4040, stixx.pl It takes a moment to allow the sheer magnitude of Stixx sink in. Having adjusted to the wow factor of the interior – which can best be described as cosmopolitan-industrial – most retreat to the long, all weather deck which in itself is quite something: the aesthetics are such that a cocktail party on an oligarch’s yacht comes to mind. There aren’t many better places for a drink when the roof is rolled back and the stars twinkle down.

Warszawa Powiśle (E4) ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B, warszawapowisle.pl The prime months for this former ticket booth arrive each summer when the deckchairs outside provide ample opportunity for the city’s young and fashionable to gather in an almost carnival-like atmosphere. Once seen as the hipster Center of Power, it still maintains great popularity with whiskered, tattooed sorts.

clubs Backstage Studio (A3) ul. Chłodna 35/37, backstagestudio.club Snuggled into a row of shabby cabins mostly rented to sex shops and gambling dens, Backstage feels secretive and clandestine.

In spite of that, it’s earned a name among the younger generation as one of the best spaces in Warsaw for electro, minimal and techno nights (check their Facebook for www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / nightlife upcoming events). Rather bigger than it looks, step downstairs to find chaos unfurling in a labyrinthine basement.

Luztro (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, luztro.pl Feeling naughty?

Luztro enjoys a reputation for libertine behavior and illicit pharmaceuticals. Dark, grim and grotty, this after party stalwart gets going at about 4 a.m. on weekends, when troglodyte club creatures emerge zombie-like to dance way past sunrise. Jaw grinding, rib rattling electro has never felt better.

No Comment (F4) Al. 3 Maja 16/18A, Most Poniatowskiego Found in one of the towers that prop up Most Poniatowskiego, a ‘sense of unknown’ manifests itself inside this weekend’s only club, a bi-level area whose small size adds to the air of mystery and exclusivity. Away from the prying eyes of Joe Public, find glittery, local celebs getting down and naughty.

Sen Pszczoły ul. Grochowska 301/305, senpszczoly.pl Famous, infamous or a bit of both? Moving from their temporary digs in the Koneser Factory, the new-look Sen Pszczoły is every bit as murky as the previous: amid a heavy industrial background, find partygoers enjoying a mixed bag of events that range from didgeridoo performances to full-on techno that makes fillings pop out.

Smolna 38 (E4) ul. Smolna 38 One of the most secretive clubs there is: operating a strict no-pictures policy, being caught taking a selfie is a crime punished by expulsion – and how good is that! Attracting a hardcore crowd, its a place of real sounds: forget the joke DJs most clubs settle for, Smolna’s agenda has thus far included the likes of Simian Mobile Disco and Ellen Allien.

Mokotowska apartment has been re-adapted as an exclusive bar frequented by leggy models and society figures: the parties are nuts! Unmarked from street level, to enjoy the inventive cocktails message them on FB and await your invite.

THE MOST

Bar & Books (D2) REFRESHINGLY CIVILIZED LACES TO MEET ul. PWąski Dunaj 20, barandbooks.pl Seen CIGARS & WHISKY through ≈a thin autumnal mist, this white WINE & CHAMPAGNE townhouse radiates warmth: lights glimmer, ≈ COCKTAILS & CUSINE piano music tinkles. Wood-paneled and lined ≈ TASTINGS with leather-bound tomes, there’s a sense ≈ PRIVATE EVENTS of dignity ≈ that’s unique to Warsaw’s cocktail LOCATION SHOOTS scene.

There’s humor, as well, courtesy of PODWALE BARof ANDchimps BOOKS portraits togged out like 18th Wąski Dunaj 20, 00-256 Warsaw Tel.: +48 gentry.

225.599.199 century Similar to a members’ only Mayfair bar, find ‘classic with a twist’ cocktails mixed and muddled by the sort of charming bartenders you’d trust serving Bond. While bills can become weighty affairs, no one regrets the spend – plus, you can smoke here as well!

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Bardziej (E5) ul. Marszałkowska 21/25 (enter from V O L i n Y a P Oleandrów) Its thanks to places like Bardziej www.barandbooks.pl that Oleandrów is becoming one of the most talked about streets around. This split-level bar does a good job of capturing the essence of the area, with inventive ‘author’s cocktails’ matched against a warm, dimly lit interior that’s heaving with cogs, metal hooks and enigmatic dials. The later it gets, the better it is. n

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The View (C4) ul. Twarda 18, theview.pl Sat on top of the Spektrum Tower this bar/club has reinvented the whole concept of going out in Warsaw.

A truly world-class venture, the open-air deck on the 32nd floor offers striking views of the cityscape, first rate cocktails and an international rotation of DJs. No other club nails the champagne lifestyle with quite the same panache.

10% discount* WI/XII-II

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cocktails 6 Cocktails (E5) ul. Mokotowska 57 If 6 Cocktails has the feeling of hanging around someone’s flat that’s because, actually, you are. This posh

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Charlie ul. Mokotowska 39 Arguably the best and boldest opening of the year, Charlie presents thrilling cocktails inside an interior that wouldn’t be amiss in Manhattan: there’s even a fountain! Being rich and pretty is almost a compulsory criteria.

Column Bar (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44 (Hotel Bristol) Just the look of Column Bar sweeps you off your feet; there’s something breathlessly classy about it, like you’ve just entered Gatsby’s ballroom. You want to order a pyramid of champagne and dance on their piano. Behave, and order a cocktail instead.

For a taste of the classics, the Column Bar is pretty peerless.

listings / nightlife Fokim (D5) ul. Krucza 24/26 To like is an edgy interior that includes a neon that urges customers to ‘eat, drink, dance, riot’ and an Asian-inspired drinks list that features sake on-tap, shots with names like Karate Kid, and cocktails with proper verve: e.g., the Marry Me, a bonkers, bastardized version of the Bloody Mary that’s actually better than the real thing.

Karowa 31 (D3) ul. Karowa 31, warsawbarproject.com Warsaw’s original speakeasy grants access via a retractable door disguised as a VHS collection – how cool is that!? Maze-like in layout, the retro-looking Karowa 31 unravels to reveal a series of chambers concealed in shadow, though for all that the cocktails are the real draw: masterful creations composed by a dreadlocked Dane called Bram.

Kita Koguta (E5) ul. Krucza 6/14 Free from the pompous prattery of Bar Max down the road, there are times in Kita Koguta where sitting at bar level is like watching Dexter’s Laboratory: the staff aren’t afraid to get imaginative, and that includes serving cocktails in smoking coconut husks. Not all the experiments go as planned: on our last visit, a basic Bloody Mary was turned into an alcoholic carrot flavored fizz.

Kiti Bar ul. Krucza 6/14 With Warsaw shivering blue in the harsh winter frost, is there a better time to be welcoming the city’s first tiki den? That’s Kiti, a raucous bar drawn up by the owners of the nearby Kita Koguta.

Dominated by a tall Polynesian totem, this ray of sunshine gets noted for extravagant cocktails served by game staff in zany shirts.

ties particular to this era are abundant (nonsensical wall paintings featuring fairies and fantastical creatures) and are matched against deep forest colors and copious wood and leather. It’s Lewis Carrol meets Phileas Fogg, with suitably creative cocktails to boot.

Palmier (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12 Here, class and high times are in abundance inside an interior that’s all cool stone and pot palms. But it’s the narrow terrace that promises to be the place to be seen: join and enjoy the ‘Warsaw scene’ alongside a crowd that’s been compared to a Ralph Lauren billboard (even Robert Lewandowski has been spied here!).

Panorama Sky Bar (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, panoramabar.pl The Marriott’s 40th floor Panorama has had a couple of incarnations: first, as a glitzy Dynasty throwback, and then, more recently, as something that could have passed for a business class airport lounge. Now it’s been reinvented once again, only this time successfully: find slick, vibrant interiors redolent of London matched up with modern cocktails and twinkling views.

The Roots (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 11 Cluttered with shiny props and pieces rescued from the early days of cocktail making, The Roots could pass for a Victorian era curiosity shop. Looking past the eccentricities that comprise the interior, it’s become famous on account of irresistible

drinks mixed and muddled by dapper experts that aren’t so much barmen as they are craftsmen.

Varso Vie (D6) Pl. Konstytcuji 2, varso-vie.pl A cool bar / restaurant decorated with art that’s both sensual and suggestive. Behind the bar, homemade syrups, seasonal ingredients and high caliber alcohol are all present, but so to the most important component: the staff who can handle them. Try the Polish Colada: involving Bols Natural Yogurt, Pawlina vodka, pineapple, lemon and sprinkling of chocolate, it’s a superb drink that does a grand job of rehabilitating a largely derided classic.

Weles (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 11, welesbar.pl A swing of the door takes visitors plunging down a blacked-out stairwell and into a basement that emerges from the darkness like a decadent Tsarist relic: glinting chandeliers glimmer over deep leather sofas, their subtle light casting a glow over an immaculate clientele. Befitting the venue, the artisanal cocktails are a work of elaborate craftsmanship, and incorporate everything from elite liquors to strips of bacon and flower petals.

At weekends this place rocks when DJ Trent gets onto the decks.

Woda Ognista (E5) ul. Wilcza 8, wodaognista.com Woda Ognista evokes the jazzy air of a Chicago, Prohibition

Lazy Dog (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, lazy-dog.pl For the cocktail bar, visit a small side room that’s attractively decorated with lots of copper fittings, hanging filament bulbs and high-quality bottles.

The cocktails number around ten house specialties with names like Long Island Nice Tea and Have You Been A Good Girl.

Między Ustami (D6) ul. Mokotowska 33/35 With the celebrated Hendrick’s gin so prominently pimped, it makes sense that the quirky design of Między Ustami is more in line with a Victorian apothecary than anything else. Peculiari-

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listings / nightlife era speakeasy with a seriously stylish interior that includes a colossal collection of vintage cocktail shakers that glint behind glass. The drinks themselves, rattled up by dapper gents in braces and flat caps, are split between house creations and reprised classics from a bygone era. Some are more successful than others, and it’s a credit to the staff that they’re willing to take comments on board and adapt their precious recipes to suit fussy tastes.

all began. Summer catches Warsaw’s original tap bar at its best, with the courtyard of the former Communist Party HQ now home to an entirely different kind of party: on occasions find food trucks and film screenings, and all other times just a massive crowd getting sloshed on 15 types of tap beer. But even outside the sweaty months Cuda is worth the visit: drink inside a modern, glass cube that’s refreshing contemporary.

Zorza (D4) ul. Żurawia 6/12, zorzabistro.pl Slotted inside what was once Café 6/12, Zorza embellishes the venue’s ascetic PRL style with licks of art deco: it’s an unlikely marriage that manages to work. Do your pecking, picking, sipping and supping on an outdoor terrace set-up that encourages mingling and interaction.

Cześć (C3) ul. Grzybowska 2 (through the side passage), czesc.waw.pl It started as a café, but now Cześć is better known as being at the forefront of the new generation of ‘quali-tap’ bars – small little places with six or so beers on tap. The two owners, Piot and Kuba, take their beer seriously, so do expect plenty of new finds as well as traditional favorites from stalwarts like the Artezan and Pinta breweries. The laidback, neighborhood atmosphere is making it increasingly popular with a tight-knit circle of ex-pat drinkers.

craft beer Artezan Pub (D4) ul. Moniuszki 1A Browar Artezan’s flagship pub is a compulsory visit for all beer aficionados. The beer is the magnetic force with eight taps blasting out pacesetter tipples from this brewery’s portfolio. The Pacific is the Insider’s all-time favorite.

BrewDog Warszawa (D4) ul. Widok 8 BrewDog don’t get everything right: at one stage last summer, it seemed like they were upping their prices every other weekend. But while it’s true it’s not the cheapest pint in Warsaw, there’s a feel good factor here that manifests itself inside interiors that rock and beers that go BOSH. Of all the craft beer bars that have swept into Warsaw, this is the one that feels the most international, inclusive and bloody good fun.

Chmielarnia Marszałkowska (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16, chmielarnia.waw. pl With Warsaw’s tap bars all falling over each other to stock the latest tap beers, your options are frequently similar from bar to bar – which is when a good fridge becomes important. Not only can you actually see into Chmielarnia’s, you’ll find it housing the most exciting brews trending around the globe: from the edgy Bermondsey breweries to the Scandinavian giants. Broaden your horizons!

Cuda Na Kiju (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, cudanakiju.pl Where it

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Czeska Baszta (E4) Tower 22A, Most Poniatowskiego, czeskabaszta.pl Halfway up one of the Harry Potter turrets that support Poniatowski Bridge, find divey Czeska engulfed in a murky yellow glow. Boisterous but friendly, the ace up their sleeve is a brilliant assembly of Czech craft beer.

Jabeerwocky (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 12, taproom.pl Steeped in multinational drunken babble, the super sociable Jabbers is famed for its innovative beer selection and convivial atmosphere.

Mark it down as an absolute must-visit, especially if you’re a fan of stout and cider.

Jabeerwocky Junior ul. Nowogrodzka 12 After a brief summer break Jabeerwocky Junior has reopened… as a cider bar! While the portfolio is still in the process of being finalized, the idea is to carry a couple of tap offerings alongside a bottled collection of Polish and international ciders. Of the domestic brands, Kwaśne Jabłko deserves to become a household name. Enjoy it inside an intimate brick room that feels suitably atmospheric.

Kufle i Kapsle (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 25, kufleikapsle.pl All levels of drinkers are catered for in this raw-looking space, from those ready to pay

nosebleed prices for beers with spaceships on the label, right the way down to novices taking their first baby steps in the world of craft booze. Interiors are balanced with the pre-war heritage of the place, and are thick with noise, clamor and the spell of spillage.

Unisex toilets, meaning there’s usually one idiotka putting a spanner in the queue code.

Kufle i Kapsle Żoliborz ul Popiełuszki 19/21, kufleikapsle.pl While Nowogrodzka is the beating heart of the tap bar trend, not even the suburbs are safe from this flourishing movement. By expanding out to Żoliborz, Kufle i Kapsle have cornered a captive market. There’s just seven taps here, but they’re a magnificent seven – find a great representation of Polish craft draught, not to mention a satisfying selection of international bottles. The moderate size works it in its favor, lending it a neighborly atmosphere which sees first-timers quickly converted into returning regulars.

Piw Paw (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34 (enter from ul.

Parkingowa), piwpaw.pl We don’t like: the sweaty toilet, strange smells nor the scrum at the bar. We do like: the 24hr opening hours, humongous fridge and 50+ taps. Seen in the light it’s a little depressing, so visit at night when Parkingowa takes on the look of an end-of-term street party.

Same Krafty (D1) ul. Nowomiejska 10, samekrafty.pl Occupying two narrow, rugged rooms, Same Krafty have rescued Old Town from big beer brands peddling piss. Offering artisan alternatives, this intimate bar has become a magnet for those looking to explore the more subversive side of Polish brewing. That this happens in such an amicable venue makes it all the better, particularly in winter when drinkers squash in to seek solace from the frostbitten streets.

Spiskowcy Rozkoszy (D5) ul. Żurawia 47/49, spiskowcy.pl The ground floor is an intimate space with lots of yet-to-be-famous beers and junky, antique furniture that reminds of the Boho hangouts in Kraków. But what was a packed, little bar is now a packed, big bar with the opening of the basement: find a labyrinth of rooms and psychedelic toilets with pulsating lights – you soon wonder who spiked your drink. And oh, the drinks. Expect IPA and APA beers served from the six taps.

listings / nightlife for gentlemen Playhouse (B3) Al. Solidarności 82A, playhouse.pl Not here gorilla gangsters on the door or pushy girls doing the rounds (“buy me drinky drinky”).

Instead, Playhouse models itself on the top class mega clubs such as Spearmint Rhino, and the result is a subterranean space removed from the sleaze and murk usually associated with the industry. But you want to know what the girls are like, yeah? Let the fact askmen.com voted it their favorite strip in the world speak for itself.

live music Eufemia (D3) Krakowskie Przedmieście 5 (enter via ul. Niżyńskiego), klubojadalniaeufemia. blogspot.com Eufemia unwraps into a series of side rooms furbished with VHS tapes, student artwork and furniture looted from

your grandparents dining room. The claustrophobic atmosphere lends itself well to intimate gigs that see everything from improvised instrumentals to bands called Graveyard Drug Party.

Hydrozagadka ul. 11 Listopada 22, hydrozagadka.waw.pl Set out in the wildlands of Praga, consider Hydrozagadka as the heart of unforced cool. Known for its alternative music scene, the low-ceiling and tight, crowded nature of it generate an electrifying atmosphere where the audience and band become one. Walking a fine line between industrial and straight out decrepit, the atmosphere is second to none: drinks flow, strangers meet and music smashes out: you can feel something special happening here.

vodka Dom Wódki (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl Those

expecting Dom Wódki to be a standard mucky shot bar are in for a surprise. Sparkling with over 250 artisanal vodkas, find them incorporated into inspirational drinks mixed

by Tomasz Małek, a world champion flair bartender. More than just show, the tastes are incredible.

Pijalnia many locations, fb.com/pijalnia.warszawa Havoc reigns in Pijalnia, and watching all the tears and tiffs on a Friday night is something of a spectator sport. Pickles and vodka are the essential order, while reading matter is supplied via commie-era sports reports that are plastered to the wall.

Przekąski u Romana (F4) ul. Ludna 2, tel. 660 525 777 Bow-tied and debonair, proprietor Roman Modzelewski first came to attention as the bar steward of the defunct shot bar once found in the Hotel Europejski. Now he’s back, this time heading his own operation in hip Powiśle. Open round the clock.

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shopping accessories Bursztynek Rynek Starego Miasta 4/6, bursztynek.co The largest amber jewellery store in Warsaw, though in addition to that visitors can also purchase unique amber-related souvenirs as well as more classic gifts associated with Poland. di Trevi Boutique Piękna 11A, ditrevi.pl Aimed at both him and her, di Trevi present the freshest Italian footwear releases from prestigious brands such as Ballin and Loriblu. Handbags are also available inside a chic interior that exudes luxury.

FLOWER POWER BUKIECIARNIA MOKOTOWSKA 41 (ul. Mokotowska 41) Ultra pretty flower arrangements for all seasons and occasions. The fairy tale floral ensembles are complimented by a range of decorative odds and ends presented inside an utterly bewitching interior.

FLOWER LOVE (fb.com/FlowerLoveWarsaw) Business is blooming at Flower Love, an online service that specializes in beautifully composed flowers inside elegant looking boxes that can contain up to 100 roses. Fun, fashionable and flawless.

FORTUNATO (ul. Szpitalna 5, fortunato.com.pl) Rated by many as Warsaw’s top petal pushers, Fortunato can boast an English-language online delivery service, as well as cutesy gifts (fluffy bears, etc.) to go alongside the elegant suede boxes the flowers arrive in.

PROSTA FORMA (ul. Wilcza 20, prosta-forma.pl) Cut flowers, bouquets, pot flowers and arrangements inside this brilliant world of floral thrills. This passionately run stores places an emphasis on supporting local growers, and also sells scented candles and accessories to couple your choice.

WARSZTAT WONI (ul. Burakowska 5/7, warsztatwoni.com) Established in 1998 by Marta Gessler, this boutique-style space deals in elegant flowers and potted plants that go beyond the norm. In plain English, that means contemporary arrangements that are simple yet highly personal.

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Glamstore ul. Narbutta 83 (entry from ul. Łowicka) Widely hailed by Poland’s fashion glossies, this store sells modern furnishings with all the trimmings and colours you could ask for. They also stock kitchen and bathroom accessories, as well as touting their own jewelery line.

Hard Rock Cafe ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), hardrockcafe.pl No wardrobe is complete without the iconic Hard Rock t-shirt! Find the Warsaw-stamped version available here, along with other extras for the all American look.

HOS&me ul. Mokotowska 63, mokotowska63.com Luxury jewelry and the best in the biz. In stock: high end treasures from Nialaya, Lene Bjerre Design, Ti Sento, Christensen and Dryberg/Kern.

Minty Dot ul. Bracka 5, mintydot.pl Top quality Polish jewelry composed using gold, silver and natural stone. Contemporary in style, these are accessories that radiate class and craftsmanship while at the same time exuding a subtle sense of timeless romance.

Mo61 ul. Mokotowska 61, tel. 601 652 593, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, mo61.pl Billed as a

listings / shopping ‘perfume laboratory’, Mo61 is the only place in Poland that allows customers to create their own scents. Under the expert guidance of staff trained by Zygmunt Marczewski (“the best nose in Poland”!), visitors compose their own perfumes inside a beautifully renovated pre-war space.

Pingle Optyk ul. Hoża 40 A collection of hand-selected eyewear that is serious in terms of quality control, but entirely whimsical when it comes to design. Yes, you’ve got your ubiquitous Ray Ban classics, but you’ve also got the electric blue version. You’ve got your Chanel and YSL classics, then there are the leather-trimmed frames from Paul Smith and many more funky models straight from Paris.

Schubert ul. Piwna 12/14, ul. Piwna 26, ul. Świętojańska 11, worldofamber.pl Rings, bracelets, necklaces and watches produced using the finest Baltic amber. Or for a unique gift, how about an amber chess set or an amber cigarette lighter?

Stara Mydlarnia Various locations inc. ul. Chmielna 4, mydla. pl Handmade cosmetics such as fragrant soaps, bath gels and salts, body butters, massage oils and aromatic candles. Ideal for home pampering.

Time To... Design Shop ul. Poznańska 7, timeto.com.pl Discoveries include quirky, spiky bags from MadPax, Haribo jewelry adorned with Gummy Bears and animal print mugs from Pikczersy. Above all though, the place is about timepieces, namely highly individualistic works from the S.T.A.M.P.S brand: averaging around zł. 100, this is as affordable as talking points get.

fashion Ania Kuczyńska ul. Mokotowska 61 Ania Kuczyńska is becoming well known for her highly fashionable, minimalist clothing designs. The store also carries adorable baby clothes and various accessories.

Balthazar ul. Mokotowska 64 (Plac Trzech Krzyży), balthazar.pl An atelier, boutique and private tailor with several unique brands. Book your meeting by calling tel. 535 545 728.

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Chiara ul. Mokotowska 49 & pl. Uni Lubelskiej, tel. 22 647 0394, chiara-online.pl A solid assortment of Marc Jacobs and other top international designers such as Michael Kors and Jil Sander.

talent: Blessus, Justyna Chrabelska, Łukasz Jemioł, and Zuo Corp, as well as the rock stars of the local scene such as Kupisz, Zień and Plich. Around 100 designers to choose from, with prices straddling the wide spectrum of purchasing power.

di Trevi Boutique ul. Piękna 11A, ditrevi.pl Aimed at both him and her, di Trevi present the freshest Italian footwear releases from prestige brands such as Ballin and Loriblu. Handbags are also available inside a chic interior that exudes luxury.

Pan Tu Nie Stal Koszykowa 35/40, pantuniestal.com Polish design at its peak: fashion is prominent, but there’s also interesting bitsy things such as aprons, jam jars, notebooks and mugs – all with a defiantly Polish twist. Eccentric, unusual and emphatically on-trend, it’s a must-visit.

Dream Nation ul. Kopernika 8/18, dreamnation.pl Founded in 2011, Dream Nation is a label committed to sustainable fashion. Find colorful dresses and original prints spruced up by the designer’s wild, personal twist. All garments are made using organic cotton.

EM Cashmere Boutique ul. Szczygla 8, emcashmere.pl Available brands include Allude Cashmere, Annette Görtz, Studiorundholz and Sarah Pacini with 30-40% discounts on last year’s collections, and up to 70% on those of previous years.

A truly beautiful find with the clothes offer supplemented with shoes and accessories.

Frank A ul. Natolińska 3, franka.pl The interior is painfully chic and the clothing effortlessly elegant with a minimalist edge. Stocks major brands that you can’t find anywhere else in Warsaw, from handbags from Pauric Sweeney, perfectly fashioned tees from American Vintage and ballet flats from Bloch.

Moliera 2 Boutique ul. Moliera 2, moliera2.com Brands: Alexandre Birman, Alexandre Vauthier, Anya Hindmarch, Aquazzura, Balmain, Beach Bunny, Buscemi, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Francesco Russo, Gianvito Rossi, Herve Leger, Isabel Marant, Jimmy Choo, Kenzo, Kotur, Maison Michel, Moncler, One Teaspoon, Simonetta Ravizza, Tod’s, Tory Burch, Valentino, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon.

Mostrami.pl mostrami.pl Known to insiders as the ‘Polish Net-a-porter’, the online Mostrami portal showcases a whole breed of Polish fashion

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, plactrzechkrzyzy.com Brands: Beach Bunny, Buscemi, Canada Goose, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Dsquared 2, Christian Louboutin, Fay, Gianvito Rossi, Hogan, Kenzo, Kotur, Moncler, Mr& Mrs Italy, One Teaspoon, Ralph Lauren, Simonetta Ravizza, Tom Ford, Tory Burch, Valentino, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon.

Childrenswear: Burberry Children, Dsquared2 Kids, Kenzo Kids, Moncler Kids, Ralph Lauren Kids, Tod’s Kids.

Ptasia 6 ul. Ptasia 6, ptasia6.pl A unique ladies concept store showcasing the works of both emerging and established independent Polish fashion labels such as Eva Grygo, Confashion, Horror! Horror!, Kasia Miciak and Polanka.

QπШ - Robert Kupisz ul. Mokotowska 48/204 (courtyard), robertkupisz.com One of Warsaw’s hottest fashion icons, and a trip here soon explains why. The exclusive, handmade garments are a guaranteed head turner.

Reykjavik District ul. Burakowska 15, tel. 501 399 222, reykjavikdistrict.com Chic, well-cut menswear for all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal.

Sabotage ul. Burakowska 5/7 Those in-the-know know Sabotage as one of the places to buy funky deconstructed denim and sportswear pieces. Here you’ll find a wide array of unique clothes, hats, belts and handbags in a variety of fabrics and styles that hail straight from New York, London and Tokyo.

listings / shopping Safripsti ul. Oleandrów 3 Formerly a make-up artist in London and Paris, owner Magdalena returned to Poland to open a vintage boutique. Buying wholesale – meaning prices are kept in check – her fashion store presents finds like authentic cheerleader outfits and Hawaiian shirts for summer, not to mention a great selection of denim, parkers and so forth. And how about a classic Burberry mac for zł. 200?

Van Thorn ul. Sienna 39, tel. 22 243 7377, vanthorn. pl Bespoke and made-to-measure suits as well as custom-made shirts and a range of accessories from ties and pocket squares down to shoes and cufflinks. The attention to detail, the quality and craftsmanship are staggering.

home Długa Showroom ul. Długa 8/14, dlugashowroom.pl Decorative plaster materials from Novacolor and porcelain from Visa Alegre (the official china of the White House and Buckingham Palace) are a couple of reasons to go here for spending. Alternatively, go Polish by going for the designer tableware of Bartek Meyer.

Le Pukka ul. Solec 58/60, lepukka.pl For interior inspirations take a look at Le Pukka: highly original furniture and decorative pieces for the home come from the likes of Smeg, AreaDeclic, HK Living and Zuiver.

Makutra ul. Oleandrów 5, makutra.com To know and not to cook, is not to know. This store has everything a master chef seeks: from tagines to mezzalunas, it’s got the lot covered. Huge stock of cook books and kitchenware.

Nap ul. Mysia 3 Bedtime accessories are the bread and butter here, but there’s also several bits for the kitchen as well: coffee makers

by Tom Dixon, posh pans from Baumalu, arty saltshakers from Menu and tableware from Muubs. A true treat for any home.

NOON/NOON ul. Pańska 98 (enter from ul. Prosta), noonnoon.pl Well-balanced as a coffee bar / showroom where you can interact and experience the functionality and quality of

the furniture first hand.

Reset Point ul. Puławska 48 sklep.resetpoint.pl A treasure trove of renovated antique furniture, vinyl clocks, 70s style handle-less PRL mugs and modern art prints of legendary landmarks such as Dworzec Centralny and the Palace of Culture. Plenty of pieces and curios from upcoming and established domestic design studios.

Wawa Bla Bla ul. Dobra 15 A gift store with a difference: showcasing the working of Poland’s upcoming ‘street artists’, not to mention the British proprietor’s own photos of Warsaw’s graffiti, this shop is filled with unconventional keepsakes that include canvas prints, Warsaw-themed mugs and one-of-a-kind postcards.

with a credit card blitz in mind. Poland’s first luxury department store gathers the world’s top designers under one roof, with brands including Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton, Stella McCartney and Rick Owens. And that’s the tip of the iceberg. Finish with dinner in the top floor Concept 13.

Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59, tel. 22 222 2200, zlotetarasy.pl Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Jatomi Health and Fitness Club

malls & department stores

WELCOME TO THE WORLD OF LUXURY FLOWERS! THE PERFECT GIFT FOR SOMEONE YOU LOVE...

Arkadia Al. Jana Pawła II 82, tel. 22 323 6767, arkadia.com.pl Galeria Mokotów ul. Wołoska 12, tel. 22 541 4141, galeriamokotow.com.pl Klif House of Fashion ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4500 klif. pl Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has everything from the excellent Alma supermarket to top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko.

tel. +48 731 817 096 flowerlove.warsaw@gmail.com

FlowerLove Warsaw

flowerlove.warsaw

Plac Unii ul. Puławska 2, placunii.pl Warsaw’s latest mall counts Armani Jeans, Liu-Jo and Pandora amongst its upmarket tenants.

Mysia 3 ul. Mysia 3, mysia3.pl Hip department store that’s seen a few tenants come and go, yet has remained on the cutting edge in spite of it all. Set in Poland’s former censorship office, the line-up includes Scandinavian fashion in Cos, shoes from My Paris, unconventional fashion from Nenukko and more.

Vitkac Wolf Bracka Vitkac, ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7313, likusconceptstore.pl Vitkac was made for www.warsawinsider.pl

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LOVE SEAT(S)

A unique mix of cafe, working space and concept gallery, NOON/NOON celebrates their third year of bringing design, drinks and people closer together...

t

hey say that good design is a marriage between form and function. Yet such is the off-balance between the two in many of Warsaw’s concept stores, you ask what’s gone wrong. But maybe, just maybe, that’s not because others are getting so wrong, but because NOON/NOON are getting it so right. Located on ul. Prosta, in a blossoming section of Wola, here’s an unlikely sounding amalgam of a cafe, meeting spot and super cool shared working space.

Most of all though, it’s a design showroom that feels, in many ways, light years ahead of the competition.

The creation of Agata Bielecka and Kamil Bielecki, together their frequent world travels have brought them close to the most current trends, and have led them to search out designers and suppliers of particular standing. Personally visiting factories and production lines to source products – many of which are otherwise unavailable on the Polish market – the couple’s eye for

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what constitutes strong design is both remarkable and prescient.

Of course, this is something of an objective opinion: after all, one man’s meat is another man’s poison. So what sets NOON/NOON aside is its option to try before you buy. Its role as a cafe/bar/office/social space enables visitors to fully understand the functionality and quality of the furniture first hand before making a further decision. Basically, through allowing and encouraging people to loaf around on sofas and chairs all day, customers are given the ultimate furniture test drive. Smart, modish, relevant and often very reasonably priced, NOON/NOON has reinvented how Warsaw shops for the living room and office.

NOON/NOON ul. Pańska 98 (enter from ul. Prosta), tel. 790 028 616, noonnoon.pl

Basically, through allowing and encouraging people to loaf around on sofas and chairs all day, customers are given the ultimate furniture test drive...

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family activities Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. 22 596 41 00, kopernik.org.pl A brilliant array of science-inspired attractions that prove as stimulating for parents as they are for the kids. Check out Galeria BZZZ, an area designated for children up to six. In order to keep numbers manageable, expect entry times to be staggered.

Fundacja Atelier ul. Foksal 11, 22 826 8813 or 22 826 9589, atelier.org.pl Situated in an atmospheric 19th century building this foundation organizes affordable/flexible workshops to develop and inspire art education and creative skills (painting/drawing/sculpture/ art history) for children, young people and adults.

Hangar 646 ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 646, hangar646.pl Children with excessive energy levels should head to Hangar 646. Located in a former airport hangar, the 2,700 sq/m of trampoline space includes a swimming pool of sponges.

Children from three years old are welcome to let off steam, with instructors available to teach acrobatics and suchlike; or you can just bounce off walls!

SLEDS & THE CITY They say the best things in life are free, and to me that generally means things like spending time with loved ones, the sunshine, having clean air to breathe and just about anything to do with the beach. Well, after over two weeks struck down with the flu I came to the realization that life is too short to wait around till summer for the free kicks in life. Having eventually recovered, I made the decision to track down some winter thrills.

It all started when the first proper snow came down and my daughter mentioned she wanted to go sledding. We headed to Decathlon to see what was on offer and picked out some sleds (a big plastic mass for my ass versus a wooden contraption from the age of Dickens for her).

The next step after getting our ticket to ride was to find the best place to put the sleds to good use. We live in center so headed to the small hill in the Dolina Szwajcarska park across from the Romanian Embassy: a great place for a gentle induction, but short on the fast thrills my daughter was soon demanding. For those, head instead behind Zamek Ujazdowski.

Heaving with children and watchful parents, it’s by the far the best place in the center for sledding – not only does it have easier slopes for more cautious beginners, but also steeper ones for the more experienced. (KD)

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The Little Gym ul. Bruzdowa 56 & ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 45, tel. 22 842 0728, thelittlegym.eu Expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-to-child ratio, original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. Not only a great place for children, but tailored to a comfortable and relaxing stay for parents as well.

Zachęta Gallery Pl. Małachowskiego 3, tel. 22 556 9600, open Tue-Sun 12:00-20:00, zacheta.art.pl Recently undergone extensive modernization but still awaiting a café, this gallery and bookshop offer a perfect introduction to modern art. Also available are weekend workshops for children and original cultural birthday parties guided by experienced animators in a contemporary environment.

listings / family education preschools

American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202 (KonstancinJeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, aswarsaw. org American School of Warsaw provides a rich, meaningful and balanced educational experience through age-appropriate activities to students aged 3 to 5. For further information and/or to visit our school, contact:admissions@aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00.

The British Primary School of Wilanรณw ul. Hlonda 12, bsww.pl,

tel. 781 988 000 Following the National Curriculum of England and Wales, this is the first School in Poland subject to the inspection of the UK Independent School Inspectorate. Pupils receive British and, upon request, Polish reports/diplomas. The school follows a closed admissions policy and limits enrollment of one nationality to below 50% of each class starting from Year 1.

The British School Early Years Centre ul. Dฤ browskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646 7777, british@thebritishschool. pl, thebritishschool.pl The Early Years Foundation Stage is where a lifetime of learning begins. The British School, Warsaw provides EYFS classes from Pre-nursery (age 30 months) to Reception (5 years old).

Children develop quickly and their Early Years practitioners aim to do all they can to help your child have the best possible start in life and become a lifelong learner.

The Canadian School of Warsaw Preschool ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, preschool@canadianschool.pl The Canadian School of Warsaw is the only authorized school in Warsaw teaching IB PYP in English. The preschool offers a bilingual environment for 3-6 year olds enriched with foreign languages and extra activities. Serving the Warsaw community since 2000 all children are welcome, though available space is limited. For further info, tours and school visits call or email.

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations)

Warsaw Montessori School ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotรณw), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, warsawmontessori.edu.pl

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listings / family Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have 3 green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy.

Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. Call to make an appointment to tour any of the 3 schools.

International Trilingual School of Warsaw ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/ saint-exupery.pl Established in 1994, and formerly known as Ecole Antoine de Saint Exupery, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fill-immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French.

Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China.

The English Playhouse ul. Pływiańska 14a, tel. 22 843 9370, office

open 8:00-16.00, www.tep.edu.pl The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old. For more info or to arrange a tour of the pre-school or nursery call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email: jnowak@theenglishplayhouse. com Happy Montessori House Warsaw Montessori Pre-school, ul. Rumiana 14, tel. 22 423 50 75, mob. 697 060 504, open 7.30-17:00, hmh.com.pl The Happy Montessori House offers part-time and fulltime places for children aged between 2 to 6 years, as well as toddler-focused activities (from 18 months to 3 years) centered around movement, sensorial stimulation, storytelling, singing and socialising.

Maple Tree Montessori ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/ Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, mapletreemontessori.pl Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months)

and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). Find them located in the Wilanów district of Warsaw, in a house safely nestled into the end of a quiet street.

Montessori Academy for International Children ul. Królewicza Jakuba 36 (Wilanów), open Mon-Fri 8:00-16:15, ul. Sadowa 4 (Konstancin), Open 8:00-16:45, tel. 502 315 022, montessoriacademy.eu An English-speaking pre-school (16 months to 6 years of age) with two locations. The school’s policy is to comply with Montessori standards, using the Montessori Method in English. The school’s philosophy is based on the joy of learning, which comes from discovering and furthering the individual development of each child.

Primrose Bilingual Preschool ul. Bernardyńska 16A lok U7, tel. 22 415 8500, primrose.edu.pl Following the ‘immersion’ method, each class has two teachers – one Polish-speaking, the other English.

Through this children have all-day contact with different languages, absorbing them in everyday situations. In accordance with the hands-on methodology, children also take part in daily workshops ranging from kitchen science to art and craft classes.

Trilingual Pre-school and Nursery “Three Languages” Center ul. Karowa 14/16 lok 6 (3-6 year olds); ul.

Cicha 5 lok 1 (1-2 year olds), open Mon-Fri 7:30-18:30, tel. 517 872 682, 3languages.

IB Open Evening 15th February 2017 6 PM, IB College

To confirm your attendance, please contact admissions@thebritishschool.pl

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listings / family pl The only trilingual pre-school and nursery teaching English, Spanish and Polish through total language immersion. All educators are native speaker pre-school teachers. The comprehensive curriculum follows American, Spanish and Polish curriculum standards.

The pre-school was awarded European Language Label in 2012.

schools American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, aswarsaw.org ASW is a premier collegepreparatory international school that offers a PK-12 curriculum, including the IB Diploma Program in Grades 11 and 12. Students are inspired and challenged every day by experienced and dedicated teachers, who provide enriching learning opportunities in a world class facility. For further information and/ or to visit our school contact: admissions@ aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00.

The British Primary School of Wilanów ul. Hlonda 12, bsww.pl, tel. 781 988 000 Following the National Curriculum of England and Wales, this is the first School in Poland subject to the inspection of the UK Independent School Inspectorate. Pupils receive British and, upon request, Polish

reports/diplomas. The school follows a closed admissions policy and limits enrollment of one nationality to below 50% of each class starting from Year 1.

The British School ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, open 8:00-16:00, british@thebritishschool. pl, thebritishschool.pl Premium international school established in 1992 by Nord Anglia Education. The curriculum is designed to provide the highest academic quality of education. They follow the English National Curriculum, adapted to the needs of their international student community: from Primary through to the Secondary Key Stages to the IGCSE examinations and a wellestablished International Baccalaureate (IB) Diploma Programme.

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations)

Warsaw Montessori School ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, warsawmontessori.edu.pl Casa dei Bambini Warsaw Montessori School are set to open their Erdkinder Montessori Middle School as of September 2016. Located at Tatrzańska 5A

they promise an extraordinary opportunity for study, work and for daily living. Guided by trained specialists, students will be responsible for managing their household, operating small businesses, caring for local flora and fauna as well as domesticated animals, taking charge of the younger children and much more. “Adolescence Program” activities, integrated with academic studies, help students discover their inner strength to meet life’s real challenges.

The English Primary ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 784 037 808, admissions@tep. edu.pl, www.tep.edu.pl The English Primary is designed specifically for children in the primary education ages, just as children experience in England but in an international community. Pupils are taken through the key learning stages so that they can achieve to the best of their ability through a fun learning experience. The Core Curriculum subjects include English, Phonics, Science, Mathematics, French, PE and Swimming, Music, Personal, Social and Health Education. The school is a member of Council of British International Schools (COBIS).

The Canadian School of Warsaw Elementary School ul. Bełska 7, tel.

692 411 573, admission@

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listings / family canadian-school.pl, canadian-school.pl The Canadian School of Warsaw is the only authorized school in Warsaw teaching IB PYP in English. The Primary School offers bilingual education for 6-11 year olds. Highly qualified, international staff, challenging materials and a friendly atmosphere provide an optimal setting for the highest standard of education.

Extra-curricular activities include visual arts, designing classes, ceramics/pottery, art studio, music lessons (piano, guitar, choir), sports (capoeira, karate, judo, soccer, swimming, gymnastics), languages (English, Polish, French, Spanish, Italian, German) and more.

The Canadian School of Warsaw Middle School ul. Olimpijska 11, tel. 885 420 044 / 885 620 066, secretary.olimpijska@canadianschool.pl, canadian-school.pl Provides a continuation of PREIB education for 11-15 year olds. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create a perfect learning and creative thinking environment. For further info, tours and school visits call or email. Also home to the Non-Public Psycho-Pedagogical Counseling Centre ‘Olimpia’ (tel. 885 620 066) which examines the level of mental, emotional, auditory and visual-motor functions’ develop-

ment, and conducts individual and group pedagogical therapy, as well as individual psychotherapy..

Lullaby Multiple locations, lullaby.pl Jam packed with funky design and quirky gifts for your little ones. However, the exquisite clothing and designer labels do come with a hefty price tag.

International Trilingual School of Warsaw ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/ saint-exupery.pl Established in 1994, and formerly known as Ecole Antoine de Saint Exupery, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fill-immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French.

Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China.

Muppetshop ul. Kazimierzowska 43, tel. 532 689 212, muppetshop.pl An innovative concept store that offers a wide range of brands and products targeted at young people – babies, juniors, teenagers. The portfolio includes full-service for expecting parents as well as complete interior projects. On top of that expect a wealth of other design products (kitchen accessories, decorations, toys, bags, books etc.) from carefully selected brands.

shops Kopytko Mamuta ul. Boya-Żeleńskiego 2, kopytkomamuta.pl The creation of Kopytko Mamuta plugs a gap in the market, with beautifully cobbled shoes that are, in the words of the owner Agnieszka, ‘the essence of Parisian chic’. Specializing in trendy kicks from the likes of Mercredi Apres Midi, it’s the ultimate spoiler for your budding style maven and her little Prince Charming.

Pieluszkarnia ul. Topiel 12, ul. Mandalińskiego 25, tel. 22 713 8275, pieluszkarnia.pl This small chain specializes in eco-friendly toys and clothing designed and produced in Poland. Products include the Lalanka dolly clothing collection, luxuriously soft reversible winter balaclavas and Martello blankets personalized for births etc.

Smyk Multiple stores, tel. 22 462 7250, smyk.pl Smyk is Poland’s answer to Mothercare; from bottle sterilizing kits to pencil cases, early learning toys to Disney classics and a wide range of seasonal clothing, this store will take you from childbirth to high school!

Casa dei Bambini Warsaw Montessori School accepting

applications for all our locations and programs: Infant & Toddler: age 1-2.5, Casa: age 2.5-6 Contact Ela: tel. 692 099 134 office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl Elementary: age 6-9, 9-12 Contact Sylvia: tel. 606 276 112 sylvia@warsawmontessori.edu.pl "Erdkinder" Middle School: age 12-15 Contact Małgosia: tel. 604 137 826 malgosia@warsawmontessori.edu.pl

warsaw montessori school

Warszawa: Szwoleżerów 4, Badowska 19, Tatrzańska 5a, Izabelin-Hornówek: Szkolna 16

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www.warsawmontessori.edu.pl

health & beauty gyms

Artis Wellness Club ul. Klimczaka 1 (Royal Wilanów), artisclub. pl And so here we have a contender for Warsaw’s best gym. Found in Royal Wilanów, this state-of-the-art gym boasts the latest technological advances in personal fitness, as well as a massive program of courses that range from group cycling and yoga to Zumba and body combat. Personal training and deluxe spa facilities also available.

Fitness Centre at the Radisson SAS Centrum Hotel ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888 Smallish but well-regarded gym with swimming pool, sauna, gym, and group classes inside one of Warsaw’s top five stars.

CITY SKIING GÓRKA SZCZĘŚLIWICKA (ul. Drawska 22, gorka-szczesliwicka.com) Set on a 74-meter high artificial hill constructed from war rubble, Górka Szczęśliwicka is the capital’s best known ski slope. Taking up an area of 9,000 sq/m, the slope runs a length of 227-meters with the average gradient working out at 11°. A system of chairlifts has the capacity to handle 2,000 people per hour, and classes and equipment rental are available for novice skiers. Other attractions include Nordic walking trails and tobogganing. It’s not challenging, and avid skiers won’t be overwhelmed, but if nothing else it is a pleasant day out.

ROYAL SNOW PARK (pictured) (ul. Klimczaka 1, fb.com/RoyalSnowpark) The newly opened Snow Park outside the Royal Wilanów shopping center is a modest offer but, nonetheless, good fun if you’re in the area. Regardless of the weather, you’ll find the compact area covered in snow – artificial or otherwise – and laiden with obstacles for skiers, snowboarders and snowskaters.

Slated to remain open till mid-March, a number of freestyle competitions and classes have been scheduled: for full details keep an eye on their Facebook.

Fitness Centre at the Sheraton Hotel ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6701, www.sheraton. com/warsaw The Sheraton spa features sauna, steam room and massage, while the gym comes with LCD-fitted running and cycling machines, and a dedicated cardio section. Personal training available, as are group classes covering pilates, yoga, aerobics and even ski conditioning.

Holmes Place Energy Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (C.H. Arkadia), ul.

Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), www. holmesplace.pl Making top-flight gym facilities available to the masses, the Holmes Place Energy brand offers high standard equipment, personal training and group classes. Six month membership available for approx. zł.

200 per month, though prices are subject to change. For latest details enquire direct.

Holmes Place Premium ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel), ul.

Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), holmesplace.pl Three ‘premium locations’, with the Hilton and Regent branches housing a 25-meter pool. Sauna and steam room facilities are available in all all three, as are a varied timetable of classes plus personal training. Prices, depending on www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / health & beauty the gym you choose, range from around zł.

179 to zł. 379 per month.

Little Gym ul. Bruzdowa 56, tel. 22 842 0728, www.thelittlegym.pl Targeted at children, expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-to-child ratio, original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. Englishspeaking, as well.

McFit ul. Świętokrzyska 3 (corner of Nowy Świat), tel. 22 313 1400, mcfit.com The budget European chain signals its arrival to Poland with a 2,000 sq/m studio that utilizes the latest technology as well as ‘cyber training’ programs. Open 24/7, with membership from zł. 89 per month.

Quantum Fitness ul. Piękna 15, quantumpiekna.pl Quantum takes the keep fit business to new levels. A place of quiet, understated luxury, equipment is state-of-the-art and complemented by expert trainers at the peak of their game. This is the full 24-carat gym experience, and one that comes with the added bonus of a luxury spa and a top-class physiotherapy wing.

Ride Warsaw ul. Karolkowa 30, ridewarsaw.com Around twice a day this small studio opens up to the public with group cycling classes overseen by a team of English-speaking instructors. This is not a leisurely Sunday pedal, but a high energy workout with a banging soundtrack and constant interaction with the trainer in charge.

RiverView Wellness Centre ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental), riverview.com.pl Top-class facilities and equipment, private instructors and small classes. The view from the highest pool in Europe offers a glorious panorama of the city and is almost worth the membership fee alone. Annual prices begin from around zł.

4,000.

spas & salons Bartek Janusz Salon ul. Mokotowska 19 / ul. Wilcza 72, tel. 22 828 4444, www.bartekjanusz.pl The staff here takes a no-nonsense approach to cutting hair – it goes along with the minimal-

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ist chic interiors of the place. According to one Insider: “I’ve never left a salon feeling so happy with my hair.”

BodyClinic ul. Oboźna 9 lok. 104, tel. 22 826 1160 or 784 677 618, open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat 9:00-15:00, www.bodyclinic.pl Thorough body care for everyone. From the usual options to a huge variety of massages and some very exotic treatments, BodyClinic covers all the bases.

Fiuu Fiuu Day Spa ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 629 2414.

A wonderful quick fix salon that makes use of the latest Ericson products and other top brands. Regarded as one of the top ladies day spas in the country.

Hair a Porter ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent, level -1), tel. 22 558 1555, open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat 9:00-17:00, www.hair-a-porter.pl A staunch favorite among the ex-pat crowd, Hair a Porter offer the ultimate hair experience utilizing talented staff and top-quality products.

La Perla multiple locations inc. Łowicka 21B/1, Wilcza 22A, Hilton Hotel, klinikalaperla.pl Here, the staff is adept and certified at a range of innovative treatments: from the non-invasive Bella Contour treatment to the Body Tite and Body Jet treatments that use the latest surgical procedures to slim and tighten. For summer the right spa/salon/clinic is key. La Perla’s all three in one!

Nail & Beauty Bar ul. Mokotowska 26, tel. 22 621 1404. A top spot for a classic manicure or pedicure – they also do lots of complicated things with gels and other hi-tech nail discoveries. Also on Elektoralna 24.

NEW Spas & Salons

ouch!

DEPILACJA WOSKIEM

Ouch! ul. Belwederska 32, 22 240 87 67; ul.

Bonifraterska 8, tel. 22 298 11 12, ouch.pl Experts in waxing, Ouch! Aim their offer at ‘busy women looking for express treatments with lasting effects who, at the same time, appreciate a sense of intimacy’. High quality waxes, including fast and accurate epilation treatments whose effects last up to four weeks. Wax treatments for the whole body.

O Yes Massage ul. Nowolipki 27, tel. 22 400 11 44, oyes.pl Thai & Balinese massage packaged in a European way. The Thai and Balinese therapists represent the heart of this chilled out spot, while the inexpensive prices (starting from zł.

99) and attentive service mark it out amongst others. Buying four massages upfront earns clients a further discount.

PARDON MY FRENCH

manicure pedicure

Pardon My French ul. Belwederska 32, tel. 22 240 62 90; Bonifraterska 8, tel. 22 298 11 10; ul. Mokotowska 56, tel. 22 298 10 10, pardonmyfrench.pl Manicure and pedicure treatments with high quality lacquers and an awareness of global trends: if you need an endorsement, Paul McCartney visited when he was in Poland! Free wifi and coffee, as well as the possibility of hosting baby showers and bachelorette parties. Open from 9-8 during the week and 9-5 on Sat (with the Mokotowska branch also welcoming visitors on Sunday from 10-4).

The Pedicure Place ul. Pokorna 2, lok. u11, tel. 22 241 3000 or 505 828 688, pedicure-place.pl A luxury pedi/manicure clinic with room for 10. All the latest OPI varnishes and over 200 colors guarantee you’ll find the latest in styling and nail care.

Quantum Clinic ul. Piękna 15, quantumpiekna.pl Using first class, pioneering methods and technology, the Quantum Clinic surpasses the norms that Warsaw has become used to. For the full Hollywood treatment, restore and replenish the body at a luxury spa devised to enhance the body and mind.

yoga & pilates Astanga Yoga Studio ul. Gałczyńskiego 4, tel. 22 465 8810, astanga.pl Established in 2005, this studio specializes in ashtanga and also offers physiotherapy, Hawaiian massage, reflexology and kalari chikitsa.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

in the city

ON INSTAGRAM #warsawinsider

The Insider’s Instagram gofer returns from his latest meanderings to present his latest captures of the beautiful, banal and bizarre sides of town. For your daily helping of Warsaw city happenings, visit our Instagram yourself...

www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / in the city VISITORS accomodation 5-Star Hotels Bellotto ul. Senatorska 13/15, tel. 22 829 6444, hotelbellotto.pl Bristol Hotel ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1000, bristol@luxurycollection. com, www.hotelbristolwarsaw.pl

H15 Boutique ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 553 8700, info@h15ab.com, www.h15ab.com Hilton Warsaw ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555 / 800 44 11 482, www.hilton.com InterContinental ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com Mamaison Le Régina Hotel Warsaw ul. Kościelna 12, tel. 22 531 6000, www. mamaison.com

Marriott Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 6306, www.warsawmarriott.com

AGS Warsaw ul. Julianowska 37, Piaseczno, tel. 22 702 1072, www.agsmovers.com

Regent Warsaw Hotel ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, reservations@regent-warsaw.com, www.regent-warsaw.com

CorstJens Worldwide Movers Group ul. Nowa 23, Stara Iwiczna, tel. 22 737 7200, www.corstjens.com

Sheraton ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6100, www.sheraton.pl

DuX Consulting Agency ul. Panieńska 9/28, tel. 22 670 4280 or 502 216 606 www.duxconsulting.com.pl Express Relocations ul. Szyszkowa 35/37, tel. 22 878 3535, www.expressrelocations.com

Sofitel Warsaw Victoria ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8011, www.sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com

Euro Move International Movers ul. Kineskopowa 1, Piaseczno, tel. 22 716 5566, www.euromove.pl

Westin Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, www.westin.pl

Move One Relocations ul. Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 8160, www.moveonerelo.com Also immigration assistance, fine art shipping, pet transport and consulting services.

RESIDENTS relocation companies Arkpol ul.Słowikowskiego 27, arkpol.com Specialists in international ‘door-to-door’ movals, with packaging, storage and customs clearance part of the deal.

Relo Planet ul. Batalinou Platerówek 3, tel. 22 658 1958, reloplanet.com International, domestic and office removals, corporate and individual relocations, fine art shipping, storage, insurance, as well as a full range of assistance services (immigration, etc.).

Get 12 issues for the price of 6 (60 zł) WARSAWPASS & CHOPINPASS Valid for 24, 48 and 72-hour periods, the Warsaw Pass enables holders to hop on and off a bus ploughing the main tourist routes, as well as free entry (and the ability to ‘skip the line’) to numerous attractions including Polin, the PKiN viewing platform, Royal Castle, Copernicus Science Centre and many more besides. Discounts for tours and restaurants are also part of the package.

For full details, see: warsawpass.com

SUBSCRIBE AND SAVE! Email: insider@warsawinsider.pl

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Also, be sure to pick up the ChopinPASS, a package that includes admission to the Chopin Museum and to the birthplace of Fryderyk Chopin in Żelazowa Wola, as well as direct transportation between these two institutions. For details, see: ChopinPass.com

listings / in the city services Domestina domestina.pl New to Warsaw, Domestina offer four-hour maid solutions ranging from zł. 129-142. Offering full premium service, they’ll make your bed to match the standard of a five-star hotel, and clean every corner till your flat is spotless! Order and pay online via their English-language website.

storage Więcej Miejsca Tel. 733 002 014, wiecejmiejsca.pl Offers innovative, convenient, door-to-door storage & moving services. Order via their website or phone and the company’s driver will deliver sturdy plastic, tamper-proof bins for storing items such as clothes, books, documents, etc. They’ll also store larger items, including furniture, and organize local, national and international moves.

museums

Meeting House wins points for frequently excellent exhibitions that cover topics such as ‘rebuilding Warsaw’ and ‘Socialist Realist architecture.’ It won’t take longer than twenty minutes to peruse whatever exhibition is on, but it’s still a very worthwhile diversion and one of the city’s top secrets.

Invisible Exhibition Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, niewidzialna.pl Nothing challenges the sense of sight more than a total lack of it. Confused? Head to the Invisible Exhibition to learn the challenges faced by the blind. This includes everything from crossing the road to ordering a drink in a bar.

Polin - Museum of the History of Polish Jews ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl Composed of eight galleries, each covers a different stage of local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day. Covering 4,000 sq/m, highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec synagogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical interwar Jewish Warsaw street.

CSW ul. Jazdów 2, csw.art.pl Situated in a baroquestyle castle the center hosts artists from all over the world. The on-site bookshop is of particular interest for artists and intellectuals. .

National Museum Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars.

Dom Spotkań z Historią ul. Karowa 20, dsh.waw.pl The History

Palmiry National Memorial Museum Palmiry, palmiry.mhw.pl An excellent

multimedia exhibition set next to a cemetery holding the graves of 1,700 Poles executed in the first years of Nazi occupation. The museum tells their forgotten story, with archival video footage complimented by exhumed exhibits and plenty of background info dealing with the siege and subsequent occupation of Warsaw.

The Warsaw Amber Museum Rynek Starego Miasta 4/6, bursztynek.co Part of Bursztynek, a dedicated amber shop, has been turned into a curious museum detailing the history of amber.

Warsaw Rising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl Cope with the crowds to discover the definitive story of the 1944 Uprising. Exhibits range from a full-size replica of a Liberator plane, to a sewer beneath the cinema screen and a slice of bread preserved from 1944. And don’t miss the ‘City of Ruins’, a five minute 3D film which takes you on an aerial journey over devastated Warsaw. For panoramic views of Warsaw check the view tower.

Zachęta National Art Gallery Pl. Małachowskiego 3, zacheta.art.pl Featuring in the collection are works by ToulouseLautrec, Cezanne, Ernst and Picasso, as well as luminaries of the Polish art scene such as Tadeusz Kantor, Alina Szapocznikow, Katarzyna Kozyra and Zbigniew Libera.

w W a r s a www.city-tour.com.pl

Yellow Double-Decker Bus

Invites you to experience a panoramic tour of tourist attractions of the capital of Poland, Warsaw, in a relaxing and comfortable way.

Traveling over the course of approximately 1,5 hour, a double-decker bus will take you past many beautiful and interesting places of Warsaw, such as its interesting districts, palaces and churches, monuments and museums, parks and historical cemeteries, as well as the Jewish historical sites.

A GPS 12 language audio-guide, will give explanations and accompany you to make your ride a more adventurous, exciting and an unforgettable one.

Excellent Hop on Hop off and one trip service operates every day all year round.

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www.city-tour.com.pl

+48 500 033 414

www.warsawinsider.pl

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Good Riddance To Bad Rubbish

Now known as one of the most scenic views in Warsaw, Gnojna Góra hasn’t always enjoyed such a reputation.

We look back at the mucky reputation of the city’s former dumping ground... BY STUART DOWELL

W

here is the most feculent, putrid and downright rotten place in the whole of Warsaw? We all have our candidates. Mine was always the passenger walkway under Śródmieście station, an airless urinestained rat-run that could cause a nose bleed on entry. I believe it’s been cleaned up now. For many centuries though, this stinky honor went to Gnojna Góra, or Dung Hill to translate its name into English.

You can stand on top of it today in Old Town. Accessed through a charming, arched passage entered from ul. Jezuicka 2, you emerge onto a neat, cobbled terrace that offers breathtaking views of the Wisła valley. The two bridges, Gdański and Śląsko-Dąbrowski, knit the city together across its riverine fissure, while St. Florian’s church in distant Praga pinnacles upwards. No wonder that today it is a favorite spot for romantic strollers.

For most of Warsaw’s history though, this was the place where all the filth, excrement and slurry of the city was flung, and the

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site soon gained mountainous proportions. The mound was so fetid, that syphilitics were buried up to their necks in an early form of healthcare to rid themselves of the dreaded curse. By 1691, the odors had become so unbearable that a general order was issued under which all residents had to set about shifting the pongy heap to the river, which in those days ran right up to the embankment.

The plan failed, and the problem remained.

Matters came to a head in 1774.

The last King of Poland, Stanisław August Poniatowski, the great patron of culture and a fan of the achievements of Western European civilization, could take no more. It is said that on hot days the stench was so intolerable for the sensitive monarch that he blocked his nose with fragrant plugs. With a swipe of his quill, he inked a decree closing the hill to further rubbish dropping and renamed it to the ecological sounding Green Hill. It was hard for Warsaw’s poop-mongers to change their ways though, and they continued to toss slurry down the re-badged dump site.

One historical anecdote tells that when Napoleon Bonaparte arrived in Warsaw in 1807, he stood at the precipice to scout a suitable crossing for his Grande Armée, but was so repelled by the stench that he made a tactical retreat back to the castle, muttering indictments under his breath.

The smelly pile was finally grassed over in 1844, but it still caused problems. In 1923, when the monumental PKO Bank residential building was under construction, the loose, shifting ground caused the builders huge problems. The palatial staff housing was destroyed in the war and post-war architects decided not to rebuild, preferring to open up the medieval part of the Old Town to the Vistula. Architectural work in the 1960s revealed many important artifacts, so even today who knows what rotten mysteries lurk beneath the feet of those who come to enjoy the views or sled down it in winter.

PHOTOGRAPH PAP

LOOKING BACK

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