Warsaw Insider September 2016 #241

Warsaw The Capital’s Original City Magazine Since 1996

SEPTEMBER 2016

EST. 1996

241 09/2016

INDEKS 334901 ISSN:1643-1723

#

zł.10

(VAT 8% included)

• Beginner’s Guide To Warsaw • Poland’s Nuclear Secret • Film, Books & Music • A Dream Of A City • Łazienki Condensed

ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER ALEXANDRE BIRMAN ANYA HINDMARCH AQUAZZURA BALMAIN BUSCEMI CASADEI CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN FRANCESCO RUSSO GIANVITO ROSSI HERVE LEGER ISABEL MARANT KENZO KOTUR MAISON MICHEL ONE TEASPOON SELF – PORTRAIT TOD’S TORY BURCH VALENTINO VICTORIA BECKHAM YVES SALOMON

Moliera 2 tel.: 228277099, www.Moliera2.com

SEPTEMBER 2016 Editor-in-chief Alex Webber

insider@warsawinsider.pl Art Director Kevin Demaria insider@warsawinsider.pl Fashion & Style Editor Małgosia Krakowska mkrakowska@valkea.com Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com Contributors: Stuart Dowell Michał Miszkurka Ed Wight Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com Senior Key Account Manager A. Julita Pryzmont jpryzmont@valkea.com ey Account Manager K Agata Sicińska asicinska@valkea.com

INFRONT

News Opener 9 CIty News 10 Exhibition 12 Essential Warsaw Music 14 Books 16 Film 18

FEATURES

Green To Warsaw Beginner’s Guide 20 Łazienki Park 26 Urban Exploration Nuclear Warsaw 30

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REVIEWS

Pełną Parą Na Nowo 34 Polish Cider 35 Sawa 36 Dorbze Co-op 38 Warsaw Beer Week 38 Bohemia 38 Fokim 40 La Sirena 42

LISTINGS

Restaurants 45 Cafes & Wine Bars 75 Nightlife 80 Shopping 85

Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2016

Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

Family 92 Health & Beauty 97 In the City 106

PARTNER NEWS

The latest marketplace news from the Warsaw Insider’s friends and advertisers… 43

INBACK

Map 110 Looking Back 112

Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com Subscription 12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland.

Orders can be placed through: insider@warsawinsider.pl Printed by Zakład Poligraficzny TECHGRAF Tel. (17) 225-28-69 VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies.

All information ©2016 Warsaw Insider.

on the cover New to town this month?

Discovering Warsaw for the first time isn’t far removed from exploring a new planet, hence our artist has plumped for a space age theme for our Green to Warsaw issue…

(Illustration by Michał Miszkurka)

PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT

As a wizened Kermit the Frog once sang, ‘It’s not easy being green’. With the holiday season over, September never fails to deliver a new draft of expats taking their first faltering steps. For the benefit of the newcomers (hi there!), we’ve once again drawn up a foolproof introduction to the Polish capital. Keeping to the theme of green, we’ve also gone on patrol around Łazienki Park and explored the city’s growing eco fashion scene. And, just for the sake of contrast, we’ve peered behind an Iron Curtain to find out the story behind Warsaw’s nuclear secret… As always, I hope you enjoy it and see you next month!

BUSCEMI MEN CANADA GOOSE CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN MEN FAY GIANVITO ROSSI MEN HOGAN KENZO MONCLER MR&MRS ITALY ONE TEASPOON RALPH LAUREN TORY BURCH VALENTINO MEN BURBERRY CHILDREN DSQUARED2 KIDS KENZO KIDS MONCLER KIDS RALPH LAUREN KIDS TOD’S KIDS

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 tel.: +48 226221416, www.PlacTrzechKrzyzy.com

this month...

CONCERT

FESTIVAL

Every Sunday, 12:00 & 16:00 @ Chopin Statue, Łazienki Park Listen to some of Poland’s top talents – young and old – recite works from Chopin’s oeuvre in the rose-fringed gardens of Łazienki Park. The Sunday concerts run each summer and attract crowds of hundreds.

2-18 Sept @ Muzeum Łazienki, ul. Agrykoli 1 The only festival in Poland dedicated to Baroque opera. The works of Handel, Vinci and Caldara will be presented along with concerts set to take place on the ‘Palace on the Isle.’

Chopin in the Park

FOOD

EVENT

Every Fri-Sun @ ul. Towarowa 3 More than just food trucks, the Nocny Market’s line-up includes local restaurants, craft stalls, a bar, and even a tattoo studio. It’s been the smash of the summer and it’s finishing this month!

Open from 5 p.m. on Fri/Sat, and from 4 p.m. on Sun.

3 Sept @ ul. Ząbkowska This celebration of Praga will see a variety of events on and around ul.

Ząbkowska. Highlights include performances by Kazik & the ProForma Quartet and the Reggae Rockers.

Singer’s 12th Jewish Culture Festival

One of the oldest Polish horse races is modelled on the French Grand Prix de Paris, and is an epic family day with a heavy pre-war accent.

Tor Służewiec ul. Puławska 226, torsluzewiec.pl

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Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2016

Tickets zł. 20-100

Nocny Market

FESTIVAL

Editor’s Pick Wielka Warszawska Race

2nd Festival of Baroque Music

Ongoing till 4 Sept @ various locations Regarded as one of Europe’s most anticipated festivals of Jewish culture, over 200 events are planned and these include screenings, guided walks, concerts and workshops with Próżna and Pl. Grzybowski being the focal point. Taken on its own, the street party vibe makes it completely unmissable.

For schedule, see: festiwalsingera.pl

Night of Praga

For info, see: twoja-praga.pl

FESTIVAL

Warsaw Drum Festival 7-9 Sept@ Palladium, ul. Złota 9 This three-day festival will feature workshops, concerts and ‘musical madness’ – their words, not ours. Performers include Coma, Poluzjanci and Sorry Boys.

Tickets zł. 60 @ eventim.pl

CONCERT

Reni Jusis 4 Sept, 8 p.m. @ Stacja Mercedes,

crossroads of Kruczkowskiego / 3 Maja A Polish icon when it comes to the electronic genre, the sound of Reni Jusis mashes up experimental techno with retro pop and hip hop beats. This concert will be the last one of the year at Stacja Mercedes.

For info, see: fb.com/StacjaMercedes

FESTIVAL

International Festival of Contemporary Music 16-24 Sept @ various locations A variety of locations (including the Królikarnia Sculpture Park, CSW, Soho Factory, etc.) will play host to a number of workshops, meetings, debates and performances that will involve all manner of weird and avant garde instruments.

For info, see: warszawska-jesien.art.pl

CONCERT

Nickelback 21 Sept, 8 p.m. @ Torwar, ul. Łazienkowska 6A With 50 million album sales to their name, Canadian post-grunge rockers Nickelback need little introduction.

Anticipate their greatest hits to be rolled out in their inimitable style.

Tickets from zł. 190 @ eventim.pl

FESTIVAL

Cross Culture Festival 24 Sept-1 Oct @ various locations The twelfth edition of this annual festival will promote cultural and musical diversity, and will feature workshops and debates as well as concerts from Renata Rpsa (Brazil), Ghada Shbeir (Lebanon) and Ester Rada (Israel).

For info, see: festival.warszawa.pl

SPORT

Warsaw Marathon 25 Sept, 9:00 @ Most Poniatowskiego The 38th edition of the Warsaw Marathon follows a 42-kilometer route that takes in many of the city’s highlights: among them Łazienki and the Royal Castle. Beginning at Most Poniatowskiego, and concluding at the National Stadium, the run is expected to draw over 8,500 participants.

MEDIA PATRONAGE BEEN & GONE

AL KHALEDIAH EUROPEAN ARABIAN HORSE FESTIVAL

Organized for the third time under the patronage of the Saudi Arabian Al Khalediah Stud, this three-day festival – held back in August – saw 100 pedigree horses descend on Warsaw to strut their stuff. “The majority of Saudi Arabians view Poland as the second homeland of their national heritage – the majestic Arabian horse”, said the Festival’s General Director Hubert Kulesza. An international judging panel chose the most beautiful horses, with three gold medals going to the Ajman Stud (UAE), one to the German Gestüt Osterhof, another to the Saudi owner Sami Ben Saad and one to the Al Baydaa Stud from Egypt.

MEDIA PATRONAGE

THE 48 HOUR MOVIE PROJECT

23-25 Sept @ ul. Wałbrzyska 3/5 (National Audiovisual Institute Warsaw)

Adrenaline, creativity, excitement and fun: the upcoming 48 Hour Movie Project has all this and more.

This year’s competition takes place in Warsaw with teams from the whole of Poland invited to apply (deadline: Sept 13th). Registered teams will have just two days to make a movie from scratch: from the writing, all the way to shooting, editing and the creation of a soundtrack. Aside from general acclaim, the winning entry will also be screened at the 2016 Filmapalooza Movie Festival in Savannah. Furthermore, successful projects will be considered for entry into the prestigious Cannes Film Festival 2017, Court Metrage. For further details, see: 48hourfilm.com/warsaw

MEDIA PATRONAGE COMING SOON

FIVE FLAVOURS FILM FESTIVAL

November 16-23 Kinoteka (PKiN, Pl. Defilad 1) & Kino Muranów (ul. Andersa 5) piecsmakow.pl

The only overview of cinema from South and South-East Asia in Poland, the 10th edition of the Five Flavours includes a category devoted to New Asian Cinema. Other festival highlights include a looks at the films of Sion Sono, one of the most original contemporary Japanese directors around. Furthermore, the ‘Warriors’ category sets the spotlight on martial arts movies, while another chapter will be devoted to the cinematic output of North Korea. As always, expect workshops, seminars and Q&A sessions with directors to pad out the festival’s schedule.

For info, see: pzumaratonwarszawski.com

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in

What’s hot, what’s not: the faces and stories trending around town BIEDRONKA IN NUMBERS!

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Billion złotys

Estimated turnover of Biedronka

6.95 Billion Euro

Revenue generated by Biedronka’s owners in H1 of 2016

182

Million Euro

Net profit recorded by Biedronka in H1 of 2016

55,000 People

Employed by Biedronka nationwide

3,000 Biedronkas

Envisioned for the future LOCAL

PHOTOGRAPH COLLAGE KEVIN DEMARIA

The Attack Of The Ladybug!

Local campaigners have been left seething after it was announced that – contrary to initial promises – the historic Femina cinema is unlikely to ever resume a cultural role. The landmark movie house, sold in 2014 to budget supermarket chain Biedronka (ladybug in English), had been subject to a vociferous campaign to keep it alive, with one supportive Facebook page attracting close to 25,000 likes. Faced with such protests, Biedronka had originally declared their intention to preserve the building’s cinematic legacy by reopening one screen once the supermarket was up and running. Now, nearly two years after Femina closed its doors, Biedronka have seemingly backtracked on their pledge citing problems with building permits. While they have at least confirmed that the cinema’s iconic neon will remain in place, protestors see this as little more than a token move. “We’ve been cheated,” said Karol Perkowski, “first they said there will be a cinema and now they say there won’t.”

Built in 1935, Kino Femina had been Warsaw’s longest-running cinema until its closure.

Having survived WWII (during which time it served as a German cabaret, then a Jewish theater which saw performances by Maria Ajzensztadt, a.k.a. The Nightingale of the Ghetto), it went onto become one of the capital’s best loved cinemas: during one record breaking run, over 117,000 people watched Ogniem i Mieczem. Now, hopes that it will ever hold screenings again appear to have faded. (AW)

2,693 Biedronkas In Poland

1995 The year…

Biedronka was founded

40

The number of…

New Biedronka’s opened so far in 2016

10

Percent

The annual year-on-year revenue increase recorded

by Biedronka www.warsawinsider.pl

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inFront

news

TOURISM

Pack Your Sputnik And Go! Warsaw’s Technology Museum could be on the move after it was revealed that its directors were considering an offer from Bydgoszcz town council to rehouse the institution. Located in the Palace of Culture since 1955, the sprawling museum is struggling financially and said to owe its current landlord something in the region of zł. 900,000.

NATIONAL

Off The Bat A Szceczin-based firm has sparked outrage after creating a range of baseball bats adorned with ‘the Little Insurgent’. Modeled on a 13-year-old boy killed in combat during the 1944 Warsaw Uprising, ‘the Little Insurgent’ statue is usually treated with all the reverence of a sacred site.

LEGAL

the term ‘Polish death camp’ can now land you a three-year jail sentence after the government approved a bill banning the phrase altogether. “The implication that Poland was somehow to blame for the Holocaust,” said a spokesman, “is completely incorrect and must be set right.”

PETS

Dog Days

Life for Warsaw’s army of dog owners just got easier thanks to a new scheme that aims to highlight the increasing number of mutt-friendly venues in the city. The brainchild of the Miasto Jest Nasze organization, bars, restaurants and stores can now register for a decal that announces them as a Miejsc Przyjaznych Psom (Dog Friendly Place). Mimicking similar projects in Western Europe, the initiative saw 40 places sign-up within days of its launch. For an interactive map detailing where your hound is welcome, check: miastojestnasze.org/mpp

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Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2016

PHOTOGRAPHS CLOCKWISE FROM BOTTOM, MARINA KRYVOROTOVA, ED WIGHT, SHUTTERSTOCK

Can’t Say That Four years after President Obama himself used it in a speech, using

inFront

exhibition

A Lost World

A new book and exhibition present the dreamy photographs of Zbyszko Siemaszko…

N

ot for the first time, DSH, one of capital’s finest cultural institutions, has joined forces with the illustrious Forum photographic agency to release a book that showcases the city in a completely new light. A celebration of the work of Zbyszko Siemaszko, this concise little album is a compelling endeavor that presents the Warsaw of the 50s and 60s in a series of carefully crafted photos. Siemaszko died last year, but his legacy lives on through his images that capture a surreal town far removed from what we know. “They are an idealistic illusion,” writes Katarzyna Madoń-Mitzner in her foreword, “a dream of a modern metropolis, a new city which had arisen out of the rubble of the old one.” A stunning exploration of the not-so-distant past, Dream of a City is a sensitive tribute to this venerated photographer.

Sen O Mieście / Dream of a City

To coincide with the book, view and exhibition of Siemaszko’s photography at Dom Spotkań z Historią (ul. Karowa 20).

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Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2016

www.warsawinsider.pl

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inFront

essential warsaw

Love Will Come Through Travis Where do a group of melancholic Scottish gloom-mongers head once they’ve exhausted all filming locations back home? Praga.

Shot in the midst of an especially grisly winter, the video to this tune plays out with the Jamnik (‘sausage dog’) building opposite Dw. Wschodni in the background.

Walls Come Tumbling Down The Style Council The British rockers famously recorded the vid to Walls Come Tumbling Down in front of a muted audience in Akwarium Jazz Club (since demolished to make way for the InterConti) before embarking on a tram ride across bleak mid-80s Praga.

“Would you ever go back,” they were asked on returning to Britain. “No,” came the terse reply.

Ys –LbIoSth Tdomeedsbticy A L P W As bRanSdsAandbmeeunsicsuiaffinciehenirtlywmorokvs.

W u o in t ave er

Num foreign – h to feature it and Warsaw

Warsaw Joy Division

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Sen o Warszawie Czesław Niemen

Warszawa David Bowie

A classic 60s sing-along anthem from the pen of ‘the Polish Bob Dylan’, this epic ode to Warsaw is steeped in sentimentality. Lustily recited before each Legia home game, hearing 30,000 blokes belting it out makes the hairs on the back of your neck stand on end.

Making the most of a brief stopover at Dw. Gdański, David Bowie set off on foot to Pl. Wilsona where he explored the area and visited a record store.

This short foray into Żoliborz was enough to stir him to write Warszawa, an eerie instrumental recorded in 1976.

Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2016

Warszawa T.Love This rousing Polish rock classic is best appreciated in the midst of a bout of vodka-fueled psychosis.

A raw and unrelenting paean to the capital, the legendary lyrics (‘zielony Żoliborz, pieprzony Żoliborz’ / ‘green Żoliborz, fu*king Żoliborz’) are chiseled into folklore.

Inspired by the dark mood of Bowie’s LP, Joy Division originally started out as Warsaw, only changing their name after a band called Warsaw Pakt emerged on the late 70s British scene.

Nonetheless, they went ahead and recorded a track called Warsaw.

Oddly, rather than being about the Polish capital it’s actually a ‘lyrical biography’ of Rudolf Hess.

BREAKFAST

LUNCH

DINNER

Fresh flavours and innovation from across the globe

inFront

essential warsaw

Neon Warszawa Ilona Karwińska

READING LIST

Where once English-language sections of bookstores were dominated by ‘the war’, today an increasingly diverse range of titles do their bit to expose the different faces of the Polish capital.

Polish Pills Fanny Vaucher Accompanied by the author’s own witty illustrations, Polish Pills views Warsaw through the eyes of a baffled foreigner, and faces the odd little conundrums that bamboozle us all: what makes all the old ladies so angry? Why don’t cashiers have change?

And what’s with all the dubbing? Mischievous and original, it does more to lay Warsaw’s secrets bare than any guidebook out there.

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Żol/Mok/Och/ Sas Various authors Produced by Centrum Architektury, this series of books zoom in on the individual suburbs of Żoliborz, Mokotów, Ochota and Saska Kępa. Presented in Polish and English, and accompanied by the illustrative renderings of Magdalena Piwowar, they offer exquisite, expert insight into the everyday buildings you might otherwise ignore.

London-based photographer Ilona Karwińska has worked tirelessly to bring attention to the fate of Polish Cold War-era neon. Having co-founded Warsaw’s Neon Museum, and published numerous titles dedicated to the topic, her latest book pours the spotlight on the capital’s own dalliance with luminescent advertising. “

Wawa Bla Bla Gill BoelmanBurrows What began as a Facebook page documenting one expat’s love affair with Warsaw’s street art has grown into a book that charts the development of this burgeoning and at times secretive scene. And why not get a signed copy? Do so by visiting the author’s cult art store (also named Wawa Bla Bla) on ul. Dobra 15.

Rising ’44 Norman Davies That even Poles regard the British historian Norman Davies as the foremost chronicler of the nation’s history speaks volumes. While his epic retelling of the Warsaw Uprising lacks the verve and pace of many of his peers, few stones are left unturned in this magnum opus.

inFront

essential warsaw Miś

The film adaptation of Władysław Szpilman’s riveting true tale of survival in the Jewish Ghetto dominated the 2003 Oscars, receiving gongs for Best Actor, Director and Screenplay.

Even allowing for the passage of time, Roman Polanski’s masterpiece hasn’t aged one bit with IMDB users bestowing it with an 8.5 rating.

Several scenes were shot in Praga and around Krakowskie Przedmieście.

One of the best loved Polish films of all times is a breezy comedy that tells the story of a separated couple’s race to access their joint savings account in London. Exposing the absurd complexities of life under communism, even non-Polish speakers find themselves sucked into the bewildering world of 80s Poland.

Przygoda Na Mariensztacie

the Warsaw it depicts: a jolly city in the midst of rebirth. Laced with propaganda, seeing the city being rebuilt in the background is remarkable in itself. As expected, the Mariensztat district is prominent, but so too are Old Town, Muranów and MDM square.

A Very Polish Practice This feature-length spin-off of the British drama/comedy A Very Peculiar Practice finds the protagonist, Dr. Darker, working in early 90s Warsaw. ven those new to this bizarrely odd series will thrill at the decrepit, post-Communist capital that forms the backdrop.

Kick Not long back Warsaw found itself visited by Bollywood royalty for the filming of Kick, an ‘action comedy’ that has in turn been described as everything from a ‘masala movie spiced with the superstardom of Salman Khan’, to a ‘brainless romp’.

Hilariously overacted and ludicrous in plot, the flick includes a bus chase through the Polish capital that culminates in a double decker plunging off Most Gdański.

h oug s thr reel me sift ow r so d We sh ove t an the o unc e bes lms to the t h fi d of t orst ecte w n … con ation n

TCH WA IST L

The Pianist

Released in 1954, Adventure in Mariensztat was Poland’s first ever color movie. An early rom com of sorts, while its widely derided as an actual film, it makes for compelling viewing on account of

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Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2016

Ashes & Diamonds Starring Zbigniew Cybulski (a.k.a. The Polish James Dean), fans of Andrzej Wajda’s 1958 classic include Martin Scorsese and Francis Ford Coppola. Says Criterion: “gorgeously photographed and bril-

liantly performed, Ashes and Diamonds masterfully interweaves the fate of a nation with that of one man, resulting in one of the most important Polish films of all time.”

This film is a powerful exploration of the social catastrophe faced in the post-war period.

The recently opened restaurant and bar Mokotowska 69 is a perfect place for those who enjoy refined food and excellent wine.

The restaurant offers classic Polish dishes with a modern twist, delicious steaks and a wide range of wine from all over the world.

Mokotowska 69 was designed for those who enjoy Polish cuisine and those who would like to try classic Polish dishes with a modern twist, such as Mazurian crayfish in rowan brandy cream sauce, roasted catfish with pearl barley and beets or roasted duck with pears and blackcurrant. The restaurant also specialises in steaks made from American Black Angus (certified prime grade by the USDA), Scottish Aberdeen Angus and the highest quality Japanese Tajima-gyu cattle, “Kobe-style”: class 5, marbling 9+. ul. Mokotowska 69, tel. (+48 22) 628 73 84 / (+48 22) 627 20 33, www.mokotowska69.pl

The restaurant and wine store Merliniego 5, located vis-à- vis the main entrance to the Warszawianka Aqua Park, is the ideal place for those who love good food and fantastic wines. Merliniego 5 specialises in seafood dishes and steaks made of American Black Angus (prime beef USDA certified), especially selected from the New York-based OTTOMANELLI & SONS butchery. The restaurant also serves steaks made of the Aberdeen Angus and top quality Japanese beef from Tajima cattle, “Kobe style” (grade 5A/BMS 9+). Further, menu offers seasonal and traditional Polish cuisine dishes. At the end of 2011, the readers of Gazeta Stołeczna granted us the prestigious title of Knajpa Roku 2011 (Eating Establishment of the Year 2011). Since 2013 we have also been listed in the Michelin Guide. ul. Merliniego 5, tel. (+48 22) 646 08 10 / (+48 22) 646 08 49, www.merliniego5.pl

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Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2016

After possibly the wettest, wimpiest August in living memory, it’s almost a relief that the holiday season is over. But September doesn’t just mean back to work, it traditionally means a new intake of expats. For the benefit of those giddy, fresh arrivals, this issue we break down essential Warsaw into digestible, snack-sized pieces...

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GREEN TO WARSAW EAT / DRINK MOD

THE TOP TABLE

That they own the only Michelin stars in Poland says much about both Senses and Atelier Amaro: moments of pure theater are matched by cooking of such inspiration it often distorts into fantasy. L’enfant Terrible enjoy a similarly adventurous reputation though a far less stuffy atmosphere. Compared to that trio, Nolita is far more sensible in its approach, yet for many – us included – it’s Warsaw’s biggest ticket when it comes to fine dining moments.

GREEN V RED

War is being waged between vegans and carnivores: on the blood red side, Merliniego 5 and Butchery & Wine do splendid stuff, while lower down the ladder, Pogromcy Meatów have nailed it just right for those with shallow pockets. Then there’s the green side: Veg Deli are capable of magic, however, it’s Momencik that take the vegan philosophy to dizzy, new heights: find simply excellent interpretations of Mexican food.

WHO’S HUNGRY? Joseph’s Wine & Bistro

LOCAL LEADERS

Handicapped by memories of communism, Polish food often brings to mind visions of ugly, grey ooze glooped to a plate. Perceptions are changing thanks to a new generation of chefs determined to showcase the nation’s abundant natural resources. Great things happen at Mała Polana Smaków, Zielony Niedzwieź and Dom Wódki, though in our eye, no-one does it better than Aleksander Baron at Solec 44.

FOLLOW FASHION

Warsaw is like a crocodile when it comes to trends, rattling them relentlessly till they’re dead in the water.

Sushi hand rolls are especially big this year, though we’ve yet to locate anywhere we’d return. More successful has been the Mexican Revolution: leading from the front are La Sirena.

I’M BROKE!

Uki Uki

You can still eat well even when the bank account reminds you of ‘insufficient funds’. Kaskrut make fancy culinary art affordable, as do the billions of lunch menus that most restaurants offer: for fine dining, Concept 15 isn’t so much a deal as it is a total steal. In September, also check out the Nocny Market, a brill selection of street food stalls found at a derelict train station.

FOREIGN FLAVOR

Many of Warsaw’s ethnic options are unremarkable. So salutes are due to Syrian-run Falafel Bejrut, Japanese ramen joint Uki Uki and the swish Argentinean-owned Ceviche Bar. MOD do wonders with their Malaysian chef, Tris, mixing up his French culinary background with his Asian heritage, while a final big shout goes to Botswanan Joseph Seeletso: his upmarket menu is modern European though with exciting hints of unexpected exotica.

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SHOTS AWAY

There’s a common tendency to associate vodka with bloodlust and blackouts. Drinking in some of the shot bars, you can see why: places like Meta, Pijalnia and Bar Warszawa all offer a high octane environment lapped up by lads and ladies in previously undiscovered stages of oblivion. Not everywhere is one stop from a lobotomy: Dom Wódki offer 200+ ‘boutique’ vodkas that afford the national drink a veneer of sophistication.

6 Cocktails

GRAPE EXPECTATIONS?

Wine bar culture is young but hopes are high for this fledgling scene. The Mielżyński ‘chain’ (there’s two!) is the historical benchmark, though competition is gradually emerging. Ale Wino do everything right, though this year has been a tale of two D’s: Dekant and Dyletanci. In the latter, aside from top class international wines, find impressive efforts from the proprietor’s own vineyard.

MIX & MATCH

Sweeping changes have seen Warsaw’s cocktail sphere come of age. No mistake, there’s still plenty of bars that manage to cock it all up with schoolboy recipes executed by flap-handed bozos, but they’ve been outmaneuvered by a range of new venues that have popped up like toast. Weles, The Roots, Woda Ognista and 6 Cocktails are the tip of the iceberg, serving up drinks that are the liquid interpretation of fine art. For something more classic, then Bar & Books conquer new ground with exceptional modern takes of time-old favorites.

Hydrozagadka

UNDERGROUND SOUND

Be careful: live music often means X Factor cast-offs or (and in some cases both) talent challenged expats howling Bon Jovi covers like beaten cats. But simmering below the surface are a clutch of venues that break the boundaries with truly (experi)mental talent. Eufemia and Hydrozagadka push frontiers by promoting alternative sounds, though nowhere delivers in quite the same manner as the audacious Pardon To Tu.

LET’S GO OUT! BEERMUDA TRIANGLE

It’s not so much a triangle as it is a beautifully clotted jam of craft beer pubs. The spiritual heart is Nowogrodzka street, where Jabeerwocky and Kufle i Kapsle are engaged in a good natured battle of the best. Within walking distance, drinkers looking to explore the quite crazy heights that Polish brewing has reached are spoiled for choice with the likes of Cuda Na Kiju, Bibenda, Hoppiness, Beerokracja and Spiskowcy Rozkoszy. Even British ‘punk’ brewing giants BrewDog are now involved, encroaching on Polish territory with a landmark bar of their own. As introductions to local beer go, keep an eye out for Warsaw Beer Week (September 12th until 18th) and the Warsaw Beer Festival (October 13th till 16th).

Kufle i Kapsle

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GREEN TO WARSAW SEE / SHOP Neon Museum

PRE-WAR

The Old Town, rebuilt from scratch after the Germans famously visited as more than just tourists, is the first stop for all. For a taste of Poland’s Imperial Age, then Łazienki Park is a magical flashback. Gritty reality awaits wandering the pre-war streets of Old Praga, while for something less raw then a stroll around the modernist interwar constructions of Saska Kępa is always pleasant. Above all, never forget to pay tribute to Chopin: the museum dedicated to his memory is stunning.

WAR

Saska Kępa

A raw wound that continues to fester, the war is never far away here: reminders come on nearly every corner by way of discreet memorials to those massacred by the Nazis. Learn more by visiting The Rising Museum, or pop by the Old Town’s ‘Heritage Centre’ to find out about the destruction of the city. Three separate museums, Pawiak, Szucha and Katyń, cover particularly distressing moments in this town’s traumatic history.

From a Jewish aspect, Muranów was the heart of the Ghetto: many memorials exist, though visit the Polin Museum for a more in-depth explanation as to the horrors of the Holocaust.

COMMUNISM

A top-to-bottom tour of Stalin’s Palace of Culture is recommended: the basements are thrilling and best viewed under the guidance of CREATours (creatours.pl).

Other architectural landmarks include the ‘My God It’s Hideous’ Pl. Konstytucji. Marvel at a more ambient side to Communism in the Neon Museum and then visit The Museum of Life Under Communism: it’s tiny, thoughtful but also good fun. While you’re there, jump into a busted militia wagon and take one of their commiethemed tours.

SIGHTSEEING POST COMMUNISM

National Stadium

Wonder amid romping kids and whirring machines in the Copernicus Science Centre, and after take in the glorious dusk views on the rooftop garden of the University Library. Across the river, the state-of-the-art National Stadium conducts regular tours. Whilst Polin – the Museum of the History of Polish Jews – covers a subject that is almost ancient in scope, it does so in a manner that’s astonishingly innovative: no wonder it was voted Europe’s Best Museum earlier this year.

ART

Serious art lovers gravitate to the National Museum for its determined presentation of art through the ages. The Zachęta and CSW are more alternative with captivating exhibitions. But Warsaw’s best art is found on the streets: search out the massive wall murals of Praga or puzzle over installations such as the city’s giant palm, floating paper boat or the itsy little gallery of Mirella Von Chrupek (look around our website for more on those).

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LUXURY

Logos and brand names count a lot in modern Warsaw.

Splash out on off-the-peg designer togs in Klif, or head to Vitkac for Poland’s top luxury department store.

For more local names then any Polish designer worth their salt aspires to own a unit on ul. Mokotowska: the largely female-focused boutiques here represent the sharp, costlier edge of Polish fashion. For a personal touch, men should opt for a bespoke suit at Zaremba before finishing their look with a glamorous pochette from… glamorous-pochette.com.

Safripsti

DESIGN

It’s not just Warsaw’s fashion scene that is looking up. Design companies are thriving and driving ever forward: Magazyn Praga, NOON/NOON, Studio Rygalik, Reset, Le Pukka and Pies Czy Suka are favored examples of design teams that think outside of the box. Whether it’s a living room statement piece or a mere salt shaker, these places cover both big and small requirements.

SHOPPING SPREE FASHION

Polish designers have finally broken through the ceiling and into the big time. The most celebrated include the androgynous style espoused by Robert Kupisz, the subtle urban look of Ania Kuczyńska and the everyday cool of Konrad Parol. Cult urbanistas Local Heroes have even gone as far as outfitting some squeaky pop prat named Justin Bieber. The Mustache Yard Sale that happens every few months is a great budget-minded overview of local trends.

NOON/NOON

GIFTS

The Insider will never stop recommending Wawa Bla Bla, a small, expat-owned store that represents a growing number of upcoming urban/street artists – it’s great for a gift that’s a little more abstract. Spod Lady specialize in retro nick knacks inspired by Poland’s socialist past, while Radio Telewizja and Fundacja Bęc Zmiana are treasure troves of arty, local interest books. To smell special Sen Nocy Letniej are an Aladdin’s Cave of luxurious scents produced in Poland. Oh, and remember the Warsaw Gift Shop, an online portal retailing extraordinary framed photos of the city we live in.

Magazyn Praga

VINTAGE

There’s lots of retro fashion to go around, with the best stores being Safripsti and Cukier Puder. But vintage doesn’t just mean clothes. For stunning original pieces of post-war Polish poster art check out posterguys.pl or visit their stand in the University Library. Then there’s the weekend photographic market in Klub Stodoła, a curious collection of both old and new camera gear.

Finally, browsing the Sunday morning Bazar Na Kole is an experience in itself. Some come away empty handed, others leave with war medals, gramophones and antique paintings.

www.warsawinsider.pl

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GREEN TO WARSAW ŁAZIENKI

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A WALK IN THE PARK

As summer fades to autumn, and green turns into gold, never is there a better time to explore the glories of Łazienki…

Warsaw, and its residents, sure like their parks.

Seventy-six fall within the city limits, making the captial one of the greenest in Europe. Spoilt for choice they might be, but if the populace were pressed to pick one they couldn’t live without then its highly likely Łazienki would be it. Designed in the 17th century by the prolific Tylman van Gameren, its seen numerous modifications since, most notably during the reign of Poland’s last king, Stanisław August Poniatowski. Serving as the monarch’s summer residence, it was under his auspices that architect Dominik Merlini added such structures as ‘the White House’ (an elegant den for the King’s preferred mistress), an open-air GrecoRoman amphitheatre and the dramatic ‘Palace on the Water’. Later embellishments were to include ‘the New Orangery’, built on the command of Tsar Alexander II to house Europe’s largest collection of tropical plants, not to mention the inter-war Chopin Monument: on May 31st, 1940, it became the first local monument to be destroyed by the Nazis. Later, during their retreat, the Germans torched many of the structures, though plans to dynamite the ruins never came to fruition. Now restored and rebuilt, Łazienki’s 76 hectares are filled with monuments and museums, greenery and trails. For a throwback to the Imperial Age, it’s utterly unmissable.

www.warsawinsider.pl

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GREEN TO WARSAW ŁAZIENKI

ŁAZIENKI EVENTS

2ND FESTIVAL OF BAROQUE MUSIC Including chamber concerts, opera and dance performances, the Baroque Music festival begins on Sept 2nd with a rendition of Sognando La Morte in the Old Orangery. That’s also the venue of the closing concert, Handel’s Orlando, due to take place on Sept 18th. Tickets are priced between zł. 20-100. For a full schedule and further details, see: lazienki-krolewskie.pl

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PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

CHOPIN IN THE PARK Each Sunday at noon and 4 p.m. head to the reconstructed Chopin monument for free open air piano concerts. The final concert of the season takes place on Sept 25th.

Previous spread: the Roman-style Temple of Diana exemplifies the obsession with ancient architecture. Despite outward appearances, the structure is made of wood. Facing page, clockwise from top: inspired by the ruins of Herculaneum, the open air amphitheater is the scintillating venue for many live concerts; the concept for a Chinese Garden was originally coined by King Poniatowski. The garden you see now was completed in 2014 and based upon Prince Kung’s Mansion in Beijing; unveiled in 1788 on the 105th anniversary of King III Sobieski’s victory over Ottoman forces in the Battle of Vienna, this sculpture depicts the monarch astride a steed and trampling over cowering Turks; gondolas ferry sightseers around Łazienki’s waterways and canals.

This page: a Bacchanalian scene viewed from the Palace on the Water.

www.warsawinsider.pl

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URBAN EXPLORATION NUCLEAR WARSAW

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APOCALYPSE NOW

Declassified after decades of secrecy, the doors have now opened on Warsaw’s nuclear secret…

BY ALEX WEBBER | PHOTOS BY ED WIGHT

O

n the face of it, this has the feel of a normal, summer Sunday. Suburban Warsaw is hungover and quiet, so quiet that you can almost hear the hanging laundry moving gently in the breeze. The stillness is only punctured by the occasional clang of a distant remont. To me, this is the sound of a typical weekend. But today is anything but ordinary. We’re inside a military compound and our company for the day looks ready for war… nuclear war.

With us there is a young girl wearing a black t-shirt with the name of a military re-enactment group stamped in Teutonic script, and two middle-aged guys with Geiger counters hanging from their military fatigues. “Soviet issue, 1986,” says one noting my interest. Together, we are

in the care of Michał, a strapping chap who for the past year or so has been renting a Cold War bunker from the Polish armed forces.

Found behind the back of Powązki Cemetery, inside a despondent-looking army rehabilitation facility, Obiekt Alfa is thought to have been completed around about 1977. Built to house a mysterious chemical / biological research unit, it’s from here that the nationwide medical operation would have been conducted in the event of World War Three. Astonishingly, it’s thought to have still been in use up until 2006, with its declassification occurring only two years ago. In spite of this, there is little about Alfa that feels contemporary, instead it’s a sinister reminder of paranoid times. www.warsawinsider.pl

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URBAN EXPLORATION NUCLEAR WARSAW

We follow Michał through a clunky steel door, and then another and another. I lose count how many we step through, though we’re told there’s 34 hermetically-sealed portals in all, some weighing as much as 300 kilos. The air is thick and musty, and we eventually arrive to a corridor housing a row of decontamination chambers. It’s dark, eerie and a little claustrophobic. Beyond, we file into the command center, a room filled with clumsy technology and numerous dials and switches. “That machine there,” say Michał pointing, “was the first in Poland to record something amiss in Chernobyl.” Sinking into a sagging orange armchair, 80s newspapers scattered in front, I try and imagine the reaction of the researchers that were based here.

Although the bunker is just 150 sq/m, all sense of scale is lost within its twisting confines. There’s a lab brimming with gas masks and mineral samples, and a doctor’s surgery with notepads and stethoscopes and wobbly glass cabinets with lines of utensils and jars. On learning the contents of one such vessel, I nearly faint: tapeworm. The adjoining bathroom, all brown stains and dark patches, is brutal; stare down the plughole long enough and I’m sure you’d summon the spirit of Freddie Krueger.

Working in shifts, around 19 scientists were based in Alfa at any one time: locked away from the outside world, it’s difficult to imagine the psychological challenges of this isolated existence. Of course, there was downtime, and the kitchen / common room offers a revealing insight. As if frozen in time, we poke around shelves and cupboards packed with Konsumy-branded products and items: while the general population lived in deprivation,

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members of the internal security services had the pick of ‘luxury’ goods from this ‘closed to Joe Public’ chain of stores. Bottles of aftershave, cookbooks and long-emptied beers lie sprinkled in testament to the perks of the job.

Yet while the rewards were ample, employment here was no gravy train. A toxicological unit is heavy with test tubes, beakers and lingering synthetic odors and we’re told it was here that Alfa’s occupants handled highly hazardous material. On hearing this, ‘the Geiger Gang’ break out their equipment and start scouring the room for signs of radioactive waste. Further, and with the tour coming to an end, we pass a compact cubicle selling guidebooks and trinkets. Even this cell has its own little story: “back in the day,” says Michał, “up to four volunteers would squeeze in and spend five days at a time locked away under observation.” Forbidden from sleeping, and kept in fluctuating temperatures ranging from 5 to 50°C, it’s here that human guinea pigs would undergo confidential experiments.

Finally, we leave the stagnant, suffocating smells behind and reemerge outside to beautiful sunshine. Light streams through the treetops and a couple of dogs bask in the shade; there’s an innocence to the scene. As we wait for a taxi to take us away, it’s the perfect weather to contemplate the unique and terrifying methods mankind has devised to wreak destruction and death.

Obiekt Alfa

ul. Kozielska 4, tel. 506 715 480, obiektalfa.pl There are no set opening hours for Obiekt Alfa, however, Michał and his wife are often available at weekends to conduct tours for small groups. Ring ahead to make a reservation.

www.warsawinsider.pl

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LISTINGS

Taste of Asia A good gauge of Pełną Parą’s swoon-worthy offer-

ings is the Dim Sum Mix: find a duo of Chinese dumplings (pork/shitake & bamboo/shrimp) plus a spicy kimchi-style cucumber salad topped off with some fried wontons and spring rolls. Ideal for sharing, such is the quality you really believe that Warsaw is going in the right direction. Appetites, however, may suffer if you sit too close to the manager, a person who sees nothing wrong with barking orders at the staff in the manner of a bulldog.

Pełną Parą na Nowo ul. Nowowiejska 10, pelnapara.pl

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PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE KEVIN DEMARIA, OPPOSITE ED WIGHT

RESTAURANTS 45 CAFES & WINE BARS 75 NIGHTLIFE 80 SHOPPING 85 FAMILY 92 HEALTH & BEAUTY 97 IN THE CITY 106

REVIEWS had Tom Oliver’s cider on the hand pump. It was a real eye-opener with all the tastes and aromas of a wild beer. I realized then that cider could be a really interesting drink.

WI: But good ciders don’t come cheap…

MC: Cider has a problem with price: a mass-produced cider is only 3 or 4 złoty in the shops while a craft cider is about three or four times that. However, a growing number of people are ready pay that premium in return for quality.

We’ve seen it happen with food, we’ve seen it happen with beer. Hopefully, we’re going to see people make the same jump with cider.

WI: The growing appreciation of ‘artisan’ processes must help?

MC: The advantage that craft cider has is its background story. People love knowing that something comes from an old orchard or a small farm. There’s a sense of reassurance when you know something has been made by a farmer and not by an accountant or a computer program.

The Warsaw In-Cider

As Warsaw braces itself for its first dedicated cider pub, we talk to Marcin of Jabeerwocky about the big apple…

WI: It’s said that Poland is the EUs biggest producer of apples – so why don’t we see more cider in this country?

MC: Cider has usually been perceived as similar to cheap wine.

Poles view it as a sweet, mass-produced drink. In fact, for a long time it was even taxed in the same bracket as wine. Tax laws changed a few years back and that’s encouraged new producers.

At the same time, Poles have returned from places like England and brought back new tastes with them. This has helped push Polish cider production forward.

WI: You’re better known for your love of stouts and porters – so where did it all go apple-shaped for you?

MC: My personal relationship with cider began quite recently. The first turning point came when I tasted the ciders of award-winning home brewer Czesław Dziełak. They really were quite something.

Then, a few weeks later, Warsaw held its first cider week and we

WI: Do you see any comparisons to the ‘beer revolution’?

MC: When that first started every new brewery would hold a launch party in one of the tap bars. For a while these were huge events. Nowadays, unless it’s something really special, there’s just not that same excitement. But I think cider will recreate that buzz we had with beer: if a new cider hits the market hard then it will get attention.

In fact, I can see cider attaining the same kind of cult status that wheat beer enjoys – it’ll never hold more than a small percentage of the market, but that percentage will be very loud.

WI: So we’re not going to see a billion new cideries in the next few months?

MC: Cider is quite special in that it’s very difficult to learn the craftsmanship behind it. If you’re brewing a beer you get plenty of chances to perfect it. With cider, unless you use frozen crap then there’s only one chance per year.

Jabeerwocky Junior reopens as Poland’s first cider bar at the start of the September. Find it on ul. Nowogrodzka 12. www.warsawinsider.pl

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REVIEWS Getting It Right…

g

It’s the simple things that are often the best…

rzybowska, at least the bit between Marszałkowska and Jana Pawła II, is acting increasingly schizophrenic. But despite being undecided as to whether it’s a business district or a residential zone, its split personality functions surprisingly well. Regardless of the financial towers and sleek properties that have filled the once empty land plots, the area’s most noticeable feature remains the soaring concrete tombs that comprise the 1960s Żelazna Brama housing estate.

It’s on the ground floor of one such block that you’ll find Sawa, a place that embraces the history of its address with an interesting interior that gives a wink to the past: walls stripped to their original concrete, transparent glass bricks once used in the stairwells, and an eye-catching mosaic designed in the PRL style. These trimmings, however, are tactful and discreet; this isn’t some pokey blast to the past, on the contrary, with floor-to-ceiling windows and cheerful blue flashes it feels more Mediterranean than anything else.

For sure, Mediterranean appears to be the message of the menu. To begin, there’s an Italian tartar with olive powder, shallots in port and balsamic vinegar and a smoked egg. Even on their own, these are ingredients that work independently of each other; combined together they’re an absolute winner, with the olive powder adding texture and the shallots a rich depth of taste. In contrast to these earthy flavors, the other starter – octopus – comes with marinated turnip, beads of pomegranate and a fun and fruity mango / papaya salsa. It’s a clean tasting dish that’s admirable in its simplicity.

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Given the chance, I’d eat octopus all day, and I prove this with mains: yep, another one arrives, this time ‘Galician style’, i.e. with waxy, boiled potatoes finished with pimento and a splash of oil. While true Galician octopus tends to be cut into little chunks, this one isn’t, but I’m not going to be pedantic and labor the point. The reasoning for that is because it still tastes just right: tender and full of Spanish bang. My accessory for the day, the Insider’s photographer, agrees, and we joust over the pickings like medieval crusaders. This isn’t something I altogether mind, because it allows me the chance to raid his own plate: ocean perch with seasonal greens, a lively lemon sauce and saffron. Again, simple stuff but skillfully executed.

Dessert continues the unpretentious theme, with forest fruit ice cream served with granola and blackberries: immensely enjoyable. And that there is the strength of this restaurant.

Warsaw’s foodie metamorphosis has been a joy to see, but too many places have overreached themselves in an attempt to outwit both the public and the pundits. Sawa isn’t one of those.

It’s a restaurant that seems to recognize its strengths and plays right towards them. They are not going to mystify you with crazy techniques, what they will do though, is cook a bloody good meal for a very decent price. At a time when so many new eateries are relying on shock and awe tactics, this one has its head screwed on: well done for that. (PB) Sawa

ul. Grzybowska 5, sawabistro.pl

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA, INTERIOR PHOTOGRAPH PION

It’s a restaurant that seems to recognize its strengths and plays right towards them...

www.warsawinsider.pl

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REVIEWS

WARSAW BEER WEEK Sept 12-18th

Power to the People!

w

The co-op changing local food culture

arsaw is going green – but at what cost? A large one, as it happens.

Though farmers’ markets and organic stores have caught on like wildfire, prices remain lavishly inflated. Created as an alternative to these, the Dobrze Food Co-op aims to ‘widen access to healthy, seasonal food’ while also supporting sustainable agriculture. Founded in summer, 2014, the project collaborates with over 20 farms and local businesses and sells fresh vegetables and fruit alongside cereals, dried goods and other bits and pieces.

“Our goal is to support a system of food production and distribution,” reads their mission statement, “that fulfils the democratically defined needs of food consumers and producers rather than being oriented on profit.” After two years of successful trading at Wilcza 29A, the scheme has been pronounced such a success that a second location has now been added on Andersa 27. For more info, check: dobrze.waw.pl

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With September generally considered to be the month Warsaw goes ‘back to work’ following the holidays, what better time to hold a ‘beer week’? A joint initiative tossed together by twelve of the city’s cornerstone craft beer bars, this event is the first of its kind in the capital and promises tons of prizes for the most dedicated drinkers (“and not just beer or t-shirts” say the organizers), as well as a one-off ‘gateway’ beer that hopes to ease novices and newcomers into the artisan circle. Brewed by Browar Palatum – Warsaw’s first craft brewery – the drink will only be available in the 12 participating venues. Each will also be looking to stir the public’s interest with a range of individual events that will include premiere parties, ‘meet the brewer’ evenings, lectures, courses and other such attractions. “Everyone,” say the organizers, “with a penchant for getting pissed on fancy ales and lagers is in for a treat!” All you have to do is pick-up your own ‘beer passport’ from one of the bars in question, and then set about amassing your series of prizes, badges, stamps and stickers.

Where: Chmielarnia, Chmielarnia Marszałkowska, Ceska Baszta, Cześć, Gorączka Złota, Hoppiness, Jabeerwocky, Kufle i Kapsle, Piwna Sprawa, Piw Paw, Same Krafty and Spiskowcy Rozkoszky.

Further details: fb.com/warsawbeerweek

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

A Bohemian Rhapsody

As welcome as the global beer reformation has been, it has had its drawbacks: namely, the number of snobs and zealots found leering over pineapple stouts and impossible IPAs. “Definitely bacon on the nose,” they lecture while taking fussy gulps of the new beer of the hour. Screw that. Sometimes you just want a normal bar with good, clean lager. Bohemia is that place. This is a Czech bar for modern times: stylish interiors of glass and wood and a so-called ‘tank system’ that maintains the beer’s freshness. And just like the Czech Republic, find your Pilsner served in a variety of ways – try the ‘Mliko’, a full pint of sweet, creamy foam that can be sunk in a swig.

Bohemia Al. Jana Pawła II 23, bohemiarestaurant.pl www.warsawinsider.pl

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PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

REVIEWS

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What A Fokim Find Krucza receives a perky Asian twist…

f

okim does what other bars daren’t. I mean, where else can you go to the toilet and find a scantily-clad Korean girl jiggling about in a titillating manner? Okay, so she’s on an LCD screen, but nevertheless, it’s a bold design statement that sets the tone nicely. Yet as easy as it is to spend the rest of the night locked in the cubicle with her, by doing so you risk missing the real fun – that’s found around the bar, a well devised space that feels punchy and buoyant: ‘eat, drink, dance, riot,’ urges a Malibu pink neon attached to a wall sheathed in spatial wood panels.

Grupa Warszawa, the cadre behind Fokim, are not new to the bar game. Founded in 2008, they’ve redefined the city’s nightscape with a string of successes such as Weles and Zorza. Further, they’ve achieved this by shunning the temptation to ‘copy and paste’. Each venture has its own distinct personality, with their latest hit, Fokim, being openly portrayed as ‘the naughty child’ of the team’s portfolio. “Our life is all fun and no rules,” shouts their website, “rebellion is our style.”

True to their word, we turn up to find a wild night in full swing. It’s Thursday evening, not even that late, but the place is jumping with glittery girls and gregarious guys. “Oh yeah,” says

the photographer, “that’s so and so from the TV.” With the party spilling outside, there’s a fizz and crackle to the atmosphere that’s hard to ignore. Keeping it pulsating, tattooed bar staff work double-time to keep the horde happy. There’s shots with names such as Karate Kid and Dragon Ball, and elaborate cocktails like One Night in Saigon. Keeping me fired-up is the Marry Me: Jagermeister mixed with Big Tom tomato juice and a lively dollop of mustard seeds and horseradish. Don’t think of it as a Bloody Mary, think of it as something better.

There’s food, as well, and we make a concerted assault on the pan-Asian menu: immaculate sushi and kimchi salad that’s all tang and zip; elsewhere, a taste of Saigon street life courtesy of loaded Banh Mi baguettes and fluffy steamed buns packed with Peking duck and lashings of Hoi Sin sauce. It’s a fresh and frisky offer in tune with the drinks, the surrounds and the people themselves. In a nutshell, it’s a dynamite demonstration of Warsaw’s new swagger. (AW) Fokim

ul. Krucza 24/26, fokim.pl www.warsawinsider.pl

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REVIEWS

The Siren’s Call

A brilliant boost for the Mexican scene…

i

f I were to ever sit down and pen a tome charting Warsaw’s post-Communist culinary history (now there’s a good idea for someone), I’m certain a whole weighty chapter would be devoted to Tex Mex. At one stage it was massive. For Poles, these restaurants were a colorful glimpse of distant lands. For expats, they were so much more: they became a gathering ground for after-work drinks and late night carousing.

Not anymore. A fork in the road has been reached. Tex Mex, in Warsaw at least, sits on Death Row. Like ‘fusion’ before it, it’s a catch-all cuisine that’s ready to be administered its lonely last rites. Instead, restaurants have chosen to gain focus and branch out into specific directions. For this reason, the city has recently been blessed by a growing group of venues specializing in Mexican food. The latest, La Sirena, looks the best of the bunch.

I mean this quite literally. Taken on their own, the interiors are a candidate for the capital’s ‘best new design’. Apparently inspired by the ultraviolent films of Danny Trejo, they find a middle ground between a traditional cantina and El Chapo’s jail. As for the food, that too gets my vote. Admittedly, my first visit – on their opening weekend – hadn’t been too successful. Marked by turbulent service, heavy, blunt cutlery and quite torpid salsas, my initial impressions weren’t anything special. But it’s been an upward trajectory ever since. With those baby age blips eliminated (cutlery aside), what we now have is a rather mesmerizing restaurant that ticks all the boxes: creamy Kermitcolored guacamole, cocktails that are both vicious and delicious, and ‘drunken beans’ full of heart and vim. Does it get better? Yes, particularly with the ‘short ribs burrito’ and a readjusted ‘almost death’ salsa that’s finally learned to say POW. It’s still early days yet, but this has all the hallmarks of a legend in the making. (AW) La Sirena

ul. Piękna 54

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Partner News The latest marketplace news from the Warsaw Insider’s friends and advertisers…

Mythical Greek

So we’re not there yet, but what’s October without octopus? Taverna Patris have organized their celebrated Octopus Festival each October since opening in 2009 so mark next month in your diary for a true, loving homage to this mysterious creature. In the meantime, familiarize yourselves with iGrek, a sister establishment with readymade products available to go.

Taverna Patris & iGrek Wał Miedzeszyński 407 & ul. Zwycięzców 28

Menu Update

Size Counts

Opened in June, Dwa Woły have used their first few months of business to gauge the public’s reaction and canvas opinion. As a result, September will see a revamp of the menu with new items including a chicken burger with mango aioli, cod burger with capers and horseradish sauce, and a whopping double meat burger with cheese and veg.

Bigger means better at Bułke przez Bibułkę. Tired of seeing punters stacked in like dominos, the management have moved to enlarge their city center spot by 80 sq/m. The news doesn’t end there: in collaboration with chef Janek Paszkowski, find best-selling classics such as Midsummer’s Night Cheese and Bagel & Co. given some further refinement.

Dwa Woły ul. Rozbrat 8, dwawoly.pl

Bułke przez Bibułkę ul. Zgoda 3, bulkeprzezbibulke.pl

Foxy Moxy

Poland’s first Moxy Hotel is set to open in 2017 in the Koneser Vodka Factory. Part of Marriott International’s millennial-focused new brand, the 141-room hotel promises a “boutique concept for budget savvy visitors and a new generation of business traveler.” The idea is to combine stylish design with affordable price points.

Moxy Hotel ul. Ząbkowska 27/31, moxy-hotels.marriott.com

www.warsawinsider.pl

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NEWSFLASH! Hala Koszyki, a neo-Gothic market hall dating from 1909,

is set to reopen at the end of September following a massive facelift. Set to serve as a multi-use residential, retail and office complex, the ground floor will be occupied by 18 restaurants and bars and a several boutique retail stores.

Frisky Whisky

Elegance is the name of the game at Bar and Books, with cocktails of beauty served in gentrified surrounds. Now you too can learn the secrets behind the bar craft by attending one of their workshops: held in English-language on Sept 7th, book now for a group masterclass that reveals the secrets behind ‘the perfect Whisky sour’. Tickets are priced at zł. 30 per head.

Bar and Books ul. Wąski Dunaj 20, barandbooks.pl

LIVE MUSIC

All Natural

On The Scent

Hard Rock!

Soti, manufacturers of bottled green tea, have announced further growth in their sales and presence. Thanks to its high levels of antioxidants, Soti Natural is more than a refreshing drink, it’s a smart way to boost the metabolism and lower your sugar levels.

To learn more about Alba1913, Poland’s oldestcosmetics company, visit Sen Nocy Letniej at 8 p.m. on September 30th. Based on natural ingredients and herbal extracts, Alba’s products have also had a considerable impact on art and design: now’s your chance to find out how.

Pledging to provide the highest quality of food and service, Hard Rock Café have a full program of live acoustic music lined up each Saturday of the month, as well as Vocal Contests each Wednesday to discover the latest, upcoming musical talent!

Soti sotinatural.com

Sen Nocy Letniej ul. Oleandrów 5

Hard Rock Café ul. Złota 59, hardrock.com

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restaurants KEY

NEW & NOTEWORTHY

$ zł. 30 (per main) $$ zł. 30-55 $$$ over zł. 55 New listings are in RED 2015 Best of Warsaw Award Winner BEST OF WARSAW 2015 KEY WINNERS Fine Dining Senses Casual Dining Bibenda Newcomer MOD Chef Sebastian Wełpa (Ale Wino) Modern Polish (Opasły Tom) Foreign Chef Martin Gimenez-Castro (Salto & Ceviche Bar)

FALAFEL BEJRUT MOLIERA 8 (ul. Moliera 8) So what would you prefer – an underperforming steakhouse or what’s commonly regarded as the best falafel Warsaw has ever seen? In all truth, polls are closed on that one. Taking the place of the defunct Muu Muu restaurant, Falafel Bejrut have grown from life as a ‘food bike’ outside Hala Mirowska, to a runaway juggernaut in the heart of Warsaw. Both the falafel and hummus are exceptional, and you’ll find their latest venue also serving artisanal vegan ice cream from Vegestacja. If rumors are to be believed, they’ll also be expanding their menu sometime in the future.

BEZ TYTUŁU (ul. Poznańska 16, beztytulu.com) There’s a beauty to this restaurant that causes guests to stop a moment and soak it all in. Classy yet discreet, the interiors set art and photography against rehabilitated brickwork while pendant bulbs cast a soft light downwards. The classic cooking has French and Polish accents and has so far won glowing reviews – not least from Froblog, one of the country’s most trusted restaurant sites. We’ll be visiting ourselves for a full review next month.

african american balkan & russian british burgers & street food chinese cooking schools cuban fine dining french georgian greek & turkish hungarian indian international italian japanese & sushi jewish korean latin & spanish mexican middle eastern polish seafood specialty food shops steak houses thai vegan & wholefood vietnamese

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listings / restaurants african Café Baobab (H4) ul. Francuska 31, tel. 22 617 4057, cafebaobab.pl The work of former basketball player Aziz Seck, Baobab brings the tastes of Senegal to Saska Kępa. The mafe yap – beef stewed in peanut sauce – is as interesting as it sounds, and best enjoyed during their bi-monthly Saturday night concerts. $

american Amigos (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 119, restauracjaamigos.pl Mentored by George Bush’s former private chef, the cooks at Amigos have mastered a comprehensive menu that’s nothing if it isn’t a roll-call of true Texan tastes: steaks, ribs and other dishes befitting of the Dodge City saloon-style surrounds. Neither is the south of the border forgotten, with cameo appearances from Mexican mainstays such as burritos and fajitas. $$ Brooklyn Restaurant & Bar (C4) Al. Jana Pawła II 18 (Rondo ONZ), tel. 22 114 3434, brooklynbw.eu Gone are the fancy pants culinary creations once found in the basement, ousted in favor of a menu of pimped-up soul and street food, salads and steaks. This means fresh tacos not to mention the best-selling ‘Mito’s Beef Ribs’. The ground floor burger bar is more prosaic, offering a standard line-up of burgers and wings. $$

Champions Sports Bar (D5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel.

22 630 5119, champions.pl While the concept and style look dated, there’s no faulting the attention to detail – with TVs positioned all over the place you won’t miss a kick. The heavy décor brings to mind the trans-Atlantic sports bars of the 90s, with glinting trophies, whirring machines, clacking pool tables and a cacophony of commentaries. Hell, there’s even a boxing ring. But you can’t criticize their consistency: the food is always on-point, the staff are pro, while the generous floor plan makes it suitable for unwieldy groups of large and loud lads. $$

Dwa Woły ul. Rozbrat 8, tel. 22 409 00 86, dwawoly.pl Beef, bbq and burgers play a sizeable role at Dwa Woły in more ways than one: the double burger is an almost obscene, secret pleasure. Also notable are their pastrami sandwiches and Tex Mex deals. With the summer closing out, enjoy the last rays of sun of their seasonal terrace. $$ Hard Rock Café (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, hardrockcafe.pl Instantly recognizable by the giant neon guitar outside, Hard Rock has a pierced staff of skater boys and rock girls and a menu that is, if nothing else,

HANDMADE PASTA Original Italian Pizza ORGANIC VEG ITALIAN WINES Cocktail bar and weekends with DJ

ADDRESS: Marszałkowska 115 (next to the theater Capitol) Plac Bankowy, Warszawa CONTACT: phone: 507 099 190 kontakt@restauracjasi.pl fb.com/RestauracjaSi www.restauracjasi.pl

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completely reliable. Peruse rock’n’roll swag that includes Joplin’s blouse, Prince’s guitar and Shakira’s pants. $$ Someplace Else (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6710, someplace-else.pl Favoring a stark concrete look, SPE were once a legend of 90s/00s Warsaw. Things have tamed down since that ex-pat heyday, but this remains a noteworthy choice for live concerts and zippy Tex Mex food. $$

balkan Ba Adriatico (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 50/52 As a starter, then the grilled peppers stuffed with creamy, regional cheese are irresistible. But then so too the octopus salad. Mains are a victory of simplicity, with dishes like skewered minced beef served with a bitey sauce and a soft, pillowy Lepinja bread. Yet ignore Thursday seafood night at your peril. Croatian-run, this neighborhood spot has an unassuming air that belies the general quality. $$ Banja Luka (E8) ul. Szkolna 2/4, tel. 22 828 1060, banjaluka.pl Lots of clunky timber and imported ceramics set the scene at this eatery, a Balkan stalwart that’s known for its economical pricing structure and bulky portions. Grilled meats are prominent and the food largely reliable. $$

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listings / restaurants Yugo (B4) ul. Sienna 83 (enter from Żelazna), tel. 694 109 379 You feel alive just being here: big on Colgate white colors, vintage tourist agency posters and bright stickers, Yugo is just about the cheeriest eatery you’ll come across on a dour Warsaw day. Presenting the food of the former Yugoslavia, this Balkan bolt hole specializes in meaty dishes served in traditional bread. $

british Ę Rybę Al. Jana Pawła II 18, erybe.pl Warsaw’s has done fish and chips before, yet nowhere has managed to capture the unique taste of the British seaside as convincingly as this place.

Forget the grey and greasy offerings the city has previously volunteered, here’s a spot where the chips are golden, the fish fresh and

the batter crisp and light. Doused with malt vinegar, and a couple of dollops of tartar sauce, here’s food that cuddles and comforts those Brits who miss home. $$ Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640 It’s a British pub first and foremost, but massive steps have been taken to ensure that the food angle isn’t overlooked. The all-day breakfast is a great way to stoke up your drinking powers, while other dishes of note inc. pies, sausages and mash and, of course, fish and chips. $$ Pik’s Fish & Chips ul. Grójecka 17B You wait years for a fish and chip shop and then two come along at once. But most of the Brits are converging on E Rybę in the center, and there’s a reason for that: entered into a head-to-head and there’s one clear winner. It’s not Pik. Comparisons to E Rybę are both inevitable and unfavorable: smaller portions and tastes that are just not quite there. $

burgers & street food

A PLACE IN WHICH WINE PLAYS THE FIRST CHORD IN HARMONY WITH WHAT APPEARS ON THE PLATE…

WE WELCOME YOU

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Barn Burger (D4) ul. Złota 9. tel. 512 157 567, barnburger. pl Retaining a loyal crowd ever since their 2012 entry on the burger circuit, Barn Burger offer a loud and lively atmosphere and much celebrated burgers with goofy names like Heart Attack and Muppet. The list by the door notes the results of their American-style eating competitions / greed-fests. $ Beef’N’Roll (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel. 531 707 070, beefnroll.pl If the wheels have fallen off the burger craze then no-one told Beef’N’Roll.

Originating as a food truck, their success has been such that a fixed venue was required.

Everything about the food and drink suggests quality is the main consideration. $ Bez Ości (D5) ul. Hoża 51, bezosci.com Those lamenting the loss of Warsaw’s first artisan sandwich stop – MeatLove – have been given hope by the opening of a new venture across the street. Specializing in fish-based sarnies and baguettes, the choice includes deboned catches fresh from a stint in the smokehouse served in bread baked in traditional brick

listings / restaurants ovens. The cod with horseradish choice is a particular bestseller. Find it occupying a tiny, converted space inside a former vodka distillery. $ Burger Bar ul. Puławska 974/80 (enter from Olkuska) & ul. Krucza 41/43, burgerbar.waw.pl Warsaw’s first legitimate burger spot was the talk of the town when it first opened up in 2012, only to have its thunder stolen when 100 copycats opened in their trail. But this lot have kept plugging away, sticking to their guns with little song and dance. Intimate and unassuming, it’s for good reason they’ve retained a loyal core of fans – if the words masterpiece can be applied to a burger, then their green chili burger is just that. $ Diner 55 (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34 Young? Broke? Try Diner 55. Set in a dark, industrial basement, this spot fills with skater types showing off their first tattoo. The menu is born of an alliance between Pan Burger, Rico’s Tacos and Mr.

Pancake, and is good enough for a quick fix solution. $ Kotakota Buns (E3) ul. Bartoszewicza 3, fb.com/ kotakotabuns Having made a splash last year on account of its tunnel-dark interiors and inspirational cooking, Kotakota have rung in the changes with chef Adam Leszczyński rethinking the menu to present a choice of bun-based meals that look set to rock Warsaw: fillings include meatballs with cheddar and are little short of outstanding. Rehydrate with local craft beers inside interiors filled with donated furniture and peeling plaster walls. $ Nocny Market (A5) ul. Towarowa 3 (Past Warszawa Główna Train Station) Set on and around a disused train platform, this weekend hangout gets thronged: guys with waxed whiskers queue for new wave beer while uber cool girls cast Jessica Rabbit eyes at a hip hop DJ. Mostly though, it’s a place that’s about food: an ever evolving line-up brings together not just food

trucks, but quality restaurants hawking their specials from tiny stalls – keep an eye on their facebook to see who is booked for the weekend. $ Okienko (D7) ul. Polna 22 Belgian-style frites served in paper cones right from out of a street-side hatch. Yes they’re good, but they’re bettered by the sauces that are written up in marker pen on the wall tiles. With money exchanged, do your eating on the upturned crates left on the side of the curb. $ Pogromcy Meatów (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, tel. 505 703 508 Yearn no more for the elusive flavor of the backyard BBQ. Specializing in grilled meat, find exactly just that loaded into artisan buns alongside locally grown greens. The sense of homespun quality makes this the kind of comfort food that Warsaw has been missing for years. $ SAS Duck & Chicken (D5) ul. Piękna 54, fb.com/sasduckandchicken

www.focaccia.pl tel.: +48 22 829 69 69, ul. Senatorska 13/15, Warsaw/Old Town restauracja@focaccia.pl, fb.com/restauracjafocaccia

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listings / restaurants

INTERNATIONAL CUISINE, BEAUTIFUL INTERIOR

- YOUR PLACE TO BE

Although SAS Duck & Chicken feels reminiscent of the ‘hipster pop-up’ we first saw three or four years back, they’ve taken a tried and tested format and hit refresh. A small and simple space it might be, but this kitchen crew have won hearts and minds with an understandable menu that presents comfort food at its glorious best: BBQ hot wings, duck confit burgers, chicken skewers and turkey in a big, buttery brioche. These are simple pleasures refined for a picky palette. $ Warburger (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1, warburger.pl While Warsaw has lost its appetite for burgers, you wouldn’t necessarily tell by popping in WarBurger. Set inside a diminutive cabin, join the scrum for jazzed-up burgers that use slow-food ingredients. If not the best, they’re most certainly up there. $ Ziggi Point (B4) ul. Pańska 59, tel. 696 145 735 Diners are summoned to the counter to collect their order via a buzzer, before settling down to enjoy what has emerged as a real candidate for Warsaw’s best burger. The fiery Desperados is as perfect as a burger gets, and best twinned with a Curiosity Cola from the Fentimans brand. Steaks and wings also available inside a cool diner setup. $

chinese Cesarski Pałac (D2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 9707, cesarskipalac.com A rouge tinted Chinese restaurant whose design even incorporates a footbridge. Widely acclaimed, this 18-year-old restaurant combines Sichuan and Cantonese cuisine to serve a variety of dishes in an elegant backdrop. The Dim Sum are something else. $$

ul. Wilcza 50/52 tel. 22 623 02 90 wilcza50restaurant wilcza50 www.wilcza50.pl

Pełną Parą (B4) ul. Sienna 76, pelnapara.pl The Thai soup with lemongrass and chicken is fragrant, deep and nourishing, but it’s the Chinese dim sum they’re famous for mind, with eight variations thereof. Find yourself knocked sideways by these beautiful pouches of meaty goodness: the duck, orange and Sichuan pepper is a particular favorite. Impossible to get tired of, these are of a standard that bring to mind London’s Chinatown. $ To Tu Dumpling Bar ul. Niekłańska 33, chinskapierogarnia.pl

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A shabby looking shack cabin, To Tu offer what are seriously considered some of the best – if not the best – dim sum in town.

Magic-ked up by a Manchurian exile, the experience isn’t unlike being in a sweaty back street haunt in Asia. And that’s a good thing! $

cooking schools Akademia Kulinarna Whirlpool ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), akademiakulinarnawhirlpool.pl Run by two Italians, find a gleaming kitchen inside a vast warehouse space inside Soho Factory. Mediterranean workshops are the primary foundation, though wine tasting and Polish cooking courses are also available.

Cook Up Studio ul. Racławicka 99 (Fort Mokotów), tel. 22 212 89 76, cookup.pl Workshops in a gorgeous cooking studio located in a redbrick fortress.

Past themes have included Swedish cooking (led by the Swedish Embassy chef), knife skills and soup, with lessons culminating in eating all that hard work.

Scheller Academy ul. Międzynarodowa 68, tel. 22 626 80 92, schelleracademy.pl Instantly recognizable by his beret and whiskers, Swiss-born Kurt Scheller invites guests to his Saska Kępa kitchen for lessons aimed at all skill levels.

cuban El Caribe ul. Mickiewicza 9, tel. 22 400 0994, el-caribe.pl Start with a round of daiquiris before ordering frijoles negroes (black beans). But everyone agrees, it’s the flan that gets you doing the cha cha. With the cooking left to a Cuban exile, this bubbly spot is worth the trip north to Żoliborz. $$

fine dining Amber Room at the Sobański Palace (E6) Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, amberroom.pl The Amber Room is, indeed, a bit of a treasure. You know all the chefs we bang on about in this mag? Bottom line, the good ones came through via this kitchen.

But this is more than a training ground for future stars, it’s a place that remains on the

listings / restaurants cutting edge in spite of its seemingly straight look. Positioned inside a majestic villa, the food is pure contemporary Poland, and well deserving of its Michelin nod. For that, thank chef Robert Skubisz. $$$ Atelier Amaro (E6) ul. Agrykola 1, tel. 22 628 5747, atelieramaro.pl The recipient of Poland’s first Michelin star, Atelier promotes pedigree Polish produce enhanced by modern techniques, with courses interspersed by occasionally bizarre interludes (leaves, flowers, twigs, etc.). It’s an extraordinary dining experience, and one which confirms the growing cult of chef Wojciech Amaro (who, unfortunately, nowadays is a rare sighting in his restaurant). Regardless, in the hours you’re here the world stops and you leave feeling like James Bond. Reservations are mandatory, with a waiting list that is approximately two to three months long. $$$ La Rotisserie (C1) ul. Kościelna 12 (Le Régina Hotel), tel.

22 531 6070, leregina.com A gloriously seductive dining room, Poland’s champion sommelier, and a chef that many recognize as being Michelin potential: put those three together and you have one of the finest experiences to be enjoyed in a Warsaw dining room. The cooking is ‘classic with a twist’, and in October that meant – for this diner at least - tuna with beetroot and yuzu, and a main of beef fillet: electrifyingly good. $$$

L’enfant Terrible (D8) ul. Sandomierska 13 (enter from Rejtana), tel. 22 119 5705, eterrible.pl Chef Michal Brys might look like he’s just swaggered in from a rock concert, but his flair for experimentation is second to none: expect a menu that marries local produce with the latest tricks and techniques. The tasting menu (six courses for zł. 199) is a brilliant insight into the mind of a chef who likes to experiment and push boundaries. With all the hype you expect this place to be a little up its arse, but it’s anything but. Again, credit for that goes to Brys and his front-of-house staff. $$$ N31 (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 31, n31restaurant.pl One of the original pioneers of modern Polish cooking returns with renewed vigor. That’s Robert Sowa, and his N31 restaurant has already made a massive splash with an upmarket, showbizzy crowd enjoying complex cooking amid a luxurious interior of pristine linen and glinting tableware. $$$

Nolita (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 292 0424, nolita.pl The deluxe dining scene is filling out in Warsaw, and there’s now a few restaurants that can present an equitable claim for the No. 1 spot. However, it’s Nolita that perch at the top, with a menu that sees largely classical recipes through a sharp,

modern prism – chef Jacek Grochowina has created a place that’s coherent and understandable without sacrificing values of innovation. Looking chic and high end, the tastes and sensations in this restaurant are thrilling: diners are left speechless by the tuna tartar, while the aged beef fillet is an Insider mainstay. $$$

Salto (D5) ul. Wilcza 73 (enter from Emilii Plater), tel. 22 584 8771, saltorestauracja.pl For those who think Argentine chef Martin Gimenez-Castro is just about steak, then they haven’t been to Salto. The tasting menu is the best way to view his full oeuvre, and on our visit included ceviche with Portuguese corvina; a dainty tranche of cavala mackerel; and Porcini ice cream served in the shape of a mushroom.

It’s a brilliant demonstration of the chef’s passion and personality, but most of all, it’s BEST WAWA just bloody brilliant. $$$ 2015 “Foreign Chef” Senses (C2) ul. Bielańska 12, tel. 22 331 9697, sensesrestaurant.pl A spectacular experience from start to finish: begin by walking through a flame-lit tunnel, and then conclude the night with an edible cigar: a grand tobacco flavored pastry infused with whisky and cinnamon. In between our night includes beetroot bread with a teat pipette of apple essence; a beef

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listings / restaurants rib that’s a big blast of smoke and crunch; and a shellfish goulash that’s rich and rough and rolling in flavor. Perfectly paced, expertly portioned and bristling with invention, their newly acquired Michelin star makes bookBEST WAWA ings recommended. $$$ 2015 “Fine Dining” Signature (D5) ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 55 38755, signaturerestaurant.pl You feel a millionaire just being here: we’ve heard the interiors described as a ‘Monegasque state of mind’, and that’s not a bad way to surmise a décor that’s all about friezes and reliefs dated from the time this was the Soviet Embassy, lavish 1950s Oswald chairs, lighting by Serge Mouille and original Marilyn photos shot by the acclaimed Milton Greene. Food-wise the restaurant makes a massive splash with a menu that’s clever, creative and pretty. $$ Tamka 43 (E3) ul. Tamka 43, tel. 22 441 6234, tamka.43.pl Ground floor: upmarket cafe serving Chopin

fans. Upstairs: a fine dining restaurant in which the seasonal menu sets the natural flavors of Poland against the culinary know-how of tomorrow. It’s easy to drop serious money here, but you’ll still feel it’s worthwhile. $$$

french ArtBistro Stalowa ul. Stalowa 52, tel. 22 618 2732 Part of an ‘art hotel’, the distant Stalowa features a narrow dining chamber with vaulted walls, fresh flowers and white formica fittings.

It looks good, but on a brighter day the courtyard, strewn with deckchairs and crates, is the place to be. The food is erratic but there is potential: if the other courses were a disappointment then the main was a thing of excellence – duck with a carefully crisped skin, a perfect hint of fat, expertly browned potatoes and a well-executed orange and caramel sauce. $$ Bistro la Cocotte (D6) ul. Mokotowska 12, tel. 664 906 000 With

access through a shadowy courtyard, the sensation you’re stepping inside a little secret is a pleasure in itself. Presenting itself in a riot of red and white gingham Cocotte feels warm and intimate, a factor aided by a small open kitchen and the atmosphere of home. The menu, chalked up on the blackboard, is a flexible affair that makes use of the ingredients at hand, and is divided into a smattering of light bites, desserts and plat du jour.

L’Arc (E8) ul. Puławska 16, tel. 519 000 050, larc.pl Looking elegant with its black/white floors and subtle decorations bills at L’Arc can become big number affairs – especially if you hanker for seafood. No-one complains, however. Pick from numerous types of oysters, or delve into the fish tank for the lobster of your choosing. The catchment area extends beyond the borders of Mokotów, not just because of their ‘fresh from France’ seafood, but because of classic dishes such as Mulard duck and Burgundy snails. $$

La Brasserie Moderne is a modern interpretation of traditional brasserie designed to bring the taste of the French art de vivre right to your table. Discover a seasonal menu skillfully composed by chef Maciej Majewski by combining the finest culinary traditions of France with local flavors and a modern twist.

Our open kitchen will complement your dining experience by creating a sense of participation in a live culinary show.

La Brasserie Moderne, visit us Mon.-Sat. noon-midnight | Królewska St 11 | 00-065 Warsaw | Tel. +48 22 657 83 82 | Email: brasserie.moderne@sofitel.com | www.facebook.com/brasserie.moderne

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listings / restaurants georgian Chinkali (D4) ul. Zgoda 3, tel. 22 692 4739, fb.com/ bistrochinkali Signposted by a Georgianlanguage shingle, there’s a real sense of pleasure about this place. More modern than your typical folksy ethnic outpost, Chinkali’s draw is indeed its chinkali: dough purses packed with meaty broth. There’s a genuine homemade quality to these slurpy bundles of joy, meaning that while they’re authentic, consistency can vary. And don’t miss out on the red bean chachapuri washed down with a mouthwash-colored tarragon lemonade. $ Rusiko (E5) Al. Ujazdowskie 22, tel. 22 629 0628, rusiko.pl Vodka shots at the ready! Rusiko finished 2015 voted Gazeta Wyborcza’s Knajpa Roku, a very public endorsement of all they’ve done right. The food is the equivalent of a warm cuddle on a cold day – it makes you feel good in the heart and soul – and when it comes to hospitality they’re in a league of their own. Live music lends the weekends a good-humored twist. Note: closed Monday. $$

greek & turkish Bar Turecki “Efes” (H4) ul. Francuska 1, ul. Aleje Niepodleglości 80, tel. 22 898 3001 So it’s best known as a kebab shop, but when the kebabs are this good they’re well worth the listing. Either join the queue outside, or head indoors to sample the smattering of Turkish grill food and salads. $

though a recent visit revealed a kitchen resting on its laurels – not one plate on our table was finished. $$ Santorini ul. Egipska 7, tel. 22 672 0525, kregliccy.pl/ santorini/ Santorini looks scuffed and tired but there’s a bonhomie present that instantly engages. The kitchen attaches no value to things like presentation, preferring instead to simply treat diners to piles of grilled and skewered food that consistently tastes right – and the milfei dessert is magic. $$ Taverna Patris (G4) ul Wał Międzeszyński 407, tel 22 357 11 11, tawernapatris.pl Recall the days of summer island hopping inside Patris, a cheerful restaurant with a celebratory, family atmosphere. Decked out in typical tavern style, classics such as moussaka and suvlaki always go down a storm. $$

hungarian U Madziara (B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 620 1423, umadziara.pl U Madziara looks like it took two days to decorate. No-one goes here to marvel at the interiors though, they go in the knowledge that they’ll find great food at prices all bank cards can support. Chef Gabor’s signature goulash is one of life’s simple pleasures, though the service can come across as distracted and inattentive. $

indian Bollywood Lounge (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, tel. 22 827 0283, bollywoodlounge.pl Known for their raucous dusk-till-dawn parties, there is another less hedonistic roll filled by Bollywood: that of a restaurant. The menu is an uncomplicated, classic affair that’s an ideal primer for the party ahead. $$

Curry House ul. Żeromskiego 81 & ul. Hoża 54, curry-house.pl It’s not been a distinguished year for the Indian scene, with a few old favorites slackening and newcomers failing to make a mark. But hail Curry House for their continued, ceaseless brilliance. That includes the hottest vindaloo for hundreds of miles! Evolving from a glorified hut out in far-flung Bielany (which is still going strong), they’ve recently upgraded and opened a new venue bang in the city center.

House of Curry ul. Patriotów 11 A, house-of-curry.pl Heat seekers can ‘enjoy’ a genuine death-by-fire experience at House of Curry, though far milder curries are available for more sensitive palettes – either way, the experience is fantastic, and good news for those stuck out in the depths of Józefów.

Karma (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 501 400 386,

iGrek (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 28 (enter from Pl. Przymierza), tel 22 114 00 06, i-grek.pl Modernizing the whole concept of how Greek restaurants look and feel, iGrek have also made this cuisine extremely accessible: if you’re on the move, choose from a number of readymade cold dishes. One source of pride is their stock of olive oils imported from Crete. $ Paros (D4) ul. Jasna 14/16, tel. 22 828 1067, parosrestauracja.pl Out of all of Warsaw’s Greek contributions Paros dazzles most with a glitzy look that’s a complete U-turn from the typical taverna look. Owned by the same team behind El Greco, the menu is identical,

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Finest Authentic listings / restaurants Indian Cuisine in Locations Around Warsaw restauracjakarma.pl Fresh, contemporary interiors impart a chic, classy look that’s leagues ahead of Warsaw’s other Indian restaurants. The food is largely impressive, with fresh ingredients and an expansive menu, though it does lack the extra punch you maybe looking for. If there’s a complaint, then it’s thus: a little timid for more robust tastes, a few extra spices in the pot wouldn’t go amiss. $$

WWW.HOUSE-OF-CURRY.PL

PATRIOTÓW 11A, FALENICA 512 533 415

WWW.CURRY-HOUSE.PL

HOŻA 54

536 443 771

ŻEROMSKIEGO 81 508 870 774

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Mandala ul. Emilii Plater 9/11 & ul. Etiudy Rewolucyjnej 9, tel. 22 428 44 54, mandalaklub. com or indiaexpress.pl Celebrating their 10th birthday this year, Mandala is well on its way to becoming a Warsaw institution. But rather than resting on their laurels, the management are using this landmark anniversary as an opportunity to rejig the menu and update their offer. Using the freshest ingredients, Mandala is characterized by its blitzing big spices and a vindaloo capable of giving the sweat glands a work out. For something calmer, the creamy mutton methi malai is a masterpiece. $ Mr. India Al. KEN 47, tel. 22 213 0689, mrindia.pl Split on two levels the design is contemporary if a little characterless: leather banquettes that leave a sweaty bum print and wood paneling. No problem though, if it looks bland then the food isn’t. That means an incredible butter chicken that’s deep and immensely satisfying. Then there’s the vindaloo, an experience that leaves some close to spontaneous combustion. Undoubtedly one of the best regarded Indian restaurants in this town. $$ Namaste India (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 15, tel. 22 357 0939, namasteindia.pl Responsible for first bringing quality, budget Indian food to Warsaw, Namaste have grown from humble beginnings (three tables and cooking done in a cupboard-sized space behind a curtain) to evolve into a bona fide two-floored restaurant. Consistency, however, has become a problem. Whilst we rated a recent butter chicken as the best we’ve had for years, another Insider blasts the Madras as being, ‘the worst curry ever served!’ Good luck. $$ Tandoor (D7) ul. Marszałkowska 21/25, tel. 22825 2375, tandoor.com.pl After nearly 20 years at the helm, owner Charanjit Walia has sold up

and moved on, leaving a spiritual hole in his life-defining work. His parting shot has been a re-haul which has seen the interior modernized and brightened. Has the food suffered? Not a jot. The chicken tikka butter masala is as formidable as ever. It’s no longer the self-styled, ‘the best Indian restaurant in Poland’, but it’s deservedly retained a loyal core of customers. $$

international Aioli Inspired by Mini (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 5, aioliinspiredbymini.pl Such is the success of this venue, there are moments when the scrum at the bar threatens to spill into blood sport. The huge neo-industrial interior packs out with a young, lively demographic sinking ‘tank’ beer and powerful cocktails over a menu that chiefly encompasses pizza and burgers. $$ Aioli (D3) ul. Świętokrzyska 18, tel. 22 290 102, aioli-cantine.com It’s a jaunty space with hams hanging from hooks and long communal tables that thrive with life. Aioli’s breakfasts, sandwiches, pastas and pizzas are a lesson in clean, simple pleasure: nothing out of the world, just consistently good. This and the liberal prices mean there’s no shortage of people passing in and out the doors. $$ Ale Wino (F5) ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 628 3830, alewino.pl Dip through an archway to discover Ale Wino, a beautiful wine bar whose menu has been well tailored to the season.

Tweaked for the season is the pork belly, a Złotnicka pig adorned with apple sugar snap peas and celery mousse – gorgeous. As for the wine, put your faith in the sommelier, BEST WAWA 2015 “Chef” Oliver.

Bazar Kocha (D6) ul. Mokotowska 33, bazarkocha.pl Designed to evoke the spirit of a farmers’ market, the woodsy interior is filled with stall-style units neatly stacked with jars and pots. Yet these are not decorative decoys, but part of a thoughtful grocery offer aimed at showcasing Kocha’s own-made produce. Above all though, this is a restaurant whose menu is strongly influenced by concepts of ‘terroir’.

The giant leg of lamb falls off the bone and is a dish to recommend and remember for several months to come. $$

listings / restaurants Bibenda (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 10, tel. 502 770 303, bibenda.pl With its weathered brickwork and a long wavy bar occupying a significant chunk of the entrance, you don’t get much more casual than Bibenda. ‘True food’, their menu calls it, before expanding to rattle on about ‘fresh, seasonal ingredients and home-style techniques’. On our visit that involved a potato salad with red onion and parsley: basic stuff, but delicious when mushed together; next, soft duck thigh placed on top of a tangy red cabbage reduction and served with charred parsnips; and dessert, a pink beetroot cake that was gobbled in seconds. $$ BEST WAWA 2015 “Casual Dining”

equally outstanding: we fell in love with a passion fruit semi-freddo with strawberries marinated in Grand Marnier. $$ Dekant Wine Bar (F5) ul. Zajęcza 15, dekant.com.pl Not just a contender for Warsaw’s best new wine bar, but also Warsaw’s best new restaurant! The tuna tartar comes with the added ka-boom of a nose clearing wasabi, while the filet mignon (a snip at zł. 79) is simply astonishing. The surprise are the ash-cooked potatoes, beautiful things with a char that wows. The desserts are few in number but

Der Elefant (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, tel. 22 890 0010, derelefant. com This leviathan restaurant unravels in a maze of wrought iron and monochrome tiles – beautiful to look at (it was created by Oscar winning set designer Allan Starski), it’s caused a stir for more than just this alone.

Where once the menu looked like it was devised by throwing darts at a cookbook, the focus has now been narrowed. While

Brasserie Warszawska (E5) ul. Górnośląska 24, tel. 22 628 9423, brasseriewarszawska.pl Looking for classic cuisine with no daft flights of fancy? Here you have it.

At a time when everyone wants to be Ferran Adrià, Brasserie has both a menu and interior that you can understand: pan-fried foie gras; elegant beef Rossini; and sinful apple tarte tatin, all served inside posh interiors of zinc-plated mirrors and chessboard floors.

Their Michelin Bib Gourmand is a source of pride, but it’s the number of repeat clients that are the ultimate paean to the skills of chef Mateusz Wichrowski. $$$

Bułkę przez Bibułkę ul. Zgoda 3 & ul. Puławska 24, bulkeprzezbibulke.pl When Bułkę przez Bibułkę was opened the idea was simple – to create a boutique version of Subway: a high quality sandwich shop people would value.

But after they started serving breakfast, the whole thing snowballed into a more bistro-style offer. Now there’s a second venue on Zgoda, it’s not just the quality that’s contributed to the success, but the atmosphere as well. $$ Concept 13 (D4) ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7373 You’d expect a rooftop meal at Poland’s ultimate luxury department store to cost the earth, but that’s not the case. The zł. 50 lunch deal allows Joe Public to enjoy the considerable skills of Dariusz Barański. That he manages to create different pieces of art each and every afternoon is a testament to his talent – fellow chefs and foodies privately talk of him as a Michelin star in the making. $$$

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Original Indian Cuisine

some of the dishes are strictly middling, the filet mignon (zł. 69) is one of the best meat deals in town in terms of quality / price / consistency. $$ Dom ul. Mierosławskiego 12, tel. 509 165 712 Here’s the very epitome of casual dining: set on the ground floor of a suburban house, the warm corners and garden views give Dom a real sense of homey charm. In line with all that is a menu that celebrates simple, honest cooking. Everyone who visits ends up loving the place. $$

Created by Jarosław Voitiuk, our menu is influenced by seasonal produce and it is mostly based on fresh fish and seafood delivered daily from Spain. Find a classic cuisine with a modern twist and a beautiful game of colours and form matched with award-winning wines and unique cocktails

Dyletanci (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44A, dyletanci.pl Filled with crisp, modern citizens that radiate confidence, Dyletanci introduces itself as a bistro set with green banquette and Tom Dixon lamps.

The wine selection is among the best in the nation, while the cooking has been left to Rafał Hreczaniuk, a workaholic chef with outrageous talent. His zander fillet thrills with every bite. $$ Grand Kredens (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 111, tel. 22 629 8008, kredens.com.pl This mighty veteran continues to draw a steady custom on account of a wide-reaching menu that aims to keep everyone happy – and it usually does. The design is surreal to say the least, and is laid out in such a way as to always guarantee a lively atmosphere. $$ Joseph’s Bistro & Wine (B1) ul. Inflancka 4, josephs.pl Spacious and smooth on the eye, Joseph’s has the feel of a place where good things happen: and indeed they do. For starters there’s a visually enticing tuna tartar, not to mention gherkin with rhubarb and cheese. It’s frankly remarkable with all sorts of tastes popping out thanks to a marinade that involves passionfruit, chili, vinegar and maple syrup. As a main, don’t miss the duck breast: a simple thing of beauty that’s given extra vigor with a star anise demi-glace. $$

club

ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 516 995 690, www.zmianaklimatu.pl

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Kaskrut (D6) ul. Poznańska 5, tel. 22 622 5438, facebook. com/dwichlab Back after a short break, this haunt has a high communal seating plan and hip, buzzy foodie crowd: fit in by taking pics of the food. The exciting menu is a temporary work that changes every two weeks. The place is known for its trial-and-error attitude: combinations that don’t work get binned

listings / restaurants before making a public debut. Servings are artistic, excellent and heavily influenced by French and North African cuisine. $$ La Brasserie Modern (D3) ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8332, sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com The interior of Didier Gomez whispers intimacy, yet it also embraces notions of space and light.

The casual elegance that emanates from the design is accented by warm colors, low banquettes and glinting mirrors. Acting as a ballast to it all is an open kitchen, in which you’ll find Executive Chef Maciej Majewski honing his art. His is a menu that fits seamlessly with the surrounds: a fresh, modern look at French cuisine, but one that values clarity and simplicity. $$

Loft (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 668 016 964, restauracjaloft.pl Color, that’s what Loft has. It’s everywhere – from the design, which is all bubble shaped lights and splashy, bright cushions, to the drinks: extravagant cocktails that possibly glow in the dark. The menu is full of playful experimentation, something reflected by a seasonal menu that has, in the past, presented such choices as chicken with strawberries. $$ Manoush (D4) ul. Jasna 10, manoush.pl It’s rare to see Beef Wellington on a Warsaw menu, and even rarer to find it executed well. But that’s exactly what Manoush manage to do, presenting prime, pink beef wrapped in a flaky, puff pastry. The rest of the international, bistro-style menu is equally fulfilling, and includes a wondrous halibut. $$ MOD (D6) ul. Oleandrów 8, fb.com/MODOleandrow8 Chef Trisno’s menu sets his French culinary training against his Singaporean upbringing.

The outcome is a card (actually, a printed sheet of paper) that makes for dangerously enjoyable reading: duck hearts with beetroot / soy emulsion and braised red cabbage; duck confit with pok choy, soy / red wine sauce and spicy cranberry chutney. Moderate prices and funky décor (a retro mirrored wall, upside down plants hanging from the ceiling) give it an ad hoc edge and plenty of character. Note: by day its Warsaw’s top

donut store, so visit at night for their proper menu. $$ BEST WAWA 2015 “Newcomer”

Mokotowska 69 (E5) ul. Mokotowska 69, mokotowska69.com Set inside a rotunda at the tail end of the street, it’s a place that exudes elegance and class.

Most of all, however, it’s a restaurant to be enjoyed. Brought to you by the same team credited for Merliniego 5, Mokotowska’s appreciation of steak has been lifted from their elder sister. Yet the virtues of this restaurant extend beyond steak alone: the Insider enjoyed a volley of greats – creamy breaded calf brains, sophisticated smoked eel, and Mazurian crayfish served in a deep, joyous sauce of rowan berry and brandy. $$

Nowa Próżna (C3) ul. Próżna 10, nowaprozna.pl Where once Próżna was symbolic of Warsaw’s urban decay, today it’s been rebooted as a swank street of brasseries and bistros. Nowhere captures the zeitgeist with the same élan as Nowa Próżna, an intimate corner unit that feels representative of the change. Dishes to watch for include young rooster in an intense pool of jus and a zander encircled in a forest of greens: powerful stuff that leaves those assembled in a state of joy. $$ Oliva (D4) ul. Ordynacka 10/12, tel. 501 497 410, restauracjaoliva.pl The spirit of the Mediterranean hangs over Oliva, a place where a milk color palette is matched against potted herbs and soft wooden touches. The menu has riffs of Italy, Spain and Greece, with particular pride attached to their gourmet olive oils. The good news is capped by a wine list selected

by Marek Kondrat – an actor / wine merchant with a heavyweight reputation. $$ Sawa Bistro (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5, sawabistro.pl For such a busy street this stretch of Grzybowska is remarkably under-represented when it comes to restaurants of note. Sawa, therefore, offers a ray of hope. The vibrant interiors include explosions of greenery and a striking mosaic balanced out by neutral concrete www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / restaurants colors, making it the kind of place you’re happy to settle down in. Maciej Nowak, food critic extraordinaire and local restaurant kingmaker, raved about the tapas, though beyond his recommendations we can suggest the duck confit. $$ Secado (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 66, tel. 608 707 799, secado.com.pl Casual, intimate interiors complement a menu that’s expanded from its original Latin leanings. Everything we’ve tried here has been close to culinary gold,

and that includes the surf & turf, tortillas and the roast beef. $$ Socjal (E4) ul. Foksal 18, tel. 787 181 051 Looking raw, industrial and refreshingly ascetic, the principal feature of Socjal is a long communal table that lends a celebratory buzz. Menu highlights include homemade pasta and ravioli as well as pizzas that are held in particularly high regard. The location on Foksal makes affords opportunities for people watching. $$

Soul Kitchen Bistro (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 18A, soulkitchen.pl If the previous venue was all slanted towards low-pitched business conversation then the new one is positively festive in comparison: scuffed brickwork, tall bar stools, a long communal table, etc. The seasonal menu is a pick-and-mix of small-to-medium plates, including a halibut gravlax, whose delicate taste juxtaposes well against the rougher, earthier kick of the radish, and crayfish presented in a bird’s nest of green beans, fennel and leek. For mains, look for

Loft is the perfect place to pause for a moment for a coffee, to meet with friends for lunch or a late dinner – most of all, it’s a chance to escape the city bustle while remaining in the heart of Warsaw. ul. Złota 11 tel. 668 016 964 restauracjaloft.pl

Lebanese Restaurant

Le Cedre 61

opposite the zoo Al. Solidarności 61, Praga Tel 22 670 11 66

Still the Best after all these years (since 1997)!

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Le Cedre 84

opposite the court Al. Solidarności 84 Tel 22 618 89 99

www.lecedre.pl

listings / restaurants the braised beef. $ Stixx (A4) Pl. Europejski 4A, tel. 22 340 4040, stixx.pl A quite extraordinary concept that stands out as Warsaw’s most ambitious gastronomic project for years. Shoehorned between the Hilton and the dazzling Warsaw Spire, the first thing to strike visitors about Stixx is its size: immense. Despite that, an intelligent design means intimacy is never short in supply. The menu is bold, featuring elements of Polish, Asian and Italian cooking, an idea that sounds absurdly risky – so it speaks volumes for the kitchen staff that even in their first infant days it looks like a success story in the making: already, a few people are asking if it’s the best Indian food in the city… $$

Strefa (C3) ul. Próżna 9, tel. 22 255 0850, restauracjastrefa.pl There’s a swan white elegance here, with lots of pristine colors and smart, smooth-talking service. What a refreshing change. Chef Jarosław Walczyk favors sous-vide techniques, and his is a magic, masterful hand – his duck is flawless, and the homemade ice cream with seasonal fruits is quite a follow-up. $$ Warburger Na Talerzu (B4) ul. Żelazna 58/62 The easiest mistake one can make is to think this is a burger joint – in part it is, but the whole truth is that it’s so much more. A complete upgrade from their original joint in Mokotów, the real attraction is an enticing page of more-ish, meaty mains: oxtail, beef cheeks and other snips of bits and offal. $$

Wilcza 50 (D5) ul. Wilcza 50, dwietrzecie.waw.pl The helter skelter culinary history of Wilcza has seen umpteen openings and closings, and this L-shaped corner unit has been the principal killing field. The latest development has seen the acclaimed Dwie Trzecie rebrand as Wilcza 50 and revamp their menu. Big on natural, local ingredients, the cooking is modern and inspired. $$

italian Da Gusto ul. Przemysłowa 31/33, tel. 22 498 11 10, dagusto.com.pl A high-performing neighborhood joint with open, industrial interiors and a menu that feels classically Italian. The thin crust pizzas are a big deal here and have a solid local following. $$ Dziurka od Klucza (E3) ul. Radna 13, tel. 500 150 494 An inviting Italian restaurant in which curious doors sit embedded into the walls, as if waiting to be opened by the keys that hang on the tree outside. Striking a lavender look, the magic of this restaurant is affirmed by its wonderful pasta and intimate style. $$

Enoteka (C1) Rynek Nowego Miasta 13/15, enotekapolska.pl This L-shaped space feels completely correct: tall ceilings, big windows, marble floors and an overwhelming sense of light and sun. The mood is good. Food matches the serious wine list and includes a rich topinmabur soup, creamy Agnolloti pasta and a hearty steak. These are not attempts at a kitchen revolution, rather a concentrated focus on a menu that makes sense. $$ Focaccia (D2) ul. Senatorska 13/15, tel. 22 829 6969, focaccia.pl The Insider’s visit went something like this: wrist-thick octopus with an arc of yellow mousse, conversation stopping beef tenderloin alongside a glistening pool of madeira sauce and then an orange ice cream with caramel and ginger that soon merged into a big gooey brew of chocolatey mess.

The only surprise is there’s no Italian in the kitchen – it appears they don’t need one.

This is seriously talented cooking inside an interior that fresh and light and reflective of the food. $$

week – even their Facebook page warns of 20-minute waiting times for a table alone.

Learning this, some storm off in a huff – they need their heads checked, for this is Warsaw’s best pizza. $ Si (C3) ul. Marszałkowska 115 From the makers of Secado comes a new downtown venture: Si, a fun Italian stop with homemade pasta, an array of pizza and a hefty choice of cocktails.

Geared towards good times, a list of rotating daily offers has done a fair job of drumming up trade. $$

PERFECT ITALIAN CUISINE IN THE HEART OF MURANÓW ul. Pokorna 2/U26 tel. 516 754 300 www.trattoriamurano.pl Open Mon-Sun 11:30-22:00

Mąka i Woda (D4) ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 91 87 Purists applaud an approach that uses a custommade oven from Naples and imported ingredients such as 00 Caputo flour and DOP certified San Marzano tomatoes.

Scrupulously authentic, it’s no wonder that it’s packed to the gunnels every night of the www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / restaurants

Trattoria Murano (B1) ul. Pokorna 2, tel. 516 754 300, trattoriamurano.pl Boosted by a number of new real estate projects, Muranów is in the midst of an unlikely renaissance. A direct knock-on has been the birth of numerous restaurants, though few can compete with Trattoria Murano. Looking dapper with its zigzagging brick patterns, circular lights, and large summer terrace, the good mood is further enhanced by a highly credible menu that scores well on the Italian classics. The bistecca di manzo (beef tenderloin with green pepper sauce) is a wonder. $$

japanese & sushi Benihana (C4) ul. Twarda 2/4, benihanapoland.com Fire, flash, show and sizzle: the Benihana experience merges cooking with cabaret with

diners sat ringside around teppanyaki grills.

These cooking stations are the stage for the Benihana crew to demonstrate their riveting range of nifty knifework and daredevil antics.

Outside of the realm of the grill, the sushi is also strikes the right spot. $$ Omami (D5) ul. Mokotowska 29 (enter from Krucza) Sushi has been side-lined and ramen is rising.

Opened a few months ago, Omami promise four types of ramen, not to mention steamed buns and other budget-minded Japanese options. $ Om nom nom (D5) ul. Kurcza 41/43, tel. 794 925 075, fb.com/ omnomnom.sushito Japanese meets Mexican: if there’s a more unlikely culinary marriage, then we’ve yet to hear it. Set inside a colorful, wacky space, the specialty here is the sushito, a long sushi wrap filled with the likes of sweetcorn, jalapenos and chicken panko. In the words of one established restaurateur, this is ‘a place for rich kids who

don’t have a clue about food.’ That said, it hasn’t stopped the place enjoying massive local success. If you like your eating habits to break the norm, then you could well enjoy it. $$ Sakana Sushi Bar ul. Burakowska 5/7 tel. 22 636 0505, ul. Moliera 4/6, tel. 22 826 5958, & ul.

Wąwozowa 6, lok.10B, tel. 22 498 8899, sakana.pl Sushi as a fashion statement?

That’s what you find in Sakana, a place where the glam and the great of Warsaw peacock around with feathers on display. Ignoring the general vanity and unpleasantness, one can’t help but applaud the sushi – if there was one winner in the sushi wars of the noughties, then Sakana was it. $$ Shoku (A4) ul. Karolkowa 30, shoku.pl In local terms, this has to be amongst the most blogged about restaurants of the year thus far. While it actually opened several months back, it’s only now that the place is gathering steam and

AUTHENTIC POLISH CUISINE

Krakowskie Przedmieście 64 tel. +48 22 826 4770 email. info@delicjapolska.pl www.delicjapolska.pl

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listings / restaurants getting recognized thanks to word-of-mouth.

In truth, it’s not hard to see what the fuss is about: occupying a cool, almost industriallooking spot not far from the Rising Museum, Shoku offers an excellent menu of Asian-style tapas and small plates inside a buzzy background that’s never short of custom. The tuna steak is recommended. $$ Sushi Zushi (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 420 3373, sushizushi.pl The mania for sushi is in recess, and that’s a good thing – the rogue operators are dead or dying off, and are survived by the best. And make no mistake, Sushi Zushi continue to be one of the No. 1 ex-pat choices. Appreciated by a stunning crowd, the rolls are often bold, creative and always astonishingly fresh. $$ Tomo (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2344, tomo. pl While Warsaw’s other sushi stops gather cobwebs Tomo packs out each night – that should say enough. With the maki, sushi and

sashimi bobbing past on wooden platters, this place aims for fast, maximum turnover without ever making the diner feel second best. $$ Uki Uki (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, tel. 728 827 705, ukiuki.pl How much do the locals appreciate Warsaw’s original udon bar? Enough to queue outside the door? That’s right. Dining is a close quarters experience here, but is done so without complaint: that electric pasta maker turns out noodles of such chewy goodness that everyone leaves beaming. $$

jewish Pod Samsonem (C1) ul. Freta 3/5, tel. 22 831 1788, podsamsonem.pl Operating since the 1950s – crazy when you think about it. This is the place for an ordinary meal in an ordinary space. The menu mixes aspects of Polish and Jewish cooking, and fails to do a good job of either. $

korean Miss Kimchi (B4) ul. Żelazna 58/62, tel. 570 186 066 Cheap and cheerful Korean street food served in a small, steamy space that’s frequently packed to the rafters. Box sets come piled high with meat, rice and veg. The spotlight falls on the bibimbap, a satisfying mess of shredded veg, lively spices, a fried egg and beef bulgogi. $ Onggi (D2) ul. Moliera 2 Positive transformations aren’t confined to Ramsay’s Kitchen Nightmares: after a dreadful start characterized by bland, claggy dishes, this Korean restaurant has spun a U-turn that’s left the competition reeling. The menu is daunting in size, but contains wildly interesting finds such as a streaky bacon stir fry, spicy pickled Daikon radish and lotus root simmered in soy sauce. $$ Sora (A4) ul. Wronia 45 Usually bubbling with South

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listings / restaurants Korean customers, their reassuring presence affirms Sora’s growing reputation as the top Korean restaurant in town. Set in a piece of slightly garish new build, the menu here is as close too authentic as you’ll find in Poland, and includes a fiery kimchi salad, and an interesting bibimbap: a vegetable mix served in a spicy sauce. $$

latin & spanish Casa Pablo (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5A, tel. 22 324 5781, casapablo.pl “We give Spanish food a new twist,” declares chef Gonzalo de Salas, which explains why, in between pungent cheeses and acorn-fed Bellota ham, we find ourselves demolishing a variety of dishes that buck all notions of tradition: as a starter the beetroot-marinated salmon served with wasabi emulsion is a fine example of this.

With de Salas performing balletic tricks in the kitchen, Casa Pablo presents a masterful menu that ripples with adventure. $$

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Ceviche Bar (C4) ul. Twarda 4, cevichebar.pl Created by the award-winning Martin Gimenez Castro, Warsaw’s first specialist ceviche bar serves up various interpretations of this classic raw fish dish: the corvina is an explosion of peppy, citrusy tastes and leaves you in no doubt why some are tipping ceviche to become as big as sushi. Try for yourself inside a contemporary space in which the dining area merges seamlessly with a kitchen decorated with a mural of Maradona. $$ BEST WAWA 2015 “Foreign Chef” Tapas Gastrobar (A4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 251 1310, tapasbar.pl The engaging design features scuffed timber tables supported by rescued factory metal, open ductwork and elaborate floor tiles of Iberian persuasion. But the food is what everyone is talking about: the first class gazpacho, prepared onsite then served in a bottle, is full of refreshing zing, while the beef cheek is pure melty tenderness.

Our favorite, though, are the patatas bravas,

perfectly fried potatoes served in a ballsy tomato sauce. Just amazing. $$

mexican Gringo Bar (E9) ul. Odolańska 15, tel. 22 848 9523, gringobar.pl A Mexican wave is upon us, and high time too. After years of suffering frozen ingredients, timid flavors and daft Mariachi music to persuade us it’s all authentic, a raft of new cut-price eateries are showing the rest how it’s done. Cooked and folded by fist bumping lads in back-to-front caps and baggy t-shirts, the food at Gringo is fiery, fresh and full of zing. There are detractors who claim this is a Polonized version of this cuisine, but the informal Gringo remains one of the market leaders. $ Urban Burritos (D6) ul. Piękna 22, urbanburritos.pl It’s here, in this unassuming subterranean world, that people gather for what is being hyped as

listings / restaurants Warsaw’s top burrito. Offering fillings of pork, beef, chicken and Portobello mushroom, wraps come expertly constructed and served with salsas that sing with gusto. Set within shouting distance of the US Embassy, peak times see Urban Burritos fill to the seams with America’s finest. $

middle eastern Falafel Bejrut (B2) ul. Nowolipki 15 Light, bright and buzzing with custom, this cheerful venture has a small scattering of seating and an expanded menu whose talking point is award-winning falafel. The hummus, too, is pretty amazing. $

Le Cedre (E1) Al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166, www.lecedre.pl With the decadent dazzle of

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a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops. $$

Le Cedre 84 (B3) Al. Solidarności 84, tel. 22 618 8999, lecedre.pl Le Cedre just keep on getting it right. Authenticity is key in this chainlette (well, there’s another across the river), as you’ll discover when talking to Tony, the Lebanese owner. To see the diversity of this cuisine, order the balbaak (six cold starters) or the byblos (six hot). And food aside, it’s the atmosphere that carries them that extra yard: the whole philosophy of this cuisine is to share and share alike, making it a uniquely engaging experience when dining with friends. $$

polish

Ale Gloria (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7080, alegloria.pl Who said romance was dead?

Here wedding white colors are fused with a strawberry motif inside this gourmet fave.

Keeping patrons returning are aromatic dishes with a contemporary twist – try the duck in rose sauce. $$$

Czerwony Wieprz (Red Hog) (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 22 850 3144, czerwonywieprz. pl Shush! Big Brother is watching in the Red Pig, but the beady-eyed tyrants who stare down from the portraits do

Restauracja Stary Dom ul. Puławska 104 / 106, 02-620 Warszawa

tel.: (+48) 22 646 42 08 www.restauracjastarydom.pl

Restauracja Zielnik ul. Odyńca 15, 02-608 Warszawa tel.: (+48) 22 844 35 00 www.restauracjazielnik.pl

Restauracja PAPU

Al. Niepodległości 132/136, 02-554 Warszawa

tel.: (+48) 22 856 77 88 www.restauracjapapu.pl

BREAKFAST SERVED ALL DAY

Plac Bankowy 4, Warszawa ZdrowaKonkurencja.pl +48 572 322 222

listings / restaurants little to impede the sense of revelry. A cheeky celebration of days of yore, this commiethemed restaurant is always great fun. The menu is a humorous affair divided between dishes for the proletariat and the dignitary.

Another vodka, comrade, and the first secretary’s pork loins while you’re there! $$

Delicja Polska (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 64, tel. 22 826 4770, delicjapolska.pl Looking stately (pink bows, gilt touches and immaculate linen) but never stuffy, Delicja have a modern Polish menu that includes sous-vide salmon marinated in beetroot leaves, then topped with horseradish foam and dill emulsion.

Brilliant. But then so was everything else we tried, including the exquisite seasoned roast beef. $$

RESTAURANT &

VODKA

AT E L I E R

Elixir by Dom Wódki (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl The dashing interior causes you to stop, look and touch. On one side, a gleaming bar with twinkling bottles, and on the other, a smart series of rooms whose ash-colored tones are punctuated with dashes of copper. The menu has a traditional heart yet a contemporary style, and includes golonka to make the heart flutter: glorious slow-cooked meat alongside horse radish ice cream and a creamy cabbage mousse. The vodka pairing menu is essential! $$

Folk Gospoda (B3) ul. Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605, folkgospoda.pl Be honest, sometimes all you want to do is slather lard on a big hunk of bread before surrounding yourself with little shots of ice cold vodka. You wouldn’t call it cultivated, but there are occasions when a good kneesup around a rough wooden table is exactly what’s required. And while you’re there, why not add platters of meat to the scene, a crackling fireplace and a mountain band. Folk Gospoda do all that making them the default favorite for a traditional night out. $$

Kafe Zielony Niedzwiedź (E4) ul. Smolna 4, tel. 731 996 006, kafezn.pl Exceeding all expectations in their second year, the Green Bear has turned into the mothership for all things relating to slow food: if in doubt, check the menu, an ode to provenance that comes complete with detailed biographies of their suppliers. Using creative techniques, this restaurant modernizes Polish food and rolls it out inside a stylish building popular with people who look like they might well be famous. Incidentally, the sea buckthorn cream was our top dessert of 2015. $$ Kieliszki na Próżnej (C3) ul. Próżna 12, tel. 501 764 674, kieliszkinaproznej.pl You’ll find Kieliszki na Próżnej, the latest restaurant to mark the rehabilitation of Próżna, so named after the 1,116 wineglasses that hang tantalizingly over the bar. As an anchor feature the suspended glassware is arresting, and equaled only by a long stretch of wall art doodled by Mariusz Tarkawian. The food matches up to the interiors, with a modern Polish menu that – on our visit – involved a thick, brilliantly spreadable foie gras pate, a thick slab of brawn and a delicate piece of moist Baltic cod. It’s pure seasonal comfort. $$

‘Simplicity, elegance and atmosphere’

Cafe • Wine Bar • Restaurant • Whisky Bar • Wine Cellar ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 515 037 001 www.hoza.warszawa.pl www.facebook.com/hoza25 Open 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-21:00

Kmicic (D1) ul. Piwna 27, kmicicrestauracja.pl Aiming to evoke the spirit of pre-war Warsaw, Kmicic is something of a veteran on the Old Town circuit, and as such a perennial favorite of passing tourists. The menu leans heavily towards traditional and is noted for its game including pheasant, venison and boar. $$ Mała Polana Smaków (F9) ul. Belwederska 13/44, tel. 22 400 8048, polanasmakow.pl Put simply, it works on every level: from the service to the space – outside, a terrace featuring upcycled crates overlooking Morskie Oko, and on the inside, a cute little room with woodsy bits and big glass jars of mystery ingredients. It’s casual, but still fit for more serious roles: e.g. girlfriend night. And the food: exceptional.

Lots of seasonally changing choices that on our visit meant salmon sausage matched with beetroot and horseradish sauce along with pinches of lavender and fennel. $$ Opasły Tom (E4) ul. Foksal 17, kregliccy.pl Sneaked off a lively street, guests duck down into a chain of two narrow-ish chambers that, whilst not exactly www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / restaurants casual, feel comfortable and familiar. Agata Wojda’s cooking is sublime, and on our latest trip include a gentle goose confit rested on pumpkin puree and prune sauce and a smoked trout mousse full of unexpectedly vivid flavors. It’d be easy to write this off as just simple stuff done well, but you know that’s not the case: if it really were that easy, everyone would be doing it $$ BEST WAWA 2015 “Modern Polish”

Papu (D9) al. Niepodległości 132/136, tel. 22 856 7788, restauracjapapu.pl The elegant décor sees wood-paneled walls lined with champagne bottles, making it an experience that is at once intimate and romantic. Chef Bartek Kędra’s menu is specifically strong when it comes to white and red meats: order the beef rib. It’s a massive, brutal instrument that could be used to club someone to death. Fall-off-the-bone good, this Flintstone monster is seriously memorable. Other courses are more sophisticated, and include a knee trembling, lipstick red strawberry tartar. $$

Traditional Polish cuisine Live music The best wine, regional beer and spirits Grand Kredens - 19 years full of tradition

Aleje Jerozolimskie 111 tel. +48 22 629 80 08 Mob. +48 697 900 000 kredens@kredens.com.pl www.kredens.com.pl Share your opinion

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Podwale Piwna Kompania (D2) ul. Podwale 25, tel. 22 635 6314, podwale25.pl Prowling mountain bands generate a beer hall atmosphere, while the courtyard garden – designed to replicate a Mitteleuropa square – is one of the best you’ll find. But the obscene portions can’t mask what is pretty poor food. Go there for the experience, if nothing else. $ Przystawki (B1) ul. Stawki 3, tel. 22 299 1619, przystawki. com Welcome to Muranów: the black hole of local gastronomy. But change is in the air – first came the opening of Jaś i Małgosia, and now comes Przy Stawki. Both keep it simple, gunning for a straight forward menu that presents the kind of cooking you’d like to see at the in-laws: local ingredients cooked with care. In a nutshell, this is Polish home cooking at moderate prices. More places like this, please. $ Restauracja Polska “Różana” (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 22 848 1225, restauracjarozana.com.pl The rarified atmosphere of Różana is a pleasure indeed. Close to the frontline of Mokotów / Śródmieście, you’d never guess the proximity of the center.

Seated in their garden, one feels removed from the city – a fountain burbles quietly in the background, starlings hop around the trees. From the inside, one hears the distant tinkle of the house pianist. Just being here is a thrill in itself, and the food is a Polish dining extravaganza served from the top table: farmhouse duck, saddle of venison, etc. $$ Słoik (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 600 396 688, restauracjasloik.pl Jarheads will love Słoik, a place lined with glass jars brimming with colorful ingredients and bright preserves. Find natural Polish produce and traditional-sounding dishes treated with a careful and contemporary hand. The approach pits modernist against classic, and the winner is, well, you.

This is traditional Polish food updated for the discerning, latter day palate – and it’s really quite something. $

Wielkanoc pełna smaku!

Smaki Warszawy (D5) Wyśmienity smak żurku z grzybami i białą kiełbasą, pasztet z dziczyzny www.smakiwarszawy. ul. Żurawia 47/49, z konfiturą z cebuli i rodzynek, drożdżowe baby i mazurki... plWielkanoc Well-known onbędą the Warsaw scene as a - niech twoje święta pełne smaku. delightful Polish restaurant, Smaki Warszawy is also renowned for its cakes. Smiling staff pour amazing lattés and serve up slices of to-die-for pistachio cream cake. $$ Zapraszamy do składania zamówień świątecznych: CENTRUM: ul. Żurawia 47/49, Warszawa, tel. +48 (22) 621 82 68, godziny otwarcia: 7:00 - 22:00 ŻOLIBORZ: ul.Felińskiego 52, Warszawa, tel. +48 608 046 406, godziny otwarcia: 9:00 - 20:00 www.smakiwarszawy.pl

Solec 44 (F4) ul. Solec 44, tel. 798 363 996, solec.waw.pl Beaver tail one month, carp heads the next.

Combing the farms and forests of Poland for his ingredients, chef Aleksander Baron’s menu is a daring exploration of his nose-totail philosophy with many of his methods reprising extinguished traditions. It’s a real experience, and one that’s enjoyed inside a spontaneous looking, cut-price interior that clacks and clatters to the sound of grown-ups playing board games. $$

Stary Dom ul. Puławska 104/106, tel. 22 646 4208, restauracjastarydom.pl A classic restaurant in style and history: back in the day it was a favorite haunt of jockeys and race goers from

listings / restaurants the horse track nearby. Pre-war recipes form the basis of the menu, with the team using seasonal produce and the latest technology to bring out its best. $$ U Fukiera (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 27 (Old Town Market Square), tel. 22 831 1013, ufukiera.pl New arrivals looking to get a grasp of local cuisine have many options in varying price brackets. U Fukiera is definitely in the big spend category, but visitors come away with a common sense of wonderment. That’s largely due to enchanting interiors that have guests exploring twinkling chambers that unravel like a fairytale. Set in a 500 year old townhouse, the beautiful backdrop is accompanied by a grand menu of duck, venison, veal and lamb. $$$ U Szwejka (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1710, uszwejka. pl Named after the fictional Czech soldier Szwejk, the food here would certainly appeal to the tubby man himself. Bestowed with Prague street signs, the food is a hardy, meaty affair, and arrives in XXXL portions.

The price to quantity (Note: not quality) ratio guarantees queues (yes, queues) that stretch out on the street every weekend. $$ Varso Vie (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 2, varso-vie.pl Despite the concrete color palette Varso Vie retains a good buzz. It helps that on one side guests are flanked by punchy bursts of modern art, and on the other, an open kitchen that’s all clamor, commotion and general rumpus.

The menu is modern Polish: duck stomachs in a flaky puff pastry with a thick smear of thyme sauce; Baltic trout served on a pinkish mush of red lentils and mint; and a coveted meringue mousse with mascarpone and passion fruit jelly. Exemplary. $$

Zapiecek Locations inc. ul. Nowy Świat 64, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska 13, tel. 22 635 61 09, & ul. Wańkowicza 1, open 11:00-22:00, CH Arkadia, zapiecek. eu Seven Warsaw locales, with our favorite found in the vaulted passages of Świętojańska. The menu is highly traditional, with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’.

It’s for the pierogi though for which they’re

famous; find approx. fifty types delivered by servers dressed like saucy country maids. $

Zielnik (D10) ul. Odyńca 15, tel. 22 844 3500, restauracjazielnik.pl A quiet Mokotów side street is the setting for this little secret. In it, flowers, lots of them, and a warming wood interior just right for winter. In summer, head instead to their glorious garden across the street in the park: adding a sophisticated twist to the holy grill, the skewered lamb is to die for. $$

seafood L’Arc (E8) ul. Puławska 16, tel. 519 000 050, larc.pl You sometimes suspect Warsaw doesn’t give seafood the respect it deserves. But the city’s shortcomings are atoned for by L’Arc. Choose from the lobsters swimming on Death Row, then settle back for a meal to die for. Likewise, the oysters and mussels never disappoint. $$ Zmianu Klimatu (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, zmianuklimatu.pl Fancy looking at tarted up Varosvians whilst eating in your own boat? Do just that at Zmianu Klimatu, a tiny restaurant that somehow manages to squeeze in a sailing boat that seats six or so people. In keeping with the maritime hint, the menu explores the deep blue sea with a small selection of seafood that includes grilled octopus, halibut and bream. $$

Polish food the way it’s meant to be...

Piwna 27 Stare Miasto (old town) tel. 22 635 3121

specialty food shops Bazar Olkuska (E10) ul. Olkuska 12 Once a sad little side street, Olkuska has evolved to become just about the worst kept secret in Warsaw. Home to the city’s top eco-market, trips here end with shopping bags filled with French cheeses, Italian hams, Hungarian sausages and fresh fruit and veg. And don’t miss a chat with the nation’s most celebrated butcher: Pan Grzegorz of Crazy Butcher.

Befsztyk ul. Puławska 176/178, tel. 22 843 6110, www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / restaurants befsztyk.pl The Prokopowicz family has come a long way since launching Befsztyk in 1994.

Top restaurants, celebs and ex-pats are listed as clients, and all agree that this operation is indisputably ‘top of the chops’. Find steaks seasoned for three weeks, gluten-free smoked meats, Merino lamb, BBQ kits and so much more. Home delivery, internet ordering and English-speaking staff round out this legend.

Bio Bazar (B4) ul. Żelazna 51/53, tel. 22 318 8855, open Wed, Fri & Sat (see website for details), biobazar.org.pl Fruit and veg in the first warehouse, some of it imported from as far as Argentina. In the second warehouse, find organic cheese varieties from sheep and goats, as well as import brands from Italy, France and the Netherlands.

British Shop (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 8, tel. 692 240 804 British food and beverages inc. cider, bacon, sausages, confectionary etc. Run by the

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same team who once operated Fish & Chips on Koszykowa, the offer has now expanded to cover non-food items like Royal Wedding souvenirs, England football paraphernalia etc.

synagogue, stock up on Kosher produce from the friendly store, before hitting up the falafel tent outside for, aside from the obvious, kosher ice cream.

Forteca Kregliccy ul. Zakroczymska 12, kregliccy.eu/forteca Spot the stars of Warsaw’s restaurant scene perusing the stalls at this weekly farmers’ market. Held each Wednesday, look for Pan Ziółko, Poland’s first celebrity farmer (!), Portobello’s from the country’s only organic mushroom farm and the magical yogurts from Mleczna Droga Manufaktura Serów.

Krakowski Kredens Various locations across town, check their website for details: krakowskikredens.pl Jams, syrups, honey and preserves, as well as hams and kiełbasa from the Galicia region.

Heritage (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17, tel. 22 857 0912 Some people use Heritage as a wine bar, while others see it as more than that. And so it is. Peruse the Italian hams and cheeses in their fridge, olive oils, sauces and of course wine. Lots and lots of wine.

Kosher Shop (C4) ul. Twarda 6 Snuck to the side of the

Kuchnie Świata Various locations, kuchnieswiata.com.pl The first stop for most ex-pats, with an offer that includes food and drinks from across the globe. The choice is vast but mainly involves tinned and packaged products. Internet ordering now also available.

La Fromagerie (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 465 2324, lafromagerie.pl Top quality cheeses produced by small producers from England, the major regions of France as well as several other countries. Also, gourmet specialities

listings / restaurants like Italian parma ham, Spanish chorizo, French sausages, and hard-to-find luxury brands from France, Italy, Greece and more.

find a widely appreciated frozen food section that include British sausages, bacon and microwave curries.

Le Targ ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), tel. 603 051 116 Find here a rather random array of products: stands display traditional meats, goat’s cheeses, unconventional preserves, Greek products, vegan ingredients… it all still seems a bit like a work in progress. The initiative is noble, however.

Mojo Picon (D5) ul. Poznańska 3, mojopicon.pl Mojo Picon specializes in vending Spanish groceries, expressly the produce of the Canary Islands.

A creditable charcuterie section is enhanced by an array of cheese, wine and jarred exotica.

Little India ul. Domaniewska 22/5, tel. 22 843 6738, littleindia.pl The definitive Indian store though it doesn’t look anything more than a pokey neighborhood store. They’ve got it all mind, from oils, beans, lentils and flour, not to mention ready meals, canned goods and cosmetics. Internet ordering available.

Maho Al. Krakowska 240/242, tel. 22 609 1548, maho.com.pl A German-run Turkish restaurant that also doubles as a butchery selling halal certified beef, veal, lamb and poultry.

Marks & Spencer Various locations inc. DT Wars & Sawa, ul.

Marszałkowska 104/122, tel. 22 551 7553, marks-and-spencer.com.pl Visit the flagship Marszałkowska branch to take advantage of the on-site bakery, but visit early as choice diminishes early. Aside from baked goods

Ostra Kuchnia ostrakuchnia.pl A superb internet shop retailing quite literally the hottest sauces known to man: brands include Blair’s, Dave’s, El Yucateco, Mad Dog, Melinda’s and many more besides. Also sell jalapenos, chili peppers, salsas and pastes. Polish-only website, but easy to navigate and superb customer service.

Samira ul. Powsińska 64A, tel. 22 825 3363, samira. pl Now in bigger and better premises, this Lebanese supermarket offers a comprehensive rundown of imported goods that ranges from spices, preserves and rubs to nuts, olives, teas and soft drinks.

Steak Club Online orders: steakclub.pl Online meat portal that will deliver the kind of beef usually only available to the top restaurants straight to your door. Expat owned and run, the repertoire has recently been extended to

include other meats such as turkey.

Targ Śniadaniowy Al. Wojska Polskiego, tel. 508 121 891, targsniadaniowy.pl The idea is a bit different as it is out in the open air, on the grass, so good weather is a must. Part healthy food market, part breakfast picnic, part educational space, part chance to get your two wheeler fixed but above all, an idyllic way to spend a Saturday morning in a beautiful part of town. Now also present in three other locations: check their web for details.

Trawa Pl. Grzybowski 10 A tight little store whose surprisingly copious food offer (which includes fresh fruit and veg from local markets) is complemented by all kinds of natural unguents, balms, oils and suchlike including those from the celebrated Lavera brand. Highly recommended.

steak houses Beef n’Pepper (C5) ul. Nowogrodzka 47A, tel. 731 307 377, beefandpepper.pl A social space that encourages friends to gather and make merry over big meaty courses. Served on heavy tree stump plates, steaks here use Polish Angus aged for a 28-day period. If you’re into the concept of sharing with your fellow man, then the Beef n’Pepper plate offers a pile of everything: wings, ribs, steak. $$

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listings / restaurants Butchery & Wine (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 502 3118, butcheryandwine.pl The Sarf London-born Bertha oven has revolutionized the way steak is cooked, retaining moisture in a way no-one thought possible. Expect robust pieces of animal full of big, brawny tastes, but there’s so much more than just meat: starters involve a sea bass ceviche that pings with citrusy flavor not to mention more-ish pork crackling that pop like fire bangers in the mouth. A place of energy and ambition, it’s a great mix of both new and classic. Bookings advised. $$ Hoża (D5) ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 603 778 275, hoza. warszawa.pl Wine and steak: it sounds so simple, but Hoża have taken two simple pleasures to another level. It’s an ebullient space with service right out of charm school, and a kitchen team with a real knowledge of cows. A red-blooded affair, the menu is a steak sensation and well paired with a handpicked wine list. $$ Merliniego 5 (E10) ul. Merliniego 5, tel. 22 646 0810, merliniego5.pl A classic looking steakhouse that swirls in shadow, brickwork and elegant touches, it’s a place to immerse yourself in an atmosphere that’s all surreptitious conversation and distant clinking glasses.

The steaks are out-of-this world, with USDA prime beef from New York’s legendary Ottomanelli & Sons and Scottish beef from London’s Smithfield Market. On our last visit

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we splurged on the Grade 9+ wagyu ‘kobe’ rib-eye and found ourselves eating the steak of a lifetime. Simply amazing. $$$

Salto (C6) ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8771, saltorestauracja.pl When Martin Gimenez Castro scooped top prize in the Top Chef program it simply confirmed what foodies had known for years: that this is a man of some talent. Now leading the kitchen in Salto, the highlight of Castro’s menu is undoubtedly the ‘steak weekends’. We challenge you to find better.

During the week opt instead for his South American inspired dishes. Salto has the hallmarks of a success story, and under Castro’s captaincy that’s a certainty to happen. $$$ BEST WAWA 2015 “Foreign Chef”

thai Thai Me Up (E4) ul. Foksal 16, thaimeup.pl Taking the spot once occupied by Papaya, Thai Me Up offers up a far more informal experience than the former, something understood by one glance at the interior: gone are the gloss finishes of yesteryear, replaced by something far more casual, fun and cluttered (check the monkey lights!). As for the food, that succeeds in bringing the fresh, snappy tastes of Asia to Foksal. The wok dishes are a forte and deserve special attention. $$

Thai Thai (C2) Pl. Teatralny 3, tel. 601 818 283, thaithai.pl In terms of design it’s little short of perfect: gold vaulted interiors lend a muted glow to a largely black on black space while serene looking Buddha’s peer on the diners below.

As for the food, that’s one big success story with plenty of lively flavors and dynamic colors. The Tom Yang Kung, a deeply nourishing fish broth that awakens the senses with a sharp, spicy jolt, is a must! $$

Thaisty (C2) Pl. Bankowy 4, tel. 730 000 024, thaisty. pl The coup here has been the recruitment of Chanunkan Duangkumma, Warsaw’s favorite Thai chef. The menu has street food inspirations and also includes several recipes passed down Duangkumma’s family line: consider the BBQ beef skewers essential.

Vivid colors and a busy open kitchen lend the place a happy buzz that lasts through the day. $$

Why Thai (E5) ul. Wiejska 13, tel. 22 625 7698, whythai.pl A calming, almost holistic interior sets the tone for a meal dominated by the rich and aromatic tastes of Thailand. For a lively,

listings / restaurants spicy start begin with a mango and cashew salad, before moving forward and onto their celebrated curries. Imported chefs keep the flavors authentic, with the pad Thai being something of a house favorite. $

vegan & wholefood Edamame Vegan Sushi (D5) ul. Wilcza 11, edamame.pl Sushi without its star ingredient sounds ridiculous, but this vegan sushi joint manages to out-manoeuver its traditional competitors by replacing belowpar fish with fresh, vegetarian produce: sugar snap peas, radish, carrots, asparagus, etc.

The results are both magical and addictive, and leave you wondering if vegan sushi stands to be Warsaw’s next trend. $$ Lokal Vegan Bistro (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, 517 615 122 Aside from a small menu consisting of more standard vegan offers, Lokal keep Homer Simpson characters in mind with regular guest slots for street food that’s given a full vegan makeover. Offhand, that’s meant vegan kebabs, cheesesteaks, burgers and zapiekanka, all of which have been pretty damn good. $ Mango Vegan Street Food (D4) ul. Bracka 20, mangovegan.pl Everything vegan that you’d actually like to eat: veggie burgers, fries, falafel, soup, a fruit salad –

here, obviously a mango salad. Especially recommended is the hummus with sun-dried tomatoes – a nice twist on a simple, classic dish. $ Momencik (D5) ul. Poznańska 16 Vegan burritos may sound wrong, but at Momencik they’re every bit as good as anything you’ll be used to. The only difference is that you won’t leave feeling like you’ve eaten a sack of socks: on the contrary, it’s got all the perky flavor that Mexican food should have, but none of the unpleasant post-meal bloaty bubbles. And it’s cheap!

Diners fork out less than zł. 22 for a lunch deal that includes homemade lemonade, a burrito and soup of the day: it’s your lucky day if that happens to be their tomato soup. $ Veg Deli (E3) ul. Radna 14 An entrance beset with candles, plant pots and seasonal veg charms people in, and they tend to stay on to dine on creative vegetarian options that nearly always hit the spot. The tacos are a bit of a disappointment, but the quinoa burger is fabulous, and the homemade Russian pierogi an absolute highlight. Even committed meat eaters recognize there’s something special going on here. $$ Vurst (G3) ul. Finlandzka 12A Who in their right mind opens a tiny, little joint in the back streets of Saska and then fills the interior with a life size Darth Vader and a board that asks customers

to: “Stay Tuned and Praise Our Lord Satan”?

Specializing in vegan hot dogs, the dawgs themselves are small and soggy: the kind of damp disappointment you buy at the gas station. $ Youmiko Vegan Sushi (D5) ul. Hoża 62, youmiko.vg Already wellestablished in Kraków, Youmiko enter Warsaw’s vegan sushi market hot on the heels of Edamame on Wilcza nearby. There’s definitely more of a hipster, ‘urban guerrilla’ feel to Youmiko, but the sushi is every bit a success. Often better than ‘the real thing’. $

vietnamese Toan Pho (D4) ul. Chmielna 5/7, tel. 888 147 307 Toan Pho’s bowls of soup with rice noodles come highly recommended; as does the chaos intrinsic to this type of casual Asian eatery.

The short menu is in Vietnamese with Polish decoding – although you can ask for an English version. $ Viet Street Food Check Facebook for location Viet Street Food is the eatery that the city has been waiting for: some dismiss it as a mere food truck, but many others have recognized it as the source of the best Vietnamese chow this country has ever seen. Find steaming bowls of pho and fabulous banh mi baguettes on sale – one that’s worth tracking down. $

THE ONLY MODERN SOUTH AMERICAN CUISINE IN WARSAW

W W W . S A LT O R E S T A U R A C J A . P L 73 Wilcza Street, tel. (22) 58 48 771

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cafes & wine bars NEW & NOTABLE

bakeries Aromat (C4) ul. Sienna 39, fb.com/piekarnia.aromat That many consider this their favorite bakery says it all. French flour and an expert baker ensure brilliant results, while the lemon éclairs deserve their own Facebook page.

Café Vincent (D3) ul. Nowy Świat 64 Queues build quickly as locals line up to buy baguettes, cinnamon rolls, lemon croissants and beautiful pains au chocolat. But people don’t just head in then out, a small wine list and brilliant people spying opportunities cause many to hang around.

FORT WINO (ul. Racławicka 99) A 19th century Tsarist brick bastion is the setting for Fort Wino, with the leafy, wooded backdrop offset by the long, looming shadows of this former military installation. The wine bar, found in a side garage, looks rough and ready but carries favor with a young, upmarket crowd looking to slum it a little. The raised terrace, filled with upcycled furnishings, is the place to be seen.

Charlotte (D6) Al. Wyzwolenia 18 (enter from pl.

Zbawiciela), bistrocharlotte.com While the fancy crowd isn’t to everyone’s liking, the atmosphere feels truly continental: even more so in warm weather when the terrace packs out.

Krucza 23 Café & Bakery (D5) ul. Krucza 23, fb.com/krucza23 There’s lots of organic activity on the menu, plus an exciting spread of eco-coffee from far-flung nations. Find all this done in a post-industrial interior that makes use of lots of concrete and natural light.

Paul Various locations, boulangeries-paul.com Specializing in pastries, baguettes and other baked goods, this French chain have rapidly entrenched themselves in the capital following their debut last year.

CASABLANCA BIAŁY KAMIEŃ (ul. Żaryna 2B, casablancawaw.com.pl) From the same team behind Na Lato comes Casablanca, a versatile venue that muddies the lines between café, restaurant, wine bar and hangout. Equally comfortable in each of these roles, it’s a place that feels fresh and cosmopolitan, not to mention completely in tune with the swank, glass surrounds.

More to the point, it’s given wings to a part of Mokotów that before felt quite sterile.

Rozbrat 20 Bakery & Wine Corner (F5) ul. Rozbrat 20, rozbrat20.com.pl Best known for fathering Butchery & Wine, Daniel Pawełek makes his mark on Powiśle with the launch of Rozbrat 20, a high-end bakery that’s worthy of the rave reviews. Aside from baguettes, muffins, croissants, etc. this smart corner unit has a superb wine list and a smattering of main courses that include flat iron steak.

SAM many locations, sam.info.pl Co-owner Małgorzata Kusina-Doran is a fine-bread conwww.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / cafés & wine bars noisseur, honing her skills at a bread-making course chaired by Raymond Blanc. While SAM have expanded to cover numerous locations, this has not been to the cost of the overall quality.

Zdrowa Konkurencja (C2) Pl. Bankowy 4, zdrowakonkurencja.pl Aside from piping hot, fresh wheels of bread, visitors are popping in to collect readymade bagels and sandwiches loaded with pulled pork, pastrami and other quick bites.

desserts Crepe Café (E3) ul. Dobra 19 Is there such a thing as the perfect pancake? If not, then Crepe Café certainly comes close. Enjoy them in a contemporary interior that’s tiny in size: grab a seat up on the mezzanine level.

Cukiernia Stary Dom ul. Puławska 104/106, restauracjastarydom. pl A beautifully elegant confectionary that evokes memories of Old Poland. Flock wallpaper and checkered floors add to the high tea ambience, as do the lines of glinting bottles and a counter stocked with temptations. Pastry chef Mariusz Palarczykow is a king in his field.

Deseo (H3) ul. Angorska 27, deseopatisserie.com Conducting operations from a glassed-off laboratory at Deseo’s mothership in Saska Kępa, watching pastry chef Piotr Chylarecki at work is to witness a mix of magic and science: you’re not sure which. Calculated precision and intricate methods collide with passion and understanding for the products at hand, themselves sourced from afar afield as Madagascar and the Dominican Republic.

The denouement is a selection of pralines and cakes that cause you to stop and stare at these intricate baubles.

MOD (D6) ul. Oleandrów 8 A place full of everlasting love for the humble donut. Inspired by their travels to New York, owners Kamila and Patrycja have filled a hole in the market by creating a cool spot that’s committed to natural ingredients and the artisan process.

Those glistening technicolors you see are

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down to the use of fresh fruit and dried flowers! Soft and chewy, enjoy dazzling flavors such as mango or hibiscus.

and improved it with excellent breads and a crowd that’s a little less pleased with itself and a little more normal.

Odette (D4) ul. Górskiego 6/07, odette.pl Almost holistic in its ambience, the obstacle-free interior utilizes aspects of space and light, causing attention to naturally fall on the long, sleek counter that occupies one end. It’s here that sweet creations glimmer behind glass like precious little gems.

Café Iluzja (C9) ul. Narbutta 50A, afeiluzja.pl Bathed in white, black and shades of grey, it’s an allusion to the black-and-white films of bygone days. The interiors as a whole were designed in a 1950s vibe and the massive armchairs are by far the best part. What more do you expect from a café inside a cult socialist era cinema.

Sucre Various locations, see: sucre.pl While Sucre are best known for their ice cream, outside of summer people flock here on account of their dazzling macaroons.

cafés Blikle (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 35 (check website for other locations), blikle.pl There’s a cultured, pre-war look to Blikle, a proud cafe with a 100-year history. Famous former clients include Charles de Gaulle who swore by their donuts.

Bubbleology (D4) ul. Chmielna 26, bubbleology.pl Looking like a 26th century version of Willy Wonka’s factory (psychedelic colors, Japanese lettering, and doors marked Top Secret), this place is no ordinary café. But that’s down to the drinks, rather than the décor. Warsaw’s original bubble tea stop offers an arsenal of fruit flavors concocted by zany-looking lab-coated staff.

Bułkę przez Bibułkę ul. Puławska 24 & ul. Zgoda 3, tel. 794 000 634, bulkeprzezbibulke.pl There’s a feminine style to this cafe, what with its cute, girly pastels, petite plant pots and woodsy finishes. But no matter what your gender or age, there’s something immediately sunny and positive about this place. Slow food sandwiches arrive on wooden boards, there’s pretty homemade desserts and a careful choice of wine: falling in love with it is easy.

Być Może (E7) ul. Bagatela 14, tel. 519 000 014, bycmoze. com.pl It’s all about artisan bread and breakfast in the industrial looking Być Może. It’s taken the concept of Charlotte (groan, there’s even a communal table),

Café Lorentz (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 3, cafelorentz.pl Set at the front of the National Museum this place has a nice indoor area with high ceilings and minimalist decorations and a green outdoor area populated by wickers chairs and hammocks (obviously, depending on the season).

As is the rage in Warsaw, the menu is light, natural and healthy.

Cava (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 30, cava.pl A prime spot on Nowy Świat’s red carpet keeps business brisk in this high-end cafe. Premium Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee available, and best enjoyed on a seasonal terrace that can barely be bettered for its people spotting opportunities.

Charlotte Menora (C4) Pl. Grzybowski 2, bistrocharlotte.pl If the air is smug and self-satisfied, there’s a good reason for that: Charlotte have come to embody modern urban Poland: energetic, ambitious and ferociously trend conscious.

And to think, some look at it as a mere bakery. Occupying a long space, the latest outpost of this café chain doesn’t overlook the area’s Jewish heritage, with the menu featuring several Jewish delicacies: the bagels are pretty good.

Coffee Karma (D6) pl. Zbawiciela 3/5, coffeekarma.eu Order a smoothie, switch off the phone, open a book – it’s that sort of place. Concerts and art shows figure in their repertoire, as does rather good coffee.

Cophi (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60 Deviating away from ‘the Warsaw look’ (i.e. concrete, pipes, etc.), Cophi is the kind of place you actually want to stay in: homey and intimate but at the same time light and modern. You can sense the thought and passion behind this operation

listings / cafés & wine bars from the staff – find them using Aeropress, Chemex, siphon and drip methods with almost scientific precision in their quest to serve you what some are already claiming to be Warsaw’s best coffee.

Czuły Barbarzyńca (E3) ul. Piwna 20/26, czuly.pl A Parisian-style bookstore full of steps and wobbles, nooks and alcoves. All agree there’s something special here: maybe it’s the book selection – varied, esoteric and at once compelling. Or maybe it’s the atmosphere, such that browsers anchor themselves on the sofas to lose an afternoon with their nose in a novel while sipping drip coffee. Whatever the secret ingredient is, the bookish bustle makes it the most extraordinary literary hangout in the Polish capital.

Filtry Café (A6) ul. Niemcewicza 3, filtrycafe.pl Filtry Cafe’s got great coffee, fruit shakes, cakes, and light breakfasts combined with a funky fleapit atmosphere that attracts hipster art lovers.

Francuska 30 (H4) ul. Francuska 30 An attractive modern cafe whose primary talking point is the terrace: a colorful affair shaded by dozens of umbrellas dangling from above.

How U Doin’ (D4) ul. Zgoda 13 Apparently modelled on the café that appears in Friends, as questionable

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as the premise might sound there’s no doubting that How U Doin’ have hit the ground running. Packed most hours, while the décor isn’t the most faithful replica of you’ll find of Central Perk, this spot does manage to nail the neighborhood atmosphere down to a tee.

And besides that, it works as a café in its own right: great coffee, health kicks and even a few maverick beers to their name.

Kafka Café (E3) ul. Oboźna 3, kawiarnia-kafka.pl A chessboard floor and a collection of antlers on the wall characterize Kafka, a bookstore / café whose literary collection is composed of paperbacks rescued from recycling plants.

Books are purchased by their weight (zł. 10 per kilo) while the menu includes pancakes, pastas and even doggy treats for your mutt.

Kawiarnia Fabryczna (E3) ul. Fabryczna 28/30, open 7:30-22:00, kawiarniafabryczna.pl Penning your memoirs?

Here’s the place to do so. With its natural wood floors, muted lighting and retro style chairs, Fabryczna is just about the definitive Powiśle café. Order an Ethiopian drip coffee and get that notepad out.

KluboKawiarnia Towarzyska ul. Zwycięzców 49, klubokawiarnia.net Urban cool penetrates Saska. With an interior modeled by John Strumiłło, this 50s pavilion has an ascetic design defined by polar white interiors. Contrast is provided downstairs, with deep magenta walls and retro armchairs.

Concerts, screenings and art happenings have made it into something of local cultural mainstay.

Kos (D4) ul. Chmielna 9A Kos is a place intent on stitching the neighborhood together. That much is made clear by a diverse events calendar that features a panoply of activities: yoga courses to weekend brunches via the occasional kid’s improvisation class. As commendable as these social actions are, it’s the basics that Kos do so well. Drenched in natural sunlight, perch on the windowsill and enjoy swift wifi, award-winning coffee and a menu of homemade snacks and bits. Find it inside the Jewish Community Center.

Kosmos (C4) Pl. Grzybowski 2 It’s all coming together nicely for Pl. Grzybwoski, and the opening of places like Kosmos is only good news. It’s relatively small floorplan swings in its favor, with this café’s natural intimacy working well with a design that features mismatched furnishings, a bouncy sofa, a mirrored wall and a timber-clad bar. Grab a bagel (possibly the best Warsaw’s seen?), order coffee and then fix yourself on the views of the square glistening under the first spring light.

The award-winning Enoteka Polska is back, this time with a new location in the heart of Warsaw’s historic New Town.

A perfect combo of restaurant, wine bar and wine store, aside from offering excellent Italian cuisine, we are a renowned importer with a portfolio of prestigious wine labels from across Europe. Our direct import policy allows guests to enjoy outstanding value for money.

Rynek Nowego

Miasta 13/15, enotekapolska.pl

tel. 882 048 012

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listings / cafés & wine bars Mała Ziemiańska (D7) ul. Oleandrów 2/4, malaziemianska.pl Sat as it is on a street that’s become the Center of Now, Mała Ziemiańska is a pleasing throwback to slower times. Designed to evoke the artistic spirit of the mid-19th century, this warming café is steeped in shadow and curiosities. A celebration of pre-war Warsaw, the literary pretensions of this bolthole find the walls clad with archaic books and sepia photos of the city that once was. May places like this flourish.

Ministerstwo Kawy (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 27 Sourcing their coffee from Koppi, an acclaimed Swedish roasting house, the ministry takes no short cuts in their pursuit of excellence. Utilizing Ethiopian, Costa Rican and Brazilian arabicas – some exclusive to Poland – barista Wojciech Rzytki has earned a reputation across Poland for his expert hand. Rave reviews are standard and appropriate in this standout cafe.

MiTo (D6) ul. Waryńskiego 28, mito.art.pl Café, gallery, bookstore. Of course, we’ve seen that concept before, just not done in this style. Stark white backgrounds are offset by edgy art, lending the place a Tate Modern feel, something accentuated by the earnest fashion students who gather through the day.

And there’s the toilet, a futuristic affair with piped music and a mirrored wall.

Monsieur Leon (E8) ul. Sulkiewicza 5 Found resting on the corner of a quiet residential street, Monsieur Leon is surely one of Mokotów’s best kept secrets.

Here, simplicity is the name of the game, with a brief blackboard menu that involves cheese boards, salads and a hefty croque monsieur.

With wine tipping down and conversation wafting around this compact, casual space, it doesn’t take a giant leap of imagination to think yourself in France.

living in Warsaw’s swankiest residential tower – the Cosmopolitan – had it tough, then you’ve got one more reason to envy them: the ground floor Odette Tearoom. Taking its lead from their original dessert stop on ul.

Górskiego, the sister venue peddles glorious cakes and pralines as well as a hand-picked selection of boutique teas served in a fragrant and elegant atmosphere.

OSiR (E3) ul. Tamka 40 OSiR’s manifesto declares it a ‘cycle culture’ café, which means incoming guests should brace for all kinds of bike related props in this urban, raw and ready hideout. Beyond the cycling propaganda, there’s much to recommend: rare find beers, street-style hot dogs, and a cool, tranquil crowd that livens up for DJ sets at the weekend from the likes of London Massive and Kool & the Funk.

Przystanek Powiśle (E3) ul. Browarna 6 Of the many things to like about Przystanek, it’s probably the desserts that swing it: homemade cakes and flans that cause all life to pause. Perfectly poised overlooking Park Kazimierzowski, the summer terrace is a popular spot from which to explore their small range of niche beers and wine. Outside of night time hours, many sing the praises of their creative range of tapas and snacks.

Relaks (E9) ul. Puławska 48 Generally travelling by tram for a cup of Joe sounds excessive, but that’s exactly what you’ll be doing on discovering Relaks. Expertly prepared, right down to the foam art, the baristas here use the finest imported machines and work only with fair trade, ‘specialty’ coffee. If you have time, the drip coffees are more than worth the wait.

The interiors supply a retro accent, and are lapped up by a very fashion aware crowd.

Niezłe Ziółko Café & Deli (D5) ul. Krucza 17 A shrine to pure and healthy eating, this friendly café doesn’t just brew a great coffee, but bakes its own bread and produces its own yogurt. Sit in the loft to look down on shoppers scurrying to Mokotowska, and on the way out, check out ‘Grandma’s Cupboard’ in the corner: jams, spreads and olive oils are there to buy for home.

Resort (C2) ul. Bielańska 1 The main talking point here is a design that utilizes shopping trollies and street signs to serve as chairs and tables, and a pile of second-hand books to form the bar – there’s even a sofa constructed from a bathtub! Themes of recycling are taken to the limit in Resort, yet for all that it never looks junky or cheap. Concerts and comedy nights keep business ticking on quieter days.

Odette Tearoom (C4) ul. Twarda 4, odette.pl If you thought those

Secret Life ul. Słowackiego 15/19 You might already

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be familiar with Secret Life of Things, a fab design store on the other end of town. Now the same minds have expanded their offer to include this café, a delightful spot that opened in summer. The deckchairs outside may have gone but the hype lingers on: an eclectic design marries a Scandinavian look to an eccentric spirit, while unpasteurized beers, organic teas and a locally sourced menu do the rest.

Stół ul. Nowolipki 17C Poor Muranów – while the rest of Warsaw joined the foodie revolution, Muranów was left looking at everyone else having fun. There is hope, and much of it is based around Nowolipki. Opening just days after Falafel Bejrut, Stół have created a buzz of their own thanks to a small menu of pancakes (both sweet and savory), sandwiches and homemade cakes. A place of genuine homely goodness, locals are already proclaiming it as the kind of place the area has lacked.

Stor (E3) ul. Tamka 33 Small but perfectly formed, Stor has all the clack and clatter of a busy local café. Regional beers, Chemex and Aeropress coffee and gluten-free snacks and sandwiches provide plenty of reason to pop in and idle about.

Tarabuk (E3) ul. Browarna 4, tarabuk.pl “I come here to escape Warsaw,” confides one Insider.

And yeah, there’s a quality to Tarabuk that allows one to do just that. Heaving with books and raggedy furniture, it’s a place in which to order an eco-tea, maybe a slice of cake, open Chapter 12 and then let hours slip away.

WakeCup Café (C1) ul. Franciszkańska 14, wakecupcafe.pl A superb discovery landed in the no-man’s land that straddles New Town and Muranów.

WakeCup don’t believe in taking coffee shortcuts (recommended: raspberry frappe), and have a fiendish obsession with beans from Brazil. Also notable and noteworthy for their fruity cocktails, pastries and energetic café buzz.

Wars i Sawa (E3) ul. Dobra 14/16 Creaking floorboards, unfinished plastering and piles of books set the tone to this ‘culture café’. It’s exactly what you’d expect of Powiśle, and the sort

listings / cafés & wine bars of stop best enjoyed on your own with a pot of tea, a dog-eared novel and your tightest skinny jeans.

juice bars Frankie’s (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, frankies.pl Find Frankie’s hiding in the corner of the former Communist party HQ. Part of a wider chain spread out across Poland, this ‘lifestyle café’ promotes healthy living with its specialized line in salads and fruity smoothies. Perhaps it feels a little mass market and commercial, but the appeal lies in solid and consistent quality, not to mention prices that are kept distinctly lower than the more ‘boutique’ juice bars of Saska and Powiśle.

Think Love Juices (H4) ul. Francuska 14, thinklove.pl Nutrition nut and supermodel Anna Jagodzińska reveals the secrets of her diet in this white-clad, summery-looking Saska café. As the name indicates, juice plays a massive part in that, with the rotating choice presenting a range of drinks that run from watermelon water all the way up to complex concoctions that ignore any shortcuts. The daily changing lunch deals are superb, but leave you in no doubt just why models are so skinny.

wine bars Ale Wino! (E5) ul. Mokotowska 48, alewino.pl At first you think you’re walking into a car park. And then, it hits you – a beautiful inner-city sanctum with wooden decking, a slanted sail shielding the sun, and bespoke, funky chairs from the esteemed Studio Rygalik. You want to dwell here for a bit longer than planned: and there’s no harm in doing so. One of the Insider’s favorite wine bars, Ale Wino’s food is also top-notch

Bristol Wine Bar (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmiescie 42/44 Effortlessly evoking a real sense of history, the design is a triumph with lots of polished brass and nickel, rich wood finishes and marble floors. You feel like you’ve stepped into a film. And the wine choice is prodigious: offering a complete cruise through the wines of the Old Continent and the New World, the collection is precisely presented from behind glass cases that line the walls.

Charlotte (D6) ul. Aleja Wyzwolenia 18 (enter from pl.

Zbawiciela), bistrocharlotte.com It matters not if you’re easily traumatized by the catwalk parade that is Charlotte. Open from seven on weekdays, it’s the place for a morning croissant. And if you’re armed with the latest Apple technology, all the better – join the other posers at the communal table. Located on Warsaw’s most happening roundabout, there’s no better place to indulge a hangover with a spot of eavesdropping than inside this boulangerie/wine bar.

Dekant Wine Bar (E3) ul. Zajęcza 15, dekant.com.pl Set inside an attractive open space, the opening of Dekant is a further indication of Powiśle’s shift from hipster epicenter to upscale playground (Robert Lewandowski has been spotted here!). The list comprises over 400 wines from the most prestigious producers in the world, right the way down to tiny, little vineyards you’ve probably never heard of. If the sun is out, aim for a place on their back terrace.

Dyletanci (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44, dyletanci.pl Often filled to capacity with crisp, modern citizens that radiate confidence, join them on green banquettes illuminated with Tom Dixon lamps. The wine list is fitting of the A-list, and aside from exceptional international choices, also includes interesting wines from the proprietor’s own label – a frankly superb Polish brand called Dom Bliskowice.

Enoteka (D1) Rynek Nowego Miasta 13/15, enotekapolska.pl It’s the wine bar New Town has been waiting for ever since… the old Enoteka closed.

The eagerly awaited return brings with it a new location – right on the corner of New Town Square and a wine list from curated by importer Maciej Bomboł.

Hoża (D5) ul. Hoża 25a, hoza.warszawa.pl You’ll probably know Hoża as the home of steak. But what is meat without wine? complementing the Argentine-inspired cooking is a wine list particularly dense with reds.

Mielżyński Wine Bar (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, mielzynski.pl Robert Mielżyński, a Canadian-born oenologist, awakened Warsaw’s love affair with the grape when he launched Mielżyński in 2004, and it continues to serve as the accepted benchmark to which all wine bars aspire.

Their cause is amply boosted by a fine selection of bites to accompany the superlative wine offer. Find it in a pared down warehouse that emanates casual city cool.

Mielżyński Wine Bar (G9) ul. Czerska 12, mielzynski.pl After three years in the pipeline Warsaw’s second outpost of Mielżyński is everything you’d expect: a concise menu that’s never too complex and an exciting wine choice that presents over 500 labels. This vibrant space promises much, not least on account of an inner terrace deck that you know is going to be the talk of this summer.

Wine Taste by Kamecki (C4) ul. Twarda 2/4, winetaste.pl Run by Piotr Kamecki, President of the Polish Association of Sommeliers, this beautiful glass-fronted unit functions both as a wine bar and store offering expert advice, cellar design and tastings.

WinKolekcja (E10) ul. Olkuska 7 The selection of New World wines is exceptional, though classicists are also catered for via an extensive choice of Spanish, French and Italian wines. Their highly recommended restaurant provides further reason to linger inside a design that has the routine look of a club class lounge.

Winosfera (B3) ul. Chłodna 31, winosfera.pl Once a pre-war cinema, now a stunning wine bar / store with one of the most impressive collections in Poland: an expense account comes in handy.

Equally notable is the ambitious fine dining menu of Jakub Adamczyk. Żurawina (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34, zurawina.eu Lacking in intimacy, this large white room gets criticized for its jarring artwork and staffing blips – in the world of wine it’s important the customer can connect to the staff: here, we felt like we were joining the SS. But both food and wine score highly, and they’ve earned a staunchly loyal following that includes high flying types and Paris Hilton wannabes that carry yappy dogs in their bag. www.warsawinsider.pl

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NO COMMENT (Al. 3 Maja 16/18A, Most Poniatowskiego) No Comment is a breath of fresh air compared to previous venues found in Most Poniatowskiego, with an upmarket bearing, ritzy cocktails and deep interiors that have the delicious, dark decadence of a David Lynch film. Adopting a Parisian style, the management are keen on promoting both the a la Hotel Costes restaurant section and the ‘art & clubbing’ nightlife angle.

bars & pubs 2Koła ul. Tunelowa 2B Sat, as it is, in the abandoned backspaces and brickyards behind Zachodnia station, 2Koła feels like Warsaw’s dirtiest little secret. Still stained and smelling of grease and oil, this former garage is piled high with dented sofas, warehouse palettes and motorcycling detritus. Yet the supremely friendly owners have turned this shadowy lair into a cult bar that’s specifically celebrated for rowdy jam sessions that cover everything from ragtime to rockabilly.

Bar Gemba (D5) ul. Wilcza 50/52 Despite occupying the bottom corner of an office development Gemba isn’t short of character: that is, at least, if you measure character by the number of thrift store armchairs and vintage extras. Furbished with lampshades, luggage and varying odds and ends, it’s the kind of dark, debauched bar that trended amongst artsy Poles in the early 00s. Replacing the oddly downcast Jedna Trzecia, Gemba slots in well amongst the other post-hipster bars in the area.

Bar Studio (C4) Pl. Defilad 1, barstudio.pl The ascetic, modern décor is intentional – both not to compete with the fine adornment of the original walls and to break through the building’s grandiose airs. It’s hard not to be overawed by the sheer gigantism of the Palace of Culture that looms above. It seamlessly slips from café during the day into its more culturally active persona in the evenings, with concerts, film screenings, plays and political discussions.

THE ROOTS (ul. Wierzbowa 11) Like the food and beer sector before it, Warsaw’s cocktail scene has been ripped and reinvented by the artisan movement. With a riveting cocktail list that demonstrates the full scope of the staff’s talent, The Roots is the latest in a string of bars to adapt to the times. Sip up inside a delicious interior furnished with glistening collectibles that tell the story behind the arcane craft of mixology.

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Bar Warszawa De Luxe (D2) Krakowskie Przedmieście 79 Leave your visit to the weekend when De Luxe unfurls into something resembling a Polish wedding disco. All the requisite characters appear in this spinning vortex of Boney M: vodka-fuelled Incredible Hulks, groping granddads, svelte students and everyone else in between. Somehow, the formula works without a hitch. There are Poles who’d be mortified by this representation of their country, but the truth is, it’s a rip-roaring time that’s enjoyed by most.

listings / nightlife Bazar (F1) ul. Jagiellońska 13 There’s Krusovice, Bernard and Staropramen on tap, and the Czech slant is lent added meat by a series of evenings held in cahoots with the Czech Cultural Centre – it’s during boozy disco nights the party spills into a shadowy cellar with light retro hints. On ground level its raw and industrial with asphalt colors and overhead pipes. You wouldn’t expect it, but the margaritas are smashing.

Beirut (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, beirut.com.pl As hip as ever, Beirut has walls dusted with cult album covers, documentary posters and witty graffiti inspired by Banksy. Busy in the day, and absolutely packed at night, order unconventional beers from androgynous staff standing behind a sandbag bar decorated with silver hand grenades and a model tank.

Berlin-Warszawa Express (D5) Most Poniatowskiego (corner of Kruczkowskiego and al. 3 Maja) Set up a flight of stairs, a concrete footbridge at the top links the two bars either side: Berlin and Warszawa. It’s a Matrix moment, the red pill or the blue? Berlin’s the better, with industrial cage lights, and salvaged DDR memorabilia.

Surveying the scene, it’s all wobbly tables, sticky surfaces and tight little alcoves fitted into impossible spaces. A great dive bar, the friendly nature of Berlin gets even friendlier after a few craft brews.

club: check it out for the bright, banging beats of the Bollywood sound.

Czeska Baszta (E4) Tower 22A, Most Poniatowskiego, czeskabaszta.pl Set in one of those towers that props up Most Poniatowskiego, its surroundings look grim – at night even scary.

Bathed in a yellowish murk, it’s actually warm and welcoming, and the reason for that soon becomes apparent: everyone is drunk!

There’s 80 Czech beers to pick from, and they do more than enough to distract from the rattle and rumble of overhead trams and a swamp monster toilet.

Elephant Belgian Pub (C1) ul. Freta 19 Signposted by a jolly, dancing elephant, this Belgian pub presents its cause the moment you enter – there’s twenty or so taps laid right out in front, and to the left a fridge that’s expected to top out to cover 200 beers. The design is basic – brickwork, beer kegs and varying ephemera of the brewing trade – but it doesn’t need that much more: it’s about the beer, after all.

Hard Rock Cafe (C5) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), hardrockcafe.pl Full Throttle cocktails, lively staff and a classic rock soundtrack: the energy of HRC is hard to find fault with. And on the rare occasion there is a lull in the night, use the opportunity to sniff around memorabilia that includes a black leather number once worn by Madonna.

Kraken Rum Bar (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, fb.com/KrakenRumBar Named after one of the ocean’s most feared mythical creatures (the scary squid from Pirates of the Caribbean), the wood-clad Kraken features a wall of cymbals, heavy furniture and some interesting photography.

While there’s some decent bottles of rum, there’s perhaps not enough to justify calling it a rum bar. The house beer rocks though.

Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, legendsbar.pl Legends is slowly achieving legendary status amongst the expats and Anglophiles. Their cause is helped by touches like a segregated smoking room, proper darts board, Sky Sports and a traditional menu that’s as authentically English as the Downing Street cat. Presiding over it all is Graham, a seasoned expat and Everton nut.

Lolek (A8) ul. Rokitnicka 20 (Pole Mokotowskie), lolekpub.pl A boisterous pub with a Bavarian, bacchanal spirit and a park-centered location. Strangers squish together on shaky benches while sausages grill over an open fire inside this classic rough-and-ready drinkery. Catch it at its best in summer when the outdoor seating is thronged.

Między Nami (D4) ul. Bracka 20, miedzynamicafe.com With 18 years of service under their belt you may

Bierhalle Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), ul. Nowy Świat 64, ul. Marszałkowska 55/73, bierhalle. pl Having tapped their first beer eight years back, this microbrewery has morphed into a national phenomenon with outposts across the country. All three Warsaw locations have a cut/paste Bavarian atmosphere, hefty wooden fittings and waitresses dressed like mountain frauleins. The drinks themselves are formulaic and nothing special.

Bollywood Lounge (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, bollywoodlounge.pl Now on Nowy Świat, the team have used the opportunity to upgrade their offer: gone is that low-rent feel of old, replaced in favor of a more classy look and a slicker crowd.

What has remained constant is the energy.

Ace cocktails (recommended: Jim Ban Chili), tottering talent and a range of sheesha pipes make it a weekend must, though the big news is the completion of their downstairs

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listings / nightlife think of Między Nami as being an antiquated has-been. Not so. Haunted by a mix of media types and local characters, this hip white piece of post-commie Warsaw has an enduring, almost timeless appeal.

No Comment Al. 3 Maja 16/18A, Most Poniatowskiego A lively and upmarket bar/club hybrid with

some very interesting nooks. For full review, see p. 80.

Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’ (D4) Enter from ul. Nowy Świat 26 Approximately twenty bars occupy a series of low-budget prefabricated cabins, presenting possibly the highest density of bars in the capital: in summer, it feels like one big street party.

Adding to the gentle sense of confusion comes the realization that so many bars look the same – accessed through clattery, barred doors, visitors walk into what can only be described as murk. Klaps, with its dildo beer taps and phallic walls, is probably the most well-known of the lot.

Stixx (A4) Pl. Europejski 4A, tel. 22 340 4040, stixx. pl It takes a moment to allow the sheer magnitude of Stixx sink in. Having adjusted to the wow factor of the interior – which can best be described as cosmopolitan-industrial – most retreat to the long, all weather deck which in itself is quite something: the aesthetics are such that a cocktail party on an oligarch’s yacht comes to mind. There aren’t many better places for a drink when the roof is rolled back and the stars twinkle down.

clubs Backstage Studio (A3) ul. Chłodna 35/37, backstagestudio.club Snuggled into a row of shabby cabins mostly rented to sex shops and gambling dens, Backstage feels secretive and clandestine. In spite of that, it’s earned a name among the younger generation as one of the best spaces in Warsaw for electro, minimal and techno nights (check their Facebook for upcoming events). Rather bigger than it looks, step downstairs to find chaos unfurling in a labyrinthine basement.

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Luztro (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, luztro.pl Feeling naughty?

Luztro enjoys a reputation for libertine behavior and illicit pharmaceuticals. Dark, grim and grotty, this after party stalwart gets going at about 4 a.m. on weekends, when troglodyte club creatures emerge zombie-like to dance way past sunrise. Jaw grinding, rib rattling electro has never felt better.

Nowa Jerozolima (D5) Al. Jerozolimskie 57 Once serving as a children’s hospital (and allegedly haunted

to high heavens by the screams of its former patients), this tenement has been repurposed as a multi-floored club that feels dank and squalid. The belly of the beast is a main room that rattles with domestic and international electro acts lapped up by a crowd that’s already lost its marbles by 11 p.m.

The View (C4) ul. Twarda 18, theview.pl Sat on top of the Spektrum Tower this bar/club has reinvented the whole concept of going out in Warsaw.

A truly world-class venture, the open-air deck on the 32nd floor offers striking views of the cityscape, first rate cocktails and an international rotation of DJs. No other club nails the champagne lifestyle with quite the same panache.

cocktails 6 Cocktails (E5) ul. Mokotowska 57 Taking its lead from the New York fad for covert bars, the 6 adventure begins in front of a heavy arched gate. Ring the bell, await the buzz of approval and then find yourself summoned into a rambling apartment that feels sultry and sensual.

Complete with a shadowy smoking lounge and a whirlpool tub in the bathroom, it’s the best secret in Warsaw. To enjoy the bespoke cocktails yourself, message them on Facebook and await your invite…

Bar & Books (D2) ul. Wąski Dunaj 20, barandbooks.pl Seen through a thin autumnal mist, this white townhouse radiates warmth: lights glimmer, piano music tinkles. Wood-paneled and lined with leather-bound tomes, there’s a sense of dignity that’s unique to Warsaw’s cocktail scene. There’s humor, as well, courtesy of portraits of chimps togged out like 18th century gentry. Similar to a members’ only Mayfair bar, find ‘classic with a twist’ cocktails mixed and muddled by the sort of charming bartenders you’d trust serving Bond. While bills can become weighty affairs, no one regrets the spend – plus, you can smoke here as well!

Fokim (D5) ul. Krucza 24/26 To like is an edgy interior that includes a neon that urges customers to ‘eat, drink, dance, riot’ and an Asian-inspired drinks list that features sake on-tap, shots

listings / nightlife with names like Karate Kid, and cocktails with proper verve: e.g., the Marry Me, a bonkers, bastardized version of the Bloody Mary that’s actually better than the real thing.

Lazy Dog (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, lazy-dog.pl For the cocktail bar, visit a small side room that’s attractively decorated with lots of copper fittings, hanging filament bulbs and high-quality bottles.

The cocktails number around ten house specialties with names like Long Island Nice Tea and Have You Been A Good Girl.

Między Ustami (D6) ul. Mokotowska 33/35 With the celebrated Hendrick’s gin so prominently pimped, it makes sense that the quirky design of Między Ustami is more in line with a Victorian apothecary than anything else. Peculiarities particular to this era are abundant (nonsensical wall paintings featuring fairies and fantastical creatures) and are matched against deep forest colors and copious wood and leather. It’s Lewis Carrol meets Phileas Fogg, with suitably creative cocktails to boot.

Panorama Sky Bar (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, panoramabar.pl The Marriott’s 40th floor Panorama has had a couple of incarnations: first, as a glitzy Dynasty throwback, and then, more recently, as something that could have passed for a business class airport lounge. Now it’s been reinvented once again, only this time successfully: find slick, vibrant interiors redolent of London matched up with modern cocktails and twinkling views.

grand job of rehabilitating a largely derided classic.

Weles (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 11, welesbar.pl A swing of the door takes visitors plunging down a blacked-out stairwell and into a basement that emerges from the darkness like a decadent Tsarist relic: glinting chandeliers glimmer over deep leather sofas, their subtle light casting a glow over an immaculate clientele. Befitting the venue, the artisanal cocktails are a work of elaborate craftsmanship, and incorporate everything from elite liquors to strips of bacon and flower petals.

At weekends this place rocks when DJ Trent gets onto the decks.

Woda Ognista (E5) ul. Wilcza 8, wodaognista.com Woda Ognista evokes the jazzy air of a Chicago, Prohibition era speakeasy with a seriously stylish interior that includes a colossal collection of vintage cocktail shakers that glint behind glass. The drinks themselves, rattled up by dapper gents in braces and flat caps, are split between house creations and reprised classics from a bygone era. Some are more successful than others, and it’s a credit to the staff that they’re willing to take comments on board and adapt their precious recipes to suit fussy tastes.

THE MOST REFRESHINGLY CIVILIZED PLACES TO MEETTM CIGARS & WHISKY

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craft beer

Syreni Śpiew (F5) ul. Szara 10A, syrenispiew.pl Set in a beautifully restored piece of PRL concrete, Syreni Śpiew tread a line that runs between cocktail bar and club. Whichever you use it for, this is a genuinely unique drinking experience with heavy elements of retro chic.

BrewDog Warszawa (D4) ul. Widok 8 First things first: BrewDog’s beers begin at zł. 17. On learning this there are some who scatter, others who scoff, but the let’s get the facts straight – you’re unlikely to find a cheaper pint of BrewDog in the world!

Hailed as one of the top artisan breweries on the planet, quality is the name of the game here: this is a place where the interiors rock and the beers go BOSH. No pub will do a better job this year.

Varso Vie (D6) Pl. Konstytcuji 2, varso-vie.pl A cool bar / restaurant decorated with art that’s both sensual and suggestive. Behind the bar, homemade syrups, seasonal ingredients and high caliber alcohol are all present, but so to the most important component: the staff who can handle them. Try the Polish Colada: involving Bols Natural Yogurt, Pawlina vodka, pineapple, lemon and sprinkling of chocolate, it’s a superb drink that does a

Chmielarnia (B5) ul. Twarda 42 (basement level), chmielarnia. waw.pl A subterranean multi-tap found in the depths of the fishing institute. Artisan beers rule the roost here (there’s 15 taps and stacks more beer in the fridge), a point underlined by a glass coffin of mainstream macro lager.

While the bar gets loud and rackety, sweaty and sticky, that’s balanced out by a rotating beer offer that’s moderately priced plus a friendly, earnest audience that’s all beer

Visit Our LOcatiOns in new YOrk and Prague

www.barandbooks.pl www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / nightlife geeks and know-it-alls.

Chmielarnia Marszałkowska (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16, chmielarnia.waw. pl With Warsaw’s tap bars all falling over each other to stock the latest tap beers, your options are frequently similar from bar to bar – which is when a good fridge becomes important. Not only can you actually see into Chmielarnia’s, you’ll find it housing the most exciting brews trending around the globe: from the edgy Bermondsey breweries to the Scandinavian giants. Broaden your horizons!

Cuda Na Kiju (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, cudanakiju.pl Where it all began. Summer catches Warsaw’s original tap bar at its best, with the courtyard of the former Communist Party HQ now home to an entirely different kind of party: on occasions find food trucks and film screenings, and all other times just a massive crowd getting sloshed on 15 types of tap beer.

Cześć (C3) ul. Grzybowska 2 (through the side passage), czesc.waw.pl It started as a café, but now Cześć is better known as being at the forefront of the new generation of ‘quali-tap’ bars – small little places with six or so beers on tap. The two owners, Piot and Kuba, take their beer seriously, so do expect plenty of new finds as well as traditional favorites from stalwarts like the Artezan and Pinta breweries. The laidback, neighborhood atmosphere is making it increasingly popular with a tight-knit circle of ex-pat drinkers.

Jabeerwocky (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 12, taproom.pl Even in an area bulging with bars, Jabeerwocky has become a point of pilgrimage for beer aficionados. If the creative line-up of guerrilla breweries wasn’t enough, then there’s the management’s readiness to roll their sleeves up and even brew their own beer. Add to that an atmosphere of general hubbub and you have our favorite tap bar of all time!

Kufle i Kapsle (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 25, kufleikapsle.pl All levels of drinkers are catered for in this raw-looking space, from those ready to pay nosebleed prices for beers with spaceships on the label, right the way down to novices taking their first baby steps in the world of craft booze. Interiors are balanced with the pre-war heritage of the place, and are thick with noise, clamor and the spell of spillage.

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Unisex toilets, meaning there’s usually one idiotka putting a spanner in the queue code.

Kufle i Kapsle Żoliborz ul Popiełuszki 19/21 While Nowogrodzka is the beating heart of the tap bar trend, not even the suburbs are safe from this flourishing movement. By expanding out to Żoliborz, Kufle i Kapsle have cornered a captive market. There’s just seven taps here, but they’re a magnificent seven – find a great representation of Polish craft draught, not to mention a satisfying selection of international bottles. The moderate size works it in its favor, lending it a neighborly atmosphere which sees first-timers quickly converted into returning regulars.

Piw Paw (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34 (enter from ul. Parkingowa), piwpaw.pl We don’t like: the sweaty toilet, strange smells nor the scrum at the bar. We do like: the 24hr opening hours, humongous fridge and 50+ taps. Seen in the light it’s a little depressing, so visit at night when Parkingowa takes on the look of an end-of-term street party.

Piw Paw na Foksal (E4) ul. Foksal 16, piwpaw.pl If the original Piw Paw was marketed as a ‘hyper tap’ then what’s their sister on Foksal? There’s 97 taps (!!) though one gets the sense its more about numbers than quality – we’ve seen Beck’s, for Pete’s sake. Getting service can be a nightmare, and while there’s a smoking room, it’s got the warmth and ambience of a night down the police station.

supremely friendly room with ten taps, a strong bottle line-up and an atmospheric side chamber.

Spiskowcy Rozkoszy (D5) ul. Żurawia 47/49, spiskowcy.pl The ground floor is an intimate space with lots of yet-to-be-famous beers and junky, antique furniture that reminds of the Boho hangouts in Kraków. But what was a packed, little bar is now a packed, big bar with the opening of the basement: find a labyrinth of rooms and psychedelic toilets with pulsating lights – you soon wonder who spiked your drink. And oh, the drinks. Expect IPA and APA beers served from the six taps.

gentleman’s clubs Playhouse (B3) Al. Solidarności 82A, playhouse.pl Not here gorilla gangsters on the door or pushy girls doing the rounds (“buy me drinky drinky”).

Instead, Playhouse models itself on the top class mega clubs such as Spearmint Rhino, and the result is a subterranean space removed from the sleaze and murk usually associated with the industry. But you want to know what the girls are like, yeah? Let the fact askmen.com voted it their favorite strip in the world speak for itself.

live music

Same Krafty (D1) ul. Nowomiejska 10, samekrafty.pl Set across two small, rugged rooms, Same Krafty gets populated by an organic combination of tourists, couples and beer enthusiasts.

There’s ten taps from which to choose, and a fridge with several interesting international beers. The Old Town doesn’t have much to shout about when it comes to nightlife, so Same Krafty is more than welcome.

Hydrozagadka ul. 11 Listopada 22, hydrozagadka.waw.pl Set out in the wildlands of Praga, consider Hydrozagadka as the heart of unforced cool.

Known for its alternative music scene, the low-ceiling and tight, crowded nature of it generate an electrifying atmosphere where the audience and band become one. Walking a fine line between industrial and straight out decrepit, the atmosphere is second to none: drinks flow, strangers meet and music smashes out: you can feel something special happening here.

Same Krafty Vis-à-vis (D1) ul. Nowomiejska 11/13 You wouldn’t have thought it a year back, but reasons keep emerging to drink in the Old Town. When it comes to pubs, Same Krafty top the list, but try getting served at peak drinking time.

So here’s some brilliant news: they’ve now opened another bar opposite. Pass under a dragon’s head before stepping into a

Pardon To Tu (C4) Pl. Grzybowski 12/16, pardontotu.pl Decorated in voluptuous brothel colors, the design involves mismatched seats, tilted lampshades and a relaxed arthouse look.

The live talent ranges from moody quartets to jazzy chanteuses, while a perfect marriage of late hours and great bottled beers helps along the enthusiastic crowd.

shopping accessories Bursztynek Rynek Starego Miasta 4/6, bursztynek.co The largest amber jewellery store in Warsaw, though in addition to that visitors can also purchase unique amber-related souvenirs as well as more classic gifts associated with Poland.

ECO CHIC DREAM NATION (ul. Kopernika 8/18, dreamnation.pl) Founded in 2011, Dream Nation is a label committed to sustainable fashion. Find colorful dresses and original prints spruced up by the designer’s wild, personal twist. All garments are made using organic cotton.

FAIRFASHIONSTORE.COM (FairFashionStore.com) This online store carries a wide selection of organic, feel good clothes and eco accessories. Customers can choose from fourteen international fashion labels devoted to green fashion.

TRANSPARENT SHOPPING COLLECTIVE (transparentshopping.com) An online shopping platform featuring two green fashion labels: Balagan and Elementy. Designers pay respect to local tailors with items sewn in neighborhood stores. Part of the money is donated to a good cause.

WEARESO.ORGANIC (ul. Boya- Żeleńskiego 2, wearso.com) If you love extravagant forms and monochromes this is the place for you. Designers use only natural materials. Aside from clothes and fashion accessories you’ll also find several items for home.

WISŁAKI (wislaki.com) Wisłaki is the first Polish eco label born out of crowdfunding. The online store features collections for men, women and children: from t-shirts and blouses to cute rompers for babies. Designs are simple but this simplicity underlies the philosophy of sustainable fashion, or so say the founders.

Chiara (Saska Kępa) Promenada Shopping Centre, ul. Ostrobramska 75C, chiara-online.pl You’d never expect it but this chic little shop stocks the best shoes and bags in the city – stock up on the latest collections from Michael Kors, Celine, Stuart Weitzman, Ralph Lauren and Mulberry. di Trevi Boutique Piękna 11A, ditrevi.pl Aimed at both him and her, di Trevi present the freshest Italian footwear releases from prestigious brands such as Ballin and Loriblu. Handbags are also available inside a chic interior that exudes luxury.

Hard Rock Cafe ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), hardrockcafe.pl No wardrobe is complete without the iconic Hard Rock t-shirt! Find the Warsaw-stamped version available here, along with other extras for the all American look.

HOS&me ul. Mokotowska 63, mokotowska63.com Luxury jewelry and the best in the biz. In stock: high end treasures from Nialaya, Lene Bjerre Design, Ti Sento, Christensen and Dryberg/Kern.

Minty Dot ul. Bracka 5, mintydot.pl Top quality Polish jewelry composed using gold, silver and natural stone. Contemporary in style, these are accessories that radiate class and craftsmanship while at the same time exuding a subtle sense of timeless romance.

Pingle Optyk ul. Hoża 40 A collection of hand-selected www.warsawinsider.pl

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fashion pages

FASHION COMMITTED TO VALUES

An increasing number of Polish fashion designers recognize that ethics in fashion matter. Luiza Jacob, the creator of Dream Nation, tells of her transformation from speedy style creator to sustainably minded couturier.

BY MAŁGOSIA KRAKOWSKA

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“T

he ‘fast fashion’ industry does not care about the ethics. When I worked for an international fashion brand, I witnessed the injustice that reigns in that sector. That’s why I decided to create a brand which takes into account ethics and responsibility: for humankind, for the environment, and for the whole world”.

Luiza, an energetic mother of two, is a designer who favors small-scale and local production. She reminds me about the Rana Plaza accident (ed note: the Bangladeshi factory collapse that cost the lives of 1,138 people). “Making clothes should occur in a responsible manner. One should be aware that the majority of sewing factories are located in developing countries, where working conditions are poor and the human rights of garment workers violated.”

Organic materials are the essence of sustainable fashion. Her designs are made only from organic cotton that grows in Turkey. That’s in contrast to garments made of conventional cotton: “The production of conventional cotton is cheaper but it affects the environment in several ways. For example, nearly 20,000 litres of water are needed to produce just 1 kg of cotton. Beyond that, farmers use pesticides which have severe health impacts on people working in the fields.”

Her tribute to ecology is also contained in prints of her designs. “The prints are original, and always send a message of eco-consciousness.” To demonstrate this point she shows me a green-orange dress speckled with little sea creatures, and... cans.

The shapes and forms of her designs are universal and simple.

“Young and old can wear them.

For example, my mum is a big fan of this Hawaiian print top [see p.

89]. Sustainable fashion is still as-

fashion pages (RIGHT) CAMEL DRESSFROM THE BAZAR COLLECTION (PHOTO

BY GRZEGORZ MIKRUT); (LEFT) TRIBUE COLLECTION (PHOTO BY ZUZA KRAJEWSKA); (BELOW) PINK OUTFIT FROM BLING COLLECTION (PHOTO BY DANIEL JAROSZEK)

sociated with grey dresses made of hemp. I want to show that you can be sustainable while keeping it colorful and chic”.

Luiza is an internationally acclaimed designer. Her collection, inspired by the tribes of Africa, has been received well not only in Poland, but also in Japan. But her desire to tame the galloping madness of fast fashion also penetrates other spheres of life. Her Autumn/ Winter collection will only debut in October, pretty late in the fashion world. “Slow fashion means that I won’t launch four collections per year: I don’t want to rush it. As a designer, I already feel accomplished. My children are now my biggest project.”

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fashion pages

RETRO REVOLUTION The upcycled jewelry creations from Magda Ziółkowska’s PORCJA brand breathe new life into old communist chic.

Magda, a graduate of the Warsaw Fine Arts Academy has dusted down communist-manufactured china and used it in the creation of a range of jewelry and accessories. Using fragments of plates, cups and other vessels, the designer combines various patterns, colors, and symbols – from folk motifs to geometrical designs and logos from milk bars and other brands associated with the communist era. All her products are handmade, unique one-offs.

The collection’s underlying vision is to raise more awareness regarding the idea of socially conscious and sustainable fashion. But not only… PORCJA revels in nostalgia and recaptures the buzz of youth... and something that can’t be found in the present.

WHERE TO BUY

Designer’s Studio ul. Ogrodowa 50

Muzeum Neonów ul. Mińska 25

Polscy Projektanci

ul. Burakowska 14 AVAILABLE ONLINE:

mustache.pl pakamera.pl pl.dawanda.com decobazaar.com

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SUMMER SOLSTICE As the summer season resets,

fashion pages

your wardrobe needs a brand new start. Refresh your fashion ecosystem with ethical brands infused with memories of summer and a tribute to mother earth. Addressed to all those in favor of a more holistic approach to fashion, spruce your outfit this season with these stylish and sustainable pieces.

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5 3

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1. Bag by Urchynn (upcycled leather. Design: Martyna Rokicińska), zł. 285 zł, fb.com/URCHYNN 2. Bomber jacket

by Dream Nation (organic cotton), zł. 297, dreamnation.pl; 3. PIMA Dress by We are so Organic (organic cotton), zł. 380, wearso-store.com 4. Hand-painted top by !MaLENmalowany (organic linen), price on request, ma-len.pl 5. Choker by Wishbone (ecological velvet), zł. 59, wishbone.pl

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listings / shopping eyewear that is serious in terms of quality control, but entirely whimsical when it comes to design. Yes, you’ve got your ubiquitous Ray Ban classics, but you’ve also got the electric blue version. You’ve got your Chanel and YSL classics, then there are the leather-trimmed frames from Paul Smith and many more funky models straight from Paris.

Schubert ul. Piwna 12/14, ul. Piwna 26, ul. Świętojańska 11, worldofamber.pl Rings, bracelets, necklaces and watches produced using the finest Baltic amber. Or for a unique gift, how about an amber chess set or an amber cigarette lighter?

fashion Ania Kuczyńska ul. Mokotowska 61 Ania Kuczyńska is becoming well known for her highly fashionable, minimalist clothing designs. The store also carries adorable baby clothes and various accessories.

Balthazar ul. Mokotowska 64 (Plac Trzech Krzyży), balthazar.pl An atelier, boutique and private tailor with several unique brands. Book your meeting by calling tel. 535 545 728. di Trevi Boutique ul. Piękna 11A, ditrevi.pl Aimed at both him and her, di Trevi present the freshest Italian footwear releases from prestige brands such as Ballin and Loriblu. Handbags are also available inside a chic interior that exudes luxury.

EM Cashmere Boutique ul. Szczygla 8, emcashmere.pl Available brands include Allude Cashmere, Annette Görtz, Studiorundholz and Sarah Pacini with 30-40% discounts on last year’s collections, and up to 70% on those of previous years.

A truly beautiful find with the clothes offer supplemented with shoes and accessories.

Joanna Klimas ul. Nowolipki 2, joannaklimas.com One of Poland’s top fashion designers runs this boutique/showroom. Choose from the latest collections or have a dress custom made for a particular occasion.

L’Aura ul. Mokotowska 26 Warsaw has its modest

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share of designer boutiques, but L’Aura is the only place in the city where you can find unique pieces from the likes of Hussein Chalayan, Dries Van Noten and Veronique Branquinho.

Moliera 2 Boutique ul. Moliera 2, moliera2.com Brands: Alexandre Birman, Alexandre Vauthier, Anya Hindmarch, Aquazzura, Balmain, Beach Bunny, Buscemi, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Francesco Russo, Gianvito Rossi, Herve Leger, Isabel Marant, Jimmy Choo, Kenzo, Kotur, Maison Michel, Moncler, One Teaspoon, Simonetta Ravizza, Tod’s, Tory Burch, Valentino, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon.

Pan Tu Nie Stal Koszykowa 35/40, pantuniestal.com Polish design at its peak: fashion is prominent, but there’s also interesting bitsy things such as aprons, jam jars, notebooks and mugs – all with a defiantly Polish twist. Eccentric, unusual and emphatically on-trend, it’s a must-visit.

Pinko Klif shopping Centre, ul. Okopowa 58/72, Nowy Świat 1, Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), pinko.it Straight from Italy, this exclusive shop offers an array of chic day wear and eye-catching casual and evening clothes.

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, plactrzechkrzyzy.com Brands: Beach Bunny, Buscemi, Canada Goose, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Dsquared 2, Christian Louboutin, Fay, Gianvito Rossi, Hogan, Kenzo, Kotur, Moncler, Mr& Mrs Italy, One Teaspoon, Ralph Lauren, Simonetta Ravizza, Tom Ford, Tory Burch, Valentino, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon.

Childrenswear: Burberry Children, Dsquared2 Kids, Kenzo Kids, Moncler Kids, Ralph Lauren Kids, Tod’s Kids.

Ptasia 6 ul. Ptasia 6, ptasia6.pl A unique ladies concept store showcasing the works of both emerging and established independent Polish fashion labels such as Eva Grygo, Confashion, Horror! Horror!, Kasia Miciak and Polanka.

Reykjavik District ul. Burakowska 15, tel. 501 399 222, open Tue-Fri 13:00-19:00; Sat-Sun 13:00-17:00, reykjavikdistrict.com Chic, well-cut menswear for all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal.

Safripsti ul. Oleandrów 3 Formerly a make-up artist in London and Paris, owner Magdalena returned to Poland to open a vintage boutique. Buying wholesale – meaning prices are kept in check – her fashion store presents finds like authentic cheerleader outfits and Hawaiian shirts for summer, not to mention a great selection of denim, parkers and so forth. And how about a classic Burberry mac for zł. 200?

Sen Nocy Letniej ul. Oleandrów 5A, sennocyletniej.pl A perfume concept store on upcoming Oleandrów in which the sacred meets the profane. Sophisticated yet wearable scents are displayed alongside luxurious cosmetics and aromatic candles. These are products that heal the soul while connecting the spirit, mind and body.

Van Thorn ul. Sienna 39, tel. 22 243 7377, vanthorn. pl Bespoke and made-to-measure suits as well as custom-made shirts and a range of accessories from ties and pocket squares down to shoes and cufflinks. The attention to detail, the quality and craftsmanship are staggering.

Vintage Store ul. Dobra 56/66 (Level 1, University of Warsaw library), vintagestore.pl Since its inception the store has grown in many ways – now, used brands like Burberry, Barbour, dresses from the ’70s, Hermes scarves, snakeskin handbags, or original Adidas sweaters from the ’60s and ’70s (the owner is an avid collector) are not an uncommon find in the shop.

Viola Śpiechowicz ul. Kolejowa 55 (Łomianki), vsstore.eu/ violaspiechowicz.com Viola Spiechowicz is an inspiring, unpretentious and highly creative fashion designer who has cultivated her own original and inimitable style since her 1992 debut. Her designs are the result of a long search for the perfect form, texture and color scheme, lending each project its own unique style: be it fashion, upholstery fabrics or accessory design.

listings / shopping Wake Up The Bear ul. Mokotowska 41, wakeupthebear.com Stylish ‘travel practical’ clothes as designed by the acclaimed Viola Spiechowicz. Featuring natural fabrics and multipurpose add-ons, this is the ultimate in comfort clothes.

Zaremba ul. Nowogrodzka 15, zaremba-krawiec.pl Originally inspired by the Savile Row style, Zaremba have been fitting out gentlemen of Warsaw since 1898. Under Maciej Zaremba, the brand has moved forward to take into account global trends while also respecting its past. Bespoke jackets start from zł. 5,900.

malls & department stores Arkadia Al. Jana Pawła II 82, tel. 22 323 6767, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00, arkadia.com.pl Atelier Mokotowska 63 ul. Mokotowska 63 Four levels of high end

fashion, with Woolrich, Mason’s, Lardini, Boglioli, Borelli and Seventy all represented.

Intimate, discreet and above all luxurious.

Galeria Mokotów ul. Wołoska 12, tel. 22 541 4141, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00, Klif House of Fashion ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4500, open Mon-Sat 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. klif.pl Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has everything from the excellent Alma supermarket to top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko.

Plac Unii ul. Puławska 2, tel. 22 204 0499, open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00, placunii.pl Warsaw’s latest mall counts Armani Jeans, Liu-Jo and Pandora amongst its upmarket tenants.

Mysia 3 ul. Mysia 3, tel. 603 767 574, open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00; Sun 12:00-18:00, mysia3.pl Hip department store that’s seen a few tenants come and go, yet has remained on the

cutting edge in spite of it all. Set in Poland’s former censorship office, the line-up includes Scandinavian fashion in Cos, shoes from My Paris, unconventional fashion from Nenukko.

Vitkac Wolf Bracka Vitkac, ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7313, open Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00; Sun 11:00-18:00, likusconceptstore.pl Vitkac was made for with a credit card blitz in mind. Poland’s first luxury department store gathers the world’s top designers under one roof, with brands including Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton, Stella McCartney and Rick Owens. And that’s the tip of the iceberg. Finish with dinner in the top floor Concept 13.

Wola Park (Wola) ul. Górczewska 124, tel. 22 533-4000, open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00, wolapark.com Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59, tel. 22 222 2200, open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00, zlotetarasy.pl Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Jatomi Health and Fitness Club.

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We are a men’s fashion design studio with our own fashion label. Our concept is based around the unique but well-recognized Scandinavian style. Our brand values simplicity in its design while placing emphasis on details. ul. Burakowska 15, tel. 501 339 222, reykjavikdistrict.com

Our boutique offers shoes for both men and women sourced from Italy by the owner. Featuring prestigious brands otherwise unavailable on the Polish market, our models are always in line with the latest trends with each pair unique and unrepeatable there is text. ul. Piękna 11A, tel. 22 617 2222, ditrevi.pl

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family activities Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. 22 596 41 00, open Tue-Fri 9:00-6:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-7:00, kopernik.org.pl A brilliant array of science-inspired attractions that prove as stimulating for parents as they are for the kids. Check out Galeria BZZZ, an area designated for children up to six. In order to keep numbers manageable, expect entry times to be staggered.

Fundacja Atelier ul. Foksal 11, 22 826 8813 or 22 826 9589, open Mon-Fri 10:00- 20:00, Sat 9:30-20:30, atelier.org.pl Situated in an atmospheric 19th century building this foundation organizes affordable/flexible workshops to develop and inspire art education and creative skills (painting/drawing/sculpture/art history) for children, young people and adults.

I consider myself lucky to have been born in the age of internet, cellphones and cheap airline flights. All these things bring people closer to family and friends and make life a lot simpler. For all that, with these modern times we do lose a slow and more thoughtful connection to the human experience. As my daughter grows up, and I wonder what technological advances her lifetime will bring, I make a point to slow her down and appreciate the things from times gone by so that she understands that instant is not always better. One such treasure is the Fotoplastikon on Jerozolimskie 51.

Created in 1905, it was a meeting point for people to get together and experience exotic images of the outside world. The owners of Fotoplastikon would lend out their stereoscopic camera to Poles travelling abroad to gather new images for their collection. Among just a handful in the world, this machine presents 24 slides inside a large wooden contraption.

Viewed in stereographic quality (two offset images that combine to give the perception of 3D depth), they’re a strange glimpse to a distant time.

Aware that the current images on rotation focused on Warsaw circa 1939-1945, I was concerned how my 4-year-old daughter would respond and sat closely by to ensure there wasn’t anything too scary for her. It was more than just fine, and I was delighted that afterwards she spoke in great detail about the contents of each photo: from places she recognized to the little boy who reminded her of a friend. We wound up staying for two revolutions of the Fotoplatikon, and when we left she expressed that “each photo was a surprise”. It definitely was for me. (KD)

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Guitar Classes Tel. 732 860 825, arekniezgoda@hotmail. com Private guitar lessons either at your place or in a private studio in Wilanów.

Classic, acoustic and electric guitar taught by Arek, a 35-year old teacher who covers most styles from classic to pop/rock. Previous work experience includes teaching in private music schools in California and at The British School of Warsaw. Both kids and adults are welcome.

Hangar 646 ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 646, hangar646.pl Children with excessive energy levels should head to Hangar 646. Located in a former airport hangar, the 2,700 sq/m of trampoline space includes a swimming pool of sponges.

Children from three years old are welcome

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

EXPLORING THE PAST: Fotoplastikon

Gym Generation ul. Wybrzeże Gdyńskie 4 (Centrum Olimpijskie, floor 4), tel. 502 092 695, gymgeneration.pl A professionally developed curriculum that offers your child a range of experiences, providing new and exciting activities each time and engaging them in physical challenges, a variety of games and team puzzles. There’s a maximum of 15 kids to a class, with one instructor for every five children.

listings / family to let off steam, with instructors available to teach acrobatics and suchlike; or you can just bounce off walls!

The Little Gym ul. Bruzdowa 56 & ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 45, tel. 22 842 0728, thelittlegym.eu Expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-to-child ratio, original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. Not only a great place for children, but tailored to a comfortable and relaxing stay for parents as well.

Mums & Tots mumsandtots.pl A volunteer group for mums (and dads) of all nationalities – coffee mornings, play groups, art and music classes and nights out for parents; the list is endless.

For more details, as well as their newsletter

and schedule check their web.

Zachęta Gallery Pl. Małachowskiego 3, tel. 22 556 9600, open Tue-Sun 12:00-20:00, zacheta.art.pl Recently undergone extensive modernization but still awaiting a café, this gallery and bookshop offer a perfect introduction to modern art. Also available are weekend workshops for children and original cultural birthday parties guided by experienced animators in a contemporary environment.

education preschools

American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel.

22 702 85 00, aswarsaw.org American School of Warsaw provides a rich, meaningful and balanced educa-

tional experience through age-appropriate activities to students aged 3 to 5. For further information and/or to visit our school, contact:admissions@aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00.

The British Primary School of Wilanów ul. Hlonda 12, bsww.pl, tel. 781 988 000 Following the National Curriculum of England and Wales, this is the first School in Poland subject to the inspection of the UK Independent School Inspectorate. Pupils receive British and, upon request, Polish reports/diplomas. The school follows a closed admissions policy and limits enrollment of one nationality to below 50% of each class starting from Year 1.

The British School Early Years Centre ul. Dąbrowskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646 7777, british@thebritishschool.

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listings / family pl, thebritishschool.pl The Early Years Foundation Stage is where a lifetime of learning begins. The British School, Warsaw provides EYFS classes from Pre-nursery (age 30 months) to Reception (5 years old).

Children develop quickly and their Early Years practitioners aim to do all they can to help your child have the best possible start in life and become a lifelong learner.

The Canadian School of Warsaw Preschool ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, preschool@canadianschool.pl The Canadian School of Warsaw is the only authorized school in Warsaw teaching IB PYP in English. The preschool offers a bilingual environment for 3-6 year olds enriched with foreign languages and extra activities. Serving the Warsaw community since 2000 all children are welcome, though available space is limited. For further info, tours and school visits call or email.

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School

have 3 green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy.

Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. Call to make an appointment to tour any of the 3 schools.

open 8:00-16.00, theenglishplayhouse.com The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old.

For more info or to arrange a tour of the pre-school or nursery call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email: jnowak@ theenglishplayhouse.com

International Trilingual School of Warsaw ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/ saint-exupery.pl Established in 1994, and formerly known as Ecole Antoine de Saint Exupery, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fill-immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French.

Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China.

Maple Tree Montessori ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/ Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, mapletreemontessori.pl Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). Find them located in the Wilanów district of Warsaw, in a house safely nestled into the end of a quiet street.

The English Playhouse ul. Pływiańska 14a & ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 22 843 9370, office

Montessori Academy for International Children ul. Królewicza Jakuba 36 (Wilanów), open Mon-Fri 8:00-16:15, ul. Sadowa 4 (Konstancin), Open 8:00-16:45, tel. 502 315 022, montessoriacademy.eu

(multiple locations)

Warsaw Montessori School ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, warsawmontessori.edu. pl Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini

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listings / family An English-speaking pre-school (16 months to 6 years of age) with two locations. The school’s policy is to comply with Montessori standards, using the Montessori Method in English. The school’s philosophy is based on the joy of learning, which comes from discovering and furthering the individual development of each child.

schools American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, aswarsaw.org ASW is a premier collegepreparatory international school that offers a PK-12 curriculum, including the IB Diploma Program in Grades 11 and 12. Students are inspired and challenged every day by experienced and dedicated teachers, who provide enriching learning opportunities in a world class facility. For further information and/ or to visit our school contact: admissions@ aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00.

The British Primary School of Wilanów ul. Hlonda 12, bsww.pl, tel. 781 988 000 Following the National Curriculum of England and Wales, this is the first School in Poland subject to the inspection of the UK Independent School Inspectorate. Pupils receive British and, upon request, Polish

reports/diplomas. The school follows a closed admissions policy and limits enrollment of one nationality to below 50% of each class starting from Year 1.

The British School ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, open 8:00-16:00, british@thebritishschool.pl, thebritishschool.pl Premium international school established in 1992 by Nord Anglia Education. The curriculum is designed to provide the highest academic quality of education. They follow the English National Curriculum, adapted to the needs of their international student community: from Primary through to the Secondary Key Stages to the IGCSE examinations and a well-established International Baccalaureate (IB) Diploma Programme.

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School

5A they promise an extraordinary opportunity for study, work and for daily living. Guided by trained specialists, students will be responsible for managing their household, operating small businesses, caring for local flora and fauna as well as domesticated animals, taking charge of the younger children and much more. “Adolescence Program” activities, integrated with academic studies, help students discover their inner strength to meet life’s real challenges.

The English Primary ul. Rzodkiweki 18, tel. 784 037 808, jnowak@tep. edu.pl An English primary school designed to prepare children for their next steps in education in a friendly, caring and nurturing environment. We take children from the international community through the key learning stages so that they achieve to the best of their best ability through a fun learning experience.

(multiple locations)

Warsaw Montessori School ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, warsawmontessori.edu.pl Casa dei Bambini Warsaw Montessori School are set to open their Erdkinder Montessori Middle School as of September 2016. Located at Tatrzańska

warsaw montessori school

The Canadian School of Warsaw Elementary School ul. Bełska 7, tel.

692 411 573, admission@ canadian-school.pl, canadian-school.pl The Canadian School of Warsaw is the only authorized school in Warsaw teaching IB PYP in English. The Primary School offers bilingual education for 6-11 year olds. Highly qualified,

Casa dei Bambini Warsaw Montessori School accepting applications

for all our locations and programs: Toddler: age 1.5-2.5, Casa: age 2.5-6 Contact Ela: tel. 692 099 134 office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl Elementary: age 6-9, 9-12 Contact Sylvia: tel. 606 276 112 sylvia@warsawmontessori.edu.pl

www.warsawmontessori.edu.pl

Warszawa: Szwoleżerów 4, Badowska 19, Tatrzańska 5a, Izabelin-Hornówek: Szkolna 16

Opening in September 2016 "Erdkinder" Middle School: age 12-15 Contact Małgosia: tel. 604 137 826 malgosia@warsawmontessori.edu.pl

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listings / family international staff, challenging materials and a friendly atmosphere provide an optimal setting for the highest standard of education.

Extra-curricular activities include visual arts, designing classes, ceramics/pottery, art studio, music lessons (piano, guitar, choir), sports (capoeira, karate, judo, soccer, swimming, gymnastics), languages (English, Polish, French, Spanish, Italian, German) and more.

The Canadian School of Warsaw Middle School ul. Olimpijska 11, tel. 885 420 044 / 885 620 066, secretary.olimpijska@ canadian-school.pl, canadian-school.pl Provides a continuation of PREIB education for 11-15 year olds. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create a perfect learning and creative thinking environment. For further info, tours and school visits call or email. Also home to the Non-Public Psycho-Pedagogical Counseling Centre ‘Olimpia’ (tel. 885 620 066) which examines the level of mental, emotional, auditory and visual-motor functions’ development, and conducts individual and group pedagogical therapy, as well as individual psychotherapy..

International Trilingual School of Warsaw ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa

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14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/ saint-exupery.pl Established in 1994, and formerly known as Ecole Antoine de Saint Exupery, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fill-immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French.

Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China.

shops Bimbus ul. Wilcza 69, tel. 22 628 5140, open 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-14:00. bimbus. com.pl Accessories, clothes, furniture and toys for parents who pamper their child with nothing but the best. Brands include Tartine et Chocolat, Quax, Woodwork and Theophile & Patachou.

Kopytko Mamuta ul. Boya-Żeleńskiego 2, kopytkomamuta. pl The creation of Kopytko Mamuta plugs a gap in the market, with beautifully cobbled shoes that are, in the words of the owner Agnieszka, ‘the essence of Parisian chic’.

Specializing in trendy kicks from the likes of Mercredi Apres Midi, it’s the ultimate spoiler for your budding style maven and her little Prince Charming.

Muppetshop ul. Kazimierzowska 43, tel. 532 689 212, muppetshop.pl An innovative concept store that offers a wide range of brands and products targeted at young people – babies, juniors, teenagers. The portfolio includes full-service for expecting parents as well as complete interior projects (from 0 to the first-owned apartment). On top of that expect a wealth of other design products (kitchen accessories, decorations, toys, bags, books etc.) from carefully selected brands such as Quax, Lodger, Chispum, Shnuggle, Collegien, Jielde, Gubi and many more besides. It all serves to make it the No. 1 spot for your youngsters shopping.

Pieluszkarnia ul. Topiel 12, ul. Mandalińskiego 25, tel.

22 713 8275, open Mon-Fri 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-15:00. pieluszkarnia.pl This small chain specializes in eco-friendly toys and clothing designed and produced in Poland. Products include the Lalanka dolly clothing collection, luxuriously soft reversible winter balaclavas and Martello blankets personalized for births etc.

Smyk Multiple stores, tel. 22 462 7250, smyk. pl Smyk is Poland’s answer to Mothercare; from bottle sterilizing kits to pencil cases, early learning toys to Disney classics and a wide range of seasonal clothing, this store will take you from childbirth to high school!

health & beauty gyms

Artis Wellness Club ul. Klimczaka 1 (Royal Wilanów), artisclub. pl And so here we have a contender for Warsaw’s best gym. Found in Royal Wilanów, this state-of-the-art gym boasts the latest technological advances in personal fitness, as well as a massive program of courses that range from group cycling and yoga to Zumba and body combat. Personal training and deluxe spa facilities also available.

Fitness Centre at the Radisson SAS Centrum Hotel ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888 Smallish but well-regarded gym with swimming pool, sauna, gym, and group classes inside one of Warsaw’s top five stars.

RIDING HIGH If you’re anything like me, and I sincerely hope you’re not, then the big problem with keeping fit is motivation. After the initial surge of enthusiasm fades you’re left with the grinding drudge that reality entails. Giving up is easy. And I’ll be honest, after twenty minutes at Ride Warsaw I nearly gave up as well. Frankly, I’m a little out of shape, so after a short period on the bike I was already feeling nuclear explosions all over my body. But while throwing in the towel is possible, you’re just not going to do so in front of everyone else.

The concept here is kept simple, beautifully so. It’s not a gym as such, rather a room filled with exercise bikes. Around twice a day this small studio opens up to the public with group cycling classes overseen by a team of English-speaking instructors. This is not a leisurely Sunday pedal, but a high energy workout with a banging soundtrack and constant interaction with the trainer in charge. Rather than lose faith and walk out I push harder, working past what I thought was my limit. Exhausting stuff yet ultimately rewarding.

Ride doesn’t just feel unique, it is. It’s not a place that locks people into long-term contracts, instead you ‘pay as you go’: choose a class online and pay zł. 60. Simple. But the user friendly mantra extends beyond just the booking process. Bikes come equipped with bottles of water, progress monitors and towels, while changing rooms have the screaming feature of digital locks: no padlock monkey business! Considered and convenient, look on Ride as the new face of fitness.

Ride Warsaw ul. Karolkowa 30, ridewarsaw.com

Fitness Centre at the Sheraton Hotel ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6701, www.sheraton. com/warsaw The Sheraton spa features sauna, steam room and massage, while the gym comes with LCD-fitted running and cycling machines, and a dedicated cardio section. Personal training available, as are group classes covering pilates, yoga, aerobics and even ski conditioning.

Holmes Place Energy Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (C.H. Arkadia), ul.

Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), www. holmesplace.pl Making top-flight gym facilities available to the masses, the Holmes Place Energy brand offers high standard equipment, personal training and group classes. Six month membership available for approx. zł.

200 per month, though prices are subject to change. For latest details enquire direct.

Holmes Place Premium ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel), tel.

22 851 0563, ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), tel. 22 313 1222, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), tel. 519 436 841, www.holmesplace.pl Those who use it claim the Hilton branch is the best gym in Poland.

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listings / health & beauty equipment. Also on-site, a varied timetable of classes, excellent personal trainers and a Green Coffee relaxation area. There’s two more ‘premium’ gyms to choose from, including the one in the Marriott immortalized after Obama’s recent work out there.

Little Gym ul. Bruzdowa 56, tel. 22 842 0728, www.thelittlegym.pl Targeted at children, expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-to-child ratio, original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. Englishspeaking, as well.

McFit ul. Świętokrzyska 3 (corner of Nowy Świat), tel. 22 313 1400, mcfit.com The budget European chain signals its arrival to Poland with a 2,000 sq/m studio that utilizes the latest technology as well as ‘cyber training’ programs. Open 24/7, with membership from zł. 89 per month.

Ride Warsaw ul. Karolkowa 30, ridewarsaw.com Intense indoor cycling classes in an intimate, highenergy atmosphere. For full review, see p. TK. RiverView Wellness Centre ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental), tel. 22 328 86 40, www.riverview.com.pl Top-class facilities and equipment, private instructors and small classes. The view from the highest pool in Europe offers a glorious panorama of the city. Annual prices from zł. 4,200 (access from Mon-Fri 6 a.m. to 5 p.m.), zł. 5,760 (all times), and zł. 8,350 for Diamond Membership (includes two personal training sessions per month, a complimentary weekend at the InterContinental, restaurant discounts, etc.).

spas & salons Barberian Academy & Barber Shop ul. Emilii Plater 25 & ul. Koszykowa 9 Away from the black clouds of metrosexuality, Barberian is where men gather to celebrate being men. Lauded as the local champion of male grooming, this stand out has a rebel chic layout and barbers who are experts in their field.

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Dotyk SPA ul. Biały Kamień 3, tel. 22 898 7272, open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Sat 9:00-18:00, www.dotykspa.pl Probably the only place in Warsaw where you’ll get a facial yoga session. Going futher east, treat yourself to Japanese, Polynesian or Indian massage.

Fiuu Fiuu Day Spa ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 629 2414.

A wonderful quick fix salon that makes use of the latest Ericson products and other top brands. Regarded as one of the top ladies day spas in the country.

Hair a Porter ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent, level -1), tel. 22 558 1555, open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat 9:00-17:00, www.hair-a-porter.pl A staunch favorite among the ex-pat crowd, Hair a Porter offer the ultimate hair experience utilizing talented staff and top-quality products.

Haircology ul. Rozbrat 44A, tel. 669 780 669, open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-last guest, www.haircology.pl An upmarket ecologically minded hairdresser that eschews such things as synthetic fragrances, silicon and preservatives.

Komiks ul. Radna 12, tel. 881 436 056, komiks.waw. pl You know those weird haircuts that people like David Bowie and Lady Gaga have?

Well, here’s the place to make that ultimate fashion statement and get one yourself.

Henna art, manicure / pedicure also offered.

La Perla multiple locations inc. Łowicka 21B/1, Wilcza 22A, Hilton Hotel, klinikalaperla.pl Here, the staff is adept and certified at a range of innovative treatments: from the non-invasive Bella Contour treatment to the Body Tite and Body Jet treatments that use the latest surgical procedures to slim and tighten. For summer the right spa/salon/clinic is key. La Perla’s all three in one!

ouch!

La NEW Spas & Salons

DEPILACJA WOSKIEM

Ouch! ul. Belwederska 32, 22 240 87 67; ul.

Bonifraterska 8, tel. 22 298 11 12, ouch.pl Experts in waxing, Ouch! Aim their offer at ‘busy women looking for express treatments

with lasting effects who, at the same time, appreciate a sense of intimacy’. High quality waxes, including fast and accurate epilation treatments whose effects last up to four weeks. Wax treatments for the whole body.

PARDON MY FRENCH

manicure pedicure

Pardon My French ul. Belwederska 32, tel. 22 240 62 90; Bonifraterska 8, tel. 22 298 11 10; ul. Mokotowska 56, tel. 22 298 10 10, pardonmyfrench.pl Manicure and pedicure treatments with high quality lacquers and an awareness of global trends: if you need an endorsement, Paul McCartney visited when he was in Poland! Free wifi and coffee, as well as the possibility of hosting baby showers and bachelorette parties. Open from 9-8 during the week and 9-5 on Sat (with the Mokotowska branch also welcoming visitors on Sunday from 10-4).

The Pedicure Place ul. Pokorna 2, lok. u11, tel. 22 241 3000 or 505 828 688, open Mon-Fri 9:00-21:00; Sat 9:00-18:00, www.pedicure-place.pl A luxury pedi/manicure clinic with room for 10. All the latest OPI varnishes and over 200 colors guarantee you’ll find the latest in styling and nail care.

Rostowski Barber Shop ul. Koszykowa 58, rostowskibarbershop.pl A true celebration of the vintage barber shop, Rostowski have the ambiance nailed to a tee thanks to a crew that’s ready for banter and an interior replete with jack-up chairs, glinting zinc and restored floor tiles.

Retro Day Spa Al. Ujazdowskie 18/11, no. 311, tel. 22 622 03 69, www.retrodayspa.pl Royally indulgent interiors hark back to a different century, though the treatments are all hi-tech and include packages for pregnant women among the variety of beauty offers.

Sante ul. Jagiellońska 55A, studiosante.pl The dry and wet steam room left the Insider impressed, but not as much as the ‘mood rooms’ – imagine a lunar landscape chamber with a salt-covered floor. The other, meanwhile, comes clad in minerals with recliners hewn from heated tiles. As you stare at the mantra above the mind lets go and you feel almost as if your body is moving. Amazing.

COCONUT COFFEE PEELING

by Body Boom, zł. 65, from bodyboom.pl

SCENTED CANDLE

by ALBA 1913, zł. 95, from Sen Nocy Letniej, ul Oleandrów 5

GREEN IS THE ‘NEW BLACK’

Organic products belong with the latest beauty trends.

Whether they are plant- or earth-derived compositions, natural cosmetics are the key to feeling good. And the Warsaw Insider knows that balance between mind and body begins with cosmetics infused with the spirit of the earth.

BODY OIL

by Zielone Laboratorium, zł.

70, zielonelaboratorium.pl

ROSE MINERAL BLUSH

by Annabelle Minerals, zł. 39.90, from eshopannabelle.com

REGENERATING SERUM

by Enklare zł. 59.90, from enklare.pl

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THE SPACE BROUGHT TO YOU BY QUANTUM

FOR FITNESS As Warsaw’s flirtation with fitness turns into a full-on fixation, a new venue in town has raised the bar to levels previously unheard of. Promising a premium, 24-carat experience, Quantum finds itself instantly installed as the cream-of-the-crop. Are you ready for the change?

100 Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2016

BROUGHT TO YOU BY QUANTUM

The Place For Healing Using first class, pioneering methods and technology, the Quantum Clinic surpasses the norms that Warsaw has become used to. For the full Hollywood treatment, restore and replenish the body at a luxury spa devised to enhance the body and mind. Wellness has never felt better‌

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BROUGHT TO YOU BY QUANTUM

A

s someone who lost their shape about three hundred years back, I derive as much pleasure from the gym as I do, say, doing my tax returns or being bitten by a viper. It’s not so much a fear as it is a complete, outright phobia. It’s not that I haven’t tried, it’s just that I’ve found Warsaw gyms go either of three ways: Rocky-style sweat dungeons packed with psychos training for their next forest battle with the lads from Lech Poznań, ‘exclusive’ places filled with preening girls more concerned about their makeup, or those depressing gyms for the masses whose single selling point is cost. Now though, there’s another option. Quantum.

To me, the name alone conjures images of Bond.

The truth, however, is a little more prosaic. “In physics a quantum,” says the owner, Paweł, “is the smallest possible particle of a physical entity.

When placed together correctly, several quanta create excellence.” Quantum, I learn, is more than just a fitness club – it’s a lifestyle choice built upon three pillars: a gym, wellness clinic and physio center. Each complement the other in a manner that’s natural, cohesive but above all unique. “We’re the only place of its kind in Poland,” says Paweł, “even in America it’s a concept you won’t really find apart from in special facilities for professional athletes.”

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I mention Paweł not because I’ve made a particular effort to track him down, rather vice versa. More than just its owner, he is Quantum’s all-seeing eye: an ever present driving force that glues the project together. Having made his bank advancing up the corporate ladder, he left the rat race for dust to follow his dream of opening a gym. “Fitness has always been a passion,” he smiles, “when I was a kid I’d be the only person jogging around the town I grew up in – people would come out and laugh at me like I was mad.” Whose laughing now?

To believe it is to see it. Snuck to the side of a glamorous slab of residential new build, Quantum takes the keep fit business to new levels. That’s apparent just by the changing rooms alone. I shan’t disparage my previous gym in public, but I’ll say this for it: despite costing a fair whack, the dressing quarters were every bit as chaotic and fragrant as the engine room of a U-boat. The difference at Quantum couldn’t be more pronounced. Just the spotless stone surfaces have a sense of quiet, understated luxury and the promise of perfection.

I’m here for an introductory training session, and as I emerge in my kit I’m introduced to Kasia, my trainer for the day. The first step involves assessing problem areas, determining targets and charting the client’s body composition through the use of electronic gizmos. It feels as covert as a church confessional, but

BROUGHT TO YOU BY QUANTUM

if Kasia is appalled by my lifestyle then she does a kind job of hiding it. This isn’t just a place in which to get sweaty, it’s a place that finds answers and sets goals that don’t inhibit the client. A qualified dietician, her advice is both pertinent and practicable, as are the exercises we embark on.

Despite early fears that I might become the first person to actually die in Quantum, I survive, thanks mainly to a session that both challenges and considers my limits. After, as I plop down in a wet heap, I experience an unlikely surge of positivity.

“Getting fit isn’t just about looking better,” says Kasia, “it’s a holistic thing: when people feel better they function better.” It’s an been an inspirational hour and I pant in agreement.

Having rebooted myself in the Finnish sauna, I check out the wellness clinic next. Open to nonmembers as well, this is the domain of Karolina, Paweł’s wife and a cosmetologist for the last twenty years. “If you want to look ten, fifteen years younger,” she says, “we can do that, and we can do that in a way that doesn’t look fake.” Like the gym, the attention to detail speaks of a venue that doesn’t do shortcuts. There is no ‘Made in China’ equipment, everything is state-of-the-art from the U.S. and Israel. “We can do the lot,” says Karolina, “from hair or tattoo removal to skin or scar treatments.” Also like the gym, it’s a place that plays

Getting fit isn’t just about looking better, when people feel better they function better the long game. “Of course we can design three or six-month treatments,” she says, “but this place isn’t about quick traffic, it’s about writing personalized programs that will actually work – people pay for results, and here they’ll get them.” Aesthetic gynecology, skin tightening, firming and body slimming are just some of the areas that are expertly covered. Me though, I just want a massage.

Left, quite literally, in the hands of Martyna, I’m ushered to a plush private room where I’m pummeled and pulled before floating into space. It’s an almost out-of-body experience that leaves me walking on air. After, I bump into Paul, the physio and an integral cog to the Quantum brand. “If we invested as much in our bodies as we do in our cars,” he says, “we’d be a lot better off.” It’s an analogy worth dwelling on, for today I’ve been stripped down like a faulty motor before being reassembled in a manner that’s correct. I feel new. Most of all though, I feel good. www.warsawinsider.pl

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BROUGHT TO YOU BY QUANTUM

“As an expat it’s nice to find so many different nationalities here pursuing a common goal” - SHAHID ‘SHIV’ SHIVJI

goes beyond just the machinery,” he says, “I like the fact that this is more of a ‘boutique gym’. It’s never crowded and you get more attention from the personnel – even if you’re not actually training with them, they’ll always come over ready to help or give you advice. Everything is designed for the customers’ comfort and, of course, as an expat it’s nice to find so many different nationalities here pursuing a common goal.”

SEBASTIAN SURY

THE CLIENTS SHAHID ‘SHIV’ SHIVJI

A native of Vancouver, Shiv is a short-term resident of Warsaw who expects to be moving again in the next couple of months. “I live close by and popped into Quantum to discuss their membership packages – Paweł jumped up straight away and took me on a tour. Soon enough I’m going to have to leave Warsaw, but he was able to accommodate me with a deal that matched my temporary needs: taken on its own, that’s made my life a whole lot easier.”

A pilot by profession, Shiv is aware more than most of the benefits of healthy living. “I think it’s something that the younger generation of pilots really pay attention to,” he says. “When you’re dealing with pressure changes, long hours of sitting and intense situations it’s good to have a healthy flight crew – more importantly, we take a medical once a year that we need to pass!”

Currently training to climb Mount Kilimanjaro, Quantum has exceeded all of Shiv’s expectations. “It

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“I love my job, but I’m very conscious of the need to balance out my professional life with other things.” A partner at a law firm, punishing hours are de rigeur for Sebastian Sury. “After a big transaction you’re physically and mentally exhausted, so I use Quantum as a place to refresh my body and mind.” Surely, though, there’s other gyms that can fulfill that demand? “This gym has the right atmosphere,” responds Sebastian, “after working with people all day I need a gym that’s calm and relaxed. Quantum has space – customers aren’t on top of each other – yet at the same time it feels social, somewhere you can integrate.”

Convenience also plays a role. “I live and work close by,” he says, “but Quantum has other basic advantages as well. You see these gyms in the big city malls, but to actually reach them means going up and down different floors, taking escalators, etc.

Here, as soon as you walk through the entrance you’re at the gym. Time is precious, there’s only 24-hours a day, so for me Quantum is a timesaver.”

And the equipment is none too shabby either. “In terms of quality it’s the best I’ve ever seen,” asserts Sebastian, “you can feel it. Frankly, it’s a standard that meets my own standards. And I love the coffee here – they’re even good in that respect!”

BROUGHT TO YOU BY QUANTUM

“It’s not a gym that leaves you feeling like an anonymous number on their membership list” - NAYELLI KATARZYNA GUERRERO

NAYELLI KATARZYNA GUERRERO

Half Mexican, half Polish, Katarzyna, a project manager, has lived in Vienna, Moscow and Madrid before returning to Warsaw at the start of the year. “The first thing I looked for,” she says, “was a gym that met the standards I was used to. I was after something that was new, that still smelled fresh, that had the latest machines and interesting classes.” There were other criteria as well: “most of all, I didn’t want a hotel gym – come on, this isn’t 80s Poland where all expat life revolves around a few top hotels. I didn’t want to be exercising next to traveling businessmen or rotations of tourists.”

Neither did her mum. “I love going to the gym with her, so I needed a place that suited her needs as well – that meant none of these intimidating gyms you see packed with men with big muscles. It had to be a place in which we both felt comfortable.”

Quantum answered that call. “I found it by accident when I was on my way to the shops,” says Katarzyna, “but immediately I felt a connection with it. It’s almost like a community: everyone knows each other and you look forward to seeing likeminded people. It’s more than a gym, it’s where I hangout, it’s where I meet friends.”

The staff have helped foster that sense of belonging: “everyone knows my name, they know how I like my coffee. It’s not a gym that leaves you feeling like an anonymous number on their membership list.”

This goes for the trainers, as well: “it’s as if they know what the client needs – they can read your body better than you do yourself. In fact, in a way the whole service aspect reminds me a bit of Mexico – there, the customer really counts; even in a five peso taxi you’re treated like a king. It’s the same attitude here.”

LEA KIMPELE

In her duties as a Global Customer Service Manager, Lea is no stranger to judging what constitutes strong people skills. “The service here is incredibly personalized,” she says, “and Paweł is very much part of that.” Having moved to Warsaw a year ago, Quantum has become an integral part of Lea’s lifestyle. “Honestly, it’s a second home for me,” she says. “to the point that the steam room feels like an extension to my apartment.” Visiting Quantum five to six times a week, the gym bug has left a lasting impression. “It’s my therapy,” she jokes, “a haven.” In terms of escapism, it’s easy to understand why it carries favor: “you never have to wait for machines, and there’s always a spot in the classes. There’s a mix of comfort and everyday luxury that makes it a great place to relax and hang out in, but at the same time, you can really work your ass off here.”

Quantum ul. Piękna 15, quantumpiekna.pl www.warsawinsider.pl

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PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

in the city

ON INSTAGRAM #warsawinsider

If the temperature has cooled, then at least Warsaw hasn’t. For your daily dose of hot city happenings, join us on Instagram and discover the quirky side of the Polish capital.

106 Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2016

listings / in the city VISITORS accomodation 5-Star Hotels

Bristol Hotel ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1000, bristol@luxurycollection. com, www.hotelbristolwarsaw.pl

H15 Boutique ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 553 8700, info@h15ab.com, www.h15ab.com Hilton Warsaw ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555 / 800 44 11 482, www.hilton.com InterContinental ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com Mamaison Le Régina Hotel Warsaw ul. Kościelna 12, tel. 22 531 6000, www. mamaison.com Marriott Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 6306, www.warsawmarriott.com Regent Warsaw Hotel ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, reservations@regent-warsaw.com, www.regent-warsaw.com The Rialto Boutique Hotel ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8700, www.rialto.pl Sheraton ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6100, www.sheraton.pl Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-warsaw

Sofitel Warsaw Victoria ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8011, www.sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com

Westin Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, www.westin.pl

4-Star Hotels

Airport Hotel Okęcie ul. 17-ego Stycznia 24, tel. 22 456 8000, www.airporthotel.com.pl Hampton by Hilton ul. Wspólna 72, tel. 22 317 2700, hamptoninn3.hilton.com Radisson Blu Sobieski pl. Zawiszy 1, tel. 22 579 1000, www.sobieski.com.pl Mecure Warszawa Centrum ul. Złota 48/54, tel. 22 697 3999, www.mercure.com Mercure Grand Warszawa ul. Krucza 28, tel. 22 583 2100, www.mercure.com Courtyard by Marriott Hotel (Airport) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 0100, www.warszawacourtyard.pl Novotel Warszawa Centrum ul. Marszałkowska 94/98, tel. 22 596 0000, www.novotel.com, www.accorhotels.com Polonia Palace Hotel Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. 22 318 2800, www.poloniapalace.com Warsaw Plaza Hotel ul. Łączyny 5, tel. 885 886 100, www. warsawplazahotel.pl

apartments

InterContinental ul. Emili Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www. warsaw.intercontinental.com Long and short stay apartments provided by the hotel of the same name. Perks included are the same as those received by hotel guests: i.e. access to the top floor pool, room service, maid service etc.

ul. Bracka 20, tel. 22 8285417 (from 10 a.m. to 11p.m.), www.between-us.eu Boutique B&B ul. Smolna 14/6, tel. 22 829 4800, www.bedandbreakfast.pl Chmielna Guesthouse ul. Chmielna 13, tel. 22 828 1282, www.chmielnabb.pl

car rental Avis tel. 22 572 6565, Fredrick Chopin Airport, tel. 22 650 4872, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 575 6583, Reservations: tel. 801 120 010, www.avis.pl Hertz Rent a Car Okęcie Airport, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel.

22 650 2896; mob. 691 411 130. ul.

Nowogrodzka 27 (D5), tel. 22 621 1360.

Sixt Rent a Car ul. Arabska 9, tel. 22 511 1550, 22 511 1555, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 2031, www.sixt.pl

useful numbers Foreign Assistance Tel. 608 599 999 / 22 278 7777 Information in English, German and Russian available from June 1st to September 30th from 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. seven days a week.

Tourist Information ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (airport), Rynek Starego Miasto 19/21/21A, Pl. Defilad 1 (PKiN), tel.

22 194 31, warsawtour.pl

RESIDENTS relocation companies

MaMaison Residence Diana ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 9100, www.mamaison.com/diana A beautiful city center location from the same team behind Le Regina. Short and long term stays.

Express Relocations ul. Szyszkowa 35/37, tel. 22 878 3539, www.expressrelocations.com

B&B

Euro Move International Movers ul. Kineskopowa 1, Piaseczno, tel. 22 716 5566, www.euromove.pl

Between Us Bed & Breakfast

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listings / in the city AGS Warsaw ul. Julianowska 37, Piaseczno, tel. 22 702 1072, www.agsmovers.com CorstJens Worldwide Movers Group ul. Nowa 23, Stara Iwiczna, tel. 22 737 7200, www.corstjens.com DuX Consulting Agency ul. Panieńska 9/28, tel. 22 670 4280 or 502 216 606 www.duxconsulting.com.pl Euro Move International Movers ul. Kineskopowa 1, Piaseczno, tel. 22 716 5566, www.euromove.pl

Move One Relocations ul. Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 8160, www.moveonerelo.com Also immigration assistance, fine art shipping, pet transport and consulting services.

Relo Planet ul. Batalinou Platerówek 3, tel. 22 658 1958, reloplanet.com International, domestic and office removals, corporate and individual relocations, fine art shipping, storage, insurance, as well as a full range of assistance services (immigration, etc.).

services Domestina domestina.pl New to Warsaw, Domestina offer four-hour maid solutions ranging from zł. 129-142. Offering full premium service, they’ll make your bed to match the standard of a five-star hotel, and clean every corner till your flat is spotless! Order and pay online via their English-language website.

storage Wiecej Miejsca Tel. 733 002 014, www.wiecejmiejsca.pl A new storage service that will even go so far as to pick up your items for you and transporting them to their guarded warehouse.

They’ll also the supply the storage bins which typically fit 90 books, 100 t-shirts, 25 jumpers. Larger items like bikes, suitcases can also be left with them.

Personalized Polish classes adapted to meet your needs. Also home/company visits and online courses. For a free 60-minute trial email: kontakt@cupofpolish.com

community Anglican Church in Warsaw ul. Krakowskie Przedmiescie 62, tel.

880 580 628, anglicanchurch.pl English language services follow the order of the services of the Anglican Communion and are conducted by Rev. David Brown. Services are held each Sunday at 10:30 and 16:00.

International Christian Fellowship ul. Puławska 326, icfwarsaw.org Interdenominational services in English (10:30am, Sunday). Facilities, programs and community activities for all ages: children, students and adults.

InterNations www.internations.org Drawing professionals from home and abroad the mission of InterNations is to bring together ‘global minds’. Now an established part of Warsaw’s social and corporate circuit, their monthly meetings have become Must Do events on schedules round town.

polish for foreigners

Cup of Polish cupofpolish.com, tel. 508 700 508

International Women’s Group of Warsaw iwgwarsaw.eu Unites expat women in Warsaw and offers cultural, educational and recreational activities. Meetings are held

Get 12 issues for the price of 6 (60 zł) WARSAWPASS & CHOPINPASS Valid for 24, 48 and 72-hour periods, the Warsaw Pass enables holders to hop on and off a bus ploughing the main tourist routes, as well as free entry (and the ability to ‘skip the line’) to numerous attractions including Polin, the PKiN viewing platform, Royal Castle, Copernicus Science Centre and many more besides. Discounts for tours and restaurants are also part of the package.

For full details, see: warsawpass.com

SUBSCRIBE AND SAVE! Email: insider@warsawinsider.pl

108 Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2016

Also, be sure to pick up the ChopinPASS, a package that includes admission to the Chopin Museum and to the birthplace of Fryderyk Chopin in Żelazowa Wola, as well as direct transportation between these two institutions. For details, see: ChopinPass.com

listings / in the city on the second and fourth Monday of the month.

local club meets every Wednesday at 19.00.

Guests are always welcome without any obligation apart from a short introduction.

Professionals in Warsaw meetup.com/Professionals-in-Warsaw New to town? There’s few better ways to give your social life a jump start than popping along to one of the informal drinks mixers conducted by Professionals in Warsaw.

Natives and foreigners of all backgrounds and professions are welcomed – all you have to do is buy your own drinks. Search for them on facebook.

museums Bursztynek Rynek Starego Miasta 4/6, bursztynek.co Part of this dedicated amber shop has been turned into a curious museum detailing the history of amber.

Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. 22 596 4100, kopernik.org.pl Copernicus allows visitors to experience an earthquake, blast recyclable objects into space and become a mystery cracking detective.

St. Patrick’s Foundation www.irishball.pl The Irish Ball, held on the Saturday closest to St. Patrick’s Day, is legendary in Warsaw as the biggest of the balls. It’s the main annual fund-raiser of the foundation, which distributes the funds raised to various charities over the course of the year.

CSW ul. Jazdów 2, csw.art.pl Situated in a baroque-style castle the center hosts artists from all over the world. The bookshop is of particular interest for artists and intellectuals.

Taste of the Classics www.fnok.pl A Taste of the Classics is a classical music, fine art and dinner entertainment, held regularly in prime locations. The events alternate between formal and semi-formal dress and are held in English. Attendance is by invitation and includes dinner and wine.

Dom Spotkań z Historią ul. Karowa 20, dsh.waw.pl The History Meeting House wins points for frequently excellent exhibitions that cover topics such as ‘rebuilding Warsaw’ and ‘Socialist Realist architecture.’ It won’t take longer than twenty minutes to peruse whatever exhibition is on, but it’s still a very worthwhile diversion and one of the city’s top secrets. Ongoing until April 6: The Great War in the East (1914-1918).

Toastmasters International www.toastmasters.org.pl Toastmasters is the international organization for improving public speaking and presentation skills. The

Usually associated with the Western Front, this photographic exhibition aims to redress the balance by covering WWI from an eastern angle.

Museum of Life Under Communism ul. Glucha, adventurewarsaw.com Run by the excellent Adventure Warsaw tour guide company, the Museum of Communist Life brings together aspects of communist life through dioramas that present typical living quarters of the time and a milk bar. Displays include a restored Saturator machine, a collection of commie hoovers. A must see!

Polin - Museum of the History of Polish Jews ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl Composed of eight galleries, each covers a different stage of local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day. Covering 4,000 sq/m, highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec synagogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical inter-war Jewish Warsaw street.

National Museum Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented.

The Neon Museum ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum. org This amazing project brings together the neon lights that once illuminated the city.

w W a r s a www.city-tour.com.pl

Yellow Double-Decker Bus

Invites you to experience a panoramic tour of tourist attractions of the capital of Poland, Warsaw, in a relaxing and comfortable way.

Traveling over the course of approximately 1,5 hour, a double-decker bus will take you past many beautiful and interesting places of Warsaw, such as its interesting districts, palaces and churches, monuments and museums, parks and historical cemeteries, as well as the Jewish historical sites.

A GPS 12 language audio-guide, will give explanations and accompany you to make your ride a more adventurous, exciting and an unforgettable one.

Excellent Hop on Hop off and one trip service operates every day all year round.

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Line approved by municipal authorities.

www.city-tour.com.pl

+48 500 033 414

www.warsawinsider.pl

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Wyśmienity smak żurku z grzybami i białą kiełbasą, pasztet z dziczyzny z konfiturą z cebuli i rodzynek, drożdżowe baby i mazurki...

Wielkanoc - niech twoje święta będą pełne smaku.

Chodk iewicz Biały Kamie a ń Żaryn a

Zapraszamy do składania zamówień świątecznych: CENTRUM: ul. Żurawia 47/49, Warszawa, tel. +48 (22) 621 82 68, godziny otwarcia: 7:00 - 22:00 ŻOLIBORZ: ul.Felińskiego 52, Warszawa, tel. +48 608 046 406, godziny otwarcia: 9:00 - 20:00 www.smakiwarszawy.pl

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In The Beginning…

Mermaids, marriage and legends? Forget them! This month the Insider searches out the real truth behind Warsaw’s origins…

BY STUART DOWELL

H

ave you ever asked yourself why Warsaw is called Warsaw?

If you’ve ever questioned anyone who hails from these parts, then you will surely have heard the fishy legend of Wars and Sawa. Wars, a young fisherman who lived in a hut on the banks of the Wisła, was out fishing one night when he caught a glimpse of a beautiful mermaid named Sawa who had long golden hair and the scaly tail of a fish. The saucy siren started singing and Wars fell head over heels in love. Night after night he would hide in the reeds and drool over the aquatic stunner.

One night, Sawa caught Wars spying on her. The peeping Tom immediately declared his love and Sawa said that she knew he had been watching her and that she too had fallen in love him. Luckily for the infatuated couple, an old legend decreed that if a mermaid and a man fell in love with each other, the mermaid would lose her fishy bits. Wars asked for her hand in marriage and as they walked onto the river bank Sawa’s scales fell off her and she turned into a beautiful woman. Wars and Sawa lived happily ever after and over

112 Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2016

the years a large fishing village built up around their hut. To remember its founders, the people called their village Warszawa.

Balderdash, there are no such things as mermaids you might say. But maybe Wars was a more realistic character. The accepted version of Warsaw’s etymology is that the name comes from a man called Warsz, a short form of the once popular name Warcisław. He was the owner of land around the defensive stronghold found on land near today’s Mariensztat.

The settlement that grew up around the fortification became known as Warszewa or Warszowa, meaning Warsz’s property. The name eventually became Warszawa as a result of a languagewide consonant shift from ‘o’ to ‘a’.

But that is not the true beginning of the city. The oldest known settlement within today’s city limits was the stronghold of Bródno, named after the word ‘bród’ meaning a place where a river could be forded. You can still see the earthworks today in Bródno Forest. Over time, attacks from the East intensified, and the Jazdów stronghold on the left bank in the area of today’s Ujazdów grew in importance. Its role was to protect the trading settlement of Solec, where, as the name suggests, salt from Wieliczka was unloaded after being floated up the Wisła. All this happened at Solec because that’s where the east-west trading route was intersected by the river.

In 1262, the Jazdów stronghold was captured then burned down by marauding Lithuanians. At the time, the river was receding from the embankments, so traders sought a safer river crossing and found one a few kilometres up the river at Warszowa. The rest, as they say, is history…

PHOTOGRAPH PAP

LOOKING BACK

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