Warsaw Insider June 2015 #226

Sundays With Chopin page 10

Warsaw

Chris Niedenthal

Walls of Warsaw page 24

Moving? page 14

June 06 price zł.10 INDEKS 334901 ISSN:1643-1723

(226)

2015

(VAT 8% included)

PRETTY PIĘKNA Eat, Drink & Do

BALMAIN CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN HERVE LEGER ISABEL MARANT KENZO MONCLER GAMME ROUGE RALPH LAUREN SALVATORE FERRAGAMO SIMONETTA RAVIZZA TOD’S TORY BURCH VALENTINO

Moliera 2 tel.: 228277099, www.Moliera2.com

JUNE 2015 Editor-in-chief Alex Webber

insider@warsawinsider.pl Art Director Kevin Demaria insider@warsawinsider.pl Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com

June. So it’s said, ‘if a June night could talk, it would probably boast it invented romance.’ If that’s true, then no-one told Warsaw. This time of year, romance is the last thing on the city’s mind. Spending, as it does, a substantial amount of the year buried under grim colorless skies, this is the month where the town drops its somber robes and flicks the party switch – just because the nights are shorter, that doesn’t mean the nights out are.

And boy, what a diary you have in store: one weekend alone brings with it the Orange Festival, the annual Pride parade and a book fair that features an attempt to break the world record for the number of people (and dogs, stress the organizers) reading outside. Weekends like that make Warsaw feel on top of the world. That hasn’t always been the case. Reminding us of the past is the work of Chris Niedenthal, and we’re delighted to bring you a bumper interview with this globally acclaimed photojournalist. Elsewhere, we celebrate the beauty of Piękna, spend an afternoon with Chopin and breathe a sigh of relief over the rescue of some muchloved public art. Till next time, adios!

INFRONT

Opener 7 News 8 Music 10 Artisan 12 Public Art 14

FEATURES

Take a Street Piękna 16 Interview: Chris Niedenthal 24

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Warsaw Insider | JUNE 2015

Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

LISTINGS

Restaurants 44 Cafes & Wine Bars 72 Nightlife 76 Shopping 83 Family 86 Health & Beauty 91 In the City 94e

REVIEWS

Uki Uki 30 Rusiko 31 Ba Adriatico 30 Tapage 32 Thai Thai 34 L’enfant Terrible 36

PARTNER NEWS

The latest marketplace news from the Warsaw Insider’s friends and advertisers… 37

INBACK

Classifieds 101 Map 102 Looking Back 104

Contributors: Gill Boelman-Burrows Stuart Dowell Maria Mileńko Michał Miszkurka Ed Wight Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com Key Account Manager A. Julita Pryzmont jpryzmont@valkea.com Key Account Manager Adam Fogler afogler@valkea.com Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com Subscription 12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland.

Orders can be placed through: insider@warsawinsider.pl Printed by Zakład Poligraficzny TECHGRAF Tel. (17) 225-28-69 VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies.

All information ©2015 Warsaw Insider.

on the cover We’ve spent a fair chunk of time exploring Piękna this issue, and found few places more dandy than the cracking Dandys bar. So here’s to our summer HQ… (Illustration by Michał Miszkurka)

PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT

It’s the strangest of months,

CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN MEN FAY GIANVITO ROSSI MEN KENZO MONCLER RALPH LAUREN SIMONETTA RAVIZZA TOD’S TOM FORD TORY BURCH VALENTINO VICTORIA BECKHAM YVES SALOMON

BABY DIOR DOLCE & GABBANA KIDS DSQUARED2 KIDS KENZO KIDS MONCLER KIDS RALPH LAUREN KIDS TOD’S KIDS

this month...

CONCERT

FESTIVAL

Every Sunday, 12:00 & 16:00 @ Chopin Statue, Łazienki Park Listen to some of Poland’s top talents – young and old – recite works from Chopin’s oeuvre in the rose-edged gardens of Łazienki Park. The Sunday concerts run each summer and attract thousands.

12-14 June @ ul. Hoża 51 A three day festival that aims ‘to merge literature, entertainment, urban space, media and people’. Events for Englishspeakers include meetings with authors Hanif Kurieshi, Zadie Smith and Sophie Hannah, as well as a world record attempt for the number of people (and dogs!) reading together outside.

Chopin in the Park

For info see: estrada.com.pl

COMEDY

Improv Sunday’s Every Sun, 20:00 @ Cafe Niespodzianka, ul. Marszałkowska 7 A theatrical English-language performance group with a focus on improvised comedy. They say: “we’re always looking for talented people to join us on stage.”

For info see: improve.pl

CONCERT

Rise Against 10 June, 20:30 @ Progresja Music Zone, Fort Wola Described as the ‘only truly relevant punk rock band in mainstream music’, a night with Rise Against promises to be loud, anarchic and fun.

One to Watch Two Nights with the Alexander von Schlippenbach Trio Consisting of von Schlippenbach, Evan Parker and Paul Loven, this free jazz trio have thrilled audiences for over 25 years. Tickets: zł. 40.

10 & 11 June, Pardon, To Tu, pl. Grzybowski 12/16

Ticket details unavailable at press time.

FESTIVAL

Match & Fuse Festival 11-13 June @ Café Kulturalna, Pl. Defilad 1 A touring exchange network and annual festival with the primary aim of connecting creative scenes across Europe.

The star turn this festival is jazz man Alfie Ryner.

Ticket details unavailable at press time, for info see: matchandfuse.com

FESTIVAL

Orange Warsaw Festival 12-14 June @ Służewiec, ul. Puławska 266 Warsaw’s biggest music festival moves to the race track this year, with confirmed acts including Noel Gallacher’s High Flying Birds, The Chemical Brothers, Mark Ronson, Incubus, Papa Roach and many more besides.

Tickets from zł. 279 @ orangewarsawfestival.pl

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Warsaw Insider | JUNE 2015

Big Book Festival

For further info, see: bigbookfestival.pl

CONCERT

Groove Base Oldsters 13 June, 17:00 @ Café Baobab, ul. Francuska 31 Café Baobab’s concerts are the stuff of legend, turning a small section of Francuska into an open-air party. Expect the Oldsters to play a mix of reggae, afro beat, funk and acid jazz.

Admission free

PARADE

Equality Parade 13 June, 15:00 @ Sejm, ul. Wiejska Conservative attitudes, and past attempts to ban the parade altogether, have done little to damage the momentum of the annual equality parade. Full of color and fanfare this year’s route begins at the parliament building and concludes at pl. Bankowy.

For details, see: paradarownosci.eu

EVENT

Wianki nad Wisłą 20 June @ Park Podzamcze (Multimedia Fountains) Celebrate midsummer at the fountain park, with concerts and a dazzling firework display all planned. The program was still under wraps as we went to press, but expect huge crowds and a host of Polish pop stars.

FESTIVAL

International Yoga Day 21 June, 8:00 @ Pole Mokotowskie For the first time ever Poland will be joining this global celebration of yoga.

The program includes yoga sessions, workshops, lectures, picnic and a play space as well as a closing piano concert in the evening with Artur Dutkiewicz scheduled to perform.

For further info, see: dzienjogi.pl

CONCERT

Roxette

22 June, 18:00 @ Torwar, ul. Łazienkowska 6A The best-selling Swedish pop-rock act will be airing all the old hits as part of a massive world tour titled XXX The 30th Anniversary Tour.

Tickets from zł. 140 @ livenation.pl

CONCERT

Toto

24 June, 18:00 @ Torwar, ul. Łazienkowska 6A Best known for tunes like Africa and Rosanna, Toto arrive in Warsaw with over 35 million album sales under their belt. Aside from their greatest hits, these legends will be playing tracks from their latest studio album, Toto XIV.

MEDIA PATRONAGE

OF LOVE

5 June (Premiere) Teatr Syrena, ul. Litewska 3

Divided into two parts, Of Love is the creation of the Warsaw Ballet, a new contemporary company founded by former Polish National Ballet soloist Natalia Maria Wojciechowska. The first part, titled Unlike Any, is a neo-classical ballet choreographed by Wojciechowska and featuring the music of Bach, Satie, Barber and Part. Next is Don’t Wake Me, choreographed by Bartek Woszczyński, a powerful performance that explores the paradox of love and addiction.

Ticket details unavailable at press time.

RUN

The Color Run 27 June A 5k run with the emphasis on ‘color’ and, you know what’s coming next, ‘fun’.

Loosely inspired by the Hindu Festival of Colors, the route will feature ‘music and color zones’, in which participants can expect to be pelted in a myriad of different dazzling colors.

For ticket and route details, see: thecolorrun.pl

FESTIVAL

Street Art Festival 27 June-6 July @ various locations The festival showcases abstract, often hilarious, street theater plays courtesy of troupes from the Czech Republic, Ukraine, Belarus, France and Poland. The festival aims to integrate art within the everyday landscape of the city, and as such you can expect events to take place in parks, subway passageways, squares and other public spaces.

For info, see: sztukaulicy.pl

CONCERT

Lodovica Comello 28 June, 19:00 @ Hala Ursynów, ul. Pileckiego 122 This Italian actress and singer is arguably best known for her role as Francesca in the Violetta series. Her fledgling singing career has seen two albums released to date, including the 2015 effort Mariposa.

Ticket details unavailable at press time.

www.warsawinsider.pl

5

We invite you to our second location

Restaurant DomPolski ul. Belwederska 18 a Warszawa tel; 22 840 50 60 ; 22 840 50 15 e-mail. belwederska@restauracjadompolski.pl www.restauracjadompolski.pl

in

What’s hot, what’s not: the faces and stories trending around town THE SCANDAL IN NUMBERS

12,000 Facebook users

Who ‘like’ the store

6,500

Facebook users

Who have since rated the store with one star

1,500 Złoty

Fined for vandalism if found guilty under Article 63A

4.5

Average Facebook rating Before Kostrewa’s post went viral

5

Years max.

In prison if found guilty under Article 288 of the Criminal Code LOCAL

ILLUSTRATION BY MARIA MILEŃKO

The Writing On The Wall

A Warsaw ‘skate shop’ caused public outrage at the end of April after graffiti tags seemingly championing the store were daubed on walls across Muranów. Using his Facebook profile to vent his displeasure, local Michał Kostrzewa posted pictures documenting the widespread damage as well as a brief message urging people to let Hip Hop Shop AK-47 know how they felt: “half of Muranów has been destroyed,” wrote Kostrzewa, “including many newly renovated facades… it’ll only take two seconds to let them know what you think.” It didn’t take long for the message to go viral.

Originally, the shop’s management appeared to sanction the vandalism, even going so far as to make a Facebook post bragging about it. With the backlash mounting, and thousands voicing their criticism on AK-47’s page, the shop removed the post before, eventually, issuing a half-hearted apology that speculated the graffiti was either the work of their over-enthusiastic fans or, even, a smear campaign masterminded by their rivals. While their crocodile tears brought snorts of derision, proving culpability has been harder – as of press time no one had been brought to book and the matter brushed under the carpet. (AW)

1.2

Average Facebook rating

For the store since the incident hit Facebook

182.2

People per 100,000 in Poland

Annually report having property damaged by graffiti

30

Percent

Of graffiti artists are eventually caught in Poland www.warsawinsider.pl

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inFront

news SPORT

Going Swimmingly

Warsaw’s most famous swimming pool is set to be reopened following the completion of a zł. 13 million refit. Carried out under the watchful eye of the Department of Conservation, the modernization of the Palace of Culture’s pool lasted 20 months and has seen the implementation of overdue hygiene, sanitation and fire protection standards.

MOTORING

Vroom With A View

Following the success of their visit in 2013, the former Top Gear team of Clarkson, Hammond and May are booked to return to Warsaw this October. A record crowd of 58,000 turned up to cheer the lads last time, and a similar turnout is expected this year. Tickets, which start at zł. 129 and rise to zł. 999, are available on ebilet.pl, with the National Stadium earmarked to host the event.

Polish Shorts

A 64-year-old Łódź man has been charged with the illicit production of weapons after it was discovered he was selling one foot long blades concealed inside walking sticks adorned with decorative hounds. The wannabe’ swordsmith was caught out after selling his wares at thrift markets around the city for prices that reached zł. 400. If found guilty, the amateur armorer faces a stint in jail.

A Polish man was stopped at Auckland airport after an alert dog sniffed something funny coming from his groin: as it transpired, the man was smuggling plants in his pants. The haul included a bulb, a tuber, seeds and ‘itchy ivy’ taken from an undisclosed Polish castle. Excusing himself, the greenfingered horticulturist claimed he simply wanted some new plants for his New Zealand garden.

FILM

The Starlight Room

Forget the sterility of the multiplex or sitting with your knees round your ears in an art house kino, this summer is all about the drive-in. Two such cinemas are scheduled to open in Warsaw, and you can get a piece of the action yourself by parking up at either CH Marywilska 44 (which will be showing Jobs at 9.45 p.m on June 27th), or Marsa 56C (which screens Impossible at 9.45 p.m on June 24th).

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PHOTOGRAPHS FROM TOP SHUTTERSTOCK, COURTESY OF PKIN, SHUTTERSTOCK

A customer who suspected a pizza delivery driver of being drunk came up with an ingenious way of seeing the culprit brought to justice: by placing a hoax order on behalf of the local police station.

Officers on duty at the Siedlce police station were puzzled when their unwanted pizza turned up, but moved to arrest the tipsy driver after noticing booze on his breath.

inFront

music

Sunday’s With Chopin

You know that the Polish summer has arrived when Łazienki Park begins its Sunday cycle of Chopin concerts…

BY Stuart Dowell

T

he first Chopin concerts were organized in Łazienki Park in 1959, shortly after the composer’s monument was rebuilt and put back in its place near the park’s main entrance next to the Belweder Palace. The monument itself has had a troubled history; the idea to raise a statue for Poland’s greatest classical composer first appeared when Warsaw was a provincial yet troublesome outpost of the Tsarist Empire.

A competition was held and the winning sculptor, Wacław Szymanowski, set to work on the statue depicting Chopin sitting on a Mazovian pussy willow tree.

The First World War and Poland’s various campaigns to establish its new borders delayed the project and the monument was first revealed in 1926.

On May 31st, 1940, on the orders of Nazi Hans Frank, the monument was blown up, cut into small pieces, melted down and used to make weapons. It was the first

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monument to be destroyed by the Germans in Warsaw, possibly because of its location in the German district and the need for raw materials but also for its symbolic significance. The Germans said it was ugly.

The Nazis also ordered all copies of the monument around Poland to be destroyed, meaning that after the war it was difficult to find a faithful imitation that could be used for its reconstruction. A complete copy was only discovered when Szymanowski’s house was cleared of rubble in 1946. On May 11th, 1958, the monument was placed on its pedestal, which had earlier received the inscription: “This statue of Frederic Chopin, demolished and taken away by the Germans on 31 May 1940, is being rebuilt by the nation.”

The recitals that take place under Chopin’s gaze also have their history. Initially, the season of outdoor concerts was inaugurated with a performance by a full orchestra. In the 1970s, additional evening concerts were held that played music by contemporary composers, while in the 1980s the late afternoon concert included readings of romantic poetry by well-known stage actors. The current formula consists of two performances, at noon and 4 p.m., each Sunday.

World-class pianists have always regarded playing in Łazienki as a great honor, despite the unpredictable weather and poor acoustics. In fact, on occasion performers have had to endure danger – during one of her recitals, Polish pianist Halina CzernyStefańska was stung on the hand by a wasp, yet bravely completed the piece to the delight of the audience.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

“ The recitals that take place under Chopin’s gaze also have their history”

No limits

summer shopping Free concierge service: shopping assistance, taxi booking, flowers delivery, table booking in restaurant and cafes. Call and order: +48 22 531 45 00.

Klif. Dom Mody. Okopowa 58/72, Warsaw, info point/concierge +48 22 531 45 00 klif.pl, facebook.com/KlifWarszawa, instagram.com/dommodyklif, blog: inspiredbyfashion.pl

inFront

artisan “ The difference here, however, is a sense of passion for the project”

On The Bread Line

I’

ve never wanted to be a cop (hide!), but in some ways my job is similar: each day I get well-meaning tip-offs from the public, and it’s one of my duties to check them out. The info (“found a brill restaurant, go!”) usually turns out to be a hoax, but nonetheless I’m obliged to check out the scene like some foodie Columbo. This time though, I had a hunch things would work out. My informant was a Frenchman, and when he told me he’d found Poland’s best bakery I had to take note. He was dead on.

Launched late last year, Aromat (ul. Sienna 39) are part of a wave of artisan bakeries taking Warsaw by storm. The difference here, however, is a sense of passion for the project. “We’re not jumping onto a trend,” says Matthieu, one half of the mother/son team behind the space, “it might sound like a recent thing but Poland has always had a strong bread-making tradition. The problem was things went wild in the 90s and quality was lost – people

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became brainwashed by big brands and were happy to get their bread from a supermarket chain. Now it’s our job to convince these same people that what we offer is a step ahead.”

The thinking is simple. “Good bread needs good flour,” says Matthieu, “which is why we work with a small French mill. But you also need knowledge – an extra 30 seconds in the oven can make a huge difference.” For this reason, each month Aromat are visited by representative of the mill they cooperate with. “The first time they visited,” recalls Matthieu, “our own baker turned to me and said, ‘I can’t believe it, it’s like learning a new job’”.

Ultimately, this attention to detail has borne fruit. Even so, Matthieu is keen to avoid the trap of Warsaw’s other cult bakeries. “You visit some and their croissants are more expensive than Paris! But bakeries shouldn’t behave like they’re part of some luxury movement – good bread is for everyone.” And that includes you and me…

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

On the back of a hot tip, the Insider visits Aromat, a bakery that’s revolutionizing the way that Warsaw sees bread…

inFront

public art

Saved

Watch this Wall!

A controversial plan that threatened the future of one of the city’s best loved works of public art has been shelved after locals reacted with fury…

BY GILL BOELMAN BURROWS

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Warsaw Insider | JUNE 2015

I

n 2010 Italian artist Blu was invited by the V9 group to paint a wall in Warsaw. Famous for his epic scale works in urban and industrial landscapes he gifted Warsaw a mural that, true to his style, confronted political events and other socialistic controversies in today’s modern age. Covering an area of 1,200 sq/m, the project, on the side of ul. Sienna 45, was realized in under 48 hours and portrayed a group of soldiers controlled like marionettes by unseen forces.

But behind closed doors and with little effort to investigate public opinion, a select few from The Dept. of Public Space Aesthetics, The Theatre Institute and Good Looking Studio recently committed to a scheme to replace the acclaimed artwork with a promotional campaign celebrating 250 years of Polish theatre. However, they did not anticipate the power of social media and public persuasion! A day after the scaffolding went

Gone

Monkey Business Dzielna 72, ETAM Cru Painted in 2013 by the internationally acclaimed Polish street art group ETAM Cru, this wall mural unfortunately had a short street life span. It has now disappeared behind the wall of yet another luxury office/apartment block.

Gone

Edelman Nowolipki 9B, Dariusz Paczkowski & Crew In 2013 this mural was created to commemorate the 70th anniversary of the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising and, in particular, Marek Edelman, a prominent leader during the insurrection.

The building’s residents decided to paint over the mural.

restored up so did the posts on Facebook: within 24 hours a petition was in place to save the mural.

Early comments from the hapless trio managed to get them into deeper water than before, and in order to cover their own backs they began apportioning blame on each other. It’s unclear which party made the first move to cancel the project but it was the Theatre Institute whose statement confirmed the plan had been postponed until a more suitable wall was found; a job they have put to the general public and Dept. of Public Space in Warsaw. Blu has made no public comment on these developments. But if we take notice of his recent actions in Berlin, whereby after much contention, the artist himself painted over his murals with black paint, then maybe Warsaw should keep an eye on this wall! (For more on Warsaw’s street art check: facebook.com/wawa.blabla)

Pencils Gen. Andersa 27, Dariusz Paczkowski & Children from Primary School 32 This jolly mural, dedicated to Janusz Korczak, a Polish-Jewish pediatrician, was recently tagged with graffiti. Residents were incensed and requested the support of the artists and local sponsorship to restore the mural to its former glory.

www.warsawinsider.pl

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TAKE A STREET PIĘKNA

Life is Piękna (and a little bit Koszykowa)

This issue the Insider takes a prowl to explore the stories surrounding the sultry streets of Piękna and Koszykowa. BY ALEX WEBBER | PHOTOS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

S

ashaying grandly from one end of the center to the other, Piękna street is, in parts, just that – beautiful. Laid out in 1771 to form part of a street plan known as the King Stanisław Axis it’s lavishly sprinkled with pre-war palaces, Cold War monstrosities and vibrant bursts of parkland and greenery.

In short, it offers a snapshot of everything you may love (and hate) about the Polish capital…

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The Embassies

The fluttering flags and heavy police presence give the game away: the eastern section of Piękna falls slap bang in the middle of the diplomatic quarter. The embassies that proliferate the district are very much a pick-andmix assortment of the good, the bad and the ugly, and sometimes, remarkably, a combination of all three. For example, take the French Embassy on Piękna 1. What is

it: an upturned milk crate? A giant, plastic space toy from the Buck Rogers age? Or a stroke of architectural genius?

Either way, construction on this beauty / beast began in 1971 after General de Gaulle laid the foundation stone, with a comprehensive update in 2004 bequeathing the embassy its current look. Strangely beguiling, it’s a source of genuine fascination that leaves passers-by pondering just what Austin Powers weirdness lies inside.

Opened in 2001, the nearby Canadian Embassy was voted Warsaw’s ‘Best Public Building’ the following year, and has been cited numerous times for architectural awards. Aiming to convey Canadian values of ‘transparency and openness’, quirky features of this complex include landscaped gardens filled with rocks and plant life from across the ocean. For those stuck on the other side of the fence, content yourself by browsing the changing placards that promote Canada’s achievements: at press time that meant a charmingly idiosyncratic rundown of the nation’s 21st century innovations (fatigue measuring watches, soundproof tents and something called a boulder buster!).

Then, on the corner of Ujazdowski and Piękna sits the home of Switzerland’s diplomatic mission. Built in 1865 under the direction of Leandro Marconi, it was the aspiring architect’s first major project, and helped launch a

Strangely beguiling, it’s a source of genuine fascination that leaves passers-by pondering just what Austin Powers weirdness lies inside...

glittering career that would later see him design the Great Synagogue. Destroyed during the 1944 Warsaw Uprising, this ornate palace was restored soon after the war thanks to the joint efforts of Simon Syrkus and Hans Schmidt.

Gazing at this masterpiece it’s easy to picture black-tie balls and immaculate butlers carrying towers of Ferrero Roche.

The U.S Embassy next door acts as a wake-up call.

Conspicuous by its catastrophic hideousness, it’s a piece of Mordor that causes pedestrians to quicken their pace lest some spooks burst out and bundle you in. As if you needed telling, thoughtful signs remind the public that guns and photography are strictly forbidden. The thing is, it could have been so different. The Czetwertyński Palace which stood on this spot limped out of the war in halfdecent shape, and was rented out after by its legitimate owners to Polish Radio. However, in a twist of irony the Czetwertyński family were accused of spying (for, yes, www.warsawinsider.pl

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TAKE A STREET PIĘKNA

the US) and arrested. While incarcerated their property was confiscated and sold by the state to the American government, who proceeded to knock the building down and build a spy-proof fortress in the early 1960s. Scary, intimidating and much, much more, it’s a blunt reminder of Cold War intrigues.

The Green Bits

How often have you heard a district described as being ‘a city within a city.’ It’s a tired expression, exhausted and overused. But Warsaw has something different, something better: a village within a city. Tucked behind the French Embassy lies an idyllic little secret dubbed The Finnish Houses. Set amid tree-lined tracks lies a collection of timber cabins hidden from the world. Walking around them is akin to entering a small, magic world: the smell of wood-fired stoves wafts gently in the air, squirrels dart from tree to tree and the only sounds are the tweets of the birds.

Built in 1945 to house the architects and engineers recruited to rebuild Warsaw, the materials for the cottages were imported from Finland and originally meant as just a temporary measure. Seventy years on and they’re still here… By the skin of their teeth. Originally consisting of over 200 houses, the vast majority have been knocked

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down to make way for new embassies and faceless developments. But for all the encroachment of the modern world, some have doggedly survived and together they form a completely unique community. Slated for demolition not long back, a campaign to save them has handed them a lifeline.

While meandering around this serene sanctuary you may find yourself on ul. Lennona. What’s that all about?

So the story goes, on the first anniversary of John Lennon’s death, the artistically inclined residents of The Finnish Houses staged an impromptu celebration of his life by marching down the street singing Give Peace A Chance.

Ten years later the street was renamed in honor of him, and today has something that some might describe as a shrine to the Beatle: a couple of photos pinned to the fence and the occasional memorial candle glimmering in the night.

Further on, Park Ujazdowski cannot be missed. Enter from Piękna and you so seen why. Having been greeted by a monument of a saluting gladiator, lose yourself amid gently curving paths that take you past nooks and alcoves filled with curiosities: a statue called Ewa (designed by Edward Witting, a former student of Rodin), a rock pool, and a teeny, tiny bridge whose railings have been embellished with lovelocks. And with dogs forbidden, don’t be

surprised to find a few enterprising locals taking their kittens for a walk.

Pressing on, Skwer Batalionu AK Ruczaj fills a triangular space where Mokotowska and Piękna intersect. Once filled with towering tenements, the area was gutted during the Uprising – such was the ferocity of the fighting that two informal ceasefires were arranged to clear the dead bodies. After the war, in a rare triumph for socialist planning, it was decided to turn the area into a memorial park, though even so it faced a new battle in 2011 when plans were mooted to build a skyscraper on the plot.

Thankfully, common sense has prevailed.

And The Rest…

Moving down Piękna and one reaches one of Warsaw’s primary communist stains: pl. Konstytucji. Built in the aftermath of the war to serve as a blueprint ‘propaganda district’ for officials and party favorites, it essentially reinvented the pre-war map and look of the area, replacing tight, teetering tenements with bombastic Stalinist architecture amplified by the addition of reliefs depicting Utopian ideals. For a taste of what came before, nick into Koszykowa 49 where construction crews are busy remodeling one of the few surviving buildings.

In actual fact, many of the architects that went on to

But for all the encroachment of the modern world, some have doggedly survived and together they form a completely unique community...

reshape post-war (and post-Cold War) Warsaw, learned their trade at the Department of Architecture found at Koszykowa 55. Among these were Arseniusz Romanowicz (who would later design Central train station) and Stefan Kuryłowicz, best known for contemporary works like the Prosta Tower.

Not all of this stretch was wrecked by barmy architects, and a fine example of ‘old Warsaw’ can be admired on the corner of Lwowska and Koszykowa. Completed in 1912, it’s a beautiful ensemble of turrets, towers, balconies and crenellations and, if rumor is to be believed, will house a luxury hotel in the coming years.

Beyond, and let the sound of wrecking balls and swearing builders lead you to what remains of Hala Koszyki at No. 61/63. Only two wings survive of this historic Neo Gothic market hall, with work in full swing to transform the empty gaps into a multi-use residential / retail and office complex. www.warsawinsider.pl

19

TAKE A STREET PIĘKNA Dandys Bar & Art Kafe

Murano Casa

Superiore

Food & Drink Ave Pizza

Piękna 56 Piękna 56, avepizza.pl Already established in Powiśle, the Ave team have expanded to the center with a more mature menu that goes beyond (admittedly brilliant) pizza basics. In a city relatively rich in Italian offerings, Ave’s still manages to feel something beyond a little special.

Batida

Marszałkowska 53, batida.pl You visit Batida for the atmosphere, for that sense of history and tradition. Touting the kind of interiors that make you feel tiny, the Belgian-style pralines and chocolates also deserve a tip of the hat. It’s a Warsaw classic.

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Dandys Bar & Art Kafe

Piękna 15, dandysbar.pl Mark our words: this summer the beautiful people will be drinking artisan cocktails – and mainly in Dandys. Yet as elegant and glam as it is, the primary pull are drinks of genuine innovation.

By their reckoning 99% of the products on offer are certified as organic.

Dawdle over freshly quoted coffee, or descend the stairs to clack about on the board games. Immediately relaxing, Organic thrives as a happening meeting spot throughout the day.

Bobby Burger

Marak

Koszykowa 67 There are times you think the only way this franchise could be improved would be via a letter bomb campaign. In fairness, the Koszykowa operation is the best of the lot – great staff, decent fries and 10 taps serving craft-ish beers from zł. 5 upwards.

Organic Coffee Piękna 19, organiccoffee.pl

Warsaw Insider | JUNE 2015

Piękna 20 Basic, basic, basic, and slightly at odds with its salubrious neighbors.

Still, this simple soup kitchen is the kind of bargain the city center needs. That it’s been around for over a decade proves they’re doing something right.

Mercato

Piękna 15 The earth doesn’t exactly move at Mercato, yet it

still feels like the kind of place that adds something important to Piękna. A deli / restaurant hybrid, the neighborhood atmosphere is well suited for quick in-and-outs to pick up a bottle of wine or ingredients for dinner.

Piękna Bistro

ul. Piękna 20, jazzone.pl A slick looking jazz spot that pulls off a contemporary style while never losing atmosphere.

In part that’s due to a musical menu that sees regular use of the piano in the corner.

Piękna Mery

Piękna 22 There’s a spontaneity to this café / bar, with the incidental design featuring an indiscriminate compilation of zebra print surfaces, lava lamps and

even pics of Kermit & Piggy. Find a solid selection of boutique IPAs in the fridge.

Śmierć w Wenecji Piękna 68A A narrow, brick-walled dive bar serving zapiekanka (imagine a halved baguette with mushrooms, cheese and ketchupy gunk), shots and Perła at five zlots a pop. Not a bad selection of craft beers either, as well as sport on the tele.

Student types love it.

Superiore

ul. Piękna 28/34, superiorewinebar.pl The great range of Mediterranean wines is only bettered by the considerate owner who prefers to think of your enjoyment rather than the cash till: expect honest advice

11TH JULY FROM 7 PM

BASTILLE DAY

BALL COME JOIN THE GREATEST EVENT OF THIS SUMMER! BALL ON THE OCCASION OF THE FRENCH NATIONAL HOLIDAY!

french cuisine

dj and dancing party

wine tasting and open bar

many other attractions

WWW.CCIFP.PL ORGANIZER – THE FRENCH-POLISH CHAMBER OF INDUSTRY AND COMMERCE

/DZIENFRANCUSKI

BUY YOUR TICKET IN THE RESTAURANT ENDORFINA FROM 20 OF JUNE. PRICE: 100 – 130 PLN. FRENCH BUFFET AND OPEN BAR INCLUDED.

ENDORFINA, UL. FOKSAL 2

TAKE A STREET PIĘKNA

Ave Pizza

Silly Design Space

when choosing. The food isn’t shabby either, with a succinct Italian menu that nails it each time.

Totomato

Piękna 28/34 A one-time contestant of the Top Chef program, chef Marcin Piotrowski grabs the limelight with his reemergence at Totomato. Branded a ‘deli, bistro and culinary academy’, this standout champions ideas of slow food and healthy living: the Mazurian farmed snails are exceptional.

By Day Bang & Olufsen

Piękna 18 No introduction required, surely? For the very best in television and audio look no further than the staggering Piękna salon.

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Di Trevi Boutique

Piękna 11A, ditrevi.pl Aimed at both him and her, Di Trevi present the freshest Italian footwear releases from prestige brands such as Ballin and Loriblu. Handbags are also available inside interiors that exudes luxury.

Maison Creative

Mokotowska 45, maisoncreative.com.pl Deck out your pad in flouncy French style with simply extraordinary furniture from the Mis en Demeure brand. If you really want to push the boat out, then the interior design solutions of Dorota Kowalczyk are inspired.

Murano Casa

Piękna 24/26A, muranocasa.pl Calling Murano Casa

Warsaw Insider | JUNE 2015

‘interesting’ would be courting severe understatement. From high bling (fancy chandeliers and gob-stopping furniture) to more moderate offers (Venetian carnival masks), it’s a great place to add some pizzazz to the home. The quality of the Italian brands can’t be disputed.

rostowskibarbershop.pl Forget the dangerous sports car, to be The Warsaw Man you only need a beard. Get yours trimmed and twiddled to male model perfection inside this upscale, antique looking space.

While you’re there, stock up on grooming products from Captain Fawcett.

Pan Tu Nie Stal

Loft Hotel Sen Pszczoły

Koszykowa 35/40, pantuniestal.com Polish design at its peak: fashion is prominent, but there’s also interesting bitsy things such as aprons, jam jars, notebooks and mugs – all with a defiantly Polish twist. Eccentric, unusual and emphatically ontrend, it’s a must-visit.

Rostowski Koszykowa 58,

Piękna 66A & Piękna 21, loft.senpszczoly.pl A candidate for Poland’s most unique hotel, rooms in Sen Pszczoły leave you agape: snarling tigers painted on the walls – yep. A bed on industrial pallets – check. Suspend your disbelief and revel in one of the most genius designs you could possibly imagine.

SH Store

Koszykowa 58, shstore.eu Streetwear is the specialty, with footwear from Converse and Nike and clothing by labels such as Polar Skate and Skate & Destroy. If you must, complete the look by splurging on skateboards and longboards from Deck Chocolate.

Silly Design Space

Piękna 47, sillydesign.pl Looking for framed illustrations of bears dancing with sailors? Maybe a mug with a cheery croc gnashing his teeth? Or perhaps an owl-shaped salt shaker? Then Silly Design are here to help – find great little gifts from a brand with a wicked sense of humor.

2014 Home delivery up to 6 km 5 PLN, 6km and more 10 PLN

al. Solidarności 129/131, tel. 536 335 333, open daily 12:00 -22:00 More info: www.facebook.com/madraskuchniaindyjska

PORTRAIT BY PAWEŁ KRZYWICKI

INTERVIEW

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Warsaw Insider | JUNE 2015

A Shot in Time

Award-winning photojournalist Chris Niedenthal talks about his work documenting everyday life in Communist Poland…

What’s your connection to Poland?

My parents were Polish and came to Britain as wartime migrants. They waited till 1963, when I was 13 and Stalin was long dead, before we came over, on holiday, as a family. After the age of 15 I kept returning here in the summer on my own. I guess for some people their roots mean little, but for me they meant a lot. Forget that the political system was terrible, I just loved the country.

How did the photography begin?

I got my first camera when I was 11, a Kodak Starmite – my parents gave it to me as a present after I passed my exams to get into grammar school. I remember visiting Poland two years later and in those days loads of people would use their bathrooms as a little darkroom when everyone else had gone to bed. One time I got back from the coast with my uncle and we went into his darkened bathroom to develop the photos. That’s when I first saw the magic of the photographic prints coming up in the developer, in the red light. I caught the bug. I never really considered becoming anything other than a photographer.

How did you start as a professional?

When I was studying photography one of my lecturers owned a features agency just off Fleet Street. He took me on as an all-rounder doing darkroom duties, filing photos, going off on assignments... During that time I went on another trip to Poland and discovered a museum of beehives close to Poznań, in Swarzędz:

the kind of place where the hives were shaped like bears or girls in folk costume. It was the first big photo story I sold. I continued visiting Poland but wanted to see it in ‘real time’, not as a tourist. Growing up I felt like I had one leg planted in the British camp and another in the Polish camp – but the Polish leg always felt longer. I figured, well, if I’m going to be Polish then I might as well live there for a while. I wangled a journalist exchange job with the state press agency and they gave me a working visa. Basically I kept prolonging that for as long as I could before they gently thanked me.

Then it was time to get accredited as a foreign correspondent.

All captions by Chris Niedenthal “Apocalypse Now. Martial law in a nutshell. For Poles, it sums up their feelings towards the Soviets. The Moscow cinema.

The name of the film. The armored personnel carrier parked outside…”

Which other stories stand out…

So the second big one I did was about a monastery that had its own fire brigade – you had all these monks running around in habits and helmets! I actually sold that myself to Paris Match and then the pictures went global. I really did try and avoid doing news stories, but the news found me. Looking back, it was three Poles who formed me and my later career: Pope John Paul II, Lech Wałęsa and General Jaruzelski. In spite of not speaking French I’d become accredited as a French correspondent when everything started happening. The election of the Pope returned this country to the European map and here I was living in Poland.

It wasn’t that I was any better than the Polish photographers, but I could speak good English and as an accredited journalist also legally ship my films abroad. www.warsawinsider.pl

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INTERVIEW

“Warsaw, October 1979.

The Palace of Culture is there. Central Station too. Even the flyover is there. All the rest is history.”

“The Emilia furniture store in central Warsaw.

You could wander through the shop and look at furniture, but actually buying it was a different matter. There is a little sign in this photo saying that you can only buy this particular set-up if you had made a prepayment in July 1981.

The photograph was taken in late 1982.”

“Ząbkowska Street in the Praga District.

Advertising billboards, if they existed at all, were minor works of art – hand-painted murals. Shot in early 1982.”

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Warsaw Insider | JUNE 2015

And from there it snowballed…

In June ’79 the Pope visited. Newsweek sent their own, trusted photographer, and I was just their unknown local back-up. But it was me who landed the cover and most of the inside pictures. A few days later I got a call from their New York office going: ‘who the hell are yah!’

In those days working for publications like Newsweek and Time was just about the best thing that could happen – they wanted the best photographers, they paid well and they’d spare no expense. They needed to have film on their desk by Friday evening New York time, so we’d usually shoot until Thursday and ship our films by air freight to New York via Frankfurt, or if time was of the essence, to London or Paris to catch the early morning Concorde to New York. I never got to travel on Concorde, but my pictures did!

Time for the inevitable Apocalypse Now question… What happened when Martial Law was declared in 1983?

Lots of foreign TV stations were holding Christmas parties that night. Throughout the evening there were whispers that the phones weren’t working, that people were being arrested, but we were partying so didn’t give it a second thought. I got home at about 3 a.m. and saw a car standing outside with its headlights dimmed and thought, oh, that’s a bit strange. As it turned out it was a friend inside: ‘grab your camera,’ he said, ‘something’s happening.’ I didn’t see my wife for about a week after that. My friend and I went around shooting everything we could, of course in secret, from hiding places: by that time the lines were dead, the airport was sealed, and the Solidarity HQ ransacked. We crossed a bridge and saw barricades by the roadside ready for use. The Apocalypse Now photo was simple. I knew immediately that the whole scene was a wonderful play on words – come on, parking an armored vehicle under a sign declaring Apocalypse Now, they were asking for it! The difficulty was getting the film out of Poland.

How did you manage?

I knew if I tried leaving the country myself there was the chance of being stopped at the border and searched. And even if I did make it out of the Poland, then there was the possibility I wouldn’t be let back in – I had my wife and child here so couldn’t risk that. Instead I headed to Dworzec Gdański which was where the 21.50 train to Berlin left. There was a 22:00 curfew in place so I had to be quick. I ran down the corridors and found a West German student. I didn’t lie to him, I told him what I had and asked him if he could get my film to Newsweek’s Bonn office. From there, everything was in the lap of the Gods. I only learned several weeks later from a Finnish correspon

“Warsaw, July 1981. A notorious ‘social list’ outside a shop selling household appliances. Knowing that there was going to be a delivery of washing machines, fridges etc., a disorderly queue would form. This man took matters into his own hands and made everybody sign a list, every few hours. If you did not turn up to sign it again – you lost your place in line. Simple.”

“ In those days working for publications like Newsweek and Time was just about the best thing that could happen” www.warsawinsider.pl

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INTERVIEW

“ A few years back I picked up the dossier that the secret police had kept on me... they’d given me the nickname Kret”

“A Warsaw flea market in 1982. A wide range of goods would be on sale here – meaning virtually anything and everything.”

dent that my pictures had made it into print.

As for the student, I’ve never found out who he was. I’d love to thank him.

Do you ever tire of talking about ‘that picture’?

Every time December comes around I know what’s coming. I know I’m going to be getting calls about it. But I shot the photo, so I’ll take the consequences! Besides, it’s nice to have taken at least one picture that people really appreciate, at least by the people here.

Did your work make you a target?

Yes, people were looking into my life. A few years back I picked up the dossier that the secret police had kept on me. For some reason they’d given me the nickname Kret (‘the mole’), and that was handwritten on the front of my file. It was, essentially, 150 pages of silly information, with the first reports dating from 1975.

One of the informants was a guy who lived on the same floor as my mother-in-law. Some of his reports were accurate, others were wrong.

One of his notes mentioned how we brickedup the bathroom window. It was actually to prevent the smell of dead pigeons, but he wrote, ‘The Niedenthal’s have bricked-up the window so I can’t see in!’

Define what a photojournalist is…

It’s a calling. You’re documenting lives. It’s not quite the same as being a straight news photographer, it’s deeper than that. Anyone can take photographs, but not everyone can be a photojournalist. It’s more of an American expression I think, but it’s a good way to describe our work as such a photographer has to have an additional, journalistic instinct.

Back then we didn’t have internet or mobiles and yet we knew everything.

Do you ever get nostalgic?

Of course I remember the old days with nostalgia, but mainly on the basis of my being young then. The stories happening later on, in 90s Poland weren’t so interesting: people making fortunes, people losing them... After what I’d been through that just didn’t seem compelling.

One of the things that first attracted me here was seeing normal people fighting an idiotic system – everything they did was against it. I loved that and was proud to be part of it, to be part of a revolution and photographing history in the making.

The signed and framed photographs of Chris Niedenthal are available for purchase at: chrisniedenthal.com. His website was designed by the Warsaw-based creative agency HUNCWOT (Huncwot.com). For an uncut version of this interview, see: warsawinsider.pl

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Warsaw Insider | JUNE 2015

“A used-car market in Warsaw, the ‘giełda samochodowa’. This was shot in the late 1970s, but even then you could buy a (very) used Mini or a rather ancient Citroen 2CV. Any car could be bought or sold – it was very much a seller’s market.”

“Toys on display at the Dom Dziecka, later the SMYK store, on Al. Jerozolimskie in Warsaw in the 1970s.”

“Warsaw 1980. A line would immediately form even for fruit and vegetables. The shop itself proudly displays a fanciful arrangement of canned goods that nobody particularly wants to buy.”

www.warsawinsider.pl

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LISTINGS RESTAURANTS 44 CAFES & WINE BARS 72 NIGHTLIFE 76 SHOPPING 83 FAMILY 86 HEALTH & BEAUTY 91 IN THE CITY 94

There are some things in life worth the wait: the right one, the dream job, the big lottery win, etc. Udon noodles certainly fall under the etcetera bit. Depending on how busy they are, Uki Uki will prepare your noodles fresh within 15-30 minutes, though for shorter waiting times give the weekend a swerve and head down for lunch or after 7 on a weekday. The electric pasta maker, imported from Japan, is a Godzilla of a monster, compressing and even cutting the udon dough into chunky, chewy noodles that provide a solid foundation for a richly satisfying meal. Every now and again a restaurant comes along that makes Warsaw’s dining scene all the more complete – Uki Uki is one of those.

Uki Uki ul. Krucza 23/31, tel. 728 827 705, www.ukiuki.pl

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Warsaw Insider | JUNE 2015

PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

Can’t Hardly Wait

REVIEWS Food With Heart

A small Croatian restaurant gets it right…

l

iving as I do, in the dull nothingness that is Muranów, I sometimes ask myself questions: for instance, ‘why the hell am I here?’ I don’t dislike the area, it’s just that while the rest of Warsaw speeds into the future Muranów feels, well, a little left behind – you know, by 3,000 years or so. But I see hope. I see hope because of places like Adriatico. Sure, it doesn’t promise much – set in one of those low-slung pavilions, views stare onto the demolition derby that is Al. Jana Pawła. But why look out when you can look in. There’s nothing fancy schmancy to it, but it feels intimate and amiable, like all successful neighborhood restaurants should.

But what really clicks is the food. Croatian cuisine doesn’t really fall under my area of expertise, but I can say I like it – a lot.

As a starter, then the grilled peppers stuffed with creamy, regional cheese are irresistible. But then so too the octopus salad. Mains are a triumph of simplicity, with dishes like skewered minced beef served with a bitey sauce and a soft, pillowy Lepinja bread. Over the course of a few visits that’s now become my staple order. Yet ignore Thursday seafood night at your peril. No wonder you’re lucky to find a table, it’s something quite special: you’ll do well finding a better brancin (sea bass) in the city. Certainly one at this price. And that, it must be said, is the final surprise. A three course meal for two will rarely step north of 150, making it one of the best deals about. Not a bad exchange for honest contentment. (AW) Ba Adriatico

o

Al. Jana Pawła II 50/52, ba-adriatico.pl

Home Comforts Food and mood come together

ne pet peeve of mine when it comes to Warsaw restaurants are the actual owners of these places. Not all owners, but the ones who sit at the bar staring at their laptop. No matter how busy it gets, there they are, refusing to budge and engrossed in bar charts and excel sheets. You feel like you’ve stepped into a staff training facility. What I want is to see the owner greeting guests, exchanging banter or simply sharing a nod and a smile. That somehow makes eating out feel more of a genuine experience. Rusiko is that place.

The great location helps, with its nice evening sun and people watching, but it’s the interiors that make it: rugs on the wall, classic tables and contemporary lights. You feel right at home, which I guess is what the owners, Olga and David, had in mind from the start. Find them hopping between tables, eating, chatting and going the extra yard. However, what sold me entering their ‘home’ was the kitchen – set out in full view of the guests, you see the chefs laughing and smiling while they cook. To me that’s Georgia: full of warmth and hospitality, not much to mention a big love for food.

A great start when ordering are the fried eggplant rolls stuffed with spiced walnut paste topped with pomegranate seeds (badrijani) and the wonderful cheese-filled bread called khachapuri.

And while pierogi are plentiful in Poland and probably off your radar, you can’t miss the Khinkali, a soup dumpling in the shape of a purse filled with meat. Insider tip: pull the dumpling up off the plate by the little handle on top and bite into the side to suck the juice out before cutting into it. Also, for summer, make sure to try the tarragon lemonade, a bright green mix that looks like mouthwash but turns out to be amazingly refreshing. (KD) Rusiko

Aleje Ujazdowskie 22, tel. 22 629 0628 www.warsawinsider.pl

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REVIEWS

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Warsaw Insider | JUNE 2015

Small Plates, Big Ideas An offer of blazing bravery stuns in Tapage

Y

ou’ll rarely find me in a better mood. The clouds have cleared and the streets are glistening from a brief burst of rain. A rainbow would be nice, I think. And presto, before I know it, there it is, a perfect multicolored arch shimmering in the sky. It’s not a real rainbow, that’d be too good, but it’s the next best thing: the controversial installation on Pl. Zbawiciela. It’s quite a sight, and one best appreciated with a donut vodka enjoyed under some shaded colonnades.

Hang on a minute, a donut vodka? “Our barman was mucking around one day,” explains my waiter, “and decided to see what would happen if he left a donut inside some vodka.” The result is deep and delicious, with the strange concoction given an added twist by a dose of honey and some mystery berries.

Newly launched, it’s best to think of Tapage as a testing ground for unconventional ideas. Opened by the same team behind Kaskrut, it’s split into three distinct areas: a terrace, a snug whitetiled bar, and an upstairs nook up some spiral stairs. “I wanted Kaskrut to be more about food than drink,” says Dhafer, the owner, “and Tapage to be the other way around.” Looking bashful, he admits that hasn’t really happened. That’s no surprise. The drinks are indeed fantastic, but anyone thinking the food is an afterthought has another thing coming.

The menu (scheduled to change every couple of weeks) is brief – four ‘small plates’ and four mains – so after a cursory

discussion we order the lot. Arriving on disposable, sugar cane plates, they’re presented like proud little artworks. Tomato tempura crowned with a hit of wasabi sounds wrong, but it works wonderfully. There’s roast beef served with splodges of mustard seed, and more tempura action with a battered lemon and deepfried asparagus. The gooey lemon gravy that accompanies it is extraordinary. The spring rolls are more pedestrian but their peanut butter sauce is something else .

Mains don’t look that much bigger than the ‘small plates’, but the portioning proves expert. There’s a beautiful duck, and a nice splat of candied rhubarb puree to go with it. The strawberries, meanwhile, are that sweet they go ‘pop’ in the mouth. Rotating plates with the photographer, I find ox cheek up next. On tasting this braised piece of perfection I can’t believe my luck that he’s actually left me some. “Neither can I,” he replies glumly. But the best is yet to come: salmon served on a slick of sriracha and a bed of diced pineapple. The overlapping tastes form a perfect combination. I’m stunned. Desserts see chef Piotr Ceranowicz get more playful still: squishy chocolate pudding with blobs of mango, a marshmallowy-soft beza, and miso ice cream with crunchy popcorn. It’s wave after wave of unbridled pleasure.

Please, I want to ask, does it really have to stop? (AW) Tapage pl. Zbawiciela 5 www.warsawinsider.pl

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REVIEWS Totally Thai-Riffic

Beautiful happenings on theater square‌

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Warsaw Insider | JUNE 2015

t

he clouds are out when I visit Thai Thai, with some fat splots of rain threatening a downpour any second now.

I don’t like entering restaurants in this kind of weather, there’s a superstitious side to me that interprets such as a menacing omen for what lies ahead. Compounding my sense of doom is the educated guess (the name gives nothing away, does it?) that I’m about to go Thai, a cuisine that more often than not has left Warsaw flummoxed. It’s not that the capital can’t get the chefs, more that it can’t get the ingredients to replicate the nuances of this extraordinary cuisine. But that’s the first lesson of Thai Thai: don’t apply the deficiencies of others to this outstanding venture.

As usual, I’ve arrived late, which means the two lads I’m meeting have already assumed the controls. Enquiring as to what they’ve ordered, the reply is ‘everything’. They’re not kidding.

I’ve barely taken my jacket off before the starters begin landing.

There’s about eight in all, and we make short work of the challenge in front. In between clattering chopsticks and competing elbows are uttered observations like ‘the best I’ve had ever’.

Among the highlights are dainty prawn dumplings and a grilled beef salad accessorized with a perky chili sauce. It’s the real deal, full of citrusy twists, lively flavors and vibrant colors.

Equally pleasurable: sundried pork neck with a manly crunch and nose-clearing sauce. Nothing though can outshine the tuna

tartar, a dish zinging with fresh hits of coriander, mint, lime juice and chili – so good I actually call over the manager and tell him what I think. It’s no surprise to learn that he’s heard it all before.

Soups are up next, and for me that’s Tom Yang Kung, a deeply nourishing fish broth that awakens the senses with a sharp, spicy jolt. Such are its restorative powers I make a mental note to return with a hangover – the kind when a gunshot to the head seems the only way out. Mains see more splurging: strips of beef fillet in a sticky black pepper sauce, lamb skewers on a subtle green curry, a beautifully balanced Pad Thai Kung, and a glorious red curry duck served with pineapple, lychee and eggplant.

It’s food to savor: clean but complex and fragrantly aromatic.

Frankly, it’s exquisite.

With plates cleared comes the realization that dessert is physically impossible – we have gorged beyond all recorded human limits. Any regrets, however, are not forthcoming. A world removed from the glow-in-the-dark gloop found in so many of its competitors, Thai Thai has been a sensation. By giving chef Surachart Urajaroen center stage, this restaurant ensures that a dazzlingly luxurious interior isn’t failed by a bog standard kitchen.

And by doing so, they’ve just won a customer for life. (AW) Thai Thai

Pl. Teatralny 3, tel. 601 818 283, thaithai.pl www.warsawinsider.pl

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Rock’n’Roll Kitchen

What a year. Launched last June, the opening of L’enfant Terrible hit Warsaw’s foodies like a runaway truck. Accolades and awards have come thick and fast, but beyond the baubles and certificates has been the knowledge that Warsaw has gained a venue of genuine substance. “Of course we believed in ourselves,” says chef Michał Bryś, “but even so the response has been overwhelming.

You know, looking back it all feels like a long, weird, exhausting rock’n’roll tour – like one of those epic Stones tours!”

This is not a hollow analogy. “Each day,” says Bryś, “we’re performing – come six o’clock when the crew gets in the kitchen it’s like a band arriving on stage. We’re playing together, from the dishwasher up: we’re a team, a band, and we don’t perform solo.”

It’s fitting, therefore, that perhaps their most celebrated dish to date has rock inspirations: Pigs & Roses.

“The name alone,” says Bryś, “is a good example of my philosophy. I want something a bit rock-ish and maverick, I want there to be no barriers. I want to see freedom in cooking, creativity and independence from trends.” That this star dish is composed of roses, pork belly and, wait for it, a donut, is proof of the chef ’s commitment to experimentation. And, as part of their first anniversary celebrations, you can now see for yourself. Book now for a menu that reprises the classic hits that made Enfant huge…

L’enfant Terrible

ul. Sandomierska 13 (enter from Rejtana), eterrible.pl

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Warsaw Insider | JUNE 2015

Partner News

The latest marketplace news from the Warsaw Insider’s friends and advertisers…

Chill Grill

New executive chef Andrzej Lejman has started his reign at the Hilton with a bang, thanks in part to the opening of the Piazza Grill. Set under gleaming white sails, this soothing al fresco venture could yet prove to be this season’s wonder.

Aside from all the grilled standards, June will see some Portuguese specials as well as the introduction of craft beer nights and cocktail deals.

Piazza Lounge & Grill ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton Warsaw Hotel)

Summer Must

Lemon Burst

One To Watch

When the heat is on there’s little that beats a refreshing gazpacho or a fishy Spanish nibble taken on a sun-kissed terrace.

That simple pleasure is all yours at Tapas Bar, winner of this year’s Insider’s Casual Dining award. Find them on Facebook for their latest news and promotions.

What’s that saying? Something like, ‘when life hands you lemons, make limoncello’.

And that’s just what the folk at Focaccia have done. As if you needed an extra reason to visit anyway, swing round on Thursday when they’ll be serving their own homemade version of this summer stunner.

Stop press: work on Stixx Bar & Grill will begin in July as part of the development around the Warsaw Spire. We’re expecting big things – literally. Spanning 1,500 sq/m, we’re told that features of Stixx will include an 8-meter long fireplace, lounge, concept delicatessen and a 400 sq/m terrace.

Tapas Bar ul. Grzybowska 63

Focaccia ul. Senatorska 13/15

Stixx Bar & Grill Pl. Europejski www.warsawinsider.pl

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Pa N rtn ew er s

The Bollywood Beat

More than just food and high times, music assumes a starring role in Bollywood Lounge…

E

ntering Bollywood causes the senses to sit up straight, take a sniff and break a smile. Some tables are dotted with simmering pots of steaming curries, others with tall, elaborate shisha pipes, their delicious scent wisping around in waves. Combined, it is the aroma of pure pungent pleasure. No wonder the ground floor hums with activity throughout the day. But Bollywood is as much about night as it is about day. This realization is made by descending into a basement designed in a style that embraces the exoticism of Asia.

Sprinkled with dimmed, curtained alcoves, it’s a place where cocktail consumption is rife and abundant – consider it fuel for the Bollywood fire. And what energy – come Friday and Saturday find the dance

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floor threatening to sink into the ground as Warsaw’s good lookers wiggle the weekend away. It is wrong though to make the presumption that the ‘club’ area of Bollywood limits itself to dance hits. Sign off the weekend in style each Sunday at 8 p.m. by swinging in for raucous karaoke nights led by cult ex-pat musician Brian Alan. Rollicking good fun, it’s the liveliest Sunday Warsaw has on offer, a direct consequence of six złoty beers and shots. For something more serious, the Tuesday concerts have become unmissable events, hosting in the past such luminaries as Olga Barej, Jagoda Kret and Magdalena Fidecka…

Bollywood Lounge ul. Nowy Świat 58, bollywoodlounge.pl

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The Heart Of The Kitchen

Never busier, it’s been all go at Kitchen since their welcome return to food from the soul…

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t’s not hard to spot owner Tomek Woźniak: he’s the young guy with a grin so big you’d think he’s swallowed Warsaw. And in a way, he has. After a brief dalliance with fine dining, a few months ago Kitchen made a dramatic volte-face by returning to their comfort food roots. An identity crisis? A panic measure? If so, no-one told Tomek. The results have been resounding, with customers voting with their feet and flocking back in numbers. “All of a sudden,” says Tomek, “we can feel the place again.”

The good mood is palpable, with Kitchen whirring with life and racket from breakfast onwards – basically, like a kitchen should. Unsurprisingly, the new menu has played a key role in this. “Comfort food,” says Tomek, “is about meeting, eating and having fun – fine dining is great, but let’s be real, how often do you want to do it? People want food they understand, they don’t want long explanations or to hear that this egg came from a chicken called Marco.”

Going hand in hand with best-selling items like meatballs, wings, lamb sausages and Pad Thai, are a

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spread of daily offers that have added to the buzz: Steak Tuesday’s (rib-eye for zł. 39) have been a hit.

But we’re not telling you anything new – the chefs’ capabilities have always been apparent.

The real triumph lies in Kitchen’s evolution into an all-hours hangout; it’s gone beyond being a place where visits are based around meal times. “We hold something called ‘little Friday’ each Wednesday night,” says Tomek, “the music gets a little louder, and we slash 50% off Prosecco and Aperol Spritz.

Once the real weekend begins we have DJs playing lounge music, live acts, and a bit of a pre-party vibe.” Of course, the weather has helped, with visitors enjoying a larger terrace with higher tables. “For the first time,” says Tomek, “the outside feels like an extension of the inside.” And what better time to consider that than on a groggy Sunday, with an allday full English breakfast sitting in front of you…

Kitchen ul. Widok 8, kitchenrestaurant.pl

Suiting The Occasion

Dealing with everyone from politicians down to chaps needing something for a one-off occasion, Van Thorn have become the gentleman’s tailor of choice…

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orget what you’ve been told, the customer isn’t always right. That much becomes apparent talking to Maciej Puciata of Van Thorn.

“I say to every customer, it’s not just you who needs to like the suit, but also me – a suit has to be good enough for the Van Thorn label before it leaves the shop.” It’s just one example of Maciej’s commitment to creating your perfect suit. “Ok isn’t good enough – if a customer says that a fabric is ok, then I know we need to find another one. It needs to be more than just ok, you can get ok in a high street shop.”

The whole tailoring process is an intensely personal experience. “I need to know the customer, their character and why they need the suit, and they need to know me – it’s all about cooperation.” Step 1 involves choosing from 5 to 6,000 fabrics, from small Italian weavers all the way to the big boys. “If the customer is happy with the fabric,” says Maciej, “then 99% of the time then they’ll be happy with the suit.” With that issue decided, style comes next.

“We use visual computer aids to help our clients, and of course I’m here to advise and raise considerations: for instance, does their silhouette suit, what image do they want to portray, etc.”

Measurements are taken not just the old fashioned way (“using my tape and my eyes!”), but also with a 3D body scanner – the only one in Poland utilized for such means. “That guarantees I see all the angles of the back, shoulders, belly and suchlike,” says Maciej. Suits are then ready for delivery within four weeks with any adjustments conducted for free. “Prices begin at zł. 2,600 for made-to-measure, and zł. 4,500 for bespoke, but what you’re getting is genuine quality,” states Maciej. “There are exceptions but most ready-to-wear brands don’t have that, also getting the right fit isn’t just time consuming, it’s pure luck.”

The same sentiments can be applied to Van Thorn’s shirts. With a two week turnaround between measuring and completion (or a three day express service), the style of their custom-made shirts is only limited by the client’s imagination: “in terms of design,” promises Maciej, “anything is possible.” Again, the only rigid rule is the importance attached to customer satisfaction. “At Van Thorn we want to advise you,” says Maciej, “we want you to look good – after all, the best marketing tool is a job well done.”

Van Thorn ul. Sienna 39, vanthorn.pl

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traditional Polish food is an explosion of calories. The trick is to keep these old, unique flavors but update their preparation.

Have you tried to do anything different at the Belwederska location?

The primary concern at our restaurants is the food. What we’ve achieved at our first restaurant comes down to years of experience so there won’t be a kitchen revolution – our menu is tried and tested and the guests love it.

Instead, the revolution at Belwederska is a little more subtle. For instance, it’s more business and event friendly in terms of private rooms: there’s even one inside a turret complete with a separate entrance.

A Local Classic

Katarzyna Wasilewska of the legendary Dom Polski talks about the restaurant’s recent expansion to pastures new.

How has Dom Polski developed over the years?

We’re in a constant state of evolution. Design-wise, that means adding and collecting more paintings and assorted antiques to create a consistent and harmonious pre-war climate. As for the food, we originally started with just a few dishes, nowadays that repertoire has grown to such an extent we offer a rapidly changing menu adjusted according to what nature offers.

What’s kept the restaurant so successful?

Firstly, hard work. Then there’s the food; the dishes we serve

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attempt to reprise old recipes that have been lost to history. To stay successful we’re always looking at new ways to modernize these classic dishes, while also staying true to concepts of seasonality.

How important is tradition…

We can’t forget about our cultural or culinary heritage. You could almost say there’s an educational value as well, especially where the younger generation is concerned.

They’ve already forgotten the joy of flavors like, for example, traditional huntsman’s stew and pickled red borscht. Tradition is our driving force, though of course we have had to tinker with it – after all,

Everything about the new Belwederska venue – the location, the building – fits the original Dom Polski pofile.

How important was this?

The pre-war villa on Belwederska sums up the nature of the restaurant perfectly. When looking for a new space we weren’t just looking for a central location, but also a building that reflected our style. I can honestly say that this address exceeded our wildest expectations – I think our guests would agree.

As a restaurateur, what excites you most about summer?

Our focus falls on light, fat-free seasonal produce and that’s so abundant in summer that our menu changes like a kaleidoscope – one moment there’s baby asparagus, the next young cabbage. And of course, there’s so many fruits to play with to create the perfect dessert: rhubarb tart, rum and strawberry cake, baked apricot muffins, etc.

For those newcomers unfamiliar with your brand, what can they expect?

That’s straight forward – first and foremost we’re a proven kitchen with excellent food. That’s the bottom line.

Dom Polski ul. Francuska 11 & ul. Belwederska 18A, restauracjadompolski.pl

Marimba Burger (Guatemala City, Guatemala) Dressed with house-made bean spread, layered with melted Jack and cheddar cheeses, crunchy tortilla straws, crisp lettuce and vine-ripened tomato, served with salsa and seasoned fries.

Banh Mi Burger (Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam) Coated in our tangy house-made Vietnamese glaze, topped with sliced cucumbers and pickled vegetables, accompanied by a garnish of cilantro and green onions, served with seasoned fries.

Bosphorus Burger (Istanbul, Turkey) Piled high with slowsimmered eggplant salad enriched by fresh herbs and vegetables and finished with a dollop of haydari yogurt sauce, crisp lettuce and vine-ripened tomato, served with seasoned fries.

Tandoori Spiced Chicken Burger (Mumbai, India) Handpressed ½ lb chicken tikka patty seasoned with authentic Indian spices and fresh herbs, topped with melted Jack cheese, mint mayo, crisp lettuce and vine-ripened tomato, served with sliced cucumber and seasoned fries.

World Burger Tour!

Local Legendary™ Burgers from around the globe make their debut on Hard Rock Cafe’s Warsaw menu…

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or the first time ever, Hard Rock Cafe Warsaw gives guests a backstage pass to sample its Local Legendary™ Burger offerings, showcasing the flavor and ingredients at Hard Rock locations across the globe as part of its new World Burger Tour menu. These unique burger “acts” from all over the world will take center stage at Hard Rock Cafe Warsaw through till June 30, 2015.

Hard Rock gives chefs at their cafes the freedom to create a unique Legendary Burger that captures the local flavors of their city and is only available at that cafe location… until now! More than 150 local burgers were evaluated by Hard Rock’s

culinary team, with fan favorites selected to star on a limited-time World Burger Tour menu. These five burgers will be featured at Hard Rock Cafe Warsaw in addition to its own unique Local Legendary Duck Burger. From the Java Lava Legendary Burger in Seattle to the Schnitzel Legendary Burger in Germany, Hard Rock’s Local Legendary Burgers are packing their bags (or buns) and heading out to Hard Rock Cafes with a special stop at Hard Rock Cafe Warsaw!

Hard Rock Cafe ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, hardrockcafe.pl www.warsawinsider.pl

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restaurants KEY

NEW & NOTEWORTHY

$ zł. 30 (per main) $$ zł. 30-55 $$$ over zł. 55 New listings are in RED Best of Warsaw Award Winner

BAZAR KOCHA (ul. Mokotowska 33, bazarkocha.pl) Here’s a place that taps into Warsaw’s mania for natural produce by blurring the lines between delicatessen and restaurant. Replete with a fashionably distressed, post-industrial look, and a menu that brims with creative dishes, the provenance of the ingredients comes first and foremost. It’s a bit of a scene, with lots of activity from morning till late, and the kind of cosmopolitan vibe that makes dawdling a must.

african american asian balkan & russian british burgers cheap eats cooking schools cuban french german greek & turkish indian international italian japanese & sushi jewish latin & mexican middle eastern polish steak houses thai whole foods

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Insider writers do not accept any form of payment in return for favorable reviews.

african DEMO (ul. Żelazna 51/53) Positioned in a half-derelict factory complex, Warsaw’s Bio Bazar is Warsaw’s ‘go to’ spot for fruit and veg fresh from the farm. It makes sense, therefore, to open a restaurant on-site. Looking ad hoc and temporary, Demo is the work of media darling Marcin Jabłoński, and has won rave reviews for a refreshingly simple menu that makes use of the produce outside. Note: open Weds and Sat only.

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Café Baobab (H4) ul. Francuska 31, tel. 22 617 4057, open 10:00-23:00, www.cafebaobab.pl The work of former basketball player Aziz Seck, Baobab brings the tastes of Senegal to Saska Kępa. The mafe yap – beef stewed in peanut sauce – is as interesting as it sounds, and best enjoyed during their bi-monthly Saturday night concerts. $

listings / restaurants american Brooklyn Restaurant & Bar (C4) Al. Jana Pawła II 18 (Rondo ONZ), tel. 22 114 3434, open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-23:00 Gone are the fancy pants culinary creations once found in the basement, ousted in favor of a menu of pimped-up soul and street food, salads and steaks. This means fresh tacos – one with hangar steak and the other with battered tilapia – not to mention Mito’s Beef Ribs and 100% beef dogs. The ground floor burger bar is more prosaic, offering a standard line-up of burgers and wings: many swear they’re the best to be found. $$ Champions Sports Bar (D5) Marriott Hotel, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 5119, open 12:00-24:00, www. champions.pl While the concept and style look dated, there’s no faulting the attention to detail – wherever you look (aside from under the table), there’s a TV. The heavy décor brings to mind the trans-Atlantic

sports bars of the 90s, with glinting trophies, whirring machines, clacking pool tables and a cacophony of commentaries. Hell, there’s even a boxing ring. But you can’t fault their consistency: the food is always on-point, the staff are pro, while the generous floor plan makes it suitable for unwieldy groups of large and loud lads. $$ Hard Rock Cafe (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, open daily 9:00-24:00, www.hardrockcafe. pl Instantly recognizable by the giant neon guitar outside, Hard Rock has a pierced staff of skater boys and rock girls and a menu that is, if nothing else, completely reliable. Peruse rock’n’roll swag that includes Joplin’s blouse, Prince’s guitar and Shakira’s pants. $$ Someplace Else (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6710, open Mon-Thu 12:00-01:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 12:00-24:00, www. someplace-else.pl Favoring a stark concrete look, SPE were once a legend of 90s/00s

Warsaw. Things have tamed down since that ex-pat heyday, but this remains a noteworthy choice for live MOR rock and zippy Tex Mex food. $$

asian Asia Tasty (C3) pl. Żelaznej Bramy 1, tel. 22 654 6120, open 9:00-21:00 One of the great secrets of culinary Warsaw – for those In The Know this is the place for cheap, cheerful Asian food.

Not that it looks like much, this is as basic as interiors get; leave the hot date outside while you pick-up a takeout. $ Canton (B2) ul. Smocza 1, tel. 22 838 3823, open daily 12:00-22:00, www.canton.warszawa.pl Here’s what Chinese restaurants used to look like in the days of Bruce Lee: filled with dragons and lanterns, this place is an outright assault on your sensory system. Wokking away for over a decade, it’s actually not a bad

BORDO HAS BEEN PRESENT IN THE HEART OF WARSAW FOR 15 YEARS! Breakfast: Mon-Sat 9 a.m. till noon (only in the Chmielna branch) • Aperitif + cold and hot Mediterranean finger foods every day from 5 p.m. • Italian wines, cocktails, lemonades • Focaccia, bruschetta, sandwiches • Pizza from a wood-fired overn • Pasta, al forno dishes • Big garden right in the city center

ul.Galczynskiego 9, tel. 22 622 0068 nowyswiat@bordo.com.pl fb bordo Gałczyńskiego

bordo.com.pl

ul.Chmielna 34, tel. 22 826 0171 info@bordo.com.pl fb bordo chmielna www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / restaurants place if you want an MSG booster. The Gong Bao chicken gets approval. $$

Cesarski Pałac (D2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 9707, open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 12:3023:00; Sun 12:30-22:00, www.cesarskipalac.com A rouge tinted Chinese restaurant whose design even incorporates a footbridge.

Widely acclaimed, this 18-year-old restaurant combines Sichuan and Cantonese cuisine to serve a variety of dishes in an elegant backdrop. The Dim Sum are something else. $$ Papaya (E4) ul. Foksal 16, tel. 22 826 1199, open 12:00-24:00, www.papaya.waw.pl A place of precise lines and slick finishes, Papaya has a varied menu that uses influences from all over Asia, though particularly Thailand. But the star attraction is Preecha Wongsomboon, a Thai chef who fuses cookery with cabaret from behind a teppanyaki grill – his skills draw gasps. But between the honking horns and nifty knife work it becomes clear this is no novelty show: the food is top notch. $$ Patera (C4) ul. Świętokrzyska 36, tel. 535 333 123, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00; Sun

11:00-23:00, www.patera.com.pl The center pin is a semi-circular bar, above which lamps hang from a ceiling made out of old Coca-Cola crates. There’s palm fronds, mismatching seats, cheerful colors, exposed pipes and industrial chains. Sacks of Haruka rice adorn one end, and on the other there’s floor-to-ceiling windows. It feels right, as does the food – a confident combination of sushi and Thai. We ordered fried beef, and were dealt a generous portion full of pleasing, punchy tastes, sticky rice and a deep, aromatic sauce. Just as good is the green tea ice cream, both cleansing and delicious. $$

balkan & russian Banja Luka (E8) ul. Szkolna 2/4, tel. 22 828 1060, open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.banjaluka.pl Lots of clunky timber and imported ceramics set the scene at this eatery, a Balkan stalwart that’s known for its economical pricing structure and bulky portions. Grilled meats are prominent and the food largely reliable. $$ Restauracja Gruzja (D4) ul. Chmielna 5, tel. 729 460 761, open Mon-Sun 12:00-23:00, smakigruzji.pl So good that our Georgian connection claims it to be every bit as good as back home.

The khachapuri wins big points, but so too the badrijani – eggplant slices rolled and filled with a mix of walnuts and Georgian

spices. And then there’s the chinkali, every Georgian’s favorite dough purse of broth and meaty goodness. $ U Madziara (B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 620 1423, open Mon 11:30-20:00; Tue & Wed 11:30-21:00; Thu & Fri 11:30-22:00; Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, www.umadziara.pl U Madziara looks like it took two days to decorate. No-one goes here to marvel at the interiors though, they go in the knowledge that they’ll find great food at prices all bank cards can support. Chef Gabor’s signature goulash is one of life’s simple pleasures. $ Yugo (B4) ul. Sienna 83 (enter from Żelazna), tel.

694 109 379, open 12:00-20:00 You feel alive just being here: big on Colgate white colors, vintage tourist agency posters and bright stickers, Yugo is just about the cheeriest eatery you’ll come across on a dour Warsaw day. Presenting the food of the former Yugoslavia, this Balkan bolt hole specializes in meaty dishes served in traditional bread. $

british Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640, open Mon-Fri 11:00-last guest; Sat-Sun 10:00-last guest, www.legendsbar.pl It’s a British pub first and foremost, but don’t forego the

ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 97 07 www.cesarski-palac.com.pl Cesarski Palace has thrived in Warsaw for 18 years – from the outset we were the first to offer authentic Chinese dishes, including our signature Peking Duck which comes baked in a custom-made oven and served with pancakes, cucumbers, por and a special sauce.

Expect personalized service and special attention from the chef inside a restaurant sensitive to Feng Shui requirements. There’s nothing comparable to our perfect tastes!

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listings / restaurants kitchen either. The all-day breakfast is a great way to stoke up your drinking powers, while other dishes of note inc. pies, sausages and mash and, of course, fish and chips. $$

roast beef will make your knees tremble. But with this weather, most head to the shaded pavement terrace. Do so as well, and with a craft beer for company. $

burgers

To Tu Dumpling Bar ul. Niekłańska 33, open 11:00-20:00, www.chinskapierogarnia.pl A shabby looking shack cabin, To Tu offer what are seriously considered some of the best – if not the best – dim sum in town. Magic-ked up by a Manchurian exile, the experience isn’t unlike being in a sweaty back street haunt in Asia.

And that’s a good thing! $

Barn Burger (D4) ul. Złota 9. tel. 512 157 567, open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat 13:00-22:00; 13:0021:00, www.barnburger.pl Retaining a loyal crowd ever since their 2012 entry on the burger circuit, Barn Burger offer a loud and lively atmosphere and much celebrated burgers with names such as Heart Attack and Muppet. The list by the door notes the results of their frequent eating competitions. $ Beef’N’Roll (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel. 531 707 070, beefnroll.pl If the wheels have fallen off the burger craze then no-one told Beef’N’Roll.

Originating as a food truck, their success has been such that a fixed venue was required.

Everything about the food and drink suggests quality is the main consideration.

Ziggi Point (B4) ul. Pańska 59, tel. 696 145 735, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-20:00 Diners are summoned to the counter to collect their order via a buzzer, before settling down to enjoy what has emerged as a real candidate for Warsaw’s best burger. The fiery Desperados is as perfect as a burger gets, and best twinned with a Curiosity Cola from the Fentimans brand. Steaks and wings also available inside a cool diner setup. $

cheap eats Hummus Bar (B4) ul. Żelazna 64, tel. 723 058 223, open 11:00-19:00, www.hummsubar.pl Much like the lime green interior, the concept is simple and straightforward: hummus, falafel and fresh pitta breads served to a busy lunchtime crowd. There’s nothing more to say other than it’s utterly delicious. $ Meat Love (D5) ul. Hoża 62, tel. 500 149 210, open Mon-Thu 10:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-last guest; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.meatlove.pl Not ones to stagnate, Meat Love have expanded in size, meaning there’s now plenty of room to sample their artisan sandwiches – the

Original Indian Cuisine

cooking schools Cook Up Studio ul. Racławicka 99 (Fort Mokotów), tel. 22 212 89 76, www.cookup.pl Workshops in a gorgeous cooking studio located in a redbrick fortress. Past themes have included Swedish cooking (led by the Swedish Embassy chef), knife skills and soup, with lessons culminating in eating all that hard work.

Joseph’s Culinary Studio ul. Duchnicka 3, tel. 663 040 800, www. jospehseeletso.pl A familiar face from the TV, Botswanan born chef Joseph Seeletso marks a new chapter of his career with the launch of his own culinary academy. Tailor-made courses for individuals and groups are held in a custom-designed kitchen, and include cookery classes, wine tasting, dinner and the chance to learn a stack of secrets from the man himself.

Scheller Academy ul. Międzynarodowa 68, tel. 22 626 80 92, open Mon-Fri 9:00-17:00 (Office) www. schelleracademy.pl Instantly recognizable by his beret and whiskers, Swiss-born Kurt Scheller invites guests to his Saska Kępa kitchen for lessons aimed at all skill levels.

cuban El Caribe ul. Mickiewicza 9, tel. 22 400 0994. Open Mon-Thu 12:30-24:00; Fri-Sat 12:30-1:00; Sun 12:30-22:30 Start with a round of daiquiris before ordering frijoles negroes (black beans). But everyone agrees, it’s the flan that gets you doing the cha cha. With the cooking left to a Cuban exile, this perky spot is worth the trip north to Żoliborz. $$

club

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listings / restaurants french ArtBistro Stalowa ul. Stalowa 52, tel. 22 618 2732, www. stalowa52.pl, open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:30-22:00 Part of an ‘art hotel’, the distant Stalowa features a narrow dining chamber with vaulted walls, fresh flowers and white formica fittings. It looks good, but on a brighter day the courtyard, strewn with deckchairs and crates, is the place to be. The food is erratic – our vol au vent starter was dry and devoid of taste, while the chocolate ‘cream’ dessert was a runny, ugly looking disappointment. But there is potential: the main was a thing of excellence – duck with a carefully crisped skin, a perfect hint of fat, expertly browned potatoes and a wellexecuted orange and caramel sauce. $$

www.sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com The interior of Didier Gomez whispers intimacy, yet it also embraces notions of space and light. The casual elegance that emanates from the design is accented by warm colors, low banquettes and glinting mirrors. Acting as a ballast to it all is an open kitchen, in which you’ll find Executive Chef Maciej Majewski honing his art. His is a menu that fits seamlessly with the surrounds: a fresh, modern look at French cuisine, but one that values clarity and simplicity. Always leave room for dessert, especially the ‘pear trio’ – delicate and refreshing and with the right hint of sweet.

Le Bistro Rozbrat (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44, tel. 22 881 7808, open 12:00-24:00. The signs suggest that Powiśle is set to mature even further this year, making the transition from hipster haunt to restaurant breeding ground – and here is Exhibit A. Owned by Frenchman Alain Budzyk, the interiors are contemporary casual, with talking points saved for the food. The concise menu has token nods to Spanish cuisine, as well as a steak bavette that’s being raved about on the blogs. $$

Petit Apetit (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 27, tel. 22 826 44 61, open 8:00-23:00, petitappetit.com.pl A bit of French you say?

Step in. There’s an atmosphere here that melts regulars and tourists into one. An easy coexistence that reveals a lot about the very soul of the place: café, hangout, bistro. Small choice but good results. $$

Le Victoria Brasserie Moderne (D3) ul. Królewska 11 (Sofitel Warsaw Victoria), tel. 22 657 8332, open Mon-Sat12:00-24:00,

Adler (E5) ul. Mokotowska 69, tel. 22 628 73 84, open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat-Sun

german

12:00-24:00, www.adlerrestauracja.pl Set in a rustic rotunda, this veteran favorite packs in reassuringly caloric portions of pork knuckles, schnitzel and dumplings – all of a sudden, you understand why Helmut Kohl looks so large. Foaming beers served by Bavarian country maids complete the authenticity. $

greek & turkish Santorini ul. Egipska 7, tel. 22 672 0525, open daily 12:00-23:00, www.kregliccy.pl/santorini/ Santorini looks scuffed and tired but there’s a bonhomie present that instantly engages.

The kitchen attaches no value to things like presentation, preferring instead to simply treat diners to piles of grilled and skewered food that consistently tastes right – and the milfei dessert is magic. $$ Sofra (C6) ul. Wilcza 71, tel. 731 847 731, open MonThu 10:00-23:00; Fri & Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-22:00 On the design front it’s almost a straight plagiary of Charlotte: white brickwork, blackboard and communal table.

So the surprise here is the food – Turkish.

And not just any Turkish, but brilliant Turkish!

It’s nothing fancy, but there’s a real honest quality to the moussaka and lamb and beef in tomato sauce. The desserts are a real spoiler as well. $

indian Bollywood Lounge (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, tel. 22 827 0283, open Sun-Thu 12:00-3:00; Fri 12:00-6:00; Sat 14:00-6:00, bollywoodlounge.pl Known for their raucous dusk-till-dawn parties, there is another less hedonistic roll filled by Bollywood: that of a restaurant. The menu is an uncomplicated, classic affair that’s an ideal primer for the party ahead. $$

Exotic Moroccan Tajines & Couscous Mandi Oven + Charcoal Grill Enjoy the unique taste from Morocco and the Arab World HeyooDubai Restaurant Al. Jana Pawla 45/54 Tel. 535 075 770 Open daily 11:00-23:00 www.facebook.com/heyoodubai; www.tagine.pl

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Bombaj Masala (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 606 688 777, open 11:00-23:00, www.bombajmasala.pl One of the best looking Indian restaurants in Warsaw, but the food rarely pokes above average. For a cuisine that prides itself on rich, intense tastes, Bombaj gets remembered for bland, oily dishes that only sometimes get finished. Yet business remains brisk, thanks in part to a combination of location and general culinary ignorance. $$

listings / restaurants

Buddha (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 23, tel. 22 826 3501, open Sun-Thu 11:0023:00; Fri&Sat 11:00-24:00, www.buddha. info.pl The days of the Raj are recreated in Buddha, a fine-looking curry house with intricate interiors and top-drawer curries. The murgh masala jhodphur is a favorite of ours though the real plus here is the consistency: it’s always a solid bet. $ Chmielarnia (B4) ul. Twarda 42 (basement level), tel. 725 010 271, open Mon-Thu 11:00-24:00; Fri 11:00-2:00; Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 11:0024:00, www.chmielarnia.waw.pl Not only does Chmielarnia house some of the world’s best beers (see Nightlife), but also – as the shrine by the door may suggest – a very good restaurant. Sure, you’re eating in a dark and loud beer cellar (to us that’s a bonus), but the Nepalese chef, Ram, knows what he’s doing. And aside from Indian and Nepalese staples, there’s a menu tailor-made for the beer swiggers. $ Curry House ul. Żeromskiego 81, tel. 508 870 774 & al. Ken 47, tel. 22 213 0689, open daily 11:00-22:00, curryhouse.com.pl A primitive design (port-a-loo toilet, barred windows) and far-flung location have not hindered Curry House one bit. It’s a legend, not least for their vindaloo – a macho dish that provokes spontaneous combustion. Be warned: no beer. $ Madras (B3) Al. Solidarnosci 129/131, tel. 536 335 333, open 11:00-22:00 Even before you enter, you smell Madras: a pungent aroma that wafts gloriously over gloomy Solidarnośći.

Looking humble, unassuming, and even a little seedy, this microscopic venue is as far removed from refined as it gets. For all that, those who love Indian food refuse to go anywhere else for their curry – full of intense flavors and bold spicing, the vindaloo is a near death experience: even your hair feels like it’s on fire. As the burning euphoria subsides, you’re left basking in that blissful glow all hotheads will know. Note: no alcohol license. $ Mandala (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 9/11, tel. 22 428 44 54, open Mon-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-

23:00; Sun 13:00-21:00, www.mandalaklub. com or www.indiaexpress.pl Remember the cheap curries you once scoffed as a student?

Well Mandala offers something similar.

Immense portions, low prices and an efficient delivery service ensure plenty of custom, but the food is, at best, nothing more than ordinary. On a bad day, you might feel a little queasy. $ Mr India Al. KEN 47, tel. 22 213 0689, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www. mrindia.pl Split on two levels the design is contemporary if a little characterless: leather banquettes that leave a sweaty bum print and wood paneling. No problem though, if it looks bland then the food isn’t. That means an incredible butter chicken that’s deep and immensely satisfying. Then there’s the vindaloo – could be hotter for some, but good enough for most. $$

that leave your ears blowing smoke rings. $$ Tandoor (D7) ul. Marszałkowska 21/25, tel. 22 825 2375, open 12:00-22:30, www.tandoor.com. pl After nearly 20 years at the helm, owner Charanjit Walia has sold up and moved on, leaving a spiritual hole in his life-defining work. His parting shot has been a re-haul which has seen not just the interior modernized, but the menu – start with the pea and basil soup before moving onto the chicken tamarind or the chicken sholay kebab.

Coated in absinth, it’s set aflame at the table.

Parivar al. Waszyngtona 75, tel. 22 393 4104, open 11:00-22:00, www.parivar.pl The squid sizzler has the taste and texture of that chewing gum you found stuck under the bus seat, whil e the vindaloo is cunningly disguised as a bowl of red water with some chicken floating about. “I get better curry on the oil rigs,” opined the Insider’s official balti boy.

For all of that, the biggest disappointment is Parivar’s apparent success. $ Rain by India Curry (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 438 9350, open Mon-Sun 12:00-23:00, www.rain.pl Fresh, contemporary interiors impart a chic, classy look, while the shaded courtyard garden is one of the best about town. The real credit for Rain’s resuscitation though belongs to the kitchen: our curry expert rates the starters as the best he’s had in any Indian restaurant.

And the mains continue the form with a magnificent lamb tikka masala. The tiffin lunch deals are outstanding as well. $$

Because Warsaw Just Got Hotter Classic Indian Cuisine With A Funky Twist ul. Zurawia 22, tel. 501 400 386, www.rain.pl

Rani Al. KEN 48/10, tel. 729 247 400, open 11:00-22:00, rani.com.pl Mere steps from Metro Natolin, this restaurant’s catchment area goes beyond just Ursynów. Owner Samir is a self-confessed foodie, and his vision includes a contemporary Indian menu that features pan-seared cod with turmeric, tomato salsa and mint chutney – wonderful.

Rani will also please the traditionalists, with everything from creamy kormas to vindaloo’s www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / restaurants Traditionalists will also approve: the ‘classic’ menu features a formidable butter chicken tikka masala. After a couple of years in the doldrums, Tandoor is back with a bang. $$

international Aioli Inspired by Mini (D6) pl. Konstytucji 5, open 9:00-24:00, aioliinspiredbymini.pl Fans of the original we might be, but this latest venture brings to mind one of those anonymously formulaic Times Square eateries where tourists convene for the ‘fake’ New York experience. There are moments when the scrum at the bar threatens to spill into blood sport, while the despondent staff only make matters worse. You’d think the Pilsner beer tanks would serve as a point of redemption, but here foul glasses make what should be Warsaw’s freshest beer into the capital’s worst. $$ Akademia (E9) ul. Różana 2, tel. 22 828 99 11, open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-18:00, www.restauracjaakademia.pl The most high profile launch of 2013, with whole sections of the street blocked off to keep the beautiful people from being molested by the public.

But while the prevailing attitude is snooty, chef Grzegorz Nowakowski has done an excellent job on an artfully simple menu that fits seamlessly with the white-on-white interiors. $$ A Nóż (D9) ul. Różana 30, tel. 608 386 388, open daily 9:00-23:00, www.anoz.pl ‘A Jack of all trades, master of none,’ you might think.

You’d be wrong. Burgers, pastas, Asianinspired salads, and pizzas are represented, and while some dishes require fine-tuning, the overall impression is positive. Paired with a cool, typically Warsaw interior (white, white, white), the owners have a real success story on their hands. $ A nuż Widelec (E3) ul. Dobra 14/16, tel. 507 367 520, open 12:00-22:00 So snug is A nuż widelec, the feeling is of being round at a friend’s house.

The food is nothing fancy, but fresh and made with love – and it feels even better while the owner potters about, chatting with his guests and watering the flowers in the knockout garden. Such is the atmosphere, you want to call it home. $$

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Artkitchen ul. Domaniewska 34A, open Mon-Fri 8:30-22:00, artkitchen.pl Buried deep in the office blocks of white collar Mokotów Artkitchen hope to attract more than just the lunch break crowd with a busy jazz program overseen by musician Grzegorz Piotrowski.

The modern international menu is composed

by Michał Bassa, a man who appears to like foie gras: find it in burgers, ice cream and other combinations. $$ Baltazar by Mondovino (D5) ul. Krucza 24/26, tel. 516 817 855, open 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, baltazar. warszawa.pl Filled with big red colors and battleship greys, there’s a nice feeling of improvisation to Baltazar, and an undercurrent of individuality emphasized by a 1950s wall painting that’s the venue’s statement piece and ballast. The cooking is the work of twins Kuba and Michał (“one person in two bodies” laughs the owner), and is a brilliant work of deconstructed simplicity: delicate rabbit and thyme ravioli, Fred Flintstone-style steaks, and pork belly served with a blob of foam and an arc of liquefied apple. And all hail the desserts, in particular, the silky crème caramel. $$ Bibenda (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 10, tel. 502 770 303, open Tue-Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, bibenda.pl If it’s informal dining you want, then Bibenda nails it: here the warm design incorporates a popular bar area filled with a young, chattery crowd. The seasonal menu makes use of market vegetables and farmyard produce, and is built on pillars of quality and simplicity. $$ Bierhalle al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), Nowy Świat 64, Marszałkowska 55/73, bierhalle.pl Beer and food: a match made in heaven.

Accompany your frothing stein of lager with traditional beery bites like sausages, schnitzel and pork knuckle. The menu is German / Polish slanted, but with a few international accents. $$

Boathouse ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 389a, tel. 22 616 3223, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00- 18:00, www.boathouse.pl The name gives it away, doesn’t it? Situated in what is

indeed a former boathouse, this venerable institution comes into its element each summer when Warsaw goes riverside to dine at this restaurant. Even out of season, the Mediterranean standards have stood the test of time and keep this venue busy. $$ Brasserie Warszawska (E5) ul. Górnośląska 24, tel. 22 628 9423, open Mon 12:00-22:00; Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-20:00, www.brasseriewarszawska.pl Looking for classic cuisine with no daft flights of fancy? Here you have it. At a time when everyone wants to be Ferran Adrià, Brasserie has both a menu and interior that you can understand: pan-fried foie gras; elegant beef Rossini; and sinful apple tarte tatin, all served inside posh interiors of zinc-plated mirrors and chessboard floors.

Their Michelin Bib Gourmand is a source of pride, but it’s the number of repeat clients that are the ultimate paean to the skills of chef Mateusz Wichrowski. $$$ Bubbles (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 512 540 913, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-18:00, bubbles. com.pl Occupying a small, square room, it’s intimate and relaxed: a place busy with blackboards and bottles, crates and clutter.

It radiates warmth and honesty. The food is exquisite, and includes big, meaty snails farmed in Mazury, and their signature dish: Swiss-style raclette. Presented on a wooden chopping board, this cheese dish is classic melty goodness, and served alongside a pile of potatoes, onions marinated with caramel and candied pumpkin. Considering the place doubles as a champagne bar the prices are remarkably moderate. $$ Bydło i Poidło (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2216, open Mon-Thu 12:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-21:00 Filled with rawhide and industrial undertones, this grown-up version of Bydło I Powidło (see Burgers) has its accent on more high end meats, and specifically steaks. The food, however, never hits the heights the steep prices would suggest. $$ Concept 13 (D4) ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7373, open MonSat 11:00-23:00; Sun 11:00-16:00 You’d expect a rooftop meal at Poland’s ultimate luxury department store to cost the earth, but that’s not the case. The zł. 50 lunch deal

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listings / restaurants allows Joe Public to enjoy the considerable skills of Dariusz Barański. That he manages to create different pieces of art each and every afternoon is a testament to his talent – fellow chefs and foodies privately talk of him as a Michelin star in the making. $$$ Der Elefant (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, tel. 22 890 0010, open 12:00-24:00, www.derelefant.com This leviathan restaurant unravels in a maze of wrought iron and monochrome tiles. The menu looks like it was devised by throwing darts at a cookbook (Mediterranean mezze, Tom Yum soup, burgers, pierogi, etc.), but if the focus is blurry then the quality isn’t. While some of the dishes are strictly middling, the Alaskan crab claws are excellent while the filet mignon (zł. 59) one of the best meat deals in town – and it’s even better when twinned with their own-made BBQ sauce. $$ Dom ul. Mierosławskiego 12, tel. 509 165 712, open Tue-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:0022:00 The simple name implies exactly what it is: a restaurant in a house. Set in a pre-war home complete with a lawn and garden, this little secret isn’t all that secret. When the Insider visited it was packed, prompting staff to make some adjustments and put together a table. We’re glad they did. Their menu changes frequently, and on our visit included homemade focaccia, beef risotto and gravlax with lime foam on top of a mini-pancake. You won’t want to leave. $$

Dwie Trzecie (D5) ul. Wilcza 50/52, tel. 605 589 588, open 12:00-24:00 Undeterred by the departure of chef Marcin Jabłonkski, the new guy in the kitchen – Grzegorz Nowakowski – has stamped his own mark with a seasonal menu that’s high on creativity: on our visit that meant guinea fowl accompanied with blobs of emulsion and smears of coffee puree.

Pleasingly, you get the idea that it’ll work in all seasons: raw enough for summer, yet intimate for winter. $$ Grill & Co (B9) ul. Żaryna 2B (Milllennium Park, Building C), tel. 22 646 0045, open Mon-Fri 7:30-23:00; Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www. grill-co.com Featuring plexiglass seats and clean, dark woods this place could easily be mistaken as one of the trend dens on Mazowiecka. A top (m)eatery, the filet mignon is perfect, and served with generous sides.

Prices, too, are pleasingly moderate. $$ InFormal Kitchen Pl. Małachowskiego 2 (enter from Traugutta), tel. 531 918 534, open 8:30-23:00; Fri 8:3024:00; Sat 9:00-24:00; Sun 9:00-23:00, informalkitchen.pl Headed by chef Dariusz Ratkowski, there’s plenty of fireworks over the course of a vibrant menu that sources

its produce from regional eco farms: meat from within a 26 kilometer radius of Warsaw, dairy produce from Mazury and fish from Pomerania. The rump of lamb is a class act, and bettered only by the pear and thyme tart for dessert. $$ Kaskrut (D6) ul. Poznańska 5, tel. 22 622 5438, Open Tue-Fri 17:00-last guest, Sat-Sun 13:00-last guest , www.facebook.com/dwichlab This haunt has a high communal seating plan and hip, buzzy foodie crowd: fit in by taking pics of the food. The exciting menu is a temporary work that changes every two weeks. The place is known for its trial-anderror attitude: combinations that don’t work get binned before making a public debut.

Those that make it through the qualifiers end up on the board. Servings are artistic, excellent and heavily influenced by French and North African cuisine, and new chef Piotr Ceranowicz already looks like he’s adapted well to Kaskrut’s high standards. $$

Kitchen (D4) ul. Widok 8, tel. 22 464 8284, open Mon-Thu 10:00-23:00; -Fri 10:00-1:00; Sat 12:001:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.burgerkitchen. pl It’s the wings that do it. Double fried they are and smothered in a plum BBQ sauce.

Eating them is sticky business, but the taste

Dear Guests!

We invite you to experience an exotic and mysterious adventure full of seasonal aromas and the unforgettable flavours of traditional Indian cuisine.

Curry, coriander, turmeric, cinnamon, ginger, cumin: these aromas mean it’s impossible to pass Buddha without stepping in.

Enjoy the atmosphere of Indian life, food, music and happiness.

Buddha Indian Restaurant ul. Nowy Swiat 23 +48 22 826 35 01 / 725 111 222

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listings / restaurants is sensational: just about the most joyous thing you can eat without the use of a fork.

After a six month flirtation with upscale dining, Kitchen have done a U-turn and returned to their roots – the results aren’t so much a kitchen revolution, rather a kitchen revelation. The ‘comfort food’ menu is a hit parade of meatballs, burgers, and other such creations made using the best natural, BEST WAWA 2014 local ingredients.

“Reinvention” Krucza 8 i Pól (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 10 (enter from Krucza), tel.

784 461 397, open 11:00-23:00 Looking sparse and fashionable one expects Eight and a Half to be on-trend food-wise. No such luck. Fundamentally the food is fine, with quality ingredients cooked with technical competence. Yet while there are hints of skill in the kitchen, there’s little evidence of creativity, passion or invention: imagine the sort of modern European food you’d find in a generic five star hotel. $$ La Maison (B3) ul. Chłodna 15, tel. 22 652 3660, open 8:00-23:00, lamaison.pl Everything here feels considered, from a wine list handpicked by importer Frank Telling, right down to the desserts, prepared by award-winning French pastry chef Michel Willaume – and my, what desserts. Backing the little details up is a menu of note: fish are a particular forte. All this in a casual background that features some whimsical Alice in Wonderland touches: patchwork armchairs, pinkish booths and hanging teapot-shaped lights. $$ La Rotisserie (C1) ul. Kościelna 12 (Le Régina Hotel), tel. 22 531 6070, open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, 12:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 7:00-11:00,12:0023:00, www.leregina.com Truly, one of the standout dining rooms of Poland. Many have commented on the Michelin quality of chef Paweł Oszczyk’s restaurant, and you may consider the lack of a star one of the puzzles of the modern world. The cooking is ‘classic with a twist’, and is built for superlatives: the slow-roasted rack of Welsh lamb was one of our highlights of 2013.

Find Oszczyk ably supported by Andrzej Strzelczyk, Poland’s top ranked sommelier, and wonderfully charismatic staff. $$$ L’enfant Terrible (D8) ul. Sandomierska 13 (enter from Rejtana), tel. 22 119 5705, open Mon 18:00-22:00;

Tue-Fri 12:30-15:30, 18:00-22:00; Sat 15:00-22:00, www.eterrible.pl What a few months for L’enfant Terrible: opened at the end of summer, they’d already done enough

by October to win Gazeta Wyborcza’s coveted Knajpy Roku award. And no-one deserves it more than Chef Michał Bryś, an innovative chef who leaves diners beaming. Pitting local produce against modern techniques the tasting menu (five courses: zł. 170) is sensational: the duck hearts will live long in this Insider’s memory. With all the hype you expect it to be a little up its arse, but it’s anything but: the design is smart but non-threatening, and the front of house staff are due plenty of credit. $$$ BEST WAWA 2014 “Newcomer”

Loft (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel.

668 016 964, open Mon-Fri 10:00-23:00; Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 11:00-22:00, cafeloft.pl Entering Loft isn’t far removed from stepping inside a pop art painting: lots of vibrant colors and weird lights inside strings of bubbles. A bi-level venture, the best spot to enjoy the menu is on the upstairs terrace, a sunny place befitting of options with names like Ding Dong Soup and Embarrassed Chicken. $$ Lokal 14 (D3) ul. Świętokrzyska 14, tel. 22 827 5480, open Mon-Sat 8:30-24:00; Sun 10:00-22:00 Having served his apprenticeship at Tamka 43, you’re right to expect good things from upcoming chef Filip Kosiń. He doesn’t disappoint with his artful menu of modern European “author’s cuisine”. Topping his skills off is a pleasing environment that’s big on light, wood and metalwork. Getting used to being more than a construction site, the opening of Lokal 14 is positive news for this stretch of Świętokrzyska. $$ Między Ustami (E5) ul. Mokotowska 33/35, tel. 530 323 325, open Sun-Mon 10:00-23:00; Tue-Thu 8:00-24:00; Fri 8:00-3:00; Sat 10:00-3:00 The design joins elements of classic Prague bordello against a London Soho bar, while the international menu features a decent steak nicely enhanced by a silky drizzle of demi-glace. You get the idea both the cooking and artisan cocktails need a little fine-tuning,

Seduces with the taste

• Modern take on Italian Cuisine • All dishes prepared on site from high-quality original products

• Mediterranean starters, seafood, pasta, pizza and Italian desserts

• The best location in Warsaw • Free car park for restaurant guests

www.focaccia.pl tel.: 22 829 69 69, Senatorska 13/15 Warsaw/Next to the Old Town Working hours: Mon – Sun: 11.00 –23.00

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listings / restaurants but fundamentally this newbie is looking in the right direction – certainly one to keep a watch for. $$ Momu.Gastrobar (D2) ul. Wierzbowa 11, tel. 506 100 001, open Sun-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00, www.momu.pl Tapas-style portions of experimental-looking food arrives in little glass jars (meat and fish skewers, Eton mess), or else on paper plates a la the jalapeno hot dog. Pay zł. 40 for a choice of six itsy pots served in a wire-framed basket.

A new concept for Warsaw, it’s been a case of so far so good for Momu. $

Nolita (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel.

22 292 0424, Nolita open Mon-Fri 12.00-15.00 (lunch), 18.00-22.30 (dinner); Sat 13.00-23.00, www.nolita.pl The deluxe dining scene is filling out in Warsaw, and there’s now a few restaurants that can present an equitable claim for the No. 1 spot. However, it’s Nolita that perch at the top, with a menu that sees largely classical recipes through a sharp, modern prism – chef Jacek Grochowina has created a place that’s coherent and understandable without sacrificing values of innovation. Looking chic and high end, the tastes and sensations in this restaurant are thrilling: diners are left speechless by the tuna tartar, while the aged beef fillet is an Insider mainstay. $$$

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BEST WAWA 2014 “Chef” 2014 “Fine Dining”

BEST WAWA

Nowa Kuźnia ul. Kostki Potockiego 24, tel. 794 126 019, open 12:00-last guest, www.nowakuznia.pl A mere step from Wilanów’s 18th century church, this onetime blacksmith passes muster for excellent steaks and fresh salads practically plucked from a garden. In season, the summer terrace is magical, and the place even touts a faux beach complete with diggers and slides for the kids. $$

Oliva (D4) ul. Ordynacka 10/12, tel. 501 497 410, open 12:00-23:00, www. restauracjaoliva.pl The spirit of the Mediterranean hangs over Oliva, a place where a milk color palette is matched against potted herbs and soft wooden touches. The menu has riffs of Italy, Spain and Greece, with particular pride attached to their gourmet olive oils. At times the cooking of Łukasz Żuchowski has been described as ‘inspirational’ and his talents come paired with a wine list selected by Marek Kondrat – an actor / wine merchant with an immense reputation. $$ Platter by Karol Okrasa (C4) InterContinental Hotel, ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8734 or 22 328 8730, open Mon-Fri 12:00-16:00, Sat-Sun 17:30-23:00,

www.platter.pl The hotel has roped in celebrity chef Karol Okrasa to head their revamped dining room. As a temple of nouveau Polish, the new layout isn’t a dramatic change from the previous occupant, but the food is faultless. In particular, the herb garden salad with prawns comes immaculately groomed.

An already excellent experience has been raised to talking point level. $$$ Po Prostu Zachęta (D3) pl. Małachowskiego 3, tel. 22 556 96 77, open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-20:00, www.poprostuzacheta. pl Sophisticated yet cozy, Darek Ryniec’s restaurant is set on the lower level of the Zachęta, and despite the grand vaulted ceiling offers substantial privacy with tables nestled beside major columns. The set lunch menu emphasizes Polish, while offering a main menu that’s definitely trendy European: the dishes will be licked clean. $$

Punta Prima ul. Obrzeżna 1B, tel. 22 406 0886, open 11:00-22:00, puntaprima.com.pl There’s something immediately fetching about Punta Prima, a place that announces itself grandly with its deep wood panels and embroidered armchairs. For food, choose from a varied menu that draws on largely Mediterranean influences. Try the bream with herbs baked in sea salt. $$

listings / restaurants Qchnia Artystyczna (E6) Zamek Ujazdowski, Al. Jazdów 2, tel. 22 625 7627, open daily 12:00-22:00, www. qchnia.pl Even on a cold, ashen day, can you question a view that spills down onto a canal and park way down below? And how about when that view comes from a candle-lit reconstructed castle… Endlessly romantic, this artistic eatery comes with a light look and a creative menu honed by Marta Gessler. $$ Renoma (E3) ul. Lipowa 7A, tel. 22 692 7239, open Mon-Fri 8:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-22:00, bistrorenoma.pl Here’s a venue that suits all purposes at all times of day. Most of all, it’s a place that feels positive, a place where heart and mind work seamlessly together: that means breakfast to evening options – many of them gluten-free – including fab lunch deals and 60-day aged steaks. Great for afternoon ‘me time’ or a dinner date with a beautiful stranger, Renoma’s intimate style and soothingly stark interiors work with the personalized approach. $$ Salto (D5) ul. Wilcza 73 (enter from Emilii Plater), tel.

22 584 8771, www.saltorestauracja.pl For those who think Argentine chef Martin Gimenez-Castro is just about steak, then they haven’t been to Salto. The tasting menu is the best way to view his full oeuvre, and on our visit included ceviche with Portuguese corvina; a dainty tranche of cavala mackerel; and Porcini ice cream served in the shape of a mushroom. It’s a brilliant demonstration of the chef’s passion and personality, but most of all, it’s just bloody brilliant. $$$ Secado (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 66, tel. 608 707 799, open Mon-Fri 10:00-23:00; Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-23:00 Casual, intimate interiors complement a menu that’s expanded from its original Latin leanings. Everything we’ve tried here has been culinary gold, and that includes the surf & turf, tortillas and roast beef. That they also fix Warsaw’s top cocktails makes it something of a one-stop solution to your evening. $$ Senses (C2) ul. Bielańska 12, tel. 22 331 9697, open Mon-Fri 12:00-14:30, 17:30-22:00; Sat 17:30-22:00, www.sensesrestaurant.pl The entrance alone is a thing of fancy and accessed through a long open-air corridor, one side flanked by the office block, the other

by bullet grazed brickwork. Flickering flames dance on either side, the tall walls disappearing into the night sky above. Recommended is the six course tasting menu (zł. 230), which on our visit included eel, smoked at the table, duck with onion chutney and pepper mousse and swordfish served amid billowing ‘sea essence’. Comparisons to Atelier Amaro are inevitable, and speak volumes for the innovation and talents of chef Andrea Camastra. $$$ BEST WAWA 2014 “Foreign Chef” Signature (D5) ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 55 38755, open 12:00-23:00, www.signaturerestaurant.pl ‘Kilian who?’ people asked when Wojciech Kilian was installed as head chef. But this young talent has had the last laugh: set to be Poland’s next big chef, his cooking is extraordinary and presents true fine dining at bargain prices. Kilian’s cause is complimented by a beautiful design described by one reader as a ‘Monegasque state of mind’. Think: friezes and reliefs dated from the time this was the Soviet Embassy, lavish 1950s Oswald chairs, lighting by Serge Mouille and original Marilyn photos shot by the acclaimed Milton Greene. You feel a millionaire just being here. $$

merits attention. Sowa is one of the biggest names in Polish cooking, and you may fear he spends more time on TV than he does on his kitchen: we’re happy to report on all of our visits we’ve seen him emerge from the background, sharing backslaps and bear hugs with his regular clientele. $$$ Stółdzielnia (D9) ul. Kazimierzowska 22, tel. 22 845 00 67, open daily 13:00-22:00 www.stoldzielnia.pl A complete anomaly Stółdzielnia looks more like one of those one-day pop-up restaurants: unfinished looking, with odd-shaped tables

Solec 44 (F4) ul. Solec 44, tel. 798 363 996, open Tue-Sun 12:00-last guest; Mon 16:00-last guest. www.solec.waw.pl Chef Aleksander Baron is one of the big characters on Warsaw’s foodie circuit, and his love of nose-to-tail food always ensures surprises on the daily changing menu. Using fresh, seasonally appropriate ingredients, this is one of the best alternate dining experiences around: and yeah, it doesn’t really look like a restaurant. Diners order at the counter before sitting down in a spontaneous looking, cutprice interior that clacks and clatters to the sound of grown-ups playing board games.

We’re huge fans. $$ Sowa & Przyjaciele (G8) ul. Gagarina 2, tel. 795 505 152, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-20:00, www.sowaiprzyjaciele.pl Rocked by its involvement in a government bugging scandal, Robert Sowa has moved fast to reassure customers that all is well in his restaurant. And we can as well. Looking the part with its soft colors and warm lighting, positives are underlined by a sommelier with a sixth sense and a barnstorming menu that www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / restaurants and stark colors. But keep an open mind because the food scores big points. The pizza, pasta and seafood dishes incorporate imported Italian ingredients, and come close to blowing your mind. $$ Szklarnia ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), tel. 690 511 020, open 11:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00, restauracjaszklarnia.pl The cuisine is influenced by the season, which means plenty of light summer dishes presented with real aplomb. Recognizable by the dazzle of neon and greenhouse outside, this is a restaurant that seamlessly fits with the Soho surrounds. $$ Tamka 43 (E3) ul. Tamka 43, tel. 22 441 6234, open Mon-Sun 10:00-23:00, www.tamka.43.pl The design is upscale but in a quiet, dignified manner, with the principal talking point being the view: there it is, right in front of you, the Ostrogski Palace. For date night, book the peacock’s perch, a table for two that juts out from the rest of the glass frontage. Tamka

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have finessed a menu that stands out as one of the best in the city, with a seasonal tasting menu that on our visit featured beautiful zander with horse radish powder, Irish beef cheek with plenty of oomph, and a wild garlic panna cotta. Consider it one of the Poland’s elite restaurants. $$$

have made them a favorite for corporate bashes and brand launches. The Vichyssoise with truffles is a prelude to mains like filet mignon in red wine sauce. $$$

U Chłopaków (B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 115 9710, open 8:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00 Chłodna’s renaissance continues. Formerly a decrepit grocery store of the same name, Chłopaków is all exposed brick, sprigs of greenery and overhanging lamps. It’s a casual stop, but the cooking is not a throwaway – the menu is heavily slanted towards Eastern European, and has winning pierogi and wonderfully thick goulash. $$

Wilczy Głód (D5) ul. Wilcza 29A, tel. 22 891 0285, open Mon 9:30-20:00; Tue-Thu 9:30-22:00; Fri 9:3023:00; Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 The jaunty, impish design makes use of cartoonish wolves on the walls and tree-like installations strung with bare light bulbs.

And look, there’s a furry, mouse resting on a cushion. But if the place is playful and perky, then the cooking is both serious and sincere.

Twinning international ideas with organic local produce from small family farmsteads, you immediately sense this is a place created out of a love and respect for food. $

Villa Foksal (E4) ul. Foksal 3/5, tel. 22 827 8716, open MonFri 12:00 -22:00; Sat-Sun 13:00-23:00, www.restauracjavillafoksal.pl There’s a real elegance to Villa Foksal, an upscale restaurant whose floor plan and garden

Winosfera (B3) ul. Chłodna 31, tel. 22 526 2500, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00, www.winosfera.pl Everyone enjoys the food, and Jakub Adamczyk’s seasonally adjusted menu is indeed a thing of greatness: the beef tenderloin is a

listings / restaurants must, while the rhubarb parfait is a dessert of distinction. The prices reflect the quality of the kitchen, but certainly not that of the wait staff – two years after opening, and Winosfera still haven’t ironed out issues such as front-of-house staff who greet guests with an ‘Uh’. $$$ Wootwórnia (H4) ul. Królowej Aldony 5, tel. 603 696 259, open 10:00-22:00, www.wootwornia.pl.

Accessed round a back garden, Wootwórnia feels like a private little secret – you get the sensation not of visiting a restaurant, but of visiting a friend. The dominant element is the counter, from which co-owner Agnes Woo showcases her homemade preserves and own-baked cakes. Sourcing ingredients from small-scale local farms, here is a menu designed to nourish the soul. And it does just that. The tomato soup, enriched with hint of orange, aniseed and cinnamon isn’t soup of the day, it’s our soup of the year.

Genuine ‘food from the heart’. $$ Żurawina (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34, tel. 22 521 06 66, open Mon-Thu 8:00-24:00; Fri 8:00-1:00; Sat 14:00-1:00; Sun 14:00-22:00, zurawina. eu First a wine bar, second a restaurant, but the food here is such that it merit attention.

There’s only seven or so mains to pick from, and the chef has them down to a tee – rib eye with shallots and truffle butter? Yes please. Certainly, the quality befits one of Warsaw’s best wine bars.

italian Ave Pizza (E3) ul. Topiel 12, tel. 22 828 8507, open 12:00-22:00 The argument over who serves Warsaw’s best pizza goes right to the wire, but there’s no doubting that Ave Pizza are up there on the leaderboard. Set across a sparse, metropolitan area, this fashionable L-shaped joint comes endorsed by the capital’s notoriously picky Italian community. Order the pillowy calzone and you’ll soon learn why. $ Bacio (D5) ul. Wilcza 43, tel. 22 626 83 03, open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00, www.bacio.pl New look Bacio has been de-cluttered and simplified and now features a stripped down look and a menu that peaks with the duck in red wine risotto. Portions are huge, and are matched by a quality that’s seen this once ailing giant reinstalled as one of the top Italian eats in town. $$

Bistro Bordo ul. Chimelna 34 & Gałczyńskiego 9, bordo.com.pl Two locations, one standing dead center on the revamped end of Chmielna, and the other tucked down leafy Gałczyńskiego. Opening earlier than their sister, the original on Chmielna offers a

breakfast menu from 9 onwards. In both find simple Italian recipes accurately reproduced and wood-fired pizza ovens that are expertly manned. $$ Delizia (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 22 622 6665, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00, www.delizia.com.pl The sheer proliferation of Italian restaurants lends an element of chance to dining out: cut through the noise by visiting Delizia, a place that’s consistently topped polls ever since it launched in 2010. Lorenzo’s cooking is upscale Italian with a contemporary twist, and comes presented by Luca, an ebullient ball of energy who patrols the floor with sparkling good humor. In the hands of these two an unforgettable night comes guaranteed.

Top quality imported products, a dimly-lit romantic atmosphere, a tasteful design and faultless food: no wonder so many rate this as their favorite Italian. $$ Dziurka od Klucza (E3) ul. Radna 13, tel. 500 150 494, open Mon-Sun 12:00-22:00, dziurkaodklucza. com.pl An inviting Italian restaurant in which curious doors sit embedded into the walls, as if waiting to be opened by the keys that hang on the tree outside. Striking a lavender look, the magic of this restaurant is affirmed by its wonderful pasta and intimate style. $$ Focaccia (D2) ul. Senatorska 13/15, tel. 22 829 6969, open 8:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-23:00,

• The best quality USDA Black Angus prime beef, Wagyu 9+ Kobe steaks and Scottish prime beef.

• Outstanding seafood menu with oysters, mussels, octopus and calamari and seasonal, traditional Polish dishes.

• The largest selections of global wine in Poland. ul. Merliniego 5 (across from the Warszawianka water park) tel. 22 646 0810/22 646 0849

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listings / restaurants focaccia.pl Polish foodies already know the name of Łukasz Toczka – single-handedly he pulled the culinary shipwreck that is Gdańsk into the 21st century during his stint at Metamorfoza restaurant. Now he’s popped up in Warsaw, and his Italian menu illustrates his talent: consider the bistecca con sedano a must. And while you’d expect a restaurant inside a palace to be all bowties and oil paintings, it’s anything but – instead find fresh, light interiors that reflect the nature of the food. $$ Kotłownia ul. Suzina 8, tel. 22 833 23 27, open daily 13:00-last guest (kitchen to 23:00), www. winiarnia-kotlownia.pl You’d never guess from the grey surrounds but Kotłownia is one of the emerging stars of Warsaw dining.

Set in a historic disused boiler house (the Warsaw Uprising started right outside!) a generous helping of wooden touches warm the split level industrial interiors, but it’s the food that steals the show. The modern Italian menu reflects the owner’s passion for Italy, as

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does the handpicked wine list. The convivial atmosphere makes it perfect for a long, lazy lunch. $$ Mąka i Woda (D4) ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 91 87, open Mon-Thu 12:00-22:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-20:00 Purists applaud an approach that uses a custom-made oven from Naples and imported ingredients such as 00 Caputo flour and DOP certified San Marzano tomatoes. Scrupulously authentic, it’s no wonder that it’s packed to the gunnels every night of the week – even their Facebook page warns of 20 minute waiting times for a table alone. Learning this, some storm off in a huff – they need their heads checked, for this is Warsaw’s best pizza. $ Mamma Marietta (C9) ul. Wołoska 74A, tel. 22 880 0071, open 12:00-22:00, www.mammamarietta.com A scattering of tables make reservations recommended in Mamma Marietta, an informal looking restaurant with lugubrious interiors

and solemn service. But the food, created by head chef Andrea, has an authenticity that’s rare in a city whose enthusiasm for Italian food isn’t always reflected by quality. The tomato soup starter, is deliciously thick and almost worth the trip itself. $$ Parmizzano’s (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel, Floor 1), tel. 22 630 6306, open 12:00-23:00 The prices are highly intimidating, but are offset by cooking that never falls below brilliant.

Hotel restaurants get a bad rep, but in the formal surrounds of Parmiazzano’s diners can expect Italian food at its very best. $$$ Ristorante San Lorenzo (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 36, tel. 22 652 1616, open 12:00-last guest, www.sanlorenzo. pl Adorned with crisp, starched linen and Roman frescos this space is almost magisterial in design. The Tuscan menu is flawless and well worth the rather hefty bill. The wine bar on the ground floor features the same standards at a snip of the price, and it’s here

OLIVA_MAJ_46x206_02 2015.05.12 9:49

listings / restaurants you’ll find Italian natives cheering the Serie A football. Now also on Żurawia 6/12, only with a more modish design clearly targeted at a slightly younger audience. $$ The Olive (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6706, open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, Sat & Sun 6:30-11:00 Bursting with seasonal fruits and veggies, it’s a fresh, fun place to eat. Hot and cold buffet for zł. 90. $$$ Trattoria da Antonio (D5) ul. Żurawia 18, tel. 22 625 5417, open Sun-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-24:00, www.trattoriadaantonio.pl At times you suspect you’ve walked into the 90s, what with the embellishments that appear at each turn – a Vespa, some stone lions, a water well. But this is no bad thing: at a time when restaurants are doing their best to look stripped down and functional, cheerful Antonio feels jaunty and fun. And the food, created by Sicilian-born Antonio Centurrino, has several redeeming qualities: the penne arrabiata is delicious in its simplicity, though for a piece of heaven try the gnocchi tartufati.

No less than a warm trattoria whose specialty is good, simple food. $$ Trattoria Rucola ul. Miodowa 1, tel. 888 575 457 & ul.

Francuska 6, tel. 22 616 1259, open daily 12:00-22:00 & ul. Krucza 6/14, tel. 22 465 1836, open Mon-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00, www.trattoriarucola.pl They’ve expanded to cover many locations across town, and in doing so have lost many of their regulars – as far as a chain enterprise goes, the pizza remains pretty good, but you feel a certain spark has been lost as a consequence of their growth. $ Vapiano Al. Jerozolimskie 63 (Lipinski Passage), tel.

22 356 10 50, open Mon-Thu 9:00-23:00, Fri 9:00-1:00; Sat 11:00-1:00, Sun 11:00-22:00 & ul. Taśmowa 7 (Marynarska Business Park) & ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów) www. vapiano.de/pl Here’s one chain brand that is worth the hype. Featuring a chic look rounded out with Ferrari red colors, the thin crust pizza earns its spurs, and the pasta combinations are great. $$ Venti-tre (E8) ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel), tel. 22 558 1094, open 6:30-23:00 There’s a hum and a buzz to the place that goes beyond

the half a million bees kept in the apiary on the rooftop, and that’s never truer than on a Sunday afternoon – swing by for one of Warsaw’s top brunches, and don’t miss the terrace – carefully shielded from the outside world by a phalanx of greenery. The Mediterranean menu has been carefully constructed using local ingredients, with the results befitting one of Warsaw’s top hotels. $$$

japanese & sushi Hana Sushi al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), tel. 22 331 7518, open Mon-Sat 11:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, www.hanasushi.pl Dated decor of bamboo shoots and bonsai trees is made to look good by dreadful service and irritating elevator music. But it’s hard to dislike Hana – the ‘gunkan special’ is out of this world. $$ Izumi Sushi ul. Mokotowska 17 (pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 22 825 7950, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00 & ul. Biały Kamień 4, tel. 22 424 0055, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.izumisushi.eu The original location never ceases to amaze with its sushi, though it’s the addition on Biały Kamień that really gets people talking.

Here it’s not just the food that wows, but the interiors: a huge venue whose open plan doubles as an indoor forest – you need to see it to believe it. $$

restauracjaoliva.pl

phone +48 501 497 410 facebook.com/RestauracjaOliva twitter.com/OlivaWarszawa

Ryż i Ryba (D6) ul. Piękna 20, tel. 22 627 4150, open MonFri 11:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-22:00, www. ryziryba.pl The art of sushi is given a new lease of life in this Piękna newbie. The flavors are a revelation, making it more than just a stop-off for passing office workers. $$ Sakana Sushi Bar ul. Burakowska 5/7 tel. 22 636 0505, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00, Sun 13:00-22:00 & ul. Moliera 4/6, tel. 22 826 5958, open MonThu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-1:00; Sun 13:00-22:00 & ul. Wąwozowa 6, lok.10B, tel. 22 498 8899, Mon-Sat 12:00-22:30, Sun 13:00-22:00, www.sakana.pl Sushi as a fashion statement? That’s what you find in Sakana, a place where the glam and the great of Warsaw peacock around with feathers on display. Ignoring the general vanity and unpleasantness, one can’t help

Warszawa

Ordynacka 10/12

open 12 am - 11 pm

WELCOME www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / restaurants but applaud the sushi – if there was one winner in the sushi wars of the noughties, then Sakana was it. $$ Sushi Zushi (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 420 3373, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-03:00; Sun 13:00-22:00, www.sushizushi.pl The mania for sushi is in recess, and that’s a good thing – the rogue operators are dead or dying off, and are survived by the best. And make no mistake, Sushi Zushi continue to be the No. 1 ex-pat choice. Appreciated by a stunning crowd, the rolls are often bold, creative and always astonishingly fresh. $$

and demolished in seconds. Soon enough it all becomes a blur of beautiful compositions, of silky slithers of fish crowned with expert pinches of this, and little brush strokes of that. The details don’t seem to matter, what does is that Wabu blow the competition out of the water, even if it does leave the credit card streaming smoke. $$$

jewish

Tomo (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2344, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.tomo.pl Excellent.

While Warsaw’s other sushi stops gather cobwebs Tomo packs out each night – that should say enough. With the maki, sushi and sashimi bobbing past on wooden platters, this place aims for fast, maximum turnover without ever making the diner feel second best. $$

Galil (C3) ul. Zielna 36, tel. 731 492 634, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Sun 14:00-23:00, www.galil-restaurant.pl There’s been a few Jewish restaurants opened in the last couple of years, and they’ve all quickly folded.

Already though, there’s the impression Galil might last the distance, a point underlined by the rather good food. We started with a zesty tabouleh before moving on to grilled chicken breast with dates and a syrup glaze. Set inside a rambling, tiled interior, this labyrinthine space already looks like its snaring big-spending groups. Kosher certified, as well. $$

Wabu (D5) ul. Krucza 41/43, tel. 22 628 9274, open 12:00-23:00, wabu.pl The food is a masterpiece: immaculate futomaki rolls that look like little artworks, exquisite butterfish and glorious tuna gunkan that flashes with freshness. Screw the chopsticks, food this good finds itself scooped up in the fingers

Pod Samsonem (C1) ul. Freta 3/5, tel. 22 831 1788, open 10:0023:00, www.podsamsonem.pl Operating since the 1950s – crazy when you think about it. This is the place for an ordinary meal in an ordinary space. The menu mixes aspects of Polish and Jewish cooking, and fails to do a good job of either. Entertainment is provided

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by the staff: find them engaged in something akin to war with the people they serve. $

latin & mexican Aioli (D3) ul. Świętokrzyska 18, tel. 22 290 102, open Sun-Thu 9:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 9:00-24:00 This runaway hit has taken Warsaw by storm.

It’s a jaunty space with hams hanging from hooks and long communal tables that thrive with life. Aioli’s breakfasts, sandwiches, pastas and pizzas are a lesson in clean, simple pleasure: nothing out of the world, just consistently good. This and the liberal prices mean there’s no shortage of people passing in and out the doors. $$ Blue Cactus (E8) ul. Zajączkowska 11, tel. 22 851 2323, open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 9:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, www.bluecactus.pl It’s been around for so long that people had started referring to the Cactus in the past tense. Enter executive chef Patrick Hanna, a man who has revitalized and revived the place in a way no-one could have imagined. Combining the barbecuing techniques of the southern states with the humble but potent tastes of Mexico, Hanna has reawakened this sleeping giant.

Committed to local produce and fresh flavors, his finest moment has been hoiking over a wood-fired grill all the way from Nashville – the steaks will stop you in your tracks. Say it loudly: the Blue Cactus is back! $

listings / restaurants Casa Pablo (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5A, tel. 22 324 5781, open Mon-Sat 12:00-last guest, www.casapablo. pl While increasingly well represented in the capital, Spanish food has been pointed in a new direction by Casa Pablo. Breaking away from hackneyed clichés, the eclectic interior (tartan colors, crates, a century old mirror) is reflective of a menu that places equal importance on flair, quality and elements of fine dining. Based on the ‘creative Spanish’ movement, find the likes of pork ribs in hoi sin and honey sauce introduced, not to mention cod cooked at 45° and served with pigs trotters. You’ll be amazed. $$ Dos Tacos (D4) ul. Jasna 22, tel. 22 243 4618, open 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00, dostacos. pl Dos Tacos finally have a venue worthy of the food. Featuring lots of Mexican lizard art and psychedelic, Day of the Dead touches, find the interiors busy with a lively crowd enjoying an exciting range of salsas and authentic Mexican recipes as cooked by Isabela Balderas. $$ Gringo Bar (E9) ul. Odolańska 15, tel. 22 848 9523, open Mon-Sat 12:00-20:00; Sun 11:00-20:00 A Mexican wave is upon us, and high time too. After years of suffering frozen ingredients, timid flavors and daft Mariachi music to persuade us it’s all authentic, a raft of new cut-price eateries are showing the rest how it’s done. Cooked and folded by fist bumping lads in back-to-front caps and baggy t-shirts, the food at Gringo is the best of the bunch: fiery, fresh and full of zing.

Jamon (D2) ul. Wierzbowa 9, tel. 22 692 4223, open 12:00-23:00, jamon.pl The place looks the biz – custom made artwork presents swirling senoritas against an interior that’s based around a naval color palette and reclaimed wood touches. Perfect for ‘hot dates’.

There’s an onus on authenticity, and that’s evidenced by the four Spaniards found in the kitchen. We could find no weak point, meaning complete enjoyment of the tranche of black Alaskan cod, bulgy-eyed Huelva prawns and slow-roasted lamb shank. The desert – white chocolate cream – is worth a prize. $$ La Fiesta Tequila Bar (E4) ul. Foksal 21, tel. 22 829 8560, open 12:00-3:00, www.lafiesta.pl What was once

a pretty diabolical Mexican joint has, apparently, experienced a dramatic turnabout. The sombreros and crap have been replaced by a psychedelic, Day of the Dead-style featuring skeletal Mariachi men, not to mention no shortage of tequila bottles. But the real gossip is reserved for the kitchen: gone are the fraudsters who used to work here, and in their place is Jorge Martinez – no guessing where he’s from. Is his menu up to scratch?

Absolutely no idea. We left after having a run-in with the worst service experienced since the Cold War ended. $

Tapas Gastrobar (A4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 251 1310, open Mon-Thu 12:00-last guest (kitchen closes at 23:00); Fri-Sat 12:00-last guest (kitchen closes at midnight); Sun 12:00-19:00 (kitchen closes at 18:00), tapasbar.pl The engaging design features scuffed timber tables supported by rescued factory metal, open ductwork and elaborate floor tiles of Iberian persuasion. But the food is what everyone is talking about: the first class gazpacho, prepared onsite then served in a bottle, is full of refreshing summer zing, while the beef cheek is pure melty tenderness. Our favorite, though, are the patatas bravas, perfectly fried potatoes served in a ballsy tomato sauce.

BEST WAWA 2014 Just amazing. $$ “Casual Dining”

‘Simplicity, elegance and atmosphere’

Cafe • Wine Bar • Restaurant • Whisky Bar • Wine Cellar ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 515 037 001 www.hoza.warszawa.pl www.facebook.com/hoza25 Open 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-21:00

Spoco Loco (H4) ul. Francuska 8, open 12:00-21:00, www. spocoloco.pl It begins with a bead of sweat.

Then a couple of tears. Then the real pain starts and doesn’t retract until you’ve rolled on the floor and died for twenty minutes.

Spoco Loco’s No. 7 sauce is no laughing matter, and should be treated with respect.

But this tiny eatery is not founded on gimmicks. The burritos and quesadillas are the real deal, and ably supported by a choice of milder sauces that don’t require Red Cross treatment. After a mysterious absence of six months, it’s heartening to see Spoco Loco back open for business. $ Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46 (entrance from ul. Poznańska), tel. 22 621 8622, open 12:00-last guest, www.warsawtortillafactory.pl Howling hot salsas and freshly made tortillas give WTF a head start on other restaurants, but there www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / restaurants are other strings to their poncho: the menu has been slimmed and continues to be tinkered with, while the introduction of zł. 15 lunches – served on Alcatraz trays – present one of the best deals in town. We’ve enjoyed the burritos here for years, and score them as amongst the best around. $$

middle eastern

HeyooDubai (B2) Al. Jana Pawła 45/54, tel. 535 075 770, open 11:00-23:00, tagine.pl Any doubts you have about a restaurant trying to cover the cuisine of Morocco, Pakistan and the Gulf states is immediately dispelled by the thick, rich aromas that pour from the traditional Mandi oven. The couscous is stalwart, and the charcoal grilled chicken a dish of real

standing. Affordable and casual, Heyoo is the real deal. $$

Le Cedre (E1) Al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166, open daily 11:00-23:00, www.lecedre.pl With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops. $$

Le Cedre 84 (B3) Al. Solidarności 84, tel. 22 618 8999, open 11:00-23:00, www. lecedre.pl Le Cedre just keep on getting it

right. Authenticity is key in this chainlette (well, there’s another across the river), as you’ll discover when talking to Tony, the Lebanese owner. To see the diversity of this cuisine, order the balbaak (six cold starters) or the byblos (six hot). And food aside, it’s the atmosphere that carries them that extra yard: the whole philosophy of this cuisine is to share and share alike, making it a uniquely engaging experience when dining with friends. $$ Meza Beirut (D4) ul. Ordynacka 13, tel. 22 692 7555, open Sun-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-2:00, mezabeirut.pl God knows how many restaurants have chanced their luck in this location, though Meza Beirut look a better bet than most to break the hex. Lebaneserun, the menu here is comprehensive with all the requisite hot and cold mezze and grilled and skewered meats. Early feedback has been largely positive, with decent prices and fresh flavors doing their bit to stir local interest. $$

Krakowskie Przedmieście 64 tel. +48 22 826 4770 email. info@delicjapolska.pl www.delicjapolska.pl

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listings / restaurants Samira ul. Powsińska 64A, tel. 22 825 3363, open 10:00-21:00; Sun 12:00-18:00, samira.pl There was something a little seedy about Samira’s old location, but that’s all forgotten in their new digs on Powsińska.

Find this great Lebanese supermarket filling a dual role as an authentic restaurant serving authentic dishes such as kafta and shawarma. $$ Sokotra (D5) ul. Wilcza 27, tel. 22 270 2766, open Mon-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.sokotra.pl A Yemeni restaurant with a brief menu full of recognizable Eastern dishes like hummus and grilled halloumi. And one of the big boons is the discovery that Indian influences also fall under the compass of Yemeni cuisine – the madras leaves you puffing smoke rings. Find all that in a casual interior composed of chattery locals and mysterious concrete additions – e.g. a telegraph pole squeezed amid the tables. $$

polish Ale Gloria (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7080, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.alegloria.pl Who said romance was dead? Here wedding white colors are fused with a strawberry motif inside this gourmet fave. Keeping patrons returning are aromatic dishes with a contemporary twist – try the duck in rose sauce. $$$

Amber Room at the Sobański Palace (E6) Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat 12:0022:30; Sun 12:00-20:00, www.amberroom. pl The Amber Room is, indeed, a bit of a treasure. You know all the chefs we bang on about in this mag? Bottom line, the good ones came through via this kitchen. But this is more than a training ground for future

stars, it’s a place that remains on the cutting edge in spite of its seemingly straight look. Positioned inside a majestic villa, the food is pure contemporary Poland, and well deserving of its Michelin nod. For that, thank chef Robert Kupisz. $$$ Atelier Amaro (E6) ul. Agrykola 1, tel. 22 628 5747, open Mon-Sat 12:00-14:30; 18:00-22:30, www. atelieramaro.pl The recipient of Poland’s only Michelin star, Atelier promotes pedigree Polish produce enhanced by modern techniques, with courses interspersed by occasionally bizarre interludes (leaves, flowers, twigs, etc.). Don’t miss the bespoke vodka menu, either. It’s an extraordinary dining experience, and one which confirms the growing cult of chef Wojciech Amaro. In the hours you’re here, the world stops and you leave feeling like James Bond. Reservations are mandatory, with a waiting list that is approximately two to three months long. $$$ BEST WAWA 2014 “Presentation”

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listings / restaurants

Belvedere Łazienki Królewskie ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. 22 558 6701, open MonSat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-20:00, belvedere.com.pl Regarded as one of the great names on Warsaw’s culinary carousel, this restaurant never ceases to impress: set in a imperial age glass orangery, it’s festooned with intricate latticework and botanical exotica. The updated interiors are the work

of acclaimed set designer Boris Kudlicka, and lend a fresh, contemporary tone that goes hand in hand with Adam Komar’s menu. But behind the gels and emulsions and pretty little swirls, this is cooking of substantial depth; it’s cooking that takes you to the very soul of Polish nature. $$$ Bistro Warszawa (D1) ul. Jezuicka 1/3, tel. 22 635 3769, open daily 12:00-24:00, www.bistrowarszawa.pl The menu cites pre-war recipe books as its influence, and on it you’ll find such dishes

as goose in thyme sauce with pear and zucchini. The interiors are strictly contemporary though, with vanilla colored furnishings, wine racks and walls papered with hundreds of theater scripts and book pages. Regular jazz performances draw people city-wide. $$ Chłopskie Jadło (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1717, open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00 A nationwide chain enterprise designed to mimic a peasant inn, what with all the clunky pots and rustic supplements. And if

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listings / restaurants it’s farmers fare you’re after then the food isn’t bad either, with thick, lumpy servings of countryside classics and soup presented in bread. Twenty-something Poles cringe at such a representation of their country, but there’s no denying it: it’s an accurate caricature of a mountain-slope karczma. $

Czerwony Wieprz (Red Hog) (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 22 850 3144, open daily 12:0024:00 (kitchen to 23:00), www.czerwonywieprz.pl Now everyone is rich and happy, it’s easy to forget communism was a pretty dire experiment. Which explains the playful nature of this commie themed restaurant. Dining is done under red banners and paintings of nasty political activists, while the menu is a humorous affair divided between dishes for the dignitary and proletariat – all details that saw it names as one of the Top 25 Unique Restaurants in the World. Another vodka, comrade, and the First Secretary’s pork loins while you’re there! $$

Folk Gospoda (B3) ul. Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605, open daily 12:00-midnight, www.folkgospoda.pl Be honest, sometimes all you want to do is slather lard on a big hunk of bread before surrounding yourself with little shots of ice cold vodka. You wouldn’t call it cultivated, but there are occasions when a good knees-up around a rough wooden table is exactly what’s required.

And while you’re there, why not add platters of meat to the scene, a crackling fireplace and a mountain band. Folk Gospoda do all that making them the default favorite for a traditional night out. $$

Delicja Polska (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 64, tel. 22 826 4770, open daily 12:00-last guest, www. delicjapolska.pl Looking stately (pink bows, gilt touches and immaculate linen) but never stuffy, Delicja have a modern Polish menu that includes sous-vide salmon marinated in beetroot leave, then topped with horseradish foam and dill emulsion. Brilliant. But then so was everything else we tried, including the exquisite seasoned roast beef. $$

Halka Restaurcja po polsku ul. Puławska 43, tel. 509 593 305, open Mon-Fri 11:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-22:00, restauracjahalka.pl Named in honor of one of Poland’s best known operas, Halka offer a glimpse of old school Warsaw. Having relocated from downtown Pańska, the new address is a cut and paste of the former location: lots of glinting surfaces, ornate crockery and pink flower arrangements. Innovation is surrendered for a menu that deals in classic interpretations of upmarket Polish food: rabbit, goose, duck and other animals shot on country estates.

Dom Polski (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 2432, open daily 12:00-last guest, www.restauracjadompolski.pl Almost like it was designed for the manor born, Dom Polski has the rarefied atmosphere of a country retreat: bow-tied staff who click their heels, decorative antiques and a menu that’s a sumptuous anthology of posh Polish cooking. When you need to give visitors a sense of classic Warsaw, Dom Polski is the first out of the hat. $$$

Jaś & Małgosia (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 57, tel. 502 033 711, klubjasimalgosia.pl Back from the dead!

An institution dating from the 60s, Jaś & Małgosia have reopened after a three year hiatus. Updated they might be, but the design (concrete floors, exposed brickwork) features several nods to the past – not least a replica of the famous neon that once crowned the roof. The menu was designed in collaboration with Aleksander Baron, and while unglamorous and uncomplicated is food that represents all that’s good about the Polish kitchen: thick soups, fresh vegetables and hefty meat. Most of all, it makes you feel good on a wet, windy day. $

Dom Polski Belwederska (F8) ul. Belwederska 18A, tel. 22 840 5060, open 12:00-23:00, restauracjadompolski.pl The

perfect complement to their older sister on Francuska, the new offshoot of Dom Polski features a beautiful look that draws heavily on classic, almost noble inspirations. As for the garden, that in itself is a fairytale that requires exploration. The menu is as you’d expect, a modernized take on the traditional, with the game dishes an emphatic favorite. $$

UL. ZŁOTA 11, TEL. 668 016 964 CAFELOFT.PL

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listings / restaurants Kafe Zielony Niedwiedz (E4) ul. Smolna 4, tel. 731 996 006, open 8:00-23:00. The Smolna address is a bit misleading – in reality, you’ll be traipsing down into the park under the ‘hammer head’ tower before reaching Zbyszek Kmieć’s restaurant. But you’ll be glad you did. The menu has hints of Atelier Amaro in its fiendish attention to natural Polish produce: the cream of beetroot soup is peerless, and the boar ragout gains similar approval. This is a happy marriage where traditions are turned on their head using creative techniques and precise presentation. At the same time, be

warned the scene here might not appeal: it’s very stars in your eyes as Polish celebs – both major and minor – swan about while their acolytes simper. $$

Kuchnia Funkcjonalna (G3) ul. Jakubowska 16 (enter from ul. Estońska), tel. 512 893 898, open Mon-Thu 11:0023:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-23:00 Snuck inside one of Saska’s definitive modernist buildings, Kuchnia make slow food accessible to all wallets. Venison from the Bieszczady Mountains, dairy products from Jersey cattle milk, and the use of goose fat instead of butter are just a few noteworthy characteristics; the frequently changing menu reflects the commitment to nature. The ascetic design is softened by a cast-iron stove and moody lighting, giving the restaurant a warm, seasonal glow, while the garden gives people the opportunity to eavesdrop the big concerts at the stadium next door! $$ Mała Polana Smaków (F9) ul. Belwederska 13/44, tel. 22 400 8048, open 12:00-22:00, polanasmakow.pl Put simply, it works on every level: from the service to the space – outside, a terrace featuring upcycled crates overlooking Morskie Oko, and on the inside, a cute little room with woodsy bits and big glass jars of mystery ingredients. It’s casual, but still fit for more serious roles: e.g. girlfriend night.

And the food: exceptional. Lots of seasonally changing choices that on our visit meant salmon sausage matched with beetroot and horseradish sauce along with pinches of lavender and fennel. $$ Oycowizna ul. Słoneczna 241 (Lesznowola), tel. 22 713 8993, open 11:00-23:00, oycowizna. pl A bucolic country cottage set 20 clicks from Warsaw is home to this charmer of a hotel / restaurant. Filled with hanging pots, pans and horseshoes, there’s something authentically Polish about it all. Same goes for the menu, which is a deliciously filling rundown of the Old Polish kitchen. $$

Papu (D9) al. Niepodległości 132/136, tel. 22 856 7788, open 11:00-22:30, restauracjapapu.

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pl The elegant décor sees wood-paneled walls lined with champagne bottles, making it an experience that is at once intimate and romantic. Chef Bartek Kędra’s menu is specifically strong when it comes to white and red meats, while the wine list has been endorsed by Andrzej Strzelczyk, Poland’s champion sommelier. $$ Podwale Piwna Kompania (D2) ul. Podwale 25, tel. 22 635 6314, open Mon-Sat 11:00-01:00; Sun 12:00-24:00, www.podwale25.pl Set through a courtyard that replicates a Mitteleuropa square, Podwale has a beer hall atmosphere that’s further exaggerated when mountain bands circulate. Food is of average standard and served in portions that are obscene – finishing the wooden platters can be seriously traumatic. Go there for the experience, if nothing else. $ Prasowy (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16, open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-19:00 Delicate diners turn their back on milk bars, yet this canteen-style phenomenon, with its history rooted in communism, has enjoyed a remarkable renaissance and a freshly found popularity with a new generation. Sure, the food is an acquired taste and best described using words like ‘basic’ and ‘honest’, but Prasowy gets our vote for a cool design that’s seen the 1954 interiors sensitively updated. $ Przystawki (B1) ul. Stawki 3, tel. 22 299 1619, open 10:00-22:00, przystawki.com Welcome to Muranów: the black hole of local gastronomy.

But change is in the air – first came the opening of Jaś i Małgosia, and now comes Przy Stawki. Both keep it simple, gunning for a straight forward menu that presents the kind of cooking you’d like to see at the in-laws: local ingredients cooked with care.

In a nutshell, this is Polish home cooking at moderate prices. More places like this, please. $ Restauracja Pod Gigantami (E5) Al. Ujadowskie 24, tel. 22 629 2312, open daily 12:00-23:00, www.podgigantami. pl Despite being judged worthy of a recommendation by the scouts at Michelin, Pod Gigantami divides local opinion; it’s not just the Insider that’s found the food only satisfactory. But the wine list impresses, as do the painfully ornate turn-of-the-century interiors. $$$

listings / restaurants Restauracja Polska “Różana” (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 22 848 1225, open 12:00-last guest, www.restauracjarozana. com.pl The rarified atmosphere of Różana is a pleasure indeed. Close to the frontline of Mokotów / Śródmieście, you’d never guess the proximity of the center. Seated in their garden, one feels removed from the city – a fountain burbles quietly in the background, starlings hop around the trees.

From the inside, one hears the distant tinkle of the house pianist. Just being here is a thrill in itself, and the food is a Polish dining extravaganza served from the top table: farmhouse duck, saddle of venison, etc.

Słoik (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 600 396 688, open Mon-Fri 10:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-23:00, restauracjasloik.pl Jarheads will love Słoik, a place lined with glass jars brimming with colorful ingredients and bright preserves.

Find natural Polish produce and traditionalsounding dishes treated with a careful and contemporary hand. The approach pits modernist against classic, and the winner is, well, you. This is traditional Polish food updated for the discerning, latter day palate – and it’s really quite something. $$

menu of duck, venison, veal and lamb. $$$ U Szwejka (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1710, open Mon-Fri 8:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-24:00, www.uszwejka.pl Named after the fictional Czech soldier Szwejk, the food here would certainly appeal to the tubby man himself. Bestowed with Prague street signs, the food is a hardy, meaty affair, and arrives in XXXL portions. The price to quantity (Note: not quality) ratio guarantees queues (yes, queues) that stretch out on the street every weekend, though it’ll be curious to see if the crowds still pack in following the loss of their alcohol license. Food like this really needs beer – without it, well, you be the judge. $$

tender braised veal that’s good for the chills.

You leave knowing you have eaten honestly and well. $$

steak houses Beef n’Pepper (C5) ul. Nowogrodzka 47A, tel. 731 307 377, open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00, Sun 12:0023:00 A social space that encourages friends to gather and make merry over big meaty courses. Served on heavy tree stump plates, steaks here use Polish Angus aged for a 28

Varso Vie (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 2, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-22:00, tel. 22 622 2472, varsovie.pl Moderate prices and outstanding food that holds taste and presentation in equal respect. While we sampled only starters what we saw gives plenty of cause for return: a trio of veal tongues with jelly and horseradish foam, along with delicate goose dumplings with marjoram sauce and cranberries: simple food but with interesting presentation and tastes that are true. $$

RESTAURANT & COCKTAIL BAR

Stary Dom ul. Puławska 104/106, tel. 22 646 4208, open 12:00-23:30, restauracjastarydom.pl A classic restaurant in style and history: back in the day it was a favorite haunt of jockeys and race goers from the horse track nearby.

Pre-war recipes form the basis of the menu, with the team using seasonal produce and the latest technology to bring out its best. $$ U Fukiera (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 27 (Old Town Market Square), tel. 22 831 1013, open 12:00-last guest, www.ufukiera.pl New arrivals looking to get a grasp of local cuisine have many options in varying price brackets. U Fukiera is definitely in the big spend category, but visitors come away with a common sense of wonderment. That’s largely due to enchanting interiors that have guests exploring twinkling chambers that unravel like a fairytale. Set in a 500 year old townhouse, the beautiful backdrop is paired by a grand

Zapiecek Locations inc. ul. Nowy Świat 64, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska 13, tel. 22 635 61 09, open 11:00-23:00 & ul. Wańkowicza 1, open 11:00-22:00, CH Arkadia, open 10:00-22:00, www.zapiecek.eu Seven Warsaw locales, with our favorite found in the vaulted passages of Świętojańska. The menu is highly traditional, with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’.

It’s for the pierogi though for which they’re famous; find approx. fifty types delivered by servers dressed like saucy country maids. $

restaurant with a cocktail bar in the BUSTLING center of Warsaw, invites YOU to TASTE THE BEST OF Polish cuisine.

Zielnik (D10) ul. Odyńca 15, tel. 22 844 3500, open 10:0023:30, restauracjazielnik.pl A quiet Mokotów side street is the setting for this little secret.

In it, flowers, lots of them, and a warming wood interior just right for winter. And then the food arrives: dainty veal dumplings, and www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / restaurants day period. And yes, it’s definitely decent.

If you’re into the concept of sharing with your fellow man, then the Beef n’Pepper plate offers a pile of everything: wings, ribs, steak. $$ Butchery & Wine (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 502 3118, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00, www. butcheryandwine.pl Has it really been that long? Opened to wide acclaim in 2011, Butchery & Wine stirred Warsaw’s appetite for quality red meat. Served on wooden boards by staff in butchers aprons, the steaks

New Polish cuisine is an exellent polish product and inspiration both polish culinary tradition and wide world cuisines.

Kuchnia Funkcjonalna unites together exellent taste and nutritional and functional values of dishes. tel: 521-893-898 adres: Kuchnia Funkcjonalna, ul. Jakubowska 16 www.kuchniafunkcjonalna.pl

are beyond reproach and the wine list suited to the meat fest in front. Many hail this as Poland’s best steak, and you can definitely see where they’re coming from. $$ Downtown Restaurant (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental Hotel, level 2), tel. 22 328 8745, open Mon-Fri for Breakfast 6:30-10:00; Sat 6:30-11:00, 12:00-15:00, 18:00-23:00; Sat 12:0016:00, Sunday Brunch 12:30-16:00, dinner 18:00-23:00 There’s now a few candidates for Warsaw’s best steak, and Downtown have certainly upped the erm, stakes, with their new menu. Yes, the doors of Downtown are a gateway to heaven – particularly true if, like us, your vision of heaven is a rich green field filled with fat, juicy cows. But don’t for one moment assume the offer ends with cows. Now added to their menu are other animalitos like kangaroo. $$$ Hoża (D5) ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 603 778 275, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, hoza.warszawa.pl Wine and steak: it sounds so simple, but Hoża have taken two simple pleasures to another level. It’s a vibrant space with service right out of charm school, and a kitchen team with a real knowledge of cows. A red-blooded affair, the menu is a steak sensation and well paired with a handpicked wine list. $$ Merliniego 5 (E10) ul. Merliniego 5, tel. 22 646 0810, www. merliniego5.pl A classic looking steakhouse that swirls in shadow, brickwork and elegant touches, it’s a place to immerse yourself in an atmosphere that’s all surreptitious conversation and distant clinking glasses.

The steaks are out-of-this world, with USDA prime beef from New York’s legendary Ottomanelli & Sons and Scottish beef from London’s Smithfield Market. On our last visit we splurged on the Grade 9+ wagyu ‘kobe’ rib-eye and found ourselves eating the steak of a lifetime. Simply amazing. $$$

Salto (C6) ul. Wilcza 73, tel.

22 584 8771, www. saltorestauracja.pl When Martin Gimenez Castro scooped top prize in the Top Chef program it simply confirmed what foodies had known for years: that this is a man of some talent. Now leading the kitchen in Salto, the highlight of Castro’s menu

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is undoubtedly the ‘steak weekends’. We challenge you to find better. During the week opt instead for his South American inspired dishes. Salto has the hallmarks of a success story, and under Castro’s captaincy that’s a certainty to happen. $$$

thai Basil & Lime (E8) ul. Puławska 27, tel. 22 126 1943, open 11:00-23:00, www.basil-lime.pl Reports have been hit and miss, with one Insider noting calamitous service and food that was both over and undercooked. Not on our visit, though. Short and to the point, the menu is defined by its clarity, and we enjoyed a phenomenal yellow curry and banana fritters with the right combo of crunch and goo.

Beautifully decorated with charcoal colors and punches of lime, the Insider felt good long after visiting. Will you? $$ my’o’tai ul. Szpitalna 8 (enter on Górskiego), tel.

662 742 901, open Mon-Thu 12:00-24:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-3:00, Sun 12:00-21:00 While the menu lacks standard Thai dishes (no noodles!?), the tastes are thoroughly authentic and a credit to chef Trisno Hamidis. The caramelized spicy chicken wings are so good you’ll think about ordering them twice. $$ Naam Thai ul. Saska 16, tel. 505 110 100, open Mon 16:00-23:00; Tue-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-21:30 An anonymous design and out-of-town location never stopped guests flocking here. But that stands to change after the departure of chef Chanunkan Duangkumma. What was Warsaw’s best Thai now finds itself facing the biggest challenge of its existence – we’ll be back soon to see how they’ve faired. $$ Suparom Thai (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 45/49, tel. 22 627 1888, open daily 11:00-23:00, www.suparomthaifood.pl Lovely interior with Siamese gold ornaments and gleaming dark wood. The shrimp cakes are always worth a try. $$ Suparom Thaifood II al. Wilanowska 309, tel. 22 853 3087, open 10:00-21:00, www.suparomthaifood. pl Tiny, when compared to its parent on Marszałkowska, and distinctly unassuming.

Suparom’s green curry is the ‘best in the

listings / restaurants world’ according to one reader, and while such a superlative begs for a challenge, none is forthcoming – not from us, anyhow. $$

visiting for the full lowdown next issue (yes, yes, we promised that last time) and can just about contain the excitement.

Thai Thai (C2) Pl. Teatralny 3, tel. 601 818 283, open 12:00-23:00, www.thaithai.pl In terms of design it’s little short of perfect: gold vaulted interiors lend a muted glow to a largely black on black space while serene looking Buddha’s peer on the diners below.

As for the food, that’s one big success story – see p. 34 for the full review. $$

Why Thai (E5) ul. Wiejska 13, tel. 22 625 7698, open Sun-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00, www.whythai.pl A fresh attractive look, an authentic chef and a menu that doesn’t waffle on for pages and pages. But there’s something missing here, with the flavors not quite hitting the notes one expects. $$

Thaisty (C2) pl. Bankowy 4, tel.

730 000 024, thaisty. pl The coup here has been the recruitment of Chanunkan Duangkumma, Warsaw’s favorite Thai chef. Previews suggest a contemporary space in line with city trends, and a menu built around recipes passed down Duangkumma’s family line. Opened in mid-May, reports that have filtered back suggest this could well emerge as a local great. We’re

fashion statements and eccentric hair. $

whole foods

Lokal Vegan Bistro (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, 517 615 122, open TueSun 12:00-21:00 The interior looks a little like a New Age milk bar, the kind that’s left the design down to IKEA, but looking at the above-counter menu you soon realize there’s more to this place than meets the eye. While you can’t say the food is ‘meat imitation’ the schabowy is a whole lot better than some of the chops we’ve had in our time. And then there’s the kebab, seasoned with seitan, that goes some way to proving fast food doesn’t need to be junk food. $

Krowarzywa (D5) ul. Hoża 42, tel. 516 894 767, open Sun-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00 Even committed meat eaters concede there’s something special here. This is a burger bar with a difference: the stuff between the bun is vegan – and way superior to the majority of ‘proper’ burger bars. Very popular with the local hipsters, so anticipate bewildering

Loving Hut (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 41A, tel. 888 555 568, open Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00; Sun 12:00-20:00 What looks like just another Vietnamese greasy spoon is, in fact, part of a global chain backed by a spiritual master. The reading material is creepy and cultish, but the vegan food is good if you’re that way inclined. Now also found downtown on Waryńskiego 3. $

Slow food and a slow life philosophy inside an urban interior and a luxury wine and spirits list. Our kitchen uses only high quality regional and ecological produce. tel. 22 623 02 90, www.dwietrzecie.waw.pl

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cafes & wine bars NEW & NOTEWORTHY

CUPCAKE CORNER (Pl. Konstytucji 2, cupcakecorner.pl) Having made their name in Kraków, the American-inspired Cupcake Corner arrive in Warsaw ready to go head-to-head with cupcake giants La Vanille. Creations here include chocolate chip cookie, peanut butter cup, and Oreo, with muffins and homemade ice cream (sweet carrot!) also available. ‘We bake happiness,’ they proclaim, and indeed they do.

bakeries Aromat (C4) ul. Sienna 39, tel. 22 620 0819, open Mon-Fri 7:00-19:00; Sat 8:00-16:00 We’re told the interiors were purposefully kept neutral to keep the focus on the product – and crikey, what bread. French flour and an expert baker ensure brilliant results, while the lemon éclairs deserve their own Facebook page. Some claim it’s the best bakery in Poland, and we’re not arguing.

Café Vincent (D3) ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. 22 828 0115, open Sun-Thu 6:30-24:00; Fri-Sat 6:30-1:00 Ex-pats from France, a nation of master bakers if ever there were, profess Vincent to be their favorite Warsaw bakery. And they’re not alone. Queues build quickly as locals line up to buy baguettes, cinnamon rolls, lemon croissants and beautiful pains au chocolat.

But people don’t just head in then out, a small wine list and brilliant people spying opportunities cause most to linger.

Petit Appetit (E6) ul. Mokotowska 45, open Mon-Sat 8:00-19:00; Sun 8:00-18:00 The smell of freshly-baked loaves often wafts into the street, leaving passers-by with no option but to peer in – sweet temptation. And sweet is the right word: aside from divine baguettes check the pastries and brioches.

cafés

FABRYKA LODÓW TRADYCJNYCH (ul. Tamka 31 & ul. Marszałkowska 85, fabrykalodowtradycyjnych. pl) Ice cream season is on us, and as we learnt last summer, Warsaw has moved beyond the strawberry and vanilla stage. Now it’s all about blueberry or chocolate and chili. Find both of the aforementioned in Fabryka, a parlor that prides itself on its natural ingredients and daily changing offer.

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Bułkę przez Bibułkę (E8) ul. Puławska 24, tel. 794 000 634, open Mon-Fri 8:00-22:00; Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-16:00, www.bulkeprzezbibulke.pl There’s a feminine style to this cafe, what with its cute, girly pastels, petite plant pots and woodsy finishes. But no matter what your gender or age, there’s something immediately sunny and positive about this place. Slow food sandwiches arrive on wooden boards, there’s pretty homemade desserts and a careful choice of wine: falling in love with it is easy.

listings / cafés & wine bars Być Może (E7) ul. Bagatela 14, tel. 519 000 014, open 7:0023:00, www.bycmoze.com.pl It’s all about artisan bread and breakfast in the industrial looking Być Może. It’s taken the concept of Charlotte (groan, there’s even a communal table), and improved it with excellent breads and a crowd that’s a little less pleased with itself and a little more normal.

Chłodna 25 (B3) ul. Chłodna 25, tel. 604 614 287, open MonFri 9:00-22:00; Sat 11:00-22:00; Sun 12:0022:00 It’s back! Under new management, this Warsaw legend has been reclaimed from the hipsters and given over to the creative classes. A place of creaking floorboards, retro armchairs and bookshelves in the process of being filled, that this neighborhood hangout draws more than just neighbors is evidence of its greatness. And the really good bit?

They’ve now got beer (Bojan, Lwówek and Goralskie) – let joy be unconfined!

Chmiel Café (D4) ul. Chmielna 27/31, open chmielcafe.pl Rows and rows of Belgian beers occupy the shelves, while behind the counter find pedigree treats, cakes and ice cream from the Slow Food approved Consonni brand. Forget the industrial rubbish, the ice cream produced by this lot is an absolute standout. With the outdoor terrace making its debut, it’s the ideal family solution with something for everyone.

Christian’s Bakerhouse (E5) ul. Książęca 6, tel. 22 628 6345, open daily 9:00-21:00, www.bakerhouse.pl “Our chef places great emphasis on quality,” confided our waitress, and that’s no word of a lie. Numerous national breakfasts are represented, from nutritious kick-starters to a full British fry-up – which we’ve yet to see bettered by anywhere in Warsaw. The pet project of celebrity chef Krystian Zalejski – and not some nutty religious order as the name might suggest – the offer extends beyond breakfast to good Italian staples cooked with a twist.

Cophi (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 513 422 908, open 7:30-20:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-17:00 Deviating away from ‘the Warsaw look’ (i.e. concrete, pipes, etc.), Cophi is the kind of place you actually want to stay in: homey and intimate but at the same time light and modern. You

can sense the thought and passion behind this operation from the staff – find them using Aeropress, Chemex, siphon and drip methods with almost scientific precision in their quest to serve you what some are already claiming to be Warsaw’s best coffee.

Crepe Café (E3) ul. Dobra 19, tel. 22 121 2275, open 8:0020:00 Is there such a thing as the perfect pancake? If not, then Crepe Café certainly comes close. Enjoy them in a contemporary interior that’s tiny in size: grab a seat up on the mezzanine level.

Limoni Canteri 1952 (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1, tel. 789 176 730, open daily 8:00-22:00. Also at ul. Zwycięzców 49, tel. 518 652 436, open daily 10:0022:00 Appearing as a wooden cabin in an overgrown park (someone, clear it up please), Limoni get noted for Italian gelato that’s too good for words – join the line for tastes like cherry, plum and redcurrant, or go edgy and experimental with flavors such as salmon, tomato or basil.

Magiel Café (F8) ul. Stępińska 2, tel. 22 841 0016, open

Cukiernia Stary Dom ul. Puławska 104/106, tel. 22 646 4208, open 12:00-23:30, restauracjastarydom.pl A beautifully elegant confectionary that evokes memories of Old Poland. Flock wallpaper and checkered floors add to the high tea ambience, as do the lines of glinting bottles and a counter stocked with temptations. Pastry chef Mariusz Palarczykow is a king in his field.

Fawory ul. Mickiewicza 21, tel. 791 096 725, open Mon-Thur 8:00-22:00; Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 10:00-22:00 An intimate neighborhood cafe that comes complete with mugs that announce: “Fresh Coffee Tastes Better”. You bet it does. The smoothies and regional beers are just as good though, and come served inside a white interior splashed with an awesome mural.

Kafka Café (E3) ul. Oboźna 3, tel. 22 826 0822, open 9:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00, www. kawiarnia-kafka.pl A chessboard floor and a collection of antlers on the wall characterize Kafka, a bookstore / café whose literary collection is composed of paperbacks rescued from recycling plants. Books are purchased by their weight (zł. 10 per kilo) while the menu includes pancakes, pastas and even doggy treats for your mutt.

French Bistro Cafe Bakery Nowy Świat 27 Phone: 22 826 44 61 www.petitappetit.pl

Krucza 23 Café & Bakery ul. Krucza 23, open Mon-Fri 7:30-20:00; SatSun 10:00-20:00 They didn’t spend much time thinking about the name, that’s a given, but that’s not to say creativity is entirely absent. There’s lots of organic activity on the menu, plus an exciting spread of eco-coffee from far-flung nations. Find all this done in a post-industrial interior that makes use of lots of concrete and natural light. www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / cafés & wine bars Tue-Thu 12:00-22:30; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 10:30-17:00, www.magielcafe.pl Situated in a former laundrette, sweet looking Magiel comes crowded with rusting mangles and vintage posters advertising soaps and powders. Featuring some delicious homemade meals inspired by both the Polish and Mediterranean spirit, this place also gets noted for esoteric Polish beers, as well as a series of French wines sourced from private vineyards.

Między Nami (D4) ul. Bracka 20, tel. 22 828 5417, open Mon-Wed 10:00-23:00; Thu 10:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun14:00-23:00, www. miedzynamicafe.com With 18 years of service under their belt you may think of Między Nami as being an antiquated has-been.

Not so. Haunted by a mix of media types and local characters, this hip white piece of post-commie Warsaw has an enduring, almost timeless appeal.

Ministerstwo Kawy (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 27/35, tel. 503 080 906, open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:0022:00, www.ministerstwokawy.pl Sourcing their coffee from Koppi, an internationally acclaimed Swedish roasting house, the ministry takes no short cuts in their pursuit of excellence. Utilizing Ethiopian, Costa Rican and Brazilian arabicas – some exclusive to Poland – barista Wojciech Rzytki has earned a reputation across Poland for his expert hand. Rave reviews are standard and appropriate in this standout cafe.

BEST WAWA 2014 “Coffee” MiTo (D6) ul. Waryńskiego 28, tel. 22 629 0815, open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-23:00, www.mito.art.pl Café, gallery, bookstore.

Of course, we’ve seen that concept before, just not done in this style. Stark white backgrounds are offset by edgy art, lending the place a Tate Modern feel, something accentuated by the earnest fashion students who gather through the day. And there’s the toilet, a futuristic affair with piped music and a mirrored wall.

Niezłe Ziółko Café & Deli (D5) ul. Krucza 17, tel. 664 844 439, open MonFri 8:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-19:00 A shrine to pure and healthy eating, this friendly café doesn’t just brew a great coffee, but bakes its own bread and produces its own yogurt. Sit in the loft to look down on shoppers scurrying

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to Mokotowska, and on the way out, check out ‘Grandma’s Cupboard’ in the corner: jams, spreads and olive oils are there to buy for home.

ing with books and raggedy furniture, it’s a place in which to order an eco-tea, maybe a slice of cake, open Chapter 12 and then let hours slip away.

Odette ul. Górskiego 6/07, open Tue-Sun 10:0020:00; Mon 13:00-20:00, odette.pl Almost holistic in its ambience, the obstacle-free interior utilizes aspects of space and light, causing attention to naturally fall on the long, sleek counter that occupies one end. It’s here that Piotr Chylarecki’s sweet creations glimmer behind glass like precious little gems. Constructed in the adjoining ‘food lab’, these are desserts fit to grace fine dining moments.

WakeCup Café (C1) ul. Franciszkańska 14, tel. 503 113 240, open Mon-Fri 7:00-21:00; Sat-Sun 8:00-21:00, wakecupcafe.pl A superb discovery landed in the no-man’s land that straddles New Town and Muranów. WakeCup don’t believe in taking coffee shortcuts (recommended: raspberry frappe), and have a fiendish obsession with beans from Brazil.

Also notable and noteworthy for their fruity cocktails, pastries and energetic café buzz.

Państwo Miasto (B1) ul. Andersa 29, tel. 22 400 9446, open 9:00-24:00, panstwomiasto.pl Is there anything better than sitting in a café, book in hand, while spring sunshine pours through the windows? We go to Państwo to do just that, an echoy, cavernous café with a young, lively crowd that’s keen on scholastic events and political causes. Never does it feel too trendy, or too hipster – it’s a place that’s all about atmosphere and friendship.

Relaks (E9) ul. Puławska 48, open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00; Sat 9:00-19:00; Sun 9:00-18:00 Generally travelling by tram for a cup of Joe sounds excessive, but that’s exactly what you’ll be doing on discovering Relaks. Expertly prepared, right down to the foam art, the baristas here use the finest imported machines and work only with fair trade, ‘specialty’ coffee. If you have time, the drip coffees are more than worth the wait. The interiors supply a retro accent, and are lapped up by a very fashion aware crowd.

Stor ul. Tamka 33, open Mon-Fri 7:30-21:30; Sat-Sun 8:30-19:00 Small but perfectly formed, Stor has all the clack and clatter of a busy local café. Regional beers, Chemex and Aeropress coffee and gluten-free snacks and sandwiches provide plenty of reason to pop in and idle about.

Tarabuk ul. Browarna 4, tel. 22 827 0814, open 10:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-22:00, tarabuk. pl “I come here to escape Warsaw,” confides one Insider. And yeah, there’s a quality to Tarabuk that allows one to do just that. Heav-

Wars i Sawa (E3) ul. Dobra 14/16, tel. 796 880 822 or 793 567 125. open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-21:00 Creaking floorboards, unfinished plastering and piles of books set the tone to this ‘culture café’.

It’s exactly what you’d expect of Powiśle, and the sort of stop best enjoyed on your own with a pot of tea, a dog-eared novel and your tightest skinny jeans.

Znak Zapytania (E9) ul. Puławska 42, open Mon-Fri 11:00-1:00; Sat 16:00-2:00 Zap is the kind of place you wished you had next door: lively, a little hidden and carefully decorated: bricks walls, contemporary sofas and zippy graphics.

Drinks include the botanical tastes of Fentimans, homemade lemonades and artisan beers, and to go with those there’s a daily menu big on seasonal produce.

ice cream Budka z Lodami (H4) ul. Francuska 30 This innocuous wooden cabin has become a summer staple for Sunday Saska strollers. Natural ingredients and creative flavor combinations have installed it as a legend. Just brilliant.

La Maison (B3) ul. Chłodna 15 The flavors aren’t the most experimental found in Warsaw, but we’ve yet to find a better strawberry ice cream in the city: it’s stuff that makes you go ‘wow’.

Limoni Canteri 1952 (E9) various locations, inc. Dąbrowskiego 1 An artisan Italian gelato stop. The Venetian-born owner thrives on experimentation, with

listings / cafés & wine bars traditional flavors matched by the inclusion of oddities such as cucumber, beer and, even, ice cream for your dog!

Lody Prawdziwe (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 22 While the original on Świętokrzyska 30 is still alive, expect their new location to be the one that gets the crowds – big crowds. Priding themselves on the provenance of their ingredients, past picks from this artisan producer include Colombian coffee, Oreo and Madagascan vanilla. Others still swoon over their cherry choice.

Malinova (D9) Al. Niepodłegości 130 Some argue this is the best ice cream in the city, it’s certainly one of the most famous. Opened in 2001 – vintage

by Warsaw standards – there’s an old-school feel to this cult classic.

wine bars Ale Wino! (E5) ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 628 3830, open Mon-Tue 10:00-22:00; Wed-Sat 10:00-24:00, www.alewino.pl At first you think you’re walking into a car park. And then, it hits you – a beautiful inner-city sanctum with wooden decking, a slanted sail shielding the sun, and bespoke, funky chairs from the esteemed Studio Rygalik. You want to dwell here for a bit longer than planned: and there’s no harm in doing so. One of the Insider’s favorite wine bars, Ale Wino’s food is also top-notch. BEST WAWA 2014 “Wine Bar” Bristol Wine Bar (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmiescie 42/44. open 12:00-23:00 Effortlessly evoking a real sense of history, the design is a triumph with lots of polished brass and nickel, rich wood finishes and marble floors. You feel like you’ve stepped into a film. But talking points aren’t limited to the interiors alone.

The wine selection was personally overseen

by Robert Mielżyński, possibly the most esteemed wine importer in the country. And the choice is prodigious. Offering a complete cruise through the wines of the Old Continent and the New World, the collection is precisely presented from behind glass cases that line the walls.

Hoża (D5) ul. Hoża 25a, tel. 515 037 001, open Mon-

Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, www.hoza.warszawa.pl You’ll probably know Hoża as the home of steak. But what is meat without wine? Complimenting the Argentine-inspired cooking is a wine list particularly dense with reds.

Heritage (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17, tel. 22 857 0912, open Mon-Sat 8:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-20:00 The gentrification of Zbawiciela continues with the appearance of Heritage, a place of tap wines, cobbled floors, and simple, well-thought interiors. With its crates, boxes, cans and tins, Heritage fill a binary role as a deli/wine store for an ascendant new money crowd.

Mielżyński Wine Bar (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 636 8709, open Mon-Fri 9:00-23:00; Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 11:30-17:00, www.mielzynski.pl Robert Mielżyński, a Canadian-born oenologist, awakened Warsaw’s love affair with the grape when he launched Mielżyński in 2004, and it continues to serve as the accepted benchmark to which all wine bars aspire. Their cause is amply boosted by a fine selection of bites to accompany the superlative wine offer. Find it in a pared down warehouse that emanates casual city cool.

Mielżyński Wine Bar (G9) ul. Czerska 12, www.mielzynski.pl After three years in the pipeline Warsaw’s second

outpost of Mielżyński is everything you’d expect: a concise menu that’s never too complex and an exciting wine choice that presents over 500 labels. This vibrant space promises much, not least on account of an inner terrace deck that you know is going to be the talk of this summer.

Portucale (E10) ul. Merliniego 2, tel. 22 898 0925, open 11:00-23:00, www.portucale.pl The rule here is to keep it simple. Stick to the truly amazing seafood and good house wine, both of which promise a terrific Portuguese experience. $$ Wejman ul. Zgoda 4, tel. 661 661 150, open 12:0024:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-2:00, wejmanwinebar. pl The owners cooperated closely with acclaimed importer Guillaume Deliancourt to assemble a stock list dominated by Southern European – especially French – and New World wine. Try before you buy at this hotly trending wine bar.

WinKolekcja (E10) ul. Olkuska 7, tel. 22 542 8031, open MonSat 12.00-23.00; Sun 12.00-20.00, www. winkolekcja.pl The selection of New World wines is exceptional, though classicists are also catered for via an extensive choice of Spanish, French and Italian wines. Their highly recommended restaurant provides further reason to linger inside a design that has the routine look of a club class lounge.

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Cophi Cafe Phi Co ˙ 58/60 ulica Hoza Warsaw Co Coffee

Phi Solutions

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nightlife NEW & NOTABLE

HOPPINESS (ul. Chmielna 27/31) Cult brewers Pracownia Piwa are behind Hoppiness, and as such expect six taps dedicated to the home team.

Another six, we’re told, will dispense the works of their Polish friends and international movers. There’s yet to be a tap bar that’s truly nailed the food angle, but that might change here – we’re promised a menu designed by none other than Marcin Jabłonski, a chef whose big on natural, regional ingredients. Intrigued? So are we. Due to open as we went to press, it’s the first place we’re visiting come June!

bars & pubs 6 Cocktails (E5) ul. Mokotowska 57 Taking its lead from the New York fad for covert bars, the 6 adventure begins in front of a heavy arched gate. Ring the bell, await the buzz of approval and then find yourself summoned into rambling apartment that feels sultry and sensual. Complete with a shadowy smoking lounge and a whirlpool tub in the bathroom, it’s the best secret in Warsaw.

To enjoy the bespoke cocktails yourself, message them on Facebook and await your invite…

Bar Wieczorny ul. Wiśniowa 46, open Tue-Thu 16:0022:00; Fri 16:00-23:00; Sat 18:00-23:00, barwieczorny.pl Preparing for their first summer, it’s going to be one helluva’ place to visit once the weather heats up: that garden is going to get naughty!

The cocktails are serious here, with top quality spirits (Vestal, Baczewski, Woodford Reserve) used with equally big name mixes (Fentimans, Big Tom, etc.). Further, you’ll find it’s the right products in the right hands – the staff really know their game.

Beirut (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, open daily 12:00-4:00, www.beirut.com.pl As hip as ever, Beirut has walls dusted with cult album covers, documentary posters and witty graffiti inspired by Banksy. Busy in the day, and absolutely packed at night, order unconventional beers (Noteckie, English ale, Erdinger) from androgynous staff standing behind a sandbag bar decorated with silver hand grenades and a model tank.

JABEERWOCKY (ul. Nowogrodzka 12, taproom.pl) “We don’t want to be just another tap bar,” says manager Marcin Chmielarz, “we want to the best tap bar.” Aiding Jabeerwocky’s mission is a beaut of a design: restored 100-year-old floor tiles, and the kind of rugged bricks and plaster look that works so well in a boozy, beery environment. Live sports, hot dogs, and an exciting rotation of beer could see Jabeerwocky becoming a very familiar name over the next few months. More next issue…

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Berlin-Warszawa Express (D5) Most Poniatowskiego (corner of Kruczkowskiego and al. 3 Maja), open 18:00-1:00; Fri-Sat 18:00-3:00 Set up a flight of stairs, a concrete footbridge at the top links the two bars either side: Berlin and Warszawa. It’s a Matrix moment, the red pill or the blue? Berlin’s the better, with industrial cage lights, and salvaged DDR memorabilia. Surveying the scene, it’s all wobbly tables, sticky surfaces and tight little alcoves fitted into impossible spaces.

A great dive bar, the friendly nature of Berlin

listings / nightlife gets even friendlier after a few craft brews.

Bollywood Lounge (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, tel. 22 827 0283, open Sun-Thu 12:00-3:00; Fri 12:00-6:00; Sat 14:00-6:00, www.bollywoodlounge.pl Now on Nowy Świat, the team have used the opportunity to upgrade their offer: gone is that low-rent feel of old, replaced in favor of a more classy look and a slicker crowd.

What has remained constant is the energy.

Ace cocktails (recommended: Jim Ban Chili), tottering talent and a range of sheesha pipes make it a weekend must, though the big news is the completion of their downstairs club: check it out for the bright, banging beats of the Bollywood sound.

Bubbles (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 512 540 913, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:0024:00; Sun 12:00-18:00, bubbles.com. pl Despite sounding like a 90s small town nightclub, Bubbles is in fact a worthy place of note: a small, warm venue with a slow food menu and a design that incorporates lots of upturned crates and dusty bottles.

Champagne is the main draw here, with many labels that are exclusive to Poland. Some come with terrifying prices, but on the whole the price points are widely accessible: wine from zł. 10 and a flute of champers from zł. 29.

Cafe Kulturalna (C4) Palace of Culture, pl. Defilad 1, tel. 22 656 6281, open Mon-Sat 12:00-last guest; Sun 15:00-last guest, www.kulturalna.pl The location is unbeatable and visiting the Palace late at night is an amazing, almost mystical experience.

Ceska ul. Chmielna 35, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, ceska.pl The place itself looks formulaic with lots of wood and glinting copper tanks, but the beer is the business. That includes a grand milk pour, a beer that’s all creamy froth that you can sink down in seconds. But that’s part of the problem. You’re likely to be drinking so much of it that the staff can’t keep up.

With table service only you’re in the hands of these foot-soldiers, and here they’re the most hapless individuals you’re liable to find.

Chmielarnia (B5) ul. Twarda 42 (basement level), tel. 22 890 77 05, open Mon-Thu 11:00-24:00;

Fri 11:00-2:00; Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 12:0024:00, www.chmielarnia.waw.pl A subterranean multi-tap found in the depths of the fishing institute. Artisan beers rule the roost here (there’s 15 taps and stacks more beer in the fridge), a point underlined by a glass coffin of mainstream garbage. While the bar gets loud and rackety, sweaty and sticky, that’s balanced out by a rotating beer offer that’s moderately priced plus a friendly, earnest audience that’s all beer geeks and know-it-alls.

Chmielarnia Marszałkowska (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16, open Mon-Thu 11:00-24:00; Fri 11:00-2:00; Sat 12:002:00; Sun 12:00-24:00, chmielarnia.waw. pl With the tap war at its height, Chmielarnia hope to raise the stakes with their latest venture. Twelve taps and umpteen bottles comprise the offer, with a range of domestic and international players represented: among them Beavertown, Hoppin’ Frog and Fourpure. Less nerdy than their original, expect the latest Chmielarnia to hoover up bearded custom from nearby pl. Zbawiciela.

Column Bar ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44 (Hotel Bristol), open 10:00-1:00 Just the look of Column Bar sweeps you off your feet; there’s something breathlessly classy about it, like you’ve just entered Gatsby’s ballroom. You want to order a pyramid of champagne and dance on their piano. Behave, and order a cocktail instead. For a taste of the classics, the Column Bar is peerless. In summer, enjoy your drinks out in the beautifully tranquil courtyard.

Cuda Na Kiju (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, tel. 662 006 106, open 10:00-2:00, www.cudanakiju.pl Warsaw’s multi-tap revolution started here!

This sleek space comes drenched in sunlight that slants through the four glass walls, while the shaded courtyard is frequently utilized for various one off events and food truck meets. Find 15 taps dispensing regional and craft brews as well as quirky imports from Czech, Belgium and beyond.

Cześć (C3) ul. Grzybowska 2 (through the side passage), tel. 505 695 512, open 16:00-last guest,2 www.czesc.waw.pl It started as a café, but now Cześć is better known as being at the forefront of the new generation of

‘quali-tap’ bars – small little places with six or so new wave beers on tap. The two owners, Piot and Kuba, take their beer seriously, so do expect plenty of new finds as well as traditional favorites from stalwarts like the Artezan and Pinta breweries. The laidback, neighborhood atmosphere is making it increasingly popular with a tight-knit circle of ex-pat drinkers.

Czeska Baszta (E4) Tower 22A, Most Poniatowskiego, open Tue-Thu, Sun 16:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 16:00-24:00; Sun 16:00-23:00, www. czeskabaszta.pl Set in one of those towers that props up Most Poniatowskiego, its surroundings look grim – at night even scary.

Bathed in a yellowish murk, it’s actually warm and welcoming, and the reason for that soon becomes apparent: everyone is drunk!

There’s 80 Czech beers to pick from, and they do more than enough to distract from the rattle and rumble of overhead trams and a swamp monster toilet.

Dandys Bar & Art Kafe (D6) ul. Piękna 15, tel. 883 588 388, open Tue-Thu 15:00-1:00; Fri-Sat 15:00-2:00; Sun 15:00-24:00, dandysbar.pl Warsaw’s gossip machine has gone into meltdown and here’s the reason. The most talked about venue of the month, Dandys looks set to take the city by storm with their effortless class and original cocktails. We’ll be back with an in-depth look next month.

Elephant Belgian Pub (C1) ul. Freta 19, tel. 532 742 400, open Mon-Thu 14:00-23:00; Fri-Sun 12:00-23:00 Signposted by a jolly, dancing elephant, this Belgian pub presents its cause the moment you enter – there’s twenty or so taps laid right out in front, and to the left a fridge that’s expected to top out to cover 200 beers. The design is basic – brickwork, beer kegs and varying ephemera of the brewing trade – but it doesn’t need that much more: it’s about the beer, after all.

Gorączka Złota (D5) ul. Wilcza 29, tel. 22 625 6855, open Mon-Fri 13:00-24:00; Sat 17:00-24:00, www.goraczka-zlota.com.pl Founded in 1996, Złota’s longevity is to be admired, even if the interiors aren’t. Small, dark and a little pungent, the interiors are rendered out of little more than varnished wood and hundreds of beer coasters. But that’s the www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / nightlife clue! The secret of their success is down to the beer. Stocking a range of regional and craft beer (Ale Browar, Pinta, Kormoran, AltenMunster, Olbracht, etc.), this unfashionable bar has an underlying honesty that makes it a success.

Hard Rock Cafe ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, open daily 9:00-24:00, hardrockcafe.pl Full Throttle cocktails, lively staff and a classic rock soundtrack: the energy of HRC is hard to find fault with. And on the rare occasion there is a lull in the night, use the opportunity to sniff around memorabilia that includes a black leather number once worn by Madonna.

Hopsters Al. Jana Pawła II 45 (enter from ul.

Nowolipki), open Mon-Thu 15:00-24:00; Fri 15:00-2:00; Sat 13:00-2:00; Sun 13:00-22:00 You get the idea they could have done a bit more with the interior, though the tendency is to overlook this. After all, any bar that goes to the trouble of fitting twenty taps deserves a bit of leeway. And fine things they are, these taps of theirs. There’s usually a couple of foreign guests on the day-to-day menu (Mikeller, Lindemans), but the main draw is undoubtedly from domestic brew houses like AleBrowar and Artezan, not to mention rising stars such as Doctor Brew and Podgórz.

Jedna Trzecia ul. Wilcza 52, tel 605 589 588, open Mon-

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Thu 16:00-24:00; Fri 16:00-2:00; Sat-Sun 14:00-24:00 Unbeknown to some publicans, craft beer is not a numbers game – it’s not about how many taps you have, it’s about what comes out of them. This lot understood that from the start. Quality control is stringent, yet aside from pouring the perfect pint (every time), Jedna Trzecia have a choice that reflects the latest developments on the global craft scene: rare find international brews are a specialty and presented in an industrial, concrete space softened by it’s mustard lighting and laidback audience.

BEST WAWA 2014 “Craft Beer Bar” Kameralna (E4) ul. Foksal 11, tel. 887 878 731, open 12:00-24:00 With a militia truck outside, and interiors that feature cutlery by Społem and 70s newspapers on the walls, you’d be right to think we’ve got another venue that celebrates the past. Looking vast and comfortingly cluttered, Kameralna is both a restaurant and a nightspot – brewing their own beer, the house lagers are fine.

Kita Koguta (E5) ul. Krucza 6/14, tel. 512 307 284, open Mon-Thu 8:00-24:00; Fri 8:00-2:00; Sat 16:00-2:00 Free from the pompous prattery of Bar Max down the road, there are times in Kita Koguta where sitting at bar level is like watching Dexter’s Laboratory: the staff aren’t afraid to get imaginative, and that includes serving cocktails in smoking coconut husks.

Not all the experiments go as planned,

but that’s part of the thrill – for a failsafe, order the Viterbo Breakfast: it looks like something that came out of a drainpipe, but it’s delicious!

Kraken Rum Bar (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, tel. 791 334 606, open daily 12:00-4:00 Named after one of the ocean’s most feared mythical creatures (the scary squid from Pirates of the Caribbean), the wood-clad Kraken features a wall of cymbals, heavy furniture and some interesting photography. While there’s some decent bottles of rum, there’s perhaps not enough to justify calling it a rum bar. The house beer rocks though.

Kufle i Kapsle (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 25, tel. 22 127 7218, open Mon-Thu 14:00-2:00; Fri 14:00-4:00; Sat 12:00-4:00; Sun 12:00-2:00, www. kufleikapsle.pl Ten tap and two pump beers offer a magnificent spread of daily changing beers, and the good news continues with the choice in the fridge: there’s 120 beers down there, so gamble on a rather jolly night. Interiors are balanced with the pre-war heritage of the building, and are already thick with noise, clamor and the welcome scent of beer and spillage.

Kwadrat (D5) ul. Poznańska 7, tel. 790 010 088, open Mon-Fri 16:00-last guest; Sat 18:00-last guest, www.kwadrat.waw.pl Nights get blurry in Kwadrat, one of the first bars in town to

listings / nightlife spread the gospel of regional and new wave beer. Enjoy it alongside an amiable, late 20s crowd.

Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri 11:0002:00; Sat 12:00-02:00, Sun 12:00-23:00, www.legendsbar.pl Celebrating their fourth anniversary this September just gone, Legends is slowly edging its way to legendary status amongst the ex-pats and Anglophiles.

It’s all helped by touches like a segregated smoking room, a proper darts board, Sky Sports and a traditional menu that’s as authentically English as the Downing Street cat. Most of all though, the success is down to the sense of community fostered over long quiz nights, shouty karaoke competitions and other such events. Presiding over it all is Graham, a seasoned expat and Everton nut.

Lolek (A8) ul. Rokitnicka 20 (Pole Mokotowskie), tel. 22 825 6202, open daily 11:00-03:00, www. lolekpub.pl A boisterous pub with a Bavarian, bacchanal spirit and a park-centered location. Strangers squish together on shaky benches while sausages grill over an open fire inside this classic rough-and-ready drinkery. Catch it at its best in summer when the outdoor seating is thronged.

Miłość Kredytowa 9 ul. Kredytowa 9, open 9:00-6:00 Firstly, there’s the bar. It’s stunning: concrete slabs, a vertical wall of greenery and a DJ platform that doubles as a kitchen on weekends.

The upstairs mezzanine is the best spot for voyeurs, and it’s here that a series of rooms unravel revealing a bookstore, deli and a lumbersexual barber shop. It is ultimately the bar that is the center force though, and it’s here you’ll find one-of-a-kind bottled cocktails that use natural ingredients, not to mention the full offer from Perła.

Na Lato (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44, tel. 692 280 094, open Mon 8:00-23:00; Tue-Thu 8:00-1:00; Fri 8:00-5:00; Sat 10:00-5:00; Sun 10:00-24:00 Once derided as a hipster haunt, the twits have moved on, replaced instead by an increasingly on-trend crowd of rich young things. The cocktails are without doubt up there with the best in Wa-wa and the onset of sunshine means you can enjoy them on the expanse of greenery directly outside.

Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’ (D4) Enter from ul. Nowy Świat 26 Approximately twenty bars occupy a series of low-budget prefabricated cabins, presenting possibly the highest density of bars in the capital: in summer, it feels like one big street party.

Adding to the gentle sense of confusion comes the realization that so many bars look the same – accessed through clattery, barred doors, visitors walk into what can only be described as murk. Klaps, with its dildo beer taps and phallic walls, is probably the most well-known of the lot.

Oleandrów 3 (D6) ul. Oleandrów 3, open Sun-Thu 12:00-24:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-1:00 Exploring themes of decadence and fallen splendor, this cements Oleandrów’s status as one of Warsaw’s rising streets. Looking dark and disheveled, this busy nightspot is already earning a name for libertine shenanigans. The blackboard menu touts an unlikely combo of ‘hot dogs and champagne’ – watch others follow suit.

Panorama Bar and Lounge (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 630 6306, open Mon-Sun 18:00-2:00, www.panoramabar.pl An elegant bar that would easily pass for the VIP room of a wellto-do club. A floor 40 location makes it great for a date: the sunset views are dazzling.

Parking Bar (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 27, tel. 501 623 456 or 537 606 897, open Sun-Thu 16:00-2:00; Fri-Sat 17:00-6:00, www.parkingbar.eu It looks raw and ready, but then what did you expect from a place on the ground floor of a car park.

Plentiful concrete, mesh fences and swinging car tire seats lend it unique characteristics, as do the drinks: the creative cocktails are served in small little jars. At times it feels a bit slow, but that changes on their weekend club nights.

Patera (C4) ul. Świętokrzyska 36, tel. 535 333 123, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00; Sun 11:00-23:00, www.patera.com.plPatera fill a binary role: first as an Asian eatery, and second as a cocktail bar. And my, what cocktails. Offering several classics, and a few modern creations, the Ginger Peach Collins became our cocktail of choice during summer 2014. The reopening of Świętokrzyska should lead a few more people through the door – they’ll like what they see.

Multitap Bla Bla ul. Nowogrodzka 22, open 14:00-2:00, blabla.com.pl Nowhere has ‘the tap takeover’ been more overt than on Nowogrodzka.

Joining the inner circle of craft beer bars is Bla Bla, a place of ten taps rotating Polish piwo – with the occasional international guest. The advantage Bla Bla holds over others are its cool curvy sofas and a pricing structure that allows people to buy half-pints at… half the price – out here, that’s not always been the given that it might otherwise sound.

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listings / nightlife Pies Czy Suka (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8A, tel. 22 881 83 73, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00; Sun 16:00-23:00, www.piesczysuka.com Monochrome gun metal grey colors are offset by a fashionable crowd attired in red shoes, pink trousers and blue headphones. This clean, concrete space is speckled with plaster moldings of reindeer heads, and excels on the cocktail front. Order from an iPad menu, before settling back for cocktails made using mad scientist, molecular techniques that involve foam, vapor, beakers and other things you’d usually find in Professor Yaffle’s lab.

hangover from this shabby, grubby bar is traumatic.

Pociąg do Piwa ul. Dereniowa 2, tel. 501 022 890, open 14:00-last guest Jumping onto the multi-tap bandwagon is Pociąg do Piwa, a smallish locale whose one design element is a steam engine traced into the wall using bottle tops.

There’s 12 taps in all, and they primarily distribute cult Polish beers from the likes of Pinta and AleBrowar.

Piw Paw (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34 (enter from ul.

Parkingowa), tel. 534 734 500, open 24 hrs Grandiosely declaring themselves to be Warsaw’s first ‘hyper tap’ bar, Piw Paw’s armory includes 57 tap beers, about ten tables and two toilets – do you see the problem? Designed more for carry-out custom, Piw Paw nonetheless packs out with punters often spilling outside creating an almost street party vibe.

Polonez (D5) ul. Poznańska 24, tel. 604 942 169, open Sun-Wed 10:00-1:00; Thu 10:00-2:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-3:00 Sparse milk bar chic is set against plenty of oddities (black and white Cybulski films, a set of antlers, hordes of junk), but the cool aesthetics only tell a part of the story. This is a celebration of Poland, both old and new, with drinks that include obscure nalewki, craft local beers, bio drinks and regional tipples. The masterstroke comes in making this all feel international, contemporary and creative.

Piw Paw na Foksal (E4) ul. Foksal 16, tel. 534 734 945, open 16:00-last guest, piwpaw.pl If the original Piw Paw was marketed as a ‘hyper tap’ then what’s their sister on Foksal? There’s 97 taps (!!) though one gets the sense its more about numbers than quality – we’ve seen Beck’s, for Pete’s sake. Getting service can be a nightmare, and while there’s a smoking room, it’s got the warmth and ambience of a night down the police station.

Przychodnia (D3) ul. Jasna 22, tel. 22 827 8356, open 12:00-24:00 Whoever thought theming a bar on a communist hospital deserves to be sectioned off to one. The interiors are fun (operating theater lights, surgical utensils and a row of toilets in the smoking room), but beyond the gimmickry it’s a place of conventional (bad) Polish beers and frosty staff – if that’s part of the theme we’d rather it weren’t.

Plac Barcelona (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 18, tel. 501 988 768, open Sun-Thu 9:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 9:00-1:00 Those who think this area’s star has waned need look no further than Plac Barcelona, a pristine bar with a star studded clientele. The interiors feature stark white colors and an interesting multi-level seating arrangement.

Most, however, prefer to give themselves maximum exposure and do both their sipping and sitting outdoors.

Same Krafty (D1) ul. Nowomiejska 10, tel. 22 831 98 75, open 15:00-last guest Set across two small, rugged rooms, Same Krafty gets populated by an organic combination of tourists, couples and beer enthusiasts. There’s ten taps from which to choose, and a fridge with several interesting international beers. The Old Town doesn’t have much to shout about when it comes to nightlife, so Same Krafty’s debut is more than welcome.

Plan B (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 508 316 976, open Mon-Sun 11:00-last guest. www.planb.pl Plan B is the very essence of dive Warsaw. Weekends pass by in a raucous blur, with the party spilling out under the colonnades outside – it helps to look like a DJ, but in truth everyone is welcome. The

Secado (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 66, tel. 608 707 799, open Mon-Fri 10:00-23:00; Sat 11:0024:00; Sun 12:00-23:00 Most part restaurant, bit part bar, there’s a flexibility here that has turned it into one of those places where people meet, eat and generally hangout – not always in that order. And as

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for the drinks, they’re really very good. Using their own mixes, Secado present a succinct list of must-try cocktails. Try their best seller: the Bloody Hell. Using Chopin vodka infused with horse radish, pirri pirri and basil, this pimped out version of the Bloody Mary incorporates chili syrup and wasabi in a high octane drink that kicks like a mule.

Sketch w Teatrze Wielkim (D2) Pl. Piłsudkiego 9, tel. 602 762 764, open 12:00-1:00, sketch.pl Here’s a multi tap bar designed with a very specific crowd in mind: glam stylists, models with sleeve tattoos and other vapid morons. Looking bold, bright and brash, this is just about the worst tap bar Warsaw has ever seen. The beer aspect is purely incidental. You get the idea this mob would be here if the pipes were hooked up to the udders of a cow – so long as milk was in fashion. Yuck.

Słoik (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 600 396 688, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri 11:00-24:00; Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, restauracjasloik.pl Słoik looks bright, loud and vibrant, so it’s no surprise to learn their cocktail maestros specialize in maverick creations. A source of particular pride are drinks that celebrate Poland: we’re talking about vodkas infused with juniper and vanilla, then mixed with marmalades and other exotica like pickled cucumber juice.

The tastes are unique and leave you bandylegged and shouting for more.

Spiskowcy Rozkoszy (D5) ul. Żurawia 47/49, tel. 796 671 950, open Mon-Thu 16:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 16:00-1:00; Sun 16:00-23:00, www.spiskowcy.pl The ground floor is an intimate space with lots of yet-to-be-famous beers and junky, antique furniture that reminds of the Boho hangouts in Kraków. But what was a packed, little bar is now a packed, big bar with the opening of the basement: find a labyrinth of rooms and psychedelic toilets with pulsating lights – you soon wonder who spiked your drink. And oh, the drinks. Expect IPA and APA beers served from the six taps.

Syzyszka Chmielu Al. KEN 36, open Mon-Thu 16:00-24:00; Fri 16:00-2:00; Sat 15:00-2:00; Sun 15:00-24:00, pubszyszkachmielu.pl The beer scene is Ursynów is seriously hopping up. First came Pociąg Do Piwa, then Vyceska, and now this tongue twister. The 14 taps

listings / nightlife offer largely safe local options, so head to the fridge for adventurous brews from the likes of Mikeller, AleSmith and Nogne O. In an added plus, this is just about the first tap bar that realizes that some people out there like football: it’s filled with slick screens beaming the big match.

Vyceska ul. Polinezyjska 10, open 13:00-23:00 As welcome as the craft revolution has been, there are times you just want a good honest pint: so how about this, a multi-tap whose focus zooms on all things Czech. There’s eight taps and a wealth of bottles to traipse through as well as a small menu of food designed to sustain protracted drinking sessions. All this in an interior that’s dark and slick but not short of character – all of a sudden moving out to Ursynów seems a rather smart idea.

W Oparach Absurdu ul. Ząbkowska 6, open Sun-Mon 12:002:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-4:00 Hidden under Persian rugs, velvety drapes and reclaimed antiques, some still refer to it as The Spider Bar in reference to the giant tarantula that once hung from the wall. There’s an air of louche 60s living here, and it gets weirder when bands with names like the Bum Bum Orchestra enter to play trumpets amongst vodka-tipping guests.

Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 621 8622, open Mon-Sun 12:00-last guest, www.warsawtortillafactory.pl Warsaw’s premier sports pub: and it’s not just the extent of their sporting offer that elevates WTF, but the atmosphere. Whether it’s international rugby, or Bristol City on a Tuesday night, the tension, camaraderie and horseplay are unmatched. On the occasions when there is no sport, swing by for live bands and a lively atmosphere fueled by a heady mix of ex-pats, international students, and locals bewildered by it all. The recent addition of boutique beverages such as Brew Dog and Thistly Cross has gone down a treat.

Warszawa Powiśle (E4) ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B, tel. 22 474 40 84, open Mon-Fri 11:00-last guest; Sat-Sun 9:00-last guest, www.warszawapowisle. pl The prime months for this former ticket-booth are in summer when the deck chairs outside provide ample opportunity for the city’s young to gather in an almost

carnival-like atmosphere. Seen as the hipster Center of Power, a collective bout of outrage saved them from council threatened closure last year.

Weles (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 11, tel. 602 773 997, open Sun-Thu 17:00-2:00; Fri-Sat 17:00-4:00 A swing of the door takes visitors plunging down a blacked-out stairwell and into a basement that emerges from the darkness like a decadent Tsarist relic: glinting chandeliers glimmer over deep leather sofas, their subtle light casting a glow over an immaculate clientele comprised of architects.

Befitting the venue, the artisanal cocktails are a work of elaborate craftsmanship, and incorporate everything from elite liquors to strips of bacon and flower petals.

Zamieszanie ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, open Thu-Sat 19:002:00 Cuda Na Kiju have built on last year’s success by adding this spot in the glass block next to their brew pub. Here though its cocktails that are the draw. While the pre-bottled drinks mean you have none of the ad-libbed artistry of other cocktails, they cut down waiting times. And yes, they are actually good.

clubs De Lite (E5) ul. Marii Konopnickiej 6, tel. 792 014 166, www.deliteclub.pl This place definitely figures highly in the ‘bubbles and beauties’ stakes. Scantily clad dates bop along sipping on martinis, flirting and dancing, while exposed brick and pipes, raw concrete and an interesting mirror setup in the bathrooms add to the futuristic, spaceship interior.

Enklawa (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 22 827 3151, open Wed-Sat 22:00-4:00, www.enklawa.com Forget internet dating, Enklawa is the best pick-up joint around – a classic kitschy, glitzy disco, it draws in huge crowds with a simple lineup of pop and dance hits. Still regarded as the best Wednesday night in Warsaw, it’s the place for singletons looking for a one night confidence boost.

Foksal XVIII (E4) ul. Foksal 18, open Fri-Sat 10:00-4:00 Billed as one of the top ‘rich and pretty’ clubs in the capital, Foksal features a competitive

‘look at me’ spirit and flash interiors that are all chandeliers and champagne. Cardboard animal shapes hanging from the bar inject much needed humor to this cream of the crop club. Don’t even think of trying to gain entry without first tipping a bottle of aftershave down your pants.

Luztro (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, open Wed-Thu 22:00-10:00; Fri-Sat 24:00-14:00, www. luztro.pl Feeling naughty? Luztro enjoys a reputation for libertine behavior and illicit pharmaceuticals. Dark, grim and grotty, this

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listings / nightlife after party stalwart gets going at about 4 a.m. on weekends, when troglodyte club creatures emerge zombie-like to dance way past sunrise. Jaw grinding, rib rattling electro has never felt better.

Platinium (D3) ul. Fredry 6, tel. 694 413 439, open Thu-Sat 21:00-6:00. www.platiniumclub.pl The place if you’re rich or beautiful – but preferably both. Large and spectacular you’ll need to be dressed to the nines to reap the rewards that lie inside: featuring the most eye candy per sq/m in Europe, you might not find Mr/Mrs Right, but you will find Mr/Mrs Right for Now. Sen Pszczoły ul. Grochowska 301/305, tel. 530 360 060, senpszczoly.pl Famous, infamous or a bit of both? Moving from their temporary digs in the Koneser Factory, the new-look Sen Pszczoły is every bit as murky as the previous: amid a heavy industrial background, find partygoers enjoying a mixed bag of events that range from didgeridoo performances to full-on techno that makes fillings pop out. Full review next month.

Space Club (A5) ul. Kolejowa 37/39, tel. 606 617 228, open Fri-Sat 23:00-6:00, www.club-space.eu A true techno club with crazy lights, a great sound system, big name DJs, and lots of room to waggle about and enjoy Ibiza flashbacks.

gentleman’s clubs Playhouse (B3) Al. Solidarności 82A, tel. 794 007 000, open 21:00-4:00, www.playhouse.pl Not here gorilla gangsters on the door or pushy girls doing the rounds (“buy me drinky drinky”).

Instead, Playhouse models itself on the top class mega clubs such as Spearmint Rhino, and the result is a subterranean space removed from the sleaze and murk usually associated with the industry. But you want to know what the girls are like, yeah? Let the fact askmen.com voted it their favorite strip in the world speak for itself.

Sofia (D6) ul. Polna 13, www.klubsofia.pl A.k.a The Bulgarian Embassy, Sofia have rebuilt the reputation earned during their city center heyday in the naughty noughties. Sure, the atmosphere is more restrained than in their former location, but the dancers aren’t.

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live music Bistro na Pięknej (D6) ul. Piękna 20, tel. 22 627 4151, open Mon-Fri 11:00-24:00; Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-23:00, www.jazzone.pl A slick looking jazz spot that’s seen the benefit of a recent overhaul. Valued additions include a less austere style and what at times might feel like Warsaw’s only fireplace. Popular with a smart city crowd, keep an eye out for their live acts.

Chwila (B3) ul. Ogrodowa 31/35, tel. 22 401 1754, open 12:00-last guest; Sun 15:00-last guest Entered under a red, cabaret-style awning, Chwila is a reject factory space turned good. Furry cushions, patchwork quilts and student art vie for attention alongside iron girders and industrial leftovers inside what is becoming known as one of the top alternative music venues this side of the river. The toilet alone, papered with trillions of cool posters and magazine covers, is a reason to linger.

Pardon To Tu (C4) Pl. Grzybowski 12/16, tel. 513 191 641, open 10:00-4:00, www.pardontotu.pl Decorated in voluptuous brothel colors, the design involves mismatched seats, tilted lampshades and a relaxed arthouse look popular with creatives and other fringe dwellers. The live talent ranges from moody quartets to jazzy chanteuses, while a perfect marriage of late hours and great bottled beers helps along the enthusiastic crowd of latter day beatniks.

park & beach Bars Cud nad Wisłą (E2) ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie, tel.

533 649 561, open 10:00-last guest, cudnadwisla.pl What summer drinking should be about. Deckchairs and cushions abound in this riverside spot, and it excels at night when twinkly lights reflect off the inky black waters. The live music does its bit to ensure it’s never a quiet night.

La Playa ul. Wybrzeże Helskie 1/5, www.laplaya.pl.

Mix-up surf inspired cocktails, lager in plastic glasses, a volleyball net, lounge chairs and some spontaneous samba, and you get the most unexpected beach party you’d ever

imagine. If you’re feeling particularly daring, go skinny dipping in the murky, muddy Wisła.

Plac Zabaw (F6) ul. Myśliwiecka 9 (Park Agrykola), open 12:00-4:00. Owned by the same dudes behind Plan B, the name translates as ‘Playground’. With a low-key, open air set-up in the wooded bit under Trasa Łazienkowska, from an aesthetic point there’s little to write home about. Even so, with summer in song you’ll find it rocking into the wee, early hours.

Plażowa (G3) Underneath Most Poniatowskiego, open 12:00-last guest. They either complement Temat Rzeka next door, or steal their thunder – your choice. Set in and around a swanky new complex standing under the National Stadium, points are scored for a music stage, an open air top floor VIP platform, and toilets you aren’t terrified of entering. No word of a lie, in terms of nightlife, it’s the biggest thing to happen to Warsaw this summer.

Temat Rzeka (G3) Under Poniatowskiego Bridge, open Sun-Tue 11:00-1:00; Wed 11:00-2:00; Thu 11:00-3:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-5:00 Due to open at some point in May, Temat Rzeka has been a sensation the last couple of summers, with nowhere else in Europe having more internet check-ins. The beach area in front of this sleek riverside cabin attracts hundreds, sometimes thousands, of late night revelers.

shot bars Afera na Szpitalnej ul. Szpitalna 3, open 11:00-2:00; Fri 11:00-6:00; Sat 15:00-6:00; Sun 15:00-2:00 In terms of style Afera seems more sanitized than Warsaw’s other shot bars. But is it more sane? No chance! When the clubs have closed top-up your alcohol levels by necking little shots of horror from one of the most complete vodka menus in town.

Bar Warszawa ul. Miodowa 2, open 14:00-4:00, barwarszawa.pl Creak upstairs to find a warm space filled out with sofas and nostalgic decorations such as vintage radios and black and white photos of bare breasted prostitutes. Run as a side project by a TV producer, flexible opening hours mean it doesn’t always close at the stated 4 a.m.

shopping accessories Agent Provocateur ul. Mokotowska 59, tel. 22 273 6162, www. agentprovocateur.com The boutique is stocked full of the latest collection – gorgeous lacy bras with scrumptious attention to detail, matching panties, teddies and a bunch of strappy get-ups you can only get away with if you’re very fit or very confident, but preferably both. And if that’s not enough, they’ve got sexy stockings, silk robes, perfume, satin gloves, a blindfold and nipple tassels…

CAMERA STORES FOTOFORMA (Pl. Defilad 1, fotoforma.pl) Here’s the lot: from tripods, studio equipment and drones to cameras for all needs and budgets – dinky point and shoots up to paparazzi musthaves such as the Nikon SLR D4S (yours for a little over 23 grand). Also sell used lenses, cameras and miscellaneous second hand equipment.

LEICA STORE (ul. Mysia 3, leicastore.pl) Books, accessories and cult cameras including the Leica T range, Leica M and Leica S, not to mention Impossible Polaroid cameras. Ask in the shop for details about their photographic workshops. Forthcoming in June, a two day class with Wacław Wantuch focusing on nude monochromatic photography…

PROCLUB (ul. Żytnia 15, proclub.pl) Brands include: Canon, Sony, Leica, Panasonic, Olympus, Fujifilm, Pentax, Zeiss, Eizo, Fomei, Manfrotto, Lowepro, SanDisk, GoPro, Hoya, Zoom. Also available, a range of studio accessories, books, memory cards, projectors – the lot. They even offer courses on subjects ranging from architecture to aerial photography.

PHOTO MARKET (ul. Batorego 10, gieldafotograficzna.waw.pl) Rouse yourself on Sunday and enter the Stodoła club which miraculously transforms from a sweaty student club to a pungent man lair of cameras and photo equipment. This market is renowned for the breadth of its photographic offer. Open from 10 a.m. till 2 p.m., with an entry charge of zł. 4.50.

Bath & Body Works ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00, ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 The famed American brand signals its arrival to Europe with the launch of their Warsaw branch. Now fans of the brand can experience first-hand luxurious fragrant body care, hand and home collections.

Customers can discover sophisticated fragrances, test shower gels and soaps at the sink area, and try everything from body lotions to home fragrances.

Batycki (various locations) Bozena Batycka’s sleek, simple handbag designs are made with italian leather. While her products are not inexpensive by Polish standards, their uniqueness combined with substantial durability make them a perenial favorite.

BeautyLab Polska ul. Belwederska 20/22, beautylabpolska.pl Rated as one of the biggest names in global cosmetics, the range of treatments run from anti-ageing to daily body care and skin care.

Pracownia Szczotek ul. Poznańska 26, khaja.pl Opened in 1952, this bespoke brush store has been passed down from grandfather to father and then onto son. On offer: everything from paintbrushes to moustache combs to hairbrushes.

And the owner is a character as well: “I don’t have time for Facebook,” he says, “it would get in the way of my tango lessons!” www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / shopping

Victoria’s Secret Beauty & Accessories ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 665 625 618, open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00, ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), tel.

22 541 4141, Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 An assortment of Victoria’s Secret Beauty products including fun and flirty fragrances, such as Bombshell, as well as the scented VS Fantasies body care range.

For that glam girl-on-the go, expect to find a wide range of Victoria’s Secret branded bags, luggage, passport covers and small leather goods to cosmetic bags, bangles and key fobs.

fashion Bombay Shirts ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 606 270 400, bombayshirts.com Custom-made shirts for both men and women created from a choice of over 150 fabrics: among them the finest Egyptian cotton, two-ply cottons and pure linens. They promise shirts that are ‘modern and fast-paced but buttressed with old world charm’.

Chiara ul. Mokotowska 49, tel. 22 376 5489, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00, tel. 22 611 3814, pl. Uni Lubelskiej, tel. 22 647 0394, open Mon-Fri 10:00-21:00; Sat Sun 10:00-20:00, www.chiara-online.pl A solid assortment of Marc Jacobs and other top international designers such as Michael Kors and Jil Sander.

EM Cashmere Boutique ul. Szczygla 8, tel. 22 826 1956, emcashmere.pl Available brands include Allude Cashmere, Annette Görtz, Studiorundholz and Sarah Pacini with 30-40% discounts on last year’s collections, and up to 70% on those of previous years. A truly beautiful find with the clothes offer supplemented with shoes and accessories.

Hard Rock Cafe ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, open daily 9:00-24:00, hardrockcafe.pl No wardrobe is complete without the iconic Hard Rock t-shirt! Find the Warsaw-stamped version available here, along with other extras for the all American look.

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Moliera 2 Boutique ul. Moliera 2, tel, 22 827 7099, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, Sat 11:00-16:00, www.moliera2.com Brands include: Balmain, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Gianvito Rossi, Herve Leger, Jimmy Choo, Kenzo, Kotur, Moncler Gamme Rouge, Ralph Lauren, Simonetta Ravizza, Tory Burch, Valentino, Victoria Beckham and Yves Salomon.

Mostrami.pl www.mostrami.pl Known to insiders as the ‘Polish Net-a-porter’, the online Mostrami portal showcases a whole breed of Polish fashion talent: Blessus, Justyna Chrabelska, Łukasz Jemioł, and Zuo Corp, as well as the rock stars of the local scene such as Kupisz, Zień and Plich. Around 100 designers to choose from, with prices straddling the wide spectrum of purchasing power.

Muji ul Mysia 3, tel. 502 264 091, open MonSat 10:00-20:00; Sun 12:00-18:00, www.muji.com.pl Having first opened its doors in 1983, in Japan, Muji still retains its simple aesthetic and ethos of marrying functionality with sophistication, with products ranging from furniture, kitchenware, stationary and clothing. Check out their online store.

Pinko Klif shopping Centre, ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4616, open Mon-Sat 9:00-21:00, Nowy Świat 1, tel. 22 629 1773, open Mon-Sat 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-19:00; Sun 11:00-16:00, Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), tel. 22 541 3862, Mon-Sat 10:0022:00, Sun 10:00-22:00, www.pinko.it Straight from Italy, this exclusive shop offers an array of chic day wear and eye-catching casual and evening clothes.

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, tel. 22 622 14 16, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-17:00, www.plactrzechkrzyzy.com Brands include: Fay, Gianvito Rossi, Jimmy Choo, Kenzo, Moncler, Ralph Lauren, Simonetta Ravizza, Tod’s, Tom Ford, Tory Burch, Valentino and Yves Salomon. And also in the luxury baby corner: baby Dior, Dolce&Gabbana Kids, Dsquared2 Kids, Kenzo Kids, Moncler Kids, Ralph Lauren Kids and Tod’s Kids.

Ptasia 6 ul. Ptasia 6, tel. 733 874 609, ptasia6.pl A unique ladies concept store showcasing the works of both emerging and established independent Polish fashion labels such as Eva Grygo, Confashion, Horror! Horror!, Kasia Miciak and Polanka.

QπШ - Robert Kupisz ul. Mokotowska 48/204 (courtyard), tel.

506 170 801, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-14:00, www.robertkupisz.com One of Warsaw’s hottest fashion icons, and a trip here soon explains why. The exclusive, handmade garments are a guaranteed head turner.

Reykjavik District ul. Burakowska 15, tel. 501 399 222, open Tue-Fri 13:00-19:00; Sat-Sun 13:00-17:00, www.reykjavikdistrict.com Chic, well-cut menswear for all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal.

Safripsti ul. Oleandrów 3 Formerly a make-up artist in London and Paris, owner Magdalena returned to Poland to open a vintage boutique.

Buying wholesale – meaning prices are kept in check – her fashion store presents finds like authentic cheerleader outfits and Hawaiian shirts for summer, not to mention a great selection of denim, parkers and so forth. And how about a classic Burberry mac for zł. 200?

Fashion Van Thorn ul. Sienna 39, tel. 22 243 7377, vanthorn. pl Bespoke and made-to-measure suits as well as custom-made shirts and a range of accessories from ties and pocket squares down to shoes and cufflinks. The attention to detail, the quality and craftsmanship are staggering.

Vintage Store ul. Dobra 56/66 (Level 1, University of Warsaw library), tel. 501 301 742, www. vintagestore.pl Since its inception the store has grown in many ways – now, used brands like Burberry, Barbour, dresses from the ’70s, Hermes scarves, snakeskin handbags, or original Adidas sweaters from the ’60s and ’70s (the owner is an avid collector) are not an uncommon find in the shop.

listings / shopping Viola Śpiechowicz ul. Kolejowa 55 (Łomianki), tel. 518 920 124, open Mon-Fri 9:00-15:00, vsstore.eu/ violaspiechowicz.com Viola Spiechowicz is an inspiring, unpretentious and highly creative fashion designer who has cultivated her own original and inimitable style since her 1992 debut. Her designs are the result of a long search for the perfect form, texture and color scheme, lending each project its own unique style: be it fashion, upholstery fabrics or accessory design.

Wake Up The Bear ul. Mokotowska 41, wakeupthebear.com Stylish ‘travel practical’ clothes as designed by the acclaimed Viola Spiechowicz.

Featuring natural fabrics and multipurpose add-ons, this is the ultimate in comfort clothes.

home 3F Studio ul. Nowolipki 28b, tel. 22 651 5644, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00, www.3fstudio.com.pl Offers furnishings and lighting from top contemporary Italian brands like BB Italia, Moroso, Living Divani, Desalto and Artemide. The in-house design team creates custom interiors for clients.

Le Pukka ul. Solec 58/60, lepukka.pl For interior inspirations take a look at Le Pukka: highly original furniture and decorative pieces for the home come from the likes of Smeg, AreaDeclic, HK Living and Zuiver.

www.mokotowska71.pl Offering creations by Belgian and French designers, this shop just screams elegance, beauty and style.

malls & department stores Arkadia Al. Jana Pawła II 82, tel. 22 323 6767, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00, www.arkadia.com.pl Blind Concept Store ul. Mokotowska 63/100, tel. 501 770 661 From established international names to upcoming local designers, consider Blind your one-stop fashion solution. Find it all from eclectic jewelry from Anka Krsytyniak and Chocokate, eyewear from Cheap Monday and Woodyglasses, killer heels from United Nude and Melissa & Vivienne Westwood, etc Galeria Mokotów ul. Wołoska 12, tel. 22 541 4141, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00, www.galeriamokotow.com.pl Klif House of Fashion ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4500, open Mon-Sat 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. www.klif.pl Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has everything from the excellent Alma supermarket to top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko.

Plac Unii ul. Puławska 2, tel. 22 204 0499, open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00, www.placunii.pl Warsaw’s latest mall counts Armani Jeans, Liu-Jo and Pandora amongst its upmarket tenants.

Mysia 3 ul. Mysia 3, tel. 603 767 574, open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00; Sun 12:00-18:00, www. mysia3.pl Hip department store that’s seen a few tenants come and go, yet has remained on the cutting edge in spite of it all. Set in Poland’s former censorship office, the line-up includes Scandinavian fashion in Cos, shoes from My Paris, unconventional fashion from Nenukko and more.

Vitkac Wolf Bracka Vitkac, ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7313, open Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00; Sun 11:00-18:00, www.likusconceptstore.pl Vitkac was made for with a credit card blitz in mind. Poland’s first luxury department store gathers the world’s top designers under one roof, with brands including Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton, Stella McCartney and Rick Owens.

And that’s the tip of the iceberg. Finish with dinner in the top floor Concept 13.

Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59, tel. 22 222 2200, open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00, www. zlotetarasy.pl Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Jatomi Health and Fitness Club.

Magazyn Praga ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), magazynpraga. pl Magazyn Praga pride themselves on bold, original items suited to all kinds of budgets.

Found in the Soho Factory ‘creative complex’, this concept store will reinvent your home.

Makutra ul. Oleandrów 5, tel. 22 825 4084, open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-14:00, makutra.com To know and not to cook, is not to know. This store has everything a master chef seeks: from tagines to mezzalunas, it’s got the lot covered. Huge stock of cook books and kitchenware.

Mokotowska 71 ul. Mokotowska 71, tel. 22 629 0511, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00,

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family activities Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. 22 596 41 00, open Tue-Fri 9:00-6:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-7:00, www.kopernik.org.pl A brilliant array of science-inspired attractions that prove as stimulating for parents as they are for the kids. Check out Galeria BZZZ, an area designated for children up to six. In order to keep numbers manageable, expect entry times to be staggered.

When my husband mentioned watching some horse racing I wasn’t chomping at the bit to join him: images of seedy betting shops, men clutching betting slips and ladies in ridiculous outfits and oversized hats flashed past me! But after a peek at the Tor Służewiec Eng/PL website, plus the promise of exploring the pre-war pavilion (an architectural gem from the art deco period), I took a gamble. As it transpired it turned out to be a great family day out.

Entrance / Dress Code Make a day of it and get there early. With ample free parking and an entrance fee of just zł. 5 this place draws in the crowds fast. A zł. 25 family ticket allows entrance to the pavilion’s first floor and balcony, which has panoramic viewing opportunities and shorter toilet lines. There’s no dress code, so shorts and flip flops are as welcome as ensembles resembling Audrey Hepburn in My Fair Lady.

Food On occasions the extensive green shaded areas are crammed full of food trucks ready to serve up everything from fast food to posh nosh. All other times you can eat from the grill restaurant or in the pavilion canteen. To avoid queues pack a blanket and picnic. There are no restrictions on what you can bring into the grounds, so if you anticipate winning feel free to bring a bottle of bubbly!

Place Your Bets Whether you get a tip off, pick the horse with the funniest name, go with your lucky number or just choose the feisty dark horse, for as little as zł.

3 you can place a bet. I tried to emphasize that the fun was in selecting a possible winner rather than actually winning. That’s not easy when the adrenaline gets flowing, Bruno Mars’ song ‘Billionaire’ blasts out after every race and dad gets the ice cream with his winnings! (GBB)

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Fundacja Atelier ul. Foksal 11, 22 826 8813 or 22 826 9589, open Mon-Fri 10:00- 20:00, Sat 9:30-20:30, www.atelier.org.pl Situated in an atmospheric 19th century building this foundation organizes affordable/flexible workshops to develop and inspire art education and creative skills (painting/drawing/sculpture/ art history) for children, young people and adults.

Gym Generation ul. Wybrzeże Gdyńskie 4 (Centrum Olimpijskie, floor 4), tel. 502 092 695, gymgeneration.pl A professionally developed curriculum that offers your child a range of experiences, providing new and exciting activities each time and engaging them in physical challenges, a variety of games and team puzzles. There’s a maximum of 15 kids to a class, with one instructor for every five children.

Guitar Classes Tel. 732 860 825, arekniezgoda@hotmail. com Private guitar lessons either at your place or in a private studio in Wilanów.

Classic, acoustic and electric guitar taught by Arek, a 35-year old teacher who covers most

PHOTOGRAPH BY GILL BOELMAN-BURROWS

A DAY AT THE RACES

Fryzjerkowo ul. Foksal 12/14, tel. 22 827 2744, open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-18:00, www.fryzjerkowo.pl This 100% child friendly hair salon with jungle theme interior will guarantee no tears! Whilst having their locks chopped children sit in a toy car and watch a favorite DVD. Mum can peruse the retro toys and classic books on sale. Owner speaks excellent English. Advance booking recommended.

listings / family styles from classic to pop/rock. Previous work experience includes teaching in private music schools in California and at The British School of Warsaw. Both kids and adults are welcome.

HulaKula ul. Dobra 56/66, tel. 22 552 74 00, open Mon-Tue 12:00-24:00; Wed 12:00-1:00; Fri 12:00-3:00; Sat 10:00-4:00; Sun 10:00-24:00, www.hulakula.com.pl Bowling alley and soft indoor playground: heaven for kids and hell for grown-ups! Children love to climb, explore and slide into large ball pools.

Parents hate the lack of daylight and fast food menu.

Little Chef ul. Bałuckiego 30/1, tel. 501 093 691, www.littlechef.pl (visit for more information) Cooking classes for children age 3-16. Groups for younger children age 4-10 and Junior Chef courses age 11-16. Kids cook and eat healthy meals. Great fun! Classes in English and Polish, Mon-Sat. Little Gym ul. Bruzdowa 56, tel. 22 842 0728, www. thelittlegym.pl Expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-to-child ratio, original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. Not only a great place for children, but tailored to a comfortable and relaxing stay for parents as well.

Zachęta Gallery Pl. Małachowskiego 3, tel. 22 556 9600, open Tue-Sun 12:00-20:00, www.zacheta. art.pl Recently undergone extensive modernization but still awaiting a café, this gallery and bookshop offer a perfect introduction to modern art. Also available are weekend workshops for children and original cultural birthday parties guided by experienced animators in a contemporary environment.

education preschools

American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel.

22 702 85 00, www.aswarsaw.org ASW provides an American-styled educational program to students aged 4 and 5. The curriculum offers a rich, meaningful and balanced educational experience through age-appropriate activities. For further information and/ or to visit our school, contact: admissions@ aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00.

The British School Early Years Centre ul. Dąbrowskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel.

22 646 7777, british@thebritishschool.pl, www.thebritishschool.pl The British School provides special classes from pre-nursery

aged 30 months to 6 years old. Children at the Early Years Centre move on to our Primary and Secondary schools at Limanowskiego 15.

Buzzy Bee Bilingual Preschool & Kindergarten ul. Śląska 45, tel. 502 036 962 / 22 863 30 96, www.przedszkole-wlochy.pl An English immersion program designed for Polish and international children aged one to five.

The curriculum is conducted in Polish and English and prepares children for entry into their Vancouver primary schools. The school is situated in a quiet, green neighborhood of Stare Włochy and includes a 2,000 sq/m garden.

The Canadian School of Warsaw Preschool ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, preschool@canadian-school.pl The Canadian School of Warsaw is the only authorized school in Warsaw teaching IB PYP in English.

The preschool offers a bilingual environment for 3-6 year olds enriched with foreign languages and extra activities. Serving the Warsaw community since 2000 all children are welcome, though available space is limited. For further info, tours and school visits call or email.

Mums & Tots www.mumsandtots.pl A volunteer group for mums (and dads) of all nationalities – coffee mornings, play groups, art and music classes and nights out for parents; the list is endless.

For more details, as well as their newsletter and schedule check their web.

Teatr Guliwer ul. Różana 16, tel. 22 845 16 76/77, box office open 9:00-17:30, www.teatrguliwer. waw.pl Well worth a visit, even for non-Polish speakers. An exciting colorful premises with creative costumes make this the choice place to introduce the kids to theater.

Warsaw Zoo ul. Ratuszowa 1/3, tel. 22 619 4041, open Mon-Sun 9:00-18:00, www.zoo.waw.pl The hippopotami now have an indoor and outdoor pool, the gorillas a new pavilion, and the arrival of a shark means it now has an ‘aquarium’.

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listings / family Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations)

Warsaw Montessori School ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www.warsawmontessori. edu.pl Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have 3 green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy.

Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. Call to make an appointment to tour any of the 3 schools.

Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupery ul. Nobla 16, tel. 22 616 14 99, www.ecole-montessori.pl The preschool is located in the Saska Kępa district and provides a Montessori curriculum in French for children aged from 18 months to 6 years old.

The English Playhouse ul. Pływiańska 14a & ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 22 843 9370, office open 8:0016.00, www.theenglishplayhouse.com The English Playhouse functions in two green

and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old.

For more info or to arrange a tour of the pre-school or nursery call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email: jnowak@ theenglishplayhouse.com

The International Preschool of Warsaw ul. Kalatowki 24, tel. 22 843 0964, ipw. edu.plIPW is located in a residential area of Mokotów, within walking distance of Królikarnia as well as both tram and metro lines. Children from 2.5 to 6 years old are welcome. English is the language spoken and breakfast, lunch and snacks are provided during the day. Children also have the opportunity to participate in gymnastics, music, art and drama classes. IPW serves the international community and prepares children for international education.

Happy Montessori House Warsaw Montessori Pre-school, ul. Rumiana 14, tel. 22 423 50 75, mob. 697 060 504, open 7.30-17:00, www.hmh.com.pl The Happy Montessori House offers part-time and full-time places for children aged between 2 to 6 years, as well as toddler-focused activities (from 18 months to 3 years) centered around movement, sensorial stimulation, storytelling, singing and socialising.

Save the Date!

Prospective Parent’s Meeting for our Casa dei Bambini, Warsaw and Izabelin and Toddler School Programs

warsaw montessori school

Date: Wednesday, June 10th 2015 Time: 7:00 p.m.

Place: Casa dei Bambini, Warsaw location 19 Badowska (Directly behind Sielecka 52) For reservations, please call: 692 099 134 or e-mail: office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl www.warsawmontessori.edu.pl

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Maple Tree Montessori ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/ Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, www.mapletreemontessori.pl Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). Find them located in the Wilanów district of Warsaw, in a house safely nestled into the end of a quiet street.

Międzynarodowa Szkoła Podstawowa Argonaut ul. Radarowa 6, tel. 504 509 504, open Mon-Fri 7.30-18:00, www.argonaut.edu.pl This elementary school is open for children of all nationalities and backgrounds. It places a focus on learning English as well as additional languages, and has an attractive list of available extracurricular activities.

schools American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, www. aswarsaw.org ASW is a premier college-

listings / family preparatory international school that offers a PK-12 curriculum, including the IB Diploma Program in Grades 11 and 12. Students are inspired and challenged every day by experienced and dedicated teachers, who provide enriching learning opportunities in a world class facility. For further information and/ or to visit our school contact: admissions@ aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00.

The British School ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, open 8:00-16:00, british@thebritishschool. pl, www.thebritishschool.pl Top-ranking private school in Warsaw providing outstanding education based on the British system.

The Canadian School of Warsaw Elementary School ul. Bełska 7, tel.

692 411 573, admission@ canadian-school.pl, www.canadian-school.pl The Canadian School of Warsaw is the only authorized school in Warsaw teaching IB PYP in English. The Primary School offers bilingual education for 6-11 year olds. Highly qualified, international staff, challenging materials and a friendly atmosphere provide an optimal setting for the highest standard of education.

Extra-curricular activities include visual arts, designing classes, ceramics/pottery, GIVE art studio, music lessons (piano, guitar,

TION

choir), sports (capoeira, karate, judo, soccer, swimming, gymnastics), languages (English, Polish, French, Spanish, Italian, German) and more.

The Canadian School of Warsaw Middle School ul. Olimpijska 11, tel.

600 247 655, secretary. olimpijska@canadianschool.pl, www.canadian-school.pl Provides a continuation of PREIB education for 11-15 year olds. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create a perfect learning and creative thinking environment. For further info, tours and school visits call or email. Also home to the Non-Public Psycho-Pedagogical Counseling Centre ‘Olimpia’ (tel. 885 620 066) which examines the level of mental, emotional, auditory and visual-motor functions’ development, and conducts individual and group pedagogical therapy, as well as individual psychotherapy..

qualified native French-speaking teachers.

Vancouver School ul. Globusowa 38, tel.

887 808 266, vancouverschools.pl The teaching system here combines the best practices and aspects of the Polish and Canadian education systems, with daily classes in English conducted in accordance with the proven method of ‘immersion’ using modern Canadian and British materials.

cafes Figa z Makiem (Saska Kępa) ul. Walecznych 64, tel. 512 939 001, open Mon-Sat 10.30-19:00, Sun 11:00-19:00, www.figazmakiem.edu.pl One of the latest and greatest addition to the growing roster of Warsaw kid cafes. Do some well selected designer kids shopping while waiting, or simply browse the books and toys section while your little ones romp in the kids room.

Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupery Fiku Miku ul. Nobla 16, tel. 22 ul. Zwycięzców 32, tel. 692 448 112, open 616 14 99, www.saintMon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-20:00, exupery.pl Established www.fikumikucafe.pl This small, jolly cafe is in 1994, the Antoine de dedicated to children. The focus is on films Saint-Exupery preschool and creative workshops. Designer Polish toys and school provides a French curriculum are on sale alongside a healthy menu, and for children aged from 3 to eleven years old fresh cake selection. Check FB for updates as YOUR CHILD PREMIUM in a welcoming familyAatmosphere.

Highly EDUCAthis café closes for private birthday parties.

GIVE YOUR CHILD A PREMIUM EDUCATION

www.thebritishschool.pl

founded in 1992

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listings / family Kalimba ul. Mierosławskiego 19, tel. 22 839 75 60 or 501 183 953, open Mon-Fri 9:30-20:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-20:00, www. kalimba.pl Kalimba café caters to Warsaw’s boho-chic community. Relax with long latte’s or nibble healthy snacks whilst kids climb a spiral staircase to the indoor tree house, role-play in the kitchen area or join creative workshops. The shop, with original handmade toys is tempting, but it’s the pick’n’mix candy that’s unavoidable!

Kolonia ul. Łęczycka (corner of Ładysława), tel. 661 064 944 or 605 084 804, open 9:00-20:00, www.kolonia-ochota.pl Not just an excellent cafe, Kolonia is aslo equipped with a garden/playground. Kolonia is the most kidfriendly (and pet-friendly) place in the area, offering fresh daily specials and a staff that always welcomes you with a smile.

Peek-a-boo ul. Karola Chodkiewicza 7, tel. 22 370 21 71, open Mon-Sun 10:00-20:00 The pale palette and plush velvet upholstered furniture might not be the first choice of fabrics around sticky, chocolaty paws but every mummy needs a bit of luxury from time-to-time. The café divides its limited square meters evenly between parent and child expectations, creating space to relax, eat and play in: however, the gigantic doll’s house does suggest Barbie got the best deal.

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Umpa Lumpa ul. Mickiewicza 24, tel. 22 245 1909, open Mon-Sun 10:00-21:00. www.umpa-lumpa. pl Bit part café, most part candy store. Colorfully designed, shelves here feature an array of rainbow colored lollipops, sweets and chocolate. Spoil your toddler, and yourself while you’re there.

shops Endo www.endo.pl Endo is the original home of quality children’s wear that embraced great design by Polish artists and accompanied it with Polish slogans. Much of the materials used are organic, hardwearing and wash well.

Lullaby Multiple locations, www.lullaby.pl Jam packed with funky design and quirky gifts for your little ones. However, the exquisite clothing and designer labels do come with a hefty price tag.

Mimbla ul.Mokotowska 51/53, tel. 22 629 3065, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 10:0014:00. Exclusively for kids on Warsaw’s most exclusive shopping street it’s an Aladdin’s cave of quality toys and Polish/English books. Get your gift wrapped here and both mum and child will be happy even before opening it.

Muppetshop ul. Kazimierzowska 43, tel. 532 689 212, muppetshop. pl An innovative concept store that offers a wide range of brands and products targeted at young people – babies, juniors, teenagers. The portfolio includes full-service for expecting parents as well as complete interior projects (from 0 to the first-owned apartment). On top of that expect a wealth of other design products (kitchen accessories, decorations, toys, bags, books etc.) from carefully selected brands such as Quax, Lodger, Chispum, Shnuggle, Collegien, Jielde, Gubi and many more besides. It all serves to make it the No. 1 spot for your youngsters shopping.

Pieluszkarnia ul. Topiel 12, ul. Mandalińskiego 25, tel. 22 713 8275, open Mon-Fri 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-15:00 This small chain specializes in eco-friendly toys and clothing designed and produced in Poland. Products include the Lalanka dolly clothing collection, luxuriously soft reversible winter balaclavas and Martello blankets personalized for births etc.

Smyk Multiple stores, tel. 22 462 7250 Smyk is Poland’s answer to Mothercare; from bottle sterilizing kits to pencil cases, early learning toys to Disney classics and a wide range of seasonal clothing, this store will take you from childbirth to high school!

health & beauty cycling stores & service Bikeman Al. Wyzwolenia 14, bikeman.pl On-road, x-road and off-road bikes, with brands including Alpina, Burley, Ergon and Giant.

Accessories plus everything you need to revive your bike if it passes out.

Galeria Sztuki Rowerowej ul. Widok 10, tel. 507 202 572 Glorious bikes, many of them vintage, and many of them in colors that’ll make you the talk of the town. Not just affordable prices, they also promise to fix your bike for free should it suddenly conk out.

GOLF FOUR OF THE BEST CENTRUM GOLF ul. Burakowska 15, centrumgolf.pl Fulfill the dream of playing at Pebble Beach or Torrey Pines by booking a tee-time on one of Centrum Golf’s HD golf simulators. The realism is incredible. Added benefits include instant analysis and data to improve your game.

FIRST WARSAW GOLF & COUNTRY CLUB (pictured) ul. Golfowa (Jabłonna), firstwarsawgolf.com Found 25 kiometers from Warsaw, this 20,000 sq/m complex features a par 72, 18-hole championships golf course, all year driving range, luxurious club house and a stunning environment replete with gliding swans and bouncing bunnies! The final hole, set on an island, attracts golfers from across Poland and beyond.

GOLF PARKS POLAND ul. Vogla 19, www.golfparkspoland.pl.

Keen golfers (all ages) can perfect their swing at this friendly, well equipped driving range, whilst beginners can opt for professional individual lessons or beginner group programs in English or Polish.

Among other features are a chipping area, sand bunker, putting green, pitch and putt course and mini-golf.

SOBIENIE KRÓLEWSKIE GOLF & COUNTRY CLUB ul. Sobienie Szlacheckie 6 (Sobienie Jeziory), sobieniekrolewskie.pl Set around a 19th century manor house / hotel, the Sobienie golf course was designed by the British Ford Golf Course Design Group and touts 18 holes spread across a highly scenic course approximately 40 kilometers from central Warsaw. Tennis, spa and horse riding facilities also available.

Kettler ul. Okopowa 56, tel. 22 826 3541, pl.kettler. net The world-renowned Kettler brand brings the full extent of their offer to Warsaw. On the bike front that means mountain bikes, city and their innovative e-bikes. This being Kettler, find also numerous other products to contribute to your active lifestyle.

Plumbike ul. Puławska 67/69, tel. 690 005 415, plumbike.eu More of a bike boutique than a standard old bike store. Assembled by hand by the Plumbike team, the models here are beautiful, and range from choppers to cruisers in eye-catching colors.

gyms Fitness Centre at the Radisson SAS Centrum Hotel ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888 Smallish but well-regarded gym with swimming pool, sauna, gym, and group classes inside one of Warsaw’s top five stars.

Fitness Centre at the Sheraton Hotel ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6701, www.sheraton. com/warsaw The Sheraton spa features sauna, steam room and massage, while the gym comes with LCD-fitted running and cycling machines, and a dedicated cardio section. Personal training available, as are group classes covering pilates, yoga, aerobics and even ski conditioning. www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / health & beauty Holmes Place Energy Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (C.H. Arkadia), ul.

Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), www. holmesplace.pl Making top-flight gym facilities available to the masses, the Holmes Place Energy brand offers high standard equipment, personal training and group classes. Six month membership available for approx. zł. 200 per month, though prices are subject to change. For latest details enquire direct.

Holmes Place Premium ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel), tel.

22 851 0563, ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), tel. 22 313 1222, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), tel. 519 436 841, www.holmesplace.pl Those who use it claim the Hilton branch is the best gym in Poland.

Set on two floors, highlights include a 25 meter pool, sauna and steam room and a spacious gym packed with the most modern equipment. Also on-site, a varied timetable of classes, excellent personal trainers and a Green Coffee relaxation area. There’s two more ‘premium’ gyms to choose from, including the one in the Marriott immortalized after Obama’s recent work out there.

McFit ul. Świętokrzyska 3 (corner of Nowy Świat), tel. 22 313 1400, mcfit.com The budget European chain signals its arrival to Poland with a 2,000 sq/m studio that utilizes the latest technology as well as ‘cyber training’ programs. Open 24/7, with membership from zł. 89 per month.

Pure Jatomi Fitness Platinum Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59 (floor 3, opposite McDonald’s), tel. 22 379 7777, open Mon-Fri 6:00-22:30; Sat 8:00-22:30; Sun 8:00-21:00, www. jatomifitness.pl The largest and fastest growing fitness chain in Poland currently has 35 locations and 117,000 members across the country. All clubs have new generation machines, innovative forms of group activities (Booiaka, Hot Yoga, Pure Pump, Pure Fire and Wah Gwan Dancehall) and professional personal trainers schooled in nutrition and the healthy lifestyle.

Pure Jatomi Fitness Platinum Zodiak ul. Widok 26, tel. 22 100 3400, open 24hrs, www.jatomifitness.pl Poland’s fastest growing fitness chain has been recognized for excellence after being named SCF Leisure & Fitness Retailer of the Year 2014. Other Pure Jatomi clubs in Warsaw include: Blue

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City, Galeria Renova, Sadyba Best Mall, Promenada and Targówek.

RiverView Wellness Centre ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental), tel. 22 328 86 40, www.riverview.com.pl Top-class facilities and equipment, private instructors and small classes. The view from the highest pool in Europe offers a glorious panorama of the city. Annual prices from zł. 4,200 (access from Mon-Fri 6 a.m. to 5 p.m.), zł. 5,760 (all times), and zł. 8,350 for Diamond Membership (includes two personal training sessions per month, a complimentary weekend at the InterContinental, restaurant discounts, etc.).

dental clinics ArtDental ul. Łucka 18, tel. 22 654 3006, artdental.pl Well-known among expats, ArtDental’s service is widely praised for its honest service and moderate prices. English speaking and moderately priced.

Aster Med ul. Św. Bonifacego 92, tel. 22 858 0354, www.astermed.pl Aster Med, while billing itself as a center of orthodontics and implantology, is really the full service with 14 dentists and 4 orthodontists and implant surgeons.

DeClinic ul. Bernardyńska 16A, tel. 22 112 0400, declinic.pl Regarded as one of the most modern clinics in Europe, amongst other innovations DeClinic have swapped the traditional drilling process in favor of abrasive sandblaster – perfect for kids or those afraid of the dentist.

DentaLux ul. Racławicka 31 & Puławska 257, tel. 22 787 878, dentalux.pl Englishspeaking service available, as well as 24hr emergency consultations.

Odent ul. Nowoursynowska 145E (entry from ul.

Rosoła) & ul. Duchnicka 3, tel. 22 405 4430, odent.pl Dubbed ‘the clinic with a heart’, Odent’s personal approach is complimented

by expert staff and the latest and most advanced treatments and equipment.

English-speaking service also available.

medical clinics Damian Medical Center Various locations, see website for details: damian.pl Established in 1994, Damian offer a wide range of medical services in their hospital and five outpatient clinics. English spoken widely.

Lux Med Medical Clinics Various locations, see website for details: www.luxmed.pl Medicover Various locations, see website for details: medicover.pl Hugely popular amongst ex-pats, Medicover offer a wide range of membership schemes for both private and corporate clients. The jewel in their crown is a state-of-the-art hospital in the Wilanów district.

Therapy Warsaw ul. Filtrowa 69/13, tel. 601 532 319, www.therapywarsaw.com English-speaking therapy for couples and individuals dealing with relationships, eating disorders, trauma, stress and much more besides.

spas & salons

0 Bartek Janusz Salon ul. Mokotowska 19 / ul. Wilcza 72, tel. 22 828 4444, www.bartekjanusz.pl The staff here takes a no-nonsense approach to cutting hair – it goes along with the minimalist chic interiors of the place. According to one Insider: “I’ve never left a salon feeling so happy with my hair.”

Bio.Sis Nail Spa ul. Mokotowska 26, tel. 22 621 1404. A top spot for a classic manicure or pedicure – they also do lots of complicated things with gels and other hi-tech nail discoveries. Also on Elektoralna 24.

BodyClinic ul. Oboźna 9 lok. 104, tel. 22 826 1160 or 784 677 618, open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat 9:00-15:00, www.bodyclinic.pl Thorough body care for everyone. From the usual options to a huge variety of massages and

listings / health & beauty some very exotic treatments, BodyClinic covers all the bases.

Fiuu Fiuu Day Spa ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 629 2414. A wonderful quick fix salon that makes use of the latest Ericson products and other top brands. Regarded as one of the top ladies day spas in the country.

Hair a Porter ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Warsaw Hotel, level -1), tel. 22 558 1555, open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat 9:00-17:00, www. hair-a-porter.pl A staunch favorite among the ex-pat crowd, Hair a Porter offer the ultimate hair experience utilizing talented staff and top-quality products.

Haircology ul. Rozbrat 44A, tel. 669 780 669, open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-last guest, www.haircology.pl An upmarket ecologically minded hairdresser that eschews such things as synthetic fragrances, silicon and preservatives.

The Hermit Barber Shop pl. Bankowy 1, thehermit.pl You know those London barber shops you see in 1930s film reels? That’s Hermit, a thrilling throwback right down to the barber’s pole and checkered flooring. But don’t be fooled, this is as upmarket as it gets, with top quality products and even some 16-year-old whisky with which to pair the experience.

sport BGZ Arena / Velodrome ul. Andrzeja 1 (Pruszków), tel. 22 738 8394, bgzarena.com Bring a cycling helmet and you too can take a spin around the velodrome in Pruszków. Bike hire possible, with spins priced at approximately at zł. 40 per hour. For further details enquire directly.

Hash House Harriers Billing themselves as ‘the drinking club with a running problem’, the Warsaw chapter of the Hash House Harriers meets every couple of weeks and welcomes runners and walkers of every level. Search for them on Facebook for further details.

Sinnet Club ul. Gołkowska 2, tel. 22 550 3400, www. sinnet.pl An exclusive members sport club featuring full-size indoor tennis courts, two external courts, three squash courts, a 25 meter swimming pool plus spa and gym facilities.

Squash City Al. Jerozolimskie 179 (Blue City), tel. 22 499 6466, squashcity.pl Considered one of the top squash clubs in the country, Squash City covers an area of 1,000 sq/m, with six air-conditioned courts, shop, bar, etc.

Warsaw International Triathlon Club warsawtriclub.com Serving the needs of the athletic community, the WITC is open to all

interested in the disciplines of swimming, cycling and running.

W Pionie ul. Nowowiejska 37B, wpionie.pl An 11 meter climbing wall founded by two mountaineers. Considered one of the most advanced facilities of its kind in the country, English-speaking instructors can be rustled up on request.

swimming Aquapark Wesolandia ul. Wspólna 4 (Wesoła), tel. 22 773 9191, wesolandia.pl Features a recreational pool, kids pool and a 25 meter pool for more serious swimmers. Also on-site, a water tube, Jacuzzi, tennis and fitness facilities.

RiverView Wellness Centre ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental), tel.

22 328 86 40, riverview.com.pl Another members only pool, and this one is really worth the membership cost – it’s the highest pool in Europe. Stunning views of Warsaw make this a swim to remember.

Wodny Park ul. Merliniego 4, tel. 22 854 0130, wodnypark.com.pl When looking for a pool, most look no further: on-site find an Olympic swimming pool, recreational pool complete with artificial river, slides and tubes, a Russian ‘banya’ zone.

Odent was established to ensure the highest level of service on the dental map of Warsaw. We offer flexible hours, cutting edge technology and two branches in convenient locations in Żoliborz and Ursynów.

Scope of services: • Orthodontics • Teeth Whitening • Cutting-edge prosthetics

• Dental surgery and maxillofacial implants • Conservative treatment, cosmetic dentistry

• Treatment of children • Root canal treatment of teeth using traditional microscopic • X-ray lab

Żoliborz: ul. Duchnicka 3 bud.4, entrance A • Ursynów: Nowoursynowska 145 E (entrance from ul. Rosoła), www.odent.pl, tel. 22 405 44 30

www.warsawinsider.pl

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in the city

There’s one thing to do at Dworek w Kaputach, and that’s walk around the lake.

You can circle it in about five minutes, but the truth is it always takes longer.

No matter how many times you go around it, there’s always something that halts you in your tracks: five baby ducklings following their mother, or a bizarre wood carving peering from the flowerbeds. Built in 1738 by a local nobleman, this rambling manor house has served time as both an orphanage and then a field hospital during the Warsaw Uprising. Today, it is the definition of pastoral calm. Sitting amid the chirping sounds of nature, it’s hard to believe that central Warsaw is under 20 clicks away. “I’m sure,” says my colleague, “we can get pizza delivered.” It’s something we consider. Kaputach’s website doesn’t do the best job of informing guests that there isn’t a restaurant, but the owner soon springs to our rescue. Within minutes the BBQ is fired up, and we’re dining like Gods on a small wooden pergola that sits on the lake. As we make inroads into a pyramid of beer cans, the food keeps arriving in big meaty heaps. The good life. While the private cottages that fringe the gardens look like something Goldilocks would emerge out of, our accommodation is a bit more brown and basic. The rooms could do with a little more personalization, a little more nostalgia. Honestly though, that doesn’t really matter. Opting to see out the rest of the day in a downstairs fireplace room, we sit amid leather-bound books and chiming clocks. Outside, distant Baskervilles howl in the blackness. The feeling is one of contentment and escape.

Big, bad Warsaw has never felt further.

Dworek w Kaputach (dworekwkaputach.pl, rooms from zł. 200)

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PHOTOGRAPHS BY ED WIGHT

OUT OF THE CITY: Dworek w Kaputach

listings / in the city VISITORS accomodation 5-Star Hotels

Bristol Hotel ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1000, bristol@luxurycollection. com, www.hotelbristolwarsaw.pl

H15 Boutique ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 553 8700, info@h15ab.com, www.h15ab.com Hilton Warsaw ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555 / 800 44 11 482, www.hilton.com InterContinental ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com Mamaison Le Régina Hotel Warsaw ul. Kościelna 12, tel. 22 531 6000, www. mamaison.com Marriott Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 6306, www.warsawmarriott.com Regent Warsaw Hotel

ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, reservations@regent-warsaw.com, www.regent-warsaw.com

Radisson Blu Sobieski pl. Zawiszy 1, tel. 22 579 1000, www.sobieski.com.pl

The Rialto Boutique Hotel ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8700, www.rialto.pl

Mecure Warszawa Centrum ul. Złota 48/54, tel. 22 697 3999, www.mercure.com

Sheraton ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6100, www.sheraton.pl

Mercure Grand Warszawa ul. Krucza 28, tel. 22 583 2100, www.mercure.com

Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-warsaw

Courtyard by Marriott Hotel (Airport) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 0100, www.warszawacourtyard.pl Novotel Warszawa Centrum ul. Marszałkowska 94/98, tel. 22 596 0000, www.novotel.com, www.accorhotels.com

Sofitel Warsaw Victoria ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8011, www.sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com

Polonia Palace Hotel Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. 22 318 2800, www.poloniapalace.com

Westin Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, www.westin.pl

Warsaw Plaza Hotel ul. Łączyny 5, tel. 885 886 100, www. warsawplazahotel.pl

4-Star Hotels

3-Star Hotels

Hampton by Hilton ul. Wspólna 72, tel. 22 317 2700, hamptoninn3.hilton.com

Castle Inn Pl. Zamkowy, ul. Świętojańska 2, tel. 22 425 0100, www.castleinn.pl

Airport Hotel Okęcie ul. 17-ego Stycznia 24, tel. 22 456 8000, www.airporthotel.com.pl

Hotel Belwederski ul. Sulkiewicza 11, tel. 22 840 4011, www.hotelbelwederski.pl

ul. Ordynacka 13/5 | 00 –364 Warszawa | tel. +48 664 788 004 | w w w.klubdialogu.pl

KLUB DIALOGU POLISH LANGUAGE SCHOOL FOR FOREIGNERS TA I LO R – M A D E individual and minigroup courses: intensive, regular, weekend at your place or at school

www.warsawinsider.pl

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Ode to the Peiper

PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

Dr. Piotr Rypson, curator of a new exhibition dedicated to the life of Tadeuz Peiper, talks about the man who transformed Polish art‌

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“ I view myself as a manager, an editor and a story teller” For those unfamiliar with his works, could you introduce Tadeusz Peiper…

I’d say he’s one of the finest minds of inter-war Poland; you’ll often find him described as being a genius. Apart from being an important poet in a practical sense, he was the man who gave thrust to modern art in Poland. He did this through his theoretical writing, but mainly through the magazine he founded, Zwrotnica (The Switch). You get a sense of his ideas just from the name of the publication. For all that, he’s something of a forgotten individual. Through this exhibition we want to answer a few questions: how can a man who never painted a picture influence the visual arts so much to the point he was considered ‘the Pope of the avant garde’? What was his relationship with other countries and where did he come from? You see, he was an unknown one minute, yet within a year his magazine became a laboratory for the avant garde movement. How could this be?

those days the horizons ended with Moscow and Germany.

Paris was the hub of the art world! New York was seen as a mythical city! So to be able to show that there was a real live connection is a revelation to me. And it’s a thrill to have amassed so many works to demonstrate that: 11 from Spanish collections, and 23 in total.

So where did he come from?

During WWI many Poles fled the region, a lot of writers, artists and suchlike. Peiper was one of them and lived in Madrid from 1915 till 1920. At the same time a lot of young creatives from Latin America also relocated to Spain, people like Sonia Delaunay, Guillermo de Torre, Jorge Luis and Norah Borges, etc. All of a sudden you had this interesting link between Poland and South America, yet it’s something we never really think of.

Sounds simple!

We have three shows a year here, and our team wouldn’t have a problem filling the program for the next three years with exhibitions of important artists. That’s easy: you create a well researched exhibition and accompany it with an even more in-depth catalogue. A show like this though is more problematic because it aims to tackle questions. And that’s something we really want to do: we don’t just want to lay on a spectacle, but create something that helps us understand who we are as people, how we got here.

How did you build the exhibition around Peiper?

It’s a multi-layered exhibition we have, and a key part involves showing the artists who either influenced him or were influenced by him. This includes both Polish and Latin American artists. We’re showing what was considered to be the future of Polish formalism, constructivism and the role his magazine played in promoting the artists involved in its rise, as well as how, eventually, the avant garde movement was absorbed by mass media. But we can’t forget he was a writer, so we’re also using a lot of text – each room will have one of his poems to fit the scene.

Finally, there’s also three films, Mechanical Ballets, Symphony of the Great City and the Chaplin film The Modern Times.

What was Peiper’s lasting legacy?

He was constantly attempting to reconsider our relationship with machines – that was one of the main issues that bothered him. His point was that if we do not understand the function and makings of the mechanized world, then we would become slaves to the logic of the machine. He was obsessed with how technology was influencing our lives, our cities, our works of art.

The thing is, his predictions are still relevant today, though of course you’d replace machines with digital technology. In many ways we’ve lost the battle he warned of. Our lives have become governed by technology that determines what we do with our time and by technology that doesn’t help us.

What gets your blood going about this exhibition?

I’m so excited to show the connection between Poland and Latin America in 1918 – it’s never been done before. I mean back in

How does an exhibition like this come to life?

I remember speaking to Juan Manuel Bonet of the Cervantes Institute in Paris. I told him about the project and he was very enthusiastic, reassuring me that it wasn’t a crazy idea to dedicate an exhibition to a writer who had never drawn picture in his life. Together we visited Spain and were amazed by the wealth of material we found. In many respects we were very lucky in acquiring works from so many important art collections – there’s always a risk you won’t get the paintings you want.

What was working on this project like?

It’s one of the biggest I’ve been involved in. It demanded a lot of work, research and not to mention persuasion. Spain isn’t in the best financial shape, so the Polish side was definitely better equipped financially and logistically, but even so it’s been a pleasure to work on. It was three years in the making, so I’d almost compare it to building a house. You build the space, invite people around to experience it, and then, eventually, take it down again.

How would you describe your role as a curator?

I view myself as a manager, an editor and a story teller. The management part involves everything from juggling budgets to dealing with the media, but there’s so many other complications: dealing with sponsors and other institutions, landing works of art, tight schedules and restorers telling you which light or what space a work of art needs. Then when the idea for an exhibition comes together I need to edit the info and create a good narrative around it – an exhibition has to say something. Of course, the story telling goes beyond that – when you approach someone with an idea for an exhibition they’ll say, ‘great, but where are you going to get the money?’ Well, I need to come up with a good story to explain that!

The National Museum in Warsaw Al. Jerozolimskie 3, www.mnw.art.pl The Pope of the Avant-Garde. Tadeusz Peiper in Spain, Poland and Europe (28th May till 6th September) www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / in the city Golden Tulip ul. Towarowa 2, tel. 22 582 7500.

Holiday Inn Express Warsaw Airport ul. Poleczki 35, tel. 22 373 37 00, www.hiexpress.com Novotel Warszawa (Airport) ul. 1-ego Sierpnia 1, tel. 22 575 6000 Hotel Belwederski ul. Sulkiewicza 11, tel. 22 840 4011, www.hotelbelwederski.pl Hotel Reytan ul. T. Rejtana 6, tel. 22 201 6400, www.reytan.pl

apartments

InterContinental ul. Emili Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www. warsaw.intercontinental.com Long and short stay apartments provided by the hotel of the same name. Perks included are the same as those received by hotel guests: i.e. access to the top floor pool, room service, maid service etc.

MaMaison Residence Diana ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 9100, www.mamaison.com/diana A beautiful city center location from the same team behind Le Regina. Short and long term stays.

B&B

Between Us Bed & Breakfast ul. Bracka 20, tel. 22 8285417 (from 10 a.m. to 11p.m.), www.between-us.eu Boutique B&B ul. Smolna 14/6, tel. 22 829 4800, www.bedandbreakfast.pl Chmielna Guesthouse ul. Chmielna 13, tel. 22 828 1282, www.chmielnabb.pl

car rental Avis tel. 22 572 6565, Fredrick Chopin Airport, tel. 22 650 4872, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 575 6583, Reservations: tel. 801 120 010, www.avis.pl Hertz Rent a Car Okęcie Airport, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel.

22 650 2896; mob. 691 411 130. ul.

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Nowogrodzka 27 (D5), tel. 22 621 1360.

Sixt Rent a Car ul. Arabska 9, tel. 22 511 1550, 22 511 1555, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 2031, www.sixt.pl Trust Rent a Car ul. Marynarska 14, tel. 22 843 0580, www.trustrentacar.pl

useful numbers Foreign Assistance Tel. 608 599 999 / 22 278 7777 Information in English, German and Russian available from June 1st to September 30th from 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. seven days a week.

Tourist Information ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (airport), Rynek Starego Miasto 19/21/21A, Pl. Defilad 1 (PKiN), tel.

22 194 31, warsawtour.pl

RESIDENTS relocation companies Express Relocations ul. Szyszkowa 35/37, tel. 22 878 3539, www.expressrelocations.com Euro Move International Movers ul. Kineskopowa 1, Piaseczno, tel. 22 716 5566, www.euromove.pl AGS Warsaw ul. Julianowska 37, Piaseczno, tel. 22 702 1072, www.agsmovers.com DuX Consulting Agency ul. Panieńska 9/28, tel. 22 670 4280 or 502 216 606 www.duxconsulting.com.pl Express Relocations ul. Szyszkowa 35/37, tel. 22 878 3535, www.expressrelocations.com Euro Move International Movers ul. Kineskopowa 1, Piaseczno, tel. 22 716 5566, www.euromove.pl Interdean International Relocation ul. Geodetów 172, Piaseczno, tel. 22 701 7171, www.interdean.com

Move One Relocations ul. Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 8160, www.moveonerelo.com Also immigration assistance, fine art shipping, pet transport and consulting services.

Relo Planet ul. Lwowska 5, tel. 22 658 1958, reloplanet. com International and domestic removals, transport and logistics solutions including office and individual moves, diplomatic posts, small shipments, storage and artwork.

pets Bone Pet Club ul. Jedności 118, tel.

507 144 044, petclub.pl zDogs, cats, rabbits, rodents, birds and many other pets are welcomed inside this ‘hotel and spa’ designed exclusively for their use. Facilities include grooming, lodging, pool, pet taxis and socialization classes. All pet sitters speak fluent English.

IN JANUARY E-LEARNING FOR FREE! Contact us for more details.

polish for foreigners

POLISH LANGUAGE SCHOOL FOR FOREIGNERS

Klub Dialogu Y JANUAR ul. OrdynackaIN13/5, G EARNIN -L E tel. 664 788 004, E! FOR FRE www.klubdialogu.pl www.klubdialogu.pl Contact us tails. de info@klubdialogu.pl for more for Outstanding programs tel. 664 788 004 foreigners living in Poland offer a variety of courses aimed at every level. Using over ten years of experience, the leaning process becomes an adventure at Klub Dialogu.

TAILOR-MADE individual and minigroup courses - intensive - regular - weekend at the school or at your place First Lesson Free Free conversation classes

community Anglican Church in Warsaw ul. Krakowskie Przedmiescie 62, tel.

880 580 628, anglicanchurch.pl English language services follow the order of the

listings / in the city services of the Anglican Communion and are conducted by Rev. David Brown. Services are held each Sunday at 10:30 and 16:00.

International Christian Fellowship ul. Puławska 326, icfwarsaw.org Interdenominational services in English (10:30am, Sunday). Facilities, programs and community activities for all ages: children, students and adults.

InterNations www.internations.org Drawing professionals from home and abroad the mission of InterNations is to bring together ‘global minds’. Now an established part of Warsaw’s social and corporate circuit, their monthly meetings have become Must Do events on schedules round town.

International Women’s Group of Warsaw iwgwarsaw.eu Unites expat women in Warsaw and offers cultural, educational and recreational activities. Meetings are held on the second and fourth Monday of the month.

Professionals in Warsaw meetup.com/Professionals-in-Warsaw New to town? There’s few better ways to give your social life a jump start than popping along to one of the informal drinks mixers conducted

by Professionals in Warsaw. Natives and foreigners of all backgrounds and professions are welcomed – all you have to do is buy your own drinks. Search for them on facebook.

St. Patrick’s Foundation www.irishball.pl The Irish Ball, held on the Saturday closest to St. Patrick’s Day, is legendary in Warsaw as the biggest of the balls. It’s the main annual fund-raiser of the foundation, which distributes the funds raised to various charities over the course of the year.

Taste of the Classics www.fnok.pl A Taste of the Classics is a classical music, fine art and dinner entertainment, held regularly in prime locations.

The events alternate between formal and semi-formal dress and are held in English.

Attendance is by invitation and includes dinner and wine.

Toastmasters International www.toastmasters.org.pl Toastmasters is the international organization for improving public speaking and presentation skills. The local club meets every Wednesday at 19.00.

Guests are always welcome without any obligation apart from a short introduction.

museums Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. 22 596 4100, kopernik.org.pl Interactive, witty and surprising, Copernicus allows visitors to experience an earthquake, blast recyclable objects into space and become a mystery cracking detective.

CSW ul. Jazdów 2, csw.art.pl Situated in a baroque-style castle the center hosts art-

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listings / in the city ists from all over the world. The on-site bookshop is of particular interest for artists and intellectuals. Ongoing till June 14: Piotr Bosacki – The Issue Is Being Handled.

Animated films, musical apparatuses, machines that produce images and sounds as well as ‘spaces designed to arouse a sensual experience’…

Invisible Exhibition Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, niewidzialna.pl Nothing challenges the sense of sight more than a total lack of it. Confused? Head to the Invisible Exhibition to learn first-hand the challenges faced by the blind. This includes everything from crossing the road to ordering a drink in a bar.

Dom Spotkań z Historią ul. Karowa 20, dsh.waw.pl The History Meeting House wins points for frequently excellent exhibitions that cover topics such as ‘rebuilding Warsaw’ and ‘Socialist Realist architecture.’ It won’t take longer than twenty minutes to peruse whatever exhibition is on, but it’s still a very worthwhile diversion and one of the city’s top secrets. Ongoing until October 18: First Photographers of Warsaw: Beyer, Brandel, Fajans. Ongoing until June 28: Wave After Wave: everyday life on board Polish Navy ships during WWII. This exhibition depicts the everyday life of Polish sailors: from crews at work to enjoying their free time.

Jewish Historical Institute ul. Tłomackie 3/5, jhi.pl Officially opened in 1947 the Jewish Historical Institute was created to serve as an archive of Jewish culture in Warsaw. It contains artwork, historical artifacts and important documents from the city’s rich Jewish past.

The Heritage Interpretation Center ul. Brzozowa 11-13, mhw.pl Beginning with a gigantic tapestry of Warsaw circa 1873, this little known venue tells the complex story of Old Town’s reconstruction. Walking over a glass floor, beneath which lies smashed masonry and columns recovered from the ruins, a series of then-and-now slides and pictures document Old Town’s annihilation. If the first section about Warsaw’s physical elimination is poignant, then the others do a fabulous job of sharing the optimism and alacrity that followed.

Legia Museum ul. Łazienkowska 6, legia.com Aside from silverware affirming Legia’s status, find a vast collection of shirts, pennants and paintings (even part of an old floodlight).

Pride of place goes to Legia’s favorite son, 70’s super star Kazimierz Deyna.

Historical Museum of Warsaw Rynek Starego Miasta 28/42, mhw.pl The granddaddy of Warsaw museums is over the worst of a lengthy refit and gradually reopening bit by bit. The ground floor cinema is a must – playing a 20 minute film that details the depressing story behind the destruction of Warsaw.

The Fryderyk Chopin Museum in Warsaw Ostrogski Palace, ul. Okólnik 1, chopin. museum Recognized as one of the most hi-tech museums in Europe, computer chip tickets allow visitors the chance to personalize the museum experience as never before. Over 5,000 objects are present, among them Chopin’s pocket watch, his last piano, a lock of hair and even his death mask.

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Królikarnia ul. Puławska 113A, krolikarnia.mnw.art.pl Fine art galore inside an elegant suburban palace. The young curator has decided to show some forgotten treasures from the rich archives of the National Museum.

The gallery also hosts more contemporary works, such as those by Nicolas Grospierre and Agnieszka Polska.

Museum of Life Under Communism ul. Glucha (opposite Soho Factory), tel.

606 225 525, adventurewarsaw.com Run by the excellent Adventure Warsaw tour guide company, the Museum of Communist Life brings together aspects of communist life through dioramas that present typical living quarters of the time and a milk bar.

Displays are numerous and quirky, and include a restored Saturator machine, a collection of commie hoovers, not to mention medals from the owner’s own family.

A must see!

Polin - Museum of the History of Polish Jews ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl Composed of eight galleries, each covers a different stage of local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day. Covering 4,000 sq/m, highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec synagogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical inter-war Jewish Warsaw street.

Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw ul. Pańska 3, artmuseum.pl The very first museum of modern art in Warsaw, still fighting for a proper location, bravely manages to provide visitors with a display of contemporary Polish and international art.

Ongoing till August 23: Lest The Two Seas Meet. Inspired by the Arab Spring, presents the works of numerous international artists, among them Mona Hatoum, Emily Jacir and Walid Raad. From June 12: After Year Zero.

Explores the rise of two ‘curtains’ in the immediate postwar order – the Iron Curtain in Central Eastern Europe, and the Color Curtain in the post-colonial world.

Museum of Technology Palace of Culture, pl. Defilad 1, muzeumtechniki.warszawa.pl Following a maze-like route in the Palace of Culture, there’s curios aplenty: a Viennese calculator dating from 1898 that’s still in working order; a glowing ‘glass lady’ that lights up to demonstrate the inner workings of the body; communist era sports cars; a WWII Enigma machine.

More pertinent to the younger generation, there’s a selection of vintage phones and laptop computers that hipsters would give their life for, not to mention hilarious TVs from days yore.

National Museum Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars. Ongoing until September 6: The Pope of the AvantGarde. Tadeusz Peiper in Spain, Poland and Europe. The exhibition presents the relationship between avant-garde art and literature of the early 20th century, taking the oeuvre of Tadeusz Peiper as its central point.

The Neon Museum ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org This amazing project brings together the neon lights that once illuminated the city. Among the collection are 35 landmark signs, many of which date from the 60s and 70s.

Palmiry National Memorial Museum Palmiry, palmiry.mhw.pl An excellent multimedia exhibition set next to a cemetery holding the graves of 1,700 Poles executed in the first years of Nazi occupation. The museum tells their forgotten story, with

listings / in the city archival video footage complimented by exhumed exhibits and plenty of background info dealing with the siege and subsequent occupation of Warsaw.

German armored train – apparently the only one of its type surviving in Europe – not to mention the personal carriage of Bolesław Bierut (Poland’s post-war leader), the rusting carcass of a 60s train and interwar steam engines straight out of Thomas the Tank Engine.

Pawiak ul. Dzielna 24/26 What was once a Tsarist prison assumed a doubly sinister function under the Nazis. Some 100,000 Polish political prisoners were held here, 37,000 of which were executed on-site. Split in two sections, cells are found on one side, while on the other the full story of the invasion and occupation.

The Royal Castle in Warsaw Pl. Zamkowy 4, zamek-krolewski.pl Meticulously restored after WWII, highlights inside include the lavishly restored 18th century royal apartments with 22 paintings

by Bernardo Bellotto (known as Canaletto), the Senators’ Chamber in which the Constitution of the Third of May was signed, the biggest collection of oriental rugs in Europe in the tin-roofed palace and two remarkable Rembrandt paintings.

Poster Museum in Wilanów ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 10/16, www. postermuseum.pl With a collection that touches the 55,000 mark, here’s the biggest poster museum in the world – and also the original. Art spans the period from 1892 till 2002, and while the majority is Polish orientated works on display also include those by Dali and Warhol.

Warsaw Rising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl Cope with the crowds to discover the definitive story of the 1944 Uprising. Exhibits range from a full-size replica of a Liberator plane, to a sewer beneath the cinema screen and a slice of bread preserved from 1944.

And don’t miss the ‘City of Ruins’, a five minute 3D film which takes you on an aerial journey over devastated Warsaw.

For panoramic views of Warsaw check the view tower.

Railway Museum ul. Towarowa 1, muzkol.pl Presented in scale model form, in here find hundreds of trains detailing the development of the Polish rail network. Not interested? Then maybe the three model railway villages will stir childhood memories or how about learning about WARS – Polish rail’s buffet division?

Outside, stroll around a remarkable collection of beasts outside. These include a 1942

Wola Museum ul. Srebrna 12, mhw.pl An unexpectedly

amazing museum that’s been turned around thanks to its ambitious, young staff. Once a dank, dusty space, the reinvention includes ‘the room of one object’, whose single exhibit changes each month. There’s the New Varsovians exhibition, dedicated to the young students who arrived to Warsaw in the 1860s and 70s, and the Wola Laboratory, a multimedia exhibition with a focus on the district. All this new wave gadgetry is to be augmented by real objects on the first floor, not to mention an archive of amateur film – the first such archive in Poland Zachęta National Art Gallery Pl. Małachowskiego 3, zacheta.art.pl Probably the most famous gallery in Poland, this Zachęta has a thrilling, and at times controversial repertoire that makes it a must for modern art buffs. From June 2: Filko – Fylko – Phylko. The different stages of Stano Filko’s life are covered in what is being lauded as the most extensive presentation of this Slovakian artist’s life ever to be seen in Poland. From June 13: John Lurie – I am trying to think. Please be quiet. So they say: ‘this presentation of contemporary works by John Lurie constitutes an attempt to reconsider this ’90s icon, to confront this image and show the artist in a new light.’ From June 19: Wild West. History of Wrocław Avant Garde. Nearly 500 works covering the architecture, urbanism, cultural and everyday life of Wrocław from the 1960s to the the present day.

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LOOKING BACK

Time Flies…

This issue our resident history buff takes a potted look behind the story of Warsaw’s airports… BY STUART DOWELL

T

he opening of Chopin Airport’s Terminal A, a shiny steel and glass remodeling of the older terminal built in the early 1990s with its characteristic “beetroot” top, feels like the end of a journey that started over 100 years ago; one that is intertwined with Warsaw’s own tragic and turbulent journey in the 20th century.

Varsovians saw their first ever airplane in 1909 at an exhibition organized on the racecourse on the western side of today’s Polna street. After two failed attempts and demands for refunds, the expectant crowd gasped in wonder as the French-piloted biplane travelled 1,500 meters in a flight lasting just over a minute. Thus, Warsaw now had its very own airport at Pole Mokotowskie.

Over time, the airport took up an increasing amount of space and it became clear that it was holding up the city’s southern development. Therefore, city planners found suitable land for a new airport in the then village of Okęcie.

The new site with its modernist terminal, restaurant, newsstands and exhibition space was befitting of any European nation at the time.

Okęcie was severely damaged in the September 1939 campaign, but the Germans soon set about rebuilding it, constructing a concrete runway and turning it into the largest airbase on occupied Polish territory. During the Warsaw Uprising in 1944, the Poles failed in an attempt to take the

104 Warsaw Insider | JUNE 2015

airport on the first day. The Germans remained fearful that they would lose control of it and that it would be used by the Soviets to launch an airborne assault on the city. Therefore, they blew up the runways and dug up the whole area, leaving it looking like a Swiss cheese.

During communism, passengers at Okęcie could enjoy an impressive terminal building built in the 1960s with a characteristic crystal-style ceiling and mushroom-shaped control tower. The number one attraction was a viewing terrace that was often closed; a fact that was parodied perfectly in the cult film Miś, which featured the sign “The viewing terrace is closed. The nearest open viewing terrace is in Wrocław”. Coming in a close second was the airport bar, which was well-known among city residents as the only place to sell alcohol all night.

In People’s Poland, the airport was a futuristic symbol of luxury and socialist progress and was used for propaganda purposes in many films. Having a job at the airport, or better still in LOT, was highly prized as it offered the opportunity to obtain the most valuable commodity at the time – foreign currency. This was especially so after LOT started operating direct flights to the United States.

In fact, five LOT employees, in addition to crew, were aboard the ill-fated flight LO-5055 on a Soviet-built IL-62M bound for JFK, which crashed on 9 May 1987. The plane suffered cabin decompression and the loss of two engines over Grudziądz and then limped back to Warsaw while the crew dumped fuel, battled fires and struggled with the faulty steering. The flight never made it to Okęcie and crashed on the southern edge of Kabaty forest. 183 passengers and crew died with no survivors in Poland’s largest ever air disaster.

The captain, Zygmunt Pawlaczyk, posthumously received state honors and his were the final words recorded on the black box: “Goodbye. We’re going to die.”

PHOTOGRAPH PAP

“ The airport was a futuristic symbol of luxury and socialist progress”

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