Warsaw Insider December 2015 #232

Party Season Pub Crawl

Secrets of the Carp

page 20

Warsaw

Churches of Wa-wa page 24

Travel: Xmas Breaks page 26

page 30

December 12 price zł.10 INDEKS 334901 ISSN:1643-1723

(232)

2015

(VAT 8% included)

DECEMBER 2015 Editor-in-chief Alex Webber

insider@warsawinsider.pl Art Director Kevin Demaria insider@warsawinsider.pl

it sure went fast – with last orders called on 2015, Warsaw can reflect upon another cracking year. Along the way we’ve welcomed new trends while finessing older ones and all the signs point to a city that’s maturing.

But seeing that these words are being written in late November, there’s a realization that a lot still stands to happen. That’s why, for the second year running, we’ve shifted our retrospective look at the Best of Warsaw till January. Instead, this issue, we’re concentrating on Christmas: inside, chef Aleksander Baron carps on about Poland’s grisly Xmas fish, we enjoy a seasonal pub crawl of Old Town, and track down your best getaway options if you’ve missed the plane home. But that’s the tip of the tree. Elsewhere we celebrate a heavy smoking, hard drinking soldier bear called Wojtek, explore the lesser known bits of the city’s churches and take a closer look at the work of Light At Night – the mysterious photographer whose images of the capital have captivated its citizens.

Have a top Christmas!

INFRONT

Opener 7 News 8 Great Indoors 10 Wojtek the Bear 14 Xmas Gifts 16

FEATURES

Photography 18 Old Town Pub Crawl 20 Holiday Food 24 Churches: Past & Present 26 Travel: Xmas Breaks 30

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Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

LISTINGS

Restaurants 44 Cafes & Wine Bars 75 Nightlife 80 Shopping 89 Family 95 Health & Beauty 101 In the City 104

REVIEWS

Deseo 34 Cotton Ball Lamps 36 Shoepassion.com 38 Chinkali 37 Cool Cat 39

Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2015

PARTNER NEWS

The latest marketplace news from the Warsaw Insider’s friends and advertisers… 40

INBACK

Map 110 Looking Back 112

Contributors: Gill Boelman-Burrows Stuart Dowell Maria Mileńko Michał Miszkurka Ed Wight Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com ey Account Manager K A. Julita Pryzmont jpryzmont@valkea.com ey Account Manager K Agata Sicińska asicinska@valkea.com ey Account Manager K Agata Sobkiewicz asobkiewicz@valkea.com Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com Subscription 12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland.

Orders can be placed through: insider@warsawinsider.pl Printed by Zakład Poligraficzny TECHGRAFTel. (17) 225-28-69 VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies.

All information ©2015 Warsaw Insider.

on the cover To mirror this issue’s seasonal slant, our cover artist has put his neck on the line and predicted a white Christmas.

(Illustration by Michał Miszkurka)

PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT

Gone. I’m not sure where, but

Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com

CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN MEN GIANVITO ROSSI MEN KENZO MARC BY MARC JACOBS MONCLER RALPH LAUREN TOD’S TOM FORD TORY BURCH

BABY DIOR DOLCE&GABBANA KIDS DSQUARED2 KIDS KENZO KIDS MONCLER KIDS RALPH LAUREN KIDS TOD’S KIDS

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 tel.: +48 226221416, www.PlacTrzechKrzyzy.com

this month...

PETS

International Cat Show 5-6 Dec @ ul. Króla Maciusia 5 Warsaw’s biggest cat show will have all sorts of breeds on display, as well as bits and pieces of feline paraphernalia.

For further info, see: www.pzf.pl

FAIR

1500xmass Christmas Fair 6 Dec @ 1500m2, ul. E. Plater 29 Plenty of niche designers and upcoming names selling their wares in what promises to be a great place to buy bitsy gifts and special little somethings.

FAIR

Wzory 6/12 6 Dec, 11:00-21:00 @ ul. Bracka 25 This Warsaw design fair returns for its seventh edition, showcasing furniture, ceramics, fabrics and lighting from a range of young Polish designers.

National Stadium, ul. Poniatowskiego 1 Admission is free!

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Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2015

CARS

Barbórka 12 Dec @ ul. Karowa A vintage rally race around the curly ul. Karowa. Going strong since 1972, it’ll be accompanied by numerous events and stands to keep the fans busy.

For ticket details, see: barborka.pl

CONCERT

Glenn Miller Orchestra 16 Dec @ PKiN, Pl. Defilad 1 For over 70 years they’ve been entertaining audiences with their timeless swing!

Once again, Warsaw’s one of their destinations amongst the 300-odd (!) concerts the band gives each year.

Tickets from zł. 145 @ eventim.pl

FAIR

CONCERT

19-20 Dec @ PKiN, Pl. Defilad 1 Poland’s most famed yard sale brings together a battalion of independent designers, traders and artists making it the ultimate last minute stocking filler for the more creative-minded.

Mustache Yard Sale

9 Dec @ Towar, ul. Łazienkowska 6 Favorably compared to Nina Simone, the Grammy-nominated American,

Massive midnight fireworks followed by megastar Paul Van Dyk on the decks. Other performers include Grubson and Lemon.

Tickets from zł. 150 @ ticketpro.pl

For info, check: wzorytargi.pl (Polish language only).

Melody Gardot

Editor’s Pick New Year’s Eve

singer / song writer will be wooing Warsaw with her silky, soothing voice and jazzy sounds.

INVISIBLE EXHIBITION

Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, www.niewidzialna.pl Admission from zł. 19-28.

An astonishing exhibition that leads people through the daily challenges faced by the blind. In the first section, learn to type in braille, decipher maps, crack puzzles whilst blindfolded or clutter about a kitchen using aids designed to help the sightless – you’ll be amazed at some of the technological advances that have been made.

But that’s the easy bit. Having acclimatized to this strange, new world, visitors are then plunged into complete and utter darkness to face up to the everyday obstacles faced by the blind. Relying on your wits and senses, guests experience six life environments such as crossing a road whilst cars whizz past and trying to pay for a coffee. The series of objectives test you to the max. Launched in a bid to break barriers and stereotypes, it’s a deeply thought provoking experience, one that you’ll talk about for hours after. Advanced bookings are recommended, especially for English-language guided tours. As a rule of thumb, set aside approximately 90 minutes for your visit, of which an hour or so will be conducted in the darkness.

Always something new Tables: +48 694 413 439 platinium@platiniumclub.pl 6, Fredy Street, Warsaw www.platiniumclub.pl /platiniumclubpl Door selection Dress code: casual elegant

in

What’s hot, what’s not: the faces and stories trending around town KAMIENICA KRONGOLDA IN NUMBERS

2020

The deadline…

Given to AFI to restore the building

1988 The year…

In which the building was entered into the National Register of Monuments

120

The number…

Of apartments once inside the building

21

Million złoty

The amount AFI spent purchasing the building LOCAL

ILLUSTRATION BY MARIA MILEŃKO

No Smoke Without Fire?

The future of a historic building is under threat after a fire swept through its upper floors in the middle of November. Completed in 1899, Kamienica Krongolda on Złota 83 was for years regarded as one of the city’s most exclusive addresses, and renowned for its rich decorations of marble and oak. Increasingly dilapidated, and nicknamed Beijing on account of the number of people stacked inside its apartments, recent years even saw a TV soap opera based around the everyday goings-on inside the tenement.

Emptied of residents twelve years back, the building was purchased in February by AFI Europe, a real estate developer that had vowed to return the structure to its former glory.

But a mysterious blaze that ripped through the attic has outraged locals, with many openly accusing AFI of orchestrating the inferno so as to push through redevelopment plans that had been initially turned down by the city conservator. AFI have reiterated their intention to restore the building and have moved quickly to dispel any rumors: “we’re a huge international company,” commented a spokesman, “we wouldn’t dream of risking our reputation for what is, with all due respect, a tiny part of our portfolio.” The natives, however, aren’t impressed. A spate of suspicious fires in derelict historic buildings have provoked fury, with many claiming the city isn’t doing enough to save Warsaw’s pre-war buildings from developers looking to sidestep the heavy costs that restoration entails. (AW)

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Fire engines…

Called out to deal with the blaze

12

Years ago…

When the last residents were evicted

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Times

The building went up for auction before being finally purchased

5

Hours

For firefighters to control the fire www.warsawinsider.pl

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inFront

bits n’ pieces LOCAL

Abra-kebab-ra!

Warsaw’s annual Independence Day march passed off peacefully this year, with police reporting just one arrest. Previously, the nationalist parade has plunged Warsaw into chaos, with prior incidents including a sustained attack on the Russian Embassy, the torching of a rainbow installation and running battles with riot police. Yet while many of those marching openly waved banners protesting against immigration, many of the Middle Eastern kebab shop owners of Saska Kępa – where the parade ended – reported record sales as a result of the march.

INTERNATIONAL

SEE THE LIGHT!

5 p.m., December 5th is the moment Santa hits the secret button to illuminate the city!

Poles rallied round in support of the victims of the Paris attacks with a candle-lit vigil outside the French Embassy attracting hundreds of mourners. In a gesture of solidarity, the Palace of Culture was one of many national landmarks to be illuminated in the colors of the French flag. Although no Poles were killed, the Polish Embassy in Paris has come under scrutiny after a Polish journalist claimed he was turned away while seeking refuge from the gunfire.

NATIONAL

Treasure Train Newsflash!

Excavation work has begun in the forests outside Wałbrzych to determine the existence of a Nazi train purported to be filled with gold. With World War II dragging to an end, some sources claim that a 150-meter train departed Wrocław – then known as Breslau – packed with over 300 tons of gold before being hidden in a secret network of tunnels drilled into the Sowa mountains. The story has fascinated historians and treasure hunters for decades, though many had begun to dismiss it as little more than a myth. Then, in August, two explorers announced that they had discovered the site of the train sparking a media frenzy that catapulted Wałbryzch into the global limelight. With the area now secured, two teams have been granted permission to use ground-penetrating radar in a bid to solve the mystery once and for all.

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Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2015

PHOTOGRAPH TOP LEFT SHUTTERSTOCK, OTHERS KEVIN DEMARIA

In Solidarity

We wish You

Delicious Christmas

R E S T A U R A C J A varsovie.mdm PLAC KONSTYTUCJI 2 REZERWACJE +48 22 622 24 72

things to do Happy Families inFront

The incredible Dinosaurs Live exhibition gets you up close and personal with 40 dinosaurs presented on a scale of 1:1. And these aren’t bones you’re looking at, rather massive creatures that move and go ‘rargh’. Making use of the latest technological advances, the scope and scale of this animatronic spectacle is totally Jurassic and reduces all who visit to stunned gasps of awe.

Respect to the T-Rex!

So named due to its previous incarnation as a place where aeroplanes sleep, Hangar 646 touts 50 interlinked trampolines, a ping pong zone, ball pools and even a snowboard slide where visitors hurtle down a ramp before splashing down on an inflatable mattress. The first place of its kind in Warsaw, this 2,700 sq/m space is the final word in family entertainment – and a chance to burn-off the Christmas pudding.

National Stadium, ul. Poniatowskiego 1, dinozaurynazywo.pl.

Admission zł. 30/20

ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 646, hangar646.pl.

Admission zł. 34/29 per hour.

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Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2015

COURTESY OF COORDINATORS

The biggest hazard at Christmas is cabin fever: we find five solutions to get the family out of the house and from each other’s throats.

Family Time in Benihana Restaurant There are special occasions like birthday parties and one-off events that are based around quality time with family and friends. Why not combine that with wonderful Japanese food, top quality produce, hilarious chefs who really know how to cook, a thrilling teppanyaki show and other attractions like a kid’s room

equipped with amusing toys – you’ll get all that and more at Benihana!

With its unforgettable atmosphere, Benihana is the perfect place for all the family – from the very youngest up – to enjoy a magical experience. Keeping our little guests in mind, we’re also proud of our kid friendly menu which

includes our bestselling Chicken Pokémon: chicken and chips! Each Sunday a qualified animator joins us to brighten up the restaurant during our Sunday family dinner – see you in Benihana!

Benihana Restaurant – Japanese cuisine, teppan grill and sushi ul. Twarda 4 (Cosmopolitan Tower), www.benihanapoland.com Reservations: tel. 22 370 2620, restauracja@benihanapoland.com

things to do

The organizers call Van Gogh Alive ‘a vibrant symphony of light, color and sound,’ and sure, what awaits quickly takes the sting out of the admission fee. Not even Van Gogh’s mind could have ever imagined such a thing: walk, bewildered almost, amid giant, shifting projections of the artist’s work while accompanied by a moody classical score. With over 3,000 images bursting from the floors, ceilings and walls, it’s a thrilling day that immerses people into the artist’s world – and vice versa.

The term ‘winter wonderland’ could have been coined with the National Stadium in mind. Walking up an avenue of Christmas trees and wooden stalls, visitors arrive to the state-of-the-art stadium which, each winter, finds its pitch transformed into a vast ice rink whose principal pull is an ‘ice hill’ down which budding skaters zoom. The attractions are manifold and include the ice bar with its mulled wine, disco nights and frequent shows that involve things like daredevil skaters leaping over skidding rally cars.

Wrap-up warm and head to Wilanów Palace’s Garden of Light. Set in the extensive gardens, visitors crunch over the frost through a series of outdoor attractions that involve Baroque parkland cascading with 300,000 lights. Accompanied by the sounds of Tchaikovsky, walk through the Garden of Imagination before arriving to the Magic Garden: giant plants and illuminated animals loom overhead, creating an effect that’s utterly enchanting – even more so when the snow starts falling on this extraordinary kingdom.

National Stadium, ul. Poniatowskiego 1, vangoghalive.pl.

Admission zł. 60/0.

National Stadium, ul. Poniatowskiego 1, zimowynarodowy.pl.

Admission zł. 15/10.

Wilanów Palace, ul. Potockiego 10/16, open from 4 p.m. to 9 p.m.

Admission zł. 10/5.

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COURTESY OF COORDINATORS,(2), RIGHT BY GIL BOELMAN-BURROWS

inFront

inFront

abroad

Bear Arms

A new statue in Edinburgh celebrates the life of Wojtek, a ‘soldier bear’ who fought at Monte Cassino alongside Polish troops… BY STUART DOWELL | PHOTO BY GEORGE MARCZEK

L

iving in Warsaw, most of us are probably familiar with at least two bears: those that choke on exhaust fumes all day in a concrete pit outside Warsaw Zoo, and the white polar bear that is said to stalk the streets in the depths of winter.

The recent unveiling in Edinburgh of a bronze statue of Wojtek the Soldier Bear, however, has helped raise awareness, if any were necessary, of Poland’s most famous and best-loved bear – and the help and support provided to the project by long-term Warsaw resident and business owner Lawrence Fahrenholz meant that our city was proudly represented at the unveiling. In fact, Lawrence, the Scottish-born son of a soldier in General Maczek’s 1st Armoured Division, was a special guest and attended the official reception.

In 1942, Wojtek was bought from a shepherd boy in Syria by soldiers that would later form General Anders’ 2nd Corps

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and who had travelled from the depths of the Soviet Union, through the deserts of the Middle East to join up with the Allies in North Africa. The bear soon learned how to live among people and drank powdered milk, and later beer, smoked cigarettes and wrestled with those brave enough to take him on.

Wojtek’s renown among the men was enhanced one night in Palestine when he confronted a bewildered Arab thief in the ammunition compound. However, it was only in Egypt that he was given the rank of private after it turned out that animals were not allowed on Allied transport ships going to Italy. Wojtek’s comrades immediately managed to organize a paybook, rank and serial number, and thus Wojtek went on his way to where his legendary status would be sealed: Monte Cassino.

After the battle the official badge of Wojtek’s unit, the 22nd Transport Company, was changed to depict Wojtek walking with a shell. That’s a tribute to Wojtek’s own role in the battle: seeing what the men were doing, and perhaps sensing the tension and urgency, he would pick up crates of munitions and place them closer to the cannons, thereby doing his bit in a battle in which the Poles eventually triumphed.

After the war, he was demobilized with the rank of corporal, and was eventually settled in Edinburgh Zoo. Other 22nd Corps soldiers who had settled in the region after the war would visit Wojtek at the zoo, and as Lawrence says, “local children would learn Polish phrases to get Wojtek’s attention, like chodź Wojtku”. One of the surprising features of the Wojtek memorial is its prominent position in Edinburgh’s Princes Street Gardens. However, Lawrence explains: “I think there’s a sense of guilt that Poles were not given the credit due for their contribution to the Allied cause”. It’s heartening to think that this venerable old Syrian bear is still making a valuable contribution to Poland, a country he never placed a paw in, as he did on the battlefields of Italy during World War II.

inFront

gifts

Secret Santa

It’s always the little gifts that are the problem – but finding something fun, affordable and relevant to the city is no longer asking the impossible…

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Decoration

Hellowawa (hellowawa.pl) How about having the Palace of Culture in your own home then? Twenty-four centimeters in height, this paper cutout model is a fond return to the good old days of making things with scissors and glue! From zł. 10.

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Puzzles

Product Place_ment (ul.

Leszczyńska 12) Swat up on your geographic knowledge of Warsaw with this wooden puzzle – that’s not just a random collection of jigsaw pieces you see, rather the separate districts of Warsaw. A stocking filler essential!

From zł. 65.

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Ceramics

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Accessories

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Product Place_ment (ul.

Leszczyńska 12) Forget the Happy Socks every gent is donning as a sign of their extrovert eccentricity, this season’s mustgrab are Palace of Culture socks! Created to coincide with PKiN’s 60th birthday, these dapper garments are yours for zł. 30…

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Art

Wawa Bla Bla (ul. Dobra 15) Created by British ex-pat Gill as a personal paean to the street artists changing the face of Warsaw, this tiny gift store is filled with her framed photos of the capital’s wall art, as well as one-off pieces from the artists themselves.

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Books

Hellowawa (hellowawa.pl) Created for the superb Hellowawa online gift store by the Koko studio, find a number of colorful mugs and assorted ceramics that fuse elements of Polish folk art with Warsaw related landmarks and legends.

From zł. 35.

Celebrating the architecture of Żoliborz, Mokotów and Saska Kępa, this cult series of books are presented in Polish and English and accompanied by truly beautiful graphics. Find ŻOL, MOK and SAS available in specialist bookstores like Fundacja Bęc Zmiana.

PHOTOGRAPHY

Let There Be… Light!

The stunning images of Light At Night have won a fleet of admirers online. This month Jakub Jurkowski, the man behind the camera, offers his thoughts and insights on his work…

• My adventures with photography began with astrophotography; then I moved onto classical landscapes and discovered that night shoots really fueled my desire for further shoots – more so than any other types of scene. As I developed my skills I gravitated more towards the sunset/ sunrise and twilight hours – but even so, night remains an important part of my work.

• I decided to step up my game and create a brand of sorts for myself. I didn’t want my name to be associated with standard ‘photography’, and I also wanted to create something broader which had the potential for expansion into other fields: that’s how Light At Night came to be.

• I’ve always thought of myself as being more of an impressionist than a reporter, and that perspective allows me

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Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2015

to look at something mundane and think, man, how do I make that look really cool? I want to show Warsaw as the great city it is, regardless of its hard past, and add some of my own style on top of that. I want people to look at these photos and appreciate living here.

• I wander around the city looking for good spots for shoots; when I find something interesting I often return just to see what angles I can get and work out which lenses I’ll need so that I’ll be fully prepared when time is tight.

For all the thinking, researching and planning, at the end of the day I’m in the hands of nature. If conditions are favorable then I’ll tend to sit at a location for a couple of hours waiting for the best light. Of course, many shoots rely on luck: it’s about being in the right place at the right time plus some amount of skill.

• I think post-processing is a good way to distinguish yourself from other photographers as it allows the chance to add a signature look to your work. I really enjoy this part of the creative process as I can put as much time into a particular picture as I wish. Most time consuming is eradicating things like noise or dealing with low dynamic range, then I like to play around a bit with global and local contrast and color before finally enhancing details by sharpening them. I never publish composites containing elements that weren’t part of an original scene: e.g. if you see the moon in my images then it was actually there!

Check Jakub’s work at: facebook.com/LightAtNightKJ

www.warsawinsider.pl

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OLD TOWN PUB CRAWL

17:30

20:15

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The Christmas Spirit

With the party period upon us, the Insider rediscovers the highs and lows of an Old Town pub crawl…

BY ALEX WEBBER | PHOTOS BY ED WIGHT

17.30 Bar & Books

(Wąski Dunaj 20)

19:45

Acutely aware that there’s a small risk the night might end with us picking our way through a sea of smashed barstools, there’s a team decision to get the classy joint out of the way first. That place is Bar & Books, an immaculate gatehouse reprised as a colonial-style cocktail bar. Ringing the buzzer for entry, we’re ushered inside by a flawless host who is a throwback to the time bar staff were dapper gentlemen as opposed to hipster bozos with DJ aspirations. A place of twinkling candles and spooling Bond films, we ease our way into the evening with elaborate orders of fancy alcohols.

It feels convivial and classic but most of all adult: the kind of bar where conversation is valued over carnage. The geniality of it all hangs in the air like the wisps of cigar smoke that weave gently past.

We don’t want to leave this cocoon of sophistication.

19.30 Piwna Kompania (Podwale 25)

23:00

But the crawl must begin. The restaurant / beer hall Kompania Piwna comes next, and along with it the realization there’s a queue to get in. A pleasant manager allows us straight past the huddled masses, but only to scope out the place.

What we see is bad news: big it might be, but every single guest looks comfortably embedded for a long night ahead. Schnitzels the shape of bicycle wheels and outsized beers threaten to tip the tables, and the atmosphere of merry chaos is www.warsawinsider.pl

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OLD TOWN PUB CRAWL further augmented by a circulating oompah band. Realizing that not one square inch is free we wave the white flag and continue the trail.

19.45 Elephant Belgian Pub (Freta 19)

Most people love Belgian beer, just like most people resent forking out 30 odd złoty for the cheapest tapped pint. With one beer downed I corral the others while repeating the importance of the need to keep moving. In fact, the next round of beers is on me and this is merely a deceitful maneuver to save on some coins. Great place this, but not if you’re buying for everyone else.

20.15 Same Krafty

(Nowomiejska 10)

Finally, everything goes to plan in Same Krafty. In design, it looks like a rundown pizza restaurant (and in part it is), but the place is heaving and everyone’s having fun. It’s a tight squeeze but we make it into the tap bar at the back and quickly fall in with a group of holidaying window cleaners – there’s spicy stories aplenty and it’s a great few hours spent inside a lively little bar that’s happy in its skin.

crowd you can tell might not actually make it to the club part of the night.

24:00 Bar Warszawa De Luxe (Krakowskie Przedmieście 79)

Woah. What we enter reminds me of a Polish wedding disco. All the requisite characters appear in this spinning vortex of Boney M: vodka-fuelled Incredible Hulks, groping granddads, svelte students and everyone else in between. Somehow, the formula works without a hitch. There are Poles who’d be mortified by this representation of their country, but the truth is, it’s a riproaring time that’s enjoyed by most.

02:00 Bar Warszawa (Miodowa 2)

The last hurrah! For that we wobble our way to De Luxe’s sister joint around the corner, a small split-level bar with squelching floors and lots of bang and clacker. It’s that awkward stage of the

23:00 Shamrocks

(Rynek Starego Miasto 29/31)

A Polish-run Irish pub presents the biggest gamble of the night. A subterranean spider’s web of tunnels, customers are out in force tonight to listen to what appears to be a Status Quo tribute act.

“More like Status Q-woeful,” grumbles one of the lads. We look on the bright side: maybe the Guinness will be great, we think, but it turns out it isn’t. One sip and we’re out.

23.20 Karmnik (Piwna 4A)

An old favorite with a new look. A bit of tinkering with the interior has lent a new impetus to the place: we slug on artisan cocktails while a DJ entertains a pre-club

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23:20

night where strangers either want to be your best friend forever or kick your nose off, so thankfully, here it’s the former: at one point, even the bouncer joins the random carousel of pidgin conversation.

None of us remember why, but then it doesn’t really matter. All that does is that Old Town has proven itself to be more than just a daylight collection of Disneyesque spires and buskers on bongos.

SURVIVAL SUSTENANCE At one point, starvation will set in.

If you can snag a table then Piwna Kompania is the bottom line in hefty soakage: portions aren’t so much pleasing as they are terrifying.

Around the Rynek, the sausages sold at the Christmas stalls won’t win prizes, but they do fulfil their role. The pizza in Same Krafty is a surprise, in that it’s actually very decent, while Bar Warszawa plays the Polish card well with plump meaty dumplings and slithers of herring: the head says no, the heart says yes – do it and order.

24:00

02:00

www.warsawinsider.pl

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HOLIDAY FOOD

Consider the Carp

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Chef Aleksander Baron talks about his attempts to rehabilitate the reputation of Poland’s official Christmas fish – the carp…

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From my family, it’s only my mother and myself that eat the heads – we love them...

• Carp has a few PR issues. Firstly, it’s got bones… lots and lots of bones. If you asked me a chef’s secret tip, I’d tell you in heartbeat: get someone else to debone it! The second problem carp has is its taste. Most people buy carp that’s been farmed and fed with corn, and that corn taste will always come through. On top of that, carp is associated with mud, slime and ooze, and again that can carry through to the final taste. Actually, that’s why in the PRL days you’d find Poles keeping their carp in the bathtub: to filter out the mud.

• The most remarkable carp I’ve ever had was in the Canton province in China. I was served carp heads that were soft and delicate yet at the same time spicy – a brilliant contrast. As for my first memory of the fish, that’s probably from when I was about five or six years old. It was right at the start of my family’s Christmas Eve celebrations and I got a carp bone stuck down my throat. I didn’t tell my parents because I was worried they’d take me to hospital, but at the same time I couldn’t eat a thing – imagine that, I’d been looking forward to Christmas Eve for ages and then I couldn’t eat! I remember sitting at the table stressing, wondering if I’d even survive!

• From my family, it’s only my mother and myself that eat the heads – we love them. I also like the texture of the cheeks, as well as that bit between the head and the gills: it’s almost like jelly. It’s not my intention to cook foods that some people think are strange, I just simply want to cook everything – if an animal has been killed for me then I think it’s only right to use every last bit of it.

• Some of my carp menu was influenced by Polish Baroque cuisine. That was actually more in line with Indian food than anything else, with lots of spices like cinnamon, ginger, cardamom, etc. In part, Poles of that era liked cooking with those ingredients to demonstrate their wealth, though hiding the taste of bad meat was also a consideration.

My carp bigos involves a lot of these things: orange zest, ginger, turmeric, raisins, a touch of honey. I see it as a modern interpretation of a historic dish. Other parts of my tasting menu – for instance the soft roe – were completely my idea. I never saw this menu as being a risk. The beaver menu we had in October was a huge success, and I feel I’m at this beautiful stage of my life where my ideas are working, or at least 90% of them are. Recently, it feels like everything is coming together like magic!

• For me carp is one of the best fishes around: the meat, the fat, just brilliant. But you have to get the proper stuff.

But where can you find good carp at Christmas? Honestly,

that’s a really hard question as you won’t know what you’ll like until you actually try it …

•Like everything, the worst thing you can do to a carp is overcook it. In terms of home cooking, the biggest mistake people make is frying the fish with oil. You have to use butter, clarified butter or maybe even animal fat – but never, ever oil. Importantly, I always say that to cook carp correctly you need to love it. If you don’t love what you’re cooking then it’ll never taste good.

For the duration of December, Aleksander will be offering a four-course tasting menu based around carp for zł. 120 at his restaurant, Solec 44. For details, see: solec.waw.pl www.warsawinsider.pl

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CHURCHES PAST AND PRESENT

Holier Than Thou

More than places of worship, Warsaw’s churches hold some of the strangest secrets in the city.

This issue we pick out the peculiar and salute their quirks…

In a country filled with stunning churches, NMP fails to stand out… at least at face value. One of two Catholic churches to fall inside the Ghetto, it was rebuilt in 1956 following war damage. Then, five years later, plans to widen the street saw the whole thing jacked-up on the night of November 30th and shifted back on rails by some 21-meters. How’s that for engineering!

PHOTOS THIS PAGE PAP,

The Past

NMP CHURCH (Al. Solidarności 80)

ST. AUGUSTINE (ul. Nowolipki 18)

When the Jewish Ghetto was sealed this neo-Gothic curiosity found itself right in the middle. When the Ghetto was liquidated Augustine’s became a storehouse for looted goods, and was spared being razed on account of its 70-meter tower: a useful observation point and sniper’s nest. The sight of this church standing amid a sea of rubble remains one of iconic images of WWII.

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Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2015

ALEXANDER NEVSKY CATHEDRAL (Pl. Piłsudskiego)

Planted outside Saski Palace, this onion-domed Russian Orthodox cathedral was once the tallest building in town and a reminder to Poles as to who called the shots. With Polish independence regained, the decision was made to blow it to smithereens. Demolition was conducted between 1924 and 1926, with special bonds sold that allowed regular Poles to join the fun. Bits of the original have since made their way to Praga’s Orthodox church.

ST. ALEXANDER (ul. Książęca 21)

A modest shadow of what it once was, St. Alexander’s was originally completed in 1825 with an extravagant style that mimicked the Roman pantheon. Plans for the 1863 Uprising against Russian rule were hatched here, and decades later its role as the seat of the Institute for the Deaf made it the perfect meeting point for Allied spies during WWII. It was rebuilt post-war without its signature pointy spires.

www.warsawinsider.pl

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CHURCHES PAST AND PRESENT

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Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2015

The Present (Clockwise from top left)

ST. ANTHONY OF PADUA (ul. Senatorska 31/33)

Founded by King Zygmunt III after a military victory at Smolensk in 1623, this unsung beauty is best noted for its serene, shaded cloisters that house hundreds of cracked and fading tablets dedicated to both 19th century bigwigs and 20th century insurgents who fell in the Warsaw Uprising. Walking amid the memorials is a deeply solemn experience.

POLISH ARMY CATHEDRAL (ul. Długa 13/15)

Signposted by the anchor and propeller outside – a nod to the air force and the navy – the army cathedral is heavy on symbolic militaria. Before marching into battle, scores of Polish combatants took their oath here during the ’44 Uprising. Today, points of interest include a shimmering shrine composed of thousands of donated medals and decorations.

ST. JOHN’S CATHEDRAL (ul. Świętojańska 8)

Warsaw’s most important place of worship, and the sight of royal funerals, coronations and marriages. It was here, also, that the first European Constitution was signed on May 3rd, 1791. It was practically flattened in 1944, something commemorated by a track from a German remote-controlled Goliath tank – find that embedded into an outside wall.

ST. JACEK

(ul. Freta 8/10)

Home to ‘the last mass in Warsaw’, so-called not because the city has given up on religion, rather due to the late hour of their Sunday service: 9.30 p.m. In 1655 peace negotiations with the marauding Swedes were held in the refectory, while WWII saw 1,000 die inside when it was hit by the Nazis – a few pockmarked relics survive to this day.

OUR LADY OF GRACE (ul. Świętojańska 10)

First, the doors: beautiful things depicting winged angels.

Designed by Igor Mitoraj, these were added in 2009. Then, take a look at the bear outside: that’s actually a prince turned to stone – he’s waiting for the love of his life to restore him to manhood.

Finally, inside, the portrait of Our Lady of Grace is said to possess miraculous properties.

CHURCH OF THE HOLY CROSS (ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 3)

Marked out by the sculpture of Jesus lugging a cross, it’s here that King Jan Sobieski III announced his faith in God in 1683 before riding to Vienna to vanquish the Turks. It is more famous, however, for being the home of Chopin’s heart. That’s preserved in cognac inside a crystal jar that lies encased inside a column.

www.warsawinsider.pl

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TRAVEL CHRISTMAS BREAKS

The Great Getaway

M

issed the plane home this Christmas?

You wouldn’t be the first one – if anything, doing so is something of an ex-pat rite of passage. But staying in Poland for the holidays shouldn’t necessarily mean brooding in Warsaw. Escape the humdrum hotel brunches and other routine, tedious traditions by heading out of the capital for a trip with a twist. This issue we spin the compass and dig out seven nuggets guaranteed to make this winter one of the most memorable you could have...

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Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2015

MAP BY MICHAŁ MISZKURKA

Whether you’re looking for a full recharge over the holiday season, or just fancy a change of scene away from Warsaw, we sort through the best options out there…

Arłamów

ARŁAMÓW HOTEL Ustrzyki Dolne

Not a bad life being a political big cheese in communist times: the privileged few got to stay in places like Arłamów, a hideaway that was so secret that all mention of it was removed from maps of Poland. Back in those days, lucky visitors may have bumped into guests like Tito, or members of the Cuban harem that was kept on-site to gratify dignitaries. Just think of poor Lech Wałęsa, he spent six months imprisoned here after Martial Law was declared in the 80s.

While it’s been revamped since those days, the approach remains the same: down a hair razing road that dips then rises dramatically before concluding at the foot of this vast complex. From afar, the sheer scale of Arłamów makes it the ideal location for a Polish remake of The Shining, though inside its anything but creepy. A massive bout of investment has endowed it with a rich stockpile of facilities: shooting ranges, an indoor equestrian center, ski complex and a swimming pool / wellness area with swooning views of the Bieszczady Mountains.

Gadzooks, the place even has its own landing strip and power station. The perfect pad for a Bond baddie, its simply got to be seen to be believed.

“ From afar, the

sheer scale of Arłamów makes it the ideal location for a Polish remake of The Shining”

Arłamów, arlamow.pl, doubles from zł. 320

HOTEL ALTER Lublin

If you think of money as something that grows on trees, then a weekend in Hotel Alter’s Piotr Boniecki’s suite is a must. Named after the first recorded tenant of the building, a 16th century goldsmith, this 88 sq/m splurge comes with its own fireplace and the kind of bathroom you’d see in a Kanye West video. The other rooms ain’t too shabby either. Connecting the past with the future, this is a world class design that’s full of pristine parquet, cherry wood veneer and buffed brickwork. It’s a visual pleasure, but also a spiritual one as well: descend down to the medieval cellars to soak up the holistic ambiance of the wellness center, a beautiful area whose most striking feature is a narrow swimming pool replete with a water curtain and geyser. You emerge brand new.

Hotel Alter

www.warsawinsider.pl

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TRAVEL CHRISTMAS BREAKS Quadrille

But the best thing? All this is in Lublin’s old town, an area of wriggly, cobbled streets and chocolate box tenements. Seen on a frosty night, with snowflakes tumbling down, it all feels preposterously romantic: muffled against the chill, with distant laughter pouring from fogged up bars, Lublin is a thrilling moonlight walk that’s full of Christmas spirit. “Maybe,” you find yourself thinking, “there’s enough left on my Visa for just one more night...” ul. Grodzka 30, Lublin, hotelalter.pl, doubles from zł. 550

QUADRILLE Gdynia

“ This stately home has been reinvented as a luxury getaway with an Alice in Wonderland motif”

Carska

As candidates for a festive break go, they rarely get more unlikely than Gdynia. But that’s part of the point. If it’s a full recharge you’re after, then consider the Quadrille.

Book their 3-night Christmas package (zł. 2,840 per couple) and they promise in return “no Santa, no noise, no kids activities – just delicious food, good vibes and full relaxation.” It’s no surprise to find them opting for something a little different. Set in its own manicured parkland, this onetime stately home has been reinvented as a luxury getaway and spa with an Alice in Wonderland motif.

Completely unforgettable, Quadrille’s playful design is a hallucination you’ll never want to end. Yet for all the white rabbits and underground tunnels, the underlying point is dead serious: this is a place where guests want for nothing. You’d be as mad as a hatter to leave, but if you do, then Gdańsk’s Christmas market is fairy tale stuff; closer to your digs, then a bracing walk by the grey Baltic Sea can be oddly refreshing. ul. Folwarczna 2, quadrille.pl. doubles from zł. 320

CARSKA Białowieża

So it’s something out of the ordinary you’re after, yes?

Then how about reviving the era of Tolstoy and the Tsar? Once a favorite hunting area for Russian royalty, in 1903 the decision was made to construct a wooden train station at Białowieza Towarowa specifically to meet the travel whims of Tsar Nicholas II. His last recorded visit came in 1915, and while the station managed to survive the tribulations posed by both war and peace, it wasn’t until the structure’s centenary year that it was given an overdue grooming. Sometimes, though, these things are worth the wait…

Remodeled as a hotel and restaurant, the results are everything you imagine and a tiny bit more: a steam engine sits on a rail siding, it’s adjoining saloon wagons repurposed as wood-paneled accommodation with claw-footed bathtubs; a nearby water tower houses two apartments, their voluptuous decorations involving heavy wood beds and portraits of beady eyed monarchs.

Immersed in all this history, it’s not difficult to imagine Anastasia herself gliding into the ornate main hall.

If it stopped there you’d be happy, but it doesn’t. The restaurant is a standout, its menu a celebration of local catches and big gamey dishes, while the Russian ‘banya’ is best enjoyed with a group of friends and a vodka or three. After, take in the surrounding forest and wildlife on a sleigh ride, and then return for an open-air fire and a spit-roasted boar. On returning to Warsaw, the tendency is to pinch yourself: “did all that really happen?”

Stacja Towarowa 4, carska.pl, doubles from zł. 360

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Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2015

“ The unique identity of the Polish Tatra mountains is left intact but given an updated look”

Villa 11

VILLA 11 FOLK & DESIGN Zakopane

Nothing says winter in Poland more than a trip to Zakopane. Krupówki, the sloping pedestrian street that cuts through town, is the big must-see, even if the touristy stampede can prickle at your patience. Away from the herd, a more sophisticated side to this ski resort reveals itself in Villa 11. Occupying a pretty wood-framed chalet, the good taste on display consciously abandons the hackneyed banality of the town center. The unique identity of the Polish Tatra mountains is left intact but given an updated look: lots of folksy patterns and heavy blocks of wood but presented in a way that’s light and fresh – modern while never feeling anything but genuine and organic. Mostly though, Villa 11 is a place that warms the soul – at times, quite literally. Toast yourself in the Finnish sauna and then chill down in the soothing relaxation zone. Retreating to your room, the sense of decompression is completed by ample balconies that – if you’ve requested so – stare out onto the rugged peaks of the snow-coated Tatras. ul. Broniewski 11, villa11.pl, doubles from zł. 250

ZAMEK TOPACZ Wrocław

A place of stooping townhouses and curving canals, there are times when Wrocław feels like it was made of magic.

This is never truer than in winter, when one of Poland’s best Christmas markets takes over the old town. Browse the wooden cabins for mittens, gingerbread and things you don’t need before ordering piping hot wine and sausages from any number of stalls: it’s the very definition of festive. So what rotten luck then that Wrocław fails dismally when it comes to atmospheric hotels. Yes, there are stylish stays aplenty, just not many that capture that special essence of the season. Zamek Topacz saves the day. Set twenty minutes from the center, this complex has benefited from a recent spruce; rooms are dapper

and warm, but forget all that, the pull here is that you’re staying in a castle. A castle! Granted, it’s not the kind of creaky Gothic monster you may wish for, but nonetheless it’s a stately pile of sprawling lawns and charming little alcoves (one of which houses a vintage car museum).

And it’s fully geared for Christmas, with three day packages that include celebratory dinners and an outdoor bonfire. ul. Głowna 12, zamektopacz.pl, doubles from zł. 230

HOTEL VINCENT Kazimierz Dolny

Plopped in between the Wisła on one side and a steep gully on the other, it’s easy to see the appeal of Kazimierz Dolny. Once a wealthy merchant town, the Kazimierz of today prospers thanks to a tourist industry reliant on wealthy Varsovians out for the weekend. They’re here to enjoy a majestic little town that bristles with ornate burgher houses and renaissance trimmings. The crowds, which at times threaten to sink Kazimierz, thin out in winter, making it the best time to visit – savor postcard perfect views from the castle hill before returning to the Vincent, a charming guesthouse with a Provencestyle spirit. Rooms are a vanilla white affair, and have a boutique, Laura Ashley accent that’s just ideal for an evening spent tucked up in bed with a bit of Christmas reading. As tempting as it is to stay holed up for the rest of the night, extract yourself and head downstairs to the restaurant and bar. Trained by Wojciech Amaro, Warsaw’s very own Michelin starred demi-God, the chefs here have created a cracking little menu with a contemporary spin. But hold it right there! Before you finish, remember it’s almost obligatory to leave a tiny little morsel for Josephine, the bushy Maine Coon that prowls between the tables like a snooty pampered brat. With the cat appeased, settle in for a night of wine and conversation in this warm, winter cranny. ul. Krakowska 11, pensjonatvincent.pl, doubles from zł. 160 www.warsawinsider.pl

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LISTINGS RESTAURANTS 44 CAFES & WINE BARS 75 NIGHTLIFE 80 SHOPPING 89 FAMILY 95 HEALTH & BEAUTY 101 IN THE CITY 104

Sweet Dreams

Deseo is not an easy place to visit.

Greeted by the sight of Piotr Chylarecki’s gleaming confections, guests first marvel and then agonize over the choice spread out in front. Twinkling like forbidden fruit, these sweets are a work of absolute alchemy, precisely crafted and constructed in the laboratory out back. Offering moments of pure poetic pleasure, the magic that Chylarecki weaves offers an exquisite escape from the weariness of winter…

Deseo

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

ul. Angorska 27 & Nowy Świat 28, deseopatisserie.com

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Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2015

Loco Mexicano: two sides of the story – brill beer, not so good food…

HEAD TO HEAD Loco Mexicana (ul. Grójecka 27) Pros: service, prices and beer. There’s something like 12 taps, which on our visit included a brilliant offer from Hopium. No point trying anything else when this brewery is on the line-up.

Cons: the food, for a start. You know you’re in trouble when the waitress tells you Russian Pierogi are the deal of the day. Despite the blinking hazard lights we went for Mexican: a dry, stodgy burrito, a watery mango habanero salsa and enchiladas described

by Colleague No. 1 as being ‘like the food you’d eat on campus.’

Verdict: poor food, great beer. But whatever you’re here for, the acid trip design will leave your head whirring.

Barn Smoque (ul. Zgoda 5)

Pros: loved the food. Top points for the Fuck Crack Bacon (bacon strips fried in beer batter), and the Mexican side of the menu is also on the right track.

There’s no word if the ex-Top Gear lads enjoyed their trip here last month, but on this showing you don’t see why not.

Cons: wishy washy interior and a bad layout. It’s only open three minutes but the design deserves to be sent back to the drawing board.

Verdict: they nail the atmosphere, food and drink. Tex Mex might sounds like a 90s term, but Warsaw has never had better. Are we going back? You bet.

It might blow holes in your heart, but this is food the way we love it.

Barn Smoque: the picture that says it all – simple stuff done well.

WEB WATCH:

Ostra Kuchnia

The heat, it appears, is finally on. While a sizeable chunk of the population still views ketchup as the devil’s work, a growing number of converts are discovering the thrill of dousing anything that’s edible in a thick coat of napalm. Fast-tracking them to heaven / hell are the bods at Ostra Kuchnia, a cult online store whose sauces go from entry level (e.g. Blair’s Jalapeno Death, High River Tears of the Sun) to kamikaze concoctions that leave flames trailing from orifices (e.g. Dave’s Ultimate Insanity, Vicious Viper and One Fuckin’ Drop at a Time…).

There’s more. Also dealing in extracts, jalapenos and fiery snacks, ostrakuchnia. pl (Polish language only) has become an essential bookmark for hotheads in Poland. And if you think you can do better yourself, feel free to try – around 35 strains of chili are available for order. Insider tip: keep your hands out of your pants after. www.warsawinsider.pl

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REVIEWS BOTTLE WATCH:

Cool for Cats

i

Good taste and cool living…

t’s hard not to notice that there’s always something cool going on in Powiśle. I was recently strolling Solec and came across a rather Cool Cat: not the proverbial hipster or a jazz aficionado, but a restaurant of that name hiding behind a sign advertising a pole dancing studio. Intimidated at first by the sight of real hipsters in the window, I assured myself that hipsters, like ghosts, are sometimes good, sometimes bad, and that the only way to determine which is what is to show no fear. Opening the door I was greeted by a smile from behind the bar and the soulful prowess of Lee Fields singing Walk On Thru That Door – I knew I’d be fine.

Once seated I found it a little cholesterol-alarming that three of the five mains offered were tartare, beef guts and fried bacon – and of the other two, only one didn’t have bacon. I chose to go with that one, deer on gnocchi with beets, roasted eggplant and a fried egg. Waiting, I listened to the two waiters having a musical standoff over the restaurant laptop: a good piece of unintended entertainment. As for the food, that was the complete opposite of what I expected but totally enjoyable: a genuine piece of (plate) art that was as delicious as it looked – perfectly cooked deer surrounded by creative ingredients that complemented it well. All in all, a successful experience that I look forward to repeating. (KD) Cool Cat

ul. Solec 38, facebook.com/thecoolcatbar

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Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2015

The Brewery: founded in 2012 (on September 20th they proudly emphasize), Pracownia Piwa was the creation of three friends looking to make a living out of their hobby. Thus far they’ve succeeded. Based close to Kraków, in the village of Modlniczka, the brewery’s humble beginnings are a distant memory. Now regarded by enthusiasts as one of the core Polish breweries, their success has led to the launch of two bars: Tap House in Kraków and Hoppiness here in Warsaw.

The Beer: where to begin.

Consistent big hitters in their range have included IPAs such as Dwa Smoki and Huncwot, not to mention the fabulously roasty Mr. Hard’s Rocks imperial stout. But the categorical classic? Hey Now, an American wheat which, whilst never breaking boundaries, has been declared by some as being ‘almost the ideal wheat beer’.

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

Pracownia Piwa

The Light Stuff The right lighting is everything: and that’s never truer than now. With the days getting shorter, add an ambient twist to your apartment by visiting Cotton Ball Lamps. Offering 40 different varieties and colors of cotton-wrapped bulbs, these simple lights stand to transform your living space with their soft, gentle glow. Highly adaptable, and capable of slotting into any context, overhauling the whole mood of your home has never been easier‌ Cotton Ball Lamps

ul. Chmielna 27/31, cottonballlights.pl

www.warsawinsider.pl

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REVIEWS The Next Step

SHOEPASSION.com, the esteemed German footwear manufacturer, have touched down in Warsaw, making the Polish capital their first international retail location in the process. Specializing in Goodyear-welted dress shoes, their exclusive line pairs French and German leather with Spanish craftsmanship to produce a range of timeless classics that don’t just look the part, but are guaranteed to survive the vagaries of the Polish weather.

SHOEPASSION.com

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

ul. Krucza 46, shoepassion.com

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Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2015

SEASONAL SIPS

When does the festive season come alive? For me, it’s in Warsaw’s Old Town, perusing the outdoor Christmas market while the first fluffy snowflakes fall from the sky.

But the secret ingredient that really joins the dots? That’ll be mulled wine, available in the town square from the cabins that fringe the ice rink. Sweet, sticky and scalding hot, grzane wino is the definitive tipple of the Polish winter. Of course, the stuff you’ll find in the Old Town won’t be the best: made using wine of the lowest common denominator, it’s more about general merriment than taste. Instead, real devotees head further afield: the majority of bars and restaurants will be serving their own Polish version of ‘Christmas in a mug’, though we’ve yet to find any better than that in Folk Gospoda or Café Próżna.

i

The Art Of Chinkali Dining goes upside down

t’s not often you see a sign in a language other than Polish or English on the streets of Warsaw, so I like that Chinkali has a dual language shingle hanging out to let Georgian brethren know they are there to offer them the comforts of home. While I’m not Georgian, there’s something I love about the place: the warmth of the food, culture and hospitality. And while there’s been a surge of Georgian venues in town, what I like about this place is that it feels a little more modern than your typical ethnic outpost. As a place to stop in and meet friends it works just right – there’s a sense of pleasure about the place.

Nuts and raisins are laid out while you wait, and when our meat chinkali arrived our waiter made sure we knew how to eat them (grab the nipple-shaped top, turn them upside down, take a bite from the side and then suck out the meaty broth). From previous trips to Tbilisi I knew that these were the real deal right away (others, such as mushroom and cheese chinkali were coined for outsiders). One thing that can be said about Chinkali is that the food has that homemade quality, so while it is authentic and tasty, the consistency can vary from time to time.

I’m suspecting the kitchen rotates cooks and that each has their own method, but either way, the results are always delicious. And a final tip: don’t miss the red bean chachapuri washed down with a mouthwash-colored tarragon lemonade. (KD) Chinkali

ul. Zgoda 3, facebook.com/bistrochinkali www.warsawinsider.pl

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Partner News The latest marketplace news from the Warsaw Insider’s friends and advertisers…

Give The Gift Of Bali

Stuck for ideas this Christmas?

Then how about a voucher/ gift card from Bali Spa? Let our Balinese therapists pamper you with authentic Balinese and Thai massages, full body rituals, facials, hot stone treatments, etc. inside sensual interiors filled with the mystical spirit of the east.

Bali Spa ul. Nowy Świat 22

Step Out In Style

For the classic gentleman’s gift visit Van Thorn for a series of unique items such as pochettes, ties, shirts, etc. Our professional advice and highly personalized products ensure a present to remember. We also offer gift cards for made-to-measure shirts, jackets and suits enabling the recipient to make his own choice.

Van Thorn ul. Sienna 39

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Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2015

Mask Party!

See in the New Year in style at Klubo, where we’ll be holding a mask party that’s set to run till dawn. We’ll be opening two rooms with DJ Amaletto and Pit playing house and disco.

Tickets are available in the club (open Weds-Sat from 10 p.m.) or on the door on New Year’s Eve. For info, see: facebook. com/klubo Klubo ul. Czackiego 3/5

Talk of the Town

Varso Vie can reflect on a year to remember after being nominated for Gazeta Wyborcza’s prestigious Knajpa Roku awards. Opened in February, the restaurant has acquired a name for their modernized spin on traditional Warsaw cuisine.

The winner will be announced in December.

Varso Vie Pl. Konstytcuji 2

A Christmas Pudding

With the festive season already here, Cukiernia Stary Dom (ul. Puławska 104) invites you to enjoy their traditional Christmas treats…

KRAKÓW CHEESECAKE Stary Dom’s cheesecake is renowned for its fluffy delicacy, thanks to the use of triple-milled cheese and candied ingredients…

POPPY SEED CAKE Head pastry chef Mariusz Pałarczyk is known for his silky smooth poppy cake that’s embellished with hazelnut, honey, spices and orange peel.

BABA DROŻDŻOWA Crisp and fluffy, yet also moist with a long-lasting freshness. The addition of candied dried fruits, orange peel and raisins is essential!

GINGERBREAD Prepared over a four-week period, Stary Dom’s gingerbread is rich in peppery kick and made with special additions of honey, sugar, cloves and cocoa… www.warsawinsider.pl

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Pa N rtn ew er s

Gifts From The Heart

The opening of Minty dot breathes an air of freshness into the world of Warsaw jewelry…

S

ophisticated and subtle, Minty dot specialize in ‘jewelry with a message’. Suited for all occasions, Minty dot’s designers favor materials like gold, silver and natural stone in their quest for the perfect piece. The ideal gift for a confident woman with romantic leanings, Minty’s jewelry answers questions like ‘where, what and for whom’. Our large selection recognizes that small details make a difference, which is why our options are tailor-made for special occasions – these are treasures guaranteed to make those receiving them smile.

Our flagship store is located on Bracka 5 and captures the philosophy of our jewelry: minimalist

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Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2015

while at the same time sophisticated. It also echoes our philosophy, one that equates ‘good design with a good life’. While using the vintage style as its foundation, our brand takes its inspirations from daily life and surrounding trends. Adding an element of individuality, each item comes with space for its own dedication. Our jewelry is also available for purchase at Red Rubin stores in Arkadia, Galeria Mokotów and Złote Tarasy shopping centers.

Minty dot

ul. Bracka 5, tel. 22 629 2038, mintydot.pl

www.warsawinsider.pl

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restaurants KEY

NEW & NOTEWORTHY

$ zł. 30 (per main) $$ zł. 30-55 $$$ over zł. 55 New listings are in RED Best of Warsaw Award Winner

KALAYA (ul. Jasna 26, www.kalaya.pl) Poland has had Australian restaurants before, but they’ve pretty much all been immature efforts designed to mimic an Aboriginal cave. Kalaya, in contrast, is a smart urban spot whose understated interiors direct attention onto the food: that transpires to be a meat-heavy menu that features emu, kangaroo and NZ lamb cooked inside a Josper oven. The final outcome is high on fresh flavors, interesting talking points and creative presentation.

african american asian balkan & russian british burgers cheap eats cooking schools cuban french georgian german greek & turkish indian international italian japanese & sushi jewish latin & mexican middle eastern polish scandinavian specialty shops steak houses thai whole foods

44 45 45 48 48 48 49 50 50 50 52 52 52 52 53 60 61 63 63 64 65 72 72 72 73 74

Insider writers do not accept any form of payment in return for favorable reviews.

MANTY (ul. Elektoralna 24) Even with its colorful throws and woodsy knickknacks Manty’s high ceilings and wide open spaces mean intimacy is in short supply. Instead, people talk about the food, which in this case means ultra-cheap piles of Uzbek goodies: delicate manty dumplings with a cream dip and chili kick, or the more substantial lamb plov – a warming heap of rice, mutton, carrots and peppers.

Chances are you’re going to love it.

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Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2015

african Abyssinia (B1) Rynek Nowego Miasto 2, abyssinia.pl As it transpires, there’s one way of serving the mains, and it’s truly ingenious: on injera, a spongy flatbread that’s used to scoop up the food. Basically, you eat the plate.

Brilliant. And yes, the Ethiopian choices are marvelous: meat and fish dishes served in

listings / restaurants curry-like sauces with heaps of onions, garlic and ginger. The tastes are strange, alien and immediately addictive. $$ Café Baobab (H4) ul. Francuska 31, tel. 22 617 4057, cafebaobab.pl The work of former basketball player Aziz Seck, Baobab brings the tastes of Senegal to Saska Kępa. The mafe yap – beef stewed in peanut sauce – is as interesting as it sounds, and best enjoyed during their bi-monthly Saturday night concerts. $ La MaMa Africa (C1) ul. Andersa 23, tel. 22 226 3505, lamama.eu Things we like: African Star beer and the traditional stews. Things we don’t like: the goat meat. But that’s not a criticism of the cooking, rather an admission we don’t like goats in general – dead or alive. Those who don’t fancy experimenting with gizzards and heads make do with dishes like yam porridge or sweet and spicy coconut rice. It’s the very definition of casual, and something of a focal point for Warsaw’s African community. $$

american Brooklyn Restaurant & Bar (C4) Al. Jana Pawła II 18 (Rondo ONZ), tel. 22 114 3434 Gone are the fancy pants culinary creations once found in the basement, ousted in favor of a menu of pimped-up soul and street food, salads and steaks. This means fresh tacos not to mention Mito’s Beef Ribs and 100% beef dogs. The ground floor burger bar is more prosaic, offering a standard line-up of burgers and wings: they’re loved by many. $$ Champions Sports Bar (D5) Marriott Hotel, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 5119, champions.pl While the concept and style look dated, there’s no faulting the attention to detail – wherever you look (aside from under the table), there’s a TV. The heavy décor brings to mind the trans-Atlantic sports bars of the 90s, with glinting trophies, whirring machines, clacking pool tables and a cacophony of commentaries. Hell, there’s even a boxing ring. But you can’t fault their consistency: the food is always on-point, the staff are pro, while the generous floor plan makes it suitable for unwieldy groups of large and loud lads. $$ Hard Rock Café (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700,

hardrockcafe.pl Instantly recognizable by the giant neon guitar outside, Hard Rock has a pierced staff of skater boys and rock girls and a menu that is, if nothing else, completely reliable. Peruse rock’n’roll swag that includes Joplin’s blouse, Prince’s guitar and Shakira’s pants. $$ Hell’s Chickens ul. Puławska 246, hellschickens.pl It’s all chicken feed here, with a menu comprised of wings, strips and chicken wraps served on paper plates alongside thick-cut fries and homemade sauces. Chow down in a budget interior that doesn’t far extend beyond tables and chairs manufactured from crates – the young crowd doesn’t mind at all. A decent comfort food option on a rainy / hungover day, the only downer is a location way out of the center. $ Someplace Else (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6710, someplace-else.pl Favoring a stark concrete look, SPE were once a legend of 90s/00s Warsaw. Things have tamed down since that ex-pat heyday, but this remains a noteworthy choice for live MOR rock and zippy Tex Mex food. $$ Sticky Fingers (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 4, tel. 880 763 617, stickyfingersbbq.pl The menu, that’s printed on some crinkly brown paper, and starts with breakfast pancakes before taking you past a tidy series of burgers and wings – amongst

them an ‘Ultra Hot’ version smothered in Mad Dog sauce. We ordered the roast beef and found it fine if nothing special. While it might not be the BBQ restaurant that Warsaw’s waiting for, it’s a decent enough addition to the neighborhood. $ T.G.I. Friday’s (B3) al. Jana Pawła II 29, tel. 22 653 8360, tgifridays.pl/warszawa The steaks are a missand-miss affair, and even the burgers can’t compare to Warsaw’s armada of burgeries.

And the interiors are just as you’d remember: crass, vulgar and stuck in the 90s. Why do people bother? $$

asian Canton (B2) ul. Smocza 1, tel. 22 838 3823, canton. warszawa.pl Here’s what Chinese restaurants used to look like in the days of Bruce Lee: filled with dragons and lanterns, this place is an outright assault on your sensory system.

Wokking away for over a decade, it’s actually not a bad place if you want an MSG booster.

The Gong Bao chicken gets approval. $$ Cesarski Pałac (D2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 9707, cesarskipalac.com A rouge tinted Chinese restaurant whose design even incorporates a footbridge. Widely acclaimed, this 18-year-old restaurant combines Sichuan and Cantonese cuisine to serve a variety of dishes

ul. Nowy Świat 36 tel. 731 001 002 beefnroll.pl facebook.com/beefnroll.burgers

BEST BURGERS /WINGS /HOT-DOGS www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / restaurants in an elegant backdrop. The Dim Sum are something else. $$ China Garden ul. Kazachska 1, tel. 22 241 1010, chinagarden.pl Bull’s testicles boiled with soy sprouts. Goose jaws. Stewed bull’s penis with radish. Ah, these are meals for the brave. Allegedly the first Jiangsu restaurant in Warsaw, the tastes here are indeed unique.

The China Garden isn’t the Imperial Palace, but the décor of straight-backed chairs and densely constructed wood tables casts an aura of formality. No lounging about here;

serious eating is afoot! On the whole the dishes are delicate and delicious, and there are more cautious choices.

Choila ul. Zajączka 25, choila.pl Perhaps not the most convenient location, but that hasn’t stopped this Żoliborz eatery earning rave reviews from the off. Chef Samika Thapa presents the dishes of Nepal and the Himalayas, with her Mo Mo stuffed dumplings earning real recognition. Look out as well for the Choila – grilled pieces of pork with onion and coriander in a spicy sauce that’s heavy with pepper and garlic. $$ Du-Za Mi-Ha (D4) multiple locations, duzamiha.pl A compact Vietnamese joint noted for fresh, healthy nem filled with crunchy, perky fibers. The pho, on the other hand, is disappointing – according to one reader, “awful”. Prices begin at around zł. 10 and don’t go far north of zł. 20. You get what you pay for. $

Because Warsaw Just Got Hotter Classic Indian Cuisine With A Funky Twist ul. Zurawia 22, tel. 501 400 386, www.rain.pl

Onggi (D2) ul. Moliera 2 Onggi’s problem? That’s the food. Those expecting strong Korean flavors, big spices and plenty of bite and crunch come away disappointed by an offer that’s limited to bland and claggy dishes kept sweating in buffet containers: pay zł. 45 for all you can eat. In an area bristling with highly individual eateries, this feels little more than a merely adequate feeding trough, which is a great shame considering the considerable expense involved in the modern oriental design. $$ Pantai (G3) ul. Wybrzeże Szczecińskie 1 With its surprisingly classy tropical look, the primetime to visit the beachside Pantai is summer. Not much use knowing that now, of course. So the question is, does it work out of season?

That’s a resounding yes. Beautiful cocktails play their role, but so too does a succinct menu of Asian food that includes Malaysian laksa soups, some dim sum options, and tempura duck. $$ Papaya (E4) ul. Foksal 16, tel. 22 826 1199, papaya. waw.pl A place of precise lines and slick finishes, Papaya has a varied menu that uses influences from all over Asia, though particularly Thailand. But the star attraction is Preecha Wongsomboon, a Thai chef who fuses cookery with cabaret from behind a

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teppanyaki grill – his skills draw gasps. But between the honking horns and nifty knife work it becomes clear this is no novelty show: the food is top notch. $$ Patera (C4) ul. Świętokrzyska 36, tel. 535 333 123, patera.com.pl The center pin is a semi-circular bar, above which lamps hang from a ceiling made out of old Coca-Cola crates. There’s palm fronds, mismatching seats, cheerful colors, exposed pipes and industrial chains. Sacks of Haruka rice adorn one end, and on the other there’s floor-to-ceiling windows. It feels right, as does the food – a confident combination of sushi and Thai. We ordered fried beef, and were dealt a generous portion full of pleasing, punchy tastes, sticky rice and a deep, aromatic sauce. Just as good is the green tea ice cream, both cleansing and delicious. $$ Pekin Duck ul. Drawska 29A, tel. 22 412 8988, pekinduck.pl Looks like a typical Chinese – i.e., like a 1980s New Year’s Eve ball – and the service is carnage; expect lots of miscommunication and truculent attitude.

The food isn’t bad, though it’d be interesting to know how many pigs feet they actually ever sell. $$ Shabu Shabu Hot Pot (D6) ul. Mokotowska 27, tel. 535 685 750, shabu-shabu.pl Each table has its own set of hot pots installed and once you choose your broth and extras, you are the master of your own culinary destiny. We chose some seafood and some greens and were served a dish that was not quite a pad thai, but incredibly tasty all the same. A simple meal, but satisfying nonetheless. $$ Silk & Spicy (D5) ul. Żurawia 16/20, tel. 22 629 7012, silkandspicy.pl If you don’t benchmark Silk & Spicy against what you’d eat in Asia (and you really shouldn’t), then you might enjoy it. “The curry was on taste-wise,” said our disappointed graphic, “but the cream cheese didn’t work in the sushi and the kmichi-style salad served at the beginning was very pedestrian for such a place.” $ Toan Pho (D4) ul. Chmielna 5/7, tel. 888 147 307 Toan Pho’s bowls of soup with rice noodles come highly recommended; as does the

listings / restaurants chaos intrinsic to this type of casual Asian eatery. The short menu is in Vietnamese with Polish decoding – although you can ask for an English version. $

meats, wine from the Krauthaker vineyard and a particularly good choice of seafood.

This is Croatian food cooked exactly as you remember it from holiday. $$

balkan & russian

U Madziara (B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 620 1423, umadziara.pl U Madziara looks like it took two days to decorate. No-one goes here to marvel at the interiors though, they go in the knowledge that they’ll find great food at prices all bank cards can support. Chef Gabor’s signature goulash is one of life’s simple pleasures. $

Ba Adriatico (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 50/52, ba-adriatico.pl As a starter, then the grilled peppers stuffed with creamy, regional cheese are irresistible.

But then so too the octopus salad. Mains are a victory of simplicity, with dishes like skewered minced beef served with a bitey sauce and a soft, pillowy Lepinja bread. Yet ignore Thursday seafood night at your peril. Croatian-run, this neighborhood spot has an unassuming air that belies the general quality. $$ Banja Luka (E8) ul. Szkolna 2/4, tel. 22 828 1060, banjaluka.pl Lots of clunky timber and imported ceramics set the scene at this eatery, a Balkan stalwart that’s known for its economical pricing structure and bulky portions. Grilled meats are prominent and the food largely reliable. $$

Papalina Al. KEN 53, tel. 608 921 404, papalina.pl A warm, wood-heavy space with regional cheeses and sausages alongside grilled

Yugo (B4) ul. Sienna 83 (enter from Żelazna), tel. 694 109 379 You feel alive just being here: big on Colgate white colors, vintage tourist agency posters and bright stickers, Yugo is just about the cheeriest eatery you’ll come across on a dour Warsaw day. Presenting the food of the former Yugoslavia, this Balkan bolt hole specializes in meaty dishes served in traditional bread. $

british British Bulldog (D4) ul. Krucza 51, tel. 22 827 0020, bbpub.pl The pub design is wonderful, and straight out of Midsomer Murders with its Chesterfield sofas and Cutty Sark mirrors. But it’s been a downhill disaster since they lost the original management team. What could have become

Poland’s original gastro pub now serves greasy burgers and, judging by the stench at the bar, lots of food that’s way over-fried. $$ Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640, legendsbar.pl It’s a British pub first and foremost, but don’t forego the kitchen either.

The all-day breakfast is a great way to stoke up your drinking powers, while other dishes of note inc. pies, sausages and mash and, of course, fish and chips. $$

burgers Barn Burger (D4) ul. Złota 9. tel. 512 157 567, barnburger.pl Retaining a loyal crowd ever since their 2012 entry on the burger circuit, Barn Burger offer a loud and lively atmosphere and much celebrated burgers with goofy names like Heart Attack and Muppet. The list by the door notes the results of their American-style eating competitions / greed-fests. $ Barn Smoque (D4) ul. Zgoda 5, barnsmoque.pl Okay, so 2015 won’t be remembered as the year of the grill house, but Warsaw is getting there. From the owners of Barn Burger comes Barn Smoque, a casual eatery decorated with number plates and… portraits of pigs dressed for the office.

The menu is all about meat and fire, with dishes like wings, ribs, steaks and brisket.

Don’t leave without sampling the Fuck Crack

ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 97 07 www.cesarski-palac.com.pl At Cesarski Pałac our aim is to showcase authentic Chinese cuisine by using excellent and experienced chefs from China. Established in 1994, our 60-seater restaurant also has an additional 14-seater private room for meetings and functions.

The elegant interiors and excellent cuisine are considered hallmarks of our top class restaurant.

Especially recommended is our Sechuan goulash, beef served from the hot plate and Peking Duck.

Our waiters are happy to ensure that the wine you choose matches the dish.

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listings / restaurants Bacon: grilled bacon in beer batter with a side of jalapeno / BBQ salsa. $ Beef’N’Roll (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel. 531 707 070, beefnroll.pl If the wheels have fallen off the burger craze then no-one told Beef’N’Roll.

Originating as a food truck, their success has been such that a fixed venue was required.

Everything about the food and drink suggests quality is the main consideration. $ Burger Bar (E10) ul. Puławska 974/80 (enter from Olkuska), tel. 780 094 076, burgerbar.waw.pl Warsaw’s first legitimate burger spot was the talk of the town when it first opened up in 2012, only to have its thunder stolen when 100 copycats opened in their trail. But this lot have kept plugging away, sticking to their guns with little song and dance. Intimate and unassuming, it’s for good reason they’ve retained a loyal core of fans – if the words masterpiece can be applied to a burger, then their green chili burger is just that. $ Bydło i Powidło (A5) ul. Kolejowa 47, tel. 22 400 48 44 Set in a modern glass prism, here’s a place that’s realized you can’t get away with just serving burgers anymore (though here, they’re very good indeed). Unfortunately, the steak part of the menu just isn’t there yet. $ Fuddruckers ul. Górczewska 124 (Wola Park), tel. 22 533

4000, fuddruckers.com Not ones to keep quiet, the American Fuddruckers chain claim to build ‘the world’s best burger!’ A big claim, but on early evidence they can certainly claim the Warsaw leg of this title. In an added plus, a buffet stand lets you throw as many add-ons (jalapenos, salsa, etc.) onto your food as possible. $ Między Bułkami (D4) Al. Jerozolimskie 23, tel. 22 126 0159 You want to yell, “stop opening burger joints!” But ‘Between the Buns’ is one of those additions we really don’t mind: there’s nothing original about the menu, nor the presentation, but the quality is a solid 8/10. $ Warburger (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1, warburger.pl While Warsaw has lost its appetite for burgers, you wouldn’t necessarily tell by popping in WarBurger. Set inside a diminutive cabin, join the scrum for jazzed-up burgers that use slow-food ingredients. If not the best, they’re most certainly up there. $ Ziggi Point (B4) ul. Pańska 59, tel. 696 145 735 Diners are summoned to the counter to collect their order via a buzzer, before settling down to enjoy what has emerged as a real candidate for Warsaw’s best burger. The fiery Desperados is as perfect as a burger gets, and best twinned with a Curiosity Cola from the Fentimans brand. Steaks and wings also available inside a cool diner setup. $

cheap eats Bar Turecki “Efes” (H4) ul. Francuska 1, ul. Aleje Niepodleglości 80, tel. 22 898 3001 So it’s a kebab shop, but when the kebabs are this good they’re well worth the listing. Either join the queue outside, or head indoors to sample the smattering of grill food and salads. $ Diner 55 (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34 Young? Broke? Try Diner 55. Set in a dark, industrial basement, this spot fills with skater types showing off their first tattoo. The menu is born of an alliance between Pan Burger, Rico’s Tacos and Mr. Pancake, and is good enough for a quick fix solution. $ Fabryka Frytek (D4) ul. Złota 3, tel. 505 671 334, ul. Waryńskiego 9, tel. 505 671 334, fabrykafrytek.pl Giant portions of Belgian fries (up to 600g!), waffles, wedges and whatever else you can make out of a potato come served with an equally comprehensive range of dips and sauces. $ Falafel Bejrut (C2) ul. Senatorska 40 Originally born as a food cart outside Hala Mirowska, this venture steams with the heat of the deep fryer, not to mention all those people squashed-up trying to decipher the menu. We’re converted to their hummus falafel which comes with jalapenos and a little kick of hot sauce.

• The best quality USDA Black Angus prime beef, Wagyu 9+ Kobe steaks and Scottish prime beef.

• Outstanding seafood menu with oysters, mussels, octopus and calamari and seasonal, traditional Polish dishes.

• The largest selections of global wine in Poland. ul. Merliniego 5 (across from the Warszawianka water park) tel. 22 646 0810/22 646 0849

www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / restaurants The secret ingredient here is an extra pinch of cilantro and parsley, which helps this pocket of pleasure come together in a whirr of freshness. $ Friterie (D5) ul. Hoża 42, tel. 794 158 813 Served in paper cones, the Belgian-style chips come with that inimitable double-fried crunch and a range of sauces that merit experimentation: try the ‘Andaluse’. $ Manekin (C3) ul. Marszalkowska 140, tel. 22 826 0753, manekin.pl Originally founded in Toruń, this pancake house chain is a national phenomenon – there are times when queues for a table snake outside. The menu touts dozens of pancake options served in sweet and savory form (there’s even a spaghetti version…), though not everyone agrees they’re worth the often silly waiting times. $ Meat Love (D5) ul. Hoża 62, tel. 500 149 210, meatlove.pl Not ones to stagnate, Meat Love have expanded in size, meaning there’s now plenty of room to sample their artisan sandwiches – the roast beef is a best seller. While some claim it’s no longer the benchmark venue of old, it’s still a consistent performer. $ Mr. Pancake (E3) ul. Solec 50, tel. 501 237 461, mrpancake.pl You’re just going to love their pancakes, with their fun, wacky look and creative toppings (M&Ms, funny faces traced with icing sugar, and lots of chocolatey stuff). They’re the sort of pancakes you’d get if Bart Simpson got stoned and decided to make some food – brilliant. $ Okienko (D7) ul. Polna 22 Belgian-style frites served in paper cones right from out of a street-side hatch. Yes they’re good, but they’re bettered by the sauces that are written up in marker pen on the wall tiles. With money exchanged, do your eating on the upturned crates left on the side of the curb. $ Pogromcy Meatów (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, tel. 505 703 508 Remember when Meat Love opened? Remember how the city went crazy for it? Expect those scenes to be repeated with Pogromcy Meatów, a dashing, glass-fronted spot with chessboard colors and gleaming surfaces. But no one is

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here to admire the interiors, they’re here for a selection of to-die-for, meaty sandwiches: find piles of beef cheek and veal tongue leaking out of artisan buns slathered in homemade, top secret sauces. Think of it as the best thing to ever happen to Koszykowa! $ To Tu Dumpling Bar ul. Niekłańska 33, chinskapierogarnia.pl A shabby looking shack cabin, To Tu offer what are seriously considered some of the best – if not the best – dim sum in town.

Magic-ked up by a Manchurian exile, the experience isn’t unlike being in a sweaty back street haunt in Asia. And that’s a good thing! $ Wurst Kiosk (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 17, tel. 606 133 134 Imported German sausages served through a hole-in-a-wall with big dabs of mustard and fresh buns to go with them. The currywurst is just like the one you had at Berlin Hauptbahnhof. $

cooking schools

the trip north to Żoliborz. And there’s never a thing as too many Cuba Libres... $$

french ArtBistro Stalowa ul. Stalowa 52, tel. 22 618 2732 Part of an ‘art hotel’, the distant Stalowa features a narrow dining chamber with vaulted walls, fresh flowers and white formica fittings.

It looks good, but on a brighter day the courtyard, strewn with deckchairs and crates, is the place to be. The food is erratic – our vol au vent starter was dry and devoid of taste, while the chocolate ‘cream’ dessert was a runny, ugly looking disappointment.

But there is potential: the main was a thing of excellence – duck with a carefully crisped skin, a perfect hint of fat, expertly browned potatoes and a well-executed orange and caramel sauce. $$

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Cook Up Studio ul. Racławicka 99 (Fort Mokotów), tel. 22 212 89 76, cookup.pl Workshops in a gorgeous cooking studio located in a redbrick fortress.

Past themes have included Swedish cooking (led by the Swedish Embassy chef), knife skills and soup, with lessons culminating in eating all that hard work.

L’Arc (E8) ul. Puławska 16, tel. 519 000 050, larc.pl A place of considered elegance, subtle decorations and monochrome colors. They’re especially noted for their obsessive attitude towards seafood (pick from five types of oysters, or delve into the fish tank for the lobster of your choosing), inventive mains and desserts that are heaven. $$

Joseph’s Culinary Studio ul. Duchnicka 3, tel. 663 040 800, jospehseeletso.pl A familiar face from the TV, Botswanan born chef Joseph Seeletso marks a new chapter of his career with the launch of his own culinary academy. Tailor-made courses for individuals and groups are held in a custom-designed kitchen, and include cookery classes, wine tasting, dinner and the chance to learn a stack of secrets from the man himself.

Le Bistro Rozbrat (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44, tel. 22 881 7808 The signs suggest that Powiśle is set to mature even further this year, making the transition from hipster haunt to restaurant breeding ground – and here is Exhibit A. Owned by Frenchman Alain Budzyk, the interiors are contemporary casual, with talking points saved for the food.

The concise menu has token nods to Spanish cuisine, as well as a steak bavette that’s being raved about on the blogs. $$

cuban

Le Victoria Brasserie Moderne (D3) ul. Królewska 11 (Sofitel Warsaw Victoria), tel. 22 657 8332, sofitel-victoria-warsaw. com The interior of Didier Gomez whispers intimacy, yet it also embraces notions of space and light. The casual elegance that emanates from the design is accented by warm colors, low banquettes and glinting mirrors. Acting as a ballast to it all is an open kitchen, in which you’ll find Executive Chef

El Caribe ul. Mickiewicza 9, tel. 22 400 0994, el-caribe.pl Start with a round of daiquiris before ordering frijoles negroes (black beans). But everyone agrees, it’s the flan that gets you doing the cha cha. With the cooking left to a Cuban exile, this perky spot is worth

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listings / restaurants Maciej Majewski honing his art. His is a menu that fits seamlessly with the surrounds: a fresh, modern look at French cuisine, but one that values clarity and simplicity. Always leave room for dessert, especially the ‘pear trio’ – delicate and refreshing and with the right hint of sweet.

Petit Appetit (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 27, tel. 22 826 44 61, petitappetit.com.pl A bit of French you say? Step in. There’s an atmosphere here that melts regulars and tourists into one. An easy coexistence that reveals a lot about the very soul of the place: café, hangout, bistro. Small choice but good results. $$

georgian Klukovka (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 45A, www.klukovka.pl Jana Pawła’s pavilions are the unlikely location of this culinary beacon: amid the aggressive waft of its kebab shop neighbors, Klukova presents itself as a warming winter mouse hole filled with banter, babble and rich aromas. Specializing in the foods of ‘the east’, this means a menu inspired by the tastes of Georgia, Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan, and more. The mutton manty dumplings are great, and best appreciated with a bottle of unfiltered Lithuanian beer. That said, it’s never a surprise to find diners ordering up bottles of Georgian vodka before proceeding to share their way through the menu. $ Restauracja Gruzja (D4) ul. Chmielna 5, tel. 729 460 761, smakigruzji.pl After a red hot debut there’s been murmurs that Gruzja’s kitchen has suffered a few hiccups. Nonetheless, the chinkali – every Georgian’s favorite doughy purse of broth and meaty goodness – remains worth the visit. $

Rusiko (E5) Al. Ujazdowskie 22, tel. 22 629 0628 The great location helps, with its nice evening light and people watching opportunities, but it’s the interiors that make it: rugs hanging on the wall, classic tables and contemporary lights. You feel right at home, which we guess is what the owners had in mind from the start. Find them hopping between tables,

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eating, chatting and going the extra yard. Full of warmth, love for food and live music at the weekend, this is the raucous, good-humored Georgia you want to know. Note: closed Monday. $$

german Adler (E5) ul. Mokotowska 69, tel. 22 628 73 84, adlerrestauracja.pl Set in a rustic rotunda, this veteran favorite packs in reassuringly caloric portions of pork knuckles, schnitzel and dumplings – all of a sudden, you understand why Helmut Kohl looks so large.

Foaming beers served by Bavarian country maids complete the authenticity. $

greek & turkish Paros (D4) ul. Jasna 14/16, tel. 22 828 1067, parosrestauracja.pl Out of all of Warsaw’s Greek contributions Paros dazzles most with a glitzy look that’s a complete U-turn from the typical taverna look. Owned by the same team behind El Greco, the menu is identical, though a recent visit revealed a kitchen resting on its laurels – not one plate on our table was finished. $$ Santorini ul. Egipska 7, tel. 22 672 0525, kregliccy.pl/ santorini/ Santorini looks scuffed and tired but there’s a bonhomie present that instantly engages. The kitchen attaches no value to things like presentation, preferring instead to simply treat diners to piles of grilled and skewered food that consistently tastes right – and the milfei dessert is magic. $$ Sofra (C6) ul. Wilcza 71, tel. 731 847 731 Slowly but surely it seems the Turkish influence has been eroded in favor of a pedestrian menu of burgers, pasta and other things available on every corner. But this neighborhood redoubt feels cheerfully unforced, and it becomes an easy place to hang around in. $

indian Bollywood Lounge (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, tel. 22 827 0283, bollywoodlounge.pl Known for their raucous dusk-till-dawn parties, there is another less

hedonistic roll filled by Bollywood: that of a restaurant. The menu is an uncomplicated, classic affair that’s an ideal primer for the party ahead. $$ Bombaj Masala (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 606 688 777, bombajmasala.pl One of the best looking Indian restaurants in Warsaw, but the food rarely pokes above average. For a cuisine that prides itself on rich, intense tastes, Bombaj gets remembered for bland, oily dishes that only sometimes get finished. Yet business remains brisk, thanks in part to a combination of location and general culinary ignorance. $$

Buddha (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 23, tel. 22 826 3501, buddha.info.pl The days of the Raj are recreated in Buddha, a fine-looking curry house with intricate interiors and topdrawer curries. The murgh masala jhodphur is a favorite of ours though the real plus here is the consistency: it’s always a solid bet. $ Chmielarnia (B4) ul. Twarda 42 (basement level), tel. 725 010 271, chmielarnia.waw.pl Find some of the world’s greatest beers (see Nightlife) served in a murky, muggy basement. The Indian food that accompanies it is generally successful without being memorable – the beer snack menu though is great, with big points going to the spicy, chili ribs. $ Curry House ul. Żeromskiego 81, tel. 508 870 774 & al.

Ken 47, tel. 22 213 0689, curryhouse.com.pl A primitive design (port-a-loo toilet, barred windows) and far-flung location have not hindered Curry House one bit. It’s a legend, not least for their vindaloo – a macho dish that provokes spontaneous combustion. Be warned: no beer. $ Madras (B3) Al. Solidarnosci 129/131, tel. 536 335 333, Even before you enter, you smell Madras: a pungent aroma that wafts gloriously over gloomy Solidarnośći. Looking humble, unassuming, and even a little seedy, this microscopic venue is as far removed from refined as it gets. For all that, those who love Indian food refuse to go anywhere else for their curry – full of intense flavors and bold spicing, the vindaloo is a near death experi-

listings / restaurants ence: even your hair feels like it’s on fire. As the burning euphoria subsides, you’re left basking in that blissful glow all hotheads will know. Newsflash: now serving Grimbergen on tap! $ Mandala (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 9/11, tel. 22 428 44 54, mandalaklub.com or indiaexpress.pl Remember the cheap curries you once scoffed as a student? Well Mandala offers something similar. Immense portions, low prices and an efficient delivery service ensure plenty of custom, but the food is, at best, nothing more than ordinary. On a bad day, you might feel a little queasy. $ Mr India Al. KEN 47, tel. 22 213 0689, mrindia.pl Split on two levels the design is contemporary if a little characterless: leather banquettes that leave a sweaty bum print and wood paneling.

No problem though, if it looks bland then the food isn’t. That means an incredible butter chicken that’s deep and immensely satisfying. Then there’s the vindaloo – could be hotter for some, but good enough for most. $$ Namaste India (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 15, tel. 22 357 0939, namasteindia.pl Responsible for first bringing quality, budget Indian food to Warsaw, Namaste found themselves losing their way somewhat. Now back on track – and with a newly expanded upstairs section – one

Insider correspondent goes so far as to claim a recent trip as his ‘favorite Indian for years!’ $$ Parivar al. Waszyngtona 75, tel. 22 393 4104, parivar.pl The squid sizzler has the taste and texture of that chewing gum you found stuck under the bus seat, whil e the vindaloo is cunningly disguised as a bowl of red water with some chicken floating about. “I get better curry on the oil rigs,” opined the Insider’s official balti boy. For all of that, the biggest disappointment is Parivar’s apparent success. $ Rain by India Curry (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 438 9350, rain.pl Fresh, contemporary interiors impart a chic, classy look, while the shaded courtyard garden is one of the best about town. The real credit for Rain’s resuscitation though belongs to the kitchen: our curry expert rates the starters as the best he’s had in any Indian restaurant. And the mains continue the form with a magnificent lamb tikka masala. The tiffin lunch deals are outstanding as well. $$ Rani Al. KEN 48/10, tel. 729 247 400, rani.com.pl Mere steps from Metro Natolin, this restaurant’s catchment area goes beyond just Ursynów. Owner Samir is a self-confessed foodie, and his vision includes a contemporary Indian menu that features pan-seared cod with turmeric, tomato salsa and mint

chutney – wonderful. Rani will also please the traditionalists, with everything from creamy kormas to vindaloo’s that leave your ears blowing smoke rings. $$ Tandoor (D7) ul. Marszałkowska 21/25, tel. 22825 2375, tandoor.com.pl After nearly 20 years at the helm, owner Charanjit Walia has sold up and moved on, leaving a spiritual hole in his life-defining work. His parting shot has been a re-haul which has seen not just the interior modernized, but the menu – start with the pea and basil soup before moving onto the chicken tamarind or the chicken sholay kebab. Coated in absinth, it’s set aflame at the table. Traditionalists will also approve: the ‘classic’ menu features a formidable butter chicken tikka masala. After a couple of years in the doldrums, Tandoor is back with a bang. $$

international Aioli Inspired by Mini (D6) pl. Konstytucji 5, aioliinspiredbymini.pl Fans of the original we might be, but this latest venture brings to mind one of those anonymously formulaic Times Square eateries where tourists convene for the ‘fake’ New York experience. There are moments when the scrum at the bar threatens to spill into blood sport, while the despondent staff only make matters worse. You’d think the Pilsner beer tanks would serve as a point of

Dear Guests!

We invite you to experience an exotic and mysterious adventure full of seasonal aromas and the unforgettable flavours of traditional Indian cuisine.

Curry, coriander, turmeric, cinnamon, ginger, cumin: these aromas mean it’s impossible to pass Buddha without stepping in.

Enjoy the atmosphere of Indian life, food, music and happiness.

Buddha Indian Restaurant ul. Nowy Swiat 23 +48 22 826 35 01 / 725 111 222

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listings / restaurants redemption, but here foul glasses make what should be Warsaw’s freshest beer into the capital’s worst. $$ Ale Wino (F5) ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 628 3830, alewino.pl Dip through an archway to discover Ale Wino, a beautiful wine bar whose menu has been well tailored to the season.

Tweaked for the season is the pork belly, a Złotnicka pig adorned with apple sugar snap peas and celery mousse – gorgeous. As for the wine, put your faith in the sommelier, Oliver.

A nuż widelec (E3) ul. Dobra 14/16, tel. 507 367 520 So snug is A nuż widelec, the feeling is of being round at a friend’s house. The food is nothing fancy, but fresh and made with love – and it feels even better while the owner potters about, chatting with his guests and watering the flowers in the knockout garden.

Such is the atmosphere, you want to call it home. $$ Artkitchen ul. Domaniewska 34A, artkitchen.pl Buried deep in the office blocks of white collar Mokotów Artkitchen hope to attract more than just the lunch break crowd with a busy jazz program overseen by musician Grzegorz Piotrowski. The modern international menu is composed by Michał Bassa, a man who appears to like foie gras: find it in burgers, ice cream and other combinations. $$

Bibenda (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 10, tel. 502 770 303, bibenda.pl If it’s informal dining you want, then Bibenda nails it: here the warm design incorporates a popular bar area filled with a young, chattery crowd. The seasonal menu makes use of market vegetables and farmyard produce, and is built on pillars of quality and simplicity. $$

Boathouse ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 389a, tel. 22 616 3223, boathouse.pl The name gives it away, doesn’t it? Situated in what is indeed a former boathouse, this venerable institution comes into its element in warmer weather when Warsaw goes riverside to dine at this restaurant. Even out of season, the Mediterranean standards have stood the test of time and keep this venue busy. $$ Brasserie Warszawska (E5) ul. Górnośląska 24, tel. 22 628 9423, brasseriewarszawska.pl Looking for classic cuisine with no daft flights of fancy? Here you have it. At a time when everyone wants to be Ferran Adrià, Brasserie has both a menu and interior that you can understand: pan-fried foie gras; elegant beef Rossini; and sinful apple tarte tatin, all served inside posh interiors of zinc-plated mirrors and chessboard floors. Their Michelin Bib Gourmand is a source of pride, but it’s the number of repeat

clients that are the ultimate paean to the skills of chef Mateusz Wichrowski. $$$ Bubbles (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 512 540 913, bubbles.com.pl Occupying a small, square room, it’s intimate and relaxed: a place busy with blackboards and bottles, crates and clutter. It radiates warmth and honesty. The food is exquisite, and includes big, meaty snails farmed in Mazury, and their signature dish: Swiss-style raclette. Presented on a wooden chopping board, this cheese dish is classic melty goodness, and served alongside a pile of potatoes, onions marinated with caramel and candied pumpkin. Considering the place doubles as a champagne bar the prices are remarkably moderate. $$ Concept 13 (D4) ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7373 You’d expect a rooftop meal at Poland’s ultimate luxury department store to cost the earth, but that’s not the case. The zł. 50 lunch deal allows Joe Public to enjoy the considerable skills of Dariusz Barański. That he manages to create different pieces of art each and every afternoon is a testament to his talent – fellow chefs and foodies privately talk of him as a Michelin star in the making. $$$ Der Elefant (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, tel. 22 890 0010, derelefant. com This leviathan restaurant unravels in a maze of wrought iron and monochrome tiles. The menu looks like it was devised by

Slow food and a slow life philosophy inside an urban interior and a luxury wine and spirits list. Our kitchen uses only high quality regional and ecological produce. tel. 22 623 02 90, www.dwietrzecie.waw.pl

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listings / restaurants throwing darts at a cookbook (Mediterranean mezze, Tom Yum soup, burgers, pierogi, etc.), but if the focus is blurry then the quality isn’t. While some of the dishes are strictly middling, the Alaskan crab claws are excellent while the filet mignon (zł. 59) one of the best meat deals in town – and it’s even better when ordered with their own-made BBQ sauce. $$ Dom ul. Mierosławskiego 12, tel. 509 165 712 The simple name implies exactly what it is: a restaurant in a house. Set in a pre-war home complete with a lawn and garden, this little secret isn’t all that secret. When the Insider visited it was packed, prompting staff to make some adjustments and put together a table. We’re glad they did. Their menu changes frequently, and on our visit included homemade focaccia, beef risotto and gravlax with lime foam on top of a mini-pancake. You won’t want to leave. $$

Dwie Trzecie (D5) ul. Wilcza 50/52, tel. 605 589 588 Undeterred by the departure of chef Marcin Jabłonkski, the new guy in the kitchen, Grzegorz Nowakowski, has stamped his own mark with a seasonal menu that’s high on creativity: on our visit that meant guinea fowl accompanied with splotches of emulsion and smears of coffee puree. Pleasingly, you get the idea that it’ll work in all seasons: raw enough for summer, yet intimate for winter. $$ Grand Kredens (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 111, tel. 22 629 8008, kredens.com.pl This mighty veteran continues to draw a steady custom on account of a wide-reaching menu that aims to keep everyone happy – and it usually does. The design is surreal to say the least, and is laid out in such a way as to always guarantee a lively atmosphere. $$ InFormal Kitchen (D3) Pl. Małachowskiego 2 (enter from Traugutta), tel. 531 918 534, informalkitchen.pl There’s plenty of fireworks over the course of a vibrant menu that sources its produce from regional eco farms: meat from within a 26 kilometer radius of Warsaw, dairy produce from Mazury and fish from Pomerania. The rump of lamb is a class act, and bettered only by the pear and thyme tart for dessert. $$

Kaskrut (D6) ul. Poznańska 5, tel. 22 622 5438, facebook. com/dwichlab This haunt has a high communal seating plan and hip, buzzy foodie crowd: fit in by taking pics of the food.

The exciting menu is a temporary work that changes every two weeks. The place is known for its trial-and-error attitude: combinations that don’t work get binned before making a public debut. Those that make it through the qualifiers end up on the board. Servings are artistic, excellent and heavily influenced by French and North African cuisine, and new chef Piotr Ceranowicz already looks like he’s adapted well to Kaskrut’s high standards. $$

Original Indian Cuisine

Kotakota (E3) ul. Bartoszewicza 3 Short of eating in a tunnel, Kotakota is pretty much the darkest place you’ll ever eat in. Filled with donated furniture and peeling plaster walls, this unique restaurant has got people talking thanks to a regularly changing menu that mixes up local ingredients with old recipes and modern techniques. People leave in a state of dumbstruck excitement – full review next issue… $$ Krucza 8 i Pól (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 10 (enter from Krucza), tel.

784 461 397 Looking sparse and fashionable one expects Eight and a Half to be on-trend food-wise. No such luck. Fundamentally the food is fine, with quality ingredients cooked with technical competence. Yet while there are hints of skill in the kitchen, there’s little evidence of creativity, passion or invention: imagine the sort of modern European food you’d find in a generic five star hotel. $$ La Maison (B3) ul. Chłodna 15, tel. 22 652 3660, lamaison.pl Everything here feels considered, from a wine list handpicked by importer Frank Telling, right down to the desserts, prepared by award-winning French pastry chef Michel Willaume – and my, what desserts. Backing the little details up is a menu of note: fish are a particular forte. All this in a casual background that features some whimsical Alice in Wonderland touches: patchwork armchairs, pinkish booths and hanging teapot-shaped lights. $$

club

La Rotisserie (C1) ul. Kościelna 12 (Le Régina Hotel), tel. 22 531 6070, leregina.com A gloriously seductive dining room, Poland’s champion sommelier, and a chef that many recognize www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / restaurants as being Michelin potential: put those three together and you have one of the finest experiences to be enjoyed in a Warsaw dining room. The cooking is ‘classic with a twist’, and in October that meant – for this diner at least - tuna with beetroot and yuzu, and a main of beef fillet: electrifyingly good. $$$ L’enfant Terrible (D8) ul. Sandomierska 13 (enter from Rejtana), tel. 22 119 5705, eterrible.pl Pitting local produce against modern techniques the tasting menu (five courses: zł. 170) is sensational: the duck hearts will live long in this Insider’s memory. With all the hype you expect it to be a little up its arse, but it’s anything but: the design is smart but non-threatening, and the front of house staff are due plenty of credit. $$$ BEST WAWA 2014 “Newcomer”

Loft (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 668 016 964, cafeloft.pl Entering Loft isn’t far removed from stepping inside a pop art painting: lots of vibrant colors and weird lights inside strings of bubbles. A bi-level venture, the best spot to enjoy the menu is on the upstairs terrace, a sunny place befitting of options with names like Ding Dong Soup and Embarrassed Chicken. $$

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Między Ustami (E5) ul. Mokotowska 33/35, tel. 530 323 325, The design joins elements of classic Prague bordello against a London Soho bar, while the international menu features a decent steak nicely enhanced by a silky drizzle of demi-glace. You get the idea both the cooking and artisan cocktails need a little fine-tuning, but fundamentally this newbie is looking in the right direction – certainly one to keep a watch for. $$ MOD (D6) ul. Oleandrów 8 Hugely famous in Kraków, chef Tristan has set about conquering Warsaw with an intriguing menu that mixes French and Asian influences into something unforgettable: don’t miss out on the ramen.

Although only open a couple of months, people are already openly calling it one of the best casual eateries of 2015. $$ Momu.Gastrobar (D2) ul. Wierzbowa 11, tel. 506 100 001, momu. pl Tapas-style portions of experimentallooking food arrives in little glass jars (meat and fish skewers, Eton mess), or else on paper plates a la the jalapeno hot dog. Pay zł. 40 for a choice of six itsy pots served in a wire-framed basket. While the concept has taken right off, the food isn’t exactly an earthquake experience. $ N31 (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 31, n31restaurant.pl One of the original pioneers of modern Polish

cooking returns anew. Forced to close his previous venture after a government scandal, Robert Sowa hopes to rebound with this latest effort: opened at press time, we’ll be back next issue to see if he’s succeeded. $$$ Naturel ul. Klimczaka 1, naturel7.pl Down in the Royal Wilanów development, early signs suggest that Naturel could well become the restaurant the upscale Miasteczko housing compound has needed from Day 1. Overseen

by Marcin Jabłoński, one of the rising stars of the Polish food scene, the menu is a celebratory observance of natural local produce: items like watercress cream soup for starters and rabbit with carrot puree for mains. The end product has left critics raving. $$

Nolita (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 292 0424, nolita.pl The deluxe dining scene is filling out in Warsaw, and there’s now a few restaurants that can present an equitable claim for the No. 1 spot. However, it’s Nolita that perch at the top, with a menu that sees largely classical recipes through a sharp, modern prism – chef Jacek Grochowina has created a place that’s coherent and understandable without sacrificing values of innovation. Looking chic and high end, the tastes and sensations in this restaurant are thrilling: diners are left speechless by the tuna tartar, while the aged beef fillet is an

listings / restaurants Insider mainstay. $$$ BEST WAWA 2014 BEST WAWA 2014 “Fine Dining” “Chef” Nowa Próżna (C3) ul. Próżna 10, nowaprozna.pl Amazing to think that a few years ago this street looked like it was about to fall down. With Próżna’s restoration nearly complete, along comes the task of filling its ground floor units – consider this venture a successful pacesetter. Founded by the owners of the recently closed R20, the European menu here is a work of flair and modernity. Like the food, the slick white interiors feel just right. $$

Oliva (D4) ul. Ordynacka 10/12, tel. 501 497 410, restauracjaoliva.pl The spirit of the Mediterranean hangs over Oliva, a place where a milk color palette is matched against potted herbs and soft wooden touches. The menu has riffs of Italy, Spain and Greece, with particular pride attached to their gourmet olive oils. At times the cooking of Łukasz Żuchowski has been described as ‘inspirational’ and his talents come paired with a wine list selected

by Marek Kondrat – an actor / wine merchant with an immense reputation. $$ Platter by Karol Okrasa (C4) InterContinental Hotel, ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8734, platter.pl The hotel has roped in celebrity chef Karol Okrasa to head

their revamped dining room. As a temple of nouveau Polish, the new layout isn’t a dramatic change from the previous occupant, but the food is faultless. In particular, the herb garden salad with prawns comes immaculately groomed. An already excellent experience has been raised to talking point level. $$$ Północ Poludnie (E7) ul. Bagatela 10 Besides the food being colorful and inventive there is a restaurant concept that works here. It has a visible kitchen, which at times is a little noisy, a beautifully designed interior, not to mention an attentive wait staff that are familiar with what they serve. The sliders are worth exploration: they don’t just consist of beef, but also salmon, egg and chicken. $$ Porkownia (D6) ul. Piękna 20, tel. 22 627 4151, porkownia. pl Here’s a Warsaw first: a restaurant focused on celebrating the humble pig. Suspicions that Porkownia may lack something in the sophistication department don’t bear fruit – sprouting from the ashes of Jazz Bistro Piękna, the surrounds are chic and modern, not the blood-spattered butcher’s backroom you might otherwise expect. The food is similarly well-presented and scores highly for such dishes as apple/bacon and boar/artichoke/marmite. Showing plenty of creativity, here’s a kitchen that reinvents the pig!

Qchnia Artystyczna (E6) Zamek Ujazdowski, Al. Jazdów 2, tel. 22 625 7627, qchnia.pl Even on a cold, ashen day, can you question a view that spills down onto a canal and park way down below? And how about when that view comes from a candle-lit reconstructed castle… Endlessly romantic, this artistic eatery comes with a light look and a creative menu honed by Marta Gessler. $$ Renoma (E3) ul. Lipowa 7A, tel. 22 692 7239, bistrorenoma.pl Here’s a venue that suits all purposes at all times of day. Most of all, it’s a place that feels positive, a place where heart and mind work seamlessly together: that means breakfast to evening options – many of them gluten-free – including fab lunch deals and 60-day aged steaks. Great for afternoon ‘me time’ or a dinner date with a beautiful stranger, Renoma’s intimate style and soothingly stark interiors work with the personalized approach. $$

Salto (D5) ul. Wilcza 73 (enter from Emilii Plater), tel. 22 584 8771, saltorestauracja.pl For those who think Argentine chef Martin Gimenez-Castro is just about steak, then they haven’t been to Salto. The tasting menu is the best way to view his full oeuvre, and on our visit included ceviche with Portuguese corvina; a dainty tranche of cavala mackerel; and Porcini ice

Our atmospheric restaurant specializes in seafood, presented and prepared using our unique methods. The tastes ensure that it’s regulars and returnees that make up the core of our custom: join them!

15% discount with this issue, and a free glass wine with your main course!

Papalina Al. KEN 53, tel. 608 921 404, www.papalina.pl

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listings / restaurants cream served in the shape of a mushroom.

It’s a brilliant demonstration of the chef’s passion and personality, but most of all, it’s just bloody brilliant. $$$ Secado (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 66, tel. 608 707 799 Casual, intimate interiors complement a menu that’s expanded from its original Latin leanings. Everything we’ve tried here has been culinary gold, and that includes the surf & turf, tortillas and roast beef. $$ Senses (C2) ul. Bielańska 12, tel. 22 331 9697, sensesrestaurant.pl The entrance alone is a thing of fancy and accessed through a long open-air corridor, one side flanked by the office block, the other by bullet grazed brickwork. Flickering flames dance on either side, the tall walls disappearing into the night sky above. Recommended is the six course tasting menu (zł. 230), which on our visit included eel, smoked at the table, duck with onion chutney and pepper mousse

ul. Złota 11 tel. 668 016 964 cafeloft.pl

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and swordfish served amid billowing ‘sea essence’. Comparisons to Atelier Amaro are inevitable, and speak volumes for the innovation and talents of chef Andrea Camastra. $$$ BEST WAWA 2014 “Foreign Chef” Signature (D5) ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 55 38755, signaturerestaurant.pl You feel a millionaire just being here: we’ve heard the interiors described as a ‘Monegasque state of mind’, and that’s not a bad way to surmise a décor that’s all about friezes and reliefs dated from the time this was the Soviet Embassy, lavish 1950s Oswald chairs, lighting by Serge Mouille and original Marilyn photos shot by the acclaimed Milton Greene. Food-wise the restaurant makes a massive splash with a menu that’s clever, creative and pretty. Count on Signature’s seasonally changing desserts providing a happy ending. $$ Solec 44 (F4) ul. Solec 44, tel. 798 363 996, solec.waw.pl Chef Aleksander Baron is one of the big

characters on Warsaw’s foodie circuit, and his love of nose-to-tail food always ensures surprises on the monthly changing menu: October, for instance, saw a tasting menu based around beaver. Using fresh, seasonally appropriate ingredients, this is one of the best alternate dining experiences around.

Diners order at the counter before sitting down in a spontaneous looking, cut-price interior that clacks and clatters to the sound of grown-ups playing board games. We’re huge fans. $$

Soul Kitchen Bistro (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 18A, soulkitchen.pl If the previous venue was all slanted towards low-pitched business conversation then the new one is positively festive in comparison: scuffed brickwork, tall bar stools, a long

Loft’s unique atmosphere is helped by its position on ul. Złota, a historic street now presented in modern form – it’s here you’ll find our oasis from the usual restaurants.

Our restaurant’s philosophy is founded on the words of Salvador Dali: ‘You might not eat everything, but you should never eat badly’.

Our menu presents creative global flavors and yet is underlined by its strong Polish accents. The chef, meanwhile, introduces principles of physics to the kitchen, which is why you’ll find strawberry snow, dusts, kale chips with caviar, smoked strawberries and fruit foam all on our menu.

Additionally, our daily lunch deals (Mon-Fri noon till 4 p.m.) are available for just 19.90zł. Join us in our two floor restaurant, or on our seasonal terrace.

Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2015

listings / restaurants communal table, etc. The seasonal menu is a pick-and-mix of small-to-medium plates, including a halibut gravlax, whose delicate taste juxtaposes well against the rougher, earthier kick of the radish, and crayfish presented in a bird’s nest of green beans, fennel and leek. For mains, look for the braised beef. $

No communal tables, no pipes and no rough-hewn bricks. Instead, there’s a swan white elegance here, with lots of pristine colors and smart, smooth-talking service.

What a refreshing change. The chef favors sous-vide techniques, and his is a magic, masterful hand – his duck is flawless, and the homemade ice cream with seasonal fruits is quite a follow-up. Even the cocktails are a thing of brilliance. $$

Stółdzielnia (D9) ul. Kazimierzowska 22, tel. 22 845 00 67, stoldzielnia.pl A complete anomaly Stółdzielnia looks more like one of those one-day pop-up restaurants: unfinished looking, with odd-shaped tables and stark colors. But keep an open mind because the food scores big points. The pizza, pasta and seafood dishes incorporate imported Italian ingredients, and come close to blowing your mind. $$

Szklarnia ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), tel. 690 511 020, restauracjaszklarnia.pl The cuisine is influenced by the season, which means plenty of light summer dishes presented with real aplomb. Recognizable by the dazzle of neon and greenhouse outside, this is a restaurant that seamlessly fits with the Soho surrounds. $$

Strefa (C3) ul. Próżna 9, tel. 22 255 0850, restauracjastrefa.pl Just what were they thinking ignoring the form book like that?

Tamka 43 (E3) ul. Tamka 43, tel. 22 441 6234, tamka.43.pl Ground floor: upmarket cafe serving Chopin fans. Upstairs: a fine dining restaurant in

which the seasonal menu sets the natural flavors of Poland against the culinary know-how of tomorrow. It’s easy to drop serious money here, but you’ll still feel it’s worthwhile. $$$ Tapage (D6) pl. Zbawiciela 5 It’s best to think of Tapage as a testing ground for experimental ideas.

Opened by the same team behind Kaskrut, it’s split into three distinct areas: a terrace, a snug white-tiled bar, and an upstairs nook up some spiral stairs. The menu (scheduled to change every couple of weeks) is brief with dishes presented like proud little artworks.

We tried everything (!), and particularly loved the salmon served with sriracha and a bed of diced pineapple. The overlapping tastes form a perfect combination leaving diners stunned. $$ Wilczy Głód (D5) ul. Wilcza 29A, tel. 22 891 0285 The jaunty, impish design makes use of cartoonish wolves on the walls and tree-like installations strung with bare light bulbs. And look, there’s

CHRISTMAS DINNER AT LE VICTORIA BRASSERIE MODERNE

CHRISTMAS BRUNCH AT KITCHEN GALLERY

Enjoy a 5-course Christmas dinner reflecting the beauty of Polish Christmas culinary culture and the unique “Art de Noel” of French tradition.

December 24-26 | Price: PLN 150 Reservations: Tel.: 22 657 83 82 Email: brasserie.moderne@sofitel.com

Gourmand Christmas culinary experience for the whole family. Enjoy a unique family Christmas gathering at Sofitel Warsaw Victoria.

Date: December 25 | Price: PLN 175 Reservations: Tel.: 22 657 82 62 Email: kitchen.gallery@sofitel.com

MAGNIFIQUE FESTIVE SEASON AT SOFITEL WARSAW VICTORIA Discover the art of celebrating Christmas and enjoy a sparkling New Year’s Eve Cabaret Revue at Sofitel Warsaw Victoria.

NEW YEAR’S EVE AT SOFITEL WARSAW VICTORIA

Welcome the New Year in a cabaret style and enjoy a spectacular revue show prepared by Małgorzata Potocka and the Sabat Theatre.

Date: December 31 | Price: PLN 690 per person (beverages included) Reservations: Tel.: 22 657 82 89 | Email: H3378-CR@sofitel.com

SOFITEL WARSAW VICTORIA KRÓLEWSKA 11, 00-065 WARSAW, POLAND TEL.:+48 22 6578011 - E-MAIL: H3378@SOFITEL.COM

reklama_art_de_noel_insider_144x102_swv.indd 1

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listings / restaurants a furry, mouse resting on a cushion. But if the place is playful and perky, then the cooking is both serious and sincere. Matching international ideas with organic local produce from small family farmsteads, you immediately sense this is a place created out of a love and respect for food. $ Znajomi Znajomych (C5) ul. Wilcza 58A, open Mon-Thu 12:00-1:00; Fri 12:00-3:00; Sat 13:00-3:00; Sun 13:001:00, znajomiznajomych.waw.pl You can’t label Zna Zna a restaurant because it’s so much more than that: screenings, DJs, yard sales, book readings… there’s not a thing they don’t turn their hand to. But that’s not to say this retro-styled hangout can’t turn their hand to food – here that means light bites, pizzas, burgers and a recommended chili con carne. $$

Ave Pizza Piękna 56 (D6) ul. Piękna 56,tel. 22 412 0656, avepizza.pl After experiencing landslide success in Powiśle the Ave team have listened to the market and expanded to the center.

While pizza still plays a prominent role, their newest location is more serious and sophisticated in its culinary intent. Dishes like prawns in parma ham win blanket approval, while the semifreddo stop you in your tracks. $$

Żurawina (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34, tel. 22 521 06 66, zurawina.eu First a wine bar, second a restaurant, but the food here is such that it merit attention. There’s only seven or so mains to pick from, and the chef has them down to a tee – rib eye with shallots and truffle butter?

Yes please. Certainly, the quality befits one of Warsaw’s best wine bars.

Bacio (D5) ul. Wilcza 43, tel. 22 626 83 03, bacio.pl New look Bacio has been de-cluttered and simplified and now features a stripped down look and a menu that peaks with the duck in red wine risotto. Portions are huge, and are matched by a quality that’s seen this once ailing giant reinstalled as one of the top Italian eats in town. $$

italian

Delizia (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 22 622 6665, delizia. com.pl The sheer proliferation of Italian restaurants lends an element of chance to dining out: cut through the noise by

Ave Pizza (E3) ul. Topiel 12, tel. 22 828 8507, avepizza.pl

Le Cedre 61

opposite the zoo Al. Solidarności 61, Praga Tel 22 670 11 66 lecedre@lecedre.pl

www.lecedre.pl

The argument over who serves Warsaw’s best pizza goes right to the wire, but there’s no doubting that Ave Pizza are up there on the leaderboard. Set across a sparse, metropolitan area, this fashionable L-shaped joint comes endorsed by the capital’s notoriously picky Italian community. Order the pillowy calzone and you’ll soon learn why. $

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visiting Delizia, a place that’s consistently topped polls ever since it launched in 2010.

Lorenzo’s cooking is upscale Italian with a contemporary twist, and comes presented by Luca, an ebullient ball of energy who patrols the floor with sparkling good humor. In the hands of these two an unforgettable night comes guaranteed. Top quality imported products, a dimly-lit romantic atmosphere, a tasteful design and faultless food: no wonder so many rate this as their favorite Italian. $$ Dziurka od Klucza (E3) ul. Radna 13, tel. 500 150 494, dziurkaodklucza.com.pl An inviting Italian restaurant in which curious doors sit embedded into the walls, as if waiting to be opened by the keys that hang on the tree outside.

Striking a lavender look, the magic of this restaurant is affirmed by its wonderful pasta and intimate style. $$ Focaccia (D2) ul. Senatorska 13/15, tel. 22 829 6969, focaccia.pl You will find people ordering pizza, but they’re missing out on a marvelous menu that includes a great big octopus served with lemon mousse, and a simply stunning beef tenderloin in madeira sauce.

This is seriously talented cooking inside a fresh and light restaurant that reflects the nature of the food. $$ Kotłownia ul. Suzina 8, tel. 22 833 23 27, winiarnia-kotlownia.pl You’d never guess

Le Cedre 84

opposite the court Al. Solidarności 84 Tel 22 618 89 99 lecedre84@lecedre.pl

listings / restaurants from the grey surrounds but Kotłownia is one of the emerging stars of Warsaw dining.

Set in a historic disused boiler house (the Warsaw Uprising started right outside!) a generous helping of wooden touches warm the split level industrial interiors, but it’s the food that steals the show. The modern Italian menu reflects the owner’s passion for Italy, as does the handpicked wine list. The convivial atmosphere makes it perfect for a long, lazy lunch. $$ La Bufala (B4) ul. Sienna 86, tel. 22 654 3277 Not long back this was the go-to place for Italian expats looking for pizza. What’s gone wrong? No idea, but recent trips reveal a kitchen that hasn’t so much rested on its laurels as died on them. $ Mąka i Woda (D4) ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 91 87 Purists applaud an approach that uses a custom-made oven from Naples and imported ingredients such as 00 Caputo flour and DOP certified San Marzano tomatoes.

Scrupulously authentic, it’s no wonder that it’s packed to the gunnels every night of the week – even their Facebook page warns of 20 minute waiting times for a table alone. Learning this, some storm off in a huff – they need their heads checked, for this is Warsaw’s best pizza. $ Parmizzano’s (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel, Floor 1), tel. 22 630 6306 The prices are highly intimidating, but are offset by cooking that never falls below brilliant. Hotel restaurants get a bad rep, but in the formal surrounds of Parmiazzano’s diners can expect Italian food at its very best. $$$ Ristorante San Lorenzo (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 36, tel. 22 652 1616, sanlorenzo.pl Adorned with crisp, starched linen and Roman frescos this space is almost magisterial in design. The Tuscan menu is flawless and well worth the rather hefty bill.

The wine bar on the ground floor features the same standards at a snip of the price, and it’s here you’ll find Italian natives cheering the Serie A football. Now also on Żurawia 6/12, only with a more modish design clearly targeted at a slightly younger audience. $$ The Olive (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6706 Bursting with seasonal fruits and veggies, it’s

a fresh, fun place to eat. Hot and cold buffet for zł. 90. $$$ Venti-tre (E8) ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel), tel. 22 558 1094 There’s a hum and a buzz to the place that goes beyond the half a million bees kept in the apiary on the rooftop, and that’s never truer than on a Sunday afternoon – swing by for one of Warsaw’s top brunches, and don’t miss the terrace – carefully shielded from the outside world by a phalanx of greenery. The Mediterranean menu has been carefully constructed using local ingredients, with the results befitting one of Warsaw’s top hotels. $$$

‘Simplicity, elegance and atmosphere’

japanese & sushi

Benihana (C4) ul. Twarda 2/4, benihanapoland.com So the sushi is good, but it’s the teppan grill(s) that people are raving about. Full of theatricals, sit back and watch chefs flipping shrimp tails into their hats whilst cracking wise with their captive audience. Putting the fun back into dining, there’s something immensely enjoyable about eating quality beef amid leaping flames and whooping customers. $$

Cafe • Wine Bar • Restaurant • Whisky Bar • Wine Cellar ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 515 037 001 www.hoza.warszawa.pl www.facebook.com/hoza25 Open 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-21:00

Hana Sushi al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), tel. 22 331 7518, hanasushi.pl Dated decor of bamboo shoots and bonsai trees is made to look good by dreadful service and irritating elevator music. But it’s hard to dislike Hana – the ‘gunkan special’ is out of this world. $$ Izumi Sushi ul. Mokotowska 17 (pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 22 825 7950, izumisushi.eu The original location never ceases to amaze with its sushi, though it’s the addition on Biały Kamień that really gets people talking. Here it’s not just the food that wows, but the interiors: a huge venue whose open plan doubles as an indoor forest – you need to see it to believe it. $$ Omami (D5) ul. Mokotowska 29 (enter from Krucza) Sushi has been side-lined and ramen is rising.

Opened at press time, Omami promise four www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / restaurants types of ramen, not to mention steamed buns and other budget-minded Japanese options. $ Ramen Girl (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 61 Already a huge hit in Kraków, Ramen Girl’s Warsaw debut has been met with positive reviews. Find the core of the action downstairs, in a basement swathed in concrete and dangling LED filament bulbs. Appealing to post-hipster creative types and other 30-something go-getters, the environment is raw but never sterile nor low on comfort. The star turn belongs to the ramen, with the ‘orange’ (duck breast, orange, pickled cucumber, ginger) doing enough to convince us that RG could yet become a massive success story – full review coming soon. $$ Sakana Sushi Bar ul. Burakowska 5/7 tel. 22 636 0505, ul. Moliera 4/6, tel. 22 826 5958, & ul.

Wąwozowa 6, lok.10B, tel. 22 498 8899, sakana.pl Sushi as a fashion statement?

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That’s what you find in Sakana, a place where the glam and the great of Warsaw peacock around with feathers on display. Ignoring the general vanity and unpleasantness, one can’t help but applaud the sushi – if there was one winner in the sushi wars of the noughties, then Sakana was it. $$ Sushi Zushi (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 420 3373, sushizushi.pl The mania for sushi is in recess, and that’s a good thing – the rogue operators are dead or dying off, and are survived by the best. And make no mistake, Sushi Zushi continue to be the No. 1 ex-pat choice. Appreciated by a stunning crowd, the rolls are often bold, creative and always astonishingly fresh. $$ Tomo (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2344, tomo.pl Excellent. While Warsaw’s other sushi stops gather cobwebs Tomo packs out each night – that should say enough. With the maki, sushi and sashimi bobbing past on wooden

platters, this place aims for fast, maximum turnover without ever making the diner feel second best. $$ Uki Uki (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, tel. 728 827 705, ukiuki.pl Depending on how busy they are, Uki Uki will prepare your Udon noodles fresh within 15-30 minutes. The electric pasta maker, imported from Japan, is a Godzilla of a monster, compressing and even cutting the udon dough into chunky, chewy noodles that provide a solid foundation for a richly satisfying meal. Every now and again a restaurant comes along that makes Warsaw’s dining scene all the more complete – Uki Uki is one of those. $$ Wabu (D5) ul. Krucza 41/43, tel. 22 628 9274, wabu.pl The food is a masterpiece: immaculate futomaki rolls that look like little artworks, exquisite butterfish and glorious tuna gunkan that flashes with freshness. Soon enough it all becomes a blur of beautiful compositions,

listings / restaurants of silky slithers of fish crowned with expert pinches of this, and little brush strokes of that. The details don’t seem to matter, what does is that Wabu blow the competition out of the water, even if it does leave the credit card streaming smoke. $$$

jewish Galil (C3) ul. Zielna 36, tel. 731 492 634, galil-restaurant.pl There’s been a few Jewish restaurants opened in the last couple of years, and they’ve all quickly folded. Already though, there’s the impression Galil might last the distance, a point underlined by the rather good food. We started with a zesty tabouleh before moving on to grilled chicken breast with dates and a syrup glaze. Set inside a rambling, tiled interior, this labyrinthine space already looks like its snaring big-spending groups. Kosher certified, as well. $$ Pod Samsonem (C1) ul. Freta 3/5, tel. 22 831 1788, podsamsonem.pl Operating since the 1950s – crazy when you think about it. This is the place for an ordinary meal in an ordinary space. The menu mixes aspects of Polish and Jewish cooking, and fails to do a good job of either. Entertainment is provided by the staff: find them engaged in something akin to war with the people they serve. $

latin & mexican Aioli (D3) ul. Świętokrzyska 18, tel. 22 290 102, aioli-cantine.com This runaway hit has taken Warsaw by storm. It’s a jaunty space with hams hanging from hooks and long communal tables that thrive with life. Aioli’s breakfasts, sandwiches, pastas and pizzas are a lesson in simple pleasure: nothing out of the world, just consistently good. This and the liberal prices mean there’s no shortage of people passing in and out the doors. $$ Blue Cactus (E8) ul. Zajączkowska 11, tel. 22 851 2323, bluecactus.pl It’s been around for so long that people had started referring to the Cactus in the past tense. Enter executive chef Patrick Hanna, a man who has revitalized and revived the place in a way no-one could have imagined. Combining the barbecuing

techniques of the southern states with the humble but potent tastes of Mexico, Hanna has reawakened this sleeping giant.

Committed to local produce and fresh flavors, his finest moment has been hoiking over a wood-fired grill all the way from Nashville – the steaks will stop you in your tracks. Say it loudly: the Blue Cactus is back! $

Casa Pablo (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5A, tel. 22 324 5781, casapablo.pl “We give Spanish food a new twist,” declares chef Gonzalo de Salas, which explains why, in between pungent cheeses and acorn-fed Bellota ham, we find ourselves demolishing a variety of dishes that buck all notions of tradition: as a starter the beetroot-marinated salmon served with wasabi emulsion is a fine example of this.

With de Salas performing balletic tricks in the kitchen, Casa Pablo presents a masterful menu that ripples with adventure. $$

Newly opened location of Soul Kitchen Bistro.

Modern, classic Polish cuisine

Ceviche Bar (C4) ul. Twarda 4, cevichebar.pl Created by the award-winning Martin Gimenez Castro, Warsaw’s first specialist ceviche bar serves up various interpretations of this classic raw fish dish: the corvina is an explosion of peppy, citrusy tastes and leaves you in no doubt why some are tipping ceviche to become as big as sushi. Try for yourself inside a contemporary space in which the dining area merges seamlessly with a kitchen decorated with a mural of Maradona. $$ Dos Tacos (D4) ul. Jasna 22, tel. 22 243 4618, dostacos.pl Dos Tacos finally have a venue worthy of the food. Featuring lots of Mexican lizard art and psychedelic, Day of the Dead touches, find the interiors busy with a lively crowd enjoying an exciting range of salsas and authentic Mexican recipes as cooked by Isabela Balderas. $$ Gringo Bar (E9) ul. Odolańska 15, tel. 22 848 9523 A Mexican wave is upon us, and high time too. After years of suffering frozen ingredients, timid flavors and daft Mariachi music to persuade us it’s all authentic, a raft of new cut-price eateries are showing the rest how it’s done. Cooked and folded by fist bumping lads in back-to-front caps and

ul. Nowogrodzka 18A tel. 519 020 888 www.soulkitchen.pl www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / restaurants baggy t-shirts, the food at Gringo is by far the best of the bunch: fiery, fresh and full of zing.

Newly expanded, meaning diners no longer engage in games of Twister while grappling with their burrito.

Jamon (D2) ul. Wierzbowa 9, tel. 22 692 4223, jamon.pl The place looks the biz – custom made artwork presents swirling senoritas against an interior that’s based around a naval color palette and reclaimed wood touches.

Perfect for ‘hot dates’. There’s an onus on authenticity, and that’s evidenced by the four Spaniards found in the kitchen. We could find no weak point, meaning complete enjoyment of the tranche of black Alaskan cod, bulgy-eyed Huelva prawns and slow-roasted lamb shank. (Update: Closed at press time).

La Fiesta Tequila Bar (E4) ul. Foksal 21, tel. 22 829 8560, lafiesta.pl What was once a pretty diabolical Mexican joint has, apparently, experienced a dramatic turnabout. The sombreros and crap have

been replaced by a psychedelic, Day of the Dead-style featuring skeletal Mariachi men, not to mention no shortage of tequila bottles. But the real gossip is reserved for the kitchen: gone are the fraudsters who used to work here, and in their place is Jorge Martinez – no guessing where he’s from. Is his menu up to scratch? Absolutely no idea. We left after having a run-in with the worst service experienced since the Cold War ended. $ Tapas Gastrobar (A4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 251 1310, tapasbar.pl The engaging design features scuffed timber tables supported by rescued factory metal, open ductwork and elaborate floor tiles of Iberian persuasion. But the food is what everyone is talking about: the first class gazpacho, prepared onsite then served in a bottle, is full of refreshing zing, while the beef cheek is pure melty tenderness.

Our favorite, though, are the patatas bravas, perfectly fried potatoes served in a ballsy BEST tomato sauce. Just amazing. $$ WAWA 2014 “Casual Dining”

middle eastern Le Cedre (E1) Al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166, www.lecedre.pl With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops. $$

Le Cedre 84 (B3) Al. Solidarności 84, tel. 22 618 8999, lecedre.pl Le Cedre just keep on getting it right. Authenticity is key in this chainlette (well, there’s another across the river), as you’ll discover when talking to Tony, the

Krakowskie Przedmieście 64 tel. +48 22 826 4770 email. info@delicjapolska.pl www.delicjapolska.pl

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listings / restaurants Lebanese owner. To see the diversity of this cuisine, order the balbaak (six cold starters) or the byblos (six hot). And food aside, it’s the atmosphere that carries them that extra yard: the whole philosophy of this cuisine is to share and share alike, making it a uniquely engaging experience when dining with friends. $$ Meza Beirut (D4) ul. Ordynacka 13, tel. 22 692 7555, mezabeirut.pl God knows how many restaurants have chanced their luck in this location, though Meza Beirut look a better bet than most to break the hex. Lebaneserun, the menu here is comprehensive with all the requisite hot and cold mezze and grilled and skewered meats. $$

food is pure contemporary Poland, and well deserving of its Michelin nod. For that, thank chef Robert Skubisz. $$$ Atelier Amaro (E6) ul. Agrykola 1, tel. 22 628 5747, atelieramaro.pl The recipient of Poland’s only Michelin star, Atelier promotes pedigree Polish produce enhanced by modern techniques, with courses interspersed

by occasionally bizarre interludes (leaves, flowers, twigs, etc.). Don’t miss the bespoke vodka menu, either. It’s an extraordinary dining experience, and one which confirms the growing cult of chef Wojciech Amaro. In the hours you’re here, the world stops and you leave feeling like James Bond. Reservations are mandatory, with a waiting list that is approximately two to three months long. $$$ BEST WAWA 2014 “Presentation”

Sokotra (D5) ul. Wilcza 27, tel. 22 270 2766, sokotra.pl It says a lot for Warsaw’s developing tastes that it can now house a successful Yemeni venture. Bathed in chatter and chaotic kitchen sounds, Sokotra is an informal place with Indian twists on the menu, and a card that encourages plenty of plate sharing. $$

polish

Ale Gloria (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7080, alegloria.pl Who said romance was dead?

Here wedding white colors are fused with a strawberry motif inside this gourmet fave.

Keeping patrons returning are aromatic dishes with a contemporary twist – try the duck in rose sauce. $$$

Amber Room at the Sobański Palace (E6) Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, amberroom.pl The Amber Room is, indeed, a bit of a treasure. You know all the chefs we bang on about in this mag? Bottom line, the good ones came through via this kitchen.

But this is more than a training ground for future stars, it’s a place that remains on the cutting edge in spite of its seemingly straight look. Positioned inside a majestic villa, the

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listings / restaurants Bazyliszek (D1) Rynek Starego Miasto 1/3, tel. 22 831 1841, bazyliszek.waw.pl Some parts of Bazyliszek hark to its years as a stately, stuffy restaurant. Now though it’s more earthy, with Jurassic portions of meaty, lardy food best consumed with one-liter beers. The Rynek location and festive atmosphere account for its popularity more than anything that comes from the kitchen. $

Belvedere Łazienki Królewskie ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. 22 558 6701, belvedere.com.pl Regarded as one of the great names on Warsaw’s culinary carousel, this restaurant never ceases to impress: set in a imperial age glass orangery, it’s festooned with intricate latticework and botanical exotica. The updated interiors are the work of acclaimed set designer Boris Kudlicka, and lend a fresh, contemporary tone that goes hand in hand with Adam Komar’s menu. But behind the gels and emulsions and pretty little swirls, this is cooking of substantial depth; it’s cooking that takes you to the very soul of Polish nature. $$$ Bistro Warszawa (D1) ul. Jezuicka 1/3, tel. 22 635 3769, bistrowarszawa.pl The menu cites pre-war recipe books as its influence, and on it you’ll

find such dishes as goose in thyme sauce with pear and zucchini. The interiors are strictly contemporary though, with vanilla colored furnishings, wine racks and walls papered with hundreds of theater scripts and book pages. Regular jazz performances draw people city-wide. $$ Chłopskie Jadło (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1717 A nationwide chain enterprise designed to mimic a peasant inn, what with all the clunky pots and rustic supplements. And if it’s farmers fare you’re after then the food isn’t bad either, with thick, lumpy servings of countryside classics and soup presented in bread. Twenty-something Poles cringe at such a representation of their country, but there’s no denying it: it’s an accurate caricature of a mountain-slope karczma. $

Czerwony Wieprz (Red Hog) (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 22 850 3144, czerwonywieprz.pl Now everyone is rich and happy, it’s easy to forget communism was a pretty dire experiment. Which explains the playful nature of this commie themed restaurant. Dining is done under red banners and paintings of nasty political activists, while the menu is a humorous affair divided between dishes for the dignitary and

proletariat – all details that saw it names as one of the Top 25 Unique Restaurants in the World. Another vodka, comrade, and the First Secretary’s pork loins while you’re there! $$ Delicja Polska (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 64, tel. 22 826 4770, delicjapolska.pl Looking stately (pink bows, gilt touches and immaculate linen) but never stuffy, Delicja have a modern Polish menu that includes sous-vide salmon marinated in beetroot leaves, then topped with horseradish foam and dill emulsion.

Brilliant. But then so was everything else we tried, including the exquisite seasoned roast beef. $$

Dom Polski (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 2432, restauracjadompolski. pl Almost like it was designed for the manor born, Dom Polski has the rarefied atmosphere of a country retreat: bow-tied staff who click their heels, decorative antiques and a menu that’s a sumptuous anthology of posh Polish cooking. When you need to give visitors a sense of classic Warsaw, Dom Polski is the first out of the hat. $$$ Dom Polski Belwederska (F8) ul. Belwederska 18A, tel. 22 840 5060, restauracjadompolski.pl See in Autumn amid curling pathways and bursting shrubs, or sit inside in an interior that conjures images

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listings / restaurants of an aristocrat’s manor. The air of privilege matches a menu that’s rich in fanciful classics such as their signature goose. Elegant and exquisite, consider it your default choice for a taste of true Poland. $$

RESTAURANT &

VODKA

AT E L I E R

Elixir by Dom Wódki (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl The dashing interior causes you to stop, look and touch. On one side, a gleaming bar with twinkling bottles, and on the other, a smart series of rooms whose ash-colored tones are punctuated with copper. The menu has a traditional heart yet a contemporary style, and includes golonka to make the heart flutter: glorious slow-cooked meat alongside horse radish ice cream and a creamy cabbage mousse. The vodka pairing menu is essential! $$

Folk Gospoda (B3) ul. Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605, folkgospoda.pl Be honest, sometimes all you want to do is slather lard on a big hunk of bread before surrounding yourself with little shots of ice cold vodka. You wouldn’t call it cultivated, but there are occasions when a good knees-up around a rough wooden table is exactly what’s required. And while you’re there, why not add platters of meat to the scene, a crackling fireplace and a mountain band. Folk Gospoda do all that making them the default favorite for a traditional night out. $$ Halka Restaurcja po polsku (E9) ul. Puławska 43, tel. 509 593 305, restauracjahalka.pl Named in honor of one of Poland’s best known operas, Halka offer a glimpse of old school Warsaw. Having relocated from downtown Pańska, the new address is a cut and paste of the former location: lots of glinting surfaces, ornate crockery and pink flower arrangements. Innovation is surrendered for a menu that deals in classic interpretations of upmarket Polish food: rabbit, goose, duck and other animals shot on country estates.

Jaś & Małgosia (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 57, tel. 502 033 711, klubjasimalgosia.pl Back from the dead!

An institution dating from the 60s, Jaś & Małgosia have reopened after a three year hiatus. Updated they might be, but the design (concrete floors, exposed brickwork) features several nods to the past – not least a replica of the famous neon that once crowned the roof. The menu was designed in collaboration with Aleksander Baron, and while unglamorous and uncomplicated is food that represents all that’s good about the Polish kitchen: thick soups, fresh vegetables and hefty meat. Most of all, it makes you feel good on a wet, windy day. $ Kafe Zielony Niedzwiedź (E4) ul. Smolna 4, tel. 731 996 006 The Smolna address is a bit misleading – in reality, you’ll be traipsing down into the park under the ‘hammer head’ tower before reaching this park-based restaurant. But you’ll be glad you did. The menu includes a full appendix of their suppliers and is all organic this and acorn-fed that. This is a happy marriage where traditions are turned on their head using creative techniques and precise presentation.

And don’t forget dessert: the sea buckthorn cream being served in October turned out to be our favorite sweet of the year so far. $$

Traditional Polish cuisine Best venison and lamb in Warsaw Live music Regional wine, beer and spirits Grand Kredens - 18 years full of tradition

Kieliszki na Próżnej (C3) ul. Próżna 12, tel. 501 764 674, kieliszkinaproznej.pl You’ll find Kieliszki na Próżnej, the latest restaurant to mark the rehabilitation of Próżna, so named after the 1,116 wineglasses that hang tantalizingly over the bar. As an anchor feature the suspended glassware is arresting, and equaled only by a long stretch of wall art doodled by Mariusz Tarkawian.

The food matches up to the interiors, with a modern Polish menu that – on our visit – involved a thick, brilliantly spreadable foie gras pate, a thick slab of brawn and a delicate piece of moist Baltic cod. It’s pure seasonal comfort. $$ Mała Polana Smaków (F9) ul. Belwederska 13/44, tel. 22 400 8048, polanasmakow.pl Put simply, it works on every level: from the service to the space – outside, a terrace featuring upcycled crates overlooking Morskie Oko, and on the inside, a cute little room with woodsy bits and big glass jars of mystery ingredients. It’s casual, but still fit for more serious roles: e.g. girlfriend night. And the food: exceptional.

Lots of seasonally changing choices that on our visit meant salmon sausage matched with beetroot and horseradish sauce along with pinches of lavender and fennel. $$

Aleje Jerozolimskie 111 tel. +48 22 629 80 08 Mob. +48 697 900 000 kredens@kredens.com.pl www.kredens.com.pl Follow us on Facebook www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / restaurants Papu (D9) al. Niepodległości 132/136, tel. 22 856 7788, restauracjapapu.pl The elegant décor sees wood-paneled walls lined with champagne bottles, making it an experience that is at once intimate and romantic. Chef Bartek Kędra’s menu is specifically strong when it comes to white and red meats: order the beef rib. It’s a massive, brutal instrument that could be used to club someone to death. Fall-off-the-bone good, this Flintstone monster is seriously memorable. Other courses are more sophisticated, and include a knee trembling, lipstick red strawberry tartar. $$ Podwale Piwna Kompania (D2) ul. Podwale 25, tel. 22 635 6314, podwale25.pl Prowling mountain bands generate a beer hall atmosphere, while the courtyard garden – designed to replicate a Mitteleuropa square – is one of the best you’ll find. But the obscene portions can’t mask what is pretty poor food. Go there for the experience, if nothing else. $

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Prasowy (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16 Delicate diners turn their back on milk bars, yet this canteenstyle phenomenon, with its history rooted in communism, has enjoyed a remarkable renaissance and a freshly found popularity with a new generation. Sure, the food is an acquired taste and best described using words like ‘basic’, ‘bland’ and ‘honest’, but Prasowy gets our vote for a cool design that’s seen the 1954 interiors sensitively updated. $ Przystawki (B1) ul. Stawki 3, tel. 22 299 1619, przystawki. com Welcome to Muranów: the black hole of local gastronomy. But change is in the air – first came the opening of Jaś i Małgosia, and now comes Przy Stawki. Both keep it simple, gunning for a straight forward menu that presents the kind of cooking you’d like to see at the in-laws: local ingredients cooked with care. In a nutshell, this is Polish home cooking at moderate prices. More places like this, please. $

Restauracja Pod Gigantami (E5) Al. Ujadowskie 24, tel. 22 629 2312, podgigantami.pl Despite being judged worthy of a recommendation by the scouts at Michelin, Pod Gigantami divides local opinion; it’s not just the Insider that’s found the food only satisfactory. But the wine list impresses, as do the painfully ornate turn-of-the-century interiors. $$$ Restauracja Polska “Różana” (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 22 848 1225, restauracjarozana.com.pl The rarified atmosphere of Różana is a pleasure indeed.

Close to the frontline of Mokotów / Śródmieście, you’d never guess the proximity of the center. Seated in their garden, one feels removed from the city – a fountain burbles quietly in the background, starlings hop around the trees. From the inside, one hears the distant tinkle of the house pianist.

Just being here is a thrill in itself, and the food is a Polish dining extravaganza served from the top table: farmhouse duck, saddle of venison, etc.

listings / restaurants Słoik (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 600 396 688, restauracjasloik.pl Jarheads will love Słoik, a place lined with glass jars brimming with colorful ingredients and bright preserves.

Find natural Polish produce and traditionalsounding dishes treated with a careful and contemporary hand. The approach pits modernist against classic, and the winner is, well, you. This is traditional Polish food updated for the discerning, latter day palate – and it’s really quite something. $$ Stary Dom ul. Puławska 104/106, tel. 22 646 4208, restauracjastarydom.pl A classic restaurant in style and history: back in the day it was a favorite haunt of jockeys and race goers from the horse track nearby. Pre-war recipes form the basis of the menu, with the team using seasonal produce and the latest technology to bring out its best. $$ U Fukiera (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 27 (Old Town Market

Square), tel. 22 831 1013, ufukiera.pl New arrivals looking to get a grasp of local cuisine have many options in varying price brackets. U Fukiera is definitely in the big spend category, but visitors come away with a common sense of wonderment. That’s largely due to enchanting interiors that have guests exploring twinkling chambers that unravel like a fairytale. Set in a 500 year old townhouse, the beautiful backdrop is accompanied by a grand menu of duck, venison, veal and lamb. $$$

Varso Vie (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 2, varso-vie.pl Despite the concrete color palette Varso Vie retains a good buzz. It helps that on one side guests are flanked by punchy bursts of modern art, and on the other, an open kitchen that’s all clamor, commotion and general rumpus. The menu is modern Polish: duck stomachs in a flaky puff pastry

with a thick smear of thyme sauce; Baltic trout served on a pinkish mush of red lentils and mint; and a coveted meringue mousse with mascarpone and passion fruit jelly.

Exemplary. $$

Zapiecek Locations inc. ul. Nowy Świat 64, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska 13, tel. 22 635 61 09, & ul. Wańkowicza 1, open 11:00-22:00, CH Arkadia, zapiecek. eu Seven Warsaw locales, with our favorite found in the vaulted passages of Świętojańska. The menu is highly traditional, with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’.

It’s for the pierogi though for which they’re famous; find approx. fifty types delivered by servers dressed like saucy country maids. $ Zielnik (D10) ul. Odyńca 15, tel. 22 844 3500,

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listings / restaurants restauracjazielnik.pl A quiet Mokotów side street is the setting for this little secret. In it, flowers, lots of them, and a warming wood interior just right for winter. And then the food arrives: dainty veal dumplings, and tender braised veal that’s good for the chills. You leave knowing you have eaten honestly and well. $$

scandinavian Nabo ul. Zakręt 8, tel. 22 842 0256, nabocafe.pl The décor is, we’re told, typical Danish cafe – bold open windows, simple lines, high shelves filled with books and games on the table. But what is Danish food? There’s Old Danish on the menu: meatballs and open face sandwiches with meat and fish in various textural configurations and then there’s New Danish: an emerging trend towards fresh, seasonal food (no microwave oven at Nabo), with locally sourced and innovatively concocted ingredients. $$

specialty food shops Bazar Olkuska (E10) ul. Olkuska 12 Once a sad little side street, Olkuska has evolved to become just about the worst kept secret in Warsaw. Home to the city’s top eco-market, trips here end with shopping bags filled with French cheeses, Italian hams, Hungarian sausages and fresh fruit and veg. And don’t miss a chat with the nation’s most celebrated butcher: Pan Grzegorz of Crazy Butcher.

Befsztyk ul. Puławska 176/178, tel. 22 843 6110, befsztyk.pl The Prokopowicz family has come a long way since launching Befsztyk in 1994.

Top restaurants, celebs and ex-pats are listed as clients, and all agree that this operation is indisputably ‘top of the chops’. Find steaks seasoned for three weeks, gluten-free smoked meats, Merino lamb, BBQ kits and so much more. Home delivery, internet ordering and English-speaking staff round out this legend.

Bio Bazar (B4) ul. Żelazna 51/53, tel. 22 318 8855, open Wed, Fri & Sat (see website for details), biobazar.org.pl Fruit and veg in the first

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warehouse, some of it imported from as far as Argentina. In the second warehouse, find organic cheese varieties from sheep and goats, as well as import brands from Italy, France and the Netherlands.

Forteca Kregliccy ul. Zakroczymska 12, kregliccy.eu/forteca Spot the stars of Warsaw’s restaurant scene perusing the stalls at this weekly farmers’ market. Held each Wednesday, look for Pan Ziółko, Poland’s first celebrity farmer (!), Portobello’s from the country’s only organic mushroom farm and the magical yogurts from Mleczna Droga Manufaktura Serów.

Heritage (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17, tel. 22 857 0912 Some people use Heritage as a wine bar, while others see it as more than that. And so it is. Peruse the Italian hams and cheeses in their fridge, olive oils, sauces and of course wine. Lots and lots of wine.

Kosher Shop (C4) ul. Twarda 6 Snuck to the side of the synagogue, stock up on Kosher produce from the friendly store, before hitting up the falafel tent outside for, aside from the obvious, kosher ice cream.

Kuchnie Świata Various locations, kuchnieswiata.com.pl The first stop for most ex-pats, with an offer that includes food and drinks from across the globe. The choice is vast. Internet ordering now also available.

La Fromagerie (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 465 2324, lafromagerie.pl Top quality cheeses produced by small, artisan producers from England, the major regions of France as well as several other countries. Also, gourmet specialities like Italian parma ham, Spanish chorizo, French sausages, and hard-to-find luxury brands from France, Italy, Greece and more.

La Petite France (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 28, tel. 22 672 9646, lapetitefrance.pl Wine and cheese as well as canned and tinned foods from France.

Le Targ ul. Mińska 25 (SOHO Factory), tel. 603 051 116 Find here a rather random array of products: stands display traditional meats, goat’s cheeses, unconventional preserves,

Greek products, vegan ingredients… it all still seems a bit like a work in progress. The initiative is noble, however.

Marks & Spencer Various locations inc. DT Wars & Sawa, ul.

Marszałkowska 104/122, tel. 22 551 7553, marks-and-spencer.com.pl Visit the flagship Marszałkowska branch to take advantage of the on-site bakery, but visit early as choice diminishes early. Aside from baked goods find a widely appreciated frozen food section that include British sausages, bacon and microwave curries.

Martin’s Good Meat ul. Przejazd 4/7, tel. 797 866 131 Angus, Hereford and Limousine beef, not to mention lamb, veal and seasoned steaks. A candidate for Warsaw’s best butchery, no less!

Samira ul. Powsińska 64A, tel. 22 825 3363, samira. pl Now in bigger and better premises, this Lebanese supermarket offers a comprehensive rundown of imported goods that ranges from spices, preserves and rubs to nuts, olives, teas and soft drinks.

Steak Club Online orders: steakclub.pl Online meat portal that will deliver the kind of beef usually only available to the top restaurants straight to your door. Expat owned and run, the repertoire has recently been extended to include other meats such as turkey.

Trawa Pl. Grzybowski 10 A tight little store whose surprisingly copious food offer (which includes fresh fruit and veg from local markets) is complemented by all kinds of natural unguents, balms, oils and suchlike including those from the celebrated Lavera brand. Highly recommended.

steak houses Beef n’Pepper (C5) ul. Nowogrodzka 47A, tel. 731 307 377 A social space that encourages friends to gather and make merry over big meaty courses. Served on heavy tree stump plates, steaks here use Polish Angus aged for a 28 day period. If you’re into the concept of sharing with your fellow man, then the Beef n’Pepper plate offers a pile of everything: wings, ribs, steak. $$

listings / restaurants Butchery & Wine (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 502 3118, butcheryandwine.pl The Sarf London-born Bertha oven has revolutionized the way steak is cooked, retaining moisture in a way no-one thought possible. Expect robust pieces of animal full of big, brawny tastes, but there’s so much more than just meat: starters involve a sea bass ceviche that pings with citrusy flavor not to mention more-ish pork crackling that pop like fire bangers in the mouth. A place of energy and ambition, it’s a great mix of both new and classic. Bookings advised. $$

Downtown Restaurant (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental Hotel, level 2), tel. 22 328 8745 There’s now a few candidates for Warsaw’s best steak, and Downtown have certainly upped the erm, stakes, with their new menu. Yes, the doors of Downtown are a gateway to heaven – particularly true if, like us, your vision of heaven is a rich green field filled with fat, juicy cows.

But don’t for one moment assume the offer ends with cows. Now added to their menu are other animalitos like kangaroo. $$$ Hoża (D5) ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 603 778 275, hoza.warszawa.pl Wine and steak: it sounds so simple, but Hoża have taken two simple pleasures to another level. It’s a vibrant space with service right out of charm school, and a kitchen team with a real knowledge of cows. A red-blooded affair, the menu is a steak sensation and well paired with a handpicked wine list. $$ Merliniego 5 (E10) ul. Merliniego 5, tel. 22 646 0810, merliniego5.pl A classic looking steakhouse that swirls in shadow, brickwork and elegant touches, it’s a place to immerse yourself in an atmosphere that’s all surreptitious conversation and distant clinking glasses. The steaks are out-of-this world, with USDA prime beef from New York’s legendary Ottomanelli & Sons and Scottish beef from London’s Smithfield Market. On our last visit we splurged on the Grade 9+ wagyu ‘kobe’ rib-eye and found ourselves eating the steak of a lifetime.

Simply amazing. $$$ Muu Muu (D2) ul. Moliera 8, tel. 22 465 1553, muumuu.pl A life-size cow with a menu chained around its neck stands outside as if to say: “turn

back now, vegetarians.” Looking sparky, fun and engaging the décor is composed of light woods and soft touches, not to mention blackboard slogans such as ‘Eat Meat’ and ‘Love Bacon’. The heart of their act is indeed meat, and involves T-bone, rib eye, chateaubriand not to mention a few burgers.

The standard is high, but so too the prices.

Our otherwise excellent sirloin was spoiled somewhat by limp, soggy chips that came at zł. 10 extra. $$

Salto (C6) ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8771, saltorestauracja.pl When Martin Gimenez Castro scooped top prize in the Top Chef program it simply confirmed what foodies had known for years: that this is a man of some talent. Now leading the kitchen in Salto, the highlight of Castro’s menu is undoubtedly the ‘steak weekends’. We challenge you to find better. During the week opt instead for his South American inspired dishes. Salto has the hallmarks of a success story, and under Castro’s captaincy that’s a certainty to happen. $$$

thai

MEDITERRANEAN DELIGHTS IN THE HEART OF WARSAW

Enjoy our modern olive oil based menu, in its various types and flavours

Natara Old Town (D1) ul. Szeroki Dunaj 13, tel. 22 635 2501, natara.pl Last year saw Natara considerably outgunned by the competition, but it remains a top Thai choice. Set inside the old town walls, the exterior looks magical, so it’s disappointing to find an interior that’s all dowdy brown and droopy plants. The food though remains consistently good thanks to an owner who is committed to true Thai tastes. $$ Naam Thai ul. Saska 16, tel. 505 110 100 An anonymous design and out-of-town location never stopped guests flocking here.

But that stands to change after the departure of chef Chanunkan Duangkumma. What was Warsaw’s best Thai now finds itself facing the biggest challenge of its existence. $$ Suparom Thai (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 45/49, tel. 22 627 1888, suparomthaifood.pl Lovely interior with Siamese gold ornaments and gleaming dark wood. The shrimp cakes are always worth a try. $$

Warszawa Ordynacka 10/12

open 12 am - 11 pm

WELCOME

Tel. +48 501 497 410 restauracjaoliva.pl facebook.com/RestauracjaOliva twitter.com/OlivaWarszawa

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listings / restaurants Suparom Thaifood II al. Wilanowska 309, tel. 22 853 3087, suparomthaifood.pl Tiny, when compared to its parent on Marszałkowska, and distinctly unassuming. Suparom’s green curry is the ‘best in the world’ according to one reader, and while such a superlative begs for a challenge, none is forthcoming – not from us, anyhow. $$ Thai Thai (C2) Pl. Teatralny 3, tel. 601 818 283, thaithai.pl In terms of design it’s little short of perfect: gold vaulted interiors lend a muted glow to a largely black on black space while serene looking Buddha’s peer on the diners below.

As for the food, that’s one big success story with plenty of lively flavors and vibrant colors.

The Tom Yang Kung, a deeply nourishing fish broth that awakens the senses with a sharp, spicy jolt, is a must! $$

Thaisty (C2) pl. Bankowy 4, tel. 730 000 024, thaisty. pl The coup here has been the recruitment of Chanunkan Duangkumma, Warsaw’s favorite Thai chef. The menu has street food inspirations and also includes several recipes passed down Duangkumma’s family line: consider the BBQ beef skewers essential.

Vivid colors and a busy open kitchen lend the place a happy buzz that lasts through the day.

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Why Thai (E5) ul. Wiejska 13, tel. 22 625 7698, whythai.pl A fresh attractive look, an authentic chef and a menu that doesn’t waffle on for pages and pages. But there’s something missing here, with the flavors not quite hitting the notes one expects. $$

lovinghut.waw.pl What looks like just another Vietnamese greasy spoon is, in fact, part of a global chain backed by a spiritual master. The reading material is creepy and cultish, but the vegan food is good if you’re that way inclined. Now also found downtown on Waryńskiego 3. $

whole foods

Mango Vegan Street Food (D4) ul. Bracka 20 Everything vegan that you’d actually like to eat: veggie burgers, fries, falafel, soup, a fruit salad – here, obviously a mango salad. Especially recommended is the hummus with sun-dried tomatoes – a nice twist on a simple classic dish.

Krowarzywa (D5) ul. Hoża 42, tel. 516 894 767 Even committed meat eaters concede there’s something special here. This is a burger bar with a difference: the stuff between the bun is vegan – and way superior to the majority of ‘proper’ burger bars. Very popular with the local hipsters, so anticipate bewildering fashion statements and eccentric hair. $ Lokal Vegan Bistro (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, 517 615 122, The interior looks a little like a New Age milk bar, the kind that’s left the design down to IKEA, but looking at the above-counter menu you soon realize there’s more to this place than meets the eye. While you can’t say the food is ‘meat imitation’ the schabowy is a whole lot better than some of the chops we’ve had in our time. And then there’s the kebab, seasoned with seitan, that goes some way to proving fast food doesn’t need to be junk food. $ Loving Hut (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 41A, tel. 888 555 568,

Vegan Pizza (D5) ul. Poznańska 7 While the place lacks effort on the design front (a plain room with local radio piped around), the pizza is pretty good. There’s 24 to pick from, and while it’s not love at first bite, there’s a tendency to get strangely hooked by the new tastes and alien sensations. Definitely an interesting departure from the high street pizzerias.

Recommended: Italian Madness – melty cheese and herby bursts of pesto. $ W Gruncie Rzeczy (D5) ul. Hoża 62, tel. 692 464 489 In culinary terms it’s the polar opposite of neighbors Meat Love, though the patrons are much the same: local hipsters and cool kids. For those who treat their body like a chapel, the vegetarian menu is a gateway to a balanced diet. And it’s tasty, which always helps. $

cafes & wine bars NEW & NOTEWORTHY

DEKANT WINE BAR (ul. Zajęcza 15, dekant.com.pl) Expectations are high: even before they opened Wine Spectator magazine bequeathed Dekant with an ‘Award of Excellence’. Just what’s the buzz about? Primarily a wine choice that is set to eventually extend beyond 500 wines. Set inside an attractive open space, the opening of Dekant is a further indication of Powiśle’s shift from hipster epicenter to upscale playground.

bakeries Aromat (C4) ul. Sienna 39 We’re told the interiors were purposefully kept neutral to keep the focus on the product – and crikey, what bread.

French flour and an expert baker ensure brilliant results, while the lemon éclairs deserve their own Facebook page. Some claim it’s the best bakery in Poland, and we’re not arguing.

Café Vincent (D3) ul. Nowy Świat 64 Ex-pats from France, a nation of master bakers if ever there were, profess Vincent to be their favorite Warsaw bakery. And they’re not alone. Queues build quickly as locals line up to buy baguettes, cinnamon rolls, lemon croissants and beautiful pains au chocolat. But people don’t just head in then out, a small wine list and brilliant people spying opportunities cause most to linger.

Charlotte (D6) Al. Wyzwolenia 18 (enter from pl. Zbawiciela), bistrocharlotte.com The battle lines are drawn: on one side it’s the slobs of Plan B, and on the other the snobs of Charlotte.

While the fancy crowd (all jangling Porsche keys and idiotic selfies) isn’t to everyone’s liking, Charlotte’s baked goods are commonly hailed as things of rare beauty.

Monique Bakery & Wine (D5) ul. Krucza 41/43, moniquebakery.pl Reports have been hit and miss about Monique, with some citing spotty service and heavy handed prices. Even so, their baguettes and croissants always hit the mark.

LA’BOR (ul. Zgoda 1) From the creators of Borpince comes La’Bor, a warm, bricklined bar specializing in Hungarian wines. The Magyar twist extends to the menu which features a smattering of ‘Hungarian-fusion’ dishes served up from canteen containers. Recognizing that not everyone wants wine, the bar area also presents a limited choice of regional beer.

Prices are kept low, installing it as one of the better deals in the area.

Petit Appetit (E6) ul. Mokotowska 45 The smell of freshlybaked loaves often wafts into the street, leaving passers-by with no option but to peer in – sweet temptation. And sweet is the right word: aside from divine baguettes check the pastries and brioches.

SAM (E3) ul. Lipowa 7, sam.info.pl A central, communal table is flanked by smaller satellite tables for parties of two to four while perky seasonal blooms and potted herbs lend a spark of freshness. Co-owner Małgorzata Kusina-Doran is a fine-bread connoisseur, www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / cafés & wine bars honing her skills at a bread-making course chaired by Raymond Blanc.

cafés Czekoladowy (C3) ul. Bagno 2, czekoladowy.eu First launched in Lublin in 2011, expanding to the capital was always on the cards. Set in a modern, glass-fronted unit, Czekoladowy has won blanket praise for its stunning cakes, pralines, truffles and chocolate. Demonstrating a fine eye for detail, the creations of Jakub Przysucha are pure luxury and the perfect antidote to a chilly Warsaw day.

Bar Studio (C4) Pl. Defilad 1 The ascetic, modern décor is intentional – both not to compete with the fine adornment of the original walls and to break through the building’s grandiose airs.

It’s hard not to be overawed by the sheer gigantism of the Palace that looms above.

It seamlessly slips from café during the day into its more culturally active persona in the evenings, with concerts, film screenings, plays and political discussions.

Bułkę przez Bibułkę (E8) ul. Puławska 24, tel. 794 000 634, bulkeprzezbibulke.pl There’s a feminine style to this cafe, what with its cute, girly pastels, petite plant pots and woodsy finishes. But no matter what your gender or age, there’s something immediately sunny and positive about this place. Slow food sandwiches arrive on wooden boards, there’s pretty homemade desserts and a careful choice of wine: falling in love with it is easy.

Być Może (E7) ul. Bagatela 14, tel. 519 000 014, bycmoze. com.pl It’s all about artisan bread and breakfast in the industrial looking Być Może. It’s taken the concept of Charlotte (groan, there’s even a communal table), and improved it with excellent breads and a crowd that’s a little less pleased with itself and a little more normal.

Café Iluzja (C9) ul. Narbutta 50A, afeiluzja.pl Bathed in white, black and shades of grey, it’s an allusion to the black-and-white films of bygone days. The interiors as a whole were designed in a 1950s vibe and the massive armchairs are by far the best part. What more do you expect from a café inside a cult socialist era cinema.

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Café Lorentz (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 3, cafelorentz.pl Set at the front of the National Museum this place has a nice indoor area with high ceilings and minimalist decorations and a green outdoor area populated by wickers chairs and hammocks (obviously, depending on the season).

As is the rage in Warsaw, the menu is light, natural and healthy.

Cava (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 30, cava.pl A prime spot on Nowy Świat’s red carpet keeps business brisk in this high-end cafe. Premium Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee available, and best enjoyed on a seasonal terrace that can barely be bettered for its people spotting opportunities.

Chłodna 25 (B3) ul. Chłodna 25 Maybe resurrecting a legend wasn’t such a good idea after all. People once traveled from all across Warsaw to meet here, but after several closures, noise clampdowns and a change in management it’s a mere shadow of what it once was. Shame. A place of creaking floorboards and retro armchairs, it just needs people to stir it into life.

Chmiel Café (D4) ul. Chmielna 27/31, chmielcafe.pl Rows and rows of Belgian beers occupy the shelves, while behind the counter find pedigree treats, cakes and ice cream from the Slow Food approved Consonni brand.

Forget the industrial rubbish, the ice cream produced by this lot is an absolute standout.

With the outdoor terrace making its debut, it’s the ideal family solution with something for everyone.

Coffee Karma (D6) pl. Zbawiciela 3/5, coffeekarma.eu Order a smoothie, switch off the phone, open a book – it’s that sort of place. Concerts and art shows figure in their repertoire, as does rather good coffee.

Cophi (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60 Deviating away from ‘the Warsaw look’ (i.e. concrete, pipes, etc.), Cophi is the kind of place you actually want to stay in: homey and intimate but at the same time light and modern. You can sense the thought and passion behind this operation from the staff – find them using Aeropress, Chemex, siphon and drip methods with almost scientific precision in their quest to serve you what some are already claiming to be Warsaw’s best coffee.

Crepe Café (E3) ul. Dobra 19 Is there such a thing as the perfect pancake? If not, then Crepe Café certainly comes close. Enjoy them in a contemporary interior that’s tiny in size: grab a seat up on the mezzanine level.

Cukiernia Stary Dom ul. Puławska 104/106, restauracjastarydom. pl A beautifully elegant confectionary that evokes memories of Old Poland. Flock wallpaper and checkered floors add to the high tea ambience, as do the lines of glinting bottles and a counter stocked with temptations. Pastry chef Mariusz Palarczykow is a king in his field.

Cupcake Corner (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 2, cupcakecorner.pl Having made their name in Kraków, the Americaninspired Cupcake Corner arrive in Warsaw ready to go head-to-head with cupcake giants La Vanille. Creations here include chocolate chip cookie, peanut butter cup, and Oreo, with muffins and homemade ice cream (sweet carrot!) also available. ‘We bake happiness,’ they proclaim, and indeed they do.

Czuła Buła (D8) ul. Narbutta 16 With its whitewashed bricks and potted greenery Czuła Buła looks just about like every other café that’s opened this year. Exceedingly pleasant as a summer spot, hats get tipped for their sandwiches, desserts and fruit concoctions. If you’re in the ’hood, why not check it out.

Czuły Barbarzyńca ul. Dobra 31, czuly.pl A Parisian-style bookstore full of steps and wobbles, nooks and alcoves. All agree there’s something special here: maybe it’s the book selection – varied, esoteric and at once compelling. Or maybe it’s the atmosphere, such that browsers anchor themselves on the sofas to lose an afternoon with their nose in a novel while sipping drip coffee. Whatever the secret ingredient is, the bookish bustle makes it the most extraordinary literary hangout in the Polish capital.

Drop Juice Bar ul. Sienna 81 (enter from Żelazna), drop. waw.pl mWhether your body is a temple or a dustbin, squeeze in a visit to the Drop Juice bar (enter through the slidey door leading to the MD Clinic). Specializing in cold pressed juices, smoothies and superfoods, they

listings / cafés & wine bars make a point of using natural products only.

Expect no artificial additives, no pasteurizing and no water cheating its way into your drink.

Fawory ul. Mickiewicza 21 An intimate neighborhood cafe that comes complete with mugs that announce: “Fresh Coffee Tastes Better”. You bet it does. The smoothies and regional beers are just as good though, and come served inside a white interior splashed with an awesome mural.

Francuska 30 (H4) ul. Francuska 30 An attractive modern cafe whose primary talking point is the terrace: a colorful affair shaded by dozens of umbrellas dangling from above.

Kafka Café (E3) ul. Oboźna 3, kawiarnia-kafka.pl A chessboard floor and a collection of antlers on the wall characterize Kafka, a bookstore / café whose literary collection is composed of paperbacks rescued from recycling plants.

Books are purchased by their weight (zł. 10 per kilo) while the menu includes pancakes, pastas and even doggy treats for your mutt.

Kawiarnia Fabryczna ul. Fabryczna 28/30, open 7:30-22:00, www.kawiarniafabryczna.pl Penning your memoirs? Here’s the place to do so. With its natural wood floors, muted lighting and retro style chairs, Fabryczna is just about the definitive Powiśle café. Order an Ethiopian drip coffee and get that notepad out.

Krucza 23 Café & Bakery ul. Krucza 23 They didn’t spend much time thinking about the name, that’s a given, but that’s not to say creativity is entirely absent.

There’s lots of organic activity on the menu, plus an exciting spread of eco-coffee from far-flung nations. Find all this done in a post-industrial interior that makes use of lots of concrete and natural light.

Latający Obiekt (D7) Oleandrów 3, “I like Frisbee, I like beer – that’s why I created this place,” so says Piotr, the owner. Made in Canada Frisbees come in all colors and shapes (even mini-size for mutts), and are complimented by regional beers and homemade biscuits. A bizarre find in Poland – likely the first of its kind.

Le Chocolat (D5) ul. Żurawia 26, lechocolat.pl This chic

emporium is the realization of one couples desire to offer top-quality chocolates that challenge the palate of the discerning fan.

Inspired by the chocolate boutiques of Paris, over twenty different brands from a dozen countries are available. Handmade pralines and truffles, displayed almost like jewels, come in a rainbow of fillings, from coconut to cherries, mint to almonds.

Legal Cakes ul. Chłodna 2/18, legalcakes.com ‘No need to cheat’ chirps their motto. Proclaiming to be the first of its kind in Poland, Legal Cakes specialize in gorgeous cakes and assorted desserts – the difference being these are all made from completely natural and healthy ingredients. Occupying a pinkish, feminine space just off Chłodna street, their own-made chocolate / fruit ‘batons’ are an essential takeout item.

Limoni Canteri 1952 (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1 & ul. Zwycięzców 49 Appearing as a wooden cabin in an overgrown park (someone, clear it up please), Limoni get noted for Italian gelato that’s too good for words – join the line for tastes like cherry, plum and redcurrant, or go edgy and experimental with flavors such as salmon, tomato or basil.

Między Nami (D4) ul. Bracka 20, miedzynamicafe.com With 18 years of service under their belt you may think of Między Nami as being an antiquated has-been. Not so. Haunted by a mix of media types and local characters, this hip white piece of post-commie Warsaw has an enduring, almost timeless appeal.

edgy art, lending the place a Tate Modern feel, something accentuated by the earnest fashion students who gather through the day.

And there’s the toilet, a futuristic affair with piped music and a mirrored wall.

MOD ul. Oleandrów 8 A place full of everlasting love for the humble donut. Inspired by their travels to New York, owners Kamila and Patrycja have filled a hole in the market by creating a cool spot that’s committed to natural ingredients and the artisan process.

French Bistro Cafe Bakery Nowy Świat 27 Phone: 22 826 44 61 www.petitappetit.com.pl Open Mon - Sun 8:00 - 23:00

Ministerstwo Kawy (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 27, ministerstwokawy.pl Sourcing their coffee from Koppi, an internationally acclaimed Swedish roasting house, the ministry takes no short cuts in their pursuit of excellence. Utilizing Ethiopian, Costa Rican and Brazilian arabicas – some exclusive to Poland – barista Wojciech Rzytki has earned a reputation across Poland for his expert hand. Rave reviews are standard and appropriate in this standout cafe.

BEST WAWA 2014 “Coffee” MiTo (D6) ul. Waryńskiego 28, mito.art.pl Café, gallery, bookstore. Of course, we’ve seen that concept before, just not done in this style. Stark white backgrounds are offset by www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / cafés & wine bars Those glistening technicolors you see are down to the use of fresh fruit and dried flowers! Soft and chewy, enjoy dazzling flavors such as mango or hibiscus.

Niezłe Ziółko Café & Deli (D5) ul. Krucza 17 A shrine to pure and healthy eating, this friendly café doesn’t just brew a great coffee, but bakes its own bread and produces its own yogurt. Sit in the loft to look down on shoppers scurrying to Mokotowska, and on the way out, check out ‘Grandma’s Cupboard’ in the corner: jams, spreads and olive oils are there to buy for home.

Odette ul. Górskiego 6/07, odette.pl Almost holistic in its ambience, the obstacle-free interior utilizes aspects of space and light, causing attention to naturally fall on the long, sleek counter that occupies one end. It’s here that sweet creations glimmer behind glass like precious little gems. Constructed in the adjoining ‘food lab’, these are desserts fit to grace fine dining moments.

Odette Tearoom ul. Twarda 4, odette.pl If you thought those living in Warsaw’s swankiest residential tower – the Cosmopolitan – had it tough, then you’ve got one more reason to envy them: the ground floor Odette Tearoom. Taking its lead from their original dessert stop on ul.

Górskiego, the sister venue peddles glorious cakes and pralines as well as a hand-picked selection of boutique teas served in a fragrant and elegant atmosphere.

OSiR ul. Tamka 40 OSiR’s manifesto declares it a ‘cycle culture’ café, which means incoming guests should brace for all kinds of bike related props in this urban, raw and ready hideout. Beyond the cycling propaganda, there’s much to recommend: rare find beers, street-style hot dogs, and a cool, tranquil crowd that livens up for DJ sets at the weekend from the likes of London Massive and Kool & the Funk.

Państwo Miasto (B1) ul. Andersa 29, panstwomiasto.pl Is there anything better than sitting in a café, book in hand, while autumn sunshine pours through the windows? We go to Państwo to do just that, an echoy, cavernous café with a young, lively crowd that’s keen on scholastic events and political causes. Never does it feel too trendy, or too hipster – it’s a place that’s all

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about atmosphere and friendship.

Prosta Historia (H4) ul. Francuska 24 Informal looking with its clean white finishes and stripped wood floors, it’s an ideal spot for a lazy weekend – few places in Warsaw feel so naturally continental.

Relaks (E9) ul. Puławska 48 Generally travelling by tram for a cup of Joe sounds excessive, but that’s exactly what you’ll be doing on discovering Relaks. Expertly prepared, right down to the foam art, the baristas here use the finest imported machines and work only with fair trade, ‘specialty’ coffee. If you have time, the drip coffees are more than worth the wait.

The interiors supply a retro accent, and are lapped up by a very fashion aware crowd.

Secret Life ul. Słowackiego 15/19 You might already be familiar with Secret Life of Things, a fab design store on the other end of town. Now the same minds have expanded their offer to include this café, a delightful spot that opened in summer. The deckchairs outside may have gone but the hype lingers on: an eclectic design marries a Scandinavian look to an eccentric spirit, while unpasteurized beers, organic teas and a locally sourced menu do the rest.

Sok Bar ul. Tamka 22/24, sokbar.com The star turn belongs to the juices and smoothies, which you’ll find served in a variety of ways: including 50ml shots. Look out for the ‘Hangover’, a combination of orange, gherkin, apple and lemon juice – it really is capable of healing after-party maladies.

Square 5 (C2) Pl. Bankowy 3/5 Square 5 comes as a pleasant surprise amidst the desert that is Pl. Bankowy. Combine their extensive blackboard menu with a countertop heavy with freshly-baked goods from their own oven and you newcomers may be positively overwhelmed. As for their coffee, that’s premium Ionia il Caffe, and it comes in all forms: from the traditional cappuccino to more daring coconut macchiato.

Stor ul. Tamka 33 Small but perfectly formed, Stor has all the clack and clatter of a busy local café. Regional beers, Chemex and

Aeropress coffee and gluten-free snacks and sandwiches provide plenty of reason to pop in and idle about.

Sueño Café & Tapas Bar ul. Oboźna 9/100 The simple décor, inspired by a traveller’s way of living, provides a casual yet lively atmosphere. Surfboards and beach photographs decorate the walls and hammocks hang from the ceilings. The owners, kite surfers and avid travellers, have combined ideas from various different countries – evident not only in the décor but also in the menu.

Tarabuk ul. Browarna 4, tarabuk.pl “I come here to escape Warsaw,” confides one Insider. And yeah, there’s a quality to Tarabuk that allows one to do just that. Heaving with books and raggedy furniture, it’s a place in which to order an eco-tea, maybe a slice of cake, open Chapter 12 and then let hours slip away.

Think Love Juices ul. Francuska 14, thinklove.pl Nutrition nut and supermodel Anna Jagodzińska reveals the secrets of her diet in this white-clad, summery-looking Saska café. As the name indicates, juice plays a massive part in that, with the rotating choice presenting a range of drinks that run from watermelon water all the way up to complex concoctions that ignore any shortcuts. The daily changing lunch deals are superb, but leave you in no doubt just why models are so skinny.

Waff-Love (E4) ul. Senatorska 28, wafflove.pl Upon entering the petit premises the homey waft of sweet crispy batter hits your senses, and while the waffles are less sweet than your traditional Belgian product, after a mountain of toppings you’d be hard pushed to notice. Kiss dietary resolutions goodbye...

WakeCup Café (C1) ul. Franciszkańska 14, wakecupcafe.pl A superb discovery landed in the no-man’s land that straddles New Town and Muranów.

WakeCup don’t believe in taking coffee shortcuts (recommended: raspberry frappe), and have a fiendish obsession with beans from Brazil. Also notable and noteworthy for their fruity cocktails, pastries and energetic café buzz.

Wars i Sawa (E3) ul. Dobra 14/16 Creaking floorboards,

listings / cafés & wine bars unfinished plastering and piles of books set the tone to this ‘culture café’. It’s exactly what you’d expect of Powiśle, and the sort of stop best enjoyed on your own with a pot of tea, a dog-eared novel and your tightest skinny jeans.

Wrzenie Świata ul. Gałczyńskiego 7 Those with journalistic leanings love Wrzenie Świata. It’s definitely more Macbook than Moleskine, but this bookstore/café attracts plenty of readers (and writers) to its book-lined interior.

Buzzing like a cafe should, it packs out for slideshows and seminars.

Znak Zapytania (E9) ul. Puławska 42 Zap is the kind of place you wished you had next door: lively, a little hidden and carefully decorated: bricks walls, contemporary sofas and zippy graphics. Drinks include the botanical tastes of Fentimans, homemade lemonades and artisan beers, and to go with those there’s a daily menu big on seasonal produce.

wine bars Ale Wino! (E5) ul. Mokotowska 48, alewino.pl At first you think you’re walking into a car park. And then, it hits you – a beautiful inner-city sanctum with wooden decking, a slanted sail shielding the sun, and bespoke chairs from the Studio Rygalik. You want to dwell here for a bit longer than planned: and there’s no harm in doing so. One of the Insider’s favorite wine bars, Ale Wino’s food is also top-notch.

BEST WAWA 2014 “Wine Bar” Bristol Wine Bar (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmiescie 42/44 Effortlessly evoking a real sense of history, the design is a triumph with lots of polished brass and nickel, rich wood finishes and marble floors. You feel like you’ve stepped into a film. But talking points aren’t limited to the interiors alone. The wine selection was personally overseen by Robert Mielżyński, possibly the most esteemed wine importer in the country. And the choice is prodigious.

Offering a complete cruise through the wines of the Old Continent and the New World, the collection is precisely presented from behind glass cases that line the walls.

Charlotte (D6) ul. Aleja Wyzwolenia 18 (enter from pl.

Zbawiciela), bistrocharlotte.com It matters not if you’re easily traumatized by the catwalk parade that is Charlotte. Open from seven on weekdays, it’s the place for a morning croissant. And if you’re armed with the latest Mac technology, all the better – join the other posers at the communal table.

Located on Warsaw’s most happening roundabout, there’s no better place to indulge a hangover with a spot of eavesdropping than inside this boulangerie/wine bar.

Hoża (D5) ul. Hoża 25a, hoza.warszawa.pl You’ll probably know Hoża as the home of steak. But what is meat without wine? complementing the Argentine-inspired cooking is a wine list particularly dense with reds.

Jung & Lecker (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 14, jungilecker.pl Some think of this as a neighborhood wine bar – they’re clearly privileged, because if everyone had a Jung & Lecker next door it’d be a kind world indeed. While the courtyard garden is a highlight, even in the sub-zero season there’s reason to swing by. Offering an intimate atmosphere and a strong menu, the finishing touch is provided by way of wines sourced directly from 15 wineries in Germany’s famed Pfalz, Rheinhessen, Rheingau and Mosel regions.

Heritage (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17 The gentrification of Zbawiciela continues with the appearance of Heritage, a place of tap wines, cobbled floors, and simple, well-thought interiors.

With its crates, boxes, cans and tins, Heritage fill a binary role as a deli/wine store for an ascendant new money crowd.

Mielżyński Wine Bar (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, mielzynski.pl Robert Mielżyński, a Canadian-born oenologist, awakened Warsaw’s love affair with the grape when he launched Mielżyński in 2004, and it continues to serve as the accepted benchmark to which all wine bars aspire.

Their cause is amply boosted by a fine selection of bites to accompany the superlative wine offer. Find it in a pared down warehouse that emanates casual city cool.

Mielżyński Wine Bar (G9) ul. Czerska 12, mielzynski.pl After three years in the pipeline Warsaw’s second outpost of Mielżyński is everything you’d expect: a concise menu that’s never too

complex and an exciting wine choice that presents over 500 labels. This vibrant space promises much, not least on account of an inner terrace deck that you know is going to be the talk of this summer.

Portucale (E10) ul. Merliniego 2, portucale.pl The rule here is to keep it simple. Stick to the truly amazing seafood and good house wine, both of which promise a terrific Portuguese experience. $$ VinoTrio ul. Marszałkowska 76, vinotrio.pl Specializing in French, Spanish and Italian wine, VinoTrio touts price points that appeal to all incomes – bottles begin at zł. 30. Despite the small footprint the choice is extensive and the ambiance congenial.

Wejman ul. Zgoda 4, wejmanwinebar.pl The owners cooperated closely with acclaimed importer Guillaume Deliancourt to assemble a stock list dominated by Southern European – especially French – and New World wine.

Try before you buy at this hotly trending wine bar.

Wine Taste By Kamecki ul. Twarda 2/4 Run by Piotr Kamecki, President of the Polish Association of Sommeliers, this beautiful glass-fronted unit functions both as a wine bar and store offering expert advice, cellar design and tastings.

WinKolekcja (E10) ul. Olkuska 7, winkolekcja.pl The selection of New World wines is exceptional, though classicists are also catered for via an extensive choice of Spanish, French and Italian wines. Their highly recommended restaurant provides further reason to linger inside a design that has the routine look of a club class lounge. Żurawina (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34, zurawina.eu. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-18:00.

Lacking in intimacy, this large white room gets criticized for its jarring artwork and staffing blips – in the world of wine it’s important the customer can connect to the staff: here, we felt like we were joining the SS. But both food and wine score highly, and they’ve earned a staunchly loyal following that includes high flying types and Paris Hilton wannabes that carry dogs in their bag. www.warsawinsider.pl

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nightlife NEW & NOTABLE

HERITAGE BIRRERIA ARTIGIANALE (ul. Tamka 9) A new twist on the multi-tap concept, Heritage’s hook is their obsession with Italian and British gypsy breweries. Eyes naturally fall on ten taps dispensing beers from Thornbridge, San Gabriel, Birrificio Milano, etc., and while the drawn-out pouring time can frustrate, most agree that the drinks are worth the wait. Find a well-presented middle-aged crowd squashed inside a tiny little unit that’s often full to capacity.

bars & pubs 6 Cocktails (E5) ul. Mokotowska 57 Taking its lead from the New York fad for covert bars, the 6 adventure begins in front of a heavy arched gate. Ring the bell, await the buzz of approval and then find yourself summoned into rambling apartment that feels sultry and sensual.

Complete with a shadowy smoking lounge and a whirlpool tub in the bathroom, it’s the best secret in Warsaw. To enjoy the bespoke cocktails yourself, message them on Facebook and await your invite…

Bar & Books (D2) ul. Wąski Dunaj 20, barandbooks.pl Seen through a thin autumnal mist, this white townhouse radiates warmth: lights glimmer, piano music tinkles. Wood-paneled and lined with leather-bound tomes, there’s a sense of dignity that’s unique to Warsaw’s cocktail scene. There’s humor, as well, courtesy of portraits of chimps togged out like 18th century gentry. Similar to a members’ only Mayfair bar, find ‘classic with a twist’ cocktails mixed and muddled by the sort of charming bartenders you’d trust serving Bond.

Bar Gemba (D5) ul. Wilcza 50/52 Despite occupying the bottom corner of an office development Gemba isn’t short of character: that is, at least, if you measure character by the number of thrift store armchairs and vintage extras. Furbished with lampshades, luggage and varying odds and ends, it’s the kind of dark, debauched bar that trended amongst artsy Poles in the early 00s. Replacing the oddly downcast Jedna Trzecia, Gemba slots in well amongst the other post-hipster bars in the area.

MACHINARIUM (ul. Smolna 36, machinarium.pub) Professing themselves to be a dive bar, this modest description doesn’t paint the whole picture. The beer offer is unusual and experimental (four taps plus a load of bottles), and there’s also a quirky selection of home-infused nalewki. Drink them inside an interior that engages with its easy mix of dark greens and metallic bits and pieces. There’s football, as well, beamed onto a screen encased inside an ornate picture frame.

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Bar Warszawa (D2) ul. Miodowa 2, barwarszawa.pl Thick with alcoholic fumes and the sound of drunken tantrums, Bar Warszawa excels in its role as a late night dive bar. Split on two levels, upstairs is where most head to flop around a retro lounge interior filled with nostalgic decorations that tempt kleptomaniacs.

The cut price shots and pints do their bit in facilitating slurred conversations with a variety of strangers. Not surprisingly, evenings often extend beyond the advertised closing time of 4 a.m.

listings / nightlife Bar Wieczorny ul. Wiśniowa 46, barwieczorny.pl Preparing for their first summer, it’s going to be one helluva’ place to visit once the weather heats up: that garden is going to get naughty!

The cocktails are serious here, with top quality spirits (Vestal, Baczewski, Woodford Reserve) used with equally big name mixes (Fentimans, Big Tom, etc.). Further, you’ll find it’s the right products in the right hands – the staff really know their game.

Bazar (F1) ul. Jagiellońska 13 There’s Krusovice, Bernard and Staropramen on tap, and the Czech slant is lent added meat by a series of evenings held in cahoots with the Czech Cultural Centre – it’s during boozy disco nights the party spills into a shadowy cellar with light retro hints. On ground level its raw and industrial with asphalt colors and overhead pipes. You wouldn’t expect it, but the margaritas are smashing.

Beirut (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, beirut.com.pl As hip as ever, Beirut has walls dusted with cult album covers, documentary posters and witty graffiti inspired by Banksy. Busy in the day, and absolutely packed at night, order unconventional beers (Noteckie, English ale, Erdinger) from androgynous staff standing behind a sandbag bar decorated with silver hand grenades and a model tank.

Berlin-Warszawa Express (D5) Most Poniatowskiego (corner of Kruczkowskiego and al. 3 Maja) Set up a flight of stairs, a concrete footbridge at the top links the two bars either side: Berlin and Warszawa. It’s a Matrix moment, the red pill or the blue? Berlin’s the better, with industrial cage lights, and salvaged DDR memorabilia. Surveying the scene, it’s all wobbly tables, sticky surfaces and tight little alcoves fitted into impossible spaces. A great dive bar, the friendly nature of Berlin gets even friendlier after a few craft brews.

Bierhalle (A1) Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), ul. Nowy Świat 64, ul. Marszałkowska 55/73, bierhalle.pl Having tapped their first beer six or seven years back, their microbrewery have morphed into a national phenomenon with outposts across the country. All three Warsaw locations have a cut/paste Bavarian atmosphere, hefty wooden fittings and waitresses dressed like mountain frauleins.

Bollywood Lounge (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, bollywoodlounge.pl Now on Nowy Świat, the team have used the opportunity to upgrade their offer: gone is that low-rent feel of old, replaced in favor of a more classy look and a slicker crowd.

What has remained constant is the energy.

Ace cocktails (recommended: Jim Ban Chili), tottering talent and a range of sheesha pipes make it a weekend must, though the big news is the completion of their downstairs club: check it out for the bright, banging beats of the Bollywood sound.

British Bulldog (D4) ul. Aleje Jerozolimskie 42, bbpub.pl In terms of aesthetic it’s the most accurate replica of an English pub you’ll find. And they get a further nod for a brilliant covered terrace that’s great in all weather. Not that you’ll find many British expats in here, they’ve been boycotting the place ever since the dismissal of the original British manager. Judging by the poor standards of beer and food, you might want to follow their example. What could have become an expat legend is, in essence, a big wet plop of disappointment.

Browarmia (D3) ul. Królewska 1, tel. 22 826 5455, browarmia.pl A brewery first and foremost – and an average one at that – full of pipes, valves and mysterious gauges. They still do their own brewing, but conscious of the shift towards artisan beer they’ve now also added around twenty taps to their offer. The choice is a little more pedestrian than the competition, but is nonetheless a pleasant sign of changing times. That it looks, feels and smells like a brewery makes it all the more welcome.

Bubbles (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 512 540 913, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-18:00, bubbles.com.pl Despite sounding like a 90s small town nightclub, Bubbles is in fact a worthy place of note: a small, warm venue with a slow food menu and a design that incorporates lots of upturned crates and dusty bottles. Champagne is the main draw here, with many labels that are exclusive to Poland. Some come with terrifying prices, but on the whole the price points are widely accessible: wine from zł. 10 and a flute of champers from zł. 29.

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listings / nightlife nincompoop waiter, we’ve done exactly the opposite… and become regulars! Views of scantily-clad shoppers wiggling down the street are one attraction, though the biggest is the Czech ‘tank’ pouring system. Order the mliko, a beer that’s all creamy froth that you can sink down in seconds.

venture. Twelve taps and umpteen bottles comprise the offer, with a range of domestic and international players represented: among them Beavertown, Hoppin’ Frog and Fourpure. Less nerdy than their original, expect the latest Chmielarnia to hoover up bearded custom from nearby pl. Zbawiciela.

Chmielarnia (B5) ul. Twarda 42 (basement level), chmielarnia. waw.pl A subterranean multi-tap found in the depths of the fishing institute. Artisan beers rule the roost here (there’s 15 taps and stacks more beer in the fridge), a point underlined by a glass coffin of mainstream macro lager.

While the bar gets loud and rackety, sweaty and sticky, that’s balanced out by a rotating beer offer that’s moderately priced plus a friendly, earnest audience that’s all beer geeks and know-it-alls.

Ciechan Na Foksal ul. Foksal 18, ciechan.com.pl/foksal If you’re happy to overlook the unsavory politics of the brewery’s owner, then you’ll doubtless enjoy the flagship bar of the BRJ brewing company. Find 16 taps showcasing their portfolio of regional beers, among them Ciechan, Lwówek and Bojan. The food is largely a stodge-fest, something that sits ill at ease with the smart, brick interiors. Maybe something more rugged would have worked better, but hey, who cares, it’s about the beer, right?

Chmielarnia Marszałkowska (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16, chmielarnia.waw.pl With the tap war at its height, Chmielarnia hope to raise the stakes with their latest

Column Bar ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44 (Hotel Bristol) Just the look of Column Bar

sweeps you off your feet; there’s something breathlessly classy about it, like you’ve just entered Gatsby’s ballroom. You want to order a pyramid of champagne and dance on their piano. Behave, and order a cocktail instead.

For a taste of the classics, the Column Bar is peerless. In summer, enjoy your drinks out in the beautifully tranquil courtyard.

Cuda Na Kiju (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, cudanakiju.pl Where it all began. Summer catches Warsaw’s original tap bar at its best, with the courtyard of the former Communist Party HQ now home to an entirely different kind of party: on occasions find food trucks and film screenings, and all other times just a massive crowd getting sloshed on 15 types of tap beer.

Cześć (C3) ul. Grzybowska 2 (through the side passage), czesc.waw.pl It started as a café, but now Cześć is better known as being at the forefront of the new generation of ‘quali-tap’

Tickets on sale

DJ Amaletto (house) DJ Pit (disco) Start: 21.00

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czackiego 3/5

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listings / nightlife bars – small little places with six or so new wave beers on tap. The two owners, Piot and Kuba, take their beer seriously, so do expect plenty of new finds as well as traditional favorites from stalwarts like the Artezan and Pinta breweries. The laidback, neighborhood atmosphere is making it increasingly popular with a tight-knit circle of ex-pat drinkers.

Czeska Baszta (E4) Tower 22A, Most Poniatowskiego, czeskabaszta.pl Set in one of those towers that props up Most Poniatowskiego, its surroundings look grim – at night even scary.

Bathed in a yellowish murk, it’s actually warm and welcoming, and the reason for that soon becomes apparent: everyone is drunk!

There’s 80 Czech beers to pick from, and they do more than enough to distract from the rattle and rumble of overhead trams and a swamp monster toilet.

Dom Wódki (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl The vodka bar concept gets a new lease of life inside this glam and gleaming bar / restaurant. Find 250 artisan brands and a bar staff with the know how to improve the drinks further still: the cocktails are unmissable. It’s places like this that make you fall in love with Warsaw.

Elephant Belgian Pub (C1) ul. Freta 19 Signposted by a jolly, dancing elephant, this Belgian pub presents its cause the moment you enter – there’s twenty or so taps laid right out in front, and to the left a fridge that’s expected to top out to cover 200 beers. The design is basic – brickwork, beer kegs and varying ephemera of the brewing trade – but it doesn’t need that much more: it’s about the beer, after all.

Gorączka Złota (D5) ul. Wilcza 29, goraczka-zlota.com.pl Founded in 1996, Złota’s longevity is to be admired, even if the interiors aren’t. Small, dark and a little pungent, the interiors are rendered out of little more than varnished wood and hundreds of beer coasters. But that’s the clue! The secret of their success is down to the beer. Stocking a range of regional and craft beer (Ale Browar, Pinta, Kormoran, AltenMunster, Olbracht, etc.), this unfashionable bar has an underlying honesty that makes it a success.

Hard Rock Cafe (C5) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), hardrockcafe.pl Full Throttle cocktails, lively staff and a classic

rock soundtrack: the energy of HRC is hard to find fault with. And on the rare occasion there is a lull in the night, use the opportunity to sniff around memorabilia that includes a black leather number once worn by Madonna.

Heritage Birreria Artigianale ul. Tamka 9 A new twist on the multi-tap concept: ten taps here, with the hook being the slant towards Italian (and British) breweries. Occupying a small corner unit, the atmosphere is such you don’t want to leave: big windows, nice staff, cool design – this lot have it licked.

Where friends meet

friends for good

times and more.

Hoppiness (D4) ul. Chmielna 27/31 You’re in good hands here – opened under the patronage of the Pracownia brewery, this small-scale operation goes beyond merely offering the beers of its sponsor. There’s 12 taps in all, a decent fridge to geek over, an ace burger and beer-based ice cream – hooray!

Hopsters (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 45 (enter from ul. Nowolipki) You get the idea they could have done a bit more with the interior, though the tendency is to overlook this. After all, any bar that goes to the trouble of fitting twenty taps deserves a bit of leeway. And fine things they are, these taps of theirs. There’s usually a couple of foreign guests on the day-to-day menu (Mikeller, Lindemans), but the main draw is undoubtedly from domestic brew houses like AleBrowar and Artezan, not to mention rising stars such as Doctor Brew and Podgórz.

Irish Pub (C2) ul. Miodowa 3, irishpubmiodowa.pl Affecting a look that only an Irish pub can escape with – strange smells and chipped wood – this boozer is perhaps more noted for its live music and camaraderie than for anything else. There’s events practically every night, ranging from local rock acts to cool blues. If you failed the X Factor audition then do the next best thing and visit for karaoke night.

Jabeerwocky (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 12, taproom.pl Prices go from affordable all the way up to, ‘bloody hell, how much!?’ Find a staggering choice on pump, tap and in the fridges, with the international selection accrued by true aficionados: the beers are brill, and so are some of the beards. We’re still awaiting the promised garden, so in the meantime enjoy

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listings / nightlife an appealingly coarse interior that features original tilework over 100 years old. And look out for Jabberwocky Jr., their next door whisky bar – full review of that next issue!

Kameralna (E4) ul. Foksal 11 With a militia truck outside, and interiors that feature cutlery by Społem and 70s newspapers on the walls, you’d be right to think we’ve got another venue that celebrates the past. Looking vast and comfortingly cluttered, Kameralna is both a restaurant and a nightspot – brewing their own beer, the house lagers are fine.

Karmnik (D2) ul. Piwna 4A, karmnik.waw.pl Close to sinking into dive bar territory, Karmnik have rejigged their interior, added a list of flashy cocktails and recruited a few DJs to give the place a pre-club spirit. As revamps go it’s been entirely successful, with the only sticking point (sometimes literally), being the unisex toilet. The origami birds hanging from the ceiling, btw, are a reference to the post-war period when an old lady who fed the pigeons took-up brief residence in the ruins of where you now drink.

Karowa 31 (D3) ul. Karowa 31, warsawbarproject.com Warsaw’s original speakeasy grants access via a retractable door disguised as a VHS collection – how cool is that!? Maze-like in layout, the retro-looking Karowa 31 unravels to reveal a series of chambers concealed in shadow, though for all that the cocktails are the real draw: masterful creations composed

by Bram, the former manager of the London Cocktail Club.

Kita Koguta (E5) ul. Krucza 6/14 Free from the pompous prattery of Bar Max down the road, there are times in Kita Koguta where sitting at bar level is like watching Dexter’s Laboratory: the staff aren’t afraid to get imaginative, and that includes serving cocktails in smoking coconut husks. Not all the experiments go as planned, but that’s part of the thrill – for a failsafe, order the Viterbo Breakfast: it looks like something that came out of a drainpipe, but it’s delicious!

Kraken Rum Bar (D5) ul. Poznańska 12 Named after one of the ocean’s most feared mythical creatures (the scary squid from Pirates of the Caribbean), the wood-clad Kraken features a wall of

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cymbals, heavy furniture and some interesting photography. While there’s some decent bottles of rum, there’s perhaps not enough to justify calling it a rum bar. The house beer rocks though.

Kufle i Kapsle (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 25, kufleikapsle.pl All levels of drinkers are catered for in this raw-looking space, from those ready to pay nosebleed prices for beers with spaceships on the label, right the way down to novices taking their first baby steps in the world of craft booze. Interiors are balanced with the pre-war heritage of the place, and are thick with noise, clamor and the spell of spillage.

Unisex toilets, meaning there’s usually one idiotka putting a spanner in the queue code.

Kwadrat (D5) ul. Poznańska 7, tel. 790 010 088, open Mon-Fri 16:00-last guest; Sat 18:00-last guest, www.kwadrat.waw.pl Nights get blurry in Kwadrat, one of the first bars in town to spread the gospel of regional and new wave beer. Enjoy it alongside an amiable, late 20s crowd.

Lazy Dog (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, lazy-dog.pl After many false starts Krucza is finally waking up and realizing its potential. Lazy Dog is a manifestation of that, an upmarket restaurant / cocktail bar with a pseudo industrial design a train station departure board customized to announce their cocktails – next stop: drunkenness. Inspired by ‘classic New York’, the cocktails are a masterclass in mixing.

Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri 11:0002:00; Sat 12:00-02:00, Sun 12:00-23:00, www.legendsbar.pl Legends is slowly achieving legendary status amongst the expats and Anglophiles. Their cause is helped by touches like a segregated smoking room, proper darts board, Sky Sports and a traditional menu that’s as authentically English as the Downing Street cat. Most of all though, the success is down to the sense of community fostered over long quiz nights, shouty karaoke competitions and Presiding over it all is Graham, a seasoned expat and Everton nut.

Małe Piwo (D7) ul. Oleandrów 4 Hands up who loves good beer? Thought so. Małe Piwo have been a

sensation since opening, preempting the craft beer trend and in the process attracting huge crowds of every sub-section of the hipster community. The choice of bottles is immense, and enjoyed in an edgy, dive bar background that’s snugger than a mouse’s waistcoat.

Miłość Kredytowa 9 ul. Kredytowa 9 Firstly, there’s the bar. It’s stunning: concrete slabs, a vertical wall of greenery and a DJ platform that doubles as a kitchen on weekends. The upstairs mezzanine is the best spot for voyeurs, and it’s here that a series of rooms unravel revealing a bookstore, deli and a lumbersexual barber shop. It is ultimately the bar that is the center force though, and it’s here you’ll find one-of-a-kind bottled cocktails that use natural ingredients, not to mention the full offer from Perła.

Multitap Bla Bla ul. Nowogrodzka 22, blabla.com.pl Looking murky and in need of a good scrub (and that’s just the glasses), you feel Bla Bla is simply here to suck up overspill from its more high-profile neighbors. Ten taps here, usually carrying beers you know inside out. But you will find a seat and there’s a kebab shop next door.

Na Lato (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44 Once derided as a hipster haunt, the twits have moved on, replaced instead by an increasingly on-trend crowd of rich young things. The cocktails are without doubt up there with the best in Wa-wa and the basement club area has the added boon of a glassed-in smoking room.

Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’ (D4) Enter from ul. Nowy Świat 26 Approximately twenty bars occupy a series of low-budget prefabricated cabins, presenting possibly the highest density of bars in the capital: in summer, it feels like one big street party.

Adding to the gentle sense of confusion comes the realization that so many bars look the same – accessed through clattery, barred doors, visitors walk into what can only be described as murk. Klaps, with its dildo beer taps and phallic walls, is probably the most well-known of the lot.

Oleandrów 3 (D6) ul. Oleandrów 3 Exploring themes of decadence and fallen splendor, this new opening cements Oleandrów’s status as one

listings / nightlife of Warsaw’s rising streets. Looking dark and disheveled, this busy nightspot is already earning a name for libertine shenanigans.

The blackboard menu touts an unlikely combo of ‘hot dogs and champagne’ – watch others follow suit.

Panorama Bar and Lounge (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), panoramabar.pl An elegant bar that would easily pass for the VIP room of a well-to-do club. A floor 40 location makes it great for a date: the sunset views are dazzling.

Paradox (B1) ul. Anielewicza 2, paradox-cafe.pl Billing themselves as a ‘sci-fi / gamers / role play asylum’ this is a cradle of geeks, nerds and people who collect serial killer memorabilia.

Decorated with plastic black crows, a map of Mordor and figurines of goblins, watch as oddly attired suspects engross themselves in ‘for hire’ games with names like Hobbit and Bewoulf.

Patera (C4) ul. Świętokrzyska 36, patera.com.plPatera fill a binary role: first as an Asian eatery, and second as a cocktail bar. And my, what cocktails. Offering several classics, and a few modern creations, the Ginger Peach Collins became our cocktail of choice during summer 2014. The reopening of Świętokrzyska should

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lead a few more people through the door – they’ll like what they see.

Pies Czy Suka (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8A, piesczysuka.com Monochrome gun metal grey colors are offset by a fashionable crowd attired in red shoes, pink trousers and blue headphones. This clean, concrete space is speckled with plaster moldings of reindeer heads, and excels on the cocktail front. Order from an iPad menu, before settling back for cocktails made using mad scientist, molecular techniques that involve foam, vapor, beakers and other things you’d usually find in Professor Yaffle’s lab.

Piw Paw (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34 (enter from ul.

Parkingowa), open 24 hrs We don’t like: the sweaty toilet, strange smells and queue scrum. We do like: the 24hr opening hours, humongous fridge and 50+ taps. Seen in the light it’s a little depressing, so visit at night when Parkingowa takes on the look of an end-of-term street party.

Piw Paw na Foksal (E4) ul. Foksal 16, piwpaw.pl If the original Piw Paw was marketed as a ‘hyper tap’ then what’s their sister on Foksal? There’s 97 taps (!!) though one gets the sense its more about numbers than quality – we’ve seen Beck’s, for Pete’s sake. Getting service can be a nightmare, and while there’s a smoking room, it’s got the warmth and ambience of a night down the police station.

Plac Barcelona (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 18 Those who think this area’s star has waned need look no further than Plac Barcelona, a pristine bar with a star studded clientele. The interiors feature stark white colors and an interesting multi-level seating arrangement. Most, however, prefer to give themselves maximum exposure and do both their sipping and sitting outdoors.

Plan B (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), planb.pl Plan B is the very essence of dive Warsaw.

Weekends pass by in a raucous blur, with the party spilling out under the colonnades outside – it helps to look like a DJ, but in truth everyone is welcome.

Pociąg do Piwa ul. Dereniowa 2 Jumping onto the multi-tap bandwagon is Pociąg do Piwa, a smallish locale whose one design element is a steam engine traced into the wall using bottle tops.

There’s 12 taps in all, and they primarily distribute cult Polish beers from the likes of Pinta and AleBrowar.

Polonez (D5) ul. Poznańska 24 Sparse milk bar chic is set against plenty of oddities (black and white Cybulski films, a set of antlers, hordes of junk), but the cool aesthetics only tell a part of the story. This is a celebration of Poland, both old and new, with drinks that include obscure nalewki, craft local beers, bio drinks and regional tipples. The masterstroke

listings / nightlife comes in making this all feel international, contemporary and creative.

Same Krafty (D1) ul. Nowomiejska 10 Set across two small, rugged rooms, Same Krafty gets populated by an organic combination of tourists, couples and beer enthusiasts. There’s ten taps from which to choose, and a fridge with several interesting international beers. The Old Town doesn’t have much to shout about when it comes to nightlife, so Same Krafty’s debut is more than welcome.

Secado (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 66 Most part restaurant, bit part bar, there’s a flexibility here that has turned it into one of those places where people meet, eat and generally hangout – not always in that order. And as for the drinks, they’re really very good. Using their own mixes, Secado present a succinct list of must-try cocktails.

Słoik (D4) ul. Złota 11, restauracjasloik.pl Słoik looks bright, loud and vibrant, so it’s no surprise to learn their cocktail maestros specialize in maverick creations. A source of particular pride are drinks that celebrate Poland: we’re talking about vodkas infused with juniper and vanilla, then mixed with marmalades and other exotica like pickled cucumber juice. The tastes are unique and leave you bandy-legged and shouting for more.

Spiskowcy Rozkoszy (D5) ul. Żurawia 47/49, spiskowcy.pl The ground floor is an intimate space with lots of yet-to-be-famous beers and junky, antique furniture that reminds of the Boho hangouts in Kraków. But what was a packed, little bar is now a packed, big bar with the opening of the basement: find a labyrinth of rooms and psychedelic toilets with pulsating lights – you soon wonder who spiked your drink. And oh, the drinks. Expect IPA and APA beers served from the six taps.

Syreni Śpiew ul. Szara 10A, syrenispiew.pl Set in a beautifully restored piece of PRL concrete, Syreni Śpiew’s lasting popularity has proved the doubters wrong. This is not some one season wonder, rather a place that has gone from strength to strength. Primarily known for its hefty whisky offer (which is divided into regions of Scotland, Ireland and Japan), the cocktails also stand up to scrutiny on account

of their consistent quality. A genuinely unique drinking experience with cool elements of retro chic.

Varso Vie Pl. Konstytcuji 2, varso-vie.pl A cool bar / restaurant decorated with art that’s both sensual and suggestive. Behind the bar, homemade syrups, seasonal ingredients and high caliber alcohol are all present, but so to the most important component: the staff who can handle them. Try the Polish Colada: involving Bols Natural Yogurt, Pawlina vodka, pineapple, lemon and sprinkling of chocolate, it’s a superb drink that does a grand job of rehabilitating a largely derided classic.

The View ul. Twarda 18, theview.pl Sat on top of the Spektrum Tower this bar/club looks set to reinvent the whole concept of going out in Warsaw. A truly world-class venture, the open-air deck on the 32nd floor offers striking views of the cityscape, first rate cocktails and an international rotation of DJs. The look is sleek and stylish.

W Oparach Absurdu ul. Ząbkowska 6 Hidden under Persian rugs, velvety drapes and reclaimed antiques, some still refer to it as The Spider Bar in reference to the giant tarantula that once hung from the wall. There’s an air of louche 60s living here, and it gets weirder when bands with names like the Bum Bum Orchestra enter to play trumpets amongst vodka-tipping guests.

Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, www.warsawtortillafactory. pl Warsaw’s premier sports pub: and it’s not just the extent of their sporting offer that elevates WTF, but the atmosphere. Whether it’s international rugby, or Bristol City on a Tuesday night, the tension, camaraderie and horseplay are unmatched. On the occasions when there is no sport, swing by for live bands and a lively atmosphere fueled by a heady mix of ex-pats, international students, and natives of all ages.

Weles (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 11 A swing of the door

takes visitors plunging down a blacked-out stairwell and into a basement that emerges from the darkness like a decadent Tsarist relic: glinting chandeliers glimmer over deep leather sofas, their subtle light casting a glow over an immaculate clientele. Befitting the venue, the artisanal cocktails are a work of elaborate craftsmanship, and incorporate everything from elite liquors to strips of bacon and flower petals.

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listings / nightlife embellishes the venue’s ascetic PRL style with licks of art deco: it’s an unlikely marriage that manages to work. But with even the sun sweating this summer, do your pecking, picking, sipping and supping on an outdoor terrace set-up that encourages mingling and interaction.

clubs Enklawa (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, enklawa.com Forget internet dating, Enklawa is the best pick-up joint around – a classic kitschy, glitzy disco, it draws in huge crowds with a simple lineup of pop and dance hits. Still regarded as the best Wednesday night in Warsaw, it’s the place for singletons looking for a one night confidence boost.

Klubo ul. Czackiego 3/5, klubo.pl You can almost feel this club’s legendary status as you descend down into their basement. Dark, vibrant and decorated in a way that evokes the glory years of the 80s and 90s, tip down their house cocktails inside and writhe alongside other clubbers in a series of deep reddish rooms banging out house, disco and R&B sounds. Check their web for deals, offers and opening times.

Lab The Live Act Bar (D4) ul. Bracka 25, barlab.pl There’s an ad hoc nature to Lab, and that begins with the decor:

geometric floor patterns, a breezeblock bar and retro-style tables and chairs. This individualistic temperament is further enhanced by various events that range from yard sales to concerts. But it’s as a club that Lab has gained attention, with its management pursuing a music policy that renounces the mainstream in favor of deep house and electronica.

Luztro (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, luztro.pl Feeling naughty?

Luztro enjoys a reputation for libertine behavior and illicit pharmaceuticals. Dark, grim and grotty, this after party stalwart gets going at about 4 a.m. on weekends, when troglodyte club creatures emerge zombie-like to dance way past sunrise. Jaw grinding, rib rattling electro has never felt better.

Platinium (D3) ul. Fredry 6, platiniumclub.pl The place if you’re rich or beautiful – but preferably both.

Large and spectacular you’ll need to be dressed to the nines to reap the rewards that lie inside: featuring the most eye candy per sq/m in Europe, you might not find Mr/Mrs Right, but you will find Mr/Mrs Right for Now. Sen Pszczoły ul. Grochowska 301/305, senpszczoly.pl Famous, infamous or a bit of both? Moving from their temporary digs in the Koneser Factory, the new-look Sen Pszczoły is every bit as murky as the previous: amid a heavy industrial background, find partygoers enjoy-

ing a mixed bag of events that range from didgeridoo performances to full-on techno that makes fillings pop out.

gentleman’s clubs Playhouse (B3) Al. Solidarności 82A, playhouse.pl Not here gorilla gangsters on the door or pushy girls doing the rounds (“buy me drinky drinky”).

Instead, Playhouse models itself on the top class mega clubs such as Spearmint Rhino, and the result is a subterranean space removed from the sleaze and murk usually associated with the industry. But you want to know what the girls are like, yeah?

Sofia (D6) ul. Polna 13, klubsofia.pl A.k.a The Bulgarian Embassy, Sofia have rebuilt the reputation earned during their city center heyday in the naughty noughties. Sure, the atmosphere is more restrained than in their former location, but the dancers aren’t.

live music Chwila (B3) ul. Ogrodowa 31/35 Entered under a red, cabaret-style awning, Chwila is a reject factory space turned good. Furry cushions, patchwork quilts and student art vie for attention alongside iron girders and industrial leftovers inside what is becoming known as one of the top alternative music venues this side of the river.

Klub 12/14 ul. Piwna 12/14, 12on14club.com Sometimes you’ve got to ask, just where are all the jazz bars? Well, at last the void has been filled with the entry of Klub 12/14 on the market. A schedule of daily evening concerts, a decent uncomplicated menu and a smart white design make it a welcome addition.

Pardon To Tu (C4) Pl. Grzybowski 12/16, pardontotu.pl Decorated in voluptuous brothel colors, the design involves mismatched seats, tilted lampshades and a relaxed arthouse look popular with creatives and other fringe dwellers. The live talent ranges from moody quartets to jazzy chanteuses, while a perfect marriage of late hours and great bottled beers helps along the enthusiastic crowd of latter day beatniks.

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shopping accessories Agent Provocateur ul. Mokotowska 59, tel. 22 273 6162, www. agentprovocateur.com The boutique is stocked full of the latest collection – gorgeous lacy bras with scrumptious attention to detail, matching panties, teddies and a bunch of strappy get-ups you can only get away with if you’re very fit or very confident, but preferably both. And if that’s not enough, they’ve got sexy stockings, silk robes, perfume, satin gloves, a blindfold and nipple tassels…

Bagatt ul. Mokotowska 28, Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), www.bagatt.pl A savvy alternative to the upmarket brands up the street on Pl. Trzech Krzyży.

FIVE OF THE BEST: BOOKSHOPS BOOKS FOR COOKS (ul. Inżynerski 1, booksforcooks.pl) Just guess what the specialty here is? And if the Praga address deters you, then click to their web to find a hefty offer of original language cook books, memoirs, restaurant guides and assorted foodie must-haves.

CZUŁY BARBARZYŃCA (ul. Dobra 31, czuly.pl) A cafe / bookstore hybrid that you’d imagine doing well in Paris. The Polish-language choice is broad, and whilst the number of English-language could be extended everyone finds the atmosphere irresistible.

FUNDACJA BĘC ZMIANA (ul. Mokotowska 65/7, beczmiana.pl) A small curiosity shop selling trendy trinkets and a fair amount of art and architecture books with an accent on modern Warsaw.

MODA NA CZYTANIE (ul. Bracka 25) Some brilliant Warsaw-focused coffee table books, as well a half-decent collection of English-language books that range from classics to contemporary fiction.

SUPER SALON (pictured) (ul. Chmielna 10, supersalon.org) Filled with beautiful titles, Super Salon dedicates itself to books, magazines and albums covering weighty subject matter such as photography, design, erotica and architecture.

Represented publishers include Phaidon, Gestalten and Steidl.

Bath & Body Works ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy) & ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów)The famed American brand signals its arrival to Europe with the launch of their Warsaw branch. Now fans of the brand can experience first-hand luxurious fragrant body care, hand and home collections.

Customers can discover sophisticated fragrances, test shower gels and soaps at the sink area, and try everything from body lotions to home fragrances.

Batycki (various locations), batycki.pl Bozena Batycka’s sleek, simple handbag designs are made with italian leather. While her products are not inexpensive by Polish standards, their uniqueness combined with substantial durability make them a perenial favorite.

BeautyLab Polska beautylabpolska.pl Rated as one of the biggest names in global cosmetics, the range of treatments run from anti-ageing to daily body care and essential skin care.

Calvin Klein ul. Mysia 3 Poland’s first Calvin Klein concept store is dedicated to watches, jewelry and assorted beautiful shiny things that everyone covets.

Chiara (Saska Kępa) Promenada Shopping Centre, ul. Ostrobramska 75C, chiara-online.pl You’d never www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / shopping expect it but this chic little shop stocks the best shoes and bags in the city – stock up on the latest collections from Michael Kors, Celine, Stuart Weitzman, Ralph Lauren and Mulberry.

Church’s Pl. Trzech Krzyży 10/14 A classic Englishman’s establishment stocking the world’s best dress shoes. di Trevi Boutique Piękna 11A, ditrevi.pl Aimed at both him and her, Di Trevi present the freshest Italian footwear releases from prestigious brands such as Ballin and Loriblu. Handbags are also available inside a chic interior that exudes luxury.

Frey Wille ul. Nowy Świat 37, frey-wille.com You may not find a diamond ring here, but this is certainly the place to go to if you’re looking for jewellery that will spice up your outfits with a brilliant splash of colour. These Vienna-based jewellers work almost entirely in enamels made by mixing finely-ground glass and minerals.

Glamourous Pochette tel. (+48) 798 089 959, Glamorous-Pochette. com Leave an unforgettable impression with stylish pocket squares made from the finest, hand selected Moroccan raw silk. So they say: ‘each one tells a story, or carries strong ties to a particular place or moment – when you wear one of our pocket squares, you take these stories and transform them into your own’.

Glamstore ul. Narbutta 83 (entry from ul. Łowicka) Widely hailed by Poland’s fashion glossies, this store sells modern furnishings with all the trimmings and colours you could ask for. They also stock kitchen and bathroom accessories, as well as touting their own jewelery line.

HOS&me ul. Mokotowska 63, mokotowska63.com Luxury jewelry and the best in the biz. In stock: high end treasures from Nialaya, Lene Bjerre Design, Ti Sento, Christensen and Dryberg/Kern.

Impossible Project ul. Mysia 3 The Polaroid comes back to life in Impossible Project, a place with refurbished

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original cameras as well as new film formula.

Kate Roxs ul. Radna 10, kateroxs.eu Beyond the slightly creepy / fetishistic window display (leather Roman body armor), this store has earned a reputation for high quality, natural leather bags. “Our inspiration,” says Kate, “comes from women, not trends.”

Le Galerie Parisienne ul. Wilcza 8, facebook. com/lagalerieparisienne The kind of store Warsaw needs more of: sourced by a French / Polish couple, the imaginative items include beautiful jewelry and hand-painted brooches, all the way to antique design pieces to individualize your home.

Lilou ul. Mokotowska 63, lilou.pl Modular jewelry made simple, and a must for all Warsaw fashionista.

Minty Dot ul. Bracka 5, mintydot.pl Top quality Polish jewelry composed using gold, silver and natural stone. Contemporary in style, these are accessories that radiate class and craftsmanship while at the same time exuding a subtle sense of timeless romance.

Mo61 ul. Mokotowska 61, tel. 601 652 593, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, mo61.pl Billed as a ‘perfume laboratory’, Mo61 is the only place in Poland that allows customers to create their own scents. Under the expert guidance of staff trained by Zygmunt Marczewski (“the best nose in Poland”!), visitors compose their own perfumes inside a beautifully renovated pre-war space.

Old Silos ul. Hoża 35, oldsilos.pl Relive the glory years of the 80s British ‘football casual’ in Old Silos, a sneaker store specializing in retro classics and Adidas originals.

Omega Pl. Trzech Krzyży 16A, omegawatches. com Newly opened, Poland’s first Omega boutique showcases watches, leather accessories and jewelry across 200 sq/m of luxury real estate.

Pingle Optyk ul. Hoża 40 A collection of hand-selected eyewear that is serious in terms of quality control, but entirely whimsical when it comes to design. Yes, you’ve got your ubiquitous Ray Ban classics, but you’ve also got the electric blue version. You’ve got your Chanel and YSL classics, then there are the leather-trimmed frames from Paul Smith and many more funky models straight from Paris.

Pracownia Szczotek ul. Poznańska 26, khaja.pl Opened in 1952, this bespoke brush store has been passed down from grandfather to father and then onto son. On offer: everything from paintbrushes to moustache combs to hairbrushes.

And the owner is a character as well: “I don’t have time for Facebook,” he says, “it would get in the way of my tango lessons!”

Pracownia Czasu ul. Wiejska 14, pracowniaczasu.pl A true market leader with brands including Paul Picot, Graham London, Vulcain, Cuervo y Sobrinos, Ulysse Nardin and so many more.

Puppy Star ul. Niecała 7, puppystar.pl You know those glam girls who carry yappy dogs in their handbag? This is premiumpriced salon and boutique is where they shop for their pooch.

Schubert ul. Piwna 12/14, ul. Piwna 26, ul. Świętojańska 11, worldofamber.pl Rings, bracelets, necklaces and watches produced using the finest Baltic amber. Or for a unique gift, how about an amber chess set or an amber cigarette lighter?

Stara Mydlarnia Various locations inc. ul. Chmielna 4, mydla. pl Handmade cosmetics such as fragrant soaps, bath gels and salts, body butters, massage oils and aromatic candles. Ideal for home pampering.

Stetson ul. Mysia 3, stetson.pl Head to the second floor to find this purveyor of quality Americana. Hats and caps in abundance, not to mention rereleased classics to coincide with the firm’s 150th birthday.

Victoria’s Secret Beauty & Accessories ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy) & ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów) An assortment of

listings / shopping Victoria’s Secret Beauty products including fun and flirty fragrances, such as Bombshell, as well as the scented VS Fantasies body care range. For that glam girl-on-the go, expect to find a wide range of Victoria’s Secret branded bags, luggage, passport covers and small leather goods to cosmetic bags, bangles and key fobs.

antiques Antykwariat na Tamce ul. Tamka 45B, antykwariat-tamka.pl How can you not love this second hand store? Presided over by a super-friendly hippy-looking dude, consider this a mine of rare vinyl (Beatles, Hendrix, Sabbath, weird Polish PRL stuff), as well as 15,000 comics and books (inc. plenty of sci-fi and historical interest).

Kolo ul. Obozowa 99, gieldastaroci.waw.pl What looks like a soggy tent city transforms each Sunday morning into a hopelessly addictive flea market offering wartime militaria, religious icons, chinaware, furniture from unverified periods of history, and even the occasional suit of armor. Half-junkyard, half treasure trove, it’s an experience in itself.

Kwadryga ul. Wilcza 29, kwadryga.com Entered through a courtyard, it’s a magnet for bibliophiles, and groans with antique books, faded photographs, yellowing maps and dog-eared magazines – the atmosphere is timeless. The PRL-era lifestyle magazines are an amazing insight into the past.

Lapidarium ul. Nowomiejska 15/17, lapidarium.pl Cavalry swords, pre-war Judaica, Orthodox icons, books, scrolls, helmets, cameras, chess sets, jewelry… Lapidarium is possibly one of the most famed antique stores in the capital, and presents the opportunity for endless rummaging.

Prima Porta Antiquities ul. Moktowska 71, primaporta-antiquities. com At the top end of the scale the Germanrun Prima Porta specialize in pieces from ancient Rome, Greece, Egypt, Mesopotamia and Asia. Formidable pieces from tiny little Egyptian clay hippos from the 12th Dynasty, all the way to one and half meter statues of Buddha from the Third Myanmar Kingdom.

fashion American Eagle Outfitters Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (C. H. Arkadia) & ul.

Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów) American Eagle brings you high-quality, on-trend clothing and accessories inspired by a denim heritage that truly expresses individual style.

Ania Kuczyńska ul. Mokotowska 61 Ania Kuczyńska is becoming well known for her highly fashionable, minimalist clothing designs. The store also carries adorable baby clothes and various accessories.

Balthazar ul. B. Prusa 2, balthazar.pl Enjoying a close cooperation with Sartoria Partenopea, Balthazar offer bespoke, made-to-measure tailored after a meeting with the house ‘style expert’.

Image consultancy also available.

Bombay Shirts ul. Hoża 58/60, bombayshirts.com Custommade shirts for both men and women created from a choice of over 150 fabrics: among them the finest Egyptian cotton, two-ply cottons and pure linens. They promise shirts that are ‘modern and fast-paced but buttressed with old world charm’.

Chrum ul. Dobra 53, chrum.com Amid a quirky design that mimics a butcher’s store, find a cult collection of tees and hoodies

emblazoned with playful slogans and punchy graphics. Showcasing the fun side of Polski design, Chrum caters to customers who enjoy their fashion with a pinch of humor. di Trevi Boutique ul. Piękna 11A, ditrevi.pl Aimed at both him and her, Di Trevi present the freshest Italian footwear releases from prestige brands such as Ballin and Loriblu. Handbags are also available inside a chic interior that exudes luxury.

EM Cashmere Boutique ul. Szczygla 8, emcashmere.pl Available brands include Allude Cashmere, Annette Görtz, Studiorundholz and Sarah Pacini with 30-40% discounts on last year’s collections, and up to 70% on those of previous years.

A truly beautiful find with the clothes offer supplemented with shoes and accessories.

Frank A ul. Natolińska 3, franka.pl The interior is painfully chic and the clothing effortlessly elegant with a minimalist edge. Stocks major brands that you can’t find anywhere else in Warsaw, from handbags from Pauric Sweeney, perfectly fashioned tees from American Vintage and ballet flats from Bloch.

Gosia Baczyńska ul. Floriańska 6/11, gosiabaczynska.com. pl This elegant boutique on the other side of the river features gorgeous, unique designer pieces.

gifts for him - professional advice for a highly personalized gift - unique best quality ties, bow ties, cufflinks and scarves - Gift Cards for all items ul. Sienna 39 tel. 22 243 7377 www.vanthorn.pl www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / shopping Hamper’s Bay ul. Dobra 11, hampersbay.com Fit out and fit into the local scene by stocking up on clothes from this Powiśle staple. Brands include Komono, Dynomighty, Uggly, Happy Socks and Wemoto. No-one knows why, or too whom, but they also sell surfboards.

Hard Rock Cafe ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), hardrockcafe.pl No wardrobe is complete without the iconic Hard Rock t-shirt! Find the Warsaw-stamped version available here, along with other extras for the all American look.

Joanna Klimas ul. Nowolipki 2, joannaklimas.com One of Poland’s top fashion designers runs this boutique/showroom. Choose from the latest collections or have a dress custom made for a particular occasion.

Likus Concept Store ul. Bracka 9 (Vitkac), likusconceptstore.pl The Likus Concept Store brings ultra-chic designer clothing to Warsaw. The latest collections from Diesel, D2, Ferre, Sophia Kokosalaki and J. Lindeberg are all available and presented in this stylish three-floor department store.

Lolly Pop Boutique Al. Jerozolimskie 169 lok 45A (C.H. Blue City, level 1), lollypop.pl Latest fashion from See

by Chloe, Calvin Klein, Calvin Klein Jeans, Melissa, UnitedNude, Bronx and many more.

For online shopping, check: sklep.lollypop.pl Maciej Zień Boutique ul. Mokotowska 57, zien.pl A flagship boutique from one of the stars of Polish fashion. Check Zień Home upstairs for the ultimate designer showroom.

Madox ul. Browarna 4, madoxdesign.com Best known for the baggy crotched trousers that took Warsaw by storm a couple of years back, Damian Nowacki’s fashion store juxtaposes urban street casual against unisex ideas.

Moliera 2 Boutique ul. Moliera 2, moliera2.com Brands: Alexandre Vauthier, Balmain, Beach Bunny, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Gianvito Rossi, Herve Leger, Isabel Marant, Jimmy Choo, Kenzo, Kotur, Maison Michel, Moncler,

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One Teaspoon, Pierre Balmain, Ralh Lauren, Simonetta Ravizza, Tod’s, Tory Burch, Valentino, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon.

www.reykjavikdistrict.com Chic, well-cut menswear for all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal.

Pan Tu Nie Stal Koszykowa 35/40, pantuniestal.com Polish design at its peak: fashion is prominent, but there’s also interesting bitsy things such as aprons, jam jars, notebooks and mugs – all with a defiantly Polish twist. Eccentric, unusual and emphatically on-trend, it’s a must-visit.

Sabotage ul. Burakowska 5/7 Those in-the-know know Sabotage as one of the places to buy funky deconstructed denim and sportswear pieces. Here you’ll find a wide array of unique clothes, hats, belts and handbags in a variety of fabrics and styles that hail straight from New York, London and Tokyo.

Pinko Klif shopping Centre, ul. Okopowa 58/72, Nowy Świat 1, Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), pinko.it Straight from Italy, this exclusive shop offers an array of chic day wear and eye-catching casual and evening clothes.

Safripsti ul. Oleandrów 3 Formerly a make-up artist in London and Paris, owner Magdalena returned to Poland to open a vintage boutique. Buying wholesale – meaning prices are kept in check – her fashion store presents finds like authentic cheerleader outfits and Hawaiian shirts for summer, not to mention a great selection of denim, parkers and so forth. And how about a classic Burberry mac for zł. 200?

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, plactrzechkrzyzy.com Brands: Christian Louboutin, Dsquared2, Fay, Gianvito Rossi, Hogan, Kenzo, Moncler, Ralph Lauren, Tod’s, Tom Ford, Valentino, Yves Salomon, Pierre Balmain, Beach Bunny, Kotur, Marc by Marc Jacobs, One Teaspoon, Simonetta Ravizza, Victoria Beckham.Kolekcje dla dzieci: Baby Dior, Dolce&Gabbana Kids, Dsquared2 Kids, Kenzo Kids, Moncler Kids, Ralph Lauren Kids, Tod’s Kids.

Premiere Klif shopping Centre, ul. Okopowa 58/72 The boutique continues the Versace connection with a special “Versace Corner” nestled in the company of the last pieces from the Calvin Klein Collection and VJC Versace.

Ptasia 6 ul. Ptasia 6, ptasia6.pl A unique ladies concept store showcasing the works of both emerging and established independent Polish fashion labels such as Eva Grygo, Confashion, Horror! Horror!, Kasia Miciak and Polanka.

QπШ - Robert Kupisz ul. Mokotowska 48/204 (courtyard), robertkupisz.com One of Warsaw’s hottest fashion icons, and a trip here soon explains why. The exclusive, handmade garments are a guaranteed head turner.

Reykjavik District ul. Burakowska 15, tel. 501 399 222, open Tue-Fri 13:00-19:00; Sat-Sun 13:00-17:00,

Teresa Rosati Al. Witosa 31 (Panorama), teresarosati.com. pl Elegant cocktail dresses, gowns for special occasions and beautiful fabrics from one of Poland’s best-known designers. Ready-towear and custom-made services at discreet location in Sadyba by appointment.

Two Can Play ul. Wilcza 32, two-can-play.com For those who value individuality in fashion owner Michał has created a progressive concept store that looks to promote brands that you’d struggle to find here: nat & nin, Denham, Eleven Paris, White Tent and much more besides.

Fashion Van Thorn ul. Sienna 39, tel. 22 243 7377, vanthorn. pl Bespoke and made-to-measure suits as well as custom-made shirts and a range of accessories from ties and pocket squares down to shoes and cufflinks. The attention to detail, the quality and craftsmanship are staggering.

Vintage Store ul. Dobra 56/66 (Level 1, University of Warsaw library), www.vintagestore.pl Since its inception the store has grown in many ways – now, used brands like Burberry,

Ulica Chmielna 4

Perfect gifts for Christmas Chmielna 4 Warszawa tel. 508 616 684 info@mydlarniawarszawa.pl facebook.com/mydlarniawarszawa/

listings / shopping Barbour, dresses from the ’70s, Hermes scarves, snakeskin handbags, or original Adidas sweaters from the ’60s and ’70s (the owner is an avid collector) are not an uncommon find in the shop.

Viola Śpiechowicz ul. Kolejowa 55 (Łomianki), vsstore.eu/ violaspiechowicz.com Viola Spiechowicz is an inspiring and highly creative fashion designer who has cultivated her own original and inimitable style since her 1992 debut. Her designs are the result of a long search for the perfect form, texture and color scheme, lending each project its own unique style: be it fashion, upholstery fabrics or accessory design.

home Magazyn Praga ul. Mińska 25, magazynpraga.pl A visit to this home design store is guaranteed to transform your apartment. Showcasing emerging Polish talent, the items here are not without humor: ceramic French bulldogs are particularly popular. The Warsaw-themed photo montages by artist Katarzyna Osipowicz are riveting, and a surefire conversation starter.

Makutra ul. Oleandrów 5, makutra.com To know and not to cook, is not to know. This store has everything a master chef seeks: from tagines to mezzalunas, it’s got the lot covered. Huge stock of cook books and kitchenware. noon/noon ul. Pańska 98 (enter from ul. Prosta), noonnoon.pl Well-balanced as a coffee bar / showroom where you can interact and experience the functionality and quality of the furniture first hand.

Pies Czy Suka ul. Szpitalna 8A, piesczysuka.com Husband and wife team Beata Konarska and Paweł Konarski push the boundaries of creativity in a home design store that’s heavy with statement pieces: life sized moldings of animals, illuminated Jesus statues, edgy art, etc.

Product Placement ul. Leszczyńska 12, polishdesignnow.com Anyone doubting Poland’s growing reputation in the world of home design hasn’t been to Product Placement. Ceramics, furniture, textiles, kitchenware, bags and gadgets – everything is worth a look.

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Reset Point ul. Puławska 48 sklep.resetpoint.pl A treasure trove of renovated antique furniture, vinyl clocks, 70s style handle-less PRL mugs and modern art prints of legendary landmarks such as Dworzec Centralny and the Palace of Culture. Plenty of pieces and curios from upcoming and established domestic design studios.

SH Studio ul. Wilcza 44, s-h-studio.pl Art, interior design and furniture are married together inside a tiny store stacked with beautiful antique and retro pieces that have been refurbished and redesigned to lend them a contemporary edge.

Spod Lady ul. Chmielna 26, spodlady.com Step in and breathe in the atmosphere of communist Poland. This shop’s a beauty, and brims with collectibles that have seen classic PRL keepsakes given a contemporary update.

Books, films, bags, toys and general items for the home inside this cult courtyard store.

Take a Nap ul. Mysia 3 This two floor shop is full of bedtime accessories like comfy sheets, pillows, comforters and blankets, plus fun bits of furniture that merge the modern with a country living twist. Downstairs there’s a broader selection of bed frames, couches and mattresses.

Wawa Bla Bla ul. Dobra 15 A gift store with a difference: showcasing the working of Poland’s upcoming ‘street artists’, not to mention the British proprietor’s own photos of Warsaw’s graffiti, this shop is filled with unconventional keepsakes that include canvas prints, Warsaw-themed mugs and one-of-a-kind postcards.

malls & department stores Arkadia Al. Jana Pawła II 82, tel. 22 323 6767, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00, www.arkadia.com.pl Atelier Mokotowska 63 ul. Mokotowska 63 Four levels of high end fashion, with Woolrich, Mason’s, Lardini,

Boglioli, Borelli and Seventy all represented.

Intimate, discreet and above all luxurious.

Blind Concept Store ul. Mokotowska 63/100, tel. 501 770 661 From established international names to upcoming local designers, consider Blind your one-stop fashion solution. Find it all from eclectic jewelry from Anka Krsytyniak and Chocokate, eyewear from Cheap Monday and Woodyglasses, killer heels from United Nude and Melissa & Vivienne Westwood, etc Galeria Mokotów ul. Wołoska 12, tel. 22 541 4141, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00, galeriamokotow.com.pl Klif House of Fashion ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4500, open Mon-Sat 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. klif.pl Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has everything from the excellent Alma supermarket to top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko.

Plac Unii ul. Puławska 2, tel. 22 204 0499, open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00, placunii.pl Warsaw’s latest mall counts Armani Jeans, Liu-Jo and Pandora amongst its upmarket tenants.

Mysia 3 ul. Mysia 3, tel. 603 767 574, mysia3.pl Hip department store that’s seen a few tenants come and go, yet has remained on the cutting edge in spite of it all. Set in Poland’s former censorship office, the line-up includes Scandinavian fashion in Cos, shoes from My Paris, unconventional fashion from Nenukko and more.

Vitkac Wolf Bracka Vitkac, ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7313, open Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00; Sun 11:00-18:00, likusconceptstore.pl Vitkac was made for with a credit card blitz in mind. Poland’s first luxury department store gathers the world’s top designers under one roof, with brands including Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton, Stella McCartney and Rick Owens.

Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59, tel. 22 222 2200, open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00, zlotetarasy.pl Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Jatomi Health and Fitness Club

family activities Barwy Muzyki ul. Niecała 14, tel. 22 188 18 27, www. barwymuzyki.pl This informal music school, with highly qualified teachers experienced in the Colour Strings program, acknowledges not every child will be a professional musician but that playing, listening and singing to music is an asset to their development. Group or individual lessons on piano, violin, guitar, cello and flute for 6-12yrs.

PHOTOGRAPH BY GILL BOELMAN-BURROWS

THE MOVIES!

Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. 22 596 41 00, open Tue-Fri 9:00-6:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-7:00, www.kopernik.org.pl A brilliant array of science-inspired attractions that prove as stimulating for parents as they are for the kids. Check out Galeria BZZZ, an area designated for children up to six. In order to keep numbers manageable, expect entry times to be staggered.

KINO MURANÓW (ul. Andersa 5, muranow.gutekfilm.pl) Introduce the family to some of Poland’s best loved cartoon characters such as Bolek & Lolek, Reksio the loveable mongrel or the iconic Koziołek Matołek. Afterwards, browse the wall of fame while the children attend workshops held under the guidance of experienced animators. Ages 3+. Every Saturday 11 a.m., tickets zł. 12.

Cukier Lukier ul. Emilii Plater 10, tel. 605 660 005, open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00; Sat-Sun 10:0018:00, www.cukierlukier.pl Confectionary making courses and displays that attract kids of ALL ages.

KINTOEKA (Pl. Defilad 1, kinoteka.pl) With its Gotham City sense of largesse, there’s something grand and glam about arriving at Kinoteka. To celebrate Mikołajki, and the cinema’s 15th birthday, they plan on rolling out the red carpet on December 6th for a full day of film-related entertainment. Indoor and outdoor screens will show 40 films and will run alongside workshops and other behind-the-scenes activities.

Fryzjerkowo ul. Foksal 12/14, tel. 22 827 2744, open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-18:00, www.fryzjerkowo.pl This 100% child friendly hair salon with jungle theme interior will guarantee no tears! Whilst having their locks chopped children sit in a toy car and watch a favorite DVD. Mum can peruse the retro toys and classic books on sale. Owner speaks excellent English. Advance booking recommended.

KINO PRAHA (ul. Jagiellońska 26, kinopraha.pl) For budding ballerinas, The Nutcracker (performed by the Bolshoi Ballet Company) will be screened at Kino Praha from December 20th (tickets from zl.40). Also, book now for the unique opportunity to celebrate New Year’s Eve at the movies! Movie related games and competitions are planned for children while parents sip bubbles and boogie to top Broadway musical hits played by a DJ! Then enjoy your movie (see repertoire) before watching the fireworks.

MOVIE GROUP WARSAW Can’t stand dubbing? No problem. One expat mum, in cooperation with Mums & Tots of Warsaw and Cinema City (Sadyba Best Mall), is organizing for movies to be screened with original English dialogue. Tickets must be purchased via Sharon Boren (Sharonboren1@gmail.com).

Fundacja Atelier ul. Foksal 11, 22 826 8813 or 22 826 9589, open Mon-Fri 10:00- 20:00, Sat 9:30-20:30, www.atelier.org.pl Situated in an atmospheric 19th century building this foundation organizes affordable/flexible workshops to develop and inspire art education and creative skills (painting/drawing/sculpture/ art history) for children, young people and adults.

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listings / family Guitar Classes Tel. 732 860 825, arekniezgoda@hotmail. com Private guitar lessons either at your place or in a private studio in Wilanów.

Classic, acoustic and electric guitar taught by Arek, a 35-year old teacher who covers most styles from classic to pop/rock. Previous work experience includes teaching in private music schools in California and at The British School of Warsaw. Both kids and adults are welcome.

Hangar 646 ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 646, hangar646.pl Children with excessive energy levels should head to Hangar 646. Located in a former airport hangar, the 2,700 sq/m of trampoline space includes a swimming pool of sponges.

Children from three years old are welcome to let off steam, with instructors available to teach acrobatics and suchlike; or you can just bounce off walls!

HulaKula ul. Dobra 56/66, tel. 22 552 74 00, open Mon-Tue 12:00-24:00; Wed 12:00-1:00; Fri 12:00-3:00; Sat 10:00-4:00; Sun 10:00-24:00, www.hulakula.com.pl Bowling alley and soft indoor playground: heaven for kids and hell for grown-ups! Children love to climb, explore and slide into large ball pools.

Parents hate the lack of daylight and fast food menu.

Little Chef ul. Bałuckiego 30/1, tel. 501 093 691,

www.littlechef.pl (visit for more information) Cooking classes for children age 3-16. Groups for younger children age 4-10 and Junior Chef courses age 11-16. Kids cook and eat healthy meals. Great fun! Classes in English and Polish, Mon-Sat.

The Little Gym ul. Bruzdowa 56 & ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 45, tel. 22 842 0728, www. thelittlegym.eu Expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-to-child ratio, original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. Not only a great place for children, but tailored to a comfortable and relaxing stay for parents as well.

Manufaktura Cukierów ul. Tamka 49 (enter from Ordynacka), open Mon-Fri 11:00-18:00; Sat 11:00-17:30; Sun 13:00-17:30, tel. 692 888 751, www. manufaktura-cukierkow.pl Sweet making courses in a confectionary factory! Lessons are conducted in Polish, though enthusiasm is more important than a mastery of the language.

Mums & Tots www.mumsandtots.pl A volunteer group for mums (and dads) of all nationalities – coffee mornings, play groups, art and music classes and nights out for parents; the list is endless.

JOIN US FOR 3 DECEMBER 3:30 - 6:30 P.M. PŁYĆWIAŃSKA 14A

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For more details, as well as their newsletter and schedule check their web.

Teatr Guliwer ul. Różana 16, tel. 22 845 16 76/77, box office open 9:00-17:30, www.teatrguliwer. waw.pl Well worth a visit, even for non-Polish speakers. An exciting colorful premises with creative costumes make this the choice place to introduce the kids to theater.

Warsaw Zoo ul. Ratuszowa 1/3, tel. 22 619 4041, open Mon-Sun 9:00-18:00, www.zoo.waw.pl The hippopotami now have an indoor and outdoor pool, the gorillas a new pavilion, and the arrival of a shark means it now has an ‘aquarium’.

Zachęta Gallery Pl. Małachowskiego 3, tel. 22 556 9600, open Tue-Sun 12:00-20:00, www.zacheta. art.pl Recently undergone extensive modernization but still awaiting a café, this gallery and bookshop offer a perfect introduction to modern art. Also available are weekend workshops for children and original cultural birthday parties guided by experienced animators in a contemporary environment.

education preschools

American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel.

22 702 85 00, www.aswarsaw.org ASW provides an American-styled educational program to students aged 4 and 5. The curriculum offers a rich, meaningful and balanced educational experience through age-appropriate activities. For further information and/ or to visit our school, contact: admissions@ aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00.

The British Primary School of Wilanów ul. Hlonda 12, www.bsww.pl, tel. 781 988 000 Following the National Curriculum of England and Wales, this is the first School in Poland subject to the inspection of the UK Independent School Inspectorate.

Pupils receive British and, upon request, Polish reports/diplomas. The school follows a closed admissions policy and limits enrollment of one nationality to below 50% of each class starting from Year 1. Currently,

listings / family admission is offered to children between 2 and 9 years old for 2015/16.

The British School Early Years Centre ul. Dąbrowskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel.

22 646 7777, british@thebritishschool.pl, www.thebritishschool.pl The British School provides special classes from pre-nursery aged 30 months to 6 years old. Children at the Early Years Centre move on to our Primary and Secondary schools at Limanowskiego 15.

Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. Call to make an appointment to tour any of the 3 schools.

Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupery ul. Nobla 16, tel. 22 616 14 99, www.ecolemontessori.pl The preschool is located in the Saska Kępa district and provides a Montessori curriculum in French for children aged from 18 months to 6 years old.

The English Playhouse ul. Pływiańska 14a & ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 22 843 9370, office open 8:00-16.00, www.theenglishplayhouse.com The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów.

The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old. For more info or to arrange a tour of the pre-school or nursery

The British School of Warsaw in Wilanów ul. Hlonda / Ledóchowskiej, tel.

781 988 000, bsww.pl The school is affiliated with University of Cambridge International Examinations which mandates the educational program, qualifications and examinations for pupils up to 19 years of age. Currently admission is offered only to children between 2 and 7 years old (Nursery and Reception, Year 1 levels) for 2014/15. Older children are encouraged to submit application for 2015/16 or 2016/17.

The Canadian School of Warsaw Preschool ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, preschool@canadianschool.pl The Canadian School of Warsaw is the only authorized school in Warsaw teaching IB PYP in English. The preschool offers a bilingual environment for 3-6 year olds enriched with foreign languages and extra activities. Serving the Warsaw community since 2000 all children are welcome, though available space is limited. For further info, tours and school visits call or email.

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations)

Warsaw Montessori School ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www.warsawmontessori. edu.pl Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have 3 green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy.

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listings / family call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email: jnowak@theenglishplayhouse.com

The English Primary ul. Rzodkiweki 18, tel. 784 037 808, jnowak@tep.edu.pl An English primary school designed to prepare children for their next steps in education and life in a friendly, caring and nurturing environment. Following the English curriculum in a truly English primary school setting we take children from the international community through the key learning stages so they achieve to their best ability through a fun learning experience.

The International Preschool of Warsaw ul. Kalatowki 24, tel. 22 843 0964, ipw. edu.pl IPW is located in a residential area of Mokotów, within walking distance of Królikarnia as well as both tram and metro lines. Children from 2.5 to 6 years old are welcome. English is the language spoken and breakfast, lunch and snacks are provided during the day. Children also have the opportunity to participate in gymnastics, music, art and drama classes. IPW serves the international community and prepares children for international education.

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Happy Montessori House Warsaw Montessori Pre-school, ul. Rumiana 14, tel. 22 423 50 75, mob. 697 060 504, open 7.30-17:00, www.hmh.com. pl The Happy Montessori House offers part-time and full-time places for children aged between 2 to 6 years, as well as toddler-focused activities (from 18 months to 3 years) centered around movement, sensorial stimulation, storytelling, singing and socialising.

Maple Tree Montessori ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/ Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, www.mapletreemontessori.pl Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). Find them located in the Wilanów district of Warsaw, in a house safely nestled into the end of a quiet street.

Międzynarodowa Szkoła Podstawowa Argonaut ul. Radarowa 6, tel. 504 509 504, open Mon-Fri 7.30-18:00, www.argonaut.edu.pl This elementary school is open for children

of all nationalities and backgrounds. It places a focus on learning English as well as additional languages, and has an attractive list of available extracurricular activities.

Montessori Academy for International Children ul. Królewicza Jakuba 36 (Wilanów), open Mon-Fri 8:00-16:15, ul. Sadowa 4 (Konstancin), Open 8:00-16:45, tel. 502 315 022, www.montessoriacademy.eu An English-speaking pre-school (16 months to 6 years of age) with two locations. The school’s policy is to comply with Montessori standards, using the Montessori Method in English. The school’s philosophy is based on the joy of learning, which comes from discovering and furthering the individual development of each child.

Primrose Bilingual Preschool ul. Bernardyńska 16A lok U7, tel. 22 415 8500, primrose.edu.pl Following the ‘immersion’ method, each class has two teachers – one Polish-speaking, the other English.

Through this children have all-day contact with different languages, absorbing them in everyday situations. In accordance with the hands-on methodology, children also take part in daily workshops ranging from kitchen science to art and craft classes.

Trilingual Pre-school and Nursery “Three Languages” Center ul. Karowa 14/16 lok 6 (3-6 year olds); ul. Cicha 5 lok 1 (1-2 year olds), open

listings / family Mon-Fri 7:30-18:30, tel. 517 872 682, www.3languages.pl The only trilingual pre-school and nursery teaching English, Spanish and Polish through total language immersion. All educators are native speaker pre-school teachers. The comprehensive curriculum follows American, Spanish and Polish curriculum standards. The pre-school was awarded European Language Label in 2012.

schools American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, www. aswarsaw.org ASW is a premier collegepreparatory international school that offers a PK-12 curriculum, including the IB Diploma Program in Grades 11 and 12. Students are inspired and challenged every day by experienced and dedicated teachers, who provide enriching learning opportunities in a world class facility. For further information and/ or to visit our school contact: admissions@ aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00.

The British School ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, open 8:00-16:00, british@thebritishschool. pl, www.thebritishschool.pl Top-ranking

private school in Warsaw providing outstanding education based on the British system.

The Canadian School of Warsaw Elementary School ul. Bełska 7, tel.

692 411 573, admission@ canadian-school.pl, www.canadian-school.pl The Canadian School of Warsaw is the only authorized school in Warsaw teaching IB PYP in English. The Primary School offers bilingual education for 6-11 year olds. Highly qualified, international staff, challenging materials and a friendly atmosphere provide an optimal setting for the highest standard of education.

Extra-curricular activities include visual arts, designing classes, ceramics/pottery, art studio, music lessons (piano, guitar, choir), sports (capoeira, karate, judo, soccer, swimming, gymnastics), languages (English, Polish, French, Spanish, Italian, German) and more.

The Canadian School of Warsaw Middle School ul. Olimpijska 11, tel. 885 420 044 / 885 620 066, secretary.olimpijska@canadian-school.pl, www.canadian-school.pl Provides a continuation of PREIB education for 11-15 year olds.

International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create a perfect learning and creative thinking environment.

For further info, tours and school visits call or

email. Also home to the Non-Public PsychoPedagogical Counseling Centre ‘Olimpia’ (tel.

885 620 066) which examines the level of mental, emotional, auditory and visual-motor functions’ development, and conducts individual and group pedagogical therapy, as well as individual psychotherapy..

Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupery ul. Nobla 16, tel. 22 616 14 99, www.saintexupery.pl Established in 1994, the Antoine de Saint-Exupery preschool and school provides a French curriculum for children aged from 3 to eleven years old in a welcoming family atmosphere. Highly qualified native French-speaking teachers.

Warsaw Montessori School ul. Szwoleżerów 4, tel. 22 841 3908, sylvia@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www. warsawmontessori.edu.pl Focuses on the Montessori curriculum with an education based on the integration of conceptual learning and real-life experiences.

cafes Figa z Makiem (Saska Kępa) ul. Walecznych 64, tel. 512 939 001, open Mon-Sat 10.30-19:00, Sun 11:00-19:00, www.figazmakiem.edu.pl One

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listings / family of the latest and greatest addition to the growing roster of Warsaw kid cafes. Do some well selected designer kids shopping while waiting, or simply browse the books and toys section while your little ones romp in the kids room.

needs a bit of luxury from time-to-time.

The café divides its limited square meters evenly between parent and child expectations, creating space to relax, eat and play in: however, the gigantic doll’s house does suggest Barbie got the best deal.

Kalimba ul. Mierosławskiego 19, tel. 22 839 75 60 or 501 183 953, open Mon-Fri 9:30-20:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-20:00, www.kalimba.pl Kalimba café caters to Warsaw’s boho-chic community. Relax with long latte’s or nibble healthy snacks whilst kids climb a spiral staircase to the indoor tree house, role-play in the kitchen area or join creative workshops.

The shop, with original handmade toys is tempting, but it’s the pick’n’mix candy that’s unavoidable!

shops

Nowa Kuźnia (Wilanów) ul. Stanisława Kostki-Potockiego 24, tel. 500 200 200, open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-22:00, www. nowakuznia.pl Hugely child friendly, Nowa Kuźnia comes into its element each summer when the garden is turned into a giant faux beach – complete with diggers, slides and a see-saw.

Peek-a-boo ul. Karola Chodkiewicza 7, tel. 22 370 21 71, open Mon-Sun 10:00-20:00 The pale palette and plush velvet upholstered furniture might not be the first choice of fabrics around sticky, chocolaty paws but every mummy

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Endo www.endo.pl Endo is the original home of quality children’s wear that embraced great design by Polish artists and accompanied it with Polish slogans. Much of the materials used are organic, hardwearing and wash well.

Muppetshop ul. Kazimierzowska 43, tel. 532 689 212, muppetshop.pl An innovative concept store that offers a wide range of brands and products targeted at young people – babies, juniors, teenagers. The portfolio includes full-service for expecting parents as well as complete interior projects (from 0 to the first-owned apartment). On top of that expect a wealth of other design products (kitchen accessories, decorations, toys, bags, books etc.) from carefully selected brands such as Quax, Lodger, Chispum, Shnuggle, Collegien, Jielde, Gubi and many more besides. It all serves to make it the No. 1 spot for your youngsters shopping.

Kopytko Mamuta ul. Boya-Żeleńskiego 2, kopytkomamuta.pl The creation of Kopytko Mamuta plugs a gap in the market, with beautifully cobbled shoes that are, in the words of the owner Agnieszka, ‘the essence of Parisian chic’.

Specializing in trendy kicks from the likes of Mercredi Apres Midi, it’s the ultimate spoiler for your budding style maven and her little Prince Charming.

Pieluszkarnia ul. Topiel 12, ul. Mandalińskiego 25, tel.

22 713 8275, open Mon-Fri 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-15:00. www.pieluszkarnia.pl This small chain specializes in eco-friendly toys and clothing designed and produced in Poland. Products include the Lalanka dolly clothing collection, luxuriously soft reversible winter balaclavas and Martello blankets personalized for births etc.

Mimbla ul.Mokotowska 51/53, tel. 22 629 3065, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-14:00.

Exclusively for kids on Warsaw’s most exclusive shopping street it’s an Aladdin’s cave of quality toys and Polish/English books. Get your gift wrapped here and both mum and child will be happy even before opening it.

Smyk Multiple stores, tel. 22 462 7250, www. smyk.pl Smyk is Poland’s answer to Mothercare; from bottle sterilizing kits to pencil cases, early learning toys to Disney classics and a wide range of seasonal clothing, this store will take you from childbirth to high school!

health & beauty gyms Fitness Centre at the Radisson SAS Centrum Hotel ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888 Smallish but well-regarded gym with swimming pool, sauna, gym, and group classes inside one of Warsaw’s top five stars.

Fitness Centre at the Sheraton Hotel ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6701, sheraton. com/warsaw The Sheraton spa features sauna, steam room and massage, while the gym comes with LCD-fitted running and cycling machines, and a dedicated cardio section. Personal training available, as are group classes covering pilates, yoga, aerobics and even ski conditioning.

CUT THE ICE… NATIONAL STADIUM (Al. Poniatowskiego 1, zimowynarodowy.pl) Having recorded a staggering half a million visitors last year, this is the rink everyone is talking about. Set inside the National Stadium, find 5,000 sq/m of ice spread over three rinks, an ‘ice hill’, Christmas market and oodles of other distractions.

PHOTOGRAPH SHUTTERSTOCK

FIGLOWISKO (Al. KEN, outside Imielin Metro, figlowisko.pl) You know those times when you have to skate, no matter what the time is? Figlowisko comes to the rescue with a 1,100 sq/m rink that’s open around the clock. The organizers like to stress their family friendly nature, with other attractions including bouncy castles, slides, air hockey, etc.

OLD TOWN (pictured) (Rynek Starego Miasto) Following its hugely successful debut two years back, Old Town’s ice rink returns on December 6th. As before, there’ll be a number of wooden cabins selling mulled wine, sausages and touristy gifts, as well as a couple of skate rental points. Open till 10 p.m. on weekends, skating in the open while Xmas lights glimmer above is a true ‘Welcome to Warsaw’ experience.

PALACE OF CULTURE (Pl. Defilad 1) Head to the Marszałkowska side of PKiN to find 850 sq/m of ice complete with rental cabins and a couple of food and drink outlets. Opening on December 6th, it’ll be accessible each day from 10 a.m. till 9 p.m.

Holmes Place Energy Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (C.H. Arkadia), ul.

Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), holmesplace.pl Making top-flight gym facilities available to the masses, the Holmes Place Energy brand offers high standard equipment, personal training and group classes. Six month membership available for approx. zł. 200 per month, though prices are subject to change. For latest details enquire direct.

Holmes Place Premium ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel), tel.

22 851 0563, ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), tel. 22 313 1222, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), tel. 519 436 841, holmesplace.pl Those who use it claim the Hilton branch is the best gym in Poland.

Set on two floors, highlights include a 25 meter pool, sauna and steam room and a spacious gym packed with the most modern equipment. Also on-site, a varied timetable of classes, excellent personal trainers and a Green Coffee relaxation area. There’s two more ‘premium’ gyms to choose from, including the one in the Marriott immortalized after Obama’s recent work out there.

The Little Gym ul. Bruzdowa 56, tel. 22 842 0728, www.thelittlegym.pl Targeted at children, expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-to-child ratio, original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / health & beauty McFit ul. Świętokrzyska 3 (corner of Nowy Świat), tel. 22 313 1400, mcfit.com The budget European chain signals its arrival to Poland with a 2,000 sq/m studio that utilizes the latest technology as well as ‘cyber training’ programs. Open 24/7, with membership from zł. 89 per month.

Pure Jatomi Fitness Platinum Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59, tel. 22 379 7777, open Mon-Fri 6:00-22:30; Sat 8:00-22:30; Sun 8:00-21:00, www.jatomifitness.pl The largest and fastest growing fitness chain in Poland currently has 35 locations and 117,000 members across the country. All clubs have new generation machines, innovative forms of group activities (Booiaka, Hot Yoga, Pure Pump, Pure Fire and Wah Gwan Dancehall) and professional personal trainers schooled in nutrition and the healthy lifestyle.

Pure Jatomi Fitness Platinum Zodiak ul. Widok 26, tel. 22 100 3400, open 24hrs, www.jatomifitness.pl Poland’s fastest growing fitness chain has been recognized for excellence after being named SCF Leisure & Fitness Retailer of the Year 2014. Other Pure Jatomi clubs in Warsaw include: Blue City, Galeria Renova, Sadyba Best Mall, Promenada and Targówek.

RiverView Wellness Centre ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental), tel. 22 328 86 40, www.riverview.com.pl Top-class facilities and equipment, private instructors and small classes. The view from the highest pool in Europe offers a glorious panorama of the city. Annual prices from zł. 4,200 (access from Mon-Fri 6 a.m. to 5 p.m.), zł. 5,760 (all times), and zł. 8,350 for Diamond Membership (includes two personal training sessions per month, a complimentary weekend at the InterContinental, restaurant discounts, etc.).

dental clinics ArtDental ul. Łucka 18, tel. 22 654 3006, artdental.pl Well-known among expats, ArtDental’s service is widely praised for its honest service and moderate prices. English speaking and moderately priced.

Aster Med ul. Św. Bonifacego 92, tel. 22 858 0354, www.astermed.pl Aster Med, while

102 Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2015

billing itself as a center of orthodontics and implantology, is really the full service with 14 dentists and 4 orthodontists and implant surgeons.

DeClinic ul. Bernardyńska 16A, tel. 22 112 0400, declinic.pl Regarded as one of the most modern clinics in Europe, amongst other innovations DeClinic have swapped the traditional drilling process in favor of abrasive sandblaster – perfect for kids or those afraid of the dentist.

DentaLux ul. Racławicka 31 & Puławska 257, tel. 22 787 878, dentalux.pl Englishspeaking service available, as well as 24hr emergency consultations.

EuroDental Various locations, tel. 22 380 7000, eurodental.pl English-speaking dentists on request. Lacking the ‘boutique’ charm of some of Warsaw’s more modish clinics, the service here is both efficient and moderately priced.

Odent ul. Nowoursynowska 145E (entry from ul.

Rosoła) & ul. Duchnicka 3, tel. 22 405 4430, odent.pl Dubbed ‘the clinic with a heart’, Odent’s personal approach is complimented by expert staff and the latest and most advanced treatments and equipment.

English-speaking service also available.

medical clinics Damian Medical Center Various locations, see website for details: damian.pl Established in 1994, Damian offer a wide range of medical services in their hospital and five outpatient clinics. English spoken widely.

Lux Med Medical Clinics Various locations, see website for details: www.luxmed.pl Medicover Various locations, see website for details: medicover.pl Hugely popular amongst ex-pats, Medicover offer a wide range of membership schemes for both private and corporate clients. The jewel in their crown is a state-of-the-art hospital in the Wilanów district.

Therapy Warsaw ul. Filtrowa 69/13, tel. 601 532 319, www.therapywarsaw.com English-speaking therapy for couples and individuals dealing with relationships, eating disorders, trauma, stress and much more besides.

Warszawskie Centrum Zdrowia ul. Nowogrodzka 76, tel. 22 857 3014, www.wcz.waw.pl Specializes in the prevention, early detection and treatment of cardiovascular disease.

spas & salons Barberian Academy & Barber Shop ul. Emilii Plater 25 & ul. Koszykowa 9 Away from the black clouds of metrosexuality, Barberian is where men gather to celebrate being men. Lauded as the local champion of male grooming, this stand out has a rebel chic layout and barbers who are experts in their field.

Bartek Janusz Salon ul. Mokotowska 19 / ul. Wilcza 72, tel. 22 828 4444, www.bartekjanusz.pl The staff here takes a no-nonsense approach to cutting hair – it goes along with the minimalist chic interiors of the place. According to one Insider: “I’ve never left a salon feeling so happy with my hair.”

Bio.Sis Nail Spa ul. Mokotowska 26, tel. 22 621 1404 A top spot for a classic manicure or pedicure – they also do lots of complicated things with gels and other hi-tech nail discoveries. Also on Elektoralna 24.

BodyClinic ul. Oboźna 9 lok. 104, tel. 22 826 1160 or 784 677 618, open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat 9:00-15:00, bodyclinic.pl From the usual options to a huge variety of massages and some very exotic treatments, BodyClinic covers all the bases.

Dotyk SPA ul. Biały Kamień 3, tel. 22 898 7272, open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Sat 9:00-18:00, www.dotykspa.pl Probably the only place in Warsaw where you’ll get a facial yoga session. Going futher east, treat yourself to Japanese, Polynesian or Indian massage.

Fiuu Fiuu Day Spa ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 629 2414.

listings / health & beauty A wonderful quick fix salon that makes use of the latest Ericson products and other top brands. Regarded as one of the top ladies day spas in the country.

Hair a Porter ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent, level -1), tel. 22 558 1555, open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat 9:00-17:00, www.hair-a-porter.pl A staunch favorite among the ex-pat crowd, Hair a Porter offer the ultimate hair experience utilizing talented staff and top-quality products.

Haircology ul. Rozbrat 44A, tel. 669 780 669, open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-last guest, www.haircology.pl An upmarket ecologically minded hairdresser that eschews such things as synthetic fragrances, silicon and preservatives.

La Plata ul. Wielicka 42, tel. 517 576 667, laplataspa.pl Manual and mechanized massage in a relaxed space inspired by Buddhist

philosophy. Treatments include herbal stamp Thai massage and hot coconut oil massage amongst others.

Le Spa ul. Mokotowska 55, tel. 22 622 9428, open Mon-Fri 9:00-21:00, Sat 9:00-16:00.

This little island of peace and beauty takes you light-years away from the bustle of Warsaw.

9:00-18:00, www.pedicure-place.pl A luxury pedi/manicure clinic with room for 10. All the latest OPI varnishes and over 200 colors guarantee you’ll find the latest in styling and nail care.

Rostowski ul. Koszykowa 58, rostowskibarbershop.pl A true celebration of the vintage barber shop, Rostowski have the ambiance nailed to a tee thanks to a crew that’s ready for banter and an interior replete with jack-up chairs, glinting zinc and restored floor tiles.

Pardon My French ul. Belwederska 32, tel. 22 240 6290, pardonmyfrench.pl The equipment here is state-of-the art, particularly the massage chairs for indulgent pedicures. While gel tips and all that hybrid stuff is all the rage now, it might be more prudent to get a classic mani/pedi to avoid beauty emergencies when you’re drifting in the middle of the Mediterranean on P. Diddy’s yacht.

Retro Day Spa Al. Ujazdowskie 18/11, no. 311, tel. 22 622 03 69, www.retrodayspa.pl Royally indulgent interiors hark back to a different century, though the treatments are all hi-tech and include packages for pregnant women among the variety of beauty offers.

The Pedicure Place ul. Pokorna 2, lok. u11, tel. 22 241 3000 or 505 828 688, open Mon-Fri 9:00-21:00; Sat

Spearside ul. Grzybowski 63, spearside.pl A male spa / salon offering massage,

BALINESE MASSAGE made by Original Therpaists from Bali Gift idea for the holidays: voucher for a Any kind of treatment.

www.bali-spa.pl tel. 570 707 634 ul. Nowy Świat 22 (at Al. Jerozolimskie)

MASSAGE & SPA Eco- Wellness www.warsawinsider.pl

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in the city

Watching the Royal Castle rise from a red mist of fireworks you realize there are few better places to spend New Year’s in Warsaw than on Pl. Zamkowy. It’s not always been associated with good times though: in 1861 over 100 civilians were massacred here while protesting against Russian rule. Then there’s the column to the side of the castle, a more recent reminder of bloody times. Felled by a German artillery round, that’s what remains of the original Zygmunt’s Column. Raised in 1644 to honor the man that shifted the Polish capital to Warsaw, the monarch’s sabre is said to be symbolic of bravery: should his sword fall, then Warsaw is doomed.

The Castle certainly has had its share of bad luck, and it’s hard to believe its post-war reconstruction was only completed in the 1980s. Key attractions? Don’t miss the apartment of Prince Poniatowski or the two original Rembrandt’s. Back outside, the best view of it all comes from the belfry of nearby St. Anne’s. Hawkeyed lovebirds may note that a covert sticker campaign has left it unofficially designated as an approved ‘kiss spot’. Back down the stairs you go, and finish at the escalator opposite.

It was the first in Poland, and original fittings are still in evidence: Socialist Realist reliefs and a set of quaint guidelines forbidding repeated rides.

104 Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2015

PHOTOGRAPHS TOP SHUTTERSTOCK, BOTTOM KEVIN DEMARIA

CITY WALK: PL. ZAMKOWY

listings / in the city VISITORS accomodation 5-Star Hotels

Bristol Hotel ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1000, bristol@luxurycollection. com, www.hotelbristolwarsaw.pl

H15 Boutique ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 553 8700, info@h15ab.com, www.h15ab.com Hilton Warsaw ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555 / 800 44 11 482, www.hilton.com InterContinental ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com Mamaison Le Régina Hotel Warsaw ul. Kościelna 12, tel. 22 531 6000, www. mamaison.com Marriott Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 6306, www.warsawmarriott.com Regent Warsaw Hotel ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, reservations@regent-warsaw.com, www.regent-warsaw.com The Rialto Boutique Hotel ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8700, www.rialto.pl Sheraton ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6100, www.sheraton.pl Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-warsaw

Sofitel Warsaw Victoria ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8011, www.sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com

Westin Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, www.westin.pl

4-Star Hotels

Courtyard by Marriott Hotel (Airport) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 0100, www.warszawacourtyard.pl Mecure Warszawa Centrum ul. Złota 48/54, tel. 22 697 3999, www.mercure.com Mercure Grand Warszawa ul. Krucza 28, tel. 22 583 2100, www.mercure.com

AGS Warsaw ul. Julianowska 37, Piaseczno, tel. 22 702 1072, www.agsmovers.com CorstJens Worldwide Movers Group ul. Nowa 23, Stara Iwiczna, tel. 22 737 7200, www.corstjens.com

Move One Relocations ul. Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 8160, www.moveonerelo.com Also immigration assistance, fine art shipping, pet transport and consulting services.

Novotel Warszawa Centrum ul. Marszałkowska 94/98, tel. 22 596 0000, www.novotel.com, www.accorhotels.com Novotel Warszawa Airport ul. 1-ego Sierpnia 1, tel. 22 575 6000, www.novotel.com, www.accorhotels.com Polonia Palace Hotel Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. 22 318 2800, www.poloniapalace.com Radisson Blu Sobieski pl. Zawiszy 1, tel. 22 579 1000, www.sobieski.com.pl

Bed & Breakfasts

Between Us Bed & Breakfast ul. Bracka 20, tel. 22 8285417 (from 10 a.m. to 11p.m.), www.between-us.eu Boutique B&B ul. Smolna 14/6, tel. 22 829 4800, www.bedandbreakfast.pl Chmielna Guesthouse ul. Chmielna 13, tel. 22 828 1282, www.chmielnabb.pl

RESIDENTS relocation companies Express Relocations ul. Szyszkowa 35/37, tel. 22 878 3539, www.expressrelocations.com Euro Move International Movers ul. Kineskopowa 1, Piaseczno, tel. 22 716 5566, www.euromove.pl

Relo Planet ul. Lwowska 5, tel. 22 658 1958, reloplanet.com International and domestic removals, transport and logistics solutions including office and individual moves, diplomatic posts, small shipments, storage and artwork.

storage Wiecej Miejsca Tel. 733 002 014, www.wiecejmiejsca.pl A new storage service that will even go so far as to pick up your items for you and transporting them to their guarded warehouse.

They’ll also the supply the storage bins which typically fit 90 books, 100 t-shirts, 25 jumpers. Larger items like bikes, suitcases can also be left with them.

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664 788 004, www.klubdialogu.pl Outstanding programs for foreigners living in Poland offer a variety of courses aimed at every level. Using over ten years of experience, the leaning process becomes an adventure at Klub Dialogu. www.warsawinsider.pl

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SPONSORED ARTICLE

The Art of the Pastel…

Running until the end of January, the National Museum in Warsaw presents Masters of Pastel, an exhibition presenting some of the biggest names in this genre. The Insider discovers what makes this style so unique…

106 Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2015

T

he pastel is a technique that allowed artists a considerable degree of creative freedom.

It enabled them to achieve diverse effects, approximating both drawing and painting. Its unquestionable value is the richness and subtlety of the color palette as well as the speed with which artists could finish their projects (there are even anecdotes concerning the vigorous style of their work). The first references to “dry coloring” are found in the writings of Leonardo da Vinci from the turn of the 15th and 16th centuries. However, the full benefits of using this technique were not appreciated until two centuries later, when it was most often employed in portrait painting. Its popularity in the early 18th century was, first and foremost, due to the easy manner of working with the crayons, the decidedly shorter posing time of the models and the lack of changes to the colors. Over time, the broadly used pastel became so established

SPONSORED ARTICLE

that it even endangered the dominant oil painting, as may be testified by the special tax imposed in France (1747), which was aimed predominantly at pastel portrait painters.

The particular properties of this method of painting result from the color crayons made from pigments, binder and white filler (chalk or gypsum). When using pastels to draw or paint, the artist left pastel “dust” on the surface of paper, parchment or canvas, which did not permeate the support or bind with it in a permanent manner. The unique result is at the same time the most serious problem facing art conservators: the painterly layer, very sensitive to mechanical damage such as abrasions or scratches, shows a strong tendency for dusting off. Therefore, special conservation methods and appropriate storage conditions are required to retain the good quality of works. Thus, this exhibition is a unique opportunity to see a rich collection of masters

of this genre.

Preparations for the exhibition also served as an opportunity to broaden our knowledge of the collection.

“On account of the exceptional material fragility of the works, they are generally not loaned to exhibitions outside the Museum and we try not to move or reshuffle them, unless necessary. This time, however, the paintings were removed from their frames, subjected to inspection and conservation treatments, and photographed; some even gained new attributions,” says Agnieszka Morawińska, Director of the National Museum in Warsaw. “One of the benefits of this preparatory process is the improved condition of our collection and considerable growth of knowledge, as readers of this catalogue will have a chance to find out.”

The National Museum in Warsaw Al. Jerozolimskie 3, www.mnw.art.pl www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / in the city community

museums

InterNations www.internations.org Drawing professionals from home and abroad the mission of InterNations is to bring together ‘global minds’. Now an established part of Warsaw’s social and corporate circuit, their monthly meetings have become Must Do events on schedules round town.

Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. 22 596 4100, kopernik.org.pl Interactive, witty and surprising, Copernicus allows visitors to experience an earthquake, blast recyclable objects into space and become a mystery cracking detective.

CSW ul. Jazdów 2, csw.art.pl Situated in a baroque-style castle the center hosts artists from all over the world. The bookshop is of particular interest for artists and intellectuals.

International Women’s Group of Warsaw iwgwarsaw.eu Unites expat women in Warsaw and offers cultural, educational and recreational activities. Meetings are held on the second and fourth Monday of the month.

Professionals in Warsaw meetup.com/Professionals-in-Warsaw New to town? There’s few better ways to give your social life a jump start than popping along to one of the informal drinks mixers conducted

by Professionals in Warsaw. Natives and foreigners of all backgrounds and professions are welcomed – all you have to do is buy your own drinks. Search for them on facebook.

The Heritage Interpretation Center ul. Brzozowa 11-13, mhw.pl Beginning with a gigantic tapestry of Warsaw circa 1873, this little known venue tells the complex story of Old Town’s reconstruction. Walking over a glass floor, beneath which lies smashed masonry and columns recovered from the ruins, a series of then-and-now slides and pictures document Old Town’s annihilation.

If the first section about Warsaw’s physical

elimination is poignant, then the others do a fabulous job of sharing the optimism and alacrity that followed.

The Fryderyk Chopin Museum in Warsaw Ostrogski Palace, ul. Okólnik 1, chopin. museum Recognized as one of the most hi-tech museums in Europe, computer chip tickets allow visitors the chance to personalize the museum experience as never before.

Over 5,000 objects are present, among them Chopin’s pocket watch, his last piano, a lock of hair and even his death mask.

Museum of Life Under Communism ul. Glucha, tel. 606 225 525, adventurewarsaw.com Run by the excellent Adventure Warsaw tour guide company, the Museum of Communist Life brings together aspects of communist life through dioramas that present typical living quarters of the time and a milk bar. Displays are numerous and quirky, and include a restored Saturator machine, a collection of commie hoovers, not to mention medals from the owner’s own family. A must see!

MEDIA PATRONAGE

WATCH DOCS INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL

Dec 4-10 Kino Muranów (Andersa 5), CSW (Jazdów 1), Kino Antropos (Ethnographic Museum, Kredytowa 1), Iluzjon (Narbutta 50A) This acclaimed human rights film festival presents more than sixty films from around the world with screenings accompanied by Q&As with filmmakers, debates, lectures and workshops. Naturally, events being played out in Ukraine and Syria will feature.

This year’s thematic retrospective, In Good Shape, will be a review of contemporary documentary film making.

For info, see: watchdocs.pl

A HAWK & A HACKSAW

Dec 13 Pardon, To Tupl. Grzybowski 12/16 Arriving from Albuquerque, New Mexico, this American band consists of accordionist Jeremy Barnes and violinist Heather Trost. Taking their inspiration from Eastern European, Turkish and Balkan musical traditions, this instrumentally-focused band have had their sound described as ‘a beautiful swirl of moods, timbres and textures’ – a perfect fit, therefore, with their host venue.

108 Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2015

BAZARCH 2015

Dec 13 Dom Towarowy Bracia Jabłkowscy ul. Bracka 25 While the rest of the city is going mad for Christmas, take a time-out to browse this architecture book fair. Over 30 Polish publishers will be represented, a fair number of whom publish books and albums in English. Amongst those present will be TMC, a noteworthy distributor of foreign language books.

listings / in the city Polin - Museum of the History of Polish Jews ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl Composed of eight galleries, each covers a different stage of local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day. Covering 4,000 sq/m, highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec synagogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical interwar Jewish Warsaw street.

Museum Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw ul. Pańska 3, artmuseum.pl Ongoing: Zofia Rydet. Record 1978-1990.

Rydet’s ‘Sociological Record’ comprises around 20,000 photographs from more than one hundred villages and towns located mainly in the Polish regions of Podhale, Upper Silesia and Suwałki area. Ongoing: Julius Koller. “?” One of the most important Slovak artists of his generation. The exhibition at the Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw presents a new appraisal of this iconic figure of postwar European art.

Museum of Technology Palace of Culture, pl. Defilad 1, muzeumtechniki.warszawa.pl Following a maze-like route in the Palace of Culture, there’s curios aplenty: a Viennese calculator dating from 1898 that’s still in working order; a glowing ‘glass lady’ that lights up to demonstrate the inner workings of the body; communist era sports cars; a WWII Enigma machine. More pertinent to the younger generation, there’s a selection of

vintage phones and laptop computers.

Museum of Warsaw Praga ul. Targowa 50/52, muzeumpragi. muzeumwarszawy.pl Newly opened at press time, the Praga Museum covers a variety of subjects relevant to Warsaw’s right bank, and includes a ‘hall of disappearing professions’, gallieries, exhibitions and a cafe specializing in delicacies specific to this suburb.

National Museum Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented.

The Neon Museum ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum. org This amazing project brings together the neon lights that once illuminated the city.

Among the collection are 35 landmark signs, many of which date from the 60s and 70s.

Palmiry National Memorial Museum Palmiry, palmiry.mhw.pl A ultimedia exhibition set next to a cemetery holding the graves of 1,700 Poles executed in the first years of Nazi occupation. The museum tells their forgotten story, with archival video footage complimented by exhumed exhibits and plenty of background info dealing with the siege and subsequent occupation of Warsaw.

Park Miniatur ul. Senatorska 38, miniaturymazowieckie.com

A small number of 1:25 scale models of some of the most beautiful and important buildings from Warsaw’s past. Brilliant details abound in this Lilliputian world, with helpful English explanations accompanying the models.

The Royal Castle in Warsaw Pl. Zamkowy 4, zamek-krolewski.pl Meticulously restored after WWII, highlights inside include the lavishly restored 18th century royal apartments with 22 paintings

by Canaletto, the Senators’ Chamber in which the Constitution of the Third of May was signed, the biggest collection of oriental rugs in Europe in the tin-roofed palace and two remarkable Rembrandt paintings.

Warsaw Rising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl Exhibits range from a full-size replica of a Liberator plane, to a sewer beneath the cinema screen and a slice of bread preserved from 1944. Don’t miss the ‘City of Ruins’, a five minute 3D film which takes you on an aerial journey over devastated Warsaw. For panoramic views of Warsaw check the view tower.

Zachęta National Art Gallery Pl. Małachowskiego 3, zacheta.art.pl Ongoing till Jan 10: Just After the War. This exhibition is an attempt to answer the question as to how the complicated social moods and political tensions in post-war Poland found their expression in the visual arts, photographs, film and also architecture and design.

w W a r s a www.city-tour.com.pl

Yellow Double-Decker Bus

Invites you to experience a panoramic tour of tourist attractions of the capital of Poland, Warsaw, in a relaxing and comfortable way.

Traveling over the course of approximately 1,5 hour, a double-decker bus will take you past many beautiful and interesting places of Warsaw, such as its interesting districts, palaces and churches, monuments and museums, parks and historical cemeteries, as well as the Jewish historical sites.

A GPS 12 language audio-guide, will give explanations and accompany you to make your ride a more adventurous, exciting and an unforgettable one.

Excellent Hop on Hop off and one trip service operates every day all year round.

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Line approved by municipal authorities.

www.city-tour.com.pl

+48 500 033 414

www.warsawinsider.pl

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AT E L I E R

LOOKING BACK

A Christmas Tale

W

hat’s big, ugly and scares people at Christmas?

Well, this year, it’s going to be the denuded skeleton of the former CeDeT/SMYK building that is shivering patiently on the corner of Bracka and Jerozolimskie until it is restored to its post-war modernist glory.

Designed by the renowned architects Zbigniew Ihnatowicz and Jerzy Romański in 1947-48, and completed in July 1951, the department-store building delighted Varsovians with its sleek, modernist design, underground parking and newfangled escalators (albeit heavy and Hungarian, and not the intended lighter French ones). At night, the whole edifice would light up from the inside. The effect was enhanced by the neon logo made up of the letters CDT (Centralny Dom Towarowy – Central Department Store) and its distinctive squiggle, while at Christmas locals would marvel at the neon decorations. Indeed, the architects themselves designed the building as a “lantern that cast its light into all of Warsaw”.

Communist ideologues were less thrilled, however, criticizing it as a being ‘cosmopolitan’ – a foul slur in the lexicon of the age. There was even a risk that Socialist Realist sculptures and decorations would be slapped all over it.

Luckily, work was already too far advanced and only discreet details were added to satisfy the dogmatists.

The promise of a better tomorrow that the design of the building offered soon revealed itself to be a lie. The staff were notoriously rude, the ventilation almost never worked, the toilets were always out of order and a general odor of

112 Warsaw Insider | DECEMBER 2015

dirt, cigarette smoke, disorder and hopelessness hung over the department store. Theft was an ever-present curse and the store was plagued by bands of unruly teenagers who would lounge around on the available sofas and give slovenly looks to staff and customers. A low point came three days before Christmas in 1964 when takings of nearly 1.5 million złotys were stolen in a heist that cost the life of one of the guards taking the cash to the bank.

The end of the building in its original form came on the night of 21 September 1975 when a fire broke out in the carpet and fabrics department. The blaze soon engulfed the rest of the building and by the end of the night the interior had been completely gutted. The official reason for the fire was a faulty escalator but word on the street placed the blame on an internal power struggle being waged in the lead-up to the seventh party congress. People’s credulity was stretched when other fires broke out around the same time, including on Łazienkowski bridge, which went up in flames a few days later, leading to the phrase “seven fires for the seventh party congress” being coined.

The rebuilding structure largely respected the original design but cheaper materials were used and the overall effect was less satisfying, and, thus, its current protected status only applies to the reinforced concrete structure. The restoration now taking place (due for completion in autumn 2017) aims to restore the original façade and illuminations, thereby giving back to the city one of its best examples of post-war modernism.

PHOTOGRAPH PAP

Inexorably linked with tales of Christmas past, the SMYK building – and the department store that once occupied it – has a place in every Varsovian heart… BY STUART DOWELL