Warsaw Insider September 2015 #229

Travel: Beginner’s Warmia / Mazury Guide page 32

Warsaw

Cocktail Trends page 24

Post-war Mystery page 18

page 30

September 09 price zł.10 INDEKS 334901 ISSN:1643-1723

(229)

2015

(VAT 8% included)

TAMING TAMKA Eat,Drink & Do page 12

SEPTEMBER 2015 Editor-in-chief Alex Webber

insider@warsawinsider.pl Art Director Kevin Demaria insider@warsawinsider.pl Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com

tioning: thank you. I might have died otherwise. August grew so hot, in fact, that at one stage I tipped a bag of ice cubes down my shorts. True story. Apologies for the imagery there, but desperate times require hardcore measures. So in my book, it’s good riddance to August. Not that the month just gone was a complete disaster.

I’ll remember it for a rip-roaring trip to Mazury / Warmia, the details of which you’ll find in the mag. Elsewhere, we take a deeper look at global cocktail trends, not to mention the ongoing hunt for the girl in one of city’s most iconic photos.

September also mean it’s back to work. In many cases, it means a raft of unfamiliar faces as a fresh batch of expats begin their new postings. For this reason, we’ve also included a bulletproof guide to the must-dos of Warsaw. Hope you enjoy it and see you next month…

INFRONT

Opener 7 News 8 Weather 10 Tamka 12 Trends 18

FEATURES

Beginner’s Guide 24 Post-war Mystery 30 Travel 32

2

Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

LISTINGS

Restaurants 48 Cafes & Wine Bars 76 Nightlife 80 Shopping 87 Family 90 Health & Beauty 95 In the City 98

REVIEWS

MOD 37 Signature 38 Falafel Bejrut 40 Product Placement 41

Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2015

PARTNER NEWS

The latest marketplace news from the Warsaw Insider’s friends and advertisers… 42

INBACK

Map 102 Looking Back 104

Contributors: Gill Boelman-Burrows Stuart Dowell Maria Mileńko Michał Miszkurka Ed Wight Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com ey Account Manager K A. Julita Pryzmont jpryzmont@valkea.com ey Account Manager K Adam Fogler afogler@valkea.com Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com Subscription 12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland.

Orders can be placed through: insider@warsawinsider.pl Printed by Zakład Poligraficzny TECHGRAF Tel. (17) 225-28-69 VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies.

All information ©2015 Warsaw Insider.

on the cover This issue we take a deeper look at the unsung hero of the Powiśle district: ul. Tamka: hence our lovely, little Tamka-themed cover. See page 12.

(Illustration by Michał Miszkurka)

PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT

Whoever invented air-condi-

CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN MEN GIANVITO ROSSI MEN KENZO MARC BY MARC JACOBS MONCLER RALPH LAUREN TOD’S TOM FORD TORY BURCH

BABY DIOR DOLCE&GABBANA KIDS DSQUARED2 KIDS KENZO KIDS MONCLER KIDS RALPH LAUREN KIDS TOD’S KIDS

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 tel.: +48 226221416, www.PlacTrzechKrzyzy.com

this month...

FOOD

FESTIVAL

Sat or Sun @ various locations Much more than the breakfast market it modestly bills itself as, this magical open air spot is a bit of everything: a food market, a picnic, even a place to get your bike fixed. Locations include Żoliborz, Powiśle, Ursynów and Mokotów.

4-20 Sept @ Muzeum Łazienki, ul. Agrykoli 1 The only festival in Poland dedicated to Baroque opera. The works of Handel, Vivaldi, Purcell and Rameau will be presented by Polish, Czech and Slovak performers.

Targ Śniadaniowy

For further info, see: targsniadaniowy.pl

Tickets zł. 120

CONCERT

CONCERT

Every Sunday, 12:00 & 16:00 @ Chopin Statue, Łazienki Park Listen to some of Poland’s top talents – young and old – recite works from Chopin’s oeuvre in the rose-edged gardens of Łazienki Park. The Sunday concerts run each summer and attract hundreds.

4 Sept, 20:00 @ Palladium, ul. Złota 9 The three day festival will feature workshops, concerts and ‘musical madness’ – their words, not ours. Opening night will see a performance by the band Coma and they’ll be supported by the Bucket Guys

COMEDY

FOOD

Every Sun, 20:00 @ Cafe Niespodzianka, ul. Marszałkowska 7 A theatrical English-language performance group with a focus on improvised comedy. They say: “we’re always looking for talented people to join us on stage.”

5, 12, 19, 26 Sept, 10:00-17:00 @ Klub Medyk, ul. Oczki 1 The Wege Wawa festival will present fresh finds from producers, food stalls, DJ sets and other such entertainment.

The aim is to connect Warsaw’s growing vegetarian population with producers and farmers.

Chopin in the Park

Improv Sunday’s

For info see: improve.pl

RECREATION

One to Watch Fire!

Known for their contemporary, experimental sound, Fire! are redefining the very concept of improvised music…

13 & 14 Sept, Pardon, To Tu, pl. Grzybowski 12/16

Parkrun

Every Sat, 9:00 @ Praga (Park Skaryszewski), Ursynów (park next to Bazantarnia), Żoliborz (Kępa Potocka park), Bródno (Park Bródnowski) Improve your run time by participating in the 5k Parkrun held across three locations each Saturday. Unlike the timed races you get in Warsaw, taking part in this one is free of charge.

Tickets zł. 60 @ eventim.pl

Warsaw Vege Festival

Admission free

CONCERT

The International Fryderyk Chopin Competition for Amateur Pianists

For info see: parkrun.pl

FOOD

For further details, see: konkurs.amator. chopin.pl

Sun, 12:00 @ ul. Wawelska 5 Held each Sunday, weather permitting, this event has tapped into Warsaw’s new mania for ‘doing things together’.

While the whole initiative takes meticulous planning, it’s the fun-loving spontaneity that is the most apparent: this is a place of DJs and deckchairs, food stalls and hammocks.

For further info look for them on Facebook.

Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2015

Warsaw Drum Festival

7-12 Sept @ Chopin University of Music, ul. Tamka 43 For a third time amateur pianists will be given a platform to showcase their talents in a competitive environment.

Piknik Warszawski

4

1st Festival of Baroque Music

CONCERT

Fatboy Slim 10 Sept @ Klub ISKRA, ul. Wawelska 5 Considered as something of a pioneer of the Big Beat genre, Fatboy Slim has enjoyed a string of hits over the years with tunes like Praise You and Right Here, Right Now. A legend on the dance scene, tickets are going to go like hotcakes.

Tickets available @ eventim.pl

CONCERT

God is an Astronaut 17 Sept, 20:00 @ Proxima, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 99A Combining ‘epic melodies of post rock and elements of space rock’ God is an Astronaut offer a uniquely hypnotic sound and live performances that are known as being nothing less than a complete audio visual show. Factoid: There is a City, the You Tube / Warsaw Uprising tribute uses one of their tunes in the background.

Tickets available @ eventim.pl

FESTIVAL

International Festival of Contemporary Music 17-27 Sept @ various locations A variety of locations (including the Królikarnia Sculpture Park, Zachęta, Soho Factory, etc.) will play host to a number of workshops, meetings, debates and performances that will involve all manner of weird and avant garde instruments.

debates as well as concerts from Kayhan Kalhor and Ali Bahrami Fard (Iran), the Kocani Orkestar (Macedonia), and Noura Miny Seymali (Mauretania).

For info, see: festival.warszawa.pl

SPORT

Warsaw Marathon 27 Sept, 9:00 @ Most Poniatowskiego The 37th edition of the Warsaw Marathon follows a 42 kilometer route that takes in many of the city’s highlights: among them Łazienki and the Royal Castle. Beginning at Most

Poniatowskiego, and concluding at the National Stadium, the run is expected to draw over 8,500 participants.

For info, see: pzumaratonwarszawski.com

CONCERT

Enter Shikari 28 Sept, 20:00 @ Proxima, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 99A Pioneers of electronicore, Enter Shikari have been described by Kerrang! as ‘a rare, political voice on the UK rock scene’.

Find them in Poland to promote their latest studio album, The Mindsweep.

Tickets available @ eventim.pl

Visit Żelazowa Wola- THE BIRTHPLACE of Fryderyk Chopin

For info, see: warszawska-jesien.art.pl

CONCERT

Scott Weiland & The Wildabouts 18 Sept, 20:00 @ Proxima, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 99A Formerly of the Stone Temple Pilots and Velvet Revolver, the flamboyant Scott Weiland hits Poland as part of a tour to flog his debut album with The Wildabouts, Blaster.

Tickets available @ eventim.pl

SPORT

ECCO Walkathon 20 Sept @ Agrykola/Park Łazienkowski One of the few days when most of Warsaw goes walking en masse. The charity walk winds through the most scenic parts of Warsaw so get your joggers on because for every kilometer, ECCO donates zł. 4 to charity.

Tickets available @ ECCO stores.

FESTIVAL

Cross Culture Festival 21-27 Sept @ various locations The eleventh edition of this annual festival will promote cultural and musical diversity, and will feature workshops and

Booking information: tel. +48 533 49 39 40 www.ChopinPASS.com

Chopin PASS The Fryderyk Chopin Institute, together with CityInfo, have launched a direct connection between Warsaw and Żelazowa Wola as part of a new project entitled ChopinPASS. This package includes admission to the Fryderyk Chopin Museum in Warsaw and to the birthplace of Fryderyk Chopin in Żelazowa Wola, as well as direct transportation between these two institutions.

Taking the stress out of travel, the ChopinPASS allows fans of the composer to make the journey inside a comfortable 8-person minibus equipped with a mini-library of publications relating to the composer. Additionally, so that the trip proceeds in a pleasant atmosphere, passengers have the opportunity to listen to the compositions of Fryderyk Chopin.

Minibus trips to Żelazowa Wola and back run directly to the Fryderyk Chopin Museum in Warsaw, and are available from Tuesday through till Sunday. On weekdays, the minibus makes one trip daily at 11:00 a.m.; on days when recitals are taking place in Żelazowa Wola, two trips are offered at 10:30 a.m. and at 1:00 p.m.

The Warsaw departure point for these is located at the Palace of Culture and Science (in the parking lot between the Congress Hall and Museum of Technology).

The cost of the ChopinPASS package is zł. 99 and visitors can purchase tickets at the box offices in the Palace of Culture and Science and the Fryderyk Chopin Museum in Warsaw, as well as online at: www.chopinpass.com

www.warsawinsider.pl

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in

What’s hot, what’s not: the faces and stories trending around town POLISH ROBBERIES IN NUMBERS!

18

million złoty (in today’s terms)

Stolen in Poland’s biggest heist (Wołów, 1962)

4,000 złoty

The amount robbed by a priest in 2009 – he was later apprehended

1929

The year a zł. 30 million heist…

… was foiled in Częstochowa. Had it succeeded, it would have been Europe’s biggest robbery

192

Bank robberies

Recorded in 2010 – a national record

LOCAL

ILLUSTRATION BY MARIA MILEŃKO

All Gun Wrong

A Brit who tried holding up a Warsaw bank with a piece of paper and a picture of a gun is facing jail. The hapless 33-year-old walked into a city center bank on Al. Jerozolimskie at 9 a.m. and presented the cashier with a drawing of a gun. He then produced a hand-written note in Polish which said: “This is a robbery. I have gun. Give me money.”

But instead of giving in to the wannabe crook’s demands the cashier reminded him there was a queue and instructed him to sit down. Police spokesman Agnieszka Włodarska said: “The cashier kept her head, told him to rejoin the queue and then called the police.” The man, who police say had only been in Poland for a few hours after arriving from Germany where he had been living for a year, obediently went to the back where he sat with other people waiting to be served. Cops arrived minutes later and arrested him at the scene.

Włodarska said: “At no time did he speak and he did not behave aggressively.” The man, who can’t speak Polish and had used Google to translate his demands, has been charged with attempted robbery and is being held in detention for three months. He has pleaded guilty and now faces up to 12 years behind bars. (EW)

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Bank robberies

Committed by Poland’s most prolific known robber (a university educated farmer)

12

Years in jail

Maximum sentence for armed robbery

4

People killed…

In Poland’s bloodiest bank robbery (Warsaw, 2001)

www.warsawinsider.pl

7

inFront

news

NATIONAL

Ghost Train Found?

A 70-year-old mystery appears to have been cracked after news broke that a Nazi ‘ghost train’ packed with gold had finally been tracked down in the Sowa Mountains. According to local lore, a train laden with priceless booty was seen departing Wrocław – then Breslau – as the Red Army drew closer, only to disappear in the region of Wałbrzych. Rumored to have been 150 meters long, and packed with over 300 tons of gold, it’s believed that the train was hidden in the vast network of secret tunnels constructed in the mountains. Up until now the transport has eluded treasure hunters, causing many historians to speculate that the story was in fact just another fantastical myth. But two explorers claim to have discovered the haul in August, though have so far refused to reveal the exact location until guarantees that they can claim 10% of the horde’s value are met.

ABROAD

Out For Blood

A strike by migrant Poles working in the UK ended as a damp squib after only three turned up to protest outside Westminster.

With their numbers bumped up by a few British agitators from the Socialist Party, the demonstrators found themselves outnumbered by journalists and bemused onlookers. The action had aimed to highlight the importance of the Polish contribution to the UK amid a rising tide of anti-Polish rhetoric. A rival happening on the same day proved more successful, with over 2,000 migrants donating blood to the National Health Service.

WILDLIFE

A badger that found fleeting global fame has passed away after drinking itself to death. Wanda, a female from the coastal town of Rewal, was discovered collapsed after stealing seven beers from a campsite and embarking on a session.

Rescued by a shelter, the story of the rock’n’roll animal quickly went viral. While she had been expected to make a full recovery, her health took a sudden turn for the worse and she died shortly after.

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Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2015

PHOTOGRAPH TOP LEFT ED WIGHT, ALL OTHER SHUTTERSTOCK

Badgered To Death…

inFront

weather

WHAT A SCORCHER!

A huge upper level ridge of high pressure was blamed for the heatwave that swept over Central Eastern Europe in August, and left Poland facing its first cuts to industrial power supplies since the 1980s. With the rivers used to cool the country’s power stations drying-up, authorities moved to curb power production in an effort to prevent a wider calamity. In Warsaw, temperatures soared to 36.6oC – a record for August – while the Wisła fell to an all-time low of 47cm. In the process, the plummeting water level allowed the river to divulge several of its secrets, among them 18th century bottles, a steamboat sunk during the 1944 Uprising, and original benches from Poniatowski Bridge. In the city, with locals advised to slash their energy consumption, residents took to the streets to cool down at the seven ‘water curtains’ installed around town…

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Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2015

PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT

STATS

40.2°C

Highest temperature recorded in Poland (Proskau, now Prószków in 1921)

24°C

Usual August average for Warsaw

37°C

Highest temperature recorded in Warsaw (1951)

inFront

take a street

Taming Tamka

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Everyone talks about Powiśle like it’s the local answer to Brixton. So why does everyone go cold at the mere mention of Tamka? This issue we redress the balance, looking into the crooks and corners of this overlooked street…

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Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2015

inFront

take a street

Antykwariat na Tamce

SHOPPING Antykwariat na Tamce

ul. Tamka 45B How can you not love this second hand store?

Presided over by a super-friendly hippylooking dude, consider this a mine of rare vinyl (Beatles, Hendrix, Sabbath, weird Polish PRL stuff), as well as 15,000 comics and books (inc. plenty of sci-fi and historical interest).

Antymateria

ul. Tamka 33, antymateria.com Tucked around the back of the main street, this bike store specializes in the sale and repair of lightweight bikes – as such, there’s no shortage of satchel-carrying courier types lurking in the corners.

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Holy Rags

ul. Tamka 45B Looking to reload your wardrobe with a cult vintage look? Do it here. The emphasis is on women, but there’s also occasional pieces for gents. Check out their new arrivals on Facebook.

Sneaker pimps extraordinaire, as verified by a Facebook following of over 22,000. Not bad for a tiny shop that only sells trainers. Brands include New Balance, Asics, Saucony, Nike and Onitsuka Tiger.

Check their page for sales news

Mood Scent Bar

WND Toys

ul. Tamka 33, moodscentbar.com A perfumery whose manifesto involves matching the right scent to the appropriate person: doing so means a proper natter with their expert staff. Bestselling brands include Serge Lutens, LM Parfums and Comme des Garcons.

Street Supply ul. Tamka 37, streetsupply.pl

Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2015

ul. Tamka 37, zabawki.wnd.pl The façade leaves no doubt: it’s all about Lego at WND. This store packs in pretty much all the Lego products you’re after – and by God have they raised the ante since you were wearing shorts.

EAT & DRINK Crepe Cafe ul. Dobra 19, crepecafe.pl

Pancakes: the ultimate comfort food. Here they arrive in over 20 variations, including some you’d never dare to dream of: burger, white Kit Kat, etc. Once the initial surprise subsides you realize these are more than shock factor stunts – the quality is spot on.

Fabryka Lodów Tradycyjnych

ul. Tamka 31 The interior is ugly, almost an afterthought, but when it comes to natural ice cream they’ve got it licked.

Well worth a quick stop.

OSiR

ul. Tamka 40, osir-cafe.blogspot.com A self-declared ‘cycle culture cafe’.

That means lots of bike-

related props and cycling propaganda inside a raw and ready hideout that attracts a cool and tranquil crowd sipping alternative beers.

Stor

ul. Tamka 33 Small but perfectly formed, this corner stop has all the clack and clatter of a busy neighborhood café.

Regional beers, Chemex and Aeropress coffee and gluten-free snacks and sandwiches provide plenty of reason to pop by and idle over Kindle.

Tamka 43

ul. Tamka 43, tamka43.pl Ground floor: upmarket cafe serving Chopin fans. Upstairs: a fine dining restaurant in which Rafał Hreczaniuk

Restaurant DomPolski

We invite you to our two locations.pl ul. Francuska 11 Ph. 22 616 2432 ul. Belwederska 18 A Ph. 22 840 5060 francuska@restauracjadompolski.pl belwederska@restauracjadompolski.pl www.restauracjadompolski.pl

inFront

take a street

Chopin Museum ul. Okólnik 1, chopin.museum Stor

Golden Duck

sets the natural flavors of Poland against the culinary know-how of tomorrow. It’s easy to drop serious money here, but you’ll still feel it’s worthwhile.

200th birthday. The aim, apparently, was to show Chopin as a man who lived life to the full, hence the cigars, fast cars, banknotes and bling.

painted on the doorway of No. 45: that’s an original remnant from the building’s fleeting function as a first aid station.

Vege Bistro

Coca Cola Mural

ul. Tamka 36 Pass the sunglasses.

This red horror went up earlier in the year and commemorates 100 years of the iconic Coca Cola bottle. With the Chopin mural on the other side, it’s a coin toss as to which wall is worse.

In front of Tamka 37 One of Warsaw’s enduring legends. That sad little fountain you see honors a princess that was turned into a duck (!). The story is too long for this space, so Google around. Spoiler: it involves gold, a young cobbler and a feel good moral.

Dressing Station

Mermaid

ul. Kopernika 25, vegebistro.pl The clue is in the name.

We dropped in for a vege burger and, using Krowarzywa as the benchmark, were left disappointed by both the quality and the price. Here’s hoping you have better luck.

SIGHTSEEING Chopin Mural

ul. Tamka 37 Covering 300 sq/m, this mural was commissioned as part of the celebrations marking Chopin’s

The 18th century Ostrogski Palace (of course, rebuilt after WWII) has seen it all: over the years it’s served as a police HQ, Napoleonic hospital and a homeless shelter. Now reinvented as the Chopin museum, the setting is the perfect foil for the ultra-modern content.

Naturally, this is not a place to stand still, and as of this year a new exhibition has been added titled Seen / Unseen. Purchased from the private collection of a distant relative of the composer, the exhibition presents some of the tiny everyday items retrieved from Chopin’s last apartment.

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ul. Tamka 45 Tamka’s involvement in the 1944 Warsaw Uprising is communicated via numerous memorials.

But most people miss the red and white cross

Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2015

Golden Duck

By Świętokrzyski Bridge The face of Warsaw’s fish-tailed mascot was modelled on the 23-year-old poet Krystyna Krahelska. She was fatally shot on the

first day of the Uprising.

The mermaid just about made it through the war, albeit with 34 bullet holes visible to this day.

Residential Towers

ul. Tamka 49 & 40 Okay, they’re not attractive, but architecture buffs might appreciate the form of this pair of towers. Built in 1961, they’re inspired by the school of design popular in South America at the time. No. 49, incidentally, was formerly the Journalists’ Housing Co-op.

St. Teresa’s Church

ul. Tamka 4A Not Warsaw’s most magnificent church by any means, but it’s well worth a gander on

a rainy day. Opened in 1938, it kept stubbornly going for services until it’s near complete destruction in 1944 – for proof, check the pictures inside the main entrance. It was finally reopened in 1969.

Świętokrzyski Bridge

Bottom of Tamka Completed in 2000 at a cost of zł. 160 million, Warsaw’s first suspension bridge controversially replaced the 15-year-old Most Syreny.

Unpopular at the start, the 479 meter construction has since grown to become symbolic of modern Warsaw and is a frequent sight on the TV: allegedly it’s the most filmed bridge in PL and has appeared in numerous ads and music vids.

Palace of Culture and Science

Chmiel Cafe k Wido

ielna Chm

kie lims rozo al. Je

Bra cka

za Kruc

Metro Centrum

Zgo da

iat y Ĺšw Now

ZĹ‚ota

OVER 100 BELGIAN BEERS to choose from. The most exclusive collection in Warsaw and the most Belgian way of serving beer.

To accompany our collection of Belgian beer we have a NEW MENU featuring grilled sandwiches, savory pancakes, cheese bruschetta and many other delicious things.

Located on CHMIELNA STREET in the center of Warsaw where lots of exciting things happen at all times of the day.

Chmiel Cafe

ul. Chmielna 27/31, open Sun-Thu 10:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-last guest, chmielcafe.pl

inFront

trends

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Ingredients

50ml light rum 50ml fresh pineapple juice 15ml homemade pomegranate syrup (below) 15ml Luxardo Maraschino liqueur

Method

Add all ingredients into a shaker, fill with ice and shake hard and then double strain into a cocktail glass. Garnish with a slice of pineapple and a Maraschino cherry.

Sips & The City

Bram D. Berthelsen, the resident cocktail king of Karowa 31 takes a look at global trends and the drinks expats – and locals – should be drinking this fall…

USA For a long time the American bar scene has celebrated its pre-Prohibition cocktails, with the main focus traditionally falling on knowledge, technique and prestige: all this in intimate venues with smooth jazz playing from the speakers. Basically, the Americans are known for a ‘serious’ bar scene that’s quality oriented. But more and more casual bars are popping up with louder music, and an eye on ‘fun’ cocktail menus, not to mention speeding-up the service without ever compromising the quality. Drinks-wise, Tiki cocktails are getting a big hype alongside beer and fortified wine beverages.

So the cocktail I’m rustling up to reflect American trends in 2015 is a drink with its roots in the Prohibition era.

Named after the Canadian/American actress of the same name, the Mary Pickford goes well with the new Tiki theme while retaining the look of a true American classic.

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Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2015

inFront

trends

Ingredients

50ml aged rum

50ml coconut water 1 tsp powder sugar 1 cinnamon stick 2 cloves

Method

Add coconut water, sugar and spices to a mug then heat to boil with a blowtorch. Add the rum, light on fire and pour the flaming liquid from one mug to the other.

Serve in a warm tin mug, with the zest of an orange for garnish.

Poland The cocktail door only opened recently in Poland, but now everyone is jumping through head first. Most bars are focusing on personal customer service to educate and get the “new explorers” excited about the industry: that means experimenting with different styles, techniques and perfecting flavors. In fact, so much has happened on the scene in the last few years, it’s hard to put a finger on just what the latest trend is. Everything is pretty new. So for a Warsaw-style cocktail I’ve actually gone for an old American classic called the Blue Blazer and spiced it up a notch to prep you for the upcoming winter. Here’s the Coco Blazer!

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Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2015

2014 Now Serving Draught Grimbergen Home delivery up to 6 km 5 PLN, 6km and more 10 PLN al. Solidarności 129/131, tel. 536 335 333, open daily 12:00 -22:00 More info: www.facebook.com/madraskuchniaindyjska

inFront

trends

UK Like the States, you’ll find every type of cocktail bar in London. But for the past few years the ‘speed bars’ so popular in the UK, with their hip hop and rock music pounding from the speakers, are getting fewer and fewer. More ‘serious’ bars are getting attention, while still using the fun gimmicks the casual bars provide. In a way, you could say that the UK and US are switching styles in that respect. As for trends, this year – like last year – is the big novelty ‘sharing serve’: large ouch-style cocktails served in all manner of fun vessels. Even watering cans! Healthy, low calorie drinks are also very popular at the moment.

Anyway, to represent London I’ve gone for an easy remake of Douglas Ankrah’s, Soho-born modern classic, the Pornstar Martini: the Carbonated Pornstar! It’s perfect for sharing and you can take it anywhere!

Ingredients

50ml vodka 40ml apple juice 20ml homemade vanilla syrup 20ml Passoa 30ml passion fruit 50ml still water 30ml white wine

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Method

Add all ingredients into a soda siphon (or anything else that can carbonate) and fill with Co2 and shake.

Leave for a few minutes then pour the liquid into a bottle and seal. Refrigerate until 6 degrees. Increase the amount by four for ‘sharing size’.

Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2015

BEGINNER’S GUIDE TO WARSAW Clockwise from top left corner: Krowarzywa, part of the new wave of vegetarian venues; the Palace of Culture; National Stadium; riverbank bars; the courtyard shrines of Praga; Neon Museum; Chrum, one of the local fashion stores in Powiśle; 6 Cocktails

ABSOLUTE BEGINNERS Traditionally speaking, September brings with it a fresh catch of ex-pats and assorted new arrivals. But rather than hanging out the Welcome to Warsaw banner we’ve gone one better: compiled a bullet point guide introducing the best of the city…

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Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2015

www.warsawinsider.pl

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BEGINNER’S GUIDE TO WARSAW

FOOD

The New Polish Movement

Polish cuisine is the midst of being reconstructed and rehabilitated. No longer is it a swill of cabbage, lard and things that make you go parp; a growing number of restaurants are exploring new methods and techniques whilst using the country’s rich agricultural tradition to their advantage. Varso Vie, Soul Kitchen Bistro, Solec 44 and Mała Polana Smaków are a good case in point.

Farmers’ Markets

Unless you want to play dodgems with other trollies in the aisle then forget your local supermarket. Farmers’ markets have popped up like toast, allowing visitors to root through muddy veg and seasonal produce that’s fresh from the field. Favorites include Forteca, Bio Bazar and Bazar Olkuska.

Celebrity Chefs

With Hell’s Kitchen-type shows flourishing, chefs have been elevated to some demi-God status. Every restaurant worth its salt is busy promoting its chef as a star, and they’ll sure make you feel bad if you haven’t heard of them.

But the biggest name of all? Wojciech Amaro.

Guardian of Poland’s only Michelin star, his name is considered as a kind of gold standard.

Tasting Menus

Forego a la carte and instead let the chef take you for a spin around the kitchen. A small pack of fine dining restaurants offer multi-course tasting menus allowing diners the chance to scrutinize their skill set. Off the top of our heads: Senses, Salto, Nolita and L’enfant Terrible are four to watch.

Lunch Deals

Eating out does not require elastic pockets.

Nearly every restaurant out there offers a special Monday-Friday lunch deal with cut-price food served in a fast turnaround time. For the undisputed Deal of the Day head to Concept 13 where a five course extravaganza is yours from zł. 50.

Trends

Welcome to lemming city. The moment someone executes a good idea a host of copycats follow: with varying degrees of success. At the start of the millennium that meant sushi and fusion (remember that word?). In recent years burgers, food trucks and artisan this and that have crested, though the most encouraging of all has been the increasing profile of the vegetarian way.

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From top: Michelin rated Wojciech Amaro; the rise of the food trucks continues unabated; Soul Kitchen Bistro.

DRINKS

Craft Beer Bars

sixth sense to discover Weles. Rewards come in the form of beautiful in-house inventions.

Warsaw first escaped the grip of the macrobreweries in 2013, and hasn’t stopped to look back. Multi-tap and smaller ‘quali-tap’ bars are the in-thing, selling increasingly wacky craft beers from home and abroad. The gold rush reaches its apex with the bi-annual Warsaw Beer Festival (next edition: Oct 15-17). In the meantime, check firm favorites such as Kufle, Cześć, Cuda and Chmielarnia.

The little people be damned. Summer found Warsaw’s sexy things drinking in the clouds, namely in rooftop bars such as Level 27 and The View. For a calmer environment that’s less ‘LOOK AT ME’, traditionalists should check the Panorama Bar on the Marriott’s 40th floor.

The Riverfront

The Pavilions

Sky High

So you’ve missed them at their best, but Warsaw’s seasonal riverfront bars will be enjoying one last hurrah before the cold wind blows.

Occupying both banks find a wealth of bars – some set on barges, others right on the beach – that party long into the night: at times, the atmosphere is one of carnival-style chaos.

Step through the narrow passageway on Nowy Świat 22/28 and emerge into a cauldron of carnage. Approximately 20 or so bars await, all set in prefabricated cabins enveloped in a thick coat of murk. True, it’s mainly students here, but everyone has a blast – cut-price and positively riotous at night, they’re a Warsaw rite of passage.

Secret Cocktails

Vodka

Tipping point has been reached. Jaded by second rate efforts, a new style of bar has set about redefining the cocktail. While some are easily located, others call for an investigative nose: step through a secret wall of videos at Karowa 31, ring a buzzer at 6 Cocktails, or just use your

Clockwise from top left corner: Level 27; the pavilions; craft beer at Kufle i Kapsle.

For a clean, premium vodka look for the excellent Vestal label (produced in the north by a former New Zealand war correspondent!): any cocktail bar stocking this is serious. And don’t miss Dom Wódki, or any of the cheaper shot bars such as Pijalnia and Meta. They’re a hoot. www.warsawinsider.pl

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BEGINNER’S GUIDE TO WARSAW

SHOPS

Clockwise from top: Spod Lady; Vitkac department store; Kolo Sunday bazaar.

Malls, etc.

True style mavens flock to Vitkac. Dubbed Poland’s first luxury department store, it’s awash with daring offerings from the biggest names in global fashion. More affordable, just, is Klif, with its healthy spread of off-the-peg designer labels. Finally, the Mysia 3 store caters to a more hipsterish, creative crowd with clothing that reflects this.

Polish Stars

To get a true sense of what Warsaw is about then visit Mokotowska. Lined with tall, pre-war tenements, it’s a reminder of the days when the city was hailed as the Paris of the East. Filled with niche boutiques, it’s where the doyens of the Polish fashion world – such as Maciej Zien and Robert Kupisz – have set up HQ, and their doors see a constant in-out procession of local celebs.

Markets

One man’s junk is another man’s treasure. Ponder that while you pick through the merchandise at Sunday’s Kolo Antique Market: communist vinyl, antiques in different stages of disintegration, creepy war finds and general tat. Others of note:

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the Sunday camera market at Stodoła, Warsaw’s weekend computer market, not to mention the ultra-cool yard sales you’ll see advertised on Facebook (look for Mustache Warsaw).

Local Heroes

Polish design is enjoying a massive resurgence.

For fashion, lifestyle accessories and furniture/ homeware then trawl around the independent stores of Powiśle comes highly recommended.

Arrive with no plan and just hop from store to store. It’s a district that rewards curious minds.

Likewise, take a trip up to Soho Factory to peruse the stores up there: for local art and design put Magazyn Praga at the top of your list.

Souvenirs

For something truly alternative then head to Spod Lady on Chmielna, a subterranean store filled with so-called ost-algia – modern gifts and trinkets designed using communist aesthetics.

For quirky books about Warsaw, a visit to the diminutive Fundacja Bęc Zmiana is also recommended. Those wanting to read-up on the city’s history, meanwhile, should make a beeline for the dusty bookstore at Dom Spotkań z Historią.

SIGHTS The Fab Four

Poland has embraced a new way of viewing the past. Rated as amongst the most technologically advanced in Europe, the museums dedicated to the Warsaw Rising, Chopin and the History of Polish Jews deservedly sit at the top of any itinerary. Back to the future, and the Copernicus Science Center is a brilliant day out.

Missed Me?

Poland’s tallest building, the Palace of Culture, is literally unmissable. Gifted to Poland by Stalin, what was once seen as an unwelcome reminder of paranoid times has seen attitudes soften: if you’re new to town, the top floor viewing platform is almost an obligation! And now there’s more – tours of the secret passages below ground level are now on offer.

Old Gold

Get used to hearing how Warsaw was flattened during the war. The Old Town took a particular bruising, so its UNESCO listed streets can feel a little like an artificial film set – but they remain a must. Learn more about the district’s destruction and subsequent revival at the Heritage Interpretation Center.

Tours With A Twist

From top: the reconstructed Old Town; Polin – the Museum of the History of Polish Jews; Park Miniatury.

Those looking to peel apart Warsaw’s historical layers can jump onto the City Sightseeing bus.

The route runs past all the key sights. But for something different, take a look at Adventure Warsaw. Conducting tours around the town’s alternative sights in militia vans, the schedule includes vodka and chats with local eccentrics.

In The Know

Remember the little guys! There’s several lesserknown museums that demand attention: walk amid glowing old signage at the Neon Museum, experience the world of the blind at the Invisible Exhibition, stop for a nip of vodka at the Museum of Life Under Communism, and see what pre-war Warsaw was like at the Park Miniatury.

The Other Side

Warsaw’s right bank elicits mixed feelings.

The Saska Kępa suburb is one of the most affluent in the city, and its modernist architecture makes for a great Sunday walk. Nearby, book a tour of the National Stadium before heading north to the more decrepit Praga Północ area: its pre-war tenements are a glimpse into a different world and the courtyard shrines a source of fascination (using caution / common sense here is advised).

www.warsawinsider.pl

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Hope Against Hope

It’s a picture that has compelled people for decades: now, the search is on to the girl pictured in one of the classic photos of post-war Warsaw.

BY STUART DOWELL

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W

arsaw, 1946. A young girl, possibly 8 or 9 years old, although after years of wartime deprivation possibly older, stands on top of a building wearing shoes and a blouse that are too big for her. As she looks out across what was formerly the Warsaw Ghetto, her gaze met by an ocean of total devastation, she brushes her windswept hair away from her eyes.

Who was she? What was she thinking as she took in that bleak panorama? What happened to her during the war and after? Is she still alive? These are some of the questions that prompted Patryjcja Jastrzębska from the MASŁAW Mazowsze Appreciation Society to

launch an appeal to find out who the girl was. The search has created a huge amount of interest in many countries and the campaign has involved social media appeals, presentations and a poster campaign around Muranów where the picture was taken.

Just a few days after launching the appeal, someone came forward saying that they knew who the girl was and gave a name and address – in Sydney, Australia. Contact was made and indeed the woman had lived in Muranów, the district where the photo was taken, just after the war.

She was deeply moved by the picture but finally admitted that she couldn’t remember ever posing for a picture on top of a building.

PROFIMEDIA/CORBIS/REGINALD KENNY

POST-WAR MYSTERY

The girl in the photograph in her oversized clothes adds a touching innocence to the horror of the scene...

A short while later, a different person came forward saying that he knew of a woman now living in Pomerania but who used to live in Muranów and who had often mentioned that she walked around in shoes that were too big for her. That lead is currently being followed up.

The photograph was taken by Reginald Kenny, a photographer from the US who in April 1946 was accompanying former US president Herbert Hoover, who was visiting Warsaw to discuss humanitarian assistance. Some inspired sleuthing by local journalist Marek Kossakowski has pinpointed the location of the building on which the girl stood as ul. Stawki 5/7. Erected in 1938, the building originally housed a school but it was used during the war by the SS to organise the deportation of around 300,000 Jews from the Warsaw Ghetto. The building’s location was convenient for the SS as it was opposite the German-created Umschlagplatz, a walled-in square where Jews were processed before being packed into cattle wagons bound for the gas chambers of Treblinka.

The building currently accommodates Warsaw University’s Faculty of Psychology.

The girl in the photograph in her oversized clothes adds a touching innocence to the horror of the scene that she is viewing; creating an image that is not simply one of the thousands of photos showing the scale of Warsaw’s wartime devastation but one that is iconic of that time. The attempts to find out the girl’s identity are valuable and understandable; however, the photograph’s real power comes from the way that is shows how the Ghetto, as Patrycja Jastrzębska says, “was reduced not into ruins but quite literally into a pile of rubble”.

The Building

Stawki 5/7, the building from which the picture was taken, was one of only a handful that survived the razing of the Ghetto. It’s inglorious past is commemorated by way of a stone tablet that reads: “From this command building a branch of the SS oversaw the 1942-1943 deportations from Umschlagplatz from which thousands of inhabitants of the Ghetto were taken each day to the Treblinka death camp.”

After the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising of 19 April to 16 May 1943 in which around 1000 Jewish fighters fought not for their freedom but for death on their own terms, and after the subsequent slaughter or deportation of around 71,000 remaining Ghetto inhabitants, the head of the SS Heinrich Himmler ordered that the Ghetto be completely demolished. In his earlier secret order of 16 February 1943 he stated “…we must achieve the disappearance from sight of the living-space for 500,000 sub-humans that has existed up to now, but could never be suitable for Germans...”

After the Ghetto had been turned into a desert of bricks and stone, the Germans used it as a killing site for Poles held prisoner at the nearby

Pawiak prison. The Ghetto also housed the Gęsiówka concentration camp, in which a small number of Jews were held to recover valuable materials from the rubble and coax out Jews who were hiding. Upon being found they would be shot and the Gęsiówka inmates would have to pile them up and burn them. The conditions were so appalling and the work so gruesome that one small group of Greek Jews sent to work there pleaded with their SS guards to be allowed to go back to Auschwitz.

The organisers of the appeal are still asking for any information about the girl’s identity to be sent to tubylotustalo@gmail.com. www.warsawinsider.pl

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TRAVEL MAZURY/WARMIA

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Northern Light

Using the town of Reszel as its base, the Insider head north to experience the high and lows of Warmia and Mazury‌

BY ALEX WEBBER | PHOTOS BY ED WIGHT

www.warsawinsider.pl

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A

TRAVEL MAZURY/WARMIA lthough the air-conditioning is whacked to max, everyone in the car is shattered and spent. The landscape is parched and blistered and we’ve wilted in sympathy: no-one wants to say it, but there’s an unspoken feeling that embarking on a road trip in the midst of a heatwave hasn’t been clever. Even the car is sweating it – what should have been a three hour drive has turned into five.

As arduous as it might be, I know this journey is worthwhile. I’ve done it before. And soon enough, I know the others will agree. Our target, Reszel, is breathtaking, and as entrances go, this one’s pure magic: crossing a Gothic bridge that arcs over the River Sajna, we pass a neat row of townhouses before coming to a halt in front of the colossal bastion that looms over town. Balanced on a slab of rock, this 14th century fortress – originally intended for the Bishops of Warmia – has for the last couple of decades been serving as a hotel. Peering up at the hulk, we pause to allow the sensation to settle: for the next two nights this beast will be home.

Handed clunky keys that could pass for instruments of the Inquisition, we drag our baggage over the courtyard cobbles before parting separate ways to locate our rooms. Being a castle, this isn’t as easy it sounds, and involves labyrinthine corridors and treacherous stairs. “Really,” my girlfriend asks, “I’m meant to climb up those?” For a moment, I wonder how many at-risk people – the frail, infirm and chronically hungover – might have slipped to their deaths.

But the recompense is ample. Sure, the accommodation has something of a faded Ikea air, but that’s all offset by plenty of trimmings that leave you feeling like Rapunzel: gazing through a narrow slit-window over the valley below, we take stock of the view. I feel like I’m the King.

Back on ground level, my ego still rampant, we meet the others and set-off to explore. Grid-like in layout, the compact Old Town is quickly traversed. Largely rebuilt following a fire in 1806, it’s a pretty little place of red tiled roofs and ivy-clad walls.

Winding downhill, we find ourselves emerging by the iconic bridge. Stood

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on tall, thin legs, its current guise is a throwback to its original mediaeval form. But don’t think it’s always been like this: the mouse hole cavern cut high into the brickwork is a reminder of the years in between when the structure was peppered with tiny cells housing prisoners and the poor.

Following the curl of the river we are led into Park Miejski, a deep ravine interspersed with bouncy footbridges and zig-zagging stairwells that fade into the dusk. With the last streams of sunlight angling through the trees, we finish the walk soaked in the swampy green glow of the dense forest roof.

Picturing a mediaeval banquet we return to the hotel prepared for a feast. But Reszel disappoints. Instead of a whole-roasted hog with an apple in its mouth we instead poke our way through half-heated dogfood and a hideous fish with gleaming yellow eyes. I think of Chernobyl. Yet not all is lost. If not for the food, people boomerang back to this castle for the atmosphere. Over drinks the barman regales us with whispered stories about the zamek’s ghoulish past: turns out, the bar is above the dungeon, and it is there that a local girl called Barbara was held in captivity accused of witchcraft and arson.

Eventually torched to death in 1811, her execution was the last of its kind in Europe, and it’s said her unforgiving specter still roams about. On a nearby wall, scribbled signatures proudly attest to the visit of the Ghosthunters Hunters International

TV crew. It proves a long session, but our delayed departure is repaid by our own private light show – exiting, we find the sky dappled with Perseids and meteor trails; the shower of fire and light is stunning in its scope, a cosmic cascade of tumbling stars and unearthly glimmers. Within minutes I’ve gone from staggering to staggered.

A

fter the celestial pageantry of the night before, the next day has a lot to live up to. Having already chalked off pretty much all Reszel offers, the plan is a series of excursions through which we’ll join the dots that comprise the region’s key attractions. First up, Sztynort, a lakeside village whose normal population of 170 swells with the onset of sailing season. Sure enough, as we approach the lake it’s heavily flecked with sleek white yachts glistening in the sun. With no boat, and no sailing license between us, we present ourselves at the ‘Kapitanat’ building and voice our demands: they being a boat and someone who knows what to do with it. “No probs,” comes the answer, “be here in 30 minutes.”

The break gives us a chance to walk around the derelict Steinort Palace nearby – once the property of the Lehndorff family, the estate was renowned for its collection of Arabic horses and ancient oaks, though is probably more famous for being appropriated by Ribbentrop, the German Foreign Affairs Minister, during the last years of the war. It’s said he

arrived into town accompanied by carriages brimming with vintage wine and antique furniture snatched from the Jews and gentry of Warsaw.

Now, work is underway to repurpose the building as a luxury hotel, with only a memorial boulder reminding visitors of the role the mansion’s rightful owner played in the plot to kill Hitler.

With the sightseeing done, we return to the Kapitanat ready for our nautical adventure. I’m expecting to be pressganged by a salty seadog with tales of giant squids and naval engagements, but instead we’re met by a muscly Tom Cruise with wraparound shades. Despite the broadest pirate accent I can muster, I can sense our Hollywood hero

recognizes us as big city landlubbers, and for the first part of the journey we glide along calmly outpaced by ducks. Then, in the roar of an engine, it’s hold onto your hats as the boat zooms into life. For the next 30 minutes our trip turns into Mission Impossible with lots of high-octane thrills and preposterous turns. As the boat darts across the water, our skipper nimbly maneuvers us between more sedate vessels leaving a trail of spray in our wake. It’s exhilarating, and by the time we’re back on shore my heart is in my mouth.

And there it stays, for the escapades aren’t over. Next is a visit to Park Linowy Leśniewo, which I’ve fooled the photographer into thinking is a lion park. “You’re kidding,” he ex

www.warsawinsider.pl

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TRAVEL MAZURY/WARMIA claims, “so in the middle of Mazuria you’ve got a pride of lions pacing around?” “That’s right,” I confirm, “and you need to be bloody careful – killed a whole family last year.” If only. What we’re about to experience is far more terrifying. Found in an abandoned canal lock, this seasonal line park has breathed life into an installation that once formed part of an ambitious but ultimately unrealized plan to link Mazuria with the Baltic Sea. First initiated in 1911, construction hit a peak between 1934 and 1940, and the creepy imprint of a giant Nazi eagle still decorates the concrete. Accessed via a wobbly rope bridge, the top of the lock is open for those with a serious head for heights.

Its showpiece, though, is a zip-line that takes visitors hurtling over the murky water and into the woodland below. One, two, three – Geronimo!

What follows is ten seconds of adrenaline rush, then five seconds of thinking you’re going slam into the ground and never walk again.

centric design and warm welcome – before we know it the four of us have been joined by a local footballer and his wisecracking dad. Conversation flows, and so too the drinks. Such is the merriment, at one stage the photographer toasts the footballer for being ‘the funniest man in Poland’.

Morning, and checkout does not mean an end. We make the short drive to Wolf ’s Lair, where we clamber over the jagged, smashed remains of Hitler’s Eastern HQ. Moss-clad, and with trees shooting from them, the remnants of these tomb-like bunkers pay epic testament to the

regime’s utter madness. But we end on a high note: escaping the gloom we finish our tour at Mazurolandia down the road. Featuring a couple of goats, inflatable castles and the opportunity to fight your friends with wooden swords, it’s a bizarre theme park that feels fragmented, disorganized and a little bit random. But what fun! And there’s the miniature park, an area showcasing the area’s highlights in their shrunken form. Gosh, I think, there’s still so much to see. Next time, I promise, safe in the knowledge that time will soon come.

I’

m shaking for an hour afterwards, but the quirks of the Mazurian scenery serve-up plenty of distractions: a Dutch-style windmill (for sale, and yours for 2.5 million zeds), a pair of giant bees marking the entrance to the town of Solanka and, as we approach Reszel, the salmon pink splendor of the Święta Lipka church – it’s a feast of Baroque flash and dazzle.

Pulling in pilgrims since the 13th century, the church was borne from one of Poland’s best loved legends: so the story goes, on the eve of his execution, a convict held in Kętrzyn Castle was visited by the Virgin Mary who presented the vagabond with a chunk of linden to carve an effigy of her. The result was so beautiful that the judges interpreted it as a sign from the heavens and freed him – making his way home, the grateful ex-con spotted a linden tree and there hung his carving. Miracles have been occurring ever since, with worshippers first flocking to a modest wooden church built on the site, and later to the intricate complex that you see today. Ourselves, we experience our own miracle back in Reszel. Smarting from yesterday’s dining disaster, we instead choose to convene in Feniks Pizzeria, a place remarkable for its edible food, ec-

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ESSENTIALS

Reszel Castle / Hotel zamek-reszel.com Leśniewo Park Linowy facebook.com/ lesniewo.park.linowy Mazurolandia mazurolandia.pl Wolf’s Lair wolfsschanze.pl Jadwiga Korowaj (Wolf’s Lair guide) jagoda10@poczta.onet.pl

GETTING THERE

One word: car. As in, you’re going to need one. Reszel lies 231 km north of Warsaw, with journey time usually taking three and a half hours – it can be more, can be less. If you’re determined, it is actually possible to get to the nearest big city, Kętrzyn, in just under five hours by train. From there, Reszel is 20 km, with the hotel offering a pick-up service from the station if ordered in advance.

Reszel Warsaw

LISTINGS RESTAURANTS 48 CAFES & WINE BARS 76 NIGHTLIFE 80 SHOPPING 87 FAMILY 90 HEALTH & BEAUTY 95 IN THE CITY 98

Ace in the Hole

Just what Warsaw needs: a place full of everlasting love for the humble donut.

Only here they’re not so humble – inspired by their travels to New York, owners Kamila and Patrycja have filled a hole in the market by creating a cool spot that’s committed to natural ingredients and the artisan process. That means no shortcuts and zero artificial dyes: really, those glistening technicolors you see are down to the use of fresh fruit and dried flowers! Soft and chewy, enjoy dazzling flavors such as mango or hibiscus – you could order one, but will one be enough?

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

MOD ul. Oleandrów 8

www.warsawinsider.pl

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REVIEWS

The Silent Virtuoso

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t’s all about the chef now. On billboards, online, on TV: everywhere I look, there’s a chef staring me down, usually in a bad boy pose as if spoiling for a fight. Warsaw’s fallen in love with cooking, and a side-effect has been the growing worship of the warriors in the kitchen. Great? Not so fast. A number of these chefs are in your newspapers on merit, and it’s only fair enough they’re getting their share of recognition. But the others? You sense they’ve been placed on a totem for no other reason than looking good in their whites. And with so many restaurants promoting their chefs as buccaneering stars with brave, new ideas, you get the idea it’s all something of a sham: a hollow exercise in myth making.

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That’s one end of the scale. On the other you have lads like Wojciech Kilian, a chef who seemingly eschews the limelight: coaxing him out of the kitchen for a snap is just about the hardest assignment the photographer’s ever faced. And that, I find, is immensely reassuring: at last, a chef who doesn’t want to be in a magazine, he just wants to make your dinner – that gets my respect. Not just mine, either: Kilian’s work backstage has caught the eye of not only local diners, but also Michelin who deemed his Signature restaurant worthy of inclusion in this year’s edition of their Main Cities of Europe guide.

What’s the fuss about? Well, before the food, there’s the restaurant itself: beautiful. Those aren’t words you’d usually associate

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

Wojciech Kilian extends his reputation with a stellar performance

with a former Soviet Embassy, but that’s just what it is – think fancy columns, Oswald chairs restored from the 50s, and walls clad with photography from the canon of Milton Greene: no kidding, if ever the restaurant went bust they could just auction the tables off and relaunch as a gallery.

Of course, that’s not going to happen: food-wise, Signature makes a big splash with a seasonally modified menu through which Kilian expresses his considerable talents. Starters are marinated scallops that are creamy, soft and served amid artsy whirls and razor thin-radish; there’s a pan-seared foie gras, with grapefruit preserve and a ‘tree cake’ that’s wholesome and motherly – a Polish-Lithuanian specialty; and the highlight, a goat tartar in a ginger-cucumber sauce.

All three starters are intelligent works of meticulous precision: clever, creative, pretty. It’s with the mains that the real substance arrives. Grass-fed lamb, sourced from the village of Rupin, is presented by Kilian himself, with the chef making a tableside appearance to pour the truffle sauce. It’s an accomplished dish, but the real hero is actually the catfish. Served in a red wine sauce

on a bed of potatoes, it’s an extraordinary combination that’s succeeds in being both light and delicate and yet rolling with complex flavors. How has Kilian done this? More importantly, how is it that for the first time in my life I prefer fish over meat?

Big questions, no answers – but one very happy diner.

Some of my favorite desserts have rolled out of Signature’s kitchen, and this visit the star turn belongs to what the menu identifies as being Jersey cheese and white chocolate cheesecake, with rhubarb and vanilla sauce. It’s gloriously thick and heavy, but again not to the point of overwhelming. It’s the kind of dessert that gets visitors leaning back at the end and allowing themselves a private moment of smug satisfaction. And that’s a sentiment that applies to pretty much all we’ve had – but, I guess, that’s no surprise: it’s simply what happens when you get a talented chef who thinks about diners first, himself second. (AW) Signature

ul. Poznańska 15, signaturerestaurant.pl www.warsawinsider.pl

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REVIEWS

BOTTLE WATCH:

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Great Balls of Fire Warsaw crowns its King of Falafel…

ne thing I love about really good cheap food is that it breaks social and economic class barriers; people of all backgrounds come together as one.

There’s a few milk bars that have the power to do this, and I’ve spotted BMWs outside Bambino on more than one occasion. But there’s only so much soup and schabowy you can eat, so it’s refreshing to find there’s a few ethnic eateries that also hit the mark. Specifically, when I say that I’ve have Falafel Bejrut in mind. Originally born as a food cart outside Hala Mirowska, their new venture steams with the heat of the deep fryer, not to mention all those people squashed-up trying to decipher the menu. Myself, I’m converted to their hummus falafel which comes with jalapenos and a little kick of hot sauce. The secret ingredient here is an extra pinch of cilantro and parsley, which helps this pocket of pleasure come together in a whirr of freshness. If you’re hanging around, order the falafel plate – decorated with gobs of pomegranate seeds – and take a seat on the upturned Fritz Cola crates. Or, do as I do, and use the nearby Saski Gardens as your al fresco dining room. (KD) Falafel Bejrut

ul. Senatorska 40, facebook. com/FalafelBejrutWarsaw

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The Brewery: launched in 2012, Ale Browar were part of the first wave of craft breweries that sparked Poland’s brewolution. Formed by three mates who jacked in the rat race so as to pursue their passion, the trio have become royalty on the domestic brewing circuit. “We live in exciting times,” they say, “so it’s time for exciting beers.”

The Beer: pleasantly hopped, Be Like Mitch marks a triumphant return to form for the lads at Ale Browar. Light, crisp and refreshing, this wheat beer comes with citrusy, tropical notes, and a mild bitter finish: it’s almost as if it was brewed with a heatwave in mind. And full marks for the playful, Baywatch inspired label. In our eyes, the best beer they’ve produced since King Of Hop.

PHOTOGRAPHS ON LEFT KEVIN DEMARIA, TOP RIGHT IAN FERGUSON

Be Like Mitch

Design For Life

A mine of contemporary creativity, Product Placement sets design pieces from established names alongside fresh talent taking its first steps in the outside world; reflecting that, find price points that range from accessible to OMG. If there is a consistent theme, then it’s their loyalty to homegrown designers. Principally dealing with interior items, this dynamic space has achieved must-visit status amongst those looking to trick out their apartment in a style that’s bold, engaging and never dull.

Product Placement

PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

ul. Leszczyńska 12, polishdesignnow.com

www.warsawinsider.pl

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Partner News The latest marketplace news from the Warsaw Insider’s friends and advertisers…

Ice Cool

Catering to an upmarket crowd, Dom Wódki impresses with an interior heavy with glinting vodka bottles and distressed fittings. Surprisingly, this is just about the first upscale vodka bar modern Warsaw has ever seen: given the premium location expect it to rise above mere cult status.

Dom Wódki Pl. Teatralny 1

BOOKS FINAL 2015 FRONT.pdf 1 7.8.2015 16:10:49

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In The Limelight

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Life Is A Cabaret!

Room With A View

From September 3rd the Sofitel Warsaw Victoria will host Limelight, an exhibition that presents the characters that changed the world of art, entertainment and showbiz as seen through the photographic lens of France and Britain’s top photographers. The exhibition will run until the end of October.

The Warsaw branch of Bar & Books has piqued curiosity with its refined air and colonial style.

For a real night to remember, swing by on September 26th for their Night Of Burlesque.

Pre-sale tickets are available for zł. 100.

A new observation deck at Chopin Aiport has been unveiled, with visitors afforded a view of the entire apron and landing area. Over 150 meters long, the deck include disabled access plus five special viewing platforms for kids.

Sofitel Warsaw Victoria ul. Królewska 11

Bar & Books ul. Wąski Dunaj 20

Chopin Airport ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1

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Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2015

Class Act

Any rundown of Warsaw’s ‘dining essentials’ requires a tip of the hat towards Dom Polski; yet while their Saska location is known to all, it’s their new little sister in Mokotów that’s making the news. And what a beauty she is: see in Autumn amid curling pathways and bursting shrubs, or dine inside an interior that conjures images of an aristocrat’s manor. The air of privilege matches a menu that’s rich in fanciful classics such as their signature goose. Elegant and exquisite, consider it your default choice for a taste of true Poland.

Dom Polski ul. Belwederska 18A, restauracjadompolski.pl

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Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2015

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

Pa N rtn ew er s

Left to right: Polish Colada; Alaskan Stop Hard Shake; Whisky Sour

The Big Drink

Varso Vie gives new impetus to Pl. Konstytucji with a knock-out cocktail menu that all can handle…

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here’s one big problem with Varso Vie, and it becomes instantly apparent: to sit outside, and bask in those first shades of autumn, or dive indoors, into a stark space shaped like an upside down T. Should you pick the latter then there’s two anterooms to choose from, both cool and white and decorated with art that’s equally sensual and suggestive. Fine for lunch, fine for dinner, but for drinks?

Nah. For drinks, as everyone knows, nowhere quite beats plotting up at the bar.

And that pits you directly against problem No. 2.

What to choose? In this case, compromise is at hand – can’t work out what to order? try the lot. That’s not the kamikaze idea it might originally sound. The listed cocktails are thin in number (five house recipes, and three hard shakes), making drinking the whole menu not at all far-fetched. But why would you want to slug your way through the menu in the first place? The answer is not as some sort of headlong plunge into masculine one-upmanship, but because it’s a thing of real merit. These are cocktails that are ready to go into the ring with the best in Warsaw… and possibly win.

This shouldn’t come as a surprise. Homemade syrups, seasonal ingredients and high caliber alcohol are all present, but so to the most important component: the staff who can handle them. On this day that means Agata and Johnny, two former baristas who’ve

expanded their oeuvre by learning the dark art of bartending. If slinging cocktails was not their intended career path then you certainly can’t tell.

A Polish Colada arrives first, this bar’s local take on the legendary Pina Colada. Involving Bols Natural Yogurt, Pawlina vodka, pineapple, lemon and a sprinkling of chocolate, it’s a superb drink that does a grand job of rehabilitating a largely derided classic.

Next, a whisky sour. It’s not on the menu, but this reliable old timer is a good way to measure the skills of the staff – yes it’s a simple drink, but how many Warsaw bars get it wrong. Varso Vie sail through the challenge. In fact, they turn something of a pedestrian drink into a revelation. It’s not all serious, either. Fun is supplied by the hard shakes: tall, towering glasses of cream and froth. “I call them a dessert for grownups,” says Johnny. I say, pour me another.

Varso Vie works as a restaurant – that much I already knew. What I couldn’t have guessed was the level to which they’ve also nailed the drinks. This is unexpected. As a rule, restaurants in Poland are no good at cocktails – hell, as a rule, most bars in Poland are no good at cocktails. So for Varso Vie to claim a double is news to be shouted. And very loudly.

Varso Vie Pl. Konstytcuji 2, tel. 22 622 2472, varso-vie.pl www.warsawinsider.pl

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Pa N rtn ew er s TONY’S TIPPLES Lebanon’s size,” says Tony Nasr of Le Cedre, “does limit the wine supply – as a country we just can’t produce enough to meet the needs of both the domestic and foreign market.” Even so, that hasn’t stopped Tony amassing a portfolio of 19 wines: “you’ll actually find a wider offer of Lebanese wine here at Le Cedre,” promises Tony, “than you ever would in any restaurant in Lebanon.”

But that’s just part of the story. “I doubt,” he adds, “you’ll find anywhere in the world with a bigger selection than us.”

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Chateau Musar 1999

The King of Lebanese wine!

Deep and sumptuous, this red is a masterpiece that’s appreciated by all connoisseurs. But it’s vital you let it breathe for 30 minutes or so.

Ideally, I’d pair it with grilled meat – it’s especially good with lamb.

The Grapes of Lebanon

Lebanese wine is once more back in the global spotlight: and it’s Warsaw’s Le Cedre that’s at the front of the revolution!

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eemed to be one of the oldest wine production sites in the world, Lebanon’s wine culture is believed – by some modern scholars – to have taken hold as far back as 7,000 BC. Even so, it remained something of an inside secret until Phoenician traders started shipping it to Greece, Egypt and Rome around 3,000 BC. Apocryphal it might be but Hosea, the Israelite prophet, is said to have once commanded his followers to return to Yahweh so that they would “blossom as the vine, and that their fragrance would be like the wine of Lebanon.”

Which prompts the question, why then, with all this history, does Lebanese wine retain such a modest profile? The answer lies in the region’s complex history. Under the Ottoman Caliphate winemaking was banned, except to meet religious ends, while a French-inspired 20th century revival was disrupted by the civil war. By 1998 Lebanon could list only five domestic wineries.

But recent times have seen a surge in both interest and production: over 40 wineries are now in operation, producing an estimated eight million bottles per year – notably, but not exclusively, in the Beqaa Valley. Even so, with production limited quality Lebanese wine remains a rarity in restaurants.

Le Cedre Al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166 Al. Solidarności 84, tel. 22 618 8999, lecedre.pl

Myst de Chateau Kefraya 2013

Compared to others rosés, this one is a very light pinkish. There’s mild notes of cassis, strawberry and a hint of blackcurrant. Ideal for warmer weather, this is a light, smooth wine that goes well with our set warm or cold appetizer menus.

Domaine des Tourelles 2013

This white has an aromatic bouquet of pineapple, jasmine and honey amongst others. Wellbalanced and with a beautiful finish, it’s perfect for Lebanese mezze: in particular, I’d recommend ordering it with our national dish – taboulleh salad.

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restaurants KEY

NEW & NOTEWORTHY

$ zł. 30 (per main) $$ zł. 30-55 $$$ over zł. 55 New listings are in RED Best of Warsaw Award Winner

GRINGO BAR (ul. Odolańska 15, gringobar.pl) It’s been a summer and a half for Gringo – not content with rolling out a truly badass food truck, they’ve used the August holidays to knock through a wall and add a proper sit-down area to their previously tiny venue down in Mokotów. And it’s not just their footprint that’s grown, but their menu as well. Looks like Warsaw’s best Mexican just got even better…

african american asian balkan & russian british burgers cheap eats cuban french georgian greek & turkish indian international italian japanese & sushi jewish latin & mexican middle eastern polish scandinavian specialty shops steak houses thai

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Insider writers do not accept any form of payment in return for favorable reviews.

CHOILA (ul. Zajączka 25, choila.pl) Perhaps not the most convenient location, but that hasn’t stopped this Żoliborz eatery earning rave reviews from the off. Chef Samika Thapa presents the dishes of Nepal and the Himalayas, with her Mo Mo stuffed dumplings earning particular recognition. Look out as well for the Choila – grilled pieces of pork with onion and coriander in a spicy sauce that’s heavy with pepper and garlic.

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african Abyssinia Rynek Nowego Miasto 2, open 12:00-22:00, www.abyssinia.pl As it transpires, there’s one way of serving the mains, and it’s truly ingenious: on injera, a spongy flatbread that’s used to scoop up the food. Basically, you eat the plate. Brilliant. And yes, the

listings / restaurants Ethiopian choices marvelous: meat and fish dishes served in curry-like sauces with heaps of onions, garlic and ginger. The tastes are strange, alien and immediately addictive. $$ Café Baobab (H4) ul. Francuska 31, tel. 22 617 4057, open 10:00-23:00, www.cafebaobab.pl The work of former basketball player Aziz Seck, Baobab brings the tastes of Senegal to Saska Kępa. The mafe yap – beef stewed in peanut sauce – is as interesting as it sounds, and best enjoyed during their bi-monthly Saturday night concerts. $

american Brooklyn Restaurant & Bar (C4) Al. Jana Pawła II 18 (Rondo ONZ), tel. 22 114 3434 Gone are the fancy pants culinary creations once found in the basement, ousted in favor of a menu of pimped-up soul and street food, salads and steaks. This means fresh tacos – one with hangar steak and the other with battered tilapia – not to mention Mito’s Beef Ribs and 100% beef dogs. The ground floor burger bar is more prosaic, offering a standard line-up of burgers and wings: many swear they’re the best to be found. $$ Champions Sports Bar (D5) Marriott Hotel, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 5119, open 12:00-24:00, www. champions.pl While the concept and style look dated, there’s no faulting the attention

to detail – wherever you look (aside from under the table), there’s a TV. The heavy décor brings to mind the trans-Atlantic sports bars of the 90s, with glinting trophies, whirring machines, clacking pool tables and a cacophony of commentaries. Hell, there’s even a boxing ring. But you can’t fault their consistency: the food is always on-point, the staff are pro, while the generous floor plan makes it suitable for unwieldy groups of large and loud lads. $$ Hard Rock Café (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, open daily 9:00-24:00, www.hardrockcafe. pl Instantly recognizable by the giant neon guitar outside, Hard Rock has a pierced staff of skater boys and rock girls and a menu that is, if nothing else, completely reliable. Peruse rock’n’roll swag that includes Joplin’s blouse, Prince’s guitar and Shakira’s pants. $$ Someplace Else (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6710, open Mon-Thu 12:00-01:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 12:00-24:00, www. someplace-else.pl Favoring a stark concrete look, SPE were once a legend of 90s/00s Warsaw. Things have tamed down since that ex-pat heyday, but this remains a noteworthy choice for live MOR rock and zippy Tex Mex food. $$ Sticky Fingers ul. Marszałkowska 4, tel. 880 763 617, , stickyfingersbbq.pl The menu, that’s printed

on some crinkly brown paper, and starts with breakfast pancakes before taking you past a tidy series of burgers and wings – amongst them an ‘Ultra Hot’ version smothered in Mad Dog sauce. We ordered the roast beef and found it fine. While it might not be the BBQ restaurant that Warsaw’s waiting for, it’s a decent enough addition to theneighborhood. $

asian Cesarski Pałac (D2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 9707, open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 12:30-23:00; Sun 12:30-22:00, www.cesarskipalac.com A rouge tinted Chinese restaurant whose design even incorporates a footbridge. Widely acclaimed, this 18-year-old restaurant combines Sichuan and Cantonese cuisine to serve a variety of dishes in an elegant backdrop. The Dim Sum are something else. $$ China Garden ul. Kazachska 1, tel. 22 241 1010, open daily 12:00-22:00, www.chinagarden.pl Bull’s testicles boiled with soy sprouts. Goose jaws.

Stewed bull’s penis with radish. Ah, these are meals for the brave. Allegedly the first Jiangsu restaurant in Warsaw, the tastes here are indeed unique. The China Garden isn’t the Imperial Palace, but the décor of straightbacked chairs and densely constructed wood tables casts an aura of formality. No lounging about here; serious eating is afoot! On the

ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 97 07 www.cesarski-palac.com.pl At Cesarski Pałac our aim is to showcase authentic Chinese cuisine by using excellent and experienced chefs from China. Established in 1994, our 60-seater restaurant also has an additional 14-seater private room for meetings and functions.

The elegant interiors and excellent cuisine are considered hallmarks of our top class restaurant.

Especially recommended is our Sechuan goulash, beef served from the hot plate and Peking Duck.

Our waiters are happy to ensure that the wine you choose matches the dish.

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listings / restaurants whole the dishes are delicate and delicious, and there are more cautious choices.

Du-Za Mi-Ha (D4) ul. Widok 16, tel. 22 447 2424, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-22:00 A compact Vietnamese joint noted for fresh, healthy nem filled with crunchy, perky fibers.

The pho, on the other hand, is disappointing – according to one reader, “awful”. Prices begin at around zł. 10 and don’t go far north of zł. 20. You get what you pay for. $ Papaya (E4) ul. Foksal 16, tel. 22 826 1199, open 12:00-24:00, www.papaya.waw.pl A place of precise lines and slick finishes, Papaya has a varied menu that uses influences from all over Asia, though particularly Thailand. But the star attraction is Preecha Wongsomboon, a Thai chef who fuses cookery with cabaret from behind a teppanyaki grill – his skills draw gasps. But between the honking horns and nifty knife work it becomes clear this is no novelty show: the food is top notch. $$

Patera (C4) ul. Świętokrzyska 36, tel. 535 333 123, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00; Sun 11:00-23:00, www.patera.com.pl The center pin is a semi-circular bar, above which lamps hang from a ceiling made out of old Coca-Cola crates. There’s palm fronds, mismatching seats, cheerful colors, exposed pipes and industrial chains. Sacks of Haruka rice adorn one end, and on the other there’s floor-to-ceiling windows. It feels right, as does the food – a confident combination of sushi and Thai. We ordered fried beef, and were dealt a generous portion full of pleasing, punchy tastes, sticky rice and a deep, aromatic sauce. Just as good is the green tea ice cream, both cleansing and delicious. $$ Toan Pho (D4) ul. Chmielna 5/7, tel. 888 147 307, open Mon-Fri 9:30-21:30, Sat-Sun 10:00-21:30 Toan Pho’s bowls of soup with rice noodles come highly recommended; as does the

chaos intrinsic to this type of casual Asian eatery. The short menu is in Vietnamese with Polish decoding – although you can ask for an English version. $

balkan & russian Ba Adriatico (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 50/52, open 11:00-23:00, ba-adriatico.pl As a starter, then the grilled peppers stuffed with creamy, regional cheese are irresistible. But then so too the octopus salad. Mains are a victory of simplicity, with dishes like skewered minced beef served with a bitey sauce and a soft, pillowy Lepinja bread. Yet ignore Thursday seafood night at your peril. Croatian-run, this neighborhood spot has an unassuming air that belies the general quality. $$ Banja Luka (E8) ul. Szkolna 2/4, tel. 22 828 1060, open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.banjaluka.pl Lots of clunky timber

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Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2015

listings / restaurants and imported ceramics set the scene at this eatery, a Balkan stalwart that’s known for its economical pricing structure and bulky portions. Grilled meats are prominent and the food largely reliable. $$

Papalina Al. KEN 53, tel. 608 921 404, open Mon-Thu 13:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-22:00, papalina.pl A warm, wood-heavy space with regional cheeses and sausages alongside grilled meats, wine from the Krauthaker vineyard and a particularly good choice of seafood. This is Croatian food cooked exactly as you remember it from holiday. $$ U Madziara (B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 620 1423, open Mon 11:30-20:00; Tue & Wed 11:30-21:00; Thu & Fri 11:30-22:00; Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, www.umadziara.pl U Madziara looks like it took two days to decorate. No-one goes here to marvel at the interiors though, they go in the knowledge that they’ll find great food at prices all bank cards can support. Chef Gabor’s signature goulash is one of life’s simple pleasures. $

british Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640, www. legendsbar.pl It’s a British pub first and foremost, but don’t forego the kitchen either.

The all-day breakfast is a great way to stoke up your drinking powers, while other dishes of note inc. pies, sausages and mash and, of course, fish and chips. $$

burgers Barn Burger (D4) ul. Złota 9. tel. 512 157 567, open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat 13:00-22:00; 13:0021:00, www.barnburger.pl Retaining a loyal crowd ever since their 2012 entry on the burger circuit, Barn Burger offer a loud and lively atmosphere and much celebrated burgers with names such as Heart Attack and Muppet. The list by the door notes the results of their frequent eating competitions. $

Beef’N’Roll (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel. 531 707 070, beefnroll.pl If the wheels have fallen off the burger craze then no-one told Beef’N’Roll.

Originating as a food truck, their success has been such that a fixed venue was required.

Everything about the food and drink suggests quality is the main consideration. $

Original Indian Cuisine

Burger Bar (E10) ul. Puławska 974/80 (enter from Olkuska), tel. 780 094 076, open Tue-Thu 12:0021:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-22:00, burgerbar.waw. pl Warsaw’s first legitimate burger spot was the talk of the town when it first opened up in 2012, only to have its thunder stolen when 100 copycats opened in their trail. But this lot have kept plugging away, sticking to their guns with little song and dance. Intimate and unassuming, it’s for good reason they’ve retained a loyal core of fans – if the words masterpiece can be applied to a burger, then their green chili burger is just that. $ Fuddruckers ul. Górczewska 124 (Wola Park), tel. 22 533 4000, open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00, fuddruckers.com Not ones to keep quiet, the American Fuddruckers chain claim to build ‘the world’s best burger!’ A big claim, but on early evidence they can certainly claim the Warsaw leg of this title. In an added plus, a buffet stand lets you throw as many add-ons (jalapenos, salsa, etc.) onto your food as possible. $ Między Bułkami (D4) Al. Jerozolimskie 23, tel. 22 126 0159, open 11:00-23:00 You want to yell, “stop opening burger joints!” But ‘Between the Buns’ is one of those additions we really don’t mind: there’s nothing original about the menu, nor the presentation, but the quality is a solid 8/10. $ Warburger (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1. Open Mon-Sat 12:0020:00; Sun 12:00-19:00, www.warburger.pl While Warsaw has lost its appetite for burgers, you wouldn’t necessarily tell by popping in WarBurger. Set inside a diminutive cabin, join the scrum for jazzed-up burgers that use slow-food ingredients. If not the best, they’re most certainly up there. $

club

Ziggi Point (B4) ul. Pańska 59, tel. 696 145 735, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-20:00 Diners are summoned to the counter to www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / restaurants collect their order via a buzzer, before settling down to enjoy what has emerged as a real candidate for Warsaw’s best burger. The fiery Desperados is as perfect as a burger gets, and best twinned with a Curiosity Cola from the Fentimans brand. Steaks and wings also available inside a cool diner setup. $

cheap eats Bar Turecki “Efes” (H4) ul. Francuska 1, tel. 22 616 2580, open daily 11:00-21:00. ul. Aleje Niepodleglości 80, tel.

22 898 3001, open daily 11:00-22:00 So it’s a kebab shop, but when the kebabs are this good they’re well worth the listing. Either join the queue outside, or head indoors to sample the smattering of grill food and salads. $ Meat Love (D5) ul. Hoża 62, tel. 500 149 210, open MonThu 10:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-last guest; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.meatlove.pl Not ones to stagnate, Meat Love have expanded in size, meaning there’s now plenty of room to sample their artisan sandwiches – the

roast beef will make your knees tremble. But with this weather, most head to the shaded pavement terrace. Do so as well, and with a craft beer for company. $ Mr. Pancake (E3) ul. Solec 50, tel. 501 237 461, open MonSat 11:00-10:00; Sun 12:00-8:00, www.mrpancake.pl You’re just going to love their pancakes, with their fun, wacky look and creative toppings (M&Ms, funny faces traced with icing sugar, and lots of chocolatey stuff).

They’re the sort of pancakes you’d get if Bart Simpson got stoned and decided to make some food – brilliant. $ Okienko (D7) ul. Polna 22, open Mon-Thu 9:00-22:00; Fri 9:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 13:0020:00 Belgian-style frites served in paper cones right from out of a street-side hatch.

Yes they’re good, but they’re bettered by the sauces that are written up in marker pen on the wall tiles. With money exchanged, do your eating on the upturned crates left on the side of the curb. $

Because Warsaw Just Got Hotter Classic Indian Cuisine With A Funky Twist ul. Zurawia 22, tel. 501 400 386, www.rain.pl

New Polish cuisine is an excellent polish product and inspiration both polish culinary tradition and wide world cuisines.

Kuchnia Funkcjonalna unites together exellent taste and nutritional and functional values of dishes. tel: 521-893-898 adres: Kuchnia Funkcjonalna, ul. Jakubowska 16 www.kuchniafunkcjonalna.pl

Wurst Kiosk (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 17, tel. 606 133 134, open Mon-Fri 11:00-21:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-19:00 Imported German sausages served through a hole-in-a-wall with big dabs of mustard and fresh buns to go with them.

The currywurst is just like the one you had at Berlin Hauptbahnhof. $

cuban El Caribe ul. Mickiewicza 9, tel. 22 400 0994. Open Mon-Thu 12:30-24:00; Fri-Sat 12:30-1:00; Sun 12:30-22:30 Start with a round of daiquiris before ordering frijoles negroes (black beans). But everyone agrees, it’s the flan that gets you doing the cha cha. With the cooking left to a Cuban exile, this perky spot is worth the trip north to Żoliborz. $$

french ArtBistro Stalowa ul. Stalowa 52, tel. 22 618 2732, www. stalowa52.pl, open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:30-22:00 Part of an ‘art hotel’, the distant Stalowa features a narrow dining chamber with vaulted walls, fresh flowers and white formica fittings. It looks good, but

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listings / restaurants on a brighter day the courtyard, strewn with deckchairs and crates, is the place to be. The food is erratic – our vol au vent starter was dry and devoid of taste, while the chocolate ‘cream’ dessert was a runny, ugly looking disappointment. But there is potential: the main was a thing of excellence – duck with a carefully crisped skin, a perfect hint of fat, expertly browned potatoes and a wellexecuted orange and caramel sauce. $$ L’Arc (E8) ul. Puławska 16, tel. 519 000 050, www.larc. pl A place of considered elegance, subtle decorations and monochrome colors. They’re especially noted for their obsessive attitude towards seafood (pick from five types of oysters, or delve into the fish tank for the lobster of your choosing), inventive mains and desserts that are heaven. $$ Le Bistro Rozbrat (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44, tel. 22 881 7808, open 12:00-24:00. The signs suggest that Powiśle is set to mature even further this year, making the transition from hipster haunt to restaurant breeding ground – and here is Exhibit A. Owned by Frenchman Alain Budzyk, the interiors are contemporary casual, with talking points saved for the food. The concise menu has token nods to Spanish cuisine, as well as a steak bavette that’s being raved about on the blogs. $$ Le Victoria Brasserie Moderne (D3) ul. Królewska 11 (Sofitel Warsaw Victoria),

tel. 22 657 8332, open Mon-Sat12:00-24:00, www.sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com The interior of Didier Gomez whispers intimacy, yet it also embraces notions of space and light. The casual elegance that emanates from the design is accented by warm colors, low banquettes and glinting mirrors. Acting as a ballast to it all is an open kitchen, in which you’ll find Executive Chef Maciej Majewski honing his art. His is a menu that fits seamlessly with the surrounds: a fresh, modern look at French cuisine, but one that values clarity and simplicity.

Always leave room for dessert, especially the ‘pear trio’ – delicate and refreshing and with the right hint of sweet. $$

Petit Appetit (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 27, tel. 22 826 44 61, open 8:00-23:00, petitappetit.com.pl A bit of French you say? Step in. There’s an atmosphere here that melts regulars and tourists into one. An easy coexistence that reveals a lot about the very soul of the place: café, hangout, bistro. Small choice but good results. $$

georgian Restauracja Gruzja (D4) ul. Chmielna 5, tel. 729 460 761, open Mon-Sun 12:00-23:00, smakigruzji.pl So good that our Georgian connection claims

it to be every bit as good as back home.

The khachapuri wins big points, but so too the badrijani – eggplant slices rolled and filled with a mix of walnuts and Georgian spices. And then there’s the chinkali, every Georgian’s favorite dough purse of broth and meaty goodness. $

Rusiko (E5) Al. Ujazdowskie 22, tel. 22 629 0628, open Tue-Sun 11:00-23:00 The great location helps, with its nice evening light and people watching opportunities, but it’s the interiors that make it: rugs hanging on the wall, classic tables and contemporary lights. You feel right at home, which I guess is what the owners had in mind from the start. Find them hopping between tables, eating, chatting and going the extra yard. Full of warmth and love for food, this is the Georgia you want to know. $$

greek & turkish Santorini ul. Egipska 7, tel. 22 672 0525, open daily 12:00-23:00, www.kregliccy.pl/santorini/ Santorini looks scuffed and tired but there’s a bonhomie present that instantly engages.

The kitchen attaches no value to things like presentation, preferring instead to simply treat diners to piles of grilled and skewered food that consistently tastes right – and the milfei dessert is magic. $$

• The best quality USDA Black Angus prime beef, Wagyu 9+ Kobe steaks and Scottish prime beef.

• Outstanding seafood menu with oysters, mussels, octopus and calamari and seasonal, traditional Polish dishes.

• The largest selections of global wine in Poland. ul. Merliniego 5 (across from the Warszawianka water park) tel. 22 646 0810/22 646 0849

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listings / restaurants Sofra (C6) ul. Wilcza 71, tel. 731 847 731, open MonThu 10:00-23:00; Fri & Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-22:00 On the design front it’s almost a straight plagiary of Charlotte: white brickwork, blackboard and communal table.

So the surprise here is the food – Turkish.

And not just any Turkish, but brilliant Turkish!

It’s nothing fancy, but there’s a real honest quality to the moussaka and lamb and beef in tomato sauce. The desserts are a real spoiler as well. $

indian Bollywood Lounge (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, tel. 22 827 0283, open Sun-Thu 12:00-3:00; Fri 12:00-6:00; Sat 14:00-6:00, bollywoodlounge.pl Known for their raucous dusk-till-dawn parties, there is another less hedonistic roll filled by Bollywood: that of a restaurant. The menu is an uncomplicated, classic affair that’s an ideal primer for the party ahead. $$ Bombaj Masala (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 606 688 777 One of the best looking Indian restaurants in Warsaw, but the food rarely pokes above average. For a cuisine that prides itself on rich, intense tastes, Bombaj gets remembered for bland, oily dishes that only sometimes get finished. Yet business remains brisk, thanks in part to a combination of location and general culinary ignorance. $$

Buddha (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 23, tel. 22 826 3501, open Sun-Thu 11:0023:00; Fri&Sat 11:00-24:00, www.buddha.info.pl The days of the Raj are recreated in Buddha, a finelooking curry house with intricate interiors and top-drawer curries. The murgh masala jhodphur is a favorite of ours though the real plus here is the consistency: it’s always a solid bet. $ Curry House ul. Żeromskiego 81, tel. 508 870 774 & al.

Ken 47, tel. 22 213 0689, open daily 11:0022:00, curryhouse.com.pl A primitive design (port-a-loo toilet, barred windows) and far-flung location have not hindered Curry House one bit. It’s a legend, not least for their vindaloo – a macho dish that provokes spontaneous combustion. Be warned: no beer. $ Madras (B3) Al. Solidarnosci 129/131, tel. 536 335 333, open 11:00-22:00 Even before you enter, you smell Madras: a pungent aroma that wafts gloriously over gloomy Solidarnośći. Looking humble, unassuming, and even a little seedy, this microscopic venue is as far removed from refined as it gets. For all that, those who love Indian food refuse to go anywhere else for their curry – full of intense flavors and bold spicing, the vindaloo is a near death experience: even your hair feels like it’s on

ul. Nowy Świat 36 tel. 731 001 002 beefnroll.pl facebook.com/beefnroll.burgers

BEST BURGERS /WINGS /HOT-DOGS

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fire. As the burning euphoria subsides, you’re left basking in that blissful glow all hotheads will know. Now serving Grimbergen beer! $ Mr India Al. KEN 47, tel. 22 213 0689, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www. mrindia.pl Split on two levels the design is contemporary if a little characterless: leather banquettes that leave a sweaty bum print and wood paneling. No problem though, if it looks bland then the food isn’t. That means an incredible butter chicken that’s deep and immensely satisfying. Then there’s the vindaloo – could be hotter for some, but good enough for most. $$ Rain by India Curry (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 438 9350, open Mon-Sun 12:00-23:00, www.rain.pl Fresh, contemporary interiors impart a chic, classy look, while the shaded courtyard garden is one of the best about town. The real credit for Rain’s resuscitation though belongs to the kitchen: our curry expert rates the starters as the best he’s had in any Indian restaurant.

And the mains continue the form with a magnificent lamb tikka masala. The tiffin lunch deals are outstanding as well. $$ Tandoor (D7) ul. Marszałkowska 21/25, tel. 22 825 2375, open 12:00-22:30, www.tandoor.com. pl After nearly 20 years at the helm, owner Charanjit Walia has sold up and moved on, leaving a spiritual hole in his life-defining work. His parting shot has been a re-haul which has seen not just the interior modernized, but the menu – start with the pea and basil soup before moving onto the chicken tamarind or the chicken sholay kebab.

Coated in absinth, it’s set aflame at the table.

Traditionalists will also approve: the ‘classic’ menu features a formidable butter chicken tikka masala. After a couple of years in the doldrums, Tandoor is back with a bang. $$

international Aioli Inspired by Mini (D6) pl. Konstytucji 5, open 9:00-24:00, aioliinspiredbymini.pl Fans of the original we might be, but this latest venture brings to mind one of those anonymously formulaic Times Square eateries where tourists convene for the ‘fake’ New York experience. There are moments when the scrum at the bar threatens to spill into blood sport, while the

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listings / restaurants despondent staff only make matters worse.

You’d think the Pilsner beer tanks would serve as a point of redemption, but here foul glasses make what should be Warsaw’s freshest beer into the capital’s worst. $$ Ale Wino ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 628 3830, open Mon 17:00-24:00; Tue-Sat 12:00-24:00, alewino.pl Dip through an archway to discover Ale Wino, a beautiful wine bar whose menu has been well tailored to the season.

Tweaked for summer is the pork belly, a Złotnicka pig adorned with apple sugar snap peas and celery mousse – gorgeous. As for the wine, put your faith in the sommelier, Oliver.

A Nóż (D9) ul. Różana 30, tel. 608 386 388, open daily 9:00-23:00, www.anoz.pl ‘A Jack of all trades, master of none,’ you might think. You’d be wrong. Burgers, pastas, Asian-inspired salads, and pizzas are represented, and while some dishes require fine-tuning, the

ul. Złota 11 tel. 668 016 964 cafeloft.pl

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overall impression is positive. Paired with a cool, typically Warsaw interior (white, white, white), the owners have a real success story on their hands. $ A nuż widelec (E3) ul. Dobra 14/16, tel. 507 367 520, open 12:00-22:00 So snug is A nuż widelec, the feeling is of being round at a friend’s house.

The food is nothing fancy, but fresh and made with love – and it feels even better while the owner potters about, chatting with his guests and watering the flowers in the knockout garden. Such is the atmosphere, you want to call it home. $$ Artkitchen ul. Domaniewska 34A, open Mon-Fri 8:30-22:00, artkitchen.pl Buried deep in the office blocks of white collar Mokotów Artkitchen hope to attract more than just the lunch break crowd with a busy jazz program overseen by musician Grzegorz Piotrowski.

The modern international menu is composed

by Michał Bassa, a man who appears to like

foie gras: find it in burgers, ice cream and other combinations. $$ Baltazar by Mondovino (D5) ul. Krucza 24/26, tel. 516 817 855, open 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, baltazar. warszawa.pl Filled with big red colors and battleship greys, there’s a nice feeling of improvisation to Baltazar, and an undercurrent of individuality emphasized by a 1950s wall painting that’s the venue’s statement piece and ballast. The cooking is the work of twins Kuba and Michał (“one person in two bodies” laughs the owner), and is a brilliant work of deconstructed simplicity: delicate rabbit and thyme ravioli, big caveman-style steaks, and pork belly served with a blob of foam and an arc of liquefied apple. And all hail the desserts, in particular, the silky crème caramel. $$ Bibenda (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 10, tel. 502 770 303, open Tue-Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, bibenda.pl If it’s informal dining you want,

Loft’s unique atmosphere is helped by its position on ul. Złota, a historic street now presented in modern form – it’s here you’ll find our oasis from the usual restaurants.

Our restaurant’s philosophy is founded on the words of Salvador Dali: ‘You might not eat everything, but you should never eat badly’.

Our menu presents creative global flavors and yet is underlined by its strong Polish accents. The chef, meanwhile, introduces principles of physics to the kitchen, which is why you’ll find strawberry snow, dusts, kale chips with caviar, smoked strawberries and fruit foam all on our menu.

Additionally, our daily lunch deals (Mon-Fri noon till 4 p.m.) are available for just 19.90zł. Join us in our two floor restaurant, or on our seasonal terrace.

Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2015

listings / restaurants then Bibenda nails it: here the warm design incorporates a popular bar area filled with a young, chattery crowd. The seasonal menu makes use of market vegetables and farmyard produce, and is built on pillars of quality and simplicity. $$ Bierhalle al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), Nowy Świat 64, Marszałkowska 55/73, bierhalle.pl Beer and food: a match made in heaven.

Accompany your frothing stein of lager with traditional beery bites like sausages, schnitzel and pork knuckle. The menu is German / Polish slanted, but with a few international accents. $$

Boathouse ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 389a, tel. 22 616 3223, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00- 18:00, www.boathouse.pl The name gives it away, doesn’t it? Situated in what is indeed a former boathouse, this venerable institution comes into its element each summer when Warsaw goes riverside to dine at this restaurant. Even out of season, the Mediterranean standards have stood the test of time and keep this venue busy. $$ Brasserie Warszawska (E5) ul. Górnośląska 24, tel. 22 628 9423, open Mon 12:00-22:00; Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-20:00, www.brasseriewarszawska.pl Looking for classic cuisine with no daft flights of fancy? Here you have it. At a time when everyone wants to be Ferran Adrià, Brasserie has both a menu and interior that you can understand: pan-fried foie gras; elegant beef Rossini; and sinful apple tarte tatin, all served inside posh interiors of zinc-plated mirrors and chessboard floors. Their Michelin Bib Gourmand is a source of pride, but it’s the number of repeat clients that are the ultimate paean to the skills of chef Mateusz Wichrowski. $$$ Bubbles (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 512 540 913, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-18:00, bubbles.com.pl Occupying a small, square room, it’s intimate and relaxed: a place busy with blackboards and bottles, crates and clutter. It radiates warmth and honesty. The food is exquisite, and includes big, meaty snails farmed in Mazury, and their signature dish: Swiss-style raclette.

Presented on a wooden chopping board, this cheese dish is classic melty goodness, and served alongside a pile of potatoes, onions marinated with caramel and candied pumpkin. Considering the place doubles as a champagne bar the prices are remarkably moderate. $$ Concept 13 (D4) ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7373, open Mon-Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 11:00-16:00 You’d expect a rooftop meal at Poland’s ultimate luxury department store to cost the earth, but that’s not the case. The zł. 50 lunch deal allows Joe Public to enjoy the considerable skills of Dariusz Barański. That he manages to create different pieces of art each and every afternoon is a testament to his talent – fellow chefs and foodies privately talk of him as a Michelin star in the making. $$$

Where friends meet friends for good times and more.

Der Elefant (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, tel. 22 890 0010, open 12:00-24:00, www.derelefant.com This leviathan restaurant unravels in a maze of wrought iron and monochrome tiles. The menu looks like it was devised by throwing darts at a cookbook (Mediterranean mezze, Tom Yum soup, burgers, pierogi, etc.), but if the focus is blurry then the quality isn’t. While some of the dishes are strictly middling, the Alaskan crab claws are excellent while the filet mignon (zł. 59) one of the best meat deals in town – and it’s even better when ordered with their own-made BBQ sauce. $$ Dom ul. Mierosławskiego 12, tel. 509 165 712, open Tue-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:0022:00 The simple name implies exactly what it is: a restaurant in a house. Set in a pre-war home complete with a lawn and garden, this little secret isn’t all that secret. When the Insider visited it was packed, prompting staff to make some adjustments and put together a table. We’re glad they did. Their menu changes frequently, and on our visit included homemade focaccia, beef risotto and gravlax with lime foam on top of a mini-pancake. You won’t want to leave. $$

Dwie Trzecie (D5) ul. Wilcza 50/52, tel. 605 589 588, open 12:00-24:00 Undeterred by the departure of chef Marcin Jabłonkski, the new guy in the

ul. Wilcza 58A znajomiznajomych.waw.pl

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listings / restaurants kitchen, Grzegorz Nowakowski, has stamped his own mark with a seasonal menu that’s high on creativity: on our visit that meant guinea fowl accompanied with splotches of emulsion and smears of coffee puree.

Pleasingly, you get the idea that it’ll work in all seasons: raw enough for summer, yet intimate for winter. $$

Ratkowski, there’s plenty of fireworks over the course of a vibrant menu that sources its produce from regional eco farms: meat from within a 26 kilometer radius of Warsaw, dairy produce from Mazury and fish from Pomerania. The rump of lamb is a class act, and bettered only by the pear and thyme tart for dessert. $$

Grand Kredens Al. Jerozolimskie 111, tel. 22 629 8008, open Mon-Fri 10:00-1:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-1:00, kredens.com.pl This mighty veteran continues to draw a steady custom on account of a wide-reaching menu that aims to keep everyone happy – and it usually does. The design is surreal to say the least, and is laid out in such a way as to always guarantee a lively atmosphere. $$

Kaskrut (D6) ul. Poznańska 5, tel. 22 622 5438, Open Tue-Fri 17:00-last guest, Sat-Sun 13:00-last guest , www.facebook.com/dwichlab This haunt has a high communal seating plan and hip, buzzy foodie crowd: fit in by taking pics of the food. The exciting menu is a temporary work that changes every two weeks. The place is known for its trial-anderror attitude: combinations that don’t work get binned before making a public debut.

Those that make it through the qualifiers end up on the board. Servings are artistic, excellent and heavily influenced by French and North African cuisine, and new chef Piotr Ceranowicz already looks like he’s adapted well to Kaskrut’s high standards. $$

Krucza 8 i Pól (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 10 (enter from Krucza), tel.

784 461 397, open 11:00-23:00 Looking sparse and fashionable one expects Eight and a Half to be on-trend food-wise. No such luck. Fundamentally the food is fine, with quality ingredients cooked with technical competence. Yet while there are hints of skill in the kitchen, there’s little evidence of creativity, passion or invention: imagine the sort of modern European food you’d find in a generic five star hotel. $$

Kitchen (D4) ul. Widok 8, tel. 22 464 8284, open Mon-Thu 10:00-23:00; -Fri 10:00-1:00; Sat 12:001:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.burgerkitchen. pl It’s the wings that do it. Double fried they

La Maison (B3) ul. Chłodna 15, tel. 22 652 3660, open 8:00-23:00, lamaison.pl Everything here feels considered, from a wine list handpicked by importer Frank Telling, right down to the desserts, prepared by award-winning French pastry chef Michel Willaume – and my, what desserts. Backing the little details up is a menu of note: fish are a particular

Grill & Co (B9) ul. Żaryna 2B (Milllennium Park, Building C), tel. 22 646 0045, open Mon-Fri 7:30-23:00; Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www. grill-co.com Featuring plexiglass seats and clean, dark woods this place could easily be mistaken as one of the trend dens on Mazowiecka. A top (m)eatery, the filet mignon is perfect, and served with generous sides.

Prices, too, are pleasingly moderate. $$ InFormal Kitchen Pl. Małachowskiego 2 (enter from Traugutta), tel. 531 918 534, open 8:30-23:00; Fri 8:3024:00; Sat 9:00-24:00; Sun 9:00-23:00, informalkitchen.pl Headed by chef Dariusz

are and smothered in a plum BBQ sauce.

Eating them is sticky business, but the taste is sensational: just about the most joyous thing you can eat without the use of a fork.

After a six month flirtation with upscale dining, Kitchen have done a U-turn and returned to their roots – the results aren’t so much a kitchen revolution, rather a kitchen revelation. The ‘comfort food’ menu is a hit parade of meatballs, burgers, and other such creations made using the best natural, BEST WAWA 2014 local ingredients.

“Reinvention”

Our atmospheric restaurant specializes in seafood, presented and prepared using our unique methods. The tastes ensure that it’s regulars and returnees that make up the core of our custom: join them!

15% discount with this issue, and a free glass wine with your main course!

Papalina Al. KEN 53, tel. 608 921 404, www.papalina.pl

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listings / restaurants forte. All this in a casual background that features some whimsical Alice in Wonderland touches: patchwork armchairs, pinkish booths and hanging teapot-shaped lights. $$ La Rotisserie (C1) ul. Kościelna 12 (Le Régina Hotel), tel. 22 531 6070, open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, 12:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 7:00-11:00,12:0023:00, www.leregina.com Truly, one of the standout dining rooms of Poland. Many have commented on the Michelin quality of chef Paweł Oszczyk’s restaurant, and you may consider the lack of a star one of the puzzles of the modern world. The cooking is ‘classic with a twist’, and is built for superlatives: the slow-roasted rack of Welsh lamb was one of our highlights of 2013.

Find Oszczyk ably supported by Andrzej Strzelczyk, Poland’s top ranked sommelier, and wonderfully charismatic staff. $$$ L’enfant Terrible (D8) ul. Sandomierska 13 (enter from Rejtana), tel. 22 119 5705, open Mon 18:00-22:00; Tue-Fri 12:30-15:30, 18:00-22:00; Sat 15:00-22:00, www.eterrible.pl What a first year for L’enfant Terrible: opened at the end of summer, they’d already done enough by October to win Gazeta Wyborcza’s coveted Knajpy Roku award. And no-one deserves it more than Chef Michał Bryś, an innovative chef who leaves diners beaming. Pitting local produce against modern techniques the tasting menu (five courses: zł. 170) is sensational: the duck hearts will live long

in this Insider’s memory. With all the hype you expect it to be a little up its arse, but it’s anything but: the design is smart but non-threatening, and the front of house staff are due plenty of credit. $$$ BEST WAWA 2014 “Newcomer”

Loft (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel.

668 016 964, open Mon-Fri 10:00-23:00; Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 11:00-22:00, cafeloft. pl Entering Loft isn’t far removed from stepping inside a pop art painting: lots of vibrant colors and weird lights inside strings of bubbles. A bi-level venture, the best spot to enjoy the menu is on the upstairs terrace, a sunny place befitting of options with names like Ding Dong Soup and Embarrassed Chicken. $$ Lokal 14 (D3) ul. Świętokrzyska 14, tel. 22 827 5480, open Mon-Sat 8:30-24:00; Sun 10:00-22:00 Having served his apprenticeship at Tamka 43, you’re right to expect good things from upcoming chef Filip Kosiń. He doesn’t disappoint with his artful menu of modern European “author’s cuisine”. Topping his skills off is a pleasing environment that’s big on light, wood and metalwork. Getting used to being more than a construction site, the opening of Lokal 14 is positive news for this stretch of Świętokrzyska. $$

Między Ustami (E5) ul. Mokotowska 33/35, tel. 530 323 325, open Sun-Mon 10:00-23:00; Tue-Thu 8:00-24:00; Fri 8:00-3:00; Sat 10:00-3:00 The design joins elements of classic Prague bordello against a London Soho bar, while the international menu features a decent steak nicely enhanced by a silky drizzle of demi-glace. You get the idea both the cooking and artisan cocktails need a little fine-tuning, but fundamentally this newbie is looking in the right direction – certainly one to keep a watch for. $$ Momu.Gastrobar (D2) ul. Wierzbowa 11, tel. 506 100 001, open Sun-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00, www.momu.pl Tapas-style portions of experimental-looking food arrives in little glass jars (meat and fish skewers, Eton mess), or else on paper plates a la the jalapeno hot dog. Pay zł. 40 for a choice of six itsy pots served in a wire-framed basket.

A new concept for Warsaw, it’s been a case of so far so good for Momu. $

Nolita (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel.

22 292 0424, Nolita open Mon-Fri 12.00-15.00 (lunch), 18.00-22.30 (dinner); Sat 13.00-23.00, www.nolita.pl The deluxe dining scene is filling out in Warsaw, and there’s now a few restaurants that can present an equitable claim for the No. 1

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listings / restaurants spot. However, it’s Nolita that perch at the top, with a menu that sees largely classical recipes through a sharp, modern prism – chef Jacek Grochowina has created a place that’s coherent and understandable without sacrificing values of innovation. Looking chic and high end, the tastes and sensations in this restaurant are thrilling: diners are left speechless by the tuna tartar, while the aged beef fillet is an Insider mainstay. $$$ BEST BEST WAWA 2014 WAWA 2014 “Chef” “Fine Dining”

9:00-24:00, nowaprozna.pl Amazing to think that a few years ago this street looked like it was about to fall down. With Próżna’s restoration nearly complete, along comes the task of filling its ground floor units – consider this venture a successful pacesetter. Founded by the owners of the recently closed R20, the European menu here is a work of flair and modernity. Like the food, the slick white interiors feel just right. $$

Nowa Kuźnia ul. Kostki Potockiego 24, tel. 794 126 019, open 12:00-last guest, www.nowakuznia.pl A mere step from Wilanów’s 18th century church, this onetime blacksmith passes muster for excellent steaks and fresh salads practically plucked from a garden. In season, the summer terrace is magical, and the place even touts a faux beach complete with diggers and slides for the kids. $$

Oliva (D4) ul. Ordynacka 10/12, tel. 501 497 410, open 12:00-23:00, www. restauracjaoliva.pl The spirit of the Mediterranean hangs over Oliva, a place where a milk color palette is matched against potted herbs and soft wooden touches. The menu has riffs of Italy, Spain and Greece, with particular pride attached to their gourmet olive oils. At times the cooking of Łukasz Żuchowski has been described as ‘inspirational’ and his talents

Nowa Próżna ul. Próżna 10, open 7:30-24:00; Sat-Sun

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come paired with a wine list selected by Marek Kondrat – an actor / wine merchant with an immense reputation. $$ Platter by Karol Okrasa (C4) InterContinental Hotel, ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8734 or 22 328 8730, open Mon-Fri 12:00-16:00, Sat-Sun 17:30-23:00, www.platter.pl The hotel has roped in celebrity chef Karol Okrasa to head their revamped dining room. As a temple of nouveau Polish, the new layout isn’t a dramatic change from the previous occupant, but the food is faultless. In particular, the herb garden salad with prawns comes immaculately groomed.

An already excellent experience has been raised to talking point level. $$$ Po Prostu Zachęta (D3) pl. Małachowskiego 3, tel. 22 556 96 77, open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-20:00, www.poprostuzacheta. pl Sophisticated yet cozy, Darek Ryniec’s restaurant is set on the lower level of the Zachęta, and despite the grand vaulted ceiling offers substantial privacy with tables

listings / restaurants nestled beside major columns. The set lunch menu emphasizes Polish, while offering a main menu that’s definitely trendy European: the dishes will be licked clean. $$ Północ Poludnie ul. Bagatela 10, open 12:00-last guest Besides the food being colorful and inventive there is a restaurant concept that works here.

It has a visible kitchen, which at times is a little noisy, a beautifully designed interior, not to mention an attentive wait staff that are familiar with what they serve. The sliders are worth exploration: they don’t just consist of beef, but also salmon, egg and chicken. $$ Porkownia ul. Piękna 20, tel. 22 627 4151, open Mon-Fri 11:00-23:00; Sat 12:00-23:00, porkownia.pl Here’s a Warsaw first: a restaurant focused on celebrating the humble pig. Suspicions that Porkownia may lack something in the sophistication department don’t bear fruit – sprouting from the ashes of Jazz Bistro Piękna, the surrounds are chic and modern, not the blood-spattered butcher’s

backroom you might otherwise expect. The food is similarly well-presented and scores highly for such dishes as apple/bacon and boar/artichoke/marmite. Showing plenty of creativity, here’s a kitchen that reinvents the pig! $$

about when that view comes from a candle-lit reconstructed castle… Endlessly romantic, this artistic eatery comes with a light look and a creative menu honed by Marta Gessler. $$

Punta Prima ul. Obrzeżna 1B, tel. 22 406 0886, open 11:00-22:00, puntaprima.com.pl There’s something immediately fetching about Punta Prima, a place that announces itself grandly with its deep wood panels and embroidered armchairs. For food, choose from a varied menu that draws on largely Mediterranean influences. Try the bream with herbs baked in sea salt. $$

Renoma (E3) ul. Lipowa 7A, tel. 22 692 7239, open Mon-Fri 8:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-22:00, bistrorenoma.pl Here’s a venue that suits all purposes at all times of day. Most of all, it’s a place that feels positive, a place where heart and mind work seamlessly together: that means breakfast to evening options – many of them gluten-free – including fab lunch deals and 60-day aged steaks. Great for afternoon ‘me time’ or a dinner date with a beautiful stranger, Renoma’s intimate style and soothingly simple interiors work with the personalized approach. $$

Qchnia Artystyczna (E6) Zamek Ujazdowski, Al. Jazdów 2, tel. 22 625 7627, open daily 12:00-22:00, www. qchnia.pl Even on a cold, ashen day, can you question a view that spills down onto a canal and park way down below? And how

Restauracja 99 (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 22 620 1999, open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.restaurant99.com Sporting a futuristic look, 99 is an enduring veteran of the CBD circuit. No longer the top dog

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listings / restaurants for business wining / dining, it nonetheless remains a very safe choice for perfect steaks and loaded margaritas. $$

Salto (D5) ul. Wilcza 73 (enter from Emilii Plater), tel.

22 584 8771, www.saltorestauracja.pl For those who think Argentine chef Martin Gimenez-Castro is just about steak, then they haven’t been to Salto. The tasting menu is the best way to view his full oeuvre, and on our visit included ceviche with Portuguese corvina; a dainty tranche of cavala mackerel; and Porcini ice cream served in the shape of a mushroom. It’s a brilliant demonstration of the chef’s passion and personality, but most of all, it’s just bloody brilliant. $$$ Secado (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 66, tel. 608 707 799, open Mon-Fri 10:00-23:00; Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-23:00 Casual, intimate interiors complement a menu that’s expanded from its original Latin leanings. Everything we’ve tried here has been culinary gold, and that includes the surf & turf, tortillas and roast beef. $$ Senses (C2) ul. Bielańska 12, tel. 22 331 9697, open Mon-Fri 17:30-22:00; Sat 17:30-22:00, www.sensesrestaurant.pl The entrance alone is a thing of fancy and accessed through a

long open-air corridor, one side flanked by the office block, the other by bullet grazed brickwork. Flickering flames dance on either side, the tall walls disappearing into the night sky above. Recommended is the six course tasting menu (zł. 230), which on our visit included eel, smoked at the table, duck with onion chutney and pepper mousse and swordfish served amid billowing ‘sea essence’. Comparisons to Atelier Amaro are inevitable, and speak volumes for the innovation and talents of chef Andrea Camastra. $$$ BEST WAWA 2014 “Foreign Chef” Signature (D5) ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 55 38755, open 12:00-23:00, www.signaturerestaurant.pl ‘Kilian who?’ people asked when Wojciech Kilian was installed as head chef. But this young talent has had the last laugh: set to be Poland’s next big chef, his cooking is extraordinary and presents true fine dining at bargain prices. Kilian’s cause is complimented by a beautiful design described by one reader as a ‘Monegasque state of mind’. Think: friezes and reliefs dated from the time this was the Soviet Embassy, lavish 1950s Oswald chairs, lighting by Serge Mouille and original Marilyn photos shot by the acclaimed Milton Greene. You feel a millionaire just being here. $$ Solec 44 (F4) ul. Solec 44, tel. 798 363 996, open Tue-Sun 12:00-last guest; Mon 16:00-last guest,

www.solec.waw.pl Chef Aleksander Baron is one of the big characters on Warsaw’s foodie circuit, and his love of nose-to-tail food always ensures surprises on the daily changing menu. Using fresh, seasonally appropriate ingredients, this is one of the best alternate dining experiences around: and yeah, it doesn’t really look like a restaurant. Diners order at the counter before sitting down in a spontaneous looking, cut-price interior that clacks and clatters to the sound of grown-ups playing board games. We’re huge fans. $$ Soul Kitchen Bistro ul. Nowogrodzka 18A, open Mon-Thu 12:0022:00; Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 13:00-23:00, tel. 519 020 888, www.soulkitchen.pl If the previous venue was all slanted towards low-pitched business conversation then the new one is positively festive in comparison: scuffed brickwork, tall bar stools, a long communal table, etc. The seasonal menu is a pick-and-mix of small-to-medium plates, including a halibut gravlax, whose delicate taste juxtaposes well against the rougher, earthier kick of the radish, and crayfish presented in a bird’s nest of green beans, fennel and leek. For mains, look for the braised beef. $ Tamka 43 (E3) ul. Tamka 43, tel. 22 441 6234, open Mon-Sun 10:00-23:00, www.tamka.43.pl The design is upscale but in a quiet, dignified manner, with the principal talking point being

THE ONLY MODERN SOUTH AMERICAN CUISINE IN WARSAW

73 Wilcza Street, tel. (22) 58 48 771 W W W.SALTORESTAUR ACJA .PL

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listings / restaurants the view: there it is, right in front of you, the Ostrogski Palace. For date night, book the peacock’s perch, a table for two that juts out from the rest of the glass frontage. Chef Rafał Hreczaniuk has finessed a menu that stands out as one of the best in the city, with a seasonal tasting menu that on our visit featured beautiful zander with horse radish powder, Irish beef cheek with plenty of oomph, and a wild garlic panna cotta. Consider it one of the Poland’s elite restaurants. $$$ Tapage (D6) pl. Zbawiciela 5, open Sun-Thu 12:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-4:00 Newly opened, it’s best to think of Tapage as a testing ground for experimental ideas. Opened by the same team behind Kaskrut, it’s split into three distinct areas: a terrace, a snug white-tiled bar, and an upstairs nook up some spiral stairs. The menu (scheduled to change every couple of weeks) is brief with dishes presented like proud little artworks. We tried everything (!), and particularly loved the salmon served with sriracha and a bed of diced pineapple. The overlapping tastes form a perfect combination leaving diners stunned. $$ Wilczy Głód (D5) ul. Wilcza 29A, tel. 22 891 0285, open Mon 9:30-20:00; Tue-Thu 9:30-22:00; Fri 9:3023:00; Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 The jaunty, impish design makes use of cartoonish wolves on the walls and tree-like installations strung with bare light bulbs.

And look, there’s a furry, mouse resting on a cushion. But if the place is playful and perky, then the cooking is both serious and sincere.

Matching international ideas with organic local produce from small family farmsteads, you immediately sense this is a place created out of a love and respect for food. $ Wootwórnia (H4) ul. Królowej Aldony 5, tel. 603 696 259, open 10:00-22:00, www.wootwornia.pl.

Accessed round a back garden, Wootwórnia feels like a private little secret – you get the sensation not of visiting a restaurant, but of visiting a friend. The dominant element is the counter, from which co-owner Agnes Woo showcases her homemade preserves and own-baked cakes. Sourcing ingredients from small-scale local farms, here is a menu designed to nourish the soul. And it does just that. The tomato soup, enriched with hint of orange, aniseed and cinnamon isn’t soup of the day, it’s our soup of the year. Genuine ‘food from the heart’. $$

Znajomi Znajomych (C5) ul. Wilcza 58A, open Mon-Thi 12:00-1:00; Fri 12:00-3:00; Sat 13:00-3:00; Sun 13:001:00, znajomiznajomych.waw.pl You can’t label Zna Zna a restaurant because it’s so much more than that: screenings, DJs, yard sales, book readings… there’s not a thing they don’t turn their hand to. But that’s not to say this retro-styled hangout can’t turn their skils to food – here that means light bites, pizzas, burgers and a recommended chili con carne. $$ Żurawina (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34, tel. 22 521 06 66, open Mon-Thu 8:00-24:00; Fri 8:00-1:00; Sat 14:00-1:00; Sun 14:00-22:00, zurawina. eu First a wine bar, second a restaurant, but the food here is such that it merit attention.

There’s only seven or so mains to pick from, and the chef has them down to a tee – rib eye with shallots and truffle butter? Yes please. Certainly, the quality befits one of Warsaw’s best wine bars. $$

italian

‘Simplicity, elegance and atmosphere’

Cafe • Wine Bar • Restaurant • Whisky Bar • Wine Cellar ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 515 037 001 www.hoza.warszawa.pl www.facebook.com/hoza25 Open 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-21:00

Ave Pizza (E3) ul. Topiel 12, tel. 22 828 8507, open 12:00-22:00 The argument over who serves Warsaw’s best pizza goes right to the wire, but there’s no doubting that Ave Pizza are up there on the leaderboard. Set across a sparse, metropolitan area, this fashionable L-shaped joint comes endorsed by the capital’s notoriously picky Italian community.

Order the pillowy calzone and you’ll soon learn why. $ Ave Pizza Piękna 56 (D6) ul. Piękna 56, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:30; Sun 12:00-22:00 After experiencing landslide success in Powiśle the Ave team have listened to the market and expanded to the center. While pizza still plays a prominent role, their newest location is more serious and sophisticated in its culinary intent.

Dishes like prawns in parma ham win blanket approval, while the semifreddo stop you in your tracks. $$ Bacio (D5) ul. Wilcza 43, tel. 22 626 83 03, open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 13:00-23:00; www.warsawinsider.pl

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Restauracja Stary Dom ul. Puławska 104 / 106, 02-620 Warszawa

tel.: (+48) 22 646 42 08 www.restauracjastarydom.pl

Restauracja Zielnik ul. Odyńca 15, 02-608 Warszawa tel.: (+48) 22 844 35 00 www.restauracjazielnik.pl

Restauracja PAPU

Al. Niepodległości 132/136, 02-554 Warszawa

tel.: (+48) 22 856 77 88 www.restauracjapapu.pl

listings / restaurants Sun 13:00-22:00, www.bacio.pl New look Bacio has been de-cluttered and simplified and now features a stripped down look and a menu that peaks with the duck in red wine risotto. Portions are huge, and are matched by a quality that’s seen this once ailing giant reinstalled as one of the top Italian eats in town. $$ Delizia (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 22 622 6665, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00, www.delizia.com.pl The sheer proliferation of Italian restaurants lends an element of chance to dining out: cut through the noise by visiting Delizia, a place that’s consistently topped polls ever since it launched in 2010. Lorenzo’s cooking is upscale Italian with a contemporary twist, and comes presented by Luca, an ebullient ball of energy who patrols the floor with sparkling good humor. In the hands of these two an unforgettable night comes guaranteed.

Top quality imported products, a dimly-lit romantic atmosphere, a tasteful design and faultless food: no wonder so many rate this as their favorite Italian. $$ Dziurka od Klucza (E3) ul. Radna 13, tel. 500 150 494, open Mon-Sun 12:00-22:00, dziurkaodklucza. com.pl An inviting Italian restaurant in which curious doors sit embedded into the walls, as if waiting to be opened by the keys that hang on the tree outside. Striking a lavender look, the magic of this restaurant is affirmed by its wonderful pasta and intimate style. $$

Focaccia (D2) ul. Senatorska 13/15, tel. 22 829 6969, open 8:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-23:00, focaccia.pl Polish foodies already know the name of Łukasz Toczka – single-handedly he pulled the culinary shipwreck that is Gdańsk into the 21st century during his stint at Metamorfoza restaurant. Now he’s popped up in Warsaw, and his Italian menu illustrates his talent: consider the bistecca con sedano a must. And while you’d expect a restaurant inside a palace to be all bowties and oil paintings, it’s anything but – instead find fresh, light interiors that reflect the nature of the food. $$ La Bufala (B4) ul. Sienna 86, tel. 22 654 3277, open daily 11:00-23:00 Not long back this was the go-to place for Italian expats looking for pizza.

What’s gone wrong? No idea, but recent trips reveal a kitchen that hasn’t so much rested on its laurels as died on them. $ Mąka i Woda (D4) ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 91 87, open Mon-Thu 12:00-22:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-20:00 Purists applaud an approach that uses a custom-made oven from Naples and imported ingredients such as 00 Caputo flour and DOP certified San Marzano tomatoes. Scrupulously authentic, it’s no wonder that it’s packed to the gunnels every night of the week – even their Facebook page warns of 20 minute waiting times for a table alone. Learning this, some storm off in a

huff – they need their heads checked, for this is Warsaw’s best pizza. $ Parmizzano’s (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel, Floor 1), tel. 22 630 6306, open 12:00-23:00 The prices are highly intimidating, but are offset by cooking that never falls below brilliant.

Hotel restaurants get a bad rep, but in the formal surrounds of Parmiazzano’s diners can expect Italian food at its very best. $$$ Ristorante San Lorenzo (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 36, tel. 22 652 1616, open 12:00-last guest, www.sanlorenzo. pl Adorned with crisp, starched linen and Roman frescos this space is almost magisterial in design. The Tuscan menu is flawless and well worth the rather hefty bill. The wine bar on the ground floor features the same standards at a snip of the price, and it’s here you’ll find Italian natives cheering the Serie A football. Now also on Żurawia 6/12, only with a more modish design clearly targeted at a slightly younger audience. $$ The Olive (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6706, open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, Sat & Sun 6:30-11:00 Bursting with seasonal fruits and veggies, it’s a fresh, fun place to eat. Hot and cold buffet for zł. 90. $$$ Vapiano Al. Jerozolimskie 63 (Lipinski Passage), tel.

22 356 10 50, open Mon-Thu 9:00-23:00, Fri

Dear Guests!

We invite you to experience an exotic and mysterious adventure full of seasonal aromas and the unforgettable flavours of traditional Indian cuisine.

Curry, coriander, turmeric, cinnamon, ginger, cumin: these aromas mean it’s impossible to pass Buddha without stepping in.

Enjoy the atmosphere of Indian life, food, music and happiness.

Buddha Indian Restaurant ul. Nowy Swiat 23 +48 22 826 35 01 / 725 111 222

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listings / restaurants 9:00-1:00; Sat 11:00-1:00, Sun 11:00-22:00 & ul. Taśmowa 7 (Marynarska Business Park) & ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów) www.vapiano.de/pl Here’s one chain brand that is worth the hype. Featuring a chic look rounded out with Ferrari red colors, the thin crust pizza earns its spurs, and the pasta combinations are great. $$ Venti-tre (E8) ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel), tel. 22 558 1094, open 6:30-23:00 There’s a hum and a buzz to the place that goes beyond the half a million bees kept in the apiary on the rooftop, and that’s never truer than on a Sunday afternoon – swing by for one of Warsaw’s top brunches, and don’t miss the terrace – carefully shielded from the outside world by a phalanx of greenery. The Mediterranean menu has been carefully constructed using local ingredients, with the results befitting one of Warsaw’s top hotels. $$$

japanese & sushi Hana Sushi al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), tel. 22 331 7518, open Mon-Sat 11:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, www.hanasushi.pl Dated decor of bamboo shoots and bonsai trees is made to look good by dreadful service and irritating elevator music. But it’s hard to dislike Hana – the ‘gunkan special’ is out of this world. $$ Izumi Sushi ul. Mokotowska 17 (pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 22 825 7950, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00 & ul. Biały Kamień 4, tel. 22 424 0055, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.izumisushi.eu The original location never ceases to amaze with its sushi, though it’s the addition on Biały Kamień that really gets people talking.

Here it’s not just the food that wows, but the interiors: a huge venue whose open plan doubles as an indoor forest – you need to see it to believe it. $$ Robata by Akashia (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 61, tel. 22 636 6767, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00, www.akashia.pl Upstairs is raw and red and black, while downstairs is more calming, though no less interesting: it’s like stepping into a Manga comic, what with the Godzilla graffiti and industrial format. Even the staff

look like they’ve been ordered to dress up like Tokyo cool kids. The star here though is the robata grill. We opted for a ‘spray and pray’ approach: ordering lots of little dishes in the hope something would come up trumps. In the event, everything did. $$ Ryż i Ryba (D6) ul. Piękna 20, tel. 22 627 4150, open Mon-Fri 11:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-22:00, www.ryziryba.pl The art of sushi is given a new lease of life in this Piękna newbie. The flavors are a revelation, making it more than just a stop-off for passing office workers. $$

Newly opened location of Soul Kitchen Bistro.

Modern, classic Polish cuisine

Sakana Sushi Bar ul. Burakowska 5/7 tel. 22 636 0505, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00, Sun 13:00-22:00 & ul. Moliera 4/6, tel. 22 826 5958, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-1:00; Sun 13:00-22:00 & ul. Wąwozowa 6, lok.10B, tel. 22 498 8899, Mon-Sat 12:0022:30, Sun 13:00-22:00, www.sakana.pl Sushi as a fashion statement? That’s what you find in Sakana, a place where the glam and the great of Warsaw peacock around with feathers on display. Ignoring the general vanity and unpleasantness, one can’t help but applaud the sushi – if there was one winner in the sushi wars of the noughties, then Sakana was it. $$ Sushi Zushi (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 420 3373, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-03:00; Sun 13:00-22:00, www.sushizushi.pl The mania for sushi is in recess, and that’s a good thing – the rogue operators are dead or dying off, and are survived by the best.

And make no mistake, Sushi Zushi continue to be the No. 1 ex-pat choice. Appreciated by a stunning crowd, the rolls are often bold, creative and always astonishingly fresh. $$ Tomo (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2344, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.tomo.pl Excellent.

While Warsaw’s other sushi stops gather cobwebs Tomo packs out each night – that should say enough. With the maki, sushi and sashimi bobbing past on wooden platters, this place aims for fast, maximum turnover without ever making the diner feel second best. $$ Uki Uki (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, tel. 728 827 705, open 12:00-21:00, ukiuki.pl Depending on how

ul. Nowogrodzka 18A tel. 519 020 888 www.soulkitchen.pl www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / restaurants busy they are, Uki Uki will prepare your Udon noodles fresh within 15-30 minutes. The electric pasta maker, imported from Japan, is a Godzilla of a monster, compressing and even cutting the udon dough into chunky, chewy noodles that provide a solid foundation for a richly satisfying meal. Every now and again a restaurant comes along that makes Warsaw’s dining scene all the more complete – Uki Uki is one of those. $$

of years, and they’ve all quickly folded.

Already though, there’s the impression Galil might last the distance, a point underlined by the rather good food. We started with a zesty tabouleh before moving on to grilled chicken breast with dates and a syrup glaze. Set inside a rambling, tiled interior, this labyrinthine space already looks like its snaring big-spending groups. Kosher certified, as well. $$

Wabu (D5) ul. Krucza 41/43, tel. 22 628 9274, open 12:00-23:00, wabu.pl The food is a masterpiece: immaculate futomaki rolls that look like little artworks, exquisite butterfish and glorious tuna gunkan that flashes with freshness. Screw the chopsticks, food this good finds itself scooped up in the fingers and demolished in seconds. Soon enough it all becomes a blur of beautiful compositions, of silky slithers of fish crowned with expert pinches of this, and little brush strokes of that. The details don’t seem to matter, what does is that Wabu blow the competition out of the water, even if it does leave the credit card streaming smoke. $$$

Pod Samsonem (C1) ul. Freta 3/5, tel. 22 831 1788, open 10:0023:00, www.podsamsonem.pl Operating since the 1950s – crazy when you think about it. This is the place for an ordinary meal in an ordinary space. The menu mixes aspects of Polish and Jewish cooking, and fails to do a good job of either. Entertainment is provided by the staff: find them engaged in something akin to war with the people they serve. $

jewish Galil (C3) ul. Zielna 36, tel. 731 492 634, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Sun 14:00-23:00, www.galil-restaurant.pl There’s been a few Jewish restaurants opened in the last couple

latin & mexican Aioli (D3) ul. Świętokrzyska 18, tel. 22 290 102, open Sun-Thu 9:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 9:00-24:00, www.aioli-cantine.com This runaway hit has taken Warsaw by storm. It’s a jaunty space with hams hanging from hooks and long communal tables that thrive with life. Aioli’s breakfasts, sandwiches, pastas and pizzas are a lesson in clean, simple pleasure: nothing out of the world, just consistently good. This and the liberal prices mean there’s no shortage of

people passing in and out the doors. $$ Blue Cactus (E8) ul. Zajączkowska 11, tel. 22 851 2323, open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 9:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, www.bluecactus.pl It’s been around for so long that people had started referring to the Cactus in the past tense. Enter executive chef Patrick Hanna, a man who has revitalized and revived the place in a way no-one could have imagined. Combining the barbecuing techniques of the southern states with the humble but potent tastes of Mexico, Hanna has reawakened this sleeping giant.

Committed to local produce and fresh flavors, his finest moment has been hoiking over a wood-fired grill all the way from Nashville – the steaks will stop you in your tracks. Say it loudly: the Blue Cactus is back! $

Casa Pablo (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5A, tel. 22 324 5781, open Mon-Sat 12:00-last guest, www.casapablo.pl “We give Spanish food a new twist,” declares chef Gonzalo de Salas, which explains why, in between pungent cheeses and acorn-fed Bellota ham, we find ourselves demolishing a variety of dishes that buck all notions of tradition: as a starter the beetroot-marinated salmon served with wasabi emulsion is a fine example of this. With de Salas performing balletic tricks in the kitchen, Casa Pablo

The Biggest selection of Lebanese wine in the world! (see page 46 for details) Le Cedre 61

opposite the zoo Al. Solidarności 61, Praga Tel 22 670 11 66

Le Cedre 84

opposite the court Al. Solidarności 84 Tel 22 618 89 99

www.lecedre.pl

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listings / restaurants presents a masterful menu that ripples with adventure. $$ Dos Tacos (D4) ul. Jasna 22, tel. 22 243 4618, open 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00, dostacos. pl Dos Tacos finally have a venue worthy of the food. Featuring lots of Mexican lizard art and psychedelic, Day of the Dead touches, find the interiors busy with a lively crowd enjoying an exciting range of salsas and authentic Mexican recipes as cooked by Isabela Balderas. $$ Gringo Bar (E9) ul. Odolańska 15, tel. 22 848 9523, open Mon-Sat 12:00-20:00; Sun 11:00-20:00 A Mexican wave is upon us, and high time too. After years of suffering frozen ingredients, timid flavors and daft Mariachi music to persuade us it’s all authentic, a raft of new cut-price eateries are showing the rest how it’s done. Cooked and folded by fist bumping lads in back-to-front caps and baggy t-shirts, the food at Gringo is by far the best of the bunch: fiery, fresh and full of zing. And what about this for a nice summer surprise: their brief summer closure saw them knock a wall through to expand the premises by a good 40 sq/m. So no more sitting with bearded strangers on the sole communal table! $ Jamon (D2) ul. Wierzbowa 9, tel. 22 692 4223, open 12:00-23:00, jamon.pl The place looks the biz – custom made artwork presents swirling senoritas against an interior that’s based around a naval color palette and reclaimed wood touches. Perfect for ‘hot dates’.

There’s an onus on authenticity, and that’s evidenced by the four Spaniards found in the kitchen. We could find no weak point, meaning complete enjoyment of the tranche of black Alaskan cod, bulgy-eyed Huelva prawns and slow-roasted lamb shank. The desert – white chocolate cream – is worth a prize. $$ Tapas Gastrobar (A4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 251 1310, open Mon-Thu 12:00-last guest (kitchen closes at 23:00); Fri-Sat 12:00-last guest (kitchen closes at midnight); Sun 12:00-19:00 (kitchen closes at 18:00), tapasbar.pl The engaging design features scuffed timber tables supported by rescued factory metal, open ductwork and elaborate floor tiles of Iberian persuasion. But the food is what everyone is talking about: the first class

gazpacho, prepared onsite then served in a bottle, is full of refreshing summer zing, while the beef cheek is pure melty tenderness. Our favorite, though, are the patatas bravas, perfectly fried potatoes served in a ballsy tomato sauce. Just amazing. $$ BEST WAWA 2014 “Casual Dining” Spoco Loco (H4) ul. Francuska 8, open 12:00-21:00, www. spocoloco.pl It begins with a bead of sweat.

Then a couple of tears. Then the real pain starts and doesn’t retract until you’ve rolled on the floor and died for twenty minutes.

Spoco Loco’s No. 7 sauce is no laughing matter, and should be treated with respect.

But this tiny eatery is not founded on gimmicks. The burritos and quesadillas are the real deal, and ably supported by a choice of milder sauces that don’t require Red Cross treatment. After a mysterious absence of six months, it’s heartening to see Spoco Loco back open for business. $

middle eastern

Seduces with the taste

Modern take on Italian Cuisine Mediterranean starters, seafood, pasta, pizza and Italian desserts Free car park for restaurant guests

Le Cedre (E1) Al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166, open daily 11:0023:00, www.lecedre. pl With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops. $$

Le Cedre 84 (B3) Al. Solidarności 84, tel. 22 618 8999, open 11:00-23:00, www.lecedre.pl Le Cedre just keep on getting it right. Authenticity is key in this chainlette (well, there’s another across the river), as you’ll discover when talking to Tony, the Lebanese owner. To see the diversity of this cuisine, order the balbaak (six cold starters) or the byblos (six hot). And food aside, it’s the atmosphere that carries them that extra yard: the whole philosophy of this cuisine is to share and share alike, making it a uniquely engaging experience when dining with friends. $$

www.focaccia.pl tel.: 22 829 69 69, Senatorska 13/15 Warsaw/Old Town www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / restaurants Meza Beirut (D4) ul. Ordynacka 13, tel. 22 692 7555 God knows how many restaurants have chanced their luck in this location, though Meza Beirut look a better bet than most to break the hex. Lebanese-run, the menu here is comprehensive with all the requisite hot and cold mezze and grilled and skewered meats.

Early feedback has been largely positive, with decent prices and fresh flavors doing their bit to stir local interest. $$ Sokotra (D5) ul. Wilcza 27, tel. 22 270 2766, open Mon-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00 A Yemeni restaurant with a brief menu full of recognizable Eastern dishes like hummus and grilled halloumi. And one of the big boons is the discovery that Indian influences also fall under the compass of Yemeni cuisine – the madras leaves you puffing smoke rings. Find all that in a casual interior composed of chattery locals and mysterious concrete additions – e.g. a telegraph pole squeezed amid the tables. $$

polish

Amber Room at the Sobański Palace (E6) Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat 12:00-22:30; Sun 12:00-20:00, www.amberroom.pl The Amber Room is, indeed, a bit of a treasure.

You know all the chefs we bang on about in this mag? Bottom line, the good ones came through via this kitchen. But this is more than a training ground for future stars, it’s a place that remains on the cutting edge in spite of its seemingly straight look. Positioned inside a majestic villa, the food is pure contemporary Poland, and well deserving of its Michelin nod. For that, thank chef Robert Skubisz. $$$ Atelier Amaro (E6) ul. Agrykola 1, tel. 22 628 5747, www. atelieramaro.pl The recipient of Poland’s

only Michelin star, Atelier promotes pedigree Polish produce enhanced by modern techniques, with courses interspersed by occasionally bizarre interludes (leaves, flowers, twigs, etc.). Don’t miss the bespoke vodka menu, either. It’s an extraordinary dining experience, and one which confirms the growing cult of chef Wojciech Amaro. In the hours you’re here, the world stops and you leave feeling like James Bond. Reservations are mandatory, with a waiting list that is approximately two to three months long. $$$ BEST WAWA 2014 “Presentation”

Belvedere Łazienki Królewskie ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. 22 558 6701, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-20:00, belvedere.com.pl Regarded as one of the great names on Warsaw’s culinary carousel, this restaurant never ceases to impress: set in a imperial age glass orangery, it’s festooned

Spanish owner, Spanish chef… SPANISH SOUL! ul. Grzybowska 63 (next to the Hilton Hotel) 00-844 Warszawa +48 22 251 1310 www.tapasgastrobar.pl

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listings / restaurants with intricate latticework and botanical exotica. The updated interiors are the work of acclaimed set designer Boris Kudlicka, and lend a fresh, contemporary tone that goes hand in hand with Adam Komar’s menu. But behind the gels and emulsions and pretty little swirls, this is cooking of substantial depth; it’s cooking that takes you to the very soul of Polish nature. $$$

Czerwony Wieprz (Red Hog) (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 22 850 3144, open daily 12:0024:00 (kitchen to 23:00), www.czerwonywieprz.pl Now everyone is rich and happy, it’s easy to forget communism was a pretty dire experiment. Which explains the playful nature of this commie themed restaurant. Dining is done under red banners and paintings of nasty political activists, while the menu is a humorous affair divided between dishes for the dignitary and

proletariat – all details that saw it names as one of the Top 25 Unique Restaurants in the World. Another vodka, comrade, and the First Secretary’s pork loins while you’re there! $$ Dawne Smaki (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 49, tel. 22 465 83 20, www. dawnesmaki.pl At last, a proper restaurant on Nowy Świat! The interiors hark to the past, while the back garden promises an oasis-like experience: if you’re new to Warsaw, it’s actually worth hanging around till summer just to see it. Chef Michał Bajerski, formerly of Regina Hotel, wraps it up nicely with a fantastic menu that modernizes traditional Polish recipes. Recommended: deer steak. $$ Delicja Polska (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 64, tel. 22 826 4770, www.delicjapolska.pl Looking stately (pink bows, gilt touches and immaculate linen) but never stuffy, Delicja have a modern Polish menu that includes sous-vide salmon marinated in beetroot leave, then topped with horseradish foam and dill emulsion.

Brilliant. But then so was everything else we tried, including the exquisite seasoned roast beef. $$

Dom Polski (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 2432, open daily 12:00-last guest, www.restauracjadompolski.pl Almost like it was designed for the manor born, Dom Polski has the rarefied atmosphere of a country retreat: bow-tied staff who click their heels, decorative antiques and a menu that’s a sumptuous anthology of posh Polish cooking. When you need to give visitors a sense of classic Warsaw, Dom Polski is the first out of the hat. $$$ Dom Polski Belwederska (F8) ul. Belwederska 18A, tel. 22 840 5060, open 12:00-23:00, restauracjadompolski.pl The perfect complement to their older sister on Francuska, the new offshoot of Dom Polski

Krakowskie Przedmieście 64 tel. +48 22 826 4770 email. info@delicjapolska.pl www.delicjapolska.pl

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listings / restaurants features a beautiful look that draws heavily on classic, almost noble inspirations. As for the garden, that in itself is a fairytale that requires exploration. The menu is as you’d expect, a modernized take on the traditional, with the game dishes an emphatic favorite. $$

Folk Gospoda (B3) ul. Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605, www. folkgospoda.plSometimes all you want to do is slather lard on a big hunk of bread before surrounding yourself with little shots of ice cold vodka. You wouldn’t call it cultivated, but there are occasions when a good knees-up around a rough wooden table is exactly what’s required. And while you’re there, why not add platters of meat to the scene, a crackling fireplace and a mountain band. Folk Gospoda do all that making them the default favorite for a traditional night out. $$

Halka Restaurcja po polsku ul. Puławska 43, tel. 509 593 305, open Mon-Fri 11:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-22:00, restauracjahalka.pl Named in honor of one of Poland’s best known operas, Halka offer a glimpse of old school Warsaw. Having relocated from downtown Pańska, the new address is a cut and paste of the former location: lots of glinting surfaces, ornate crockery and pink flower arrangements. Innovation is surrendered for a menu that deals in classic interpretations of upmarket Polish food: rabbit, goose, duck and other animals shot on country estates.

Kuchnia Funkcjonalna (G3) ul. Jakubowska 16 (enter from ul. Estońska), tel. 512 893 898, open Mon-Thu 11:0023:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-23:00 Snuck inside one of Saska’s definitive modernist buildings, Kuchnia make slow food accessible to all wallets. Venison from the Bieszczady Mountains,

dairy products from Jersey cattle milk, and the use of goose fat instead of butter are just a few noteworthy characteristics; the frequently changing menu reflects the commitment to nature. The ascetic design is softened by a cast-iron stove and moody lighting, giving the restaurant a warm, seasonal glow, while the garden gives people the opportunity to eavesdrop the big concerts at the stadium next door! $$

Papu (D9) al. Niepodległości 132/136, tel. 22 856 7788, open 11:00-22:30, restauracjapapu. pl The elegant décor sees wood-paneled walls lined with champagne bottles, making it an experience that is at once intimate and romantic. Chef Bartek Kędra’s menu is specifically strong when it comes to white and red meats: order the beef rib. It’s a massive, brutal instrument that could be used to club someone to death. Fall-off-

Slow food and a slow life philosophy inside an urban interior and a luxury wine and spirits list. Our kitchen uses only high quality regional and ecological produce. tel. 22 623 02 90, www.dwietrzecie.waw.pl

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listings / restaurants the-bone good, this Flintstone monster is seriously memorable. Other courses are more sophisticated, and include a knee trembling, lipstick red strawberry tartar. $$ Podwale Piwna Kompania (D2) ul. Podwale 25, tel. 22 635 6314, www. podwale25.pl Prowling mountain bands generate a beer hall atmosphere, while the courtyard garden – designed to replicate a Mitteleuropa square – is one of the best you’ll find. But the obscene portions can’t mask what is pretty poor food. Go there for the experience, if nothing else. $ Restauracja Polska “Różana” (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 22 848 1225, open 12:00-last guest, www.restauracjarozana. com.pl The rarified atmosphere of Różana is a pleasure indeed. Close to the frontline of Mokotów / Śródmieście, you’d never guess the proximity of the center. Seated in their garden, one feels removed from the city – a fountain burbles quietly in the background, starlings hop around the trees.

From the inside, one hears the distant tinkle of the house pianist. Just being here is a thrill in itself, and the food is a Polish dining extravaganza served from the top table: farmhouse duck, saddle of venison, etc.

Słoik (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 600 396 688, open Mon-Fri 10:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-23:00, restauracjasloik.pl Jarheads will love Słoik, a place lined with glass jars brimming with colorful ingredients and bright preserves. Find natural Polish produce and traditional-sounding dishes treated with a careful and contemporary hand. The approach pits modernist against classic, and the winner is, well, you.

This is traditional Polish food updated for the discerning, latter day palate – and it’s really quite something. $

Soul Kitchen Bistro ul. Nowogrodzka 18A, tel. 519 020 888, open Mon-Thu 12:0022:00; Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 13:00-23:00, www.soulkitchen.pl Talk about brilliant.

After a brief hiatus Soul Kitchen return with a new location and ‘bistro’ added to their title.

The cooking is as you remember: a stonking celebration of Polish nature. The difference is the price – slashed right down. $$

Stary Dom ul. Puławska 104/106, tel. 22 646 4208, open 12:00-23:30, restauracjastarydom.pl A classic restaurant in style and history: back in the day it was a favorite haunt of jockeys and race goers from the horse track nearby.

Pre-war recipes form the basis of the menu, with the team using seasonal produce and the latest technology to bring out its best. $$ U Fukiera (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 27 (Old Town Market Square), tel. 22 831 1013, open 12:00-last guest, www.ufukiera.pl New arrivals looking to get a grasp of local cuisine have many options in varying price brackets. U Fukiera is definitely in the big spend category, but visitors come away with a common sense of wonderment. That’s largely due to enchanting interiors that have guests exploring twinkling chambers that unravel like a fairytale. Set in a 500 year old townhouse, the beautiful backdrop is accompanied by a grand menu of duck, venison, veal and lamb. $$$

Varso Vie (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 2, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-22:00, tel. 22 622 2472, varsovie.pl Despite the concrete color palette Varso Vie retains a good buzz. It helps that on one side guests are flanked by punchy bursts of modern art, and on the other, an open kitchen that’s all clamor, commotion and general rumpus. The menu is modern Polish: duck stomachs in a flaky puff pastry with a thick smear of thyme sauce; Baltic trout served on a pinkish mush of red lentils and mint; and a coveted meringue mousse with mascarpone and passion fruit jelly.

Exemplary. $$

Zapiecek Locations inc. ul. Nowy Świat 64, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska 13, tel. 22 635 61 09, open

Traditional Polish cuisine Best venison and lamb in Warsaw Live music Regional wine, beer and spirits Grand Kredens - 16 years full of tradition

Aleje Jerozolimskie 111 tel. +48 22 629 80 08 Mob. +48 697 900 000 kredens@kredens.com.pl www.kredens.com.pl Follow us on Facebook www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / restaurants 11:00-23:00 & ul. Wańkowicza 1, open 11:00-22:00, CH Arkadia, open 10:00-22:00, www.zapiecek.eu Seven Warsaw locales, with our favorite found in the vaulted passages of Świętojańska. The menu is highly traditional, with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’.

It’s for the pierogi though for which they’re famous; find approx. fifty types delivered by servers dressed like saucy country maids. $

Zielnik (D10) ul. Odyńca 15, tel. 22 844 3500, open 10:0023:30, restauracjazielnik.pl A quiet Mokotów side street is the setting for this little secret.

In it, flowers, lots of them, and a warming wood interior just right for winter. And then the food arrives: dainty veal dumplings, and tender braised veal that’s good for the chills.

You leave knowing you have eaten honestly and well. $$

scandinavian Nabo ul. Zakręt 8, tel. 22 842 0256, open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:30; Sat-Sun 9:00-21:30, www. nabocafe.pl The décor is, we’re told, typical Danish cafe – bold open windows, simple lines, high shelves filled with books and games on the table. But what is Danish food?

There’s Old Danish on the menu: meatballs and open face sandwiches with meat and fish in various textural configurations and

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then there’s New Danish: an emerging trend towards fresh, seasonal food (no microwave oven at Nabo), with locally sourced and innovatively concocted ingredients. $$

specialty food shops Befsztyk ul. Puławska 176/178, tel. 22 843 6110, www.befsztyk.pl The Prokopowicz family has come a long way since launching Befsztyk in 1994. Top restaurants, celebs and ex-pats are listed as clients, and all agree that this operation is indisputably ‘top of the chops’.

Find steaks seasoned for three weeks, gluten-free smoked meats, Merino lamb, BBQ kits and so much more. Home delivery, internet ordering and English-speaking staff round out this legend.

Bio Bazar (B4) ul. Żelazna 51/53, tel. 22 318 8855, open Sat 8:00-16:00, www.biobazar.org.pl Fruit and veg in the first warehouse, some of it imported from as far as Argentina. In the second warehouse, find organic cheese varieties from sheep and goats, as well as import brands from Italy, France and the Netherlands.

Forteca Kregliccy ul. Zakroczymska 12, open Weds 8:0016:00, kregliccy.eu/forteca Spot the stars

of Warsaw’s restaurant scene perusing the stalls at this weekly farmers’ market. Look for Pan Ziółko, Poland’s first celebrity farmer (!), Portobello’s from the country’s only organic mushroom farm and the magical yogurts from Mleczna Droga Manufaktura Serów.

Marks & Spencer Various locations inc. DT Wars & Sawa, ul.

Marszałkowska 104/122, tel. 22 551 7553, open Mon-Sat 9:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00, www.marks-and-spencer.com.pl Visit the flagship Marszałkowska branch to take advantage of the on-site bakery, but visit early as choice diminishes early. Aside from baked goods find a widely appreciated frozen food section that include British sausages, bacon and microwave curries.

Samira ul. Powsińska 64A, tel. 22 825 3363, open 10:00-21:00; Sun 12:00-18:00, samira. pl Now in bigger and better premises, this Lebanese supermarket offers a comprehensive rundown of imported goods that ranges from spices, preserves and rubs to nuts, olives, teas and soft drinks.

steak houses Butchery & Wine (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 502 3118, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00, www. butcheryandwine.pl The Sarf London-born Bertha oven has revolutionized the way steak

OLIVA_SIERPIEN_46x206_01 2015.08.21

listings / restaurants is cooked, retaining moisture in a way no-one thought possible. Expect robust pieces of animal full of big, brawny tastes, but there’s so much more than just meat: starters involve a sea bass ceviche that pings with citrusy flavor not to mention more-ish pork crackling that pop like fire bangers in the mouth. A place of energy and ambition, it’s a great mix of both new and classic. Bookings advised. $$ Downtown Restaurant (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental Hotel, level 2), tel. 22 328 8745, open Mon-Fri for Breakfast 6:30-10:00; Sat 6:30-11:00, 12:00-15:00, 18:00-23:00; Sat 12:0016:00, Sunday Brunch 12:30-16:00, dinner 18:00-23:00 There’s now a few candidates for Warsaw’s best steak, and Downtown have certainly upped the erm, stakes, with their new menu. Yes, the doors of Downtown are a gateway to heaven – particularly true if, like us, your vision of heaven is a rich green field filled with fat, juicy cows. But don’t for one moment assume the offer ends with cows. Now added to their menu are other animalitos like kangaroo. $$$ Hoża (D5) ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 603 778 275, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, hoza.warszawa.pl Wine and steak: it sounds so simple, but Hoża have taken two simple pleasures to another level. It’s a vibrant space with service right out of charm school, and a kitchen team with a real knowledge of cows. A red-blooded affair, the menu is a steak sensation and well paired with a handpicked wine list. $$ Merliniego 5 (E10) ul. Merliniego 5, tel. 22 646 0810, www. merliniego5.pl A classic looking steakhouse that swirls in shadow, brickwork and elegant touches, it’s a place to immerse yourself in an atmosphere that’s all surreptitious conversation and distant clinking glasses. The steaks are out-of-this world, with USDA prime beef from New York’s legendary Ottomanelli & Sons and Scottish beef from London’s Smithfield Market. On our last visit we splurged on the Grade 9+ wagyu ‘kobe’ rib-eye and found ourselves eating the steak of a lifetime.

Simply amazing. $$$

Salto (C6) ul. Wilcza 73, tel.

22 584 8771, www. saltorestauracja.pl When Martin Gimenez

Castro scooped top prize in the Top Chef program it simply confirmed what foodies had known for years: that this is a man of some talent. Now leading the kitchen in Salto, the highlight of Castro’s menu is undoubtedly the ‘steak weekends’. We challenge you to find better. During the week opt instead for his South American inspired dishes. Salto has the hallmarks of a success story, and under Castro’s captaincy that’s a certainty to happen. $$$

thai my’o’tai ul. Szpitalna 8 (enter on Górskiego), tel.

662 742 901, open Mon-Thu 12:00-24:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-3:00, Sun 12:00-21:00 While the menu lacks standard Thai dishes (no noodles!?), the tastes are thoroughly authentic and a credit to chef Trisno Hamidis. The caramelized spicy chicken wings are so good you’ll think about ordering them twice. $$ Thai Thai (C2) Pl. Teatralny 3, tel. 601 818 283, open 12:00-23:00, www.thaithai.pl In terms of design it’s little short of perfect: gold vaulted interiors lend a muted glow to a largely black on black space while serene looking Buddha’s peer on the diners below.

As for the food, that’s one big success story with plenty of lively flavors and vibrant colors.

The Tom Yang Kung, a deeply nourishing fish broth that awakens the senses with a sharp, spicy jolt, is a must! $$

restauracjaoliva.pl

phone +48 501 497 410 facebook.com/RestauracjaOliva twitter.com/OlivaWarszawa

Thaisty (C2) pl. Bankowy 4, tel. 730 000 024, thaisty.pl The coup here has been the recruitment of Chanunkan Duangkumma, Warsaw’s favorite Thai chef. The menu has street food inspirations and also includes several recipes passed down Duangkumma’s family line: consider the BBQ beef skewers essential. Vivid colors and a busy open kitchen lend the place a happy buzz that lasts through the day.

Why Thai (E5) ul. Wiejska 13, tel. 22 625 7698, open Sun-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00, www.whythai.pl A fresh attractive look, an authentic chef and a menu that doesn’t waffle on for pages and pages. But there’s something missing here, with the flavors not quite hitting the notes one expects. $$

Warszawa

Ordynacka 10/12

open 12 am - 11 pm

WELCOME

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cafes & wine bars NEW & NOTEWORTHY

NITRO LODY (ul. Zwycięzców 11, nitrolody.pl) Branding themselves as Warsaw’s first molecular ice cream parlor, this venture specializes in ice cream frozen with liquid nitrogen by lab coated staff: the results are as exciting in practice as they are in theory. Choose from an array of flavors, among them kiwi, gingerbread and Snickers. More than just a gimmick, the whole liquid nitrogen process ensures your ice cream is smoother than a pane of glass.

bakeries Aromat (C4) ul. Sienna 39, tel. 22 620 0819, open Mon-Fri 7:00-19:00; Sat 8:00-16:00 We’re told the interiors were purposefully kept neutral to keep the focus on the product – and crikey, what bread. French flour and an expert baker ensure brilliant results, while the lemon éclairs deserve their own Facebook page. Some claim it’s the best bakery in Poland, and we’re not arguing.

Café Vincent (D3) ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. 22 828 0115, open Sun-Thu 6:30-24:00; Fri-Sat 6:30-1:00 Ex-pats from France, a nation of master bakers if ever there were, profess Vincent to be their favorite Warsaw bakery. And they’re not alone. Queues build quickly as locals line up to buy baguettes, cinnamon rolls, lemon croissants and beautiful pains au chocolat.

But people don’t just head in then out, a small wine list and brilliant people spying opportunities cause most to linger.

Petit Appetit (E6) ul. Mokotowska 45, open Mon-Sat 8:00-19:00; Sun 8:00-18:00 The smell of freshly-baked loaves often wafts into the street, leaving passers-by with no option but to peer in – sweet temptation. And sweet is the right word: aside from divine baguettes check the pastries and brioches.

cafés

PRZEPIS (ul. Śniadeckich 12/16) An unassuming entrance opens up to reveal an intriguing interior that’s heavy on distressed wood surfaces and a color palette of hot pink and battlecruiser grey. And then there’s the artwork – definitely a conversation starter on a slow date. Dubbing themselves as a ‘gastro café’, most agree the desserts are enjoyable and the sandwiches even more so.

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Być Może (E7) ul. Bagatela 14, tel. 519 000 014, open 7:00-23:00, www.bycmoze.com.pl It’s all about artisan bread and breakfast in the industrial looking Być Może. It’s taken the concept of Charlotte (groan, there’s even a communal table), and improved it with excellent breads and a crowd that’s a little less pleased with itself and a little more normal.

Café Iluzja (C9) ul. Narbutta 50A, tel. 698 423 738, open

listings / cafés & wine bars daily 11:00-22:00, www.cafeiluzja.pl Bathed in white, black and shades of grey, it’s an allusion to the black-and-white films of bygone days. The interiors as a whole were designed in a 1950s vibe and the massive armchairs are by far the best part. What more do you expect from a café inside a cult socialist era cinema.

Chłodna 25 (B3) ul. Chłodna 25, tel. 604 614 287, open MonFri 9:00-22:00; Sat 11:00-22:00; Sun 12:0022:00 It’s back! Under new management, this Warsaw legend has been reclaimed from the hipsters and given over to the creative classes. A place of creaking floorboards, retro armchairs and bookshelves in the process of being filled, that this neighborhood hangout draws more than just neighbors is evidence of its greatness. And the really good bit?

They’ve now got beer (Bojan, Lwówek and Goralskie) – let joy be unconfined!

Cophi (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 513 422 908, open 7:30-20:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-17:00 Deviating away from ‘the Warsaw look’ (i.e. concrete, pipes, etc.), Cophi is the kind of place you actually want to stay in: homey and intimate but at the same time light and modern. You can sense the thought and passion behind this operation from the staff – find them using Aeropress, Chemex, siphon and drip methods with almost scientific precision in their quest to serve you what some are already claiming to be Warsaw’s best coffee.

wobbles, nooks and alcoves. All agree there’s something special here: maybe it’s the book selection – varied, esoteric and at once compelling. Or maybe it’s the atmosphere, such that browsers anchor themselves on the sofas to lose an afternoon with their nose in a novel while sipping drip coffee. Whatever the secret ingredient is, the bookish bustle makes it the most extraordinary literary hangout in the Polish capital.

Fawory ul. Mickiewicza 21, tel. 791 096 725, open Mon-Thur 8:00-22:00; Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 10:00-22:00 An intimate neighborhood cafe that comes complete with mugs that announce: “Fresh Coffee Tastes Better”. You bet it does. The smoothies and regional beers are just as good though, and come served inside a white interior splashed with an awesome mural.

Kafka Café (E3) ul. Oboźna 3, tel. 22 826 0822, open 9:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00, www. kawiarnia-kafka.pl A chessboard floor and a collection of antlers on the wall characterize Kafka, a bookstore / café whose literary collection is composed of paperbacks rescued from recycling plants. Books are purchased by their weight (zł. 10 per kilo) while the menu includes pancakes, pastas and even doggy treats for your mutt.

Crepe Café (E3) ul. Dobra 19, tel. 22 121 2275, open 8:0020:00 Is there such a thing as the perfect pancake? If not, then Crepe Café certainly comes close. Enjoy them in a contemporary interior that’s tiny in size: grab a seat up on the mezzanine level.

Krucza 23 Café & Bakery ul. Krucza 23, open Mon-Fri 7:30-20:00; SatSun 10:00-20:00 They didn’t spend much time thinking about the name, that’s a given, but that’s not to say creativity is entirely absent. There’s lots of organic activity on the menu, plus an exciting spread of eco-coffee from far-flung nations. Find all this done in a post-industrial interior that makes use of lots of concrete and natural light.

Cukiernia Stary Dom ul. Puławska 104/106, tel. 22 646 4208, open 12:00-23:30, restauracjastarydom.pl A beautifully elegant confectionary that evokes memories of Old Poland. Flock wallpaper and checkered floors add to the high tea ambience, as do the lines of glinting bottles and a counter stocked with temptations. Pastry chef Mariusz Palarczykow is a king in his field.

Latający Obiekt (D7) Oleandrów 3, tel. 732 870 780, open MonSat 18:00-23:00 “I like Frisbee, I like beer – that’s why I created this place,” so says Piotr, the owner. Made in Canada Frisbees come in all colors and shapes (even mini-size for mutts), and are complimented by regional beers and homemade biscuits. A bizarre find in Poland – likely the first of its kind.

Czuły Barbarzyńca ul. Dobra 31, open 10:00-22:00; Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, czuly.pl A Parisian-style bookstore full of steps and

Między Nami (D4) ul. Bracka 20, tel. 22 828 5417, open Mon-Wed 10:00-23:00; Thu 10:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun14:00-23:00, www.

miedzynamicafe.com With 18 years of service under their belt you may think of Między Nami as being an antiquated has-been.

Not so. Haunted by a mix of media types and local characters, this hip white piece of post-commie Warsaw has an enduring, almost timeless appeal.

Ministerstwo Kawy (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 27/35, tel. 503 080 906, open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:0022:00, www.ministerstwokawy.pl Sourcing their coffee from Koppi, an internationally acclaimed Swedish roasting house, the ministry takes no short cuts in their pursuit of excellence. Utilizing Ethiopian, Costa Rican and Brazilian arabicas – some exclusive to Poland – barista Wojciech Rzytki has earned a reputation across Poland for his expert hand. Rave reviews are standard and appropriate in this standout cafe.

BEST WAWA 2014 “Coffee” MiTo (D6) ul. Waryńskiego 28, tel. 22 629 0815, open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-23:00, www.mito.art.pl Café, gallery, bookstore.

Of course, we’ve seen that concept before, just not done in this style. Stark white backgrounds are offset by edgy art, lending the place a Tate Modern feel, something accentuated by the earnest fashion students who gather through the day. And there’s the toilet, a futuristic affair with piped music and a mirrored wall. my’o’my (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8 (enter from Górskiego), open Mon 11:00-22:00; Tue-Thu 10:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-21:00, www. myomy.pl Slightly rustic in design, with wooden panels painted white and winding stairs that lead to a charming second floor.

The baked goods are courtesy of baker extraordinaire Zofia Różycka, and the rest of the food offer is pretty grand as well. Its popularity with Warsaw’s mid-20s set makes it occasionally claustrophobic.

Niezłe Ziółko Café & Deli (D5) ul. Krucza 17, tel. 664 844 439 A shrine to pure and healthy eating, this friendly café doesn’t just brew a great coffee, but bakes its own bread and produces its own yogurt.

Sit in the loft to look down on shoppers scurrying to Mokotowska, and on the way out, check out ‘Grandma’s Cupboard’ in the corner: jams, spreads and olive oils are there to buy for home. www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / cafés & wine bars Odette ul. Górskiego 6/07, open Tue-Sun 10:0020:00; Mon 13:00-20:00, odette.pl Almost holistic in its ambience, the obstacle-free interior utilizes aspects of space and light, causing attention to naturally fall on the long, sleek counter that occupies one end. It’s here that Piotr Chylarecki’s sweet creations glimmer behind glass like precious little gems. Constructed in the adjoining ‘food lab’, these are desserts fit to grace fine dining moments.

OSiR ul. Tamka 40, open Sun-Thu 16:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 16:00-2:00 OSiR’s manifesto declares it a ‘cycle culture’ café, which means incoming guests should brace for all kinds of bike related props in this urban, raw and ready hideout. Beyond the cycling propaganda, there’s much to recommend: rare find beers, street-style hot dogs, and a cool, tranquil crowd that livens up for DJ sets at the weekend from the likes of London Massive and Kool & the Funk.

Państwo Miasto (B1) ul. Andersa 29, tel. 22 400 9446, open 9:00-24:00, panstwomiasto.pl Is there anything better than sitting in a café, book in hand, while summer sunshine pours through the windows? We go to Państwo to do just that, an echoy, cavernous café with a young, lively crowd that’s keen on scholastic events and political causes. Never does it feel too trendy, or too hipster – it’s a place that’s all about atmosphere and friendship.

Relaks (E9) ul. Puławska 48, open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00; Sat 9:00-19:00; Sun 9:00-18:00 Generally travelling by tram for a cup of Joe sounds excessive, but that’s exactly what you’ll be doing on discovering Relaks. Expertly prepared, right down to the foam art, the baristas here use the finest imported machines and work only with fair trade, ‘specialty’ coffee. If you have time, the drip coffees are more than worth the wait. The interiors supply a retro accent, and are lapped up by a very fashion aware crowd.

Resort ul. Bielańska 1, open Mon-Fri 11:00-2:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-2:00 The main talking point here is a design that utilizes shopping trollies and street signs to serve as chairs and tables, and a pile of second-hand books to form the bar – there’s even a sofa constructed from a

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bathtub! Themes of recycling are taken to the limit in Resort, yet for all that it never looks junky or cheap. Concerts and comedy nights keep business ticking on quieter days.

Secret Life ul. Słowackiego 15/19, tel. 507 226 552, open Mon-Thu 8:00-21:00; Fri 8:00-22:00; Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 You might already be familiar with Secret Life of Things, a fab design store on the other end of town. Now the same minds have expanded their offer to include this café, a delightful spot that opened in summer. The deckchairs outside may have gone but the hype lingers on: an eclectic design marries a Scandinavian look to an eccentric spirit, while unpasteurized beers, organic teas and a locally sourced menu do the rest.

Think Love Juices ul. Francuska 14, tel. 516 182 029, open 8:00-22:00, thinklove.pl Nutrition nut and supermodel Anna Jagodzińska reveals the secrets of her diet in this white-clad, summery-looking Saska café. As the name indicates, juice plays a massive part in that, with the rotating choice presenting a range of drinks that run from watermelon water all the way up to complex concoctions that ignore any shortcuts. The daily changing lunch deals are superb, but leave you in no doubt just why models are so skinny.

Waff-Love (E4) ul. Senatorska 28, tel. 502 635 222, open Mon-Fri 8:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-20:00, wafflove.pl Upon entering the petit premises the homey waft of sweet crispy batter hits your senses, and while the waffles are less sweet than your traditional Belgian product, after a mountain of toppings you’d be hard pushed to notice. Kiss dietary resolutions goodbye...

WakeCup Café (C1) ul. Franciszkańska 14, tel. 503 113 240, open Mon-Fri 7:00-21:00; Sat-Sun 8:00-21:00, wakecupcafe.pl A superb discovery landed in the no-man’s land that straddles New Town and Muranów. WakeCup don’t believe in taking coffee shortcuts (recommended: raspberry frappe), and have a fiendish obsession with beans from Brazil.

Also notable and noteworthy for their fruity cocktails, pastries and energetic café buzz.

Wars i Sawa (E3) ul. Dobra 14/16, tel. 796 880 822 or 793

567 125. open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-21:00 Creaking floorboards, unfinished plastering and piles of books set the tone to this ‘culture café’.

It’s exactly what you’d expect of Powiśle, and the sort of stop best enjoyed on your own with a pot of tea, a dog-eared novel and your tightest skinny jeans.

Wrzenie Świata ul. Gałczyńskiego 7 tel. 22 828 4998, open 9:00-22:00 Those with journalistic leanings love Wrzenie Świata. It’s definitely more Macbook than Moleskine, but this bookstore/ café attracts plenty of readers (and writers) to its book-lined interior. Buzzing like a cafe should, it packs out for slideshows and seminars.

Wypoczynkownia ul. Hoża 29/31, open Mon-Sat 7:30-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00, wypoczynkownia.pl While this place sounds like a Scrabble winner, its true role is as a fab neighborhood café that prides itself on its Arabicas and freshly-baked goods. Sporting a comfortably cosmopolitan style, the only improvement would be the forced confiscation of the requisite Keep Calm sign: get rid of it and the world is yours!

Znak Zapytania (E9) ul. Puławska 42, open Mon-Fri 11:00-1:00; Sat 16:00-2:00 Zap is the kind of place you wished you had next door: lively, a little hidden and carefully decorated: bricks walls, contemporary sofas and zippy graphics.

Drinks include the botanical tastes of Fentimans, homemade lemonades and artisan beers, and to go with those there’s a daily menu big on seasonal produce.

ice cream Budka z Lodami (H4) ul. Francuska 30 This innocuous wooden cabin has become a summer staple for Sunday Saska strollers. Natural ingredients and creative flavor combinations have installed it as a legend. Just brilliant.

Chmiel Café (D4) ul. Chmielna 27/31, open Sun-Thu 10:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-last guest, chmielcafe.pl Rows and rows of Belgian beers occupy the shelves, while behind the counter find pedigree treats, cakes and ice cream from the Slow Food

listings / cafés & wine bars approved Consonni brand. Forget the industrial rubbish, the ice cream produced by this lot is an absolute standout. With the outdoor terrace making its debut, it’s the ideal family solution with something for everyone.

La Maison (B3) ul. Chłodna 15 The flavors aren’t the most experimental found in Warsaw, but we’ve yet to find a better strawberry ice cream in the city: it’s stuff that makes you go ‘wow’.

Limoni Canteri 1952 (E9) various locations, inc. Dąbrowskiego 1 An artisan Italian gelato stop. The Venetian-born owner thrives on experimentation, with traditional flavors matched by the inclusion of oddities such as cucumber, beer and, even, ice cream for your dog!

Lody Prawdziwe (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 22 While the original on Świętokrzyska 30 is still alive, expect their new location to be the one that gets the crowds – big crowds. Priding themselves on the provenance of their ingredients, past picks from this artisan producer include Colombian coffee, Oreo and Madagascan vanilla. Others still swoon over their cherry choice.

Malinova (D9) Al. Niepodłegości 130 Some argue this is the best ice cream in the city, it’s certainly one of the most famous. Opened in 2001 – vintage

by Warsaw standards – there’s an old-school feel to this cult classic.

Sucre ul. Mokotowsa 12, ul. Żurawia 26, ul.

Chmielna 26, sucre.pl Nothing more than a hole-in-a-wall, and yet ever since opening last year Sucre have come to be considered the best in the trade when it comes to natural ice cream. Let the steady queue speak for itself.

wine bars Ale Wino! (E5) ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 628 3830, open Mon-Tue 10:00-22:00; Wed-Sat 10:00-24:00, www.alewino.pl At first you think you’re walking into a car park. And then, it hits you – a beautiful inner-city sanctum with wooden decking, a slanted sail shielding the sun, and bespoke, funky chairs from the esteemed Studio Rygalik. You want to dwell here for a bit longer than planned:

and there’s no harm in doing so. One of the Insider’s favorite wine bars, Ale Wino’s food is also top-notch. BEST WAWA 2014 “Wine Bar” Bristol Wine Bar (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmiescie 42/44. open 12:00-23:00 Effortlessly evoking a real sense of history, the design is a triumph with lots of polished brass and nickel, rich wood finishes and marble floors. You feel like you’ve stepped into a film. But talking points aren’t limited to the interiors alone.

The wine selection was personally overseen

by Robert Mielżyński, possibly the most esteemed wine importer in the country. And the choice is prodigious. Offering a complete cruise through the wines of the Old Continent and the New World, the collection is precisely presented from behind glass cases that line the walls.

Charlotte (D6) ul. Aleja Wyzwolenia 18 (enter from pl.

Zbawiciela), www.bistrocharlotte.com It matters not if you’re easily traumatized by the catwalk parade that is Charlotte. Open from seven on weekdays, it’s the place for a morning croissant. And if you’re armed with the latest Mac technology, all the better – join the other posers at the communal table.

Located on Warsaw’s most happening roundabout, there’s no better place to indulge a hangover with a spot of eavesdropping than inside this boulangerie/wine bar.

Hoża (D5) ul. Hoża 25a, tel. 515 037 001, open MonSat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, www.hoza.warszawa.pl You’ll probably know Hoża as the home of steak. But what is meat without wine? complementing the Argentineinspired cooking is a wine list particularly dense with reds.

Jung & Lecker (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 14, tel. 22 866 6749, open Mon-Thur 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00, www.jungilecker.pl Some think of this as a neighborhood wine bar – they’re clearly privileged, because if everyone had a Jung & Lecker next door it’d be a kind world indeed.

While the courtyard garden is a highlight, even in the sub-zero season there’s reason to swing by. Offering an intimate atmosphere and a strong menu, the finishing touch is provided by way of wines sourced directly from 15 wineries in Germany’s famed Pfalz, Rheinhessen, Rheingau and Mosel regions.

Heritage (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17, tel. 22 857 0912, open Mon-Sat 8:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-20:00 The gentrification of Zbawiciela continues with the appearance of Heritage, a place of tap wines, cobbled floors, and simple, well-thought interiors. With its crates, boxes, cans and tins, Heritage fill a binary role as a deli/wine store for an ascendant new money crowd.

Mielżyński Wine Bar (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 636 8709, open Mon-Fri 9:00-23:00; Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 11:30-17:00, www.mielzynski.pl Robert Mielżyński, a Canadian-born oenologist, awakened Warsaw’s love affair with the grape when he launched Mielżyński in 2004, and it continues to serve as the accepted benchmark to which all wine bars aspire.

Their cause is amply boosted by a fine selection of bites to accompany the superlative wine offer. Find it in a pared down warehouse that emanates casual city cool.

Mielżyński Wine Bar (G9) ul. Czerska 12, www.mielzynski.pl After three years in the pipeline Warsaw’s second outpost of Mielżyński is everything you’d expect: a concise menu that’s never too complex and an exciting wine choice that presents over 500 labels. This vibrant space promises much, not least on account of an inner terrace deck that you know is going to be the talk of this summer.

Portucale (E10) ul. Merliniego 2, tel. 22 898 0925, open 11:00-23:00, www.portucale.pl The rule here is to keep it simple. Stick to the truly amazing seafood and good house wine, both of which promise a terrific Portuguese experience. $$ Wejman ul. Zgoda 4, tel. 661 661 150, wejmanwinebar.pl The owners cooperated closely with acclaimed importer Guillaume Deliancourt to assemble a stock list dominated by Southern European – especially French – and New World wine. Try before you buy at this hotly trending wine bar.

WinKolekcja (E10) ul. Olkuska 7, www.winkolekcja.pl The selection of New World wines is exceptional, though classicists are also catered for via an extensive choice of Spanish, French and Italian wines. Their restaurant provides further reason to linger inside a design that has the routine look of a club class lounge. www.warsawinsider.pl

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nightlife NEW & NOTABLE

BAR AND BOOKS (ul. Wąski Dunaj 20, barandbooks.pl) New York-born Bar And Books mark their 25th anniversary with the opening of a Warsaw location set inside a restored townhouse by the Old Town walls. Inspired by the British colonial style, the bar’s onus is on cocktails, champagne and whisky, served in an interior that features an upper floor cigar lounge amid all the wood paneling and leather-bound tomes.

LOCAL NA MOKOTOWIE (ul. Sandomierska 13) Having enjoyed much success in Ursynów, Local inch their way a little closer to the center with the opening of a Mokotów branch. Looking to breathe energy into a corner of Warsaw not exactly blessed with bars, the August opening has already captured the imagination: find a casual, urban atmosphere inside a venue that ambitiously aims to be more than just a bar, but also something of a cultural anchor.

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bars & pubs 6 Cocktails (E5) ul. Mokotowska 57 Taking its lead from the New York fad for covert bars, the 6 adventure begins in front of a heavy arched gate. Ring the bell, await the buzz of approval and then find yourself summoned into rambling apartment that feels sultry and sensual.

Complete with a shadowy smoking lounge and a whirlpool tub in the bathroom, it’s the best secret in Warsaw. To enjoy the bespoke cocktails yourself, message them on Facebook and await your invite…

Bar Wieczorny ul. Wiśniowa 46, barwieczorny.pl Preparing for their first summer, it’s going to be one helluva’ place to visit once the weather heats up: that garden is going to get naughty! The cocktails are serious here, with top quality spirits (Vestal, Baczewski, Woodford Reserve) used with equally big name mixes (Fentimans, Big Tom, etc.). Further, you’ll find it’s the right products in the right hands – the staff really know their game.

Bazar (F1) ul. Jagiellońska 13, tel. 508 321 264, open 12:00-last guest There’s Krusovice, Bernard and Staropramen on tap, and the Czech slant is lent added meat by a series of evenings held in cahoots with the Czech Cultural Centre – it’s during boozy disco nights the party spills into a shadowy cellar with light retro hints. On ground level its raw and industrial with asphalt colors and overhead pipes. You wouldn’t expect it, but the margaritas are smashing.

Beirut (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, open daily 12:00-4:00, www.beirut.com.pl As hip as ever, Beirut has walls dusted with cult album covers, documentary posters and witty graffiti inspired by Banksy. Busy in the day, and absolutely packed at night, order unconventional beers (Noteckie, English ale, Erdinger) from androgynous staff standing behind a sandbag bar decorated with silver hand grenades and a model tank.

Berlin-Warszawa Express (D5) Most Poniatowskiego (corner of Kruczkowskiego and al. 3 Maja), open 18:00-1:00;

listings / nightlife Fri-Sat 18:00-3:00 Set up a flight of stairs, a concrete footbridge at the top links the two bars either side: Berlin and Warszawa.

It’s a Matrix moment, the red pill or the blue? Berlin’s the better, with industrial cage lights, and salvaged DDR memorabilia.

Surveying the scene, it’s all wobbly tables, sticky surfaces and tight little alcoves fitted into impossible spaces. A great dive bar, the friendly nature of Berlin gets even friendlier after a few craft brews.

Bierhalle (A1) Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), ul. Nowy Świat 64, ul. Marszałkowska 55/73, open 11:00-last guest, bierhalle.pl Having tapped their first beer six or seven years back, their microbrewery have morphed into a national phenomenon with outposts across the country. All three Warsaw locations have a cut/paste Bavarian atmosphere, hefty wooden fittings and waitresses dressed like mountain frauleins.

Bollywood Lounge (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, tel. 22 827 0283, open Sun-Thu 12:00-3:00; Fri 12:00-6:00; Sat 14:00-6:00, www.bollywoodlounge.pl Now on Nowy Świat, the team have used the opportunity to upgrade their offer: gone is that low-rent feel of old, replaced in favor of a more classy look and a slicker crowd.

What has remained constant is the energy.

Ace cocktails (recommended: Jim Ban Chili), tottering talent and a range of sheesha pipes make it a weekend must, though the big news is the completion of their downstairs club: check it out for the bright, banging beats of the Bollywood sound.

British Bulldog (D4) ul. Aleje Jerozolimskie 42, tel. 22 827 0020, open 11:00-1:00, www.bbpub.pl In terms of aesthetics it’s the most accurate replica of an English pub you’ll find. And they get a further nod for a brilliant covered terrace that’s great in all weather. Not that you’ll find many British expats in here, they’ve been boycotting the place ever since the dismissal of the original British manager. Judging by the poor standards of beer and food, you might want to follow their example. What could have become an expat legend is, in essence, a big wet plop of disappointment.

Browarmia (D3) ul. Królewska 1, tel. 22 826 5455, open daily 12:00-last guest, www.browarmia.pl A brewery first and foremost – and an

average one at that – full of pipes, valves and mysterious gauges. They still do their own brewing, but conscious of the shift towards artisan beer they’ve now also added around twenty taps to their offer. The choice is a little more pedestrian than the competition, but is nonetheless a pleasant sign of changing times. That it looks, feels and smells like a brewery makes it all the more welcome.

Bubbles (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 512 540 913, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:0024:00; Sun 12:00-18:00, bubbles.com. pl Despite sounding like a 90s small town nightclub, Bubbles is in fact a worthy place of note: a small, warm venue with a slow food menu and a design that incorporates lots of upturned crates and dusty bottles.

Champagne is the main draw here, with many labels that are exclusive to Poland. Some come with terrifying prices, but on the whole the price points are widely accessible: wine from zł. 10 and a flute of champers from zł. 29.

Cafe Kulturalna (C4) Palace of Culture, pl. Defilad 1, tel. 22 656 6281, open Mon-Sat 12:00-last guest; Sun 15:00-last guest, www.kulturalna.pl The location is unbeatable and visiting the Palace late at night is an amazing, almost mystical experience.

Ceska ul. Chmielna 35, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, ceska.pl Having promised to never return following an incident with a nincompoop waiter, we’ve done exactly the opposite… and become regulars! Views of scantily-clad shoppers wiggling down the street are one attraction, though the biggest is the Czech ‘tank’ pouring system. Order the mliko, a beer that’s all creamy froth that you can sink down in seconds.

Chmielarnia (B5) ul. Twarda 42 (basement level), tel. 22 890 77 05, open Mon-Thu 11:00-24:00; Fri 11:00-2:00; Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 12:0024:00, www.chmielarnia.waw.pl A subterranean multi-tap found in the depths of the fishing institute. Artisan beers rule the roost here (there’s 15 taps and stacks more beer in the fridge), a point underlined by a glass coffin of mainstream macro lager. While the bar gets loud and rackety, sweaty and sticky, that’s balanced out by a rotating beer offer that’s moderately priced plus a friendly,

earnest audience that’s all beer geeks and know-it-alls.

Chmielarnia Marszałkowska (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16, open Mon-Thu 11:00-24:00; Fri 11:00-2:00; Sat 12:002:00; Sun 12:00-24:00, chmielarnia.waw.pl With the tap war at its height, Chmielarnia hope to raise the stakes with their latest venture. Twelve taps and umpteen bottles comprise the offer, with a range of domestic and international players represented: among them Beavertown, Hoppin’ Frog and Fourpure. Less nerdy than their original, expect the latest Chmielarnia to hoover up bearded custom from nearby pl. Zbawiciela.

Coctail Bar Max (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 691 710 000, open daily 11:00-15:00, www.barmax. pl Can you trust a cocktail bar that can’t even spell the word? In this case, it’s a resounding yes. With its light wood touches and fruity montages Max looks bright, cheerful and fully loaded for the sun, and also comes with an alcove in the back stuffed with whisky and cigars. The cocktails are the main affair though, and here they’re extravagant efforts that resemble a tropical jungle in a miniature form. The only problem? By their very nature, cocktails aren’t concocted in two minutes flat – if it’s busy, waiting around is like Death by a Thousand Cuts.

Column Bar ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44 (Hotel Bristol), open 10:00-1:00 Just the look of Column Bar sweeps you off your feet; there’s something breathlessly classy about it, like you’ve just entered Gatsby’s ballroom. You want to order a pyramid of champagne and dance on their piano.

Behave, and order a cocktail instead. For a taste of the classics, the Column Bar is peerless. In summer, enjoy your drinks out in the beautifully tranquil courtyard.

Cuda Na Kiju (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, tel. 662 006 106, open 10:00-2:00, www.cudanakiju.pl Where it all began. Summer catches Warsaw’s original tap bar at its best, with the courtyard of the former Communist Party HQ now home to an entirely different kind of party: on occasions find food trucks and film screenings, and all other times just a massive crowd getting sloshed on 15 types of tap beer. www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / nightlife Cześć (C3) ul. Grzybowska 2 (through the side passage), tel. 505 695 512, open 16:00-last guest,2 www.czesc.waw.pl It started as a café, but now Cześć is better known as being at the forefront of the new generation of ‘quali-tap’ bars – small little places with six or so new wave beers on tap. The two owners, Piot and Kuba, take their beer seriously, so do expect plenty of new finds as well as traditional favorites from stalwarts like the Artezan and Pinta breweries. The laidback, neighborhood atmosphere is making it increasingly popular with a tight-knit circle of ex-pat drinkers.

Czeska Baszta (E4) Tower 22A, Most Poniatowskiego, open Tue-Thu, Sun 16:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 16:00-24:00; Sun 16:00-23:00, www. czeskabaszta.pl Set in one of those towers that props up Most Poniatowskiego, its surroundings look grim – at night even scary.

Bathed in a yellowish murk, it’s actually warm and welcoming, and the reason for that soon becomes apparent: everyone is drunk!

There’s 80 Czech beers to pick from, and they do more than enough to distract from the rattle and rumble of overhead trams and a swamp monster toilet.

Dandys Bar & Art Kafe (D6) ul. Piękna 15, tel. 883 588 388, open Tue-Thu 15:00-1:00; Fri-Sat 15:00-2:00; Sun 15:00-24:00, dandysbar.pl Dandys brings together the cream of Warsaw’s social scene inside a split-level bar that smacks of good

times and high living: this is a place created with ‘super sexy’ in mind. The top quality cocktails are befitting of the people and philosophy.

Elephant Belgian Pub (C1) ul. Freta 19, tel. 532 742 400, open Mon-Thu 14:00-23:00; Fri-Sun 12:00-23:00 Signposted by a jolly, dancing elephant, this Belgian pub presents its cause the moment you enter – there’s twenty or so taps laid right out in front, and to the left a fridge that’s expected to top out to cover 200 beers. The design is basic – brickwork, beer kegs and varying ephemera of the brewing trade – but it doesn’t need that much more: it’s about the beer, after all.

Gorączka Złota (D5) ul. Wilcza 29, tel. 22 625 6855, open MonFri 13:00-24:00; Sat 17:00-24:00, www.goraczka-zlota.com.pl Founded in 1996, Złota’s longevity is to be admired, even if the interiors aren’t. Small, dark and a little pungent, the interiors are rendered out of little more than varnished wood and hundreds of beer coasters. But that’s the clue! The secret of their success is down to the beer. Stocking a range of regional and craft beer (Ale Browar, Pinta, Kormoran, AltenMunster, Olbracht, etc.), this unfashionable bar has an underlying honesty that makes it a success.

Hard Rock Cafe ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700,

open daily 9:00-24:00, hardrockcafe.pl Full Throttle cocktails, lively staff and a classic rock soundtrack: the energy of HRC is hard to find fault with. And on the rare occasion there is a lull in the night, use the opportunity to sniff around memorabilia that includes a black leather number once worn

by Madonna.

Hoppiness ul. Chmielna 27/31, open 11:00-24:00 You’re in good hands here – opened under the patronage of the Pracownia brewery, this small-scale operation goes beyond merely offering the beers of its sponsor. There’s 12 taps in all, a decent fridge to geek over, an ace burger and beer-based ice cream – hooray!

Hopsters Al. Jana Pawła II 45 (enter from ul.

Nowolipki), open Mon-Thu 15:00-24:00; Fri 15:00-2:00; Sat 13:00-2:00; Sun 13:00-22:00 You get the idea they could have done a bit more with the interior, though the tendency is to overlook this. After all, any bar that goes to the trouble of fitting twenty taps deserves a bit of leeway. And fine things they are, these taps of theirs. There’s usually a couple of foreign guests on the day-to-day menu (Mikeller, Lindemans), but the main draw is undoubtedly from domestic brew houses like AleBrowar and Artezan, not to mention rising stars such as Doctor Brew and Podgórz.

Irish Pub (C2) ul. Miodowa 3, tel. 22 826 2533, open daily 11:00-last guest, www.irishpubmiodowa.pl Affecting a look that only an Irish pub can escape with – strange smells and chipped wood – this boozer is perhaps more noted for its live music and camaraderie than for anything else. There’s events practically every night, ranging from local rock acts to cool blues. If you failed the X Factor audition then do the next best thing and visit for karaoke night.

Jabeerwocky ul. Nowogrodzka 12, open Mon-Thu 13:0024:00; Fri-Sat 13:00-2:00; Sun 15:00-24:00, taproom.pl Prices go from affordable all the way up to, ‘bloody hell, how much!?’ Find a staggering choice on pump, tap and in the fridges, with the international selection accrued by true aficionados: the beers are brill, and so are some of the beards. We’re still awaiting the promised garden, so in

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listings / nightlife the meantime enjoy an appealingly coarse interior that features original tilework over 100 years old.

Kameralna (E4) ul. Foksal 11, tel. 887 878 731, open 12:00-24:00 With a militia truck outside, and interiors that feature cutlery by Społem and 70s newspapers on the walls, you’d be right to think we’ve got another venue that celebrates the past. Looking vast and comfortingly cluttered, Kameralna is both a restaurant and a nightspot – brewing their own beer, the house lagers are fine.

Karowa 31 ul. Karowa 31, open Tue 18:00-24:00; Wed 18:00-3:00; Thu 18:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 18:00-5:00, warsawbarproject.com Warsaw’s original speakeasy grants access via a retractable door disguised as a VHS collection – how cool is that!? Maze-like in layout, the retro-looking Karowa 31 unravels to reveal a series of chambers concealed in shadow, though for all that the cocktails are the real draw: masterful creations composed

by Bram, the former manager of the London Cocktail Club.

Kita Koguta (E5) ul. Krucza 6/14, tel. 512 307 284, open Mon-Thu 8:00-24:00; Fri 8:00-2:00; Sat 16:00-2:00 Free from the pompous prattery of Bar Max down the road, there are times in Kita Koguta where sitting at bar level is like watching Dexter’s Laboratory: the staff aren’t afraid to get imaginative, and that includes serving cocktails in smoking coconut husks.

Not all the experiments go as planned, but that’s part of the thrill – for a failsafe, order the Viterbo Breakfast: it looks like something that came out of a drainpipe, but it’s delicious!

Kraken Rum Bar (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, tel. 791 334 606, open daily 12:00-4:00 Named after one of the ocean’s most feared mythical creatures (the scary squid from Pirates of the Caribbean), the wood-clad Kraken features a wall of cymbals, heavy furniture and some interesting photography. While there’s some decent bottles of rum, there’s perhaps not enough to justify calling it a rum bar. The house beer rocks though.

Kufle i Kapsle (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 25, tel. 22 127 7218, open Mon-Thu 14:00-2:00; Fri 14:00-4:00; Sat

12:00-4:00; Sun 12:00-2:00, www.kufleikapsle.pl All levels of drinkers are catered for in this raw-looking space, from those ready to pay nosebleed prices for beers with spaceships on the label, right the way down to novices taking their first baby steps in the world of craft booze. Interiors are balanced with the pre-war heritage of the place, and are thick with noise, clamor and the spell of spillage. Unisex toilets, meaning there’s usually one idiotka putting a spanner in the queue code.

Kwadrat (D5) ul. Poznańska 7, tel. 790 010 088, open Mon-Fri 16:00-last guest; Sat 18:00-last guest, www.kwadrat.waw.pl Nights get blurry in Kwadrat, one of the first bars in town to spread the gospel of regional and new wave beer. Enjoy it alongside an amiable, late 20s crowd.

Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri 11:0002:00; Sat 12:00-02:00, Sun 12:00-23:00, www.legendsbar.pl Legends is slowly achieving legendary status amongst the expats and Anglophiles. Their cause is helped by touches like a segregated smoking room, proper darts board, Sky Sports and a traditional menu that’s as authentically English as the Downing Street cat. Most of all though, the success is down to the sense of community fostered over long quiz nights, shouty karaoke competitions and Presiding over it all is Graham, a seasoned expat and Everton nut.

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Lolek (A8) ul. Rokitnicka 20 (Pole Mokotowskie), tel. 22 825 6202, open daily 11:00-03:00, www.lolekpub.pl A boisterous pub with a Bavarian, bacchanal spirit and a parkcentered location. Strangers squish together on shaky benches while sausages grill over an open fire inside this classic rough-andready drinkery. Catch it at its best in summer when the outdoor seating is thronged.

Małe Piwo (D7) ul. Oleandrów 4. tel. 510 905 592, open Mon-Thu 16:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 16:00-24:00; Sun 16:00-23:00 Hands up who loves good beer? Thought so. Małe Piwo have been a sensation since opening, preempting the craft beer trend and in the process attracting huge crowds of every sub-section of the hipster community. The choice of bottles is

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listings / nightlife immense, and enjoyed in an edgy, dive bar background that’s snugger than a mouse’s waistcoat.

Miłość Kredytowa 9 ul. Kredytowa 9, open 9:00-6:00 Firstly, there’s the bar. It’s stunning: concrete slabs, a vertical wall of greenery and a DJ platform that doubles as a kitchen on weekends.

The upstairs mezzanine is the best spot for voyeurs, and it’s here that a series of rooms unravel revealing a bookstore, deli and a lumbersexual barber shop. It is ultimately the bar that is the center force though, and it’s here you’ll find one-of-a-kind bottled cocktails that use natural ingredients, not to mention the full offer from Perła.

Multitap Bla Bla ul. Nowogrodzka 22, open 14:00-2:00, blabla.com.pl Looking murky and in need of a good scrub (and that’s just the glasses), you feel Bla Bla is simply here to suck up overspill from its more high-profile neighbors. Ten taps here, usually carrying beers you know inside out. But you will find a seat and there’s a kebab shop next door.

Na Lato (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44, tel. 692 280 094, open Mon 8:00-23:00; Tue-Thu 8:00-1:00; Fri 8:00-5:00; Sat 10:00-5:00; Sun 10:00-24:00 Once derided as a hipster haunt, the twits have moved on, replaced instead by an increasingly on-trend crowd of rich young things. The cocktails are without doubt up there with the best in Wa-wa and the onset of sunshine means you can enjoy them on the expanse of greenery directly outside.

Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’ (D4) Enter from ul. Nowy Świat 26 Approximately twenty bars occupy a series of low-budget prefabricated cabins, presenting possibly the highest density of bars in the capital: in summer, it feels like one big street party.

Adding to the gentle sense of confusion comes the realization that so many bars look the same – accessed through clattery, barred doors, visitors walk into what can only be described as murk. Klaps, with its dildo beer taps and phallic walls, is probably the most well-known of the lot.

Oleandrów 3 (D6) ul. Oleandrów 3, open Sun-Thu 12:00-24:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-1:00 Exploring themes of decadence and fallen splendor, this new opening cements Oleandrów’s status as one

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of Warsaw’s rising streets. Looking dark and disheveled, this busy nightspot is already earning a name for libertine shenanigans.

The blackboard menu touts an unlikely combo of ‘hot dogs and champagne’ – watch others follow suit.

OSP Saka Kępa ul. Walecznych 74, tel. 603 103 888, open Mon-Thu 15:00-24:00; Sat 13:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-22:00, www.ospsaskakepa.pl A little on the small side, the interior features several bits of Fireman Sam detritus: helmets, goggles, a uniform and some toy fire trucks (it’s in a fully functioning fire station!).

Panorama Bar and Lounge (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 630 6306, open Mon-Sun 18:002:00, www.panoramabar.pl An elegant bar that would easily pass for the VIP room of a well-to-do club. A floor 40 location makes it great for a date: the sunset views are dazzling.

Paradox (B1) ul. Anielewicza 2, tel. 691 472 969, open Sun-Thu 10:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-2:00; Sun 10:00-23:00, www.paradox-cafe.pl Billing themselves as a ‘sci-fi / gamers / role play asylum’ this is a cradle of geeks, nerds and people who collect serial killer memorabilia. Decorated with plastic black crows, a map of Mordor and figurines of goblins, watch as oddly attired suspects engross themselves in ‘for hire’ games with names like Hobbit and Bewoulf.

Parking Bar (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 27, tel. 501 623 456 or 537 606 897, open Sun-Thu 16:00-2:00; Fri-Sat 17:00-6:00, www.parkingbar.eu It looks raw and ready, but then what did you expect from a place on the ground floor of a car park. Plentiful concrete, mesh fences and swinging car tire seats lend it unique characteristics, as do the drinks: the creative cocktails are served in small little jars. At times it feels a bit slow, but that changes on their weekend club nights.

Patera (C4) ul. Świętokrzyska 36, tel. 535 333 123, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00; Sun 11:00-23:00, www.patera. com.plPatera fill a binary role: first as an

Asian eatery, and second as a cocktail bar.

And my, what cocktails. Offering several classics, and a few modern creations, the Ginger Peach Collins became our cocktail of choice during summer 2014. The reopening of Świętokrzyska should lead a few more people through the door – they’ll like what they see.

Pies Czy Suka (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8A, tel. 22 881 83 73, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00; Sun 16:00-23:00, www.piesczysuka.com Monochrome gun metal grey colors are offset by a fashionable crowd attired in red shoes, pink trousers and blue headphones.

This clean, concrete space is speckled with plaster moldings of reindeer heads, and excels on the cocktail front. Order from an iPad menu, before settling back for cocktails made using mad scientist, molecular techniques that involve foam, vapor, beakers and other things you’d usually find in Professor Yaffle’s lab.

Piw Paw (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34 (enter from ul.

Parkingowa), tel. 534 734 500, open 24 hrs We don’t like: the sweaty toilet, strange smells and queue scrum. We do like: the 24hr opening hours, humongous fridge and 50+ taps. Seen in the light it’s a little depressing, so visit at night when Parkingowa takes on the look of an end-of-term street party.

Piw Paw na Foksal (E4) ul. Foksal 16, tel. 534 734 945, open 16:00-last guest, piwpaw.pl If the original Piw Paw was marketed as a ‘hyper tap’ then what’s their sister on Foksal? There’s 97 taps (!!) though one gets the sense its more about numbers than quality – we’ve seen Beck’s, for Pete’s sake. Getting service can be a nightmare, and while there’s a smoking room, it’s got the warmth and ambience of a night down the police station.

Plac Barcelona (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 18, tel. 501 988 768, open Sun-Thu 9:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 9:00-1:00 Those who think this area’s star has waned need look no further than Plac Barcelona, a pristine bar with a star studded clientele.

The interiors feature stark white colors and an interesting multi-level seating arrangement. Most, however, prefer to give themselves maximum exposure and do both their sipping and sitting outdoors.

listings / nightlife Plan B (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 508 316 976, open Mon-Sun 11:00-last guest. www.planb.pl Plan B is the very essence of dive Warsaw. Weekends pass by in a raucous blur, with the party spilling out under the colonnades outside – it helps to look like a DJ, but in truth everyone is welcome. The hangover from this shabby, grubby bar is traumatic.

Pociąg do Piwa ul. Dereniowa 2, tel. 501 022 890, open 14:00-last guest Jumping onto the multi-tap bandwagon is Pociąg do Piwa, a smallish locale whose one design element is a steam engine traced into the wall using bottle tops.

There’s 12 taps in all, and they primarily distribute cult Polish beers from the likes of Pinta and AleBrowar.

Polonez (D5) ul. Poznańska 24, tel. 604 942 169, open Sun-Wed 10:00-1:00; Thu 10:00-2:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-3:00 Sparse milk bar chic is set against plenty of oddities (black and white Cybulski films, a set of antlers, hordes of junk), but the cool aesthetics only tell a part of the story. This is a celebration of Poland, both old and new, with drinks that include obscure nalewki, craft local beers, bio drinks and regional tipples. The masterstroke comes in making this all feel international, contemporary and creative.

Same Krafty (D1) ul. Nowomiejska 10, tel. 22 831 98 75, open 15:00-last guest Set across two small, rugged rooms, Same Krafty gets populated by an organic combination of tourists, couples and beer enthusiasts. There’s ten taps from which to choose, and a fridge with several interesting international beers. The Old Town doesn’t have much to shout about when it comes to nightlife, so Same Krafty’s debut is more than welcome.

Sketch w Teatrze Wielkim (D2) Pl. Piłsudkiego 9, tel. 602 762 764, open 12:00-1:00, sketch.pl Here’s a multi tap bar designed with a very specific crowd in mind: glam stylists, models with sleeve tattoos and other vapid morons. Looking bold, bright and brash, this is just about the worst tap bar Warsaw has ever seen. The beer aspect is purely incidental. You get the idea this mob would be here if the pipes were hooked up to the udders of a cow – so long as milk was in fashion. Yuck.

Spiskowcy Rozkoszy (D5) ul. Żurawia 47/49, tel. 796 671 950, open Mon-Thu 16:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 16:00-1:00; Sun 16:00-23:00, www.spiskowcy.pl The ground floor is an intimate space with lots of yet-to-be-famous beers and junky, antique furniture that reminds of the Boho hangouts in Kraków. But what was a packed, little bar is now a packed, big bar with the opening of the basement: find a labyrinth of rooms and psychedelic toilets with pulsating lights – you soon wonder who spiked your drink. And oh, the drinks. Expect IPA and APA beers served from the six taps.

Syreni Śpiew ul. Szara 10A, tel. 602 773 293, open Tue-Thu 20:00-2:00; Fri-Sat 19:00-6:00, syrenispiew.pl Set in a beautifully restored piece of PRL concrete, Syreni Śpiew’s lasting popularity has proved the doubters wrong.

This is not some one season wonder, rather a place that has gone from strength to strength. Primarily known for its hefty whisky offer (which is divided into regions of Scotland, Ireland and Japan), the cocktails also stand up to scrutiny on account of their consistent quality. A genuinely unique drinking experience with cool elements of retro chic.

Syzyszka Chmielu Al. KEN 36, open Mon-Thu 16:00-24:00; Fri 16:00-2:00; Sat 15:00-2:00; Sun 15:00-24:00, pubszyszkachmielu.pl The beer scene is Ursynów is seriously hopping up. First came Pociąg Do Piwa, then Vyceska, and now this tongue twister. The 14 taps offer largely safe local options, so head to the fridge for adventurous brews from the likes of Mikeller, AleSmith and Nogne O. In an added plus, this is just about the first tap bar that realizes that some people out there like football: it’s filled with slick screens beaming the big match.

The View ul. Twarda 18, theview.pl Sat on top of the Spektrum Tower this bar/club looks set to reinvent the whole concept of going out in Warsaw. A truly world-class venture, the open-air deck on the 32nd floor offers striking views of the cityscape, first rate cocktails and an international rotation of DJs. The look is sleek and stylish.

W Oparach Absurdu ul. Ząbkowska 6, open Sun-Mon 12:002:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-4:00 Hidden under Persian rugs, velvety drapes and reclaimed antiques, some still refer to it as The Spider Bar in reference to the giant tarantula that once hung from the wall. There’s an air of louche 60s living here, and it gets weirder when bands with names like the Bum Bum Orchestra enter to play trumpets amongst vodka-tipping guests.

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listings / nightlife open Mon-Fri 11:00-last guest; Sat-Sun 9:00-last guest, www.warszawapowisle.pl The prime months for this former ticket booth arrive each summer when the deckchairs outside provide ample opportunity for the city’s young and fashionable to gather in an almost carnival-like atmosphere. Seen as a hipster Center of Power, you’ll know if you belong.

Weles (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 11, tel. 602 773 997, open Sun-Thu 17:00-2:00; Fri-Sat 17:00-4:00 A swing of the door takes visitors plunging down a blacked-out stairwell and into a basement that emerges from the darkness like a decadent Tsarist relic: glinting chandeliers glimmer over deep leather sofas, their subtle light casting a glow over an immaculate clientele comprised of city movers. Befitting the venue, the artisanal cocktails are a work of elaborate craftsmanship, and incorporate everything from elite liquors to strips of bacon and flower petals.

Zorza ul. Żurawia 6/12, open 7:00-2:00, www. zorzabistro.pl Slotted inside what was once Café 6/12, Zorza embellishes the venue’s ascetic PRL style with licks of art deco: it’s an unlikely marriage that manages to work. But with even the sun sweating this summer, do your pecking, picking, sipping and supping on an outdoor terrace set-up that encourages mingling and interaction.

clubs Capitol Theatre and Club (C3) ul. Marszałkowska 115, tel. 22 826 8570, www.clubcapitol.pl An extravagant dance space with sparkly chandeliers, regal staircases and a modern Moscow, over-the-top style. Mark the Hed Kandi events in your diary for a night to remember.

De Lite (E5) ul. Marii Konopnickiej 6, tel. 792 014 166, www.deliteclub.pl This place definitely figures highly in the ‘bubbles and beauties’ stakes. Scantily clad dates bop along sipping on martinis, flirting and dancing, while exposed brick and pipes, raw concrete and an interesting mirror setup in the bathrooms add to the futuristic, spaceship interior.

Enklawa (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 22 827 3151, open

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Wed-Sat 22:00-4:00, www.enklawa.com Forget internet dating, Enklawa is the best pick-up joint around – a classic kitschy, glitzy disco, it draws in huge crowds with a simple lineup of pop and dance hits. Still regarded as the best Wednesday night in Warsaw, it’s the place for singletons looking for a one night confidence boost.

Foksal XVIII (E4) ul. Foksal 18, open Fri-Sat 10:00-4:00 Billed as one of the top ‘rich and pretty’ clubs in the capital, Foksal features a competitive ‘look at me’ spirit and flash interiors that are all chandeliers and champagne. Cardboard animal shapes hanging from the bar inject much needed humor to this cream of the crop club. Don’t even think of trying to gain entry without first tipping a bottle of aftershave down your pants.

Level 27 Al. Jerzolimskie 123 (Millennium Building), open Tue-Sun 13:00-5:00, level27.pl Set on the 27th floor of the Millennium Building, Level 27 promises a world class clubbing experience with open air views of the city down below. In more ways than one, you’ll rarely feel closer to the stars.

Luztro (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, open Wed-Thu 22:00-10:00; Fri-Sat 24:00-14:00, www. luztro.pl Feeling naughty? Luztro enjoys a reputation for libertine behavior and illicit pharmaceuticals. Dark, grim and grotty, this after party stalwart gets going at about 4 a.m. on weekends, when troglodyte club creatures emerge zombie-like to dance way past sunrise. Jaw grinding, rib rattling electro has never felt better.

Platinium (D3) ul. Fredry 6, tel. 694 413 439, open Thu-Sat 21:00-6:00. www.platiniumclub.pl The place if you’re rich or beautiful – but preferably both. Large and spectacular you’ll need to be dressed to the nines to reap the rewards that lie inside: featuring the most eye candy per sq/m in Europe, you might not find Mr/Mrs Right, but you will find Mr/Mrs Right for Now. Sen Pszczoły ul. Grochowska 301/305, tel. 530 360 060, senpszczoly.pl Famous, infamous or a bit of both? Moving from their temporary digs in the Koneser Factory, the new-look Sen Pszczoły is every bit as murky as the previous: amid a heavy industrial background,

find partygoers enjoying a mixed bag of events that range from didgeridoo performances to full-on techno that makes fillings pop out.

gentleman’s clubs Playhouse (B3) Al. Solidarności 82A, tel. 794 007 000, open 21:00-4:00, www.playhouse.pl Not here gorilla gangsters on the door or pushy girls doing the rounds (“buy me drinky drinky”).

Instead, Playhouse models itself on the top class mega clubs such as Spearmint Rhino, and the result is a subterranean space removed from the sleaze and murk usually associated with the industry. But you want to know what the girls are like, yeah? Let the fact askmen.com voted it their favorite strip in the world speak for itself.

live music Chwila (B3) ul. Ogrodowa 31/35 Entered under a red, cabaret-style awning, Chwila is a reject factory space turned good. Furry cushions, patchwork quilts and student art vie for attention alongside iron girders and industrial leftovers inside what is becoming known as one of the top alternative music venues this side of the river. The toilet alone, papered with trillions of cool posters and magazine covers, is a reason to linger.

Klub 12/14 ul. Piwna 12/14, open 12:00-24:00, 12on14club.com Sometimes you’ve got to ask, just where are all the jazz bars? Well, at last the void has been filled with the entry of Klub 12/14 on the market. A schedule of daily evening concerts, a decent uncomplicated menu and a smart white design make it a welcome addition to the Old Town.

Pardon To Tu (C4) Pl. Grzybowski 12/16, tel. 513 191 641, open 10:00-4:00, www.pardontotu.pl Decorated in voluptuous brothel colors, the design involves mismatched seats, tilted lampshades and a relaxed arthouse look popular with creatives and other fringe dwellers. The live talent ranges from moody quartets to jazzy chanteuses, while a perfect marriage of late hours and great bottled beers helps along the enthusiastic crowd of latter day beatniks.

shopping accessories Agent Provocateur ul. Mokotowska 59, tel. 22 273 6162, www.agentprovocateur.com The boutique is stocked full of the latest collection – gorgeous lacy bras with scrumptious attention to detail, matching panties, teddies and a bunch of strappy get-ups you can only get away with if you’re very fit or very confident, but preferably both. And if that’s not enough, they’ve got sexy stockings, silk robes, perfume, satin gloves, a blindfold and nipple tassels…

SHOPPING FOR SCHOOL! ‘Back to school’ in Poland is not quite it says on the tin. Yes the kids go back on September 1st, but two hours later, after a short meetand-greet with their new teacher, there they are again at the mall with a lengthy shopping list of school supplies needed for the next day!

MIVO KIDS (mivokids.pl) The Mivo store, located in Blue City, specializes in children’s footwear. What’s not in store can be ordered from the extensive collection online. Geox, Ecco and Clarks are available at competitive prices as well as Converse and a funky collection of kids VANS! SMART SCHOOL BAG (smartschoolbag.com) The right baggage is essential to your child’s good health. Sturdy, spacious, weather-proof bags on wheels that don’t look like grandma’s shopping trolley are the criteria and ‘Smart Schoolbag’ ticks all those boxes. Starting at €79 they’re not cheap but they are ready to stand the test of a Polish Education.

EXCELLENT OFFICE (excellentoffice.pl) Despite the advance of technology the list of stationary and accessory requirements for a well-organized student remains much the same: pen, pencil, snazzy pencil case, eraser, rulers and a calculator make the shortlist followed by the bully-stabbing ‘safety’ compass! Practically everything your child needs to look and feel top of the class!

BACK TO SCHOOL GRAND BAZAR City markets are where Polish designers showcase and sell trending fashion and accessories. If your family favor original, handmade and local design then check this event on Saturday September 5th.

Hosted inside Bracka 25, for further details search them out on Facebook. (GBB)

Bath & Body Works ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00, ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 The famed American brand signals its arrival to Europe with the launch of their Warsaw branch. Now fans of the brand can experience first-hand luxurious fragrant body care, hand and home collections.

Customers can discover sophisticated fragrances, test shower gels and soaps at the sink area, and try everything from body lotions to home fragrances.

HOS&me ul. Mokotowska 63, tel. 22 625 0881, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 12:00-15:00, www.mokotowska63.com Luxury jewelry and the best in the biz. In stock: high end treasures from Nialaya, Lene Bjerre Design, Ti Sento, Christensen and Dryberg/Kern.

Impossible Project ul. Mysia 3, tel. 884 867 518, open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-18:00. The Polaroid comes back to life in Impossible Project, a place with refurbished original cameras as well as new film formula.

Mo61 ul. Mokotowska 61, tel. 601 652 593, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, mo61.pl Billed as a ‘perfume laboratory’, Mo61 is the only place in Poland that allows customers to create their own scents. Under the expert guidance of staff trained by Zygmunt Marczewski (“the best nose in Poland”!), visitors compose their www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / shopping own perfumes inside a beautifully renovated pre-war space.

Pingle Optyk ul. Hoża 40, tel. 798 025 505, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-14:00 A collection of hand-selected eyewear that is serious in terms of quality control, but entirely whimsical when it comes to design. Yes, you’ve got your ubiquitous Ray Ban classics, but you’ve also got the electric blue version. You’ve got your Chanel and YSL classics, then there are the leather-trimmed frames from Paul Smith and many more funky models straight from Paris.

Pracownia Czasu ul. Wiejska 14, pracowniaczasu.pl A true market leader with brands including Paul Picot, Graham London, Vulcain, Cuervo y Sobrinos, Ulysse Nardin and so many more.

Victoria’s Secret Beauty & Accessories ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 665 625 618, open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00, ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), tel.

22 541 4141, Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 An assortment of Victoria’s Secret Beauty products including fun and flirty fragrances, such as Bombshell, as well as the scented VS Fantasies body care range.

For that glam girl-on-the go, expect to find a wide range of Victoria’s Secret branded bags, luggage, passport covers and small leather goods to cosmetic bags, bangles and key fobs.

antiques Kolo ul. Obozowa 99, www.gieldastaroci.waw.pl What looks like a soggy tent city transforms each Sunday morning into a hopelessly addictive flea market offering wartime militaria, religious icons, chinaware, furniture from unverified periods of history, and even the occasional suit of armor. Half-junkyard, half treasure trove, it’s an experience in itself.

Kwadryga ul. Wilcza 29, www.kwadryga.com Entered through a courtyard, it’s a magnet for bibliophiles, and groans with antique books, faded photographs, yellowing maps and

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dog-eared magazines – the atmosphere is timeless. The PRL-era lifestyle magazines are an amazing insight into the past.

Prima Porta Antiquities ul. Moktowska 71, www.primaportaantiquities.com At the top end of the scale the German-run Prima Porta specialize in pieces from ancient Rome, Greece, Egypt, Mesopotamia and Asia. Formidable pieces from tiny little Egyptian clay hippos from the 12th Dynasty, all the way to one and half meter statues of Buddha from the Third Myanmar Kingdom.

fashion American Eagle Outfitters Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (C. H. Arkadia), tel. 665 625 639, ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), tel. 605645289, open Mon-Sat 10:0022:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 American Eagle brings you high-quality, on-trend clothing and accessories inspired by a denim heritage that truly expresses individual style.

Ania Kuczyńska ul. Mokotowska 61, tel. 22 622 02 76, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00 Ania Kuczyńska is becoming well known for her highly fashionable, minimalist clothing designs. The store also carries adorable baby clothes and various accessories.

Bombay Shirts ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 606 270 400, bombayshirts.com Custom-made shirts for both men and women created from a choice of over 150 fabrics: among them the finest Egyptian cotton, two-ply cottons and pure linens. They promise shirts that are ‘modern and fast-paced but buttressed with old world charm’.

EM Cashmere Boutique ul. Szczygla 8, tel. 22 826 1956, emcashmere.pl Available brands include Allude Cashmere, Annette Görtz, Studiorundholz and Sarah Pacini with 30-40% discounts on last year’s collections, and up to 70% on those of previous years. A truly beautiful find with the clothes offer supplemented with shoes and accessories.

Frank A ul. Natolińska 3, tel. 22 424 79 79, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00, www.franka.pl The interior is painfully chic

and the clothing effortlessly elegant with a minimalist edge. Stocks major brands that you can’t find anywhere else in Warsaw, from handbags from Pauric Sweeney, perfectly fashioned tees from American Vintage and ballet flats from Bloch.

Hard Rock Cafe ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, open daily 9:00-24:00, hardrockcafe.pl No wardrobe is complete without the iconic Hard Rock t-shirt! Find the Warsaw-stamped version available here, along with other extras for the all American look.

Moliera 2 Boutique ul. Moliera 2, tel, 22 827 7099, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, Sat 11:00-16:00, www.moliera2.com Brands: Alexandre Vauthier, Balmain, Beach Bunny, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Gianvito Rossi, Herve Leger, Isabel Marant, Jimmy Choo, Kenzo, Kotur, Maison Michel, Moncler, One Teaspoon, Pierre Balmain, Ralh Lauren, Simonetta Ravizza, Tod’s, Tory Burch, Valentino, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon.

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, tel. 22 622 14 16, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-17:00, www.plactrzechkrzyzy.com Brands: Christian Louboutin, Dsquared2, Fay, Gianvito Rossi, Hogan, Kenzo, Moncler, Ralph Lauren, Tod’s, Tom Ford, Valentino, Yves Salomon, Pierre Balmain, Beach Bunny, Kotur, Marc by Marc Jacobs, One Teaspoon, Simonetta Ravizza, Victoria Beckham.Kolekcje dla dzieci: Baby Dior, Dolce&Gabbana Kids, Dsquared2 Kids, Kenzo Kids, Moncler Kids, Ralph Lauren Kids, Tod’s Kids.

Ptasia 6 ul. Ptasia 6, tel. 733 874 609, ptasia6.pl A unique ladies concept store showcasing the works of both emerging and established independent Polish fashion labels such as Eva Grygo, Confashion, Horror! Horror!, Kasia Miciak and Polanka.

QπШ - Robert Kupisz ul. Mokotowska 48/204 (courtyard), tel.

506 170 801, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-14:00, www.robertkupisz.com One of Warsaw’s hottest fashion icons, and

listings / shopping a trip here soon explains why. The exclusive, handmade garments are a guaranteed head turner.

Reykjavik District ul. Burakowska 15, tel. 501 399 222, open Tue-Fri 13:00-19:00; Sat-Sun 13:00-17:00, www.reykjavikdistrict.com Chic, well-cut menswear for all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal.

Safripsti ul. Oleandrów 3 Formerly a make-up artist in London and Paris, owner Magdalena returned to Poland to open a vintage boutique. Buying wholesale – meaning prices are kept in check – her fashion store presents finds like authentic cheerleader outfits and Hawaiian shirts for summer, not to mention a great selection of denim, parkers and so forth. And how about a classic Burberry mac for zł. 200?

She’s a Riot ul. Mysia 3, shop.shesariot.com A fashionforward label for grownups – women who hover between a rock-inspired, whimsical twist on a retro Mad Men silhouette. While the online store deals principally with clothing, the new boutique location sees fashion magazines, arty books and lifestyle accessories awarded prominence.

Fashion

is an inspiring, unpretentious and highly creative fashion designer who has cultivated her own original and inimitable style since her 1992 debut. Her designs are the result of a long search for the perfect form, texture and color scheme, lending each project its own unique style: be it fashion, upholstery fabrics or accessory design.

malls & department stores Arkadia Al. Jana Pawła II 82, tel. 22 323 6767, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00, www.arkadia.com.pl Galeria KEN Center/E. Leclerc (Ursynów) ul. Ciszewskiego 15, tel. 22 389 8600, open Mon-Thur 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. www.kencenter.pl Galeria Mokotów ul. Wołoska 12, tel. 22 541 4141, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00, www.galeriamokotow.com.pl Klif House of Fashion ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4500, open Mon-Sat 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. www.klif.pl Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has everything from the excellent Alma supermarket to top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko.

Plac Unii ul. Puławska 2, tel. 22 204 0499, open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00, www.placunii.pl Warsaw’s latest mall counts Armani Jeans, Liu-Jo and Pandora amongst its upmarket tenants.

Mysia 3 ul. Mysia 3, tel. 603 767 574, open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00; Sun 12:00-18:00, www. mysia3.pl Hip department store that’s seen a few tenants come and go, yet has remained on the cutting edge in spite of it all. Set in Poland’s former censorship office, the line-up includes Scandinavian fashion in Cos, shoes from My Paris, unconventional fashion from Nenukko and more.

Vitkac Wolf Bracka Vitkac, ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7313, open Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00; Sun 11:00-18:00, www.likusconceptstore.pl Vitkac was made for with a credit card blitz in mind. Poland’s first luxury department store gathers the world’s top designers under one roof, with brands including Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton, Stella McCartney and Rick Owens.

And that’s the tip of the iceberg. Finish with dinner in the top floor Concept 13.

Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59, tel. 22 222 2200, open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00, www. zlotetarasy.pl Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Jatomi Health and Fitness Club.

Van Thorn ul. Sienna 39, tel. 22 243 7377, vanthorn.pl Bespoke and made-to-measure suits as well as custom-made shirts and a range of accessories from ties and pocket squares down to shoes and cufflinks. The attention to detail, the quality and craftsmanship are staggering.

Vintage Store ul. Dobra 56/66, tel. 501 301 742, www. vintagestore.pl Since its inception the store has grown in many ways – now, used brands like Burberry, Barbour, dresses from the ’70s, Hermes scarves, snakeskin handbags, or original Adidas sweaters from the ’60s and ’70s (the owner is an avid collector) are not an uncommon find in the shop.

Viola Śpiechowicz ul. Kolejowa 55 (Łomianki), tel. 518 920 124, open Mon-Fri 9:00-15:00, vsstore.eu/ violaspiechowicz.com Viola Spiechowicz

made to measure suits and shirts A Free Shirt

With your suit or jacker order Only in September

ul. Sienna 39 tel. 22 243 7377 www.vanthorn.pl www.warsawinsider.pl

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family activities Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. 22 596 41 00, open Tue-Fri 9:00-6:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-7:00, www.kopernik.org.pl A brilliant array of science-inspired attractions that prove as stimulating for parents as they are for the kids. Check out Galeria BZZZ, an area designated for children up to six. In order to keep numbers manageable, expect entry times to be staggered.

Girls Code Fun (girlscodefun.pl/en) I thought I’d cracked it as a parent when my daughter showed signs of reading and writing in a third language, then I met Karolina Cikowska, co-founder of Girls/Kids for Code! She politely informed me the language of the future is ‘code’. As a technophobe the conversation was foreign to me, and after reading their webpage a zillion times I realized I have more chance of mastering Polish. But the importance, particularly for girls to get involved, was loud and clear: today’s world is dominated by software.

The workshops develop an appreciation for how things work, build on self-confidence and problem solving skills, so the earlier children start the better equipped they will be to understand and even create tomorrow’s technology. ‘Kids for Code’ classes for kids 3-19 (ENG/PL) start midSeptember and the good news is you can reserve online in plain English.

Spotlight Kids (spotlightkids.pl) Spotlight Kids is an educational project dedicated to the arts, culture and philosophy. In cooperation with the MSN the program includes masterclasses with artists, creative workshops and museum/gallery trips.

Workshops commence in October for children aged 4-15 years. This was a big hit throughout the holidays.

Hangar 646 (hangar646.pl) Children with excessive energy levels should head to Hangar 646.

Located in a former airport hangar, the 2,700 sq/m of trampoline space includes a swimming pool of sponges. Children from three years old are welcome to let off steam, with instructors available to teach acrobatics and suchlike; or you can just bounce off walls! Book your slot online for best deal. (GBB)

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Mums & Tots www.mumsandtots.pl A volunteer group for mums (and dads) of all nationalities – coffee mornings, play groups, art and music classes and nights out for parents; the list is endless.

For more details, as well as their newsletter and schedule check their web.

Wilanów Golf Driving Range/ Ekberg Golf Academy ul. Vogla 19, tel. 22 424 7083, open Mon-Sun 9:00-21:00, www.golfparkspoland. pl Keen golfers (all ages) can perfect their swing at this friendly, well equipped driving range, whilst beginners can opt for professional individual lessons or beginner group programs in English or Polish. There is a weekly junior hour (5-15yrs), ladies hour and fun mini-golf course.

Zachęta Gallery Pl. Małachowskiego 3, tel. 22 556 9600, open Tue-Sun 12:00-20:00, www.zacheta. art.pl Recently undergone extensive modernization but still awaiting a café, this gallery and bookshop offer a perfect introduction to modern art. Also available are weekend workshops for children and original cultural birthday parties guided by experienced animators in a contemporary environment.

PHOTOGRAPH BY GILL BOELMAN-BURROWS

EXTRA CURRICULUR ACTIVITIES

HulaKula ul. Dobra 56/66, tel. 22 552 74 00, open Mon-Tue 12:00-24:00; Wed 12:00-1:00; Fri 12:00-3:00; Sat 10:00-4:00; Sun 10:00-24:00, www.hulakula.com.pl Bowling alley and soft indoor playground: heaven for kids and hell for grown-ups! Children love to climb, explore and slide into large ball pools.

Parents hate the lack of daylight and fast food menu.

listings / family education

priate activities. For further information and/ or to visit our school, contact: admissions@ aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00.

preschools

American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel.

22 702 85 00, www.aswarsaw.org ASW provides an American-styled educational program to students aged 4 and 5. The curriculum offers a rich, meaningful and balanced educational experience through age-appro-

The British Primary School of Wilanów ul. Hlonda 12, www.bsww.pl, tel. 781 988 000 Following the National Curriculum of England and Wales, this is the first School in Poland subject to the inspection of the UK Independent School Inspectorate.

Pupils receive British and, upon request, Polish reports/diplomas. The school follows a closed admissions policy and limits

enrollment of one nationality to below 50% of each class starting from Year 1. Currently, admission is offered to children between 2 and 9 years old for 2015/16.

The British School Early Years Centre ul. Dąbrowskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel.

22 646 7777, british@thebritishschool.pl, www.thebritishschool.pl The British School provides special classes from pre-nursery aged 30 months to 6 years old. Children at

American School of Warsaw is hosting an Open House for prospective families.

Come experience us in action!

• Tour the school • Interact with administrators, faculty and students • Receive admissions information AUGU ST

SEPT EMBE R

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JANUARY

26 30 25 20 Bielawa, ul. Warszawska 202 05-520 Konstancin Jeziorna, Poland www.aswarsaw.org

September 30th

9:00–11:00

ASW open house.indd 1

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listings / family the Early Years Centre move on to our Primary and Secondary schools at Limanowskiego 15.

The Canadian School of Warsaw Preschool ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, preschool@canadianschool.pl The Canadian School of Warsaw is the only authorized school in Warsaw teaching IB PYP in English.

The preschool offers a bilingual environment for 3-6 year olds enriched with foreign languages and extra activities. Serving the Warsaw community since 2000 all children are welcome, though available space is limited. For further info, tours and school visits call or email.

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations)

Warsaw Montessori School

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ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www.warsawmontessori. edu.pl Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have 3 green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy.

Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. Call to make an appointment to tour any of the 3 schools.

Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupery ul. Nobla 16, tel. 22 616 14 99, www.ecolemontessori.pl The preschool is located in the Saska Kępa district and provides a Montessori curriculum in French for children aged from 18 months to 6 years old.

The English Playhouse ul. Pływiańska 14a & ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 22 843 9370, office open 8:00-16.00, www.theenglishplayhouse.com The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów.

The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old. For more info or to arrange a tour of the pre-school or nursery call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email: jnowak@theenglishplayhouse.com

The English Primary ul. Rzodkiweki 18, tel. 784 037 808, jnowak@tep.edu.pl An English primary

listings / family school designed to prepare children for their next steps in education and life in a friendly, caring and nurturing environment. Following the English curriculum in a truly English primary school setting we take children from the international community through the key learning stages so they achieve to their best ability through a fun learning experience.

The International Preschool of Warsaw ul. Kalatowki 24, tel. 22 843 0964, ipw. edu.pl IPW is located in a residential area of Mokotów, within walking distance of Królikarnia as well as both tram and metro lines. Children from 2.5 to 6 years old are welcome. English is the language spoken and breakfast, lunch and snacks are provided during the day. Children also have the opportunity to participate in gymnastics, music, art and drama classes. IPW serves the international community and prepares children for international education.

Maple Tree Montessori ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/ Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, www.mapletreemontessori.pl Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum GIVE supported by a Music & Art program, with a

TION

natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). Find them located in the Wilanów district of Warsaw, in a house safely nestled into the end of a quiet street.

schools American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, www.aswarsaw.org ASW is a premier college-preparatory international school that offers a PK-12 curriculum, including the IB Diploma Program in Grades 11 and 12. Students are inspired and challenged every day by experienced and dedicated teachers, who provide enriching learning opportunities in a world class facility. For further information and/or to visit our school contact: admissions@aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00.

The Canadian School of Warsaw Elementary School ul. Bełska 7, tel.

692 411 573, admission@canadian-school. pl, www.canadian-school.pl The Canadian School of Warsaw is the only authorized school in Warsaw teaching IB PYP in English. The Primary School offers bilingual education for 6-11 year olds. Highly qualified, international staff, challenging materials and a friendly atmosphere provide an optimal setting for the highest standard of education.

Extra-curricular activities include visual arts, designing classes, ceramics/pottery, art studio, music lessons (piano, guitar, choir), sports (capoeira, karate, judo, soccer, swimming, gymnastics), languages (English, Polish, French, Spanish, Italian, German) and more.

The Canadian School of Warsaw Middle School ul. Olimpijska 11, tel. 885 420 044 / 885 620 066, secretary.olimpijska@canadian-school.pl, www.canadian-school.pl Provides a continuThe British ation of PREIB education for 11-15 year olds.

School International staff, cultural events and chalul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, lenging student initiatives create a perfect open 8:00-16:00, british@thebritishschool. learning and creative thinking environment. pl, www.thebritishschool.pl Top-ranking For further info, tours and school visits call or private school in Warsaw providing outstandemail. Also home to the Non-Public PsychoYOUR CHILD ing education based A on PREMIUM the British system.EDUCAPedagogical Counseling Centre ‘Olimpia’ (tel.

GIVE YOUR CHILD A PREMIUM EDUCATION

www.thebritishschool.pl

founded in 1992

www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / family 885 620 066) which examines the level of mental, emotional, auditory and visual-motor functions’ development, and conducts individual and group pedagogical therapy, as well as individual psychotherapy..

Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupery ul. Nobla 16, tel. 22 616 14 99, www.saintexupery.pl Established in 1994, the Antoine de Saint-Exupery preschool and school provides a French curriculum for children aged from 3 to eleven years old in a welcoming family atmosphere. Highly qualified native Frenchspeaking teachers.

Warsaw Montessori School ul. Szwoleżerów 4, tel. 22 841 3908, sylvia@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www. warsawmontessori.edu.pl Focuses on the Montessori curriculum with an education based on the integration of conceptual learning and real-life experiences.

cafes Figa z Makiem (Saska Kępa) ul. Walecznych 64, tel. 512 939 001, open Mon-Sat 10.30-19:00, Sun 11:00-19:00, www.figazmakiem.edu.pl One of the latest and greatest addition to the growing roster of Warsaw kid cafes. Do some

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well selected designer kids shopping while waiting, or simply browse the books and toys section while your little ones romp in the kids room.

Fiku Miku ul. Zwycięzców 32, tel. 692 448 112, www. fikumikucafe.pl This small, jolly cafe is dedicated to children. The focus is on films and creative workshops. Designer Polish toys are on sale alongside a healthy menu, and fresh cake selection. Check FB for updates as this café closes for private birthday parties.

Kalimba ul. Mierosławskiego 19, tel. 22 839 75 60 or 501 183 953, open Mon-Fri 9:30-20:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-20:00, www.kalimba.pl Kalimba café caters to Warsaw’s boho-chic community. Relax with long latte’s or nibble healthy snacks whilst kids climb a spiral staircase to the indoor tree house, role-play in the kitchen area or join creative workshops. The shop, with original handmade toys is tempting, but it’s the pick’n’mix candy that’s unavoidable!

Kolonia ul. Łęczycka (corner of Ładysława), tel. 661 064 944 or 605 084 804, open 9:00-20:00, www.kolonia-ochota.pl Not just an excellent cafe, Kolonia is aslo equipped with a garden/ playground. Kolonia is the most kid-friendly (and pet-friendly) place in the area, offering fresh daily specials and a staff that always welcomes you with a smile.

shops Muppetshop ul. Kazimierzowska 43, tel.

532 689 212, muppetshop. pl An innovative concept store that offers a wide range of brands and products targeted at young people – babies, juniors, teenagers. The portfolio includes full-service for expecting parents as well as complete interior projects (from 0 to the first-owned apartment). On top of that expect a wealth of other design products (kitchen accessories, decorations, toys, bags, books etc.) from carefully selected brands such as Quax, Lodger, Chispum, Shnuggle, Collegien, Jielde, Gubi and many more besides. It all serves to make it the No. 1 spot for your youngsters shopping.

Pieluszkarnia ul. Topiel 12, ul. Mandalińskiego 25, tel. 22 713 8275, www.pieluszkarnia.pl This small chain specializes in eco-friendly toys and clothing designed and produced in Poland.

Smyk Multiple stores, tel. 22 462 7250, www. smyk.pl Smyk is Poland’s answer to Mothercare; from bottle sterilizing kits to pencil cases, early learning toys to Disney classics and a wide range of seasonal clothing, this store will take you from childbirth to high school!

health & beauty gyms Fitness Centre at the Radisson SAS Centrum Hotel ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888 Smallish but well-regarded gym with swimming pool, sauna, gym, and group classes inside one of Warsaw’s top five stars.

Fitness Centre at the Sheraton Hotel ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6701, www.sheraton. com/warsaw The Sheraton spa features sauna, steam room and massage, while the gym comes with LCD-fitted running and cycling machines, and a dedicated cardio section. Personal training available, as are group classes covering pilates, yoga, aerobics and even ski conditioning.

EXPAT SPORTS CLUBS & TEAMS FROGS & CO. While it originated as an expat team, Warsaw’s only social rugby club welcomes all: supporters, players, young, old, men and women. The rugby is taken seriously, and so too is the social side. For details see: warsawfrogs.com HASH HOUSE HARRIERS Billing themselves as ‘the drinking club with a running problem’, the Warsaw chapter of the Hash House Harriers meets every couple of weeks and welcomes runners and walkers of every level. Look for them on Facebook for further details.

HOBBY KICKER Expat football team that meets each week on the 3G pitches at Centrum Futbolu Warszawianka (ul. Merliniego 2). All nationalities and levels of skill are welcome. Search for Hobby Kicker – Warsaw on Facebook for details.

WARSAW INTERNATIONAL TRIATHLON CLUB Serving the needs of the athletic community, the WITC is open to all interested in the disciplines of swimming, cycling and running. For more details click to: warsawtriclub.com WARSAW EAGLES (pictured) The local gridiron team is the most ‘serious’ organization of the lot, competing in a national league in front of half-decent crowds.

Check their Facebook for details if you fancy a trial, or simply content yourself with watching them – and their cheerleaders – in action at the Polonia stadium.

Holmes Place Energy Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (C.H. Arkadia), ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), www.holmesplace.pl Making top-flight gym facilities available to the masses, the Holmes Place Energy brand offers high standard equipment, personal training and group classes. Six month membership available for approx. zł. 200 per month, though prices are subject to change.

For latest details enquire direct.

Holmes Place Premium ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel), tel.

22 851 0563, ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), tel. 22 313 1222, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), tel. 519 436 841, www.holmesplace.pl Those who use it claim the Hilton branch is the best gym in Poland.

Set on two floors, highlights include a 25 meter pool, sauna and steam room and a spacious gym packed with the most modern equipment. Also on-site, a varied timetable of classes, excellent personal trainers and a Green Coffee relaxation area. There’s two more ‘premium’ gyms to choose from, including the one in the Marriott immortalized after Obama’s recent work out there.

Little Gym ul. Bruzdowa 56, tel. 22 842 0728, www.thelittlegym.pl Targeted at children, expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-to-child ratio, original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. Englishspeaking, as well. www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / health & beauty McFit ul. Świętokrzyska 3 (corner of Nowy Świat), tel. 22 313 1400, mcfit.com The budget European chain signals its arrival to Poland with a 2,000 sq/m studio that utilizes the latest technology as well as ‘cyber training’ programs. Open 24/7, with membership from zł. 89 per month.

Pure Jatomi Fitness Platinum Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59 (floor 3, opposite McDonald’s), tel. 22 379 7777, open Mon-Fri 6:00-22:30; Sat 8:00-22:30; Sun 8:00-21:00, www. jatomifitness.pl The largest and fastest growing fitness chain in Poland currently has 35 locations and 117,000 members across the country. All clubs have new generation machines, innovative forms of group activities (Booiaka, Hot Yoga, Pure Pump, Pure Fire and Wah Gwan Dancehall) and professional personal trainers schooled in nutrition and the healthy lifestyle.

Pure Jatomi Fitness Platinum Zodiak ul. Widok 26, tel. 22 100 3400, open 24hrs, www.jatomifitness.pl Poland’s fastest growing fitness chain has been recognized for excellence after being named SCF Leisure & Fitness Retailer of the Year 2014. Other Pure Jatomi clubs in Warsaw include: Blue City, Galeria Renova, Sadyba Best Mall, Promenada and Targówek.

RiverView Wellness Centre ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental), tel. 22 328 86 40, www.riverview.com.pl Top-class facilities and equipment, private instructors and small classes. The view from the highest pool in Europe offers a glorious panorama of the city. Annual prices from zł. 4,200 (access from Mon-Fri 6 a.m. to 5 p.m.), zł. 5,760 (all times), and zł. 8,350 for Diamond Membership (includes two personal training sessions per month, a complimentary weekend at the InterContinental, restaurant discounts, etc.).

dental clinics ArtDental ul. Łucka 18, tel. 22 654 3006, artdental.pl Well-known among expats, ArtDental’s service is widely praised for its honest service and moderate prices. English speaking and moderately priced.

Aster Med ul. Św. Bonifacego 92, tel. 22 858 0354,

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www.astermed.pl Aster Med, while billing itself as a center of orthodontics and implantology, is really the full service with 14 dentists and 4 orthodontists and implant surgeons.

EuroDental Various locations, tel. 22 380 7000, eurodental.pl English-speaking dentists on request. Lacking the ‘boutique’ charm of some of Warsaw’s more modish clinics, the service here is both efficient and moderately priced.

Malo Clinic Domaniewska 37 (3rd floor), tel. 22 393 6333, www.maloclinics.com/polska This world class dental clinic incorporates five dental offices, an operating room, two recovery rooms and a state-of-the-art diagnostic center.

Odent ul. Nowoursynowska 145E (entry from ul.

Rosoła) & ul. Duchnicka 3, tel. 22 405 4430, odent.pl Dubbed ‘the clinic with a heart’, Odent’s personal approach is complimented by expert staff and the latest and most advanced treatments and equipment.

English-speaking service also available.

medical clinics Damian Medical Center Various locations, see website for details: damian.pl Established in 1994, Damian offer a wide range of medical services in their hospital and five outpatient clinics. English spoken widely.

Medicover Various locations, see website for details: medicover.pl Hugely popular amongst ex-pats, Medicover offer a wide range of membership schemes for both private and corporate clients. The jewel in their crown is a state-of-the-art hospital in the Wilanów district.

Therapy Warsaw ul. Filtrowa 69/13, tel. 601 532 319, www.therapywarsaw.com English-speaking therapy for couples and individuals dealing with relationships, eating disorders, trauma, stress and much more besides.

spas & salons

0 Barberian Academy & Barber Shop ul. Emilii Plater 25 & ul. Koszykowa 9 Away from the black clouds of metrosexuality, Barberian is where men gather to celebrate being men. Lauded as the local champion of male grooming, this stand out has a rebel chic layout and barbers who are experts in their field.

Bartek Janusz Salon ul. Mokotowska 19 / ul. Wilcza 72, tel. 22 828 4444, www.bartekjanusz.pl The staff here takes a no-nonsense approach to cutting hair – it goes along with the minimalist chic interiors of the place. According to one Insider: “I’ve never left a salon feeling so happy with my hair.”

Bio.Sis Nail Spa ul. Mokotowska 26, tel. 22 621 1404. A top spot for a classic manicure or pedicure – they also do lots of complicated things with gels and other hi-tech nail discoveries. Also on Elektoralna 24.

BodyClinic ul. Oboźna 9 lok. 104, tel. 22 826 1160 or 784 677 618, open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat 9:00-15:00, www.bodyclinic.pl Thorough body care for everyone. From the usual options to a huge variety of massages and some very exotic treatments, BodyClinic covers all the bases.

Dotyk SPA ul. Biały Kamień 3, tel. 22 898 7272, open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Sat 9:00-18:00, www.dotykspa.pl Probably the only place in Warsaw where you’ll get a facial yoga session. Going futher east, treat yourself to Japanese, Polynesian or Indian massage.

Fiuu Fiuu Day Spa ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 629 2414. A wonderful quick fix salon that makes use of the latest Ericson products and other top brands. Regarded as one of the top ladies day spas in the country.

Hair a Porter ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Warsaw Hotel, level -1), tel. 22 558 1555, open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat 9:00-17:00, www. hair-a-porter.pl A staunch favorite among the ex-pat crowd, Hair a Porter offer the ultimate hair experience utilizing talented staff and top-quality products.

listings / health & beauty Haircology ul. Rozbrat 44A, tel. 669 780 669, open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-last guest, www.haircology.pl An upmarket ecologically minded hairdresser that eschews such things as synthetic fragrances, silicon and preservatives.

pl Here, the staff is adept and certified at a range of innovative treatments: from the non-invasive Bella Contour treatment to the Body Tite and Body Jet treatments that use the latest surgical procedures to slim and tighten. For summer the right spa/salon/ clinic is key. La Perla’s all three in one!

The Hermit Barber Shop pl. Bankowy 1, thehermit.pl You know those London barber shops you see in 1930s film reels? That’s Hermit, a thrilling throwback right down to the barber’s pole and checkered flooring. But don’t be fooled, this is as upmarket as it gets, with top quality products and even some 16-year-old whisky with which to pair the experience.

La Plata ul. Wielicka 42, tel. 517 576 667, laplataspa.pl Manual and mechanized massage in a relaxed space inspired by Buddhist philosophy. Treatments include herbal stamp Thai massage and hot coconut oil massage amongst others.

Izar Repechage ul. Moliera 1, tel. 604 209 900 or 22 827 7195, open Mon-Fri 8:00-20:00; Sat 8:0014:00, www.repechage.net.pl A gorgeous city spa which a range of treatments for the whole body.

Komiks ul. Radna 12, tel. 881 436 056, komiks.waw. pl You know those weird haircuts that people like David Bowie and Lady Gaga have?

Well, here’s the place to make that ultimate fashion statement and get one yourself.

Henna art, manicure / pedicure also offered.

La Perla multiple locations inc. Łowicka 21B/1, Wilcza 22A, Hilton Hotel, klinikalaperla.

Le Spa ul. Mokotowska 55, tel. 22 622 9428, open Mon-Fri 9:00-21:00, Sat 9:00-16:00.

This little island of peace and beauty takes you light-years away from the bustle of Warsaw.

Pardon My French ul. Belwederska 32, tel. 22 240 6290, pardonmyfrench.pl The equipment here is state-of-the art, particularly the massage chairs for indulgent pedicures. While gel tips and all that hybrid stuff is all the rage now, it might be more prudent to get a classic mani/pedi to avoid beauty emergencies when you’re drifting in the middle of the Mediterranean on P. Diddy’s yacht.

The Pedicure Place ul. Pokorna 2, lok. u11, tel. 22 241 3000

or 505 828 688, www.pedicure-place.pl A luxury pedi/manicure clinic with room for 10. All the latest OPI varnishes and over 200 colors guarantee you’ll find the latest in styling and nail care.

Rostowski ul. Koszykowa 58, rostowskibarbershop.pl A true celebration of the vintage barber shop, Rostowski have the ambiance nailed to a tee thanks to a crew that’s ready for banter and an interior replete with jack-up chairs, glinting zinc and restored floor tiles.

Retro Day Spa Al. Ujazdowskie 18/11, no. 311, tel. 22 622 03 69, www.retrodayspa.pl Royally indulgent interiors hark back to a different century, though the treatments are all hi-tech and include packages for pregnant women among the variety of beauty offers.

Studio Jej i Jego ul. Wiertnicza 93A, tel. 22 885 0085, open Mon-Fri 9:00-21:00; Sat 9:00-19:00, www. jejijego.pl Hair and beauty treatments for men and women – inc. nail care, massage, facial and body treatments.

You & You Maciej Wróblewski ul. Grzybowska 61 (Galeria Platinum Towers), tel. 606 994 226, youandyou.eu Poland’s premier hair stylist is Maciej Wróblewski, and his flagship salon fuses a personal approach with professional styling. Disappointments are unheard of.

Odent was established to ensure the highest level of service on the dental map of Warsaw. We offer flexible hours, cutting edge technology and two branches in convenient locations in Żoliborz and Ursynów.

Scope of services: • Orthodontics • Teeth Whitening • Cutting-edge prosthetics

• Dental surgery and maxillofacial implants • Conservative treatment, cosmetic dentistry

• Treatment of children • Root canal treatment of teeth using traditional microscopic • X-ray lab

Żoliborz: ul. Duchnicka 3 bud.4, entrance A • Ursynów: Nowoursynowska 145 E (entrance from ul. Rosoła), www.odent.pl, tel. 22 405 44 30

www.warsawinsider.pl

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in the city

Originally established by an 18th century nobleman who named it after his wife, Maria, it didn’t take long for the Mariensztat district to veer from its intended look. By the outbreak of WWII the area had become an unnavigable confusion of tangled streets: pimps, prostitutes and punch-ups were its calling card. After the war, its near total destruction gave town planners the chance to reboot from scratch. This they did with gusto, creating a prototype settlement based on a Socialist Realist template. Warsaw’s first post-war housing project opened amid much fanfare in 1948, with architect Zygmunt Stepiński’s design incorporating playgrounds, schools and other community-minded infrastructure.

Seen as a major propaganda coup, its breakneck completion was largely due to truly Herculean construction work – it’s said some buildings took three days to finish. Unsurprisingly, this slice of Workers’ Paradise was exploited frequently in film, and was the backdrop to Poland’s first color movie: a comedy titled Adventure in Mariensztat. While the pink pastel colors have faded, many of the original details remain as they were: among them, quirky murals and mosaics (check the chirpy cat on ul. Sowia), a fountain fringed by three stone children, and a statue of a hen-clasping woman – that’s a reference to the area’s previous guise as a food market.

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Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2015

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

CITY PROWL: MARIENSZTAT

listings / in the city VISITORS accomodation 5-Star Hotels

Bristol Hotel ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1000, bristol@luxurycollection. com, www.hotelbristolwarsaw.pl

Westin Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, www.westin.pl

4-Star Hotels

Radisson Blu Sobieski pl. Zawiszy 1, tel. 22 579 1000, www.sobieski.com.pl Mecure Warszawa Centrum ul. Złota 48/54, tel. 22 697 3999, www.mercure.com

Mercure Grand Warszawa ul. Krucza 28, tel. 22 583 2100, www.mercure.com Courtyard by Marriott Hotel (Airport) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 0100, www.warszawacourtyard.pl Novotel Warszawa Centrum ul. Marszałkowska 94/98, tel. 22 596 0000, www.novotel.com, www.accorhotels.com

H15 Boutique ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 553 8700, info@h15ab.com, www.h15ab.com Hilton Warsaw ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555 / 800 44 11 482, www.hilton.com InterContinental ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com Mamaison Le Régina Hotel Warsaw ul. Kościelna 12, tel. 22 531 6000, www. mamaison.com Marriott Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 6306, www.warsawmarriott.com Regent Warsaw Hotel ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, reservations@regent-warsaw.com, www.regent-warsaw.com The Rialto Boutique Hotel ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8700, www.rialto.pl Sheraton ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6100, www.sheraton.pl Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-warsaw

Sofitel Warsaw Victoria ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8011, www.sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com

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listings / in the city RESIDENTS relocation companies

Move One Relocations ul. Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 8160, www.moveonerelo.com Also immigration assistance, fine art shipping, pet transport and consulting services.

jumpers. Larger items like bikes, suitcases can also be left with them.

pets

Bone Pet Club ul. Jedności 118, tel. 507 144 044, petclub.pl Dogs, cats, rabbits, rodents, birds and many other pets are welcomed inside this ‘hotel and spa’ designed exclusively for their use.

Facilities include grooming, lodging, pool, pet taxis and socialization classes. All pet sitters speak fluent English.

ChopinPASS The Fryderyk Chopin Institute, together with CityInfo, have launched a direct connection between Warsaw and Żelazowa Wola as part of an initiative called ChopinPASS. This package includes admission to the Chopin Museum and to the birthplace of Fryderyk Chopin in Żelazowa Wola, as well as direct transportation between these two institutions. Priced at zł. 99, visitors can purchase the pass at PKiN, the Chopin Museum as well as at: chopinpass.com

Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. 22 596 4100, kopernik.org.pl Interactive, witty IN JANUARY E-LEARNING FOR FREE! and surprising, Copernicus allows visitors to Contact us for more details. experience an earthquake, blast recyclable objects into space and become a mystery cracking detective.

Relo Planet ul. Lwowska 5, tel. 22 658 1958, reloplanet. com International and domestic removals, transport and logistics solutions including office and individual moves, diplomatic posts, small shipments, storage and artwork.

polish for foreigners

storage

Klub Dialogu Y JANUAR ul. OrdynackaIN13/5, ING E-LEARN ! tel. 664 788 004, E E FOR FR www.klubdialogu.pl www.klubdialogu.pl Contact us tails. de info@klubdialogu.pl for more for Outstanding programs tel. 664 788 004 foreigners living in Poland offer a variety of courses aimed at every level. Using over ten years of experience, the leaning process becomes an adventure at Klub Dialogu..

Wiecej Miejsca Tel. 733 002 014, www.wiecejmiejsca.pl A new storage service that will even go so far as to pick up your items for you and transporting them to their guarded warehouse.

They’ll also the supply the storage bins which typically fit 90 books, 100 t-shirts, 25

museums

POLISH LANGUAGE SCHOOL FOR FOREIGNERS TAILOR-MADE individual and minigroup courses - intensive - regular - weekend at the school or at your place First Lesson Free Free conversation classes

CSW ul. Jazdów 2, csw.art.pl Situated in a baroque-style castle the center hosts artists from all over the world. The on-site bookshop is of particular interest for artists and intellectuals.

Dom Spotkań z Historią ul. Karowa 20, dsh.waw.pl The History Meeting House wins points for frequently excellent exhibitions that cover topics such as ‘rebuilding Warsaw’ and ‘Socialist Realist architecture.’ It won’t take longer than twenty minutes to peruse whatever exhibition is on, but it’s still a very worthwhile diversion and one of the city’s top secrets.

The Heritage Interpretation Center ul. Brzozowa 11-13, mhw.pl Beginning with a gigantic tapestry of Warsaw circa 1873, this little known venue tells the complex story of Old Town’s reconstruction. Walking over a glass floor, beneath which lies smashed masonry and columns recovered from the ruins, a series of then-and-now slides and pictures document Old Town’s annihilation.

If the first section about Warsaw’s physical elimination is poignant, then the others do a fabulous job of sharing the optimism and alacrity that followed.

The Fryderyk Chopin Museum in Warsaw Ostrogski Palace, ul. Okólnik 1, chopin. museum Recognized as one of the most hi-tech museums in Europe, computer chip tickets allow visitors the chance to personal-

100 Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2015

listings / in the city ize the museum experience as never before.

Over 5,000 objects are present, among them Chopin’s pocket watch, his last piano, a lock of hair and even his death mask.

Invisible Exhibition Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, niewidzialna.pl Nothing challenges the sense of sight more than a total lack of it. Confused? Head to the Invisible Exhibition to learn first-hand the challenges faced by the blind. This includes everything from crossing the road to ordering a drink in a bar.

Museum of Life Under Communism ul. Glucha, tel. 606 225 525, adventurewarsaw.com Run by the excellent Adventure Warsaw tour guide company, the Museum of Communist Life brings together aspects of communist life through dioramas that present typical living quarters of the time and a milk bar. Displays are numerous and quirky, and include a restored Saturator machine, a collection of commie hoovers, not to mention medals from the owner’s own family. A must see!

Polin - Museum of the History of Polish Jews ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl Composed of eight galleries, each covers a different stage of local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day. Covering 4,000 sq/m, highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec synagogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical interwar Jewish Warsaw street.

Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw ul. Pańska 3, artmuseum.pl The first museum of modern art in Warsaw, still fighting for a proper location, bravely manages to provide visitors with a display of contemporary Polish and international art.

Museum of Technology Palace of Culture, pl. Defilad 1, muzeumtechniki.warszawa.pl Following a maze-like route in the Palace of Culture, there’s curios aplenty: a Viennese calculator dating from 1898 that’s still in working order; a glowing ‘glass lady’ that lights up to demonstrate the inner workings of the body; communist era sports cars; a WWII Enigma machine. More pertinent to the younger generation, there’s a selection of vintage phones and laptop computers that hipsters would give their life for.

National Museum Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented.

The Neon Museum ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum. org This amazing project brings together the neon lights that once illuminated the city.

Among the collection are 35 landmark signs, many of which date from the 60s and 70s.

Palmiry National Memorial Museum Palmiry, palmiry.mhw.pl An excellent multimedia exhibition set next to a cemetery

holding the graves of 1,700 Poles executed in the first years of Nazi occupation. The museum tells their forgotten story, with archival video footage complimented by exhumed exhibits and plenty of background info dealing with the siege and subsequent occupation of Warsaw.

The Royal Castle in Warsaw Pl. Zamkowy 4, zamek-krolewski.pl Meticulously restored after WWII, highlights inside include the lavishly restored 18th century royal apartments with 22 paintings by Bernardo Bellotto (known as Canaletto), the Senators’ Chamber in which the Constitution of the Third of May was signed, the biggest collection of oriental rugs in Europe in the tin-roofed palace and two remarkable Rembrandt paintings.

Warsaw Rising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl Exhibits range from a full-size replica of a Liberator plane, to a sewer beneath the cinema screen and a slice of bread preserved from 1944. Don’t miss the ‘City of Ruins’, a five minute 3D film which takes you on an aerial journey over devastated Warsaw. For panoramic views of Warsaw check the view tower.

Zachęta National Art Gallery Pl. Małachowskiego 3, zacheta.art.pl Probably the most famous gallery in Poland, this Zachęta has a thrilling, and at times controversial repertoire that makes it a must for modern art buffs.

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LOOKING BACK

Kings of the Underground

W

hen I came to Warsaw for the first time in the mid-90s and asked people to name famous Brits, many would rightly mention Benny Hill (probably really thinking about Hill’s Angels), Shakin’ Stevens (33 UK top 40 hits and his conviction for drink driving still years away) and Margaret Thatcher, who famously bought some cheese for her husband Dennis from Hala Mirowska in 1988 with the transformation-defining words, “Dennis likes cheese”. Other worthy mentions were received by Prince Charles, who picked up a piece of litter in the Tatras to the whole nation’s embarrassment, and John Lennon, who has a street named after him near Łazienki.

What surprised me greatly was that nobody mentioned the British 19th century engineering family / team comprised of William Lindley and his sons William Heerlein and Joseph who designed and built Warsaw’s sewage and water supply system: still in operation today, they were designated as being a Monument of History by President Komorowski in 2012!

William Lindley was a prolific civil engineer in the second half of the nineteenth century, building railways, gas streetlighting stations, sewage systems and water supply systems in Hamburg, Prague, Warsaw, St. Petersburg and many other cities in between. In 1876-78 he designed Warsaw’s sewage and water supply system, which has ever since been called

104 Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2015

the Lindley Filters. The actual building work was supervised by his two sons William Heerlein and Joseph Lindley and included a network of sewer tunnels many kilometres in length that were famously used by Home Army insurgents in the Warsaw Uprising as they were the only way the fighters could move around the city and communicate with each other. The conditions in the tunnels at that time were depicted brilliantly by Krzysztof Kieślowski in his film Kanał.

The whole system represented a civilisational leap for the people of Warsaw as it provided them with a sufficient supply of clean, treated water. During the building, great emphasis was placed on details and the use of high-quality materials. The filters are occasionally open to visitors and anyone lucky enough to get a ticket will be struck by their uniform beauty and the quality of the work. Another part of the Lindley Filters is the River Pump Station on the Wisła’s left bank, which using a system of suction pumps drew water out of the Wisła and sent it to the filters to be treated.

The suction pumps are known as Lindley’s dragons and due to the river’s historical low level at present, some of them can actually be seen above water level. In recognition of their work, the Lindleys have a street named after them running north from the filters, while William Heerlein Lindley has a splendid statue and bench in his honour in the New Town made up of pumps, tubes and even running water.

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

This month we look back at the 19th century British family whose lasting local legacy reverberates to this day… BY STUART DOWELL

Always something new Tables: +48 694 413 439 platinium@platiniumclub.pl 6, Fredy Street, Warsaw www.platiniumclub.pl /platiniumclubpl Door selection Dress code: casual elegant

Travel: Beginner’s Warmia / Mazury Guide page 32

Warsaw

Cocktail Trends page 24

Post-war Mystery page 18

page 30

September 09 price zł.10 INDEKS 334901 ISSN:1643-1723

(229)

2015

(VAT 8% included)

TAMING TAMKA Eat,Drink & Do page 12

SEPTEMBER 2015 Editor-in-chief Alex Webber

insider@warsawinsider.pl Art Director Kevin Demaria insider@warsawinsider.pl Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com

tioning: thank you. I might have died otherwise. August grew so hot, in fact, that at one stage I tipped a bag of ice cubes down my shorts. True story. Apologies for the imagery there, but desperate times require hardcore measures. So in my book, it’s good riddance to August. Not that the month just gone was a complete disaster.

I’ll remember it for a rip-roaring trip to Mazury / Warmia, the details of which you’ll find in the mag. Elsewhere, we take a deeper look at global cocktail trends, not to mention the ongoing hunt for the girl in one of city’s most iconic photos.

September also mean it’s back to work. In many cases, it means a raft of unfamiliar faces as a fresh batch of expats begin their new postings. For this reason, we’ve also included a bulletproof guide to the must-dos of Warsaw. Hope you enjoy it and see you next month…

INFRONT

Opener 7 News 8 Weather 10 Tamka 12 Trends 18

FEATURES

Beginner’s Guide 24 Post-war Mystery 30 Travel 32

2

Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

LISTINGS

Restaurants 48 Cafes & Wine Bars 76 Nightlife 80 Shopping 87 Family 90 Health & Beauty 95 In the City 98

REVIEWS

MOD 37 Signature 38 Falafel Bejrut 40 Product Placement 41

Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2015

PARTNER NEWS

The latest marketplace news from the Warsaw Insider’s friends and advertisers… 42

INBACK

Map 102 Looking Back 104

Contributors: Gill Boelman-Burrows Stuart Dowell Maria Mileńko Michał Miszkurka Ed Wight Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com ey Account Manager K A. Julita Pryzmont jpryzmont@valkea.com ey Account Manager K Adam Fogler afogler@valkea.com Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com Subscription 12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland.

Orders can be placed through: insider@warsawinsider.pl Printed by Zakład Poligraficzny TECHGRAF Tel. (17) 225-28-69 VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies.

All information ©2015 Warsaw Insider.

on the cover This issue we take a deeper look at the unsung hero of the Powiśle district: ul. Tamka: hence our lovely, little Tamka-themed cover. See page 12.

(Illustration by Michał Miszkurka)

PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT

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this month...

FOOD

FESTIVAL

Sat or Sun @ various locations Much more than the breakfast market it modestly bills itself as, this magical open air spot is a bit of everything: a food market, a picnic, even a place to get your bike fixed. Locations include Żoliborz, Powiśle, Ursynów and Mokotów.

4-20 Sept @ Muzeum Łazienki, ul. Agrykoli 1 The only festival in Poland dedicated to Baroque opera. The works of Handel, Vivaldi, Purcell and Rameau will be presented by Polish, Czech and Slovak performers.

Targ Śniadaniowy

For further info, see: targsniadaniowy.pl

Tickets zł. 120

CONCERT

CONCERT

Every Sunday, 12:00 & 16:00 @ Chopin Statue, Łazienki Park Listen to some of Poland’s top talents – young and old – recite works from Chopin’s oeuvre in the rose-edged gardens of Łazienki Park. The Sunday concerts run each summer and attract hundreds.

4 Sept, 20:00 @ Palladium, ul. Złota 9 The three day festival will feature workshops, concerts and ‘musical madness’ – their words, not ours. Opening night will see a performance by the band Coma and they’ll be supported by the Bucket Guys

COMEDY

FOOD

Every Sun, 20:00 @ Cafe Niespodzianka, ul. Marszałkowska 7 A theatrical English-language performance group with a focus on improvised comedy. They say: “we’re always looking for talented people to join us on stage.”

5, 12, 19, 26 Sept, 10:00-17:00 @ Klub Medyk, ul. Oczki 1 The Wege Wawa festival will present fresh finds from producers, food stalls, DJ sets and other such entertainment.

The aim is to connect Warsaw’s growing vegetarian population with producers and farmers.

Chopin in the Park

Improv Sunday’s

For info see: improve.pl

RECREATION

One to Watch Fire!

Known for their contemporary, experimental sound, Fire! are redefining the very concept of improvised music…

13 & 14 Sept, Pardon, To Tu, pl. Grzybowski 12/16

Parkrun

Every Sat, 9:00 @ Praga (Park Skaryszewski), Ursynów (park next to Bazantarnia), Żoliborz (Kępa Potocka park), Bródno (Park Bródnowski) Improve your run time by participating in the 5k Parkrun held across three locations each Saturday. Unlike the timed races you get in Warsaw, taking part in this one is free of charge.

Tickets zł. 60 @ eventim.pl

Warsaw Vege Festival

Admission free

CONCERT

The International Fryderyk Chopin Competition for Amateur Pianists

For info see: parkrun.pl

FOOD

For further details, see: konkurs.amator. chopin.pl

Sun, 12:00 @ ul. Wawelska 5 Held each Sunday, weather permitting, this event has tapped into Warsaw’s new mania for ‘doing things together’.

While the whole initiative takes meticulous planning, it’s the fun-loving spontaneity that is the most apparent: this is a place of DJs and deckchairs, food stalls and hammocks.

For further info look for them on Facebook.

Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2015

Warsaw Drum Festival

7-12 Sept @ Chopin University of Music, ul. Tamka 43 For a third time amateur pianists will be given a platform to showcase their talents in a competitive environment.

Piknik Warszawski

4

1st Festival of Baroque Music

CONCERT

Fatboy Slim 10 Sept @ Klub ISKRA, ul. Wawelska 5 Considered as something of a pioneer of the Big Beat genre, Fatboy Slim has enjoyed a string of hits over the years with tunes like Praise You and Right Here, Right Now. A legend on the dance scene, tickets are going to go like hotcakes.

Tickets available @ eventim.pl

CONCERT

God is an Astronaut 17 Sept, 20:00 @ Proxima, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 99A Combining ‘epic melodies of post rock and elements of space rock’ God is an Astronaut offer a uniquely hypnotic sound and live performances that are known as being nothing less than a complete audio visual show. Factoid: There is a City, the You Tube / Warsaw Uprising tribute uses one of their tunes in the background.

Tickets available @ eventim.pl

FESTIVAL

International Festival of Contemporary Music 17-27 Sept @ various locations A variety of locations (including the Królikarnia Sculpture Park, Zachęta, Soho Factory, etc.) will play host to a number of workshops, meetings, debates and performances that will involve all manner of weird and avant garde instruments.

debates as well as concerts from Kayhan Kalhor and Ali Bahrami Fard (Iran), the Kocani Orkestar (Macedonia), and Noura Miny Seymali (Mauretania).

For info, see: festival.warszawa.pl

SPORT

Warsaw Marathon 27 Sept, 9:00 @ Most Poniatowskiego The 37th edition of the Warsaw Marathon follows a 42 kilometer route that takes in many of the city’s highlights: among them Łazienki and the Royal Castle. Beginning at Most

Poniatowskiego, and concluding at the National Stadium, the run is expected to draw over 8,500 participants.

For info, see: pzumaratonwarszawski.com

CONCERT

Enter Shikari 28 Sept, 20:00 @ Proxima, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 99A Pioneers of electronicore, Enter Shikari have been described by Kerrang! as ‘a rare, political voice on the UK rock scene’.

Find them in Poland to promote their latest studio album, The Mindsweep.

Tickets available @ eventim.pl

Visit Żelazowa Wola- THE BIRTHPLACE of Fryderyk Chopin

For info, see: warszawska-jesien.art.pl

CONCERT

Scott Weiland & The Wildabouts 18 Sept, 20:00 @ Proxima, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 99A Formerly of the Stone Temple Pilots and Velvet Revolver, the flamboyant Scott Weiland hits Poland as part of a tour to flog his debut album with The Wildabouts, Blaster.

Tickets available @ eventim.pl

SPORT

ECCO Walkathon 20 Sept @ Agrykola/Park Łazienkowski One of the few days when most of Warsaw goes walking en masse. The charity walk winds through the most scenic parts of Warsaw so get your joggers on because for every kilometer, ECCO donates zł. 4 to charity.

Tickets available @ ECCO stores.

FESTIVAL

Cross Culture Festival 21-27 Sept @ various locations The eleventh edition of this annual festival will promote cultural and musical diversity, and will feature workshops and

Booking information: tel. +48 533 49 39 40 www.ChopinPASS.com

Chopin PASS The Fryderyk Chopin Institute, together with CityInfo, have launched a direct connection between Warsaw and Żelazowa Wola as part of a new project entitled ChopinPASS. This package includes admission to the Fryderyk Chopin Museum in Warsaw and to the birthplace of Fryderyk Chopin in Żelazowa Wola, as well as direct transportation between these two institutions.

Taking the stress out of travel, the ChopinPASS allows fans of the composer to make the journey inside a comfortable 8-person minibus equipped with a mini-library of publications relating to the composer. Additionally, so that the trip proceeds in a pleasant atmosphere, passengers have the opportunity to listen to the compositions of Fryderyk Chopin.

Minibus trips to Żelazowa Wola and back run directly to the Fryderyk Chopin Museum in Warsaw, and are available from Tuesday through till Sunday. On weekdays, the minibus makes one trip daily at 11:00 a.m.; on days when recitals are taking place in Żelazowa Wola, two trips are offered at 10:30 a.m. and at 1:00 p.m.

The Warsaw departure point for these is located at the Palace of Culture and Science (in the parking lot between the Congress Hall and Museum of Technology).

The cost of the ChopinPASS package is zł. 99 and visitors can purchase tickets at the box offices in the Palace of Culture and Science and the Fryderyk Chopin Museum in Warsaw, as well as online at: www.chopinpass.com

www.warsawinsider.pl

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in

What’s hot, what’s not: the faces and stories trending around town POLISH ROBBERIES IN NUMBERS!

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million złoty (in today’s terms)

Stolen in Poland’s biggest heist (Wołów, 1962)

4,000 złoty

The amount robbed by a priest in 2009 – he was later apprehended

1929

The year a zł. 30 million heist…

… was foiled in Częstochowa. Had it succeeded, it would have been Europe’s biggest robbery

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Bank robberies

Recorded in 2010 – a national record

LOCAL

ILLUSTRATION BY MARIA MILEŃKO

All Gun Wrong

A Brit who tried holding up a Warsaw bank with a piece of paper and a picture of a gun is facing jail. The hapless 33-year-old walked into a city center bank on Al. Jerozolimskie at 9 a.m. and presented the cashier with a drawing of a gun. He then produced a hand-written note in Polish which said: “This is a robbery. I have gun. Give me money.”

But instead of giving in to the wannabe crook’s demands the cashier reminded him there was a queue and instructed him to sit down. Police spokesman Agnieszka Włodarska said: “The cashier kept her head, told him to rejoin the queue and then called the police.” The man, who police say had only been in Poland for a few hours after arriving from Germany where he had been living for a year, obediently went to the back where he sat with other people waiting to be served. Cops arrived minutes later and arrested him at the scene.

Włodarska said: “At no time did he speak and he did not behave aggressively.” The man, who can’t speak Polish and had used Google to translate his demands, has been charged with attempted robbery and is being held in detention for three months. He has pleaded guilty and now faces up to 12 years behind bars. (EW)

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Bank robberies

Committed by Poland’s most prolific known robber (a university educated farmer)

12

Years in jail

Maximum sentence for armed robbery

4

People killed…

In Poland’s bloodiest bank robbery (Warsaw, 2001)

www.warsawinsider.pl

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news

NATIONAL

Ghost Train Found?

A 70-year-old mystery appears to have been cracked after news broke that a Nazi ‘ghost train’ packed with gold had finally been tracked down in the Sowa Mountains. According to local lore, a train laden with priceless booty was seen departing Wrocław – then Breslau – as the Red Army drew closer, only to disappear in the region of Wałbrzych. Rumored to have been 150 meters long, and packed with over 300 tons of gold, it’s believed that the train was hidden in the vast network of secret tunnels constructed in the mountains. Up until now the transport has eluded treasure hunters, causing many historians to speculate that the story was in fact just another fantastical myth. But two explorers claim to have discovered the haul in August, though have so far refused to reveal the exact location until guarantees that they can claim 10% of the horde’s value are met.

ABROAD

Out For Blood

A strike by migrant Poles working in the UK ended as a damp squib after only three turned up to protest outside Westminster.

With their numbers bumped up by a few British agitators from the Socialist Party, the demonstrators found themselves outnumbered by journalists and bemused onlookers. The action had aimed to highlight the importance of the Polish contribution to the UK amid a rising tide of anti-Polish rhetoric. A rival happening on the same day proved more successful, with over 2,000 migrants donating blood to the National Health Service.

WILDLIFE

A badger that found fleeting global fame has passed away after drinking itself to death. Wanda, a female from the coastal town of Rewal, was discovered collapsed after stealing seven beers from a campsite and embarking on a session.

Rescued by a shelter, the story of the rock’n’roll animal quickly went viral. While she had been expected to make a full recovery, her health took a sudden turn for the worse and she died shortly after.

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Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2015

PHOTOGRAPH TOP LEFT ED WIGHT, ALL OTHER SHUTTERSTOCK

Badgered To Death…

inFront

weather

WHAT A SCORCHER!

A huge upper level ridge of high pressure was blamed for the heatwave that swept over Central Eastern Europe in August, and left Poland facing its first cuts to industrial power supplies since the 1980s. With the rivers used to cool the country’s power stations drying-up, authorities moved to curb power production in an effort to prevent a wider calamity. In Warsaw, temperatures soared to 36.6oC – a record for August – while the Wisła fell to an all-time low of 47cm. In the process, the plummeting water level allowed the river to divulge several of its secrets, among them 18th century bottles, a steamboat sunk during the 1944 Uprising, and original benches from Poniatowski Bridge. In the city, with locals advised to slash their energy consumption, residents took to the streets to cool down at the seven ‘water curtains’ installed around town…

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Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2015

PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT

STATS

40.2°C

Highest temperature recorded in Poland (Proskau, now Prószków in 1921)

24°C

Usual August average for Warsaw

37°C

Highest temperature recorded in Warsaw (1951)

inFront

take a street

Taming Tamka

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Everyone talks about Powiśle like it’s the local answer to Brixton. So why does everyone go cold at the mere mention of Tamka? This issue we redress the balance, looking into the crooks and corners of this overlooked street…

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Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2015

inFront

take a street

Antykwariat na Tamce

SHOPPING Antykwariat na Tamce

ul. Tamka 45B How can you not love this second hand store?

Presided over by a super-friendly hippylooking dude, consider this a mine of rare vinyl (Beatles, Hendrix, Sabbath, weird Polish PRL stuff), as well as 15,000 comics and books (inc. plenty of sci-fi and historical interest).

Antymateria

ul. Tamka 33, antymateria.com Tucked around the back of the main street, this bike store specializes in the sale and repair of lightweight bikes – as such, there’s no shortage of satchel-carrying courier types lurking in the corners.

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Holy Rags

ul. Tamka 45B Looking to reload your wardrobe with a cult vintage look? Do it here. The emphasis is on women, but there’s also occasional pieces for gents. Check out their new arrivals on Facebook.

Sneaker pimps extraordinaire, as verified by a Facebook following of over 22,000. Not bad for a tiny shop that only sells trainers. Brands include New Balance, Asics, Saucony, Nike and Onitsuka Tiger.

Check their page for sales news

Mood Scent Bar

WND Toys

ul. Tamka 33, moodscentbar.com A perfumery whose manifesto involves matching the right scent to the appropriate person: doing so means a proper natter with their expert staff. Bestselling brands include Serge Lutens, LM Parfums and Comme des Garcons.

Street Supply ul. Tamka 37, streetsupply.pl

Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2015

ul. Tamka 37, zabawki.wnd.pl The façade leaves no doubt: it’s all about Lego at WND. This store packs in pretty much all the Lego products you’re after – and by God have they raised the ante since you were wearing shorts.

EAT & DRINK Crepe Cafe ul. Dobra 19, crepecafe.pl

Pancakes: the ultimate comfort food. Here they arrive in over 20 variations, including some you’d never dare to dream of: burger, white Kit Kat, etc. Once the initial surprise subsides you realize these are more than shock factor stunts – the quality is spot on.

Fabryka Lodów Tradycyjnych

ul. Tamka 31 The interior is ugly, almost an afterthought, but when it comes to natural ice cream they’ve got it licked.

Well worth a quick stop.

OSiR

ul. Tamka 40, osir-cafe.blogspot.com A self-declared ‘cycle culture cafe’.

That means lots of bike-

related props and cycling propaganda inside a raw and ready hideout that attracts a cool and tranquil crowd sipping alternative beers.

Stor

ul. Tamka 33 Small but perfectly formed, this corner stop has all the clack and clatter of a busy neighborhood café.

Regional beers, Chemex and Aeropress coffee and gluten-free snacks and sandwiches provide plenty of reason to pop by and idle over Kindle.

Tamka 43

ul. Tamka 43, tamka43.pl Ground floor: upmarket cafe serving Chopin fans. Upstairs: a fine dining restaurant in which Rafał Hreczaniuk

Restaurant DomPolski

We invite you to our two locations.pl ul. Francuska 11 Ph. 22 616 2432 ul. Belwederska 18 A Ph. 22 840 5060 francuska@restauracjadompolski.pl belwederska@restauracjadompolski.pl www.restauracjadompolski.pl

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take a street

Chopin Museum ul. Okólnik 1, chopin.museum Stor

Golden Duck

sets the natural flavors of Poland against the culinary know-how of tomorrow. It’s easy to drop serious money here, but you’ll still feel it’s worthwhile.

200th birthday. The aim, apparently, was to show Chopin as a man who lived life to the full, hence the cigars, fast cars, banknotes and bling.

painted on the doorway of No. 45: that’s an original remnant from the building’s fleeting function as a first aid station.

Vege Bistro

Coca Cola Mural

ul. Tamka 36 Pass the sunglasses.

This red horror went up earlier in the year and commemorates 100 years of the iconic Coca Cola bottle. With the Chopin mural on the other side, it’s a coin toss as to which wall is worse.

In front of Tamka 37 One of Warsaw’s enduring legends. That sad little fountain you see honors a princess that was turned into a duck (!). The story is too long for this space, so Google around. Spoiler: it involves gold, a young cobbler and a feel good moral.

Dressing Station

Mermaid

ul. Kopernika 25, vegebistro.pl The clue is in the name.

We dropped in for a vege burger and, using Krowarzywa as the benchmark, were left disappointed by both the quality and the price. Here’s hoping you have better luck.

SIGHTSEEING Chopin Mural

ul. Tamka 37 Covering 300 sq/m, this mural was commissioned as part of the celebrations marking Chopin’s

The 18th century Ostrogski Palace (of course, rebuilt after WWII) has seen it all: over the years it’s served as a police HQ, Napoleonic hospital and a homeless shelter. Now reinvented as the Chopin museum, the setting is the perfect foil for the ultra-modern content.

Naturally, this is not a place to stand still, and as of this year a new exhibition has been added titled Seen / Unseen. Purchased from the private collection of a distant relative of the composer, the exhibition presents some of the tiny everyday items retrieved from Chopin’s last apartment.

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ul. Tamka 45 Tamka’s involvement in the 1944 Warsaw Uprising is communicated via numerous memorials.

But most people miss the red and white cross

Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2015

Golden Duck

By Świętokrzyski Bridge The face of Warsaw’s fish-tailed mascot was modelled on the 23-year-old poet Krystyna Krahelska. She was fatally shot on the

first day of the Uprising.

The mermaid just about made it through the war, albeit with 34 bullet holes visible to this day.

Residential Towers

ul. Tamka 49 & 40 Okay, they’re not attractive, but architecture buffs might appreciate the form of this pair of towers. Built in 1961, they’re inspired by the school of design popular in South America at the time. No. 49, incidentally, was formerly the Journalists’ Housing Co-op.

St. Teresa’s Church

ul. Tamka 4A Not Warsaw’s most magnificent church by any means, but it’s well worth a gander on

a rainy day. Opened in 1938, it kept stubbornly going for services until it’s near complete destruction in 1944 – for proof, check the pictures inside the main entrance. It was finally reopened in 1969.

Świętokrzyski Bridge

Bottom of Tamka Completed in 2000 at a cost of zł. 160 million, Warsaw’s first suspension bridge controversially replaced the 15-year-old Most Syreny.

Unpopular at the start, the 479 meter construction has since grown to become symbolic of modern Warsaw and is a frequent sight on the TV: allegedly it’s the most filmed bridge in PL and has appeared in numerous ads and music vids.

Palace of Culture and Science

Chmiel Cafe k Wido

ielna Chm

kie lims rozo al. Je

Bra cka

za Kruc

Metro Centrum

Zgo da

iat y Ĺšw Now

ZĹ‚ota

OVER 100 BELGIAN BEERS to choose from. The most exclusive collection in Warsaw and the most Belgian way of serving beer.

To accompany our collection of Belgian beer we have a NEW MENU featuring grilled sandwiches, savory pancakes, cheese bruschetta and many other delicious things.

Located on CHMIELNA STREET in the center of Warsaw where lots of exciting things happen at all times of the day.

Chmiel Cafe

ul. Chmielna 27/31, open Sun-Thu 10:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-last guest, chmielcafe.pl

inFront

trends

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Ingredients

50ml light rum 50ml fresh pineapple juice 15ml homemade pomegranate syrup (below) 15ml Luxardo Maraschino liqueur

Method

Add all ingredients into a shaker, fill with ice and shake hard and then double strain into a cocktail glass. Garnish with a slice of pineapple and a Maraschino cherry.

Sips & The City

Bram D. Berthelsen, the resident cocktail king of Karowa 31 takes a look at global trends and the drinks expats – and locals – should be drinking this fall…

USA For a long time the American bar scene has celebrated its pre-Prohibition cocktails, with the main focus traditionally falling on knowledge, technique and prestige: all this in intimate venues with smooth jazz playing from the speakers. Basically, the Americans are known for a ‘serious’ bar scene that’s quality oriented. But more and more casual bars are popping up with louder music, and an eye on ‘fun’ cocktail menus, not to mention speeding-up the service without ever compromising the quality. Drinks-wise, Tiki cocktails are getting a big hype alongside beer and fortified wine beverages.

So the cocktail I’m rustling up to reflect American trends in 2015 is a drink with its roots in the Prohibition era.

Named after the Canadian/American actress of the same name, the Mary Pickford goes well with the new Tiki theme while retaining the look of a true American classic.

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inFront

trends

Ingredients

50ml aged rum

50ml coconut water 1 tsp powder sugar 1 cinnamon stick 2 cloves

Method

Add coconut water, sugar and spices to a mug then heat to boil with a blowtorch. Add the rum, light on fire and pour the flaming liquid from one mug to the other.

Serve in a warm tin mug, with the zest of an orange for garnish.

Poland The cocktail door only opened recently in Poland, but now everyone is jumping through head first. Most bars are focusing on personal customer service to educate and get the “new explorers” excited about the industry: that means experimenting with different styles, techniques and perfecting flavors. In fact, so much has happened on the scene in the last few years, it’s hard to put a finger on just what the latest trend is. Everything is pretty new. So for a Warsaw-style cocktail I’ve actually gone for an old American classic called the Blue Blazer and spiced it up a notch to prep you for the upcoming winter. Here’s the Coco Blazer!

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Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2015

2014 Now Serving Draught Grimbergen Home delivery up to 6 km 5 PLN, 6km and more 10 PLN al. Solidarności 129/131, tel. 536 335 333, open daily 12:00 -22:00 More info: www.facebook.com/madraskuchniaindyjska

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trends

UK Like the States, you’ll find every type of cocktail bar in London. But for the past few years the ‘speed bars’ so popular in the UK, with their hip hop and rock music pounding from the speakers, are getting fewer and fewer. More ‘serious’ bars are getting attention, while still using the fun gimmicks the casual bars provide. In a way, you could say that the UK and US are switching styles in that respect. As for trends, this year – like last year – is the big novelty ‘sharing serve’: large ouch-style cocktails served in all manner of fun vessels. Even watering cans! Healthy, low calorie drinks are also very popular at the moment.

Anyway, to represent London I’ve gone for an easy remake of Douglas Ankrah’s, Soho-born modern classic, the Pornstar Martini: the Carbonated Pornstar! It’s perfect for sharing and you can take it anywhere!

Ingredients

50ml vodka 40ml apple juice 20ml homemade vanilla syrup 20ml Passoa 30ml passion fruit 50ml still water 30ml white wine

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Method

Add all ingredients into a soda siphon (or anything else that can carbonate) and fill with Co2 and shake.

Leave for a few minutes then pour the liquid into a bottle and seal. Refrigerate until 6 degrees. Increase the amount by four for ‘sharing size’.

Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2015

BEGINNER’S GUIDE TO WARSAW Clockwise from top left corner: Krowarzywa, part of the new wave of vegetarian venues; the Palace of Culture; National Stadium; riverbank bars; the courtyard shrines of Praga; Neon Museum; Chrum, one of the local fashion stores in Powiśle; 6 Cocktails

ABSOLUTE BEGINNERS Traditionally speaking, September brings with it a fresh catch of ex-pats and assorted new arrivals. But rather than hanging out the Welcome to Warsaw banner we’ve gone one better: compiled a bullet point guide introducing the best of the city…

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Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2015

www.warsawinsider.pl

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BEGINNER’S GUIDE TO WARSAW

FOOD

The New Polish Movement

Polish cuisine is the midst of being reconstructed and rehabilitated. No longer is it a swill of cabbage, lard and things that make you go parp; a growing number of restaurants are exploring new methods and techniques whilst using the country’s rich agricultural tradition to their advantage. Varso Vie, Soul Kitchen Bistro, Solec 44 and Mała Polana Smaków are a good case in point.

Farmers’ Markets

Unless you want to play dodgems with other trollies in the aisle then forget your local supermarket. Farmers’ markets have popped up like toast, allowing visitors to root through muddy veg and seasonal produce that’s fresh from the field. Favorites include Forteca, Bio Bazar and Bazar Olkuska.

Celebrity Chefs

With Hell’s Kitchen-type shows flourishing, chefs have been elevated to some demi-God status. Every restaurant worth its salt is busy promoting its chef as a star, and they’ll sure make you feel bad if you haven’t heard of them.

But the biggest name of all? Wojciech Amaro.

Guardian of Poland’s only Michelin star, his name is considered as a kind of gold standard.

Tasting Menus

Forego a la carte and instead let the chef take you for a spin around the kitchen. A small pack of fine dining restaurants offer multi-course tasting menus allowing diners the chance to scrutinize their skill set. Off the top of our heads: Senses, Salto, Nolita and L’enfant Terrible are four to watch.

Lunch Deals

Eating out does not require elastic pockets.

Nearly every restaurant out there offers a special Monday-Friday lunch deal with cut-price food served in a fast turnaround time. For the undisputed Deal of the Day head to Concept 13 where a five course extravaganza is yours from zł. 50.

Trends

Welcome to lemming city. The moment someone executes a good idea a host of copycats follow: with varying degrees of success. At the start of the millennium that meant sushi and fusion (remember that word?). In recent years burgers, food trucks and artisan this and that have crested, though the most encouraging of all has been the increasing profile of the vegetarian way.

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Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2015

From top: Michelin rated Wojciech Amaro; the rise of the food trucks continues unabated; Soul Kitchen Bistro.

DRINKS

Craft Beer Bars

sixth sense to discover Weles. Rewards come in the form of beautiful in-house inventions.

Warsaw first escaped the grip of the macrobreweries in 2013, and hasn’t stopped to look back. Multi-tap and smaller ‘quali-tap’ bars are the in-thing, selling increasingly wacky craft beers from home and abroad. The gold rush reaches its apex with the bi-annual Warsaw Beer Festival (next edition: Oct 15-17). In the meantime, check firm favorites such as Kufle, Cześć, Cuda and Chmielarnia.

The little people be damned. Summer found Warsaw’s sexy things drinking in the clouds, namely in rooftop bars such as Level 27 and The View. For a calmer environment that’s less ‘LOOK AT ME’, traditionalists should check the Panorama Bar on the Marriott’s 40th floor.

The Riverfront

The Pavilions

Sky High

So you’ve missed them at their best, but Warsaw’s seasonal riverfront bars will be enjoying one last hurrah before the cold wind blows.

Occupying both banks find a wealth of bars – some set on barges, others right on the beach – that party long into the night: at times, the atmosphere is one of carnival-style chaos.

Step through the narrow passageway on Nowy Świat 22/28 and emerge into a cauldron of carnage. Approximately 20 or so bars await, all set in prefabricated cabins enveloped in a thick coat of murk. True, it’s mainly students here, but everyone has a blast – cut-price and positively riotous at night, they’re a Warsaw rite of passage.

Secret Cocktails

Vodka

Tipping point has been reached. Jaded by second rate efforts, a new style of bar has set about redefining the cocktail. While some are easily located, others call for an investigative nose: step through a secret wall of videos at Karowa 31, ring a buzzer at 6 Cocktails, or just use your

Clockwise from top left corner: Level 27; the pavilions; craft beer at Kufle i Kapsle.

For a clean, premium vodka look for the excellent Vestal label (produced in the north by a former New Zealand war correspondent!): any cocktail bar stocking this is serious. And don’t miss Dom Wódki, or any of the cheaper shot bars such as Pijalnia and Meta. They’re a hoot. www.warsawinsider.pl

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BEGINNER’S GUIDE TO WARSAW

SHOPS

Clockwise from top: Spod Lady; Vitkac department store; Kolo Sunday bazaar.

Malls, etc.

True style mavens flock to Vitkac. Dubbed Poland’s first luxury department store, it’s awash with daring offerings from the biggest names in global fashion. More affordable, just, is Klif, with its healthy spread of off-the-peg designer labels. Finally, the Mysia 3 store caters to a more hipsterish, creative crowd with clothing that reflects this.

Polish Stars

To get a true sense of what Warsaw is about then visit Mokotowska. Lined with tall, pre-war tenements, it’s a reminder of the days when the city was hailed as the Paris of the East. Filled with niche boutiques, it’s where the doyens of the Polish fashion world – such as Maciej Zien and Robert Kupisz – have set up HQ, and their doors see a constant in-out procession of local celebs.

Markets

One man’s junk is another man’s treasure. Ponder that while you pick through the merchandise at Sunday’s Kolo Antique Market: communist vinyl, antiques in different stages of disintegration, creepy war finds and general tat. Others of note:

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Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2015

the Sunday camera market at Stodoła, Warsaw’s weekend computer market, not to mention the ultra-cool yard sales you’ll see advertised on Facebook (look for Mustache Warsaw).

Local Heroes

Polish design is enjoying a massive resurgence.

For fashion, lifestyle accessories and furniture/ homeware then trawl around the independent stores of Powiśle comes highly recommended.

Arrive with no plan and just hop from store to store. It’s a district that rewards curious minds.

Likewise, take a trip up to Soho Factory to peruse the stores up there: for local art and design put Magazyn Praga at the top of your list.

Souvenirs

For something truly alternative then head to Spod Lady on Chmielna, a subterranean store filled with so-called ost-algia – modern gifts and trinkets designed using communist aesthetics.

For quirky books about Warsaw, a visit to the diminutive Fundacja Bęc Zmiana is also recommended. Those wanting to read-up on the city’s history, meanwhile, should make a beeline for the dusty bookstore at Dom Spotkań z Historią.

SIGHTS The Fab Four

Poland has embraced a new way of viewing the past. Rated as amongst the most technologically advanced in Europe, the museums dedicated to the Warsaw Rising, Chopin and the History of Polish Jews deservedly sit at the top of any itinerary. Back to the future, and the Copernicus Science Center is a brilliant day out.

Missed Me?

Poland’s tallest building, the Palace of Culture, is literally unmissable. Gifted to Poland by Stalin, what was once seen as an unwelcome reminder of paranoid times has seen attitudes soften: if you’re new to town, the top floor viewing platform is almost an obligation! And now there’s more – tours of the secret passages below ground level are now on offer.

Old Gold

Get used to hearing how Warsaw was flattened during the war. The Old Town took a particular bruising, so its UNESCO listed streets can feel a little like an artificial film set – but they remain a must. Learn more about the district’s destruction and subsequent revival at the Heritage Interpretation Center.

Tours With A Twist

From top: the reconstructed Old Town; Polin – the Museum of the History of Polish Jews; Park Miniatury.

Those looking to peel apart Warsaw’s historical layers can jump onto the City Sightseeing bus.

The route runs past all the key sights. But for something different, take a look at Adventure Warsaw. Conducting tours around the town’s alternative sights in militia vans, the schedule includes vodka and chats with local eccentrics.

In The Know

Remember the little guys! There’s several lesserknown museums that demand attention: walk amid glowing old signage at the Neon Museum, experience the world of the blind at the Invisible Exhibition, stop for a nip of vodka at the Museum of Life Under Communism, and see what pre-war Warsaw was like at the Park Miniatury.

The Other Side

Warsaw’s right bank elicits mixed feelings.

The Saska Kępa suburb is one of the most affluent in the city, and its modernist architecture makes for a great Sunday walk. Nearby, book a tour of the National Stadium before heading north to the more decrepit Praga Północ area: its pre-war tenements are a glimpse into a different world and the courtyard shrines a source of fascination (using caution / common sense here is advised).

www.warsawinsider.pl

29

Hope Against Hope

It’s a picture that has compelled people for decades: now, the search is on to the girl pictured in one of the classic photos of post-war Warsaw.

BY STUART DOWELL

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Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2015

W

arsaw, 1946. A young girl, possibly 8 or 9 years old, although after years of wartime deprivation possibly older, stands on top of a building wearing shoes and a blouse that are too big for her. As she looks out across what was formerly the Warsaw Ghetto, her gaze met by an ocean of total devastation, she brushes her windswept hair away from her eyes.

Who was she? What was she thinking as she took in that bleak panorama? What happened to her during the war and after? Is she still alive? These are some of the questions that prompted Patryjcja Jastrzębska from the MASŁAW Mazowsze Appreciation Society to

launch an appeal to find out who the girl was. The search has created a huge amount of interest in many countries and the campaign has involved social media appeals, presentations and a poster campaign around Muranów where the picture was taken.

Just a few days after launching the appeal, someone came forward saying that they knew who the girl was and gave a name and address – in Sydney, Australia. Contact was made and indeed the woman had lived in Muranów, the district where the photo was taken, just after the war.

She was deeply moved by the picture but finally admitted that she couldn’t remember ever posing for a picture on top of a building.

PROFIMEDIA/CORBIS/REGINALD KENNY

POST-WAR MYSTERY

The girl in the photograph in her oversized clothes adds a touching innocence to the horror of the scene...

A short while later, a different person came forward saying that he knew of a woman now living in Pomerania but who used to live in Muranów and who had often mentioned that she walked around in shoes that were too big for her. That lead is currently being followed up.

The photograph was taken by Reginald Kenny, a photographer from the US who in April 1946 was accompanying former US president Herbert Hoover, who was visiting Warsaw to discuss humanitarian assistance. Some inspired sleuthing by local journalist Marek Kossakowski has pinpointed the location of the building on which the girl stood as ul. Stawki 5/7. Erected in 1938, the building originally housed a school but it was used during the war by the SS to organise the deportation of around 300,000 Jews from the Warsaw Ghetto. The building’s location was convenient for the SS as it was opposite the German-created Umschlagplatz, a walled-in square where Jews were processed before being packed into cattle wagons bound for the gas chambers of Treblinka.

The building currently accommodates Warsaw University’s Faculty of Psychology.

The girl in the photograph in her oversized clothes adds a touching innocence to the horror of the scene that she is viewing; creating an image that is not simply one of the thousands of photos showing the scale of Warsaw’s wartime devastation but one that is iconic of that time. The attempts to find out the girl’s identity are valuable and understandable; however, the photograph’s real power comes from the way that is shows how the Ghetto, as Patrycja Jastrzębska says, “was reduced not into ruins but quite literally into a pile of rubble”.

The Building

Stawki 5/7, the building from which the picture was taken, was one of only a handful that survived the razing of the Ghetto. It’s inglorious past is commemorated by way of a stone tablet that reads: “From this command building a branch of the SS oversaw the 1942-1943 deportations from Umschlagplatz from which thousands of inhabitants of the Ghetto were taken each day to the Treblinka death camp.”

After the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising of 19 April to 16 May 1943 in which around 1000 Jewish fighters fought not for their freedom but for death on their own terms, and after the subsequent slaughter or deportation of around 71,000 remaining Ghetto inhabitants, the head of the SS Heinrich Himmler ordered that the Ghetto be completely demolished. In his earlier secret order of 16 February 1943 he stated “…we must achieve the disappearance from sight of the living-space for 500,000 sub-humans that has existed up to now, but could never be suitable for Germans...”

After the Ghetto had been turned into a desert of bricks and stone, the Germans used it as a killing site for Poles held prisoner at the nearby

Pawiak prison. The Ghetto also housed the Gęsiówka concentration camp, in which a small number of Jews were held to recover valuable materials from the rubble and coax out Jews who were hiding. Upon being found they would be shot and the Gęsiówka inmates would have to pile them up and burn them. The conditions were so appalling and the work so gruesome that one small group of Greek Jews sent to work there pleaded with their SS guards to be allowed to go back to Auschwitz.

The organisers of the appeal are still asking for any information about the girl’s identity to be sent to tubylotustalo@gmail.com. www.warsawinsider.pl

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TRAVEL MAZURY/WARMIA

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Northern Light

Using the town of Reszel as its base, the Insider head north to experience the high and lows of Warmia and Mazury‌

BY ALEX WEBBER | PHOTOS BY ED WIGHT

www.warsawinsider.pl

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A

TRAVEL MAZURY/WARMIA lthough the air-conditioning is whacked to max, everyone in the car is shattered and spent. The landscape is parched and blistered and we’ve wilted in sympathy: no-one wants to say it, but there’s an unspoken feeling that embarking on a road trip in the midst of a heatwave hasn’t been clever. Even the car is sweating it – what should have been a three hour drive has turned into five.

As arduous as it might be, I know this journey is worthwhile. I’ve done it before. And soon enough, I know the others will agree. Our target, Reszel, is breathtaking, and as entrances go, this one’s pure magic: crossing a Gothic bridge that arcs over the River Sajna, we pass a neat row of townhouses before coming to a halt in front of the colossal bastion that looms over town. Balanced on a slab of rock, this 14th century fortress – originally intended for the Bishops of Warmia – has for the last couple of decades been serving as a hotel. Peering up at the hulk, we pause to allow the sensation to settle: for the next two nights this beast will be home.

Handed clunky keys that could pass for instruments of the Inquisition, we drag our baggage over the courtyard cobbles before parting separate ways to locate our rooms. Being a castle, this isn’t as easy it sounds, and involves labyrinthine corridors and treacherous stairs. “Really,” my girlfriend asks, “I’m meant to climb up those?” For a moment, I wonder how many at-risk people – the frail, infirm and chronically hungover – might have slipped to their deaths.

But the recompense is ample. Sure, the accommodation has something of a faded Ikea air, but that’s all offset by plenty of trimmings that leave you feeling like Rapunzel: gazing through a narrow slit-window over the valley below, we take stock of the view. I feel like I’m the King.

Back on ground level, my ego still rampant, we meet the others and set-off to explore. Grid-like in layout, the compact Old Town is quickly traversed. Largely rebuilt following a fire in 1806, it’s a pretty little place of red tiled roofs and ivy-clad walls.

Winding downhill, we find ourselves emerging by the iconic bridge. Stood

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on tall, thin legs, its current guise is a throwback to its original mediaeval form. But don’t think it’s always been like this: the mouse hole cavern cut high into the brickwork is a reminder of the years in between when the structure was peppered with tiny cells housing prisoners and the poor.

Following the curl of the river we are led into Park Miejski, a deep ravine interspersed with bouncy footbridges and zig-zagging stairwells that fade into the dusk. With the last streams of sunlight angling through the trees, we finish the walk soaked in the swampy green glow of the dense forest roof.

Picturing a mediaeval banquet we return to the hotel prepared for a feast. But Reszel disappoints. Instead of a whole-roasted hog with an apple in its mouth we instead poke our way through half-heated dogfood and a hideous fish with gleaming yellow eyes. I think of Chernobyl. Yet not all is lost. If not for the food, people boomerang back to this castle for the atmosphere. Over drinks the barman regales us with whispered stories about the zamek’s ghoulish past: turns out, the bar is above the dungeon, and it is there that a local girl called Barbara was held in captivity accused of witchcraft and arson.

Eventually torched to death in 1811, her execution was the last of its kind in Europe, and it’s said her unforgiving specter still roams about. On a nearby wall, scribbled signatures proudly attest to the visit of the Ghosthunters Hunters International

TV crew. It proves a long session, but our delayed departure is repaid by our own private light show – exiting, we find the sky dappled with Perseids and meteor trails; the shower of fire and light is stunning in its scope, a cosmic cascade of tumbling stars and unearthly glimmers. Within minutes I’ve gone from staggering to staggered.

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fter the celestial pageantry of the night before, the next day has a lot to live up to. Having already chalked off pretty much all Reszel offers, the plan is a series of excursions through which we’ll join the dots that comprise the region’s key attractions. First up, Sztynort, a lakeside village whose normal population of 170 swells with the onset of sailing season. Sure enough, as we approach the lake it’s heavily flecked with sleek white yachts glistening in the sun. With no boat, and no sailing license between us, we present ourselves at the ‘Kapitanat’ building and voice our demands: they being a boat and someone who knows what to do with it. “No probs,” comes the answer, “be here in 30 minutes.”

The break gives us a chance to walk around the derelict Steinort Palace nearby – once the property of the Lehndorff family, the estate was renowned for its collection of Arabic horses and ancient oaks, though is probably more famous for being appropriated by Ribbentrop, the German Foreign Affairs Minister, during the last years of the war. It’s said he

arrived into town accompanied by carriages brimming with vintage wine and antique furniture snatched from the Jews and gentry of Warsaw.

Now, work is underway to repurpose the building as a luxury hotel, with only a memorial boulder reminding visitors of the role the mansion’s rightful owner played in the plot to kill Hitler.

With the sightseeing done, we return to the Kapitanat ready for our nautical adventure. I’m expecting to be pressganged by a salty seadog with tales of giant squids and naval engagements, but instead we’re met by a muscly Tom Cruise with wraparound shades. Despite the broadest pirate accent I can muster, I can sense our Hollywood hero

recognizes us as big city landlubbers, and for the first part of the journey we glide along calmly outpaced by ducks. Then, in the roar of an engine, it’s hold onto your hats as the boat zooms into life. For the next 30 minutes our trip turns into Mission Impossible with lots of high-octane thrills and preposterous turns. As the boat darts across the water, our skipper nimbly maneuvers us between more sedate vessels leaving a trail of spray in our wake. It’s exhilarating, and by the time we’re back on shore my heart is in my mouth.

And there it stays, for the escapades aren’t over. Next is a visit to Park Linowy Leśniewo, which I’ve fooled the photographer into thinking is a lion park. “You’re kidding,” he ex

www.warsawinsider.pl

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TRAVEL MAZURY/WARMIA claims, “so in the middle of Mazuria you’ve got a pride of lions pacing around?” “That’s right,” I confirm, “and you need to be bloody careful – killed a whole family last year.” If only. What we’re about to experience is far more terrifying. Found in an abandoned canal lock, this seasonal line park has breathed life into an installation that once formed part of an ambitious but ultimately unrealized plan to link Mazuria with the Baltic Sea. First initiated in 1911, construction hit a peak between 1934 and 1940, and the creepy imprint of a giant Nazi eagle still decorates the concrete. Accessed via a wobbly rope bridge, the top of the lock is open for those with a serious head for heights.

Its showpiece, though, is a zip-line that takes visitors hurtling over the murky water and into the woodland below. One, two, three – Geronimo!

What follows is ten seconds of adrenaline rush, then five seconds of thinking you’re going slam into the ground and never walk again.

centric design and warm welcome – before we know it the four of us have been joined by a local footballer and his wisecracking dad. Conversation flows, and so too the drinks. Such is the merriment, at one stage the photographer toasts the footballer for being ‘the funniest man in Poland’.

Morning, and checkout does not mean an end. We make the short drive to Wolf ’s Lair, where we clamber over the jagged, smashed remains of Hitler’s Eastern HQ. Moss-clad, and with trees shooting from them, the remnants of these tomb-like bunkers pay epic testament to the

regime’s utter madness. But we end on a high note: escaping the gloom we finish our tour at Mazurolandia down the road. Featuring a couple of goats, inflatable castles and the opportunity to fight your friends with wooden swords, it’s a bizarre theme park that feels fragmented, disorganized and a little bit random. But what fun! And there’s the miniature park, an area showcasing the area’s highlights in their shrunken form. Gosh, I think, there’s still so much to see. Next time, I promise, safe in the knowledge that time will soon come.

I’

m shaking for an hour afterwards, but the quirks of the Mazurian scenery serve-up plenty of distractions: a Dutch-style windmill (for sale, and yours for 2.5 million zeds), a pair of giant bees marking the entrance to the town of Solanka and, as we approach Reszel, the salmon pink splendor of the Święta Lipka church – it’s a feast of Baroque flash and dazzle.

Pulling in pilgrims since the 13th century, the church was borne from one of Poland’s best loved legends: so the story goes, on the eve of his execution, a convict held in Kętrzyn Castle was visited by the Virgin Mary who presented the vagabond with a chunk of linden to carve an effigy of her. The result was so beautiful that the judges interpreted it as a sign from the heavens and freed him – making his way home, the grateful ex-con spotted a linden tree and there hung his carving. Miracles have been occurring ever since, with worshippers first flocking to a modest wooden church built on the site, and later to the intricate complex that you see today. Ourselves, we experience our own miracle back in Reszel. Smarting from yesterday’s dining disaster, we instead choose to convene in Feniks Pizzeria, a place remarkable for its edible food, ec-

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ESSENTIALS

Reszel Castle / Hotel zamek-reszel.com Leśniewo Park Linowy facebook.com/ lesniewo.park.linowy Mazurolandia mazurolandia.pl Wolf’s Lair wolfsschanze.pl Jadwiga Korowaj (Wolf’s Lair guide) jagoda10@poczta.onet.pl

GETTING THERE

One word: car. As in, you’re going to need one. Reszel lies 231 km north of Warsaw, with journey time usually taking three and a half hours – it can be more, can be less. If you’re determined, it is actually possible to get to the nearest big city, Kętrzyn, in just under five hours by train. From there, Reszel is 20 km, with the hotel offering a pick-up service from the station if ordered in advance.

Reszel Warsaw

LISTINGS RESTAURANTS 48 CAFES & WINE BARS 76 NIGHTLIFE 80 SHOPPING 87 FAMILY 90 HEALTH & BEAUTY 95 IN THE CITY 98

Ace in the Hole

Just what Warsaw needs: a place full of everlasting love for the humble donut.

Only here they’re not so humble – inspired by their travels to New York, owners Kamila and Patrycja have filled a hole in the market by creating a cool spot that’s committed to natural ingredients and the artisan process. That means no shortcuts and zero artificial dyes: really, those glistening technicolors you see are down to the use of fresh fruit and dried flowers! Soft and chewy, enjoy dazzling flavors such as mango or hibiscus – you could order one, but will one be enough?

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

MOD ul. Oleandrów 8

www.warsawinsider.pl

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REVIEWS

The Silent Virtuoso

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t’s all about the chef now. On billboards, online, on TV: everywhere I look, there’s a chef staring me down, usually in a bad boy pose as if spoiling for a fight. Warsaw’s fallen in love with cooking, and a side-effect has been the growing worship of the warriors in the kitchen. Great? Not so fast. A number of these chefs are in your newspapers on merit, and it’s only fair enough they’re getting their share of recognition. But the others? You sense they’ve been placed on a totem for no other reason than looking good in their whites. And with so many restaurants promoting their chefs as buccaneering stars with brave, new ideas, you get the idea it’s all something of a sham: a hollow exercise in myth making.

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That’s one end of the scale. On the other you have lads like Wojciech Kilian, a chef who seemingly eschews the limelight: coaxing him out of the kitchen for a snap is just about the hardest assignment the photographer’s ever faced. And that, I find, is immensely reassuring: at last, a chef who doesn’t want to be in a magazine, he just wants to make your dinner – that gets my respect. Not just mine, either: Kilian’s work backstage has caught the eye of not only local diners, but also Michelin who deemed his Signature restaurant worthy of inclusion in this year’s edition of their Main Cities of Europe guide.

What’s the fuss about? Well, before the food, there’s the restaurant itself: beautiful. Those aren’t words you’d usually associate

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

Wojciech Kilian extends his reputation with a stellar performance

with a former Soviet Embassy, but that’s just what it is – think fancy columns, Oswald chairs restored from the 50s, and walls clad with photography from the canon of Milton Greene: no kidding, if ever the restaurant went bust they could just auction the tables off and relaunch as a gallery.

Of course, that’s not going to happen: food-wise, Signature makes a big splash with a seasonally modified menu through which Kilian expresses his considerable talents. Starters are marinated scallops that are creamy, soft and served amid artsy whirls and razor thin-radish; there’s a pan-seared foie gras, with grapefruit preserve and a ‘tree cake’ that’s wholesome and motherly – a Polish-Lithuanian specialty; and the highlight, a goat tartar in a ginger-cucumber sauce.

All three starters are intelligent works of meticulous precision: clever, creative, pretty. It’s with the mains that the real substance arrives. Grass-fed lamb, sourced from the village of Rupin, is presented by Kilian himself, with the chef making a tableside appearance to pour the truffle sauce. It’s an accomplished dish, but the real hero is actually the catfish. Served in a red wine sauce

on a bed of potatoes, it’s an extraordinary combination that’s succeeds in being both light and delicate and yet rolling with complex flavors. How has Kilian done this? More importantly, how is it that for the first time in my life I prefer fish over meat?

Big questions, no answers – but one very happy diner.

Some of my favorite desserts have rolled out of Signature’s kitchen, and this visit the star turn belongs to what the menu identifies as being Jersey cheese and white chocolate cheesecake, with rhubarb and vanilla sauce. It’s gloriously thick and heavy, but again not to the point of overwhelming. It’s the kind of dessert that gets visitors leaning back at the end and allowing themselves a private moment of smug satisfaction. And that’s a sentiment that applies to pretty much all we’ve had – but, I guess, that’s no surprise: it’s simply what happens when you get a talented chef who thinks about diners first, himself second. (AW) Signature

ul. Poznańska 15, signaturerestaurant.pl www.warsawinsider.pl

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REVIEWS

BOTTLE WATCH:

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Great Balls of Fire Warsaw crowns its King of Falafel…

ne thing I love about really good cheap food is that it breaks social and economic class barriers; people of all backgrounds come together as one.

There’s a few milk bars that have the power to do this, and I’ve spotted BMWs outside Bambino on more than one occasion. But there’s only so much soup and schabowy you can eat, so it’s refreshing to find there’s a few ethnic eateries that also hit the mark. Specifically, when I say that I’ve have Falafel Bejrut in mind. Originally born as a food cart outside Hala Mirowska, their new venture steams with the heat of the deep fryer, not to mention all those people squashed-up trying to decipher the menu. Myself, I’m converted to their hummus falafel which comes with jalapenos and a little kick of hot sauce. The secret ingredient here is an extra pinch of cilantro and parsley, which helps this pocket of pleasure come together in a whirr of freshness. If you’re hanging around, order the falafel plate – decorated with gobs of pomegranate seeds – and take a seat on the upturned Fritz Cola crates. Or, do as I do, and use the nearby Saski Gardens as your al fresco dining room. (KD) Falafel Bejrut

ul. Senatorska 40, facebook. com/FalafelBejrutWarsaw

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The Brewery: launched in 2012, Ale Browar were part of the first wave of craft breweries that sparked Poland’s brewolution. Formed by three mates who jacked in the rat race so as to pursue their passion, the trio have become royalty on the domestic brewing circuit. “We live in exciting times,” they say, “so it’s time for exciting beers.”

The Beer: pleasantly hopped, Be Like Mitch marks a triumphant return to form for the lads at Ale Browar. Light, crisp and refreshing, this wheat beer comes with citrusy, tropical notes, and a mild bitter finish: it’s almost as if it was brewed with a heatwave in mind. And full marks for the playful, Baywatch inspired label. In our eyes, the best beer they’ve produced since King Of Hop.

PHOTOGRAPHS ON LEFT KEVIN DEMARIA, TOP RIGHT IAN FERGUSON

Be Like Mitch

Design For Life

A mine of contemporary creativity, Product Placement sets design pieces from established names alongside fresh talent taking its first steps in the outside world; reflecting that, find price points that range from accessible to OMG. If there is a consistent theme, then it’s their loyalty to homegrown designers. Principally dealing with interior items, this dynamic space has achieved must-visit status amongst those looking to trick out their apartment in a style that’s bold, engaging and never dull.

Product Placement

PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

ul. Leszczyńska 12, polishdesignnow.com

www.warsawinsider.pl

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Partner News The latest marketplace news from the Warsaw Insider’s friends and advertisers…

Ice Cool

Catering to an upmarket crowd, Dom Wódki impresses with an interior heavy with glinting vodka bottles and distressed fittings. Surprisingly, this is just about the first upscale vodka bar modern Warsaw has ever seen: given the premium location expect it to rise above mere cult status.

Dom Wódki Pl. Teatralny 1

BOOKS FINAL 2015 FRONT.pdf 1 7.8.2015 16:10:49

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In The Limelight

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Life Is A Cabaret!

Room With A View

From September 3rd the Sofitel Warsaw Victoria will host Limelight, an exhibition that presents the characters that changed the world of art, entertainment and showbiz as seen through the photographic lens of France and Britain’s top photographers. The exhibition will run until the end of October.

The Warsaw branch of Bar & Books has piqued curiosity with its refined air and colonial style.

For a real night to remember, swing by on September 26th for their Night Of Burlesque.

Pre-sale tickets are available for zł. 100.

A new observation deck at Chopin Aiport has been unveiled, with visitors afforded a view of the entire apron and landing area. Over 150 meters long, the deck include disabled access plus five special viewing platforms for kids.

Sofitel Warsaw Victoria ul. Królewska 11

Bar & Books ul. Wąski Dunaj 20

Chopin Airport ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1

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Class Act

Any rundown of Warsaw’s ‘dining essentials’ requires a tip of the hat towards Dom Polski; yet while their Saska location is known to all, it’s their new little sister in Mokotów that’s making the news. And what a beauty she is: see in Autumn amid curling pathways and bursting shrubs, or dine inside an interior that conjures images of an aristocrat’s manor. The air of privilege matches a menu that’s rich in fanciful classics such as their signature goose. Elegant and exquisite, consider it your default choice for a taste of true Poland.

Dom Polski ul. Belwederska 18A, restauracjadompolski.pl

www.warsawinsider.pl

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PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

Pa N rtn ew er s

Left to right: Polish Colada; Alaskan Stop Hard Shake; Whisky Sour

The Big Drink

Varso Vie gives new impetus to Pl. Konstytucji with a knock-out cocktail menu that all can handle…

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here’s one big problem with Varso Vie, and it becomes instantly apparent: to sit outside, and bask in those first shades of autumn, or dive indoors, into a stark space shaped like an upside down T. Should you pick the latter then there’s two anterooms to choose from, both cool and white and decorated with art that’s equally sensual and suggestive. Fine for lunch, fine for dinner, but for drinks?

Nah. For drinks, as everyone knows, nowhere quite beats plotting up at the bar.

And that pits you directly against problem No. 2.

What to choose? In this case, compromise is at hand – can’t work out what to order? try the lot. That’s not the kamikaze idea it might originally sound. The listed cocktails are thin in number (five house recipes, and three hard shakes), making drinking the whole menu not at all far-fetched. But why would you want to slug your way through the menu in the first place? The answer is not as some sort of headlong plunge into masculine one-upmanship, but because it’s a thing of real merit. These are cocktails that are ready to go into the ring with the best in Warsaw… and possibly win.

This shouldn’t come as a surprise. Homemade syrups, seasonal ingredients and high caliber alcohol are all present, but so to the most important component: the staff who can handle them. On this day that means Agata and Johnny, two former baristas who’ve

expanded their oeuvre by learning the dark art of bartending. If slinging cocktails was not their intended career path then you certainly can’t tell.

A Polish Colada arrives first, this bar’s local take on the legendary Pina Colada. Involving Bols Natural Yogurt, Pawlina vodka, pineapple, lemon and a sprinkling of chocolate, it’s a superb drink that does a grand job of rehabilitating a largely derided classic.

Next, a whisky sour. It’s not on the menu, but this reliable old timer is a good way to measure the skills of the staff – yes it’s a simple drink, but how many Warsaw bars get it wrong. Varso Vie sail through the challenge. In fact, they turn something of a pedestrian drink into a revelation. It’s not all serious, either. Fun is supplied by the hard shakes: tall, towering glasses of cream and froth. “I call them a dessert for grownups,” says Johnny. I say, pour me another.

Varso Vie works as a restaurant – that much I already knew. What I couldn’t have guessed was the level to which they’ve also nailed the drinks. This is unexpected. As a rule, restaurants in Poland are no good at cocktails – hell, as a rule, most bars in Poland are no good at cocktails. So for Varso Vie to claim a double is news to be shouted. And very loudly.

Varso Vie Pl. Konstytcuji 2, tel. 22 622 2472, varso-vie.pl www.warsawinsider.pl

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Pa N rtn ew er s TONY’S TIPPLES Lebanon’s size,” says Tony Nasr of Le Cedre, “does limit the wine supply – as a country we just can’t produce enough to meet the needs of both the domestic and foreign market.” Even so, that hasn’t stopped Tony amassing a portfolio of 19 wines: “you’ll actually find a wider offer of Lebanese wine here at Le Cedre,” promises Tony, “than you ever would in any restaurant in Lebanon.”

But that’s just part of the story. “I doubt,” he adds, “you’ll find anywhere in the world with a bigger selection than us.”

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Chateau Musar 1999

The King of Lebanese wine!

Deep and sumptuous, this red is a masterpiece that’s appreciated by all connoisseurs. But it’s vital you let it breathe for 30 minutes or so.

Ideally, I’d pair it with grilled meat – it’s especially good with lamb.

The Grapes of Lebanon

Lebanese wine is once more back in the global spotlight: and it’s Warsaw’s Le Cedre that’s at the front of the revolution!

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eemed to be one of the oldest wine production sites in the world, Lebanon’s wine culture is believed – by some modern scholars – to have taken hold as far back as 7,000 BC. Even so, it remained something of an inside secret until Phoenician traders started shipping it to Greece, Egypt and Rome around 3,000 BC. Apocryphal it might be but Hosea, the Israelite prophet, is said to have once commanded his followers to return to Yahweh so that they would “blossom as the vine, and that their fragrance would be like the wine of Lebanon.”

Which prompts the question, why then, with all this history, does Lebanese wine retain such a modest profile? The answer lies in the region’s complex history. Under the Ottoman Caliphate winemaking was banned, except to meet religious ends, while a French-inspired 20th century revival was disrupted by the civil war. By 1998 Lebanon could list only five domestic wineries.

But recent times have seen a surge in both interest and production: over 40 wineries are now in operation, producing an estimated eight million bottles per year – notably, but not exclusively, in the Beqaa Valley. Even so, with production limited quality Lebanese wine remains a rarity in restaurants.

Le Cedre Al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166 Al. Solidarności 84, tel. 22 618 8999, lecedre.pl

Myst de Chateau Kefraya 2013

Compared to others rosés, this one is a very light pinkish. There’s mild notes of cassis, strawberry and a hint of blackcurrant. Ideal for warmer weather, this is a light, smooth wine that goes well with our set warm or cold appetizer menus.

Domaine des Tourelles 2013

This white has an aromatic bouquet of pineapple, jasmine and honey amongst others. Wellbalanced and with a beautiful finish, it’s perfect for Lebanese mezze: in particular, I’d recommend ordering it with our national dish – taboulleh salad.

www.warsawinsider.pl

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restaurants KEY

NEW & NOTEWORTHY

$ zł. 30 (per main) $$ zł. 30-55 $$$ over zł. 55 New listings are in RED Best of Warsaw Award Winner

GRINGO BAR (ul. Odolańska 15, gringobar.pl) It’s been a summer and a half for Gringo – not content with rolling out a truly badass food truck, they’ve used the August holidays to knock through a wall and add a proper sit-down area to their previously tiny venue down in Mokotów. And it’s not just their footprint that’s grown, but their menu as well. Looks like Warsaw’s best Mexican just got even better…

african american asian balkan & russian british burgers cheap eats cuban french georgian greek & turkish indian international italian japanese & sushi jewish latin & mexican middle eastern polish scandinavian specialty shops steak houses thai

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Insider writers do not accept any form of payment in return for favorable reviews.

CHOILA (ul. Zajączka 25, choila.pl) Perhaps not the most convenient location, but that hasn’t stopped this Żoliborz eatery earning rave reviews from the off. Chef Samika Thapa presents the dishes of Nepal and the Himalayas, with her Mo Mo stuffed dumplings earning particular recognition. Look out as well for the Choila – grilled pieces of pork with onion and coriander in a spicy sauce that’s heavy with pepper and garlic.

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african Abyssinia Rynek Nowego Miasto 2, open 12:00-22:00, www.abyssinia.pl As it transpires, there’s one way of serving the mains, and it’s truly ingenious: on injera, a spongy flatbread that’s used to scoop up the food. Basically, you eat the plate. Brilliant. And yes, the

listings / restaurants Ethiopian choices marvelous: meat and fish dishes served in curry-like sauces with heaps of onions, garlic and ginger. The tastes are strange, alien and immediately addictive. $$ Café Baobab (H4) ul. Francuska 31, tel. 22 617 4057, open 10:00-23:00, www.cafebaobab.pl The work of former basketball player Aziz Seck, Baobab brings the tastes of Senegal to Saska Kępa. The mafe yap – beef stewed in peanut sauce – is as interesting as it sounds, and best enjoyed during their bi-monthly Saturday night concerts. $

american Brooklyn Restaurant & Bar (C4) Al. Jana Pawła II 18 (Rondo ONZ), tel. 22 114 3434 Gone are the fancy pants culinary creations once found in the basement, ousted in favor of a menu of pimped-up soul and street food, salads and steaks. This means fresh tacos – one with hangar steak and the other with battered tilapia – not to mention Mito’s Beef Ribs and 100% beef dogs. The ground floor burger bar is more prosaic, offering a standard line-up of burgers and wings: many swear they’re the best to be found. $$ Champions Sports Bar (D5) Marriott Hotel, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 5119, open 12:00-24:00, www. champions.pl While the concept and style look dated, there’s no faulting the attention

to detail – wherever you look (aside from under the table), there’s a TV. The heavy décor brings to mind the trans-Atlantic sports bars of the 90s, with glinting trophies, whirring machines, clacking pool tables and a cacophony of commentaries. Hell, there’s even a boxing ring. But you can’t fault their consistency: the food is always on-point, the staff are pro, while the generous floor plan makes it suitable for unwieldy groups of large and loud lads. $$ Hard Rock Café (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, open daily 9:00-24:00, www.hardrockcafe. pl Instantly recognizable by the giant neon guitar outside, Hard Rock has a pierced staff of skater boys and rock girls and a menu that is, if nothing else, completely reliable. Peruse rock’n’roll swag that includes Joplin’s blouse, Prince’s guitar and Shakira’s pants. $$ Someplace Else (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6710, open Mon-Thu 12:00-01:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 12:00-24:00, www. someplace-else.pl Favoring a stark concrete look, SPE were once a legend of 90s/00s Warsaw. Things have tamed down since that ex-pat heyday, but this remains a noteworthy choice for live MOR rock and zippy Tex Mex food. $$ Sticky Fingers ul. Marszałkowska 4, tel. 880 763 617, , stickyfingersbbq.pl The menu, that’s printed

on some crinkly brown paper, and starts with breakfast pancakes before taking you past a tidy series of burgers and wings – amongst them an ‘Ultra Hot’ version smothered in Mad Dog sauce. We ordered the roast beef and found it fine. While it might not be the BBQ restaurant that Warsaw’s waiting for, it’s a decent enough addition to theneighborhood. $

asian Cesarski Pałac (D2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 9707, open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 12:30-23:00; Sun 12:30-22:00, www.cesarskipalac.com A rouge tinted Chinese restaurant whose design even incorporates a footbridge. Widely acclaimed, this 18-year-old restaurant combines Sichuan and Cantonese cuisine to serve a variety of dishes in an elegant backdrop. The Dim Sum are something else. $$ China Garden ul. Kazachska 1, tel. 22 241 1010, open daily 12:00-22:00, www.chinagarden.pl Bull’s testicles boiled with soy sprouts. Goose jaws.

Stewed bull’s penis with radish. Ah, these are meals for the brave. Allegedly the first Jiangsu restaurant in Warsaw, the tastes here are indeed unique. The China Garden isn’t the Imperial Palace, but the décor of straightbacked chairs and densely constructed wood tables casts an aura of formality. No lounging about here; serious eating is afoot! On the

ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 97 07 www.cesarski-palac.com.pl At Cesarski Pałac our aim is to showcase authentic Chinese cuisine by using excellent and experienced chefs from China. Established in 1994, our 60-seater restaurant also has an additional 14-seater private room for meetings and functions.

The elegant interiors and excellent cuisine are considered hallmarks of our top class restaurant.

Especially recommended is our Sechuan goulash, beef served from the hot plate and Peking Duck.

Our waiters are happy to ensure that the wine you choose matches the dish.

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listings / restaurants whole the dishes are delicate and delicious, and there are more cautious choices.

Du-Za Mi-Ha (D4) ul. Widok 16, tel. 22 447 2424, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-22:00 A compact Vietnamese joint noted for fresh, healthy nem filled with crunchy, perky fibers.

The pho, on the other hand, is disappointing – according to one reader, “awful”. Prices begin at around zł. 10 and don’t go far north of zł. 20. You get what you pay for. $ Papaya (E4) ul. Foksal 16, tel. 22 826 1199, open 12:00-24:00, www.papaya.waw.pl A place of precise lines and slick finishes, Papaya has a varied menu that uses influences from all over Asia, though particularly Thailand. But the star attraction is Preecha Wongsomboon, a Thai chef who fuses cookery with cabaret from behind a teppanyaki grill – his skills draw gasps. But between the honking horns and nifty knife work it becomes clear this is no novelty show: the food is top notch. $$

Patera (C4) ul. Świętokrzyska 36, tel. 535 333 123, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00; Sun 11:00-23:00, www.patera.com.pl The center pin is a semi-circular bar, above which lamps hang from a ceiling made out of old Coca-Cola crates. There’s palm fronds, mismatching seats, cheerful colors, exposed pipes and industrial chains. Sacks of Haruka rice adorn one end, and on the other there’s floor-to-ceiling windows. It feels right, as does the food – a confident combination of sushi and Thai. We ordered fried beef, and were dealt a generous portion full of pleasing, punchy tastes, sticky rice and a deep, aromatic sauce. Just as good is the green tea ice cream, both cleansing and delicious. $$ Toan Pho (D4) ul. Chmielna 5/7, tel. 888 147 307, open Mon-Fri 9:30-21:30, Sat-Sun 10:00-21:30 Toan Pho’s bowls of soup with rice noodles come highly recommended; as does the

chaos intrinsic to this type of casual Asian eatery. The short menu is in Vietnamese with Polish decoding – although you can ask for an English version. $

balkan & russian Ba Adriatico (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 50/52, open 11:00-23:00, ba-adriatico.pl As a starter, then the grilled peppers stuffed with creamy, regional cheese are irresistible. But then so too the octopus salad. Mains are a victory of simplicity, with dishes like skewered minced beef served with a bitey sauce and a soft, pillowy Lepinja bread. Yet ignore Thursday seafood night at your peril. Croatian-run, this neighborhood spot has an unassuming air that belies the general quality. $$ Banja Luka (E8) ul. Szkolna 2/4, tel. 22 828 1060, open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.banjaluka.pl Lots of clunky timber

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listings / restaurants and imported ceramics set the scene at this eatery, a Balkan stalwart that’s known for its economical pricing structure and bulky portions. Grilled meats are prominent and the food largely reliable. $$

Papalina Al. KEN 53, tel. 608 921 404, open Mon-Thu 13:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-22:00, papalina.pl A warm, wood-heavy space with regional cheeses and sausages alongside grilled meats, wine from the Krauthaker vineyard and a particularly good choice of seafood. This is Croatian food cooked exactly as you remember it from holiday. $$ U Madziara (B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 620 1423, open Mon 11:30-20:00; Tue & Wed 11:30-21:00; Thu & Fri 11:30-22:00; Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, www.umadziara.pl U Madziara looks like it took two days to decorate. No-one goes here to marvel at the interiors though, they go in the knowledge that they’ll find great food at prices all bank cards can support. Chef Gabor’s signature goulash is one of life’s simple pleasures. $

british Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640, www. legendsbar.pl It’s a British pub first and foremost, but don’t forego the kitchen either.

The all-day breakfast is a great way to stoke up your drinking powers, while other dishes of note inc. pies, sausages and mash and, of course, fish and chips. $$

burgers Barn Burger (D4) ul. Złota 9. tel. 512 157 567, open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat 13:00-22:00; 13:0021:00, www.barnburger.pl Retaining a loyal crowd ever since their 2012 entry on the burger circuit, Barn Burger offer a loud and lively atmosphere and much celebrated burgers with names such as Heart Attack and Muppet. The list by the door notes the results of their frequent eating competitions. $

Beef’N’Roll (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel. 531 707 070, beefnroll.pl If the wheels have fallen off the burger craze then no-one told Beef’N’Roll.

Originating as a food truck, their success has been such that a fixed venue was required.

Everything about the food and drink suggests quality is the main consideration. $

Original Indian Cuisine

Burger Bar (E10) ul. Puławska 974/80 (enter from Olkuska), tel. 780 094 076, open Tue-Thu 12:0021:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-22:00, burgerbar.waw. pl Warsaw’s first legitimate burger spot was the talk of the town when it first opened up in 2012, only to have its thunder stolen when 100 copycats opened in their trail. But this lot have kept plugging away, sticking to their guns with little song and dance. Intimate and unassuming, it’s for good reason they’ve retained a loyal core of fans – if the words masterpiece can be applied to a burger, then their green chili burger is just that. $ Fuddruckers ul. Górczewska 124 (Wola Park), tel. 22 533 4000, open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00, fuddruckers.com Not ones to keep quiet, the American Fuddruckers chain claim to build ‘the world’s best burger!’ A big claim, but on early evidence they can certainly claim the Warsaw leg of this title. In an added plus, a buffet stand lets you throw as many add-ons (jalapenos, salsa, etc.) onto your food as possible. $ Między Bułkami (D4) Al. Jerozolimskie 23, tel. 22 126 0159, open 11:00-23:00 You want to yell, “stop opening burger joints!” But ‘Between the Buns’ is one of those additions we really don’t mind: there’s nothing original about the menu, nor the presentation, but the quality is a solid 8/10. $ Warburger (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1. Open Mon-Sat 12:0020:00; Sun 12:00-19:00, www.warburger.pl While Warsaw has lost its appetite for burgers, you wouldn’t necessarily tell by popping in WarBurger. Set inside a diminutive cabin, join the scrum for jazzed-up burgers that use slow-food ingredients. If not the best, they’re most certainly up there. $

club

Ziggi Point (B4) ul. Pańska 59, tel. 696 145 735, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-20:00 Diners are summoned to the counter to www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / restaurants collect their order via a buzzer, before settling down to enjoy what has emerged as a real candidate for Warsaw’s best burger. The fiery Desperados is as perfect as a burger gets, and best twinned with a Curiosity Cola from the Fentimans brand. Steaks and wings also available inside a cool diner setup. $

cheap eats Bar Turecki “Efes” (H4) ul. Francuska 1, tel. 22 616 2580, open daily 11:00-21:00. ul. Aleje Niepodleglości 80, tel.

22 898 3001, open daily 11:00-22:00 So it’s a kebab shop, but when the kebabs are this good they’re well worth the listing. Either join the queue outside, or head indoors to sample the smattering of grill food and salads. $ Meat Love (D5) ul. Hoża 62, tel. 500 149 210, open MonThu 10:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-last guest; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.meatlove.pl Not ones to stagnate, Meat Love have expanded in size, meaning there’s now plenty of room to sample their artisan sandwiches – the

roast beef will make your knees tremble. But with this weather, most head to the shaded pavement terrace. Do so as well, and with a craft beer for company. $ Mr. Pancake (E3) ul. Solec 50, tel. 501 237 461, open MonSat 11:00-10:00; Sun 12:00-8:00, www.mrpancake.pl You’re just going to love their pancakes, with their fun, wacky look and creative toppings (M&Ms, funny faces traced with icing sugar, and lots of chocolatey stuff).

They’re the sort of pancakes you’d get if Bart Simpson got stoned and decided to make some food – brilliant. $ Okienko (D7) ul. Polna 22, open Mon-Thu 9:00-22:00; Fri 9:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 13:0020:00 Belgian-style frites served in paper cones right from out of a street-side hatch.

Yes they’re good, but they’re bettered by the sauces that are written up in marker pen on the wall tiles. With money exchanged, do your eating on the upturned crates left on the side of the curb. $

Because Warsaw Just Got Hotter Classic Indian Cuisine With A Funky Twist ul. Zurawia 22, tel. 501 400 386, www.rain.pl

New Polish cuisine is an excellent polish product and inspiration both polish culinary tradition and wide world cuisines.

Kuchnia Funkcjonalna unites together exellent taste and nutritional and functional values of dishes. tel: 521-893-898 adres: Kuchnia Funkcjonalna, ul. Jakubowska 16 www.kuchniafunkcjonalna.pl

Wurst Kiosk (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 17, tel. 606 133 134, open Mon-Fri 11:00-21:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-19:00 Imported German sausages served through a hole-in-a-wall with big dabs of mustard and fresh buns to go with them.

The currywurst is just like the one you had at Berlin Hauptbahnhof. $

cuban El Caribe ul. Mickiewicza 9, tel. 22 400 0994. Open Mon-Thu 12:30-24:00; Fri-Sat 12:30-1:00; Sun 12:30-22:30 Start with a round of daiquiris before ordering frijoles negroes (black beans). But everyone agrees, it’s the flan that gets you doing the cha cha. With the cooking left to a Cuban exile, this perky spot is worth the trip north to Żoliborz. $$

french ArtBistro Stalowa ul. Stalowa 52, tel. 22 618 2732, www. stalowa52.pl, open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:30-22:00 Part of an ‘art hotel’, the distant Stalowa features a narrow dining chamber with vaulted walls, fresh flowers and white formica fittings. It looks good, but

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listings / restaurants on a brighter day the courtyard, strewn with deckchairs and crates, is the place to be. The food is erratic – our vol au vent starter was dry and devoid of taste, while the chocolate ‘cream’ dessert was a runny, ugly looking disappointment. But there is potential: the main was a thing of excellence – duck with a carefully crisped skin, a perfect hint of fat, expertly browned potatoes and a wellexecuted orange and caramel sauce. $$ L’Arc (E8) ul. Puławska 16, tel. 519 000 050, www.larc. pl A place of considered elegance, subtle decorations and monochrome colors. They’re especially noted for their obsessive attitude towards seafood (pick from five types of oysters, or delve into the fish tank for the lobster of your choosing), inventive mains and desserts that are heaven. $$ Le Bistro Rozbrat (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44, tel. 22 881 7808, open 12:00-24:00. The signs suggest that Powiśle is set to mature even further this year, making the transition from hipster haunt to restaurant breeding ground – and here is Exhibit A. Owned by Frenchman Alain Budzyk, the interiors are contemporary casual, with talking points saved for the food. The concise menu has token nods to Spanish cuisine, as well as a steak bavette that’s being raved about on the blogs. $$ Le Victoria Brasserie Moderne (D3) ul. Królewska 11 (Sofitel Warsaw Victoria),

tel. 22 657 8332, open Mon-Sat12:00-24:00, www.sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com The interior of Didier Gomez whispers intimacy, yet it also embraces notions of space and light. The casual elegance that emanates from the design is accented by warm colors, low banquettes and glinting mirrors. Acting as a ballast to it all is an open kitchen, in which you’ll find Executive Chef Maciej Majewski honing his art. His is a menu that fits seamlessly with the surrounds: a fresh, modern look at French cuisine, but one that values clarity and simplicity.

Always leave room for dessert, especially the ‘pear trio’ – delicate and refreshing and with the right hint of sweet. $$

Petit Appetit (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 27, tel. 22 826 44 61, open 8:00-23:00, petitappetit.com.pl A bit of French you say? Step in. There’s an atmosphere here that melts regulars and tourists into one. An easy coexistence that reveals a lot about the very soul of the place: café, hangout, bistro. Small choice but good results. $$

georgian Restauracja Gruzja (D4) ul. Chmielna 5, tel. 729 460 761, open Mon-Sun 12:00-23:00, smakigruzji.pl So good that our Georgian connection claims

it to be every bit as good as back home.

The khachapuri wins big points, but so too the badrijani – eggplant slices rolled and filled with a mix of walnuts and Georgian spices. And then there’s the chinkali, every Georgian’s favorite dough purse of broth and meaty goodness. $

Rusiko (E5) Al. Ujazdowskie 22, tel. 22 629 0628, open Tue-Sun 11:00-23:00 The great location helps, with its nice evening light and people watching opportunities, but it’s the interiors that make it: rugs hanging on the wall, classic tables and contemporary lights. You feel right at home, which I guess is what the owners had in mind from the start. Find them hopping between tables, eating, chatting and going the extra yard. Full of warmth and love for food, this is the Georgia you want to know. $$

greek & turkish Santorini ul. Egipska 7, tel. 22 672 0525, open daily 12:00-23:00, www.kregliccy.pl/santorini/ Santorini looks scuffed and tired but there’s a bonhomie present that instantly engages.

The kitchen attaches no value to things like presentation, preferring instead to simply treat diners to piles of grilled and skewered food that consistently tastes right – and the milfei dessert is magic. $$

• The best quality USDA Black Angus prime beef, Wagyu 9+ Kobe steaks and Scottish prime beef.

• Outstanding seafood menu with oysters, mussels, octopus and calamari and seasonal, traditional Polish dishes.

• The largest selections of global wine in Poland. ul. Merliniego 5 (across from the Warszawianka water park) tel. 22 646 0810/22 646 0849

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listings / restaurants Sofra (C6) ul. Wilcza 71, tel. 731 847 731, open MonThu 10:00-23:00; Fri & Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-22:00 On the design front it’s almost a straight plagiary of Charlotte: white brickwork, blackboard and communal table.

So the surprise here is the food – Turkish.

And not just any Turkish, but brilliant Turkish!

It’s nothing fancy, but there’s a real honest quality to the moussaka and lamb and beef in tomato sauce. The desserts are a real spoiler as well. $

indian Bollywood Lounge (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, tel. 22 827 0283, open Sun-Thu 12:00-3:00; Fri 12:00-6:00; Sat 14:00-6:00, bollywoodlounge.pl Known for their raucous dusk-till-dawn parties, there is another less hedonistic roll filled by Bollywood: that of a restaurant. The menu is an uncomplicated, classic affair that’s an ideal primer for the party ahead. $$ Bombaj Masala (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 606 688 777 One of the best looking Indian restaurants in Warsaw, but the food rarely pokes above average. For a cuisine that prides itself on rich, intense tastes, Bombaj gets remembered for bland, oily dishes that only sometimes get finished. Yet business remains brisk, thanks in part to a combination of location and general culinary ignorance. $$

Buddha (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 23, tel. 22 826 3501, open Sun-Thu 11:0023:00; Fri&Sat 11:00-24:00, www.buddha.info.pl The days of the Raj are recreated in Buddha, a finelooking curry house with intricate interiors and top-drawer curries. The murgh masala jhodphur is a favorite of ours though the real plus here is the consistency: it’s always a solid bet. $ Curry House ul. Żeromskiego 81, tel. 508 870 774 & al.

Ken 47, tel. 22 213 0689, open daily 11:0022:00, curryhouse.com.pl A primitive design (port-a-loo toilet, barred windows) and far-flung location have not hindered Curry House one bit. It’s a legend, not least for their vindaloo – a macho dish that provokes spontaneous combustion. Be warned: no beer. $ Madras (B3) Al. Solidarnosci 129/131, tel. 536 335 333, open 11:00-22:00 Even before you enter, you smell Madras: a pungent aroma that wafts gloriously over gloomy Solidarnośći. Looking humble, unassuming, and even a little seedy, this microscopic venue is as far removed from refined as it gets. For all that, those who love Indian food refuse to go anywhere else for their curry – full of intense flavors and bold spicing, the vindaloo is a near death experience: even your hair feels like it’s on

ul. Nowy Świat 36 tel. 731 001 002 beefnroll.pl facebook.com/beefnroll.burgers

BEST BURGERS /WINGS /HOT-DOGS

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fire. As the burning euphoria subsides, you’re left basking in that blissful glow all hotheads will know. Note: no alcohol license. $ Mr India Al. KEN 47, tel. 22 213 0689, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www. mrindia.pl Split on two levels the design is contemporary if a little characterless: leather banquettes that leave a sweaty bum print and wood paneling. No problem though, if it looks bland then the food isn’t. That means an incredible butter chicken that’s deep and immensely satisfying. Then there’s the vindaloo – could be hotter for some, but good enough for most. $$ Rain by India Curry (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 438 9350, open Mon-Sun 12:00-23:00, www.rain.pl Fresh, contemporary interiors impart a chic, classy look, while the shaded courtyard garden is one of the best about town. The real credit for Rain’s resuscitation though belongs to the kitchen: our curry expert rates the starters as the best he’s had in any Indian restaurant.

And the mains continue the form with a magnificent lamb tikka masala. The tiffin lunch deals are outstanding as well. $$ Tandoor (D7) ul. Marszałkowska 21/25, tel. 22 825 2375, open 12:00-22:30, www.tandoor.com. pl After nearly 20 years at the helm, owner Charanjit Walia has sold up and moved on, leaving a spiritual hole in his life-defining work. His parting shot has been a re-haul which has seen not just the interior modernized, but the menu – start with the pea and basil soup before moving onto the chicken tamarind or the chicken sholay kebab.

Coated in absinth, it’s set aflame at the table.

Traditionalists will also approve: the ‘classic’ menu features a formidable butter chicken tikka masala. After a couple of years in the doldrums, Tandoor is back with a bang. $$

international Aioli Inspired by Mini (D6) pl. Konstytucji 5, open 9:00-24:00, aioliinspiredbymini.pl Fans of the original we might be, but this latest venture brings to mind one of those anonymously formulaic Times Square eateries where tourists convene for the ‘fake’ New York experience. There are moments when the scrum at the bar threatens to spill into blood sport, while the

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listings / restaurants despondent staff only make matters worse.

You’d think the Pilsner beer tanks would serve as a point of redemption, but here foul glasses make what should be Warsaw’s freshest beer into the capital’s worst. $$ Ale Wino ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 628 3830, open Mon 17:00-24:00; Tue-Sat 12:00-24:00, alewino.pl Dip through an archway to discover Ale Wino, a beautiful wine bar whose menu has been well tailored to the season.

Tweaked for summer is the pork belly, a Złotnicka pig adorned with apple sugar snap peas and celery mousse – gorgeous. As for the wine, put your faith in the sommelier, Oliver.

A Nóż (D9) ul. Różana 30, tel. 608 386 388, open daily 9:00-23:00, www.anoz.pl ‘A Jack of all trades, master of none,’ you might think. You’d be wrong. Burgers, pastas, Asian-inspired salads, and pizzas are represented, and while some dishes require fine-tuning, the

ul. Złota 11 tel. 668 016 964 cafeloft.pl

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overall impression is positive. Paired with a cool, typically Warsaw interior (white, white, white), the owners have a real success story on their hands. $ A nuż widelec (E3) ul. Dobra 14/16, tel. 507 367 520, open 12:00-22:00 So snug is A nuż widelec, the feeling is of being round at a friend’s house.

The food is nothing fancy, but fresh and made with love – and it feels even better while the owner potters about, chatting with his guests and watering the flowers in the knockout garden. Such is the atmosphere, you want to call it home. $$ Artkitchen ul. Domaniewska 34A, open Mon-Fri 8:30-22:00, artkitchen.pl Buried deep in the office blocks of white collar Mokotów Artkitchen hope to attract more than just the lunch break crowd with a busy jazz program overseen by musician Grzegorz Piotrowski.

The modern international menu is composed

by Michał Bassa, a man who appears to like

foie gras: find it in burgers, ice cream and other combinations. $$ Baltazar by Mondovino (D5) ul. Krucza 24/26, tel. 516 817 855, open 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, baltazar. warszawa.pl Filled with big red colors and battleship greys, there’s a nice feeling of improvisation to Baltazar, and an undercurrent of individuality emphasized by a 1950s wall painting that’s the venue’s statement piece and ballast. The cooking is the work of twins Kuba and Michał (“one person in two bodies” laughs the owner), and is a brilliant work of deconstructed simplicity: delicate rabbit and thyme ravioli, big caveman-style steaks, and pork belly served with a blob of foam and an arc of liquefied apple. And all hail the desserts, in particular, the silky crème caramel. $$ Bibenda (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 10, tel. 502 770 303, open Tue-Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, bibenda.pl If it’s informal dining you want,

Loft’s unique atmosphere is helped by its position on ul. Złota, a historic street now presented in modern form – it’s here you’ll find our oasis from the usual restaurants.

Our restaurant’s philosophy is founded on the words of Salvador Dali: ‘You might not eat everything, but you should never eat badly’.

Our menu presents creative global flavors and yet is underlined by its strong Polish accents. The chef, meanwhile, introduces principles of physics to the kitchen, which is why you’ll find strawberry snow, dusts, kale chips with caviar, smoked strawberries and fruit foam all on our menu.

Additionally, our daily lunch deals (Mon-Fri noon till 4 p.m.) are available for just 19.90zł. Join us in our two floor restaurant, or on our seasonal terrace.

Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2015

listings / restaurants then Bibenda nails it: here the warm design incorporates a popular bar area filled with a young, chattery crowd. The seasonal menu makes use of market vegetables and farmyard produce, and is built on pillars of quality and simplicity. $$ Bierhalle al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), Nowy Świat 64, Marszałkowska 55/73, bierhalle.pl Beer and food: a match made in heaven.

Accompany your frothing stein of lager with traditional beery bites like sausages, schnitzel and pork knuckle. The menu is German / Polish slanted, but with a few international accents. $$

Boathouse ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 389a, tel. 22 616 3223, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00- 18:00, www.boathouse.pl The name gives it away, doesn’t it? Situated in what is indeed a former boathouse, this venerable institution comes into its element each summer when Warsaw goes riverside to dine at this restaurant. Even out of season, the Mediterranean standards have stood the test of time and keep this venue busy. $$ Brasserie Warszawska (E5) ul. Górnośląska 24, tel. 22 628 9423, open Mon 12:00-22:00; Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-20:00, www.brasseriewarszawska.pl Looking for classic cuisine with no daft flights of fancy? Here you have it. At a time when everyone wants to be Ferran Adrià, Brasserie has both a menu and interior that you can understand: pan-fried foie gras; elegant beef Rossini; and sinful apple tarte tatin, all served inside posh interiors of zinc-plated mirrors and chessboard floors. Their Michelin Bib Gourmand is a source of pride, but it’s the number of repeat clients that are the ultimate paean to the skills of chef Mateusz Wichrowski. $$$ Bubbles (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 512 540 913, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-18:00, bubbles.com.pl Occupying a small, square room, it’s intimate and relaxed: a place busy with blackboards and bottles, crates and clutter. It radiates warmth and honesty. The food is exquisite, and includes big, meaty snails farmed in Mazury, and their signature dish: Swiss-style raclette.

Presented on a wooden chopping board, this cheese dish is classic melty goodness, and served alongside a pile of potatoes, onions marinated with caramel and candied pumpkin. Considering the place doubles as a champagne bar the prices are remarkably moderate. $$ Concept 13 (D4) ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7373, open Mon-Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 11:00-16:00 You’d expect a rooftop meal at Poland’s ultimate luxury department store to cost the earth, but that’s not the case. The zł. 50 lunch deal allows Joe Public to enjoy the considerable skills of Dariusz Barański. That he manages to create different pieces of art each and every afternoon is a testament to his talent – fellow chefs and foodies privately talk of him as a Michelin star in the making. $$$

Where friends meet friends for good times and more.

Der Elefant (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, tel. 22 890 0010, open 12:00-24:00, www.derelefant.com This leviathan restaurant unravels in a maze of wrought iron and monochrome tiles. The menu looks like it was devised by throwing darts at a cookbook (Mediterranean mezze, Tom Yum soup, burgers, pierogi, etc.), but if the focus is blurry then the quality isn’t. While some of the dishes are strictly middling, the Alaskan crab claws are excellent while the filet mignon (zł. 59) one of the best meat deals in town – and it’s even better when ordered with their own-made BBQ sauce. $$ Dom ul. Mierosławskiego 12, tel. 509 165 712, open Tue-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:0022:00 The simple name implies exactly what it is: a restaurant in a house. Set in a pre-war home complete with a lawn and garden, this little secret isn’t all that secret. When the Insider visited it was packed, prompting staff to make some adjustments and put together a table. We’re glad they did. Their menu changes frequently, and on our visit included homemade focaccia, beef risotto and gravlax with lime foam on top of a mini-pancake. You won’t want to leave. $$

Dwie Trzecie (D5) ul. Wilcza 50/52, tel. 605 589 588, open 12:00-24:00 Undeterred by the departure of chef Marcin Jabłonkski, the new guy in the

ul. Wilcza 58A znajomiznajomych.waw.pl

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listings / restaurants kitchen, Grzegorz Nowakowski, has stamped his own mark with a seasonal menu that’s high on creativity: on our visit that meant guinea fowl accompanied with splotches of emulsion and smears of coffee puree.

Pleasingly, you get the idea that it’ll work in all seasons: raw enough for summer, yet intimate for winter. $$

Ratkowski, there’s plenty of fireworks over the course of a vibrant menu that sources its produce from regional eco farms: meat from within a 26 kilometer radius of Warsaw, dairy produce from Mazury and fish from Pomerania. The rump of lamb is a class act, and bettered only by the pear and thyme tart for dessert. $$

Grand Kredens Al. Jerozolimskie 111, tel. 22 629 8008, open Mon-Fri 10:00-1:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-1:00, kredens.com.pl This mighty veteran continues to draw a steady custom on account of a wide-reaching menu that aims to keep everyone happy – and it usually does. The design is surreal to say the least, and is laid out in such a way as to always guarantee a lively atmosphere. $$

Kaskrut (D6) ul. Poznańska 5, tel. 22 622 5438, Open Tue-Fri 17:00-last guest, Sat-Sun 13:00-last guest , www.facebook.com/dwichlab This haunt has a high communal seating plan and hip, buzzy foodie crowd: fit in by taking pics of the food. The exciting menu is a temporary work that changes every two weeks. The place is known for its trial-anderror attitude: combinations that don’t work get binned before making a public debut.

Those that make it through the qualifiers end up on the board. Servings are artistic, excellent and heavily influenced by French and North African cuisine, and new chef Piotr Ceranowicz already looks like he’s adapted well to Kaskrut’s high standards. $$

Krucza 8 i Pól (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 10 (enter from Krucza), tel.

784 461 397, open 11:00-23:00 Looking sparse and fashionable one expects Eight and a Half to be on-trend food-wise. No such luck. Fundamentally the food is fine, with quality ingredients cooked with technical competence. Yet while there are hints of skill in the kitchen, there’s little evidence of creativity, passion or invention: imagine the sort of modern European food you’d find in a generic five star hotel. $$

Kitchen (D4) ul. Widok 8, tel. 22 464 8284, open Mon-Thu 10:00-23:00; -Fri 10:00-1:00; Sat 12:001:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.burgerkitchen. pl It’s the wings that do it. Double fried they

La Maison (B3) ul. Chłodna 15, tel. 22 652 3660, open 8:00-23:00, lamaison.pl Everything here feels considered, from a wine list handpicked by importer Frank Telling, right down to the desserts, prepared by award-winning French pastry chef Michel Willaume – and my, what desserts. Backing the little details up is a menu of note: fish are a particular

Grill & Co (B9) ul. Żaryna 2B (Milllennium Park, Building C), tel. 22 646 0045, open Mon-Fri 7:30-23:00; Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www. grill-co.com Featuring plexiglass seats and clean, dark woods this place could easily be mistaken as one of the trend dens on Mazowiecka. A top (m)eatery, the filet mignon is perfect, and served with generous sides.

Prices, too, are pleasingly moderate. $$ InFormal Kitchen Pl. Małachowskiego 2 (enter from Traugutta), tel. 531 918 534, open 8:30-23:00; Fri 8:3024:00; Sat 9:00-24:00; Sun 9:00-23:00, informalkitchen.pl Headed by chef Dariusz

are and smothered in a plum BBQ sauce.

Eating them is sticky business, but the taste is sensational: just about the most joyous thing you can eat without the use of a fork.

After a six month flirtation with upscale dining, Kitchen have done a U-turn and returned to their roots – the results aren’t so much a kitchen revolution, rather a kitchen revelation. The ‘comfort food’ menu is a hit parade of meatballs, burgers, and other such creations made using the best natural, BEST WAWA 2014 local ingredients.

“Reinvention”

Our atmospheric restaurant specializes in seafood, presented and prepared using our unique methods. The tastes ensure that it’s regulars and returnees that make up the core of our custom: join them!

15% discount with this issue, and a free glass wine with your main course!

Papalina Al. KEN 53, tel. 608 921 404, www.papalina.pl

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listings / restaurants forte. All this in a casual background that features some whimsical Alice in Wonderland touches: patchwork armchairs, pinkish booths and hanging teapot-shaped lights. $$ La Rotisserie (C1) ul. Kościelna 12 (Le Régina Hotel), tel. 22 531 6070, open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, 12:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 7:00-11:00,12:0023:00, www.leregina.com Truly, one of the standout dining rooms of Poland. Many have commented on the Michelin quality of chef Paweł Oszczyk’s restaurant, and you may consider the lack of a star one of the puzzles of the modern world. The cooking is ‘classic with a twist’, and is built for superlatives: the slow-roasted rack of Welsh lamb was one of our highlights of 2013.

Find Oszczyk ably supported by Andrzej Strzelczyk, Poland’s top ranked sommelier, and wonderfully charismatic staff. $$$ L’enfant Terrible (D8) ul. Sandomierska 13 (enter from Rejtana), tel. 22 119 5705, open Mon 18:00-22:00; Tue-Fri 12:30-15:30, 18:00-22:00; Sat 15:00-22:00, www.eterrible.pl What a first year for L’enfant Terrible: opened at the end of summer, they’d already done enough by October to win Gazeta Wyborcza’s coveted Knajpy Roku award. And no-one deserves it more than Chef Michał Bryś, an innovative chef who leaves diners beaming. Pitting local produce against modern techniques the tasting menu (five courses: zł. 170) is sensational: the duck hearts will live long

in this Insider’s memory. With all the hype you expect it to be a little up its arse, but it’s anything but: the design is smart but non-threatening, and the front of house staff are due plenty of credit. $$$ BEST WAWA 2014 “Newcomer”

Loft (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel.

668 016 964, open Mon-Fri 10:00-23:00; Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 11:00-22:00, cafeloft. pl Entering Loft isn’t far removed from stepping inside a pop art painting: lots of vibrant colors and weird lights inside strings of bubbles. A bi-level venture, the best spot to enjoy the menu is on the upstairs terrace, a sunny place befitting of options with names like Ding Dong Soup and Embarrassed Chicken. $$ Lokal 14 (D3) ul. Świętokrzyska 14, tel. 22 827 5480, open Mon-Sat 8:30-24:00; Sun 10:00-22:00 Having served his apprenticeship at Tamka 43, you’re right to expect good things from upcoming chef Filip Kosiń. He doesn’t disappoint with his artful menu of modern European “author’s cuisine”. Topping his skills off is a pleasing environment that’s big on light, wood and metalwork. Getting used to being more than a construction site, the opening of Lokal 14 is positive news for this stretch of Świętokrzyska. $$

Między Ustami (E5) ul. Mokotowska 33/35, tel. 530 323 325, open Sun-Mon 10:00-23:00; Tue-Thu 8:00-24:00; Fri 8:00-3:00; Sat 10:00-3:00 The design joins elements of classic Prague bordello against a London Soho bar, while the international menu features a decent steak nicely enhanced by a silky drizzle of demi-glace. You get the idea both the cooking and artisan cocktails need a little fine-tuning, but fundamentally this newbie is looking in the right direction – certainly one to keep a watch for. $$ Momu.Gastrobar (D2) ul. Wierzbowa 11, tel. 506 100 001, open Sun-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00, www.momu.pl Tapas-style portions of experimental-looking food arrives in little glass jars (meat and fish skewers, Eton mess), or else on paper plates a la the jalapeno hot dog. Pay zł. 40 for a choice of six itsy pots served in a wire-framed basket.

A new concept for Warsaw, it’s been a case of so far so good for Momu. $

Nolita (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel.

22 292 0424, Nolita open Mon-Fri 12.00-15.00 (lunch), 18.00-22.30 (dinner); Sat 13.00-23.00, www.nolita.pl The deluxe dining scene is filling out in Warsaw, and there’s now a few restaurants that can present an equitable claim for the No. 1

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listings / restaurants spot. However, it’s Nolita that perch at the top, with a menu that sees largely classical recipes through a sharp, modern prism – chef Jacek Grochowina has created a place that’s coherent and understandable without sacrificing values of innovation. Looking chic and high end, the tastes and sensations in this restaurant are thrilling: diners are left speechless by the tuna tartar, while the aged beef fillet is an Insider mainstay. $$$ BEST BEST WAWA 2014 WAWA 2014 “Chef” “Fine Dining”

9:00-24:00, nowaprozna.pl Amazing to think that a few years ago this street looked like it was about to fall down. With Próżna’s restoration nearly complete, along comes the task of filling its ground floor units – consider this venture a successful pacesetter. Founded by the owners of the recently closed R20, the European menu here is a work of flair and modernity. Like the food, the slick white interiors feel just right. $$

Nowa Kuźnia ul. Kostki Potockiego 24, tel. 794 126 019, open 12:00-last guest, www.nowakuznia.pl A mere step from Wilanów’s 18th century church, this onetime blacksmith passes muster for excellent steaks and fresh salads practically plucked from a garden. In season, the summer terrace is magical, and the place even touts a faux beach complete with diggers and slides for the kids. $$

Oliva (D4) ul. Ordynacka 10/12, tel. 501 497 410, open 12:00-23:00, www. restauracjaoliva.pl The spirit of the Mediterranean hangs over Oliva, a place where a milk color palette is matched against potted herbs and soft wooden touches. The menu has riffs of Italy, Spain and Greece, with particular pride attached to their gourmet olive oils. At times the cooking of Łukasz Żuchowski has been described as ‘inspirational’ and his talents

Nowa Próżna ul. Próżna 10, open 7:30-24:00; Sat-Sun

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come paired with a wine list selected by Marek Kondrat – an actor / wine merchant with an immense reputation. $$ Platter by Karol Okrasa (C4) InterContinental Hotel, ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8734 or 22 328 8730, open Mon-Fri 12:00-16:00, Sat-Sun 17:30-23:00, www.platter.pl The hotel has roped in celebrity chef Karol Okrasa to head their revamped dining room. As a temple of nouveau Polish, the new layout isn’t a dramatic change from the previous occupant, but the food is faultless. In particular, the herb garden salad with prawns comes immaculately groomed.

An already excellent experience has been raised to talking point level. $$$ Po Prostu Zachęta (D3) pl. Małachowskiego 3, tel. 22 556 96 77, open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-20:00, www.poprostuzacheta. pl Sophisticated yet cozy, Darek Ryniec’s restaurant is set on the lower level of the Zachęta, and despite the grand vaulted ceiling offers substantial privacy with tables

listings / restaurants nestled beside major columns. The set lunch menu emphasizes Polish, while offering a main menu that’s definitely trendy European: the dishes will be licked clean. $$ Północ Poludnie ul. Bagatela 10, open 12:00-last guest Besides the food being colorful and inventive there is a restaurant concept that works here.

It has a visible kitchen, which at times is a little noisy, a beautifully designed interior, not to mention an attentive wait staff that are familiar with what they serve. The sliders are worth exploration: they don’t just consist of beef, but also salmon, egg and chicken. $$ Porkownia ul. Piękna 20, tel. 22 627 4151, open Mon-Fri 11:00-23:00; Sat 12:00-23:00, porkownia.pl Here’s a Warsaw first: a restaurant focused on celebrating the humble pig. Suspicions that Porkownia may lack something in the sophistication department don’t bear fruit – sprouting from the ashes of Jazz Bistro Piękna, the surrounds are chic and modern, not the blood-spattered butcher’s

backroom you might otherwise expect. The food is similarly well-presented and scores highly for such dishes as apple/bacon and boar/artichoke/marmite. Showing plenty of creativity, here’s a kitchen that reinvents the pig! $$

about when that view comes from a candle-lit reconstructed castle… Endlessly romantic, this artistic eatery comes with a light look and a creative menu honed by Marta Gessler. $$

Punta Prima ul. Obrzeżna 1B, tel. 22 406 0886, open 11:00-22:00, puntaprima.com.pl There’s something immediately fetching about Punta Prima, a place that announces itself grandly with its deep wood panels and embroidered armchairs. For food, choose from a varied menu that draws on largely Mediterranean influences. Try the bream with herbs baked in sea salt. $$

Renoma (E3) ul. Lipowa 7A, tel. 22 692 7239, open Mon-Fri 8:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-22:00, bistrorenoma.pl Here’s a venue that suits all purposes at all times of day. Most of all, it’s a place that feels positive, a place where heart and mind work seamlessly together: that means breakfast to evening options – many of them gluten-free – including fab lunch deals and 60-day aged steaks. Great for afternoon ‘me time’ or a dinner date with a beautiful stranger, Renoma’s intimate style and soothingly simple interiors work with the personalized approach. $$

Qchnia Artystyczna (E6) Zamek Ujazdowski, Al. Jazdów 2, tel. 22 625 7627, open daily 12:00-22:00, www. qchnia.pl Even on a cold, ashen day, can you question a view that spills down onto a canal and park way down below? And how

Restauracja 99 (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 22 620 1999, open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.restaurant99.com Sporting a futuristic look, 99 is an enduring veteran of the CBD circuit. No longer the top dog

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listings / restaurants for business wining / dining, it nonetheless remains a very safe choice for perfect steaks and loaded margaritas. $$

Salto (D5) ul. Wilcza 73 (enter from Emilii Plater), tel.

22 584 8771, www.saltorestauracja.pl For those who think Argentine chef Martin Gimenez-Castro is just about steak, then they haven’t been to Salto. The tasting menu is the best way to view his full oeuvre, and on our visit included ceviche with Portuguese corvina; a dainty tranche of cavala mackerel; and Porcini ice cream served in the shape of a mushroom. It’s a brilliant demonstration of the chef’s passion and personality, but most of all, it’s just bloody brilliant. $$$ Secado (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 66, tel. 608 707 799, open Mon-Fri 10:00-23:00; Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-23:00 Casual, intimate interiors complement a menu that’s expanded from its original Latin leanings. Everything we’ve tried here has been culinary gold, and that includes the surf & turf, tortillas and roast beef. $$ Senses (C2) ul. Bielańska 12, tel. 22 331 9697, open Mon-Fri 17:30-22:00; Sat 17:30-22:00, www.sensesrestaurant.pl The entrance alone is a thing of fancy and accessed through a

long open-air corridor, one side flanked by the office block, the other by bullet grazed brickwork. Flickering flames dance on either side, the tall walls disappearing into the night sky above. Recommended is the six course tasting menu (zł. 230), which on our visit included eel, smoked at the table, duck with onion chutney and pepper mousse and swordfish served amid billowing ‘sea essence’. Comparisons to Atelier Amaro are inevitable, and speak volumes for the innovation and talents of chef Andrea Camastra. $$$ BEST WAWA 2014 “Foreign Chef” Signature (D5) ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 55 38755, open 12:00-23:00, www.signaturerestaurant.pl ‘Kilian who?’ people asked when Wojciech Kilian was installed as head chef. But this young talent has had the last laugh: set to be Poland’s next big chef, his cooking is extraordinary and presents true fine dining at bargain prices. Kilian’s cause is complimented by a beautiful design described by one reader as a ‘Monegasque state of mind’. Think: friezes and reliefs dated from the time this was the Soviet Embassy, lavish 1950s Oswald chairs, lighting by Serge Mouille and original Marilyn photos shot by the acclaimed Milton Greene. You feel a millionaire just being here. $$ Solec 44 (F4) ul. Solec 44, tel. 798 363 996, open Tue-Sun 12:00-last guest; Mon 16:00-last guest,

www.solec.waw.pl Chef Aleksander Baron is one of the big characters on Warsaw’s foodie circuit, and his love of nose-to-tail food always ensures surprises on the daily changing menu. Using fresh, seasonally appropriate ingredients, this is one of the best alternate dining experiences around: and yeah, it doesn’t really look like a restaurant. Diners order at the counter before sitting down in a spontaneous looking, cut-price interior that clacks and clatters to the sound of grown-ups playing board games. We’re huge fans. $$ Soul Kitchen Bistro ul. Nowogrodzka 18A, open Mon-Thu 12:0022:00; Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 13:00-23:00, tel. 519 020 888, www.soulkitchen.pl If the previous venue was all slanted towards low-pitched business conversation then the new one is positively festive in comparison: scuffed brickwork, tall bar stools, a long communal table, etc. The seasonal menu is a pick-and-mix of small-to-medium plates, including a halibut gravlax, whose delicate taste juxtaposes well against the rougher, earthier kick of the radish, and crayfish presented in a bird’s nest of green beans, fennel and leek. For mains, look for the braised beef. $ Tamka 43 (E3) ul. Tamka 43, tel. 22 441 6234, open Mon-Sun 10:00-23:00, www.tamka.43.pl The design is upscale but in a quiet, dignified manner, with the principal talking point being

THE ONLY MODERN SOUTH AMERICAN CUISINE IN WARSAW

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listings / restaurants the view: there it is, right in front of you, the Ostrogski Palace. For date night, book the peacock’s perch, a table for two that juts out from the rest of the glass frontage. Chef Rafał Hreczaniuk has finessed a menu that stands out as one of the best in the city, with a seasonal tasting menu that on our visit featured beautiful zander with horse radish powder, Irish beef cheek with plenty of oomph, and a wild garlic panna cotta. Consider it one of the Poland’s elite restaurants. $$$ Tapage (D6) pl. Zbawiciela 5, open Sun-Thu 12:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-4:00 Newly opened, it’s best to think of Tapage as a testing ground for experimental ideas. Opened by the same team behind Kaskrut, it’s split into three distinct areas: a terrace, a snug white-tiled bar, and an upstairs nook up some spiral stairs. The menu (scheduled to change every couple of weeks) is brief with dishes presented like proud little artworks. We tried everything (!), and particularly loved the salmon served with sriracha and a bed of diced pineapple. The overlapping tastes form a perfect combination leaving diners stunned. $$ Wilczy Głód (D5) ul. Wilcza 29A, tel. 22 891 0285, open Mon 9:30-20:00; Tue-Thu 9:30-22:00; Fri 9:3023:00; Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 The jaunty, impish design makes use of cartoonish wolves on the walls and tree-like installations strung with bare light bulbs.

And look, there’s a furry, mouse resting on a cushion. But if the place is playful and perky, then the cooking is both serious and sincere.

Matching international ideas with organic local produce from small family farmsteads, you immediately sense this is a place created out of a love and respect for food. $ Wootwórnia (H4) ul. Królowej Aldony 5, tel. 603 696 259, open 10:00-22:00, www.wootwornia.pl.

Accessed round a back garden, Wootwórnia feels like a private little secret – you get the sensation not of visiting a restaurant, but of visiting a friend. The dominant element is the counter, from which co-owner Agnes Woo showcases her homemade preserves and own-baked cakes. Sourcing ingredients from small-scale local farms, here is a menu designed to nourish the soul. And it does just that. The tomato soup, enriched with hint of orange, aniseed and cinnamon isn’t soup of the day, it’s our soup of the year. Genuine ‘food from the heart’. $$

Znajomi Znajomych (C5) ul. Wilcza 58A, open Mon-Thi 12:00-1:00; Fri 12:00-3:00; Sat 13:00-3:00; Sun 13:001:00, znajomiznajomych.waw.pl You can’t label Zna Zna a restaurant because it’s so much more than that: screenings, DJs, yard sales, book readings… there’s not a thing they don’t turn their hand to. But that’s not to say this retro-styled hangout can’t turn their skils to food – here that means light bites, pizzas, burgers and a recommended chili con carne. $$ Żurawina (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34, tel. 22 521 06 66, open Mon-Thu 8:00-24:00; Fri 8:00-1:00; Sat 14:00-1:00; Sun 14:00-22:00, zurawina. eu First a wine bar, second a restaurant, but the food here is such that it merit attention.

There’s only seven or so mains to pick from, and the chef has them down to a tee – rib eye with shallots and truffle butter? Yes please. Certainly, the quality befits one of Warsaw’s best wine bars. $$

italian

‘Simplicity, elegance and atmosphere’

Cafe • Wine Bar • Restaurant • Whisky Bar • Wine Cellar ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 515 037 001 www.hoza.warszawa.pl www.facebook.com/hoza25 Open 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-21:00

Ave Pizza (E3) ul. Topiel 12, tel. 22 828 8507, open 12:00-22:00 The argument over who serves Warsaw’s best pizza goes right to the wire, but there’s no doubting that Ave Pizza are up there on the leaderboard. Set across a sparse, metropolitan area, this fashionable L-shaped joint comes endorsed by the capital’s notoriously picky Italian community.

Order the pillowy calzone and you’ll soon learn why. $ Ave Pizza Piękna 56 (D6) ul. Piękna 56, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:30; Sun 12:00-22:00 After experiencing landslide success in Powiśle the Ave team have listened to the market and expanded to the center. While pizza still plays a prominent role, their newest location is more serious and sophisticated in its culinary intent.

Dishes like prawns in parma ham win blanket approval, while the semifreddo stop you in your tracks. $$ Bacio (D5) ul. Wilcza 43, tel. 22 626 83 03, open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 13:00-23:00; www.warsawinsider.pl

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Restauracja Stary Dom ul. Puławska 104 / 106, 02-620 Warszawa

tel.: (+48) 22 646 42 08 www.restauracjastarydom.pl

Restauracja Zielnik ul. Odyńca 15, 02-608 Warszawa tel.: (+48) 22 844 35 00 www.restauracjazielnik.pl

Restauracja PAPU

Al. Niepodległości 132/136, 02-554 Warszawa

tel.: (+48) 22 856 77 88 www.restauracjapapu.pl

listings / restaurants Sun 13:00-22:00, www.bacio.pl New look Bacio has been de-cluttered and simplified and now features a stripped down look and a menu that peaks with the duck in red wine risotto. Portions are huge, and are matched by a quality that’s seen this once ailing giant reinstalled as one of the top Italian eats in town. $$ Delizia (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 22 622 6665, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00, www.delizia.com.pl The sheer proliferation of Italian restaurants lends an element of chance to dining out: cut through the noise by visiting Delizia, a place that’s consistently topped polls ever since it launched in 2010. Lorenzo’s cooking is upscale Italian with a contemporary twist, and comes presented by Luca, an ebullient ball of energy who patrols the floor with sparkling good humor. In the hands of these two an unforgettable night comes guaranteed.

Top quality imported products, a dimly-lit romantic atmosphere, a tasteful design and faultless food: no wonder so many rate this as their favorite Italian. $$ Dziurka od Klucza (E3) ul. Radna 13, tel. 500 150 494, open Mon-Sun 12:00-22:00, dziurkaodklucza. com.pl An inviting Italian restaurant in which curious doors sit embedded into the walls, as if waiting to be opened by the keys that hang on the tree outside. Striking a lavender look, the magic of this restaurant is affirmed by its wonderful pasta and intimate style. $$

Focaccia (D2) ul. Senatorska 13/15, tel. 22 829 6969, open 8:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-23:00, focaccia.pl Polish foodies already know the name of Łukasz Toczka – single-handedly he pulled the culinary shipwreck that is Gdańsk into the 21st century during his stint at Metamorfoza restaurant. Now he’s popped up in Warsaw, and his Italian menu illustrates his talent: consider the bistecca con sedano a must. And while you’d expect a restaurant inside a palace to be all bowties and oil paintings, it’s anything but – instead find fresh, light interiors that reflect the nature of the food. $$ La Bufala (B4) ul. Sienna 86, tel. 22 654 3277, open daily 11:00-23:00 Not long back this was the go-to place for Italian expats looking for pizza.

What’s gone wrong? No idea, but recent trips reveal a kitchen that hasn’t so much rested on its laurels as died on them. $ Mąka i Woda (D4) ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 91 87, open Mon-Thu 12:00-22:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-20:00 Purists applaud an approach that uses a custom-made oven from Naples and imported ingredients such as 00 Caputo flour and DOP certified San Marzano tomatoes. Scrupulously authentic, it’s no wonder that it’s packed to the gunnels every night of the week – even their Facebook page warns of 20 minute waiting times for a table alone. Learning this, some storm off in a

huff – they need their heads checked, for this is Warsaw’s best pizza. $ Parmizzano’s (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel, Floor 1), tel. 22 630 6306, open 12:00-23:00 The prices are highly intimidating, but are offset by cooking that never falls below brilliant.

Hotel restaurants get a bad rep, but in the formal surrounds of Parmiazzano’s diners can expect Italian food at its very best. $$$ Ristorante San Lorenzo (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 36, tel. 22 652 1616, open 12:00-last guest, www.sanlorenzo. pl Adorned with crisp, starched linen and Roman frescos this space is almost magisterial in design. The Tuscan menu is flawless and well worth the rather hefty bill. The wine bar on the ground floor features the same standards at a snip of the price, and it’s here you’ll find Italian natives cheering the Serie A football. Now also on Żurawia 6/12, only with a more modish design clearly targeted at a slightly younger audience. $$ The Olive (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6706, open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, Sat & Sun 6:30-11:00 Bursting with seasonal fruits and veggies, it’s a fresh, fun place to eat. Hot and cold buffet for zł. 90. $$$ Vapiano Al. Jerozolimskie 63 (Lipinski Passage), tel.

22 356 10 50, open Mon-Thu 9:00-23:00, Fri

Dear Guests!

We invite you to experience an exotic and mysterious adventure full of seasonal aromas and the unforgettable flavours of traditional Indian cuisine.

Curry, coriander, turmeric, cinnamon, ginger, cumin: these aromas mean it’s impossible to pass Buddha without stepping in.

Enjoy the atmosphere of Indian life, food, music and happiness.

Buddha Indian Restaurant ul. Nowy Swiat 23 +48 22 826 35 01 / 725 111 222

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listings / restaurants 9:00-1:00; Sat 11:00-1:00, Sun 11:00-22:00 & ul. Taśmowa 7 (Marynarska Business Park) & ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów) www.vapiano.de/pl Here’s one chain brand that is worth the hype. Featuring a chic look rounded out with Ferrari red colors, the thin crust pizza earns its spurs, and the pasta combinations are great. $$ Venti-tre (E8) ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel), tel. 22 558 1094, open 6:30-23:00 There’s a hum and a buzz to the place that goes beyond the half a million bees kept in the apiary on the rooftop, and that’s never truer than on a Sunday afternoon – swing by for one of Warsaw’s top brunches, and don’t miss the terrace – carefully shielded from the outside world by a phalanx of greenery. The Mediterranean menu has been carefully constructed using local ingredients, with the results befitting one of Warsaw’s top hotels. $$$

japanese & sushi Hana Sushi al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), tel. 22 331 7518, open Mon-Sat 11:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, www.hanasushi.pl Dated decor of bamboo shoots and bonsai trees is made to look good by dreadful service and irritating elevator music. But it’s hard to dislike Hana – the ‘gunkan special’ is out of this world. $$ Izumi Sushi ul. Mokotowska 17 (pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 22 825 7950, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00 & ul. Biały Kamień 4, tel. 22 424 0055, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.izumisushi.eu The original location never ceases to amaze with its sushi, though it’s the addition on Biały Kamień that really gets people talking.

Here it’s not just the food that wows, but the interiors: a huge venue whose open plan doubles as an indoor forest – you need to see it to believe it. $$ Robata by Akashia (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 61, tel. 22 636 6767, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00, www.akashia.pl Upstairs is raw and red and black, while downstairs is more calming, though no less interesting: it’s like stepping into a Manga comic, what with the Godzilla graffiti and industrial format. Even the staff

look like they’ve been ordered to dress up like Tokyo cool kids. The star here though is the robata grill. We opted for a ‘spray and pray’ approach: ordering lots of little dishes in the hope something would come up trumps. In the event, everything did. $$ Ryż i Ryba (D6) ul. Piękna 20, tel. 22 627 4150, open Mon-Fri 11:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-22:00, www.ryziryba.pl The art of sushi is given a new lease of life in this Piękna newbie. The flavors are a revelation, making it more than just a stop-off for passing office workers. $$

Newly opened location of Soul Kitchen Bistro.

Modern, classic Polish cuisine

Sakana Sushi Bar ul. Burakowska 5/7 tel. 22 636 0505, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00, Sun 13:00-22:00 & ul. Moliera 4/6, tel. 22 826 5958, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-1:00; Sun 13:00-22:00 & ul. Wąwozowa 6, lok.10B, tel. 22 498 8899, Mon-Sat 12:0022:30, Sun 13:00-22:00, www.sakana.pl Sushi as a fashion statement? That’s what you find in Sakana, a place where the glam and the great of Warsaw peacock around with feathers on display. Ignoring the general vanity and unpleasantness, one can’t help but applaud the sushi – if there was one winner in the sushi wars of the noughties, then Sakana was it. $$ Sushi Zushi (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 420 3373, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-03:00; Sun 13:00-22:00, www.sushizushi.pl The mania for sushi is in recess, and that’s a good thing – the rogue operators are dead or dying off, and are survived by the best.

And make no mistake, Sushi Zushi continue to be the No. 1 ex-pat choice. Appreciated by a stunning crowd, the rolls are often bold, creative and always astonishingly fresh. $$ Tomo (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2344, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.tomo.pl Excellent.

While Warsaw’s other sushi stops gather cobwebs Tomo packs out each night – that should say enough. With the maki, sushi and sashimi bobbing past on wooden platters, this place aims for fast, maximum turnover without ever making the diner feel second best. $$ Uki Uki (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, tel. 728 827 705, open 12:00-21:00, ukiuki.pl Depending on how

ul. Nowogrodzka 18A tel. 519 020 888 www.soulkitchen.pl www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / restaurants busy they are, Uki Uki will prepare your Udon noodles fresh within 15-30 minutes. The electric pasta maker, imported from Japan, is a Godzilla of a monster, compressing and even cutting the udon dough into chunky, chewy noodles that provide a solid foundation for a richly satisfying meal. Every now and again a restaurant comes along that makes Warsaw’s dining scene all the more complete – Uki Uki is one of those. $$

of years, and they’ve all quickly folded.

Already though, there’s the impression Galil might last the distance, a point underlined by the rather good food. We started with a zesty tabouleh before moving on to grilled chicken breast with dates and a syrup glaze. Set inside a rambling, tiled interior, this labyrinthine space already looks like its snaring big-spending groups. Kosher certified, as well. $$

Wabu (D5) ul. Krucza 41/43, tel. 22 628 9274, open 12:00-23:00, wabu.pl The food is a masterpiece: immaculate futomaki rolls that look like little artworks, exquisite butterfish and glorious tuna gunkan that flashes with freshness. Screw the chopsticks, food this good finds itself scooped up in the fingers and demolished in seconds. Soon enough it all becomes a blur of beautiful compositions, of silky slithers of fish crowned with expert pinches of this, and little brush strokes of that. The details don’t seem to matter, what does is that Wabu blow the competition out of the water, even if it does leave the credit card streaming smoke. $$$

Pod Samsonem (C1) ul. Freta 3/5, tel. 22 831 1788, open 10:0023:00, www.podsamsonem.pl Operating since the 1950s – crazy when you think about it. This is the place for an ordinary meal in an ordinary space. The menu mixes aspects of Polish and Jewish cooking, and fails to do a good job of either. Entertainment is provided by the staff: find them engaged in something akin to war with the people they serve. $

jewish Galil (C3) ul. Zielna 36, tel. 731 492 634, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Sun 14:00-23:00, www.galil-restaurant.pl There’s been a few Jewish restaurants opened in the last couple

latin & mexican Aioli (D3) ul. Świętokrzyska 18, tel. 22 290 102, open Sun-Thu 9:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 9:00-24:00, www.aioli-cantine.com This runaway hit has taken Warsaw by storm. It’s a jaunty space with hams hanging from hooks and long communal tables that thrive with life. Aioli’s breakfasts, sandwiches, pastas and pizzas are a lesson in clean, simple pleasure: nothing out of the world, just consistently good. This and the liberal prices mean there’s no shortage of

people passing in and out the doors. $$ Blue Cactus (E8) ul. Zajączkowska 11, tel. 22 851 2323, open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 9:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, www.bluecactus.pl It’s been around for so long that people had started referring to the Cactus in the past tense. Enter executive chef Patrick Hanna, a man who has revitalized and revived the place in a way no-one could have imagined. Combining the barbecuing techniques of the southern states with the humble but potent tastes of Mexico, Hanna has reawakened this sleeping giant.

Committed to local produce and fresh flavors, his finest moment has been hoiking over a wood-fired grill all the way from Nashville – the steaks will stop you in your tracks. Say it loudly: the Blue Cactus is back! $

Casa Pablo (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5A, tel. 22 324 5781, open Mon-Sat 12:00-last guest, www.casapablo.pl “We give Spanish food a new twist,” declares chef Gonzalo de Salas, which explains why, in between pungent cheeses and acorn-fed Bellota ham, we find ourselves demolishing a variety of dishes that buck all notions of tradition: as a starter the beetroot-marinated salmon served with wasabi emulsion is a fine example of this. With de Salas performing balletic tricks in the kitchen, Casa Pablo

The Biggest selection of Lebanese wine in the world! (see page 46 for details) Le Cedre 61

opposite the zoo Al. Solidarności 61, Praga Tel 22 670 11 66

Le Cedre 84

opposite the court Al. Solidarności 84 Tel 22 618 89 99

www.lecedre.pl

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listings / restaurants presents a masterful menu that ripples with adventure. $$ Dos Tacos (D4) ul. Jasna 22, tel. 22 243 4618, open 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00, dostacos. pl Dos Tacos finally have a venue worthy of the food. Featuring lots of Mexican lizard art and psychedelic, Day of the Dead touches, find the interiors busy with a lively crowd enjoying an exciting range of salsas and authentic Mexican recipes as cooked by Isabela Balderas. $$ Gringo Bar (E9) ul. Odolańska 15, tel. 22 848 9523, open Mon-Sat 12:00-20:00; Sun 11:00-20:00 A Mexican wave is upon us, and high time too. After years of suffering frozen ingredients, timid flavors and daft Mariachi music to persuade us it’s all authentic, a raft of new cut-price eateries are showing the rest how it’s done. Cooked and folded by fist bumping lads in back-to-front caps and baggy t-shirts, the food at Gringo is by far the best of the bunch: fiery, fresh and full of zing. And what about this for a nice summer surprise: their brief summer closure saw them knock a wall through to expand the premises by a good 40 sq/m. So no more sitting with bearded strangers on the sole communal table! $ Jamon (D2) ul. Wierzbowa 9, tel. 22 692 4223, open 12:00-23:00, jamon.pl The place looks the biz – custom made artwork presents swirling senoritas against an interior that’s based around a naval color palette and reclaimed wood touches. Perfect for ‘hot dates’.

There’s an onus on authenticity, and that’s evidenced by the four Spaniards found in the kitchen. We could find no weak point, meaning complete enjoyment of the tranche of black Alaskan cod, bulgy-eyed Huelva prawns and slow-roasted lamb shank. The desert – white chocolate cream – is worth a prize. $$ Tapas Gastrobar (A4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 251 1310, open Mon-Thu 12:00-last guest (kitchen closes at 23:00); Fri-Sat 12:00-last guest (kitchen closes at midnight); Sun 12:00-19:00 (kitchen closes at 18:00), tapasbar.pl The engaging design features scuffed timber tables supported by rescued factory metal, open ductwork and elaborate floor tiles of Iberian persuasion. But the food is what everyone is talking about: the first class

gazpacho, prepared onsite then served in a bottle, is full of refreshing summer zing, while the beef cheek is pure melty tenderness. Our favorite, though, are the patatas bravas, perfectly fried potatoes served in a ballsy tomato sauce. Just amazing. $$ BEST WAWA 2014 “Casual Dining” Spoco Loco (H4) ul. Francuska 8, open 12:00-21:00, www. spocoloco.pl It begins with a bead of sweat.

Then a couple of tears. Then the real pain starts and doesn’t retract until you’ve rolled on the floor and died for twenty minutes.

Spoco Loco’s No. 7 sauce is no laughing matter, and should be treated with respect.

But this tiny eatery is not founded on gimmicks. The burritos and quesadillas are the real deal, and ably supported by a choice of milder sauces that don’t require Red Cross treatment. After a mysterious absence of six months, it’s heartening to see Spoco Loco back open for business. $

middle eastern

Seduces with the taste

Modern take on Italian Cuisine Mediterranean starters, seafood, pasta, pizza and Italian desserts Free car park for restaurant guests

Le Cedre (E1) Al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166, open daily 11:0023:00, www.lecedre. pl With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops. $$

Le Cedre 84 (B3) Al. Solidarności 84, tel. 22 618 8999, open 11:00-23:00, www.lecedre.pl Le Cedre just keep on getting it right. Authenticity is key in this chainlette (well, there’s another across the river), as you’ll discover when talking to Tony, the Lebanese owner. To see the diversity of this cuisine, order the balbaak (six cold starters) or the byblos (six hot). And food aside, it’s the atmosphere that carries them that extra yard: the whole philosophy of this cuisine is to share and share alike, making it a uniquely engaging experience when dining with friends. $$

www.focaccia.pl tel.: 22 829 69 69, Senatorska 13/15 Warsaw/Old Town www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / restaurants Meza Beirut (D4) ul. Ordynacka 13, tel. 22 692 7555 God knows how many restaurants have chanced their luck in this location, though Meza Beirut look a better bet than most to break the hex. Lebanese-run, the menu here is comprehensive with all the requisite hot and cold mezze and grilled and skewered meats.

Early feedback has been largely positive, with decent prices and fresh flavors doing their bit to stir local interest. $$ Sokotra (D5) ul. Wilcza 27, tel. 22 270 2766, open Mon-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00 A Yemeni restaurant with a brief menu full of recognizable Eastern dishes like hummus and grilled halloumi. And one of the big boons is the discovery that Indian influences also fall under the compass of Yemeni cuisine – the madras leaves you puffing smoke rings. Find all that in a casual interior composed of chattery locals and mysterious concrete additions – e.g. a telegraph pole squeezed amid the tables. $$

polish

Amber Room at the Sobański Palace (E6) Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat 12:00-22:30; Sun 12:00-20:00, www.amberroom.pl The Amber Room is, indeed, a bit of a treasure.

You know all the chefs we bang on about in this mag? Bottom line, the good ones came through via this kitchen. But this is more than a training ground for future stars, it’s a place that remains on the cutting edge in spite of its seemingly straight look. Positioned inside a majestic villa, the food is pure contemporary Poland, and well deserving of its Michelin nod. For that, thank chef Robert Skubisz. $$$ Atelier Amaro (E6) ul. Agrykola 1, tel. 22 628 5747, www. atelieramaro.pl The recipient of Poland’s

only Michelin star, Atelier promotes pedigree Polish produce enhanced by modern techniques, with courses interspersed by occasionally bizarre interludes (leaves, flowers, twigs, etc.). Don’t miss the bespoke vodka menu, either. It’s an extraordinary dining experience, and one which confirms the growing cult of chef Wojciech Amaro. In the hours you’re here, the world stops and you leave feeling like James Bond. Reservations are mandatory, with a waiting list that is approximately two to three months long. $$$ BEST WAWA 2014 “Presentation”

Belvedere Łazienki Królewskie ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. 22 558 6701, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-20:00, belvedere.com.pl Regarded as one of the great names on Warsaw’s culinary carousel, this restaurant never ceases to impress: set in a imperial age glass orangery, it’s festooned

Spanish owner, Spanish chef… SPANISH SOUL! ul. Grzybowska 63 (next to the Hilton Hotel) 00-844 Warszawa +48 22 251 1310 www.tapasgastrobar.pl

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listings / restaurants with intricate latticework and botanical exotica. The updated interiors are the work of acclaimed set designer Boris Kudlicka, and lend a fresh, contemporary tone that goes hand in hand with Adam Komar’s menu. But behind the gels and emulsions and pretty little swirls, this is cooking of substantial depth; it’s cooking that takes you to the very soul of Polish nature. $$$

Czerwony Wieprz (Red Hog) (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 22 850 3144, open daily 12:0024:00 (kitchen to 23:00), www.czerwonywieprz.pl Now everyone is rich and happy, it’s easy to forget communism was a pretty dire experiment. Which explains the playful nature of this commie themed restaurant. Dining is done under red banners and paintings of nasty political activists, while the menu is a humorous affair divided between dishes for the dignitary and

proletariat – all details that saw it names as one of the Top 25 Unique Restaurants in the World. Another vodka, comrade, and the First Secretary’s pork loins while you’re there! $$ Dawne Smaki (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 49, tel. 22 465 83 20, www. dawnesmaki.pl At last, a proper restaurant on Nowy Świat! The interiors hark to the past, while the back garden promises an oasis-like experience: if you’re new to Warsaw, it’s actually worth hanging around till summer just to see it. Chef Michał Bajerski, formerly of Regina Hotel, wraps it up nicely with a fantastic menu that modernizes traditional Polish recipes. Recommended: deer steak. $$ Delicja Polska (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 64, tel. 22 826 4770, www.delicjapolska.pl Looking stately (pink bows, gilt touches and immaculate linen) but never stuffy, Delicja have a modern Polish menu that includes sous-vide salmon marinated in beetroot leave, then topped with horseradish foam and dill emulsion.

Brilliant. But then so was everything else we tried, including the exquisite seasoned roast beef. $$

Dom Polski (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 2432, open daily 12:00-last guest, www.restauracjadompolski.pl Almost like it was designed for the manor born, Dom Polski has the rarefied atmosphere of a country retreat: bow-tied staff who click their heels, decorative antiques and a menu that’s a sumptuous anthology of posh Polish cooking. When you need to give visitors a sense of classic Warsaw, Dom Polski is the first out of the hat. $$$ Dom Polski Belwederska (F8) ul. Belwederska 18A, tel. 22 840 5060, open 12:00-23:00, restauracjadompolski.pl The perfect complement to their older sister on Francuska, the new offshoot of Dom Polski

Krakowskie Przedmieście 64 tel. +48 22 826 4770 email. info@delicjapolska.pl www.delicjapolska.pl

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listings / restaurants features a beautiful look that draws heavily on classic, almost noble inspirations. As for the garden, that in itself is a fairytale that requires exploration. The menu is as you’d expect, a modernized take on the traditional, with the game dishes an emphatic favorite. $$

Folk Gospoda (B3) ul. Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605, www. folkgospoda.plSometimes all you want to do is slather lard on a big hunk of bread before surrounding yourself with little shots of ice cold vodka. You wouldn’t call it cultivated, but there are occasions when a good knees-up around a rough wooden table is exactly what’s required. And while you’re there, why not add platters of meat to the scene, a crackling fireplace and a mountain band. Folk Gospoda do all that making them the default favorite for a traditional night out. $$

Halka Restaurcja po polsku ul. Puławska 43, tel. 509 593 305, open Mon-Fri 11:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-22:00, restauracjahalka.pl Named in honor of one of Poland’s best known operas, Halka offer a glimpse of old school Warsaw. Having relocated from downtown Pańska, the new address is a cut and paste of the former location: lots of glinting surfaces, ornate crockery and pink flower arrangements. Innovation is surrendered for a menu that deals in classic interpretations of upmarket Polish food: rabbit, goose, duck and other animals shot on country estates.

Kuchnia Funkcjonalna (G3) ul. Jakubowska 16 (enter from ul. Estońska), tel. 512 893 898, open Mon-Thu 11:0023:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-23:00 Snuck inside one of Saska’s definitive modernist buildings, Kuchnia make slow food accessible to all wallets. Venison from the Bieszczady Mountains,

dairy products from Jersey cattle milk, and the use of goose fat instead of butter are just a few noteworthy characteristics; the frequently changing menu reflects the commitment to nature. The ascetic design is softened by a cast-iron stove and moody lighting, giving the restaurant a warm, seasonal glow, while the garden gives people the opportunity to eavesdrop the big concerts at the stadium next door! $$

Papu (D9) al. Niepodległości 132/136, tel. 22 856 7788, open 11:00-22:30, restauracjapapu. pl The elegant décor sees wood-paneled walls lined with champagne bottles, making it an experience that is at once intimate and romantic. Chef Bartek Kędra’s menu is specifically strong when it comes to white and red meats: order the beef rib. It’s a massive, brutal instrument that could be used to club someone to death. Fall-off-

Slow food and a slow life philosophy inside an urban interior and a luxury wine and spirits list. Our kitchen uses only high quality regional and ecological produce. tel. 22 623 02 90, www.dwietrzecie.waw.pl

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listings / restaurants the-bone good, this Flintstone monster is seriously memorable. Other courses are more sophisticated, and include a knee trembling, lipstick red strawberry tartar. $$ Podwale Piwna Kompania (D2) ul. Podwale 25, tel. 22 635 6314, www. podwale25.pl Prowling mountain bands generate a beer hall atmosphere, while the courtyard garden – designed to replicate a Mitteleuropa square – is one of the best you’ll find. But the obscene portions can’t mask what is pretty poor food. Go there for the experience, if nothing else. $ Restauracja Polska “Różana” (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 22 848 1225, open 12:00-last guest, www.restauracjarozana. com.pl The rarified atmosphere of Różana is a pleasure indeed. Close to the frontline of Mokotów / Śródmieście, you’d never guess the proximity of the center. Seated in their garden, one feels removed from the city – a fountain burbles quietly in the background, starlings hop around the trees.

From the inside, one hears the distant tinkle of the house pianist. Just being here is a thrill in itself, and the food is a Polish dining extravaganza served from the top table: farmhouse duck, saddle of venison, etc.

Słoik (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 600 396 688, open Mon-Fri 10:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-23:00, restauracjasloik.pl Jarheads will love Słoik, a place lined with glass jars brimming with colorful ingredients and bright preserves. Find natural Polish produce and traditional-sounding dishes treated with a careful and contemporary hand. The approach pits modernist against classic, and the winner is, well, you.

This is traditional Polish food updated for the discerning, latter day palate – and it’s really quite something. $

Soul Kitchen Bistro ul. Nowogrodzka 18A, tel. 519 020 888, open Mon-Thu 12:0022:00; Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 13:00-23:00, www.soulkitchen.pl Talk about brilliant.

After a brief hiatus Soul Kitchen return with a new location and ‘bistro’ added to their title.

The cooking is as you remember: a stonking celebration of Polish nature. The difference is the price – slashed right down. $$

Stary Dom ul. Puławska 104/106, tel. 22 646 4208, open 12:00-23:30, restauracjastarydom.pl A classic restaurant in style and history: back in the day it was a favorite haunt of jockeys and race goers from the horse track nearby.

Pre-war recipes form the basis of the menu, with the team using seasonal produce and the latest technology to bring out its best. $$ U Fukiera (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 27 (Old Town Market Square), tel. 22 831 1013, open 12:00-last guest, www.ufukiera.pl New arrivals looking to get a grasp of local cuisine have many options in varying price brackets. U Fukiera is definitely in the big spend category, but visitors come away with a common sense of wonderment. That’s largely due to enchanting interiors that have guests exploring twinkling chambers that unravel like a fairytale. Set in a 500 year old townhouse, the beautiful backdrop is accompanied by a grand menu of duck, venison, veal and lamb. $$$

Varso Vie (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 2, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-22:00, tel. 22 622 2472, varsovie.pl Despite the concrete color palette Varso Vie retains a good buzz. It helps that on one side guests are flanked by punchy bursts of modern art, and on the other, an open kitchen that’s all clamor, commotion and general rumpus. The menu is modern Polish: duck stomachs in a flaky puff pastry with a thick smear of thyme sauce; Baltic trout served on a pinkish mush of red lentils and mint; and a coveted meringue mousse with mascarpone and passion fruit jelly.

Exemplary. $$

Zapiecek Locations inc. ul. Nowy Świat 64, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska 13, tel. 22 635 61 09, open

Traditional Polish cuisine Best venison and lamb in Warsaw Live music Regional wine, beer and spirits Grand Kredens - 16 years full of tradition

Aleje Jerozolimskie 111 tel. +48 22 629 80 08 Mob. +48 697 900 000 kredens@kredens.com.pl www.kredens.com.pl Follow us on Facebook www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / restaurants 11:00-23:00 & ul. Wańkowicza 1, open 11:00-22:00, CH Arkadia, open 10:00-22:00, www.zapiecek.eu Seven Warsaw locales, with our favorite found in the vaulted passages of Świętojańska. The menu is highly traditional, with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’.

It’s for the pierogi though for which they’re famous; find approx. fifty types delivered by servers dressed like saucy country maids. $

Zielnik (D10) ul. Odyńca 15, tel. 22 844 3500, open 10:0023:30, restauracjazielnik.pl A quiet Mokotów side street is the setting for this little secret.

In it, flowers, lots of them, and a warming wood interior just right for winter. And then the food arrives: dainty veal dumplings, and tender braised veal that’s good for the chills.

You leave knowing you have eaten honestly and well. $$

scandinavian Nabo ul. Zakręt 8, tel. 22 842 0256, open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:30; Sat-Sun 9:00-21:30, www. nabocafe.pl The décor is, we’re told, typical Danish cafe – bold open windows, simple lines, high shelves filled with books and games on the table. But what is Danish food?

There’s Old Danish on the menu: meatballs and open face sandwiches with meat and fish in various textural configurations and

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then there’s New Danish: an emerging trend towards fresh, seasonal food (no microwave oven at Nabo), with locally sourced and innovatively concocted ingredients. $$

specialty food shops Befsztyk ul. Puławska 176/178, tel. 22 843 6110, www.befsztyk.pl The Prokopowicz family has come a long way since launching Befsztyk in 1994. Top restaurants, celebs and ex-pats are listed as clients, and all agree that this operation is indisputably ‘top of the chops’.

Find steaks seasoned for three weeks, gluten-free smoked meats, Merino lamb, BBQ kits and so much more. Home delivery, internet ordering and English-speaking staff round out this legend.

Bio Bazar (B4) ul. Żelazna 51/53, tel. 22 318 8855, open Sat 8:00-16:00, www.biobazar.org.pl Fruit and veg in the first warehouse, some of it imported from as far as Argentina. In the second warehouse, find organic cheese varieties from sheep and goats, as well as import brands from Italy, France and the Netherlands.

Forteca Kregliccy ul. Zakroczymska 12, open Weds 8:0016:00, kregliccy.eu/forteca Spot the stars

of Warsaw’s restaurant scene perusing the stalls at this weekly farmers’ market. Look for Pan Ziółko, Poland’s first celebrity farmer (!), Portobello’s from the country’s only organic mushroom farm and the magical yogurts from Mleczna Droga Manufaktura Serów.

Marks & Spencer Various locations inc. DT Wars & Sawa, ul.

Marszałkowska 104/122, tel. 22 551 7553, open Mon-Sat 9:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00, www.marks-and-spencer.com.pl Visit the flagship Marszałkowska branch to take advantage of the on-site bakery, but visit early as choice diminishes early. Aside from baked goods find a widely appreciated frozen food section that include British sausages, bacon and microwave curries.

Samira ul. Powsińska 64A, tel. 22 825 3363, open 10:00-21:00; Sun 12:00-18:00, samira. pl Now in bigger and better premises, this Lebanese supermarket offers a comprehensive rundown of imported goods that ranges from spices, preserves and rubs to nuts, olives, teas and soft drinks.

steak houses Butchery & Wine (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 502 3118, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00, www. butcheryandwine.pl The Sarf London-born Bertha oven has revolutionized the way steak

OLIVA_SIERPIEN_46x206_01 2015.08.21

listings / restaurants is cooked, retaining moisture in a way no-one thought possible. Expect robust pieces of animal full of big, brawny tastes, but there’s so much more than just meat: starters involve a sea bass ceviche that pings with citrusy flavor not to mention more-ish pork crackling that pop like fire bangers in the mouth. A place of energy and ambition, it’s a great mix of both new and classic. Bookings advised. $$ Downtown Restaurant (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental Hotel, level 2), tel. 22 328 8745, open Mon-Fri for Breakfast 6:30-10:00; Sat 6:30-11:00, 12:00-15:00, 18:00-23:00; Sat 12:0016:00, Sunday Brunch 12:30-16:00, dinner 18:00-23:00 There’s now a few candidates for Warsaw’s best steak, and Downtown have certainly upped the erm, stakes, with their new menu. Yes, the doors of Downtown are a gateway to heaven – particularly true if, like us, your vision of heaven is a rich green field filled with fat, juicy cows. But don’t for one moment assume the offer ends with cows. Now added to their menu are other animalitos like kangaroo. $$$ Hoża (D5) ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 603 778 275, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, hoza.warszawa.pl Wine and steak: it sounds so simple, but Hoża have taken two simple pleasures to another level. It’s a vibrant space with service right out of charm school, and a kitchen team with a real knowledge of cows. A red-blooded affair, the menu is a steak sensation and well paired with a handpicked wine list. $$ Merliniego 5 (E10) ul. Merliniego 5, tel. 22 646 0810, www. merliniego5.pl A classic looking steakhouse that swirls in shadow, brickwork and elegant touches, it’s a place to immerse yourself in an atmosphere that’s all surreptitious conversation and distant clinking glasses. The steaks are out-of-this world, with USDA prime beef from New York’s legendary Ottomanelli & Sons and Scottish beef from London’s Smithfield Market. On our last visit we splurged on the Grade 9+ wagyu ‘kobe’ rib-eye and found ourselves eating the steak of a lifetime.

Simply amazing. $$$

Salto (C6) ul. Wilcza 73, tel.

22 584 8771, www. saltorestauracja.pl When Martin Gimenez

Castro scooped top prize in the Top Chef program it simply confirmed what foodies had known for years: that this is a man of some talent. Now leading the kitchen in Salto, the highlight of Castro’s menu is undoubtedly the ‘steak weekends’. We challenge you to find better. During the week opt instead for his South American inspired dishes. Salto has the hallmarks of a success story, and under Castro’s captaincy that’s a certainty to happen. $$$

thai my’o’tai ul. Szpitalna 8 (enter on Górskiego), tel.

662 742 901, open Mon-Thu 12:00-24:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-3:00, Sun 12:00-21:00 While the menu lacks standard Thai dishes (no noodles!?), the tastes are thoroughly authentic and a credit to chef Trisno Hamidis. The caramelized spicy chicken wings are so good you’ll think about ordering them twice. $$ Thai Thai (C2) Pl. Teatralny 3, tel. 601 818 283, open 12:00-23:00, www.thaithai.pl In terms of design it’s little short of perfect: gold vaulted interiors lend a muted glow to a largely black on black space while serene looking Buddha’s peer on the diners below.

As for the food, that’s one big success story with plenty of lively flavors and vibrant colors.

The Tom Yang Kung, a deeply nourishing fish broth that awakens the senses with a sharp, spicy jolt, is a must! $$

restauracjaoliva.pl

phone +48 501 497 410 facebook.com/RestauracjaOliva twitter.com/OlivaWarszawa

Thaisty (C2) pl. Bankowy 4, tel. 730 000 024, thaisty.pl The coup here has been the recruitment of Chanunkan Duangkumma, Warsaw’s favorite Thai chef. The menu has street food inspirations and also includes several recipes passed down Duangkumma’s family line: consider the BBQ beef skewers essential. Vivid colors and a busy open kitchen lend the place a happy buzz that lasts through the day.

Why Thai (E5) ul. Wiejska 13, tel. 22 625 7698, open Sun-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00, www.whythai.pl A fresh attractive look, an authentic chef and a menu that doesn’t waffle on for pages and pages. But there’s something missing here, with the flavors not quite hitting the notes one expects. $$

Warszawa

Ordynacka 10/12

open 12 am - 11 pm

WELCOME

www.warsawinsider.pl

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cafes & wine bars NEW & NOTEWORTHY

NITRO LODY (ul. Zwycięzców 11, nitrolody.pl) Branding themselves as Warsaw’s first molecular ice cream parlor, this venture specializes in ice cream frozen with liquid nitrogen by lab coated staff: the results are as exciting in practice as they are in theory. Choose from an array of flavors, among them kiwi, gingerbread and Snickers. More than just a gimmick, the whole liquid nitrogen process ensures your ice cream is smoother than a pane of glass.

bakeries Aromat (C4) ul. Sienna 39, tel. 22 620 0819, open Mon-Fri 7:00-19:00; Sat 8:00-16:00 We’re told the interiors were purposefully kept neutral to keep the focus on the product – and crikey, what bread. French flour and an expert baker ensure brilliant results, while the lemon éclairs deserve their own Facebook page. Some claim it’s the best bakery in Poland, and we’re not arguing.

Café Vincent (D3) ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. 22 828 0115, open Sun-Thu 6:30-24:00; Fri-Sat 6:30-1:00 Ex-pats from France, a nation of master bakers if ever there were, profess Vincent to be their favorite Warsaw bakery. And they’re not alone. Queues build quickly as locals line up to buy baguettes, cinnamon rolls, lemon croissants and beautiful pains au chocolat.

But people don’t just head in then out, a small wine list and brilliant people spying opportunities cause most to linger.

Petit Appetit (E6) ul. Mokotowska 45, open Mon-Sat 8:00-19:00; Sun 8:00-18:00 The smell of freshly-baked loaves often wafts into the street, leaving passers-by with no option but to peer in – sweet temptation. And sweet is the right word: aside from divine baguettes check the pastries and brioches.

cafés

PRZEPIS (ul. Śniadeckich 12/16) An unassuming entrance opens up to reveal an intriguing interior that’s heavy on distressed wood surfaces and a color palette of hot pink and battlecruiser grey. And then there’s the artwork – definitely a conversation starter on a slow date. Dubbing themselves as a ‘gastro café’, most agree the desserts are enjoyable and the sandwiches even more so.

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Być Może (E7) ul. Bagatela 14, tel. 519 000 014, open 7:00-23:00, www.bycmoze.com.pl It’s all about artisan bread and breakfast in the industrial looking Być Może. It’s taken the concept of Charlotte (groan, there’s even a communal table), and improved it with excellent breads and a crowd that’s a little less pleased with itself and a little more normal.

Café Iluzja (C9) ul. Narbutta 50A, tel. 698 423 738, open

listings / cafés & wine bars daily 11:00-22:00, www.cafeiluzja.pl Bathed in white, black and shades of grey, it’s an allusion to the black-and-white films of bygone days. The interiors as a whole were designed in a 1950s vibe and the massive armchairs are by far the best part. What more do you expect from a café inside a cult socialist era cinema.

Chłodna 25 (B3) ul. Chłodna 25, tel. 604 614 287, open MonFri 9:00-22:00; Sat 11:00-22:00; Sun 12:0022:00 It’s back! Under new management, this Warsaw legend has been reclaimed from the hipsters and given over to the creative classes. A place of creaking floorboards, retro armchairs and bookshelves in the process of being filled, that this neighborhood hangout draws more than just neighbors is evidence of its greatness. And the really good bit?

They’ve now got beer (Bojan, Lwówek and Goralskie) – let joy be unconfined!

Cophi (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 513 422 908, open 7:30-20:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-17:00 Deviating away from ‘the Warsaw look’ (i.e. concrete, pipes, etc.), Cophi is the kind of place you actually want to stay in: homey and intimate but at the same time light and modern. You can sense the thought and passion behind this operation from the staff – find them using Aeropress, Chemex, siphon and drip methods with almost scientific precision in their quest to serve you what some are already claiming to be Warsaw’s best coffee.

wobbles, nooks and alcoves. All agree there’s something special here: maybe it’s the book selection – varied, esoteric and at once compelling. Or maybe it’s the atmosphere, such that browsers anchor themselves on the sofas to lose an afternoon with their nose in a novel while sipping drip coffee. Whatever the secret ingredient is, the bookish bustle makes it the most extraordinary literary hangout in the Polish capital.

Fawory ul. Mickiewicza 21, tel. 791 096 725, open Mon-Thur 8:00-22:00; Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 10:00-22:00 An intimate neighborhood cafe that comes complete with mugs that announce: “Fresh Coffee Tastes Better”. You bet it does. The smoothies and regional beers are just as good though, and come served inside a white interior splashed with an awesome mural.

Kafka Café (E3) ul. Oboźna 3, tel. 22 826 0822, open 9:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00, www. kawiarnia-kafka.pl A chessboard floor and a collection of antlers on the wall characterize Kafka, a bookstore / café whose literary collection is composed of paperbacks rescued from recycling plants. Books are purchased by their weight (zł. 10 per kilo) while the menu includes pancakes, pastas and even doggy treats for your mutt.

Crepe Café (E3) ul. Dobra 19, tel. 22 121 2275, open 8:0020:00 Is there such a thing as the perfect pancake? If not, then Crepe Café certainly comes close. Enjoy them in a contemporary interior that’s tiny in size: grab a seat up on the mezzanine level.

Krucza 23 Café & Bakery ul. Krucza 23, open Mon-Fri 7:30-20:00; SatSun 10:00-20:00 They didn’t spend much time thinking about the name, that’s a given, but that’s not to say creativity is entirely absent. There’s lots of organic activity on the menu, plus an exciting spread of eco-coffee from far-flung nations. Find all this done in a post-industrial interior that makes use of lots of concrete and natural light.

Cukiernia Stary Dom ul. Puławska 104/106, tel. 22 646 4208, open 12:00-23:30, restauracjastarydom.pl A beautifully elegant confectionary that evokes memories of Old Poland. Flock wallpaper and checkered floors add to the high tea ambience, as do the lines of glinting bottles and a counter stocked with temptations. Pastry chef Mariusz Palarczykow is a king in his field.

Latający Obiekt (D7) Oleandrów 3, tel. 732 870 780, open MonSat 18:00-23:00 “I like Frisbee, I like beer – that’s why I created this place,” so says Piotr, the owner. Made in Canada Frisbees come in all colors and shapes (even mini-size for mutts), and are complimented by regional beers and homemade biscuits. A bizarre find in Poland – likely the first of its kind.

Czuły Barbarzyńca ul. Dobra 31, open 10:00-22:00; Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, czuly.pl A Parisian-style bookstore full of steps and

Między Nami (D4) ul. Bracka 20, tel. 22 828 5417, open Mon-Wed 10:00-23:00; Thu 10:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun14:00-23:00, www.

miedzynamicafe.com With 18 years of service under their belt you may think of Między Nami as being an antiquated has-been.

Not so. Haunted by a mix of media types and local characters, this hip white piece of post-commie Warsaw has an enduring, almost timeless appeal.

Ministerstwo Kawy (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 27/35, tel. 503 080 906, open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:0022:00, www.ministerstwokawy.pl Sourcing their coffee from Koppi, an internationally acclaimed Swedish roasting house, the ministry takes no short cuts in their pursuit of excellence. Utilizing Ethiopian, Costa Rican and Brazilian arabicas – some exclusive to Poland – barista Wojciech Rzytki has earned a reputation across Poland for his expert hand. Rave reviews are standard and appropriate in this standout cafe.

BEST WAWA 2014 “Coffee” MiTo (D6) ul. Waryńskiego 28, tel. 22 629 0815, open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-23:00, www.mito.art.pl Café, gallery, bookstore.

Of course, we’ve seen that concept before, just not done in this style. Stark white backgrounds are offset by edgy art, lending the place a Tate Modern feel, something accentuated by the earnest fashion students who gather through the day. And there’s the toilet, a futuristic affair with piped music and a mirrored wall. my’o’my (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8 (enter from Górskiego), open Mon 11:00-22:00; Tue-Thu 10:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-21:00, www. myomy.pl Slightly rustic in design, with wooden panels painted white and winding stairs that lead to a charming second floor.

The baked goods are courtesy of baker extraordinaire Zofia Różycka, and the rest of the food offer is pretty grand as well. Its popularity with Warsaw’s mid-20s set makes it occasionally claustrophobic.

Niezłe Ziółko Café & Deli (D5) ul. Krucza 17, tel. 664 844 439 A shrine to pure and healthy eating, this friendly café doesn’t just brew a great coffee, but bakes its own bread and produces its own yogurt.

Sit in the loft to look down on shoppers scurrying to Mokotowska, and on the way out, check out ‘Grandma’s Cupboard’ in the corner: jams, spreads and olive oils are there to buy for home. www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / cafés & wine bars Odette ul. Górskiego 6/07, open Tue-Sun 10:0020:00; Mon 13:00-20:00, odette.pl Almost holistic in its ambience, the obstacle-free interior utilizes aspects of space and light, causing attention to naturally fall on the long, sleek counter that occupies one end. It’s here that Piotr Chylarecki’s sweet creations glimmer behind glass like precious little gems. Constructed in the adjoining ‘food lab’, these are desserts fit to grace fine dining moments.

OSiR ul. Tamka 40, open Sun-Thu 16:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 16:00-2:00 OSiR’s manifesto declares it a ‘cycle culture’ café, which means incoming guests should brace for all kinds of bike related props in this urban, raw and ready hideout. Beyond the cycling propaganda, there’s much to recommend: rare find beers, street-style hot dogs, and a cool, tranquil crowd that livens up for DJ sets at the weekend from the likes of London Massive and Kool & the Funk.

Państwo Miasto (B1) ul. Andersa 29, tel. 22 400 9446, open 9:00-24:00, panstwomiasto.pl Is there anything better than sitting in a café, book in hand, while summer sunshine pours through the windows? We go to Państwo to do just that, an echoy, cavernous café with a young, lively crowd that’s keen on scholastic events and political causes. Never does it feel too trendy, or too hipster – it’s a place that’s all about atmosphere and friendship.

Relaks (E9) ul. Puławska 48, open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00; Sat 9:00-19:00; Sun 9:00-18:00 Generally travelling by tram for a cup of Joe sounds excessive, but that’s exactly what you’ll be doing on discovering Relaks. Expertly prepared, right down to the foam art, the baristas here use the finest imported machines and work only with fair trade, ‘specialty’ coffee. If you have time, the drip coffees are more than worth the wait. The interiors supply a retro accent, and are lapped up by a very fashion aware crowd.

Resort ul. Bielańska 1, open Mon-Fri 11:00-2:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-2:00 The main talking point here is a design that utilizes shopping trollies and street signs to serve as chairs and tables, and a pile of second-hand books to form the bar – there’s even a sofa constructed from a

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bathtub! Themes of recycling are taken to the limit in Resort, yet for all that it never looks junky or cheap. Concerts and comedy nights keep business ticking on quieter days.

Secret Life ul. Słowackiego 15/19, tel. 507 226 552, open Mon-Thu 8:00-21:00; Fri 8:00-22:00; Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 You might already be familiar with Secret Life of Things, a fab design store on the other end of town. Now the same minds have expanded their offer to include this café, a delightful spot that opened in summer. The deckchairs outside may have gone but the hype lingers on: an eclectic design marries a Scandinavian look to an eccentric spirit, while unpasteurized beers, organic teas and a locally sourced menu do the rest.

Think Love Juices ul. Francuska 14, tel. 516 182 029, open 8:00-22:00, thinklove.pl Nutrition nut and supermodel Anna Jagodzińska reveals the secrets of her diet in this white-clad, summery-looking Saska café. As the name indicates, juice plays a massive part in that, with the rotating choice presenting a range of drinks that run from watermelon water all the way up to complex concoctions that ignore any shortcuts. The daily changing lunch deals are superb, but leave you in no doubt just why models are so skinny.

Waff-Love (E4) ul. Senatorska 28, tel. 502 635 222, open Mon-Fri 8:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-20:00, wafflove.pl Upon entering the petit premises the homey waft of sweet crispy batter hits your senses, and while the waffles are less sweet than your traditional Belgian product, after a mountain of toppings you’d be hard pushed to notice. Kiss dietary resolutions goodbye...

WakeCup Café (C1) ul. Franciszkańska 14, tel. 503 113 240, open Mon-Fri 7:00-21:00; Sat-Sun 8:00-21:00, wakecupcafe.pl A superb discovery landed in the no-man’s land that straddles New Town and Muranów. WakeCup don’t believe in taking coffee shortcuts (recommended: raspberry frappe), and have a fiendish obsession with beans from Brazil.

Also notable and noteworthy for their fruity cocktails, pastries and energetic café buzz.

Wars i Sawa (E3) ul. Dobra 14/16, tel. 796 880 822 or 793

567 125. open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-21:00 Creaking floorboards, unfinished plastering and piles of books set the tone to this ‘culture café’.

It’s exactly what you’d expect of Powiśle, and the sort of stop best enjoyed on your own with a pot of tea, a dog-eared novel and your tightest skinny jeans.

Wrzenie Świata ul. Gałczyńskiego 7 tel. 22 828 4998, open 9:00-22:00 Those with journalistic leanings love Wrzenie Świata. It’s definitely more Macbook than Moleskine, but this bookstore/ café attracts plenty of readers (and writers) to its book-lined interior. Buzzing like a cafe should, it packs out for slideshows and seminars.

Wypoczynkownia ul. Hoża 29/31, open Mon-Sat 7:30-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00, wypoczynkownia.pl While this place sounds like a Scrabble winner, its true role is as a fab neighborhood café that prides itself on its Arabicas and freshly-baked goods. Sporting a comfortably cosmopolitan style, the only improvement would be the forced confiscation of the requisite Keep Calm sign: get rid of it and the world is yours!

Znak Zapytania (E9) ul. Puławska 42, open Mon-Fri 11:00-1:00; Sat 16:00-2:00 Zap is the kind of place you wished you had next door: lively, a little hidden and carefully decorated: bricks walls, contemporary sofas and zippy graphics.

Drinks include the botanical tastes of Fentimans, homemade lemonades and artisan beers, and to go with those there’s a daily menu big on seasonal produce.

ice cream Budka z Lodami (H4) ul. Francuska 30 This innocuous wooden cabin has become a summer staple for Sunday Saska strollers. Natural ingredients and creative flavor combinations have installed it as a legend. Just brilliant.

Chmiel Café (D4) ul. Chmielna 27/31, open Sun-Thu 10:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-last guest, chmielcafe.pl Rows and rows of Belgian beers occupy the shelves, while behind the counter find pedigree treats, cakes and ice cream from the Slow Food

listings / cafés & wine bars approved Consonni brand. Forget the industrial rubbish, the ice cream produced by this lot is an absolute standout. With the outdoor terrace making its debut, it’s the ideal family solution with something for everyone.

La Maison (B3) ul. Chłodna 15 The flavors aren’t the most experimental found in Warsaw, but we’ve yet to find a better strawberry ice cream in the city: it’s stuff that makes you go ‘wow’.

Limoni Canteri 1952 (E9) various locations, inc. Dąbrowskiego 1 An artisan Italian gelato stop. The Venetian-born owner thrives on experimentation, with traditional flavors matched by the inclusion of oddities such as cucumber, beer and, even, ice cream for your dog!

Lody Prawdziwe (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 22 While the original on Świętokrzyska 30 is still alive, expect their new location to be the one that gets the crowds – big crowds. Priding themselves on the provenance of their ingredients, past picks from this artisan producer include Colombian coffee, Oreo and Madagascan vanilla. Others still swoon over their cherry choice.

Malinova (D9) Al. Niepodłegości 130 Some argue this is the best ice cream in the city, it’s certainly one of the most famous. Opened in 2001 – vintage

by Warsaw standards – there’s an old-school feel to this cult classic.

Sucre ul. Mokotowsa 12, ul. Żurawia 26, ul.

Chmielna 26, sucre.pl Nothing more than a hole-in-a-wall, and yet ever since opening last year Sucre have come to be considered the best in the trade when it comes to natural ice cream. Let the steady queue speak for itself.

wine bars Ale Wino! (E5) ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 628 3830, open Mon-Tue 10:00-22:00; Wed-Sat 10:00-24:00, www.alewino.pl At first you think you’re walking into a car park. And then, it hits you – a beautiful inner-city sanctum with wooden decking, a slanted sail shielding the sun, and bespoke, funky chairs from the esteemed Studio Rygalik. You want to dwell here for a bit longer than planned:

and there’s no harm in doing so. One of the Insider’s favorite wine bars, Ale Wino’s food is also top-notch. BEST WAWA 2014 “Wine Bar” Bristol Wine Bar (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmiescie 42/44. open 12:00-23:00 Effortlessly evoking a real sense of history, the design is a triumph with lots of polished brass and nickel, rich wood finishes and marble floors. You feel like you’ve stepped into a film. But talking points aren’t limited to the interiors alone.

The wine selection was personally overseen

by Robert Mielżyński, possibly the most esteemed wine importer in the country. And the choice is prodigious. Offering a complete cruise through the wines of the Old Continent and the New World, the collection is precisely presented from behind glass cases that line the walls.

Charlotte (D6) ul. Aleja Wyzwolenia 18 (enter from pl.

Zbawiciela), www.bistrocharlotte.com It matters not if you’re easily traumatized by the catwalk parade that is Charlotte. Open from seven on weekdays, it’s the place for a morning croissant. And if you’re armed with the latest Mac technology, all the better – join the other posers at the communal table.

Located on Warsaw’s most happening roundabout, there’s no better place to indulge a hangover with a spot of eavesdropping than inside this boulangerie/wine bar.

Hoża (D5) ul. Hoża 25a, tel. 515 037 001, open MonSat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, www.hoza.warszawa.pl You’ll probably know Hoża as the home of steak. But what is meat without wine? complementing the Argentineinspired cooking is a wine list particularly dense with reds.

Jung & Lecker (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 14, tel. 22 866 6749, open Mon-Thur 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00, www.jungilecker.pl Some think of this as a neighborhood wine bar – they’re clearly privileged, because if everyone had a Jung & Lecker next door it’d be a kind world indeed.

While the courtyard garden is a highlight, even in the sub-zero season there’s reason to swing by. Offering an intimate atmosphere and a strong menu, the finishing touch is provided by way of wines sourced directly from 15 wineries in Germany’s famed Pfalz, Rheinhessen, Rheingau and Mosel regions.

Heritage (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17, tel. 22 857 0912, open Mon-Sat 8:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-20:00 The gentrification of Zbawiciela continues with the appearance of Heritage, a place of tap wines, cobbled floors, and simple, well-thought interiors. With its crates, boxes, cans and tins, Heritage fill a binary role as a deli/wine store for an ascendant new money crowd.

Mielżyński Wine Bar (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 636 8709, open Mon-Fri 9:00-23:00; Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 11:30-17:00, www.mielzynski.pl Robert Mielżyński, a Canadian-born oenologist, awakened Warsaw’s love affair with the grape when he launched Mielżyński in 2004, and it continues to serve as the accepted benchmark to which all wine bars aspire.

Their cause is amply boosted by a fine selection of bites to accompany the superlative wine offer. Find it in a pared down warehouse that emanates casual city cool.

Mielżyński Wine Bar (G9) ul. Czerska 12, www.mielzynski.pl After three years in the pipeline Warsaw’s second outpost of Mielżyński is everything you’d expect: a concise menu that’s never too complex and an exciting wine choice that presents over 500 labels. This vibrant space promises much, not least on account of an inner terrace deck that you know is going to be the talk of this summer.

Portucale (E10) ul. Merliniego 2, tel. 22 898 0925, open 11:00-23:00, www.portucale.pl The rule here is to keep it simple. Stick to the truly amazing seafood and good house wine, both of which promise a terrific Portuguese experience. $$ Wejman ul. Zgoda 4, tel. 661 661 150, wejmanwinebar.pl The owners cooperated closely with acclaimed importer Guillaume Deliancourt to assemble a stock list dominated by Southern European – especially French – and New World wine. Try before you buy at this hotly trending wine bar.

WinKolekcja (E10) ul. Olkuska 7, www.winkolekcja.pl The selection of New World wines is exceptional, though classicists are also catered for via an extensive choice of Spanish, French and Italian wines. Their restaurant provides further reason to linger inside a design that has the routine look of a club class lounge. www.warsawinsider.pl

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nightlife NEW & NOTABLE

BAR AND BOOKS (ul. Wąski Dunaj 20, barandbooks.pl) New York-born Bar And Books mark their 25th anniversary with the opening of a Warsaw location set inside a restored townhouse by the Old Town walls. Inspired by the British colonial style, the bar’s onus is on cocktails, champagne and whisky, served in an interior that features an upper floor cigar lounge amid all the wood paneling and leather-bound tomes.

LOCAL NA MOKOTOWIE (ul. Sandomierska 13) Having enjoyed much success in Ursynów, Local inch their way a little closer to the center with the opening of a Mokotów branch. Looking to breathe energy into a corner of Warsaw not exactly blessed with bars, the August opening has already captured the imagination: find a casual, urban atmosphere inside a venue that ambitiously aims to be more than just a bar, but also something of a cultural anchor.

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bars & pubs 6 Cocktails (E5) ul. Mokotowska 57 Taking its lead from the New York fad for covert bars, the 6 adventure begins in front of a heavy arched gate. Ring the bell, await the buzz of approval and then find yourself summoned into rambling apartment that feels sultry and sensual.

Complete with a shadowy smoking lounge and a whirlpool tub in the bathroom, it’s the best secret in Warsaw. To enjoy the bespoke cocktails yourself, message them on Facebook and await your invite…

Bar Wieczorny ul. Wiśniowa 46, barwieczorny.pl Preparing for their first summer, it’s going to be one helluva’ place to visit once the weather heats up: that garden is going to get naughty! The cocktails are serious here, with top quality spirits (Vestal, Baczewski, Woodford Reserve) used with equally big name mixes (Fentimans, Big Tom, etc.). Further, you’ll find it’s the right products in the right hands – the staff really know their game.

Bazar (F1) ul. Jagiellońska 13, tel. 508 321 264, open 12:00-last guest There’s Krusovice, Bernard and Staropramen on tap, and the Czech slant is lent added meat by a series of evenings held in cahoots with the Czech Cultural Centre – it’s during boozy disco nights the party spills into a shadowy cellar with light retro hints. On ground level its raw and industrial with asphalt colors and overhead pipes. You wouldn’t expect it, but the margaritas are smashing.

Beirut (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, open daily 12:00-4:00, www.beirut.com.pl As hip as ever, Beirut has walls dusted with cult album covers, documentary posters and witty graffiti inspired by Banksy. Busy in the day, and absolutely packed at night, order unconventional beers (Noteckie, English ale, Erdinger) from androgynous staff standing behind a sandbag bar decorated with silver hand grenades and a model tank.

Berlin-Warszawa Express (D5) Most Poniatowskiego (corner of Kruczkowskiego and al. 3 Maja), open 18:00-1:00;

listings / nightlife Fri-Sat 18:00-3:00 Set up a flight of stairs, a concrete footbridge at the top links the two bars either side: Berlin and Warszawa.

It’s a Matrix moment, the red pill or the blue? Berlin’s the better, with industrial cage lights, and salvaged DDR memorabilia.

Surveying the scene, it’s all wobbly tables, sticky surfaces and tight little alcoves fitted into impossible spaces. A great dive bar, the friendly nature of Berlin gets even friendlier after a few craft brews.

Bierhalle (A1) Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), ul. Nowy Świat 64, ul. Marszałkowska 55/73, open 11:00-last guest, bierhalle.pl Having tapped their first beer six or seven years back, their microbrewery have morphed into a national phenomenon with outposts across the country. All three Warsaw locations have a cut/paste Bavarian atmosphere, hefty wooden fittings and waitresses dressed like mountain frauleins.

Bollywood Lounge (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, tel. 22 827 0283, open Sun-Thu 12:00-3:00; Fri 12:00-6:00; Sat 14:00-6:00, www.bollywoodlounge.pl Now on Nowy Świat, the team have used the opportunity to upgrade their offer: gone is that low-rent feel of old, replaced in favor of a more classy look and a slicker crowd.

What has remained constant is the energy.

Ace cocktails (recommended: Jim Ban Chili), tottering talent and a range of sheesha pipes make it a weekend must, though the big news is the completion of their downstairs club: check it out for the bright, banging beats of the Bollywood sound.

British Bulldog (D4) ul. Aleje Jerozolimskie 42, tel. 22 827 0020, open 11:00-1:00, www.bbpub.pl In terms of aesthetics it’s the most accurate replica of an English pub you’ll find. And they get a further nod for a brilliant covered terrace that’s great in all weather. Not that you’ll find many British expats in here, they’ve been boycotting the place ever since the dismissal of the original British manager. Judging by the poor standards of beer and food, you might want to follow their example. What could have become an expat legend is, in essence, a big wet plop of disappointment.

Browarmia (D3) ul. Królewska 1, tel. 22 826 5455, open daily 12:00-last guest, www.browarmia.pl A brewery first and foremost – and an

average one at that – full of pipes, valves and mysterious gauges. They still do their own brewing, but conscious of the shift towards artisan beer they’ve now also added around twenty taps to their offer. The choice is a little more pedestrian than the competition, but is nonetheless a pleasant sign of changing times. That it looks, feels and smells like a brewery makes it all the more welcome.

Bubbles (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 512 540 913, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:0024:00; Sun 12:00-18:00, bubbles.com. pl Despite sounding like a 90s small town nightclub, Bubbles is in fact a worthy place of note: a small, warm venue with a slow food menu and a design that incorporates lots of upturned crates and dusty bottles.

Champagne is the main draw here, with many labels that are exclusive to Poland. Some come with terrifying prices, but on the whole the price points are widely accessible: wine from zł. 10 and a flute of champers from zł. 29.

Cafe Kulturalna (C4) Palace of Culture, pl. Defilad 1, tel. 22 656 6281, open Mon-Sat 12:00-last guest; Sun 15:00-last guest, www.kulturalna.pl The location is unbeatable and visiting the Palace late at night is an amazing, almost mystical experience.

Ceska ul. Chmielna 35, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, ceska.pl Having promised to never return following an incident with a nincompoop waiter, we’ve done exactly the opposite… and become regulars! Views of scantily-clad shoppers wiggling down the street are one attraction, though the biggest is the Czech ‘tank’ pouring system. Order the mliko, a beer that’s all creamy froth that you can sink down in seconds.

Chmielarnia (B5) ul. Twarda 42 (basement level), tel. 22 890 77 05, open Mon-Thu 11:00-24:00; Fri 11:00-2:00; Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 12:0024:00, www.chmielarnia.waw.pl A subterranean multi-tap found in the depths of the fishing institute. Artisan beers rule the roost here (there’s 15 taps and stacks more beer in the fridge), a point underlined by a glass coffin of mainstream macro lager. While the bar gets loud and rackety, sweaty and sticky, that’s balanced out by a rotating beer offer that’s moderately priced plus a friendly,

earnest audience that’s all beer geeks and know-it-alls.

Chmielarnia Marszałkowska (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16, open Mon-Thu 11:00-24:00; Fri 11:00-2:00; Sat 12:002:00; Sun 12:00-24:00, chmielarnia.waw.pl With the tap war at its height, Chmielarnia hope to raise the stakes with their latest venture. Twelve taps and umpteen bottles comprise the offer, with a range of domestic and international players represented: among them Beavertown, Hoppin’ Frog and Fourpure. Less nerdy than their original, expect the latest Chmielarnia to hoover up bearded custom from nearby pl. Zbawiciela.

Coctail Bar Max (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 691 710 000, open daily 11:00-15:00, www.barmax. pl Can you trust a cocktail bar that can’t even spell the word? In this case, it’s a resounding yes. With its light wood touches and fruity montages Max looks bright, cheerful and fully loaded for the sun, and also comes with an alcove in the back stuffed with whisky and cigars. The cocktails are the main affair though, and here they’re extravagant efforts that resemble a tropical jungle in a miniature form. The only problem? By their very nature, cocktails aren’t concocted in two minutes flat – if it’s busy, waiting around is like Death by a Thousand Cuts.

Column Bar ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44 (Hotel Bristol), open 10:00-1:00 Just the look of Column Bar sweeps you off your feet; there’s something breathlessly classy about it, like you’ve just entered Gatsby’s ballroom. You want to order a pyramid of champagne and dance on their piano.

Behave, and order a cocktail instead. For a taste of the classics, the Column Bar is peerless. In summer, enjoy your drinks out in the beautifully tranquil courtyard.

Cuda Na Kiju (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, tel. 662 006 106, open 10:00-2:00, www.cudanakiju.pl Where it all began. Summer catches Warsaw’s original tap bar at its best, with the courtyard of the former Communist Party HQ now home to an entirely different kind of party: on occasions find food trucks and film screenings, and all other times just a massive crowd getting sloshed on 15 types of tap beer. www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / nightlife Cześć (C3) ul. Grzybowska 2 (through the side passage), tel. 505 695 512, open 16:00-last guest,2 www.czesc.waw.pl It started as a café, but now Cześć is better known as being at the forefront of the new generation of ‘quali-tap’ bars – small little places with six or so new wave beers on tap. The two owners, Piot and Kuba, take their beer seriously, so do expect plenty of new finds as well as traditional favorites from stalwarts like the Artezan and Pinta breweries. The laidback, neighborhood atmosphere is making it increasingly popular with a tight-knit circle of ex-pat drinkers.

Czeska Baszta (E4) Tower 22A, Most Poniatowskiego, open Tue-Thu, Sun 16:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 16:00-24:00; Sun 16:00-23:00, www. czeskabaszta.pl Set in one of those towers that props up Most Poniatowskiego, its surroundings look grim – at night even scary.

Bathed in a yellowish murk, it’s actually warm and welcoming, and the reason for that soon becomes apparent: everyone is drunk!

There’s 80 Czech beers to pick from, and they do more than enough to distract from the rattle and rumble of overhead trams and a swamp monster toilet.

Dandys Bar & Art Kafe (D6) ul. Piękna 15, tel. 883 588 388, open Tue-Thu 15:00-1:00; Fri-Sat 15:00-2:00; Sun 15:00-24:00, dandysbar.pl Dandys brings together the cream of Warsaw’s social scene inside a split-level bar that smacks of good

times and high living: this is a place created with ‘super sexy’ in mind. The top quality cocktails are befitting of the people and philosophy.

Elephant Belgian Pub (C1) ul. Freta 19, tel. 532 742 400, open Mon-Thu 14:00-23:00; Fri-Sun 12:00-23:00 Signposted by a jolly, dancing elephant, this Belgian pub presents its cause the moment you enter – there’s twenty or so taps laid right out in front, and to the left a fridge that’s expected to top out to cover 200 beers. The design is basic – brickwork, beer kegs and varying ephemera of the brewing trade – but it doesn’t need that much more: it’s about the beer, after all.

Gorączka Złota (D5) ul. Wilcza 29, tel. 22 625 6855, open MonFri 13:00-24:00; Sat 17:00-24:00, www.goraczka-zlota.com.pl Founded in 1996, Złota’s longevity is to be admired, even if the interiors aren’t. Small, dark and a little pungent, the interiors are rendered out of little more than varnished wood and hundreds of beer coasters. But that’s the clue! The secret of their success is down to the beer. Stocking a range of regional and craft beer (Ale Browar, Pinta, Kormoran, AltenMunster, Olbracht, etc.), this unfashionable bar has an underlying honesty that makes it a success.

Hard Rock Cafe ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700,

open daily 9:00-24:00, hardrockcafe.pl Full Throttle cocktails, lively staff and a classic rock soundtrack: the energy of HRC is hard to find fault with. And on the rare occasion there is a lull in the night, use the opportunity to sniff around memorabilia that includes a black leather number once worn

by Madonna.

Hoppiness ul. Chmielna 27/31, open 11:00-24:00 You’re in good hands here – opened under the patronage of the Pracownia brewery, this small-scale operation goes beyond merely offering the beers of its sponsor. There’s 12 taps in all, a decent fridge to geek over, an ace burger and beer-based ice cream – hooray!

Hopsters Al. Jana Pawła II 45 (enter from ul.

Nowolipki), open Mon-Thu 15:00-24:00; Fri 15:00-2:00; Sat 13:00-2:00; Sun 13:00-22:00 You get the idea they could have done a bit more with the interior, though the tendency is to overlook this. After all, any bar that goes to the trouble of fitting twenty taps deserves a bit of leeway. And fine things they are, these taps of theirs. There’s usually a couple of foreign guests on the day-to-day menu (Mikeller, Lindemans), but the main draw is undoubtedly from domestic brew houses like AleBrowar and Artezan, not to mention rising stars such as Doctor Brew and Podgórz.

Irish Pub (C2) ul. Miodowa 3, tel. 22 826 2533, open daily 11:00-last guest, www.irishpubmiodowa.pl Affecting a look that only an Irish pub can escape with – strange smells and chipped wood – this boozer is perhaps more noted for its live music and camaraderie than for anything else. There’s events practically every night, ranging from local rock acts to cool blues. If you failed the X Factor audition then do the next best thing and visit for karaoke night.

Jabeerwocky ul. Nowogrodzka 12, open Mon-Thu 13:0024:00; Fri-Sat 13:00-2:00; Sun 15:00-24:00, taproom.pl Prices go from affordable all the way up to, ‘bloody hell, how much!?’ Find a staggering choice on pump, tap and in the fridges, with the international selection accrued by true aficionados: the beers are brill, and so are some of the beards. We’re still awaiting the promised garden, so in

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listings / nightlife the meantime enjoy an appealingly coarse interior that features original tilework over 100 years old.

Kameralna (E4) ul. Foksal 11, tel. 887 878 731, open 12:00-24:00 With a militia truck outside, and interiors that feature cutlery by Społem and 70s newspapers on the walls, you’d be right to think we’ve got another venue that celebrates the past. Looking vast and comfortingly cluttered, Kameralna is both a restaurant and a nightspot – brewing their own beer, the house lagers are fine.

Karowa 31 ul. Karowa 31, open Tue 18:00-24:00; Wed 18:00-3:00; Thu 18:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 18:00-5:00, warsawbarproject.com Warsaw’s original speakeasy grants access via a retractable door disguised as a VHS collection – how cool is that!? Maze-like in layout, the retro-looking Karowa 31 unravels to reveal a series of chambers concealed in shadow, though for all that the cocktails are the real draw: masterful creations composed

by Bram, the former manager of the London Cocktail Club.

Kita Koguta (E5) ul. Krucza 6/14, tel. 512 307 284, open Mon-Thu 8:00-24:00; Fri 8:00-2:00; Sat 16:00-2:00 Free from the pompous prattery of Bar Max down the road, there are times in Kita Koguta where sitting at bar level is like watching Dexter’s Laboratory: the staff aren’t afraid to get imaginative, and that includes serving cocktails in smoking coconut husks.

Not all the experiments go as planned, but that’s part of the thrill – for a failsafe, order the Viterbo Breakfast: it looks like something that came out of a drainpipe, but it’s delicious!

Kraken Rum Bar (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, tel. 791 334 606, open daily 12:00-4:00 Named after one of the ocean’s most feared mythical creatures (the scary squid from Pirates of the Caribbean), the wood-clad Kraken features a wall of cymbals, heavy furniture and some interesting photography. While there’s some decent bottles of rum, there’s perhaps not enough to justify calling it a rum bar. The house beer rocks though.

Kufle i Kapsle (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 25, tel. 22 127 7218, open Mon-Thu 14:00-2:00; Fri 14:00-4:00; Sat

12:00-4:00; Sun 12:00-2:00, www.kufleikapsle.pl All levels of drinkers are catered for in this raw-looking space, from those ready to pay nosebleed prices for beers with spaceships on the label, right the way down to novices taking their first baby steps in the world of craft booze. Interiors are balanced with the pre-war heritage of the place, and are thick with noise, clamor and the spell of spillage. Unisex toilets, meaning there’s usually one idiotka putting a spanner in the queue code.

Kwadrat (D5) ul. Poznańska 7, tel. 790 010 088, open Mon-Fri 16:00-last guest; Sat 18:00-last guest, www.kwadrat.waw.pl Nights get blurry in Kwadrat, one of the first bars in town to spread the gospel of regional and new wave beer. Enjoy it alongside an amiable, late 20s crowd.

Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri 11:0002:00; Sat 12:00-02:00, Sun 12:00-23:00, www.legendsbar.pl Legends is slowly achieving legendary status amongst the expats and Anglophiles. Their cause is helped by touches like a segregated smoking room, proper darts board, Sky Sports and a traditional menu that’s as authentically English as the Downing Street cat. Most of all though, the success is down to the sense of community fostered over long quiz nights, shouty karaoke competitions and Presiding over it all is Graham, a seasoned expat and Everton nut.

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Lolek (A8) ul. Rokitnicka 20 (Pole Mokotowskie), tel. 22 825 6202, open daily 11:00-03:00, www.lolekpub.pl A boisterous pub with a Bavarian, bacchanal spirit and a parkcentered location. Strangers squish together on shaky benches while sausages grill over an open fire inside this classic rough-andready drinkery. Catch it at its best in summer when the outdoor seating is thronged.

Małe Piwo (D7) ul. Oleandrów 4. tel. 510 905 592, open Mon-Thu 16:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 16:00-24:00; Sun 16:00-23:00 Hands up who loves good beer? Thought so. Małe Piwo have been a sensation since opening, preempting the craft beer trend and in the process attracting huge crowds of every sub-section of the hipster community. The choice of bottles is

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listings / nightlife immense, and enjoyed in an edgy, dive bar background that’s snugger than a mouse’s waistcoat.

Miłość Kredytowa 9 ul. Kredytowa 9, open 9:00-6:00 Firstly, there’s the bar. It’s stunning: concrete slabs, a vertical wall of greenery and a DJ platform that doubles as a kitchen on weekends.

The upstairs mezzanine is the best spot for voyeurs, and it’s here that a series of rooms unravel revealing a bookstore, deli and a lumbersexual barber shop. It is ultimately the bar that is the center force though, and it’s here you’ll find one-of-a-kind bottled cocktails that use natural ingredients, not to mention the full offer from Perła.

Multitap Bla Bla ul. Nowogrodzka 22, open 14:00-2:00, blabla.com.pl Looking murky and in need of a good scrub (and that’s just the glasses), you feel Bla Bla is simply here to suck up overspill from its more high-profile neighbors. Ten taps here, usually carrying beers you know inside out. But you will find a seat and there’s a kebab shop next door.

Na Lato (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44, tel. 692 280 094, open Mon 8:00-23:00; Tue-Thu 8:00-1:00; Fri 8:00-5:00; Sat 10:00-5:00; Sun 10:00-24:00 Once derided as a hipster haunt, the twits have moved on, replaced instead by an increasingly on-trend crowd of rich young things. The cocktails are without doubt up there with the best in Wa-wa and the onset of sunshine means you can enjoy them on the expanse of greenery directly outside.

Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’ (D4) Enter from ul. Nowy Świat 26 Approximately twenty bars occupy a series of low-budget prefabricated cabins, presenting possibly the highest density of bars in the capital: in summer, it feels like one big street party.

Adding to the gentle sense of confusion comes the realization that so many bars look the same – accessed through clattery, barred doors, visitors walk into what can only be described as murk. Klaps, with its dildo beer taps and phallic walls, is probably the most well-known of the lot.

Oleandrów 3 (D6) ul. Oleandrów 3, open Sun-Thu 12:00-24:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-1:00 Exploring themes of decadence and fallen splendor, this new opening cements Oleandrów’s status as one

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of Warsaw’s rising streets. Looking dark and disheveled, this busy nightspot is already earning a name for libertine shenanigans.

The blackboard menu touts an unlikely combo of ‘hot dogs and champagne’ – watch others follow suit.

OSP Saka Kępa ul. Walecznych 74, tel. 603 103 888, open Mon-Thu 15:00-24:00; Sat 13:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-22:00, www.ospsaskakepa.pl A little on the small side, the interior features several bits of Fireman Sam detritus: helmets, goggles, a uniform and some toy fire trucks (it’s in a fully functioning fire station!).

Panorama Bar and Lounge (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 630 6306, open Mon-Sun 18:002:00, www.panoramabar.pl An elegant bar that would easily pass for the VIP room of a well-to-do club. A floor 40 location makes it great for a date: the sunset views are dazzling.

Paradox (B1) ul. Anielewicza 2, tel. 691 472 969, open Sun-Thu 10:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-2:00; Sun 10:00-23:00, www.paradox-cafe.pl Billing themselves as a ‘sci-fi / gamers / role play asylum’ this is a cradle of geeks, nerds and people who collect serial killer memorabilia. Decorated with plastic black crows, a map of Mordor and figurines of goblins, watch as oddly attired suspects engross themselves in ‘for hire’ games with names like Hobbit and Bewoulf.

Parking Bar (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 27, tel. 501 623 456 or 537 606 897, open Sun-Thu 16:00-2:00; Fri-Sat 17:00-6:00, www.parkingbar.eu It looks raw and ready, but then what did you expect from a place on the ground floor of a car park. Plentiful concrete, mesh fences and swinging car tire seats lend it unique characteristics, as do the drinks: the creative cocktails are served in small little jars. At times it feels a bit slow, but that changes on their weekend club nights.

Patera (C4) ul. Świętokrzyska 36, tel. 535 333 123, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00; Sun 11:00-23:00, www.patera. com.plPatera fill a binary role: first as an

Asian eatery, and second as a cocktail bar.

And my, what cocktails. Offering several classics, and a few modern creations, the Ginger Peach Collins became our cocktail of choice during summer 2014. The reopening of Świętokrzyska should lead a few more people through the door – they’ll like what they see.

Pies Czy Suka (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8A, tel. 22 881 83 73, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00; Sun 16:00-23:00, www.piesczysuka.com Monochrome gun metal grey colors are offset by a fashionable crowd attired in red shoes, pink trousers and blue headphones.

This clean, concrete space is speckled with plaster moldings of reindeer heads, and excels on the cocktail front. Order from an iPad menu, before settling back for cocktails made using mad scientist, molecular techniques that involve foam, vapor, beakers and other things you’d usually find in Professor Yaffle’s lab.

Piw Paw (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34 (enter from ul.

Parkingowa), tel. 534 734 500, open 24 hrs We don’t like: the sweaty toilet, strange smells and queue scrum. We do like: the 24hr opening hours, humongous fridge and 50+ taps. Seen in the light it’s a little depressing, so visit at night when Parkingowa takes on the look of an end-of-term street party.

Piw Paw na Foksal (E4) ul. Foksal 16, tel. 534 734 945, open 16:00-last guest, piwpaw.pl If the original Piw Paw was marketed as a ‘hyper tap’ then what’s their sister on Foksal? There’s 97 taps (!!) though one gets the sense its more about numbers than quality – we’ve seen Beck’s, for Pete’s sake. Getting service can be a nightmare, and while there’s a smoking room, it’s got the warmth and ambience of a night down the police station.

Plac Barcelona (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 18, tel. 501 988 768, open Sun-Thu 9:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 9:00-1:00 Those who think this area’s star has waned need look no further than Plac Barcelona, a pristine bar with a star studded clientele.

The interiors feature stark white colors and an interesting multi-level seating arrangement. Most, however, prefer to give themselves maximum exposure and do both their sipping and sitting outdoors.

listings / nightlife Plan B (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 508 316 976, open Mon-Sun 11:00-last guest. www.planb.pl Plan B is the very essence of dive Warsaw. Weekends pass by in a raucous blur, with the party spilling out under the colonnades outside – it helps to look like a DJ, but in truth everyone is welcome. The hangover from this shabby, grubby bar is traumatic.

Pociąg do Piwa ul. Dereniowa 2, tel. 501 022 890, open 14:00-last guest Jumping onto the multi-tap bandwagon is Pociąg do Piwa, a smallish locale whose one design element is a steam engine traced into the wall using bottle tops.

There’s 12 taps in all, and they primarily distribute cult Polish beers from the likes of Pinta and AleBrowar.

Polonez (D5) ul. Poznańska 24, tel. 604 942 169, open Sun-Wed 10:00-1:00; Thu 10:00-2:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-3:00 Sparse milk bar chic is set against plenty of oddities (black and white Cybulski films, a set of antlers, hordes of junk), but the cool aesthetics only tell a part of the story. This is a celebration of Poland, both old and new, with drinks that include obscure nalewki, craft local beers, bio drinks and regional tipples. The masterstroke comes in making this all feel international, contemporary and creative.

Same Krafty (D1) ul. Nowomiejska 10, tel. 22 831 98 75, open 15:00-last guest Set across two small, rugged rooms, Same Krafty gets populated by an organic combination of tourists, couples and beer enthusiasts. There’s ten taps from which to choose, and a fridge with several interesting international beers. The Old Town doesn’t have much to shout about when it comes to nightlife, so Same Krafty’s debut is more than welcome.

Sketch w Teatrze Wielkim (D2) Pl. Piłsudkiego 9, tel. 602 762 764, open 12:00-1:00, sketch.pl Here’s a multi tap bar designed with a very specific crowd in mind: glam stylists, models with sleeve tattoos and other vapid morons. Looking bold, bright and brash, this is just about the worst tap bar Warsaw has ever seen. The beer aspect is purely incidental. You get the idea this mob would be here if the pipes were hooked up to the udders of a cow – so long as milk was in fashion. Yuck.

Spiskowcy Rozkoszy (D5) ul. Żurawia 47/49, tel. 796 671 950, open Mon-Thu 16:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 16:00-1:00; Sun 16:00-23:00, www.spiskowcy.pl The ground floor is an intimate space with lots of yet-to-be-famous beers and junky, antique furniture that reminds of the Boho hangouts in Kraków. But what was a packed, little bar is now a packed, big bar with the opening of the basement: find a labyrinth of rooms and psychedelic toilets with pulsating lights – you soon wonder who spiked your drink. And oh, the drinks. Expect IPA and APA beers served from the six taps.

Syreni Śpiew ul. Szara 10A, tel. 602 773 293, open Tue-Thu 20:00-2:00; Fri-Sat 19:00-6:00, syrenispiew.pl Set in a beautifully restored piece of PRL concrete, Syreni Śpiew’s lasting popularity has proved the doubters wrong.

This is not some one season wonder, rather a place that has gone from strength to strength. Primarily known for its hefty whisky offer (which is divided into regions of Scotland, Ireland and Japan), the cocktails also stand up to scrutiny on account of their consistent quality. A genuinely unique drinking experience with cool elements of retro chic.

Syzyszka Chmielu Al. KEN 36, open Mon-Thu 16:00-24:00; Fri 16:00-2:00; Sat 15:00-2:00; Sun 15:00-24:00, pubszyszkachmielu.pl The beer scene is Ursynów is seriously hopping up. First came Pociąg Do Piwa, then Vyceska, and now this tongue twister. The 14 taps offer largely safe local options, so head to the fridge for adventurous brews from the likes of Mikeller, AleSmith and Nogne O. In an added plus, this is just about the first tap bar that realizes that some people out there like football: it’s filled with slick screens beaming the big match.

The View ul. Twarda 18, theview.pl Sat on top of the Spektrum Tower this bar/club looks set to reinvent the whole concept of going out in Warsaw. A truly world-class venture, the open-air deck on the 32nd floor offers striking views of the cityscape, first rate cocktails and an international rotation of DJs. The look is sleek and stylish.

W Oparach Absurdu ul. Ząbkowska 6, open Sun-Mon 12:002:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-4:00 Hidden under Persian rugs, velvety drapes and reclaimed antiques, some still refer to it as The Spider Bar in reference to the giant tarantula that once hung from the wall. There’s an air of louche 60s living here, and it gets weirder when bands with names like the Bum Bum Orchestra enter to play trumpets amongst vodka-tipping guests.

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listings / nightlife open Mon-Fri 11:00-last guest; Sat-Sun 9:00-last guest, www.warszawapowisle.pl The prime months for this former ticket booth arrive each summer when the deckchairs outside provide ample opportunity for the city’s young and fashionable to gather in an almost carnival-like atmosphere. Seen as a hipster Center of Power, you’ll know if you belong.

Weles (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 11, tel. 602 773 997, open Sun-Thu 17:00-2:00; Fri-Sat 17:00-4:00 A swing of the door takes visitors plunging down a blacked-out stairwell and into a basement that emerges from the darkness like a decadent Tsarist relic: glinting chandeliers glimmer over deep leather sofas, their subtle light casting a glow over an immaculate clientele comprised of city movers. Befitting the venue, the artisanal cocktails are a work of elaborate craftsmanship, and incorporate everything from elite liquors to strips of bacon and flower petals.

Zorza ul. Żurawia 6/12, open 7:00-2:00, www. zorzabistro.pl Slotted inside what was once Café 6/12, Zorza embellishes the venue’s ascetic PRL style with licks of art deco: it’s an unlikely marriage that manages to work. But with even the sun sweating this summer, do your pecking, picking, sipping and supping on an outdoor terrace set-up that encourages mingling and interaction.

clubs Capitol Theatre and Club (C3) ul. Marszałkowska 115, tel. 22 826 8570, www.clubcapitol.pl An extravagant dance space with sparkly chandeliers, regal staircases and a modern Moscow, over-the-top style. Mark the Hed Kandi events in your diary for a night to remember.

De Lite (E5) ul. Marii Konopnickiej 6, tel. 792 014 166, www.deliteclub.pl This place definitely figures highly in the ‘bubbles and beauties’ stakes. Scantily clad dates bop along sipping on martinis, flirting and dancing, while exposed brick and pipes, raw concrete and an interesting mirror setup in the bathrooms add to the futuristic, spaceship interior.

Enklawa (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 22 827 3151, open

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Wed-Sat 22:00-4:00, www.enklawa.com Forget internet dating, Enklawa is the best pick-up joint around – a classic kitschy, glitzy disco, it draws in huge crowds with a simple lineup of pop and dance hits. Still regarded as the best Wednesday night in Warsaw, it’s the place for singletons looking for a one night confidence boost.

Foksal XVIII (E4) ul. Foksal 18, open Fri-Sat 10:00-4:00 Billed as one of the top ‘rich and pretty’ clubs in the capital, Foksal features a competitive ‘look at me’ spirit and flash interiors that are all chandeliers and champagne. Cardboard animal shapes hanging from the bar inject much needed humor to this cream of the crop club. Don’t even think of trying to gain entry without first tipping a bottle of aftershave down your pants.

Level 27 Al. Jerzolimskie 123 (Millennium Building), open Tue-Sun 13:00-5:00, level27.pl Set on the 27th floor of the Millennium Building, Level 27 promises a world class clubbing experience with open air views of the city down below. In more ways than one, you’ll rarely feel closer to the stars.

Luztro (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, open Wed-Thu 22:00-10:00; Fri-Sat 24:00-14:00, www. luztro.pl Feeling naughty? Luztro enjoys a reputation for libertine behavior and illicit pharmaceuticals. Dark, grim and grotty, this after party stalwart gets going at about 4 a.m. on weekends, when troglodyte club creatures emerge zombie-like to dance way past sunrise. Jaw grinding, rib rattling electro has never felt better.

Platinium (D3) ul. Fredry 6, tel. 694 413 439, open Thu-Sat 21:00-6:00. www.platiniumclub.pl The place if you’re rich or beautiful – but preferably both. Large and spectacular you’ll need to be dressed to the nines to reap the rewards that lie inside: featuring the most eye candy per sq/m in Europe, you might not find Mr/Mrs Right, but you will find Mr/Mrs Right for Now. Sen Pszczoły ul. Grochowska 301/305, tel. 530 360 060, senpszczoly.pl Famous, infamous or a bit of both? Moving from their temporary digs in the Koneser Factory, the new-look Sen Pszczoły is every bit as murky as the previous: amid a heavy industrial background,

find partygoers enjoying a mixed bag of events that range from didgeridoo performances to full-on techno that makes fillings pop out.

gentleman’s clubs Playhouse (B3) Al. Solidarności 82A, tel. 794 007 000, open 21:00-4:00, www.playhouse.pl Not here gorilla gangsters on the door or pushy girls doing the rounds (“buy me drinky drinky”).

Instead, Playhouse models itself on the top class mega clubs such as Spearmint Rhino, and the result is a subterranean space removed from the sleaze and murk usually associated with the industry. But you want to know what the girls are like, yeah? Let the fact askmen.com voted it their favorite strip in the world speak for itself.

live music Chwila (B3) ul. Ogrodowa 31/35 Entered under a red, cabaret-style awning, Chwila is a reject factory space turned good. Furry cushions, patchwork quilts and student art vie for attention alongside iron girders and industrial leftovers inside what is becoming known as one of the top alternative music venues this side of the river. The toilet alone, papered with trillions of cool posters and magazine covers, is a reason to linger.

Klub 12/14 ul. Piwna 12/14, open 12:00-24:00, 12on14club.com Sometimes you’ve got to ask, just where are all the jazz bars? Well, at last the void has been filled with the entry of Klub 12/14 on the market. A schedule of daily evening concerts, a decent uncomplicated menu and a smart white design make it a welcome addition to the Old Town.

Pardon To Tu (C4) Pl. Grzybowski 12/16, tel. 513 191 641, open 10:00-4:00, www.pardontotu.pl Decorated in voluptuous brothel colors, the design involves mismatched seats, tilted lampshades and a relaxed arthouse look popular with creatives and other fringe dwellers. The live talent ranges from moody quartets to jazzy chanteuses, while a perfect marriage of late hours and great bottled beers helps along the enthusiastic crowd of latter day beatniks.

shopping accessories Agent Provocateur ul. Mokotowska 59, tel. 22 273 6162, www.agentprovocateur.com The boutique is stocked full of the latest collection – gorgeous lacy bras with scrumptious attention to detail, matching panties, teddies and a bunch of strappy get-ups you can only get away with if you’re very fit or very confident, but preferably both. And if that’s not enough, they’ve got sexy stockings, silk robes, perfume, satin gloves, a blindfold and nipple tassels…

SHOPPING FOR SCHOOL! ‘Back to school’ in Poland is not quite it says on the tin. Yes the kids go back on September 1st, but two hours later, after a short meetand-greet with their new teacher, there they are again at the mall with a lengthy shopping list of school supplies needed for the next day!

MIVO KIDS (mivokids.pl) The Mivo store, located in Blue City, specializes in children’s footwear. What’s not in store can be ordered from the extensive collection online. Geox, Ecco and Clarks are available at competitive prices as well as Converse and a funky collection of kids VANS! SMART SCHOOL BAG (smartschoolbag.com) The right baggage is essential to your child’s good health. Sturdy, spacious, weather-proof bags on wheels that don’t look like grandma’s shopping trolley are the criteria and ‘Smart Schoolbag’ ticks all those boxes. Starting at €79 they’re not cheap but they are ready to stand the test of a Polish Education.

EXCELLENT OFFICE (excellentoffice.pl) Despite the advance of technology the list of stationary and accessory requirements for a well-organized student remains much the same: pen, pencil, snazzy pencil case, eraser, rulers and a calculator make the shortlist followed by the bully-stabbing ‘safety’ compass! Practically everything your child needs to look and feel top of the class!

BACK TO SCHOOL GRAND BAZAR City markets are where Polish designers showcase and sell trending fashion and accessories. If your family favor original, handmade and local design then check this event on Saturday September 5th.

Hosted inside Bracka 25, for further details search them out on Facebook. (GBB)

Bath & Body Works ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00, ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 The famed American brand signals its arrival to Europe with the launch of their Warsaw branch. Now fans of the brand can experience first-hand luxurious fragrant body care, hand and home collections.

Customers can discover sophisticated fragrances, test shower gels and soaps at the sink area, and try everything from body lotions to home fragrances.

HOS&me ul. Mokotowska 63, tel. 22 625 0881, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 12:00-15:00, www.mokotowska63.com Luxury jewelry and the best in the biz. In stock: high end treasures from Nialaya, Lene Bjerre Design, Ti Sento, Christensen and Dryberg/Kern.

Impossible Project ul. Mysia 3, tel. 884 867 518, open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-18:00. The Polaroid comes back to life in Impossible Project, a place with refurbished original cameras as well as new film formula.

Mo61 ul. Mokotowska 61, tel. 601 652 593, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, mo61.pl Billed as a ‘perfume laboratory’, Mo61 is the only place in Poland that allows customers to create their own scents. Under the expert guidance of staff trained by Zygmunt Marczewski (“the best nose in Poland”!), visitors compose their www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / shopping own perfumes inside a beautifully renovated pre-war space.

Pingle Optyk ul. Hoża 40, tel. 798 025 505, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-14:00 A collection of hand-selected eyewear that is serious in terms of quality control, but entirely whimsical when it comes to design. Yes, you’ve got your ubiquitous Ray Ban classics, but you’ve also got the electric blue version. You’ve got your Chanel and YSL classics, then there are the leather-trimmed frames from Paul Smith and many more funky models straight from Paris.

Pracownia Czasu ul. Wiejska 14, pracowniaczasu.pl A true market leader with brands including Paul Picot, Graham London, Vulcain, Cuervo y Sobrinos, Ulysse Nardin and so many more.

Victoria’s Secret Beauty & Accessories ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 665 625 618, open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00, ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), tel.

22 541 4141, Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 An assortment of Victoria’s Secret Beauty products including fun and flirty fragrances, such as Bombshell, as well as the scented VS Fantasies body care range.

For that glam girl-on-the go, expect to find a wide range of Victoria’s Secret branded bags, luggage, passport covers and small leather goods to cosmetic bags, bangles and key fobs.

antiques Kolo ul. Obozowa 99, www.gieldastaroci.waw.pl What looks like a soggy tent city transforms each Sunday morning into a hopelessly addictive flea market offering wartime militaria, religious icons, chinaware, furniture from unverified periods of history, and even the occasional suit of armor. Half-junkyard, half treasure trove, it’s an experience in itself.

Kwadryga ul. Wilcza 29, www.kwadryga.com Entered through a courtyard, it’s a magnet for bibliophiles, and groans with antique books, faded photographs, yellowing maps and

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dog-eared magazines – the atmosphere is timeless. The PRL-era lifestyle magazines are an amazing insight into the past.

Prima Porta Antiquities ul. Moktowska 71, www.primaportaantiquities.com At the top end of the scale the German-run Prima Porta specialize in pieces from ancient Rome, Greece, Egypt, Mesopotamia and Asia. Formidable pieces from tiny little Egyptian clay hippos from the 12th Dynasty, all the way to one and half meter statues of Buddha from the Third Myanmar Kingdom.

fashion American Eagle Outfitters Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (C. H. Arkadia), tel. 665 625 639, ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), tel. 605645289, open Mon-Sat 10:0022:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 American Eagle brings you high-quality, on-trend clothing and accessories inspired by a denim heritage that truly expresses individual style.

Ania Kuczyńska ul. Mokotowska 61, tel. 22 622 02 76, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00 Ania Kuczyńska is becoming well known for her highly fashionable, minimalist clothing designs. The store also carries adorable baby clothes and various accessories.

Bombay Shirts ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 606 270 400, bombayshirts.com Custom-made shirts for both men and women created from a choice of over 150 fabrics: among them the finest Egyptian cotton, two-ply cottons and pure linens. They promise shirts that are ‘modern and fast-paced but buttressed with old world charm’.

EM Cashmere Boutique ul. Szczygla 8, tel. 22 826 1956, emcashmere.pl Available brands include Allude Cashmere, Annette Görtz, Studiorundholz and Sarah Pacini with 30-40% discounts on last year’s collections, and up to 70% on those of previous years. A truly beautiful find with the clothes offer supplemented with shoes and accessories.

Frank A ul. Natolińska 3, tel. 22 424 79 79, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00, www.franka.pl The interior is painfully chic

and the clothing effortlessly elegant with a minimalist edge. Stocks major brands that you can’t find anywhere else in Warsaw, from handbags from Pauric Sweeney, perfectly fashioned tees from American Vintage and ballet flats from Bloch.

Hard Rock Cafe ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, open daily 9:00-24:00, hardrockcafe.pl No wardrobe is complete without the iconic Hard Rock t-shirt! Find the Warsaw-stamped version available here, along with other extras for the all American look.

Moliera 2 Boutique ul. Moliera 2, tel, 22 827 7099, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, Sat 11:00-16:00, www.moliera2.com Brands: Alexandre Vauthier, Balmain, Beach Bunny, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Gianvito Rossi, Herve Leger, Isabel Marant, Jimmy Choo, Kenzo, Kotur, Maison Michel, Moncler, One Teaspoon, Pierre Balmain, Ralh Lauren, Simonetta Ravizza, Tod’s, Tory Burch, Valentino, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon.

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, tel. 22 622 14 16, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-17:00, www.plactrzechkrzyzy.com Brands: Christian Louboutin, Dsquared2, Fay, Gianvito Rossi, Hogan, Kenzo, Moncler, Ralph Lauren, Tod’s, Tom Ford, Valentino, Yves Salomon, Pierre Balmain, Beach Bunny, Kotur, Marc by Marc Jacobs, One Teaspoon, Simonetta Ravizza, Victoria Beckham.Kolekcje dla dzieci: Baby Dior, Dolce&Gabbana Kids, Dsquared2 Kids, Kenzo Kids, Moncler Kids, Ralph Lauren Kids, Tod’s Kids.

Ptasia 6 ul. Ptasia 6, tel. 733 874 609, ptasia6.pl A unique ladies concept store showcasing the works of both emerging and established independent Polish fashion labels such as Eva Grygo, Confashion, Horror! Horror!, Kasia Miciak and Polanka.

QπШ - Robert Kupisz ul. Mokotowska 48/204 (courtyard), tel.

506 170 801, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-14:00, www.robertkupisz.com One of Warsaw’s hottest fashion icons, and

listings / shopping a trip here soon explains why. The exclusive, handmade garments are a guaranteed head turner.

Reykjavik District ul. Burakowska 15, tel. 501 399 222, open Tue-Fri 13:00-19:00; Sat-Sun 13:00-17:00, www.reykjavikdistrict.com Chic, well-cut menswear for all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal.

Safripsti ul. Oleandrów 3 Formerly a make-up artist in London and Paris, owner Magdalena returned to Poland to open a vintage boutique. Buying wholesale – meaning prices are kept in check – her fashion store presents finds like authentic cheerleader outfits and Hawaiian shirts for summer, not to mention a great selection of denim, parkers and so forth. And how about a classic Burberry mac for zł. 200?

She’s a Riot ul. Mysia 3, shop.shesariot.com A fashionforward label for grownups – women who hover between a rock-inspired, whimsical twist on a retro Mad Men silhouette. While the online store deals principally with clothing, the new boutique location sees fashion magazines, arty books and lifestyle accessories awarded prominence.

Fashion

is an inspiring, unpretentious and highly creative fashion designer who has cultivated her own original and inimitable style since her 1992 debut. Her designs are the result of a long search for the perfect form, texture and color scheme, lending each project its own unique style: be it fashion, upholstery fabrics or accessory design.

malls & department stores Arkadia Al. Jana Pawła II 82, tel. 22 323 6767, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00, www.arkadia.com.pl Galeria KEN Center/E. Leclerc (Ursynów) ul. Ciszewskiego 15, tel. 22 389 8600, open Mon-Thur 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. www.kencenter.pl Galeria Mokotów ul. Wołoska 12, tel. 22 541 4141, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00, www.galeriamokotow.com.pl Klif House of Fashion ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4500, open Mon-Sat 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. www.klif.pl Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has everything from the excellent Alma supermarket to top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko.

Plac Unii ul. Puławska 2, tel. 22 204 0499, open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00, www.placunii.pl Warsaw’s latest mall counts Armani Jeans, Liu-Jo and Pandora amongst its upmarket tenants.

Mysia 3 ul. Mysia 3, tel. 603 767 574, open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00; Sun 12:00-18:00, www. mysia3.pl Hip department store that’s seen a few tenants come and go, yet has remained on the cutting edge in spite of it all. Set in Poland’s former censorship office, the line-up includes Scandinavian fashion in Cos, shoes from My Paris, unconventional fashion from Nenukko and more.

Vitkac Wolf Bracka Vitkac, ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7313, open Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00; Sun 11:00-18:00, www.likusconceptstore.pl Vitkac was made for with a credit card blitz in mind. Poland’s first luxury department store gathers the world’s top designers under one roof, with brands including Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton, Stella McCartney and Rick Owens.

And that’s the tip of the iceberg. Finish with dinner in the top floor Concept 13.

Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59, tel. 22 222 2200, open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00, www. zlotetarasy.pl Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Jatomi Health and Fitness Club.

Van Thorn ul. Sienna 39, tel. 22 243 7377, vanthorn.pl Bespoke and made-to-measure suits as well as custom-made shirts and a range of accessories from ties and pocket squares down to shoes and cufflinks. The attention to detail, the quality and craftsmanship are staggering.

Vintage Store ul. Dobra 56/66, tel. 501 301 742, www. vintagestore.pl Since its inception the store has grown in many ways – now, used brands like Burberry, Barbour, dresses from the ’70s, Hermes scarves, snakeskin handbags, or original Adidas sweaters from the ’60s and ’70s (the owner is an avid collector) are not an uncommon find in the shop.

Viola Śpiechowicz ul. Kolejowa 55 (Łomianki), tel. 518 920 124, open Mon-Fri 9:00-15:00, vsstore.eu/ violaspiechowicz.com Viola Spiechowicz

made to measure suits and shirts A Free Shirt

With your suit or jacker order Only in September

ul. Sienna 39 tel. 22 243 7377 www.vanthorn.pl www.warsawinsider.pl

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family activities Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. 22 596 41 00, open Tue-Fri 9:00-6:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-7:00, www.kopernik.org.pl A brilliant array of science-inspired attractions that prove as stimulating for parents as they are for the kids. Check out Galeria BZZZ, an area designated for children up to six. In order to keep numbers manageable, expect entry times to be staggered.

Girls Code Fun (girlscodefun.pl/en) I thought I’d cracked it as a parent when my daughter showed signs of reading and writing in a third language, then I met Karolina Cikowska, co-founder of Girls/Kids for Code! She politely informed me the language of the future is ‘code’. As a technophobe the conversation was foreign to me, and after reading their webpage a zillion times I realized I have more chance of mastering Polish. But the importance, particularly for girls to get involved, was loud and clear: today’s world is dominated by software.

The workshops develop an appreciation for how things work, build on self-confidence and problem solving skills, so the earlier children start the better equipped they will be to understand and even create tomorrow’s technology. ‘Kids for Code’ classes for kids 3-19 (ENG/PL) start midSeptember and the good news is you can reserve online in plain English.

Spotlight Kids (spotlightkids.pl) Spotlight Kids is an educational project dedicated to the arts, culture and philosophy. In cooperation with the MSN the program includes masterclasses with artists, creative workshops and museum/gallery trips.

Workshops commence in October for children aged 4-15 years. This was a big hit throughout the holidays.

Hangar 646 (hangar646.pl) Children with excessive energy levels should head to Hangar 646.

Located in a former airport hangar, the 2,700 sq/m of trampoline space includes a swimming pool of sponges. Children from three years old are welcome to let off steam, with instructors available to teach acrobatics and suchlike; or you can just bounce off walls! Book your slot online for best deal. (GBB)

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Mums & Tots www.mumsandtots.pl A volunteer group for mums (and dads) of all nationalities – coffee mornings, play groups, art and music classes and nights out for parents; the list is endless.

For more details, as well as their newsletter and schedule check their web.

Wilanów Golf Driving Range/ Ekberg Golf Academy ul. Vogla 19, tel. 22 424 7083, open Mon-Sun 9:00-21:00, www.golfparkspoland. pl Keen golfers (all ages) can perfect their swing at this friendly, well equipped driving range, whilst beginners can opt for professional individual lessons or beginner group programs in English or Polish. There is a weekly junior hour (5-15yrs), ladies hour and fun mini-golf course.

Zachęta Gallery Pl. Małachowskiego 3, tel. 22 556 9600, open Tue-Sun 12:00-20:00, www.zacheta. art.pl Recently undergone extensive modernization but still awaiting a café, this gallery and bookshop offer a perfect introduction to modern art. Also available are weekend workshops for children and original cultural birthday parties guided by experienced animators in a contemporary environment.

PHOTOGRAPH BY GILL BOELMAN-BURROWS

EXTRA CURRICULUR ACTIVITIES

HulaKula ul. Dobra 56/66, tel. 22 552 74 00, open Mon-Tue 12:00-24:00; Wed 12:00-1:00; Fri 12:00-3:00; Sat 10:00-4:00; Sun 10:00-24:00, www.hulakula.com.pl Bowling alley and soft indoor playground: heaven for kids and hell for grown-ups! Children love to climb, explore and slide into large ball pools.

Parents hate the lack of daylight and fast food menu.

listings / family education

priate activities. For further information and/ or to visit our school, contact: admissions@ aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00.

preschools

American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel.

22 702 85 00, www.aswarsaw.org ASW provides an American-styled educational program to students aged 4 and 5. The curriculum offers a rich, meaningful and balanced educational experience through age-appro-

The British Primary School of Wilanów ul. Hlonda 12, www.bsww.pl, tel. 781 988 000 Following the National Curriculum of England and Wales, this is the first School in Poland subject to the inspection of the UK Independent School Inspectorate.

Pupils receive British and, upon request, Polish reports/diplomas. The school follows a closed admissions policy and limits

enrollment of one nationality to below 50% of each class starting from Year 1. Currently, admission is offered to children between 2 and 9 years old for 2015/16.

The British School Early Years Centre ul. Dąbrowskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel.

22 646 7777, british@thebritishschool.pl, www.thebritishschool.pl The British School provides special classes from pre-nursery aged 30 months to 6 years old. Children at

American School of Warsaw is hosting an Open House for prospective families.

Come experience us in action!

• Tour the school • Interact with administrators, faculty and students • Receive admissions information AUGU ST

SEPT EMBE R

NOVE MBER

MARC H

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26 30 25 20 Bielawa, ul. Warszawska 202 05-520 Konstancin Jeziorna, Poland www.aswarsaw.org

September 30th

9:00–11:00

ASW open house.indd 1

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listings / family the Early Years Centre move on to our Primary and Secondary schools at Limanowskiego 15.

The Canadian School of Warsaw Preschool ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, preschool@canadianschool.pl The Canadian School of Warsaw is the only authorized school in Warsaw teaching IB PYP in English.

The preschool offers a bilingual environment for 3-6 year olds enriched with foreign languages and extra activities. Serving the Warsaw community since 2000 all children are welcome, though available space is limited. For further info, tours and school visits call or email.

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations)

Warsaw Montessori School

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ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www.warsawmontessori. edu.pl Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have 3 green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy.

Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. Call to make an appointment to tour any of the 3 schools.

Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupery ul. Nobla 16, tel. 22 616 14 99, www.ecolemontessori.pl The preschool is located in the Saska Kępa district and provides a Montessori curriculum in French for children aged from 18 months to 6 years old.

The English Playhouse ul. Pływiańska 14a & ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 22 843 9370, office open 8:00-16.00, www.theenglishplayhouse.com The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów.

The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old. For more info or to arrange a tour of the pre-school or nursery call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email: jnowak@theenglishplayhouse.com

The English Primary ul. Rzodkiweki 18, tel. 784 037 808, jnowak@tep.edu.pl An English primary

listings / family school designed to prepare children for their next steps in education and life in a friendly, caring and nurturing environment. Following the English curriculum in a truly English primary school setting we take children from the international community through the key learning stages so they achieve to their best ability through a fun learning experience.

The International Preschool of Warsaw ul. Kalatowki 24, tel. 22 843 0964, ipw. edu.pl IPW is located in a residential area of Mokotów, within walking distance of Królikarnia as well as both tram and metro lines. Children from 2.5 to 6 years old are welcome. English is the language spoken and breakfast, lunch and snacks are provided during the day. Children also have the opportunity to participate in gymnastics, music, art and drama classes. IPW serves the international community and prepares children for international education.

Maple Tree Montessori ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/ Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, www.mapletreemontessori.pl Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum GIVE supported by a Music & Art program, with a

TION

natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). Find them located in the Wilanów district of Warsaw, in a house safely nestled into the end of a quiet street.

schools American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, www.aswarsaw.org ASW is a premier college-preparatory international school that offers a PK-12 curriculum, including the IB Diploma Program in Grades 11 and 12. Students are inspired and challenged every day by experienced and dedicated teachers, who provide enriching learning opportunities in a world class facility. For further information and/or to visit our school contact: admissions@aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00.

The Canadian School of Warsaw Elementary School ul. Bełska 7, tel.

692 411 573, admission@canadian-school. pl, www.canadian-school.pl The Canadian School of Warsaw is the only authorized school in Warsaw teaching IB PYP in English. The Primary School offers bilingual education for 6-11 year olds. Highly qualified, international staff, challenging materials and a friendly atmosphere provide an optimal setting for the highest standard of education.

Extra-curricular activities include visual arts, designing classes, ceramics/pottery, art studio, music lessons (piano, guitar, choir), sports (capoeira, karate, judo, soccer, swimming, gymnastics), languages (English, Polish, French, Spanish, Italian, German) and more.

The Canadian School of Warsaw Middle School ul. Olimpijska 11, tel. 885 420 044 / 885 620 066, secretary.olimpijska@canadian-school.pl, www.canadian-school.pl Provides a continuThe British ation of PREIB education for 11-15 year olds.

School International staff, cultural events and chalul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, lenging student initiatives create a perfect open 8:00-16:00, british@thebritishschool. learning and creative thinking environment. pl, www.thebritishschool.pl Top-ranking For further info, tours and school visits call or private school in Warsaw providing outstandemail. Also home to the Non-Public PsychoYOUR CHILD ing education based A on PREMIUM the British system.EDUCAPedagogical Counseling Centre ‘Olimpia’ (tel.

GIVE YOUR CHILD A PREMIUM EDUCATION

www.thebritishschool.pl

founded in 1992

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listings / family 885 620 066) which examines the level of mental, emotional, auditory and visual-motor functions’ development, and conducts individual and group pedagogical therapy, as well as individual psychotherapy..

Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupery ul. Nobla 16, tel. 22 616 14 99, www.saintexupery.pl Established in 1994, the Antoine de Saint-Exupery preschool and school provides a French curriculum for children aged from 3 to eleven years old in a welcoming family atmosphere. Highly qualified native Frenchspeaking teachers.

Warsaw Montessori School ul. Szwoleżerów 4, tel. 22 841 3908, sylvia@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www. warsawmontessori.edu.pl Focuses on the Montessori curriculum with an education based on the integration of conceptual learning and real-life experiences.

cafes Figa z Makiem (Saska Kępa) ul. Walecznych 64, tel. 512 939 001, open Mon-Sat 10.30-19:00, Sun 11:00-19:00, www.figazmakiem.edu.pl One of the latest and greatest addition to the growing roster of Warsaw kid cafes. Do some

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well selected designer kids shopping while waiting, or simply browse the books and toys section while your little ones romp in the kids room.

Fiku Miku ul. Zwycięzców 32, tel. 692 448 112, www. fikumikucafe.pl This small, jolly cafe is dedicated to children. The focus is on films and creative workshops. Designer Polish toys are on sale alongside a healthy menu, and fresh cake selection. Check FB for updates as this café closes for private birthday parties.

Kalimba ul. Mierosławskiego 19, tel. 22 839 75 60 or 501 183 953, open Mon-Fri 9:30-20:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-20:00, www.kalimba.pl Kalimba café caters to Warsaw’s boho-chic community. Relax with long latte’s or nibble healthy snacks whilst kids climb a spiral staircase to the indoor tree house, role-play in the kitchen area or join creative workshops. The shop, with original handmade toys is tempting, but it’s the pick’n’mix candy that’s unavoidable!

Kolonia ul. Łęczycka (corner of Ładysława), tel. 661 064 944 or 605 084 804, open 9:00-20:00, www.kolonia-ochota.pl Not just an excellent cafe, Kolonia is aslo equipped with a garden/ playground. Kolonia is the most kid-friendly (and pet-friendly) place in the area, offering fresh daily specials and a staff that always welcomes you with a smile.

shops Muppetshop ul. Kazimierzowska 43, tel.

532 689 212, muppetshop. pl An innovative concept store that offers a wide range of brands and products targeted at young people – babies, juniors, teenagers. The portfolio includes full-service for expecting parents as well as complete interior projects (from 0 to the first-owned apartment). On top of that expect a wealth of other design products (kitchen accessories, decorations, toys, bags, books etc.) from carefully selected brands such as Quax, Lodger, Chispum, Shnuggle, Collegien, Jielde, Gubi and many more besides. It all serves to make it the No. 1 spot for your youngsters shopping.

Pieluszkarnia ul. Topiel 12, ul. Mandalińskiego 25, tel. 22 713 8275, www.pieluszkarnia.pl This small chain specializes in eco-friendly toys and clothing designed and produced in Poland.

Smyk Multiple stores, tel. 22 462 7250, www. smyk.pl Smyk is Poland’s answer to Mothercare; from bottle sterilizing kits to pencil cases, early learning toys to Disney classics and a wide range of seasonal clothing, this store will take you from childbirth to high school!

health & beauty gyms Fitness Centre at the Radisson SAS Centrum Hotel ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888 Smallish but well-regarded gym with swimming pool, sauna, gym, and group classes inside one of Warsaw’s top five stars.

Fitness Centre at the Sheraton Hotel ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6701, www.sheraton. com/warsaw The Sheraton spa features sauna, steam room and massage, while the gym comes with LCD-fitted running and cycling machines, and a dedicated cardio section. Personal training available, as are group classes covering pilates, yoga, aerobics and even ski conditioning.

EXPAT SPORTS CLUBS & TEAMS FROGS & CO. While it originated as an expat team, Warsaw’s only social rugby club welcomes all: supporters, players, young, old, men and women. The rugby is taken seriously, and so too is the social side. For details see: warsawfrogs.com HASH HOUSE HARRIERS Billing themselves as ‘the drinking club with a running problem’, the Warsaw chapter of the Hash House Harriers meets every couple of weeks and welcomes runners and walkers of every level. Look for them on Facebook for further details.

HOBBY KICKER Expat football team that meets each week on the 3G pitches at Centrum Futbolu Warszawianka (ul. Merliniego 2). All nationalities and levels of skill are welcome. Search for Hobby Kicker – Warsaw on Facebook for details.

WARSAW INTERNATIONAL TRIATHLON CLUB Serving the needs of the athletic community, the WITC is open to all interested in the disciplines of swimming, cycling and running. For more details click to: warsawtriclub.com WARSAW EAGLES (pictured) The local gridiron team is the most ‘serious’ organization of the lot, competing in a national league in front of half-decent crowds.

Check their Facebook for details if you fancy a trial, or simply content yourself with watching them – and their cheerleaders – in action at the Polonia stadium.

Holmes Place Energy Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (C.H. Arkadia), ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), www.holmesplace.pl Making top-flight gym facilities available to the masses, the Holmes Place Energy brand offers high standard equipment, personal training and group classes. Six month membership available for approx. zł. 200 per month, though prices are subject to change.

For latest details enquire direct.

Holmes Place Premium ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel), tel.

22 851 0563, ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), tel. 22 313 1222, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), tel. 519 436 841, www.holmesplace.pl Those who use it claim the Hilton branch is the best gym in Poland.

Set on two floors, highlights include a 25 meter pool, sauna and steam room and a spacious gym packed with the most modern equipment. Also on-site, a varied timetable of classes, excellent personal trainers and a Green Coffee relaxation area. There’s two more ‘premium’ gyms to choose from, including the one in the Marriott immortalized after Obama’s recent work out there.

Little Gym ul. Bruzdowa 56, tel. 22 842 0728, www.thelittlegym.pl Targeted at children, expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-to-child ratio, original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. Englishspeaking, as well. www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / health & beauty McFit ul. Świętokrzyska 3 (corner of Nowy Świat), tel. 22 313 1400, mcfit.com The budget European chain signals its arrival to Poland with a 2,000 sq/m studio that utilizes the latest technology as well as ‘cyber training’ programs. Open 24/7, with membership from zł. 89 per month.

Pure Jatomi Fitness Platinum Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59 (floor 3, opposite McDonald’s), tel. 22 379 7777, open Mon-Fri 6:00-22:30; Sat 8:00-22:30; Sun 8:00-21:00, www. jatomifitness.pl The largest and fastest growing fitness chain in Poland currently has 35 locations and 117,000 members across the country. All clubs have new generation machines, innovative forms of group activities (Booiaka, Hot Yoga, Pure Pump, Pure Fire and Wah Gwan Dancehall) and professional personal trainers schooled in nutrition and the healthy lifestyle.

Pure Jatomi Fitness Platinum Zodiak ul. Widok 26, tel. 22 100 3400, open 24hrs, www.jatomifitness.pl Poland’s fastest growing fitness chain has been recognized for excellence after being named SCF Leisure & Fitness Retailer of the Year 2014. Other Pure Jatomi clubs in Warsaw include: Blue City, Galeria Renova, Sadyba Best Mall, Promenada and Targówek.

RiverView Wellness Centre ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental), tel. 22 328 86 40, www.riverview.com.pl Top-class facilities and equipment, private instructors and small classes. The view from the highest pool in Europe offers a glorious panorama of the city. Annual prices from zł. 4,200 (access from Mon-Fri 6 a.m. to 5 p.m.), zł. 5,760 (all times), and zł. 8,350 for Diamond Membership (includes two personal training sessions per month, a complimentary weekend at the InterContinental, restaurant discounts, etc.).

dental clinics ArtDental ul. Łucka 18, tel. 22 654 3006, artdental.pl Well-known among expats, ArtDental’s service is widely praised for its honest service and moderate prices. English speaking and moderately priced.

Aster Med ul. Św. Bonifacego 92, tel. 22 858 0354,

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www.astermed.pl Aster Med, while billing itself as a center of orthodontics and implantology, is really the full service with 14 dentists and 4 orthodontists and implant surgeons.

EuroDental Various locations, tel. 22 380 7000, eurodental.pl English-speaking dentists on request. Lacking the ‘boutique’ charm of some of Warsaw’s more modish clinics, the service here is both efficient and moderately priced.

Malo Clinic Domaniewska 37 (3rd floor), tel. 22 393 6333, www.maloclinics.com/polska This world class dental clinic incorporates five dental offices, an operating room, two recovery rooms and a state-of-the-art diagnostic center.

Odent ul. Nowoursynowska 145E (entry from ul.

Rosoła) & ul. Duchnicka 3, tel. 22 405 4430, odent.pl Dubbed ‘the clinic with a heart’, Odent’s personal approach is complimented by expert staff and the latest and most advanced treatments and equipment.

English-speaking service also available.

medical clinics Damian Medical Center Various locations, see website for details: damian.pl Established in 1994, Damian offer a wide range of medical services in their hospital and five outpatient clinics. English spoken widely.

Medicover Various locations, see website for details: medicover.pl Hugely popular amongst ex-pats, Medicover offer a wide range of membership schemes for both private and corporate clients. The jewel in their crown is a state-of-the-art hospital in the Wilanów district.

Therapy Warsaw ul. Filtrowa 69/13, tel. 601 532 319, www.therapywarsaw.com English-speaking therapy for couples and individuals dealing with relationships, eating disorders, trauma, stress and much more besides.

spas & salons

0 Barberian Academy & Barber Shop ul. Emilii Plater 25 & ul. Koszykowa 9 Away from the black clouds of metrosexuality, Barberian is where men gather to celebrate being men. Lauded as the local champion of male grooming, this stand out has a rebel chic layout and barbers who are experts in their field.

Bartek Janusz Salon ul. Mokotowska 19 / ul. Wilcza 72, tel. 22 828 4444, www.bartekjanusz.pl The staff here takes a no-nonsense approach to cutting hair – it goes along with the minimalist chic interiors of the place. According to one Insider: “I’ve never left a salon feeling so happy with my hair.”

Bio.Sis Nail Spa ul. Mokotowska 26, tel. 22 621 1404. A top spot for a classic manicure or pedicure – they also do lots of complicated things with gels and other hi-tech nail discoveries. Also on Elektoralna 24.

BodyClinic ul. Oboźna 9 lok. 104, tel. 22 826 1160 or 784 677 618, open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat 9:00-15:00, www.bodyclinic.pl Thorough body care for everyone. From the usual options to a huge variety of massages and some very exotic treatments, BodyClinic covers all the bases.

Dotyk SPA ul. Biały Kamień 3, tel. 22 898 7272, open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Sat 9:00-18:00, www.dotykspa.pl Probably the only place in Warsaw where you’ll get a facial yoga session. Going futher east, treat yourself to Japanese, Polynesian or Indian massage.

Fiuu Fiuu Day Spa ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 629 2414. A wonderful quick fix salon that makes use of the latest Ericson products and other top brands. Regarded as one of the top ladies day spas in the country.

Hair a Porter ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Warsaw Hotel, level -1), tel. 22 558 1555, open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat 9:00-17:00, www. hair-a-porter.pl A staunch favorite among the ex-pat crowd, Hair a Porter offer the ultimate hair experience utilizing talented staff and top-quality products.

listings / health & beauty Haircology ul. Rozbrat 44A, tel. 669 780 669, open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-last guest, www.haircology.pl An upmarket ecologically minded hairdresser that eschews such things as synthetic fragrances, silicon and preservatives.

pl Here, the staff is adept and certified at a range of innovative treatments: from the non-invasive Bella Contour treatment to the Body Tite and Body Jet treatments that use the latest surgical procedures to slim and tighten. For summer the right spa/salon/ clinic is key. La Perla’s all three in one!

The Hermit Barber Shop pl. Bankowy 1, thehermit.pl You know those London barber shops you see in 1930s film reels? That’s Hermit, a thrilling throwback right down to the barber’s pole and checkered flooring. But don’t be fooled, this is as upmarket as it gets, with top quality products and even some 16-year-old whisky with which to pair the experience.

La Plata ul. Wielicka 42, tel. 517 576 667, laplataspa.pl Manual and mechanized massage in a relaxed space inspired by Buddhist philosophy. Treatments include herbal stamp Thai massage and hot coconut oil massage amongst others.

Izar Repechage ul. Moliera 1, tel. 604 209 900 or 22 827 7195, open Mon-Fri 8:00-20:00; Sat 8:0014:00, www.repechage.net.pl A gorgeous city spa which a range of treatments for the whole body.

Komiks ul. Radna 12, tel. 881 436 056, komiks.waw. pl You know those weird haircuts that people like David Bowie and Lady Gaga have?

Well, here’s the place to make that ultimate fashion statement and get one yourself.

Henna art, manicure / pedicure also offered.

La Perla multiple locations inc. Łowicka 21B/1, Wilcza 22A, Hilton Hotel, klinikalaperla.

Le Spa ul. Mokotowska 55, tel. 22 622 9428, open Mon-Fri 9:00-21:00, Sat 9:00-16:00.

This little island of peace and beauty takes you light-years away from the bustle of Warsaw.

Pardon My French ul. Belwederska 32, tel. 22 240 6290, pardonmyfrench.pl The equipment here is state-of-the art, particularly the massage chairs for indulgent pedicures. While gel tips and all that hybrid stuff is all the rage now, it might be more prudent to get a classic mani/pedi to avoid beauty emergencies when you’re drifting in the middle of the Mediterranean on P. Diddy’s yacht.

The Pedicure Place ul. Pokorna 2, lok. u11, tel. 22 241 3000

or 505 828 688, www.pedicure-place.pl A luxury pedi/manicure clinic with room for 10. All the latest OPI varnishes and over 200 colors guarantee you’ll find the latest in styling and nail care.

Rostowski ul. Koszykowa 58, rostowskibarbershop.pl A true celebration of the vintage barber shop, Rostowski have the ambiance nailed to a tee thanks to a crew that’s ready for banter and an interior replete with jack-up chairs, glinting zinc and restored floor tiles.

Retro Day Spa Al. Ujazdowskie 18/11, no. 311, tel. 22 622 03 69, www.retrodayspa.pl Royally indulgent interiors hark back to a different century, though the treatments are all hi-tech and include packages for pregnant women among the variety of beauty offers.

Studio Jej i Jego ul. Wiertnicza 93A, tel. 22 885 0085, open Mon-Fri 9:00-21:00; Sat 9:00-19:00, www. jejijego.pl Hair and beauty treatments for men and women – inc. nail care, massage, facial and body treatments.

You & You Maciej Wróblewski ul. Grzybowska 61 (Galeria Platinum Towers), tel. 606 994 226, youandyou.eu Poland’s premier hair stylist is Maciej Wróblewski, and his flagship salon fuses a personal approach with professional styling. Disappointments are unheard of.

Odent was established to ensure the highest level of service on the dental map of Warsaw. We offer flexible hours, cutting edge technology and two branches in convenient locations in Żoliborz and Ursynów.

Scope of services: • Orthodontics • Teeth Whitening • Cutting-edge prosthetics

• Dental surgery and maxillofacial implants • Conservative treatment, cosmetic dentistry

• Treatment of children • Root canal treatment of teeth using traditional microscopic • X-ray lab

Żoliborz: ul. Duchnicka 3 bud.4, entrance A • Ursynów: Nowoursynowska 145 E (entrance from ul. Rosoła), www.odent.pl, tel. 22 405 44 30

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in the city

Originally established by an 18th century nobleman who named it after his wife, Maria, it didn’t take long for the Mariensztat district to veer from its intended look. By the outbreak of WWII the area had become an unnavigable confusion of tangled streets: pimps, prostitutes and punch-ups were its calling card. After the war, its near total destruction gave town planners the chance to reboot from scratch. This they did with gusto, creating a prototype settlement based on a Socialist Realist template. Warsaw’s first post-war housing project opened amid much fanfare in 1948, with architect Zygmunt Stepiński’s design incorporating playgrounds, schools and other community-minded infrastructure.

Seen as a major propaganda coup, its breakneck completion was largely due to truly Herculean construction work – it’s said some buildings took three days to finish. Unsurprisingly, this slice of Workers’ Paradise was exploited frequently in film, and was the backdrop to Poland’s first color movie: a comedy titled Adventure in Mariensztat. While the pink pastel colors have faded, many of the original details remain as they were: among them, quirky murals and mosaics (check the chirpy cat on ul. Sowia), a fountain fringed by three stone children, and a statue of a hen-clasping woman – that’s a reference to the area’s previous guise as a food market.

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PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

CITY PROWL: MARIENSZTAT

listings / in the city VISITORS accomodation 5-Star Hotels

Bristol Hotel ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1000, bristol@luxurycollection. com, www.hotelbristolwarsaw.pl

Westin Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, www.westin.pl

4-Star Hotels

Radisson Blu Sobieski pl. Zawiszy 1, tel. 22 579 1000, www.sobieski.com.pl Mecure Warszawa Centrum ul. Złota 48/54, tel. 22 697 3999, www.mercure.com

Mercure Grand Warszawa ul. Krucza 28, tel. 22 583 2100, www.mercure.com Courtyard by Marriott Hotel (Airport) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 0100, www.warszawacourtyard.pl Novotel Warszawa Centrum ul. Marszałkowska 94/98, tel. 22 596 0000, www.novotel.com, www.accorhotels.com

H15 Boutique ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 553 8700, info@h15ab.com, www.h15ab.com Hilton Warsaw ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555 / 800 44 11 482, www.hilton.com InterContinental ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com Mamaison Le Régina Hotel Warsaw ul. Kościelna 12, tel. 22 531 6000, www. mamaison.com Marriott Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 6306, www.warsawmarriott.com Regent Warsaw Hotel ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, reservations@regent-warsaw.com, www.regent-warsaw.com The Rialto Boutique Hotel ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8700, www.rialto.pl Sheraton ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6100, www.sheraton.pl Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-warsaw

Sofitel Warsaw Victoria ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8011, www.sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com

Fluent Polish? impossible!

POLISH FOR FOREIGNERS

intensive, regular and weekend courses

AT YOUR PLACE or at our school

with this issue

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till September 30th for individual classes

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listings / in the city RESIDENTS relocation companies

Move One Relocations ul. Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 8160, www.moveonerelo.com Also immigration assistance, fine art shipping, pet transport and consulting services.

jumpers. Larger items like bikes, suitcases can also be left with them.

pets

Bone Pet Club ul. Jedności 118, tel. 507 144 044, petclub.pl Dogs, cats, rabbits, rodents, birds and many other pets are welcomed inside this ‘hotel and spa’ designed exclusively for their use.

Facilities include grooming, lodging, pool, pet taxis and socialization classes. All pet sitters speak fluent English.

ChopinPASS The Fryderyk Chopin Institute, together with CityInfo, have launched a direct connection between Warsaw and Żelazowa Wola as part of an initiative called ChopinPASS. This package includes admission to the Chopin Museum and to the birthplace of Fryderyk Chopin in Żelazowa Wola, as well as direct transportation between these two institutions. Priced at zł. 99, visitors can purchase the pass at PKiN, the Chopin Museum as well as at: chopinpass.com

Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. 22 596 4100, kopernik.org.pl Interactive, witty IN JANUARY E-LEARNING FOR FREE! and surprising, Copernicus allows visitors to Contact us for more details. experience an earthquake, blast recyclable objects into space and become a mystery cracking detective.

Relo Planet ul. Lwowska 5, tel. 22 658 1958, reloplanet. com International and domestic removals, transport and logistics solutions including office and individual moves, diplomatic posts, small shipments, storage and artwork.

polish for foreigners

storage

Klub Dialogu Y JANUAR ul. OrdynackaIN13/5, ING E-LEARN ! tel. 664 788 004, E E FOR FR www.klubdialogu.pl www.klubdialogu.pl Contact us tails. de info@klubdialogu.pl for more for Outstanding programs tel. 664 788 004 foreigners living in Poland offer a variety of courses aimed at every level. Using over ten years of experience, the leaning process becomes an adventure at Klub Dialogu..

Wiecej Miejsca Tel. 733 002 014, www.wiecejmiejsca.pl A new storage service that will even go so far as to pick up your items for you and transporting them to their guarded warehouse.

They’ll also the supply the storage bins which typically fit 90 books, 100 t-shirts, 25

museums

POLISH LANGUAGE SCHOOL FOR FOREIGNERS TAILOR-MADE individual and minigroup courses - intensive - regular - weekend at the school or at your place First Lesson Free Free conversation classes

CSW ul. Jazdów 2, csw.art.pl Situated in a baroque-style castle the center hosts artists from all over the world. The on-site bookshop is of particular interest for artists and intellectuals.

Dom Spotkań z Historią ul. Karowa 20, dsh.waw.pl The History Meeting House wins points for frequently excellent exhibitions that cover topics such as ‘rebuilding Warsaw’ and ‘Socialist Realist architecture.’ It won’t take longer than twenty minutes to peruse whatever exhibition is on, but it’s still a very worthwhile diversion and one of the city’s top secrets.

The Heritage Interpretation Center ul. Brzozowa 11-13, mhw.pl Beginning with a gigantic tapestry of Warsaw circa 1873, this little known venue tells the complex story of Old Town’s reconstruction. Walking over a glass floor, beneath which lies smashed masonry and columns recovered from the ruins, a series of then-and-now slides and pictures document Old Town’s annihilation.

If the first section about Warsaw’s physical elimination is poignant, then the others do a fabulous job of sharing the optimism and alacrity that followed.

The Fryderyk Chopin Museum in Warsaw Ostrogski Palace, ul. Okólnik 1, chopin. museum Recognized as one of the most hi-tech museums in Europe, computer chip tickets allow visitors the chance to personal-

100 Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2015

listings / in the city ize the museum experience as never before.

Over 5,000 objects are present, among them Chopin’s pocket watch, his last piano, a lock of hair and even his death mask.

Invisible Exhibition Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, niewidzialna.pl Nothing challenges the sense of sight more than a total lack of it. Confused? Head to the Invisible Exhibition to learn first-hand the challenges faced by the blind. This includes everything from crossing the road to ordering a drink in a bar.

Museum of Life Under Communism ul. Glucha, tel. 606 225 525, adventurewarsaw.com Run by the excellent Adventure Warsaw tour guide company, the Museum of Communist Life brings together aspects of communist life through dioramas that present typical living quarters of the time and a milk bar. Displays are numerous and quirky, and include a restored Saturator machine, a collection of commie hoovers, not to mention medals from the owner’s own family. A must see!

Polin - Museum of the History of Polish Jews ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl Composed of eight galleries, each covers a different stage of local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day. Covering 4,000 sq/m, highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec synagogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical interwar Jewish Warsaw street.

Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw ul. Pańska 3, artmuseum.pl The first museum of modern art in Warsaw, still fighting for a proper location, bravely manages to provide visitors with a display of contemporary Polish and international art.

Museum of Technology Palace of Culture, pl. Defilad 1, muzeumtechniki.warszawa.pl Following a maze-like route in the Palace of Culture, there’s curios aplenty: a Viennese calculator dating from 1898 that’s still in working order; a glowing ‘glass lady’ that lights up to demonstrate the inner workings of the body; communist era sports cars; a WWII Enigma machine. More pertinent to the younger generation, there’s a selection of vintage phones and laptop computers that hipsters would give their life for.

National Museum Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented.

The Neon Museum ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum. org This amazing project brings together the neon lights that once illuminated the city.

Among the collection are 35 landmark signs, many of which date from the 60s and 70s.

Palmiry National Memorial Museum Palmiry, palmiry.mhw.pl An excellent multimedia exhibition set next to a cemetery

holding the graves of 1,700 Poles executed in the first years of Nazi occupation. The museum tells their forgotten story, with archival video footage complimented by exhumed exhibits and plenty of background info dealing with the siege and subsequent occupation of Warsaw.

The Royal Castle in Warsaw Pl. Zamkowy 4, zamek-krolewski.pl Meticulously restored after WWII, highlights inside include the lavishly restored 18th century royal apartments with 22 paintings by Bernardo Bellotto (known as Canaletto), the Senators’ Chamber in which the Constitution of the Third of May was signed, the biggest collection of oriental rugs in Europe in the tin-roofed palace and two remarkable Rembrandt paintings.

Warsaw Rising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl Exhibits range from a full-size replica of a Liberator plane, to a sewer beneath the cinema screen and a slice of bread preserved from 1944. Don’t miss the ‘City of Ruins’, a five minute 3D film which takes you on an aerial journey over devastated Warsaw. For panoramic views of Warsaw check the view tower.

Zachęta National Art Gallery Pl. Małachowskiego 3, zacheta.art.pl Probably the most famous gallery in Poland, this Zachęta has a thrilling, and at times controversial repertoire that makes it a must for modern art buffs.

w W a r s a www.city-tour.com.pl

Yellow Double-Decker Bus

Invites you to experience a panoramic tour of tourist attractions of the capital of Poland, Warsaw, in a relaxing and comfortable way.

Traveling over the course of approximately 1,5 hour, a double-decker bus will take you past many beautiful and interesting places of Warsaw, such as its interesting districts, palaces and churches, monuments and museums, parks and historical cemeteries, as well as the Jewish historical sites.

A GPS 12 language audio-guide, will give explanations and accompany you to make your ride a more adventurous, exciting and an unforgettable one.

Excellent Hop on Hop off and one trip service operates every day all year round.

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Line approved by municipal authorities.

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LOOKING BACK

Kings of the Underground

W

hen I came to Warsaw for the first time in the mid-90s and asked people to name famous Brits, many would rightly mention Benny Hill (probably really thinking about Hill’s Angels), Shakin’ Stevens (33 UK top 40 hits and his conviction for drink driving still years away) and Margaret Thatcher, who famously bought some cheese for her husband Dennis from Hala Mirowska in 1988 with the transformation-defining words, “Dennis likes cheese”. Other worthy mentions were received by Prince Charles, who picked up a piece of litter in the Tatras to the whole nation’s embarrassment, and John Lennon, who has a street named after him near Łazienki.

What surprised me greatly was that nobody mentioned the British 19th century engineering family / team comprised of William Lindley and his sons William Heerlein and Joseph who designed and built Warsaw’s sewage and water supply system: still in operation today, they were designated as being a Monument of History by President Komorowski in 2012!

William Lindley was a prolific civil engineer in the second half of the nineteenth century, building railways, gas streetlighting stations, sewage systems and water supply systems in Hamburg, Prague, Warsaw, St. Petersburg and many other cities in between. In 1876-78 he designed Warsaw’s sewage and water supply system, which has ever since been called

104 Warsaw Insider | SEPTEMBER 2015

the Lindley Filters. The actual building work was supervised by his two sons William Heerlein and Joseph Lindley and included a network of sewer tunnels many kilometres in length that were famously used by Home Army insurgents in the Warsaw Uprising as they were the only way the fighters could move around the city and communicate with each other. The conditions in the tunnels at that time were depicted brilliantly by Krzysztof Kieślowski in his film Kanał.

The whole system represented a civilisational leap for the people of Warsaw as it provided them with a sufficient supply of clean, treated water. During the building, great emphasis was placed on details and the use of high-quality materials. The filters are occasionally open to visitors and anyone lucky enough to get a ticket will be struck by their uniform beauty and the quality of the work. Another part of the Lindley Filters is the River Pump Station on the Wisła’s left bank, which using a system of suction pumps drew water out of the Wisła and sent it to the filters to be treated.

The suction pumps are known as Lindley’s dragons and due to the river’s historical low level at present, some of them can actually be seen above water level. In recognition of their work, the Lindleys have a street named after them running north from the filters, while William Heerlein Lindley has a splendid statue and bench in his honour in the New Town made up of pumps, tubes and even running water.

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

This month we look back at the 19th century British family whose lasting local legacy reverberates to this day… BY STUART DOWELL

Always something new Tables: +48 694 413 439 platinium@platiniumclub.pl 6, Fredy Street, Warsaw www.platiniumclub.pl /platiniumclubpl Door selection Dress code: casual elegant