Warsaw Insider August 2016 #240

Warsaw The Capital’s Original City Magazine Since 1996

• The Warsaw Uprising • Wisła Cheat Sheet • Chopin’s Birthplace • Ząbkowska Street Festival • Travel: Bydgoszcz

AUGUST 2016

EST. 1996

240

INDEKS 334901 ISSN:1643-1723

#

zł.10

(VAT 8% included)

Moving?

AUGUST 2016 Editor-in-chief Alex Webber

insider@warsawinsider.pl Art Director Kevin Demaria insider@warsawinsider.pl Fashion & Style Editor Małgosia Krakowska mkrakowska@valkea.com

Last issue I used this very page to warn of pavements going sizzle and buildings sweating buckets. What happened?

Warsaw turned grey and got wet. Still, if you roll the dice for long enough you’ll eventually throw a six: which is why, in anticipation of an August scorcher, we’ve returned to the riverfront to check out what’s cooking. Keeping to the outdoor theme, we bring you the lowdown on the Ząbkowska street festival and take in the gorgeous green of Chopin’s birthplace.

On a more somber note, August is when the city quite literally pauses to commemorate the Warsaw Uprising (if you’re new, those sirens that go off at 5 p.m. on Aug 1 mean stand still and remember the fallen). Doing our bit, we’ve assembled a roundup of key sights and points. Finally, in case you’re wondering why there’s a strange creature in the photo, that’s me donning a natty Soviet hairdryer on my nut: that pleasure could also be yours if you do as we did and head out to Bydgoszcz. For details, check our travel feature. Cheers!

INFRONT

Opener 9 Architecture News 10 City News 12 Art 14 Wisła 16 Ząbkowska 18

FEATURES

Uprising Buildings 20 Uprising Monuments 23 Uprising Murals 24 Chopins Birthplace 26 Travel: Bydgoszcz 28

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Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

LISTINGS

Restaurants 48 Cafes & Wine Bars 74 Nightlife 78 Shopping 83 Family 91 Health & Beauty 95 In the City 98

REVIEWS

SAS Duck & Chicken 33 Shoku 34 Zielnik 36 L’Arc Varsovie 38 Dekant 40

Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2016

PARTNER NEWS

The latest marketplace news from the Warsaw Insider’s friends and advertisers… 42

INBACK

Map 102 Looking Back 104

Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com Contributors: Stuart Dowell Maria Mileńko Michał Miszkurka Ed Wight Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com Senior Key Account Manager A. Julita Pryzmont jpryzmont@valkea.com ey Account Manager K Agata Sicińska asicinska@valkea.com Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com Subscription 12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland.

Orders can be placed through: insider@warsawinsider.pl Printed by Zakład Poligraficzny TECHGRAF Tel. (17) 225-28-69 VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies.

All information ©2016 Warsaw Insider.

on the cover This issue our cover artist has joined the Insider sweepstake and forecast a glorious, green August.

He’d better be right…

(Illustration by Michał Miszkurka)

PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT

So much for predictions.

CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN MEN FAY GIANVITO ROSSI MEN KENZO MONCLER ONE TEASPOON RALPH LAUREN TOD’S TORY BURCH VALENTINO VICTORIA BECKHAM BURBERRY CHILDREN DOLCE & GABBANA KIDS DSQUARED2 KIDS KENZO KIDS MONCLER KIDS RALPH LAUREN KIDS TOD’S KIDS

this month...

THEATER

RUN

Teatr Capitol, ul. Marszałkowska 115 Now offering the chance to view performances with English subtitles, a trip to the theater is no longer the terrifying prospect of old. In August, check out Lend Me A Tenor, When The Cat’s Away, My Friend Miss Flint and Nurse Jane Goes to Hawaii.

Every Sat, 9:00 @ Praga (Park Skaryszewski), Ursynów (park next to Bazantarnia), Żoliborz (Kępa Potocka park), Bródno (Park Bródnowski) Improve your run time by participating in the 5k Parkrun held across four locations each Saturday.

Various Performances

Parkrun

For info see: parkrun.pl

For details, see: teatrcapitol.pl

FOOD

CONCERT

Piknik Warszawski

Chopin in the Park Every Sunday, 12:00 & 16:00 @ Chopin Statue, Łazienki Park Listen to some of Poland’s top talents – young and old – recite works from Chopin’s oeuvre in the rose-fringed gardens of Łazienki Park. The Sunday concerts run each summer and attract crowds of hundreds.

FESTIVAL

Editor’s Pick

More than just food trucks, the Nocny Market’s line-up includes local restaurants, craft stalls, a bar, and even a tattoo studio. It’s been the smash of the summer!

Sun, 12:00 @ ul. Wawelska 5 Held each Sunday, weather permitting, the event has tapped into Warsaw’s new mania for ‘doing things together’. While the whole initiative takes meticulous planning, it’s the fun-loving spontaneity that is the most apparent: this is a place of DJs and deckchairs, food stalls and hammocks. For further info, look for them on Facebook.

Summer Gardens Festival

FILM

Until Aug 9 @ Royal Castle, Pl. Zamkowy Film screenings, concerts and operatic performances will be held pretty much every day inside the courtyard of the Royal Castle. The inaugural concert takes place on July 15th at 7 p.m., with the festival concluding in August.

Dates vary @ Patio (Kredytowa 9) Organized by the Perła brewery, this nationwide initiative brings film to the masses. Films range in scope and genre and, in August, include Crash, Wolf of Wall Street and Sugarman. Admission is free.

For details, see: ogrodymuzyczne.pl

Kino Perła

For info, see: kinoperla.pl

VISIT ŻELAZOWA WOLA – CHOPIN’S BIRTHPLACE

Nocny Market ul. Towarowa 3 Open Fri-Sat 17:00-1:00; Sun 16:00-23:00

Warsaw

Żelazowa Wola

TOURS START AT 10:30 AM. BOOK ONLINE or CALL +48 533 49 39 40 ChopinPASS – a package including admission to the Fryderyk Chopin Museum in Warsaw and the Fryderyk Chopin Birthplace in Żelazowa Wola, as well as round trip transportation via comfortable minibus.

More info at: www.ChopinPASS.com

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FESTIVAL

Jazz in the Old Town Every Sat, 20:00 @ Pl. Zamkowy Running each Saturday throughout the summer, the 21st edition of Jazz in the Old Town will bring together a number of international artists to perform for free in the Rynek and Pl. Zamkowy. Attracting audiences of up to 4,000 people, artists booked for August include the New York Jazz Masters, Cyrus Chestnut Trio, Adam Bałdych and the Antonio Serrano Flame & Co. Quartet. For further info, see: jazznastarowce.pl Free admission

ity creating charming music’, we’re told that ‘this girl knows how to entertain an audience’.

For info, see: facebook.pl/StacjaMercedes

EVENT

Old Timers Day 7 Aug, 12 noon @ Stacja Mercedes, crossroads of Kruczkowskiego / 3 Maja ‘Cars have soul’, claim the organizers, and they’ll be hoping to prove that with a magical collection of vintage cars: Roadsters, dignified Adenauers, as well as historical cabriolets.

For info, see: facebook.pl/StacjaMercedes

EVENT

Warsaw Uprising Anniversary

FOOD

Aug 1 @ various locations The 72nd anniversary of the 1944 Warsaw Uprising will be commemorated by way of numerous services, exhibitions, lectures and screenings throughout the month. It’s August 1 that will be the most poignant day, with events including a ceremonial changing of the guard at noon in front of the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, the singing of songs banned under the Nazis at 8 p.m. on pl. Piłsudskiego, and the 9 p.m. lighting of bonfires on the Uprising Mound on ul. Bartycka. Warsaw will pause for a minute’s silence at 5 p.m. to mark the outbreak of the battle.

27-28 Aug @ PGE Naradowy, Al. Poniatowskiego 1 The third annual food truck championships will see dozens of mobile vendors descend on the National Stadium to battle it out for the honor of being voted Poland’s top food truck.

For info, see: 1944.pl

CONCERT

Rihanna

5 Aug @ PGE Naradowy, Al. Poniatowskiego 1 With record sales topping 200 million, Rihanna needs zero introduction. Her Warsaw visit is part of the singer’s Anti World Tour, during which you’ll be supported by Big Sean.

Tickets from zł. 179 @ livenation.pl

CONCERT

Bovska

5 Aug, 8 p.m. @ Stacja Mercedes, crossroads of Kruczkowskiego / 3 Maja What a debut: Bovska’s first album sold out in just two days, while her vids have been watched over five million times on youtube. Billed as ‘a charming personal

Food Truck Championships

FESTIVAL

Singer’s 12th Jewish Culture Festival 27 Aug till 4 Sept @ various locations Regarded as one of Europe’s most anticipated festivals of Jewish culture, over 200 events are planned and these include screenings, guided walks, concerts and workshops with Próżna and pl. Grzybowski being the focal point.

Taken on its own, the street party vibe makes it completely unmissable.

For schedule, see: festiwalsingera.pl

FOOD

Fine Dining Week 23 Aug till 31 Aug @ various locations Warsaw’s first ever ‘fine dining week’ aims to showcase the higher end of the capital’s restaurant scene: for zł. 119 diners will be able to enjoy a tailor-made 5-course tasting menu at a number of upmarket restaurants. Restaurants that have thus far signed up include, among others, Opasły Tom, Butchery & Wine, N31 and Tamka 43. The opening date for reservations has been announced as August 2nd.

For more info, see: restaurantweek.pl www.warsawinsider.pl

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in

What’s hot, what’s not: the faces and stories trending around town LEWANDOWSKI IN NUMBERS!

75

Million Euros

The estimated market value of Lewandowski

10

Million Euros

Lewandowski’s basic salary at Bayern

35

Million złotys

The amount he allegedly spent on an apartment in Warsaw’s Złota 44 tower

1.2

Million złotys

The amount he spent on a new Bentley in July

81

The number of…

SPORT

PHOTOGRAPH PAP

The Eagles Have Landed

The Polish national team were mobbed by thousands of football fans last month on their return to the capital following Euro 2016. Eliminated in the quarter finals by Portugal, the team took the eventual winners all the way to the wire before losing in a penalty shootout.

Despite their heart-breaking exit, the squad left France with pride in tact having been undefeated during normal playing time. Advancing far further than anyone could have predicted, highlights included a snatched point against Germany and a dramatic penalty win against Switzerland.

Several players impressed over the course of the championship, with both goalkeeper Łukasz Fabiański and holding midfielder Grzegorz Krychowiak voted into The Guardian’s ‘team of the tournament’. Star player Robert Lewandowski had a quieter tournament, though his second minute goal against the Portuguese will live long in the memory. Since their triumphant return, the players have enjoyed hero status with the press tracking their moves closely. Enjoying the close season break, Lewandowski has been spotted in a string of Warsaw venues, including Shoku, Dekant and Palmier. However, the Bayern Munich forward fell foul of the paparazzi after he was spied parking his car in a handicapped space during a night on the town. “Sir Lewandowski can do what he wants,” grinned one fan.

Caps he’s earned for Poland

67

The number of…

Goals Lewandowski has bagged in the last two seasons at Bayern

35

The number of…

Goals he’s netted for Poland

5

Thousands złotys

The fee Znicz Pruszków paid for him back in 2006

www.warsawinsider.pl

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inFront

architecture news

CULTURE

Emilia On The Move Cited as one of the most outstanding examples of post-modernism in Poland, the future of the Emilia building on Emili Plater looks a little more assured after it was confirmed that the structure will be disassembled and then moved to a new location by the Palace of Culture. The fate of Emilia had been at the center of a storm after Griffin Real Estate purchased the original plot and announced plans to build a new skyscraper on the site. “This is an unprecedented event,” said Paweł Łoziński of Emilia Development, “because it reconciles the interests of both the investor and the public.” The complex operation to shift the structure to its new home will last until 2018. While Emilia originally functioned as a furniture store during communism, its last few years saw it host the seat of the Museum of Modern Art. MUSEUM

On The Wagon

Plans for a railway museum have been made public after Forum Architecki won a competition to find a design for the new institution.

Situated in the Odolany district of Warsaw, a spokesman for the Department of Culture & Tourism has expressed hopes that the project will grow to become one of the most important and modern museums in the country.

The state railway company, PKP, is expected to cover the bulk of the zł. 65 million cost, with construction slated to begin in the new year.

HISTORICAL

Project SaskiWarsaw City Hall have moved fast to dampen rumors that

PHOTOGRAPHS PRESS MATERIAL

Saski Palace could be rebuilt in the near future. “Our budget plan,” said a spokesman, “is full for the next few years.” It’s been alleged that the President of Poland has personally been pushing for information regarding the project, fuelling speculation that the zł. 200 million scheme could be reactivated.

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inFront

city news Could It Be Magic?

Magician Marcin Poloniewicz achieved his wish for world fame last month after a memorable cameo on breakfast TV. Unfortunately for him, recognition has come for all the wrong reasons. Appearing on Pytania na Śniadanie, the hapless conjurer slammed Marzena Rogalska’s hand into a spike while performing an illusory trick, leaving the host screaming in agony and requiring a precautionary tetanus jab. Footage of his epic fail has since gone viral.

Unperturbed, the magic man has vowed to continue entertaining.

Warsaw Abroad

British newspaper The Guardian has named Warsaw as having one of the top ten urban beaches in Europe. Ranked alongside the likes of Paris, Berlin and Amsterdam, the Polish capital was namechecked on account of its vibrant nightlife and atmospheric riverfront venues.

A homeless trespasser was left with a broken leg after falling ten meters while wandering around the abandoned gas towers in Wola. The vagrant was only discovered the following day by security personnel guarding the buildings. Built in the 19th century, the massive tanks are frequently referred to as ‘the Polish colosseum’, and despite being fenced-off from the public they remain popular with urban explorers and adventurous photographers.

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PHOTOGRAPHS SHUTTERSTOCK

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Benihana Restaurant – Japanese cuisine, teppan grill and sushi ul. Twarda 4 (Cosmopolitan Tower), www.benihanapoland.com, reservations: tel. 22 370 2620, restauracja@benihanapoland.com

inFront

art

Brescia.

The Renaissance in Northern Italy

August marks the last chance for visitors to view a stunning collection of 16th century paintings inside Warsaw’s National Museum…

O

pened in June, this exhibition brings together nearly 50 paintings by masters of the Northern Italian Renaissance: works include those on loan from the Pinacoteca Tosio Martinengo in Brescia, from the Accademia Carrara in Bergamo and from Italian private collections alongside a number of canvases by masters of the Lombard/Venetian cinquecento from Polish collections. A standout work serving as both a complement to the other pieces and a key part of the exhibition is Raphael’s Christ Blessing. Raphael, the youngest member of the Italian Renaissance “big three”, was considered a “divine” painter, his output becoming symbolic of the harmony in Renaissance art and a benchmark of painting perfection.

The exhibition invites visitors to compare the work of this great master with the paintings of his contemporaries active in Northern Italy. From the early 16th century, Venice and other cities of the Veneto and Lombardy regions waged a battle for the supremacy of their painting style. Inspiration drawn from the work of the

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three icons of Renaissance painting and the constant dialogue with them quickly brought magnificent results, with Northern Italian painting growing to become one of the most original and fascinating phenomena in all of European art. The richness of the Northern Italian masters’ colors, their fluid lines and their airy and vibrant compositions owe as much to the legacy of Leonardo as to the artistic environment of the Serenissima.

The paintings gathered in the exhibition are above all a tremendous homage to the great painting tradition of Lombardy, in which the fundamental principle was verosimiglianza: faithfulness to the truth, and thus, a commitment to the veracity of the rendered details. With their conscientious observation of reality, balance and realism, as well as their potent expressiveness, artists like Vincenzo Foppa, Romanino, Moretto and Girolamo Savoldo plotted a course for new and unique explorations. These pursuits would find their fullest fruition in the work of Caravaggio, who, despite being active for most of his life in Rome and Southern Italy, was in fact a son of the fog-drenched plains of the Italian North. A real feast for the eyes awaits in the exhibition’s selection of 16th century portraits, many of which seldom travel beyond their native Italy. These are works which have no equals: their pure poses, unambiguous gestures, and expressive facial features continue to enchant generation after generation.

Savoldo made use of a rich range of colours while also employing some extraordinary lighting effects. At the National Museum in Warsaw, visitors will have the chance to view his greatest masterpiece – the Portrait of a Man with a Flute from the Pinacoteca Tosio Martinengo in Brescia. The exhibition offers a broader look at the very phenomenon of the Northern Italian Renaissance by demonstrating the diversity of the era’s artistic attitudes and the breathtaking richness of its stylistic and conceptual techniques, all the while noting the love for simplicity and order shared by the like-minded artists.

The National Museum in Warsaw

Moretto - Savoldo - Moroni.

Raphael - Titian - Lotto until 28 August 2016 Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl

inFront

festival

Ząbkowska is more than just another street: it’s Praga’s spiritual gateway, a place where ‘things happen’. Its credentials attesting to this are numerous, though none stand up to scrutiny better than Otwarta Ząbkowska, a festival that seeks to encourage the ‘creative exchange of ideas and mutual inspiration’. Now in its second year, and funded by the ‘Urban Regeneration Program 2022’, it aims to celebrate art, literature, music, film, theater and food. Most of all, it aims to promote Praga whilst also ‘returning’ its most prominent street to the people.

To do so, for the duration of August Ząbkowska will be closed to traffic each Saturday and Sunday: instead of car horns and boy racers winging it down the road at top speed, visitors will find outbreaks of street yoga, an antique market trading in vintage books and vinyl, not to mention concerts featuring everyone from DJ Wika (Poland’s oldest DJ!) to traditional folk bands parping into dented brass instruments. That though is the tip of the iceberg. Scheduled events include molecular cooking workshops, a ‘mannequin march’, a silent disco and a dog parade – and even that doesn’t begin to cover the full scope of the plans. Colorful, energetic and audaciously eccentric, Otwarta Ząbkowska presents the essence of Praga.

For more info and a full list of events, check: otwartazabkowska.pl

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PHOTOGRAPHS BY ARKADIUSZ DRYGAS

THE PEARL OF PRAGA

inFront

waterfront Grunt i Woda

Grunt i Woda (Bulwar Flotylli Wiślanej)

An appealing woodframed construction with hard hitting cocktails and a thoughtful menu that utilizes ingredients grown in their own garden.

Miami Wars (Bulwar Zaruskiego 12) Found on a steep riverbank overlooking the water, Miami Wars specialize in speedboat hire and seafood grilled on-site. The bar area has become quite the party spot.

Miejsce (ul. Zaruskiego)

Miejsce

A beautiful, modern floating facility with indoor and outdoor seating: so no worries about inclement weather. With midnight closing hours, it’s more a restrained place to eat and drink rather than a full-on party spot.

Puzzle / Zyg Zag

Munchies (Bulwar B. GrzymałySiedleckiego)

The succinct menu is built around local, market fresh ingredients and cooked up by seriously competent chefs. Find it on a moored barge offering languorous views.

Wolne Chwila

Wisła On Fire

Namechecked by The Guardian as having one of the top ten riverside scenes in Europe, it’s not been a bad summer for the Wisła. Suspending for one moment the enduring suspicion that the hack responsible for the copy hadn’t actually visited Warsaw (at least not this summer), the piece was welcome affirmation of all that’s gone right. Underutilized for years, it’s not that long ago that the Wisła was, at best, miserable, and at worst, menacing: from zero to hero.

A concerted clean-up and generous public funding have assisted the makeover, but so too have the bars and hangouts that have popped up like pimples. Drawing people to the river in the kind of numbers not seen before, the nightlife action has never been more varied. No longer content to simply ape more established legends, a bundle of new debutants have taken the summer by storm.

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Puzzle / Zyg Zag (Bulwar Jana Karskiego)

Head to Puzzle for books, board games, pancakes and waffles, and to their sister bar Zyg Zag for views from a bouncy, windy rooftop. Both serve the full range of beers from the remarkable Maryensztadt brewery.

Wolne Chwila (Wybrzeże Gdyńskie 2) A kicking spot with live music and DJs, not to mention plenty of hammocks and deckchairs for the more lethargic drinker. The talking point though are eight beers taps with the runners and riders selected by the brilliant Kufle i Kapsle bar.

The recently opened restaurant and bar Mokotowska 69 is a perfect place for those who enjoy refined food and excellent wine.

The restaurant offers classic Polish dishes with a modern twist, delicious steaks and a wide range of wine from all over the world.

Mokotowska 69 was designed for those who enjoy Polish cuisine and those who would like to try classic Polish dishes with a modern twist, such as Mazurian crayfish in rowan brandy cream sauce, roasted catfish with pearl barley and beets or roasted duck with pears and blackcurrant. The restaurant also specialises in steaks made from American Black Angus (certified prime grade by the USDA), Scottish Aberdeen Angus and the highest quality Japanese Tajima-gyu cattle, “Kobe-style”: class 5, marbling 9+. ul. Mokotowska 69, tel. (+48 22) 628 73 84 / (+48 22) 627 20 33, www.mokotowska69.pl

The restaurant and wine store Merliniego 5, located vis-à- vis the main entrance to the Warszawianka Aqua Park, is the ideal place for those who love good food and fantastic wines. Merliniego 5 specialises in seafood dishes and steaks made of American Black Angus (prime beef USDA certified), especially selected from the New York-based OTTOMANELLI & SONS butchery. The restaurant also serves steaks made of the Aberdeen Angus and top quality Japanese beef from Tajima cattle, “Kobe style” (grade 5A/BMS 9+). Further, menu offers seasonal and traditional Polish cuisine dishes. At the end of 2011, the readers of Gazeta Stołeczna granted us the prestigious title of Knajpa Roku 2011 (Eating Establishment of the Year 2011). Since 2013 we have also been listed in the Michelin Guide. ul. Merliniego 5, tel. (+48 22) 646 08 10 / (+48 22) 646 08 49, www.merliniego5.pl

PHOTOGRAPHS PAP

HISTORY BUILDINGS OF THE UPRISING

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Last Ones STANDING

With the eastern front approaching, on August 1st, 1944 the Polish Home Army launched the Warsaw Uprising in a bid to take control of the city, a rebellion that would ultimately result in the destruction of the capital. To coincide with the 72nd anniversary of the action, we take a look at some of the buildings inexorably connected to the doomed revolt…

PASTa Tower (opposite)

Officially classified as Warsaw’s first skyscraper, when it was completed in 1910 the 11-storey PASTa on Zielna 37 was recognized as the tallest building in the whole of the Tsarist Empire. Functioning as a telephone exchange, it was cut off and surrounded by the Polish Home Army on the first day of battle. A bitter siege ensued, culminating in fierce room-to-room fighting involving flamethrowers and hand-to-hand combat. Reports from the time speak of Nazi soldiers throwing themselves off the top floors to escape the chaos. Finally, on August 22nd, the defending German garrison raised the white flag. Its links to the Uprising remain to this day, and among numerous other functions it houses the Veterans Association.

Prudential Tower (above)

When the Prudential (Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9) was unveiled in 1934 it overtook PASTa as Warsaw’s tallest building. Seized on the first day of hostilities, in terms of boosting morale the effect of seeing a Polish flag fluttering from the top cannot be underestimated. Despite smashing it with over 1,000 artillery shells, the Germans failed to wrestle control of Prudential until the final sur

render 63-days later. Although being rendered little more than a steel skeleton, it was rescued after the war and is nowadays experiencing another renovation to return it to its former glory.

Przebendowski Palace

This splendid Baroque inspired palace (Solidarności 62) has done it all, functioning as a hotel, a waxworks museum, a Bavarian-themed brewery and a metal factory. Now home to the Independence Museum, during Communism it served as the Lenin Museum. It’s wartime story is just as compelling: swapping hands four times it was right on the frontline of action. According to one story, when the Home Army first took control of the Palace its owner, Prince Radziwiłł, appeared from the basement and invited the Poles down for breakfast. The good times didn’t last – the next day, a 50-kilo bomb crashed straight through the roof.

Former Boiler House

From a young age Poles have it drilled into them that the Uprising began at 5 p.m. on August 1st. In actual fact, this is incorrect. Although that time marks the moment the www.warsawinsider.pl

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HISTORY BUILDINGS OF THE UPRISING

Home Army officially sprang into action, the first shots had already been fired hours earlier that day outside the boiler house on Suzina 8. Whilst making their way to an assembly point, a group of insurgents found themselves interrupted by a German patrol: “we watched each other with absolute clarity,” recalls one veteran, “the Germans were obviously calculating whether to challenge us or to pretend they hadn’t seen this group of youngsters carrying sub-machine guns under their coats.”

The Imperial Bank (above)

The Warsaw branch of the Imperial Bank of Russia (Bielańska 10/12) opened for business in 1911, and after that served as the seat of the Polish National Bank and then the German Issuing Bank during Nazi occupation. The center of heavy fighting during the Uprising, it became a rebel stronghold after capture. Shelled to smithereens by the Germans, after the war it was left in a state of hollowed-out decay. For a time, this looked to be the first choice for the site of the Warsaw Rising Museum. Today the building is best-known as the home of the Michelin starred Senses restaurant.

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Club

Undeterred by the fighting that raged around, cultural life flourished for the duration of the Uprising. Freed from censorship, the inhabitants of Warsaw quite literally took the opportunity to live life to the fullest. Of the cafes and dance halls, U Aktórek on Mazowiecka 5 was the most famous, providing well-earned R&R for the soldiers returning from fighting. With entertainment provided by pre-war film and theater stars, these cafes became raucous dens of wine and song.

Radio Station

The Central Post Office fell into Polish hands on August 3rd, and was transformed into a radio station that relayed a message to London pleading for assistance. Later, the station was transferred to the pre-war Adria restaurant on Moniuszki 10, and then finally to the library on Koszykowa.

It functioned right up until the capitulation, and featured news bulletins as well as a full artistic program. The last broadcast was made by a technician who finished by playing Warszawianka before setting fire to the equipment.

PL. KRASIŃSKICH

Warsaw’s sewage network was exploited to maximum effect by the Poles. The city’s most important monument to the Uprising portrays combatants both emerging from and retreating into the bowels of the city.

UL. BARTYCKA

The official symbol of the insurgency crowns a 141-meter artificial hill built on the rubble of the rising.

Symbolic bonfires are lit here on the evening of the anniversary.

UL. HOZUJSA 2

Created by a nurse who participated in the Uprising, this sculpture remembers all the young who perished. Find it outside Św. S. Kostka Church.

We Will Remember Recognition for the Uprising has been a long time in coming: not just internationally, but domestically as well. In the period that followed the war Poland’s puppet government viewed participants as ‘anti Communist adventurers’, with veterans facing widespread persecution, and often imprisonment in the Siberian gulags or exile to the far corners of the Soviet Union: for decades the struggle was simply airbrushed from history. With the political system showing signs of wobbling, the authorities began to cave in to public pressure.

In 1983 the scout funded Little Insurgent memorial was unveiled on the edge of Old Town; six years later, and with the Communist party in its death throes, another publically financed project was also realized: the Warsaw Uprising Monument on Pl. Krasińskich. Freed from its socialist shackles, modern Warsaw is today inundated with monuments and memorials dedicated to the battle. We take a look at some of the best-known…

UL. PIWNA 9/11

St. Martin’s Church was obliterated in the battle, and the only element that survived was a half-burned figure of Christ on a cross.

PL. SOLIDARNOŚCI ILLUSTRATIONS BY MARIA MILEŃKO

PARK SKARYSZEWSKI

A commemorative boulder remembers an RAF crew shot down during a supply drop.

One pilot survived, and he was present when Margaret Thatcher unveiled this memorial in 1988.

UL. PODWALE

Funded by money collected by the scouts, the Little Insurgent honors the children killed in action and is modeled on 13-year-old Corporal ‘Antek’ who died nearby.

In just two days over 50,000 civilians were butchered in what is known as the Wola Massacre. This monument features the silhouettes of those shot against the walls of Wola.

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HISTORY UPRISING MURALS

War on Walls

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

The Uprising still looms large in Warsaw, something evidenced by the contemporary street art dedicated to the struggle. While the inside of the wall that frames the Rising Museum is possibly the best example, there’s several lesser-known works to be found around town…

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(Clockwise from left) Dating from 2013, the mural on Wilanowska 5 celebrates the most iconic images taken of the children that played their part. An inscription in the corner simply reads, ‘remember’. The primary school on Lewartowskiego 2 recalls the sacrfices made by Warsaw’s youth with an elaborate mural illustrating ‘The Little Insurgent’. A basic work depicting an insurgent’s grave on Emili Plater 13 is lent poignancy by the bullet studded walls of the buildings nearby. Painted on the back of NMP Church in New Town, this mural came to life when three young men approached the pastor and asked if they could create a work that remembered the insurgents. “I liked their idea,” says Father Wiesław Kwiecień, “so I told them they could.”

On Most Śląsko-Dąbrowski dozens of screaming faces represent the horror and suffering.

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The Home of Music

Set 46 km west of Warsaw, a visit to the birthplace of composer Fryderyk Chopin has become a spiritual calling for the composer’s fans…

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t is, to many, the ultimate destination. For fans of Chopin, Żelazowa Wola is what the Vatican is to Catholics: a place of pilgrimage and contemplation – a near holy site where you can feel the spirit of Chopin lingering in the shadows. And now, getting there has never been easier. Operated by Chopin Pass, minibuses leave almost daily from outside of the Palace of Culture, delivering sightseers to the composer’s doorstep.

You could use the 90-minute journey to browse through the Chopin related literature onboard, but the tendency is to sit back and lose

yourself in the hypnotic tinkle of the pianist’s compositions. As roadside stops selling tires and tiles give way to quaint rural villages, travelers find themselves floating off into soothing, snoozy daydream. Back-to-earth, and the minibus comes to a halt outside the main gate, dispatching day-trippers in front of a stunning visitors center.

Completed in 2010 to coincide with Chopin’s 200th birthday, explore two ultra-modern pavilions made from stone, glass and wood. Having resisted (or not, as the case maybe) the chance to stock up on Chopin merchandise, devotees are whisked

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

SIGHTSEEING ŻELAZOWA WOLA

through a small exhibition that presents the curious story behind the monument to the musician found in Łazienki Park. This though is merely fluff leading up to the main event.

Exiting, enthusiasts follow a path up to the place of Chopin’s birth. Having been rescued from ruin in 1928, this dove-colored annex is billed as the star attraction. Though small in size, and modest in terms of exhibits (period furniture, paintings and a couple of pianos bathed in light), there is something curiously enchanting about this pristine-looking home. As admirers solemnly shuffle over the creaking floorboards, they

do so without so much as a whisper.

The silence is reverential.

Returning outside, most take the chance to ponder their experience on the benches set out on the building’s flank. Nocturnes and waltzes pipe out from speakers while curtains billow in the wind. It’s a bucolic scene befitting of the moment, however, to make the most of it visit on Sunday when the double doors of the building are thrown open and international pianists recite works from Chopin’s oeuvre.

Though there is not much more to see, there’s plenty to soak in: the landscaped gardens are of considerable size, and an exploration takes visitors down curving pathways past cascading colors. Crossing a humpbacked timber bridge, sightseers are sucked into a magical world of surging streams and shaded alcoves – such is the sedentary pace and tranquil backdrop it becomes almost tempting to miss the bus back…

CHOPIN PASS Buses leave from outside the Tourist Information point on the ul. E. Plater side of the Palace of Culture at 10.30 a.m. (Tues to Sun). An additional bus runs on Sunday at 1 p.m. Tickets are priced at zł. 119 and include transport and entry to both Żelazowa Wola and Warsaw’s Chopin Museum.

For details, see: chopinpass.com

PIANO RECITALS 7 Aug 12 & 3 p.m. Aljoša Jurinić 14 Aug 12 & 3 p.m. Alexander Gadjiev 21 Aug 12 & 3 p.m. Kate Liu 28 Aug 12 & 3 p.m. Aimi Kobayashi

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TRAVEL BYDGOSZCZ

TheWild NORTH WEST

Bydgoszcz and its surrounds reveal a weird world of cowboys and explosives, soap and magic…

BY ALEX WEBBER | PHOTOS BY ED WIGHT

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G

oing back around ten years ago, I started doing a bit of work on-and-off in Bydgoszcz. A pretty town I thought, but also pretty boring. In those days I’d stay in a sullen hotel on the edge of old town, a place where gargoyle-faced receptionists would emerge silently from the darkness before admonishing guests for perceived infractions – returning after 9 p.m., I soon found, was gravely immoral.

Not that there was much to do after that time: dining options didn’t extend far beyond the kebab with cabbage choices at the ubiquitous Sphinx, while drinking was done on my own in some dimmed, cobwebbed corner.

One evening, crossing the decomposing Mill Island, some bloke appeared from the bushes and chased me with a stick. That was the most exciting night I ever had there.

When the Focus Mall opened in 2008, it signaled a foodie revolution: no more Sphinx, instead I’d hunker in the food court eating from Burger King. So all things considered, when my work in Bydgoszcz finally finished I saw it as a blessing and never thought of it again. At least, not up until a few weeks ago…

I was sat in bed, reading a biography of J.D. Salinger, when, lo and behold, Bydgoszcz reared its head. Turns out that years before he wrote Catcher in the Rye, the author was sent there by his family in order “to learn the mysteries of the ham trade”. In a rare recollection of his time in Poland, J.D. wrote that his slaughter-master / mentor would fire a shotgun at “sparrows, lightbulbs and fellow employees”. Intrigued, I hit Google, only to learn that the very shopping center I once used to seek sustenance in was the site of the slaughterhouse in which Salinger worked: “A committee of local boosters,” writes Thomas Beller in The Escape Artist, “had initially planned for a whole statue of Salinger – to be located in a field of rye, no less – but they ran out of money. So now there is a plaque that was paid for by the owner of the mall.”

Clearly, this was a city that deserved a second chance.

On arrival, it’s immediately clear that the city has matured for the better. Where once I used to lodge in the Hotel Bastardo, nowadays Bydgoszcz can count the fivestar Hotel Bohema and the highly acclaimed Słoneczny Młyn on its books. There’s also a new Mercure which – on account of an advanced booking price of zł. 175 – has been elected to serve as our digs for the night: shelve any suspicions you may have of big chain brands, for this is a hotel that ticks all the boxes – stylish, spotless and a location you can’t argue with.

From our base it takes minutes to reach Mill Island, a place I remember as being murderous at night. Not anymore it isn’t. The EU has been kind to Bydgoszcz, and one of the principal beneficiaries has been this little haven. Now fully renovated, it’s awash with pristine parks, art installations and tinkling water features; crosstimbered mill houses, once abandoned and empty, have been resurrected as museums and galleries. Where once I saw resignation, today I see only regeneration… and a ‘magic’ seat: as we make our way from the islet we notice an outsized chair in a busy playground which, according to an info board, played a starring role in some famous Polish kids film. Made from ‘magic wood’, it grants a wish to whoever sits on it. Sensing my opportunity to become a millionaire, I make my wish then hurry away before I’m

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TRAVEL BYDGOSZCZ

mistaken for a weirdo.

The heavens open just as we reach Old Town and we seek shelter inside The Museum of Soap and the History of Dirt. We’ve missed the English-language tour but are content to browse around unmolested by the staff. Not so fast: a zany dude in a lab coat pops out from behind a curtain and insists on taking us around. My heart sinks: we’re on a tight schedule and don’t want needless distractions. But, before I can form an excuse, he’s off with his spiel. And I’m so glad for that. What transpires is one of the most entertaining museum experiences of my life: at one stage I’m sat in an old medieval bathtub while our guide, Waldemar, whips me with some flail-like implement. “He usually pays for that,” wisecracks the photographer to an alarmed American.

Full of verve, wit and banter, our whistle stop circuit of the museum is filled with nuggets of wisdom and historical insight. As I don a Soviet-produced hairdryer/cap (“it wasn’t uncommon for people to get electrocuted using those,” warns our guide), the irrepressible Waldemar recounts how locals would often pep up their milk by adding some washing powder to it. Anecdotes about European toilet habits follow, not to mention a crash course in soap making. Not just informative, it’s rollicking good fun.

Back outside, the weather has cleared and we continue our lap of Old Town. With the cobbles still glistening from the summer rain, I’m reminded what a handsome little thing Bydgoszcz actually is. Art nouveau tenements line the streets, the neat architecture occasionally interrupted by splendid bursts of Gothic strangeness. Most of all though, it is the rivers that leave an impression. With

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the Wisła and Brda scissoring through it, the city is known as the Venice of Poland. The comparison is optimistic, but nevertheless there’s something enchanting about the canals and waterways, barges and bridges. Of the latter, it is Most Jerzego Sulimy-Kamińskiego that is the most famous. From it, one sees the iconic symbol of Bydgoszcz, a sculpture depicting a man on a tightrope crossing the river. Precariously perched above the Bryda, the work was added on May 1st, 2004 to mark Poland’s accession to the European Union. ‘Don’t look back’, is its message, and one gets the idea that this town certainly hasn’t.

Having acquired a heap of pamphlets from a Tourist Information point housed inside a tram, I’m pleased that one of the aforementioned brochures suggests visiting a pub. Maintaining Bydgoszcz’s age old fixation with beer, the Warzelnia Piwa brewery promises ‘a fascinating journey through time’. We’re there in eight seconds. With views over a meandering river, we settle down on a multileveled terrace and prepare to be wowed. Naturally, the food (Polish and… Indian) gets a withering assessment and the beer doesn’t fare better. Fortunately for us, the town has joined Poland’s piwo-lution and it isn’t too long till we sniff out a proper craft beer pub.

Prolog 9 is as far removed as you can get from Warsaw’s tap bars. Resounding to an ominous soundtrack, and cloaked in a veil of shadow, we manage to decipher some of the scrawls on Prolog’s walls: ‘Troops of Doom’, ‘Ass Cult’, and ‘Harmony of Fear’. Gulp. A crazy night is had, and when we reach the hotel it’s in a state of high spirits.

Taking a nightcap on the rooftop terrace, we stare out across to the illuminated opera house opposite. “Designed in the 60s,” imparts one of my leaflets, “the opera was only

With the cobbles still glistening from the summer rain, I’m reminded what a handsome little thing Bydgoszcz actually is...

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TRAVEL BYDGOSZCZ

It’s almost as if the term ‘it’s so bad it’s good’ was coined for this place

completed in 2006.” What a wonderful city I think to myself.

The next day is a biggie. Having had a chance to study my touristic bumph, I’ve realized there’s so much more to unearth: a dinosaur park with an upside down house, a piece of public art named Andrew’s Pants (a pair of ripped trousers that commemorate artist Andrzej Nowacki), not to mention a statue honoring Marian Rajewski: a locally-born mathematician that helped break the Engima code. But I can forget all of those: outvoted by my peers, we hire a car and set off to the sticks. First, the Exploseum, a secret WWII munitions factory in the forests outside Bydgoszcz. Over 30% of the ammo fired on the Eastern Front was produced here, and we tour the grounds in stunned deliberation. Covering a vast area, the tunnels and bunkers take hours to explore. The accompanying exhibits document not just the story of the factory, but also the advancements made in weapons technology.

Biskupin, 50 minutes south west of Bydgoszcz, is next.

Known as the Polish Pompeii (again, optimistically), it’s a full reconstruction of an Early Iron Age fort. While in charge of a school outing in 1933, teacher Walenty Szwacjer saw some wooden stakes sticking out of a lake.

Suspecting they might be of archaeological value he reported his find to the local police. They ignored him, and it wasn’t until Szwacjer contacted the Wielkopolskie Museum that the importance of his discovery became apparent: this was one of the biggest prehistoric settlements ever to be found. A life-size replica of the site was built nearby and it’s been drawing thousands of visitors ever since. Dioramas and a string of actors with dead rabbits

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strung around their neck serve the purpose of demonstrating ‘this is how they lived’.

Having had a near fatal lunch in Biskupin, the journey back is conducted in grim, troubled quiet. But then, a shout: “Stop!” The photographer has spotted a billboard for a cowboy town named Silverado and the car spins around as we veer in its direction. It’s almost as if the term ‘it’s so bad it’s good’ was coined for this place. A hilarious, unexpected pit stop, we roam between a Boot Hill graveyard, stables and Dr. Quinn’s cabin. Having seen us chuckling at the lasso show, a badass sheriff shoots us a steely Eastwood stare before uttering the immortal line, “witam, chłopaki”. As we stride into a saloon filled with pensioners wearing ten gallon hats and waistcoats, we brace ourselves for the brawl that never happens. Unexpectedly, we end up having a roaring time, and such is Silverardo’s effect, we spend the rest of the day talking like John Wayne. In a way, it’s an indulgence we’ve deserved, for we have seen, survived and savored the Wild (North) West of Poland. You should as well.

GETTING THERE

By Car approx. 3-hour drive North West of Warsaw.

By train runs regularly, journey time approx. 3 to 3.5 hours

QUICK LINKS

Tourist Info visitbydgoszcz.pl

Mercure Bydgoszcz Sepia hotelsepia.pl Museum of Soap muzeummydla.pl Exploseum exploseum.pl Biskupin biskupin.pl Silverado silveradocity.pl Bohema Spa hotelbohema.pl

LISTINGS RESTAURANTS 48 CAFES & WINE BARS 74 NIGHTLIFE 78 SHOPPING 83 FAMILY 91 HEALTH & BEAUTY 95 IN THE CITY 98

Lucky Duck

Is it time for Warsaw to raise the drawbridge on pimped up street food? To say enough, no more?

Certainly not. Although SAS Duck & Chicken feels reminiscent of the ‘hipster pop-up’ we first saw three or four years back, they’ve taken a tried and tested format and hit refresh. A small and simple space it might be, but this kitchen crew have won hearts and minds with an understandable menu that presents comfort food at its glorious best: BBQ hot wings, duck confit burgers, chicken skewers and turkey in a big, buttery brioche. These are simple pleasures refined for a picky palette.

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

SAS Duck & Chicken ul. Piękna 54

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REVIEWS

Return of Fusion

i

The shocker at Shoku is its sheer success…

have to admit that I am not a fan of restaurants that have any association with the word fusion. I react to the slightest mention of it in a way that one would if they were served undercooked chicken. There have been times though that I worked up enough courage about a restaurant based on the buzz its created.

This happened with my family one weekend ago when we were looking for that secret combo: a good restaurant with a terrace to match. I wanted explore what was popping up around Rondo Daszyńskiego Metro since the Warsaw Spire had opened and I remember hearing that Shoku has a nice back space with tables. Once off the metro, we were surprised how much the area behind the Warsaw Rising Museum had changed. The street which Shoku is on, Karolkowa, not only felt like walking down a different kind of street in the city, but walking down a street in an entirely different city. The balance of modern residential living spaces with non-traditional office spaces juxtaposed with a large Frac supermarket and many places to eat made human-sense.

We settled on a nice table an earshot from the big green space adjacent to us where the kids were building bridges with Aperol spritz folding chairs. No-one seemed to mind and another couple even brought their own child over to join in. With the child distracted and placated, we took the first opportunity to bury ourselves in the menu and loved all the

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choices of among the Asian options. I spoke up first because I simply couldn’t resist ordering the mini sushi tacos that I spotted on the table next door. Within moments a barrage of plates arrived: tuna steak, ramen and a beef tartare. We ordered little vegan gyoza stuffed with spinach and tofu for the kids and waited for our food while basking in the stunning Philip-Lorca diCorcia light bouncing off the building across from us.

As the plates arrived, the aroma of spice and flavor tantalized the senses. The chicken nuoc mam was the tastiest Thai dish I have had in a while in Warsaw while the ramen with beef prompted my daughter to stick her face in the bowl to drink the last drops. While my mini tacos were a hit I have to say that I was smitten with the salmon roll with lychee, melon and black rice. A friend who ordered the chirashi sushi commented – while chewing on a stolen shrimp tempura from a neighboring plate – that maybe some places use the word fusion because they have an identity crisis; Shoku, on the other hand, use their fusion title to influence and select items that make the menu come together. On its own, that’s a very fine idea that gives me a better perspective on my previous fusion meltdowns. (KD) Shoku ul. Karolkowa 30, facebook.com/shokuwarsaw

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

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REVIEWS

Serial Grillers

It’s not just Zielnik’s garden that’s turned competitors green with envy…

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s

hielded from the outside world by a phalanx of shrubbery, the mood in Zielnik’s garden is serene and detached; a benign breeze blows under elegant canopies of pearl white color, whilst impeccable waiters glide around with practised grace. Today they will be busy, for the Insider’s team has arrived with an appetite.

What better way to start than with chłodnik, the quintessential taste of the Polish summer: chilled, complex and reassuringly refreshing, this pink beet soup is a sensational beginning. A skewer of prawns come next, complete with ripe avocado and a peppery kick. Then, a burrata salad, a simple sounding thing with unexpected texture and plenty going on.

The rock star role though is played by the grill: there is veal in chanterelle sauce served alongside pureed potatoes as fluffy as Persian kittens; sausages made with fallow deer prompt a collective swoon, while the lamb shashlik has the final word – on its own, it’s good, but with the sauce, a demi-glace made with the aid of the lamb’s baked bones, it becomes something else: something astonishing. Toasts are raised, for this is a lamb that didn’t die in vain. Amazing to think that all this wouldn’t be possible without the grill that’s so central Zielnik’s al fresco venture. Should you stay for dessert? Of course, and in particular, the towering pistachio-based meringue: light, luxurious and a big, blazing end to a feast to remember.

Zielnik

ul. Odyńca 15 (garden in Park Dreszera), restauracjazielnik.pl

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REVIEWS

THE CLAWS ARE OUT

Warsaw goes crazy for crabs…

With deliveries arriving twice a week – and sometimes even more frequently – L’Arc have become Warsaw’s premier hunting ground for the clawed crustacean. Plucked out alive and kicking from a burbling fish tank, find the crab presented with home-cut chips, a classic mayonnaise and some crab crackers and a pick. What follows next is like a surgical process, only messier – but part of the fun is in the fiddle. The results are awesome, and provide plenty of clues why many are turning their backs on lobster and celebrating the crab.

L’Arc Varsovie ul. Puławska 16, larc.pl

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PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

Celebrity chef Mark Hix has called it ‘one of the finest things in the world to eat’, while other kitchen stars such as Gordon Ramsay and Jamie Oliver have all rallied round in recent years to sing its praises. Highly sustainable, healthy and rich in protein, it’s little wonder that crab has found itself the subject of increasing attention. Of course, it helps too that it’s pretty delicious: tender and delicate, many profess to love it as much as lobster – not only is the meat sweeter and better textured, it’s cheaper as well.

REVIEWS

One to Remember Dekant shakes up Powiśle

ou’ll find Dekant in that small slice of Powiśle that’s all Bentleys, Beamers and glitzy new condos. To get an idea of the clientele, you need know no more other than this was pretty much the first place Robert Lewandowski was spotted after returning from the Euros. So, the day I’m scheduled to visit I’ve made sure to look like I’ve emerged from a swamp. Caught out by a flash thunder storm, by the time I squelch in I look like I’ve had a bucket of water tipped over my head. To their credit, the staff don’t even flinch.

My mood is sour and snarly but, with the waiter brandishing a bottle of Rioja, it’s hard to maintain the stony-faced veneer. This guy knows what I want. Branded with the Dekant logo, the Vina Alberdi Reserva 2009 is a well-structured wine rated ‘outstanding’ by Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate. I might not look it, but inside I feel human again.

Dekant, clearly, is a wine bar first and foremost. The list comprises over 400 wines from both the most prestigious producers in the world, right the way down to tiny, little vineyards you’ve probably never heard of. That Wine Spectator magazine were raving about Dekant before it even opened illustrates the regard

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PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

y

that the owner, Daniel Wasilewski, is held in wine circles. But that there is all I’ll say about the wine. I’m a pub man, and I shan’t pretend otherwise. If you want to read about wine, look yonder to other sources. I’m here for the food, and admittedly am a little bit nervous. Warsaw has a few genuinely good wine bars, but I can think of only a couple that get the menu right. When it comes to culinary considerations, there’s a lot of mediocrity out there that doesn’t go much beyond competent home cooking.

In spite of my misgivings, apprehension turns to joy once the starters are sent out. This means tiger prawns in a mango chutney/coriander sauce for my glamorous accomplice, and tuna tartar for myself. Hers first: now, I have a very dirty little secret that I keep locked like a skeleton in the cupboard – I don’t like prawns nor the prawnographic pleasure that many derive from them. Instead, I limit myself to a dip of the sauce – it’s smooth and silky and with high pops of flavor. Later, I’m told this is the best-seller, so clearly, disregard my words and see why yourself.

Tuna tartar, however, I can eat all day. This one is as it should be, light and fresh, though served with the added KA-BOOM of a nose-clearing wasabi. Delicious is the weakest adjective in the book, but that’s what this is.

Onto mains, and for her, more seafood: grilled octopus with mushroom ragout and saffron puree. Forget the runtish-looking things served in some restaurants, this is the kind of sea monster you’d see in Pirates of the Caribbean. As thick as a rope, it strikes the perfect balance between soft and chewy. For myself, there’s filet mignon, which at zł. 79 is by far the most expensive item on the menu. To add a little perspective, that’s pretty much what

Forget the runtish-looking things served in some restaurants, this is the kind of sea monster you’d see in Pirates of the Caribbean.

you pay for a ‘standard’ experience somewhere like Der Elefant.

This, though, is far from standard, it’s extraordinary. The surprise mind is the potatoes, cooked in ash giving the kind of char I’d walk miles to enjoy.

On the dessert front, my opposite number picks a chocolate soufflé with goat’s cheese ice cream, an adult-sounding dish with the perfect molten center. There’s just no way I’m letting anyone near mine though, a passion fruit semi-freddo with strawberries marinated in Grand Marnier. A cooling, decadent delight, it’s a triumphant final flourish that provides ample proof that Dekant is far more than merely a wine bar. And that alone is something to take note of: already causing a stir amongst foodies of Warsaw, expect their name – and that of chef Arkadiusz Janczarek – to grow even bigger. (AW) Dekant

ul. Zajęcza 15, dekant.com.pl www.warsawinsider.pl

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Partner News The latest marketplace news from the Warsaw Insider’s friends and advertisers…

Naturally Done

At Naturel find elegant interiors that suit the modern cuisine and minimalist menu. Based on seasonal produce of the highest quality, everything in the kitchen is natural and fresh. Chef Marcin Jabłonski’s personal touch ensures that each dish is unique. Combining science with nature, we welcome all diners to try our new August menu for themselves…

Naturel ul. Klimczaka 1 (Royal Wilanów), naturel7.pl

Try The Trattoria

You can trust an Italian restaurant to be at the front of Muranów’s culinary renaissance. Featuring stylish cosmopolitan interiors and a generous garden terrace, swing by this month to enjoy an updated menu featuring fresh fish and several new steaks and see why Trattoria Murano has become a neighbourhood favorite.

Trattoria Murano ul. Pokorna 2, trattoriamurano.pl

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NEWSFLASH! Momu are delighted to announce the arrival of their prized

wood smoker: imported from the US, the customized oven is the first of its kind in Poland, and ensures nothing but the biggest tastes and fullest flavors.

Garden Greens

As Warsaw sweats August out, the chase is on to find the city’s best garden: could that be Zielnik? Found inside one of the capital’s finest parks, swing by on Sunday’s while live jazz acts toot in the background. Sat in the shade of an elegant marquee, kick back and enjoy a wine list personally curated by Poland’s top sommelier. And there’s a grill, as well, knocking out refined renditions of ribs and skewers.

Zielnik Park Dreszera, restauracjazielnik.pl

Tastes of Now

Steamy summer evenings were invented with Bazar Kocha in mind. Positioned down on magical Mokotowska, chill down with a glass of wine before working your way round a seasonal menu full of twists and surprises: broad beans with mint, zucchini ‘flowers’, goat’s cheese ice cream with red cabbage and, of course, delicious chanterelles. Visit to discover a kitchen fully in tune with the fresh flavors of nature.

Bazar Kocha ul. Mokotowska 33/35, bazarkocha.pl

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Pure Polish

Premium Food Gate offers a magnificent range of food and drink that truly represents the real taste of Poland!

Clockwise from top: Kiełbasa Swoja, sausages seasoned with spices and herbs; Nalewki Staropolskie, traditional Polish liquors distilled using age-old methods; Wierzynek, luxury pralines from Kraków; marinated porcini mushrooms from Runoland; pretzels delivered fresh each day from Kraków; unpasteurized sheep’s cheese courtesy of Roman Kluska; refreshing, elegant wines from Jaworek; luxury handmade chocolates from M. Pelczar.

Premium Food Gate Chopin Airport (between Gate 28 and 29), open 4:00-23:00 Kraków Airport (Gate 8), open from first to last departure/arrival

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Wilanów

neighborhood THINGS TO DO With summer under way the number of tourists wandering around Wilanów rises exponentially: primarily thanks to the following…

Hit The Beach

No holidays booked this summer? No problem. Head instead to Lake Park Wilanów, an artificial beach complex featuring water sports, skateboarding ramps, bars, live concerts and an untold number of deckchairs and glam people on them. Viva Wilanów!

Summer Cinema

Bring a hamper and slop down in a deckchair. The organizers of Filmowa Stolica Lata will be pursuing an active program of open-air film screenings, with locations including both Plaża Wilanów and Royal Wilanów. Check facebook for their schedule.

Green Mile

There’s no better time to explore the vivid corners of Wilanów’s Palace gardens. Highlights include an Englishlandscape park, a Chinese garden, rose garden and a baroque park that elicits comparisons to Versailles: it’s the ideal sunny Sunday stroll. www.warsawinsider.pl

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neighborhood / wilanów

Basico ul. Branickiego 11, basico.pl Airy and spacious the mood is light and modern, the food, meanwhile, isn’t over-complicated. It’s simple, fresh and truthful to Italian standards.

The Beer Store Al. Rzeczypospolitej 14 In an area where bar options are thin on the ground, The Beer Store is a veritable lifeline. Cult international beers and Polish craft ales served to a very grateful audience.

Bierhalle ul. Klimczaka 1, bierhalle.pl The latest

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Gorący Pies Al. Rzeczypospolitej 10 Artisan burgers, creative hot dogs and local ingredients: this is street food with an upmarket Wilanów twist – you’ll hear no complaints from us. The house specialty shares the restaurant’s name, and involves a hot dog featuring lamb sausage and onion jam.

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Bel Paese ul. Sarmacka 22 Looking around the tables and you’ll see most customers diving into pizzas: but that overlooks the fact that the pastas in this highly casual neighborhood haunt are both interesting and quite often on-point.

Dunkin’ Donuts ul. Klimczaka 1 After an absence of well over a decade, how Warsaw cheered on learning DD were returning. Smaller than the average store, but do you think anyone cares?

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Bistecca Bistro ul. Branickiego 11, bistecca.pl Opened over four years back, Bistecca is something of a pioneer when it comes to quality beef. Outsiders travel from outside Wilanów’s immediate catchment area to sample meat dishes that include their signature one kilo T-Bone shaped joint: it’s a strip steak on one side and a tenderloin on the other. Chef Paweł Gajownik personally oversees the aging process.

Bay Kebab Al. Rzeczypospolitej 12, baykebab.com Even your dapper Wilanowian enjoys a kebab: teething problems aside (mixed orders and general chaos), Bay is a notch above most inner city gambles.

Deli Paris ul. Kazachska 1, deliparis.pl Pre-empting Warsaw’s surge towards artisan bakeries, Deli Paris have been at it since 2011. Aside from baked goods, the crepes are exceptional.

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Bierhalle venture is the shining pearl of this long-established empire. The beer is freshly brewed on-site and served with food befitting of the beer hall aesthetic.

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neighborhood / wilanów Kabuki ul. Branickiego 10, kabukifusion.pl Astroturf tables and pictures of oriental park life fill this Japanese-themed café; creative fruit cocktails and unfamiliar board games sit well with the vibrant aesthetic.

Kuchnia Otwarta ul. Klimczaka 1, kuchniaotwarta.pl A restaurant with serious ambitions to be the best in the area: a beautiful layout that’s modern and open is complemented by a varied menu with something for all ages and tastes.

speaks volumes. Basic interior, simple menu but solidly reliable standards.

Vilano ul. Kazachska 1, vilano.pl Find the busy open kitchen serving homemade pasta, Tuscan-style pizza, a respectable array of sea creatures and meat courtesy of Warsaw’s top butcher, Grzegorz Kwapniewski. No wonder

it’s something a local cult.

YeYe Mex Food & Music Bar ul. Kazachska 1, yeye.testa.com.pl Mexican food hasn’t imported well to Poland, but chef Jorge Martinez changes that with a simple menu that makes it look easy. Some are calling it the best Mexican in the country and the margaritas are not too shabby either.

Kuźnia Kulturalna ul. S.K. Potockiego 24, kuzniakulturalna. pl With its massive play area (there’s even a beach in the summer!), well-stocked bar, and diverse menu this former blacksmith’s is something of a catch-all solution. It’s position close to the palace draws in as many tourists as it does locals.

Milanovo ul. S.K. Potockiego 24, milanovo.pl A relaxed white-clad spot a hop away from all the sights. The menu is pretty vast, though most skip straight to the pizza.

Naturel ul. Klimczaka 1, naturel7.pl Overseen by Marcin Jabłoński, one of the rising stars of Polish gastronomy, the menu is a celebratory observance of natural local produce.

Saffron Spices ul. Klimczaka 20, saffronspices.pl Much appreciated by Wilanów’s British population, Saffron Spices is a reliable choice for the standard curries. Nothing complex here, but they do the basics well enough.

Sucre ul. Klimczaka 5, sucre.pl Purveyors of Warsaw’s best natural ice cream, Sucre is worth visiting in all temperatures on account of their Parisian-style macarons. Danger: highly addictive.

Sushi Zume ul. Klimczaka 5, sushizume.eu Apparently this was the first restaurant to take root in Miasteczko Wilanów. Still going strong, that they’ve outlasted many of their competitors

It's all about

beef!

Try polish dry aged premium beef steak’s!

Restauracja Bistecca Bistro ul. Branickiego 11, 02-972 Warszawa tel. 22 258 12 43, biuro@bistecca.pl, www.bistecca.pl

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restaurants KEY

NEW & NOTEWORTHY

$ zł. 30 (per main) $$ zł. 30-55 $$$ over zł. 55 New listings are in RED 2015 Best of Warsaw Award Winner BEST OF WARSAW 2015 KEY WINNERS Fine Dining Senses Casual Dining Bibenda Newcomer MOD Chef Sebastian Wełpa (Ale Wino) Modern Polish (Opasły Tom) Foreign Chef Martin Gimenez-Castro (Salto & Ceviche Bar)

KOTAKOTA BUNS (ul. Bartoszewicza 3) Having made a splash last year on account of its tunnel-dark interiors and inspirational cooking, Kotakota have rung in the changes with chef Adam Leszczyński rethinking the menu to present a choice of bun-based meals that look set to rock Warsaw: fillings include meatballs with cheddar and are little short of outstanding. Rehydrate with local craft beers inside interiors filled with donated furniture and peeling plaster walls.

OM NOM NOM (ul. Kurcza 41/43) Japanese meets Mexican: if there’s a more unlikely culinary marriage, then we’ve yet to hear it. Set inside a colorful, wacky space, the specialty here is the sushito, a long sushi wrap filled with the likes of sweetcorn, jalapenos and chicken panko. In the words of one established restaurateur, this is ‘a place for rich kids who don’t have a clue about food.’ That said, it hasn’t stopped the place enjoying massive local success. If you like your eating habits to break the norm, then you could well enjoy it.

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african american asian australian balkan & russian british burgers cheap eats cooking schools cuban french georgian greek & turkish indian international italian japanese & sushi latin & mexican middle eastern polish steak houses thai whole foods

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listings / restaurants african Café Baobab (H4) ul. Francuska 31, tel. 22 617 4057, cafebaobab.pl The work of former basketball player Aziz Seck, Baobab brings the tastes of Senegal to Saska Kępa. The mafe yap – beef stewed in peanut sauce – is as interesting as it sounds, and best enjoyed during their bi-monthly Saturday night concerts. $

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a menu that is, if nothing else, completely reliable. Peruse rock’n’roll swag that includes Joplin’s blouse, Prince’s guitar and Shakira’s pants. $$ Jeff’s (B8) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 32 (Pole Mokotowskie Park), tel. 22 825 1650, jeffs.pl Head to Jeff’s for supersize portions from the ribs and wings class. Servings might be big, but don’t anticipate any further fireworks with regards to the food. $

Someplace Else (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6710, someplace-else.pl Favoring a stark concrete look, SPE were once a legend of 90s/00s Warsaw. Things have tamed down since that ex-pat heyday, but this remains a noteworthy choice for live MOR rock and zippy Tex Mex food. $$ T.G.I. Friday’s (B3) al. Jana Pawła II 29, tel. 22 653 8360, tgifridays.pl/warszawa The steaks are a miss-

Amigos (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 119, restauracjaamigos. pl Educated by George Bush’s former private chef, the cooks at Amigos have mastered a comprehensive menu that’s nothing if it isn’t a roll-call of true Texan tastes: steaks, ribs and other dishes befitting of the Dodge City saloon-style surrounds. Neither is the south of the border forgotten, with strong cameo appearances from the chimichanga and fajitas. $$ Brooklyn Restaurant & Bar (C4) Al. Jana Pawła II 18 (Rondo ONZ), tel. 22 114 3434 Gone are the fancy pants culinary creations once found in the basement, ousted in favor of a menu of pimped-up soul and street food, salads and steaks. This means fresh tacos not to mention Mito’s Beef Ribs and 100% beef dogs. The ground floor burger bar is more prosaic, offering a standard line-up of burgers and wings: they’re loved by many. $$ Champions Sports Bar (D5) Marriott Hotel, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 5119, champions.pl While the concept and style look dated, there’s no faulting the attention to detail – wherever you look (aside from under the table), there’s a TV. The heavy décor brings to mind the trans-Atlantic sports bars of the 90s, with glinting trophies, whirring machines, clacking pool tables and a cacophony of commentaries. Hell, there’s even a boxing ring. But you can’t fault their consistency: the food is always on-point, the staff are pro, while the generous floor plan makes it suitable for unwieldy groups of large and loud lads. $$ Hard Rock Café (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, hardrockcafe.pl Instantly recognizable by the giant neon guitar outside, Hard Rock has a pierced staff of skater boys and rock girls and

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listings / restaurants and-miss affair, and even the burgers can’t compare to Warsaw’s armada of burgeries.

And the interiors are just as you’d remember: crass, vulgar and stuck in the 90s. Why do people bother? $$

asian Bliss Restaurant (D2) Rynek Mariensztacki, tel. 22 826 3210, blissrestaurant.pl Longevity aside, Bliss (alive since ’95) boast classically cliche interiors that make dramatic use of dragons and buddhas. Inconsistent accuse some, though you’ll struggle to find better Chinesestyle ribs. $$ Choila ul. Zajączka 25, choila.pl Having made the effort to get here, disappointing doesn’t even begin to describe it. Presenting the dishes of Nepal and the Himalayas, gorgeous sounding dishes transpire to be gloopy offerings more reminiscent of the cut-price budget food cabins you once found around the old bulldozed stadium. $$ Du-Za Mi-Ha (D4) multiple locations, duzamiha.pl A compact Vietnamese joint noted for fresh, healthy nem filled with crunchy, perky fibers. The pho, on the other hand, is disappointing – according to one reader, “awful”. Prices begin at around zł. 10 and don’t go far north of zł. 20. You get what you pay for. $ Onggi (D2) ul. Moliera 2 Positive transformations aren’t confined to Ramsay’s Kitchen Nightmares: after a dreadful start characterized by bland, claggy dishes, this Korean restaurant has spun a U-turn that’s left the competition reeling. The menu is daunting in size, but contains wildly interesting finds such as a streaky bacon stir fry, spicy pickled Daikon radish and lotus root simmered in soy sauce. $$ Pantai (G3) ul. Wybrzeże Szczecińskie 1 With its surprisingly classy tropical look, the primetime to visit the beachside Pantai is summer. Beautiful cocktails play their role, but so too does a succinct menu of Asian food that includes Malaysian laksa soups, some dim sum options, and tempura duck: alas, rumors of a slide in standards persist – we’ll be checking them out shortly. In the meantime, find it in the slick construction that stands between

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the National Stadium and the riverside. $$ Pekin Duck ul. Drawska 29A, tel. 22 412 8988, pekinduck.pl Looks like a typical Chinese – i.e., like a 1980s New Year’s Eve ball – and the service is carnage; expect lots of miscommunication and truculent attitude.

The food isn’t bad, though it’d be interesting to know how many pigs feet they actually ever sell. $$ Shabu Shabu Hot Pot (D6) ul. Mokotowska 27, tel. 535 685 750, shabu-shabu.pl Each table has its own set of hot pots installed and once you choose your broth and extras, you are the master of your own culinary destiny. We chose some seafood and some greens and were served a dish that was not quite a pad thai, but incredibly tasty all the same. A simple meal, but satisfying nonetheless. $$ Silk & Spicy (D5) ul. Żurawia 16/20, tel. 22 629 7012, silkandspicy.pl If you don’t benchmark Silk & Spicy against what you’d eat in Asia (and you really shouldn’t), then you might enjoy it. “The curry was on taste-wise,” said our disappointed graphic, “but the cream cheese didn’t work in the sushi and the kmichi-style salad served at the beginning was very pedestrian for such a place.” $ Sora (A4) ul. Wronia 45 Usually bubbling with South Korean customers, their reassuring presence affirms Sora’s growing reputation as the top Korean restaurant in town. Set in a piece of slightly garish new build, the menu here is as close to authentic as you’ll find in Poland, and includes a fiery kimchi salad, and an interesting bibimbap: a vegetable mix served in a spicy sauce. $$ Toan Pho (D4) ul. Chmielna 5/7, tel. 888 147 307 Toan Pho’s bowls of soup with rice noodles come highly recommended; as does the chaos intrinsic to this type of casual Asian eatery. The short menu is in Vietnamese with Polish decoding – although you can ask for an English version. $ Wi-Taj (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 4 Despite the name, it’s actually the cuisine of Vietnam that is the dominant entity in this restaurant. There is the odd moment of madness (glazed cherries

appearing at random), but in general Wi-Taj does a grand job of representing a kitchen that hasn’t always enjoyed the greatest publicity in Warsaw. The crunchy, perky nem are a fine way to start, but it’s the steaming bowls of pho that have this Insider promising to return. As for prices, these rarely climb north of zł. 30. $$

australian Kalaya (D4) ul. Jasna 26, kalaya.pl Service is natural and instinctive while the design plays on the Australian theme in a way that’s clever but not cliché. It’s a style that’s light, fresh and completely engaging, something that is – whether by accident or design – in synergy with the menu. For starters, the swordfish carpaccio comes alive in an explosion of citrusy bangs, while the leek soup leaves a swoony feeling of lingering luxury. As for mains, that’s where the grill gets a star billing: the emu is a standout. $$

balkan & russian Ba Adriatico (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 50/52, ba-adriatico.pl As a starter, then the grilled peppers stuffed with creamy, regional cheese are irresistible.

But then so too the octopus salad. Mains are a victory of simplicity, with dishes like skewered minced beef served with a bitey sauce and a soft, pillowy Lepinja bread. Yet ignore Thursday seafood night at your peril.

Croatian-run, this neighborhood spot has an unassuming air that belies the general quality. $$ Banja Luka (E8) ul. Szkolna 2/4, tel. 22 828 1060, banjaluka.pl Lots of clunky timber and imported ceramics set the scene at this eatery, a Balkan stalwart that’s known for its economical pricing structure and bulky portions. Grilled meats are prominent and the food largely reliable. $$ Babooshka (E3) ul. Oboźna 9, lok. 102, tel. 22 406 3366, babooshka.pl Looking intimate and woodsy Babooshka serves up dollops of simple Russian food to a budget conscious crowd. The bacon and tomato scented solyanka soup is a thick broth best suited for Warsaw’s long, windy nights. $

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listings / restaurants U Madziara (B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 620 1423, umadziara.pl U Madziara looks like it took two days to decorate. No-one goes here to marvel at the interiors though, they go in the knowledge that they’ll find great food at prices all bank cards can support. Chef Gabor’s signature goulash is one of life’s simple pleasures, though the service can come across as distracted and inattentive. $

Yugo (B4) ul. Sienna 83 (enter from Żelazna), tel. 694 109 379 You feel alive just being here: big on Colgate white colors, vintage tourist agency posters and bright stickers, Yugo is just about the cheeriest eatery you’ll come across on a dour Warsaw day. Presenting the food of the former Yugoslavia, this Balkan bolt hole specializes in meaty dishes served in traditional bread. $

british British Bulldog (D4) ul. Krucza 51, tel. 22 827 0020, bbpub.pl The pub design is wonderful, and straight out of Midsomer Murders with its Chesterfield sofas and Cutty Sark mirrors. But it’s been a downhill disaster since they lost the original management team. What could have become Poland’s original gastro pub now serves greasy burgers and, judging by the stench at the bar, lots of food that’s way over-fried. $$ Ę Rybę (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 18, erybe.pl Warsaw’s has done fish and chips before, yet nowhere has managed to capture the unique taste of the British seaside as convincingly as this place.

Forget the grey and greasy offerings the city has previously volunteered, here’s a spot where the chips are golden, the fish fresh and the batter crisp and light. Doused with malt vinegar, and a couple of dollops of tartar sauce, here’s food that cuddles and comforts those Brits who miss home. $$ Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640, legendsbar.pl It’s a British pub first and foremost, but massive steps have been taken to ensure that the food angle isn’t overlooked. The all-day breakfast is a great way to stoke up your drinking powers, while other dishes of note inc. pies, sausages and mash and, of course, fish and chips. $$

A PLACE IN WHICH WINE PLAYS THE FIRST CHORD IN HARMONY WITH WHAT APPEARS ON THE PLATE…

Pik’s Fish & Chips (A6) ul. Grójecka 17B You wait years for a fish and chip shop and then two come along at once. But most of the Brits are converging on E Rybę in the center, and there’s a reason for that: entered into a head-to-head and there’s one clear winner. It’s not Pik. Comparisons to E Rybę are both inevitable and unfavorable: smaller portions and tastes that are just not quite there. $

burgers WE WELCOME YOU

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Barn Burger (D4) ul. Złota 9. tel. 512 157 567, barnburger.pl Retaining a loyal crowd ever since their 2012 entry on the burger circuit, Barn Burger offer a loud and lively atmosphere and much celebrated burgers with goofy names like Heart Attack and Muppet. The list by the door notes the results of their American-style

listings / restaurants eating competitions / greed-fests. $ Beef’N’Roll (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel. 531 707 070, beefnroll.pl If the wheels have fallen off the burger craze then no-one told Beef’N’Roll.

Originating as a food truck, their success has been such that a fixed venue was required.

Everything about the food and drink suggests quality is the main consideration. $ Burger Bar (E10) ul. Puławska 974/80 (enter from Olkuska), tel. 780 094 076, burgerbar.waw.pl Warsaw’s first legitimate burger spot was the talk of the town when it first opened up in 2012, only to have its thunder stolen when 100 copycats opened in their trail. But this lot have kept plugging away, sticking to their guns with little song and dance. Intimate and unassuming, it’s for good reason they’ve retained a loyal core of fans – if the words masterpiece can be applied to a burger, then their green chili burger is just that. $ Warburger (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1, warburger.pl While Warsaw has lost its appetite for burgers, you wouldn’t necessarily tell by popping in WarBurger. Set inside a diminutive cabin, join the scrum for jazzed-up burgers that use slow-food ingredients. If not the best, they’re most certainly up there. $ Warsaw Hot Dog & Burger (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 15 While it seems behind the times to be talking about a trend that curved out a couple of years back, the bottom line is people are still craving burgers. And that’s little wonder when they’re this good.

The Firestarter is a game changer and even better with a pile of double-fried chips. $ Ziggi Point (B4) ul. Pańska 59, tel. 696 145 735 Diners are summoned to the counter to collect their order via a buzzer, before settling down to enjoy what has emerged as a real candidate for Warsaw’s best burger. The fiery Desperados is as perfect as a burger gets, and best twinned with a Curiosity Cola from the Fentimans brand. Steaks and wings also available inside a cool diner setup. $

cheap eats Bar Turecki “Efes” (H4) ul. Francuska 1, ul. Aleje Niepodleglości

80, tel. 22 898 3001 So it’s a kebab shop, but when the kebabs are this good they’re well worth the listing. Either join the queue outside, or head indoors to sample the smattering of grill food and salads. $

Original Indian Cuisine

Bez Ości (D5) ul. Hoża 51, bezosci.com Those lamenting the loss of Warsaw’s first artisan sandwich stop – MeatLove – have been given hope by the opening of a new venture across the street. Specializing in fish-based sarnies and baguettes, the choice includes deboned catches fresh from a stint in the smokehouse served in bread baked in traditional brick ovens. The cod with horseradish choice is a particular bestseller. Find it occupying a tiny, converted space inside a former vodka distillery.

Diner 55 (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34 Young? Broke? Try Diner 55. Set in a dark, industrial basement, this spot fills with skater types showing off their first tattoo. The menu is born of an alliance between Pan Burger, Rico’s Tacos and Mr. Pancake, and is good enough for a quick fix solution. $ Fabryka Frytek (D4) ul. Złota 3, tel. 505 671 334, ul. Waryńskiego 9, tel. 505 671 334, fabrykafrytek.pl Giant portions of Belgian fries (up to 600g!), waffles, wedges and whatever else you can make out of a potato come served with an equally comprehensive range of dips and sauces. $ Falafel Bejrut (B2) ul. Nowolipki 15 Light, bright and buzzing with custom, this cheerful venture has a good scattering of seating and an expanded menu whose talking point is Poland’s best falafel.

The hummus, too, is pretty amazing. $ Justyna’s Secret Recipes (C4) ul. Marszałkowska 138, jsecretrecipes. com We’re told Justyna was inspired by the Pret-a-Manger chain. Whatever the case, you just can’t fault her sandwiches which are fixed using proper imported bacon, organic sundries, and the freshest of bread. The delivery service is highly recommended for desk-bound officebots. $

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Manekin (C3) ul. Marszalkowska 140, tel. 22 826 0753, manekin.pl Originally founded in Toruń, this pancake house chain is a national www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / restaurants phenomenon – there are times when queues for a table snake outside. The menu touts dozens of pancake options served in sweet and savory form (there’s even a spaghetti version…), though not everyone agrees they’re worth the often silly waiting times. $ Mr. Pancake (E3) ul. Solec 50, tel. 501 237 461, mrpancake.pl You’re just going to love their pancakes, with their fun, wacky look and creative toppings (M&Ms, funny faces traced with icing sugar, and lots of chocolatey stuff). They’re the sort of pancakes you’d get if Bart Simpson got stoned and decided to make some food – brilliant. $ Okienko (D7) ul. Polna 22 Belgian-style frites served in paper cones right from out of a street-side hatch. Yes they’re good, but they’re bettered by the sauces that are written up in marker pen on the wall tiles. With money exchanged, do your eating on the upturned crates left on the side of the curb. $ Pogromcy Meatów (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, tel. 505 703 508 Yearn no more for the elusive flavor of the backyard BBQ. Specializing in grilled meat, find exactly just that loaded into artisan buns alongside locally grown greens. The sense of homespun quality makes this the kind of comfort food that Warsaw has been missing for years. $ To Tu Dumpling Bar

ul. Niekłańska 33, chinskapierogarnia.pl A shabby looking shack cabin, To Tu offer what are seriously considered some of the best – if not the best – dim sum in town.

Magic-ked up by a Manchurian exile, the experience isn’t unlike being in a sweaty back street haunt in Asia. And that’s a good thing! $

cooking schools Akademia Kulinarna Whirlpool ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), akademiakulinarnawhirlpool.pl Run by two Italians, find a gleaming kitchen inside a vast warehouse space inside Soho Factory. Mediterranean workshops are the primary foundation, though wine tasting and Polish cooking courses are also available.

Cook Up Studio ul. Racławicka 99 (Fort Mokotów), tel. 22 212 89 76, cookup.pl Workshops in a gorgeous cooking studio located in a redbrick fortress.

Past themes have included Swedish cooking (led by the Swedish Embassy chef), knife skills and soup, with lessons culminating in eating all that hard work.

Scheller Academy ul. Międzynarodowa 68, tel. 22 626 80 92, schelleracademy.pl Instantly recognizable by his beret and whiskers, Swiss-born Kurt Scheller invites guests to his Saska Kępa kitchen for lessons aimed at all skill levels.

HANDMADE PASTA Original Italian Pizza ORGANIC VEG ITALIAN WINES Cocktail bar and weekends with DJ

ADDRESS: Marszałkowska 115 (next to the theater Capitol) Plac Bankowy, Warszawa CONTACT: phone: 507 099 190 kontakt@restauracjasi.pl fb.com/RestauracjaSi www.restauracjasi.pl

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cuban El Caribe ul. Mickiewicza 9, tel. 22 400 0994 Start with a round of daiquiris before ordering frijoles negroes (black beans). But everyone agrees, it’s the flan that gets you doing the cha cha. With the cooking left to a Cuban exile, this perky spot is worth the trip north to Żoliborz. $$

french ArtBistro Stalowa ul. Stalowa 52, tel. 22 618 2732 Part of an ‘art hotel’, the distant Stalowa features a narrow dining chamber with vaulted walls, fresh flowers and white formica fittings.

It looks good, but on a brighter day the courtyard, strewn with deckchairs and crates, is the place to be. The food is erratic – our vol au vent starter was dry and devoid of taste, while the chocolate ‘cream’ dessert was a runny, ugly looking disappointment.

But there is potential: the main was a thing of excellence – duck with a carefully crisped skin, a perfect hint of fat, expertly browned potatoes and a well-executed orange and caramel sauce. $$ L’Arc (E8) ul. Puławska 16, tel. 519 000 050, larc.pl You sometimes suspect Warsaw doesn’t give seafood the respect it deserves. But the city’s shortcomings are atoned for by L’Arc.

listings / restaurants Choose from the lobsters swimming on Death Row, then settle back for a meal to die for. Likewise, the oysters and mussels never disappoint. $$ Petit Appetit (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 27,tel. 22 826 44 61, petitappetit.com.pl A bit of French you say?

Step in. There’s an atmosphere here that melts regulars and tourists into one. An easy coexistence that reveals a lot about the very soul of the place: café, hangout, bistro. Small choice but good results. $$

georgian Chinkali (D4) ul. Zgoda 3 Signposted by a Georgianlanguage shingle, there’s a real sense of pleasure about this place. More modern than your typical folksy ethnic outpost, Chinkali’s draw is indeed its chinkali: dough purses packed with meaty broth. There’s a genuine homemade quality to these slurpy bundles of joy, meaning that while they’re always authentic and tasty, consistency can vary. And don’t miss out on the red bean chachapuri washed down with a mouthwash-colored tarragon lemonade. $ Klukovka (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 45A, www.klukovka.pl Jana Pawła’s pavilions are the unlikely location of this culinary beacon: amid the aggressive waft of its kebab shop neighbors, Klukova presents itself as a warming winter mouse hole filled with banter, babble and rich aromas. Specializing in the foods of ‘the east’, this means a menu inspired by the tastes of Georgia, Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan, and more. The mutton manty dumplings are great, and best appreciated with a bottle of unfiltered Lithuanian beer. That said, it’s never a surprise to find diners ordering up bottles of Georgian vodka before proceeding to share their way through the menu. $

greek & turkish Santorini ul. Egipska 7, tel. 22 672 0525, kregliccy.pl/ santorini/ Santorini looks scuffed and tired but there’s a bonhomie present that instantly engages. The kitchen attaches no value to things like presentation, preferring instead to simply treat diners to piles of grilled and skewered food that consistently tastes right – and the milfei dessert is magic. $$ Sofra (C6) ul. Wilcza 71, tel. 731 847 731 A highly respected Turkish eatery with a wondrous beef mussaka and a wholly admirable lineup of other ethnic dishes: the lamb shashlik has never failed us. Pleasingly informal, this neighborhood redoubt feels cheerfully unforced, and it becomes an easy place to hang around in. $

bombajmasala.pl One of the best looking Indian restaurants in Warsaw, but the food rarely pokes above average. For a cuisine that prides itself on rich, intense tastes, Bombaj gets remembered for bland, oily dishes that only sometimes get finished. Yet business remains brisk, thanks in part to a combination of location and general culinary ignorance. $$ Chmielarnia (B4) ul. Twarda 42 (basement level), tel. 725 010 271 Find some of the world’s greatest beers served in a murky, muggy basement. The Indian food that accompanies it is generally successful without being memorable – the beer snack menu though is great, with big points going to the spicy, chili ribs. Now also boasts a more salubrious location on Marszałkowska 10/16. $

Bollywood Lounge (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, tel. 22 827 0283, bollywoodlounge.pl Known for their raucous dusk-till-dawn parties, there is another less hedonistic roll filled by Bollywood: that of a restaurant. The menu is an uncomplicated, classic affair that’s an ideal primer for the party ahead. $$

Curry House ul. Żeromskiego 81 & ul. Hoża 54, curry-house.pl It’s not been a distinguished year for the Indian scene, with a few old favorites slackening and newcomers failing to make a mark. But hail Curry House for their continued, ceaseless brilliance. That includes the hottest vindaloo for hundreds of miles!

Evolving from a glorified hut out in far-flung Bielany (which is still going strong), they’ve recently upgraded and opened a new venue bang in the city center.

Bombaj Masala (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 606 688 777,

House of Curry ul. Patriotów 11 A, house-of-curry.pl Heat

indian

Rusiko (E5) Al. Ujazdowskie 22, tel. 22 629 0628 Vodka shots at the ready! Rusiko finished 2015 voted Gazeta Wyborcza’s Knajpa Roku, a very public endorsement of all they’ve done right. The food is the equivalent of a warm cuddle on a cold day – it makes you feel good in the heart and soul – and when it comes to hospitality they’re in a league of their own.

Live music lends the weekends a goodhumoured twist. Note: closed Monday. $$

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listings / restaurants seekers can ‘enjoy’ a genuine death-by-fire experience at House of Curry, though far milder curries are available for more sensitive palettes – either way, the experience is fantastic, and good news for those stuck out in the depths of Józefów. $$ Karma ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 501 400 386, restauracjakarma.pl Fresh, contemporary interiors impart a chic, classy look that’s leagues ahead of Warsaw’s other Indian restaurants. The food is largely impressive, with fresh ingredients and an expansive menu, though it does lack the extra punch you maybe looking for. If there’s a complaint, then it’s thus: a little timid for more robust tastes, a few extra spices in the pot wouldn’t go amiss. $$ Mandala ul. Emilii Plater 9/11 & ul. Etiudy Rewolucyjnej 9, tel. 22 428 44 54, mandalaklub. com or indiaexpress.pl Celebrating their 10th birthday this year, Mandala is well on its way

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to becoming a Warsaw institution. But rather than resting on their laurels, the management are using this landmark anniversary as an opportunity to rejig the menu and update their offer. Using the freshest ingredients, Mandala is characterized by its blitzing big spices and a vindaloo capable of giving the sweat glands a work out. For something calmer, the creamy mutton methi malai is a masterpiece. $$ Namaste India (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 15, tel. 22 357 0939, namasteindia.pl Responsible for first bringing quality, budget Indian food to Warsaw, Namaste have expanded from humble beginnings (three tables and cooking done in a cupboard-sized space behind a curtain) to evolve into a bona fide two-floored restaurant. Consistency, however, has become a problem. Whilst we rated a recent butter chicken as the best we’ve had for years, another Insider blasts the Madras as being, ‘the worst curry ever cooked!’ Good luck. $$

Om (B4) ul. Sienna 86 Indian restaurants are popping up like toast, which isn’t a problem for most ex-pats. Catering to the more budget end of the market, Om’s Nepalese chefs know their way around the kitchen. The chicken tikka masala is satisfying if nothing memorable, but the madras is something else: filled with sharp, punchy tastes that leave a lasting impression. While you get the idea it’ll never challenge the more established Indian restaurants in Warsaw, it’s the kind of place you’d be very happy to live next door to. $$ Tandoor (D7) ul. Marszałkowska 21/25, tel. 22825 2375, tandoor.com.pl After nearly 20 years at the helm, owner Charanjit Walia has sold up and moved on, leaving a spiritual hole in his life-defining work. His parting shot has been a re-haul which has seen the interior modernized and brightened. Has the food suffered? Not a jot. The chicken tikka butter masala is as formidable as ever. It’s no longer the self-styled, ‘the best Indian restaurant in

listings / restaurants Poland’, but it’s deservedly retained a loyal core of customers. $$

international Aioli Inspired by Mini (D6) pl. Konstytucji 5, aioliinspiredbymini.pl Such is the success of this venue, there are moments when the scrum at the bar threatens to spill into blood sport. The huge neo-industrial interior packs out with a young, lively demographic sinking ‘tank’ beer and powerful cocktails over a menu that chiefly encompasses pizza and burgers. $$ Aioli (D3) ul. Świętokrzyska 18, tel. 22 290 102, aioli-cantine.com This runaway hit has taken Warsaw by storm. It’s a jaunty space with hams hanging from hooks and long communal tables that thrive with life. Aioli’s breakfasts, sandwiches, pastas and pizzas are a lesson in clean, simple pleasure: nothing out of the world, just consistently good. This and the liberal prices mean there’s no shortage of people passing in and out the doors. $$ Ale Wino (F5) ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 628 3830, alewino.pl Dip through an archway to discover Ale Wino, a beautiful wine bar whose menu has been well tailored to the season.

Tweaked for the season is the pork belly, a Złotnicka pig adorned with apple sugar snap peas and celery mousse – gorgeous. As for the wine, put your faith in the sommelier, Oliver. BEST WAWA 2015 “Chef” A nuż widelec (E3) ul. Dobra 14/16, tel. 507 367 520 So snug is A nuż widelec, the feeling is of being round at a friend’s house. The food is nothing fancy, but fresh and made with love – and it feels even better while the owner potters about, chatting with his guests and watering the flowers in the knockout garden.

Such is the atmosphere, you want to call it home. $$ Bazar Kocha (D6) ul. Mokotowska 33, bazarkocha.pl Designed to evoke the spirit of a farmers’ market, the woodsy interior is filled with stall-style units neatly stacked with jars and pots. Yet these are not decorative decoys, but part of a thoughtful grocery offer aimed at showcasing Kocha’s own-made produce. Above all

though, this is a restaurant whose menu is strongly influenced by concepts of ‘terroir’.

The giant leg of lamb falls off the bone and is a dish to recommend and remember for several months to come. $$ Bibenda (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 10, tel. 502 770 303, bibenda.pl With its weathered brickwork and a long wavy bar occupying a significant chunk of the entrance, you don’t get much more casual than Bibenda. ‘True food’, their menu calls it, before expanding to rattle on about ‘fresh, seasonal ingredients and home-style techniques’. On our visit that involved a potato salad with red onion and parsley: basic stuff, but delicious when mushed together; next, soft duck thigh placed on top of a tangy red cabbage reduction and served with charred parsnips; and dessert, a pink beetroot cake that was gobbled in seconds. $$ BEST WAWA 2015 “Casual Dining”

Finest Authentic Indian Cuisine in Locations Around Warsaw

PATRIOTÓW 11A, FALENICA 512 533 415 WWW.HOUSE-OF-CURRY.PL

Boska Praga ul. Okrzei 23, boskapraga.pl Boska Praga does its best to keep everyone happy – and succeeds! Supremely family friendly, the welcome doesn’t just extend to kids, but also to dogs. Set inside a restored industrial facility, this well-designed leviathan maintains an intimacy, despite its size. As for the menu, that keeps all tastes covered with a varied offer that includes tapas, pizza, burgers and more thoughtful dishes such as ox tongue with pepper sauce. $$ Brasserie Warszawska (E5) ul. Górnośląska 24, tel. 22 628 9423, brasseriewarszawska.pl Looking for classic cuisine with no daft flights of fancy? Here you have it. At a time when everyone wants to be Ferran Adrià, Brasserie has both a menu and interior that you can understand: pan-fried foie gras; elegant beef Rossini; and sinful apple tarte tatin, all served inside posh interiors of zinc-plated mirrors and chessboard floors. Their Michelin Bib Gourmand is a source of pride, but it’s the number of repeat clients that are the ultimate paean to the skills of chef Mateusz Wichrowski. $$$ Bubbles (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 512 540 913, bubbles.com.pl Occupying a small, square room, it’s intimate and relaxed: a place busy

ŻEROMSKIEGO 81 508 870 774

HOŻA 54

536 443 771 WWW.CURRY-HOUSE.PL www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / restaurants with blackboards and bottles, crates and clutter. The food is exquisite, and includes big, meaty snails farmed in Mazury, and their signature dish: Swiss-style raclette.

Presented on a wooden chopping board, this cheese dish is classic melty goodness, and served alongside a pile of potatoes, onions marinated with caramel and candied pumpkin. $$

Bułkę przez Bibułkę ul. Zgoda 3 & ul. Puławska 24, bulkeprzezbibulke.pl When Bułkę przez Bibułkę was opened the idea was simple – to create a boutique version of Subway: a high quality sandwich shop people would value. But after they started serving breakfast, the whole thing snowballed into a more bistro-style offer. Now there’s a second venue on Zgoda, it’s not just the quality that’s contributed to the success, but the atmosphere as well. $$ Concept 13 (D4) ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7373 You’d expect a rooftop meal at Poland’s ultimate luxury department store to cost the earth, but that’s not the case. The zł. 50 lunch deal allows Joe Public to enjoy the considerable skills of Dariusz Barański. That he manages to create different pieces of art each and every afternoon is a testament to his talent – fellow chefs and foodies privately talk of him as a Michelin star in the making. $$$

Dekant Wine Bar (F5) ul. Zajęcza 15, dekant.com.pl A definite contender for Warsaw’s best new wine bar, Dekant have also nailed down an excellent menu that’s brief but brilliant: the filet mignon is the undisputed highlight. $$ Der Elefant (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, tel. 22 890 0010, derelefant. com This leviathan restaurant unravels in a maze of wrought iron and monochrome tiles – beautiful to look at (it was created by Oscar winning set designer Allan Starski), it’s caused a stir for more than just this alone.

Where once the menu looked like it was devised by throwing darts at a cookbook, the focus has now been narrowed. While some of the dishes are strictly middling, the filet mignon (zł. 69) is one of the best meat deals in town in terms of quality / price / consistency. $$ Dyletanci (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44A Filled with crisp, modern citizens that radiate confidence, Dyletanci introduces itself as a bistro set with green banquette and Tom Dixon lamps. The wine selection is among the best in the nation, while the cooking has been left to Rafał Hreczaniuk, a workaholic chef with outrageous talent. His zander fillet thrills with every bite. $$

Grand Kredens (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 111, tel. 22 629 8008, kredens.com.pl This mighty veteran continues to draw a steady custom on account of a wide-reaching menu that aims to keep everyone happy – and it usually does. The design is surreal to say the least, and is laid out in such a way as to always guarantee a lively atmosphere. $$ Joseph’s Bistro & Wine (B1) ul. Inflancka 4, josephs.pl Spacious and smooth on the eye, it has the feel of a place where good things happen, and indeed they do. For starters there’s a visually enticing tuna tartar, not to mention gherkin with rhubarb and cheese. It’s frankly remarkable with all sorts of tastes popping out thanks to a marinade that involves passionfruit, chili, vinegar and maple syrup. As a main, don’t miss the duck breast: a simple thing of beauty that’s given extra vigor with a star anise demi-glace. $$ Kaskrut (D6) ul. Poznańska 5, tel. 22 622 5438, facebook. com/dwichlab Back after a short break, this haunt has a high communal seating plan and hip, buzzy foodie crowd: fit in by taking pics of the food. The exciting menu is a temporary work that changes every two weeks. The place is known for its trial-and-error attitude: combinations that don’t work get binned before making a public debut. Those that make it through the qualifiers end up on the board. Servings are artistic, excellent

Loft is the perfect place to pause for a moment for a coffee, to meet with friends for lunch or a late dinner – most of all, it’s a chance to escape the city bustle while remaining in the heart of Warsaw. ul. Złota 11 tel. 668 016 964 restauracjaloft.pl

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listings / restaurants and heavily influenced by French and North African cuisine. $$

has, in the past, presented such choices as chicken with strawberries. $$

La Brasserie Modern (D3) ul. Królewska 11 (Sofitel Warsaw Victoria), tel. 22 657 8332, sofitel-victoria-warsaw. com The interior of Didier Gomez whispers intimacy, yet it also embraces notions of space and light. The casual elegance that emanates from the design is accented by warm colors, low banquettes and glinting mirrors. Acting as a ballast to it all is an open kitchen, in which you’ll find Executive Chef Maciej Majewski honing his art. His is a menu that fits seamlessly with the surrounds: a fresh, modern look at French cuisine, but one that values clarity and simplicity. $$

MOD (D6) ul. Oleandrów 8 Chef Trisno’s menu sets his French culinary training against his Singaporean upbringing. The outcome is a card (actually, a printed sheet of paper) that makes for dangerously enjoyable reading.

Moderate prices and funky décor (a retro mirrored wall, upside down plants hanging from the ceiling) give it an ad hoc edge and plenty of character. Note: by day its Warsaw’s top donut store, so visit at night for their proper menu. $$ BEST WAWA 2015 “Newcomer”

La Rotisserie (C1) ul. Kościelna 12 (Le Régina Hotel), tel. 22 531 6070, leregina.com A gloriously seductive dining room, Poland’s champion sommelier, and a chef that many recognize as being Michelin potential: put those three together and you have one of the finest experiences to be enjoyed in a Warsaw dining room. The cooking is ‘classic with a twist’, and in October that meant – for this diner at least - tuna with beetroot and yuzu, and a main of beef fillet: electrifyingly good. $$$ L’enfant Terrible (D8) ul. Sandomierska 13 (enter from Rejtana), tel. 22 119 5705, eterrible.pl Chef Michal Brys might look like he’s just swaggered in from a rock concert, but his flair for experimentation is second to none: expect a menu that marries local produce with the latest tricks and techniques. The tasting menu (six courses for zł. 199) is a brilliant insight into the mind of a chef who likes to experiment and push boundaries. With all the hype you expect this place to be a little up its arse, but it’s anything but. Again, credit for that goes to Brys and his front-of-house staff. $$$

Loft (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 668 016 964, restauracjaloft.pl Color, that’s what Loft has. It’s everywhere – from the design, which is all bubble shaped lights and splashy, bright cushions, to the drinks: extravagant cocktails that possibly glow in the dark.

The menu is full of playful experimentation, something reflected by a seasonal menu that

INTERNATIONAL CUISINE, BEAUTIFUL INTERIOR

- YOUR PLACE TO BE

Mokotowska 69 (E5) ul. Mokotowska 69, mokotowska69.com Set inside a rotunda at the tail end of the street, it’s a place that exudes elegance and class. Most of all, however, it’s a restaurant to be enjoyed. Brought to you by the same team credited for Merliniego 5, Mokotowska’s appreciation of steak has been lifted from their elder sister. Yet the virtues of this restaurant extend beyond steak alone: the Insider enjoyed a volley of greats – creamy breaded calf brains, sophisticated smoked eel, and Mazurian crayfish served in a deep, joyous sauce of rowan berry and brandy. $$

Naturel ul. Klimczaka 1, naturel7.pl Find here a beautiful space that’s generous on light, polished surfaces and bursts of color from seasonal flowers. Using ingredients largely sourced from the chef’s family farm, Marcin Jabłoński’s menu is a monthly-changing artwork that, on our visit, includes a deep and creamy raviolo, a full-flavored hanger steak with a feisty mushroom ragout, and desserts that are a different class: you want to see the sea buckthorn tart with meringue and avocado/apple ice cream preserved for eternity. $$ Nocny Market (A5) ul. Towarowa 3 (Past Warszawa Główna Train Station) Set on and around a disused train platform, this weekend hangout gets thronged: guys with waxed whiskers queue for new wave beer while uber cool girls cast

ul. Wilcza 50/52 tel. 22 623 02 90 wilcza50restaurant wilcza50 www.wilcza50.pl www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / restaurants Jessica Rabbit eyes at a hip hop DJ. Mostly though, it’s a place that’s about food: an ever evolving line-up brings together not just food trucks, but quality restaurants hawking their specials from tiny stalls – keep an eye on their facebook to see who is booked for the weekend. $

Nolita (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 292 0424, nolita.pl The deluxe dining scene is filling out in Warsaw, and there’s now a few restaurants that can present an equitable claim for the No. 1 spot. However, it’s Nolita that perch at the top, with a menu that sees largely classical recipes through a sharp, modern prism – chef Jacek Grochowina has created a place that’s coherent and understandable without sacrificing values of innovation. Looking chic and high end, the tastes and sensations in this restaurant are thrilling: diners are left speechless by the tuna tartar, while the aged beef fillet is an Insider mainstay. $$$

Nowa Próżna (C3) ul. Próżna 10, nowaprozna.pl Where once Próżna was symbolic of Warsaw’s urban

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decay, today it’s been rebooted as a swank street of brasseries and bistros. Nowhere captures the zeitgeist with the same élan as Nowa Próżna, an intimate corner unit that feels representative of the change. Dishes to watch for include young rooster in an intense pool of jus and a zander encircled in a forest of greens: powerful stuff that leaves those assembled in a state of joy. $$ Oliva (D4) ul. Ordynacka 10/12, tel. 501 497 410, restauracjaoliva.pl The spirit of the Mediterranean hangs over Oliva, a place where a milk color palette is matched against potted herbs and soft wooden touches. The menu has riffs of Italy, Spain and Greece, with particular pride attached to their gourmet olive oils. At times the cooking of Łukasz Żuchowski has been described as ‘inspirational’ and his talents come paired with a wine list selected by Marek Kondrat – an actor / wine merchant with an immense reputation. $$ Północ Poludnie (E7) ul. Bagatela 10 Besides the food being colorful and inventive there is a restaurant concept that works here. It has a visible kitchen, which at times is a little noisy, a beautifully designed interior, not to mention an attentive wait staff that are familiar with what they serve. Be warned though, the rumor is that the new chef has over-complicated what was a winning formula – we’ll be there soon to see for ourselves… $$

Qchnia Artystyczna (E6) Zamek Ujazdowski, Al. Jazdów 2, tel. 22 625 7627, qchnia.pl Even on a cold, ashen day, can you question a view that spills down onto a canal and park way down below? And how about when that view comes from a candle-lit reconstructed castle… Endlessly romantic, this artistic eatery comes with a light look and a creative menu honed by Marta Gessler. $$

Salto (D5) ul. Wilcza 73 (enter from Emilii Plater), tel. 22 584 8771, saltorestauracja.pl For those who think Argentine chef Martin Gimenez-Castro is just about steak, then they haven’t been to Salto. The tasting menu is the best way to view his full oeuvre, and on our visit included ceviche with Portuguese corvina; a dainty tranche of cavala mackerel; and Porcini ice cream served in the shape of a mushroom.

It’s a brilliant demonstration of the chef’s passion and personality, but most of all, it’s just bloody brilliant. $$$ BEST WAWA 2015 “Foreign Chef” Sawa Bistro (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5, sawabistro.pl For such a busy street this stretch of Grzybowska is remarkably under-represented when it comes to restaurants of note. Sawa, therefore, offers a ray of hope. The vibrant interiors include explosions of greenery and a striking

listings / restaurants mosaic balanced out by neutral concrete colors, making it the kind of place you’re happy to settle down in. Maciej Nowak, food critic extraordinaire and local restaurant kingmaker, raved about the tapas, though beyond those try the duck confit. $$ Secado (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 66, tel. 608 707 799 Casual, intimate interiors complement a menu that’s expanded from its original Latin leanings. Everything we’ve tried here has been culinary gold, and that includes the surf & turf, tortillas and roast beef. $$ Senses (C2) ul. Bielańska 12, tel. 22 331 9697, sensesrestaurant.pl A spectacular experience from start to finish: begin by walking through a flame-lit tunnel, and then conclude the night with an edible cigar: a grand tobacco flavored pastry infused with whisky and cinnamon. In between our night includes beetroot bread with a teat pipette of apple essence; a beef rib that’s a big blast of smoke and crunch; and a shellfish goulash that’s rich and rough and rolling in flavor. Perfectly paced, expertly portioned and bristling with invention, their newly acquired Michelin star makes bookings essential. $$$ BEST WAWA 2015 “Fine Dining” Signature (D5) ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 55 38755, signaturerestaurant.pl You feel a millionaire just being here: we’ve heard the interiors described as a ‘Monegasque state of mind’, and that’s not a bad way to surmise a décor that’s all about friezes and reliefs dated from the time this was the Soviet Embassy, lavish 1950s Oswald chairs, lighting by Serge Mouille and original Marilyn photos shot by the acclaimed Milton Greene. Food-wise the restaurant makes a massive splash with a menu that’s clever, creative and pretty. Count on Signature’s seasonally changing desserts providing a happy ending. $$ Soul Kitchen Bistro (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 18A, soulkitchen.pl If the previous venue was all slanted towards low-pitched business conversation then the new one is positively festive in comparison: scuffed brickwork, tall bar stools, a long communal table, etc. The seasonal menu is a pick-and-mix of small-to-medium plates, including a halibut gravlax, whose delicate taste juxtaposes well against the rougher, earthier kick of the radish, and crayfish

presented in a bird’s nest of green beans, fennel and leek. For mains, look for the braised beef. $ Stixx (A4) Pl. Europejski 4A, tel. 22 340 4040, stixx.pl A quite extraordinary concept that stands out as Warsaw’s most ambitious gastronomic project for years. Shoehorned between the Hilton and the dazzling Warsaw Spire, the first thing to strike visitors about Stixx is its size: immense. Despite that, an intelligent design means intimacy is never short in supply. The menu is bold, featuring elements of Polish, Asian and Italian cooking. $$ Socjal (E4) ul. Foksal 18 Looking raw, industrial and refreshingly ascetic, the principal feature of Socjal is a long communal table that lends a celebratory buzz. Menu highlights include homemade pasta and ravioli as well as pizzas that are held in particularly high regard. $$ Warburger Na Talerzu (B4) ul. Żelazna 58/62 The easiest mistake one can make is to think this is a burger joint – in part it is, but the whole truth is that it’s so much more. A complete upgrade from their original joint in Mokotów, the real attraction is an enticing page of more-ish, meaty mains: oxtail, beef cheeks and other snips of bits and offal. $$

Wilcza 50 (D5) ul. Wilcza 50, dwietrzecie.waw.pl The helter skelter culinary history of Wilcza has seen umpteen openings and closings, and this L-shaped corner unit has been the principal killing field. The latest development has seen the acclaimed Dwie Trzecie rebrand as Wilcza 50 and revamp their menu. Big on natural, local ingredients, the cooking is modern and inspired. $$

italian Ave Pizza (E3) ul. Topiel 12, tel. 22 828 8507, avepizza.pl The argument over who serves Warsaw’s best pizza goes right to the wire, but there’s no doubting that Ave Pizza are up there on the leaderboard. Set across a sparse, metrowww.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / restaurants politan area, this fashionable L-shaped joint comes endorsed by the capital’s notoriously picky Italian community. Order the pillowy calzone and you’ll soon learn why. $ Delizia (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 22 622 6665, delizia. com.pl The sheer proliferation of Italian restaurants lends an element of chance to dining out: cut through the noise by visiting Delizia, a place that’s consistently topped polls ever since it launched in 2010.

Lorenzo’s cooking is upscale Italian with a

contemporary twist, and comes presented by Luca, an ebullient ball of energy who patrols the floor with sparkling good humor. $$ Dziurka od Klucza (E3) ul. Radna 13, tel. 500 150 494, dziurkaodklucza.com.pl An inviting Italian restaurant in which curious doors sit embedded into the walls, as if waiting to be opened by the keys that hang on the tree outside. Striking a lavender look, the magic of this restaurant is affirmed by its wonderful pasta and intimate style. $$

Enoteka (C1) Rynek Nowego Miasta 13/15, enotekapolska.pl It’s the wine bar New Town has been waiting for ever since… the old Enoteka closed. The eagerly awaited return brings with it a new location – right on the corner of New Town Square – and a menu

by Paweł Męziński: yep, the same guy who made their kitchen great back when it all first began in 2009. Add a handpicked wine list from some of the top producers in the world

Lebanese Restaurant

Le Cedre 61

opposite the zoo Al. Solidarności 61, Praga Tel 22 670 11 66

Still the Best after all these years (since 1997)!

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Le Cedre 84

opposite the court Al. Solidarności 84 Tel 22 618 89 99

www.lecedre.pl

listings / restaurants and you have a place that’s definitely one to watch for. $$ Focaccia (D2) ul. Senatorska 13/15, tel. 22 829 6969, focaccia.pl The Insider’s visit went something like this: wrist-thick octopus with an arc of yellow mousse, conversation stopping beef tenderloin alongside a glistening pool of madeira sauce and then an orange ice cream with caramel and ginger that soon merged into a big gooey brew of chocolatey mess. $$ Mąka i Woda (D4) ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 91 87 Purists applaud an approach that uses a custom-made oven from Naples and imported ingredients such as 00 Caputo flour and DOP certified San Marzano tomatoes.

Scrupulously authentic, it’s no wonder that it’s packed to the gunnels every night of the week – even their Facebook page warns of 20 minute waiting times for a table alone.

Learning this, some storm off in a huff – they need their heads checked, for this is Warsaw’s best pizza. $ Sexy Duck (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 3 Italian cuisine gets an artisanal makeover in the Sexy Duck, an eatery that instantly engages with a high impact interior that’s not shy in its use of aged, raw materials. The menu – a simple work that covers one page – brings a twist to this celebrated cuisine, with pizza and pasta dishes incorporating fresh ingredients that bring out the nuances of the food. With their eye on a new generation of diner, equal focus is awarded to fruity new wave drinks rustled up by smart waist-coated gents. $$ Si (C3) ul. Marszałkowska 115 From the makers of Secado comes a new downtown venture: Si, a fun Italian stop with homemade pasta, an array of pizza and a hefty choice of cocktails.

Geared towards good times, a list of rotating daily offers has done a fair job of drumming up trade. $$

Trattoria Murano (B1) ul. Pokorna 2, tel. 516 754 300, trattoriamurano.pl Boosted by a number of new real estate projects, Muranów is in the midst of an unlikely renaissance. A direct knock-on has been the birth of numerous

restaurants, though few can compete with Trattoria Murano. Looking dapper with its zigzagging brick patterns, circular lights, and large summer terrace, the good mood is further enhanced by a highly credible menu that scores well on the Italian classics. The bistecca di manzo (beef tenderloin with green pepper sauce) is a wonder. $$

japanese & sushi Benihana (C4) ul. Twarda 2/4, benihanapoland.com Fire, flash, show and sizzle: the Benihana experience merges cooking with cabaret with diners sat ringside around teppanyaki grills.

These cooking stations are the stage for the Benihana crew to demonstrate their riveting range of nifty knifework and daredevil antics.

Outside of the realm of the grill, the sushi is also strikes the right spot. $$ Izumi Sushi ul. Mokotowska 17, tel. 22 825 7950, izumisushi.eu The original location never ceases to amaze with its sushi, though it’s the addition on Biały Kamień that really gets people talking. Here it’s not just the food that wows, but the interiors: a huge venue whose open plan doubles as an indoor forest – you need to see it to believe it. $$

‘Simplicity, elegance and atmosphere’

Cafe • Wine Bar • Restaurant • Whisky Bar • Wine Cellar ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 515 037 001 www.hoza.warszawa.pl www.facebook.com/hoza25 Open 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-21:00

Sakana Sushi Bar ul. Burakowska 5/7 tel. 22 636 0505, ul. Moliera 4/6, tel. 22 826 5958, & ul.

Wąwozowa 6, lok.10B, tel. 22 498 8899, sakana.pl Sushi as a fashion statement?

That’s what you find in Sakana, a place where the glam and the great of Warsaw peacock around with feathers on display.

Ignoring the general vanity and unpleasantness, one can’t help but applaud the sushi – if there was one winner in the sushi wars of the noughties, then Sakana was it. $$ Sushi Zushi (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 420 3373, sushizushi.pl The mania for sushi is in recess, and that’s a good thing – the rogue operators are dead or dying off, and are survived by the best. And make no mistake, Sushi Zushi continue to be the No. 1 ex-pat choice. Appreciated by a stunning crowd, the rolls are often bold, creative and always astonishingly fresh. $$ www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / restaurants Uki Uki (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, tel. 728 827 705, ukiuki.pl It’s been a magical debut year, that’s for sure.

How much do the locals appreciate Warsaw’s original udon bar? Enough to queue outside the door? That’s right. Dining is a close quarters experience here, but is done so without complaint: that electric pasta maker turns out noodles of such chewy goodness that everyone leaves beaming. $$

latin & mexican Casa Pablo (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5A, tel. 22 324 5781, casapablo.pl “We give Spanish food a new twist,” declares chef Gonzalo de Salas, which explains why, in between pungent cheeses and acorn-fed Bellota ham, we find ourselves demolishing a variety of dishes that buck all notions of tradition: as a starter the beetroot-marinated salmon served with wasabi emulsion is a fine example of this.

With de Salas performing balletic tricks in

the kitchen, Casa Pablo presents a masterful menu that ripples with adventure. $$ Ceviche Bar (C4) ul. Twarda 4, cevichebar.pl Created by the award-winning Martin Gimenez Castro, Warsaw’s first specialist ceviche bar serves up various interpretations of this classic raw fish dish: the corvina is an explosion of peppy, citrusy tastes and leaves you in no doubt why some are tipping ceviche to become as big as sushi. Try for yourself inside a contemporary space in which the dining area merges seamlessly with a kitchen decorated with a mural of Maradona. $$ BEST WAWA 2015 “Foreign Chef” Gringo Bar (E9) ul. Odolańska 15, tel. 22 848 9523 A Mexican wave is upon us, and high time too. After years of suffering frozen ingredients, timid flavors and daft Mariachi music to persuade us it’s all authentic, a raft of new cut-price eateries are showing the rest how it’s done. Cooked and folded by

fist bumping lads in back-to-front caps and baggy t-shirts, the food at Gringo is by far the best of the bunch: fiery, fresh and full of zing.

Newly expanded, meaning diners no longer engage in games of Twister while grappling with their burrito. $ La Sirena (D5) ul. Pięka 54 Warsaw’s Mexican scene is finally showing signs of maturing beyond the 90s: La Sirena is particularly interesting, with an edgy interior that speaks of backstreet Mexico City. Brought to you by the same team as the amazing Dziurka od Klucza restaurant in Powiśle, the food has got this place packing out. Heat levels need to be adjusted upwards, but even so this looks set to be one of the breakthrough hits of 2016. $$ Tapas Gastrobar (A4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 251 1310, tapasbar.pl The engaging design features scuffed timber tables supported by rescued factory metal, open ductwork and elaborate floor tiles of Iberian persuasion. But the food

AUTHENTIC POLISH CUISINE

Krakowskie Przedmieście 64 tel. +48 22 826 4770 email. info@delicjapolska.pl www.delicjapolska.pl

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Restauracja Stary Dom ul. Puławska 104 / 106, 02-620 Warszawa

tel.: (+48) 22 646 42 08 www.restauracjastarydom.pl

Restauracja Zielnik ul. Odyńca 15, 02-608 Warszawa tel.: (+48) 22 844 35 00 www.restauracjazielnik.pl

Restauracja PAPU

Al. Niepodległości 132/136, 02-554 Warszawa

tel.: (+48) 22 856 77 88 www.restauracjapapu.pl

BREAKFAST SERVED ALL DAY

Plac Bankowy 4, Warszawa ZdrowaKonkurencja.pl +48 572 322 222

listings / restaurants is what everyone is talking about: the first class gazpacho, prepared onsite then served in a bottle, is full of refreshing zing, while the beef cheek is pure melty tenderness. Our favorite, though, are the patatas bravas, perfectly fried potatoes served in a ballsy tomato sauce. Just amazing. $$ Thai Me Up (E4) ul. Foksal 16, thaimeup.pl Taking the spot once occupied by Papaya, Thai Me Up offers up a far more informal experience than the former, something understood by one look at the interior: gone is the slick look of yesteryear, replaced by something far more casual, fun and cluttered. As for the food, that succeeds in bringing the fresh, zippy tastes of Asia to Foksal. The wok dishes are a forte and deserve special attention.

Spoco Loco (H4) ul. Francuska 8, spocoloco.pl It begins with a bead of sweat. Then a couple of tears. Then the real pain starts and doesn’t retract until you’ve rolled on the floor and died for twenty minutes. Spoco Loco’s No. 7 sauce is no laughing matter, and should be treated with respect. But this tiny eatery is not founded on gimmicks. The burritos and quesadillas are decent in the comfort food kind of way, and ably supported by a choice of milder sauces that don’t require Red Cross treatment. $ Urban Burritos (D6) ul. Piękna 22, urbanburritos.pl It’s here, in this unassuming subterranean world, that people gather for what is being hyped as Warsaw’s top burrito. Offering fillings of pork, beef, chicken and Portobello mushroom, wraps come expertly constructed and served with salsas that sing with gusto. Set within shouting distance of the US Embassy, peak times see Urban Burritos fill to the seams with America’s finest. $

middle eastern Le Cedre (E1) Al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166, www.lecedre.pl With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops. $$

Le Cedre 84 (B3) Al. Solidarności 84, tel. 22 618 8999, lecedre.pl Le Cedre just keep on getting it right.

Authenticity is key in this chainlette (well, there’s another across the river), as you’ll discover when talking to Tony, the Lebanese owner. To see the diversity of this cuisine, order the balbaak (six cold starters) or the byblos (six hot). And food aside, it’s the atmosphere that carries them that extra yard: the whole philosophy of this cuisine is to share and share alike, making it a uniquely engaging experience when dining with friends. $$

IE ŚNIADAFN ST A K /BREA 0

1.3 8.30 - 91.00 - 12.00 y d n e k e we st

kfa brea ee kawa do śniadania f f za 1,00 zł :) co

LUNCH 12:00-16:00

TIME 21zł

Sokotra (D5) ul. Wilcza 27, tel. 22 270 2766, sokotra.pl It says a lot for Warsaw’s developing tastes that it can now house a successful Yemeni venture. Bathed in chatter and chaotic kitchen sounds, Sokotra is an informal place with Indian twists on the menu, and a card that encourages plenty of plate sharing. $$

polish

Ale Gloria (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7080, alegloria.pl Who said romance was dead?

Here wedding white colors are fused with a strawberry motif inside this gourmet fave.

Keeping patrons returning are aromatic dishes with a contemporary twist – try the duck in rose sauce. $$$ Amber Room at the Sobański Palace (E6) Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, amberroom.pl The Amber Room is, indeed, a bit of a treasure. You know all the chefs we bang on about in this mag? Bottom line, the good ones came through via this kitchen.

But this is more than a training ground for future stars, it’s a place that remains on the cutting edge in spite of its seemingly straight look. Positioned inside a majestic villa, the food is pure contemporary Poland, and well deserving of its Michelin nod. For that, thank chef Robert Skubisz. $$$

Orki ałki i wt POniedziay i tuesday d n O /M

1+1

5zł

Środy/Wednesday

OwOCOwe kOktajLOVe 12,00 zł/szt

tki / Czwar ay d thurs

WI-FI

ul. Okrzei 23 03-715 WarszaWa tel 22 40 45 489

WWW.bOskapraga.pl

Atelier Amaro (E6) ul. Agrykola 1, tel. 22 628 5747, www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / restaurants atelieramaro.pl The recipient of Poland’s first Michelin star, Atelier promotes pedigree Polish produce enhanced by modern techniques, with courses interspersed by occasionally bizarre interludes (leaves, flowers, twigs, etc.). It’s an extraordinary dining experience, and one which confirms the growing cult of chef Wojciech Amaro (who, unfortunately, nowadays is a rare sighting in his restaurant). $$$

Czerwony Wieprz (Red Hog) (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 22 850 3144, czerwonywieprz.pl Shush!

Big Brother is watching in the Red Pig, but the beady-eyed tyrants who stare down from the portraits do little to impede the sense of revelry. A cheeky celebration of days of yore, this commie-themed restaurant is always great fun. The menu is a humorous affair divided between dishes for the proletariat and the dignitary. Another vodka, comrade,

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and the first secretary’s pork loins while you’re there! $$

Delicja Polska (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 64, tel. 22 826 4770, delicjapolska.pl Looking stately (pink bows, gilt touches and immaculate linen) but never stuffy, Delicja have a modern Polish menu that includes sous-vide salmon marinated in beetroot leaves, then topped with horseradish foam and dill emulsion.

Brilliant. But then so was everything else we tried, including the exquisite seasoned roast beef. $$ Dom Polski (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 2432, restauracjadompolski.pl Almost like it was designed for the manor born, Dom Polski has the rarefied atmosphere of a country retreat: bow-tied staff

who click their heels, decorative antiques and a menu that’s a sumptuous anthology of posh Polish cooking. When you need to give visitors a sense of classic Warsaw, Dom Polski is the first out of the hat. $$$ Dom Polski Belwederska (F8) ul. Belwederska 18A, tel. 22 840 5060, restauracjadompolski.pl See in Autumn amid curling pathways and bursting shrubs, or sit inside in an interior that conjures images of an aristocrat’s manor. The air of privilege matches a menu that’s rich in fanciful classics such as their signature goose.

Elegant and exquisite, consider it your default choice for a taste of true Poland. $$

RESTAURANT &

VODKA

AT E L I E R

Elixir by Dom Wódki (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl The dashing interior causes you to stop, look and touch. On one side, a gleaming bar with twinkling bottles, and on the other, a smart series of rooms whose ash-colored

listings / restaurants tones are punctuated with dashes of copper.

The menu has a traditional heart yet a contemporary style, and includes golonka to make the heart flutter: glorious slow-cooked meat alongside horse radish ice cream and a creamy cabbage mousse. The vodka pairing menu is essential! $$

Folk Gospoda (B3) ul. Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605, folkgospoda.pl Be honest, sometimes all you want to do is slather lard on a big hunk of bread before surrounding yourself with little shots of ice cold vodka. You wouldn’t call it cultivated, but there are occasions when a good knees-up around a rough wooden table is exactly what’s required. And while you’re there, why not add platters of meat to the scene, a crackling fireplace and a mountain band. Folk Gospoda do all that making them the default favorite for a traditional night out. $$ Kafe Zielony Niedzwiedź (E4) ul. Smolna 4, tel. 731 996 006 Exceeding all expectations in their second year, the Green Bear has turned into the mothership for all things relating to slow food: if in doubt, check the menu, an ode to provenance that comes complete with detailed biographies of their suppliers. Using creative techniques, this restaurant modernizes Polish food and rolls it out inside a stylish building popular with people who look like they might well be famous. $$ Kieliszki na Próżnej (C3) ul. Próżna 12, tel. 501 764 674, kieliszkinaproznej.pl You’ll find Kieliszki na Próżnej, the latest restaurant to mark the rehabilitation of Próżna, so named after the 1,116 wineglasses that hang tantalizingly over the bar. As an anchor feature the suspended glassware is arresting, and equaled only by a long stretch of wall art doodled by Mariusz Tarkawian. The food matches up to the interiors, with a modern Polish menu that – on our visit – involved a thick, brilliantly spreadable foie gras pate, a thick slab of brawn and a delicate piece of moist Baltic cod. It’s pure seasonal comfort. $$ Kmicic (D1) ul. Piwna 27, kmicicrestauracja.pl Aiming to evoke the spirit of pre-war Warsaw, Kmicic is something of a veteran on the Old Town circuit, and as such a perennial favorite of

passing tourists. The menu leans heavily towards traditional and is noted for its game including pheasant, venison and boar. $$ Opasły Tom (E4) ul. Foksal 17, kregliccy.pl Sneaked off a lively street, guests duck down into a chain of two narrow-ish chambers that, whilst not exactly casual, feel comfortable and familiar. Agata Wojda’s cooking is sublime, and on our latest trip include a gentle goose confit rested on pumpkin puree and prune sauce and a smoked trout mousse full of unexpectedly vivid flavors. It’d be easy to write this off as just simple stuff done well, but you know that’s not the case: if it really were that straightforward, everyone would be pulling it off. $$ BEST WAWA 2015 “Modern Polish”

Papu (D9) al. Niepodległości 132/136, tel. 22 856 7788, restauracjapapu.pl The elegant décor sees wood-paneled walls lined with champagne bottles, making it an experience that is at once intimate and romantic. Chef Bartek Kędra’s menu is specifically strong when it comes to white and red meats: order the beef rib. It’s a massive, brutal instrument that could be used to club someone to death. Fall-off-the-bone good, this Flintstone monster is seriously memorable. Other courses are more sophisticated, and include a knee trembling, lipstick red strawberry tartar. $$ Prasowy (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16 This canteen-style phenomenon, with its history rooted in communism, has enjoyed a remarkable renaissance and a freshly found popularity with a new generation. Sure, the food is an acquired taste and best described using words like ‘basic’, ‘bland’ and ‘honest’, but Prasowy gets our vote. $

Polish food the way it’s meant to be...

Piwna 27 Stare Miasto (old town) tel. 22 635 3121

Przystawki (B1) ul. Stawki 3, tel. 22 299 1619, przystawki. com Welcome to Muranów: the black hole of local gastronomy. But change is in the air – first came the opening of Jaś i Małgosia, and now comes Przy Stawki. Both keep it simple, gunning for a straight forward menu that presents the kind of cooking you’d like to see at the in-laws: local ingredients cooked with care. In a nutshell, this is Polish home www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / restaurants cooking at moderate prices. More places like this, please. $ Restauracja Polska “Różana” (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 22 848 1225, restauracjarozana.com.pl The rarified atmosphere of Różana is a pleasure indeed. Close to the frontline of Mokotów / Śródmieście, you’d never guess the proximity of the center. Seated in their garden, one feels removed from the city – a fountain burbles quietly in the background, starlings hop around the trees. From the inside, one hears the distant tinkle of the house pianist.

Just being here is a thrill in itself, and the food is a Polish dining extravaganza served from the top table: farmhouse duck, saddle of venison, etc. $$ Słoik (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 600 396 688, restauracjasloik.pl Jarheads will love Słoik, a place lined with glass jars brimming with colorful ingredients and bright preserves.

Find natural Polish produce and traditional-

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sounding dishes treated with a careful and contemporary hand. The approach pits modernist against classic, and the winner is, well, you. This is traditional Polish food updated for the discerning, latter day palate – and it’s really quite something. $

Smaki Warszawy (D5) ul. Żurawia 47/49, smakiwarszawy.pl Well-known on the Wielkanoc pełna smaku!

Warsaw scene as a delightful Polish restauWyśmienity smak żurku z grzybami i białą kiełbasą, pasztet z dziczyzny rant, Smaki Warszawy is also renowned for its z konfiturą z cebuli i rodzynek, drożdżowe baby i mazurki...

Wielkanoc -Smiling niech twoje święta będą pour amazing lattés and cakes. staff pełne smaku. serve up slices of to-die-for pistachio cream cake. $$ Zapraszamy do składania zamówień świątecznych: CENTRUM: ul. Żurawia 47/49, Warszawa, tel. +48 (22) 621 82 68, godziny otwarcia: 7:00 - 22:00 ŻOLIBORZ: ul.Felińskiego 52, Warszawa, tel. +48 608 046 406, godziny otwarcia: 9:00 - 20:00 www.smakiwarszawy.pl

Solec 44 (F4) ul. Solec 44, tel. 798 363 996, solec.waw.pl Beaver tail one month, carp heads the next.

Combing the farms and forests of Poland for his ingredients, chef Aleksander Baron’s menu is a daring exploration of his nose-totail philosophy with many of his methods

reprising extinguished traditions. It’s a real experience, and one that’s enjoyed inside a spontaneous looking, cut-price interior that clacks and clatters to the sound of grown-ups playing board games. $$

Stary Dom ul. Puławska 104/106, tel.

22 646 4208, restauracjastarydom.pl A classic restaurant in style and history: back in the day it was a favorite haunt of jockeys and race goers from the horse track nearby. Pre-war recipes form the basis of the menu, with the team using seasonal produce and the latest technology to bring out its best. $$ U Fukiera (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 27 (Old Town Market Square), tel. 22 831 1013, ufukiera.pl New arrivals looking to get a grasp of local cuisine have many options in varying price brackets. U Fukiera is definitely in the big

listings / restaurants spend category, but visitors come away with a common sense of wonderment. That’s largely due to enchanting interiors that have guests exploring twinkling chambers that unravel like a fairytale. Set in a 500 year old townhouse, the beautiful backdrop is accompanied by a grand menu of duck, venison, veal and lamb. $$$ Varso Vie (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 2, varso-vie.pl Despite the concrete color palette Varso Vie retains a good buzz. It helps that on one side guests are flanked by punchy bursts of modern art, and on the other, an open kitchen that’s all clamor, commotion and general rumpus.

The menu is modern Polish: duck stomachs in a flaky puff pastry with a thick smear of thyme sauce; Baltic trout served on a pinkish mush of red lentils and mint; and a coveted meringue mousse. $$

Zapiecek Locations inc. ul. Nowy Świat 64, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska 13, tel. 22 635 61 09, & ul. Wańkowicza 1, open 11:00-22:00, CH Arkadia, zapiecek. eu Seven Warsaw locales, with our favorite found in the vaulted passages of Świętojańska. The menu is highly traditional, with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’.

It’s for the pierogi though for which they’re famous; find approx. fifty types delivered by servers dressed like saucy country maids. $

Zielnik (D10) ul. Odyńca 15, tel. 22 844 3500, restauracjazielnik.pl A quiet Mokotów side street is the setting for this little secret. In it, flowers, lots of them, and a warming wood interior just right for winter. In summer, head instead to their glorious garden across the street in the park: adding a sophisticated twist to the holy grill, the skewered lamb is to die for. $$

steak houses Butchery & Wine (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 502 3118, butcheryandwine.pl The Sarf London-born Bertha oven has revolutionized the way steak

is cooked, retaining moisture in a way no-one thought possible. Expect robust pieces of animal full of big, brawny tastes, but there’s so much more than just meat: starters involve a sea bass ceviche that pings with citrusy flavor not to mention more-ish pork crackling that pop like fire bangers in the mouth. A place of energy and ambition, it’s a great mix of both new and classic. Bookings advised. $$ Hoża (D5) ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 603 778 275, hoza.warszawa.pl Wine and steak: it sounds so simple, but Hoża have taken two simple pleasures to another level. It’s a vibrant space with service right out of charm school, and a kitchen team with a real knowledge of cows. A red-blooded affair, the menu is a steak sensation and well paired with a handpicked wine list. $$ Merliniego 5 (E10) ul. Merliniego 5, tel. 22 646 0810, merliniego5.pl A classic looking steakhouse that swirls in shadow, brickwork and elegant touches, it’s a place to immerse yourself in an atmosphere that’s all surreptitious conversation and distant clinking glasses. The steaks are out-of-this world, with USDA prime beef from New York’s legendary Ottomanelli & Sons and Scottish beef from London’s Smithfield Market. Simply amazing. $$$

Salto (C6) ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8771, saltorestauracja.pl When Martin Gimenez Castro scooped top prize in the Top Chef program it simply confirmed what foodies had known for years: that this is a man of some talent. Now leading the kitchen in Salto, the highlight of Castro’s menu is undoubtedly the ‘steak weekends’.

We challenge you to find better. During the week opt instead for his South American inspired dishes. $$$ BEST WAWA 2015 “Foreign Chef”

thai Thai Thai (C2) Pl. Teatralny 3, tel. 601 818 283, thaithai.pl In terms of design it’s little short of perfect: gold vaulted interiors lend a muted glow to a largely black on black space while serene looking Buddha’s peer on the diners below.

As for the food, that’s one big success story

Traditional Polish cuisine Live music The best wine, regional beer and spirits Grand Kredens - 19 years full of tradition

Aleje Jerozolimskie 111 tel. +48 22 629 80 08 Mob. +48 697 900 000 kredens@kredens.com.pl www.kredens.com.pl Share your opinion www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / restaurants with plenty of lively flavors and vibrant colors.

The Tom Yang Kung, a deeply nourishing fish broth that awakens the senses with a sharp, spicy jolt, is a must! $$

Thaisty (C2) pl. Bankowy 4, tel. 730 000 024, thaisty.pl The coup here has been the recruitment of Chanunkan Duangkumma, Warsaw’s favorite Thai chef.

The menu has street food inspirations and also includes several recipes passed down Duangkumma’s family line: consider the BBQ beef skewers essential. Vivid colors and a busy open kitchen lend the place a happy buzz that lasts through the day. $$

Why Thai (E5) ul. Wiejska 13, tel. 22 625 7698, whythai.pl A calming, almost holistic interior sets the tone for a meal dominated by the rich and

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aromatic tastes of Thailand. For a snappy, spicy start begin with a mango and cashew salad, before moving forward and onto their celebrated curries. Imported chefs keep the flavors authentic, with the pad Thai something of a must. $

whole foods Edamame Vegan Sushi (D5) ul. Wilcza 11, edamame.pl Sushi without its star ingredient sounds ridiculous, but this vegan sushi joint manages to out-manoeuver its traditional competitors by replacing below-par fish with fresh, vegetarian produce: sugar snap peas, radish, carrots, asparagus, etc. The results are both magical and addictive, and leave you wondering if vegan sushi stands to be Warsaw’s next trend. $$ Krowazywa (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 27/35, tel. 881 777 894 ul. Hoża 29/31, krowarzywa.pl ul. Hoża

29/31, krowarzywa.pl Packed with girls wearing skating clothes and moon boots, this burgery makes a big boast that their whole menu is 100% plant-based and their food compiled using ‘the best, freshest, unprocessed and full-balanced ingredients.’

The Warzywex, a burger composed of marinated and grilled slices of local veg, is an absolute winner. $ Lokal Vegan Bistro (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, 517 615 122 Aside from a small menu consisting of more standard vegan offers, Lokal keep Homer Simpson characters in mind with regular guest slots for street food that’s given a full vegan makeover. Offhand, that’s meant vegan kebabs, cheesesteaks, burgers and zapiekanka, all of which have been nothing short of fabulous. $ Loving Hut (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 41A, tel. 888 555 568, lovinghut.waw.pl What looks like just another Vietnamese greasy spoon is, in fact, part of a global chain backed by a spiritual

listings / restaurants master. The reading material is creepy and cultish, but the vegan food is good if you’re that way inclined. Now also found downtown on Waryńskiego 3. $ Mango Vegan Street Food (D4) ul. Bracka 20 Everything vegan that you’d actually like to eat: veggie burgers, fries, falafel, soup, a fruit salad – here, obviously a mango salad. Especially recommended is the hummus with sun-dried tomatoes – a nice twist on a simple classic dish. $ Momencik (D5) ul. Poznańska 16 Vegan burritos may sound wrong, but at Momencik they’re every bit as good as anything you’ll be used to. The only difference is that you won’t leave feeling like you’ve eaten a sack of socks: on the contrary, it’s got all the perky flavour that Mexican food should have, but none of the unpleasant post-meal bloaty bubbles. And it’s cheap! $ Vegan Pizza (D5) ul. Poznańska 7 While the place lacks effort

on the design front (a plain room with local radio piped around), the pizza is pretty good. There’s 24 to pick from, and while it’s not love at first bite, there’s a tendency to get strangely hooked by the new tastes and alien sensations. Definitely an interesting departure from the high street pizzerias.

Recommended: Italian Madness – melty cheese and herby bursts of pesto. $ Vege Bistro ul. Kopernika 25, vegebistro.pl The clue is in the name. We dropped in for a vege burger and, using Krowarzywa as the benchmark, were left a little underwhelmed.

But a follow-up visit brought much better luck, with a peppery mushroom goulash doing its job of keeping chills at bay. The cakes, too, are a genuine pleasure. $$ Veg Deli (E3) ul. Radna 14 An entrance beset with candles, plant pots and seasonal veg charms people in, and they tend to stay on to dine on creative vegetarian options that nearly

always hit the spot. The tacos are a bit of a disappointment, but the quinoa burger is fabulous, and the homemade Russian pierogi an absolute highlight. Even committed meat eaters recognize there’s something special going on here. $$ Vurst (G3) ul. Finlandzka 12A Who in their right mind opens a tiny, little joint in the back streets of Saska and then fills the interior with a life size Darth Vader and a board that asks customers to: “Stay Tuned and Praise Our Lord Satan”? Specializing in vegan hot dogs, the dawgs themselves are small and soggy: the kind of damp disappointment you buy at the gas station. $ Youmiko Vegan Sushi (D5) ul. Hoża 62 Youmiko enter Warsaw’s vegan sushi market hot on the heels of Edamame on Wilcza nearby. There’s definitely more of a hipster, ‘urban guerrilla’ feel to Youmiko, but the sushi is every bit a success. Often better than ‘the real thing’. $

www.focaccia.pl tel.: +48 22 829 69 69, ul. Senatorska 13/15, Warsaw/Old Town restauracja@focaccia.pl, fb.com/restauracjafocaccia

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cafes & wine bars NEW & NOTABLE

FRANKIE’S (ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, frankies.pl) Find Frankie’s hiding in the corner of the former Communist party HQ. Part of a wider chain spread out across Poland, this ‘lifestyle café’ promotes healthy living with its specialized line in salads and fruity smoothies. Perhaps it feels a little mass market and commercial, but the appeal lies in solid and consistent quality, not to mention prices that are kept distinctly lower than the more ‘boutique’ juice bars of Saska and Powiśle.

bakeries Aromat (C4) ul. Sienna 39 We’re told the interiors were purposefully kept neutral to keep the focus on the product – and crikey, what bread.

French flour and an expert baker ensure brilliant results, while the lemon éclairs deserve their own Facebook page. Some claim it’s the best bakery in Poland, and we’re not arguing.

Rozbrat 20 Bakery & Wine Corner (F5) ul. Rozbrat 20, rozbrat20.com.pl Best known for fathering Butchery & Wine, Daniel Pawełek makes his mark on Powiśle with the launch of Rozbrat 20, a high-end bakery that many are already calling the best in Warsaw. Aside from baguettes, muffins, croissants, etc. this smart corner unit has a superb wine list and a smattering of main courses that include flat iron steak.

SAM (E3) ul. Lipowa 7, sam.info.pl A central, communal table is flanked by smaller satellite tables for parties of two to four while perky seasonal blooms and potted herbs lend a spark of freshness. Co-owner Małgorzata KusinaDoran is a fine-bread connoisseur, honing her skills at a bread-making course chaired by Raymond Blanc.

Zdrowa Konkurencja (C2) Pl. Bankowy 4, zdrowakonkurencja.pl It’s taken a while, but slowly Pl. Bankowy is being turned into a place you don’t just rush through on the way back from work. Aside from piping hot, fresh wheels of bread, visitors are popping in to collect readymade bagels and sandwiches loaded with pulled pork, pastrami and other such bites.

PRZYSTANEK POWIŚLE (ul. Browarna 6) Of the many things to like about Przystanek, it’s probably the desserts that swing it: homemade cakes and flans that cause all life to pause. Perfectly poised overlooking Park Kazimierzowski, the summer terrace is a popular spot from which to explore their small range of niche beers and wine. Outside of night time hours, many sing the praises of their creative range of tapas and snacks.

cafés Bułkę przez Bibułkę (E8) ul. Puławska 24 & ul. Zgoda 3, tel. 794 000 634, bulkeprzezbibulke.pl There’s a feminine style to this cafe, what with its cute, girly pastels, petite plant pots and woodsy finishes. But no matter what your gender or www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / cafés & wine bars age, there’s something immediately sunny and positive about this place. Slow food sandwiches arrive on wooden boards, there’s pretty homemade desserts and a careful choice of wine: falling in love with it is easy.

Być Może (E7) ul. Bagatela 14, tel. 519 000 014, bycmoze. com.pl It’s all about artisan bread and breakfast in the industrial looking Być Może. It’s taken the concept of Charlotte (groan, there’s even a communal table), and improved it with excellent breads and a crowd that’s a little less pleased with itself and a little more normal.

Chłodna 25 (B3) ul. Chłodna 25 Maybe resurrecting a legend wasn’t such a good idea after all. People once traveled from all across Warsaw to meet here, but after several closures, noise clampdowns and a change in management it’s a mere shadow of what it once was.

Shame. A place of creaking floorboards and retro armchairs, it just needs people to stir it into life.

Cophi (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60 Deviating away from ‘the Warsaw look’ (i.e. concrete, pipes, etc.), Cophi is the kind of place you actually want to stay in: homey and intimate but at the same time light and modern. You can sense the thought and passion behind this operation from the staff – find them using Aeropress, Chemex, siphon and drip

methods with almost scientific precision in their quest to serve you what some are already claiming to be Warsaw’s best coffee.

Cukiernia Stary Dom ul. Puławska 104/106, restauracjastarydom. pl A beautifully elegant confectionary that evokes memories of Old Poland. Flock wallpaper and checkered floors add to the high tea ambience, as do the lines of glinting bottles and a counter stocked with temptations. Pastry chef Mariusz Palarczykow is a king in his field.

Deseo ul. Angorska 27, deseopatisserie.com Conducting operations from a glassed-off laboratory at Deseo’s mothership in Saska Kępa, watching pastry chef Piotr Chylarecki at work is to witness a mix of magic and science: you’re not sure which. Calculated precision and intricate methods collide with passion and understanding for the products at hand, themselves sourced from afar afield as Madagascar and the Dominican Republic.

The denouement is a selection of pralines and cakes that cause you to stop and stare at these intricate baubles.

Kos (D4) ul. Chmielna 9A Kos is a place intent on stitching the neighborhood together. That much is made clear by a diverse events calendar that features a panoply of activities: yoga courses to weekend brunches via the occasional kid’s improvisation class. As

Chmielna 9a 513 422 908

Find It… Kos – Chmielna’s Best Kept Secret

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commendable as these social actions are, it’s the basics that Kos do so well. Drenched in natural sunlight, perch on the windowsill and enjoy swift wifi, award-winning coffee and a menu of homemade snacks and bits. Find it inside the Jewish Community Center.

Kosmos (C4) Pl. Grzybowski 2 It’s all coming together nicely for Pl. Grzybwoski, and the opening of places like Kosmos is only good news. It’s relatively small floorplan swings in its favor, with this café’s natural intimacy working well with a design that features mismatched furnishings, a bouncy sofa, a mirrored wall and a timberclad bar. Grab a bagel (possibly the best Warsaw’s seen?), order coffee and then fix yourself on the views of the square glistening under the summer sky.

Między Nami (D4) ul. Bracka 20, miedzynamicafe.com With 18 years of service under their belt you may think of Między Nami as being an antiquated has-been. Not so. Haunted by a mix of media types and local characters, this hip white piece of post-commie Warsaw has an enduring, almost timeless appeal.

Ministerstwo Kawy (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 27, ministerstwokawy.pl Sourcing their coffee from Koppi, an internationally acclaimed Swedish roasting house, the ministry takes no short cuts in their pursuit of excellence. Utilizing Ethiopian, Costa Rican and Brazilian arabicas – some exclusive to Poland – barista Wojciech Rzytki has earned a reputation across Poland for his expert hand. Rave reviews are standard and appropriate in this standout cafe.

Monsieur Leon (E8) ul. Sulkiewicza 5 Found resting on the corner of a quiet residential street, Monsieur Leon is surely one of Mokotów’s best kept secrets.

Here, simplicity is the name of the game, with a brief blackboard menu that involves cheese boards, salads and a hefty croque monsieur.

With wine tipping down and conversation wafting around this compact, casual space, it doesn’t take a giant leap of imagination to think yourself in France.

Państwo Miasto (B1) ul. Andersa 29, panstwomiasto.pl Is there anything better than sitting in a café, book in

listings / cafés & wine bars hand, while autumn sunshine pours through the windows? We go to Państwo to do just that, an echoy, cavernous café with a young, lively crowd that’s keen on scholastic events and political causes. Never does it feel too trendy, or too hipster – it’s a place that’s all about atmosphere and friendship.

Relaks (E9) ul. Puławska 48 Generally travelling by tram for a cup of Joe sounds excessive, but that’s exactly what you’ll be doing on discovering Relaks. Expertly prepared, right down to the foam art, the baristas here use the finest imported machines and work only with fair trade, ‘specialty’ coffee. If you have time, the drip coffees are more than worth the wait.

The interiors supply a retro accent, and are lapped up by a very fashion aware crowd.

ice Furoszron (D5) ul. Krucza 41/43, furoszron.pl Fabulous shaved ice drinks served through a hole-ina-wall. Look out for the Mango Love.

La Maison (B3) ul. Chłodna 15 The pedestrian choice of flavors mark this out as one for the traditionalists, nonetheless, the quality is exceptional. Must try: pink grapefruit.

Limoni Canteri 1952 Various locations, see: lodziarnielimoni.pl

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Traditional gelato matched against oddities such as cucumber, beer and, even, ice cream for your dog!

Sucre Various locations, see: sucre.pl Others get the headlines for their gimmicky flavors, Sucre prefer to keep it simple. That works in their favor: there’s no better natural ice cream in Warsaw.

wine bars Ale Wino! (E5) ul. Mokotowska 48, alewino.pl At first you think you’re walking into a car park. And then, it hits you – a beautiful inner-city sanctum with wooden decking, a slanted sail shielding the sun, and bespoke, funky chairs from the esteemed Studio Rygalik. You want to dwell here for a bit longer than planned: and there’s no harm in doing so. One of the Insider’s favorite wine bars, Ale Wino’s food is also top-notch

Dekant Wine Bar (E3) ul. Zajęcza 15, dekant.com.pl Expectations are high: even before they opened Wine Spectator magazine bequeathed Dekant with an ‘Award of Excellence’. Just what’s the buzz about? Primarily a wine choice that is set to

eventually extend beyond 500 wines.

Enoteka (D1) Rynek Nowego Miasta 13/15, enotekapolska. pl It’s the wine bar New Town has been waiting for ever since… the old Enoteka closed. The eagerly awaited return brings with it a new location – right on the corner of New Town Square – and a menu

by Paweł Męziński: yep, the same guy who made their kitchen great back when it all first began in 2009. Add a handpicked wine list from some of the top producers in the world and you have a place that’s definitely one to watch for.

Hoża (D5) ul. Hoża 25a, hoza.warszawa.pl You’ll probably know Hoża as the home of steak. But what is meat without wine? complementing the Argentine-inspired cooking is a wine list particularly dense with reds.

Mielżyński Wine Bar (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7 & ul. Czerska 12, mielzynski.pl Robert Mielżyński, a Canadianborn oenologist, awakened Warsaw’s love affair with the grape when he launched Mielżyński in 2004, and it continues to serve as the accepted benchmark to which all wine bars aspire. Their cause is amply boosted by a fine selection of bites to accompany the superlative wine offer. Find it in a pared down warehouse that emanates casual city cool.

The award-winning Enoteka Polska is back, this time with a new location in the heart of Warsaw’s historic New Town.

A perfect combo of restaurant, wine bar and wine store, aside from offering excellent Italian cuisine, we are a renowned importer with a portfolio of prestigious wine labels from across Europe. Our direct import policy allows guests to enjoy outstanding value for money.

Rynek Nowego

Miasta 13/15, enotekapolska.pl

tel. 882 048 012

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nightlife NEW & NOTABLE

BIAŁA (ul. Francuska 2) If anything though, 2016 has been defined by quality, not quantity, a point underlined by the launch of Biała – occupying the garden of a stunning inter-war villa, this project has been masterminded by Grupa Warszawa, the team behind such successes as Syreni Śpiew, Weles and Zorza. As such, expect highly individualized cocktails, a thoughtful menu and a glam, vamped up crowd every bit as beautiful as the place itself – currently outdoors only, we’re promised the interiors should be ready for autumn.

PIĘTRO NIŻEJ (ul. Zielna 39) There are some who classify this as a restaurant, but who are they trying to fool. Having amassed a collection of over 100 beers, this blue basement serves as a pub first and foremost, with much of the boozy roster given over to a line of fridges filled with cracking drinks from new generation Polish breweries. The trump card is a generous seasonal courtyard patio furnished with repurposed warehouse palettes.

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bars & pubs 6 Cocktails (E5) ul. Mokotowska 57 Taking its lead from the New York fad for covert bars, the 6 adventure begins in front of a heavy arched gate. Ring the bell, await the buzz of approval and then find yourself summoned into rambling apartment that feels sultry and sensual.

Complete with a shadowy smoking lounge and a whirlpool tub in the bathroom, it’s the best secret in Warsaw. To enjoy the bespoke cocktails yourself, message them on Facebook and await your invite…

Afera Na Szpitalnej ul. Szpitalna 3 Resplendent with white brick walls and good-humored murals, in terms of style Afera seems more sanitized than Warsaw’s other shot bars. But is it actually more sane? No chance! When the clubs have closed top-up your alcohol levels by necking little shots of horror from one of the most complete vodka menus in town. Build up your resistance to the booze that follows with solid portions of traditional Polish food.

Bar & Books (D2) ul. Wąski Dunaj 20, barandbooks.pl Seen through a thin winter mist, this white townhouse radiates warmth: lights glimmer, piano music tinkles. Wood-paneled and lined with leather-bound tomes, there’s a sense of dignity that’s unique to Warsaw’s cocktail scene. There’s humor, as well, courtesy of portraits of chimps togged out like 18th century gentry. Similar to a members’ only Mayfair bar, find ‘classic with a twist’ cocktails mixed and muddled by the sort of charming bartenders you’d trust serving Bond.

Bar Warszawa (D2) ul. Miodowa 2, barwarszawa.pl Thick with alcoholic fumes and the sound of drunken tantrums, Bar Warszawa excels in its role as a late night dive bar. Split on two levels, upstairs is where most head to flop around a retro lounge interior filled with nostalgic decorations that tempt kleptomaniacs. The cut price shots and pints do their bit in facilitating slurred conversations with a variety of strangers. Not surprisingly, evenings often extend beyond the advertised closing time of 4 a.m.

listings / nightlife Bar Wieczorny (D8) ul. Wiśniowa 46, barwieczorny.pl Preparing for their first summer, it’s going to be one helluva’ place to visit once the weather heats up: that garden is going to get naughty!

The cocktails are serious here, with top quality spirits (Vestal, Baczewski, Woodford Reserve) used with equally big name mixes (Fentimans, Big Tom, etc.). Further, you’ll find it’s the right products in the right hands – the staff really know their game.

Beirut (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, beirut.com.pl As hip as ever, Beirut has walls dusted with cult album covers, documentary posters and witty graffiti inspired by Banksy. Busy in the day, and absolutely packed at night, order unconventional beers (Noteckie, English ale, Erdinger) from androgynous staff standing behind a sandbag bar decorated with silver hand grenades and a model tank.

Bollywood Lounge (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, bollywoodlounge.pl Now on Nowy Świat, the team have used the opportunity to upgrade their offer: gone is that low-rent feel of old, replaced in favor of a more classy look and a slicker crowd.

What has remained constant is the energy.

Ace cocktails (recommended: Jim Ban Chili), tottering talent and a range of sheesha pipes make it a weekend must, though the big news is the completion of their downstairs club: check it out for the bright, banging beats of the Bollywood sound.

Chmielarnia (B5) ul. Twarda 42 (basement level), chmielarnia. waw.pl A subterranean multi-tap found in the depths of the fishing institute. Artisan beers rule the roost here (there’s 15 taps and stacks more beer in the fridge), a point underlined by a glass coffin of mainstream macro lager.

While the bar gets loud and rackety, sweaty and sticky, that’s balanced out by a rotating beer offer that’s moderately priced plus a friendly, earnest audience that’s all beer geeks and know-it-alls.

Cześć (C3) ul. Grzybowska 2, czesc.waw.pl Cześć is better known as being at the forefront of the new generation of ‘quali-tap’ bars – small little places with six or so new wave beers on tap. The two owners, Piot and Kuba, take their beer seriously, so do expect plenty of new finds as well as traditional favorites from stalwarts like the Artezan and Pinta breweries. The laidback, neighborhood atmosphere is making it increasingly popular with a tight-knit circle of ex-pat drinkers.

Chmielarnia Marszałkowska (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16, chmielarnia.waw.pl With Warsaw’s tap bars all falling over each other to stock the latest tap beers, your options are frequently similar from bar to bar – which is when a good fridge becomes important. Not only can you actually see into Chmielarnia’s, you’ll find it housing the most exciting brews trending around the globe: from the edgy Bermondsey breweries to the Scandinavian giants. Broaden your horizons!

Dom Wódki (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl Those expecting Dom Wódki to be a standard mucky shot bar are in for a surprise. Sparkling with over 250 artisanal vodkas, find them incorporated into inspirational drinks mixed

by Tomasz Małek, a world champion flair bartender. More than just show, the tastes are incredible.

Cuda Na Kiju (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, cudanakiju.pl Where it all began. Summer catches Warsaw’s original tap bar at its best, with the courtyard of the former Communist Party HQ now home to an entirely different kind of party: on occasions find food trucks and film screenings, and all other times just a massive crowd getting sloshed on 15 types of tap beer.

Fokim (D5) ul. Krucza 24/26 To like is an edgy interior that includes a neon that urges customers to ‘eat, drink, dance, riot’ and an Asian-inspired drinks list that features sake on-tap, shots with names like Karate Kid, and cocktails with proper verve: e.g., the Marry Me, a bonkers, bastardized version of the Bloody Mary that’s actually better than the real thing.

Hard Rock Cafe (C5) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), hardrockcafe.pl

BrewDog Warszawa (D4) ul. Widok 8 First things first: BrewDog’s beers begin at zł. 17. On learning this there are some who scatter, others who scoff, but the let’s get the facts straight – you’re unlikely to find a cheaper pint of BrewDog in the world!

Hailed as one of the top artisan breweries on the planet, quality is the name of the game here: this is a place where the interiors rock and the beers go BOSH. No pub will do a better job this year.

Ceska (D4) ul. Chmielna 35, ceska.pl Having promised to never return following an incident with a nincompoop waiter, we’ve done exactly the opposite… and become regulars! Views of scantily-clad shoppers wiggling down the street are one attraction, though the biggest is the Czech ‘tank’ pouring system. Order the mliko, a beer that’s all creamy froth that you can sink down in seconds.

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listings / nightlife Full Throttle cocktails, lively staff and a classic rock soundtrack: the energy of HRC is hard to find fault with. And on the rare occasion there is a lull in the night, use the opportunity to sniff around memorabilia that includes a black leather number once worn by Madonna.

Heritage Birreria Artigianale (E3) ul. Tamka 9 A new twist on the multi-tap concept, Heritage’s hook is their obsession with Italian and British gypsy breweries. Eyes naturally fall on ten taps dispensing beers from Thornbridge, San Gabriel, Birrificio Milano, etc., and while the drawn-out pouring

time can frustrate, most agree that the drinks are worth the wait. Find a well-presented middle-aged crowd squashed inside a tiny little unit that’s often full to capacity.

Hoppiness (D4) ul. Chmielna 27/31 You’re in good hands here – opened under the patronage of the Pracownia brewery, this small-scale operation goes beyond merely offering the beers of its sponsor. There’s 12 taps in all, a decent fridge to geek over, an ace burger and beer-based ice cream – hooray!

Jabeerwocky (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 12, taproom.pl Even in an area bulging with bars, Jabeerwocky has become a point of pilgrimage for beer aficionados. If the creative line-up of guerrilla breweries wasn’t enough, then there’s the management’s readiness to roll their sleeves up and even brew their own beer. Add to that an atmosphere of general hubbub (and more than two toilets!) and you have our favorite tap bar of all time!

Karowa 31 (D3) ul. Karowa 31, warsawbarproject.com Warsaw’s original speakeasy grants access via a retractable door disguised as a VHS collection – how cool is that!? Maze-like in layout, the retro-looking Karowa 31 unravels to reveal a series of chambers concealed in shadow, though for all that the cocktails are the real draw: masterful creations composed

by Bram, the former manager of the London Cocktail Club.

Kufle i Kapsle (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 25, kufleikapsle.pl All levels of drinkers are catered for in this raw-looking space, from those ready to pay nosebleed prices for beers with spaceships on the label, right the way down to novices taking their first baby steps in the world of craft booze. Interiors are balanced with the pre-war heritage of the place, and are thick with noise, clamor and the spell of spillage.

Unisex toilets, meaning there’s usually one idiotka putting a spanner in the queue code.

10% discount*

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Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri 11:0002:00; Sat 12:00-02:00, Sun 12:00-23:00, legendsbar.pl Legends is slowly achieving legendary status amongst the expats and Anglophiles. Their cause is helped by touches like a segregated smoking room, proper darts

board, Sky Sports and a traditional menu that’s as authentically English as the Downing Street cat. Most of all though, the success is down to the sense of community fostered over long quiz nights, shouty karaoke competitions and Presiding over it all is Graham, a seasoned expat and Everton nut.

Lolek (A8) ul. Rokitnicka 20 (Pole Mokotowskie), lolekpub.pl A boisterous pub with a Bavarian, bacchanal spirit and a park-centered location. Strangers squish together on shaky benches while sausages grill over an open fire inside this classic rough-and-ready drinkery. Catch it at its best in summer when the outdoor seating is thronged.

Między Ustami (D6) ul. Mokotowska 33/35 With the celebrated Hendrick’s gin so prominently pimped, it makes sense that the quirky design of Między Ustami is more in line with a Victorian apothecary than anything else. Peculiarities particular to this era are abundant (nonsensical wall paintings featuring fairies and fantastical creatures) and are matched against deep forest colors and copious wood and leather. It’s Lewis Carrol meets Phileas Fogg, with suitably creative cocktails to boot.

Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’ (D4) Enter from ul. Nowy Świat 26 Approximately twenty bars occupy a series of low-budget prefabricated cabins, presenting possibly the highest density of bars in the capital: in summer, it feels like one big street party.

Adding to the gentle sense of confusion comes the realization that so many bars look the same – accessed through clattery, barred doors, visitors walk into what can only be described as murk. Klaps, with its dildo beer taps and phallic walls, is probably the most well-known of the lot.

Oleandrów 3 (D6) ul. Oleandrów 3 Exploring themes of decadence and fallen splendor, this new opening cements Oleandrów’s status as one of Warsaw’s rising streets. Looking dark and disheveled, this busy nightspot is already earning a name for libertine shenanigans.

The blackboard menu touts an unlikely combo of ‘hot dogs and champagne’ – watch others follow suit.

Palmier (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12 Here, class and high times are in abundance inside an interior that’s all

listings / nightlife cool stone and pot palms. But it’s the narrow terrace that promises to be the place to be seen: join and enjoy the ‘Warsaw scene’ alongside a crowd that’s been compared to a Ralph Lauren billboard. The authors cocktails are fantastic.

Pardon To Tu (C4) Pl. Grzybowski 12/16, pardontotu.pl Decorated in voluptuous brothel colors, the design involves mismatched seats, tilted lampshades and a relaxed arthouse look popular with creatives and other fringe dwellers. The live talent ranges from moody quartets to jazzy chanteuses, while a perfect marriage of late hours and great bottled beers helps along the enthusiastic crowd of latter day beatniks.

Plan B (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), planb.pl Plan B is the very essence of dive Warsaw.

Weekends pass by in a raucous blur, with the party spilling out under the colonnades outside – it helps to look like a DJ, but in truth everyone is welcome. The hangover from this shabby, grubby bar is traumatic.

Pyk i Łyk (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 26 Thundering through a flimsy door, customers are met by a tiny, divey area that’s devoid of furnishings aside from shelves of vodka and a bar that’s been painted to depict dripping blood. Yikes!

Decorated with bizarre montages of hard drinking rockers, once visitors settle into their vodka rhythm, it reveals itself as a bar of greatness. “No wi-fi,” shouts one sign, “talk to each other and get drunk.” It’s that kind of place.

Stixx (A4) Pl. Europejski 4A, tel. 22 340 4040, stixx.pl It takes a moment to allow the sheer magnitude of Stixx sink in. Having adjusted to the wow factor of the interior – which can best be described as cosmopolitan-industrial – most retreat to the long, all-weather deck which in itself is quite something: the aesthetics are such that a cocktail party on an oligarch’s yacht comes to mind. There aren’t many better places for a drink when the roof is rolled back and the stars twinkle down.

Syreni Śpiew (F5) ul. Szara 10A, syrenispiew.pl Set in a beautifully restored piece of PRL concrete, Syreni Śpiew’s lasting popularity has proved the doubters wrong. This is not some one

season wonder, rather a place that has gone from strength to strength. Primarily known for its hefty whisky offer (which is divided into regions of Scotland, Ireland and Japan), the cocktails also stand up to scrutiny on account of their consistent quality. A genuinely unique drinking experience with cool elements of retro chic.

Temat Rzeka (H5) Under Poniatowskiego Bridge When it first opened in 2013, nowhere else in Europe had more internet check-ins. While there’s a suspicion that this summer will see a power shift to the beach bars on the left of the Wisła, Temat Rzeka continues to draw a crowd of hundreds – sometimes even more.

Based around a white, wooden bar, most drinkers spread themselves onto the sands outside once the beers are scored, giving a night out here the feeling of a giant beach party. A busy calendar of events features everything from DJ acts to craft fairs to volleyball competitions.

The View (C4) ul. Twarda 18, theview.pl Sat on top of the Spektrum Tower this bar/club looks set to reinvent the whole concept of going out in Warsaw. A truly world-class venture, the open-air deck on the 32nd floor offers striking views of the cityscape, first rate cocktails and an international rotation of DJs. The look is sleek and stylish.

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W Oparach Absurdu (F1) ul. Ząbkowska 6 Hidden under Persian rugs, velvety drapes and reclaimed antiques, some still refer to it as The Spider Bar in reference to the giant tarantula that once hung from the wall. There’s an air of louche 60s living here, and it gets weirder when bands with names like the Bum Bum Orchestra enter to play trumpets amongst vodka-tipping guests.

Warszawa Powiśle (E4) ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B, warszawapowisle.pl The prime months for this former ticket booth arrive each summer when the deckchairs outside provide ample opportunity for the city’s young and fashionable to gather in an almost carnival-like atmosphere. Seen as a hipster Center of Power, you’ll know if you belong.

Weles (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 11 A swing of the door takes visitors plunging down a blacked-out stairwell and into a basement that emerges

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listings / nightlife from the darkness like a decadent Tsarist relic: glinting chandeliers glimmer over deep leather sofas, their subtle light casting a glow over an immaculate clientele. Befitting the venue, the artisanal cocktails are a work of elaborate craftsmanship, and incorporate everything from elite liquors to strips of bacon and flower petals.

Woda Ognista (E5) ul. Wilcza 8 Woda Ognista evokes the jazzy air of a Chicago, Prohibition era speakeasy with a seriously stylish interior that includes a colossal collection of vintage cocktail shakers that glint behind glass. The drinks themselves, rattled up by dapper gents in braces and flat caps, are split between house creations and reprised classics from a bygone era.

Zorza (D4) ul. Żurawia 6/12, zorzabistro.pl Zorza embellishes the venue’s ascetic PRL style with licks of art deco: it’s an unlikely marriage that manages to work. But with even the sun sweating this summer, do your pecking, picking, sipping and supping on an outdoor terrace set-up that encourages mingling and interaction.

clubs Bal (F5) ul. Nowogrodzka 31, niechzyjebal.pl If you thought Nowogrodzka was just about grungy

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craft beer dens then think again. Proving you wrong is Bal, a club that draws a pleasureseeking party crew of waifish, wasted model-types and assorted hangers-on. Find them twerking away under one of the most interesting lighting arrangements in the city.

Capitol Theatre and Club (C3) ul. Marszałkowska 115, clubcapitol.pl An extravagant dance space with sparkly chandeliers, regal staircases and a modern Moscow, over-the-top style. Mark the Hed Kandi events in your diary for a night to remember.

Eufemia (D3) Krakowskie Przedmieście 5, klubojadalniaeufemia.blogspot.com Eufemia unwraps into a series of side rooms furbished with VHS tapes, student artwork and furniture looted from your grandparents dining room.

The claustrophobic atmosphere lends itself well to intimate gigs that see everything from improvised instrumentals to bands called Graveyard Drug Party.

Hydrozagadka ul. 11 Listopada 22, hydrozagadka.waw.pl Set out in the wildlands of Praga, consider Hydrozagadka as the heart of unforced cool.

Known for its alternative music scene, the low-ceiling and tight, crowded nature of it generate an electrifying atmosphere where the audience and band become one. Walking a fine line between industrial and straight out decrepit, the atmosphere is second to none: drinks flow, strangers meet and music

smashes out: you can feel something special happening here.

Luztro (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, luztro.pl Feeling naughty?

Luztro enjoys a reputation for libertine behavior and illicit pharmaceuticals. Dark, grim and grotty, this after party stalwart gets going at about 4 a.m. on weekends, when troglodyte club creatures emerge zombie-like to dance way past sunrise. Jaw grinding, rib rattling electro has never felt better.

Platinium (D3) ul. Fredry 6, platiniumclub.pl The place if you’re rich or beautiful – but preferably both.

Large and spectacular you’ll need to be dressed to the nines to reap the rewards that lie inside: featuring the most eye candy per sq/m in Europe, you might not find Mr/Mrs Right, but you will find Mr/Mrs Right for Now.

gentleman’s clubs Playhouse (B3) Al. Solidarności 82A, playhouse.pl Not here gorilla gangsters on the door or pushy girls doing the rounds. Instead, Playhouse models itself on the top class mega clubs such as Spearmint Rhino, and the result is a subterranean space removed from the sleaze and murk usually associated with the industry.

But you want to know what the girls are like, yeah? Let the fact askmen.com voted it their favorite strip in the world speak for itself.

shopping accessories Agent Provocateur ul. Mokotowska 59, tel. 22 273 6162, agentprovocateur.com The boutique is stocked full of the latest collection – gorgeous lacy bras with scrumptious attention to detail, matching panties, teddies and a bunch of strappy get-ups you can only get away with if you’re very fit or very confident, but preferably both.

And if that’s not enough, they’ve got sexy stockings, silk robes, perfume, satin gloves, a blindfold and nipple tassels…

CONCEPT STORES DESIGNERS PLACE (ul. Kazachska 1) Located in one of the most popular districts of Wilanów, Designers Place blends the concept of an art gallery with a fashion boutique. Devoted to art, photography, fashion and accessories, customers can choose from multiple top quality brands.

LOLLY POP BUTIK (pictured) (Al. 3 Maja 14) A must-visit for every shoe addict. Lolly Pop Butik presents brands like See by Chloe, Vivienne Westwood, Melissa Jeremy Scott, Calvin Klein and Kids on the Moon. Fashion connoisseurs will definitely appreciate the ambient simplicity of the interior design.

PTASIA 6 (ul. Ptasia 6) Founded in 2014, Butik Ptasia is a perfect glimpse into the Polish fashion scene. Teeming with original pieces, choose from over 900 fashion items. A convenient location just down the road from Pl. Bankowy and a quirky approach to fashion make Ptasia 6 one of the most popular fashion temples in Warsaw. Find over 30 Polish designers, inc. Confashion by Kinga Król, the House of Fluff and Szyjemy Sukienki.

SEN NOCY LETNIEJ (ul. Oleandrów 5) A gallery of scents that bring to life 19th century Parisian boheme and the charm of the Orient and juxtapose it against rigorous Protestant-inspired interiors. Certainly worth a quick look around if you’re looking for a sophisticated gift or just want to smell good.

VITKAC (ul. Bracka 9) More demanding customers will love this multi-brand beehive. Nestled in the heart of the center, Vitkac brings together luxury brands such as Gucci, Marni, Louis Vuitton, etc. The spirit of the building’s owners is present in the form of the Likus Concept Store, a boutique that features selected fashion brands that will thrill fans of quality.

Anacomito tel. 515 634 010, anacomito.com Luxuriouslooking waist bags make for fashion that’s both modern and logical. More so, it makes the outsized bags of yesteryear increasingly redundant. Either order online, or look out for their presence at Warsaw’s various urban markets.

BeautyLab Polska beautylablondon.pro Rated as one of the biggest names in global cosmetics, the range of treatments run from anti-ageing to daily body care and essential skin care.

Calvin Klein ul. Mysia 3 Poland’s first Calvin Klein concept store is dedicated to watches, jewelry and assorted beautiful shiny things that everyone covets.

Chiara (Saska Kępa) Promenada Shopping Centre, ul. Ostrobramska 75C, chiara-online.pl You’d never expect it but this chic little shop stocks the best shoes and bags in the city – stock up on the latest collections from Michael Kors, Celine, Stuart Weitzman, Ralph Lauren and Mulberry. di Trevi Boutique Piękna 11A, ditrevi.pl Aimed at both him and her, di Trevi present the freshest Italian footwear releases from prestigious brands such as Ballin and Loriblu. Handbags are also available inside a chic interior that exudes luxury.

Glamstore ul. Narbutta 83 (entry from ul. Łowicka) www.warsawinsider.pl

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fashion pages Young married couple from Łowicz as impersonated by Boczki Chełmińskie

A FEAST OF COLOR

With the traditional wedding season upon us this August, we take a look at the evolving nature of the Polish wedding style… By Małgorzata Krakowska Polish weddings have always been festive and sumptuous. Traditional weddings could sometimes last dozens of days, and were seen as marking the transition from youth to mature community life. This transition is symbolized by Polish wedding costumes and customs.

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“In Polish tradition, weddings are always a big celebration,” says Justyna Laskowska-Otwinowska, curator of the State Ethnographic Museum in Warsaw.

Sat inside the museum’s auditorium, my intention is to learn more about Polish wedding traditions.

“Veils and white dresses weren’t always a part of Polish wedding tradition”, adds Klara Sielicka.

White was seen as just another colorful element of the traditional wedding costume. Justyna explains that peasants associated white with Christ’s shroud and for this reason the wedding garments of old were never white or Western-looking.

The costumes date back to 19th century. “Before 1863 [note: the year The Emancipation Edict of Peasants was decreed by Tsar Alexander I], they were relatively modest.”

After the peasants were freed from pańszczyzna [note: feudal duty], their dress became more lavish and colouful. For women, the wedding costume featured vibrant skirts, white blouses and the most extravagant element: the headdress.

“The wedding look differed, depending on the region and era.

In Łowicz, women wore extremely decorative headdress during the ceremony,” Klara Sielicka tells me.

The making of such a headdress required a lot of work that saw all family members and neighbors participating. “It was a community event,” adds Klara.

In Silesia, meanwhile, women grew myrtle that was made into flowery wreaths embroidered with green silk ribbons and wore by young bride at the wedding. “Brides also used to make a myrtle brooch for the groom, and hook it to his wed ding suit,” adds Justyna.

PHOTOGRAPHS: THIS PAGE, KAMIL KOBYŁECKI; FACING PAGE JÓZEF BURSZTA.

WEDDING COSTUME

fashion pages

YOU’RE A WOMAN NOW One of the more traditional moments of the ceremony is known as the oczepiny – the removal of the bridal veil. “Taking place at midnight, the custom of oczepiny was the highlight of the event,” says Justyna. “It was a very emotional moment and it symbolized a very real moment of transition for the young bride: she moved away from her family home and into the life of a newlywed.” The details of the ceremony differed from region to region.

“In eastern parts of Poland, women’s hair was cut, while others featured a very symbolic unbraiding of bride’s hair”. Taking the floral coronet off was a ritual that involved other women from the community and, afterwards, the young bride received her first marital coif. The ceremony was accompanied by dirges that were sung by the bride’s sisters and girlfriends, after all, getting married was not always a happy moment for the bride: it was a farewell to youth…

Above: a wedding in the Wielkopolska region, 1969; below, portrait of a young bride, painted at the beginning of the 20th century.

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fashion pages

WHAT TO WEAR Polish wedding fashion is the very epitome of the over-the-top style.

Don’t be like that! Whether you’re in the countryside or some city dancehall, we’ve got you covered. Insider tip: play with simplicity and kitsch for the ultimate glamourous effect.

Clockwise from top left: bracelet & earrings from bursztynek.pl, zł. 630 & zł. 430; floral dress by SANS from showroom.pl, zł. 760; nude heels

by Ballin from ditrevi.pl, zł. 959; sunglasses by Geppetto from weargepetto.pl, zł. 299; wool suit

by Ceran, from m-ceran.pl, zł. 1,190; cufflinks by Reykjavik District from showroom.pl, zł. 179; tie

by Reykjavik District from showroom.pl, zł. 179; silk handkerchief by Ceran from m-ceran.pl, zł. 65; clutch by Ballin from ditrevi.pl, zł. 1,862.

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fashion pages

WHAT TO GIVE Forget about dull and boring kitchen sets! Set trends with these sleek, artful and practical wedding gifts for the newlyweds and win the attention of the bride and groom in the process!

Clockwise from below: picnic hamper by Home&You from home-you.com, zł. 179; Agonist Parfums by Sen Nocy Letniej Concept Store (see Shopping section for details), zł. 550; bed sheets by Home&You from home-you.com, zł. 149-179; Saeco Incanto Coffee Machine by Philips from philips.pl, zł. 139; his & her toothbrushes by Philips from philips.pl, zł. 929 each; dressing table by Minko from minko.co, zł. 599.

www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / shopping Widely hailed by Poland’s fashion glossies, this store sells modern furnishings with all the trimmings and colours you could ask for. They also stock kitchen and bathroom accessories, as well as touting their own jewelery line.

using the finest Baltic amber. Or for a unique gift, how about an amber chess set or an amber cigarette lighter?

Hard Rock Cafe ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), hardrockcafe.pl No wardrobe is complete without the iconic Hard Rock t-shirt! Find the Warsaw-stamped version available here, along with other extras for the all American look.

di Trevi Boutique ul. Piękna 11A, ditrevi.pl Aimed at both him and her, di Trevi present the freshest Italian footwear releases from prestige brands such as Ballin and Loriblu. Handbags are also available inside a chic interior that exudes luxury.

Minty Dot ul. Bracka 5, mintydot.pl Top quality Polish jewelry composed using gold, silver and natural stone. Contemporary in style, these are accessories that radiate class and craftsmanship while at the same time exuding a subtle sense of timeless romance.

EM Cashmere Boutique ul. Szczygla 8, emcashmere.pl Available brands include Allude Cashmere, Annette Görtz, Studiorundholz and Sarah Pacini with 30-40% discounts on last year’s collections, and up to 70% on those of previous years.

A truly beautiful find with the clothes offer supplemented with shoes and accessories.

Mo61 ul. Mokotowska 61, tel. 601 652 593, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, mo61.pl Billed as a ‘perfume laboratory’, Mo61 is the only place in Poland that allows customers to create their own scents. Under the expert guidance of staff trained by Zygmunt Marczewski (“the best nose in Poland”!), visitors compose their own perfumes inside a beautifully renovated pre-war space.

Pingle Optyk ul. Hoża 40 A collection of hand-selected eyewear that is serious in terms of quality control, but entirely whimsical when it comes to design. Yes, you’ve got your ubiquitous Ray Ban classics, but you’ve also got the electric blue version. You’ve got your Chanel and YSL classics, then there are the leather-trimmed frames from Paul Smith and many more funky models straight from Paris.

Pracownia Szczotek ul. Poznańska 26, khaja.pl Opened in 1952, this bespoke brush store has been passed down from grandfather to father and then onto son. On offer: everything from paintbrushes to moustache combs to hairbrushes.

And the owner is a character as well: “I don’t have time for Facebook,” he says, “it would get in the way of my tango lessons!”

Schubert ul. Piwna 12/14, ul. Piwna 26, ul. Świętojańska 11, worldofamber.pl Rings, bracelets, necklaces and watches produced

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fashion

Moliera 2 Boutique ul. Moliera 2, moliera2.com Brands: Alexandre Vauthier, Balmain, Beach Bunny, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Gianvito Rossi, Herve Leger, Isabel Marant, Jimmy Choo, Kenzo, Kotur, Maison Michel, Moncler, One Teaspoon, Pierre Balmain, Ralh Lauren, Simonetta Ravizza, Tod’s, Tory Burch, Valentino, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon.

Pan Tu Nie Stal Koszykowa 35/40, pantuniestal.com Polish design at its peak: fashion is prominent, but there’s also interesting bitsy things such as aprons, jam jars, notebooks and mugs – all with a defiantly Polish twist. Eccentric, unusual and emphatically on-trend, it’s a must-visit.

Pinko Klif shopping Centre, ul. Okopowa 58/72, Nowy Świat 1, Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), pinko.it Straight from Italy, this exclusive shop offers an array of chic day wear and eye-catching casual and evening clothes.

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, plactrzechkrzyzy.com Brands: Christian Louboutin, Dsquared2,

Fay, Gianvito Rossi, Hogan, Kenzo, Moncler, Ralph Lauren, Tod’s, Tom Ford, Valentino, Yves Salomon, Pierre Balmain, Beach Bunny, Kotur, Marc by Marc Jacobs, One Teaspoon, Simonetta Ravizza, Victoria Beckham.Kolekcje dla dzieci: Baby Dior, Dolce&Gabbana Kids, Dsquared2 Kids, Kenzo Kids, Moncler Kids, Ralph Lauren Kids, Tod’s Kids.

Ptasia 6 ul. Ptasia 6, ptasia6.pl A unique ladies concept store showcasing the works of both emerging and established independent Polish fashion labels such as Eva Grygo, Confashion, Horror! Horror!, Kasia Miciak and Polanka.

QπШ - Robert Kupisz ul. Mokotowska 48/204 (courtyard), robertkupisz.com One of Warsaw’s hottest fashion icons, and a trip here soon explains why. The exclusive, handmade garments are a guaranteed head turner.

Reykjavik District ul. Burakowska 15, tel. 501 399 222, open Tue-Fri 13:00-19:00; Sat-Sun 13:00-17:00, reykjavikdistrict.com Chic, well-cut menswear for all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal.

Safripsti ul. Oleandrów 3 Formerly a make-up artist in London and Paris, owner Magdalena returned to Poland to open a vintage boutique. Buying wholesale – meaning prices are kept in check – her fashion store presents finds like authentic cheerleader outfits and Hawaiian shirts for summer, not to mention a great selection of denim, parkers and so forth. And how about a classic Burberry mac for zł. 200?

Van Thorn ul. Sienna 39, tel. 22 243 7377, vanthorn. pl Bespoke and made-to-measure suits as well as custom-made shirts and a range of accessories from ties and pocket squares down to shoes and cufflinks. The attention to detail, the quality and craftsmanship are staggering.

Vintage Store ul. Dobra 56/66 (Level 1, University of Warsaw library), vintagestore.pl Since its inception the store has grown in many ways – now, used brands like Burberry, Barbour, dresses from the ’70s, Hermes scarves, snakeskin handbags, or original Adidas sweaters from the ’60s and ’70s (the owner is an avid collector) are not an uncommon find

listings / shopping in the shop.

Viola Śpiechowicz ul. Kolejowa 55 (Łomianki), vsstore.eu/ violaspiechowicz.com Viola Spiechowicz is an inspiring, unpretentious and highly creative fashion designer who has cultivated her own original and inimitable style since her 1992 debut. Her designs are the result of a long search for the perfect form, texture and color scheme, lending each project its own unique style: be it fashion, upholstery fabrics or accessory design.

home 3F Studio ul. Nowolipki 28b, 3fstudio.com.pl Offers furnishings and lighting from top contemporary Italian brands like BB Italia, Moroso, Living Divani, Desalto and Artemide.

The in-house design team creates custom interiors for clients.

Apteka Sztuki Al. Wyzwolenia 3/5 Apteka Sztuki is an art gallery that features collections by up-and-

coming contemporary artists, preferring promising unknowns to big names. The exhibits, which rotate on a monthly basis, include a variety of media created by artists from all over Europe (although the focus is on Poland).

Ceylon Bazaar ul. Ząbkowska 27/31 (Koneser Factory) A remarkable collection of refurbished antiques, PRL gadgets, posters, T-shirts, handmade bags, etc. It’s an astonishing assembly of raw kitsch and cool bits and pieces. In their words: “pop in and become

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We are a men’s fashion design studio with our own fashion label. Our concept is based around the unique but well-recognized Scandinavian style. Our brand values simplicity in its design while placing emphasis on details. ul. Burakowska 15, tel. 501 339 222, reykjavikdistrict.com

Our boutique offers shoes for both men and women sourced from Italy by the owner. Featuring prestigious brands otherwise unavailable on the Polish market, our models are always in line with the latest trends with each pair unique and unrepeatable there is text. ul. Piękna 11A, tel. 22 617 2222, ditrevi.pl

Bursztynek Bursztynek is the largest amber jewellery shop in Warsaw, though in addition to jewellery, you can also buy unique souvenirs related to amber and Warsaw as well as classic tourist souvenirs with Polish motifs. Part of the shop has been turned into a fascinating museum in which you can learn more about the history of amber.

Rynek Starego Miasta 4/6, tel. 506 007 685, bursztynek.co

www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / shopping the owner of completely useless but indispensable things!”

Le Pukka ul. Solec 58/60, lepukka.pl For interior inspirations take a look at Le Pukka: highly original furniture and decorative pieces for the home come from the likes of Smeg, AreaDeclic, HK Living and Zuiver.

Lipova Showroom ul. Lipowa 7A, lipova.pl Products from Bolon, Vitra and Philips take center stage in Lipova, an edgy store that will reinvent your home / office. From Bolon, find unique 3D flooring, from Vitra, modern Swiss furniture pieces and from Philips, Lumiblade OLEDs and other innovative lights.

Magazyn Praga ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), magazynpraga.pl A visit to this home design store is guaranteed to transform your apartment.

Showcasing emerging Polish talent, the items here are not without humor: `ceramic French bulldogs are particularly popular.

The Warsaw-themed photo montages by artist Katarzyna Osipowicz are riveting, and a surefire conversation starter.

Makutra ul. Oleandrów 5, makutra.com To know and not to cook, is not to know. This store has everything a master chef seeks: from tagines to mezzalunas, it’s got the lot covered. Huge stock of cook books and kitchenware.

Mokotowska 71 ul. Mokotowska 71, mokotowska71.pl Offering creations by Belgian and French designers, this shop just screams elegance, beauty and style.

Murano Casa Piękna 24/26A, muranocasa.pl Calling Murano Casa ‘interesting’ would be courting severe understatement. From high bling (fancy chandeliers and gob-stopping furniture) to more moderate offers (Venetian carnival masks), it’s a great place to add some pizzazz to the home. noon/noon ul. Pańska 98 (enter from ul. Prosta), noonnoon.pl Well-balanced as a coffee bar / showroom where you can interact and experience the functionality and quality of the furniture first hand. A great showcase of upcoming design talent.

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Product Placement ul. Leszczyńska 12, polishdesignnow.com Anyone doubting Poland’s growing reputation in the world of home design hasn’t been to Product Placement. Ceramics, furniture, textiles, kitchenware, bags and gadgets – everything is worth a look.

Reset Point ul. Puławska 48 sklep.resetpoint.pl A treasure trove of renovated antique furniture, vinyl clocks, 70s style handle-less PRL mugs and modern art prints of legendary landmarks such as Dworzec Centralny and the Palace of Culture.

SH Studio ul. Wilcza 44, s-h-studio.pl Art, interior design and furniture are married together inside a tiny store stacked with beautiful antique and retro pieces that have been refurbished and redesigned to lend them a contemporary edge. An amazing place with surprisingly modest prices.

Silly Design Space Piękna 47, sillydesign.pl Looking for framed illustrations of bears dancing with sailors?

Or perhaps an owl-shaped salt shaker? Then Silly Design are here to help – find great little gifts from a brand with a wicked sense of humor.

Take a Nap ul. Mysia 3 This two floor shop is full of bedtime accessories like comfy sheets, pillows, comforters and blankets, plus fun bits of furniture that merge the modern with a country living twist.

Wawa Bla Bla ul. Dobra 15 A gift store with a difference: showcasing the working of Poland’s upcoming ‘street artists’, not to mention the British proprietor’s own photos of Warsaw’s graffiti, this shop is filled with unconventional keepsakes that include canvas prints, Warsaw-themed mugs and one-of-a-kind postcards.

malls & department stores Arkadia Al. Jana Pawła II 82, tel. 22 323 6767, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00, arkadia.com.pl

Atelier Mokotowska 63 ul. Mokotowska 63 Four levels of high end fashion, with Woolrich, Mason’s, Lardini, Boglioli, Borelli and Seventy all represented.

Intimate, discreet and above all luxurious.

Galeria KEN Center/E. Leclerc (Ursynów) ul. Ciszewskiego 15, tel. 22 389 8600, open Mon-Thur 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00.

Galeria Mokotów ul. Wołoska 12, tel. 22 541 4141, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00, galeriamokotow.com.pl Klif House of Fashion ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4500, open Mon-Sat 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. klif.pl Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has everything from the excellent Alma supermarket to top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko.

Plac Unii ul. Puławska 2, tel. 22 204 0499, open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00, placunii.pl Warsaw’s latest mall counts Armani Jeans, Liu-Jo and Pandora amongst its upmarket tenants.

Mysia 3 ul. Mysia 3, tel. 603 767 574, open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00; Sun 12:00-18:00, mysia3. pl Hip department store that’s seen a few tenants come and go, yet has remained on the cutting edge in spite of it all. Set in Poland’s former censorship office, the line-up includes Scandinavian fashion in Cos, shoes from My Paris, unconventional fashion from Nenukko and more.

Vitkac Wolf Bracka Vitkac, ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7313, open Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00; Sun 11:00-18:00, likusconceptstore.pl Vitkac was made for with a credit card blitz in mind. Poland’s first luxury department store gathers the world’s top designers under one roof, with brands including Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton, Stella McCartney and Rick Owens. And that’s the tip of the iceberg. Finish with dinner in the top floor Concept 13.

Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59, tel. 22 222 2200, open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00, zlotetarasy.pl Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Jatomi Health and Fitness Club.

family WARSAW: The Living Museum

activities Little Chef ul. Bałuckiego 30/1, tel. 501 093 691, littlechef.pl (visit for more information) Cooking classes for children age 3-16. Groups for younger children age 4-10 and Junior Chef courses age 11-16. Kids cook and eat healthy meals. Great fun! Classes in English and Polish, Mon-Sat.

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

The Little Gym ul. Bruzdowa 56 & ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 45, tel. 22 842 0728, thelittlegym.eu Expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-to-child ratio, original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. Not only a great place for children, but tailored to a comfortable and relaxing stay for parents as well.

One of the things I love to do more than anything else is to travel. It’s hard to beat that feeling of waking up in a new and exciting place and then taking it all in with a map-less walk and then tasting your way through a culture. So what I decided to do recently after my wife showed my daughter a secret place in Łazienki where her grandfather used to take her was to follow that wisdom and try and make Warsaw more exciting for my daughter. She knows Warsaw as much as our daily life allows: what I wanted to do was take her exploring special places that would show the city as the living museum that it really is.

I’m not taking about daddy time with a trip to SYMK and chocolate at Wedel. Although it may be lost on her at such a young age, I believe seeing things in your own city as if a traveler for the first time makes life interesting: it creates memories. That’s why I ended up taking her to Powiśle where, in the park down below the Sheraton, next to the fountain on the old-style promenade, sits a Social Realist statue of a woman with a dove.

Erected in 1957, four years after the death of Stalin, it’s possibly the last Socialist Realist monument to ever be sculpted in Poland.

I told my daughter that the reason she was holding a dove was because her name was Peace. Did my daughter know what peace was, I asked.

“You mean like a piece of pizza,” she answered. I laughed, knowing that she knew we were off to Mąka i Woda for lunch next, and figured that even if my daughter didn’t get something out of our foray to Powiśle, then at least I certainly did – from now on, my favorite public sculpture in Warsaw will always have a new, special meaning. (KD)

Warsaw Zoo ul. Ratuszowa 1/3, tel. 22 619 4041, open Mon-Sun 9:00-18:00, zoo.waw.pl The hippopotami now have an indoor and outdoor pool, the gorillas a new pavilion, and the arrival of a shark means it now has an ‘aquarium’.

Wilanów Golf Driving Range/ Ekberg Golf Academy ul. Vogla 19, open Mon-Sun 9:00-21:00, golfparkspoland.pl Keen golfers (all ages) can perfect their swing at this friendly, well equipped driving range, whilst beginners can opt for professional individual lessons or beginner group programs in English or Polish.

There is a weekly junior hour (5-15yrs), ladies hour and fun mini-golf course.

Zachęta Gallery Pl. Małachowskiego 3, open Tue-Sun 12:0020:00, zacheta.art.pl Recently undergone extensive modernization, this gallery and bookshop offer a perfect introduction to modern art. Also available are weekend workshops for children and original cultural birthday parties guided by experienced animators in a contemporary environment. www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / family education preschools

American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel.

22 702 85 00, aswarsaw.org American School of Warsaw provides a rich, meaningful and balanced educational experience through age-appropriate activities to students aged 3 to 5. For further information and/or to visit our school, contact:admissions@aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00.

The British Primary School of Wilanów ul. Hlonda 12, bsww.pl, tel. 781 988 000 Following the National Curriculum of England and Wales, this is the first School in Poland subject to the inspection of the UK Independent School Inspectorate. Pupils receive British and, upon request, Polish reports/diplomas. The school follows a closed admissions policy and limits enrollment of one nationality to below 50% of each class starting from Year 1.

The British School Early Years Centre ul. Dąbrowskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646 7777, british@thebritishschool.

pl, thebritishschool.pl The Early Years Foundation Stage is where a lifetime of learning begins. The British School, Warsaw provides EYFS classes from Pre-nursery (age 30 months) to Reception (5 years old).

Children develop quickly and their Early Years practitioners aim to do all they can to help your child have the best possible start in life and become a lifelong learner.

The Canadian School of Warsaw Preschool ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, preschool@canadianschool.pl The Canadian School of Warsaw is the only authorized school in Warsaw teaching IB PYP in English. The preschool offers a bilingual environment for 3-6 year olds enriched with foreign languages and extra activities. Serving the Warsaw community since 2000 all children are welcome, though available space is limited. For further info, tours and school visits call or email.

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School

have 3 green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy.

Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. Call to make an appointment to tour any of the 3 schools.

International Trilingual School of Warsaw ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/ saint-exupery.pl Established in 1994, and formerly known as Ecole Antoine de Saint Exupery, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The full-immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French.

Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China.

(multiple locations)

Warsaw Montessori School ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, warsawmontessori.edu. pl Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini

The English Playhouse ul. Pływiańska 14a & ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 22 843 9370, office open 8:0016.00, theenglishplayhouse.com The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów.

The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old. For more info or to arrange a tour of the pre-school or nursery call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email: jnowak@theenglishplayhouse.com Maple Tree Montessori ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/ Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, mapletreemontessori.pl Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). Find them

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listings / family located in the Wilanów district of Warsaw, in a house safely nestled into the end of a quiet street.

schools American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, aswarsaw.org ASW is a premier college-preparatory international school that offers a PK-12 curriculum, including the IB Diploma Program in Grades 11 and 12. Students are inspired and challenged every day by experienced and dedicated teachers, who provide enriching learning opportunities in a world class facility. For further information and/or to visit our school contact: admissions@aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00.

The British Primary School of Wilanów ul. Hlonda 12, bsww.pl, tel.

781 988 000 Following the National Curriculum of England and Wales, this is the first School in Poland subject to the inspection of the UK Independent School Inspectorate. Pupils receive British and, upon request, Polish reports/diplomas. The school follows a closed admissions policy and limits enrollment of one nationality to below 50% of each class starting from Year 1.

The British School ul.

Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, open 8:00-16:00, british@thebritishschool.pl, thebritishschool.pl Premium international school established in 1992 by Nord Anglia Education. The curriculum is designed to provide the highest academic quality of education. They follow the English National Curriculum, adapted to the needs of their international student community: from Primary through to the Secondary Key Stages to the IGCSE examinations and a well-established International Baccalaureate (IB) Diploma Programme.

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School

flora and fauna as well as domesticated animals, taking charge of the younger children and much more. “Adolescence Program” activities, integrated with academic studies, help students discover their inner strength to meet life’s real challenges.

The English Primary ul. Rzodkiweki 18, tel. 784 037 808, jnowak@tep.edu. pl An English primary school designed to prepare children for their next steps in education in a friendly, caring and nurturing environment. We take children from the international community through the key learning stages so that they achieve to the best of their best ability through a fun learning experience.

(multiple locations)

Warsaw Montessori School ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, warsawmontessori.edu.pl Casa dei Bambini Warsaw Montessori School are set to open their Erdkinder Montessori Middle School as of September 2016. Located at Tatrzańska 5A they promise an extraordinary opportunity for study, work and for daily living. Guided by trained specialists, students will be responsible for managing their household, operating small businesses, caring for local

The Canadian School of Warsaw Elementary School ul. Bełska 7, tel.

692 411 573, admission@ canadian-school.pl, canadian-school.pl The Canadian School of Warsaw is the only authorized school in Warsaw teaching IB PYP in English. The Primary School offers bilingual education for 6-11 year olds. Highly qualified, international staff, challenging materials and a friendly atmosphere provide an optimal setting for the highest standard of education.

Extra-curricular activities include visual arts, designing classes, ceramics/pottery,

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listings / family art studio, music lessons (piano, guitar, choir), sports (capoeira, karate, judo, soccer, swimming, gymnastics), languages (English, Polish, French, Spanish, Italian, German) and more.

The Canadian School of Warsaw Middle School ul. Olimpijska 11, tel.

885 420 044 / 885 620 066, secretary. olimpijska@canadian-school.pl, canadian-

school.pl Provides a continuation of PREIB education for 11-15 year olds. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create a perfect learning and creative thinking environment. For further info, tours and school visits call or email.

Also home to the Non-Public PsychoPedagogical Counseling Centre ‘Olimpia’ (tel.

885 620 066) which examines the level of mental, emotional, auditory and visual-motor functions’ development, and conducts individual and group pedagogical therapy, as well as individual psychotherapy..

International Trilingual School of Warsaw ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages. pl/saint-exupery.pl The Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve.

A Montessori Education is… warsaw montessori school

We are accepting applications for Infant & Toddler Center at Tatrzańska 5a: age 1 - 2,5 Casa at Badowska 19: age 2,5 - 5 Please contact Ela: 692 099 134 e-mail: office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl www.warsawmontessori.edu.pl

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health & beauty gyms

Artis Wellness Club ul. Klimczaka 1 (Royal Wilanów), artisclub. pl And so here we have a contender for Warsaw’s best gym. Found in Royal Wilanów, this state-of-the-art gym boasts the latest technological advances in personal fitness, as well as a massive program of courses that range from group cycling and yoga to Zumba and body combat. Personal training and deluxe spa facilities also available.

FIVE FOR WAX

EASY WAXING (ul. Grzybowska 39, easywaxing.pl) Whether its waxing, a manicure, facial or simply a full day of pampering, this is one to bear in mind. Depilation with hard wax, soft wax or Lycon is available (prices start from zł. 50 for legs). If your skin is sensitive, choose a less painful treatment using organic sugar paste. Ingrown hair treatment with algae is also on the menu (zł. 109).

OUCH! (pictured) (ul. Belwederska 32 / ul. Bonifaterska 8, ouch.pl) Thanks to the ambient interiors at Ouch! just waiting your turn is a pleasure. Leg treatments begin at zł. 50, Brazilian with Lycon Hot Wax from zł. 130 and armpit treatments with natural wax from zł. 50. Both for men and women.

SMOOTH CLINIC (ul. Pańska 96A / 207A, smoothclinic.pl) Smooth Clinic offers a detailed menu from which you can choose exactly how much hair you want to get rid of. Also available: special wax treatments for sportsmen and mothersto-be. Prices for ladies’ bikini areas start from zł. 39, and the ‘backzilian’ for men from zł. 33. No appointments necessary so wax as you go!

TIME FOR WAX (various locations, see: timeforwax.pl) With over seven locations in Warsaw, Time For Wax offers complex wax treatments. Prices for belly depilation begin at zł. 18, classical bikini from zł. 39, and Brazilian at zł 89. If you want to ease the pain, go for a Magic Wax: a special treatment with natural wax depilation sans stripes for less pulling on the skin.

WAXING STUDIO (ul. Próżna 5 / Al. KEN 88, waxingstudio.pl) No matter how much hair you have, nothing is impossible at Waxing Studio. You can go bare down there with four kinds of waxing, sugar paste depilation or... aromapilation with chocolate wax. The Boyzilian (for men) is possible on request. Note: facebook ‘likers’ get a 30% discount.

Fitness Centre at the Radisson SAS Centrum Hotel ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888 Smallish but well-regarded gym with swimming pool, sauna, gym, and group classes inside one of Warsaw’s top five stars.

Fitness Centre at the Sheraton Hotel ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6701, www.sheraton. com/warsaw The Sheraton spa features sauna, steam room and massage, while the gym comes with LCD-fitted running and cycling machines, and a dedicated cardio section. Personal training available, as are group classes covering pilates, yoga, aerobics and even ski conditioning.

Holmes Place Energy Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (C.H. Arkadia), ul.

Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), www. holmesplace.pl Making top-flight gym facilities available to the masses, the Holmes Place Energy brand offers high standard equipment, personal training and group classes. Six month membership available for approx. zł.

200 per month, though prices are subject to change. For latest details enquire direct.

Holmes Place Premium ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel), tel.

22 851 0563, ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), tel. 22 313 1222, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), tel. 519 436 841, www.holmesplace.pl Those who use it claim the Hilton branch is the best gym in Poland.

Set on two floors, highlights include a 25 meter pool, sauna and steam room and a spacious gym packed with the most modern www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / health & beauty equipment. Also on-site, a varied timetable of classes, excellent personal trainers and a Green Coffee relaxation area. There’s two more ‘premium’ gyms to choose from, including the one in the Marriott immortalized after Obama’s recent work out there.

Little Gym ul. Bruzdowa 56, tel. 22 842 0728, www.thelittlegym.pl Targeted at children, expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-to-child ratio, original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. Englishspeaking, as well.

McFit ul. Świętokrzyska 3 (corner of Nowy Świat), tel. 22 313 1400, mcfit.com The budget European chain signals its arrival to Poland with a 2,000 sq/m studio that utilizes the latest technology as well as ‘cyber training’ programs. Open 24/7, with membership from zł. 89 per month.

RiverView Wellness Centre ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental), tel. 22 328 86 40, www.riverview.com.pl Top-class facilities and equipment, private instructors and small classes. The view from the highest pool in Europe offers a glorious panorama of the city. Annual prices from zł. 4,200 (access from Mon-Fri 6 a.m. to 5 p.m.), zł. 5,760 (all times), and zł. 8,350 for Diamond Membership (includes two personal training sessions per month, a

complimentary weekend at the InterContinental, restaurant discounts, etc.).

spas & salons

0 Fiuu Fiuu Day Spa ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 629 2414.

A wonderful quick fix salon that makes use of the latest Ericson products and other top brands. Regarded as one of the top ladies day spas in the country.

Nail & Beauty Bar ul. Mokotowska 26, tel. 22 621 1404. A top spot for a classic manicure or pedicure – they also do lots of complicated things with gels and other hi-tech nail discoveries. Also on Elektoralna 24.

La Perla multiple locations inc. Łowicka 21B/1, Wilcza 22A, Hilton Hotel, klinikalaperla. pl Here, the staff is adept and certified at a range of innovative treatments: from the non-invasive Bella Contour treatment to the Body Tite and Body Jet treatments that use the latest surgical procedures to slim and tighten. For summer the right spa/salon/ clinic is key. La Perla’s all three in one!

Ouch! ul. Belwederska 32, 22 240 87 67; ul. Bonifraterska 8, tel. 22 298 11 12, ouch. pl Experts in waxing, Ouch! Aim their offer at ‘busy women looking for express treatments with lasting effects who, at the same time, appreciate a sense of intimacy’. High quality waxes, including fast and accurate epilation treatments whose effects last up to four weeks. Wax treatments for the whole body.

La Plata ul. Wielicka 42, tel. 517 576 667,

30% BEGINNER’S DISCOUNT

Feel the difference! The best waxing clinic in Warsaw. ul. Pańska 96/207A smoothclinic.pl 606 418 906

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Le Spa ul. Mokotowska 55, tel. 22 622 9428, open Mon-Fri 9:00-21:00, Sat 9:00-16:00.

This little island of peace and beauty takes you light-years away from the bustle of Warsaw.

Hair a Porter ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent, level -1), tel.

22 558 1555, open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat 9:00-17:00, hair-a-porter.pl A staunch favorite among the ex-pat crowd, Hair a Porter offer the ultimate hair experience utilizing talented staff and top-quality products.

Regarded as one of the best!

EXPERTS IN WAXING

laplata-spa.pl Manual and mechanized massage in a relaxed space inspired by Buddhist philosophy. Treatments include herbal stamp Thai massage and hot coconut oil massage amongst others.

ouch!

DEPILACJA WOSKIEM

PARDON MY FRENCH

manicure pedicure

Pardon My French ul. Belwederska 32, tel. 22 240 62 90; Bonifraterska 8, tel. 22 298 11 10; ul. Mokotowska 56, tel. 22 298 10 10, pardonmyfrench.pl Manicure and pedicure treatments with high quality lacquers and an awareness of global trends: if you need an endorsement, Paul McCartney visited when he was in Poland! Free wifi and coffee, as well as the possibility of hosting baby showers and bachelorette parties. Open from 9-8 during the week and 9-5 on Sat (with the Mokotowska branch also welcoming visitors on Sunday from 10-4).

The Pedicure Place ul. Pokorna 2, lok. u11, tel. 22 241 3000 or 505 828 688, open Mon-Fri 9:00-21:00; Sat 9:00-18:00, www.pedicure-place.pl A luxury pedi/manicure clinic with room for 10. All the latest OPI varnishes and over 200 colors guarantee you’ll find the latest in styling and

SPONSORED MATERIAL

WAXING EXPLAINED: SMOOTH CLINIC

Many women are terrified of going the full monty down there, but Katarzyna Dworak – the owner of Smooth Clinic – busts the myths of wax depilation.

WI: Why do women prefer waxing over other hair removal techniques?

KD: Waxing is a natural technique of hair removal. It’s faster, cheaper and has an immediate and long-lasting effect. At Smooth Clinic, waxing is comfortable and nearly painless, thanks to the top quality waxes and cosmetics we use.

What should we know before the treatment?

That you’ll leave absolutely satisfied! Our experts will take care of everything. For example, if this is your first Brazilian depilation, our specialists will help you overcome embarrassment. The treatment is quick, but we don’t compromise on your safety and comfort. At Smooth Clinic, we provide a top quality service: our specialists are very experienced and well-trained to carry out the most complicated waxing treatments.

How are waxing treatments offered by Smooth Clinic are different from other treatments?

Our treatments are tailored to the needs of our clients.

We are the only waxing salon in Warsaw that offers specialized treatments for sportspeople, pregnant women and men. After a mandatory consultation, each client is provided with the right wax and our experts give on-hand advice to first-timers. Thanks to that, fear and embarrassment disappear.

Mothers come with daughters, other clients bring their girlfriends. Customers come back, and that’s the best recommendation.

Who is your most frequent client?

Hair removal treatments aren’t for women only: men get waxed at Smooth Clinic too. The stereotype of waxing as being ‘unmanly’ has long gone. Smooth Clinic is especially popular among sportspeople: among them professional athletes as well as men who like to take care of themselves.

Smooth Clinic

ul. Pańska 96A/207A, smoothclinic.pl www.warsawinsider.pl

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in the city

ON INSTAGRAM #warsawinsider

The heat is on! Don’t be left out in the cold this summer, become an Insider by joining us on Instagram for your daily dose of hot city happenings: covering everything from food and drink to art and architecture, follow us to discover the real taste of Warsaw‌

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listings / in the city VISITORS accomodation 5-Star Hotels

Bristol Hotel ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1000, bristol@luxurycollection. com, www.hotelbristolwarsaw.pl

H15 Boutique ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 553 8700, info@ h15ab.com, www.h15ab.com Hilton Warsaw ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555 / 800 44 11 482, www.hilton.com InterContinental ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com

Mamaison Le Régina Hotel Warsaw ul. Kościelna 12, tel. 22 531 6000, www.mamaison.com Marriott Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 6306, www.warsawmarriott.com

www.sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com Westin Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, www.westin.pl

4-Star Hotels

Radisson Blu Sobieski pl. Zawiszy 1, tel. 22 579 1000, www.sobieski.com.pl

The Rialto Boutique Hotel ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8700, www.rialto.pl

Mecure Warszawa Centrum ul. Złota 48/54, tel. 22 697 3999, www.mercure.com

Sheraton ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6100, www.sheraton.pl Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-warsaw

Mercure Grand Warszawa ul. Krucza 28, tel. 22 583 2100, www.mercure.com Courtyard by Marriott Hotel (Airport) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 0100, www.warszawacourtyard.pl

Sofitel Warsaw Victoria ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8011,

Novotel Warszawa Centrum ul. Marszałkowska 94/98, tel. 22 596 0000,

SEAFOOD SIGNATUR E BRUNCH AT SOFITEL WARSAW VICTORIA Enjoy a gourmand Sunday with your family at Sofitel Warsaw Victoria. We invite you to delight in a rich signature buffet concept, including a selection of seafood, oysters, shrimps, fresh fish, caviar and crabs. Every Sunday we offer a special kids menu and activities for children with our animators.

Discover the Best Brunch 2015 awarded with the „Best of Warsaw 2015” by Warsaw Insider every Sunday from 12:30pm to 4:30pm at a price of 165 PLN per perso n.

Bookings: Kitchen Gallery - Sofitel Warsaw Victoria Tel.: 22 657 82 62 Email: kitchen.gallery@sofitel.com

WWW.SOFITEL.COM

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listings / in the city www.novotel.com, www.accorhotels.com Polonia Palace Hotel Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. 22 318 2800, www.poloniapalace.com Warsaw Plaza Hotel ul. Łączyny 5, tel. 885 886 100, www. warsawplazahotel.pl

apartments

InterContinental ul. Emili Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www. warsaw.intercontinental.com Long and short stay apartments provided by the hotel of the same name. Perks included are the same as those received by hotel guests: i.e. access to the top floor pool, room service, maid service etc.

MaMaison Residence Diana ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 9100, www.mamaison.com/diana A beautiful city center location from the same team behind Le Regina. Short and long term stays.

B&B

ul. Chmielna 13, tel. 22 828 1282, www.chmielnabb.pl

ul. Kineskopowa 1, Piaseczno, tel. 22 716 5566, www.euromove.pl

RESIDENTS relocation companies

Interdean International Relocation ul. Geodetów 172, Piaseczno, tel. 22 701 7171, www.interdean.com

Express Relocations ul. Szyszkowa 35/37, tel. 22 878 3539, www.expressrelocations.com

Move One Relocations ul. Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 8160, www.moveonerelo.com Also immigration assistance, fine art shipping, pet transport and consulting services.

Euro Move International Movers ul. Kineskopowa 1, Piaseczno, tel. 22 716 5566, www.euromove.pl AGS Warsaw ul. Julianowska 37, Piaseczno, tel. 22 702 1072, www.agsmovers.com CorstJens Worldwide Movers Group ul. Nowa 23, Stara Iwiczna, tel. 22 737 7200, www.corstjens.com

Between Us Bed & Breakfast ul. Bracka 20, tel. 22 8285417 (from 10 a.m. to 11p.m.), www.between-us.eu

DuX Consulting Agency ul. Panieńska 9/28, tel. 22 670 4280 or 502 216 606 www.duxconsulting.com.pl

Boutique B&B ul. Smolna 14/6, tel. 22 829 4800, www.bedandbreakfast.pl

Express Relocations ul. Szyszkowa 35/37, tel. 22 878 3535, www.expressrelocations.com

Chmielna Guesthouse

Euro Move International Movers

Relo Planet ul. Batalinou Platerówek 3, tel. 22 658 1958, reloplanet.com International, domestic and office removals, corporate and individual relocations, fine art shipping, storage, insurance, as well as a full range of assistance services (immigration, etc.).

services Domestina domestina.pl New to Warsaw, Domestina offer four-hour maid solutions ranging from zł. 129-142. Offering full premium service, they’ll make your bed to match the standard of a five-star hotel, and clean every corner till

Get 12 issues for the price of 6 (60 zł) WARSAWPASS & CHOPINPASS Valid for 24, 48 and 72-hour periods, the Warsaw Pass enables holders to hop on and off a bus ploughing the main tourist routes, as well as free entry (and the ability to ‘skip the line’) to numerous attractions including Polin, the PKiN viewing platform, Royal Castle, Copernicus Science Centre and many more besides. Discounts for tours and restaurants are also part of the package.

For full details, see: warsawpass.com

SUBSCRIBE AND SAVE! Email: insider@warsawinsider.pl

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Also, be sure to pick up the ChopinPASS, a package that includes admission to the Chopin Museum and to the birthplace of Fryderyk Chopin in Żelazowa Wola, as well as direct transportation between these two institutions. For details, see: ChopinPass.com

listings / in the city your flat is spotless! Order and pay online via their English-language website.

storage

of InterNations is to bring together ‘global minds’. Now an established part of Warsaw’s social and corporate circuit, their monthly meetings have become Must Do events on schedules round town.

together aspects of communist life through dioramas that present typical living quarters of the time and a milk bar. Displays include a restored Saturator machine, a collection of commie hoovers. A must see!

Wiecej Miejsca Tel. 733 002 014, www.wiecejmiejsca.pl A new storage service that will even go so far as to pick up your items for you and transporting them to their guarded warehouse.

They’ll also the supply the storage bins which typically fit 90 books, 100 t-shirts, 25 jumpers. Larger items like bikes, suitcases can also be left with them.

Professionals in Warsaw meetup.com/Professionals-in-Warsaw New to town? There’s few better ways to give your social life a jump start than popping along to one of the informal drinks mixers conducted

by Professionals in Warsaw. Natives and foreigners of all backgrounds and professions are welcomed – all you have to do is buy your own drinks. Search for them on facebook.

Polin - Museum of the History of Polish Jews ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl Composed of eight galleries, each covers a different stage of local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day. Covering 4,000 sq/m, highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec synagogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical inter-war Jewish Warsaw street.

polish for foreigners

museums

Cup of Polish cupofpolish.com, tel. 508 700 508 Personalized Polish classes adapted to meet your needs. Also home/company visits and online courses. For a free 60-minute trial email: kontakt@cupofpolish.com

community

Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. 22 596 4100, kopernik.org.pl Copernicus allows visitors to experience an earthquake, blast recyclable objects into space and become a mystery cracking detective.

CSW ul. Jazdów 2, csw.art.pl Situated in a baroque-style castle the center hosts artists from all over the world. The bookshop is of particular interest for artists and intellectuals.

Museum of Life Under Communism ul. Glucha, adventurewarsaw.com Run by the excellent Adventure Warsaw tour guide company, the Museum of Communist Life brings

InterNations www.internations.org Drawing professionals from home and abroad the mission

National Museum Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented.

The Neon Museum ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum. org This amazing project brings together the neon lights that once illuminated the city.

Warsaw Rising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl Exhibits range from a full-size replica of a Liberator plane, to a sewer beneath the cinema screen and a slice of bread preserved from 1944.

Don’t miss the ‘City of Ruins’, a five minute 3D film which takes you on an aerial journey over devastated Warsaw.

w W a r s a www.city-tour.com.pl

Yellow Double-Decker Bus

Invites you to experience a panoramic tour of tourist attractions of the capital of Poland, Warsaw, in a relaxing and comfortable way.

Traveling over the course of approximately 1,5 hour, a double-decker bus will take you past many beautiful and interesting places of Warsaw, such as its interesting districts, palaces and churches, monuments and museums, parks and historical cemeteries, as well as the Jewish historical sites.

A GPS 12 language audio-guide, will give explanations and accompany you to make your ride a more adventurous, exciting and an unforgettable one.

Excellent Hop on Hop off and one trip service operates every day all year round.

5% DISCOUNT with this ad

Line approved by municipal authorities.

www.city-tour.com.pl

+48 500 033 414

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Wielkanoc pełna smaku!

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Wyśmienity smak żurku z grzybami i białą kiełbasą, pasztet z dziczyzny z konfiturą z cebuli i rodzynek, drożdżowe baby i mazurki...

Wielkanoc - niech twoje święta będą pełne smaku.

Zapraszamy do składania zamówień świątecznych: CENTRUM: ul. Żurawia 47/49, Warszawa, tel. +48 (22) 621 82 68, godziny otwarcia: 7:00 - 22:00 ŻOLIBORZ: ul.Felińskiego 52, Warszawa, tel. +48 608 046 406, godziny otwarcia: 9:00 - 20:00 www.smakiwarszawy.pl

Floody Hell!

Summer doesn’t just bring the sun – this issue we look back at the worst floods to have struck the capital… BY STUART DOWELL

L

ast month’s flash flooding due to heavy overnight rainfall caused havoc in Warsaw, especially in the southern districts.

Some streets were impassable in the morning causing thousands to be late for work. The deluge and the chaos that followed were a good reminder of the power of flooding to affect the daily lives of people in the city.

Warsaw was regularly hit by massive flooding in the 19th and 20th centuries. The flooding was so regular that Varsovians had names for their different types. A marcówka, as the name suggests, happens in early spring as a result of snowmelt in the Beskid mountains. The biggest marcówka happened in 1813 when the river reached its highest level in recorded history.

A świętojanka happens at the end of June when regular rainfall swells the San and Wieprz rivers that flow into the Wisła in the south of Poland. The biggest one hit Warsaw in 1884. A jakobówka, named after St. James’s day on 25 July, strikes after torrential July rains create a flood wave that surges up the Wisła. The most notable jakobówka hit Warsaw in the cataclysmic flooding of 1844.

104 Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2016

The effects of the flood in 1844 were much greater than those in the 20th and 21st centuries. After all, the flood walls hadn’t been built and Russian military doctrine was based on a system of river forts along unregulated rivers. Reports from the time describe trees, hay, roofs of buildings and sometimes whole buildings being swept along. Powiśle suffered heavily, as it usually did during floods. The naming of the street Topiel in that district, which means deep water, was no accident.

In the świętojanka of 1884, the newspaper Kurier Warszawski reported a funeral column with a coffin floating hastily towards the cemetery, as well as a barn roof with bleating sheep and a horse still tethered to a wagon drifting helplessly down the river. Many people died and those who saved themselves clambered onto building roofs or high ground and received food from steamboats as they waited for the waters to subside. The flooding that year reached the garden terrace behind Wilanów Palace, and if you visit the palace gardens you can see a pillar marking the highest levels that the river has reached: you’ll have to strain your neck to see the highest mark of 863 cm from 1813.

The Thousand-Year Flood of July 1997 in which 54 people died and 1,500 people lost their homes mercifully for Warsaw did its worst in Lower Silesia. 2010, though, saw the Wisła rise to 780 cm, a level not seen since 1844. Tension in the city was palpable as the waters rose and people watched to see if the embankments would hold out. Thankfully, the waters were contained and made their way to the Baltic.

Will 2015 enter the inglorious canon of flood-hot years?

Let’s hope not.

PHOTOGRAPH SHUTTERSTOCK

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