Warsaw Insider December 2016 #244

Warsaw The Capital’s Original City Magazine Since 1996

DECEMBER 2016

EST. 1996

244 12/2016

INDEKS 334901 ISSN:1643-1723

#

zł.10

(VAT 8% included)

• Winter In Old Town • Photo Scavenger Hunt!

• Xmas Gift Guide • Santa’s Story • Year In Review

ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER ALEXANDRE BIRMAN ANYA HINDMARCH AQUAZZURA BALMAIN BUSCEMI CASADEI CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN FRANCESCO RUSSO GIANVITO ROSSI HERVE LEGER ISABEL MARANT KENZO KOTUR MAISON MICHEL ONE TEASPOON SELF – PORTRAIT TOD’S TORY BURCH VALENTINO VICTORIA BECKHAM YVES SALOMON

Moliera 2 tel.: 228277099, www.Moliera2.com

DECEMBER 2016 Editor-in-chief Alex Webber

insider@warsawinsider.pl Art Director Kevin Demaria insider@warsawinsider.pl Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com

when everyone you’ve ever met is firmly of the opinion that the globe is spinning towards a fiery catastrophe.

Here at the Insider, though, we are nothing if not upbeat. What went right for Warsaw? Quite a lot, actually. While it doesn’t fit the common narrative, the reality is that on ground level it’s been a dynamite year, which is why this issue we’ve flipped back the calendar to search out the highlights of 2016. For our year in review, see page 26. Elsewhere, we’ve fallen over every cliché in the book to bring you the best of wintry Old Town, elected our Photographer of the Year, and taken a trip through time to view what Christmas once meant in the distant past. For God’s sake, cheer up everyone! Enjoy the holidays and see you in the New Year...

INFRONT

Opener 9 News 10 Holiday Food 12 Expat Life 14 Christmas Gift Guide 16

FEATURES

Photographer Of The Year 18 Winter In Old Town 20 Photo Scavenger Hunt 22 Christmas Through Time 24

2

Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

Year In Review 26

REVIEWS

Health & Beauty 99 In the City 102

Regina Bar 33 Rozbrat 20 34 Plato 36 Kuchnia Otwarta 37 Wabu 38

PARTNER NEWS

LISTINGS

INBACK

Wilanów 41 Restaurants 44 Cafes & Wine Bars 76 Nightlife 79 Shopping 84 Family 93

Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2016

The latest marketplace news from the Warsaw Insider’s friends and advertisers… 39 Map 110 Looking Back 112

Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com Senior Key Account Manager A. Julita Pryzmont jpryzmont@valkea.com ey Account Manager K Agata Sicińska asicinska@valkea.com Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com Subscription 12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland.

Orders can be placed through: insider@warsawinsider.pl Printed by Zakład Poligraficzny TECHGRAF Tel. (17) 225-28-69 VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies.

All information ©2016 Warsaw Insider.

on the cover There’s no better time to hit the Old Town than winter! Discover the best warming boltholes on p. 20.

(Illustration by Michał Miszkurka)

PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT

It’s tricky to remain upbeat

Contributors: Stuart Dowell Maria Mileńko Michał Miszkurka Ed Wight

BUSCEMI MEN CANADA GOOSE CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN MEN FAY GIANVITO ROSSI MEN HOGAN KENZO MONCLER MR&MRS ITALY ONE TEASPOON RALPH LAUREN TORY BURCH VALENTINO MEN BURBERRY CHILDREN DSQUARED2 KIDS KENZO KIDS MONCLER KIDS RALPH LAUREN KIDS TOD’S KIDS

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 tel.: +48 226221416, www.PlacTrzechKrzyzy.com

this month...

Music Festival

through time.

3-11 Dec @ various locations Five concerts are scheduled as part of this year’s festival, with acts including Andy McKee (Dec 3rd at Hybrydy) and the Jean-Luc Ponty Quartet (Dec 8th at Palladium).

Film Festival

Jazz Jamboree

For details, see: jazz-jamboree.pl

Pets

International Cat Show 3-4 Dec @ National Stadium Warsaw’s biggest cat show with have all sorts of breeds on display, as well as bits and pieces of feline paraphernalia.

For further info, see: pzf.pl

Cars

Barbórka 10 Dec @ ul. Karowa A vintage rally race around the curly ul. Karowa. Going strong since 1972, it’ll be accompanied by numerous events and stands to keep the fans busy.

For details, see: barborka.pl

Concert

90s Live 11 Dec @ Torwar, ul. Łazienkowska 6A Could this be the best night of your year, or your worst nightmare? 2Unlimited, Dr. Alban, Captain Jack and La Bouche will take center stage in this three-hour trip

Tickets from zł. 125 @ ebilet.pl

Watch Docs 9-15 Dec @ Kino Muranów (Andersa 5), CSW (Jazdów 1), Kino Antropos (Ethnographic Museum, Kredytowa 1), Iluzjon (Narbutta 50A) This acclaimed human rights film festival presents more than sixty films from around the world with screenings accompanied by Q&As with filmmakers, debates, lectures and workshops.

For info, see: watchdocs.pl

Concert

Benjamin Clementine 19 Dec @ Palladium, ul. Zgoda 9 Cited as one of the most important singer-songwriters of his generation, the depth and range of Clementine’s work has seen him compared to Leonard Cohen, Nina Simon and even Edith Piaf.

Tickets from zł. 140 @ eventim.pl

Concert

New Year’s Eve 31 Dec @ Pl. Defilad While further details remained a mystery at press time, Poland’s biggest free party will doubtlessly wheel out numerous national musical heroes, and quite possibly even some international ones as well. Expect tens of thousands to attend.

INVISIBLE EXHIBITION

info@niewidzialna.pl, www.niewidzialna.pl, tel. 504 324 444

This unique cultural, educational and social project offers an interactive journey through a world of darkness: a journey in which visitors experience what it means to be blind.... Deprived of sight, guests will learn to awaken their other senses: hearing, smell, touch, and even taste! Leading you through pitch black rooms, our blind guides will show you all that it means to be lose your sight: this visit will make you rethink your life! Come and experience an unforgettable adventure and explore the world of the Invisible Exhibition. Whether you’re looking for an interesting Christmas gift, a birthday present, a teambuilding exercise or a new idea for a date, book your tickets now on our website!

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Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2016

NA HOUSE VIEN

Discover the world of Vienna House

WHEN A HOTEL BECOMES YOUR HOUSE

VIENNAHOUSE.COM vienna house • vienna house easy andel’s by vienna house •angelo by vienna house

in

What’s hot, what’s not: the faces and stories trending around town THE TEMPLE IN NUMBERS

220

Million złotys

The amount spent thus far constructing the Wilanów Temple

60

Million złotys

The amount covered by the state budget

40

Million złotys

The original estimated cost of the Temple

30

Million złotys

The amount needed to complete outstanding work

100,000 People...

Estimated to have donated money to cover building costs

3,000

ILLUSTRATION BY DAWID MAJGAT WWW.MAJGAT.COM

Waiting For God

In a classic case of better late than never, Warsaw’s Temple of Divine Providence opened for worship on November 11th – nearly 225 years after the cornerstone was originally laid. First mooted during the reign of Poland’s last monarch, Stanisław August Poniatowski, the idea for a national temple was born from the adoption of the Constitution of May 3 in 1791. Described by historian Norman Davies as “the first constitution of its type in Europe”, it was decided that the signing of this seismic act should be commemorated by way of a grand votive offering to God. However, just months after work began on a suitable place of worship, Russian troops swept into town and construction was abandoned – today, a small chapel that was to form part of the Temple can be found sitting in Łazienki Park’s botanical garden.

With independence regained in 1918, fresh calls for a Temple were once again heard and a new blueprint for a skyscraper-style structure in Pole Mokotowskie was approved

by President Moscicki. But the building process was thwarted once again, this time by the Nazi invasion. Third time lucky, and work on a new Temple, this time in Wilanów, was initiated in 2002. Nicknamed ‘the Lemon Squeezer’ on account of its appearance, this architectural colossus was finally unveiled on Independence Day last month. (AW)

The number of people...

The Temple can hold in total

1,500

The seating capacity...

Of the Temple

75

Meters

The Temple’s height

65

Meters

The diameter of the Temple’s dome

www.warsawinsider.pl

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inFront

news

Simply The Best The Dialogue Centre Przełomy – a department of the National Museum in Szczeczin – has been named as the World Building of the Year at the World Architecture Festival in Berlin. Submerged under a sloping concrete plaza, the underground museum covers a 50-year period beginning with the outbreak of WWII and ending with the fall of communism. David Chipperfield, the chairman of the adjudication panel, noted the following: “This is a piece of topography as well as a museum... the design addresses the past in an optimistic, poetic and imaginative way.”

A Time for Heroes

A new monument honoring the lives of Henryk Sławik and Jozef Antall has been unveiled in Dolina Szwajcarska park. Lauded as heroes in Poland, Hungary and Israel, the two men are credited with saving 30,000 Polish refugees during WWII, among them 5,000 Jews. Sławik, a politician, died in Nazi captivity, while Antall, a Hungarian, survived the war and passed away in the 70s. The memorial depicts the pair locked in conspiratorial conversation.

Tall Tales

After months of speculation initial permission has been granted for a new landmark skyscraper. Located on an empty plot at the intersection of Chmielna and Al. Jana Pawła II, the 310-meter Chmielna Business Center will surpass London’s Shard by a meter, making it the tallest tower in the European Union. Expected to cover an area in excess of 140,000 sq/m, the 230-meter project will have its total height bumped up via the addition of an 80-meter spire and is set to be designed by Norman Foster. Famed for his innovative style, Foster’s CV includes the ‘Gherkin’ in London and the groundbreaking glass dome incorporated into the revamped Reichstag. With some final approvals still outstanding, further details regarding Chmielna Business Center remain scant, though some sources claim that the building could be completed by 2020.

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Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2016

inFront

holiday food

Carp(e) Diem

The traditional Wigilia dinner on Christmas Eve comes heavily mined with perils and pitfalls: here’s what to watch and how to sidestep disaster...

Soup will always play a role during Wigilia, and while some households might go for an almond soup, and others mushroom, most will opt for barszcz. Something of a classic, this beetroot soup is said to have

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Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2016

been kicking around since the 16th century. To score the best results, try fermenting your peeled beets with garlic and water several days beforehand to ensure maximum taste.

To go completely native, you’ll be wanting to serve the soup along with small mushroom dumplings (uszki) floating about.

Onto the bit everyone fears: carp.

Often kept in the bathtub in the days preceding Christmas (to filter out the mud), most carp in Poland is corn-fed and that taste often comes through. With this in mind, source your carp carefully: our recommendation, search out Dorota (a.k.a Pani Karp) at the Fortecca farmers’ market. Even with a quality fish secured, keep in mind there’s still plenty of scope to go wrong.

Common mistakes include overcooking the beast and frying it with oil rather than clarified butter.

Pierogi need zero introduction: the matriarch of each household will usually have her own highly confidential recipe, though one secret trick involves switching out the milk used in the preparation of the dough with sour cream – you’ll tell the improvement right away. Where fillings are concerned, the most popular on this meatless day include cottage cheese & fried onion (pieorgi Ruskie) or bigos (the Polski take on sauerkraut).

While it was traditionally said that the consumption of poppy seeds would lead to prosperity and fertility, the latter day popularity of makowiec (poppy seed cake) is explained in more prosaic terms: it’s tasty! With sweet sensations in relatively short supply, it goes without saying that this becomes one of the most coveted dishes on the dinner table – the only tip we have, sit as close to the makowiec as possible!

ILLUSTRATION BY MARIA MILEŃKO

With carp scaring the living daylights out of most, herring becomes an unlikely hero on Christmas Eve. Too bad that, in the words of Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, much of it comes “pickled in brutally acidic vinegar, which obliterates their oily succulence and flavor.” Instead, try marinating your own, while also escaping the monotony of the usual ‘dill and gherkin’ combo by mixing it with diced apple and sour cream.

And don’t eat it all at once: with (heavy) boozing on Wigilia largely frowned upon, save some for the less formal family get together the next day – there is no happier coupling than vodka and herring.

DECEMBER 31st 2016

NYE GALA 2017 A NIGHT TO REMEMBER AT

&

DINE, DANCE & BE ENTERTAINED AT WARSAW’S PREMIERE EXTRAVAGANZA Aperitif’s from 19.00 hrs  Dinner from 20.00 hrs 7 course menu  Night buffet All night open bar including selected spirits & cocktails Live music  DJ’s  Casino  Live shows & performances Dress code black tie  Adults only  Tables for 8 / 10 / 12 people Tickets PLN 795 p.p. incl. VAT For bookings call: 22 340 40 40 STIXX Bar & Grill Plac Europejski 4A, 00-844 Warsaw

www.stixx.pl

inFront

expat life

Share The Goodness

The Little Things Snuck away on Puławska, Poland’s smallest cafe is showing the public that size doesn’t count...

Dobro & Dobro isn’t small, it’s absolutely miniature. So miniature you suspect you’d be able to scoop it under your arm and squeeze it into the back of a Volvo. Measuring just six square meters, the tiniest cafe in Poland is the work of Oleg and Inna, a super cool Ukrainian couple who moved to Warsaw last year. Formerly a florist, ice cream shop and gambling den (not, alas, all at the same time), what little space there is has been re-purposed as an orange colored coffee stop. Miraculously, almost, there’s been a time when 12 people have squashed inside: “a record,” says Oleg. “But this isn’t a marketing gimmick,” adds Inna, “this is our first business so we didn’t want to take the risk on something bigger.” Nonetheless, with visitors from as afar afield as Belarus and Russia, the unexpected publicity has had fringe benefits. As easy as it is to miss from the outside, Dobro has, accidentally almost, grown into something of a cult stop for visitors to tick off. Do so yourself.

Dobro & Dobro Cafe ul. Puławska 11

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Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2016

PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

“We believe in the boomerang effect,” says Inna, “that if you do something good, then something good will happen to you.” For this reason, Dobro & Dobro offer customers the chance to buy a ‘suspended coffee’.

Simply order a coffee in advance for a friend or a stranger, write a personal message on the cup, and then leave it hanging on a string by the counter until it’s redeemed by the person that its intended for.

The recently opened restaurant and bar Mokotowska 69 is a perfect place for those who enjoy refined food and excellent wine.

The restaurant offers classic Polish dishes with a modern twist, delicious steaks and a wide range of wine from all over the world.

Mokotowska 69 was designed for those who enjoy Polish cuisine and those who would like to try classic Polish dishes with a modern twist, such as Mazurian crayfish in rowan brandy cream sauce, roasted catfish with pearl barley and beets or roasted duck with pears and blackcurrant. The restaurant also specialises in steaks made from American Black Angus (certified prime grade by the USDA), Scottish Aberdeen Angus and the highest quality Japanese Tajima-gyu cattle, “Kobe-style”: class 5, marbling 9+. ul. Mokotowska 69, tel. (+48 22) 628 73 84 / (+48 22) 627 20 33, www.mokotowska69.pl

The restaurant and wine store Merliniego 5, located vis-à- vis the main entrance to the Warszawianka Aqua Park, is the ideal place for those who love good food and fantastic wines. Merliniego 5 specialises in seafood dishes and steaks made of American Black Angus (prime beef USDA certified), especially selected from the New York-based OTTOMANELLI & SONS butchery. The restaurant also serves steaks made of the Aberdeen Angus and top quality Japanese beef from Tajima cattle, “Kobe style” (grade 5A/BMS 9+). Further, menu offers seasonal and traditional Polish cuisine dishes. At the end of 2011, the readers of Gazeta Stołeczna granted us the prestigious title of Knajpa Roku 2011 (Eating Establishment of the Year 2011). Since 2013 we have also been listed in the Michelin Guide. ul. Merliniego 5, tel. (+48 22) 646 08 10 / (+48 22) 646 08 49, www.merliniego5.pl

inFront

gifts

Smart & Simple Paper, canvas, cardboard: for something simple but effective this Christmas, check out these Warsaw-themed gifts that won’t break the bank...

Glue and scissors at the ready: the communist housing blocks of Warsaw are all yours to build or burn. Blokoshka, zł. 29.

See: sklep.resetpoint.pl

The sky high images of Maciej Margas and Blogusz are available in both large format or in a handy calendar. Pictured: calendar, zł. 49 (small), zł. 149 (large).

See: warsawgiftshop.com

After the runaway success of her first book, Fanny Vaucher returns with Polish Pills 2: filled with cute illustrations and wry observations on life in Warsaw & PL, this is an often hilarious romp through the puzzles and conundrums of everyday Poland.

French/ English/Polish language.

Wawa Bla Bla is a goldmine for original posters and canvases by local upcoming street artists. Prices range from zł. 150 to zł. 4,000.

See: wawablabla.pl

Price, zł. 44.

See: beczmiana.pl

Best known as Light At Night, the jawdropping photos of Kuba Jurkowski are available in a variety of formats. Prices range from zł. 50 to zł. 861.

See: nowawarszawasklep.pl

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Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2016

Relive the sweaty summers of the 70s and 80s in Mikołaj Długosz’s lovingly assembled photographic album. English/Polish language.

Price: zł. 67. See: beczmiana.pl

WE WISH YOU BUBBLY CHRISTMAS AND BUBBLY NEW YEAR!

At Bubbles you will learn that this particular type of drink is not just for big celebrations: it’s also a perfect match with simple dishes that can be enjoyed on any occasion – Champagne is our passion!

Plac Piłsudskiego 9 tel. +48 512 540 913 bubbles.com.pl office@bubbles.com.pl

FREE GLASS OF CHAMPAGNE WITH THIS AD FREE GLASS OF WINE WITH THIS AD

BEST POLISH CUISINE IN WARSAW!

Our interiors are simple, clear, and easy to understand... the modernity of our cuisine is intertwined with art and passion and seamlessly connects with fine taste... ul. Różana 2 tel. +48 784 902 902, 22 828 99 11 restauracjaakademia.pl info@restauracjaakademia.pl

YEAR IN REVIEW PHOTOGRAPHY

PHOTOGRAPHER OF THE YEAR

It’s been another magnificent year on our Facebook, and once again that’s wholly down to the daily contributions of our 63,000 followers.

From such rich pickings it’s difficult to single out the work of one photographer, however, Kamil Leczkowski has stood apart in the way he has captured the spirit of the city. For more on Kamil’s work, check: fb.com/KamilLeczkowskiPhoto

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Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2016

www.warsawinsider.pl

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EXPLORING OLD TOWN

Cozy Christmas

Never do the nooks and niches of Warsaw’s Old Town feel so welcoming as they do at Christmas. Top up your seasonal spirit level by ticking off the essentials.

Bar & Books

ul. Wąski Dunaj 20 It sometimes feels that B&B was created with long, wintry nights in mind. A warming cocoon of class and sophistication, it’s book-lined, woodpaneled walls evoke memories of the kind of rural golf club bars you find in Hampshire or the Highlands. Settle in by the fireplace and spark a cigar while bow-tied staff present elegant whisky and cocktails with a seasonal twist.

Karmnik

ul. Piwna 4A

Despite a concerted bid to update their look for a more modern crowd, Karmnik have retained a welcoming ambiance that embraces all. Atmosphere builds up fast under the vaulted ceilings, and that’s especially true in winter when the windows fog up and the floor space crowds out.

Ice Skating Rynek Starego Miasto

Christmas Tree Pl. Zamkowy

Prepare to be dazzled on December 3rd. That’s the day when, on the stroke of 5 p.m., Santa will flick the switch and light Warsaw’s favorite Christmas Tree. Don’t think you’ll be alone though – last year’s event pulled in crowds of over 100,000.

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Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2016

Find the city’s most enchanting ice rink shaped around the saber wielding form of the Warsaw mermaid.

Opening at the start of December it will, like before, be framed by a number of wooden chalets selling mulled wine and grilled sausages.

Lapidarium

ul. Nowomiejska 15/17

PHOTOGRAPHS BY ED WIGHT

Cascading with trinkets, treasure, junk and bunkum, this antique store presents the opportunity for an afternoon spent endlessly rummaging. A labor of love if ever there was, the collection amassed by the owner isn’t short on eccentric, little finds, and is always an intriguing break from the world outside.

… And New Town

ul. Freta / Rynek Nowego Miasto

Freta is once again set to transform into a tunnel of light thanks to the installation of thousands of glimmering illuminations hanging overhead. Walking underneath while snowflakes tumble down is a moment of pure Disney joy, one that takes a turn for the surreal in the square itself: if previous years are anything to rely on, it’s here you’ll find a talking bear.

Christmas Market ul. Podwale

Curling around ul. Podwale find dozens of dinky timber cabins specializing in items you’d only ever really buy at Christmas: sheepskin slippers, hand-carved animals, spooky puppets and pink, woolly socks. In and among all that, find numerous hidey holes dealing out piping hot wine and roasted horse chestnuts.

Same Krafty

ul. Nowomiejska 10

Occupying two narrow, rugged rooms, Same Krafty have rescued Old Town from big beer brands peddling piss. Offering artisan alternatives, this intimate bar has become a magnet for those looking to explore the more subversive side of Polish brewing. That this happens in such an amicable venue makes it all the better, particularly in December when drinkers squash in to shelter from the frostbitten streets.

Kompania Piwna ul. Podwale 25

The food is unapologetic in its barely average quality, but a visit to Kompania Piwna has become almost a Christmas standard. Set through an arched gateway, KP opens out into a beer hall style setup in which the sense of rowdy joviality is further enforced by a mountain band that strolls between tables parping into trumpets.

www.warsawinsider.pl

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PHOTO SCAVENGER HUNT OLD TOWN

Wisła Barbakan

Rynek

Royal Castle

Pl. Zamkowy

Hide & Seek

The Royal Castle, check. Mermaid, done. Barbakan, likewise.

The glories of Warsaw’s Old Town are substantial, yet it’s precisely because of these big postcard landmarks that the minutiae often slip under the radar. As the saying goes though, the devil is in the detail.

Beyond the unmissable sights, the historic center is awash with quirky, incidental elements that often go unnoticed. It’s these, however, that truly shape the area and make it the riveting district that it is.

So for one afternoon at least, peel your eyes from Zygmunt’s Column and instead sniff out the Old Town’s lesser known components.

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Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2016

Rule Book: couldn’t be easier – use your finest tracking skills to simply match the details on the left to the map above.

All the equipment you’ll need is a working pen and a pair of eyes...

1

2

3

4

5

6 www.warsawinsider.pl

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CHRISTMAS THROUGH THE AGES

THE GHOSTS OF CHRISTMAS PAST

Largely resistant to the blanket commercialization we’ve seen in the west, if Christmas in Poland can feel a little serious and solemn then that’s nothing compared to days gone by... BY STUART DOWELL

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Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2016

M

ost of us who have been in Warsaw for a while realize that Christmas here is a bit different than at home. We feast on turkey, they nibble piously at carp; we pull crackers, they break the corners off communion wafers; and we cheer on 007, while they root for Kevin at home on his own.

It is hard to overstate the importance of Christmas for the people of Warsaw. Although modern consumerism is nibbling at its edges, the holiday still retains its grace and beauty. The giving and receiving of Christmas wishes exemplifies this best. While on Christmas Eve many of my fellow Brits are sozzled in deafening pubs screaming along to Slade’s Merry Xmas Everyone, most Poles are at home extending carefully tailored wishes to each member of their family. Looking directly into the eyes of the recipient, the wisher unwraps their verbal gift and offers the sincere hope of health, happiness, fulfilled dreams, a happy family life or professional success. The gift is received with thanks and decorum, while the transaction is sealed with the obligatory three kisses.

Christmas hasn’t always been celebrated in these parts.

Even well after Poland’s baptism in 966, the old Slavonic holiday of Gody was the main ritual. Falling on the winter solstice, it symbolized the victory of light over darkness and was preceded by the Grand Feast the day before. An important part of Gody was predicting the weather for the coming year. It is said that the person making the augury would pull straw at random from a pile under the table covering and divinate the future rains based on its length.

This straw was later reinterpreted to symbolize the bedding of Baby Jesus’s manger.

Other traditions that we recognize today were practiced during Gody. Children from poor families would tramp around from house to house and sing for a few scraps of food, while other children, from more affluent homes, would receive gifts from their parents in the form of a few nuts or an apple. Instead of decorating Christmas trees, people would place the first sheaf of grain from that year’s harvest in the corner of the main room and decorate it with dried fruits. It would sit there until the spring, when the seeds would be sown first in that planting.

Christmas eventually won its head-to-head with the winter solstice and in the middle ages it was celebrated uproariously and with great revelry. It was only in the 17th century that the traditions that we know today emerged and the holy days were observed with more solemn righteousness. After an early mass on Christmas morning, families would gather around a heavily-laden table and indulge in robust carol singing and more robust prayer. No work was done on the 25th, not even tidying up, cutting wood or bringing water from the well. There were also prohibitions on combing one’s hair and looking in the mirror.

Keep the DeLorean in the garage though time-travelers, because afternoon naps were also banned.

In the past, Warsaw had its own Christmas traditions that have now disappeared. One of these was the election of the Almond King. A sponge cake would be baked and one almond placed inside; when the family gathered and the cake was cut everyone would look eagerly inside their slice to see if they were to be the new Almond King. If a young woman got the nut, it was taken as an omen of imminent matrimony.

“Keep the DeLorean in the garage though timetravelers, because even afternoon naps were also banned at Christmas...”

Another forgotten and formerly cherished Warsaw tradition was throwing oats at priests. It took place on 26th December on St. Stephen’s day and symbolized the stoning of the first Christian martyr. Eventually, the ritual was banned on health and safety grounds, as some parishioners, unhappy with their cleric’s ministrations, would take the symbolism of stoning too literally.

One Christmas time tradition still enjoyed by Warsaw’s residents is ice-skating. In the past, there were many openair ice rinks and people even skated on the Wisła. Those who lived in the city before the war remember fondly the rink at the Markiewicz Viaduct behind the Hotel Bristol.

Chairs specially fitted with skids could be rented, which offered Romeos a great opportunity to hook young maidens, who loved being pushed around the rink like a snow princess.

During the German occupation, Christmas was far from a happy time for the people of Warsaw. Danger lay at every turn, and even popping out for cigarettes could end with being rounded up and sent to a concentration camp. Varsovians got an early taste of German brutality when after the killing of two German officers in Wawer, 106 innocent people were rounded up and shot on the 26th and 27th December, 1939.

Organizing Christmas Eve supper during the occupation was a huge challenge for every family. Housewives learned how to prepare potatoes in a multitude of different ways and minnows stood in for carp. When essential goods were unavailable, smugglers filled the gap, but the prices were horrendous. During the harshest of years, Christmas symbolized hope even if the table was bare, and Varsovians would sit with their kin and dare to hope that next year they would celebrate the holiday in peace and freedom. www.warsawinsider.pl

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YEAR IN REVIEW

ON YER BIKE!

Warsaw’s monthly Critical Mass bike ride is no more! First held in 2002, the gathering was originally coordinated to both encourage the use of bikes as a means of transport whilst also highlighting the lack of necessary infrastructure available for cyclists. However, organizers have said that their objectives have since been met: in the past years some 470 kilometers of cycle routes have been constructed, and a further 160 kilometers are set to be added in the future. Now, instead of paralyzing city center traffic each month, those behind the initiative will focus on less disruptive means to promote cycling. Loved by some, loathed by others, the event often attracted hundreds, sometimes thousands of participants.

YEAR IN REVIEW It’s trite to say so, but what a year that was... If you’re the sort of gloom monger that views their glass as half-empty, then you’ll probably be thinking Poland is about to plunge off a precipice. That maybe so, but it’s sure as hell been interesting getting there. For the benefit of those who can’t remember what color pants they put on this morning, we take a look at some of the highs and lows that may have been forgotten...

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Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2016

The art of communist era neon has enjoyed a huge resurgence that’s manifested itself not just in the protection of surviving relics, but also the appearance of many new.

POP UP!

There’s a fairy tale innocence to Mirella Von Chrupek’s miniature worlds; appearing in unexpected locations around town, the artist’s pop-up galleries are irreverent, eccentric but always good fun. For her best known work, snoop about a little to locate the street-side display box on Marszałkowska 43.

Updated every few months, Warsaw’s smallest exhibition space is a burst of joy on a dark, December day. If you’re in luck, you might run into the artist herself tending to her work.

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YEAR IN REVIEW

ONE FOR THE BOOKS

It’s often said that the internet killed the bookshop; while there’s an element of truth to that, the bare facts haven’t stopped a number of romantics from plugging away and placing their faith in paper. Although their name suggests otherwise, Radio Telewizja are part of this shrinking band of stores that persist with the printed word, and the way they do so deserves an ovation. Tinctured with a retro atmosphere, it’s a place to pop in for a coffee, catchup on local news and gossip and browse through an extraordinary offer of quirky reading material that specializes in local art and architecture and recent(ish) history.

CULTURE SHOCK

In its short lifespan the Polin Museum of the History of Polish Jews has had to get accustomed to attention. Even so, not many could have expected it to be named the European Museum of the Year at the illustrious EMYA Awards. Fully deserved, the prize doesn’t just reflect well on Polin but also on Warsaw itself.

WATER WONDER

While Bulwary Karskiego was officially unveiled last year, this was the first full summer Warsaw could enjoy it. Costing approximately zł. 160 million, this waterfront development gave the sunny months a new impetus with its modern art trails, view points and social spaces.

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FIGHT THE POWER

Well, well, well, what a political pickle the planet has found itself in: Poland has been no exception, and 2016 will be remembered as the year of public protest. Marching under the banner of KOD, anti-government, pro-liberal / pro-EU demonstrations have become a regular weekend ritual, often attracting tens of thousands of people. However, it was November’s Czarny Protest that made international headlines after an estimated 30,000 people took to the streets of Warsaw to voice their opposition to proposed changes to the law that would have seen a blanket ban on abortion. According to reports, this number was supplemented by a further seven million women skipping work as part of a nationwide strike. Not surprisingly, the government quickly backed down...

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YEAR IN REVIEW

THE WALL OF BOWIE

David Bowie fell to earth with a bump in the 1970s when, while enroute to Moscow, his train found itself stopping at Dw. Gdański train station for a technical break. Making the most of this stopover, the artist set off on foot to explore Warsaw and ended up nosing around Żoliborz and picking up an armful of Polish LPs from a record store on Pl. Wilsona. Short while it was, this foray was enough to inspire The Thin White Duke to write Warszawa, an eerie instrumental that was recorded in 1976.

The impact of Bowie’s death earlier this year stirred locals to rally round and commemorate the superstar’s visit to this corner of town by way of a crowdfunded mural on Marii Kazimiery 1. Painted

by Dawid Celek, it’s been widely hailed as the defining public artwork of 2016.

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IN-SPIRED

It’s not uncommon for the people of Warsaw to go crazy for an architectural rendering only to then express their horror once the project is completed: “but that’s not how it looked in the pictures,” they gasp. The Warsaw Spire, therefore, has been one of those rare examples that has delivered all that was promised – and more.

While all eyes naturally fall on the 220-meter tower, it is the creation of Pl. Europejski outside that elevates this development to the realm of special. A tranquil sanctuary of curving pathways, tinkling water features and illuminated art installations, even in winter when the trees are bare and the fountains dry you get the sense that something significant has been built: something truly European.

A ROYAL EVENT

Shining like a jagged chunk of quartz, there were some who questioned if the Royal Wilanów complex would work: well, it has.

Uniting a neighborhood that has at times lacked its own place in the world, this mixed-use project has emerged strongly as the district’s social compass.

UNDEFEATED!

Seemingly betrayed by the building’s owner, the Jewish Theater – one of the last surviving Yiddish language theaters in Europe – found itself locked out of its home this summer. Unperturbed, the company took their performances outdoors. Golda Tencer, the director, has pledged defiance: “theater isn’t about walls and buildings, it’s about people – we are the theater. Us and our viewers.” The saga is set to continue into 2017.

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YEAR IN REVIEW

GOING, GOING, GONE? Regarded by its fans as a glorious piece of

modernist real estate, the Emilia department store finally lost its fight for survival... sort of.

Dismantled to make way for a skyscraper, the concrete eyeful will now be rebuilt elsewhere, in all probability across the road by the Palace of Culture.

TALK OF THE TOWN The revamped Hala Koszyki has divided opinion: detractors claim it’s a missed opportunity to truly promote those at the forefront of Poland’s radical artisan renaissance. It’s fans, on the other hand, lionize this upmarket food hall as an international class venue that’s carried Warsaw forward.

Whichever point of view you buy into, the truth is nowhere else has generated anywhere near this much publicity.

Whatever you think of it, the Koszyki concept has ripped up the rules: imitators will follow, not just in Warsaw but also across the rest of the country.

In years to come, remember the first domino fell here.

STANDARD SETTER

Best use of a dead space this year? The Nocny Market. Set on a decomposing train platform, this summer smash hit did the impossible in diverting people away from the permissive pleasures of the Wisła. Assembling a diverse rotation of independent traders, this was more than just a cool food market, it was a place to get tattooed, have a dance, buy some socks and stock up on donuts: it was everything!

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REVIEWS

PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE KEVIN DEMARIA

RESTAURANTS 44 CAFES & WINE BARS 76 NIGHTLIFE 79 SHOPPING 84 FAMILY 93 HEALTH & BEAUTY 99 IN THE CITY 102

NEW YORK STATE OF MIND

Stepping past a pair of flowing red drapes at the entrance, guests are ushered in to discover an eclectic world that marries the tastes of New York’s Little Italy to Chinatown next door. This is done excellently with the menu presenting the very essence of ethnic comfort food: General Tso’s chicken, Cantonese roast duck and light, leopard-spotted pizzas. Brought to you by the makers of MOD, it’s therefore natural that the original style extends to kooky interiors tinged with a trace of retro: a tall mirrored wall and the kind of sparkling chandelier last seen in Boogie Nights. The setting naturally slots in with a philosophy that aims to see Regina grow equally as a bar, hence you’ll also find an Asian-inspired cocktail list with names that translate into things most mischievous.

Regina Bar ul. Koszykowa 1, fb.com/Reginabar www.warsawinsider.pl

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REVIEWS Rozbrat Revolution

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

Powiśle evolves from hipster haven to foodie fairyland...

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Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2016

t

here was a time when Powiśle was the volcanic center of what history will remember as Warsaw’s dalliance with hipsterdom. Now the area has moved forward, gentrified and matured. If once the district was (in) famous for grotto-like shops and bizarre street fashions, today its a polished place of four-wheel jeeps and fancy design stores – parts of it, at least. That’s especially true of Rozbrat, an aspirational street in the process of gradually being infilled with brasseries and bistros.

Rozbrat 20 is one such place, a smart corner venue populated by shiny people with neat manicures and tight fitting trousers – and that’s just the men. Looking about, you sense the bright, busy optimism of modern day Warsaw: there’s not one person present who doesn’t look like they weren’t born for good times and success. Casting personal envy aside, it’s a pleasure to soak in such gentle, pleasant waters.

It’s a pleasure, also, to consider the menu. Much noise has been made about Rozbrat 20’s bread and wine selection, but their food is also something of a standout. Now offering a tasting menu (zł. 130, an extra zł. 110 with wine pairings), this six-course degustation begins with not one amuse bouche from the chef, but three. Chicken wing confit with grapefruit chutney and mustard leaves is promising, but nothing delivers as much excitement as a beef and pork croquette. Served on a bone with a smudge of smoked apple puree, I can tell it’s good before I’ve even started for this is the first time I’ve seen the photographer crack a smile since the election of Donald Trump.

All this though is just a drum roll. The first course appears in a whorl of pond green colors: cucumber, dill, apple. Under

that lot, twirls of herring pickled in vinegar and herbs bring this dish together on a light cloud of freshness. Decoratively speaking, the beetroot salad that arrives next is the star of the stage, with its deep colors and sprinkling of horseradish ‘snow’ giving it the appearance of a dessert. A cylinder of goat cheese balances out the sweetness, but while everything works and makes sense the portioning is a little too generous. Sometimes less is more. No such problems with the Hungarian foie gras: complimented with chestnut and milk sauce, not to mention celery, apple and smoked bacon, its expertly assembled and boisterously flavored.

Zander is becoming quite common in Warsaw’s restaurants, but not in this form. Introducing mussels and basil puree, it’s a course that eats almost as if it were a fish consomme.

Altogether heavier but every bit as harmonious is a roll of soft, gelatinous pork with kale and quince puree. Every great meal needs a moment of real flair, and this is Rozbrat’s memory maker. Dressed with ribbons of crispy salsify, it’s a robust winter dish full of reassuring, fleshy taste. Neither does dessert let anyone down, with frozen salted caramel served inside a stone-like shell that cracks open to reveal its glorious golden ooze. If there are any weaknesses identified, then they are mine and mine alone: an inability to say no leads to one glass too many. But hey, that’s what the carefree and beautiful do, right? Now I’m one of them, for an afternoon at least. (AW) Rozbrat 20 ul. Rozbrat 20, rozbrat20.com.pl www.warsawinsider.pl

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REVIEWS

i

The Complete Works of Plato Wilanów gets wise to top quality dining...

t isn’t impossible to write about Plato without first mentioning Senses, but it’s certainly hard. This is why: as recipients of Poland’s second Michelin star, Senses are seen in a celestial light when it comes to both excellence and experimentation. But why am I mentioning them in the first place? Because Plato fall under the patronage of the same crew: this doesn’t just set expectations unusually high, it also makes comparisons inevitable.

For all that, pitting the two together head-to-head just doesn’t work – the base differences are too acute. While Senses is all show and spend and scientific wisdom, Plato is a little more modest and understandable. Conceived as a ‘smart casual’ restaurant, it’s a reasonably compact space with a modern style and pendulum bulbs hanging from a complex cat’s cradle of interweaving wires: classy but nothing too flashy or flamboyant.

Then there’s the menu, a strange work that sees Spanish influences brushing shoulders next to Polish and Asian. It sounds silly and preposterous but my God it works.

First, there’s a potato soup, a warming winter cream that’s layered with so many leaves and mushrooms it looks more akin to the floor of a forest. Wonderful. Next, beef tartar cut from the loin of a Polish Hereford. Hidden in a mass of garlic mayonnaise and Chinese-style fermented cabbage it’s a dish of such sophistication that the natural reaction is to let out a sigh. It gets more interesting still with a foie gras parfait with a topping of fermented blueberries and a splotch of hazelnut

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foam – blindfolded, such is the consistency you’d guess you were eating ice cream. An oriental broth follows containing prawns and shiitake mushrooms: inspired by Japanese dashi soup, it’s silky, salty and above all aromatic. Gathering flavor with the more you eat, it’s a sad moment when you realize that there is no more. The main course, halibut, comes encircled with sage pesto, redcurrants and fresh almonds. Cooked sous-vide and then fried a little, the fish is high on refined, subtle flavor. So too is dessert, a financier with lime foam, mint powder and yogurt. Elegant but understated, it’s a fine end to a meal that has thrilled.

With all this in mind, you’ll want to know the catch... Certainly, it’s not the price. It ain’t a giveaway, but with mains never peaking much beyond zł. 70 it’s definitely affordable. Neither is it the staff: young, fun but always professional, they’re a credit to the venue. No, the downside is the location: while Wilanów is more accesible than ever before, this is exactly the kind of restaurant you want right round the corner – your corner.

Nonetheless, the fact that you’d happily travel out regardless says much for the cooking Michał Gniadek. A graduate of the Senses kitchen, this chef has clearly studied hard and emerged in his own right as one to watch. (AW) Plato ul. Klimczaka 1 (Royal Wilanow), restauracjaplato.pl

In A Stew

Winter in Warsaw isn’t about feeling cold, it’s about finding warmth. Leave the frost behind by heading to Kuchnia Otwarta for Michał Molenda’s signature stew. Served in a sturdy cast iron pot, it’s a dark, delicious dish loaded with porcini mushrooms, dried plums, bacon and boar. Heavy, robust and thick with goodness, this is a dish that heats the heart and embraces the soul.

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

Kuchnia Otwarta ul. Klimczaka 1 (Royal Wilanów), kuchniaotwarta.pl

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REVIEWS

Wabu 2.0

A new age dawns for a Japanese giant...

w

abu: remember them? Originally opened on Krucza, the place rose to prominence for premium sushi the like of which Warsaw had not tasted before. Inexplicably, just as word was spreading about their brilliance, they closed. The city despaired. As it turns out, this was a temporary measure and now, following a six-month hiatus, Wabu have relaunched at a new address on Pl. Europejski.

Visually, the two couldn’t be more different. If the prototype had a failing, then it was its shock-white color scheme: fine at night with lights dimmed, but during the day a harsh reminder of your last dental disaster. In contrast, the new look Wabu is stunning: charcoal shades, sake drums etched with the haikus of 17th century poet Matsuo Bashu and swooning views of the square outside. It’s beautiful.

Continuity has been supplied via the retention of the sushi master and his exploratory menu is a hymn to artful craftsmanship: discs of Wagyu beef served up as gourmet mini-burgers; a life affirming beef broth swirling with flavor; tuna ceviche that snaps with freshness. Onwards, and our journey through modern Japanese cuisine progresses further via crab salad wrapped with tamago, tuna toro with foie gras and salmon crowned with seaweed. Offering an array of tapas-type bites, Wabu is an immaculate, unexpected and utterly masterful experience: a creative and contemporary re-imaging of a classic kitchen. (AW) Wabu Pl. Europejski 2, wabu.pl

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Partner News The latest marketplace news from the Warsaw Insider’s friends and advertisers…

Amber Light

With two generations of experience under our belt, Bursztynek is the No. 1 store for stunning amber jewelry and artifacts.

Beyond directing customers towards the perfect Christmas gift, we’re also keen to educate those who visit us about the history of this commodity. To do so we’ve turned part of our Old Town emporium into a fascinating museum!

Bursztynek Rynek Starego Miasta 4/6, bursztynek.co

Wine & Dine

La Rotisserie will be opening its doors for the duration of the holiday period beginning with a Christmas Eve dinner priced from zł. 152 to zł.

194. Further, they’ll also be holding their celebrated five-course ‘Linner’ on the 25th and 26th (zł. 200), while New Year’s Eve promises an evening of wine and fine dining complete with a 7-course meal and elegant live music (zł. 645).

La Rotisserie ul. Kościelna 12 (Le Regina Hotel), rotisserie.pl

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Pa N rtn ew er s

Regional Special!

Discover the delicious world of Polish cuisine inside Specjały Regionalne. We source our produce from small, family-run, ecological farms ensuring only the most authentic tastes end up on your table. We also offer tasting classes that take you through the world of Polish vodka, mead and liquor, as well as organizing pierogi workshops that reveal the secrets of the dumpling!

Specjały Regionalne ul. Nowy Świat 44, specjalyregionalne.pl

Xmas Brunch

The Sofitel have the pleasure of inviting one and all to their Christmas brunch to be held on December 25th. For the price of zł. 175 guests will be able to enjoy delicacies such as Fine de Claire oysters, lobster, foie gras terrine and turkey with chestnuts. A fully equipped and supervised kids’ corner will also be in service for those interested in bringing their children along. Prices include a welcome drink, beer, wine and soft drinks.

Children from 6-12 years of age receive a 50% discount, while children under the age of 6 are free.

Kitchen Gallery ul. Królewska 11 (Sofitel Warszawa), sofitel.com/warsaw

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Chomp-ignon

Hoping to change local perceptions of the champignon is upcoming chef Janek Paszkowski, and he’s created a special sandwich showcasing its greatness: a ciabatta with fried mushrooms, carmelized onions, scrambled eggs, mascarpone and fresh spinach. Outside of normal hours, be aware that Janek will also be cooking up a dinner to remember on Christmas Eve: book now!

Bułkę / Bibułkę Śródmieście ul. Zgoda 3, bulkeprzezbibulke.pl

Wilanów

neighborhood THINGS TO DO Although it’s the Christmas decorations that draw the

crowds to Wilanów Palace & Gardens in December, a daylight walk under pale wintry sunshine is not to be missed...

ORDER OF THE DAY

Come winter and crowds converge on Wilanów at dusk, specifically to soak up the innocent pleasures offered by its seasonal illuminations. But daytime meanderings are also recommended, with the daylight hours posing the brittle beauty of nature against the manmade elegance of this ‘Polish Versailles’.

Wilanów Palace & Gardens ul. Stanislawa Kostki Potockiego 10/16, wilanow-palac.pl

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neighborhood / wilanów joint: it’s a strip steak on one side and a tenderloin on the other. Chef Paweł Gajownik personally oversees the aging process.

eat & drink Basico ul. Branickiego 11, basico.pl Airy and spacious the mood is light and modern, the food, meanwhile, isn’t over-complicated. It’s simple, fresh and truthful to Italian standards.

Bay Kebab Al. Rzeczypospolitej 12, baykebab.com Even your dapper Wilanowian enjoys a kebab: teething problems aside (mixed orders and general chaos), Bay is a notch above most inner city gambles.

Bel Paese ul. Sarmacka 22, belpaese.pl Looking around the tables and you’ll see most customers diving into pizzas: but that overlooks the fact that the pastas in this highly casual neighborhood haunt are both interesting and quite often on-point.

Bierhalle ul. Klimczaka 1, bierhalle.pl The latest Bierhalle venture is the shining pearl of this long-established empire. The beer is freshly brewed on-site and served with food befitting of the beer hall aesthetic.

Bistecca Bistro ul. Branickiego 11, bistecca.pl Opened over four years back, Bistecca is something of a pioneer when it comes to quality beef. Outsiders travel from outside Wilanów’s immediate catchment area to sample meat dishes that include their signature one kilo T-Bone shaped

The Beer Store Al. Rzeczypospolitej 14 In an area where bar options are thin on the ground, The Beer Store is a veritable lifeline. Cult international beers and Polish craft ales served to a very grateful audience.

Czerwona Krowa Al. Rzeczypospolitej 18 Presenting the new face of butchery, Czerwona Krowa is just about the most attractive store you’ll find selling meat. Beyond the token aesthetics, this is a place that’s deadly serious about their meat: sourcing their produce from selected farmsteads, find numerous specialty cuts as well as their own seasoned beef.

Deli Paris ul. Kazachska 1, deliparis.pl Pre-empting Warsaw’s surge towards artisan bakeries, Deli Paris have been at it since 2011. Aside from baked goods, the menu places crepes on a pedestal.

Dunkin’ Donuts ul. Klimczaka 1 After an absence of well over a decade, how Warsaw cheered on learning DD were returning. Smaller than the average store, but do you think anyone cares?

Gorący Pies Al. Rzeczypospolitej 10 Artisan burgers, creative hot dogs and local ingredients: this is street food with an upmarket Wilanów twist

INSIDER PICK Tripping The Light Fantastic Set in the extensive gardens of Wilanów Palace, the Royal Garden of Light is back once more, offering spellbound families the chance to crunch across the frost through a series of outdoor attractions cascading with 300,000 pulsating, colored diodes. Accompanied by the sounds of classical music, visitors walk through different thematic areas that riff on surreal themes that leave everyone bewitched.

Wilanów Palace Gardens ul. Stanislawa Kostki Potockiego 10/16, open daily 4 p.m. till 9 p.m., admission from zł. 5-10 (children under 7 free)

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– you’ll hear no complaints from us. The house specialty shares the restaurant’s name, and involves a hot dog featuring lamb sausage and onion jam.

Kuchnia Otwarta ul. Klimczaka 1, kuchniaotwarta.pl A restaurant with serious ambitions to be the best in the area: a beautiful layout that’s modern and open is complemented by a varied menu by Michał Molenda with something for all ages and tastes.

Kuźnia Kulturalna ul. S.K. Potockiego 24, kuzniakulturalna. pl With its massive play area (there’s even a beach in the summer!), well-stocked bar, and diverse menu this former blacksmith’s is something of a catch-all solution. It’s position close to the palace draws in as many tourists as it does locals.

Milanovo ul. S.K. Potockiego 24, milanovo.pl A relaxed white-clad spot a hop away from all the sights.

The menu is pretty vast, though most skip straight to the pizza.

Naturel ul. Klimczaka 1, naturel7.pl Overseen by Marcin Jabłoński, one of the rising stars of Polish gastronomy, the menu is a celebratory observance of natural local produce.

Plato ul. Klimczaka 1 (Royal Wilanów), restauracjaplato.pl Created by the same team behind the Michelin-starred Senses restaurant, Plato has less of the formality and theater but plenty of thrills and talking points. Mediterraneaninspired, the menu has been curated by Michał Gniadek, a graduate of the Senses kitchen whose formative experiences also include a stint at the Michelin endorsed Galvin at Windows.

Saffron Spices ul. Klimczaka 20, saffronspices.pl Much appreciated by Wilanów’s British population, Saffron Spices is a reliable choice for the standard curries. Nothing complex here, but they do the basics well enough.

Sucre ul. Klimczaka 5, sucre.pl Purveyors of Warsaw’s best natural ice cream, Sucre is worth visiting in all temperatures on account of their Parisianstyle macarons. Danger: highly addictive.

neighborhood / wilanów Sushi Zume ul. Klimczaka 5, sushizume.eu Apparently this was the first restaurant to take root in Miasteczko Wilanów. Still going strong, that they’ve outlasted many of their competitors speaks volumes. Basic interior, simple menu but solidly reliable standards.

to local eco-produce.

Targ Wilanowski Pl. Miejski Held each Saturday (9 a.m. till 3 p.m.) in the heart of Miasteczko Wilanów, this upscale outdoor food market places an onus on free range farmers’ fare, regional produce and fresh fruit and veg.

Sklep Sarmackie ul. Sarmacka 10, sarmackiesmakolyki.pl An eco-conscious delicatessen with Polish and Armenian ready meals, organic fruit and veg, free range eggs and poultry, health-minded treats, gluten free ingredients and delicious homemade sausages. Insider recommends their homemade pierogi for the holidays.

Vilano ul. Kazachska 1, vilano.pl Find the busy open kitchen serving homemade pasta, Tuscan-style pizza, a respectable array of sea creatures and meat courtesy of Warsaw’s top butcher, Grzegorz Kwapniewski. No wonder it’s something a local cult.

W Kropki Bordo ul. Zaściankowa 96, wkropkibordo.pl Filling a binary role as a toyshop/bookstore, this jaunty cafe includes matted play areas, sofas and a whole flotilla of cakes and desserts made of natural produce.

Winalove ul. Kolegiacka 8, winalove.pl The menu is founded around pizza and the wine list appropriately slanted – but not limited to – Italy. Winalove also tout themselves as a gallery: expect plenty of pops of color from local artists

YeYe Mex Food & Music Bar ul. Klimczaka 1, yeye. testa.com.pl Mexican food hasn’t imported well to Poland, but the kitchen team here have changed that with a simple menu that makes it look easy. Some are calling it the best Mexican in the country and the margaritas are not too shabby either.

BEST MEX FOOD & COCKTAILS Live Music•Events•Delivery Service•Open Late Wilanów, Klimczaka 1, phone 728 456 883, yeye.waw.pl

delis The Beer Store Wilanów Al. Rzeczypospolitej 14 While many locals rightfully claim The Beer Store to the best bar in the district, it’s original function as a shop should not be forgotten either: there’s 400 beers to pore over, with the international range including a number of progressive breweries.

Delikatesy Gusto ul. Klimczaka 5/89 Craft beer, impressive wines and soft drinks from brands like Belvoir.

And to think, that’s just the drinks. Also on sale, western sugar highs (watermelon nerds!)

Al. Wilanowska 67e/ D1/3 tel. 602 720 077 www.agijensen.com

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restaurants KEY

NEW & NOTEWORTHY

$ zł. 30 (per main) $$ zł. 30-55 $$$ over zł. 55 New listings are in RED 2015 Best of Warsaw Award Winner BEST OF WARSAW 2015 KEY WINNERS Fine Dining Senses Casual Dining Bibenda Newcomer MOD Chef Sebastian Wełpa (Ale Wino) Modern Polish (Opasły Tom) Foreign Chef Martin Gimenez-Castro (Salto & Ceviche Bar)

SOBREMESA TAPAS BAR (ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki), sobremesatapas.com) While it’s early days yet, there’s one place in the rebooted Hala Koszyki complex that has really stood out. It’s true, there have been a few complaints about the service (specifically, the lack of), but pretty much everyone has been united in their praise for the tapas menu at Sobremesa. A spot of great intimacy and warmth, it’s little surprise that thus far this has been the most noteworthy debut in this bold culinary complex.

CURRY LEAVES (ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki), curryleaves.pl) As far as Indian food goes, Curry Leaves gets a very healthy approval rating: the Chicken 65 has enough red chillies to keep things interesting while the coconut naan is a must-try. But Curry Leaves is not without its problems, the principal ones being its location slap bang in the middle of the Hala Koszyki complex: as such, expect irritating elevator music on loop, plenty of pushy people full of self-importance and all the atmosphere of eating in a food court.

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african american balkan & russian british burgers & street food chinese cooking schools cuban fine dining french georgian greek & turkish hungarian indian international italian japanese & sushi jewish korean latin & spanish mexican middle eastern polish seafood steak houses thai

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listings / restaurants african Café Baobab (H4) ul. Francuska 31, tel. 22 617 4057, cafebaobab.pl The work of former basketball player Aziz Seck, Baobab brings the tastes of Senegal to Saska Kępa. The mafe yap – beef stewed in peanut sauce – is as interesting as it sounds, and best enjoyed during their bi-monthly Saturday night concerts. $

american Brooklyn Restaurant & Bar (C4) Al. Jana Pawła II 18 (Rondo ONZ), tel. 22 114 3434, brooklynbw.eu Gone are the fancy pants culinary creations once found in the basement, ousted in favor of a menu of pimped-up soul and street food, salads and steaks. This means fresh tacos not to mention the best-selling ‘Mito’s Beef Ribs’.

The ground floor burger bar is more prosaic, offering a standard line-up of burgers and wings. $$

Champions Sports Bar (D5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 630 5119, champions.pl While the concept and style look dated, there’s no faulting the attention to detail – with TVs positioned all over the place you won’t miss a kick. The heavy décor brings to mind the trans-Atlantic sports bars of the 90s, with glinting trophies, whirring machines, clacking pool tables and a cacophony of commentaries. Hell, there’s even a boxing ring. But you can’t criticize their consistency: the food is always on-point, the staff are pro, while the generous floor plan makes it suitable for unwieldy groups of large and loud lads. $$ Hard Rock Café (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, hardrockcafe.pl Instantly recognizable by the giant neon guitar outside, Hard Rock has a pierced staff of skater boys and rock girls and a menu that is, if nothing else, completely reliable. Peruse rock’n’roll swag that includes Joplin’s blouse, Prince’s guitar and Shakira’s pants. $$

Someplace Else (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6710, someplace-else.pl Favoring a stark concrete look, SPE were once a legend of 90s/00s Warsaw. Things have tamed down since that ex-pat heyday, but this remains a noteworthy choice for live concerts and zippy Tex Mex food. $$

balkan Banja Luka (E8) ul. Szkolna 2/4, tel. 22 828 1060, banjaluka. pl Lots of clunky timber and imported ceramics set the scene at this eatery, a Balkan stalwart that’s known for its economical pricing structure and bulky portions. Grilled meats are prominent and the food largely reliable. $$ Yugo (B4) ul. Sienna 83 (enter from Żelazna), tel. 694 109 379 You feel alive just being here: big on Colgate white colors, vintage tourist agency

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listings / restaurants posters and bright stickers, Yugo is just about the cheeriest eatery you’ll come across on a dour Warsaw day. Presenting the food of the former Yugoslavia, this Balkan bolt hole specializes in meaty dishes served in traditional bread. $

british Created by Jarosław Voitiuk, our menu is influenced by seasonal produce and it is mostly based on fresh fish and seafood delivered daily from Spain. Find a classic cuisine with a modern twist and a beautiful game of colours and form matched with award-winning wines and unique cocktails

Ę Rybę (E4) Al. Jana Pawła II 18, erybe.pl Warsaw’s has done fish and chips before, yet nowhere has managed to capture the unique taste of the British seaside as convincingly as this place.

Forget the grey and greasy offerings the city has previously volunteered, here’s a spot where the chips are golden, the fish fresh and the batter crisp and light. Doused with malt vinegar, and a couple of dollops of tartar sauce, here’s food that cuddles and comforts those Brits who miss home. $$ Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640, legendsbar.pl It’s a British pub first and foremost, but massive steps have been taken to ensure that the food angle isn’t overlooked. The all-day breakfast is a great way to stoke up your drinking powers, while other dishes of note inc. pies, sausages and mash and, of course, fish and chips. $$ Pik’s Fish & Chips ul. Grójecka 17B You wait years for a fish and chip shop and then two come along at once. But most of the Brits are converging on E Rybę in the center, and there’s a reason for that: entered into a head-to-head and there’s one clear winner. It’s not Pik. Comparisons to E Rybę are both inevitable and unfavorable: smaller portions and tastes that are just not quite there. $

burgers & street food

ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 516 995 690, www.zmianaklimatu.pl

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Barn Burger (D4) ul. Złota 9. tel. 512 157 567, barnburger.pl Retaining a loyal crowd ever since their 2012 entry on the burger circuit, Barn Burger offer a loud and lively atmosphere and much celebrated burgers with goofy names like Heart Attack and Muppet. The list by the door notes the results of their American-style eating competitions / greed-fests. $

Beef’N’Roll (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel. 531 707 070, beefnroll.pl If the wheels have fallen off the burger craze then no-one told Beef’N’Roll.

Originating as a food truck, their success has been such that a fixed venue was required.

Everything about the food and drink suggests quality is the main consideration. $ Bez Ości (D5) ul. Hoża 51, bezosci.com Those lamenting the loss of Warsaw’s first artisan sandwich stop – MeatLove – have been given hope by the opening of a new venture across the street. Specializing in fish-based sarnies and baguettes, the choice includes deboned catches fresh from a stint in the smokehouse served in bread baked in traditional brick ovens. The cod with horseradish choice is a particular bestseller. Find it occupying a tiny, converted space inside a former vodka distillery. $ Burger Bar ul. Puławska 974/80 (enter from Olkuska) & ul. Krucza 41/43, burgerbar.waw.pl Warsaw’s first legitimate burger spot was the talk of the town when it first opened up in 2012, only to have its thunder stolen when 100 copycats opened in their trail. But this lot have kept plugging away, sticking to their guns with little song and dance.

Intimate and unassuming, it’s for good reason they’ve retained a loyal core of fans – if the words masterpiece can be applied to a burger, then their green chili burger is just that. $ Okienko (D7) ul. Polna 22 Belgian-style frites served in paper cones right from out of a street-side hatch. Yes they’re good, but they’re bettered by the sauces that are written up in marker pen on the wall tiles. With money exchanged, do your eating on the upturned crates left on the side of the curb. $ Pogromcy Meatów (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, tel. 505 703 508 Yearn no more for the elusive flavor of the backyard BBQ. Specializing in grilled meat, find exactly just that loaded into artisan buns alongside locally grown greens. The sense of homespun quality makes this the kind of comfort food that Warsaw has been missing for years. $ SAS Duck & Chicken (D5) ul. Piękna 54, fb.com/sasduckandchicken

listings / restaurants Although SAS Duck & Chicken feels reminiscent of the ‘hipster pop-up’ we first saw three or four years back, they’ve taken a tried and tested format and hit refresh. A small and simple space it might be, but this kitchen crew have won hearts and minds with an understandable menu that presents comfort food at its glorious best: BBQ hot wings, duck confit burgers, chicken skewers and turkey in a big, buttery brioche. These are simple

pleasures refined for a picky palette. $ Warburger (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1, warburger.pl While Warsaw has lost its appetite for burgers, you wouldn’t necessarily tell by popping in WarBurger. Set inside a diminutive cabin, join the scrum for jazzed-up burgers that use slow-food ingredients. If not the best, they’re most certainly up there. $

Ziggi Point (B4) ul. Pańska 59, tel. 696 145 735 Diners are summoned to the counter to collect their order via a buzzer, before settling down to enjoy what has emerged as a real candidate for Warsaw’s best burger. The fiery Desperados is as perfect as a burger gets, and best twinned with a Curiosity Cola from the Fentimans brand. Steaks and wings also available inside a cool diner setup. $

chinese Cesarski Pałac (D2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 9707, cesarskipalac.com A rouge tinted Chinese restaurant whose design even incorporates a footbridge. Widely acclaimed, this 18-year-old restaurant combines Sichuan and Cantonese cuisine to serve a variety of dishes in an elegant backdrop. The Dim Sum are something else. $$ Pełną Parą (B4) ul. Sienna 76, pelnapara.pl The Thai soup with lemongrass and chicken is fragrant, deep and nourishing, but it’s the Chinese dim sum they’re famous for mind, with eight variations thereof. Find yourself knocked sideways by these beautiful pouches of meaty goodness: the duck, orange and Sichuan pepper is a particular favorite. Impossible to get tired of, these are of a standard that bring to mind London’s Chinatown. $

A PLACE IN WHICH WINE PLAYS THE FIRST CHORD IN HARMONY WITH WHAT APPEARS ON THE PLATE…

Pełną Parą na Nowo (D6) ul. Nowowiejska 10, pelnapara.pl A good gauge of Pełną Parą’s swoon-worthy offerings is the Dim Sum Mix: find a duo of Chinese dumplings (pork/shitake & bamboo/shrimp) plus a spicy kimchi-style cucumber salad topped off with some fried wontons and spring rolls. Appetites, however, may suffer if you sit too close to the manager, a person who sees nothing wrong with barking orders at the staff in the manner of a bulldog. $

cooking schools WE WELCOME YOU

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Akademia Kulinarna Whirlpool ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), akademiakulinarnawhirlpool.pl Run by two Italians, find a gleaming kitchen inside a vast warehouse space inside Soho Factory. Mediterranean workshops are the primary foundation, though wine tasting and Polish cooking courses are also available.

listings / restaurants Cook Up Studio ul. Racławicka 99 (Fort Mokotów), tel. 22 212 89 76, cookup.pl Workshops in a gorgeous cooking studio located in a redbrick fortress.

Past themes have included Swedish cooking (led by the Swedish Embassy chef), knife skills and soup, with lessons culminating in eating all that hard work.

Scheller Academy ul. Międzynarodowa 68, tel. 22 626 80 92, schelleracademy.pl Instantly recognizable by his beret and whiskers, Swiss-born Kurt Scheller invites guests to his Saska Kępa kitchen for lessons aimed at all skill levels.

cuban El Caribe ul. Mickiewicza 9, tel. 22 400 0994, el-caribe.pl Start with a round of daiquiris before ordering frijoles negroes (black beans). But everyone agrees, it’s the flan that gets you doing the cha cha. With the cooking

left to a Cuban exile, this bubbly spot is worth the trip north to Żoliborz. $$

fine dining Amber Room at the Sobański Palace (E6) Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, amberroom.pl The Amber Room is, indeed, a bit of a treasure. You know all the chefs we bang on about in this mag? Bottom line, the good ones came through via this kitchen.

But this is more than a training ground for future stars, it’s a place that remains on the cutting edge in spite of its seemingly straight look. Positioned inside a majestic villa, the food is pure contemporary Poland, and well deserving of its Michelin nod. For that, thank chef Robert Skubisz. $$$ Atelier Amaro (E6) ul. Agrykola 1, tel. 22 628 5747, atelieramaro.pl The recipient of Poland’s first Michelin star, Atelier promotes pedigree Polish produce enhanced by modern

techniques, with courses interspersed by occasionally bizarre interludes (leaves, flowers, twigs, etc). It’s an extraordinary dining experience, and one which confirms the growing cult of Wojciech Amaro. In the hours you’re here the world stops and you leave feeling like James Bond. Reservations are mandatory, but this is a restaurant that tops the foodie bucket list. $$$ La Rotisserie (C1) ul. Kościelna 12 (Le Régina Hotel), tel.

22 531 6070, leregina.com It began with duck foie gras and finished with a caramel Valrhona chocolate parfait. In between came a scallop salad with plums, almonds and tarragon tempura; a grilled tuna; and a seared Barbary duck with blackberry ginger sauce and the kind of parsnips you never knew existed. The Insider’s visit at the end of 2016 was nothing if not a reassertion of chef Paweł Oszczyk’s ample skill. Enjoy one of Warsaw’s top dining experiences inside a gloriously seductive dining room that’s been recently updated. $$$

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listings / restaurants L’enfant Terrible (D8) ul. Sandomierska 13 (enter from Rejtana), tel. 22 119 5705, eterrible.pl Chef Michal Brys might look like he’s just swaggered in from a rock concert, but his flair for experimentation is second to none: expect a menu that marries local produce with the latest tricks and techniques. The tasting menu (six courses for zł. 219) is a brilliant insight into the mind of a chef who likes to push boundaries and get playful with ingredients.

With all the hype you expect this place to be a little up its arse, but it’s anything but.

Again, credit for that goes to Brys and his front-of-house staff. $$$ N31 (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 31, n31restaurant.pl One of the original pioneers of modern Polish cooking returns with renewed vigor. That’s Robert Sowa, and his N31 restaurant has already made a massive splash with an upmarket, showbizzy crowd enjoying complex cooking amid a luxurious interior of pristine linen and glinting tableware. $$$

Nolita (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 292 0424, nolita. pl The deluxe dining scene is filling out in Warsaw, and there’s now a few restaurants that can present an equitable claim for the No. 1 spot. However, it’s Nolita that perch at the top, with a menu

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that sees largely classical recipes through a sharp, modern prism – chef Jacek Grochowina has created a place that’s coherent and understandable without sacrificing values of innovation. Looking chic and high end, the tastes and sensations in this restaurant are thrilling: diners are left speechless by the tuna tartar, while the aged beef fillet is an Insider mainstay. $$$

ceviche with Portuguese corvina; a dainty tranche of cavala mackerel; and Porcini ice cream served in the shape of a mushroom.

It’s a brilliant demonstration of the chef’s passion and personality, but most of all, it’s BEST WAWA just bloody brilliant. $$$ 2015 “Foreign Chef”

Platter by Karol Okrasa (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (Hotel InterContinental Warsaw), warsaw.intercontinental.com It’s a fact that Okrasa’s appearances in the kitchen are fleeting and rare, but that’s done nothing to hurt this restaurant’s prestige. Head chef Łukasz Pielak has proved to be a lethal assassin, executing the ideas of his mentor with accuracy and passion. The cooking is detailed, balanced and elegant, with the highlight of our visit being deer in plum sauce. A thing of imperial, velvety richness it’s a dish that turns up the volume on a memorable experience. $$$

Senses (C2) ul. Bielańska 12, tel. 22 331 9697, sensesrestaurant.pl A spectacular experience from start to finish: begin by walking through a flame-lit tunnel, and then conclude the night with an edible cigar: a grand tobacco flavored pastry infused with whisky and cinnamon. In between our night includes beetroot bread with a teat pipette of apple essence; a beef rib that’s a big blast of smoke and crunch; and a shellfish goulash that’s rich and rough and rolling in flavor. Perfectly paced, expertly portioned and bristling with invention, their newly acquired Michelin star makes bookings BEST WAWA 2015 recommended. $$$ “Fine Dining”

Salto (D5) ul. Wilcza 73 (enter from Emilii Plater), tel. 22 584 8771, saltorestauracja.pl For those who think Argentine chef Martin Gimenez-Castro is just about steak, then they haven’t been to Salto. The tasting menu is the best way to view his full oeuvre, and on our visit included

Signature (D5) ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 55 38755, signaturerestaurant.pl You feel a millionaire just being here: we’ve heard the interiors described as a ‘Monegasque state of mind’, and that’s not a bad way to surmise a décor that’s all about friezes and reliefs dated from the time this was the Soviet Embassy, lavish 1950s Oswald chairs, lighting by Serge Mouille and original Marilyn photos shot by the acclaimed Milton Greene. Food-wise the

listings / restaurants restaurant makes a massive splash with a menu that’s clever, creative and pretty. Count on Signature’s seasonally changing desserts providing a happy ending. $$ Tamka 43 (E3) ul. Tamka 43, tel. 22 441 6234, tamka.43.pl Ground floor: upmarket cafe serving Chopin fans. Upstairs: a fine dining restaurant in which the seasonal menu sets the natural flavors of Poland against the culinary know-how of tomorrow. It’s easy to drop serious money here, but you’ll still feel it’s worthwhile. $$$

french ArtBistro Stalowa ul. Stalowa 52, tel. 22 618 2732 Part of an ‘art hotel’, the distant Stalowa features a narrow dining chamber with vaulted walls, fresh flowers and white formica fittings.

It looks good, but on a brighter day the courtyard, strewn with deckchairs and crates, is the place to be. The food is erratic but there is potential: if the other courses were a disappointment then the main was a thing of excellence – duck with a carefully crisped skin, a perfect hint of fat, expertly browned potatoes and a well-executed orange and caramel sauce. $$ Bistro la Cocotte (D6) ul. Mokotowska 12, tel. 664 906 000 With access through a shadowy courtyard, the sensation you’re stepping inside a little secret is a pleasure in itself. Presenting itself in a riot of red and white gingham Cocotte feels warm and intimate, a factor aided by a small open kitchen and the atmosphere of home. The menu, chalked up on the blackboard, is a flexible affair that makes use of the ingredients at hand, and is divided into a smattering of light bites, desserts and plat du jour.

La Cocotte Saska (H4) ul. Walecznych 68A Already well regarded on account of a highly successful venture just off Pl. Zbawiciela, La Cocotte have spread their wings to set up shop in scenic Saska. A typical French-style bistro / wine bar, the offer includes a brief but largely brilliant menu whose main strength is its mussels. The wine list is substantial and French-focused and enjoyed by a smart, upmarket audience. $$ No Comment (F4) Al. 3 Maja 16/18A, fb.com/nocommentwarszawa Set inside one of those momentous towers that support Most Poniatowskiego, you don’t feel like you’re in a restaurant, you’ll feel like you’re in a film – something weird by Aronofsky or Lynch.

Seating is small and tight, set around glasstopped tables that favor form over function.

But there’s a reasoning behind this which soon becomes apparent. No Comment is all about intimacy, about bending over platters for surreptitious slurps of New Zealand oysters. It’s about decadence, about clinking glasses and toasting the moment. Most of all, it’s about authentic French style. $$

georgian Chinkali (D4) ul. Zgoda 3 Signposted by a Georgianlanguage shingle, there’s a real sense of pleasure about this place. More modern than your typical folksy ethnic outpost, Chinkali’s

draw is indeed its chinkali: dough purses packed with meaty broth. There’s a genuine homemade quality to these slurpy bundles of joy, meaning that while they’re authentic, consistency can vary. And don’t miss out on the red bean chachapuri washed down with a mouthwash-colored tarragon lemonade. $ Klukovka (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 45A, klukovka.pl Jana Pawła’s pavilions are the unlikely location of this culinary beacon: amid the aggressive waft of its kebab shop neighbors, Klukova presents itself as a warming winter mouse hole filled with banter, babble and rich aromas. Specializing in the foods of ‘the east’, this means a menu inspired by the tastes of Georgia, Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan, and more. The mutton manty dumplings are great, and best appreciated with a bottle of unfiltered Lithuanian beer. That said, it’s never a surprise to find diners ordering up bottles of Georgian vodka before proceeding to share their way through the menu. $ Rusiko (E5) Al. Ujazdowskie 22, tel. 22 629 0628, rusiko. pl Vodka shots at the ready! Rusiko finished 2015 voted Gazeta Wyborcza’s Knajpa Roku, a very public endorsement of all that they’ve done right. The food is the equivalent of a warm cuddle on a cold day – it makes you feel good in the heart and soul – and when it comes to hospitality they’re in a league of their own. Live music lends the weekends a good-humored twist. Note: closed Monday. $$

L’Arc (E8) ul. Puławska 16, tel. 519 000 050, larc.pl Looking elegant with its black/white floors and subtle decorations bills at L’Arc can become big number affairs – especially if you hanker for seafood. No-one complains, however. Pick from numerous types of oysters, or delve into the fish tank for the lobster of your choosing. The catchment area extends beyond the borders of Mokotów, not just because of their ‘fresh from France’ seafood, but because of classic dishes such as Mulard duck and Burgundy snails. $$

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listings / restaurants greek & turkish Bar Turecki “Efes” (H4) ul. Francuska 1, ul. Aleje Niepodleglości 80, tel. 22 898 3001 So it’s best known as a kebab shop, but when the kebabs are this good they’re well worth the listing. Either join the queue outside, or head indoors to sample the smattering of Turkish grill food and salads. $ iGrek (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 28 (enter from Pl. Przymierza), tel 22 114 00 06, i-grek.pl Modernizing the whole concept of how Greek restaurants look and feel, iGrek have also made this cuisine extremely accessible: if you’re on the move, choose from a number of readymade cold dishes. One source of pride is their stock of olive oils imported from Crete. $ Kumpir House (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 59, tel. 723 101 111 Ensconced inside an inviting, raw brick room Kumpir’s warming aura has as much to do with its food and drink as it does its design. Sip fragrant Turkish coffee while picking through loaded jacket potatoes that bring to mind the street stalls of Istanbul. $$ Paros (D4) ul. Jasna 14/16, tel. 22 828 1067, paros-restauracja.pl Out of all of Warsaw’s Greek contributions Paros dazzles most with a glitzy look that’s a complete U-turn from

the typical taverna look. Owned by the same team behind El Greco, the menu is identical, though a recent visit revealed a kitchen resting on its laurels – not one plate on our table was finished. $$ Santorini ul. Egipska 7, tel. 22 672 0525, kregliccy.pl/ santorini/ Santorini looks scuffed and tired but there’s a bonhomie present that instantly engages. The kitchen attaches no value to things like presentation, preferring instead to simply treat diners to piles of grilled and skewered food that consistently tastes right – and the milfei dessert is magic. $$ Sofra (C6) ul. Wilcza 71, tel. 731 847 731 A highly respected Turkish eatery with a wondrous beef mussaka and a wholly admirable lineup of other ethnic dishes: the lamb shashlik has never failed us. Pleasingly informal, this neighborhood redoubt feels cheerfully unforced, and it becomes an easy place to hang around in. $ Taverna Patris (G4) ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 407, tel 22 357 11 11, tawernapatris.pl This Greek restaurant is not about sophistication and finesse, it’s about truth and taste. Likewise, the interiors have no airs and graces: there’s a rough and ready style that’s apt for noisy celebrations and familial occasions. Tawerna Patris is not about shallow details or surface appearances. Instead, it’s a place of depth, a place

Loft is the perfect place to pause for a moment for a coffee, to meet with friends for lunch or a late dinner – most of all, it’s a chance to escape the city bustle while remaining in the heart of Warsaw. ul. Złota 11 tel. 668 016 964 restauracjaloft.pl

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of integrity, a place of joy. $$

hungarian U Madziara (B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 620 1423, umadziara.pl U Madziara looks like it took two days to decorate. No-one goes here to marvel at the interiors though, they go in the knowledge that they’ll find great food at prices all bank cards can support. Chef Gabor’s signature goulash is one of life’s simple pleasures, though the service can come across as distracted and inattentive. $

indian Bollywood Lounge (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, tel. 22 827 0283, bollywoodlounge.pl Known for their raucous dusk-till-dawn parties, there is another less hedonistic roll filled by Bollywood: that of a restaurant. The menu is an uncomplicated, classic affair that’s an ideal primer for the party ahead. $$ Bombaj Masala (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 606 688 777, bombajmasala.pl One of the best looking Indian restaurants in Warsaw, but the food rarely pokes above average. For a cuisine that prides itself on rich, intense tastes, Bombaj gets remembered for bland, oily dishes that only sometimes get finished. Yet

listings / restaurants business remains brisk, thanks in part to a combination of location and general culinary ignorance. $$ Chmielarnia (B4) ul. Twarda 42 (basement level), tel. 725 010 271, chmielarnia.waw.pl Find some of the world’s greatest beers (see Nightlife) served in a murky, muggy basement. The Indian food that accompanies it is generally successful without being memorable – the beer snack menu though is great, with big points going to the spicy, chili ribs. Now also boasts a more salubrious location on Marszałkowska 10/16. $ Curry House ul. Żeromskiego 81 & ul. Hoża 54, curry-house.pl It’s not been a distinguished year for the Indian scene, with a few old favorites slackening and newcomers failing to make a mark. But hail Curry House for their continued, ceaseless brilliance. That includes the hottest vindaloo for hundreds of miles! Evolving from a glorified hut out in far-flung Bielany (which is still going strong), they’ve recently upgraded and opened a new venue bang in the city center. $$ House of Curry ul. Patriotów 11 A, house-of-curry.pl Heat seekers can ‘enjoy’ a genuine death-by-fire experience at House of Curry, though far milder curries are available for more sensitive palettes – either way, the experience is fantastic, and good news for those stuck out in the depths of Józefów. $$ Karma (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 501 400 386, restauracjakarma.pl Fresh, contemporary interiors impart a chic, classy look that’s leagues ahead of Warsaw’s other Indian restaurants. The food is largely impressive, with fresh ingredients and an expansive menu, though it does lack the extra punch you maybe looking for. If there’s a complaint, then it’s thus: a little timid for more robust tastes, a few extra spices in the pot wouldn’t go amiss. $$ Mandala ul. Emilii Plater 9/11 & ul. Etiudy Rewolucyjnej 9, tel. 22 428 44 54, mandalaklub. com or indiaexpress.pl Celebrating their 10th birthday this year, Mandala is well on its way to becoming a Warsaw institution. But rather than resting on their laurels, the management are using this landmark anniversary as

an opportunity to rejig the menu and update their offer. Using the freshest ingredients, Mandala is characterized by its blitzing big spices and a vindaloo capable of giving the sweat glands a work out. For something calmer, the creamy mutton methi malai is a masterpiece. $$ Mr. India Al. KEN 47, tel. 22 213 0689, mrindia.pl Split on two levels the design is contemporary if a little characterless: leather banquettes that leave a sweaty bum print and wood paneling.

No problem though, if it looks bland then the food isn’t. That means an incredible butter chicken that’s deep and immensely satisfying. Then there’s the vindaloo, an experience that leaves some close to spontaneous combustion. Undoubtedly one of the best regarded Indian restaurants in this town. $$ Namaste India (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 15, tel. 22 357 0939, namasteindia.pl Responsible for first bringing quality, budget Indian food to Warsaw, Namaste have grown from humble beginnings (three tables and cooking done in a cupboard-sized space behind a curtain) to evolve into a bona fide two-floored restaurant. Consistency, however, has become a problem. Whilst we rated a recent butter chicken as the best we’ve had for years, another Insider blasts the Madras as being, ‘the worst curry ever served!’ Good luck. $$ Om (B4) ul. Sienna 86, omrestauracja.pl Indian restaurants are popping up like toast, which isn’t a problem for most ex-pats. Catering to the more budget end of the market, Om’s Nepalese chefs know their way around the kitchen. The chicken tikka masala is satisfying if nothing memorable, but the madras is something else: filled with sharp, punchy tastes that leave a lasting impression. While you get the idea it’ll never challenge the more established Indian restaurants in Warsaw, it’s the kind of place you’d be very happy to live next door to. $ Rani Al. KEN 48/10, tel. 729 247 400, rani. com.pl Mere steps from Metro Natolin, this restaurant’s catchment area goes beyond just Ursynów. Owner Samir is a self-confessed foodie, and his vision includes a contemporary Indian menu that features pan-seared cod with turmeric, tomato salsa and mint chutney – wonderful. Rani will also please

Finest Authentic Indian Cuisine in Locations Around Warsaw

WWW.HOUSE-OF-CURRY.PL

PATRIOTÓW 11A, FALENICA 512 533 415

WWW.CURRY-HOUSE.PL

HOŻA 54

536 443 771

ŻEROMSKIEGO 81 508 870 774

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listings / restaurants the traditionalists, with everything from creamy kormas to vindaloo’s that leave your ears blowing smoke rings. $$ Tandoor (D7) ul. Marszałkowska 21/25, tel. 22825 2375, tandoor.com.pl After nearly 20 years at the helm, owner Charanjit Walia has sold up and moved on, leaving a spiritual hole in his life-defining work. His parting shot has been a re-haul which has seen the interior modernized and brightened. Has the food suffered? Not a jot. The chicken tikka butter masala is as formidable as ever. It’s no longer the self-styled, ‘the best Indian restaurant in Poland’, but it’s deservedly retained a loyal core of customers. $$

international Aioli Inspired by Mini (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 5, aioliinspiredbymini.pl Such is the success of this venue, there are moments when the scrum at the bar threatens to spill into blood sport. The huge neo-industrial interior packs out with a young, lively demographic sinking ‘tank’ beer and powerful cocktails over a menu that chiefly encompasses pizza and burgers. $$ Aioli (D3) ul. Świętokrzyska 18, tel. 22 290 102, aioli-cantine.com This runaway hit has taken Warsaw by storm. It’s a jaunty space with hams hanging from hooks and long

communal tables that thrive with life. Aioli’s breakfasts, sandwiches, pastas and pizzas are a lesson in clean, simple pleasure: nothing out of the world, just consistently good. This and the liberal prices mean there’s no shortage of people passing in and out the doors. $$ Ale Wino (F5) ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 628 3830, alewino.pl Dip through an archway to discover Ale Wino, a beautiful wine bar whose menu has been well tailored to the season.

Tweaked for the season is the pork belly, a Złotnicka pig adorned with apple sugar snap peas and celery mousse – gorgeous. As for the wine, put your faith in the sommelier, BEST WAWA 2015 “Chef” Oliver.

Bazar Kocha (D6) ul. Mokotowska 33, bazarkocha.pl Designed to evoke the spirit of a farmers’ market, the woodsy interior is filled with stall-style units neatly stacked with jars and pots. Yet these are not decorative decoys, but part of a thoughtful grocery offer aimed at showcasing Kocha’s own-made produce. Above all though, this is a restaurant whose menu is strongly influenced by concepts of ‘terroir’.

The giant leg of lamb falls off the bone and is a dish to recommend and remember for several months to come. $$ Bez Tytułu (D5) ul. Poznańska 16, beztytulu.com Classy yet discreet, the interiors set art and photogra-

PRESENTING THE MOST BEAUTIFUL RESTAURANT IN POLAND

Al. Ujazdowskie 24, tel. 22 629 2312, www.podgigantami.pl

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phy against rehabilitated brickwork while pendant bulbs cast a soft light downwards.

The classic cooking has French and Polish accents and has so far won glowing reviews.

That’s specifically true of the mains: high caliber offerings such as beef fillet (zł.

68) with a sensual shallot sauce, mashed potatoes and crunchy onion crisps. Largely perfect, it’s a dish that feels completely right for the season. $$ Bibenda (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 10, tel. 502 770 303, bibenda.pl With its weathered brickwork and a long wavy bar occupying a significant chunk of the entrance, you don’t get much more casual than Bibenda. ‘True food’, their menu calls it, before expanding to rattle on about ‘fresh, seasonal ingredients and home-style techniques’. On our visit that involved a potato salad with red onion and parsley: basic stuff, but delicious when mushed together; next, soft duck thigh placed on top of a tangy red cabbage reduction and served with charred parsnips; and dessert, a pink beetroot cake that was gobbled in seconds. $$ BEST WAWA 2015 “Casual Dining” Brasserie Warszawska (E5) ul. Górnośląska 24, tel. 22 628 9423, brasseriewarszawska.pl Looking for classic cuisine with no daft flights of fancy? Here you have it.

At a time when everyone wants to be Ferran Adrià, Brasserie has both a menu and interior that you can understand: pan-fried foie gras; elegant beef Rossini; and sinful apple

listings / restaurants tarte tatin, all served inside posh interiors of zinc-plated mirrors and chessboard floors.

Their Michelin Bib Gourmand is a source of pride, but it’s the number of repeat clients that are the ultimate paean to the skills of chef Mateusz Wichrowski. $$$

considerable skills of Dariusz Barański. That he manages to create different pieces of art each and every afternoon is a testament to his talent – fellow chefs and foodies privately talk of him as a Michelin star in the making.

Bubbles (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 512 540 913, bubbles.com.pl Occupying a small, square room, it’s intimate and relaxed: a place busy with blackboards and bottles, crates and clutter. It radiates warmth and honesty. The food is exquisite, and includes big, meaty snails farmed in Mazury, and their signature dish: Swiss-style raclette. Presented on a wooden chopping board, this cheese dish is classic melty goodness, and served alongside a pile of potatoes, onions marinated with caramel and candied pumpkin. Considering the place doubles as a champagne bar the prices are remarkably moderate. $$

The Cool Cat (F4) ul. Solec 38, tel. 787 698 700 Our visit featured a musical standoff between two waiters arguing over possession of the laptop, and a genuine piece of plate art that was as delicious as it looked: beautiful deer surrounded by creative ingredients. Small menu

$$$

and a fashionable crowd, but an immensely enjoyable place that adds further oomph to Powiśle. $$ Dekant Wine Bar (F5) ul. Zajęcza 15, dekant.com.pl Not just a contender for Warsaw’s best new wine bar, but also Warsaw’s best new restaurant! The tuna tartar comes with the added ka-boom of a nose clearing wasabi, while the filet mignon (a snip at zł. 79) is simply astonishing. The surprise are the ash-cooked potatoes, beautiful things with a char that wows. The desserts are few in number but

Bułkę przez Bibułkę ul. Zgoda 3 & ul. Puławska 24, bulkeprzezbibulke.pl When Bułkę przez Bibułkę was opened the idea was simple – to create a boutique version of Subway: a high quality sandwich shop people would value. But after they started serving breakfast, the whole thing snowballed into a more bistro-style offer. Now there’s a second venue on Zgoda, it’s not just the quality that’s contributed to the success, but the atmosphere as well. $$ Casablanca Biały Kamień ul. Żaryna 2B, casablancawaw.com.pl From the same team behind Na Lato comes Casablanca, a versatile venue that muddies the lines between café, restaurant, wine bar and hangout. Equally comfortable in each of these roles, it’s a place that feels fresh and cosmopolitan, not to mention completely in tune with the swank, glass surrounds. More to the point, it’s given wings to a part of Mokotów that before felt quite sterile. $$ Concept 13 (D4) ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7373, likusrestauracje.pl You’d expect a rooftop meal at Poland’s ultimate luxury department store to cost the earth, but that’s not the case. The zł.

50 lunch deal allows Joe Public to enjoy the

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listings / restaurants Original Indian Cuisine

equally outstanding: we fell in love with a passion fruit semi-freddo with strawberries marinated in Grand Marnier. $$ Der Elefant (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, tel. 22 890 0010, derelefant. com This leviathan restaurant unravels in a maze of wrought iron and monochrome tiles – beautiful to look at (it was created by Oscar winning set designer Allan Starski), it’s caused a stir for more than just this alone.

Where once the menu looked like it was devised by throwing darts at a cookbook, the focus has now been narrowed. While some of the dishes are strictly middling, the filet mignon (zł. 69) is one of the best meat deals in town in terms of quality / price / consistency. $$ Dom ul. Mierosławskiego 12, tel. 509 165 712 Here’s the very epitome of casual dining: set on the ground floor of a suburban house, the warm corners and garden views give Dom a real sense of homey charm. In line with all that is a menu that celebrates simple, honest cooking. Everyone who visits ends up loving the place. $$ Dyletanci (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44A, dyletanci.pl Filled with crisp, modern citizens that radiate confidence, Dyletanci introduces itself as a bistro set with green banquettes and Tom Dixon lamps.

The wine selection is among the best in the nation, while the cooking has been left to Rafał Hreczaniuk, a workaholic chef with outrageous talent. His zander fillet thrills with every bite. $$ Grand Kredens (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 111, tel. 22 629 8008, kredens.com.pl This mighty veteran continues to draw a steady custom on account of a wide-reaching menu that aims to keep everyone happy – and it usually does. The design is surreal to say the least, and is laid out in such a way as to always guarantee a lively atmosphere. $$

club

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Hala Koszyki (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63, koszyki.com Finally open after years of disruption and destruction, the launch of this food hall was the big story of Autumn 2016. Integrating old with new, this huge project brings together some 18 food outlets inside a busy interior that’s all iron girders and industrial lighting. While there’s a feeling that there should have been a bigger

focus on artisan, independent traders, that’s done nothing to dent Koszyki’s astonishing popularity. Units of note include the Gringo Salsownia, Port Royal Fish & Oyster Bar, and the Sobremesa Tapas Bar. $$ Joseph’s Bistro & Wine (B1) ul. Inflancka 4, josephs.pl Spacious and smooth on the eye, Joseph’s has the feel of a place where good things happen: and indeed they do. For starters there’s a visually enticing tuna tartar, not to mention gherkin with rhubarb and cheese. It’s frankly remarkable with all sorts of tastes popping out thanks to a marinade that involves passionfruit, chili, vinegar and maple syrup. As a main, don’t miss the duck breast: a simple thing of beauty that’s given extra vigor with a star anise demi-glace. $$ Bistro Kaskrut (D5) ul. Poznańska 5, fb.com/bistrokaskrut Innovative as ever, a summer rebrand has seen Lili Filipiak (of Top Chef fame) installed as the driving force in the kitchen, the introduction of natural wines and a new focus on gastro excellence. Maintaining a hip, buzzy feel, look on Kaskrut’s evolution as a progressive sign of their growing maturity. At zł. 99, the 4-course tasting menu is remarkable value. $$ La Brasserie Modern (D3) ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8332, sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com The interior of Didier Gomez whispers intimacy, yet it also embraces notions of space and light.

The casual elegance that emanates from the design is accented by warm colors, low banquettes and glinting mirrors. Acting as a ballast to it all is an open kitchen, in which you’ll find Executive Chef Maciej Majewski honing his art. His is a menu that fits seamlessly with the surrounds: a fresh, modern look at French cuisine, but one that values clarity and simplicity. $$

Loft (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 668 016 964, restauracjaloft.pl Color, that’s what Loft has. It’s everywhere – from the design, which is all bubble shaped lights and splashy, bright cushions, to the drinks: extravagant cocktails that possibly glow in the dark.

The menu is full of playful experimentation, something reflected by a seasonal menu that

listings / restaurants has, in the past, presented such choices as chicken with strawberries. $$ Manoush (D4) ul. Jasna 10, manoush.pl It’s rare to see Beef Wellington on a Warsaw menu, and even rarer to find it executed well. But that’s exactly what Manoush manage to do, presenting prime, pink beef wrapped in a flaky, puff pastry. The rest of the international, bistro-style menu is equally fulfilling, and includes a wondrous halibut. There’s no revolution going on at Manoush, but you sense it’s a place that knows exactly what it’s doing, and is doing it well. $$ Między Ustami (E5) ul. Mokotowska 33/35, tel. 530 323 325 The design joins elements of classic Prague bordello against a London Soho bar, while the international menu features a decent steak nicely enhanced by a silky drizzle of demi-glace. With the food out of the way, stick around for some of the better cocktails found in this city. $$

MOD (D6) ul. Oleandrów 8, fb.com/MODOleandrow8 Chef Trisno’s menu sets his French culinary training against his Singaporean upbringing.

The outcome is a card (actually, a printed sheet of paper) that makes for dangerously enjoyable reading: duck hearts with beetroot / soy emulsion and braised red cabbage; duck confit with pok choy, soy / red wine sauce and spicy cranberry chutney. Moderate prices and funky décor (a retro mirrored wall, upside down plants hanging from the ceiling) give it an ad hoc edge and plenty of character. Note: by day its Warsaw’s top donut store, so visit at night for their proper menu. $$ BEST WAWA 2015 “Newcomer” Mokotowska 69 (E5) ul. Mokotowska 69, mokotowska69.com Set inside a rotunda at the tail end of the street, it’s a place that exudes elegance and class.

Most of all, however, it’s a restaurant to be enjoyed. Brought to you by the same team credited for Merliniego 5, Mokotowska’s appreciation of steak has been lifted from

their elder sister. Yet the virtues of this restaurant extend beyond steak alone: the Insider enjoyed a volley of greats – creamy breaded calf brains, sophisticated smoked eel, and Mazurian crayfish served in a deep, joyous sauce of rowan berry and brandy. $$ Momu.Gastrobar (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 11, tel. 506 100 001, momu. pl Back open after a revamp and a rethink, the biggest talking point has been the star addition of a wood smoker imported from the States. Allegedly the only one of its kind in Poland, the menu has been adjusted accordingly to play to this strength – with this in mind, the ribs are a must-have. $

Nowa Próżna (C3) ul. Próżna 10, nowaprozna.pl Where once Próżna was symbolic of Warsaw’s urban decay, today it’s been rebooted as a swank

www.focaccia.pl tel.: +48 22 829 69 69, ul. Senatorska 13/15, Warsaw/Old Town restauracja@focaccia.pl, fb.com/restauracjafocaccia

New Menu

Aperitivo Bar

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listings / restaurants street of brasseries and bistros. Nowhere captures the zeitgeist with the same élan as Nowa Próżna, an intimate corner unit that feels representative of the change. Dishes to watch for include young rooster in an intense pool of jus and a zander encircled in a forest of greens: powerful stuff that leaves those assembled in a state of joy. $$ Północ Poludnie (E7) ul. Bagatela 10, pn-pd.pl Besides the food being colorful and inventive there is a restaurant concept that works here. It has a visible kitchen, which at times is a little noisy, a beautifully designed interior, not to mention an attentive wait staff that are familiar with what they serve. $$ Prosta Historia (H4) ul. Francuska 24, prostahistoria.com Informal-looking with its simple white finishes and stripped wooden floors, Prosta fills a ‘catch-all’ role of cafe/restaurant/ bar/meeting point. And it does all the aforementioned very well indeed, thanks to a skilled chef, a good drinks offer and a continental atmosphere that’s all life and good humor. $$ Qchnia Artystyczna (E6) Al. Jazdów 2 (Zamek Ujazdowski), tel. 22 625 7627, qchnia.pl Even on a cold, ashen day, can you question a view that spills down onto a canal and park way down below? And how about when that view comes from a candle-lit reconstructed castle… Endlessly romantic, this artistic eatery comes with a light look and a creative menu. $$

Sawa Bistro (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5, sawabistro.pl An unpretentious ride through largely Mediterranean cuisine with standouts including ‘Galicianstyle octopus’ and an Italian tartar with olive powder, shallots in port and balsamic vinegar and a smoked egg. The interiors are stripped to their original concrete and feature an eye-catching mosaic designed in the PRL style, as well as floor-to-ceiling windows and cheerful blue flashes. $$ Secado (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 66, tel. 608 707 799, secado.com.pl Casual, intimate interiors complement a menu that’s expanded from its original Latin leanings. Everything we’ve tried

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here has been close to culinary gold, and that includes the surf & turf, tortillas and the roast beef. $$ Soul Kitchen Bistro (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 18A, soulkitchen.pl If the previous venue was all slanted towards low-pitched business conversation then the new one is positively festive in comparison: scuffed brickwork, tall bar stools, a long communal table, etc. The seasonal menu is a pick-and-mix of small-to-medium plates, including a halibut gravlax, whose delicate taste juxtaposes well against the rougher, earthier kick of the radish, and crayfish presented in a bird’s nest of green beans, fennel and leek. For mains, look for the braised beef. $ Stixx (A4) Pl. Europejski 4A, tel. 22 340 4040, stixx.pl A quite extraordinary concept shoehorned between the Hilton and the dazzling Warsaw Spire, the first thing to strike visitors about Stixx is its size: immense.

Despite that, an intelligent, hyper modern design means intimacy is never short in supply. The menu is bold, featuring elements of Polish, Asian and Italian cooking, an idea that sounds absurdly risky – so it speaks volumes for the kitchen staff that they’ve mastered all three. Highlights include a brilliantly composed Polish tapas plate and curries that will knock your socks off. $$

Strefa (C3) ul. Próżna 9, tel. 22 255 0850, restauracjastrefa.pl There’s a swan white elegance here, with lots of pristine colors and smart, smooth-talking service. What a refreshing change. Chef Jarosław Walczyk favors sous-vide techniques, and his is a magic, masterful hand – his duck is flawless, and the homemade ice cream with seasonal fruits is quite a follow-up. $$$ Warbuger Na Żelazna (B4) ul. Żelazna 58/62 The easiest mistake one can make is to think this is a burger joint – in part it is, but the whole truth is that it’s so much more. A complete upgrade from their original joint in Mokotów, the real attraction is an enticing page of more-ish, meaty mains: oxtail, beef cheeks and other snips of bits and offal. $$

listings / restaurants Wilczy Głód (D5) ul. Wilcza 29A, tel. 22 891 0285 The jaunty, impish design makes use of cartoonish wolves on the walls and tree-like installations strung with bare light bulbs. And look, there’s a furry, mouse resting on a cushion.

But if the place is playful and perky, then the cooking is both serious and sincere.

Matching international ideas with organic local produce from small family farmsteads, you immediately sense this is a place created out of a love and respect for food. $

italian Ave Pizza (E3) ul. Topiel 12, tel. 22 828 8507, avepizza. pl The argument over who serves Warsaw’s best pizza goes right to the wire, but there’s no doubting that Ave Pizza are up there on the leaderboard. Set across a sparse, metropolitan area, this fashionable L-shaped joint comes endorsed by the capital’s notoriously picky Italian community. Order the pillowy calzone and you’ll soon learn why. $ Delizia (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 22 622 6665, delizia. com.pl The sheer proliferation of Italian restaurants lends an element of chance to dining out: cut through the noise by visiting Delizia, a place that’s consistently topped polls ever since it launched in 2010.

Lorenzo’s cooking is upscale Italian with a contemporary twist, and comes presented by

Luca, an ebullient ball of energy who patrols the floor with sparkling good humor. In the hands of these two an unforgettable night comes guaranteed. Top quality imported products, a dimly-lit romantic atmosphere, a tasteful design and faultless food: no wonder so many rate this as their favorite Italian. $$ Dziurka od Klucza (E3) ul. Radna 13, tel. 500 150 494, dziurkaodklucza.com.pl An inviting Italian restaurant in which curious doors sit embedded into the walls, as if waiting to be opened by the keys that hang on the tree outside. Striking a lavender look, the magic of this restaurant is affirmed by its wonderful pasta and intimate style. $$

Enoteka (C1) Rynek Nowego Miasta 13/15, enotekapolska. pl This L-shaped space feels completely correct: tall ceilings, big windows, marble floors and an overwhelming sense of light and sun. The mood is good.

Food matches the serious wine list and includes a rich topinmabur soup, creamy Agnolloti pasta and a hearty steak. These are not attempts at a kitchen revolution, rather a concentrated focus on a menu that makes sense. $$ Focaccia (D2) ul. Senatorska 13/15, tel. 22 829 6969, focaccia.pl The Insider’s visit went something

like this: wrist-thick octopus with an arc of yellow mousse, conversation stopping beef tenderloin alongside a glistening pool of madeira sauce and then an orange ice cream with caramel and ginger that soon merged into a big gooey brew of chocolatey mess.

The only surprise is there’s no Italian in the kitchen – it appears they don’t need one.

This is seriously talented cooking inside an interior that fresh and light and reflective of the food. $$ Mąka i Woda (D4) ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 91 87 Purists applaud an approach that uses a custommade oven from Naples and imported ingredients such as 00 Caputo flour and DOP certified San Marzano tomatoes.

Scrupulously authentic, it’s no wonder that it’s packed to the gunnels every night of the week – even their Facebook page warns of 20-minute waiting times for a table alone.

Learning this, some storm off in a huff – they need their heads checked, for this is Warsaw’s best pizza. $ Ristorante San Lorenzo (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 36, tel. 22 652 1616, sanlorenzo.pl Adorned with crisp, starched linen and Roman frescos this space is almost magisterial in design. The Tuscan menu is flawless and well worth the rather hefty bill.

The wine bar on the ground floor features the same standards at a snip of the price, and it’s here you’ll find Italian natives cheering the Serie A football. Now also on Żurawia

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listings / restaurants 6/12, only with a more modish design clearly targeted at a slightly younger audience. $$ Sexy Duck Pl. Konstytucji 3, tel. 22 400 3737 Marketing themselves as a ‘craft Italian kitchen’, Sexy Duck make a song and dance about artisan this and that while never justifying their own hyperbole. Were they not so keen to tell you otherwise, you’d mistake the food as being something from a mid-market high street chain enterprise. But if their pizza never goes beyond ordinary, that’s done nothing to keep trade from being brisk. Inside interiors filled with aged, raw materials, find a new generation of diners making the most of the low, low prices. $ Si (C3) ul. Marszałkowska 115 From the makers of Secado comes a new downtown venture: Si, a fun Italian stop with homemade pasta, an array of pizza and a hefty choice of cocktails.

Geared towards good times, a list of rotating daily offers has done a fair job of drumming up trade. $$ Trattoria Murano (B1) ul. Pokorna 2, tel. 516 754 300, trattoriamurano.pl Boosted by a number of new real estate projects, Muranów is in the midst of an unlikely renaissance. A direct knock-on has been the birth of numerous restaurants, though few can compete with Trattoria Murano. Looking dapper with its zigzagging brick patterns and circular lights,

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the good mood is further enhanced by a highly credible menu that scores well on the Italian classics. $$

unconventional pieces: the Californian rolls aren’t reticent about involving ingredients such as chili, passion fruit and jalapeno.

japanese & sushi

Omami (D5) ul. Mokotowska 29 (enter from Krucza) Sushi has been side-lined and ramen is rising.

Opened a few months ago, Omami promise four types of ramen, not to mention steamed buns and other budget-minded Japanese options. $

Benihana (C4) ul. Twarda 2/4, benihanapoland.com Fire, flash, show and sizzle: the Benihana experience merges cooking with cabaret with diners sat ringside around teppanyaki grills.

These cooking stations are the stage for the Benihana crew to demonstrate their riveting range of nifty knifework and daredevil antics.

Outside of the realm of the grill, the sushi is also strikes the right spot. At times, its as if the place was created with big. boozy bashes in mind. $$ Izumi Sushi ul. Mokotowska 17 (pl. Zbawiciela), tel.

22 825 7950, izumisushi.eu The original location never ceases to amaze with its sushi, though it’s the addition at Biały Kamień that really gets people talking. Here it’s not just the food that wows, but the interiors: a huge venue whose open plan doubles as an indoor forest. $$ Łuski i Ości ul. Zajączka 9A, luskiosci.pl A fun design (cool wall art and a wraparound aquarium built into the bar) is ably supported by a comprehensive range of sushi – the imaginative presentation is fitting of some of the more

Om nom nom (D5) ul. Kurcza 41/43, tel. 794 925 075, fb.com/ omnomnom.sushito Japanese meets Mexican: if there’s a more unlikely culinary marriage, then we’ve yet to hear it. Set inside a colorful, wacky space, the specialty here is the sushito, a long sushi wrap filled with the likes of sweetcorn, jalapenos and chicken panko. In the words of one established restaurateur, this is ‘a place for rich kids who don’t have a clue about food.’ That said, it hasn’t stopped the place enjoying massive local success. If you like your eating habits to break the norm, then you might enjoy it. $$ Sakana Sushi Bar ul. Burakowska 5/7 tel. 22 636 0505, ul. Moliera 4/6, tel. 22 826 5958, & ul.

Wąwozowa 6, lok.10B, tel. 22 498 8899, sakana.pl Sushi as a fashion statement?

That’s what you find in Sakana, a place where the glam and the great of Warsaw peacock around with feathers on display.

Ignoring the general vanity and unpleasant-

AU T H E N T I C P O L I S H C U I S I N E

Krakowskie Przedmieście 64, Warsaw Krakowskie Przedmieście 64 tel. +48 22 826 47 70 email: info@delicjapolska.pl www.delicjapolska.pl Reseva7ons:

listings / restaurants ness, one can’t help but applaud the sushi – if there was one winner in the sushi wars of the noughties, then Sakana was it. $$ Shabu Shabu Hot Pot (D6) ul. Mokotowska 27, tel. 535 685 750, shabu-shabu.pl Each table has its own set of hot pots installed and once you choose your broth and extras, you are the master of your own culinary destiny. We chose some seafood and some greens and were served a dish that was not quite a pad thai, but incredibly tasty all the same. A simple meal, but satisfying nonetheless. $$

Shoku (A4) ul. Karolkowa 30, shoku.pl In local terms, this has to be amongst the most blogged about restaurants of the year thus far. While it actually opened several months back, it’s only now that the place is gathering steam and getting recognized thanks to word-of-mouth.

In truth, it’s not hard to see what the fuss is about: occupying a cool, almost industriallooking spot not far from the Rising Museum, Shoku offers an excellent menu of Asian-style tapas and small plates inside a buzzy background that’s never short of custom. The tuna steak is recommended. $$

Sushi Zushi (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 420 3373, sushizushi.pl The mania for sushi is in recess, and that’s a good thing – the rogue operators are dead or dying off, and are survived by the best. And make no mistake, Sushi Zushi continue to be one of the No. 1 ex-pat choices. Appreciated by a stunning crowd, the rolls are often bold, creative and always astonishingly fresh. The world could end tomorrow, but as long as you ate in Sushi Zushi the night before you probably wouldn’t notice. $$ Temari (D6) ul. Mokotowska 8, temari.pl Pristine, almost holistic in ambiance, the idea here is to create a top class joint for sushi ‘to go’.

No expense has been spared on the packaging, ingredients and overall look, the trouble is, sushi doesn’t naturally keep. Our Little Kyoto Box was full of bright sparkly colors, but the rolls already showed the tell-tale signs of having lost their moisture. Fingers crossed they see sense and start making sushi to order instead – if they do, we have a winner. $$ Tomo (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2344, tomo. pl While Warsaw’s other sushi stops gather cobwebs Tomo packs out each night – that should say enough. With the maki, sushi and sashimi bobbing past on wooden platters, this place aims for fast, maximum turnover without ever making the diner feel second best. $$ Uki Uki (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, tel. 728 827 705, ukiuki. pl How much do the locals appreciate Warsaw’s original udon bar? Enough to queue outside the door? That’s right. Dining is a close quarters experience here, but is done so without complaint: that electric pasta maker turns out noodles of such chewy goodness that everyone leaves beaming. $$ Wabu Pl. Europejski 2 (Warsaw Spire), wabu.pl Sushi becomes a heaven’s gate spiritual experience in Wabu with the evening passing in a blur of beautiful compositions, of silky slithers of fish crowned with expert pinches of this, and little brush strokes of that. That’s all elevated even further by deliciously upscale interiors befitting of the Spire location. $$$

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listings / restaurants korean Wasabi Pl. Piłsudskiego 2 (Metropolitan Building), tel. 22 314 6963, restauracjawasabi.pl Rated as one of the best value for money deals on sushi you’ll find in the city, the sets offer phenomenally good value. Sushi master Masahiro Ueyama knows all the tricks in the book, and his green tea tiramisu is a surprising finish.

jewish Pod Samsonem (C1) ul. Freta 3/5, tel. 22 831 1788, podsamsonem.pl Operating since the 1950s, this is the place for an ordinary meal in an ordinary space. The menu mixes aspects of Polish and Jewish cooking, and fails to do a good job of either. Staff, meanwhile, definitely work to old school ethics, which can add a twist that’s frenzied and frustrating $

Miss Kimchi (B4) ul. Żelazna 58/62, tel. 570 186 066 Cheap and cheerful Korean street food served in a small, steamy space that’s frequently packed to the rafters. Box sets come piled high with meat, rice and veg. The spotlight falls on the bibimbap, a satisfying mess of shredded veg, lively spices, a fried egg and beef bulgogi. $ Onggi (D2) ul. Moliera 2 Positive transformations aren’t confined to Ramsay’s Kitchen Nightmares: after a dreadful start characterized by bland, claggy dishes, this Korean restaurant has spun a U-turn that’s left the competition reeling. The menu is daunting in size, but contains wildly interesting finds such as a streaky bacon stir fry, spicy pickled Daikon radish and lotus root simmered in soy sauce. $$ Sora (A4) ul. Wronia 45 Always bubbling with South Korean customers, their reassuring presence

affirms Sora’s reputation as the top Korean restaurant in town. The menu here is as close too authentic as you’ll find in Poland, and includes a fiery kimchi salad as well as an interesting bibimbap: a vegetable mix served in a spicy sauce. Most of all though, you simply have to sample the table grill: a shared bonding experience, it’s even better with copious quantities of Makkoli wine. $$

latin & spanish Casa Pablo (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5A, tel. 22 324 5781 “We give Spanish food a new twist,” declares chef Gonzalo de Salas, which explains why, in between pungent cheeses and acorn-fed Bellota ham, we find ourselves demolishing a variety of dishes that buck all notions of tradition: as a starter the beetroot-marinated salmon served with wasabi emulsion is a fine example of this.

Casa Pablo presents a masterful menu that ripples with adventure. $$

L AT IN O NE W Y YE AR’S EVE AT S O F I T E L WA R S AW V I C T O R I A

We invite you to welcome the New Year with a Latino fiesta held at the Ballroom of our hotel.

The character of the evening will be highlighted by a delicious Latino themed menu and spectacular performances of amazing artists, including the Carnival Stars dance quartet, the Rei Ceballo & Tripulacion Cubana salsa orchestra, the Ritmodelia percussion ensemble, and a duo of Brazilian capoeira martial artists.

Price per person: PLN 590 Reservations Tel.: +48 22 657 82 89 Email: h3378-cr@sofitel.com

Wa r s aw V i c t o r i a

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listings / restaurants Ceviche Bar (C4) ul. Twarda 4, cevichebar.pl Created by the award-winning Martin Gimenez Castro, Warsaw’s first specialist ceviche bar serves up various interpretations of this classic raw fish dish: the corvina is an explosion of peppy, citrusy tastes and leaves you in no doubt why some are tipping ceviche to become as big as sushi. Try for yourself inside a contemporary space in which the dining area merges seamlessly with a kitchen decorated with a mural of Maradona. $$ BEST WAWA 2015 “Foreign Chef” Tapas Gastrobar (A4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 251 1310, tapasbar.pl The engaging design features scuffed timber tables supported by rescued factory metal, open ductwork and elaborate floor tiles of Iberian persuasion. But the food is what everyone is talking about: the first class gazpacho, prepared onsite then served in a bottle, is full of refreshing zing, while the beef cheek is pure melty tenderness.

Our favorite, though, are the patatas bravas,

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perfectly fried potatoes served in a ballsy tomato sauce. Just amazing. $$

reports have been positive, with service issues cited as a particular complaint. $$

Restaurante Bunuel (H4) ul. Walecznych 61, tel. 798 659 554, bunuelrestauracja.com Spanish-owned Bunuel has left many in raptures. Simple interiors focus attention on the food, which in this case involves a crisp gazpacho that gets you missing summer, and grilled meats that leave many in a swoon. $$

Dos Tacos (D4) ul. Jasna 22, tel. 22 243 4618, dostacos.pl Who doesn’t like asking for something that’s ‘under the counter’. In the case of Dos Tacos, doing so means inquiring about their range of ‘salsa clandestinas’: extra hot sauces designed for reckless thrill-seekers. But the true secret weapon at Dos Tacos is Isabel Balderas, a Mexican chef that has mastered the bright, bold tastes of her native country.

This cuisine has enjoyed a breakout year in Warsaw, but while the millennials clamor over new food trucks and funky little start-ups, Dos Tacos is a timely reminder that the old guard sometimes know best. $$

mexican Blue Cactus (E8) ul. Zajączkowska 11, tel. 22 851 2323, bluecactus.pl Combining the barbecuing techniques of the southern states with the humble but potent tastes of Mexico, this veteran landmark is committed to local produce and fresh flavors, the previous chef’s finest moment was hoiking over a wood-fired grill all the way from Nashville – the steaks will stop you in your tracks. Note: not all recent

Gringo Bar (E9) ul. Odolańska 15, tel. 22 848 9523, gringobar.pl A Mexican wave is upon us, and high time too. After years of suffering frozen ingredients, timid flavors and daft Mariachi music to persuade us it’s all authentic, a raft

listings / restaurants of new cut-price eateries are showing the rest how it’s done. Cooked and folded by fist bumping lads in back-to-front caps and baggy t-shirts, the food at Gringo is fiery, fresh and full of zing. There are detractors who claim this is a Polonized version of this cuisine, but the informal Gringo remains one of the market leaders. $

‘Simplicity, elegance and atmosphere’

Cafe • Wine Bar • Restaurant • Whisky Bar • Wine Cellar ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 515 037 001 www.hoza.warszawa.pl www.facebook.com/hoza25 Open 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-21:00

La Sirena (D5) ul. Piękna 54 Apparently inspired by the ultraviolent films of Danny Trejo, the design finds a middle ground between a traditional cantina and El Chapo’s jail. The menu includes creamy Kermit-colored guacamole, cocktails that are both vicious and delicious, and ‘drunken beans’ full of heart and vim.

Does it get better? Yes, particularly with the ‘short ribs burrito’ and a readjusted ‘almost death’ salsa that’s finally learned to say POW. This is the best Mexican food Warsaw is ever likely to see. $$ Urban Burritos (D6) ul. Piękna 22, urbanburritos.pl It’s here, in this unassuming subterranean world, that people gather for what is being hyped as Warsaw’s top burrito. Offering fillings of pork, beef, chicken and Portobello mushroom, wraps come expertly constructed and served with salsas that sing with gusto.

Set within shouting distance of the US Embassy, peak times see Urban Burritos fill to the seams with America’s finest. $

middle eastern Falafel Bejrut (B2) ul. Nowolipki 15 Light, bright and buzzing with custom, this cheerful venture has a small scattering of seating and an expanded menu whose talking point is award-winning falafel. The hummus, too, is pretty amazing.

Le Cedre (E1) Al. Solidarności 61, tel.

22 670 1166, www. lecedre.pl With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer.

Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoalgrilled lamb chops. $$ Le Cedre 84 (B3) Al. Solidarności 84, tel.

22 618 8999, lecedre. pl Le Cedre just keep on getting it right.

Authenticity is key in this chainlette (well, there’s another across the river), as you’ll discover when talking to Tony, the Lebanese owner. To see the diversity of this cuisine, order the balbaak (six cold starters) or the byblos (six hot). And food aside, it’s the atmosphere that carries them that extra yard: the whole philosophy of this cuisine is to share and share alike, making it a uniquely engaging experience when dining with friends. $$ Sokotra (D5) ul. Wilcza 27, tel. 22 270 2766, sokotra.pl It says a lot for Warsaw’s developing tastes that it can now house a successful Yemeni venture.

Bathed in chatter and chaotic kitchen sounds, Sokotra is an informal place with Indian twists on the menu, and a card that encourages plenty of plate sharing. $$

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Falafel Bejrut Moliera 8 (D2) ul. Moliera 8 So what would you prefer – an underperforming steakhouse or what’s commonly regarded as the best falafel Warsaw has ever seen? In all truth, polls are closed on that one. Taking the place of the defunct Muu Muu restaurant, Falafel Bejrut have grown from life as a ‘food bike’ outside Hala Mirowska, to a runaway juggernaut in the heart of Warsaw. Both the falafel and hummus are exceptional, and you’ll find their latest venue also serving artisanal vegan ice cream from Vegestacja. $

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Ale Gloria (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7080, alegloria.pl Who said romance was dead?

Here wedding white colors are fused with a strawberry motif inside this gourmet fave.

Keeping patrons returning are aromatic dishes with a contemporary twist – try the duck in rose sauce. $$$ Bez Gwiazdek (E3) ul. Wiślana 8, bezgwiazdek.com.pl Hide the white tablecloth! One of the more discernible trends of 2016 has seen chefs attempt to

listings / restaurants replicate fine dining standards but in casual surrounds. Few are more qualified to do so than Robert Trzópek, a man whose résumé includes experience gained in Noma and El Bulli. Seeking out produce from specialist local farmers, his tasting menu (zł. 80 upwards) aims to ‘rediscover and reinterpret forgotten Polish cuisine’. So far, feedback has been gushingly positive. We’ll be visiting soon to see for ourselves. $$

Czerwony Wieprz (Red Hog) (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 22 850 3144, czerwonywieprz.pl Shush! Big Brother is watching in the Red Pig, but the beady-eyed tyrants who stare down from the portraits do little to impede the sense of revelry. A cheeky celebration of days of yore, this commie-themed restaurant is always great fun. The menu is a humorous affair divided between dishes for the proletariat and the dignitary. Another vodka,

comrade, and the first secretary’s pork loins while you’re there! $$ Dawne Smaki (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 49, tel. 22 465 83 20 At last, a proper restaurant on Nowy Świat!

The interiors hark to the past, while the back garden promises an oasis-like experience: if you’re new to Warsaw, it’s actually worth hanging around till summer just to see it. The menu sees Polish dishes modernized while being treated with competence and respect.

Recommended: deer steak. $$ Dekagram (C5) ul. E. Plater 9/11, restauracjadekagram.pl Step through the mists of time in Dekagram, a restaurant that evokes the spirit of Warsaw’s inter-war golden age. It’s not just the antique interiors that make such time travel possible, but also a menu that has sought to reprise recipes from a distant age: stuffed goose necks, homemade dumplings and old fashioned żurek complete with an egg. Full review coming soon. $$

Delicja Polska (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 64, tel. 22 826 4770, delicjapolska.pl Looking stately (pink bows, gilt touches and immaculate linen) but never stuffy, Delicja have a modern Polish menu that includes sous-vide salmon marinated in beetroot leaves, then topped with horseradish foam and dill emulsion.

Brilliant. But then so was everything else we tried, including the exquisite seasoned roast beef. $$ Dom Polski (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 2432, restauracjadompolski.pl Almost like it was designed for the manor born, Dom Polski has the rarefied atmosphere of a country retreat: bow-tied staff who click their heels, decorative antiques and a menu that’s a sumptuous anthology of posh Polish cooking.

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listings / restaurants classic Warsaw, Dom Polski is the first out of the hat. $$$ Dom Polski Belwederska (F8) ul. Belwederska 18A, tel. 22 840 5060, restauracjadompolski.pl Accessed via curling pathways and bursting shrubs this restaurant conjures images of an aristocrat’s manor. The air of privilege matches a menu that’s rich in fanciful classics such as their signature goose. Elegant and exquisite, consider it your default choice for a taste of true Poland. $$

RESTAURANT &

VODKA

AT E L I E R

Elixir by Dom Wódki (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl The dashing interior causes you to stop, look and touch. On one side, a gleaming bar with twinkling bottles, and on the other, a smart series of rooms whose ash-colored tones are punctuated with dashes of copper. The menu has a traditional heart yet a contemporary style, and includes golonka to make the heart flutter:

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glorious slow-cooked meat alongside horse radish ice cream and a cabbage mousse. The vodka pairing menu is essential! $$

Folk Gospoda (B3) ul. Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605, folkgospoda.pl Be honest, sometimes all you want to do is slather lard on a big hunk of bread before surrounding yourself with little shots of ice cold vodka. You wouldn’t call it cultivated, but there are occasions when a good knees-up around a rough wooden table is exactly what’s required.

And while you’re there, why not add platters of meat to the scene, a crackling fireplace and a mountain band. Folk Gospoda do all that making them the default favorite for a traditional night out. $$ Halka Restaurcja po polsku (E9) ul. Puławska 43, tel. 509 593 305, restauracjahalka.pl Named in honor of one of Poland’s

best known operas, Halka offer a glimpse of old school Warsaw. Having relocated from downtown Pańska, the new address is a cut and paste of the former location: lots of glinting surfaces, ornate crockery and pink flower arrangements. Innovation is surrendered for a menu that deals in classic interpretations of upmarket Polish food: rabbit, goose, duck and other animals shot on country estates. $$ Jaś & Małgosia (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 57, tel. 502 033 711, klubjasimalgosia.pl The menu was designed in collaboration with Aleksander Baron, and while unglamorous and uncomplicated is food that represents all that’s good about the Polish kitchen: thick soups, fresh vegetables and hefty meat. Most of all, it makes you feel good on a wet, windy day. $ Kafe Zielony Niedzwiedź (E4) ul. Smolna 4, tel. 731 996 006, kafezn.pl Exceeding all expectations in their second year, the Green Bear has turned into the mothership for all things relating to slow

listings / restaurants food: if in doubt, check the menu, an ode to provenance that comes complete with detailed biographies of their suppliers. Using creative techniques, this restaurant modernizes Polish food and rolls it out inside a stylish building popular with people who look like they might well be famous. Incidentally, the sea buckthorn cream was our top dessert of 2015. $$ Kieliszki na Próżnej (C3) ul. Próżna 12, tel. 501 764 674, kieliszkinaproznej.pl You’ll find Kieliszki na Próżnej, the latest restaurant to mark the rehabilitation of Próżna, so named after the 1,116 wineglasses that hang tantalizingly over the bar. As an anchor feature the suspended glassware is arresting, and equaled only by a long stretch of wall art doodled by Mariusz Tarkawian. The food matches up to the interiors, with a modern Polish menu that – on our visit – involved a thick, brilliantly spreadable foie gras pate, a thick slab of brawn and a delicate piece of moist Baltic cod. It’s pure seasonal comfort. $$ Kmicic (D1) ul. Piwna 27, kmicicrestauracja.pl Aiming to evoke the spirit of pre-war Warsaw, Kmicic is something of a veteran on the Old Town circuit, and as such a perennial favorite of passing tourists. The menu leans heavily towards traditional and is noted for its game including pheasant, venison and boar. $$ Mała Polana Smaków (F9) ul. Belwederska 13/44, tel. 22 400 8048, polanasmakow.pl Put simply, it works on every level: from the service to the space – outside, a terrace featuring upcycled crates overlooking Morskie Oko, and on the inside, a cute little room with woodsy bits and big glass jars of mystery ingredients. It’s casual, but still fit for more serious roles: e.g. girlfriend night. And the food: exceptional.

Lots of seasonally changing choices that on our visit meant salmon sausage matched with beetroot and horseradish sauce along with pinches of lavender and fennel. $$ Opasły Tom (E4) ul. Foksal 17, kregliccy.pl Sneaked off a lively street, guests duck down into a chain of two narrow-ish chambers that, whilst not exactly casual, feel comfortable and familiar. Agata Wojda’s cooking is sublime, and on our latest trip include a gentle goose confit rested on pumpkin puree and prune sauce and a smoked trout mousse full of unexpectedly

vivid flavors. It’d be easy to write this off as just simple stuff done well, but you know that’s not the case: if it really were that straightforward, everyone would be pulling BEST WAWA 2015 “Modern it off. $$ Polish” Papu (D9) al. Niepodległości 132/136, tel. 22 856 7788, restauracjapapu.pl The elegant décor sees wood-paneled walls lined with champagne bottles, making it an experience that is at once intimate and romantic. Chef Bartek Kędra’s menu is specifically strong when it comes to white and red meats: order the beef rib. It’s a massive, brutal instrument that could be used to club someone to death. Falloff-the-bone good, this Flintstone monster is seriously memorable. Other courses are more sophisticated, and include a knee trembling, lipstick red strawberry tartar. $$ Podwale Piwna Kompania (D2) ul. Podwale 25, tel. 22 635 6314, podwale25.pl Prowling mountain bands generate a beer hall atmosphere, while the courtyard garden – designed to replicate a Mitteleuropa square – is one of the best you’ll find. But the obscene portions can’t mask what is pretty poor food. Go there for the experience, if nothing else. $ Prasowy (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16 Delicate diners turn their back on milk bars, yet this canteenstyle phenomenon, with its history rooted in communism, has enjoyed a remarkable renaissance and a freshly found popularity with a new generation. Sure, the food is an acquired taste and best described using words like ‘basic’, ‘bland’ and ‘honest’, but Prasowy gets our vote for a cool design that’s seen the 1954 interiors sensitively updated. $

For An Authentic Polish Experience Visit Us...

Piwna 27 Stare Miasto (old town) tel. 22 635 3121

Restauracja Pod Gigantami (E5) Al. Ujadowskie 24, tel. 22 629 2312, podgigantami.pl The wine list impresses, as do the elegantly fairytale turn-of-the-century interiors. The menu, meanwhile, is almost ambassadorial in its representation of Polish food: you feel, almost, that these are dishes of the pre-war aristocracy aesthetically updated to suit the moden world. $$$ www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / restaurants Restauracja Polska “Różana” (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 22 848 1225, restauracjarozana.com.pl The rarified atmosphere of Różana is a pleasure indeed. Close to the frontline of Mokotów / Śródmieście, you’d never guess the proximity of the center.

Seated in their garden, one feels removed from the city – a fountain burbles quietly in the background, starlings hop around the trees. From the inside, one hears the distant tinkle of the house pianist. Just being here is a thrill in itself, and the food is a Polish dining extravaganza served from the top table: farmhouse duck, saddle of venison, etc. $$ Słoik (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 600 396 688, restauracjasloik.pl Jarheads will love Słoik, a place lined with glass jars brimming with colorful ingredients and bright preserves. Find natural Polish produce and traditional-sounding dishes treated with a careful and contemporary hand. The approach pits modernist against classic, and the winner is, well, you.

This is traditional Polish food updated for the discerning, latter day palate – and it’s really quite something. $ Solec 44 (F4) ul. Solec 44, tel. 798 363 996, solec.waw.pl Beaver tail one month, carp heads the next.

Combing the farms and forests of Poland for his ingredients, chef Aleksander Baron’s menu is a daring exploration of his nose-totail philosophy with many of his methods reprising extinguished traditions. It’s a real

Le Cedre 61

opposite the zoo Al. Solidarności 61, Praga Tel 22 670 11 66 lecedre@lecedre.pl

www.lecedre.pl

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experience, and one that’s enjoyed inside a spontaneous looking, cut-price interior that clacks and clatters to the sound of grown-ups playing board games. $$

Specjały Regionalne (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 44, specjalyregionalne.pl To step across the threshold is to leave Warsaw behind: mimicking the look of a rural pantry, Specjały is awash with provincial craft work and traditional dress. A truly ethnographic journey, the menu whisks diners across Poland with its choice of classic dishes and regional ingredients: there is heavy, meaty soup served in a hollowed out hunk of bread; snails farmed in Warmia; and a warming beef goulash that hugs the soul. The commitment to small town Poland extends to the alcohol, and no visit is complete without a stiffening drop of vodka. $$ Stary Dom ul. Puławska 104/106, tel. 22 646 4208, restauracjastarydom.pl A classic restaurant in style and history: back in the day it was a favorite haunt of jockeys and race goers from the horse track nearby. Pre-war recipes form the basis of the menu, with the team using seasonal produce and the latest technology to bring out its best. $$

U Fukiera (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 27 (Old Town Market Square), tel. 22 831 1013, ufukiera.pl New arrivals looking to get a grasp of local cuisine have many options in varying price brackets. U Fukiera is definitely in the big spend category, but visitors come away with a common sense of wonderment. That’s largely due to enchanting interiors that have guests exploring twinkling chambers that unravel like a fairytale. Set in a 500 year old townhouse, the beautiful backdrop is accompanied by a grand menu of duck, venison, veal and lamb. $$$ Varso Vie (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 2, varso-vie.pl Despite the concrete color palette Varso Vie retains a good buzz. It helps that on one side guests are flanked by punchy bursts of modern art, and on the other, an open kitchen that’s all clamor, commotion and general rumpus.

The menu is modern Polish: duck stomachs in a flaky puff pastry with a thick smear of thyme sauce; Baltic trout served on a pinkish mush of red lentils and mint; and a coveted meringue mousse with mascarpone and passion fruit jelly. Exemplary. $$

Zapiecek Locations inc. ul. Nowy Świat 64, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska

Le Cedre 84

opposite the court Al. Solidarności 84 Tel 22 618 89 99 lecedre84@lecedre.pl

listings / restaurants 13, tel. 22 635 61 09, & ul. Wańkowicza 1, open 11:00-22:00, CH Arkadia, zapiecek. eu Seven Warsaw locales, with our favorite found in the vaulted passages of Świętojańska. The menu is highly traditional, with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’.

It’s for the pierogi though for which they’re famous; find approx. fifty types delivered by servers dressed like saucy country maids. $ Zielnik (D10) ul. Odyńca 15, tel. 22 844 3500, restauracjazielnik.pl A quiet Mokotów side street is the setting for this little secret. In it, flowers, lots of them, and a warming wood interior just right for winter. In summer, head instead to their glorious garden across the street in the park: adding a sophisticated twist to the holy grill, the skewered lamb is to die for. $$

Seafood doesn’t play a particularly distinguished role in Warsaw’s culinary history, so the opening of a good fish restaurant tends to get the locals talking. But Lokal isn’t just good, it goes several steps beyond. Open just three days a week (Thu-Sat, evenings only), the rotating menu presents a handful of daily choices against a simple, no pretence interior that’s often packed solid – reservations come recommended, as do the mussel dishes. $$ U Rysia (C4) ul. Marszałkowska 140 (enter from ul. Rysia), urysia.com.pl Devoid of frills bar a glowing neon sign and a brooding mural of Jesus, it looks like a Polish fish restaurant should – basic but with an undercurrent of bustle that keeps the mood bright. It tastes like the real thing as well. Sourcing their catch from the freshwater lakes of northern Poland, the offer is divided into fish that have been smoked, steamed, fried or baked. Check out the perch ‘chips’ fried in batter. $

black risotto; and steak served under a glass dome billowing with Cherrywood smoke.

Everything we tried was stunning. $$

steak houses Butchery & Wine (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 502 3118, butcheryandwine.pl The Sarf London-born Bertha oven has revolutionized the way steak is cooked, retaining moisture in a way no-one thought possible. Expect robust pieces of animal full of big, brawny tastes, but there’s so much more than just meat: starters involve a sea bass ceviche that pings with citrusy flavor not to mention more-ish pork crackling that pop like fire bangers in the mouth. A place of energy and ambition, it’s a great mix of both new and classic. Bookings advised. $$

L’Arc (E8) ul. Puławska 16, tel. 519 000 050, larc. pl You sometimes suspect Warsaw doesn’t give seafood the respect it deserves. But the city’s shortcomings are atoned for by L’Arc. Choose from the lobsters swimming on Death Row, then settle back for a meal to die for.

Likewise, the oysters, crab and mussels never disappoint. $$

Ed Red Warszawa Pl. Mirowski 1, edred.pl Already famed for their steaks in Kraków, the opening of a branch of Ed Red in Warsaw has been greeted with hysteria. You understand why just looking at the starters: big, juicy marrow bones, blood sausage with onion preserve, and mountain oysters with smoke white chocolate sauce. But for all that, the center stage belongs to the steaks, many of which are made using dry-aged meat for optimum taste. Full review soon. $$

Lokal na Rybę (D9) salto new add.pdf 1 ul. Kwiatowa 1/3/4, fb.com/lokalnarybe

Hoża (D5) ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 603 778 275, hoza.

seafood

Zmiana Klimatu (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, zmianaklimatu.pl An interesting looking restaurant that affords diners the chance to climb up some steps and eat inside a boat. The food, frankly, is a different league: a thick, throbbing lemon soup poured carefully over a dust of crayfish; 17/11/16 12:12 two slithers of seabass layered onto a creamy

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listings / restaurants warszawa.pl Wine and steak: it sounds so simple, but Hoża have taken two simple pleasures to another level. It’s an ebullient space with service right out of charm school, and a kitchen team with a real knowledge of cows. A red-blooded affair, the menu is a steak sensation and well paired with a handpicked wine list. $$

opt instead for his South American inspired dishes. Salto has the hallmarks of a success story, and under Castro’s captaincy that’s a certainty to happen. $$$ BEST WAWA 2015 “Foreign Chef”

Merliniego 5 (E10) ul. Merliniego 5, tel. 22 646 0810, merliniego5.pl A classic looking steakhouse that swirls in shadow, brickwork and elegant touches, it’s a place to immerse yourself in an atmosphere that’s all surreptitious conversation and distant clinking glasses.

The steaks are out-of-this world, with USDA prime beef from New York’s legendary Ottomanelli & Sons and Scottish beef from London’s Smithfield Market. On our last visit we splurged on the Grade 9+ wagyu ‘kobe’ rib-eye and found ourselves eating the steak of a lifetime. Simply amazing. $$$

Thai Me Up (E4) ul. Foksal 16, thaimeup.pl Taking the spot once occupied by Papaya, Thai Me Up offers up a far more informal experience than the former, something understood by one glance at the interior: gone are the gloss finishes of yesteryear, replaced by something far more casual, fun and cluttered (check the monkey lights!). As for the food, that succeeds in bringing the fresh, snappy tastes of Asia to Foksal. $$

Salto (C6) ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8771, saltorestauracja.pl When Martin Gimenez Castro scooped top prize in the Top Chef program it simply confirmed what foodies had known for years: that this is a man of some talent. Now leading the kitchen in Salto, the highlight of Castro’s menu is undoubtedly the ‘steak weekends’. We challenge you to find better. During the week

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thai

Thai Thai (C2) Pl. Teatralny 3, tel. 601 818 283, thaithai.pl In terms of design it’s little short of perfect: gold vaulted interiors lend a muted glow to a largely black on black space while serene looking Buddha’s peer on the diners below.

As for the food, that’s one big success story with plenty of lively flavors and dynamic colors. The Tom Yang Kung, a deeply nourishing fish broth that awakens the senses with a sharp, spicy jolt, is a must! $$ Thaisty (C2) Pl. Bankowy 4, tel. 730 000 024, thaisty. pl The coup here has been the recruitment

of Chanunkan Duangkumma, Warsaw’s favorite Thai chef. The menu has street food inspirations and also includes several recipes passed down Duangkumma’s family line: consider the BBQ beef skewers essential.

Vivid colors and a busy open kitchen lend the place a happy buzz that lasts through the day. $$

Why Thai (E5) ul. Wiejska 13, tel. 22 625 7698, whythai. pl A calming, almost holistic interior sets the tone for a meal dominated by the rich and aromatic tastes of Thailand. For a lively, spicy start begin with a mango and cashew salad, before moving forward and onto their celebrated curries. Imported chefs keep the flavors authentic, with the pad Thai being something of a house favorite. $ Wi-Taj (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 4 Despite the name, it’s actually the cuisine of Vietnam that is the dominant entity in this restaurant. There is the odd moment of madness, but in general Wi-Taj does a grand job of representing a kitchen that hasn’t always enjoyed the greatest publicity in Warsaw. The crunchy, perky nem are a fine way to start, but it’s the steaming bowls of pho that have this Insider promising to return. As for prices, these rarely climb north ofzł. 30. $$

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ORGANIC AND VEGAN WINES LIVE MUSIC

EVENTS

Ristorante & Cocktail Bar Si - Marszałkowska 115, Bank Square, Warsaw, phone: +48 507 099 190 e-mail: kontakt@restauracjasi.pl. For more info go to facebook.com/ RestauracjaSi

cafes & wine bars NEW & NOTABLE

CAFE & LOUNGE BAR BUT GOOD MUSIC FIRST (ul. Rydygiera 13) Looking back, it’s been a pretty static year where the cafe scene is concerned. But away from the depressingly familiar sight of a new Starbucks or Costa, there have been some glimmers of hope: the impossibly long name aside, noteworthy features of this suburban star number a stunning David Bowie mural by the street artist Skuha, and an interior composed of raw concrete finishes and beautiful lighting. A great place for a working afternoon, it helps that the F&B offer is also on point: the banana/ginger smoothie is essential.

cafés Blikle (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 35, blikle.pl There’s a cultured, pre-war look to Blikle, a proud cafe with a 100-year history. Famous former clients include Charles de Gaulle who swore by their donuts.

Bubbleology (D4) ul. Chmielna 26, bubbleology.pl Looking like a 26th century version of Willy Wonka’s factory (psychedelic colors, Japanese lettering, and doors marked Top Secret), this place is no ordinary café. But that’s down to the drinks, rather than the décor. Warsaw’s original bubble tea stop offers an arsenal of fruit flavors concocted by zany-looking lab-coated staff.

Bułkę przez Bibułkę ul. Puławska 24 & ul. Zgoda 3, tel. 794 000 634, bulkeprzezbibulke.pl There’s a feminine style to this cafe, what with its cute, girly pastels, petite plant pots and woodsy finishes. But no matter what your gender or age, there’s something immediately sunny and positive about this place. Slow food sandwiches arrive on wooden boards, there’s pretty homemade desserts and a careful choice of wine: falling in love with it is easy.

Być Może (E7) ul. Bagatela 14, tel. 519 000 014, bycmoze. com.pl It’s all about artisan bread and breakfast in the industrial looking Być Może. It’s taken the concept of Charlotte (groan, there’s even a communal table), and improved it with excellent breads and a crowd that’s a little less pleased with itself and a little more normal.

ODKUPIENIE WIN (Pl. Niemena 1, odkupieniewin.pl) Warsaw’s growing and so too its thirst for wine. Found in a new housing development just beyond Powązki, Odkupienie Win functions as both as a wine store and bar.

There’s nothing about the interiors you haven’t seen before (concrete, glass and Edison bulbs), and while it will never compete with the nearby Mielżyński there’s a nice intimacy here that makes it a convenient location for those in its direct catchment area.

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Cophi (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60 Deviating away from ‘the Warsaw look’ (i.e. concrete, pipes, etc.), Cophi is the kind of place you actually want to stay in: homey and intimate but at the same time light and modern. You can sense the thought and passion behind this operation from the staff – find them using Aeropress, Chemex, siphon and drip methods with almost scientific precision in their quest to serve you what some are already claiming to be Warsaw’s best coffee.

listings / cafés & wine bars Kafka Café (E3) ul. Oboźna 3, kawiarnia-kafka.pl A chessboard floor and a collection of antlers on the wall characterize Kafka, a bookstore / café whose literary collection is composed of paperbacks rescued from recycling plants.

Books are purchased by their weight (zł. 10 per kilo) while the menu includes pancakes, pastas and even doggy treats for your mutt.

Kos (D4) ul. Chmielna 9A Kos is a place intent on stitching the neighborhood together. That much is made clear by a diverse events calendar that features a panoply of activities: yoga courses to weekend brunches via the occasional kid’s improvisation class. As commendable as these social actions are, it’s the basics that Kos do so well. Drenched in natural sunlight, perch on the windowsill and enjoy swift wifi, award-winning coffee and a menu of homemade snacks and bits. Find it inside the Jewish Community Center.

Ministerstwo Kawy (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 27 Sourcing their coffee from Koppi, an internationally acclaimed Swedish roasting house, the ministry takes no short cuts in their pursuit of excellence.

Utilizing Ethiopian, Costa Rican and Brazilian arabicas – some exclusive to Poland – barista Wojciech Rzytki has earned a reputation across Poland for his expert hand.

MiTo (D6) ul. Waryńskiego 28, mito.art.pl Café,

gallery, bookstore. Of course, we’ve seen that concept before, just not done in this style. Stark white backgrounds are offset by edgy art, lending the place a Tate Modern feel, something accentuated by the earnest fashion students who gather through the day.

And there’s the toilet, a futuristic affair with piped music and a mirrored wall.

Monsieur Leon (E8) ul. Sulkiewicza 5 Found resting on the corner of a quiet residential street, Monsieur Leon is surely one of Mokotów’s best kept secrets.

Here, simplicity is the name of the game, with a brief blackboard menu that involves cheese boards, salads and a hefty croque monsieur.

With wine tipping down and conversation wafting around this compact, casual space, it doesn’t take a giant leap of imagination to think yourself in France.

Niezłe Ziółko Café & Deli (D5) ul. Krucza 17 A shrine to pure and healthy eating, this friendly café doesn’t just brew a great coffee, but bakes its own bread and produces its own yogurt. Sit in the loft to look down on shoppers scurrying to Mokotowska, and on the way out, check out ‘Grandma’s Cupboard’ in the corner: jams, spreads and olive oils are there to buy for home.

Odette Tearoom (C4) ul. Twarda 4, odette.pl If you thought those living in Warsaw’s swankiest residential tower – the Cosmopolitan – had it tough, then you’ve got one more reason to envy them:

the ground floor Odette Tearoom. Taking its lead from their original dessert stop on ul.

Górskiego, the sister venue peddles glorious cakes and pralines as well as a hand-picked selection of boutique teas served in a fragrant and elegant atmosphere.

Przystanek Powiśle (E3) ul. Browarna 6 Of the many things to like about Przystanek, it’s probably the desserts that swing it: homemade cakes and flans that cause all life to pause. Perfectly poised overlooking Park Kazimierzowski, it’s a popular spot to explore their small range of niche beers and wine. Outside of night time hours, many sing the praises of their creative range of tapas and snacks.

Relaks (E9) ul. Puławska 48 Generally travelling by tram for a cup of Joe sounds excessive, but that’s exactly what you’ll be doing on discovering Relaks. Expertly prepared, right down to the foam art, the baristas here use the finest imported machines and work only with fair trade, ‘specialty’ coffee. If you have time, the drip coffees are more than worth the wait.

The interiors supply a retro accent, and are lapped up by a very fashion aware crowd.

Resort (C2) ul. Bielańska 1 The main talking point here is a design that utilizes shopping trollies and street signs to serve as chairs and tables, and a pile of second-hand books to form the bar – there’s even a sofa constructed from a bathtub! Themes of recycling are taken to the limit in Resort, yet for all that it never looks junky or cheap.

wine bars

Life Is Too Short For Bad Coffee!

Ale Wino! (E5) ul. Mokotowska 48, alewino.pl At first you think you’re walking into a car park. And then, it hits you – a beautiful inner-city sanctum with wooden decking, a slanted sail shielding the sun, and bespoke, funky chairs from the esteemed Studio Rygalik. You want to dwell here for a bit longer than planned: and there’s no harm in doing so. One of the Insider’s favorite wine bars, Ale Wino’s food is also top-notch

Bristol Wine Bar (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmiescie 42/44 Effortlessly evoking a real sense of history, the design is a triumph with lots of polished www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / cafés & wine bars brass and nickel, rich wood finishes and marble floors. You feel like you’ve stepped into a film. And the wine choice is prodigious: offering a complete cruise through the wines of the Old Continent and the New World, the collection is precisely presented from behind glass cases that line the walls.

Charlotte (D6) ul. Aleja Wyzwolenia 18 (enter from pl. Zbawiciela), bistrocharlotte.com It matters not if you’re easily traumatized by the catwalk parade that is Charlotte. Open from seven on weekdays, it’s the place for a morning croissant. And if you’re armed with the latest Apple technology, all the better – join the other posers at the communal table.

Dekant Wine Bar (E3) ul. Zajęcza 15, dekant.com.pl Set inside an attractive open space, the opening of Dekant is a further indication of Powiśle’s shift from hipster epicenter to upscale playground (Robert Lewandowski has been spotted here!). The list comprises over 400 wines from the most prestigious producers in the world, right the way down to tiny, little vineyards you’ve probably never heard of. If the sun is out, aim for a place on their back terrace.

Dyletanci (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44, dyletanci.pl Often filled to capacity with crisp, modern citizens that radiate confidence, join them on green banquettes illuminated with Tom Dixon

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lamps. The wine list is fitting of the A-list, and aside from exceptional international choices, also includes interesting wines from the proprietor’s own label – a frankly superb Polish brand called Dom Bliskowice.

Mielzynski Wine Bar (G9) ul. Czerska 12, mielzynski.pl After three years in the pipeline Warsaw’s second outpost of Mielżyński is everything you’d expect: the concise menu is never too complex while the exciting wine choice presents over 500 labels. This vibrant warehouse-style space promises much.

Enoteka (D1) Rynek Nowego Miasta 13/15, enotekapolska.pl It’s the wine bar New Town has been waiting for ever since… the old Enoteka closed. The eagerly awaited return brings with it a new location – right on the corner of New Town Square and a wine list from curated by importer Maciej Bomboł.

Wine Taste by Kamecki (C4) ul. Twarda 2/4, winetaste.pl Run by Piotr Kamecki, President of the Polish Association of Sommeliers, this beautiful glass-fronted unit functions both as a wine bar and store offering expert advice, cellar design and tastings.

Hoża (D5) ul. Hoża 25a, hoza.warszawa.pl You’ll probably know Hoża as the home of steak. But what is meat without wine? complementing the Argentine-inspired cooking is a wine list particularly dense with reds.

Winosfera (B3) ul. Chłodna 31, winosfera.pl Once a pre-war cinema, now a stunning wine bar / store with one of the most impressive collections in Poland: an expense account comes in handy.

Equally notable is the ambitious fine dining menu of Jakub Adamczyk.

Mielżyński Wine Bar (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, mielzynski.pl Robert Mielżyński, a Canadian-born oenologist, awakened Warsaw’s love affair with the grape when he launched Mielżyński in 2004, and it continues to serve as the accepted benchmark to which all wine bars aspire.

Their cause is amply boosted by a fine selection of bites to accompany the superlative wine offer. Find it in a pared down warehouse that emanates casual city cool.

Żurawina (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34, zurawina.eu Lacking in intimacy, this large white room gets criticized for its jarring artwork and staffing blips – in the world of wine it’s important the customer can connect to the staff: here, we felt like we were joining the SS. But both food and wine score highly, and they’ve earned a staunchly loyal following that includes high flying types and Paris Hilton wannabes that carry yappy dogs in their bag.

The award-winning Enoteka Polska is back, this time with a new location in the heart of Warsaw’s historic New Town.

A perfect combo of restaurant, wine bar and wine store, aside from offering excellent Italian cuisine, we are a renowned importer with a portfolio of prestigious wine labels from across Europe. Our direct import policy allows guests to enjoy outstanding value for money.

Rynek Nowego

Miasta 13/15, enotekapolska.pl

tel. 882 048 012

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nightlife NEW & NOTABLE

CENTRAL BAR (ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki)) Downers include annoying piped music, chairs bolted to the ground and the overriding feeling you are, in fact, drinking in the middle of a food court. Only once you get your head around all of that can you start appreciating the Central Bar: the beer (supplied by Bierhalle) is fine, and you do get the buzzy sense that you’re in the middle of something that’s captured Warsaw’s imagination. As a post-shopping meeting point it’s better than all that have come before.

bars & pubs The Alchemist (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 3, thealchemist.pl How about this then: a tap bar that skips the problem of people bugging the bar staff with stupid questions with a self-service ‘beer wall’ that relies on pre-paid plastic cards as a form of payment. As for the choice, it’s not crazy-radical, but it is interesting enough with plenty of decent sips that all drinkers can understand. There’s more to like about this particular Alchemist: long and narrow, the design is modern yet full of little details and eccentricities – it feels edgy enough for pre-club drinks, smart enough for business lunch and comfortable enough for all those times in between. And they do a very good ‘posh fish & chips’!

Beirut (D5) ul. Poznańska 12As hip as ever, Beirut has walls dusted with cult album covers, documentary posters and witty graffiti inspired

by Banksy. Busy in the day, and absolutely packed at night, order unconventional beers from androgynous staff standing behind a sandbag bar decorated with silver hand grenades and a model tank.

Bohemia (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, bohemiarestaurant.pl As welcome as the global beer reformation has been, it has had its drawbacks: namely, the number of snobs and zealots found leering over pineapple stouts and impossible IPAs. Sometimes you just want a normal bar with good, clean lager. Bohemia is that place. This is a Czech bar for modern times: stylish interiors of glass and wood and a so-called ‘tank system’ that maintains the beer’s freshness. Try the ‘Mliko’, a full pint of creamy foam that can be sunk in a swig.

RITUAL (ul. Mazowiecka 12, ritualwarsaw.com) High on good looks and selfconfidence, Ritual is the kind of bar / club crossover that modern Warsaw can’t do without. Catapulting Mazowiecka back into the spotlight, Ritual’s door selection is cut-throat and ensures only the cream of the capital make it through the door. With entry bagged, enjoy beautiful cocktail creations and a program of live music that ranges from jazz and rock to more clubby sounds at the weekend.

Bollywood Lounge (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, bollywoodlounge.pl Now on Nowy Świat, the team have used the opportunity to upgrade their offer: gone is that low-rent feel of old, replaced in favor of a more classy look and a slicker crowd.

What has remained constant is the energy.

Ace cocktails (recommended: Jim Ban Chili), tottering talent and a range of sheesha pipes make it a weekend must, though the big news is the completion of their downstairs www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / nightlife club: check it out for the bright, banging beats of the Bollywood sound.

Elephant Belgian Pub (C1) ul. Freta 19 Signposted by a jolly, dancing elephant, this Belgian pub presents its cause the moment you enter – there’s twenty or so taps laid right out in front, and to the left a fridge that’s expected to top out to cover 200 beers. The design is basic – brickwork, beer kegs and varying ephemera of the brewing trade – but it doesn’t need that much more: it’s about the beer, after all.

Hard Rock Cafe (C5) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), hardrockcafe.pl Full Throttle cocktails, lively staff and a classic rock soundtrack: the energy of HRC is hard to find fault with. And on the rare occasion there is a lull in the night, use the opportunity to sniff around memorabilia that includes a black leather number once worn by Madonna.

in summer, it feels like one big street party.

Adding to the gentle sense of confusion comes the realization that so many bars look the same – accessed through clattery, barred doors, visitors walk into what can only be described as murk. Klaps, with its dildo beer taps and phallic walls, is probably the most well-known of the lot.

Karmnik (D2) ul. Piwna 4A, karmnik.waw.pl Close to sinking into dive bar territory, Karmnik have rejigged their interior, added a list of flashy cocktails and recruited a few DJs to give the place a pre-club spirit. As revamps go it’s been entirely successful, with the only sticking point (sometimes literally), being the unisex toilet. The origami birds hanging from the ceiling, btw, are a reference to the post-war period when an old lady who fed the pigeons took-up brief residence in the ruins of where you now drink.

Solec 44 (F3) ul. Solec 44, solec.waw.pl A ghastly commie-era pavilion is the unlikely home of this Powiśle mainstay. The food – a gloriously gory celebration of nose-to-tail cooking – is spot on, but so too are the drinks. The bottled beers reflect the exciting times in the Polish brewing industry, but forego these in favor of a stunning cocktail list that makes use of seasonal ingredients and homemade syrups and mixes. The design of Julian Karewicz, these are drinks that stop you in your tracks: the sea buckthorn vodka sour is pure boozy bliss.

Kraken Rum Bar (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, fb.com/KrakenRumBar Named after one of the ocean’s most feared mythical creatures (the scary squid from Pirates of the Caribbean), the wood-clad Kraken features a wall of cymbals, heavy furniture and some interesting photography.

While there’s some decent bottles of rum, there’s perhaps not enough to justify calling it a rum bar. The house beer rocks though.

Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, legendsbar.pl Legends is slowly achieving legendary status amongst the expats and Anglophiles. Their cause is helped by touches like a segregated smoking room, proper darts board, Sky Sports and a traditional menu that’s as authentically English as the Downing Street cat. Presiding over it all is Graham, a seasoned expat and Everton nut.

10% discount* WI/XII-II

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Między Nami (D4) ul. Bracka 20, miedzynamicafe.com With 18 years of service under their belt you may think of Między Nami as being an antiquated has-been. Not so. Haunted by a mix of media types and local characters, this hip white piece of post-commie Warsaw has an enduring, almost timeless appeal.

Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’ (D4) Enter from ul. Nowy Świat 26 Approximately twenty bars occupy a series of low-budget prefabricated cabins, presenting possibly the highest density of bars in the capital:

Stixx (A4) Pl. Europejski 4A, tel. 22 340 4040, stixx. pl It takes a moment to allow the sheer magnitude of Stixx sink in. Having adjusted to the wow factor of the interior – which can best be described as cosmopolitan-industrial – most retreat to the long, all weather deck which in itself is quite something: the aesthetics are such that a cocktail party on an oligarch’s yacht comes to mind. There aren’t many better places for a drink when the roof is rolled back and the stars twinkle down.

clubs Luztro (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, luztro.pl Feeling naughty?

Luztro enjoys a reputation for libertine behavior and illicit pharmaceuticals. Dark, grim and grotty, this after party stalwart gets going at about 4 a.m. on weekends, when troglodyte club creatures emerge zombie-like to dance way past sunrise. Jaw grinding, rib rattling electro has never felt better.

No Comment (F4) Al. 3 Maja 16/18A, Most Poniatowskiego Found in one of the towers that prop up Most Poniatowskiego, a ‘sense of unknown’

listings / nightlife manifests itself inside this weekend’s only club, a bi-level area whose small size adds to the air of mystery and exclusivity. Away from the prying eyes of Joe Public, find glittery, local celebs getting down and naughty.

Nowa Jerozolima (D5) Al. Jerozolimskie 57 Once serving as a children’s hospital (and allegedly haunted to high heavens by the screams of its former patients), this tenement has been repurposed as a multi-floored club that feels dank and squalid. The belly of the beast is a main room that rattles with domestic and international electro acts lapped up by a crowd that’s already lost its marbles by 11 p.m.

Sen Pszczoły ul. Grochowska 301/305, senpszczoly.pl Famous, infamous or a bit of both? Moving from their temporary digs in the Koneser Factory, the new-look Sen Pszczoły is every bit as murky as the previous: amid a heavy industrial background, find partygoers enjoying a mixed bag of events that range from didgeridoo performances to full-on techno that makes fillings pop out.

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Bar & Books (D2) REFRESHINGLY CIVILIZED LACES TO MEET ul. PWąski Dunaj 20, barandbooks.pl Seen CIGARS & WHISKY through ≈a thin autumnal mist, this white WINE & CHAMPAGNE townhouse radiates warmth: lights glimmer, ≈ COCKTAILS & CUSINE piano music tinkles. Wood-paneled and lined ≈ TASTINGS with leather-bound tomes, there’s a sense ≈ PRIVATE EVENTS of dignity ≈ that’s unique to Warsaw’s cocktail LOCATION SHOOTS scene.

There’s humor, as well, courtesy of PODWALE BARof ANDchimps BOOKS portraits togged out like 18th Wąski Dunaj 20, 00-256 Warsaw Tel.: +48 gentry.

225.599.199 century Similar to a members’ only Mayfair bar, find ‘classic with a twist’ cocktails mixed and muddled by the sort of charming bartenders you’d trust serving Bond. While bills can become weighty affairs, no one regrets the spend – plus, you can smoke here as well!

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Column Bar (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44 V O L i n Y a P (Hotel Bristol) Just the look of Column Bar www.barandbooks.pl sweeps you off your feet; there’s something breathlessly classy about it, like you’ve just entered Gatsby’s ballroom. You want to order a pyramid of champagne and dance on their piano. Behave, and order a cocktail instead.

For a taste of the classics, the Column Bar is pretty peerless. n

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The View (C4) ul. Twarda 18, theview.pl Sat on top of the Spektrum Tower this bar/club has reinvented the whole concept of going out in Warsaw.

A truly world-class venture, the open-air deck on the 32nd floor offers striking views of the cityscape, first rate cocktails and an international rotation of DJs. No other club nails the champagne lifestyle with quite the same panache.

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Fokim (D5) ul. Krucza 24/26 To like is an edgy interior

that includes a neon that urges customers to ‘eat, drink, dance, riot’ and an Asian-inspired drinks list that features sake on-tap, shots with names like Karate Kid, and cocktails with proper verve: e.g., the Marry Me, a bonkers, bastardized version of the Bloody Mary that’s actually better than the real thing.

Jabeerwocky Junior ul. Nowogrodzka 12 After a brief summer break Jabeerwocky Junior has reopened… as a cider bar! While the portfolio is still in the process of being finalized, the idea is to carry a couple of tap offerings alongside a bottled collection of Polish and international ciders.

Of the domestic brands, Kwaśne Jabłko deserves to become a household name.

Enjoy it inside an intimate brick room that feels suitably atmospheric.

Karowa 31 (D3) ul. Karowa 31, warsawbarproject.com Warsaw’s original speakeasy grants access via a retractable door disguised as a VHS collection – how cool is that!? Maze-like in layout, the retro-looking Karowa 31 unravels to reveal a series of chambers concealed in shadow, though for all that the cocktails are the real draw: masterful creations composed by a dreadlocked Dane called Bram.

Kita Koguta (E5) ul. Krucza 6/14 Free from the pompous prattery of Bar Max down the road, there are times in Kita Koguta where sitting at bar

cocktails 6 Cocktails (E5) ul. Mokotowska 57 Taking its lead from the New York fad for covert bars, the 6 adventure begins in front of a heavy arched gate. Ring the bell, await the buzz of approval and then find yourself summoned into a rambling apartment that feels sultry and sensual.

Complete with a shadowy smoking lounge and a whirlpool tub in the bathroom, it’s the best secret in Warsaw. To enjoy the bespoke cocktails yourself, message them on Facebook and await your invite…

www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / nightlife level is like watching Dexter’s Laboratory: the staff aren’t afraid to get imaginative, and that includes serving cocktails in smoking coconut husks. Not all the experiments go as planned: on our last visit, a basic Bloody Mary was turned into an alcoholic carrot flavored fizz.

the cocktail front. Order from an iPad menu, before settling back for cocktails made using mad scientist, molecular techniques that involve foam, vapor, beakers and other things you’d usually find in Professor Yaffle’s lab.

Certainly not as ‘mature’ as the new breed of cocktail bars, but definitely more fun.

Lazy Dog (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, lazy-dog.pl For the cocktail bar, visit a small side room that’s attractively decorated with lots of copper fittings, hanging filament bulbs and high-quality bottles.

The cocktails number around ten house specialties with names like Long Island Nice Tea and Have You Been A Good Girl.

The Roots (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 11 Like the food and beer sector before it, Warsaw’s cocktail scene has been ripped and reinvented by the artisan movement. With a riveting cocktail list that demonstrates the full scope of the staff’s talent, The Roots is the latest in a string of bars to adapt to the times. Sip up inside a delicious interior furnished with glistening collectibles that tell the story behind the arcane craft of mixology.

Między Ustami (D6) ul. Mokotowska 33/35 With the celebrated Hendrick’s gin so prominently pimped, it makes sense that the quirky design of Między Ustami is more in line with a Victorian apothecary than anything else. Peculiarities particular to this era are abundant (nonsensical wall paintings featuring fairies and fantastical creatures) and are matched against deep forest colors and copious wood and leather. It’s Lewis Carrol meets Phileas Fogg, with suitably creative cocktails to boot.

Palmier (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12 Here, class and high times are in abundance inside an interior that’s all cool stone and pot palms. But it’s the narrow terrace that promises to be the place to be seen: join and enjoy the ‘Warsaw scene’ alongside a crowd that’s been compared to a Ralph Lauren billboard (even Robert Lewandowski has been spied here!).

Panorama Sky Bar (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, panoramabar.pl The Marriott’s 40th floor Panorama has had a couple of incarnations: first, as a glitzy Dynasty throwback, and then, more recently, as something that could have passed for a business class airport lounge. Now it’s been reinvented once again, only this time successfully: find slick, vibrant interiors redolent of London matched up with modern cocktails and twinkling views.

Pies Czy Suka (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8A, piesczysuka.com Monochrome gun metal grey colors are offset by a young crowd attired in red shoes, pink trousers and blue headphones. This clean, concrete space is speckled with plaster moldings of reindeer heads, and excels on

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Varso Vie (D6) Pl. Konstytcuji 2, varso-vie.pl A cool bar / restaurant decorated with art that’s both sensual and suggestive. Behind the bar, homemade syrups, seasonal ingredients and high caliber alcohol are all present, but so to the most important component: the staff who can handle them. Try the Polish Colada: involving Bols Natural Yogurt, Pawlina vodka, pineapple, lemon and sprinkling of chocolate, it’s a superb drink that does a grand job of rehabilitating a largely derided classic.

Weles (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 11, welesbar.pl A swing of the door takes visitors plunging down a blacked-out stairwell and into a basement that emerges from the darkness like a decadent Tsarist relic: glinting chandeliers glimmer over deep leather sofas, their subtle light casting a glow over an immaculate clientele. Befitting the venue, the artisanal cocktails are a work of elaborate craftsmanship, and incorporate everything from elite liquors to strips of bacon and flower petals.

At weekends this place rocks when DJ Trent gets onto the decks.

Woda Ognista (E5) ul. Wilcza 8, wodaognista.com Woda Ognista evokes the jazzy air of a Chicago, Prohibition era speakeasy with a seriously stylish interior that includes a colossal collection of vintage cocktail shakers that glint behind glass. The drinks themselves, rattled up by dapper gents in braces and flat caps, are split between house creations and reprised classics from a bygone era. Some are more successful than others, and it’s a credit to the

staff that they’re willing to take comments on board and adapt their precious recipes to suit fussy tastes.

craft beer Artezan Pub (D4) ul. Moniuszki 1A Occupying the ground floor of an office block, it lacks the worn-in, boozed-out look of its rivals, though the bright design feels like a breath of fresh air.

Unmistakably though, it’s the beer that’s the magnetic force, with eight taps blasting out pacesetter tipples from the Artezan brewery such as Pacific and Białe IPA. BrewDog Warszawa (D4) ul. Widok 8 First things first: BrewDog’s beers begin at zł. 17. On learning this there are some who scatter, others who scoff, but the let’s get the facts straight – you’re unlikely to find a cheaper pint of BrewDog in the world!

Hailed as one of the top artisan breweries on the planet, quality is the name of the game here: this is a place where the interiors rock and the beers go BOSH. No pub will do a better job this year.

Chmielarnia (B5) ul. Twarda 42 (basement level), chmielarnia. waw.pl A subterranean multi-tap found in the depths of the fishing institute. Artisan beers rule the roost here (there’s 15 taps and stacks more beer in the fridge), a point underlined by a glass coffin of mainstream macro lager.

While the bar gets loud and rackety, sweaty and sticky, that’s balanced out by a rotating beer offer that’s moderately priced plus a friendly, earnest audience that’s all beer geeks and know-it-alls.

Chmielarnia Marszałkowska (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16, chmielarnia.waw. pl With Warsaw’s tap bars all falling over each other to stock the latest tap beers, your options are frequently similar from bar to bar – which is when a good fridge becomes important. Not only can you actually see into Chmielarnia’s, you’ll find it housing the most exciting brews trending around the globe: from the edgy Bermondsey breweries to the Scandinavian giants. Broaden your horizons!

Cuda Na Kiju (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, cudanakiju.pl Where it all began. Summer catches Warsaw’s original tap bar at its best, with the courtyard of the former Communist Party HQ now home to an

listings / nightlife entirely different kind of party: on occasions find food trucks and film screenings, and all other times just a massive crowd getting sloshed on 15 types of tap beer. But even outside the sweaty months Cuda is worth the visit: drink inside a modern, glass cube that’s refreshing contemporary.

Cześć (C3) ul. Grzybowska 2, czesc.waw.pl It started as a café, but now Cześć is better known as being at the forefront of the new generation of ‘quali-tap’ bars – small little places with six or so beers on tap. The two owners, Piot and Kuba, take their beer seriously, so do expect plenty of new finds as well as traditional favorites from stalwarts like the Artezan and Pinta breweries.

Jabeerwocky (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 12, taproom.pl Even in an area bulging with bars, Jabeerwocky has become a point of pilgrimage for beer aficionados. If the creative line-up of guerrilla breweries wasn’t enough, then there’s the

management’s readiness to roll their sleeves up and even brew their own beer. Add to that an atmosphere of general hubbub and you have our favorite tap bar of all time!

Kufle i Kapsle (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 25, kufleikapsle.pl All levels of drinkers are catered for in this raw-looking space, from those ready to pay nosebleed prices for beers with spaceships on the label, right the way down to novices taking their first baby steps in the world of craft booze. Interiors are balanced with the pre-war heritage of the place, and are thick with noise, clamor and the spell of spillage.

Unisex toilets, meaning there’s usually one idiotka putting a spanner in the queue code.

for gentlemen Playhouse (B3) Al. Solidarności 82A, playhouse.pl Not here gorilla gangsters on the door or pushy girls doing the rounds (“buy me drinky drinky”).

Instead, Playhouse models itself on the top class mega clubs such as Spearmint Rhino, and the result is a subterranean space removed from the sleaze and murk usually associated with the industry. But you want to know what the girls are like, yeah? Let the fact askmen.com voted it their favorite strip in the world speak for itself.

live music Pardon To Tu (C4) Pl. Grzybowski 12/16, pardontotu.pl Decorated in voluptuous brothel colors, the design involves mismatched seats, tilted lampshades and a relaxed arthouse look popular with creatives and other fringe dwellers. The live talent ranges from moody quartets to jazzy chanteuses, while a perfect marriage of late hours and great bottled beers helps along the enthusiastic crowd of latter day beatniks. Now featuring a new, separate side room that’s way more chilled out.

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shopping accessories Agent Provocateur ul. Mokotowska 59, tel. 22 273 6162, agentprovocateur.com The boutique is stocked full of the latest collection – gorgeous lacy bras with scrumptious attention to detail, matching panties, teddies and a bunch of strappy get-ups you can only get away with if you’re very fit or very confident, but preferably both.

And if that’s not enough, they’ve got sexy stockings, silk robes, perfume, satin gloves, a blindfold and nipple tassels…

FAIRS & MARKETS CHRISTMAS MARKET (various events @ Dom Towarowy Bracia Jabłkowscy, ul. Bracka 25) Throughout the month find the numerous floors of this building given over to dozens upon dozens of stalls trading in gifts both great and small. Heaven for browsers, the wide-reaching offer runs from books and art to clothing and design pieces. It’s impossible to come away empty-handed.

TARGI RZECY LADNYCH (3-4 Dec @ Pl. Małachowskiego) Specializing in ‘beautiful objects’, this market lives up to the hyperbole with fantastic pieces from on-the-rise brands and designers. Furniture, poster art, textiles, ceramics, books and toys: this has the lot. Open from 11 a.m. Till 7 p.m.

ORIENTAL CHRISTMAS BAZAAR (10 Dec @ Museum of Asia & Pacific, ul. Solec 24) Running from 11 a.m. until 8 p.m. over 40 exhibitors are expected to present an offer ranging from costumes and cosmetics to accessories and artwork. If last year is anything to go by, this diverse event will see stalls hawking goods from India, Indonesia, Japan, China and umpteen countries ending with ‘stan’.

SLOW WEEKEND (10-11 Dec @ Soho Factory, ul. Mińska 25) For the sixth year running the effortlessly cool Soho Factory will host up to 350 traders dealing in jewelry, cosmetics, clothing and other lifestyle / design oriented essentials.

For further details, see: slowweekend.pl MUSTACHE YARD SALE (pictured) (17-18 Dec @ PKiN, Pl. Defilad 1) Poland’s most talked about yard sale brings together a battalion of independent designers, traders and artists making it the ultimate last minute stocking filler for the more creativeminded. Hugely popular, and rightly so. For details, see: mustache.pl

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Bath & Body Works ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy) & ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów)The famed American brand signals its arrival to Europe with the launch of their Warsaw branch. Now fans of the brand can experience first-hand luxurious fragrant body care, hand and home collections.

Customers can discover sophisticated fragrances, test shower gels and soaps at the sink area, and try everything from body lotions to home fragrances.

BeautyLab Polska beautylablondon.pro Rated as one of the biggest names in global cosmetics, the range of treatments run from anti-ageing to daily body care and essential skin care.

Bursztynek Rynek Starego Miasta 4/6, bursztynek.co The largest amber jewellery store in Warsaw, though in addition to that visitors can also purchase unique amber-related souvenirs as well as more classic gifts associated with Poland.

Chiara (Saska Kępa) Promenada Shopping Centre, ul. Ostrobramska 75C, chiara-online.pl You’d never expect it but this chic little shop stocks the best shoes and bags in the city – stock up on the latest collections from Michael Kors, Celine, Stuart Weitzman, Ralph Lauren and Mulberry.

Glamstore ul. Narbutta 83 (entry from ul. Łowicka) Widely hailed by Poland’s fashion glossies, this store sells modern furnishings with all

listings / shopping the trimmings and colours you could ask for. They also stock kitchen and bathroom accessories, as well as touting their own jewelery line.

Hard Rock Cafe ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), hardrockcafe.pl No wardrobe is complete without the iconic Hard Rock t-shirt! Find the Warsaw-stamped version available here, along with other extras for the all American look.

HOS&me ul. Mokotowska 63, mokotowska63.com Luxury jewelry and the best in the biz. In stock: high end treasures from Nialaya, Lene Bjerre Design, Ti Sento, Christensen and Dryberg/Kern.

Impossible Project ul. Mysia 3 The Polaroid comes back to life in Impossible Project, a place with refurbished original cameras as well as new film formula.

Lilou ul. Mokotowska 63, lilou.pl Modular jewelry made simple, and a must for all Warsaw fashionista.

Malton & Kielman ul. Chmielna 6, maltonkielman.com This leather workshop and store has a history dating from the 19th century and prides itself on luxury bespoke bags, shoes and accessories whose style is influenced by the classical British and Italian look.

Minty Dot ul. Bracka 5, mintydot.pl Top quality Polish jewelry composed using gold, silver and natural stone. Contemporary in style, these are accessories that radiate class and craftsmanship while at the same time exuding a subtle sense of timeless romance.

Mo61 ul. Mokotowska 61, tel. 601 652 593, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, mo61.pl Billed as a ‘perfume laboratory’, Mo61 is the only place in Poland that allows customers to create their own scents. Under the expert guidance of staff trained by Zygmunt Marczewski (“the best nose in Poland”!), visitors compose their own perfumes inside a beautifully renovated pre-war space.

Pingle Optyk ul. Hoża 40 A collection of hand-selected eyewear that is serious in terms of quality

control, but entirely whimsical when it comes to design. Yes, you’ve got your ubiquitous Ray Ban classics, but you’ve also got the electric blue version. You’ve got your Chanel and YSL classics, then there are the leathertrimmed frames from Paul Smith and many more funky models straight from Paris.

Schubert ul. Piwna 12/14, ul. Piwna 26, ul. Świętojańska 11, worldofamber.pl Rings, bracelets, necklaces and watches produced using the finest Baltic amber. Or for a unique gift, how about an amber chess set or an amber cigarette lighter?

Stara Mydlarnia Various locations inc. ul. Chmielna 4, mydla. pl Handmade cosmetics such as fragrant soaps, bath gels and salts, body butters, massage oils and aromatic candles. Ideal for home pampering.

Time To... Design Shop ul. Poznańska 7, timeto.com.pl Discoveries include quirky, spiky bags from MadPax, Haribo jewelry adorned with Gummy Bears and animal print mugs from Pikczersy. Above all though, the place is about timepieces, namely highly individualistic works from the S.T.A.M.P.S brand: averaging around zł. 100, this is as affordable as talking points get.

books Atticus ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 12, atticus. pl You can smell the history in this old curiosity shop; set just a few meters from the gates of the university, this antiquarian bookstore has a rich stock of dusty tomes piled higgledy-piggledy on towering shelves.

Although Polish is the dominant language, English-language texts are also present and procurable in this hoarder’s heaven.

Books For Cooks ul. Inżynerski 1, booksforcooks.pl Just guess what the specialty here is? And if the Praga address deters you, then click to their web to find a hefty offer of original language cook books, memoirs, restaurant guides and assorted foodie must-haves.

Czuły Barbarzyńca ul. Piwna 20/26, czuly.pl A cafe / bookstore hybrid that you’d imagine doing well in Paris.

The Polish-language choice is broad, and whilst the number of English-language could

be extended everyone finds the atmosphere irresistible.

Fundacja Bęc Zmiana ul. Mokotowska 65/7, beczmiana.pl A small curiosity shop selling trendy trinkets and a fair amount of art and architecture books with an accent on modern Warsaw.

Księgarnia Bullerbyn ul. Chmielna 10, bullerbyn.com.pl A supremely cheerful bookstore peddling everything from pop-up books and fairytales to history and legends. The ace up their sleeve is a sizeable selection of English-language literature: and that includes The Gruffalo!

Radio Telewizja ul. Andersa 29 Radio Telewizja stock a range of literature that cover topics from local art and architecture to contemporary history.

Tinged with a retro 60s atmosphere, their offer isn’t just based around Polish and English-language reading material, and extends further into quirky gifts and black/ white photos that capture the era.

Super Salon ul. Chmielna 10, supersalon.org Filled with beautiful titles, Super Salon dedicates itself to books, magazines and albums covering weighty subject matter such as photography, design, erotica and architecture. Represented publishers include Phaidon, Gestalten and Steidl.

fashion Ania Kuczyńska ul. Mokotowska 61 Ania Kuczyńska is becoming well known for her highly fashionable, minimalist clothing designs. The store also carries adorable baby clothes and various accessories.

Balthazar ul. Mokotowska 64 (Plac Trzech Krzyży), balthazar.pl An atelier, boutique and private tailor with several unique brands. Book your meeting by calling tel. 535 545 728.

Chrum ul. Dobra 53, chrum.com Amid a quirky design that mimics a butcher’s store, find a cult collection of tees and hoodies emblazoned with playful slogans and punchy graphics. Showcasing the fun side of Polski design, Chrum caters to customers who enjoy www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / shopping their fashion with a pinch of humor. di Trevi Boutique ul. Piękna 11A, ditrevi.pl Aimed at both him and her, di Trevi present the freshest Italian footwear releases from prestige brands such as Ballin and Loriblu. Handbags are also available inside a chic interior that exudes luxury.

ney, perfectly fashioned tees from American Vintage and ballet flats from Bloch.

Hamper’s Bay ul. Dobra 11, hampersbay.com Fit out and fit into the local scene by stocking up on clothes from this Powiśle staple. Brands include Komono, Dynomighty, Uggly, Happy Socks and Wemoto. No-one knows why, or too whom, but they also sell surfboards.

Dream Nation ul. Kopernika 8/18, dreamnation.pl Founded in 2011, Dream Nation is a label committed to sustainable fashion. Find colorful dresses and original prints spruced up by the designer’s wild, personal twist. All garments are made using organic cotton.

Joanna Klimas ul. Nowolipki 2, joannaklimas.com One of Poland’s top fashion designers runs this boutique/showroom. Choose from the latest collections or have a dress custom made for a particular occasion.

EM Cashmere Boutique ul. Szczygla 8, emcashmere.pl Available brands include Allude Cashmere, Annette Görtz, Studiorundholz and Sarah Pacini with 30-40% discounts on last year’s collections, and up to 70% on those of previous years.

A truly beautiful find with the clothes offer supplemented with shoes and accessories.

Likus Concept Store ul. Bracka 9 (Vitkac), likusconceptstore.pl The Likus Concept Store brings ultra-chic designer clothing to Warsaw. The latest collections from Diesel, D2, Ferre, Sophia Kokosalaki and J. Lindeberg are all available and presented in this stylish three-floor department store.

Frank A ul. Natolińska 3, franka.pl The interior is painfully chic and the clothing effortlessly elegant with a minimalist edge. Stocks major brands that you can’t find anywhere else in Warsaw, from handbags from Pauric Swee-

Lolly Pop Boutique Al. Jerozolimskie 169 lok 45A (C.H. Blue City, level 1), lollypop.pl Latest fashion from See

by Chloe, Calvin Klein, Calvin Klein Jeans, Melissa, UnitedNude, Bronx and many more.

For online shopping, check: sklep.lollypop.pl

Madox ul. Browarna 4, madoxdesign.com Best known for the baggy crotched trousers that took Warsaw by storm a couple of years back, Damian Nowacki’s fashion store juxtaposes urban street casual against unisex ideas.

Moliera 2 Boutique ul. Moliera 2, moliera2.com Brands: Alexandre Birman, Alexandre Vauthier, Anya Hindmarch, Aquazzura, Balmain, Beach Bunny, Buscemi, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Francesco Russo, Gianvito Rossi, Herve Leger, Isabel Marant, Jimmy Choo, Kenzo, Kotur, Maison Michel, Moncler, One Teaspoon, Simonetta Ravizza, Tod’s, Tory Burch, Valentino, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon.

Pan Tu Nie Stal Koszykowa 35/40, pantuniestal.com Polish design at its peak: fashion is prominent, but there’s also interesting bitsy things such as aprons, jam jars, notebooks and mugs – all with a defiantly Polish twist. Eccentric, unusual and emphatically on-trend, it’s a must-visit.

Pinko Klif shopping Centre, ul. Okopowa 58/72,

BROUGHT TO YOU BY SEN NOCY LETNIEJ

SCENT-SATIONAL

Perfume is more than just a convenient gift to turn to once all other options have been exhausted. At least, it is once you turn your back on the high street and explore the less conventional options. Both personal and intimate, a beautiful scent can be a showstopping thing and it certainly is at Sen Nocy Letniej.

1. Menditterosa, an energetic perfume that is modern yet elegant; 2. Etat Libre D’Orange, a dynamic scent with hints of jasmine and tobacco; 3. Dyfuzor + Alba1913, natural aromatherapy oil made using a technique dating from 1913.

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3.

2.

Kotur, zł. 8,975

Christian Louboutin, zł. 6,320

Tory Burch, zł. 2,355

Turning Heads

Dress by Herve Leger, zł. 8,975

Gianvito Rossi, zł. 3,955

As the clock ticks towards the end of the year, panic rises and pulses surge: what to wear for the biggest night of the calendar – New Year’s Eve? Mixing elegance and sophistication with the latest trends in high fashion, find the answer in Moliera 2.

Aquazurra, zł. 2,980

Alexandre Birman, zł. 2,795 www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / shopping Nowy Świat 1, Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), pinko.it Straight from Italy, this exclusive shop offers an array of chic day wear and eye-catching casual and evening clothes.

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, plactrzechkrzyzy.com Brands: Beach Bunny, Buscemi, Canada Goose, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Dsquared 2, Christian Louboutin, Fay, Gianvito Rossi, Hogan, Kenzo, Kotur, Moncler, Mr& Mrs Italy, One Teaspoon, Ralph Lauren, Simonetta Ravizza, Tom Ford, Tory Burch, Valentino, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon.

Childrenswear: Burberry Children, Dsquared2 Kids, Kenzo Kids, Moncler Kids, Ralph Lauren Kids, Tod’s Kids.

Ptasia 6 ul. Ptasia 6, ptasia6.pl A unique ladies concept store showcasing the works of both emerging and established independent Polish fashion labels such as Eva Grygo, Confashion, Horror! Horror!, Kasia Miciak and Polanka.

QπШ - Robert Kupisz ul. Mokotowska 48/204 (courtyard), robertkupisz.com One of Warsaw’s hottest fashion icons, and a trip here soon explains why. The exclusive, handmade garments are a guaranteed head turner.

Redford and Grant Metropolitan Building, Pl. Piłsudskiego 3, redfordandgrant.pl This multibrand fashion store is the ultimate destination for designer style in Warsaw for men and women. Offers clothing and accessories from the newest collections from all the major international designers like Dior, YSL, D&G, Gucci, Miu Miu and Prada.

Reykjavik District ul. Burakowska 15, tel. 501 399 222, reykjavikdistrict.com Chic, well-cut menswear for all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal.

Sabotage ul. Burakowska 5/7 Those in-the-know know Sabotage as one of the places to buy funky deconstructed denim and sportswear pieces. Here you’ll find a wide array of unique clothes, hats, belts and handbags in a variety of fabrics and styles that hail straight from New York, London and Tokyo.

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Sen Nocy Letniej ul. Oleandrów 5A, sennocyletniej.pl A perfume concept store in which the sacred meets the profane. Sophisticated yet wearable scents are crafted using traditional French methods and are displayed alongside luxurious cosmetics and aromatic candles.

These are products that connect soul the spirit, mind and body.

Originally inspired by the Savile Row style, Zaremba have been fitting out gentlemen of Warsaw since 1898. Under Maciej Zaremba, the brand has moved forward to take into account global trends while also respecting its past. Bespoke jackets start from zł. 5,900.

Van Thorn ul. Sienna 39, tel. 22 243 7377, vanthorn. pl Bespoke and made-to-measure suits as well as custom-made shirts and a range of accessories from ties and pocket squares down to shoes and cufflinks. The attention to detail, the quality and craftsmanship are staggering.

Apteka Sztuki Al. Wyzwolenia 3/5 Apteka Sztuki is an art gallery that features collections by up-andcoming contemporary artists, preferring promising unknowns to big names. The exhibits, which rotate on a monthly basis, include a variety of media created by artists from all over Europe (although the focus is on Poland).

Vintage Store ul. Dobra 56/66 (Level 1, University of Warsaw library), vintagestore.pl Since its inception the store has grown in many ways – now, used brands like Burberry, Barbour, dresses from the ’70s, Hermes scarves, snakeskin handbags, or original Adidas sweaters from the ’60s and ’70s (the owner is an avid collector) are not an uncommon find in the shop.

Viola Śpiechowicz ul. Kolejowa 55 (Łomianki), vsstore.eu/ violaspiechowicz.com Viola Spiechowicz is an inspiring, unpretentious and highly creative fashion designer who has cultivated her own original and inimitable style since her 1992 debut. Her designs are the result of a long search for the perfect form, texture and color scheme, lending each project its own unique style: be it fashion, upholstery fabrics or accessory design.

Wake Up The Bear ul. Mokotowska 41, wakeupthebear.com Stylish ‘travel practical’ clothes as designed by the acclaimed Viola Spiechowicz. Featuring natural fabrics and multipurpose add-ons, this is the ultimate in comfort clothes.

Wearso.organic ul. Boya- Żeleńskiego 2, wearso.com If you love extravagant forms and monochromes this is the place is for you. Designers use only natural materials. Aside from clothes and fashion accessories you’ll also find several items for home.

Zaremba ul. Nowogrodzka 15, zaremba-krawiec.pl

home

Cotton Ball Lights ul. Chmielna 27/31, cottonballlights.pl Offering 40 different varieties and colors of cotton-wrapped bulbs, these simple lights stand to transform your living space with their soft, gentle glow. Highly adaptable, and capable of slotting into any context, overhauling the whole mood of your home has never been easier…

Dado Design ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), dadodesign.pl ‘Beauty, modernity and functionality’. It’s on these foundations Dado’s philosophy is built.

Touting brands such as Bruhl, Gaber, Slide and Infiniti, this design store carries pieces chosen for their style and originality. Find it all from sofas and tables to picture frames and salt shakers. Your flat will thank you.

Długa Showroom ul. Długa 8/14, dlugashowroom.pl Decorative plaster materials from Novacolor and porcelain from Visa Alegre (the official china of the White House and Buckingham Palace) are a couple of reasons to go here for spending. Alternatively, go Polish by going for the designer tableware of Bartek Meyer.

Le Pukka ul. Solec 58/60, lepukka.pl For interior inspirations take a look at Le Pukka: highly original furniture and decorative pieces for the home come from the likes of Smeg, AreaDeclic, HK Living and Zuiver.

Magazyn Praga ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory) A visit to this home design store is guaranteed to transform

Winter Warmer

Wrapping up doesn’t have to mean sacrificing your style ethos.Warm and wearable yes, but Moliera’s new stock for the season also takes into account the latest looks you’ll be needing to set yourself apart from the crowd. Forget the old, replenish your winter wardrobe with these must have items.

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1. Hat by Yves Salomon, zł. 430 2. Gloves by Fay, zł. 350 3. Coat by Mr & Mrs Italy, zł. 13,850 4. Boots by Isabel Marant, zł. 1,769 5. Bag by Anna Hindmarch, zł. 5,985

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BROUGHT TO YOU BY MINTY DOT

Diamonds Are Forever

Minty dot’s latest jewelry range demonstrates why diamonds are a girl’s best friend...

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oth sensual and supremely sophisticated, Minty dot’s jewelry highlights the feminine beauty of every woman. Specializing in ‘jewelry that carries a message’, our designs promise to embellish and compliment your seasonal look. The ideal gift for a confident woman with romantic leanings, Minty dot’s jewelry answers questions like ‘where, what and for whom’. Our large selection recognizes that small details make a difference, which is why our options are tailor-made for special occasions – these are treasures guaranteed to make those receiving them smile.

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Minty dot ul. Bracka 5, tel. 22 629 2038, mintydot.pl

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Diamonds

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Warszawa Bracka 5, Katowice CH Silesia & partner stores Red Rubin www.mintydot.pl

listings / shopping your apartment. Showcasing emerging Polish talent, the items here are not without humor: ceramic French bulldogs are particularly popular.

Makutra ul. Oleandrów 5, makutra.com To know and not to cook, is not to know. This store has everything a master chef seeks: from tagines to mezzalunas, it’s got the lot covered. Huge stock of cook books and kitchenware.

Nap ul. Mysia 3 Bedtime accessories are the

MEDIA PATRONAGE

bread and butter here, but there’s also several bits for the kitchen as well: coffee makers

by Tom Dixon, posh pans from Baumalu, arty saltshakers from Menu and tableware from Muubs. A true treat for any home. noon/noon ul. Pańska 98 (enter from ul. Prosta), noonnoon.pl Well-balanced as a coffee bar / showroom where you can interact and experience the functionality and quality of the furniture first hand.

Pies Czy Suka ul. Szpitalna 8A, piesczysuka.com Husband and wife team Beata Konarska and Paweł Konarski push the boundaries of creativity in a home design store that’s heavy with statement pieces: life sized moldings of animals, illuminated Jesus statues, edgy art, etc.

Red Poppy ul. Lekarska 9, redpoppy.pl Being the first hand-printing design studio in Poland, they focus primarily on making one-of-akind wallpapers as well curtains, lampshades, and cushions. And a good product it is: a series of Justyna Medoń’s patterns won the 2012 Must Have Prize at the Łódź Design Festival.

KIMONO DAY! Join Sano Sugawara from London store Furuki Yo-Vintage Kimono as she presents original Japanese kimonos from the early 20th century. Running alongside this will be a haridressing workshop run by Yaga Hupało from Born To Create. Admission for this night of oriental beauty is free, with the event scheduled to run from 11 a.m. until 7 p.m. on December 2nd.

Sen Nocy Letniej ul. Oleandrów 5

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Reset Point ul. Puławska 48 sklep.resetpoint.pl A treasure trove of renovated antique furniture, vinyl clocks, 70s style handle-less PRL mugs and modern art prints of legendary landmarks such as Dworzec Centralny and the Palace of Culture. Plenty of pieces and curios from upcoming and established domestic design studios.

Scandinavian Living ul. Wiertnicza 155, scandinavianliving.pl Representing upcoming Swedish, Danish and Finnish designers as well as several truly iconic names, Scandinavian Living presents such finds as tablecloths from Lazy Linen, ceramics by Bloomingville, and fun tableware from Muminki.

Wawa Bla Bla ul. Dobra 15 A gift store with a difference: showcasing the working of Poland’s upcoming ‘street artists’, not to mention the British proprietor’s own photos of Warsaw’s graffiti, this shop is filled with unconventional keepsakes that include canvas prints, Warsaw-themed mugs and one-of-a-kind postcards.

malls & department stores Arkadia Al. Jana Pawła II 82, tel. 22 323 6767, arkadia.com.pl Atelier Mokotowska 63 ul. Mokotowska 63 Four levels of high end fashion, with Woolrich, Mason’s, Lardini, Boglioli, Borelli and Seventy all represented. Intimate, discreet and above all luxurious.

Galeria Mokotów ul. Wołoska 12, tel. 22 541 4141, galeriamokotow.com.pl Klif House of Fashion ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4500 klif.pl Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has everythingincluding top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko.

Plac Unii ul. Puławska 2, tel. 22 204 0499, placunii. pl Warsaw’s latest mall counts Armani Jeans, Liu-Jo and Pandora amongst its upmarket tenants.

Mysia 3 ul. Mysia 3, tel. 603 767 574, mysia3.pl Hip department store that’s seen a few tenants come and go, yet has remained on the cutting edge in spite of it all. Set in Poland’s former censorship office, the line-up includes Scandinavian fashion in Cos, shoes from My Paris, unconventional fashion from Nenukko and more.

Vitkac Wolf Bracka Vitkac, ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7313, likusconceptstore.pl Vitkac was made for with a credit card blitz in mind. Poland’s first luxury department store gathers the world’s top designers under one roof, with brands including Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton, Stella McCartney and Rick Owens. And that’s the tip of the iceberg. Finish with dinner in the top floor Concept 13.

Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59, tel. 22 222 2200, zlotetarasy.pl Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Jatomi Health and Fitness Club.

family activities Barwy Muzyki ul. Niecała 14, tel. 22 188 18 27, barwymuzyki.pl This informal music school, with highly qualified teachers experienced in the Colour Strings program, acknowledges not every child will be a professional musician but that playing, listening and singing to music is an asset to their development.

Group or individual lessons on piano, violin, guitar, cello and flute for 6-12yrs.

Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. 22 596 41 00, open Tue-Fri 9:00-6:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-7:00, kopernik.org.pl A brilliant array of science-inspired attractions that prove as stimulating for parents as they are for the kids. Check out Galeria BZZZ, an area designated for children up to six. In order to keep numbers manageable, expect entry times to be staggered.

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

SUCH A LITTLE THING...

A friend introduced me to The Little Gym (thelittlegym.eu) when we were talking about the kind of out-of-school activities the are available for kids in Warsaw. She talked about their philosophy in such depth I suspected she held some kind of financial stake in The Little Gym. I certainly didn’t have any interest in visiting their Wilanów branch, and my friend’s OTT excitement smacked of being brainwashed by some cult. Anyhow, months later I was passing through Powiśle when I saw their new location close to the Copernicus Centre – curiosity got the better of me and, wouldn’t you know it, I found myself signing my daughter up for a semester of classes.

I was soon reminded of the pillars on which The Little Gym is built: first, there’s Get Moving, which focuses on physical activities and is aimed at the development of flexibility, strength and balance. Be warned though that the fun will carry over to the home as my daughter has learned to love climbing the furniture and balancing on the back of the couch. Then there’s Brain Boost which nurtures a child’s listening skills, concentration and decision-making. Finally, there’s Life Skills which promotes sharing, teamwork and cooperation amongst children. I’m shocked to admit both of these last two have made my daughter proactive when it comes to cleaning her room and helping out with ordinary chores that she generally wouldn’t be bothered helping with.

As apprehensive as I may have been, I soon found that my friend’s enthusiasm wasn’t misguided: by keeping focused on these core principles, The Little Gym develop children in a way that’s beyond the capabilities of most schools – and they do so in a way that’s at all times fun and engaging. And best of all, I’ve also since discovered that there’s nothing cultish in the slightest about the owners! (KD)

Fundacja Atelier ul. Foksal 11, 22 826 8813 or 22 826 9589, open Mon-Fri 10:00- 20:00, Sat 9:30-20:30, atelier.org.pl Situated in an atmospheric 19th century building this foundation organizes affordable/flexible workshops to develop and inspire art education and creative skills (painting/drawing/sculpture/ art history) for children, young people and adults.

Gym Generation ul. Wybrzeże Gdyńskie 4 (Centrum Olimpijskie, floor 4), tel. 502 092 695, gymgeneration.pl A professionally developed curriculum that offers your child a range of experiences, providing new and exciting activities each time and engaging them in physical challenges, a variety of games and team puzzles. There’s a maximum of 15 kids to a class, with one instructor for every five children.

Hangar 646 ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 646, hangar646.pl Children with excessive energy levels should head to Hangar 646. Located in a former airport hangar, the 2,700 sq/m of trampoline space includes a swimming pool of sponges.

Children from three years old are welcome www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / family to let off steam, with instructors available to teach acrobatics and suchlike; or you can just bounce off walls!

The Little Gym ul. Bruzdowa 56 & ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 45, tel. 22 842 0728, thelittlegym.eu Expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-to-child ratio, original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. Not only a great place for children, but tailored to a comfortable and relaxing stay for parents as well.

Mums & Tots mumsandtots.pl A volunteer group for mums (and dads) of all nationalities – coffee mornings, play groups, art and music classes and nights out for parents; the list is endless.

For more details, as well as their newsletter and schedule check their web.

Zachęta Gallery Pl. Małachowskiego 3, tel. 22 556 9600,

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zacheta.art.pl Recently undergone extensive modernization but still awaiting a café, this gallery and bookshop offer a perfect introduction to modern art. Also available are weekend workshops for children and original cultural birthday parties guided by experienced animators in a contemporary environment.

education preschools

American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, aswarsaw.org American School of Warsaw provides a rich, meaningful and balanced educational experience through ageappropriate activities to students aged 3 to 5. For further information and/or to visit our

school, contact:admissions@aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00.

The British Primary School of Wilanów ul. Hlonda 12, bsww.pl, tel. 781 988 000 Following the National Curriculum of England and Wales, this is the first School in Poland subject to the inspection of the UK Independent School Inspectorate. Pupils receive British and, upon request, Polish reports/ diplomas. The school follows a closed admissions policy and limits enrollment of one nationality to below 50% of each class starting from Year 1.

The British School Early Years Centre ul. Dąbrowskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646 7777, british@thebritishschool.pl,

BROUGHT TO YOU BY POLIN

KING MATT OF POLIN! Aimed at children and their carers, we have prepared a colorful,

modern space called King Matt’s Family Education Area. Introducing our youngest visitors to the great world of Jewish culture, tradition and history, all workshops organized here combine an atmosphere of learning while maintaining an ambiance that’s creative, playful and familial. These workshops will be led by talented educators and artists who have a deep knowledge of their subject but who also, above all, love working with children. At last, the children who visit us will be able to take part in workshops on Jewish holidays, cooking activities, meetings with interesting guests, theatrical performances, movie shows and chamber music concerts. They’ll also learn more about the principles of cooperation and communication as we will argue, discuss and persuade in a spirit that respects both democratic values as well as other people.

POLIN ul. Anielewicza 6, tel. 22 47 10 300, www.polin.pl

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listings / family thebritishschool.pl The Early Years Foundation Stage is where a lifetime of learning begins. The British School, Warsaw provides EYFS classes from Pre-nursery (age 30 months) to Reception (5 years old).

Children develop quickly and their Early Years practitioners aim to do all they can to help your child have the best possible start in life and become a lifelong learner.

The Canadian School of Warsaw Preschool ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, preschool@canadianschool.pl The Canadian School of Warsaw is the only authorized school in Warsaw teaching IB PYP in English. The preschool offers a bilingual environment for 3-6 year olds enriched with foreign languages and extra activities. Serving the Warsaw community since 2000 all children are welcome, though available space is limited. For further info, tours and school visits call or email.

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School

have 3 green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy.

Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. Call to make an appointment to tour any of the 3 schools.

International Trilingual School of Warsaw ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/ saint-exupery.pl Established in 1994, and formerly known as Ecole Antoine de Saint Exupery, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fill-immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French.

Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China.

(multiple locations)

Warsaw Montessori School ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, warsawmontessori.edu. pl Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini

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The English Playhouse ul. Pływiańska 14a & ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 22 843 9370, office open 8:0016.00, theenglishplayhouse.com The English

Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów.

The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old. For more info or to arrange a tour of the pre-school or nursery call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email: jnowak@theenglishplayhouse.com

Maple Tree Montessori ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/ Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, mapletreemontessori.pl Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). Find them located in the Wilanów district of Warsaw, in a house safely nestled into the end of a quiet street.

Montessori Academy for International Children ul. Królewicza Jakuba 36 (Wilanów), open Mon-Fri 8:00-16:15, ul. Sadowa 4 (Konstancin), Open 8:00-16:45, tel. 502 315 022, montessoriacademy.eu An English-speaking pre-school (16 months to 6 years of age) with two locations. The

listings / family school’s policy is to comply with Montessori standards, using the Montessori Method in English. The school’s philosophy is based on the joy of learning, which comes from discovering and furthering the individual development of each child.

schools American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, aswarsaw.org ASW is a premier collegepreparatory international school that offers a PK-12 curriculum, including the IB Diploma Program in Grades 11 and 12. Students are inspired and challenged every day by experienced and dedicated teachers, who provide enriching learning opportunities in a world class facility. For further information and/ or to visit our school contact: admissions@ aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00.

The British Primary School of Wilanów ul. Hlonda 12, bsww.pl, tel. 781 988 000 Following the National Curriculum of England and Wales, this is the first School in Poland subject to the inspection of the UK Independent School Inspectorate.

Pupils receive British and, upon request, Polish reports/diplomas. The school follows a closed admissions policy and limits

enrollment of one nationality to below 50% of each class starting from Year 1.

The British School ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, open 8:00-16:00, british@thebritishschool.pl, thebritishschool.pl Premium international school established in 1992 by Nord Anglia Education. The curriculum is designed to provide the highest academic quality of education. They follow the English National Curriculum, adapted to the needs of their international student community: from Primary through to the Secondary Key Stages to the IGCSE examinations and a well-established International Baccalaureate (IB) Diploma Programme.

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations)

Warsaw Montessori School ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, warsawmontessori.edu.pl Casa dei Bambini Warsaw Montessori School are set to open their Erdkinder Montessori Middle School as of September 2016. Located at Tatrzańska 5A they promise an extraordinary opportunity for study, work and for daily living. Guided

by trained specialists, students will be responsible for managing their household, operating small businesses, caring for local flora and fauna as well as domesticated animals, taking charge of the younger children and much more. “Adolescence Program” activities, integrated with academic studies, help students discover their inner strength to meet life’s real challenges.

The English Primary ul. Rzodkiweki 18, tel. 784 037 808, jnowak@tep.edu.pl ul. Rzodkiweki 18, tel. 784 037 808, jnowak@tep.edu.pl The English Primary is designed specifically for children in the primary education ages, just as children experience in England but in an international community. Pupils are taken through the key learning stages so that they can achieve to the best of their ability through a fun learning experience. The Core Curriculum subjects include English, Phonics, Science, Mathematics, French, PE and Swimming, Music, Personal, Social and Health Education. The school is a member of Council of British International Schools (COBIS).

The Canadian School of Warsaw Elementary School ul. Bełska 7, tel.

692 411 573, admission@ canadian-school.pl, canadian-school.pl

Casa dei Bambini Warsaw Montessori School accepting

applications for all our locations and programs: warsaw montessori school

Infant & Toddler: age 1-2.5, Casa: age 2.5-6 Contact Ela: tel. 692 099 134 office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl Elementary: age 6-9, 9-12 Contact Sylvia: tel. 606 276 112 sylvia@warsawmontessori.edu.pl "Erdkinder" Middle School: age 12-15 Contact Małgosia: tel. 604 137 826 malgosia@warsawmontessori.edu.pl

Merry Christmas

Warszawa: Szwoleżerów 4, Badowska 19, Tatrzańska 5a, Izabelin-Hornówek: Szkolna 16 www.warsawmontessori.edu.pl

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listings / family The Canadian School of Warsaw is the only authorized school in Warsaw teaching IB PYP in English. The Primary School offers bilingual education for 6-11 year olds. Highly qualified, international staff, challenging materials and a friendly atmosphere provide an optimal setting for the highest standard of education.

Extra-curricular activities include visual arts, designing classes, ceramics/pottery, art studio, music lessons (piano, guitar, choir), sports (capoeira, karate, judo, soccer, swimming, gymnastics), languages (English, Polish, French, Spanish, Italian, German) and more.

The Canadian School of Warsaw Middle School ul. Olimpijska 11, tel. 885 420 044 / 885 620 066, secretary.olimpijska@canadianschool.pl, canadian-school.pl Provides a continuation of PREIB education for 11-15 year olds. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create a perfect learning and creative thinking environment. For further info, tours and school visits call or email. Also home to the Non-Public Psycho-Pedagogical Counseling Centre ‘Olimpia’ (tel. 885 620 066) which examines the level of mental, emotional, auditory and visual-motor functions’ development, and conducts individual and group pedagogical therapy, as well as individual psychotherapy..

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International Trilingual School of Warsaw ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/ saint-exupery.pl Established in 1994, and formerly known as Ecole Antoine de Saint Exupery, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fill-immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China.

Willy Brandt Schule Warschau Św. Urszuli Ledóchowskiej 3, tel. 22 642 2705, wbs.pl One of the city’s best renowned schools offers a kindergarten as well as primary and secondary education conducted to a German curriculum.

shops Kopytko Mamuta ul. Boya-Żeleńskiego 2, kopytkomamuta.pl The creation of Kopytko Mamuta plugs a gap in the market, with beautifully cobbled shoes that are, in the words of the owner Agnieszka,

‘the essence of Parisian chic’. Specializing in trendy kicks from the likes of Mercredi Apres Midi, it’s the ultimate spoiler for your budding style maven and her little Prince Charming.

Muppetshop ul. Kazimierzowska 43, tel. 532 689 212, muppetshop.pl An innovative concept store that offers a wide range of brands and products targeted at young people – babies, juniors, teenagers. The portfolio includes full-service for expecting parents as well as complete interior projects. On top of that expect a wealth of other design products (kitchen accessories, decorations, toys, bags, books etc.) from carefully selected brands.

Pieluszkarnia ul. Topiel 12, ul. Mandalińskiego 25, tel. 22 713 8275, pieluszkarnia.pl This small chain specializes in eco-friendly toys and clothing designed and produced in Poland. Products include the Lalanka dolly clothing collection, luxuriously soft reversible winter balaclavas and personalized Martello blankets for birth.

Rebel Angel ul. Klimczaka 13 (Miasteczko Wilanów), tel. 501 541 038, rebelangel.pl The draw here is a wide offer of Mayoral clothing, a Spanish brand that has outfitted the children of Ronaldo and the Spanish royal family.

Priding themselves on their level of service, Rebel Angel has become the one-stop shop for those looking to dress their kids.

health & beauty gyms

Artis Wellness Club ul. Klimczaka 1 (Royal Wilanów), artisclub. pl And so here we have a contender for Warsaw’s best gym. Found in Royal Wilanów, this state-of-the-art gym boasts the latest technological advances in personal fitness, as well as a massive program of courses that range from group cycling and yoga to Zumba and body combat. Personal training and deluxe spa facilities also available.

THE NATIONAL STADIUM The people of Warsaw love getting their skates on, yet while there’s no shortage of ice rinks to choose from, none come close to matching up to what you’ll find at the National Stadium. With major sporting events on hold for the winter, once again the playing pitch has been transformed into a veritable kingdom of ice. With a total of three rinks spanning 5,000 sq/m, highlights include an 11-meter tall ‘ice hill’ to hurtle down on an inflatable rubber ring, a curling field supervised by certified ambassadors of the sport, and bumper cars: “fasten your seatbelts,” say the organizers, “then indulge in madness!”

The general upshot is this: if you want to simply skate around in a circle then, yes, you can. But then you can do that in plenty of places.

What sets the National Stadium apart is the sheer choice of extras: Friday and Saturday night ‘ice discos’ (11 p.m. and 10.15 p.m. respectively), kids’ events each Saturday and Sunday morning, not to mention classes catering to all levels of competence. Afterwards, chill out and warm-up in the ‘Ice Bar – Polar Station’. In all, it’s reckoned that over half a million people visited last year, and that number could well be exceeded this time around.

In addition, a Christmas market is expected to line the approach to the stadium itself, while inside, on the lower floors, further attractions include the country’s biggest skatepark housed on level -4 of the car park: not just limited to skateboarding, there’s also banks, ramps and rails for rollerbladers, BMXs and scooters. So much more than just a giant ice rink, the National Stadium has evolved into a complete day out.

For further info, prices & online tickets, see: zimowynarodowy.pl Zimowy Narodowy Al. Ks. J. Poniatowskiego 1

Pr1me Fitness & Wellness at the Radisson SAS Centrum Hotel ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888 Smallish but well-regarded gym with swimming pool, sauna, gym, and group classes inside one of Warsaw’s top five stars.

Fitness Centre at the Sheraton Hotel ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6701, www.sheraton. com/warsaw The Sheraton spa features sauna, steam room and massage, while the gym comes with LCD-fitted running and cycling machines, and a dedicated cardio section. Personal training available, as are group classes covering pilates, yoga, aerobics and even ski conditioning.

Holmes Place Energy ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), www.holmesplace.pl Making top-flight gym facilities available to the masses, the Holmes Place Energy brand offers high standard equipment, personal training and group classes. Six month membership available for approx. zł. 200 per month, though prices are subject to change. For latest details enquire direct.

Holmes Place Premium ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel), tel. 22 851 0563, ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), tel. 22 313 1222, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), tel. 519 436 841, www.holmesplace.pl Those who use it claim the Hilton branch is the best gym in Poland.

Set on two floors, highlights include a 25 meter pool, sauna and steam room and a www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / health & beauty spacious gym packed with the most modern equipment. Also on-site, a varied timetable of classes, excellent personal trainers and a Green Coffee relaxation area. There’s two more ‘premium’ gyms to choose from, including the one in the Marriott immortalized after Obama’s recent work out there.

ArtDental ul. Łucka 18, tel. 22 654 3006, artdental.pl Well-known among expats, ArtDental’s service is widely praised for its honest service and moderate prices. English speaking and moderately priced.

Little Gym ul. Bruzdowa 56, tel. 22 842 0728, www.thelittlegym.pl Targeted at children, expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-to-child ratio, original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. Englishspeaking, as well.

Aster Med ul. Św. Bonifacego 92, tel. 22 858 0354, www.astermed.pl Aster Med, while billing itself as a center of orthodontics and implantology, is really the full service with 14 dentists and 4 orthodontists and implant surgeons.

McFit ul. Świętokrzyska 3 (corner of Nowy Świat), tel. 22 313 1400, mcfit.com The budget European chain signals its arrival to Poland with a 2,000 sq/m studio that utilizes the latest technology as well as ‘cyber training’ programs. Open 24/7, with membership from zł. 89 per month.

DeClinic ul. Bernardyńska 16A, tel. 22 112 0400, declinic.pl Regarded as one of the most modern clinics in Europe, amongst other innovations DeClinic have swapped the traditional drilling process in favor of abrasive sandblaster – perfect for kids or those afraid of the dentist.

Quantum Fitness ul. Piękna 15, quantumpiekna.pl Snuck to the side of a glamorous slab of residential new build, Quantum takes the keep fit business to new levels. A place of quiet, understated luxury, equipment is state-ofthe-art and complemented by expert trainers at the peak of their game. This is the full 24-carat gym experience.

DentaLux ul. Racławicka 31 & Puławska 257, tel. 22 787 878, dentalux.pl Englishspeaking service available, as well as 24hr emergency consultations.

Ride Warsaw ul. Karolkowa 30, ridewarsaw.com Around twice a day this small studio opens up to the public with group cycling classes overseen by a team of English-speaking instructors.

This is not a leisurely Sunday pedal, but a high energy workout with a banging soundtrack and constant interaction with the trainer in charge.

RiverView Wellness Centre ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental), tel. 22 328 86 40, www.riverview.com.pl Top-class facilities and equipment, private instructors and small classes. The view from the highest pool in Europe offers a glorious panorama of the city. Annual prices from zł. 4,200 (access from Mon-Fri 6 a.m. to 5 p.m.), zł. 5,760 (all times), and zł. 8,350 for Diamond Membership (includes two personal training sessions per month, a complimentary weekend at the InterContinental, restaurant discounts, etc.).

dental clinics

100 Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2016

EuroDental Various locations, tel. 22 380 7000, eurodental.pl English-speaking dentists on request. Lacking the ‘boutique’ charm of some of Warsaw’s more modish clinics, the service here is both efficient and moderately priced.

Elektoralna Dental Clinic ul. Elektoralna 28, tel. 22 620 2140, elektoralna.pl State-of-the-art dental clinic featuring Poland’s first dental tomograph.

Languages spoken include English, German, Spanish and Arabic.

Odent’s personal approach is complimented by expert staff and the latest and most advanced treatments and equipment.

English-speaking service also available.

medical clinics Damian Medical Center Various locations, see website for details: damian.pl Established in 1994, Damian offer a wide range of medical services in their hospital and five outpatient clinics. English spoken widely.

Lux Med Medical Clinics Various locations, see website for details: www.luxmed.pl Medicover Various locations, see website for details: medicover.pl Hugely popular amongst ex-pats, Medicover offer a wide range of membership schemes for both private and corporate clients. The jewel in their crown is a state-of-the-art hospital in the Wilanów district.

Therapy Warsaw ul. Filtrowa 69/13, tel. 601 532 319, www.therapywarsaw.com English-speaking therapy for couples and individuals dealing with relationships, eating disorders, trauma, stress and much more besides.

spas & salons Bali Spa ul. Nowy Świat 22, bali-spa.pl Let the Balinese therapists pamper you with authentic Balinese and Thai massages, full body rituals, facials, hot stone treatments, etc. inside sensual interiors filled with the mystical spirit of the East.

Malo Clinic Domaniewska 37 (3rd floor), tel. 22 393 6333, www.maloclinics.com/polska This world class dental clinic incorporates five dental offices, an operating room, two recovery rooms and a state-of-the-art diagnostic center.

Barberian Academy & Barber Shop ul. Emilii Plater 25 & ul. Koszykowa 9 Away from the black clouds of metrosexuality, Barberian is where men gather to celebrate being men. Lauded as the local champion of male grooming, this stand out has a rebel chic layout and barbers who are experts in their field.

Odent ul. Nowoursynowska 145E (entry from ul.

Rosoła) & ul. Duchnicka 3, tel. 22 405 4430, odent.pl Dubbed ‘the clinic with a heart’,

Bartek Janusz Salon ul. Mokotowska 19 / ul. Wilcza 72, tel. 22 828 4444, www.bartekjanusz.pl The staff here takes a no-nonsense approach to

listings / health & beauty cutting hair – it goes along with the minimalist chic interiors of the place. According to one Insider: “I’ve never left a salon feeling so happy with my hair.”

BodyClinic ul. Oboźna 9 lok. 104, tel. 22 826 1160 or 784 677 618, open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat 9:00-15:00, www.bodyclinic.pl Thorough body care for everyone. From the usual options to a huge variety of massages and some very exotic treatments, BodyClinic covers all the bases.

Dotyk SPA ul. Biały Kamień 3, tel. 22 898 7272, open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Sat 9:00-18:00, www.dotykspa.pl Probably the only place in Warsaw where you’ll get a facial yoga session. Going futher east, treat yourself to Japanese, Polynesian or Indian massage.

Hair a Porter ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent, level -1), tel. 22 558 1555, open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat 9:00-17:00, www.hair-a-porter.pl A staunch favorite among the ex-pat crowd, Hair a Porter offer the ultimate hair experience utilizing talented staff and top-quality products.

Haircology ul. Rozbrat 44A, tel. 669 780 669, open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-last guest, www.haircology.pl An upmarket ecologically minded hairdresser that eschews such things as synthetic fragrances, silicon and preservatives.

The Hermit Barber Shop pl. Bankowy 1, thehermit.pl You know those London barber shops you see in 1930s film reels? That’s Hermit, a thrilling throwback right down to the barber’s pole and checkered flooring. But don’t be fooled, this is as upmarket as it gets, with top quality products and even some 16-year-old whisky with which to pair the experience.

Izar Repechage ul. Moliera 1, tel. 604 209 900 or 22 827 7195, open Mon-Fri 8:00-20:00; Sat 8:0014:00, www.repechage.net.pl A gorgeous city spa which a range of treatments for the whole body.

La Perla multiple locations inc. Łowicka 21B/1, Wilcza 22A, Hilton Hotel, klinikalaperla.pl Here, the staff is adept and certified at a range of

innovative treatments: from the non-invasive Bella Contour treatment to the Body Tite and Body Jet treatments that use the latest surgical procedures to slim and tighten. For summer the right spa/salon/clinic is key. La Perla’s all three in one!

La Plata ul. Wielicka 42, tel. 517 576 667, laplataspa.pl Manual and mechanized massage in a relaxed space inspired by Buddhist philosophy. Treatments include herbal stamp Thai massage and hot coconut oil massage amongst others.

Le Spa ul. Mokotowska 55, tel. 22 622 9428, open Mon-Fri 9:00-21:00, Sat 9:00-16:00.

This little island of peace and beauty takes you light-years away from the bustle of Warsaw.

ouch!

NEW Spas & Salons DEPILACJA WOSKIEM

Ouch! ul. Belwederska 32, 22 240 87 67; ul.

Bonifraterska 8, tel. 22 298 11 12, ouch.pl Experts in waxing, Ouch! Aim their offer at ‘busy women looking for express treatments with lasting effects who, at the same time, appreciate a sense of intimacy’. High quality waxes, including fast and accurate epilation treatments whose effects last up to four weeks. Wax treatments for the whole body.

O Yes Massage ul. Nowolipki 27, tel. 22 400 11 44, oyes.pl Thai & Balinese massage packaged in a European way.

The Thai and Balinese therapists represent the heart of this chilled out spot, while the inexpensive prices (starting from zł. 99) and attentive service mark it out amongst others.

Buying four massages upfront earns clients a further discount.

PARDON MY FRENCH

manicure pedicure

Pardon My French ul. Belwederska 32, tel. 22 240 62 90; Bonifraterska 8, tel. 22 298 11 10; ul. Mokotowska 56, tel. 22 298 10 10, pardonmyfrench.pl Manicure and pedicure

treatments with high quality lacquers and an awareness of global trends: if you need an endorsement, Paul McCartney visited when he was in Poland! Free wifi and coffee, as well as the possibility of hosting baby showers and bachelorette parties. Open from 9-8 during the week and 9-5 on Sat (with the Mokotowska branch also welcoming visitors on Sunday from 10-4).

The Pedicure Place ul. Pokorna 2, lok. u11, tel. 22 241 3000 or 505 828 688, pedicure-place.pl A luxury pedi/manicure clinic with room for 10. All the latest OPI varnishes and over 200 colors guarantee you’ll find the latest in styling and nail care.

Quantum Clinic ul. Piękna 15, quantumpiekna.pl Using first class, pioneering methods and technology, the Quantum Clinic surpasses the norms that Warsaw has become used to. For the full Hollywood treatment, restore and replenish the body at a luxury spa devised to enhance the body and mind.

Rostowski Barber Shop ul. Koszykowa 58, rostowskibarbershop.pl A true celebration of the vintage barber shop, Rostowski have the ambiance nailed to a tee thanks to a crew that’s ready for banter and an interior replete with jack-up chairs, glinting zinc and restored floor tiles.

Retro Day Spa Al. Ujazdowskie 18/11, no. 311, tel. 22 622 03 69, www.retrodayspa.pl Royally indulgent interiors hark back to a different century, though the treatments are all hi-tech and include packages for pregnant women among the variety of beauty offers.

Sante ul. Jagiellońska 55A, studiosante.pl The dry and wet steam room left the Insider impressed, but not as much as the ‘mood rooms’ – imagine a lunar landscape chamber with a salt-covered floor. The other, meanwhile, comes clad in minerals with recliners hewn from heated tiles. As you stare at the mantra above the mind lets go and you feel almost as if your body is moving. Amazing.

Studio Jej i Jego ul. Wiertnicza 93A, tel. 22 885 0085, .jejijego.pl Hair and beauty treatments for men and women – inc. nail care, massage, facial and body treatments. www.warsawinsider.pl

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PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

in the city

ON INSTAGRAM #warsawinsider

The weather has chilled down, but Warsaw is hotter than ever: for you daily dose of city happenings, art, architecture and general urban weirdness, join us on Instagram to discover the other side of the Polish capital.

102 Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2016

listings / in the city VISITORS accomodation 5-Star Hotels Bellotto ul. Senatorska 13/15, tel. 22 829 6444, hotelbellotto.pl Bristol Hotel ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1000, bristol@luxurycollection. com, www.hotelbristolwarsaw.pl

H15 Boutique ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 553 8700, info@h15ab.com, www.h15ab.com Hilton Warsaw ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555 / 800 44 11 482, www.hilton.com InterContinental ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com Mamaison Le Régina Hotel Warsaw ul. Kościelna 12, tel. 22 531 6000, www. mamaison.com Marriott Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 6306, www.warsawmarriott.com Regent Warsaw Hotel ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, reservations@regent-warsaw.com, www.regent-warsaw.com The Rialto Boutique Hotel ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8700, www.rialto.pl Sheraton ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6100, www.sheraton.pl Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-warsaw

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Holiday Inn Express Warsaw Airport ul. Poleczki 35, tel. 22 373 37 00, www.hiexpress.com Sofitel Warsaw Victoria ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8011, www.sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com

Novotel Warszawa (Airport) ul. 1-ego Sierpnia 1, tel. 22 575 6000

Westin Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, www.westin.pl

Hotel Belwederski ul. Sulkiewicza 11, tel. 22 840 4011, www.hotelbelwederski.pl

4-Star Hotels

Airport Hotel Okęcie ul. 17-ego Stycznia 24, tel. 22 456 8000, www.airporthotel.com.pl Hampton by Hilton ul. Wspólna 72, tel. 22 317 2700, hamptoninn3.hilton.com Radisson Blu Sobieski pl. Zawiszy 1, tel. 22 579 1000, www.sobieski.com.pl Mecure Warszawa Centrum ul. Złota 48/54, tel. 22 697 3999, www.mercure.com Mercure Grand Warszawa ul. Krucza 28, tel. 22 583 2100, www.mercure.com Courtyard by Marriott Hotel (Airport) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 0100, www.warszawacourtyard.pl

Hotel Reytan ul. T. Rejtana 6, tel. 22 201 6400, www.reytan.pl

apartments

InterContinental ul. Emili Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www. warsaw.intercontinental.com Long and short stay apartments provided by the hotel of the same name. Perks included are the same as those received by hotel guests: i.e. access to the top floor pool, room service, maid service etc.

MaMaison Residence Diana ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 9100, www.mamaison.com/diana A beautiful city center location from the same team behind Le Regina. Short and long term stays.

B&B

Between Us Bed & Breakfast ul. Bracka 20, tel. 22 8285417 (from 10 a.m. to 11p.m.), www.between-us.eu

Novotel Warszawa Centrum ul. Marszałkowska 94/98, tel. 22 596 0000, www.novotel.com, www.accorhotels.com

Boutique B&B ul. Smolna 14/6, tel. 22 829 4800, www.bedandbreakfast.pl

Polonia Palace Hotel Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. 22 318 2800, www.poloniapalace.com

Chmielna Guesthouse ul. Chmielna 13, tel. 22 828 1282, www.chmielnabb.pl

Warsaw Plaza Hotel ul. Łączyny 5, tel. 885 886 100, www. warsawplazahotel.pl

car rental

3-Star Hotels

Hotel Belwederski ul. Sulkiewicza 11, tel. 22 840 4011, www.hotelbelwederski.pl Castle Inn Pl. Zamkowy, ul. Świętojańska 2, tel. 22 425 0100, www.castleinn.pl Golden Tulip ul. Towarowa 2, tel. 22 582 7500.

Avis tel. 22 572 6565, Fredrick Chopin Airport, tel. 22 650 4872, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 575 6583, Reservations: tel. 801 120 010, www.avis.pl Hertz Rent a Car Okęcie Airport, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel.

22 650 2896; mob. 691 411 130. ul.

Nowogrodzka 27 (D5), tel. 22 621 1360.

Sixt Rent a Car

BROUGHT TO YOU BY THE NATIONAL MUSEUM IN WARSAW

PRICELESS.

Recent Acquisitions at the National Museum in Warsaw (Until 12th February 2017)

I

Konrad Brandel (1838–1920) Warsaw. The Saxon Garden in wintertime, ca. 1885, albumen print from a glass plate, paperboard, (purchased in 2014)

Maria Pinińska-Bereś (1931–1999) Two Graces Comment on the Departure of a Third One, 1990, mixed technique, wood, acrylic, (purchased in 2016)

Alina Bondy-Glassowa (1865–1935) Self-portrait, ca. 1898–1900, pastel, cardboard, (purchased in 2015)

Łukasz Korolkiewicz (born 1948) Demons, 1987, oil, canvas, (purchase from 2015)

n the period between 2014 and 2016 the collection of the National Museum in Warsaw grew with the arrival of numerous extremely valuable artworks and artefacts. While most were acquired via purchase or donation, there have also been those that were returned to the museum having being lost during WWII. This exhibition features some 200 of the museum’s newly acquired works, among them paintings, sculptures, drawings, prints, photographs and artistic handicrafts ranging from ancient artefacts, like Egyptian masks and antique pottery, to contemporary objects. This exemplary selection will form a vibrant cultural, material and historic mosaic while also shedding light on the ways in which museum collections are built and expanded.

The Department of Cultural Heritage Abroad and Wartime Losses and the museum curators monitor the antique art markets and keep abreast of developments in the art world across the globe. Their constant efforts have made it possible to secure artefacts and bolster the museum’s stock, as well as broadening the scope of the exhibitions offered to the general public. Among the works purchased with the support of the Ministry of Culture and National Heritage, as well as other dedicated foundations, are pieces that constitute important milestones in the output of particular artists or those that serve as paragons of various phenomena in the history of art, especially those of Polish artists or artists with close ties to Poland.

Since its inception, the National Museum in Warsaw has been the beneficiary of donations from private individuals and institutions. In recent years the Museum has acquired works predominantly from the XIXth century, but among the donations have been a number of works by contemporary artists who have collaborated with the Museum and its various branches in numerous curatorial projects.

Thanks to the efforts of the Ministry of Culture and National Heritage, with support from the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and regular assistance from a variety of organisations and private individuals, the Museum has seen the return of a number works of art that went missing during World War Two. These mainly consist of drawings and graphic arts by Polish artists, but the museum has also successfully regained some very valuable paintings from much earlier periods.

National Museum in Warsaw Priceless. Recent Acquistions November 17th through Febraury 12th Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / in the city ul. Arabska 9, tel. 22 511 1550, 22 511 1555, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 2031, www.sixt.pl Trust Rent a Car ul. Marynarska 14, tel. 22 843 0580, www. trustrentacar.pl

ul. Geodetów 172, Piaseczno, tel. 22 701 7171, www.interdean.com Move One Relocations ul. Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 8160, www.moveonerelo.com Also immigration assistance, fine art shipping, pet transport and consulting services.

useful numbers Foreign Assistance Tel. 608 599 999 / 22 278 7777 Information in English, German and Russian available from June 1st to September 30th from 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. seven days a week.

Tourist Information ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (airport), Rynek Starego Miasto 19/21/21A, Pl. Defilad 1 (PKiN), tel.

22 194 31, warsawtour.pl

RESIDENTS relocation companies Express Relocations ul. Szyszkowa 35/37, tel. 22 878 3539, www.expressrelocations.com Euro Move International Movers ul. Kineskopowa 1, Piaseczno, tel. 22 716 5566, www.euromove.pl AGS Warsaw ul. Julianowska 37, Piaseczno, tel. 22 702 1072, www.agsmovers.com CorstJens Worldwide Movers Group ul. Nowa 23, Stara Iwiczna, tel. 22 737 7200, www.corstjens.com DuX Consulting Agency ul. Panieńska 9/28, tel. 22 670 4280 or 502 216 606 www.duxconsulting.com.pl Express Relocations ul. Szyszkowa 35/37, tel. 22 878 3535, www.expressrelocations.com Euro Move International Movers ul. Kineskopowa 1, Piaseczno, tel. 22 716 5566, www.euromove.pl Interdean International Relocation

106 Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2016

Relo Planet ul. Batalinou Platerówek 3, tel. 22 658 1958, reloplanet.com International, domestic and office removals, corporate and individual relocations, fine art shipping, storage, insurance, as well as a full range of assistance services (immigration, etc.).

services Domestina domestina.pl New to Warsaw, Domestina offer four-hour maid solutions ranging from zł. 129-142. Offering full premium service, they’ll make your bed to match the standard of a five-star hotel, and clean every corner till your flat is spotless! Order and pay online via their English-language website.

storage Więcej Miejsca Tel. 733 002 014, wiecejmiejsca.pl Offers innovative, convenient, door-to-door storage & moving services. Order via their website or phone and the company’s driver will deliver sturdy plastic, tamper-proof bins for storing items such as clothes, books, documents, etc.

They’ll also store larger items, including furniture, and organize local, national and international moves.

polish for foreigners Cup of Polish cupofpolish.com, tel. 508 700 508 Personalized Polish classes adapted to meet your needs. Also home/company visits and online courses. For a free 60-minute trial email: kontakt@cupofpolish.com

community Anglican Church in Warsaw ul. Krakowskie Przedmiescie 62, tel.

880 580 628, anglicanchurch.pl English language services follow the order of the services of the Anglican Communion and are conducted by Rev. David Brown. Services are held each Sunday at 10:30 and 16:00.

International Christian Fellowship ul. Puławska 326, icfwarsaw.org Interdenominational services in English (10:30am, Sunday). Facilities, programs and community activities for all ages: children, students and adults.

InterNations www.internations.org Drawing professionals from home and abroad the mission of InterNations is to bring together ‘global minds’. Now an established part of Warsaw’s social and corporate circuit, their monthly meetings have become Must Do events on schedules round town.

International Women’s Group of Warsaw iwgwarsaw.eu Unites expat women in Warsaw and offers cultural, educational and recreational activities. Meetings are held on the second and fourth Monday of the month.

Professionals in Warsaw meetup.com/Professionals-in-Warsaw New to town? There’s few better ways to give your social life a jump start than popping along to one of the informal drinks mixers conducted

by Professionals in Warsaw. Natives and foreigners of all backgrounds and professions are welcomed – all you have to do is buy your own drinks. Search for them on facebook.

St. Patrick’s Foundation www.irishball.pl The Irish Ball, held on the Saturday closest to St. Patrick’s Day, is legendary in Warsaw as the biggest of the balls. It’s the main annual fund-raiser of the foundation, which distributes the funds raised to various charities over the course of the year.

Taste of the Classics www.fnok.pl A Taste of the Classics is a classical music, fine art and dinner entertainment, held regularly in prime locations.

The events alternate between formal and semi-formal dress and are held in English.

Attendance is by invitation and includes dinner and wine.

listings / in the city Toastmasters International www.toastmasters.org.pl Toastmasters is the international organization for improving public speaking and presentation skills. The local club meets every Wednesday at 19.00.

Guests are always welcome without any obligation apart from a short introduction.

Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. 22 596 4100, kopernik.org.pl Interactive, witty and surprising, Copernicus allows visitors to experience an earthquake, blast recyclable objects into space and become a mystery cracking detective.

museums

CSW ul. Jazdów 2, csw.art.pl Situated in a baroquestyle castle the center hosts artists from all over the world. The on-site bookshop is of particular interest for artists and intellectuals. Ongoing till January 11: Reel-Unreel (Afghan Projects 2010-2014). Polish-born artist Francis Alys presents a selection of paintings, sketches, documents and collages related to his travels around Afghanistan. Forming the centerpiece is his film, Reel-Unreel.

Car Museum ul. Warszawska 21 (Otrębusy), tel. 22 758 5067, muzuem-motorzyacji.com.pl What looks like a cemetery of rust and a tangle of exhaust pipes unravels into Warsaw’s most underrated museum. Find vehicles of every description: Lech Wałesa’s Volvo (with 7cm bullet-proof windows), Gomułka’s ZIS limo, German wartime armor and a pretty-in-pink Buick Skylark – the type favored by Elvis and Marilyn. It’s incredible in its peculiarity, with the random layout, oily smells and dark, cobwebbed corners only adding to the sense of treading somewhere special.

Dom Spotkań z Historią ul. Karowa 20, dsh.waw.pl The History Meeting House wins points for frequently excellent exhibitions that cover topics such as ‘rebuilding Warsaw’ and ‘Socialist Realist architecture.’

It won’t take longer than twenty minutes to peruse whatever exhibition is on, but it’s still a very worthwhile diversion and one of the city’s top secrets. Ongoing until April 6: The Great War in the East (1914-1918). Usually associated with the Western Front, this photographic exhibition aims to redress the balance by covering WWI from an eastern angle.

The Heritage Interpretation Center ul. Brzozowa 11-13, mhw.pl Beginning with a gigantic tapestry of Warsaw circa 1873, this little known venue tells the complex story of Old Town’s reconstruction. Walking over a glass floor, beneath which lies smashed masonry and columns recovered from the ruins, a series of then-and-now slides and pictures document Old Town’s annihilation. If the first section about Warsaw’s physical elimination is poignant, then the others do a fabulous job of sharing the optimism and alacrity that followed.

Historical Museum of Warsaw Rynek Starego Miasta 28/42, mhw.pl The

www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / in the city granddaddy of Warsaw museums is over the worst of a lengthy refit and gradually reopening bit by bit. The ground floor cinema is a must – playing a 20 minute film that details the depressing story behind the destruction of Warsaw.

The Fryderyk Chopin Museum in Warsaw Ostrogski Palace, ul. Okólnik 1, chopin. museum Recognized as one of the most hi-tech museums in Europe, computer chip tickets allow visitors the chance to personalize the museum experience as never before.

Over 5,000 objects are present, among them Chopin’s pocket watch, his last piano, a lock of hair and even his death mask.

Invisible Exhibition Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, niewidzialna.pl Nothing challenges the sense of sight more than a total lack of it. Confused? Head to the Invisible Exhibition to learn first-hand the challenges faced by the blind. This includes everything from crossing the road to ordering a drink in a bar.

Jewish Historical Institute ul. Tłomackie 3/5, jhi.pl Officially opened in 1947 the Jewish Historical Institute was created to serve as an archive of Jewish culture in Warsaw. It contains artwork, historical artifacts and important documents from the city’s rich Jewish past.

Królikarnia ul. Puławska 113A, krolikarnia.mnw.art.pl

Fine art galore inside an elegant suburban palace. The young curator has decided to show some forgotten treasures from the rich archives of the National Museum.

The gallery also hosts more contemporary works, such as those by Nicolas Grospierre and Agnieszka Polska. Łazienki Królewskie ul. Agrykoli 1, lazienki-krolewskie.pl Situated in the picturesque park which once housed the residence of King Stanisław August this museum includes paintings and furniture from one of the most glorious periods in Poland’s history, as well as temporary exhibitions of more modern work.

Legia Museum ul. Łazienkowska 6, legia.com Aside from silverware affirming Legia’s status, find a vast collection of shirts, pennants and paintings (even part of an old floodlight).

Pride of place goes to Legia’s favorite son, 70’s super star Kazimierz Deyna.

Museum of the Blessed Father Jerzy Popieluszko ul. Hozjusza 2, popieluszko.pl A museum in the basement of the church relates the story of Jerzy Popiełuszko, the Solidarity priest murdered by the communist security forces. Even his family cradle is here. But things take a darker twist, and having crept past a militia baton and a pair of handcuffs visitors suddenly find themselves in a shadowy room beaming shots of his

brutally beaten corpse.

Museum of Communist Life ul. Glucha (opposite Soho Factory), tel.

606 225 525, adventurewarsaw.com Run by the excellent Adventure Warsaw tour guide company, the Museum of Communist Life brings together aspects of communist life through dioramas that present typical living quarters of the time and a milk bar. Displays are numerous and quirky, and include a restored Saturator machine, a collection of commie hoovers, not to mention medals from the owner’s own family. A must see!

Polin - Museum of the History of Polish Jews ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl Composed of eight galleries, each covers a different stage of local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day. Covering 4,000 sq/m, highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec synagogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical interwar Jewish Warsaw street.

Museum of Technology Palace of Culture, pl. Defilad 1, muzeumtechniki.warszawa.pl Following a maze-like route in the Palace of Culture, there’s curios aplenty: a Viennese calculator dating from 1898 that’s still in working order; a glowing ‘glass lady’ that lights up to demonstrate the inner workings of the body; communist era sports cars; a WWII Enigma machine. More pertinent to the younger generation, there’s

Get 12 issues for the price of 6 (60 zł) WARSAWPASS & CHOPINPASS Valid for 24, 48 and 72-hour periods, the Warsaw Pass enables holders to hop on and off a bus ploughing the main tourist routes, as well as free entry (and the ability to ‘skip the line’) to numerous attractions including Polin, the PKiN viewing platform, Royal Castle, Copernicus Science Centre and many more besides. Discounts for tours and restaurants are also part of the package.

For full details, see: warsawpass.com

SUBSCRIBE AND SAVE! Email: insider@warsawinsider.pl

108 Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2016

Also, be sure to pick up the ChopinPASS, a package that includes admission to the Chopin Museum and to the birthplace of Fryderyk Chopin in Żelazowa Wola, as well as direct transportation between these two institutions. For details, see: ChopinPass.com

listings / in the city a selection of vintage phones and laptop computers that hipsters would give their life for, not to mention hilarious TVs from days yore.

National Museum Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars.

The Neon Museum ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org This amazing project brings together the neon lights that once illuminated the city. Among the collection are 35 landmark signs, many of which date from the 60s and 70s.

important buildings from Warsaw’s past, the zł. 12 admission is certainly worth it. Brilliant details abound in this Lilliputian world, with helpful English explanations accompanying the models.

The Warsaw Amber Museum Rynek Starego Miasta 4/6, bursztynek.co Part of Bursztynek, a dedicated amber shop, has been turned into a curious museum detailing the history of amber.

Pawiak ul. Dzielna 24/26 What was once a Tsarist prison assumed a doubly sinister function under the Nazis. Some 100,000 Polish political prisoners were held here, 37,000 of which were executed on-site. Split in two sections, cells are found on one side, while on the other the full story of the invasion and occupation.

Warsaw Rising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl Cope with the crowds to discover the definitive story of the 1944 Uprising. Exhibits range from a full-size replica of a Liberator plane, to a sewer beneath the cinema screen and a slice of bread preserved from 1944. And don’t miss the ‘City of Ruins’, a five minute 3D film which takes you on an aerial journey over devastated Warsaw.

Poster Museum in Wilanów ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 10/16, postermuseum.pl With a collection that touches the 55,000 mark, here’s the biggest poster museum in the world – and also the original. Art spans the period from 1892 till 2002, and while the majority is Polish orientated works on display also include those by Dali and Warhol.

Palmiry National Memorial Museum palmiry, palmiry.mhw.pl An excellent multimedia exhibition set next to a cemetery holding the graves of 1,700 Poles executed in the first years of Nazi occupation. The museum tells their forgotten story, with archival video footage complimented by exhumed exhibits and plenty of background info dealing with the siege and subsequent occupation of Warsaw.

The Royal Castle in Warsaw Pl. Zamkowy 4, zamek-krolewski.pl Meticulously restored after WWII, highlights inside include the lavishly restored 18th century royal apartments with 22 paintings by Bernardo Bellotto (known as Canaletto), the Senators’ Chamber in which the Constitution of the Third of May was signed, the biggest collection of oriental rugs in Europe in the tinroofed palace and two remarkable Rembrandt paintings.

Park Miniatur ul. Bracka 25 (Dom Jabłońskich, level -1), pl.miniaturymazowieckie.com Although the park consists of only eight 1:25 scale models of some of the most beautiful and

Wola Museum ul. Srebrna 12, mhw.pl There’s the New Varsovians exhibition, dedicated to the young students who arrived to Warsaw in the 1860s and 70s, and the Wola Laboratory, a multimedia exhibition with a focus on the district. All this new wave gadgetry is to be augmented by real objects on the first floor, not to mention an archive of amateur film – the first such archive in Poland Zachęta National Art Gallery Pl. Małachowskiego 3, zacheta.art.pl Featuring in the collection are works by Toulouse-Lautrec, Cezanne, Ernst and Picasso, as well as luminaries of the Polish art scene such as Tadeusz Kantor, Alina Szapocznikow, Katarzyna Kozyra and Zbigniew Libera.

w W a r s a www.city-tour.com.pl

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Traveling over the course of approximately 1,5 hour, a double-decker bus will take you past many beautiful and interesting places of Warsaw, such as its interesting districts, palaces and churches, monuments and museums, parks and historical cemeteries, as well as the Jewish historical sites.

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Saints & Sinners

Sorting the good from the bad, St. Nicholas flits through town on December 6th as part of a time honored tradition that goes back centuries... BY STUART DOWELL

W

hen I was a boy, the appearance of an advent calendar on the mantelpiece at the start of December meant that Christmas, with all its pregnant expectation, was just around the corner. Meanwhile, in Poland, apple-cheeked children await impatiently on December 6th for the bringer of gifts, Saint Nicholas, which well and truly gets the Christmas period off to a start.

St. Nicholas Day (or Mikołajki in Polish) celebrates the feast of St. Nicholas of Myra, in modern-day Turkey, who after inheriting a fortune from his parents, decided to use his wealth for the force of good. Legend tells us that an impoverished neighbor was about to send his three daughters onto the street so he could live from the proceeds of their dishonor. When Nicholas heard, he wrapped pieces of gold in a cloth and threw the bundle through his neighbor’s window at night, then left without saying a word.

The cult of St. Nicholas has been known since the sixth century,

112 Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2016

though it only started to be celebrated in Poland in the thirteenth century. Children were not quite so indulged then as they are now.

In those early days, parents would inform the local priest about their children’s misdemeanors, after which he would visit their homes and threaten them with a stick. As child-care standards improved, an errant minor, instead of being beaten, would receive a twig or a piece of coal instead of a real gift.

Over time, the giving of alms and assistance to the poor evolved into today’s custom of each child receiving a gift, the size of which being linked to their behavior over the previous year.

When large parts of Poland came under Prussian influence after the partitions, the cult of St. Nicholas was pushed to the 25th along with the introduction of decorating Christmas trees. The old ways stuck though, and now in Poland we have the unusual situation in which St. Nicholas appears twice: in his main role on the 6th, and then in a cameo on the 25th alongside the stars of the New Testament. It has become an essential skill for Polish parents to explain this anomaly to their inquisitive offspring and one for which the Catholic church’s marriage lessons are sorely inadequate.

This year on 6th December, remember that giving children presents is not another holiday invented by retailers to bolster their already healthy December profits. It is a tradition that goes back hundreds of years, born from a noble desire to help the weak, the young and the poor, which over time has developed into a joyous holiday for children.

PHOTOGRAPH SHUTTERSTOCK

LOOKING BACK