Warsaw Insider April 2015 #224

A Dapper Man Speaks page 16

Warsaw

Ex-Pat Football

Macho Food page 26

Moving? page 19, 20, 24

April 04 price zł.10 INDEKS 334901 ISSN:1643-1723

(224)

2015

(VAT 8% included)

BALMAIN BALMAIN CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN CASADEI HERVE LEGER CHRISTIANISABEL LOUBOUTIN MARANT GIANVITO ROSSI KENZO MONCLER HERVE GAMME LEGER ROUGE RALPH LAUREN ISABEL MARANT SALVATORE FERRAGAMO JIMMY CHOO SIMONETTA RAVIZZA KENZO TOD’S TORY BURCH RALPH LAUREN SIMONETTAVALENTINO RAVIZZA TOD’S TORY BURCH VALENTINO VICTORIA BECKHAM YVES SALOMON

Moliera 2 Moliera 2 tel.: 228277099, www.Moliera2.com

tel.: 228277099, www.Moliera2.com

APRIL 2015 Editor-in-chief Alex Webber

insider@warsawinsider.pl Art Director Kevin Demaria insider@warsawinsider.pl Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com

tening to the voices I sometimes get in my head, I was struck by an idea.

“I know,” whispered Voice No. 1, “if we celebrated women last month, shouldn’t we redress the balance and do the same with men?” Brilliant, I agreed. It seemed so at the time. If nothing else, I have perfected manly arts such as lounging like a lizard with a pizza on my lap. But this issue has been a learning curve – man has changed. It’s no longer appropriate to look like Homer Simpson, slobbery has been substituted by style.

With that in mind, this issue we’ve explored some pressing topics: how to get dressed, the importance of grooming and what women really want. There has been food, as well, with Warsaw’s masculine options given a thorough investigation. Finally, we have not forgotten sport, joining an ex-pat football team and nearly perishing in the process. In short, this edition wasn’t what I expected but immense fun nonetheless. I hope you agree.

INFRONT Opener 7 News 8 Metro 10

FEATURES

Tailoring 12 Grooming 14 Style 16 Coaching 18 Man Food 19 Steaks 20 Wine 22

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Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

Hot Dish 24 Football 26

LISTINGS

Restaurants 35 Cafes & Wine Bars 64 Nightlife 68 Shopping 75 Family 80 Health & Beauty 84 In the City 88

REVIEWS

Aficionado 28 Pociąg do Piwa 29 Ceska 29 Le Cedre 30 Renoma 30 Weles 34

INBACK

Classifieds 93 Map 94 Looking Back 96

Contributors: Piers Bright Gill Boelman-Burrows Stuart Dowell Maria Mileńko Michał Miszkurka Ed Wight Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com ey Account Manager K A. Julita Pryzmont jpryzmont@valkea.com ey Account Manager K Adam Fogler afogler@valkea.com Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com Subscription 12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland.

Orders can be placed through: insider@warsawinsider.pl Printed by Zakład Poligraficzny TECHGRAF Tel. (17) 225-28-69 VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies.

All information ©2015 Warsaw Insider.

on the cover For the Insider’s ‘man issue’, our cover artist celebrates the shift from disheveled to dapper.

Raise a glass to the modern Warsaw man….

(Illustration by Michał Miszkurka)

PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT

Lying awake a few weeks ago, lis-

CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN MEN FAY GIANVITO ROSSI MEN KENZO MONCLER RALPH LAUREN SIMONETTA RAVIZZA TOD’S TOM FORD TORY BURCH VALENTINO VICTORIA BECKHAM YVES SALOMON

BABY DIOR DOLCE & GABBANA KIDS DSQUARED2 KIDS KENZO KIDS MONCLER KIDS RALPH LAUREN KIDS TOD’S KIDS

this month...

COMEDY

Improv Sunday’s Every Sun, 20:00 @ Cafe Niespodzianka, ul. Marszałkowska 7 A theatrical English-language performance group with a focus on improvised comedy. They say: “we’re always looking for talented people to join us on stage.”

For info see: improv.pl

FESTIVAL

19th Beethoven Festival Ongoing till 3 April @ Philharmonic, ul. Sienkiewicza 10 Organized since 1997, and held in Warsaw since 2004, the latest installment of this headline festival sees a host of symphonies, quartets, oratorios, concertos, sonatas and opera during its two week run.

For ticket info and schedule, see: beethoven.org.pl

CONCERT

Telefon Tel Aviv

Editor’s Pick Two Nights With Owen Pallett Winner of the 2006 Polaris Music Prize, this Canadian artist is known for thrilling live performances that involve loop pedals and violin!

21/22 April, Pardon, To Tu, pl.

Grzybowski 12/16

11 April @ Basen, ul. Konopnickiej 6 This Chicago-based electronic act is fronted by John Eustis, a former member of the Nine Inch Nails. With a sound based around ambient techno and glitch, Eustis claims to make music in order to ‘sweat out all the nasty things’.

Tickets from zł. 40 @ ticketpro.pl

FESTIVAL

Warsaw Beer Festival 24-26 April @ Legia Stadium, ul. Łazienkowska 3 Following the overwhelming success of last year’s event the Warsaw Beer Festival returns for a second time this April. As yet news regarding domestic and international exhibitors had yet to be released, so keep checking their web for details: warszawskifestiwalpiwa.pl Tickets zł. 10-20, available on the door

CONCERT

Anastacia 18 April, 19:30 @ Stodoła, ul. Batorego 10 With worldwide album sales exceeding the 30 million mark, the arrival of this

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Warsaw Insider | APRIL 2015

global megastar is widely anticipated.

Her appearance in Warsaw wraps up the first leg of her Resurrection World Tour.

Tickets from zł. 190 @ eventim.pl

CONCERT

Ozric Tentacles 25 April @ Progresja, ul. Kaliskiego 15 Celebrated for their unique ‘psychedelic space rock’, this Somerset instrumental band have sold over a million albums worldwide in spite of never securing the backing of a major label. Their latest album, Technicians of the Sacred, is expected to feature prominently on the playlist.

Tickets details unknown at press time

CONCERT

Mouse on Mars 25 April @ Basen, ul. Konopnickiej 6 Their web bio says it all: “constantly reinventing themselves, they have taken electronica to new heights with a unique blend of sound annihilation, fragmented melodies and an impassioned hatred of conformity.” Nice!

Tickets from zł. 50 @ ticketpro.pl

SPORT

Night Skating 25 April Join thousands of roller bladers as they skate about Warsaw following a 15km route. Starting at 20:30, usually by the Copernicus Monument on Krakowskie Przedmieście, the mass skate concludes at approximately 23:00.

Expect a big crowd for the inaugural event of the season.

For details see: nightskating.waw.pl

CONCERT

Charlie Winston 26 April, 20:00 @ Proxima, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 99A With a sound that’s been described as ‘inspired and creative’, the Londonbased Winston has in the past supported Peter Gabriel and provided the music for a 2008 VW Polo ad. His latest album, Curio City, has enjoyed considerable success in Western Europe.

Tickets from zł. 100 @ biletomat.pl

FESTIVAL

CONCERT

Imany

MEDIA PATRONAGE

26 April, 10:00 @ Pole Mokotowskie Lasting through the day, this annual eco-minded event features workshops, food stalls, recycling stations and all manner of displays and exhibits across the grounds of Pole Mokotowskie. For further info, try to decipher the Polish language website.

27 April, 20:00 @ Progresja Music Zone, Fort Wola 22 Imany’s distinctive voice and soul sound first came to mainstream attention with her debut 2011 release The Shape of a Broken Heart – it went triple platinum in Poland and won her widespread attention. She’ll be singing tracks from that as well as her latest album.

AFRYKAMERA FILM FESTIVAL

Earth Day

Free admission, for details: dzienziemi.org.pl

Tickets from zł. 130 @ eventim.pl

SPORT

Marathon

CONCERT

26 April, 10:00 @ Pl. Piłsudskiego Due to the closure of Łazienkowska Bridge, the marathon assumes a new route this year to alleviate any possible traffic carnage. For details on registration check their English-language website for details.

29 April, 20:00 @ Palladium, ul. Złota 9 The Israeli singer-songwriter says she aims to “take Ladino music to Andalusia and mix it with flamenco,” and in doing so inspire a “musical reconciliation of history”.

For further info, see: orlenmarathon.pl

Yasmin Levy

Kinoteka, Pl. Defilad 1 (PKiN) April 21-26

Highlights of the 10th Afrykamera festival include the appearance of Bonga, a legend of the Angolan music scene. He’ll be performing on April 20th, the night before the festival kicks off in earnest.

Opening night sees a screening of the Oscar nominated documentary Virunga, while other ‘must watch’ films include Waves, which tells the story of the Arab Spring, as well as the premiere of The Stories Of Our Lives. Numerous discussions, workshops and miscellaneous gatherings are planned to accompany the films that make up the core of this event. For a full schedule check: afrykamera.pl

Tickets from zł. 180 @ eventim.pl

www.warsawinsider.pl

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in

What’s hot, what’s not: the faces and stories trending around town CITY BIKES IN NUMBERS

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Million złoty

The city budget allocated to cycling

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Million bikes

Have been rented since Veturilo’s 2012 launch

90,192

People had registered…

By March 1st to use Veturilo

3,469 Bikes rented

On the first day following the winter break

1,304

The No. of times

That Veturilo’s best customer checked out a bike last year!

TRANSPORT

ILLUSTRATION BY MARIA MILEŃKO

On Yer Bike!

Cyclists defied a ruling by City Hall in February outlawing the now traditional end-of-month Critical Mass bike ride around the city. Local decision makers withdrew consent following fears that Warsaw’s fragile traffic arrangements would breakdown following the closure of Łazienkowska Bridge. “We’ll still protect the cyclists,” said a police spokesman, “but the organizers have to be aware that it’s them who will be prosecuted.” Ultimately, the bridge’s enforced recess could prove to be beneficial to Warsaw’s cyclists, with many lobbying the Mayor to use the opportunity to build a bike path running underneath. “Seeing that the bridge needs substantial repairs following the fire,” said one campaigner, “there’ll never be a better time to implement such improvements – it’s now or never.”

While the scheme seems unlikely, it’s proof of the city’s growing bike culture. The number of people using bikes as a means of transport has tripled in the last five years, with the city spending more than ever to accommodate the growing phenomenon. Back on the streets as of March 1st, those at Veturilo – the city’s bike sharing system – anticipate another record breaking year in 2015. (AW)

200

Kilometers

Of cycle paths in the pipeline

196

Rental stations Found in the city

3

Per cent

Of Varsovians cycle

www.warsawinsider.pl

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inFront

news STREET ART

Art Attack

An attempt by French artist Julien de Casabianca to revitalize parts of Praga has met with patchy results after it was reported that some of his works were vandalized within days. As part of an international project, the Frenchman had adorned some of the district’s more ramshackle buildings with processed photographs of paintings found in the National Museum, including those painted by Lempicka, Malczewski and Gierymski.

RESTAURANTS

Star Appeal

A total of 34 Warsaw restaurants were deemed worthy of inclusion in the hallowed Michelin guidebook this March. New entrants singled out for praise numbered Salto, Senses and Signature, while both Butchery & Wine and Brasserie Warszawska kept their Bib Gourmand. Retaining Poland’s only star was the widely-acclaimed Atelier Amaro. It’s not all been good news for them after media outlets revealed that President Bronisław Komorowski had been denied entry to the restaurant.

For his part, chef Wojciech Amaro quickly moved to deny the allegations claiming that the President was always welcome.

Warsaw Shorts

City Hall have confirmed that the first phase of the Bulwary Wiślane project should be completed in June. The ambitious redevelopment aims to regenerate the riverbank and transform it into a social hub, though has been hit with repeated delays. Most recently, the general contractor, Hydrobudowa Gdańsk, filed for bankruptcy. In spite of this, the city has pressed ahead and moved to allay fears of further lags.

Poniatowski Bridge found itself besieged by several unexpected visitors after being overrun by beavers. The fleeting invasion prompted a flood of humorous headlines that declared a ‘Beaver Attack’ on the capital. They’re not the only animal in the news: in March it was revealed that an escaped kangaroo had once again been spotted in the Sadyba suburb. Stefania has been on the run from Dziekanów Leśny mini-zoo since December.

CULTURE

Your Museum Needs You!

A campaign to find exhibits for Warsaw’s Museum of Polish Vodka was launched in March, with the top three donations in line for a cash prize of zł. 1,000. Situated in the former Koneser Vodka Factory, the museum will be the first of its kind in the world. Scheduled to open in 2017, it will form the cornerstone of a mixed-use redevelopment project that will be comprised of retail, residential and recreational units.

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ALL PHOTOS PRESS MATERIAL EXCEPT TOP RIGHT BY JULIEN DE CASABIANCA

A Warsaw bus driver found himself in hot water after a video of his antics made it online. Robert Chilmończyk, whose Facebook page has over 50,000 fans, has become a cult figure known for his rapid banter with passengers. His superiors though were left bemused after a video showed him joking he was 20 times over the limit – “but that’s nothing compared to Friday,” he quipped.

inFront

Metro

Four and a half years after construction began, Warsaw’s second metro line was finally opened to the public on March 8th. Hailed as a masterpiece of modern design, the artwork of Wojciech Fagnor – the only Pole to ever have a solo exhibition at New York’s Guggenheim – features prominently and has left most visitors thrilled…

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PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

A Velvet Underground

www.warsawinsider.pl

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TAILORED MAN

As one door closes another one opens: after four years in Powiśle, cult label Reykjavik District touchdown on edgy Burakowska...

W

hile gentrification might have stalled its creative revolution, you don’t have to go far back to the time Powiśle was being talked about as the definition of urban cool: a place of bars, boutiques and maverick ideas. And nowhere captured the zeitgeist more than Reykjavik District, a cult menswear boutique created by Icelandic fashion designer Olly Lindal and his Polish wife, Ania.

But what happens when an area reaches its artsy zenith? That’s right, everyone wants a piece of it – developers included. With their former venue bulldozed (“To make way for apartments or something,” shrugs Olly), the Reykjavik team have packed their bags and settled north. Repeating the raw style of their previous digs, this boutique finds itself operating in a one-time car garage, with the industrial leftovers acting as a natural foil to all

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the antique chests and eccentric details. Taken on its own, this is a space that bristles with energy and endeavor.

The interiors are reflective of the collection. While there are heavy hints of ‘Scandi-cool’ meets classic, those plucking through the racks note that there’s much more going on with Lindal’s designs: elements of avant-garde, rock star chic for the causal clothing, and suggestions of ‘debonair dandy’ in the more formal attire. The whole shebang feels like a celebration of the unconventional.

But most of all, it feels like fashion that works: clothing that fits all environments and scenarios whilst making an impression. Is that not the whole point of fashion?

Reykjavik District ul. Burakowska 15, reykjavikdistrict.com

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

COOL AS ICE(LAND)

Reykjavik team have packed their bags and settled north... this is a space that bristles with energy and endeavor”

THE ONLY MODERN SOUTH AMERICAN CUISINE IN WARSAW W W W.SALTORESTAUR ACJA .PL

73 Wilcza Street

tel. (22) 58 48 771

BRISTLE CITY

The categorical statement piece this year? An expertly groomed beard. The Insider visits Barberian, the go-to place for aspiring gents…

L

ast year a scientific study (and I’m not making this up) claimed that the planet had approached a ‘peak beard’ stage, i.e., a crossroads whereby the prevalence of beards had reached such a point that they would soon no longer be considered attractive. Well science was wrong. Extravagant frizz, so it appears, has become mandatory amongst Warsaw’s men – just don’t think you can get away with looking like that tramp you saw sleeping at the bus stop.

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Beards, and their meticulous upkeep, have become big news, and that much is evident in Barberian.

Opened last October by musician Adam ‘Nergal’ Darski and life coach Małgorzata Marczewska, this barber shop has become the mothership for Warsaw’s pogonophiles.

“There’s lots of good hairdressers in Warsaw,” says Małgorzata, “but they’re focused on women – barbering is entirely different. For a start, facial hair is different to the hair that grows on the head.”

But don’t think it’s that simple.

“This is one of the oldest crafts in the world,” says Małgorzata, “it involves respect and knowledge, not to mention the transfer of that knowledge.” Leading the frontline in this respect is Łukasz Tarka, a widely acclaimed barber who cut his teeth in London (“Cheap places, expensive places, I worked in them all, I wanted to learn everything”), before being headhunted for a stint in Amsterdam. All the time though he kept a watch on what was happening in Poland: “When I saw things were changing I wanted to be a part of it, so the moment I heard about this place I contacted them for work.”

So why have beards made such a comeback? “It’s a man thing,” answers Łukasz, “they’re part of masculine culture. Of course, I also think people perceive you as a more interesting person when you have a beard.” Małgorzata agrees. “I think beards say something about a male dream,” she says, “but it’s important to take care of them – as a woman it creates an impression of security if you see a man who takes care of his beard. He understands life. He gets it. But beards are also about freedom, about expression.”

By reviving a craft all but eradicated under communism, Barberian have simultaneously sought to resuscitate a whole way of life. “A barber shop needs to have the right atmosphere,” says Małgorzata, “you have to create the type of environment that’s right for a chat, a coffee and a shave.” This has been achieved to great effect by an intuitive design that’s pure ‘man fest’: antlers, a motorbike, antique shaving utensils and black and white pics of epic-looking bristles. It’s a design that’s both humorous and human; ultimately, it causes people to pause their life and disengage from the world.

“It doesn’t matter how old you are, or what background you have, in a barber shop everyone is the same,” says Łukasz, “and that’s a great part of the tradition. It should be a social place without any boundaries. It’s not about beards and hair, it’s a lifestyle thing. Basically, it’s all about having man time.”

Barberian Academy & Barber Shop ul. Emilii Plater 25 and ul. Kredytowa 9

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

GROOMED MAN

YOUR SUIT WILL NEVER BE THE SAME AGAIN

www.Glamorous-Pochette.com contact@glamorous-pochette.com tel. (+48) 798 089 959

DAPPER MAN

RETURN OF THE DAPPER MAN

Define Mr. Dapper’s style…

He’s inspired by the British gentleman. When I was eight my dad took me up to the West End of London for the first time and I was dazzled.

We visited Harrods, Carnaby Street and all that. I loved hearing all the stories about the times and the fashions. We visited Savile Row as well, and he said this is where he had wanted to get his wedding suit but couldn’t afford it at the time. It made an impression on me. Being a 70s London baby, I also found myself

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being influenced by Ska music and its fashion: pork pie hats and checkered trousers. So I’d say Dapper’s style is a blend of that: Jamaican ‘Sunday best’ meets Savile Row. Your style icons?

David Bowie. His style is as eclectic as his music. He’s never been scared of pushing boundaries, yet he never did it for shock value: it was for himself, building his own styles around his music. Then there’s the Motown era guys as well. I

don’t really have any modern day icons, maybe Tom Ford or Oswald Boateng – there’s so much color to his suits: fuschia, emerald, orange.

And then the lining is usually the opposite – the inside is every bit as beautiful as the outside.

The blog: speak…

I’m not knocking the fashion blogs at all, but you look at some and you get the idea the guy is just standing in one position while the photographer walks around him.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY MAGDA BULERA-PAYNE

Trent Payne of the heisdapper.com style blog talks to the Insider about what it takes to be a modern man…

I wanted to do something different.

Professionally, I work as a creative director: basically I tell stories for brands so that they can engage with their audience. So I wanted to do something like that, something that was story based. And that’s what we do, if you notice there’s a beginning, a middle and an end. We shoot around the story and using a fixed lens – you see things from a more honest perspective. But you know what, this is not a blog about fashion. I never talk about the clothes I wear, though I always add the items in the credits. It’s a blog about style and I hope people find it inspirational.

How would you advise someone looking to reinvent themselves as a man about town…

I try to be accessible to every person with the blog – of course there are expensive items, but there’s also things from the high street: I mix and match. As for style itself, well that’s a personification of your individuality. But if you are looking to revamp your wardrobe, then I suggest starting with the basics: a white shirt and t-shirt, a navy blue suit, a pair of jeans, black and brown shoes and crisp white trainers. Once you have those, layer other things on. You can get seven different looks in the space of a week from the same suit by say wearing a cardigan with it one day, a new belt the other. Style is not an expensive thing. You don’t need hundreds of items, just build combinations, introduce your personality, dabble with accessories…

Your flat’s on fire, but you spot the chance to save one item. Run! Hmm, it’d have to be something irreplaceable, so I would go for my first bespoke suit. It’s not just about the quality, the whole experience of getting it was beautiful: being measured for the first time, picking the buttons, lining, stitching…

Just beautiful. Ha, and I’d also be really quick and run back for one more thing – a trilby that was an engagement gift from my wife. It was from the JJ Hat Center in New York, and once more, everything about the process was great: having your head measured, being taken through the history of hats, etc.

The rest can burn!

As for style itself, well that’s a personification of your individuality”

www.warsawinsider.pl

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MAN COACH

method it’s effective. People see the bigger picture and learn that it’s not about tricks and manipulation.

THE DATING GAME

Dating coach and serial entrepreneur Kamal Jahid sits down with the Insider to talk about his work…

What brings you to Poland?

I was offered an internship out here but after two or three months the financial crisis hit and I found myself without work. Prior to that I’d kept a blog and decided to see if I could make a go of that – I literally typed into Google: ‘how to earn money from a blog’. Things went well but then my visa expired and I had to return to Morocco. After everything I had enjoyed in Poland I found it so depressing being back home.

If I’d gone somewhere else for the internship then it would have been a different country, but psychologically it was Poland that I associated with freedom: I was desperate to return.

Finally, I had the chance to come back and decided to use the opportunity to take the blog to the next level – now we get 40,000 hits per day.

And the dating coaching?

It started at university when a girl broke my heart. I was so frustrated at not being able get what I want

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that I started looking at self-help articles online before moving onto books. I used to hate reading but all of a sudden I was hooked. I thought, if this is what I can learn from one book, imagine what I can learn from a hundred! I was reading about anything – confidence, power, charisma – basically, everything I didn’t have. I had severe acne at the time and lacked confidence, but all of a sudden I could feel it growing. Now I’m at the stage where I can share the knowledge that I’ve gained myself.

How does the coaching work?

I socialize people. Most people have amazing personalities and it’s about bringing them out. For my coaching I don’t go into the whole ‘guru to student’ thing, I prefer ‘friend to friend’. That means integrating the client into my circle, hanging out.

We define your weaknesses and then work on them, we face the problem.

Its long-term coaching, not some weekend class, and while it’s a slow

Who are your clients?

Before I take someone on I’ll sit down for dinner with them. The person has to have a passion in life, I’m not going to work with someone who just wants to sleep with women – these people have bad energy. They have a limited vision. No matter what you say to them it’ll always go back to square one with them. I also don’t accept people who are overweight – I’m not a fitness coach, I’m not a magician. I say to them, get your life together and I’ll be waiting. You don’t need to be a supermodel but you need to get into shape. And you know what, if someone comes back after six months and I can see they’ve really made the effort then, woah, I would do everything I can to help him.

As a dating coach you must be a master of the one-liner?

I can tell you thousands of pick-up lines but it’s not about what to say, it’s about how you say it. In every book I’ve written I’m clear from the first page that the secret isn’t about tricks.

It’s about becoming a better person, it’s about having something to deliver to the world: women want to be associated with someone who does amazing things. You need to think of yourself as someone who is here to change the world.

Where do you stand on books like The Game?

At the beginning of my journey I was playing the field. I used many of the tricks in the book and you know what, they work, but only to a point.

You see, after a couple of weeks it dawns on the other person that you’re not the brilliant person you pretended to be. That’s when I realized dating coaching is not about these sort of moves.

For more about Kamal check: kamaljahid.com

MAN FOOD

THE ROAST WITH THE MOST

Warsaw has seen the British Sunday Roast before, but only now does this sacred day of rest(aurants) get the treatment it deserves…

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but there’s no doubting the authenticity. Each weekend find manager Paul Cowen reliving his days as a chef as he cooks traditional British lunches to an expanding audience of homesick Brits and curious others. The results are the human equivalent or hitting ‘system restore’: a heap of pink beef, Yorkshire pudding with a proper crunch and roast potatoes all soaking in a sluice of gravy. Plates get licked clean. Warsaw has made gallant attempts to replicate Sunday Roast before, but only now can it truly declare that it’s actually succeeded. (AW) Pure Sky Club ul. Złota 59 (Skylight Tower)

PHOTOGRAPHS BY ED WIGHT

hat do I miss about Britain? I’ll tell you, those bleary Sunday afternoons where you stock up on newspapers, home in on a back street pub and then spend the rest of the day ploughing through the sports reports in front of a fireplace. Bliss. Of course, sipping flat cider while shaggy dogs snaffle about is just a small part of this Sunday experience, there’s also the food: a roast dinner submerged in thick puddles of gravy and meaty ooze – is there really a better way to kick a hangover in the knackers?

With its rarefied air and refined look, Pure Sky is the reverse of the sort of rickety bars I frequent in England,

www.warsawinsider.pl

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MAN MEAT

The King Of Steaks It’s been described as the purest of pleasures, but there’s more to good steak than lighting a flame under a cow...

That much is understood by Merlinego 5, a classic looking steakhouse that swirls in shadow, brickwork and elegant touches. Settling upstairs, the first of the spring sun sloping through the shutters, we immerse ourselves in an atmosphere that’s all surreptitious conversation and distant clinking glasses.

Unsure of what to choose, our waiter takes the initiative and his team spring into action: within minutes we are inspecting raw hunks of meat as if at the butcher’s: there’s USDA prime beef from New York’s Ottomanelli & Sons and Scottish beef from London’s Smithfield Market. Most visible though is the wagyu ‘kobe’ rib-eye that’s been graded 9+. It feels naughty ordering something so expensive, but opportunities to dine like this don’t present themselves often.

It doesn’t disappoint. The flavors are savored as if we are tasting fine wine. It is an extraordinary dining experience conducted in silence: words, we decide, are pointless.

As our plates are cleared we are both in a daze, as if the meaning of meat has been completely redefined. Already we are conscious that this is a moment that must be cherished, for what we’ve just eaten is the steak of a lifetime…

Merlinego 5 ul. Merliniego 5, merliniego5.pl

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A unique restaurant set in a pre-war house with beautiful gardens.

DOM’s menu is based around local and seasonal produce and is prepared in accordance with Slow Food rules, so the menu changes frequently.

It’s the perfect place for a relaxing family dinner in our garden.

Mierosławskiego 12 Open Tue-Sat 12:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-21:00 Reservations: tel. 517 859 059 www.facebook.com/DOMmadeWarszawa (There is no logo in the entrance, so be careful not to miss us!)

MAN OF WINE

I started with zero, the only head start I had was my wine education”

SEEING RED(and white) The Insider has a quick word with top oenologist Robert Mielżyński…

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ere you to create a timeline to illustrate Warsaw’s affair with wine, 2005 would feature prominently. It was then that the Mielżyński Wine Bar was launched, opening up new horizons to the people of Warsaw. “There wasn’t much else at the time,” remembers the founder, Robert Mielżyński, “so yes, we did create a bit of a trend.” Ever since the name has become synonymous with quality; a benchmark that all wine bars aspire to. “We’ve become a proper brand,” says Mielżyński, “and not just a high-caliber brand, but a high-caliber Polish brand.”

It’s a point that Mielżyński lingers proudly on. Born in Canada to émigré parents, his father’s firm grew to become the largest importer of wine and spirits in the country.

“For me the plan was always to complete the

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cycle and return to Poland,” he says, “but don’t think this was a case of Robert arriving here and having it easy. I started with zero, the only head start I had was my wine education.”

As glamorous as the work sounds, Mielżyński doesn’t skirt the reality: “this isn’t an industry for hobbyists,” he says, “you have to be professional. If you think you can just sit on the sidelines and count the money then you’ve got another thing coming. This is a real business: either you do it right or you don’t at all.” That means a punishing schedule. “You’re working day and night: bringing producers in, talking, negotiating, serving, learning, listening. And yes, it’s hard to listen to the negatives, but you have to. The success of our first branch wasn’t down to luck, it was because we were professional.”

A wine merchant first and foremost, Mielżyński’s stores carry over 500 labels (“from zł. 40 all the way to the big boys!”), though are celebrated just as much for blurring the line between warehouse and bar. Their success has been staggering.

“Poland has an emerging middle class,” says Mielżyński, “they’ve traveled the world and enjoyed the good things in life, and now they’re looking to get those same things here. What I like seeing though is these people are not afraid to ask – that means when they buy, they buy correctly.”

Accessibility has been key to the results.

“A student is as welcome here as much as anyone else,” he says, “we won’t push them out. After all, you know, in five/ten years they’ll be engineers, architects, doctors.

They’ll come back.” It’s a long term approach that has reaped unexpected dividends. “I can’t imagine how many couples have either met or had their first date here and have gone on to have children. Mielżyński’s little children I call them! Maybe there’s 300 of them, maybe 500, it could be even more. And now these parents are bringing their children here – that’s what it’s all about, creating a culture.” That culture has finally taken root.

Gloire De Mon Pere Tour des Gendres 2012 A.O.C. Cotes de Bergerac (France) Grapes: Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot Satin and winsome wine from Bergerac, produced using the grapes of Bordeaux.

Tannins are expressive, though nicely rounded and mature. (zł. 69.50 )

Foradori Foradori 2012 DOC Trentino (Italy) Teroldego Rotaliano The wine is surprisingly intense and dark, yet behind the fresh juiciness there is a wide palette of aromas of herbs and smoke enriched with a strong, deep tannins: it’s one-of-a-kind. (zł. 89.90 )

Meandro Quinta do Vale Meao 2012 DOC Douro (Portugal) multigrape Rich though sophisticated wine from the Portuguese Douro with a distinct character redolent of cherry, a peel of fresh wheat bread and cocoa.

Tannins are strong, but pleasantly rounded.

One of the best wines in terms of price to quality. (zł. 68.50)

Sauvage George Breuer 2013 Qba Rheingau (Germany) Riesling Dry Riesling from the Rheingau with a distinctive raw nature.

Full of aromas of lemon and grapefruit pips surrounded by crystalline minerality and vivid acidity, which constitute its personality. Clean and firm. (zł. 49.50)

Deutz Classic Brut Deutz AOC Champagne (France) Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier An elegant Champagne from Louis Roederer-Deutz. It’s a wine that seduces with its subtle notes of white mulberry and gooseberries. The structure is as soft and light as whipped cream, soothing and stimulating the senses. (zł. 169.00)

www.warsawinsider.pl

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HOT MAN

The Heat Is On My time at the University of Birmingham was a life changing experience: I didn’t leave with any qualifications, but I did leave with a physical dependence on Indian food. True, in those days my tastes were timid, with my palette adjusted to nothing more intense than a perky chicken bhuna or a standard tikka masala. However, that all changed when I came to Poland fifteen years back. It’s said that you only really miss what you can’t have, and in my case that meant spicy food. I’d never cared about it before, but now it was out of reach I craved it. Surrounded by limp flavors, the pursuit of pure heat developed into a mania.

Satisfying this obsession has not been easy.

Sure, internet ordering means that my pantry now resembles a military testing ground for ‘chilies of (m)ass destruction’, but most Warsaw restaurants

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still don’t get it. Ask for something ‘extra hot’ and the staff will think you’re joking; they smile gently as if humoring you, as if you’re a little wrong in the head. There is, however, an exception. Of course, they can play it mild if you wish, but Madras also recognize the need for heat: and by that, I mean the kind that leaves you looking like you’ve been electrocuted. Ask for the vindaloo to be elevated a notch and that’s just what you’ll get, a gloriously volcanic, near death experience that flushes over you like layers of lava. Then, just as you’re asking for mercy, the pain subsides and you’re left to basking in that glorious afterglow all hotheads will know.

Are you man enough?

Madras Al. Solidarności 129/131

Restaurant Dom Polski “ we invite you to our garden�

Restauracja Dom Polski ul. Francuska 11 03-906 Warszawa Tel. 22 616 2488 / 22 616 2432 www.restauracjadompolski.pl restauracjadompolski@wp.pl

FIT MAN/FAT MAN

LIFE’S A PITCH

Saturday mornings have seen a growing band of expats set the alarm clock to turn-out for the most diverse football team in Poland… BY ALEX WEBBER | PHOTOS BY ED WIGHT

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one of the crowd have given me a chance. My teammates don’t have much faith either. The match is in its dying stages, poised on a knife edge, and the opposition striker has just been decapitated by a desperate challenge. Penalty. Dwarfed by the goal, I take up my position between the sticks and await the Exocet that’s due to come screaming towards me any moment now. There’s a breathless hush and then… BANG! I’ve dived the wrong way but the ball blasts off my knee and orbits into space. The whistle peeps and jubilant spectators spill onto the pitch. I’m carried off shoulder high, whoops and hollers echoing all around. I am a hero, the man of the moment.

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Unfortunately for me, that moment was in 1994.

Twenty-one years on and my football ability has vanished – the only people who are going to be carrying me off nowadays are the Red Cross. It’s 11:10 a.m., and rather than following my standard Saturday routine (bed, curry, back to bed), I’m instead panting around a pitch, chasing shadows and getting entangled with members of my own side. On the occasions I get the ball I send it spinning into touch.

If there is a crumb of comfort then it is that I am not alone. Today’s match has seen numbers swelled by a few of the troglodyte night creatures from the Tortilla Factory’s smoking room, and their leaden touch and

the only people who are going to be carrying me off nowadays are the Red Cross”

late tackles are in perfect sync with my own diminished talents. One lad hasn’t slept, while another is clomping about in outsized trainers borrowed from a friend. Me, I just look like I’m having a medical emergency. Could this really be what Pele called the beautiful game?

But not everyone is a shambles. To my consternation there are just as many players who haven’t lost their touch, and there’s no shortage of deft flicks and raking passes being pinged across the pitch; as I gasp for oxygen on the sideline a daring shot from the halfway line cannons off the crossbar drawing sporting applause from both sets of players. A minute later a silver-haired Dutchman executes a textbook Cruyff turn…

Organized by Aberdeen fan Grant Fisken, the weekly

footballing meet-up presents a curious range of skill, fitness levels and general competency. “There’s a mix of ages and talent,” admits the Scotsman, “though we usually manage to balance the teams well to accommodate everyone. Playing on Saturday mornings there are hangover risks and no-shows, but we name and shame them on Facebook to keep that in check!”

Born at the start of the year, the team has grown quickly. “Back in January a few people from the InterNations group tried to organize a game but only eight people turned up,” says Fisken. “Afterwards, a few of us mentioned how we were looking for a regular game so we decided to set up a Facebook group to see if we could do a better job in getting players together.”

The answer has been a resounding yes. “It started as friends and colleagues,” says Fisken, “but because the group is public on Facebook, random others have found us and joined – it’s amazing how many people are looking for a game of football in Warsaw.” Within two months they’ve hit over 70 members, with usually about 14-20 diehards appearing every week. And a jumbled bunch it is: “regards nationalities,” says Fisken, “take your pick from Britain, Ireland, Poland, Ecuador, Belarus, Nigeria, Chile, Italy…” The list goes on. “It’s great to have so many countries represented,” remarks Fisken, “as they all bring different styles and rivalries to the banter.”

“The games are played in a good spirit,” says the Scot, “though with a definite element of casual competitiveness!” With full-time called the exhausted players troop off to the changing rooms, before retiring to the pub for a post-match analysis that has been known to last as long as twelve hours. Team spirit, it appears, remains the most valued commodity. See for yourself and sign-up on FB at Hobby Kicker – Warsaw. www.warsawinsider.pl

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LISTINGS RESTAURANTS 35 CAFES & WINE BARS 64 NIGHTLIFE 68 SHOPPING 75 FAMILY 80 HEALTH & BEAUTY 84 IN THE CITY 88

The Big Smoke

A high end cigar store / whisky lounge with elite brands from Cuba, Dominica, Honduras, Mexico and Nicaragua. The perfectly formed back rooms are all Chesterfield sofas, wood paneling and stripy wallpaper, and positively gush with prosperity. For the briefest of moments, the Aficionado Room allows all to live the dream of being an industry leader or high-flying big cheese‌ Aficionado Room

ul. Wilcza 26, aficionadoroom.pl

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REVIEWS Hop To It

Ursynów gets crafty

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t’s been called Warsaw’s ‘bedroom suburb’, and for several years that’s exactly what Ursynów was: a place to sleep, a place to die. But already a new chapter of the area’s evolution is underway. Conscious of the dense proliferation of young professionals, new businesses are launching and these have gone beyond the standard grocery chains and baby buggy stores. Take Pociąg do Piwa... True, from the outset expectations are kept in check: positioned in an anonymous ground floor unit one suspects the worst – a lifeless void. As it turns out, however, it’s anything but. Perfectly formed, its small size acts in its favor: it takes a scattering of people to create an atmosphere while the beer does the rest.

With 12 taps it’s not Warsaw’s most ambitious offer, but the variety wins plaudits. This applies in particular to the fridge, a thrilling deviation from tap bar norms. Heeding the wisdom of Łukasz, the barman, we opt for Beavertown, an East London artisan brewery that’s taken to presenting its work in colorful tins squiggled with spaceships and skulls. We make short work of their catalogue: there’s the crisp 8 Ball, a rye IPA, followed by the light and grapefruity Gamma Ray APA. Not even the 20-odd price tag can deter us from trying the Black Betty, a black IPA that the barman announces to be a personal fave.

Originally, the plan had been to tour Ursynów’s ‘Beermuda Triangle’: the Czech-oriented Vyceska and another new tap room with some impossible name. But that plan is in tatters. Filled with ‘small bar bonhomie’, leaving seems absurd. So we don’t. That Ursynów’s once barren wastes now house a bar capable of stopping a pub crawl in its tracks is high praise indeed. (AW) Pociąg do Piwa

ul. Dereniowa 2, pociagdopiwa.pl

i Czech Mate?

Service hits the bottom of the barrel…

f I was ever to disown a child, I don’t think the pain could be greater than writing these words. I love the Czech Republic and I love Czech beer just as much. Most of all though, I love their tankovy beer: unpasteurized and so fresh it’s like supping from the bosom of the brewery. So yes, I wanted to love Ceska, but instead, I wouldn’t mind if it was hit by an earthquake.

The place itself looks formulaic but fine nonetheless (lots of wood and glinting copper tanks), and the beer is the business.

That includes a grand milk pour, a beer that’s all creamy froth that you can sink down in seconds. But that’s part of the problem.

You’re likely to be drinking so much of it that the staff can’t keep up. With table service only you’re in the hands of these staff, and here they’re the most hapless individuals you’re liable to find.

I am not a little prince, I do not demand undivided attention or simpering service. I’ve worked as a barman, I’ve worked as a waiter, and I fully understand the trials that they face. This though, this was something else. First, Ceska make you feel invisible and insignificant. As the clock ticks on those feelings are replaced by simple irritation. Eventually, you just want to scream.

I’ve no doubt that Ceska will post impressive end-of-year figures, but I shan’t contribute to them. Warsaw has equally good beer elsewhere that’s served in a stress-free environment where you leave feeling valued – I’ll be drinking in those places. (AW)

Ceska

ul. Chmielna 35, ceska.pl

www.warsawinsider.pl

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Hummus Gets A Makeover Of all the fads to have swept Warsaw, has there been a more half-hearted one than last summer’s fleeting affair with hummus? True, some places did it well and a few did it right, but on the whole what we were served looked (and tasted) like cement mix. The intention was there, just the execution was lacking.

Not that this has ever been problem at Le Cedre.

One of the old anchors of Warsaw’s culinary scene celebrate their 18th birthday this year, and to do so they’re reminding the capital how real hummus is done. “For a start,” says Tony, the Lebanese owner

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and founder, “we specifically use imported Canadian chickpeas: they’re bigger than the rest.” Neither are there any shortcuts, with 48 hours dedicated to the soaking process alone. Next comes the boiling, rinsing and blending stage. It’s a painstaking procedure but one that culminates in the most authentic hummus in Poland.

This year, to coincide with their birthday celebrations, Le Cedre have gone the extra step, jazzing up their sacred recipe with 18 new flavors that lend color and zip to this Middle Eastern mainstay. Served in

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both normal and ‘taster’ portions, find an eclectic range of tastes that incorporate everything from salsa and ginger to jalapeno and curry. Our runaway favorite? The harissa hummus, a beautiful dish spiked with spicy, tangy flavors. What about you?

Le Cedre Al. Solidarności 84, tel. 22 618 8999 & Al. Soliadarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166, lecedre.pl

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1.Hummus Sejouk 2. Hummus Curry 3. Hummus Pesto 4.Hummus Feter 5. Hummus Makanik 6. Hummus Jalapeno 7. Hummus Salsa 8. Hummus Harissa 9. Hummus Sbanekh 10. Hummus Labneh 11. Hummus Beirut

12. Hummus Shmanadar 13. Hummus Kebbeh 14. Hummus Ginger 15. Hummus Toum 16. Hummus Banadura 17. Hummus Zeitun 18. Hummus Balilah

www.warsawinsider.pl

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REVIEWS A Dream Team

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

The Insider finds food & mood make the perfect partnership at Renoma‌

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enoma: I’ll get what I don’t like out of the way first, so hand me a pen, pass me a postage stamp to write on and then fetch yourself a magnifying glass – you’re not going to find much. At a push, I’m going to say I don’t like the door mat in the entrance: “Life is Good” it announces. No it isn’t, I want to point out, life is anything but good. Not if you’ve had the kind of morning I’ve had, waking up to find a kebab in my shoe – what the hell happened last night?

Puzzling over what I might have done fills me with a sense of overwhelming doom, but the clouds lift as a mango smoothie lands on the table. Rejuvenation washes over me. Hope. For the first time since stepping into Renoma I am able to consider the surroundings. The setting is soothingly stark yet at the same time intimate and snug: lots of concrete and overhead ductwork but with several punches of color – not least from an oversized picture of an emu. A speech bubble from its beak exclaims: “Hello”. The reaction is to smile.

The smile is repeated when the food arrives. The boat has been pushed out, and for me it’s a 300 gram ribeye seasoned for 60 days. Served on a hefty wooden slab, it’s the man food my body is calling for: full of big flavors and meaty chew. Accompanying my cow is a steel basket of thick-cut chips, and a bowl brimming with fresh salad. I feel re-humanized.

My partner has opted for the lunch deal, which is another surprise. I harbor a lingering mistrust of these offers, primarily because local price wars mean most are rolled out conveyor belt-style without thought or attention. This is a trap that Renoma carefully side-step. I take a dip of the soup, and am hit

“ It’s not just the food though, it’s the mood I like” by a burst of flavor: red cabbage, red wine, garlic and balsamic.

It’s a marvel, and just about the best soup I’ve put in my mouth for a rather long time. Then there’s the ceviche, served with lightly toasted bread and a drizzle of lime and beetroot sauce.

There it is again, that rush of punchy, fresh flavors. That much of this, like the rest of the menu, is gluten-free is a nod to the owner’s principles.

It’s not just the food though, it’s the mood that I like. Living as I do, in the concrete wilderness of Muranów, I miss having a place like Renoma: a catch-all solution, whether you just want to chill-down with a Prosecco for some afternoon ‘me’ time, or head out for an evening date with a beautiful stranger. It’s a venue that suits all purposes at all times of day. Most of all, it’s a place that feels positive, a place where heart and mind work seamlessly together. Leaving, I see that door mat again, and think to myself, yeah, maybe they’re right, maybe life is good.

And that, I have to admit, is the ultimate tribute. (AW) Renoma Lipowa 7A. tel. 22 692 7239, open Mon-Fri 8:00-22:00, Sat-Sun 9:00-22:00, www.bistrorenoma.pl www.warsawinsider.pl

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Heart of Darkness

Were it not for the decorative fire column signposting the entrance, you’d think the doorway marked a porter’s secret nook: yeah, the kind filled with broomsticks, buckets and dirty magazines. Instead, a swing of the door takes visitors plunging down a blacked-out stairwell and into a basement that emerges from the darkness like a decadent Tsarist relic: glinting chandeliers glimmer over deep leather sofas, their subtle light casting a glow over an immaculate clientele comprised of architects, fashion bloggers and bearded hotshots – immediately you realize it’s a place aimed at adults (with prices to match).

Befitting the venue, the artisanal cocktails are a work of elaborate craftsmanship, and incorporate everything from elite liquors to strips of bacon and flower petals. Hefty bills are par the course, yet you leave with no regrets.

Weles

Pictured: Prudish Prune – based on Jamaican rum this dazzler come with a subtle plum flavor that gently develops with aftertaste.

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PHOTOGRAPH BY FILIP BONDER / GRUPA WARSZAWA

ul. Nowogrodzka 11

restaurants KEY

NEW & NOTEWORTHY

$ zł. 30 (per main) $$ zł. 30-55 $$$ over zł. 55 New listings are in RED Best of Warsaw Award Winner

AVE PIZZA PIĘKNA 56 (ul. Piękna 56) After experiencing landslide success in Powiśle the Ave team have listened to the market and expanded to the center.

While pizza still plays a prominent role, their newest location is more serious and sophisticated in its culinary intent. Dishes like prawns in parma ham win blanket approval, while the semifreddo stop you in your tracks.

african american asian balkan & russian british burgers cheap eats cooking schools cuban french german greek & turkish indian international italian japanese & sushi jewish latin & mexican middle eastern polish scandinavian specialty food shops steak houses thai whole foods

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Insider writers do not accept any form of payment in return for favorable reviews.

african TOTOMATO (ul. Piękna 28/34) A one-time contestant of the Top Chef program, chef Marcin Piotrowski grabs the limelight once more with his reemergence at Totomato. Branded a ‘deli, bistro and culinary academy’, this standout champions ideas of slow food and healthy living: the Mazurian farmed snails are exceptional.

Café Baobab (H4) ul. Francuska 31, tel. 22 617 4057, open 10:00-23:00, www.cafebaobab.pl The work of former basketball player Aziz Seck, Baobab brings the tastes of Senegal to Saska Kępa. The mafe yap – beef stewed in peanut sauce – is as interesting as it sounds, and best enjoyed during their bi-monthly Saturday night concerts. $ www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / restaurants La MaMa Africa (C1) ul. Andersa 23, tel. 22 226 3505, open Mon 13:00-24:00; Tue-Thu 11:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-last guest; Sun 12:00-23:00 Things we like: African Star beer and the traditional stews. Things we don’t like: the goat meat.

But that’s not a criticism of the cooking, rather an admission we don’t like goats in general – dead or alive. Those who don’t fancy experimenting with gizzards and heads make do with dishes like yam porridge or sweet and spicy coconut rice. It’s the very definition of casual, and something of a focal point for Warsaw’s African community. $$

american Blue Plate Chicken (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18, tel.

794 494 477, open 7:00-3:00 The aim at Blue Plate is to combine slow food with soul food: a big call that goes to plan. There’s not too much choice, but points go to their healthy take on British breakfast, not to mention their homage to all things chicken: wings, strippers and assorted bits and bobs.

Looking completely casual and at ease with itself, this little nook (small bar downstairs, seats crammed in upstairs), is exactly what Warsaw needs: simple, consistent food and natural ingredients served at moderate prices. $ Brooklyn Restaurant & Bar (C4) Al. Jana Pawła II 18 (Rondo ONZ), tel. 22

114 3434, open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-23:00 Gone are the fancy pants culinary creations once found in the basement, ousted in favor of a menu of pimped-up soul and street food, salads and steaks. This means fresh tacos – one with hangar steak and the other with battered tilapia – not to mention Mito’s Beef Ribs and 100% beef dogs. The ground floor burger bar is more prosaic, offering a standard line-up of burgers and wings: many swear they’re the best to be found. $$ Champions Sports Bar (D5) Marriott Hotel, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 5119, open 12:00-24:00, www. champions.pl While the concept and style look dated, there’s no faulting the attention to detail – wherever you look (aside from under the table), there’s a TV. The heavy décor brings to mind the trans-Atlantic sports bars of the 90s, with glinting trophies, whirring machines, clacking pool tables and a cacophony of commentaries. Hell, there’s even a boxing ring. But you can’t fault their consistency: the food is always on-point, the staff are pro, while the generous floor plan makes it suitable for unwieldy groups of large and loud lads. $$ Hard Rock Café (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, open daily 9:00-24:00, www.hardrockcafe. pl Instantly recognizable by the giant neon guitar outside, Hard Rock has a pierced staff of skater boys and rock girls and a menu that

is, if nothing else, completely reliable. Peruse rock’n’roll swag that includes Joplin’s blouse, Prince’s guitar and Shakira’s pants. $$ Someplace Else (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6710, open Mon-Thu 12:00-01:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 12:00-24:00, www. someplace-else.pl Favoring a stark concrete look, SPE were once a legend of 90s/00s Warsaw. Things have tamed down since that ex-pat heyday, but this remains a noteworthy choice for live MOR rock and zippy Tex Mex food. $$ T.G.I. Friday’s (B3) al. Jana Pawła II 29, tel. 22 653 8360, open Mon & Tue 11:00-23:00; Wed-Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-23:00 The steaks are a miss-and-miss affair, and even the burgers can’t compare to Warsaw’s armada of burgeries. And the interiors are just as you’d remember: crass, vulgar and stuck in the 90s.

Why do people bother? $$

asian Asia Tasty (C3) pl. Żelaznej Bramy 1, tel. 22 654 6120, open 9:00-21:00 One of the great secrets of culinary Warsaw – for those In The Know this is the place for cheap, cheerful Asian food.

Not that it looks like much, this is as basic as interiors get; leave the hot date outside while you pick-up a takeout. $

ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 97 07 www.cesarski-palac.com.pl Cesarski Palace has thrived in Warsaw for 18 years – from the outset we were the first to offer authentic Chinese dishes, including our signature Peking Duck which comes baked in a custom-made oven and served with pancakes, cucumbers, por and a special sauce.

Expect personalized service and special attention from the chef inside a restaurant sensitive to Feng Shui requirements. There’s nothing comparable to our perfect tastes!

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listings / restaurants Bliss Restaurant (D2) Rynek Mariensztacki, tel. 22 826 3210, open daily 12:00-22:00 Longevity aside, Bliss (alive since ’95) boast classically cliche interiors that make dramatic use of dragons and buddhas. Inconsistent accuse some, though you’ll struggle to find better Chinesestyle ribs. $$ Canton (B2) ul. Smocza 1, tel. 22 838 3823, open daily 12:00-22:00, www.canton.warszawa.pl Here’s what Chinese restaurants used to look like in the days of Bruce Lee: filled with dragons and lanterns, this place is an outright assault on your sensory system. Wokking away for over a decade, it’s actually not a bad place if you want an MSG booster. The Gong Bao chicken gets approval. $$ Cesarski Pałac (D2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 9707, open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 12:30-23:00; Sun 12:30-22:00, www.cesarskipalac.com A rouge tinted Chinese restaurant whose design even incorporates a footbridge. Widely acclaimed, this 18-year-old restaurant combines Sichuan and Cantonese cuisine to serve a variety of dishes in an elegant backdrop. The Dim Sum are something else. $$ Du-Za Mi-Ha (D4) ul. Widok 16, tel. 22 447 2424, open

Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-22:00 A compact Vietnamese joint noted for fresh, healthy nem filled with crunchy, perky fibers.

The pho, on the other hand, is disappointing – according to one reader, “awful”. Prices begin at around zł. 10 and don’t go far north of zł. 20. You get what you pay for. $ Papaya (E4) ul. Foksal 16, tel. 22 826 1199, open 12:00-24:00, www.papaya.waw.pl A place of precise lines and slick finishes, Papaya has a varied menu that uses influences from all over Asia, though particularly Thailand. But the star attraction is Preecha Wongsomboon, a Thai chef who fuses cookery with cabaret from behind a teppanyaki grill – his skills draw gasps.

But between the honking horns and nifty knife work it becomes clear this is no novelty show: the food is top notch. $$ Patera (C4) ul. Świętokrzyska 36, tel. 535 333 123, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00; Sun 11:00-23:00, www.patera.com.pl The center pin is a semi-circular bar, above which lamps hang from a ceiling made out of old Coca-Cola crates. There’s palm fronds, mismatching seats, cheerful colors, exposed pipes and industrial chains. Sacks of Haruka rice adorn one end, and on the other there’s floor-to-ceiling windows. It feels right, as does the food – a confident combination of sushi and Thai. We ordered fried beef, and were dealt a generous portion full of pleasing,

punchy tastes, sticky rice and a deep, aromatic sauce. Just as good is the green tea ice cream, both cleansing and delicious. $$ Pekin Duck ul. Drawska 29A, tel. 22 412 8988, open 12:00-22:00 Looks like a typical Chinese – i.e., like a 1980s New Year’s Eve ball – and the service is carnage; expect lots of miscommunication and truculent attitude. The food isn’t bad, though it’d be interesting to know how many pigs feet they actually ever sell. $$ Silk & Spicy (D5) ul. Żurawia 16/20, tel. 22 629 7012, open Mon-Fri 11:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-2:00, www.silkandspicy.pl If you don’t benchmark Silk & Spicy against what you’d eat in Asia (and you really shouldn’t), then you might enjoy it. “The curry was on taste-wise,” said our disappointed graphic, “but the cream cheese didn’t work in the sushi and the kmichi-style salad served at the beginning was very pedestrian for such a place.” $ Spring Roll (D4) ul. Szpitalna 3, tel. 519 828 788, open Mon-Fri 11:00-22:00; Sat 12:00-23:00 There’s been a flush of Asian eateries around Warsaw, though few disappoint as much as Spring Roll. That their signature dish – you’ve guessed it, spring rolls – doesn’t score much beyond six out of ten, what hope the rest of the menu? The teriyaki chicken might as well be renamed teriyaki chicken giblets, and comes with the addition of the worst ingredi-

Restauracja / Bar / Klub

ul. Nowy Świat 58, Warszawa | Al. Jana Pawła 9-11 (Aleja Topolowa), Gdynia www.bollywoodlounge.pl / Polub nas na Facebooku

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listings / restaurants ent ever devised: steamed cauliflower. $ Toan Pho (D4) ul. Chmielna 5/7, tel. 888 147 307, open Mon-Fri 9:30-21:30, Sat-Sun 10:00-21:30 Toan Pho’s bowls of soup with rice noodles come highly recommended; as does the chaos intrinsic to this type of casual Asian eatery. The short menu is in Vietnamese with Polish decoding – although you can ask for an English version. $ Yummy (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 797 830 639, open

10:00-21:00, www.restauracjayummy.pl Formerly something of an Insider favorite, recent changes have not been for the better. Sure, we can live with the remodeled cut-price interior (turn the lights down, could you?), but the food? That’ll remind you of the nasty little Asian cabins that were once so prolific about town: greasy, gloopy and cloying. $

balkan & russian Banja Luka (E8) ul. Szkolna 2/4, tel. 22 828 1060, open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.banjaluka.pl Lots of clunky timber and imported ceramics set the scene at this eatery, a Balkan stalwart that’s known for its economical pricing structure and bulky portions. Grilled meats are prominent and the food largely reliable. $$ Babooshka (E3) ul. Oboźna 9, lok. 102, tel. 22 406 3366, open 12:00-22:00, www.babooshka.pl Looking intimate and woodsy Babooshka serves up dollops of simple Russian food to a budget conscious crowd. The bacon and tomato scented solyanka soup is a thick broth best suited for Warsaw’s long, windy nights. $

Because Warsaw Just Got Hotter Classic Indian Cuisine With A Funky Twist ul. Zurawia 22, tel. 501 400 386, www.rain.pl

Restauracja Gruzja (D4) ul. Chmielna 5, tel. 729 460 761, open Mon-Sun 12:00-23:00, smakigruzji.pl So good that our Georgian connection claims it to be every bit as good as back home.

The khachapuri wins big points, but so too the badrijani – eggplant slices rolled and filled with a mix of walnuts and Georgian spices. And then there’s the chinkali, every Georgian’s favorite dough purse of broth and meaty goodness. $ U Madziara (B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 620 1423, open Mon 11:30-20:00; Tue & Wed 11:30-21:00; Thu & Fri 11:30-22:00; Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, www.umadziara.pl U Madziara looks like it took two days to decorate. No-one goes here to marvel at the interiors though, they go in the knowledge that they’ll find great food at prices all bank cards can support. Chef Gabor’s signature goulash is one of life’s simple pleasures. $ Yugo (B4) ul. Sienna 83 (enter from Żelazna),

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tel. 694 109 379, open 12:00-20:00 You feel alive just being here: big on Colgate white colors, vintage tourist agency posters and bright stickers, Yugo is just about the cheeriest eatery you’ll come across on a dour Warsaw day. Presenting the food of the former Yugoslavia, this Balkan bolt hole specializes in meaty dishes served in traditional bread. $

british British Bulldog (D4) ul. Krucza 51, tel. 22 827 0020, open 11:00-1:00, www.bbpub.pl The pub design is wonderful, and straight out of Midsomer Murders with its Chesterfield sofas and Cutty Sark mirrors. But it’s been a downhill disaster since they lost the original management team.

What could have become Poland’s original gastro pub now serves greasy burgers and, judging by the stench at the bar, lots of food that’s way over-fried. $$ Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640, open Mon-Fri 11:00-last guest; Sat-Sun 10:00-last guest, www.legendsbar.pl It’s a British pub first and foremost, but don’t forego the kitchen either. The all-day breakfast is a great way to stoke up your drinking powers, while other dishes of note inc. pies, sausages and mash and, of course, fish and chips. $$

burgers Barn Burger (D4) ul. Złota 9. tel. 512 157 567, open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat 13:00-22:00; 13:00-21:00, www.barnburger.pl Retaining a loyal crowd ever since their 2012 entry on the burger circuit, Barn Burger offer a loud and lively atmosphere and much celebrated burgers with names such as Heart Attack and Muppet.

The list by the door notes the results of their frequent eating competitions. $ Bobby Burger (C4) ul. E. Plater 47, tel. 785 833 603, open 12:00-22:00, bobbyburger.pl It’s become the dominant force on Warsaw’s burger map, which all things considered is quite perplexing. With so many franchise outlets to their name it’s hard to keep a check on consistency, though it appears the Emili Plater branch is the best of the bunch. Seeing it’s burgers they specialize in, it says a lot that their fries are the bright point. $

listings / restaurants Burger Bar (E10) ul. Puławska 974/80 (enter from Olkuska), tel. 780 094 076, open Tue-Thu 12:0021:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-22:00, burgerbar.waw. pl Warsaw’s first legitimate burger spot was the talk of the town when it first opened up in 2012, only to have its thunder stolen when 100 copycats opened in their trail. But this lot have kept plugging away, sticking to their guns with little song and dance. Intimate and unassuming, it’s for good reason they’ve retained a loyal core of fans – if the words masterpiece can be applied to a burger, then their green chili burger is just that. $ Bydło i Powidło (A5) ul. Kolejowa 47, tel. 22 400 48 44, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-21:00 Set in a modern glass prism, here’s a place that’s realized you can’t get away with just serving burgers anymore (though here, they’re very good indeed). Unfortunately, the steak part of the menu just isn’t there yet.

Między Bułkami (D4) Al. Jerozolimskie 23, tel. 22 126 0159, open 11:00-23:00 You want to yell, “stop opening burger joints!” But ‘Between the Buns’ is one of those additions we really don’t mind: there’s nothing original about the menu, nor the presentation, but the quality is a solid 8/10. $ Taste Burger (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 22/28, open 12:00-22:00, tasteburger.pl Set in the pavilion bars behind Nowy Świat, Taste Burger use seasoned beef and pride themselves on their ‘honest’ ingredients. Their growing popularity is evidence of a philosophy that works.

Warburger (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1. Open Mon-Sat 12:0020:00; Sun 12:00-19:00, www.warburger.pl While Warsaw has lost its appetite for burgers, you wouldn’t necessarily tell by popping in WarBurger. Set inside a diminutive cabin, join the scrum for jazzed-up burgers that use slow-food ingredients. If not the best, they’re most certainly up there. $ Queen Burger (E5) ul. Hoża 1a, tel. 733 142 492, open Sun-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-3:00 A new face over last summer, and one joyously received

by Warsaw’s burger aficionados. The look screams US roadside diner, but inside it’s all young city style mavens. The choice extends to house specialties such as gringo, teriyaki and

femiburger, though our advice to meatheads is to simply stick to the classic cheeseburger: it’s a towering stack of ultra-satisfaction. We’ve experienced nightmarish waiting times, but like WarBurger, that’s just added proof they’re doing something very right. $

Ziggi Point (B4) ul. Pańska 59, tel. 696 145 735, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-20:00 Diners are summoned to the counter to collect their order via a buzzer, before settling down to enjoy what has emerged as a real candidate for Warsaw’s best burger. The fiery Desperados is as perfect as a burger gets, and best twinned with a Curiosity Cola from the Fentimans brand. Steaks and wings also available inside a cool diner setup. $

cheap eats Bar Turecki “Efes” (H4) ul. Francuska 1, tel. 22 616 2580, open daily 11:00-21:00. ul. Aleje Niepodleglości 80, tel.

22 898 3001, open daily 11:00-22:00 So it’s a kebab shop, but when the kebabs are this good they’re well worth the listing. Either join the queue outside, or head indoors to sample the smattering of grill food and salads. $ Bistro Berlin (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 43, tel. 601 166 566,

open Mon-Sat 10:00-2:00; Sun 11:00-24:00 Authentic German wurst plus Belgian-style frites served inside a busy off-license. If eating amid people queuing for booze doesn’t flick your switch, then order from the streetside hatch.

Hummus Bar (B4) ul. Żelazna 64, tel. 723 058 223, open 11:00-19:00, www.hummsubar.pl Much like the lime green interior, the concept is simple and straightforward: hummus, falafel and fresh pitta breads served to a busy lunchtime crowd. There’s nothing more to say other than it’s utterly delicious. $ Kurczaki (D7) Oleandrów 8, open Sun-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00 If you like your birds spitroasted then look no further than Kurczaki, a budget eatery whose specialty is chicken.

Wait it out in sweltering temperatures before being rewarded by ace chicken cooked in varying sizes and styles: depending on the day, that could mean in beer or in Thai or Jamaican sauces. $ Manekin (C3) ul. Marszalkowska 140, tel. 22 826 0753, open Sun-Thu 10:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:0023:00, www.manekin.pl Originally founded in Toruń, this pancake house chain is a national phenomenon – at times, queues for a table snake outside. The menu touts dozens of pancake options served in sweet and savory form (there’s even a spaghetti version…),

Exotic Moroccan Tajines & Couscous Mandi Oven + Charcoal Grill Enjoy the unique taste from Morocco and the Arab World HeyooDubai Restaurant Al. Jana Pawla 45/54 Tel. 535 075 770 Open daily 11:00-23:00 www.facebook.com/heyoodubai; www.tagine.pl

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listings / restaurants and most agree they’re worth the ridiculous waiting times - waits in excess of 20 minutes (and considerably more) are the norm. $ Meat Love (D5) ul. Hoża 62, tel. 500 149 210, open MonThu 10:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-last guest; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.meatlove.pl Not ones to stagnate, Meat Love have expanded in size, meaning there’s now plenty of room to sample their artisan sandwiches – the roast beef will make your knees tremble. But with this weather, most head to the shaded pavement terrace. Do so as well, and with a craft beer for company. $ Mr. Pancake (E3) ul. Solec 50, tel. 501 237 461, open MonSat 11:00-10:00; Sun 12:00-8:00, www.mrpancake.pl You’re just going to love their pancakes, with their fun, wacky look and creative toppings (M&Ms, funny faces traced with icing sugar, and lots of chocolatey stuff). They’re the sort of pancakes you’d get if Bart Simpson got stoned and decided to make some food – brilliant. $ Okienko (D7) ul. Polna 22, open Mon-Thu 9:00-22:00; Fri 9:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 13:0020:00 Belgian-style frites served in paper cones right from out of a street-side hatch.

Yes they’re good, but they’re bettered by the sauces that are written up in marker pen on the wall tiles. With money exchanged, do your eating on the upturned crates left on the side of the curb. $ Soul Food Bus ul. Marynarska 11, tel. 513 609 480, open Mon-Fri 12:00-15:00. ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 407, tel. 501 201 975, open Mon-Sun 12:30-20:30 You can’t miss this place: it’s a big red truck/bus. Their m.o is simple enough. Eleven types of burgers, and seven quesadillas, served from late until even later.

Note they do move around and the open hrs are subject to change – Facebook them for their latest GPS. $ To Tu Dumpling Bar ul. Niekłańska 33, open 11:00-20:00, www.chinskapierogarnia.pl A shabby looking shack cabin, To Tu offer what are seriously considered some of the best – if not the best – dim sum in town. Magic-ked up by a Manchurian exile, the experience isn’t unlike being in a sweaty back street haunt in Asia. And that’s a good thing! $

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Wurst Kiosk (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 17, tel. 606 133 134, open Mon-Fri 11:00-21:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-19:00 Imported German sausages served through a hole-in-a-wall with big dabs of mustard and fresh buns to go with them.

The currywurst is just like the one you had at Berlin Hauptbahnhof. $

cooking schools Cook Up Studio ul. Racławicka 99 (Fort Mokotów), tel. 22 212 89 76, www.cookup.pl Workshops in a gorgeous cooking studio located in a redbrick fortress. Past themes have included Swedish cooking (led by the Swedish Embassy chef), knife skills and soup, with lessons culminating in eating all that hard work.

Joseph’s Culinary Studio ul. Duchnicka 3, tel. 663 040 800, www. jospehseeletso.pl A familiar face from the TV, Botswanan born chef Joseph Seeletso marks a new chapter of his career with the launch of his own culinary academy. Tailor-made courses for individuals and groups are held in a custom-designed kitchen, and include cookery classes, wine tasting, dinner and the chance to learn a stack of secrets from the man himself.

Scheller Academy ul. Międzynarodowa 68, tel. 22 626 80 92, open Mon-Fri 9:00-17:00 (Office) www. schelleracademy.pl Instantly recognizable by his beret and whiskers, Swiss-born Kurt Scheller invites guests to his Saska Kępa kitchen for lessons aimed at all skill levels.

cuban El Caribe ul. Mickiewicza 9, tel. 22 400 0994. Open Mon-Thu 12:30-24:00; Fri-Sat 12:30-1:00; Sun 12:30-22:30 Start with a round of daiquiris before ordering frijoles negroes (black beans). But everyone agrees, it’s the flan that gets you doing the cha cha. With the cooking left to a Cuban exile, this perky spot is worth the trip north to Żoliborz. $$

french ArtBistro Stalowa ul. Stalowa 52, tel. 22 618 2732, www.

stalowa52.pl, open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:30-22:00 Part of an ‘art hotel’, the distant Stalowa features a narrow dining chamber with vaulted walls, fresh flowers and white formica fittings. It looks good, but on a brighter day the courtyard, strewn with deckchairs and crates, is the place to be. The food is erratic – our vol au vent starter was dry and devoid of taste, while the chocolate ‘cream’ dessert was a runny, ugly looking disappointment. But there is potential: the main was a thing of excellence – duck with a carefully crisped skin, a perfect hint of fat, expertly browned potatoes and a well-executed orange and caramel sauce. $$ L’Arc (E8) ul. Puławska 16, tel. 519 000 050, open 10:00-last guest, www.larc.pl A place of considered elegance, subtle decorations and monochrome colors. They’re especially noted for their obsessive attitude towards seafood (pick from five types of oysters, or delve into the fish tank for the lobster of your choosing), inventive mains and desserts that are heaven. $$ Le Bistro Rozbrat (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44, tel. 22 881 7808, open 12:00-24:00. The signs suggest that Powiśle is set to mature even further this year, making the transition from hipster haunt to restaurant breeding ground – and here is Exhibit A. Owned by Frenchman Alain Budzyk, the interiors are contemporary casual, with talking points saved for the food. The concise menu has token nods to Spanish cuisine, as well as a steak bavette that’s being raved about on the blogs. $$ Le Victoria Brasserie Moderne (D3) ul. Królewska 11 (Sofitel Warsaw Victoria), tel. 22 657 8332, open Mon-Sat12:00-24:00, www.sofitel-victoriawarsaw.com The interior of Didier Gomez whispers intimacy, yet it also embraces notions of space and light. The casual elegance that emanates from the design is accented by warm colors, low banquettes and glinting mirrors. Acting as a ballast to it all is an open kitchen, in which you’ll find Executive Chef Maciej Majewski honing his art. His is a menu that fits seamlessly with the surrounds: a fresh, modern look at French cuisine, but one that values clarity and simplicity. Always leave room for dessert, especially the ‘pear trio’ – delicate and refreshing and with the right hint of sweet.

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listings / restaurants german Adler (E5) ul. Mokotowska 69, tel. 22 628 73 84, open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-24:00, www.adlerrestauracja.pl Set in a rustic rotunda, this veteran favorite packs in reassuringly caloric portions of pork knuckles, schnitzel and dumplings – all of a sudden, you understand why Helmut Kohl looks so large. Foaming beers served by Bavarian country maids complete the authenticity. $

greek & turkish Paros (D4) ul. Jasna 14/16, tel. 22 828 1067, open 12:00-last guest, www.paros-restauracja.pl Out of all of Warsaw’s Greek contributions Paros dazzles most with a glitzy look that’s a complete U-turn from the typical taverna look. Owned by the same team behind El Greco, the menu is identical, though a recent visit revealed a kitchen resting on its laurels – not one plate on our table was finished. $$ Santorini ul. Egipska 7, tel. 22 672 0525, open daily 12:00-23:00, www.kregliccy.pl/santorini/ Santorini looks scuffed and tired but there’s a bonhomie present that instantly engages.

The kitchen attaches no value to things like presentation, preferring instead to simply treat diners to piles of grilled and skewered food that consistently tastes right – and the milfei dessert is magic. $$ Sofra (C6) ul. Wilcza 71, tel. 731 847 731, open MonThu 10:00-23:00; Fri & Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-22:00 On the design front it’s almost a straight plagiary of Charlotte: white brickwork, blackboard and communal table.

So the surprise here is the food – Turkish.

And not just any Turkish, but brilliant Turkish!

It’s nothing fancy, but there’s a real honest quality to the moussaka and lamb and beef in tomato sauce. The desserts are a real spoiler as well. $

indian Bollywood Lounge (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, tel. 22 827 0283, open Sun-Thu 12:00-3:00; Fri 12:00-6:00; Sat 14:00-6:00, bollywoodlounge.pl Known for their raucous dusk-till-dawn parties,

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there is another less hedonistic roll filled by Bollywood: that of a restaurant. The menu is an uncomplicated, classic affair that’s an ideal primer for the party ahead. $$ Bombaj Masala (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 606 688 777, open 11:00-23:00, www.bombajmasala.pl One of the best looking Indian restaurants in Warsaw, but the food rarely pokes above average. For a cuisine that prides itself on rich, intense tastes, Bombaj gets remembered for bland, oily dishes that only sometimes get finished. Yet business remains brisk, thanks in part to a combination of location and general culinary ignorance. $$

Buddha (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 23, tel. 22 826 3501, open Sun-Thu 11:0023:00; Fri&Sat 11:00-24:00, www.buddha.info.pl The days of the Raj are recreated in Buddha, a finelooking curry house with intricate interiors and top-drawer curries. The murgh masala jhodphur is a favorite of ours though the real plus here is the consistency: it’s always a solid bet. $ Chmielarnia (B4) ul. Twarda 42 (basement level), tel. 725 010 271, open Mon-Thu 11:00-24:00; Fri 11:00-2:00; Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 11:0024:00, www.chmielarnia.waw.pl Not only does Chmielarnia house some of the world’s best beers (see Nightlife), but also – as the shrine by the door may suggest – a very good restaurant. Sure, you’re eating in a dark and loud beer cellar (to us that’s a bonus), but the Nepalese chef, Ram, knows what he’s doing. And aside from Indian and Nepalese staples, there’s a menu tailor-made for the beer swiggers. $ Curry House ul. Żeromskiego 81, tel. 508 870 774 & al. Ken 47, tel. 22 213 0689, open daily 11:00-22:00, curryhouse.com.pl A primitive design (port-a-loo toilet, barred windows) and far-flung location have not hindered Curry House one bit. It’s a legend, not least for their vindaloo – a macho dish that provokes spontaneous combustion. Warning: no beer. $ Madras (B3) Al. Solidarnosci 129/131, tel. 536 335 333, open 11:00-22:00 Even before you enter, you smell Madras: a pungent aroma that wafts

gloriously over gloomy Solidarnośći. Looking humble, unassuming, and even a little seedy, this microscopic venue is as far removed from refined as it gets. For all that, those who love Indian food refuse to go anywhere else for their curry – full of intense flavors and bold spicing, the vindaloo is a near death experience: even your hair feels like it’s on fire. As the burning euphoria subsides, you’re left basking in that blissful glow all hotheads will know. Note: no alcohol license. $ Mandala (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 9/11, tel. 22 428 44 54, open Mon-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:0023:00; Sun 13:00-21:00, www.mandalaklub. com or www.indiaexpress.pl Remember the cheap curries you once scoffed as a student?

Well Mandala offers something similar.

Immense portions, low prices and an efficient delivery service ensure plenty of custom, but the food is, at best, nothing more than ordinary. On a bad day, you might feel a little queasy. $ Mr India Al. KEN 47, tel. 22 213 0689, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www. mrindia.pl Opened by the creators of Curry House, Mr India touts the same menu but an interior that’s a substantial upgrade to its older sibling. As with the original, the spicy dishes could floor an elephant. It’s become a lifeline for Brits shipwrecked in Ursynów. $$ Parivar al. Waszyngtona 75, tel. 22 393 4104, open 11:00-22:00, www.parivar.pl The squid sizzler has the taste and texture of that chewing gum you found stuck under the bus seat, whil e the vindaloo is cunningly disguised as a bowl of red water with some chicken floating about. “I get better curry on the oil rigs,” opined the Insider’s official balti boy.

For all of that, the biggest disappointment is Parivar’s apparent success. $ Rain by India Curry (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 438 9350, open Mon-Sun 12:00-23:00, www.rain.pl Fresh, contemporary interiors impart a chic, classy look, while the shaded courtyard garden is one of the best about town. The real credit for Rain’s resuscitation though belongs to the kitchen: our curry expert rates the starters as the best he’s had in any Indian restaurant.

And the mains continue the form with a magnificent lamb tikka masala. The tiffin lunch deals are outstanding as well. $$

BROUGHT TO YOU BY KITCHEN

A Kitchen Revelation

The new menu at Kitchen sees a perennial Insider favorite returning to its roots…

I

t’s the wings that do it. Double fried they are and smothered in a plum BBQ sauce. Eating them is sticky business, but the taste is sensational: crisp, juicy and just about the most joyous thing you can eat without the use of a fork. They are the smoking gun, the conclusive evidence that change is for the good. After a well-received six month flirtation with upscale dining, Kitchen have done a U-turn and returned to their roots – and the results aren’t so much a kitchen revolution, rather a kitchen revelation.

“It’s a new era for us,” says owner Tomek Woźniak, “I got bored of the fancy food: it wasn’t me, I just couldn’t feel the place anymore.” The reaction has been a strategic rethink, one that sees the presentation of a menu of comfort food. “This is fresh food for real people,” says Tomek, “so lots of little plates made using the best natural, local ingredients.” This includes meatballs, the like of which Warsaw hasn’t seen before. It’s simple food, yet breathtaking in perfection. Washing them down with glugs of house lemonade and one is left lolling in a pleasant state of heaven. Give me more.

The whole ‘back to basics’ approach is not limited to tweaks alone.

Kitchen’s award-winning burgers (remember how good these blighters were?) are back and better than before, along with initiatives such as home delivery and maximum five to ten minute wait times for breakfast. Have no doubt, this is more than a rehash of previous ideas, it’s a complete new beginning…

Kitchen ul. Widok 8, kitchenrestaurant.pl

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listings / restaurants Rani Al. KEN 48/10, tel. 729 247 400, open 11:00-22:00, rani.com.pl Mere steps from Metro Natolin, this restaurant’s catchment area goes beyond just Ursynów. Owner Samir is a self-confessed foodie, and his vision includes a contemporary Indian menu that features pan-seared cod with turmeric, tomato salsa and mint chutney – wonderful.

Rani will also please the traditionalists, with everything from creamy kormas to vindaloo’s that leave your ears blowing smoke rings. $$

spiredbymini.pl Fans of the original we might be, but this latest venture brings to mind one of those anonymously formulaic Times Square eateries where tourists convene for the ‘fake’ New York experience. There are moments when the scrum at the bar threatens to spill into blood sport, while the despondent staff only make matters worse.

You’d think the Pilsner beer tanks would serve as a point of redemption, but here foul glasses make what should be Warsaw’s freshest beer into the capital’s worst. $$

Tandoor (D7) ul. Marszałkowska 21/25, tel. 22 825 2375, open 12:00-22:30, www.tandoor. com.pl After nearly 20 years at the helm, owner Charanjit Walia has sold up and moved on, leaving a spiritual hole in his life-defining work. His parting shot has been a re-haul which has seen not just the interior modernized, but the menu – start with the pea and basil soup before moving onto the chicken tamarind or the chicken sholay kebab. Coated in absinth, it’s set aflame at the table. Traditionalists will also approve: the ‘classic’ menu features a formidable butter chicken tikka masala. After a couple of years in the doldrums, Tandoor is back with a bang. $$

A nuż Widelec (E3) ul. Dobra 14/16, tel. 507 367 520, open 12:00-22:00 So snug is A nuż widelece, the feeling is of being round at a friend’s house.

The food is nothing fancy, but fresh and made with love – and it feels even better while the owner potters about, chatting with his guests and stoking the fire in their new winter garden. Such is the atmosphere, you want to call it home. $$

international Aioli Inspired by Mini pl. Konstytucji 5, open 9:00-24:00, aioliin-

Baltazar by Mondovino (D5) ul. Krucza 24/26, tel. 516 817 855, open 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, baltazar. warszawa.pl Filled with big red colors and battleship greys, there’s a nice feeling of improvisation to Baltazar, and an undercurrent of individuality emphasized by a 1950s

wall painting that’s the venue’s statement piece and ballast. The cooking is the work of twins Kuba and Michał (“one person in two bodies” laughs the owner), and is a brilliant work of deconstructed simplicity: delicate rabbit and thyme ravioli, Fred Flintstone-style steaks, and pork belly served with a blob of foam and an arc of liquefied apple. And all hail the desserts, in particular, the silky crème caramel. $$ Bibenda (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 10, tel. 502 770 303, open Tue-Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, bibenda.pl If it’s informal dining you want, then Bibenda nails it: here the warm design incorporates a popular bar area filled with a young, chattery crowd. The seasonal menu makes use of market vegetables and farmyard produce, and is built on pillars of quality and simplicity. $$ Bierhalle al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), Nowy Świat 64, Marszałkowska 55/73, bierhalle.pl Beer and food: a match made in heaven.

Accompany your frothing stein of lager with traditional beery bites like sausages, schnitzel and pork knuckle. The menu is German / Polish slanted, but with a few international accents. $$ Bernie Grill & Beer (C1) Rynek Nowego Miasto 13/15, tel. 666 999 555, open 10:00-24:00, bernie.pl You might think any place with the words ‘beer’

Dear Guests!

We invite you to experience an exotic and mysterious adventure full of seasonal aromas and the unforgettable flavours of traditional Indian cuisine.

Curry, coriander, turmeric, cinnamon, ginger, cumin: these aromas mean it’s impossible to pass Buddha without stepping in.

Enjoy the atmosphere of Indian life, food, music and happiness.

Buddha Indian Restaurant ul. Nowy Swiat 23 +48 22 826 35 01 / 725 111 222

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listings / restaurants and ‘grill’ in their title deserves a crack, but everything about Bernie’s is ordinary and mainstream. We sent our food back after it was burned to a crisp, and we weren’t alone.

Preying on passing tourists, it’s become one to avoid. $$

Boathouse ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 389a, tel. 22 616 3223, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00- 18:00, www.boathouse.pl The name gives it away, doesn’t it? Situated in what is indeed a former boathouse, this venerable institution comes into its element each summer when Warsaw goes riverside to dine at this restaurant. Even out of season, the Mediterranean standards have stood the test of time and keep this venue busy. $$ Brasserie Warszawska (E5) ul. Górnośląska 24, tel. 22 628 9423, open Mon 12:00-22:00; Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-20:00, www.brasseriewarszawska.pl Looking for classic cuisine with no daft flights of fancy? Step right in. At a time when everyone wants to be Ferran Adrià, Brasserie has both a menu and interior that you can understand: pan-fried foie gras; elegant beef Rossini; and sinful apple tarte tatin, all served inside posh interiors of zinc-plated mirrors and chessboard floors. Their Michelin Bib Gourmand is a source of pride, but it’s the number of repeat clients that are the

ultimate paean to the skills of chef Mateusz Wichrowski. $$$ Bubbles (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 512 540 913, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-18:00, bubbles.com.pl Occupying a small, square room, it’s intimate and relaxed: a place busy with blackboards and bottles, crates and clutter. It radiates warmth and honesty. The food is exquisite, and includes big, meaty snails farmed in Mazury, and their signature dish: Swiss-style raclette.

Presented on a wooden chopping board, this cheese dish is classic melty goodness, and served alongside a pile of potatoes, onions marinated with caramel and candied pumpkin. Considering the place doubles as a champagne bar the prices are remarkably moderate. $$ Concept 13 (D4) ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7373, open Mon-Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 11:00-16:00 You’d expect a rooftop meal at Poland’s ultimate luxury department store to cost the earth, but that’s not the case. The zł. 50 lunch deal allows Joe Public to enjoy the considerable skills of Dariusz Barański. That he manages to create different pieces of art each and every afternoon is a testament to his talent – fellow chefs and foodies privately talk of him as a Michelin star in the making. $$$ Der Elefant (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, tel. 22 890 0010, open

12:00-24:00, www.derelefant.com This leviathan restaurant unravels in a maze of wrought iron and monochrome tiles. The menu looks like it was devised by throwing darts at a cookbook (Mediterranean mezze, Tom Yum soup, burgers, pierogi, etc.), but if the focus is blurry then the quality isn’t. While some of the dishes are strictly middling, the Alaskan crab claws are excellent while the filet mignon (zł. 59) one of the best meat deals in town – and it’s even better when twinned with their own-made BBQ sauce. $$ Dom ul. Mierosławskiego 12, tel. 509 165 712, open Tue-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:0022:00 The simple name implies exactly what it is: a restaurant in a house. Set in a pre-war home complete with a lawn and garden, this little secret isn’t all that secret. When the Insider visited it was packed, prompting staff to make some adjustments and put together a table. We’re glad they did. Their menu changes frequently, and on our visit included homemade focaccia, beef risotto and gravlax with lime foam on top of a mini-pancake. You won’t want to leave. $$ Dwie Trzecie (D5) ul. Wilcza 50/52, tel. 605 589 588, open 12:00-24:00 Undeterred by the departure of chef Marcin Jabłonkski, the new guy in the kitchen – Grzegorz Nowakowski – has stamped his own mark with a seasonal menu that’s high on creativity: on our visit that meant guinea fowl accompanied with blobs

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listings / restaurants of emulsion and smears of coffee puree.

Pleasingly, you get the idea that it’ll work in all seasons: raw enough for summer, yet intimate for winter. $$ InFormal Kitchen Pl. Małachowskiego 2 (enter from Traugutta), tel. 531 918 534, open 8:30-23:00; Fri 8:3024:00; Sat 9:00-24:00; Sun 9:00-23:00, informalkitchen.pl Headed by chef Dariusz Ratkowski, there’s plenty of fireworks over the course of a vibrant menu that sources its produce from regional eco farms: meat from within a 26 kilometer radius of Warsaw, dairy produce from Mazury and fish from Pomerania. The rump of lamb is a class act, and bettered only by the pear and thyme tart for dessert. $$ Kaskrut (D6) ul. Poznańska 5, tel. 22 622 5438, open Mon-Sun 12:00-15:00, 17:00-23:00, www. facebook.com/dwichlab This haunt has a high communal seating plan and a hip, buzzy foodie crowd: fit in by taking pics of the food.

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The exciting menu is a temporary work that changes every two weeks. The place is known for its trial-and-error attitude: combinations that don’t work get binned before making a public debut. Those that make it through the qualifiers end up on the board. Servings are artistic, excellent and heavily influenced

by French and North African cuisine, and the new chef looks like he’s adapted well to Kaskrut’s high standards. $$

Kitchen (D4) ul. Widok 8, tel. 22 464 8284, open Mon-Thu 10:00-23:00; -Fri 10:00-1:00; Sat 12:00-1:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.burgerkitchen.pl March marked the end of Kitchen’s foray into fine dining, with owner Tomek opting to resurrect Warsaw’s best burgers, and create a menu of healthy-minded ‘comfort food’. The result is an array of wonderfully composed little plates that make

use of the freshest, seasonal ingredients.

We’ve already found our favorite: sticky wings layered with plum BBQ sauce.

BEST WAWA 2014 “Reinvention” La Maison (B3) ul. Chłodna 15, tel. 22 652 3660, open 8:00-23:00, lamaison.pl Everything here feels considered, from a wine list handpicked by importer Frank Telling, right down to the desserts, prepared by award-winning French pastry chef Michel Willaume – and my, what desserts. Backing the little details up is a menu of note: fish are a particular forte. All this in a casual background that features some whimsical Alice in Wonderland touches: patchwork armchairs, pinkish booths and hanging teapot-shaped lights. $$ La Rotisserie (C1) ul. Kościelna 12 (Le Régina Hotel), tel. 22 531 6070, open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, 12:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 7:00-11:00,12:0023:00, www.leregina.com Truly, one of the

listings / restaurants standout dining rooms of Poland. Many have commented on the Michelin quality of chef Paweł Oszczyk’s restaurant, and you may consider the lack of a star one of the puzzles of the modern world. The cooking is ‘classic with a twist’, and is built for superlatives: the slow-roasted rack of Welsh lamb was one of our highlights of 2013.

Find Oszczyk ably supported by Andrzej Strzelczyk, Poland’s top ranked sommelier, and wonderfully charismatic staff. $$$ L’enfant Terrible (D8) ul. Sandomierska 13 (enter from Rejtana), tel. 22 119 5705, open Mon 18:00-22:00; Tue-Fri 12:30-15:30, 18:00-22:00; Sat 15:00-22:00, www.eterrible.pl What a few months for L’enfant Terrible: opened at the end of summer, they’d already done enough

by October to win Gazeta Wyborcza’s coveted Knajpy Roku award. And no-one deserves it more than Chef Michał Bryś, an innovative chef who leaves diners beaming. Pitting local produce against modern techniques the tasting menu (five courses: zł. 170) is sensational: the duck hearts will live long in this Insider’s memory. With all the hype you expect it to be a little up its arse, but it’s anything but: the design is smart but non-threatening, and the front of house staff are due plenty of credit. $$$ BEST WAWA 2014 “Newcomer” Lokal 14 (D3) ul. Świętokrzyska 14, tel. 22 827 5480, open Mon-Sat 8:30-24:00; Sun 10:00-22:00

Having served his apprenticeship at Tamka 43, you’re right to expect good things from upcoming chef Filip Kosiń. He doesn’t disappoint with his artful menu of modern European “author’s cuisine”. Topping his skills off is a pleasing environment that’s big on light, wood and metalwork. Getting used to being more than a construction site, the opening of Lokal 14 is positive news for this stretch of Świętokrzyska. $$ Między Ustami (E5) ul. Mokotowska 33/35, tel. 530 323 325, open Sun-Mon 10:00-23:00; Tue-Thu 8:00-24:00; Fri 8:00-3:00; Sat 10:00-3:00 The design joins elements of classic Prague bordello against a London Soho bar, while the international menu features a decent steak nicely enhanced by a silky drizzle of demi-glace. You get the idea both the cooking and artisan cocktails need a little fine-tuning, but fundamentally this newbie is looking in the right direction – certainly one to keep a watch for. $$ Momu.Gastrobar (D2) ul. Wierzbowa 11, tel. 506 100 001, open Sun-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00, www.momu.pl Tapas-style portions of experimental-looking food arrives in little glass jars (meat and fish skewers, Eton mess), or else on paper plates a la the jalapeno hot dog. Pay zł. 40 for a choice of six itsy pots served in a wire-framed basket.

A new concept for Warsaw, it’s been a case of so far so good for Momu. $

Nolita (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 292 0424, Nolita open Mon-Fri 12.00-15.00 (lunch), 18.00-22.30 (dinner); Sat 13.00-23.00, www.nolita.pl The deluxe dining scene is filling out in Warsaw, and there’s now a few restaurants that can present an equitable claim for the No. 1 spot. However, it’s Nolita that perch at the top, with a menu that sees largely classical recipes through a sharp, modern prism – chef Jacek Grochowina has created a place that’s coherent and understandable without sacrificing values of innovation. Looking chic and high end, the tastes and sensations in this restaurant are thrilling: diners are left speechless by the tuna tartar, while the aged beef fillet is an Insider mainstay. $$$ BEST WAWA 2014 “Chef” BEST WAWA 2014 “Fine Dining” Nowa Kuźnia ul. Kostki Potockiego 24, tel. 794 126 019, open 12:00-last guest, www.nowakuznia.pl A mere step from Wilanów’s 18th century church, this onetime blacksmith passes muster for excellent steaks and fresh salads practically plucked from a garden. In season, the summer terrace is magical, and the place even touts a faux beach complete with diggers and slides for the kids. $$

“Casual fine dining in the heart of Warsaw”

ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 292 0424, www.nolita.pl Reservations: rezerwacja@nolita.pl

Open Mon-Fri 12:00-15:00 Lunch, 18:00-22:30 Dinner, Sat 13:00-23:00 www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / restaurants Oliva (D4) ul. Ordynacka 10/12, tel. 501 497 410, open 12:00-23:00, www. restauracjaoliva.pl The spirit of the Mediterranean hangs over Oliva, a place where a milk color palette is matched against potted herbs and soft wooden touches. The menu has riffs of Italy, Spain and Greece, with particular pride attached to their gourmet olive oils. At times the cooking of Łukasz Żuchowski has been described as ‘inspirational’ and his talents come paired with a wine list selected by Marek Kondrat –

an actor / wine merchant with an immense reputation. $$ Papu (D9) al. Niepodległości 132/136, tel. 22 856 7788, open 11:00-22:30, restauracjapapu. pl The elegant décor sees wood-paneled walls lined with champagne bottles, making it an experience that is at once intimate and romantic. Chef Barek Kędra’s menu is specifically strong when it comes to white and red meats, while the wine list has been endorsed by Andrzej Strzelczyk, Poland’s champion sommelier. $$ Platter by Karol Okrasa (C4) InterContinental Hotel, ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8734 or 22 328 8730, open Mon-Fri 12:00-16:00, Sat-Sun 17:30-23:00, www.platter.pl The hotel has roped in celebrity chef Karol Okrasa to head their revamped dining room. As a temple of nouveau Polish, the new layout isn’t a dramatic change from the previous occupant, but the food is faultless. In particular, the herb garden salad with prawns comes immaculately groomed.

An already excellent experience has been raised to talking point level. $$$ Po Prostu Zachęta (D3) pl. Małachowskiego 3, tel. 22 556 96 77, open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-20:00, www.poprostuzacheta. pl Sophisticated yet cozy, Darek Ryniec’s restaurant is set on the lower level of the Zachęta, and despite the grand vaulted ceiling offers substantial privacy with tables nestled beside major columns. The set lunch menu emphasizes Polish, while offering a main menu that’s definitely trendy European: the dishes will be licked clean. $$ Punta Prima ul. Obrzeżna 1B, tel. 22 406 0886, open 11:00-22:00, puntaprima.com.pl There’s something immediately fetching about Punta Prima, a place that announces itself grandly with its deep wood panels and embroidered armchairs. For food, choose from a varied menu that draws on largely Mediterranean influences. Try the bream with herbs baked i sea salt. $$ Qchnia Artystyczna (E6) Zamek Ujazdowski, Al. Jazdów 2, tel. 22 625 7627, open daily 12:00-22:00, www. qchnia.pl Even on a cold, ashen day, can

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you question a view that spills down onto a canal and park way down below? And how about when that view comes from a candle-lit reconstructed castle… Endlessly romantic, this artistic eatery comes with a light look and a creative menu honed by Marta Gessler. $$ Restauracja 99 (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 22 620 1999, open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.restaurant99.com Sporting a futuristic look, 99 is an enduring veteran of the CBD circuit. No longer the top dog for business wining / dining, it nonetheless remains a very safe choice for perfect steaks and loaded margaritas. $$ Salto (D5) ul. Wilcza 73 (enter from Emilii Plater), tel.

22 584 8771, www.saltorestauracja.pl For those who think Argentine chef Martin Gimenez-Castro is just about steak, then they haven’t been to Salto. The tasting menu is the best way to view his full oeuvre, and on our visit included ceviche with Portuguese corvina; a dainty tranche of cavala mackerel; and Porcini ice cream served in the shape of a mushroom. It’s a brilliant demonstration of the chef’s passion and personality, but most of all, it’s just bloody brilliant. $$$ Secado (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 66, tel. 608 707 799, open Mon-Fri 10:00-23:00; Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-23:00 Casual, intimate interiors complement a menu that’s expanded from its original Latin leanings. Everything we’ve tried here has been culinary gold, and that includes the surf & turf, tortillas and roast beef. That they also fix Warsaw’s top cocktails makes it something of a one-stop solution to your evening. $$ Senses (C2) ul. Bielańska 12, tel. 22 331 9697, open Mon-Fri 12:00-14:30, 17:30-22:00; Sat 17:30-22:00, www.sensesrestaurant.pl The entrance alone is a thing of fancy and accessed through a long open-air corridor, one side flanked by the office block, the other by bullet grazed brickwork. Flickering flames dance on either side, the tall walls disappearing into the night sky above. Recommended is the six course tasting menu (zł. 230), which on our visit included eel, smoked at the table, duck with onion chutney and pepper mousse and swordfish served amid billowing ‘sea essence’. Comparisons to Atelier Amaro are inevitable, and speak volumes for the innova-

listings / restaurants tion and talents of chef Andrea Camastra. $$$ BEST WAWA 2014 “Foreign Chef” Signature (D5) ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 55 38755, open 12:00-23:00, www.signaturerestaurant.pl ‘Kilian who?’ people asked when Wojciech Kilian was installed as head chef. But this young talent has had the last laugh: set to be Poland’s next big chef, his cooking is extraordinary and presents true fine dining at bargain prices. Kilian’s cause is complimented by a beautiful design described by one reader as a ‘Monegasque state of mind’. Think: friezes and reliefs dated from the time this was the Soviet Embassy, lavish 1950s Oswald chairs, lighting by Serge Mouille and original Marilyn photos shot by the acclaimed Milton Greene. You feel a millionaire just being here. $$ Solec 44 (F4) ul. Solec 44, tel. 798 363 996, open Tue-Sun 12:00-last guest; Mon 16:00-last guest. www.solec.waw.pl Chef Aleksander Baron is one of the big characters on Warsaw’s foodie circuit, and his love of nose-to-tail food always ensures surprises on the daily changing menu. Using fresh, seasonally appropriate ingredients, this is one of the best alternate dining experiences around: and yeah, it doesn’t really look like a restaurant. Diners order at the counter before sitting down in a spontaneous looking, cut-price interior that clacks and clatters to the sound of grown-ups playing

board games. We’re huge fans. $$ Sowa & Przyjaciele (G8) ul. Gagarina 2, tel. 795 505 152, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-20:00, www.sowaiprzyjaciele.pl Rocked by its involvement in a government bugging scandal, Robert Sowa has moved fast to reassure customers that all is well in his restaurant. And we can as well. Looking the part with its soft colors and warm lighting, positives are underlined by a sommelier with a sixth sense and a barnstorming menu that merits attention. Sowa is one of the biggest names in Polish cooking, and you may fear he spends more time on TV than he does on his kitchen: we’re happy to report on all of our visits we’ve seen him emerge from the background, sharing backslaps and bear hugs with his regular clientele. $$$ Stółdzielnia (D9) ul. Kazimierzowska 22, tel. 22 845 00 67, open daily 13:00-22:00 www.stoldzielnia. pl A complete anomaly Stółdzielnia looks more like one of those one-day pop-up restaurants: unfinished looking, with oddshaped tables and stark colors. But keep an open mind because the food scores big points. The pizza, pasta and seafood dishes incorporate imported Italian ingredients, and come close to blowing your mind. $$ Strefa (C3) ul. Próżna 9, tel. 22 255 0850, open Mon-Fri 8:00-24:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-24:00, www.

restauracjastrefa.pl Just what were they thinking ignoring the form book like that?

No communal tables, no pipes and no rough-hewn bricks. Instead, there’s a swan white elegance here, with lots of pristine colors and smart, smooth-talking service.

What a refreshing change. The chef favors sous-vide techniques, and his is a magic, masterful hand – his duck is flawless, and the homemade ice cream with seasonal fruits is quite a follow-up. Even the cocktails are a thing of brilliance. $$ Szklarnia ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), tel. 690 511 020, open 11:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00, restauracjaszklarnia.pl Natalia Huzarwicz’s cuisine is influenced by the season, which means plenty of light spring dishes presented with real aplomb. Recognizable by the dazzle of neon and greenhouse outside, this is a restaurant that seamlessly fits with the Soho surrounds. $$ Tamka 43 (E3) ul. Tamka 43, tel. 22 441 6234, open Mon-Sun 10:00-23:00, www.tamka.43. pl The design is upscale but in a quiet, dignified manner, with the principal talking point being the view: there it is, right in front of you, the Ostrogski Palace. For date night, book the peacock’s perch, a table for two that juts out from the rest of the glass frontage. Chef Rafał Hreczaniuk has finessed a menu that stands out as one of the best in the city, with a seasonal tasting menu that

• The best quality USDA Black Angus prime beef, Wagyu 9+ Kobe steaks and Scottish prime beef.

• Outstanding seafood menu with oysters, mussels, octopus and calamari and seasonal, traditional Polish dishes.

• The largest selections of global wine in Poland. ul. Merliniego 5 (across from the Warszawianka water park) tel. 22 646 0810/22 646 0849

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listings / restaurants on our visit featured beautiful zander with horse radish powder, Irish beef cheek with plenty of oomph, and a wild garlic panna cotta. Consider Tamka one of the Poland’s elite restaurants. $$$ Taste Wilanów ul. Kazachska 1, tel. 22 400 1122, open daily 11:30-22:30, www.taste.pl To leave a restaurant fortified is to be expected; to leave delighted is the mark of quality. With a clever L-shaped interior, a natural terrace and a gleaming white ceramic kitchen it looks good, but it’s the food that earns the plaudits. Dominik Moskalenko, the executive chef who cut his teeth on Amber Room has been a central part of this creation from the beginning and the fruits of his labor are mouth-watering. Fish sit prominently on his menu and account for an astonishing 60% of sales. And rightly so: they’re phenomenal. $$ Wilczy Głód (D5) ul. Wilcza 29A, tel. 22 891 0285, open Mon 9:30-20:00; Tue-Thu 9:30-22:00; Fri 9:30-

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23:00; Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 The jaunty, impish design makes use of cartoonish wolves on the walls and tree-like installations strung with bare light bulbs.

And look, there’s a furry, mouse resting on a cushion. But if the place is playful and perky, then the cooking is both serious and sincere.

Pairing international ideas with organic local produce from small family farmsteads, you immediately sense this is a place created out of a love and respect for food. $ Winosfera (B3) ul. Chłodna 31, tel. 22 526 2500, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00, www.winosfera.pl Everyone enjoys the food, and Jakub Adamczyk’s seasonally adjusted menu is indeed a thing of greatness: the beef tenderloin is a must, while the rhubarb parfait is a dessert of distinction. The prices reflect the quality of the kitchen, but certainly not that of the wait staff – two years after opening, and Winosfera still haven’t ironed out issues such as front-of-house staff who greet guests with an ‘Uh’. $$$

Wootwórnia (H4) ul. Królowej Aldony 5, tel. 603 696 259, open 10:00-22:00, www.wootwornia.pl. Accessed round a back garden, Wootwórnia feels like a private little secret – you get the sensation not of visiting a restaurant, but of visiting a friend. The dominant element is the counter, from which co-owner Agnes Woo showcases her homemade preserves and own-baked cakes. Sourcing ingredients from small-scale local farms, here is a menu designed to nourish the soul. And it does just that. The tomato soup, enriched with hint of orange, aniseed and cinnamon isn’t soup of the day, it’s our soup of the year. Genuine ‘food from the heart’. $$ You & Me (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 379 0379, open Mon-Thu 7:00-24:00; Fri 7:00-2:00; Sat 12:002:00; Sun 12:00-24:00, youandmebar.pl A modern looking eatery / cocktail bar whose kitchen has a distinct liking for pan-European dishes and seafood. Set over two floors, their enduring popularity – eight years and

listings / restaurants counting – makes it something of a legend on Żurawia. $$ Żurawina (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34, tel. 22 521 06 66, open Mon-Thu 8:00-24:00; Fri 8:00-1:00; Sat 14:00-1:00; Sun 14:00-22:00, zurawina. eu First a wine bar, second a restaurant, but the food here is such that it merit attention.

There’s only seven or so mains to pick from, and the chef has them down to a tee – rib eye with shallots and truffle butter? Yes please.

Certainly, the quality befits one of Warsaw’s best wine bars.

italian Ave Pizza (E3) ul. Topiel 12, tel. 22 828 8507, open 12:00-22:00 The argument over who serves Warsaw’s best pizza goes right to the wire, but there’s no doubting that Ave Pizza are up there on the leaderboard. Set across a sparse, metropolitan area, this fashionable L-shaped joint comes endorsed by the capital’s notoriously picky Italian community.

Order the pillowy calzone and you’ll soon learn why. $ Bacio (D5) ul. Wilcza 43, tel. 22 626 83 03, open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00, www.bacio.pl New look Bacio has been de-cluttered and simplified and now features a stripped down look and a menu that peaks with the duck in red wine risotto. Portions are huge, and are matched by a quality that’s seen this once ailing giant reinstalled as one of the top Italian eats in town. $$ Carpaccio (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel. 22 692 4726, open daily 12:00-last guest The Italian influence looms heavy here: the Italian owner patrols the restaurant floor, while Carmelo, a Sicilian, ensures nothing but excellence exits the wood-fired pizza oven. The quality of the hams is undisputed, as a try of the Parma ham bruschetta immediately proves. $$ Delizia (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 22 622 6665, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00, www.delizia.com.pl The sheer proliferation of Italian restaurants lends an element of chance to dining out: cut through the noise by visiting Delizia, a place that’s consistently topped polls ever

since it launched in 2010. Lorenzo’s cooking is upscale Italian with a contemporary twist, and comes presented by Luca, an ebullient ball of energy who patrols the floor with sparkling good humor. In the hands of these two an unforgettable night comes guaranteed.

Top quality imported products, a dimly-lit romantic atmosphere, a tasteful design and faultless food: no wonder so many rate this as their favorite Italian. $$ Dziurka od Klucza (E3) ul. Radna 13, tel. 500 150 494, open Mon-Sun 12:00-22:00, dziurkaodklucza. com.pl An inviting Italian restaurant in which curious doors sit embedded into the walls, as if waiting to be opened by the keys that hang on the tree outside. Striking a lavender look, the magic of this restaurant is affirmed by its wonderful pasta and intimate style. $$ Focaccia (D2) ul. Senatorska 13/15, tel. 22 829 6969, open 8:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-23:00, focaccia.pl Polish foodies already know the name of Łukasz Toczka – single-handedly he pulled the culinary shipwreck that is Gdańsk into the 21st century during his stint at Metamorfoza restaurant. Now he’s popped up in Warsaw, and his Italian menu illustrates his talent: consider the bistecca con sedano a must. And while you’d expect a restaurant inside a palace to be all bowties and oil paintings, it’s anything but – instead find fresh, light interiors that reflect the nature of the food. $$

‘Simplicity, elegance and atmosphere’

Cafe • Wine Bar • Restaurant • Whisky Bar • Wine Cellar ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 515 037 001 www.hoza.warszawa.pl www.facebook.com/hoza25 Open 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-21:00

La Bufala (B4) ul. Sienna 86, tel. 22 654 3277, open daily 11:00-23:00 On the right day you’ll find the ex-pat proprietors of Warsaw’s more refined Italian eateries using this for their pizza fix. It might not look like much, but its reputation speaks for itself. $ Mąka i Woda (D4) ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 91 87, open Mon-Thu 12:00-22:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-20:00 Purists applaud an approach that uses a custom-made oven from Naples and imported ingredients such as 00 Caputo flour and DOP certified San Marzano tomatoes. Scrupulously authentic, it’s no wonder that it’s packed to the gunnels every night of the week – even their Facebook page warns of 20 minute waiting times for a table alone. Learning this, some storm off in a huff – they need their heads checked, for this is Warsaw’s best pizza. $ www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / restaurants Mamma Marietta (C9) ul. Wołoska 74A, tel. 22 880 0071, open 12:00-22:00, www.mammamarietta.com A scattering of tables make reservations recommended in Mamma Marietta, an informal looking restaurant with lugubrious interiors and solemn service. But the food, created by head chef Andrea, has an authenticity that’s rare in a city whose enthusiasm for Italian food isn’t always reflected by quality. The tomato soup starter, is deliciously thick and almost worth the trip itself. $$ Parmizzano’s (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel, Floor 1), tel. 22 630 6306, open 12:00-23:00 The prices are highly intimidating, but are offset by cooking that never falls below brilliant.

Hotel restaurants get a bad rep, but in the formal surrounds of Parmiazzano’s diners can expect Italian food at its very best. $$$ Ristorante San Lorenzo (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 36, tel. 22 652 1616, open 12:00-last guest, www.sanlorenzo.

pl Adorned with crisp, starched linen and Roman frescos this space is almost magisterial in design. The Tuscan menu is flawless and well worth the rather hefty bill. The wine bar on the ground floor features the same standards at a snip of the price. It’s in here you’ll find Italian natives cheering the Serie A football. $$ Superiore (D6) ul. Piękna 28/34, tel. 506 404 059, open Mon-Fri 8:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-24:00, www.superiorewinebar.pl A hybrid wine shop, deli and restaurant, with an owner who prefers to think about the enjoyment of your dining experience rather than his cash till.

The veal pasta is the bestselling dish here for very good reason. $$ The Olive (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6706, open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, Sat & Sun 6:30-11:00 Bursting with seasonal fruits and veggies, it’s a fresh, fun place to eat. Hot and cold buffet for zł. 90. $$$

Trattoria da Antonio (D5) ul. Żurawia 18, tel. 22 625 5417, open Sun-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-24:00, www.trattoriadaantonio.pl At times you suspect you’ve walked into the 90s, what with the embellishments that appear at each turn – a Vespa, some stone lions, a water well. But this is no bad thing: at a time when restaurants are doing their best to look stripped down and functional, cheerful Antonio feels jaunty and fun. And the food, created by Sicilian-born Antonio Centurrino, has several redeeming qualities: the penne arrabiata is delicious in its simplicity, though for a piece of heaven try the gnocchi tartufati.

No less than a warm trattoria whose specialty is good, simple food. $$ Trattoria Rucola ul. Miodowa 1, tel. 888 575 457 & ul.

Francuska 6, tel. 22 616 1259, open daily 12:00-22:00 & ul. Krucza 6/14, tel. 22 465 1836, open Mon-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00, www.trattoriarucola.pl They’ve expanded to cover many locations across

Krakowskie Przedmieście 64 tel. +48 22 826 4770 email. info@delicjapolska.pl www.delicjapolska.pl

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listings / restaurants town, and in doing so have lost many of their regulars – as far as a chain enterprise goes, the pizza remains pretty good, but you feel a certain spark has been lost as a consequence of their growth. $ Vapiano Al. Jerozolimskie 63 (Lipinski Passage), tel.

22 356 10 50, open Mon-Thu 9:00-23:00, Fri 9:00-1:00; Sat 11:00-1:00, Sun 11:00-22:00 & ul. Taśmowa 7 (Marynarska Business Park) & ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów) www. vapiano.de/pl Here’s one chain brand that is worth the hype. Featuring a chic look rounded out with Ferrari red colors, the thin crust pizza earns its spurs, and the pasta combinations are great. $$ Venti-tre (E8) ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel), tel. 22 558 1094, open 6:30-23:00 There’s a hum and a buzz to the place that goes beyond the half a million bees kept in the apiary on the rooftop, and that’s never truer than on a Sunday afternoon – swing by for one of

Warsaw’s top brunches, and don’t miss the terrace – carefully shielded from the outside world by a phalanx of greenery. The Mediterranean menu has been carefully constructed using local ingredients, with the results befitting one of Warsaw’s top hotels. $$$

japanese & sushi Hana Sushi al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), tel. 22 331 7518, open Mon-Sat 11:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, www.hanasushi.pl Dated decor of bamboo shoots and bonsai trees is made to look good by dreadful service and irritating elevator music. But it’s hard to dislike Hana – the ‘gunkan special’ is out of this world. $$ Izumi Sushi ul. Mokotowska 17 (pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 22 825 7950, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00 & ul. Biały Kamień 4, tel. 22 424 0055, open

Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.izumisushi.eu The original location never ceases to amaze with its sushi, though it’s the addition on Biały Kamień that really gets people talking.

Here it’s not just the food that wows, but the interiors: a huge venue whose open plan doubles as an indoor forest – you need to see it to believe it. $$ Ryż i Ryba (D6) ul. Piękna 20, tel. 22 627 4150, open MonFri 11:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-22:00, www. ryziryba.pl The art of sushi is given a new lease of life in this Piękna newbie. The flavors are a revelation, making it more than just a stop-off for passing office workers. $$ Sakana Sushi Bar ul. Burakowska 5/7 tel. 22 636 0505, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00, Sun 13:00-22:00 & ul. Moliera 4/6, tel. 22 826 5958, open MonThu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-1:00; Sun 13:00-22:00 & ul. Wąwozowa 6, lok.10B, tel. 22 498 8899, Mon-Sat 12:00-22:30,

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listings / restaurants Sun 13:00-22:00, www.sakana.pl Sushi as a fashion statement? That’s what you find in Sakana, a place where the glam and the great of Warsaw peacock around with feathers on display. Ignoring the general vanity and unpleasantness, one can’t help but applaud the sushi – if there was one winner in the sushi wars of the noughties, then Sakana was it. $$ Sushi Zushi (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 420 3373, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-03:00; Sun 13:00-22:00, www.sushizushi.pl The mania for sushi is in recess, and that’s a good thing – the rogue operators are dead or dying off, and are survived by the best.

And make no mistake, Sushi Zushi continue to be the No. 1 ex-pat choice. Appreciated by a stunning crowd, the rolls are often bold, creative and always astonishingly fresh. $$ Tekeda Sushi & Ramen ul. Meissnera 1/3, tel. 606 236 050, open 12:00-22:00, sushitekeda.pl Expansion is

the name of the game. Already established in New Town, Tekeda’s latest venture on the other side of the river ticks boxes for its sushi, though it’s the ramen dishes everyone is talking about. Using free range produce and traditional techniques from the Kyushiu region of Japan, you won’t find better ramen in the country.

Tekeda Sushi & Wok (D1) ul. Freta 18, tel. 600 351 818, open daily 12:00-22:00, www.sushitekeda.pl Tekeda get it right with a good balance of sushi and wok dishes, making it a popular destination with locals and passing tourists alike. The grilled maki is particularly pleasing. $$ Tomo (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2344, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.tomo.pl Excellent.

While Warsaw’s other sushi stops gather cobwebs Tomo packs out each night – that should say enough. With the maki, sushi and sashimi bobbing past on wooden platters,

this place aims for fast, maximum turnover without ever making the diner feel second best. $$ Wabu (D5) ul. Krucza 41/43, tel. 22 628 9274, wabu.pl Sushi gets a five star makeover in Wabu, a place that proudly proclaims that they have no menu: instead, ‘every dish is a unique composition’ prepped by their chefs according to your whims. You might find your whims influenced by the works of author Haruki Murakami – sections of his texts are occasionally read out at night, while the sushi masters chop up dishes mentioned in his books. $$$

jewish Galil (C3) ul. Zielna 36, tel. 731 492 634, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Sun 14:00-23:00, www.galil-restaurant.pl There’s been a few Jewish restaurants opened in the last couple

The best flavors are created using passion

CENTER: ul. Żurawia 47/49, tel +48 (22 621 82 68 open 7:00 - 22:00 ŻOLIBORZ: ul. Felińskiego 52, tel. +48 608 046 406 open 9:00 - 20:00 www. smakiwarszawy.pl

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listings / restaurants of years, and they’ve all quickly folded.

Already though, there’s the impression Galil might last the distance, a point underlined by the rather good food. We started with a zesty tabouleh before moving on to grilled chicken breast with dates and a syrup glaze. Set inside a rambling, tiled interior, this labyrinthine space already looks like its snaring big-spending groups. Kosher certified, as well. $$ Pod Samsonem (C1) ul. Freta 3/5, tel. 22 831 1788, open 10:0023:00, www.podsamsonem.pl Operating since the 1950s – crazy when you think about it. This is the place for an ordinary meal in an ordinary space. The menu mixes aspects of Polish and Jewish cooking, and fails to do a good job of either. Entertainment is provided by the staff: find them engaged in something akin to war with the people they serve. $

latin & mexican Aioli (D3) ul. Świętokrzyska 18, tel. 22 290 102, open Sun-Thu 9:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 9:00-24:00, www.aioli-cantine.com This runaway hit has taken Warsaw by storm. It’s a jaunty space with hams hanging from hooks and long communal tables that thrive with life.

Aioli’s breakfasts, sandwiches, pastas and pizzas are a lesson in clean, simple pleasure: nothing out of the world, just consistently good. This and the liberal prices mean there’s

no shortage of people passing in and out the doors. $$ Blue Cactus (E8) ul. Zajączkowska 11, tel. 22 851 2323, open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 9:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, www.bluecactus.pl It’s been around for so long that people had started referring to the Cactus in the past tense. Enter executive chef Patrick Hanna, a man who has revitalized and revived the place in a way no-one could have imagined. Combining the barbecuing techniques of the southern states with the humble but potent tastes of Mexico, Hanna has reawakened this sleeping giant.

Committed to local produce and fresh flavors, his finest moment has been hoiking over a wood-fired grill all the way from Nashville – the steaks will stop you in your tracks. Say it loudly: the Blue Cactus is back! $ Casa Pablo (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5A, tel. 22 324 5781, open Mon-Sat 12:00-last guest, www.casapablo. pl While increasingly well represented in the capital, Spanish food has been pointed in a new direction by Casa Pablo. Breaking away from hackneyed clichés, the eclectic interior (tartan colors, crates, a century old mirror) is reflective of a menu that places equal importance on flair, quality and elements of fine dining. Based on the ‘creative Spanish’ movement, find the likes of pork ribs in hoi sin and honey sauce introduced, not to mention cod cooked at 45° and served with pigs trotters. You’ll be amazed. $$

Dos Tacos (D4) ul. Jasna 22, tel. 22 243 4618, open 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00, dostacos. pl Dos Tacos finally have a venue worthy of the food. Featuring lots of Mexican lizard art and psychedelic, Day of the Dead touches, find the interiors busy with a lively crowd enjoying an exciting range of salsas and authentic Mexican recipes as cooked by Isabela Balderas. $$ Gringo Bar (E9) ul. Odolańska 15, tel. 22 848 9523, open Mon-Sat 12:00-20:00; Sun 11:00-20:00 A Mexican wave is upon us, and high time too. After years of suffering frozen ingredients, timid flavors and daft Mariachi music to persuade us it’s all authentic, a raft of new cut-price eateries are showing the rest how it’s done. Cooked and folded by fist bumping lads in back-to-front caps and baggy t-shirts, the food at Gringo is the best of the bunch: fiery, fresh and full of zing.

Jamon (D2) ul. Wierzbowa 9, tel. 22 692 4223, open 12:00-23:00, jamon.pl The place looks the biz – custom made artwork presents swirling senoritas against an interior that’s based around a naval color palette and reclaimed wood touches. Perfect for hot dates. There’s an onus on authenticity, and that’s evidenced by the four Spaniards found in the kitchen.

We could find no weak point, meaning complete enjoyment of the tranche of black Alaskan cod, bulgy-eyed Huelva prawns and

Business lunch for 19pln all month!

Le Cedre 61

opposite the zoo Al. Solidarności 61, Praga Tel 22 670 11 66

Le Cedre 84

opposite the court Al. Solidarności 84 Tel 22 618 89 99

www.lecedre.pl

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listings / restaurants slow-roasted lamb shank. The desert – white chocolate cream – is worth a prize. $$ La Fiesta Tequila Bar (E4) ul. Foksal 21, tel. 22 829 8560, open 12:00-3:00, www.lafiesta.pl What was once a pretty diabolical Mexican joint has, apparently, experienced a dramatic volte face. The sombreros and crap have been replaced by a psychedelic, Day of the Dead-style featuring skeletal Mariachi men, not to mention no shortage of tequila bottles. But the real gossip is reserved for the kitchen: gone are the fraudsters who used to work here, and in their place is Jorge Martinez – no guessing where he’s from. Is his menu up to scratch?

Absolutely no idea. We left after having a run-in with the worst service experienced since the Cold War ended. $ Ole Tapas (E5) ul. Bracka 2, tel. 519 875 767, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www. ole-restaurant.pl A dual level wine bar and restaurant with a modern spirit and a Flamenco vibe. Don’t let the name fool you: while the tapas are good, it’s the steak most people come for. Choice here includes aged Spanish beef and Kobe cow. $$

Tapas Gastrobar (A4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 251 1310, open Mon-Thu 12:00-last guest (kitchen closes at 23:00); Fri-Sat 12:00-last guest (kitchen closes at midnight); Sun 12:00-19:00 (kitchen closes at 18:00), tapasbar.pl The engaging design features scuffed timber tables supported by rescued factory metal, open ductwork and elaborate floor tiles of Iberian persuasion. But the food is what everyone is talking about: the first class gazpacho, prepared onsite then served in a bottle, is full of refreshing summer zing, while the beef cheek is pure melty tenderness. Our favorite, though, are the patatas bravas, perfectly fried potatoes served in a ballsy tomato sauce.

BEST WAWA 2014 Just amazing. $$ “Casual Dining” Spoco Loco (H4) ul. Francuska 8, open 12:00-21:00, www. spocoloco.pl It begins with a bead of sweat.

Then a couple of tears. Then the real pain starts and doesn’t retract until you’ve rolled on the floor and died for twenty minutes.

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Spoco Loco’s No. 7 sauce is no laughing matter, and should be treated with respect.

But this tiny eatery is not founded on gimmicks. The burritos and quesadillas are the real deal, and ably supported by a choice of milder sauces that don’t require Red Cross treatment. After a mysterious absence of six months, it’s heartening to see Spoco Loco back open for business. $ Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46 (entrance from ul. Poznańska), tel. 22 621 8622, open 12:00-last guest, www.warsawtortillafactory.pl Howling hot salsas and freshly made tortillas give WTF a head start on other restaurants, but there are other strings to their poncho: the menu has been slimmed and continues to be tinkered with, while the introduction of zł. 15 lunches – served on Alcatraz trays – present one of the best deals in town. We’ve enjoyed the burritos here for years, and score them as amongst the best around. $$

middle eastern HeyooDubai (B2) Al. Jana Pawła 45/54, tel. 535 075 770, open 11:00-23:00, tagine.pl Any doubts you have about a restaurant trying to cover the cuisine of Morocco, Pakistan and the Gulf states is immediately dispelled by the thick, rich aromas that pour from the traditional Mandi oven. The couscous is stalwart, and the charcoal grilled chicken a dish of real standing. Affordable and casual, Heyoo is the real deal. $$

Le Cedre (E1) Al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166, open daily 11:00-23:00, www.lecedre.pl With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops. $$ Le Cedre 84 (B3) Al. Solidarności 84, tel. 22 618 8999, open 11:00-23:00, www. lecedre.pl Le Cedre just

keep on getting it right. Authenticity is key in this chainlette (well, there’s another across the river), as you’ll discover when talking to Tony, the Lebanese owner. To see the diversity of this cuisine, order the balbaak (six cold starters) or the byblos (six hot). And food aside, it’s the atmosphere that carries them that extra yard: the whole philosophy of this cuisine is to share and share alike, making it a uniquely engaging experience when dining with friends. $$ Samira ul. Powsińska 64A, tel. 22 825 3363, open 10:00-21:00; Sun 12:00-18:00, samira.pl There was something a little seedy about Samira’s old location, but that’s all forgotten in their new digs on Powsińska. Find this great Lebanese supermarket filling a dual role as an authentic restaurant serving authentic dishes such as kafta and shawarma. $$ Sokotra (D5) ul. Wilcza 27, tel. 22 270 2766, open Mon-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.sokotra.pl A Yemeni restaurant with a brief menu full of recognizable Eastern dishes like hummus and grilled halloumi. And one of the big boons is the discovery that Indian influences also fall under the compass of Yemeni cuisine – the madras leaves you puffing smoke rings. Find all that in a casual interior composed of chattery locals and mysterious concrete additions – e.g. a telegraph pole squeezed amid the tables. $$

polish Ale Gloria (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7080, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.alegloria.pl Who said romance was dead? Here wedding white colors are fused with a strawberry motif inside this gourmet fave. Keeping patrons returning are aromatic dishes with a contemporary twist – try the duck in rose sauce. $$$

Amber Room at the Sobański Palace (E6) Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat 12:00-22:30; Sun 12:00-20:00, www.amberroom.pl The

listings / restaurants Amber Room is, indeed, a bit of a treasure.

Chef Robert Skubisz has excelled himself in creating a menu that injects upmarket Polish dishes with contemporary flair. Set inside a majestic mansion, the recommendation they’ve received from Michelin is justly deserved. $$$ Atelier Amaro (E6) ul. Agrykola 1, tel. 22 628 5747, open Mon-Sat 12:00-14:30; 18:00-22:30, www.ww(and only) Michelin star, Atelier promotes pedigree Polish produce enhanced by modern techniques, with courses interspersed by occasionally bizarre interludes (leaves, flowers, twigs, etc.). Don’t miss the bespoke vodka menu, either. It’s an extraordinary dining experience, and one which confirms the growing cult of chef Wojciech Amaro. In the hours you’re here, the world stops and you leave feeling like James Bond. Reservations are mandatory, with a waiting list that is approximately two to three months long. $$$ BEST WAWA 2014 “Presentation”

Biała Gęś (F8) ul. Belwederska 18A, tel. 22 840 5060, open 12:00-last guest (kitchen to 23:00); Sun 12:00-22:00, www.bialages.pl For that elegant touch of Zhivago-era class, it’s got to be Biała Gęś. Interiors conjure images of a countryside manor; you imagine rolling up here after a day shooting foxes. Yet it’s not those blighters on the menu, but geese.

That’s the house specialty, and you’d do well to find better. A whole bird for four is yours for zł. 490. $$$ Bistro Warszawa (D1) ul. Jezuicka 1/3, tel. 22 635 3769, open daily 12:00-24:00, www.bistrowarszawa.pl The menu cites pre-war recipe books as its influence, and on it you’ll find such dishes as goose in thyme sauce with pear and zucchini. The interiors are strictly contemporary though, with vanilla colored furnishings, wine racks and walls papered with hundreds of theater scripts and book pages. Regular jazz performances draw people city-wide. $$

Bazyliszek (D1) Rynek Starego Miasto 1/3, tel. 22 831 1841, open daily 12:00-24:00, www.bazyliszek. waw.pl Some parts of Bazyliszek hark to its years as a stately, stuffy restaurant.

Now though it’s more earthy, with Jurassic portions of meaty, lardy food best consumed with one-liter beers. The Rynek location and festive atmosphere account for its popularity more than anything that comes from the kitchen. $

Chłopskie Jadło (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1717, open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00 A nationwide chain enterprise designed to mimic a peasant inn, what with all the clunky pots and rustic supplements. And if it’s farmers fare you’re after then the food isn’t bad either, with thick, lumpy servings of countryside classics and soup presented in bread. Twenty-something Poles cringe at such a representation of their country, but there’s no denying it: it’s an accurate caricature of a mountain-slope karczma. $

Belvedere Łazienki Królewskie ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. 22 558 6701, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-20:00, belvedere.com.pl Regarded as one of the great names on Warsaw’s culinary carousel, this restaurant never ceases to impress: set in a imperial age glass orangery, it’s festooned with intricate latticework and botanical exotica. The updated interiors are the work of acclaimed set designer Boris Kudlicka, and lend a fresh, contemporary tone that goes hand in hand with Adam Komar’s menu. But behind the gels and emulsions and pretty little swirls, this is cooking of substantial depth; it’s cooking that takes you to the very soul of Polish nature. $$$

Czerwony Wieprz (Red Hog) (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 22 850 3144, open daily 12:00-24:00 (kitchen to 23:00), www.czerwonywieprz.pl Now everyone is rich and happy, it’s easy to forget communism was a pretty dire experiment. Which explains the playful nature of this commie themed restaurant. Dining is done under red banners and paintings of nasty political activists, while the menu is a humorous affair divided between dishes for the dignitary and proletariat – all details that saw it names as one of the Top 25 Unique Restaurants in the World. Another vodka, comrade, and the First Secretary’s pork loins while you’re there! $$

Dawne Smaki (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 49, tel. 22 465 83 20, open Sun-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-1:00, www.dawnesmaki.pl At last, a proper restaurant on Nowy Świat! The interiors hark to the past, while the back garden promises an oasis-like experience: if you’re new to Warsaw, it’s actually worth hanging around till summer just to see it. Chef Michał Bajerski, formerly of Regina Hotel, wraps it up nicely with a fantastic menu that modernizes traditional Polish recipes. Recommended: deer steak. $$ Delicja Polska (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 64, tel. 22 826 4770, open daily 12:00-last guest, www. delicjapolska.pl Looking stately (pink bows, gilt touches and immaculate linen) but never stuffy, Delicja have a modern Polish menu that includes sous-vide salmon marinated in beetroot leave, then topped with horseradish foam and dill emulsion. Brilliant. But then so was everything else we tried, including the exquisite seasoned roast beef. $$

Dom Polski (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 2432, open daily 12:00-last guest, www.restauracjadompolski.pl Almost like it was designed for the manor born, Dom Polski has the rarefied atmosphere of a country retreat: bow-tied staff who click their heels, decorative antiques and a menu that’s a sumptuous anthology of posh Polish cooking. When you need to give visitors a sense of classic Warsaw, Dom Polski is the first out of the hat. $$$

Folk Gospoda (B3) ul. Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605, open daily 12:00-midnight, www.folkgospoda.pl Be honest, sometimes all you want to do is slather lard on a big hunk of bread before surrounding yourself with little shots of ice cold vodka. You wouldn’t call it cultivated, but there are occasions when a good knees-up around a rough wooden table is exactly what’s required. And while you’re there, why not add platters of meat to the scene, a crackling fireplace and a mountain band. Folk Gospoda do all that making them the default favorite for a traditional night out. $$ www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / restaurants Halka Restaurcja po polsku ul. Puławska 43, tel. 509 593 305, open Mon-Fri 11:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-22:00, restauracjahalka.pl Named in honor of one of Poland’s best known operas, Halka offer a glimpse of old school Warsaw. Having relocated from downtown Pańska, the new address is a cut and paste of the former location: lots of glinting surfaces, ornate crockery and pink flower arrangements. Innovation is surrendered for a menu that deals in classic interpretations of upmarket Polish food: rabbit, goose, duck and other animals shot on country estates.

Jaś & Małgosia (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 57, tel. 502 033 711, klubjasimalgosia.pl Back from the dead!

An institution dating from the 60s, Jaś & Małgosia have reopened after a three year hiatus. Updated they might be, but the design (concrete floors, exposed brickwork) features several nods to the past – not least a replica of the famous neon that once crowned the roof. The menu was designed in collaboration with Aleksander Baron, and while unglamorous and uncomplicated is food that represents all that’s good about the Polish kitchen: thick soups, fresh vegetables and hefty meat. Most of all, it makes you feel good on a wet, windy day. $ Kafe Zielony Niedwiedz (E4) ul. Smolna 4, tel. 731 996 006, open 8:00-23:00. The Smolna address is a bit misleading – in reality, you’ll be traipsing down into the park under the ‘hammer head’ tower before reaching Zbyszek Kmieć’s restaurant. But you’ll be glad you did. The menu has hints of Atelier Amaro in its fiendish attention to natural Polish produce: the cream of beetroot soup is peerless, and the boar ragout gains similar approval. This is a happy marriage where traditions are turned on their head using creative techniques and precise presentation. At the same time, be warned the scene here might not appeal: it’s very stars in your eyes as Polish celebs – both major and minor – swan about while their acolytes simper. $$ Kuchnia Funkcjonalna (G3) ul. Jakubowska 16 (enter from ul. Estońska), tel. 512 893 898, open Mon-Thu 11:0023:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-23:00 Snuck inside one of Saska’s definitive modernist buildings, the opening of Kuchnia has made slow food accessible to all wallets. Venison from the Bieszczady Mountains, dairy products from Jersey cattle milk, and the use of goose fat instead of butter are just a few noteworthy characteristics; the frequently changing menu reflects the commitment to nature. The ascetic design is softened by a cast-iron stove and moody lighting, giving the restaurant a warm, seasonal glow. $$ Mała Polana Smaków ul. Belwederska 13, tel. 22 400 8048, open 12:00-22:00 Andrzej Polan, the chef that made the recently expired Soul Kitchen such a cult experience, is back! Taking up quarters in what was once Central Park, his menu grasps concepts of ‘fresh’ and ‘natural’

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and presents the tastes of Poland through a skilled modern eye. $$ Oycowizna ul. Słoneczna 241 (Lesznowola), tel. 22 713 8993, open 11:00-23:00, oycowizna.pl A bucolic country cottage set 20 clicks from Warsaw is home to this charmer of a hotel / restaurant. Filled with hanging pots, pans and horseshoes, there’s something authentically Polish about it all. Same goes for the menu, which is a deliciously filling rundown of the Old Polish kitchen. $$ Podwale Piwna Kompania (D2) ul. Podwale 25, tel. 22 635 6314, open MonSat 11:00-01:00; Sun 12:00-24:00, www. podwale25.pl Set through a courtyard that replicates a Mitteleuropa square, Podwale has a beer hall atmosphere that’s further exaggerated when mountain bands circulate.

Food is of average standard and served in portions that are obscene – finishing the wooden platters can be seriously traumatic.

Go there for the experience, if nothing else. $ Prasowy (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16, open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-19:00 Delicate diners turn their back on milk bars, yet this canteen-style phenomenon, with its history rooted in communism, has enjoyed a remarkable renaissance and a freshly found popularity with a new generation. Sure, the food is an acquired taste and best described using words like ‘basic’ and ‘honest’, but Prasowy gets our vote for a cool design that’s seen the 1954 interiors sensitively updated. $ Przystawki (B1) ul. Stawki 3, tel. 22 299 1619, open 10:00-22:00, przystawki.com Welcome to Muranów: the black hole of local gastronomy.

But change is in the air – first came the opening of Jaś i Małgosia, and now comes Przy Stawki. Both keep it simple, gunning for a straight forward menu that presents the kind of cooking you’d like to see at the in-laws: local ingredients cooked with care.

In a nutshell, this is Polish home cooking at moderate prices. More places like this, please. $ Restauracja Pod Gigantami (E5) Al. Ujadowskie 24, tel. 22 629 2312, open daily 12:00-23:00, www.podgigantami.pl Despite being judged worthy of a recommendation by the scouts at Michelin, Pod Gigantami divides local opinion; it’s not

listings / restaurants just the Insider that’s found the food only satisfactory. But the wine list impresses, as do the painfully ornate turn-of-the-century interiors. $$$ Restauracja Polska “Różana” (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 22 848 1225, open 12:00-last guest, www.restauracjarozana. com.pl The rarified atmosphere of Różana is a pleasure indeed. Close to the frontline of Mokotów / Śródmieście, you’d never guess the proximity of the center. Seated in their garden, one feels removed from the city – a fountain burbles quietly in the background, starlings hop around the trees.

From the inside, one hears the distant tinkle of the house pianist. Just being here is a thrill in itself, and the food is a Polish dining extravaganza served from the top table: farmhouse duck, saddle of venison, etc.

Słoik (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 600 396 688, open Mon-Fri 10:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-23:00, restauracjasloik.pl Jarheads will love Słoik, a place lined with glass jars brimming with colorful ingredients and bright preserves. Find natural Polish produce and traditional-sounding dishes treated with a careful and contemporary hand. The approach pits modernist against classic, and the winner is, well, you.

This is traditional Polish food updated for the discerning, latter day palate – and it’s really quite something. $$ U Fukiera (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 27 (Old Town Market Square), tel. 22 831 1013, open 12:00-last guest, www.ufukiera.pl New arrivals looking to get a grasp of local cuisine have many options in varying price brackets. U Fukiera is definitely in the big spend category, but visitors come away with a common sense of wonderment. That’s largely due to enchanting interiors that have guests exploring twinkling chambers that unravel like a fairytale. Set in a 500 year old townhouse, the beautiful backdrop is paired by a grand menu of duck, venison, veal and lamb. $$$ U Szwejka (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1710, open Mon-Fri 8:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-24:00, www.uszwejka.pl Named after the fictional Czech soldier Szwejk, the food here would certainly appeal to the tubby man himself. Bestowed with Prague street signs, the food is a hardy, meaty affair, and arrives in XXXL portions. The price to quantity (Note:

not quality) ratio guarantees queues (yes, queues) that stretch out on the street every weekend, though it’ll be curious to see if the crowds still pack in following the loss of their alcohol license. Food like this really needs beer – without it, well, you be the judge. $$

Zapiecek Locations inc. ul. Nowy Świat 64, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska 13, tel. 22 635 61 09, open 11:00-23:00 & ul. Wańkowicza 1, open 11:00-22:00, CH Arkadia, open 10:00-22:00, www.zapiecek.eu Seven Warsaw locales, with our favorite found in the vaulted passages of Świętojańska. The menu is highly traditional, with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’.

It’s for the pierogi though for which they’re famous; find approx. fifty types delivered by servers dressed like saucy country maids. $

Grzegorz of Crazy Butcher.

Befsztyk ul. Puławska 176/178, tel. 22 843 6110, www.befsztyk.pl The Prokopowicz family has come a long way since launching Befsztyk in 1994. Top restaurants, celebs and ex-pats are listed as clients, and all agree that this operation is indisputably ‘top of the chops’.

Find steaks seasoned for three weeks, gluten-free smoked meats, Merino lamb, BBQ kits and so much more. Home delivery, internet ordering and English-speaking staff round out this legend.

scandinavian Nabo ul. Zakręt 8, tel. 22 842 0256, open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:30; Sat-Sun 9:00-21:30, www. nabocafe.pl The décor is, we’re told, typical Danish cafe – bold open windows, simple lines, high shelves filled with books and games on the table. But what is Danish food?

There’s Old Danish on the menu: meatballs and open face sandwiches with meat and fish in various textural configurations and then there’s New Danish: an emerging trend towards fresh, seasonal food (no microwave oven at Nabo), with locally sourced and innovatively concocted ingredients. $$

RESTAURANT & COCKTAIL BAR

restaurant with a cocktail bar in the BUSTLING center of Warsaw, invites YOU to TASTE THE BEST OF Polish cuisine.

specialty food shops Bazar Olkuska (E10) ul. Olkuska 12, open Mon-Fri 8:00-19:00; Sat 7:30-16:00 Once a sad little side street, Olkuska has evolved to become just about the worst kept secret in Warsaw. Home to the city’s top eco-market, trips here end with shopping bags filled with French cheeses, Italian hams, Hungarian sausages and fresh fruit and veg. And don’t miss a chat with the nation’s most celebrated butcher: Pan www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / restaurants Bio Bazar (B4) ul. Żelazna 51/53, tel. 22 318 8855, open Sat 8:00-16:00, www.biobazar.org.pl Fruit and veg in the first warehouse, some of it imported from as far as Argentina. In the second warehouse, find organic cheese varieties from sheep and goats, as well as import brands from Italy, France and the Netherlands.

Kosher Shop (C4) ul. Twarda 6 Snuck to the side of the synagogue, stock up on Kosher produce from the friendly store, before hitting up the falafel tent outside for, aside from the obvious, kosher ice cream.

Kuchnie Świata Various locations, www.kuchnieswiata.com. pl The first stop for most ex-pats, with an offer that includes food and drinks from across the globe. The choice is vast. Internet ordering now also available.

La Fromagerie (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 465 2324, open Mon-Wed 9:00-20:00; Thu-Fri 9:00-21:00; Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 11:30-17:00, www. lafromagerie.pl Top quality cheeses produced by small, artisan producers from England, the major regions of France as well as several other countries. Also, gourmet specialities like Italian parma ham, Spanish chorizo, French sausages, and hard-to-find luxury brands from France, Italy, Greece and more.

Martin’s Good Meat ul. Przejazd 4/7, tel. 797 866 131, open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00 Angus, Hereford and Limousine beef, not to mention lamb, veal and seasoned steaks. A candidate for Warsaw’s best butchery, no less!

Targ Śniadaniowy al. Wojska Polskiego, tel. 508 121 891, open Sat 8:00-16:00, www.targsniadaniowy.pl The idea is a bit different as it is out in the open air, on the grass, so good weather is a must.

Part healthy food market, part breakfast picnic, part educational space, part chance to get your two wheeler fixed but above all, an idyllic way to spend a Saturday morning in a beautiful part of town.

steak houses Butchery & Wine (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 502 3118,

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open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00, www. butcheryandwine.pl Has it really been that long? Opened to wide acclaim in 2011, Butchery & Wine stirred Warsaw’s appetite for quality red meat. Served on wooden boards by staff in butchers aprons, the steaks are beyond reproach and the wine list suited to the meat fest in front. Many hail this as Poland’s best steak, and you can definitely see where they’re coming from. $$ Downtown Restaurant (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental Hotel, level 2), tel. 22 328 8745, open Mon-Fri for Breakfast 6:30-10:00; Sat 6:30-11:00, 12:00-15:00, 18:00-23:00; Sat 12:0016:00, Sunday Brunch 12:30-16:00, dinner 18:00-23:00 There’s now a few candidates for Warsaw’s best steak, and Downtown have certainly upped the erm, stakes, with their new menu. Yes, the doors of Downtown are a gateway to heaven – particularly true if, like us, your vision of heaven is a rich green field filled with fat, juicy cows. But don’t for one moment assume the offer ends with cows. Now added to their menu are other animalitos like kangaroo. $$$ Hoża (D5) ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 603 778 275, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, hoza.warszawa.pl Wine and steak: it sounds so simple, but Hoża have taken two simple pleasures to another level. It’s a vibrant space with service right out of charm school, and a kitchen team with a real knowledge of cows. A red-blooded affair, the menu is a steak sensation and well paired with a handpicked wine list. $$ Merliniego 5 (E10) ul. Merliniego 5, tel. 22 646 0810, www. merliniego5.pl Set up like a New York bistro, Merliniego has a classic look that’s sophisticated but never snooty. Knowledgeable service and exceptional steaks have made it one of the prime choices for those who value both meat and wine. $$$ Muu Muu (D2) ul. Moliera 8, tel. 22 465 1553, open daily 12:00-last guest, www.muumuu.pl A life-size cow with a menu chained around its neck stands outside as if to say: “turn back now, vegetarians.” Looking sparky, fun and engaging the décor is composed of light woods and soft touches, not to mention blackboard slogans such as ‘Eat Meat’ and ‘Love Bacon’. The heart of their act is

indeed meat, and involves T-bone, rib eye, chateaubriand not to mention a few burgers.

The standard is high, but so too the prices.

Our otherwise excellent sirloin was spoiled somewhat by limp, soggy chips that came at zł. 10 extra. $$ Salto (C6) ul. Wilcza 73, tel.

22 584 8771, www. saltorestauracja. pl When Martin Gimenez Castro scooped top prize in the Top Chef program it simply confirmed what foodies had known for years: that this is a man of some talent. Now leading the kitchen in Salto, the highlight of Castro’s menu is undoubtedly the ‘steak weekends’.

We challenge you to find better. During the week opt instead for his South American inspired dishes. Salto has the hallmarks of a success story, and under Castro’s captaincy that’s a certainty to happen. $$$

thai Basil & Lime (E8) ul. Puławska 27, tel. 22 126 1943, open 11:00-23:00, www.basil-lime.pl Reports have been hit and miss, with one Insider noting calamitous service and food that was both over and undercooked. Not on our visit, though. Short and to the point, the menu is defined by its clarity, and we enjoyed a phenomenal yellow curry and banana fritters with the right combo of crunch and goo.

Beautifully decorated with charcoal colors and punches of lime, the Insider felt good long after visiting. Will you? $$ my’o’tai (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8 (enter on Górskiego), tel.

662 742 901, open Mon-Thu 12:00-24:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-3:00, Sun 12:00-21:00 While the menu lacks standard Thai dishes (no noodles!?), the tastes are thoroughly authentic and a credit to chef Trisno Hamidis. The caramelized spicy chicken wings are so good you’ll think about ordering them twice. $$ Natara Old Town (D1) ul. Szeroki Dunaj 13, tel. 22 635 2501, open 11:00-23:00, www.natara.pl Last year saw Natara considerably outgunned by the competition, but it remains a top Thai choice.

Set inside the old town walls, the exterior looks magical, so it’s disappointing to find an interior that’s all dowdy brown and droopy plants. The food though remains consistently

OLIVA_PRZEPIS_46x206_FINAL 2015.03

listings / restaurants good thanks to an owner who is committed to true Thai tastes. $$ Naam Thai ul. Saska 16, tel. 505 110 100, open Mon 16:00-23:00; Tue-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-21:30 An anonymous design and an out-of-center location have done nothing to hurt Naam’s reputation as Warsaw’s best Thai. Bangkok-born Chanunkan Duangkumma is the reason for this success, and her duck soup – made according to a secret family recipe – is full of spices, depth and twists.

Book ahead to avoid disappointment. $$ Suparom Thai (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 45/49, tel. 22 627 1888, open daily 11:00-23:00, www.suparomthaifood.pl Lovely interior with Siamese gold ornaments and gleaming dark wood. The shrimp cakes are always worth a try. $$ Suparom Thaifood II al. Wilanowska 309, tel. 22 853 3087, open 10:00-21:00, www.suparomthaifood. pl Tiny, when compared to its parent on Marszałkowska, and distinctly unassuming.

Suparom’s green curry is the ‘best in the world’ according to one reader, and while such a superlative begs for a challenge, none is forthcoming – not from us, anyhow. $$ Thai Thai (C2) Pl. Teatralny 3, tel. 601 818 283, open 12:0023:00 The loss of the original chef, Sanad Changpuen, has had a ripple-down effect on the final product. There’s a competence to the dishes, but a basic lack of fire and dazzle. It’s decent enough for Warsaw, but those who’ve had the real thing leave underwhelmed. What a shame that is, because in terms of design its little short of perfect: gold vaulted interiors lend a muted glow to a largely black on black space while serene looking Buddha’s peer on the diners below. $$

Krowarzywa (D5) ul. Hoża 42, tel. 516 894 767, open Sun-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00 Even committed meat eaters concede there’s something special here. This is a burger bar with a difference: the stuff between the bun is vegan – and way superior to the majority of ‘proper’ burger bars. Very popular with the local hipsters, so anticipate bewildering fashion statements and eccentric hair. $ Loving Hut (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 41A, tel. 888 555 568, open Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00; Sun 12:00-20:00, www.lovinghut.waw.pl What looks like just another Vietnamese greasy spoon is, in fact, part of a global chain backed by a spiritual master. The reading material is creepy and cultish, but the vegan food is good if you’re that way inclined. Now also found downtown on Waryńskiego 3. $ Pestka (D4) ul. Bracka 6/8, tel. 691 706 900, open Mon-Fri 8:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-19:00; Sun 12:00-19:00, www.organicbistro-pestka. pl A simple, soothing space of sparing decorations, light modern finishes and plenty of natural light that gushes through the windows. Eschewing the fat and lard that used to feature so prominently in local living, Pestka is all about organic: consider it a gateway to sensible living and a balanced diet. Even the fish is tested for high metal content. Recommended are the bio-baguettes, corn tortilla wraps and wholemeal pancakes. $

whole foods

Vegan Pizza (D5) ul. Poznańska 7, open 12:00-22:00 While the place lacks effort on the design front (a plain room with local radio piped around), the pizza is pretty good. There’s 24 to pick from, and while it’s not love at first bite, there’s a tendency to get strangely hooked by the new tastes and alien sensations. Definitely an interesting departure from the high street pizzerias. Recommended: Italian Madness – melty cheese and herby bursts of pesto. $

Jamniczek (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 68/70, open 11:00-21:00 This small dual-level nook specializes in vegan hot dogs and healthy non-alc cocktails.

Foregoing factory floor snips and tails, principle fillings include millet, tofu and spinach. Taste-wise it does well, but you can’t help but feel they’ve got the proportions all wrong: heaps of salad, massive baguettes, but only a thin little ‘dog’ in the middle. $

W Gruncie Rzeczy (D5) ul. Hoża 62, tel. 692 464 489, open 10:00-23:00 A vegan haven whose menu is heavily slanted towards local produce. The offer includes a number of vegan pastes, sandwiches, beetroot burgers and soups (e.g. cream of pumpkin with coconut milk). The presence of equally hip Meat Love next door is something of a foil, with the two neighbors naturally complimenting each other. $

homemade pâté on spicy crostini CHICKEN LIVER PÂTÉ

500g chicken liver 30ml of rapeseed oil 250g butter 2 heads of white onions ½ teaspoon of dried thyme 50ml brandy Sea salt, freshly ground pepper 1 baguette 1 chili pepper

RASPBERRY MOUSSE

100g raspberries (can be frozen) 20ml of water 20g sugar

On a large frying pan, fry diced onions with rapeseed oil and two tablespoons of butter. Add dried thyme and chicken liver, fry approx. 5 minutes. Pour brandy, evaporate liquid to half volume. Liver should be juicy in the middle but not raw, season with salt and pepper. Place warm liver into a deep container, add diced butter, mix it to a smooth cream, then rub through a sieve and leave in the fridge to coagulate.

Raspberry mousse: into the saucepan pour a glass of water, sugar and 100g raspberries, bring it to boil, then blend it to a mix. Rub through a fine sieve. Set aside to cool.

Cut baguette into small angled slices.

Smear each with butter and chili, bake in a preheated oven at 180°C for 4 minutes.

On top of the croutons put a spoonful of pâté, add a little mousse with raspberries.

Enjoy... or visit us! restauracjaoliva.pl Warszawa, Ordynacka 10/12 open 12 am - 11 pm phone +48 501 497 410 facebook.com/RestauracjaOliva twitter.com/OlivaWarszawa

www.warsawinsider.pl

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cafes & wine bars NEW & NOTEWORTHY

COPHI (ul. Hoża 58/60) Deviating away from ‘the Warsaw look’ (i.e. concrete, pipes, etc.), Cophi is the kind of place you actually want to stay in: homey and intimate but at the same time light and modern. You can sense the thought and passion behind this operation from the staff – find them using Aeropress, Chemex, siphon and drip methods with almost scientific precision in their quest to serve you what some are already claiming to be Warsaw’s best coffee.

bakeries Café Vincent (D3) ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. 22 828 0115, open Sun-Thu 6:30-24:00; Fri-Sat 6:30-1:00 Ex-pats from France, a nation of master bakers if ever there were, profess Vincent to be their favorite Warsaw bakery. And they’re not alone. Queues build quickly as locals line up to buy baguettes, cinnamon rolls, lemon croissants and beautiful pains au chocolat.

But people don’t just head in then out, a small wine list and brilliant people spying opportunities cause most to linger.

Charlotte (D6) Al. Wyzwolenia 18 (enter from pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 662 204 555, bistrocharlotte. com The battle lines are drawn: on one side it’s the slobs of Plan B, and on the other the snobs of Charlotte. While the fancy crowd (all jangling Porsche keys and idiotic selfies) isn’t to everyone’s liking, Charlotte’s baked goods are commonly hailed as things of rare beauty.

Monique Bakery & Wine (D5) ul. Krucza 41/43, tel. 22 629 3974, moniquebakery.pl Reports have been hit and miss about Monique, with some citing spotty service and heavy handed prices. Even so, their baguettes and croissants always hit the mark.

Przystanek Piekarnia (D6) ul. Koszykowa 58, przystanekpiekarnia.pl The atmosphere is brisk and buzzing inside what’s emerged as the breadbasket of choice for Warsaw’s fashionistas. An interesting design authored by architect Maciej Kurkowski makes use of dozens of wooden slats that seemingly cascade from the ceiling, but make no mistake, the talking point is the bread and luxurious pastries.

ZNAK ZAPYTANIA (ul. Puławska 42) Okay, so it’s not technically new, but it’s certainly notable. Discovered only recently by the Insider, Zap is the kind of place you wished you had next door: lively, a little hidden and carefully decorated: bricks walls, contemporary sofas and zippy graphics. Drinks include the botanical tastes of Fentimans, homemade lemonades and artisan beers. Glug them down with a daily menu big on seasonal produce.

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SAM (E3) ul. Lipowa 7, tel. 606 836 836, www.sam.info.pl A central, communal table is flanked by smaller satellite tables for parties of two to four while perky seasonal blooms and potted herbs lend a spark of freshness. Co-owner Małgorzata KusinaDoran is a fine-bread connoisseur, honing her skills at a bread-making course chaired

by Raymond Blanc.

listings / cafés & wine bars cafés Blikle (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 35 (check website for other locations), tel. 22 826 6619, open Mon-Sat 9:00-last guest; Sun 10:00-last guest, www. blikle.pl There’s a cultured, pre-war look to Blikle, a proud cafe with a 100 year history.

Famous former clients include Charles de Gaulle who swore by their donuts.

Bułkę przez Bibułkę (E8) ul. Puławska 24, tel. 794 000 634, open Mon-Fri 8:00-22:00; Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-16:00, www.bulkeprzezbibulke.pl There’s a feminine style to this cafe, what with its cute, girly pastels, petite plant pots and woodsy finishes. But no matter what your gender or age, there’s something immediately sunny and positive about this place.

Slow food sandwiches arrive on wooden boards, there’s pretty homemade desserts and a careful choice of wine: falling in love with it is easy.

Być Może (E7) ul. Bagatela 14, tel. 519 000 014, open 7:0023:00, www.bycmoze.com.pl It’s all about artisan bread and breakfast in the industrial looking Być Może. It’s taken the concept of Charlotte (groan, there’s even a communal table), and improved it with excellent breads and a crowd that’s a little less pleased with itself and a little more normal.

Café 6/12 (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 622 5333, open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-23:00, www.612.pl Famous for dispensing complex fruit and vegetable super smoothies, 6/12 have even introduced a full diet plan: pop-by for breakfast, then grab a goodie bag packed with balanced meals and snacks for the day ahead. Being healthy has never tasted better. Or looked better for that matter; the cavernous interiors are still very much the choice haunt for on-trend 30 something’s.

Café Iluzja (C9) ul. Narbutta 50A, tel. 698 423 738, open daily 11:00-22:00, www.cafeiluzja.pl Bathed in white, black and shades of grey, it’s an allusion to the black-and-white films of bygone days. The interiors as a whole were designed in a 1950s vibe and the massive armchairs are by far the best part. What more do you expect from a café inside a cult socialist era cinema.

Café Lorentz (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 3, tel. 606 699 199, open Mon-Wed 10:00-20:00; Thu 10:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-20:00; Sun 10:00-19:00, www. cafelorentz.pl Set at the front of the National Museum this place has a nice indoor area with high ceilings and minimalist decorations and a green outdoor area populated by wickers chairs and hammocks (obviously, depending on the season). As is the rage in Warsaw, the menu is light, natural and healthy.

Cafe Pineska ul. Wilcza 71, tel. 881 244 622, open 8:00-22:00; Sat 9:00-22:00 Owned by a trio of sisters, Pineska is a modish spot that incorporates elements of art deco, vintage and present day. With its low-slung retro armchairs, bookshelves and writing desks, it’s just the place to swing by and turn your life on pause. Home-baked croissants and cakes and tea by Harney & Sons add further incentive.

Chłodna 25 (B3) ul. Chłodna 25, tel. 604 614 287, open MonFri 9:00-22:00; Sat 11:00-22:00; Sun 12:0022:00 It’s back! Under new management, this Warsaw legend has been reclaimed from the hipsters and given over to the creative classes. A place of creaking floorboards, retro armchairs and bookshelves in the process of being filled, that this neighborhood hangout draws more than just neighbors is evidence of its greatness. And the really good bit? They’ve now got beer (Bojan, Lwówek and Goralskie) – let joy be unconfined!

Christian’s Bakerhouse (E5) ul. Książęca 6, tel. 22 628 6345, open daily 9:00-21:00, www.bakerhouse.pl “Our chef places great emphasis on quality,” confided our waitress, and that’s no word of a lie. Numerous national breakfasts are represented, from nutritious kick-starters to a full British fry-up – which we’ve yet to see bettered by anywhere in Warsaw. The pet project of celebrity chef Krystian Zalejski – and not some nutty religious order as the name might suggest – the offer extends beyond breakfast to good Italian staples cooked with a twist.

Coffee Karma (D6) pl. Zbawiciela 3/5, tel. 22 875 8709, open Mon-Fri 7:30-22:00; Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-22:00, www.coffeekarma.eu Order a smoothie, switch off the phone, open a book – it’s that sort of place. Concerts and

art shows figure in their repertoire, as does rather good coffee.

Crepe Café (E3) ul. Dobra 19, tel. 22 121 2275, open 8:00-20:00 Is there such a thing as the perfect pancake?

If not, then Crepe Café certainly comes close. Enjoy them in a contemporary interior that’s tiny in size: grab a seat up on the mezzanine level.

Cukiernia Stary Dom ul. Puławska 104/106, tel. 22 646 4208, open 12:00-23:30, restauracjastarydom.pl A beautifully elegant confectionary that evokes memories of Old Poland. Flock wallpaper and checkered floors add to the high tea ambience, as do the lines of glinting bottles and a counter stocked with temptations. Pastry chef Mariusz Palarczykow is a king in his field.

Czuła Buła (D8) ul. Narbutta 16, tel. 668 134 736, open Mon-Fri 7:30-20:00; Sat 9:00-20:00; Sun 9:00-16:00. With its whitewashed bricks and potted greenery Czuła Buła looks just about like every other café that’s opened this year.

Exceedingly pleasant as a summer spot, hats get tipped for their sandwiches, desserts and fruit concoctions. If you’re in the ’hood, why not check it out.

Czuły Barbarzyńca ul. Dobra 31, open 10:00-22:00; Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, czuly.pl A Parisian-style bookstore full of steps and wobbles, nooks and alcoves. All agree there’s something special here: maybe it’s the book selection – varied, esoteric and at once compelling. Or maybe it’s the atmosphere, such that browsers anchor themselves on the sofas to lose an afternoon with their nose in a novel while sipping drip coffee. Whatever the secret ingredient is, the bookish bustle makes it the most extraordinary literary hangout in the Polish capital.

Fawory ul. Mickiewicza 21, tel. 791 096 725, open Mon-Thur 8:00-22:00; Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 10:00-22:00 An intimate neighborhood cafe that comes complete with mugs that announce: “Fresh Coffee Tastes Better”. You bet it does. The smoothies and regional beers are just as good though, and come served inside a white interior splashed with an awesome mural. www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / cafés & wine bars Francuska 30 (H4) ul. Francuska 30, tel. 504 975 370, open Mon-Thur 8:00-23:00; Fri 8:00-24:00; Sat 9:00-24:00; Sun 9:00-22:00 An attractive modern cafe whose primary talking point is the terrace: a colorful affair shaded by dozens of umbrellas dangling from above.

Kafka Café (E3) ul. Oboźna 3, tel. 22 826 0822, open 9:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00, www. kawiarnia-kafka.pl A chessboard floor and a collection of antlers on the wall characterize Kafka, a bookstore / café whose literary collection is composed of paperbacks rescued from recycling plants. Books are purchased by their weight (zł. 10 per kilo) while the menu includes pancakes, pastas and even doggy treats for your mutt.

Krucza 23 Café & Bakery ul. Krucza 23, open Mon-Fri 7:30-20:00; SatSun 10:00-20:00 They didn’t spend much time thinking about the name, that’s a given, but that’s not to say creativity is entirely absent. There’s lots of organic activity on the menu, plus an exciting spread of eco-coffee from far-flung nations. Find all this done in a post-industrial interior that makes use of lots of concrete and natural light.

Limoni Canteri 1952 (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1, tel. 789 176 730, open daily 8:00-22:00. Also at ul. Zwycięzców 49, tel. 518 652 436, open daily 10:0022:00 Appearing as a wooden cabin in an overgrown park (someone, clear it up please), Limoni get noted for Italian gelato that’s too good for words – join the line for tastes like cherry, plum and redcurrant, or go edgy and experimental with flavors such as salmon, tomato or basil.

Między Nami (D4) ul. Bracka 20, tel. 22 828 5417, open Mon-Wed 10:00-23:00; Thu 10:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun14:00-23:00, www. miedzynamicafe.com With 18 years of service under their belt you may think of Między Nami as being an antiquated has-been.

Not so. Haunted by a mix of media types and local characters, this hip white piece of post-commie Warsaw has an enduring, almost timeless appeal.

Ministerstwo Kawy (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 27/35, tel. 503 080 906, open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:0022:00, www.ministerstwokawy.pl

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Sourcing their coffee from Koppi, an internationally acclaimed Swedish roasting house, the ministry takes no short cuts in their pursuit of excellence. Utilizing Ethiopian, Costa Rican and Brazilian arabicas – some exclusive to Poland – barista Wojciech Rzytki has earned a reputation across Poland for his expert hand. Rave reviews are standard and appropriate in this standout cafe.

BEST WAWA 2014 “Coffee” MiTo (D6) ul. Waryńskiego 28, tel. 22 629 0815, open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-23:00, www.mito.art.pl Café, gallery, bookstore.

Of course, we’ve seen that concept before, just not done in this style. Stark white backgrounds are offset by edgy art, lending the place a Tate Modern feel, something accentuated by the earnest fashion students who gather through the day. And there’s the toilet, a futuristic affair with piped music and a mirrored wall.

Niezłe Ziółko Café & Deli (D5) ul. Krucza 17, tel. 664 844 439, open MonFri 8:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-19:00 A shrine to pure and healthy eating, this friendly café doesn’t just brew a great coffee, but bakes its own bread and produces its own yogurt. Sit in the loft to look down on shoppers scurrying to Mokotowska, and on the way out, check out ‘Grandma’s Cupboard’ in the corner: jams, spreads and olive oils are there to buy for home.

Odette ul. Górskiego 6/07, open Tue-Sun 10:0020:00; Mon 13:00-20:00, odette.pl Almost holistic in its ambience, the obstacle-free interior utilizes aspects of space and light, causing attention to naturally fall on the long, sleek counter that occupies one end. It’s here that Piotr Chylarecki’s sweet creations glimmer behind glass like precious little gems. Constructed in the adjoining ‘food lab’, these are desserts fit to grace fine dining moments.

Organic Coffee ul. Piękna 19, open Mon-Fri 7:30-21:00; SatSun 10:00-19:00, organiccoffee.pl Consider the name a misnomer – it’s not just coffee that’s organic here, but practically everything else on offer. By their reckoning, 99% of the goods on offer are natural, and that includes their cakes, cookies, sandwiches and salads.

Immediately relaxing, Organic thrives as a happening meeting spot throughout the day.

Państwo Miasto (B1) ul. Andersa 29, tel. 22 400 9446, open 9:00-24:00, panstwomiasto.pl Is there anything better than sitting in a café, book in hand, while spring sunshine pours through the windows? We go to Państwo to do just that, an echoy, cavernous café with a young, lively crowd that’s keen on scholastic events and political causes. Never does it feel too trendy, or too hipster – it’s a place that’s all about atmosphere and friendship.

Relaks (E9) ul. Puławska 48, open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00; Sat 9:00-19:00; Sun 9:00-18:00 Generally travelling by tram for a cup of Joe sounds excessive, but that’s exactly what you’ll be doing on discovering Relaks. Expertly prepared, right down to the foam art, the baristas here use the finest imported machines and work only with fair trade, ‘specialty’ coffee. If you have time, the drip coffees are more than worth the wait. The interiors supply a retro accent, and are lapped up by a very fashion aware crowd.

Resort ul. Bielańska 1, open Mon-Fri 11:00-2:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-2:00 The main talking point here is a design that utilizes shopping trollies and street signs to serve as chairs and tables, and a pile of second-hand books to form the bar – there’s even a sofa constructed from a bathtub! Themes of recycling are taken to the limit in Resort, yet for all that it never looks junky or cheap. Concerts and comedy nights keep business ticking on quieter days.

Secret Life ul. Słowackiego 15/19, tel. 507 226 552, open Mon-Thu 8:00-21:00; Fri 8:00-22:00; Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 You might already be familiar with Secret Life of Things, a fab design store on the other end of town. Now the same minds have expanded their offer to include this café, a delightful spot that opened in summer. The deckchairs outside may have gone but the hype lingers on: an eclectic design marries a Scandinavian look to an eccentric spirit, while unpasteurized beers, organic teas and a locally sourced menu do the rest.

Stor ul. Tamka 33, open Mon-Fri 7:30-21:30; Sat-Sun 8:30-19:00 Small but perfectly formed, Stor has all the clack and clatter of a busy local café. Regional beers, Chemex and Aeropress coffee and gluten-free snacks and

listings / cafés & wine bars sandwiches provide plenty of reason to pop in and idle about.

Strefa (D7) Oleandrów 3, tel. 784 404 731, open Mon-Sat 9:00-20:00 A pleasing find, Strefa’s casual atmosphere is emphasized by a stack of board games and books in the corner – people come here to dwell and dawdle over hot coffee, craft beer, changing art and a slice of homemade cake. A strong sense of neighborhood prevails, with owners of neighboring businesses always swinging by for a chat and a chew.

WakeCup Café (C1) ul. Franciszkańska 14, tel. 503 113 240, open Mon-Fri 7:00-21:00; Sat-Sun 8:00-21:00, wakecupcafe.pl A superb discovery landed in the no-man’s land that straddles New Town and Muranów. WakeCup don’t believe in taking coffee shortcuts (recommended: raspberry frappe), and have a fiendish obsession with beans from Brazil.

Also notable and noteworthy for their fruity cocktails, pastries and energetic café buzz.

Wars i Sawa (E3) ul. Dobra 14/16, tel. 796 880 822 or 793 567 125. open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-21:00 Creaking floorboards, unfinished plastering and piles of books set the tone to this ‘culture café’.

It’s exactly what you’d expect of Powiśle, and the sort of stop best enjoyed on your own with a pot of tea, a dog-eared novel and your tightest skinny jeans.

wine bars Ale Wino! (E5) ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 628 3830, open Mon-Tue 10:00-22:00; Wed-Sat 10:00-24:00, www.alewino.pl At first you think you’re walking into a car park. And then, it hits you – a beautiful inner-city sanctum with wooden decking, a slanted sail shielding the sun, and bespoke, funky chairs from the esteemed Studio Rygalik. You want to dwell here for a bit longer than planned: and there’s no harm in doing so. One of the Insider’s favorite wine bars, Ale Wino’s food is also top-notch. BEST WAWA 2014 “Wine Bar” Bristol Wine Bar (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmiescie 42/44. open 12:00-23:00 Effortlessly evoking a

real sense of history, the design is a triumph with lots of polished brass and nickel, rich wood finishes and marble floors. You feel like you’ve stepped into a film. But talking points aren’t limited to the interiors alone.

The wine selection was personally overseen

by Robert Mielżyński, possibly the most esteemed wine importer in the country. And the choice is prodigious. Offering a complete cruise through the wines of the Old Continent and the New World, the collection is precisely presented from behind glass cases that line the walls.

Jung & Lecker (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 14, tel. 22 866 6749, open Mon-Thur 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:0023:00, www.prawdziwewina.pl Some think of this as a neighborhood wine bar – they’re clearly privileged, because if everyone had a Jung & Lecker next door it’d be a kind world indeed. While the courtyard garden is a highlight, even in the sub-zero season there’s reason to swing by. Offering an intimate atmosphere and a strong menu, the finishing touch is provided by way of wines sourced directly from 15 wineries in Germany’s famed Pfalz, Rheinhessen, Rheingau and Mosel regions.

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Heritage (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17, tel. 22 857 0912, open Mon-Sat 8:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-20:00 The gentrification of Zbawiciela continues with the appearance of Heritage, a place of tap wines, cobbled floors, and simple,

Coffee

well-thought interiors. With its crates, boxes, cans and tins, Heritage fill a binary role as a deli/wine store for an ascendant new money crowd.

Mielżyński Wine Bar (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 636 8709, open Mon-Fri 9:00-23:00; Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 11:30-17:00, www.mielzynski.pl Robert Mielżyński, a Canadian-born oenologist, awakened Warsaw’s love affair with the grape when he launched Mielżyński in 2004, and it continues to serve as the accepted benchmark to which all wine bars aspire.

Their cause is amply boosted by a fine selection of bites to accompany the superlative wine offer. Find it in a pared down warehouse that emanates casual city cool.

Mielżyński Wine Bar (G9) ul. Czerska 12, www.mielzynski.pl After three years in the pipeline Warsaw’s second outpost of Mielżyński is everything you’d expect: a concise menu that’s never too complex and an exciting wine choice that presents over 500 labels. This vibrant space promises much, not least on account of an inner terrace deck that you know is going to be the talk of this summer.

Portucale (E10) ul. Merliniego 2, tel. 22 898 0925, open 11:00-23:00, www.portucale.pl The rule here is to keep it simple. Stick to the truly amazing seafood and good house wine, both of which promise a terrific Portuguese experience. $$

Solutions

right around the corner... .

Cophi Cafe, ulica Hoza 58|60 www.warsawinsider.pl

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nightlife NEW & NOTABLE

CHMIELARNIA (ul. Marszałkowska 10/16) With the tap war at its height, Chmielarnia hope to raise the stakes with their latest venture. Twelve taps and umpteen bottles comprise the offer, with a range of domestic and international players represented: among them Beavertown, Hoppin’ Frog and Fourpure. Less nerdy than their original, expect the latest Chmielarnia to hoover up bearded custom from nearby pl. Zbawiciela.

bars & pubs 6 Cocktails (E5) ul. Mokotowska 57 Taking its lead from the New York fad for covert bars, the 6 adventure begins in front of a heavy arched gate. Ring the bell, await the buzz of approval and then find yourself summoned into rambling apartment that feels sultry and sensual. Complete with a shadowy smoking lounge and a whirlpool tub in the bathroom, it’s the best secret in Warsaw.

To enjoy the bespoke cocktails yourself, message them on Facebook and await your invite…

Bazar (F1) ul. Jagiellońska 13, tel. 508 321 264, open 12:00-last guest There’s Krusovice, Bernard and Staropramen on tap, and the Czech slant is lent added meat by a series of evenings held in cahoots with the Czech Cultural Centre – it’s during boozy disco nights the party spills into a shadowy cellar with light retro hints. On ground level its raw and industrial with asphalt colors and overhead pipes. You wouldn’t expect it, but the margaritas are smashing.

Beirut (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, open daily 12:00-4:00, www.beirut.com.pl As hip as ever, Beirut has walls dusted with cult album covers, documentary posters and witty graffiti inspired by Banksy. Busy in the day, and absolutely packed at night, order unconventional beers (Noteckie, English ale, Erdinger) from androgynous staff standing behind a sandbag bar decorated with silver hand grenades and a model tank.

OLEANDRÓW 3 (ul. Oleandrów 3) Exploring themes of decadence and fallen splendor, this new opening cements Oleandrów’s status as one of Warsaw’s rising streets. Looking dark and disheveled, this busy nightspot is already earning a name for libertine shenanigans. The blackboard menu touts an unlikely combo of ‘hot dogs and champagne’ – watch others follow suit.

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Berlin-Warszawa Express (D5) Most Poniatowskiego (corner of Kruczkowskiego and al. 3 Maja), open 18:00-1:00; Fri-Sat 18:00-3:00 Set up a flight of stairs, a concrete footbridge at the top links the two bars either side: Berlin and Warszawa. It’s a Matrix moment, the red pill or the blue? Berlin’s the better, with industrial cage lights, and salvaged DDR memorabilia. Surveying the scene, it’s all wobbly tables, sticky surfaces and tight little alcoves fitted into impossible spaces.

A great dive bar, the friendly nature of Berlin gets even friendlier after a few craft brews.

listings / nightlife Bierhalle (A1) Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), ul. Nowy Świat 64, ul. Marszałkowska 55/73, open 11:00-last guest, bierhalle.pl Having tapped their first beer six or seven years back, their microbrewery have morphed into a national phenomenon with outposts across the country. All three Warsaw locations have a cut/paste Bavarian atmosphere, hefty wooden fittings and waitresses dressed like mountain frauleins.

sounding like a 90s small town nightclub, Bubbles is in fact a worthy place of note: a small, warm venue with a slow food menu and a design that incorporates lots of upturned crates and dusty bottles.

Champagne is the main draw here, with many labels that are exclusive to Poland.

Some come with terrifying prices, but on the whole the price points are widely accessible: wine from zł. 10 and a flute of champers from zł. 29.

Bollywood Lounge (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, tel. 22 827 0283, open Sun-Thu 12:00-3:00; Fri 12:00-6:00; Sat 14:00-6:00, www.bollywoodlounge.pl Now on Nowy Świat, the team have used the opportunity to upgrade their offer: gone is that low-rent feel of old, replaced in favor of a more classy look and a slicker crowd.

What has remained constant is the energy.

Ace cocktails (recommended: Jim Ban Chili), tottering talent and a range of sheesha pipes make it a weekend must, though the big news is the completion of their downstairs club: check it out for the bright, banging beats of the Bollywood sound.

Ceska (D4) ul. Chmielna 35, tel. 602 333 444, ceska.pl We had great hopes for Ceska, a place whose primary feature is a system of Czech ‘tanks’ that guarantee your beers quality. But what’s the point in investing in all that if you don’t bother getting the right staff? For a full review, see page 29.

British Bulldog (D4) ul. Aleje Jerozolimskie 42, tel. 22 827 0020, open 11:00-1:00, www.bbpub.pl The most faithful replica of an English pub you’ll find.

And they get a further nod for a brilliant covered terrace that’s great in all weather. Not that you’ll find many British expats in here, they’ve been boycotting the place ever since the dismissal of the original British manager.

Judging by the standard of their beer, you might want to follow their example.

Browarmia (D3) ul. Królewska 1, tel. 22 826 5455, open daily 12:00-last guest, www.browarmia.pl A brewery first and foremost – and an average one at that – full of pipes, valves and mysterious gauges. They still do their own brewing, but conscious of the shift towards artisan beer they’ve now also added around twenty taps to their offer. The choice is a little more pedestrian than the competition, but is nonetheless a pleasant sign of changing times. That it looks, feels and smells like a brewery makes it all the more welcome.

Bubbles (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 512 540 913, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-18:00, bubbles.com.pl Despite

Chmielarnia (B5) ul. Twarda 42 (basement level), tel. 22 890 77 05, open Mon-Thu 11:00-24:00; Fri 11:00-2:00; Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 12:0024:00, www.chmielarnia.waw.pl A subterranean multi-tap found in the depths of the fishing institute. Artisan beers rule the roost here (there’s 15 taps and stacks more beer in the fridge), a point underlined by a glass coffin of mainstream garbage. While the bar gets loud and rackety, sweaty and sticky, that’s balanced out by a rotating beer offer that’s moderately priced plus a friendly, earnest audience that’s all beer geeks and know-it-alls.

Column Bar ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44 (Hotel Bristol), open 10:00-1:00 Just the look of Column Bar sweeps you off your feet; there’s something breathlessly classy about it, like you’ve just entered Gatsby’s ballroom. You want to order a pyramid of champagne and dance on their piano. Behave, and order a cocktail instead. For a taste of the classics, the Column Bar is peerless: no one does it better, whether it’s a restorative Bloody Mary, or a finely crafted Mojito.

Cuda Na Kiju (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, tel. 662 006 106, open 10:00-2:00, www.cudanakiju.pl Warsaw’s multi-tap revolution started here!

This sleek space comes drenched in sunlight that slants through the four glass walls, while the shaded courtyard is frequently utilized for various one off events and food truck

meets. Find 15 taps dispensing regional and craft brews as well as quirky imports from Czech, Belgium and beyond.

Cześć (C3) ul. Grzybowska 2 (through the side passage), tel. 505 695 512, open 16:00-last guest,2 www.czesc.waw.pl It started as a café, but now Cześć is better known as being at the forefront of the new generation of ‘quali-tap’ bars – small little places with six or so new wave beers on tap. The two owners, Piot and Kuba, take their beer seriously, so do expect plenty of new finds as well as traditional favorites from stalwarts like the Artezan and Pinta breweries. The laidback, neighborhood atmosphere is making it increasingly popular with a tight-knit circle of ex-pat drinkers.

Czysta Ojczysta ul. Ząbkowska 27/31, open Mon-Fri 18:004:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-4:00 Set in a one-time vodka factory, this white-on-white haunt features little more than soothing colors, iron posts (watch them), and a whole wall of vodka. Expect the party to spill out into the courtyard, itself utilized for maverick events like bicycle polo.

Dubrovnik (D4) ul. Nowogrodzka 22, tel. 885 835 885, open 11:00-last guest, www.dubrovnik.waw.pl Yes, Dubrovnik is a restaurant. And yes, it’s a restaurant that doesn’t promise much – set with woodsy features and mock-rustic details, it looks cheap and tacky and one to avoid. But guess what, it’s one of the first tankovy pubs in Poland! A Czech innovation, the storing system preserves the beers freshness, and even takes away the usual gassy, belchy taste of Tyskie.

Gorączka Złota (D5) ul. Wilcza 29, tel. 22 625 6855, open MonFri 13:00-24:00; Sat 17:00-24:00, www.goraczka-zlota.com.pl Founded in 1996, Złota’s longevity is to be admired, even if the interiors aren’t. Small, dark and a little pungent, the interiors are rendered out of little more than varnished wood and hundreds of beer coasters. But that’s the clue! The secret of their success is down to the beer. Stocking a range of regional and craft beer (Ale Browar, Pinta, Kormoran, AltenMunster, Olbracht, etc.), this unfashionable bar has an underlying honesty that makes it a success. www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / nightlife Hard Rock Cafe ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, open daily 9:00-24:00, hardrockcafe.pl Full throttle cocktails, lively staff and a classic rock soundtrack: the energy of HRC is hard to find fault with. And on the rare occasion there is a lull in the night, use the opportunity to sniff around memorabilia that includes a black leather number once worn by Madonna.

Hopsters Al. Jana Pawła II 45 (enter from ul.

Nowolipki), open Mon-Thu 15:00-24:00; Fri 15:00-2:00; Sat 13:00-2:00; Sun 13:00-22:00 You get the idea they could have done a bit more with the interior, though the tendency is to overlook this. After all, any bar that goes to the trouble of fitting twenty taps deserves a bit of leeway. And fine things they are, these taps of theirs. There’s usually a couple of foreign guests on the day-to-day menu (Mikeller, Lindemans), but the main draw is undoubtedly from domestic brew houses like AleBrowar and Artezan, not to mention rising stars such as Doctor Brew and Podgórz.

Irish Pub (C2) ul. Miodowa 3, tel. 22 826 2533, open daily 11:00-last guest, www.irishpubmiodowa.pl Affecting a look that only an Irish pub can escape with – strange smells and chipped wood – this boozer is perhaps more noted for its live music and camaraderie than for anything else. There’s events practically every night, ranging from local rock acts

to cool blues. If you failed the X Factor audition then do the next best thing and visit for karaoke night.

Jedna Trzecia ul. Wilcza 52, tel 605 589 588, open Mon-Thu 16:00-24:00; Fri 16:00-2:00; Sat-Sun 14:00-24:00 Unbeknown to some publicans, craft beer is not a numbers game – it’s not about how many taps you have, it’s about what comes out of them.

This lot understood that from the start.

Quality control is stringent, yet aside from pouring the perfect pint (every time), Jedna Trzecia have a choice that reflects the latest developments on the global craft scene: rare find international brews are a specialty and presented in an industrial, concrete space softened by it’s mustard lighting and laidback audience.

BEST WAWA 2014 “Craft Beer Bar” Kameralna (E4) ul. Foksal 11, tel. 887 878 731, open 12:00-24:00 With a militia truck outside, and interiors that feature cutlery by Społem and 70s newspapers on the walls, you’d be right to think we’ve got another venue that celebrates the past. Looking vast and comfortingly cluttered, Kameralna is both a restaurant and a nightspot – brewing their own beer, the house lagers are fine.

Kita Koguta (E5) ul. Krucza 6/14, tel. 512 307 284, open Mon-Thu 8:00-24:00; Fri 8:00-2:00; Sat

16:00-2:00 Free from the pompous prattery of Bar Max down the road, there are times in Kita Koguta where sitting at bar level is like watching Dexter’s Laboratory: the staff aren’t afraid to get imaginative, and that includes serving cocktails in smoking coconut husks.

Not all the experiments go as planned, but that’s part of the thrill – for a failsafe, order the Viterbo Breakfast: it looks like something that came out of a drainpipe, but it’s delicious!

Kraken Rum Bar (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, tel. 791 334 606, open daily 12:00-4:00 Named after one of the ocean’s most feared mythical creatures (the scary squid from Pirates of the Caribbean), the wood-clad Kraken features a wall of cymbals, heavy furniture and some interesting photography. While there’s some decent bottles of rum, there’s perhaps not enough to justify calling it a rum bar. The house beer rocks though.

Kufle i Kapsle (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 25, tel. 22 127 7218, open Mon-Thu 14:00-2:00; Fri 14:00-4:00; Sat 12:00-4:00; Sun 12:00-2:00, www. kufleikapsle.pl Ten tap and two pump beers offer a magnificent spread of daily changing beers, and the good news continues with the choice in the fridge: there’s 120 beers down there, so gamble on a rather jolly night. Interiors are balanced with the pre-war heritage of the building, and are already thick with noise, clamor and the welcome scent of beer and spillage.

Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri 11:0002:00; Sat 12:00-02:00, Sun 12:00-23:00, www.legendsbar.pl Celebrating their fourth anniversary this September just gone, Legends is slowly edging its way to legendary status amongst the ex-pats and Anglophiles.

It’s all helped by touches like a segregated smoking room, a proper darts board, Sky Sports and a traditional menu that’s as authentically English as the Downing Street cat. Most of all though, the success is down to the sense of community fostered over long quiz nights, shouty karaoke competitions and other such events. Presiding over it all is Graham, a seasoned expat and Everton nut.

Małe Piwo (D7) ul. Oleandrów 4. tel. 510 905 592, open Mon-Thu 16:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 16:00-24:00;

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BROUGHT TO YOU BY HARD ROCK CAFE

Tell us about the memorabilia…

We’ve got a section of Polish memorabilia to represent the local music scene as well as the biggest guitar wall out of every Hard Rock in the world! In terms of wow factor, people love the Iron Maiden drum kit, but there are also things like Lennon’s jacket, Madonna’s corset and Freddie Mercury’s red trousers.

Where do we get it from? Everything is one-of-a-kind and comes from the artists themselves! Our Global Headquarters in Orlando, Florida has a massive warehouse full of memorabilia, with stock rotating in and out throughout the years.

It’s A Hard Rock Life

Piotr Komór, general manager of the Warsaw branch of the Hard Rock Café, gives the lowdown on the latest news from the Hard Rock front...

What is it about Hard Rock that keeps people coming…

People think of Hard Rock Cafe and associate it with food and drink.

But it’s the overall atmosphere that provides guests with the ultimate dining experience. Guests look forward to visiting Hard Rock Cafe for its rock n’roll flair, but each location embraces the local culture of the city, as well. Hard Rock’s Rock Shop retail store attracts visitors and collectors from around the world, and there’s also that sense of security you get with going to a global name like Hard Rock. But we are constantly thinking about our locals. They enjoy our breakfast and lunch specials and our live music program every Wednesday night.

How important are the staff…

Honestly, our staff is the core of our restaurant and one of our biggest assets to a successful guest experience. They behave differently, there’s spontaneity to them, they know they’re allowed to have fun, and I think that always passes down the line to the customer. I know most staff in Warsaw’s restaurants speak English, but here they don’t just speak it, they enjoy using it: they want to be part of your evening, to tell you about Warsaw’s hidden bars or chat about where you’re from. And yes, diners feel good when they have a connection to their server, or when the manager comes over to speak to them.

There’s been a few changes in the kitchen…

People have a perception of our food, that it’s pre-made, etc. That’s completely wrong – everything we prepare is hand-made, in-house with the freshest ingredients! Even our onion rings – which are hugely time consuming – are made from scratch.

We’ve revamped our presentation, and as part of company policy have moved towards global trends with the introduction of more gluten free dishes and lighter food for the more health-conscious guest. It seems everyone is on a diet nowadays, but even so, we realize that there are times when you want to indulge too!

Our Oreo cheesecake is super popular: it’s not calories I say, its pleasure!

Where does head office figure in all of this?

We have guidelines we follow: for instance, our LegendaryTM Burgers are offered around the world. What you order in London is the same as what you’ll get in Barcelona or Warsaw. As a company strategy, we’re also focusing more on ‘local’ food trends and ingredients. Guests want to experience local products, so soon we’ll be matching burgers with Polish craft beers, that sort of thing.

Each Hard Rock Cafe also offers a Local Legendary Burger which uses local ingredients and is exclusive to that café’s location.

Hard Rock Cafe ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, open daily 9:00-24:00, hardrockcafe.pl www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / nightlife Sun 16:00-23:00 Hands up who loves good beer? Thought so. Małe Piwo have been a sensation since opening, preempting the craft beer trend and in the process attracting huge crowds of every sub-section of the hipster community. The choice of bottles is immense, and enjoyed in an edgy, dive bar background that’s snugger than a mouse’s waistcoat.

Miłość Kredytowa 9 ul. Kredytowa 9, open 9:00-6:00 Firstly, there’s the bar. It’s stunning: concrete slabs, a vertical wall of greenery and a DJ platform that doubles as a kitchen on weekends.

The upstairs mezzanine is the best spot for voyeurs, and it’s here that a series of rooms unravel revealing a bookstore, deli and a lumbersexual barber shop. It is ultimately the bar that is the center force though, and it’s here you’ll find one-of-a-kind bottled cocktails that use natural ingredients, not to mention the full offer from Perła.

Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’ (D4) Enter from ul. Nowy Świat 26 Approximately twenty bars occupy a series of low-budget prefabricated cabins, presenting possibly the highest density of bars in the capital: in summer, it feels like one big street party.

Adding to the gentle sense of confusion comes the realization that so many bars look the same – accessed through clattery, barred doors, visitors walk into what can only be described as murk. Klaps, with its dildo beer taps and phallic walls, is probably the most well-known of the lot.

Panorama Bar and Lounge (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 630 6306, open Mon-Sun 18:00-2:00, www.panoramabar.pl An elegant bar that would easily pass for the VIP room of a wellto-do club. A floor 40 location makes it great for a date: the sunset views are dazzling.

Paparazzi (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 22 828 4219, open daily 18:00-last guest, www.paparazzi.com. pl Engage in suicidal cocktail consumption alongside high rollers and genetic miracles.

Slick and smooth, Poland’s original cocktail chain continues to set the bar high with formidable cocktails (Pimm’s included!) and a smoking section that encompasses everything but the front door.

Paradox (B1) ul. Anielewicza 2, tel. 691 472 969, open

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Sun-Thu 10:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-2:00; Sun 10:00-23:00, www.paradox-cafe.pl Billing themselves as a ‘sci-fi / gamers / role play asylum’ this is a cradle of geeks, nerds and people who collect serial killer memorabilia. Decorated with plastic black crows, a map of Mordor and figurines of goblins, watch as oddly attired suspects engross themselves in ‘for hire’ games with names like Hobbit and Bewoulf.

Patera (C4) ul. Świętokrzyska 36, tel. 535 333 123, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00; Sun 11:00-23:00, www.patera.com.pl Patera fill a binary role: first as an Asian eatery, and second as a cocktail bar. And my, what cocktails. Offering several classics, and a few modern creations, the Ginger Peach Collins became our cocktail of choice during summer 2014. The reopening of Świętokrzyska should lead a few more people through the door – they’ll like what they see.

Pies Czy Suka (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8A, tel. 22 881 83 73, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00; Sun 16:00-23:00, www.piesczysuka.com Monochrome gun metal grey colors are offset by a fashionable crowd attired in red shoes, pink trousers and blue headphones.

This clean, concrete space is speckled with plaster moldings of reindeer heads, and excels on the cocktail front. Order from an iPad menu, before settling back for cocktails made using mad scientist, molecular techniques that involve foam, vapor, beakers and other things you’d usually find in Professor Yaffle’s lab.

Piw Paw (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34 (enter from ul.

Parkingowa), tel. 534 734 500, open 24 hrs Grandiosely declaring themselves to be Warsaw’s first ‘hyper tap’ bar, Piw Paw’s armory includes 57 tap beers, about ten tables and two toilets – do you see the problem? Designed more for carry-out custom, Piw Paw nonetheless packs out with punters often spilling outside creating an almost street party vibe.

Piw Paw na Foksal (E4) ul. Foksal 16, tel. 534 734 945, open 16:00-last guest, piwpaw.pl If the original Piw Paw was marketed as a ‘hyper tap’ then what’s their sister on Foksal? There’s 97 taps (!!) though one gets the sense its more

about numbers than quality – we’ve seen Beck’s, for Pete’s sake. Getting service can be a nightmare, and while there’s a smoking room, it’s got the warmth and ambience of a night down the police station.

Plac Barcelona (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 18, tel. 501 988 768, open Sun-Thu 9:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 9:00-1:00 Those who think this area’s star has waned need look no further than Plac Barcelona, a pristine bar with a star studded clientele. The interiors feature stark white colors and an interesting multi-level seating arrangement.

Most, however, prefer to give themselves maximum exposure and do both their sipping and sitting outdoors.

Plan B (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 508 316 976, open Mon-Sun 11:00-last guest. www.planb.pl Plan B is the very essence of dive Warsaw. Weekends pass by in a raucous blur, with the party spilling out under the colonnades outside – it helps to look like a DJ, but in truth everyone is welcome. The hangover from this shabby, grubby bar is traumatic.

Polonez (D5) ul. Poznańska 24, tel. 604 942 169, open Sun-Wed 10:00-1:00; Thu 10:00-2:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-3:00 Sparse milk bar chic is set against plenty of oddities (black and white Cybulski films, a set of antlers, hordes of junk), but the cool aesthetics only tell a part of the story. This is a celebration of Poland, both old and new, with drinks that include obscure nalewki, craft local beers, bio drinks and regional tipples. The masterstroke comes in making this all feel international, contemporary and creative.

Same Krafty (D1) ul. Nowomiejska 10, tel. 22 831 98 75, open 15:00-last guest Set across two small, rugged rooms, Same Krafty gets populated by an organic combination of tourists, couples and beer enthusiasts. There’s ten taps from which to choose, and a fridge with several interesting international beers. The Old Town doesn’t have much to shout about when it comes to nightlife, so Same Krafty’s debut is more than welcome.

Secado (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 66, tel. 608 707 799, open Mon-Fri 10:00-23:00; Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-23:00 Most part restaurant, bit

listings / nightlife part bar, there’s a flexibility here that has turned it into one of those places where people meet, eat and generally hangout – not always in that order. And as for the drinks, they’re really very good. Using their own mixes, Secado present a succinct list of must-try cocktails. Try their best seller: the Bloody Hell. Using Chopin vodka infused with horse radish, pirri pirri and basil, this pimped out version of the Bloody Mary incorporates chili syrup and wasabi in a high octane drink that kicks like a mule.

Słoik (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 600 396 688, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri 11:00-24:00; Sat 12:0024:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, restauracjasloik. pl Słoik looks bright, loud and vibrant, so it’s no surprise to learn their cocktail maestros specialize in maverick creations. A source of particular pride are drinks that celebrate Poland: we’re talking about vodkas infused with juniper and vanilla, then mixed with marmalades and other exotica like pickled cucumber juice. The tastes are unique and leave you bandy-legged and shouting for more.

Spiskowcy Rozkoszy (D5) ul. Żurawia 47/49, tel. 796 671 950, open Mon-Thu 16:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 16:00-1:00; Sun 16:00-23:00, www.spiskowcy.pl The ground floor is an intimate space with lots of yet-to-be-famous beers and junky, antique furniture that reminds of the Boho hangouts in Kraków. But what was a packed, little bar is now a packed, big bar with the opening of the basement: find a labyrinth of rooms and psychedelic toilets with pulsating lights – you soon wonder who spiked your drink. And oh, the drinks. Expect IPA and APA beers served from the six taps.

Vyceska ul. Polinezyjska 10, open 13:00-23:00 As welcome as the craft revolution has been, there are times you just want a good honest pint: so how about this, a multi-tap whose focus zooms on all things Czech. There’s eight taps and a wealth of bottles to traipse through as well as a small menu of food designed to sustain protracted drinking sessions. All this is in an interior that’s dark and slick but not short of character – all of a sudden moving out to Ursynów seems a rather smart idea.

Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 621 8622,

open Mon-Sun 12:00-last guest, www.warsawtortillafactory.pl Warsaw’s premier sports pub: and it’s not just the extent of their sporting offer that elevates WTF, but the atmosphere. Whether it’s international rugby, or Bristol City on a Tuesday night, the tension, camaraderie and horseplay are unmatched. On the occasions when there is no sport, swing by for live bands and a lively atmosphere fueled by a heady mix of ex-pats, international students, and locals bewildered by it all. The recent addition of boutique beverages such as Brew Dog and Thistly Cross has gone down a treat.

Warszawa Powiśle (E4) ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B, tel. 22 474 40 84, open Mon-Fri 11:00-last guest; Sat-Sun 9:00-last guest, www.warszawapowisle.pl The prime months for this former ticket-booth are in summer when the deck chairs outside provide ample opportunity for the city’s young to gather in an almost carnival-like atmosphere. Seen as the hipster Center of Power, a collective bout of outrage saved them from council threatened closure last year.

You & Me ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 379 0379, open Mon-Thu 8:00-24:00; Fri 8:00-2:00; Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 12:00-24:00, youandmebar.pl The dreaded restobar concept doesn’t always work, but You & Me manage to get both the food AND the drink right. And in their case, that mean innovative cocktails enjoyed by an after-work crowd of posey city slickers. The terrace is where the action is at.

Element (D4) ul. Jasna 1, tel. 22 667 435 363 or 22 692 42 42, open Thu-Sat 22:00-7:00, www. elementclub.pl With door control negotiated, clubbers slip downstairs into a blue-lit labyrinth heaving with slick, polished finishes and a thumping sound system. Marketed at the higher end of the clubbing world, there’s no shortage of temptresses gyrating around in a dense cloud of perfume.

Enklawa (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 22 827 3151, open Wed-Sat 22:00-4:00, www.enklawa.com

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clubs Capitol Theatre and Club (C3) ul. Marszałkowska 115, tel. 22 826 8570, www.clubcapitol.pl An extravagant dance space with sparkly chandeliers, regal staircases and a modern Moscow, over-the-top style. Mark the Hed Kandi events in your diary for a night to remember.

De Lite (E5) ul. Marii Konopnickiej 6, tel. 792 014 166, www.deliteclub.pl This place definitely figures highly in the ‘bubbles and beauties’ stakes. Scantily clad dates bop along sipping on martinis, flirting and dancing, while exposed brick and pipes, raw concrete and an interesting mirror setup in the bathrooms add to the futuristic, spaceship interior.

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listings / nightlife Forget internet dating, Enklawa is the best pick-up joint around – a classic kitschy, glitzy disco, it draws in huge crowds with a simple lineup of pop and dance hits. Still regarded as the best Wednesday night in Warsaw, it’s the place for singletons looking for a one night confidence boost.

enjoying a mixed bag of events that range from didgeridoo performances to full-on techno that makes fillings pop out. Full review next month.

Foksal XVIII (E4) ul. Foksal 18, open Fri-Sat 10:00-4:00 Billed as one of the top ‘rich and pretty’ clubs in the capital, Foksal features a competitive ‘look at me’ spirit and flash interiors that are all chandeliers and champagne. Cardboard animal shapes hanging from the bar inject much needed humor to this cream of the crop club. Don’t even think of trying to gain entry without first tipping a bottle of aftershave down your pants.

Playhouse (B3) Al. Solidarności 82A, tel. 794 007 000, open 21:00-4:00, www.playhouse.pl Not here gorilla gangsters on the door or pushy girls doing the rounds (“buy me drinky drinky”).

Instead, Playhouse models itself on the top class mega clubs such as Spearmint Rhino, and the result is a subterranean space removed from the sleaze and murk usually associated with the industry. But you want to know what the girls are like, yeah? Let the fact askmen.com voted it their favorite strip in the world speak for itself.

Luztro (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, open Wed-Thu 22:00-10:00; Fri-Sat 24:00-14:00, www. luztro.pl Feeling naughty? Luztro enjoys a reputation for libertine behavior and illicit pharmaceuticals. Dark, grim and grotty, this after party stalwart gets going at about 4 a.m. on weekends, when troglodyte club creatures emerge zombie-like to dance way past sunrise. Jaw grinding, rib rattling electro has never felt better.

Organza ul. Mazowiecka 12, open Wed-Sat 19:004:00, www.kluborganza.pl The layout is basic: set over two floors lit in Organza’s signature orange/black colors, there’s not much to comment in terms of design – it’s shiny and new and all things Warsaw. The crowd though likes to party and lacks the airs and arrogance of neighboring establishments.

Platinium (D3) ul. Fredry 6, tel. 694 413 439, open Thu-Sat 21:00-6:00. www.platiniumclub.pl The place if you’re rich or beautiful – but preferably both. Large and spectacular you’ll need to be dressed to the nines to reap the rewards that lie inside: featuring the most eye candy per sq/m in Europe, you might not find Mr/Mrs Right, but you will find Mr/Mrs Right for Now. Sen Pszczoły ul. Gorochowska 301/305, tel. 530 360 060, senpszczoly.pl Famous, infamous or a bit of both? Moving from their temporary digs in the Koneser Factory, the new-look Sen Pszczoły is every bit as murky as the previous: amid a heavy industrial background, find partygoers

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gentleman’s clubs

live music Basen (E5) ul. Konopnickiej 6, tel. 696 058 944, open Fri-Sat 21:00-6:00, www.artbasen.pl Get this, you’ll be doing your dance steps in what was formerly Warsaw’s first public swimming pool. Featuring a line-up of live bands and some of the top electronic acts around, this is definitely one to add to the watch list.

Bistro na Pięknej (D6) ul. Piękna 20, tel. 22 627 4151, open Mon-Fri 11:00-24:00; Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-23:00, www.jazzone.pl A slick looking jazz spot that’s seen the benefit of a recent overhaul. Valued additions include a less austere style and what at times might feel like Warsaw’s only fireplace. Popular with a smart city crowd, keep an eye out for their live acts.

Chwila (B3) ul. Ogrodowa 31/35, tel. 22 401 1754, open 12:00-last guest; Sun 15:00-last guest Entered under a red, cabaret-style awning, Chwila is a reject factory space turned good.

Furry cushions, patchwork quilts and student art vie for attention alongside iron girders and industrial leftovers inside what is becoming known as one of the top alternative music venues this side of the river. The toilet alone, papered with trillions of cool posters and magazine covers, is a reason to linger.

Pardon To Tu (C4) Pl. Grzybowski 12/16, tel. 513 191 641,

open 10:00-4:00, www.pardontotu.pl Decorated in voluptuous brothel colors, the design involves mismatched seats, tilted lampshades and a relaxed arthouse look popular with creatives and other fringe dwellers. The live talent ranges from moody quartets to jazzy chanteuses, while a perfect marriage of late hours and great bottled beers helps along the enthusiastic crowd of latter day beatniks.

shot bars Afera na Szpitalnej ul. Szpitalna 3, open 11:00-2:00; Fri 11:00-6:00; Sat 15:00-6:00; Sun 15:00-2:00 In terms of style Afera seems more sanitized than Warsaw’s other shot bars. But is it more sane? No chance! When the clubs have closed top-up your alcohol levels by necking little shots of horror from one of the most complete vodka menus in town.

Bar Warszawa ul. Miodowa 2, open 14:00-4:00, barwarszawa.pl Creak upstairs to find a warm space filled out with sofas and nostalgic decorations such as vintage radios and black and white photos of bare breasted prostitutes. Run as a side project by a TV producer, flexible opening hours mean it doesn’t always close at the stated 4 a.m.

Meta ul. Mazowiecka 11 / Foksal 21 / Parkingowa 5 Chains of old bog paper, Karol Gott album covers and other Communist keepsakes litter this shot bar. But for a real blast to the past, visit their Parkingowa venue for a full-on, Polski-style retro disco. It’s hilarious.

Pijalnia ul. Nowy Świat 19, open 24hrs Havoc reigns in Pijalnia, and watching all the tears and tiffs on a Friday night is something of a spectator sport. Pickles and vodka are the essential order, while reading commie-era sports reports that are plastered to the wall.

Przekąski u Romana ul. Ludna 2, tel. 660 525 777, open 24hrs Bow-tied and debonair, proprietor Roman Modzelewski first came to attention as the bar steward of the defunct shot bar once found in the Hotel Europejski. Now he’s back, this time heading his own operation in hip Powiśle – it’s on its way to becoming a legend.

shopping accessories Bath & Body Works ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00, ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 The famed American brand signals its arrival to Europe with the launch of their Warsaw branch. Now fans of the brand can experience first-hand luxurious fragrant body care, hand and home collections.

Customers can discover sophisticated fragrances, test shower gels and soaps at the sink area, and try everything from body lotions to home fragrances.

BeautyLab Polska ul. Belwederska 20/22, beautylabpolska.pl Rated as one of the biggest names in global cosmetics, the range of treatments run from anti-ageing to daily body care and essential skin care.

4 TO WATCH: Sneaker Pimps 7STORE (ul. Chmielna 7, 7store.pl) Aiming to present the latest sneaker trends 7Store pride themselves on the latest designs from the likes of New Balance, Converse, Le Coq Sportif, Vans, Nike and Adidas. There’s many more besides, with the choice not just limited to the big boys alone.

OLD SILOS (ul. Hoża 35, oldsilos.pl) Revive the glory years of the 80s British ‘football casual’ in Old Silos, a sneaker store specializing in retro classics and Adidas Originals. Other brands present include Nike Sportswear and Puma Archive.

WARSAW SNEAKER STORE (ul. Chmielna 20, chmielna20.pl) Kudos both to the shop’s tagline (Run Forrest, Run), and a collection whose primary draw is Warsaw’s largest collection of Nike Sportswear: this includes Historical Nike Cortez, Nike Air Force 1, Nike Air Max, not to mention a host limited editions such as their seriously kick-ass red Nike LeBron’s.

WORLD BOX (ul. Nowy Świat 49, worldbox.pl) Words tend to be superfluous. Instead, meet one of World Box’s many devotees and they’ll just reel off a list: Adidas Originals, Reebok Classic Leather, Asics Onutsuka Tiger, New Balance ‘Flying The Flag’, and of course just about anything ever produced by Nike. You get the drift…

Chiara (Saska Kępa) Promenada Shopping Centre, ul. Ostrobramska 75C, tel. 22 611 3814, open Mon-Fri 10:00-21:00; Sat Sun 10:00-20:00. www.chiara-online.pl You’d never expect it but this chic little shop stocks the best shoes and bags in the city – stock up on the latest collections from Michael Kors, Celine, Stuart Weitzman, Ralph Lauren and Mulberry.

Glamourous Pochette tel. (+48) 798 089 959, Glamorous-Pochette. com Leave an unforgettable impression with stylish pocket squares made from the finest, hand selected Moroccan raw silk. So they say: ‘each one tells a story, or carries strong ties to a particular place or moment – when you wear one of our pocket squares, you take these stories and transform them into your own’.

Glamstore ul. Narbutta 83 (entry from ul. Łowicka), tel.

794 689 090, open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-15:00 Widely hailed by Poland’s fashion glossies, this store sells modern furnishings with all the trimmings and colours you could ask for. They also stock kitchen and bathroom accessories, as well as touting their own jewelery line. www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / shopping HOS&me ul. Mokotowska 63, tel. 22 625 0881, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 12:00-15:00, www.mokotowska63.com Luxury jewelry and the best in the biz. In stock: high end treasures from Nialaya, Lene Bjerre Design, Ti Sento, Christensen and Dryberg/Kern.

Officine 904 ul. Wilcza 3, officine904.pl Beautiful bags handmade in Florence from Italian calf leather. From clutch bags to market bags, this discreet walk-in offers uncompromising quality and craftsmanship characterized by its ‘purity of form’ and ‘utilitarian simplicity’.

Impossible Project ul. Mysia 3, tel. 884 867 518, open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-18:00. The Polaroid comes back to life in Impossible Project, a place with refurbished original cameras as well as new film formula.

Pingle Optyk ul. Hoża 40, tel. 798 025 505, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-14:00 A collection of hand-selected eyewear that is serious in terms of quality control, but entirely whimsical when it comes to design. Yes, you’ve got your ubiquitous Ray Ban classics, but you’ve also got the electric blue version. You’ve got your Chanel and YSL classics, then there are the leather-trimmed frames from Paul Smith and many more funky models straight from Paris.

Mo61 ul. Mokotowska 61, tel. 601 652 593, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, mo61.pl Billed as a ‘perfume laboratory’, Mo61 is the only place in Poland that allows customers to create their own scents. Under the expert guidance of staff trained by Zygmunt Marczewski (“the best nose in Poland”!), visitors compose their own perfumes inside a beautifully renovated pre-war space.

Pracownia Szczotek ul. Poznańska 26, khaja.pl Opened in 1952, this bespoke brush store has been passed down from grandfather to father

and then onto son. On offer: everything from paintbrushes to moustache combs to hairbrushes. And the owner is a character as well: “I don’t have time for Facebook,” he says, “it would get in the way of my tango lessons!”

Victoria’s Secret Beauty & Accessories ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 665 625 618, open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00, ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), tel.

22 541 4141, Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 An assortment of Victoria’s Secret Beauty products including fun and flirty fragrances, such as Bombshell, as well as the scented VS Fantasies body care range.

For that glam girl-on-the go, expect to find a wide range of Victoria’s Secret branded bags, luggage, passport covers and small leather goods to cosmetic bags, bangles and key fobs.

w w w. pt a s i a 6. p l

Warsaw Ptasia 6 St.

foto M. Nasternak

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listings / shopping fashion American Eagle Outfitters Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (C. H. Arkadia), tel. 665 625 639, ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), tel. 605645289, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 American Eagle brings you high-quality, on-trend clothing and accessories inspired by a denim heritage that truly expresses individual style.

Ania Kuczyńska ul. Mokotowska 61, tel. 22 622 02 76, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00 Ania Kuczyńska is becoming well known for her highly fashionable, minimalist clothing designs. The store also carries adorable baby clothes and various accessories.

Bombay Shirts ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 606 270 400, bombayshirts.com Custom-made shirts for both men and women created from a choice of over 150 fabrics: among them the finest Egyptian cotton, two-ply cottons and pure linens. They promise shirts that are ‘modern and fast-paced but buttressed with old world charm’.

Chrum ul. Dobra 53, tel. 22 415 5224, chrum. com Amid a quirky design that mimics a butcher’s store, find a cult collection of tees and hoodies emblazoned with playful slogans and punchy graphics. Showcasing the fun side of Polski design, Chrum caters to customers who enjoy their fashion with a pinch of humor.

Hard Rock Cafe ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, open daily 9:00-24:00, hardrockcafe.pl No wardrobe is complete without the iconic Hard Rock t-shirt! Find this classic piece of seventies design here, along with other extras for the all American look.

Fay, Gianvito Rossi, Jimmy Choo, Kenzo, Moncler, Ralph Lauren, Simonetta Ravizza, Tod’s, Tom Ford, Tory Burch, Valentino and Yves Salomon. And also in the luxury baby corner: baby Dior, Dolce&Gabbana Kids, Kenzo Kids, Moncler Kids, Ralph Lauren Kids and Tod’s Kids.

Joanna Klimas ul. Nowolipki 2, tel. 22 831 0292, open Mon-Fri 10:00-18:00, ul. Puławska 2 (CH Plac Unii), open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00, www.joannaklimas.com One of Poland’s top fashion designers runs this boutique/showroom. Choose from the latest collections or have a dress custom made for a particular occasion.

Ptasia 6 ul. Ptasia 6, tel. 733 874 609, ptasia6.pl A unique ladies concept store showcasing the works of both emerging and established independent Polish fashion labels such as Eva Grygo, Confashion, Horror! Horror!, Kasia Miciak and Polanka.

Moliera 2 Boutique ul. Moliera 2, tel, 22 827 7099, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, Sat 11:00-16:00, www.moliera2.com Brands include: Balmain, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Gianvito Rossi, Herve Leger, Jimmy Choo, Kenzo, Moncler Gamme Rouge, Ralph Lauren, Simonetta Ravizza, Tory Burch, Valentino, Victoria Beckham and Yves Salomon.

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, tel. 22 622 14 16, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-17:00, www.plactrzechkrzyzy.com Brands include:

Reykjavik District ul. Burakowska 15, tel. 501 399 222, open Tue-Fri 13:00-19:00; Sat-Sun 13:00-17:00, www.reykjavikdistrict.com Chic, well-cut menswear for all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal.

Safripsti ul. Oleandrów 3 Formerly a make-up artist in London and Paris, owner Magdalena returned to Poland to open a vintage boutique. Buying wholesale – meaning prices are kept in check – her fashion store presents finds like authentic cheerleader outfits and Hawaiian shirts for summer, not to mention a great selection of denim, parkers and so forth. And how about a classic Burberry mac for zł. 200?

Snobissimo ul. Mokotowska 28, tel. 22 629 8759, open

Designer Secret ul. Mokotowska 39 (courtyard), tel. 506 051 048 or 511 649 493, open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-17:00; Sun 11:00-15:00, www.designersecret.pl High end designer clothing brands at discount prices. The racks brim with ladies and mens apparel from the previous years’ collections, with price tags that read from one third to 50% off the original price.

EM Cashmere Boutique ul. Szczygla 8, tel. 22 826 1956, emcashmere.pl Available brands include Allude Cashmere, Annette Görtz, Studiorundholz and Sarah Pacini with 30-40% discounts on last year’s collections, and up to 70% on those of previous years. A truly beautiful find with the clothes offer supplemented with shoes and accessories.

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listings / shopping Mon & Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00 Top labels from design houses like Jimmy Choo, Sonia Rykiel, Les Copains, Sergio Rossi etc., etc. With shoes and accessories all provided for, it’s a one-stop shop to re-boot your wardrobe.

Viola Śpiechowicz ul. Kolejowa 55 (Łomianki), tel. 518 920 124, open Mon-Fri 9:00-15:00, vsstore.eu/ violaspiechowicz.com Viola Spiechowicz is an inspiring, unpretentious and highly creative fashion designer who has cultivated her own original and inimitable style since her 1992 debut. Her designs are the result of a long search for the perfect form, texture and color scheme, lending each project its own unique style: be it fashion, upholstery fabrics or accessory design.

Wake Up The Bear ul. Mokotowska 41, wakeupthebear.com Stylish ‘travel practical’ clothes as designed by the acclaimed Viola Spiechowicz. Featuring natural fabrics and multipurpose add-ons, this is the ultimate in comfort clothes.

home Numero Uno ul. Grzybowska 4, tel. 22 620 0049, www. numerouno.pl Beautiful home design store with brands include Ipe Cavalli, Zanette, Doimo and Calia Italia. The sofas are out of this world. Prices start at mid-range and stretch to steep, so watch out for their sales which can reach up to 70% off.

Pies Czy Suka ul. Szpitalna 8A, tel. 22 881 8373, piesczysuka.com Husband and wife team Beata Konarska and Paweł Konarski push the boundaries of creativity in a home design store that’s heavy with statement pieces: life sized moldings of animals, illuminated Jesus statues, edgy art, etc.

Product Placement ul. Leszczyńska 12, polishdesignnow.com Anyone doubting Poland’s growing reputation in the world of home design hasn’t been to Product Placement. Ceramics, furniture, textiles, kitchenware, bags and gadgets – everything is worth a look.

Red Onion ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 817 1339, open Mon-Sat 9:00-20:00; Sun 9:00-18:00, www.

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redonion.pl Their new internet shopping site makes it even easier to indulge, whatever your budget.

Reset Point ul. Puławska 48 sklep.resetpoint.pl A treasure trove of renovated antique furniture, vinyl clocks, 70s style handle-less PRL mugs and modern art prints of legendary landmarks such as Dworzec Centralny and the Palace of Culture. Plenty of pieces and curios from upcoming and established domestic design studios.

Secret Life (of Things) ul. Dąbrowskiego 15A, tel. 600 486 582 or 509 852 617, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00, www.secretlife.pl An ‘eco lifestyle concept store’ full of bio-friendly scents, cosmetics, hand-made trinkets and housewares, rustic furnishings and detox teas. And it’s the multi-colored tins that greet you at the door, all of them crying out ‘drink me’. Check the prestigious porcelain

by Kristoff, stock up on Madara cosmetics, or snap up a pair of handmade shoes.

Spod Lady ul. Chmielna 26, spodlady.com Step in and breathe in the atmosphere of communist Poland. This shop’s a beauty, and brims with collectibles that have seen classic PRL keepsakes given a contemporary update.

Books, films, bags, toys and general items for the home inside this cult courtyard store.

Take a Nap ul. Mysia 3 This two floor shop is full of bedtime accessories like comfy sheets, pillows, comforters and blankets, plus fun bits of furniture that merge the modern with a country living twist. There’s a broader selection of bed frames, couches and mattresses.

Velt ul. Próżna 12, www.velt.pl Beautiful familyrun glassware store whose pieces include the Leda lamp, awarded an honorable mention in the prestigious 2012 Red Dot Awards.

malls & department stores Arkadia Al. Jana Pawła II 82, tel. 22 323 6767, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00, www.arkadia.com.pl

Blind Concept Store ul. Mokotowska 63/100, tel. 501 770 661 From established international names to upcoming local designers, consider Blind your one-stop fashion solution. Find it all from eclectic jewelry from Anka Krsytyniak and Chocokate, eyewear from Cheap Monday and Woodyglasses, killer heels from United Nude and Melissa & Vivienne Westwood, etc Galeria Mokotów ul. Wołoska 12, tel. 22 541 4141, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00, www.galeriamokotow.com.pl Klif House of Fashion ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4500, open Mon-Sat 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. www.klif.pl Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has everything from the excellent Alma supermarket to top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko.

Plac Unii ul. Puławska 2, tel. 22 204 0499, open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00, www.placunii.pl Warsaw’s latest mall counts Armani Jeans, Liu-Jo and Pandora amongst its upmarket tenants.

Mysia 3 ul. Mysia 3, tel. 603 767 574, open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00; Sun 12:00-18:00, www. mysia3.pl Hip department store that’s seen a few tenants come and go, yet has remained on the cutting edge in spite of it all. Set in Poland’s former censorship office, the line-up includes Scandinavian fashion in Cos, shoes from My Paris, unconventional fashion from Nenukko and more.

Vitkac Wolf Bracka Vitkac, ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7313, open Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00; Sun 11:00-18:00, www.likusconceptstore.pl Vitkac was made for with a credit card blitz in mind. Poland’s first luxury department store gathers the world’s top designers under one roof, with brands including Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton, Stella McCartney and Rick Owens.

And that’s the tip of the iceberg. Finish with dinner in the top floor Concept 13.

Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59, tel. 22 222 2200, open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00, www. zlotetarasy.pl Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Jatomi Health and Fitness Club.

SPONSORED ARTICLE

The World Is Not Enough

Polish fashion designers continue to win international plaudits, not least Viola Śpiechowicz, one of the brightest lights on the domestic map…

O

n February 20th clients, media and showbiz reps converged on Viola Śpiechowicz’s studio to learn the results of an international research survey conducted by students of the University of Amsterdam. Focusing on the fashion industry of developed and emerging nations, the analysis – overseen

by Dr. Clarence van der Putte – offered plenty of cause for celebration: according to van der Putte’s conclusions, the Polish fashion sector was defined by its commitment to quality, its unique designs and competitive prices.

Faring particularly well were the collections of Viola Śpiechowicz. Over 53% of Swedish respondents claimed they’d buy her clothing, citing their stylish, chic look as their principal motivation. It’s no surprise, therefore, that Śpiechowicz chose to mark the occasion with the launch of her new side-project: the Wake-Up The Bear brand. Created with young, active people in mind, the clothes are characterized by their oversized nature, minimalistic cuts and comfortable fabrics: essentially, these are clothes designed to be worn for everyday living.

Prices of zł. 300 to zł. 1,000 make the collection all the more attractive, though as you can expect from Śpiechowicz, this hasn’t compromised the quality.

Wake Up The Bear ul. Mokotowska 41, wakeupthebear.com

Clockwise from top: students of the University of Amsterdam dressed to the nines for the presentation of their findings; dress by Rozalia; Dr. Clarence van der Putte leads the praise for Viola Śpiechowicz; shirt and skirt by Art Deco.

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family activities Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. 22 596 41 00, open Tue-Fri 9:00-6:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-7:00, www.kopernik.org.pl A brilliant array of science-inspired attractions that prove as stimulating for parents as they are for the kids. Check out Galeria BZZZ, an area designated for children up to six. In order to keep numbers manageable, expect entry times to be staggered.

Gym Generation ul. Wybrzeże Gdyńskie 4 (Centrum Olimpijskie, floor 4), tel. 502 092 695, gymgeneration.pl A professionally developed curriculum that offers your child a range of experiences, providing new and exciting activities each time and engaging them in physical challenges, a variety of games and team puzzles. There’s a maximum of 15 kids to a class, with one instructor for every five children.

Red Glass/Rondo Daszyńskiego: we began our day with a history lesson. Rather intense but worthwhile for all ages is the Warsaw Rising Museum, a quick three minute walk from this metro stop.

Lime Green Glass/Swiętokrzyska: whatever the weather the iconic Palace of Culture demands a photo, and possibly the occasional detour into the charmingly dated Technical Museum.

Turquoise Blue Glass/Centrum Nauki Kopernik: after snapping some selfies with the largest Mermaid in town, and a cosmic shopping experience at the Science Center gift shop, have a walk outside and admire the river you’re about to go under.

Dark Green Glass/Stadion Naradowy: the perfect place to drop-off the husband before heading down to explore the river beach café area and check out the views of the city skyline.

Blue Glass/Dw.Wileński: before ending our day we hopped out at this station said good evening to the animals at Warsaw Zoo. Of course, as an Easter tradition we took another selfie with the largest Pisanki Egg sculpture in Warsaw!

For ticket/route information www.ztm.waw.pl

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HulaKula ul. Dobra 56/66, tel. 22 552 74 00, open Mon-Tue 12:00-24:00; Wed 12:00-1:00; Fri 12:00-3:00; Sat 10:00-4:00; Sun 10:0024:00, www.hulakula.com.pl Bowling alley and soft indoor playground: heaven for kids and hell for grown-ups! Children love to climb, explore and slide into large ball pools. Parents hate the lack of daylight and fast food menu.

Little Chef ul. Bałuckiego 30/1, tel. 501 093 691, www.littlechef.pl (visit for more information) Cooking classes for children age 3-16. Groups for younger children age 4-10 and Junior Chef courses age 11-16. Kids cook and eat healthy meals. Great fun! Classes in English and Polish, Mon-Sat.

PHOTOGRAPH BY GILL BOELMAN-BURROWS

DAY TRIPPING ON THE NEW METRO

Guitar Classes Tel. 732 860 825, arekniezgoda@hotmail. com Private guitar lessons either at your place or in a private studio in Wilanów.

Classic, acoustic and electric guitar taught by Arek, a 35-year old teacher who covers most styles from classic to pop/rock. Previous work experience includes teaching in private music schools in California and at The British School of Warsaw. Both kids and adults are welcome.

listings / family Little Gym ul. Bruzdowa 56, tel. 22 842 0728, www. thelittlegym.pl Expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-to-child ratio, original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. Not only a great place for children, but tailored to a comfortable and relaxing stay for parents as well.

Mums & Tots www.mumsandtots.pl A volunteer group for mums (and dads) of all nationalities – coffee mornings, play groups, art and music classes and nights out for parents; the list is endless.

For more details, as well as their newsletter and schedule check their web.

Wilanów Golf Driving Range/ Ekberg Golf Academy ul. Vogla 19, tel. 22 424 7083, open Mon-Sun 9:00-21:00, www.golfparkspoland. pl Keen golfers (all ages) can perfect their swing at this friendly, well equipped driving range, whilst beginners can opt for professional individual lessons or beginner group programs in English or Polish. There is a weekly junior hour (5-15yrs), ladies hour and fun mini-golf course.

education preschools American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, www.aswarsaw.org ASW provides an American-styled educational program to students aged 4 and 5. The curriculum offers a rich, meaningful and balanced educational experience through age-appropriate activities.

For further information and/or to visit our school, contact: admissions@aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00.

The British School Early Years Centre ul. Dąbrowskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel.

22 646 7777, british@thebritishschool.pl, www.thebritishschool.pl The British School provides special classes from pre-nursery aged 30 months to 6 years old. Children at the Early Years Centre move on to our Primary and Secondary schools at Limanowskiego 15.

The British School of Warsaw in Wilanów ul. Hlonda / Ledóchowskiej, tel.

781 988 000, bsww.pl The school is affiliated with University of Cambridge International Examinations which mandates the educational program, qualifications and examinations for pupils up to 19 years of age. Currently admission is offered only to children between 2 and 7 years old (Nursery and Reception, Year 1 levels) for 2014/15. Older children are encouraged to submit application for 2015/16 or 2016/17.

Buzzy Bee Bilingual Preschool & Kindergarten ul. Śląska 45, tel. 502 036 962 / 22 863 30 96, www.przedszkole-wlochy.pl An English immersion program designed for Polish and international children aged one to five. The curriculum is conducted in Polish and English and prepares children for entry into their Vancouver primary schools. The school is situated in a quiet, green neighborhood of Stare Włochy and includes a 2,000 sq/m garden.

The Canadian School of Warsaw Preschool Unit ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, preschool@canadianschool.pl The Canadian School of Warsaw is the only authorized school in Warsaw teaching IB PYP in English. The preschool offers a bilin-

gual environment for 3-6 year olds enriched with foreign languages and extra activities.

Serving the Warsaw community since 2000, they’re now found on new premises 100m from Mokotów’s Dreszera Park and 300m away from Ogródek Jordanowski. All children are welcome, though available space is limited. For further info, tours and school visits call or email.

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations)

Warsaw Montessori School ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www.warsawmontessori. edu.pl Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have 3 green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy.

Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. Call to make an appointment to tour any of the 3 schools.

Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupery ul. Nobla 16, tel. 22 616 14 99, www.ecole-montessori.pl The preschool is located in the Saska Kępa

The English speaking preschool for children from the international community.

The English Playhouse invites you to the

Annual Earth Day picnic at Rzodkiewki 18.

Rain or shine!

25th April 2015, 10:00 a.m. – 2:00 p.m.

Come and meet the teachers, parents chi and children from our preschool.

Call to arrange a tour of the preschool:

+48 784 037 808 Register for 2015/2016 school year!

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listings / family district and provides a Montessori curriculum in French for children aged from 18 months to 6 years old.

The English Playhouse ul. Pływiańska 14a & ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 22 843 9370, office open 8:00-16.00, www.theenglishplayhouse.com The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów.

The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old. For more info or to arrange a tour of the pre-school or nursery call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email: jnowak@theenglishplayhouse.com

The International Preschool of Warsaw ul. Kalatowki 24, tel. 22 843 0964, ipw.edu.pl IPW is located in a residential area of Mokotów, within walking distance of Królikarnia as well as both tram and metro lines. Children from 2.5 to 6 years old are welcome. English is the language spoken and breakfast, lunch and snacks are provided during the day. Children also have the opportunity to participate in gymnastics, music, art and drama classes. IPW serves the international community and prepares children for international education.

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Happy Montessori House Warsaw Montessori Pre-school, ul. Rumiana 14, tel. 22 423 50 75, mob. 697 060 504, open 7.30-17:00, www.hmh.com.pl The Happy Montessori House offers part-time and full-time places for children aged between 2 to 6 years, as well as toddler-focused activities (from 18 months to 3 years) centered around movement, sensorial stimulation, storytelling, singing and socialising.

Maple Tree Montessori ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/ Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, www.mapletreemontessori.pl Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). Find them located in the Wilanów district of Warsaw, in a house safely nestled into the end of a quiet street.

Międzynarodowa Szkoła Podstawowa Argonaut ul. Radarowa 6, tel. 504 509 504, open Mon-Fri 7.30-18:00, www.argonaut.edu.pl This elementary school is open for children of all nationalities and backgrounds. It places a focus on learning English as well as

additional languages, and has an attractive list of available extracurricular activities.

schools American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, www. aswarsaw.org ASW is a premier collegepreparatory international school that offers a PK-12 curriculum, including the IB Diploma Program in Grades 11 and 12. Students are inspired and challenged every day by experienced and dedicated teachers, who provide enriching learning opportunities in a world class facility. For further information and/ or to visit our school contact: admissions@ aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00.

The British School ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, open 8:00-16:00, british@thebritishschool. pl, www.thebritishschool.pl Top-ranking private school in Warsaw providing outstanding education based on the British system.

The Canadian School of Warsaw – Middle and High School Unit ul. Olimpijska 11, tel. 600 247 655, www. canadian-school.pl Provides a continuation of IB education for 11-15 year olds. Interna-

listings / family tional staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create a perfect learning and creative thinking environment. For further info, tours and school visits call or email.

The Canadian School of Warsaw Primary School ul. Bełska 7, tel.

692 411 573, admission@ canadian-school.pl, www. canadian-school.pl The Canadian School of Warsaw is the only authorized school in Warsaw teaching IB PYP in English. The Primary School offers bilingual education for 6-11 year olds. Highly qualified, international staff, challenging materials and a friendly atmosphere provide an optimal setting for the highest standard of education. Extra-curricular activities include visual arts, designing classes, ceramics/pottery, art studio, music lessons (piano, guitar, choir), sports (capoeira, karate, judo, soccer, swimming, gymnastics), languages (English, Polish, French, Spanish, Italian, German) and more.

Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupery ul. Nobla 16, tel. 22 616 14 99, www.saintexupery.pl Established in 1994, the Antoine de Saint-Exupery preschool and school provides a French curriculum for children aged from 3 to eleven years old in a welcoming family atmosphere. Highly qualified native French-speaking teachers.

Vancouver School ul. Globusowa 38, tel.

887 808 266, vancouverschools.pl The teaching system here combines the best practices and aspects of the Polish and Canadian education systems, with daily classes in English conducted in accordance with the proven method of ‘immersion’ using modern Canadian and British materials.

Warsaw Montessori School ul. Szwoleżerów 4, tel. 22 841 3908, sylvia@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www. warsawmontessori.edu.pl Focuses on the Montessori curriculum with an education based on the integration of conceptual learning and real-life experiences.

cafes Kolonia ul. Łęczycka (corner of Ładysława), tel. 661 064 944 or 605 084 804, open 9:00-20:00, www.kolonia-ochota.pl Not just an excellent cafe, Kolonia is aslo equipped with a garden/ playground. Kolonia is the most kid-friendly (and pet-friendly) place in the area, offering fresh daily specials and a staff that always welcomes you with a smile.

Kredkafe al. Wyzwolenia 14, tel. 22 622 1561 or 502 683 246, open 10:00-20:00. www.kredkafe.

pl The interiors look great, bright and cheerful with cute cartoon sketches and an entire playroom complete with toys, stuffed animals and a playhouse. There is even a mini-theater where the kids can put on puppet shows. Bathrooms, of course, have baby-change facilities. The brainchild of two women with experience in hospitality and pedagogy, part of the idea of Kredkafe was to create a teaching space.

shops

Muppetshop ul. Kazimierzowska 43, tel. 532 689 212, muppetshop.pl An innovative concept store that offers a wide range of brands and products targeted at young people – babies, juniors, teenagers. The portfolio includes full-service for expecting parents as well as complete interior projects (from 0 to the first-owned apartment). On top of that expect a wealth of other design products (kitchen accessories, decorations, toys, bags, books etc.) from carefully selected brands such as Quax, Lodger, Chispum, Shnuggle, Collegien, Jielde, Gubi and many more besides. It all serves to make it the No. 1 spot for your youngsters shopping.

warsaw montessori school

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health & beauty cycling stores AveBmx ul. Dobra 56/66, tel. 22 828 0213, avebmx. pl Cult BMX store in the hip Powiśle district.

Staffed by true enthusiasts who live the BMX lifestyle, it’s the No. 1 spot in Warsaw for those who see BMX as the only way to cycle.

Bikeman Al. Wyzwolenia 14, bikeman.pl On-road, x-road and off-road bikes, with brands including Alpina, Burley, Ergon and Giant.

Accessories include helmets, gloves, backpacks plus everything you need to revive your bike if it passes out.

The Hermit

FAB FOUR: MEN’S GROOMING BARBERIAN ACADEMY & BARBER SHOP (ul. Emilii Plater 25 & ul. Koszykowa 9) Away from the black clouds of metrosexuality, Barberian is where men gather to celebrate being men.

Lauded as the local champion of male grooming, this stand out has a rebel chic layout and barbers who are experts in their field.

THE HERMIT BARBER SHOP (pl. Bankowy 1, thehermit.pl) You know those London barber shops you see in 1930s film reels? That’s Hermit, a thrilling throwback right down to the barber’s pole and checkered flooring. But don’t be fooled, this is as upmarket as it gets, with top quality products and even some 16-year-old whisky with which to pair the experience.

ROSTOWSKI (ul. Koszykowa 58, rostowskibarbershop.pl) A true celebration of the vintage, Rostowski have the ambiance nailed to a tee thanks to a crew that’s ready for banter and an interior replete with jack-up chairs, glinting zinc and restored floor tiles.

SPEARSIDE (ul. Grzybowski 63, spearside.pl) A male spa / salon offering massage, manicure, scrubs, physiotherapy and a range of treatments aimed at improving your ‘quality of life’. More modern-looking than the rest, hair and grooming solutions are provided by Maciej, a barber of exceptional talent.

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Galeria Sztuki Rowerowej ul. Widok 10, tel. 507 202 572 Glorious bikes, many of them vintage, and many of them in colors that’ll make you the talk of the town. Not just affordable prices, they also promise to fix your bike for free should it suddenly conk out.

Kettler ul. Okopowa 56, tel. 22 826 3541, pl.kettler. net The world-renowned Kettler brand brings the full extent of their offer to Warsaw. On the bike front that means mountain bikes, city and their innovative e-bikes. This being Kettler, find also numerous other products to contribute to your active lifestyle.

Wygodny Rower Various locations, tel. 888 498 498, wygodnyrower.pl Bike store and service center chain dealing with city bikes, fixed gear, single speed and road bikes. A huge range of bikes, running from Abus to Zefal via manufacturers such as Pashley, Fuji and Adriatica.

gyms Fitness Centre at the Radisson SAS Centrum Hotel ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888 Smallish but well-regarded gym with swimming pool, sauna, gym, and group classes inside one of Warsaw’s top five stars.

Fitness Centre at the Sheraton Hotel ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6701, www.sheraton.

listings / health & beauty com/warsaw The Sheraton spa features sauna, steam room and massage, while the gym comes with LCD-fitted running and cycling machines, and a dedicated cardio section. Personal training available, as are group classes covering pilates, yoga, aerobics and even ski conditioning.

Holmes Place Energy Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (C.H. Arkadia), ul.

Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), www. holmesplace.pl Making top-flight gym facilities available to the masses, the Holmes Place Energy brand offers high standard equipment, personal training and group classes. Six month membership available for approx. zł. 200 per month, though prices are subject to change. For latest details enquire direct.

Holmes Place Premium ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel), tel.

22 851 0563, ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), tel. 22 313 1222, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), tel. 519 436 841, www.holmesplace.pl Those who use it claim the Hilton branch is the best gym in Poland.

Set on two floors, highlights include a 25 meter pool, sauna and steam room and a spacious gym packed with the most modern equipment. Also on-site, a varied timetable of classes, excellent personal trainers and a Green Coffee relaxation area. There’s two more ‘premium’ gyms to choose from, including the one in the Marriott immortalized after Obama’s recent work out there.

Little Gym ul. Bruzdowa 56, tel. 22 842 0728, www.thelittlegym.pl Targeted at children, expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-to-child ratio, original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. Englishspeaking, as well.

Pure Jatomi Fitness Platinum Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59 (floor 3, opposite McDonald’s), tel. 22 379 7777, open Mon-Fri 6:00-22:30; Sat 8:00-22:30; Sun 8:00-21:00, www. jatomifitness.pl The largest and fastest growing fitness chain in Poland currently has 35 locations and 117,000 members across the country. All clubs have new generation machines, innovative forms of group activities (Booiaka, Hot Yoga, Pure Pump, Pure Fire and Wah Gwan Dancehall) and professional personal trainers schooled in nutrition and the healthy lifestyle.

Pure Jatomi Fitness Platinum Zodiak ul. Widok 26, tel. 22 100 3400, open 24hrs, www.jatomifitness.pl Poland’s fastest growing fitness chain has been recognized for excellence after being named SCF Leisure & Fitness Retailer of the Year 2014. Other Pure Jatomi clubs in Warsaw include: Blue City, Galeria Renova, Sadyba Best Mall, Promenada and Targówek.

RiverView Wellness Centre ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental), tel. 22 328 86 40, www.riverview.com.pl Top-class facilities and equipment, private instructors and small classes. The view from the highest pool in Europe offers a glorious panorama of the city. Annual prices from zł. 4,200 (access from Mon-Fri 6 a.m. to 5 p.m.), zł. 5,760 (all times), and zł. 8,350 for Diamond Membership (includes two personal training sessions per month, a complimentary weekend at the InterContinental, restaurant discounts, etc.).

dental clinics ArtDental ul. Łucka 18, tel. 22 654 3006, artdental.pl Well-known among expats, ArtDental’s service is widely praised for its honest service and moderate prices. English speaking and moderately priced.

Aster Med ul. Św. Bonifacego 92, tel. 22 858 0354, www.astermed.pl Aster Med, while billing itself as a center of orthodontics and implantology, is really the full service with 14 dentists and 4 orthodontists and implant surgeons.

DeClinic ul. Bernardyńska 16A, tel. 22 112 0400, declinic.pl Regarded as one of the most modern clinics in Europe, amongst other innovations DeClinic have swapped the traditional drilling process in favor of abrasive sandblaster – perfect for kids or those afraid of the dentist.

DentaLux ul. Racławicka 31 & Puławska 257, tel. 22 787 878, dentalux.pl Englishspeaking service available, as well as 24hr emergency consultations.

EuroDental Various locations, tel. 22 380 7000,

eurodental.pl English-speaking dentists on request. Lacking the ‘boutique’ charm of some of Warsaw’s more modish clinics, the service here is both efficient and moderately priced.

Elektoralna Dental Clinic ul. Elektoralna 28, tel. 22 620 2140, elektoralna.pl State-of-the-art dental clinic featuring Poland’s first dental tomograph.

Languages spoken include English, German, Spanish and Arabic.

Malo Clinic Domaniewska 37 (3rd floor), tel. 22 393 6333, www.maloclinics.com/polska This world class dental clinic incorporates five dental offices, an operating room, two recovery rooms and a state-of-the-art diagnostic center.

Odent ul. Nowoursynowska 145E (entry from ul.

Rosoła) & ul. Duchnicka 3, tel. 22 405 4430, odent.pl Dubbed ‘the clinic with a heart’, Odent’s personal approach is complimented by expert staff and the latest and most advanced treatments and equipment.

English-speaking service also available.

medical clinics Damian Medical Center Various locations, see website for details: damian.pl Established in 1994, Damian offer a wide range of medical services in their hospital and five outpatient clinics. English spoken widely.

Ren Clinic Al. Gen. Władysława Sikorskiego 9A lok.

12A, tel. 22 414 2222 or 501 126 108, www.renclinic.pl Surgical care, cosmetics, medical dermatology, aesthetic medicine and more.

Lux Med Medical Clinics Various locations, see website for details: www.luxmed.pl Medicover Various locations, see website for details: medicover.pl Hugely popular amongst ex-pats, Medicover offer a wide range of membership schemes for both private and corporate clients. The jewel in their crown is a state-of-the-art hospital in the Wilanów district. www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / health & beauty Melitus ul. Słowackiego 12, tel. 22 833 7438, mob.

603 060 621, www.melitus.pl Specializing in dermatology, surgery, phlebology, endocrinology, gynecology and internal medicine.

The clinic is equipped with the latest and most innovative medical equipment and employs several renowned clinicians.

Therapy Warsaw ul. Filtrowa 69/13, tel. 601 532 319, www.therapywarsaw.com English-speaking therapy for couples and individuals dealing with relationships, eating disorders, trauma, stress and much more besides.

Warszawskie Centrum Zdrowia ul. Nowogrodzka 76, tel. 22 857 3014, www.wcz.waw.pl Specializes in the prevention, early detection and treatment of cardiovascular disease.

skating National Stadium Al. Poniatowskiego 1, zimowynarodowy.pl This is the one everyone is taking about. Find three rinks (two of which are connected by an ‘ice path’), an ‘ice hill’, a disco rink and a Christmas fair and ‘ice bistro’ in the middle of it all. Last year saw 105,000 people visit, and that number is expected to be smashed this time around. Price: zł. 13-15 for 75 mins.

Old Town Square Rynek Starego Miasto Following its hugely successful debut last year, Old Town’s ice rink returned in December, this time with the rink centered around the mermaid statue. Once again there’s numerous wooden cabins selling mulled wine, snacks and gifts – skating under the stars here is an absolutely magical experience.

Torwar ul. Łazienkowska 6A, torwar.pl Lacking the bells and whistles of other more modern rinks, Towar is something of a blast to the past. Admission is charged at zł. 8-12 with skate rental from zł. 7.

spas & salons Bartek Janusz Salon ul. Mokotowska 19 / ul. Wilcza 72, tel. 22 828 4444, www.bartekjanusz.pl The staff here takes a no-nonsense approach to

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cutting hair – it goes along with the minimalist chic interiors of the place. According to one Insider: “I’ve never left a salon feeling so happy with my hair.”

Bio.Sis Nail Spa ul. Mokotowska 26, tel. 22 621 1404. A top spot for a classic manicure or pedicure – they also do lots of complicated things with gels and other hi-tech nail discoveries. Also on Elektoralna 24.

BodyClinic ul. Oboźna 9 lok. 104, tel. 22 826 1160 or 784 677 618, open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat 9:00-15:00, www.bodyclinic.pl Thorough body care for everyone. From the usual options to a huge variety of massages and some very exotic treatments, BodyClinic covers all the bases.

Dotyk SPA ul. Biały Kamień 3, tel. 22 898 7272, open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Sat 9:00-18:00, www.dotykspa.pl Probably the only place in Warsaw where you’ll get a facial yoga session. Going futher east, treat yourself to Japanese, Polynesian or Indian massage.

Fiuu Fiuu Day Spa ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 629 2414. A wonderful quick fix salon that makes use of the latest Ericson products and other top brands. Regarded as one of the top ladies day spas in the country.

Hair a Porter ul. Belwederska 23 (Hyatt Hotel, level -1), tel.

22 558 1555, open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat 9:00-17:00, www.hair-a-porter.pl A staunch favorite among the ex-pat crowd, Hair a Porter offer the ultimate hair experience utilizing talented staff and top-quality products.

Haircology ul. Rozbrat 44A, tel. 669 780 669, open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-last guest, www.haircology.pl An upmarket ecologically minded hairdresser that eschews such things as synthetic fragrances, silicon and preservatives.

Izar Repechage ul. Moliera 1, tel. 604 209 900 or 22 827 7195, open Mon-Fri 8:00-20:00; Sat 8:00-

14:00, www.repechage.net.pl A gorgeous city spa which a range of treatments for the whole body.

La Perla multiple locations inc. Łowicka 21B/1, Wilcza 22A, Hilton Hotel, klinikalaperla.pl Here, the staff is adept and certified at a range of innovative treatments: from the non-invasive Bella Contour treatment to the Body Tite and Body Jet treatments that use the latest surgical procedures to slim and tighten. For summer the right spa/salon/clinic is key. La Perla’s all three in one!

Le Spa ul. Mokotowska 55, tel. 22 622 9428, open Mon-Fri 9:00-21:00, Sat 9:00-16:00.

This little island of peace and beauty takes you light-years away from the bustle of Warsaw.

Pardon My French ul. Belwederska 32, tel. 22 240 6290, pardonmyfrench.pl The equipment here is state-of-the art, particularly the massage chairs for indulgent pedicures. While gel tips and all that hybrid stuff is all the rage now, it might be more prudent to get a classic mani/pedi to avoid beauty emergencies when you’re drifting in the middle of the Mediterranean on P. Diddy’s yacht.

The Pedicure Place ul. Pokorna 2, lok. u11, tel. 22 241 3000 or 505 828 688, open Mon-Fri 9:00-21:00; Sat 9:00-18:00, www.pedicure-place.pl A luxury pedi/manicure clinic with room for 10. All the latest OPI varnishes and over 200 colors guarantee you’ll find the latest in styling and nail care.

Retro Day Spa Al. Ujazdowskie 18/11, no. 311, tel. 22 622 03 69, www.retrodayspa.pl Royally indulgent interiors hark back to a different century, though the treatments are all hi-tech and include packages for pregnant women among the variety of beauty offers.

Studio Jej i Jego ul. Wiertnicza 93A, tel. 22 885 0085, open Mon-Fri 9:00-21:00; Sat 9:00-19:00, www. jejijego.pl Hair and beauty treatments for men and women – inc. nail care, massage, facial and body treatments.

You & You Maciej Wróblewski ul. Grzybowska 61 (Galeria Platinum Towers),

listings / health & beauty tel. 606 994 226, youandyou.eu Poland’s premier hair stylist is Maciej Wróblewski, and his flagship salon fuses a personal approach with professional styling. Disappointments are unheard of.

sport BGZ Arena / Velodrome ul. Andrzeja 1 (Pruszków), tel. 22 738 8394, bgzarena.com Bring a cycling helmet and you too can take a spin around the velodrome in Pruszków. Bike hire possible, with spins priced at approximately at zł. 40 per hour. For further details enquire directly.

Centrum Golf – Sklep & Symulatory Golfowe ul. Solec 18/20, tel. 22 428 88 84, 2golf.pl A great way to introduce yourself to the game, Centrum Golf offers HDGolf simulators that will take you to the world’s most famous gold courses. The center is home to the only open golf league in the country.

First Warsaw Golf & Country Club ul. Golfowa (Jabłonna), tel. 22 782 4555, firstwarsawgolf.com Found 25 kiometers from Warsaw, this golf club features a par 71, 18-hole championships golf course, all year driving range, club house and a stunning backdrop to which to enjoy it all.

Frogs & Co. warsawfrogs.com While it originated as an expat team, Warsaw’s only social rugby club welcomes all: supporters, players, young, old, men and women. The rugby is taken seriously, and so too is the social side.

Golf Park Jozefów ul. Telimeny (Józefów), tel. 22 778 3090, holiday.aquila.pl A six-hold course plus a floodlit driving range and mini-golf.

Golf Parks Poland ul. Vogla 19, www.golfparkspoland.pl. Keen golfers (all ages) can perfect their swing at this friendly, well equipped driving range, whilst beginners can opt for professional individual lessons or beginner group programs in English or Polish.

Hash House Harriers Billing themselves as ‘the drinking club with a running problem’, the Warsaw chapter of the Hash House Harriers meets every couple of weeks and welcomes runners and walkers of

every level. Search for them on Facebook for further details.

levels of proficiency: from total beginners to competitive swimmers.

Sinnet Club ul. Gołkowska 2, tel. 22 550 3400, www. sinnet.pl An exclusive members sport club featuring full-size indoor tennis courts, two external courts, three squash courts, a 25 meter swimming pool plus spa and gym facilities.

RiverView Wellness Centre ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental), tel.

22 328 86 40, riverview.com.pl Another members only pool, and this one is really worth the membership cost – it’s the highest pool in Europe. Stunning views of Warsaw make this a swim to remember.

Warsaw Cricket Club ul. Romatyczna 3 (Panorama Country Club), warsawcricketclub.pl The oldest cricket club in the country is mainly comprised of Brits, Poles and South Asians. New members and supporters are welcomed – for details check their website.

Wodny Park ul. Merliniego 4, tel. 22 854 0130, wodnypark.com.pl When looking for a pool, most look no further: on-site find an Olympic swimming pool, recreational pool complete with artificial river, slides and tubes, a Russian ‘banya’ zone, not to mention other attractions like bowling and squash courts.

Warsaw International Triathlon Club warsawtriclub.com Serving the needs of the athletic community, the WITC is open to all interested in the disciplines of swimming, cycling and running.

W Pionie ul. Nowowiejska 37B, wpionie.pl An 11 meter climbing wall founded by two mountaineers. Considered one of the most advanced facilities of its kind in the country, English-speaking instructors can be rustled up on request.

swimming Aquapark Wesolandia ul. Wspólna 4 (Wesoła), tel. 22 773 9191, wesolandia.pl Features a recreational pool, kids pool and a 25 meter pool for more serious swimmers. Also on-site, a water tube, Jacuzzi, tennis and fitness facilities.

Holmes Place Premier ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel), tel.

22 851 0563, ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), tel. 22 313 1222, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), tel. 519 436 841, holmesplace. pl All the ‘premier’ outposts of Holmes Place tout swimming pools, though most agree it is the one in the Hilton branch that’s the best.

Enquire direct about membership fees.

Private Coaching Tel. 512 517 013, anthonypst.wix.com/ anthonypst Ozzie Anthony offers one-onone swimming classes conducted at your venue of choice. Fully qualified, he offers tailor-made lessons for all ages and all

yoga & pilates Astanga Yoga Studio ul. Gałczyńskiego 4, tel. 22 465 8810, astanga.pl Established in 2005, this studio specializes in ashtanga and also offers physiotherapy, Hawaiian massage, reflexology and kalari chikitsa.

Bikram Yoga Al. Jana Pawła II 61 lok. 305, tel.

888 204 020, www.bikram.pl A modern studio equipped with lockers, showers and the requisite hot room. Practitioners of all levels are welcome.

Diamond Pilates ul. Powsińska 106, tel. 22 331 4495, diamondpilates.pl The first professional Pilates studio in Poland continues to be the pacesetter. Offers group and individual training, the latest equipment, dietary consultations and workshops for instructors.

Pilates (Private Classes) Tel. 608 499 666. A private studio in Wilanów with classes for one to four people that guarantee 100% attention from Laura, your instructor.

Yoga Medica ul. Racławicka 28, tel. 22 409 0354, yogamedica.pl Using hatha yoga as the basis, the individualized approach to exercise comes from the founder’s background as a physiotherapist. Tailor-made programs ideal for those recovering from injury or health issues. www.warsawinsider.pl

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in the city PLAC CRAWL: Piłsudskiego

Named after Poland’s greatest leader, pl. Piłsudskiego is the spiritual center of native patriotism – a fact not lost on past conquerors (the Germans renamed it Adolf Hitler Plaz). The great man himself can be found standing on a plinth staring down the square. Cast in the Gdynia Naval Shipyard, the monument to Piłsudski was unveiled in 1995, 75 years after he masterminded victory in the Battle of Warsaw. Directly in front, the first papal visit of John Paul II is honored by way of a nine meter cross that was unveiled on the 20th anniversary of a landmark speech – delivered in this square – that many credit for lighting the touch paper for political change.

The only surviving fragment of the Saski Palace, the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, was created in 1925, less than two decades before the royal residence flanking it was mined by the Nazis. Today the tomb contains soil from every 20th century battlefield on which Poland has had a presence. Nearby, Sir Norman Foster’s contribution to Warsaw can be found in the donut-shape of the Metropolitan Building, an architectural standout complete with a wooshing fountain in the courtyard.

For something more historic the Europejski, opened in 1857, was considered the first world-class hotel in Poland. Both Robert Kennedy and The Rolling Stones once stayed there, and work is currently underway to restore the structure to its former glory. Rumor has it Michelin starred chef Wojciech Amaro is to open a top floor restaurant here once renovations are complete.

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listings / in the city VISITORS accomodation 5-Star Hotels

Bristol Hotel ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1000, bristol@luxurycollection. com, www.hotelbristolwarsaw.pl

H15 Boutique ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 553 8700, info@h15ab.com, www.h15ab.com Hilton Warsaw ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555 / 800 44 11 482, www.hilton.com InterContinental ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com Mamaison Le Régina Hotel Warsaw ul. Kościelna 12, tel. 22 531 6000, www. mamaison.com Marriott Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 6306, www.warsawmarriott.com Regent Warsaw Hotel ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, reservations@regent-warsaw.com, www.regent-warsaw.com The Rialto Boutique Hotel ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8700, www.rialto.pl Sheraton ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6100, www.sheraton.pl Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-warsaw

Westin Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, www.westin.pl

4-Star Hotels

Airport Hotel Okęcie ul. 17-ego Stycznia 24, tel. 22 456 8000, www.airporthotel.com.pl Hampton by Hilton ul. Wspólna 72, tel. 22 317 2700, hamptoninn3.hilton.com Radisson Blu Sobieski pl. Zawiszy 1, tel. 22 579 1000, www.sobieski.com.pl Mecure Warszawa Centrum ul. Złota 48/54, tel. 22 697 3999, www.mercure.com Mercure Grand Warszawa ul. Krucza 28, tel. 22 583 2100, www.mercure.com Courtyard by Marriott Hotel (Airport) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 0100, www.warszawacourtyard.pl

Hotel Reytan ul. T. Rejtana 6, tel. 22 201 6400, www.reytan.pl

apartments

InterContinental ul. Emili Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www. warsaw.intercontinental.com Long and short stay apartments provided by the hotel of the same name. Perks included are the same as those received by hotel guests: i.e. access to the top floor pool, room service, maid service etc.

MaMaison Residence Diana ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 9100, www.mamaison.com/diana A beautiful city center location from the same team behind Le Regina. Short and long term stays.

B&B

Between Us Bed & Breakfast ul. Bracka 20, tel. 22 8285417 (from 10 a.m. to 11p.m.), www.between-us.eu

Novotel Warszawa Centrum ul. Marszałkowska 94/98, tel. 22 596 0000, www.novotel.com, www.accorhotels.com

Boutique B&B ul. Smolna 14/6, tel. 22 829 4800, www.bedandbreakfast.pl

Polonia Palace Hotel Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. 22 318 2800, www.poloniapalace.com

Chmielna Guesthouse ul. Chmielna 13, tel. 22 828 1282, www.chmielnabb.pl

Warsaw Plaza Hotel ul. Łączyny 5, tel. 885 886 100, www. warsawplazahotel.pl

3-Star Hotels

Vision Apartments Warsaw Al. Jerozolimskie 81 ( 22nd floor), tel. 22 292 8888, www.visionapartments.eu Founded in Switzerland, Vision Apartments specialize in the rental of high-quality furnished apartments. In Warsaw, the company is present with designer apartments inside Platinum Towers on ul. Grzybowska.

Castle Inn Pl. Zamkowy, ul. Świętojańska 2, tel. 22 425 0100, www.castleinn.pl

car rental

Hotel Belwederski ul. Sulkiewicza 11, tel. 22 840 4011, www.hotelbelwederski.pl

Golden Tulip ul. Towarowa 2, tel. 22 582 7500.

Holiday Inn Express Warsaw Airport ul. Poleczki 35, tel. 22 373 37 00, www.hiexpress.com

Sofitel Warsaw Victoria ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8011, www.sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com

Hotel Belwederski ul. Sulkiewicza 11, tel. 22 840 4011, www.hotelbelwederski.pl

Novotel Warszawa (Airport) ul. 1-ego Sierpnia 1, tel. 22 575 6000

Avis tel. 22 572 6565, Fredrick Chopin Airport, tel. 22 650 4872, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 575 6583, Reservations: tel. 801 120 010, www.avis.pl Hertz Rent a Car Okęcie Airport, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel.

22 650 2896; mob. 691 411 130. ul.

Nowogrodzka 27 (D5), tel. 22 621 1360. www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / in the city Sixt Rent a Car ul. Arabska 9, tel. 22 511 1550, 22 511 1555, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 2031, www.sixt.pl Trust Rent a Car ul. Marynarska 14, tel. 22 843 0580, www. trustrentacar.pl

RESIDENTS relocation companies Euro Move International Movers ul. Kineskopowa 1, Piaseczno, tel. 22 716 5566, www.euromove.pl AGS Warsaw ul. Julianowska 37, Piaseczno, tel. 22 702 1072, www.agsmovers.com CorstJens Worldwide Movers Group ul. Nowa 23, Stara Iwiczna, tel. 22 737 7200, www.corstjens.com DuX Consulting Agency ul. Panieńska 9/28, tel. 22 670 4280 or 502 216 606 www.duxconsulting.com.pl Express Relocations ul. Szyszkowa 35/37, tel. 22 878 3535, www.expressrelocations.com Euro Move International Movers ul. Kineskopowa 1, Piaseczno, tel. 22 716 5566, www.euromove.pl Interdean International Relocation ul. Geodetów 172, Piaseczno, tel. 22 701 7171, www.interdean.com

Move One Relocations ul. Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 8160, www.moveonerelo.com Also immigration assistance, fine art shipping, pet transport and consulting services.

Relo Planet ul. Lwowska 5, tel. 22 658 1958, reloplanet. com International and domestic removals,

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transport and logistics solutions including office and individual moves, diplomatic posts, small shipments, storage and artwork.

pets

Bone Pet Club ul. Jedności 118, tel. 507 144 044, petclub.pl Dogs, cats, rabbits, rodents, birds and many other pets are welcomed inside this ‘hotel and spa’ designed exclusively for their use.

Facilities include grooming, lodging, pool, pet taxis and socialization classes. All pet sitters speak fluent English.

polish for foreigners Frog ul. Mazowiecka 12/24, tel. 22 403 7872 or 517 459 418, www.frog.org.pl Acclaimed language school aimed at all levels of competency. Flexible schedules and a history of working with foreigners make it one of the ‘go to’ choices for new arrivals wanting to polish their Polish.

KLUB

Klub Dialogu Gałczyńskiego 4, lok 903, tel. 664 788 004, www. klubdialogu.pl Outstanding programs for foreigners living in Poland offer a variety of courses aimed at every level. Using over ten years of experience, the leaning process becomes an adventure at Klub Dialogu.

community International Christian Fellowship ul. Puławska 326, icfwarsaw.org Interdenominational services in English (10:30am, Sunday). Facilities, programs and community activities for all ages: children, students and adults.

InterNations www.internations.org Drawing professionals from home and abroad the mission of

InterNations is to bring together ‘global minds’. Now an established part of Warsaw’s social and corporate circuit, their monthly meetings have become Must Do events on schedules round town.

Professionals in Warsaw meetup.com/Professionals-in-Warsaw New to town? There’s few better ways to give your social life a jump start than popping along to one of the informal drinks mixers conducted

by Professionals in Warsaw. Natives and foreigners of all backgrounds and professions are welcomed – all you have to do is buy your own drinks. Search for them on facebook.

Toastmasters International www.toastmasters.org.pl Toastmasters is the international organization for improving public speaking and presentation skills. The local club meets every Wednesday at 19.00.

Guests are always welcome without any obligation apart from a short introduction.

museums Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. 22 596 4100, kopernik.org.pl Interactive, witty and surprising, Copernicus allows visitors to experience an earthquake, blast recyclable objects into space and become a mystery cracking detective.

CSW ul. Jazdów 2, csw.art.pl Situated in a baroque-style castle the center hosts artists from all over the world. The on-site bookshop is of particular interest for artists and intellectuals. Ongoing till April 19: Natalia LL – Secretum et Tremor. The largest solo exhibition of Natalia LL for 16 years juxtaposes her early video and photographic work of the 1960s against lesser known existentialist works from the last two decades.

Dom Spotkań z Historią ul. Karowa 20, dsh.waw.pl The History Meeting House wins points for frequently excellent exhibitions that cover topics such as ‘rebuilding Warsaw’ and ‘Socialist Realist architecture.’ It won’t take longer than twenty minutes to peruse whatever exhibition is on, but it’s still a very worthwhile diversion and one of the city’s top secrets. Ongoing until April 6: The Great War in the East (19141918). Usually associated with the Western Front, this photographic exhibition aims to

listings / in the city redress the balance by covering WWI from an eastern angle. Ongoing: Photographers of The First World War: Brož, Myšička, Rajman.

The works of three Czech photographers present a glimpse of everyday life on both in and out of the frontline.

The Fryderyk Chopin Museum in Warsaw Ostrogski Palace, ul. Okólnik 1, chopin. museum Recognized as one of the most hi-tech museums in Europe, computer chip tickets allow visitors the chance to personalize the museum experience as never before.

Over 5,000 objects are present, among them Chopin’s pocket watch, his last piano, a lock of hair and even his death mask.

Invisible Exhibition Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, niewidzialna.pl Nothing challenges the sense of sight more than a total lack of it. Confused? Head to the Invisible Exhibition to learn first-hand the challenges faced by the blind. This includes everything from crossing the road to ordering a drink in a bar.

Królikarnia ul. Puławska 113A, krolikarnia.mnw.art.pl Fine art galore inside an elegant suburban palace. The young curator has decided to show some forgotten treasures from the rich archives of the National Museum. The gallery also hosts more contemporary works, such as those by Nicolas Grospierre and Agnieszka Polska.

Legia Museum ul. Łazienkowska 6, legia.com Aside from silverware affirming Legia’s status, find a vast collection of shirts, pennants and paintings (even part of an old floodlight). Pride of place goes to Legia’s favorite son, 70’s super star Kazimierz Deyna.

Museum of Communist Life ul. Glucha (opposite Soho Factory), tel.

606 225 525, adventurewarsaw.com Run by the excellent Adventure Warsaw tour guide company, the Museum of Communist Life brings together aspects of communist life through dioramas that present typical living

quarters of the time and a milk bar. Displays are numerous and quirky, and include a restored Saturator machine, a collection of commie hoovers, not to mention medals from the owner’s own family. A must see!

Polin - Museum of the History of Polish Jews ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl Composed of eight galleries, each covers a different stage of local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day. Covering 4,000 sq/m, highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec synagogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical inter-war Jewish Warsaw street.

Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw ul. Pańska 3, artmuseum.pl The very first museum of modern art in Warsaw, still fighting for a proper location, bravely manages to provide visitors with a display of contemporary Polish and international art. Ongoing till May 17: Recto / Verso – Andrzej Wróblewski.

This exhibition concentrates, we’re told, on

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listings / in the city two phases of this Polish artist’s work: the very beginning, when he was trying to discover his own style (1948-1949), and the very end (1956-1957) when, after a period of faith in socialist realism, he attempted to redefine himself and start from scratch. Ongoing till August 23: Lest The Two Seas Meet. Inspired by the Arab Spring, presents the works of numerous international artists, among them Mona Hatoum, Emily Jacir and Walid Raad.

Museum of Technology Palace of Culture, pl. Defilad 1, muzeumtechniki.warszawa.pl Following a maze-like route in the Palace of Culture, there’s curios aplenty: a Viennese calculator dating from 1898 that’s still in working order; a glowing ‘glass lady’ that lights up to demonstrate the inner workings of the body; communist era sports cars; a WWII Enigma machine. More pertinent to the younger generation, there’s a selection of vintage phones and laptop computers that hipsters would give their life for, not to mention hilarious TVs from days yore.

National Museum Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars. Ongoing till May 2: Olga Boznańska. The works of this Polish great have been sourced from near and far to present the most extensive collection of her work ever seen.

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The Neon Museum ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum. org This amazing project brings together the neon lights that once illuminated the city.

Among the collection are 35 landmark signs, many of which date from the 60s and 70s.

Pawiak ul. Dzielna 24/26. What was once a Tsarist prison assumed a doubly sinister function under the Nazis. Some 100,000 Polish political prisoners were held here, 37,000 of which were executed on-site. Split in two sections, cells are found on one side, while on the other the full story of the invasion and occupation.

Railway Museum ul. Towarowa 1, muzkol.pl Presented in scale model form, in here find hundreds of trains detailing the development of the Polish rail network. Not interested? Then maybe the three model railway villages will stir childhood memories or how about learning about WARS – Polish rail’s buffet division? Outside, stroll around a remarkable collection of beasts outside. These include a 1942 German armored train – apparently the only one of its type surviving in Europe – not to mention the personal carriage of Bolesław Bierut (Poland’s post-war leader), the rusting carcass of a 60s train and interwar steam engines straight out of Thomas the Tank Engine.

The Royal Castle in Warsaw Pl. Zamkowy 4, zamek-krolewski.pl Me-

ticulously restored after WWII, highlights inside include the lavishly restored 18th century royal apartments with 22 paintings

by Bernardo Bellotto (known as Canaletto), the Senators’ Chamber in which the Constitution of the Third of May was signed, the biggest collection of oriental rugs in Europe in the tin-roofed palace and two remarkable Rembrandt paintings.

Warsaw Rising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl Cope with the crowds to discover the definitive story of the 1944 Uprising. Exhibits range from a full-size replica of a Liberator plane, to a sewer beneath the cinema screen and a slice of bread preserved from 1944. And don’t miss the ‘City of Ruins’, a five minute 3D film which takes you on an aerial journey over devastated Warsaw. For panoramic views of Warsaw check the view tower.

Zachęta National Art Gallery Pl. Małachowskiego 3, zacheta.art.pl Probably the most famous gallery in Poland, this Zachęta has a thrilling, and at times controversial repertoire that makes it a must for modern art buffs. Ongoing till May 31: Cannibalism? This exhibition explores themes of borrowing, remixing and the sampling of works of art created by other artists.

Ongoing till May 10: Anna Jermolaewa – Good Times, Bad Times. The first Polish solo exhibition of this Austrian artist focuses on the basic conditions necessary for human existence.

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Yellow Double-Decker Bus

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Traveling over the course of approximately 1,5 hour, a double-decker bus will take you past many beautiful and interesting places of Warsaw, such as its interesting districts, palaces and churches, monuments and museums, parks and historical cemeteries, as well as the Jewish historical sites.

Koniec / The End Directed by Krzysztof Warlikowski Venue: ATM Studio, Wał Miedzeszyński 384 24th-26th of April 2015

A GPS 12 language audio-guide, will give explanations and accompany you to make your ride a more adventurous, exciting and an unforgettable one.

(A)pollonia Directed by Krzysztof Warlikowski Venue: ATM Studio, Wał Miedzeszyński 384 7th-9th of April 2015

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Nowy Teatr, Madalińskiego 10/16, Warsaw, 22 379 33 33 facebook.com/NowyTeatr | bow@nowyteatr.org | ebilet.pl | bilety24.pl

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Stadion Narodowy

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The Iron Man

The very embodiment of Polish manhood, the Insider explores the life of the national hero Józef Piłsudski… BY STUART DOWELL

J

ózef Piłsudski, the Iron Marshall, Commander of the Polish Legions, Head of State, Prime Minister and consummate chain-smoker, was quite simply the Daddy of Polish political and national life in the first half of the twentieth century. He was the man who regained Poland’s independence, fought a victorious war against Soviet Russia, and then got the country back on track by introducing a system of dictatorship-lite.

Piłsudski’s whole life was spent in the service of his nation, though, like many great Poles, he was actually born in Lithuania. After having Polish patriotic values instilled in him as a child, he set off to university in Kharkhiv, from which he was promptly expelled for attending revolutionary meetings.

Things took a turn for the worse, when, back in Vilnius in 1887, he was arrested for aiding an attempt on the Tsar’s life.

After surviving internal exile, Piłsudski operated a secret printing workshop in Łódź and was arrested again by the Russians in 1900. He was held in Warsaw’s Citadel and after pretending to be mad he was moved to a hospital in St. Petersburg, from which he escaped. When the First World War broke out Piłsudski was ready. Having already set up paramilitary associations in Lwów and Kraków, he formed the famous Polish Legions, a Polish army under Austrian command, the officers of which would go on to become the backbone of the Polish Army.

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In 1917, Piłsudski, seeing that Russia was doing badly in the war, seized his chance to assert Poland’s claim for independence by refusing to swear allegiance to the Central Powers. The Germans arrested him, but fearing a Bolshevik revolution in their own country, he was released in the hope that he would form a buffer in the shape of a newly independent Poland. Piłsudski spent the next three years securing the borders of the fledgling Polish state, which culminated in defeating the Red Army at the gates of Warsaw in 1920, which some historians believe stopped the Bolsheviks from marching on to the shores of the English Channel.

After having withdrawn from public life, the Marshall felt compelled to return after seeing the economy in shambles and political life in chaos. A coup d’état took place in May 1926 in Warsaw and Piłsudski’s new regime placed limits on parliamentary government in favour of a presidential system and he introduced a new constitution, which served the country up to the outbreak of WWII. Piłsudksi died of liver cancer on 12 May 1935. His body, after being on public display for two years in Wawel Cathedral, was finally laid to rest in the crypt underneath.

His heart was interred in his mother’s grave in Vilnius and his brain was bequeathed to Stefan Batory University for scientists to study as part of pseudo-scientific research into ‘elite’ brains that was so popular in the 1930s.

PHOTO. WILLEM VAN DE POLL/COLLECTION NATIONAAL ARCHIEF, DEN HAAG,2.24.14.02, PHOTO NR 190-0614, LICENSE CC-BY-SA

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