Warsaw Insider March 2015 #223

A Mermaid’s Tale page 20

Warsaw

Women of Warsaw

Polish Language page 12

Moving? page 24

March 03 price zł.10 INDEKS 334901 ISSN:1643-1723

(223)

2015

(VAT 8% included)

BALMAIN BALMAIN CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN CASADEI HERVE LEGER CHRISTIANISABEL LOUBOUTIN MARANT GIANVITO ROSSI KENZO MONCLER HERVE GAMME LEGER ROUGE RALPH LAUREN ISABEL MARANT SALVATORE FERRAGAMO JIMMY CHOO SIMONETTA RAVIZZA KENZO TOD’S TORY BURCH RALPH LAUREN SIMONETTAVALENTINO RAVIZZA TOD’S TORY BURCH VALENTINO VICTORIA BECKHAM YVES SALOMON

Moliera 2 Moliera 2 tel.: 228277099, www.Moliera2.com

tel.: 228277099, www.Moliera2.com

MARCH 2015 Editor-in-chief Alex Webber

insider@warsawinsider.pl Art Director Kevin Demaria insider@warsawinsider.pl Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com

regards global warming as one big hoax then where were you last month? I’m hardly meteorologically qualified, but surely that’s a candidate for the easiest Feb in expat history – no blizzards, no ice, no reenactment of Captain Scott’s trek across the Antarctic. Sometimes, you wondered if you were really in Poland.

Reminding us all that in fact, yes, we actually were, was the good city of Warsaw. “Only this city,” noted a friend, “could burn its bridges on Valentine’s night.” The fire on Most Łazienkowska slots comfortably into my file of Great Warsaw Cock-Ups, joining the ranks of the second metro line and the Watergate Scandal (remember that, when the Poland-England match was called off in a downpour because no-one knew how to close the state-of-the-art stadium roof?). If nothing else, it sure makes living in the city different. But anyway, enough looking back, what lies ahead? This issue, coinciding with International Women’s Day, we meet up with some of the ladies that are changing the shape of our lives in Warsaw. Also, we take a closer look at Warsaw’s fixation with mermaids, the future of stout and grapple with the language. Hope you enjoy it and see you next month.

alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

Infront

Opener 7 News 8 Trends: Stout 10

fEAtUrES

Women of Warsaw 12 Mermaids 20 Polish Language 24

2

LIStIngS

Restaurants 33 Cafes & Wine Bars 59 Nightlife 62 Shopping 68 Family 71 Health & Beauty 76 In the City 79

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2015

rEVIEWS

Dwie Trzecie 27 Aioli 28 Między Ustami 28 Miłość 30

InbAck

Classifieds 85 Map 86 Looking Back 88

Contributors: Piers bright gill boelman-burrows Stuart dowell Maria Mileńko Michał Miszkurka ed Wight Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com Key Account Manager A. Julita Pryzmont jpryzmont@valkea.com Key Account Manager Adam Fogler afogler@valkea.com Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com Subscription 12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. Vat) in Poland. orders can be placed through: insider@warsawinsider.pl Printed by Zakład Poligraficzny teChgraF tel. (17) 225-28-69 VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies. all information ©2015 Warsaw Insider.

on the cover Women’s day and mermaids feature prominently in this issue so, said our cover artist, why not celebrate the two together?

So we have…

(Illustration by Michał Miszkurka)

PhotograPh by ed Wight

If you’re one of those people who

CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN MEN FAY GIANVITO ROSSI MEN KENZO MONCLER RALPH LAUREN SIMONETTA RAVIZZA TOD’S TOM FORD TORY BURCH VALENTINO VICTORIA BECKHAM YVES SALOMON

BABY DIOR DOLCE & GABBANA KIDS DSQUARED2 KIDS KENZO KIDS MONCLER KIDS RALPH LAUREN KIDS TOD’S KIDS

this month...

CONCERT

Kurt Elling 3 March, 20:00 @ Palladium, ul. Złota 9 This Chicago-born jazz vocalist and composer has ten Grammy nominations to his name, with his most recent in 2013 when 1619 Broadway – The Brill Building Project was nominated as Best Jazz Album. The same year he was named International Jazz Artist of the Year at the British Jazz FM Awards.

Tickets from zł. 135 @ eventim.pl

CONCERT

Mount Kimbie 7 March, 22:00 @ Café Kulturalna, Pl. Defilad 1 (PKiN) Regarded as the instigators of the post-dubstep movement, this British electronic duo won critical acclaim for their 2010 debut album Crooks & Lovers. Their last album Cold Spring Fault Less Youth was hailed by Time Out as ‘an enthralling return’.

Tickets from zł. 22 @ biletomat.pl

CONCERT

Asaf Avidan

Editor’s Pick Ballister Defined by their ‘driving grooves, noisy textures and melodic interjections’, this three piece promise a night to remember at Pardon, To Tu. 29 March, Pardon,To Tu, pl.

Grzybowski 12/16. Tickets zł. 30.

14 March, 20:30 @ Stodoła, ul. Batorego 10 Israeli singer-songwriter Asaf Avidan lands in Warsaw as part of an international tour to coincide with the release of Gold Shadow. “A wholly original sound, with songs that are beautifully written and fervently performed,” says Bob Boilen of NPR Music.

Tickets from zł. 99 @ eventim.pl

CONCERT

Devin Townsend Project 16 March @ Stodoła, ul. Batorego 10 Known for his ‘wall of sound’ approach, Townsend’s music has drawn comparisons to Frank Zappa. His latest album, Ziltoid 2, has been described by the Canadian artist as ‘the heaviest thing he’s ever done.’

Tickets from zł. 66 @ livenation.pl

CONCERT

Scott Bradlee 18 March @ Stodoła, ul. Batorego 10 You Tube sensation Scott Bradlee clocked up over eight million hits for

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Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2015

his jazzy interpretation of All About That Bass, with other viral tunes including his doo-wop cover of We Can’t Stop

by Miley Cyrus.

Tickets from zł. 59 @ livenation.pl

CONCERT

Julia Marcell 19 March, 21:00 @ Basen, ul. Konopnickiej 6 Based in Berlin, this Polish singer-songwriter muddles the boundaries between synth-pop, anti folk and baroque pop to produce a unique sound to showcase her mastery of the keyboard and piano.

Tickets from zł. 40 @ eventim.pl

FESTIVAL

Spanish Film Festival 19 March onwards @ various locations The world’s largest overview of Spanish film outside of Spain arrives to Poland, with screenings to be held in seven Polish cities. Warsaw’s the first city on the list, with a program that will include art house cinema, documentaries and more mainstream hits.

For more info, see: manana.pl

CONCERT

Archive

27 March, 20:00 @ Torwar, ul. Łazienkowska 6A Active for over 20 years, London-based Archive released their tenth album – Restriction – at the start of the year.

According to The Telegraph, however, it’s a ‘strangely restricted work’ that leaves listeners ‘craving emotional color’. Decide for yourself.

Tickets from zł. 119 @ eventim.pl

CONCERT

Tokio Hotel 27 March, 19:00 @ Stodoła, ul. Batorego 10 Having shifted over seven million albums Tokio Hotel rank as one of Germany’s most successful global acts in recent times. The Warsaw leg of their world tour is a celebration of their latest album Kings of Suburbia.

Tickets from zł. 375 @ livenation.pl

CONCERT

Yundi & Yundi Li 27 March, 19:30 @ National

Philharmonic, ul. Jasna 5 Eighteen years old at the time, in 2000 pianist Yundi Li became the youngest ever winner of the International Chopin Competition. Warsaw was the scene of his triumph, and the locals have held him close to their hearts ever since – this performance is guaranteed to sellout.

For more info, see: filharmonia.pl

CONCERT

WhoMadeWho 27 March, 21:00 @ Basen, ul. Konopnickiej 6 Formed in 2003, this Danish trio find themselves slotted into the ‘dance punk’ genre, and have played alongside such luminaries as Arisa, Hot Chip, Daft Punk and Soul Wax. The Resident Advisor review site describes their latest album as “FM rock with a certain inherent wistfulness,” and a “step back from the dance floor” for this underrated act.

Tickets from zł. 65 @ ticketpro.pl

CONCERT

CONCERT

29 March, 18:00 @ Torwar, ul. Łazienkowska 6A This lauded Canadian singer has worked with Luc Plamondon, Michel Sardou and Celine Dion, and remains a huge hit on both sides of the Atlantic. His trip to Warsaw promotes his latest studio outing, It’s Magic!

31 March, 20:00 @ Proxima, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 99A This Brooklyn hip hop act associates itself with the Beast Coast movement.

Subject to increasing recognition, their Warsaw appearance will be supported by their New York brethren The Underachievers.

Tickets from zł. 139 @ eventim.pl

Tickets from zł. 79 @ eventim.pl

RUN

CONCERT

29 March, 10:00 @ Most Poniatowskiego Registration is underway but the closure of Łazienkowska Bridge has meant the usual route will not be followed. Runners are therefore urged to check the web for the latest updates.

26 March, 19:00 @ Palladium, ul. Złota 9 This Slovenian avant garde act started out in 1980 enjoying their international breakthrough in 1986 after being championed by the legendary John Peel. Said to have been one of the inspirations behind Rammstein, this group shows no signs of slowing.

Garou

10th Warsaw Half Marathon

For more info, see: pzupolmaraton warszawski.com

Flatbush Zombies

Laibach

Tickets from zł. 65 @ eventim.pl

SPONSORED EVENT

SPRING PICNIC

March 29 Casa dei Bambini, Warsaw Montessori School , ul. Badowska 19

The annual Spring Picnic at the Warsaw Montessori School is an event that aims to inspire: from first glance those who arrive notice the decorations, the scent of the flowers, the families and school children walking in the gardens and then the smiles on each face as they view it all with wonder. This collaboration of traditional, Polish Easter art and activities is clearly a labor of love.

One of the main goals of the picnic is to invite prospective parents to explore the school and the people that make it exactly what it is. It’s also a time for current families and an international crowd to join in the culture and traditions that are unique to the Polish Easter season: all are welcome.

Attractions that await include traditional Polish Easter artisans, pony rides, a climbing wall, sports activities, delicious food, and, of course, an Easter egg hunt!

www.warsawinsider.pl

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in

What’s hot, what’s not: the faces and stories trending around town The bridge in numbers

100 mln Złotys

The amount spent on the bridge’s upkeep in recent years

1,000

Degrees Celsius

The temperatures reached during the fire

1979 The year…

… John Paul II crossed the bridge in a delivery truck / pope mobile

423 Meters

The bridge’s length

144

Firefighters

Battled the blaze local

IllusTrATIon By MArIA MIleńko

Burn one’s Bridges

Warsaw Mayor Hanna Gronkiewicz-Waltz has pledged that Łazienkowska Bridge will reopen no matter what the cost. Flames engulfed a 500 sq/m stretch of the structure on the evening of February 14th, with firefighters only bringing the blaze under control in the early hours of the following day. Dramatic footage captured on the night showed tarmac folding and melting under scorching temperatures. The inferno is thought to have occurred after wooden boards stored under the bridge caught fire, with the flames then spreading further along sections of scaffolding. An investigation is underway to determine if foul play was a factor.

Considered to be one of Warsaw’s key transport arteries, the subsequent closure of the six-lane bridge has led to traffic chaos around town. A series of inspections revealed structural damage to be graver than initially feared, and while City Hall moved quickly to dispel rumors that the bridge is beyond repair, inside sources claim it could be weeks and maybe months till it is ready to reopen. It’s feared that the final repair bill could run to as high as half a billion złoty.

This is not the first time the bridge has faced catastrophe. In 1975, one year after it was opened, a mysterious fire broke out leading local gossips to speculate that the conflagration was the fallout from an ongoing feud between the police and security services. (AW)

60

Meters

The length affected by the fire

28

Meters

The bridge’s width

12 Hours

The time needed to tackle the fire

0

Security Cameras

Monitoring the bridge at the time of the fire www.warsawinsider.pl

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inFront

news

NEON

Lights On

Warsaw’s growing mania for retro-style neon shows no sign of abating. Valentine’s Night saw the unveiling of Paweł Ziomka’s 60’s-style illumination at Port Czerniakowski, while February also witnessed the long-awaited return of the glowing green signage above the Świat Książki bookstore on Solidarności. In an interview with the Wawalove news portal, filmmaker Anna Brzezińska-Czerska claimed neon had now become something of a calling card for the city: “it’s no longer a handful of enthusiasts fighting to save Warsaw’s neon signs,” she said, “this has become a social phenomenon.”

PRAGA

Sleep(ers) Deprivation

The Warsaw Mayor confirmed in February that the contentious Four Sleepers Monument celebrating Polish-Soviet brotherhood will not return to public display. Unveiled after the war, the monument has been decried as a reminder of the Red Army’s impotence during the destruction of Warsaw. Removed from its plinth four years back, over 10,000 residents signed a petition protesting the memorial’s mooted return. “I have no fondness for the monument,” said the Mayor, “and there is no political inclination to return it to Praga – it will not be back.”

Polish Shorts

A snowy owl from a shelter in the Knyszyńska Forest made world headlines after killing its mate in a sexual rage.

A spokesman for the shelter said: “After taking his remains to a vet the male owl was found to have underdeveloped private parts – in other words, he wasn’t a suitable lover, and we assume that after failing to perform she killed him.”

Nineteen-year-old Jan Kurek raised eyebrows after he was elected to head the village council of Poręba Spytkowska. The youngster had hoped for a seat on the council, only to find himself polling a majority. The fledgling politician has promised to attend to urgent calls during high school breaks, and to donate his zł. 270 monthly expenses to children who perform well in school.

It’s been announced that director Roman Polanski will face a court in Kraków that will consider a request to extradite him to the U.S. following a 1977 charge of statutory rape. Polanski accepted his guilt in 1977, but fled the States after serving 42 days. Should the court rule in favor of extraditing him, the Justice Minister will have the power to veto their decision.

WISŁA

Water Wait

Further delays are likely on the Bulwary Wiślane project after it was announced last month that the general contractor, Hydrobudowa Gdańsk, had filed for bankruptcy. Originally slated for completion last summer, the scheme aims to inject life back into Warsaw’s hitherto underutilized riverbank. Following news that bookies are taking bets as to when the second metro line will ever open, the setback has caused further exasperation amongst the Warsaw public.

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Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2015

Trends

A Dark Art

Regarded as a niche within a niche, a rising number of Poles are discovering a new thirst for stout...

L

et’s try a word association game: I say ‘stout’, you say…

Be honest, I bet you’d answer Guinness. Increasingly, however, drinkers are noting that there’s more to stout than Guinness alone. “It’s not bad for a dry stout,” says Marcin Chmielarz, “there’s just not much happening there with the taste.” As one of Warsaw’s top authorities on all things craft, he’s more qualified than most to pass comment.

And the word craft here is key. While stout is believed to have been introduced to Poland at the beginning of the 19th century (while being shipped on its way from Britain to St. Petersburg), it’s only since the brew-olution of 2011 that Poles started seeing the true nature of the black stuff. Marcin, the bar manager of Jedna Trzecia, is well positioned to take-up the story.

“When the craft revolution first happened I knew immediately I simply wouldn’t be able to afford to try everything – so instead, I picked out one drink that I’d pay anything to taste: that was stout.” While that didn’t exactly make him a lone wolf, he found himself in a rather tight circle. “Even now it’s still something of a minority drink,” he says, “we have customers who are really committed to the craft scene but who won’t consider touching a dark beer.”

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Pushed to define a stout Marcin is a little more guarded. “You get so many different sub-categories of porters and stout that it’s hard to give a definitive answer,” he says, “but in general terms a stout is usually darker – pitch black – and will have more burn notes. With porters you’re more likely to find hints of caramel, toffee and nuts.”

The fluctuating nature of the brewing scene has made forming definitions all the more harder. “Of course I like classic stouts,” says Marcin, “but if you want adventure then the modern interpretations are the way to go: it’s a versatile style, and the general rule for brewers is that if it goes with chocolate then it’ll go with stout – that’s why you’re seeing things like chocolate, coffee and chili being added.”

In fact, a surprise twist has become practically essential. “I always look for an ‘X Factor’ when stocking the bar, after all not many people will pay zł. 20 for an ordinary stout, so it’s important it has that something extra. That’s why this year I think we’re going to see more ‘Imperial Stout’ that’s been brewed in whisky, wine and bourbon barrels.”

As the brewer behind the acclaimed Czarny Wdowiec, Marcin is no stranger to more ‘perverted’ takes on the brew. “I wanted to create something extremely bitter and hoppy but dark,” he says. “Czarny Wdowiec is definitely an ‘extreme’ beer, but that’s what we wanted. We wanted to have some fun with it, and what we ended up creating has been lab-tested to be Poland’s most bitter beer.”

Surely though, the brewing scene is reaching critical mass? “It is a bit of a nuthouse right now,” says Marcin, “but I disagree that it’s just a temporary trend – after all, once you have a good craft beer there’s just no way you’re going back to standard Euro Lager. If there is a problem then it’s that the revolution is only limited to big cities – it needs to spread to smaller towns. The trouble there though is money: people are naturally going to pick cheaper brand beers.” And the future of Polish stout? “Who knows,” answers Marcin, “but it’s nice to think that one day we’ll have a brewery that specifically specializes in it.”

PhOTOGrAPh BY kEvIn dEMArIA

inFront

Restaurant Dom Polski invites you

Restauracja Dom Polski ul. Francuska 11 03-906 Warszawa Tel. 22 616 2488 / 22 616 2432 www.restauracjadompolski.pl restauracjadompolski@wp.pl

WOMEN OF WARSAW

CATWALK QUEEN

Hailed for her originality and nonchalant, sophisticated style, Agi Jensen is part of a new breed of fashion designer putting Warsaw on the map…

How did it all start…

I lived abroad for eight years, first in Copenhagen and then Dublin: two distinct cultures with their own sense of fashion. When I returned to live in Warsaw I just couldn’t find the fashions I’d experienced – the shops had nothing I wanted to wear.

Basically, I started sewing my own clothes. One night I invited some friends over to my place for a ‘mini fashion show’ and found that by the end of the night I’d sold nearly all of my creations! So that’s how it began…

Did you have any formal training?

Actually, I studied political science, though I did have experience with the fashion world as both a model and a make-up artist so I was already familiar with the industry.

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Were you always fashion conscious as a child?

I attended ballet school as a child.

From a young age I was always training, I didn’t even know who Michael Jackson was. Instead I grew up listening to Chopin and Tchaikovsky, enjoying things like the smell of the theater. I think those experiences taught me to look at things a little differently.

Describe your style…

I appreciate minimalism and simplicity in design. I think that the people who wear my clothes have a very feminine side but at the same time are also looking to express their inner-selves. I think my clothes are also versatile in that three dresses are enough for your wardrobe – I want to prove you don’t need 25 dresses in

different colors of the rainbow.

Any inspirations in the world of fashion?

I’m not the kind of person who sits in front of Fashion TV; I’m not inspired by other designers, I prefer to listen to my own intuition. Honestly, I don’t really have any icons, I prefer to wear my own clothes: I always say I’m my own best customer!

What are your fashion no-no’s?

For sure I wouldn’t go in for those tight, sexy dresses. I believe you can show your attributes far better by wearing something discreet. Neither would I ever recommend wearing five different designer pieces – you see people like that who think they’re really fashionable, when

in actuality they just look like a Christmas tree. Fine, take one thing maybe, but then combine it with other items. Be discreet I always say, don’t show you’re obsessed with fashion.

What advice would you give to a designer starting out in the industry…

Be true to yourself. Do what you feel. Don’t imitate others and don’t think about sales. You’ve got to feel this from the bottom of your heart. Most importantly, surround yourself with loyal people who have good energy.

Who would you love to see wearing your creations?

I love Halle Berry – without question, she’s the most beautiful woman in the world. I’ve already got lots of Polish celebrities who wear my clothes, but I think I get just as much pleasure from seeing someone on the beach wearing something I designed. The other day I met a woman in hospital who was wearing a coat of mine – that’s a heart-warming feeling.

What are your feelings towards the high street labels?

I understand people buy things from the high street because it’s cheaper, and I recognize that some people can’t afford my designs.

If you use your imagination you can create a good look. Of course, what we don’t know is how the clothes have been manufactured, how many tears are behind that dress. Myself, I only manufacture in Poland using Polish fabrics.

Where is Warsaw fashion compared to other cities?

We’re growing and developing here, and I’m certainly a supporter of Polish design: there’s a lot of potential and talent. It’s hard to compare it to different cities though because everyone has different styles, different wallets… But Copenhagen stands out. Not just in terms of clothes, absolutely everything feels fashionable there. The Danes have a fantastic concept of design: it’s like honey for the eyes!

“I’m not the kind of person who sits in front of Fashion TV; I’m not inspired by other designers, I prefer to listen to my own intuition”

Agi Jensen Design agijensen.com

www.warsawinsider.pl

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WOMEN OF WARSAW not only because of its history but because of its future. It’s got so much going for it. I don’t think I’ll ever enjoy a 100% connection with the city, but that’s not to say I haven’t taken advantage of my time here.

I love getting out and about with my camera. You have to explore.

Nowadays I love Warsaw, I love it for the friends that I’ve made, both expat and Polish.

Is there anything that drives you mad…

Communication can be frustrating.

Even though most young people speak English, and most people are accommodating when they hear your trying to speak the language, there’s always that one person who refuses to listen and just responds with a ‘nie ma’. And there’s public transport – it’s always about pushing, never an excuse me. But that’s a European thing in general!

THE EXPAT CHAT

American-born Joy Ludwig-McNutt moved to Poland two years ago with her husband, and now runs the food and travel blog My Traveling Joys…

You’d previously spent years living in Istanbul. Warsaw must have been a bit of a culture shock…

The weather was the first problem.

It was April 1st, 2013, and we left Istanbul on a beautifully sunny day.

When we landed in Warsaw it was in the middle of a giant snowstorm.

I wanted to cry! But you have to get used to it. The weather is what it is, you can’t change it.

How do the two cities compare?

Obviously they’re hugely different in a historical and cultural sense.

Beyond that, the Turkish people are so much more hospitable, and of course I miss the spices. But everywhere we live I always end up leaving a piece of my heart and Warsaw will be no different – after two years I’m fully settled!

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What did you expect to find in Warsaw…

I did not picture a modern city. I thought it’d be cold, grey and full of depressing communist buildings.

All I really knew about the place was WWII. But it was a case of either moving back to the States or giving Poland a try so my husband and I went for it. The city did play up to stereotype initially, but then it’s a place that takes time. It’s not a city that will immediately blow you away. You have to explore the city, try and find its meaning.

How do you feel about the city now…

I don’t fit in here, but it’s become my home – I feel a bit of an outsider now whenever I return to the States.

Warsaw’s an interesting place,

You blog prolifically about food – what are your thoughts on Warsaw in that regard…

As a pastry chef food is my life! Back in Turkey the restaurants were obviously great at Turkish food, but here it feels definitely more diverse. I love that there’s so many restaurants here, there’s always something opening or closing. Of course, I love the local markets and the emphasis on local produce. But if there’s anything I miss about the States it’s a slice of New York pizza after a big night out!

You also travel a lot across the country – what do you think?

Poland is so underrated by the outside world and I don’t think enough is done to promote it. For example, I was blown away by Wrocław. It’s so much more genuine than Kraków and yet there’s hardly anything online about it.

What advice would you give to newbies moving to PL? You can’t live in a bubble. You have to get out there, find your place, learn Polish. It’s not been easy, and I’ve shed a lot of tears in the process, but you have to get out of your comfort zone to bring the most out of this country.

My Traveling Joys www.mytravelingjoys.com

2014 al. Solidarności 129/131, tel. 536 335 333, open daily 12:00 -22:00 More info: www.facebook.com/madraskuchniaindyjska

WOMEN OF WARSAW WI: How has the role of women changed in Polish society since you started out in business?

BM: Women are more educated now, they have higher expectations and more ambition to realize their dreams. Poland’s changed a lot in the last 25 years, but it’s important to remember that even under the previous system most women had to work as well so as to provide their family with a certain style of living – so to a lesser degree women did have the chance to realize themselves.

What challenges did you face as a woman?

I studied electronics so from the beginning I was in a very unique situation: in class there were three women and three hundred men!

The biggest challenge I found was to be treated seriously, but as soon as I proved that I was on the same mental footing then all boundaries disappeared. In terms of my career, not once have I been made to feel uncomfortable; I’ve never thought of myself as ‘the woman in the workplace’.

Is there a difference between men and women when it comes to leadership?

Everyone has a different style of leadership, no two people are alike. I have a coach’s certificate in emotional intelligence, and I’d say if there was a difference between men and women then the difference is found there. Women are more likely to show their emotions, but providing they can manage those efficiently then that can be ultimately beneficial: emotions drive actions and help in problem solving.

TOP TOMATO

Formerly the Vice President of Polkomtel and PGE, Bogusława Matuszewska abandoned the corporate rat race to launch Totomato, a catch-all operation for all things healthy: a restaurant, store and workshop…

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Looking back on your career, is there anything you’d do differently?

Not at all. I believe the person I am now is a direct result of the decisions I’ve made – and that includes the mistakes I’ve made along the way.

You’ve held some top corporate posts in the past – what made you leave those behind and launch Totomato?

In the past I was always responsible for sales and transformation and building the optimization process.

It seemed that the last few years had been spent cutting things: costs,

“I believe the person I am now is a direct result of the decisions I’ve made – and that includes the mistakes I’ve made along the way” better’. Finally I asked myself, what’s more important in life? I’d had enough of cutting, I wanted to create something.

What’s the philosophy behind it?

This isn’t just a health shop, it’s a lifestyle. I want people to stop and think a little about themselves, to meditate a little. With Totomato I want people to realize that everything has meaning, that we live to realize ourselves – that’s the whole concept.

What qualities have helped you achieve what you have?

Having a deep and true engagement with what I do. It’s important to remember that you are not playing a game, you have to stay true to your values.

Totomato www.totomato.pl ul. Piękna 28/34 (near Plac Konstytucji)

www.warsawinsider.pl

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Women of WArSAW

A swiss ACCount

A beautifully sensitive paean to the quirks of Warsaw life, Fanny Vaucher’s Pilules Polonaises (Polish Pills) began life as a blog, before evolving into a book. We speak to the Swiss-born artist to hear her side of the story…

What was the idea behind the blog?

When I came to Warsaw I was fresh out of art school – drawing was something I did every day. Anyway, I was so full of general bewilderment that I started to jot down my questions on paper. It was my way of dealing with the shock of this new environment. It became my way of creating a link to it, taming it by bit by bit, pill by pill. I started posting these drawings and texts on a blog as I thought my friends and family back home would enjoy them, but it became clear pretty quickly that the people who liked them the most were those with a link to Poland – be they Poles or foreigners. It seemed they shared a lot of the experiences that I had thought were unique to me. This was never

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a grand plan, it all developed spontaneously and it was beautiful how strongly I bonded to the city. I made great friends through this project and it had a massive impact on how I feel about Warsaw.

The book celebrates the everyday person of Warsaw. Who would you say is the city’s unsung hero?

Yes, it does, and that was also my goal, to present Warsaw through people I could relate to, rather than famous kings on horses... Well, Warsaw’s unsung hero would be a woman. As a feminist I have always been attached to unsung heroines and here there are so many. There are those from the war that deserve more recognition, such as Marysia Eisenstadt, and then there are the

completely unknown ones like my old neighbors in Wola who were just teenagers during the Uprising. Their stories remain unheard.

What challenges did you face?

I feel lame saying it but the only thing that drove me crazy the first year I was here was the long grey sky in the winter. It felt endless: like a cooking lid over the cold city. Sometimes I would wake up and wish for nightfall just to avoid seeing another short grey day. Apart from that, the only things that would annoy me where my own flaws: language failures, feeling shy among trendy crowds, etc.

The book touches on complex themes of abandonment, heritage, development and gentrification.

Where do you see Warsaw’s future?

I’m very sensitive to ‘old’ architecture, which here mostly means anything that’s pre-war. It’s always hard for me to pass these red-brick tenements that have often purposely been left to decompose in order to clear the ground for new skyscrapers. I can’t accept this logic. We’re even seeing it with some of the more modern buildings, e.g. Sezam. To me there’s something wild and reckless about the whole situation, and I think the people of Warsaw will one day regret this destruction.

“...there’s something wild and reckless about the whole situation, and I think the people of Warsaw will one day regret this destruction”

There’s a wonderful pill called Whose Afraid of Small Furnished Flats: so what was your first Polish flat like…

The first one I stayed in was my boyfriend’s flat, which was more a wooden cube than a flat. I’d never seen anything like it. The only things that weren’t covered in wood were the bed and the fridge – I’d purposefully focus on them! The girl who owned the place was my age and had revamped the flat this way. When my boyfriend mentioned possibly painting it white she couldn’t believe her ears. Because of this the style of flat furnishings became a real curiosity to me, learning what people of other backgrounds, ages, class, etc. considered to be nice and homey.

What has Poland taught you?

One thing that makes Poland really special for me is that it looks mostly the same. But while there’s nothing hugely exotic about it it’s so very different. Sometimes I wish I looked ‘more foreign’ so the natives would be more forgiving for not understanding their way! Just thinking about how the war and post-war forged the Polish identity, their tastes and aesthetics, their dreams and romanticism, even their sense of humor… It’s something I’ve tried to understand but it’s just too different.

Therefore, I’d define my experiences here as a time of learning to be open to others. I’ve not really lived anywhere else outside of Switzerland so I subconsciously assumed everyone was like that – I know that sounds naïve but I accept that. Poland taught me a lot about myself, and I’d say I’m even grateful for the harder moments: I like to think that it all made me a more empathetic person.

Do you have a favorite pill?

Oh my, I’m the kind of person whose never satisfied with what I’ve done so to have a favorite one…

That said, what gave me the most pleasure was drawing birds: the hooded crows, the jackdaws – what smart companions to have! And I loved the vegetation: the banks of the Wisła, the markets, etc. I can

never get enough of that. Warsaw can be such a green city. It’s a marvel in the spring when the grey disappears behind the young, green colors.

Pilules Polonaises (Polish Pills) Published by Fundacja Bęc Zmiana and available in cult bookstores around town. For details of her work see: pilulespolonaises.blogspot.com www.warsawinsider.pl

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MERMAIDS

The Mermaid’s Song There is no escape – Warsaw’s mermaid is everywhere you look. This month, the Insider examines the root of this city’s obsession… BY ALEX WEBBER | PHOTOS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

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Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2015

W

ith over 300 kilometers of land mass separating Warsaw from the sea, you might wonder just why the mermaid has been adopted by the capital to serve as its mascot. Well, there’s a few legends out there that attempt to shed light on this, with some claiming that it was a mermaid that once came to the aid of Prince Kazimierz. Having been separated from the rest of his hunting party, the Prince found himself lost deep in the marshland that once spanned the region. Luckily for him a mermaid materialized out of the bog and guided him to safety by firing burning arrows into the evening sky. Overcome with gratitude, the Prince decided to found Warsaw and adopt the mermaid as its symbol.

Other versions of this story exist, with some elaborations going as far as to claim the Warsaw mermaid has a twin sister in Copenhagen (yes, that one) – for their part, the Danes tend to downplay this tenuous link. So with all these conflicting stories and subtle embellishments it’s not too much of a surprise to find that official tour guides have opted to stick to one story in particular…

An abridged version goes thus: having flipped her way down from the Baltic, our heroine was heading down the Wisła when she stopped for a rest on the riverbank.

“This place is alright,” she thought, and decided to linger around. Unbeknownst to her at the time, the nearest settlement would later grow to become Warsaw. But whilst she was happy, the local fishermen were not. Each morning they’d head down to work only to find their nets tangled and their catch released. A vigilante group was formed and set a trap to ambush the perpetrator who, as you’ve probably guessed, transpired to be the mermaid.

However, plans to punish her quickly went awry. Why? Because they all fell in love. Spellbound by her voice, the fishermen decided they’d be far better off living in harmony with the singing mermaid. But news of this local celebrity traveled fast, and it wasn’t long till she found herself the target of a stalker. Realizing he could earn a mint by forcing her to perform at traveling fairs, a wealthy merchant hatched a plot to kidnap her. A rescue party was assembled and, attracted by her plaintive calls for water, soon found the mermaid held captive in a barn. On being freed the grateful damsel promised the fishermen to guard their town whenever it was under threat. It’s for this reason that the Warsaw mermaid is usually depicted wielding a sword and shield.

Now, suspend your disbelief that a mermaid incapable of defending herself should be installed as the honorary defender of the town, and focus on other points instead.

For instance, that the earliest depictions of the Warsaw mermaid actually show it to be a bloke: one with the legs of a chicken… By 1459, however, royal seals show that the mermaid had slowly started to assume feminine characteristics and the doorway of St. John’s Cathedral in the Old Town is decorated with varying representations of the mermaid’s evolution: all the way from her early days as a half-dragon / half-man boobed thing to her incarnation as a feisty stunner.

It is, perhaps, how people have chosen to interpret her looks that is the most compelling aspect of the mermaid’s story. Most famous of all is probably the statue found in the Rynek. Designed by Konstanty Hegel, it first appeared in the Old Town square in 1855, but was relocated with such

frequency that locals nicknamed it ‘the walking statue’.

In 2008 it was finally decided to retire the original to the Historical Museum and replace it with a faithful copy.

Another favorite of photographers is that found on the Stanisława Markiewicz viaduct at the bottom of ul. Karowa.

Opened in 1904, this curvy, winding street has an ornate elegance and finds itself crowned by a mermaid that brings to mind a Manga character, what with her sultry look and curvy blade. Yet for sheer defiance and girl power poise, it is the statue at the mouth of Świętokrzyski Bridge that wins our vote. Cast in bronze, it’s alleged to be the last monument to be unveiled in Warsaw before the Nazi occupation. The sculptor, Ludwik Nitschow, used a 23-year old poetess, Krystyna Krahelska, as his model, though it’s been suggested he used considerable artistic license to beautify the work. Serving as a medic in the Home Army, Krahelska was shot on the first day of the Warsaw Uprising and died the next day. The statue, meanwhile, just about survived though 34 bullet holes can still be noted.

“ The earliest depiction of the mermaid actually shows it to be a bloke – one with the legs of a chicken...”

While it is these three monuments that are the best known, there’s simply no escaping the mermaid and her likeness. Looking more gregarious than her twins around town, the one at Królikarnia ditches the sword in favor of what’s either a bugle or a goblet of wine – whichever it is she’s having a good time. At the other end of the scale, prowl about the epic Żelazna Brama tower blocks behind Hala Mirowska to find Warsaw’s saddest mermaid.

Unveiled in 1972, it was the only decorative element to be added to the housing estate. Alas, she looks pretty abject with her broken shield and overgrown birdbath.

It would be wrong to presume Warsaw’s icon is just remembered in stone. For years she adorned the badge of the Syrena car. Produced in Poland from 1957 until 1972, the first batch of this nippy motor came with a wooden framework. Yet not all of them were a catastrophe. In 1960 test models of the Syrena Sport were unleashed for test drive. Dubbed ‘the most beautiful car ever manufactured in Poland’ they never saw mass-production after party leader Władsyław Gomułka personally intervened to put the brakes on the project. Deemed too bourgeois for his taste, only a few models survive, among them one to be found in the Palace of Culture’s Museum of Technology.

As lamentable as that is, for ‘the best mermaid you never saw’ then you should listen to this. During his 1948 trip to Warsaw Picasso was taken on a tour of a model housing estate in Koło. Surprising his hosts he climbed a ladder and drew a giant hammer waving mermaid. “My God it was huge,” reported one witness, “her bosoms were like two balloons.” Soon after the completion of the apartment a couple moved in but grew increasingly irritated by the number of fans wanting a glimpse of this private Picasso.

At their wits end, they hired a handyman who obliterated all trace. Oh well, it was only a Picasso. www.warsawinsider.pl

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MERMAIDS

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“ Appearing in the Rynek in 1855, the mermaid was relocated with such frequency the locals nicknamed it the walking statue�

www.warsawinsider.pl

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LANGUAGE

Learn Polish in 20 Years!

It’s certainly not easy, but, like any European language, Polish can be learned. But how?

Why is it said to be so difficult? And is it worth learning? BY STUART DOWELL | ILLUSTRATION BY MARIA MILENKO

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“ Wouldn’t you prefer to sound like a Chopin nocturne rather than a cheap drunk on the piano hitting all the wrong notes? ”

W

hen I arrived in Warsaw, English seemed to me a brutish tongue, spoken with grim determination by Poles as if it were the oxygen not so much of economic opportunity but of survival in the post-transformation chaos.

Polish, on the other hand, danced an exquisite ballet, buzzing and hissing in melancholic beauty. Warsaw appeared to me as a real-life crossword puzzle; like in a Hollywood movie, language conundrums jumped out of billboards and shop signs, challenging me to break their secret code.

I enjoy telling Poles that back home in England we say that the Poles are the most intelligent people in Europe.

Why, they ask. Because you speak Polish! The beam of pride that this white lie always evokes reflects the fact that Poles themselves know that their language is jolly difficult.

In fact, it is said that children don’t become fluent until they are 16 years old.

But why is it so difficult? There are three main reasons: cases, cases and, well… cases. There are seven all together and their application means that each noun and adjective has to change its ending according to how it is used. This system of declensions is multiplied by the three main genders: male, female and neuter, as well as the male animate and male virile genders that are often a tough concept for foreigners to grasp. All this means that there are at least seventeen ways to say the number two in Polish!

Some people say that comparing the complexity of Polish to other European languages is like comparing Classic Greek to Modern Greek. Indeed, the Czechs started simplifying their case system about a thousand years ago. On the other hand, Polish compares favourably with Finnish and Hungarian, which have around 20 cases each.

One thing to be thankful for, though, is that Polish is written in the Roman alphabet, a result of Poland’s adoption of Roman Catholicism. The downside is that this created the awkward and baffling consonant clusters, which we can see in the famous tongue twister ‘W Szczebrzeszynie chrząszcz brzmi w trzcinie’. Saint Cyril was definitely on to something when he came up with his Cyrillic alphabet, as it is perfectly designed for Slavic languages.

If Polish words seem alien and impenetrable, you can take comfort from the fact that there are very few uniquely Polish words. All Europeans share many words that come from Proto-Indo-European, which was spoken as far back as 2000 BC across an area stretching from Portugal to India. Take the word for house in Polish, dom, and compare it to the English words dom-estic and dom-icile and the connection should be clear. The Latin word castellum obviously gives us castle in English, but after leaving Rome it met up with some Germanics and became kasztel, took a quick detour in Czech where it changed to kostel and then popped up in Polish as the word for church - kościół. As you grow your vocabulary, connections and relationships with words you already know appear more frequently.

Ok, so it’s clear that Polish isn’t the easiest language to learn, but it is still well within the capabilities of most people to do so. After all, a humble Yorkshire man such as myself managed to, so why not you. If the complicated grammar puts you off, think about it this way: all of the concepts in Polish grammar are easy to understand; there are just a lot of them. To master Polish grammar you just have to learn a few hundred grammar facts. It sounds daunting, but think about it: most people have vast databases of facts in their heads about things like sport and music, so why not Polish grammar?

But where to get these facts from and how to consolidate them? Unfortunately, for people who have non-Slavic mother tongues, it’s going to be difficult to just absorb the language by hearing it spoken around you. That means you’re going to have to study books. My advice would be to buy any Polish for beginners book with lots of exercises – Colloquial Polish and Teach Yourself Polish are good ones – and work through it completing all the exercises. Then go and get another book for beginners and do the same and simply keep going until there are no more beginners books in the shop.

You might hear the opinion that you don’t have to worry too much about grammar because Poles will understand what you are saying without it. But with something as exquisite and delightful as the Polish language, wouldn’t you prefer to sound like a Chopin nocturne rather than a cheap drunk on the piano hitting all the wrong notes?

The main advantage for Warsaw-based Polish learners is that the language is all around us. This creates plenty of interesting opportunities for real life practice. Of course, you can just approach people in the street and ask them questions, but there are all sorts of people who are paid to sit patiently and talk to you for free. One of my favourite situations used to be discussing holiday options with travel agents. Other good places include museums, galleries and any shop that sells stuff that you’re interested in, whether it be camera equipment or handmade soap.

Be careful though. I remember practicing the use of the genitive with words of foreign origin when I wanted to buy the computer magazine Chip. I received a very disapproving look when I asked the kiosk lady “Czy ma Pani może Chip’a”! (if you need that clarified, ask someone familiar with bawdy language).

A frequent question is how long will it take to become reasonably fluent? That’s a tough one to answer. I’ve been studying Polish for close to 20 years and often have the impression that I’ve only scratched the surface of the language. Indeed, as Isaac Bashevis Singer said: “Our knowledge is an island in a great ocean of ignorance”.

However, if studying Polish becomes a daily habit, even a foreign-language adverse Brit, as I was, should reach a reasonable level of fluency within 2-3 years. The main thing is not to waste time and just get stuck in – do roboty! www.warsawinsider.pl

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LISTINGS RESTAURANTS 33 CAFES & WINE BARS 59 NIGHTLIFE 62 SHOPPING 68 FAMILY 71 HEALTH & BEAUTY 76 IN THE CITY 79

The Sweet Escape

With many of Warsaw’s pastry parlors choosing to reference the imperial age, there’s something fresh and vibrant about Odette. Almost holistic in its ambience, the obstacle-free interior exploits aspects of space and light, causing attention to naturally fall on the long, sleek counter that occupies one end. It’s here that Piotr Chylarecki’s sweet creations glimmer behind glass like precious little gems.

Constructed in the adjoining ‘food lab’, these are desserts fit to grace a fine dining moment.

Odette

PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE BY KEVIN DEMARIA. OPPOSTE BY ALEX WEBBER

ul. Górskiego 6/07

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REVIEWS

Standing On A Crossroad?

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A new face takes Dwie Trzecie forward…

ard to believe I know, but it’s not that long back that Wilcza / Poznańska was something of a broken shell, its sleazy undercurrent characterized by shadows, street walkers and pot-holed paving. There were times you weren’t sure if the war had just ended. Now, you wouldn’t recognize it. Having evolved into a very real hotspot, it’s become not just a cauldron of nightlife, but of life in general: they’re all here, from quirky independent stores to edgy restaurants that are the talk of the blogs.

All this considered, you’d think there’s no such thing as a bad location here. Clearly though, there is. You see, even in the dark days there was always a restaurant standing at the crossroads – the trouble was it was never the same one. Over the years I can remember an Italian restaurant, a Greek, some fusion-style bar and an Indian. God knows what may have come before. No surprise then that for a time some people spoke of bad juju, a curse. Now, however, there’s a new school of thought: maybe the previous tenants just weren’t any good.

In the past year this theory has gathered steam. That’s because of the efforts of Dwie Trzecie, a modern eatery that has caused ripples across town. Opened last spring, news of what was going on here quickly fanned around Warsaw. Further exposure was gained when chef Marcin Jabłoński impressed on the Top Chef TV show. All good so far, right? Not so fast. Next thing we knew, Jabłoński had gone. Vanished.

Yet while losing a chef of this caliber would be a blow for any restaurant, Dwie Trzecie have taken the bruising well and come out of their corner fighting. And credit for that goes to the Grzegorz Nowakowski, the new man with the keys to the pantry.

A product of the Amber Room assembly line (just how many chefs has this restaurant rolled out now?), Nowakowski is fast proving a

shrewd signing and a popular appointment – as I take my seat I overhear a local foodie gushing about the chef to an attentive foreign visitor.

This bodes well, I think to myself.

Among Nowakowski’s initiatives is a ‘fish market’ held each Wednesday and Thursday, with the specialized menu allowing diners to feast on fish rare to Poland. But today is Saturday, so I’m out of luck. Instead I’ve got the standard menu, a concise affair that uses terse language: latterini / semolina / saffron aioli reads one entry for the starters.

I’m not in a starter mood, so instead launch straight into mains: guinea fowl. It’s a good tender bird with a subtle hint of sweet and a pleasing gamey taste. Accompanying it are deft little blobs and smears of garlic and coffee puree, not to mention a couple of quail eggs that sit like pretty baubles. The black slate has plenty of action happening without ever being too complicated. Success.

For dessert I’m offered mascarpone, halva or fondant and immediately pick the latter. It’s nice and squidgy, with the thick chocolate ooze counter-balanced by a light orange and chili foam. I’m charmed, and it seems I’m not the only one. Mr. Foodie on the next table is having palpitations over the octopus and from what I can gather his guest is as well. The guests are pleased and the staff seem so as well. Which, actually, is another point to make. It’s not just the menu that’s well executed but the environment itself. The staff are faultless, flirty even, and the place a beauty: a thin L-shape with tall, slit windows, light woods, exposed brick and draftsman’s lamps. It is a restaurant to enjoy, a place that makes you happy. (AW) Dwie Trzecie

ul. Wilcza 50/52, tel. 22 623 0290, dwietrzecie.waw.pl www.warsawinsider.pl

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REVIEWS Big Ideas From Mini And a little bit of engine trouble…

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f someone asks me for my favorite breakfast then I have no hesitation: Aioli on Świętokrzyska. Just talking about it usually makes me hit it up after a few days for their meaty egg plate of sausages & bacon, nicely grilled tomatoes, freshly baked bread and dipping portion of house aioli. Not convinced? Then let me tell you the plates are as big as car wheels and the price is zł. 12.90. The wife loves it as well, usually ordering the Hawaiian brioche: shrimp, guacamole, pineapple, chili jam and coriander.

That said it’s a Jekyll & Hyde experience – come evening, good luck, the place becomes a zoo. Same goes for their new venture on pl. Konstytucji. “Inspired by Mini” claims their tagline (an allusion to the Miniinfluenced design), though there times you wonder if that’s a reference to all the elbows in your face – it’s a big, industrial venue, but there are moments when the scrum at the bar threatens to spill into blood sport.

Then there’s the staff, a despondent bunch who seem distracted and disorganized. As for the food, it’s enjoyable, just totally formulaic – couldn’t they have tried something new? The ongoing humanization of pl. Konstytucji is to be applauded, but with this new Aioli I’m moved to think of those cavernous Times Square eateries that lure in tourists for the fake New York night.

But if I sound like I’m complaining then there are points of redemption. Actually, one: tankovy beer. A Czech innovation, this crafty storing system preserves the beers freshness, ensuring that your Pilsner is every bit as crisp as if you were ordering in the brewery. All of a sudden, Aioli’s numerous annoyances blur in the rear view mirror. (KD) Aioli Inspired by Mini

pl. Konstytucji 5, open 9:00-24:00, aioliinspiredbymini.pl

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X Factor Saves The Day

Blips and bumps but potential aplenty…

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apas Bar & Restaurant: so declares their Facebook. On my visit though, it doesn’t appear to be either. For starters, well, there aren’t any. I ask for a menu, and what is given to me is a heavily pixelated print-out of five or so dishes. Okay. As for the drinks menu, I’m told, “our bar tender is working on it.” So, guesswork time. On a wild impulse I order Bloody Mary. It’s fine, but that’s about it. For a place that harps on about ‘craft bar tending’ it’s disappointing: no soothing thickness, no spicy kick. Maybe, I mull, it’s my fault for being so prosaic. For food, I order steak. The cut is good and enhanced by a silky drizzle of demi-glace. It just feels there’s something missing. That applies to the potato gratin, as well. I want it crisp and creamy, yet instead it’s like wax.

Pushed to give it a mark, I’d score the food a six or seven out of ten.

For the most part it feels technically accomplished and you can tell, too, there’s been no shortcutting on ingredients. It’s just, how should I put this, at no time do my pleasure centers judder. It’s something to be filed under ‘another decent meal’ and then quickly forgotten. But here’s the small print. Despite the lack of fireworks and fanfare, there’s something immensely likeable about MU. Something that makes me hang around long after the plate is cleared. It’s a quiet day but there’s something enjoyable about being here. The design reminds me of a classic Prague bordello set against a London Soho bar, and I’m happy to sit about flicking through a book while basking in the shadows. When I do eventually leave, it’s with a curious conflict raging inside: I’ve had a good time yet I’m not sure why.

So here’s the crux: there is x factor here, one that eludes many hangouts, and with a little fine-tuning then you suspect its potential should be realized. (AW) Między Ustami

Mokotowska 33/35, tel. 530 323 325

Bear Watch

Diverting from her haute couture roots, Viola Spiechowicz’s Wake Up The Bear label marries concepts of comfort with style. Inspired by the romance and demands of travel, Spiechowicz’s designs are a celebration of natural fabrics and practical considerations: collars transform into hoods and sleeves into gloves. Mixing bold colors with playful patterns, the Spring/Summer collection finds a middle ground between form and function, ultimately presenting clothes that are both wearable and stylish for your seasonal jaunts.

Wake Up The Bear

ul. Mokotowska 41, wakeupthebear.com

www.warsawinsider.pl

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REVIEWS

Where Love Lives

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Warsaw goes giddy with the creation of Miłość

here’s something that creeps me out about the word ‘concept’.

It’s slick, corporate and brings to mind greasy executives plotting a campaign for Honda. So when I hear Miłość described as a concept bar I flinch. Needlessly so, it turns out. While there are some people who would consider it a concept bar, myself, I’m thinking of it as more of an ‘ideas space’ – for that’s what it is, a collection of big ideas under one roof.

Firstly, there’s the bar, the design of which was a collaboration between the Projekt Praga studio and creative director Adam Tarasiuk. It’s stunning: concrete slabs, a vertical wall of greenery and a DJ platform that doubles as a kitchen for their weekend brunches. That’s Jakub and Zofia you see working the menu, and their edgy creations are com-

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plimented by the home-baking of a guy called Pączek (!). The upstairs mezzanine is the best spot for voyeurs, and it’s here that you learn there’s more to Miłość than meets the eye: a series of rooms unravel beyond, revealing a Super Salon bookstore, a Portuguese deli and a branch of Barberian, the go-to barbers for lumbersexual men. It is ultimately the bar that is the center force though, and it’s here you’ll find one-of-a-kind bottled cocktails that use natural ingredients, not to mention the full offer from the Perła brewery. Opened in January, it hasn’t taken long for Warsaw to fall in love with Miłość.

Miłość Kredytowa 9

ul. Kredytowa 9, open 9:00-6:00

A Woman’s Essentials

Find two sides to GaliLu’s coin: first, as a fashion store (Mokotowska 28), trading upmarket labels from the likes of Oyuna and Enzo Firenze. Its second function is that of a perfumery (Mokotowska 26) specializing in scents, bath and body, skincare and hair products. Filled with rare find fragrances, unguents, balms and lotions – for men and women – it’s just about the ultimate stop for a little something special.

GaliLu ul. Mokotowska 26, galilu.pl Wonders by GaliLu ul. Mokotowska 28, wonders.com.pl

www.warsawinsider.pl

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Events Picnic

Hunt down the Easter bunny this March and swing by for the annual Montessori open day and picnic!

See p. 5

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restaurants KEY

New VegaN HauNts

$ zł. 30 (per main) $$ zł. 30-55 $$$ over zł. 55 New listings are in RED

Best of Warsaw Award Winner

Vegan Pizza (ul. Poznańska 7) while the place lacks effort on the design front (a plain room with local radio piped around), the pizza is pretty good. there’s 24 to pick from, and while it’s not love at first bite, there’s a tendency to get strangely hooked by the new tastes and alien sensations. Definitely an interesting departure from the high street pizzerias. Recommended: Italian Madness with its melty cheese and herby bursts of pesto.

african american asian balkan & russian british burgers cheap eats cooking schools cuban french german greek & turkish indian international italian japanese & sushi latin & mexican middle eastern polish steak houses thai

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Insider writers do not accept any form of payment in return for favorable reviews.

african Jamniczek (ul. Marszałkowska 68/70) this small dual-level nook specializes in vegan hot dogs and healthy non-alc cocktails. Foregoing factory floor snips and tails, principle fillings include millet, tofu and spinach. taste-wise it does well, but you can’t help but feel they’ve got the proportions all wrong: heaps of salad, massive baguettes, but only a thin little ‘dog’ in the middle.

café Baobab (H4) ul. Francuska 31, tel. 22 617 4057, open 10:00-23:00, www.cafebaobab.pl The work of former basketball player Aziz Seck, Baobab brings the tastes of Senegal to Saska Kępa. The mafe yap – beef stewed in peanut sauce – is as interesting as it sounds, and best enjoyed during their bi-monthly Saturday night concerts. $ www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / restaurants La MaMa Africa (C1) ul. Andersa 23, tel. 22 226 3505, open Mon 13:00-24:00; Tue-Thu 11:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-last guest; Sun 12:00-23:00, www. lamama.eu Things we like: African Star beer and the traditional stews. Things we don’t like: the goat meat. But that’s not a criticism of the cooking, rather an admission we don’t like goats in general – dead or alive. Those who don’t fancy experimenting with gizzards and heads make do with dishes like yam porridge or sweet and spicy coconut rice. It’s the very definition of casual, and something of a focal point for Warsaw’s African community. $$

american Blue Plate Chicken (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18, tel.

794 494 477, open 7:00-3:00 The aim at Blue Plate is to combine slow food with soul food: a big call that goes to plan. There’s not too much choice, but points go to their healthy take on British breakfast, not to mention their homage to all things chicken: wings, strippers and assorted bits and bobs.

Looking completely casual and at ease with itself, this little nook (small bar downstairs, seats crammed in upstairs), is exactly what Warsaw needs: simple, consistent food and natural ingredients served at moderate prices. $ Brooklyn Restaurant & Bar (C4) Al. Jana Pawła II 18 (Rondo ONZ), tel. 22 114 3434, open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-23:00 Upstairs it’s a burger joint, one of Warsaw’s best. Downstairs gets a bit more creative, with a modern American menu presented in a monochrome basement space filled with pics of Brooklyn Bridge.

We’ve heard stories of big changes behind the scenes – we’ll be back next issue with the full story. $$ Champions Sports Bar (D5) Marriott Hotel, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 5119, open 12:00-24:00, www. champions.pl While the concept and style look dated, there’s no faulting the attention to detail – wherever you look (aside from under the table), there’s a TV. The heavy décor brings to mind the trans-Atlantic sports bars of the 90s, with glinting trophies, whirring machines, clacking pool tables and a cacophony of commentaries. Hell, there’s even a boxing ring. But you can’t fault their

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consistency: the food is always on-point, the staff are pro, while the generous floor plan makes it suitable for unwieldy groups of large and loud lads. $$ Hard Rock Café (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, open daily 9:00-24:00, www.hardrockcafe. pl Instantly recognizable by the giant neon guitar outside, Hard Rock has a pierced staff of skater boys and rock girls and a menu that is, if nothing else, completely reliable. Peruse rock’n’roll swag that includes Joplin’s blouse, Prince’s guitar and Shakira’s pants. $$ Someplace Else (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6710, open Mon-Thu 12:00-01:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 12:00-24:00, www. someplace-else.pl Favoring a stark concrete look, SPE were once a legend of 90s/00s Warsaw. Things have tamed down since that ex-pat heyday, but this remains a noteworthy choice for live MOR rock and zippy Tex Mex food. $$ T.G.I. Friday’s (B3) al. Jana Pawła II 29, tel. 22 653 8360, open Mon & Tue 11:00-23:00; Wed-Sat 11:0024:00; Sun 12:00-23:00, www.tgifridays.pl/ warszawa The steaks are a miss-and-miss affair, and even the burgers can’t compare to Warsaw’s armada of burgeries. And the interiors are just as you’d remember: crass, vulgar and stuck in the 90s. Why do people bother? $$

asian Bliss Restaurant (D2) Rynek Mariensztacki, tel. 22 826 3210, open daily 12:00-22:00, www.blissrestaurant.pl Longevity aside, Bliss (alive since ’95) boast classically cliche interiors that make dramatic use of dragons and buddhas. Inconsistent accuse some, though you’ll struggle to find better Chinese-style ribs. $$ Canton (B2) ul. Smocza 1, tel. 22 838 3823, open daily 12:00-22:00, www.canton.warszawa.pl Here’s what Chinese restaurants used to look like in the days of Bruce Lee: filled with dragons and lanterns, this place is an outright assault on your sensory system. Wokking away for over a decade, it’s actually not a bad place if you want an MSG booster. The Gong Bao chicken gets approval. $$

Cesarski Pałac (D2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 9707, open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 12:3023:00; Sun 12:30-22:00, www.cesarskipalac.com A rouge tinted Chinese restaurant whose design even incorporates a footbridge. Widely acclaimed, this 18-year-old restaurant combines Sichuan and Cantonese cuisine to serve a variety of dishes in an elegant backdrop. The Dim Sum are something else. $$ China Garden ul. Kazachska 1, tel. 22 241 1010, open daily 12:00-22:00, www.chinagarden.pl Bull’s testicles boiled with soy sprouts. Goose jaws.

Stewed bull’s penis with radish. Ah, these are meals for the brave. Allegedly the first Jiangsu restaurant in Warsaw, the tastes here are indeed unique. The China Garden isn’t the Imperial Palace, but the décor of straightbacked chairs and densely constructed wood tables casts an aura of formality. No lounging about here; serious eating is afoot! On the whole the dishes are delicate and delicious, and there are more cautious choices. $$ Du-Za Mi-Ha (D4) ul. Widok 16, tel. 22 447 2424, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-22:00 A compact Vietnamese joint noted for fresh, healthy nem filled with crunchy, perky fibers.

The pho, on the other hand, is disappointing – according to one reader, “awful”. Prices begin at around zł. 10 and don’t go far north of zł. 20. You get what you pay for. $ Papaya (E4) ul. Foksal 16, tel. 22 826 1199, open 12:00-24:00, www.papaya.waw.pl A place of precise lines and slick finishes, Papaya has a varied menu that uses influences from all over Asia, though particularly Thailand. But the star attraction is Preecha Wongsomboon, a Thai chef who fuses cookery with cabaret from behind a teppanyaki grill – his skills draw gasps. But between the honking horns and nifty knife work it becomes clear this is no novelty show: the food is top notch. $$ Patera (C4) ul. Świętokrzyska 36, tel. 535 333 123, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00; Sun 11:00-23:00, www.patera.com.pl The center pin is a semi-circular bar, above which lamps hang from a ceiling made out

listings / restaurants of old Coca-Cola crates. There’s palm fronds, mismatching seats, cheerful colors, exposed pipes and industrial chains. Sacks of Haruka rice adorn one end, and on the other there’s floor-to-ceiling windows. It feels right, as does the food – a confident combination of sushi and Thai. We ordered fried beef, and were dealt a generous portion full of pleasing, punchy tastes, sticky rice and a deep, aromatic sauce. Just as good is the green tea ice cream, both cleansing and delicious. $$ Pekin Duck ul. Drawska 29A, tel. 22 412 8988, open 12:00-22:00, www.pekinduck.pl Looks like a typical Chinese – i.e., like a 1980s New Year’s Eve ball – and the service is carnage; expect lots of miscommunication and truculent attitude. The food isn’t bad, though it’d be interesting to know how many pigs feet they actually ever sell. $$ Shabu Shabu Hot Pot (D6) ul. Mokotowska 27, tel. 535 685 750, open 12:00-22:30. shabu-shabu.pl Each table has its own set of hot pots installed and once you choose your broth and extras, you are the master of your own culinary destiny.

We chose some seafood and some greens and were served a dish that was not quite a pad thai, but incredibly tasty all the same. A simple meal, but satisfying nonetheless. $$ Silk & Spicy (D5) ul. Żurawia 16/20, tel. 22 629 7012, open Mon-Fri 11:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-2:00,

www.silkandspicy.pl If you don’t benchmark Silk & Spicy against what you’d eat in Asia (and you really shouldn’t), then you might enjoy it. “The curry was on taste-wise,” said our disappointed graphic, “but the cream cheese didn’t work in the sushi and the kmichi-style salad served at the beginning was very pedestrian for such a place.” $ Toan Pho (D4) ul. Chmielna 5/7, tel. 888 147 307, open Mon-Fri 9:30-21:30, Sat-Sun 10:00-21:30 Toan Pho’s bowls of soup with rice noodles come highly recommended; as does the chaos intrinsic to this type of casual Asian eatery. The short menu is in Vietnamese with Polish decoding – although you can ask for an English version. $

balkan & russian Banja Luka (E8) ul. Szkolna 2/4, tel. 22 828 1060, open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.banjaluka.pl Lots of clunky timber and imported ceramics set the scene at this eatery, a Balkan stalwart that’s known for its economical pricing structure and bulky portions. Grilled meats are prominent and the food largely reliable. $$ Babooshka (E3) ul. Oboźna 9, lok. 102, tel. 22 406 3366, open 12:00-22:00, www.babooshka.pl Looking intimate and woodsy Babooshka

serves up dollops of simple Russian food to a budget conscious crowd. The bacon and tomato scented solyanka soup is a thick broth best suited for Warsaw’s long, windy nights. $ Restauracja Gruzja (D4) ul. Chmielna 5, tel. 729 460 761, open Mon-Sun 12:00-23:00, smakigruzji.pl So good that our Georgian connection claims it to be every bit as good as back home.

The khachapuri wins big points, but so too the badrijani – eggplant slices rolled and filled with a mix of walnuts and Georgian spices. And then there’s the chinkali, every Georgian’s favorite dough purse of broth and meaty goodness. $ U Madziara (B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 620 1423, open Mon 11:30-20:00; Tue & Wed 11:30-21:00; Thu & Fri 11:30-22:00; Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, www.umadziara.pl U Madziara looks like it took two days to decorate. No-one goes here to marvel at the interiors though, they go in the knowledge that they’ll find great food at prices all bank cards can support. Chef Gabor’s signature goulash is one of life’s simple pleasures. $ Yugo (B4) ul. Sienna 83 (enter from Żelazna), tel.

694 109 379, open 12:00-20:00 You feel alive just being here: big on Colgate white colors, vintage tourist agency posters and bright stickers, Yugo is just about the

ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 97 07 www.cesarski-palac.com.pl Cesarski Palace has thrived in Warsaw for 18 years – from the outset we were the first to offer authentic Chinese dishes, including our signature Peking Duck which comes baked in a custom-made oven and served with pancakes, cucumbers, por and a special sauce.

Expect personalized service and special attention from the chef inside a restaurant sensitive to Feng Shui requirements. There’s nothing comparable to our perfect tastes!

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listings / restaurants cheeriest eatery you’ll come across on a dour winter’s day. Presenting the food of the former Yugoslavia, this Balkan bolt hole specializes in meaty dishes served in traditional bread. $

british British Bulldog (D4) ul. Krucza 51, tel. 22 827 0020, open 11:00-1:00, www.bbpub.pl The pub design is wonderful, and straight out of Midsomer Murders with its Chesterfield sofas and Cutty Sark mirrors. But it’s been a downhill disaster

since they lost the original management team. What could have become Poland’s original gastro pub now serves greasy burgers and, judging by the stench at the bar, lots of food that’s way over-fried. $$ Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640, open Mon-Fri 11:00-last guest; Sat-Sun 10:00last guest, www.legendsbar.pl It’s a British pub first and foremost, but don’t forego the kitchen either. The all-day breakfast is a great way to stoke up your drinking powers, while other dishes of note inc. pies, sausages and mash and, of course, fish and chips. $$

burgers Barn Burger (D4) ul. Złota 9. tel. 512 157 567, open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat 13:00-22:00; 13:0021:00, www.barnburger.pl Retaining a loyal crowd ever since their 2012 entry on the burger circuit, Barn Burger offer a loud and lively atmosphere and much celebrated burgers with names such as Heart Attack and Muppet. The list by the door celebrates the results of their frequent American-style eating competitions. $

Because Warsaw Just Got Hotter Classic Indian Cuisine With A Funky Twist ul. Zurawia 22, tel. 501 400 386, www.rain.pl

Bobby Burger (C4) ul. E. Plater 47, tel. 785 833 603, open 12:00-22:00, bobbyburger.pl It’s become the dominant force on Warsaw’s burger map, which all things considered is quite perplexing. With so many franchise outlets to their name it’s hard to keep a check on consistency, though it appears the Emili Plater branch is the best of the bunch.

Seeing it’s burgers they specialize in, it says a lot that their fries are the bright point. $ Brooklyn Burgers & Wings (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel. 22 270 2144, open Sun-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-4:00; Sun 12:00-23:00 Not here meat and ketchup explosive devices that detonate all over your trousers, instead find neatly formed burgers made with prime Polish beef that’s ground onsite. And while you won’t need them, it’s a nice touch that they come served with disposable gloves. Delicious homemade sauces, ribs and wings add to the draw. $ Burger Bar (E10) ul. Puławska 974/80 (enter from Olkuska), tel. 780 094 076, open Tue-Thu 12:00-

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21:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-22:00, burgerbar.waw. pl Warsaw’s first legitimate burger spot was the talk of the town when it first opened up in 2012, only to have its thunder stolen when 100 copycats opened in their trail. But this lot have kept plugging away, sticking to their guns with little song and dance. Intimate and unassuming, it’s for good reason they’ve retained a loyal core of fans – if the words masterpiece can be applied to a burger, then their green chili burger is just that. $ Bydło i Powidło (A5) ul. Kolejowa 47, tel. 22 400 48 44, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-21:00 Set in a modern glass prism, here’s a place that’s realized you can’t get away with just serving burgers anymore (though here, they’re very good indeed). Unfortunately, the steak part of the menu just isn’t there yet.

Między Bułkami (D4) Al. Jerozolimskie 23, tel. 22 126 0159, open 11:00-23:00 You want to yell, “stop opening burger joints!” But ‘Between the Buns’ is one of those additions we really don’t mind: there’s nothing original about the menu, nor the presentation, but the quality is a solid 8/10. $ Taste Burger (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 22/28, open 12:00-22:00, tasteburger.pl Set in the pavilion bars behind Nowy Świat, Taste Burger use seasoned beef and pride themselves on their ‘honest’ ingredients. Their growing popularity is evidence of a philosophy that works.

Warburger (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1. Open Mon-Sat 12:0020:00; Sun 12:00-19:00, www.warburger.pl While Warsaw has lost its appetite for burgers, you wouldn’t necessarily tell by popping in WarBurger. Set inside a diminutive cabin, join the scrum for pimped-up burgers that use slow-food ingredients. If not the best, they’re most certainly up there. $ Queen Burger (E5) ul. Hoża 1a, tel. 733 142 492, open Sun-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-3:00 A new face over last summer, and one joyously received

by Warsaw’s burger aficionados. The look screams US roadside diner, but inside it’s all young city style mavens. The choice extends to house specialties such as gringo, teriyaki and femiburger, though our advice to meatheads is to simply stick to the classic cheeseburger: it’s a towering stack of ultra-satisfaction. We’ve

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Delicja Polska take concepts of old fashioned and traditional and modernize them – that’s evident in the interiors, which are all swish and polish, though even more evident by their menu: game, fish and suchlike cooked using the latest technology and culinary know-how. The result is a restaurant that feels steeped in heritage, yet at the same time that has updated itself sufficiently to suit the 21st century diner. This is upmarket Polish at its best.

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listings / restaurants experienced nightmarish waiting times, but like WarBurger, that’s just added proof they’re doing something very right. $

Ziggi Point (B4) ul. Pańska 59, tel. 696 145 735, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-20:00 Diners are summoned to the counter to collect their order via a buzzer, before settling down to enjoy what has emerged as a real candidate for Warsaw’s best burger. The fiery Desperados is as perfect as a burger gets, and best twinned with a Curiosity Cola from the Fentimans brand. Steaks and wings also available inside a cool diner setup. $

cheap eats Bar Turecki “Efes” (H4) ul. Francuska 1, tel. 22 616 2580, open daily 11:00-21:00. ul. Aleje Niepodleglości 80, tel.

22 898 3001, open daily 11:00-22:00 So it’s a kebab shop, but when the kebabs are this good they’re well worth the listing. Either join the queue outside, or head indoors to sample the smattering of grill food and salads. $ Friterie (D5) ul. Hoża 42, tel. 794 158 813, open Sun-Thu 10:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-2:00 Served in paper cones, the Belgian-style chips come

with that inimitable double-fried crunch and a range of sauces that merit experimentation: try the ‘Andaluse’. $ Hummus Bar (B4) ul. Żelazna 64, tel. 723 058 223, open 11:00-19:00, www.hummsubar.pl Much like the lime green interior, the concept is simple and straightforward: hummus, falafel and fresh pitta breads served to a busy lunchtime crowd. There’s nothing more to say other than it’s utterly delicious. $ Kurczaki (D7) Oleandrów 8, open Sun-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00 If you like your birds spitroasted then look no further than Kurczaki, a budget eatery whose specialty is chicken.

Wait it out in sweltering temperatures before being rewarded by ace chicken cooked in varying sizes and styles: depending on the day, that could mean in beer or in Thai or Jamaican sauces. $ Manekin (C3) ul. Marszalkowska 140, tel. 22 826 0753, open Sun-Thu 10:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:0023:00, www.manekin.pl Originally founded in Toruń, this pancake house chain is a national phenomenon – at times, queues for a table snake outside. The menu touts dozens of pancake options served in sweet and savory form (there’s even a spaghetti version…), and most agree they’re worth the ridiculous waiting times - waits in excess of 20 minutes (and considerably more) are the norm. $

Meat Love (D5) ul. Hoża 62, tel. 500 149 210, open Mon-Thu 10:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-last guest; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.meatlove.pl Not ones to stagnate, Meat Love have expanded in size, meaning there’s now plenty of room to sample their artisan sandwiches – the roast beef will make your knees tremble. But with this weather, most head to the shaded pavement terrace. Do so as well, and with a craft beer for company. $ Mr. Pancake (E3) ul. Solec 50, tel. 501 237 461, open MonSat 11:00-10:00; Sun 12:00-8:00, www.mrpancake.pl You’re just going to love their pancakes, with their fun, wacky look and creative toppings (M&Ms, funny faces traced with icing sugar, and lots of chocolatey stuff).

They’re the sort of pancakes you’d get if Bart Simpson got stoned and decided to make some food – brilliant. $ To Tu Dumpling Bar ul. Niekłańska 33, open 11:00-20:00, www.chinskapierogarnia.pl A shabby looking shack cabin, To Tu offer what are seriously considered some of the best – if not the best – dim sum in town. Magic-ked up by a Manchurian exile, the experience isn’t unlike being in a sweaty back street haunt in Asia.

And that’s a good thing! $

cooking schools Cook Up Studio ul. Racławicka 99 (Fort Mokotów), tel. 22 212 89 76, www.cookup.pl Workshops in a gorgeous cooking studio located in a redbrick fortress. Past themes have included Swedish cooking (led by the Swedish Embassy chef), knife skills and soup, with lessons culminating in eating all that hard work.

Exotic Moroccan Tajines & Couscous Mandi Oven + Charcoal Grill Enjoy the unique taste from Morocco and the Arab World

Joseph’s Culinary Studio ul. Duchnicka 3, tel. 663 040 800, www. jospehseeletso.pl A familiar face from the TV, Botswanan born chef Joseph Seeletso marks a new chapter of his career with the launch of his own culinary academy. Tailor-made courses for individuals and groups are held in a custom-designed kitchen, and include cookery classes, wine tasting, dinner and the chance to learn a stack of secrets from the man himself.

Scheller Academy ul. Międzynarodowa 68, tel. 22 626 80 92,

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listings / restaurants open Mon-Fri 9:00-17:00 (Office) www. schelleracademy.pl Instantly recognizable by his beret and whiskers, Swiss-born Kurt Scheller invites guests to his Saska Kępa kitchen for lessons aimed at all skill levels.

cuban El Caribe ul. Mickiewicza 9, tel. 22 400 0994. Open Mon-Thu 12:30-24:00; Fri-Sat 12:30-1:00; Sun 12:30-22:30 Start with a round of daiquiris before ordering frijoles negroes (black beans). But everyone agrees, it’s the flan that gets you doing the cha cha. With the cooking left to a Cuban exile, this perky spot is worth the trip north to Żoliborz. $$

french ArtBistro Stalowa ul. Stalowa 52, tel. 22 618 2732, www. stalowa52.pl, open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:30-22:00 Part of an ‘art hotel’, the distant Stalowa features a narrow dining chamber with vaulted walls, fresh flowers and white formica fittings. It looks good, but on a brighter day the courtyard, strewn with deckchairs and crates, is the place to be. The food is erratic – our vol au vent starter was dry and devoid of taste, while the chocolate ‘cream’ dessert was a runny, ugly looking disappointment. But there is potential: the main was a thing of excellence – duck with a carefully crisped skin, a perfect hint of fat, expertly browned potatoes and a wellexecuted orange and caramel sauce. $$ Le Bistro Rozbrat (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44, tel. 22 881 7808, open 12:00-24:00. The signs suggest that Powiśle is set to mature even further this year, making the transition from hipster haunt to restaurant breeding ground – and here is Exhibit A. Owned by Frenchman Alain Budzyk, the interiors are contemporary casual, with talking points saved for the food. The concise menu has token nods to Spanish cuisine, as well as a steak bavette that’s being raved about on the blogs. $$ Le Victoria Brasserie Moderne (D3) ul. Królewska 11 (Sofitel Warsaw Victoria), tel. 22 657 8332, open Mon-Sat12:00-24:00, www.sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com The interior of Didier Gomez whispers intimacy, yet it also embraces notions of space and light. The ca-

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sual elegance that emanates from the design is accented by warm colors, low banquettes and glinting mirrors. Acting as a ballast to it all is an open kitchen, in which you’ll find Executive Chef Maciej Majewski honing his art. His is a menu that fits seamlessly with the surrounds: a fresh, modern look at French cuisine, but one that values clarity and simplicity.

Always leave room for dessert, especially the ‘pear trio’ – delicate and refreshing and with the right hint of sweet.

german Adler (E5) ul. Mokotowska 69, tel. 22 628 73 84, open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-24:00, www.adlerrestauracja.pl Set in a rustic rotunda, this veteran favorite packs in reassuringly caloric portions of pork knuckles, schnitzel and dumplings – all of a sudden, you understand why Helmut Kohl looks so large. Foaming beers served by Bavarian country maids complete the authenticity. $

greek & turkish Paros (D4) ul. Jasna 14/16, tel. 22 828 1067, open 12:00-last guest, www.paros-restauracja.pl Out of all of Warsaw’s Greek contributions Paros dazzles most with a glitzy look that’s a complete U-turn from the typical taverna look. Owned by the same team behind El Greco, the menu is identical, though a recent visit revealed a kitchen resting on its laurels – not one plate on our table was finished. $$ Santorini ul. Egipska 7, tel. 22 672 0525, open daily 12:00-23:00, www.kregliccy.pl/santorini/ Santorini looks scuffed and tired but there’s a bonhomie present that instantly engages.

The kitchen attaches no value to things like presentation, preferring instead to simply treat diners to piles of grilled and skewered food that consistently tastes right – and the milfei dessert is magic. $$ Sofra (C6) ul. Wilcza 71, tel. 731 847 731, open MonThu 10:00-23:00; Fri & Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-22:00 On the design front it’s almost a straight plagiary of Charlotte: white brickwork, blackboard and communal table.

So the surprise here is the food – Turkish.

And not just any Turkish, but brilliant Turkish!

It’s nothing fancy, but there’s a real honest quality to the moussaka and lamb and beef in tomato sauce. The desserts are a real spoiler as well. $

indian Bollywood Lounge (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, tel. 22 827 0283, open Sun-Thu 12:00-3:00; Fri 12:00-6:00; Sat 14:00-6:00, bollywoodlounge.pl Known for their raucous dusk-till-dawn parties, there is another less hedonistic roll filled by Bollywood: that of a restaurant. The menu is an uncomplicated, classic affair that’s an ideal primer for the party ahead. $$ Bombaj Masala (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 606 688 777, open 11:00-23:00, www.bombajmasala.pl One of the best looking Indian restaurants in Warsaw, but the food rarely pokes above average. For a cuisine that prides itself on rich, intense tastes, Bombaj gets remembered for bland, oily dishes that only sometimes get finished. Yet business remains brisk, thanks in part to a combination of location and general culinary ignorance. $$

Buddha (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 23, tel. 22 826 3501, open Sun-Thu 11:0023:00; Fri&Sat 11:00-24:00, www.buddha.info.pl The days of the Raj are recreated in Buddha, a finelooking curry house with intricate interiors and top-drawer curries. The murgh masala jhodphur is a favorite of ours though the real plus here is the consistency: it’s always a solid bet. $ Curry House ul. Żeromskiego 81, tel. 508 870 774 & al.

Ken 47, tel. 22 213 0689, open daily 11:0022:00, curryhouse.com.pl A primitive design (port-a-loo toilet, barred windows) and far-flung location have not hindered Curry House one bit. It’s a legend, not least for their vindaloo – a macho dish that provokes spontaneous combustion. Be warned: no beer. $ Madras (B3) Al. Solidarnosci 129/131, tel. 536 335 333, open 11:00-22:00 Even before you enter, you smell Madras: a pungent aroma that wafts gloriously over gloomy Solidarnośći.

“That’s down to the menu, a succinct choice of options that connects local produce with imported extras”

The Mexican Revolution

Firing warning shots all over Warsaw, a humble burrito bar is showing the big boys exactly how it’s done…

T

he game is up. The Big Con is over. After years of being peddled mostly second-rate Mexican, a revolution is underway in Warsaw and its assault has been swift and sustained. Leading it all is Gringo Bar, a ground floor corner unit down a Mokotów side street.

Revolutions, after all, have humble beginnings…

That the footprint is small only heightens the buzz: there’s a constant in-out motion as diners come and go. None leave unhappy. That’s down to the menu, a succinct choice of options that connects local produce with imported extras. The resulting tastes meet with blanket approval.

Created by hip hop artist Maciej Bilka, a.k.a Bilon, Gringo’s informal look has a casual undercurrent that feels resoundingly inclusive. Regulars exchange nods and fist bumps with gloriously inked chefs, before settling around a communal table to unravel their food.

It’s a proper bite so it is. Take the burrito, for instance: melty cheddar, Sicilian avocados, cooling yogurt, organic beans and a generous spread of chicken. There’s variation in there, sparky tastes and zippy flavors.

It’s not the boring pile of rice and beans endured elsewhere: this is the real deal. A friend once described one high profile venue as being The Mexi-Can’t. Well, here’s the polar opposite: this is The Mexi-Can. Seems the rest of Warsaw agrees. (AW) Gringo Bar ul. Odolańska 15, gringobar.pl

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listings / restaurants Looking humble, unassuming, and even a little seedy, this microscopic venue is as far removed from refined as it gets. For all that, those who love Indian food refuse to go anywhere else for their curry – full of intense flavors and bold spicing, the vindaloo is a near death experience: even your hair feels like it’s on fire. As the burning euphoria subsides, you’re left basking in that blissful glow all hotheads will know. Note: no alcohol license. $ Parivar al. Waszyngtona 75, tel. 22 393 4104, open 11:00-22:00, www.parivar.pl The squid sizzler has the taste and texture of that chewing gum you found stuck under the bus seat, whil e the vindaloo is cunningly disguised as a bowl of red water with some chicken floating about. “I get better curry on the oil rigs,” opined the Insider’s official balti boy.

For all of that, the biggest disappointment is Parivar’s apparent success. $ Rain by India Curry (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 438 9350, open Mon-Sun 12:00-23:00, www.rain.pl Fresh, contemporary interiors impart a chic, classy look, while the shaded courtyard garden is one of the best about town. The real credit for Rain’s resuscitation though belongs to the kitchen: our curry expert rates the starters as the best he’s had in any Indian restaurant. And the mains continue the form with a magnificent lamb tikka masala. The tiffin lunch deals are outstanding as well. $$

Rani Al. KEN 48/10, tel. 729 247 400, open 11:00-22:00, rani.com.pl Mere steps from Metro Natolin, this restaurant’s catchment area goes beyond just Ursynów. Owner Samir is a self-confessed foodie, and his vision includes a contemporary Indian menu that features pan-seared cod with turmeric, tomato salsa and mint chutney – wonderful.

Rani will also please the traditionalists, with everything from creamy kormas to vindaloo’s that leave your ears blowing smoke rings. $$

international 2 Światy (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel.

534 325 325, open Mon-Thu 11:00-22:00; Fri 11:00-2:00; Sat 13:002:00; Sun 13:00-21:00 A restaurant, bar and hangout, 2 Światy blurs boundaries by presenting a competent drinks list alongside a small but well-formed menu that includes several after-midnight options. The design is urban and concrete, well-suited to the trendy Żurawia address.

A nuż Widelec (E3) ul. Dobra 14/16, tel. 507 367 520, open 12:00-22:00 So snug is A nuż widelece, the feeling is of being round at a friend’s house.

The food is nothing fancy, but fresh and made with love – and it feels even better

while the owner potters about, chatting with his guests and stoking the fire in their new winter garden. Such is the atmosphere, you want to call it home. $$

Baltazar by Mondovino (D5) ul. Krucza 24/26, tel. 516 817 855, open 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, baltazar. warszawa.pl Filled with big red colors and battleship greys, there’s a nice feeling of improvisation to Baltazar, and an undercurrent of individuality emphasized by a 1950s wall painting that’s the venue’s statement piece and ballast. The cooking is the work of twins Kuba and Michał (“one person in two bodies” laughs the owner), and is a brilliant work of deconstructed simplicity: delicate rabbit and thyme ravioli, Fred Flintstone-style steaks, and pork belly served with a blob of foam and an arc of liquefied apple. And all hail the desserts, in particular, the silky crème caramel. $$ Bibenda (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 10, tel. 502 770 303, open Tue-Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, bibenda.pl If it’s informal dining you want, then Bibenda nails it: here the warm design incorporates a popular bar area filled with a young, chattery crowd. The seasonal menu makes use of market vegetables and farmyard produce, and is built on pillars of quality and simplicity. $$

Dear Guests!

We invite you to experience an exotic and mysterious adventure full of seasonal aromas and the unforgettable flavours of traditional Indian cuisine.

Curry, coriander, turmeric, cinnamon, ginger, cumin: these aromas mean it’s impossible to pass Buddha without stepping in.

Enjoy the atmosphere of Indian life, food, music and happiness.

Buddha Indian Restaurant ul. Nowy Swiat 23 +48 22 826 35 01 / 725 111 222

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listings / restaurants Bierhalle al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), Nowy Świat 64, Marszałkowska 55/73, bierhalle.pl Beer and food: a match made in heaven.

Accompany your frothing stein of lager with traditional beery bites like sausages, schnitzel and pork knuckle. The menu is German / Polish slanted, but with a few international accents. $$ Bernie Grill & Beer (C1) Rynek Nowego Miasto 13/15, tel. 666 999 555, open 10:00-24:00, bernie.pl You might think any place with the words ‘beer’ and ‘grill’ in their title deserves a crack, but everything about Bernie’s is ordinary and mainstream. We sent our food back after it was burned to a crisp, and we weren’t alone.

Preying on passing tourists, it’s become one to avoid. $$

Boathouse ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 389a, tel. 22 616 3223, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00- 18:00, www.boathouse.pl The name gives it away, doesn’t it? Situated in what is indeed a former boathouse, this venerable institution comes into its element each summer when Warsaw goes riverside to dine at this restaurant. Even out of season, the Mediterranean standards have stood the test of time and keep this venue busy. $$

Brasserie Warszawska (E5) ul. Górnośląska 24, tel. 22 628 9423, open Mon 12:00-22:00; Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-20:00, www.brasseriewarszawska.pl Looking for classic cuisine with no daft flights of fancy? Step right in. At a time when everyone wants to be Ferran Adrià, Brasserie has both a menu and interior that you can understand: pan-fried foie gras; elegant beef Rossini; and sinful apple tarte tatin, all served inside posh interiors of zinc-plated mirrors and chessboard floors. Their Michelin Bib Gourmand is a source of pride, but it’s the number of repeat clients that are the ultimate paean to the skills of chef Mateusz Wichrowski. $$$ Bubbles (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 512 540 913, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-18:00, bubbles.com.pl Occupying a small, square room, it’s intimate and relaxed: a place busy with blackboards and bottles, crates and clutter. The food is exquisite, and includes big, meaty snails farmed in Mazury, and their signature dish: Swiss-style raclette. Presented on a wooden chopping board, this cheese dish is classic melty goodness, and served alongside a pile of potatoes, onions marinated with caramel and candied pumpkin. Considering the place doubles as a champagne bar the prices are remarkably moderate. $$ Concept 13 (D4) ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7373, open Mon-Sat

11:00-23:00; Sun 11:00-16:00 You’d expect a rooftop meal at Poland’s ultimate luxury department store to cost the earth, but that’s not the case. The zł. 50 lunch deal allows Joe Public to enjoy the considerable skills of Dariusz Barański. That he manages to create different pieces of art each and every afternoon is a testament to his talent – fellow chefs and foodies privately talk of him as a Michelin star in the making. $$$ Der Elefant (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, tel. 22 890 0010, open 12:00-24:00, www.derelefant.com This leviathan restaurant unravels in a maze of wrought iron and monochrome tiles. The menu looks like it was devised by throwing darts at a cookbook (Mediterranean mezze, Tom Yum soup, burgers, pierogi, etc.), but if the focus is blurry then the quality isn’t. While some of the dishes are strictly middling, the Alaskan crab claws are excellent while the filet mignon (zł. 59) one of the best meat deals in town – and it’s even better when twinned with their own-made BBQ sauce. $$ Dom ul. Mierosławskiego 12, tel. 509 165 712, open Tue-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:0022:00 The simple name implies exactly what it is: a restaurant in a house. Set in a pre-war home complete with a lawn and garden, this little secret isn’t all that secret. When the Insider visited it was packed, prompting staff to make some adjustments and put together a table. We’re glad they did. Their menu

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listings / restaurants changes frequently, and on our visit included homemade focaccia, beef risotto and gravlax with lime foam on top of a mini-pancake. You won’t want to leave. $$ Dwie Trzecie (D5) ul. Wilcza 50/52, tel. 605 589 588, open 12:00-24:00 With regards to food, think author’s cuisine with a Mediterranean twist and plenty of surprises along the way – edible flowers, nitrogen blasts, etc. The hangar steak scores big points, while the mid-market prices belie the high standard. Pleasingly, you get the idea Dwie Trzecie will work in all seasons: raw enough for summer, yet also intimate for winter. But will it work following the departure of chef Marcin Jabłonski? The next few months will be revealing. $$ Kaskrut (D6) ul. Poznańska 5, tel. 22 622 5438, open Mon-Sun 12:00-15:00, 17:00-23:00, www. facebook.com/dwichlab This haunt has a high communal seating plan and a hip, buzzy foodie crowd: fit in by taking pics of the food.

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The exciting menu is a temporary work that changes every two weeks. The place is known for its trial-and-error attitude: combinations that don’t work get binned before making a public debut. Those that make it through the qualifiers end up on the board. Servings are artistic, excellent and heavily influenced

by French and North African cuisine, and the new chef looks like he’s adapted well to Kaskrut’s high standards. $$

Kitchen (D4) ul. Widok 8, tel. 22 464 8284, open Mon-Thu 10:00-23:00; -Fri 10:00-1:00; Sat 12:00-1:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.burgerkitchen.pl The revolution is complete. Gone are the street food influences (though burgers have survived the edit), replaced instead by an intelligent menu authored by chef Piotr Ceranowicz. It doesn’t take long to appreciate the revisions, among them a

beef tartar served with a scoop of mustard ice cream and lightly toasted homemade bread. Keeping to owner Tomek Wóźniak’s philosophies, the wonderful compositions of Ceranowicz make use of the freshest, seasonal ingredients and come complimented by some rather smashing cocktails. This is casual dining at its apex. BEST WAWA 2014 “Reinvention” Krucza 8 i Pól (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 10 (enter from Krucza), tel.

784 461 397, open 11:00-23:00 Looking sparse and fashionable one expects Eight and a Half to be on-trend food-wise. No such luck. Fundamentally the food is fine, with quality ingredients cooked with technical competence. Yet while there are hints of skill in the kitchen, there’s little evidence of creativity, passion or invention: imagine the sort of modern European food you’d find in a generic five star hotel. $$ La Maison (B3) ul. Chłodna 15, tel. 22 652 3660, open 8:00-

listings / restaurants 23:00, lamaison.pl Everything here feels considered, from a wine list handpicked by importer Frank Telling, right down to the desserts, prepared by award-winning French pastry chef Michel Willaume – and my, what desserts. Backing the little details up is a menu of note: fish are a particular forte. All this in a casual background that features some whimsical Alice in Wonderland touches: patchwork armchairs, pinkish booths and hanging teapot-shaped lights. $$ La Rotisserie (C1) ul. Kościelna 12 (Le Régina Hotel), tel. 22 531 6070, open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, 12:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 7:00-11:00,12:0023:00, www.leregina.com Truly, one of the standout dining rooms of Poland. Many have commented on the Michelin quality of chef Paweł Oszczyk’s restaurant, and you may consider the lack of a star one of the puzzles of the modern world. The cooking is ‘classic with a twist’, and is built for superlatives: the slow-roasted rack of Welsh lamb was one of our highlights of 2013.

Find Oszczyk ably supported by Andrzej Strzelczyk, Poland’s top ranked sommelier, and wonderfully charismatic staff. $$$ L’enfant Terrible (D8) ul. Sandomierska 13 (enter from Rejtana), tel. 22 119 5705, open Mon 18:00-22:00; Tue-Fri 12:30-15:30, 18:00-22:00; Sat 15:00-22:00, www.eterrible.pl What a few months for L’enfant Terrible: opened at the end of summer, they’d already done enough

by October to win Gazeta Wyborcza’s coveted Knajpy Roku award. And no-one deserves it more than Chef Michał Bryś, an innovative chef who leaves diners beaming.

Pitting local produce against modern techniques the tasting menu (five courses: zł. 170) is sensational: the duck hearts will live long in this Insider’s memory. With all the hype you expect it to be a little up its arse, but it’s anything but: the design is smart but non-threatening, and the front of house staff are due plenty of credit. $$$ BEST WAWA 2014 “Newcomer”

six itsy pots served in a wire-framed basket.

A new concept for Warsaw, it’s been a case of so far so good for Momu. $

Lokal 14 (D3) ul. Świętokrzyska 14, tel. 22 827 5480, open Mon-Sat 8:30-24:00; Sun 10:0022:00 Having served his apprenticeship at Tamka 43, you’re right to expect good things from upcoming chef Filip Kosiń. He doesn’t disappoint with his artful menu of modern European “author’s cuisine”. Topping his skills off is a pleasing environment that’s big on light, wood and metalwork. Getting used to being more than a construction site, the opening of Lokal 14 is positive news for this stretch of Świętokrzyska. $$

Nolita (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 292 0424, Nolita open Mon-Fri 12.0015.00 (lunch), 18.00-22.30 (dinner); Sat 13.00-23.00, www.nolita.pl The deluxe dining scene is filling out in Warsaw, and there’s now a few restaurants that can present an equitable claim for the No. 1 spot. However, it’s Nolita that perch at the top, with a menu that sees largely classical recipes through a sharp, modern prism – chef Jacek Grochowina has created a place that’s coherent and understandable without sacrificing values of innovation. Looking chic and high end, the tastes and sensations in this restaurant are thrilling: diners are left speechless by the tuna tartar, while the aged beef fillet is an Insider mainstay. $$$ BEST WAWA 2014 “Chef” BEST WAWA 2014 “Fine Dining”

Momu.Gastrobar (D2) ul. Wierzbowa 11, tel. 506 100 001, open Sun-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00, www.momu.pl Tapas-style portions of experimental-looking food arrives in little glass jars (meat and fish skewers, Eton mess), or else on paper plates a la the jalapeno hot dog. Pay zł. 40 for a choice of

Nowa Kuźnia ul. Kostki Potockiego 24, tel. 794 126 019, open 12:00-last guest, www.nowakuznia.pl A mere step from Wilanów’s 18th century church, this onetime blacksmith passes muster for excellent steaks and fresh salads practically plucked from a garden. In season, the summer terrace is magical, and the

“Casual fine dining in the heart of Warsaw”

ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 292 0424, www.nolita.pl Reservations: rezerwacja@nolita.pl

Open Mon-Fri 12:00-15:00 Lunch, 18:00-22:30 Dinner, Sat 13:00-23:00 www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / restaurants place even touts a faux beach complete with diggers and slides for the kids. $$

Oliva (D4) ul. Ordynacka 10/12, tel. 501 497 410, open 12:00-23:00, www. restauracjaoliva.pl The spirit of the Mediterranean hangs over Oliva, a place where a milk color palette is matched against potted herbs and soft wooden touches. The menu has riffs of Italy, Spain and Greece, with particular pride attached to

their gourmet olive oils. At times the cooking of Łukasz Żuchowski has been described as ‘inspirational’ and his talents come paired with a wine list selected by Marek Kondrat – an actor / wine merchant with an immense reputation. $$ Papu (D9) al. Niepodległości 132/136, tel. 22 856 7788, open 11:00-22:30, restauracjapapu. pl The elegant décor sees wood-paneled walls lined with champagne bottles, making it an experience that is at once intimate and romantic. Chef Barek Kędra’s menu is specifically strong when it comes to white and red meats, while the wine list has been endorsed by Andrzej Strzelczyk, Poland’s champion sommelier. $$ Platter by Karol Okrasa (C4) InterContinental Hotel, ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8734 or 22 328 8730, open Mon-Fri 12:00-16:00, Sat-Sun 17:30-23:00, www.platter.pl The hotel has roped in celebrity chef Karol Okrasa to head their revamped dining room. As a temple of nouveau Polish, the new layout isn’t a dramatic change from the previous occupant, but the food is faultless. In particular, the herb garden salad with prawns comes immaculately groomed.

An already excellent experience has been raised to talking point level. $$$ Po Prostu Zachęta (D3) pl. Małachowskiego 3, tel. 22 556 96 77, open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-20:00, www.poprostuzacheta. pl Sophisticated yet cozy, Darek Ryniec’s restaurant is set on the lower level of the Zachęta, and despite the grand vaulted ceiling offers substantial privacy with tables nestled beside major columns. The set lunch menu emphasizes Polish, while offering a main menu that’s definitely trendy European: the dishes will be licked clean. $$

Punta Prima ul. Obrzeżna 1B, tel. 22 406 0886, open 11:00-22:00, puntaprima.com.pl There’s something immediately fetching about Punta Prima, a place that announces itself grandly with its deep wood panels and embroidered armchairs. For food, choose from a varied menu that draws on largely Mediterranean influences. Try the bream with herbs baked i sea salt. $$

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Qchnia Artystyczna (E6) Zamek Ujazdowski, Al. Jazdów 2, tel. 22 625 7627, open daily 12:00-22:00, www. qchnia.pl Even on a cold, ashen day, can you question a view that spills down onto a canal and park way down below? And how about when that view comes from a candle-lit reconstructed castle… Endlessly romantic, this artistic eatery comes with a light look and a creative menu honed by Marta Gessler. $$ Restauracja 99 (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 22 620 1999, open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.restaurant99.com Sporting a futuristic look, 99 is an enduring veteran of the CBD circuit. No longer the top dog for business wining / dining, it nonetheless remains a very safe choice for perfect steaks and loaded margaritas. $$ Salto ul. Wilcza 73 (enter from Emilii Plater), tel.

22 584 8771, www.saltorestauracja.pl For those who think Argentine chef Martin Gimenez-Castro is just about steak, then they haven’t been to Salto. The tasting menu is the best way to view his full oeuvre, and on our visit included ceviche with Portuguese corvina; a dainty tranche of cavala mackerel; and Porcini ice cream served in the shape of a mushroom. It’s a brilliant demonstration of the chef’s passion and personality, but most of all, it’s just bloody brilliant. $$$ Secado (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 66, tel. 608 707 799, open Mon-Fri 10:00-23:00; Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-23:00 Casual, intimate interiors complement a menu that’s expanded from its original Latin leanings. Everything we’ve tried here has been culinary gold, and that includes the surf & turf, tortillas and roast beef. That they also fix Warsaw’s top cocktails makes it something of a one-stop solution to your evening. $$ Senses (C2) ul. Bielańska 12, tel. 22 331 9697, open Mon-Fri 12:00-14:30, 17:30-22:00; Sat 17:30-22:00, www.sensesrestaurant.pl The entrance alone is a thing of fancy and accessed through a long open-air corridor, one side flanked by the office block, the other by bullet grazed brickwork. Flickering flames dance on either side, the tall walls disappearing into the night sky above. Recommended is the six course tasting menu (zł. 230), which on our visit included eel, smoked

listings / restaurants at the table, duck with onion chutney and pepper mousse and swordfish served amid billowing ‘sea essence’. Comparisons to Atelier Amaro are inevitable, and speak volumes for the innovation and talents of chef Andrea Camastra. $$$ BEST WAWA 2014 “Foreign Chef”

around: and yeah, it doesn’t really look like restaurant. Diners order at the counter before sitting down in a spontaneous looking, cutprice interior that clacks and clatters to the sound of grown-ups playing board games.

We’re huge fans. $$

Signature (D5) ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 55 38755, open 12:00-23:00, www.signaturerestaurant.pl ‘Kilian who?’ people asked when Wojciech Kilian was installed as head chef. But this young talent has had the last laugh: set to be Poland’s next big chef, his cooking is extraordinary and presents true fine dining at bargain prices. Kilian’s cause is complimented by a beautiful design described by one reader as a ‘Monegasque state of mind’. Think: friezes and reliefs dated from the time this was the Soviet Embassy, lavish 1950s Oswald chairs, lighting by Serge Mouille and original Marilyn photos shot by the acclaimed Milton Greene. You feel a millionaire just being here. $$

Sowa & Przyjaciele (G8) ul. Gagarina 2, tel. 795 505 152, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-20:00, www.sowaiprzyjaciele.pl Rocked by its involvement in a government bugging scandal, Robert Sowa has moved fast to reassure customers that all is well in his restaurant. And we can as well. Looking the part with its soft colors and warm lighting, positives are underlined by a sommelier with a sixth sense and a barnstorming menu that merits attention. Sowa is one of the biggest names in Polish cooking, and you may fear he spends more time on TV than he does on his kitchen: we’re happy to report on all of our visits we’ve seen him emerge from the background, sharing backslaps and bear hugs with his regular clientele. $$$

Solec 44 (F4) ul. Solec 44, tel. 798 363 996, open Tue-Sun 12:00-last guest; Mon 16:00-last guest. www.solec.waw.pl Chef Aleksander Baron is one of the big characters on Warsaw’s foodie circuit, and his love of nose-to-tail food always ensures surprises on the daily changing menu. Using fresh, seasonally appropriate ingredients, this is one of the best alternate dining experiences

Stółdzielnia (D9) ul. Kazimierzowska 22, tel. 22 845 00 67, open daily 13:00-22:00 www.stoldzielnia. pl A complete anomaly Stółdzielnia looks more like one of those one-day pop-up restaurants: unfinished looking, with oddshaped tables and stark colors. But keep an open mind because the food scores big points. The pizza, pasta and seafood dishes incorporate imported Italian ingredients, and

come close to blowing your mind. $$ Strefa (C3) ul. Próżna 9, tel. 22 255 0850, open Mon-Fri 8:00-24:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-24:00, www.restauracjastrefa.pl Just what were they thinking ignoring the form book like that? No communal tables, no pipes and no rough-hewn bricks. Instead, there’s a swan white elegance here, with lots of pristine colors and smart, smooth-talking service.

What a refreshing change. The chef favors sous-vide techniques, and his is a magic, masterful hand – his duck is flawless, and the homemade ice cream with seasonal fruits is quite a follow-up. Even the cocktails are a thing of brilliance. $$ Szklarnia ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), tel. 690 511 020, open 11:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00, restauracjaszklarnia.pl Natalia Huzarwicz’s cuisine is influenced by the season, which means plenty of warming winter dishes presented with real aplomb. Recognizable by the dazzle of neon and greenhouse outside, this is a restaurant that seamlessly fits with the Soho surrounds. $$ Tamka 43 (E3) ul. Tamka 43, tel. 22 441 6234, open Mon-Sun 10:00-23:00, www.tamka.43. pl The design is upscale but in a quiet, dignified manner, with the principal talking point being the view: there it is, right in front of you, the Ostrogski Palace. For date

• The best quality USDA Black Angus prime beef, Wagyu 9+ Kobe steaks and Scottish prime beef.

• Outstanding seafood menu with oysters, mussels, octopus and calamari and seasonal, traditional Polish dishes.

• The largest selections of global wine in Poland. ul. Merliniego 5 (across from the Warszawianka water park) tel. 22 646 0810/22 646 0849

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listings / restaurants night, book the peacock’s perch, a table for two that juts out from the rest of the glass frontage. Chef Rafał Hreczaniuk has finessed a menu that stands out as one of the best in the city, with a seasonal tasting menu that on our visit featured beautiful zander with horse radish powder, Irish beef cheek with plenty of oomph, and a wild garlic panna cotta.

Consider Tamka one of the Poland’s elite restaurants. $$$ Taste Wilanów ul. Kazachska 1, tel. 22 400 1122, open daily 11:30-22:30, www.taste.pl To leave a restaurant fortified is to be expected; to leave delighted is the mark of quality. With a clever L-shaped interior, a natural terrace and a gleaming white ceramic kitchen it looks good, but it’s the food that earns the plaudits. Dominik Moskalenko, the executive chef who cut his teeth on Amber Room has been a central part of this creation from the beginning and the fruits of his labor are mouth-watering. Fish sit prominently on his menu and account for an astonishing 60% of

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sales. And rightly so: they’re phenomenal. $$ U Chłopaków (B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 115 9710, open 8:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00 Chłodna’s renaissance continues. Formerly a decrepit grocery store of the same name, Chłopaków is all exposed brick, sprigs of greenery and overhanging lamps. It’s a casual stop, but the cooking is not a throwaway – the menu is heavily slanted towards Eastern European, and has winning pierogi and wonderfully thick goulash. $$ Wilczy Głód (D5) ul. Wilcza 29A, tel. 22 891 0285, open Mon 9:30-20:00; Tue-Thu 9:30-22:00; Fri 9:3023:00; Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 The jaunty, impish design makes use of cartoonish wolves on the walls and tree-like installations strung with bare light bulbs.

And look, there’s a furry, mouse resting on a cushion. But if the place is playful and perky, then the cooking is both serious and sincere.

Pairing international ideas with organic local

produce from small family farmsteads, you immediately sense this is a place created out of a love and respect for food. $ Winosfera (B3) ul. Chłodna 31, tel. 22 526 2500, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00, www.winosfera.pl Everyone enjoys the food, and Jakub Adamczyk’s seasonally adjusted menu is indeed a thing of greatness: the beef tenderloin is a must, while the rhubarb parfait is a dessert of distinction. The prices reflect the quality of the kitchen, but certainly not that of the wait staff – two years after opening, and Winosfera still haven’t ironed out issues such as front-of-house staff who greet guests with an ‘Uh’. $$$ You & Me (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 379 0379, open Mon-Thu 7:00-24:00; Fri 7:00-2:00; Sat 12:002:00; Sun 12:00-24:00, youandmebar.pl A modern looking eatery / cocktail bar whose kitchen has a distinct liking for pan-European dishes and seafood. Set over two floors,

listings / restaurants their enduring popularity – eight years and counting – makes it something of a legend on Żurawia. $$

italian Ave Pizza (E3) ul. Topiel 12, tel. 22 828 8507, open 12:00-22:00 The argument over who serves Warsaw’s best pizza goes right to the wire, but there’s no doubting that Ave Pizza are up there on the leaderboard. Set across a sparse, metropolitan area, this fashionable L-shaped joint comes endorsed by the capital’s notoriously picky Italian community.

Order the pillowy calzone and you’ll soon learn why. $ Bacio (D5) ul. Wilcza 43, tel. 22 626 83 03, open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00, www.bacio.pl New look Bacio has been de-cluttered and simplified and now features a stripped down look and a menu that peaks with the duck in red wine risotto. Portions are huge, and are matched by a quality that’s seen this once ailing giant reinstalled as one of the top Italian eats in town. $$ Delizia (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 22 622 6665, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00, www.delizia.com.pl The sheer proliferation of Italian restaurants lends an element of chance to dining out: cut through the noise by visiting Delizia, a place that’s consistently topped polls ever since it launched in 2010. Lorenzo’s cooking is upscale Italian with a contemporary twist, and comes presented by Luca, an ebullient ball of energy who patrols the floor with sparkling good humor. In the hands of these two an unforgettable night comes guaranteed. Top quality imported products, a dimly-lit romantic atmosphere, a tasteful design and faultless food: no wonder so many rate this as their favorite Italian. $$ Dziurka od Klucza (E3) ul. Radna 13, tel. 500 150 494, open Mon-Sun 12:00-22:00, dziurkaodklucza. com.pl An inviting Italian restaurant in which curious doors sit embedded into the walls, as if waiting to be opened by the keys that hang on the tree outside. Striking a lavender look, the magic of this restaurant is affirmed by its wonderful pasta and intimate style. $$

Focaccia (D2) ul. Senatorska 13/15, tel. 22 829 6969, open 8:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-23:00, focaccia.pl Polish foodies already know the name of Łukasz Toczka – single-handedly he pulled the culinary shipwreck that is Gdańsk into the 21st century during his stint at Metamorfoza restaurant. Now he’s popped up in Warsaw, and his Italian menu illustrates his talent: consider the bistecca con sedano a must. And while you’d expect a restaurant inside a palace to be all bowties and oil paintings, it’s anything but – instead find fresh, light interiors that reflect the nature of the food. $$ Mąka i Woda (D4) ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 91 87, open Mon-Thu 12:00-22:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-20:00 Purists applaud an approach that uses a custom-made oven from Naples and imported ingredients such as 00 Caputo flour and DOP certified San Marzano tomatoes. Scrupulously authentic, it’s no wonder that it’s packed to the gunnels every night of the week – even their Facebook page warns of 20 minute waiting times for a table alone. Learning this, some storm off in a huff – they need their heads checked, for this is Warsaw’s best pizza. $

‘Simplicity, elegance and atmosphere’

Cafe • Wine Bar • Restaurant • Whisky Bar • Wine Cellar ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 515 037 001 www.hoza.warszawa.pl www.facebook.com/hoza25 Open 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-21:00

Parmizzano’s (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel, Floor 1), tel. 22 630 6306, open 12:0023:00 The prices are highly intimidating, but are offset by cooking that never falls below brilliant. Hotel restaurants get a bad rep, but in the formal surrounds of Parmiazzano’s diners can expect Italian food at its very best. $$$ Ristorante San Lorenzo (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 36, tel. 22 652 1616, open 12:00-last guest, www.sanlorenzo. pl Adorned with crisp, starched linen and Roman frescos this space is almost magisterial in design. The Tuscan menu is flawless and well worth the rather hefty bill. The wine bar on the ground floor features the same standards at a snip of the price. It’s in here you’ll find Italian natives cheering the Serie A football. $$ Superiore (D6) ul. Piękna 28/34, tel. 506 404 059, open Mon-Fri 8:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-24:00, www.superiorewinebar.pl A hybrid wine shop, deli and restaurant, with an owner who prefers to think about the enjoyment of www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / restaurants your dining experience rather than his cash till. The veal pasta is the bestselling dish here for very good reason. $$

for a piece of heaven try the gnocchi tartufati.

No less than a warm trattoria whose specialty is good, simple food. $$

lease of life in this Piękna newbie. The flavors are a revelation, making it more than just a stop-off for passing office workers. $$

The Olive (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6706, open Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30, Sat & Sun 6:30-11:00 Bursting with seasonal fruits and veggies, it’s a fresh, fun place to eat. Hot and cold buffet for zł. 90. $$$

Venti-tre (E8) ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel), tel. 22 558 1094, open 6:30-23:00 There’s a hum and a buzz to the place that goes beyond the half a million bees kept in the apiary on the rooftop, and that’s never truer than on a Sunday afternoon – swing by for one of Warsaw’s top brunches, and don’t miss the terrace – carefully shielded from the outside world by a phalanx of greenery. The Mediterranean menu has been carefully constructed using local ingredients, with the results befitting one of Warsaw’s top hotels. $$$

japanese & sushi

Sakana Sushi Bar ul. Burakowska 5/7 tel. 22 636 0505, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00, Sun 13:00-22:00 & ul. Moliera 4/6, tel. 22 826 5958, open MonThu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-1:00; Sun 13:00-22:00 & ul. Wąwozowa 6, lok.10B, tel. 22 498 8899, Mon-Sat 12:00-22:30, Sun 13:00-22:00, www.sakana.pl Sushi as a fashion statement? That’s what you find in Sakana, a place where the glam and the great of Warsaw peacock around with feathers on display. Ignoring the general vanity and unpleasantness, one can’t help but applaud the sushi – if there was one winner in the sushi wars of the noughties, then Sakana was it. $$

Ryż i Ryba (D6) ul. Piękna 20, tel. 22 627 4150, open MonFri 11:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-22:00, www. ryziryba.pl The art of sushi is given a new

Sushi Zushi (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 420 3373, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-03:00; Sun 13:00-22:00, www.sushizushi.pl The

Trattoria da Antonio (D5) ul. Żurawia 18, tel. 22 625 5417, open Sun-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-24:00, www.trattoriadaantonio.pl At times you suspect you’ve walked into the 90s, what with the embellishments that appear at each turn – a Vespa, some stone lions, a water well. But this is no bad thing: at a time when restaurants are doing their best to look stripped down and functional, cheerful Antonio feels jaunty and fun. And the food, created by Sicilian-born Antonio Centurrino, has several redeeming qualities: the penne arrabiata is delicious in its simplicity, though

Authentic French Bistro ul. Rozbrat 44A 00-419 Warszawa +48 22 881 78 07 +48 788 95 97 97 www.lebistrorozbrat.pl www.facebook.com/LeBistroRozbrat

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listings / restaurants mania for sushi is in recess, and that’s a good thing – the rogue operators are dead or dying off, and are survived by the best.

And make no mistake, Sushi Zushi continue to be the No. 1 ex-pat choice. Appreciated by a stunning crowd, the rolls are often bold, creative and always astonishingly fresh. $$ Tekeda Sushi & Ramen ul. Meissnera 1/3, tel. 606 236 050, open 12:00-22:00, sushitekeda.pl Expansion is the name of the game. Already established in New Town, Tekeda’s latest venture on the other side of the river ticks boxes for its sushi, though it’s the ramen dishes everyone is talking about. Using free range produce and traditional techniques from the Kyushiu region of Japan, you won’t find better ramen in the country.

Tekeda Sushi & Wok (D1) ul. Freta 18, tel. 600 351 818, open daily 12:00-22:00, www.sushitekeda.pl Tekeda get it right with a good balance of sushi and

wok dishes, making it a popular destination with locals and passing tourists alike. The grilled maki is particularly pleasing. $$

latin & mexican

Casa Pablo (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5A, tel. 22 324 5781, open Mon-Sat 12:00-last guest, www.casapablo. pl While increasingly well represented in the capital, Spanish food has been pointed in a new direction by Casa Pablo. Breaking away from hackneyed clichés, the eclectic interior (tartan colors, crates, a century old mirror) is reflective of a menu that places equal importance on flair, quality and elements of fine dining. Based on the ‘creative Spanish’ movement, find the likes of pork ribs in hoi sin and honey sauce introduced, not to mention cod cooked at 45° and served with

pigs trotters. You’ll be amazed. $$ Dos Tacos (D4) ul. Jasna 22, tel. 22 243 4618, open 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00, dostacos. pl Dos Tacos finally have a venue worthy of the food. Featuring lots of Mexican lizard art and psychedelic, Day of the Dead touches, find the interiors busy with a lively crowd enjoying an exciting range of salsas and authentic Mexican recipes as cooked by Isabela Balderas. $$ Gringo Bar (E9) ul. Odolańska 15, tel. 22 848 9523, open Mon-Sat 12:00-20:00; Sun 11:00-20:00 A Mexican wave is upon us, and high time too. After years of suffering frozen ingredients, timid flavors and daft Mariachi music to persuade us it’s all authentic, a raft of new cut-price eateries are showing the rest how it’s done. Cooked and folded by fist bumping lads in back-to-front caps and baggy t-shirts, the food at Gringo is the best of the bunch: fiery, fresh and full of zing.

Spanish owner, Spanish chef… SPANISH SOUL! ul. Grzybowska 63 (next to the Hilton Hotel) 00-844 Warszawa +48 22 251 1310 www.tapasgastrobar.pl

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listings / restaurants Jamon ul. Wierzbowa 9, tel. 22 692 4223, open 12:00-23:00, jamon.pl The place looks the biz – custom made artwork presents swirling senoritas against an interior that’s based around a naval color palette and reclaimed wood touches. Perfect for ‘hot dates’.

There’s an onus on authenticity, and that’s evidenced by the four Spaniards found in the kitchen. We could find no weak point, meaning complete enjoyment of the tranche of black Alaskan cod, bulgy-eyed Huelva prawns and slow-roasted lamb shank. The desert – white chocolate cream – is worth a prize. $$ Ole Tapas (E5) ul. Bracka 2, tel. 519 875 767, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.ole-restaurant.pl A dual level wine bar and restaurant with a modern spirit and a Flamenco vibe. Don’t let the name fool you: while the tapas are good, it’s the steak most people come for. Choice here includes aged Spanish beef and Kobe cow. $$

Tapas Gastrobar (A4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 251 1310, open Mon-Thu 12:00-last guest (kitchen closes at 23:00); Fri-Sat 12:00-last guest (kitchen closes at midnight); Sun 12:00-19:00 (kitchen closes at 18:00), tapasbar.pl The engaging design features scuffed timber tables supported by rescued factory metal, open ductwork and elaborate floor tiles of Iberian persuasion. But the food is what everyone is talking about: the first class gazpacho, prepared onsite then served in a bottle, is full of refreshing summer zing, while the beef cheek is pure melty tenderness.

Our favorite, though, are the patatas bravas, perfectly fried potatoes served in a ballsy BEST tomato sauce. Just amazing. $$ WAWA 2014 “Casual Dining” Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46 (entrance from ul. Poznańska), tel. 22 621 8622, open 12:00-last guest, www.warsawtortillafactory.pl Howling hot salsas and freshly made tortillas give WTF a head start on other restaurants, but there

are other strings to their poncho: the menu has been slimmed and continues to be tinkered with, while the introduction of zł. 15 lunches – served on Alcatraz trays – present one of the best deals in town. We’ve enjoyed the burritos here for years, and score them as amongst the best around. $$

middle eastern HeyooDubai (B2) Al. Jana Pawła 45/54, tel. 535 075 770, open 11:00-23:00, tagine.pl Any doubts you have about a restaurant trying to cover the cuisine of Morocco, Pakistan and the Gulf states is immediately dispelled by the thick, rich aromas that pour from the traditional Mandi oven. The couscous is stalwart, and the charcoal grilled chicken a dish of real standing. Affordable and casual, Heyoo is the real deal. $$

Wielkanoc pełna smaku!

Easter, full of taste!

Wyśmienity smak smak żurku żurku zz grzybami grzybami AWyśmienity delicous taste of our soup with sausage, i i białą białą kiełbasą, kiełbasą, pasztet pasztet z z dziczyzny dziczyzny with mushrooms and sausage, wild game zz konfiturą konfiturą zz cebuli cebuli ii rodzynek, rodzynek, terrine with onion jam and raisins, traditional drożdżowe drożdżowe babyclassical ii mazurki... mazurki... yeast cakes baby and Polish mazurka...

Wielkanoc Wielkanoc -- niech niech twoje twoje święta święta będą będą

pełne pełne -smaku. smaku.

Easter may your celebrations be full of flavour.

Zapraszamy Zapraszamy do do składania składania zamówień zamówień świątecznych: świątecznych: CENTRUM: CENTRUM: ul. ul. Żurawia Żurawia 47/49, 47/49, Warszawa, Warszawa,

CENTER: ul. Żurawia 47/49, tel. +48 (22) 621 82 68, tel. tel. +48 +48 (22) (22) 621 621 82 82 68, 68, open 7:00-22:00 godziny godziny otwarcia: otwarcia: 7:00 7:00 -- 22:00 22:00 ŻOLIBORZ: ŻOLIBORZ:ul.Felińskiego ul.Felińskiego ul.Felińskiego52, 52, 52, tel. +48 Warszawa, Warszawa, ŻOLIBORZ: (22) 608 046 406, tel. tel. +48 +48 608 608 046 046 406, 406, godziny godziny otwarcia: otwarcia: 9:00 9:00 -- 20:00 20:00 open 9:00-20:00 www.smakiwarszawy.pl www.smakiwarszawy.pl www.smakiwarszawy.pl

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listings / restaurants Le Cedre (E1) Al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166, open daily 11:00-23:00, www.lecedre.pl With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops. $$ Le Cedre 84 (B3) Al. Solidarności 84, tel. 22 618 8999, open 11:00-23:00, www. lecedre.pl Le Cedre just keep on getting it right. Authenticity is key in this chainlette (well, there’s another across the river), as you’ll discover when talking to Tony, the Lebanese owner. To see the diversity of this cuisine, order the balbaak (six cold starters) or the byblos (six hot). And food aside, it’s the atmosphere that carries them that extra yard: the whole philosophy of this cuisine is to share and share alike, making it a uniquely engaging experience when dining with friends. $$

polish Ale Gloria (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7080, open

Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, www.alegloria.pl Who said romance was dead? Here wedding white colors are fused with a strawberry motif inside this gourmet fave. Keeping patrons returning are aromatic dishes with a contemporary twist – try the duck in rose sauce. $$$

Amber Room at the Sobański Palace (E6) Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat 12:00-22:30; Sun 12:00-20:00, www.amberroom.pl The Amber Room is, indeed, a bit of a treasure.

Chef Robert Skubisz has excelled himself in creating a menu that injects upmarket Polish dishes with contemporary flair. Set inside a majestic mansion, the recommendation they’ve received from Michelin is justly deserved. $$$ Atelier Amaro (E6) ul. Agrykola 1, tel. 22 628 5747, open Mon-Sat 12:00-14:30; 18:00-22:30, www.aterlieramaro.pl The recipient of Poland’s first (and only) Michelin star, Atelier promotes pedigree Polish produce enhanced by modern techniques, with courses interspersed by occasionally bizarre interludes (leaves, flowers, twigs, etc.). Don’t miss the bespoke vodka menu, either. It’s an extraordinary dining experience, and one which confirms the growing cult of chef

Wojciech Amaro. In the hours you’re here, the world stops and you leave feeling like James Bond. Reservations are mandatory, with a waiting list that is approximately two to three months long. $$$ BEST WAWA 2014 “Presentation”

Belvedere Łazienki Królewskie ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. 22 558 6701, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-20:00, belvedere.com.pl Regarded as one of the great names on Warsaw’s culinary carousel, this restaurant never ceases to impress: set in a imperial age glass orangery, it’s festooned with intricate latticework and botanical exotica. The updated interiors are the work of acclaimed set designer Boris Kudlicka, and lend a fresh, contemporary tone that goes hand in hand with Adam Komar’s menu. But behind the gels and emulsions and pretty little swirls, this is cooking of substantial depth; it’s cooking that takes you to the very soul of Polish nature. $$$ Biała Gęś (F8) ul. Belwederska 18A, tel. 22 840 5060, open 12:00-last guest (kitchen to 23:00); Sun 12:00-22:00, www.bialages.pl For that elegant touch of Zhivago-era class, it’s got to be Biała Gęś. Interiors conjure images of a countryside manor; you imagine rolling up here after a day shooting foxes. Yet it’s

Business lunch for 19pln for the month of March Le Cedre 61

opposite the zoo Al. Solidarności 61, Praga Tel 22 670 11 66

Le Cedre 84

opposite the court Al. Solidarności 84 Tel 22 618 89 99

www.lecedre.pl

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listings / restaurants not those blighters on the menu, but geese.

That’s the house specialty, and you’d do well to find better. A whole bird for four is yours for zł. 490. $$$

Czerwony Wieprz (Red Hog) (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 22 850 3144, open daily 12:0024:00 (kitchen to 23:00), www.czerwonywieprz.pl Now everyone is rich and happy, it’s easy to forget communism was a pretty dire experiment. Which

explains the playful nature of this commie themed restaurant. Dining is done under red banners and paintings of nasty political activists, while the menu is a humorous affair divided between dishes for the dignitary and proletariat – all details that saw it names as one of the Top 25 Unique Restaurants in the World. Another vodka, comrade, and the First Secretary’s pork loins while you’re there! $$ Dawne Smaki (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 49, tel. 22 465 83 20, open Sun-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-1:00, www.dawnesmaki.pl At last, a proper restaurant on Nowy Świat! The interiors hark to the past, while the back garden promises an oasis-like experience: if you’re new to Warsaw, it’s actually worth hanging around till summer just to see it. Chef Michał Bajerski, formerly of Regina Hotel, wraps it up nicely with a fantastic menu that modernizes traditional Polish recipes. Recommended: deer steak. $$ Delicja Polska (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 64, tel. 22 826 4770, open daily 12:00-last guest, www. delicjapolska.pl Looking stately (pink bows, gilt touches and immaculate linen) but never stuffy, Delicja have a modern Polish menu that includes sous-vide salmon marinated in beetroot leave, then topped with horseradish foam and dill emulsion. Brilliant. But then so was everything else we tried, including the exquisite seasoned roast beef. $$

Dom Polski (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 2432, open daily 12:00-last guest, www.restauracjadompolski.pl Almost like it was designed for the manor born, Dom Polski has the rarefied atmosphere of a country retreat: bow-tied staff who click their heels, decorative antiques and a menu that’s a sumptuous anthology of posh Polish cooking. When you need to give visitors a sense of classic Warsaw, Dom Polski is the first out of the hat. $$$

Folk Gospoda (B3) ul. Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605, open daily 12:00-midnight, www.folkgospoda.pl Be honest, sometimes all you want to do is

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slather lard on a big hunk of bread before surrounding yourself with little shots of ice cold vodka. You wouldn’t call it cultivated, but there are occasions when a good knees-up around a rough wooden table is exactly what’s required. And while you’re there, why not add platters of meat to the scene, a crackling fireplace and a mountain band. Folk Gospoda do all that making them the default favorite for a traditional night out. $$ Halka Restaurcja po polsku ul. Puławska 43, tel. 509 593 305, open Mon-Fri 11:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-22:00, restauracjahalka.pl Named in honor of one of Poland’s best known operas, Halka offer a glimpse of old school Warsaw. Having relocated from downtown Pańska, the new address is a cut and paste of the former location: lots of glinting surfaces, ornate crockery and pink flower arrangements. Innovation is surrendered for a menu that deals in classic interpretations of upmarket Polish food: rabbit, goose, duck and other animals shot on country estates.

Oycowizna ul. Słoneczna 241 (Lesznowola), tel. 22 713 8993, open 11:00-23:00, oycowizna.pl A bucolic country cottage set 20 clicks from Warsaw is home to this charmer of a hotel / restaurant. Filled with hanging pots, pans and horseshoes, there’s something authentically Polish about it all. Same goes for the menu, which is a deliciously filling rundown of the Old Polish kitchen. $$ Podwale Piwna Kompania (D2) ul. Podwale 25, tel. 22 635 6314, open MonSat 11:00-01:00; Sun 12:00-24:00, www. podwale25.pl Set through a courtyard that replicates a Mitteleuropa square, Podwale has a beer hall atmosphere that’s further exaggerated when mountain bands circulate.

Food is of average standard and served in portions that are obscene – finishing the wooden platters can be seriously traumatic.

Go there for the experience, if nothing else. $ Restauracja Polska “Różana” (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 22 848 1225, open 12:00-last guest, www.restauracjarozana. com.pl The rarified atmosphere of Różana is a pleasure indeed. Close to the frontline of Mokotów / Śródmieście, you’d never guess the proximity of the center. Seated in their garden, one feels removed from the city – a fountain burbles quietly in the background, starlings hop around the trees. From the

listings / restaurants inside, one hears the distant tinkle of the house pianist. Just being here is a thrill in itself, and the food is a Polish dining extravaganza served from the top table: farmhouse duck, saddle of venison, etc.

Słoik (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 600 396 688, open Mon-Fri 10:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-23:00, restauracjasloik.pl Jarheads will love Słoik, a place lined with glass jars brimming with colorful ingredients and bright preserves.

Find natural Polish produce and traditionalsounding dishes treated with a careful and contemporary hand. The approach pits modernist against classic, and the winner is, well, you. This is traditional Polish food updated for the discerning, latter day palate – and it’s really quite something. $$ U Fukiera (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 27 (Old Town Market Square), tel. 22 831 1013, open 12:00-last guest, www.ufukiera.pl New arrivals looking to get a grasp of local cuisine have many options in varying price brackets. U Fukiera is definitely in the big spend category, but visitors come away with a common sense of wonderment. That’s largely due to enchanting interiors that have guests exploring twinkling chambers that unravel like a fairytale. Set in a 500 year old townhouse, the beautiful backdrop is paired by a grand menu of duck, venison, veal and lamb. $$$ U Szwejka (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1710, open Mon-Fri 8:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-24:00, www.uszwejka.pl Named after the fictional Czech soldier Szwejk, the food here would certainly appeal to the tubby man himself. Bestowed with Prague street signs, the food is a hardy, meaty affair, and arrives in XXXL portions. The price to quantity (Note: not quality) ratio guarantees queues (yes, queues) that stretch out on the street every weekend, though it’ll be curious to see if the crowds still pack in following the loss of their alcohol license. Food like this really needs beer – without it, well, you be the judge. $$

Zapiecek Locations inc. ul. Nowy Świat 64, Al.

Jerozolimskie 28, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska 13, tel. 22 635 61 09, open 11:00-23:00 & ul. Wańkowicza 1, open 11:00-22:00, CH Arkadia, open 10:00-22:00, www.zapiecek.eu Seven Warsaw locales, with our favorite found in the vaulted passages of Świętojańska. The menu is highly traditional, with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’.

It’s for the pierogi though for which they’re famous; find approx. fifty types delivered by servers dressed like saucy country maids. $

steak houses

merliniego5.pl Set up like a New York bistro, Merliniego 5 is a cross between a wine bar and steakhouse. It’s sophisticated, but not snooty and has some truly excellent steak and salad. While they pride themselves on their 9+ rated kobe beef, it’s the USDA filet mignon that we rate as the top drawer – it’s sublime. $$$ Muu Muu (D2) ul. Moliera 8, tel. 22 465 1553, open daily 12:00-last guest A life-size cow with a menu chained around its neck stands outside as if to say: “turn back now, vegetarians.”

Butchery & Wine (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 502 3118, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00, www. butcheryandwine.pl Has it really been that long? Opened to wide acclaim in 2011, Butchery & Wine stirred Warsaw’s appetite for quality red meat. Served on wooden boards by staff in butchers aprons, the steaks are beyond reproach and the wine list suited to the meat fest in front. Many hail this as Poland’s best steak, and you can definitely see where they’re coming from. $$ Downtown Restaurant (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental Hotel, level 2), tel. 22 328 8745, open Mon-Fri for Breakfast 6:30-10:00; Sat 6:30-11:00, 12:00-15:00, 18:00-23:00; Sat 12:0016:00, Sunday Brunch 12:30-16:00, dinner 18:00-23:00 There’s now a few candidates for Warsaw’s best steak, and Downtown have certainly upped the erm, stakes, with their new menu. Yes, the doors of Downtown are a gateway to heaven – particularly true if, like us, your vision of heaven is a rich green field filled with fat, juicy cows. But don’t for one moment assume the offer ends with cows. Now added to their menu are other animalitos like kangaroo. $$$

RESTAURANT & COCKTAIL BAR

restaurant with a cocktail bar in the BUSTLING center of Warsaw, invites YOU to TASTE THE BEST OF Polish cuisine.

Hoża (D5) ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 603 778 275, open Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, hoza.warszawa.pl Wine and steak: it sounds so simple, but Hoża have taken two simple pleasures to another level. It’s a vibrant space with service right out of charm school, and a kitchen team with a real knowledge of cows. A red-blooded affair, the menu is a steak sensation and well paired with a handpicked wine list. $$ Merliniego 5 (E10) ul. Merliniego 5, tel. 22 646 0810, www. www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / restaurants Looking sparky, fun and engaging the décor is composed of light woods and soft touches, not to mention blackboard slogans such as ‘Eat Meat’ and ‘Love Bacon’. The heart of their act is indeed meat, and involves T-bone, rib eye, chateaubriand not to mention a few burgers. The standard is high, but so too the prices. Our otherwise excellent sirloin was spoiled somewhat by limp, soggy chips that came at zł. 10 extra. $$

Salto (C6) ul. Wilcza 73, tel.

22 584 8771, www. saltorestauracja.pl When Martin Gimenez Castro scooped top prize in the Top Chef program it simply confirmed what foodies had known for years: that this is a man of some talent. Now leading the kitchen in Salto, the highlight of Castro’s menu is undoubtedly the ‘steak weekends’. We challenge you to find better. During the week opt instead for his South American inspired dishes. Salto has the hallmarks of a success story, and under Castro’s captaincy that’s a certainty to happen. $$$

both over and undercooked. Not on our visit, though. Short and to the point, the menu is defined by its clarity, and we enjoyed a phenomenal yellow curry and banana fritters with the right combo of crunch and goo.

Beautifully decorated with charcoal colors and punches of lime, the Insider felt good long after visiting. Will you? $$ my’o’tai ul. Szpitalna 8 (enter on Górskiego), tel.

662 742 901, open Mon-Thu 12:00-24:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-3:00, Sun 12:00-21:00 While the menu lacks standard Thai dishes (no noodles!?), the tastes are thoroughly authentic and a credit to chef Trisno Hamidis. The caramelized spicy chicken wings are so good you’ll think about ordering them twice. $$

thai

Natara Old Town (D1) ul. Szeroki Dunaj 13, tel. 22 635 2501, open 11:00-23:00, www.natara.pl Last year saw Natara considerably outgunned by the competition, but it remains a top Thai choice.

Set inside the old town walls, the exterior looks magical, so it’s disappointing to find an interior that’s all dowdy brown and droopy plants. The food though remains consistently good thanks to an owner who is committed to true Thai tastes. $$

Basil & Lime (E8) ul. Puławska 27, tel. 22 126 1943, open 11:00-23:00, www.basil-lime.pl Reports have been hit and miss, with one Insider noting calamitous service and food that was

Naam Thai ul. Saska 16, tel. 505 110 100, open Mon 16:00-23:00; Tue-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-21:30 An anonymous design and an out-of-center location have done nothing to

hurt Naam’s reputation as Warsaw’s best Thai.

Bangkok-born Chanunkan Duangkumma is the reason for this success, and her duck soup – made according to a secret family recipe – is full of spices, depth and exciting twists. Book ahead to avoid disappointment. $$ Suparom Thai (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 45/49, tel. 22 627 1888, open daily 11:00-23:00, suparomthaifood.pl Lovely interior with Siamese gold ornaments and gleaming dark wood. The shrimp cakes are always worth a try. $$ Thai Thai (C2) Pl. Teatralny 3, tel. 601 818 283, open 12:0023:00 The loss of the original chef, Sanad Changpuen, has had a ripple-down effect on the final product. There’s a competence to the dishes, but a basic lack of fire and dazzle. It’s decent enough for Warsaw, but those who’ve had the real thing leave underwhelmed. What a shame that is, because in terms of design its little short of perfect: gold vaulted interiors lend a muted glow to a largely black on black space while serene looking Buddha’s peer on the diners below. $$ Why Thai (E5) ul. Wiejska 13, tel. 22 625 7698, open Sun-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00, www.whythai.pl A fresh attractive look, an authentic chef and a menu that doesn’t waffle on for pages and pages. But there’s something missing here, with the flavors not quite hitting the notes one expects. $$

Restauracja / Bar / Klub

ul. Nowy Świat 58, Warszawa | Al. Jana Pawła 9-11 (Aleja Topolowa), Gdynia www.bollywoodlounge.pl / Polub nas na Facebooku

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cafes & wine bars NEW & NOTEWORTHY

CUKIER PUDER (ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 63) There’s something charmingly old school about Cukier Puder, a patisserie that announces its mission with a burst of twinkly lights and an interior that’s heavy with floral accents and furry trimmings – you suspect that Barbara Cartland was heavily involved in the design. And the sensory assault continues with a counter bursting with cakes and pastries in an array of vibrant colors.

bakeries Café Vincent (D3) ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. 22 828 0115, open Sun-Thu 6:30-24:00; Fri-Sat 6:30-1:00 Ex-pats from France, a nation of master bakers if ever there were, profess Vincent to be their favorite Warsaw bakery. And they’re not alone. Queues build quickly as locals line up to buy baguettes, cinnamon rolls, lemon croissants and beautiful pains au chocolat.

But people don’t just head in then out, a small wine list and brilliant people spying opportunities cause most to linger.

Charlotte (D6) Al. Wyzwolenia 18 (enter from pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 662 204 555, bistrocharlotte. com The battle lines are drawn: on one side it’s the slobs of Plan B, and on the other the snobs of Charlotte. While the fancy crowd (all jangling Porsche keys and idiotic selfies) isn’t to everyone’s liking, Charlotte’s baked goods are commonly hailed as things of rare beauty.

Monique Bakery & Wine (D5) ul. Krucza 41/43, tel. 22 629 3974, moniquebakery.pl Reports have been hit and miss about Monique, with some citing spotty service and heavy handed prices. Even so, their baguettes and croissants always hit the mark.

Przystanek Piekarnia (D6) ul. Koszykowa 58, przystanekpiekarnia.pl The atmosphere is brisk and buzzing inside what’s emerged as the breadbasket of choice for Warsaw’s fashionistas. An interesting design authored by architect Maciej Kurkowski makes use of dozens of wooden slats that seemingly cascade from the ceiling, but make no mistake, the talking point is the bread and luxurious pastries.

KRUCZA 23 CAFÉ & BAKERY (ul. Krucza 23) They didn’t spend much time thinking about the name, that’s a given, but that’s not to say creativity has gone absent elsewhere. There’s lots of organic activity on the menu, plus an exciting spread of eco-coffee from far-flung nations. Find all this done in a postindustrial interior that makes use of lots of concrete and natural light.

SAM (E3) ul. Lipowa 7, tel. 606 836 836, www.sam.info.pl A central, communal table is flanked by smaller satellite tables for parties of two to four while perky seasonal blooms and potted herbs lend a spark of freshness. Co-owner Małgorzata KusinaDoran is a fine-bread connoisseur, honing her skills at a bread-making course chaired

by Raymond Blanc. www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / cafés & wine bars cafés Blikle (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 35 (check website for other locations), tel. 22 826 6619, open Mon-Sat 9:00-last guest; Sun 10:00-last guest, www. blikle.pl There’s a cultured, pre-war look to Blikle, a proud cafe with a 100 year history.

Famous former clients include Charles de Gaulle who swore by their donuts.

Bułkę przez Bibułkę (E8) ul. Puławska 24, tel. 794 000 634, open Mon-Fri 8:00-22:00; Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-16:00, www.bulkeprzezbibulke.pl There’s a feminine style to this cafe, what with its cute, girly pastels, petite plant pots and woodsy finishes. But no matter what your gender or age, there’s something immediately sunny and positive about this place.

Slow food sandwiches arrive on wooden boards, there’s pretty homemade desserts and a careful choice of wine: falling in love with it is easy.

Być Może (E7) ul. Bagatela 14, tel. 519 000 014, open 7:0023:00, www.bycmoze.com.pl It’s all about artisan bread and breakfast in the industrial looking Być Może. It’s taken the concept of Charlotte (groan, there’s even a communal table), and improved it with excellent breads and a crowd that’s a little less pleased with itself and a little more normal.

Café 6/12 (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 622 5333, open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-23:00, www.612.pl Famous for dispensing complex fruit and vegetable super smoothies, 6/12 have even introduced a full diet plan: pop-by for breakfast, then grab a goodie bag packed with balanced meals and snacks for the day ahead. Being healthy has never tasted better. Or looked better for that matter; the cavernous interiors are still very much the choice haunt for on-trend 30 something’s.

Chłodna 25 (B3) ul. Chłodna 25, tel. 604 614 287, open MonFri 9:00-22:00; Sat 11:00-22:00; Sun 12:0022:00 It’s back! Under new management, this Warsaw legend has been reclaimed from the hipsters and given over to the creative classes. A place of creaking floorboards, retro armchairs and bookshelves in the process of being filled, that this neighborhood hangout draws more than just neighbors is evidence

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of its greatness. And the really good bit?

They’ve now got beer (Bojan, Lwówek and Goralskie) – let joy be unconfined!

Christian’s Bakerhouse (E5) ul. Książęca 6, tel. 22 628 6345, open daily 9:00-21:00, www.bakerhouse.pl “Our chef places great emphasis on quality,” confided our waitress, and that’s no word of a lie. Numerous national breakfasts are represented, from nutritious kick-starters to a full British fry-up – which we’ve yet to see bettered by anywhere in Warsaw. The pet project of celebrity chef Krystian Zalejski – and not some nutty religious order as the name might suggest – the offer extends beyond breakfast to good Italian staples cooked with a twist.

Crepe Café (E3) ul. Dobra 19, tel. 22 121 2275, open 8:00-20:00 Is there such a thing as the perfect pancake? If not, then Crepe Café certainly comes close. Enjoy them in a contemporary interior that’s tiny in size: grab a seat up on the mezzanine level.

Czuły Barbarzyńca ul. Dobra 31, open 10:00-22:00; Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, czuly.pl A Parisian-style bookstore full of steps and wobbles, nooks and alcoves. All agree there’s something special here: maybe it’s the book selection – varied, esoteric and at once compelling. Or maybe it’s the atmosphere, such that browsers anchor themselves on the sofas to lose an afternoon with their nose in a novel while sipping drip coffee. Whatever the secret ingredient is, the bookish bustle makes it the most extraordinary literary hangout in the Polish capital.

Fawory ul. Mickiewicza 21, tel. 791 096 725, open Mon-Thur 8:00-22:00; Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat 10:00-23:00; Sun 10:00-22:00 An intimate neighborhood cafe that comes complete with mugs that announce: “Fresh Coffee Tastes Better”. You bet it does. The smoothies and regional beers are just as good though, and come served inside a white interior splashed with an awesome mural.

Kafka Café (E3) ul. Oboźna 3, tel. 22 826 0822, open 9:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-22:00, www. kawiarnia-kafka.pl A chessboard floor and a

collection of antlers on the wall characterize Kafka, a bookstore / café whose literary collection is composed of paperbacks rescued from recycling plants. Books are purchased by their weight (zł. 10 per kilo) while the menu includes pancakes, pastas and even doggy treats for your mutt.

Między Nami (D4) ul. Bracka 20, tel. 22 828 5417, open Mon-Wed 10:00-23:00; Thu 10:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun14:00-23:00, www. miedzynamicafe.com With 18 years of service under their belt you may think of Między Nami as being an antiquated has-been.

Not so. Haunted by a mix of media types and local characters, this hip white piece of post-commie Warsaw has an enduring, almost timeless appeal.

Ministerstwo Kawy (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 27/35, tel. 503 080 906, open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 10:0022:00, www.ministerstwokawy.pl Sourcing their coffee from Koppi, an internationally acclaimed Swedish roasting house, the ministry takes no short cuts in their pursuit of excellence. Utilizing Ethiopian, Costa Rican and Brazilian arabicas – some exclusive to Poland – barista Wojciech Rzytki has earned a reputation across Poland for his expert hand. Rave reviews are standard and appropriate in this standout cafe.

BEST WAWA 2014 “Coffee” MiTo (D6) ul. Waryńskiego 28, tel. 22 629 0815, open Mon-Fri 8:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-23:00, Café, gallery, bookstore. Of course, we’ve seen that concept before, just not done in this style. Stark white backgrounds are offset by edgy art, lending the place a Tate Modern feel, something accentuated by the earnest fashion students who gather through the day.

And there’s the toilet, a futuristic affair with piped music and a mirrored wall. my’o’my (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8 (enter from Górskiego), open Mon 11:00-22:00; Tue-Thu 10:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-21:00, www. myomy.pl Slightly rustic in design, with wooden panels painted white and winding stairs that lead to a charming second floor.

The baked goods are courtesy of baker extraordinaire Zofia Różycka, and the rest of the food offer is pretty grand as well. Its popularity with Warsaw’s mid-20s set makes it occasionally claustrophobic.

listings / cafés & wine bars Niezłe Ziółko Café & Deli (D5) ul. Krucza 17, tel. 664 844 439, open Mon-Fri 8:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 9:00-19:00 A shrine to pure and healthy eating, this friendly café doesn’t just brew a great coffee, but bakes its own bread and produces its own yogurt. Sit in the loft to look down on shoppers scurrying to Mokotowska, and on the way out, check out ‘Grandma’s Cupboard’ in the corner: jams, spreads and olive oils are there to buy for home.

Organic Coffee ul. Piękna 19, open Mon-Fri 7:30-21:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-19:00, organiccoffee. pl Consider the name a misnomer – it’s not just coffee that’s organic here, but practically everything else on offer. By their reckoning, 99% of the goods on offer are natural, and that includes their cakes, cookies, sandwiches and salads. Immediately relaxing, Organic thrives as a happening meeting spot throughout the day.

Państwo Miasto (B1) ul. Andersa 29, tel. 22 400 9446, open 9:00-24:00, panstwomiasto.pl Is there anything better than sitting in a café, book in hand, while spring sunshine pours through the windows? We go to Państwo to do just that, an echoy, cavernous café with a young, lively crowd that’s keen on scholastic events and political causes. Never does it feel too trendy, or too hipster – it’s a place that’s all about atmosphere and friendship.

Relaks (E9) ul. Puławska 48, open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00; Sat 9:00-19:00; Sun 9:00-18:00 Generally travelling by tram for a cup of Joe sounds excessive, but that’s exactly what you’ll be doing on discovering Relaks. Expertly prepared, right down to the foam art, the baristas here use the finest imported machines and work only with fair trade, ‘specialty’ coffee. If you have time, the drip coffees are more than worth the wait. The interiors supply a retro accent, and are lapped up by a very fashion aware crowd.

Stor ul. Tamka 33, open Mon-Fri 7:30-21:30; Sat-Sun 8:30-19:00 Small but perfectly formed, Stor has all the clack and clatter of a busy local café. Regional beers, Chemex and Aeropress coffee and gluten-free snacks and sandwiches provide plenty of reason to pop in and idle about.

Strefa (D7) Oleandrów 3, tel. 784 404 731, open Mon-Sat 9:00-20:00 A pleasing find, Strefa’s casual atmosphere is emphasized by a stack of board games and books in the corner – people come here to dwell and dawdle over hot coffee, craft beer, changing art and a slice of homemade cake. A strong sense of neighborhood prevails, with owners of neighboring businesses always swinging by for a chat and a chew.

Wypoczynkownia ul. Hoża 29/31, open Mon-Sat 7:30-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00, wypoczynkownia.pl While this place sounds like a Scrabble winner, its true role is as a fab neighborhood café that prides itself on its Arabicas and freshly-baked goods. Sporting a comfortably cosmopolitan style, the only improvement would be the forced confiscation of the requisite Keep Calm sign: get rid of it and the world is yours!

wine bars Ale Wino! (E5) ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 628 3830, open Mon-Tue 10:00-22:00; Wed-Sat 10:00-24:00, www.alewino.pl At first you think you’re walking into a car park. And then, it hits you – a beautiful inner-city sanctum with wooden decking, a slanted sail shielding the sun, and bespoke, funky chairs from the esteemed Studio Rygalik.

You want to dwell here for a bit longer than planned: and there’s no harm in doing so.

One of the Insider’s favorite wine bars, Ale Wino’s food is also top-notch. BEST WAWA 2014 “Wine Bar” Bristol Wine Bar (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmiescie 42/44. open 12:00-23:00 Effortlessly evoking a real sense of history, the design is a triumph with lots of polished brass and nickel, rich wood finishes and marble floors. You feel like you’ve stepped into a film. But talking points aren’t limited to the interiors alone. The wine selection was personally overseen by Robert Mielżyński, possibly the most esteemed wine importer in the country. And the choice is prodigious. Offering a complete cruise through the wines of the Old Continent and the New World, the collection is precisely presented from behind glass cases that line the walls.

Hoża (D5) ul. Hoża 25a, tel. 515 037 001, open MonSat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00, www.hoza.warszawa.pl You’ll probably know Hoża as the home of steak. But what is meat without wine? Complimenting the Argentineinspired cooking is a wine list particularly dense with reds.

Mielżyński Wine Bar (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 636 8709, open Mon-Fri 9:00-23:00; Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 11:30-17:00, www.mielzynski.pl Robert Mielżyński, a Canadian-born oenologist, awakened Warsaw’s love affair with the grape when he launched Mielżyński in 2004, and it continues to serve as the accepted benchmark to which all wine bars aspire.

Their cause is amply boosted by a fine selection of bites to accompany the superlative wine offer. Find it in a pared down warehouse that emanates casual city cool.

Portucale (E10) ul. Merliniego 2, tel. 22 898 0925, open 11:00-23:00, www.portucale.pl The rule here is to keep it simple. Stick to the truly amazing seafood and good house wine, both of which promise a terrific Portuguese experience. $$ VinoTrio ul. Marszałkowska 76, tel. 22 826 1697, open Mon 12:00-21:00; Tue-Fri 11:00-21:00; Sat 10:00-21:00, vinotrio.pl Specializing in French, Spanish and Italian wine, VinoTrio touts price points that appeal to all incomes – bottles begin at zł. 30. Despite the tight space the choice is extensive and the ambiance congenial.

Wejman ul. Zgoda 4, tel. 661 661 150, open 12:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-2:00 The owners cooperated closely with acclaimed importer Guillaume Deliancourt to assemble a stock list dominated by Southern European – especially French – and New World wine. Try before you buy at this hotly trending wine bar.

WinKolekcja (E10) ul. Olkuska 7, tel. 22 542 8031, open Mon-Sat 12.00-23.00; Sun 12.00-20.00, www.winkolekcja.pl The selection of New World wines is exceptional, though classicists are also catered for via an extensive choice of Spanish, French and Italian wines. Their highly recommended restaurant provides further reason to linger inside a design that has the routine look of a club class lounge. www.warsawinsider.pl

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nightlife NEW & NOTABLE

DWA OSIEM (ul. Zamoyskiego 26A) If you thought the Praga area was starting to lose its edge and originality then you couldn’t have been more wrong.

Take Dwa Osiem, a way cool bike shop serving a second purpose as a minimalist café with a classroom aesthetic. We’ve seen all that before, you might say, but then night falls: enter trendy young party creatures and imported DJs. Check their Facebook for details of events.

bars & pubs 6 Cocktails (E5) ul. Mokotowska Taking its lead from the New York fad for covert bars, the 6 adventure begins in front of a heavy arched gate. Ring the bell, await the buzz of approval and then find yourself summoned into rambling apartment that feels sultry and sensual. Complete with a shadowy smoking lounge and a whirlpool tub in the bathroom, it’s the best secret in Warsaw.

To enjoy the bespoke cocktails yourself, message them on Facebook and await your invite…

Bazar (F1) ul. Jagiellońska 13, tel. 508 321 264, open 12:00-last guest There’s Krusovice, Bernard and Staropramen on tap, and the Czech slant is lent added meat by a series of evenings held in cahoots with the Czech Cultural Centre – it’s during boozy disco nights the party spills into a shadowy cellar with light retro hints. On ground level its raw and industrial with asphalt colors and overhead pipes. You wouldn’t expect it, but the margaritas are smashing.

Beirut (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, open daily 12:00-4:00, www.beirut.com.pl As hip as ever, Beirut has walls dusted with cult album covers, documentary posters and witty graffiti inspired by Banksy. Busy in the day, and absolutely packed at night, order unconventional beers (Noteckie, English ale, Erdinger) from androgynous staff standing behind a sandbag bar decorated with silver hand grenades and a model tank.

VYCESKA (ul. Polinezyjska 10) As welcome as the craft revolution has been, there are times you just want a good honest pint – so how about this, a multitap whose zoom is focused on all things Czech. There’s eight taps and a wealth of bottles to negotiate as well as a small menu of food designed to sustain protracted drinking sessions. All of a sudden moving out to Ursynów seems a rather smart idea.

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Berlin-Warszawa Express (D5) Most Poniatowskiego (corner of Kruczkowskiego and al. 3 Maja), open 18:00-1:00; Fri-Sat 18:00-3:00 Set up a flight of stairs, a concrete footbridge at the top links the two bars either side: Berlin and Warszawa. It’s a Matrix moment, the red pill or the blue? Berlin’s the better, with industrial cage lights, and salvaged DDR memorabilia. Surveying the scene, it’s all wobbly tables, sticky surfaces and tight little alcoves fitted into impossible spaces.

A great dive bar, the friendly nature of Berlin gets even friendlier after a few craft brews.

listings / nightlife Bierhalle (A1) Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), ul. Nowy Świat 64, ul. Marszałkowska 55/73, open 11:00-last guest, bierhalle.pl Having tapped their first beer six or seven years back, their microbrewery have morphed into a national phenomenon with outposts across the country. All three Warsaw locations have a cut/paste Bavarian atmosphere, hefty wooden fittings and waitresses dressed like mountain frauleins.

Bollywood Lounge (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, tel. 22 827 0283, open Sun-Thu 12:00-3:00; Fri 12:00-6:00; Sat 14:00-6:00, www.bollywoodlounge.pl Now on Nowy Świat, the team have used the opportunity to upgrade their offer: gone is that low-rent feel of old, replaced in favor of a more classy look and a slicker crowd.

What has remained constant is the energy.

Ace cocktails (recommended: Jim Ban Chili), tottering talent and a range of sheesha pipes make it a weekend must, though the big news is the completion of their downstairs club: check it out for the bright, banging beats of the Bollywood sound.

Bubbles Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 512 540 913, open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 12:0024:00; Sun 12:00-18:00, bubbles.com. pl Despite sounding like a 90s small town nightclub, Bubbles is in fact a worthy place of note: a small, warm venue with a slow food menu and a design that incorporates lots of upturned crates and dusty bottles.

Champagne is the main draw here, with many labels that are exclusive to Poland. Some come with terrifying prices, but on the whole the price points are widely accessible: wine from zł. 10 and a flute of champers from zł. 29.

Chmielarnia (B5) ul. Twarda 42 (basement level), tel. 22 890 77 05, open Mon-Thu 11:00-24:00; Fri 11:00-2:00; Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 12:0024:00, www.chmielarnia.waw.pl A subterranean multi-tap found in the depths of the fishing institute. Artisan beers rule the roost here (there’s 15 taps and stacks more beer in the fridge), a point underlined by a glass coffin of mainstream garbage. While the bar gets loud and rackety, sweaty and sticky, that’s balanced out by a rotating beer offer that’s moderately priced plus a friendly, earnest audience that’s all beer geeks and know-it-alls.

Column Bar ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44 (Hotel Bristol), open 10:00-1:00 Just the look of Column Bar sweeps you off your feet; there’s something breathlessly classy about it, like you’ve just entered Gatsby’s ballroom. You want to order a pyramid of champagne and dance on their piano. Behave, and order a cocktail instead. For a taste of the classics, the Column Bar is peerless: no one does it better, whether it’s a restorative Bloody Mary, or a finely crafted Mojito.

Cuda Na Kiju (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, tel. 662 006 106, open 10:00-2:00, www.cudanakiju.pl Warsaw’s multi-tap revolution started here!

This sleek space comes drenched in sunlight that slants through the four glass walls, while the shaded courtyard is frequently utilized for various one off events and food truck meets.

Find 15 taps dispensing regional and craft brews as well as quirky imports from Czech, Belgium and beyond.

Cześć (C3) ul. Grzybowska 2 (through the side passage), tel. 505 695 512, open 16:00-last guest,2 www.czesc.waw.pl It started as a café, but now Cześć is better known as being at the forefront of the new generation of ‘quali-tap’ bars – small little places with six or so new wave beers on tap. The two owners, Piot and Kuba, take their beer seriously, so do expect plenty of new finds as well as traditional favorites from stalwarts like the Artezan and Pinta breweries. The laidback, neighborhood atmosphere is making it increasingly popular with a tight-knit circle of ex-pat drinkers.

Elephant Belgian Pub (C1) ul. Freta 19, tel. 532 742 400, open Mon-Thu 14:00-23:00; Fri-Sun 12:00-23:00 Signposted by a jolly, dancing elephant, this Belgian pub presents its cause the moment you enter – there’s twenty or so taps laid right out in front, and to the left a fridge that’s expected to top out to cover 200 beers. The design is basic – brickwork, beer kegs and varying ephemera of the brewing trade – but it doesn’t need that much more: it’s about the beer, after all.

Gorączka Złota (D5) ul. Wilcza 29, tel. 22 625 6855, open MonFri 13:00-24:00; Sat 17:00-24:00, www.goraczka-zlota.com.pl Founded in 1996, Złota’s longevity is to be admired,

even if the interiors aren’t. Small, dark and a little pungent, the interiors are rendered out of little more than varnished wood and hundreds of beer coasters. But that’s the clue! The secret of their success is down to the beer. Stocking a range of regional and craft beer (Ale Browar, Pinta, Kormoran, AltenMunster, Olbracht, etc.), this unfashionable bar has an underlying honesty that makes it a success.

Hard Rock Cafe ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, open daily 9:00-24:00, hardrockcafe.pl Full throttle cocktails, lively staff and a classic rock soundtrack: the energy of HRC is hard to find fault with. And on the rare occasion there is a lull in the night, use the opportunity to sniff around memorabilia that includes a black leather number once worn by Madonna.

Hopsters Al. Jana Pawła II 45 (enter from ul.

Nowolipki), open Mon-Thu 15:00-24:00; Fri 15:00-2:00; Sat 13:00-2:00; Sun 13:00-22:00 You get the idea they could have done a bit more with the interior, though the tendency is to overlook this. After all, any bar that goes to the trouble of fitting twenty taps deserves a bit of leeway. And fine things they are, these taps of theirs. There’s usually a couple of foreign guests on the day-to-day menu (Mikeller, Lindemans), but the main draw is undoubtedly from domestic brew houses like AleBrowar and Artezan, not to mention rising stars such as Doctor Brew and Podgórz.

Jedna Trzecia ul. Wilcza 52, tel 605 589 588, open MonThu 16:00-24:00; Fri 16:00-2:00; Sat-Sun 14:00-24:00 Unbeknown to some publicans, craft beer is not a numbers game – it’s not about how many taps you have, it’s about what comes out of them. This lot understood that from the start. Quality control is stringent, yet aside from pouring the perfect pint (every time), Jedna Trzecia have a choice that reflects the latest developments on the global craft scene: rare find international brews are a specialty and presented in an industrial, concrete space softened by it’s mustard lighting and laidback audience.

BEST WAWA 2014 “Craft Beer Bar” Kita Koguta (E5) ul. Krucza 6/14, tel. 512 307 284, open Mon-Thu 8:00-24:00; Fri 8:00-2:00; Sat www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / nightlife 16:00-2:00 Free from the pompous prattery of Bar Max down the road, there are times in Kita Koguta where sitting at bar level is like watching Dexter’s Laboratory: the staff aren’t afraid to get imaginative, and that includes serving cocktails in smoking coconut husks.

Not all the experiments go as planned, but that’s part of the thrill – for a failsafe, order the Viterbo Breakfast: it looks like something that came out of a drainpipe, but it’s delicious!

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daily 12:00-4:00 Named after one of the ocean’s most feared mythical creatures (the scary squid from Pirates of the Caribbean), the wood-clad Kraken features a wall of cymbals, heavy furniture and some interesting photography. While there’s some decent bottles of rum, there’s perhaps not enough to justify calling it a rum bar. The house beer rocks though.

Kufle i Kapsle (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 25, tel. 22 127 7218, open Mon-Thu 14:00-2:00; Fri 14:00-4:00; Sat 12:00-4:00; Sun 12:00-2:00, www. kufleikapsle.pl Ten tap and two pump beers offer a magnificent spread of daily changing beers, and the good news continues with the choice in the fridge: there’s 120 beers down there, so gamble on a rather jolly night. Interiors are balanced with the prewar heritage of the building, and are already thick with noise, clamor and the welcome scent of beer and spillage.

Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri 11:0002:00; Sat 12:00-02:00, Sun 12:00-23:00, www.legendsbar.pl Celebrating their fourth anniversary this September just gone, Legends is slowly edging its way to legendary status amongst the ex-pats and Anglophiles.

It’s all helped by touches like a segregated smoking room, a proper darts board, Sky Sports and a traditional menu that’s as authentically English as the Downing Street cat. Most of all though, the success is down to the sense of community fostered over long quiz nights, shouty karaoke competitions and other such events. Presiding over it all is Graham, a seasoned expat and Everton nut.

Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’ (D4) Enter from ul. Nowy Świat 26 Approximately twenty bars occupy a series of low-budget prefabricated cabins, presenting possibly the highest density of bars in the capital: in summer, it feels like one big street party.

Adding to the gentle sense of confusion comes the realization that so many bars look the same – accessed through clattery, barred doors, visitors walk into what can only be described as murk. Klaps, with its dildo beer taps and phallic walls, is probably the most well-known of the lot.

OSP Saka Kępa ul. Walecznych 74, tel. 603 103 888, open

Mon-Thu 15:00-24:00; Sat 13:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-22:00, www.ospsaskakepa.pl A little on the small side, the interior features several bits of Fireman Sam detritus: helmets, goggles, a uniform and some toy fire trucks (it’s in a fully functioning fire station!).

Panorama Bar and Lounge (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 630 6306, open Mon-Sun 18:002:00, www.panoramabar.pl An elegant bar that would easily pass for the VIP room of a well-to-do club. A floor 40 location makes it great for a date: the sunset views are dazzling.

Paradox (B1) ul. Anielewicza 2, tel. 691 472 969, open Sun-Thu 10:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-2:00; Sun 10:00-23:00, www.paradox-cafe.pl Billing themselves as a ‘sci-fi / gamers / role play asylum’ this is a cradle of geeks, nerds and people who collect serial killer memorabilia. Decorated with plastic black crows, a map of Mordor and figurines of goblins, watch as oddly attired suspects engross themselves in ‘for hire’ games with names like Hobbit and Bewoulf.

Patera (C4) ul. Świętokrzyska 36, tel. 535 333 123, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:001:00; Sun 11:00-23:00, www.patera.com.pl Patera fill a binary role: first as an Asian eatery, and second as a cocktail bar. And my, what cocktails. Offering several classics, and a few modern creations, the Ginger Peach Collins became our cocktail of choice during summer 2014. The reopening of Świętokrzyska should lead a few more people through the door – they’ll like what they see.

Pies Czy Suka (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8A, tel. 22 881 83 73, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-1:00; Sun 16:00-23:00, www.piesczysuka.com Monochrome gun metal grey colors are offset by a fashionable crowd attired in red shoes, pink trousers and blue headphones.

This clean, concrete space is speckled with plaster moldings of reindeer heads, and excels on the cocktail front. Order from an iPad menu, before settling back for cocktails made using mad scientist, molecular techniques that involve foam, vapor, beakers and other things you’d usually find in Professor Yaffle’s lab.

listings / nightlife Piw Paw na Foksal (E4) ul. Foksal 16, tel. 534 734 945, open 16:00-last guest, piwpaw.pl If the original Piw Paw was marketed as a ‘hyper tap’ then what’s their sister on Foksal? There’s 97 taps (!!) though one gets the sense its more about numbers than quality – we’ve seen Beck’s, for Pete’s sake. Getting service can be a nightmare, and while there’s a smoking room, it’s got the warmth and ambience of a night down the police station.

Plac Barcelona (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 18, tel. 501 988 768, open Sun-Thu 9:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 9:00-1:00 Those who think this area’s star has waned need look no further than Plac Barcelona, a pristine bar with a star studded clientele. The interiors feature stark white colors and an interesting multi-level seating arrangement.

Most, however, prefer to give themselves maximum exposure and do both their sipping and sitting outdoors.

Plan B (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 508 316 976, open Mon-Sun 11:00-last guest.

Plan B is the very essence of dive Warsaw.

Weekends pass by in a raucous blur, with the party spilling out under the colonnades outside – it helps to look like a DJ, but in truth everyone is welcome. The hangover from this shabby, grubby bar is traumatic.

Polonez (D5) ul. Poznańska 24, tel. 604 942 169, open Sun-Wed 10:00-1:00; Thu 10:00-2:00; Fri-Sat 10:00-3:00 Sparse milk bar chic is set against plenty of oddities (black and white Cybulski films, a set of antlers, hordes of junk), but the cool aesthetics only tell a part of the story. This is a celebration of Poland, both old and new, with drinks that include obscure nalewki, craft local beers, bio drinks and regional tipples. The masterstroke comes in making this all feel international, contemporary and creative.

Secado (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 66, tel. 608 707 799, open Mon-Fri 10:00-23:00; Sat 11:0024:00; Sun 12:00-23:00 Most part restaurant, bit part bar, there’s a flexibility here that has turned it into one of those places where people meet, eat and generally hangout – not always in that order. And as for the drinks, they’re really very good. Using their own mixes, Secado present a succinct list of must-try cocktails. Try their best seller: the Bloody Hell. Using Chopin vodka infused with horse radish, pirri pirri and basil, this pimped out version of the Bloody Mary incorporates chili syrup and wasabi in a high octane drink that kicks like a mule.

Sketch w Teatrze Wielkim (D2) Pl. Piłsudkiego 9, tel. 602 762 764, open 12:00-1:00, sketch.pl Here’s a multi tap bar designed with a very specific crowd in mind: glam stylists, models with sleeve tattoos and other vapid morons. Looking bold, bright and brash, this is just about the worst tap bar Warsaw has ever seen. The beer aspect is purely incidental. You get the idea this mob would be here if the pipes were hooked up to the udders of a cow – so long as milk was in fashion. Yuck.

Słoik (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 600 396 688, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri 11:00-24:00; Sat 12:0024:00; Sun 12:00-22:00, restauracjasloik. pl Słoik looks bright, loud and vibrant, so it’s no surprise to learn their cocktail maestros

specialize in maverick creations. A source of particular pride are drinks that celebrate Poland: we’re talking about vodkas infused with juniper and vanilla, then mixed with marmalades and other exotica like pickled cucumber juice. The tastes are unique and leave you bandy-legged and shouting for more.

Spiskowcy Rozkoszy (D5) ul. Żurawia 47/49, tel. 796 671 950, open Mon-Thu 16:00-24:00; Fri-Sat 16:00-1:00; Sun 16:00-23:00, www.spiskowcy.pl The ground floor is an intimate space with lots of yet-to-be-famous beers and junky, antique furniture that reminds of the Boho hangouts in Kraków. But what was a packed, little bar is now a packed, big bar with the opening of the basement: find a labyrinth of rooms and psychedelic toilets with pulsating lights – you soon wonder who spiked your drink. And oh, the drinks.

Expect IPA and APA beers served from the six taps.

W Oparach Absurdu ul. Ząbkowska 6, open Sun-Mon 12:002:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-4:00 Hidden under Persian rugs, velvety drapes and reclaimed antiques, some still refer to it as The Spider Bar in reference to the giant tarantula that once hung from the wall. There’s an air of louche 60s living here, and it gets weirder when bands with names like the Bum Bum Orchestra enter to play trumpets amongst vodka-tipping guests.

Same Krafty (D1) ul. Nowomiejska 10, tel. 22 831 98 75, open 15:00-last guest Set across two small, rugged rooms, Same Krafty gets populated by an organic combination of tourists, couples and beer enthusiasts. There’s ten taps from which to choose, and a fridge with several interesting international beers. The Old Town doesn’t have much to shout about when it comes to nightlife, so Same Krafty’s debut is more than welcome.

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listings / nightlife Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 621 8622, open Mon-Sun 12:00-last guest, www.warsawtortillafactory.pl Warsaw’s premier sports pub: and it’s not just the extent of their sporting offer that elevates WTF, but the atmosphere. Whether it’s international rugby, or Bristol City on a Tuesday night, the tension, camaraderie and horseplay are unmatched. On the occasions when there is no sport, swing by for live bands and a lively atmosphere fueled by a heady mix of ex-pats, international students, and locals bewildered by it all. The recent addition of boutique beverages such as Brew Dog and Thistly Cross has gone down a treat.

Platinium (D3) ul. Fredry 6, tel. 694 413 439, open Thu-Sat 21:00-6:00. www.platiniumclub.pl The place if you’re rich or beautiful – but preferably both. Large and spectacular you’ll need to be dressed to the nines to reap the rewards that lie inside: featuring the most eye candy per sq/m in Europe, you might not find Mr/Mrs Right, but you will find Mr/Mrs Right for Now.

You & Me ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 379 0379, open Mon-Thu 8:00-24:00; Fri 8:00-2:00; Sat 12:00-2:00; Sun 12:00-24:00, youandmebar.pl The dreaded restobar concept doesn’t always work, but You & Me manage to get both the food AND the drink right. And in their case, that mean innovative cocktails enjoyed by an after-work crowd of posey city slickers. The terrace is where the action is at.

Sen Pszczoły ul. Gorochowska 301/305, tel. 530 360 060, senpszczoly.pl Famous, infamous or a bit of both? Moving from their temporary digs in the Koneser Factory, the new-look Sen Pszczoły is every bit as murky as the previous: amid a heavy industrial background, find partygoers enjoying a mixed bag of events that range from didgeridoo performances to full-on techno that makes fillings pop out. Full review next month.

clubs

gentleman’s clubs

De Lite (E5) ul. Marii Konopnickiej 6, tel. 792 014 166, www.deliteclub.pl This place definitely figures highly in the ‘bubbles and beauties’ stakes. Scantily clad dates bop along sipping on martinis, flirting and dancing, while exposed brick and pipes, raw concrete and an interesting mirror setup in the bathrooms add to the futuristic, spaceship interior.

Playhouse (B3) Al. Solidarności 82A, tel. 794 007 000, open 21:00-4:00, www.playhouse.pl Not here gorilla gangsters on the door or pushy girls doing the rounds (“buy me drinky drinky”).

Instead, Playhouse models itself on the top class mega clubs such as Spearmint Rhino, and the result is a subterranean space removed from the sleaze and murk usually associated with the industry. But you want to know what the girls are like, yeah? Let the fact askmen.com voted it their favorite strip in the world speak for itself.

Foksal XVIII (E4) ul. Foksal 18, open Fri-Sat 10:00-4:00 Billed as one of the top ‘rich and pretty’ clubs in the capital, Foksal features a competitive ‘look at me’ spirit and flash interiors that are all chandeliers and champagne. Cardboard animal shapes hanging from the bar inject much needed humor to this cream of the crop club. Don’t even think of trying to gain entry without first tipping a bottle of aftershave down your pants.

Luztro (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, open Wed-Thu 22:00-10:00; Fri-Sat 24:00-14:00, www. luztro.pl Feeling naughty? Luztro enjoys a reputation for libertine behavior and illicit pharmaceuticals. Dark, grim and grotty, this

after party stalwart gets going at about 4 a.m. on weekends, when troglodyte club creatures emerge zombie-like to dance way past sunrise. Jaw grinding, rib rattling electro has never felt better.

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live music Basen (E5) ul. Konopnickiej 6, tel. 696 058 944, open Fri-Sat 21:00-6:00, www.artbasen.pl Get this, you’ll be doing your dance steps in what was formerly Warsaw’s first public swimming pool. Featuring a line-up of live bands and some of the top electronic acts around, this is definitely one to add to the watch list.

Bistro na Pięknej (D6) ul. Piękna 20, tel. 22 627 4151, open

Mon-Fri 11:00-24:00; Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-23:00, www.jazzone.pl A slick looking jazz spot that’s seen the benefit of a recent overhaul. Valued additions include a less austere style and what at times might feel like Warsaw’s only fireplace. Popular with a smart city crowd, keep an eye out for their live acts.

Chwila (B3) ul. Ogrodowa 31/35, tel. 22 401 1754, open 12:00-last guest; Sun 15:00-last guest Entered under a red, cabaret-style awning, Chwila is a reject factory space turned good.

Furry cushions, patchwork quilts and student art vie for attention alongside iron girders and industrial leftovers inside what is becoming known as one of the top alternative music venues this side of the river. The toilet alone, papered with trillions of cool posters and magazine covers, is a reason to linger.

Pardon To Tu (C4) Pl. Grzybowski 12/16, tel. 513 191 641, open 10:00-4:00, www.pardontotu.pl Decorated in voluptuous brothel colors, the design involves mismatched seats, tilted lampshades and a relaxed arthouse look popular with creatives and other fringe dwellers. The live talent ranges from moody quartets to jazzy chanteuses, while a perfect marriage of late hours and great bottled beers helps along the enthusiastic crowd of latter day beatniks.

Tygmont Jazz Club (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 6/8, tel. 22 828 3409, www.tygmont.com.pl, open daily 16:00-4:00 For true jazz lovers, Tygmont is a breath of fresh air in a city up to its ears in terrible acoustics.

shot bars Bar Warszawa ul. Miodowa 2, open 14:00-4:00 Creak upstairs to find a warm space filled out with sofas and nostalgic decorations such as vintage radios and photos of bare breasted prostitutes. Run as a side project by a TV producer, flexible opening hours mean it doesn’t always close at the stated 4 a.m.

Meta ul. Mazowiecka 11 / Foksal 21 / Parkingowa 5 Chains of old bog paper, Karol Gott album covers and other Communist keepsakes litter this shot bar. But for a real blast to the past, visit their Parkingowa venue for a full-on, Polski-style retro disco. It’s hilarious.

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shopping accessories Bath & Body Works ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00, ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 The famed American brand signals its arrival to Europe with the launch of their Warsaw branch. Now fans of the brand can experience first-hand luxurious fragrant body care, hand and home collections.

Customers can discover sophisticated fragrances, test shower gels and soaps at the sink area, and try everything from body lotions to home fragrances.

FIVE OF THE BEST: Book Stores BOOKOFF (ul. Ogrodowa 7, www.bookoff.pl) A cult bookstore filled with trendy fashion and design bibles, photography albums, on-trend cookbooks and grown-up comics. You could potentially end up spending really rather heavily. Cook Off, a sister bookshop specializing in cook books, is found on Żelazna 61.

DOM SPOTKAŃ Z HISTORIĄ (ul. Karowa 20, www.dsh.waw.pl) Look no further for books on modern Polish / Warsaw history. Of particular note are the picture heavy coffee table tomes that focus on Poland’s immediate pre-war, occupation and socialist years. Boffins are happy to spend hours browsing.

EMPIK (Various locations, empik.com) When only best-sellers and Penguin Classics will do most revert to Empik, namely their stores Nowy Świat and Marszałkowska branches. The choice is pretty pedestrian but gems are to be found every now and again.

FUNDACJA BĘC ZMIANA (ul. Mokotowska 65/7, www.beczmiana.pl) A tiny, curiosity shop retailing hipster t-shirts, trendy trinkets and a fair amount of arty books with a strong slant towards contemporary Warsaw.

SUPER SALON (ul. Chmielna 10, tel. 22 468 1619, open Mon-Sat 11:00-19:00, www. supersalon.org) The sort of titles you find in a cool New York magazine store: Apartmento, Elephant, The Gourmand, Kinfolk, Cereal, Aperture, and Gather. And check out the amazing art books published by the likes of Steidl, Mack, Gestalten and Powerhouse.

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Batycki (various locations) Bozena Batycka’s sleek, simple handbag designs are made with italian leather. While her products are not inexpensive by Polish standards, their uniqueness combined with substantial durability make them a perenial favorite.

BeautyLab Polska ul. Belwederska 20/22, beautylabpolska.pl Rated as one of the biggest names in global cosmetics, the range of treatments run from anti-ageing to daily body care and essential skin care.

Glamstore ul. Narbutta 83 (entry from ul. Łowicka), tel.

794 689 090, open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-15:00 Widely hailed by Poland’s fashion glossies, this store sells modern furnishings with all the trimmings and colours you could ask for. They also stock kitchen and bathroom accessories, as well as touting their own jewelery line.

HOS&me ul. Mokotowska 63, tel. 22 625 0881, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 12:00-15:00, www.mokotowska63.com Luxury jewelry and the best in the biz. In stock: high end treasures from Nialaya, Lene Bjerre Design, Ti Sento, Christensen and Dryberg/Kern.

Impossible Project ul. Mysia 3, tel. 884 867 518, open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-18:00. The

listings / shopping Polaroid comes back to life in Impossible Project, a place with refurbished original cameras as well as new film formula.

Kate Roxs ul. Radna 10, kateroxs.eu Beyond the slightly creepy / fetishistic window display (leather Roman body armor), this store has earned a reputation for high quality, natural leather bags. “Our inspiration,” says Kate, “comes from women, not trends.”

Lilou ul. Mokotowska 63, tel. 22 403 19 19, open Mon-Fri 11:19:00; Sat 11:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-16:00, www.lilou.pl Modular jewelry made simple, and a must for all Warsaw fashionista.

Mo61 ul. Mokotowska 61, tel. 601 652 593, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, mo61.pl Billed as a ‘perfume laboratory’, Mo61 is the only place in Poland that allows customers to create their own scents. Under the expert guidance of staff trained by Zygmunt Marczewski (“the best nose in Poland”!), visitors compose their own perfumes inside a beautifully renovated pre-war space.

Pingle Optyk ul. Hoża 40, tel. 798 025 505, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-14:00 A collection of hand-selected eyewear that is serious in terms of quality control, but entirely whimsical when it comes to design. Yes, you’ve got your ubiquitous Ray Ban classics, but you’ve also got the electric blue version. You’ve got your Chanel and YSL classics, then there are the leather-trimmed frames from Paul Smith and many more funky models straight from Paris.

Victoria’s Secret Beauty & Accessories ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 665 625 618, open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00, ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), tel.

22 541 4141, Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 An assortment of Victoria’s Secret Beauty products including fun and flirty fragrances, such as Bombshell, as well as the scented VS Fantasies body care range.

For that glam girl-on-the go, expect to find a wide range of Victoria’s Secret branded bags, luggage, passport covers and small

leather goods to cosmetic bags, bangles and key fobs.

fashion American Eagle Outfitters Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (C. H. Arkadia), tel. 665 625 639, ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), tel. 605645289, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00 American Eagle brings you high-quality, on-trend clothing and accessories inspired by a denim heritage that truly expresses individual style.

Ania Kuczyńska ul. Mokotowska 61, tel. 22 622 02 76, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-16:00 Ania Kuczyńska is becoming well known for her highly fashionable, minimalist clothing designs. The store also carries adorable baby clothes and various accessories.

Designer Secret ul. Mokotowska 39 (courtyard), tel. 506 051 048 or 511 649 493, open Mon-Fri 11:0019:00; Sat 11:00-17:00; Sun 11:00-15:00, www.designersecret.pl High end designer clothing brands at discount prices. The racks brim with ladies and mens apparel from the previous years’ collections, with price tags that read from one third to 50% off the original price.

Hard Rock Cafe ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, open daily 9:00-24:00, hardrockcafe.pl No wardrobe is complete without the iconic Hard Rock t-shirt! Find this classic piece of 70s design here, along with other extras for the all American look.

open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:0017:00, www.plactrzechkrzyzy.com Brands include: Christian Louboutin, Gianvito Rossi, Jimmy Choo, Kenzo, Moncler, Ralph Lauren, Simonetta Ravizza, Tod’s, Tom Ford, Tory Burch, Valentino and Yves Salomon and Fay. And also in the luxury baby corner: baby Dior, Dolce&Gabbana Kids, Kenzo Kids, Moncler Kids, Ralph Lauren Kids and Tod’s Kids.

Ptasia 6 ul. Ptasia 6, tel. 733 874 609, ptasia6.pl A unique ladies concept store showcasing the works of both emerging and established independent Polish fashion labels such as Eva Grygo, Confashion, Horror! Horror!, Kasia Miciak and Polanka.

Reykjavik District ul. Solec 18/20, tel. 501 399 222, open Tue-Fri 13:00-19:00; Sat-Sun 13:00-17:00, www.reykjavikdistrict.com Chic, well-cut menswear for all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal.

Safripsti ul. Oleandrów 3 Formerly a make-up artist in London and Paris, owner Magdalena returned to Poland to open a vintage boutique. Buying wholesale – meaning prices are kept in check – her fashion store presents finds like authentic cheerleader outfits and Hawaiian shirts for summer, not to mention a great selection of denim, parkers and so forth. And how about a classic Burberry mac for zł. 200?

She’s a Riot ul. Mokotowska 24, open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 12:00-16:00, shop. shesariot.com A fashion-forward label for grownups – women who hover between a rock-inspired, whimsical twist on a retro Mad Men silhouette.

Moliera 2 Boutique ul. Moliera 2, tel, 22 827 7099, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, Sat 11:00-16:00, www.moliera2.com Brands include: Balmain, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Gianvito Rossi, Herve Leger, Jimmy Choo, Kenzo, Moncler Gamme Rouge, Ralph Lauren, Simonetta Ravizza, Tory Burch, Valentino, Victoria Beckham and Yves Salomon.

Viola Śpiechowicz ul. Kolejowa 55 (Łomianki), tel. 518 920 124, open Mon-Fri 9:00-15:00, vsstore.eu/ violaspiechowicz.com Viola Spiechowicz is an inspiring, unpretentious and highly creative fashion designer who has cultivated her own original and inimitable style since her 1992 debut. Her designs are the result of a long search for the perfect form, texture and color scheme, lending each project its own unique style: be it fashion, upholstery fabrics or accessory design.

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, tel. 22 622 14 16,

Wake Up The Bear ul. Mokotowska 41, wakeupthebear.com www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / shopping Stylish ‘travel practical’ clothes as designed by the acclaimed Viola Spiechowicz. Featuring natural fabrics and multipurpose add-ons, this is the ultimate in comfort clothes.

home 3F Studio ul. Nowolipki 28b, tel. 22 651 5644, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-15:00, www.3fstudio.com.pl Offers furnishings and lighting from top contemporary Italian brands like BB Italia, Moroso, Living Divani, Desalto and Artemide. The in-house design team creates custom interiors for clients.

Le Pukka ul. Solec 58/60, lepukka.pl For interior inspirations take a look at Le Pukka: highly original furniture and decorative pieces for the home come from the likes of Smeg, AreaDeclic, HK Living and Zuiver.

MOOMO ul. Marynarska 15, tel. 22 360 4389, open Mon-Fri 11:00-20:00; Sat 11:00-15:00, www.moomo.pl Fun furniture styles and innovative products. There are products from designers Joseph Joseph as well as a range of prestigious Scandinavian nd European brands, among whose number are Marimeko, Muuto, Kähler, Normann Copenhagen and Design House Stockholm.

Pies Czy Suka ul. Szpitalna 8A, tel. 22 881 8373, piesczysuka.com Husband and wife team Beata Konarska and Paweł Konarski push the boundaries of creativity in a home design store that’s heavy with statement pieces: life sized moldings of animals, illuminated Jesus statues, edgy art, etc.

Red Poppy ul. Lekarska 9, tel. 516 894 4306, www. redpoppy.pl. (open by appointment only) Being the first hand-printing design studio in Poland, they focus primarily on making one-of-a-kind wallpapers as well curtains, lampshades, and cushions. And a good product it is: a series of Justyna Medoń’s patterns won the 2012 Must Have Prize at the Łódź Design Festival.

Reset Point ul. Puławska 48 sklep.resetpoint.pl A treasure trove of renovated antique furniture, vinyl clocks, 70s style handle-less PRL

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mugs and modern art prints of legendary landmarks such as Dworzec Centralny and the Palace of Culture. Plenty of pieces and curios from upcoming and established domestic design studios.

SH Studio ul. Wilcza 44, s-h-studio.pl Art, interior design and furniture are married together inside a tiny store stacked with beautiful antique and retro pieces that have been refurbished and redesigned to lend them a contemporary edge. An amazing place with surprisingly modest prices.

Spod Lady ul. Chmielna 26, spodlady.com Step in and breathe in the atmosphere of communist Poland. This shop’s a beauty, and brims with collectibles that have seen classic PRL keepsakes given a contemporary update.

Books, films, bags, toys and general items for the home inside this cult courtyard store.

Take a Nap ul. Mysia 3 This two floor shop is full of bedtime accessories like comfy sheets, pillows, comforters and blankets, plus fun bits of furniture that merge the modern with a country living twist. Downstairs there’s a broader selection of bed frames, couches and mattresses.

malls & department stores Arkadia Al. Jana Pawła II 82, tel. 22 323 6767, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00, www.arkadia.com.pl Atelier Mokotowska 63 ul. Mokotowska 63, tel. 22 828 6789 Four levels of high end fashion, with Woolrich, Mason’s, Lardini, Boglioli, Borelli and Seventy all represented. Intimate, discreet and above all luxurious.

Blind Concept Store ul. Mokotowska 63/100, tel. 501 770 661 From established international names to upcoming local designers, consider Blind your one-stop fashion solution. Find it all from eclectic jewelry from Anka Krsytyniak and Chocokate, eyewear from Cheap Monday and Woodyglasses, killer heels from United Nude and Melissa & Vivienne Westwood, etc

Galeria KEN Center/E. Leclerc (Ursynów) ul. Ciszewskiego 15, tel. 22 389 8600, open Mon-Thur 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. www.kencenter.pl Galeria Mokotów ul. Wołoska 12, tel. 22 541 4141, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00, www.galeriamokotow.com.pl Klif House of Fashion ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4500, open Mon-Sat 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. www.klif.pl Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has everything from the excellent Alma supermarket to top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko.

Plac Unii ul. Puławska 2, tel. 22 204 0499, open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00, www.placunii.pl Warsaw’s latest mall counts Armani Jeans, Liu-Jo and Pandora amongst its upmarket tenants.

Mysia 3 ul. Mysia 3, tel. 603 767 574, open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00; Sun 12:00-18:00, www. mysia3.pl Hip department store that’s seen a few tenants come and go, yet has remained on the cutting edge in spite of it all. Set in Poland’s former censorship office, the line-up includes Scandinavian fashion in Cos, shoes from My Paris, unconventional fashion from Nenukko and more.

Vitkac Wolf Bracka Vitkac, ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7313, open Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00; Sun 11:00-18:00, www.likusconceptstore.pl Vitkac was made for with a credit card blitz in mind. Poland’s first luxury department store gathers the world’s top designers under one roof, with brands including Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton, Stella McCartney and Rick Owens.

And that’s the tip of the iceberg. Finish with dinner in the top floor Concept 13.

Wola Park (Wola) ul. Górczewska 124, tel. 22 533-4000, open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00, www.wolapark.com Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59, tel. 22 222 2200, open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00, www. zlotetarasy.pl Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Jatomi Health and Fitness Club.

family activities Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. 22 596 41 00, open Tue-Fri 9:00-6:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-7:00, www.kopernik.org.pl A brilliant array of science-inspired attractions that prove as stimulating for parents as they are for the kids. Check out Galeria BZZZ, an area designated for children up to six. In order to keep numbers manageable, expect entry times to be staggered.

TOP 3 FAMILY CAFES

The Marzenna is waiting at the door, ready to be tossed into the Vistula along with my full winter wardrobe. I’m already anticipating the joys of those bright morning strolls, exploring Warsaw’s diverse suburbs then sipping fresh lemonade and, dare I say it, eating al fresco! But if you have young children to think of then that casual stroll needs calculated planning. Obligatory snack and toilet stops are essential. Luckily Warsaw is overflowing with cafes to suit the needs of every individual and little people rank high on the priority list. Here’s three of the best…

CENTER

Kred Café (kredkafe.pl) Somewhere over the rainbow and on the doorstep of Ujazdowski and Łazienki Park lies this colorful, bright café/shop.

Wisely they’ve set a side a part for birthday celebrations so they never need to close the door. The lemonade will fizz up your day and the crepes guarantee you need to finish that stroll for exercises sake. If the sun is out then so are the bistro tables on the front pavement.

SASKA KĘPA PHOTOGRAPH BY GILL BOELMAN-BURROWS

Fiku Miku (fikumikucafe.pl) With the zoo, stadium and river close by this is a top location for exploration. The café is small but the owner’s imagination is big. Regular film/art workshops keep kids entertained. It’s also got a small fresh menu and outdoor seating (albeit on only two or three tables).

ŻOLIBORZ

Kalimba (kalimba.pl) An oldie and a goodie. No outdoor seating, but after all that fresh air in Park Stefano Żeromskiego you’ll all be glad to take a seat in one of the many nooks. This quirky café comes complete with a spiral stair encased tree house den, and plenty of homemade cookies and cakes. The penny style sweet counter is a winner. (GBB)

Fryzjerkowo ul. Foksal 12/14, tel. 22 827 2744, open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-18:00, www.fryzjerkowo.pl This 100% child friendly hair salon with jungle theme interior will guarantee no tears! Whilst having their locks chopped children sit in a toy car and watch a favorite DVD. Mum can peruse the retro toys and classic books on sale. Owner speaks excellent English. Advance booking recommended.

Gym Generation ul. Wybrzeże Gdyńskie 4 (Centrum Olimpijskie, floor 4), tel. 502 092 695, gymgeneration.pl A professionally developed curriculum that offers your child a range of experiences, providing new and exciting activities each time and engaging them in physical challenges, a variety of games and team puzzles. There’s a maximum of 15 kids to a class, with one instructor for every five children.

Guitar Classes Tel. 732 860 825, arekniezgoda@hotmail. com Private guitar lessons either at your place or in a private studio in Wilanów.

Classic, acoustic and electric guitar taught by Arek, a 35-year old teacher who covers most styles from classic to pop/rock. Previous work experience includes teaching in private music schools in California and at The British School of Warsaw. Both kids and adults are welcome.

HulaKula ul. Dobra 56/66, tel. 22 552 74 00, open Mon-Tue 12:00-24:00; Wed 12:00-1:00; Fri 12:00-3:00; Sat 10:00-4:00; Sun 10:00-24:00, www.hulakula.com.pl Bowling alley and soft indoor playground: heaven for www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / family kids and hell for grown-ups! Children love to climb, explore and slide into large ball pools.

Parents hate the lack of daylight and fast food menu.

education preschools American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel.

22 702 85 00, www.aswarsaw.org ASW provides an American-styled educational program to students aged 4 and 5. The curriculum offers a rich, meaningful and balanced educational experience through age-appropriate activities. For further information and/ or to visit our school, contact: admissions@ aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00.

The British School Early Years Centre ul. Dąbrowskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel.

22 646 7777, british@thebritishschool.pl, www.thebritishschool.pl The British School provides special classes from pre-nursery aged 30 months to 6 years old. Children at the Early Years Centre move on to our Primary and Secondary schools at Limanowskiego 15.

The British School of Warsaw in Wilanów ul. Hlonda / Ledóchowskiej, tel.

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781 988 000, bsww.pl The school is affiliated with University of Cambridge International Examinations which mandates the educational program, qualifications and examinations for pupils up to 19 years of age. Currently admission is offered only to children between 2 and 7 years old (Nursery and Reception, Year 1 levels) for 2014/15. Older children are encouraged to submit application for 2015/16 or 2016/17.

Buzzy Bee Bilingual Preschool & Kindergarten ul. Śląska 45, tel. 502 036 962 / 22 863 30 96, www.przedszkole-wlochy.pl An English immersion program designed for Polish and international children aged one to five.

The curriculum is conducted in Polish and English and prepares children for entry into their Vancouver primary schools. The school is situated in a quiet, green neighborhood of Stare Włochy and includes a 2,000 sq/m garden.

The Canadian School of Warsaw Preschool Unit ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, preschool@canadianschool.pl The Canadian School of Warsaw is the only authorized school in Warsaw teaching IB PYP in English. The preschool offers a bilingual environment for 3-6 year olds enriched

with foreign languages and extra activities.

Serving the Warsaw community since 2000, they’re now found on new premises 100m from Mokotów’s Dreszera Park and 300m away from Ogródek Jordanowski. All children are welcome, though available space is limited. For further info, tours and school visits call or email.

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations)

Warsaw Montessori School ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www.warsawmontessori. edu.pl Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have 3 green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy.

Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. Call to make an appointment to tour any of the 3 schools.

Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupery ul. Nobla 16, tel. 22 616 14 99, www.ecole-montessori.pl The preschool is located in the Saska Kępa district and pro-

listings / family vides a Montessori curriculum in French for children aged from 18 months to 6 years old.

The English Playhouse ul. Pływiańska 14a & ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 22 843 9370, office open 8:0016.00, www.theenglishplayhouse.com The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old.

For more info or to arrange a tour of the pre-school or nursery call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email: jnowak@ theenglishplayhouse.com

The International Preschool of Warsaw ul. Kalatowki 24, tel. 22 843 0964, ipw.edu.pl IPW is located in a residential area of Mokotów, within walking distance of Królikarnia as well as both tram and metro lines. Children from 2.5 to 6 years old are welcome. English is the language spoken and breakfast, lunch and snacks are provided during the day. Children also have the opportunity to participate in gymnastics, music, art and drama classes. IPW serves the international community and prepares children for international education.

Happy Montessori House Warsaw Montessori Pre-school, ul. Rumiana 14, tel. 22 423 50 75, mob. 697 060 504, open 7.30-17:00, www.hmh.com.pl The Happy Montessori House offers part-time and full-time places for children aged between 2 to 6 years, as well as toddler-focused activities (from 18 months to 3 years) centered around movement, sensorial stimulation, storytelling, singing and socialising.

Maple Tree Montessori ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/ Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, www.mapletreemontessori.pl Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an

ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). Find them located in the Wilanów district of Warsaw, in a house safely nestled into the end of a quiet street.

Międzynarodowa Szkoła Podstawowa Argonaut ul. Radarowa 6, tel. 504 509 504, open Mon-Fri 7.30-18:00, www.argonaut.edu.pl This elementary school is open for children of all nationalities and backgrounds. It places a focus on learning English as well as additional languages, and has an attractive list of available extracurricular activities.

Montessori Academy for International Children ul. Królewicza Jakuba 36 (Wilanów), open Mon-Fri 8:00-16:15, ul. Sadowa 4 (Konstancin), Open 8:00-16:45, tel. 502 315 022, www.montessoriacademy.eu An English-speaking pre-school (16 months to 6 years of age) with two locations. The school’s policy is to comply with Montessori standards, using the Montessori Method in English. The school’s philosophy is based on the joy of learning, which comes from discovering and furthering the individual development of each child.

Trilingual Pre-school and Nursery “Three Languages” Center ul. Karowa 14/16 lok 6 (3-6 year olds); ul. Cicha 5 lok 1 (1-2 year olds), open Mon-Fri 7:30-18:30, tel. 517 872 682, www.3languages.pl The only trilingual pre-school and nursery teaching English, Spanish and Polish through total language immersion. All educators are native speaker pre-school teachers. The comprehensive curriculum follows American, Spanish and Polish curriculum standards. The pre-school was awarded European Language Label in 2012.

schools American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, www. aswarsaw.org ASW is a premier collegepreparatory international school that offers a PK-12 curriculum, including the IB Diploma Program in Grades 11 and 12. Students are inspired and challenged every day by experi-

enced and dedicated teachers, who provide enriching learning opportunities in a world class facility. For further information and/ or to visit our school contact: admissions@ aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00.

The British School ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, open 8:00-16:00, british@thebritishschool. pl, www.thebritishschool.pl Top-ranking private school in Warsaw providing outstanding education based on the British system.

The Canadian School of Warsaw – Middle and High School Unit ul. Olimpijska 11, tel. 600 247 655, www. canadian-school.pl Provides a continuation of IB education for 11-15 year olds. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create a perfect learning and creative thinking environment. For further info, tours and school visits call or email.

The Canadian School of Warsaw Primary School ul. Bełska 7, tel.

692 411 573, admission@ canadian-school.pl, www. canadian-school.pl The Canadian School of Warsaw is the only authorized school in Warsaw teaching IB PYP in English. The Primary School offers bilingual education for 6-11 year olds. Highly qualified, international staff, challenging materials and a friendly atmosphere provide an optimal setting for the highest standard of education.

Extra-curricular activities include visual arts, designing classes, ceramics/pottery, art studio, music lessons (piano, guitar, choir), sports (capoeira, karate, judo, soccer, swimming, gymnastics), languages (English, Polish, French, Spanish, Italian, German) and more.

Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupery ul. Nobla 16, tel. 22 616 14 99, www.saintexupery.pl Established in 1994, the Antoine de Saint-Exupery preschool and school provides a French curriculum for children aged from 3 to eleven years old in a welcoming family atmosphere. Highly qualified native Frenchspeaking teachers. www.warsawinsider.pl

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Lycée Français de Varsovie ul. Walecznych 4/6, tel. 22 616 5400, www.lfv.pl. French school admitting students from the age of two years old. All instruction is in French. Languages offered : Polish, English, German, Spanish, Latin. Also, a wide variety of after school activities (sport, arts, extra-curricular instruction).

Vancouver School ul. Globusowa 38, tel. 887 808 266, vancouverschools.pl The teaching system here combines the best practices and aspects of the Polish and Canadian education systems, with daily classes in English conducted in accordance with the proven method of ‘immersion’ using modern Canadian and British materials.

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Warsaw Montessori School ul. Szwoleżerów 4, tel. 22 841 3908, sylvia@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www. warsawmontessori.edu.pl Focuses on the Montessori curriculum with an education based on the integration of conceptual learning and real-life experiences.

cafes Figa z Makiem (Saska Kępa) ul. Walecznych 64, tel. 512 939 001, open Mon-Sat 10.30-19:00, Sun 11:00-19:00, www.figazmakiem.edu.pl One of the latest and greatest addition to the growing roster of Warsaw kid cafes. Do some well selected designer kids shopping while waiting, or simply browse the books and toys section while your little ones romp in the kids room.

Fiku Miku ul. Zwycięzców 32, tel. 692 448 112, open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-20:00,

www.fikumikucafe.pl This small, jolly cafe is dedicated to children. The focus is on films and creative workshops. Designer Polish toys are on sale alongside a healthy menu, and fresh cake selection. Check FB for updates as this café closes for private birthday parties.

Kalimba ul. Mierosławskiego 19, tel. 22 839 75 60 or 501 183 953, open Mon-Fri 9:30-20:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-20:00, www.kalimba.pl Kalimba café caters to Warsaw’s boho-chic community. Relax with long latte’s or nibble healthy snacks whilst kids climb a spiral staircase to the indoor tree house, role-play in the kitchen area or join creative workshops.

The shop, with original handmade toys is tempting, but it’s the pick’n’mix candy that’s unavoidable!

Kolonia ul. Łęczycka (corner of Ładysława), tel. 661 064 944 or 605 084 804, open 9:00-20:00, www.kolonia-ochota.pl Not just an excellent cafe, Kolonia is aslo equipped with a garden/

listings / family playground. Kolonia is the most kid-friendly (and pet-friendly) place in the area, offering fresh daily specials and a staff that always welcomes you with a smile.

Kredkafe al. Wyzwolenia 14, tel. 22 622 1561 or 502 683 246, open 10:00-20:00. www.kredkafe. pl The interiors look great, bright and cheerful with cute cartoon sketches and an entire playroom complete with toys, stuffed animals and a playhouse. There is even a mini-theater where the kids can put on puppet shows.

Bathrooms, of course, have baby-change facilities. The brainchild of two women with experience in hospitality and pedagogy, part of the idea of Kredkafe was to create a teaching space.

Nabo ul. Zakręt 8, tel. 22 842 0256, open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:30; Sat-Sun 9:00-21:30, www.nabocafe.pl Nabo is run by a Danish couple and its light and minimalist interior – designed by those who created R20 – lends itself to every occasion. But aside from its tasty and seasonal dishes, it’s the children’s corner that is causing the biggest commotion.

Nowa Kuźnia (Wilanów) ul. Stanisława Kostki-Potockiego 24, tel. 500 200 200, open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-22:00, www. nowakuznia.pl Hugely child friendly, Nowa Kuźnia comes into its element each summer when the garden is turned into a giant faux

beach – complete with diggers, slides and a see-saw.

Peek-a-boo ul. Karola Chodkiewicza 7, tel. 22 370 21 71, open Mon-Sun 10:00-20:00 The pale palette and plush velvet upholstered furniture might not be the first choice of fabrics around sticky, chocolaty paws but every mummy needs a bit of luxury from time-to-time. The café divides its limited square meters evenly between parent and child expectations, creating space to relax, eat and play in: however, the gigantic doll’s house does suggest Barbie got the best deal.

Umpa Lumpa ul. Mickiewicza 24, tel. 22 245 1909, open Mon-Sun 10:00-21:00. www.umpa-lumpa.pl Bit part café, most part candy store. Colorfully designed, shelves here feature an array of rainbow colored lollipops, sweets and chocolate. Spoil your toddler, and yourself while you’re there.

shops Bimbus ul. Wilcza 69, tel. 22 628 5140, open 10:0018:00; Sat 10:00-14:00. www.bimbus.com. pl Accessories, clothes, furniture and toys for parents who pamper their child with nothing but the best. Brands include Tartine et Chocolat, Quax, Woodwork and Theophile & Patachou.

Endo www.endo.pl Endo is the original home of quality children’s wear that embraced great design by Polish artists and accompanied it with Polish slogans. Much of the materials used are organic, hardwearing and wash well. .

Mimbla ul.Mokotowska 51/53, tel. 22 629 3065, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 10:0014:00. Exclusively for kids on Warsaw’s most exclusive shopping street it’s an Aladdin’s cave of quality toys and Polish/English books. Get your gift wrapped here and both mum and child will be happy even before opening it.

Muppetshop ul. Kazimierzowska 43, tel. 532 689 212, muppetshop.pl An innovative concept store that offers a wide range of brands and products targeted at young people – babies, juniors, teenagers. The portfolio includes full-service for expecting parents as well as complete interior projects (from 0 to the firstowned apartment). On top of that expect a wealth of other design products (kitchen accessories, decorations, toys, bags, books etc.) from carefully selected brands such as Quax, Lodger, Chispum, Shnuggle, Collegien, Jielde, Gubi and many more besides. It all serves to make it the No. 1 spot for your youngsters shopping.

Pieluszkarnia ul. Topiel 12, ul. Mandalińskiego 25, tel.

22 713 8275, open Mon-Fri 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-15:00. www.pieluszkarnia.pl This small chain specializes in eco-friendly toys and clothing designed and produced in Poland. Products include the Lalanka dolly clothing collection, luxuriously soft reversible winter balaclavas and Martello blankets personalized for births etc.

Smyk Multiple stores, tel. 22 462 7250, www. smyk.pl Smyk is Poland’s answer to Mothercare; from bottle sterilizing kits to pencil cases, early learning toys to Disney classics and a wide range of seasonal clothing, this store will take you from childbirth to high school!

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health & beauty Holmes Place Premium at the Regent Hotel

cycling stores & service AveBmx ul. Dobra 56/66, tel. 22 828 0213, avebmx. pl Cult BMX store in the hip Powiśle district.

Staffed by true enthusiasts who live the BMX lifestyle, it’s the No. 1 spot in Warsaw for those who see BMX as the only way to cycle.

Bikeman Al. Wyzwolenia 14, bikeman.pl On-road, x-road and off-road bikes, with brands including Alpina, Burley, Ergon and Giant.

Accessories include helmets, gloves, backpacks plus everything you need to revive your bike if it passes out.

Galeria Sztuki Rowerowej ul. Widok 10, tel. 507 202 572 Glorious bikes, many of them vintage, and many of them in colors that’ll make you the talk of the town. Not just affordable prices, they also promise to fix your bike for free should it suddenly conk out.

SWimminG PoolS AquApArk WesolAndiA (ul. Wspólna 4 (Wesoła), wesolandia.pl) Features a recreational pool, kids pool and a 25 meter pool for more serious swimmers. Also on-site, a water tube, Jacuzzi, tennis and fitness facilities.

Holmes plAce premium (ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel), ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), holmesplace.pl) All the ‘premium’ outposts of Holmes Place tout swimming pools, though most agree it is the one in the Hilton branch that’s the best. Enquire direct about membership fees. rivervieW Wellness centre (ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental), riverview.com.pl) Another members only pool, and this one is really worth the membership cost – it’s the highest pool in Europe. Stunning views of Warsaw make this a swim to remember.

Wodny pArk (ul. Merliniego 4, wodnypark.com.pl) When looking for a pool, most look no further: on-site find an olympic swimming pool, recreational pool complete with artificial river, slides and tubes, a Russian ‘banya’ zone, not to mention other attractions like bowling and squash courts.

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Wygodny Rower Various locations, tel. 888 498 498, wygodnyrower.pl Bike store and service center chain dealing with city bikes, fixed gear, single speed and road bikes. A huge range of bikes, running from Abus to Zefal via manufacturers such as Pashley, Fuji and Adriatica.

gyms Fitness Centre at the Radisson SAS Centrum Hotel ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888 Smallish but well-regarded gym with swimming pool, sauna, gym, and group classes inside one of Warsaw’s top five stars.

Fitness Centre at the Sheraton Hotel ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6701, www.sheraton. com/warsaw The Sheraton spa features sauna, steam room and massage, while the gym comes with LCD-fitted running and cycling machines, and a dedicated cardio section. Personal training available, as are group classes covering pilates, yoga, aerobics and even ski conditioning.

listings / health & beauty Holmes Place Energy Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (C.H. Arkadia), ul.

Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), www. holmesplace.pl Making top-flight gym facilities available to the masses, the Holmes Place Energy brand offers high standard equipment, personal training and group classes. Six month membership available for approx. zł.

200 per month, though prices are subject to change. For latest details enquire direct.

Holmes Place Premium ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel), tel.

22 851 0563, ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), tel. 22 313 1222, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), tel. 519 436 841, www.holmesplace.pl Those who use it claim the Hilton branch is the best gym in Poland.

Set on two floors, highlights include a 25 meter pool, sauna and steam room and a spacious gym packed with the most modern equipment. Also on-site, a varied timetable of classes, excellent personal trainers and a Green Coffee relaxation area. There’s two more ‘premium’ gyms to choose from, including the one in the Marriott immortalized after Obama’s recent work out there.

McFit ul. Świętokrzyska 3, tel. 22 313 1400, mcfit. com The budget European chain signals its arrival to Poland with a 2,000 sq/m studio that utilizes the latest technology as well as ‘cyber training’ programs. Open 24/7, with membership from zł. 89 per month.

Pure Jatomi Fitness Platinum Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59 (floor 3, opposite McDonald’s), tel. 22 379 7777, open Mon-Fri 6:00-22:30; Sat 8:00-22:30; Sun 8:00-21:00, www. jatomifitness.pl The largest and fastest growing fitness chain in Poland currently has 35 locations and 117,000 members across the country. All clubs have new generation machines, innovative forms of group activities (Booiaka, Hot Yoga, Pure Pump, Pure Fire and Wah Gwan Dancehall) and professional personal trainers schooled in nutrition and the healthy lifestyle.

Pure Jatomi Fitness Platinum Zodiak ul. Widok 26, tel. 22 100 3400, open 24hrs, www.jatomifitness.pl Poland’s fastest growing fitness chain has been recognized for excellence after being named SCF Leisure & Fitness Retailer of the Year 2014. Other Pure Jatomi clubs in Warsaw include: Blue City, Galeria Renova, Sadyba Best Mall, Promenada and Targówek.

RiverView Wellness Centre ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental), tel. 22 328 86 40, www.riverview.com.pl Top-class facilities and equipment, private instructors and small classes. The view from the highest pool in Europe offers a glorious panorama of the city. Annual prices from zł. 4,200 (access from Mon-Fri 6 a.m. to 5 p.m.), zł. 5,760 (all times), and zł. 8,350 for Diamond Membership (includes two personal training sessions per month, a complimentary weekend at the InterContinental, restaurant discounts, etc.).

Languages spoken include English, German, Spanish and Arabic.

dental clinics

Odent ul. Nowoursynowska 145E (entry from ul.

Rosoła) & ul. Duchnicka 3, tel. 22 405 4430, odent.pl Dubbed ‘the clinic with a heart’, Odent’s personal approach is complimented by expert staff and the latest and most advanced treatments and equipment.

English-speaking service also available.

ArtDental ul. Łucka 18, tel. 22 654 3006, artdental.pl Well-known among expats, ArtDental’s service is widely praised for its honest service and moderate prices. English speaking and moderately priced.

Aster Med ul. Św. Bonifacego 92, tel. 22 858 0354, www.astermed.pl Aster Med, while billing itself as a center of orthodontics and implantology, is really the full service with 14 dentists and 4 orthodontists and implant surgeons.

DeClinic ul. Bernardyńska 16A, tel. 22 112 0400, declinic.pl Regarded as one of the most modern clinics in Europe, amongst other innovations DeClinic have swapped the traditional drilling process in favor of abrasive sandblaster – perfect for kids or those afraid of the dentist.

DentaLux ul. Racławicka 31 & Puławska 257, tel. 22 787 878, dentalux.pl Englishspeaking service available, as well as 24hr emergency consultations.

EuroDental Various locations, tel. 22 380 7000, eurodental.pl English-speaking dentists on request. Lacking the ‘boutique’ charm of some of Warsaw’s more modish clinics, the service here is both efficient and moderately priced.

Elektoralna Dental Clinic ul. Elektoralna 28, tel. 22 620 2140, elektoralna.pl State-of-the-art dental clinic featuring Poland’s first dental tomograph.

Malo Clinic Domaniewska 37 (3rd floor), tel. 22 393 6333, www.maloclinics.com/polska This world class dental clinic incorporates five dental offices, an operating room, two recovery rooms and a state-of-the-art diagnostic center.

medical clinics Damian Medical Center Various locations, see website for details: damian.pl Established in 1994, Damian offer a wide range of medical services in their hospital and five outpatient clinics. English spoken widely.

Ren Clinic Al. Gen. Władysława Sikorskiego 9A lok.

12A, tel. 22 414 2222 or 501 126 108, www.renclinic.pl Surgical care, cosmetics, medical dermatology, aesthetic medicine and more.

Lux Med Medical Clinics Various locations, see website for details: www.luxmed.pl Medicover Various locations, see website for details: medicover.pl Hugely popular amongst ex-pats, Medicover offer a wide range of membership schemes for both private and corporate clients. The jewel in their crown is a state-of-the-art hospital in the Wilanów district.

Melitus ul. Słowackiego 12, tel. 22 833 7438, mob.

603 060 621, www.melitus.pl Specializing in dermatology, surgery, phlebology, endocrinology, gynecology and internal medicine.

The clinic is equipped with the latest and www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / health & beauty most innovative medical equipment and employs several renowned clinicians.

under the stars here is an absolutely magical experience.

Therapy Warsaw ul. Filtrowa 69/13, tel. 601 532 319, www.therapywarsaw.com English-speaking therapy for couples and individuals dealing with relationships, eating disorders, trauma, stress and much more besides.

Torwar ul. Łazienkowska 6A, torwar.pl Lacking the bells and whistles of other more modern rinks, Towar is something of a blast to the past. Admission is charged at zł. 8-12 with skate rental from zł. 7.

Warszawskie Centrum Zdrowia ul. Nowogrodzka 76, tel. 22 857 3014, www.wcz.waw.pl Specializes in the prevention, early detection and treatment of cardiovascular disease.

spas & salons

skating National Stadium Al. Poniatowskiego 1, zimowynarodowy.pl This is the one everyone is taking about. Find three rinks (two of which are connected by an ‘ice path’), an ‘ice hill’, a disco rink and a Christmas fair and ‘ice bistro’ in the middle of it all. Last year saw 105,000 people visit, and that number is expected to be smashed this time around. Price: zł. 13-15 for 75 mins.

Old Town Square Rynek Starego Miasto Following its hugely successful debut last year, Old Town’s ice rink returned in December, this time with the rink centered around the mermaid statue. Once again there’s numerous wooden cabins selling mulled wine, snacks and gifts – skating

Bartek Janusz Salon ul. Mokotowska 19 / ul. Wilcza 72, tel. 22 828 4444, www.bartekjanusz.pl The staff here takes a no-nonsense approach to cutting hair – it goes along with the minimalist chic interiors of the place. According to one Insider: “I’ve never left a salon feeling so happy with my hair.”

covers all the bases.

Dotyk SPA ul. Biały Kamień 3, tel. 22 898 7272, open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Sat 9:00-18:00, www.dotykspa.pl Probably the only place in Warsaw where you’ll get a facial yoga session. Going futher east, treat yourself to Japanese, Polynesian or Indian massage.

Fiuu Fiuu Day Spa ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 629 2414. A wonderful quick fix salon that makes use of the latest Ericson products and other top brands. Regarded as one of the top ladies day spas in the country.

Bio.Sis Nail Spa ul. Mokotowska 26, tel. 22 621 1404. A top spot for a classic manicure or pedicure – they also do lots of complicated things with gels and other hi-tech nail discoveries. Also on Elektoralna 24.

Hair a Porter ul. Belwederska 23 (Hyatt Hotel, level -1), tel.

22 558 1555, open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat 9:00-17:00, www.hair-a-porter.pl A staunch favorite among the ex-pat crowd, Hair a Porter offer the ultimate hair experience utilizing talented staff and top-quality products.

BodyClinic ul. Oboźna 9 lok. 104, tel. 22 826 1160 or 784 677 618, open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat 9:00-15:00, www.bodyclinic.pl Thorough body care for everyone. From the usual options to a huge variety of massages and some very exotic treatments, BodyClinic

Haircology ul. Rozbrat 44A, tel. 669 780 669, open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-last guest, www.haircology.pl An upmarket ecologically minded hairdresser that eschews such things as synthetic fragrances, silicon and preservatives.

Odent was established to ensure the highest level of service on the dental map of Warsaw. We offer flexible hours, cutting edge technology and two branches in convenient locations in Żoliborz and Ursynów.

Scope of services: • Orthodontics • Teeth Whitening • Cutting-edge prosthetics

• Dental surgery and maxillofacial implants • Conservative treatment, cosmetic dentistry

• Treatment of children • Root canal treatment of teeth using traditional microscopic • X-ray lab

Żoliborz: ul. Duchnicka 3 bud.4, entrance A • Ursynów: Nowoursynowska 145 E (entrance from ul. Rosoła), www.odent.pl, tel. 22 405 44 30

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in the city NEIGHBORHOOD PROWL: Emilii Plater

Carved into two distinctive halves Emilii Plater is the perfect Warsaw conundrum: all bright lights and corporate towers at the top, and at the bottom a throwback of pre-war tenements and family businesses. Maps at the ready for a snoop around the latter.

1 Not even the removal of the top floor in the 60s lessens the importance of Emilii Plater 1.

National hero and statesman Józef Piłsudski lived here for a year in 1922 and a plaque affirms his fleeting presence. According to local legend, it was here that he cunningly tricked his daughter into eating some unwanted soup by challenging her to guess how many teaspoons of soup were in the bowl.

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odz

Originally painted during Tsarist times, the Cyrillic / Polish lettering on Emilii Plater 9/11 announces the copper foundry business of Adolf Witt & Son. Check out the more modern wall art in the courtyard.

ka

3 E mi

Looking grim and tumbledown, nip through the gate at Emilii Plater 13 to view a pre-war shrine to the Virgin Mary, and check out the spiralling staircase in the first tenement: even the abject disrepair can’t disguise its beauty.

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5 Wsp

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Regarded by many as Warsaw’s most intriguing embassy, the neo-Baroque palace at No. 17 is the seat of Morocco’s mission in Poland. On closer inspection the down-at-heel façade is full of decorative little details, including a door knocker with a Moroccan star.

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4 3

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5 The Church of St. Peter & Paul at No. 31 was among the largest places of worship in pre-war Warsaw. Flattened in the Uprising, today the church is home to Warsaw’s biggest organ and an exact replica of the Turin Shroud! www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / in the city VISITORS accomodation 5-Star Hotels

Bristol Hotel ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1000, bristol@luxurycollection. com, www.hotelbristolwarsaw.pl

H15 Boutique ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 553 8700, info@h15ab.com, www.h15ab.com Hilton Warsaw ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555 / 800 44 11 482, www.hilton.com InterContinental ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com Mamaison Le Régina Hotel Warsaw ul. Kościelna 12, tel. 22 531 6000, www. mamaison.com Marriott Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 6306, www.warsawmarriott.com Regent Warsaw Hotel ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, reservations@regent-warsaw.com, www.regent-warsaw.com The Rialto Boutique Hotel ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8700, www.rialto.pl Sheraton ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6100, www.sheraton.pl Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-warsaw

Westin Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, www.westin.pl

4-Star Hotels

Airport Hotel Okęcie ul. 17-ego Stycznia 24, tel. 22 456 8000, www.airporthotel.com.pl Hampton by Hilton ul. Wspólna 72, tel. 22 317 2700, hamptoninn3.hilton.com Radisson Blu Sobieski pl. Zawiszy 1, tel. 22 579 1000, www.sobieski.com.pl Mecure Warszawa Centrum ul. Złota 48/54, tel. 22 697 3999, www.mercure.com Mercure Grand Warszawa ul. Krucza 28, tel. 22 583 2100, www.mercure.com Courtyard by Marriott Hotel (Airport) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 0100, www.warszawacourtyard.pl Novotel Warszawa Centrum ul. Marszałkowska 94/98, tel. 22 596 0000, www.novotel.com, www.accorhotels.com Polonia Palace Hotel Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. 22 318 2800, www.poloniapalace.com Warsaw Plaza Hotel ul. Łączyny 5, tel. 885 886 100, www.warsawplazahotel.pl

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Boutique B&B ul. Smolna 14/6, tel. 22 829 4800, www.bedandbreakfast.pl Chmielna Guesthouse ul. Chmielna 13, tel. 22 828 1282, www.chmielnabb.pl Vision Apartments Warsaw Al. Jerozolimskie 81 ( 22nd floor), tel. 22 292 8888, www.visionapartments.eu Vision Apartments specialize in the rental of highquality furnished apartments. In Warsaw, the company is present with designer apartments inside Platinum Towers on ul. Grzybowska.

car rental Avis tel. 22 572 6565, Fredrick Chopin Airport, tel. 22 650 4872, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 575 6583, Reservations: tel. 801 120 010, www.avis.pl Hertz Rent a Car Okęcie Airport, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel.

22 650 2896; mob. 691 411 130. ul.

Nowogrodzka 27 (D5), tel. 22 621 1360.

RESIDENTS relocation companies

apartments

InterContinental ul. Emili Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www. warsaw.intercontinental.com Long and short stay apartments provided by the hotel of the same name. Perks included are the same as those received by hotel guests: i.e. access to the top floor pool, room service, maid service etc.

MaMaison Residence Diana ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 9100, www.mamaison.com/diana A beautiful city center location from the same team behind Le Regina. Short and long term stays.

Sofitel Warsaw Victoria ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8011, www.sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com

ul. Bracka 20, tel. 22 8285417 (from 10 a.m. to 11p.m.), www.between-us.eu

B&B

Between Us Bed & Breakfast

Move One Relocations ul. Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 8160, www.moveonerelo.com Also immigration assistance, fine art shipping, pet transport and consulting services.

Relo Planet ul. Lwowska 5, tel. 22 658 1958, reloplanet. com International and domestic removals, transport and logistics solutions including office and individual moves, diplomatic posts, small shipments, storage and artwork.

listings / in the city polish for foreigners Frog ul. Mazowiecka 12/24, tel. 22 403 7872 or 517 459 418, www.frog.org.pl Acclaimed language school aimed at all levels of competency. Flexible schedules and a history of working with foreigners make it one of the ‘go to’ choices for new arrivals wanting to polish their Polish.

Klub Dialogu Gałczyńskiego 4, lok 903, tel. 664 788 004, www.klubdialogu.pl Individual and group courses held either on-site or at the venue of your choice. Tailor-made packages inc. both intensive and weekend courses.

community InterNations www.internations.org Drawing professionals from home and abroad the mission of InterNations is to bring together ‘global minds’. Now an established part of Warsaw’s social and corporate circuit, their monthly meetings have become Must Do events on schedules round town.

Professionals in Warsaw meetup.com/Professionals-in-Warsaw New to town? There’s few better ways to give your social life a jump start than popping along to

one of the informal drinks mixers conducted

by Professionals in Warsaw. Natives and foreigners of all backgrounds and professions are welcomed – all you have to do is buy your own drinks. Search for them on facebook.

St. Patrick’s Foundation www.irishball.pl The Irish Ball, held on the Saturday closest to St. Patrick’s Day, is legendary in Warsaw as the biggest of the balls. It’s the main annual fund-raiser of the foundation, which distributes the funds raised to various charities over the course of the year.

Toastmasters International www.toastmasters.org.pl Toastmasters is the international organization for improving public speaking and presentation skills. The local club meets every Wednesday at 19.00.

Guests are always welcome without any obligation apart from a short introduction.

museums Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. 22 596 4100, kopernik.org.pl Interactive, witty and surprising, Copernicus allows visitors to experience an earthquake, blast recyclable objects into space and become a mystery cracking detective.

CSW ul. Jazdów 2, csw.art.pl Situated in a

baroque-style castle the center hosts artists from all over the world. The on-site bookshop is of particular interest for artists and intellectuals. Ongoing: Habitat. This unique summary of Katarzyna Józefowicz’s work includes sculptures and drawings made on or using ephemeral materials such as newspaper and cardboard. Ongoing till April 19: Natalia LL – Secretum et Tremor. The largest solo exhibition of Natalia LL for 16 years juxtaposes her early video and photographic work of the 1960s against lesser known existentialist works from the last two decades.

Dom Spotkań z Historią ul. Karowa 20, dsh.waw.pl The History Meeting House wins points for frequently excellent exhibitions that cover topics such as ‘rebuilding Warsaw’ and ‘Socialist Realist architecture.’ It won’t take longer than twenty minutes to peruse whatever exhibition is on, but it’s still a very worthwhile diversion and one of the city’s top secrets. Ongoing until April 6: The Great War in the East (19141918). Usually associated with the Western Front, this photographic exhibition aims to redress the balance by covering WWI from an eastern angle. Ongoing: Photographers of The First World War: Brož, Myšička, Rajman.

The works of three Czech photographers present a glimpse of everyday life on both in and out of the frontline.

Historical Museum of Warsaw Rynek Starego Miasta 28/42, mhw.pl The granddaddy of Warsaw museums is over the

ul. Ordynacka 13/5 | 00 –364 Warszawa | tel. +48 664 788 004 | w w w.klubdialogu.pl

KLUB DIALOGU POLISH LANGUAGE SCHOOL FOR FOREIGNERS TA I LO R – M A D E individual and minigroup courses: intensive, regular, weekend at your place or at school

www.warsawinsider.pl

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SPONSORED ARTICLE

Olga Boznańska: A Life In Pictures

T

he 150th anniversary of Olga Boznańska’s birth has inspired the National Museum in Kraków and Warsaw to organize a presentation of her oeuvre. Born in Kraków to a French mother and a Polish father, Boznańska began her artistic education in her home town. She continued to study Running till May 2nd, The National Museum painting in Munich before settling in Paris in 1889. There, in Warsaw is pleased to announce the her career as a portrait painter flourished.

The National Museum in Warsaw will present 150 unveiling of its latest exhibition… works

by Boznańska from various periods of her life, as well as several paintings by other artists. By contrasting Boznańska’s paintings with masterpieces by artists such as Diego Velázquez (Portrait of Mariana of Austria, Queen of Spain from Madrid’s Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza), Édouard Manet, Eugène Carrière, Henri Fantin-Latour and Édouard Vuillard (paintings from the collection of Musée d’Orsay in Paris) as well as Japanese woodcuts, visitors will be able to view her work against a global artistic perspective. Among these, James Abbott McNeill Whistler’s outstanding canvas Harmony in Grey and Green: Miss Cicely Alexander, on loan from the Tate Gallery in London for the first month of the exhibition, is a definite must-see.

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PHOTOGRAPHS: PRESS MATERIALS NATIONAL MUSEUM IN WARSAW

Olga Boznańska in her Krakow studio, photographer unknown, c. 1920, The National Museum in Warsaw

(Right) James Abbott McNeill Whistler, Harmony in Grey and Green: Miss Cicely Alexander, oil, canvas, Tate, London (Left top) Olga Boznańska Portrait of Paul Nauen, 1893, Muzeum Narodowe w Krakowie (Left bottom) Still Life with White Roses (Still Life with White Roses and a Japanese Doll), 1918 Collection of Krzysztof Musiał

The exhibition will include Boznańska’s most famous works from Polish public collections, such as the National Museums in Kraków, Warsaw, Poznań and Wrocław and the Polish Library in Paris. It will also feature paintings from the Musée d’Orsay in Paris, the Ca’Pesaro Gallery in Venice and the Telfair Museum in Savannah, many of which have never been exhibited before in Poland. The exhibition will be further enriched by works from private collections that have rarely been presented in public.

The script of the Warsaw exhibition provides a subjectbased categorization of Boznańska’s catalog . Visitors will be able to view portraits, including a designated section devoted to images of children and visions of motherhood, urban landscapes, workshop interiors and still life.

Portraiture is a realm in which Boznańska excelled, and these works will occupy the largest part of the exhibition, creating a one-of-a-kind gallery of psychological portraits.

Thanks to a series of self-portraits, visitors will be able to become familiar with the artist herself. Further, an attempt has been made to recreate her workspace, complete with salavaged memorabilia, furniture, palettes, drawings and archive photographs.

The aim of the narrative is to let the magnetic charm of Olga Boznańska’s art unfold before visitors, enabling them to discover its characteristic traits, which the painter herself once defined thus: “My paintings look wonderful because they represent the truth. They are honest, generous and contain no petty-mindedness, mannerisms or tall stories. They are quiet and alive, as if but a thin veil separates them from the viewers…”

Through a series of lectures, meetings and workshops, the National Museum hopes to reveal Boznańska’s inspirations and different styles, as well as tackling the many myths that surround her life. Targeted at visitors of all ages, some such workshops include drawing classes as well as school and kindergarten tours and lessons. Some of the educational activities will be in sign language, while those with visual impairments are invited to a host of special workshops that make use of tactile exhibits, audio and music. Tours will also be organized in English, German, French, Italian and Russian.

The National Museum in Warsaw Al. Jerozolimskie 3, www.mnw.art.pl www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / in the city worst of a lengthy refit and gradually reopening bit by bit. The ground floor cinema is a must – playing a 20 minute film that details the depressing story behind the destruction of Warsaw.

The Fryderyk Chopin Museum in Warsaw Ostrogski Palace, ul. Okólnik 1, chopin. museum Recognized as one of the most hi-tech museums in Europe, computer chip tickets allow visitors the chance to personalize the museum experience as never before.

Over 5,000 objects are present, among them Chopin’s pocket watch, his last piano, a lock of hair and even his death mask.

Jewish Historical Institute ul. Tłomackie 3/5, jhi.pl Officially opened in 1947 the Jewish Historical Institute was created to serve as an archive of Jewish culture in Warsaw. It contains artwork, historical artifacts and important documents from the city’s rich Jewish past.

Museum of Communist Life ul. Glucha (opposite Soho Factory), tel.

606 225 525, adventurewarsaw.com Run by the excellent Adventure Warsaw tour guide company, the Museum of Communist Life brings together aspects of communist life through dioramas that present typical living quarters of the time and a milk bar. Displays are numerous and quirky, and include a restored Saturator machine, a collection of commie hoovers, not to mention medals from the owner’s own family. A must see!

Polin - Museum of the History of Polish Jews ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl Composed of eight galleries, each covers a different stage of local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day. Covering 4,000 sq/m, highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec synagogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical interwar Jewish Warsaw street.

Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw ul. Pańska 3, artmuseum.pl The very first museum of modern art in Warsaw, still fighting for a proper location, bravely manages to provide visitors with a display of contemporary Polish and international art. Ongoing: Recto / Verso – Andrzej Wróblewski. This exhibition concentrates, we’re told, on two phases of this Polish artist’s work: the very beginning, when he was trying to discover his own style (1948-1949), and the very end

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(1956-1957) when, after a period of faith in socialist realism, he attempted to redefine himself and start from scratch. Ongoing: Lest The Two Seas Meet. Inspired by the Arab Spring, presents the works of numerous international artists, among them Mona Hatoum, Emily Jacir and Walid Raad.

National Museum Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars. From February 26: Olga Boznańska. The works of this Polish great have been sourced from near and far to present the most extensive collection of her work ever seen.

The Neon Museum ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum. org This amazing project brings together the neon lights that once illuminated the city.

Among the collection are 35 landmark signs, many of which date from the 60s and 70s.

Palmiry National Memorial Museum Palmiry, palmiry.mhw.pl An excellent multimedia exhibition set next to a cemetery holding the graves of 1,700 Poles executed in the first years of Nazi occupation. The museum tells their story, with archival video footage complimented by exhumed exhibits and plenty of background info dealing with the siege and subsequent occupation of Warsaw.

Park Miniatur ul. Bracka 25, pl.miniaturymazowieckie.com Although the park consists of only eight 1:25 scale models of some of the most beautiful and important buildings from Warsaw’s past, the zł. 12 admission is certainly worth it. Brilliant details abound in this Lilliputian world, with helpful English explanations accompanying the models.

Pawiak ul. Dzielna 24/26. What was once a Tsarist prison assumed a doubly sinister function under the Nazis. Some 100,000 Polish political prisoners were held here, 37,000 of which were executed on-site. Split in two sections, cells are found on one side, while on the other the full story of the invasion and occupation.

Railway Museum ul. Towarowa 1, muzkol.pl Presented in scale model form, in here find hundreds of trains

detailing the development of the Polish rail network. Not interested? Then maybe the three model railway villages will stir childhood memories or how about learning about WARS – Polish rail’s buffet division? Outside, stroll around a remarkable collection of beasts outside. These include a 1942 German armored train – apparently the only one of its type surviving in Europe – not to mention the personal carriage of Bolesław Bierut (Poland’s post-war leader), the rusting carcass of a 60s train and interwar steam engines straight out of Thomas the Tank Engine.

The Royal Castle in Warsaw Pl. Zamkowy 4, zamek-krolewski.pl Meticulously restored after WWII, highlights inside include the lavishly restored 18th century royal apartments with 22 paintings

by Bernardo Bellotto, the Senators’ Chamber in which the Constitution of the Third of May was signed, the biggest collection of oriental rugs in Europe in the tin-roofed palace and two remarkable Rembrandt paintings.

Warsaw Rising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl Cope with the crowds to discover the definitive story of the 1944 Uprising. Exhibits range from a full-size replica of a Liberator plane, to a sewer beneath the cinema screen and a slice of bread preserved from 1944.

Wola Museum ul. Srebrna 12, mhw.pl An unexpectedly amazing museum that’s been turned around thanks to its ambitious, young staff. Once a dank, dusty space, the reinvention includes ‘the room of one object’, whose single exhibit changes each month. There’s the New Varsovians exhibition, dedicated to the young students who arrived to Warsaw in the 1860s and 70s, and the Wola Laboratory, a multimedia exhibition with a focus on the district. All this new wave gadgetry is to be augmented by real objects on the first floor, not to mention an archive of amateur film – the first such archive in Poland Zachęta National Art Gallery Pl. Małachowskiego 3, zacheta.art.pl Probably the most famous gallery in Poland, this Zachęta has a thrilling, and at times controversial repertoire that makes it a must for modern art buffs. Ongoing: Przemysław Matecki – Rough. Describing himself as an ‘easel painter’, this exhibition brings together recent paintings by Matecki, many drawn on impulse in short time frames.

CLASSIFIEDS

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Chodk iewicza

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Pure Heroine

Considered one of Poland’s eminent freedom fighters, the Insider looks at the story behind the revolutionary wonder woman Emilia Plater… BY STUART DOWELL

E

milia Plater (1806-1831), Poland’s swashbuckling heroine from the November Uprising against Tsarist Russia, would have been the perfect role model for Arya Stark from Game of Thrones or Katniss Everdeen from The Hunger Games. Born into a noble and patriotic family in Vilnius, her parents divorced when she was young and she was forced to grow up with her two boy cousins, with whom she rode horses, learned swordsmanship and went hunting.

When the uprising against Russian forces erupted in November 1830, after Polish officers in Warsaw rebelled against Russian plans to use them to suppress France’s July revolution, the 24-year-old

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Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2015

Plater, having already rejected a marriage proposal from a wealthy Russian engineer on patriotic grounds, immediately drew up plans to seize control of her town Dynenburg, in what is now Latvia, from the Russian garrison.

Together with her pal Maria Proszyńska, she cut her hair into a man’s style, stitched together a male uniform and armed herself with a pistol and a dagger. She then gathered around her several hundred riflemen, cavalrymen and scythe-bearing peasants, and after a rousing speech set off for Dyneburg. The group engaged Russian forces successfully in several spats along the way, but upon reaching their target, Plater decided not to attack due to the overwhelming forces facing them.

She went on to fight in several battles and was made captain of the 25th Polish-Lithuanian Infantry Regiment, the highest ranking woman at the time. After the uprising in Lithuania began to stall, Plater decided to head to Warsaw to continue the struggle for independence. However, soon after separating from the main forces, she became ill and died in Justaniów on 23 December 1831.

Controversially, it has been suggested that Plater never actually commanded any forces in battle, her commanding officer role being more honorary than real, and it’s even been suggested that she once fainted on the battlefield. Although the actual details of her life and death may never be known with much accuracy, she has become indelibly associated with patriotism and Poland’s struggle for freedom – hence you’ll find her name attached to schools and streets throughout the nation.

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