Warsaw Insider July 2015 #227

Exploring SKRA

Sculpture Garden page 20

Warsaw

Travel: Off-Grid Polska page 24

Moving?

page 26

July 07 (227)

2015

INDEKS 334901 ISSN:1643-1723

price zł.10

(VAT 8% included)

ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER BALMAIN CASADEI CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN GIANVITO ROSSI HERVE LEGER ISABEL MARANT KENZO KOTUR MAISON MICHEL ONE TEASPOON RALPH LAUREN SIMONETTA RAVIZZA TOD’S TORY BURCH VALENTINO VICTORIA BECKHAM YVES SALOMON

Moliera 2 tel.: 228277099, www.Moliera2.com

JULY 2015 Editor-in-chief Alex Webber

insider@warsawinsider.pl Art Director Kevin Demaria insider@warsawinsider.pl Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com

ropean city that does it quite like Warsaw. Take SKRA, that massive decaying complex of communist concrete – you walk around it in awe, with a sense of almost morbid curiosity. At times, tiptoeing on the disintegrating concrete, it feels like you’ve accidentally stepped onto the set of Escape From New York. But what staggers me is this isn’t some remote corner of Warsaw that exists only on the map, this is the city center – the skyscrapers that bristle against the clouds are within touching distance. However, that such ruins exist slap, bang in the center is in itself nothing special: the real absurdity is that, somewhere in the wreckage, has emerged one of the highlights of the summer: the Piknik Warszawski. The sheer contradictions of it all are everything I love about Warsaw and more. Not surprisingly then, that’s our anchor feature this issue. But for those who don’t quite share the same enthusiasm as me for derelict stadiums we’ve also got plenty to offer: a peek inside one of Warsaw’s most charming embassies, a sculpture safari, and an outdoors escapade involving sausages and skateboards. Enjoy!

INFRONT

Opener 7 News 8 Artisanal 10 Embassy 12

FEATURES

Beer-muda Triangle 18 SKRA 20 Królikarnia 24 Travel 26

2

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2015

Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

LISTINGS

Restaurants 46 Cafes & Wine Bars 74 Nightlife 78 Shopping 85 Family 88 Health & Beauty 93 In the City 96

REVIEWS

SAM Bajgle 30 Mango 31 Sticky Fingers 31 Thaisty 32 Hoppiness 34 Ale Wino 35

Papu 36 Karowa 31 35

PARTNER NEWS

The latest marketplace news from the Warsaw Insider’s friends and advertisers… 37

INBACK

Classifieds 101 Map 102 Looking Back 104

Contributors: Gill Boelman-Burrows Stuart Dowell Maria Mileńko Michał Miszkurka Ed Wight Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com ey Account Manager K A. Julita Pryzmont jpryzmont@valkea.com ey Account Manager K Adam Fogler afogler@valkea.com Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com Subscription 12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland.

Orders can be placed through: insider@warsawinsider.pl Printed by Zakład Poligraficzny TECHGRAF Tel. (17) 225-28-69 VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies.

All information ©2015 Warsaw Insider.

on the cover The picnic season is on us, and we’ve got the story behind the best one in Warsaw! See p. 20.

(Illustration by Michał Miszkurka)

PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT

I can’t think of another Eu-

CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN MEN DSQUARED2 FAY GIANVITO ROSSI MEN KENZO MONCLER ONE TEASPOON RALPH LAUREN SIMONETTA RAVIZZA TOD’S TOM FORD TORY BURCH VALENTINO VICTORIA BECKHAM YVES SALOMON DOLCE & GABBANA KIDS DSQUARED2 KIDS KENZO KIDS MONCLER KIDS RALPH LAUREN KIDS TOD’S KIDS

this month...

CONCERT

side the busy program.

Every Sunday, 12:00 & 16:00 @ Chopin Statue, Łazienki Park Listen to some of Poland’s top talents – young and old – recite works from Chopin’s oeuvre in the rose-edged gardens of Łazienki Park. The Sunday concerts run each summer and attract thousands.

MUSIC

Chopin in the Park

COMEDY

Improv Sunday’s Every Sun, 20:00 @ Cafe Niespodzianka, ul. Marszałkowska 7 A theatrical English-language performance group with a focus on improvised comedy. They say: “we’re always looking for talented people to join us on stage.”

For info see: improve.pl

FESTIVAL

Jazz in the Old Town

One to Watch Michael Chapman & Mike Cooper These legends of free jazz join together for what’s guaranteed to be a night to remember at the inimitable Pardon To Tu. 21 July, Pardon, To Tu, pl. Grzybowski 12/16

Every Sat @ Pl. Zamkowy Running each Saturday throughout the summer, the 21st edition of Jazz in the Old Town will bring together a number of international artists to perform for free in the Rynek and Pl. Zamkowy.

Attracting audiences of up to 4,000 people, artists booked for July include the Christian McBride Trio, Charnett Moffett’s Nettwork, and the Shai Maestro Trio.

For further info, see: jazznastarowce.pl Free admission

FILM

Filmowa Stolica Throughout Jul @ various locations A series of open air film screenings in scenic locations across the capital: among them Wilanów Beach, the roof garden of the University Library and a number of parks. The repertoire is as diverse as the locations – keep an eye out for Goldfinger!

For more info, check: facebook.com/filmowastolica

FILM

4

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2015

For details, see: kinolab.art.pl

Summer Gardens Festival Throughout Jul @ Royal Castle, Pl. Zamkowy Film screenings, concerts and operatic performances will be held pretty much every day inside the courtyard of the Royal Castle. The inaugural concert takes place on July 1st at 7 p.m., with the festival concluding on July 30th.

For details, see: ogrodymuzyczne.pl

CONCERT

Quiet Zone Music Festival Jul 4 & 5 @ Łazienki Park This festival returns for a third year running, with a series of weekend concerts covering a varied range of genres: jazz, classical and ‘traditional’.

The German Music Weekend at the start of July wraps up this year’s festival.

For more info, check: strefaciszyfestival.pl

FESTIVAL

23rd Street Art Festival Jul 3-5, @ various locations The festival showcases abstract, often hilarious, street theater plays courtesy of troupes from the Czech Republic, Spain, Belgium and Poland. The festival aims to integrate art within the everyday landscape of the city, and as such you can expect events to take place in parks, subway passageways, squares and other public spaces.

For more info, check: sztukaulicy.pl

CONCERT

Motorhead 6 Jul, 20:00 @ Torwar, ul. Łazienkowska 6 Lemmy & Co. arrive in Warsaw celebrating Motorhead’s 40th anniversary. Their 22nd studio album, Bad Magic, is due for release this August, and new material from it is expected to get an outing during this tour.

Tickets from zł. 210 @ eventim.pl

Kino.Lab

SKATING

Throughout Jul @ CSW, ul. Jazdów 2 International arthouse film screenings and concerts held in the courtyard of Ujazdowski Castle. Related workshops and seminars will be held to go along-

Jul 9 & 30 Join thousands of roller bladers as they skate about Warsaw following a 18km route. Starting at 21:00, usually by the

Night Skating

Copernicus Monument on Krakowskie Przedmieście, the mass skate usually concludes at round about 23:00.

MEDIA PATRONAGE

For details see: nightskating.waw.pl

FESTIVAL

Warsaw Summer Jazz Days Jul 9-12 @ Soho Factory, ul. Mińska 25 July is definitely the Jazz Month of Warsaw, with the highlight being the Summer Jazz Days festival, dating all the way back to the 90s. Performers this year include the Giovanni Guidi Trio, the Jason Marsalis Jazz Quartet, and Sly & Robbier meet Nils Petter Molvaer.

For details, see: warsawsummerjazzdays.pl

FOOD

Żarcie Na Kółkach Jul 11 & 12, 12:00 @ Pl. Defilad 1 The biggest food truck meeting of the year will be held in the shadow of the Palace of Culture & Science. The title of Best Food Truck will be decided by a panel from Gazeta Wyborcza, and we’re also told to expect public polls as well as entertainment laid on by the organizers.

FASHION

Summer Fashion in Warsaw Jul 11, 13:00 @ La Playa, Wybrzeże Helskie 1/5 Over 50 Polish independent fashion designers will be using the opportunity to show off their summer collections.

For more info, check: laplaya.pl

CONCERT

AC/DC

25 Jul @ National Stadium, Al. Poniatowskiego 1 With 200 million worldwide album sales under their belt, tickets are expected to go like gold dust for their Warsaw appearance. The set list will comprise of their greatest hits, not to mention material from their 2014 album Rock or Bust.

Tickets from zł. 209 @ livenation.pl

FAIR

Warsaw Record Fair 25 Jul, 14:00 @ Hybrydy, ul. Złota 7 Thousands of LPs and CDs on sale, including several of vintage variety, as well as record paraphernalia such as needles, brushes, etc.

BEZ CENZURA – FILMS BANNED BY THE CENTRAL COMMITTEE From July 5 Kino KC, ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, www.kinokc.pl

The second edition of this festival presents 10 films screened over a two month period in the courtyard of the former Communist Party HQ. Among these will be It Was Jazz (5 July, 9.30 p.m.) which pays tribute to the underground bands that played illegal ‘black American music’ during Stalinist times, as well as Long Night (12 July), Devil (19 July) and Fern Flower (26 July).

If the weather is bad then screenings will shift indoors. While the films will be shown in their original language (i.e. Polish), this promises to be an intriguing glimpse into another era.

‘SZCZEBRZESZYN: THE CAPITAL OF POLISH LANGUAGE’ FESTIVAL Aug 8 to Aug 16

The first edition of the ‘Szczebrzeszyn: the Capital of Polish Language’ festival will take place this August thanks to the efforts of the Warsaw-based Czuły Barbarzyńca foundation. The idea behind the festival is to create an annual cultural event that drives new partnerships between public and private organizations, allowing cultural entrepreneurs to reach broader audiences and facilitate the growth of new local companies and enterprises.

The cultural heritage of Szczebrzeszyn, its proximity to the country’s border and its name, famous for being a centuries-old tongue-twister, carry an unprecedented potential - this festival aims to draw on those unique values.

The most prominent figures in Polish culture have been invited, including writers, poets, journalists, translators, artists, as well as linguists and academics. The varied program runs from workshops and lectures, through to competitions and tournaments, all the way to meetings with authors, theatre performances, concerts, poetry evenings and even book fairs.

Amongst others, those booked to appear this year include: Wiesław Myśliwski, Eustachy Rylski, Ryszard Krynicki, Marek Bieńczyk, prof. Jerzy Bralczyk, Mariusz Czubaj, Grażyna Plebanek, Maja Komorowska, Adam Zamoyski, Mariusz Bonaszewski, Przemysław Bluszcz, Katarzyna Herman, Redbad Klijnstra and Adam Woronowicz.

Free admission

www.warsawinsider.pl

5

We invite you to our second location

Restaurant DomPolski ul. Belwederska 18 a Warszawa tel; 22 840 50 60 ; 22 840 50 15 e-mail. belwederska@restauracjadompolski.pl www.restauracjadompolski.pl

in

What’s hot, what’s not: the faces and stories trending around town PRAGA’S BEARS IN NUMBERS!

1952 The year…

The bear pen on al. Solidarności was first opened

700

Square meters

The size of the concrete enclosure the three bears are kept in

396 Bears…

Have been raised on the island since its inception

35 Years

The average life expectancy of the bears

33

Years old

The age of Tatra, the oldest current inhabitant LOCAL

ILLUSTRATION BY MARIA MILEŃKO

Un-Bear-Lievable!

A man who attacked one of the bears at Warsaw Zoo after climbing into its pen on Solidarności was later found at a city center hospital suffering from arm injuries. The oddball 32-year-old who hasn’t been named was spotted by a horrified passer-by scaling the enclosure before running up to the female bear named Sabina. Captured on camera by a stunned witness, the man, who was barefoot and wearing shorts, was snapped with his arm inside the animal’s mouth. Other photos then show the 440lb bear apparently trying to bite him and him responding with his fists. The man then fled leaving a trail of blood.

Maria Krakowiak, Head of Predatory Animals at the zoo, said: “The enclosure is heavily ringed off and no one in their right mind would try and get in there. What his thinking was, we have no idea – he survived but we don’t know where he went.” Police launched a manhunt and found the man four days later recovering at a local hospital. He has refused to elaborate on his actions though eyewitnesses claim he had been acting erratically and was either under the influence of alcohol or drugs. Giving him paws for thought, he now faces a fine of up to 1,000zl for provoking the animal. (EW)

15 Years

The amount of time Sabina previously spent locked in a 6 sq/m cage

8

Km / per day

The amount of territory a bear in the wild would usually cover

1

Dead body…

Once thrown into the bear enclosure, apparently for ‘disposal’ www.warsawinsider.pl

7

inFront

news CITY

Chasing Rainbows

TRANSPORTATION

Bridging The Gap

It’s been announced that Pl. Zbawiciela’s controversial rainbow will be moved next year to another part of the city. Designed by artist Julita Wójcik, the installation has divided public opinion since it was unveiled in 2012. Provoking hostility from religious groups and the far right, the rainbow has been vandalized numerous times due to its message of liberalism, most famously during the Independence Day riots of 2013. A vote in July will decide its new location.

Plans have been revealed for a new bridge connecting the Wawer district with Wilanów. The 1.5 kilometer crossing would be Warsaw’s southernmost bridge, and would also include cycle lanes. Work is expected to begin next year, with construction slated for completion in 2020. The news comes shortly after it was announced that Most Łazienkowski will be reopened at the end of October following a mysterious blaze earlier in the year.

Polish Shorts

One man’s love of cheap, super-strength lager has landed him a two year jail sentence after DNA on cans left at various crime scenes was matched to him. Burglar Michał Gut, originally from Poland, is believed to have stolen around GBP 80,000 worth of goods during his London crime spree. Police caught up with the thief after cans of Okocim Mocne were discovered at two separate homes.

A Polish couple were deported from Turkey following an all-day drinking session that culminated in the wife parading naked around the poolside after her husband fell asleep. On being woken by staff the man flew into a jealous rage and attacked onlookers. The lively couple were eventually subdued with tear gas, though have since protested their innocence claiming that their drinks had been spiked.

ART

Don’t Miss The Boat

A giant ‘paper boat’ has returned to the Wisła after making its debut last year. Created by Marek Sułka, his project aims to forge a link between art and recreation. Built from fiberglass, the 200 kg object has been plastered with newspaper cuttings, creating the impression of an enormous paper boat. Moored between the Poniatowski and Średnicowy bridges, Warsaw’s first floating artwork has been designed with a little hatchway through which passing kayakers can leave a message in a bottle.

8

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2015

PHOTOGRAPHS FROM TOP SHUTTERSTOCK, WIKICOMMONS, FACEBOOK.COM/WISLAWAWA

Director Brendan Foley has disclosed plans to film a big-budget blockbuster based around the life of Wojtek the Bear. Adopted in WWII by the Polish II Corps, the bear famously mucked in by carrying ammunition during the Battle of Monte Cassino. Fond of cigarettes, alcohol and wrestling, the solider bear was eventually retired to Edinburgh Zoo following the end of the war.

inFront

artisanal moving onto ones targeted at professionals. When I finally moved back to Poland I made them for a few friends and family and the reaction was really positive. People kept saying I should try make them for a living – well why not I thought. My friend Paweł had the cash and business experience so we started Sucre. The macaroons have been really successful, but they remain a niche market, so last year we decided to add ice cream to our portfolio.

Go on…

We took ice cream courses in Italy, found people to develop the strategy and bought the right machines. Our first venue opened off Pl. Zbawiciela last June – one day it was a travel agency, the next we’d taken out the window, drew up a sign and were ready for business. It’s been a phenomenon ever since.

What’s the most important stage of the production process?

Checking the weather! Really, that’s the first thing we do when producing our ice cream. It has a huge impact on demand, so we need to work out how much we need and then produce the right amount.

Sucre’s Mikołaj Paszkowski gives us the inside scoop on Warsaw’s finest natural ice cream…

Introduce natural ice cream…

You’re going to find additives, stabilizers, emulsifiers and all other kinds of chemical substances in supermarket ice cream. In fact, even most ice cream parlors use them. We wanted to avoid that which meant searching out the right recipes, ingredients and technology. Away from the technical side, natural ice cream doesn’t last anywhere near as long as the other stuff because it lacks all of these artificial extras. That means we have to sell what we make – and quick!

Do you have a favorite location?

Our ice cream is the same everywhere, but I’d say the one off pl. Zbawiciela is my favorite – you get so many interesting people up there, we’ve even served the former president. It’s busy from 10 in the morning till midnight, but even so it’s the one all of our employees want to work at.

How did Sucre come about?

I was working in market research in London for six years and I remember once a colleague from our Paris office came in with a box of macaroons. It was the moment that changed my life! After that I found myself spending Sucre a fortune on macaroons so figured, well, why not learn to make them myself. First I attended amateur courses before Mokotowsa 12, Żurawia 26 & Chmielna 26

10

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2015

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

License To Chill

What do you think of all the weird ice creams we’re seeing in Warsaw?

We like to play around with unusual flavors ourselves, but the most important thing is always the taste. We made Guinness ice cream for St. Patrick’s Day and while it was fine it wasn’t anything amazing – but it’s not good enough for an ice cream to be interesting, it has to be perfect, so you could say we learned an important lesson from that. I read a great book by an Australian gelato maker: experimentation is interesting, he wrote, but would you want more than one scoop – that’s the real test of a good ice cream.

Thai Thai restaurant, situated on Pl. Teatralny 3, offers only the most authentic tastes of Thailand. All of our exquisite courses are composed by combining traditional flavors with original ingredients.

The elegant gold-black interior provides discreet comfort for business meetings, social events and romantic dinners for two.

Our chef has created his own unique and original style of cooking, with numerous special ingredients playing an important role in the cuisine:

this includes fish, seafood, coconut milk and aromatic spices such as kaffir leaves, ginger, lemongrass, lime, coriander and chili.

Among others our regular guests include representatives from the Thai Embassy in Poland.

Warsaw: Pl. Teatralny 2,

tel. 601 81 82 83, info@thaithai. waw.pl, www.thaithai.pl

Sopot: ul. Bohater贸w Monte Cassino 63, tel. (58) 551 11 00, info@thaithai.waw.pl, www.thaithai.pl

inFront

embassy

All Roads Lead To... Romania

With more and more embassies resembling fortified car parks, the Insider visits a classic of bygone times: the Romanian Embassy… BY ALEX WEBBER | PHOTOS: KEVIN DEMARIA

T

here’s something about them that fascinates me: raised on a diet of Graham Greene novels, I can’t pass an embassy without checking my pace a little and pausing to consider what secrets lie behind the gates. Of course in Bristol, where I grew up, you don’t get many foreign ministries, so when I first landed

12

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2015

in Warsaw I was thrilled to discover I’d inadvertently moved into the heart of the diplomatic district.

In those days the British mission was based in a sumptuous wedding cake of a palace, and an on-site bar was open to all us humble subjects of the Queen – all you had to do was ring the buzzer before exchanging money for

The first

Fuddruckers in Poland!

(Wola Park Shopping Centre) Górczewska 124, level +2

Real American Restaurant World’s Greatest Hamburgers 100% Fresh food facebook.com/fuddruckerspolska

inFront

embassy

a chit that allowed you to buy drinks for the rest of the night.

It wasn’t quite the den of Cold War chicanery I’d expected, but the crisps were ace and the beer was subsidized. Since then the Brits have long since relocated to a custom-built HQ and so, unfortunately, have many other nations. With more and more embassies looking like slit-windowed blocks of concrete, that mysterious glamour that first enraptured me has dissipated. Yet while they’re fewer in number, architectural gems still exist: take the Romanian Embassy.

Situated at ul. Chopina 10, facing the charming sunken garden that is the Dolina Szwajczarska park, it’s everything an embassy should be: fronted by shaded colonnades, intricate latticework and a big, heavy door that’s both grand

14

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2015

and glorious. With its honey-colored stonework and neatly trimmed shield of shrubs, entering through the gate you’re left in no doubt that this is no longer Warsaw.

Diplomatic relations between Romania and Poland were initiated in 1919, with the original embassy located on ul.

Frascati. Numerous moves followed until the realities of war forced the embassy to close in 1940. Ties were revived in peacetime, though the widespread annihilation of Warsaw meant that suitable real estate was gold dust. As a stop-gap measure well over a dozen embassies took quarters in the Polonia Palace Hotel, and the Romanians were amongst them.

This was purely temporary, and in 1949 work began on the current property on Chopina. Designed by architect

inFront

embassy

Duiliu Marcu, his renderings were inspired by the Romanian architecture of the 16th century. In a city increasingly drawn towards homogenization and standardization, the magic of Marcu’s work resonates as loudly today as it must have done when the project was first completed.

But if the exterior feels a little imposing the interior is less so. Having patiently listened to our pleas for a look around, the Insider has been granted an audience with First Secretary Catalin Radoi and Bogdan Ionescu, program coordinator of the cultural institute, and they are on hand to act as our guides. Surprisingly light inside, we are taken through marble clad interiors up to the first floor where the principal reception halls are located. Much of the decorations have been here since Day 1, with the embellishments celebrating Romania’s rich folk heritage: handwoven tapestries and oil paintings of rural scenes.

“The embassy was built for the times,” says Ionescu, “so you can definitely say the interior has austerity in mind.”

The corridors we walk down are quieter than anticipated, but that wasn’t always the case. “Back in the old days,” remarks Radoi, “you’d have found representatives from the national airline, the car company Dacia and many more working here – but now, beyond embassy employees, it’s just the Cultural Institute here.”

This means around 20 people in all, with the staff looking after the interests of the Romanian nationals based

16

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2015

in Poland. “There’s 2,500 officially registered with us,” says Radoi, “though the true number is probably closer to 5,000.” Whilst the biggest concentration of Romanians is found in the capital, Kraków and Wrocław also boast small but vibrant communities. Elsewhere, the region of Lubelskie is home to 60 or ethnic Romanians with distant ties to the area of Bucovina.

That Romanian cultural life continues to flourish – despite the lack of a single Romanian church, school or even restaurant – is largely thanks to the endeavors of the Cultural Institute (icr.ro/varsovia). Organizing everything from exhibitions and film screenings to live cooking shows and theater performances, their nationwide efforts have helped maintain a buoyant spirit in the community, not to mention nurture links with the native population.

As our traipse around the corridors of power comes to its conclusion it does so outside, in a tranquil courtyard garden featuring outsized decorative pots, a kiln and tall trees shooting into the sky. For reasons of security everything bar everything was imported from Romania when the embassy was under construction, and that included the young seedlings for the trees. As they sway gently in the wind you’d give a penny for their thoughts – what stories could they tell? View them yourself by peering through the fence on ul. Armanda Calinescu – itself named after a former Romanian Prime Minister assassinated in 1939.

PUB CRAWL

The Beer-muda Triangle

Phones fail, compasses flounder and people vanish: filled with some of the best booze the city has to offer, good luck surviving Warsaw’s ‘Beer-Muda Triangle’…

ILLUSTRATION BY MARIA MILEŃKO

Chmiel Café ul. Chmielna 27/31, chmielcafe.pl The most sophisticated of this bunch, those harboring suspicions of entering anywhere with the word café in its name have this to consider: 100+ Belgian beers. That means all the big stars right the way down to relative obscurities.

In-depth investigation is required, and best conducted while basking on their terrace.

Hoppiness ul. Chmielna 27/31 You’re in good hands here – opened under the patronage of the Pracownia brewery, this small-scale operation goes beyond merely offering the beers of its sponsor. There’s 12 taps in all, a decent fridge (that, unlike some, isn’t hidden from view) and an ace burger – hooray!

Ceska ul. Chmielna 35 Having promised to never return following an incident with a waiter, we’ve done exactly the opposite… and become regulars! Views of scantilyclad shoppers wiggling down the street are one attraction, though the biggest is the Czech ‘tank’ pouring system.

Order the mliko, a beer that’s all creamy froth that you can sink down in seconds.

18

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2015

Multitap Bla Bla ul. Nowogrodzka 22, blabla.com.pl Looking murky and in need of a good scrub (and that’s just the glasses), you feel Bla Bla is simply here to suck up overspill from its more high-profile neighbors. Ten taps here, usually carrying beers you know inside out. But you will find a seat and there’s a kebab shop next door.

Cuda Na Kiju ul. Nowy Świat 6/12 Where it all began. Summer catches Warsaw’s original tap bar at its best, with the courtyard of the former Communist Party HQ now home to an entirely different kind of party: on occasions find food trucks and film screenings, and at all other times just a massive crowd getting sloshed on 15 types of tap beer.

Jabeerwocky ul. Nowogrodzka 12, taproom.pl Prices go from affordable all the way up to, ‘bloody hell, how much!?’ Find a staggering choice on pump, tap and in the fridges, with the international selection accrued by true aficionados: the beers are brill, and so are some of the beards. We’re still awaiting the promised garden, so in the meantime enjoy an appealingly coarse interior that features original tilework that’s over 100 years old.

Piw Paw ul. Żurawia 32/34 (enter from Parkingowa) We don’t like: the sweaty toilet, strange smells and queue scrum. We do like: the 24hr opening hours, humongous fridge and 50+ taps. Seen in the light it’s a little depressing, so visit at night when Parkingowa takes on the look of an end-of-term street party.

Bibenda ul. Nowogrodzka 10, bibenda.pl You can’t accuse Bibenda of being obsessive hop boffins, but you can trust them to sniff out a good beer. Six taps deal drinks from local market leaders such as Artezan and Widawa, and they’re largely enjoyed by an affable audience that fills the gap between hipster and new money.

Kufle i Kapsle ul. Nowogrodzka 25, kufleikapsle.pl All levels of drinkers are catered for in this raw-looking space, from those ready to pay nosebleed prices for beers with spaceships on the label, right the way down to novices taking their first baby steps in the world of craft booze. The toilets are unisex, meaning there’s usually one idiotka putting a spanner in the queue code.

www.warsawinsider.pl

19

RECREATION SKRA

20

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2015

Skra-tching the Surface

On the one hand, an emblem of modern Warsaw, on the other, a graveyard of communist memories: time to explore the SKRA sports complex!

BY ALEX WEBBER | PHOTOS BY ED WIGHT

T

here’s perfect and there’s too perfect. Look at Łazienki. Beautiful, isn’t it. But stray onto the lawns and you’ll find yourself at best, yelled at, and at worst, fed to the peacocks. You’ve got to ask, what’s the point in visiting a park if you’re only allowed to look at the grass? Then there’s places like Pole Mokotowskie – a park not just for the people, but also their dogs, Frisbees, rollerblades and longboards: basically, you’re allowed to enjoy yourself.

That’s never been truer than this year. Launched in May, the Piknik Warszawski project has caught the imagination of the public in a way no-one could have dreamed.

Held each Sunday, weather permitting, at the Iskra club on Wawelska 5, the event has tapped into Warsaw’s new mania for ‘doing things together’. While the whole initiative

takes meticulous planning, it’s the fun-loving spontaneity that is the most apparent: this is a place of DJs and deckchairs, food stalls and hammocks. Of course the queues can snake a bit, but such is the mood that nobody minds.

In fact, with none of the sleaze and pressure of a nightclub, it’s the Insider’s favorite place to strike up some banter with a mysterious stranger.

With all the yoga mums and beardy guys, there’s definitely a heavy middle class accent to the ‘picnic’, which makes the location all the more incongruous. Set around a repurposed water pump facility, a swathe of disheveled greenery cuts Iskra off from the rest of Pole Mokotowskie.

Creeping through a hole in the fence (there’s a couple on ul. Ondraszka) fledgling treasure hunters will find the remnants of a vast swimming complex that was built in the 70s. Crunching over broken glass, loose vegetation lashing your face, one is pulled into an alien world where nothing feels real.

Spanning seven acres, the pools were cursed from the start. Plans for them were originally formulated in the early ’60s, yet they were only completed in 1973. ‘Swimming season is already at its peak,’ moans an archived article in Stolica magazine, ‘but the pools still aren’t ready – a lack of skilled tilers has been blamed, and even appeals in the media haven’t reaped results.’ Regardless of setbacks, the www.warsawinsider.pl

21

RECREATION SKRA

network of four open-air swimming pools retain a special place in the hearts of the locals: urban exploration forums are filled with reminisces from people who learned to swim here, stories of nervous first dates and assorted rites of passage.

Clicking through pictures taken during the area’s heyday, the contrast between then and now is hard to believe.

This is particularly true of the focal point, a disintegrating water slide coated in graffiti. As we muse over the scribbles (“Bungo Rulez” and “Punx Not Dead”) we’re close enough to the picnic to be momentarily distracted by the sound of modern Warsaw living for today.

The political changes of 1989 signaled the end of the line for the swimming baths, with dramatic cuts in state funding meaning it was a matter of time till they faced-up to closure. The nearby SKRA stadium has fared better, but not by much. Opened in 1953 as a 35,000 capacity speedway track, its role in Polish sporting history is well-documented: in 1969 the country’s first ‘tartan’ running track was added, and SKRA subsequently became a breeding ground for the nation’s top athletes. Among them was pole vaulter Władysław Kozakiewicz – a familiar name amongst all patriots, Kozakiewicz famously caused an international storm with an ‘up yours’ gesture directed towards a hostile Russian crowd during his gold medal winning performance

22

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2015

As we muse over the scribbles we’re close enough to the picnic to be distracted by the sound of modern Warsaw living for today... at the 1980 Moscow Olympics.

Today mind, the stadium’s operating capacity is down to 58%. Refurbishment plans that would have seen it used a training ground for Euro 2012 never saw light, and it’s now over 20 years since repairs were carried out. The distinctions between this and Warsaw’s football stadiums (yes, even Polonia!) are acute. Walking around the perimeter we stumble upon a tramp who has turned one of the former exits into his home. Viewing us as boorish intruders, he continues to dry his underwear on an improvised washing line.

Frustratingly, this could all be so different. Irish property developer Global Partners have made repeated attempts to lease the property and revive it from the brink. One such pitch made in 2008 envisioned a flock of 200-meter skyscrapers complimenting an aqua-park, sports museum, restored parkland and a state-of-the-art stadium holding 15,000. The city, on their part, have refused to play ball, with the whole palaver being played out in the courts. As the lawyers make their money, SKRA slowly dies…

PHOTOGRAPH PAP

www.warsawinsider.pl

23

ART SCULPTURE PARK

(3.)

THE RUB OF THE GREEN Królikarnia has always been good fun: built in the 18th century for Augustus II, its primary function was to serve as a hunting base, though according to some it was actually little more than ‘a high class brothel’. Now it operates as a gallery complete with an unusual sculpture park whose rulebook specifically states that ‘it’s allowed to hug the statues’…

(1.)

(2.)

24

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2015

Changing Of Traffic Movement (1) Zor Foundation By placing a mirror in the middle, this installation creates the feeling that you’re see-sawing alone. Apparently that’s enough to arouse ‘unbridled joy’. But be careful! ‘Please see-saw with caution’, warns a nearby placard.

(5.)

Heads (2) Xawery Dunikowski In the 20s Dunikowski was commissioned to sculpt the heads of Poland’s kings and bards. Following the war – and detainment in Auschwitz – he continued the series, adding scientists, writers and lefty activists like Felix Dzerzhinsky.

The Family (3)

Geoffrey Armstrong Make of this what you will.

The accompanying plaque comes with a simple statement from the artist: “You can so easily destroy a piece of material by forcing it do so something it does not want to be.”

Ladybirds (4) NeSpoon Street artist NeSpoon began her artistic journey by hiding cute ladybirds around the city.

She says: “I was looking for something that little children could discover in a small corner, smile and start to look for other things stuck on the walls.”

(4.)

Lion (5) Maria Papa Rostowska A decorated war hero who fought in the 1944 Uprising, Rostowska later became one of Poland’s eminent sculptors. This cheerfullooking work features spirally eyes that symbolize eternal change.

www.warsawinsider.pl

25

TRAVEL OFF-GRID

26

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2015

On Lake Time

Sausages, skateboards, specters and sunsets: the Insider goes off-grid in search of adventure at Farma Krzyczki‌

BY ALEX WEBBER | PHOTOS BY ED WIGHT

www.warsawinsider.pl

27

TRAVEL OFF-GRID

T

he thing about telling a lie is that it’ll always return to haunt you; that’s why today I’m on an electric skateboard hurtling headlong towards a line of trees. You see not long back, I’m not sure why, I was boasting to the photographer that I had once been a skateboarding champion. I figured he’d never find out the truth. How was I to guess that a few weeks later it would be one of the activities available at Farma Krzyczki. “Go on then,” he challenges, “let’s see your tricks.” The rest is history. As are a couple of trees.

A little less than 60 kilometers north of Warsaw, just outside the town of Nasielsk, sits Krzyczki. By car you’ll make it in an hour, though it’s an equally simple trip by train. The one nasty bombshell is the taxi journey from the station to the farm: it’s not so much the deathtrap car – which has, no lies this time, been patched up with duct tape and elastic bands – but the fee. A five kilometer journey sees us wave goodbye both to a 50 złoty note and a very happy driver. “Don’t drink it all at once,” we shout as he roars away trailing sparks and smoke.

If we’re momentarily deflated our spirits soar once we study our surrounds. On the web Farma Krzyczki looks impressive enough. In reality it’s so much more. Covering 17 hectares of rolling greenery it’s a Garden of Eden for outdoorsy types. We recruit Olek, the events manager, to show us around, and this he does with relish. The place is big on adrenaline pumping activities – off-road racing, quad biking and kayaking – but having already

28

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2015

assessed my skateboard skills we agree it is best that I stick to the gentler pastimes.

This includes Disc Golf, a game that Olek assures me is massive in the States. “They’ve got 3,000 courses out there,” he tells us, “but you’ll find only three in Poland.”

In spite of the slightly grand name, it transpires that Disc Golf essentially involves traversing a circuit while chucking a Frisbee into a net. Not only is it a fantastic hoot, it turns out to be a first rate way to explore the complex.

And how stunning it is. Along our way we pass a deserted sandy cove, a Hansel & Gretel cabin (“sleeps 14 people,” grins Olek, “great for parties!”), and a wooden water mill perched on a hill. From the top of it a zip-line plunges all the way down to the bottom of the slope. “No,” I say second guessing what the photographer is about to ask, “I’m not going to have a go on it.” I prefer to keep my feet on the ground, and besides, I’m happy enough with the vantage point I have: as the lake below us shimmers in the scorching afternoon sun, fishermen cast their lines from rickety wooden jetties. It’s tempting to set up an easel and paint the scene.

Completing a full circle of the lake we terminate the tour at the ‘mini zoo’ where lots of animals that would make a good dinner parade around their paddocks. We might have opted for the less arduous pursuits but by this stage I’m already a picture of exertion and greased in a thick, dusty sweat. As we retreat to our lodgings to freshen up I regret traveling light (laptop, toothbrush, pants), but the room has a recharging effect. Despite outward appearances (criss-crossing timber beams and a wooden

cart parked in front) the onsite hotel, the Nosselia, is modern and stylish. The temptation with these countryside retreats is to overload them with cottagey extras, and while that’s fine in Provence, in Poland the effect usually looks old and grubby rather than antique and quaint.

The Nosselia doesn’t take that risk, and that’s good news.

i

t would be a pleasure to do so but we are not here to dawdle. Googling around ahead of this trip we have discovered a haunted house on the other side of Nasielsk and we’ll be damned if we miss it. However, there is a problem. We’ve asked the receptionist to sort out a cab but she returns with bad news. “There’s one taxi driver in Nasielsk,” she explains, “and he’s already hammered.” We could have guessed.

Situations like this are built for a knight in shining armor so step forward, once more, the events manager Olek. Volunteering for the job he chauffeurs us past a town called Malice and beyond the hamlet of Klukówek to our destination, an abandoned country manor set 100 meters off the road. Wading through thigh-high reeds we make our approach and find an ivy-clad structure that’s all been hollowed out and devoured by nature.

It’s alleged that a prominent Polish journalist made a stop here last year with his family and found himself drawn towards the house. While scrambling over the piles of bricks he was overcome by an overwhelming feeling of doom; despite being in the middle of nowhere his wife felt a strong sense of being watched; the youngest son, meanwhile, became embroiled in an agitated conversation with

an older gentleman that no one else could see. Sensibly, they made a bolt for it before things went all Amityville.

We don’t experience any of these phenomena, though we all remark upon the detached, forlorn beauty of this one-time home. Curiously enchanted, we walk around talking in whispers discussing who might have lived here and why it went to ruin. The house poses more questions than answers, but none are forthcoming. As we head back to the car we spot a local but the moment it becomes apparent we want to know more about the house she hurries away, claiming to be busy.

It’s sunset by the time we return, a good time to turn the bar into our base. Tall, tropical cocktails arrive one after the other, and while there’s the option of eating in the restaurant we already know what we’re doing for food: hooking up later with another group of guests we go lakeside where a fire has been prepared. Spearing the chef ’s homemade sausages on long, pointy sticks we huddle around it, laughing way into the night. It’s a long evening of smoke, fire, meat and beer. As ghost stories are told across the campfire, a choir of frogs croak in approval; in the distance, the sky flickers with light – an electric storm is dancing its way to Warsaw. Going to bed on a night like this is impossible, so we don’t, choosing instead to see in sunrise. It’s a good choice: inky blackness gives way to a surreal scarlet glow before being traded altogether for a thin violent mist. Everything is perfect...

Farma Krzyczki

Krzyczki Szumne 44, tel. 23 693 00 90, farmakrzyczki.pl www.warsawinsider.pl

29

LISTINGS RESTAURANTS 46 CAFES & WINE BARS 74 NIGHTLIFE 78 SHOPPING 85 FAMILY 88 HEALTH & BEAUTY 93 IN THE CITY 96

Ribbons of pink salmon and a smear of cream cheese? Yes please. And while you’re at it, why not slip those inside a soft, chewy bagel. There you have it, a match made in heaven. The latest enterprise from the SAM boutique bakery, this small hole-in-thewall venture likes to keep it simple with a choice of four or so bagels, freshly squeezed juices and a fridge full to the gunnels with homemade ice cream. They don’t reinvent the wheel, but they do perfect it. Fantastic stuff.

SAM Bajgle

ul. Emilii Plater 8

30

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2015

PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

Hole Hearted

REVIEWS Go Vegan

Because Mango is a must-go…

w

arsaw’s going vegan! Once a niche trend, vegan did make a spark before, only to be dimmed in a sea of hamburger overconsumption. Now though it’s caught fire like the rainbow on Pl. Zbawiciela.

One recent addition that’s caught my attention is the Bracka-based Mango Vegan Street Food, right where the short-lived Haka once was. With an outdoor patio flanking the Między Nami glam show and a hugely varied menu it’s something of a vegan paradise.

I have to admit, when new places open I tend to have doubts not only about the food, but also the concept. For me Mango does a great job in satisfying both. It offers everything vegan you would actually like to eat (hummus, veggie burgers, fries, falafel, soup, a fruit salad – here, obviously a mango salad – and even sticky rice) along with a roll-call of smoothies, lemonades, fair trade tea and coffee. And there’s beer, which may come as a surprise to some of those who think vegan restaurants don’t like to have fun in the sun.

Mango seems to want to make everyone happy and I certainly was with my jalepeno falafel – all the ingredients were perfectly proportioned, right down to the tahini. I can especially recommend the hummus with sun-dried tomatoes, a nice twist on a simple classic dish, as well as their weekend breakfast of shakshouka (poached eggs in tomato sauce) and coffee. That’s yours for zł. 15.90 each Saturday and Sunday between 11 a.m. and 2 p.m. (KD)

Mango Vegan Street Food

ul. Bracka 20, open Sun-Thu 11:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-23:00

l

Fingers Crossed For Warsaw’s new BBQ

esson 1, if you visit Sticky Fingers, is not to wear a check-patterned shirt. Do so and some moron may mistake you for a member of staff. Lesson 2, don’t believe the retro signage that adorns the walls. “I can’t cook” warns one, “genius at work,” announces another. The truth lies somewhere in between. Dubbing itself as a BBQ restaurant, the place itself feels great: soft tunes, friendly faces and lots of 30-somethings hanging around.

The menu, that’s printed on some crinkly brown paper, and starts with breakfast pancakes before taking you past a tidy series of burgers and wings – amongst them an ‘Ultra Hot’ version smothered in Mad Dog sauce. I’m just here for a lazy lunch so opt for roast beef that’s served on a wooden board slotted inside a metal tray – awkward. The chips don’t convince me, they’re too soft, even a little soggy, and while the BBQ beans are fab they’re meagre in number – three scoops and they’re gone (and it could have been two had the pot they’re served in been easier to handle). The coleslaw, meanwhile, is excellent, which is heartening seeing that the apparent bean shortage is compensated for by a giant dollop of ’slaw. And the beef? That arrives medium, not medium-rare, but I love the seasoning and also the size. There’s too much chew for my taste but overall I’m left pleasantly surprised.

The truth is, I had expected more. A raft of five star reviews online suggested that Warsaw finally had a world-beating BBQ restaurant. It doesn’t. Yet while it might sound patronizing, what it has gained is a comfortable little place that makes you feel good.

Getting people into a restaurant is hard enough, getting them to return is even harder. Would I? Yes, only next time, without a checkpatterned shirt. (AW) Sticky Fingers

ul. Marszałkowska 4, facebook.com/restauracjasf www.warsawinsider.pl

31

REVIEWS Ultimate Tempt-Asian

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

Warsaw’s top Thai chef signals her return with something totally... Thaisty

32

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2015

t

he message was brief but to the point. It read, simply, ‘new favorite restaurant’. In spite of living one tram stop away, it was actually the staff photographer who beat me to visiting Thaisty and his verdict, while terse, was 100% legit – within a week I had visited with such frequency that I earned myself a discount. So when the idea of a working lunch was floated around the office, picking Thaisty as the location was a no-brainer.

As it turned out, Monday wasn’t the best time to turn up mobhanded. “I’m really sorry,” apologized the waitress, “but we were so busy over the weekend that we’ve run out of several items.” Instead of the usual menu we’re therefore presented with a slimmed down version that’s been printed that morning – original disappointment aside, I immediately respect how they’ve chosen to deal with this situation: ‘the show must go on’, and all that.

Also, I secretly enjoy that I’ve been pushed out of my comfort zone: in my four visits prior my order has steadfastly been the same (BBQ beef skewers followed by duck breast in red curry), today though, I have to experiment – either that or dine in Sphinx around the corner. Wisely, experimentation wins, and so it should when you learn that it’s the award-winning Chanunkan Duangkumma in the kitchen.

While today the menu has been shortened, it hasn’t been shortened to the effect that choice is scant. As a result the three of us decide to go our own way on the orders and share out the spoils. This means an equal share of the chicken satays, which are served with a delicious peanut sauce that’s practically as thick as marmalade. The steamed dumplings – bursting with minced pork, shrimp and Thai herbs – leave a similarly good impression.

Topped with a thin crown of red caviar, they’re wolfed down with gusto. There’s a real sense of street food authenticity to the start-

ers, and that’s underlined by the Pekin Bun, a steamed bun loaded with duck, leek, lettuce and hoisin sauce. Equality be damned, I’m delighted that no-one notices that my share is the largest.

Mains see us make acquaintance with steamed squid stuffed with pork and then set down in a deep salad resting on a chili and lime sauce. The flavors flash like gunfire and prove severely addictive. Then there’s steak, with the hotplate it’s served on quickly becoming a battleground of competing cutlery: me, me, me. Marinated in Merlot and assorted spices, it’s simply incredible – no more words needed. Served with a Som Tam salad cascading with greenery, grapes, papaya and shrimp, this is a main that makes it’s zł. 59 price tag look like a mistake. Shush, don’t tell them.

Staggeringly, this is not the best thing we try. For that allow me to advertise the Matsaman curry. Accorded a wondrous looking star shape, first instinct is to snap a photo and post it on Facebook. And neither does the taste disappoint. Bedecked with violet potatoes, triangles of roti and heaps of beef, it’s a dish that’s rich, sweet and dances on the tongue. Outstanding. The plate is left so clean you suspect the dishwasher has the easiest job in Warsaw.

There’s much to love about Thaisty, and with its urban style it feels almost like an ambassador for a new generation of restaurants. Opened in May, word has spread fast around Warsaw.

They’re already busy, they’re already buzzing. It feels great. So who cares if they run out of my treasured BBQ skewers every now and again? Not me. Not anymore. (AW) Thaisty

Pl. Bankowy 4, thaisty.pl www.warsawinsider.pl

33

REVIEWS

34

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2015

Pollywood Blockbuster

It’s one of those streets, Karowa: as the sun dims an eerie calm settles, the only noise coming from the occasional car bouncing over the cobbles. But then you see it: is that really a video store? It sure looks it, with all these VHS titles that remind you of youth: Twins, Top Gun, Point Break… But all is not what it seems, for at the press of a button the shelves rollback to reveal a hidden door through which a new world awaits. Labyrinthine in layout, and with heavy retro accents, Karowa 31 unravels to reveal a series of chambers concealed in the shadows. All cloak-and-dagger, the feeling of being in a secret world is a thrill in itself. And appropriately, the drinks suit the setting: fixed by Bram, former manager of the London Cocktail Club, they’re a lesson in skill and precision and the good things in life…

Karowa 31 ul. Karowa 31, warsawbarproject.com

www.warsawinsider.pl

35

REVIEWS

Wine of the Times

There’s now more to Warsaw’s wine bars than wine alone – and for the best example, check Ale Wino, a place where the food hits the mark…

I

f it’s a surprise you’re after, why not explore the courtyards of Warsaw: they’re full of them, and not all of them pleasant. Enter at random and there’s a strong likelihood you’ll be met by a gush of smells and some bloke rooting through the garbage. Then there’s Mokotowska 48. True, at first you think you’re walking into a carpark. But dip through an archway and one is met by the sight of a wooden-decked terrace shaded by a slanted overhead sail. Welcome to Ale Wino.

Their story, while not exactly rags to riches, does have that feel-good ring to it: what started out as an online wine store caught the city’s attention – a bricks-and-mortar space followed, along with a few tables, and a menu involving small plates of this and tiny plates of that. Everyone loved it. But the biggest step was yet to come: that came last year with the appointment of chef Sebastian Wełpa, a move every bit as thrilling as adding a jet pack to some roller skates. Woosh – all of a sudden Ale Wino wasn’t just the wine bar everyone adored, but a fully-fledged restaurant competing with the best.

As starters go, mine acts as a good indication of Wełpa’s style.

Tailored for the roasting weather, it’s a pretty little offer featur-

36

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2015

ing flower petals, beetroot, goat cheese mousse and balsamic/ coffee dressing. The combination balances well and comes with a punch of sweetness that surprises the palette. Then, for mains, appears the pork belly, a favorite winter dish that’s been tweaked for summer. The pig is of the illustrious Złotnicka breed, and this little princess has been cooked perfectly – soft meat, crisp skin, and then served with an adornment of apple slices, sugar snap peas and celery mousse. At the suggestion of Oliver, the suave sommelier, piggy has been matched with a Tokaj whose acidity works well in adding a refreshing accent to this impeccable dish.

Does dessert go well? What do you think. Lipstick red strawberries are served on a crunchy kogel mogel, and the colorful brew feels just right for summer. But then, so does everything else about this venue. Cool, considered and effortlessly charismatic, it’s a place that encourages idling and feelings of concord.

When you leave, it’s with soul replenished. How many other places have that capability? (AW) Ale Wino ul. Mokotowska 48, alewino.pl

Hoppy Days Are Here Again...

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

Hoppiness is a sign of the times. Where once you’d have found an empty store unit with a puddle of piss in front of it, today stands a multi-tap – and we’ll take that any day of the week. Small but perfectly formed, there’s a warmth here that’s brought about by a design heavy on brick, wood and fancy blackboard signage. Befitting its intimate look, quality takes place over quantity – after all, craft beer isn’t some nuclear arms race no matter what the size merchants at Piw Paw have you believe. For this reason, find 12 taps (half of which dispense the beer of Pracownia, the venue’s main sponsor), and a fridge underneath where beer advocates geek over bottles by Mikkeller and De Struise. And in a further blessing, food is not forgotten. The burgers are excellent, and so too the beer-based ice creams.

Hoppiness ul. Chmielna 27/31

www.warsawinsider.pl

37

PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

REVIEWS

38

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2015

One to Remember

m

Memories are made in a trip down to Papu...

ass hysteria has overcome Warsaw’s chefs – it’s no longer acceptable to just serve good food, you have to build some glitzy fandango around it so that people can tweet a picture. On these grounds there have been some meals I’ve had in the last couple of years that have had more in common with a magic show than a trip to a restaurant. You get the idea that for some chefs, the ultimate accolade lies in being told, ‘gosh, aren’t you bonkers’. Bartek Kędra is not one of these and yet, accidentally for all I know, he’s created a dish that’ll remain in my memory for a rather long time.

I’m talking about his beef rib. It’s a massive, brutal instrument that could be used to club someone to death. Were you to do so, then eat the evidence straight after: this isn’t to avoid being caught by the cops, but because it’s utterly delicious. Fall-off-thebone good, this Flintstone monster is a piece of simple, straightforward brilliance. Importantly, it’s a reminder that food doesn’t need fireworks if the fireworks are supplied by the food.

But that is not to say that Kędra’s work is one dimensional. For example, the white asparagus with almond mousse and quail egg is a dish of labored sophistication. Straddling the ideal midpoint between crisp and tender this is a starter that redefines freshness.

Then comes pheasant pierogi with thyme sauce. These aren’t the

lumpy grey balls you chew on glumly around the Christmas dinner table, but beautiful ravioli cooked in chicken stock to ensure maximum flavor. And oh, and how could I forget the palette cleanser, a sparky fresh basil sorbet with small shards of watermelon. All of these speak of a deft eye for detail, unsurprising considering Kędra’s research trips around Europe’s elite kitchens.

Of course, all great meals end with an even greater dessert, and today that involves a strawberry tartar with homemade vanilla ice cream – it’s enough to make you weak at the knees. Enriching the whole experience further is the knowledge that it’s all been done, from start to finish, with a focus on – to invent a word – an emphatic scoop of ‘Polish-ness’. So I’m told, the onus is on regional produce from family farms, with Kędra’s philosophy mixing old techniques and new technologies with only the finest local ingredients from mom and pop operations. And you can tell by the results. There is modernity and there is creativity, but this never obstructs Kędra’s ultimate aim: to embrace taste over trends. (AW) Papu

Al. Niepodległości 132/136, restauracjapapu.pl www.warsawinsider.pl

39

ICK

ET

NO

W!

11TH JULY ENDORFINA, UL. FOKSAL 2

BASTILLE DAY BALL COME JOIN THE GREATEST EVENT OF THIS SUMMER! BALL ON THE OCCASION OF THE FRENCH NATIONAL HOLIDAY!

french cuisine

dj and dancing party

wine tasting and open bar

many other attractions

WWW.CCIFP.PL ORGANIZER:

HONORARY PATRON:

SPONSORS:

MEDIA PATRONS:

STRETEGIC PARTNERS:

/DZIENFRANCUSKI

TICKETS AVAILABLE IN THE RESTAURANT ENDORFINA. 100 PLN IN PRESALE TILL 10TH OF JULY, 130 PLN THE DAY OF THE EVENT. FRENCH BUFFET AND OPEN BAR INCLUDED.

BU

YY OU

RT

FROM 7 PM

Partner News

The latest marketplace news from the Warsaw Insider’s friends and advertisers…

Beefing Up

All because the people demanded it! Opened four years back, Butchery & Wine have had a full house in practically every day since – which is why it made sense to snap up the unit opposite and expand the business. As things stand, they may as well consider buying up the rest of the street while they’re at it.

Butchery & Wine ul. Żurawia 22 & ul. Żurawia 20

Bread of Heaven

One To Try

Established in 1889, this international chain mark their official Warsaw debut on July 22nd (7 a.m. on the dot!). Celebrating the French way of life, this operation aims to distinguish itself not just through its fine breads but also its selection of signature French dishes.

This month, scrum down at the Warsaw Tortilla Factory for the friendlies leading up to the eighth Rugby World Cup. Kicking-off on Friday 17th July, WTF promise to cover all the games no matter how awkward the time. Ease the early starts with a full English breakfast!

Paul Bakery & Restaurant ul. Emilii Plater 53 (Warsaw Financial Center)

Warsaw Tortilla Factory ul. Wilcza 46

A Serious Drink

For a drink with a difference duck into Polonez to check out their faultless selection of Polish classics. Discounting illegal moonshines, Nalewki Staropolskie by Karol Majewski are widely considered the best brand in the biz – so much so even Atelier Amaro stock them.

But they’ll be cheaper here!

Polonez ul. Poznańska 24 www.warsawinsider.pl

41

Pa N rtn ew er s

Friends Will Be Friends

Znajomi Znajomych translates as Friends of Friends, which reflects the intimate atmosphere of our downtown venue...

L

ocated in two prewar townhouses on Wilcza, Znajomi Znajomych offers a busy calendar of events whose highlights include dance parties, gigs, theater performances, cabaret, exhibitions and stand-up. Neither are film lovers overlooked, and to suit their needs we have our own cinema auditorium.

But our events schedule doesn’t just showcase what we like ourselves: at Znajomi Znajomych we want our guests to feel like they’re amongst old friends, which is why we’re always open to new ideas and suggestions – that’s what makes Znajomi Znajomych full of good vibes!

It’s not only the soul we look after, but the body. On our menu you’ll find a wide range of shots, cocktails, magnificent beers, delightful dinners, lunches, pizza and vegetarian-friendly dishes like hummus with onsite baked bread.

There’s nothing else like dropping by to meet friends – new and old – while checking out the full range of what we offer. We’re open every day from noon till last guest – we’re well aware that everyone’s night should be full of strong sensations, and that it’s our job to crank those up to the max to make sure you want to stay!

Znajomi Znajomych ul. Wilcza 58A, www.znajomiznajomych.waw.pl

42

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2015

Pa N rtn ew er s

Looking Hot!

Get a head start on the rest of town and color up your wardrobe with this season’s sparky summer shades.

For the final word in feminine style look no further than Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4.

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, plactrzechkrzyzy.com

1.

2.

6.

3.

1. Tory Burch purse zł. 690 2. Ralph Lauren sandals zł. 2,180 3. Victoria Beckham sunglasses zł. 1,690 4.

Ralph Lauren bag zł. 8,805 5. Tory Burch two-piece swimsuit zł. 810 6. Ralph Lauren skirt zł. 11,800

4.

44

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2015

5.

Feeling Dandy?

Warsaw’s burgeoning nightlife gets fresh direction from the new star in town…

A

mirror of Warsaw’s own blazing rise, Dandys feels like the right bar for the right time: elegant, cosmopolitan and buzzing with life. Sit outside to wallow in the warm glow of summer, or dive indoors, where a split-level floorplan presents a dilemma: to stay downstairs, in a thin, long space inspired by ’60s New York, or head upstairs where the interchanging artwork of young Polish artists is exhibited inside a contemporary space. Whichever you choose, it’s a place that whispers sensual sophistication and dignified chic. Opened in May, it’s already become synonymous with Warsaw’s movers and shakers. Does that face by the bar look familiar? That’s because it probably is – attracting footballers, actors and high-powered players, it’s this summer’s spot to see and be seen.

The drinks, of course, play their own starring role.

Cherry-picked from the city’s top bars, find the

bartenders slinging cocktails of serious intent: from classics to house exclusives, the one underlying factor is the consistent delivery of top-level product.

Incorporating seasonal ingredients and exclusive alcohol brands, the artisanal creations warrant chains of superlatives. Yet the biggest surprise isn’t the homemade jams and other bits and pieces that add jazz to your cocktail, but the price that you’ll pay: just zł. 26 for a world-class concoction made from their gigantic stock. Add to that a menu devised

by Master Chef finalist Karina Zuchora and you’ll quickly understand why it’s become the talk of the town. For the highest caliber of exclusive entertainment, look no further…

Dandys Bar & Art Kafe ul. Piękna 15, open Sun-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-1:00, dandysbar.pl www.warsawinsider.pl

45

restaurants KEY

NEW & NOTEWORTHY

$ zł. 30 (per main) $$ zł. 30-55 $$$ over zł. 55 New listings are in RED Best of Warsaw Award Winner

PORKOWNIA (ul. Piękna 20, porkownia.pl) Here’s a Warsaw first: a restaurant focused on celebrating the humble pig. Suspicions that Porkovnia may lack something in the sophistication department don’t bear fruit – sprouting from the ashes of Jazz Bistro Piękna, the surrounds are chic and modern, not the blood-spattered butcher’s backroom you might otherwise expect. The food is similarly well-presented and scores highly for such dishes as apple/bacon and boar/artichoke/marmite. Showing plenty of creativity, here’s a kitchen that reinvents the pig!

african american asian balkan & russian british burgers cheap eats cooking schools cuban french german greek & turkish indian international italian japanese & sushi jewish latin & mexican middle eastern polish scandinavian steak houses thai urban markets whole foods

46 47 47 48 49 49 50 50 51 51 51 51 52 52 59 61 62 63 64 65 71 71 72 73 73

Insider writers do not accept any form of payment in return for favorable reviews.

ZEST BY KIBART (ul. Grójecka 70, zestbykibart.pl) A sweeping stairwell aside, it’s almost as if this neutral-looking restaurant was designed so that attention falls on the food, not on the interior. You’re in the hands of Paweł Kibert, a face you may already recognize from the Top Chef program. Playing with seasonal produce, the idea behind Kibert’s menu is to present the true tastes of Poland. Reviews are mixed to positive so far, though everyone’s in agreement that it’s just a matter of time until this chef totally nails it.

46

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2015

african Café Baobab (H4) ul. Francuska 31, tel. 22 617 4057, open 10:00-23:00, www.cafebaobab.pl The work of former basketball player Aziz Seck, Baobab brings the tastes of Senegal to Saska Kępa. The mafe yap – beef stewed in peanut sauce – is as interesting as it sounds,

listings / restaurants and best enjoyed during their bi-monthly Saturday night concerts. $ La MaMa Africa (C1) ul. Andersa 23, tel. 22 226 3505, open Mon 13:00-24:00; Tue-Thu 11:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-last guest; Sun 12:00-23:00, www. lamama.eu Things we like: African Star beer and the traditional stews. Things we don’t like: the goat meat. But that’s not a criticism of the cooking, rather an admission we don’t like goats in general – dead or alive. Those who don’t fancy experimenting with gizzards and heads make do with dishes like yam porridge or sweet and spicy coconut rice. It’s the very definition of casual, and something of a focal point for Warsaw’s African community. $$

american Brooklyn Restaurant & Bar (C4) Al. Jana Pawła II 18 (Rondo ONZ), tel. 22 114 3434, open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-23:00 Gone are the fancy pants culinary creations once found in the basement, ousted in favor of a menu of pimped-up soul and street food, salads and steaks. This means fresh tacos – one with hangar steak and the other with battered tilapia – not to mention Mito’s Beef Ribs and 100% beef dogs. The ground floor burger bar is more prosaic, offering a standard line-up of burgers and wings: many swear they’re the best to be found. $$

Champions Sports Bar (D5) Marriott Hotel, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 5119, open 12:00-24:00, www. champions.pl While the concept and style look dated, there’s no faulting the attention to detail – wherever you look (aside from under the table), there’s a TV. The heavy décor brings to mind the trans-Atlantic sports bars of the 90s, with glinting trophies, whirring machines, clacking pool tables and a cacophony of commentaries. Hell, there’s even a boxing ring. But you can’t fault their consistency: the food is always on-point, the staff are pro, while the generous floor plan makes it suitable for unwieldy groups of large and loud lads. $$ Hard Rock Café (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, open daily 9:00-24:00, www.hardrockcafe. pl Instantly recognizable by the giant neon guitar outside, Hard Rock has a pierced staff of skater boys and rock girls and a menu that is, if nothing else, completely reliable. Peruse rock’n’roll swag that includes Joplin’s blouse, Prince’s guitar and Shakira’s pants. $$ Someplace Else (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6710, open Mon-Thu 12:00-01:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 12:00-24:00 Favoring a stark concrete look, SPE were once a legend of 90s/00s Warsaw. Things have tamed down since that ex-pat heyday, but this remains a noteworthy choice for live MOR rock and zippy Tex Mex food. $$

asian Cesarski Pałac (D2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 9707, open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 12:3023:00; Sun 12:30-22:00, www.cesarskipalac.com A rouge tinted Chinese restaurant whose design even incorporates a footbridge. Widely acclaimed, this 18-year-old restaurant combines Sichuan and Cantonese cuisine to serve a variety of dishes in an elegant backdrop. The Dim Sum are something else. $$ Papaya (E4) ul. Foksal 16, tel. 22 826 1199, open 12:00-24:00, www.papaya.waw.pl A place of precise lines and slick finishes, Papaya has a varied menu that uses influences from all over Asia, though particularly Thailand. But the star attraction is Preecha Wongsomboon, a Thai chef who fuses cookery with cabaret from behind a teppanyaki grill – his skills draw gasps. But between the honking horns and nifty knife work it becomes clear this is no novelty show: the food is top notch. $$ Patera (C4) ul. Świętokrzyska 36, tel. 535 333 123, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00; Sun 11:00-23:00, www.patera.com.pl The center pin is a semi-circular bar, above which

ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 97 07 www.cesarski-palac.com.pl Cesarski Palace has thrived in Warsaw for 18 years – from the outset we were the first to offer authentic Chinese dishes, including our signature Peking Duck which comes baked in a custom-made oven and served with pancakes, cucumbers, por and a special sauce.

Expect personalized service and special attention from the chef inside a restaurant sensitive to Feng Shui requirements. There’s nothing comparable to our perfect tastes!

www.warsawinsider.pl

47

listings / restaurants lamps hang from a ceiling made out of old Coca-Cola crates. There’s palm fronds, mismatching seats, cheerful colors, exposed pipes and industrial chains. Sacks of Haruka rice adorn one end, and on the other there’s floor-to-ceiling windows. It feels right, as does the food – a confident combination of sushi and Thai. We ordered fried beef, and were dealt a generous portion full of pleasing, punchy tastes, sticky rice and a deep, aromatic sauce. Just as good is the green tea ice cream, both cleansing and delicious. $$

10:00-21:00, www.restauracjayummy.pl Formerly something of an Insider favorite, recent changes have not been for the better. Sure, we can live with the remodeled cut-price interior (turn the lights down, could you?), but the food? That’ll remind you of the nasty little Asian cabins that were once so prolific about town: greasy, gloopy and cloying. $

Banja Luka (E8) ul. Szkolna 2/4, tel. 22 828 1060, open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.banjaluka.pl Lots of clunky timber and imported ceramics set the scene at this eatery, a Balkan stalwart that’s known for its economical pricing structure and bulky portions. Grilled meats are prominent and the food largely reliable. $$

balkan & russian

Toan Pho (D4) ul. Chmielna 5/7, tel. 888 147 307, open Mon-Fri 9:30-21:30, Sat-Sun 10:00-21:30 Toan Pho’s bowls of soup with rice noodles come highly recommended; as does the chaos intrinsic to this type of casual Asian eatery. The short menu is in Vietnamese with Polish decoding – although you can ask for an English version. $

Ba Adriatico (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 50/52, open 11:00-23:00, ba-adriatico.pl As a starter, then the grilled peppers stuffed with creamy, regional cheese are irresistible. But then so too the octopus salad. Mains are a celebration of simplicity, with dishes like skewered minced beef served with a bitey sauce and a soft, pillowy Lepinja bread. Yet ignore Thursday seafood night at your peril. Croatian-run, this neighborhood spot has an unassuming air that belies the general quality. $$

Restauracja Gruzja (D4) ul. Chmielna 5, tel. 729 460 761, open MonSun 12:00-23:00 So good that our Georgian connection claims it to be every bit as good as back home. The khachapuri wins big points, but so too the badrijani – eggplant slices rolled and filled with a mix of walnuts and Georgian spices. And then there’s the chinkali, every Georgian’s favorite dough purse of broth and meaty goodness. $

Yummy (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 797 830 639, open

Rusiko (E5) Al. Ujazdowskie 22, tel. 22 629 0628, open 11:00-23:00 The great location helps, with its nice evening light and people watching

Finest French Brasserie cuisine in the heart of Warsaw Disvcover our culinary passion

Le Victoria Brasserie Moderne, visit us Mon.-Sat. noon-midnight | Królewska St 11 | 00-065 Warsaw | Tel. +48 22 657 83 82 | Email: brasserie .moderne@sofitel.com | www.facebook.com/brasserie.moderne

48

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2015

brasseire_insider_144x102_v2_swv.indd 1

2015-05-14 13:01:30

listings / restaurants opportunities, but it’s the interiors that make it: rugs hanging on the wall, classic tables and contemporary lights. You feel right at home, which we guess is what the owners, Olga and David, had in mind from the start.

Find them hopping between tables, eating, chatting and going the extra yard. Full of warmth and love for food, this is the Georgia you want to know. $$ U Madziara (B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 620 1423, open Mon 11:30-20:00; Tue & Wed 11:30-21:00; Thu & Fri 11:30-22:00; Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, www.umadziara.pl U Madziara looks like it took two days to decorate. No-one goes here to marvel at the interiors though, they go in the knowledge that they’ll find great food at prices all bank cards can support. Chef Gabor’s signature goulash is one of life’s simple pleasures. $ Yugo (B4) ul. Sienna 83 (enter from Żelazna), tel.

694 109 379, open 12:00-20:00 You feel alive just being here: big on Colgate white colors, vintage tourist agency posters and bright stickers, Yugo is just about the cheeriest eatery you’ll come across on a dour Warsaw day. Presenting the food of the former Yugoslavia, this Balkan bolt hole specializes in meaty dishes served in traditional bread. $

british Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640, open Mon-Fri 11:00-last guest; Sat-Sun 10:00-last guest, www.legendsbar.pl It’s a British pub first and foremost, but don’t forego the kitchen either. The all-day breakfast is a great way to stoke up your drinking powers, while other dishes of note inc. pies, sausages and mash and, of course, fish and chips. $$

burgers Barn Burger (D4) ul. Złota 9. tel. 512 157 567, open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat 13:00-22:00; 13:0021:00, www.barnburger.pl Retaining a loyal crowd ever since their 2012 entry on the burger circuit, Barn Burger offer a loud and lively atmosphere and much celebrated burgers with names such as Heart Attack and Muppet. The list by the door notes the results

of their frequent eating competitions. $ Beef’N’Roll (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel. 531 707 070, beefnroll.pl If the wheels have fallen off the burger craze then no-one told Beef’N’Roll.

Originating as a food truck, their success has been such that a fixed venue was required.

Everything about the food and drink suggests quality is the main consideration.

Original Indian Cuisine

Burger Bar (E10) ul. Puławska 974/80 (enter from Olkuska), tel. 780 094 076, open Tue-Thu 12:0021:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-22:00, burgerbar.waw. pl Warsaw’s first legitimate burger spot was the talk of the town when it first opened up in 2012, only to have its thunder stolen when 100 copycats opened in their trail. But this lot have kept plugging away, sticking to their guns with little song and dance. Intimate and unassuming, it’s for good reason they’ve retained a loyal core of fans – if the words masterpiece can be applied to a burger, then their green chili burger is just that. $ Fuddruckers ul. Górczewska 124 (Wola Park), tel. 22 533 4000, open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00, fuddruckers.com Not ones to keep quiet, the American Fuddruckers chain claim to build ‘the world’s best burger!’ A big claim, but on early evidence they can certainly claim the Warsaw leg of this title. In an added plus, a buffet stand lets you throw as many add-ons (jalapenos, salsa, etc.) onto your food as possible. Full review coming up!

Warburger (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1. Open Mon-Sat 12:0020:00; Sun 12:00-19:00, www.warburger.pl While Warsaw has lost its appetite for burgers, you wouldn’t necessarily tell by popping in WarBurger. Set inside a diminutive cabin, join the scrum for jazzed-up burgers that use slow-food ingredients. If not the best, they’re most certainly up there. $ Ziggi Point (B4) ul. Pańska 59, tel. 696 145 735, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-20:00 Diners are summoned to the counter to collect their order via a buzzer, before settling down to enjoy what has emerged as a real candidate for Warsaw’s top burger. The fiery Desperados is as perfect as a burger gets, and best twinned with a Curiosity Cola from the Fentimans brand. Steaks and wings also available inside a cool diner setup. $

club

www.warsawinsider.pl

49

listings / restaurants cheap eats Bar Turecki “Efes” (H4) ul. Francuska 1, tel. 22 616 2580, open daily 11:00-21:00. ul. Aleje Niepodleglości 80, tel.

22 898 3001, open daily 11:00-22:00 So it’s a kebab shop, but when the kebabs are this good they’re well worth the listing. Either join the queue outside, or head indoors to sample the smattering of grill food and salads. $ Friterie (D5) ul. Hoża 42, tel. 794 158 813, open Sun-Thu 10:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-2:00 Served in paper cones, the Belgian-style chips come with that inimitable double-fried crunch and a range of sauces that merit experimentation: try the ‘Andaluse’. $

form (there’s even a spaghetti version…), and most agree they’re worth the ridiculous waiting times - waits in excess of 20 minutes (and considerably more) are the norm. $ Meat Love (D5) ul. Hoża 62, tel. 500 149 210, open MonThu 10:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-last guest; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.meatlove.pl Not ones to stagnate, Meat Love have expanded in size, meaning there’s now plenty of room to sample their artisan sandwiches – the roast beef will make your knees tremble. But with this weather, most head to the shaded pavement terrace. Do so as well, and with a craft beer for company. $

Hummus Bar (B4) ul. Żelazna 64, tel. 723 058 223, open 11:00-19:00, www.hummsubar.pl Much like the lime green interior, the concept is simple and straightforward: hummus, falafel and fresh pitta breads served to a busy lunchtime crowd. There’s nothing more to say other than it’s utterly delicious. $

Mr. Pancake (E3) ul. Solec 50, tel. 501 237 461, open MonSat 11:00-10:00; Sun 12:00-8:00, www.mrpancake.pl You’re just going to love their pancakes, with their fun, wacky look and creative toppings (M&Ms, funny faces traced with icing sugar, and lots of chocolatey stuff). They’re the sort of pancakes you’d get if Bart Simpson got stoned and decided to make some food – brilliant. $

Manekin (C3) ul. Marszalkowska 140, tel. 22 826 0753, open Sun-Thu 10:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:0023:00, www.manekin.pl Originally founded in Toruń, this pancake house chain is a national phenomenon – at times, queues for a table snake outside. The menu touts dozens of pancake options served in sweet and savory

Okienko (D7) ul. Polna 22, open Mon-Thu 9:00-22:00; Fri 9:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 13:0020:00 Belgian-style frites served in paper cones right from out of a street-side hatch.

Yes they’re good, but they’re bettered by the sauces that are written up in marker pen on the wall tiles. With money exchanged, do

your eating on the upturned crates left on the side of the curb. $ To Tu Dumpling Bar ul. Niekłańska 33, open 11:00-20:00, www.chinskapierogarnia.pl A shabby looking shack cabin, To Tu offer what are seriously considered some of the best – if not the best – dim sum in town. Magic-ked up by a Manchurian exile, the experience isn’t unlike being in a sweaty back street haunt in Asia.

And that’s a good thing! $ Wurst Kiosk (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 17, tel. 606 133 134, open Mon-Fri 11:00-21:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-19:00 Imported German sausages served through a hole-in-a-wall with big dabs of mustard and fresh buns to go with them.

The currywurst is just like the one you had at Berlin Hauptbahnhof. $

cooking schools Joseph’s Culinary Studio ul. Duchnicka 3, tel. 663 040 800, www. jospehseeletso.pl A familiar face from the TV, Botswanan born chef Joseph Seeletso marks a new chapter of his career with the launch of his own culinary academy. Tailor-made courses for individuals and groups are held in a custom-designed kitchen, and include cookery classes, wine tasting, dinner and the chance to learn a stack of secrets from the man himself.

BORDO HAS BEEN PRESENT IN THE HEART OF WARSAW FOR 15 YEARS! Breakfast: Mon-Sun 9 a.m. till noon (only in the Chmielna branch) • Italian wines, cocktails, lemonades • Focaccia, bruschetta, sandwiches • Pizza from a wood-fired overn • Pasta, al forno dishes • Big garden right in the city center

ul.Galczynskiego 9, tel. 22 622 0068 nowyswiat@bordo.com.pl fb bordo Gałczyńskiego

50

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2015

bordo.com.pl

ul.Chmielna 34, tel. 22 826 0171 info@bordo.com.pl fb bordo chmielna

listings / restaurants Scheller Academy ul. Międzynarodowa 68, tel. 22 626 80 92, open Mon-Fri 9:00-17:00 (Office) www. schelleracademy.pl Instantly recognizable by his beret and whiskers, Swiss-born Kurt Scheller invites guests to his Saska Kępa kitchen for lessons aimed at all skill levels.

cuban El Caribe ul. Mickiewicza 9, tel. 22 400 0994. Open Mon-Thu 12:30-24:00; Fri-Sat 12:30-1:00; Sun 12:30-22:30 Start with a round of daiquiris before ordering frijoles negroes (black beans). But everyone agrees, it’s the flan that gets you doing the cha cha. With the cooking left to a Cuban exile, this perky spot is worth the trip north to Żoliborz. $$

french ArtBistro Stalowa ul. Stalowa 52, tel. 22 618 2732, www. stalowa52.pl, open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:30-22:00 Part of an ‘art hotel’, the distant Stalowa features a narrow dining chamber with vaulted walls, fresh flowers and white formica fittings. It looks good, but on a brighter day the courtyard, strewn with deckchairs and crates, is the place to be. The food is erratic – our vol au vent starter was dry and devoid of taste, while the chocolate ‘cream’ dessert was a runny, ugly looking disappointment. But there is potential: the main was a thing of excellence – duck with a carefully crisped skin, a perfect hint of fat, expertly browned potatoes and a wellexecuted orange and caramel sauce. $$ L’Arc (E8) ul. Puławska 16, tel. 519 000 050, open 10:00-last guest, www.larc.pl A place of considered elegance, subtle decorations and monochrome colors. They’re especially noted for their obsessive attitude towards seafood (pick from five types of oysters, or delve into the fish tank for the lobster of your choosing), inventive mains and desserts that are heaven. $$ Le Bistro Rozbrat (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44, tel. 22 881 7808, open 12:00-24:00. The signs suggest that Powiśle is set to mature even further this year, making the transition from hipster haunt to restaurant breeding ground – and here is

Exhibit A. Owned by Frenchman Alain Budzyk, the interiors are contemporary casual, with talking points saved for the food. The concise menu has token nods to Spanish cuisine, as well as a steak bavette that’s being raved about on the blogs. $$ Le Victoria Brasserie Moderne (D3) ul. Królewska 11 (Sofitel Warsaw Victoria), tel. 22 657 8332, open Mon-Sat12:00-24:00, www.sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com The interior of Didier Gomez whispers intimacy, yet it also embraces notions of space and light.

The casual elegance that emanates from the design is accented by warm colors, low banquettes and glinting mirrors. Acting as a ballast to it all is an open kitchen, in which you’ll find Executive Chef Maciej Majewski honing his art. His is a menu that fits seamlessly with the surrounds: a fresh, modern look at French cuisine, but one that values clarity and simplicity. Always leave room for dessert, especially the ‘pear trio’ – delicate and refreshing and with the right hint of sweet.

Petit Appetit (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 27, tel. 22 826 44 61, open 8:00-23:00, petitappetit.com.pl A bit of French you say? Step in. There’s an atmosphere here that melts regulars and tourists into one. An easy coexistence that reveals a lot about the very soul of the place: café, hangout, bistro. Small choice but good results. $$

german Adler (E5) ul. Mokotowska 69, tel. 22 628 73 84, open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-24:00, www.adlerrestauracja.pl Set in a rustic rotunda, this veteran favorite packs in reassuringly caloric portions of pork knuckles, schnitzel and dumplings – all of a sudden, you understand why Helmut Kohl looks so large. Foaming beers served by Bavarian country maids complete the authenticity. $

12:00-last guest, www.paros-restauracja.pl Out of all of Warsaw’s Greek contributions Paros dazzles most with a glitzy look that’s a complete U-turn from the typical taverna look. Owned by the same team behind El Greco, the menu is identical, though a recent visit revealed a kitchen resting on its laurels – not one plate on our table was finished. $$ Santorini ul. Egipska 7, tel. 22 672 0525, open daily 12:00-23:00, www.kregliccy.pl/santorini/ Santorini looks scuffed and tired but there’s a bonhomie present that instantly engages.

Because Warsaw Just Got Hotter Classic Indian Cuisine With A Funky Twist ul. Zurawia 22, tel. 501 400 386, www.rain.pl

greek & turkish Paros (D4) ul. Jasna 14/16, tel. 22 828 1067, open www.warsawinsider.pl

51

listings / restaurants The kitchen attaches no value to things like presentation, preferring instead to simply treat diners to piles of grilled and skewered food that consistently tastes right – and the milfei dessert is magic. $$ Sofra (C6) ul. Wilcza 71, tel. 731 847 731, open MonThu 10:00-23:00; Fri & Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-22:00 On the design front it’s almost a straight plagiary of Charlotte: white brickwork, blackboard and communal table.

So the surprise here is the food – Turkish.

And not just any Turkish, but brilliant Turkish!

It’s nothing fancy, but there’s a real honest quality to the moussaka and lamb and beef in tomato sauce. The desserts are a real spoiler as well. $

indian Bollywood Lounge (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, tel. 22 827 0283, open Sun-Thu 12:00-3:00; Fri 12:00-6:00; Sat 14:00-6:00, bollywoodlounge.pl Known for their raucous dusk-till-dawn parties, there is another less hedonistic roll filled by Bollywood: that of a restaurant. The menu is an uncomplicated, classic affair that’s an ideal primer for the party ahead. $$ Bombaj Masala (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 606 688 777, open 11:00-23:00, www.bombajmasala.pl One of the best looking Indian restaurants in Warsaw, but the food rarely pokes above average. For a cuisine that prides itself on rich, intense tastes, Bombaj gets remembered for bland, oily dishes that only sometimes get finished. Yet business remains brisk, thanks in part to a combination of location and general culinary ignorance. $$

Buddha (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 23, tel. 22 826 3501, open Sun-Thu 11:0023:00; Fri&Sat 11:00-24:00, www.buddha.info.pl The days of the Raj are recreated in Buddha, a finelooking curry house with intricate interiors and top-drawer curries. The murgh masala jhodphur is a favorite of ours though the real plus here is the consistency: it’s always a solid bet. $ Chmielarnia (B4) ul. Twarda 42 (basement level), tel. 725

52

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2015

010 271, open Mon-Thu 11:00-24:00; Fri 11:00-2:00; Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 11:0024:00, www.chmielarnia.waw.pl Not only does Chmielarnia house some of the world’s best beers (see Nightlife), but also – as the shrine by the door may suggest – a very good restaurant. Sure, you’re eating in a dark and loud beer cellar (to us that’s a bonus), but the Nepalese chef, Ram, knows what he’s doing. And aside from Indian and Nepalese staples, there’s a menu tailor-made for the beer swiggers. $ Curry House ul. Żeromskiego 81, tel. 508 870 774 & al.

Ken 47, tel. 22 213 0689, open daily 11:0022:00, curryhouse.com.pl A primitive design (port-a-loo toilet, barred windows) and far-flung location have not hindered Curry House one bit. It’s a legend, not least for their vindaloo – a macho dish that provokes spontaneous combustion. Be warned: no beer. $ Madras (B3) Al. Solidarnosci 129/131, tel. 536 335 333, open 11:00-22:00 Even before you enter, you smell Madras: a pungent aroma that wafts gloriously over gloomy Solidarnośći. Looking humble, unassuming, and even a little seedy, this microscopic venue is as far removed from refined as it gets. For all that, those who love Indian food refuse to go anywhere else for their curry – full of intense flavors and bold spicing, the vindaloo is a near death experience: even your hair feels like it’s on fire. As the burning euphoria subsides, you’re left basking in that blissful glow all hotheads will know. Note: no alcohol license. $

Rain’s resuscitation though belongs to the kitchen: our curry expert rates the starters as the best he’s had in any Indian restaurant.

And the mains continue the form with a magnificent lamb tikka masala. The tiffin lunch deals are outstanding as well. $$ Tandoor (D7) ul. Marszałkowska 21/25, tel. 22 825 2375, open 12:00-22:30, www.tandoor.com. pl After nearly 20 years at the helm, owner Charanjit Walia has sold up and moved on, leaving a spiritual hole in his life-defining work. His parting shot has been a re-haul which has seen not just the interior modernized, but the menu – start with the pea and basil soup before moving onto the chicken tamarind or the chicken sholay kebab.

Coated in absinth, it’s set aflame at the table.

Traditionalists will also approve: the ‘classic’ menu features a formidable butter chicken tikka masala. After a couple of years in the doldrums, Tandoor is back with a bang. $$

international Aioli Inspired by Mini (D6) pl. Konstytucji 5, open 9:00-24:00, aioliinspiredbymini.pl Fans of the original we might be, but this latest venture brings to mind one of those anonymously formulaic Times Square eateries where tourists convene for the ‘fake’ New York experience. There are moments when the scrum at the bar threatens to spill into blood sport, while the despondent staff only make matters worse.

You’d think the Pilsner beer tanks would serve as a point of redemption, but here foul glasses make what should be Warsaw’s freshest beer into the capital’s worst. $$

Mr India Al. KEN 47, tel. 22 213 0689, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www. mrindia.pl Split on two levels the design is contemporary if a little characterless: leather banquettes that leave a sweaty bum print and wood paneling. No problem though, if it looks bland then the food isn’t. That means an incredible butter chicken that’s deep and immensely satisfying. Then there’s the vindaloo – could be hotter for some, but good enough for most. $$

A nuż widelec (E3) ul. Dobra 14/16, tel. 507 367 520, open 12:00-22:00 So snug is A nuż widelec, the feeling is of being round at a friend’s house.

The food is nothing fancy, but fresh and made with love – and it feels even better while the owner potters about, chatting with his guests and watering the flowers in the knockout garden. Such is the atmosphere, you want to call it home. $$

Rain by India Curry (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 438 9350, open Mon-Sun 12:00-23:00, www.rain.pl Fresh, contemporary interiors impart a chic, classy look, while the shaded courtyard garden is one of the best about town. The real credit for

Baltazar by Mondovino (D5) ul. Krucza 24/26, tel. 516 817 855, open 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, baltazar. warszawa.pl Filled with big red colors and battleship greys, there’s a nice feeling of improvisation to Baltazar, and an undercur-

www.warsawinsider.pl

53

listings / restaurants rent of individuality emphasized by a 1950s wall painting that’s the venue’s statement piece and ballast. The cooking is the work of twins Kuba and Michał (“one person in two bodies” laughs the owner), and is a brilliant work of deconstructed simplicity: delicate rabbit and thyme ravioli, huge meaty caveman steaks, and pork belly served with a blob of foam and an arc of liquefied apple.

And all hail the desserts, in particular, the silky crème caramel. $$ Bibenda (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 10, tel. 502 770 303, open Tue-Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, bibenda.pl If it’s informal dining you want, then Bibenda nails it: here the warm design incorporates a popular bar area filled with a young, chattery crowd. The seasonal menu makes use of market vegetables and farmyard produce, and is built on pillars of quality and simplicity. $$

Boathouse ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 389a, tel. 22 616 3223, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00- 18:00, www.boathouse.pl The name gives it away, doesn’t it? Situated in what is indeed a former boathouse, this venerable institution comes into its element each summer when Warsaw goes riverside to dine at this restaurant. Even out of season, the

Mediterranean standards have stood the test of time and keep this venue busy. $$ Brasserie Warszawska (E5) ul. Górnośląska 24, tel. 22 628 9423, open Mon 12:00-22:00; Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-20:00, www.brasseriewarszawska.pl Looking for classic cuisine with no daft flights of fancy? Here you have it. At a time when everyone wants to be Ferran Adrià, Brasserie has both a menu and interior that you can understand: pan-fried foie gras; elegant beef Rossini; and sinful apple tarte tatin, all served inside posh interiors of zinc-plated mirrors and chessboard floors. Their Michelin Bib Gourmand is a source of pride, but it’s the number of repeat clients that are the ultimate paean to the skills of chef Mateusz Wichrowski. $$$ Bubbles (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 512 540 913, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-18:00 Occupying a small, square room, it’s intimate and relaxed: a place busy with blackboards and bottles, crates and clutter. It radiates warmth and honesty. The food is exquisite, and includes big, meaty snails farmed in Mazury, and their signature dish: Swiss-style raclette. Presented on a wooden chopping board, this cheese dish is classic melty goodness, and served alongside a pile of potatoes, onions marinated with caramel and candied pumpkin. Considering the place doubles as a champagne bar the prices are remarkably moderate. $$

Concept 13 (D4) ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7373, open Mon-Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 11:00-16:00 You’d expect a rooftop meal at Poland’s ultimate luxury department store to cost the earth, but that’s not the case. The zł. 50 lunch deal allows Joe Public to enjoy the considerable skills of Dariusz Barański. That he manages to create different pieces of art each and every afternoon is a testament to his talent – fellow chefs and foodies privately talk of him as a Michelin star in the making. $$$ Der Elefant (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, tel. 22 890 0010, open 12:00-24:00, www.derelefant.com This leviathan restaurant unravels in a maze of wrought iron and monochrome tiles. The menu looks like it was devised by throwing darts at a cookbook (Mediterranean mezze, Tom Yum soup, burgers, pierogi, etc.), but if the focus is blurry then the quality isn’t. While some of the dishes are strictly middling, the Alaskan crab claws are excellent while the filet mignon (zł. 59) one of the best meat deals in town – and it’s even better when ordered with their own-made BBQ sauce. $$ Dom ul. Mierosławskiego 12, tel. 509 165 712, open Tue-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:0022:00 The simple name implies exactly what it is: a restaurant in a house. Set in a pre-war home complete with a lawn and garden, this little secret isn’t all that secret. When the Insider visited it was packed, prompting staff

Dear Guests!

We invite you to experience an exotic and mysterious adventure full of seasonal aromas and the unforgettable flavours of traditional Indian cuisine.

Curry, coriander, turmeric, cinnamon, ginger, cumin: these aromas mean it’s impossible to pass Buddha without stepping in.

Enjoy the atmosphere of Indian life, food, music and happiness.

Buddha Indian Restaurant ul. Nowy Swiat 23 +48 22 826 35 01 / 725 111 222

54

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2015

listings / restaurants to make some adjustments and put together a table. We’re glad they did. Their menu changes frequently, and on our visit included homemade focaccia, beef risotto and gravlax with lime foam on top of a mini-pancake. You won’t want to leave. $$ Dwie Trzecie (D5) ul. Wilcza 50/52, tel. 605 589 588, open 12:00-24:00 Undeterred by the departure of chef Marcin Jabłonkski, the new guy in the kitchen, Grzegorz Nowakowski, has stamped his own mark with a seasonal menu that’s high on creativity: on our visit that meant guinea fowl accompanied with splotches of emulsion and smears of coffee puree. Pleasingly, you get the idea that it’ll work in all seasons: raw enough for summer, yet intimate for winter. $$ Grand Kredens Al. Jerozolimskie 111, tel. 22 629 8008, open Mon-Fri 10:00-1:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-1:00, kredens.com.pl This mighty veteran continues to draw a steady custom on account of a wide-reaching menu that aims to keep everyone happy – and it usually does. The design is surreal to say the least, and is laid out in such a way as to always guarantee a spirited atmosphere. $$ InFormal Kitchen Pl. Małachowskiego 2 (enter from Traugutta), tel. 531 918 534, open 8:30-23:00; Fri 8:3024:00; Sat 9:00-24:00; Sun 9:00-23:00, informalkitchen.pl Headed by chef Dariusz Ratkowski, there’s plenty of fireworks over the course of a vibrant menu that sources its produce from regional eco farms: meat from within a 26 kilometer radius of Warsaw, dairy produce from Mazury and fish from Pomerania. The rump of lamb is a class act, and bettered only by the pear and thyme tart for dessert. $$ Kaskrut (D6) ul. Poznańska 5, tel. 22 622 5438, Open Tue-Fri 17:00-last guest, Sat-Sun 13:00-last guest , www.facebook.com/dwichlab This haunt has a high communal seating plan and hip, buzzy foodie crowd: fit in by taking pics of the food. The exciting menu is a temporary work that changes every two weeks. The place is known for its trial-anderror attitude: combinations that don’t work get binned before making a public debut.

Those that make it through the qualifiers

end up on the board. Servings are artistic, excellent and heavily influenced by French and North African cuisine, and new chef Piotr Ceranowicz already looks like he’s adapted well to Kaskrut’s high standards. $$

Kitchen (D4) ul. Widok 8, tel. 22 464 8284, open Mon-Thu 10:00-23:00; -Fri 10:00-1:00; Sat 12:001:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.burgerkitchen. pl It’s the wings that do it. Double fried they are and smothered in a plum BBQ sauce.

Eating them is sticky business, but the taste is sensational: just about the most joyous thing you can eat without the use of a fork.

After a six month flirtation with upscale dining, Kitchen have done a U-turn and returned to their roots – the results aren’t so much a kitchen revolution, rather a kitchen revelation. The ‘comfort food’ menu is a hit parade of meatballs, burgers, and other such creations made using the best natural, BEST WAWA 2014 local ingredients.

“Reinvention” La Maison (B3) ul. Chłodna 15, tel. 22 652 3660, open 8:00-23:00, lamaison.pl Everything here feels considered, from a wine list handpicked by importer Frank Telling, right down to the desserts, prepared by award-winning French pastry chef Michel Willaume – and my, what desserts. Backing the little details up is a menu of note: fish are a particular forte. All this in a casual background that features some whimsical Alice in Wonderland touches: patchwork armchairs, pinkish booths and hanging teapot-shaped lights. $$

UL. ZŁOTA 11, TEL. 668 016 964 CAFELOFT.PL

Under the careful eye of our chef Loft combines tradition with modernity and Asian cuisine with Mediterranean, accenting this unusual combination with a touch of Polish.

La Rotisserie (C1) ul. Kościelna 12 (Le Régina Hotel), tel. 22 531 6070, open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, 12:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 7:00-11:00,12:0023:00, www.leregina.com Truly, one of the standout dining rooms of Poland. Many have commented on the Michelin quality of chef Paweł Oszczyk’s restaurant, and you may consider the lack of a star one of the puzzles of the modern world. The cooking is ‘classic with a twist’, and is built for superlatives: the slow-roasted rack of Welsh lamb was one of our highlights of 2013.

Find Oszczyk ably supported by Andrzej Strzelczyk, Poland’s top ranked sommelier, and wonderfully charismatic staff. $$$ www.warsawinsider.pl

55

listings / restaurants L’enfant Terrible (D8) ul. Sandomierska 13 (enter from Rejtana), tel. 22 119 5705, open Mon 18:00-22:00; Tue-Fri 12:30-15:30, 18:00-22:00; Sat 15:00-22:00, www.eterrible.pl What a first year for L’enfant Terrible: opened at the end of summer, they’d already done enough by October to win Gazeta Wyborcza’s coveted Knajpy Roku award. And no-one deserves it more than Chef Michał Bryś, an innovative chef who leaves diners beaming. Pitting local produce against modern techniques the tasting menu (five courses: zł. 170) is sensational: the duck hearts will live long in this Insider’s memory. With all the hype you expect it to be a little up its arse, but it’s anything but: the design is smart but non-threatening, and the front of house staff are due plenty of credit. $$$ BEST WAWA 2014 “Newcomer”

Loft (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel.

668 016 964, open Mon-Fri 10:00-23:00; Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 11:00-22:00, cafeloft.pl Entering Loft isn’t far removed from stepping inside a pop art painting: lots of vibrant colors and weird lights inside strings of bubbles. A bi-level venture, the best spot to enjoy the menu is on the upstairs terrace, a sunny place befitting of options with names like Ding Dong Soup and Embarrassed Chicken. $$

56

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2015

Lokal 14 (D3) ul. Świętokrzyska 14, tel. 22 827 5480, open Mon-Sat 8:30-24:00; Sun 10:00-22:00 Having served his apprenticeship at Tamka 43, you’re right to expect good things from upcoming chef Filip Kosiń. He doesn’t disappoint with his artful menu of modern European “author’s cuisine”. Topping his skills off is a pleasing environment that’s big on light, wood and metalwork. Getting used to being more than a construction site, the opening of Lokal 14 is positive news for this stretch of Świętokrzyska. $$ Między Ustami (E5) ul. Mokotowska 33/35, tel. 530 323 325, open Sun-Mon 10:00-23:00; Tue-Thu 8:00-24:00; Fri 8:00-3:00; Sat 10:00-3:00 The design joins elements of classic Prague bordello against a London Soho bar, while the international menu features a decent steak nicely enhanced by a silky drizzle of demi-glace. You get the idea both the cooking and artisan cocktails need a little fine-tuning, but fundamentally this newbie is looking in the right direction – certainly one to keep a watch for. $$ Momu.Gastrobar (D2) ul. Wierzbowa 11, tel. 506 100 001, open Sun-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00, www.momu.pl Tapas-style portions of experimental-looking food arrives in little glass jars (meat and fish skewers, Eton mess), or else on paper plates a la the jalapeno hot dog. Pay zł. 40 for a choice of

six itsy pots served in a wire-framed basket.

A new concept for Warsaw, it’s been a case of so far so good for Momu. $

Nolita (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 292 0424, Nolita open Mon-Fri 12.00-15.00 (lunch), 18.00-22.30 (dinner); Sat 13.0023.00, www.nolita.pl The deluxe dining scene is filling out in Warsaw, and there’s now a few restaurants that can present an equitable claim for the No. 1 spot. However, it’s Nolita that perch at the top, with a menu that sees largely classical recipes through a sharp, modern prism – chef Jacek Grochowina has created a place that’s coherent and understandable without sacrificing values of innovation. Looking chic and high end, the tastes and sensations in this restaurant are thrilling: diners are left speechless by the tuna tartar, while the aged beef fillet is an Insider mainstay. $$$ BEST WAWA 2014 BEST WAWA 2014 “Fine Dining” “Chef” Nowa Kuźnia ul. Kostki Potockiego 24, tel. 794 126 019, open 12:00-last guest, www.nowakuznia.pl A mere step from Wilanów’s 18th century church, this onetime blacksmith passes muster for excellent steaks and fresh salads practically plucked from a garden. In season, the summer terrace is magical, and the place even touts a faux beach complete with diggers and slides for the kids. $$

listings / restaurants Oliva (D4) ul. Ordynacka 10/12, tel. 501 497 410, open 12:00-23:00, www. restauracjaoliva.pl The spirit of the Mediterranean hangs over Oliva, a place where a milk color palette is matched against potted herbs and soft wooden touches. The menu has riffs of Italy, Spain and Greece, with particular pride attached to their gourmet olive oils. At times the cooking of Łukasz Żuchowski has been described as ‘inspirational’ and his talents come paired with a wine list selected by Marek Kondrat – an actor / wine merchant with an immense reputation. $$ Platter by Karol Okrasa (C4) InterContinental Hotel, ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8734 or 22 328 8730, open Mon-Fri 12:00-16:00, Sat-Sun 17:30-23:00, www.platter.pl The hotel has roped in celebrity chef Karol Okrasa to head their revamped dining room. As a temple of nouveau Polish, the new layout isn’t a dramatic change from the previous occupant, but the food is faultless. In particular, the herb garden salad with prawns comes immaculately groomed.

An already excellent experience has been raised to talking point level. $$$ Punta Prima ul. Obrzeżna 1B, tel. 22 406 0886, open 11:00-22:00, puntaprima.com.pl There’s something immediately fetching about Punta Prima, a place that announces itself grandly with its deep wood panels and embroidered armchairs. For food, choose from a varied menu that draws on largely Mediterranean influences. Try the bream with herbs baked in sea salt. $$ Qchnia Artystyczna (E6) Zamek Ujazdowski, Al. Jazdów 2, tel. 22 625 7627, open daily 12:00-22:00, www. qchnia.pl Even on a cold, ashen day, can you question a view that spills down onto a canal and park way down below? And how about when that view comes from a candle-lit reconstructed castle… Endlessly romantic, this artistic eatery comes with a light look and a creative menu honed by Marta Gessler. $$ Renoma (E3) ul. Lipowa 7A, tel. 22 692 7239, open Mon-Fri 8:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-22:00, bistrorenoma.pl Here’s a venue that suits all

purposes at all times of day. Most of all, it’s a place that feels positive, a place where heart and mind work seamlessly together: that means breakfast to evening options – many of them gluten-free – including fab lunch deals and 60-day aged steaks. Great for afternoon ‘me time’ or a dinner date with a beautiful stranger, Renoma’s intimate style and soothingly stark interiors work with the personalized approach. $$ Restauracja 99 (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 22 620 1999, open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.restaurant99.com Sporting a futuristic look, 99 is an enduring veteran of the CBD circuit. No longer the top dog for business wining / dining, it nonetheless remains a very safe choice for perfect steaks and loaded margaritas. $$

‘sea essence’. Comparisons to Atelier Amaro are inevitable, and speak volumes for the innovation and talents of chef Andrea Camastra. $$$ BEST WAWA 2014 “Foreign Chef” Signature (D5) ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 55 38755, open 12:00-23:00, www.signaturerestaurant.pl ‘Kilian who?’ people asked when Wojciech Kilian was installed as head chef. But this young talent has had the last laugh: set to be Poland’s next big chef, his cooking is extraordinary and presents true fine dining at

Salto (D5) ul. Wilcza 73 (enter from Emilii Plater), tel.

22 584 8771, www.saltorestauracja.pl For those who think Argentine chef Martin Gimenez-Castro is just about steak, then they haven’t been to Salto. The tasting menu is the best way to view his full oeuvre, and on our visit included ceviche with Portuguese corvina; a dainty tranche of cavala mackerel; and Porcini ice cream served in the shape of a mushroom. It’s a brilliant demonstration of the chef’s passion and personality, but most of all, it’s just bloody brilliant. $$$ Secado (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 66, tel. 608 707 799, open Mon-Fri 10:00-23:00; Sat 11:0024:00; Sun 12:00-23:00 Casual, intimate interiors complement a menu that’s expanded from its original Latin leanings.

Everything we’ve tried here has been culinary gold, and that includes the surf & turf, tortillas and roast beef. $$ Senses (C2) ul. Bielańska 12, tel. 22 331 9697, open Mon-Fri 17:30-22:00; Sat 17:30-22:00, www.sensesrestaurant.pl The entrance alone is a thing of fancy and accessed through a long open-air corridor, one side flanked by the office block, the other by bullet grazed brickwork. Flickering flames dance on either side, the tall walls disappearing into the night sky above. Recommended is the six course tasting menu (zł. 230), which on our visit included eel, smoked at the table, duck with onion chutney and pepper mousse and swordfish served amid billowing www.warsawinsider.pl

57

listings / restaurants bargain prices. Kilian’s cause is complimented by a beautiful design described by one reader as a ‘Monegasque state of mind’.

Think: friezes and reliefs dated from the time this was the Soviet Embassy, lavish 1950s Oswald chairs, lighting by Serge Mouille and original Marilyn photos shot by the acclaimed Milton Greene. You feel a millionaire just being here. $$ Solec 44 (F4) ul. Solec 44, tel. 798 363 996, open Tue-Sun 12:00-last guest; Mon 16:00-last guest, www.solec.waw.pl Chef Aleksander Baron is one of the big characters on Warsaw’s foodie circuit, and his love of nose-to-tail food always ensures surprises on the daily changing menu. Using fresh, seasonally appropriate ingredients, this is one of the best alternate dining experiences around: and yeah, it doesn’t really look like a restaurant. Diners order at the counter before sitting down in a spontaneous looking, cut-price interior that clacks and clatters to the sound of grown-ups playing board games. We’re huge fans. $$

58

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2015

Stółdzielnia (D9) ul. Kazimierzowska 22, tel. 22 845 00 67, open daily 13:00-22:00 www.stoldzielnia. pl A complete anomaly Stółdzielnia looks more like one of those one-day pop-up restaurants: unfinished looking, with oddshaped tables and stark colors. But keep an open mind because the food scores big points. The pizza, pasta and seafood dishes incorporate imported Italian ingredients, and come close to blowing your mind. $$ Strefa (C3) ul. Próżna 9, tel. 22 255 0850, open Mon-Fri 8:00-24:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-24:00 Just what were they thinking ignoring the form book like that? No communal tables, no pipes and no rough-hewn bricks. Instead, there’s a swan white elegance here, with lots of pristine colors and smart, smooth-talking service. What a refreshing change. The chef favors sous-vide techniques, and his is a magic, masterful hand – his duck is flawless, and the homemade ice cream with seasonal fruits is quite a follow-up. Even the cocktails are a thing of brilliance. $$

Szklarnia ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), tel. 690 511 020, open 11:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00 The cuisine is influenced by the season, which means plenty of light summer dishes presented with real aplomb. Recognizable by the dazzle of neon and greenhouse outside, this is a restaurant that seamlessly fits with the Soho surrounds. $$ Tamka 43 (E3) ul. Tamka 43, tel. 22 441 6234, open Mon-Sun 10:00-23:00, www.tamka.43.pl The design is upscale but in a quiet, dignified manner, with the principal talking point being the view: there it is, right in front of you, the Ostrogski Palace. For date night, book the peacock’s perch, a table for two that juts out from the rest of the glass frontage. Chef Rafał Hreczaniuk has finessed a menu that stands out as one of the best in the city, with a seasonal tasting menu that on our visit featured beautiful zander with horse radish powder, Irish beef cheek with plenty of oomph, and a wild garlic panna cotta. Consider it one of the Poland’s elite restaurants. $$$

listings / restaurants Tapage (D6) pl. Zbawiciela 5, open Sun-Thu 12:0024:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-4:00 Newly opened, it’s best to think of Tapage as a testing ground for experimental ideas. Opened by the same team behind Kaskrut, it’s split into three distinct areas: a terrace, a snug white-tiled bar, and an upstairs nook up some spiral stairs. The menu (scheduled to change every couple of weeks) is brief with dishes presented like proud little artworks.

We tried everything (!), and particularly loved the salmon served with sriracha and a bed of diced pineapple. The overlapping tastes form a perfect combination leaving diners stunned. $$ U Chłopaków (B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 115 9710, open 8:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00 Chłodna’s renaissance continues. Formerly a decrepit grocery store of the same name, Chłopaków is all exposed brick, sprigs of greenery and overhanging lamps. It’s a casual stop, but the cooking is not a throwaway – the menu is heavily slanted towards Eastern European, and has winning pierogi and wonderfully thick goulash. $$ Villa Foksal (E4) ul. Foksal 3/5, tel. 22 827 8716, open Mon-Fri 12:00 -22:00; Sat-Sun 13:00-23:00, www.restauracjavillafoksal.pl There’s a real elegance to Villa Foksal, an upscale restaurant whose floor plan and garden have made them a favorite for corporate bashes

and brand launches. The Vichyssoise with truffles is a prelude to mains like filet mignon in red wine sauce. $$$ Wilczy Głód (D5) ul. Wilcza 29A, tel. 22 891 0285, open Mon 9:30-20:00; Tue-Thu 9:30-22:00; Fri 9:3023:00; Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 The jaunty, impish design makes use of cartoonish wolves on the walls and tree-like installations strung with bare light bulbs.

And look, there’s a furry, mouse resting on a cushion. But if the place is playful and perky, then the cooking is both serious and sincere. Matching international ideas with organic local produce from small family farmsteads, you immediately sense this is a place created out of a love and respect for food. $ Wootwórnia (H4) ul. Królowej Aldony 5, tel. 603 696 259, open 10:00-22:00, www.wootwornia.pl.

Accessed round a back garden, Wootwórnia feels like a private little secret – you get the sensation not of visiting a restaurant, but of visiting a friend. The dominant element is the counter, from which co-owner Agnes Woo showcases her homemade preserves and own-baked cakes. Sourcing ingredients from small-scale local farms, here is a menu designed to nourish the soul. And it does just that. The tomato soup, enriched with hint of orange, aniseed and cinnamon isn’t soup of the day, it’s our soup of the year.

Genuine ‘food from the heart’. $$

Znajomi Znajomych (C5) ul. Wilcza 58A, open Mon-Thi 12:00-1:00; Fri 12:00-3:00; Sat 13:00-3:00; Sun 13:001:00, znajomiznajomych.waw.pl You can’t label Zna Zna a restaurant because it’s so much more than that: screenings, DJs, yard sales, book readings… there’s not a thing they don’t turn their hand to. But that’s not to say this retro-styled hangout can’t turn their skills to food – here that means light bites, pizzas, burgers and a recommended chili con carne. $$ Żurawina (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34, tel. 22 521 06 66, open Mon-Thu 8:00-24:00; Fri 8:00-1:00; Sat 14:00-1:00; Sun 14:00-22:00, zurawina. eu First a wine bar, second a restaurant, but the food here is such that it merit attention.

There’s only seven or so mains to pick from, and the chef has them down to a tee – rib eye with shallots and truffle butter? Yes please.

Certainly, the quality befits one of Warsaw’s best wine bars.

italian Ave Pizza (E3) ul. Topiel 12, tel. 22 828 8507, open 12:00-22:00 The argument over who serves Warsaw’s best pizza goes right to the wire,

• The best quality USDA Black Angus prime beef, Wagyu 9+ Kobe steaks and Scottish prime beef.

• Outstanding seafood menu with oysters, mussels, octopus and calamari and seasonal, traditional Polish dishes.

• The largest selections of global wine in Poland. ul. Merliniego 5 (across from the Warszawianka water park) tel. 22 646 0810/22 646 0849

www.warsawinsider.pl

59

listings / restaurants but there’s no doubting that Ave Pizza are up there on the leaderboard. Set across a sparse, metropolitan area, this fashionable L-shaped joint comes endorsed by the capital’s notoriously picky Italian community.

Order the pillowy calzone and you’ll soon learn why. $ Ave Pizza Piękna 56 (D6) ul. Piękna 56, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:30; Sun 12:00-22:00 After experiencing landslide success in Powiśle the Ave team have listened to the market and expanded to the center. While pizza still plays a prominent role, their newest location is more serious and sophisticated in its culinary intent.

Dishes like prawns in parma ham win blanket approval, while the semifreddo stop you in your tracks. $$ Bacio (D5) ul. Wilcza 43, tel. 22 626 83 03, open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00, www.bacio.pl New look Bacio has been de-cluttered and simplified and

60

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2015

now features a stripped down look and a menu that peaks with the duck in red wine risotto. Portions are huge, and are matched by a quality that’s seen this once ailing giant reinstalled as one of the top Italian eats in town. $$

Bistro Bordo ul. Chimelna 34 & Gałczyńskiego 9, bordo.com.pl Two locations, one standing dead center on the revamped end of Chmielna, and the other tucked down leafy Gałczyńskiego. Opening earlier than their sister, the original on Chmielna offers a breakfast menu from 9 onwards. In both find simple Italian recipes accurately reproduced and wood-fired pizza ovens that are expertly manned. $$ Delizia (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 22 622 6665, open

Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00, www.delizia.com.pl The sheer proliferation of Italian restaurants lends an element of chance to dining out: cut through the noise by visiting Delizia, a place that’s consistently topped polls ever since it launched in 2010. Lorenzo’s cooking is upscale Italian with a contemporary twist, and comes presented by Luca, an ebullient ball of energy who patrols the floor with sparkling good humor. In the hands of these two an unforgettable night comes guaranteed.

Top quality imported products, a dimly-lit romantic atmosphere, a tasteful design and faultless food: no wonder so many rate this as their favorite Italian. $$ Dziurka od Klucza (E3) ul. Radna 13, tel. 500 150 494, open Mon-Sun 12:00-22:00, dziurkaodklucza. com.pl An inviting Italian restaurant in which curious doors sit embedded into the walls, as if waiting to be opened by the keys that hang on the tree outside. Striking a lavender look, the magic of this restaurant is affirmed by its wonderful pasta and intimate style. $$

listings / restaurants Focaccia (D2) ul. Senatorska 13/15, tel. 22 829 6969, open 8:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-23:00, focaccia.pl Polish foodies already know the name of Łukasz Toczka – single-handedly he pulled the culinary shipwreck that is Gdańsk into the 21st century during his stint at Metamorfoza restaurant. Now he’s popped up in Warsaw, and his Italian menu illustrates his talent: consider the bistecca con sedano a must. And while you’d expect a restaurant inside a palace to be all bowties and oil paintings, it’s anything but – instead find fresh, light interiors that reflect the nature of the food. $$ Kotłownia ul. Suzina 8, tel. 22 833 23 27, open daily 13:00-last guest (kitchen to 23:00), www. winiarnia-kotlownia.pl You’d never guess from the grey surrounds but Kotłownia is one of the emerging stars of Warsaw dining.

Set in a historic disused boiler house (the Warsaw Uprising started right outside!) a generous helping of wooden touches warm the split level industrial interiors, but it’s the food that steals the show. The modern Italian menu reflects the owner’s passion for Italy, as does the handpicked wine list. The convivial atmosphere makes it perfect for a long, lazy lunch. $$ Mąka i Woda (D4) ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 91 87, open Mon-Thu 12:00-22:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-20:00 Purists applaud an approach that uses a custom-made oven from Naples and imported ingredients such as 00 Caputo flour and DOP certified San Marzano tomatoes. Scrupulously authentic, it’s no wonder that it’s packed to the gunnels every night of the week – even their Facebook page warns of 20 minute waiting times for a table alone. Learning this, some storm off in a huff – they need their heads checked, for this is Warsaw’s best pizza. $ Mamma Marietta (C9) ul. Wołoska 74A, tel. 22 880 0071, open 12:00-22:00, www.mammamarietta.com A scattering of tables make reservations recommended in Mamma Marietta, an informal looking restaurant with lugubrious interiors and solemn service. But the food, created by head chef Andrea, has an authenticity that’s rare in a city whose enthusiasm for Italian food isn’t always reflected by quality. The tomato soup starter, is deliciously thick and almost worth the trip itself. $$

Parmizzano’s (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel, Floor 1), tel. 22 630 6306, open 12:00-23:00 The prices are highly intimidating, but are offset by cooking that never falls below brilliant.

Hotel restaurants get a bad rep, but in the formal surrounds of Parmiazzano’s diners can expect Italian food at its very best. $$$ Ristorante San Lorenzo (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 36, tel. 22 652 1616, open 12:00-last guest, www.sanlorenzo. pl Adorned with crisp, starched linen and Roman frescos this space is almost magisterial in design. The Tuscan menu is flawless and well worth the rather hefty bill. The wine bar on the ground floor features the same standards at a snip of the price, and it’s here you’ll find Italian natives cheering the Serie A football. Now also on Żurawia 6/12, only with a more modish design clearly targeted at a slightly younger audience. $$ The Olive (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6706, open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, Sat & Sun 6:30-11:00 Bursting with seasonal fruits and veggies, it’s a fresh, fun place to eat. Hot and cold buffet for zł. 90. $$$

‘Simplicity, elegance and atmosphere’

Cafe • Wine Bar • Restaurant • Whisky Bar • Wine Cellar ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 515 037 001 www.hoza.warszawa.pl www.facebook.com/hoza25 Open 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-21:00

Venti-tre (E8) ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel), tel. 22 558 1094, open 6:30-23:00 There’s a hum and a buzz to the place that goes beyond the half a million bees kept in the apiary on the rooftop, and that’s never truer than on a Sunday afternoon – swing by for one of Warsaw’s top brunches, and don’t miss the terrace – carefully shielded from the outside world by a phalanx of greenery. The Mediterranean menu has been carefully constructed using local ingredients, with the results befitting one of Warsaw’s top hotels. $$$

japanese & sushi Hana Sushi al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), tel. 22 331 7518, open Mon-Sat 11:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, www.hanasushi.pl Dated decor of bamboo shoots and bonsai trees is made to look good by dreadful service and irritating elevator music. But it’s hard to dislike Hana – the ‘gunkan special’ is out of this world. $$ Izumi Sushi ul. Mokotowska 17 (pl. Zbawiciela), tel. www.warsawinsider.pl

61

listings / restaurants 22 825 7950, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00 & ul. Biały Kamień 4, tel. 22 424 0055, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.izumisushi.eu The original location never ceases to amaze with its sushi, though it’s the addition on Biały Kamień that really gets people talking.

Here it’s not just the food that wows, but the interiors: a huge venue whose open plan doubles as an indoor forest – you need to see it to believe it. $$ Sakana Sushi Bar ul. Burakowska 5/7 tel. 22 636 0505, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00, Sun 13:00-22:00 & ul. Moliera 4/6, tel. 22 826 5958, open MonThu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-1:00; Sun 13:00-22:00 & ul. Wąwozowa 6, lok.10B, tel. 22 498 8899, Mon-Sat 12:00-22:30, Sun 13:00-22:00 Sushi as a fashion statement?

That’s what you find in Sakana, a place where the glam and the great of Warsaw peacock around with feathers on display. Ignoring the general vanity and unpleasantness, one can’t help but applaud the sushi – if there was one winner in the sushi wars of the noughties, then Sakana was it. $$ Sushi Zushi (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 420 3373, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-03:00; Sun 13:00-22:00, www.sushizushi.pl The mania for sushi is in recess, and that’s a good thing – the rogue operators are dead or dying off, and are survived by the best. And make

62

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2015

no mistake, Sushi Zushi continue to be the No. 1 ex-pat choice. Appreciated by a stunning crowd, the rolls are often bold, creative and always astonishingly fresh. $$ Tomo (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2344, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.tomo.pl Excellent.

While Warsaw’s other sushi stops gather cobwebs Tomo packs out each night – that should say enough. With the maki, sushi and sashimi bobbing past on wooden platters, this place aims for fast, maximum turnover without ever making the diner feel second best. $$

and glorious tuna gunkan that flashes with freshness. Screw the chopsticks, food this good finds itself scooped up in the fingers and demolished in seconds. Soon enough it all becomes a blur of beautiful compositions, of silky slithers of fish crowned with expert pinches of this, and little brush strokes of that. The details don’t seem to matter, what does is that Wabu blow the competition out of the water, even if it does leave the credit card streaming smoke. $$$

jewish

Uki Uki (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, tel. 728 827 705, open 12:00-21:00, ukiuki.pl Depending on how busy they are, Uki Uki will prepare your Udon noodles fresh within 15-30 minutes. The electric pasta maker, imported from Japan, is a Godzilla of a monster, compressing and even cutting the udon dough into chunky, chewy noodles that provide a solid foundation for a richly satisfying meal. Every now and again a restaurant comes along that makes Warsaw’s dining scene all the more complete – Uki Uki is one of those. $$

Galil (C3) ul. Zielna 36, tel. 731 492 634, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Sun 14:00-23:00, www.galil-restaurant.pl There’s been a few Jewish restaurants opened in the last couple of years, and they’ve all quickly folded.

Already though, there’s the impression Galil might last the distance, a point underlined by the rather good food. We started with a zesty tabouleh before moving on to grilled chicken breast with dates and a syrup glaze. Set inside a rambling, tiled interior, this labyrinthine space already looks like its snaring big-spending groups. Kosher certified, as well. $$

Wabu (D5) ul. Krucza 41/43, tel. 22 628 9274, open 12:00-23:00, wabu.pl The food is a masterpiece: immaculate futomaki rolls that look like little artworks, exquisite butterfish

Pod Samsonem (C1) ul. Freta 3/5, tel. 22 831 1788, open 10:0023:00, www.podsamsonem.pl Operating since the 1950s – crazy when you think about it. This is the place for an ordinary meal in an

listings / restaurants ordinary space. The menu mixes aspects of Polish and Jewish cooking, and fails to do a good job of either. Entertainment is provided by the staff: find them engaged in something akin to war with the people they serve. $

latin & mexican Aioli (D3) ul. Świętokrzyska 18, tel. 22 290 102, open Sun-Thu 9:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 9:00-24:00, www.aioli-cantine.com This runaway hit has taken Warsaw by storm. It’s a jaunty space with hams hanging from hooks and long communal tables that thrive with life. Aioli’s breakfasts, sandwiches, pastas and pizzas are a lesson in clean, simple pleasure: nothing out of the world, just consistently good.

This and the liberal prices mean there’s no shortage of people passing in and out the doors. $$ Blue Cactus (E8) ul. Zajączkowska 11, tel. 22 851 2323, open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 9:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, www.bluecactus.pl It’s been around for so long that people had started referring to the Cactus in the past tense. Enter executive chef Patrick Hanna, a man who has revitalized and revived the place in a way no-one could have imagined.

Combining the barbecuing techniques of the southern states with the humble but potent tastes of Mexico, Hanna has reawakened this sleeping giant. Committed to local produce and fresh flavors, his finest moment has been hoiking over a wood-fired grill all the way from Nashville – the steaks will stop you in your tracks. Say it loudly: the Blue Cactus is back! $

Casa Pablo (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5A, tel. 22 324 5781, open Mon-Sat 12:00-last guest, www.casapablo. pl While increasingly well represented in the capital, Spanish food has been pointed in a new direction by Casa Pablo. Breaking away from hackneyed clichés, the eclectic interior (tartan colors, crates, a century old mirror) is reflective of a menu that places equal importance on flair, quality and elements of fine dining. Based on the ‘creative Spanish’ movement, find the likes of pork ribs in hoi sin and honey sauce introduced, not to

mention cod cooked at 45° and served with pigs trotters. You’ll be amazed. $$ Dos Tacos (D4) ul. Jasna 22, tel. 22 243 4618, open 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00, dostacos. pl Dos Tacos finally have a venue worthy of the food. Featuring lots of Mexican lizard art and psychedelic, Day of the Dead touches, find the interiors busy with a lively crowd enjoying an exciting range of salsas and authentic Mexican recipes as cooked by Isabela Balderas. $$ Gringo Bar (E9) ul. Odolańska 15, tel. 22 848 9523, open Mon-Sat 12:00-20:00; Sun 11:00-20:00 A Mexican wave is upon us, and high time too. After years of suffering frozen ingredients, timid flavors and daft Mariachi music to persuade us it’s all authentic, a raft of new cut-price eateries are showing the rest how it’s done. Cooked and folded by fist bumping lads in back-to-front caps and baggy t-shirts, the food at Gringo is the best of the bunch: fiery, fresh and full of zing.

Jamon (D2) ul. Wierzbowa 9, tel. 22 692 4223, open 12:00-23:00, jamon.pl The place looks the biz – custom made artwork presents swirling senoritas against an interior that’s based around a naval color palette and reclaimed wood touches. Perfect for ‘hot dates’.

There’s an onus on authenticity, and that’s evidenced by the four Spaniards found in the kitchen. We could find no weak point, meaning complete enjoyment of the tranche of black Alaskan cod, bulgy-eyed Huelva prawns and slow-roasted lamb shank. The desert – white chocolate cream – is worth a prize. $$ La Fiesta Tequila Bar (E4) ul. Foksal 21, tel. 22 829 8560, open 12:00-3:00, www.lafiesta.pl What was once a pretty diabolical Mexican joint has, apparently, experienced a dramatic turnabout. The sombreros and crap have been replaced by a psychedelic, Day of the Dead-style featuring skeletal Mariachi men, not to mention no shortage of tequila bottles. But the real gossip is reserved for the kitchen: gone are the fraudsters who used to work here, and in their place is Jorge Martinez – no guessing where he’s from. Is his menu up to scratch?

Absolutely no idea. We left after having a run-in with the worst service experienced since the Cold War ended. $ www.warsawinsider.pl

63

listings / restaurants Tapas Gastrobar (A4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 251 1310, open Mon-Thu 12:00-last guest (kitchen closes at 23:00); Fri-Sat 12:00-last guest (kitchen closes at midnight); Sun 12:00-19:00 (kitchen closes at 18:00), tapasbar.pl The engaging design features scuffed timber tables supported by rescued factory metal, open ductwork and elaborate floor tiles of Iberian persuasion. But the food is what everyone is talking about: the first class gazpacho, prepared onsite then served in a bottle, is full of refreshing summer zing, while the beef cheek is pure melty tenderness.

Our favorite, though, are the patatas bravas, perfectly fried potatoes served in a ballsy BEST tomato sauce. Just amazing. $$ WAWA 2014 “Casual Dining” The Mexican (D1) ul. Podwale 29, tel. 22 635 3232, open Sun-Thu 11:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00 & Zgoda 6, tel. 22 826 0009, open Sun-Thu 11:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-2:00, www. mexican.pl Everything Mexican food shouldn’t be. There’s zero zing, and no matter what you order anticipate mysterious gloop with lots of mashed cabbage. It’s all such a shame, because with its burbling fountain and courtyard location The Mexican looks like it could be the real deal. Find their latest imposter hawking for custom on Zgoda 6 $$ Spoco Loco (H4) ul. Francuska 8, open 12:00-21:00, www.

spocoloco.pl It begins with a bead of sweat.

Then a couple of tears. Then the real pain starts and doesn’t retract until you’ve rolled on the floor and died for twenty minutes.

Spoco Loco’s No. 7 sauce is no laughing matter, and should be treated with respect.

But this tiny eatery is not founded on gimmicks. The burritos and quesadillas are the real deal, and ably supported by a choice of milder sauces that don’t require Red Cross treatment. After a mysterious absence of six months, it’s heartening to see Spoco Loco back open for business. $ Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46 (entrance from ul. Poznańska), tel. 22 621 8622, open 12:00-last guest, www.warsawtortillafactory.pl Howling hot salsas and freshly made tortillas give WTF a head start on other restaurants, but there are other strings to their poncho: the menu has been slimmed and continues to be tinkered with, while the introduction of zł. 15 lunches – served on Alcatraz trays – present one of the best deals in town. We’ve enjoyed the burritos here for years, and score them as amongst the best around. $$

middle eastern HeyooDubai (B2) Al. Jana Pawła 45/54, tel. 535 075 770, open 11:00-23:00, tagine.pl Any doubts you have about a restaurant trying to cover the cuisine of Morocco, Pakistan and the Gulf

states is immediately dispelled by the thick, rich aromas that pour from the traditional Mandi oven. The couscous is stalwart, and the charcoal grilled chicken a dish of real standing. Affordable and casual, Heyoo is the real deal. $$ Le Cedre (E1) Al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166, open daily 11:00-23:00, www. lecedre.pl With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops. $$ Le Cedre 84 (B3) Al. Solidarności 84, tel. 22 618 8999, open 11:00-23:00, www.lecedre.pl Le Cedre just keep on getting it right. Authenticity is key in this chainlette (well, there’s another across the river), as you’ll discover when talking to Tony, the Lebanese owner. To see the diversity of this cuisine, order the balbaak (six cold starters) or the byblos (six hot).

And food aside, it’s the atmosphere that carries them that extra yard: the whole philosophy of this cuisine is to share and share alike, making it a uniquely engaging

Rediscover Lebanese cuisine this summer Le Cedre 61

opposite the zoo Al. Solidarności 61, Praga Tel 22 670 11 66

Le Cedre 84

opposite the court Al. Solidarności 84 Tel 22 618 89 99

www.lecedre.pl

64

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2015

listings / restaurants experience when dining with friends. $$ Meza Beirut (D4) ul. Ordynacka 13, tel. 22 692 7555, open Sun-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-2:00, mezabeirut.pl God knows how many restaurants have chanced their luck in this location, though Meza Beirut look a better bet than most to break the hex. Lebaneserun, the menu here is comprehensive with all the requisite hot and cold mezze and grilled and skewered meats. Early feedback has been largely positive, with decent prices and fresh flavors doing their bit to stir local interest. $$ Sokotra (D5) ul. Wilcza 27, tel. 22 270 2766, open Mon-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.sokotra.pl A Yemeni restaurant with a brief menu full of recognizable Eastern dishes like hummus and grilled halloumi. And one of the big boons is the discovery that Indian influences also fall under the compass of Yemeni cuisine – the madras leaves you puffing smoke rings. Find all that in a casual interior composed of chattery locals and mysterious concrete additions – e.g. a telegraph pole squeezed amid the tables. $$

polish Ale Gloria (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7080, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.alegloria.pl Who said romance was dead? Here wedding white colors are fused with a strawberry motif inside this gourmet fave. Keeping patrons returning are aromatic dishes with a contemporary twist – try the duck in rose sauce. $$$

Amber Room at the Sobański Palace (E6) Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat 12:00-22:30; Sun 12:00-20:00, www.amberroom.pl The Amber Room is, indeed, a bit of a treasure.

You know all the chefs we bang on about in this mag? Bottom line, the good ones came through via this kitchen. But this is more than a training ground for future stars, it’s a place that remains on the cutting edge in spite of its seemingly straight look. Positioned

inside a majestic villa, the food is pure contemporary Poland, and well deserving of its Michelin nod. For that, thank chef Robert Skubisz. $$$ Atelier Amaro (E6) ul. Agrykola 1, tel. 22 628 5747, open Mon-Sat 12:00-14:30; 18:00-22:30, www. atelieramaro.pl The recipient of Poland’s only Michelin star, Atelier promotes pedigree Polish produce enhanced by modern techniques, with courses interspersed by occasionally bizarre interludes (leaves, flowers, twigs, etc.). Don’t miss the bespoke vodka menu, either. It’s an extraordinary dining experience, and one which confirms the growing cult of chef Wojciech Amaro. In the hours you’re here, the world stops and you leave feeling like James Bond. Reservations are mandatory, with a waiting list that is approximately two to three months long. $$$ BEST WAWA 2014 “Presentation” Bazyliszek (D1) Rynek Starego Miasto 1/3, tel. 22 831 1841, open daily 12:00-24:00, www.bazyliszek. waw.pl Some parts of Bazyliszek hark to its years as a stately, stuffy restaurant.

Now though it’s more earthy, with Jurassic portions of meaty, lardy food best consumed with one-liter beers. The Rynek location and festive atmosphere account for its popularity more than anything that comes from the kitchen. $

Belvedere Łazienki Królewskie ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. 22 558 6701, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-20:00, belvedere.com.pl Regarded as one of the great names on Warsaw’s culinary carousel, this restaurant never ceases to impress: set in a imperial age glass orangery, it’s festooned with intricate latticework and botanical exotica. The updated interiors are the work of acclaimed set designer Boris Kudlicka, and lend a fresh, contemporary tone that goes hand in hand with Adam Komar’s menu. But behind the gels and emulsions and pretty little swirls, this is cooking of substantial depth; it’s cooking that takes you to the very soul of Polish nature. $$$ Bistro Warszawa (D1) ul. Jezuicka 1/3, tel. 22 635 3769, open www.warsawinsider.pl

65

listings / restaurants daily 12:00-24:00, www.bistrowarszawa.pl The menu cites pre-war recipe books as its influence, and on it you’ll find such dishes as goose in thyme sauce with pear and zucchini. The interiors are strictly contemporary though, with vanilla colored furnishings, wine racks and walls papered with hundreds of theater scripts and book pages. Regular jazz performances draw people city-wide. $$

Czerwony Wieprz (Red Hog) (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 22 850 3144, open daily 12:0024:00 (kitchen to 23:00), www.czerwonywieprz.pl Now everyone is rich and happy, it’s easy to forget communism was a pretty dire experiment. Which explains the playful nature of this commie themed restaurant. Dining is done under red banners and paintings of nasty political activists, while the menu is a humorous affair divided between dishes for the dignitary and proletariat – all details that

saw it names as one of the Top 25 Unique Restaurants in the World. Another vodka, comrade, and the First Secretary’s pork loins while you’re there! $$ Dawne Smaki (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 49, tel. 22 465 83 20, open Sun-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-1:00, www.dawnesmaki.pl At last, a proper restaurant on Nowy Świat! The interiors hark to the past, while the back garden promises an oasis-like experience: if you’re new to Warsaw, it’s actually worth hanging around till summer just to see it. Chef Michał Bajerski, formerly of Regina Hotel, wraps it up nicely with a fantastic menu that modernizes traditional Polish recipes. Recommended: deer steak. $$ Delicja Polska (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 64, tel. 22 826 4770, open daily 12:00-last guest, www. delicjapolska.pl Looking stately (pink bows, gilt touches and immaculate linen) but never stuffy, Delicja have a modern Polish menu

that includes sous-vide salmon marinated in beetroot leave, then topped with horseradish foam and dill emulsion. Brilliant. But then so was everything else we tried, including the exquisite seasoned roast beef. $$

Dom Polski (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 2432, open daily 12:00-last guest, www.restauracjadompolski.pl Almost like it was designed for the manor born, Dom Polski has the rarefied atmosphere of a country retreat: bow-tied staff who click their heels, decorative antiques and a menu that’s a sumptuous anthology of posh Polish cooking.

When you need to give visitors a sense of classic Warsaw, Dom Polski is the first out of the hat. $$$ Dom Polski Belwederska (F8) ul. Belwederska 18A, tel. 22 840 5060, open 12:00-23:00, restauracjadompolski.pl The perfect complement to their older sister

Spanish owner, Spanish chef… SPANISH SOUL! ul. Grzybowska 63 (next to the Hilton Hotel) 00-844 Warszawa +48 22 251 1310 www.tapasgastrobar.pl

66

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2015

listings / restaurants on Francuska, the new offshoot of Dom Polski features a beautiful look that draws heavily on classic, almost noble inspirations.

As for the garden, that in itself is a fairytale that requires exploration. The menu is as you’d expect, a modernized take on the traditional, with the game dishes an emphatic favorite. $$

Folk Gospoda (B3) ul. Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605, open daily 12:00-midnight, www.folkgospoda.pl Be honest, sometimes all you want to do is slather lard on a big hunk of bread before surrounding yourself with little shots of ice cold vodka. You wouldn’t call it cultivated, but there are occasions when a good knees-up around a rough wooden table is exactly what’s required. And while you’re there, why not add platters of meat to the scene, a

crackling fireplace and a mountain band. Folk Gospoda do all that making them the default favorite for a traditional night out. $$ Halka Restaurcja po polsku ul. Puławska 43, tel. 509 593 305, open Mon-Fri 11:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-22:00, restauracjahalka.pl Named in honor of one of Poland’s best known operas, Halka offer a glimpse of old school Warsaw. Having relocated from downtown Pańska, the new address is a cut and paste of the former location: lots of glinting surfaces, ornate crockery and pink flower arrangements. Innovation is surrendered for a menu that deals in classic interpretations of upmarket Polish food: rabbit, goose, duck and other animals shot on country estates.

Jaś & Małgosia (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 57, tel. 502 033 711, klubjasimalgosia.pl Back from the dead!

An institution dating from the 60s, Jaś & Małgosia have reopened after a three year hiatus. Updated they might be, but the

design (concrete floors, exposed brickwork) features several nods to the past – not least a replica of the famous neon that once crowned the roof. The menu was designed in collaboration with Aleksander Baron, and while unglamorous and uncomplicated is food that represents all that’s good about the Polish kitchen: thick soups, fresh vegetables and hefty meat. Most of all, it makes you feel good on a wet, windy day. $ Kafe Zielony Niedwiedz (E4) ul. Smolna 4, tel. 731 996 006, open 8:00-23:00. The Smolna address is a bit misleading – in reality, you’ll be traipsing down into the park under the ‘hammer head’ tower before reaching Zbyszek Kmieć’s restaurant. But you’ll be glad you did. The menu has hints of Atelier Amaro in its fiendish attention to natural Polish produce: the cream of beetroot soup is peerless, and the boar ragout gains similar approval. This is a happy marriage where traditions are turned on their head using creative techniques and precise presentation. At the same time, be

Krakowskie Przedmieście 64 tel. +48 22 826 4770 email. info@delicjapolska.pl www.delicjapolska.pl

www.warsawinsider.pl

67

listings / restaurants warned the scene here might not appeal: it’s very stars in your eyes as Polish celebs – both major and minor – swan about while their acolytes simper. $$

Kuchnia Funkcjonalna (G3) ul. Jakubowska 16 (enter from ul. Estońska), tel. 512 893 898, open Mon-Thu 11:0023:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-23:00 Snuck inside one of Saska’s definitive modernist buildings, Kuchnia make slow food accessible to

all wallets. Venison from the Bieszczady Mountains, dairy products from Jersey cattle milk, and the use of goose fat instead of butter are just a few noteworthy characteristics; the frequently changing menu reflects the commitment to nature. The ascetic design is softened by a cast-iron stove and moody lighting, giving the restaurant a warm, seasonal glow, while the garden gives people the opportunity to eavesdrop the big concerts at the stadium next door! $$ Mała Polana Smaków (F9) ul. Belwederska 13/44, tel. 22 400 8048, open 12:00-22:00, polanasmakow.pl Put simply, it works on every level: from the service to the space – outside, a terrace featuring upcycled crates overlooking Morskie Oko, and on the inside, a cute little room with woodsy bits and big glass jars of mystery ingredients. It’s casual, but still fit for more serious roles: e.g. girlfriend night.

And the food: exceptional. Lots of seasonally changing choices that on our visit meant salmon sausage matched with beetroot and horseradish sauce along with pinches of lavender and fennel. $$ Oycowizna ul. Słoneczna 241 (Lesznowola), tel. 22 713 8993, open 11:00-23:00, oycowizna. pl A bucolic country cottage set 20 clicks from Warsaw is home to this charmer of a hotel / restaurant. Filled with hanging pots, pans and horseshoes, there’s something authentically Polish about it all. Same goes for the menu, which is a deliciously filling rundown of the Old Polish kitchen. $$

Papu (D9) al. Niepodległości 132/136, tel. 22 856 7788, open 11:00-22:30, restauracjapapu. pl The elegant décor sees wood-paneled walls lined with champagne bottles, making it an experience that is at once intimate and romantic. Chef Bartek Kędra’s menu is specifically strong when it comes to white and red meats, while the wine list has been endorsed by Andrzej Strzelczyk, Poland’s champion sommelier. $$ Podwale Piwna Kompania (D2) ul. Podwale 25, tel. 22 635 6314, open MonSat 11:00-01:00; Sun 12:00-24:00, www. podwale25.pl Set through a courtyard that replicates a Mitteleuropa square, Podwale

70

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2015

has a beer hall atmosphere that’s further exaggerated when mountain bands circulate.

Food is of average standard and served in portions that are obscene – finishing the wooden platters can be seriously traumatic.

Go there for the experience, if nothing else. $ Prasowy (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16, open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-19:00 Delicate diners turn their back on milk bars, yet this canteen-style phenomenon, with its history rooted in communism, has enjoyed a remarkable renaissance and a freshly found popularity with a new generation. Sure, the food is an acquired taste and best described using words like ‘basic’ and ‘honest’, but Prasowy gets our vote for a cool design that’s seen the 1954 interiors sensitively updated. $ Przystawki (B1) ul. Stawki 3, tel. 22 299 1619, open 10:00-22:00, przystawki.com Welcome to Muranów: the black hole of local gastronomy.

But change is in the air – first came the opening of Jaś i Małgosia, and now comes Przy Stawki. Both keep it simple, gunning for a straight forward menu that presents the kind of cooking you’d like to see at the in-laws: local ingredients cooked with care.

In a nutshell, this is Polish home cooking at moderate prices. More places like this, please. $ Restauracja Pod Gigantami (E5) Al. Ujadowskie 24, tel. 22 629 2312, open daily 12:00-23:00, www.podgigantami. pl Despite being judged worthy of a recommendation by the scouts at Michelin, Pod Gigantami divides local opinion; it’s not just the Insider that’s found the food only satisfactory. But the wine list impresses, as do the painfully ornate turn-of-the-century interiors. $$$ Restauracja Polska “Różana” (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 22 848 1225, open 12:00-last guest, www.restauracjarozana. com.pl The rarified atmosphere of Różana is a pleasure indeed. Close to the frontline of Mokotów / Śródmieście, you’d never guess the proximity of the center. Seated in their garden, one feels removed from the city – a fountain burbles quietly in the background, starlings hop around the trees.

From the inside, one hears the distant tinkle of the house pianist. Just being here is a thrill in itself, and the food is a Polish dining extravaganza served from the top table:

listings / restaurants farmhouse duck, saddle of venison, etc.

Słoik (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 600 396 688, open Mon-Fri 10:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-23:00, restauracjasloik.pl Jarheads will love Słoik, a place lined with glass jars brimming with colorful ingredients and bright preserves.

Find natural Polish produce and traditionalsounding dishes treated with a careful and contemporary hand. The approach pits modernist against classic, and the winner is, well, you. This is traditional Polish food updated for the discerning, latter day palate – and it’s really quite something. $$

Stary Dom ul. Puławska 104/106, tel. 22 646 4208, open 12:00-23:30, restauracjastarydom.pl A classic restaurant in style and history: back in the day it was a favorite haunt of jockeys and race goers from the horse track nearby.

Pre-war recipes form the basis of the menu, with the team using seasonal produce and the latest technology to bring out its best. $$ U Fukiera (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 27 (Old Town Market Square), tel. 22 831 1013, open 12:00-last guest, www.ufukiera.pl New arrivals looking to get a grasp of local cuisine have many options in varying price brackets. U Fukiera is definitely in the big spend category, but visitors come away with a common sense of wonderment. That’s largely due to enchanting interiors that have guests exploring twinkling chambers that unravel like a fairytale. Set in a 500 year old townhouse, the beautiful backdrop is accompanied by a grand menu of venison, veal and lamb. $$$

Zapiecek Locations inc. ul. Nowy Świat 64, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska 13, tel. 22 635 61 09, open 11:00-23:00 & ul. Wańkowicza 1, open 11:00-22:00, CH Arkadia, open 10:00-22:00, www. zapiecek.eu Seven Warsaw locales, with

our favorite found in the vaulted passages of Świętojańska. The menu is highly traditional, with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’.

It’s for the pierogi though for which they’re famous; find approx. fifty types delivered by servers dressed like saucy country maids. $

Zielnik (D10) ul. Odyńca 15, tel. 22 844 3500, open 10:0023:30, restauracjazielnik.pl A quiet Mokotów side street is the setting for this little secret.

In it, flowers, lots of them, and a warming wood interior just right for winter. And then the food arrives: dainty veal dumplings, and tender braised veal that’s good for the chills.

You leave knowing you have eaten honestly and well. $$

so simple, but Hoża have taken two simple pleasures to another level. It’s a vibrant space with service right out of charm school, and a kitchen team with a real knowledge of cows. A red-blooded affair, the menu is a steak sensation and well paired with a handpicked wine list. $$ Merliniego 5 (E10) ul. Merliniego 5, tel. 22 646 0810, www. merliniego5.pl A classic looking steakhouse that swirls in shadow, brickwork and elegant touches, it’s a place to immerse yourself in an atmosphere that’s all surreptitious conversa-

scandinavian Nabo ul. Zakręt 8, tel. 22 842 0256, open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:30; Sat-Sun 9:00-21:30, www. nabocafe.pl The décor is, we’re told, typical Danish cafe – bold open windows, simple lines, high shelves filled with books and games on the table. But what is Danish food?

There’s Old Danish on the menu: meatballs and open face sandwiches with meat and fish in various textural configurations and then there’s New Danish: an emerging trend towards fresh, seasonal food (no microwave oven at Nabo), with locally sourced and innovatively concocted ingredients. $$

RESTAURANT & COCKTAIL BAR

restaurant with a cocktail bar in the BUSTLING center of Warsaw, invites YOU to TASTE THE BEST OF Polish cuisine.

steak houses Butchery & Wine (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 502 3118, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00, www. butcheryandwine.pl Has it really been that long? Opened to wide acclaim in 2011, Butchery & Wine stirred Warsaw’s appetite for quality red meat. Served on wooden boards by staff in butchers aprons, the steaks are beyond reproach and the wine list suited to the meat fest in front. Many hail this as Poland’s best steak, and you can definitely see where they’re coming from. $$ Hoża (D5) ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 603 778 275, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, hoza.warszawa.pl Wine and steak: it sounds www.warsawinsider.pl

71

listings / restaurants tion and distant clinking glasses. The steaks are out-of-this world, with USDA prime beef from New York’s legendary Ottomanelli & Sons and Scottish beef from London’s Smithfield Market. On our last visit we splurged on the Grade 9+ wagyu ‘kobe’ rib-eye and found ourselves eating the steak of a lifetime.

Simply amazing. $$$

Salto (C6) ul. Wilcza 73, tel.

22 584 8771, www. saltorestauracja.pl When Martin Gimenez Castro scooped top prize in the Top Chef program it simply confirmed what foodies had known for years: that this is a man of some talent. Now leading the kitchen in Salto, the highlight of Castro’s menu is undoubtedly the ‘steak weekends’. We challenge you to find better. During the week opt instead for his South American inspired dishes. Salto has the hallmarks of a success story, and under Castro’s captaincy that’s a certainty to happen. $$$

thai Basil & Lime (E8) ul. Puławska 27, tel. 22 126 1943, open 11:00-23:00, www.basil-lime.pl Reports have been hit and miss, with one Insider noting calamitous service and food that was both over and undercooked. Not on our visit, though. Short and to the point, the menu is defined by its clarity, and we enjoyed a phenomenal yellow curry and banana fritters with the right combo of crunch and goo.

Beautifully decorated with charcoal colors and punches of lime, the Insider felt good long after visiting. Will you? $$ my’o’tai ul. Szpitalna 8 (enter on Górskiego), tel.

662 742 901, open Mon-Thu 12:00-24:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-3:00, Sun 12:00-21:00 While the menu lacks standard Thai dishes (no noodles!?), the tastes are thoroughly authentic and a credit to chef Trisno Hamidis. The caramelized spicy chicken wings are so good you’ll think about ordering them twice. $$

Thai Thai (C2) Pl. Teatralny 3, tel. 601 818 283, open 12:00-23:00, www.thaithai.pl In terms of design it’s little short of perfect: gold vaulted interiors lend a muted glow to a largely black on black space while serene looking Buddha’s peer on the diners below.

As for the food, that’s one big success story with plenty of lively flavors and vibrant colors.

The Tom Yang Kung, a deeply nourishing fish broth that awakens the senses with a sharp, spicy jolt, is a must! $$

Thaisty (C2) pl. Bankowy 4, tel. 730 000 024, thaisty.pl The coup here has been the recruitment of Chanunkan Duangkumma, Warsaw’s favorite Thai chef. Previews suggest a contemporary space in line with city trends, and a menu built around recipes passed down Duangkumma’s family line. Opened in mid-May,

Slow food and a slow life philosophy inside an urban interior and a luxury wine and spirits list. Our kitchen uses only high quality regional and ecological produce. tel. 22 623 02 90, www.dwietrzecie.waw.pl

72

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2015

listings / restaurants reports that have filtered back suggest this could well emerge as a local great. We finally visited for the full lowdown this issue (yes, yes, we took our time) and can’t say enough about it, see page 32 for more.

urban markets Bazar Olkuska (E10) ul. Olkuska 12, open Mon-Fri 8:00-19:00; Sat 7:30-16:00 Once a sad little side street, Olkuska has evolved to become just about the worst kept secret in Warsaw. Home to the city’s top eco-market, trips here end with shopping bags filled with French cheeses, Italian hams, Hungarian sausages and fresh fruit and veg. And don’t miss a chat with the nation’s most celebrated butcher: Pan Grzegorz of Crazy Butcher.

Bio Bazar (B4) ul. Żelazna 51/53, tel. 22 318 8855, open Sat 8:00-16:00 Fruit and veg in the first warehouse, some of it imported from as far as Argentina. In the second warehouse, find organic cheese varieties from sheep and goats, as well as import brands from Italy, France and the Netherlands.

Le Targ ul. Mińska 25 (SOHO Factory), tel. 603 051 116, open Sat 10:00-15:00 Find here a rather random array of products: stands display traditional meats, goat’s cheeses, unconventional preserves, Greek products, vegan ingredients… it all still seems a bit like a work in progress.

Targ Śniadaniowy al. Wojska Polskiego, tel. 508 121 891, open Sat 8:00-16:00, www.targsniadaniowy.pl The idea is a bit different as it is out in the open air, on the grass, so good weather is a must.

Part healthy food market, part breakfast picnic, part educational space, part chance to get your two wheeler fixed but above all, an idyllic way to spend a Saturday morning in a beautiful part of town.

whole foods Jamniczek ul. Marszałkowska 68/70, open 11:00-21:00 This small dual-level nook specializes in vegan hot dogs and healthy non-alc cocktails.

Foregoing factory floor snips and tails, principle fillings include millet, tofu and

spinach. Taste-wise it does well, but you can’t help but feel they’ve got the proportions all wrong: heaps of salad, massive baguettes, but only a thin little ‘dog’ in the middle. $ Krowarzywa (D5) ul. Hoża 42, tel. 516 894 767, open Sun-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00 Even committed meat eaters concede there’s something special here. This is a burger bar with a difference: the stuff between the bun is vegan – and way superior to the majority of ‘proper’ burger bars. Very popular with the local hipsters, so anticipate bewildering fashion statements and eccentric hair. Now also on Marszałkowska. $ Lokal Vegan Bistro (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, 517 615 122, open TueSun 12:00-21:00 The interior looks a little like a New Age milk bar, the kind that’s left the design down to IKEA, but looking at the above-counter menu you soon realize there’s more to this place than meets the eye. While you can’t say the food is ‘meat imitation’ the kebab that goes some way to proving fast food doesn’t need to be junk food. $

Traditional Polish cuisine Best venison and lamb in Warsaw Live music Regional wine, beer and spirits Grand Kredens - 16 years full of tradition

Loving Hut (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 41A, tel. 888 555 568, open Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00; Sun 12:00-20:00, What looks like just another Vietnamese greasy spoon is, in fact, part of a global chain backed by a spiritual master. The reading material is creepy and cultish, but the vegan food is good if you’re that way inclined. Now also found downtown on Waryńskiego 3. $ Vegan Pizza ul. Poznańska 7, open 12:00-22:00 While the place lacks effort on the design front, the pizza is pretty good. There’s 24 to pick from, and while it’s not love at first bite, there’s a tendency to get strangely hooked by the new tastes and alien sensations. Definitely an interesting departure from the high street pizzerias. Recommended: Italian Madness – melty cheese and herby bursts of pesto. $ W Gruncie Rzeczy (D5) ul. Hoża 62, tel. 692 464 489, open 10:00-23:00 A vegan haven whose menu is heavily slanted towards local produce. The offer includes a number of vegan pastes, sandwiches, beetroot burgers and soups (e.g. cream of pumpkin with coconut milk). The presence of equally hip Meat Love next door is something of a foil, with the two neighbors naturally complimenting each other. $

Aleje Jerozolimskie 111 tel. +48 22 629 80 08 Mob. +48 697 900 000 kredens@kredens.com.pl www.kredens.com.pl Follow us on Facebook www.warsawinsider.pl

73

cafes & wine bars NEW & NOTEWORTHY

DROP JUICE BAR (ul. Sienna 81, enter from Żelazna) Whether your body is a temple or a dustbin, squeeze in a visit to the Drop Juice bar (enter through the slidey door leading to the MD Clinic). Specializing in cold pressed juices, smoothies and superfoods, they make a point of using natural products only. And if you’re getting your drinks ‘to go’, note their customized bottles and cups allow you to store them for up to three days in the fridge.

THINK LOVE JUICES (ul. Francuska 14) Nutrition nut and supermodel Anna Jagodzińska reveals the secrets of her diet in this white-clad, summery-looking Saska café. As the name indicates, juice plays a massive part in that, with the rotating choice presenting a range of drinks that run from watermelon water all the way up to complex concoctions that ignore any shortcuts. The daily changing lunch deals are superb, but leave you in no doubt just why models are so skinny. Fortunately, that means there’s plenty of room for the health-minded cakes.

74

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2015

bakeries Aromat (C4) ul. Sienna 39, tel. 22 620 0819, open Mon-Fri 7:00-19:00; Sat 8:00-16:00 We’re told the interiors were purposefully kept neutral to keep the focus on the product – and crikey, what bread. French flour and an expert baker ensure brilliant results, while the lemon éclairs deserve their own Facebook page. Some claim it’s the best bakery in Poland, and we’re not arguing.

Café Vincent (D3) ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. 22 828 0115, open Sun-Thu 6:30-24:00; Fri-Sat 6:30-1:00 Ex-pats from France, a nation of master bakers if ever there were, profess Vincent to be their favorite Warsaw bakery. And they’re not alone. Queues build quickly as locals line up to buy baguettes, cinnamon rolls, lemon croissants and beautiful pains au chocolat. But people don’t just head in then out, a small wine list and brilliant people spying opportunities cause most to linger.

Charlotte (D6) Al. Wyzwolenia 18 (enter from pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 662 204 555, bistrocharlotte. com The battle lines are drawn: on one side it’s the slobs of Plan B, and on the other the snobs of Charlotte. While the fancy crowd (all jangling Porsche keys and idiotic selfies) isn’t to everyone’s liking, Charlotte’s baked goods are commonly hailed as things of rare beauty.

Petit Appetit (E6) ul. Mokotowska 45, open Mon-Sat 8:00-19:00; Sun 8:00-18:00 The smell of freshly-baked loaves often wafts into the street, leaving passers-by with no option but to peer in – sweet temptation.

And sweet is the right word: aside from divine baguettes check the pastries and brioches.

SAM (E3) ul. Lipowa 7, tel. 606 836 836, www.sam. info.pl A central, communal table is flanked

listings / cafés & wine bars by smaller satellite tables for parties of two to four while perky seasonal blooms and potted herbs lend a spark of freshness. Co-owner Małgorzata Kusina-Doran is a fine-bread connoisseur, honing her skills at a bread-making course chaired by Raymond Blanc.

cafés Bar Studio (C4) Pl. Defilad 1, tel. 603 300 835, open SunThu 10:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-2:45 The ascetic, modern décor is intentional – both not to compete with the fine adornment of the original walls and to break through the building’s grandiose airs. It’s hard not to be overawed by the sheer gigantism of the Palace that looms above. It seamlessly slips from café during the day into its more culturally active persona in the evenings, with concerts, film screenings, plays and political discussions.

Bułkę przez Bibułkę (E8) ul. Puławska 24, tel. 794 000 634, open Mon-Fri 8:00-22:00; Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-16:00, www.bulkeprzezbibulke.pl There’s a feminine style to this cafe, what with its cute, girly pastels, petite plant pots and woodsy finishes. But no matter what your gender or age, there’s something immediately sunny and positive about this place. Slow food sandwiches arrive on wooden boards, there’s pretty homemade desserts and a careful choice of wine: falling in love with it is easy.

Być Może (E7) ul. Bagatela 14, tel. 519 000 014, open 7:00-23:00, www.bycmoze.com.pl It’s all about artisan bread and breakfast in the industrial looking Być Może. It’s taken the concept of Charlotte (groan, there’s even a communal table), and improved it with excellent breads and a crowd that’s a little less pleased with itself and a little more normal.

Café Lorentz (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 3, tel. 606 699 199, open Mon-Wed 10:00-20:00; Thu 10:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-20:00; Sun 10:00-19:00, www.cafelorentz.pl Set at the front of the National Museum this place has a nice indoor area with high ceilings and minimalist decorations and a green outdoor area populated by wickers chairs and hammocks.

As is the rage in Warsaw, the menu is light, natural and healthy.

Chłodna 25 (B3) ul. Chłodna 25, tel. 604 614 287, open MonFri 9:00-22:00; Sat 11:00-22:00; Sun 12:0022:00 It’s back! Under new management, this Warsaw legend has been reclaimed from the hipsters and given over to the creative classes. A place of creaking floorboards, retro armchairs and bookshelves in the process of being filled, that this neighborhood hangout draws more than just neighbors is evidence of its greatness. And the really good bit?

They’ve now got beer (Bojan, Lwówek and Goralskie) – let joy be unconfined!

Chmiel Café (D4) ul. Chmielna 27/31, open Sun-Thu 10:0022:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-last guest, chmielcafe.pl Rows and rows of Belgian beers occupy the shelves, while behind the counter find pedigree treats, cakes and ice cream from the Slow Food approved Consonni brand.

Forget the industrial rubbish, the ice cream produced by this lot is an absolute standout.

With the outdoor terrace making its debut, it’s the ideal family solution with something for everyone.

Cophi (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 513 422 908, open 7:30-20:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-17:00 Deviating away from ‘the Warsaw look’ (i.e. concrete, pipes, etc.), Cophi is the kind of place you actually want to stay in: homey and intimate but at the same time light and modern. You can sense the thought and passion behind this operation from the staff – find them using Aeropress, Chemex, siphon and drip methods with almost scientific precision in their quest to serve you what some are already claiming to be Warsaw’s best coffee.

Crepe Café (E3) ul. Dobra 19, tel. 22 121 2275, open 8:0020:00 Is there such a thing as the perfect pancake? If not, then Crepe Café certainly comes close. Enjoy them in a contemporary interior that’s tiny in size: grab a seat up on the mezzanine level.

Cukiernia Stary Dom ul. Puławska 104/106, tel. 22 646 4208, open 12:00-23:30, restauracjastarydom.pl A beautifully elegant confectionary that evokes memories of Old Poland. Flock wallpaper and checkered floors add to the high tea ambi-

ence, as do the lines of glinting bottles and a counter stocked with temptations. Pastry chef Mariusz Palarczykow is a king in his field.

Czuły Barbarzyńca ul. Dobra 31, open 10:00-22:00; Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, czuly.pl A Parisian-style bookstore full of steps and wobbles, nooks and alcoves. All agree there’s something special here: maybe it’s the book selection – varied, esoteric and at once compelling. Or maybe it’s the atmosphere, such that browsers anchor themselves on the sofas to lose an afternoon with their nose in a novel while sipping drip coffee. Whatever the secret ingredient is, the bookish bustle makes it the most extraordinary literary hangout in the Polish capital.

Fawory ul. Mickiewicza 21, tel. 791 096 725, open Mon-Thur 8:00-22:00; Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 10:00-22:00 An intimate neighborhood cafe that comes complete with mugs that announce: “Fresh Coffee Tastes Better”. You bet it does. The smoothies and regional beers are just as good though, and come served inside a white interior splashed with an awesome mural.

Kafka Café (E3) ul. Oboźna 3, tel. 22 826 0822, open 9:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00, www. kawiarnia-kafka.pl A chessboard floor and a collection of antlers on the wall characterize Kafka, a bookstore / café whose literary collection is composed of paperbacks rescued from recycling plants. Books are purchased by their weight (zł. 10 per kilo) while the menu includes pancakes, pastas and even doggy treats for your mutt.

KluboKawiarnia Towarzyska ul. Zwycięzców 49, tel. 22 270 2179, open 11:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00, www. klubokawiarnia.net Urban cool penetrates Saska. With an interior modeled by John Strumiłło, this 50s pavilion has an ascetic design defined by polar white interiors.

Contrast is provided downstairs, with deep magenta walls and retro armchairs. Concerts, screenings and art happenings have made it into something of local cultural mainstay.

Krucza 23 Café & Bakery ul. Krucza 23, open Mon-Fri 7:30-20:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-20:00 They didn’t spend much time thinking about the name, that’s a given, but that’s not to say creativity is www.warsawinsider.pl

75

listings / cafés & wine bars entirely absent. There’s lots of organic activity on the menu, plus an exciting spread of eco-coffee from far-flung nations. Find all this done in a post-industrial interior that makes use of lots of concrete and natural light.

Między Nami (D4) ul. Bracka 20, tel. 22 828 5417, open MonWed 10:00-23:00; Thu 10:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun14:00-23:00, www.miedzynamicafe.com With 18 years of service under their belt you may think of Między Nami as being an antiquated has-been. Not so. Haunted by a mix of media types and local characters, this hip white piece of post-commie Warsaw has an enduring, almost timeless appeal.

Ministerstwo Kawy (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 27/35, tel. 503 080 906, open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:0022:00, www.ministerstwokawy.pl Sourcing their coffee from Koppi, an internationally acclaimed Swedish roasting house, the ministry takes no short cuts in their pursuit of excellence. Utilizing Ethiopian, Costa Rican and Brazilian arabicas – some exclusive to Poland – barista Wojciech Rzytki has earned a reputation across Poland for his expert hand. Rave reviews are standard and appropriate in this standout cafe.

BEST WAWA 2014 “Coffee” Niezłe Ziółko Café & Deli (D5) ul. Krucza 17, tel. 664 844 439, open MonFri 8:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-19:00 A shrine to pure and healthy eating, this friendly café doesn’t just brew a great coffee, but bakes its own bread and produces its own yogurt. Sit in the loft to look down on shoppers scurrying to Mokotowska, and on the way out, check out ‘Grandma’s Cupboard’ in the corner: jams, spreads and olive oils are there to buy for home.

Państwo Miasto (B1) ul. Andersa 29, tel. 22 400 9446, open 9:00-24:00, panstwomiasto.pl Is there anything better than sitting in a café, book in hand, while spring sunshine pours through the windows? We go to Państwo to do just that, an echoy, cavernous café with a young, lively crowd that’s keen on scholastic events and political causes. Never does it feel too trendy, or too hipster – it’s a place that’s all about atmosphere and friendship.

Relaks (E9) ul. Puławska 48, open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00;

76

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2015

Sat 9:00-19:00; Sun 9:00-18:00 Generally travelling by tram for a cup of Joe sounds excessive, but that’s exactly what you’ll be doing on discovering Relaks. Expertly prepared, right down to the foam art, the baristas here use the finest imported machines and work only with fair trade, ‘specialty’ coffee. If you have time, the drip coffees are more than worth the wait. The interiors supply a retro accent, and are lapped up by a very fashion aware crowd.

ice cream Fabryka Lodów Tradycjnych ul. Tamka 31 & ul. Marszałkowska 85, fabrykalodowtradycyjnych.pl Ice cream season is on us, and as we learnt last summer, Warsaw has moved beyond the strawberry and vanilla stage. Now it’s all about blueberry or chocolate and chili. Find both of the aforementioned in Fabryka, a parlor that prides itself on its natural ingredients and daily changing offer.

La Maison (B3) ul. Chłodna 15 The flavors aren’t the most experimental found in Warsaw, but we’ve yet to find a better strawberry ice cream in the city: it’s stuff that makes you go ‘wow’.

Limoni Canteri 1952 (E9) various locations, inc. Dąbrowskiego 1 An artisan Italian gelato stop. The Venetianborn owner thrives on experimentation, with traditional flavors matched by the inclusion of oddities such as cucumber, beer and, even, ice cream for your dog!

Sucre ul. Mokotowsa 12, ul. Żurawia 26, ul.

Chmielna 26, sucre.pl Nothing more than a hole-in-a-wall, and yet ever since opening last year Sucre have come to be considered the best in the trade when it comes to natural ice cream. Let the steady queue speak for itself.

wine bars Ale Wino! (E5) ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 628 3830, open Mon-Tue 10:00-22:00; Wed-Sat 10:00-24:00, www.alewino.pl At first you think you’re walking into a car park. And then, it hits you – a beautiful inner-city sanctum with wooden decking, a slanted sail shielding the sun, and bespoke, funky chairs

from the esteemed Studio Rygalik. You want to dwell here for a bit longer than planned: and there’s no harm in doing so. One of the Insider’s favorite wine bars, Ale Wino’s food is also top-notch. BEST WAWA 2014 “Wine Bar” Hoża (D5) ul. Hoża 25a, tel. 515 037 001, open MonSat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, www.hoza.warszawa.pl You’ll probably know Hoża as the home of steak. But what is meat without wine? Complimenting the Argentineinspired cooking is a wine list particularly dense with reds.

Mielżyński Wine Bar (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 636 8709, open Mon-Fri 9:00-23:00; Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 11:30-17:00, www.mielzynski.pl Robert Mielżyński, a Canadian-born oenologist, awakened Warsaw’s love affair with the grape when he launched Mielżyński in 2004, and it continues to serve as the accepted benchmark to which all wine bars aspire.

Their cause is amply boosted by a fine selection of bites to accompany the superlative wine offer. Find it in a pared down warehouse that emanates casual city cool.

Mielżyński Wine Bar (G9) ul. Czerska 12, www.mielzynski.pl After three years in the pipeline Warsaw’s second outpost of Mielżyński is everything you’d expect: a concise menu that’s never too complex and an exciting wine choice that presents over 500 labels. This vibrant space promises much, not least on account of an inner terrace deck that you know is going to be the talk of this summer.

VinoTrio ul. Marszałkowska 76, tel. 22 826 1697, open Mon 12:00-21:00; Tue-Fri 11:00-21:00; Sat 10:00-21:00, vinotrio.pl Specializing in French, Spanish and Italian wine, VinoTrio touts price points that appeal to all incomes – bottles begin at zł. 30.

WinKolekcja (E10) ul. Olkuska 7, tel. 22 542 8031, open Mon-Sat 12.00-23.00; Sun 12.00-20.00, www.winkolekcja.pl The selection of New World wines is exceptional, though classicists are also catered for via an extensive choice of Spanish, French and Italian wines. Their highly recommended restaurant provides further reason to linger inside a design that has the routine look of a club class lounge.

To see Chmiel Café at its best visit in summer when our pretty garden terrace provides the perfect opportunity to cool off in the shade while the city bustles around you.

And with temperatures rising, what better way to chill down than with gourmet ice cream from the artisanal Consonni brand, or a cold Belgian beer from our exhaustive collection.

12% discount on beer if you tell our staff “Belgian beer is the best!”

Chmiel Café ul. Chmielna 27/31, chmielcafe.pl

nightlife NEW & NOTABLE

PERŁOWA BISTRO (ul. Bracka 18) Created to showcase Perła’s full skillset, this newbie matches seven taps from Poland’s best ‘big brewery’ to smart interiors splashed with light industrial touches. Choices include cult drops such as Zwierzyniec, Perła Koźlak and Perła Mocna, with prices topping out at zł. 9 per pint. In a massive plus the menu goes beyond the standard meat and two veg options normally associated with a brewery pub; instead, treat yourself to a thoughtful menu that’s as big on presentation as it is on taste.

WARSZAWA KULTURALNA (ul. Żurawia 6/12) It’s all change on Żurawia! First Cafe 6/12 gets killed off and now You & Me. But so long as places like Kulturalna keep plugging the vacated gaps then that’s not a problem. Drinkswise the slant here is on cocktails and there’s some big ’uns to choose from. Those serious about starting the night with a bang have a range of house drinks served in 150 ml measures. Grapple with those in an easy-on-they-eye black and white interior or over a bit of people watching on the thin, narrow terrace.

78

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2015

bars & pubs 6 Cocktails (E5) ul. Mokotowska 57 Taking its lead from the New York fad for covert bars, the 6 adventure begins in front of a heavy arched gate. Ring the bell, await the buzz of approval and then find yourself summoned into rambling apartment that feels sultry and sensual.

Complete with a shadowy smoking lounge and a whirlpool tub in the bathroom, it’s the best secret in Warsaw. To enjoy the bespoke cocktails yourself, message them on Facebook and await your invite…

Bar Wieczorny ul. Wiśniowa 46, open Tue-Thu 16:00-22:00; Fri 16:00-23:00; Sat 18:00-23:00, barwieczorny.pl Preparing for their first summer, it’s going to be one helluva’ place to visit once the weather heats up: that garden is going to get naughty! The cocktails are serious here, with top quality spirits (Vestal, Baczewski, Woodford Reserve) used with equally big name mixes (Fentimans, Big Tom, etc.).

Further, you’ll find it’s the right products in the right hands – the staff know their game.

Bazar (F1) ul. Jagiellońska 13, tel. 508 321 264, open 12:00-last guest There’s Krusovice, Bernard and Staropramen on tap, and the Czech slant is lent added meat by a series of evenings held in cahoots with the Czech Cultural Centre – it’s during boozy disco nights the party spills into a shadowy cellar with light retro hints. On ground level its raw and industrial with asphalt colors and overhead pipes. You wouldn’t expect it, but the margaritas are smashing.

Beirut (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, open daily 12:00-4:00, www.beirut.com.pl As hip as ever, Beirut has walls dusted with cult album covers, documentary posters and witty graffiti inspired by Banksy. Busy in the day, and absolutely packed at night, order unconventional beers (Noteckie, English ale, Erdinger) from androgynous staff standing behind a sandbag bar decorated with silver hand grenades and a model tank.

Berlin-Warszawa Express (D5) Most Poniatowskiego (corner of Krucz-

listings / nightlife kowskiego and al. 3 Maja), open 18:00-1:00; Fri-Sat 18:00-3:00 Set up a flight of stairs, a concrete footbridge at the top links the two bars either side: Berlin and Warszawa.

It’s a Matrix moment, the red pill or the blue? Berlin’s the better, with industrial cage lights, and salvaged DDR memorabilia.

Surveying the scene, it’s all wobbly tables, sticky surfaces and tight little alcoves fitted into impossible spaces. A great dive bar, the friendly nature of Berlin gets even friendlier after a few craft brews.

Bierhalle (A1) Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), ul. Nowy Świat 64, ul. Marszałkowska 55/73, open 11:00-last guest, bierhalle.pl Having tapped their first beer six or seven years back, their microbrewery have morphed into a national phenomenon with outposts across the country. All three Warsaw locations have a cut/paste Bavarian atmosphere, hefty wooden fittings and waitresses dressed like mountain frauleins.

Bollywood Lounge (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, tel. 22 827 0283, open Sun-Thu 12:00-3:00; Fri 12:00-6:00; Sat 14:00-6:00, www.bollywoodlounge.pl Now on Nowy Świat, the team have used the opportunity to upgrade their offer: gone is that low-rent feel of old, replaced in favor of a more classy look and a slicker crowd.

What has remained constant is the energy.

Ace cocktails (recommended: Jim Ban Chili), tottering talent and a range of sheesha pipes make it a weekend must, though the big news is the completion of their downstairs club: check it out for the bright, banging beats of the Bollywood sound.

British Bulldog (D4) ul. Aleje Jerozolimskie 42, tel. 22 827 0020, open 11:00-1:00, www.bbpub.pl The most faithful replica of an English pub you’ll find.

And they get a further nod for a brilliant covered terrace that’s great in all weather. Not that you’ll find many British expats in here, they’ve been boycotting the place ever since the dismissal of the original British manager.

Judging by the standard of their beer, you might want to follow their example.

Bubbles (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 512 540 913, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-18:00, bubbles.com.pl Despite sounding like a 90s small town nightclub,

Bubbles is in fact a worthy place of note: a small, warm venue with a slow food menu and a design that incorporates lots of upturned crates and dusty bottles.

Champagne is the main draw here, with many labels that are exclusive to Poland.

Some come with terrifying prices, but on the whole the price points are widely accessible: wine from zł. 10 and a flute of champers from zł. 29.

Cafe Kulturalna (C4) Palace of Culture, pl. Defilad 1, tel. 22 656 6281, open Mon-Sat 12:00-last guest; Sun 15:00-last guest, www.kulturalna.pl The location is unbeatable and visiting the Palace late at night is an amazing, almost mystical experience.

Chmielarnia (B5) ul. Twarda 42 (basement level), tel. 22 890 77 05, open Mon-Thu 11:00-24:00; Fri 11:00-2:00; Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 12:0024:00, www.chmielarnia.waw.pl A subterranean multi-tap found in the depths of the fishing institute. Artisan beers rule the roost here (there’s 15 taps and stacks more beer in the fridge), a point underlined by a glass coffin of mainstream garbage. While the bar gets loud and rackety, sweaty and sticky, that’s balanced out by a rotating beer offer that’s moderately priced plus a friendly, earnest audience that’s all beer geeks and know-it-alls.

Chmielarnia Marszałkowska (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16, open Mon-Thu 11:00-24:00; Fri 11:00-2:00; Sat 12:002:00; Sun 12:00-24:00, chmielarnia.waw. pl With the tap war at its height, Chmielarnia hope to raise the stakes with their latest venture. Twelve taps and umpteen bottles comprise the offer, with a range of domestic and international players represented: among them Beavertown, Hoppin’ Frog and Fourpure. Less nerdy than their original, expect the latest Chmielarnia to hoover up bearded custom from nearby pl. Zbawiciela.

Column Bar ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44 (Hotel Bristol), open 10:00-1:00 Just the look of Column Bar sweeps you off your feet; there’s something breathlessly classy about it, like you’ve just entered Gatsby’s ballroom. You want to order a pyramid of champagne and dance on their piano. Behave, and order a cocktail instead. For a taste of the classics,

the Column Bar is peerless. In summer, enjoy your drinks out in the beautifully tranquil courtyard.

Cuda Na Kiju (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, tel. 662 006 106, open 10:00-2:00, www.cudanakiju.pl Warsaw’s multi-tap revolution started here!

This sleek space comes drenched in sunlight that slants through the four glass walls, while the shaded courtyard is frequently utilized for various one off events and food truck meets. Find 15 taps dispensing regional and craft brews as well as quirky imports from Czech, Belgium and beyond.

Cześć (C3) ul. Grzybowska 2 (through the side passage), tel. 505 695 512, open 16:00-last guest,2 www.czesc.waw.pl It started as a café, but now Cześć is better known as being at the forefront of the new generation of ‘quali-tap’ bars – small little places with six or so new wave beers on tap. The two owners, Piot and Kuba, take their beer seriously, so do expect plenty of new finds as well as traditional favorites from stalwarts like the Artezan and Pinta breweries. The laidback, neighborhood atmosphere is making it increasingly popular with a tight-knit circle of ex-pat drinkers.

Czeska Baszta (E4) Tower 22A, Most Poniatowskiego, open Tue-Thu, Sun 16:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 16:00-24:00; Sun 16:00-23:00, www. czeskabaszta.pl Set in one of those towers that props up Most Poniatowskiego, its surroundings look grim – at night even scary.

Bathed in a yellowish murk, it’s actually warm and welcoming, and the reason for that soon becomes apparent: everyone is drunk!

There’s 80 Czech beers to pick from, and they do more than enough to distract from the rattle and rumble of overhead trams and a swamp monster toilet.

Dandys Bar & Art Kafe (D6) ul. Piękna 15, tel. 883 588 388, open Tue-Thu 15:00-1:00; Fri-Sat 15:00-2:00; Sun 15:00-24:00, dandysbar.pl Already the subject of the gossip columns, Dandys brings together the cream of Warsaw’s social scene inside a split-level bar that smacks of good times and high living: this is a place created with ‘super sexy’ in mind. The top quality cocktails are a fitting reflection of the people and philosophy. www.warsawinsider.pl

79

listings / nightlife Elephant Belgian Pub (C1) ul. Freta 19, tel. 532 742 400, open Mon-Thu 14:00-23:00; Fri-Sun 12:00-23:00 Signposted by a jolly, dancing elephant, this Belgian pub presents its cause the moment you enter – there’s twenty or so taps laid right out in front, and to the left a fridge that’s expected to top out to cover 200 beers. The design is basic – brickwork, beer kegs and varying ephemera of the brewing trade – but it doesn’t need that much more: it’s about the beer, after all.

Gorączka Złota (D5) ul. Wilcza 29, tel. 22 625 6855, open MonFri 13:00-24:00; Sat 17:00-24:00, www.goraczka-zlota.com.pl Founded in 1996, Złota’s longevity is to be admired, even if the interiors aren’t. Small, dark and a little pungent, the interiors are rendered out of little more than varnished wood and hundreds of beer coasters. But that’s the clue! The secret of their success is down to the beer. Stocking a range of regional and craft beer (Ale Browar, Pinta, Kormoran, AltenMunster, Olbracht, etc.), this unfashionable bar has an underlying honesty that makes it a success.

Hard Rock Cafe ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, open daily 9:00-24:00, hardrockcafe.pl Full Throttle cocktails, lively staff and a classic rock soundtrack: the energy of HRC is hard to find fault with. And on the rare occasion there is a lull in the night, use the

80

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2015

opportunity to sniff around memorabilia that includes a black leather number once worn

by Madonna.

Hopsters Al. Jana Pawła II 45 (enter from ul.

Nowolipki), open Mon-Thu 15:00-24:00; Fri 15:00-2:00; Sat 13:00-2:00; Sun 13:0022:00 You get the idea they could have done a bit more with the interior, though the tendency is to overlook this. After all, any bar that goes to the trouble of fitting twenty taps deserves a bit of leeway. And fine things they are, these taps of theirs. There’s usually a couple of foreign guests on the day-to-day menu, but the main draw is undoubtedly from domestic brew houses like AleBrowar and Artezan, not to mention rising stars such as Doctor Brew and Podgórz.

Jabeerwocky ul. Nowogrodzka 12, open Mon-Thu 13:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 13:00-2:00; Sun 15:00-24:00, taproom.pl “We don’t want to be just another tap bar,” says manager Marcin Chmielarz, “we want to the best tap bar.” Aiding this mission is a great design of restored 100-year-old floor tiles and the kind of bricks and plaster looks that works so well in a boozy, beery environment. As for beers, that’s 15 taps, two cask ales and a fridge that’s filled to the gunnels with exotic offers from Europe’s boutique breweries.

Jedna Trzecia ul. Wilcza 52, tel 605 589 588, open Mon-

Thu 16:00-24:00; Fri 16:00-2:00; Sat-Sun 14:00-24:00 Unbeknown to some publicans, craft beer is not a numbers game – it’s not about how many taps you have, it’s about what comes out of them. This lot understood that from the start. Quality control is stringent, yet aside from pouring the perfect pint (every time), Jedna Trzecia have a choice that reflects the latest developments on the global craft scene: rare find international brews are a specialty and presented in an industrial, concrete space softened by it’s mustard lighting and laidback audience.

BEST WAWA 2014 “Craft Beer Bar” Kameralna (E4) ul. Foksal 11, tel. 887 878 731, open 12:00-24:00 With a militia truck outside, and interiors that feature cutlery by Społem and 70s newspapers on the walls, you’d be right to think we’ve got another venue that celebrates the past. Looking vast and comfortingly cluttered, Kameralna is both a restaurant and a nightspot – brewing their own beer, the house lagers are fine.

Karowa 31 ul. Karowa 31, open Tue 18:00-24:00; Wed 18:00-3:00; Thu 18:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 18:00-5:00, warsawbarproject.com Warsaw’s original speakeasy grants access via a retractable door disguised as a VHS collection – how cool is that!? But that’s nothing compared what lies beyond. Lose yourself in this subterranean maze, but not before ordering from their extensive cocktail

listings / nightlife list. The drinks deserve all the plaudits that come their way.

Kita Koguta (E5) ul. Krucza 6/14, tel. 512 307 284, open Mon-Thu 8:00-24:00; Fri 8:00-2:00; Sat 16:00-2:00 Free from the pompous prattery of Bar Max down the road, there are times in Kita Koguta where sitting at bar level is like watching Dexter’s Laboratory: the staff aren’t afraid to get imaginative, and that includes serving cocktails in smoking coconut husks.

Not all the experiments go as planned, but that’s part of the thrill – for a failsafe, order the Viterbo Breakfast: it looks like something that came out of a drainpipe, but it’s delicious!

Kraken Rum Bar (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, tel. 791 334 606, open daily 12:00-4:00 Named after one of the ocean’s most feared mythical creatures (the scary squid from Pirates of the Caribbean), the wood-clad Kraken features a wall of cymbals, heavy furniture and some interesting photography. While there’s some decent bottles of rum, there’s perhaps not enough to justify calling it a rum bar. The house beer rocks though.

Kufle i Kapsle (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 25, tel. 22 127 7218, open Mon-Thu 14:00-2:00; Fri 14:00-4:00; Sat 12:00-4:00; Sun 12:00-2:00, www. kufleikapsle.pl Ten tap and two pump beers offer a magnificent spread of daily changing beers, and the good news continues with the choice in the fridge: there’s 120 beers down there, so gamble on a rather jolly night. Interiors are balanced with the pre-war heritage of the building, and are already thick with noise, clamor and the welcome scent of beer and spillage.

Legends is slowly edging its way to legendary status amongst the ex-pats and Anglophiles.

It’s all helped by touches like a segregated smoking room, a proper darts board, Sky Sports and a traditional menu that’s as authentically English as the Downing Street cat. Most of all though, the success is down to the sense of community fostered over long quiz nights, shouty karaoke competitions and other such events. Presiding over it all is Graham, a seasoned expat and Everton nut.

Na Lato (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44, tel. 692 280 094, open Mon 8:00-23:00; Tue-Thu 8:00-1:00; Fri 8:00-5:00; Sat 10:00-5:00; Sun 10:00-24:00 Once derided as a hipster haunt, the twits have moved on, replaced instead by an increasingly on-trend crowd of rich young things. The cocktails are without doubt up there with the best in Wa-wa and the onset of sunshine means you can enjoy them on the expanse of greenery directly outside.

Lolek (A8) ul. Rokitnicka 20 (Pole Mokotowskie), tel. 22 825 6202, open daily 11:00-03:00, www.lolekpub.pl A boisterous pub with a Bavarian, bacchanal spirit and a parkcentered location. Strangers squish together on shaky benches while sausages grill over an open fire inside this classic rough-andready drinkery. Catch it at its best in summer when the outdoor seating is thronged.

Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’ (D4) Enter from ul. Nowy Świat 26 Approximately twenty bars occupy a series of low-budget prefabricated cabins, presenting possibly the highest density of bars in the capital.

Adding to the gentle sense of confusion comes the realization that so many bars look the same – accessed through clattery, barred doors, visitors walk into what can only be described as murk. Klaps, with its dildo beer taps and phallic walls, is probably the most well-known of the lot.

Miłość Kredytowa 9 ul. Kredytowa 9, open 9:00-6:00 Firstly, there’s the bar. It’s stunning: concrete slabs, a vertical wall of greenery and a DJ platform that doubles as a kitchen on weekends.

The upstairs mezzanine is the best spot for voyeurs, and it’s here that a series of rooms unravel revealing a bookstore, deli and a lumbersexual barber shop. It is ultimately the bar that is the center force though, and it’s here you’ll find one-of-a-kind bottled cocktails that use natural ingredients, not to mention the full offer from Perła.

Oleandrów 3 (D6) ul. Oleandrów 3, open Sun-Thu 12:00-24:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-1:00 Exploring themes of decadence and fallen splendor, this new opening cements Oleandrów’s status as one of Warsaw’s rising streets. Looking dark and disheveled, this busy nightspot is already earning a name for libertine shenanigans.

The blackboard menu touts an unlikely combo of ‘hot dogs and champagne’ – watch others follow suit.

Kwadrat (D5) ul. Poznańska 7, tel. 790 010 088, open Mon-Fri 16:00-last guest; Sat 18:00-last guest, www.kwadrat.waw.pl Nights get blurry in Kwadrat, one of the first bars in town to spread the gospel of regional and new wave beer. Enjoy it alongside an amiable, late 20s crowd.

Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri 11:0002:00; Sat 12:00-02:00, Sun 12:00-23:00, www.legendsbar.pl Celebrating their fourth anniversary this September just gone,

www.warsawinsider.pl

81

listings / nightlife Panorama Bar and Lounge (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 630 6306, open Mon-Sun 18:00-2:00, www.panoramabar.pl An elegant bar that would easily pass for the VIP room of a wellto-do club. A floor 40 location makes it great for a date: the sunset views are dazzling.

Paradox (B1) ul. Anielewicza 2, tel. 691 472 969, open Sun-Thu 10:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-2:00; Sun 10:00-23:00, www.paradox-cafe.pl Billing themselves as a ‘sci-fi / gamers / role play asylum’ this is a cradle of geeks, nerds and people who collect serial killer memorabilia. Decorated with plastic black crows, a map of Mordor and figurines of goblins, watch as oddly attired suspects engross themselves in ‘for hire’ games with names like Hobbit and Bewoulf.

Parking Bar (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 27, tel. 501 623 456 or 537 606 897, open Sun-Thu 16:00-2:00; Fri-Sat 17:00-6:00, www.parkingbar.eu It looks raw and ready, but then what did you expect from a place on the ground floor of a car park.

Plentiful concrete, mesh fences and swinging car tire seats lend it unique characteristics, as do the drinks: the creative cocktails are served in small little jars. At times it feels a bit slow, but that changes on their weekend club nights.

Patera (C4) ul. Świętokrzyska 36, tel. 535 333 123, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00; Sun 11:00-23:00, www.patera.com.pl Patera fill a binary role: first as an Asian eatery, and second as a cocktail bar. And my, what cocktails. Offering several classics, and a few modern creations, the Ginger Peach Collins became our cocktail of choice during summer 2014. The reopening of Świętokrzyska should lead a few more people through the door – they’ll like what they see.

Pies Czy Suka (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8A, tel. 22 881 83 73, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00; Sun 16:00-23:00, www.piesczysuka.com Monochrome gun metal grey colors are offset by a fashionable crowd attired in red shoes, pink trousers and blue headphones. This clean, concrete space is speckled with plaster moldings of reindeer heads, and excels on

82

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2015

the cocktail front. Order from an iPad menu, before settling back for cocktails made using mad scientist, molecular techniques that involve foam, vapor, beakers and other things you’d usually find in Professor Yaffle’s lab.

of the story. This is a celebration of Poland, both old and new, with drinks that include obscure nalewki, craft local beers, bio drinks and regional tipples. The masterstroke comes in making this all feel international, contemporary and creative.

Piw Paw (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34 (enter from ul.

Parkingowa), tel. 534 734 500, open 24 hrs Grandiosely declaring themselves to be Warsaw’s first ‘hyper tap’ bar, Piw Paw’s armory includes 57 tap beers, about ten tables and two toilets – do you see the problem? Designed more for carry-out custom, Piw Paw nonetheless packs out with punters often spilling outside creating an almost street party vibe.

Secado (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 66, tel. 608 707 799, open Mon-Fri 10:00-23:00; Sat 11:0024:00; Sun 12:00-23:00 Most part restaurant, bit part bar, there’s a flexibility here that has turned it into one of those places where people meet, eat and generally hangout – not always in that order. And as for the drinks, they’re really very good. Using their own mixes, Secado present a succinct list of must-try cocktails.

Piw Paw na Foksal (E4) ul. Foksal 16, tel. 534 734 945, open 16:00-last guest, piwpaw.pl If the original Piw Paw was marketed as a ‘hyper tap’ then what’s their sister on Foksal? There’s 97 taps (!!) though one gets the sense its more about numbers than quality – we’ve seen Beck’s, for Pete’s sake. Getting service can be a nightmare, and while there’s a smoking room, it’s got the warmth and ambience of a night down the police station.

Sketch w Teatrze Wielkim (D2) Pl. Piłsudkiego 9, tel. 602 762 764, open 12:00-1:00, sketch.pl Here’s a multi tap bar designed with a very specific crowd in mind: glam stylists, models with sleeve tattoos and other vapid morons. Looking bold, bright and brash, this is just about the worst tap bar Warsaw has ever seen. The beer aspect is purely incidental. You get the idea this mob would be here if the pipes were hooked up to the udders of a cow – so long as milk was in fashion. Yuck.

Plan B (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 508 316 976, open Mon-Sun 11:00-last guest. www.planb.pl Plan B is the very essence of dive Warsaw. Weekends pass by in a raucous blur, with the party spilling out under the colonnades outside – it helps to look like a DJ, but in truth everyone is welcome. The hangover from this shabby, grubby bar is traumatic.

Pociąg do Piwa ul. Dereniowa 2, tel. 501 022 890, open 14:00-last guest Jumping onto the multi-tap bandwagon is Pociąg do Piwa, a smallish locale whose one design element is a steam engine traced into the wall using bottle tops.

There’s 12 taps in all, and they primarily distribute cult Polish beers from the likes of Pinta and AleBrowar.

Polonez (D5) ul. Poznańska 24, tel. 604 942 169, open Sun-Wed 10:00-1:00; Thu 10:00-2:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-3:00 Sparse milk bar chic is set against plenty of oddities (black and white Cybulski films, a set of antlers, hordes of junk), but the cool aesthetics only tell a part

Słoik (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 600 396 688, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri 11:00-24:00; Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, restauracjasloik.pl Słoik looks bright, loud and vibrant, so it’s no surprise to learn their cocktail maestros specialize in maverick creations. A source of particular pride are drinks that celebrate Poland: we’re talking about vodkas infused with juniper and vanilla, then mixed with marmalades and other exotica like pickled cucumber juice.

The tastes are unique and leave you bandylegged and shouting for more.

Spiskowcy Rozkoszy (D5) ul. Żurawia 47/49, tel. 796 671 950, open Mon-Thu 16:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 16:00-1:00; Sun 16:00-23:00, www.spiskowcy.pl The ground floor is an intimate space with lots of yet-to-be-famous beers and junky, antique furniture that reminds of the Boho hangouts in Kraków. But what was a packed, little bar is now a packed, big bar with the opening of the basement: find a labyrinth of rooms and psychedelic toilets with pulsating lights – you soon wonder who spiked your

listings / nightlife drink. And oh, the drinks. Expect IPA and APA beers served from the six taps.

Syzyszka Chmielu Al. KEN 36, open Mon-Thu 16:00-24:00; Fri 16:00-2:00; Sat 15:00-2:00; Sun 15:00-24:00, pubszyszkachmielu.pl The beer scene in Ursynów is seriously hopping up. First came Pociąg Do Piwa, then Vyceska, and now this tongue twister. The 14 taps offer largely safe local options, so head to the fridge for adventurous brews from the likes of Mikeller, AleSmith and Nogne O. In an added plus, this is just about the first tap bar that realizes that some people out there like football: it’s filled with slick screens beaming the big match.

The View ul. Twarda 18 Sat on top of the Spektrum Tower this bar looks set to reinvent the whole concept of going out in Warsaw. A truly world-class venture, promised are an open-air deck on the 32nd floor, top club events and a VIP room that makes anything the city has seen before look amateur.

Opening in July, we’ll be bringing you a full report next issue.

Vyceska ul. Polinezyjska 10, open 13:00-23:00 As welcome as the craft revolution has been, there are times you just want a good honest pint: so how about this, a multi-tap whose focus zooms on all things Czech. There’s eight taps and a wealth of bottles to traipse through as well as a small menu of food designed to sustain protracted drinking sessions. All this in an interior that’s dark and slick but not short of character – all of a sudden moving out to Ursynów seems a rather smart idea.

Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 621 8622, open Mon-Sun 12:00-last guest, www.warsawtortillafactory.pl Warsaw’s premier sports pub: and it’s not just the extent of their sporting offer that elevates WTF, but the atmosphere. Whether it’s international rugby, or Bristol City on a Tuesday night, the tension, camaraderie and horseplay are unmatched. On the occasions when there is no sport, swing by for live bands and a

lively atmosphere fueled by a heady mix of ex-pats, international students, and locals bewildered by it all. The recent addition of boutique beverages such as Brew Dog and Thistly Cross has gone down a treat.

Warszawa Powiśle (E4) ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B, tel. 22 474 40 84, open Mon-Fri 11:00-last guest; Sat-Sun 9:00-last guest, www.warszawapowisle. pl The prime months for this former ticket booth arrive each summer when the deckchairs outside provide ample opportunity for the city’s young and fashionable to gather in an almost carnival-like atmosphere. Seen as a hipster Center of Power, you’ll know if you belong.

Weles (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 11, tel. 602 773 997, open Sun-Thu 17:00-2:00; Fri-Sat 17:00-4:00 A swing of the door takes visitors plunging down a blacked-out stairwell and into a basement that emerges from the darkness like a decadent Tsarist relic: glinting chandeliers glimmer over deep leather sofas, their subtle light casting a glow over an immaculate clientele comprised of architects.

Befitting the venue, the artisanal cocktails are a work of elaborate craftsmanship, and incorporate everything from elite liquors to strips of bacon and flower petals.

Zamieszanie ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, open Thu-Sat 19:00-2:00 Cuda Na Kiju have built on their continuing success by adding this spot in the glass block next to their tap pub. Here though it’s cocktails that are the draw.

Pre-bottled in a secret room downstairs, meaning none of the ad-libbed artistry of other cocktail bars, and tastes that are closer in line to 90s alcopop drinks than anything else. That doesn’t stop a young crowd from swamping the place come the weekend.

Enklawa (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 22 827 3151, open Wed-Sat 22:00-4:00, www.enklawa.com Forget internet dating, Enklawa is the best pick-up joint around – a classic kitschy, glitzy disco, it draws in huge crowds with a simple lineup of pop and dance hits. Still regarded as the best Wednesday night in Warsaw, it’s the place for singletons looking for a one night confidence boost.

Luztro (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, open Wed-Thu 22:00-10:00; Fri-Sat 24:00-14:00, www.

GREAT FOOD AMAZING COCKTAILS FREQUENT LIVE PERFORMANCES WONDERFUL SERVICE ROCK’N’ROLL EXPERIENCE

LIVE MUSIC

ON WEDNESDAYS - 20:30

SATURDAY NIGHT LIVE

LIVE ACTS, DJ, QUIZZES, CONTESTS ON SATURDAYS 22:00-2:00

10co% unt* dis

clubs De Lite (E5) ul. Marii Konopnickiej 6, tel. 792 014 166, www.deliteclub.pl This place definitely figures highly in the ‘bubbles and beauties’ stakes. Scantily clad dates bop along sipping on martinis, flirting and dancing, while exposed brick and pipes, raw concrete and an interesting mirror setup in the bathrooms add to the futuristic, spaceship interior.

WARSAW | ZŁOTE TARASY | UL. ZŁOTA 59 TEL. +48 22 222 07 00

*Show this advert and get 10% discount on food, nonalcoholic beverages or merchandise**.

Valid till December 31th, 2015. ** For purchases over 150 PLN.

www.warsawinsider.pl

83

listings / nightlife luztro.pl Feeling naughty? Luztro enjoys a reputation for libertine behavior and illicit pharmaceuticals. Dark, grim and grotty, this after party stalwart gets going at about 4 a.m. on weekends, when troglodyte club creatures emerge zombie-like to dance way past sunrise. Jaw grinding, rib rattling electro has never felt better.

Platinium (D3) ul. Fredry 6, tel. 694 413 439, open Thu-Sat 21:00-6:00. www.platiniumclub.pl The place if you’re rich or beautiful – but preferably both. Large and spectacular you’ll need to be dressed to the nines to reap the rewards that lie inside: featuring the most eye candy per sq/m in Europe, you might not find Mr/Mrs Right, but you will find Mr/Mrs Right for Now. Sen Pszczoły ul. Grochowska 301/305, tel. 530 360 060, senpszczoly.pl Famous, infamous or a bit of both? Moving from their temporary digs in the Koneser Factory, the new-look Sen Pszczoły is every bit as murky as the previous: amid a heavy industrial background, find partygoers enjoying a mixed bag of events that range from didgeridoo performances to full-on techno that makes fillings pop out.

gentleman’s clubs Playhouse (B3) Al. Solidarności 82A, tel. 794 007 000, open 21:00-4:00, www.playhouse.pl Not here gorilla gangsters on the door or pushy girls doing the rounds (“buy me drinky drinky”).

Instead, Playhouse models itself on the top class mega clubs such as Spearmint Rhino, and the result is a subterranean space removed from the sleaze and murk usually associated with the industry. But you want to know what the girls are like, yeah? Let the fact askmen.com voted it their favorite strip in the world speak for itself.

live music Chwila (B3) ul. Ogrodowa 31/35, tel. 22 401 1754, open 12:00-last guest; Sun 15:00-last guest Entered under a red, cabaret-style awning, Chwila is a reject factory space turned good.

Furry cushions, patchwork quilts and student art vie for attention alongside iron girders and industrial leftovers inside what is becoming known as one of the top alternative music

84

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2015

venues this side of the river. The toilet alone, papered with trillions of cool posters and magazine covers, is a reason to linger.

Pardon To Tu (C4) Pl. Grzybowski 12/16, tel. 513 191 641, open 10:00-4:00, www.pardontotu.pl Decorated in voluptuous brothel colors, the design involves mismatched seats, tilted lampshades and a relaxed arthouse look popular with creatives and other fringe dwellers. The live talent ranges from moody quartets to jazzy chanteuses, while a perfect marriage of late hours and great bottled beers helps along the enthusiastic crowd of latter day beatniks.

Tygmont Jazz Club (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 6/8, tel. 22 828 3409, www.tygmont.com.pl, open daily 16:004:00 For true jazz lovers, Tygmont is a breath of fresh air in a city up to its ears in terrible acoustics.

park & beach Bars Cud nad Wisłą (E2) ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie, tel.

533 649 561, open 10:00-last guest, cudnadwisla.pl What summer drinking should be about. Deckchairs and cushions abound in this riverside spot, and it excels at night when twinkly lights reflect off the inky black waters. The live music does its bit to ensure it’s never a quiet night.

La Playa ul. Wybrzeże Helskie 1/5, www.laplaya.pl.

Mix-up surf inspired cocktails, lager in plastic glasses, a volleyball net, lounge chairs and some spontaneous samba, and you get the most unexpected beach party you’d ever imagine. If you’re feeling particularly daring, go skinny dipping in the murky, muddy Wisła.

Plac Zabaw (F6) ul. Myśliwiecka 9 (Park Agrykola), open 12:00-4:00. Owned by the same dudes behind Plan B, the name translates as ‘Playground’. With a low-key, open air set-up in the wooded bit under Trasa Łazienkowska, from an aesthetic point there’s little to write home about. Even so, with summer in song you’ll find it rocking into the wee, early hours.

Plażowa (G3) Underneath Most Poniatowskiego, open 12:00-last guest. They either complement

Temat Rzeka next door, or steal their thunder – your choice. Set in and around a swanky new complex standing under the National Stadium, points are scored for a music stage, an open air top floor VIP platform, and toilets you aren’t terrified of entering. No word of a lie, in terms of nightlife, it’s the biggest thing to happen to Warsaw this summer.

Temat Rzeka (G3) Under Poniatowskiego Bridge, open Sun-Tue 11:00-1:00; Wed 11:00-2:00; Thu 11:00-3:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-5:00 Due to open at some point in May, Temat Rzeka has been a sensation the last couple of summers, with nowhere else in Europe having more internet check-ins. The beach area in front of this sleek riverside cabin attracts hundreds, sometimes thousands, of late night revelers.

shot bars Afera na Szpitalnej ul. Szpitalna 3, open 11:00-2:00; Fri 11:00-6:00; Sat 15:00-6:00; Sun 15:00-2:00 In terms of style Afera seems more sanitized than Warsaw’s other shot bars. But is it more sane? No chance! When the clubs have closed top-up your alcohol levels by necking little shots of horror from one of the most complete vodka menus in town.

Bar Warszawa ul. Miodowa 2, open 14:00-4:00, barwarszawa.pl Creak upstairs to find a warm space filled out with sofas and nostalgic decorations such as vintage radios and black and white photos of bare breasted prostitutes. Run as a side project by a TV producer, flexible opening hours mean it doesn’t always close at the stated 4 a.m.

Meta ul. Mazowiecka 11 / Foksal 21 / Parkingowa 5 Chains of old bog paper, Karol Gott album covers and other Communist keepsakes litter this shot bar. But for a real blast to the past, visit their Parkingowa venue for a full-on, Polski-style retro disco. It’s hilarious.

Pijalnia ul. Nowy Świat 19, open 24hrs Havoc reigns in Pijalnia, and watching all the tears and tiffs on a Friday night is something of a spectator sport. Pickles and vodka are the essential order, while reading matter is supplied via commie-era sports reports that are plastered to the wall.

shopping accessories Agent Provocateur ul. Mokotowska 59, tel. 22 273 6162, www. agentprovocateur.com The boutique is stocked full of the latest collection – gorgeous lacy bras with scrumptious attention to detail, matching panties, teddies and a bunch of strappy get-ups you can only get away with if you’re very fit or very confident, but preferably both. And if that’s not enough, they’ve got sexy stockings, silk robes, perfume, satin gloves, a blindfold and nipple tassels…

THE TASTE OF HOME

BRITISH SHOP (ul. Emilii Plater 8, britishshop.pl) British food and beverages (inc. cider, bacon, sausages, confectionery, etc.) and much, much more. The shop might be diminutive in size, but there’s not much they won’t import for you – for a price. The mark-up is steep.

COŚ SŁODKIEGO (pictured) (ul. Dzielna 1, cosslodkiego.com.pl) The puzzling location simply adds to the cult status these chaps have acquired. American candy is the specialty, with the far-reaching offer including Worm Snacks, Bean Boozled and Reese’s Spreads.

KUCHNIE ŚWIATA (Various locations, www.kuchnieswiata.com.pl) The first stop for most ex-pats, with an offer that includes food and drinks from across the globe. The choice is vast. Internet ordering now also available.

LITTLE INDIA (ul. Domaniewska 22/5, www.littleindia.pl) The definitive stop for Indian ingredients, even if it doesn’t look anything more than a pokey neighborhood store. They’ve got it all mind, from oils, beans, lentils and flour, not to mention ready meals, canned goods and cosmetics.

MARKS & SPENCER (Various locations, www.marks-and-spencer.com.pl) Visit the flagship on Marszałkowska to take advantage of the on-site bakery. Aside from baked goods find a widely appreciated frozen food section that include British sausages, bacon and microwave curries.

Bath & Body Works ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00, ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 The famed American brand signals its arrival to Europe with the launch of their Warsaw branch. Now fans of the brand can experience first-hand luxurious fragrant body care, hand and home collections.

Customers can discover sophisticated fragrances, test shower gels and soaps at the sink area, and try everything from body lotions to home fragrances.

Batycki (various locations) Bozena Batycka’s sleek, simple handbag designs are made with italian leather. While her products are not inexpensive by Polish standards, their uniqueness combined with substantial durability make them a perenial favorite.

BeautyLab Polska beautylabpolska.pl Rated as one of the biggest names in global cosmetics, the range of treatments run from anti-ageing to daily body care and skin care.

Pracownia Szczotek ul. Poznańska 26, khaja.pl Opened in 1952, this bespoke brush store has been passed down from grandfather to father and then onto son. On offer: everything from paintbrushes to moustache combs to hairbrushes.

And the owner is a character as well: “I don’t have time for Facebook,” he says, “it would get in the way of my tango lessons!” www.warsawinsider.pl

85

listings / shopping

Victoria’s Secret Beauty & Accessories ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 665 625 618, open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00, ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), tel.

22 541 4141, Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 An assortment of Victoria’s Secret Beauty products including fun and flirty fragrances, such as Bombshell, as well as the scented VS Fantasies body care range.

For that glam girl-on-the go, expect to find a wide range of Victoria’s Secret branded bags, luggage, passport covers and small leather goods to cosmetic bags, bangles and key fobs.

fashion Bombay Shirts ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 606 270 400, bombayshirts.com Custom-made shirts for both men and women created from a choice of over 150 fabrics: among them the finest Egyptian cotton, two-ply cottons and pure linens. They promise shirts that are ‘modern and fast-paced but buttressed with old world charm’.

Chiara ul. Mokotowska 49, tel. 22 376 5489, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00, tel. 22 611 3814, pl. Uni Lubelskiej, tel. 22 647 0394, open Mon-Fri 10:00-21:00; Sat Sun 10:00-20:00, www.chiara-online.pl A solid assortment of Marc Jacobs and other top international designers such as Michael Kors and Jil Sander.

EM Cashmere Boutique ul. Szczygla 8, tel. 22 826 1956, emcashmere.pl Available brands include Allude Cashmere, Annette Görtz, Studiorundholz and Sarah Pacini with 30-40% discounts on last year’s collections, and up to 70% on those of previous years. A truly beautiful find with the clothes offer supplemented with shoes and accessories.

Hard Rock Cafe ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, open daily 9:00-24:00, hardrockcafe.pl No wardrobe is complete without the iconic Hard Rock t-shirt! Find the Warsaw-stamped version available here, along with other extras for the all American look.

86

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2015

Moliera 2 Boutique ul. Moliera 2, tel, 22 827 7099, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, Sat 11:00-16:00, www.moliera2.com Brands include: Balmain, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Gianvito Rossi, Herve Leger, Jimmy Choo, Kenzo, Kotur, Moncler Gamme Rouge, Ralph Lauren, Simonetta Ravizza, Tory Burch, Valentino, Victoria Beckham and Yves Salomon.

Mostrami.pl www.mostrami.pl Known to insiders as the ‘Polish Net-a-porter’, the online Mostrami portal showcases a whole breed of Polish fashion talent: Blessus, Justyna Chrabelska, Łukasz Jemioł, and Zuo Corp, as well as the rock stars of the local scene such as Kupisz, Zień and Plich. Around 100 designers to choose from, with prices straddling the wide spectrum of purchasing power.

Muji ul Mysia 3, tel. 502 264 091, open MonSat 10:00-20:00; Sun 12:00-18:00, www.muji.com.pl Having first opened its doors in 1983, in Japan, Muji still retains its simple aesthetic and ethos of marrying functionality with sophistication, with products ranging from furniture, kitchenware, stationary and clothing. Check out their online store.

Pinko Klif shopping Centre, ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4616, open Mon-Sat 9:00-21:00, Nowy Świat 1, tel. 22 629 1773, open Mon-Sat 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-19:00; Sun 11:00-16:00, Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), tel. 22 541 3862, Mon-Sat 10:0022:00, Sun 10:00-22:00, www.pinko.it Straight from Italy, this exclusive shop offers an array of chic day wear and eye-catching casual and evening clothes.

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, tel. 22 622 14 16, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-17:00, www.plactrzechkrzyzy.com Brands include: Fay, Gianvito Rossi, Jimmy Choo, Kenzo, Moncler, Ralph Lauren, Simonetta Ravizza, Tod’s, Tom Ford, Tory Burch, Valentino and Yves Salomon. And also in the luxury baby corner: baby Dior, Dolce&Gabbana Kids, Dsquared2 Kids, Kenzo Kids, Moncler Kids, Ralph Lauren Kids and Tod’s Kids.

Ptasia 6 ul. Ptasia 6, tel. 733 874 609, ptasia6.pl A unique ladies concept store showcasing the works of both emerging and established independent Polish fashion labels such as Eva Grygo, Confashion, Horror! Horror!, Kasia Miciak and Polanka.

QπШ - Robert Kupisz ul. Mokotowska 48/204 (courtyard), tel.

506 170 801, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-14:00, www.robertkupisz.com One of Warsaw’s hottest fashion icons, and a trip here soon explains why. The exclusive, handmade garments are a guaranteed head turner.

Reykjavik District ul. Burakowska 15, tel. 501 399 222, open Tue-Fri 13:00-19:00; Sat-Sun 13:00-17:00, www.reykjavikdistrict.com Chic, well-cut menswear for all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal.

Safripsti ul. Oleandrów 3 Formerly a make-up artist in London and Paris, owner Magdalena returned to Poland to open a vintage boutique.

Buying wholesale – meaning prices are kept in check – her fashion store presents finds like authentic cheerleader outfits and Hawaiian shirts for summer, not to mention a great selection of denim, parkers and so forth. And how about a classic Burberry mac for zł. 200?

Fashion Van Thorn ul. Sienna 39, tel. 22 243 7377, vanthorn.pl Bespoke and made-to-measure suits as well as custom-made shirts and a range of accessories from ties and pocket squares down to shoes and cufflinks. The attention to detail, the quality and craftsmanship are staggering.

Vintage Store ul. Dobra 56/66 (Level 1, University of Warsaw library), tel. 501 301 742, www. vintagestore.pl Since its inception the store has grown in many ways – now, used brands like Burberry, Barbour, dresses from the ’70s, Hermes scarves, snakeskin handbags, or original Adidas sweaters from the ’60s and ’70s (the owner is an avid collector) are not an uncommon find in the shop.

listings / shopping Viola Śpiechowicz ul. Kolejowa 55 (Łomianki), tel. 518 920 124, open Mon-Fri 9:00-15:00, vsstore.eu/ violaspiechowicz.com Viola Spiechowicz is an inspiring, unpretentious and highly creative fashion designer who has cultivated her own original and inimitable style since her 1992 debut. Her designs are the result of a long search for the perfect form, texture and color scheme, lending each project its own unique style: be it fashion, upholstery fabrics or accessory design.

Wake Up The Bear ul. Mokotowska 41, wakeupthebear.com Stylish ‘travel practical’ clothes as designed by the acclaimed Viola Spiechowicz.

Featuring natural fabrics and multipurpose add-ons, this is the ultimate in comfort clothes.

home 3F Studio ul. Nowolipki 28b, tel. 22 651 5644, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00, www.3fstudio.com.pl Offers furnishings and lighting from top contemporary Italian brands like BB Italia, Moroso, Living Divani, Desalto and Artemide. The in-house design team creates custom interiors for clients.

Le Pukka ul. Solec 58/60, lepukka.pl For interior inspirations take a look at Le Pukka: highly original furniture and decorative pieces for the home come from the likes of Smeg, AreaDeclic, HK Living and Zuiver.

Magazyn Praga ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), magazynpraga. pl Magazyn Praga pride themselves on bold, original items suited to all kinds of budgets.

Found in the Soho Factory ‘creative complex’, this concept store will reinvent your home.

Makutra ul. Oleandrów 5, tel. 22 825 4084, open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-14:00, makutra.com To know and not to cook, is not to know. This store has everything a master chef seeks: from tagines to mezzalunas, it’s got the lot covered. Huge stock of cook books and kitchenware.

Mokotowska 71 ul. Mokotowska 71, tel. 22 629 0511, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00,

www.mokotowska71.pl Offering creations by Belgian and French designers, this shop just screams elegance, beauty and style.

malls & department stores Arkadia Al. Jana Pawła II 82, tel. 22 323 6767, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00, www.arkadia.com.pl Blind Concept Store ul. Mokotowska 63/100, tel. 501 770 661 From established international names to upcoming local designers, consider Blind your one-stop fashion solution. Find it all from eclectic jewelry from Anka Krsytyniak and Chocokate, eyewear from Cheap Monday and Woodyglasses, killer heels from United Nude and Melissa & Vivienne Westwood, etc Galeria Mokotów ul. Wołoska 12, tel. 22 541 4141, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00, www.galeriamokotow.com.pl Klif House of Fashion ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4500, open Mon-Sat 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. www.klif.pl Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has everything from the excellent Alma supermarket to top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko.

Plac Unii ul. Puławska 2, tel. 22 204 0499, open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00, www.placunii.pl Warsaw’s latest mall counts Armani Jeans, Liu-Jo and Pandora amongst its upmarket tenants.

Mysia 3 ul. Mysia 3, tel. 603 767 574, open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00; Sun 12:00-18:00, www. mysia3.pl Hip department store that’s seen a few tenants come and go, yet has remained on the cutting edge in spite of it all. Set in Poland’s former censorship office, the line-up includes Scandinavian fashion in Cos, shoes from My Paris, unconventional fashion from Nenukko and more.

Vitkac Wolf Bracka Vitkac, ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7313, open Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00; Sun 11:00-18:00, www.likusconceptstore.pl Vitkac was made for with a credit card blitz in mind. Poland’s first luxury department store gathers the world’s top designers under one roof, with brands including Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton, Stella McCartney and Rick Owens.

And that’s the tip of the iceberg. Finish with dinner in the top floor Concept 13.

Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59, tel. 22 222 2200, open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00, www. zlotetarasy.pl Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Jatomi Health and Fitness Club.

made to measure suits and shirts 3D body scanning professional advice perfect fit guarantee after-sales service ul. Sienna 39 tel. 22 243 7377 www.vanthorn.pl

www.warsawinsider.pl

87

family activities Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. 22 596 41 00, open Tue-Fri 9:00-6:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-7:00, www.kopernik.org.pl A brilliant array of science-inspired attractions that prove as stimulating for parents as they are for the kids. Check out Galeria BZZZ, an area designated for children up to six. In order to keep numbers manageable, expect entry times to be staggered.

Every time we pass the Royal Castle my daughter asks why the British and Dutch (her nationalities) have Kings and Queens and yet Poland doesn’t… I usually mumble something about Polish aristocracy having more clout than royalty, name drop King Stanisław August as the last monarch in 1795 and then hastily suggest she call Grandpa for history lessons. But this time I said let’s go in and find out.

The Royal Castle Under the watchful eye of uniformed babcias we waltzed from one splendid interior to the next, gathering facts from the Eng/Pl information plaques. These explained how the castle, albeit rebuilt from scratch just 30 years ago, is actually bursting with history dating back to the 14th century and that after devastating wars, invasions and the deterioration of its political system, Poland did away with the Monarchy. With glistening chandeliers, impressive ceiling murals, imposing portraits, a mighty throne and my daughters favorite, the plush Bed Chamber all accurately reproduced, this tour is absolutely jaw dropping!

The Gardens and Kubicki Arcades Entrance to the garden is free and accessible via the street or the castle’s rather prim café/restaurant. The lavish French Baroque-style garden was recently completed so while my daughter zig zagged her way along the paths and explored the high conifer maze near the Kubicki Arcades, I relaxed on one of the many benches enjoying the river view and fountain.

A slice of Victoria sponge was the only thing missing!

Horse and Carriage The only way to travel if you wish to be an authentic Princess! So every few years we go into tourist mode, pay the zł. 100 (negotiable) for a 45min tour of the Old and New Town, then sit back and enjoy the nostalgia while the traffic (and horse poo) piles up behind… (GBB)

88

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2015

Mums & Tots www.mumsandtots.pl A volunteer group for mums (and dads) of all nationalities – coffee mornings, play groups, art and music classes and nights out for parents; the list is endless.

For more details, as well as their newsletter and schedule check their web.

Wilanów Golf Driving Range/ Ekberg Golf Academy ul. Vogla 19, tel. 22 424 7083, open Mon-Sun 9:00-21:00, www.golfparkspoland. pl Keen golfers (all ages) can perfect their swing at this friendly, well equipped driving range, whilst beginners can opt for professional individual lessons or beginner group programs in English or Polish. There is a weekly junior hour (5-15yrs), ladies hour and fun mini-golf course.

Zachęta Gallery Pl. Małachowskiego 3, tel. 22 556 9600, open Tue-Sun 12:00-20:00, www.zacheta. art.pl Recently undergone extensive modernization but still awaiting a café, this gallery and bookshop offer a perfect introduction to modern art. Also available are weekend workshops for children and original cultural birthday parties guided by experienced animators in a contemporary environment.

PHOTOGRAPH BY GILL BOELMAN-BURROWS

THE ROYAL CASTLE

HulaKula ul. Dobra 56/66, tel. 22 552 74 00, open Mon-Tue 12:00-24:00; Wed 12:00-1:00; Fri 12:00-3:00; Sat 10:00-4:00; Sun 10:00-24:00, www.hulakula.com.pl Bowling alley and soft indoor playground: heaven for kids and hell for grown-ups! Children love to climb, explore and slide into large ball pools.

Parents hate the lack of daylight and fast food menu.

listings / family education preschools

www.thebritishschool.pl The British School provides special classes from pre-nursery aged 30 months to 6 years old. Children at the Early Years Centre move on to our Primary and Secondary schools at Limanowskiego 15.

American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, www.aswarsaw.org ASW provides an American-styled educational program to students aged 4 and 5. The curriculum offers a rich, meaningful and balanced educational experience through age-appropriate activities. For further information and/ or to visit our school, contact: admissions@ aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00.

The British School of Warsaw in Wilanów ul. Hlonda / Ledóchowskiej, tel.

781 988 000, bsww.pl The school is affiliated with University of Cambridge International Examinations which mandates the educational program, qualifications and examinations for pupils up to 19 years of age. Currently admission is offered only to children between 2 and 7 years old (Nursery and Reception, Year 1 levels) for 2014/15. Older children are encouraged to submit application for 2015/16 or 2016/17.

The British School Early Years Centre ul. Dąbrowskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel.

22 646 7777, british@thebritishschool.pl,

Buzzy Bee Bilingual Preschool & Kindergarten ul. Śląska 45, tel. 502 036 962 / 22 863 30 96, www.przedszkole-wlochy.pl An English

immersion program designed for Polish and international children aged one to five.

The curriculum is conducted in Polish and English and prepares children for entry into their Vancouver primary schools. The school is situated in a quiet, green neighborhood of Stare Włochy and includes a 2,000 sq/m garden.

The Canadian School of Warsaw Preschool ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, preschool@canadian-school.pl The Canadian School of Warsaw is the only authorized school in Warsaw teaching IB PYP in English.

The preschool offers a bilingual environment for 3-6 year olds enriched with foreign languages and extra activities. Serving the Warsaw community since 2000 all children are welcome, though available space is limited. For further info, tours and school visits call or email.

The English speaking pre-school for children from the international community Can now take your child through the next steps of The English Educational System

• 17 years’ experience in education • Follows the English primary school curriculum • Teachers with substantial UK primary school teaching experience • Located in a quiet, green area of Wilanów For more information please contact Justyna Nowak, 784 037 808 or 22 843 93 70 jnowak@tep.edu.pl or visit www.tep.edu.pl

www.warsawinsider.pl

89

listings / family Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations)

Warsaw Montessori School ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www.warsawmontessori. edu.pl Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have 3 green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy.

Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. Call to make an appointment to tour any of the 3 schools.

Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupery ul. Nobla 16, tel. 22 616 14 99, www.ecole-montessori.pl The preschool is located in the Saska Kępa district and provides a Montessori curriculum in French for children aged from 18 months to 6 years old.

The English Playhouse ul. Pływiańska 14a & ul. Rzodkiewki 18,

tel. 22 843 9370, office open 8:00-16.00, www.theenglishplayhouse.com The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów.

The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old. For more info or to arrange a tour of the pre-school or nursery call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email: jnowak@theenglishplayhouse.com

The International Preschool of Warsaw ul. Kalatowki 24, tel. 22 843 0964, ipw. edu.pl IPW is located in a residential area of Mokotów, within walking distance of Królikarnia as well as both tram and metro lines. Children from 2.5 to 6 years old are welcome. English is the language spoken and breakfast, lunch and snacks are provided during the day. Children also have the opportunity to participate in gymnastics, music, art and drama classes. IPW serves the international community and prepares children for international education.

Maple Tree Montessori ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/ Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, www.mapletreemontessori.pl Maple Tree Montessori

is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). Find them located in the Wilanów district of Warsaw, in a house safely nestled into the end of a quiet street.

schools American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, www.aswarsaw.org ASW is a premier college-preparatory international school that offers a PK-12 curriculum, including the IB Diploma Program in Grades 11 and 12. Students are inspired and challenged every day by experienced and dedicated teachers, who provide enriching learning opportunities in a world class facility. For further information and/or to visit our school contact: admissions@aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00.

The British School ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281,

Summer School Join us!

Casa dei Bambini Warsaw Montessori School invites all children for a special summer program from July 6th to August 7th

English spoken all day Montessori curriculum Field trips Special visitors

Art Cooking Gardening Animals, nature and more!

Accepting applications for the For the reservation please contact: children from 2,2 - 5 (Casa program) office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl and 6-12 (Elementary program) tel. 692 099 134 Location: Casa dei Bambini (behind Sielecka 52, Warsaw)

90

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2015

www.warsawmontessori.edu.pl

warsaw montessori school

listings / family open 8:00-16:00, british@thebritishschool. pl, www.thebritishschool.pl Top-ranking private school in Warsaw providing outstanding education based on the British system.

The Canadian School of Warsaw Elementary School ul. Bełska 7, tel.

692 411 573, admission@canadian-school. pl, www.canadian-school.pl The Canadian School of Warsaw is the only authorized school in Warsaw teaching IB PYP in English. The Primary School offers bilingual education for 6-11 year olds. Highly qualified, international staff, challenging materials and a friendly atmosphere provide an optimal setting for the highest standard of education. Extra-curricular activities include visual arts, designing classes, ceramics/pottery, art studio, music lessons (piano, guitar, choir), sports (capoeira, karate, judo, soccer, swimming, gymnastics), languages (English, Polish, French, Spanish, Italian, German) and more.

year olds. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create a perfect learning and creative thinking environment. For further info, tours and school visits call or email. Also home to the Non-Public Psycho-Pedagogical Counseling Centre ‘Olimpia’ (tel. 885 620 066) which examines the level of mental, emotional, auditory and visual-motor functions’ development, and conducts individual and group pedagogical therapy, as well as individual psychotherapy..

Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupery ul. Nobla 16, tel. 22 616 14 99, www.saintexupery.pl Established in 1994, the Antoine de Saint-Exupery preschool and school provides a French curriculum for children aged from 3 to eleven years old in a welcoming family atmosphere. Highly qualified native Frenchspeaking teachers.

Warsaw Montessori School ul. Szwoleżerów 4, tel. 22 841 3908, sylvia@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www. warsawmontessori.edu.pl Focuses on the Montessori curriculum with an education based on the integration of conceptual learning and real-life experiences.

cafes Figa z Makiem (Saska Kępa) ul. Walecznych 64, tel. 512 939 001, open Mon-Sat 10.30-19:00, Sun 11:00-19:00, www.figazmakiem.edu.pl One of the latest and greatest addition to the growing roster of Warsaw kid cafes. Do some well selected designer kids shopping while waiting, or simply browse the books and toys section while your little ones romp in the kids room.

Fiku Miku ul. Zwycięzców 32, tel. 692 448 112, open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-20:00, www.fikumikucafe.pl This small, jolly cafe is dedicated to children. The focus is on films and creative workshops. Designer Polish toys are on sale alongside a healthy menu, and fresh cake selection. Check FB for updates as this café closes for private birthday parties.

Vancouver School ul. Globusowa 38, tel.

887 808 266, vancouverschools.pl The teaching The Canadian School of system here combines the best practices Warsaw Middle School and aspects of the Polish and Canadian ul. Olimpijska 11, tel. 885 420 044 / 885 education systems, with daily classes in Kalimba 620 066, secretary.olimpijska@canadianEnglish conducted in accordance with the ul. Mierosławskiego 19, tel. 22 839 75 60 school.pl, www.canadian-school.pl Provides proven method of ‘immersion’ using modern or 501 183 953, open Mon-Fri 9:30-20:00; YOUR PREMIUM EDUCAa continuation of PREIB education forGIVE 11-15 CanadianCHILD and BritishA materials.

Sat-Sun 10:00-20:00, www.kalimba.pl

TION

GIVE YOUR CHILD A PREMIUM EDUCATION

www.thebritishschool.pl

founded in 1992

www.warsawinsider.pl

91

listings / family Kalimba café caters to Warsaw’s boho-chic community. Relax with long latte’s or nibble healthy snacks whilst kids climb a spiral staircase to the indoor tree house, role-play in the kitchen area or join creative workshops.

The shop, with original handmade toys is tempting, but it’s the pick’n’mix candy that’s unavoidable!

café divides its limited square meters evenly between parent and child expectations, creating space to relax, eat and play in: however, the gigantic doll’s house does suggest Barbie got the best deal.

exclusive shopping street it’s an Aladdin’s cave of quality toys and Polish/English books. Get your gift wrapped here and both mum and child will be happy even before opening it.

shops

Kolonia ul. Łęczycka (corner of Ładysława), tel. 661 064 944 or 605 084 804, open 9:00-20:00, www.kolonia-ochota.pl Not just an excellent cafe, Kolonia is aslo equipped with a garden/ playground. Kolonia is the most kid-friendly (and pet-friendly) place in the area, offering fresh daily specials and a staff that always welcomes you with a smile.

Bimbus ul. Wilcza 69, tel. 22 628 5140, open 10:0018:00; Sat 10:00-14:00. www.bimbus.com. pl Accessories, clothes, furniture and toys for parents who pamper their child with nothing but the best. Brands include Tartine et Chocolat, Quax, Woodwork and Theophile & Patachou.

Muppetshop ul. Kazimierzowska 43, tel.

532 689 212, muppetshop. pl An innovative concept store that offers a wide range of brands and products targeted at young people – babies, juniors, teenagers. The portfolio includes full-service for expecting parents as well as complete interior projects (from 0 to the first-owned apartment). On top of that expect a wealth of other design products (kitchen accessories, decorations, toys, bags, books etc.) from carefully selected brands such as Quax, Lodger, Chispum, Shnuggle, Collegien, Jielde, Gubi and many more besides. It all serves to make it the No. 1 spot for your youngsters shopping.

Nabo ul. Zakręt 8, tel. 22 842 0256, open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:30; Sat-Sun 9:00-21:30, www.nabocafe.pl Nabo is run by a Danish couple and its light and minimalist interior – designed by those who created R20 – lends itself to every occasion. But aside from its tasty and seasonal dishes, it’s the children’s corner that is causing the biggest commotion.

Peek-a-boo ul. Karola Chodkiewicza 7, tel. 22 370 21 71, open Mon-Sun 10:00-20:00 The pale palette and plush velvet upholstered furniture might not be the first choice of fabrics around sticky, chocolaty paws but every mummy needs a bit of luxury from time-to-time. The

92

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2015

Endo www.endo.pl Endo is the original home of quality children’s wear that embraced great design by Polish artists and accompanied it with Polish slogans. Much of the materials used are organic, hardwearing and wash well.

Lullaby Multiple locations, www.lullaby.pl Jam packed with funky design and quirky gifts for your little ones. However, the exquisite clothing and designer labels do come with a hefty price tag.

Mimbla ul.Mokotowska 51/53, tel. 22 629 3065, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 10:0014:00. Exclusively for kids on Warsaw’s most

Pieluszkarnia ul. Topiel 12, ul. Mandalińskiego 25, tel.

22 713 8275, open Mon-Fri 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-15:00. www.pieluszkarnia.pl This small chain specializes in eco-friendly toys and clothing designed and produced in Poland. Products include the Lalanka dolly clothing collection, luxuriously soft reversible winter balaclavas and Martello blankets personalized for births etc.

health & beauty cycling stores & service Bikeman Al. Wyzwolenia 14, bikeman.pl On-road, x-road and off-road bikes, with brands including Alpina, Burley, Ergon and Giant.

Accessories include helmets, gloves, backpacks plus everything you need to revive your bike if it passes out.

Galeria Sztuki Rowerowej ul. Widok 10, tel. 507 202 572 Glorious bikes, many of them vintage, and many of them in colors that’ll make you the talk of the town. Not just affordable prices, they also promise to fix your bike for free should it suddenly conk out.

TOP TENNIS COURTS PRESTIGE WARSAW (ul. Wybrzeże Gdyńskie 2, tenis.warszawa.pl) Żoliborz-based club offering English-language tennis tuition for all ages. Eight all-weather clay courts are available with rental costs starting at zł. 40 per hour.

LEGIA TENNIS CLUB (ul. Myśliwiecka 4A, tenislegia.pl) Ten clay courts as well as a fullyfledged tennis academy and kids classes. That it hosts the most prestigious tennis tournaments in PL says it all.

SILVA SPORT (ul. Puławska 531, silvasport.pl) Ten tennis courts with playing surfaces including artificial grass, clay and hard. Outdoor and indoor courts, as well as two squash courts. For beginners, five lessons cost zł. 450.

SINNET CLUB (ul. Gołkowska 2, www.sinnet.pl) An exclusive members sport club featuring full-size indoor tennis courts, two external courts, three squash courts, a 25 meter swimming pool plus spa and gym facilities.

WARSZAWIANKA (ul. Merliniego 9, tenis.centrumwarszawianka.pl) Apparently its Europe’s largest tennis complex – there’s 29 courts in total with surfaces including clay and hard (decoturf) and the opportunity to play indoors or out.

Kettler ul. Okopowa 56, tel. 22 826 3541, pl.kettler. net The world-renowned Kettler brand brings the full extent of their offer to Warsaw. On the bike front that means mountain bikes, city and their innovative e-bikes. This being Kettler, find also numerous other products to contribute to your active lifestyle.

Wygodny Rower Various locations, tel. 888 498 498, wygodnyrower.pl Bike store and service center chain dealing with city bikes, fixed gear, single speed and road bikes. A huge range of bikes, running from Abus to Zefal via manufacturers such as Pashley, Fuji and Adriatica.

golf First Warsaw Golf & Country Club ul. Golfowa (Jabłonna), firstwarsawgolf.com Found 25 kiometers from Warsaw, this 20,000 sq/m complex features a par 72, 18-hole championships golf course, all year driving range, luxurious club house and a stunning environment replete with gliding swans and bouncing bunnies! The final hole, set on an island, attracts golfers from across Poland and beyond.

Golf Parks Poland ul. Vogla 19, www.golfparkspoland.pl Keen golfers (all ages) can perfect their swing at www.warsawinsider.pl

93

listings / health & beauty this friendly, well equipped driving range, whilst beginners can opt for professional individual lessons or beginner group programs in English or Polish. Among other features are a chipping area, sand bunker, putting green, pitch and putt course and mini-golf.

gyms Holmes Place Energy Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (C.H. Arkadia), ul.

Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), www. holmesplace.pl Making top-flight gym facilities available to the masses, the Holmes Place Energy brand offers high standard equipment, personal training and group classes. Six month membership available for approx. zł. 200 per month, though prices are subject to change. For latest details enquire direct.

Pure Jatomi Fitness Platinum Zodiak ul. Widok 26, tel. 22 100 3400, open 24hrs, www.jatomifitness.pl Poland’s fastest growing fitness chain has been recognized for excellence after being named SCF Leisure & Fitness Retailer of the Year 2014. Other Pure Jatomi clubs in Warsaw include: Blue City, Galeria Renova, Sadyba Best Mall, Promenada and Targówek.

Holmes Place Premium ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel), tel.

22 851 0563, ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), tel. 22 313 1222, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), tel. 519 436 841, www.holmesplace.pl Those who use it claim the Hilton branch is the best gym in Poland.

Set on two floors, highlights include a 25 meter pool, sauna and steam room and a spacious gym packed with the most modern equipment. Also on-site, a varied timetable of classes, excellent personal trainers and a Green Coffee relaxation area. There’s two more ‘premium’ gyms to choose from, including the one in the Marriott immortalized after Obama’s recent work out there.

RiverView Wellness Centre ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental), tel. 22 328 86 40, www.riverview.com.pl Top-class facilities and equipment, private instructors and small classes. The view from the highest pool in Europe offers a glorious panorama of the city. Annual prices from zł. 4,200 (access from Mon-Fri 6 a.m. to 5 p.m.), zł. 5,760 (all times), and zł. 8,350 for Diamond Membership (includes two personal training sessions per month, a complimentary weekend at the InterContinental, restaurant discounts, etc.).

Little Gym ul. Bruzdowa 56, tel. 22 842 0728, www.thelittlegym.pl Targeted at children, expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-to-child ratio, original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. Englishspeaking, as well.

Elektoralna Dental Clinic ul. Elektoralna 28, tel. 22 620 2140, elektoralna.pl State-of-the-art dental clinic featuring Poland’s first dental tomograph.

Languages spoken include English, German, Spanish and Arabic.

McFit ul. Świętokrzyska 3 (corner of Nowy Świat), tel. 22 313 1400, mcfit.com The budget European chain signals its arrival to Poland with a 2,000 sq/m studio that utilizes the latest technology as well as ‘cyber training’ programs. Open 24/7, with membership from zł. 89 per month.

Pure Jatomi Fitness Platinum Złote Tarasy

ul. Złota 59 (floor 3, opposite McDonald’s), tel. 22 379 7777, open Mon-Fri 6:00-22:30; Sat 8:00-22:30; Sun 8:00-21:00, www. jatomifitness.pl The largest and fastest growing fitness chain in Poland currently has 35 locations and 117,000 members across the country. All clubs have new generation machines, innovative forms of group activities (Booiaka, Hot Yoga, Pure Pump, Pure Fire and Wah Gwan Dancehall) and professional personal trainers schooled in nutrition and the healthy lifestyle.

94

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2015

dental clinics

Odent ul. Nowoursynowska 145E (entry from ul.

Rosoła) & ul. Duchnicka 3, tel. 22 405 4430, odent.pl Dubbed ‘the clinic with a heart’, Odent’s personal approach is complimented by expert staff and the latest and most advanced treatments and equipment.

English-speaking service also available.

medical clinics Medicover Various locations, see website for details: medicover.pl Hugely popular amongst ex-pats, Medicover offer a wide range of membership schemes for both private and corporate clients. The jewel in their crown is a state-of-the-art hospital in the Wilanów district.

Warszawskie Centrum Zdrowia ul. Nowogrodzka 76, tel. 22 857 3014, www.wcz.waw.pl Specializes in the prevention, early detection and treatment of cardiovascular disease.

spas & salons

0 Barberian Academy & Barber Shop ul. Emilii Plater 25 & ul. Koszykowa 9 Barberian is where men gather to celebrate being men. Lauded as the local champion of male grooming, this stand out has a rebel chic layout and barbers who are experts in their field.

Bartek Janusz Salon ul. Mokotowska 19 / ul. Wilcza 72, tel. 22 828 4444, www.bartekjanusz.pl The staff here takes a no-nonsense approach to cutting hair – it goes along with the minimalist chic interiors of the place. According to one Insider: “I’ve never left a salon feeling so happy with my hair.”

Fiuu Fiuu Day Spa ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 629 2414. A wonderful quick fix salon that makes use of the latest Ericson products and other top brands. Regarded as one of the top ladies day spas in the country.

Hair a Porter ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Warsaw Hotel, level -1), tel. 22 558 1555, open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat 9:00-17:00, www. hair-a-porter.pl A staunch favorite among the ex-pat crowd, Hair a Porter offer the ultimate hair experience utilizing talented staff and top-quality products.

The Hermit Barber Shop pl. Bankowy 1, thehermit.pl You know those London barber shops you see in 1930s film reels? That’s Hermit, a thrilling throwback right down to the barber’s pole and checkered flooring. But don’t be fooled,

listings / health & beauty this is as upmarket as it gets, with top quality products and even some 16-year-old whisky with which to pair the experience.

La Perla multiple locations inc. Łowicka 21B/1, Wilcza 22A, Hilton Hotel, klinikalaperla. pl Here, the staff is adept and certified at a range of innovative treatments: from the non-invasive Bella Contour treatment to the Body Tite and Body Jet treatments that use the latest surgical procedures to slim and tighten. For summer the right spa/salon/ clinic is key. La Perla’s all three in one!

La Plata ul. Wielicka 42, tel. 517 576 667, laplataspa.pl Manual and mechanized massage in a relaxed space inspired by Buddhist philosophy. Treatments include herbal stamp Thai massage and hot coconut oil massage amongst others.

Le Spa ul. Mokotowska 55, tel. 22 622 9428, open Mon-Fri 9:00-21:00, Sat 9:00-16:00.

This little island of peace and beauty takes you light-years away the day to day bustle.

Retro Day Spa Al. Ujazdowskie 18/11, no. 311, tel. 22 622 03 69, www.retrodayspa.pl Royally indulgent interiors hark back to a different century, though the treatments are all hi-tech and include packages for pregnant women among the variety of beauty offers.

Studio Jej i Jego ul. Wiertnicza 93A, tel. 22 885 0085, open Mon-Fri 9:00-21:00; Sat 9:00-19:00, www. jejijego.pl Hair and beauty treatments for men and women – inc. nail care, massage, facial and body treatments.

sport BGZ Arena / Velodrome ul. Andrzeja 1 (Pruszków), tel. 22 738 8394, bgzarena.com Bring a cycling helmet and you too can take a spin around the velodrome in Pruszków. Bike hire possible, with spins priced at approximately at zł. 40 per hour. For further details enquire directly.

Frogs & Co. warsawfrogs.com While it originated as an expat team, Warsaw’s only social rugby club welcomes all: supporters, players, young, old, men and women. The rugby is taken seriously, and so too is the social side.

Hash House Harriers Billing themselves as ‘the drinking club with a running problem’, the Warsaw chapter of the Hash House Harriers meets every couple of weeks and welcomes runners and walkers of every level. Search for them on Facebook for further details.

Warsaw Cricket Club ul. Romatyczna 3, warsawcricketclub.pl The oldest cricket club in the country is mainly

comprised of Brits, Poles and South Asians.

New members and supporters are welcomed – for details check their website.

Warsaw International Triathlon Club warsawtriclub.com Serving the needs of the athletic community, the WITC is open to all interested in the disciplines of swimming, cycling and running.

swimming Aquapark Wesolandia ul. Wspólna 4 (Wesoła), tel. 22 773 9191, wesolandia.pl Features a recreational pool, kids pool and a 25 meter pool for more serious swimmers. Also on-site, a water tube, Jacuzzi, tennis and fitness facilities.

Private Coaching Tel. 512 517 013, anthonypst.wix.com/ anthonypst Ozzie Anthony offers one-onone swimming classes conducted at your venue of choice. Fully qualified, he offers tailor-made lessons for all ages and all levels of proficiency.

Wodny Park ul. Merliniego 4, tel. 22 854 0130, wodnypark.com.pl When looking for a pool, most look no further: on-site find an Olympic swimming pool, recreational pool complete with artificial river, slides and tubes, a Russian ‘banya’ zone, not to mention other attractions like bowling and squash courts.

Odent was established to ensure the highest level of service on the dental map of Warsaw. We offer flexible hours, cutting edge technology and two branches in convenient locations in Żoliborz and Ursynów.

Scope of services: • Orthodontics • Teeth Whitening • Cutting-edge prosthetics

• Dental surgery and maxillofacial implants • Conservative treatment, cosmetic dentistry

• Treatment of children • Root canal treatment of teeth using traditional microscopic • X-ray lab

Żoliborz: ul. Duchnicka 3 bud.4, entrance A • Ursynów: Nowoursynowska 145 E (entrance from ul. Rosoła), www.odent.pl, tel. 22 405 44 30

www.warsawinsider.pl

95

in the city

In the myopic dash to get to Old Town, the tendency amongst sightseers is to sidestep ul. Karowa in its entirety – but this eye-catching street has treasures of its own… Start at the Bristol Hotel, an iconic landmark completed in 1901 and co-founded by piano virtuoso Ignacy Paderewski. Years later, when he was elected Prime Minister, Paderewski held the first session of his government here. Its status as a popular wartime hangout for German top brass saved it from devastation, though a full post-communist revamp was needed to see it back to its best. Reopened by Lady Thatcher in 1991, it continues to serve Warsaw as one of the top hotels around, something attested to by a guestbook that name drops McCartney, Scorsese and a whole list of others.

Next door the find Dom Spotkań z Historią, a cult gallery space whose rooms largely deal with temporary exhibitions focused on Polish modern history. Across the road in Skwer Twardowskiego, don’t miss their open air exhibition showcasing some of the earliest photographs taken of the capital. More permanent features of the park include a monument of author Bolesław Prus who, ironically somewhat, was a vigorous campaigner against public statues.

You can’t miss Karowa 18A, a remarkable piece of communist architecture unveiled in 1978. Looking like a concrete version of Tetris – what with its falling oblong shapes – in the pre-war years the site was formerly occupied by a panorama illustrating Napoleonic scenes, a Jewish theater and a 2,000 seater cinema before being bombed into ruin in 1939. While Karowa does extend further, most stop at the twisty Stanislawa Markiewicz viaduct. Opened in 1904 (though the date under one of its statues declares 1905), the crowning glory of this intricate thoroughfare is a statue of Warsaw’s official mascot: a sword wielding mermaid. Finish off with a visit to Galeria Karowa housed in the arcades below.

96

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2015

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

STREET WALKING ul. Karowa

listings / in the city VISITORS accomodation 5-Star Hotels

Bristol Hotel ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1000, bristol@luxurycollection. com, www.hotelbristolwarsaw.pl

H15 Boutique ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 553 8700, info@h15ab.com, www.h15ab.com Hilton Warsaw ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555 / 800 44 11 482, www.hilton.com InterContinental ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com Mamaison Le Régina Hotel Warsaw ul. Kościelna 12, tel. 22 531 6000, www. mamaison.com Marriott Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 6306, www.warsawmarriott.com Regent Warsaw Hotel ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, reservations@regent-warsaw.com, www.regent-warsaw.com The Rialto Boutique Hotel ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8700, www.rialto.pl Sheraton ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6100, www.sheraton.pl Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-warsaw

Westin Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, www.westin.pl

4-Star Hotels

Airport Hotel Okęcie ul. 17-ego Stycznia 24, tel. 22 456 8000, www.airporthotel.com.pl Hampton by Hilton ul. Wspólna 72, tel. 22 317 2700, hamptoninn3.hilton.com Radisson Blu Sobieski pl. Zawiszy 1, tel. 22 579 1000, www.sobieski.com.pl Mecure Warszawa Centrum ul. Złota 48/54, tel. 22 697 3999, www.mercure.com Mercure Grand Warszawa ul. Krucza 28, tel. 22 583 2100, www.mercure.com Courtyard by Marriott Hotel (Airport) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 0100, www.warszawacourtyard.pl

Hotel Reytan ul. T. Rejtana 6, tel. 22 201 6400, www.reytan.pl

apartments

InterContinental ul. Emili Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com Long and short stay apartments provided by the hotel of the same name. Perks included are the same as those received by hotel guests: i.e. access to the top floor pool, room service, maid service etc.

MaMaison Residence Diana ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 9100, www.mamaison.com/diana A beautiful city center location from the same team behind Le Regina. Short and long term stays.

B&B

Between Us Bed & Breakfast ul. Bracka 20, tel. 22 8285417 (from 10 a.m. to 11p.m.), www.between-us.eu

Novotel Warszawa Centrum ul. Marszałkowska 94/98, tel. 22 596 0000, www.novotel.com, www.accorhotels.com

Boutique B&B ul. Smolna 14/6, tel. 22 829 4800, www.bedandbreakfast.pl

Polonia Palace Hotel Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. 22 318 2800, www.poloniapalace.com

Chmielna Guesthouse ul. Chmielna 13, tel. 22 828 1282, www.chmielnabb.pl

Warsaw Plaza Hotel ul. Łączyny 5, tel. 885 886 100, www.warsawplazahotel.pl

car rental

3-Star Hotels

Hotel Belwederski ul. Sulkiewicza 11, tel. 22 840 4011, www.hotelbelwederski.pl Castle Inn Pl. Zamkowy, ul. Świętojańska 2, tel. 22 425 0100, www.castleinn.pl Golden Tulip ul. Towarowa 2, tel. 22 582 7500.

Holiday Inn Express Warsaw Airport ul. Poleczki 35, tel. 22 373 37 00, www.hiexpress.com

Sofitel Warsaw Victoria ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8011, www.sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com

Hotel Belwederski ul. Sulkiewicza 11, tel. 22 840 4011, www.hotelbelwederski.pl

Novotel Warszawa (Airport) ul. 1-ego Sierpnia 1, tel. 22 575 6000

Avis tel. 22 572 6565, Fredrick Chopin Airport, tel. 22 650 4872, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 575 6583, Reservations: tel. 801 120 010, www.avis.pl Hertz Rent a Car Okęcie Airport, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel.

22 650 2896; mob. 691 411 130. ul.

Nowogrodzka 27 (D5), tel. 22 621 1360.

Sixt Rent a Car ul. Arabska 9, tel. 22 511 1550, 22 511 1555, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 2031, www.sixt.pl Trust Rent a Car ul. Marynarska 14, tel. 22 843 0580, www.trustrentacar.pl www.warsawinsider.pl

97

listings / in the city useful numbers Foreign Assistance Tel. 608 599 999 / 22 278 7777 Information in English, German and Russian available from June 1st to September 30th from 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. seven days a week.

Tourist Information ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (airport), Rynek Starego Miasto 19/21/21A, Pl. Defilad 1 (PKiN), tel.

22 194 31, warsawtour.pl

RESIDENTS relocation companies Express Relocations ul. Szyszkowa 35/37, tel. 22 878 3539, www.expressrelocations.com Euro Move International Movers ul. Kineskopowa 1, Piaseczno, tel. 22 716 5566, www.euromove.pl AGS Warsaw ul. Julianowska 37, Piaseczno, tel. 22 702 1072, www.agsmovers.com CorstJens Worldwide Movers Group ul. Nowa 23, Stara Iwiczna, tel. 22 737 7200 DuX Consulting Agency ul. Panieńska 9/28, tel. 22 670 4280 or 502 216 606 www.duxconsulting.com.pl Express Relocations ul. Szyszkowa 35/37, tel. 22 878 3535, www.expressrelocations.com Euro Move International Movers ul. Kineskopowa 1, Piaseczno, tel. 22 716 5566, www.euromove.pl Interdean International Relocation ul. Geodetów 172, Piaseczno, tel. 22 701 7171, www.interdean.com

Move One Relocations ul. Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 8160, www.moveonerelo.com Also immigration assistance, fine art shipping, pet transport and consulting services.

98

Warsaw Insider | JULY 2015

aimed at every level. Using over ten years of experience, the leaning process becomes an adventure at Klub Dialogu.

Relo Planet ul. Lwowska 5, tel. 22 658 1958, reloplanet. com International and domestic removals, transport and logistics solutions including office and individual moves, diplomatic posts, small shipments, storage and artwork.

storage Wiecej Miejsca Tel. 733 002 014, www.wiecejmiejsca.pl A new storage service that will even go so far as to pick up your items for you and transporting them to their guarded warehouse.

They’ll also the supply the storage bins which typically fit 90 books, 100 t-shirts, 90 jumpers. Larger items like bikes, suitcases can also be left with them.

pets

Bone Pet Club ul. Jedności 118, tel. 507 144 044, petclub.pl Dogs, cats, rabbits, rodents, birds and many other pets are welcomed inside this ‘hotel and spa’ designed exclusively for their use.

Facilities include grooming, lodging, pool, pet taxis and socialization classes. All pet sitters speak fluent English.

polish for foreigners

Lingua Polonica linguapolonica.com.pl. Email: linguapolonica@linguapolonica.com.pl.

Lingua Polonica offers general Polish language classes, Polish for business and Polish for diplomacy. Individual learning programs are tailored to the needs of individual clients. Private and small-group classes available on a variety of levels for competitive prices. Professional, friendly and dedicated instructors. They even offer a free trial lesson for beginners.

Modern.edu School of Language Al. Jerozolimskie 11/19 lok.21, tel. 22 881 85 14, biuro@ modern.edu.pl, modern.edu. pl. A wide range of Polish classes and customized courses at attractive prices - either in small groups or private classes.

Schola Polonica ul. Jaracza 3, tel. 22 625 2652, schola.pl Master Polish in a friendly atmosphere. All levels catered for, with groups never going beyond a maximum of five people.

community Anglican Church in Warsaw ul. Krakowskie Przedmiescie 62, tel.

880 580 628, anglicanchurch.pl English language services follow the order of the services of the Anglican Communion and are conducted by Rev. David Brown. Services are held each Sunday at 10:30 and 16:00.

International Christian Fellowship ul. Puławska 326, icfwarsaw.org Interdenominational services in English (10:30am, Edu & More Sunday). Facilities, programs and community IN JANUARY E-LEARNING ul. Marszałkowska 87 lok.

81, tel. 22FOR 622 FREE!activities for all ages: children, students and Contact us for more details.

1441, eduandmore.comBusiness & everyday adults.

Polish. Full-time courses and innovative courses of Polish online. Experience, good InterNations location & price friendly. Students of full-time www.internations.org Drawing professionals courses get online course for free. from home and abroad the mission of InterNations is to bring together ‘global POLISH LANGUAGE SCHOOL Klub Dialogu minds’. Now an established part of Warsaw’s FOR FOREIGNERS ul. Ordynacka social and corporate circuit, their monthly TAILOR-MADE individual and13/5, minigroup courses - intensive - tel. regular 664 788 004, ARY meetings have become Must Do events on IN JANU - weekend ING at the school or at your place klubdialogu.pl schedules round town.

E-LEARN !

First Lesson Free EE Free conversation classes FOR FR Outstanding programs for www.klubdialogu.pl Contact us tails. info@klubdialogu.pl foreigners living Poland International Women’s Group of Warsaw e de mor forin tel. 664 788 004 offer a variety of courses iwgwarsaw.eu Unites expat women in

listings / in the city Warsaw and offers cultural, educational and recreational activities. Meetings are held on the second and fourth Monday of the month.

Professionals in Warsaw meetup.com/Professionals-in-Warsaw New to town? There’s few better ways to give your social life a jump start than popping along to one of the informal drinks mixers conducted

by Professionals in Warsaw. Natives and foreigners of all backgrounds and professions are welcomed – all you have to do is buy your own drinks. Search for them on facebook.

St. Patrick’s Foundation www.irishball.pl The Irish Ball, held on the Saturday closest to St. Patrick’s Day, is legendary in Warsaw as the biggest of the balls. It’s the main annual fund-raiser of the foundation, which distributes the funds raised to various charities over the course of the year.

Taste of the Classics www.fnok.pl A Taste of the Classics is a classical music, fine art and dinner entertainment, held regularly in prime locations.

The events alternate between formal and semi-formal dress and are held in English.

Attendance is by invitation and includes dinner and wine.

Toastmasters International www.toastmasters.org.pl Toastmasters is the international organization for improving public speaking and presentation skills. The local club meets every Wednesday at 19.00.

Guests are always welcome without any obligation apart from a short introduction.

museums Car Museum ul. Warszawska 21 (Otrębusy), Find vehicles of every description: Lech Wałesa’s Volvo, German wartime armor and a pretty-in-pink Buick Skylark. It’s incredible in its peculiarity, with the random layout, oily smells and dark, cobwebbed corners only adding to the sense of treading somewhere special.

Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. 22 596 4100, kopernik.org.pl Interactive, witty and surprising, Copernicus allows visitors to experience an earthquake, blast recyclable objects into space and become a mystery cracking detective.

CSW ul. Jazdów 2, csw.art.pl Situated in a baroque-style castle the center hosts artists from all over the world. The on-site bookshop is of particular interest for artists and intellectuals. From June 26: Rudiments. This solo project by UK-based artist duo Adam Broomberg & Oliver Chanarin consists of a set of new photographic, moving image and performative works that collectively explore tensions between discipline and chance, precision and chaos, empathy and the involuntary pleasure of watching the pain of others.

Dom Spotkań z Historią ul. Karowa 20, dsh.waw.pl The History Meeting House wins points for frequently excellent exhibitions that cover topics such as ‘rebuilding Warsaw’ and ‘Socialist Realist architecture.’ It won’t take longer than twenty minutes to peruse whatever exhibition is on, but it’s still a very worthwhile diversion and one of the city’s top secrets. Ongoing until October 18: First Photographers of Warsaw: Beyer, Brandel, Fajans. Ongoing until June 28: Wave After Wave: everyday life on board Polish Navy ships during WWII. This exhibition depicts the everyday life of Polish sailors: from crews at work to enjoying their free time. From June 19: Tatra Atlantis.

A photographic story that details how the Podhale region was changed irreversibly by the effects of industrial progress and mass tourism.

APARTMENTS FOR SALE

The Heritage Interpretation Center ul. Brzozowa 11-13, mhw.pl Beginning with a gigantic tapestry of Warsaw circa 1873, this little known venue tells the complex story of Old Town’s reconstruction. Walking over a glass floor, beneath which lies smashed masonry and columns recovered from the ruins, a series of then-and-now slides and pictures document Old Town’s annihilation.

If the first section about Warsaw’s physical elimination is poignant, then the others do a fabulous job of sharing the optimism and alacrity that followed.

The Fryderyk Chopin Museum in Warsaw Ostrogski Palace, ul. Okólnik 1, chopin. museum Recognized as one of the most hi-tech museums in Europe, computer chip tickets allow visitors the chance to personalize the museum experience as never before.

Over 5,000 objects are present, among them Chopin’s pocket watch, his last piano, a lock of hair and even his death mask.

tel. +48 697 908 776 www.wielicka45.com www.warsawinsider.pl

99

listings / in the city Invisible Exhibition Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, niewidzialna.pl Nothing challenges the sense of sight more than a total lack of it. Confused? Head to the Invisible Exhibition to learn first-hand the challenges faced by the blind. This includes everything from crossing the road to ordering a drink in a bar.

Jewish Historical Institute ul. Tłomackie 3/5, jhi.pl Officially opened in 1947 the Jewish Historical Institute was created to serve as an archive of Jewish culture in Warsaw. It contains artwork, historical artifacts and important documents from the city’s rich Jewish past.

Królikarnia ul. Puławska 113A, krolikarnia.mnw.art.pl Fine art galore inside an elegant suburban palace. The curator has decided to show some forgotten treasures from the rich archives of the National Museum. The gallery also hosts more contemporary works, such as those by Nicolas Grospierre and Agnieszka Polska.

Legia Museum ul. Łazienkowska 6, legia.com Aside from silverware affirming Legia’s status, find a vast collection of shirts, pennants and paintings (even part of an old floodlight). Pride of place goes to Legia’s favorite son, 70’s super star Kazimierz Deyna.

Museum of Life Under Communism ul. Glucha (opposite Soho Factory), tel.

606 225 525, adventurewarsaw.com Run by the excellent Adventure Warsaw tour guide company, the Museum of Communist Life brings together aspects of communist life through dioramas that present typical living quarters of the time and a milk bar. Displays are numerous and quirky, and include a restored Saturator machine, a collection of commie hoovers, not to mention medals from the owner’s own family. A must see!

Polin - Museum of the History of Polish Jews ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl Composed of eight galleries, each covers a different stage of local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day. Covering 4,000 sq/m, highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec synagogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical interwar Jewish Warsaw street.

Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw ul. Pańska 3, artmuseum.pl The first museum of modern art in Warsaw, still fighting for a proper location, bravely manages to provide visitors with a display of contemporary Polish and international art. Ongoing till August 23: Lest The Two Seas Meet. Inspired by the Arab Spring, presents the works of numerous international artists, among them Mona Hatoum, Emily Jacir and Walid Raad. From June 12: After Year Zero. Explores the rise of two ‘curtains’ in the immediate postwar order – the Iron Curtain in Central Eastern Europe, and the Color Curtain in the post-colonial world.

WARSAW at your fingertips...

Check Out The Insider Online Designed to reflect the nature of a dynamic and energizing capital, the Online Insider brings you unique digital features such as our weekly blog, the latest news and views from the streets, as well as all the regular features and reviews found in Poland’s premier English-language magazine.

See for yourself at: www.warsawinsider.pl

100 Warsaw Insider | JULY 2015

Museum of Technology Palace of Culture, pl. Defilad 1, muzeumtechniki.warszawa.pl Following a maze-like route in the Palace of Culture, there’s curios aplenty: a Viennese calculator dating from 1898 that’s still in working order; a glowing ‘glass lady’ that lights up to demonstrate the inner workings of the body; communist era sports cars; a WWII Enigma machine. More pertinent to the younger generation, there’s a selection of vintage phones and laptop computers that hipsters would give their life for, not to mention hilarious TVs from days yore.

National Museum Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars. Ongoing until September 6: The Pope of the Avant-Garde. Tadeusz Peiper in Spain, Poland and Europe. The exhibition presents the relationship between avant-garde art and literature of the early 20th century, taking the oeuvre of Tadeusz Peiper as its central point.

The Neon Museum ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum. org This amazing project brings together the neon lights that once illuminated the city.

Among the collection are 35 landmark signs, many of which date from the 60s and 70s.

Palmiry National Memorial Museum Palmiry, palmiry.mhw.pl An excellent multi-

listings / in the city media exhibition set next to a cemetery holding the graves of 1,700 Poles executed in the first years of Nazi occupation. The museum tells their forgotten story, with archival video footage complimented by exhumed exhibits and plenty of background info dealing with the siege and subsequent occupation of Warsaw.

Pawiak ul. Dzielna 24/26 What was once a Tsarist prison assumed a doubly sinister function under the Nazis. Some 100,000 Polish political prisoners were held here, 37,000 of which were executed on-site. Split in two sections, cells are found on one side, while on the other the full story of the invasion a nd occupation.

Poster Museum in Wilanów ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 10/16, www.postermuseum.pl With a collection that touches the 55,000 mark, here’s the biggest poster museum in the world – and also the original. Art spans the period from 1892 till 2002, and while the majority is Polish orientated works on display also include those by Dali and Warhol.

WARS – Polish rail’s buffet division?

Outside, stroll around a remarkable collection of beasts outside. These include a 1942 German armored train – apparently the only one of its type surviving in Europe – not to mention the personal carriage of Bolesław Bierut (Poland’s post-war leader), the rusting carcass of a 60s train and interwar steam engines straight out of Thomas the Tank Engine.

The Royal Castle in Warsaw Pl. Zamkowy 4, zamek-krolewski.pl Meticulously restored after WWII, highlights inside include the lavishly restored 18th century royal apartments with 22 paintings

by Bernardo Bellotto (known as Canaletto), the Senators’ Chamber in which the Constitution of the Third of May was signed, the biggest collection of oriental rugs in Europe in the tin-roofed palace and two remarkable Rembrandt paintings.

Warsaw Rising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl Cope with the crowds to discover the definitive story of the 1944 Uprising. Exhibits range from a full-size replica of a Liberator plane, to a sewer beneath the cinema screen and a slice of bread preserved from 1944.

And don’t miss the ‘City of Ruins’, a five minute 3D film which takes you on an aerial journey over devastated Warsaw.

For panoramic views of Warsaw check the view tower, and don’t miss the garden outside with it’s preserved Tobruk bunker.

Railway Museum ul. Towarowa 1, muzkol.pl Presented in scale model form, in here find hundreds of trains detailing the development of the Polish rail network. Not interested? Then maybe the three model railway villages will stir childhood memories or how about learning about

Wola Museum ul. Srebrna 12, mhw.pl An unexpectedly amazing museum that’s been turned around thanks to its ambitious, young staff. Once a dank, dusty space, the reinvention includes ‘the room of one object’, whose single exhibit changes each month. There’s the New Varsovians exhibition, dedicated to the young students who arrived to Warsaw in the 1860s and 70s, and the Wola Laboratory, a multimedia exhibition with a focus on the district. All this new wave gadgetry is to be augmented by real objects on the first floor, not to mention an archive of amateur film – the first such archive in Poland Zachęta National Art Gallery Pl. Małachowskiego 3, zacheta.art.pl Probably the most famous gallery in Poland, this Zachęta has a thrilling, and at times controversial repertoire that makes it a must for modern art buffs. Ongoing: Filko – Fylko – Phylko. The different stages of Stano Filko’s life are covered in what is being lauded as the most extensive presentation of this Slovakian artist’s life ever to be seen in Poland. Ongoing: John Lurie – I am trying to think. Please be quiet. So they say: ‘this presentation of contemporary works by John Lurie constitutes an attempt to reconsider this ’90s icon, to confront this image and show the artist in a new light.’ Ongoing: Wild West.

History of Wrocław Avant Garde. Nearly 500 works covering the architecture, urbanism, cultural and everyday life of Wrocław from the 1960s to the the present day.

w W a r s a www.city-tour.com.pl

Yellow Double-Decker Bus

Invites you to experience a panoramic tour of tourist attractions of the capital of Poland, Warsaw, in a relaxing and comfortable way.

Traveling over the course of approximately 1,5 hour, a double-decker bus will take you past many beautiful and interesting places of Warsaw, such as its interesting districts, palaces and churches, monuments and museums, parks and historical cemeteries, as well as the Jewish historical sites.

A GPS 12 language audio-guide, will give explanations and accompany you to make your ride a more adventurous, exciting and an unforgettable one.

Excellent Hop on Hop off and one trip service operates every day all year round.

5% DISCOUNT with this ad

Line approved by municipal authorities.

www.city-tour.com.pl

+48 500 033 414

www.warsawinsider.pl

101

3

Stadion Narodowy

6

11 5 9 4

7 13

12

8

1 10

13 12 Kulskiego

Chodk iewicza

Żaryna

11 10

Biały K amień

9 8

2 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

LOOKING BACK

Iron In The Fire

N

icknamed the ‘Iron’ by locals because of its preelectric clothes-iron shape, the Kacperski tenement house at Marszałkowska 1 is a favourite of many due to its eye-popping dimensions… but it’s a beauty with a dark side! The early-modernist, eight-storey building was constructed between 1909-13 on the edge of the then Plac Keksholmski (later renamed Plac Unii Lubelskiej in 1919 on the 350th anniversary of the union of the Polish and Lithuanian kingdoms), on an unusually long and narrow plot that gave the building its unusual dimensions, similar to those of the famous Flatiron building that had been completed in New York a few years earlier.

At the time, it was one of the two tallest residential buildings in Warsaw, indeed in any part of partitioned Poland, yet due to its shape it had the smallest internal courtyard in the city measuring just 2mx4mx8m; so small, in fact, that it still only serves only to let light into the kitchens and bathrooms. A further curious feature of the courtyard is that it starts from the level of the second storey.

When it was completed, it offered residents an astonishing range of mod cons, including elevators (one of the original elevators is still operating), electricity, gas cookers,

104 Warsaw Insider | JULY 2015

central heating and even a central vacuum cleaning system!

The building emerged from the 1939 German siege of Warsaw and later Soviet air raids relatively intact. At the end of the war, the Nazis slated the building for destruction along with the rest of city and made several attempts to burn it down, but thanks to the strong design of the lower levels the fires were not able to spread.

It was only in 1955-56 that city rebuilders got round to reshaping the tenement house in a socialist mould. There were calls for the ‘eyesore’ to have several storeys knocked off to create greater architectural harmony in the area.

Luckily, these demands weren’t met and to a large extent the building has retained its pre-war form.

The post-transformation period hasn’t been kind to the ‘Iron’. In the 1990s, the city authorities decided to turn many of the apartments into social welfare flats and the building soon turned into a slum with the worst kind of tenants.

Drunkenness, brawling and narcotics productionwere not uncommon, all of which were accompanied by the fetid stench of stale urine in the stair wells. Even today, those interested in visiting the building would be wise to restrict themselves to marvelling at its splendid exterior form...

PHOTOGRAPH PAP

This issue we take a look at one of the great architectural glories of Warsaw –and find that all is not what it seems… BY STUART DOWELL

Always something new Tables: +48 694 413 439 platinium@platiniumclub.pl 6, Fredy Street, Warsaw www.platiniumclub.pl /platiniumclubpl Door selection Dress code: casual elegant